BANCROFT LIBRARY THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA V VTO^U G ^ -n ^/ ^ , HUNTING THE COUGAR See Page 241. HUNTING SPORTS IV THK WEST, COMPRISING ADVENTURES OF THE MOST CELEBRATED HUNTERS AND TRAPPERS. BT CECIL B. HARTLEY. PHILADELPHIA: PUBLISHED BY BRADLEY & CO., No. 66 NORTH FOURTH STREET. 1865. Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1859, bj G. G. EVANS, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. STEREOTYPED BY JESPKR HARDING ft SOX, PHILADELPHIA. T. BINEX, PRINTER. Bancroft PREFACE. THIS collection of stories is designed to exhibit the western hunters and trappers in their true character. The narratives are all matters of fact and not of fancy, and they have been selected from a great mass of a similar character, on a principle of choice, which the compiler believes will be approved by his readers ; the principle, namely, of displaying all the different phases of the western hunter's perilous and adventurous life, as far as was practicable in so small a space. The reader, it is believed, will find in the volume a sufficient amount of novelty and variety, to repay him for the time spent in perusing its pages ; and he will, probably, on closing it, come to the same conclusion which the compiler arrived at long since, namely, that hunting adventures with bears, panthers, wild cats, and other animals of a similar description, are, on the whole, enjoyed much better as one reads them in a book, - ' (7) 8 PREFACE. by a quiet fireside, than as one who goes through them in the forest or field. Tastes, however, differ on this point. Books of this class are peculiarly fascinating to a large class of readers, especially young persons, who are al- ways delighted with the narratives which ahound in wild adventures, thrilling incidents, and hairbreadth escapes. Such narratives, besides being very entertaining, are not without a certain share of positive utility. They display to advantage certain characteristics which are not unworthy of study and imitation, such as patience and perseverance under great difficulties ; coolness, and presence of mind in the midst of threatening dangers, endurance of fatigue, hunger, thirst, and cold, with- out murmuring; and that hardy spirit of enterprise, which has led to some of the noblest undertakings re- corded in the history of our country. The early pioneers of the West were all hunters. They acquired in^the pursuit of the bear, the panther, and the bi- son, those habits of courage, coolness, presence of mind, and indifference to danger, which made them such formidable enemies to the Indians, and such efficient defenders of the infant settlements, which are now large towns and cities. Boone, the Wetzels, Kenton, Hughs, Clarke, and a thousand other heroes of the West, all commenced their career of victory and glory in the character of hunters ; PREFACE. 9 and they showed themselves worthy of the hardy school in which they were educated. Hunting is useful, not only for the taking of game and the killing of animals of prey, but for the excellent physical education which it confers, and the useful, moral, and intellectual traits which it developes. CONTENTS. PAW Grand Circular Hunt 13 Forest Life Play 21 Forest Life Peril M 34 The Prairie 39 Great Pine Swamp 47 Hunting on the Arkansaw 59 Hunting in Arkansas 82 Hunting Bears and Panthers 103 A Kentuckian's Account of a Panther Fight 118 Angling for Bass 119 Hunting on the Ozark Mountains 124 Bear and Panther Hunting 152 Drives 194 Hunting Adventures of Ichabod Merritt 200 Perilous Adventures of Mr. Ross Cox 205 Hunting on the Columbia River 223 Shooting Wild Turkeys 230 Hunting the Cougar 235 The Traveler and the Pole-Cat 245 Deer Hunting..., 251 (ID 12 CONTENTS. mm Scipio and the Bear 251) Hunting the Grizzly Bear 266 Hunting the Grizzly Bear in his Den 273 Curious Method of Hunting the Deer 281 Bear Hunting Adventure of Ichabod Merritt 282 Ugly Adventure with a Bear 284 Adventures in the Backwoods 285 Hunting a Black Bear in his Den ., 295 Adventures of an English Sportsman on the Prairies 298 Bear Hunting in Arkansas 309 Colonel David Crockett's Encounter with a Bear 319 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. GRAND CIRCULAR HUNT. THE spirit of the Hunters of Kentucky, says the Hes- perian, is not not yet extinct. Rapid as has been the advance of population in the West, and the progress of, what is called refined life, during the last quarter of a century evident as is the aversion or indifference to manly sports, among the great body of the descendants and successors of the Pioneers much as silks and broadcloths have superseded " fac- tory" and "home-made," and delicate canes and cush- ioned curricles have taken the place of rifles and the good old horseback exercises ; yet one's eyes are now and then gladdened with the sight of a real hunting-shirt upon the back of a true Anakim of the ancient stock, and one's ears occasionally delighted with accounts of attempts to revive and keep up the manly old sports of our fathers. The following is an account of a regular old fashioned Circular Hunt, which took place in Kentucky, several years since. The readers of Dr. Livingstone's travels, will recognize in it a resemblance to certain hunting sports which he mentions : We rose in the morning at an early hour, to make (13) 14 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. preparation for the sports of the day. The major, who was to be the Grand Master of the Hunt, selected his best rifles, and we went to work moulding bullets. The notes of preparation were sounded in every direction, the ne- groes laughed, the dogs barked, the horses neighed, and all was bustle and confusion. All the arrangements had been made the previous night, and every man must be at his post by sunrise. The circle was to be three miles iu diameter ; and all the neighbors within a half-day's ride, were to assist at the ceremony. The centre of the cir- cle was within sight of the major's farm. Here was a large pond or lake, which, being frozen over, had been chosen by universal consent, for the place of meeting. As our starting point was at a considerable distance, the major gave directions for the house to be closed, the windows to be barred and protected from any danger from the infuriated animals ; then bidding the females keep close in their asylum, and leaving one of the ne- groes with a rifle to guard it, we started off. Little Willie, the major's eldest son, a boy of about twelve years of age, after hard entreaty, was permitted to ac- company us, under the care of one of the negroes. A small rifle, suitable to his age and strength, was fur- nished, and he marched before us, proud of his permis- sion, and boasting of his intended glorious warfare on the smaller game. We reached the appointed place, and exactly at the hour commenced our advance. The hunters were placed at a distance of about fifty yards apart, in order that nothing of consequence might escape. Little Willie kept close to his father at first, but getting bolder as we GRAND CIRCULAR HUNT. 15 proceeded, he wandered off ahead, keeping his guardian negro, who was rather old, puffing, and blowing, and ecolding at his temerity: " You young rascal," said the privileged old man, " why you no keep along wid me and de rest of the gemmen ? Shouldn't wonder if a big 'coon or somethin' or 'noder cocht hole ob you drucly." The young gentleman turned up his nose at his monitor, and shouldering his rifle proudly, shot off into a thicket, while the old man started in full chase, venting his spleen on the branches that impeded him. As the forest in which we were stationed was very thickly covered with brush and elm timber, our progress was very slow. Ma- jor Wiley and myself kept as much together as possible. From all parts of the forest we could hear the sharp crack of the rifles, or. the louder reports of the shot- guns, which were carried by the younger portions of the community, to the great terror of squirrels and turkeys, and other small game. Occasionally a deer, wounded by the shot of some of the hunters, would appear flying swiftly among the trees, and over logs, disregarding everything in its flight, and, as it met the formidable line, would speed swiftly back again towards the open place, until it fell from the loss of blood. The howling of the dogs was heard continually from every quarter, as, far in advance of their masters, in the language of the country, they "treed " some animal, and were giving notice of their success. Game was plenty ; foxes and wolves were started from their caves in every direction. The major, who was an excellent shot, was very successful, frequently bringing clown hia mark on the full run. For my part, I generally squat- 16 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. ted behind a log, being a novice, and took aim "when anything was at bay. Old Pompey and little Willie had been absent from the company for more than an hour, but the major, who was well acquainted with the daring spirit of the boy, was perfectly unconcerned. The only danger he feared was, that he might be injured by some straggling shot from some of the hunters. We had stopped near some fallen timber, to examine a hollow in a large oak, in which the major supposed a bear might have retreated, when a startling shriek from a thicket, about three hundred yards in advance, arrested our attention. A crack of a rifle was then heard, and another scream, accompanied with a fierce growling. We started off at a run in the direction of the sounds, which seemed to increase as we came near. The major, who was a tall, powerful man, made his way through the brush, as if there were only so many corn-stalks to im- pede him. There was an open space in the thicket, with a large tree in the centre. The first thing we saw on entering it, was little Willie loading his rifle, and trem- bling and screaming at the same time. A little beyond him was a terrible scene. Old Pompey was lying pros- trate on "the ground, bleeding profusely, and an immense panther crouching upon his body, the claws of one of his paws firmly fastened in his side, while with the other, he was keeping a dog at bay, growling furiously, and shaking his immense tail, as I have seen a cat when in- terrupted in his sport with an unfortunate mouse. Poor Pompey lay perfectly still, and was only saved by the well-timed exertions of his dog, from being in- GRAND CIRCULAR HUNT. 17 stantly torn to pieces. At our approach the panther crouched still closer to the body of his victim, seemingly meditating another leap. The major's rifle was in- stantly leveled, but he was fearful that he might strike the negro, and hesitated. Fortunately, at that instant, a fierce attack of the dog behind, incommoded the pan- ther so much that he thought it best to retreat. With one bound he reached the foot of the tree, and was soon high up among the branches. As he sat crouching in the fork, showing his white teeth, and snapping his eyes until they seemed to emit sparks of fire, the major again raised his piece there was a sharp, quick report, and the animal sprang from the tree with convulsive energy, and fell dead upon the ground. The ball had struck imme- diately between his eyes. We ran and raised Pompey from the ground, and ex- amined his wounds. u Oh, massa Wiley, me dead for sartain," sobbed the poor fellow; "pooh-hoo-hoo." But he was much more frightened than hurt. Though con- siderably torn in his thigh and side, none of his wounds were dangerous. It seemed that Willie, who as usual was ahead of his keeper, had got into the thicket, and seeing the panther among the branches of the tree, was taking aim for a sure shot, when Pompey broke through the bushes, and seeing the panther, uttered a terrific scream that disconcerted the hunter and caused him to miss his aim. Simultaneously with the report, the pan- ther leaped upon the negro, and bore him to the ground. Little Willie^ frightened almost to death, commenced re- loading his gun and screaming for assistance. It hap- pened very fortunately for both, that we were so near. 18 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. Some others of the company now came up, to whom the major consigned Pompey and his young charge to con- duct home, while we again pursued our course. It had been settled that, when the line of the hunt had reached a certain point, for fear of danger, all firing should cease. We were now within sight of the lake. Its surface, which was white with snow, was crowded with the frightened animals, huddled together in a group, or rushing backward and forward, endeavoring to find a point in the line through which to make their escape. But the hunters were so numerous that there was not, at this time, an opening of a yard wide to be discovered. It was now about 11 o'clock, the sun was shining very brightly ; and as the animals flew about the surface of the ice, the snow, tossed up by their feet, sparkled like diamonds. It was a glorious sight to see the line gradually forming upon the edge of the lake the barrels of their rifles reflecting the sunbeams, and almost all arrayed in hunting-shirts, with knives fast- ened to their belts. There were at least two hun- dred and fifty animals, of all kinds, assembled within the enclosure wolves, foxes, deer, bears, and wild cats in abundance. A few of the best hunters were selected to destroy the game. The dogs were called in and fast- ened, and they proceeded to the work of death. Taking stations as near as possible to the group in the centre, the firing commenced. Every shot told, and as the ani- mals fell, the hills around reverberated with the shouts of the joyous hunters. At length the frightened beasts grew furious ; they flew around m all directions, but the line was too formidable for them to break through it, GRAND CIRCULAR HUNT. 19 and, wherever they attempted to escape, they were met by the shouts and more terrible knives of the party. Among the deer was one particularly large and pow- erful. - His antlers appeared at their points, to be at least nine feet apart. His color was a dark red, with only a single white star on his forehead. He made several attempts to escape, but for a while was unsuc- cessful. His eyes flashed with rage. He pawed the ice, until the spot where he stood was entirely free from snow. He shook his antlered head at the hunters, and appeared several times on the point of attempting to break through the thickest portion of the line. Finally, after coursing around the circle several times, at the top of his speed, he made directly towards the line. Their cries were unavailing; nothing seemed now to have power to drive him back. With a tremendous leap, he passed over the heads of the hunters cleared every ob- stacle and was, in an instant, lost to sight in the depths of the forest. This gallant exploit was received with a tremendous cheer ; and I firmly believe that not a hun- ter in the crowd would willingly have harmed him, had he presented the fairest mark for his rifle. Had it been a man, he would have been sent to Congress. Now came the most exciting part of the hunt. The unerring guns of the marksmen had thinned the group considerably ; and those that remained no longer con- tinued in the centre, but kept running about the ice, at a loss how to act. The heat of the sun and the weight of the -animals had considerably weakened the ice. Sud- denly, as a volley was poured into the crowd, they all gathered again in the centre of the lake. There was a 20 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. sharp report of the yielding ice a, crash followed and the whole body of frightened beasts were soused promis- cuously together into the water. Such a struggling, and fighting, and screaming, and fluttering, I could never have conceived of. The deer made desperate efforts to escape : throwing their breasts against the edges of the ice, and endeavoring to obtain a hold upon the slippery surface for their feet. The wolves howled, the foxes barked, and the wild cats fastened their claws into the backs of the deer, and leaped from thence upon the firm ice. I was highly amused at the efforts of a bear the only one that remained. Blowing and snort- ing furiously, he floundered about, and threw his paws in every direction ; now trying to mount, like the more active cats, upon the backs of the deer, then throwing his huge paws lovingly round the neck of the smaller animals, with his whole weight, and popping them un- der. He finally succeeded in mounting upon the ice, and, stopping an instant, uttered a tremendous growl, shook the water from his shaggy sides, and started off at a dog-trot. But danger was in poor bruin's front as well as . his rear. A shot entered his brain before he had advanced ten paces, and he rolled over on his back, moaned a few times, then breathed his last. / When the last of the terrified victims was despatched, the hunters began the work of skinning and scalping. The shore was lined with the bodies of the slain. Par- ties went out and collected those that fell during the pro- gress of the hunt ; and when all were in, they, were counted ; seven bears, eleven panthers, and foxes, deer, and wolves, innumerable, were the result of the day's FOREST LIFE PLAY. 21 Sport. Major Wiley, as master of the ceremonies, di- vided the spoils among the hunters, and all retired to their homes satisfied and contented with their opera- tions. FOREST LIFE-PLAY* BETWEEN the St. Lawrence and Lake Champlain, lies a broad tract of country, covered with dense forests abounding with deer, and pierced by lakes and streams, which, beautiful in themselves, are still more attractive to many from their store of trout. Hills, dales, wood, water, leafy trees, herbage, are enough for some people ; others cannot be happy amid them, without their rod and gun. It was to this latter class that the party belonged, who, one fine morning, found themselves in this lovely district, bent on having a holiday ; guns, dogs, fishing-rods, tents, all were there for a month's scramble in the forest. Part of their equipment consisted of two boats, one for them- selves, the other for their baggage, which was to be sent forward in advance, in order that tents might be pitched for the night, wherever the little company might choose to rest, or linger for a shot. The boats used for this purpose, are small and very light ; for " rapids," that is, cataracts in miniature, interrupt many of the American rivers ; and when the voyagers come to one of these, the * " Wild Scenes in North America.'' HAMMOND. 