A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY: COMPRISING DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF PERFUMES, SACHET POWDERS, FUMIGATING MATERIALS, DENTIFRICES, COSMETICS, ETC., ETC., WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE VOLATILE OILS, BALSAMS, RESINS, AND OTHER NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-SUBSTANCES, INCLUDING THE MANUFACTURE OF FRUIT ETHERS, AND TESTS OF THEIR PURITY. BY DR. C. DEITE, ASSISTED BY L. BORCHERT, F. EICHBAUM, E. KUGLER, H. TOEFFNER, AND OTHER EXPERTS. FROM THE GERMAN BY WILLIAM T. BRANNT, EDITOR OP " THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL, RECEIPT-BOOK." ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS, PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, 'BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, ''^-. 810 WALNUT STREET. 1892. TIE. SIT VII COPYRIGHT BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. 1892. PRINTED AT THE COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE, 705 Jayne Street, PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A, %rag> PREFACE. A TRANSLATION of the portion of the "Handbuch der Parfiimerie-und Toiletteseif- enfabrikation," edited by Dr. C. DEITE, relat- ing to perfumery and cosmetics, is presented to the English reading public with the full confi- dence that it will not only fill a useful place in technical literature, but will also prove for what it is chiefly intended a ready book of reference and a practical help and guide for the perfumer's laboratory. The names of the editor and his co-workers are a sufficient guaranty of its value and practical usefulness, they all^ being experienced men, well schooled each in the particular branch of the industry, the treatment of which has been assigned to him. The most suitable and approved formulae, tested by experience, have been given; and IV PEEFACE. special attention has been paid to the descrip- tion of the raw materials, as well as to the various methods of testing them, the latter being of special importance, since in no other industry has the manufacturer to contend with such gross and universal adulteration of raw materials. It is hoped that the additions made here and there by the translator, as well as the portion relating to the manufacture of " Fruit Ethers," added by him, may contribute to the interest and usefulness of the treatise. Finally, it remains only to be stated that, with their usual liberality, the publishers have spared no expense in the proper illustration and the mechanical production of the book ; and, as is their universal practice, have caused it to be provided with a copious table of con- tents and a very full index, which will add additional value by rendering any subject in it easy and prompt of reference. W. T. B. PHILADELPHIA, May 2, 1892. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. PAGE Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of the Orient 17 Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use for embalming the dead ; Arts of the toilet in ancient times 1 - 18 Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews ; Olibanum and the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by Herodotus . . . . . . . . .19 Pliny's account of olibanum . . . . .20 Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the ancients ; The holy oil prescribed by Moses ; Origin of the sweet- scented ointment " myron" . . . . 21 Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special oint- ments used for each part of the body ; Introduction of ointments in Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of for- eign ointments ; Plutarch on the extravagant use of oint- ments in Rome ........ 22 Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments ; Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides . 23 Ancient process of distilling volatile oils ; Dioscorides' s direc- tions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans ; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers 24 Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories b^ the Romans . . ... .25 VI CONTENTS. Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman ladies ; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages / Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physi- cians, and of Guy de Chanlios '26 Giovanni Marinello's work on " Cosmetics for Ladies ;" In- troduction of the arts of the toilet into France, by Cather- ine de Medici and Margaret of Valois . . . .27 Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commence- ment of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century f 28 Importance of the perfumer's craft in France ; Chief seats of the French perfumery industry . . . .29 Privileges of the parfumeurs-gantiers in France; Use of perfumes in England ; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling him into matrimony .... 30 - - f CHAPTJ:R-JI. THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants . . .31 , Families of plants richest in oil ; Central Europe the actual flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the cultivation of plants . . . . . . .32 Volatile oils and their properties 33 Principal divisions of volatile oils ..... 34 Constitution of terpenes ; Concentrated volatile oils . . 35 Modes of gaining volatile oils ; Expression ... 36 Clarification of the oil 37 Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described . . 38 Distillation 39 Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described . 40 Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated and described . .41 CONTENTS. Vll PAGE Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air ; Separation of the oil and water ; Florentine flasks, illustrated and described 46 Separator- funnel, illustrated and described . . .47 Extraction ......... 48 Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described 49 Heyl's distilling apparatus 57 Maceration or infusion ; Pomades ; Purification of the fats used in the maceration process ..... 58 Huiles antiques ; Old French process of maceration ; Fiver's maceration apparatus, illustrated and described . 59 Flowers for which" maceration is employed ; Absorption or enjieurage . . . . . . . . . 60J$t* Apparatuses for absorption, illustrated -and described . . 61 e Flowers for which the absorption process is employed ; Stor- age of volatile oils . . . . . . .65 CHAPTER III. TESTING VOLATILE OILS. Extensive adulteration of volatile oils ; Testing volatile oils as to odor and taste ....... 66 Recognition of an adulteration with fat oil . . .67 Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine ; Dragendorff's test . 68 Hager's tannin test 69 Detection of chloroform ; Detection of benzine . . 71 Quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine ...... 72 Detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids 73 Detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality ; Test with iodine . . , . . .74 Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test .... 75 Table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen towards nitroprusside of copper 76 Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test ; Hager's guaiacum reaction .... . 78 Vlll CONTENTS. PAGK Division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum reaction 79 Hubl's iodine method 80 A. Kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic potash lye . . . . . . . .81 Utilization of Maumene's test by F. R. Williams . . 82 Planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil 83 CHAPTER IV. THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. Acacia oil or oil of cassie ; Almond oil (bitter) . . .87 Adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection . 90 Angelica oil . . . . . . . . .92 Anise-seed oil . . . . . . . ... 93 Star anise oil . 94 Balm oil ; Basil oil ; Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves . 96 Bergamot oil ; Testing bergamot oil as to its purity . . 97 Cajeput oil . . : , . ...... . 98 Camomile or chamomile oil ; Blue camomile oil ; Green camomile oil ..... .. . . 99 Caraway oil ; Recognition of the purity of caraway oil . 1 00 Cedar oil ; Cherry-laurel oil ...... 101 Detection of oil of mirbane in cherry- laurel oil ; Cinnamon oils; Ceylon cinnamon oil 102 Cassia oil 103 Cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves ; Quantitative determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil . .104 Detection of adulterations in cassia oil ; Citron oil . . 106 Detection of adulterations in citron oil ; Citronella oil ; De- tection of adulterations in Citronella oil . . . .107 Oil of cloves 108 Test for the value of oil of cloves . . . . .109 Eucalyptus oil 110 Fennel oil 111 CONTENTS. IX PAGE Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil ; East Indian geranium oil; French and African geranium oils . 112 Adulterations of geranium oils ; Jasmine oil, or oil of jessa- mine . . . . .113 Juniper oil . . . . . . . ; .114 Lavender oil ; Spike oil . . . . . . ^ . 115 Detection of adulterations of lavender oil ; Lemon oil ; Sponge process of obtaining lemon oil ... . .116 Ecuelle process . . . . . . . .117 Distillation ; Apparatus combining the Ecuelle and distilling processes, illustrated and described . . . .118 Adulterations of oil of lemons and their detection : Lilac oil; Oil of limes 121 Licari oil, linaloe oil; Marjoram oils; Spanish marjoram oil 122 Mignonette oil ; Myrrh oil . . . . . .123 Nutmeg oils ; Mace oil ; Adulterations of mace oil and their detection 124 Opopanax oil ; Orange-peel oil, Portugal oil or essence of Portugal; Mandarin oil . .' . . . .125 Orange-flower oil or neroli oil ; Neroli Portugal oil ; Culti- vation of the orange on the French Riviera and yield of orange blossoms ; Characteristics of oil of orange flowers . 1 26 Adulterations of neroli oil and their detection . . .127 Petit-grain oil ; Oil of orris root . . . . .129 Patchouli oil . . .130 Varieties and characteristics of patchouli oil . . .131 Peppermint oil ; Oil of curled mint ; Peppermint oil and its varieties ......... 132 American oils of peppermint of high reputation; Mode of distinguishing American, German, and English oils of peppermint . . . . . . . . .133 Adulterants of peppermint oil and their detection . .134 Poley oil . . . . ' 135 Pimento oil or oil of allspice ; Rose oil or attar of roses ; Principal localities of its production; Schimmel & Co.'s, of Leipzic, Germany, experiment to obtain oil from in- digenous roses .... . . . 136 X CONTENTS. PAGE The rose-oil industry in Bulgaria ; Methods of gathering and distilling the roses 137 Characteristics of pure rose oil 138 Manner of judging the genuineness of rose oil ; Process for the insulation and determination of stearoptene in rose oil 139 Adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil . . 140 Test for the adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil era- ployed in Bulgaria . . . . . . .141 Adulterants of rose oil . . . . . . .142 Tests for rose oil ; Approximate quantitative determination of spermaceti in rose oil . . . . . .143 Rosemary oil ; Detection of adulterations in rosemary oil . 144 Rosewood oil or rhodium oil; Sandal-wood oil; Sassafras oil; Characteristics of sassafras oil . . . .115 Thyme oil * ^ . 147 Oil of turpentine ; Austrian oil of turpentine ; German oil of turpentine ; French oil of turpentine ; Venetian oil of turpentine . . . . . . . . . 148 American oil of turpentine ; Pine oil ; Dwarf pine oil ; Krummholz or Latschenoel ; Pine-leaf oil; Templin oil (Kienoel) ; Balsalm-pine oil .... . . 149 Oil of verbena ; Oil of violet ; Vitivert or vetiver oil . . 150 Wintergreen oil . . . . . . . .151 Birch oil; Artificial preparation of methyl salicylate . . 152 Adulteration of wintergreen oil and its detection ; Ylang- ylang oil . . . ' _ . . . . . .153 Cananga oil . . . . . . . .154 CHAPTER V. RESINS AND BALSAMS. Elementary constituents of resins ; Division of resins ; Hard resins ; Soft resins or balsams ; Gum-resins . . . 155 Diffusion of resins in the vegetable kingdom ; Benzoin v . 156 Varieties of benzoin and their characteristics . . .157 Peru balsam and mode of obtaining it . . . .159 AVhite Peru balsam , 160 CONTENTS. XI PAGE Characteristics of Peru balsam . . . . . .161 Adulterants of Peru balsam and their detection . . .162 Tolu balsam and its characteristics . . . . .166 A new variety of Tolu balsam . .^ . . . . . 167 - Storax ; Liquid storax and its characteristics . . .168 Adulteration of liquid storax and its detection . . .170 Storax in grains ; Ordinary storax . . . . .171 American storax, white Peru balsam, white Indian balsam, or liquid-ambar ; Myrrh . . . '. . . 172 \ Myrrha electa and its characteristics . , . . .173 Constitution of myrrh . . ... . . 1 74 Adulteration of myrrh and its detection . . . .175 Opopanax ; Olibanum or frankincense . . . .176 Commercial varieties of olibanum ; Sandarac and its charac- teristics . . . . . . . . .177 CHAPTER VI. PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. Musk and its varieties ; Musk sacs, illustrated and described 1 78 Characteristics of Tonkin musk 180 Musk of the American musk-rat as a substitute for genuine musk 181 Other possible substitutes for the musk-deer ; Artificial musk 182 Adulterations of musk and their detection . . . .183 Civet 184 Castor and its varieties . . . . . . .185 Adulterations of castor ; Ambergris . . . . .186 Constituents of ambergris 187 Adulterations of ambergris 188 CHAPTER VII. ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. Conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by Bouch- ardat and Lafont .189 Cumarin, its occurrence and properties . . . .190 Xll CONTENTS. PAGE Varieties of tonka beans found in commerce . . .191 Preparation of cumarin from tonka beans ; Artificial prepa- ration of cumarin from salicylic acid . . . .192 Synthetical preparation of cumarin ; Heliotropin or pipe- ronal and its characteristics 193 Preparation of heliotropin . . . . . .194 Vanillin; Characteristics of the vanilla . . . .195 Artificial preparation of vanillin . . . . .196 Characteristics of vanillin . . . . . .197 Adulteration of vanillin, and its detection ; Nitrobenzol . 198 Characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane ; adultera- tion of nitrobenzol and its detection . . . .199 Fruit ethers and their characteristics 200 Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, its preparation and use ; Acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation . . 201 Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation . . 204 Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate ; Preparation of buty- ric acid ......... 205 Preparation of butyric ether . . . . . .207 St. John's bread or carob as material for the preparation of butyric ether . ..... .209 Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate and its preparation . 210' Nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according to Kopp's method . . " . . . . ' . 211 Preparation and use of nitrous ether in England and America 212 Valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation 214 Valerianic ethyl ether ; Apple ether ; Apricot ether ; Cherry ether ; Pear ether ; Pineapple ether ; Strawberry ether ; Preparation of fruit essences ; Apple essence ; Apricot essence .......... 216 Cherry essence ; Currant essence ; Grape essence ; Lemon essence ; Melon essence ; Orange essence ; Peach essence ; Pear essence ; Pineapple essence ; Plum essence . .217 Raspberry essence ; Strawberry essence . . . .218 CONTENTS. Xlll CHAPTER VIIL ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. PACK Division of alcoholic perfumes ; What constitutes the. art of the perfumer ; Qualities of flower-pomades and their, designation 219 Storage of flower-pomades ; Extraction of flower-pomades 220 Apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pom- ades, illustrated and described . . . . .221 Beyer freres improved apparatus, illustrated and described 223 Tinctures and extracts and their preparation . . . 225 Beyer freres apparatus for the preparation of tinctures, illus- trated and described . . . . . . .226 Musk tincture ; Civet tincture 228 Ambergris tincture ; Castor tincture ; Benzoin tincture ; Peru balsam tincture ; Tolu balsam tincture . . . 229 Olibanum tincture ; Opopanax tincture ; Storax tincture ; Myrrh tincture ; Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture . . 230 Angelica root tincture ; Orris-root tincture ; Musk-root or sumbul-root tincture ; Tonka-bean tincture . . .231 Cumarin tincture; Heliotropin tincture; Vanilla tincture; Vanillin tincture . .232 Vitivert tincture ; Juniper-berry tincture; Patchouli extract 233 Tinctures from volatile oils ; Almond-oil (bitter) tincture ; Balm-oil tincture ; Bergamot-oil tincture ; Canango-oil tincture 234 Cassia-oil tincture ; Cedar-oil tincture ; Cinnamon-oil tinc- ture ; Citronella-oil tincture ; Clove-oil tincture ; Eucalyp- tus-oil tincture ; Geranium-oil tincture ; Lavender-oil tincture ; Lemon- grass- oil tincture ; Lemon -oil tincture ; Licari-oil tincture ; Myrrh-oil tincture ; Neroli-oil tinc- ture ; Opopanax-oil tincture ; Orris-root-oil tincture ; Patchouli-oil tincture 235 Petit-grain-oil tincture ; Pine-leaf-oil tincture ; Portugal-oil tincture ; Sandal- wood-oil tincture ; Verbena-oil tincture ; Vitivert-oil tincture ; Wintergreen-oil tincture ; Ylang- ylang-oil tincture ; Rose-oil tincture .... 236 XIV CONTENTS. Extraits aux fleurs ; Extrait acacia ; Extrait cassie ; Extrait heliotrope; Extrait jacinthe . . . . . .237 Extrait jasmin ; Essence of the odor of linden blossoms ; Extrait jonquille ; Extrait magnolia ; Extrait muguet (lily of the valley) ; Extrait fleurs de Mai (May flowers) 238 Extrait ixora ; Extrait orange ; Extrait white rose ; Extrait rose v. d. centifolie ; Extrait violette ; Coloring substance for extraits ; Extrait de violette de Panne . . .239 Extrait tubereuse ; Extrait re^da ; Extrait ylang-ylang ; Compound odors (bouquets) ; Extrait Edelweiss; Extrait ess-bouquet ......... 240 Extrait spring flower ; Extrait bouquet Eugenie ; Extrait excelsior; Extrait Frangipani ; Ex trait jockey club . 241 Extrait opopanax ; Extrait patchouli ; Extrait millefleurs ; Extrait bouquet Victoria . . . . . 242 Extrait kiss-me-quick ; Extrait mogadore ; Extract bouquet Prince Albert ; Extrait muse ; Extrait new-mown hay ; Extrait chypre . . ' .243 Extrait mar6chal ; Extrait mousseline ; Extraits triple con- centres and their preparations ..... 244 Concentrated flower-extract for the preparation of extraits d'Odeurs; Extraits d'Odeurs, quality II . . . . 245 Extrait violette II ; Extrait rose II ; Extrait reseda II ; Extrait ylang-ylang II . . . . . . .246 Extrait new-mown hay II ; Extrait chypre II ; Extrait ess- bouquet II 247 Extrait muguet II; Extrait bouquet Victoria II; Extrait spring flower II ; Extrait ixora II . . . . 248 Extrait Frangipani II ; Cologne water (eau de Cologne) and its preparation 249 Durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of Cologne water . . . . . . . . 250 Cologne water, quality I . . . . . . .252 Cologne water, quality II ; Cologne water, quality III ; Cologne water, quality IV; Cologne water, quality V . 253 Maiglb'ekchen eau de Cologne ; Various other receipts for Cologne water . . . . . . . . 254 CONTENTS. XV PAGE Eau de Lavande ; Eau de vie de Lavande double ambree ; Eau de Lavande double ; Aqua mellis ; Eau de Lisbonne 255 CHAPTER IX. DRY PERFUMES. Use of dry perfumes in ancient times ; Sachet powders and their preparation ........ 256 Sachet a. la rose ; Sachet & la violette ; Heliotrope sachet powder; Ylang-ylang sachet powder ; Jockey club sachet 257 Sachet aux millefleurs ; Lily of the valley sachet powder ; Patchouli sachet powder ; Frangipani sachet powder ; Victoria sachet powder ; Reseda sachet powder . . 258 Musk sachet powder; Ess-bouquet sachet ponder; New- mown hay sachet powder ; Orange sachet powder ; Solid perfumes with paraffine ; White rose . ... . 259 Ess-bouquet; Lavender odor; Eau de Cologne; Smelling salts; Preston salt and " menthol pungent" as prepared by William W. Bartlett ; White smelling salt . . 260 CHAPTER X. FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC. >/ Constitution of fumigating agents ; Object of fumigating ; Prejudice against fumigating ; Mode of fumigating . . 262 Atomizers ; Objections to dry fumigating agents . . 263 Fumigating essences and vinegars ; Rose-flower fumigating essence ; Flower fumigating essence heliotrope . . 264 Violet-flower fumigating essence ; Oriental flower fumigating essence ; Pine odor (for atomizing) ; Juniper odor ; fumi- gating balsam ........ 265 Fumigating water ; Fumigating vinegar ; Fumigating pow- ders ; Ordinary fumigating powder . . . .266 Rose fumigating powder ; Violet fumigating powder ; Orange fumigating powder ; New-mown hay fumigating powder . 267 Fumigating paper ; Fumigating pastilles .... 268 XVI CONTENTS. Ordinary red fumigating pastilles ; Ordinary black fumigating pastilles; Musk fumigating pastilles .... 269' Rose fumigating pastilles ; Violet fumigating pastilles ; Mille- fleurs fumigating pastilles ; Fumigating lacquer . .270 y CHAPTER XL DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. Selection of materials for and compounding of dentifrices . 272 Soap as a constituent of dentifrices ; Value of thymol for den- tifrices ; Object of glycerin in dentifrices . . .273 Tooth and mouth waters ; Thymol tooth-water ; Eau denti- frice Botot ; Eau dentifrice Orientale . . . .274 Violet mouth- water ; Antiseptic gargle ; Odontine ; Sozo- dont ; Eau de Botot (improved) 275 Quinine tooth- water ; Dr. StahPs tooth-tincture ; Esprit de menthe ; Arnica tooth-tincture ; Myrrh tooth-tincture . 276 Tooth-pastes and tooth-powders ; tooth-paste or odontine . 277 Thymol tooth-paste ; Cherry tooth-paste ; Non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste ; Odontine paste .... 278 Thymol tooth-powder ; Poudre dentifrice ; Violet tooth- powder 279 Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder ; White tooth-powder ; Black tooth-powder; Poudre de corail ; Camphor tooth-powder; Opiat liquide pour les dents ...... 280 Poudre d'Algerine *. . .' . . . . .281 Dr. Hufeland's tooth-soap . . .... 282 Tooth-soap ; Saponaceous tooth-wash . . . . 283 CHAPTER XII. HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. Fats used for the preparation of pomades ; Reputation of some fats as hair pomades 284 Pomades and their preparation ; Purification of the fat . 285 Substances used for coloring pomades ; Fine French pomades (flower-pomades) ; Maceration or extraction of the flowers 286 CONTENTS. XV11 PAGE Receipts for some flower- pomades; Pommade & la rose; Pommade 1' acacia; Pommade & la fleur d' orange; Pommade & 1' heliotrope 287 Pomades according to the German method and their prepa- ration ; Foundations for white pomades . . . 288 Apple pomade; Bear's grease pomade; Quinine po- mades 289 Quinine pomades (imitation) ; Benzoin pomade ; Densdorf pomade ; Ice pomades ; Family pomades . . . 290 Strawberry pomade ; Fine hair pomade ; Pomade for pro- moting the growth of the hair ; Heliotrope pomades . 291 Jasmine pomade ; Emperor pomade ; Macassar pomade ; Portugal pomade ; Herb pomade ; Lanolin pomade . 292 Oriental pomade ; Paraffin ice pomade ; Neroli pomade ; Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white) ; Mignonette pomade ; Castor oil pomades ; Princess pomade . . . .293 Fine pomade ; Beef-marrow pomade ; Rogers' s pomade for producing a beard ; Rose pomade ; Fine rose pomade ; Finest rose pomade ; Salicylic pomade ; Victoria pomade ; Tonka pomade . . . . . . . 294 Fine vanilla pomade ; Vanilla pomade ; Violet pomade ; Walnut pomade ; Vaseline pomades . . . 295 Foundations for vaseline pomades; Bouquet vaseline po- made ; Family vaseline pomade ; Lily of the valley vase- line pomade ; Neroli vaseline pomade .... 296 Mignonette vaseline pomade; Portugal vaseline pomade; Rose vaseline pomades ; Fine vaseline pomade (yellow) ; Vaseline pomade (red) ; Vaseline pomade (white) ; Vir- ginia vaseline pomade ; Victoria vaseline pomade . . 297 Extra fine vaseline pomade; Stick pomades; Foundations for stick pomades ; Manufacture of stick pomades . .298 Rose-wax pomade ; Black- wax pomade ; Blonde- wax po- made ; Brown- wax pomade ...... 299 Cheap wax pomades ; Resin pomades ; Hair oils ; Huiles antiques ; Vaseline oil for hair oils ; Treatment of oils with benzoin . . . 300 xvin CONTENTS, PAGE Preparation of huiles antiques; Huile antique it la rose; Huile antique au jasmin ; Alpine herb oil ; Flower hair oil; Peruvian bark hair oil . . . . . .301 Peru hair oil ; Burdock root hair oils ; Macassar hair oils ; Neroli hair oil ; Mignonette hair oils ; Fine hair oil . 302 Cheap hair oil (red or yellow) ; Portugal hair oil ; Jasmine hair oil ; Vaseline hair oils ; Vanilla hair oil ; Ylang- ylang hair oil ; Philocome hair oil . . . . . 303 Sultana hair oil ; Rose hair oil ; Tonka hair oil ; Violet hair oil ; Victoria hair oil ; Cheap hair oils ; Bandolines and their preparation . . . . . . . 304 Rose bandoline ; Almond bandoline ; Brilliantine . . 305 Flower brilliantine No. 1 ; Brilliantine No. 2 . . 306 Brilliantine No. 3 ; Various formulas for brilliantine . .307 Hair tonics ; Eau Athenienne ; Florida water . , . 308 Eau de Cologne hair tonic ; Eau de quinine . . . 309 Eau de quinine (imitation) ; Honey water ; Glycerin hair tonic; Eau lustral (hair restorative) ; Tea hair tonic . 310 Locoek's lotion for the hair; Shampoo lotion; Shampoo liquid . . ... . , . . .311 Dandruff' cures ; Dandruff lotion ; Bay rum .-. , . 312 Directions for preparing bay rum . r . . : . 313 Hair dyes; Requirements of a good hair dye; Gradual darkening of the hair ; Use of dilute acids for making the hair lighter 314 Use of lead salts, nitrate of silver, and copper salts for dye- ing the hair 315 Iron salts for dying the hair ; Rastikopetra, a Turkish hair dye ; Use of potassium permanganate and pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair . . . . . . .316 Kohol, an Egyptian hair dye ; The use of henna as a hair dye; Process of coloring hair, dyed red with henna, black 317 Use of the juice of green walnut shells for coloring the hair; Bleaching the hair with peroxide of hydrogen ; Formulae for hair dyes . . . . . . . .318 Single hair dyes ; Teinture Orientale (Karsi) ; Teinture Chinoise (Kohol) 319 CONTENTS. XIX PAGK Potassium permanganate hair dye; Bismuth hair dye; Wal- nut hair dye ; Pyrogallic hair stain .... 320 Double hair dyes; For dyeing brown; For dyeing black; Tannin hair dye 321 Melanogfene ; Eau d'Afrique; Krinochrom ; Copper hair dye; Depilatories; Rhusma ...... 322 Boettger's depilatory ; Bartholow's depilatory . . .323 CHAPTER XIII. COSMETICS. Skin cosmetics; Toilet vinegars; Vinaigre de Bully ; Vin- aigre de toilette a la rose ; Vinaigre de toilette & la vio- lette 324 Vinaigre de toilette heliotrope ; Vinaigre de toilette orange ; Vinaigre de toilette ; Aromatic vinegar; English aromatic vinegar . . . . . . . . .325 Toilet vinegar; Washes; Virginal milk (Lait virginal); Rose milk (Lait de rose) 326 Almond milk (Lait d'amandes ameres) .... 327 Lily milk (Lait de lys) ; Perfumed glycerin with rose odor ; Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor; Perfumed meals and pastes; Farm de noisette (nut meal) .... 328 Farin d'amandes ameres (almond meal) ; Pate d'amandes au miel (honey almond paste) ; Poudre de riz & la rose . 329 Poudre de riz heliotrope ; Poudre de riz orange ; Poudre de riz muguet ......... 330 Poudre de riz ixora; Poudre de riz bouquet; Cold creams and lip salves ; Cold cream ; Vaseline cold cream . .331 Glycerin cream ; CrSme de concombre ; Glycerin gelee ; Glycerin jelly 332 Cream of roses ; Boroglycerin cream ; Recamier cream ; Preparations for chapped hands . . . . .333 Wash for the hands ; Nail powder; Lip-salves . . . 334 Paints; Pulverulent paints (powders); u Blanc fard" or " Blanc francais" 335 XX CONTENTS. PAGE Mixtures for powders ; Coloring substances for powders ; Powder for coloring intensely red ; Solid paints ; Ordi- nary red paint (rouge) . . . . . . . 336 Fine red paint (rouge) ; White paint ; Preparation of paints 337 Red stick-paint (stick rouge) ; Moulding the rouge into sticks 339 White stick-paint ; Rouge en feuilles ; Liquid paints ; Liquid rouge 340 White liquid paint ; Fat paints 341 Cr@me de Lys ; CrSme de rose . . .. ; . . 342 INDEX 343 UNIVERSITY A PRACTICAL TREATISE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY, CHAPTER I. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. NATURE has implanted in man the instinct of finding the odor accompanying decay and putrefaction insuffer- able, of fleeing from it, and of going in quest of fragrant odors. Hence, in ancient times, perfume substances were highly esteemed, and an offering of them was considered a sign of the most profound reverence and homage. The early nations of the Orient especially used perfume substances in such profusion that the con- sumption of them by the finest lady of to-day must be called a comparatively moderate one. This may, how- ever, be readily explained, for, on the one hand, the majority of plants which produce the most agreeable perfumes in larger quantity are indigenous to the Orient ; and, on the other, the excessive exhalations from the human body, caused by the hot climate, forced the people to search for means to remove, or at least to cover, the disagreeable odor arising therefrom. ce fragrant odors were agreeable to human beings, 2 18 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. it was believed that they must be welcome also to the gods, and, to honor them, per fume substances were turned upon the altars. Besides, as an offering to the gods, per- fume substances were extensively used by many nations, especially by the Egyptians, for embalming the dead, the process employed by the latter having been transmitted io us by the ancient authors Herodotus and Diodorus. Furthermore, a desire for ornamentation and to give to the face and body as pleasing an appearance as pos- sible, is common to all mankind. To be sure, the ideas of what constitutes beauty in this respect have varied at different times and among the various nations. But, independent of the savage races, who consider painting and tattooing the body and face an embellishment, and taking into consideration only the earliest civilized nations, it is astonishing how many arts of the toilet have been preserved from the most ancient historical times up to the present. " In the most ancient histori- cal times, people perfumed and painted, frizzed, curled, and dyed the hair as at present, and, in fact, the same cosmetics, only slightly augmented, which were in use hundreds, nay, thousands, of years ago are still employed to-day."* It is especially woman, who everywhere exer- cises the arts of the toilet, while, with the exception of perfumes and agents for the hair, man is but seldom referred to as making use of cosmetics. The young girls of ancient Egypt used red and white paints, colored their pale lips, and anointed their hair with sweet- scented oils ; they dyed their eyelashes and eyelids black to impart a brighter lustre to the glance of the eye, and * Paschkis, Kosmetik fur Aerzte. Wien, 1890. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 19 the mother of the wife of the first king of Egypt is said to have already composed a receipt for a hair-dye. 4^From the Egyptians, the practices of the toilet, like many other things, were transmitted to the Jews. In Egypt, the Hebrew woman had known the sweet-scented flower of the henna bush, and, finding it also in Judea, it served her as a perfume. In the Bible the henna flower is called kopher, in Greek kypros, and the Cyprian salve, mentioned by Pliny, was prepared by boiling henna flowers in oil and then expressing them. Painting the face was also practised by the Hebrew women, reference being made to it in II. Kings ix. 30, and Jeremiah v. 30, while painting of the eyes is men- tioned in Ezekiel xxiii. 40. /The number of perfume substances known to the ancient Hebrews was but a limited one, they consisting, besides the above-mentioned henna flower, chiefly of a few gum-resins, especially bdellium, olibanum and myrrh. ""In ancient times olibanum was, without doubt, the most important perfume-substance. It was introduced into commerce by the Phenicians, and, like many other substances, it received from them its name, which was adopted by other nations. Thus, the Hebrews called the tree lebonah, the Arabs, lubah, while the Greeks named it, Mj3ai>6$, and the resin derived from it, the cele- brated frankincense of the ancients, iipavot oj, Latin, oli- banum. Regarding the mode of gaining the olibanum, some curious ideas prevailed in ancient times. Thus, Herodotus writes : " Arabia is the only country in which olibanum grows, as well as myrrh, cassia, cinnamon and lederum. With the exception of myrrh, the Arabs 20 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. encounter many difficulties in procuring these products. Olibanum they obtain by burning styrax, for every oli- banum tree is guarded by a number of small-sized winged serpents of a variegated appearance, which can be driven away by nothing but styrax vapors." Accord- ing to Pliny, who gives a very full account of olibanum, Arabia felix received its by-name from the abundance of olibanum and myrrh found there. He states that oli- banum grows in no other country besides Arabia, but it is not found in every part of it. About in the centre, upon a high mountain, he continues, is the country of the Atramites, a province of the Sabeans, from which the olibanum region is distant about eight days' journey. It is called Saba and is everywhere rendered inaccessible by mountains, a narrow defile, through which the export is carried on, leading into an adjoining province inhabited by the Mineans. In Saba itself were not more than 300 families, called the saints, who claimed the cultiva- tion of olibanum as a right of heritage. When making the incisions in the trees, and while gathering the oliba- num, the men were prohibited from having intercourse with women and from attending funerals. Notwithstand- ing the fact that the Romans carried on war in Arabia, none of them had ever seen an olibanum tree. When there was less chance of selling the olibanum. it was gathered but once in the year, but since the increase in the demand, it was gathered twice, first in the fall and again in the spring, the incisions in the trees having been made during the winter. The collected olibanum was brought upon camels to Sabota, where one gate was open for its reception ; to turn from the road was prohibited under penalty of death. The priests took one-tenth by HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 21 measure for the god Sabin, sales not being allowed until their claim was satisfied. The olibanum could be. ex- ported only through the territory of the Gebanites, whose King also levied tribute. Pliny further states that the Arabs did not steal one from another, but for fear of loss those employed in the stores of Alexandria were forced to go naked with the exception of a clout which was sealed. A mask and a thick net were thrown over the head. To us the practice of anointing the entire body, cus- tomary among the ancients, appears very singular. Old Egyptian sculptures represent the guests being anointed at the meal. Among the Jews we find a holy oil with which Aaron and his sons were anointed to consecrate them to the priesthood, Moses prescribing for this holy anointing oil, myrrh, cinnamon, calamus, and oil from the olive tree. Other persons were prohibited from imitating or using this holy oil. The anointing of kings was introduced later on. Though it was pro- hibited to imitate and use the holy oil, this prohibition did not refer to anointing with oil in general. That the Greeks also set a high value upon anointing with oil is plainly seen from Homer. When Telem- achus visited Nestor, Polycaste, Nestor's youngest daughter, bathed him and anointed him with oil, and when he was the guest of Menelaus, the maids of the latter performed the same service for him, while for Ulysses returning as a beggar, the aged Euryclea pre- pared a foot-bath and anointed him. By the addition of fragrant substances to the oil, the sweet-scented ointment, myron, originated. While the anointing with simple oil evidently served as 22 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. a hygienic measure after the bath, and especially for men in the gymnasium, and before a combat, with the Greeks, ointments were an article of luxury. In Socrates 7 time the use of sweet-scented ointments had reached such an extent, that Xenophon caused him to speak against it, but, as is the case with all such lectures against fashion, without the slightest success. In Athens the luxury was carried so far that the bacchana- lians anointed each part of their body with a special ointment. The oil extracted from the palm was thought best adapted to the cheeks and the breasts ; the arms were refreshed with balsam-mint ; sweet marjoram supplied an oil for the hair and eyebrows ; and wild thyme for the knee and neck. Although to us it would be repugnant to have the entire body anointed, in s it was considered beautiful to be glossy with ointments. It is said of Demetrius Phalereus, that in order to appear more captivating, he dyed his hair yellow, and anointed the face and the rest of his body. From the Asiatics and Greeks the Romans also learned the use of ointments. Pliny cannot say at what time they were introduced in Rome, but states that after the conquest of Asia and the defeat of the King, Antiochus, in the year 565, after the building of Rome, the censors issued an edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments. However, this edict was of no use, and the practice spread more and more, Pliny speaking very bitterly about it. Regarding this extravagance in ointments, Plutarch says : " Frankincense, cinnamon, spikenard, and Arabian calamus are mixed together with the most careful art and sold for large sums. It is an effeminate pleasure and has spoiled not only the HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 23 women but also the men, who will not sleep even with their own wives if they do not smell of ointments and powders." Plutarch further mentions an incident which must have created a sensation even in luxurious Rome, as otherwise it would scarcely have been chronicled for the benefit of posterity. Nero one day anointed him- self with costly ointments and scattered some of them over Otho. The next day Otho gave Nero a banquet, and laid in all directions gold and silver tubes, which poured forth expensive ointments like water, thoroughly saturating the guests. Directions for preparing ointments are contained in Theophrastus's work " On Perfumes," in Dioscorides's " Medica materia," and Pliny's " Historia naturalis." Dioscorides's receipts are the fullest. According to Pliny, a distinction was made between the juice and the body, the latter consisting of the fat oils and the former of the sweet-scented substances. In preparing the ointments, the oil together with the perfuming substances were heated in the water-bath. For instance, rose ointment was, according to Dioscorides, prepared by mixing 5J Ibs. of bruised Andropogon Schoenanthus with a little water, then adding 20J Ibs. of oil and heating. After heating the oil was filtered off, and the petals of one thousand roses were thrown into the oil, the hands with which the rose leaves were pressed into the oil being previously coated with honey. When the whole had stood for one night, the oil was strained off and when all impurities had settled, it was brought into another vessel and fresh rose leaves introduced, the operation being several times repeated. However, according to the opinion of the ancient ointment makers, no more 24 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. odor was absorbed by the oil after the seventh introduc- tion of rose leaves. To fix the odor, resins or gums were added to the ointments. A,, process of distilling volatile oils was also known, the odoriferous matter being caught by spreading wool over the heated perfume-substances. The wool was afterwards subjected to pressure. This process, of course, involved great loss^and was available only for substances containing much volatile oil. Dioscorides also gives directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes. Beef-tallow, deer- fat, or the marrow of animals was freed from all mem- branes, melted together with a little salt in an entirely new vessel, and then poured into clean water, where it was washed by rubbing with the hands, the water being frequently renewed. Then it was boiled with equal parts of sweet-scented wine, and after taking it from the fire it was allowed to stand over night. The next day the cold fat was again boiled in a new vessel, with sweet-scented wine, this operation being repeated until the fat had lost every trace of disagreeable odor, when it was brought in contact with the perfumes. The consumption of perfume-substances by the an- cient Romans must have been enormous. The trade of the ointment makers (ungenlarii) was so extensive that the large street Seplasia in old Capua was entirely taken up by it, and the business must have paid well since the prices realized were very high. ^ However, in ancient times the business cannot have been very agree- able, at least not in Greece, as shown by a passage in Plutarch's Life of Pericles : " We take pleasure in HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 25 ointments and purple, but consider the dyers and oint- ment makers bondsmen and mechanics." Red and white paints, in the form of powder as well as of paste, were extensively used by the Roman ladies. Chalk and white lead served for white paint, and minium and carmine for red. Lovers preferred white paints, a pale color being more becoming to them : " Palleat omnis amans ; hie est color aptus amaiati." (Ovid.) For black paints for the eyebrows roasted ant eggs ^ or soot were used. The Roman ladies paid as much attention to their natural, and also false, hair as the fair ones of to-day. They curled their hair with heated iron instruments, and perfumed them with fragrant oil. If from age, sorrow, or other reasons, the hair was no longer black, it was dyed, and it seems that a considerable number of hair-dyes were known in Rome, amongst them some which are still employed to-day, such as green nut- shells and acetate of lead. ^Vfter the Romans had seen the blonde German maidens, blonde and red hair became the fashion. To dye the hair blonde sharp alkaline soaps were chiefly used. However, this or some other hair-dye seems to have been very injurious, as it caused the hair to come out. The satirists ridiculed this as well as the wigs, which were worn by men and women to hide baldness, or on account of the color which could not be attained by dyes. Depilatories were also known to the Romans, the agents employed being called psilothrum and dropax. 26 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. They were of vegetable origin, but it is not exactly known from which plants they were derived. For cleaning the teeth the Roman ladies used a den- tifrice which does not seem very inviting to us. It con- sisted of a urine imported from Spain (dens hiberna defricatus urina). To perfume the breath or to hide its bad odor, mouth-washes, perfumed with saffron, roses, etc., were used, or myrrh, "mastic from Chios or per- fumed pastilles were chewed. We know but little regarding the use of perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages. In the wars during the migrations of the nations, but little thought was very likely given to them, but as soon as the nations became again settled and made sufficient progress in culture, the taste for perfumes and other pleasures of life no doubt returned. Our knowledge in this respect is limited to what is contained in the works of physi- cians of the first centuries. Later on we find receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, such as Rhazes (end of the 9th to the commencement of the 10th century), Avicenna (end of the 10th to the commencement of the llth century), and Mesue (llth century). To the llth century also belong the works of the celebrated Trotula, " De mulierum passionibus" " Practica Trotulae mulieris Salernitanae de cur is mulie- rum" and " Trotula in utilitatem mulierum" all of which contain receipts for cosmetics. In the 14th century the most celebrated surgeon of the Middle Ages, Guy de Chanlios, did not consider it beneath his dignity to de- vote a section of his " Grande Chirurgie" to cosmestics. \ However, it was only in the 16th century that perfumes J and cosmetics came again into prominent notice in Italy, HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 27 which at that time was the country of luxury and art. Giovanni Marinello,* a physician, in 1562 wrote a work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," which he dedicated to the ladies Victoria and Isabella Palavicini. In the preface the author expresses the opinion that it is only right and pleasing to God to place the gifts bestowed by him in a proper light and to heighten them. He then proceeds to give perfumes foT various purposes, aromatic baths to keep the skin young and fresh, means for in- creasing the stoutness of the entire body and of separate limbs, and others for reducing them. He further recom- mends certain remedies for making large eyes small, and small ones large. The chapter on the hair is very fully treated. To prevent the hair from coming out, rubbing with oil, and then washing with sorrel and myrobalan is recommended. For promoting the growth of the hair, the use of dried frogs, lizards, etc., rubbed to a powder, is prescribed. Means for making the hair long and soft and curly are also given, and others recommended for eyebrows and eyelashes. As depila- tories lime and orpiment are prescribed. Paints are also classed among general cosmetics. Their use became at this time more and more fashionable, and not only the face, but also the breast and neck were painted. ^ Catherine of Medici and Margaret of Valois intro- duced these arts of the toilet into France. That coun- try soon became the leader in this respect, and for many years the greatest luxury in perfumes and cosmetics prevailed there. The golden age for these articles lasted * Grli ornament! delle donne, tratti dalle seriture d'una Reina greca, par M. Giovanni Marinello in Venetia. 28 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. from the commencement of the seventeenth to the mid- dle of the eighteenth century, during which time the mouche or beauty patch also flourished. " There were at that time hundreds of pastes, essences, cosmetics, a white -balsam, a water to make the face red, another to make a coarse complexion delicate, one to preserve the fine com- , plexion of lean persons and again one to make the face like that of a twenty-year old girl, an Eau pour nourir et laver les teints corrodes and Eau de chair admirable pour teints jaunes et bilieux, etc. Then there were Mou*- choirs de Venus, further bands impregnated with wax to cleanse and smooth the forehead ; gold leaf was even heated in a lemon over a fire in order to obtain a means which should impart to the face a supernatural bright- ness. For the hair, teeth and nails there were innu- merable receipts, ointments, etc. However, of special importance were the paints, chemical white, blue for the veins, but, chief of all, the red or rouge, mineral, vege- table, or cochineal. The application of rouge was at that time no small affair, it was not only to be rouged, but the rouge had also to express something Le grand point est d'avoir un rouge qui dise quelque chose. The rouge had to characterize its wearer ; a lady of rank did not wear the rouge like a lady of the court, and the rouge of the wife of the bourgeois was not like either of them nor like that of the courtesan. At court a more intense rouge was worn, the intensity of which was still in- creased on the day of presentation, it being then Rouge d J Espagne and Rouge de Portugal en tasse. It may seem incredible, but for eight days a violet paint was used and then for a change Rouge de Serkis. Ladies, when retiring for the night applied a light rouge (un HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 29 demi rouge), and even small girls wore rouge, such being the decree of fashion. The ladies dyed their eyebrows and eyelashes, and powdered their hair, both natural and false, for, about 1750, they commenced wearing wigs and chignons. Powdering was done partially for the purpose of dying the hair after dressing, and par- tially for decoration ; white, gray, red and fiery red ponders were in vogue." To that time fashion also ordained an ever-varying routine in the employment of perfumes ; so that the royal apartments were one day fragrant with the scent of the tuberose and the next with that of amber and cloves ; and so on consecutively, each succeeding day bringing a change of the reigning odor. In that luxurious age the personal use of perfumes was not confined to the fair sex, but the effeminate gallants of the day gloried in perfuming themselves with the favorite scents of their mistresses or of prominent belles ; so that the allegiance was recognized, not as in more chivalrous times by the knight wearing the colors of the fair one who had en- slaved him, but by his smelling of the particular odor which she had consecrated to herself. Philip Augustus, in 1190, granted a charter to the French perfumers, who had formed a guild. This charter was, in 1357, confirmed by John, and in 1582 by Henry III., and remained in force until 1636. The importance of the craft in France is shown by the fact that under Colbert the perfumers or " parfumeurs-gan- tiers" as they were called, were granted patents which were registered in Parliament. In the seventeenth cen- tury Montpellier was the chief seat of the French per- fumery industry ; to-day it is Paris, and over fifty .30 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. millions of francs 7 worth of perfumery are annually sold there. The parfumeurs-gantiers had the privilege of selling gloves of all possible kinds of material, as well as the leather required for them ; they had the further privilege of perfuming gloves and selling all kinds of perfumes. Perfumed leather for gloves, purses, etc., was at that time imported from Spain. This leather was very expensive and fashionable, but on account of its penetrating odor its use for gloves was finally abandoned. In England perfumes were not in general use before the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when they soon became fashionable. Elizabeth had an especially finely devel- oped sense of smell and nothing was more repugnant to her than a disagreeable odor. She had a cloak of per- fumed Spanish leather, and even her shoes w r ere per- fumed. Perfumed gloves were also fashionable. The city soon imitated the practices of the court, and that an extravagant use was made of perfumeries and cosmetics is plainly seen from the works of the authors of that time, as well as from an act of Parliament passed in 1770. By the latter it is ordained that any woman, no matter of what age or rank, be she maid or widow, who de- ceives a man and inveigles him into matrimony by the use of perfumeries, false hair, Crepons d'Espagne (a paint), corsets, hooped petticoats, shoes with high heels, and false hips, shall suffer the penalty of the law for procuring, and the marriage shall be null and void. MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 31 CHAPTER II. THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. MOST of the perfume-materials employed by the per- fumer are derived from the vegetable kingdom ; a few are of animal origin, whilst some are artificially pre- pared. Of animal substances only four are used, namely : musk y castor or castoreum, civet, and ambergris; the separation of their characteristic odoriferous substances has, however, not yet been accomplished. The odor of plants is generally due to volatile substances called volatile or essential oils. Their occurrence is not limited to special parts, they being found in the flower, seed, wood, bast, bark, leaves, and root. However, in every plant the oil occurs chiefly in certain organs, and it even happens that the oil differs with the part of the plant whence it is derived. The odors exist already formed in the living plant, or else are generated, as in the instance of bitter almonds, by some reaction be- tween the elements which takes place during fermenta- tion or distillation. From the strength of the odor of a plant no conclu- sion can be drawn as to the quantity of volatile oil present. If this were the case, the hyacinth, for in- stance, would contain more oil than the coniferae, whilst 32 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. in fact it contains so little that it can be separated only with the greatest difficulty. The odor does not depend on the quantity, but on the quality of the oil ; a plant may diffuse but little odor and still contain much vola- tile oil. Of the various families of plants, the labiatae, umbelliferae, and coniferae are richest in volatile oils. In every climate plants diffuse odor, those growing in tropical latitudes being more prolific in this respect than the plants of colder regions, which, however, yield the most delicate perfume. Although the East Indies, Ceylon, Peru, and Mexico afford some of the choicest perfumes, Central Europe is the actual flower garden of the perfumer, Grasse, Cannes, and Nice being the principal places for the production of perfume-materials. Thanks to the geographical position of these places, the cultivator, within a comparatively narrow space, has at his disposal various climates suitable for the most perfect development of the plants. The Acacia Farnesiana grows on the seashore, without having to fear frost, which in one night might destroy the entire crop, while at the foot of the Alps, on Mount Esteral, the violet diffuses a much sweeter odor than in the hotter regions, where the olive and the tuberose reach perfect bloom. England asserts its superiority in oils of lavender and peppermint. The volatile oils obtained from plants cultivated in Miteham and Hitchin command a con- siderably higher price than those from other localities, this preference being justified only by the delicacy of their perfume. Cannes is best suited for roses, acacias, jasmine, and neroli, while in Nimes, thyme, rosemary, and lavender are chiefly cultivated. Nice is celebrated MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 33 for its violets, while Sicily furnishes the lemon and orange, and Italy the iris and bergamotte. The odors exhaled by our own domestic plants have been but little studied, but the southern as well as many northern districts of the United States are well adapted for the cultivation of quite a number of species of plants which might be made to yield highly valuable articles of commerce. Among the plants which might furnish oils for the perfumer's use are, for instance, the wall flower, the lil,ly, lilac and mignonette. VOLATILE OILS. The volatile oils are either fluid (actual volatile oils) or solid (varieties of camphor) or solutions of solid combinations in fluid. The latter, on exposure to low temperatures, separate into two portions, one solid, called stearoptene, and the other liquid, called elceoptene. The boiling point of the volatile oils is con- siderably higher than that of water, but when heated with water they pass over with the vapors. Upon paper, fluid volatile oils produce grease spots, which differ, however, from those caused by fat oils in that they gradually disappear at an ordinary temperature, and rapidly by gentle heating. Most volatile oils are insoluble, or only with difficulty and sparingly soluble, in water, but they impart to the latter their odor and taste. They are readily soluble in alcohol, ether, chlo- roform, bisulphide of carbon and petroleum-ether, and miscible in every proportion with fats and fat oils. By their solubility in alcohol they differ from most fat oils. When freshly prepared many volatile oils are colorless, but soon turn yellow ; some, however, show a distinct color even when fresh. They ignite with greater ease than fat oils and burn with a fierce smoky flame deposit- 3 34 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. ing a large amount of carbon. They exhibit a great tendency to absorb oxygen from the air and to gum, the influence of light promoting the process. In specific gravity they range from about 0.75 to 1.1 7, most of them being specifically lighter than water. Most bodies, under otherwise equal conditions, show always exactly the same specific gravity, the variations being so slight that they may be justly ascribed to errors of observation. However, one and the same volatile oil frequently shows such variations in specific gravity, that we are forced to ascribe this phenomenon to alterations in the constitution of the oil itself. For the exact determination of the specific gravity of a volatile oil, it should, therefore, be subjected to examination immediately after its prepara- tion from the plant or vegetable substance, which should be as fresh as possible. The influence of light upon volatile oils is best shown by the following interesting experiment : If certain volatile oils are distilled in a vacuum or over burnt lime in a current of carbonic acid, it is no longer possible to distinguish, for instance, oil of lemon from oil of turpentine ; however, by again expo- sing the oils to the air, they reacquire their characteristic odor. According to their elementary composition the vola- tile oils may be divided into three principal divisions : 1. Volatile oils free from oxygen, terpene (camphene), or hydrocarbons. 