THE FLOWER GARDEN, OR MONTHLY CALENDAR OF PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS. BY MARTIN D Y L E , p AUTHOR OF "HINTS TO SMALL FARMERS," "PRACTICAL GARDENING," ETC. ETC. ETC. FIRST AMERICAN EDITION. ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE UNITED STATES, WITH NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS BY L. D. GALE, M. D., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY IN THE NEW-YORK COLLEGE OP PHARMACY; AND PROFESSOR OF MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. NEW-YORK : MOORE & PAYNE, CLINTON HALL. 1835. ENTERED, According to Act of Congress, in the year 1835, by MOORE & PAYNE, In the Clertfs Office of the District Court for the Southern District of the State of New-York. H. Ludwig, Printer. INDEX. PAGE A Acacia, rose, 112 Athea frutex, 160 American Cowslip, 103 Aquilegia canadensis, ib. Anemone, 30, 120 Andromeda, 111 Annuals, hardy, 72, 85, 95 Annuals, half-hardy, 85, 95 Annuals, tender, 82, 1 1 7, 143 April, monthly calendar of, 78 April, observations on, 81 August, monthly calendar of, 151 Auricula, 72, 120, 154, 166, 175 Azalea, 111,161 B Balsam, 148 Biennials, 86 Budding, a mode of propagating by inserting buds of one into a previous growth of another variety of the same family of plants, Bulbs, in blossom, 100, 125 Bulbous roots, cultivation of, 12 Bulbs, treatment of, 96, 97 Cactus, 160 Calceolarius, 161 Camellia, 53,54,55,56 Cape Crinum, 171 Camellia japonica, 18 Campanula, 74 Cereus speciosissimus, 160 Carnations, 74, 85, 95, 120, 137, " 153 ; 156,174 Cheiranthus, 108 Chrysanthemum, 75, 140, 149 Climbers, 101, 143, 171 Clematis, 110 Columbine, wild, 103 Compost, a mixture of earth and manure, suitable for the growth of vegetables. Coxcomb, 61,148 Conclusion, 179 Crocus, Crown Imperial, Cuttings, D PAGE 28 102 10 Dahlia, 73, 86, 96, 118, 155 Deciduous, falling off" early. December, observations on, 45 Directions, general, 9 Dog-tooth violet. 41, 44 Edgings, 167 Erythrina, 159 Escholtzia californica, 145 Evergreens, in blossom, 64, 87 Evergreens, transplanting of, 169 February, monthly calendar of, 57 February, observations on, 59 Ficoides, 106 Flowering shrubs, 19 Forced flowers for winter, 23 Fritillary, 41 Fuchsia, 111 Fuchsia microphylla, 161 G Garden Flowers in blossom, 63,76, 89, 100, 125, 142, 156 Geraniums, 126 Gladiolus cardinalis, 145 Gladiolus psittacinus, 146 Graftings, consist of the last two year's growths inserted into another variety of the same species, or family of plants. Greenhouse flowers in blossom, 64, " 77,89,101,125,142,156,170,177 Guernsey Lily, 170 H 24 Half-hardy plants, Herbaceous, not woody, Herbaceous plants, in blossom, 125, " 142,156,169,177 Hibiscus speciosus, 170 INDEX. PAGE Hyacinth, 25,174 Hot-beds, method of making, 70, " " 73,85 Hollyhocks, 144 Hybridizing, 106 Ice plant, 148 Introduction to English Edition, 5 Introduction to Amer. Edition, 7 Iris, 61,62 Ixia, 146 J January, observations on, 51 Japan Rose, 18 Jasmine, 140 Jonquils, 22 June, monthly calendar of, 115 July, monthly calendar of, 135 K Kalmia, 111 L Larkspur, 144 Layering, 76 Leaf manure, 19 Lily of the valley, 102 Liriodendron, 132 Loam, a natural soil consisting of a mixture of sand, clay, and oxide of iron. Lychnis, 132 M Mallow, scarlet, 170 March, monthly calendar of, f7 March, observations on, 69 Magnolia, 131 Marvel of Peru, 18,107 May, monthly calendar of, 91 May, observations on, 93 Mignonette, 130, 140 Myrtle, 110,150 Narcissus, 22, 38 Nervium splendens, 147 November, monthly calendar of, 15 November, observations on, 17 O October, monthly calendar of, 1 72 October, observations on, 173 Offset, a sprout, a shoot, Passion Flower, Pansie Violet, Peonies, PAGE Perennials, 72, 86 Peruvian Squill, 102 Pinks, 119,128,137 Plan of a Flower Garden, 50 Polyanthus, 84, 120 Poppy, 129 Potentilla, 146 Pruning, 65 Pyramidal Saxifrage, 105 R Ranunculus, 32,73,120 Rockets, 104 Rockwork, 42 Routine work, 64, 77, 89, 1 14, 133, " 171,178 Rhododendron, 111 Roses, 123, 130, 140 Rose, Acacia, 112 Rock Rose, 131 S Seeds, sowing of, 154 Seeds, saving of, 167,176 Sensitive Plant, 147 September, monthly calendar of, 163 Shrubbery, 169,176 Slipping, 169 Snowdrop, 29 Shrubs in blossom, 64, 77, 89, 101 125,143,156,170,177 Squill, Peruvian, 102 Stapelia, 146 Stoves, 19 Streptocarpus, 161 Stock Gilliflower, 107 T Tender Bulbs, 24 Tender Shrubs, 24 Tiger Flower, 126 Tiger Lily, 158 Top-dressing, covering the sur- face of the ground with ma- nure or a compost. Tree Peony, 113 Trellis-work, frame-work for sup- porting vines. Tulips, 35. 73. 97. 163 Tuberose, 86. 159 W Wallflower, 108 Wisteria, 113 Weeding, 133 109 Y 106 Yucca gloriosa, 162 105 Yucca glaucescern, 162 INTRODUCTION TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. " A blessing upon the fragrance of sweet flowers ! and a thousand blessings on the power that gifted their leaves with such a dowry." IN a compendious manual of this nature, it is not to be expected that all the varieties of flowers can possibly be introduced in detail ; it must be limited to those which are most popular, and most generally cultivated even they must be treated of, briefly. It at first occurred to me, that it might be well to give a double column in the Calendar, as in my former treatise on vegetables, distinguishing the least necessary from the most essen- tial. But with respect to Flowers, the second column shall be abandoned, and those which it is least desira- ble to cultivate shall be omitted, as all could not come within the compass of this work ; and should my fair readers take a peculiar interest in any particular plant or flower which is not mentioned here, upon referring to some of the approved authorities on gardening, they cannot fail to acquire the information they seek for. My limits preclude minute statement ; but I consider that I am addressing those whose love of the Flower 1* <5 INTRODUCTION. Garden ensures a pretty general knowledge of its management. I cannot create a florist by a stroke of my pen, any more than I can make a neat gardener in a summary way, out of a common laborer, who never had a rake in his hand. That the present hints should be presented in Calen- dar form, appears advisable, to avoid confusion, and to bring the respective flowers, and their culture, under immediate consideration, at the precise time they ought to meet attention ; and as in the Kitchen Garden I made that form to commence with the month of November, so likewise may the Floral year, with great propriety, be considered to begin with the same month, the culture of its earliest products being then to be attended to, and preparation made for their appear- ance in the following spring. M. D. INTRODUCTION TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. THE cultivation of flowers is a delightful and engag- ing employment, adapted to almost every age and sta- tion. The high and the low, the rich and the poor, the youthful and the aged, are alike susceptible of a taste for this delightful amusement. For those who have retired from the busy scenes of life, it is a grand sub- stitute for the engrossing occupations of business. The exercise required will be a sure passport to, and the preservation of, the health, both of body and mind. To young ladies it is peculiarly appropriate, teaching them to cultivate neatness and correctness of taste, and at the same time is one of the surest, safest, and most agreeable remedies for ennui, a malady so frequently met with in refined society. The present work we think has some points of excellence to recommend it. Its plan is exceedingly simple ; being arranged in the calendar form, all the most common plants of the hot-house, as well as others that blossom during the month, can be turned to at once. The directions are couched in the simplest language, intelligible to all classes of readers. In general, there- fore, to commence the cultivation of flowers, one has need only to select from the directions given in the 8 INTRODUCTION. / book, such plants as it may be convenient to cultivate, and immediately set about the work. Most of those who cultivate flowers, have not the convenience of a hot-house, but derive nearly the same advantages from the use of the parlor, which is thus most tastefully ornamented by the works of nature, assisted by the hand of art. During those seasons of the year, in which there are no frosts, the plants thrive much better in the open air, and all those which are unable to resist the frosts, must be brought into the house during the cold nights of spring and autumn, and removed to the open air during pleasant days. In large cities, few have ground enough to afford a garden of any convenient extent ; citizens are obliged, consequently, to place their flower-pots, during the warm season, in the yard, which is often confined to the space of ten or twenty feet square. Even those who have a garden, do not always have it in their power to select the proper situations. It should, however, be as nearly level as possible, to prevent the rains from washing away the soil. It should be freely exposed to the sun, all day if possible, or otherwise as much of it as practicable, and defended from northerly and west- erly winds. GENERAL DIRECTIONS. PLANTS are annual when they spring up, flower, bear fruit, and die the same year ; biennial, when they spring up one summer, bear fruit and die the next ; and perennial, when they continue many, or more than two years. The soil should be a deep loam ; it must be kept rich, and often stirred. It ought to be supplied with manure every year ; this may consist of a compost made up of decayed leaves and vegetables, yard manure, ashes, and common earth or loam. If this be inconve- nient to procure, we may substitute four parts of common garden earth, a little wood ashes, say half a part, and about one part of yard manure. The kinds of manure and proportions mentioned, it must be recollected, are those which are considered the best, though plants will grow and look tolerable well, in common garden earth, without any additional materials. The time for sowing annual, biennial, or perennial flower seeds, is in the months of April and May, ac- cording to the forwardness of the season. The smaller seeds may be covered half an inch deep in moist earth ; those as large as a pea, to the depth of an inch, or per- haps a little more. Seeds of very delicate plants should be planted in flower-pots, and the earth kept moderately moist, by pouring water into the pan which contains the flower-pot. The earth contained in the flower-pots should be rich, and sifted through a coarse sieve made for the purpose. Transplanting of annual plants, should be performed in June, that of biennials and perennials, in September, or early in October. We should always take up as much 10 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. earth adhering to the roots as convenient. This should be done when the ground is moist, and in a cloudy day, at evening, or just before a shower. This care becomes more necessary, partly from the fact, that a plant, when removed from the soil in which it was reared, generally loses a portion of its roots, and partly from the difference between the original and new soil. It is well in all cases to shade the plant, for a few days, from the mid- day sun. The earth should be slightly pressed down about the roots, so that they may readily imbibe moisture therefrom. If the plant is to be transferred to a pot, it is generally recommended to place a piece of earthenware over the aperture in the bottom, that the superabundant water may drain off, lest remaining, it should injure, and perhaps destroy the plant. The pots should be nearly filled with rich earth, the plant placed in the centre, and the earth moderately pressed in contact with the roots. Cultivation. Plants raised from the seed are gene- rally sown in greater abundance than the ground can support, and consequently require to be thinned out while they are small : for if left too near each other, they become weakly and slender ; such should be picked out as the plants increase in size, until they stand at a proper distance, so that the air may circulate freely among them, and the sun may have free access to the plant, and as much as practicable to the earth in which it is nourished. All florists and gardeners, recommend to keep the earth loose about the plants ; this should be done in dry weather ; the earth about them may be kept moist for a long time, by covering it with old hay or straw. Weeds of every description should be carefully re- moved as soon as they appear, and should never be allowed to flower in the garden, nor about it, and all decayed plants should be removed as soon as possible. Cuttings are pieces cut from trees, shrubs, or plants of the last year's growth, and should generally retain a GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 11 small piece of the growth immediately preceding the last, or ripened wood. They should be taken when the sap is active, and about six joints or buds are sufficient. Cut them with a sharp knife, transversely, and monthly, near a bud or joint of previous growth, or between the two last. Set them in rich ground, in a shady place, leaving two or three joints or buds above the surface. If the weather be dry, water them, and place old hay about them, to keep the earth moist. If the cutting is to be placed in a flower-pot, the vessel should be placed in the earth, in a shady place, and the cutting covered with an inverted glass for a short time, to preserve a moist atmosphere about it. If they send out roots, they will also soon send out branches, otherwise they die. The month of April in our climate is peculiarly suitable for propagating by cuttings. Some plants are very tenacious of life, and are easily multiplied by cuttings ; others again are not at all adapted to this mode. Many species of willow, currant, sempervivum, (house-leek,) horseradish, &c., belong to the. former. Layers are branches left on the parent plant or shrub, and bent down and fastened several inches below the surface of the ground. A flat stone placed on the earth, immediately above the layer, is useful to keep the earth cool and to retain the moisture. When they have taken sufficient root, sever them from the parent plant or shrub, and at any subsequent time they may be transplanted. As to the cultivation of herbaceous plants and shrubs in pots, a few directions may be necessary. The earth should be kept moderately moist : the mould or earth on the top should be dry before additional water be given ; and as the plants placed in a window are in- ' clined towards the light, the pots should frequently be turned around, to prevent the plants from growing crooked or inclined. If the plants are to stand in pots for many years in succession, the earth should be taken out in October, and the sides and bottom shaved off 12 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. with a sharp knife to the depth of an inch, more or less, according to the size, and then replaced, and the empty part filled with rich, moist, and finely pulverized earth. Two-thirds of good rich earth, and one-third of well rotted yard manure, well mixed, make a good compost for most plants, except for bulbous roots, which require some sand. Herbaceous plants, left in our gardens, in general require some slight covering during the severity of our northern winters. For this purpose they may be covered with old hay or straw, and may be removed the first of April, or a little before if the season is more than usually forward, BULBOUS ROOTS. No class of plants is, perhaps, more interesting than this ; still, u mere outline of the mode of cultivation must suffice. They generally require a southern exposure, shel- tered as much as possible from the northerly and west- erly winds. The proper season for transplanting most bulbous roots, is in August, September, and October. Delicate and tender bulbs should be kept in dry sand until April, and then planted in pots or open grounds, and in all cases protected from frost. Tulips and Hya- cinths it is recommended to take up and dry them in the air, and replant annually. Hyacinths, Polyanthus, Narcissus, and Jonquils, make a beautiful appearance during the winter, in the par- lor. Bulbs intended to bloom in this season, should be put in pots in October, or November, and left out until frost commences, and then transferred to a warm room. They will need, occasionally, a little water, until they begin to grow, when they should have both air and sun, and a plenty of water from the saucers or pans, beneath them. Those bulbs, as Hyacinths, which are designed to flower in glasses should be placed in them GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 13 in the latter part of November, having first filled the glasses with rain-water, so that the bulb may come in contact with it ; then place them in a dark place, for a few days, to promote the shooting of the roots, after which expose them freely to the sun, change the water as often as it becomes foul, and never let it approach the freezing point. Bulbous roots, growing in pots, should be frequently turned round, lest they grow in an inclined position, from their being attracted towards the light ; the earth on the top should be suffered to dry before the next watering ; when the plants have done growing, give them little or no water. If it be so managed the present year, as not to have a flower-bud formed in miniature, there will be no flower in the next. If the leaves be well grown, and the plant properly exposed to the air and sun, then the sap will be duly prepared, and an embryo-flower will be formed in the bulb. All buds, in certain seasons of the year, are dormant : this state commences when the foliage begins to decay, after, blooming : then the supply of water should be lessened, and in a short time cease altogether, until the season of germination returns. The bulbs in the mean- time may be kept in the pots, in a dry shady place, and in the same temperature in which they are most suc- cessfully cultivated. Some florists recommend to take the bulbs out of the pots after the decay of the foliage, and repot them in fresh earth a week or two before the period of reger- minating, keeping them moderately moist by watering. The earth should be kept loose at top, and watered with rain or river water. The proper time to take up bulbous roots is in about a month after blooming, at which time the foliage has a yellowish decayed appearance. Cut off the stem and foliage within an inch of the bulb, leaving the fibrous roots attached to it. After being air-dried, they may be placed in paper or dry sand until replanted. 14 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. It must be remembered that the remarks in the test of the following pages, with regard to plants that will stand the cold of winter, apply to the winters of Ireland and England, and not to those of the United States generally. The climate of England and Ireland is milder and more moist than that of this country our winters are colder and our summers warmer. Such extremes of heat and cold, of dryness and moisture, therefore, as our climate is subject to, renders it a very trying one to cultivated exotics, many of which will not thrive well unless well attended to. In the English edition it is taken as granted, that every one who would cultivate a flower garden, has a " pretty general knowledge of its management ;" and, consequently, in preparing the American edition for the press, I have been obliged to add much matter, in the form of explanations and directions, in order to render it intelligible to such as have to learn both the terms used by florists, and the practice of cultivating plants at the same time. MONTHLY CALENDAR. NOVEMBER. BULBOUS ROOTS TO BE PLANTED. HYACINTH. CROCUS. SNOWDROP. ANEMONE, SINGLE AND DOUBLE. RANUNCULUS. TULIP. NARCISSUS. JONQUIL. FRITILLARY. CROWN IMPERIAL. OBSERVATIONS FOR NOVEMBER. A CERTAIN portion of Anemone and Ranunculus roots, if planted at this time, and protected from frost, will blossom much stronger and earlier, and afford a more abundant increase, than those planted in the spring. DAHLIA. When the first light frost puts a stop to the bloom of the Dahlia, let the roots be taken up, and laid by the heels, in rows carefully separated, under a cover- ing of four or six inches above their crowns, in a sunny part of the garden ; this will, in general, be found sufficient in this climate* to protect them till spring ; but should circumstances require, as in the instance of severe frost, an additional covering may be given. They may also be thus protected where they grow ; either method will be attended with less loss and trouble, than the usual practice of stowing .them in cellars or in sheds. * This remark will not apply to the northern parts of the United 2* 18 ' NOVEMBER. THE MARVEL OF PERU, A charming rich perennial flower, (one of those old-fashioned plants which the rage of novelty has deserted for others much inferior) if treated like the Dahlia, by having the roots taken up and transplanted at the same time with it, will flower in far greater perfection, than when cultivated as annuals are in the manner usually practised. The Camellia Japonica, or Japan Rose : that charming flower of modern introduction, from Im- perial China and Japan the splendid ornament of our green-houses in the spring months, that outrivals all its competitors for beauty of foliage, symmetry of form, and variety of color ; wanting no quality but perfume, to render it the most perfect emblem of Flora herself, may now, under proper manage- ment, afford us early specimens of its beauties, by being brought forward in a warmer situation than ordinary. [See the drawing at the commencement of this work.] GREEN HOUSE. The Chrysanthemum Indicum forms now the prin- cipal attraction of the green-houses. They require at all times an abundant supply of water, and great attention to pick off the decaying leaves ; indeed, this is indispensable at all seasons under any circumstances, but particularly when crowded in a confined space ; ventilation also must be strictly attended to, whenever the thermometer stands above 32. NOVEMBER. 19 STOVES. When a soft and sunny day occurs, ventilation should also be given to the stoves, and the tempera- ture of the air should be maintained between the range of 55 and 65 ; all plants, at some season, require a state of repose ; to urge them by artificial excitement, to premature growth, at a period when light is deficient, and when fresh air is necessarily excluded, must weaken their powers, and derange their habits to a degree that proves pernicious, even to the most hardy. FLOWERING SHRUBS AND HERBACEOUS PLANTS May now be planted in light and dry soils if moist or cold, the planting should be deferred till spring ; which, after all that has been said or writ- ten on the subject, is the best season also for planting Evergreens if planted in the winter months, they are so rocked by our tempestuous westerly winds, as to have but little chance of taking root. LEAF MANURE. As the leaves fall, let them be raked into heaps, throughout the plantations ; they will form, when rotted, a most valuable ingredient in all composts ; without a preparation of a suitable description, it is 20 NOVEMBER. impossible to cultivate very fine flowers ; that to be preferred for Hyacinths, is as follows : COMPOST FOR HYACINTHS. One-fourth of surface sod, taken about two or three inches thick, well turned, and broken frequently until all the vegetable portion is reduced to perfect mould ; one-fourth, of leaves in a similar state ; one-fourth of cow manure, well rotted; one-fourth of fine clean pit or river sand, (sand of decomposed granite should be avoided, as it becomes of a clayey quality but where turf-mould can be procured, it should form a component and equal part, one-fifth of each.) It may be procured from the road-side, or from the side of a hill, where water has not lodged. A very stimu- lative manure is said to be used by the Dutch, and is thought to increase the brightness of the colors ; but it is considered by men of experience, that all manures reduced to mould, especially cow manure, are quite as good as any that can be used. The more stimulative, however, may be of advantage in top dressing. FORMATION OF BEDS FOR HYACINTHS. The size of the beds must be regulated according to circumstances. From three and a half to four feet, is the most convenient width for weeding and dressing without difficulty, from the alleys. They should be excavated to the depth of about two feet ; and when finished, should rise at least nine inches above the NOVEMBER. 21 ground level. They are to be brought to this, by placing cow manure, well rotted, and firmly pressed at the bottom of the excavation, to the depth of four inches^ and upon this, eighteen or twenty inches of the foregoing compost ; in which, (sunk two inches from its surface,) the roots are to be planted at nine inches apart, every way laying a little fine sand under and around the sides of each root ; and then over the w r hole, in rounded form, six or eight inches of peat, or of fine sandy mould. The requisites, in a choice of situation for Hya- cinth beds, should be good shelter, and at the same time, that the beds should be so circumstanced, as to continue perfectly dry at bottom : moisture lodging about its roots is destruction to a Hyacinth. This preparation and compost will answer for other flower roots, with the following changes as to the propor- tions of the ingredients. COMPOST FOR TULIPS. Two parts (say two barrows) of sod mould ; one ditto, cow manure ; one ditto, rotted leaves ; adding, if the sod mould be in itself of a clayey nature, one barrow of fine sand. Let the roots be planted in rows nine inches asunder, six inches apart in the row, and four inches deep ; the largest roots in the centre of the bed. It is of advantage to Tulips, in order to preserve the colors clear and distinct, to plant them in alternate years in a strong, and in a light compost. 22 NOVEMBER. COMPOST FOR RANUNCULUS. This same compost will answer remarkably well, but that it may be advisable to place the roots on a stratum, one inch deep, of unmanured rotted sod, or other very good fresh earth. Plant in rows, nine inches apart, and place the roots at four inches distant in the rows, and two inches deep. COMPOST FOR ANEMONES. Precisely the same compost may be used, omitting the stratum of rotted sod, and the same depth and distances accurately observed as with the Ranuncu- lus ; the spring crop, planted in March, generally succeeds that of November, closely. NARCISSUS. May be planted in good loamy soil, dug two spades deep, and mixed with about one-eighth of hot-bed manure, well rotted. They should be planted in rows, at nine inch intervals ; six inches apart in the row, and six inches deep. DOUBLE JONQUILS. Should be treated in the same manner as the Nar- cissus, in every particular. In one point, however, NOVEMBER. 23 a change becomes necessary, to correct a defect of soil, by which the Jonquil is often rendered worth- less, and for which there is no practical remedy ; but against which a preventive is recommended that has been found effectual. The Jonquil is frequently known to run, what is called carrot-rooted, and where the kind of soil that leads to this, prevails, it has been corrected by a plentiful admixture of old rotten tan, also by putting it round the roots in the spade cut, in which they are planted, and by covering them at least six inches deep with the tan ; this method has been found very advantageous, particularly in dry and worn-out gar- den beds and obviously upon the following princi- ple : The Jonquil is a native of moist meadow land, and rotted tan being a cool, friable substance, reten- tive of moisture, supplies its natural wants ; nor is it unlikely, that the carrotty elongation of the root, in an unfavorable situation, is for the purpose of reaching its proper medium of temperature and moisture which the six-inch covering of tan supplies, so as not to impede the upward growth. For all other bulbs before mentioned, a good and well-cultivated garden soil will be sufficient ; but the better treatment they receive, the more creditable appearance will they make. FORCED FLOWERS FOR WINTER. Where it is desirable to have a supply of those, the roses best suited are the Provence, the Moss, and Quatre Saisons Rouge. The Persian Lilac, and Persian Cyclamene, are also adapted to this 24 NOVEMBER. purpose. Narcissus, Jonquils, Hyacinths, and Per- sian Iris, may now be brought into the stove or forcing frame. The bulbs may be forced in earth, water, or wet moss. HALF HARDY PLANTS, OUT OF DOORS. The protection of these must, in this month, be carefully attended to. Cover the crowns of the Herbaceous with some light dry substance, as leaves, turf-mould, or sand. TENDER BULBS. Ixias and African Gladiolus may also be treated in the same manner as the Herbaceous plants. TENDER SHRUBS, TRAINED TO WALLS. Let these be protected by mats, boughs of ever- green, thatch of fern or straw ; but the most par- ticular attention should be paid to the protection of the neck or collet of the shrub, which is that part where the root and stem unite ; and which is the part most liable to injury, and to protect which from the severity of the winter is of the greatest importance. NOVEMBER. 25 Description of the several Flowers mentioned in this month. HYACINTH. " Hyacinths of purest virgin white, Low bent and blushing inward ." The Hyacinth is a native of the desert, but has been cultivated for many centuries in Holland with great success. The Dutch have always been re- markable for the improvement of their bulbs ; originally, however, all double flowers were lightly thought of, till at length one happened to make its appearance, which when cultivated brought a great price. This circumstance established the double kinds, and brought them into universal estimation. One of the oldest, named " The King of Great Bri- tain," is said to have been sold for a sum, which is as incredible as it would be imprudent to repeat ; but it is certain that the Dutch florists converted their judicious culture of bulbs to great profit, and even to stock jobbing speculations, destructive to many persons who engaged deeply in them. Haer- lem was the great focus of bulbous cultivation, where the soil is happily gifted by nature with the requisites for Hyacinth culture. The surface con- sists of light vegetable mould, formed by the decom- position of leaves and other vegetable matter mixed with sand, and under this a bed of pure sand, about a foot deep, is to be met with, which latter acts as a drain to free the upper surface from the redundant moisture with which the heavy rains and melted snows would otherwise inundate it in winter, to the 3 26 NOVEMBER. destruction of the roots at that period. This circum- stance gave rise to the opinion, that the superiority of Haerlem, in respect to the culture of this flower, depended upon the nature of its soil. Amateur florists from other countries have been induced to examine into this, and the result has been a successful imitation of the Haerlem soil, by the compost heretofore recommended. By paying a minute attention to the preparation and annual removal of this compost, and to the treat- ment of the bulbs, there is no reason why these coun- tries should not produce as good Hyacinths from seed and offsets as any other ; but where the roots can be had every year from Holland, on such mode- rate terms as they now can, it is scarcely worth the trouble to propagate them at home ; certainly not, as to sowing the seeds the great pains and patience attendant on this practice, and the slight remunera- tion of half-a-dozen good flowers out of a thousand raised, which is considered a fortunate hit, should determine us to leave it in the hands of the perse- vering Dutchman. The Propagation by Offsets. May be tried, and is as follows : Take the offsets from the bulbs in September, plant in October, be- tween two and three inches deep, in rows on a rounded bed, raised above the ground-level seven or eight inches ; let the soil be sandy or mixed with sand ; let it be turned eighteen or twenty inches deep, and remarkably well pulverized ; protect the bed from severe frost ; keep the surface stirred and clean. In the fourth year you will have bulbs fit to be removed to the flowering bed formed of the approved compost. NOVEMBER. 27 It is particularly recommended by the Dutch florists to cut down the flower-stalk when out of flower, but not to remove the leaves when green, nor until they have gradually died away ; by these means the bulbs will be stronger for the next year's blossom. Great care must be taken to protect the beds from heavy rains, so as to take up the bulbs dry in June ; they should be preserved in sand, sepa- rately, till replanted in October or November. The varieties of this beautiful flower are too numerous to insert, and the names given to them, too arbitrary and absurd to introduce. The moderate but tasteful florist, may be content with raising good flowers of red, white, blue, and yellow ; and those who wish to become judges of the perfection of the flower, must recognise in it the following particulars, and not rest satisfied till they are generally procured. A FINE DOUBLE HYACINTH. Should be grown with such care as to exhibit a strong, healthy, tall, and straight stem ; half its length, at least, close covered with full and hori- zontal bells, forming a compact cone, terminated at top by one upright bell ; whatever may be the color, it must be clear and bright, and agreeably diversified to the eye. Flowers of this description are worthy the pains of cultivation. 1 shall close this account of the Hyacinth with a remark, not of my own, but which a friend, who has studied the Pantheon, has helped me to ; it is this : That this flower, notwith- standing its name, is not that into which a friend of Apollo, who bore the same name, was metamor- 28 NOVEMBER. phosed. It seems that Apollo and his friend, as I am informed, were playing a game of quoits, or some such thing, when that which was flung by the powerful arm of his godship, hit poor Hyacinth a iatal blow on the scull, which it baffled the god's skill to remedy ; he could not heal the wound, nor with all his divinity recall him to life, but he had the power, it seems, of turning him into a mighty pretty Jlower ; and surely that must have been a great gratification to the parties to the dead man as well as to his surviving godship ; but, unluckily, the honor conferred, is disputed by another flower, called the Martegan Lily ; now if the Lily was entitled to that high distinction, how has it contrived to lose the name it acquired by the metamorphosis ? That is a knotty point, which my classical friend could not solve for me, no more than he could, account for the heathen name of Hyacinth becoming a Christian* name in the county of Galway. CROCUS. " Fair handed Spring unbosoms ev'ry grace, Throws out the Snowdrop and the Crocus first" The Crocus is a valuable ornament of the flower garden in the early spring, when its rich and glow- ing blossoms make a display either in entire beds, in groups, or edgings. The Yellow Crocus is the most general ; there are many varieties, however, blue and white, purple and striped, all easily culti- vated, and all worthy of being cultivated. The * As in the respectable families of Daly, Fallen, &c. &c. NOVEMBER. 29 Autumn Crocus, also the Saffron-bearing, and the Colchicum, are ornamental, the last kind least so of any. A good Crocus should be bright in its color, and, when variegated, distinctly marked. It is to be propagated by seed when new kinds are sought for ; and to be increased by offsets, which will blossom the ensuing year ; they multiply rapidly ; a sandy loam suits them best, and if protected from mice, their greatest enemy, they may remain in the ground for three years ; but if taken up every year when the leaves decay, they may be increased with greater facility. October is the best season for replanting. SNOWDROP. . "The Snowdrop, who, in habit white and plain, Comes on, the herald of fair Flora's train." CHURCHILL. The Snowdrop is our earliest flower, often ap- pearing while the snow is on the ground, a hardy bulb requiring no particular culture ; it is directed that the bulbs should be taken up every third year, and replanted in groups of twenty, at an inch and a half asunder, and two inches deep ; but it is found by experience, that they may remain in the ground for seven years with good effect. The great Snow- drop is similar, but double the size ; the common kind, however, is preferable, as blossoming much earlier, sometimes even in January. The larger sort must have more room, and should be planted five inches asunder, at least, and four or five inches deep. 3* 30 NOVEMBER. ANEMONE OR WIND FLOWER. "Anemones, Auriculas enriched With shining meal o'er all their velvet leaves." The month of November is mentioned as the middle month for planting the Anemone, which may bo done in October, even in September, and also in December, to secure successions of bloom from the ensuing spring, each of which will last nearly a month, commencing in that of April. But for a full and prosperous flower, March is the safest time for planting, to avoid the danger of the winter frosts; if -planted in the dead season of December and January, they are apt to rot in the ground if the weather be not unusually mild ; planted in March, they bloom well ; but in April, the warmth of the season hurries them too rapidly, or they are scorched off by the summer heat. The same is true of the Ranunculus. The flower beds should be placed uppermost, and the roots planted ten inches apart, and two inches deep, in beds of the same compost used for the Ranunculus, which in March and April, if the weather be dry, should be frequently watered, either in the evening or in the morning early. I speak here of the Double Anemone, whose varieties are numerous, and whose best roots are procured from Holland or France. I have known the finest sorts to have come from the neighborhood of Bourdeaux. The double kinds are, all of them, a most desirable acquisition to the flower garden. A perfect Anemone should have its flower-stem from eight to nine inches in height, and of propor- tionate strength, its blossom at least two inches NOVEMBER. 31 broad, its guard-leaves large, rounded, horizontal, and turning a little upwards, forming thereby a cup, filled in richly, with long fine petals, regularly piled one over the other, not crowded confusedly, whose colours, as well as those of the exterior leaves, should be bright and distinctly marked in variegated flowers ; and, as it were, should be too brilliant for the eye to rest on, in those that are of a single color, which is termed self-colored ; many of those that are semi-double, or even single, are highly prized ; and the commonest kinds, if sown in masses, make a vivid appearance, at a season, when any change from the dreariness of winter, is most gratifying. When the leaves are faded, the roots should be spread in a dry and safe place, and occasionally turned to prevent their moulding, which from their succulency they are very liable to, and from which they never recover. In about three weeks, which is the fittest period, the largest offsets should be sep- arated and preserved for planting ; by these means, the wounds both in those and in the parent root will have time to heal. In propagating by seed there is some nicety to be observed : it is, of course, to be saved from single flowers, and few double ones are to be expected from the sowing. A few very good ones, however, may be produced by taking the seeds from single flowers, of brilliant hue, having the greatest number of petals. The seed should be gathered into a paper bag, each day, as the seed vessel begins to open, otherwise it will be carried off by the wind. The roots thus produced, must be nursed till the third year, when they may go into the beds ; they will blossom the second year, when they may be marked and in part selected ; all this trouble will be amply repaid by a few good flowers, and the remainder will embellish the borders by the NOVEMBER. brilliancy of their colors, if not by the perfection of their flowers, RANUNCULUS. " And full Ranunculus of glowing red." Miller enumerates seventeen species, with terrible long Latin characteristic names, of which, of course, I could not explain the significations to my reader, for a reason which I have already made known. These are almost all well known in the old English gardens. The five first species, which this celebra- ted man names, thrive exceedingly well in shady borders, and require no other culture than to have their roots taken up every second year when the leaves decay, lest by growing too large they should rot each other. Many of the other sorts were originally brought from Turkey, and were once in great esteem in England, but the Asiatic or the Persian, and the African or Turbaned, are the two kinds best worth cultivating ; of the former, the varieties are infinite no two flowers of those grown from seed being precisely alike ; they require very deep soil, as has been mentioned in the observations for this month. Of the African or Turbaned, there are two strongly-marked varieties, the scarlet and jon- quil colored, with two intermediate varieties, which are striped. The roots should be taken up when the stems decay, and preserved dry to be replanted in succession from October to March ; both the Asiatic and African should be planted at the same season ; the African is the hardiest. When they appear above ground, they should have a top dress- NOVEMBER. ing, of about one inch thick, ;of well rotted cow manure, laid in between the rows to preserve the roots ; they should be treated in every respect like the Anemone, but not planted so deep the crown should be but an inch and a half beneath the surface. They are propagated by offsets, by dividing the tu- bers, and by seed. The strongest offsets attain perfection in the season of their formation, and may be planted in a few months after they are removed. If the offsets be not planted during the month of October, it will be best to defer the planting until the beginning of February ; if there should be a hard frost, you should cover the beds with hoops and mats, or with an awning supported a little above them, especially in spring when the flower-buds appear ; for if these be exposed to much frost, or even severe wind, they will not open fairly. To divide the tubers, use a sharp knife, and make as many portions as there are protuberances from the crown. To propagate the flower by seed will require minute attention. The single flower, of the African or Turbaned kind, is not to be had, therefore the seed must be saved from the best colored semi- double flowers. The beds should be examined twice a day for this purpose, at the time that the seed begins to separate from the axis of the flowers ; it must then be preserved dry in paper bags, and sown in boxes in October or January, and must not have more than one-tenth of an inch of cover ; it must be struck under glass, but with great care to exclude too hot a sun : when fairly up, the plants must have air, and gradually be removed to more open expo- sure where they may have full sun ; and whenever the weather is mild, the glasses should be entirely opened, otherwise the plants will be drawn and 34 NOVEMBER. weakly. The small roots which are formed may be paired off the surface, so as not to injure the fibres ; sifted and floated in water, to get rid of the earth ; dried, and planted in October, when, if well attended to, many flowers may be expected in the following season ; a light covering of tan should be given to the beds, in all cases, to prevent the fine earth from being disturbed in watering. The ma- nure above mentioned, also answers for this pur- pose. The Ranunculus delights in a rich, light, and sandy soil ; and whenever dung is mixed with the earth instead of the compost already recommended, it should be very rotten, and well mixed at least six months before it is used, and frequently stirred and turned. Miller is qf opinion that it is unadvisable to sift or screen the earth too much, observing merely, that the clods, in digging up the beds, should be carefully broken as in the ordinary operation of garden work ; for if the soil be too fine, it is apt to bind together in a solid lump after the winter rains, and, consequently, to prevent the fibres from extend- ing themselves freely. The Scarlet Turbaned flower, which is very hardy and most brilliant, if planted at the same time with the Tulip, will bloom contemporaneously with it. A fine Ranunculus should have a large well-pro- portioned blossom, of six inches in circumference, supported on a stem from eight to ten inches in height ; its numerous leaves should naturally dimi- nish in size from the outer circle toward the centre of the flower, forming a full and close crown of petals, all round-edged and of brilliant color, whether self-colored or mixed ; the shape of this admired flower is as attractive as its hues, and on an ex- tensive scale of plantation, is, perhaps, the most NOVEMBER. 35 gratifying object in the flower garden or pleasure ground. The Ranunculus requires frequent watering in small quantities between the rows, but not on the flowers. By sowing seeds every year you will not only increase your stock of roots, but also raise new varie- ties, which may be considerably improved by chang- ing the seed into fresh ground, for if the same seed be continually sown in the same garden, it will degenerate. This is a general law in al) plants. As spring advances, the plants should be exposed to the influence of the open air, first near the shelter of a wall, but in April place them in a more shady sit- uation, according to the warmth of the season, and where they may have only the morning sun. TULIP.* " Then comes the Tulip race, whose beauty plays Her idle freaks." This month is considered, both by private and public florists, to be the best for planting the bulbs of Tulips ; if earlier, they may meet some harsh weather in February and March to interfere with their future bloom ; if later, they blossom more weak- ly, and many of the roots decay if kept over ground any longer. The soil best suited to these plants is very sjmilar to that which is recommended for the Ranunculus. Perhaps the best is that supplied from a light sandy pasture with the sod rotted amongst it, and a fourth part sea sand : lay this mixture, or * Tulip is a Turkish name, signifying a cup. -36 NOVEMBER. any other fit compost, ten or twelve inches deep, and plant the bulbs at the depth of four or five inches, and let the offsets be planted pretty thickly in beds by themselves. When they come up in spring, stir up the surface earth gently, and clear off weeds, and as the buds appear, guard them as has been directed for the Ranunculus. When in flower, the finer sorts should be protected from sun, rain, and wind, and the loftier kinds secured by tyings of green worsted to horizontal caps painted green, running along the back of each, and made tight to stakes at the corner of the beds. When the flowers are decayed, and the seed vessels beginning to swell, break them off at the top of the stalks, else the roots will be weakened. A good Tulip should be of a bright color at the bottom of the cup, either white or yellow. The cup ought to be full and round, and rather wider at the top than below. The leaves or petals should be six in number, (three within and three without, the former larger than the latter,) rounded on the upper , and broken into distinct and brilliant streaks of *, the central streak of each leaf feathering to its edges, in clear and well-defined points, and this hand- some cup should be supported by a stem from twenty to thirty inches in height, and of sufficient substance to preserve its upright position. This flower cannot be too rich in its coloring, provided there be no mixture or confusion, and that the bottom of the cup always be of pure white or yellow, free from the encroachment of any other color: when out of flower, the seed-cup should be cut off, to swell and strengthen the bulb. When the leaves are withered, the bulbs should be taken up with the stems; and this should be done every year, or they will degene- rate. It is good also to replant them in fresh soil, NOVEMBER. 37 choosing a day without sun for taking them up. They should be suffered to dry on a boarded floor in an airy place ; when perfectly dry, the fibres should be rubbed off the stems, and separated from the bulbs, which should be laid by, distinctly and safely, the offsets being also taken off until the season for planting them in the compost prepared for them, as recommended in page 23. SPECIES OF TULIPS. There are forty-one varieties named by Miller, but they are all resolvable into early and late flow- ering ; of the former sort, the Van Thols are chiefly used ; in order to flower in April, they should be planted in September, and in pots or boxes if to embellish the drawing-room or green-house. The Me are divided into Baguets, By-blowers, and Bi- zarres. The Baguets are tall, their cups correctly shaped, with white bottoms, broken into fine brown, all from the same breeder. By-blowers have cups with white bottoms, broken into a variety of colors, from different breeders, and are much variegated and broken. Those flowers denominated breeders are from seed, and are self or single colored, with a white or yellow bottom. They are very uncertain in their time of breaking or producing a variety of colors ; but this result is said to be produced by their being planted in a poor and gravelly soil, in order that by a deficiency of nutriment in the earth, the luxuriance of the plant may be checked, by which it breaks out into varie- gations in the first, second, and third years ; and when the breaking of the color is once effected, if 4 38 -NOVEMBER. the bulbs be transplanted to a rich and suitable compost, it is stated that those and the flowers are thereby strengthened, whilst the breaking acquired in the poorer, by the transition to "the richer soil, remains unchanged. The process of raising these breeders from seed is much the same as in the case of other bulbous roots, but requires minute attention and a long apprenticeship of patience and perse- verance. The Dutch roots and their offsets might satisfy the moderate florist ; for they are still most to be re- lied on, and are not very costly in the general lists. Those who suffer under the tulip madness which once prevailed in Holland, and has been described by so many writers on this flower, but which shall not be inflicted on my readers, may still indulge in extravagant prices, and try whether they can exceed the less expensive florists. One curious circumstance in relation to this flower beyond any other is, that in any of its stages, (except, perhaps, in the seed-box,) it never requires to be watered. NARCISSUS. "Narcissus drooping o'er his rill, Keeps his odorous beauty still." This order includes the common Daffodil and fra- grant Jonquil. The former need not be enlarged on, in this brief treatise. The Jonquils, both single and double, are much in request. Their treatment is the same as that of the Narcissus ; the species are nume- rous, but of these the most approved kinds are the Polyanthus, comprising many varieties, the white or poetical Narcissus, and the Italic NOVEMBER. 39 A good one should be of clear and distinct colors, with its clusters of flowers blossoming at the same time, and all supported by upright and firm stalks. The Cyprus Narcissus, a variety of the Polyanthus Narcissus, is very double, the exterior leaves white, the interior some white, some orange : it is considered a handsome variety, and is of an agreeable odor. The double Italian Narcissus, imported from Italy, is most fragrant. The poetical Narcissus is very beautiful, with fine snow-white petals, and a yellow cup, fringed with bright purple or pink. This is termed poetical, being celebrated in verse as the subject of another whim- sical metamorphosis. Poor Hyacinth was killed by a quoit, but the fool- ish Narcissus, it seems, died for love, not of some beautiful nymph or blooming maid, but of his own sweet person, or rather of its shadow in the water. The nymphs, they say, who admired his beauty, though not quite as much as he himself did, intended him a merry wake ; but when they came for the corpse in all form, they could find nothing but another mighty pretty flower drooping its lovely head, as he was wont to do, over the same fountain aye, and at the same spot too, which put the matter beyond all dispute ; and the only difficulty now remaining is, that the poet, as my friend assures me, said the flower into which the deceased was changed, was yellow, and to prove this, has sent me the following quota- tion : " Instead whereof a yellow flower was found, With tufts of white about the button crown'd." Whereas the modern florists declare it to be white ; and I should be inclined to back the florists. In justice to the poet, however, I must admit that the 40 NOVEMBER. soleil d'or, a much-admired Narcissus, is yellow; and as there are many shades between yellow and white, it might require a jury of florists to decide this knotty point : all / have to do is to tell my readers how to cultivate and increase them, which is to be done through the medium of the compost recom- mended in the observations, in which plant .them four inches deep, and four inches apart, root from root, and when frost sets in, cover them with rotten tan or straw, and be most careful about the offsets, which should be taken off in June or July, on raising the bulbs, and planted at the same time that they are from October to February. The bulbs, if left in the ground, (which they .ought not to be,) will blossom naturally in May; and at a later and earlier season, according to the time of planting. In Holland the gardeners take them up as soon as the leaves fade. This cannot be our practice, however, when we re- quire offsets * in which case the plant must remain two years in the ground. These offsets require the same culture. Do not water till the green leaf ap- pears. The common Daffodil is very hardy, and generally planted among other common bulbous roots, in bor- ders, or in the foreground of shrubberies, under the shade of which, without the trouble of transplanting, it will freely yieltf. its flowers in spring. Jonquils should also be planted in beds or borders, and transplanted every alternate year, else their flowers will deteriorate ; or at least the earth should be frequently renewed, which will have the effect of preserving them in perfection. The soil in which they succeed best, is dry loam, without dung. NOVEMBER. 41 FRITILLARY. " if at noon the Fritillary droops, With drops nectareous hang her drooping cups." The three sorts of Fritillaries are, the common, the Persian, and the Crown Imperial. They are val- uable as early blowers ; the latter is ornamental and showy in roomy borders. They are, however, some- times displayed to great advantage, by being planted in alternate rows with the Dogs-tooth Violet ; both flower at the same time, the latter furnishing the beds with its broad leaves, which would otherwise have a naked appearance from the bare stems of the Fri- tillaries. The common, or Fritillaria Meleagris, (called Fritillaria, from the markings of its petals like a chess-board) grows from nine to twelve inches high. The Persian, cultivated by botanists rather than by florists, is tender. The Crown Imperial, a fine stately and beautiful flower, is hardy, strong, and well adapted to shrubberies, and would be much more in esteem, were it not for the rank odor which it ex- hales, resembling that of a fox : it has several vari- eties, principally single and double red, single and double yellow, and striped-leaved, all very orna- mental. Their propagation is by offsets ; if by seed, great care will be required, as in the raising of the more precious bulbs ; but it is not worth the atten- tion and the time required. In the different kinds above mentioned, it would take from four to six years to bring them to perfection. An old writer on gar- dening observes, that " patience and care are the chief ingredients, as we cannot have a blow from the seed-bed under six years ; but then by continuing to 4* 42 NOVEMBER. sow, we shall, after that time, have every year some- thing to reward and delight us : this has been my practice with the perennial bulbous-rooted flowers, and in a few years I was fully rewarded." In the compost recommended, the bulbs of Fritil- laries prosper ; the dwarf kinds should be planted at about four inches in depth, and at four inches apart in the row; those of the Dogs-tooth Violet, at four inches in depth, and at two inches apart in the row. The Crown Imperial should beat six or eight inches depth ; they should all be taken up every second year, as soon as the leaves are withered, and replanted in two months at farthest, recollecting in the intermediate year, to top-dress the beds before winter, with virgin earth. REMARKS. In any flower garden or shrubbery that has suffi- cient space for it, I would suggest the erection of a rude piece of rock work, which, when raised with taste and judgment, presents a pleasing contrast to the formal parterre. Besides, it may be rendered really useful as well as ornamental, by affording a position for those dwarf shrubs and plants, which would be overwhelmed amidst the luxuriant vegeta- tion of the flower borders. Here they may display their miniature beauties to the greatest advantage. I shall tell you how to form a piece of rock work, which, according to the circumstances of space, &c. may be either a mound, bristling with rocks on every side, with a winding path for ascent, or a pigmy clump for Lilliputian plants. As to shape, it may be of any that will present the least artificial aspect, and this must be deter- NOVEMBER. 4JI mined by localities, perhaps the most pleasing form is that of a steep shelving bank connected with a grotto in the centre, and extending its arms on each side to embrace a spreading piece of water, formed by a stream flowing from the grotto. Let the rock project naturally, with interstices or intervals be- tween the stones, for the insertion of plants, to be placed around in the most suitable aspect, and in the soils most adapted to their natures, under which there should be a substratum of matter most gene- rally acceptable to them, and this I consider to be well rotted sod-mould, mixed with a portion of rotten leaves and fine sand, the nucleus to consist of any other substance not too dry or porous, as its shape and elevation will secure it from a redundancy of moisture. On the banks, and in the water, may be placed a variety of aquatics, native or exotic, as the Water Lily,, a flower of tropical growth In virgin beauty blows The tender Lily languishingly sweet" Meriyanthes, and several others highly ornamental. On the high and dry parts of the rock I would place Cape Heaths, and those small flowers, of every form and season, which will bear our climate. Having now gone through the chief bulbs and roots to be planted and attended to in November, I shall subjoin a calendral index for this month, show- ing the Botanic Names, the Natural Order, and Lin- nsean Class and Order of each, with which a scien- tific friend has obligingly supplied me. 44 Q i 02 MONOGYNI tfONOGYNIA MONOGYNI POLYGYNI POLYGYNl MONYGYNI MONOGYNL MONOGYNL MONOGYNL LINN^AN < OR! HEXANDRIA TRIANDRIA I HEXANDRIA POLYANDRIA POLYANDRIA HEXANDRIA HEXANDRIA HEXANDRIA HEXANDRIA i . g * ^ o H Q 5 O Q HODEL 3f3Q .RYLLI UNCUL UNCUL 1 .RYLLI i M o & OH (A a ^i K K 3 2 3 !3 H HH < PH PH ^ 5 ^ ^q 2 1 . ggi S? CO 6 Q . . AN CLASS A* ORDER. [>RIA MONOGYNI A PENTANDRIA. DRIA MONOGYNI s A PENTANDRIA. EIIA DIGYNIA. ESIA SUPERFLUA IA MONOGYNIA. | h 1 MONGSCI I 1 PH 1 PH i o Q 1 SYNGEN 1 S W NATURAL ORI PRIMULACEJE. AMARANTACE^E. BALSAMINE^:. AMARANTACE.E. AMARANTACE^:. CARYOPHYLLEJE. EH O O 1 3 rf OQ a H P | CO Q ^5 ^ H 1 Pi H | P 3 H 5 PH 1 c HH O S P B 1 rf | R j H cs O 3 1 cs LSAM. XCOMI ICOLO RNATI 3 1 g 5 3 4 O O H O p H MONTHLY CALENDAR. MARCH. SOW Tender Annuals, if omitted in the last month, with a second sowing of BALSAMS on a good heat, TRICOLORS on a mild heat. MARTGOLDS, (ENOTHERA, MADIA, JACOBIA, NOLAN A, COREOPSIS, SCHIZANTHUS, TRACHYMENE, ZlNNIA, and CONVOLVULUS MAJOR. In the open ground, if the weather be fine, sow at the end of the month (but better deferred till April, if cold and wet prevail,) the following hardy annuals, viz., SWEET PEA, LUPINES, LARKSPUR, MIGNONETTE, ANNUAL STOCKS, FLOS ADONIS, LOVE LIES BLEED- ING, PRINCES' FEATHER, NIGELLA, CONVOLVULUS MINOR, VENUS'S LOOKING-GLASS, POPPIES, CATCHFLT,MALOPE,LAVATERA, CANDY TUFT, SUNFLOWER, CHRYSANTHEMUM, XERANTHEMUM, WINGED PEA, TANGIER PEA, HAWKWEED. PLANT ANEMONES, where omitted last month, RANUNCULUSES, POLY- ANTHUSES, LYCHNIS, ROCKETS, PRIMROSES, GENTIANELLA, GILLIA, VIOLETS, and LILY OF THE VALLEY, FRENCH and AFRICAN HONEY- SUCKLES, PINKS, SWEET WILLIAM, CAMPANULAS, COLUMBINES, and other fibrous-rooted plants. Part and pot LOBELIA FULGENS in rich soil, and as it increases in size, gradually shift it to larger pots. Water it regularly, and its splendid flowers will repay the care. OBSERVATIONS MARCH. This month opens to us a wide field for floral arrangements. Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials, present their names in a crowded list ; good taste, therefore, will be evinced by a judicious selection from them. Of the indefinite varieties that deck the surface of the earth, who will presume to hold any in con- tempt ? They are given by the bounty of Provi- dence, for purposes that human skill has not yet been fully able to apply. Yet, the selection rests with us ; and since few are enabled to indulge in such extensive pleasure grounds as to embrace the whole, or even a great proportion, of the variety offered, they must adapt their choice to the extent and circumstances of their gardens. Even the handsomest flowers should be restrained within due bounds, for if permitted to spread, or overgrow the beds or borders in crowded confusion, they give a wild and offensive appearance to the whole ; but where the low-growing ones ' are thinned out, and the higher ones staked and confined to moderate limits, many of them, beautiful in themselves, be- come an ornament instead of an evidence of bad taste and slovenly practice. 70 MARCH. The latter end of this month is the most desirable period for sowing Annuals, whether tender or hardy ; and where the sowing of them has not already been effected, I would now recommend energy and promp- titude in preparing either hot-beds or flower patches, according to the nature of the seeds. If sown in patches, garden pots may be turned over them with advantage ; for they preserve the seeds moist, and in an equal temperature, and protect them from the ravages of vermin. When the seeds are over ground, however, the pots must be carefully taken off by day, until the advancing mildness of the sea- son permits their total removal. All the tender hot-bed Annuals should be raised in an atmosphere of an elevated temperature, and in rich compost, and successively transplanted into pots, barely a size larger, (a natural observance,) until they arrive at their full growth. Drawing frames, such as can be raised as the plants require it, (by adding an additional bottom part,) should then be used. Balsams require a great deal of water. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE GARDEN. There is now no time to be lost in garden opera- tions, else every thing will go wrong during the suc- ceeding seasons. You must prepare hot-beds in the first instance, and these should be made as follows. METHOD OF MAKING A HOT-BED. Throw the dung into a heap until the fermenta- tive process shall have been completed ; then dis- MARCH. 71 pose it according to the required size and shape of your bed, laying the longest litter at bottom, and finishing with the shortest, taking care to beat it down firmly and well with the back of the fork as you proceed in the work, and trimming the sides neatly. It is a good precaution to place on the top of the whole a layer of moss, turf-mould, or any other light cool substance, to keep down the acrid vapor that may arise and injure your plants, but which, if properly restrained by this covering, will serve to render it a rich source of nourishment for any roots that may reach it. HOW TO SOW FLOWER-SEEDS IN HOT-BEDS. Sow the seeds either on the surface, (each kind by itself, covering them according to their size, from one-fourth of an inch to an inch,) or in very shallow drills, drawn with the finger, or a bit of stick, or the point of a poker, or any thing else you like better taking care to cover them. It is still better to sow in pots plunged into the hot-bed, as they can be easily removed to the open beds afterwards. Melon or Cucumber hot-beds will be convenient for receiving pots, which can be taken out before the Melons or Cucumbers require the space thus occupied. Make a slight hot-bed for the half-hardy Annuals; for the covering of which, hand-glasses, or frames covered with oiled paper, or hooped mats, will an- swer very well ; but for the tender, a hot-bed frame must be supplied. 72 MARCH. HARDY ANNUALS IN BORDERS. At the latter end of the month sow hardy Annuals in borders \u patches, which Loudon thus defines " circular forms, six or eight inches in diameter." In these patches sow either over the whole space, stirred up, raked and marked out, or in the circum- ference drilled ; and to avoid any subsequent con- fusion relative to the growing plants, let each plant have a little label with the name of the flower in- scribed upon it ; and this is easily effected : Take a lath, cut it into six-inch lengths, sharpen one end to a point, and plane or otherwise smooth the other end; rub on some white paint with flannel, then with a black lead pencil write the name of the plant while the paint is wet. PERENNIALS. Sow also Perennials, half an inch or an inch deep, according to their size, to be pricked out in May, and transplanted to remain, in October. AURICULAS. As frost or heavy rain would greatly injure these, (the buds being about to appear,) they must be kept under cover. MARCH. 73 EARLY TULIPS Will now exhibit their flowers, and should be guarded from high winds by any of the contrivances before mentioned, or by a close-meshed net drawn tightly over hoops, and raised when the flowers are incommoded by it. DAHLIAS. Prick out (two inches apart) into other pots, the Dahlias sown in February, as soon as they have thrown out the rough leaf, and keep them in a mild heat, occasionally supplying plenty of fresh air. If the buds of Dahlias brought into head in the last month have now pushed, pot them separately, taking care to preserve to each a root, or part of one. Sow seed also in a hot-bed for flowering this season. RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONES. When the leaves of these plants have got fully over ground, the rows should be carefully gone over to press the earth to their base, and prevent the pen- etrating of drying winds ; and when the earth is stirred, it should be done with extreme tenderness, lest parching winds should reach the roots in conse- quence. A thin layer of very rotten dung, laid on the surface between the rows, will be of material service ; and should harsh winds or hot suns prevail, it will be necessary to shade the leaves, for if they be injured, the bloom will be checked. 74 MARCH. CARNATIONS. Apply fresh earth to the Carnations which were planted out the preceding autumn, and remove from them all decayed leaves. Indeed, this care should now be taken with all plants in boxes or pots, adding fresh earth, (without going so deep as to disturb or injure the roots,) for this tends greatly to assist the flowering. The fine stage Carnation layers that you have pre- served under frames during the winter, should now be removed into flowering pots, (the compost to be as before directed,) about nine or ten inches diam- eter, a pair in each, as is generally practised by flo- rists, to secure fine flowers, and let the bottom be well drained by means of broken tiles, pots, or oyster shells ; place them in a sheltered situation until they become established, from which time, until the sea- son of flowering, they should be in an airy and open situation, lest they be weakly and drawn. CAMPANULAS. These are a numerous family, and many of them are highly ornamental ; for example, the Speciosa and Glomerate species ; but the Campanula pyra- midalis demands an especial notice. Of this there are two varieties, the blue and white, both best propagated by seed, but generally by roots, which when divided into cuttings of three or four inches, and planted in pots, with the head raised above the surface, readily become plants, which, when of sufficient strength, should be shifted sue- MARCH. 75 cessively into larger pots until they flower. They require rich soil. They are particularly suited to positions in halls or windows, continuing to blossom during the greater part of the season. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Part the suckers, giving each the comfort of a penny pot ; or plant cuttings, which though not so forward as the others, will make handsomer plants. Many prefer laying them from the old growth in summer in small pots, cutting them off and treating them as the others. The first method is the least troublesome, the others produce neater plants. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE HOT-BEDS. Should the heat have diminished, line the hot-beds in which you have sown your tender Annuals last month, and prick these out (two inches apart) from the seedling pots, into others previously filled with bright rich earth, and plunged into the hot-bed, in order to warm the earth for their reception. This warming-pan operation should be performed the day preceding that on which the plants are to be fresh potted. Water them gently and moderately, and shade the glass over them until they shall have struck root, and afterwards keep the earth moderately moist, as nothing is more injurious than drenching the plants with water. Remember also to admit as much air as the state of the weather will permit. "76 MARCH. LAYERING AND OTHERWISE PROPAGATING. Lay the Paeonia montana and the Chinese Pseony as soon as its buds begin to swell, and take off rooted offsets. Propagate Myrtles, Geraniums, &c. by cuttings, (to be put into a hot-bed, under glass,) and propa- gate by grafting, Thorns, Acacias, Roses, Althaea frutex, &c. Prune all decaying Geraniums and clear off the dead leaves. Remove Rose trees, which, if properly treated, will flower the same year. Green-house plants are best propagated by plant- ing the young shoots of the same year, in May or June, and April or May are the best months for shift- ing and dressing them. GARDEN FLOWERS IN BLOSSOM. These are Crocus, Snowdrops, several species of Narcissus, Daffodils, Iris, early Tulips, Crown Im- perials, Fritillary, Dogs-tooth Violet, Violets, Hya- cinths, Polyanthus, Primroses, and Wallflowers. By the way when noticing the Crocus^ page 28, I omitted to state for the benefit of all whom it may concern that a love affair was connected with a particular species of this flower, the Saffron Crocus. This is called after a poor lad of the name of Crocus, who was so desperately enamoured, (and I believe unavailingly,) of Miss Smilax, that he lost his natu- ral color, which after passing through the stage of extreme paleness, became of that interesting bilious hue, which is expressed by the term yellow, a color MARCH. 77 which, as far as his descendants are concerned, may be seen in its purest tint at Cheltenham. PRINCIPAL GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN FLOWER. Acacias, many sorts ; Ericas, a great variety ; Camellia, Hovea, Boronia, Diasma, Kennedia, Spring Cyclamens, Chorizema, Epacris, Polygala, Azalea, (of various colors,) and Pimelea, which are among the most ornamental. PRINCIPAL SHRUBS IN FLOWER. Almond, dwarf and common Cornelian Cherry, some Heaths,* Daphnes, Virginian Cherry Plum. ROUTINE WORK. Dress up borders, and roll your gravel walks. * The Mediterranean Heath has been but the other day discov- ered in the west of Ireland, by Mr. Mackay, a Scotchman j BO much has Botany been neglected by my countrymen. 78 , * .S.S.2 ^4 :-~^ 1 ..11-slfgl.glfill^ 1-sl-iil-ilil-sl S oxxSx-SgEg.2 o-f^^-i* 'Sg'fgo OajSESSE-^ w oocrai^i?o8QHS ia;(oSSHtBCBOO(B0H MONTHLY CALENDAR. APRIL. SOW The more delicate Annuals enumerated last month; the rare CAPE BULBS may be added to the number. Sow Perennials, viz. COLUMBINE, SWEET WILLIAM, PINKS, CAR- NATIONS, HOLLYHOCKS, POLYANTHUS, COWSLIP, PERENNIAL LARK- SPUR, BUGLOS, ANCHUSA, ESCHALTZIA CALIFORNICA, CENOTHERAS, PENSTEMON, COMMELINA, MARVEL OP PERU, &c. &c. PLANT EVERGREENS. Propagate LAVENDER and Box by slips. Plant Cuttings of Evergreen Shrubs in the Nursery. Graft or bud ROSES. Graft the rare sorts of AMERICAN GREEN OAK. Propagate JASSMINES by cuttings. Inarch EXOTICS, &c. OBSERVATIONS FOR APRIL. In this month we have frequently very charming days, doubly so after the severe season which has passed. Now there is peculiar pleasure in dressing up flower-knots, borders, and shrubberies, previously to their exhibition of beauties. ANNUALS. Some of those with the hard botanical names {see list in March.) are new comers, and though probably as hardy as many of our old Annuals, it will be safer to sow a little of each sort in moderate hot-beds, and to treat them in every respect as the French and African Marygolds. You may now safely sow those which do not require hot-beds, such as Sweet Pea, Lupines, Con- volvulus Minor, Nasturtiums, Ten Week and Rus- sian Stocks, Poppies, Larkspur, &c. &c. (see last month's Calendar,) and also hardy Perennials, viz. Sweet William, Columbine, Hollyhocks, Pinks, Car- nations, Auriculas, Polyanthuses, Cowslips, Peren- nial Larkspur, Escholtzia californica, CEnotheras, Penstemon, Commelina, Marvel of Peru, &c. APRIL. TENDER ANNUALS. Transplant tender Annuals in hot-beds. AURICULA. "Arrayed she comes in a splendid variety of amiable forms, with an eye of chrystal, and garments of the most glossy satin, exhaling perfume and powdered with silver." Water your Auricula seedling pots, and if there be hot sun, shade them, else they will be destroyed. Auriculas are now beginning to exhibit their flowers ; they must therefore be guarded from wet, else the farina, which constitutes their great beauty, will be washed off; but give them all the air that is consistent with the safety of the flower, and expose them only to the morning sun. They should now be brought to their flowering stage, with an easterly aspect, the shelves of it ele- vated about three feet above the ground, and about six inches over each other. This stage should be roofed with glass, and have sliding glasses upright in front, to preserve and show them to the greatest advantage. When the flowering is over, shift or dress the plants as occasion may require. Those intended for bloom in the ensuing year should be shifted into pots, seven inches deep, six wide at top, and four at bottom. For flowering plants, preserve the balls entire, removing as much of the attached earth as can be done without injury to the root, and take care to give effectual drainage by putting loose materials in the bottom of the pots, which should be placed APRIL. 83 on coal ashes to prevent the entrance of worms from the bottom. When Auricula plants require water, it should be supplied in the early part of the day at this season, that the plant may fully imbibe the moisture ; but do not water the centre of the plant, lest the stem be injured. CRITERIA OF A GOOD AURICULA. Stem long and erect; peduncles strong; tube one-sixth part of stem in diameter ; eye, one-half, and the exterior, with its margin, one-third. The flower-leaves or pips, should be as nearly as possible round at the edge, the anthers large, and should fill the tube well. The eye or interior circle round and very white ; the exterior with its ground color rich and uniform, distinct at the eye ; its green edge or margin in equal proportion with the ground color. Mark off such flowers, when in full blossom, as you intend to save seed from, and remove the pots containing them to such an aspect as will afford them the sun until mid-day, for ripening, which will be in June. COMPOST FOR AURICULAS. One-third of rotten cow-dung reduced to earth, one-third of very rotten sod-mould, one-sixth of rot- ten leaves or bog-mould, and one-sixth of fine clear river or pit sand ; let the whole be frequently turned and broken, for at least twelve months before it is used, and kept in an airy situation. 84 APRIL. Propagate Auriculas by slips : these will readily strike root in pots kept in the shade, or in the open air. In propagating by slips, the species will be accurately continued ; this will not be the case from seed, which produces varieties. POLYANTHUS. "And Polyanthus of unnumbered dyes." The Polyanthus is now seen in its highest per- fection. It has been so highly improved as to be a stage flower, and of course kept in pots. Its proportions are nearly those of the Auricula, but it should have a more circular -outline ; it ought to be flat, the ground a dark rich crimson or scarlet velvet ; its edge a bright gold lace distinctly striped down to the eye, which should be of a bright and clear yellow. Altogether a perfect Polyanthus possesses more elegance of form and richness (without so much showiness) of color than the Auricula. It is a hardier flower, and its culture also is easier. Keep the offsets in beds, to be potted next month, for flowering in the ensuing year. COMPOST FOR THE POLYANTHUS. I recommend two-thirds of rotton sod-mould, and one-third of rotten cow-dung. You may now plant out Polyanthuses, and prop- agate them by slips, if not already done. APRIL. 85 HOT-BEDS. Line the old, or prepare fresh hot-beds for receiv- ing the tender Annuals sown in either of the two last months. Plant the Annuals out from the seeding bed, three or four inches asunder, which will be sufficient growing space for a month to come, when they should be again thinned out to other beds. Take up and treat the plants in the fresh hot-beds as already directed. The seeds which were early sown last month, will be ready for pricking out now. If the sowing has not yet taken place, there is still time for it. HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. Sow in moderate hot-beds some of the half-hardy Annuals, viz. China Asters, India Pinks, Marygolds, (French and African,) common Balsams, Chrysan- themums, Amaranthus, &c. Beds, such as are made for gherkins, and hooped over for occasional shelter, will answer well at this advanced season, if frames are not available. HARDY ANNUALS. Sow hardy Annuals now in patches in the borders and beds. CARNATIONS. Sow Carnation seed as directed in the ensuing month. 86 APRIL. BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS. Plant out such of these as were sown last May, if not already done, observing to raise them with balls of earth, and to water afterwards. Biennials so removed will flower in the same year. The sorts to be planted are Lychnis, Hollyhocks, Canterbury Bells, Wallflowers, Calves-snout, Rose Campion, &c. TULIPS AND HYACINTHS. The late ones are beginning to blossom, and must be protected from heavy rain, wind, and frost, by close matting, or canvass over hoops. The very common kinds may take chance of weather, which will injure them only by abridging the period of their flowering. DAHLIAS. If the Dahlias pricked out last month in pots have become crowded, separate, and pot them again, either singly or in small pots, or in large ones, six inches apart. In these they may remain until finally planted out, at the end of May or commencement of June. TUBEROSES. These, if not planted last month, should now be put into hot-beds, each in a pot about six inches APRIL. 87 diameter, and when they spindle, let them be care- fully staked ; when full blown, they may be intro- duced in the boudoir or drawing-room, where they diffuse a delicious fragrance. They are annually imported from Italy, and may be purchased at the Italian warehouses or seedsmens' shops. Plant out the " plain selvage of Box" where it is required ; this is, however, rather late for this work. Dress all flowers in pots or boxes, applying fresh earth, removing decayed leaves, watering mode- rately, and removing plants from smaller to larger receptacles, as they outgrow their jackets. EVERGREENS. This is probably the best season for planting Ever- greens, which should be laid in wide and deep holes saturated with farm yard puddle, which retains moisture to the roots for a considerable time. Stake the tall ones ; and besides watering, in order to save newly-planted shrubs from the effects of hot sun or drying wind, lay a thick covering of moss all round the lower parts, or even stones laid about them will assist in preserving moisture. GREEN-HOUSE. Unless harsh winds prevail, you must now give constant air to the plants, night and day, as there is little danger of injury from frost to those under cover. Want of a free circulation of air will cause the plants to flower weakly, and will render them 88 APRIL. unable to bear the external air when taken out in a succeeding season. By the way, this may afford a practical hint to tender and foolish mothers about the nursery management of their, children, which may do them more good than a regular essay on the subject. The want of frequent exposure to air is the cause of half our diseases. Plant cuttings of Heath, Chinese Roses, and such green-house plants as have young wood sufficiently ripe ; they will root best in fine sand, under glasses. Sow the seeds of tender exotics from the Cape, Aus- tralia, or other warm latitudes. Inarch Exotics, and take cuttings of Sedums, Ficoides, and other succulent plants, but do not put the cuttings of the hardier kinds in earth for a week, until the wounds shall have time to heal, observing to place them in the shade during this period. When sufficiently healed, plant them in pots of light sandy soil, and give but little water. Inarch and graft Camellias, which are now beginning to shoot, and should be abundantly watered. When Camellias have ceased flowering, remove them to a higher temperature, but shaded, as they cannot well sustain the sun's direct rays ; thus treated, they will perfect their shoots and form their flower-buds well. Propagate Jassmines by cuttings. During this and the next month, you may, at your leisure, remove such plants as require more room, into larger pots, and take out the hardy kinds of green-house plants, placing them under shelter of a hedge or wall, and admit free air to the tenderest sorts that remain. After putting your choice plants into larger pots, plunge them into the bark, which should be stirred up with some fresh material to renew the heat. APRIL. 89 A Selection of the most Ornamental Herbaceous Plants now in Blossom. Auricula, Polyanthus, Anemones of various spe- cies, Gentianella, purple and Siberian Saxifrage, Star of Bethlehem, Siberian Squill, Violets, Alypum, Soldanella, Alyssum, &c. GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN BLOSSOM. Acacia, Heaths, Camellia, Epacris, Kennedia, Polygala, Grevillia, Elichrisum, Hovea, Pimelia, Boronia, Hypericum, Struthiola, &c. SHRUBS IN BLOSSOM. Tartarian Honeysuckle, early Italian do., Andro- meda, Rhodora canadensis, Rhododendron dauri- cum, Kalmia glauca, Daphne, Heaths, Double Furze, Siberian Crab, Canada Mesphilus, Bird Cherry, Double flowered do., Double flowered Peach, Double flowered Almond, Tree Peony, (on a southern aspect,) Chinese Magnolias, &c. ROUTINE WORK. Clean and roll gravel walks, and if you have grass walks, keep them regularly mown once a fortnight at least. Clean, trim, and rake your borders ; cut off all intruding weeds, and tie up your tall plants to rods or stakes. Do every thing in your power to destroy grubs of every kind, which are highly injurious to flowers, and particularly to the leaves of the Rose tree, that most beautiful of all beautiful shrubs, " Oh, the Rose, the first of flowers, Darling of the early bowers." ' V^.. 8* MONTHLY CALENDAR. MAY. Sow Biennials, viz : PURPLE ROCKETS, STOCKGILLIFLOWERS, HOLLYHOCKS, WALL- FLOWERS, CANTERBURY BELLS, ROSE CAMPION, SCABIOUS, &c. Sow PERENNIALS also, and if required, some more hardy Annu- als for a late succession. Take up such of your bulbs as have their foliage withered. OBSERVATIONS MAY. This is considered the best month of the year for sowing Biennials. Perennials and hardy Annuals also may still be sown, (though last month would have been better for them,) if omitted in the pre- ceding months. A sowing of Mignonette, Indian Pinks, Marygolds, China Asters, &c. will give a late and agreeable succession : this, however, cannot be deferred beyond the first week of the month. Put out (in pots) the tender Annuals into a fresh hot-bed of convenient size for shading and watering, say four feet in breadth, and of any convenient length. Take the precaution, however, of not plung- ing the pots into the beds sooner than a week after its formation, else sufficient heat will not have been generated. In removing these Annuals from one pot to another, as they increase in size, be careful to take up a ball of earth entire about the roots, and supply fresh earth to the pots, well pulverized, of the composts recommended before. Cover the bed with,glasses, giving a little air every day, and shading the plants from the hot sun, until they are strong enough to look him boldly in the face. Take care also to let the steam arising from the bed escape, 94 MAY. else it will hurt the leaves, and of course materially injure the whole plant. Those flowers which grow very tall, such as Dou- ble Balsams, Coxcombs, Egg Plants, &c. must, of course, have head room, and to allow this, the frame must be gradually raised. Where there is not what is called a drawing-frame-, I would avail myself of Mawe's simple substitute : " Fix at each corner of the bed an upright post about four feet high, and on the inside of each post let some auger holes be bored, allowing six inches between hole and hole ; then provide four iron or wooden pins, one for each post, and fitted for the said holes. When the frame wants to be raised, let the pins be placed in the holes of the post at a convenient height, and set the frame upon the pins. When the frame wants raising again, fix the pins a hole higher, and so proceed as the plants rise in height. Mind to close up the vacancy at the bottom, at each time of advancing the frame, by nailing some good thick mats round the outside below. As a general rule, I would recommend, in this climate, that tender Annuals should always be kept in pots and in green-houses, or under cover of some kind. Shade Tulips and Hyacinths from hot sun and this you can do in a cheap way ; get stakes, four feet long, drive them one foot into the ground, along the sides and ends of the bed, at eighteen inches dis- tance, tie rods between them across the bed, to sup- port an awning of calico, canvass, or bass mat, which are only to be put on for excluding full sun, wind, and rain. In the succeeding months it will be es- sential to shelter Carnations, which cannot blow in perfection, unless protected from rain and mid-day sun. The covering should be removed after the heat MAY. 95 of the sun, towards evening, and not replaced before nine in the morning. CARNATIONS. Sow Carnation seed in boxes under glass, and when they are well up, place the plants in a western aspect, and water them carefully in dry weather. Transplant every one of those so pricked out last year, into the borders, leaving the remaining plants to stand and blossom in the beds. HALF-HARDY AND HARDY ANNUALS. Prick out such of these as were sown last month, into fresh hot-beds, and remove those that have been already so treated to the places where they are to stand for flowering, taking care, as in the other cases, to water and shade them until they shall have taken root. They should be so arranged in the beds as to exhibit their varieties, when in bloom, to the greatest advantage ; you are also now to transplant the hardy annuals from the patches where they were sown. Watering is essentially necessary, if this month be dry, to make flower-seeds strike quickly and flower in the course of the summer. Many plants, such as Sweet Pea, Nasturtium, and Convolvulus, will require the support of rods, to which they should be tied as they advance in height : a tottering or trailing plant has a very slovenly ap- pearance, and loses its vigor from want of support ; " for few self-supported flowers endure the wind un- 06 MAT. injured, but expect the upholding aid of the smooth shaven prop, neatly tied, and are wedded thus." DAHLIAS. Put out the old Dahlias that have been parted, potted, and rooted in the preceding months, as soon as all danger of frost is over, having previously in- ured them by degrees to the external air. TREATMENT OF TULIPS, RANUNCULUSES, AND ANEMONES IN BLOSSOM. Shelter these from high winds and scorching suns. AURICULAS. Shift these into larger pots for next year's blos- som, and plant offsets. POLYANTHUSES. Part these, if not previously done, and plant them in a shady border, observing to water them plenti- fully until they have taken root MAY. 97 TREATMENT OF BULBS OUT OF FLOWER. When these are out of flower take them up, and after drying them on boards or a mat in a shaded place, lay them by for the planting season. THE TULIP, "The fop of flowers," Should not be suffered to remain in the pot to ripen the seed, which tends to debilitate the bulb. Some of the sorts of Tulip will be fit for raising in the course of this month. The winter Aconite, (Helleborus hyemalis,) if not taken up now, may not be discovered easily at a subsequent season, as the leaves and stalk totally disappear soon after flowering.* The offsets will enable you to multiply the num- bers considerably, and these should be immediately taken off from the main root. The principal ones to be planted by themselves, for the finest flowers, in the ensuing year. The very common bulbs, however, such as Snow- drops and Crocuses, are usually left for years with- out moving, but even these will flower better and multiply more by observing the foregoing rule. To obtain offsets, and keep separate the principal bulb, allowing it, at the same time, total rest from vegetation during a part of the year, are the reasons for taking them up. If the time of raising them and separating the off- * This is propagated by pieces of the root. 9 98 MAY. sets be postponed for many days after evidence of decay in the leaf and stalk, a new growth of fibres will have commenced, and then to check their veg- etation would impair the flower of the succeeding year, or possibly, in the very delicate species, pre- vent it from flowering at all. GREEN-HOUSE. Finish the shifting and dressing of the plants, in order that they may establish their vigor before they are put out. For the greater part of Heath and Australian plants, the best mould is that from heathy hills or dry sandy land ; for most other plants, light loam or sandy earth is the best. To render thefn particularly vigorous, the com- post of rotten leaves is the most desirable, but let it be remembered, that health, not great size or luxu- riance, is what should be principally sought " 'Tis not the biggest, but the best we prize." Among the green-house plants, though one of our oldest, the Orange or Citrus still holds a superior rank, and deserves especial attention. Taking its tout en semble into account, of foliage, flower, and fruit, we have none to equal it. As I have not before noticed it, I may be permit- ted now to say a word or two about this fragrant plant. " The Orange breathes its aromatic powers." It is generally propagated by budding or grafting, sometimes by cuttings, where dwarfs are required. .^ MAY. 99 For stocks, sow Lime or Citron seed, which will run up, if kept in a hot-bed, about twelve inches in the first season ; in the next spring, transplant them into small pots ; these may be budded the same sea- son, or the following spring grafted ; but to have vigorous plants, take from shrubs three or four years old, or if you wish for high stems, five or six years old. Give them a mild bottom heat, and the grafts or buds will take the more freely : cover the grafts with the bell-glass.