22 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. boatman pops his craft on his back, and trots off with it to smooth water. Sailing quietly up the river, the tents were pitched, the first night, on the shores of Round Lake, a fine sheet of water about twelve miles in circumference, and sur- rounded by hills ; tall over-hanging trees shading their encampment, which looked westward over the lake. The accommodation within was primitive enough ; their beds being made of green spruce, and fir boughs, while a bun die of the same, bound into a fagot, served for a pillow. While enjoying the evening breeze, in front of their tents, a long wake in the water, evidently caused by some moving body, attracted their notice. Two of the party set off to make out what it was ; and finding it was a deer swimming across, they turned it in the direction of the camp. It bounded ashore close to the tent, sprang right through the group assembled there, and dashed into the thicket behind. A shout greeted his advent among the hunters ; given with such hearty good- will, that in his fright, he leaped, bleating, a dozen feet into the air, and plunged wildly on, crossed the little isle with great jumps, the last being into the water at the other side. Next morning the boatmen were sent onward with the tents and baggage, while their masters made the tour of this lovely little lake. Near its upper part is a deep indentation, bordered by a luxuriant meadow of Nature's own making, where the wild herbage, and water-lilies that skirt its margin, afford a plentiful pasture for the deer.^ They were enjoying it to their heart's content : browsing away at grass and flowers ; (that must be some- TUE DEER 8 LEAP. FOREST LIFE PLAY. 25 thing like bread and butter ; tho urass, plain bread, the flowers, ornamental and savory butter ;) in utter ignor- ance, poor animals ! of the evil designs entertained against them by those two-legged visitors who were so placidly watching them round the corner. The light skiff's were noiselessly paddled to within a short distance of them, and then, coming full into sight, away bounded four-legs in a fright. These boats may always be paddled very close to the deer, by a clever fellow, who will take care to place him- self so that the wind shall not blow from him to the ani- mal, otherwise the keen scent of the deer would instantly make him aware of his dangerous neighbor, to whom he would forthwith say good-bye, with more haste than ceremony. Camping again, on an island in the Upper E as the sun went down, the fish were jumping about so temptingly, in the quiet lake, that the boat was r- out to troll for the large dark trout. Those lake trout are not nearly so handsome as their cousins of the stream and river; but what is wanting in beauty, tlioy make up in size, and in the sport which they conse- quently afford the angler, who needs be a skilful hand, to land his fish after having hooked him. One of these large gentlemen was soon struck, and then began an exciting struggle. Fish, finding he was caught, made off in a hurry to the middle of the lake, bending the rod like a bow in his hasty flight. But Angler was thoroughly up to him. Holding hard on by the butt, he gave him a hundred and fifty feet of line, and by the time he had used that up, Fish began to feel 26 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. tired, though not so much so as to prevent him holding back with all the dogged determination of a mule, when an insinuating effort was made to draw him to the boat. The intimation that he was wanted, was, however, one that he found it impossible to resist. Then he tried a furious rush forwards, and leaping fairly out of the water, seemed to try to shake his jaw free from the hook, dashing as fiercely down towards the bottom, when he found it of no use. The reel sang again, as it whirled round with his efforts to release himself; but it was of no use, the skilful hand at the other end of the line, con- stantly and irresistibly urging him towards the boat. At last he rose gasping to the surface, and was drawn within twenty feet of his persecutors ; when catching a sight of them, gave strength to his previously passive terrors, and away he darted through the water, a hun- dred and fifty feet out. But fish against man has small chance, spite of all his twistings and windings, and the end of it was, that he was handed by means of the land- ing net, into the boat, a splendid ten pound trout ! Beautiful and tempting looked he in the clear water ; but oh, ten times more beautiful and tempting looked he on the breakfast table next morning ! A pleased and happy, nay, conceited man, was his captor. Pursuing their course, hunting, fishing, story-telling, up Bog River, the lower chain of ponds, surrounded by well wooded hills, was approached ; the river here be- coming broad and shallow, with meadows stretching away on either side. Here the oars were shipped, and the boatmen paddled along, sitting in the stern of the boats, in each of whose bows stood a marksman, with FOREST LIFE PLAY. 27 rifle in hand, for deer, who fed quietly on the borders of the winding stream, were now their game. Each one who failed to bring down his game, was to give place to some one else to try his hand, and so on throughout their number, till they had secured a deer. As they stole noiselessly along the ins and outs of the crooked river, a deer was suddenly seen to start from among the reeds, and go dashing and snorting across the shallow water, almost close to the head of the boat. Bang, went one gun after him, sending him at rather a brisker pace up hill among the brushwood. Crack went number two : the only effect being to make him take ra- ther longer jumps as he bounded, snorting with terror, into the woods, leaving his pursuers gaping and staring after him : he had evidently the best of it. The first boat being discomfitted, now gave way to the second, which speedily came in sight of another deer, daintily cropping lilies on the river side. Paddling noiselessly to within a few rods of him, long and anx- iously did the sportsman take aim, but before he could draw the trigger, the deer looked up nervously, lowered his long ears, and after one second's disgusted gaze at his enemy, made for the shore at the top of his speed. Ping, went a rifle bullet after him, but at random, and the usual result of a random shot snsued ; the deer was none the worse, only stimulated by the report into a more railway pace up the bank, where he disappeared among the brushwood. All this was very bad. Two deer, three shots, and venison as far off as ever. It was now the third sportsman's turn. Gliding quietly along till the boat was within fifteen rods of a 28 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. deer, tranquilly browsing his pasture, up went the rifle, one moment's pause, and then the sharp report rang out, and wakened the echoes of the shore and surrounding hills. This time mischief was done ; the animal sprang into the air, and bounded up the steep as though unhurt, instantly disappearing among the brushwood. There he was speedily found, a noble fellow with branching ant- lers, but stone dead, the ball having passed clean through him. Enough for one day ; and beside, not loving killing for mere killing's sake, they had determined to shoot no more deer than were needful to keep the spit turning during their forest life. They were right glad to rest on their rustic beds that night, after the hot fatiguing day. Their van-guard, too, had not been without his share of fatigue ; having, in addition to the same long journey, some parts of which he had had to traverse three times over, killed two deer, whose flesh he had cut up into thin slips, and was drying it for future provender, in the smoke of a wood fire, kindled in a bark hut for the purpose. This mode of preparing meat, is called "jerking " it. In very hot countries, it is dried in the sun, the long thin slips, from three to six yards long, being hung in fes- toons on the branches of some neighboring tree. On the riyer, just above the traveller's camp, was a dam constructed of large logs, and slenderer ones laid cross-wise, on which brushwood and earth were placed, so as to make all tight. Entangled in this, a fine young deer was found dead. The poor creature's foot had slipped between the logs ; struggling to free himself the FOREST LIFE PLAY. 29 leg was broken, and then he must have perished of pain and hunger, a worse death than that from the hunter's rifle. Going down stream in the morning, the trout were abundant but shy. Hooks and baits were dangled be- fore them in the most tempting manner, but not a single mouthful would any trout among them take. Tired of this, a line, with a weight attached, was let down quietly among them, with a number of bare hooks tied to it. A sudden jerk, and one of the largest was hooked by the tail, and, together wkh some half dozen more, actually dragged out of the water in this way, tail foremost ! A novel mode of catching fish, undoubtedly. Hitherto the hunters had made no use of their dogs. Game was so abundant that they were not needed. One coursing match, howe\ had with them that ended pleasantly enough for the deer. The dogs, doubtless, thought differently of it. The deer was upon a small island in the lake by which the hunters were camped ; and having stationed their boats so as to prevent his reaching the shore, if he took to the water, the dogs were sent to the island. In less than five minutes the stillness was broken by the sudden and fierce cry of the dogs, who had just started their game. Away they went in full cry after him, making the hills and woods ring again as he swept along, doub- ling and winding, with them still at his heels. Presently he made his appearance close to the hunters; who, car- ing more for the excitement of the chase than the capture of the deer, received him with such a volley of shouts and halloos, as fairly frightened him back again into the SO HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. woods, whence he had broken cover. From that shelter, however, the dogs soon chased him into the water ; only to be driven back again to dry land. A second attempt to take water was again frustrated, and he retreated, baffled, to the thickets. Thrice was he coursed round the island, the hunters facing him wherever he attempted to escape. At last he plunged desperately into the lake, and swam towards the shore three-quarters of a mile off, his tormentors contriving again to disappoint his design, and compel him to land on a little shrub-covered island, not more than half an acre in size, and that stood at about the distance of half a mile down the lake. When he neared this he sprang on the shore, frantically looking on all sides for some hiding-place, or means of escape. None was to be had ; whichever way- he turned, there was one of the hunters ahead of him, shouting and driv- ing him nearly mad. This way and that rushed the poor beast in vain, till in despair he took up his post among the bushes, that covered a knoll in the middle of the island ; and there, after tossing his head up and down, as he looked from one to another of his enemies, he waited for what might come. He at length quietly lay down. Fortunately for him the hunters had had all they wanted, a coursing match ; and, satisfied with his performance, they rowed away, leaving him to recover at leisure from his exertions. Once rid of them, he swam to the main land, and speedily disappeared among his own forests. Let us see the hunters going to dinner, before we leave them. There are pieces of moose, (a very clumsy kind of deer peculiar to northern countries, and in northern Europe called the elk,) and bear's meat, spitted on long FOREST LIFE PLAY. 31 sticks before a roasting fire. Further, there are fresh trout from the lake, whether caught by the head or tail does not matter; the jerked venison that we have heard of, and savoury salt pork ; all of which, when ready for dishing, are placed on slices of birch-bark fresh peeled from the trees. While for drinkables, there are tea, and excellent spring water, into which people with whom cold water disagrees, (there are such queer folks in the world,) may pop the least possible dose of brandy. Those who, for once and away, cannot contrive to make a dinner on such materials, are recommended to keep out of the woods ! In this lake country, deer are sometimes hunted by candlelight. A box open in front, and large enough to hold several candles, is placed on a posf about four feet high in the bows- of the boat. The marksman sits on a low seat close behind this ; and then, rowing noiselessly in the dark to where the deer are feeding by the edges of the stream, a full blaze is thrown upon the animal, while the hunter, who is quiet in the shadow, takes aim quietly, and "does" for him. But deer, and moose, and bears, are not the only "game "to be found in American forests. In some of them, that comical little pig, the peccary, may be met with ; and a fierce little beast he is too. His teeth are as sharp as knives ; and woe be to man or beast who comes within their reach ; for it is " no surrender " with the peccary. The creatures go about in droves of from ten to fifty ; will attack anything, or anybody that comes in their way, no matter how well armed ; and, as they make a point of fighting it out to the last, till there is not 32 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. one piggy of their number left, people who are acquainted with their manners and habits generally prefer letting them alone. Their mode of "camping" at night is particularly droll. Selecting a large hollow tree, overthrown by some storm of wind, the whole drove will get into it, one after the other, backwards, so that the last stands guard, with his snout to the entrance. And it is when they have be- taken themselves to their lodgings for the night, that the settler, (to whose crops they are terribly destructive,) has his almost sole chance of destroying them. When he finds one of these hollow trees, he soon as- certains whether or not the peccaries have chosen it for their sleeping-place. If they have, he waits with as much patience as he can, for a regular dull, dark, driz- zling day ; for in such weather the peccaries, disliking either a wet jacket, or wet feet, or both, do not stir abroad, but remain in the retirement of their hollow tree trunk. On such a day, therefore, the settler, armed with his rifle, takes his stand at day-dawn, directly opposite to what we may call the peccary's front door ; concealing himself cautiously among the neighboring bushes. Pre- sently there is light enough to see the nose and sharp eyes of the sentinel peccary. Covering him with his rifle, the trigger is pulled ; and with the ball in his brain, over head and heels tumbles poor piggy-wiggy, and there is an end of him. Wakened by the explosion, another pops himself into the opening to see what is the matter ; but a second bullet finishes him in like manner. A third, fourth, even more, it is said, may be shot in this way, if the man is only careful enough not to stir the bushes FOREST LIFE PLAY. 33 among which he is hidden. If he do, there is an end of the game ; out jumps the heast in the door-way, with all the rest at his heels, and together they make a grand charge at the sportsman, who finds a tree, or % a light pair of heels, his best defence against these fierce and fearless animals. A bear hunt in Texas, which is one of the places where peccaries are found, was one day brought to a very amus- ing termination by these small pests. The bear, trying to climb a tree, as the hunters came up to him, was sur- rounded .by the dogs, who held him on every side in such a manner as to render it difficult to get a shot at him, for fear of wounding them. Bruin was accordingly pitching them right and left, when all at once a drove of peccaries dashed, grunting, upon the whole group. The dogs, cut and slashed by their villanous sharp teeth, slank off howling to their masters. The poor t^ar found himself in worse hands even than before ; and, roaring with pain, rolled about, striking out at random in all directions with his huge paws, at these new assailants : while from the hunters themselves, half angry, half laughing, rose a general cry of " Peccaries ! run, run !" And sticking spurs into their horses, they bounded off through the cane brake, only too glad to leave the peccaries and the bear to fight it out between themselves. 