2. Oxygenated volatile oils. 3. Volatile oils containing sulphur. On account of the facility with which most of the volatile oils absorb oxygen, oils originally free from oxygen are frequently a mixture of hydrocarbons and MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 35 combinations containing oxygen. The volatile oils varying so much in their physical as well as their chemical properties, a suitable classification of them has thus far been unsuccessful. Most of the volatile oils contain a liquid hydro- carbon, terpene, which is characterized neither by special taste nor odor, nor is the peculiarity of a volatile oil de- pendent on it. In the direct distillation of a volatile oil, for instance, lemon oil, this hydrocarbon (citrene), passes first over and can, therefore, be readily separated from the constituents on which depend the peculiarity of lemon oil, and which distil over at a higher tempera- ture. The specific character of an oil is generally due to the portion of the oil containing oxygen. Hence, manufacturers have endeavored to free several of the volatile oils, used for perfumery and the preparation of food, from the worthless terpene and at the same time to obtain them in a concentrated form. Carvol is, for instance, caraway oil freed from carvene (terpene). These concentrated oils are not only purer and more agreeable in odor and taste and more readily soluble in dilute alcohol, but, being more concentrated, an equal volume of them goes much further than ordinary vola- tile oil. In the price lists these oils are designated as extra strong, patented, concentrated, highly concentrated oils or essences. All the terpenes occurring in the various oils are combinations having the formula C l0 H l6 ,or polymeric with it, C, 5 H 24 ,C 20 H 32 , etc. These terpenes exhibiting certain deviations in regard to their properties, odor, specific gravity, and boiling points, nearly as many ter- penes as there are volatile oils have been distinguished. It is, however, very likely that these deviations may be 36 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. traced back to fortuitous circumstances, for example, to the admixture of foreign substances occurring together with the terpenes, and that, by a more accurate examina- tion, the number of terpenes entitled to be considered pure chemical combinations will be considerably reduced. By Wallach's labors, the identity of several terpenes formerly considered distinct, has already been estab- lished, whilst many others have been found to possess properties in common. According to the nature and quantity of the odorifer- ous substances contained in the plants, various methods, namely, expression, distillation, extraction, maceration, and absorption, are employed for the purpose of obtain- ing them. Expression. This is only practicable when the sub- stances are especially rich in oil and of sufficient softness, as in the case with the peel of the orange, citron, lemon, etc. In such instances the material is simply placed in a linen cloth and subjected to a strong pressure until it ceases to yield oil. The press may be of any size according to the quantity to be expressed. For small quantities it generally consists of an iron vessel, having a small opening at the bottom so that the oil may flow out. The material is placed upon a perforated bottom inside of the vessel and covered with a well-fitting iron plate, that can be pressed down by means of a screw. Though the material is fairly exhausted by such a press, for large operations it is advisable to make use of a hydraulic press, which is constructed and managed in exactly the same manner as those used for the expression of fixed oils. By expression a turbid milky fluid is obtained, which MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 37 consists of the volatile oil and aqueous substances. The latter are a solution of various extractive substances and salts in water. This fluid, as it runs from the press, is received in tall, narrow, glass vessels and brought into a cool place for clarification. This frequently requires several >days, three distinct layers being generally dis- tinguished. On the bottom is a mucous layer consisting of cell substances carried along by the liquid bodies. Over this is a clear fluid consisting of a solution of ex- tractive substances, vegetable albumen, and salts, and upon this floats the volatile oil, being specifically the lightest body, which, by its greater refractive power, can be clearly distinguished from the aqueous fluid. The oil is separated by bringing all that has been expressed into a bottle provided near the bottom with a lateral neck closed by a cock. After separating the oil from the aqueous fluid, the latter is allowed to escape by opening the cock. The oil obtained in this manner is still impure, and requires further treatment to remove small vegetable fibres, invisible to the naked eye, which float in them, and cause them to be somewhat opaque and slightly opalescent. By their subsequent decomposition they would also give the oil a disagreeable odor. There are two methods of obtaining the oil entirely clear, viz., filtration and distillation. Filtration is the cheaper process, but requires special precautions to ex- clude the air as much as possible to prevent the oil from undergoing injurious changes. By arranging the filter- ing apparatus so that the oil always comes in contact with only the same quantity of air, the injurious action of the oxygen is reduced to a minimum. It is self-evi- 38 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. dent that the apparatus should not be placed in the sun, but in a semi-dark, cool place. A filter of simple construction, and performing excel- lent service, is shown in Fig. 1. It consists of a large glass bottle, F, hermetically closed by a doubly-per- forated cork. The neck of the glass funnel T, the upper rim of which is ground smooth, is placed in one FIG. 1. , of the holes, and a glass tube, r, bent at a right angle, is fitted into the second hole. A thick wooden lid, with a rubber ring on the lower side, is placed upon the funnel, thus closing it air-tight. In the centre of the lid is fitted a glass tube, r', also bent at a right angle, which is connected with the tube r, by a rubber hose, L After the funnel has been provided with filtering paper and the oil to be filtered, the lid is placed upon it, and must not be removed, except for the purpose of pouring more oil into the funnel. The air in the bottle F is MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 39 displaced by the oil dropping into it, and escapes through r, k and r r into the funnel, and thus only the air in the bottle and funnel can act upon the oil. The other method for the complete purification of expressed oil is by rectification or distillation with water. For this purpose the oil, together with a little water, is brought into one of the stills described later on, and the oil distilled over. It is sometimes difficult to obtain the last portion of the oil, especially with a still heated by direct fire, and it is therefore preferable to combine it with a fresh quantity of the same oil to be distilled. Distillation. There are at present two methods in use. The one is founded upon the direct action of the heat, the other upon the use of steam. The first was formerly in general practice, and is still largely employed in France and England, and to a limited extent in this country. It is, however, very deficient in many respects. As the stills must necessa- rily be of small capacity, only small quantities can be distilled at one time, and the oils very rarely possess the peculiar odor due to them, and sometimes the odor is even altered. In mixing too little water with the materials to be extracted,' the re is danger that empyreu- matic oils will be formed ; a large quantity of water, on the other hand, is of disadvantage, in so far as in case the perfume-materials contain little oil, only a perfumed water, but no oil, will be obtained. In order to avoid these inconveniences, or, at least, to do away with some of them, another plan was devised. The materials to be distilled were spread upon sieves, which were sus- pended in the upper part of a still, so that they might 40 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. be penetrated from below. It is true no scorching is possible in this case, as was in the other process when the heating was continued after all the water had evap- orated, and the oil retains its proper color, but by this method only small quantities can be extracted at a time. The still generally used for distillation with direct heat resembles so much an ordinary whiskey still as to need no further description here. For the accurate determination of the percentage of volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield, or to obtain the oil from very costly raw materials, the small glass apparatus, Fig. 2, is used. The flask A, with a capa- FIG. 2. city of up to 5 or 6 quarts, serves for a still. In the tube tj shaped like the neck of a bottle, is inserted by means of a cork, a funnel tube, I, reaching to the bottom of the flask. The neck of the flask passes into the cooling pipe, which lies in a so-called Liebig cooler. This consists of a wide-glass tube, (7, into the lower end of which, at h y flows cold water from the reservoir Z), displacing the heated water at g. The lower end of the MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 41 cooling pipe is connected with the neck-shaped tube r, under which stands the vessel for the reception of the distillate. To prevent the cracking of the flask, which might readily happen with the use of direct heat, it is placed in a vessel filled with sand or water. A very good small apparatus for the distillation of volatile oil is shown in Fig. 3. It is known as a siphon still. It consists of a double-walled boiler, surmounted by a still-head, which is provided with a mechanism for keeping the contents of the boiler in motion. This stirring apparatus consists of a perpendicular shaft, bear- FIG. 3. ing a frame work of iron, curved so as to correspond to the interior shape of the still, and on the outside carrying a chain which scrapes over the inner surface of the still while the stirrer is being turned. This may be done 42 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. either by hand or by steam. The still having been charged with the material to be extracted, is filled up with water to within a few inches of the top of the body of the still, and the latter is heated by admitting steam. The vapors arising are conducted to a cooler situated at a higher level than the still itself, and the condensed liquid is collected in a receiver, where the oil and water separate. This receiver is provided with two faucets, one near the top and the other near the bottom. If the oil passing over is heavier than water, the excess of the latter is removed by the upper faucet ; if the oil swirns on the water, the lower faucet is regulated so as to allow the water to escape in about the same ratio as it enters the receiver. In either case the condensed water is made to run back into the still, and the loss of oil is, therefore, greatly reduced. Sometimes a single-walled still is used, and distilla- tion carried on with direct steam. This method is, however, not suitable where the presence of water is necessary, for instance, in the production of oil of bitter almonds. A simple way of converting an ordinary still into use with steam is shown in Fig. 4. For the helmet of the still A is substituted a cylindrical vessel, jB, with an opening in the bottom. The materials to be dis- tilled are brought into B, and rest upon a wire bottom to prevent particles from falling into A. From the upper portion of B a pipe, R, leads to the condenser. As may be seen from the illustration, the still A serves only for the generation of steam. The latter, in passing through J5, heats the contents and absorbs the liberated oil, the combined vapors passing into the condenser. MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 43 This simple modification of the ordinary still affords some advantage, the principal being the avoidance of the condensation of a large quantity of water. This in itself would not amount to much, but it has to be taken into consideration that, though volatile oils are only FIG. 4. very sparingly soluble in water, they are nevertheless soluble in it to such a degree as to impart to it their characteristic odor and taste. Such aromatized water can be utilized in the manufacture of liqueurs and perfu- mery, but to the manufacturer who restricts himself to the production of volatile oils alone, this represents a loss, and it is therefore necessary for him to condense as little water as possible. And this object can only be attained by the use of direct steam. A simple apparatus for the purpose is shown in Fig. 5. The still 6, provided with a helmet, rests free upon 44 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. a suitable support. To prevent cooling, it is surrounded with a wooden jacket, M. The material to be extracted rests upon a perforated bottom, beneath which enters the FIG. 5. pipe H D, w r hich conducts the steam from the boiler. For the more uniform distribution of the steam, it is recommended to let this pipe end in a perforated coil. The water condensed in the apparatus itself is dis- charged through the short pipe H, placed in the lowest part of the still. An improved apparatus for distilling dry substances by steam has been patented in Germany by Messrs. Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic. The tall conical column at the left (Fig. 6) is the still. About eight inches from the bottom is a perforated diaphragm or false bottom, upon which the material to be distilled is placed by in- troducing it through the still-head. A perforated coil below the diaphragm projects steam upwards through MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 45 the mass, which is occasionally agitated from without by means of a horizontal stirring apparatus indicated by the two crosses. Any condensed water which may run back is converted into steam by the heating coil at the bottom. Meanwhile, the mass itself is heated FIG. 6 by a long coil lining the body of the still and carry- ing steam at a high pressure. Whatever of volatile oil is carried forward by the steam passes through the still- head into the cooler on the right, where both oil and steam are condensed, and from where they flow through a small funnel tube into three successive receivers, which are arranged like Florentine flasks, and which retain the volatile oil that has separated. From the last receiver the water, which is still impregnated with oil, enters another reservoir, shown in the illustration only by dots, and from there it flows into a small globular still situated underneath ; in which, by means 46 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. of steam, nearly all the oil still retained is again vola- tilized with the steam of the water and both again con- ducted to the cooler. Attempts have been made to effect the distillation of volatile oils without the use of steam by means of hot air, but comparative experiments have shown that less oil is obtained. With the use of steam, the vegetable substances swell up by the absorption of water, and thus afford a free passage to the oil, liberated from the sacs containing it. With the use of hot air, on the other hand, the surface of the plant is completely dried and shrivels to a hard solid mass, which offers considerable resistance to the process of distillation. This injurious effect of hot air can be somewhat overcome by thoroughly moistening the plants to be dis- tilled, and allowing the hot air, before entering the still, to pass through a pipe filled with sponges constantly kept wet. But this process offers no advantages over that by steam. The apparatus required is far more complicated ; and, besides, a ventilator has to be pro- vided for forcing the hot air through the apparatus. Separation of the oil and water. As previously mentioned the specific gravity of most volatile oils is less than that of water. This behavior is utilized for the separation of the oil and water, by means of a so- called Florentine flask (Fig. 7). It consists of a glass flask provided near the bottom with a pipe, a, rising ver- tically to near the neck c of the flask where it is bent downwards as shown in the illustration. The mixed liquid of water and oil drips from the cooling pipe into the flask, and the water w, being specifically heavier, separates from the oil floating on the top, and gradually MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 47 ascends in the pipe a, finally flowing over at d. Oils specifically heavier than water are caught in receivers provided with a discharge-pipe near the mouth of the flask as shown in Fig. 8. FIG. 7. FIG. 8. The oil delivered from the receivers is, however, still mixed with some water, dirt, etc., and for their separa- tion is allowed to stand quietly for some time. The final separation is effected either by simply pouring off the oil, especially if larger quantities have to be handled, or with the assistance of a separator-funnel (Fig. 9). This consists of the glass-funnel T secured to the stand Gr, and provided with a close-fitting lid, P. The fluid is poured into the funnel, the lid placed in position, and the whole allowed to rest until the water W is completely separated from the oil 0. The oil is then separated from the last drops of water by carefully opening the faucet H. Most volatile oils are obtained by distillation, but this 48 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. method is not practicable for separating the odoriferous principle of many of the most sweet-scented and delicate flowers, partially because the flowers contain too little oil, and partially because the oil would lose in quality if obtained by distillation. Extraction. For obtaining the volatile oils by ex- traction various solvents such as ether, bisulphide of carbon, etc., may be employed. Carefully rectified petroleum-ether is very suitable for the purpose. It completely evaporates at about 122 F., and when suffi- ciently purified does not possess a disagreeable odor. The process of extraction is briefly as follows : The material to be extracted is treated in a digester with petroleum-ether or one of the above-named solvents. The solution is then drawn off* and the solvent evapo- MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 49 rated in a still. The reeondensed solvent flows imme- diately back into the digester and further extracts the material contained therein. The operation is repeated until nothing soluble remains. In practice some diffi- culties are, however, connected with this process since, besides the volatile oils, resins, and coloring and extrac- tive substances are dissolved, which have to be removed, as well as the last traces of the solvent, as other- wise the oil would acquire a foreign odor. Further the solvents mentioned are very volatile and inflam- mable, requiring the greatest precautions as regards fire. For these reasons the extraction process is not suitable for many purposes, and though at first great hopes were entertained in regard to it, its use is limited to substances with a large content of volatile oil. For extraction on a small scale, the apparatus, Fig. 10, is a very suitable one. It is especially adapted for manufacturers of perfumery, who wish to extract fresh flowers. It consists of a cylindrical vessel, (7, of tin plate, provided on the bot- tom with the stop-cock a and the pipe 6. The lid D fits into a gutter, R, running around the edge of C, and is hermetically closed by water in R. The cyl- inder is filled with the vegetable substance to be extracted, and sufficient petroleum-ether or bisulphide of carbon to cover it, poured in. The lid is then adjusted, the gutter R filled with water and the apparatus allowed to stand 4 50 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. quietly for forty minutes. To remove the fluid from the cylinder, the faucet o in the lid is first opened, and then the stop-cock a; the fluid escapes at 6, and is caught in a well-closed vessel. The operation may be repeated once or twice, or the vegetable substance is pressed out by means of a wooden plate, and the appa- ratus filled anew. The faucet h serves for emptying the gutter R. Extraction being finished, the cock o is opened, and then the cock a, and the fluid allowed to run into the flask of the distilling apparatus (Fig. 2). For working on a large scale, the flask is, however, too small, and is suitably replaced by a bottle-shaped tin vessel, F (Fig. 11), the conical cover D of which is secured by means of the rubber ring R and iron screw-clamps, 8. A bent glass tube fitted into the cover is connected with the cooling-pipe of the apparatus shown in Fig. 2. But the oils prepared by extraction are not sufficiently puri- fied by mere rectification, as traces of the solvent adhere tenaciously to them, which can only be removed by passing a current of air through the oil. But contact with air has an injurious effect upon the delicacy of the odor. For ex- pensive oils a current of air should therefore never be used, but one of pure carbonic acid. Fig. 12 shows a suitable ap- paratus for the purpose. The large bottle A, filled half full with pieces of white marble, is closed with a doubly-perforated cork ; through one of the holes is inserted a funnel-tube, and MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 51 through the other a short tube bent at a right angle. The latter is connected with another tube which reaches to the bottom of the vessel B, in which is also inserted a tube open in the bottom, and a short tube bent at a right angle. Alongside B stands another vessel, C, arranged in the same manner. The tube leading from C is connected with a tin pipe, Z), with a rose-like ex- pansion on its lower end. This pipe is inserted in the glass balloon containing the volatile oil. Finally, a pipe leads to the flask F, filled with water. To put the apparatus in operation, strongly diluted hydrochloric acid is poured through the funnel-tube upon the pieces of marble in A, which causes the de- velopment of a current of carbonic acid. But as the FIG. 12. latter carries along water and hydrochloric acid, it has to be freed from them before coming in contact with the volatile oil. The vessels B and C serve for the pur- pose. B is half filled with water, while C contains strong sulphuric acid. In B the hydrochloric acid car- ried along with the current of carbonic acid is retained, 52 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. while the water is fixed on the sulphuric acid in C. The current of carbonic acid passing out from C is per- fectly pure, and enters the volatile oil through the fine perforations in the pipe D. It absorbs the traces of solvent still adhering to the oil, and finally passes out through the water in the bottle F. Volatile oils obtained by extraction, and purified by a current of carbonic acid, will keep for years without undergoing alteration, if placed immediately in hermeti- cally closed vessels and stored in a dark place. Oils purified by a current of air always become somewhat thickly fluid by storing, and partially lose their fine odor, which is due to 'the oxygen absorbed during the process. For the extraction of oil on a larger scale, the appa- ratus shown in Fig. 13 is very suitable. It consists of two principal parts, the actual extracting vessel E, and the still B. The extracting vessel E sits in a vat con- taining cold water, TF, the arrangement being such that the heated water can be removed and replaced by cold. The still B sits in a boiler, K, filled with hot water. The apparatus is charged as follows : The conical head C of the extracting vessel E is unscrewed and its connection at H with the pipe R loosened. The ex- tracting vessel is then charged with the vegetable sub- stance, the head C replaced, and the connection with the pipe R restored. The cocks JBT 2 and H^ are then opened, and the required quantity of solvent is brought into the still. Both cocks are then closed, and the cocks H and H l opened. The water in the boiler is then heated until the contents of the still commence to boil. The vapor of the solvent ascends through the pipe R ; MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 53 on entering the extracting vessel E it is condensed, and after falling as a spray upon the material to be extracted, finally returns impregnated with volatile oil to the still B. Here the solvent is revaporized, and passes again FIG. 13. through the material in the extracting vessel, while the extracted oil remains in the still. During the boiling of the solvent the extracting vessel must be suitably cooled by the constant admission of cold water. AVhen extraction is finished, the cocks JJand H l are closed, and the cock H 2 , which is connected with a cool- ing worm, is opened. The solvent is then evaporated, and regained by condensation. The oil is discharged- from the still through a pipe in the bottom provided with the cock H 54 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. The apparatus may also be so arranged that the still B is connected with two extracting vessels which are used alternately, while the contents of one are being ex- tracted the other is emptied and refilled. For working on a very large scale, HeyPs extracting apparatus, shown in Fig. 14, is very suitable. It con- sists of a battery of four or more cast iron or sheet iron cylinders, A^ to A^ communicating with each other and surrounded by steam jackets. The extracting vessels are so arranged that they can be emptied by tilting, which is rather inconvenient, as all the pipes have to be unscrewed. In each cylinder close above the bottom is a perforated plate covered with fine wire-gauze, upon which the material to be extracted is placed. The cylinder is filled to the top, and, after placing a similar plate upon it, the upper opening is closed by a lid sus- pended to a crane. The cylinder, as well as the lid, is FIG. 14. fit, provided with a broad flange, between which is placed a hemp tissue firmly pressed together by 12 clamps to serve for packing. After filling the cylinders with the MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 55 material to be extracted and arranging the packing, the solvent (bisulphide of carbon) is conducted from a reser- voir through the principal pipe, B, to the extracting vessels, and is introduced into A 2 by opening the cock C 2 , which communicates with the pipe B. The bisul- phide of carbon passes through the bent pipe D v enters through the cock E v below the false bottom of the cylinder A 2 , and, after penetrating the mass and filling the cylinder, runs through the cock (7 2 of the bent pipe !) and the cock E a into the cylinder A 3 , reaching the fourth cylinder in the same manner through the cock C 3 , the pipe D 3 , and the cock E 4 . From the last cylin- der it passes as a thoroughly saturated oil solution into a reservoir, in which a vacuum has been created to pro- mote the circulation of the fluid in the entire apparatus. After a quantity of oil solution corresponding to the contents of the cylinder A 4 has arrived, the cock G 4 is closed and the cock C 4 opened, whereby the cylinder A 4 is connected with A v by the bent pipe D 4 and the cock E v After the exhaustion of the contents of the cylinder A v which is recognized by means of the glass tube H 2 placed on D 2 by the fluid running oif being colorless, the cocks C l and E^ are closed, andC 2 and E 3 opened, whereby the solvent runs into A 3 , and from there to A 4 and A v ; A^ being omitted. To effect this omission, and at the same time not to prevent the introduction of bisulphide of carbon, (? C 2 , (7 3 , and (7 4 , are so-called two-way cocks, which, when placed in one position, connect the principal pipe B with the branch pipes D, but interrupt a further flow through the principal pipe B ; while in 56 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. the other position they close the pipes D and open the principal pipe I>. The cylinder A 2 is, however, still filled with the sol- vent and material saturated with it. To remove the sol- vent, the discharge cock JT 2 on the bottom of the cylin- der is opened, which communicates with the discharge pipe J, through which the bisulphide of carbon is con- ducted into a reservoir. The discharge is promoted by opening the cock J/ 2 , connected with the pipe L, and the admittance of compressed air, which displaces the liquid solvent. After the flow of the latter has ceased, the steam cocks on the jacket 2 and the cylinder P 2 are opened under constant admission of air and simultaneous introduction of steam through the pipe N into the upper part of the cylinder. The solvent (bisulphide of carbon) converted into vapor by the heat, is conducted together with the aqueous vapor, by the admission of air through the cock _ZT 2 , the pipe J, and a cooling pipe placed between the extracting vessels and the reservoir, and collected in a reservoir to be re-used. On account of the great volatility of bisulphide of carbon, considerable loss would, however, be incurred by the above-mentioned admission of air. To avoid this, the reservoir serving for the reception of the con- densed bisulphide of carbon and aqueous vapor is closed, and connected by a pipe with a long, narrow, horizontal cylinder half filled with oil, and provided with a fan- shaft. The vapors of bisulphide of carbon entering the cylinder from the reservoir are absorbed, together with the air by the oil, the surface of which is constantly agi- tated by the fan-shaft, while the air, rendered entirely MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 57 inodorous, passes out at the other end. The bisulphide of carbon is finally separated from the oil by distillation and again used. After the cylinder A 3 is sufficiently steamed, it is emptied and again charged with material and connected with the cylinder A v ; while the other cylinders undergo the same manipulations described above. The saturated oil solution is subjected to distilla- tion, which is readily effected in HeyPs apparatus, Fig. 15. The lower part of the still A of boiler plate is surrounded by the steam-jacket B, into which steam is admitted through C and the condensed water discharged through D. The concentrated oil solution runs from a reservoir, standing at a higher level 58 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. through the pipe E into the still, the admission of a sufficient quantity being indicated by the gauge F. The bisulphide of carbon brought to the boiling point (114 F.) by the steam introduced into the jacket, vaporizes quickly ; the vaporization being still more accelerated by revolving the stirrer H, by means of the crank G. The vapors of bisulphide of carbon escape through four openings in the upper part of the still, into a capacious worm, the lower part of which enters, under water, a reservoir. Notwithstanding the volatility of bisulphide of car- bon, the oil retains a portion of it so tenaciously that a complete separation cannot be accomplished by the introduction of steam into the jacket B. Hence, in order to vaporize the last traces of the solvent, air is introduced into the oil through the pipe K, the lower end of which is perforated. After completed distillation the oil is discharged through L. Maceration or infusion. This process is employed for flowers with an inconsiderable content of volatile oil or whose odoriferous substance would suffer decompo- sition or alteration by distillation. The process is founded on the affinity of odoriferous substances for fatty bodies which, when impregnated with them, are called pomades. These are afterwards made to yield the aroma to strong alcohol, so that finally there is obtained a solution of the volatile oil in alcohol from which the pure oil is obtained by distilling off the alcohol. The fat used, olive oil, lard, etc., should be entirely neutral, i. e., free from every trace of acid. The fats are puri- fied by treating them several times in the heat with weak soda-lye and then washing carefully with water MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 59 until the last traces of the lye are removed, and the fat shows no alkaline or acid reaction. With the use of olive oil the so-called " Huiles antiques" are obtained, which are merely solutions of volatile oils in the fixed oil. By the use of lard, etc., the genuine pomades are obtained, which are directly used as expensive articles of perfumery, but in the factories serve as a starting point for the preparation of volatile oils. The old process of maceration, which is still in use in some parts of France, is as follows : A certain quan- tity of fat is placed in an enameled iron or porcelain pan provided with a water or steam bath When the fat is melted, the freshly gathered flowers from which the aroma is to be extracted are thrown in and left to digest for from twelve to twenty-four hours, the fat being kept fluid and stirred frequently. When the flowers are completely exhausted, the fat is strained from them into fresh pots, in which it is again macerated with fresh flow r ers as before. This operation is repeated ten to fifteen times until the pomade has acquired the desired strength. Experience, however, has shown that volatile oils prepared by this process possess a finer odor the shorter the time the flowers remain in contact with the fat. Piver has devised an apparatus which reduces the time of maceration to the shortest period possible^fThe kettle to the left, Fig. 16, supplies the fat heated to the proper temperature, which circulates slowly through the macerating tank, in which a constant temperature of 149 F. is maintained by means of a steam pipe. The macerating tank is divided into compartments, in which 60 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. baskets containing the vegetable substance to be ex- tracted are suspended. The basket on the left contains the substance which has passed through all the com- partments ; it is from time to time removed, filled with FIG. 16. V M3 >.:\t^ MR; ^>^ ^ip ^Ip- 1 - ted v fresh substance, and then attached to the right, the other baskets being moved to the next compartment to the left. In this way the fresh substance has to traverse each compartment from right to left, while the fat flows slowly from left to right, and saturated with the per- fume of the substance collects in the tank on the ex- treme right. Maceration is employed for the flowers of the orange (citrus aurantum), of the mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius), of the acacia (acacia Farnesiand), of the violet (viola odorata), of the mignonette (reseda odorata), etc. The process of absorption, or u enfieurage" as it is MATEKIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 61 called by the French, is chiefly made use of for pro- curing the odoriferous principle of very delicate flowers, the delicious odor of which would be greatly modified, if not entirely spoiled, by the application of heat. The older apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a number of shallow wooden frames of about 15x18 inches, inclosing at half their depth a sheet of glass. The edges of the frame rise about an inch above each surface of the glass, and, being flat, the frames stand securely upon one another, forming often considerable stacks. These frames are called " chassis" those just described being termed "chassis aux wires" or "chassis aux pomades" to distinguish them from a different form, which is used where oil has to be submitted to the process of absorption. The process in the case of pomade is as follows : Each sheet of glass is uniformly coated with a thin layer of purified grease, care being taken that the grease does not come in contact with the woodwork of the frames. The flowers are then thinly sprinkled, or rather laid, one by one, upon the surface of the fat, where they are allowed to remain one or two days, when they are removed and replaced by fresh ones. The operation is thus continued for twenty-five or thirty days, until the fat is saturated with aroma. The frames charged with fat and flowers are stacked one -upon the other, forming, in fact, a number of little rectangular chambers. For perfuming oils a metal sieve, Fig. 17, is substi- tuted for the glass plate. Upon the sieve a piece of thick cotton cloth saturated with oil is laid, and upon this the flowers are scattered, and left there until fresh ones have to be substituted. The operation is repeated 62 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. until the oil is sufficiently impregnated with aroma, when the cloth is subjected to pressure and the expressed oil filtered. FIG. 17. Jill Mil rrm-rrn-rrr This process is very tedious, requiring much labor and a long time for the impregnation of the fat or oil, but, notwithstanding its faults, it is still pursued to a great extent, some French firms using 3000 such frames during the season. With the apparatus, shown in Fig. 18, the process of absorption can, however, be conducted with very little expense of labor and time. It has the further advantage that the flowers do not come in direct contact with the fat, whereby a saving of the latter is effected, and it is less liable to rancidity. The apparatus consists of a tall wooden box provided with doors which can be hermetically closed. In the box are placed upon brackets a number of glass plates, g, so arranged one above the other that, for instance, those with uneven numbers are on the left side, leaving an open space to the right, while those with even num- bers are arranged on the right side with an open space to the left. From the bottom of the box a pipe passes into a sheet- iron cylinder, K f , filled loosely with flowers* and pro- < MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 63 vided with lateral openings, and O 1 '. From the lid of the box K ascends a pipe, e, which is connected with FIG. 18. a small ventilating apparatus kept in motion by a clock- work and weights. This ventilator when in motion sucks a current of air through the apparatus. The air enters the cylinder K f at 0, and after ascending through the flowers and becoming impregnated with the vapors of the volatile oil enters through the opening 0' into the box K and, in passing in the direction indicated by arrows, over the plates coated with fat, yields its aroma to them. Another apparatus for the same purpose, devised by Piver, is shown in Fig. 19. The fat is converted into 64 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. thin macaroni-like threads and brought upon wire gauze stretched in frames. The flowers to be extracted are piled upon tinned metallic plates, and the trays con- taining the fat and the flowers are placed in an air-tight FIG. 19. chamber arranged as shown in the illustration. The air in the chamber is made to circulate to and fro by the working of a bellows with which the apparatus is pro- vided, whereby the fat is caused to absorb the odor of the flowers very rapidly and is less liable to rancidity. MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 65 The absorption process is employed for the flowers of the jasmine (jasminum oderatissimum), the mignonnette (reseda odorata), the violet (viola tricolor), the tuberose (polianihes tuberosa\ etc. Storage of volatile oils. In storing volatile oils, they should be carefully protected from light and air. Some oils become darker on exposure to light, while others, for instance, lemon oil, become colorless. Most volatile oils, as previously mentioned, absorb oxygen from the air with avidity and combine chemically with it. Thinly-fluid oils become preceptibly more thickly-fluid and finally even rigid, the product of oxidation being a resinous body. Some volatile oils containing aldehydes are converted, by the absorption of oxygen, into acids, cinnamic acid being, for instance, formed in cinnamon oil, and benzoic acid in oil of bitter almonds. To prevent evaporation, as well as the above-men- tioned effects of light and air, the volatile oils should be preserved in not too large glass bottles kept as full as possible, and closed with a good cork, over which it is best to tie a piece of bladder. The bottles should be stored in a cool, shady place. The preserva- tion of the oils is assisted by the addition of 0.5 to 1 per cent, of anhydrous alcohol. 66 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMEKY. CHAPTEK III. TESTING VOLATILE OILS. VOLATILE oils are much adulterated, the adulterations consisting chiefly in mixing an expensive oil with a cheaper one and with alcohol ; more rarely with chloro- form and fat oils. To these adulterations, which have been common for many years, has recently been added the previously mentioned hydrocarbon called terpene or camphene, which is separated in the preparation of concentrated oils. For the recognition of the quality of a volatile oil, serve first of all its physical properties, especially its color, odor and taste. The specific gravity varies too much and is not always a sufficient criterion. Reagents can only be employed with a few oils. The chemical detection of adulterations is rendered especially difficult by the fact, that most of the volatile oils form a mixture of terpenes with other combinations, in which the sepa- rate constituent parts do not appear in fixed, but in changeable proportions, and in which the constituents themselves suffer alteration by storing, air and light. Odor and taste are so characteristic for every volatile oil as to suffice in most cases. For testing as to odor, bring a drop of the oil to be examined upon the dry palm of one hand and for some time rub with the other, whereby the odor is more perceptibly brought out. To TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 67 determine the taste, vigorously shake one drop of the oil with 15 to 20 grammes of distilled water and then test with the tongue. An adulteration with fat oil (poppy oil, castor oil) may be recognized as follows : Place a drop of the suspected oil upon blotting paper and expose it to the heat of the water bath. If it evaporates completely and no stain is perceptible, the oil is pure. But frequently a transpar- ent stain remains with old oils without their being adul- terated, which is due to the resin formed by the absorp- tion of oxygen and remaining dissolved in the oil. In this case a transparent ring is generally formed by the concentration of the resin on the edges of the stain. If no tangible results are obtained by this test, pour a few cubic centimeters of the oil upon a watch-crystal and heat it very slowly upon a piece of sheet-iron, until all the odor has disappeared. If the watch-crystal be- comes empty in a short time, nothing but volatile oil was present ; but if a viscous residue remains, this may consist either of fatty oil or resin, or of both. Treat the residue with strong alcohol ; if it dissolves it may be resin or castor oil. Dilute the solution with much water ; a white flocculent turbidity indicates resin ; the separation of an oily liquid, after standing, castor oil. If the residue remains undissolved, it consists of a fatty oil, generally oil of almond or olive. The presence of castor oil can be accurately deter- mined by bringing the residue from the watch-crystal into a test-tube by means of a glass-rod, and com- pounding it with a few drops of nitric acid. A strong development of gas takes place, after the cessation of which, solution of carbonate of soda is added as long as 68 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. there is any sign of effervescence. If the added oil was castor oil, the contents of the test-tube will show a peculiar odor due to osnauthylic acid formed by the ac- tion of nitric acid upon castor oil. Another method of establishing the presence of fat oil consists in mixing the suspected oil with eight times its quantity of 90 per cent, alcohol (specific gravity 0.823). If the oil is unadulterated a clear solution is formed ; if it contains fat oil, the latter remains undissolved. The presence of castor oil, which of the fat oils is chiefly used for adulteration, is, however, not shown by this method, it being also soluble in alcohol. A permanent stain upon the paper may, however, also be formed by fresh oils obtained by expression from the respective parts of the plant. Thus, lemon oil ob- tained by expression from the peel, and which has a far more agreeable odor than that produced by distillation, always leaves behind a slight grease-stain. Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine. Independent of the alcohol added to assist the preservation of some oils, adulteration with alcohol frequently occurs, especi- ally in expensive oils. With a content of not more than 3 per cent, of alcohol, it suffices to allow one to two drops of the suspected oil to fall into water. In the presence of alcohol, the drop becomes either imme- diately surrounded with a milky zone, or it becomes turbid or whitish after being for some time in contact with the water. DragendorfPs test is based upon the fact that oils, which are hydrocarbons, suffer no change by the addition of sodium (ten drops of oil and a small chip of sodium), while oils containing hydrocarbons and oxygenated oils cause with sodium a slight evolution of TESTJNG VOLATILE OILS. 69 hydrogen gas, and suffer but a slight change during the first five to ten minutes of the reaction. If, however, the oil is adulterated with alcohol, not only a violent evolution of hydrogen gas takes place, but the oil in a short time becomes brown or dark brown, thickly fluid or rigid. The detection of alcohol by means of fuchsine, which has been frequently recommended, requires special pre- cautions. It must first be ascertained that the oil is free from acids and water ; if such is not the case, they must be removed by means of caustic potash. After settling, bring, by means of a dry pipette, about five cubic cen- timeters of the oil into a dry test-tube about ten milli- meters in diameter, without moistening the walls of the upper half of the tube. Then bring, by means of a paper gutter, a few milligrammes of coarsely-powdered fuchsine into the dry part of the obliquely held tube, at a distance of one centimeter from the oil. Now heat gradually over a lamp until the tube begins to tarnish. With pure oil no evaporation is observed, but if the oil contains only 0.1 per cent, of alcohol, every speck of fuchsine will, after heating to boiling and setting aside, be surrounded by a stain produced by the alcoholic solution. The chief requirement for this test is that the oil be free from water. If such is not the case, vapors will be observed, which condense in the upper portion of the test-tube, and dissolve fuchsine, and, after flowing back, sink below the oil with a crackling noise. If the oil contains alcohol, the condensing vapors dissolve fuch- sine with greater ease, and in flowing back mix without crackling. Hager's tannin test is very reliable. Bring into a 70 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. test-tube 5 to 10 drops of the oil to be examined, add a piece of tannin the size of a pea, shake so that the tannin is moistened by the oil, and let the whole stand at a temperature of 59 to 68 F. In most volatile oils tannin is insoluble, and, if the oil is pure, floats for days on the surface without change. If, however, the oil contains alcohol, the tannin absorbs the latter, accord- ing to the quantity present, in 3 to 48 hours, and forms with it a more or less transparent, viscous, tough, or smeary mass resembling a soft resin, which settles on the bottom, and adheres so firmly to it, as well as to the sides of the tube, that it cannot be moved by shak- ing. The mass may be examined as to its consistency with a knitting needle. Traces of moisture in the oil are not detrimental to the test, the tannin mass separat- ing in the form of a hyaline mass only in few oils, and if this mass is tested with the knitting needle it will be found not tough or smeary, but hard, and may some- times be divided into small grains. With oil of bitter almonds, cassia oil, and some oils of clove, as well as volatile oil containing an acid, the tannin test is not available. The first two oils even dissolve tannin, and large quantities of it, if they contain alcohol. The above-mentioned oils may, however, be rendered fit for the tannin test by mixing them with double their volume of benzine or petroleum-ether, and allowing the mixture to stand for two or three days. If, however, the oils contain much alcohol, the tannin is dissolved. The use of powdered tannin is not advisable, because it generally deposits in a thin layer on the bottom, and its alteration is not so perceptible. If, for practical reasons, a content of 0.5 per cent, anhydrous alcohol might be TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 71 accepted as permissible in a volatile oil, the tannin test would have to be so modified as to mix 10 drops of the oil with a piece of tannin the size of two peas, and allow the whole to stand for one hour. In this time the above-mentioned content of alcohol would yield no result. Detection of chloroform. An adulteration with chlo- roform, if moderate, cannot always be detected by the odor and taste. In most cases, chloroform will consid- erably increase the specific gravity of the oil. Bring into a test-tube 15 drops of the suspected oil, 45 to 90 drops of alcohol, and 30 to 40 drops of dilute sulphuric acid. After thorough shaking, add 2 or 3 shavings of zinc sheet and heat until a vigorous evolution of hydro- gen takes place. After again shaking, set the whole aside, and heat again when the evolution of gas becomes weaker. This heating and gentle shaking of the fluid is several times repeated. After 20 to 25 minutes, com- pound the fluid with an equal volume of cold distilled water, shake vigorously and filter through a paper-filter moistened with water. Strongly acidulate the filtrate with nitric acid and compound with nitrate of silver solution. If chloroform is present, turbidity or a pre- cipitate of chloride of silver appears. Detection of benzine. An adulteration with benzine can be readily detected only in oils specifically heavier than water. The separation of benzine is effected by distillation from a small glass flask in the water bath. The distillate together with an equal volume of nitric acid of 1.5 specific gravity is gently heated in a test- tube. A too vigorous reaction is modified by cooling in cold water, and a too sluggish action quickened by gentle 72 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. heating (dipping in warm water). If the mixture has a yellow color, dilute it with water, shake with ether, mix the decanted ethereal solution with alcohol and hy- drochloric acid, add some zinc and place the whole in a lukewarm place to convert the nitrobenzol formed into aniline. After evolution of hydrogen is done, neutralize with potash lye, shake, take oft" the layer of ether, let the latter evaporate and add to the residue a few drops of calcium chloride solution. If benzine is present, a blue-violet color reaction takes place. Adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine are quantitatively determined by bringing a weighed quantity of the oil into a glass flask so that it occupies about four-fifths of the volume of the flask. Place upon the flask a cork through which has been passed a glass-tube bent at a right angle and provided with a cylindrical glass vessel serving as a receiver and heating in the water bath. If the distance from the level of the oil to the angle of the glass tube in which it inclines downwards, amounts, for instance, to 4.72 inches, and the neck of the flask up to its angle is 2.75 inches high outside of the direct effect of the heat of the water bath, only the above-mentioned adulterants distill over, while the vapor of the volatile oil condenses at a height of 2.75 inches and flows back into the flask The distillate is weighed and examined as to its derivation. First add one cubic centimeter of it to two or three cubic centi- meters of potassium acetate solution of specific gravity 1.197 and shake moderately. If a clear mixture results, alcohol alone is present. If, however, the mixture is not clear, and the distilled fluid sinks down and collects on the bottom of the test-tube, chloroform is very likely TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 73 present, and if it remains floating upon the acetate solu- tion, benzine. Next bring two to three centimeters of the distillate into a test-tube and add a piece of sodium metal, the size of a pea. If violent foaming, i. e., an evolution of gas, takes place, alcohol is certainly present, and possibly also chloroform and benzine towards which sodium is indifferent. However, in the presence of benzine, the sodium solution would be colorless, and in the presence of chloroform, yellowish and turbid. In case the sodium produces no reaction and alcohol is, therefore, not present, add an e^ual vol- ume (two to three cubic centimeters) of anhydrous alco- hol, and after moderately shaking allow the solution of the sodium and the evolution of gas to proceed, whereby benzine produces a nearly colorless, turbid fluid, and chloroform a yellowish, milky one. Now dilute the fluid with an equal or double volume of water, shake and allow the mixture to stand quietly. In the presence of benzine a colorless, turbid layer collects on the bot- tom of the fluid, w r hile that collecting in the presence of chloroform is yellowish. In the latter case, i. e., in the presence of chloroform, the aqueous filtrate yields with lead acetate solution a white precipitate (lead chloride and lead hydroxide). The adulterant having thus been recognized, further particulars are learned from the specific gravity of the oil as well as of the distillate. Adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids, such as are gained in the preparation of concentrated or patent oils, are difficult to recognize. They may be detected by the specific gravity, the terpenes being, as a rule, specifically lighter, their specific gravity varying between 0.840 and 0.870. 74 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. The detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality is very difficult, if not led to it by the odor and taste. Many methods for establishing such adul- terations have been proposed, of which the following are the most important : I. Test with iodine. This test is based upon the fact that some oils violently detonate with iodine, while others develop heat and vapors, and others again remain indifferent. For this test pour upon about 0.19 gramme of dry iodine in a watch-crystal 4 to 6 drops of the oil to be examined. 