* Oranges in this climate should not be exposed to the open air, but kept under glass, not in the strong flare of the sun. They require shade in summer, ut in winter may be placed any where, if protected from frost. At that season they should be kept rather dry, but when growing, they require frequent watering and sprinkling. Light rich sod-mould, well rotted, mixed with one- third of rotten dung, is a good compost for them. Large receptacles do not answer for them. The pots or tubs should always be filled with roots, be- fore the plants are shifted into others, and the bot- toms well drained. This treatment applies to those which are raised here, as well as to those imported from Italy, and to be had at the Italian warehouses every spring, in London, with strong stems, from four to five feet high. The fruit comes to perfection ip this coun- try, if the tree be planted in a terraced border, and trained to a trellis-work at the back wall of the green-house, where it produces a beautiful effect. The flower is used as a preserve, or to make Orange flower water. * The great Orange trees at Margam, in Glamorganshire, are put out every summer. 100 MAY. I have been assured that at Paris the produce of one good headed tree, for the latter purpose, sells for half a guinea. The Orange trees in the Tuille- ries are so managed. The principal species of the Citrus are, the Sweet and Seville Orange, Japan, Mandarin, and Myrtle- leaved Lemon, the Acid and Sweet Lime, Citron, and Shaddock. When your green-house plants are established in the pots after removal, and a/ter all danger of frost is over, let them be placed in a sheltered spot for a short time, to inure them to the situation in which they are to remain during the summer : that situa- tion, though sheltered, should not be shaded, but open, and especially exposed to the influence of the morning sun. If the pots be sunk in some light damp substance, such as old tan, they will be secured from extreme drought, and much trouble in water- ing will be avoided. Clear standard Roses of suckers from the stalk : bud stocks of the wild or dog-brier Rose, and they will push well the same season. Grafting and bud- ding roses is a frequent practice on the continent. BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS IN FLOWER DURING THIS MONTH. Tulips, Anemones, Ranunculuses, Iris, Fritillary, Crown Imperial, Star of Bethlehem, Peruvian Squill, Lily of the Valley, &c. HERBACEOUS PLANTS IN FLOWER. These are so numerous, that I must confine my- self to a selection of the most ornamental : Anchusa MAY. 101 italica, Savory, Spiderwort, White Asphodel, Frax- inella, American Cowslip, Double Purple and White Rockets, Mimulus, Peonies, (various,) early flower- ing Phlox, of different sorts ; Potentillas, (various,) Pyramidal Saxifrage, Herbaceous Ranunculus, Spi- derwort, Globe Flower, Summer Snowdrop, Vero- nicas, Pansie Violet, &c. PRINCIPAL GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN FLOWER. Geraniums of various kinds ; Convolvulus, yel- low-leaved Asphodel, Ficoides, Myrtles, Jasmine, Heaths of many varieties, Fuchsia, Calceolaria, Gnidia, Heliotropum, Jasmine, Magnolia, Cheiran- thus, Helianthemum formosum, Aniseed Tree, Ixia, a Cape bulb in great varieties, of beautiful color and form, somewhat corresponding with our Crocus. SHRUBS IN FLOWER. Rhododendron, Kalmia, Azalea, and some Andro- medas ; Judas Tree, Cytisus, Laburnum, Lilac, Brooms, Thorns of various sorts, Helianthemum, Sedum, Rose Acacia, Roses of various sorts, Scotch Pompone, &c. &c. CLIMBERS. Passion Flower, Clematis virginiana, Cobaea, Bra- chysema, &c. 9* 102 MAY. Observations on some of the Plants in Flower during this Month. CROWN IMPERIAL. " Crown her queen of all the year." This plant, when double, and striped with yellow and red, is strikingly beautiful, with its large pendant flower, surmounted by a nodding crown ; it is to be admired, however, at a distance, for its scent, on near approach, is any thing but attractive. PERUVIAN SQUILL Is a neat border flower, having a blue or white cone at an elevation of four inches. LILY OF THE VALLEY. " The Lily, silver mistress of the vale." Any lengthened description of this dear little un- assuming and retiring flower, is unnecessary ; every one knows it, and every one loves it. Sandy soil and shade are best suited to its nature ; though I Have seen it flourish in strong soil, and a sunny aspect. The roots should be separated (in autumn) once in three years. There are three varieties of this Lily, two single and one double, the latter origi- nally brought from Holland. One of these varieties bears a redish flower. MAY. AMERICAN COWSLIP. "Where the bee sucks, there suck I ; In a Cowslip's bell I lie." The above species is also called Dodecatheon Media,* (from its twelve stamina, and the celebrated Dr. Mead,) its leaves are flat and rounded : from the centre it sends out one or more slender stalks, about nine inches high, bearing a head of delicate lilac flowers, (turned back,) with a pendulous beak of an orange color. Of this flower there are two or three varieties. Though a native of Virginia, it cannot bear a scorching sun, for there it occupies the woods. It should only be exposed to the morning sun ; and as to its soil, a mixture of turf-mould, rotten leaves, and sand, will prove the most suitable. AQUILEGIA CANADENSIS, OR WILD COLUMBINE. This beautiful little perennial, with its yellow flowers tinged with scarlet, is found wild in almost all parts of the United States, flowering during the months of April and May. It is generally found in a dry soil, and most usually about the sunny side of rocks ; it is cultivated with ease, requiring very little attention : common garden earth, without ad- ditional manure, is sufficiently rich for it. The plant is readily recognised by comparing it with the drawing given at the head of the spring months. G. * The plant more generally known in the United States as American Cowslip, is the Caltha palustris, a showy yellow flower, seen in moist grounds during April and May throughout the northern States, and called Marsh Marigold, or American Cowslip. G. 104 MAY. ROCKETS. - yielding a balmy fragrance f day, when other plants exhale At close o A noxious fragrance." These are beautiful garden flowers, which, as they grow in a spiral form, do not spread and suffocate the adjoining ones. The single kinds having little beauty, when compared with the double, are seldom cultivated by florists, but they are hardy and will thrive in a shady border. The double Rocket is a biennial, and has purple and white varieties, of great beauty and fragrance. If propagated by seed, the plants will flower in the second season. The fol- lowing remarks, with directions for its culture, are given by Robertson : " The double Rocket is a beautiful plant, rather scarce, owing to florists not being acquainted with a successful way of increas- ing it. I had a few plants of Rocket under my care, and I did them all justice, as I thought, but all would not do ; I lost them all. I tried to part their roots, but being small and weak, the slugs eat them up in a short time ; I tried to increase them by cuttings in the common way, with as little success. This led me to try another method, which I would recom- mend as a never-failing way of propagating this beautiful flower. If a person has but one plant of Rocket, and is anxious for its flowers, the first thing is, after the flower is beginning to fade, to cut down the stalks, and divide them into ordinary lengths of cuttings ; next to cut off the leaves and smooth the ends ; then to make three slits with a knife, in the bark or rind, lengthwise, so as to separate or raise the bark for half an inch in length. When the cutting is inserted in the ground, the loose bark naturally curls up ; and it is from this bark that the young MAY. 105 roots proceed. The partial separation, and the turn- ing up of the bark, seems to promote a tendency to throw out roots. The cuttings may be put into flower-pots, as they may thus be sheltered in winter with more ease, or they may be placed in the natu- ral earth, provided the soil is light and fresh. Cover- ing them with a hand-glass will forward the rooting of the cuttings, or with the aid of a hot-bed they will succeed excellently. I have practised this method for six years, and never without success, not one in twenty having failed. This method will hold good in cuttings of Stockgilliflowers and double Wall flowers." PEONIES, "Erect and tall," Are too large for a very limited garden : they answer best in the borders of large gardens, or in shrubberies, where they may grow tall without an- noying their neighbors. They are hardy enough to flourish any where, and at this season they pre- sent a very showy appearance. The flowers are pink, purple, and white. Peonies are best propagated by parting the roots in September, in doing which, care must be taken to leave a bud on the crown of each, and not to sub- divide too much. The parts should be planted three inches deep. PYRAMIDAL SAXIFRAGE Is an old, yet very ornamental plant, generally kept in pots for exhibition-halls, and flower-stands, 106' MAY. throwing up in this month a pyramid of white flowers, which will continue during the next. PANSIE VIOLET. Nor is the Violet last in this shining embassy of the year." This flower, always a charming one, expressive emblem of those modest virtues which delight to bloom in obscurity, has, latterly, by careful culti- vation, become, professionally speaking, a florist's flower, exhibiting as long a list of names as any of its compeers. It has been brought to its great per- fection in size and color by mixing the seeds.* The culture is very simple, by seed and parting. FICOIDES. " and the spangled beau Ficoides, glitters bright, the winter long." Notwithstanding the allusion to winter in the motto, Picoides are now in blossom. They are curious plants, and rather hardy. Their best position is out- side the wall of a hot-house, where they grow better in rich and fresh mould, than if complimented with pots inside. They are classed by botanists under the name, Me-sem-bry-an-the-mum, which word is derived from Greek words, signifying a flower which opens in mid-day. Some of them are very beautiful : they are sun- flowers in miniature, of various colors, and flower * Technically termed, hybridizing. [ MAY. IOT abundantly. Of the tremendously large family of the Me-sem-bry-an-the-mum,* the Ice Plant is the greatest favorite. MARVEL OF PERU. This plant, a native of Peru, (Mirabilis jalapa f ) attains great size, if grown in deep and rich earth ; it is sown in a border, as it becomes too tall for the flower-bed. It must have abundant room wherever it is placed, as it causes considerable shade. In order to see its varied flowers in perfection, the amateur florist must be a pretty early riser. Cobbett says, that by housing the root in winter, it may be made a perennial. The Marvel of Peru grows about two feet ; it is bushy, and full of pink and striped flowers. If the roots be preserved and treated Jike those of the Dahlia, it will be very ornamental through the summer, nor does it close even in the evening, for which reason the French call it la belk de nuit. One species of it, the long-tubed, is very fragrant. STOCKGILLIFLOWER. " Fair is the Gilliflower of gardens sweet" Of this rich and beautiful flower there are many varieties, but the purple or red stock, (Mathiola pur- purea,) and the scarlet, (Mathiola coccinea,) and Brompton, and Twickenham, are the finest; they begin to blossom this month, and sometimes exhibit a * There are three hundred kinds. 108 MAY. splendid stem of double flowers, sixteen or eighteen inches in length. This month is the time for saving the seed ; that sown in the preceding year, as di- rected in the last month, will now be in flower. Plants that have blown well are scarcely worth holding over for a second year, as they seldom pro- duce strong flowers more than once. Another approved mode of propagating double flowering stalks, is to take slips and cuttings from the double sorts; but plants so raised are never pro- ductive of such fine flowers as the parent exhibited, nor equal to those from seedlings. Successions of this flower are in blossom during many months of the year. " The Gilliflower, like a real friend, attends you through the vicissitudes and alterations of the season, while others make a transient visit only." The small annual stock is also called the ten-week stock, from its flowering in ten weeks after being sown ; this, if carefully saved,* generally produces fine double flowers ; there are numerous shades or varieties of this, called Russian and German stock. Light fresh soil is best for these. THE WALLFLOWER, OR CHEIRANTHUS. " The yellow Wallflower, stained with iron brown." The straw-colored is a more tender variety than either the yellow or the bloody. The purple-colored is deficient in fragrance, but its appearance renders it worthy of high estimation. The old double bloody Wallflower is not in high fashion. * See the French mode of saving it. MAY. 109 The truth is, that we have become two fastidious and fanciful, and often, from their variety or delicacy, value flowers infinitely less worthy of admiration, than many of those which we despise. One of the species, (Cheiranthus mutabilis,) or changeable-flowered Wallflower, blossoms during the whole year, if kept in shelter ; exhibiting red and purple flowers, intermixed. The Wallflower is propagated precisely as the Stockgilliflower, by slips ; the very choice sort is raised by seed. THE PASSION FLOWER. " Enfringed with an empurpled blue, And streaked with young Pomona's green." This is one of the most beautiful creepers, and it now exhibits its lovely flowers. " Among all the beauties which shine in sunny robes, and sip the sil- ver dews, this, I think, has the noblest import, if not the finest presence. Were they all to pass in review, and expect the award of superiority from any deci- sion, I should not hesitate a moment.**** While others appoint it a place in the parterre, I would transplant the Passion Flower, or rather its sacred signification, to my heart. There let it bloom both in summer and winter; bloom in the most expressive characters, and with an undecaying lustre."* Many kinds of the Passi Flora are stove plants, but this which I am now noticing is a hardy and well known climber, the only kind that will bear exposure during our winters ; it thrives best in loam and peat, and should have a southern aspect for the sake of its * Harvey's Reflections on a Flower Garden. 10 110 MAY. beautiful fruit. It is propagated by cuttings, seeds, or layers. Seed sown in a hot-bed will be fit for planting out in the following year. Layers will be sufficiently struck in twelve months ; and cuttings, made early in spring, before the plant begins to bud, will bear planting out in the next spring. If placed under glass, in a hot-bed, they will very speedily root V CLEMATIS^ "The Clematis, the favored flower, Which boasts the name of virgin bower.' 1 '' This is also a lovely ornament to the wall, and is very hardy, growing in almost any soil, (light loam the best, however,) and easily propagated by cut- tings, which soon strike if put under glasses. The motto will set some people right, about the pronunciation of the word "Clematis;" most persons laying the accent on the second syllable, instead of the first, if the lamented author of the " Lady of the Lake" be considered authority. The Virgin Bower is found wild in almost every part of the United States, and is frequently seen covering the fences with its large white flowers, during most of the month of June.- THE MYRTLE, " Which breathes its balmy fragrance o'er the wild," Though a conservatory or green-house plant, has some hardy varieties, which, in many parts of this mild climate, grow freely in the open air. In win- MAY. Ill ter, however, it is necessary to guard against frost and snow ; for this purpose, let stakes be driven into the ground to bear cross-sticks or rafters, for the support of a few well-tied bundles of straw or furze faggots.* FUCHSIAS. Amongst the great variety of green-house plants in blossom this month, the Fuchsia stands pre-emi- nent for attractive powers. The species are of all sizes, from nine inches to nine feet, clothed with brilliant crimson flowers ; so gracefully pendant throughout the season, that they strike even the dullest eye with admiration. They are natives of Chili, (probably of the mountainous parts,) and hardy enough to stand our ordinary win- ters,f in a warm situation. We have now ten or twelve sorts, and more are expected. The ordinary treatment of Geraniums suits them. RHODODENDRONS, AZALEAS, KALMIAS, AN- DROMEDAS. These are called American plants, and run into endless varieties. When in bloom, they are very * I have heard it said, (but do not vouch for it as a fact,) that in winter the peasants of the county of Kerry sometimes protect their small breed of black cattle, during their mountain wanderings, by a dorsal thatching of faggots, experience having proved, that the foolish little animals had the indiscretion, when hungry, (no uncom- mon case with them,) to eat off each other's cloaks when made of straw. f This remark applies to the winters of Ireland, and not to those of the northern states of this country. G. MAY. onamental ; the foliage is rich, and the form agree- able. They require similar treatment in general a sheltered situation shaded from the noonday sun, heathy soil, sweet and dry, taken from the skirts of a bog, or sandy peat obtained from a mountain side, (where water never stands,) and such as is mixed with fine white sand. This should be laid sixteen or eighteen inches deep, to receive them. Should the season prove hot and dry, they must be kept moist by watering ; but much of this trouble may be saved by laying a coat of moss round them. To describe the varieties would be endless, as they are multiplied every day by hybridizing. One, however, lately introduced from Nepaul the Rhododendron arboreum must not be overlooked. This is an evergreen tree, thirty or forty feet high, and crowned with bunches of either scarlet or white flowers ; it is one of the most beautiful vegetable objects imaginable at the base of the snow-clad moun- tains of its native country. In Ceylon, near Adams' Peak, it is also found ; and it thrives well in this country, flowering here, and bearing our winters, (that is, of Ireland,) though not those of England, without injury. THE ROSE ACACIA. " Smiling there, The Acacia waves her yellow hair, Lovely and sweet." A native of Virginia, makes long straggling shoots, and is fortified with straight spines, like those of the Raspberry. It bears a profusion of rose-colored flowers, in pendulous branches, six or eight inches long ; it requires staking, as it is brittle, but no other peculiar treatment. MAY. 115 WISTERIA, OR GLYCINE SINENSIS, Is a trailing creeping plant, that requires a warm wall or paling for its support, but amply repays all trouble by its beauty ; it is of the family from China. When established in the ground, it will shoot ten or twelve feet in a season, and is hung on the old wood with long bunches of pale purple flowers, like those of the Laburnum. In autumn it throws out a second crop, rather larger in size than the first. TREE PEONY. Another precious novelty from China, which has supplied us with so many plants, but with none more superb than this. This shrub bears flowers, in form like those of the common Peony, but in greater profusion and of more beauty. It is of va- riegated rose-color. There are some varieties, as the Banksia, the Passaveracea, with a flower painted like the Gumcistus, but single and some newly raised from seed. On its first introduction it was kept in conserva- tories, but experience has proved that it stands our winter well. It thrives best in a light rich soil, and should have a warm and sheltered situation, as frosts *riay blight its flowers. 10* 114 MAY. BOUTINE WORK. Weeds now grow very rapidly ; they should be picked out carefully, as fast as they intrude, from the beds, borders, and pots. Keep gravel-walks also free from weeds ; and in order to do this effectually, you may scatter salt abundantly on them, taking care not to lay it on the edging, which it would destroy. This is, however, but a slovenly practice ; it is better to depend on the hoe, or the finger and thumb. MONTHLY CALENDAR. JUNE. Take some of the tender annuals, viz. CACALIA, SEDUMS, CAPE MARIGOLDS, BALSAMS, AMARANTHS, &c., to the green-house, in place of the Exotics moved into the open air. Put into the flower borders, MARYGOLDS, INDIA PINKS, CONVOL- VULUS MAJOR, &c. Pick out seedling perennials and biennials. Propagate ROSES and other shrubs. Plant cuttings of ROCKETS, and DOUBLE SCARLET LYCHNIS, Take care of HYACINTH roots. JUNE Is not so busy a month for the florists as the last has been ; they may now rest a little from their labors, and enjoy the rewards of their care and at- tention, in the brilliant display of flowers which will everywhere meet their admiring view ; still, enough is to'be done to afford agreeable employment, and to prevent total intermission of anxiety and interest. TENDER ANNUALS. The green-house plants being now finally arranged out of doors, the tender annuals may supply their place within : intermingling with the dry and suc- culent plants, which during the winter have been kept in the dry and dusty corners of the back shelves, and which the high temperature of your house will now suit. The Agave, or American Aloe, is the subject of a marvellous story regarding its blossoming, which it is said takes place only once in a hundred years. But I believe that, though there may be some foun- dation for this assertion, in this cold climate, where it blows at very long intervals, it blooms in more southern ones, once in four or five years, and then it is truly a splendid object its flower-stalk starting up twenty or thirty feet in height. The tender an- nuals which are not destined for the green-house are to be planted in the flower borders from the hot-bed. 118 JUNE. Balsams* and Marygolds, (French and African,) Indian Pinks, Convolvulus major, (Ipomoea,) Ama- ranthus, and many others may, in the course of this month, be put into the borders or beds, in showery weather, if such there should be, and if not, let them be moderately and carefully watered. DAHLIAS. Finish planting out your Dahlias in good strong loam, for it is in this they attain the greatest perfec- tion ; plant them three, four, or six feet apart, ac- cording to their size, ranging them with reference to their height, and water them when in full bloom, with liquid manure. If you have spare room, change their location every year ; if not, trench up the ground and add some fresh compost every season, or (which will have the same effect) raise new tubers every year from the cuttings of your most approved varie- ties. The finest Dahlias degenerate if confined to the same soil. Staking them is necessary, else the wind will make sad havoc among them when their branches become heavy. The firmest mode of staking is by placing three sticks in an angular position, one of a height exceed- ing the probable altitude of the plant, and the other two about one-half its height ; these firmly tied at their point of junction, form a secure frame for the support of the plant, (which will soon conceal it by its foliage,) that no wind can disturb. Another, and a neater mode, is by placing two or * The Balsam, Coxcomb, Ipomoea, and Amaranthus will, how- ever, blow much better if retained in the green-house. The sama may be said of almost all the tender and half-hardy annuali. JUNE. 119 three sticks in upright and parallel directions, and tying two or three hoops, (according to the growth of the Dahlia,) horizontally round them. The plant in the centre will be secure, if the sticks be suffi- ciently driven into the ground. In the culture, leave only one shoot, (the strongest,) on the tuber. Those which you take off) (removed as low as possible, with a portion of the tuber,) will become strong flower- ing plants the same season. PIPING PINKS. This is the season for piping Pinks, to have which in perfection, the plants now flowering should be of last year's piping. The bed should be richly ma- nured. If you neglect piping or slipping Pinks now, you will fail in preserving a succession of plants. The end of this month is the best time for piping, (which is effected by pulling* the heart of the shoot out of the stem at the second joint.) by layering, as with the Carnation, (separating the young shoots partly from the mother stem, and drawing the earth about them) or by cutting the shoot across at the same point, and sticking these shoots in a bed of rich light compost, sifted fine and watered, about one inch apart and half an inch deep. The first method is resorted to when a large supply is wanted, but it is not so certain as the other methods, which will afford a moderate sufficiency. It is said that pipings yield the largest flowers. If you have an old hot-bed, of milk heat, it will be the best recep- tacle for the abstracted parts ; cover them with a cap-glass, or frame, and shade them from the sun, occasionally watering them until they strike. * The least approved mode. 120 JUNE CARNATIONS. Tie up your Carnations, as they spindle ; dress the surface of the pot with light rich compost, and lay on it a thin coat of very rotten dung, which will re- fresh the plant and keep it cool. AURICULAS AND POLYANTHUSES. Repot these ; increase them by offsets, and place them in a shady eastern aspect ; water them in dry weather. Take care, also, to keep them free from weeds, grubs, and decayed leaves. ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUSES. Shade these plants, and water them occasionally with liquid manure. Indeed, this is an admirable cordial for most plants particularly in exhausted beds or pots its basis being carbon (or charcoal) in solution, which forms the substance of vegetables, from which, as well as from all animal matter, it may- be extracted, and modified in various ways. The manure principally used in gardens for supplying this carbon in solution, and as the most stimulant, is the dung of pigeons and sheep ; but other manure, administered in greater quantities, will answer as well. Malt dust, and soot and wood ashes, are powerful stimulants. Sheep's dung has been proved highly nutritious to bulbs, but any extract of dung, judiciously applied, will serve the desired purpose. JUNE. 121 HYACINTH ROOTS. Those of the choice kinds, which were put oy to dry, should now, if perfectly ripened, be wrapped separately in absorbent paper, and placed on shelves or in boxes, where they may have such circulation of dry air as will prevent them from decaying. It has lately been advanced that bulbs should not be taken up at all, except to remove offsets, and to make their beds. Nature seems to suggest this. SEEDLINGS. Prick out, six inches asunder, the seedling Peren- nials and Biennials which were sown in the spring months. CARE OF FLOWERING PLANTS. Stake and tie up all your annual flowers, many of which will suffer wofully if unsupported; and as soon as any flowers have ceased blowing, cut off their stalks and decayed leaves. WORK TO BE DONE. " Who heaps her basket with the flowers And leaves, 'till they can hold no more." Form baskets or clumps of the most showy green- house plants, (if you do not prefer the rock-work previously directed,) turned out of their receptacles, it 122 JUNE. into the open ground. These will often display per- fections which they conceal when confined within the narrow boundary of a pot ; but to avoid risk, you should devote to this experimental purpose, only such as are of easy propagation and quick growth, and such as can readily be replaced. Some of those best adapted to this purpose are Pelargoniums and Geraniums, Heliotropiums, Calceolarias, Fuchsias, Salvias, Verbenas, Lotus, Lychnis, Aurantia, Mimu- lus, Jacobea Lily, Cinerarias, Malvias, Bouvardia, Maurandia, Barclayana, Tropaeolum, Polygalis, Me- Jaleucas, Arctotis, Alonsoa, Ficoides, Schizanthus, &c. &c. ; all these will thrive in any ordinary gar- den soil, and if tastefully disposed, will produce a very brilliant effect. The Pelargoniums alone, will in themselves, show an infinite variety of colors, as they are extremely numerous. Indeed, where the collection of plants is considerable, it is no easy mat- ter, at all times, to find room for them ; and therefore the more dwarfish and neatest should be preserved in the green-house, while those of larger dimensions occupy halls, hot-beds, and spare rooms ; with the Erecaution of preserving them through the winter om frost and continued damp, and watering them with moderation and regularity, they may present at this season a very healthy appearance. Of all the showy sorts mentioned, it is difficult to make a selec- tion. I must, however, particularize some : the Sal- via fulgens, and the Verbena melindris : the former is a strong growing plant, from three to four feet in height, the latter an humble spreading one, not more than six inches high ; both of them, throughout the season, are clothed with spikes or heads of scarlet flower of the richest hue. Then there are the Sal- via chamcedryoides, of a beautiful sky blue ; Lo- belia gracilis, blue ; Alonsoa, .scarlet ; Bouvardia, JUNE. 123 crimson ; Poly gala, purple and white ; Lotus, rich brown ; Mimulus, yellow ; and Tropaeolum, yellow, or orange, or dark brown all in perpetual bloom from one end of the season to the other. In this assemblage, we have a multiplicity of lovely forms, arrayed in the most exquisite vesture, and fragrant with the most delicious perfumes : " And what a wilderness of flowers ! It seems, as though from all the bowers, And fairest fields of all the year, The mingled spoil were scattered here." " Whether they are blended or arranged, softened or contrasted, they are manifestly under the conduct of a taste that never mistakes, a felicity that never falls short of it, the very perfection of elegance. Fine, inimitably fine, is the texture of the web on which these shining treasures are displayed. What are the labors of the Persian looms, or the boasted commodities of Brussels, compared with these curi- ous manufactures of nature ? Compared with these, the most admired chintzes lose their reputation; even superfine cambrics appear coarse as canvass in their presence." ROSES, Stake standard Roses, and bud them ; they will take through the summer, while the bark rises; those which are budded now or in the preceding month, if headed down, will shoot the same year. Clear off suckers from the roots. The mode of budding, by which to insure the shooting in the same season, is to make the cross- cut below the insertion of the bud, and to bring the bark of the bud itself in contact with the bark of the stem on which you have placed it. This method, 124 JUNE. by uniting the two barks, combines the advantages of grafting with those of budding. It is not essen- tially necessary to take the wood out of the buds of Roses, which it is sometimes difficult to do. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE GREEN-HOUSE. Take cuttings or layers of the plants first enume- rated, (excepting the annual plants, and the Jacobea Lily, which is propagated by offsets,) which are easily propagated in this way. Cuttings of most other green-house plants may also now be made, though an earlier period would have been better, in order to have the plants strong before the winter. The herbaceous sorts to be planted in light loam, with mild heat, and under shade ; the woody, in fine sand, under glasses ; they should be of the same year's growth, cut at a joint, kept moderately moist, and also shaded from the sun. Plant cuttings of Rockets and double scarlet Lych- nis, when done flowering the latter to be placed under a cap-glass. This is a good time for taking cuttings of Myrtles, which should be planted in light rich earth ; shade and water them until they shall have rooted. Ge- raniums, and other shrubby Exotics, are to be treated in the same manner. Transplant into larger pots the seedlings raised in the spring, and put the very tender ones into fresh hot-beds ; those which are less delicate, will only require to be shaded, and sheltered under glass until they root. Take care to give plenty of air to the green-house, and to shade the plants during strong sunshine. JUNE. 125 SHRUBS. Propagate all shrubs, (Roses included,) which re- quire such process, by layering in the young wood either tongued or notched. Plant out as creepers, blue and purple Maurandias, Lithospermum, Orange Ecremocarpus, all of which are free growers, and highly ornamental ; they may be raised by cuttings or by seed, which they yield in great abundance. PRINCIPAL BULBS IN FLOWER Pancratium* maritimum, Iris, Tigridia pavonia, Iris alata, Iris xiphium, Iris xiphoides, Gladiolus byzantinus, Gladiolus communis, Gladiolus carneus, Gladiolus tenuis, Gladiolus imbricatus, Fritillaria messanensis, Fritillaria lusitanica. PRINCIPAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS IN FLOWER. Pinks, Abyssinian and Bracteate Poppies, Lychnis, Aconites, Flag Iris, and other varieties ; Sweet Woodroof, grass-leaved Spiderwort, Perennial Lark- spur, Geraniums, Virginian Rhexia, Potentillas ; a variety of Peonies, Melissa grandiflora, Melittis melysophilum, Iberis (candytuft) sempervivens, Ibe- ris tenoreana, Perennial Lupines, Mignonette. SHRUBS IN FLOWER. Roses, Bodleia Globosa ; most of the American plants, viz. Rhododendrons, Azaleas, &c., (if the * The Pancratium is really tuberous, as is also the Autumn Crocus ; but they are placed among the bulbs by Loudon. 11* JUNE. weather be cool ;) Cistus or Rock Roses, (half-hardy plants,) Chinese and American Magnolias. Observations on some of the Flowers and Shrubs now in Blossom. TIGER FLOWER, (TIGRIDIA.) "Emblem of human pride, that fades away; Of earthly joys, that bloom but to decay." This flower critically corresponds with its motto; it blossoms but for a few hours, and is analagous to the ephemeral insects which are born but to die. However, it presents a constant succession of flowers during the warm months of the year. Its vegetating process is singularly rapid ; in the course of a few hours, the flower perfects all the functions which nature designed it to perform, and contrary to the habit of other blowers, it expands by night. GERANIUM. " Geranium boasts her crimson honors." The Geraniums are as remarkable for their beauty as for the facility with which hybrid varieties are produced among them. They are the most distin- guished ornaments of the green-house some of the Pelargoniums displaying a brilliancy and depth of coloring scarcely to be equalled by any of the other Exotics. The Geranium is a native of the northern, and the Pelargonium of the southern hemisphere. They are easy of culture ; thriving in the w r arm borders of the garden during the summer and au- tumnal months. Cuttings of these plants strike with JUNE. 127 facility on a gentle hot-bed, and may be made any time during the spring or beginning of summer. When rooted, they should be potted in a compost of equal parts of rich earth, rotten dung, and leaf- mould, well sifted and incorporated together ; and if properly attended to, they will flower strongly the next spring. New varieties are obtained from seed, which should be sown in a rich light soil, and very thinly covered, or the seeds will rot ; when the plants are of sufficient size, they may be potted and treated as the cuttings. Among the following are some of the finest va- rieties : Anna Boleyn, Fulgens, Pavoninum, Ardens, Gowerii, Phaeniceum, Ardescens, Gowia Superba, Purum, Atrosan i^uineum, Atropurpureum, Grenvillianum, Grandiflorum, Gtueen of Scots, Ctueen Adelaide, Baileyanum, Harvvoodiae, Russellianum, Bakerianum, Hoareanum, Richianum, Barclayanum, Humei, Robin sonii, Brownii, Husseyanum, Saundersii, Boyleae, Incanescens, Scottii, Carnescens, Incarnatum, Scintillans, C ary ophyllaceum, Imperiale, Selectum, Charlwoodii, Jenkinsoni, Semouriae, Clintoniae, Kingii, Smithianum, Colvillii, Lambertii, Smithii, Corruscans, Latilobum, Spectabile, Cosmianum, Leghkeckiee, Stapletonii, C men turn, Lousadianum, Stewartii, Davyanum, Martanthon, Striatum, Dennisianum, Megalanthon, Scinnotii, Devere, Mostymoe, Thynneo3, Dobreeanum, Murrayanum, Tibitsianum, Electum, Nairnii, Torrefactum, Exunium, Newshamianum, Vandesise, Elegans, Notatum, Varium, Elatum, Optabile, Verecundum, Fosterianum, Ornatum, Villosum, Fair Maid of Perth, Palkii, Wellsianum, Formosum, Potteri, Youngii, Floridum, Princeanum, Yeatmanianum. 128 JUNE. PINKS. " I am the very pink of courtesy." The Pink is, unquestionably, a very lady-like flower, blossoming in this month. The Paisley florists have brought it to the highest degree of per- fection ; they exhibit seventy or eighty choice va- rieties, some of them almost equal to the Carnation, and have more than three hundred kinds altogether. The criterion of a fine pink may be thus given : A fine Pink should have the stem erect, and from ten to fourteen inches high, or more, according to the vigor and habit of the plant, and of sufficient strength to support the blossoms erect. The calyx, or flower-cup, should be of a long rather than round form, and strong enough to support the petals with- out bursting, which is a capital defect, though the flowers be perfect in other respects. The petals should either be very finely fringed or perfectly rose- leaved, and absolutely free from coarse deep inden- tations. The outer or guard leaves should have sufficient firmness of texture to maintain themselves horizontally, and support the interior petals, which ought not to be too crowded, but arranged with regu- larity and symmetry. The coloring of a laced Pink should extend from the base, round the edge of each petal, in a clear, well-defined manner, and whatever be the hue, present a lively and rich appearance. If the flower be without the lace, or ornamental bor- dering, the eye or centre must be rich and distinctly marked, and finely contrasted with the snowy white- ness of the outer portion of the petals. The large flowers are more valued, but are also more apt to burst their flower-cups, (and in consequence to lose their symmetry of form,) than the small ; but the JUNE. 129 larger that the perfect flowers can be obtained, the more esteemed are they ; this, however, is a mere matter of taste, many persons preferring the smaller, which are generally more perfect and elegant. I shall here add the names of a few fine Pinks: Bow's Luster, Bow's Suwarrow, Davy's Eclipse, Forster's William IV., Barrat's Conqueror, Bray's Waterloo, Faulkner's Duke of Clarence, Faulkner's Diadem, Davy's Duchess of Devonshire, Clarke's Smolensko, Kean's Wellington, Pottecary's Eclipse, Pitman's Miss Cooper, Clarke's Prince Coburg, Da- vy's Lady Durham, Langford's Sir Francis Burdett, Davy's Shannon, Pitman's Louisa. THE POPPY, " that an opiate dew Concealest beneath thy scarlet vest," Is too rank for a very limited garden. The great double French Poppy is, however, desirable in extensive gardens and shrubberies ; but in any garden, the small French double Poppy, (paper- leaved,) of various colors, and resembling the Ra- nunculus, and the Abyssinian, recently introduced, when kept within proper bounds, are striking orna- ments. The bracteate Poppy is a perennial, and may be propagated either by parting the roots in March, or by seed ; if by the latter mode, the seed should be sown in autumn, for if sown in spring, the plants would run to flower from the heat of the weather, before they have acquired sufficient strength for bearing. The French and Abyssinian Poppies are annual, and should be raised from seed sown in April. The 130 JUNE latter requires the aid of a hot-bed. From one of the common varieties of the Poppy, cultivated ex- tensively in Turkey for the purpose, " a balm that gods have made for care," and known to men by the name of opium, is extracted. MIGNONETTE. the fragrant weed, The Frenchman's darling." This sweet flower, originally from Africa, (Reseda odorata,) is usually an annual, but if protected from frost, it will flower most of the year ; if cut down in September, it will blossom again in the following spring. There is a rare kind, peculiarly fragrant, (a shrubby variety, and properly an inmate of the green-house,) which flowers in winter, and is there- fore most desirable in the drawing-room. ROSES. like the season's rose, The flowret of a hundred leaves j Expanding, while the dew-fall flows, And every leaf its if its balm receives." The general bloom of Roses takes place in this month. To enter into a detail of varieties, which already extend to the prodigious number of twelve hundred, and are every day increasing, will hardly be expected from me. We may reckon about two hundred of very distinct perfections, and of every shade, from pure white to the deepest crimson. Some are in bloom every month of the year, varying JUNE. 131 in height from six inches (one of these would fit in a teacup) to six feet ; well may it be called the "Queen of the garden," its reign is perpetual its claim un- contested ; it has possession of every part of the globe, from the " Indus to the Pole." We have our own peculiar Rose in this country, the Rosa hibernica, which, though it possesses the valuable properties of scent and durability of flower, has not been improved by our florists more shame to them. The Scotch have obtained two hundred varieties of their Rose, (Rosa spinosissima,) which grows wild also on our hills and coasts. These varieties (some of them very beautiful) have been obtained by transplanting some of them with the ordinary sorts, with which they have hybridized, and from the seeds all these varieties have sprung up. Some of the lately-intro- duced varieties partake of the nature of the ever- blossoming Rose, (the Chinese, or Rosa sinensis,) being Hybrids from it, and flowering at several seasons. ROCK ROSE, (OR CISTUS.) " Fair Cista, rival of the rosy dawn." The Cistus has great and beautiful varieties ; its flowers are very fugacious, but happily, constant in succession ; it is properly a half-hardy shrub, and requires a warm aspect. MAGNOLIA, "Lets the delicious secret out, To eVry breeze that roams about." The American Magnolia is superb, and must have a sunny position. The Magnolia glauca exhales 132 JtTNE. delicious fragrance ; a single plant is sufficient to perfume a moderately-sized garden ! This succeeds best in peat soil, and requires moisture. LIRIODENDRON TULIPIFERA. TULIP-TREE. This magnificent tree, of which the above is a cor- rect drawing, is one of the most superb of the tem- perate zones: equally remarkable for its great height and beautiful foliage, its superb flowers, and its hand- some wood, which last is used for a variety of use- ful purposes, under the name of white poplar, white" wood, tulip-tree wood, &c. The term Liriodendron is taken from two Greek words, and signifies the lily-tree, from the resem- blance of its flowers to those of a lily or tulip. It is found throughout the forests of the 'United States and is very easily cultivated. It grows from sixty to one hundred feet in height, and is said to have been seen one hundred and forty feet high and seven feet in diameter, and is in flower during the months of June and July. LYCHNIS. Of this there are many varieties, among which Campions, and white flowering broad-leaved, and double Catchfly, are classed. The double or scarlet Lychnis (the latter called Jerusalem moss) may be propagated by seed, by parting the roots, or still better, by cuttings of the side shoots without flowers, at the third or fourth joints, and sunk in earth half- way between the second and third joint. This plant will grow in almost any soil, but succeeds best in a ..Lirodendrvn Tulip, Tree. JUNE loamy ground and an exposed situation. The single German Catchfly, Lobels, Spanish Campion, and some other varieties, are raised from seed as well as* from the roots and cuttings, and the seeds, if not pre- viously sown, should now be committed to the earth. ROUTINE WORK WATERING. This is very essential during this usually very hot and dry month. Observe, however, to water either very early in the morning or late in the evening. What is called hard water is the least fit for this purpose : the best is that which is supplied by ponds ! If you are obliged to use well-water, expose it two or three days to the sun and air before you make use of it. WEEDING, &c. There is no season in which weeds grow so rapidly and in such profusion as during this month ; the hoe and finger, or weeding sprong, must therefore be continually employed to preserve the degree of neat- ness which should prevail. Snails and slugs will also give trouble, and these must be picked off or killed by lime, salt solutions, &c. ; the early morn- ing and late evening hours, and those which imme- diately succeed showers, are their favorite ones for promenading. GRASS-WALKS, AND GRASS-PLOTS. These must be mown now, and during the other summer months, every week, or at least once in a fortnight, and rolled frequently. 12 134 02 3 S in 1 S B 1 d C LINN^AN CLA! AND ORDER. ETRADYNAMIA. P i ENTANDRIA MoNOG ECANDRIA PENTAG ETRANDRIA MoNOG VTNGENESIA ^EQUAI ECANDRIA PENTAG ECANDRIA DIGYNIA ECANDRIA PENTAG 1 H 0. P ^ 02 P P P Q . . . 4 1 el w NULACE PHYLLE i 1 CO ILACE.E, PHYLLE PHYLLE 2 u. d d < o H O [-3 o p P P s Pi c& ^J 4 05 ..