3 34 HUHTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. FOREST LIFE-PERIL. THE huge forests of America and Canada are slowly yielding to the axe of the backwoodsman. From morn- ing to night, his broad keen blade glitters in its relent- less descent, and the bright flashing chips fly, till down thunders one monarch of the woods after another, whose only revenge on his destroyer, is the leaving of a tor- menting stump. Those stumps, dotted here and there among his cleared land, are dreadfully in the 4vay of the plowman, till time or gunpowder, completes their de- struction, and enables him to achieve that pride of his heart, a straight furrow. But if the axe were the only means of turning the woodlands into cornfields and pastures, or into what may some day become so, the process would go on much more slowly than it does. Fire plays no unimportant part in the destruction of the woods ; and its fierceness, and the extent of its ravages, are such as none can conceive, save those who have witnessed them. Lightning strikes a dry tree, and kindles up a blaze ; or, perhaps, the heaped-up cuttings and brushwood, left by the " lum- berer" or backwoodsman, are set on fire, either acci- dentally, (possibly by a spark from the odious tobacco- pipe, which we can scarcely forgive, even in that com- fortless place,) or purposely, to get rid of the rubbish ; and the conflagration runs on for miles, consuming, not trees only, and the frightened wild inhabitants of the forest, but, in its unchecked fury, licking up the tender FOREST LIFE PERIL. 35 crops, and the homestead itself, of the struggling emi- grant, who is too happy if he and his little ones can only escape with their lives. Fire is the best remedy for fires of this kind. That sounds odd enough. In the city, if we catch fire, we run post haste -for the " engine," and should think any one mad who prescribed fire instead of water. But the meaning of it is, tliat the most effectual way of checking the flames in these forest and bush fires is, to set fire to the grass and brushwood, sufficiently in advance of the great fire that is to be extinguished, to allow them to be burnt out, before the wave of flame comes up to the place. If this can be managed, it re- quires much care and adroitness, the original fire, of course, goes out for want of fuel, and there is an end of it. But too frequently the intensity of the conflagra- tion baffles all attempts to stop it. In the hot season, dead trees, broken branches, and decaying underwood, are dry as tinder ; the resin and pitch, in such trees as the fir, give unconquerable fury to the flames, while the violent wind, which is the natural result of a vast body of intense heat, fans the whole into still stronger com- bustion. A fire of this kind that took place in one of the English possessions in North America, in 1825, burnt on for the astounding distance of a hundred and forty miles, and on both sides of a large river. On one bank alone, a breadth of more than sixty miles was ra- vnircd by it. It appears that for several days previously the woods had been on fire ; but this being no infrequent thing, did not produce any alarm. Suddenly, however, a storm of wind arose, accompanied by so extraordinary a 36 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. sound, like distant thunder, proceeding from the depths of the forests, as made the inhabitants of the district fear that there was something worse than the mere ordinary burning of the woods. The sky also became obscured with the rolling smoke, and speedily the surrounding woods flashed out into flames, whose long forky tongues licked and twined in all directions, around the tall bolea of the forest trees, and even leaped high into air, thirty or forty yards above their tops. Two towns were almost immediately involved in the fire, many of whose inhabi- tants were suffocated or burnt to death, and others dreadfully injured. 'Those who escaped death, had no time to save any of their property ; but, hurrying to the banks of the river, sought in canoes, on rafts, logs of timber, or indeed anything that could float, to make their escape from the horrid death that threatened them on shore. Nor, stripped of everything, were they safe even there ; since the violence of the tempest whirled aloft burning logs, fragments of houses, and even trees, and dashed them, flaming, into the water. Of how many of the backwoodsmen perished in the forest, where they had made their homes, no account could be taken ; but it is supposed that, altogether, at least five hundred human beings lost their lives in this dreadful fire. One poor lumberer, (a backwoodsman is so named from his occupation of felling timber or lumber, as it is called,) had just built his " shanty " or log-hut, and was beginning to cut timber when the fire, broke out. He was told of it by some of his men who had passed through the wood to bring provisions to the little camp, but thought nothing of it, till one of them, leaving the FOREST LIFE PERIL. 37 snanty for a minute, came back hastily with news that the fire was a bad one, and within a mile of the hut. They instantly looked out, and as far as they could see, there was nothing but fire, waving high above the forest, and whose roar, like that of a gigantic furnace, was broken in upon, from time to time, by the crash of fall- ing trees. Not a moment was to be lost. Without staying to save an article, they ran to a small stream a little way off. Some of them thought this would be a sufficient check to the flames, and so contented themselves with crossing it, and going a short distance down its opposite bank, to a spot which they had formerly cleared. The lumberer, however, felt sure, that such a fire as that now raging behind them, would soon leap the comparatively narrow thread of water, and, as safety was on neither bank, he adopted the bold plan of taking refuge in the stream itself. Wading into it, therefore, shoulder high, he took up kis post underneath a hanging bank, and awaited his fate. The flames advanced, consuming all before them, and filling the sky with a lurid glare. Their hot breath was almost stifling to the poor trembling wretch in the river. Another minute, and the trees overhead were a-light, and he, forced for safety, to plung3 his head under the water, holding it there as long as he could for suffoca- tion, and then taking breath for a moment. When he was able once more to stand erect, the flame was still raging onward before him. Behind, where it had passed, black- ened boles were still blazing ; mere stumps, with all their branches burnt off, and soon to die out for want of fresh 38 HUNTING SPOR'TS OP THE WEST. fuel. The poor man dared not, for some hours, leave his watery fortress, but at last made good his escape from the ruined neighborhood. His log-hut and every- thing in it was of course destroyed ; but happily for him, some of the provisions lying in a cellar, escaped injury ; otherwise, after escaping fire, he might hav<* died of starvation, before he could get away. His companions were lost in the burning forest. The lumberer himself told the story of his wonderful escape to Major Strickland, who relates it in the man's own words in his account of his own life as a settler in Canada. Mr. Charles Murray, in his travels in North America, describes this setting fire to the woods as being done on purpose by Indians, in order to drive himself and his companions from their hunting grounds. In whatever direction they turned for sport, a light was certain to be applied to the dry grass, and then all was in a blaze. On more than one . occasion, not only was his sport spoiled, but his life endangered by this practice. One day he had to take to the water, to escape from the flames, which they had kindled in the wood for his particular accommodation. Another time, seeing him cross the prairie to a wood where it was supposed deer might be found, they fired the grass in several places, and in such a direction that the wind, which was rather high, might carry the flames his way. Mr. Murray soon perceived that he could not outrun the fire, and therefore adopted the plan of which we have spoken, curing fire by means of fire. He set the grass near him alight, and then, when it was burnt out, took up his post in the centre of the THE PRAIRIE. 39 bare space thus created. He had the satisfaction of see- ing that the Indians' fire could not pass its circumference for want of fuel, but skirting it, seized grass, and brush- wood, and timber, and so carried the conflagration on- wards, leaving him safe, though half suffocated. The next day he went out in a different direction, where there had not been any fire. But his Indian friends were ready fcrt him. As evening drew on, slight columns of smoke were seen spiring out of the Wood ; and presently the flames burst forth, the old dry timber crash- ing down, and sending up a shower of sparks. The flames crept here, along the brushwood, and leaped up there, as they folded themselves round some resinous tree ; while huge clouds of smoke, black and lurid, as they shifted about, canopied the magnificent scene. The Indians had the best of it, for they fairly burnt out Mr. Murray and his sporting friends. THE PRAIRIE. THE ponderous buffalo is the " game " of the north American plains or prairies ; in some of which it still abounds, notwithstanding the incredible destruction which necessity, or mere wantonness, has wrought among these beasts. Some idea of the killing that goes on among lierds of buffalo may be formed from a knowledge of the circumstance of a hundred thousand prepared skins buf- falo robes they are called being every year brought into 40 HUNTING SPOKTS OF THE WEST. Canada and the United States, where they are much used as a defence from the extreme winter cold of those coun- tries. This is, in addition to any number that may be kilfed to provide the same covering for the Indians them- selves, who are as fond of it as their white neighbors are. The buffalo is to them great gain; they eat him, wear him, and trade him away for the various articles of use and luxury which their uncivilized wandering life fails to provide for them, but the taste for which it by no means extinguishes. A traveller camping out in the prairies, heard one night a noise like distant thunder, but so prolonged that he was certain it could not be that. Puzzled to account for it, as it came nearer and nearer, he listened with his ear close to the ground, and at length became aware that it was the heavy tread of a herd of buffaloes on one of their usual migrations on the plains ; and a momentary gleam of moonlight showed him the prairie, black over with thousands upon thousands of these huge beasts. How to escape their headlong rush became a subject of no little anxiety, as camp and all, placed in their imme- diate track, was in danger of being borne away by the torrent. Hastening to his comrades, he roused them up ; and by dint of repeated volleys from their muskets, aided by the united screeches and yells of the whole party, they succeeded in frightening the monsters into a different path to that which led directly over their encampment, and thus escaped the chance of being crushed to death. The herd, under this double salute, divided into two; one-half thundering off to the plains, while the other tramped through the adjacent river, where their splash- THE PRAIRIE. 41 ing and dashing, as they crossed the water, was heard for hours. Such are the numbers in which these great creatures roam about their native prairies. It is said that the buffalo is not naturally a fierce ani- mal ; but its looks are against it. Its huge head, and rough beard and mane, are not unlike those of a lion, only much larger in proportion to the size of its body. When urged to its speed these are tossed about in what appears to be a most threatening manner ; but the poor beast does not mean mischief, unless his pursuers drive him to it; and then, woe betide all that come in his way ! The Indians sometimes manage to slaughter even the largest herds of buffaloes, in what may be called a whole- sale way. In order to make it intelligible, some descrip- tion of the nature of these prairies is needful. They are, as has been said, vast undulating plains, studded hero and there with clumps of park-like timber; but these plains are occasionally broken up by great clefts or canons, which go suddenly, and almost sheer down for many hundred feet. Mr. Kendall, in his account of the Santa Fd expedition, relates that he and his party were traversing one of these plains, in which no break of the surface could be perceived far as the eye could reach, when all at once they found themselves on the brink of one of these tremendous chasms. Its almost perpendi- cular depth beneath their feet was near three hundred yards, and it was from three to five hundred yards wide. A slender stream, now hidden by some huge rock, now bubbling again into view, coursed along the bottom, wearing its channel into fantastic shapes. The depth, 42 HUNTING SPOKTS OF THE WEST. and dark abrupt character of this rent in the earth, made them almost sick as they looked down into it; the more so, perhaps, that there was no way of continuing their journey but by crossing it. Had they been made of india-rubber, they might have rolled themselves up into balls and bowled down to the bottom, with the utmost ease ; but even that would have left them with the dif- ficulty of getting up the other side, as apparently insu- perable as ever. However, cross it they must ; and as, the day previous, they had seen numerous foot-marks of Indians, horses, and buffaloes leading in this direction, it was evident that they had managed to pass it, and if they could, so might others. It was dangerous, but that could not be helped ; so the steadiest and best behaved horses and mules were first induced to begin the perilous descent, those who were less, to be trusted bringing up the rear. There was one advantage attending their steep downward course, and that was, that, once in for it, and there was no turning back. Onward they were obliged to go ; and amid clattering stones, loosened by their tread, and that leaped and bounded down before them, they at last reached in safety the very bottom of this dreary ravine. Here they rested for a while, as was evident their pre- decessors the Indians had done ; various traces of whose camp were scattered about. The track upwards and out of the cleft was presently discovered ; and winding along the ravine till it was reached, afforded ample opportunity for noticing the remarkable and fantastic effects of the rushing waters that coursed throughout it. Pillars, forts, battlements, turrets, by turns presented themselves, till THE PRAIRIE. 