1. A vigorous reaction (detonation) with considerable increase in the temperature and emission of vapors takes place with the following oils : oils of bergamot, lemon, lavender, nutmeg, orange peel, spike, turpentine, worm- wood. 2. Such a reaction as mentioned under 1, does not take place with oils of bitter almonds, copaiba, calamus, clove, peppermint, rose. 3. Moderate heating and slight vapors are developed with oils of anise-seed, fennel, camomile, curly mint, marjoram, rosemary, sassafras, thyme. When an oil of the second series becomes heated with iodine and evolves vapors, it may first of all be adul- terated with cheaper oils. This may also be the case when an oil of the third series reacts violently with iodine and evolves vapors with strong heating. For- merly the iodine test was highly valued ; it has, how- ever, been shown to be unreliable since it is frequently dependent on the age of the oil. In place of iodine, Rudolph Eck recommends a very dilute alcoholic iodine solution, which is not discolored TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 75 by oils of turpentine, while other oils discolor it. Dis- solve a drop of the oil to be examined in 3 cubic cen- timeters of 90 to 100 per cent, alcohol, and add a drop of the iodine solution. The latter is not discolored in the presence of an oil of turpentine. There are also, however, several volatile oils, which do not discolor the iodine solution. Mierzinski mentions the following : All cold-expressed oils from the Aurantiacece, further oils of coriander, caraway, galanga, rue, sassafras, rose, rosemary, anise-seed, fennel, calamus, neroli, angelica, wormwood. Hence, this reaction can-not be relied upon. II. Hoppers nitroprusside of copper test. This test sometimes gives good results, but only with hydrocar- bons absolutely free from oxygen and oxygenated oils. It is, therefore, not suitable for oils derived from the Aurantiaeece. The process is as follows : Add to a small quantity of the oil to be examined in a per- fectly dry test-tube, 2 to 5 milligrammes of pure nitroprusside of copper previously thoroughly dried and finely pulverized, shake vigorously and gradually heat to boiling. After boiling for a few seconds allow to cool. If the oil is free from oil of turpentine, or another oil containing no oxygen, the precipitate formed is brown, black, or gray, and according to the quantity of the reagent added and the original color of the oil, the supernatant oil will be differently colored and appear more or less dark. If, however, the oil is adulterated with oil of turpentine, the precipitate formed shows a handsome green or blue-green color, while the supernatant oil retains its original color or at the utmost acquires a very slightly darker one. The longer the oil is allowed to stand after settling, the more 76 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. distinct and beautiful the color of the oil and of the pre- cipitate appears. For the establishment and certain recognition of very small quantities of oil of turpentine in oxygenated oils, it is best to first add very little of the nitroprusside of copper to the oil to be tested, and a larger quantity o~ily after being convinced either of the purity or adulteration of the oil. This is done to be able, on the one hand, better to judge the reaction, if the oil is pure, and, on the other, if it is adulterated, to establish such adulteration with certainty and to ap- proximately estimate the quantity of oil of turpentine present. The less nitroprusside of copper is used, the better small quantities of oil of turpentine can be detected. Nearly all volatile oils free from oxygen show the same behavior towards nitroprusside of copper; they decompose it, which is not the case with oxygenated oils. The behavior, of the latter is shown in the following table : TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 77 Name of the oil. Color of the oil. Proportion of nitro- prusside of copper to oil. Color of the oil after the experiment. Color of the precipitate. Caraway . . clear as water 1 1000 parts slightly yellowish dirty gray. and colorless Fennel V ." Dill .... pale yellowish pale reddish- 1 1000 " 1 1000 " brownish-yellow becomes first color- black. yellow less, then yellowish Anise-seed . pale yellow 1 1000 '$ yellow " Camomile (green) . . Lavender . . yellowish pale yellow 1 1000 ' 1 1000 " brownish-yellow wine-yellow ash-gray, slate-gray. u M 1 100 " brown-yellow ** Mint (curly) colorless 1 1000 " wine-yellow first gray, then black. Peppermint 1 1000 " yellowish black. " " 1 100 " brownish-yellow Balm . . . yellow 1 1000 " dark wine-yellow " Marjoram colorless 1 1000 " yellowish " " " 1 100 " brown-yellow *< Sage . . ! slightly yel- 1 1000 " wine-yellow dark green. lowish " ... " 1 100 " brown-yellow dark green. then nearly black. Thyme (field) " 1 1000 " brownish-yellow slate-gray. Wormwood . yellow-brown 1 100 " 1 1000 " dark brown-yellow dark brown nearly black, black. Tansy . . . pale yellow 1 1000 " red-brown dirty brown. Milfoil . . dark azure- 1 1000 " first pale blue, then gray-brown. blue dark green Cajeput . . colorless 1 1000 " brownish-yellow black. Clove . . . slightly yel- 1 2000 " rose-red and clear slate-gray. lowish " ... " 1 1000 " violet-red and clear " " ... " 1 500 " cherry-red and " " 1 100 " opaque dark cherry-red and opaque Cassia . . . brownish- 1 1000 " brownish-red to black. yellow hyacinth-red ** *' 1 100 " dark brown-red ** Sassafras . . Star anise yellowish pale yellow 1 1000 " 1 1000 " yellowish-brown dark wine-yellow Valerian . . Rue .... pale greenish slightly yel- 1 100 " 1 100 " brownish-yellow brown-yellow ash-gray. lowish Bergamotte . yellowish 1 1000 " dark yellow " 1 100 " brownish-red If these oxygenated oils are mixed with oils free from oxygen, for instance, oil of turpentine, they show exactly the same behavior as oils free from oxygen ; the nitro- prusside of copper is not decomposed and retains its gray-green color. If, for instance, oil of cloves is 78 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. mixed with oil of turpentine, the red coloration by nitroprusside of copper does not appear. III. Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test. Bring into a test-tube of about 0.5 inch diameter, five to six drops of the oil to be tested and twenty-five to thirty drops of pure concentrated sulphuric acid, and mix the two fluids by shaking, whereby either 'no heating takes place or a scarcely perceptible one, or the heating is strong or very vigorous and in some cases increased to the evolution of vapors. The mixture is either clear or turbid. After complete cooling, add to the mixture eight to ten cubic centimeters of 90 per cent, alcohol, and after closing the tube with the finger, shake vigorously. The mixture now shows a different color, is clear or turbid, and the deposit formed after standing for one day is also differ- ently colored and either soluble or insoluble in boiling alcohol. The mixture of oil, sulphuric acid and alcohol is per- fectly clear and transparent with oils of bitter almonds, fennel, clove and rose ; with anise-seed oil and star anise- seed oil only the alcoholic layer over the mixture of sul- phuric acid and oil is clear. The mixture of oil, acid and alcohol is slightly turbid or nearly clear with oils of valerian, peppermint and field thyme. With most of the other volatile oils occurring in commerce, the mixture is more or less milky turbid. Heating of the oil and acid mixtures does not take place with pyrogenous oils (pe- troleum, benzine) or only to a very slight degree, as with oils of peppermint and mustard. IV. Hager's guaiacum reaction* serves for the detec- * Hager, Chemische Reactionen zur Nachweise des Terpentinoels in den aetherischen Oelen, etc. Berlin, 1885. TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 79 t ion of oil of turpentine in a volatile oil. By pouring upon as much guaiacum, freshly powdered, as will lie upon the point of a small knife, in a test-tube 1 cubic centi- meter (25 drops) of spike oil, and heating nearly to boil- ing over a petroleum lamp, the oil after being removed from the flame and allowing the undissolved resin to settle, shows a yellow color. By now pouring upon an equal quantity of guaiacum in another test-tube 25 drops of spike oil and 5 drops of rectified oil of turpentine, and heating nearly to boiling, the oil after being re- moved from the flame shows a dark violet color. Various other oils behave in the same manner as spike oil, and hence a content of oil of turpentine can be readily detected in them. Other oils do not exhibit this behavior ; but this can be remedied by adding, in test- ing for oil of turpentine, a few drops of an oil of the first class. The guaiacum reaction is an ozone reaction and with reference to this, the volatile oils may be divided into three classes : a. Oils inclining to the formation of ozone. Foremost of these is oil of turpentine, especially when rectified. Oils of tansy, rue, mint, juniper, zedoary, etc., show con- siderably less inclination. b. Oils which, especially when heated, directly incite the oil of turpentine to form ozone, and to color guaiacum violet or blue. Such oils are many kinds of oil of cit- ronella, oils of spike, calamus, cedar, etc. c. Oils with a content of oil of turpentine, which re- main indifferent towards guaiacum. To such oils, if to be tested for oil of turpentine, with the assistance of the 80 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. guaiacum reaction, a few drops of an oil of the second class have to be added. Y. Hiibl's iodine method. Mr. C. Barenthin has applied Hiibl's iodine method for fixed oils to the examination of volatile oils. He uses the following solutions : 1. Fifty grammes iodine and 60 grammes of mercuric chloride in a liter of alcohol freed from fusel oil, and let stand for 12 hours. 2. Twenty-four grammes of hyposulphite of sodium in a liter of water. 3. A ten per cent, solution of iodide of potassium. Dissolve 0.1 to 0.2 gramme of the volatile oil in 10 cubic centimeters of chloroform, and add first 15 cubic centimeters of the iodine-mercuric chloride solution ; let stand three or four hours, and, in case the mixture gets discolored, add a few more centimeters of solution. Now add 10 to 15 cubic centimeters iodide of potassium solution, dilute with 150 cubic centimeters of water, and titrate with hyposulphite till the mixture remains clear for about a minute. The iodide of potassium solution must be added before the water, and the relative propor- tions between this solution and the iodine-mercuric chloride solution must be 15 to 20 cubic centimeters. The quantity of iodine solution consumed is calculated to iodine for 100 parts and the figure thus obtained is designated as the " iodine number." Barenthin has in this manner determined the iodine number of several volatile oils; other experimenters, however, for instance, Kremel and Davies,* have found * Pliarm. Centralh. 1888, S. 482 u. 555 ; 1889, S. 133. TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 81 different numbers for the same oils, so that this method requires further thorough examination before it can be classed as available. VI. A. Krernel has endeavored to utilize titration or saponification with alcoholic potash lye for the exami- nation of volatile oils. In his experiments he was guided by the following points : A series of volatile oils contains partially free organic acids, like oils of bitter almonds and cinnamon, and partially aldehydes or other combina- tions. Now it seems not impossible, that up to a certain limit, the quantities of these combinations in the separate volatile oils remain constant, thus presenting the oppor- tunity of testing the respective oils as to their quality and purity by saponification. In some cases these com- binations are the chief bearers of the specific odor, and hence the determination of the " saponification number" becomes of double value. It is, of course, self-evident that not every volatile oil can be saponified, and Kremel admits that, even where saponification takes place, it is not in every case a sure test. The execution of the method is as follows : Dissolve 1 gramme of the oil to be examined in 2 to 3 cubic cen- timeters of 90 per cent, alcohol freed from acid, com- pound the solution with a few drops of phenol-phthalein solution, and titrate the free acid with J normal alcoholic potash lye. The milligrammes of caustic potash used are designated the " acid number" After having thus determined the content of acid, add to the same solu- tion 10 cubic centimeters of the same potash lye, heat for J hour upon the water bath, and then titrate back the excess of potash lye with J normal hydrochloric acid. In this manner the " saponification number" is obtained. 6 82 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. (In some cases when the final reaction is not plainly per- ceptible, it is advisable to correspondingly dilute with water after heating the alcoholic fluid.) The saponifi- cation number, less the acid number, gives the " ether or ester number" Kremel has in this manner examined a large number of volatile oils and partially obtained surprising results. Rose oil gives a saponification number of 12, and geranium oils one of 40 to 50. While lavender oils give very high saponification numbers, oil of lemons does not. Artificial oil of bitter almonds shows higher saponification numbers than the natural oil. By further compounding the saponified portions of the latter with acid, a crystalline precipitate of benzoin is formed, the quantity of which amounts to from 40 to 50 per cent, of the oil used. Such a precipitate, but only in very small quantities, is also formed in peach kernel oil, but not in other similar oils nor in artificial oil of bitter almonds. VII. F. R. Williams has recently endeavored to utilize for testing volatile oils Maumen^'s test, which is based upon the increase in temperature produced in oils by concentrated sulphuric acid, and which gives valuable points for the examination of some fat oils. Of course, the large quantities of oil otherwise prescribed cannot be used. While for the examination of fat oils 50 grammes of oil are mixed with 10 cubic centimeters of concen- trated sulphuric acid in a beaker glass wrapped around with cotton, Williams could use only six cubic centi- meters of volatile "oil. They were brought into a very small beaker glass enveloped in cotton. After reading off the temperature, twelve cubic centimeters of concen- trated sulphuric acid were added and the whole stirred TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 83 with the thermometer until the temperature no longer rose. Numbers were in this manner obtained which might in some cases, for instance, cassia oil, furnish guiding points for judging the purity of the "oil. Planchon proposes the following procedure in order to recognize a volatile oil : A. The oil is specifically lighter than water. 1. The substance is solid and only melts at 347 F. : . Camphor. 2. The oil at a temperature of over 32 F. contains a crystalline stearoptene. a. The oil is laevorotatory, the stearoptene melts at 77 F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, a clear solution remains behind : Rose oil. b. The oil possesses no rotatory power, the stearop- tene melts at 50 F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, two layers are formed, only one of which is liquid : Anise-seed oil. c. The oil is dextrorotatory, the stearoptene melts at 41 F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, a nearly colorless fluid remains behind : Fennel oil. 3. The oil is perfectly fluid and clear at above 32 F. I. The oil explodes with iodine, emitting violet vapors. a. The oil thickens in the air and readily forms resin. It requires for its solution several volumes of al- cohol : Oil of conifers. b. The oil, on exposure to the air, does not thicken and but slowly forms resin, o. It is dextrorotatory. The liquid oil dissolves santalin : Oil of the aurantiacece. 84 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. The thick oil does not dissolve santalin : Mace oil. j3. The oil is laevorotatory. The oil shows an acid reaction and dissolves in equal parts of alcohol : Lavender oil. The oil shows a neutral reaction and dissolves in 12 to 15 parts of alcohol : Marjoram oil. II. The oil gives no explosion with iodine, but shows an increase in temperature with or without emission of red vapors. a. The oil shows an acid reaction. a. The blue or green oil shows the acid reaction only indistinctly : Milfoil oil. /3. The colorless or brown oil gives a turbid fluid with sulphuric acid. It is laevorotatory : Spanish marjoram oil. The oil is rendered but slightly turbid by sulphuric acid; it acquires a red-violet color by nitric acid, has no effect upon the plane of polarization, and has a peculiar odor : Oil of valerian. b. The oil is neutral. a. It dissolves with difficulty in alcohol. j3. The oil is miscible in every proportion with alcohol. 1. It is dextrorotatory. The oil is colorless or yellowish, it thick- ens on exposure to the air, and dissolves and reduces fuchsine : Caraway oil. The oil is thick, yellow-brown or red- yellow, and has a peculiar odor : Cala- mus oil. TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 85 2. The oil is laevorotatory. It is fluid and has an aromatic odor: Rosemary oil. The oil is thick and very pungent : Onbebs oil. III. The oil dissolves iodine without vigorous reac- tion and without an increase in the temperature. a. The oil is blue and green. It has an agreeable, camphor-like odor : Camomile oil. The green oil thickens in the air and is dextro- rotatory : Wormwood oil. The oil is generally green and produces no effect upon the plane of polarization : Cajeput oil. b. The oil is colorless or yellow-brown. a. It separates a solid stearoptene at about 32 F. : Rue oil. |3. The oil remains liquid at several degrees be- low 32 F. 1. Dextrorotatory oils. The oil shows an acid reaction, and gives with sulphuric acid a somewhat turbid solution, which becomes clear by the addition of alcohol : Dill oil. The oil gives with sulphuric acid a yel- low-red turbid solution, which becomes clear and peach-blossom red by the ad- dition of alcohol : Eucalyptus oil. 2. Laevorotatory oil. The oil showing an acid reaction becomes thick in the air and has a characteristic odor : Mint oil. 86 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. The oil shows a neutral reaction and has a camphor-like odor : Thyme oil. IV. The oil does not dissolve iodine, does not heat with sulphuric acid, and does not react upon nitric acid. The odor is empyreumatic : Petroleum. B. The oil is specifically heavier than water. 1. The oil shows an acid reaction. It is soluble in 30 parts of water, boils at 356 F., and smells of bitter almonds : Oil of bitter almonds. The oil has an agreeable, sweet odor and boils at from 392 to 431.6 F. : Wintergreen oil. 2. The oil shows a neutral reaction. a. The oil is laevorotatory. It becomes blue by the addition of sulphuric acid : Oil of cloves. b. The oil is optically inactive. The thick oil gives with sulphuric acid a tur- bid, black-brown fluid ; the odor is agree- able : Cinnamon oil. c. The oil is dextrorotatory. The thick oil has an agreeable odor : Sassa- fras oil. VOLATILE OILS USED IS PERFUMERY. '87 CHAPTER IV. THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. THE volatile oils, as previously mentioned, may be di- vided into three groups, viz : the pure hydrocarbons, oxygenated oils, and sulphuretted oils. Chemically, this division is, however, of little value, since, among bodies which should be classed according to it in one of the groups, combinations are found which vary very much in a chemical respect, and belong partially in the groups of alcohols, indifferent bodies, acids, etc. It is, therefore, preferred not to attempt a classifica- tion of the volatile oils according to their chemical com- position, but simply to enumerate them in alphabetical order. Acacia, oil of, commonly called oil of cassie. The flowers or buds of the acacia Farnesiana yield a some- what thickly-fluid, greenish -yellow oil of a very intense but delightful odor. The oil may be obtained either by extraction or absorption. The acacia is cultivated in special plantations along the Riviera di Genova. These plantations being controlled by a few perfumers, the oil is not allowed to reach the market, and does not form an article of commerce. The green-colored extrait $ acacia is a solution of the oil in alcohol. Almond oil (bitter) (oleum amygdalae amarce) is obtained by submitting bitter almond cake (left after the expres- 88 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMEEY. sion of the fixed oil from bitter almonds) to distillation with water. The volatile oil does not exist ready formed in the bitter almond, nor in the almond cake, but results from the decomposition of a glucoside called " amygdalin," contained in the cake, under the influence of emulsin and water, the emulsin acting as a ferment, into benzylic aldehyde, glucose and prussic acid. The almond tree grows wild, but is also cultivated in South- ern Europe, Africa, Barbary, Palestine and Syria. The bitter almonds brought from Barbary are considered the best. Besides, in almonds, amygdalin occurs in various other plants ; for instance, in the leaves of the cherry laurel, the leaves and kernels of the peach, the kernels of the black cherry and other varieties of prunus and amygdalus, they all yielding, after maceration with water, a distillate containing prussic acid and oil of bitter almonds. Instead of the comparatively expensive bitter almonds, peach kernels freed from their hard shells are extensively used in the fabrication of oil of bitter almonds. The oil is prepared as follows : The press cakes of bitter almonds or peach kernels are ground and soaked about twenty- four hours in twice their weight of water to which one- third their weight of salt has been added. The whole is then submitted to distillation. The temperature of the water should not exceed 113 to 122 F. The emulsin contained in the almonds possesses only within certain limits of temperature the power of decomposing amygdalin, and, if heated to 176 F., becomes inopera- tive. Hence, if the almond paste is quickly heated to boiling, the emulsin becomes inoperative before all the amygdalin is decomposed, and a portion of it being con- VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 89 sequently lost, the yield is insufficient. The distillation of the almond paste is effected in a current of steam. A portion of the prussic acid formed by the decom- position of the amygdalin adheres tenaciously to the oil. This content of prussic acid makes the oil of bitter almonds exceedingly poisonous, while in itself it is non- poisonous. It can be freed from the prussic acid by shaking with ferrous sulphate (blue vitriol) solution. By then distilling over burnt lime the originally yellow or yellowish oil is obtained colorless. It is then thinly fluid, of a peculiar agreeable odor and strongly nutty taste. Its specific gravity is 1.043 at 59 F., but varies a little with age. It boils at 356 F., and dissolves in 13 parts of water, but more readily in alcohol and ether. In the air it is rapidly converted into benzoic acid by the absorption of oxygen. It has to be carefully pro- tected from air and light and kept in well-closed bottles in a dark place. The crude oil, containing from 2 to 5 per cent, prussic acid, has generally a yellowish color. Oil of bitter almonds may be prepared artificially in many ways. By allowing chlorine to flow into boiling toluene, the latter is converted into benzyl chloride : C 6 H.(CH 3 ) +C1 2 = C.H/CH, 01) + HCl toluene chlorine benzyl chloride hydrogen chloride By withdrawing the chlorine and one atom hydrogen from the benzyl chloride and introducing for it one atom oxygen, the benzyl chloride is converted into ben- zaldehyde. This conversion is readily effected by con- tinuously boiling, best with the introduction of carbonic acid, 1 part of benzyl chloride with 1J parts of lead nitrate and 10 parts of water, and finally distilling the 90 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. benzaldehyde off by steam. The decomposition takes place according to the following equation : 2[C 6 H 5 (CH 2 C1)] + Pb(N0 3 )2 = 2[C 6 H 5 (CHO)] + PbCl 2 + NA 4- H,O. The crude benzaldehyde thus obtained is agitated with warm solution of acid sodium sulphite, the so- lution formed thereby is separated from undissolved oily particles and cooled, whereby a combination of benzaldehyde with acid sodium sulphate crystallizes out. This combination is separated from the re- maining fluid, decomposed by acid and submitted to distillation, whereby benzaldehyde passes over. Large quantities of benzaldehyde are at present pre- pared according to this method. The identity of benzaldehyde with oil of bitter almonds has been established by Lippmann and Hawliczek. Genuine oil of almonds is much adulterated, chiefly with alcohol, nitrobenzole, and various cheaper oils. An addition of 3 to 5 per cent, of alcohol is frequently made by Italian dealers in order to conceal a content of water, which at a low temperature is apt to render the oil turbid. To detect the presence of alcohol, moder- ately heat a sample of the oil in a distilling apparatus and compound the drops, first passing over with sodium carbonate solution and then with potassium iodide sol^- tion. In the presence of alcohol a yellowish crystalline precipitate of iodoform is formed. An addition of synthetically composed oil might seem of no importance, since the natural oil does not differ from it. However, for very fine perfumery the natural oil cannot be replaced by the artificial, it having been VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 91 thus far impossible to obtain the latter absolutely chemi- cally pure. It always contains small quantities of undecomposed chlorine combinations which injure the taste and odor. To detect such oil in the natural oil, bring a few drops upon a tuft of cotton and ignite it. Over the burning flame invert a beaker moistened inside with water. On the moist sides of the beaker the soot and hydrochloric acid formed by the combustion of the chlorine combination are precipitated. When the flame is extinguished, the beaker is rinsed out with water, the fluid filtered and tested for chlorine with nitrate of silver. An addition of 10 per cent, artificial oil can in this manner be accurately determined. If genuine oil of bitter almonds containing prussic acid, be heated with an excess of alcoholic potash lye, and the excess of the latter be neutralized with hydrochloric acid, benzoin amounting to 40 to 50 per cent, of the weight of oil of bitter almonds is, according to A. Kremel, separated. By subjecting artificial oil of bitter almonds to the same treatment, no benzoin is separated, so that the genuine oil can in this manner be distinguished from the artifi- cial. Kremel further found that oil of bitter almonds prepared from apricot kernels, when treated in an analo- gous manner, yielded considerably less benzoin, and that cherry-laurel oil containing prussic acid, which has been considered identical with oil of bitter almonds, sepa- rated no benzoin whatever. Should further experiments prove the constancy of this phenomenon, this reaction would be a convenient means of distinguishing the four products. An adulteration with nitrobenzole and other volatile oils is recognized by mixing 2 drops of the oil with 100 92 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. drops of distilled water, and shaking vigorously. Pure oil must completely dissolve. However, the test yields accurate results only with the use of actually pure dis- tilled water and by accurately observing the above- mentioned proportions. If to 5 cubic centimeters of 90 per cent, alcohol and an equal quantity of distilled water in a test-tube, 10 drops of the oil be added, and, after closing the tube with the finger, mixture be effected by gently turning the tube twice upside down, a clear solution will immediately result if the oil is pure. If, however, it contains nitrobenzole, even only 1 per cent., the latter separates, at first rendering the fluid turbid, but in the course of a minute, when gently agitated, it floats in the form of minute drops upon the fluid, while, when at rest, these drops collect to larger ones on the bottom ot the test-tube. If the oil becomes only turbid, adultera- tion with other volatile oils is indicated. Another test, given by Wagner, is based upon the difference in the specific gravity of mixtures of oil of bitter almonds with oil of mirbane. The specific gravity of commercial oil of bitter almonds varies between 1.040 and 1.043 and that of oil of mirbane between 1.180 and 1.201. 5 o. c. of pure oil of bitter almonds weigh 5.29 grammes. 5 " mixed with i oil of mirbane " 5.39 " 5 " " " " " " 5.57 " 5 " " " f " " " 5.75 " 5 " of pure " " " 5.90 " Oil of bitter almonds is much used in the fabrication of perfumery. In a pure state its odor is by no means agreeable, but rather strong and stupefying. When strongly diluted it is, however, very pleasant. Angelica oil is obtained by distillation with water VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 93 from the root of Angelica Archangelica L., natural order Umbettiferae. The oil is lighter than water, pos- sesses the spicy odor of the root and an aromatic pun- gent taste. It consists mostly of a terpene which turns the plane of polarization to the right, and boils at 320 F. Besides the oil from the root, one obtained from the seeds also occurs in commerce. It is, however, more expensive. In a fresh state it is amber-yellow, and has a specific gravity of 0.8549 at 59 F. ; older oil is thickly-fluid, brown, and has a specific gravity of 0.9086. It contains a terpene which turns the plane of polari- zation to the right, and has a lemon-like odor. It is used for fine perfumery. Anise-seed oil (oleum anisi). The anise (Pimpinella anisum L.\ natural order Umbelliferae, contains volatile oil in all parts, but chiefly in the seeds. Dry anise-seed yields by distillation 2J to 3 per cent, of oil, while the peduncle and chaff contain at the utmost 1 per cent, of oil, which is said to be richer in stearoptene. The anise- seed oil prepared in Southern Russia has always been highly valued, but as it is generally considerably adul- terated, the Leipsic manufacturers of volatile oils prefer to import the seed and distill it themselves. Freshly prepared anise-seed oil is colorless or straw- yellow, has the odor of anise and a sweetish taste, leav- ing a burning sensation upon the tongue. It is thinly fluid at 68 F., but commences to congeal at a somewhat lower temperature, and the sooner the more stearoptene it contains. Good oil should become solid at from 57.2 to 60.8 F. It has a specific gravity of 0.980 to 0.995 at 59 F. The specific gravity varies with the content 94 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. of stearoptene; the greater the latter the higher the specific gravity. Good anise-seed oil contains 5 to 10 per cent, of terpene and 90 to 95 per cent, of a stearoptene, called anethol, C 10 H 12 O, on which the value of the oil depends. The anethol can be separated from the oil by cooling to 32 F., and forms colorless crystals. It has an agreeable odor and intensely sweet taste, is sparingly soluble in water, but readily in alcohol, ether, and other solvents of volatile oils. Good anethol has a specific gravity of 0.986, and melts at 69 to 70 F. By fre- quent contact with the air a small portion of the anethol is oxidized, very likely to anisaldehyde. By this pro- cess the specific gravity is raised and the melting point lowered. Anise-seed oil is soluble in 5 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol, and with 3J times its volume of petroleum- ether yields a clear mixture. Its mixture with four times its weight of petroleum-ether is turbid, but be- comes clear in ten minutes, while that with five times its volume of petroleum -ether remains for a longer time turbid. In a fluid state the oil, when exposed to the air, becomes resinous and loses its property to crystal- lize. It should, therefore, be kept in tightly-closed bottles in a cool, shady place. Anise-seed oil is used in perfuming soaps and mouth waters. It should, however, be used with prudence, since the sweetish, penetrating odor of the oil readily overcomes the other volatile oils in the mixture, and ren- ders them inoperative. Star anise oil very much resembles the ordinary anise- seed oil. It is obtained from star anise, the fruit of Illicium anisatum, a tree formerly supposed to be indige- VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 95 nous to Cochin China, and cultivated in China, Japan, and the Phillipine Islands. However, according to Messrs. Bourgeoin-Meiifre, a French firm of Hanoi (Tonkin), the star anise oil found in commerce is exclu- sively produced in the French colony Tonkin (Province Langson), the French government having made over the entire sale of the oil to the above-mentioned firm. According to a memoir published by Dr. Blondel, of Paris, the star anise tree is not indigenous to the Chinese provinces Yunnan, Quang-si, and Fo-Rien, but to the province Langson, which has by conquest passed into French possession. Hence, the producers of star anise and star anise oil are now under French control and, as it seems, are obliged to sell all the oil produced to the above-mentioned firm. If these statements should prove correct, the Chinese harbors Macao and Hong Kong, from which the greater portion of star anise oil was formerly exported, will lose their importance in this respect and the product find its way direct from Hanoi via Hayphong to Marseilles. The first shipment from Bourgeoin-Meiffre arrived in Europe in December, 1890. According to Messrs. Schimmel & Co.'s report, the pro- duct is put up and packed exactly like that formerly shipped from Hong Kong, and the oil of excellent quality. Star anise oil differs from the ordinary oil in con- taining a much smaller quantity of anethol, and hence congealing only at a temperature of from 41 to 50 F. Besides the odor of the terpene contained in star anise oil differs from that of the ordinary oil. Admixtures ot star anise oil can, therefore, be generally recognized by the odor. Other methods recommended for its detec- tion are unreliable. 96 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Balm oil. The leaves of this plant, Melissa offieinalis, yield by distillation a volatile oil sometimes called oil of melissa. It is colorless or yellowish, of a pleasant odor, has a specific gravity of 0.85 to 0.92, shows a slightly acid reaction and dissolves in 2 to 3 parts of alcohol. It must not be confounded with the so-called East India oil of melissa or citronella oil from Andropogon Nardus L. Balm oil is occasionally used in the prepa- ration of eau de Cologne. Basil oil is distilled in Southern France from the fresh leaves of Ocymum basilicum L., natural order Labiatce. The oil shows the peculiar odor of the herb and crys- tallizes a few degrees above 32 F. In perfumery it is used as an addition to violet and other preparations. The French also prepare a pommade basilique, which serves as a cheap substitute for violet pomade. Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, is extracted by dis- tillation from the leaves of Myrcia. acris or the bay- berry tree. Many varieties of the tree exist throughout the West Indies, which are scarcely to be distinguished botanically, but have quite a different odor from that of the genuine tree. Great care must, therefore, be taken in the collection of the leaves which are to be used, as the admixture of a small quantity of the other leaves may entirely spoil the product of distillation. Two oils are obtained, a light oil of specific gravity of 0.870 to 0.990, and a heavy oil with specific gravity 1.023 to 1.037. When first distilled the oil is colorless, but by exposure to the air quickly acquires a yellowish tint and, if the exposure be continued, becomes quite dark in color. The odor of the freshly-distilled oil is rank, but in the course of from three to six months it becomes mellow, VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 97 and ripens into the agreeable fragrance so much liked in the best specimens of bay-rum. The oil is soluble in all proportions in 95 per cent, alcohol, also in ether and petroleum benzine. Its chief use is for the preparation of bay-rum. Bergamot oil is obtained from the rinds of the fruit of citrus bergamia, a tree belonging to the natural order Aurantiacece. The rind is grated and the oil running off separated from the aqueous fluid and cellular sub- stance by means of a separating funnel, or the grated mass is distilled in a current of carbonic acid. The oil is very fluid and pale yellow, but poorer qualities are fre- ' quently greenish or brownish. When distilled with water it becomes perfectly colorless, but is less durable. Its odor is very pleasant, somewhat like a mixture of orange and lemon oils. Its specific gravity is 0.87 to 0.89. By standing for some time, the oil separates white crystalline scales (stearoptene), which melt at 223 F. The oil becomes solid a few degrees below the freez- ing point. The Messina oil of bergamot is considered the best. From other volatile oils of the orange family, bergamot oil differs in dissolving readily in caustic pot- ash, forming a clear solution. It has, however, the same property as other oils of a similar origin, of igniting with iodine and not dissolving santalin, the red resinous coloring matter of santal-wood. Bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing it with alcohol. It becomes pale gray-yellow, forms a sediment which adheres firmly to the vessel and, on shaking, floats about in the form of flakes. After two days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to divide into flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking. 7 98 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. The oil is frequently adulterated with alcohol. To detect such adulteration, Righini recommends the follow- ing method : Mix 15 parts of the oil with a like quan- tity of pure olive oil or oil of sweet almonds. If alcohol is present, it immediately separates, like water, from the fat oil ; if no separation takes place the oil is not adulterated with alcohol. The tannin test also gives reliable results. In storing oil of bergamot great care must be exercised to exclude air and light, as it is one of the most changeable oils and soon acquires an odor resembling that of turpentine. Large quantities of oil of bergamot are used in per- fumery. It forms, so to say, the basis for most of the ' finer products. In Cologne water it forms the principal constituent in the mixture of volatile oils. Cqjeput oil (oleum cajeputi). This oil is obtained by distillation from the leaves of several species of Melaleucce, natural order Caryophyllacece, indigenous to the East Indies, Banda, and Malabar. The ordinary oil has a greenish color and possesses a strong odor of camphor and a pungent taste. It is chiefly imported by way of Amsterdam, where it is partially discolored by rectifi- cation, so that two kinds, the white and green cajeput oil, are brought into commerce. The color of the latter is generally supposed to be due to a resinous substance containing chlorophyl, though others assert that it origi- nates from the copper of the distilling apparatus and the copper flasks in which it is dispatched. The specific gravity of the oil varies between 0.910 and 0.940, though specifically lighter and heavier oils are said to occur. It is claimed that an artificial cajeput oil is often pre- VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 99 pared from camphor and rosemary oil, the green color being obtained by distillation with milfoil. The presence of camphor may be readily determined by thoroughly triturating a few drops of the oil with sugar and then dissolving in water, whereby the particles of camphor separate in the form of white flakes upon the surface. Cajeput oil is frequently adulterated with oil of tur- pentine and rosemary oil. Such adulteration is recog- nized by pure cajeput oil dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per cent, alcohol, which is not the case with the other two oils. Camomile or chamomile oil (oleum anthemidis). Two varieties of oil of camomile are found in commerce, one green and the other blue. The first is derived from the flowers of the genuine or Roman camomile (Anthemis nobilis) and the blue from the common variety (^Matri- caria chamomila). The last oil is the one chiefly used in the manufacture of perfumery and in medicine. Bluv camomile oil is generally obtained by distillation. In distilling, metal Florentine flasks should be used, as the oil adheres tenaciously to glass vessels and the distil- late has to be treated with ether. The pure oil has a beautiful blue color, and on heating forms blue vapors. It has a penetrating odor which only by strong dilution becomes similar to that of camomile. By storing in the light and the simultaneous presence of air, the oil turns green ; later on, brown, and is finally converted into a thickly-fluid, brownish mass. Green camomile oil from the genuine or Roman camo- mile possesses an agreeable odor of fresh lemons ; it is more seldom used than the other. 100 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. On account of the slight yield obtained from the flowers, camomile oil is rather expensive. Caraway oil (oleum carui) is obtained by distillation from the seeds of the well-known aromatic plant Carum carui, or the caraway, natural order Umbelliferce. In a fresh, purified state the oil is colorless, very thinly-fluid and possesses a pungent taste. The oil prepared from cleansed Dutch seed is best liked, while that distilled from Norwegian or Tyrolese seed is not much in demand, its taste and odor not being so pure on account of the many impurities mixed with these kinds of seed. Caraway oil consists mainly of a terpene, C, H 16 , called carvene, specific gravity 0.870, and of carvol, spe- cific gravity 0.960. The richer the oil in carvol, the higher its specific gravity. Good caraway oil should have a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.910. The carvol being the actual bearer of the aroma, the value of the oil exclusively depends on the content of it. In the better varieties of oil, the content of carvol amounts to from 45 to 50 per cent., while poorer qualities generally contain only from 40 to 42 per cent. The carvol and carvene are now frequently separated by fractional dis- tillation. The carvol, which has three times as strong an odor and taste as the carvene, dissolves with much greater facility in alcohol. The carvene being offered at very low prices might be suitable for perfuming cheap soaps. Caraway oil obtained by distillation from the plant has a less agreeable odor than that from the seed, and possesses an acrid resinous taste. The purity of caraway oil is recognized by its dissolv- ing clear in equal parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. If such VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 101 is not the case, the oil contains either an admixture of oil of turpentine or does not possess the full normal content of carvol. Pure caraway oil does not detonate with iodine, which is the case with oil containing oil of turpentine. Caraway oil is chiefly used for perfuming soap ; for handkerchief perfumes it is not suitable. Cedar oil (oleum cedri) is obtained by distillation from the shavings of the wood of the American or Virginia cedar (Juniperus virginiana). For the distillation of oil the waste falling off in the manufacture of lead-pencils is almost exclusively used. It yields about 2 to 3 per cent, of oil. The oil is thinly-fluid, of specific gravity 0.9622, of a greenish color, and an agreeable but not very penetrating odor. It is a mixture of a terpene, boiling at about 540 F., and of a hydrocarbon. The latter, which is called cidrin, forms the fluid portion of the oil. It has a specific gravity of 0.984, and boils at about 459 F. Cedar oil is extensively used in the manufacture of toilet soap, it serving as the basis for other perfumes. Care must, however, be taken that its odor does not preponderate, as in such case it readily produces an un- pleasant effect. The oil being cheap, adulteration is scarcely to be feared. A volatile oil is also obtained by distillation from the leaves of the Juniperus virginiana. In odor it resembles savin oil, and is unfit for perfuming purposes. Cherry-laurel oil (oleum laurocerasi) is the volatile oil, which contains prussic acid, obtained from the leaves of the cherry-laurel (Prunus laurocemsus, L.). Like bitter almonds, the leaves contain some amygdalin. Hence 102 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. they are macerated with water and allowed to stand in a warm place for 24 hours. By subsequent distillation a volatile oil is obtained which closely resembles oil of bitter almonds, but differs in some respects. It is color- less or yellowish, rarely reddish, and of specific gravity 1.05 to 1.06. In its behavior towards air, solvents, and reagents, it does not essentially differ from oil of bitter almonds.* To detect oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil, Enrico Pega adds some alcohol to the oil to be tested and then mixes it with some alcoholic potash lye and a few drops of ferric chloride solution. After standing for a few hours the mixture is shaken and distilled. A small portion of the oil distilling over is freed from water, poured upon a few small pieces of pure caustic potash in a test-tube, and heated over a lamp. If the sample is pure it remains colorless ; in the presence of oil of mirbane it acquires a dark coloration in consequence of the formation of nitrobenzide and aniline, a few drops of calcium chloride solution brought into the mixture producing, for this reason, a violet coloration. Cherry laurel oil is but seldom used for perfuming purposes. Cinnamon oils. There are four different kinds of this oil, viz., Ceylon cinnamon oil, cassia oil, cinnamon root oil, and oil of cinnamon leaves. Though the first two are very much alike, the Ceylon oil is considered the best. Ceylon cinnamon oil (oleum cinnamoni ceylonici). Formerly this oil was exclusively distilled from chips * Compare Kremel's observations, p. 91. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PEEFUMERY. 103 and waste of the genuine cinnamon bark of the monum ceylonicum, Nees, and came into commerce from Ceylon. However, the fabrication of the oil from cin- namon waste or chips is now extensively carried on in Germany, and this oil, being prepared with the assist- ance of more perfect apparatus, has almost entirely sup- planted that exported from Ceylon. When fresh, the Ceylon oil is colorless, but when stored for some time it becomes first golden yellow and later on brownish. It is thickly-fluid and heavier than water, its specific gravity being 1.060 to 1.090. It has an agreeable, aromatic odor and a biting but pure, sweet taste. Its principal constituent is cinnamaldehyde (C 9 H 8 O), and it contains, besides, 4 to 8 per cent, of eugenol. The presence of the latter in cinnamon oil may be established by shaking with 15 per cent, soda- solution, whereby the eugenol is dissolved, and decom- posing the aqueous solution with hydrochloric acid. The eugenol separated thereby gives in alcoholic solu- tion, when compounded with a trace of ferric chloride, a beautiful blue color. Cassia oil (oleum cassice). In China and Cochin China this oil is obtained by distillation from the bark, unripe fruits, buds, and other waste of the Cinnamonum cassia or Cinnamonum aromativum, Nees, a tree indigenous to those countries. It has a pale yellow color, which in time becomes brown. It is thickly-fluid, of specific gravity 1.05 to 1.07, and possesses a sweet taste with an acrid after-taste. Like cinnamon oil, it consists chiefly of cinnamaldehyde, but contains no eugenol, and hence can be readily distinguished from Ceylon oil by 104 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. the above-mentioned reaction. One part of pure cassia oil dissolves in two parts of 80 per cent, alcohol. Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves. Neither of these oils contains cinuamaldehyde, but abundant quantities of eugenol, the root oil as much as 50 to 70 per cent. The root oil is quite limpid and has an agreeable odor of cinnamon and cloves. The leaf oil is thickly-fluid, of the consistency of castor oil. The Ceylon oil is frequently adulterated with cassia oil. Such adulteration is very difficult to detect, and can only be recognized by experts by the odor and taste. The quality of cassia oil is recognized by the taste and odor, especially on heating, and the high specific gravity, in consequence of which the oil sinks in water. Accord- ing to Hager, cassia oil is frequently adulterated with oil of cloves. This is, however, scarcely probable, the price of oil of cloves being, on an average, higher than that of cassia oil. The latter, however, is frequently adulterated with cheaper thickly-fluid volatile oils, es- pecially with cedar oil. In this case the oil does not dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol. The value of cassia oil is dependent on its contents of cinnamaldehyde. Hence, the establishment of its actual value requires a quantitative determination of its contents of cinnamaldehyde, which unfortunately pre- sents great difficulties. For this purpose Schimmel & Co. proceed indirectly as follows : 75 grammes of cassia oil in a capacious boiling flask are mixed with 300 grammes of a boiling-hot 30 per cent, solution of acid sodium sulphite, whereby cinnamaldehyde-sodium sul- phite is immediately separated. The whole is then vigorously agitated and alloNved to rest for a short time. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 105 (With oils rich in aldehyde considerable heating gener- ally takes place, which must eventually be moderated by the addition of cold water.) Next add about 200 grammes of hot water and heat the whole, with frequent shaking, in the water-bath until the combination of the aldehyde with the acid-sodium sulphite is completely dissolved, and the non-aldehydes in the form of an oily layer float upon the solution of the aldehyde salt. Now allow the whole to cool, then shake twice with ether ; first, with about 200 cubic centimeters, and then with 100 ; combine the ethereal extracts of the non-aldehydes separated by means of a separatory funnel, and filter them into a capacious, previously-weighed beaker pro- vided with a platinum wire, the lower end of which is bent in the form of a spiral. Now evaporate the ether as much as possible, by placing the beaker in hot water. When by swinging the beaker the remaining fluid no longer foams up, allow to cool off and weigh. Now return the beaker-glass to the water-bath for ten minutes, weigh again after cooling, and repeat the operation until the difference between two weighings does not amount to more than 0.3 gramme at the utmost. The weighing previous to the last is taken as the correct one.* The weight of the non-aldehydes thus obtained is deducted from the cassia oil used, the difference giving the content of cinnamaldehyde in the latter. * The manner of expelling the ether is of great influence upon the accuracy of the result. Though the non-aldehydes volatilize with difficulty, they are volatile, and hence the ether must be quickly expelled, and the beaker not allowed to stand longer upon the water-bath than necessary for the evaporation of the ether. 106 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. For example : Used 79.71 grammes of oil. First weighing of the beaker after evaporating the ether 147.55 grammes Second " " " " " " 146.84 Third " " " " " " 146.58 " Tare of the beaker .... 128.34 " Hence non-aldehydes in the oil . . 146.84 grammes. . 128.34 = 18.50 grammes. Calculated to per cent., 23.1 per cent. 100 23.1 = 76.9 per cent, cinnamaldehyde. By accurately following the directions given, the dif- ference between two controlling determinations will be only a few tenths per cent., seldom as much as 1 per cent. For practical purposes, for which alone this method is intended, this is more than sufficient. According to the reports of Schimmel & Co., all the cassia oil brought into commerce from China was for a considerable time adulterated with resin and petroleum, they haying found as much as 30 per cent, of resin in the oil. Such adulteration can be established by the determination of the specific gravity and distilling the oil. Good cassia oil should show a specific gravity of 1.05 to 1.07 at 59 F., and by distillation 90 per cent, of pure cassia oil must pass over. The residue should not solidify after cooling and acquire the character of a brittle resin ; it must remain at least thickly-fluid, and under no conditions amount to more than 10 per cent. Citron oil (oleum citri), from the peel of the fruit of Citrus medica or the citron tree. The oil is prepared in a similar manner to that of oil of bergamot, either by expression or distillation, the latter process yielding more and purer oil. Rectified citron oil is colorless, of an agreeable pene- VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 107 trating odor and acrid taste, and very sensitive to light and air. By exposure to light it turns yellow, and if air be admitted at the same time, it is first converted into a fluid which, on account of its content of ozone, pos- sesses strong bleaching powers. The oil at the same time acquires a disagreeable odor, resembling that of oil of turpentine, and is finally converted into a resinous mass. Citron oil is frequently adulterated with oil of orange and sometimes with oil of bergamot. These adultera- tions are readily detected by an experienced person by the odor, this being in fact the best guide. The spe- cific gravity of citron oil is 0.850 at 59 F. ; it boils at from 332.6 to 343.4 F. and congeals at 4 F. Citronella oil (oleum citronellce) is chiefly distilled in Ceylon from the lemon grass, 'Andropogon Nardus, L. It is quite limpid, of a greenish-yellow to brown color, and has an odor resembling that of genuine citron oil. Its specific gravity is 0.896 at 59 F., and it boils at from 392 to 410 F. Of the various oils reaching the market that with the trade-mark " Fisher" is most in demand, it being distinguished by special purity. Edward Kremers has found in citronella oil an alde- hyde, C 7 H ]4 O, a terpene, C 10 H 16 , citronellol, which is isomeric with borneol ; further, acetic acid and valerianic acid. The Indian distillers, it is claimed, adulterate the citrouella oil with petroleum, an addition up to 25 per cent, being not uncommon. According to experiments by Schimmel & Co., pure citronella oil must give a clear solution, when 1 part of the oil is vigorously shaken with 10 parts of 80 per 108 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. cent, alcohol. If, in executing the test, the kind of tur- bidity is observed, and whether the portion insoluble in alcohol separates, after standing, upon the surface or on the bottom of the fluid, and further, if the above- mentioned quantity of alcohol is not added at one time, but at first only 1 or 2 parts of it, a conclusion may be drawn as to the kind and quantity of the adulterant. Petroleum causes a milky-white turbidity, while in the presence of fat oil the mixture becomes turbid, but not actually milky. As a rule, fat oil deposits, after standing, on the bottom, while petroleum floats upon the surface of the fluid. Citronella oil adulterated with fat oil does not dissolve in 1 to 2 parts nor in 10 parts of 80 per cent, alcohol, while oil adulterated with not too large a quantity of petroleum, gives a clear solution with 1 to 2 parts. The determination of the specific gravity may also serve for the detection of adulterations. This holds good, however, only for petroleum, which reduces the specific gravity, an addition of fat oil pro- ducing no deviation in this respect. The specific gravity of the oil should not be below 0.895 at 59 F. Citronella oil is much used for perfuming cheap hair oils and toilet soaps ; it is the chief constituent of all perfumes for honey-soaps. In the American soap in- dustry it is extensively used, the yearly consumption being estimated at 1J million ounces. Cloves, oil of (oleum caryophylli), is obtained by dis- tillation with steam, or by extraction from the cloves of commerce, which are the dried unexpanded flower buds of Caryophyllus aromaticus, L., or the clove tree. Oil of cloves, when fresh, is almost colorless, but on expo- sure to air acquires a brownish coloration and a thickly VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 109 fluid consistency. It has the aromatic taste and odor of cloves, and a specific gravity of 1.300 to 1.065. It fre- quently shows a slightly acid reaction, boils at 482 F., and congeals at 4 F. It is readily soluble in alcohol, ether, and strong acetic acid. It consists of a terpene (C IO H 16 ) and eugenol (C 10 H 12 O 2 ), the odor of the oil being due to the latter. The terpene has a specific gravity of 0.918, and in distilling passes over first (light oil of cloves). The eugenol, when fresh, is colorless, has the odor and taste of cloves, a specific gravity of 1.063 at 65 F., boils at 487.4 F., is insoluble in water and glycerin, but soluble in alcohol, ether and glacial acetic acid. Its alcoholic solution is colored magnifi- cently blue by ferric chloride. If in an alkaline solution it is oxydized with potassium permanganate, vanillin being formed. An inferior quality of oil is obtained from the stems of the clove buds. It dissolves with greater difficulty than the oil prepared from the buds, and has a darker red-brown color. To test the value of oil of cloves, introduce, according to Stohman, into a graduated glass cylinder 10 volumes ether, 10 oil of cloves, and 30 of a 10-per cent, soda solution. After vigorous shaking, the eugenol dissolves ; the increase in volume of the aqueous fluid is then pro- portional to the quantity of eugenol present. For more exact determinations, dissolve a weighed quantity of oil, repeatedly shake the aqueous fluid with ether to re- move the terpene, then decompose the eugenol-sodium with dilute sulphuric acid, dissolve the separated eugenol in ether and weigh after evaporating the ethereal fluid. 