-., 199 at their junction with the mother plant,) and thinly covered with light rich compost, for if they are deeply buried, they root badly and with difficulty, the access of air being necessary to promote the free production of fibres : the points of the leaves of the layers must be preserved uninjured, and not cut off or shortened, as is the usual practice, or you will deprive the plant of a necessary means of support, the leaves of plants being as essential to their vitality as lungs are to animals. In five or six weeks from the formation of your layers, they will be rooted, and may be removed from their parent stems. The Carnation blossoms are now advancing fast to maturity ; those which are double and much in- clined to burst, should have the flower-pods either tied neatly with bass mat, previously wetted, or supported by circular cards, with holes punched in the centres, to fit the pods ; and these should be cut (with a very sharp penknife) through each of their divisions to the base, taking care not to injure the petals. This process permits the flowers to expand evenly, and the cards not only preserve the blossoms in their natural form, but also aid materially in increasing the duration of the bloom. The Carna- tions, if in beds in the open ground, and unprotected by canvass or other substantial covering, should have their blossoms guarded from the sun and rain, by umbrella-shaped pasteboard shades, which may be attached to the stakes supporting the blossoms ; but if this cannot be conveniently done, they should be fixed to pieces of slit, lath, placed in the ground in the most advantageous positions to afford shelter to the blossoms. 140 JULY. MIGNONETTE. If you desire to have Mignonette in flower at the latter part of the floral season, you ought to sow it now. ROSES JASMINES. The layering and budding of Roses and other shrubs may now be performed. Some species of the Rose do not freely yield suckers, and must therefore be propagated by layers. The stocks for budding may be taken from the suckers of the most common kinds. The common dog-brier, from its superior vigor, is the most desi- rable stock. Jasmines are principally propagated by budding, and the common white kind is the most usual stock. PROPAGATION OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. The suckers which at this season have attained the height of twelve or more inches, may now be parted and planted in separate pots, in a compost of equal parts of leaf mould, garden soil, and rotten dung ; they will make fine blooming plants for No- vember or December : when they are strongly root- ed, cut away the centre or leading shoot, to let the plants push out side shoots, and form a bushy and well-shaped head, while they at the same time pre- serve the dwarf size, which is desirable, if the plants are grown in pots. Cuttings rooted early in the month, with a little bottom heat, will also make pretty dwarf growing plants to flower in autumn. JULY, TREATMENT OF DAHLIAS. 141 These are now coming into flower, and will re- quire the support of hoops, or of the triangular sticks described in the preceding month. The general work of this month consists princi- pally in watering and tying up plants, and in weed- ing. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE GREEN-HOUSE. Syringe and water Camellias and Oranges fre- quently, and shade them from hot sun. * Plants potted in peat, (as are most of our Cape and Australian ones,) should be carefully examined every day, lest they should become too dry, for peat is so little retentive of moisture, that they will re- quire frequent watering. Take cuttings of your green-house plants, if you have not taken a sufficient supply in June, and plant them in a bed, shaded during the day by the hoops and coverings already recommended. The very tender succulent ones should have a mild hot-bed, but all the Geraniums, Myrtles, Jacobeas, and Cape shrubs, will freely root themselves in a bed of rich earth in open air ; exposure to nocturnal dews in either case is desirable. Remove insects from the leaves, which are now peculiarly liable to injury from them. Give abundant air to the green-house. Shift seedlings according as their growth re- quires it, from smaller to larger pots ; water and shade them, until they have rooted. 142 JULY. EXOTIC SEEDS. Gather and save seeds as they become ripe, and spread them in dry places to harden ; afterwards preserve them in their pods. THE MOST ORNAMENTAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS IN FLOWER. Double Rose Campion, Hollyhocks, Spiderwort, Campanulas, Scarlet Chelone, Blue Catananche, Dragon Head, Rudbeckias, Coreopsis, Gentian, Erynga, Spiraea Trifoliata, Perennial Sunflower, Hirherocalis, Iris, Lilies, (White, Orange, and Mar- tagon,) Lilium Japoaicum, Verabrum, Phlox, (of va- rious sorts,) Escholtzia, Cardinal Flower, Monkey Flower, ^Enothera, Monarda, Potentilla or Cinque- foil, Pentstemon, Feather-Grass, Verbascum, Ger- man Catchfly, Scarlet Lychnis, Scarlet Geum, Pe- rennial Larkspur, Blue Catenanche, Dahlia, Meny- anthes, Campanula pyramidalis, Gladiolus cardinalis, Nolana, Lupinus, Polyphyllus, Potentilla, Lathyrus grandiflorus, Sea Holly, Water Lily, Ixia, Stapelia, Gladiolus psittacinus. ORNAMENTAL GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN FLOWER. Sensitive Plant, Nerium splendens, Escholtzia californica, many Ericas, Acacia, Wax Plant, (Haya carnosa,) Double Red and Double White Lily, African Lily, Agapanthus, Begonia, Evansiana, JJJLY. 143 Commelina, Gardenia, Melaleuca, Neurumbergia Phoenicia, Double Pomegranate, Psidium catleya- num, Cape Trumpet Flower, (Bignonia capensis,) Tuoma capensis, Single Oleander, Double Red and White Oleander, Verbenum, Fuchsia, Calceolaria, Double Nasturtium, Metrosideros, Jasmine, Mela- leuca, Chironia, Agapanthus, Balsams, Ice Plant, and the whole tribe of tender Annuals. SHRUBS. Roses,* Yellow Broom, Spanish Broom, Aristo- lochia, (a beautiful climber,) Azalia, Rhododendron, American Ceanothus, Virginian Ilex, St. John's Wort,' Cytisus capitalis. Double Bramble, (white and red,) Lupine tree, Menziesia, Myrtles, Jas- mines, &c. CLIMBERS. Japan and Chinese Honeysuckles, Passion Flower, Clematis, Eccremorcarpus. * Although the greater part of the Rose tribe flowers has passed away with the last month, there are many varieties of the Chinese, Bourbon, Musk and Damask species, still in bloom. 144 JULY. Observations on some of the Plants now in Flower. HOLLYHOCKS. " How high his haughty honor holds his head." Hollyhocks are too tall, and require too much space for any place but the front of a shrubbery or a spacious border. They are, however, ornamental and showy, and of varied hues. Bees are said to be especially fond of them. " And from the nectaries of Hollyhocks The humble bee, e'en till he faints, will sip." PERENNIAL LARKSPUR, Or Delphinum grandiflorum, is a superb peren- nial Larkspur bearing spikes of brilliant dark-blue double flowers, with a purplish tinge. No other flower presents a blue of equal richness and splen- dor. This plant, which is held in high estimation, is a native of Siberia, and of easy culture, requiring little more than common care to produce its superb blossoms in luxuriance. After flowering, it dies to the root, which should be protected during the winter season from too much wet, and particularly guarded from slugs and snails, as they are very destructive to it, both at this season and in spring ; it is increased by dividing the roots either in au- tumn or early in spring. This plant will not grow either in or near a town, the smoke quickly destroy- JULY. 145 ing it. The proper soil is a mixture of peat and loam, with a little very rotten dung. ESCHOLTZIA CALIFORNICA Is a plant of late introduction to the flower-gar- den, and one of its most showy ornaments, display- ing a brilliant succession of rich yellow colored flowers, from July to November, and is found to stand our winters with the protection of a light covering of straw or litter, when the weather hap- pens to be severe. It grows luxuriantly in common garden soil, with a slight admixture of leaf-mould, and is produced from seeds sown on heat in April or May ; the young plants, if taken care of, will flower the same season. GLADIOLUS CARDINALIS. This is one of the Cape bulbs, yet it may be flowered in the open air in this country, as indeed may be most of the African Gladiola, by protecting them with a covering of straw during me winter months. This Gladiolus displays its blood-colored blossoms, which are very beautiful, during this and the ensuing month. October is the time for plant- ing the bulbs, seven or eight inches deep, lest frost should reach them. They require a peat loam, and a moist situation. Many pretty hybridized Gladioli have lately been produced from seeds of the differ- ent varieties. The seed, if sown in the green-house in November, will vegetate strongly in the following 13 146 JULY. spring, and the young bulbs may be planted in the next October, to flower the succeeding year. POTENTILLA, (CINQUE-FOIL.) The varieties of this plant are from the Nepaul country, the mountainous parts of which have con- tributed many beautiful plants, sufficiently hardy for our flower borders ; few of them exceeding the Po- tentilla, whose flowers are crimson and purple.. IXIAS Are bulbous roots from the Cape of Good Hope, of the same rank and size that the Crocus is here, but much more varied in color : a mixture of peat and sand is the best soil for them. STAPELIA. This is a succulent genus, and has many species: the shape and appearance of the flower and shoot are singular : one species has a very disagreeable smell, so delightful, however, to the olfactory nerves of flies and maggots, that they deposite their eggs, and are hatched, in it: not desirable for the boudoir. GLADIOLUS PSITTACINUS, A species lately introduced among us, exhibiting flowers of the richest tints Orange ground and JULY. 147 Carmine pencilled streaks. It will answer in a warm border. NERVIUM SPLENDENS Is a charming green-house plant, bearing panicles of flowers, each as large and as double as a small Rose or Carnation, and resembling the latter in shape : it flowers during the greater part of the sea- son, but requires a glass-heat to perfect its beauty. SENSITIVE PLANT. "If you offer to handle this sensitive plant, she immediately takes an alarm; hastily contracts her fibres; and, like a person under apprehension of violence, withdraws from your finger in a kind of precipitate disorder." The Mimosa sensitiva, or Sensitive "Plant, is a native of Brazil, and cultivated in our green-houses on account of its well-known property of closing its leaves, and dropping the leaf-stems, when touched or removed from the light. It is well known that this motion depends on a circular swelling at the base of each leaf-stem, which will, if cut away at the under part, prevent the leaf from erecting itself, and if the contrary side is removed, the leaf cannot fall down. The seed of these plants should be sown on a hot-bed in April, and when sufficiently grown, potted in a compost of equal parts of peat and gar- den mould, and placed in the warmest part of the green-house or bark frame. They blossom in July and August. 148 JULY. ICE PLANT. The Mesembryanthemum crystallinum, or Ice Plant, is a curious annual, remarkable only for the transparent glandular substances thickly distributed over its surface, resembling frozen dew-drops: hence the name Ice Plant. This plant is a native of Greece, and grows freely in our garden borders, during the summer, expanding its white blossoms in the months of July and August. It may be raised from seed, sown on a hot-bed any time in spring, and trans- planted to the borders in June : a sandy loam is the best soil for it. BALSAMS. These, when double, are very beautiful; there are many varieties, but not yet so defined as to have acquired many distinguishing names. The striped flowered Balsams are most in esteem, and in order to produce them, great care must be taken to save the seed from the best flowering plants, on which no plain flower should be suffered to remain. COXCOMBS. Coxcombs have been recently grown to a very large size by the application of stimulating manures and continued heat. These plants, during the sum- mer, are showy ornaments of the green-house, but will succeed perfectly, as tender annuals, on prepared beds in the open ground. The compost should be JULY. 149 formed of two-thirds rotten stable dung, or other strong manure, and one-third rich mould, placed full eighteen inches thick on the beds. The seeds of the Coxcomb are to be sown on a hot-bed in April, where the young plants should continue until the time of transplanting, and the weaker of them should be thinned out as they advance in growth. Towards the middle of June, if the weather is mild, such plants as appear with large flat stems, and of a very vigor- ous growth, should be selected for being placed on the beds, in which they should be planted a foot and a half from each other, and watered ; the beds should then be top-dressed with rotten dung well sifted, and spread full two inches thick over the whole sur- face : the plants will require a canvass or a calico shade, during the time of flowering ; if manure in solution is applied, it will prove highly advantageous in increasing the size and heightening the color of the flowers. Coxcombs thus managed will produce plants of two feet or more in height, and flowers of a foot or sixteen inches in extent : the beds pre- senting, in July and August, a splendid assemblage of gorgeous flowers, producing a noble effect. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. These plants flower during a great portion of the year, and even in a mild winter present a brilliant display, if trained against a sunny wall : the different kinds should be well intermixed with each other. They succeed best in the conservatory. There are forty varieties of the Chrysanthemum, of which- some are indeed very beautiful. 13* 150 JULY. MYRTLES. " There will I make thee beds of roses, With a thousand fragrant posies ; A cap of flowers, and a girdle, Embroidered all with leaves of myrtle." The Myrtles are pretty half-hardy evergreen shrubs, and, if grown in sheltered situations, will, after a few seasons, become almost acclimated, and particularly the large-leaved, resist the generality of our winters. In a moist peaty situation near the sea, and exposed to the south, they will grow to ten and twelve feet in height or more, and produce a profusion of flowers (Turing the autumn, and even a portion of the winter. They increase freely by cuttings at almost any season, but autumn is the best time for propagation ; there is a double flower- ing variety cultivated chiefly in the green-house : it is much inferior, however, to the single, both in size and appearance. All Myrtles require a great deal of water. MONTHLY CALENDAR. AUGUST. Transplant the rooted layers of PINKS and SWEET WILLIAMS, and pot such as were layers last month and have struck root. Sow TEN WEEK STOCK for spring bloom, and MIGNONETTE to flower late in the year. Sow POLYANTHUS seed ; shift choice AURICULAS into fresh earth. Take up the bulbs of the IRIS, FRITTILLARY,MARTAGON, CROWN IMPERIAL and PEONY, if an increase of them be wanted. Plant RANUNCULUSES in beds or pots, to blossom in November. Bud CAMELLIAS, ROSES, DOUBLE ALMONDS, and other flowering shrubs. Plant cuttings of CHRYSANTHEMUMS in pots. Plant cuttings of GERANIUMS and other soft-wooded plants, and pot such as have struck early in the season. Take onsets of ALOES. Shift the tender sorts of EXOTICS into fresh pots, and also the hardy green-house plants. AUGUST. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. Transplant the layers of Pinks and Sweetwil- liams, which have by this time rooted, if they were layered in proper season. CARNATIONS. The beginning of this month is as good as the latter end of the last for layering Carnations, if this was not done last month. Those which were then layered, and have now struck, should be potted, some in light rich compost, others in one of poor quality, as in the latter there is less danger of their running to a plain or uniform color. All the Dianthus tribe succeed best in calca- reous* soil, probably from its absorbent nature, for they dislike stagnant moisture about their roots. Lime rubbish is a good ingredient in their compost As the Carnation (the criteria of which will be given in the proper place) is prominent in the flo- rist's estimation, every care should be taken with its culture. Let the plants now be neatly staked, carded, and dressed, and placed on a stage so elevated as to display their beauties to advantage, and shaded by an awning from the mid-day sun ; this veil will long * Lime-stone soil, or that which contains a portion of lime-stone, or marble, in its composition. 154 AUGUST. preserve their loveliness of complexion, and almost double the periods of their existence ; and if a coat of moss be laid on the surface of the pot, an equable degree of moisture will be kept up ; besides, this will give a dressy look to the plants. As the bloom is always most perfect and vigorous in young plants, I would recommend unremitting care in providing a continued stock for succession, by layering, preparatory to which, the surface- mould should be removed as far as the roots, and replaced by some very fine earth that is also rich and fresh. The success of the operation principally depends on the season. SOWING SEEDS. Some recommend the sowing of Auricula seed. I am inclined to think that it is better not to sow it until January. Polyanthus seed, however, being less estimable and more hardy, may be sown, if it were only for the sake of experiment. Ten Week Stock sown now, will blow in spring. In order to preserve a double strain of Ten Week Stock, protect the plants of the seed now sown, through the winter, and plant them out late in the next spring, in order to save seed from them. This practice prevails on the continent, where a superior species is obtained. Mignonette sown now, will flower in winter. AURICULAS. Clear these from decayed leaves, and shift them into fresh pots, placed in the shade until they shall have rooted. AUGUST. 155 This removal into fresh earth will invigorate the plants and improve their flowering next season. DAHLIAS. Stake and thin out Dahlias to improve the bloom of the remaining ones. REMOVAL OF BULBS. Those which you want to increase ought now to be taken up if their leaves be decayed ; should they remain longer in the ground, fresh fibres will have pushed, and it would injure the plants, in such case, to remove or disturb them ; but taking up and immediately replacing them in fresh manured and stirred up earth, before they push out fresh fibres, will serve them. Ranunculuses may be planted in beds or pots to flower in November a month in which they will be most welcome visitors. Gather flower-seeds as they ripen, and cut down the stalks of all plants which have done flowering, and secure to stakes or hoops all the tall plants, which without such support would be liable to injury from wind. Water all your annuals regularly and moderately, if they require it, and keep your beds, borders, and walks, free from weeds. Water also your green-house plants, particularly those in peat-mould neglect will be speedily fatal to Heaths in particular. Syringe or sprinkle abundantly, in dry and warm weather, your tender annuals in the green-house or hot-bed. 156 AUGUST, PRINCIPAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS IN FLOWER, Carnations, Tiger Lily, Liatris, Orange Asclepia, Campanula, Baptisia australis, Chelone, Perennial Sunflower, Monarda, Blue Day Lily, Phlox, Dragon Head, Lobelia, Epilobium, &c. &c. PRINCIPAL GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN FLOWER. Aloes, Erythrina, Tuberose, Cactus speciosus, Cereus speciosissirnus, Crassula, Hoya, Double Al- thoea frutex, Fuchsia microphylla, Calceorarius, Streptocarpus, Azalea, Trivei'ranea coccinea, Blood Flower, Atamasco Lily, Erythrina, &c. (all within doors ;) Lobus, Salvia, Heaths, &c. (in the open air.) SHRUBS. Yucca gloriosa, Clethra, Andromeda, Itea, Ca- nopus, Sumach, Japan and Chinese Roses, Ever- green and Scarlet Honeysuckles, &c. Observations on some of the Plants mentioned in this Month. CARNATIONS. "They postpone the opening of their odoriferous treasures till they are under no more apprehensions of having their spicy cells rifled by rude blasts, or drowned in incessant showers." CRITERION OF A GOOD CARNATION. A fine Carnation should have the stem of suffi- cient stability to support its blossom without droop- AUGUST. 157 ing, the usual height of which is from two and a half to three feet: some are, however, much taller, but they appear awkward and out of proportion. The flowers ought not to be too double, or they will burst and be ill-formed, but consist of just enough of regularly arranged petals to fill the flower-cup to the crown or centre, without appearing to crush each other, or to be too crowded. The outer or guard petals must be large, and have sufficient strength to maintain a horizontal position and sup- port the interior ones, the disposition of which should be of such regularity as to produce the most perfect symmetry of appearance, and display their vivid coloring to advantage. The edge of each petal should be perfectly even, and without the slightest in- dentation or inclination to fringe be, as it is termed, completely rose-leaved. Whether the flowers are bizarred or flaked, the colors should be evenly dis- tributed through them, neither the ground color nor striping appearing to predominate. The white or ground must be of the utmost purity, with a lustrous appearance, and the stripes cleanly drawn through it, and diverging with the most perfect regularity from the centre to the edge of the blossom. Bizarres, or flowers with two or more colors on the white ground, are generally more preferred than the flakes, or such as have but one. The flakes are, however, very beautiful, and present a bolder con- trast of color than the others. A good Piccotee should be similar, in the construction of its flowers, to the Carnation, except that the petals are some- times slightly indented or even serrated, but they ought not by any means to be coarsely notched. The colors are fancifully distributed in a multiplicity of small stripes or dots, upon either a white or yel- low ground, while the Carnation is striped only, and 14 158 AUGUST. should be perfectly free from dots and small lines, or any break of the color of the stripe. Where the corrolla or pod is longest, the flower is best, and blossoms with the least trouble. Those which are thinnest of leaves produce most seed. The clove has the highest perfume, and those bi- zarres in which the clove-streak prevails, are the sweetest. TIGER LILY. "Emblem of human pride that fades away, Of earthly joy that blooms but to decay." The Tiger flower is a most ornamental Iris, and contributes much during the summer and autumn months to the beauty of the flower borders, by an almost inexhaustible succession of pretty spotted blossoms, which, however, are very fugacious, last- ing but a few hours ; they expire under the influence of the mid-day sun, and, unlike their sister flowers of the garden, they seem to shun the solar rays, and only expand their blossoms to the breeze of night : every morning presents a fresh succession, which, ere we have well seen and admired them, are gone. Though this plant is a native of Mexico, the bulbs will stand our winters, if they are placed sufficiently deep in the soil ; the safer plan, however, is to take them up in autumn, and replant them any time during spring. They thrive best in a compost of sand and peat, but grow sufficiently well in the common gar- den soil, and increase with great rapidity by offsets. They may also be easily propagated by seeds. AUGUST. 159 ERYTHR1NA. "Whilst Erythrina o'er her tender flower Bends all her leaves and braves the sultry hour." The Erythrina, or Coral tree, is deciduous, and a dwarf species of a magnificent tropical genus, of which some attain the size of forest trees. It makes strong shoots about three feet long, and terminated by very splendid spikes of scarlet flowers, twelve inches long and upwards : it should be kept dry in winter after the leaves fall, cut down in spring, re- potted, and brought into a higher temperature. TUBEROSE. "The Tuberose with her silvery light, ****** Is called the mistress of the night." The Tuberose is a native of India, and in this climate rarely produces flowers for a second sea- son ; the bulbs are therefore annually imported, (from Italy,) though it has sometimes happened that they have flowered in two successive seasons, with more trouble than they are worth. The double variety is chiefly cultivated, and highly valued for its grateful fragrance, one or two plants being suffi- cient to perfume an entire green-house. The bulbs may be put down in March, in pots filled with a compost of sand, leaf-mould and loam, placed in a hot-bed, until they are nearly in flower, when they should be removed to the green-house or the drawing-room. 160 AUGUST. CACTUS SPECIOSUS, AND CEREUS SPECIO- SISSIMUS. " Refulgent Cerea, at the dusky hour, She seeks with pensive step the mountain bower." These are splendid succulent plants, unrivalled in beauty, particularly the latter, as large as a gob- let, and resembling it in shape, and of a rich color, scarlet and crimson blended. These should be lodged near the sash at the top of the green-house, (that position being warmer than a lower one,) to forward their bloom. Darwin says, that " the Cactus grandiflorus, or Cereus, is a native of Jamaica, and that it emits a most fragrant odor for a few hours in the night, and then closes for ever." CACTUS ACKERMANNII Resembles the former in shape and size, and rivals it in beauty, but differs in its tints. THE ALTILEA FRUTEX Is deciduous, and though not strictly a green- house plant, will not bloom well in this climate freely exposed; it produces a profusion of double and very showy flowers, like those of the Hollyhock in shape and size, varying in color from white to purple. There are two varieties, the white and red, which especially require a green-house heat to bloom in perfection. AUGUST. 161 FUCHSIA MICROPHYLLA. The leaves of this plant are pigmy : it flowers abundantly throughout the vear, and seeds very freely. CALCEOLARIA, OR SLIPPERWORT, So called from a fancied resemblance to a slipper. Of this many ornamental varieties have been intro- duced from South America. The flowers vary from yellow to purple, and blossom during the entire summer. Many of them are sufficiently hardy to bear exposure in this climate. AZALEA. This is a beautiful exotic from China, flowering in the green-house early in spring, but continuing in bloom during the present month. Some species are white, others purple, blue, scarlet, and yellow. The white variety seems hardy enough for the open air. STREPTOCARPUS, A green-house plant from Southern Africa, bear- ing delicate sky-blue and purple striped flowers in succession throughout the summer. 14* 162 AUGUST. YUCCA GLORIOSA AND YUCCA GLAUCESCENS. These, which are vulgarly called ADAM'S NEEDLE, are frutescent plants of the Aloe tribe, natives of America, exhibiting at this season noble pyramids of whitish flowers, from four to six inches in height. The blossom continues for a long time. They re- quire a warm border and light rich mould. MONTHLY CALENDAR. SEPTEMBER. Remove herbaceous plants. Plant CROCUSES, SNOWDROPS, PERSIAN IRIS, DOG-TOOTH VIO- LET, FRITTILLARIES, CROWN IMPERIALS, NARCISSUS, &c. Shelter AURICULAS. Take off CARNATION layers. Save flower seeds. House EXOTICS. Plant cuttings of CHINESE ROSES and other flowering shrubs. Transplant hardy EVERGREENS and shrubs. Increase PINKS by dividing the roots. SEPTEMBER. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. Continue the cares of the preceding month weeding, watering, staking, &c. Look over the parterres and shrubberies, in order to renew or repair whatever may be deficient. Remove herbaceous plants, (if the weather be moist,) from one part of your flower-beds or bor- ders to others, as deficiencies may require ; indeed whether an increase of plants be wanted or not, a separation of the roots, when they become too much united and multiplied, is necessary. The outer offsets and weaker slips should be planted in a nursery, apart, until they acquire strength. This is also a good time for propagating by slips and parting of the roots, herbaceous flower- ing plants, Peonies, Flag Irises, &c. Watering will be necessary, if the weather prove dry. Plant Crocuses, and all the bulbs named in the calendar of this month, but not Hyacinths, Ranuncu- luses, or Anemones, which would run the risk, from too great forwardness, of being altogether cut off in the flowering seasons. The same caution must be given regarding Tulips, except the early dwarf kind, which may be put down, at the end of the month, in warm situations. If protected during the winter, in the manner before recommended, they will flower in March. The following extract, from a Note of Darwin's, may be acceptable to some of my readers : " What 166 SEPTEMBER. is in common language called a bulbous root, is by Linnaeus termed the hybernacle or winter lodge of the young plant. These bulbs in every respect re- semble buds, except in their being produced under ground, and include the leaves and flowers in min- iature which are to be expanded in the ensuing spring. By cautiously cutting in winter through the concentric coats of a Tulip root, longitudinally from the top to the base, and taking them off successively, the whole flower of the next summer's Tulip is beautifully seen by the naked eye, with its petals, pistils, and stamens. The flowers exist in other bulbs in the same manner as in Hyacinths, but the individual flowers of these, being less, they are not so easily dissected or so conspicuous tqihe naked eye. " duick flies fair Tulipa the loud alarms, And folds her infant closer in her arms ; In some lone cave's secure pavilion lies, And waits the courtship of serener skies." AURICULAS. At the end of the month, these must be taken to their sheltered positions as soon as the weather indi- cates a change of season ; however constructed or contrived their coverings may be, it is essential that they should have abundance of air. PINK BEDS. Prepare these of rich compost, according to the directions given, and put into them pink pipings. SEPTEMBER. 167 CARNATION LAYERS. These, if rooted, should now be taken off the last growth, and put into pots under frames, which must be opened every fine day : too much moisture be- ing injurious to Carnations, all the species of which are natives of dry situations. Those which were potted in the last month, should now be hardened by exposure. If any of the layers be but indifferently struck, a gentle bottom heat and shading will soon establish them with abundance of roots. The pipings of Car- nations are also to receive the same attention : they are, however, generally more hardy than plants pro- duced from layers. THE SAVING OF FLOWER SEEDS. Many sorts will now be fully ripe, and will conse- quently require to be carefully saved and preserved. EDGINGS. Trim and plant edgings. Gentianella may now be planted out for new edgings, or to repair old ones ; it produces a beautiful little flower : and if you will have Box, in spite of what I have said in my observations about it in February, this is the best month for planting it but do not clip it until March. 168 SEPTEMBER. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE GREEN-HOUSE. At the latter end of the month dress your green house plants and return them to their winter quar- ters, according to their degrees of delicacy begin- ning with the most tender, before chilly nights and cold dews shall have checked their growth and dis- colored their foliage. Leave the hardier ones out as long as the weather will permit, as they would become slender and weak by premature confine- ment. Before they are taken in, the surface-mould in the pots should be removed, and replaced with fresh earth, and those plants which require more room should now be changed to large pots. In effecting this removal, it has latterly been the practice to raise the surface higher towards the neck of the plant than at the rim of the pot, to prevent the stem, at the very point where it is most liable to it, from be- coming rotten by the lodgment of dampness around it. This precaution is particularly necessary for Heaths, and some other tender Cape or Australian plants. This operation should take place ten days or a fortnight before they are brought in, that they may recover from any check which they may have received in consequence. Tie and stake them up neatly. Shift Chrysanthemums into flowering pots. These plants repay all the attention that you bestow on them, and at any season can vie with the proudest ; but in winter they are unrivalled. Bud Camellias. Pot Roses for forcing. Repair your conservatories, if they be in any respect out of order ; clear out all withered stalks and leaves, and preserve a universal neatness within it. SEPTEMBER* 169 THE SHRUBBERY. Plant cuttings of Chinese Roses and other flow- ering shrubs as soon as the wood has ripened ; also plant cuttings of Evergreens, taking care to water and shade them if necessary. Always make your cut (when taking cuttings from the same year's wood) straight across the bottom of the joint, as they are found to strike more freely from the lower end : propagation by slipping is as good, if not a better method. This is done by pulling with a smart twitch (but not with such force as to hurt the parent tree) the young shoot from the mother branch, so as to draw with it the peel or joint inserted in it. When putting down the cuttings, strip the leaves from the lower part, about one half of the length, and stick them in earth, pressing it firmly either with the foot or setting stick. TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS. This is evidently the best month for transplanting in sandy and other absorbent soils, hardy shrubs and Evergreens, and early ripening deciduous shrubs, as Roses ; but all the deciduous kinds, however, should not be moved yet, as some of them require more time to terminate their annual growth. Water them well after removal, and stake them. You may now propagate shrubs by layers. PRINCIPAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS IN FLOWER. German and China Asters, Liatris, Celsie, Che- lone, Golden Rod, Colchicum, African and French Marygolds, Saffron Crocus, Coreopsis tinctoria, Epilobium, Dodonea, Rudbeckias, Dahlias, Cycla- mens, Lobelia fulgens, Belladonna Lily, &c. 170 SEPTEMBER. GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN FLOWER. Guernsey Lily, Cape Crinum, Bouvardia, Plum- bago capensis, Bignonia grandiflora, Treoirana coc- cinea, Streptocarpus rexii, and the greater part of those enumerated in the preceding month. SHRUBS IN FLOWER. Althoea frutex, Colutea, Itea, Heaths, Helianthe- mum, St. John's Wort, Chinese Privet, Chinese Musk, and Quatre Saisons Roses, Arbutus, and Lauristinus. HIBISCUS SPECIOSUS, OR SCARLET MALLOW. This splendid and showy plant, of which there have been described more than seventy species, is a native of our Southern States, and flourishes well in the open borders of the garden as far north as Phila- delphia and New- York. It grows from five to nine feet in height. It flowers in August and September, and continues in bloom until the appearance of frost The root of this plant is perennial, and the stem herbaceous ; each branch terminates in three (rarely four) separate flowers, which are large, and of a rich shining carmine-red, as seen by inspecting the draw- ing, at the head of the spring months. It may be obtained from the seed, and will flourish quite well in our open gardens ; a moist soil suits it best, hence in its native clime it is frequently found by the side of rivers, and in other moist situations. It is abun- dant in South Carolina. G. Jfibiscus SEPTEMBER. 171 THE GUERNSEY LILY. "When Heaven's high vault condensing clouds deform, Fair Amaryllis flies the incumbent storm, Seeks with unsteady step the shelter'd vale, And turns her blusliing beauties from the gale." This Lily is a beautful crimson Amaryllis, culti- vated to great perfection in the Island of Guernsey, and thence exported to every part of Europe. A story goes that some roots being cast on the shore of that island from a wrecked East Indiaman, found the soil so congenial that they flourished there with- out care or observation, until the beauty of their flowers attracted attention. It is now to be found in the London seed shops, being annually imported in the autumn from Guernsey. CAPE CRINUM. This is an aquatic from Bengal, but it blossoms perfectly well with us, if placed in a cistern under a south wall. CLIMBERS. Clematis, Evergreen Trumpet, Chinese and Japan Honeysuckle, Wisteria frutescens, Passion Flower, and Jasmine, one of the peculiarities of which is, that its fragrance, like that of the Rose, is most pow- erful in the morning. "The twining Jasmine, and the blushing Rose, With lavish grace their morning scents disclose ; The smelling Tub'rose and Jonquil declare, The stronger impulse of an evening air." ROUTINE WORK. Clear away decayed leaves, weeds, stalks, &c. ; cut off all dead stems from plants which have ceased flowering, and dig up all the borders and beds from which flowers have disappeared. Trench up ground for the reception of Tulips and Hyacinths next month or November. MONTHLY CALENDAR. OCTOBER. At the end of this month: Plant ANEMONES, TULIPS, CROCUSES, HYACINTHS, TURKEY RA- NUNCULUSES and JONQUILS. Transplant various fibrous-rooted plants, and the knob-rooted, such as IRISES and PEONIES. Save seeds. Transplant deciduous trees and shrubs, and hardy Evergreens. Remove green-house plants from their summer stations into the open air. OBSERVATIONS FOR OCTOBER. The garden labors of this and the preceding month are in many respects similar. The planting and transplanting of many bulbous and fibrous-root- ed plants may be executed in either of these months ; the state of the season, and other circumstances, such as opportunity and leisure, influencing the florist as to the precise time for those operations. In transplanting the hardy fibrous-rooted plants, As- ters, Canterbury Bells, Hollyhocks, Monkshood, Po- lyanthuses, Daisies, &c w intermix them in the bor- ders so as to preserve a varied succession through the flowering season, for it is bad taste to have one portion of the garden displaying a profusion of crowded beauties, and another comparatively with- out them. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. At the latter end of this month you may put down your Hyacinths, Tulips, and autumnal plantation of Ranunculuses and Anemones. From that period 15* 174 OCTOBER. to the middle of November is the proper season for planting them. For particular directions see No- vember. HYACINTHS May now be set in flowering glasses ; also Soleil d'Or Narcissus, double Jonquils, and Persian Iris. The water should be up to the neck of the root, and frequently changed, in order to prevent the accumu- lation of green scum, which clogs the pores of the roots, and for the removal of the excretions which become offensive, and would injure them ; fresh rain water is the best for this purpose. In changing it, incline the bulb to one side, without drawing out the roots. Give as much air and light as possible, and only a temperate degree of warmth. Some prefer planting these roots in pots ; in such case, choose light sandy compost, and plant them no deeper than the middle of the bulb. In the choice of your Hyacinth roots, let them be middle sized, solid, and neither broad nor with a wide bottom. In short, let them be young and healthy. Choose dark-colored glasses, as white ones, by the admission of too much light, will injure the functions of the fibre. CARNATIONS CARNATION LAYERS. Take care of your Carnation pots, placing them under frames or hoops covered as before directed. Place your Carnation layers in frames open to the air on every fine day, for damp weather is most injurious to them ; a bed of coal ashes under them is the best protection against wetness and slugs. OCTOBER. 176 AURICULAS. Bring these also into their winter quarters, and keep them dry. TRANSPLANTING FIBROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. Among these you are to include the pipings of Pinks which have been rooted this season, and the Carnation layers which are intended to stand in beds. Pinks and Carnations so treated will flower better than those planted in spring. Separate Sweetwilliams and the cuttings of Wall- flowers which have rooted during the season, and put them into borders. This or the preceding month will answer better for transplanting, and in- creasing by division, almost all the fibrous-rooted herbaceous plants. PROTECT DAHLIAS Which are still in bloom. As a precaution to preserve the buds at the base of the stalk (on which your hopes for the next year depend) from a severe frost, cover them all round with some light substance, two or three inches deep, and when they cease to be ornamental, take them up, and either preserve them in some airy place, secure from frost, or lay them by the heels as directed in November. 176 OCTOBER. SAVING OF FLOWER SEEDS. Save flower seeds, particularly those of Annual Stock and German Asters. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE GREEN-HOUSE. Pot Roses, &c. for forcing. Bud Camellias. Pot Jacobea Lilies, Lissias Gla- diolus oxalis, Crinums, Antholyzas, Guernsey Lily, and Pancratiums. Complete the housing of your green-house plants, and when arranging them, let your first care be to consult their respective natures, placing the more hardy ones and least liable to injury from moisture (in damp weather) in the back part, the more delicate and herbaceous in the front, in the most airy situa- tion, and then let them be so judiciously disposed as to conceal their mutual defects, display each other's peculiar beauties, and form one varied yet harmo- nious picture of tints and shades. The early flowering Chrysanthemum should es- peciallv be interspersed among the other plants, for effect/ THE SHRUBBERY. Transplant hardy Evergreens, shrubs, and decid- uous trees, the former early in the month, the lat- ter at any time during the winter, if it be mild. Evergreens, in order to establish themselves, require some warmth in the soil and air. On the whole, I OCTOBER. 177 consider this season preferable to March for trans- planting flowering shrubs, &c. as the moisture of the earth now, on an average of years, will insure their taking root quickly a problematical matter in April, at least without artificial watering, which it may be troublesome and inconvenient to supply. In seasons of frost or boisterous weather, the case is of course different. Our stock of flowers is now decreasing rapidly ; yet amidst the general decline, some still stand erect, and like departing friends, become doubly dear to us. PRINCIPAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS IN FLOWER. Asters, Celsia, Marvel of Peru, Rudbeckia, Col- chicum,Pentstemon,Dropswort, Spiderwort, Lobel- lias, Altheas, Dahlias, early Chrysanthemums, and Lupinus mutabilis, with a few others. GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN FLOWER. A variety of the Pelargoniums, Erythrinas, Fuch- sia, Calceolaria, Melaleuca, Salvia splendens, Ele- thra arborea, Ericas, Jasmine, Oxalis, (floribunda, variabilis, stricta, and grandiflora.) SHRUBS AND TREES IN FLOWER. Crista Galli and Mezereon, Heaths, Jasmines, Magnolia, Bignonia, Raphia, Passion Flower, Cle- 178 OCTOBER. matis, Chinese Noisette and Bourbon Roses, Rubus rosaefolius, Double Blossomed Dwarf and Irish Furze, Chaste Tree, with variously colored leaves ; ornamental Scarlet Dyers and other Oaks, Sumach, Verbena, &c. ROUTINE WORK. Preserve order and cleanliness in your gravel- walks, beds, and shrubberies. Regulate in the latter every disorderly growth, and dig up all the borders which are without flowers, both for the sake of neatness, and for the reception of such plants as you design to place in them. Attend still to the constant mowing and rolling of your turf. Gather up leaves as they fall : if placed in large heaps they will be serviceable for hot-beds, or will form valuable matter for composts. CONCLUSION. We have arrived at the termination of the floral year, and painfully perceive that the once noble and brilliant array of out-of-door flowers and shrubs is now reduced to a small and scattered remnant "like the gleaning of grapes when the vintage is done." And we are serious, or ought to be so, " for we all do fade like a leaf," we would have wished to the beautiful flowers we have seen, a longer ex- istence, an uninterrupted bloom, but in vain " the wind passeth over them, and they are gone." "Let us contemplate the distribution of flowers through the several periods of the year, were they all to blossom together, there would be at once a promiscuous throng, and at once a total privation : we should scarce have an opportunity of adverting to the delightful qualities of half, and must soon lose the agreeable company of them all ; but now since every species has a separate post to occupy, and a distinct interval for appearing, we can take a lei- surely and minute survey of each succeeding set. We can view and review their forms, and enter into a more intimate acquaintance with their charming accomplishments. What goodness is this, to pro- vide such a series of gratifications for mankind, and to take care that our paths should be, in a manner, 180 CONCLUSION. incessantly strewed with flowers ! and what wisdom to bid every one of these insensible beings know the precise juncture for their coming forth ! so that no actor on a stage can be more exact in performing his part, can make a more regular entry, or a more punctual exit. " Who emboldens the Daffodil to venture abroad in February, and to trust her flowering gold with inclement and treacherous skies ? Who informs the various tribes of fruit-bearing blossoms, that vernal suns, and a more genial warmth, are fittest for their delicate texture ? Who teaches the Clove to stay till hotter beams are prepared to infuse a spicy rich- ness into her odours, and tincture her complexion with the deepest crimson? Who disposes these beautiful troops into such orderly bodies ; retarding some, and accelerating others ? Who has instructed them to file off with such perfect regularity, as soon as the duty of their respective station is over ? and when one detachment retires, who gives the signal for another immediately to advance ? Who, but that unerring Providence, which from the highest thrones of angels, to the very lowest degrees of ex- istence, orders all things in * number, weight and measure.' " Hervey. THE END. , 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. a REC'D LD - NOV 20 1356 NOV L 4 l.qqg LD 21-100m-6,'56 (B9311slO)476 University of California Berkeley YB