45 the traveler might have imagined himself wandering among the ruins of some deserted city. Getting down was bad ; getting up again was worse. Guns, baggage, and horse furniture had to be carried in the hand, while the animals scrambled up as they could. One of them struck against a piece of rock that stuck out upon the path, and was hurled down by the shock a distance of near twenty feet, fulling right upon his back. Of course he was given up for lost ; but, thank you, Dobbin had ao idea of that. He just got up again, himself a shake, and then trying it a second time, marched up as steadily as any of them. The passage of this ravine took them five or six hours ; by the middle of the afternoon i accomplished it, and were restored to the upper world. Continuing their route on the plain, they found that bj MB they had left the c-h; few hundred yards behind them, not the slightest trace of its 'existence was to be .- It is into chasms such M that the mounted In- dians, spurring their half-wild horses to their u: speed, drive the immense herds of buffaloes, when they come upon them in a situation suitable for this purpose. Urged onward by the yells and rapid hoof-trampling be- hind them, headlong, and tumbling over each other go the huge terror-stricken brutes, p, dark avalanche of -life, bounding from crag to crag in the rugged de- scent, till, at the very bottom of the canon, lies a writh- ing, swelling heap of carcases, a rich spoil for their sa- vage pursuers to gloat over. The bow and arrow is a formidable weapon for the destruction of buffalo, in the hands of an Indian. Some 46 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. of the Pawnees will launch their arrows with such force as to drive them almost up to the feathered end in the animal's body. Nay, it is said that they are sometimes shot clean through him, and left quivering in the ground beyond. The ordinary way of shooting the buffalo by civilized sportsmen, is either by hunting him or by stalking. The former is accomplished on horseback, bringing him down at a long shot. The latter is done on foot, creeping along from bush to bush, hiding here, and dodging there, keep- ing in such a direction that the wind may not blow the scent of the hunter to his game, in stealing upon him un- awares. But there is no object of the chase that takes so much killing as the poor buffalo. His enormous frame offers so wide a range of others than fatal marks for a bullet, that the chances are, save in skillful hands, that the wretched animal may be riddled before he falls. A well-placed shot behind the shoulder, will soon bring down even his vast bulk ; and it should not be forgotten that though we may, and must kill these creatures, it is our duty to do so with as little suffering to. them as pos- sible. A bungling sportsman deserves to rank with a butcher ; and not even with him, if he is expert at his business. Hunting buffalo is not the only business of the Indians of the prairie. The wild horse that scours those bound- less plains forms a still more exciting chase. No pop- ping at him with rifles, or twanging bow-strings at him ; he must be taken alive and uninjured. And my lord is not always so easily caught as his pursuers would wish. Jf a troop of horses is seen, the mode employed is that RE AT PINE SWAMP. 47 of forming a wide circle round them by mounted Indians, who gradually draw nearer and nearer to each other, driving the horses before them, till their prey is within reach of the lasso. The lasso is a long cord with a noose at one end, which the Indians throw with wonderful pre- cision. This is skillfully thrown round the necks of those who are thought best worth taking; and the Indians, riding off with their struggling, prancing captives, soon succeed in making them understand the value of obedi- ence. They may kick, and plunge, and rear, and caper, as they think proper ; but it is all of no use. Between a powerful bit, tremendous spurs, and a rider who sticks to his steed like wax, the noble animal is effectually sub- dued, and henceforth must follow the bidding of another, instead of his own. If there be but a solitary horse, or the hunters are few, of course there is just a race for it, generally ending in favor of the hunter; who, it must be said, occasionally receives a handsome kick or two from his captive. GREAT PINE SWAMP.* I LEFT Philadelphia, at four in the morning, by the coach, with no other accoutrements than I knew to be * Of all hunters, Audubon is the most interesting. He hunted with a noble purpose; he saw with the eye, and described with the pen of an ar- tist. This account of the Swamp is extracted from his Ornithological Bi- ography. 48 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. absolutely necessary for the jaunt which I intended to make. These consisted of a wooden box, containing a small stock of linen, drawing paper, my journal, colors, and pencils, together with twenty-five pounds of shot, some flints, the due quantum of cash, my gun, Tear- jacket, and a heart as true to nature as ever. Our coaches are none of the best, nor do they move with the velocity of those of some other countries. It was eight, and a dark night, when I reached Mauch Chunk, now so celebrated in the Union, for its rich coal mines, and eighty-eight miles distant. from Philadelphia. I had passed through a very diversified country, part of which was highly cultivated, while the rest was yet in a state of nature, and consequently much more agreeable to me. On alighting, I was shown to the travelers' room, and, on asking for the landlord, saw, coming to- wards me, a fine-looking young man, to whom I made known my wishes. He spoke kindly, and offered to lodge and board me at a much lower rate than travelers who go there for the very simple pleasure of being dragged on the railway. In a word, I was fixed in four minutes, and that most comfortably. No sooner had the approach of day been announced by the cocks of the little village, than I marched out with my gun and note-book, to judge for myself of the wealth of the country. After traversing much ground, and crossing many steep hills, I returned, if not wearied, at least much disappointed at the extraordinary scarcity of birds. So I bargained to be carried in a cart, to the central parts of Great Pine Swamp, and, although a heavy storm was rising, ordered my conductor to proceed. GREAT PINE SWAMP. 49 We winded round many a mountain, and at last crossed the highest. The weather had become tremendous, and we were thoroughly drenched, but my resolution being fixed, the boy was obliged to continue his driving. Having already traveled about fifteen miles or so, wo left the turnpike, and struck up a narrow and bad road, that seemed merely cut out to enable the people of the Swamp to receive the necessary supplies from the vil- lage which I had left. Some mistakes were made, and and it was almost dark, when a post directed us to the habitation of a Mr. Jediah Irish, to whom I had been recommended. We now rattled down a steep declivity, edged on one side by almost perpendicular rocks, and on the other, by a noisy stream, which seemed grum- bling at the approach of strangers. The ground was so overgrown by laurels, and tall pines of different kinds, that the whole presented only a mass of darkness. At length we got to the house, the door of which was already opened, the sight of strangers being nothing un- common in our woods, even in the most remote parts. On entering, I was presented with a chair, while my conductor was shown the way to the stable, and on ex- pressing a wish that I should be permitted to remain in the house for some weeks, I was gratified by receiving the sanction of the good woman to ii,y proposal, although her husband was then from home. As I immediately fell a-talking about the nature of the country, and in- quired if the birds were numerous in the neighborhood, Mrs. Irish, more au fait to household affairs than orni- thology, sent for a nephew of her husband's, who soon made his appearance, and in whose favor I became at 50 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. once prepossessed. He conversed like an educated per- son, saw that I was comfortably disposed of, and finally bade me good-night, in such a tone as made me quite happy. The storm had rolled away before the first beams of the morning sun shone brightly on the wet foliage, dis- playing all its richness and beauty. My ears were greeted by the notes, always sweet and mellow, of the Wood Thrush and other songsters. Before I had gone many steps, the woods echoed to the report of my gun, and I picked from among the leaves a lovely Sylvia, long sought for, but until then, sought for in vain. I needed no more, and standing still for awhile, I was soon convinced that the Great Pine Swamp harbored \many other objects as valuable to me. The young man joined me, bearing his rifle, and offered to accompany me through the woods, all of which he well knew. But I was anxious to transfer to paper the form and beauty of the little bird I had in my hand; and requesting him to break a twig of blooming laurel, we returned to the house, speaking of nothing else than the picturesque beauty of the country around. A few days passed, during which I became acquainted with my hostess and her sweet children, and made occa- sional rambles, but spent the greater portion of my time in drawing. One morning, as I stood near the window of my room, I remarked a tall and powerful man alight from his horse, loose the girth of the saddje, raise the latter with one hand, pass the bridle over the head of the ani- mal with the other, and move towards the house, while the horse betook himself to the little brook to drink. I \ GREAT PINE SWAMP. 51 heard some movements in the room below, and again the same tall person walked towards the mills and stores, a few hundred yards o.ff from the house. In America, busi- ness is the first object in view at all times, and right it is that it should be so. Soon after, my hostess entered my room, accompanied by a fine-looking woodsman, to whom, as Mr. Jediah Irish, I was introduced. Reader, to describe to you the qualities of that excellent man were vain ; you should know him as I do, to estimate the value of such men in our sequestered forests. He not only made me welcome, but promised all his assistance in forwarding my views. The long walks and long talks we have had together, I never can forget, or the many beautiful birds which we pursued, shot, and admired. The juicy venison, ex- cellent bear flesh, and delightful trout, that daily formed my food, methinks I can still enjoy. And then, what pleasure I had in listening to him as he read his favorite poems of Burns, while my pencil was occupied in smooth- ing and softening the drawing of the bird before me ! Was not this enough to recall to my mind the early im- pressions that had been made upon it, by the description of the golden age, which I here found realized ? The Lehigh about this place, forms numerous short turns between the mountains, and affords frequent falls, as well as below the falls deep pools, which render this stream a most valuable one for mills of any kind.. Not many years before this date, my host was chosen by the agent of the Lehigh Coal Company, as their mill-wright, and manager for cutting down the fine trees which co- vered the mountains around. He was young, robust, 52 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. active, industrious, and persevering. He marched to the spot where his abode now is, with some workmen, and by dint of hard labor, first cleared the road men- tioned above, and reached the river at the centre of a bend, where he fixed on erecting various mills. The pass here is so narrow, that it looks as if formed by the bursting asunder of the mountain, both sides ascending abruptly, so that the place where the settlement was made, is in many parts difficult of access, and the road, when newly cut, was only sufficient to permit men and horses to come to the spot where JecHah and his men were at work. So great, in fact, were the difficulties of access, that, as he told me, pointing to a spot about 150 feet above us, they, for many months slipped from it their barrelled provisions, assisted by ropes, to their camp below. But no sqoner was the first saw-mill erected, than the axe- men began their devastations. Trees, one after another were, and are yet constantly heard falling during the days j and in calm nights, the greedy mills told the sad tale, that in a century the noble forests around should exist no more. Many mills were erected, many dams raised, in defiance of the impetuous Lehigh. One full third of the trees have already been culled, turned into boards, and floated as far as Philadelphia. In such an undertaking, the cutting of the trees is not all. They have afterwards to be hauled to the edge of the mountains bordering the river, launched into the stream, and led to the mills over many shallows and dif- ficult places. Whilst I was in the Great Pine Swamp, I frequently visited one of the principal places for the launching of logs. To see them tumbling from such a GREAT PINE SWAMP. 53 height, touching here and there the rough angle of a pro- jecting rock, bouncing from it with the elasticity of a foot-ball, and at last falling with awful crash into the river, forms a sight interesting in the highest degree, but impossible 'for me to describe. Shall I tell you that I have seen masses of these logs heaped above each other to the number of five thousand, ? I may so tell you, for such I have seen. My friend Irish assured me that at some seasons, these piles consisted of a much greater number, the river becoming in those places completely choked up. When freshets (or floods) take place, then is the time chosen for forwarding the logs to the different mills. This is called a frolic. Jediah Irish, who is generally the leader, proceeds to the upper leap with his men, each provided with a strong wooden handspike, and a short- handled axe. They all take to the water, be it summer or winter, like so many Newfoundland spaniels. The logs are gradually detached, and, after a time, are seen floating down the dancing stream, here striking against a rock and whirling many times round, there suddenly checked in dozens by a shallow, over which they have to be forced with the handspikes. Now they arrive at the edge of a dam, and are again pushed over. Certain numbers are left in each dam, and when the party has arrived at the last, which lies just where my friend Irish's camp was first formed, the drenched leader and his men, about sixty in number, make their way home, find there a healthful repast, and spend the evening and a portion of the night in dancing and frolicking, in their own sim- ple manner, in the most perfect amity, seldom troubling 54 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. themselves with the idea of the labor prepared for them on the morrow. /That morrow now come, one sounds a horn from the ; door of the store-house, at the call of which each returns to his work. The sawyers, the millers, the rafters, and raftsmen are all immediately busy. The mills are all going, and the logs, which a few months before were the supporters of broad and leafy tops, are now in the act of being split asunder. The boards are then launched into the stream, and rafts are formed of them for market. During the summer and autumnal months, the Lehigh, a small river of itself, soon becomes extremely shallow, and to float the rafts would prove impossible, had not art managed to provide a supply of water for this ex- press purpose. At the breast of the lower dam is a curiously constructed lock, which is opened at the ap- proach of the rafts. They pass through this lock with the rapidity of lightning, propelled by the water that had been accumulated in the dam, and which is of itself generally sufficient to float them to Mauch Chunk, after which, entering regular canals, they find no other impedi- ments, but are conveyed to their ultimate destination. Before population had greatly advanced in this part of Pennsylvania, game of all descriptions found within that range was extremely abundant. The Elk itself did not disdain to browse on the shoulders of the mountains, near the Lehigh. Bears and the Common Deer must have been plentiful, as, at the moment when I write, many of both kinds are seen and killed by the resident hunters. The Wild Turkey, the Pheasant, and the Grouse, are also tolerably abundant ; and as to Trout in GREAT PINE SWAMP. 57 the streams Ah, reader, if you are an angler, go there, and try for yourself. For my part, I can only say, that I have been made weary with pulling up from the rivulets the sparkling fish, allured by the struggles of the com- mon grasshopper. A comical affair happened with the bears, which I will relate. A party of my friend Irish's raftsmen, returning from Mauch Chunk, one afternoon, through sundry short cuts over the mountains, at the season when the huckle- berries are ripe and plentiful, were suddenly apprised of the proximity of some of these animals, by their snuffing the air. No sooner was this perceived than, to the as- tonishment of the party, not fewer than eight bears, I was told, made their appearance. Each man, being pro- vided with his short-handled axe, faced about and wil- lingly came to the scratch ; but the assailed soon proved the assailants, and with claw and tooth drove off the men in a twinkling. Down they all rushed from the moun- tain ; the noise spread quickly ; rifles were soon procured and shouldered ; but when the spot was reached, no bears were to be found ; night forced the hunters back to their homes, and a laugh concluded the affair. I spent six weeks in the Great Pine Forest Swamp it cannot be called where I made many a Hrawing. Wishing to leave Pennsylvania, and to follow the migra tory flocks of our birds to the south, I bade adieu to the excellent wife and rosy children of my friend, and to his kind nephew. Jediah Irish, shouldering his heavy rifle, accompanied me, and trudging directly across the moun- tains, we arrived ut Mauch Chunk, in good time for 58 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. dinner. Shall I ever have the pleasure of seeing that good, that generous man again ? At Mauch Chunk, where we both spent the night, Mr. White, the civil engineer, visited me, and looked at the drawings which I had made in the Great Pine Eorest. The news he gave me of my sons, then in Kentucky, made me still more anxious to move in their direction, and, long before day-break, I shook hands with the good man of the forest, and found myself moving towards the capital of Pennsylvania, having, as my sole compa- nion, a sharp frosty breeze. Left to my thoughts, I felt amazed that such a place as the Great Pine Forest should be so little known to the Philadelphians, scarcely any of whom could direct me towards it. How much is it to be regretted, thought I, that the many young gen- tlemen who are there, so much at a loss how to employ their leisure days, should not visit these wild retreats, valuable as they are to the student of nature ! How differently would they feel, if, instead of spending weeks in smoothing a useless bow, and walking out in full dress, intent on displaying the make of their legs, to some rendezvous where they may enjoy their wines, they were to occupy themselves in contemplating the rich profusion which nature has poured around them, or even in procuring some desired specimen for their Peales Museum, once so valuable and so finely arrranged ! But alas ! no : they are -none of them aware of the richness of the Great Pine Swamp, nor are they likely to share the hospitality to be found there. Night came on, as I was thinking of such things, and I was turned out of the coach into the streets of the fair city, HUNTING ON THE ARKANSAW. 59 just as the clock struck ten. I cannot say that my bones were much rested, but not a moment was to be lost. So I desired a porter to take up my little luggage, and lead- ing him towards the nearest wharf, I found myself, soon after, gliding across the Delaware, towards my former lodgings in the Jerseys. The lights were shining from the parallel streets as I crossed them, all was tranquil and serene, until there came the increasing sound of the Baltimore steamer, which, for some reason unknown to me, was that evening later than usual in its arrival. My luggage was landed and carried home by means of a bribe. The people had all retired to rest, but my voice was instantly recognized, and an entrance was afforded to me. HUNTING ON THE ARKANSAW. ONE of the most entertaining narrators of hunting adventures, is Frederick Gerstaecker, a German tra- veler, who cam* to this country several years since, ap- parently for the sole purpose of hunting in the far west. He worked at various employments to raise money, and when he had obtained a supply, would shoulder his rifle, go into the woods and hunt. His book, " Wild Sports in the Far West," is exceedingly entertaining. We make some extracts from it ; commencing at a point 60 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. where, having been employed on a steamboat, he had quarreled with the captain and got set on shore, on the banks of the Arkansaw river. His narrative proceeds thus : All around me was a solitary wilderness ; the river behind me, the ground frozen hard, and covered with a thin sheet of snow, a cold north wind blowing through the leafless branches. I felt in my pocket for my fire apparatus, it was all wet ; not a single grain of powder in my powder-horn, and only one barrel loaded. I thought it would never do to discharge my gun for the sake of lighting a fire, and remain unarmed in the wilderness. I cleared away the snow from under a tree, lay down, and tried to sleep ; but the wind was too sharp, the cold insupportable, and I was afraid of being frozen. Driven to extremity, I discharged my gun against the root of a tree lighted a match by the burning wadding, collected dry grass and wood, and in a minute or two had a glorious fire. Although I heard the howls of several wolves, I did not mind them, but enjoyed a sound sleep. Certainly, on the following morning, I trudged on, rather out of spirits, with no powder, and a very hungry stomach. I followed the direction of the river downwards, in hopes of finding a house. After I had gone some dis- tance, I saw an old half-sunken canoe. I baled out the water with my cap, and found that she was still service- able. My former intentions of visiting Texas, returned in full force ; I decided on crossing to the other side, to look for a house, and procure food and powder, and re- HUNTING ON THE ARKANSAW. 61 solved then to strike off in a south-west direction in search of the route to Texas. I had hardly gained the opposite bank when I disco- vered a large flock of wild turkeys. I took aim, and pulled the trigger, forgetting that I had not loaded ; they took to the trees on my approach, and I suffered the tortures of Tantalus at the sight ; but there was no help for it, and I was obliged to pass on. As it always happens in such cases, I saw quantities of game this day. Cold and cloudy descended the night, bringing with it the dreaded north wind ; I was obliged to lie down with- out a fire. In order to avoid the bears and panthers, I- had climbed up a tree, but the wind was too sharp to make such an airy perch endurable. At length I found a hollow tree, crept in, covered my feet with my game- bag, placed my gun on my left side, and, with my knife in my right hand, I passed one of the most uncomforta- ble Rights of my life. I heard the howling of the wolves, and once the roar of a panther in the distance ; but nothing came to disturb me, and the bright morning sun saw me early on the inarch, for my couch was not inviting enough to detain me. At length, what music to my ears ! the crow of a cock and the bark of a dog announced the neighborhood of a farm. I soon per- ceived the thin, blue smoke of a chimney ascending into the beautiful clear sky, and, with a quickened pace, made towards it, hoping soon to refresh both body and soul. The good people gave me such a hospitable recep- tion, and placed so much on the table, that, notwith- 62 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. standing my fearful appetite, there was a great deal more than I could eat. Fortunately, the farmer had a stock of gunpowder, and filled my powder-horn for a quarter of a dollar. As I was about to depart, he asked if I would not like to join a shooting party ; several of his neighbors were coming this morning to search a thicket not far from his house, where they expected to find a bear which had robbed him of many of his pigs. I did not long hesitate, cleaned my gun, loaded the left hand barrel with ball, and the right with buck-shot, and so was ready for anything. We had not long to wait, and all mounted on horseback. We soon arrived at the spot, and rode round and round it ; it was the thickly overgrown bed of a former spring. Suddenly the dogs gave tongue, and immediately afterwards the bear started out of his hiding-place. Eager as we were, we could only follow him slowly, on account of the thick underwood ; so we hobbled the horses' fore-legs*, and pressed forward on foot. One of the party soon proclaimed that, judging by the bark of the dogs, the bear must have climbed up a tree. Such proved to be the case, and we had hardly discovered him, when I and one of the farmers fired ; both balls had taken effect, but a dull cry was the only consequence ; two others of the party coming up, fired. He was mortally wounded, drew himself together, and hung by one paw from the tree ; as I hit him on the paw with my buck-shot, he fell, and died under the bites of the dogs, who threw themselves furiously on him. His Hesh was savory and tender, but he yas not so fat as HUNTING ON THE ARKANSAW. 63 was expected. I remained the night with these kind people, and set off again on the following morning. "Without anything further worth noticing, Lcame, on the 15th of March, to the bank of the Great Red river, the boundary between the United States and Texas. A farmer who had a canoe, set me over the river, and fol- lowing a well-trodden path on the other side, I came to a large slave plantation. The overseer, who directed the labors of the negroes, said, at first, that he had no room for me to sleep in ; but as there was no other house far and wide where I could find shelter, he* at last agreed, and I found a sumptuous supper and comforta- ble bed. The land near the river was very swampy, and over- grown with thick canes, but the wood became more open and the ground dryer as I left the river. On the even- ing of the third day, I again slept at a plantation, and this was the last night I passed in a house for some time to come. The overseer lived in a block-house, and all around stood the smaller huts of the slaves, one for each family. During the hours of labor, he carried a heavy whip to keep the blacks in order ; yet he did not seem to feel quite safe amongst these poor, ill-treated people, for lie had a pair of pistols in his saddle holsters. From these quarters I marched along fresh anJ. in good spirits into the forest, which already began to look green. The birds sang so sweetly on the branches, that' my heart was joyful and mournful at the same time ; I longed in vain for a companion, with whom I could ex- change thoughts. A shot echoed from the plantation, and innumerable wild geese rose from the cotton-fields 64 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. behind me; with a deafening noise they formed then usual triangle, and flew all in the same direction. Luckily for me, I had in my bag a couple of wild ducks that I had killed and roasted the day before. The forest was mortally dull, and the march began to grow rather tedious, for my rambles in the north were still fresh in my memory. I passed the night very pleasantly by a fire, while my hunger took the second duck into con- sideration. Towards noon I came to the little river Sulphur-fork, which I was obliged to wade through, after many vain attempts to find a shallow place, the water corning up to my chest. I began to despair of getting any thing to eat, and, being thoroughly wet, I resolved to come soon to a halt, and dry myself by a fire, when all at once I saw about fifty deer, within shot, all quietly feeding, and taking no notice of me. For an instant I stood petrified ; then every fibre in my body beat and trembled with de- light. The suddenness of the sight had so excited me that I could not take aim, and I was obliged to wait to collect myself. It was a glorious sight, such a number of those noble animals together ; I counted fifty-seven, and derived particular pleasure from the antics of two fawns, which made the most comical bounds, and came very near me without any suspicion. Regret to kill such a beautiful innocent creature withheld my hand for some time, but hunger was not to be cajoled, I fired, and one of them fell without a cry. The effect of the report upon the herd was quite ludicrous, each of the hitherto un- suspicious animals became an image of attention, then fled with immense bounds towards the thicket. As I did OERSTAECKER SHOOTING A PANTHER. HUNTING ON THE ARKANSAW. 67 not move they stopped again, and began to feed, but not without frequently raising their heads to listen. The impression which the fall of his playfellow had produced on the other fawn was very different. Far from flying, he came nearer, smelt the poor animal as if he thought it was play, setting his fore-foot several times on the body of his comrade as if to induce him to get up. I had the other barrel still loaded, but thought it would be like murder to injure a hair of the little creature. As I stepped out from the bushes, the fawn stared at me with astonishment in his large clear eyes ; probably he had never seen a man before. He then flew like the wind towards his dam, but stopping now and then as if he expected his comrade. I quickly made a fire on the spot to roast my game, putting the greater part of the back and the brisket on sticks before the fire with hollow bark underneath to catch the dripping for basting; and a delicious meal was very soon the result of this simple proceeding. Next day, as I was going quietly along through forest and prairie, looking out right and left for game or amuse- ment, I caught sight of. something in a large oak. Fix- ing my eyes steadily on it, and coming closer, I recog- nized the glowing eyes of a panther crouched on a bxmgh, and seemingly ready to spring. I gave him both barrels, one after the other, when he fell from the tree, and died with a fearful howl. He was a large handsome beast, of an ashy gray color, and measuring from seven to eight feet from the nose to the end of the tail. It was well that I had venison in my game-bag, for the panther would have been a tough morsel. I dragged 68 HUNTING SPORTS OP THE WEST. the rather heavy skin with me till the evening, and slept soundly on it for my trouble. A damp fog came on to- wards morning, which soon turned to fine penetrating rain, seeming to foretell a disagreeable day ; but as I had enjoyed beautiful weather in general, I could not complain. The sky became quite dark, the rain fell heavier, and I was soon wet "through. I left the panther skin where I had slept, so that I had no heavy burden to carry. I found my stomach beginning to loathe the quantity of animal food that was put into it, and to long for bread, but I was obliged to divert my thoughts from the subject, and the last remains of the venison were dis- creetly devoured. Meantime I had killed a turkey, so that at all events I had something in store. My plan hitherto had been to push on to the nearest eastern settlement ; but the road was too long and tedi- ous, so I turned southwards, in order afterwards to pro- ceed eastward towards Louisiana and the Red river. The constant rain made it impossible to light a fire this evening, and I passed a miserable night, for though I tried to make a shelter of pieces of bark, I could not manage it ; however, the night came at last to an end, and cold, cross, and hungry as a lion, I went along with only a plucked turkey in my bag. About noon my day's journey was brought to an un- expected end by a river that had overflowed its banks. The rain had ceased, so that, with better fortune than yesterday, I succeeded in making a fire, and my turkey, divided into four quarters, was soon in front of it. Now, comfortably stretched before my fire, I considered whether I should cross the river ; I had no sort of busi- BEAR SHOOTJNG. 69 ness on the other side, and it seemed absurd to swim across for nothing so I settled on quitting Texas, and returning to the United States. If I had a friend with me I could have gone on to the shores of the Pacific, but I had no mind to do it alone. When I had finished my repast, I got up and made my way in an E. S. E. direction. As the rain had left off, I made up to-night for the wakefulness of the last ; when I awoke, the fire had burnt out, and the sun was shining through the bursting buds of the trees. I had a good wash in a neighboring spring, and felt like a giant refreshed. After taking my frugal breakfast, the remains of yes- terday's meal, I drew more towards the east, in order the -sooner to fall in with human beings, to eat bread, and taste salt. I had occasionally used gunpowder in- stead of salt, but my store of powder was not sufficient for such a luxury, and it was better to be without salt than without powder. Gun on shoulder, I trudged slowly and surely on, over hill and dale, through prairies and forest streams, to- wards the sun-rising, taking sharp notice of all around. While thus proceeding, wrapped in my thoughts sud- denly something rustled in a bush in front of me, and a bear started out and took to flight. My ball was soon in his interior ; on being hit, he stopped and looked round at me in a fury. Expecting nothing less than an attack, I quietly cocked the other barrel ; but his inten- tions of attacking me, seemed to pass off, and he crept into a thicket instead. I quickly loaded with ball, and followed him ; as I approached, he retreated slowly, pro- 70 HUNTING S^)RTS OF THE WEST. l>abl y suffering from his wound ; as soon as I got a clear view of his head, I fired again, but only grazed his skull. As I ran towards him, his fury increased, and he turned to meet me ; on taking aim with my second barrel, at about thirty paces, it missed fire. With open jaws, and ears laid back, he rushed towards me ; in this mortal danger I preserved my presence of mind. Dropping my gun, and drawing my knife, I sprang back a couple of paces, behind a small tree ; at this moment, the bear was only a few feet from me. As he rose on his hind legs to embrace me, he was almost as tall as I, and his fiery eyes and long teeth had nothing very attractive ; but he was not destined to know the taste of my flesh. I was quite collected, feeling sure that one or the other must die. The moment he tried to grasp me, I thrust my long double-edged hunting knife into the yawning abyss of his jaws, and boring it into his brain, I brought him to the ground. I did not then know bet- ter, but I ought to have sprung back after wounding him, and then I should have escaped unhurt. As it was, he dragged away my coat in falling, and tore my arm slightly. I thanked God that it was MO worse. There I sat on the sweet smelling heath, with my coat all in rags, and no other to put on. To assuage my sorrow, I cut a large steak from the bear, which tasted particu- larly good after my severe exertions. I carried away the skin. Iii the evening, I fell in with a herd of deer, but did not fire at them, as I was well provided with meat. On the following evening, I heard a shot. The sound ran through me like an electric shock. There were, LIFE AMONQ THE INDIANS. 71 then, other people in this wilderness, and not very far off, for the shooter must be on the other side of the near- est hill. I turned rapidly in the direction whence the sound came, and had hardly gained the crest of the hill, when a romantic and variegated scene spread itself be- fore my eyes. It was an Indian camp, and all were occupied in pitching their tents, and preparing for the night. Here, were some cutting tent-poles with their tomahawks ; there, women collecting firewood for cooking ; men se- curing the horses by hobbling their forelegs ; another skinning a deer. In short, it was life in the wilds in highest force. I should never have tired of looking at these noble muscular figures, their faces marked with various ochres, their heads adorned with feathers, and their bright-colored dresses. I was not long allowed to remain a spectator, for the dogs barked and ran at me. Breaking off a green bough, I went with it to the camp. The Indians called off the dogs, and all eyes were now directed towards the stranger. Going up to a group of young men, who were stretching a deer-skin, I asked -if any of them spoke English, and was directed to an elderly man, who was sitting smoking under a tree, and watching me. I told him that I was a traveler, that I wished to return to the banks of the Red river, and asked if I could pass the ni>ht in his camp. A considerable group of young men had, in the meantime, assembled round us. At length the old man asked, " Aje white men so scarce that you come alone into the wilderness?" I replied that I liad only conic for the sake of shooting, and now wished to 72 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. return. Instead of an answer, he silently gave me his pipe, out of which I took a few whiffs, and then handed it to one of the Indians standing near me. He did the same, and returned it to the chief. I now sat down be- side him. He asked a great many questions, amongst others, how I had torn my coat so badly ? Whereupon I related my affair with the bear. He smiled, and translated my account to the others, who also showed interest in my adventure. The chief then told me that it was highly dangerous for any one unused to these encounters, to risk such a fight, and that it was necessary to spring quickly back after the thrust, the dying bear having sometimes suc- ceeded in killing his enemy. He took particular notice of my double-barrelled gun and hunting-knife, and said that he had never before seen two barrels joined toge- ther. He spoke English better than I did, and, what was very agreeable, he spoke slowly. The Indians belonged to the Choctaw tribe, and were come out of Arkansas in search of game. As night came on, fires were burning all around us, and the wo- men, among whom were some beautiful figures, cooked the suppers, while the men quietly smoked their pipes. Finding the Indian fashion of staring at the fire, rather tedious, I made several attempts to engage the chief in conversation, but only received short answers, so that at last there was nothing left for it but to play the Indian, and maintain a dignified silence. At length we retired to rest. I slept on a bear-skin beside the fire, in front of the chief's tent. Before sun- rise, I was awakened by the noise and songs of the In- AN INDIAN SHOOTING PARTY. 73 dians who were preparing for a shooting excursion. I jumped up, and was getting ready to join them, but soon remem-bered that, with my ragged coat, I could not ven- ture among the thorns ; I should have been caught every moment. I showed it to one of the young men, he im- mediately ran off, and soon returned with a sort of coat, or rather hunting-shirt made out of a blanket. He made signs that he would sell it to me, and was delighted to receive a dollar for it, with the rags of my green coat into the bargain. For a second dollar, I obtained his embroidered belt, and was now quite set up again. Re- solving to be quite an Indian for the time, I left my game bag in the camp. We set off, sixteen in number, all on foot, some of the Indians with firearms, others with bows and arrows, with which they can hit their mark at a great distance. I attached myself to one of the young men with a bow and arrows, and, as we could not understand each other's language, we proceeded in silence. Each of us had pro- visions, which we ate as we went along. It may have been about noon when we saw a herd of deer. My com- panion went round to gain the wind of them, and shot a couple with his unerring arrows. Away flew the others in headlong fright, coming directly towards me, in such blind haste, that the leader of the herd, a fat buck of eleven, was little more than ten paces off, when he dis- covered me. My ball pierced his heart, and he fell without a cry. The rest flew in all directions. We were obliged to return to the camp for horses to carry our booty. My companion started off in a straight line for the camp, which I should never have been able 74 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. to find again. It was only a few miles distant, although I- thought it must he at least half a day's journey hehind us. On arriving at the camp, we each mounted on 'horse- hack, and rode off at a quick trot to the place where our game lay, which we found without difficulty, the Indian having marked several trees with his tomahawk as we returned. The last prize we came to was my huck, and on him we saw a wild-cat preparing to enjoy itself. The Indian rushed forward, and the cat, which did not per- ceive him till too late, flew up a tree, whence an arrow from the sure hand of my companion soon hrought it to the ground. It was of a gray color, and larger than the domestic cat. "When these animals are irritated they will attack men : my comrade carried off the skin. We rode back with our booty to the camp, and were received with cheers. The party all returned one after the other, most of them with game, one with an immense bear that he had killed, the largest I had yet seen. While cooking was going on, the young men danced and sang, the women taking no part in their amuse- ments, but quietly continuing their occupations. On the following morning the chief said that he had set a wolf-trap, and we went to see if anything had been caught. As there was plenty of food in the camp, we all went together, except three, who, having killed no- thing yesterday, set off to try their luck again to-day. We took four large strong dogs with us, and followed the chief. With a triumphant smile, he showed me where he had set the trap, and near it a trace of blood ; it was shown to the dogs, and they followed it up in full cry. After running about a mile, they barked louder and WOLF-TRAPS. 77 louder. We hurried on as fast as we could, and found the wolf at his last gasp under the furious attack of the dogs. They were immediately called off, and appeared to have suffered considerably, particularly one, whose ear the wolf, a great black beast, had bitten quite away. These traps are set with a bait, but not fastened, for if the wolf is caught, and the trap should be immovable, he would bite off his own leg sooner than let himself be taken. So the trap is only fastened by a chain to an iron clog with four hooks ; as soon as the wolf finds him- self caught, he attempts to hurry away with the trap, but is detained every moment by the hooks catching in the roots and bushes ; yet he manages to get clear again, and has been known to take the iron clog in his mouth but the trap . still remains a hinderance, and he is easily traced. By this time I had enjoyed Indian life long enough, and wished myself back again in more civilized society ; yet I remained another day with them, during which we shot at a mark with bows and arrows, and I caused many a smile among the Indians, as I shot a foot wide of the mark, which they seldom missed. We next threw toma- hawks at a tree, and in this practice I was rather more successful. On the following morning I resumed my journey to the east, provided with venison and coarse salt, and as I saw the last Indians disappear behind the trees, it seemed as if I was now for the first time alone in the forest ; but I soon became reaccustomed to my former life, and slept again this night, as well as a man can sleep, on grass and fragrant moss. 78 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. Kext day I came to the Sabine, seeking in vain for a ford ; and as the river was considerably swelled, and seemed wider and deeper further south, there was nothing for it but a swim. I made a small raft, which I bound together with creepers, and securing my gun, game-bag, knife, tomahawk, and powder-horn on the top of it, I pushed it before me to the opposite bank. On the 30th of January, as I arrived at the Great Red river', I saw a farm-house, and the crow of a cock broke on my ear as the music of the spheres. But the house was on the other side of the broad and swollen stream, which rolled along its dirty red waves at a fearful rate. In vain I shouted and roared myself hoarse ; a shot had no better effect. I had made up my mind to hide my gun and other things in the bush, and swim over, when a second shot roused the farmer's attention. He came to the bank, and seeing some one calling and beckoning on the opposite side, he cast off his canoe, and coming cross, was not a little astonishing at finding me alone. I received a hearty welcome from his family, who were exceedingly amused at the appetite with which I made the bread disappear, and at my enjoyment of the coffee. As I did not wish to remain here long, I soon came to an agreement with the farmer about the sale of his canoe ; he let me have it for four dollars, throwing a smoked- leg of venison, a roast turkey, and some loaves of maize bread into the bargain. I was soon afloat in this hollowed trunk, drifting ra- pidly down the stream, which carried gigantic trees along with it. The light craft dashed forward like an arrow under the strokes of my paddle, so that, according NARROW ESCAPE FOR MY CANOE. 79 to a reckoning made afterwards, I must have gone about 400 miles in five days. It was not till late in the night that I ran in among the reeds, and slept quietly in my own property. On the day after my departure, I fell in with a num- ber of planks ; they had probably been washed away from some village on the banks. They had floated against a tree, that was stuck fast in the bed of the river. Intending to take them with me, in the hope of making something by their sale, I paddled to the tree, and, in attempting to secure the planks, I over-reached myself; the current carried away the canoe from under me, and in an instant I was in the water, holding on to the bough of the tree, and close to an alligator. Luckily, the beast was as much afraid of me as I of him, and he disappeared under the water. I quickly swung myself on the bough to reach my canoe, but too late, it was already in the full strength of the current, leaving me hanging on the waving bough, with canoe, gun, powder, and all that I possessed, a prey to the waves. I saw perfectly well, at once, that I must either regain my canoe, or perish miserably of starvation, so I let go the bough, and swam with all my might towards the fugitive. It cost a quarter of an hour's desperate exertion before I reached it, and then I had to push her to the bank, in order to get onboard, for any attempt to do so in the middle of the stream, would have upset her. In regain- ing the canoe I had saved my life. When my store of provisions was exhausted, I shot wild fowl, and got them cooked at the nearest planta- 80 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. tion ; for now, as I approached Louisiana, the land was more occupied. Several hundred miles above its junction with the Mis- sissippi, the Great Red river is blocked up by numbers of trees that have been carried down and become fixed, and although the United States government has caused a passage for steamers to be cut through them, yet I was advised not to attempt it with my canoe, because the current ran through it with such force, that the least ob- stacle I might encounter, would infallibly overset the canoe. I was therefore obliged to traverse two lakes, called Clear Lake, and Soda Lake, which are connected with the river above and below the Raft, as the collec- tion of matted trees is called. I saw a great number of alligators sunning themselves on the warm sands. I shot ten or twelve of them, but could never prevail on myself to touch them. They were from three to twelve feet long, and sometimes even eighteen feet. Not far from the mouth of the river, on the fifth day, just about dusk, seeing something white in the water ahead of me, I paddled to it, and laid hold of it, but drew my hand back with a shudder, and the blood ran cold in my veins; it was a corpse; the naked white back alone floated above the surface, head, arms, and legs hanging down ; a wound several inches -long, was visible on the left side, just under the ribs. I pad- dled hastily away in sickening disgust, and left the hor- rid object behind me. On the following morning I entered the Mississippi, the excessively dirty " Father of Waters." The scenery assumed a more tropical character, and the long waving BY STEAMER TO NEW ORLEANS. 81 moss hanging from the gigantic trees, gave it a pecu- liarly strange aspect. After entering this magnificent river, I took on board fresh provender, not far from the junction, and directed my course towards that " New Orleans," now some 240 miles distant, about which I had heard so much. But on the second day, when I was still some hundred miles from it, a little above Ba- ton Rouge, it came on to blow fresh, and the wind caused such a swell in the river, that I could no longer keep my little craft free of water, indeed it was not with- out great effort and difficulty that I was able to reach the shore. There was a farm near the place where I landed, whose owner had a quantity of wood for sale, ready cut, and piled up for the use of steamers. A steamer bound for New Orleans, was in the act of wooding at the time. It would have been folly to have attempted to continue the voyage in such a swell in so frail a craft as mine, and as I found the farmer willing to buy her, we soon agreed as to terms. I transferred my effects to the steamer, and late on the same evening, arrived at New Orleans. For the night I slept on board, but early the next morning went to a German tavern to refresh myself after all the hardships I had undergone, and to sleep in a regular bed. Oh, how comfortably I stretched myself on the soft mattress ! I got up very early to have a look at the place, having no wish to show myself in the costume of a savage, when the streets were thronged. For nine months my hair had been uncut, and during five, no razor had approached my chin ; then what, with my old woollen hunting-shirt, my embroidered belt, and 6 82 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. 4fe the high waterproof boots, which had faithfully held out to the last, people would have thought me more like a scarecrow than a human being ; my first visit was to a barber. I had heard too much boasting and bragging about New Orleans, not to be disappointed in my expecta- tions. I found it by no means so splendidly or so taste- fully built as was asserted, and as I walked along the narrow streets my thoughts wandered to the far more agreeable Cincinnati. The only handsome building in New Orleans, and one without parallel, is the St. Charles' Hotel, which certainly is very magnificent. It is no wonder that the air of New Orleans should be generally so unhealthy, and in autumn, quite pestilen- tial ; for the town is built in a complete swamp, and re- quired to be protected by a dam, from being submerged by the river. It certainly was never intended by nature for the abode of man ; at most, it is fitted for alligators, frogs and mosquitoes. It is the churchyard of the Uni- ted States. HUNTING IN ARKANSAS. Mr. Gerstaecker, in the course of his wanderings, made the acquaintance of another man, as fond of hunt- ing as himself, to whom he gives the name of Slowtrap. We suspect that this, as well as all the other names he gives to real personages, is invented for the occasion. HABITUAL RESERVE OF THE AMERICANS. 83 The following is an account of his visit to Slowtrap's dwelling in Arkansas ; and some of his hunting adven- tures in company with his hospitable friend : At length the swamps were behind us. We crossed a small prairie, passed an old buffalo salt-lick, and ar- rived at Slowtrap's dwelling, planted on a spur of the hills which ran out into the plains. It was in no way different from the usual log-houses, sixteen feet square, from nine to ten high, with an enormous fireplace, no window, and weighted roof; close by was afield of about seven acres, planted with maize. His wife and children stood at the door as we arrived, and although I knew that they were much attached to each other, and lived happily together, and he had been about three weeks absent, not the least word' was exchanged that could be construed into a greeting. " Take my saddle in," said S. to his eldest son, a boy of eight years old, who was leaning on the fence, looking at us as if we were perfect strangers, in whom he had no concern. At last, when the horse was cared for, and all things in their places, S. went into the house, took a seat, and lifted his young- est child into his lap ; and then he said, " How do you do, all of you?" This distant reserve of the Ame- ricans, so prevalent even in their own families, often struck cold on my heart, and made me regret my native land. Man and wife are often as reserved towards each other as two strangers .who meet for the first time, and care not about meeting again. I have seen Americans leave home, to be absent for months, without shaking hands with their wives, or saying " good-bye," and it is the same on their return. I must believe, for the honor 84 HUNTING SPORTS OP THE WEST. of the Americans, that this reserve is mere custom, and does not proceed from any real want of affection, as I have seen proofs of deep feeling amongst them, but it always made a disagreeable impression on me. But still worse was it to see Germans aping this fashion, as often happened to be my lot. When quietly seated, I took a survey of the dwelling. In two corners stood two large beds, covered with good stout quilts of many colors ; between the beds, about four feet from the ground, was a shelf holding a few more quilts, and the linen of the family, which was not over-abundant, comprising three or four articles for each person. Under this shelf were two "gums," trunks of a hollow tree, about a foot in diameter, and two and a half or three feet high, with a piece of board nailed on the bottom. They are applied to all sorts of purposes : I have seen them used as beehives ; these, I subsequently found, were one for flour, and the other for salt. Two wooden hooks over the door, supported my host's long rifle, with his powder-horn and shot-pouch. A shelf held some shoemaker's tools, leather, &c., Gun's Domestic Medicine, a family Bible, the Life of Washington, the Life of Marion, Franklin's Maxims, an almanac, and a well-worn map of the United States. Various files, awls, broken knives, and a bullet-mould, were stuck into the crevices of logs near the fireplace. On the left of it were two short shelves, with four plates, two cups, three saucers, some tin pots, and a large coffee-pot, 'all as bright and clean as possible. In the corner of the fireplace, was an iron pan with a cover, for baking, bread, and two saucepans, one broken. Several joints MECHANICAL INGENUITY OF BACKWOODSMEN. 85 of smoked meat hung from the roof, surrounded by strips of dried pumpkin, suspended on poles. The above-named boy, a girl of ten, a blue-eyed, flaxen- haired, rosy-cheeked girl of four, diligently munching a bunch of wild grapes, and the little one on my friend's lap, formed the family; they all looked shyly at me, tkough they had seen me six months before, so that I was not quite a stranger to them. We had agreed to set off for the mountains at 'once but Slowtrap found some business to detain him at home, so it was put off till the next week, and I amused myself in the mean time as well as I could ; and as I was ac- quainted with the country, I took my rifle, and paid a few visits to old acquaintances, returning to Slowtrap's on the 12th December, partly on account of the cold wet weather, and partly to mend my moccasins, which had suffered severely from the sharp stones of these moun- tains. Slowtrap happened to be mending a pair of shoes at the same time. It is a general practice with the back- woodsmen to make their own shoes, and a regular shoe- maker is a scarce article in this part of the world. As they are thrown on their own resources from their youth, these Americans are very skillful in providing for their necessary wants, and are particularly expert with the axe, which they begin to wield as soon as their arms are strong enough to lift it. They use it for a variety of purposes building houses, laying roofs and floors, form- ing the chimneys and doors, the only other tool used be- ing an auger ; and nothing amuses them more than to see the awkwardness of a new comer, when first he handles an axe. Besides making their own shoes, they under 86 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. stand enough of tanning to prepare the leather ; they make their own ploughs, dig wells, &c. ; for all which operations Europeans require so many different work- men. As we sat together before the fire, there was no dif- ficulty in getting Slowtrap to relate some of his adven- tures with the Indians in his early days. In the evening we brought in some pumpkins, and as we cut them into thin rings to hang on the poles to dry he began to speak in the following words of the perils he had been exposed to in Kentucky, and his narrow escapes from the Indians : " Kentucky was at that time a wilderness, when my father, my uncle, and myself, arrived near the dwelling of Daniel Boone, to look about for a spot that would suit us; for North Carolina, where we then lived, began to be too populous, and a man who wanted to shoot a turkey or partridge was tired before he had walked half an hour, from the number of fences he was obliged to climb over. I was then just eighteen, as strong as a four-year-old bear, and was delighted at the thought of meeting the Indians. It was about this time of the year, and the game we saw made our hearts bound : numbers of bears, deer, and buf- faloes ; while the turkeys would hardly get out of our way. It would tire you to tell you of all the sport we had, for no country in the world could boast of more game than Kentucky thirty years ago ; but now it is no better there than it was then in North Carolina, and five years hence, a man who wants to shoot a bear in Arkansas, will have many a weary mile to tramp. One evening we arrived at the edge of a cane-brake, and as there was good feeding for the horses, we resolved to pass the night AN INDIAN ADVENTURE. 87 there. We hobbled the forelegs of the horses with some bark of the papao tree, and hung a bell round the neck of niy uncle's mare. Yet, not being sure of escaping the vigilance of the Indians, we kept watch by turns. Noth- ing suspicious occurred till about midnight, when the sound of the bell ceased, which I, having the watch at the time, thought rather extraordinary, as the horses were not in the-habit of lying down till morning. The dogs also were restless, particularly a greyheaded bear- hound, who gave a howl when the wind came from the quarter where the horses had been left. I did not awake the two seniors, but I passed an anxious night. Towards morning I heard the bell again, but further off, and more to the right. My father woke about daybreak, and I told him what had disquieted me. It seemed rather sus- picious to him also, but he thought the horses might per- haps have strayed a little in search of fresh reeds. As soon as it was broad daylight, he took his bridle and rifle, and went with 'Watch,' the old dog, towards the sound of the bell, to bring back the horses. My uncle woke in the mean time. We had set a delicate morsel to broil. I was catching the dripping from some roasting bear's meat, in a piece of hollow bark, to baste the turkey, when my father came back without the horses, and said he had found infallible traces of Indians near our camp. My uncle wished to examine the marks ; so we shouldered our rifles, and proceeded to the place where the horses had been feeding the evening before. In one rather moist place there was a very clear impression of a moc- casin, and one of the savages had inconsiderately stepped on the trunk of a fallen tree, which being rotten, had , 88 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. yielded to his weight, leaving the mark of a foot. While examining it, we heard a noise in the canes. In an in- stant our rifles were all directed to the spot ; but it was only my horse sticking his head out of the canes, and neighing at sight of us. My uncle now settled that, as he was best acquainted with the cunning and tricks of the Indians, he would seek the horses alone, and nothing we urged could dissuade him from his purpose. IJe took my father's bridle, and my horse, and was soon mounted, slowly and cautiously following up the trail. Losing sight of him, we went back to the camp to look after our breakfast, which we had forgotten in the first excitement. We remained constantly listening for the sound of the bell, when we heard a shot, and directly afterwards three more in quick succession. We were up in an instant, started towards the sound, and soon heard the gallop of a horse, and saw my uncle advancing a"t full speed. When he reached us he pulled up short, so that the horse reared. His eyes were glazed ; he was very pale, reeled in his saddle, and fell into my arms, which I extended to receive Jiim. It was well for us that the Indians had not followed him, or we should have fallen an easy prey. My uncle recovered after a short time, and told us, with failing voice, that as he was following up the trail, he dis- tinctly heard the bell again at a little distance, and rid- ing cautiously forward, rather distrustful of the deep silence, he saw my father's horse standing by a fallen* tree. He rode up to him, keeping a sharp look-out all round ; and just as he leaned over to take hold of the bell-strap which was round his neck, an Indian appeared not fifteen paces off, took aim, and fired ; feeling himself INDIAN ADVENTURE RACCOON SHOOTING. 89 hit, he let go the horse, brought forward his rifle, and fired, when more dark figures appeared right and left. He turned his horse, and gave him the spurs. He sank fainting to the ground, and the dark blood flowed out as we opened his clothes. He was hit in three places, and two of the wounds were mortal. After a few minutes he raised himself again, gave us each a hand, which we pressed in silence, drew a deep breath, and fell back a corpse. We buried him on the spot, and vowed a deep revenge, which we faithfully consummated : a few nights afterwards, the wolves were tearing the flesh from three corpses over the fresh grave." Having finished his tale, my host sat for some time with his head leaning on his hand, thinking of times long past. His wife had fallen asleep : she had, probably, heard the tale many times before, and as it was rather late, we were all glad to retire. The dogs barked several times during the night, and about an hour and a half before daylight, they were quite furious ; supposing their excitement to be caused by raccoons, or opossums, we started up, and took our guns, called the dogs, and went into the piercing cold morning air, though it was too dark to see one's hand ; my thin deer-skin moccasins were soon frozen, which by no means added to my agreeable sensations. The bark of the dogs soon showed that they had chased something to a tree. As our feet were dreadfully cold, and it was still too dark to shoot, we lighted a fire, and though the dogs enjoyed its warmth, they never forgot the object of our being there, keeping their eyes fixed on the tree, and giving, from time to time, a short impatient howl. At 90 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. length a gleam appeared in the east ; gradually the forms of the nearest objects became visible ; as the light in- creased, we could make out, on one of the upper branches of a tree, a dark spot, which afterwards was distinctly seen to be a raccoon. S raised his rifle slowly, and took aim; the dogs jumped up, and looked to and fro from the muzzle of the gun to the dark spot on the tree, giving a slight whine the piece became steady a flash a sharp report and the creature fell dead from the top of the tree. The dogs seized it instantly, and it cost some trouble to rescue it from their fangs, before the skin was quite spoiled. We returned to the house, and rested again till break- fast. After breakfast I went out to shoot turkeys, which were very numerous ; but when I descended to the lower valley of the river, I found such an abundance of winter grapes, that I thought no more of my shooting, but gathering a good quantity, I lay down under a tree to enjoy them. After lying there about a couple of hours, I was rousecl by hearing the turkeys calling ; so, hiding myself behind a fallen tree, I "used my decoy pipe, and ten or a dozen stout fellows came strutting along. When they arrived within about twenty paces I gave a whistle, which brought them to a stand, and I shot the largest through the head. Satisfied with my prize, I returned to the house, and found that the grapes had quite spoiled my dinner. As the weather turned out fine and warm in the after- noon, determined to hunt in the wood for a swarm of wild bees, which we had sought for in vain about six BEE-HUNTING IN THE BACKWOODS. 91 months before. We took some bait with us, and went to a spot about half a mile off. To induce bees to take bait in the fall of the year, the hunter looks out for a small open space in their neighborhood, and if he cannot find one, he must make a clearance with his knife and tomahawk, stick a branch upright in the ground, and lay some leaves on it, spread with a little thinned honey. The bees soon discover it, and when they have got as much of the honey as they can carry, they rise in circles, which become larger and larger, till they attain a certain height, then they dash off direct for their own tree, to deposit their store in the general warehouse. The bee-hunter must take particu- lar notice of the line of their flight, which requires a good eye, and then carry his bait some two hundred yards further in that direction, when the bees . will soon flock round it again. If, when loaded, they keep the same course, it is a sign that ther tree is still in that di- rection, and the bait must be carried further, until they fly the other way. Then the bee-hunter will know that he has passed the tree, and that it must be between his present and his last station, and he is not long in find- ing it. When he comes near the tree, and the bees are at work, their unsteady. zigzag flight will betray its prox- imity. The first time we moved our bait, the bees flew back- ward, so we knew that we could not be more than a hun- dred yards from their tree ; but the approaching night prevented our discovering it. Next morning, about ten o'clock, as it began to get warm, we returned to our hunt, and in less than half an hour, found the hole where 92 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. the little laborers were passing in and out. It was in a nearly decayed, not very large post-oak, a tree that pre- fers moist soils, though it also grows on hills. It bears small and rather sweet acorns ; its wood is very durable, and will remain long in the ground without rotting. I rode hastily back to the house, for we had taken a horse with us for the chase, and returned with a pail, an axe, a knife, and a spoon. The tree soon fell u^der our blows smoke was made, the bees stupefied, an opening cut, and a most beautiful sight for a bee-hunter pre- sented itself, in a number of well-filled cells. We filled the pail with the best, ate as much as our stomachs would bear, set the tree on fire, that the bees might not lead us astray in our next hunt, and returned to the house. As there were several things to be done about the house, we remained at home, cut down firewood, and carried it to the house, ground flour in Slowtrap's excel- lent steel mill, and when the .evening shadows began to lengthen fast, we sat by the fire, and the old fellow, ren- dered good-humored fry the successful bee-hunt, began again with his stories. In the course of the day, we had seen a man pass by with a smooth-bored gun, and as such a thing was a rarity in the backwoods, the conver- sation turned on this circumstance. He said : "I once had a smooth-bored gun, called a musket, and not far from the house where we then lived, was a small lake, generally covered with wild fowl. One morning I took the old thumper, for it kicked tremendously, and lounged towards the lake to have a shot. I had not gone far along the bank, when I saw through a gap, a number of DUCK-SHOOTING CURLY THE SETTLER. 93 ducks swimming quietly on the other side of a thick bush ; a fallen tree stretching out into the lake, seemed to offer a good bridge to approach them by. When I got to the end of it, and was about sixty yards from the birds, I raised the heavy old musket to take aim, but knowing how old kill-devil kicked, I leant as far for- ward as possible, with the firm conviction that the recoil would drive me back on the tree. Three ducks were swimming in a line, and thinking this a good chance, I pulled the trigger, leaning, if possible, still further for- ward in the act; but it only snapped, the expected recoil failed, and I fell head over heels into the lake. I had some trouble in getting back again to the shore, and never saw ducks or musket again." The sky seemed to promise a continuance of fine weather, and as there was no prospect at present of Slowtrap's visit to the mountains, I resolved to take a little shooting excursion alone. The shooting on the north of the river was not so good as on the south, as there were fewer settlements ; so I determined to cross over, and try my luck. A young man of the name of Curly, lived close to the south bank ; he was certainly strongly suspected of horse-stealing, but in other respects was a good fellow, and a capital sportsman ; his little weakness respecting horse-flesh was a matter of indiffer- ence to me, he could not steal any of mine, so I went to the river and hailed, when he soon brought his canoe and carried me across. He was easily persuaded to accompany me for a few days, first requesting time to prepare some provisions. He lived in a small block-house, close to the river, sur- 94 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. rounded by trees, and without an inch of cultivated land ; he subsisted mostly by shooting. He had only lately arrived ; his mother, wife, and sister lived in the house with him. As he had no flour in store, it was necessary to grind some, but his mill was more like a mortar than anything else. Such mills are frequent in Arkansas. A sound tree is cut off about three feet from the ground, and hollowed by fire, knife, and chisel, till it will hold about as much as a pail ; it is made as smooth as possi- ble, and a logger-head, or pestle of hard wood, is sus- pended to a balanced pole, such as is frequently fitted to wells. It may be imagined that pounding corn in this way is hard work, and as only a small quantity at a time can be prepared, it has to be done before every meal ; but this is the only resource of all those who are too poor to buy a steel mill. At last Curly had as much as would serve for two days, in case we shot nothing. He rolled up in his blanket all the things he^ meant to take, hung his tin pot and tomahawk to his belt, and off we set into the glorious freedom of the forest. We might have gone about three miles, when we came on the trail of several deer, though we had seen nothing of the precious creatures themselves ; and as it began to grow dark, and we found ourselves near a bubbling spring, and a black hawberry bush looked very attrac- tive, we resolved 'to camp there, and to begin our sport as early as possible in the morning. We cast off our blankets, laid down our rifles, and collected wood for a fire, the night promising to be rather cold. We soon had a fire, of which a volcano need not have been ashamed, and lay down to repose. Our supper consisted A PRIZE CURLY'S MISHAP. 95 of dried venison, slices of bacon, maize bread, and cof- fee ; a princely repast for the forest ; but we hoped to have fresh meat on the morrow. We breakfasted with the first gleam of light, fed the dogs, and related stories until it was light enough to see the sights on the muzzles of the rifles ; then taking our preconcerted directions, we trod lightly and cautiously over the dried leaves. A little before sunrise I heard the crack of Curly's rifle ; a few minutes later a second report, then a third. I stood still for about a quarter of an hour, in case a frightened deer should bound past. Nothing moved ; I continued my march. I had not gone far when I saw a majestic buck at a walk. I crept lightly to a right angle with ,hkcourse ; when about eighty yards off, I gave a hail : he stopped, and my ball pierced his shoulder ; after a few bounds, he lay strug- gling in the yellow leaves. Bearsgrease rushed after him, but finding him already dead, he only licked the wound, and lay quietly beside him, waiting for his share of the prize. I took the skin and the two legs, hanging the latter on a tree with the skin over them, cut a few bits of the rest for Bearsgrease, leaving the remainder for the wolves and vultures, and continued my march. Soon after I heard a shot, about a hundred yards off on the other side of a thick jungle, and proceeded towards the sound. It turned out to be Curly, who had killed a tur- key ; he* was lying under a tree, and told me, with a mournful visage, that, having wounded a buck, he was following him over some loose stones, when he sprained his ankle, and could hardly move, being obliged to leave the wounded deer to its fate. 96 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. As we had traversed the country in a circle, we were not far from our last night's camp. I helped him to it as well as I could, and both heing hungry, we roasted the turkey. But Curly had lost all heart for shooting, and, with the help of a big stick, limped slowly homewards, where he could lay up his leg to nurse. I could not tear myself away so soon, and continued my sport alone. As the sky grew cloudy and threatening, I made a tent of my blanket, and collected wood enough to defy any quantity of rain that might fall. When all this was arranged, I went to the tree where I had left my venison and skin, and to give Bearsgrease another feed from the carcase. But I was too late ; the vultures had left noth- ing but the bones, and had torn the skin on the tree, which, however, I was in time to rescue, and hanging it over my shoulders, with the legs safe in my arms, I re- turned to my camp. Having made a good fire, and roasted a slice of meat, the coffee being all gone, and the bread reduced to one small piece, I fed my dog, and lay down to repose. About midnight I was awakened by a formidable thunderstorm. Bearsgrease began to howl dreadfully, and close behind me an oak burst into flames. Flash followed flash, while the thunder was incessant; the whole forest seemed to swim in a lake of fiery brim- stone, the rain poured in torrents, and the little stream swelled to a foaming river. When the storm ceased, silence and darkness took its place, only disturbed by the rustling of the rain falling perpendicularly on the leaves. My blanket protected me well ; I was perfectly dry, and soon fast asleep again. Towards morning it cleared up, and the weather was the most glorious for shooting that AN UNPLEASANT NOCTURNAL VISITOR. 97 could possibly be imagined. I was on foot by daybreak, and by ten o'clock I had three deer hanging to the trees. My last night's repose having been broken by the storm, and yesterday's and to-day's exertions having fatigued me very much, I threw myself under a tree, and enjoyed a delightful nap. The sun was near the horizon when I awoke, and there was hardly time for me to return to camp and collect wood before dark, for the night threat- ened to be very cold : but it was bright starlight, and my blanket was dry, so I rolled myself comfortably in its folds. I lay awake till past midnight, giving the reins to my imagination ; and when I fell asleep I dreamed of stretched deerskins, and that Bearsgrease was chasing an immense buck, when his loud barking and howling awoke me. I patted him to keep him quiet, and found his hair all brist- ling up. I thought wolves must be near us ; and listen- ing attentively, I heard the cautious tread of some heavy beast over the dry frosty leaves. I laid some dry fir branches, which were near me, on the fire, to make it burn up bright, and placed myself between it and the noise of the footsteps, in order to dis- tinguish the eyes of my untimely visitor, and shoot him. Three times I caught sight of two glowing balls, and from their rapid disappearance I was convinced that I had to do with a panther. He went round and round the fire several times, but never close enough for me to distin- guish his form ; and I passed half an hour with my rifle at my cheek, in the greatest anxiety, the dog pressing close to my side, with all his nerves on the stretch, fol- 7 98 HUNTING SPOUTS OP THE WEST. lowing the tread of the panther, and giving a fearftd howl every time he passed across the wind. The brute, not possessing courage enough to attack, at length withdrew ; but I remained a good quarter of an hour longer on the watch, till the dog, persuaded that all was safe, had lain down again, when I followed his example, wrapped myself in my blanket, and was soon fast asleep. The morning was bitterly cold ; and as I had nothing on my feet but a pair of thin deer-skin moccasins, not even stockings, I thought of a plan I had learned from an old sportsman, and bathed my feet in the icy cold water of the stream, dried them well, and put on my moccasins. My feet were soon in a glow, and remained warm all the morning. I started at daylight, and followed the course of the stream downwards; but the bushes grew thicker and thicker, and I was about returning to cross the hill to another brook, when I caught sight of a noble stag in the thicket on my right. I crept quickly and silently round the bush to cut him off, when suddenly I heard a most heart-rending cry from a deer. My first impulse was to rush towards the sound, and on the first move- ment I made for this purpose, Bearsgrease bounded for- wards ; but I thought better of it, and a sharp whistle stopped the dog in his career. A second fainter whistle brought him to my side ; then, hiding behind a tree, I reflected on what was best to be done. The shriek certainly came from a deer, and nothing but a panther could have caused it; for if it had been a SHOOTING A PANTHER. 99 wolf, all would not have been silent again so soon, as a wolf could not have overpowered a deer so quickly. Now, I had often heard from Americans how the pan- ther darts on his prey, kills it in an instant, and, after eating his fill, buries or covers up the rest for a future meal. I resolved to try and make sure of the panther, and, if possible, to creep up to him unperceived. I did not then know how difficult it was to outwit a panther ; but this time fortune favored me. After waiting about half an hour, I thought I might make the attempt, and crept lightly and cautiously to- wards the thicket; the dog, well knowing my object, crept as silently after me. Just as I gained the edge of the thicket, and was looking out for the best place to en- ter it with the least noise, I heard a light rustling. My heart began to beat violently, the bush opened, and my eyes encountered the fierce orbs of the panther. Doubt- less, in the first moment of surprise, he did not know exactly what to do ; but his surprise did not last long : a panther has a bad conscience, and justly supposes a foe in every living being not belonging to his own race ; and, crouching down about twenty paces from me in the yellow grass, he was preparing either to make a spring, or to hide himself, I could not tell which. But I was not idle ; during the time he stooped, my arm had re- covered its steadiness, the rifle cracked, the animal made one spring upwards, and fell dead to the earth. Bears- grease seized him on the instant, and seemed to take exquisite pleasure in shaking the skin of his deadliest foe, and he cast many a longing look behind, when, at my command he followed up the panther's trail. We 100 HUNTING SPORTS OF THE WEST. soon came to the place where he had killed the buck, and covered it with leaves ; the skin had been so mauled that it was useless., but I stripped off the panther's, and set out on my return to my camp, deciding to go back to old Slowtrap's, and to commence my march on the Ozark mountains as soon as possible. On arriving at the camp, I tied up the skin with strips of bark, and although I took very little of the venison with me, I had a heavy load. I reached Curly 's in the evening. As it was nearly dark, I had no fancy for crossing the river at night, and creeping for half an hour through a cane-brake, with the chance of getting my eyes poked out ; so I remained with Curly. The house was small, but it contained two large bedsteads, one table, three chairs, two plates, and one cup ; a hole in the wall did duty for the absent window. We passed a very pleasant evening. Curly sang well, and gave us a number of Irish comic songs, till, tired with laughing and the severe exertions of the day, I rolled myself in my blanket, and laid myself by the fire. I was up at daybreak, and the river being low, waded through, hastened to Slowtrap's, and spread out my skin. Slowtrap was out shooting wild fowl, which had collected in such numbers on a little river, running into the Fourche le Fave, that I never saw anything like it ; they positively covered the water, and a good double-barrelled gun might have done immense havoc, particularly as the steep banks favored the approach to within thirty yards of the ducks. Supposing the old fellow not to be far off, I took my rifle, and lounged down to the brink, of the river ; not HUNTING BEARS AND PANTHERS. 103 with any intention of shooting, as my rifle had too large a bore ; but I came upon a string of ducks, not more than fifteen yards off. This was too enticing ; I raised the gun, and off went the golden green head of the largest of them. I reloaded, fished out my bird, and was turning up the stream, when I heard Slowtrap's gun above a mile off, and as I had no intention of walking so far, I took my duck by the neck, and walked home. Where wad my home? Wherever I happened to be whore I had erected a bark shed, or spread my blanket, or lighted a fire, or where the hospitable roof of a farmer or backwoodsman received me ; though the next morning mi