110 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Good oil of cloves does not contain less than 80 per cent, of eugenol, and frequently 90 per cent, or more. Oil of cloves is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil and cedar oil. Such adulteration is recognized by the oil not forming a clear solution in every proportion with alcohol, as is the case with pure oil of cloves. Oil of cloves is much used for perfuming purposes. Eucalyptus oil (oleum eucalypti) is obtained from the leaves of various trees of the eucalyptus family. Ac- cording to Merk two kinds of oil must be strictly kept apart : oleum eucalypti from the leaves of eucalyptus globulus and oleum eucalypti australe, the former being used in medicine, and the latter, which is considerably cheaper, chiefly for perfuming purposes. However, Piesse's opinion that eucalyptus oil, as far as its odor is concerned, does not deserve to be classed among per- fumes is undoubtedly correct. It has an odor between that of oil of turpentine and cajeput oil, and as long as perfumery is the art of sweet odors, such oil cannot be designated a perfume. When not rectified, eucalyptus oil is mostly yellowish or bluish. In a rectified state it is colorless, clear, limpid, lighter than water, of a strong odor, and acrid taste. The oil from eucalyptus globulus has a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.925, and dissolves in every pro- portion in 90 per cent, alcohol. It is optically inactive or turns the plane of polarization slightly to the right. On standing with sodium it acquires a yellowish colora- tion, and does not detonate with iodine. The oil from eucalyptus australe has a specific gravity of 0.86 to 0.87, and is but sparingly soluble in 90 per cent, alcohol, so that even a solution prepared in the proportion of 1 : 15 VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. Ill is turbid. It turns the plane of polarization strongly to the left ; acquires, on standing with sodium, a red colora- tion, and detonates with iodine. Eucalyptus oil consists of eucalyptol and eucalyptene, and perhaps other hydrocarbons. The content of the first, on which depends the medicinal value of the oil, varies very much in the oils from the different species of eucalyptus, the oil from some species, it is said, con- taining no eucalyptol whatever. Eucalyptol (C 24 H 20 O 2 ) is limpid, colorless, turns the plane of polarization, has a specific gravity of 0.905, and boils at 347 F. Its vapor mixed with air has an agreeable, refreshing taste, and its dilute solutions re- mind one of roses. Eucalyptene (C 24 H 18 ) has a specific gravity of 0.836, and boils at 329 F. Fennel oil (oleum fceniculi) is derived by distillation from the fruits of Foeniculum vulgare, Gaertner. Large quantities of it are produced in Saxony, and also in Galicea. It is quite colorless, limpid, of specific gravity 0.940 to 0.970 and, with a full content of stear- optene, possesses a nauseous sweet taste and odor. It contains 60 to 70 per cent, of anethol and congeals at from 41 to 50 F. to a crystalline mass. The leaves of the plant also contain a volatile oil, which is, how- ever, less valued than the seed-oil. Good fennel oil should dissolve clear in 1 to 2 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. Direct adulterations of this oil do not occur, but the stearoptene is frequently with- drawn by fractional distillation whereby the oil loses much in value. Such oil freed from stearoptene does not congeal, has a more bitter than sweet taste and does not dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol. 112 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. In perfumery fennel oil is but little used ; sometimes in connection with other volatile oils for perfuming soaps. Geranium oil, palmaroso oil, Turkish geranium oil is obtained from Andropogon Pachnodes. It is yellowish, limpid, of specific gravity 0.890 at 59 F v possesses a very agreeable rose-like odor resembling that of ge- ranium oils from Pelargonium radula, Alton, and for this reason is generally designated as Turkish geranium oil. The odor of the oil is improved by shaking it with water containing lemon juice, any content of copper being thereby removed. The washed oil is then brought into shallow dishes and exposed for two or three weeks to the sun, whereby its odor becomes still more like that of rose oil. The oil thus prepared is much used for adulterating rose oil. Turkish geranium oil is also much used for the adulteration of genuine geranium oil and is itself adulterated with oil of turpentine. It is extensively employed in perfumery, especially for per- fuming hair oils and pomades, and in conjunction with geranium oils for rose soap. East Indian geranium oil is obtained, chiefly in the Presidency of Bombay, from Andropogon Schoenantus, L. It is greenish-yellow to yellow-brown, has a spe- cific gravity of 0.906 at 59 F., and consists mainly of geraniol (C 10 H 18 O). Its odor is rose-like, though modi- fied by a lemon-like odor. It is principally used for perfuming cheaper articles. French and African geranium oils (oleum geranii) are obtained by distillation with water from the leaves of various species of pelargonium. Many different kinds of this oil are found in commerce. The finest and most VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 113 expensive are the Spanish and French geranium oils, so- called rose, which are distinguished by their fine odor, closely resembling that of rose oil. They are derived from Pelargonium radula, and are either yellowish, brownish, or pale green, the brownish oils being pre- ferred. It congeals at 60.8 F. and turns the plane of polarization to the right. Another good geranium oil is the African, which is chiefly prepared in Algiers from Pelargonium roseum } Wildenow, and P. odoratissimum, Alton. It closely resembles the French oil, but turns the plane of polarization to the left. French geranium oil is said to be frequently adulte- rated with fat or copaiba oil ; but geranium oil being soluble in 70 per cent, alcohol, such adulterations are readily detected. Add to 5 cubic centimeters of 70 per cent, alcohol (specific gravity 0.890) at 59 to 62.5 F., 10 drops of the oil, and shake. If a clear solution re- sults the oil is very likely unadulterated. The so-called Turkish geranium oil is frequently found mixed with cocoanut oil. To detect this, place the oil in a test-tube in ice or a cold mixture for several hours, whereby the cocoanut oil separates as a white substance. Adulterations of upward to 20 per cent, are said to frequently occur. Reliable tests to detect an adulteration of the better qualities of geranium oil with those of a lower grade do not exist, the odor being the only guide. Jasmine oil or oil of jessamine, from the flowers of Jasminium offitinale, L., and J. grandiflorum. The oil is exclusively obtained by the absorption process, and is the most prized by the perfumer. It is, however, ex- ceedingly rare on account of the enormous cost of its 114 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. production. The extract of jasmine, the " essence de jas- mine' 7 of the French manufactories, is a solution of the oil, as obtained by extraction with lard or beef suet, in strong spirit of wine. The odor of jasmine oil is so peculiar that it is without comparison, and as such cannot be imitated. Juniper oil (oleum juniperi) is obtained by distillation from the fruits of Juniperus communis, L., or juniper. The berries used for the purpose should be fully grown and fresh and bruised before being placed in the still. Unripe berries yield a smaller quantity and an oil of somewhat different properties than ripe berries. The oil obtained by distillation with steam is colorless and that by ordinary distillation yellowish, the former hav- ing a specific gravity of 0.840 to 0.860 and the latter of 0.850 to 0.900. It consists mainly of terpenes. By standing, a stearoptene is separated, which crystallizes in feathery needles from hot spirit of wine. The odor and taste of juniper oil remind one at the same time of juniper berries and oil of turpentine. Juniper oil has a great tendency to thicken ; it be- comes resinous, acid and thickly fluid, formic acid being formed. It should be kept in well-closed bottles, and protected from light. It is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine and juniper- wood oil. It may be tested by its behavior towards alcohol, as well as by the taste. A drop of the oil rubbed up with sugar, and shaken with 500 grammes of water, should not impart an acrid taste to the water. Juniper oil gives a clear solution with J part absolute alcohol ; by a larger quantity it is rendered turbid. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 115 Lavender oil (oleum lavandulce.) Large quantities of this oil are distilled in Southern France, in the neigh- borhood of Grasse and Nimes, from the flowers of lavandula officinalis, Chaixj which grows wild in that region. It is limpid, colorless, or yellowish, has a strong odor and a pungent, aromatic, somewhat bitter taste. With 90 per cent, alcohol it mixes clear in every pro- portion, boils at 320 F., and has a specific gravity of 0.876 to 0.905. It turns the plane of polarization to the left. The best French lavender oil, distilled from pure flowers only, is brought into commerce under the name, " Essence de Lavande Montblanc." It is distinguished from all other kinds, in the preparation of which more or less stems and leaves are used, by its extremely agree- able odor. Lavender is also extensively cultivated in Mitchan and Hitchin, England, and used for the preparation of an especially fine oil, the odor of which surpasses even that of the best French product. It is, however, comparatively expensive. From the leaves and flowers of lavandula spica the spike oil is obtained by distillation. It is colorless, or yellow, and in odor approaches rosemary oil more than lavender oil. Its boiling point, like that of lavender oil, is at 366.8 F., and its specific gravity 0.96. Spike oil turns the plane of polarization only slightly to the left, the deviation scarcely ever exceeding 0.8. Lavender oils are very sensitive to light and air, they becoming ozonized under their influence, and acquire an odor like turpentine. Hence they must be kept in well- closed vessels in a dark place. 116 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Oil of lavender is frequently adulterated, chiefly with alcohol, fat oils, oil of turpentine, and spike oil. To test the oil, mix a drop of it with 10 cubic centimeters of warm water, and test the odor, which should be pure and agreeably lavender-like. The taste of the vigorously agitated water should be transiently bitter aromatic. One volume of the oil should give a turbid mixture with one volume of dilute alcohol (specific gravity 0.895), but a perfectly clear one with three volumes. On shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a few grains of rosaniline it remains uncolored, but, in the presence of even a trace of alcohol, it acquires a red coloration. By mixing in a graduated cylinder equal volumes of the oil and distilled water, and shaking vigorously, the oil, after the water has settled, shows a decrease in volume if alcohol be present. The presence of fat oil can be readily recognized by bringing a drop of the oil to be tested upon filtering paper ; a grease stain is formed, which disappears neither at the ordi- nary temperature nor by heating. Adulteration with oil of turpentine is recognized by the boiling point, that of oil of turpentine being 312.8 F., and that of oil of lavender, as previously stated, 366.8 F. Spike oil should mix clear with equal parts of 90 per cent, alcohol ; the contrary would indicate adulteration with oil of turpentine. For perfumery, lavender oil is of great importance, it being much employed by itself, as well as mixed with other oils. Lemon oil (oleum limonis) is obtained by various pro- cesses from the rinds of lemons. The best and most delicately-scented oil is obtained by the so-called sponge VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 117 process in use in Southern Italy and Sicily. The rinds are soaked from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in water, to which sometimes a little soda is added. They are taken up singly in the right hand and the outer surface of each is firmly pressed against a large and rather hard-grained sponge held in the left hand and secured by a strap. Two or three sharp turns of the wrist im- part what may be called a screw-pressure to the rind, thus effectually fracturing the oil cells, the sponge ab- sorbing the contents. The sponge is constantly held over an earthen jar and occasionally squeezed into it. The fluid in the jar quickly separates into three different products the dregs or deposit of mucilaginous and cellular matter, some fruit juice, and the pure oil, which floats on the top. The latter, when bright and clear, is passed, by means of a small glass siphon, into the cans of thin copper, in which, after sealing, it is stored away for export. The above described primitive mode of fabrication furnishes the most highly prized oils of commerce ; they are called hand-pressed oils or essences preparees a Veponge. In the same manner are obtained the oils from the sweet and bitter pomegranate, the bergamotte, and mandarin orange. Another method of expressing the oil is that of the ccuelle a piquer, much used in the region about Nice. The oils obtained by this method, which are also of a very fine quality, are marked essence a Vecuelle or au zeste. The apparatus consists of a round shallow pan of copper or brass, having a receptacle for the oil at its lowest part and a lip on one side for pouring, and studded on its concavity by strong blunt spiker. The 118 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. workman takes the fruit and rolls it gently but quickly around the inside of the ecuelle ; the spikes prick the oil sacs, whereupon the oil, running down the spikes and the concavity of the pan, collects in the reservoir at the lowest part. The oil is filtered and then poured into clean glass bottles, in which the impurities are allowed to settle. In Reggio, where especially much bergamot oil is manufactured, sheet-metal bowl-like vessels, studded inside with sharp ribs, are used. Six to eight fruits are placed in the vessel. A movable lid closes the vessel, so that there is just enough space for the fruits between the lid and the bottom of the vessel. If now the lid be revolved by hand- or steam-power, the rinds of the fruit are torn apart, and the oil together with the juice runs through the sieve-bottom of the apparatus into a cylin- drical vessel where it clarifies. The third method of obtaining the oil is by expression. The grated rind is placed in hair mats, and subjected to powerful pressure by means of a screw or lever press. The process of distillation is carried on as follows : The peels, which should be from select fruit, are sprinkled with powdered salt, and a few hours afterwards sufficient water to moisten them is poured over them. A day or two afterwards more water is added, and the whole is distilled until either no more oil separates or the steam, at first purely fragrant, begins to acquire a rank and rather unpleasant smell. The oil obtained by distilla- tion is inferior to the others. Lately a combination of the ecuelle and distilling pro- cesses has been introduced by Doinenico Monfalcone, VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 119 which has given excellent results. It is shown in Fig. 20. F F is a hollow cylinder, of sheet-iron, the interior surface of which is studded with a large number of small metallic knife-points. This cylinder revolves on FIG. 20. two axles attached to it at diagonally opposite points. The cylinder having been half-charged with lemons, together with a small quantity of water, is set in motion by aid of the shafting and pulleys driven by the small steam engine. The fruits are thereby made to come in contact with the metallic lancets, and their whole surface gradually becomes punctured sufficiently to rupture the cells containing the volatile oil, which escapes. The cylinder jPjPhas double walls, the space between them being intended for the circulation of a current of steam, which is admitted to heat the water and to facilitate the extraction of the oil, while at the same time the vapors are rarefied or aspirated by the vacuum pump L. The 120 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. axles of the cylinder on both sides are hollow ; that on the side looking towards the engine is imbedded in such a manner that steam from the boiler D may be ad- mitted at will, either into the double walls of the cylin- der, or into the interior of the cylinder itself, while the hollow passage in the other axle communicates with a condensing worm, Gr, the outlet of which, H, descends into a cylindrical vessel, J, intended to receive the con- densed products, consisting of water and volatile oil. "When the apparatus is first set in motion the pump L begins to produce a vacuum during the first revolutions of the cylinder. Steam being now cautiously admitted into the double walls of the cylinder, the water is raised to boiling at a comparatively low temperature, and the vapors charged with the volatile oil pass over into the receptacle, where they separate into two layers. The product obtained by this process is claimed to be equal in quality to that obtained by mechanical means, and the yield nearly double. During the months of November to March the average yield from 1000 lemons in the factories of Palermo is 320 grammes of oil ; in those of Messina, where a better quality of fruit is employed, the yield is about 400 grammes. The same number of lemons yield about 10 gallons of juice, the collection of which is, of course, a necessary accompaniment of the manufacture of vola- tile oil. Pure oil of lemons is almost colorless and has the odor of the fruit. Its specific gravity varies between 0.8752 and 0.8785 ; it boils at 298.4 F., and is soluble in all proportions in absolute alcohol and glacial acetic acid. It contains, according to G. Bouchardat and J. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 121 Lafont, besides a little cymene, several hydrocarbons, the most abundant of which is citrene, C 10 H 16 , boiling near 352.5 F., having a rotatory power exceeding + 105, and yielding a solid optically inactive dihydrochloride. Oil of lemons is frequently adulterated with oil of tur- pentine. This may be detected, according to G. Heppe, by slowly heating the oil in a dry test-tube with a small piece of copper butyrate to about 338 F., taking care that the temperature does not exceed 356 F. The copper salt will dissolve in pure oil of lemons with a green color, while in the presence of oil of turpentine a yellow turbid mixture is obtained, reddish-yellow cuprous oxide being separated. This test is also applicable to oils of bergamot and of orange-peel. r? Lilac oil is obtained from the flowers of Syringa vul- garis, the lilac, by aqueous distillation and subsequent extraction with benzine. It is also frequently prepared by the absorption process. It is used for the most ex- pensive perfumes, and is seldom found in commerce. Limes, oil of (oleum limettce), is derived from the rind of the fruit of Citrus limetta, or lime. The oil is ob- tained in the same manner as oil of lemons, which it somewhat resembles. Its mean specific gravity is 0.8734 at 84 F. The oil made by the dcuelle process is of a decidedly yellow color, varying in intensity, being darker in the fresh product. The difference in flavor and aroma is so marked as scarcely to require any other means of distinguishing the oil made by the ecuelle process from that obtained by distillation, the first having a decided fragrant lemon smell, whilst the distilled oil is very in- ferior, frequently possessing little more than the smell of turpentine. Large quantities of oil of limes are 122 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. manufactured in Dominica, but most of the oil ex- ported from there is of an inferior quality and was formerly solely used for adulterating oil of lemons. Lately it has also been employed for scenting soaps and in the manufacture of the common essences and perfumes. Licari oil, linaloe oil, is obtained, partially in Mexico and partially in Cayenne, from the wood of the white cedar (bois de rosefemelle), Lieari canali. It is limpid, has an agreeable odor, reminding one of roses, and does not become solid at 4 F. Its specific gravity is 0.868 at 59 F., and it boils at 388.4 F. Marjoram oils. By distilling the leaves of Origanum marjorana] L., the marjoram oil (oleum marjorance) is ob- tained. It is yellowish or green-yellowish, but becomes reddish-brown by age. If badly kept it finally becomes thickly-fluid and sticky, sometimes depositing a reddish stearoptene. The odor of marjoram oil is less agreeable than that of the plant, and the taste peculiar, bitter, cooling. The oil dissolves readily in 90 per cent, alcohol, and when mixed with equal parts of it yields a clear solution. Its specific gravity is 0.89 to 0.91. It should be kept in entirely filled, well-closed bottles in a shady place. On coming in contact with air, it absorbs oxygen with avidity and forms a white, odorless, crystal- line mass. From Origanum vulgare, L., the ordinary marjoram oil (oleum origani vulgaris) is obtained. It is yellowish or reddish, limpid, of specific gravity 0.90 to 0.95, and has a camphor-like odor. Spanish marjoram (oleum origani cretici) is obtained by distillation from the flowering plants of several varieties of marjoram (Or. creticum, Or. hirtum, Or. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 123 smyrnceum). It is brought into commerce from Trieste, Smyrna, Salonica, and other Mediterranean seaports. The oil exported from France appears to be derived from another variety of marjoram ; at least it shows a different behavior and approaches more the ordinary marjoram oil. The genuine oil is thickly-fluid, generally yellow-brown ; of specific gravity 0.95 to 0.97 ; has a strong, aromatic odor, and produces upon the tongue a sharp continued burning. It dissolves in equal parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. It is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil, the presence of which can be recognized by the oil dissolving with greater difficulty. The marjoram oils are but little used for perfuming purposes. Mignonette oil (oleum resedoz). The well-known mignonette, Reseda odoratissima, yields a thick yel- lowish oil, either by maceration and absorption, or by extraction with ether or petroleum-ether. It has a pene- trating, disagreeable odor, which can only be rendered agreeable by greatly diluting the oil. In gathering the flowers care must be had not to mix them with leaves, as this spoils the odor of the oil. Myrrh oil (oleum myrthce) is obtained from the leaves of Myrtus communis, L. It is yellowish, dextrorotatory, of specific gravity 0.910 at 60.8 F., and commences to boil at 320 F. As its principal constituents, Jahns has established a terpene (C 10 H 16 ), boiling at from 316.4 to 320 F., and turning the plane of polarization to the right, and cineol (C 10 H 16 O), which boils at 348.8 F. Besides these principal constituents there seems to be present a very small quantity of a camphor, correspond- ing very likely to the formula C 10 H 16 O. Myrtol, which 124 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. was formerly supposed to exist in myrtle oil, lias been found to be a mixture of the dextrorotatory terpene and of cineol. Nutmeg oils. From mace, the fresh aril of the nutmeg (Mynstioa fragrans, Houtt, natural order Myristicacece), mace oil (oleum macidis), is obtained by distillation. It is straw-yellow or yellowish, later on yellow-reddish, clear, somewhat thickly-fluid, of a strong odor resembling that of mace, and a taste at first mild, but later on pungent and aromatic. It mixes clear in every proportion with absolute alcohol, but of 90 per cent, alcohol, 5 to 6 volumes are required for a clear solution. The specific gravity of the oil varies from 0.87 to 0.92. With iodine it detonates, vapors being emitted. The oil obtained from dried mace has a less agreeable odor. The oil is frequently adulterated with tincture of nut- meg prepared with absolute alcohol. Such an adultera- tion, as well as any content of alcohol, is recognized by shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a grain of rosaniline. In the presence of alcohol the oil acquires a red coloration, while pure oil remains uncolored. From the nutmegs, the seed of Myristica fragrans, freed from the seed-coat and aril, a volatile oil (oleum nucistce cethereum) is also obtained by distillation. It is generally yellowish, seldom colorless, somewhat thickly-fluid and has the odor and taste of nutmegs. It is readily soluble in alcohol and ether and of specific gravity, 0.93 to 0.95. It consists of two oils, one speci- fically lighter and fluid, and the other heavy and crystal- line. On standing it deposits a stearoptene, called myristicin. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 125 The nutmeg oils are but seldom used in perfumery. Opopanax oil is obtained from opopanax.* It is of gold-yellow color and an agreeable balsamic odor re- minding one somewhat of myrrh. Its specific gravity is 0.9016, and it boils between 392 and 572 F. On account of its strength, the oil must be very care- fully handled in perfuming, but if used in the correct proportion it is very advantageous. Orange-peel oil, also called Portugal oil or essence of Portugal, is obtained in Italy from the fresh peels of the orange, the fruit of Citrus vulgaris, Eisso. It is pre- pared in a manner similar to that of oil of lemons (which see). In commerce a distinction is made between the Messina oil, which is of inferior quality, and the Calabria oil, which is of a better quality. The Messina oil has a yellow color, frequently not much darker than that of oil of lemons, while the color of Calabria oil is dark yel- low, nearly brown. The oil prepared from the peels of the bitter orange (Citrus bigaradia, Duhamel), is of the same color as the sweet Messina oil. It is more used in the preparation of liqueurs than for perfuming. Orange-peel oils are limpid and have a specific gravity of 0.819 to 0.9. One part of orange-peel oil should, ac- cording to its age, dissolve clear in 5 to 10 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. Very similar to orange-peel oil, though differing somewhat in odor, is the mandarin oil obtained from the fresh peels of the mandarin orange, the fruit of Citrus sinensis. It is brought into commerce from Keggio and is said to form a constituent of the genuine * See later on under " Balsams and Resins." 126 MANUFACTURE OF PEEFUMERY. essbouquet. It has a specific gravity of 0.852 at 5^ and is dextrorotatory. While from the peels the volatile oil is but s .^m obtained by distillation, this process is exclusively used for gaining volatile oils from the flowers, leaves, and young branches. In this connection two kinds of vola- tile oil have chiefly to be considered, viz : orange-flower oil and petit-grain oil. Orange-flower oil or neroli oil (oleum florum aurantii ; ol. neroli; ol. naphce) is obtained by distillation from the flowers of the bitter orange ; while the flowers of the sweet orange yield the so-called neroli-Portugal oil, which is far inferior to the other. On the French Riviera, the orange is especially cul- tivated for obtaining blossoms and leaves for distilling purposes. At Cannes, Le Cannet, Golfe-Juan, Val- lauris, Biot, Vence, Le Bar, Antibes, Le Cap, Nice, and Mentone, the bitter orange, whose flowers are very numerous and especially suitable for perfumery, is chiefly cultivated. Cannes and Le Cannet alone pos- sess 150,000 to 160,000 such trees, and Golfe-Juan and Vallauris 200,000. The flowers harvested in Golfe-Juan amount to about 700,000 Ibs., in Le Cannet to about 330,000 Ibs., at Cannes to about 130,000 Ibs., and in Antibes, Mentone, and Nice to about 260,000 Ibs. f One orange tree yields, according to its age, from 2 to \17 Ibs. of flowers. The distillation of neroli oil has also been lately commenced in Sicily and Calabria, but as far as quality is concerned, the oil thus far brought into commerce cannot compete with the French oil. Oil of orange flowers is at first nearly colorless or straw-yellow, but becomes reddish-yellow when kept for VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 127 > time. In a clear glass it opalizes bluish. It is I and has a slightly bitter taste and a strong but vc^j. delicious odor. Its specific gravity varies between 0.85 and 0.90. It is but sparingly soluble in water, but imparts to the latter an agreeable odor; the solution is colored red by sulphuric acid. With 1 to 2 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol, the oil gives a clear solution which becomes turbid by a further addition of alcohol and, after standing quietly, a flaky separation of stearop- tene is observed. If not carefully kept the oil becomes darker and even acquires a disagreeable odor. By recti- fication with water oil thus spoiled can be restored. With sodium the oil does not evolve hydrogen gas ; it detonates with iodine. Of the various oils of orange blossoms occurring in commerce " Neroli petale" is the best. JNeroli oil being a very expensive oil is exposed to many adulterations. Mierzinski even asserts that no genuine unadulterated neroli oil occurs in commerce, be- cause it is a well-known fact that what is sold as genuine, pure neroli oil, consists on an average off genuine neroli oil, -| oil of bergamot, and -| petit-grain oil. Further- more, it is no secret that besides the flowers of all kinds of Aurantiacece, unripe fruits or fresh peels of ripe fruits and even young shoots of the branches and leaves are subjected to distillation. This assertion perhaps goes too far, but nevertheless it is advisable to procure the oil only from a thoroughly reliable firm. A very frequent adulteration consists in an addition of petit-grain oil. Such an addition can only be recog- nized by the taste and odor. For this purpose add to 3 drops of oil in a small bottle 10 grammes of distilled 128 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. water, and, after shaking vigorously, test as to the odor and taste. According to Chevalier, pour 1 or 2 drops of the oil upon sugar and stir the latter in water; if the oil is not genuine the water acquires a bitter taste. Hager recommends the following test : Mix 3 drops of the oil in a test-tube with 40 to 50 drops of alcohol ; add, after complete solution, about J the volume of the solu- tion of concentrated sulphuric acid, and effect mixture by careful shaking. Pure oil gives a turbid, reddish, dark-brown mixture (with old oil, dark brown) ; almost all other oils, which may be substituted, give paler-colored (reddish, red, or ocher-color) mixtures ; or, in case the genuine oil is adulterated with non-genuine, the mixture exhibits a considerably less dark-color. When this test has been several times executed with genuine oil, no room for doubt is left. * If the mixture be diluted with four times its volume of water, it becomes yellowish and milky. The odor of orange flowers is, according to Soubeiran, due to two volatile oils, of which the one having the most delicious odor is soluble in water. The other volatile oil, of which the neroli oil of commerce chiefly consists, is sparingly soluble in water, and does not pos- sess such a delicious odor. This is the reason why good orange-flower water cannot be prepared by saturating water with neroli oil. The genuine orange-flower water is obtained as a by-product in distilling the oil. Neroli oil is much used for the finer perfumes, it being especially a necessary constitutent of eau de Cologne. It has to be carefully protected from air and light. For perfuming purposes it is only sufficiently ripe after having been stored for at least one year. If, however, VOLATILE OILS USED IX PERFUMERY. 129 it becomes too old, it inclines towards rancidity, which may be prevented by compounding it with an equal volume of fine spirit. Portugal oil being of inferior quality can only be used for lower grade products. Petit grain oil (oleum petit grain) is obtained by dis- tillation from the leaves, young shoots and unripe fruits of different Aurantiacece. The best oil is that distilled from the leaves of the bitter orange, it possessing an odor similar to that of neroli oil, but, of course, not so fine. Southern France was formerly the chief place for the production of this oil, but considerable quantities of it are now manufactured in Paraguay, and the oil at pre- sent brought from there into commerce being of quite a good quality and considerably cheaper than the French oil, has almost entirely supplanted the latter. Om-s root, oil of (oleum iridis), is obtained by distilla- tion with steam from the rhizomes of Iris florentina, which is cultivated in Southern France, Dalmatia, and other regions. It has a yellow color and, at an ordi- nary temperature, a quite solid consistency like butter or wax, so that it can be rendered fluid only by heating. It consists chiefly of a rigid odorless body to which the liquid odoriferous oil adheres. The solid portion was formerly designated orris-stearoptene ; according to Flueckiger it is, however, myristic acid. Oil of orris root is one of the oils which keep for years without suffering injury. It is recommended to keep it in stock in alcoholic solution so that the myristic acid contained in it may to a certain degree be etherized, and cannot injuriously affect the odoriferous principle. Oil of orris root serves as a substitute and for strengthening the natural odor of violets. It can, how- 9 130 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. ever, be employed only for very fine expensive perfu- mery since, on account of the very slight yield from the root (from 1000 parts J to j part of oil), its price is very high, generally exceeding that of rose oil. An admixture of other volatile oils of less value would render the oil fluid at the ordinary temperature. Patchouli oil. By the name of patchouli are known, according to L. Wray, Jr., the leaves of Pogostemon patchouli, Pellet, natural order Labiatce, indigenous to the East Indies, and known and used for centuries in the various regions of China, Assam, and the Malayan Islands. Most of the patchouli comes from the East Indies. Before exportation it is sorted into three quali- ties : 1. Selected, consisting of leaves only. 2. Mixed, leaves with slight peduncles and few stems. 3. Stalky leaves. The best quality occurs seldom in commerce since the picking of the leaves does not cover the expense. According to Wray, the leaves are intentionally mixed Avith those of the ruku (ocimum basilicum, L.), an herb indigenous to the Malayan Islands. The leaves of the latter are broader than those of pogostemon patchouli, and the stalks thinner and round. Seed-capsules are also frequently found among the leaves, though patch- ouli seldom flowers and bears seeds. In Europe, patchouli has been an article of commerce since 1841. In the Orient it is highly esteemed as a perfume. The Arabs even ascribe remedial properties to it, and it is customary with them to fill their pillows with the leaves to protect them from infection and pro- long their lives. The peculiar, penetrating, though not exactly agree- able, odor of patchouli leaves, is due to a volatile oil, of VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 131 which they contain 1.5 to 2 per cent. In the Orient this oil has for many years been obtained by distillation. In the Penang market two kinds of oil, one green and the other gold-brown, are distinguished. Though both are sold at the same price, there is a greater de- mand for the green oil. According to the statements of the distillers, the brown oil is derived from the leaves of old plants and the green oil from the leaves of young plants. It would seem, however, that the color is de- pendent on the soil upon which the plants are grown, as well as upon atmospheric influences. When ruku is distilled with patchouli leaves, the oil is yellow and thickly-fluid. In Germany, the oil is now distilled from imported leaves. It is thickly-fluid, of a brown color, and, in an undiluted state, possesses a disagreeable, almost musty odor. However, when sufficiently diluted and suitably mixed with other volatile oils, the odor is far more agreeable, and for this reason it has for some time played an important part in the manufacture of per- fumery. It has the advantage of being very yielding and lasting, but, on the other hand, possesses the disad- vantage of not combining with other perfumes, so that its odor is always perceptible. It should always be used in very small quantities or much diluted. In commerce Penang oil and French oil are distin- guished, the first having a specific gravity of 0.959 and the latter of 1.012. When kept for any length of time the oil deposits patchouli-camphor (C^H^O) in pris- matic crystals of 1.045 specific gravity and melting at 127 to 129 F. These crystals have a peculiar, very lasting odor. 132 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Patchouli oil is soluble in equal parts of 90 per cent, alcohol, the contrary indicating that it is not pure. It is chiefly adulterated with cedar oil. Peppermint oil. The Meniha family furnishes com- merce with three oils differing essentially from each other oil of curled mint, peppermint oil, and poley oil. Oil of curled mint (oleum menthce crispce) is separated by distillation with water from the leaves of Mentha crispa, Linn. It is limpid, yellowish, sometimes green- ish ; in time it becomes darker and more thickly-fluid. Its specific gravity varies between 0.890 and 0.965. It has a strong odor of curled mint and a pungent, some- what cooling, slightly bitterish taste. It is soluble in all proportions in 90 per cent, alcohol. In commerce a distinction is made between German and American oil of curled mint, the latter generally containing oil of turpentine and oil of sassafras. Odor, taste, and the alcohol test suffice for the determination of the quality of the oil. Oil of curled mint contains a terpene, C 10 H, 6 , arid a body isomeric with carvol, the carvol of curled mint, C 10 H 14 O. Its specific gravity, boiling point and chemi- cal properties are the same as those of the carvol of cara- way oil, but it differs from it by its odor and turning the plane of polarization to the opposite direction. In con- junction with other volatile oils, oil of curley mint is sometimes used for perfuming soaps. Peppermint oil (oleum menthce piperitce) is obtained from the fresh flowering peppermint, Mentha piperitaj natural order Labiatce. In commerce, German, English, American and Japanese peppermint oils are distin- guished. As regards fineness, the German oil is inferior VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 133 to the Eoglish and better kinds of American oils, but superior to the Japanese. The best and most expensive oil is the English so-called " Mitcham oil of peppermint," which dissolves in 50 parts of 50 per cent, spirit of wine and possesses a fine, pure taste, it being for this reason preferred by distillers for the fabrication of liqueurs. For perfuming purposes, however, the American as well as the German oils are very suitable. Of American oils that of H. G. Hotchkiss, L. B. Hotchkiss, Hale & Par- shall, and Fritzsche Bros, enjoy a high reputation. The Japanese oil is distinguished from the rest by a peculiar train-oil-like odor and taste, and is in but little demand. Crude oil of peppermint is yellowish to greenish and contains much mucus ; it has therefore to be subjected to another distillation with water. The rectified oil is clear as water, limpid, of a strong but pleasant odor and a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.902. Old oil thickens and then shows an acid reaction. The greater portion of the oil congeals at the freezing point of water ; many kinds, however, requiring but slight cooling in order to become solid. The solid portion of the oil, Menthol, (C 10 H 12 ,H 2 O) is a colorless, finely crystallized body with an intense odor of peppermint. It melts at 107.6 F., is quite fluid at an ordinary temperature and boils at 413.6 F. Menthol is found in all oils of peppermint most abundantly in the Japanese oil, which contains from 50 to 55 per cent, of it. Mitcham oil is also very rich in menthol, it containing from 40 to 45 per cent., while the American oil contains only from 20 to 25 per cent. American, German and English oils of peppermint may be distinguished as follows : By adding to 5 or 6 134 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. drops of the oil, 25 to 30 drops of pure white concen- trated sulphuric acid, American oil of peppermint becomes heated and emits vapors, the mixture acquiring a dark brownish red coloration. After mixing with 8 to 10 cubic centimeters of 90 per cent, alcohol, the fluid becomes turbid, pale yellowish brown, or reddish brown, and on boiling clear pale brown. When mixed with sulphuric acid, German oil of peppermint becomes heated without emitting vapors, becomes yellowish red, not very dark, and turbid. After diluting with alcohol, the fluid becomes turbid and yellowish red, and on boiling somewhat more transparent and currant-red. English oil of peppermint treated in the same manner as the others with sulphuric acid becomes very slightly heated without any emission of vapor. After diluting with alcohol, it becomes clear and raspberry red. As adulterants of peppermint oil are mentioned : fat oils, alcohol, oil of turpentine, copaiba oil, mustard oil, and ginger oil. The most frequent adulteration is an admixture of oil of turpentine. It is recognized by the oil not dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per cent, alcohol, as is the case with the pure product. To detect the presence of copaiba oil, mix 5 drops of the oil to be tested with 15 to 20 drops of fuming nitric acid, shake and allow it to stand for 1 to 2 hours. After this time the oily portion should be neither entirely nor partially congealed, but remain fluid. To detect traces of mustard oil, bring 10 drops of the oil into a wide reagent glass, then add 3 to 4 cubic centimeters of absolute alcohol, 2 to 3 drops of silver nitrate solu- tion and 12 to 15 drops of ammonia. The mixture is clear and colorless, and remains so on heating to boiling. VOLATILE OILS USED LN PERFUMERY. 135 Iii the presence of mustard oil turbidity and blackening take place in consequence of the formation of silver sulphide. After boiling, allow the fluid to stand quietly for 2 or 3 hours. If it then shows a grayish turbidity, the oil is adulterated with another volatile oil. Instead of pure American oil of peppermint, a pro- duct compounded with camphor oil, and mostly freed from menthol, is said frequently to occur in commerce. According to E. 0. Federer, this is recognized by dis- solving one volume of oil of peppermint in 2 volumes of 94 per cent, alcohol, adding water and shaking. Pure peppermint oil is then separated with a certain portion of the alcohol. For example, mix 10 cubic centimeters of oil of peppermint in a graduated cylinder of 45 to 50 cubic centimeters' capacity with 20 cubic centimeters of 94 per cent, alcohol, then add 10 cubic centimeters of water of 50 F. and shake. After allowing the mixture to stand quietly, two layers are formed, the upper one of which, if the oil is pure, will amount to 14 cubic centimeters, but only to 12.5 cubic centimeters if the oil is freed from menthol and compounded with camphor oil. A larger or smaller addition of water to the alcoholic mixture is without influence upon the height of the upper layer separated. In perfumery peppermint oil serves chiefly for aroma- tizing dentifrices, etc. It should be kept in well-closed bottles in a shady place; an addition of 0.5 per cent, of alcohol helps to preserve the oil for a long time. Poky oil (oleum menthce pulegii). In Southern France and Spain this oil is obtained by distillation from the leaves of Mentha pulegium. It has an odor resembling that of peppermint, is at first colorless, but soon becomes 136 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. yellow, has a specific gravity of 0.927, boils at 361.4 to 370.4 F., and contains neither menthol nor carvol. It is used for perfuming herb soaps. Pimento oil, or oil of allspice (oleum pimento) from the bruised fruit of Eugenia pimento, , allspice, natural order Myrtacece. The oil is pale yellow, becoming reddish- brown by age ; it has a very pungent taste and intense odor, very much resembling that of cloves. It is heavier than water, its specific gravity being from 1.021 to 1.037. It mixes with glacial acetic acid in all proportions. When treated with nitric acid, pure pimento oil assumes a red color, with strong effervescence. Rose oil or attar of roses (oleum rosce) comes almost exclusively from Bulgaria, where it is obtained by dis- tillation with water from the flowers of Rosa damascena. The small quantities of an excellent quality of rose oil prepared in Southern France from Rosa provincialis remain in the country of their production and do not even cover the local demand. The small productions of Persia and India need also not be taken into considera- tion. In Tunis, where formerly much rose water was prepared from Rosa canina and also rose oil of a very fine quality, the distillation of roses has, according to Christo Christoff, been entirely abandoned, geranium oil only being now produced. In the summer of 1884, Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic, Germany, made the ex- periment to obtain oil on a large scale from indigenous roses. The result was very satisfactory, 2000 Ibs. of rose leaves yielding about 1 Ib. of oil, the extraordi- narily agreeable, odor of which, was so superior to that of the Turkish oil, that notwithstanding the high price double that of Turkish oil it found ready purchasers. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMEEY. 137 At the ordinary temperature the Leipzic oil is solid, it only melting at 89.6 F. In Bulgaria, Kazanlik, in the Tundscha Valley, is the centre of the entire industry and the principal market. Rose oil is there called " gul-jag" (gul, the rose, and jag, oil). The annual production of Kazanlik and neighboring places, amounting 50 years ago to from 450 to 650 Ibs., has within a few years risen to the enor- mous figure of 5500 Ibs. In Kazanlik two varieties of roses, known as the " white rose" and " red rose," are cultivated ; the former being Rosa alba, L., and the latter Rosa damascena, Miller. By distillation the white rose yields an oil of little perfume, but rich in stearoptene. On account of its slight odor, the white rose is seldom distilled by itself, but occasionally white and red roses are mixed in order to obtain an oil rich in stearoptene, so that a fraudulent admixture of a larger quantity of geranium oil may be effected without great danger of detection. The large plantations consist only of bushes of red roses. But on the edges of the field a strip, a few feet wide, is planted with white roses, so that only flowers of little commercial value may be plucked by passers-by. The flowers are gathered before sunrise, and, if pos- sible, the same day subjected to distillation. The latter is effected in a very crude apparatus, over a direct fire. The flowers are distilled with double their weight of water, one-half of which is drawn off. The product of several operations thus obtained is combined and again distilled, when, however, only one-sixth is drawn off. This distillate is allowed to stand for one or two days in a place warmer than 59 F., when the oil floating on 138 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. the top is skimmed off. It may be supposed that on an average 6600 Ibs. of roses are required to obtain 2.2 Ibs. of oil, and that these 6600 Ibs. of roses correspond to an area of 1 hectare (2.471 acres) planted with rose bushes. Pure, carefully-distilled rose oil is at first colorless, but soon turns yellowish.* Its specific gravity is be- tween 0.830 and 0.890. It consists of a liquid oil and a stearoptene, the content of the latter varying very much. It is a pure hydrocarbon, odorless, of specific gravity, 0.840 to 0.860, and distils at 572 F. Hence it is lighter than the elseoptene on which alone the odor of the rose oil is dependent. Rose oil generally congeals between 50 and 60 F., though sometimes at a higher or lower degree, according to its content of stearoptene. While some oils require the cold of winter for congealing, others are in the heat of summer either entirely solid, or form a fluid filled with many crystals. The odor of rose oil is peculiarly honoy-like, and too intense to be agreeable, its entire deliciousness being only developed by strong dilution, be it by dissolving in water or alcohol, or by distribution upon large quantities of rigid bodies, fats, .soaps, etc. In alcohol it dissolves with greater difficulty than all other volatile oils, 1 part of it requiring for solution 1.40 to 160 parts of alcohol of 0.815 specific gravity. The larger or smaller content of stearoptene in rose oil seems to be dependent on climatic conditions, it having been remarked that the quantity is the greater * This, however, applies only to Bulgarian oil ; French and Saxon rose oils have a greenish color. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 139 the lower the temperature of the region. The oil from the coldest and highest regions of the Balkan is richer in stearoptene than that from the lower and warmer regions. The genuineness of rose oil is generally judged by its odor, its capacity of congealing, and the manner of its crystallization. The odor is by all means the most re- liable criterion, but requires much experience, and espe- cially reliable pure standard samples for comparison. The capacity of congealing at certain conditions of tem- perature, is, to be sure, also a requirement of genuine rose oil, but, as previously mentioned, this property varies very much, and is subject to different influences, so that a fixed standard at which pure rose oil must congeal cannot be established. Attention must, however, be called to the fact that the quality of a rose oil does by no means rise with its greater capacity to congeal, since only the liquid oxyginated portion possesses odor. Schimmel & Co. bring at present into commerce a liquid rose oil freed from stearoptene which can be highly recommended for finer alcoholic perfumes. It remains fluid at 32 F., but in a cold mixture congeals to a gelatinous mass, and hence is not absolutely free from stearoptene. It has an extremely fine and power- ful odor, and when dissolved in alcohol does not give the disagreeable crystalline separations of the ordinary rose oil, which produce a disturbing effect, especially in the preparation of extracts. For the insulation and determination of the stearop- tene in rose oil, Schimmel & Co. proceed as follows : Heat 50 grammes of oil together with 500 grammes of 75 per cent, alcohol to from 158 to 176 F. In cool- 140 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. ing, the stearoptene separates nearly quantitatively. Separate it from the fluid, treat it again in the same manner with 200 grammes of 75 per cent, alcohol, and repeat the operation until the stearoptene is entirely free from odor. Two treatments of the crude stearopteue are generally sufficient. In this manner Schimmel & Co. obtained from 1887 German rose oil 32J per cent, stearoptene, from 1888 German rose oil 34 per cent., from 1887 Turkish rose oil 12 to 13 per cent., and from 1888 Turkish rose oil 14 per cent. It is evident that such a valuable product as rose oil is much subjected to adulteration, it being even said that oils containing scarcely 10 per cent, of genuine rose oil occur in the market. The chief adulterant used by the Bulgarians is the so-called geranium oil, but actually ginger-grass oil derived from India, which is brought by way of Arabia to Constantinople, and prepared for the purpose of adulterating rose oil by treatment with lemon juice and bleaching in the sun. The sophistication is generally effected by sprinkling the ginger-grass oil thus prepared upon the rose leaves before distilling. The general characters of this oil are so similar to those of rose oil that detection, when the adulteration is kept within certain limits, is very difficult, so that during the distilling time large buyers and exporters of rose oil are forced to pay, besides their other officers in Kazanlik, confidential native agents who constantly move around in the distilling regions and report where distillation has been carried on honestly, and where the ginger-grass oil bottle has been seen. However, the prepared ginger- grass oil is frequently not even distilled with the rose leaves, but simply mixed with the finished rose oil. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 141 Whether a rose oil is free from geranium or ginger- grass oil is tested in Bulgaria, according to Christo Christoff, by the freezing method, which is, however, unreliable. It is based upon the fact that an addition of geranium oil reduces the congealing point of rose oil. Pure Bulgarian rose oil congeals at from 63.5 to 68 F. ; by the addition of geranium oil, the same oil con- geals at 61.25, 59, 5(5.75, or at a still lower tempera- ture, according to the quantity added. The buyer when purchasing oil carries with him two basins, one contain- ing hot and the other cold water, which he mixes in order to obtain a fixed temperature, the operation being controlled by a Reaumur thermometer. In the water thus prepared he completely submerges a 20 gramme flask containing 1 5 grammes of the oil to be tested. In three minutes, needle-like crystals of the separating stearoptene must appear, and in ten minutes crystalliza- tion must be complete. According to the congealing point thus established, the product is paid for. Oil congealing below 59 F. being evidently adulterated is rejected and bargained for at a special price. Many attempts have been made to fraudulently make this congelation appear within the limits of temperature permitted, paraffine which dissolves well in rose oil being formerly frequently added. In such case the oil may congeal at from 65.75 to 68 F., but the crystals are opaque, dirty yellow, and dissolve to a turbid paste which collects on the surface. The simplest method is to distil white roses with the red. The resulting pro- duct has not as fine an odor as that from red roses alone, but is richer in stearoptene. Such oil, which, un- adulterated, congeals perhaps at 68 F., can by the addi- 142 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. tion of geranium oil be reduced to from 63.5 to 65.75 F., thus keeping within the limits permitted. Numerous attempts have been made to find a rapid and sure way for the detection of geranium oil in rose oil, but thus far in vain. Attention must also be drawn to the fact that the adulterant is frequently itself adul- terated with oil of turpentine before being sold to the distillers of rose oil. Besides the above-mentioned ginger-grass oil, the actual geranium oils from Pelargonium odoratisximum and P. roseum, as well as rose-wood oil, sandal-wood oil, spermaceti, paraffine, and fat oils have been nien- tioned as adulterants of rose oil. The geranium oils having a by-odor of lemon oil, by which their presence could be readily detected are not suitable for the purpose. Neither can rose-wood or sandal-wood oils be used, or at least such adulteration would be so clumsy as to be immediately recognized. Attempts to adulterate rose oil by the addition of a fat crystal lizable body together with another volatile oil fail on account of the character- istic properties of rose oil stearoptene, which resembles no other body at present known. While rose oil stearop- tene is' lighter than elseoptene and entirely volatile, sper- maceti possesses essentially different qualities. It does not form such long and specifically light crystals as rose oil stearoptene; hence it readily separates on the bottom and on shaking exhibits a peculiar iridescent loamy formation. Furthermore it melts at 122 F., and not being volatile, leaves, on heating, a greasy stain upon paper, while the stearoptene melts at 95 F. and, on heating, volatilizes completely without leaving a greasy stain behind. VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 14o If a rose oil is to be tested, expose the bottle contain- ing the oil to a moderate heat until the contents are en- tirely liquid ; then gently shake the bottle in order to bring about an intimate mixture of elseoptene and stear- optene. Now pour some of the oil into a cylindrical glass flask of 20 to 40 cubic centimeters' capacity and allow it to congeal ; then, while heating in the hand, observe how the rigid portions act in liquefying. These rigid, crystalline portions should be transparently clear and, being lighter than the fluid portion, float, while liquefying, in the upper layer of the fluid. Hence, if now the fluid be again allowed to congeal, the crystals should appear within the upper half of the oil. The above-mentioned volatile oils partially lack the prop- erty of separating a stearoptene in crystals at from 33.8 to 50 F., and though they may have a rose odor, it is not the mild, fragrant odor of genuine rose oil. To recognize the latter, Guibourt makes use of pure concentrated sulphuric acid. Stir together in a watch-crystal an equal number of drops of the oil and of the acid ; pure rose oil preserves its characteristic odor, while the foreign oils exhibit a disagreeable odor even when mixed with genuine rose oil. Schimmel & Co. give a method for an approximate quantitative determination of spermaceti in rose oil: Boil 3 to 5 grammes of stearoptene, separated in the manner above given, with 20 to 25 grammes of 5 per- cent, alcoholic potash lye for 5 to 6 hours ; then evapo- rate the alcohol and compound the residue with hot water. In cooling, the greater portion of the stearop- tene separates in a crystalline mass upon the surface. Now pour off the alkaline fluid, wash the stearoptene 144 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. with cold water, then melt it again in hot water, allow it to cool, pour off the water, and repeat the same opera- tions until the wash-water is neutral. The combined aqueous fluids are twice shaken with ether to remove any stearoptene suspended in them. The alcoholic lye sepa- rated from the ether is acidulated with dilute sulphuric acid and again extracted with ether. After evapora- tion no residue (fatty acids) should remain. To control the experiment weigh the regained stearoptene dried at 194 F., adding, of course, the ether used for extracting the alkaline fluid. There will be a small loss, since small quantities of stearoptene always evaporate in drying. Rosemary oil (oleum rosemarini or ol. anthos) is obtained in Southern Europe, especially in Southern France, Dal- matia and Northern Italy, by distillation from the flow- ering rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis, natural order Labiatce. It is, when fresh, limpid, colorless, or yellow- ish, of a penetrating, camphor-like odor and taste, and specific gravity 0.880 to 0.915. By age it becomes darker and thickly-fluid. The French rosemary oil is the best and most expensive. It is distinguished from the Italian oil by its much more pleasant odor. Pure French rosemary oil dissolves in an equal part of 90 per cent, alcohol, while the Italian product requires 2 to 3 parts. The cheaper rosemary oils are generally adulterated with oil of turpentine, which is recognized by the oil not dissolving in the above-mentioned pro- portion in alcohol, as well as by the iodine test. Rose- mary oil does not detonate with iodine, but simply dis- solves with heating and perhaps the emission of vapors- VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 145 The French rosemary oil forms one of the ingredients of eau de Cologne and is used in other perfumery. Rosewood oil or rhodium oil (oleum ligni rhodii), is ob- tained by distillation from the wood of the root and lower trunk of Convolvulus scopiarius and C.floridas,L., two plants indigenous to the Canaries. The waste fall- ing off in the manufacture of rosewood beads is chiefly used for the purpose. The oil is of a pale yellow color becoming brown by age. It has a pleasant odor resem- bling in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose. It is sometimes used in cheap perfumery as a substitute for rose oil. Sandal-wood oil (oleum ligni sandali) is distilled from the white West Indian or dark yellow East Indian san- dal-wood (Santalum myrtifolium). For the purpose of distillation the wood is rasped as finely as possible. The oil obtained from the East Indian wood is the better and more valuable. It has a dark yellow to brown color and a pleasant intense, rose-like odor, while the West Indian oil is pale yellow and of a less agreeable odor. Both oils are very thickly-fluid. The quality and value of sandal-wood oil are best judged by the odor, an adulteration with cedar oil being readily detected thereby. Sassafras oil (oleum ligni sassafras), from the bruised root of the sassafras tree, Sassafras officinale, natural order Lauracece. Sassafras is one of the most widely distributed trees of North America, being found in Canada, in all of the United States, east of the prairies, beyond the Mississippi, and in Mexico. The largest amount of oil distilled is within sixty miles of Baltimore, Md., which is the principal depot for its commerce. Oil of sassafras varies in color from colorless to 10 146 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. yellow and red. Its taste is pungent and aromatic, being agreeable to most persons. It has a pleasant odor resembling that of fennel, and is heavier than water, its specific gravity being 1.08 to 1.09. It is soluble in 4 to 5 parts of alcohol of 0.85 specific gravity, and consists of a mixture of various oils, among which is safrene (C 10 H 16 ), a dextrorotatory terpene which boils between 311 and 314.6 F. By strongly cooling in a cold mixture, safrol, a crystallizing stearoptene of the composition C ]0 H 10 O 2 , is separated. Safrol is the chief constituent of sassafras oil. It is obtained in abundance by cooling, at a temperature of 13 F., the portion boiling between 442.4 and 455 F. It melts at 46.4 F., and at a medium temperature forms a colorless clear oil of pungent taste, characteristic odor, and specific gravity 1.104. When the crystals have been heated to above 158 F., they congeal only after remaining for weeks at a temperature below 32 F., but on being melted at 68 F., the fluid mass again congeals readily on cooling. The safrol is neutral, optically inactive, boils at 449.6 F., and is soluble in alcohol and ether. Sassafras oil is said to be frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine, which is, however, readily detected by the energetic reaction and by distilling a sample of the suspected oil. Safrol is very suitable for perfuming ordinary soaps. It has in a still higher degree than camphor oil the property of removing the disagreeable odor of some fats, while at the same time it imparts to the soaps an aromatic, refreshing odor. As a rule 8 to 11 ozs. are used for 220 Ibs. of soap ; but if it shall at the same itime serve for removing the disagreeable odor of low VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 147 quality fats, especially those extracted with bisulphide of carbon or benzine, it is advisable to take 2.2 Ibs., or still better, 4.4 Ibs. for 220 Ibs. of soap. In this case the safrol should be added to the fat after melting and before saponification and thoroughly mixed with it by stirring. An excellent perfume for ordinary soaps is a mixture of safrol and citronella oil, it being at any rate preferable to oil of mirbane. The standard of value for safrol is its specific gravity, which should not be below 1.104 at 59 F. Specifically lighter kinds contain camphor oil and other impurities. Thyme oil is obtained in Southern France and Spain by distillation from the flowering thyme, Thymus vul- garisj L. It is greenish-yellow to red (red thyme oil, oleum thymi rubrum\ but by rectification becomes color- less (white thyme oil, oleum thymi album). Both oils are quite limpid and possess a strong thyme odor. The specific gravity of the red oil is 0.91 to 0.94, and that of the rectified oil 0.87 to 0.89. The oil prepared from the fresh plant shows, as a rule, a higher specific gravity than that from the dried plant. Thyme oil consists essentially of thymene (C 10 H 16 ) besides some cymene (C 10 H 14 ) and thymol (C 10 H ]4 O), the latter forming an essential constitutent of the oil. Oils from which the thymol has been withdrawn occur in commerce. Pure thyme oil dissolves clear in every proportion in 90 per cent, alcohol ; if such is not the case, adulteration with oil of turpentine is probable. The oil distilled from the field thyme, Thymus serpyl- lum y L. } is limpid, yellowish to gold yellow, and of spe- cific gravity 0.89 to 0.91. Old oil is red or brown and no longer limpid. Good oil is soluble in every proper- 148 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. tion in 90 per cent, alcohol and emits only slight vapors when brought in contact with iodine. It consists largely of thymene and cymene, and contains a few per cent, of phenol -like bodies. Turpentine, oil of. Under the general name " oil of turpentine" are comprised the volatile oils obtained by distillation from the resins or other portions of different species of the pine. There is a large number of these oils, the most important ones of which shall here be men- tioned, though but a few are of interest to the perfumer. Austrian oil of turpentine, from Pinus laricio, Poir. It is colorless or yellowish, transparent ; specific gravity, 0.864; boiling point, 311 to 314 F. ; turns polarized light to the left ; soluble in 6 parts 90 per cent, alcohol. "When rectified it has a specific gravity of 0.862, and is soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. German oil of turpentine, from Pinus sylvestris, P. abies, P. vulgaris, P. pieea, and P. rotundata, resembles the former ; specific gravity, 0.860 to 0.870 ; boiling- point, 311 to 320 F.; turns polarized light to the left. When rectified it is soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. French oil of turpentine, from French turpentine of Pinus maritima. It is colorless or faint yellowish; specific gravity, 0.860; boiling point, 313 to 315 F. ; turns polarized light to the left ; odor peculiar ; taste burning. With 7 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol it gives a clear solution. Venetian oil of turpentine, from Venice turpentine of Larix decidua, Mill., is laevorotatory and resembles the preceding, but has a more agreeable odor. Venice VOLATILE OILS USED IX PERFUMERY. 149 turpentine is jnostly obtained in Southern Tyrol and in Piedmont, and yields 18 to 25 per cent, of oil. American oil of turpentine, from American turpentine of Pinus australis, Mich., and P. Taeda, L. It resembles French turpentine, but turns polarized light to the right. Specific gravity, 0.864; boiling point, 302 to 312.8 F. Pine oil (oleum abietis) is obtained by distilling with water the leaves or green cones of Pinus picea, L., Abies pectinata, D. C. Its odor is much finer than that of or- dinary oil of turpentine. It is soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. Dwarf pine oil, Krummhoh or. Latschenoel (oleum pini pumilionis), is obtained by distilling the young tops and cones of Pinus pumilio with water. It has an agreeable odor, reminding one of juniper; specific gravity, 0.865 ; boiling, point, 338 F. The oil is laevorotatory and soluble in 12 to 15 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. Pine-leaf oil is obtained by distilling the leaves of Pinus sylvestris or P. abies by means of steam. It is dextrorotatory ; has a fine aromatic odor ; boiling point, 320 F. ; specific gravity, 0.875 to 0.876. Tem,plin oil (Kienoel) (oleum pini, ol. templinum) is ob- tained chiefly in some sections of Switzerland and Tyrol by distilling the wood, branches, leaves, cones, etc., with water. It has a lemon-like odor ; specific gravity, 0.860 to 0.880 ; boiling point, 320 to 327 F., and is laevora- tatory. Balsam-pine oil (oleum abietis canadensis) is obtained in Canada from the branches of Abies bahamea, D. C. It has a slightly yellowish color, a very agreeable and refreshing odor; specific gravity, 0.902; boiling point 150 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. at 320 to 330.8 F., and turns polarized light to the right. Of the different varieties of oil of turpentine men- tioned only pine oil and dwarf pine oil are used in perfumery. Oils of turpentine must be kept carefully protected from light and air. When badly kept they gradually become resinous with formation of formic and acetic acids. When exposed to the air oil of turpentine absorbs ozone ; with iodine it detonates violently. When brought in contact with a mixture of concentrated sulphuric acid and nitric acid it ignites. Verbena, oil of, from the lemon verbena, Aloysia citrio- dora, Hooker. The plant is cultivated in the gardens of Grasse. The oil is extracted from the leaves by dis- tillation in August, but on account of its high price is almost out of market, it being everywhere substituted by the oil of lemon grass, Andropogon citratus. Violet, oil of. The perfume of the violet, Viola odo- rata, natural order Violacece, is due to a volatile oil of a green color and of such a penetrating odor as to cause headache ; it acquires the agreeable odor of the violet only by strong dilution. The violet farms from whence the flowers are procured for the production of the oil, are very extensive at Nice and in the neighborhood of Florence. The oil is only obtained by the absorption process, all other methods to procure it having failed up to this time. It is scarcely obtainable in commerce, as the French manufacturers, who prepare the greater part of it, use the very small yield for manufacturing fine perfumery. Vitivert or vetiver oil (oelum iva ranchusa) from the VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 151 so-called cuscus, the rhizome of an Indian grass, Ana- thereum muricatum. The oil is obtained by distillation, either from the fresh root in India, or from the imported dried root in Europe. The yield is very small. The oil is thickly-fluid, of a red-brown color, and has an intense, but agreeable odor very much like that of oil of orris root. Like the latter, it possesses the valuable property of diffusing a lasting perfume. Its value can only be judged by the odor, and hence it should only be pur- chased from a thoroughly reliable firm. Wintergreen oil (oleum gaultherice) is obtained by dis- tillation from the wintergreen, Gaultheria proeumbens, a plant common in North America. It is thickly fluid, yellowish green to gold yellow, of a sweetish, aromatic, pungent taste and penetrating, narcotic odor, which becomes agreeable only by strongly diluting the oil. By rectification the oil becomes entirely colorless. Its specific gravity is 1.170 to 1.190 (according to Glad- stone, 1.142). It is sparingly soluble in water, but readily so in alcohol, ether, chloroform, etc. The aqueous or dilute alcoholic solution is colored deep violet by ferric chloride. Wintergreen oil boils at 392 F. ; the boiling point, however, soon rises to 431.6 F., when it remains con- stant. Between 392 and 428 F. a 'terpene (C 10 H 16 ) constituting about T V f tlie oil distils off; the rest corre- sponds to the composition C 8 H 8 O 3 ; it is methyl salicy- Wintergreen oil is also obtained by distillation from Gaultheria punctata and Gaultheria leucocarpa. An oil, very closely resembling wintergreen oil, is in this 152 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. country distilled from the young shoots of the American species of birch, Betula lenta, variously called sweet birch, black birch, cherry birch, and mountain mahogany. According to Procter, the oil does not exist in the birch but is formed by the action of the water upon an odor- less body, called gaultherin, which is converted into volatile oil by the reaction of another substance analo- gous to emulsin. Hence the formation of oil is similar to that of oil of bitter almonds. To obtain the oil from Betttla lenta, the material is chopped up and placed in the still, as much as this will hold, a sufficient quantity of water being then added to fill the still about one-third full. The still is generally permitted to remain in this condi- tion over night, a fire is made in the morning and dis- tillation proceeds nicely. The manufacture of birch oil is carried on at quite a large scale by Mr. A. H. Seidle, of Middleport, Schuylkill County, Pa. .Methyl salicylate may also be artificially prepared by heating a mixture of methyl alcohol, sulphuric acid and salicylic acid whereby at first methyl-sulphuric acid is formed which is then converted into methyl ether and sulphuric acid : (OH fOCH 3 S0 2 1 + CH 3 OH = S0 2 1 + H 2 (OH (OH (OCH 3 (OH + c 6 nJ (COOH co. ocH (OH SOJOH. ( Etherification succeeds without difficulty, it being suffi- cient to heat the mixture for some time and then pour VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 153 it into water whereby the ether separates as ^a. heavy layer of oil. After washing with water distil ijjj^ direct current of steam. The ether thus obtaine^i^is clear as water and, as regards its other properties/ 'does not differ from the naturally occurring oil. This artificial wintergreen oil is now much used for perfuming purposes. Wintergreen oil is said to be frequently adulterated with sassafras oil which is also specifically heavier than water. If, according to Hayer, 5 drops of the oil in a test-tube be mixed with 10 drops of crude concentrated nitric acid, a deep blood-red fluid results in one minute if oil of sassafras is present. In the course of another minute, the fluid separates a brown resinous mass. Pure oil, on the other hand, is but little altered. According to P. MacEwan the adulteration of winter- green oil with camphor oil is carried on at a large scale. The presence of camphor oil may be recognized by the specific gravity, 0.900, while that of pure wintergreen oil is, on an average, 1.18. A crude test which is, however, readily executed is as follows : Stir a few drops of the suspected oil in water. If pure, the oil in a few seconds sinks to the bottom, but if it contains camphor oil several minutes elapse before it deposits, and there is time to observe that the particles of oil assume different forms, but not a globular one. Ylang-Ylang oil (oleum unonce) is obtained by dis- tilling the flowers of Unona odoratissima, indigenous to the Philippine Islands, the Straits of Malacca, and In- dian Archipelago. The oil is colorless to yellowish. Its color and specific gravity, however,, vary very much, according to the season of the year in which it is pre- 154 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. pared, the oil distilled in the cold season being more colorless and limpid than that produced in the warm season. The oil has an exquisite odor, partaking of the jasmine and the lilac, and is used in the manufacture of the finest perfumery. Various kinds are found in com- merce, that marked " Sartorius" being preferred. The difference in quality of the many kinds of oil found in commerce is chiefly due to the method of pre- paration and the selection of the flowers, which possess the finest aroma when freshly gathered. In distilling, the first light volatile portions passing over have an incomparable perfume, while the oil distilling over later on possesses an insipid odor. Hence the manufacturer, who only obtains the first portions, will furnish the finest quality of oil, and it is this method of preparation which has gained the "Sartorius" oil its high reputation. While according to Schimmel & Co.'s report, 220 Ibs. of fresh ylang-ylang flowers yield 2.64 Ibs. of oil, Sartorius for the preparation of his fine oil distils off only about half the quantity. Conanga oil is a poorer quality of ylang-ylang oil, obtained from the same plant. Two varieties are dis- tinguished in commerce, viz : the Javanese and Indian. The Java oil is the best, and may be used where ordinary qualities of ylang-ylang oil will do. According to Schimmel & Co.'s report the cheaper Indian oil is very resistant and durable in soaps, especially when combined with licari or linaloe oil. RESINS AND BALSAMS. 155 CHAPTER V. RESINS AND BALSAMS. THE term resins is applied to certain organic sub- stances which are very closely related to volatile oils, in so far as many of them are formed from the latter by oxidation. As previously mentioned, by exposure to the atmospheric air all volatile oils undergo a change, whereby they thicken and are finally converted into substances possessing the character of resins. In nature most resins also occur mixed with volatile oils. The elementary constituents of resins are carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen ; but, generally speaking, they are poor in oxygen and rich in carbon. Chemically they behave like weak acids, their solutions frequently reddening litmus and sometimes expelling, on boiling, the carbonic acid from alkaline carbonates. Independent of a possible content of volatile oil, every naturally occurring resin consists of several resins which, however, can, as a rule, be separated only with difficulty. The resins are generally divided into hard resins, soft resins or balsams, and gum-resins. The hard resins are, at the ordinary temperature, solid, hard, and brittle, can be readily pulverized, and contain little or no volatile oil. The soft resins or balsams are kneadable, and sometimes even semi-fluid ; they represent solutions of resins in volatile oils, or a mixture of volatile oil and 156 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. resin. On exposure to the air they are changed by the volatile oil suffering oxidation, they becoming then more or less hard, and may be converted into actual resins. The gum-resins are mixtures of vegetable gum, resin, and volatile oils, and are obtained by inspissation of the milky juice of several plants. When triturated with water they yield a milky, turbid fluid, and dissolve only partially in alcohol. The resins are widely diffused in the vegetable king- dom, there being scarcely a plant which does not contain resin in one form or another. Some families of plants and organs of plants are, however, distinguished by their special wealth of resins. The resins are, as a rule, secreted simultaneously with volatile oils in special reservoirs, from which they flow out naturally at certain periods, or are obtained by incisions made in the plants. A few bodies of the character of resins also occur in the animal kingdom, and a series of them, the fossil resins, are generally classed in the mineral kingdom, though most of them are very likely derived from plants. Some resins, such as the aldehyde resins, etc., are purely arti- ficial products. Of the hard resins, benzoin alone is used in per- fumery ; of the balsams, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, and storax balsam ; and of the gum-resins, the myrrh. Benzoin is exclusively obtained from Styrax ben- zoin, Dry and (Benzoine officinale, Ho.yne\ a tree which grows in Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The bark of the tree is slit to allow a fluid to flow out, which concretes on the trunk in the form of grains, or is collected in vessels in which it congeals and assumes the form of lumps (" tampangs"). Older trees which have been RESINS AND BALSAMS. 157 frequently tapped for resin yield a product of a lower Duality; the grains ("tears") forming, as a rule, the better varieties. When the benzoin collects in large masses it always shows an amygdaloid structure, the grains ("almonds") of a roundish form, smooth termina- tion, homogeneous structure, and paler color, appearing imbedded in a dark, porous, or resiniform mass. According to the appearance of the product three varieties are distinguished : Benzoin in tears (B. in lacrimis), amygdaloid benzoin (B. amygdaloides), and lump benzoin (B. in sortis, B. in massis). The benzoin in tears forms loose, smoothly terminated, longish, homo- geneously appearing masses of an opal-like lustre, and first of a whitish, and later on, of a yellowish, reddish, or brownish color. The separate pieces are up to 3 millimeters in diameter, though the Siam benzoin in tears frequently consists of still larger and generally decidedly flattened pieces. Amygdaloid benzoin consists chiefly of white pieces, becoming, later on, brownish, of a waxy lustre and im- bedded in a lustrous brown-red resinous mass. The lump benzoin or ordinary benzoin has also an amygdaloid structure but is not so rich in almonds as the preceding variety and possesses either a fine granular or colophony- like ground-mass and is frequently contaminated by parts of plants. The exterior of the variety occurring in commerce in large lumps shows, according to the mode of packing, the imprint of leaves or of coarse pack- cloth. Benzoin generally consists of cinnamic and benzoic acids which occur in a crystalline state in the grains as well as the ground-mass ; further, of several amorphous 158 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. resins soluble in alcohol, and coloring matter. The con- tent of cinnamic and benzoic acids amounts to from 1 2 to 20 per cent. The best varieties from Sumatra and Singapore contain no benzoic acid, and those from Siam no cinnamic acid. All varieties of benzoin possess a peculiar odor, that of the better varieties being agreeable, and a sweet, aromatic, but pungent taste. The melting point gen- erally lies between 176 and 203 F., that of the tears and of the almonds being lower than that of the ground- mass. A low melting-point is accepted as a mark of quality, Siam benzoin, which is considered the best, melting at 167 F. Some varieties, for instance, those recently imported from Singapore, have a pronounced vanilla-like odor; the presence of vanillin has been established in. them. The Sumatra benzoin has a storax-like odor. Benzoin is sparingly soluble in chloroform, only par- tially so in ether, and completely in alcohol. On mix- ing the alcoholic solution with water, the resin is separated. Petroleum-ether and benzine withdraw only benzoic acid from the dry, powdered benzoin. All varieties of benzoin dissolve in concentrated sulphuric acid to a beautiful purple colored fluid, from which benzoic acid, if present, is separated in crystals by the gradual addition of water. The establishment of the presence of cinnamic acid is best effected as follows: Boil the sample in milk of lime, filter, and treat the solution with hydrochloric acid. The precipitate thereby separated is thoroughly washed, triturated with potas- sium permanganate and water, and heated, whereby in the presence of cinnamic acid, oil of bitter almonds is RESINS AND BALSAMS. 159 formed from the latter, which is readily recognized by the odor. If benzoin containing benzoic acid be heated, white vapors are emitted which, on cold surfaces, deposit in very delicate, lustrous, acicular, or foliated crystals of benzoic acid, the so-called benzoin flowers (Floris ben- zoes.) Benzoic acid thus prepared possesses an agreeable, vanilla-like odor, since by heating the benzoin the greater portion of the odoriferous substance contained in it escapes. Benzoic acid separated by the wet method is odorless. Benzoin is especially used for fumigating pastilles. It is also of great importance on account of its property of preventing fats from becoming rancid, if added to them in small quantities. Peru balsam (Bahamum Peruvianum) is the produce of the Balsam Coast, San Salvador, Central America, where Sansonate forms the central point of the industry. In the mountain forests, back of the coast, grows the balsam tree (Myroxylon Pereirce, Klotzch ; Toluifene Pereirce, Battlon), natural order, Papilionaceoe. The gaining of balsam commences when the tree is five years old, the collecting time beginning in the dry season in the first days of November. The trunks of the trees are belabored with hammers on four places (according to other statements, on twenty to thirty), so that the bark is detached in strips. After a few days the bark thus loosened is burnt off by means of torches, where- upon a balsamic fluid oozes from the young wood, which is absorbed by pieces of cloth or rags, placed upon the denuded places. When the rags are thoroughly satu- rated with balsam, they are squeezed out and then 160 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. thrown into an earthen pot filled with boiling water, whereby the balsam is detached and collects on the bot- tom of the vessel. By this process the Balsamo de trapo is obtained. By boiling the bark, which falls off, a small quantity of a poorer quality of balsam, called tacuasonte, is obtained, which, it would seem, is fre- quently added to the better quality. Crude Peruvian balsam is a gray-green to dirty-yellow fluid, of the con- sistency of syrup. The process of purification in use on the Balsamic Coast is as follows : The crude balsam is brought into large iron vessels, holding from 1300 to 1500 Ibs. each, and allowed to clarify by quietly stand- ing from 8 to 14 days, the heavy impurities settling on the bottom, while the light dirt, together with the water, appears as foam on the surface. After 8 to 14 days the balsam is drawn off through a cock, located about 4f inches above the bottom of the vessel, into a tinned iron boiler, and boiled over an open fire at a moderate heat for 2 to 3 hours. The foam which forms is skinned off, and boiling continued until no more foam appears. The collection of balsam continues until the first rain falls in April or May, when the work ceases. A vig- orous tree, well treated, yields balsam for 30 years in succession, and if then allowed to rest 5 or 6 years can be used several years longer. The annual yield of bal- sam from 100 trees is said to be about 550 Ibs. From the very odoriferous flowers of the balsam tree or, according to others, by expressing the fruits, a white Peruvian balsam is obtained, which is, however, seldom found in commerce. It is of the consistency of honey, pale-yellow, smells of vanilla and melilot, and has an RESINS AND BALSAMS. 161 aromatic bitter taste. On standing for some time it de- posits crystals of myroxocarpiu. Ordinary (black) Peruvian balsam is a black-brown fluid, transparent and dark (honey-yellow in thin layers), which retains its consistency even after being kept for years and deposits no crystals. It shows a slight acid reaction, has an agreeable odor reminding one of gum benzoin and vanilla, and at first a mild, but, later on, a sharp and pungent taste. The specific gravity of pure Peru balsam formerly varied between 1.14 and 1.16, but at present between 1.135 and 1.145, this change in the specific gravity being very likely due to a different process of purification. Peru balsam is miscible in every proportion with absolute alcohol, while ether leaves behind undissolved a black, smeary residue, and hot oils of turpentine or almonds dissolve only about one-half. It is miscible with acetone, chloroform, amyl alcohol. By digesting the balsam with aqueous potash lye, Peru balsam oil, which constitutes about 60 per cent, of the balsam, separates on the surface. In an un decomposed 'state the oil is, according to Kachler, chiefly benzyl, cinnamate, or cinnamein. The potash solution separated from the Peru balsam oil, contains cinnamic acid, benzole acid, and resin. The latter, according to Stotze, can be sepa- rated into two portions, one soluble, and the other insoluble, in aqueous alcohol. Benzine and petroleum-ether dissolve from the Peru balsam only the nearly colorless cinnamein of which it contains up to 45 per cent. The behavior of Peru bal- sam towards bisulphide of carbon is very characteristic, 11 162 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 3 parts of it giving, according to Fliickiger, a clear solution with 1 part of bisulphide of carbon; if, how- ever, 8 parts more of the latter be added, up to 30 per cent, of a dark resin is separated, while the bisulphide of carbon is but slightly colored. From San Salvador 11,000 to 13,000 Ibs. of Peru balsam are annually brought to Europe, it being gen- erally imported in tin cans, and more rarely in earthen jars surrounded by a kind of plaited matting. Accord- ing to whether the product comes by way of England, New York, Bremen, or Hamburg, it is distinguished as English, American, Bremen, or Hamburg Peru balsam. The supply being frequently insufficient, the balsam is subjected to many adulterations. A cheap, so-called London Peru balsam always contained colophony and had a specific gravity of 1.133. There can be no doubt that pure unadulterated Peru balsam is difficult to obtain. As adulterants, are used : Alchohol, volatile oils, fat oil, especially castor oil; further, copaiba balsam, Canada balsam, gurjun balsam, storax, benzoin, and asphaltum. The establishment of these adulterants is connected with difficulties ; but the properties of Peru balsam are so characteristic that it is quite easy to detect whether it is genuine and pure, or not, the specific gravity and proportions of solubility deserving especial attention in this respect. The test by the specific gravity is available, since most of the adulterants render the balsam specifically lighter, especially alcohol, but also copaiba balsam (specific gravity, 0.95), castor oil (0.96), oil of turpentine (0.87), gurjun (0.96), etc. The customary procedure is as follows : Prepare a common KESINS AND BALSAMS. 163 salt solution of 1.25 specific gravity, by dissolving 1 part of dried sodium chloride in 5 parts of distilled water; drop the balsam into the solution ; every drop of pure Peru balsam sinks in a roundish form to the bottom ; but if the drop again comes to the surface and spreads out upon it, it is a sure sign of some kind of adultera- tion. However, the change in the specific gravity by the admixture of fat oils is but very slight, since the balsam can only be mixed with them to a conformable fluid in the proportion of from 7 to 10 to 1. Castor oil forms an exception in this respect, it being miscible also in other proportions. Petroleum-ether is an excellent testing agent. Bring into a test-tube about 2.5 grammes of Peru balsam, and 6 to 7 centimeters of petroleum-ether, close the tube with the finger and shake vigorously ; a brown, thickly- fluid mass adheres in unequal layers to the sides of the tube, and before running together remains in this position 1 to 2 minutes after the petroleum- ether has been poured into a porcelain saucer. If, however, the mass is thinly-fluid, and does not, in the above-mentioned manner, adhere to the sides of the tube, but, after shak- ing, collects below the petroleum-ether, the balsam is adulterated. After shaking, immediately pour off the petroleum-ether; if the latter is almost colorless, or but slightly colored yellowish, the balsam is pure ; if, however, it is turbid, and soon forms a sediment, or if it is yellow or brownish, or brown, the balsam is adul- terated. Alcohol is added either by itself or in the form of saturated solution of storax, benzoin, or Canada balsam, by which means the specific gravity of the balsam is but 164 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. slightly changed. Bring the above-mentioned common salt solution, together with 20 grammes of the Peru balsam to be examined, into a small flask, and distil off about 5 grammes ; gradually mix the distillate with 5 drops of caustic potash lye and potassium iodide solu- tion saturated with iodine, shaking gently until the mixture acquires a slightly yellow-brownish coloration. If this coloration does not disappear in one minute, add drop by drop more of the potash lye until discolora- tion appears. In the presence of alcohol, yellow crystals of iodoform, which are readily recognized under the microscope by their form, collect on the bottom of the fluid. Adulteration with a volatile oil is recognized in the distillate by odor and taste. Fat oil, Canada balsam, copaiba balsam, gurjun bal- sam, and volatile oil may be recognized by the follow- ing tests : If pure Peru balsam in a porcelain saucer is thoroughly mixed with an equal volume of pure con- centrated sulphuric acid, the mixture thereby becomes heated, vapors of a pungent odor being emitted, and if then set aside to cool, it congeals. In the presence of fat or volatile oils, copaiba balsam, gurjun balsam, or Canada balsam, it remains, however, more or less thickly fluid or more or less soft-smeary. If the balsam be pure, the cold mixture, after washing with water, should yield a hardish or soft-friable mass, which, when kneaded with the fingers, should not prove smeary or sticky. Fat oils are also very readily recognized by the use of warm petroleum-ether. The extract is evaporated, saponified with potash lye, extracted with alcohol, evap- orated and decomposed with hydrochloric acid. A mix- RESINS AND BALSAMS. 165 ture of cinnamic acid and any of the fatty acids present in the Peru balsam is thereby obtained, which, after treatment with water, remains in the residue. Of copaiba balsam, Peru balsam can take up as much as 25 per cent. From such adulterated balsam ben- zine dissolves the copaiba balsam, together with cinna- mein, and the adulteration can then be recognized by the odor. Cinnamein treated with sulphuric acid ac- quires a cherry-red color, while in the presence of copaiba balsam or gurjun balsam, a yellow-brown coloration appears. The detection of an adulteration of Peru bal- sam with storax is, according to Denner, effected as follows : Shake in a test-tube 5 parts of the balsam to be examined with 5 parts of a 15 per cent, soda solu- tion (soda lye of 1.60 specific gravity) and 10 parts of water. .Then shake with 15 parts of ether, and after settling pour off the ether as much as possible. Repeat the shaking with 15 parts of fresh ether. Now heat the aqueous residue to boiling, acidulate with hydrochloric acid, add cold water, remove the resin sepa- rated thereby from the fluids, dissolve it in about 3 parts of soda lye of the above-mentioned strength, dilute with 20 parts of water, heat to boiling, and precipitate with barium chloride solution. Bring the precipitate upon the filter, and, after allowing it to drain off, dry it in the water-bath. Then extract it with alcohol, evaporate the alcoholic extract, take it up with concentrated sul- phuric acid, add chloroform, and shake. In the presence of gum benzoin or storax, the chloroform acquires a violet to blue color. This method is a sure test for the recognition of even very small admixtures. A content of asphaltum is readily detected by mixing 166 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. the Peru balsam with ether compounded with about J- alcohol. Any asphaltum present remains undissolved, and may be collected upon a filter. In perfumery Peru balsam is chiefly used for pomades and fumigating pastilles, but also for cosmetics and soaps. Tolu balsam is the produce of Myroxylon toluiferum, Humb.j Bonpl et Kunth, Toluifera balsamum, L., a tree of the natural order Papilionacece, growing in Northwestern South America. It exudes during the heat of the day, and is collected in gourds. It soon hardens, by which it is distinguished from Peru balsam. In commerce two varieties of Tolu balsam are found, one of the consistency of turpentine and the other solid. The first variety, Brazilian balsam, forms a semifluid, turpentine-like, sticky mass, of the color, of copaiba balsam. By long storage it becomes hard and brownish. The solid variety, Tolu, or Carthagena balsam, is a brittle, more or less translucent yellow-brown or red- brown resin of a granular or crystalline appearance. It softens at about 86 F., and melts between 140 and 149 F. Viewed under the microscope, it appears rich in crystals of separated ciannamic and benzoic acids. Its specific gravity varies between 1 and 2. Both varie- ties of Tolu balsam have an aromatic, slightly pungent and sourish taste, resembling somewhat that of Peru balsam. They are readily soluble in ordinary spirit of wine, alcohol, acetone, chloroform, and potash lye, but insoluble in petroleum-ether and bisulphide of carbon. In Tolu balsam have been found toluene, cinnamic and benzoic acids, and several resins not yet sufficiently ex- amined. According to Scharling, toluene constitutes RESINS AND BALSAMS. 167 about 1 per cent, of the Tolu balsam. It forms a color- less, limp oil, boils, according to Deville, at 338 F., and according to E. Kopp, at between 309 and 320 F., and has a specific gravity of 0.858. It has a sharp, pungent, pepper-like taste, and an odor resembling that of elemi. In the air, it is gradually converted by oxidation into a soft resin, without, however, becoming colored. On boiling Tolu balsam with water, cinnamic and benzonic acids are separated from the solution. When treated with potash lye the resinous acids are fixed, and the toluene floats upon the fluid. Commercial Tolu balsam is frequently more or less mixed with vegetable remains, which, however, can be readily detected with the microscope, especially after the solution of the resinous constituents. It is fre- quently adulterated with turpentine or pine resin. Such adulterations may be detected by bisulphide of carbon, which completely dissolves these substances, but not the Tolu balsam. When pure Tolu balsam is triturated with concentrated sulphuric acid, a cherry-red fluid is, according to Ulex, obtained, which does not evolve sulphurous acid, as is the case in the presence of turpentine-resins. Tolu balsam is chiefly used for fumigating pastilles. The tincture prepared from it is also frequently used with advantage to give durability to the scent of hand- kerchief perfumes. According to Holmes and Nalor, a Tolu balsam dif- fering in its chemical behavior is found in the English wholesale trade. In thick layers it is yellow-brown, but perfectly transparent and gold-yellow in thin layers 168 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. and extraordinarily sticky. By storage it hardens but slightly, and does not become brittle even if exposed for several days to a temperature of 212 F. Its odor re- minds one somewhat of glue, and it develops a pungent, sharp taste only after chewing it for a few seconds. Its melting point lies at 136.4 F., being lower than that of ordinary Tolu balsam, from which it also differs in that it completely dissolves in ether as well as in ben- zine, while it is only partially dissolved by potash lye. The balsam contains no toluene, nor a hydrocarbon, boiling at 320 F. Further investigations have shown it actually to be a natural product, the derivation of which, however, could not be ascertained. '* Storax is the produce of Liquid ambar orientate, Mill, a plantain-like tree which reaches a height of about 32 feet. In Southern Asia Minor, especially in Cyprus, the tree forms handsome, dense forests. According to Fliickiger, the balsam is extracted from the peeled-off bark, with the assistance of warm water. The mass thus melted out sinks down in the water, and is later on combined with the substance obtained by expressing the boiled bark while still warm. This mixture forms the liquid storax (Storax liquidus). The residue remaining after expression is dried in the sun and forms, under the name of Cortex thymiamatis, an article of commerce, which is used for fumigating purpose, for the prepara- tion of ordinary storax, etc. The crude storax is brought to Smyrna, Syra, and Kos, and comes into the European market almost exclusively from Trieste. * Liquid storax is a sticky, opaque substance of the con- sistency of turpentine. It has a mouse-gray color, which by contact with the air becomes brown on the surface, RESINS AND BALSAMS. 169 an agreeable benzoin-like odor, and a sharp, pungent, aromatic taste. It is heavier than water, its specific gravity being 1.112 to 1.115. On losing its content of moisture (by drying out when heated) it becomes brown and clear. When exposed to the air in a thick layer it does not completely dry, and in a thin layer only after considerable time ; but when pressed with the finger always shows a certain stickiness. It is partially solu- ble in spirits of wine, yielding with it a more or less turbid solution. It is also incompletely soluble in oil of turpentine, benzine, petroleum-ether, and chloroform. Viewed under the microscope liquid storax appears as a colorless thickish fluid, intermingled with larger and smaller drops, fragments of bark tissue, and now and then, perhaps, with crystals of styracin and cinnamic acid. Liquid storax contains styrol (10 to 15 per cent.), styraciu, and cinnamic acid (10 to 15 per cent.). Styrol or cinnamol seems to be the most important carrier of the odor and taste of liquid storax. If 20 parts of liquid storax are subjected to distillation together with 15 parts of crystallized soda and 200 parts of water, the cinnamol collects in the form of a yellowish, very mobile liquid upon the distillate. By rectification it can be obtained colorless, but is thereby partially converted into meta- styrol, an isomeric, amorphous, odorless, and tasteless substance which is solid at an ordinary temperature. By exposure for some time to a heat of 608 F. it is reconverted into styrol. Styrol (C 8 H 8 ) forms a clear, colorless, mobile liquid having an odor of benzine and naphthalene. Its specific gravity is 0.924 and its boil- ing point lies at 294.8 F. In water it is but sparingly 1 70 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. soluble, but is miscible in all proportions with anhydrous spirit of wine, chloroform, benzine, ether, and oils. It stands in the same relation to cinnamic acid as benzol to benzoic acid, and is formed by distilling a mixture of cinnamic acid and barium oxide. Styracin is cinnyl cinnamate. On distilling liquid storax with water, styrol passes over. If now from the residue the cinnamic acid be withdrawn by means of soda-solution, and the resin, which remains behind, be treated with cold spirit of wine, styracin is left, which crystallizes from ether, hot alcohol, or benzol. It forms colorless, odorless, and tasteless crystals which melt at 113 F. and remain for a long time fluid after melting. It is insoluble in water, but soluble in 25 parts cold, and 2 parts boiling, spirit of wine, as well as in 5 parts ether. By oxidizing substances it is converted into bitter almond oil and benzoic acid, and by the action of potas- sium hydroxide it is decomposed to cinnyl alcohol and cinnamic acid. Good liquid storax should yield to 90 per cent, alco- hol at least so much soluble matter that the dried resi- due of the filtered alcoholic solution amounts to 65 per cent, of the quantity of storax. Ordinary liquid storax, which has not been stored too long, contains 10 to 20 per cent, of water and about the same quantity of impurities (fragments of plant tissue) which remain behind on treatment with the above-men- tioned solvents. Liquid storax is said to be adulterated with the tur- pentines of some species of larch and pine. Such adul- teration is primarily detected, according to Hager, by the specific gravity. Take up a drop of the balsam RESINS AND BALSAMS. 171 with a knitting-needle, and by heating the needle make it fall into a cold solution of 1 part common salt and 8 parts water. On stirring, the drop must sink, otherwise adulteration with turpentine is very likely. Next bring 5 grammes of the storax into a test-tube, melt it in the water-bath, add J volume of absolute alcohol, and mix by shaking ; then compound the mixture with several times its volume of petroleum -ether, shake vigorously, allow to settle, and decant the layer of petroleum-ether. Repeat twice this shaking with petroleum-ether; then evaporate the petroleum-ether solution in a tared flask in the water-bath. The residue remaining after evapo- ration is colorless, bluish opalescent, and of an agreeable odor ; in the presence of turpentine it is yellowish and has the, not to be mistaken, odor of turpentine. Storax in grains consists of round, longish grains of a brown-black color and smooth, lustrous surface, which soften by the warmth of the hand. It is nothing but liquid storax brought into a granular form and by stor- ing freed more or less from impurities. Ordinary storax (Styrax calamitus or St. vulgar is) is an artificial product prepared by mixing liquid storax with various comminuted vegetable substances. Formerly the above-mentioned bark of the storax tree (Cortex thymiamatis) was only used for this purpose, but at present sawdust and exhausted cinnamon are also taken. This storax forms a reddish or brown-black, humus-like mass, which is generally moist. When dried it is very friable and has a storax-like odor distinctly calling to mind that of cinnamon. Good qualities are abundantly covered with crystalline efflor- escences (of cinnamic acid and styracin) ; poorer quali- 172 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. ties prepared with the addition of sawdust have a musty odor. The admixed vegetable tissue can, according to Wiesner, be readily recognized by boiling the storax with alcohol, and after washing treating with dilute chromic acid, to which a small quantity of sulphuric acid has been added. } Liquid storax was already used for fumigating pur- poses by the ancient Greeks and Jews, and it forms to- day a constituent of fumigating pastilles, essences, etc. Storax tincture furthermore possesses the property of giving more constancy to scents resembling it. Piesse says, in regard to the odor of liquid storax, that it com- bines the agreeable with the disagreeable, it possessing partially an odor similar to that of the tuberose and partially one reminding of coal-tar oil. However, it possesses this disagreeable odor only in a concentrated state ; when finely divided or diluted, it diffuses a very agreeable perfume. \y Under the name American storax, white Peru balsam, white Indian balsam or liquid ambar is found in com- merce a product similar to storax, which is derived from Ijiquicfambar styraciflua, L., a tree indigenous to Mexico and Louisiana. This balsam forms a clear, transparent, brownish-yellow, semi-fluid mass. It has a storax-like odor, and a sharp and pungent taste. It is only partially soluble in alcohol, specifically lighter than water, and shows an acid reaction. It is said to consist of 24 per cent, styracin, 1 per cent, benzoic acid, volatile oil, etc. It is sometimes used for fumigating purposes, but chiefly serves for the adulteration of Tolu balsam. ^ Myrrh (Gummi-resina myrrha, Gummi myrrhd) is a gum resin, the produce of Balsamodendron Ehren- RESINS AND BALSAMS. 173 bergianum, Berg, and, perhaps, also of Balsamodendron Myrrha, Nees. The first-named tree is found in the countries bordering on the Red Sea, and extends into Africa to the Somali Coast, where the principal supply of inyrrh is collected. The gum-resin exudes naturally as a white oil-like mass, which, after hardening, whereby it becomes considerably darker, is collected by the natives and brought chiefly to Berbera, a small seaport opposite Aden, to be exchanged for English and Indian goods. From there, by way of Aden and Bombay, it reaches the European market. In Bombay the first sorting takes place, which is, however, superficial, and hence has to be repeated in Europe (London). According to Parker, ten different resins are admixed with myrrh, especially bdellium resins. In commerce Myrrha eleda and Myrrha vulgaris or in sortis are distinguished. Myrrha eleda, the best quality, occurs in pieces of irregular form and variable sizes, consisting of tears either distinct or agglomerated usually covered with a fine powder or dust. The sur- face is seldom smooth, but generally rough or granular. The color varies, being pale reddish-yellow, red, or red- dish-brown. The fracture is conchoidal, seldom smooth, but rather granular, rough, of a fatty lustre, and some- times shows whitish striaB or veins, or opalesces like flint. The fractured edges are more or less translucent ; thin disks or splinters are translucent or transparent. The specific gravity is, according to Hager, 1.195 to 1.205, and according to Ruickholdt, 1.12 to 1.18. A Myrrha eleda is the better, the more fragile, friable, and paler in color it is, and the more rapidly it ignites and burns with a yellow, sooty flame. Poorer qualities may be 174 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. recognized by the dark-brown color and dirty appear- ance. Myrrh is with difficulty rubbed to a fine powder, this being possible only after drying, which must, how- ever, be done at a very moderate heat in order to pre- vent loss of volatile oil. According to Hager, myrrh consists in 100 parts of about 2.5 parts volatile oil (myrrhol), 25 to 35 parts resin (myrrhin), 55 to 65 parts gum soluble in water, 3 to 8 parts salts, impurities, and water. Water forms with myrrh an emulsion, and dissolves the gum. The resinous constituents are dissolved by spirit of wine. The gum, which forms the portion of the myrrh soluble in water, but insoluble in alcohol, and amounts to from 57 to 59 per cent., is, according to Oscar Koehler, a hydrocarbpn of the formula C 6 H, O 5 . The portion soluble in alcohol is, according to the same chemist, a mixture of various resins, an indiiferent soft resin of the formula C 26 H 34 O 5 , soluble in alcohol and ether, forming the greater portion of it. There are further present two resin acids, one of which has to be considered a bibasic acid of composition C 12 H 16 O 8 , and the other as a monobasic acid of the formula C 26 H 32 O 9 . The principal constituent of the volatile oil of which, according to Koehler, 7 to 8 per cent, is present, while Euickholdt formerly found only 2.18 per cent, corresponds to the formula C, H 14 O. The volatile oil is laevorotatory, and when diluted with bisulphide of carbon becomes, accord- ing to Fliickiger, violet by the action of bromine. An extract of myrrh, prepared with bisulphide of carbon, gives the same reaction with bromine vapor. Hydro- chloric or nitric acid also colors myrrh violet, which also applies to the volatile oil. RESINS AND BALSAMS. 175 Petroleum-ether should, at the utmost, take up 6 per cent, of the myrrh, and the extract must be colorless. Myrrh is frequently contaminated with bark, which forms either a film of cork as thick as paper or a crust of a fibrous and, at the same time, brittle nature. Sand or small pebbles are also frequently mixed with the myrrh. Other varieties of gum or gum-resin, which considerably decrease the value of the product, are often found in the commercial article, the inferior qualities espe- cially being adulterated and mixed with dark pieces of Suakim gum, gum of the plum or cherry tree, bdellium, and similar substances, which are partially moistened with myrrh tincture, and scattered over with myrrh powder. Adulteration with gum-arabic, gum of the plum or cherry tree, which are coated with alcoholic myrrh solution, is recognized by the paler lustre, greater transparency, and mucilaginous taste. Pieces of resin melt on heating, while myrrh only swells up. Bdellium is detected by the dark or black-brown color, toughness, less bitter taste, and by crackling and spitting when held in the flame of a candle, as well as by the reaction of myrrh with nitric acid discovered by Bonastre. By mix- ing 5 cubic centimeters of alcoholic myrrh tincture with 5 to 10 drops of fuming nitric acid, a rose-color coloration passing into red results. Parker gives the following method for testing myrrh : Prepare a tincture of 1 part myrrh and 6 parts spirit of wine. Saturate with this tincture white filtering paper, allow it to drain off, and then wrap it around a glass rod moistened with nitric acid of 1.42 specific gravity. With genuine myrrh the paper immediately becomes deep yellow-brown and then black, while the edges of the paper strip appear dark 176 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. purple-red. When a few drops of the tincture of myrrh are allowed to dry in, a transparent residue remains behind. The tinctures of spurious articles (with the ex- ception of bissabol) give turbid residues. V Myrrh was already in Moses's time an article used in the sacrifices of the Israelites. It seems to have been made use of by Democrates. Dioscorides enumerates eight varieties of it, and Pliny seven, which he ob- tained from Abyssinia. Herodotus and Diodorus Siculus mention Arabia as the home of the myrrh tree. \In perfumery, myrrh is chiefly used for dentifrices and fumigating pastilles and essences., ' Opopanax is the inspissated juice of the root of Opo- ponax Chironium, Koch, or Ferula Opoponax, L. It forms grains or lumps of a red-yellow or brown color, and has a fracture of a waxy lustre. It can be rubbed to a gold-yellow powder. It has a strong and peculiar odor, and a very bitter and balsamic taste. With water it forms an emulsion, while it is only partially soluble in spirit of wine. It contains very little volatile oil, and a resin which melts at 212 F., and is soluble in ether and aqueous alkalies. It further contains gum, organic and inorganic salts, and foreign admixtures. Opopauax is but little used in perfumery. For Extraits the opopanax oil is better adapted than the tincture pre- pared from the gum, the latter coloring the JExtraitdark. ^ Olibanum or Frankincense is the inspissated juice of va- rious varieties of Boswellia, partially indigenous to Africa and partially to Asia. The pu re pieces are pale yellow, sel- dom reddish, transparent, or opaque, brittle, covered with a mealy coating and of a splintery fracture. The specific- gravity of olibanum is 1.22 ; its odor is slightly balsamic, and its taste bitter and pungent. It melts only incom- RESINS AND BALSAMS. 177 pletely when exposed to heat, diffusing an agreeable odor. It consists in 100 parts of 5 to 7 parts of a clear volatile oil, boiling at 323.6 F., and of specific gravity 0.86, 56 parts of acid resin, and 30 to 36 parts gum, which corre- sponds with gum-arabic. With water it forms a milky fluid, and is mostly dissolved by spirit of wine. Selected olibanum (Olibanum electum) is the best commercial va- riety, while Olibanum naturale, 0. in lacrymis, and 0. in sortisj form darker pieces intermingled with separate paler grains, and contaminated by pieces of bark, and wood and sand. Olibanum is only adulterated with saudarac and naturally exuded pine resin, inspissated to tears by ex- posure to the air. The former is recognized by the fracture being glassy and transparent, and the latter by completely dissolving to a clear solution in spirit of wine. Olibanum serves as an addition to fumigating pas- tilles, etc. Sandarac is the resin exuding from the bark of Thuja artieulata, Desf., or CaUitris quadrivalvis, Vent., which grows in Barbary. It forms pale yellow, transparent, brittle grains with a glassy fracture, which have a spe- cific gravity of 1.06 to 1.09 and fuse readily. Its odor is slightly balsamic and its taste somewhat bitter. San- darac softens at 212 F. and melts at 275 F. It dis- solves in hot absolute alcohol, ether, and amyl alcohol, is less soluble in chloroform, petroleum-ether, and vola- tile oils, and insoluble in benzol. In 90 per cent, alco- hol | of it dissolve ; the term sandaracin has been ap- plied to the insoluble portion. According to Unver- dorben, sandarac consists of three different resins. It is sometimes employed in fumigating pastilles. 12 178 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. CHAPTER VI. PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. MUSK is a peculiar concrete secretion obtained from Moschus mochiferus, L., an animal bearing a close re- semblance to the deer in shape and size, and indigenous to the high plateaus of Asia. The musk is contained in an oval, hairy, projecting sac, found only in the male, situated between the umbilicus and the prepuce. It is from 2 to 3 inches long and from 1 to 2 broad. In commerce, several varieties of musk are distin- guished, the principal ones, however, being Tonkin and Kabardin musk. Tonkin, Thibet, or Oriental music, Yunnan music (Mos- chus tonquinensis, or wientalis, or transgangetanus) is the best variety. It comes from China, Tonkin, and Thibet. It consists of sacs of a puifed-up appearance, more round- ish than longish, varying in size, being at the utmost 1.77 inches long, up to 1.57 inches broad and 0.59 to 1.18 inches thick, and weighing from 8.46 drachms to 1 oz. 9.39 drachms each. The hairy side of the sac is con- cave and the other flat. Fig. 21 shows an unshorn Tonkin musk sac of medium size from the concave or hairy side and Fig. 22 the same from the side. The envelop of the sac consists of a double skin, the outer skin being gray-brown. One side of the sac is covered with stiff, yellowish hair with red-brown points, gener- PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 179 ally cut short. The original packages, containing usu- ally 24 sacs each, consist of longish, four-cornered boxes lined with lead-foil and covered outside with some silken stuff. Each sac is separately wrapped in tissue paper. The musk-substance appears as a dark red to black-brown mass intermingled with hair, and forming roundish grains. The odor is penetrating and the taste bitter. Kabardm, Siberian, or Russian musk (Moschus sibirius, or cabardinicus) is a cheaper variety of an inferior qual- ity, which is brought from Mongolia and Siberia. The sacs (Fig. 23) are longish, generally pear-shaped, flatter in proportion to their longitudinal and latitudinal dimen- sions, and not of a puffed-up appearance, the surface being frequently even shrivelled or wrinkled. The outer FIG. 21. FIG. 22. FIG. 23. skin is denser and harder,, and on the convex side cov- ered with longer hair (up to 0.9 inch long), of nearly a silver or brownish color. Towards the edge of the sac the hairs are, however, frequently so trimmed and shorn 180 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. as to give the sac a resemblance to the Tonkin article. The musk-substance inclosed in the sac amounts to from 8.46 drachms to 1 oz. It is somewhat paler, more brown or yellow-brown, soft, almost unctuous, when fresh, but after storing, solid or granular-pulverulent, like ground, burnt coffee. The odor is weak, offensive, more urinose, resembling that of castor, or horse sweat. Moschus ex vesicis is said to be the musk taken from Tonkin sacs. As a rule, however, it consists of a mix- ture of musk substance taken from good sacs which pre- sent a bad appearance, or have been torn, and from sacs of an inferior quality, frequently adulterated with for- eign substances, such as dried blood, dung of birds, weathered bicarbonate of soda, etc. To open a musk sac, cut it with a sharp penknife around where the hairless side joints the hairy side, and empty it by scraping it out upon a sheet of paper. The membranes and hair are then removed by means of pincers. The musk-substance of the Tonkin sacs is generally a heavy, dry-feeling mass; it is partially intermingled with and partially enveloped by small, thin, soft, brown, somewhat transparent membranes and frequently mixed with small hair. It is partially loose and crummy, and partially consists of various lumps or grains of the size of a mustard seed to that of a pea, which are more or less roundish, more seldom angular, softer or harder (but can always be readily cut), of a fatty lustre and black-brown or dark-red color. In fresh sacs, the mass is frequently soft, and, when bruised, somewhat smeary, but never unctuous. On rubbing, it becomes paler in color, and glistening hair-like, paler, gray or whitish- PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 181 yellow particles, sometimes of a crystalline texture, appear. The odor of the musk substance is peculiar, strong, and very constant; it is agreeable only when much diluted. Musk is not a substance of a constant chemical and physical constitution, the reason for this being found in the age and the different foods of the musk animal, the season in which it is killed, and the degree of dryness of the musk-substance. Water dissolves f of good musk and 90 per cent, alcohol J. The alcoholic solu- tion is not precipitated by water. Musk further con- tains fat-like substances, wax, gall-substances (together 10 to 12 per cent.), glue-substances and albumen (6 to 9 per cent.), traces of lactic and butyric acids, phosphates, sulphates and hydrochlorates of the alkalies and alkaline earths, frequently strong traces of ammonium carbonate and a volatile oil, further moisture, humus-substance, and fibrous matter. Musk, when dried, has a weak odor, which gradually becomes stronger on moistening. There are several sub- stances which destroy the musk odor, especially bitter almonds, camphor, sulphur, acids and sulphates. The odor adhering to a mortar in which musk has been rubbed can best be removed by pounding bitter almonds in it. Since, on account of the high price of musk, the musk animal is much hunted, there is a possibility of it be- oming in time extinct. For this reason a substitute has been long searched for, and is believed to have been found, especially, in the American musk-rat (Fiber zibdhicus), which is chiefly hunted for its skin. In this animal the musk is found in two small sacs 182 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. located between the anus and generative organs, and is emitted when the animal becomes excited. According to R. S. Cristiani, this musk is invaluable for the toilet soap industry of America, it being nearly as good and strong as genuine musk. Cristiani has formerly used much of it for scenting soaps, powders, etc., but does not recommend it for essences. When used for soaps, some time is required for the odor to become re- fined, and if a piece of soap scented with it is stored for a few months, it would, according to Crist iani's assertion, be difficult even for an expert perfumer to distinguish the odor from that of genuine Tonkin musk. As possible substitutes for the musk deer may further be mentioned a species of rat indigenous to the West Indies, and an antelope of North Africa. It is also said that musk derived from the Mississippi alligator has been brought into commerce. The sacs are said to be small, the odor somewhat different from that of genuine musk, resembling that of civet, but suitable for perfuming purposes. A process for the preparation of artificial musk has been patented by Dr. Baur, of Gispersleben. According to the specification, toluol is mixed with the halogen compounds of butane and boiled with the addition of aluminium chloride or aluminium bromide. The pro- duct of the reaction is mixed with water and distilled with steam. The fraction passing over between 338 and 392 F. is caught and treated with fuming nitric acid and fuming sulphuric acid. The product obtained is washed with water and alcohol, and crystallized. The artificial musk forms an amorphous white powder, which in time becomes yellow. It is readily soluble PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 183 in 90 per cent, alcohol, but from solutions in weaker alcohol it again crystallizes out at a cool temperature. The odor becomes very pronounced after the addition of 5 drops of ammonia to 1 pound of a one per cent, solution. This artificial product having been in existence but for a short time, it is not possible to come to a final con- clusion as to its availability. However, its odor differs essentially from that of the genuine article, and it can scarcely be employed for fine extracts; if low enough in price it might, however, be suitable for soaps and cheaper perfumes. Musk is very much adulterated, the Chinese being adepts in this sophistication. Dried blood, on account of its resemblance to musk, is among the most common adulterations, but, besides this, sand, iron filings, hair, the dung of birds, wax, asphaltum, and many other substances are introduced. They are mixed with a small portion of musk, the powerful odor of which is communicated to the entire mass, and renders the dis- covery of the fraud sometimes difficult. The bags con- taining the musk should have the characteristics before described as belonging to the natural sac, and present no sign of having been opened. One of the grossest frauds, which is also perpetrated in Europe, consists, according to Hager, in perforating the musk sac with a needle, placing it in strong rum or weak spirit of wine, and, after pressing it with the fingers, washing with spirit of wine and drying in the air. By this means a tincture suitable for perfuming purposes is obtained, while the musk-substance is increased in weight by the absorption of moisture. Sacs thus treated are, however, readily 184 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. recognized, they being, after drying, gnarled and un- even. Good musk-sacs should yield from 50 to 60 per cent, of musk. An admixture of blood is detected by the musk acquiring a putrid odor when moistened with water. The presence of pieces of metal, pebbles, resin, etc., is recognized by the naked eye or with the assistance of a magnifying glass. The microscope reveals, in pure musk, white and brownish, irregularly-formed grains, cells, oil drops, and, generally, also fungoid threads. Genuine musk burns with a white flame and leaves a gray ash, which should not amount to more than from 5 to 8 per cent. In perfumery musk is used for soap, sachet powders, and extracts. By itself it is, however, scarcely employed, not even for the so-called musk soaps or musk extracts. It is chiefly valued by the perfumer for its property of rendering other perfumes used in combination with it more durable and bringing out their scent. For scent- ing soaps the musk must first be prepared. If to be used for milled soaps, it is triturated in a mortar with clear sugar, while for cold stirred soaps, weak potash lye of at the utmost 3 to 5 Be. is poured over it. Weak lye makes the odor more pronounced, while strong lye destroys it. ^ Civet (zibethum) is derived from two animals of the AM genus Viverra. The actual civet cat ( Viverra eivetta, L.) lives in the hottest parts of Africa from the Guinea Coast and the Senegal to Abyssinia, where it is carefully bred for its civet. The product is also obtained from Viverra zibetha, L., indigenous to the Moluccas and Philippines. The civet is secreted in a cavity between the anus and PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 185 the external genitals, and is scraped out with a spoon. It is serai-liquid, unctuous, yellowish, becoming brown and thicker by exposure to the air, of a bitter, disagree- able, fatty taste, and of a peculiar, urinose, disagreeable odor, resembling that of musk which becomes agree- able only when much diluted and mixed with other perfumes. When ignited it burns with a bright flame, leaving behind 3 to 4 per cent, of ash. It is insoluble in water; in spirit of wine it partially dissolves with difficulty, and with greater ease in warm ether and in chloroform. It should form a homogeneous, non-crum- bling mass. According to M. Boutron Chalard, it con- tains free ammonia, stearin, olein, mucus, resin, a yellow coloring substance, salts, and a volatile oil, the latter giving the odor to it. In perfumery, civet is chiefly used as an addition to other perfumes in order to strengthen them and make them more constant. It is also employed for perfuming fine leather articles. l Castor or castweum is a peculiar concrete substance obtained from Castor fiber or the beaver. In both sexes between the anus and external genitals are two pear-shaped sac-like follicles FIG. 24. (Fig. 24) united at their thin ends. The follicles contain, when fresh, a semi-liquid substance which becomes more solid by drying. The castor oc- curring in commerce is generally dried by smoke. In commerce two principal varieties are distinguished : Siberian or Russian and Canadian, English or American castor, the first being the mo&t valuable. The length of a Siberian sac 186 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. varies between 2.36 and 4.72 inches, the width between 0.98 and 2.55 inches, and the thickness between 0.78 and 1.57 inches; it weighs from 1.76 to 8.81 ozs. One of the sacs is generally somewhat smaller than the other. The exterior skin of the sac is almost smooth and, in a dry state, dark brown ; the interior is dirty yellow, inter- mixed with a dense cellular tissue, which envelops the castor-substance and is grown together with it. In a dried state, the latter is dark brown, without lustre, almost friable, of a very strong, peculiar odor, and a pungent, somewhat bitter, aromatic taste. The sacs of Canadian castor are smaller than the Siberian, they being at the utmost 3.15 inches long, 0.98 inch thick, and darker and uneven. The interior mass is resinous, hard, with a lustrous fracture, red- brown, and can be readily pulverized. The odor is weaker, somewhat musty and ammoniacal, and the taste more bitter and less pungent than that of the Siberian castor. Castor is much adulterated pebbles, pieces of lead, dried blood, etc., being frequently found in the sacs. These frauds can generally be detected in cutting the sac? open. Spurious sacs are said to be frequently found among the genuine sacs of Canadian castor. These spurious sacs are prepared by drying a mixture of castor, resin, dragons' blood, etc., in the scrotum of goats. In perfumery, castor is now very seldom used, the perfumers preferring musk and civet, which, certainly, give a somewhat different scent. Ambergris is a fatty, waxy substance, often found float- ing on the sea on the coasts of Arabia, Madagascar, Japan, etc. It is also found in the caecum of the sperm whale PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 187 (Physetus macrocephalus, Schow)^ and is supposed by some to be a morbid secretion in the urinary bladder. According to Mr. Beale, it merely consists of the indu- rated faeces of the animal, perhaps somewhat altered by disease. It has a gray-white color, often with a black streak and a slight agreeable odor, like that of benzoin, which becomes more pronounced on heating. When held for some time in the hand it becomes soft and flexible. It melts at the temperature of boiling water, and, when more strongly heated, volatilizes in the form of a white vapor, leaving but slight traces of ash behind. Its specific gravity is 0.8 to 0.9. It is insoluble in water, sparingly soluble in cold spirit of wine, and more readily so in hot spirit of wine, ether and volatile and fat oils. It is almost completely soluble in absolute alcohol. Though ambergris crumbles readily, it can only with difficulty be converted into coarse powder. With the finger it can be polished like hard soda-soap. The principal constituent of ambergris is ambrin or ambrein, a non-saponifiable fat, which, from a saturated alcoholic solution of ambergris, crystallizes, after stand- ing for some time, in the form of verrucose, whitish or lustrous acicular crystals. According to John, ambergris consists of 85 per cent, ambrin, 12.5 per cent, sweet balsamic extract, further benzoic acid, sodium chloride, and 1.5 per cent, insoluble brown residue. When dis- tilled with water, ambergris yields 13 per cent, of a volatile oil having an agreeable odor. A red-hot iron wire readily penetrates ambergris, and from the hole thus made flows an oily liquid of a strong and agreeable odor. On account of its high price, ambergris is frequently 188 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. adulterated, the commercial article being often nothing but an artificial mixture of benzoin, olibanum, wax, and flo'ur, with other substances, perfumed with musk. Such adulterations are detected by the appearance, proportions of solubility, nature of the fracture and the content of ash. A small quantity of pure ambergris, exposed to heat, melts without forming bubbles or scum. It is easily punctured with* a heated needle, which, when withdrawn, should come out clean and without anything adhering to it, and the characteristic odor of ambergris should be immediately evolved. The surface should be rugged, that with a smooth and uniform surface being generally factitious. In perfumery, ambergris is not so much used on account of its agreeable odor, but rather to make the perfumes more constant. ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 189 CHAPTER VII. ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. IN speaking of the volatile oils used in perfumery, two artificial perfume-materials, artificial oils of bitter almonds and wintergreen have already been mentioned. There can be no doubt that when the chemical construc- tion of volatile oils is better known, chemistry will suc- ceed in preparing still more such combinations, valuable for perfumery, or in converting cheap volatile oils into more valuable ones, as has, for instance, been done by Bouchardat and Lafont, who have successfully converted oil of turpentine into oil of lemons. These chemists rectified French oil of turpentine at exactly 311 to 314.6 F., dissolved in the distillate, which amounted to 120 grammes, an equal quantity (120 grammes) of glacial acetic acid, cooled the mixture and then carefully added, so that the temperature never exceeded 104 F., 88 grammes of crystallized chromic acid dissolved in a sufficient quantity of acetic acid. Notwithstanding that the greater portion of the oil of turpentine remained un- oxidized, a thorough reaction took place, and the product of decomposition proved to be a hydrocarbon, boiling at from 345.2 to 352.4 F., to which Bouchardat and Lafont have applied the term "terpilene." The prop- erties of this hydrocarbon, especially its boiling point, corresponded with those of oil of lemons, its odor also 190 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. resembling that of the latter, but it contained about one- sixth cymol which it was impossible to remove. Though thus far this artificial oil of lemons is of no importance for perfumery, it is of interest as showing the possibility of converting one volatile oil into another. The artificial musk, spoken of under " Musk/ 7 cannot be classed with the previously-mentioned artificial per- fumed-materials. The odoriferous principle of the natural and artificial musk have nothing in common, the odor depending not on a common chemical com- bination. Besides the artificial perfume-materials already men- tioned, but a few others are employed in perfumery, viz : Cumarin, hetiotropin, vanillin, and nitrobenzol, or oil of mirbane. Another series of artificial perfume- materials, the so-called fruit ethers, have also been recommended for perfumery purposes. Although such products are sometimes used, their employment is not advisable, since they produce an irritating effect upon the bronchial tubes and respiratory organs, and fre- quently cause headache. Cumarin. The agreeable odor of new-mown hay is chiefly due to the sweet-scented vernal grass (Anthoxan- thum odoratum, Z.). This grass contains an odoriferous substance, the cumarin. The latter is also found in many other plants ; for instance, in the tonka bean (the seeds of Dipterix odorata), in the sweet woodruff (As- perula odorata), and, combined with melilotic acid, in the melilot (Melilotus officinalis, Descr.). Cumarin forms small, colorless crystals of a silky lustre. It is very hard, cracks between the teeth, shows a smooth fracture, and sinks in water. It has ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 191 a very agreeable aromatic odor, which, on rubbing the substance with the fingers, becomes like that of oil of bitter almonds, and has a bitter, warm, and pungent taste. When pure it melts at 152.6 F., but when containing fat, like that separated from tonka beans, at from 104 to 122 F. Its boiling point lies at 554 F. ; it vola- tilizes, however, at far lower temperatures, diffusing an odor resembling that of oil of bitter almonds, and sub- limating in white needles. It is soluble in alcohol, ether, acetic acid, fat, and volatile oils. Of cold water (59 F.) 400 parts are, according to Buchner, required for its solution, but of boiling water only 45 parts. Tonka beans are the ripe seeds of Dipterix odorata. They are much used in perfumery on account of their content of cumarin, aud formerly constituted the initial point for its manufacture. In commerce two varieties are distinguished, viz., Dutch tonka beans, derived from Dipterix odorata, Willd., indigenous to the forests of Guiana, and English tonka beans, from Dipterix oppo- sitifolia, Willd., indigenous to Cayenne. The Dutch tonka bean is 1.18 to 1.57 inches long, 0.39 to 0.59 inch wide, and 0.27 to 0.43 inch thick. It is generally slightly curved, provided under the point with the hilum, and covered with a thin, fragile, brown- black or black skin of a fatty lustre, upon which small crystals of cumarin are generally found, so that it ap- pears coated, especially in the wrinkles, with a whitish dust. The kernel consists of two yellow-brownish oleife- rous catyledons, between which layers of cumarin are generally found. The odor is agreeable, resembling that of melilot, and the taste aromatic bitter. Dutch tonka beans contain fat, sugar, malic acid, and malate 192 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. of lime ; further, starch, gum, and 1 to 5 per cent, of cumarin (C 9 H 6 O ). The English tonka beans are smaller, white-yellowish inside, nearly black outside, and of inferior quality to the Dutch beans. From tonka beans, cumarin may be obtained by two different methods. One method consists in repeatedly extracting the bruised beans with spirit of wine, distill- ing the latter off from the extract, and mixing the resi- due with cold water, whereby cumarin contaminated with fat is precipitated. To remove the fat, bring the whole to the boiling point, filter the hot solution through a moist filter upon which the fat is retained, and allow to cool, whereby the greater portion of the cumarin crystallizes out; the remaining small portion is obtained by evaporating the mother-lye. According to the other method, the bruised tonka beans are distilled with water. After 24 hours the greater portion of the cumarin separates in a crystalline form. The residue remaining in solution can be with- drawn from the water by shaking with petroleum-ether and subsequent evaporation of the solvent. From one pound of good tonka beans, up to 4 drachms of cumarin may be obtained. Cumarin is sometimes also obtained by purifying by recrystallization the debris found in the original boxes of tonka beans, which chiefly consists of cumarin. Perkin has recently succeeded in artificially preparing cumarin from salicylic acid. By boiling the sodium salt of the latter in acetic anhydride for a few minutes and then pouring into water, an oil-like body is sepa- rated, whilst sodium acetate passes into solution. The former is a mixture of acetic anhydride, salicylic acid ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 193 and curaariD ; in distilling, the latter passes over last (at 554 F.), and congeals in the receiver to a crystalline mass. Cumarin is now synthetically prepared by several firms, that brought into the market by Schimmel & Co., of Leipsic, especially being of excellent quality. Al- though artificial cumarin is considerably lower in price than that obtained from tonka beans, most perfumers still prefer the extract from tonka beans prepared by themselves. There is, however, no good reason for this, since a change in the respective receipts for perfumes presents no difficulties, 8.46 drachms of curnarin corre- sponding to 2.2 Ibs. of best tonka beans. Heliotropin or piper onal is of great importance in the manufacture of perfumes. It forms small, colorless prismatic crystals, which have an agreeable odor of heli- otrope. Upon the tongue heliotropin produces the same sensation as oil of peppermint under the same conditions, the sensation being, however, more lasting. It melts at about 104 F., and volatilizes at a higher temperature without leaving a residue. It is soluble in alcohol and ether, and insoluble in cold water ; in hot water it melts to an oily liquid which floats upon the water. Exposed to the action of heat and air, heliotropin ac- quires an uncomely appearance, balls together and, under very unfavorable circumstances, turns brown. It is then entirely decomposed and useless, and, hence, should be kept in summer in as cool a place as possible. A temperature of 95 F. has already an injurious effect upon the perfume, and it is best not to buy it at all in the hot summer months. To preserve the perfume in its entire freshness, it is advisable for consumers in hot 13 194 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. climates to at once dissolve the heliotropin in alcohol and to keep the solution in a cool place. Pepper serves as the initial point for heliotropin or piperonal, the white variety being the best for the pur- pose. To obtain piperine, contained in varying quan- ties (7 to 9 per cent.) in pepper, the latter is repeatedly extracted with boiling alcohol. The extract is then evaporated to one-third its volume, or the greater por- tion of the alcohol is distilled off, and the resinous mass, obtained after the addition of water, is repeatedly washed in water with the addition of a small quantity, of potash or soda lye, dissolved in alcohol and purified by repeated recrystallization. To convert the white-yellow piperine thus obtained into potassium piperate it is, together with equal parts of potassium hydroxide and 5 to 6 parts of alcohol, kept gently boiling for 24 hours in a well-closed flask provided with an ascending Liebig cooler. A ca- pacious flask should be used, as the mass pounds quite vigorously. After cooling, the precipitate, which is ob- tained in yellowish, lustrous lamina, is separated through a filter from the dark-brown mother-lye, washed with cold alcohol and several times recry stall i zed from hot water. A further discoloration may be effected by the addition of animal charcoal. The potassium piperate thus obtained forms nearly colorless prisms in verucose groups, which, however, turn yellow when exposed to light. By boiling the alcoholic mother-lye with -J of the previously used potash- lye, further small quantities of potassium piperate may be obtained. To obtain piperonal from the potassium piperate, dis- solve 1 part of the latter in 40 to 50 parts of hot water, ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 195 and then slowly introduce, with constant stirring, a solu- tion of 2 parts potassium permanganate in 50 parts of water. This precaution is absolutely necessary, as other- wise the piperonal formed would be partially further oxi- dized and lost. The paste-like mass formed is passed, while still hot, through a straining cloth, and the residue repeatedly washed with boiling water until it shows nothing more of the characteristic odor of heliotrope. The wash-waters are combined with the first filtrate, and subjected to distillation over a free fire. The first distillates are richest in piperonal, it gener- ally separating already in the cooler. The fractionally caught distillate is allowed to stand one or two days in as cool a place as possible, whereby the greater portion of the piperonal separates in a crystalline form or in fine lamina. To obtain the piperonal still remaining dis- solved in the water, the mother-lye, after the separation of the crystals through a filter, may be repeatedly agi- tated with ether, whereby the piperonal dissolves in the ether. The latter is carefully distilled off at as low a temperature as possible (104 to 122 F.) in the water- bath or allowed naturally to evaporate. Vanillin. Vanilla is the not entirely ripe, pod-like, capsular fruit (wrongly called pod), of a tropical orchid (Vanilla plani/olia, Andrews), which is cultivated in Mexico, the West Indies, and South America. It is extensively used for flavoring, and its odoriferous sub- stance is highly valued in perfumery. The cross-section of the capsule is thick and fleshy, filled with very small, black, lustrous seeds stuck together by a gummy balsam with which they are coated. The capsule has a sourish taste and has no value, the seeds, or rather the balsam 196 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. enveloping the seeds, being the substance on which the odor and taste of vanilla depend. When the vanilla fruit becomes ripe, the capsule opens and empties its content of seeds in the form of a balsam-like mass. The lustrous black-brown surface of vanilla is frequently coated with white, delicate crystals, which were formerly taken for benzoic acid. Bley and Vee first recognized them as a peculiar substance, which was further examined by Gobley and Stokkebye. This sub- stance, to which Gobley applied the term vanillin, is the chief ordoriferous substance of vanilla. It is deposited upon the vanilla-crystals, when the latter are densely and closely packed together and for some time exposed to a heat of about 77 F. Of vanillin, vanilla contains 1.5 to 2.75 per cent.; the Mexican variety containing 1.69 to 1.32 per cent., the Bourbon No. I, 2.48 to 1.91 per cent., Bourbon No. II, 1.55 to 0.75 per cent., and the Java, 2.75 to 1.56 per cent. It is singular, that the highly valued Mexican vanilla has, generally speaking, a lower content of vanillin than the other varieties. At present, vanillin is prepared artificially. Tiemann and Harmann first showed that by the oxidation of coniferin, a glucoside occurring in the cambial sap of the Coniferce, a product, perfectly identical with the vanillin prepared from vanilla, is obtained. The coniferin is obtained by barking the pine or silver fir, scraping together the sap under the bark together with a portion of the liber and pouring it into a vessel. The sap is then pressed off', boiled to separate the albumin, filtered, evaporated to one-fifth its volume, and set aside to crystallize. One hundred quarts of sap are said to yield from 1 to 2 pounds of coniferm-crystals. By now ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 197 allowing an aqueous coniferin-solution to run into a heated mixture of 10 parts potassium bichromate, 15 parts, concentrated sulphuric acid, and 80 parts water, and heating for 3 hours in a flask with back-flow cooler, a liquid is obtained from which ether takes up a yellow oil. After treating the latter with animal charcoal, dis- solving in ether and evaporating the latter, there remain colorless, acicular crystals of the odor and taste of vanilla. These crystals consist of vanillin contaminated with some vanillic acid. To separate the latter, purify with acid sodium sulphite and recrystallize. After this operation, vanillin represents a nearly white crystalline powder which melts at from 176 to 177.8 F. In this form it is brought into commerce as a complete sub- stitute for vanilla, 5.64 drachms of it corresponding to about 1 pound of vanilla. A medium-sized pine tree is said to yield vanillin of the value of 80 marks ($19.20). Vanillin may also be prepared by oxidation from eugenol. Oil of cloves is diluted with three times its volume of ether and agitated with weak caustic potash solution to fix the eugenol on the potash. By acidulat- ing the alkaline solution and shaking with ether, the eugenol is collected. After distilling 0ff the ether, the eugenol is converted with acetic anhydride into aceteugol, and the latter oxidized with dilute, moderately-warmed potassium permanganate solution. The filtrate is made slightly alkaline, concentrated, then compounded with acid and the vanillin extracted with ether. Vanillin (C 8 H 8 O 3 ) forms small colorless prisms of a strong vanilla odor, a warm, vanilla taste, and an acid reaction. It is readily soluble in hot water, alcohol, 198 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. ether, chloroform, fat and volatile oils, as well as in solutions of caustic alkalies and alkaline carbonates. It melts when heated to from 176 to 177.8 F. ; at a higher temperature it sublimates without leaving a residue. According to a notice published in the "Deutsch- Amerikanischen Apotheker Zeitung," vanillin adulterated with benzoic acid has occurred in the United States. A sample subjected to examination is said to have been nothing but benzoic acid perfumed with vanillin. Such an adulteration can be detected with the microscope, since vanillin crystallizes in acicular crystals, and ben- zoic acid in lamina, which can be readily recognized. Pure vanillin melts at 176 F., while the melting points of such mixtures are considerably higher, it being in one case at 249 F. By extracting such mixture with thin sodium carbonate solution, benzoic acid passes into solution. After neutralizing with hydrochloric acid, the filtrate yields with ferric chloride a fawn-brown precipi- tate of ferric benzoate, and on adding hydrochloric acid in excess, the benzoic acid, which dissolves with great difficulty in cold water, is precipitated. By treating the latter, or the ferric benzoate, with dilute sulphuric acid and magnesium,, the benzoic acid is reduced to benzal- dehyde, which is recognized by its characteristic odor of oil of bitter almonds. Nitrobenzol is obtained by treating benzol, or a mix- ture of it, with toluol and their higher homologues, with strong nitric acid, or a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acids, washing the product of reaction with water and soda, caustic soda or ammonia, expelling the unaltered hydrocarbons with steam and rectifying the residue. ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 199 Three varieties distinguished by their boiling points and odor occur in commerce. The nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane (essence de mirbane) is the so-called light nitro- benzol, which boils at from 4(tt % lo'^llF F. The heavier varieties boil at a higher temperature and have a more or less disagreeable odor; they are used in the manufacture of aniline and aniline colors. Pure oil of mibrane is pale yellow, the finest qualities being colorless and almost as clear as water. It has an agreeable odor resembling that of oil of bitter almonds, a specific gravity of 1.186 to 1.2 = 25 B&, and con- geals at 3v.4^F. to a crystalline mass. It is scarcely soluble in water, sparingly so in alcohol and with diffi- culty in watery spirit of wine; it is miscible in all pro- portions with ether, benzine, volatile oils, aud most fat oils. Oil of mirbane is largely manufactured in England, but the German product is now generally preferred, it being purer and does not impart to soap perfumed with it a yellowish tinge. The finest oil of mirbane is pre- pared from pure crystallizable benzol, and again purified by washing with potassium bichromate and sulphuric acid, and by rectification with steam. Pure nitrobenzol suffers no change by boiling with soda lye, while the poorly rectified product colors the lye yellow or brown. Nitrobenzol is frequently adulterated with spirit of wine, which is recognized by shaking the oil with fat oil of almonds ; in the presence of spirit of wine a tur- bid mixture is formed. By shaking nitrobenzol con- taining spirit of wine with an equal volume of water in a graduated cylinder, its volume decreases. 200 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Oil of mirbane is much used for perfuming soaps, but even the finest quality of it cannot replace oil of bitter almonds for fine soaps and perfumery. Great care has to "be exercised in storing, as well as in working, nitro- benzol, it igniting very readily, and it is also poisonous. Even the vapors, when inhaled for some time, may pro- duce symptoms of poisoning, which consist in the skin acquiring a leaden color, and heavy feelings in the limbs with cold extremities, especially the hands and feet. FRUIT ETHERS. At the London Exhibition, in 1851, various products called apple oil, pear oil, pine-apple oil, etc., were shown. They were examined by A. W. Hof- mann, and found to consist of solutions of certain ethers in alcohol. Since then the manufacture has greatly in- creased and large quantities are now brought into com- merce under the name of fruit ethers orfru>'t essences. Fruit ethers are fluids possessing an agreeable, refresh- ing odor closely resembling that of some fruits. For this reason they are used in confectionery, in the manu- facture of liqueurs and also as a substitute for volatile oils, in the manufacture of perfumery. Chemically, fruit ethers are combinations of an organic acid acetic, buty- ric, valerianic, etc. with a so-called alcohol radicle, such as ethyl and amyl. The preparation of fruit ethers being connected with many difficulties, is seldom attempted by perfumers, especially as products of an excellent quality can at a low rate be procured from chemical laboratories making a specialty of their manufacture. However, for the sake of completeness, a brief description of the fabri- cation of the principal ethers used in their preparation shall here be given. ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 201 Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, C 5 H n O.CJH 3 O, is prepared by mixing 1 part of amyl alcohol with 1 part of concentrated sulphuric acid, and distilling the mix- ture with 2 parts of potassium acetate. The distillate is washed with water, to which some carbonate of soda has been added, and then rectified over magnesia. It forms a colorless liquid of an agreeable fruity odor. It boils, according to Kopp, at 280 F. and, at 59 F., its specific gravity is 0.8692. For use in perfumery, the ether is best prepared, ac- cording to Fehling's directions, by heating for some time at a temperature of 212 F. 1 part of glacial acetic acid with J part of sulphuric acid and one part of amyl alcohol. By then adding water the ether is separated. By this process distillation is avoided. Acetic ethyl ether or ethyl acetate, C 2 ,H 3 O.O.C 2 H 5 . Acetic ether is formed by the decomposition of sodium acetate by ethyl sulphuric acid : rOC 2 H, + C 2 H 3 O.ONa = SO *\OH Ethyl sulphuric Sodium acetate. + C Z H 3 O.OC 2 H 5 Acetic ether. One molecule of sulphuric acid or 98 parts is mixed with one molecule of alcohol or 46 parts, or with 1 molecule of alcohol of 90 per cent, which contains 85.75 per cent, of absolute alcohol, hence with 53.6 parts of alcohol, and distilled with 1 molecule or 82 parts of anhydrous sodium acetate. Since commercial sulphuric 202 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. acid always contains 5 or 6 per cent, of water, this has to be taken into consideration, and 105 to 106 parts of it have to be used in order to decompose the entire quantity of sodium acetate. The crude sodium acetate found in com- merce may be used. It is nearly white and at the ut- most contaminated by traces of sulphuric acid and chlorine, which in this case are not injurious. The crystallized salt is heated in an iron kettle whereby it melts in its water of crystallization. With constant stirring the water is then completely evaporated until an entirely dry mass of salt remains behind. The latter may be quite strongly heated without fear of destroying the acetic acid. The dried salt is immediately powdered, passed through a medium fine sieve and kept for use in well-closed vessels. On a large scale the distillation of the ether may be effected in an iron kettle, which is provided with a well-fitting lid and connected by a copper head with a cooling apparatus a worm lying in cold water. Bring into the kettle the required quantity of concentrated sul- phuric acid, add, with vigorous stirring, the alcohol and allow the mixture to rest for 24 hours. Then throw the dry sodium acetate into the mixture, mix it thoroughly, by stirring, with the ethyl sulphuric acid, and, after luting all the joints of the apparatus, heat at first mode- rately. Distillation proceeds quietly and uniformly, the fire being regulated according to how the ether runs off from the worm. Such uniform distillation is, however, only attained by the use of the sodium acetate in the form of powder, and thoroughly mixing it with the acid. If large pieces of the salt are present or the powdered salt balls together, the formation of ether sometimes takes ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 203 place so suddenly that the vapors cannot condense in the cooling apparatus, but escape violently, or if they cannot escape rapidly from the condenser, may even burst the apparatus. The reason for this is that the larger pieces float in the superheated acid without being saturated by it, and, when they suddenly collapse, form a mass of ether- vapors. Distillation is continued until that which at last passes over is not inflammable. With the above-mentioned proportions 88 parts of acetic ether are formed, but as some water always passes over, distillation need not be interrupted until the receiver contains at least 90 parts of crude ether. The crude ether always contains more or less water, some alcohol, and a small quantity of free acetic acid. With the above-mentioned proportions, the content of alcohol can, however, be only very small. To neutralize the acetic acid, add some burnt magnesia or shake with carbonate of soda solution until the acid reaction disap- pears. For the absorption of the water and alcohol, add as much sharply dried (not fused) calcium chloride as the fluid will dissolve, and then let it stand with an excess of the salt for one day. The calcium chloride combines with the water and alcohol and separates as a heavy layer beneath the ether. The latter is decanted off and brought into a rectifying vessel a copper still, heated by steam, and provided with a cooling pipe. The ether is distilled off at a moderate heat, the last portion, about T ^, being caught in a special receiver, to be again rectified at the next operation. According to Grossschopf, 40 Ibs. of pulverized anhy- drous sodium acetate, together with a cooled mixture of 204 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 46 Ibs. of concentrated sulphuric acid and 37 Ibs. of 95 per cent, alcohol, free from fusel oil, are distilled in a copper still heated by steam. Distillation is continued with constant stirring by means of an apparatus in the still, until no more fluid smelling and tasting of acetic ether passes over. The crude distillate, amounting to. 55 or 56 Ibs., is brought into bottles which are filled f full. The bottles are then filled up with water and potassium carbonate is added until the fluid, after shaking, shows no acid reaction. The aqueous fluid beneath the ether is then drawn off by means of a siphon, and the ether several times washed by shaking with water and allow- ing to settle. Since the wash-water absorbs a quite con- siderable quantity of ether, it is collected and subjected to rectification, whereby an alcoholic acetic ether is ob- tained. The ether, being freed from acetic acid and alcohol by neutralization and washing, is brought in contact with fused calcium chloride to free it from water, and finally rectified over magnesia. In this manner 36 to 37 Ibs. of pure acetic ether are obtained. Acetic ether is a clear, colorless fluid of a pleasant, etheral odor. It boils at 170.6 F., and at 59 F. its specific gravity is 0.9068. Pure acetic ether dissolves in 11 to 12 parts of water; a content of alcohol or the addition of water increases its solubility. Hence, its ibility in water is a criterion of its purity. nzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, C 7 H 5 O.OC 2 H 5 , is most readily prepared by mixing 4 parts of alcohol, 2 parts of crystallized benzoic acid, and 1 part fuming hydro- chloric acid, and for some time heating the mixture in a flask. The benzoic acid is thereby gradually and com- pletely converted into ether. The fluid is mixed with ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 205 water, whereby the ether is completely separated. It is several times washed with carbonate of soda solution, and, for the purpose of withdrawing the last trace of free acid, distilled over lead oxide. It forms a colorless oil of an aromatic odor, specific gravity 1.0502, and boils at l2 FT In cold water it is insoluble. How- ever, like all varieties of ether, it dissolves readily in alcohol and ether^ Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate, C 4 H 7 O.OC 2 H a . The preparation of this ether must be preceded by that of butyric acid. The latter is obtained, according to Bensch, by dissolving 6 Ibs. of cane sugar and 8 drachms of tartaric acid in 13 quarts of hot water, allowing the liquid to stand a few days and then adding 7 ozs. of old rotten cheese, which has been stirred up in 4 quarts of skimmed sour milk and 3 Ibs. of finely pulverized chalk. The mixture must be kept at a uniform temperature of from 86 to 95 F. for some weeks, from time to time mixing it by stirring, and replacing the water lost by evaporation. By the action of a ferment the sugar is first converted into lactic acid. In 10 to 12 days the entire mass con- geals to a paste of calcium lactate. By now allowing fermentation to proceed without interruption, it gradu- ally enters another stage ; gas bubbles consisting of car- bonic acid and hydrogen rise up, until in the course of 5 or 6 weeks the process is finished. This is recognized by the 'fluid becoming quiet, no more gas being evolved. The fluid then contains a solution of calcium lactate, which is converted into the corresponding sodium salt by the addition of 8 Ibs. of crystallized soda. It is then filtered and concentrated by evaporation to 5 quarts. By 206 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. adding 5} Ibs. of sulphuric acid, diluted with an equal volume of water, butyric acid is separated as a dark- colored oily mass. The crude butyric acid thus obtained and freed from water by shaking with calcium chloride, is a mixture of acetic, butyric, and capric acids, but does not contain propionic and valerianic acids. To obtain from it pure butyric acid, fractional distillation is required. For manufacturing on a large scale, a copper distilling appa- ratus with silver head and silver cooling pipe is used, the bulb of a thermometer being placed in the head. In the first rectification, the receiver is changed after the thermometer has risen to 311 F. ; the portion passing over between 311 and 329 F. is caught up by itself, and the receiver being again changed, distillation is con- tinued until finished. The first distillate contains mostly acetic acid, besides a small quantity of butyric acid, the second the greater portion of the butyric acid besides a little acetic and capric acids, while the third consists chiefly of capric acid. For preparing butyric ether for technical purposes, the fraction passing over between 311 and 329 F. is sufficiently pure. To obtain chemi- cally pure butyric acid, the rectification of the portion passing over between 311 and 329 F. is in the same manner repeated, until finally a product with a constant boiling point at 324.2 F. is obtained. Butyric acid fermentation proceeds more rapidly by using, instead of rotten cheese, putrefying meat, and in place of sugar, starch paste or mashed boiled potatoes, 1 part of meat to 4 parts of starch or a corresponding quantity of potatoes being employed. The same pro- ducts are formed as in the preceding process, but much ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 207 more rapidly, fermentation being finished, according to Schubert, in 5 to 6 days. Butyric acid, C 4 H 7 O.OH, or C 3 H 7 COOH, is a liquid of a very sour taste and odor, and at an intense cold con- geals to a crystalline mass which melts at 32 F. In a pure state it boils at 324.2 F. It is soluble in water, but separates again if soluble salts are added to this solu- tion. Its specific gravity, after being completely freed from water, is 0.974. Besides the normal butyric acid, there is known another one called isobyteric acid or dimethyl 'acetic acid. It is distinguished from the normal acid by being less soluble in water and by its boiling point, which lies at 309.2 F. It occurs in St. John's bread or carob, in the volatile oil from Arnica montana and in croton oil. Butyric ether is formed by mixing 2 parts of butyric acid with 2 parts of alcohol and 1 part of sulphuric acid. The fluid is heated to 176 F., and, after being for several hours kept at that temperature, is poured into cold water, whereby the ether separates as an oily fluid. It is then separated from the aqueous solution, washed with water to which some chalk has been added for the neutralization of the free acid, and finally the water is withdrawn from the ether by, for several days, leaving it in contact with calcium chloride. To obtain it entirely pure, it is only necessary to distil it once. It forms a clear, very mobile fluid of a pine-apple odor, and a specific gravity of 0.900. It boils at 249.8 F. Commercial butyric ether, large quantities of which are used for the preparation of the so-called pine-apple ether or essence, is seldom pure, it being generally ob- tained from simply rectified butyric acid. According to 208 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. another method, which is, however, not as profitable, it is obtained by distilling butter-soap with alcohol and sul- phuric acid. For this purpose, bring 20 pounds of butter-soap, cut up in small pieces, into a distilling appa- ratus, pour over it 10 pounds of 90 per cent, alcohol and heat moderately until the soap is dissolved. Since a portion of the alcohol evaporates thereby, add 10 pounds more of alcohol and then 20 pounds of sulphuric acid. On further heating, a fluid of a very agreeable odor distils over, which is an alcoholic solution of the ethers of the volatile acids found in butter. Towards the end of the operation, in consequence of the further progress of decomposition, a development of sulphurous acid generally takes place. This is removed from the distillate by allowing it to remain for several days in contact with finely-pulverized pyrolusite (peroxide of manganese) and rectifying over burnt magnesia. In the first distillation, the heavy volatile acids of the butter remain behind ; they are freed from the excess of sul- phuric acid and the sulphate of sodium or potassium by washing with hot water, and can be utilized in the manufacture of soap. The butyric ether obtained from butter-soap is far from being pure butyric ether, it containing, besides it, a mixture of various kinds of ether derived from the volatile acids caproic, capric, and caprylic acids. How- ever, these varieties of ether possess similar properties to that of butyric acid ; in alcoholic solutions their taste and odor are nearly alike, and hence can be employed in this mixture for the preparation of essences of an agreeable odor and taste. A suitable material for the preparation of butyric ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 209 ether is also the St. John's bread or carob, the pods of Sitequa dulcis. Kedtenbacher established in them the occurrence of about 2 per cent, butyric acid, which Gruenzweig later on proved to be isobutyric acid. Be- sides butyric acid and other volatile acids, St. John's bread contains about 40 per cent, of fermentable varieties of sugar, which can be utilized after their conversion to butyric acid. For this purpose Stinde has proposed the following process : Convert the pods together with the seeds to a coarse powder ; bring 100 Ibs. of this powder into a capacious barrel placed in a warm place, and pour sufficient water of 82.5 F. over it, to form a thin paste ; after 4 to 5 days add 24 Ibs. of whiting and await fer- mentation. The paste, which gradually becomes thicker, is from time to time stirred, and, if necessary, a small quantity of lukewarm water added. In summer fer- mentation is finished in six weeks, after which the preparation of the ether is proceeded with. For this purpose bring the paste into a still provided with a steam jacket ; the evening before mix 36 Ibs. of concentrated sulphuric acid with 60 Ibs. of alcohol of 95 per cent., and add the mixture to the paste in the still ; then lute the joints of the distilling apparatus, and quickly introduce steam. Distillation soon commences, and, when once introduced, is continued with a moderate admission of steam. The first pound of the distillate is caught by itself, and, after changing the receiver, distillation is continued until but little passes over, even with an increased ad- mission of steam. Thus an abundant yield of alcoholic butyric ether is obtained. When distillation is finished 20 Ibs. more of alcohol may be brought into the still ; 14 210 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. the distillate obtained thereby being still rich in butyric ether. The St. John's bread used should be of the best quality, free from worms and mould, as otherwise the ether would not possess the pure, agreeable odor char- acteristic of butyric ether. Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate, CHO.OC 2 H 5 . This ether is also much manufactured for the prepara- tion of the so-called essences which are employed for the purpose of imitating the odor of plants, fruits, etc. It is formed by the action of formic acid upon alcohol, or by bringing ethyl sulphuric acid, or a mixture of al- cohol and sulphuric acid, in contact with formates, or finally by bringing formic acid at the moment of its formation in contact with alcohol. ' The most simple process is that recommended by Lor in : Into a capacious distilling apparatus connected with the cooling pipe, so that the distillate constantly flows back, bring 1 part, by weight, of glycerin of the con- sistency of syrup, add \ of its weight of crystallized oxalic acid and the same quantity of alcohol of 90 to 95 per cent. With moderate heating a vigorous devel- opment of gas soon takes place. The oxalic acid in contact with the glycerin splits into formic acid and carbonic acid, according to the following equation : /COOH = CHO.OH + CO 2 . \COOH Oxalic acid. Formic acid. Carbonic acid. The glycerine does not undergo alteration thereby. The nascent formic acid converts the alcohol present ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 211 into formic ether, water being separated. When, after continued heating, the development of carbonic acid abates, add the same quantities of oxalic acid and alco- hol to the contents of the still, heat again until but little carbonic acid is evolved, and then add, twice in succes- sion, the same quantities of oxalic acid and alcohol as before, until finally as much oxalic acid is consumed as glycerin has been employed. When the evolution of carbonic acid ceases, the receiver is reversed and the ether distilled off. The glycerin remaining behind is again concentrated to the consistency of syrup, and may be re-used. The distillate is freed from free acid by the addition of magnesia, and the alcohol and water are separated by shaking with calcium chloride, after which the pure ether is obtained by rectification. Formic ether is colorless, thinly-fluid, of a pleasant smell, specific gravity 0.945, boiling point 130 F., soluble in cold water, and miscible in every proportion with alcohol and ether. Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, C 2 H 5 .ONO. In a pure state this ether is best prepared according to the method given by E. Kopp. It consists in bringing equal vol- umes of alcohol and ordinary nitric acid together with copper filings into a distilling apparatus, which is so arranged that the vapors first pass through a flask filled with water of 77 F., then through a calcium chloride tube, and are finally condensed in a receiver surrounded by snow and common salt. The nitric acid is first de- composed by the copper, nitrous acid being thereby de- veloped, which is so transposed that its radicle NO occupies the position of the typical hydrogen in the 212 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. alcohol, while the rest of the acid forms water with the hydrogen of the alcohol. By the reaction such a quan- tity of heat is liberated that the process requires assist- ance by external heating only towards the end of the operation. In the receiver is then a pale yellow fluid having the taste and odor of apples and, at 59 F., a specific gravity of 0.947. According to Liebig, the boiling point of nitrous ether lies at 61.5 F. ; hence it can be condensed only by careful cooling, and has to be kept in glass tubes fused together. In water it is but sparingly soluble, but readily so in alcohol. By the addition of water it is separated from the alcoholic solution. Mohr has modified Kopp's method as follows : Mix alcohol of 0.833 specific gravity, water, and nitric acid of 1.200 specific gravity, each 24 parts and add 4 parts of copper filings. Of this mixture draw off 24 parts of distillate, mix the latter with litmus tincture and neu- tralize the free acid by adding, drop by drop, solution of caustic potash or soda until the litmus tincture be- comes blue. Rectify the distillate and catch of it 8 parts. Compound the latter with 16 parts alcohol of 0.833 specific gravity, whereby the product is made equal to the quantity of alcohol originally used. The product is kept in glasses holding from 2 to 3 ozs. each. This alcoholic nitrous ether is of a yellow color, very strong and has a pure odor. In England and America, nitrous ether is much used for aromatizing whiskies and for other purposes. Ac- cording to Stinde* it is prepared on a large scale as follows : * Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 184, 367. ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 213 A stone- ware flask of at least 120 Ibs. capacity, such as is used for the preparation of chlorine, is so placed upon a tripod in a sheet-iron cylinder that the neck pro- jects over the edge of the cylinder. The space between the flask and the walls of the cylinder is completely filled with mats or coarse pack-cloth. A steam-pipe enters the lower part of the cylinder, while a cock placed on the bot- tom of the cylinder serves for discharging the condensed water. The cylinder is closed by a sheet-iron cover pro- vided in the centre with a hole through which passes the neck of the flask. The flask is filled with 60 Ibs of 90 per cent, alcohol free from fusel oil, to which, in small portions, 15 Ibs. of crude nitric acid of 36 Be. are added. The neck of the flask is provided with an exactly- fitting tube of pure tin. The tube is bent twice at a right angle, and one end is provided with an annular piece to prevent it from slipping too far into the interior of the flask. The joints between the tube and the neck of the flask are luted with a stiff paste of flaxseed meal, a wet strip of linen being, for greater security, wrapped over the cement. The other end of the tin-tube, which here occupies the place of a still-head, is in the same manner connected with a long tin-worm lying in a large cooling vat. Everything being prepared, but little steam is at first introduced into the iron cylinder in order to slowly warm the apparatus. When this is done the admission of steam is gradually increased. The mats or pack-cloth placed between the walls of the cylinder and the flask prevent the latter from bursting, which otherwise might readily happen. Distillation commences in about ten minutes. The admission of steam is then moderated, 214 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. care being had that the ether passes over in an uninter- rupted stream of the thickness of a goose-quill. When, with the admission of the same amount of steam, the distillate commences to run drop by drop, the steam-cock is closed and the operation interrupted, this being the case in about six to seven hours. The next day the flask without removing the residue - is charged in the same manner. However, the third day only 30 pounds of alcohol are poured in. The combined distillates come into a copper still with double walls, between which steam can be admitted^ and are neutralized with dry calcium hydrate. The cooling pipe connected with the still consists of tin, and is provided with a beak dipping into a flask filled half- full with 4 pounds of alcohol. A slight current of steam suffices for distillation. The first distillate is dark yellow, and contains large quantities of aldehyde. Not- withstanding careful cooling, the vapors can be but in- completely condensed, and their inhalation has to be carefully avoided, they producing stupor and headache as well as inflammation of the eyes. When the distil- late is colorless and shows no reaction with litmus paper, the receiver is removed and replaced by a large glass balloon in which the entire distillate is collected. Dis- tillation must be quickly finished, as otherwise colored ether is obtained. l^alerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate, C 5 H 1J O.C 5 ITgO. This ether is formed by treating amyl alcohol with chromic acid. However, besides the ether a large quantity of valerianic acid is also formed, which has to be converted by itself into ether. To prepare the ether bring 5J parts of powdered ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 215 potassium dichromate together with 5 parts of water into a distilling apparatus and very gradually add a mixture of 1 part amyl alcohol and 5 parts concentrated sulphuric acid. The fluid becomes so strongly heated that it almost boils. When reaction is finished, heat and distil off the rest, The distillate consists of two layers ; the lower one being an aqueous solution of valerianic acid and the upper one a mixture of valerianic acid and amyl valerate. To separate both, add concen- trated carbonate of soda solution until all the free acid is neutralized. The oily liquid separating thereby is the ether. It is separated from the valerianate of sodium, the latter evaporated to a small volume, and, after cooling, sufficient sulphuric acid to fix the entire quantity of the soda is added. The valerianic acid is thereby separated, and floats upon the solution of the sodium sulphate. It is separated from the latter, and 1 J parts of it are added to a mixture of f part of amyl alcohol and 1 part sulphuric acid and heated to 212 F. After the addition of water, the apple-ether separates and only requires washing with water and some sodium carbonate to yield a pure product. The separation of the valerianic acid can, however, be readily avoided. Evaporate the neutral solution of the valerianate of soda to dryness in the water-bath, weigh of 1 molecule, or 124 parts, and gently heat it with a mixture of 1 molecule or 98 parts of sulphuric acid (on account of the content of water in the com- mercial acid, 105 parts of it will have to be taken) and 1 molecule or 88 parts of amyl alcohol. The ether thus obtained is a fluid, which, in a con- centrated state, does not possess an agreeable odor, but 216 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. when mixed with 10 parts of alcohol imparts to the latter an odor resembling that of apples. It boils at from 370 to 374 F., and at 64 F. has a specific gravity of 0.8793. Valerianic ethyl ether closely resembles the amyl ether, and, like it, is prepared from valerianate of sodium, ordinary alcohol, and sulphuric acid. Apple ether essentially consists of valeric amyl ether, of which 1 part is dissolved in 6 to 10 parts of strong alcohoL/ Apricot ether is butyric ether with some amyl alcohol. Cherry ether is acetic ether with benzoic ether. Pear ether contains acetic amyl ether. Pineapple ether is butyric ether. Strawberry ether is acetic ether with acetic amyl ether and butyric ether. The ethers are dissolved in various proportions in alcohol, according to the intensity of the odor which it is desired to obtain. The aroma of most of them is generally increased by a slight addition of chloroform. For the preparation of different fruit essences Klet- zinsky* gives the following directions. The figures indicate additions in cubic centimeters to 1 liter of rec- tified alcohol of 90 per cent. : Apple essence. Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, alde- hyde 20, acetic ether 10, valeric amyl ether 100, oxalic acidf 10, glycerin 40. Apricot essence. Chloroform 10 ; butyric ether 100, * Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 180, 77. f The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold, saturated, alcoholic solutions. ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 217 valeric ether 50, peach oil 10, amyl alcohol 20, butyric amyl ether 10, tartaric acid* 10, glycerin 40. Cherry essence. Acetic ether 50, benzoic ether 50, peach oil 10, benzoic acid* 10, glycerin 30. Currant essence. Aldehyde 10, acetic ether 50, ben- zoic ether 10, grape-seed oil 10, tartaric acid* 50, suc- cinic acid* 10, benzoic acid* 10. Grape essence. Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, formic ether 20, grape-seed oil 100, wintergreen oil 10, tartaric acid* 50, succinic acid* 30, glycerin 100. Lemon essence. Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 20, acetic ether 100, oil of lemons 100, tartaric acid* 100, succinic acid* 10, glycerin 50. Melon essence. Aldehyde 20, formic ether 10, butyric ether 40, valeric ether 50, glycerin 30. Orange essence. Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, acetic ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, benzoic ether 10, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 10, orange-peel oil 100, tartaric acid* 10, glycerin 100. Peach essence. Aldehyde 20, acetic ether 50, formic ether 50, butyric ether 50, valeric ether 50, peach oil 50, amyl alcohol 20, glycerin 50. Pear essence. Acetic ether 50, acetic amyl ether 100, glycerin 100. Pine-apple essence. Chloroform 10, aldehyde 10, butyric ethyl ether 50, butyric arnyl ether 100, glycerin 30. Plum essence. Aldehyde 50, acetic ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric ether 20, peach oil 40, glycerin 80. * The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold, saturated, alcoholic solutions. 218 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Raspberry essence. Nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 10, acetic ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, ben- zoic ether 10, grape-seed oil 10, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 10, butyric amyl ether 10, tartaric acid* 50, succinic acid* 10, glycerin 40. Strawberry essence.- Nitrous ether 10, acetic ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric ether 50, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 30, butyric amyl ether 20, glycerin 20. * The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold, saturated, alcoholic solutions. ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 219 CHAPTER VIII. ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. THE alcoholic perfumes, also called " Extraits d'Odeurs" are divided into flower-odors, "Extraits aux fleurs" and into compound odors, " Bouquets" The ex- tracts of French flower pomades form the foundation of all Extraits d'Odeurs, all other additions serving the purpose of rendering these odors more pronounced and durable. Hence the art of the perfumer consist in at- taining this object as perfectly as possible by the correct composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal. If, for instance, the flower-odor jasmine is to be pre- pared, it would not be sufficient to simply use the alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for the purpose, since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the air or upon the handkerchief, if the perfumer did not understand how to prevent it. To prevent the rapid volatilization of the scent, to retain it or to fix it, extracts of various perfume-materials, known as tinctures or extracts are used. The method of preparing the flower-pomades in France has already been described on p. 58 et seq. It need here only be added that, according to their quality, these pomades are designated by different numbers by the French manufacturers. There are three qualities, which by some manufacturers are designated as No. 6, 220 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. No. 18, and No. 30; and by others as No. 12, No. 24 and No. 36, so that No. 6 and No. 12, No. 18 and No. 24, as well as No. 30 and 36 correspond to each other. Pomades No. 6 or No. 12 are not suitable for the prepara- tion of extracts, they containing but little actual extract of flowers, and are generally mixtures touched up with volatile oils. They are almost exclusively used for hair pomades, for which they are well adapted. No. 18 or No. 24 is the quality generally employed by the per- fumer for alcoholic extracts. No. 30 or No. 36 is the strongest, and, hence, most expensive flower-pomade, and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers for the finest qualities of Extraits d y Odeurs. When freshly prepared, the above-mentioned flower pomades do not possess the fine odor of the respective flowers, the full aroma being developed only after about six months. The tin-canisters containing them should be provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool, dry cellar. Thus stored, flower-pomade keeps for about five years, with the exception of jasmine and tuberose, which keep only for about two years. In order to show how the extraction of flower-pomades is effected, we will take, as an example, 2 Ibs. of French flower-pomade No. 18 and 3J quarts of best alcohol.* This proportion yields a good and sufficiently strong extract for the preparation of Extraits d' Odeurs. It must, of course, be suited to the size of the extracting apparatus, 8 Ibs. of flower-pomade and 14 quarts of al- cohol being, for instance, taken, though that depends * By "best alcohol" is understood rectified alcohol of 95 to 97 per cent. ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 221 on the quantity of the respective extract required by the perfumer. It is, however, best that the apparatus should be as completely filled as possible so that it contains but little air. The gaining of alcoholic extracts from flower-pom- ades is best effected in a special apparatus, one of the simplest kind for the purpose being shown at Fig. 25. FIG. 25. It consists of two cylinders, A and A v of stout sheet- iron provided with well -fitting lids. Through the cen- tre of each lid passes a vertical iron shaft a and a v which carries in the interior of the apparatus several horizontal arms 6, 6,, 6 2 . These vertical shafts can be rapidly re- volved by the horizontal shaft c. Before bringing the flower-pomade into the apparatus, it is melted in the water-bath at a temperature, which, under no conditions, should exceed 88.25 F. The alcohol is also heated to 88.25 F. and added to the melted pomade in the appa- 222 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. ratus. The arms with which the vertical shaft is pro- vided, keep the mass in the apparatus in constant motion and prevent the pomade from settling on the bottom. The apparatus is arranged to be driven either by hand or steam, a fly-wheel instead of a pulley, being in the first case provided at g. Where the manufacturer has steam-power at his dis- posal, the apparatus may be connected with the trans- mission and allowed to run for 48 to 60 hours during working time. After the expiration of this time, pro- ceed to strain off the finished extract (No. 1) as fol- lows : Over a clean tin vessel stretch a close, white linen cloth, and pour the entire contents of the appa- ratus upon the latter ; the liquid portion runs through the cloth into the vessel, while the pomade remains behind upon the cloth. Finally, the cloth is thoroughly wrung out in order to obtain as much alcoholic extract from the pomade as possible. Bring the extract, No. 1, thus obtained into a glass flask, allow it to stand in a cool cellar for about 48 hours, and then filter it through paper into another glass bottle. This filtering through paper is necessary, even if the extract should appear clear and pure, as, in straining, not only do small particles of fat pass through the cloth, but are also dissolved in the extract. By quietly standing in a cool cellar these particles of fat are separated and appear as white flakes on the bottom and sides of the flask. At a higher tem- perature, these flakes melt and appear as drops of oil on the bottom of the flask. If filtering were omitted, these particles of fat would be transferred to the ex- tracts and thus cause stains upon handerchiefs, clothing, etc. If the manufacturer has not a cool cellar at his ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 223 disposal, the fatty particles are readily separated by placing the flasks containing the extract upon ice, and filtering immediately after separation is complete. The fat then remains upon the filter. The pomade remaining upon the straining cloth is, without being previously melted, returned to the appa- ratus, and, after adding the same quantity of alcohol (3J quarts to every 2 Ibs. of pomade), the .mixture is again worked as previously described. The straining off and filtering of extract No. 2 is effected in precisely the same manner as extract No. 1. The pomade upon the cloth is now brought for the third time into the apparatus and, after adding 3J quarts of alcohol for every 2 Ibs. of pomade, subjected to the same treatment as for extracts Nos. 1 and 2. After thoroughly wringing out the cloth containing the pomade, the latter is brought into a clean tin vessel and entirely melted upon the water-bath. The vessel containing the melted pomade is placed in a cool cellar and, if after complete cooling, a liquid appears upon the surface, it is added to the flask containing extract No. 3. This extract, No. 3, is used in place of alcohol when pre- paring, the next time, extract No. 1 from the same kind of pomade. In this manner, an extract No. 1 of still greater strength is obtained, and by treating the pomade three times with alcohol, it is more completely exhausted. The exhausted pomade can, in conjunction with fresh fat, be used for ordinary hair pomades. Although the extraction of pomades is somewhat laborious and requires great care, it nevertheless pays the perfumer. Beyer freres, of Paris, have essentially improved the 224 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. extracting apparatus previously described, the improve- ment being shown in Fig. 26. The cylinders A and A, are of copper tinned inside ; the lids close air-tight : above the cocks /and f t a perforated piece of tin is FIG. 26. placed in the interior of the cylinders ; upon this piece of tin a disk of felt may be placed, and thus the extract be drawn off clear. In order to reduce the pomade to a finely divided state, and thus bring it in contact with the alcohol, it is passed through a vermicelli press, h, placed upon the cylinder A r The pomade passes, in the form of fine vermicelli, through a sieve in the lower portion of the press into the alcohol contained in the cylinders. The press can be transferred from one ex- tracting vessel to the other. The shafts a and a t also ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 225 have several horizontal arms like those shown in Fig. 25. Through the contrivances d and d n sitting upon the shaft c, the shafts a and a t , receive a revolving as well as an up-and-down motion, so that a complete mixture of pomade and alcohol is effected. By this arrangement the pomade completely yields its perfume to the alcohol in one day, and independent of the quicker work, it has the further advantage that the extracts are of better quality in consequence of not remaining for so long a time in contact with the fat. TINCTURES AND EXTRACTS. In the following pages receipts for the preparation of the principal tinctures and extracts used in the preparation of Extraits, as well as in other branches of perfumery, fumigating pastils and powders,* dentifrices, mouth-waters, and cosmetics, will be given. The tinctures are prepared from the resins and balsams previously mentioned, as well as from the perfume-substances derived from the animal kingdom. Besides these there are employed for the purpose several spices, leaves, roots, and seeds such as musk-seeds, angelica root, orris root, patchouli leaves, musk-root or sumbul-root, tonka beans, vanilla, vitivert root, etc. Most of these substances, if not already found in com- merce in the form of a powder, are, before extraction, pulverized, or at least comminuted as much as possible. For a better view the treatment of each substance is given with the respective receipt. The infusions should be stored in a moderately warm room, and thoroughly shaken several time& every day. When extraction is finished the product is filtered through paper and is then called tincture or extract. The substances to be used for tinctures should be fresh 15 226 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. and genuine, and the alcohol free from fusel oil, since a perfect tincture can only be obtained under these con- ditions. For the preparation of tinctures Beyer freres have constructed very suitable apparatuses (Figs. 27 and 28). By the vigorous and uninterrupted agitation produced by means of such an apparatus extraction is effected much more rapidly and more completely than by treating the substances to be extracted in ordinary bottles and by shaking with the hand. The apparatus (Fig. 27) is provided with two boxes FIG. 27. for the reception of bottles filled with the substances to be extracted and alcohol. In the accompanying illus- tration one box is charged with two glass bottles and ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 227 the other with a copper flask. However, Beyer freres also construct apparatuses which can, at one time, be charged with 6, 8, or 10 glass bottles, so that 6, 8, or 10 different tinctures can be prepared at one operation. The apparatus (Fig. 28) consists of a round table pro- vided with cavities covered with leather, in which rest Fia. 28. bottles of a special shape. The bottles fit exactly in the cavities. The stoppers, with which the bottles are closed, rest against a screw of large diameter placed in the centre of the apparatus. Against this screw the bottles are firmly pressed by means of clamps and screws. The bottles being filled with the substances to be extracted, the table is set in motion, moving alter- nately from left to right and from right to left. It is advisable to have always a sufficient supply of tinctures on hand, since their aroma improves by age. The receipts given in the following pages have been 228 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. practically tested and can be recommended as perfectly reliable. Musk tincture. Tonkin musk 11 drachms, rose water 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts. Carefully empty the musk sac into a glass flask, add the rose water and let the flask stand for about 10 days, shaking frequently. Then add the alcohol and let the whole stand for several weeks, shaking frequently. Cut up the empty musk sacs into as small pieces as possible, and, in another bottle, treat them in the same manner as their contents; distilled water, may, how- ever, be used instead of rose water. The object of the water is to soften the musk, which swells up, so that the alcohol can better penetrate, into the cellular tissue and absorb the aroma. The extract from the 'empty musk sacs is used for cheaper products, or mixed with the extract from the contents of the sacs, according to whether a more or less fine quality of tincture is to be obtained, A still higher yield might, perhaps, be obtained by the use of a machine for comminuting the musk, which grjnds the sac to atoms, whereby the cellular tissue is still more completely disintegrated than by cutting up. Civet tincture. Civet 5J drachms, best quality of alcohol 3 pints. Civet in its natural state being, with difficulty, soluble in alcohol, triturate it in a mortar to a pulverulent mass together with some dry substance, for instance, whiting or exhausted orris-root powder. The mixture is then brought into a glass flask, the alcohol added, and the whole frequently shaken. ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 229 Ambergris tincture. Ambergris 5| drachms, alcohol of the best quality 1 quart. Ambergris dissolving readily in alcohol, pulverizing is not required, but if it is done, great care should be exercised to prevent loss of this expensive substance. Ambergris is not so much distinguished by its aroma as by its indestructibility, which renders it especially suit- able for fixing odors. Castor tincture. Castor 3J ozs., best quality of alco- hol 3 pints. Comminute the castor as much as possible, bring it into a glass flask and add the alcohol. Perfume-substances resembling musk having in the last few years increased to an extraordinary degree, the use of castor has been almost entirely abandoned on account of its disagreeable odor. The tincture can qnly be employed, when very old, for cheap perfumes. Benzoin tincture. Benzoin (Siam) 2 Ibs., best quality of alcohol 3 quarts. Convert the benzoin into a coarse powder, bring it into a flask, add the alcohol and shake thoroughly. Solution takes place in 10 to 12 days. Siam benzoin is the finest and most expensive and is indispensable for JExtraits d'Odeurs. For cheaper pro- ducts of perfumery, Sumatra benzoin answers very well. Peru-baham tincture. Peru balsam 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 5 quarts. Tolu-balsam tincture. Tolu balsam 3 Ibs., best quality of alcohol 5 quarts. Bring the alcohol into a bottle. Tolu balsam cannot be reduced to a powder, hence it is necessary to keep it right cool, whereby it becomes brittle so that it can be 230 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. cut up with a sharp instrument and a hammer. The pieces detached are rapidly brought into the alcohol, so- lution taking place in about 14 days. If the alcohol were added to the tolu balsam, the latter would ball together, rendering solution very difficult. Frequent vigorous shaking is necessary. Olibanum tincture. Olibanum 2 Ibs., best quality of alcohol 4 quarts. Eeduce the olibanum to as fine a powder as possible, bring it into a flask, add the alcohol and shake fre- quently. Opopanax tincture. Opopanax 2 Ibs., best quality of alcohol 4 quarts. Reduce the opopanax to a coarse powder, bring it into a bottle, add the alcohol and shake frequently. Storax tincture. Storax liquidus 4 Ibs., alcohol of best quality 5 quarts. Bring the alcohol first into the flask. Then place the pot containing the storax in warm water until it becomes more liquid, and then pour it in very thin threads into the flask. Shake frequently. Myrrh tincture. Myrrh 1 lb., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts. Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture. Abelmosk grains 21 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 J quarts. Reduce the grains to a fine powder, bring the powder into a bottle, and add the alcohol. This tincture abel- moschi fulfils its object as a fixing agent only when about one year old, when it possesses a very fine aroma. Abelmosk grains are the seeds of a plant (Abelmoschus moschatus Monch; Hebiscus abelmoschus, L.) indigenous to Central Africa, Arabia, and India. They are reddish- ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 231 gray, kidney-shaped, slightly corrugated on the surface, and of an agreeble musk-like odor. The substance pro- .ducing the musk odor lies in the seed coat. The odor becomes very pronounced on rubbing the seeds between the hands. Angelica root tincture. Angelica root 16 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts. Bruise or rasp the root, bring it into a bottle, add the alcohol, and shake frequently. Orris-root tincture. Pulverized orris root of best quality 2 lbs v alcohol of best quality 3 quarts. Pulverize the root, bring it into a glass flask, and add the alcohol. The powder having a great tendency to ball together, it is necessary to shake five or six times daily, and continue to do so for 14 days. In straining off the tincture, it is advisable to bring the entire con- tents of the flask upon a close linen cloth stretched over a tin vessel. The orris-root powder remaining upon the cloth after the tincture has run off is returned to the flask, and fresh alcohol added in order to obtain a second extract. Musk-root or sumbul-root tincture. Sumbul root 1 lb., best quality of alcohol 2J quarts. Proceed in the same manner as given under angelica- root tincture. Tonka-bean tincture. Tonka beans 8 ozs., alcohol of best quality 3 pints. The tonka bean is of great importance for perfumery. The tincture prepared from it has an agreeable, pene- trating odor, and in mixing it with other odors, great care has to be exercised, so that the tonka odor is not too prominent. The tincture is prepared as follows : 232 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Bring the beans, without comminuting them or remov- ing the white coating adhering to them, into a flask, add the alcohol, and let the whole macerate, with fre- quent shaking, for about 14 days. Then filter off the fluid. The tincture prepared in this manner only con- tains the cumarin found as a white coating upon the beans, and is used only for the finest products. Now take the beans from the flask, comminute them, return them to the flask, and add 1J quarts of alcohol. This extract gives an excellent tincture suitable for products of medium quality. Cumarin tincture. Cumarin 5} drachms, best quality of alcohol 1 quart. Heliotropin tincture. The white crystals of heliotropin yield with alcohol a solution clear as water, which is much used in the preparation of Extrait heliotrope. Vanilla tincture. Best quality of Bourbon vanilla 5J ozs., alcohol of best quality 2 quarts. To prepare the tincture proceed as follows : Cut the so-called vanilla pods lengthwise and then into as small pieces as possible, and bring the latter together with the alcohol into a flask. Some perfumers triturate the com- mimuted vanilla with sugar in a porcelain mortar, whereby the small-seed bodies contained in the pod are ground up, and a better yield is claimed to be obtained. Though by this trituration a tincture of a darker color may be obtained, the color alone is by no means a proof of the strength of the tincture. Care must be had to bring the white, downy crystals of vanillin found upon the vanilla pods into the flask. Vanillin tincture. Vanillin 1J drachms, alcohol 2 quarts. ALCOHOLIC PEKFTJMES. 233 Vitivert tincture. Yiti vert rhizome 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts. Reduce the rhizome to as fine a powder as possible, bring the latter into a flask, add the alcohol and .shake frequently. Juniper-berry tincture. Juniper berries 2 Ibs., best quality of alcohol 5 pints. The juniper berries (the fruits of Juniperus communis, L.) are comminuted, and the alcohol is poured over them. Patchouli extract* Patchouli leaves 1 lb.,best quality of alcohol 5 pints. Bring the pulverized leaves into a bottle and add the alcohol. The tincture from patchouli leaves being dark- green is not suitable for the preparation of Extrafa, since white substances are colored grass-green by it ; only traces of the tincture may be used for the purpose of giving the Extr ait 'patchouli a greenish shade of color. The tincture may, however, be utilized for milled patchouli soaps. From many of the above-mentioned perfume-sub- stances, which serve for the peparation of tinctures and are not entirely soluble in alcohol, but leave a residue after extraction, a second infusion may be made. Musk, castor, and the resins dissolve completely, there remain- ing behind only the impurities and any mineral con- stituents present which possess no aroma. But all residues from woods, fruits, etc., are suitable for a second extraction, most of the tinctures thus obtained being quite aromatic, and, as will be seen later on in giving * Compare patchouli oil, p. 130. 234 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. receipts, can be very advantageously utilized. For the second extraction less alcohol has to be taken than for the first. Since many perfumers consider it of greater advantage and more suitable to first dissolve the volatile oils used for the Extraits d'Odeurs, and to prepare a tincture in this manner, several receipts for the purpose are given below. In the receipts for perfumery given in the next following sections, the volatile oils are specified as such, and not as tinctures, because the Extraits d'Odeurs containing evidently much non-saturated alcohol, the volatile oils will in time completely dissolve in them. An exception to this rule might be ylang-ylang oil and perhaps orris-root oil. Ylang-ylang oil is soluble with difficulty, even in very strong alcohol, and if directly used for the Extrait, the latter remains turbid for weeks, and frequently, especially in winter, does not become clear, notwithstanding repeated filtering. How- ever, by preparing in good time an ylang-ylang tincture this evil is avoided. eing smoothed, is allowed to remain for at least one hour in contact with the paste, and is then rinsed off with luke- warm water. Being slightly dried, it is then in the same manner anointed with a paste prepared from indigo and water, and allowed to remain in contact with it for one hour. The hairs which were colored orange-red by the henna, now have a greenish-black appearance, but by the oxidation of the indigo in a short time acquire an 318 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. intensely blue-black color, which is extraordinarily durable, the hair only after several months requiring to be again dyed. The freshly expressed juice and the fresh parenchyma of green walnut shells, or of unripe walnuts, gradually color light or gray hair dark to nut-brown. The color- ing substance is not thoroughly known, but is very likely a phloroglucide ; it is extracted by fats and alcohol, but, according to Paschkis, is no longer effective in such solution. This, however, is not correct in regard to the alcoholic extract, because the extract from ordinary wal- nut shells, prepared by mixing the expressed juice of green walnut shells with 10 parts of alcohol, allowing the mixture to stand for ten days, and then filtering, also colors brown. Peroxide of hydrogen bleaches organic substances, dark or red hair being thereby changed to reddish-yel- low or pale blonde. The coloration, or rather bleaching, does not appear at once, but is complete only after some time. The peroxide of hydrogen only exists in aqueous solution, which should be quite concentrated (15 to 20 per cent.). Owing to the mode of preparation, the solu- tion always contains some nitric acid and readily de- composes, when exposed to light and air, whereby it becomes useless. In the following, a number of formulae for hair-dyes are given. According to their constitution, they may be divided into two groups, viz : A. Dyes which con- tain the coloring matter in a finished state; and, B. Dyes which are formed upon the hair by a chemical process. The dye should first be applied in a dilute state, and the application repeated in case the desired HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 319 shade is not produced, since by the use of the dye in a concentrated form a shade not resembling any natural color might be obtained, hair which is to be colored black acquiring, for instance, a metallic blue-black lustre. A. SINGLE HAIR DYES. Teinture Orientale (Karsi). Ambergris 2} drachms, gall-nuts 4 Ibs., pulverized iron 1} ozs., pulverized copper 1 drachm, musk 1 drachm. Convert the gall-nuts to a fine powder, and roast the powder in an iron pan, stirring constantly until it is dark brown to blackish. Rub the powder together with the metallic powders, and the perfume substances and keep the mixture in a damp place. For use moisten some of the powder upon the hand and apply to the hair, rubbing it in vigorously. In a few days the hair acquires a deep black, quite natural color. In roasting, the tannin-substances contained in the gall-nuts are con- verted into gallic and pyrogallic acids, which yield with the metals combinations of a deep black color, and are even readily converted into black-brown bodies (humin bodies). Teinture Chinoise (Kohol). Gum-arabic 1 oz., Chinese ink If ozs., rose-water 1 quart. Reduce the gum- arabic and Chinese ink to fine powder, and triturate the powder in small quantities with rose water until a homogeneous black fluid free from grains is formed. Collect this fluid in a bottle and mix it with the re- maining rose water. Kohol is only suitable for persons with black hair and is especially used for dyeing the eye- brows. The coloring matter of this preparation con- sisting only of carbon in a very finely divided state, it is perfectly harmless. 320 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Potassium permanganate hair dye. Potassium per- manganate 5 ozs., distilled water 2 quarts. Crystallized potassium permanganate dissolves with great ease in water to a deep violet fluid. By bringing the solution in contact with an organic substance paper, linen, skin, horn, hair it rapidly discolors, imparting to the sub- stances a brown color, which originates from peroxide of manganese. Free the hair from fat by washing, and apply the dilute solution with a soft brush. The color appears immediately, and according to the degree of dilution, all shades of color from blonde to darkest brown may be produced with this perfectly harmless agent. It may, of course, also be used for dyeing the beard. Bismuth hair dye. Subnitrate of bismuth 10 parts, 10 per cent, solution of potassa and citric acid each a sufficient quantity, glycerin 150 parts, water sufficient to make 300 parts. Intimately mix the subnitrate of bismuth and the glycerin by trituration, then heat the mixture in a water-bath, and gradually add to it solu- tion of potassa, under constant stirring, until the bis- muth salt is dissolved. Next add a concentrated solution of citric acid until only a slight alkalinity remains. Finally add enough water to make 300 parts, and per- fume according to preference. Walnut hair dye. Bruise 40 parts of fresh green walnut peel with 5 parts of alum, digest with 200 parts of olive oil until all moisture has been dissipated, strain and perfume the oil according to preference. Pyrogallic hair stain. Pyrogallic acid J oz., water 3 ozs., alcohol 1 oz. This liquid gives a dark brown color. HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 321 B. -DOUBLE HAIR DYES. These and similar hair dyes consist of two preparations, kept in bottles I and II. The bottle II, which serves for the reception of the silver preparation, must be of blue or black glass, since silver salts are decomposed by light. For use, pour some of the fluid in bottle I into a cup, and moisten the hair with it by means of a soft brush. Then pour the fluid in bottle II into another cup, and apply it with another brush. For dyeing brown. I (in the white bottle). Liver of sulphur 7 ozs., alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 4 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. For dyeing black. I (in the white bottle). Liver of sulphur 8 ozs., alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. Liver of sulphur is a leather-brown mass, readily soluble in water. The solution has to be filtered before it is brought into the bottles. By bringing the solutions together black sulphide of silver is formed, which effects the dark coloration of the hair. After using the dye, a disagreeable odor of stale eggs adheres to the hair, which is, however, readily removed by washing. The silver hair dyes may also be made by preparing the fluid in bottle II as follows : Add drop by drop water of ammonia to the silver nitrate, kept constantly agitated until the precipitate formed is redissolved. Tannin hair dye. I (in the white bottle). Pulverized gall-nuts 14 ozs., water 16 ozs., rose water 16 ozs. Boil the gall-nuts in the water, strain the boiling fluid through a close cloth into the rose water, and bring the fluid thus obtained, while still hot, into the bottles, which should be immediately closed. (It is absolutely necessary to bring 21 322 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. the fluid hot into the bottles, as otherwise mould is readily formed.) II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. Add water of ammonia to the silver solution until the precipitate at first formed is redissolved. Melanog&ne. I (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 5J drachms, distilled water 2| ozs., water of ammonia I oz. II (in the white bottle). Pyrogallic acid J drachm, 40 per cent, spirit of wine 17 ozs. Eau d'Afrique. I (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 1J drachms, distilled water 3J ozs. II (in the white bottle). Sodium sulphide 4J drachms, distilled water 3J ozs. Krinochrom. I (in the white bottle). Pyrogallic acid 5| drachms, distilled water 6J ozs., alcohol 5J ozs. II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 6J drachms, water of ammonia 2 ozs., distilled water 10 J ozs. Copper hair dye. I (in the white bottle). Potassium ferrocyanide (yellow prussiate of potash) 7 ozs., dis- tilled water 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). Cupric sulphate (blue vitriol) 7 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. Add to the cupric sulphate solution water of ammonia until the pale blue precipitate at first formed is dissolved to a beautiful dark blue fluid. This hair dye gives a dark brown color, but great care has to be exercised in its use, the yellow prussiate of potash being very poisonous. DEPILATORIES. While the number of agents for pro- moting the growth of the hair is a very small one, and their efficacy not above doubt, there are, on the other hand, quite a number of very effective agents for the removal of hair, sulphur combinations being most frequently used for the purpose. Rhusma is a depila- HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 323 tory which has long been known, and is still almost exclusively used in the Orient. It consists of 1 part orpiment and 6 parts of lime slaked to a powder. Mix intimately by passing the ingredients through a sieve, and preserve the mixture in tightly-closed vessels. For use, stir some of. the powder to a paste with water, and apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed. As soon as the layer of paste begins to dry remove it with a thin shaving of wood. Owing to the energetic action of this depilatory upon the skin, ladies are advised not to use it for the face. Combinations of sulphur with the alkalies and alka- line earths are much used as depilatories. Of these, sodium sulphydrate, however, should never be used, with- out the advice of a physician, as it acts very energetically upon the skin, and frequently leaves scars behind. Cal- cium sulphide is contained in Boettger's depilatory. It is usually prepared by heating at a low red heat in a securely -closed crucible an intimate mixture of 100 parts of finely-powdered quicklime with 90 parts of precipitated sulphur. Of the calcium sulphide thus ob- tained, mix 1 Ib. with 8 ozs. of starch and 7 drachms of lemon oil. Apply the paste to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed, allowing it to remain 20 to 30 seconds. The action of barium sulphide, which is frequently used as a depilatory, is much less energetic than that of calcium sulphide. It is, for instance, a constituent of Bartholow's depilatory, which consists of barium sulphide 1 part, caustic lime 1 part, and starch 2 parts, made into a paste with alcohol. 324 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. CHAPTER XIII. COSMETICS. UNDER this heading will be considered toilet vinegars, washes, perfumed powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well as paints. The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch of perfumery. The materials used for the purpose should be selected and of good quality even for cheap articles, which are, of course, also represented in the fol- lowing receipts. SKIN COSMETICS. Toilet vinegars. Perfumed vine- gars, when added to wash water, have a refreshing effect and are also used as fumigating agents by mixing them with water in a dish and placing the latter in the room. Vinaigre de Bully. Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, tinctures of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax, each 1 lb., olibanum tincture J lb., vanilla tincture and best lavender oil 5J ozs., bergamot oil and lemon oil each 4J ozs., acetic acid 2 Ibs. Vinaigre de toilette d la rose. Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs., extrait rose No. 1, 1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3J ozs.," acetic acid 14 ozs. Vinaigre de toilette d la violette. Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures of benzoin and storax each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2J ozs., liquid orris-root oil* 11 drachms, acetic acid 1 lb. * See foot-note, p. 257. COSMETICS. 325 Vinaigre de toilette heliotrope. Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart, musk root tincture 3J ozs., benzoin tincture 1 Ib., berga- mot oil If pzs., verbena oil and palma-rosa oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8J drachms, acetic acid 1 Ib. Vinaigre de toilette orange. Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, benzoin tincture 10J ozs., abelmosk tincture and vitivert tincture each 8 ozs., civet tincture 14 drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs. Vinaigre de toilette. Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, orris-root tincture 1| Ibs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu bal- sam and angelica each 1 Ib., French rose-geranium oil 1} ozs., bergamot oil 4J ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil each 3J ozs., neroli oil 8J drachms, best rosemary oil 11 drachms, peppermint oil 5J drachms, acetic acid 2 Ibs. Aromatic vinegar. Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol 1 J oz., acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1J ozs., acetic acid 3J ozs., oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and wintergreen each 5 drops. English aromatic vinegar. Crystallized acetic acid 20 ozs., camphor 2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of cloves 30 drops, oil of cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and dissolve. The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The vials are first filled with sulphate of potassa in small crystals, and enough acetic acid is added to thoroughly moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of potassa is said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mix- ture was formerly obtained by introducing into the vials acetate of potassa and a sufficiency of sulphuric acid. Whether this be true or not, sulphate of potassa 326 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the liquid in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge. Toilet vinegar. Essence of bergamot 20 drops, es- sence of ambergris 4 drachms, essence of vanilla and oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong acetic acid 160 drops, alcohol 6 ozs. Washes. Washes are mostly milky fluids or emul- sions, formed by the fine division of resins or balsams in water, benzoin and myrrh being especially employed for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time believed that fumigations with it every evening after washing would prevent wrinkles in the face. The emul- sions are used by adding one to two tablespoon fills to the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much em- ployed as an addition to wash-water. Virginal milk (Lait virginal). Alcohol of finest quality 2J quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil each 5J drachms, benzoin tincture 1 quart. Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of sugar, add the bergamot oil and rose oil and mix inti- mately. Now bring the paste-like substance into a glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol and add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the latter with a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm room for 8 days, shaking frequently. Then add the benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally filter through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient of it to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which exerts a refreshing and invigorating effect upon the skin and olfactory nerves. Rose milk (Lait de rose). Rose water 5 Ibs., white bees- COSMETICS. 327 wax and comminuted Castile soap each 3J ozs., potash 4J ozs., Extract rose No. 1 8 ozs. Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel, and dissolve in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax, and, when this is dissolved, the potash, stirring con- stantly, while the substances are dissolving. When solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a cloth (best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it and allow it to cool. When cold add the Extrait rose, shake thoroughly and fill it into bottles for sale. If the Lait de rose is to be rose color, add very care- fully a small quantity of corallin tincture and shake vigorously. Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be employed in the preparation of these emulsions, as otherwise they would soon become rancid. Almond milk (Lait d'amandes ameres). Distilled water 5 Ibs., bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1} ozs., com- minuted Castile soap 2J ozs., potash 3J ozs., bitter- almond oil 8J drachms, dissolved in extract from Pomm. Tubereuse 8 ozs. Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert them to a paste by pounding in a clean mortar, bring the paste into the distilled water, and extract in a water- bath for about } hour. Then strain the liquid through a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dis- solved, strain again and proceed as given for rose milk. The bitter-almond oil is dissolved in the extract from Pomm. Tubereuse and added last of all to the liquid mass. 328 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Lily milk (Lait de lys). Rose water, orange-flower water, and jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax 3J ozs., Castile soap 2J ozs., potash and orris-root tinc- ture each 3J ozs., cumarin tincture If ozs., dissolved in musk-root tincture 3J ozs., bergamot oil If ozs. Pro- ceed as given for Lait de Rose. In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked that it should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as otherwise all the preparations above given might, in a short time, become rancid. Perfumed glycerin with rose odor. Chemically pure glycerin of 28 B. 10 Ibs., Extrait rose No. 1, 8 ozs. By adding the Extrait rose, the glycerin becomes tur- bid, but clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing the mixture to stand quietly for several days. Filtering the fluid is not advisable, and besides entirely useless. Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor. Chemically pure glycerin of 28 B. 10 Ibs., any kind of fruit ether If ozs. Shake thoroughly. The glycerin, if chemically pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit ether, which, of course, must also be of the best quality. ^ PERFUMED MEALS AND PASTES. The(perfumed meals are frequently used for washing in place of soap, or they are applied after washing, or shaving, to the skin to prevent the latter from becoming rough or chapped. \ The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softeryr Farin de noisette (nut meal). Best quality wheat flour 3 Ibs., almond meal 1J Ibs., orris-root powder 1 lb., ber- gamot oil 2 ozs. Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. COSMETICS. 329 Farin d'amandes ameres (almond meal). Best quality wheat flour and almond meal each 3 Ibs., bitter-almond oil 1 oz. Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Pate d'amandes au miel (honey almond paste). Best quality almond meal 2 Ibs., honey 4 Ibs., chemically pure glycerin of 28 B. 2 Ibs., fresh olive oil 4 Ibs., bitter- almond oil If ozs., the yolks of 20 eggs. Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware dish. Mix the honey and glycerin after slightly warm- ing them. Beat the yolks of the eggs in a small dish with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and of the olive oil to the almond meal, work the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then add the yolks of the eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the bitter-almond oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best to keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed earthenware pot in a cool place for about 14 days before distributing it into boxes, because after the ingredients are mixed together a slight fermentation takes place which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the porcelain boxes. Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin, upon the hands, face, and neck, for which, in fact,, it has proved excellent. Poudre de riz a la rose. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared talc 19 ozs., Extrait rose No. 1, 3J ozs., French rose- geranium oil 14 drachms, clove oil 2f drachms. The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed through a sieve. The perfumes are brought together in 330 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. a glass and thoroughly shaken. The same directions hold good for all succeeding receipts for Poudre de riz. Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the Briancon talc or French chalk being very suitable for the purpose, it yielding a vervjarhite and delicate powder. It is prepared as follows : L)ver 1 part of talc pour 2 parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent snaking, for 14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with distilled water. J If rose-colored poudre de. riz rose is demanded, add to the proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of madder, triturate it thoroughly with the powder, per- fume, triturate again, and finally pass the whole through a fine sieve. These rice powders are best kept in well- closed tin canisters. Poudre de riz heliotrope. Eice flour 4 Ibs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose- geranium oil 5 drachms, clove oil 2J drachms, vanilla tincture 10 drachms, Extrait heliotrope No. 1, 1} ozs. Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz a la rose. Poudre de riz a la violette. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root oil 2J drachms, Extrait Violette No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin tincture 5 drachms. Proceed as directed for Poudre riz a la rose. Poudre de riz orange. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared talc 19 ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms, extract frpm Pommade Orange 1 oz. Proceed as directed for Poudre riz a la rose. Poudre de riz muguet. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared talc 19 ozs., ylang-ylang oil, winter-green oil, angelica COSMETICS. 331 oil, and bitter-almond oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5 drops, storax tincture 14 drachms, Extrait Muguet No. 1, 3J ozs. Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz a la rose. Poudre de riz ixora. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared talc 19 oz., bergamot oil 2J drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 drachm, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each If ozs., extract from Pomm. Cassie or Extrait ixora if ozs. Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz a la rose. Poudre de riz bouquet. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and Ceylon cinnamon oil each 2f drachms, Extrait ess- bouquet No. 1, 3J ozs. Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz a la __ COLD CREAMS AND LiP-SALVES.-\The purpose cold creams and lip-salves is to impart lustre to the skin and protect it from cracking in changes of temperature. Cold cream. Fat-almond oil 3 Ibs., spermaceti 5J- ozs., white beeswax 7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose oil 5J drachms. Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the spermaceti and wax, then add the almond oil, and when the whole forms a liquid allow the previously warmed rose water to flow in slowly, stirring constantly. Now take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to thicken. Then stir in the perfume and fill the finished cold cream in boxes. Vaseline cold cream. White vaseline 2 Ibs., fat-almond oil 1 lb., white beeswax If ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, French rose-geranium oil and Turkish rose oil each 2J drachms. 332 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold cream. Glycerin cream. Fat-almond oil 3 Ibs., white bees- wax and spermaceti each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28 B. 1 lb., bergamot oil 1 oz., clove oil, Turkish rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2J drachms. Proceed as above. Creme de concombre. Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white beeswax 10 drachms, spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly- expressed cucumber juice 7 ozs., volatile cucumber oil 2J drachms, ^bergamot oil 1J drachms. Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated mass upon a clean white cloth, and gently express the juice so that no mucus passes through the cloth. The cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of the pro- cess being the same as with cold cream. Glycerin gelee. Gum- tragacanth 5J drachms, swelled up in rose water 10J ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28 B. 7 ozs., honey 3J ozs., Extrait rose No. 1, If ozs. Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring the powder into a capacious glass flask, pour the rose water upon it, and, after corking the flask, let it stand for about 3 days, shaking it frequently and vigorously. Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now rep- resents a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed sieve into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey, and Extrait rose, mix the whole intimately, and fill the tubes or glasses with the finished preparation. It is an approved remedy for chapped skin. Glycerin jelly. Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 Ibs., soap 2J ozs., orange-peel oil 2J drachms, thyme oil 5J drachms. COSMETICS. 333 Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil, and finally the perfume. Cream of roses. Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin 1 oz., alcohol J oz., water 6J ozs., boric acid 40 grains, spirits of lavender and bergamot each 1 oz. Boroglycerin cream. Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in 24 parts of glycerin ; add to this solution 5 parts of lanolin and 70 parts of petrolatum. This preparation is said to be excellent for chapped hands, lips, etc. Recamier cream. The following formula is said to produce something quite similar to this preparation : zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid drachms, water 5 fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1 fluid drachm. Preparations for chapped hands. I. Quince seed 2 ozs., rose water 16 ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince seeds in the rose water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and benzoin. II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1 oz. Perfume to suit. III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin 50. Apply .twice daily. The pain soon ceases, the skin softens and the chaps quickly disappear. IV. Quince seed 1J drachma, boric acid 4 grains, carbolic acid 10 grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs., cologne 2 ozs., oil of lavender 20 drops, glycerite of starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make 1 pint. Dissolve the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince seed in the solution for three hours and then press through a straining cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid and glycerite of starch and mix thoroughly. Mix the 334 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add the solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well. Wash for the hands. Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5 drachms, rose water 4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands should be washed with soap in soft water, or water to which a little borax has been added, thoroughly dried and then well rubbed with the lotion. Nail-powder. The following preparation serves for the purpose of imparting smoothness and lustre to the finger nails. For use apply some of the powder to a piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until they show lustre. Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 Ibs., carmine 5J drachms, oils of bergamotand la vender each 2J drachms. Rub the stannic oxide as fine as possible and mix it in the mortar with the other ingredients. Lip-salve No. 1. Pomm. Rose No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs., best carmine nacarat 2J drachms. Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with the Pomm. Rose in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine are perceptible. By this tritu ration the salve becomes very soft and delicate, so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small boxes. A pleasing lustre .is then imparted to the sur- face of the salve by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol lamp. It may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring mat- ter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for in- stance, alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily acquires a bluish coloration. If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the object may be attained by the addition of a few drachms COSMETICS. 335 of white beeswax. However, in this case, the pomade must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade and wax melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, fill into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an al- cohol flame. Lip-salve No. 2. Pomm. Rose No. 6 or 12, 10 J ozs., Huile antique rose No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white bees- wax 5| drachms, carmine nacarat 2f drachms. Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then add, first, the oil, combine it witli the wax, then add the pomade and finally the carmine. When all this is inti- mately mixed, stir it until cold. The further process is the same as aiven for No. 1. PAiNTS.-^Jhe object of paints is to hide blemishes of / the skin and to impart to it a different color as a rule f a youthful one from that bestowed by nature, though / under certain conditions, especially in the case of actors, \ they are also employed for the purpose of changing the ' expression of the face.} A distinction is made between pulverulent, solid, liquid and fat paints. PULVERULENT PAINTS (POWDERS). The simplest powder is wheat starch. It forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly harmless. Pow- dered talc, prepared in the manner previously described (p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 parts of prepared talc, while still moist, with 12 parts of spermaceti, previously rubbed to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate heat, a product known in commerce as u Blanc fard," or " Blanc frajigais/' is obtained. Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is mixed, according to circumstances, with subnitrate of 336 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. bismuth (flake-white), magnesia, chalk or zinc-white. White lead, though frequently used, cannot be recom- mended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate of bismuth furnishes the best white ; it has, however, the disadvantage of turning brown in air containing sul- phuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white does not have this de- fect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color. Customary mixtures for powders are as follows : I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, zinc-white 10. II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, subnitrate of bismuth 20. The powders are prepared in three colors : white, rose-color and yellowish. To heighten the white color the powder is mixed with about J of one per cent, of ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is used, and for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre. A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared as follows : Mix 100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or more parts of carmine, according to the desired shade of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and in small portions added to the talc. It should not be dissolved, as given in many directions, in ammonia, it losing thereby its fiery red. To obtain an especially delicate powder, the finished article should be carefully bolted through silk. SOLID PAINTS. Solid paints may be prepared from the above-mentioned powders by stirring them to a paste with thin gum solution. Ordinary red paint (rouge). Prepared talc 2 Ibs., car- mine 1 oz., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from dis- tilled water 3J ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2J drachms, best COSMETICS. 337 olive oil 5J drachms, best alcohol 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac J tablespoon ful, distilled water as much as required. Fine red paint (rouge). Prepared talc 2 Ibs., carmine 1 J ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3J ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2 \ drachms, best olive oil 5J drachms, Extrait rose No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac J tablespoonful, rose water as much as required. White paint. Prepared talc 2 Ibs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3J ozs. and gum- tragacanth 2J drachms, best olive oil 5J drachms, Extrait rose No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as required. The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small porcelain boxes, which must, however, be hermetically closed to prevent drying out. To obviate the latter, the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must, however, be carefully done so that the mass does not become liquid ; too much glycerin may also make the paint blue. Regarding the preparation of these paints, the follow- ing may be said : The prepared talc is passed through a fine-meshed sieve into a porcelain dish. The carmine is rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and then triturated with water* in the same mortar until no more specks of carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to the talc in the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a horn or wooden spoon, and gradually add sufficient rose water to form a dough-like mass. Then add to this mass about 1} ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, pre- * For fine preparations, rose water is used ; for ordinary, distilled water. 22 338 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. pared 3 or 4 days before from 2^ drachms of pulver- ized gum-tragacanth and 3| ozs. of water, work the mass thoroughly through, and add the 5J drachms of best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with the mass, mix in the 1 oz. of Extrait rose or alcohol, and again work the mass thoroughly through, when the paint is ready to be brought upon porcelain plates. The procedure is now as follows : By means of a spoon bring a quantity of the paint, about the size of three hazelnuts upon the centre of a porcelain plate, spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by knocking the latter against the table, and in the same manner cover 6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates. Tie a piece of paper over the dish containing the rest of the paint and set it aside. Place the plates coated with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in both cases the paint would become blue. After 12 to 1.8 hours the paint upon the plates will be dry, and now comes the most difficult part of the manipulation. With a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card scrape off very carefully and uniformly a small quan- tity from the surface of the paint, proceeding from the edges towards the centre of the plate. Then, to see whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the edge of the latter quite vigorously against the table. If it adheres firmly, cover the entire plate with a piece of watered silk, catch the ends of the latter beneath the plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of the right, run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moire of the silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice appearance. Proceed in the same manner with the six COSMETICS. 339 or eight test-plates, and if the paint upon them bears the manipulation without dropping off, work up the rest of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does not adhere to the plates, it is proof of it containing not enough gum-tragacanth. In this case add some of the mucilage to the paint in the dish, work it thoroughly through, and proceed in the manner described. Pack- ing, labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not here be described, but as the charm of novelty con- tributes much to the sale of an article, the manufacturer should make it his business to invent new attractive de- signs, without too much imitating others. Red stick-paint (Stick rouge). Prepared talc 1 lb., carmine 5| drachms, olive oil 2} drachms, alcohol 8J drachms, spirit of sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful, distilled water and gum-tragacanth mucilage as much as required. The mode of preparation is the same as for solid paints, except that in order to give the rouge more con- sistency, less water and gum-tragacanth mucilage are to be used. For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds about 2J inches long and of the thickness of a finger are used. To facilitate the removal of the rouge sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with a rag moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin stick of wood. After removing the sticks from the mould, they are allowed to dry superficially, and next wrapped first in tissue paper and then in tinfoil, one end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil. They are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes. 340 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. White stick paint is prepared in the same manner as stick rouge, with the exception that the carmine is omitted. Rouge en/cutties. Prepared talc If ozs., carmine 2f drachms, olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammo- niac about 50 drops, pure alcohol 5J ozs., distilled water or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage If ozs. The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil, spirits of sal ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage are successively thoroughly triturated with the carmine, next the talc is added, then the water, and finally the alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the pestle. The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush, is applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a circular disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre of the paper. The application of the rouge to the paper has to be repeated three or four times, allowing one layer to dry before applying the next. When the last layer is dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of tissue paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper cutter over the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of tissue is laid between the separate pieces. LIQUID PAINTS/ Liquid paints are chiefly used by actors. \ LiquidA-ouge. Rose water 1 \ quarts, carmine If ozs., fcxtrait rose No. 1, 1 Ib. Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a glazed earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously rubbed fine, to the hot rose water, and stir the fluid with a clean wooden spatula until the carmine is completely divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and add a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter imparts to the rouge a brighter red, but not too much COSMETICS. 341 of it should be used, as otherwise the rouge acquires a bluish shade, and besides the odor of the spirits of sal ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge is cold add 1 Ib. of Extrait de rose, mix the whole inti- mately, and filter through white filtering paper into a clean glass bottle. The rouge has to be protected from sunlight. White liquid paint. Fine zinc- white 3 Ibs., rose water or orange water 3J quarts. In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5 quarts of distilled water, stirring constantly, until about 3 quarts of the water are evaporated. Then take the vessel from the fire and allow the fluid to stand quietly for J hour. Then carefully decant off the supernatant water, pour the 3J quarts of rose water or orange water upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles. -Fat paints. Fat paints of various colors and shades are prepared chiefly for the use of actors. The ground mass consists of Blanc fard or Blanc franqais, or simply of pulverized talc bolted through silk. It is colored, according to the color desired, with carmine, eosin, sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated in the proportion of 1J ground mass to 1 fatty mass, with the fatty mass consisting of white wax 3 parts and olive oil 7 parts ; or paraffin 1J parts and white vase- line 2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the water- bath, the powder stirred in, and after allowing the mixture to cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured into tin tubes previously slightly warmed. Besides the above-mentioned fat paints in sticks, there are also fat paints in porcelain boxes, which are of a some- what softer consistency. They are prepared in white, 342 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts for them are as follows : Creme de Lys. Melt 3 J ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs. of white wax in the water-bath, and after taking the mass from the fire mix it with 3| Ibs. of subnitrate of bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with If Ibs. of almond oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until en- tirely cold, and perfume. Creme de rose. Spermaceti 3J ozs., white wax 7 ozs., Blanc Francais 3 Ibs., carmine 8J drachms, almond oil If Ibs. Proceed as directed for creme de lys. INDEX. 4 BELMOSK or musk-seed tinc- A ture. 230, 231 Absorption or enfleurage, process of, 60-65 Acacia oil, 87 Acetic amyl acetate or amyl ace- tate, 201 ethyl or ethyl acetate, 201-204 Acid number, 81 African and French geranium oils, 112, 113 Alcohol and sulphuric acid test, Hager's, 78 chloroform, and benzine, quan- titative determination of adulterations with, 72, 73 or spirit of wine, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71 Alcoholic perfumes, 219-255 Allspice, oil of, or pimento oil, 136 Almond bandoline, 305 meal, 329 milk, 327 oil (bitter), 87-93 adulterations of, 90-92 artificial, 89, 90 tincture. 234 paste, honey, 329 Alpine herb oil, 301 Ambergris, 31, 186-188 V adulterations of, 188 tincture, 229 Ambreih or ambrin, 187 America and England, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214 American curled mint oil, 132 English, or Canadian castor, 185, 186 musk-rat, musk of the, 181, 182 oil of turpentine, 149 peppermint oil, 132, 133 American soap industry, consump- tion of citronella oil in the, 108 storax, 172 Amygdalin, 88 Amyl acetate or acetic amyl ace- tate, 201 valerate or valerianic ether, 214-216 Anethol, 111 Angelica oil, 92, 93 root tincture, 231 Animal kingdom, perfume-sub- stances from the, 178-188 Anise-seed oil, 93, 94 Antiseptic gargle, 275 Apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, 223- 225 for determining the percent- age of volatile oil in a vege- table substance, 40, 41 , for distilling lemon oil, 118- f 120 for the absorption process, 62- 64 for the distillation of volatile oil, 41-46 for the extraction of volatile oils, 48-57 for the preparation of tinc- tures, 226, 227 Apple essence, 216 ether, 216 pomade, 289 Apricot essence, 216, 217 ether, 216 Aqua mellis, 255 Arabian physicians, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26 ^ Arnica tooth-tincture, 276 Aromatic vinegar, 325 English, 325, 326 344 INDEX. Artificial musk, 182, 183 V perfume- materials, 189-218 Athens, luxurious use of ointments i in, 22 Atomizers, 263 Atomizing, pine odor for, 265 Attar of roses or rose oil, 136- 144 Austrian oil of turpentine, 148 Avicenna, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of. 26 J BALM oil, 96 Balm -oil tincture, 234 Balsam, Brazilian, 166 Carthagena, 166 fumigating, 265, 266 Peru, 159-166 pine oil, 149, 150 Tolu, 166-168 - new variety of, 167, 168 white Indian, 172 Peru, 172 Peruvian, 130, 161 Balsams, 155, 156 V and resins, 155-177 Balsamum Peruvianum, 159-166 Bandoline, almond, 305 rose, 305 Bandolines, 304, 305 Barenthin's application of Huhl's iodine method to volatile oils, 80 Bartholow's depilatory, 323 Bartlett, W. W., menthol pungent as prepared by, 260 Preston salt as prepared by, 260 Basil oil, 96 tincture, 234 Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, 96, 97 Bay leaves, oil of, or bayberry oil, 96,97 Bay rum, 312-314 formulae for, 313, 314 Beard, Rogers's pomade for pro- ducing a, 294 Bear's grease, 285 pomade, 289 Beauty-patch or mouche, 28 Beef marrow pomade, 294 Benzine, detection of, in volatile oil, 71, 72 Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, 204, 205 Benzoin, 157-159 ^ amygdaloid, 157 determination of cinnamic acid in, 158, 159 flowers, 159 in tears, 157 lump, 157 pomade, 290 tincture, 229 treatment of fat oils with, 300, 301 varieties of, 158 Bergamot oil, 97, 98 tincture, 234 Betula lenta, oil from, 152 Beyer frfcres, apparatus for alco- holic extracts from flower po- mades, 223-225 for the prepara- tion of tinc- tures, 226, 227 Birch oil, 152 Bismuth hair dye, 320 nitrate of, 335, 336 Bisulphide of carbon, 48 Black hair dyes, 321 tooth-powder, 280 wax pomade, 299 Blanc fard or blanc frar$ lis, 335 Blondel, Dr., memoir on the star anise tree, by, 95 Blonde wax pomade, 299 Bocttger's depilatory, 323 Boroglycerin cream, 333 Bouchardat and Lafont, conver- sion of oil of turpentine into lemon oil by, 189, 190 Bouquet vaseline pomade, 296 Bouquets, 219, 240-245 Brazilian balsam, 166 Brilliantine, 305-308 formulas for, 307, 308 Brown hair dye, 321 wax pomade, 299, 300 Bulgaria, rose oil industry in, 137, 138 Burdock-root hair oil, 302 Butyric acid, preparation of, 205- 207 ether, formation of, 207, 208 or ethyl butyrate, 205- 210 INDEX. 345 riAJEPUT oil, 98, 99 , \J Camomile oil, 99, 100 r Camphor tooth-powder, 280 Canadian, English, or American castor, 185, 186 Canango oil, 154 tincture, 234 Caraway oil, 100, 101 Carbon* bisulphide of, 48 Carbonic acid, apparatus for de- veloping a current of, 50-52 Carob or St. John's bread, 209 Carthagena balsam, 166 Carvene, 100 Carvol, 35, 100 Cassia oil, 103, 104 tincture, 235 value of, 104 Cassie, oil of, 87 Castor, 31 adulterations of, 186 Castoreum or castor, 185, 186 Castor oil, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68 pomade, 293 or castoreum, 185, 186 tincture, 229 Cedar oil, 101 tincture, 235 Ceylon cinnamon oil, 102, 103 Chalk, 336 Chamomile oil, 99, 100 Chapped hands, preparations for, 333, 334 Chassis, 61 Cherry essence, 217 ether, 216 laurel oil, 101, 102 tooth-paste, 278 non-fermenting, 278 Chloroform, alcohol, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations with, 72, 73 detection of, in volatile oil, 71 Cineol, 123 Cinuamaldehyde, 103 quantitative determination of, 104-106 Cinnamic acid, determination of, in benzoin, 158, 159 Cinnamon leaves, oil of, and cin- namon-root oil, 104 I/ oil tincture, 235 oils, 102-106 ^ Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinna- mon leaves, 104 Citrene, 35, 121 Citronella oil, 107, 108 . tincture, 235 Citronellol, 107 Citron oil, 106, 107 Civet, 31, 184, 185 tincture, 228 Clove-oil tincture, 235 Cloves, oil of, 108-110 Cold cream, 331 creams and lip-ealves, 331-335 Cologne water, 249-254 durability of volatile oils used for, 250, 251 preparation of, 249, 250 receipts for, 252-254 Coloring substances for dentifrices and mouth-waters, 272 for pomades, 286 Compound odors, 240-245 Copper hair dye, 322 nitroprusside of, test, 75-78 salts for dyeing the hair, 315, 316 Cortex thymiamatis, 168 Cosmetics, 324-342 and perfumeries in the Middle Ages, 26, 27 V and perfumes in Italy, 26, 27 * receipts for, in the writings of Arabian physicians. 26 / Cream, boroglycerin, 333 cold, 331 glycerin, 332 of roses, 333 E^camier, 333 vaseline cold, 331 CrSme de concombre, 332 de lys, 342 de rose, 342 Cumarin, 190-193 manufacture of, 192, 193 tincture, 232 Curled mint oil, 132 Currant essence, 217 Cymene, 121 DANDRUFF cures, 312 lotion, 312 Densdorf pomade, 290 346 INDEX. Dentifrice, singular, used by the Roman ladies, 26 Dentifrices and mouth-waters, col- oring; substances for, 272 mouth-waters, etc., 272-283 Depilatories, 322, 323 use of in ancient Rome, 25, 26 Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suit- able for the recep- tion of perfumes, 24 for prepai ing rose ointment, 23, 24 " Medica materia," 23 Distillation of expressed oil, 39 of lemon oil, 118 of rose oil, 137, 138 of volatile oils, 39-48 ancient mode of, 24 Distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120 Double hair dyes, 321, 322 Dragendorff 's test, 68, 69 Dry perfumes, 256-261 Dutch tonka bean, 191, 192 Dwarf pine oil, 149 PAST INDIAN geranium oil, 112 j Eau Atlienienne, 308 Eau d'Afrique, 322 de Botot (improved), 275 de Cologne, 249-254 durability of volatile oils for, 250, 251 hair tonic, 309 preparation of, 249, 250 receipts for, 252-254 solid perfume, 260 de lavande, 255 double, 255 de Lisbonne, 255 de quinine, 309, 310 (imitation), 310 de vie de lavande double am- brea, 255 dentifrice Botot, 274 Orieutale, 274, 275 lustral (hair restorative), 310 Ecuelle process for obtaining lemon oil, 117, 118 Egg oil, virtues of, 314 Egypt, ancient, paints used in, 18, 19 Egyptians, use of perfume-sub- stances by the, for embalming the dead, 18 Elseoptene, 33 Emperor pomade, 292 Enfleurage or absorption, process of, 60-65 England and America, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214 use of perfumery in, 30 English aromatic vinegar, 325, 326 Canadian, or American castor, 185, 186 peppermint oil, 132, 133 tonka bean, 192 Esprit de menthe, 276 Ess-bouquet sachet powder, 259 solid perfume, 260 Essence a 1'ecuelle, or au zeste, 117 apple, 216 apricot, 216, 217 cherry, 217 currant, 217 de jasmin, 114 de lavande Montblanc, 115 de mirbane, 199 grape, 217 lemon, 217 melon, 217 of Portugal, 125 of* the odor of Linden blos- soms, 238 orange, 217 peach, 217 pear, 217 pine-apple, 217 plum, 217. raspberry, 218 strawberry, 218 Essences and vinegars, fumigating, 264-266 pastilles, powders, etc., for fumigating, 262-271 Essential or volatile oils, occur rence of, in plants, 31 Ester or ether number, 82 Ether, apple, 216 apricot, 216 cherry, 216 or ester number, 82 pear, 216 pine-apple, 216 strawberry, 216 Ethers, fruit, 200-218 INDEX. 347 Ethyl acetate, or acetic ethyl, 201- 204 benzoate, or beuzoic ether, 204, 205 butyrate, or butyric ether, 205- 210 formate, or formic ethyl ether, 210, 211 nitrite, or nitrous ether, 211- 214 Eucalyptene, 111 Eucalyptol, 111 Eucalyptus oil, 110, 111 tincture, 235 Eugenol, 103, 109 Expression of volatile oils, 36-39 Extract, concentrated flower, 245 patchouli, 233 spinach, 239 Extraction of volatile oils, 48-58 or maceration of flowers, 286, 287 Extracts, alcoholic, from flower pomades, apparatus for, 223-225 and tinctures, 225-237 Extrait acacia, 237 bouquet Eugenie, 241 Prince Albert, 243 Victoria, 242, 248 cassie, 237 chypre, 243, 244, 247 de violette de Parme, 239, 240 edelweiss, 240 ess-bouquet, 240, 241, 247 excelsior, 241 fleurs de Mai, 238 Frangipani, 241, 249 heliotrope. 237 ixora, 239,' 248, 249 jacinthe, 237, 238 jasmin, 238 jockey club, 241, 242 jonquille, 238 kiss-me-quick, 243 lily of the valley, 238 magnolia, 238 mareehal. 244 May flowers, 238 millefleurs, 242 mogadore, 243 mousselline, 244 muguet, 238, 248 musk, 243 new-mown hay, 243, 247 Extract opopanax, 242 orange, 239 patchouli, 242 reseda, 240, 246 rose, 246 v. d. centifolie, 239 spring-flower, 241, 248 tubereuse, 240 violette, 239, 246 white rose, 239 ylang-ylang, 240, 246, 247 Extraits aux fleurs, 219, 237-240 d'odeurs, 219 triple concentie"s, 244, 245 FACE, painting the, practised by the Hebrew women, 19 Family pomade, 290, 291 vaseline pomade, 296 Farin d'amandes ameres, 329 de noisette, 328 Fat mixtures for hair pomades, 288, 289 paints, 341 , 342 Fats, animal, preparation of, for the reception of perfumes, 24 for pomades and hair oils, 284 protection of, against rancid- ity, 285 purification of, 285, 286 FedereFs, C. F., test for pepper- mint oil, 135 Fennel oil, 111, 112 Filter, illustrated and described, 38,39 Filtration of expressed oils, 37-39 Flake-white, 336 Florentine flasks, 46, 47 Florida water, 308, 309 Flower brilliantine, 306, 307 extract, concentrated, 245 fumigating essence,heliotrope, 264 hair oil, 301 pomades, 286, 287 extraction of, 221-225 Flowers for the production of vola- tile oils, localities best suited for the cultivation of, 32, 33 maceration or extraction of, 286, 287 Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl for- mate, 210, 211 348 INDEX. France, cultivation of the bitter orange in, 126 extravagant use of rouge in, 28, 29 golden ae:e for toilet articles in, 27-29 introduction of the arts of the toilet into, 27 old process of maceration in, 59 Frangipani sachet powder, 258 Frankincense, in ancient times, 19- 21 or olibanum, 176, 177 French and African geranium oils, 112, 113 oil of turpentine, 148 patchouli oil, 131 perfumers, ancient, privileges of, 29, 30 pomades (flower pomades), fine, 286, 287 Fruit ethers, 200-218 Fuchsine, detection of alcohol by, 69 Fumigating agents, dry, objections to, 263, 264 balsam, 265, 266 essences and vinegars, 264-266 pastilles, powders, etc., 262-271 lacquer, 270, 271 mode of, 262, 263 object of, 262 paper, 268 pastilles, 268-270 ordinary black, 269 red, 269 powder, ordinary, 266, 267 violet, 267 powders, 266-268 prejudice against, 262 vinegar, 266 water, 266 Funnel, separatory, 47 flERANIOL, 112 \J Geranium oil, East Indian, 112 Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turk- ish geranium oil, 112 tincture, 235 oils, French and African, 112, 113 German curled-mint oil, 132 German oil of turpentine, 148 peppermint oil, 132, 133 Germany, manufacture of rose oil in, from indigenous roses, 136 Glycerin cream, 332 for dentifrices, 273, 274 gelee, 332 hair tonic, 310 jelly, 332, 333 perfumed with fruit odor, 328 with rose odor, 328 Grape essence, 217 Greeks, practice of anointing the body by the, 21 Green camomile oil, 99 Guaiacum reaction, Hager's, 78-80 Gummi rnyrrha, 172-176 resina myrrha, 172-176 Gum-resins, 155, 156 Guy de Chanlios, receipts for cos- metics in the works of, 26 HAGER'S alcohol and sulphuric acid test, 78 Hager's guaiacum reaction, 78-80 tannin test, 69-71 Hair, copper salts for dyeing the, 315, 316 dye, bismuth, 320 black, 321 brown, 321 copper, 322 potassium permanganate, 320 requirements of a good, 314 tannin, 321,322 Turkish, 316 walnut, 320 dyes, 314-322 double, 321,322 silver, 321 single, 319, 320 use of, in ancient Rome, 25 green walnut shells for dyeing the, 318 henna for dyeing the, 317, 318 iron salts for dyeing the, 316 lead salts for dyeing the, 315 nitrate of silver for dyeing the, 315 oil, alpine herb, 301 burdock root, 302 INDEX. 349 Hair oil, cheap, 303,304: fine, 302, 303 flower, 301 jasmine, 303 macassar, 302 mignonette, 302 neroli, 302 Peru, 302 Peruvian bark, 301, 302 philocome, 303 Portugal, 303 rose, 301 sultana, 304 tonka, 304 vanilla, 303 vaseline, 303 Victoria, 304 violet, 304 ylang-ylang, 303 oils, 300-304 and pomades, fats for, 284 peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the, 318 pomade, fine, 291 for promoting the growth of the, 291 pomades, 285-300 according to the German method, 288-295 coloring substances for, 286 fine French, 286, 287 foundations for, 288, 289 hair oils, and hair tonics, hair dyes and depilato- ries, 284-323 potassium permanganate for dyeing the, 316 pyrogallic acid for dyeing the, 316 stain, pyrogallic, 320 tonics, 308-314 Hands, chapped, preparations for, 333, 334 wash for the, 334 Hebrews, ancient, perfume-sub- stances known to the, 19 Heliotrope pomade, 291 , 292 sachet powder, 257 Heliotropin or piperonal, 193-195 tincture, 232 Henna-flower, use of the, for per- fuming, 19 Henna for dyeing the hair, 317, 318 Herb pomade, 292 Herodotus on the mode of gaining olibanum, 19, 20 Heyl's distilling apparatus, 57, 58 extracting apparatus, 54-57 Historical notice of perfumery, 17- 30 Hitchin and Mitchan lavender oil, 115 Honey almond paste, 329 water, 310 Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78 Horse fat, 284, 285 Hiibl's iodine method, 80, 81 Hufeland's, Dr., tooth-powder, 280 tooth-soap, 282, 283 Huile antique & la rose, 301 au jasmin, 301 Huiles antiques, 301 Hydrogen, peroxide of, for bleach- ing the hair, 318 TCE pomade, 290 J_ Indian balsam, white, 172 Infusion or maceration, process of, 58-60 Iodine method, Hubl's, 80, 81 test with, 74, 75 Iron salts for dyeing the hair, 316 Italy, perfumes and cosmetics in, 26,27 JAPANESE peppermint oil, 132, J 133 Jasmin, essence de, 114 Jasmine hair oil, 303 oil or oil of jessamine, 113, 114 pomade, 292 Jessamine, oil of, or jasmine oil. 113, 114 Jockey club sachet, 257 Juniper-berry tincture, 233 Juniper odor, 265 oil, 114 KABARDIN musk, 179, 180 Kahol, 317 Karsi, 319 Kienoel, 149 Kohol, 319 Kopher, 19 350 INDEX. Kremel's saponification test, 81, 82 Krinochrom, 322 Krummholz oil, 149 Kypros, 19 LACQUER, fumigating-, 270, 271 Lait, d'amandes amfcres, 327 Lait de lys, 328 de rose, 326, 327 virginal, 326 Lanolin pomade, 292, 293 Latschenoel, 149 Lavande Montblanc, essence de, 115 Lavender odor solid perfume, 260 oil, 115, 116 adulterations of, 116 tincture, 235 Lead salts for dyeing the hair, 315 white, 336 Leather, perfumed, 30 Lebonah, 19-21 Lederin, 286 Lemon essence, 217 grass-oil tincture, 235 oil, 116-121 conversion of oil of tur- pentine into, 189, 190 tincture, 235 Licarioil, linaloe oil, 122 .tincture, 235 Lilac oil, 121 Lily milk, 328 of the valley sachet powder, 258 vaseline pomade, 296 Limes, oil of, 121, 122 Linaloe oil, licari oil, 122 Lip-salve, 334, 335 Lip-salves and cold creams, 331- 335 Liquid ambar, 172 paints, 340-342 rouge, 340, 341 storax, 168-171 Locock's lotion for the hair, 311 Lotion, dandruff, 312 Locock's, for the hair, 311 shampoo, 311 Lubah, 19-21 Lunar caustic for dyeing the hair, 315 MACASSAR hair oil, 302 pomade, 292 Mace oil, 124 Maceration or extraction of flow- ers, 286, 287 or infusion, process of, 58-60 Magnesia, 336 Mandarin oil, 125, 126 Marinello's work on " Cosmetics for Ladies," 27 Marjoram oils, 122, 123 Maumen^'s test, 82, 83 Meal, almond, 329 nut, 328 Meals and pastes, perfumed, 328- 331 MelanogSne, 322 Melon essence, 217 Menthol, 133 pungent, 260 Messina, yield of lemon oil in, 120 Methyl salicylate, 151 artificial production of, 152, 153 Mierzinski's formulae for bay rum, 313, 314 Mignonette hair oil, 302 oil, 123 pomade, 293 vaseline pomade, 296 Milk, almond, 327 lily, 328 rose, 326, 327 virginal, 326 Millefleurs fumigating pastilles, 270 Mint, curled, oil of, 132 Mirbane, oil of, 199 Mitchan and Hitchin lavender oil. 115 Monfalcone's, D., distilling appa ratus for lemon oil, 118-120 Moschus ex vesicis, 180 Moses, the holy oil prescribed by, 21 Mouche or beauty patch, 28 Mouth- and tooth- waters, 274-277 waters and dentifrices, color- ing substances for, 272 dentifrices, etc., 272-283 Musk, 31, 178-184 adulterations of, 183, 184 artificial, 182, 183 fumigating pastilles, 269, 270 INDEX. 351 Musk-rat, American, musk of the, 181, 182 root or sumbul-root tincture,- 231 sachet powder, 259 sac, how to open a, 180 sacs, illustrated and described, 178, 179 seed or abelmosk tincture, 230, 231 substitutes for, 181, 182 tincture, 228 Myristicin, 124 Myron, 21 Myrrh, 172-176 adulterations of, 175, 176 oil, 123, 124 tincture, 235 tincture, 230 tooth-tincture, 276 Myrrha electa, 173 in sortis, 173 vulgaris, 173 Myrrhin, 174 Myrrhol, 174 Myrtol, 123, 124 \TAIL-POWDER, 334 1> Neroli hair oil, 302 Nerolioil, adulterations of, 127,128 j or orange-flower oil, 126- | 129 tincture, 235 petale, 127 pomade, 293 vaseline pomade, 296 New-mown hay fumigating pow- der, 267, 268 sachet powder, 259 Nitrate of bismuth, 335, 336 of silver for dyeing the hair, 315 Nitrobenzol, 198-200 adulterations of, 199 Nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78 Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, 211- 214 Nut meal, 328 Nutmeg oils, 124, 125 ODONTINE, 275 or tooth-paste, 277, 278 paste, 278 Odor and taste, testing the, of voja- tile oils, 66, 67 Odors, compound, 240-245 Oil, castor, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68 fat, adulteration with, of vola- tile oil, 67, 68 the holy, prescribed by Moses, 21 volatile, apparatus for deter- mining the per- centage of, in a vegetable sub- stance, 40, 41 for the distillation of, 41-46 Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83- 86 separation of the, and water, 46, 47 testing the odor of, 66 the taste of, 67 Oils, fat, treatment of, with ben- zoin, 300, 301 oxygenated, behavior of, to- wards nitroprusside of cop- per, 76-78 perfuming of, 61, 62 volatile, 33-65 ancient mode of distilling, apparatus for the extrac- tion of, 48-57 characteristics of, 33, 34 concentrated, 35 detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83 distillation of, 39-48 division of, with reference to the guaiacum reac- tion, 79, 80 expression of, 36-39 extraction of, 48-58 extra strong, 35 for Cologne water, dura- bility of, 250, 251 localities best suited for the cultivation of flow- ers for the production of, 32, 33 modes of obtaining, 36-65 or essential , occurrence of, in plants, 31 352 INDEX. Oils, volatile, patented, 85 principal divisions of, 34 solubility of, 33 storage of, 65 testing of, 66-86 the, used in perfumery, 87-154 Ointment makers, ancient, condi- tion of, 24, 25 rose, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24 Ointments, directions for prepar- ' \ ing, in ancient works, 23, 24 foreign, edict against, in Rome, for the different parts of the body used by the Athenians, 22 Oleum abietes, 149 canadensis, 149, 150 amygdalae amarae, 87-93 anisi", 93, 94 anthemidis, 99, 100 anthos, 144, 145 cajeputi, 98, 99 carui, 100, 101, caryophylli, 108-110 cassise, 103, 104 cedri, 101 cinnamon! ceylonici, 102, 103 citri, 106, 107 eucalypti, 110, 111 australe, 110 florum aurantii, 126-129 foeniculi, 111, 112 gaultheriae, 151-153 geranii, 112, 113 iridis, 129, 130 iva ranchusa, 150, 151 juniperi, 114 laurocerasi, 101, 102 lavandulse, 115, 116 ligni rhodii, 145 eandali, 145 sassafras, 145-147 limettae, 121, 122 limonis, 116-121 macidis, 124 menthae crispae, 132 piperitse, 132-135 pulegii, 135, 136 myrtha3, 123, 134 na"phae, 126-129 neroli, 126-129 nucistae sethereum, 124 Oleum petit grain, 129 pimenta, 136 pini, 149 pumilionis, 149 resedae, 123 rosemarini, 144, 145 templinum, 149 uonae, 153, 154 Olibanum in ancient times, 19-21 or frankincense, 176, 177 tincture, 230 Opiat liauide pour les dents, 280, 281 Opopanax, 176 oil, 125 tincture, 235 tincture, 230 Orange, bitter, localities for the cultivation of the, 126 essence, 217 flower oil, or neroli oil, 126- 129 water, 128 fumigating powder, 267 peel oil, 125 sachet powder, 259 Oriental flower fumigating essence, 265 pomade, 293 Orris-root oil, 129, 130 liquid, 257 tincture, 235 tincture, 231 Orris stearoptene, 129 PAINT, fine red, 337 ordinary red, 336, 337 red stick, 339 white, 337 liquid, 341 stick, 340 Paints, 33.5-342 fat, 341, 342 liquid, S40-342 preparation of, 337-339 pulverulent, 335, 336 solid, 336-340 use of, by the Roman ladies, 25 Palermo, yield of lemon oil in, 120 Palmarosa oil, geranium oil, Turk- ish geranium oil, 112 Paper, fumigating, 268 Paraffine, solid perfumes with, 259, 260 INDEX. 353 Paraguay, manufacture of petit- j grain oil in, 129 Paris, annual sale of perfumery in, 29,30 Paste, honey almond, 329 Pastes and meals, perfumed, 328- 331 and powders for the teeth, 277-283 Pastilles, fumigating, 268-270 powders, essences, etc., for j fumigating, 262-271 Patchouli-camphor, 131 Patchouli extract, 233 leaves, 130, 131 oil, 130-132 tincture, 235 sachet powder, 258 Pate d'amandes au miel, 329 Peach essence, 217 kernels, use of, in the fabrica- tion of bitter-almond oil, 88 Pear essence, 217 ether, 216 Penang patchouli oil, 131 Peppermint oil, adulterants of, 134, 135 oils, 132-136 American, English, and j German, mode of dis- tinguishing, 133, 134 Pepper, perfume-substance from, 191 Perfumed meals and pastes, 328- 331 Perfume-materials, artificial, 189- 218 for the manufacture of | perfumery, 31-65 substances, consumption of, by the ancient Romans, j consumption of, by the I early nations of the Orient, 17 from the animal kingdom, i 178-188 Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages, 26, 27 Perfumer, the actual flower garden of the, 32 what the art of the, consists in, 219 Perfumers, French, ancient privi- leges of, 29, 30 23 Perfumery, annual sale of, in Paris, 29, 30 historical notice of, 17-30 perfume-substances for the manufacture of, 31-65 the volatile oils used in, 87-1 54 use of, in England, 30 Perfumes, alcoholic, 219-255 and cosmetics in Italy, 26, 27 dry, 256-261 preparation of animal fats for the reception of, 24 solid, with paraffine, 259, 260 Peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the hair, 318 Peru balsam, 159-166 adulterants of, 162 oil, 161 statistics of, 162 tests for, 162-166 tincture, 229 white, 172 hair oil, 302 Peruvian balsam, white, 160, 161 bark hair oil, 301, 302 Petit-grain oil, 129 tincture, 236 Petroleum-ether, 48 as testing agent for Peru balsam, 163 Philocome hair oil, 303 Pimento oil, or oil of allspice, 136 Pine-apple essence, 217 ether, 216 Pine-leaf oil, 149 tincture, 236 Pine odor for atomizing, 265 oil, 149 Piperate, potassium, 194 Piperiue, 194 Piperonal, how obtained, 194, 195 or heliotropin, 193-195 Piver's apparatus for maceration, 59, 60 for the absorption pro- cess, 63, 64 Planchon's procedure for the re- cognition of a volatile oil, 83-86 Plants, families of, richest in vola- tile oils, 32 occurrence of volatile oils in, 31 Pliny's account of olibanum, 20, 21 " Historia naturalis," 23 Plum essence, 217 354 INDEX. Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome, 22, 23 Paraffin ice pomade, 293 Poley oil, 135, 136 Pomade, apple, 289 bear's grease, 289 beef-marrow, 294 benzoin, 290 black wax, 299 blonde wax, 299 bouquet vaseline, 296 brown wax, 299, 300 castor oil, 293 cheap, 293 wax, 390 Densdorf, 290 emperor, 202 extra fine vaseline, 298 family, 290, 291 vaseline, 296 fine, 291, 294 vaseline (yellow;, 297 for promoting the growth of the hair, 29i heliotrope, 291, 292 herb, 292 ice, 290 jasmine, 292 lanolin, 292, 293 lily of the valley vaseline, 296 macassar, 292 mignonette, 293 vaseline, 296 neroli, 293 vaseline, 296 oriental, 293 paraffin ice, 293 Portugal, 292 vaseline, 296 princess, 293, 294 quinine, 289, 290 (imitation), 290 resin, 300 Rogers's, for producing a beard, 294 rose, 294 wax, 299 salicylic, 294 stick, manufacture of, 298,299 strawberry, 291 tonka, 294, 295 vanilla, 295 vaseline (red), 297 (white), 297 foundations for, 296 Pomade, Victoria, 294 vaseline, 297, 2S8 violet, 295 Virginia vaseline, 297 walnut, 295 Pomades, 285-300 according to the German method, 288-295 and hair oils, fats for, 284 coloring substances for, 286 designation of the qualities of, 219, 220 foundations for, 288, 289 resin, 298 stick, 298-300 foundations for, 298 vaseline, 295-298 wax, 298 Pommade a Pacacia, 287 i la fleur d'orauge, 287 a la rose, 287 a Ph&iotrope, 287 Portugal hair oil, 303 oil, 125 tincture, 236 pomade, 292 vaseline pomade, 296 Potassium permanganate for dye- ing the hair, 316 hair dye, 320 piperate, 194 Poudre d'Algerine, 281, 282 de corail, 280 de riz a la rose, 329, 330 de riz a la violette, 330 de riz bouquet, 331 de riz heliotrope, 330 de riz ixora, 331 de riz muguet, 330, 331 de riz orange, 330 dentifrice, 279 Powder for coloring intensely red, 336 new-mown hay fumigating, 267, 268 orange fumigating, 267 ordinary fumigating, 266, 267 rose fumigating, 267 Powders, 335, 336 and pastes for the teeth, 277- 283 fumigating, 266-268 mixtures for, 336 pastilles, and essences, etc., tor fumigating, 262-271 INDEX. 355 Preston salt, 260 Princess pomade, 293, 294 Pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair, 816 hair stain, 320 QUININE pomade, 289, 290 (imitation), 290 tooth-water, 276 RASPBERRY essence, 218 Rastikopetra, 316 Recamier cream, 333 Red paint, fine, 337 ordinary, 336, 337 stick paint, 339 thyme oil, 147 Reggio, mode of manufacturing bergamot oil in, 118 Reseda sachet powder, 258, 259 Resin pomade, 300 pomades, 298 Resins and balsams, 155-177 definition of, 155 diffusion of, in the vegetable kingdom, 156 elementary constituents of, 155 hard, 155 soft, 155, 156 Rhazes, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26 Rhodium oil, or rosewood oil, 145 Rhusma, 322, 323 Righini's method for testing ber- j gamot oil, 98 Rogers's pomade for producing a beard, 294 Romans, ancient, consumption of perfume-substances by the, 24 Rome, introduction of ointments in, 22 Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in, 22, 23 Rosa alba, 137 / damascena, 137 is Rose bandoline, 305 flower fumigating essence, 264 fumigating pastilles, 270 powder, 267 hair oil, 304 milk, 326, 327 oil, adulterants of, 142 Rose oil, adulteration of, in Bulga- ria, 140 determination of sperma- ceti in, 143, 144 insulation and determina- tion of the stearoptene in, 139, 140 judging the genuineness of, 139 liquid, 139 or attar of roses, 136-144 principal localities of pro- duction of, 136 test for, 143 used in Bulgaria, 141 tincture, 236, 237 ointment, according to Diosco- rides, 23, 24 v pomade, 294 wax pomade, 299 Rosemary oil, 144, 145 ^ Roses, cream of, 333 Rosewood oil, or rhodium oil, 145 Rouge, 336, 337 en feuilles, 340 extravagant use of, in France, 28,29 liquid, 340, 341 moulding of, into sticks, 339 stick, 339 Russian or Siberian castor, 185,186 musk, 179, 180 SACHET 3, la rose, 257 & la violette, 257 aux millefleurs, 258 jockey club, 257 powder, ess-bouquet, 259 Frangipani, 258 heliotrope, 257 lily of the valley, 258 musk, 259 new-mown hay, 259 orange, 259 patchouli, 258 icseJa, 258, 259 Victoria, 258 ylang-ylang, 257 powders, 256-259 Safrene, 146 Safrol, 146, 147 St. John's bread or carob, 209 Salicylic pomade, 294 Salts, smelling, 260, 261 356 INDEX. Salve, Cyprian, 19 Sandal-wood oil, 145 tincture, 236 Saudarac, 177 Sandaraciu, 177 Saponaceous tooth-wash, 283 Saponification number, 81 test, Kremel's, 81, 82 -Sassafras oil, 145-147 Sartorius ylang-ylang oil, 154 Schiinmel & Co.'s directions for bay rum, 313 directions for the quantitative de- termination of cinnamaldehvde, 104-106 improved still, 44- 46 Separator- funnel, 47 Shampoo liquid, 311,312 lotion, 311 Siberian or Russian castor, 1 85, 186 musk, 179, 180 Silver, nitrate of, for dyeing the hair, 315 Single hair dyes, 319, 320 Siphon still, 41, 42 Skin cosmetics, 324-328 Smelling salts, 260, 261 Soap for dentifrices, 273 Solid paints, 336-340 Solubility of volatile oils, 33 Sozodont, 275 Spanish marjoram oil, 122, 123 Spermaceti, determination of, in rose oil, 143, 144 Spike oil, 115 Spinach extract, 239 Spirit of wine, or alcohol, detec- tion of, in volatile oil, 68-71 Sponge-process for obtaining lemon oil, 116, 117 Stahl's tooth-tincture, 276 Star anise oil, 94, 95 Stearoptene, 33 of rose oil, 138 Stick paint, white, 340 pomade, manufacture of, 298, 299 pomades, 298-300 foundations for, 298 rouge, 339 Still, for direct steam, 43, 44 improved, 44-46 Still, ordinary, conversion of, into use with steam, 42, 43 siphon, 41, 42 i Stohman's test for oil of cloves, 109 I Storax, 168-172 American, 172 in grains, 171 liquid, 168-171 adulterations of, 170, 171 ordinary, 171, 172 tincture, 230 j Strawberry essence, 218 ether, 216 pomade, 291 Styracin, 170 Styrax calamitus, 171, 172 vulgaris, 171, 172 Styrol, 169, 170 Sultana hair oil, 304 Sumbul root, or musk-root tinc- ture, 231 TANNIN hair dye, 321,322 Taste and odor, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67 Tea hair tonic, 310, 311 Teinture Chinoise (Kohol), 319 Orientale (Karsi),319 Templin oil, 149 Terpenes, 35, 36 adulterations of volatile oil with, 73 Terpilene, 189, 190 Testing volatile oils, 66-86 Theophrastus's work " On Per- fumes," 23 Thibet or Oriental musk, 178, 179 Thymene, 147 Thyme oil, 147, 148 from the field thy me, 147, 148 Thymol. 147, 273 tooth-paste, 278 tooth-powder, 279 tooth-water, 274 j Tincture, ambergris, 229 angelica-root, 231 balm-oil, 234 basil-oil, 234 benzoin, 229 bergamot-oil, 234 bitter almond-oil, 234 canango-oil, 234 INDEX. 357 Tincture, cassia-oil, 235 castor, 229 cedar-oil, 235 cinnamon-oil, 235 citronella-oil, 235 civet, 228 clove-oil, 235 cumarin, 232 eucalyptus-oil, 235 geranium-oil, 235 heliotropin, 232 juniper-berry, 233 lavender-oil, 235 lemon-grass oil, 235 lemon-oil, 235 licari-oil, 235 musk, 228 root or sumbul-root, 231 seed or abelmosk, 230, 231 myrrh, 230 oil, 235 neroli-oil, 235 olibanum, 230 opopanax, 230 oil, 235 orris-root, 231 oil, 235 patchouli-oil, 235 Peru-balsam, 229 petit-grain-oil, 236 pine-leaf-oil, 236 Portugal -oil, 236 rose-oil, 236, 237 sandal- wood-oil, 236 storax, 230 tola-balsam, 229, 230 tonka-bean, 231, 232 vanilla, 232 vanillin, 232 verbena-oil, 236 vitivert, 233 oil, 236 wintergreen-oil, 236 ylang-ylang-oil, 236 Tinctures and extracts, 225-237 apparatus for the preparation > of, 226, 227 Toilet articles, golden age for, in ! France, 27-29 arts of the, in ancient times, 18 i introduction of the arts of the, j into France, 27 vinegar, 326 Tolu balsam, 166-168 new variety of, 167, 168 Tolu balsam, tincture, 229, 230 Toluene, 166, 167 Tonka beans, 191, 192 bean tincture, 231, 232 hair oil, 304 pomade, 294, 295 Tonkin musk, 178, 179 characteristics of, 180, 181 Tooth- and mouth-waters, 274-277 paste or odontine, 277, 278 pastes and tooth-powders, 277- 283 powder, Dr. Hufeland's, 280 powders and tooth-pastes, 277- 283 preparation of, 279 soap, 283 Dr. Hufeland's, 282, 283 tincture, Dr. Stahl's, 276 tinctures, use of, 276, 277 Trotula, works of, 26 Turkish geranium oil, palmarosa oil, geranium oil, 112 hair dye, 316 Turpentine, oil of, 148-150 conversion of, into lemon oil, 189, 190 TTNITED STATES, adaptation of U some districts of, for the culti- vation of plants, 33 VALERIAN 1C ether, or arnyl va- lerate, 214-216 ethyl ether, 216 Vanilla, 195, 196 hair oil, 303 pomade, 295 tincture, 232 Vanillin, 195-198 adulteration of, 198 preparation of, 196, 197 tincture, 232 Vaseline cold cream, 331 hair oil, 303 pomade, extra fine, 298 fine (yellow), 297 (red)", 297 (white), 297 pomades, 295-298 foundations for, 296 Venetian oil of turpentine, 148 Verbena oil, 150 tincture, 236 Vetiver oil, or vitivert oil, 150, 151 358 INDEX. Victoria hair oil, 304 pomade, 294 sachet powder, 258 vaseline pomade, 297, 298 Vinaigre de Bully, 324 de toilette, 325 de toilette a 1'heliotrope, 325 de toilette a la rose, 324 de toilette & la violette, 324 de toilette orange, 325 Vinegar, -aromatic, 325, 326 fumigating, 266 toilet, 326 Vinegars and essences, fumigating, 264-266 Violet-flower fumigating essence, 265 Violet fumigating pastilles, 270 powder/267 hair oil, 304 mouth-water, 275 oil of, 150 pomade, 295 tooth-powder, 279 Virginal milk, 326 Virginia vaseline pomade, 297 Vitivert-oil tincture, 236 Vitivert, or vetiver oil, 150, 151 tincture, 233 Volatile oil, apparatus for deter- mining the percentage of, in a vegetable sub- stance, 40, 41 apparatus for the distil- lation of, 41-46 Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86 separation of the, and 46,47 testing the odor of, 66 the taste of, 67 oils, 33-65 ancient method of distill- ing, 24 apparatus for the extrac- tion of, 48-57 characteristics of, 33 r 34 concentrated, 35 detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83 distillation of, 39-48 division of, with reference to the guaiacum reac- tion, 79, 80 Volatile oils, expression of, 36-39 extraction of, 48-58 extra strong, 35 for Cologne water, dura- bility of, 250, 251 localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the production of, 32, 33 modes of obtaining, 36-65 patented, 35 principal divisions of, 34 solubility of, 33 storage of, 65 testing of, 66-86 the, used in perfumery, 87-154 or essential oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31 WALNUT hair dye, 320 pomade, 295 shells, green, for dyeing the hair, 318 Washes, 326-328 Wash for the hands, 334 Water, fumigating, 266 separation of the, and oil, 4(5, 47 Wax pomade, cheap, 300 pomades, 298 White lead, 336 liquid paint, 341 paint, 337 rose solid perfume, 259 smelling salts, 260, 261 stick paint, 340 thyme oil, 147 tooth-powder, 280 Williams, F. R. , utilization of Mau- mene's test by, 82, 83 Wintergreen oil, 151-153 adulteration of, 153 tincture, 236 YLANG-YLANG hair oil, 303 oil, 153, 154 tincture, 236 sachet powder, 257 I Yunnan musk, 178, 179 7IBETHUM, 184, 185 h Zinc white, 336 RETURN TO the circulation desk of any University of California Library or to the NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station University of California Richmond, CA 94804-4698 ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 2-month loans may be renewed by calling (510)642-6753 1-year loans may be recharged by bringing books to NRLF Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date DUE AS STAMPED BELOW DEC 03 1994 n s ?nn? GENERAL LIBRARY - U.C. BERKELEY BQDD8bOD3M r UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY