i^ t. -' / ^ mmmiem HMi I TflOS. COOK k SON, 3, BOULEVARD DE LA REPUBLIQUE. 1908. M.W. AFRICA Comprisia^ MOHOCCO. ALGERIA &• TUNISIA. U.J tS /■JJican^ ■'/ ' 7 ^^ /5 I , ^ V , ' •TyV'^ g^i-s:^-'' ,^^^fjiou 1 - Ou^mii \ ir.^ »* . I' - LoD^tnili-Eut of Qreeznach A ,^ (Ti COOK S PRACT^ICAL GUIDE TO ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. Mitlj Jltaps, flans, anh HJUustrations. LONDON : THOS. COOK & SON, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.G. SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD. ALGIERS : ^ THOS. COOK ir SON, 3, BOULEVARD DE LA REPUBLIQUE. 1908. SRLF URL PREFACE. Among the several countries that attract the traveller desirous of exchanging the rigours of our English winter for sunshine and health, Algeria and Tunisia easily occupy the first rank. These countries compi-ising as they do so many favourable conditions of typical health-resorts, and containing so many varied attractions, are year by year frequented by an ever increasing number of visitors and tourists. The climate of Algeria and Tunisia is unique, and eminently adapted to the comfort of those who, wdiether from necessity or choice, winter abroad ; in addition the picturesque aspect of Arab life, of the white cities with their narrow streets; the historical souvenirs of these lands that from time to time have been subject to the Kings of Numidia, to the Roman Emperors, to Arab, Spanish, and Turkish conquerors, afford the learned and enquiring traveller an opportunity to h-tudy past civilisations, while the ordinary tourist will experience the enjoyment of a picturesque and beautiful country. The numerous hotels afford comfortable residence under excellent sanitary conditions; the access to these charming health resorts is easy ; and the cost of the voyage to Algiers or Tunis is less than to the Canaries or Madeira, the distance being so much shorter. iv PREFACE. The object of this book is to inform the traveller how to reach Algeria and Tunisia, and where to go when he gets there. Times of trains, steamers, etc., although carefully cliecked at time of going to press, should be verified on the spot, as they are liable to alteration from time to time. Concise information is afforded as to the most popular districts and principal places of interest, and the book is printed in clear, legible type, with the important places marked conspicuously, so as to readily arrest the eye. Tlie Editor will esteem it a favour if tliose who use this book will kindly point out any inaccuracies they may detect, or alterations they may deem advisable : and any suggestions of a practical nature for insertion in future editions will be gratefully acknowledged. THOS. COOK & SON. Ludgate Circus, London, 1908. Obligations are acknowledged to many authors, ancient and modern, such as Pliny, Strabo. Ptolemy, Apuleius, M. Leroy-Beaulieu. Sir H. Johnston, Sir Lambert Playfair, Pere Delattre, V. Giierin. M. Gauckler, Dr. Shaw, Gr, Charmes. On pp. 285, 286 will be found a list of Books of Keference concerning Algeria, and on p. 402 a similar list concerning Tunisia. M. Geiscr, MM. Vollcuweder and Borgeaud, of Algiers, and M. Garrigues, of Tunis, have allowed us the use of their admirable photographs. CONTENTS. Arabic Words and Phrases British Import Duties ... PAGE x-xviii xix PART I. ALGERIA. General Description of Algeria, 1-3 ; Climate, 3-6 ; Temperature (average), 7, 8 ; Mineralogy, 9; Agriculture, Horticulture, etc., 10-12 ; Hora and Fauna, 12, 13 ; Sport, 13. 14 ; Hot Springs, 1.5 ; Inhabitants, 1,5-18; Costumes, 18-21; Arab Marriages, 22. 23 ; Eailwavs, 24 ; Hotels, 24. 25 ; History, 25-29. PART II. ALGIERS. Routes to Algiers, 30, 31 ; Harbour, 31; Customs, 31. 32; Outtit, 32; Kailways, 32; Diligences, 32, 33; Money. 33; Cabs, 33-35; Tramways, 35; Light Eailways, 36, 37; General Information, 38, 39 ; Banks, Churches, Consulates, etc., 40; Postal. Telegram and Telephone Rates, 41.42: TrHm Rides and Walks, 42-44 : Carriage Tours and Excursions in Algeria, 44-48 ; Two Specimen Excursions, 48-50; Cook's Conducted Tours to Algeria and Tunisia, 50; Short Sea Route, 51 Algiers 30-51 52-89 PART III. THE ENVIRONS OF ALGIERS. Mustapha Agha, Mustapha Superieur, Colonne Voirol Birmandreis. Birkadem El Biar Bou Zarea through El Biar Dely Ibrahim and Douera ... St. -Eugene (Deux Moulins), Guyotville Pointe Pescade, Cap Caxiue. 90. 91 91,92 92.93 93. 94 94,95 95 VI CONTENTS. Staou61i and La Trappe (Monastery) Notre Dame d'Afrique, Vallee des Consuls Frais-Vallon Jardin d'Essai Le Ruisseau, Hussein Dey Maison Carrc^e Fort de I'Eau, Cape Matiiou Kovigo, Baths of Hanmiam Melouaii ... PA(iE !h;. 97 97, 98 98, 99 99-102 102. 103 10.S, 104 104, lO.-j 10.5-107 PART IV. THE INTERIOR. Districts West of Algiers. Algiers to Boufarik, Blidali, and the Gorges de la Chift'a 108-112 Algiers to Marengo, Cherchell, Tipaza, and the " Tombeau de la Chretienne" 113-119 Algiers to Colea (Castiglione) and the " Tombeau de la Chretieune" Algiers to Hamniam R'irha Algiers to Miliana, Teniet el Haad and the Cedar Forest ... Algiers to Laghouat (El-Laghouat) Algiers to Oran and Tlemgen (by rail) ... Oran Ilammam Selama Algiers or Oran to Sidi-bel-Abbes and TIem(;en (by rail) Excursions from Tlemc^en Oran to Tlemgeu by Ai'n-Teraouchent ... Oran to Mostanagem, Mostanagem to Tiaret (by rail) (Mascara) Oran to Beni-Saf and Nemours (by sua) Oraij to Beni-Saf and Nemours (by rail and road) Oran to Arzeu, to Mascan, Saida, Aiii-Selra, and Colomb- Bechar 188-19.5 120- -123 124- -130 131- -135 13ti- -140 141 IC.l 1,52- -Itjl 162 163- -172 172 -179 180, 181 182 -186 18(), 187 187 Districts East of Algiers. .Mgicrs to Tizi-Ouzou, etc. (Upper Kabvlia) ... Algiers to Bougie and the Chabet Pass Algiers to Bougie (by sea) ...* Algiers to Bougie (by rail) ... Bougie to Sctif (by the Chabet Pass) 196-207 208 208 208-210 211-215 CONTENTS. vii PAGK Algiers to Coustautine, Biskra and Hammam-Meskoutine 216-257 Lambessa 225,226 Timgad 226-228 El Kantara 230-232 Biskra 232-240 Excursions from Biskra ... ... ... ... ... 241-243 How to Spend Four Days at Biskra 243, 244 Hammam-Meskoutine ... ... ... ... ... 245-254 Excursions from Hammam Meskoutine ... ... ... 254-257 Algiers to Tunis (by rail) ... ... ... ... ... ... 258-266 Algiers to Tunis (by sea) {vid Philippeville and Bone) ... 267-271 Philippeville te Constantine (by rail) 272,273 Constantine 273-279 Excursions from Constantine 279,280 Bone 280-283 Excursions from Bone 283-285 Books relating to Algeria 285,286 TUNISIA. PART /. Tunisia. History, 289-297; Description, 297, 298; Climate, 298, 299; Inhabitants, 299-301 ; Agriculture, Horticulture, etc., 301, 302 ; Flora and Fauna, 302-304 ; Hot Springs, 304-306 ; Industries, .306 ; Commerce. 306, 307 ; Money, 307 ; Hotels, 307 289-307 PART 11. Tunis. Routes to Tunis, 311,312 : Description. 312-317 ; Environs, 317 : Carthage, 318-334 : Modern Tunis, 335-355 ; Hotels, 338. 339 : Restaurants. 339 : Theatre. Casino, etc., 339. 340 : Belvedere, Jardin d'Essai, etc., 340-343 : Public Buildings. 343-350 : English Enter- prise, 350 : Miscel aneous Information, 351 : Post, Telegraph and Telephone Office, 351.352: Public Carriages, 352 ; Tramways, 352, 353 : Tunis Directory, 353-3.55 " 308-355 PART III. Excursions from Tunis. Tunis to Hammam-Lif Tunis to Hammamet and Nabeul Tunis to Oudna and Zaghouan ... 356-358 358, 359 359-361 yiii CONTENTS. Tunis to Sousse. El-Djem and Kairouan EI=Djem Kairouan Excursions from Kairouan Tunis to Bizerta ... Bizerta Tunis to Dougga ... Tunis to La Khroumirie ... Tunis to Le Kef, Kalaat-es-Seuam and Kalaa-Djerda Tunis to the Island of Djerba, along the Coast Sfax to Gafsa and Metlaoui Tunis to Sousse. Gabes and Djerba Tunis to Tripoli (Barbary) Morocco Books relating to Tunisia Index PAGE H61-H74 367, 368 368-373 373. 374 374-379 376-378 379-381 381-385 38.0-389 390-399 395, 396 399 400 400, 401 402 40:3-420 Maps and Plans. Cook's Map of N. Africa, comprising Morocco, Algeria. Tunisia... Cook's Plan of Algiers Cook's Map of the Environs of Algiers Cook's Plan of Tunis Facing Title Page Facing Page 31 91 309 Illustrations. Bedouine Algerian Costumes ... Suburb of Algiers Algiers from the Sea Arab commencing Prayer .Algiers, Inner Harbour and Lighthouse; Notre Dame d'Afrique (Church) Hammam E'irha (View) ... Oran (from the Sea) Mosque of Sidi Haloui, Tlennjen Cascade of El Ourit, Tlem^en . Village in Kabylia ... Theatre at Timgad PAGE 6 19 43 53 57 64 76 125 153 170 177 198 227 CONTENTS. Arch of Trajan, Timgad EI Kantara (View) Street in Biskra Native Gourbi, Biskra ... Hot Springs, Hammam Meskoutine Cones — The Arab Marriage Constantine (View) Mosque in Bone ... Bab Sidi-Abdallah (Gate) Avenue de la Marine, Tunis ... Arab Interpreter and Family... Jewess and Daughter ... Cafe Maure Sousse El Djem Amphitheatre... Mosque of the Swords. Kairouan IX PAOE . 229 . 231 . 235 . 241 . 250 . 252 . 274 . 281 . 309 . 336 . 337 . 342 . 344 . 365 . 369 . 372 ARABIC WORDS AND PHRASES. ENGLISH — ARABIC. ANIMALS. a calf, oohreejf a cat, kett a cow, beggra a dog, helb a horse, aood a m&ie, feress camel, djeniel cats, ktett chicken, djedad cock, serdooli dogs, klab donkey, hmar duck, brack gazelle, gzal goat, mahza goose, oua/z jackal, deeb lion, aba lizard, dob mosquito, 7iamons mule, bcijhla panther, mncr rabbit, arneb turkey, serdook el hend cannon, vietfah gun, moukahla pistol, kabons ARMS. powder, bnrood shot, chatniah sword. Kcef bed, frach blanket, ferraohia BEDDING, carpet, bsath mattress, mettrali COLOURS. black, akhal blue, azrek colour, loon green, akdar red, ahmer white, abiod yellow, sfcr FLOWERS, TREES, ETC. date tree, nakhala dwarf palm, dom flowers, noiiarh garden, djencm jasmine, yasmeen jujube, annab lily, sissan oak, zaii, oleander, dejfa, olive, zeitonn pink, krenfell rose, oorda ARABIC WORDS AND PHRASES. XI FOOD. bread, hhohx butter, zibda ■coffee, kaoi'.a fish, hoot fowl, djedad honey, aiSdada, happiness S'ba, the lion Saheehad, the beautiful Sabe.tjha, tribal land iSafa.r. yellow Safcl, lower part Sahara, desert plain Saharidj, cisterns Saheb, owner, companion SaJiel, coast Said, lord or master, a title given by the Arabs to the lion Sakia, canal for irrigation Sebala, fountain Scbd, lion Sebliha, salt lake ScM, seventh, Saturday Sedra, jujube tree Seijhir, small Soil, torrent Sekkin, knife Scksov, Kabyle name for couscous Sfa, schist Shah am, fat, grease Shirk, east *S''. or Sidi, my Lord Siloit. underground receptacles for corn SIdfa, vestibule of a Moorish house Sinala, small fort occupied by Spahis Sof, league, confraternity XVlll LIST OF ARABIC WORDS. Souk, market Souma7i, minaret Sour, rampart Spain, a native cavalry officer in tlie French service Tdam, food ; couscous Tamtam, a large flat metallic drum Tell, plains Telia, small hill Temeah, crocodile Tenia, a defile Teniet, mountain top, path TMzzi, a mountain defile Thuia, a lignum vitse Tolbas, learned men Toiira, sluice To)vll. long. Fem. TowUa Yatagan, a kind of knife or poignard Znh. PI. Zlhati, an oasis watered by a river Zan, an oak Zamiia. college, convent, or place of refuge for religious mendi- cants Zareefeh, the elegant Zeitonn, olive Zclika, tax on cattle Zerh, hedge Zeriia, cattle enclosure XIX BRITISH IMPORT DUTIES, DOCK DUES, Etc. BRITISH IMPORT DUTIES. s. d. Spirits, proof (in cask) per gall. 11 4 ,, (in bottle) ,. 12 4 Liqueurs ... ... ... ... •■• •■• ;> 16 4 Spirits, perfumed, and Bau de Cologne „ 19 1 Tea per lb. Coffee „ Cocoa ... ... ... ... ... ■•• ••• )> ,, Raw ... ... ... ... ... ••■ )) " Tobacco ... ... ... ••• ••• ••• ?! 3 „ Cavendish, manufactured ... ... •, 4 ,, Cigars ... ... ... •■• ••• m 6 "Wine in cask, not exceeding 30 degrees of proof per gall. 1 bottle. ,, 30 ,, „ 2 cask. ,. 42 ,, „ 3 bottle „ 42 ,. r, 4 Articles containing sugar in any quantity are also liable to a small charge for duty, such as :— dried fruits, confectionery, honey, preserved ginger, jams, condensed milk, candied peel, tamarinds, fruit, and vege- tables preserved in sugar, etc. All articles subject to duty should be distinctly and specially declared, and it is advisable to place such articles in one package in order to facilitate the Customs' clearance. All dutiable articles, however small in quantity, are liable to duty on entering the United Kingdom, but the Customs' authorities usually allow passengers to bring free of duty : — Cigars and tobacco ... ... ... i lb. Cordials and perfumed spirits ... ^ pint. Spirits i pint. This cannot, hoNvever, be claimed as a right. Quantities above i lb. of cigars or tobacco, and i pint of spirits, are subject to the full duty, no free allowance being made. ;> 1-^ 2 1 10 4 3 3 All duties are subject to alteration from time to time. XX DOCK DUES IN LONDON. (TF//e?i hafjfjai/c in lauded direct from Steamer into Customs' shed and examined immediately. ) Chairs, hat boxes, etc. Gladstone bags, gun cases, not exceding 56 lbs. Portmanteaux, etc., not exceeding 1 cwt. Packages, not exceeding 1^ cwt. ... 2i „ Each •'»', d. 6 1 u 1 6 2 6 3 , v PAliT I. ALGERIA. TNTRODUCTORY. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ALGERIA. Algeria is bounded on the east by the Regency of Tunis ; on the west by the Empire of Morocco ; on tlie south by the Great Desert of Sahara ; and by the Mediterranean Sea on tlie north. Its greatest length from the River Zayne, oi: the Tunis boundary, to Twent, on the Western frontier, is about 600 miles ; its breadth varies from 300 to 400 miles. The chain of the Atlas mountains runs through the wliole length of tlie country. The principal river of Algeria is the Cheliff, wliich lias its sources within the borders of the Sahara, south of the Ouarsenis mountains ; it reaches the soa near Mostaganem, after a course of 400 miles. During the rainy season it overflows a great tract of country, and sometimes interferes with the road transit between Algiers and the province of Gran. The other rivers are : the Isser, to the east of Algiers; the Zowah, oi- river of Bujeiah ; the Oued el Kebir (Ampsaga of the Ancients), wliich flows into the sea, north of Constantine ; and the 5eybouse, or river of Bune. The natural divisions of Algeria are three : the Tell, the High Plateaux, and the Sahara. The Tell is a narrow strip of cultivated land, hundreds of miles in length, some 30 to 100 miles in breadth, between the seashore and the mountains. The ridges of the Atlas enclose three great plains, the " plaine du Sheleef " (Cheliff), the *'plaino de la A I 2 ALGERIA AM) TUNISIA. Mitidja," and the " plaine du Sahel." The Tell is well watered by important rivers as far apart as the Cheliff, the Macta, the Oued el-Kebir, the Seybouse, and the Rummel, the rich agricultural land being intersected by small mountains and valleys thickly wooded. The grandest scenery and the most interesting population of the Tell are to l)e found in the mountain district of the Djurdjura, inhalnted by tlie Kabyles, between Dellys, Menerville, and Bougie. The entire extent of the Tell covers, in round figures, 35,000,000 acres. The High Plateaux, running from east to west between the Tell and the Sahara, are uncultivated plains between mountain ranges, some 3,000 feet above sea level. Large quantities of alfa or esparto grass are collected for exporta- tion, and the interminable scrub serves to feed the camels and sheep of the Arabs. During the rainy season, and wherever water is found, cereal crops are eagerly raised. Several small rivers take their rise at the 'foot of the moimtain ranges, and in the plains large salt depressions or lakes called Chotts are formed. The High Plateaux extend over 27,000,000 acres. To the south are the vast Aures Mountains between Batna and Biskra, stretching 75 miles from E. to AV., and 40 miles from N. to S. The Sahara, a veritable furnace, is an immense desert extending over 125,000,000 acres, varying considerabh" in its nature. Tn some parts, towards Tunis, the soil is a mixtu='e of sand and clay ; in others, to the west towards Morocco, are rocky districts and mountains, the rivers rushing from wliich are utilised to produce the oases b)'^ forming dams and canals for irrigation. In other directions the desert is a moving mass of sand-forming dunes. In various parts of the Sahara are depressions producing , immense sheets of water, not very deep, Salter than the sea, , and sometimes below sea level. These are called Chotts. I One of these, on the west or Morocco border of the desert, the Chott el^Chergui, between Saida and Ain Sefra, is about 100 miles long, and the Chott El-Melghir, between Biskra^ and Tougourt, is 170 miles in length. DEPARTMENT ALLY AND POLITICALLY. Alg(>ria, under the direction of a Governor-General, is divided into three provinces, administered by Prefects and sub • Prefects — Algipi'i^, Oran, and Constantijie, CLIMATE. 3 Algiers, the central province, has five sub-Prefects — at Algiers, Milianah, Medea, Orleansville, and Tizi-Ouzou. Oraii, forming the western part of the colony adjoining Morocco, has five sub-Prefects, at Oran, Mostaganem, Mascara, 8idi-Bel- Abbes, and TlenK^en. Constantine, between Algiers and Tunis, has six sub- Prefects — at Constantine, Bone, Philippeville, Guelma, Bougie, and Setif. In May, 1903, M. Ch. Jonnart was appointed Governor- General OP Algeria in succession to M. Paul lievoil, appointed 1901, formerly French Minister in Morocco. The Commandei'-in-Chief of the ^Nlilitaiy Force in Algeria is General G. O. Serviere. The civil Governor-General is the central administrative authority of Algeria. A small extent of territory in tlie Sahara is still administered by the military authorities, but under the direction of the Governor. The French Chambers have alone the right of legislating for Algeria, and such matters as do not come within the legislative power are regulated by decree of the President of the Republic. In December, 1902, a law was j^assed constituting the Territories of the South under a separate administration, for which an annual subvention is provided in the French budget. The Governor-General will represent the Territories in civil affairs. Tlie Governor-General is assisted by a council, whose functions are purely consultative. The Colonial budget is discussed and voted by a Superior Council, meeting once a year, to whicl^ delegates are sent by each of the departmental general councils. Each department sends one senator and two deputies to the National Assembly. CLIMATE. The climate of tlie country north of the Atlas is generally healthy and temperate. As a rule, the first rains begin to fall towards the end of October. The early part of an Algerian winter is very enjoyable, viz., that during the months of November and December. January, February, and March have plenty of both sunshine and rain. April and May resemble a fine English summer. The climate of the interior is not so damp as that of the coast, but the 4 ALGEETA AND TUNISIA. heat is much greater. Some towns situated like Medea and Constantine are extremely cold in the winter. Others, like Orleansville and Biskra, are unbearable in the summer. Generally speaking, the climate on the coast is very healthy and bracing. Those who like Algeria may convenientl}" prolong their stay at Algiers or Oran as late as June with- out much fear of extreme heat. The real heat only sets in seriously about the end of July ; August, September, and October being ver}' warm months. There are considerable ditferences of opinion among medical authorities concerning the geniality of the climate of Algeria,, but a glance at the temperature table on p. 7 Avill at once prove that the average temperature of Algiers is warmer by several degrees than that of the Riviera towns and the western coast of Italy. Again, the superiority of Algiers from a climatic point of view is the evenness of its tem- perature and the mildness of its atmosphere, which recom- mend it to the most delicate constitutions. Mr. Alex. A. Knox, who has had the most valuable experience on this subject, declares, in his work " Algeria, or the New Plav- ground," that Algeria is good for asthma. Mr. Reynolds- Ball, who has also had an excellent opportunity of testing the comparative advantages of the various towns on the Mediterranean coast, says in his " Mediterranean Winter Resorts " : " Algiers is to be recommended for most forms of pulmonary consumption, for affections of the heart, and for Bright's disease." As a cure for bronchitis, when open-air treatment is the pre- scribed formula of the physician, Algiers can claim the first place, because the mildness of its temperature, combined with the dryness of its atmosphere, renders its climate without parallel amongst healtli resorts. The atmosphere of Algiers allows out-of-door patients to remain in the open air the greater part of the day in the midst of winter. It is not wise, however, to remain out of doors after sunset in the months of December, January, and Febi'uary, without chang- ing clothes or donning a thick overcoat, as the thermometer records a difference of several degrees between the hours of four and seven. Delicate people should pay great attention to this, and so avoid colds and influenzas, which are frequent in Algiers in winter. According to recent statistics, tlie proportion of deaths from pulmonary consumption among the European population CLIMATE. 5 of Algeria during a period of six years, was one in fort)/, while the proportion of deaths from the same disease in Paris and London was one in Jive. No bad fever or other endemic diseases are prevalent in Algeria ; in short, the winters are mild and genial, and per- fectly appropriate to invalids whose health requires another summer at the expiration of the home season. Dr. Gandil, an eminent French physician, has published (in 1889) a very interesting report on the climate of Algiers. In this report. Dr. Gandil gives the averages of maxima and minima which the thermometer registered during the winter season 1888-89 at Nice, Algiers, Biskra, and Paris. It will be interesting to learn that on no single occasion during six winter months has the temperature of Nice risen to the heat of Algiers, nor has the thermometer at Algiers once gone down so low as it has in Nice. The difference, is on an average, five to six degrees Centigrade, with much greater variations in Nice during each twenty-four hours. From November to February Algiers registered the warmest temperatures as compared with those of Biskra, Nice, and Paris. In February Algiers and tlie fit)/ of the Desert (Biskra) are on a parallel ; in April Biskra goes to the front and takes an advance, which it keeps right through the summer, and which Dr. Gandil thinks it best for Biskra to retain. Nice comes far behind, and Paris is down at the bottom of the self-recordin" thermometer. But the most curious remark Dr. Gandil makes is this one : thai there its less difference beiiveen the climates of Paris and Xice than between those of Xice and Algiers. Rainfall. — In the agricultural districts the rainfall to ensure good crops should be about 36 inches, but in Algiers itself the average is 29-30 inches. Rain falls on 70 to 80 days during the 365, but only a small proportion of these are entirely " wet days," and a considerable percentage of the rain falls during the night. There is very little cold N.E. wind, and still less Mistral during the winter. The prevailing wind bringing ram and cold blows from the N.AV., and seldom lasts more than a day or two. Hailstorms occur at intervals, but frost and snow are almost unknown. The desert wind (sirocco), which in the spring or summer may be insufferably hot, is not at all trying even to in\alids in winter, and its duration rarely exceeds three days. 6 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. Taken altogether, Algiers is the healthiest winter residence within three days of England, but visitors must not expect a tropical and rainless climate — for these they must go further afield to, say, Cairo, Luxor, or Assouan. The climate of Algiers is warmer and more onic than that of Pau, Cannes, and Mentone, and in cases of phtliisis and asthma, bronchitis, and other pulmonary affections, the conditions are most favourable to the invalid. IMCHDUINK CLIMATE. d o o o o o o o o C' c o ^ o o p CO ~- DO I—H l^ lO l~ ^ 05 CO (M eo 00 Oi lO cc S^ ^ Tti -* -* »o lO CO -* -^ -* -* ■ o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 7> i-i -n to 1^ a lO 1« to to -* •rH lO lO in 0) 'bn O o o o o o o o o o o O o o o < o 1— 1 (M (M 00 -* Oi f—< o 03 CO -* o lO eo to to to to c~ t- to to to to to "O ?^ bD o o O o o o o o o o o o o o s < 00 1-H lO (M 1—1 -* CO CO oo 1- lO M -H to t- to CO t- t- t^ t- t~ t^ t~ t- t^ t- t- E o O >» w o e o o o o o o o o o o o ^ t- CO m -* (M -H -H 1^ CO IC >n :o eo CO »-s t> «o to t~ l.^ t- t^ t^ 00 t^ t- t- t- l^ c 0) a -* o o o o o o o o o o o o o o r-l Oi c-l o CO -H c-l -M o CO CO f-H lO CO t-s t' lO to t- l- l^ l- t- 00 t- I- t~ t^ l^ H t^ o o o o o o o o o o o o o +j lO -* l^ (rq cq to on -* t^ 00 '* (M IS C5 c CD lO lO to to to to to t- to to to to to 4> •rH O) o o o o o o o o o o o o o ^ P^ o t^ o (M o -H CO 00 o eo lO 00 CO ^ <1 s -* lO >o lO lO IC lO t^ lO lO lO lO in Q <*-< c3 o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o S. t- IM ■* (M on 00 OS m iM »-c Oi 1^ o I— i U3 "^l ^ ^ -* -* -* lO to -* ^ -* in in V fc. 3 ,o lO o o O o o o o o o o o o o ti m 10 o> OS on to to lO ^ en t^ -* t^ t^ l^ s ^ ec 5C cS ^ I- en tw (3 I-H < a 1 02 • rH < o o 1-3 re S-l o >^ is IK 02 p^ V o o 1—) eS 03 o •r-« cS O 'S > a o P5 • r-l -t-3 ■4-3 o o 03 o 03 ■+J o r—l 03 8 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. Average Temperature (Fahrenheit) Registered at Algiers in 13 years. Coviplled from olserrations made hy Algerian Gorcrnment officials at the Military Hospital. i ^. Tj . '^ 1 Ce rr. -/ Thermometer 300 y ds. day. maxi- 3 year night. n in 13 rs. day. niaxi- 3 year 1 U 5 £ as from sea-be: u'h : =.00 +^ -^ f-( ■*i 3 r. t^^^ 0-^ ■*-2 '{■"J feet above sea-lev el; U J. p '^ a >■ ^la S-c g.9 btg %t^ six feet from ground. Hot Higl mum -5.9 ^i "1 ^1 54 January ■ •• 77 32 • 48 60i 48 62 February .. 75 32^ 48 62 48 2^ 55i 63 March 82i 34 51 64 50 57 66 April 95i 37 50 68i 53i 61 70 May .. 89^ 45^- 57 73i 58i 66 72i June lul 53 66 78i 63i 71 10 July 102 57i 75i 84i 69 76i 77 August 111 56^ 75 86i 70 78 82i September .. 109 53i 68i 83 68 75^ 79 October 97 44 61i 75i 61 68i- 79 November .. 84^ 40 53i 66i 54 60i 68i December .. 77i 34 50 61 i- 48i- 55 66 During the winter of 1903-4, the most inclement for 40 years, the average temperatures at Algiers for December and January were 58°"4 maximum and 49° minimum, as com- pared with Nice for the corresponding period, 51°-9 and SO'-l' respectively. Thermometrical Equivalents. While Fahrenheit's scale is generally used in England, those of Centigrade and Reaumur are used on the Continent. The following table will sliow the differences of the three thermometers : — Fahrenheit. Centigrade. Reaumur. Observations. 212-0 100-0 80-O Boiling. 203-0 95-0 76-0 194-0 90-0 72-0 185-0 85-0 68-0 176-0 80-0 64-0 167-0 75-0 60-0 158-0 70-0 56-0 Ml^EKALUGY. Thermometrical Equivalents — continued. 9 Fahrenheit. Centigrade. Reaumur. Observations. 1490 65-0 52-0 UO-0 60-0 48-0 131-0 55-0 44-0 122-0 50-0 40-0 113-0 45-0 36-0 104-0 40-0 32-0 98-6 37-0 29-6 Blood. 95-0 35-0 28-0 86-0 30-0 24-0 77-0 25-0 20-0 75-2 24-0 19-2 Summer. 68-0 20-0 16-0 59-0 15-0 12-0 55-4 13-0 10-4 Tcmporate. 50-0 10-0 8-0 41-0 5-(l 4-0 39-2 4-0 3-2 37-4 3-(l 2-4 35-6 2-0 1-6 33-8 1-0 0-8 32-0 0-0 0-0 Freezing. To turn Centigrade into Fahrenheit, multiply by 9, divide by 5. and add 32. thus : — 40 Centigrade x 9 = 360^5 = 72 + 32 = 104 Fahrenheit. To turn Eeaumur ibto Fahrenheit multiply by 2^ and add 32, thus: — 40 Reaumur x 2X 90 + 32 = 122 Fahrenheit. MINERALOGY. Althougli the forests of Algeria supply many ornamental woods to the metropolis, the fine marbles and onyx of the country rival the timbers in the delicate beauty of their shades. Ores of iron, copper, lead, zinc, and manganese are worked with advantage ; extensive deposits of rock salt occur, sometimes whole mountains of salt are to be met on the roads . of the interior, also large salt lakes and marshes. An English company established at Beni = Saf (thirty-two kilometres] from Oran) for the ex^^ortation of copper and iron ore is doing a Aery important trade, and is said to pay large dividends to its shareholders. Building stone is plentiful, but some of the best quality is shipped from France and Italy. 10 ALGERIA AND TUNIS [A. AGRICULTURE, HORTICULTURE, Etc. The fertility for which Algeria was renowned in olden times still continues ; in the valleys, which are watered by streams, and rivulets, agriculture and vegetation are extremely flourishing, especially in the Tell, in the provinces of Oran and Constantine. The mould is general!}' of very dark colour, in some places it is reddish and impregnated with nitre and with salt. Tlie hills are covered with fruit trees of every kind, the quality of the fruit being exquisite. Cereals. — Wheat is the principal cereal grown in the colon}-, but notwithstanding the advantages of soil and climate, the result is disappointing. Different systems of agriculture are carried on in different districts, but in all of them there is much room for improvement. The land is not cleared from weeds, little manure is employed, and the ploughing is too superficial. While in England the average produce of the wheat crop is from 22 to 27 bushels an acre, in Algeria it does not exceed 8 bushels. Barley, rye, oats, and maize are grown to some extent. In the 40 millions of acres under cultivation, about 350 million bushels of cereals are produced. Fruit and Vegetables. — All kinds of fruits and vegetables jrow in abundance, many of them available throughout the year. Of fruits may be mentioned plums, apricots, cherries, apples, pears, bananas, pomegranates, melons, and straw- berries. Figs thrive almost evervwhere, even in the moun- tains, where they are a common article of food. Tangarines and oranges are as delicious as they are plentiful and cheap, an:l are exported in large quantities to France and England. The date tree — of which there are hundreds of varieties — requires great solar heat, and can only be cultivated to per- fection in or near the desert of Sahara, affording a most valuable food for the Arabs of that region. The trees flower in Marcli, and the fruit is ripe in October. The trees are between 30 and 40 feet high, are in full bearing when 27 years old, and flourish for 100 years. But M-hen they are dead they are not done with, the wood is used for fuel and for building purposes, the roots for fencing and roofing, and the leaves are made into cord, sacks, mats, and baskets. To})acco is cultivated over a large extent of land, and is good in quality, considerable quantities being sliippcd to & AGKICULTURE, HORTICULTURE, ETC. 11 Spain and England. The sugar cane grows, and the cultiva- tion of cotton, although unprofitable to the farmer, is of long standing. Esparto grass or alfa is a valuable natural production of the High Plateaux, wliere some 16 million acres are covered with this fibre. It is used chiefly for the manufacture of paper, and until recently about 60 per cent, of the total export was sent to England, but now that wood pulp is being largely used in the manufacture of paper in England, the demand for alfa has fallen ofl". The most important and successful branch of agriculture in Algeria is undoubtedly vine-growing. M. Dejernon, who was sent by the French Government to examine the subject, reports as follows : — " In my eyes the vine is a providential plant for Algeria ; it prospers everywhere, in the worst land, on the most burn- ing soil. In the three provinces I have not found a spot which is unfit for it ; everywhere also, but especially on tlie littoral, I have tasted wine rich in alcohol, and which would have had precious qualities if only it had been better made. The vine will become the fortune of the country. . . . Algeria possesses in its geological structure, in the rays of its sun, in the currents of its air, in its topographical details, those precious qualities which give to the products of the vine their tone, tlieir colour, their delicacy and limpidity. It can produce an infinite variety of wines, suited to every constitution and to every caprice of taste." Vegetables. — Many and varied are the species of vegetables that grow to perfection in Algerian soil, such as cucumbers, gherkins, gourds, beetroots, lettuces, p.arsnips, carrots, turnips, green peas, artichokes, asparagus, beans, potatoes, cauliflowers and mushrooms. Onions and potatoes yield two crops yearly. The artichokes, peas, and potatoes are shipped through the winter on a very large scale to France and England. The asparagus from the region of Medea has acquired a very higli and well-deserved reputa- tion. Trees and Forests. — Leaving out the Sahara, where the ordinary tourist is not likely to visit, the finest forests of date palm trees will be found at El Kantara, Biskra, and El- Aghouat. The india-rubber tree, which was imported from Ceylon in 1863, has become quite acclimatized in Algeria, ;ind in some cases lias attained colossal proportions. 12 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. Bamboos thrive vigorously in many districts, and, as a rule, every species of Indian, Chinese, or American palms develop splendidly. The mulberry tree flourishes readily in various parts of the country. The ricinus (castor-oil plant) of Japan, and the eucalyptus globulus (blue gum tree) from Australia have been introduced A\'ith excellent results. Of forest trees the most valuable are the cork oak, which, when it has reached the age of fifteen years, is stripped of its bark, and this operation is repeated every ten years. The gum oak, an excellent timber for building purposes, bridges, railway sleepers, etc. The sweet acorn oak, a valuable tree which grows in almost any soil, and yields acceptable food. The sweet acorns are eaten roasted, or ground into flour and used with " couscous," a favourite national dish of the Arabs. The Atlas cedar is chiefly to be found in the Aures Mountains, notably at Teniet-el-Haad, and at Djebel Tougourt near Batna. The olive tree grows freely in Algeria and Tunisia, and its cultivation is increasing in both countries. The former pro- duces about 6^ million gallons of olive oil annually and the latter nearly as much. The Atlas cypress, the mountain ash indigenous to the Atlas, the Aleppo pine, and other species floui'ish over large extents of land. It is estimated there are twelve to fourteen million trees spread over some five luillion acres of land in the three proA inces of Algiers, Oran, and Constantine. FLORA AND FAUNA. Flora. — Witli the exception of some indigenous plants such as the dwarf palm, the cistus, the agave, and the tree heath, the flora of Algeria is practically identical with that of Southern Europe. In one field may be seen masses of iris and narcissus ; in another wild hyaciiaths, violets, and African cyclamen. The flowers usually cultivated in the gardens, and sold in the streets or shops, are rose'', carnations, geraniums, lilies, violets, jessamine and various creepers, most of which bloom throughout tlie winter. Tliere are extensive plantations of nessri, or white roses ; these SPORT. 13 tlo\v.n-.s are much larger than tliose of Europe, and yield the attar of roses essence. Fauna. — Among the animals of Algeria nearly all those of the domestic kind are to be found. Cows are small, and give l>ut little milk. As a result of the native system of feeding calves on grass a fortnight or so after their birth, and withdrawing milk from their food as soon as it can be done, the veal is tough and black, has no flavour, and is usually of inferior quality. Most of the beef and veal of good qualit}^ is imported daily from France, especially in tlie winter season. Algeria and Morocco are the original countries of the Merino sheep. The flocks of sheep bred on the High Plateaux are a great source of wealth, many thousands being sent to Paris monthly during the summer, (loats are very numerous, and supply the people with milk The horses are well known to be excellent, but except at the military studs, such as the one at Blidah, it is diflicult to meet with the pure bred original Arab steed. Asses are very commonly used, but are not such a fine species as formerly. The camel is a most valuable animal to the Arab of the desert, and is considered superior to that of Asia ; some very good cheese is made out of its milk. When the animals are old they are fattened for killing, the flesh being wholesome. The interior of the country abounds with wild boars, porcu- pines, gazelles, and all sorts of game. In the fastnesses of the Atlas Mountains panthers and leopards, and sometimes lions are to be met witli but no tigers. SPORT. In the neighljourhood of Algiers, or, indeed, in the easily accessilile districts of Algeria, the shooting is scarcely good, the country presenting an aspect too settled, and those who come out chiefly with a view to sport will generally be disappointed, but in some places not too far from the radius of the Chelifl", especially in the regions of the Hammam R'irha and Cherchell, there are many partridges and woodcocks, hares, and birds of passage (mid-March to mid- April). No one is allowed to shoot without a licence, which costs 28 francs (22s. 6d.) ; persons wishing to obtain a licence can do so through their respective consulates. The shooting season opens in August, and closes in February [see also p. 129). 14 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. As stated on p. 32, the importation of gunpowder or filled cartridges is absolutely forliidden. Empty cartridges with percussion caps may be brought in, but no good houses for filling cartridges are to be found. Neither Harvey cartridges nor good English powder can be bought in Algiers. Gazelles are generally hunted by Arabs on swift horses, riding them down until they are tired, then firing amongst them at short distance. Wild Boars are very destructive, and are willingly hunted by the Arabs. Two or three friends, with the help of about 20 Arabs as beaters, can readily organise a jiarty for the chase of these animals, and sometimes kill a number of them. Falcons are generally found in the Djebel Amour district. When the Arabs have succeeded in taming one, no money in the world would tempt them to part with the bird. A chasse aa faucon, such as a visitor would wish to enjoy, can be organised with the help of the military authorities in the south of Algeria. At Biskra, a wealthy Arab Sheikh owns a rare collection of falcons. Well-trained falcons are used for hunting partridges, large birds (such as bustards), and hares. Ostriches are now becoming very scarce, and are only to be met with on the borders of tlie Sahara. Their capture is extremely difficult, as they quite easily outstrip the fastest of horses. Ostrich eggs are commonly sold at fi'om 6s. to 1 2s. each. One has to take care not to be imposed upon with imitations. Tlie best way to detect tlie fraud is by sounding them with a key. The real ostrich egg is extremely light and thin, although strong and resistant, while the spurious egff is heavy, and sounds dull. There is a small establishment for breeding and domesticating ostriches in the Jardin d'Essai (see p. 99). For the destruction of wild animals, such as lions, hyaenas, panthers, and jackals, the Government jaays a reward varying from 40 francs to 2 francs. Hundreds of lions, thousands of panthers and hyamas, and tens of thousands of jackals have been killed during the last twenty-five years. Lion, ]iya?na, or panther liuntiiig is now very rare, the two former animals are nearly extinct, but the panther is still found in (several districts, notably between Azazga and Taourirt-Tghil in .l\al)ylia {^cr p. 204), and jackals may be sliot in the forests around Hamniam R'irlia, within four hours of Algiers. INHABITANTS. 15 HOT SPRINGS. In Algei'i;i, iis in Tunisia, there are a number of hot mineral springs, the pi-incipal of which are those of Hammam R'irha (sf'c p. 124), Hammam Meiouan (^^v p. KJG), Hammam Meskoutine (^v p. 245), Hammam Salahin (sw p. 240), Hammam = bou = Hadjar (see p. 180), Hammam Selama (.sw p. 162), Fortes de Fer (.w p. 221), and Bains de la Reine, near Oran (see p. 161). These are described at the vn,rious pages referred to. INHABITANTS. The races that inhabit Algeria are : The Arabs, Moors, Kabyles, Turks and Couloug^lis, Jews, and Negroes from the Soudan, exclusive of European settlers, visitors, and speculators. The native population of Algeria may be separated into two divisions, the AralDs including the Moors; and the Berbers including the Kabyles. Tlie Arabs of the Plain live in tents or in gourbis (huts), and are divided into tribes, changing from place to place as circumstances may require. They are filthy and lazy in their habits, and only trouble themselves about two kinds of work — agriculture and the raising of sheep and cattle. They came into tlie country from Arabia and Egypt in the 7th and 8th centuries, and occupied the plains, driving the Berbers, their predecessors, into the mountain districts. The Moors constitute the bulk of the Arab population of the towns. They are a very mixed race, sprung from the various nations who have successively occupied the country. The Arabian stock, however, which was engrafted on the population existing at the time of the Mussulman conquest, is supposed to predominate. Their number was much swelled by the Moors who were driven away from Spain. The Moors are farther advanced in civilisation than the Arabs or the Kabyles ; they are used to the comforts of the towns ; many of them are wealthy, and fond of luxury and pleasure ; but their moral character stands very low. They are not deficient in intelligence. All the boys frequent the scliools, where they learn reading, writing and arithmetic at trifling cost, elementary instruction having been established at Algiers for ages past on a method somewhat resembling the Lancasterian. (The Jews came in great numbers to Algiers on being Iriven out of Italy, Spain and Portugal in the fourteenth 16 ALGERIA AND TUxNFSIA. ceiituiy. They live chiefly in the towns. They are, as everj''- where else, brokers, agents, jobbers, retailers, hawkers, etc. ; many of them are rich, and their condition has been greatly improved since the decree of French citizenship conferred upon them by the French Government in 1871. The well- known Hebrew feature which characterises this race is not so prominently marked in the Algerian Jews as is the case with their European bretliren. Their features are pleasant and less suggestive of tlie propensities whicli are supposed to form the basis of their character. Mr. George Gaskell, in his clever work, entitled " Algeria As It Is," describes them as " industrious, enterprising, and, although fond of money, often satisfied with small profits, to the great disgust of tlie other traders, whom they sometimes find it good polic}' to undersell." True, some of them are reall}' despicable, but then so are many of the heterogeneous tribes of Spaniards, Maltese, Ai'abs, and even French, who constitute the lower orders and classes of Algiers. The Kabyles or Berbers have undergone no change whatever since the French occupation. They were justly described by Sallust as " a race which possesses a robust and healthy constitution, v.'liich can resist great fatigue ; they are men who succumb onl}' to age or under the teeth of wild animals." Such as they were a thousand years ago, so they are to-day, compact, and unaltered in all the peculiarities of their race and individuality. F-o' further description of the Kahyles see Count Starkelberg^s accmmt, on p 205. The population of Algeria, according to tlie census of 1901, amounted to abo\it 4,700,000 inhabitants for the three provinces, of whom about 4,000,000 are natives (Berbers or Arabs), as follows : — French 292,000 Spaniards ... ... ... ... ... 155,000 Italians 38,000 Maltese 15,000 Arabs 1 Kabyles Mohammedans 3,973,000 Mozabites ) Jews... 57,000 Different Nationalities 170,000 Total 4,700,000 IXI1A151TAXTS. 17 The population of Algiers alone, including the suburljs of )St. Eugene, Birkhadem, Birmandreis, El Biar, Agha, Mustapha, and Bouzarea, is composed as follows : — French 65,000 Jews 12,000 Mohammedans 34,000 Foreigners ... ... ... ... ... 43,000 Total 154,000 The Spaniards are very numerous in Algeria, and especially in Oran and the province of Oran, where tliey tmmber 120,000. They are subjected to militar}' service in the French army, and granted the benefit of French citizen- sliip, unless they prefer to return to perform their military duties in their mother country, in which case they retain their original nationality. The Maltese element predominates at Bone and the Tunisia frontier. They are subjected to the same regulations as the Spaniards as concerns military duty and nationality. The Negroes are as much Mohammedans in Algeria as tney are Christians in the United States. Religion means to them a drum and some money to buy rum with. The free- nigger expariment has been tried by the French in Algiers, not dogmatically, but almost unconsciously, for sixty years. Sambo in Algiers is held by authority to be as good as any other man. The Europeans, the Arabs, the Jews and the Negroes, all enjoy equal rights. The Arabs often intermarry with Negresses. The French Government, and indeed the French settlers, do npt entertain the slightest prejudice against the Negro on account of the ebony colour of his skin. They never have done so In fact, the Negro is even poi)ular j among the ladies ; he is termed Boule de Neig". The Zouaves are arm-in-arm companions of the Turcos. The .Negro enjoys the full rights of a French subject, and is equal before the law to any other Frenchman. The Negro women often officiate as shampooers in the Hammams or Moorish baths, or as peripatetic bakers of gaieties, or pancakes, and sorceresses. The Negroes of Algeria nearly all originate from the Soudan, whence they were formerly brought out as slaves and sold in the markets of Algiers. They are an B 18 ALGERIA ANJ) TUNISIA. honest and industrious race, self-contented and very fond of singing and music. They are the happiest people in Algeria ; they give animation to every Arab fete, M'ith tlieir tambourines, drums, fiddles, and other queer-shaped instru- ments. Among their other accomplishments they practise a sort of fantastical sword dance. The Mozabites or M'zabi are a colony of seven towns spread over adjoining oases in the Sahara, 160 kilometres south of Laghouat, and 600 kilometres from Algiers, the district known as M'zab. This country contains about 200,000 date trees, and a population of about 25,000 ; it was annexed to France in 1882 {see also p. 140). The towns and oases are Ghardaia (the capital), Beni Isguen, El = Ateuf, Metlili, Berrian, and Querrara. The M'zabi are very industrious and prosperous, engaged in all kinds of connnerce, and those of them who come north into the Tell, trade as butchers, grocers, coal dealers, and bankers, and when they have acquired a competence return to their own country, to be replaced by other members of their famil3\ The Turks and Coulouglis are practically extinct as separate races. The Coulouglis are the offspring of Turkish fathers and Arab mothers, but since the French occupation of Algeria, the majority of the Turks have returned to Turkey, and the remainder with their families have been merged in the general population. COSTUMES. The original Arab costume is undoubtedly the costume of the Arab of the plain, for the costume of the town Arab has degenerated into a mixture of Turkish and Jewish accoutrement, which has no fixed characteristic. The Arab of the plain dresses in haicks and burnouses, and should he be wealthy, wears the most becoming and majestic costume on the surface of the earth. The dress consists first of all of a haick, or long strip of stiiped woollen gauze, whicli covers the white felt cap on his head and hangs flat at the back of his head, covering his shoulders and neck, and is fastened on to the belt or sash by a foulard of white or coloured silk material, which prevents the haick from falling COSTUMES. m to tlie ground The haick is kept on the head by a long «tring of twisted camel-hair of light or dark brown colour, which is I'olled round tlie felt cap some ten to twenty times ; only a little part of the haick is allowed to emerge on the forehead, just cnougli to shade tlie eyes. The weight of the ALGERIAN COSTUilES. l:)uruous and the Mohammedan chaplet keeps it firmly round the neck. On the body the Arabs wear a (javdoura, or gown of white woollen material striped with silk, and a wide coloured silk sash over it round the waist. Over this, they wear a white B 2 20 AI.GERIA AND TUNISIA. woollen burnous of vei-y fine texture, and over this burnous again, one or two more burnouses, according to tlie climate. The ricli Arabs wear as a top covering a light or dark plain cloth burnous, braided or embroidered with silk, and tassels of the same colour. The poorer classes wear a camel's cloth — either plain or striped — -burnous of such strong texture that one of these garments is supposed to last their lifetime. The cavaliers wear red -top leather boots, which they make use of as stockings, as this boot goes into a shoe, flat heeled, same as worn bv all the Arabs of Algeria. The Arab women are shrouded from liead to foot in wliite haicks and muslin materials, but this is only for out-of-door costume, the only sign of difference of rank being in the fineness of the stuff worn by the ladies, which covers them completely, only the eyes being allowed to be shown. At home this somewhat mythical garment is replaced by a much more gorgeous attire. The baggy trousers, drawn tight about the ankles, are replaced by the serroaal, or wide trousers of silk or China crepe, and reaching only mid-leg. The inmost garment is of finest gauze ; the feet are in slippers of velvet embroidered with gold ; the hair, plaited in long tresses, is knotted behind the head and descends almost to the ground ; the head-dress is a dainty little skull cap or Chechia of velvet, thick with gold and seed pearls, or entirely trimmed with gold coins ; it is attached by golden cords under the chin. The upper garment is the r/i'/a, or jacket, of brocaded silk, beneath which are one or more vests of gay colours, ornamented with innumerable sugar-loaf buttons. Round the waist is swathed the fouta, or manifold sash of striped silk. Add rings and earrings, often of dia- monds and emeralds very clumsily cut ; necklaces with side rows of fine peai'ls strung on common string, bracelets for the arms, called 7nesis, and bangles for the ankles, termed redei-fs, and the Mauresque " at home " costume is complete. The Town Arab wears the original Turkish costume of cloth, embroidered with gold or silk of the same colour. This consists of baggy trousers, vest, and coat, somewhat similar to the dress worn by the Zouaves. Where the costume has lost its originality is in tlie suiDpression of tlie luige white turbans and leggings as well as in the shape of tlie trousers, which lias lieen altered, and is now similar to tliosc worn formerly l)y the Jews. The Jews have taken of late years to wearing European dress, COSTUMES. 21 but tlioy are easily recognised, when wearing native garments, by their dark blue turban, blue stockings, and their long liair. The Jewish dress is somewhat unbecoming, and has lost much of its former character. Tlie Kabyles' dress consists of a piece of wliite muslin material fastened on a large round white felt cap, with a few yards of twisted camel-hair, and a (jandoura or dressing-gown of carpet-like material, whicli is of such resisting texture that they scarcely ever require to replace it by another. The Jewesses are often handsome, but the practice of slirouding the chin in a bandage of linen or muslin gives them the semblance of having a perpetual toothache. Their dress is one of the loveliest costumes worn in Algeria. It consists of a black silk handkerchief fringed with gold which is fastened on the head witJi gold and diamond pins and next a scarf, often of the most gorgeous materials. Their dresses are gowns of velvet, silk, or stiff brocade, or some- times cloth of gold or silver, having a stomacher, or breast- plate, entirely worked with heavy gold embroidery. This gown is pretty well uniform for all tlie classes of social standing. The richness of the material and the massive gold embroidery slightly differ, of course. But then the poorest of the poor Jewesses can always l)oast of a dress worth from £5 to £10, if not more. This gown is fastened round tlie waist by a sash of silk and gold. The wide sleeves are made of tulle or sprinkled gauze, and are held back on the shoulders. Under the gown, in winter, a caftan with sleeves is sometimes worn. These sleeves are very tightly buttoned, and are of the same material as the caftan: either velvet, gold Ijrocade, or embroidered silk. Another caftan is still worn under the first, a short one buttoning with two buttons, to keep up the figure. Take away the dash of Arabian Nightism, and tliey are the same Jewesses whom you may see on the high days and holidays taking their ease in European tight-fitting dresses on tlie Saint Eugene or Mustapha tramcars, with their red- lilijit'd, moist-eyed children round them. On gala days and l)ridal ceremonies, their drt'sses are of astonishing splendour ; a hea\y, bizarre, loaded kind of rich- ness, such as in old tapestry hangings representing the Queen of Sheba visiting Solomon, or P]sther coming down with Ahasuerus to confound Haman and release humble Mordecai. A real tableau vioant of the Ober-Ammergau Pass'on Play. 22 AI.GERIA AND TUNISIA. ARAB MARRIAGES. The position of the Arab woiu"u iu Algeria is theoretically much preferable to that of her sex iu Morocco or Turkey- The strictly equitable nature of the French rule forbids her being treated with harshness or sold into slavery ; but prac- tically she is not much better off' than in other Oriental countries. She is the victim of a stupid and brutalising social code, founded on and bound up in a religion whose theory is pure, but whose practice is barl^arous. >She is either contemned or maltreated ; a toy to the rich, a beast of burden to the poor. When a child is born to a Moorish woman, she considers it a blessing if a boy, and a curse if a daughter. Directly a girl comes into the world she is baptised in tlie name of Fathma, whicli is that of the motlier of the Prophet. A week afterwards another name is given to her. The choice of appellatives lies between Nicha, Bedra, Djohar, Halima, Hasuria, Khadidja, Klieira, Zina, Zora, Krenfla, Messoudia, Kamra, etc. If the Moorish girl's parents are poor, they will regard her only as an incubus. Her mother was probabl}' married at ten or tweh e years of age ; she ages early, and each accession of maternal cares is to her only a renewed warning that she is no longer fair to look upon. As for the father, it is as much as he knows that he has a daughter till some one buys her of him in marriage. The rich girl is neglected by her mother, and is relegated to a corner of the harem and the care of an old n egress. Wlien she is old enough to be married— i.e., sold — the kind of life described by Mr. George Gaskeli begins for her. Beyond these characteristics there is nothing else to add to the social position of the Moorish women ia Algiers. Their state of life is, no doubt, ver}' pitiable. The Government can do wry little to ameliorate it. They have guaranteed to the natives the possession of the civil law — which is the Koi-an — and the social code and the civil law are one. They might as well decree that the Arab woiuen should go un\eiled, or that the Arabs should leave off their burnouses, as interfei-e witli the domestic arrangements of the Moorish gyna^ceum. Mr. (ireorge Gaskeli thus describes in "Algeria As It Is" the Arab marriages : — As a rula, an Arab marries without having seen the face • ARM] MARlilAGES. 23 of his bride. No doubt some find out by accident whether it be pretty or ugly ; and they are occasionally favoured by strategem, for a girl conscious of her own attractions may contrive to make an imprudence of her adjar responsible for wliat was her own intention. If neither chance nor design befriend them, they must be satisfied with the information given b}' their parents, who are always allowed to see their future daughters-in-law. " Generally speaking, an Arab marries early. After ill- treating his wife a few years, he generally sends her adrift, and takes another, whose condition is no better than was that of the one repudiated. Divorce is very common, for it is known statistically tliat there are nearly as manj^ separations as tliere are marriages. Marriage, with Mussulmans, is rather more a civil than a religious ceremony, the couple being united in the presence of the cadi or mayor. Some of the more intelligent and less bigoted Arabs, who have observed how much better is the social position of the wife amongst the civilised classes of Europeans, have their daughters married according to the French law. A marriage tlius contracted is ever afterwards under the jurisdiction of France. If these examples were more frequent, the improved condition of Arab women would be the result. But as instructing the lower orders is the first step towards civilising them, nothing would so soon and so efiectually remedy the evil as compulsory education. "The Wives of Arab Chiefs, and of rich Arabs in general, if they enjoy immunity from labour, have even less liberty than their sisters in humble life. Tlie demon of ennui is ever present to these secluded ladies, who are taught to believe that it is a crime to allow their faces to be seen except by their husbands and nearest relations. The adjar, or veil, is not worn in the house ; but if a visitor calls, the female part of tlie family scampers oflT into the inner apartments. Their only occupation is to paint themselves, dress fine, look in the mirror, cover their persons with jewellerj^ and pass much time in the bath. Friday, the Arab Sunday, is almost the only I day in which a woman of quality leaves her dwelling. She * then, accompanied by her female attendants, goes to visit the cemetery, where, shrouded in a cloak of white drapery, many of them seen together look like phantoms w^andering about the tombstones." 24,' AT.(iERLV AND TUNISIA.' RAILWAYS. Seven railway companies are in operation in Algeria and Tunisia, as follows : — 1. The P. = L. = M.- of Algeria, from Algiers to Oran ; and from Philippeville to Constantine. 2. The East Algerian, from Algiers to Constantine ; Mener- ville to Tizi-Ouzou ; Bougie to Beni-Mansour ; El-Guerrah to Biskra ; Ouled-Rahmoun to Ai'n-Beida and Khenchela. 3. The West Algerian, from St. Barbe-du-Tlelat to Eas-el-Ma and Tlemcpu ; Oi'an to Ain-Temouchent ; Blidah to Ber- rouaghia. 4. The State Railway, from (Oran) Arzeu to Figuig and Colomb-Bechar ; Tizi to Mascara; Mostaganem to Tiaret ; Oran to Arzeii. 5. The B6ne = Quelma et Prolongements, from Bone to Kroubs ; Bone to Randon ; Bone and Souk-Ahras to Tebessa ; Bone to Tunis ; Pont de Trajan to Beja ; Tunis to Bizerta ; Tunis to La Goulette ; Tunis to Le Kef ; Tunis to Kalaat-es-Senam ; Tunis to Kalaa-Djerda ; Tunis to ISTabeul ; Tunis to Menzel-bou-Zelfa ; Tunis to Sousse ; Sousse to Kairouan ; Sousse to Moknine ; Tunis to Smindja and Zaghouan ; Tunis to La Laverie. 6. The Sfax to Gafsa Company ; Sfax to Gafsa and Metlaoui. 7. The Bone -Mokta~St.- Charles line, from Bone to Philippeville via St.-Charles. In addition to the above railways there are a number of towns served by light railways (C.F.R.A. Company, Chemins de Per sur Routes d'Algerie), such as Algiers to Rovigo ; Algiers to Colea and Castiglione ; El-Affroun to Marengo ; Dellys to the Camp du Marechal and Boghni. The seven lines of railway referred to above cover a mileage of 4,500 kilometres, or 2,800 miles. HOTELS. GmcmUij spntkiwj, llie hoteU in fhc large towns of Algeria and Tunisia, mch as Algiers, Oran, Constantine, Bougie, Bone, Biskra, Bizerta, Tunis, and Sousse, also those at Hammam E'irha and Ilammaiii. Meskoutine are good : hut in the smaller to urns and countni districts the acromiiiodation for European trareUers and the IIISTOTiY. 25 sanitary ((rniiii/<'iiii'ii/s leave mur/i fo lie ilesired. Ma.Hni< are, however, improving in this respect. Those hotels at which Tiios. Cook & Son's Coupons are accepted are iwlicalcd in the text referring to the respective places. HISTORY. The territory of Algiers includes tlie several divisions of ancient JSTumidia, both of the Massyli and of the Massresyli, tlie kingdoms oi Massinissa and his rival Syphax, and after- wards of Jugurtha. It also includes pai't of the Mauritanian kingdoms of Bocchus and of Juba. It was conquered successively by the Romans, the Vandals, the Byzantine Greeks, and lastly by the Arabs, who invaded North Africa at the beginning of the eighth century, and established Islamism. Ji'erdinand the Catholic, after driving the Moors from Spain, sent an expedition to Africa under Cardinal Ximenes and Don Pedro Navarro, which took possession, in 1509, of Oran and Marsa el Kebir, and of Bujeiah in the following year. To the general reader the most interesting part of the history of Algiers commences with the rule of the Tui'ks, and of the brothers Barbarossa, the famous pirates. The Moors of Algiers called in the aid of a Turkish corsair, named Horush, who, after vanquishing the Spaniards, claimed possession of Algiers itself, where he was killed, and succeeded by his brother Kheir-ed-Din, the more daring of the two. The country in 1519 became a province of Turkey, governed by a Pacha or Regent appointed by the Sultan. The first who filled tliis office was Kheir-ed-Din, the brother of Horush. He maimed a large fleet, with which he swept the Mediterranean, striking terror among the Christian sailors. Solyman I. called him to Constantinople, and raised him to the rank of Capudan Pacha, or Great Admiral. In 1518 the Sultan Solyman equipped an expedition for the conquest of Tunis. This was successfully accomplished by Kheir-ed-Din, who continued his piratical outrages against Spain and Italy, whicli caused the Emperor Charles V. to collect a fleet and army from every part of Europe, and in July, 1535, the expedition, composed of Spanish, German, Italian, Maltese, and Portuguese troops to the number of 30,000, set sail in 500 vessels from Cagliari and appeared before 26 ALGEIMA ANJ) TUNISIA. Goletta. Kheir-ed-Din made a desperate resistance, but Goletta was taken by assault, the Emperor's army marched on Tunis, defeated Kheir-ed-Din and liberated 10,000 Christian slaves. Mulai Hassan was placed on the throne as a vassal of Charles Y., who, after taking Bizerta and Bone, left for Europe. Kheir-ed-Din escaped to Constantinople, where he died. At Algiers there was no improvement. Mohammed Hassan Pacha, a Sardinian renegade, who succeeded Kheir-ed-Din, con- tinued to scour the sea and make incursions on the coast of 8pain. Consequently, in 1541, Charles Y. decided to attack Algiers. An army of 20,000 regular troops, 4,000 volunteers, and 2,000 horse sailed in October, 1541, contrary to the advice of Admiral Dorea on account of the advanced season of the year. A landing was effected near Algiers, where now stands the Jardin d'Essai, but INIohammed Hassan, although he only had about 6,000 troops, refused to surrender. The elements, however, came to his assistance — a violent storm ensued, the invading army, who had no tents, became frozen and wet, were charged furiously by the Moors and Tui'ks, and were obliged to re-embark in the greatest confusion, losing a third of their number and 140 ships. From that epoch the Algerines thought themselves in- vincible, and extended their piracies not only all over the Mediterranean, but also into the Atlantic. They seized the vessels of all nations who did not agree to pay them a tribute. Robert Blake in 1655 first taught the Algerines to respect the English flag by his bold and successful action at Tunis. Louis XI Y. caused Algiers to be bombarded in 1682 by Admiral Duquesne, which led to a peace in the following year between France and Algiers. The Spaniards, under General O'Reilly, landed near Algiers in 1775, but were obliged to re-embafk in haste and with loss. The Dutch, after several combivts with the Algerines, by paying a sum of money, obtained respect for their flag. So did likewise the Danes and Sv\'edes. Tlie Austrian and Russian flags were protected by the special interference of the Porte, in consequence of treaties with the latter. But the Italian States were the greatest suff'erers from the piracies of the Algerines and the other Barbary Powers, who not only seized their vessels and cargoes, but made slaves of all on })oard, who were either sold in the market, or sent, chained, to tlie public works. HISTORY. 27 In 1815 the Algerine Power was checked in its lawless exactions by the ships of the United States, which took an Algerine frigate and brig ; the E)ey was also compelled to conclude a treaty with the Americans, renounce all tribute, and pay them 60,000 dollars as compensation for the ships that had been plundered. In 1816 Lord Exmouth, with a British and Dutch squadron, in execution of the determina- tion taken by the Congress of Vienna, put an end to Christian slaver}^ by bombarding and destroying the forts, the fleet, and part of the city of Algiers, and bringing the Dey to terms on this and other subjects. A better state of things lasted for about eleven years, when an insult offered by Hussein Pacha, the last Dey, to the French Consul, in April, 1827, induced the French Government to send an expedition on a very large scale to take possession of Algiers. This was eff"ected in June, 1830, when an army of 34,000 men, commanded by General Bourmont and Admiral Duperre, landed at Sidi Ferrucli [sec, Y>- 97). Algiers capitulated to General Bourmont ; the Dey abdicated, and retired to Europe ; and the French took posses- sion of the town, of the fleet, and of the Treasury, where they found above ,£2,000,000 sterling in precious metals and stores. Before tracing the further proceedings of the French, it may be as well to remark, that the Turkish chief was known by the several titles of Dey (" Uncle "), Pacha, Eff"endi, and Baba (" Father") lie was elected by the bashia, or officers of the militia, assembled in dewaim, or rather by a faction of them, which also frequently shortened his reign by a violent death. Fcav sovereigns of Algiers for the last two centuries ■ have died a natural death. Any common janissary miglit aspire to the supreme rank. The Sultan formerly used to appoint the Pacha of Algiers, who was at the same time commander of the forces, and to send men and money for the service of the garrison ; but the Turkish militia obtained in the seventeenth century the right of choosing their own commander, and paying themselves out of the revenue of the regency. By the capitulation of July 4, 1830, the French became possessed " of the city of Algiers and the forts and harbours depending on it." No mention was made of the provinces or of the native tribes, over which the authority of the Dey was little else than nominal. It is from this circumstance that the French have lost so many men and so much money in extending their possessions of the country. The Moors in- habiting the towns of Algiers, Orau, and Bone became sub- 28 AT/iERTA AND TUNISIA. jects of France, but the Arabs and Kabyles of the open country followed their own tactics, and even the Turkish Bey;-! of provinces showed a disposition to join with the Arabs and Kabyles rather than with the invaders. A kind of guerilla wai-- fare ensued, which was carried on with varying intensity for about seventeen years, marked occasionally by inhuman atrocities on the part of the Arabs, and by proceedings little less creditable on the part of their more ci\ilised adversaries. The most formidable antagonist to the French generals was the celebrated Arab chief, Abd-el-Kader, the Bey of Mascara, who exhibited the most stubborn energy, coupled with great military skill, and inflicted very severe losses upon the in- A-aders of his country. It was not till December, 1847, when Abd-el-Kader, pressed and hemmed in on all sides, yielded himself a prisoner to General Lamoriciere, that the conquest of Algeria could be said to be effected, having cost an ex- penditure of blood and treasure which seemed then out of comparison with the worth of the colony to France. Abd-el- Kader was sent to France, and remained there until released by Napoleon in 1852. He went to Constantinople, and later on to Damascus, where he died. Even after the removal of the great Arab chief, numerous outbreaks of the natives occurred ; and to hold this country, Avith its native population of two millions, required as many European soldiers as were maintained in India by Great Britain. The force kept in Algeria has seldom been inferior to 60,000 men. The withdrawal of the French Army for liome service in 1870 was the signal for a general insurrection in 1871, which assumed such unexpected proportions and spread so rapidly throughout Algeria that it became necessary to reconquer almost the whole country. As soon, however, as the Franco- German war was over troops were sent from France, and by the end of August, 1871, the rising was effectually suppressed. Since 1871 several insurrections or, rather, revolts have taken place, notably the revolt of El-Hamri in 1876, and of the one in the Aures Mountains in 1879, headed by a Mara- bout, Moliamedbin-AbduUa, whicli was finally suppressed after a decisive battle at El- A rhmt, when the insurgents were o^•ercome and driven south, lar-ge numbers of tliem dying of fatigue and hunger in the Sahai-a. More serious was the revolt in 1881 of the tril)es of Tiaret, Frenna, Geryville, and Saida, south of Gran, led by liou- Aniaiua, a Marabout of tlie Oulad-Sidi Cheikh family. The rirsTORY. 29 fanatic and his followers were at first successful, and large numbers of Europeans were massacred, but later on General Negrier, with a column composed of Zouaves, Chasseurs d'Afrique, aiid Legionnaires, inflicted heavy losses on the tribes and drove them to the district of Gouraya, where the insurgents deserted Bou-Amama, and sued for peace. It 1882 the territory of Beni M'zab, south of El-Aghouat, 700 kiloms. from Algiers, a flourishing district, but the centre for insurrectionary tribes, was occupied by Geiieral de la Tour d'Auvergne, and annexed to Algeria. Since then advanced posts have been established in the Algerian Sahara, and in 1900 French troops took possession of In-Sala and of Igli. There are now signs of tranquility and prosperity every- where (except in Southern Oran in the south-west corner of Algeria, on the frontier of Morocco, see p. 194), and by the adoption of firm and judicious measures the prejudices of the natives have, to a great extent, been overcome. Algeria, in fact, has entered upon a fairly promising career of wealth and civilisation. It was removed from the control of the War i^Jinister and the Bioreccux Arabes, and a new organisation was established, comprising all the usual features of the French Civil Government. It is satisfactory to know, in spite of the hundreds of millions of francs which Algeria has cost France, that this nest of pirates and smugglers has been transformed into a really fine colony, with ports, fortifications, public buildings of all kinds, churches, schools, roads, railways, tele- graphs, villages, cities, abundance of cleared and fertile land, irrigation works, and mines. Dr. Bennet, in his "Winter and Spring on the Shores of the Mediterranean," speaks witli positive enthusiasm of the i;are with which the French have built churches and estab- lished schools wherever they have founded a colony or a military station : " The settlement of the French in Algeria, although cer- tainly undertaken and continued for political and military purposes, has also, in reality, a decided Christian character. It is the first grand inroad made on the headquarters of Mohammedan infidelity since the time of the Crusades. The gain is tlie gain of Christianity and civilisation, and all the Christian jiations of Europe ought to feel that they owe a deep debt of gratitude to France for what she has accom- plished in Algeria, and be willing to help her in her great enterprise." 1^ PART IT. ALGIERS. Routes to Algiers. The direct route from England to Algiers is through Paris and Marseilles, the journey from London ria Calais occup_ying about 22 hours by the Rapide trains, wliich, however, only carry first class passengers. From Marseilles to Algiers by the steamers of the Trans- atlantic Company the voyage occupies 26-28 hours (Monday, Wednesday and Saturday) or 30-32 hours (Thursday). B}^ the steamers of the Compagnie de Navigation Mixte (Touache), sailing exevy Tuesday and Thursday (32-36 hours) ; there is also another service of the Compagnie Mixte every Saturday from Cette at midniglit calling at Port Yendres, due at Algiers on Monday, 6 p.m. By the Societe de Transports Maritimes a Vapeur, Wednes- day and Saturday, 6 p.m., due Algiers Fridaj' and Monday, 6 a.m. {See also p. 51.) By the Prosper-Durand Line every Tuesday, noon, returning from Algiers on Saturdaj^s. Outward bound travellers will be saved much trouble by applying for information and procuring their tickets from Thos. Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, London, or from their brand 1 offices in London, Liverpool and Southampton, wliere also Circular Tickets can be obtained for travelling in Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco, etc. Distance from Liverpool by sea, 1,6S5 miles. From London, rail to Marseilles, and steamer to Algiers, 1,318 miles. From LondoH, by the P. & O. steamers or Orient-Pacific to Marseilles, thence by sea on the Compagnie Transatlantique; Navigation Mixte (Touaclie), or Society G^n^rale steamers. u« - ifoJoiV asL soibCI siio/ ■?r*r 9^ ,8qioO -"^r ab ROUTES TO ALGIERS. 31 From Liverpool the steamers of the Moss Steamship Co. occasioiially call at Algiers, the journey to that port occupying about seven days. The Papayanni Line steamers also call at Algiers at frequent intervals (about fortnightly). From Soufhaiiipfon (from October 1st, 1907) by the North (.lerman Llo3'd (China and Japan) steamers fortnightly. They also call at Alj^iers on the homeward voyages fortnightly. From Gibraltar by the Adria Line (three-weekly service) ; also by the Compagnie de Navigation Mixte to Oran (thence rail) fortnightly. From Barcelona there is a weekly service (Majorca SS. Co.) on Wednesdays, 6.30 p.m., arriving at Algiers Fridays about 7.0 a.m. From Xeu- York Algiers is reached by the large steamers of the Hamburg- American and North German Lloyd Com- panies, about fortnightly during the winter season. From Hamhanj, by the steamers of A. C. de Freitas and Co., twice a montli. From Antwerp by the German Levant SS. Co.'s steamers to Tunis (monthly), thence rail or sea (Transatlantic Co.). From Xaples, by Italiana Gen. Navigation Co.'s steamers to Tunis (weekh'), thence rail, or boat of the Transatlantique Company. Harbour. — A magnificent harbour, well sheltered, able to contain the biggest steamers — capable of holding the French Mediterranean fleet. Passengers from Marseilles by the Transatlantique Co. land by pontoon without the necessity of taking small boats. In the case of the Navigation Mixte or Societe Generale the traveller has sometimes to hire a small boat in order to land. Fare, 50 centimes per passenger, and 25 centimes each piece of baggage. Small boats are also necessary for all other steamers coming into port ; taritf as above. Cook's interpreter in uniform meets all the principal vessels. Passengers should telegraph to " Cook, Algiers," when thf boat is due to arrive before 7.0 a.m. or after 7.0 p.m. Customs. — Dutiable articles: Tea, coffee, sugar, salt meat, candles, silver goods, cigars, tobacco, spirits, beer, matches playing cards, di-ied fruits, furniture, soap, etc. ; also saddles (new or old), bicycles, tents, arms and ammunition. Passengers are advised to assist the Customs' officers iu the 32 ALGER I. \ AND TUN J Si A. discharge of tlieii- duty, as by so doing the work is greatly accelerated, with little annoyance. Keys of trunks should be produced willingly. Gunpowder is absolutely forbidden ; filled cartridges also. Empty cartridges can be brought in with percussion cap. Minister of War, Paris, can give permission for powder and cartridges, but this is seldom taken advantage of. Neither Harvey cartridges nor good English powder can be bought in Algiers. No good house for filling cartridges. Outfit. — Ordinary clothes, including a dress suit, are suitable for large towns such as Algiers, Tunis, Bone, but for travelling up-country or for shooting excursions comfortable riding-breeches, shooting-coats with plenty of pockets to button up, strong boots, gaiters or puttees, strong socks, warm under- clothing, a good waterproof and a pair of motor-goggles to protect the eyes against the sand, which is very disagreeable in the desert however light the wind, should be taken. European tents and materials for camping, if required, can be bought or hired in Algiers. Railways. — There are two main lines of railway — the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterranean, going towards Oran, and the East Algerian Railway, going towards Constantine. The same station is used for the departures of trains of both lines. One through train daily in each direction. Restaurant car. Breakfast, 4f. Dinner, 4"50f. — wine included. There is also a night train from Algiei's on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays — -i.e., the days of the arrival of the Transatlantique steamers from Marseilles. In the reverse direction, Mondays, "Wednes- days and Fridaj'^s. Baring the ivinter season the Sleeping Car Co. run a train from Oran to Tunis ind Algiers, Kroubs (for Constantine) and Duvivier (for Bone). This train leaves Oran Wednesday evening, arrives Algiers Thursday morning, leaAes Algiers on Thursday evening arrives Kroubs Friday morning, leaves Kroubs Friday morning, arrives Tunis Friday, 10.39 p.m. In the reverse direction the train leaves Tunis Wednesday morning, arrives Algiers Thursday morning, leaves in the evening, and ari'ives at Oran 6.56 a.m. Friday. Supple- ment, Oran to Algiers, 16f. ; Algiers to Constantiiie, 20f. Times and fares snhject to alteration. Places can be reserved in advance at Cook's Office, 3, Boulevard de la Republique. There is no restaurant or bufl'et at the station. Diligences. — AMiere practicable private conveyances are recommended in preference to the diligences as these very PUBLIC CARRIAGES. 33 often leave much to be desired on the score of comfort and sometimes of cleanliness, although matters are steadily improving in this direction. Money. — Algerian notes pass o?*?^ in Algeria, and travellers are advised to change any such notes for French notes or gold before leaving the country. Although not current in Tunisia, they are generally accepted at Hotels in payment of bills. French Currency. — Monetary Unit — the Frcmc of 100 Centivies. Bronze — 1 centime. s. d. „ 2 centimes. )> 5 ,) 10 ^ickel- Silver- )> 1) -25 ,. -50 1 franc 2 francs Gold- 5 ,, -10 „ 20 „ Oi 1 2i 4J 9i 1 7 4 8 16 The " Louis " or " Napoleon " NOTES are issued by the Bank of France for 50, 100, 500, and 1,000 francs, and are the same value as gold. The silver coins, anterior to 1863, excepting 5 franc pieces, are not current ; also all Papal coins and the 50 cent., 1 lire, and 2 lire coins of Italy. Cabs.— See Tariff below. For excursions or long drives it is well to make a bargain with the coachman beforehand. Tariff for Public Carriages (for 4 persons). Tariff fob the Double Coubse. From Algiers to destination and return, with liberty to stop on the way or at destination, on payment for waiting of 50 centimes per quarter of an hour. fr. cts. Alger-Ville (except the caserne d'0rl4ans, the Cartoucherie, the porte du Sahel and the Prison Civile, Bd. de la Yictoire. Casba, Municipal Infirmary), under 2 k. 500 m. Alger, Bd. de la Yictoire Alger, Caserne d'Orleans, 2 k. 700 m. 23' ... Cartoucherie, 2 k. 700 m. 23' Casba (Old) Cimetiere Europeen, 2 k: 300 m. 14' Cimetiere Israelite, 2 k. 800 m. 16' Infirmerie Municipale Portes du Sahel, 2 k. 900 m. 23' Prison Civile, 2 k. 200 m. 20' Tagarins (beyond the walls), 3 k. 600 m. 35' Abattoir (Mustapha), 3 k. 900 m. 25' 40 50 50 40 25 35 40 75 40 2 50 1 75 34 ALGERIA. AND TUNISIA. Agha (Bains, Carrefour, Gare, Moulin, rue de la Liberte by the rue Michelet), less than 2 k. 500 m. Arsenal de Mustapha (by both routes), 3 k. 700 m. 24' Bab-el-Oued (the whole suburb), I'Hopital du Dey (Salpetriere), 2 k. 500m Bainem (Forest), 10 k. 300 m. 1 h. 40' Bains Remains, 8 k. 800 m. 55' Ben-Aknoun (petit Lycee), 8 k. 800 m. 1 h. 25' Belcourt (cimetiere musulman), 4 k. 500 m. 80' ... Beni-Messous (Asile), 11 k. 400 m. 1 h. 45' Birkadera (Mairie), 10 k. 300 m. 1 h. 35' Birmandreis (Mairie), 7 k. 700 m. 1 h. 15' Bois de Boulogne, 5 k. 700 m. 50' ... Boulevard bon Accueil (viaduct), 2 k. 600 m. 23' Boulevard Bru (North end). 4 k. 600 m. 38' Boulevard Bru (middle, South end), 4 k. 300 m. 33' Boulevard Bnx (Birmandreis road), 5 k, 300 m. 42' Boulevard Bru Tramway Terminus Bouzarea (Mairie) by the El-Biar route or by the Carrieres, 10 k. 300 m. Ih. 45' Champ-de-Manoeuvres (station of the C. F. R. A.), 2 k. 800 m. 19' Champ-de-Manoeuvres (Groupe Scoiaire), 3 k. 2o' Cap Caxine (Phare, commune de Guyotville), 11 k. 900 m. Ih. 30' Chiiteau-Neuf (El-Biar), 6 k. 800 m. 1 h Cheniins des Cretes (Mustapha) Chemin Shakspeare (whole length), 5 k. 700 no. 50' Chemin Yusuf, Cartoucherie Mustapha, 3 k. 700 m. 27' Cheragas (Mairie), 13 k. 700 m. 1 h. 45' Cliraat de France ... ... ... ... Colonne Voirol, 5 k. 700 m. 50' Dely-Ibrahim (Mairie), 11 k. 400 m. 1 h. 45' Deux-Moulins (Commune de Saint-Eugone), 4 k. 500 m. 27' ... Drariah (Mairie), 14 k. 800 m. 2 h. 05' ... ' El-Achour (Mairie), 12 k. 500 m. Ih. 50' El-Biar (Mairie), 5 k. 200 m. 55' Prais Vallon (Cafe Maure) 4 k. 35' Fontaine Bleue (Pont). 3 k. 900 m. 30' Guyotville (Mairie), 15 k. 300 m. 1 h. 50' Hopital Civil (Mustapha), 2 k. 700 m. 18" Hussein-Dey (Mairie), (i k. 600 m. 42' Hussein Dey (Village St.-Jean) Hydra (Cafe) by the Colo7ine Voirol, 7 k. 58' Jardin d'Essai (route du Ruisseau), 5 k. 300 m. 31' Kouba (Mairie), 8 k. 300 m. 1 h. 15' Kouba (Vieux), 9 k. 700 m. 1 h. 25' Maison-Carree (Mairie), 11 k. 800 m. 1 h. 30' Mustapha (cimetiere curopeen), 4 k. 600 m. 35' Mustapha (by the boulevard Bru), 6 k. 48' Mustai)ha (by the chemin des Cretes) Mustapha-Superieur (Palace), 4 k. 30' Mustapha-Supdrieur (Church), 4 k. 35' fr. cts. 1 25 1 75 1 5 50 4 — 5 — 2 — n t 6 — 5 — 3 — 1 50 2 25 2 — 2 50 3 — 6 50 1 25 1 50 6 4 — 3 50 3 — 1 75 7 — 1 50 3 — 7 _ 2 — 8 7 — 3 50 2 50 2 7 50 1 50 3 — 3 50 4 — 2 25 5 — 5 60 6 — 3 — 2 75 3 20 2 — 2 — TRAMWAYS. Notre-Daraed'Afrique Nouvellc Franco Oasis cles Palmiers, 5 k. 100 m. 33' Ouled-Fayet (Mairie), 16 k. 2 h. 10' Petit Seminaire Plateau Sawliere (Mustapha), 2 k. 500 m. 17' Pointe Pescade, 6 k. 600 m. 45' Ruisseau (Mustapha), 6 k. 200 ra. 40' Saoula (Mairie), 10 k. 100 m. 1 h. 55' Saint-Eugene (Mairie), 2 k. 900 m. 17' Telemly (upper end of rues Daguerre and des Fontaines) Trappe (la) Monastery, 17 k. 800 m. 2 h. 35' Village d'Isly, 2 k. 500 m. 20' Railway Stations and Steamees. l^e Zone. — The rues d'Isly, Mogador, Eandon, Marengo, round the jardin Marengo, and all the lower town, 1 f. 2"^ Zone. — Upper town, and the faubourg Bab-el-Oued, If. 50c. For 5 persons the prices are increased by one-fourth, waiting excepted. Heavy packages are charged 50 centimes extra. Tariff by the Day and by the Hour. The day of 12 hours 20 francs. Half-day of 6 hours 11 P>y the hour , (Not applicable to Notre-Dame d'Afrique.) 35 fr. CtS.' . 3 50 . 3 — . 2 50 . 8 50 . 4 — . 1 50 . 3 50 o . 8 . . 1 50 . 1 75 . 10 — . 1 50 9 TRAMWAYS. Electric. — These form a splendid means of seeing Algiers and its environs in every direction, and at a very moderate cost. Cars leave the Place du Gouvernement for the Colonne Voirol every half-hour, from 6 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. Cars from the Hopital du Dey to the Station Sanitaire, or vice versd, every five minutes, from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. ; and every ten minutes from 5 a.m. to 6 a.m. and from 10 p.m. to 11.50 p.m. Cars for Mustapha Superieur, Boulevard Bru (for English Cemetery), leave Station Sanitaire every half-hour, from 6.15 a.m. to 7.15 p.m. Cars for El-Biar leave the Place du Gouvernement every half-hour from 6.5 a.m. to 6.5 p.m. I^ast departures, 7.5 p.m. and 8.5 p.m. For the Civil Prison every fifteen minutes, from 6.5 a.m. to 8.35 p.m. Last departure, 9 p.m. Steam. — Bone to La Calle, a distance of 88 kilometi'es. Three or four departures daily in each direction. Time on journey, about four hours. c 2 36 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. LIGHT RAILWAYS. Chemins de fer sur Routes d'Algerie (C.F.R.A.). Steam — Algiers, L'Arba, Rovigo (37 Kilometres). 6.25 a.m., 1.5 p.m., 5.25 p.m., and on Sunday, Wednesday and Friday, and fete days, 5.5 a.m. Return 5.50 a.m., 12.30 p.m. and 5.10 p.m., and on Sunday, Wednesday, Friday and fete days 9.4 a.m. Algiers to Colea and Castiglione, via Mazafran. Stations, Deux Moulins, Pointe Pescade, Bains RoMAiNS, Cap Caxine, Guyotville. — 4.59 a.m., 6.42 a.m., 8.59 a.m., 11.7 a.m., 12.59 p.m., 2.33 p.m., 3.51 p.m., 5.15 p.m., 6.42 p.m. Algiers and all stations to Guyotville, continuing to Zeralda, Mazafran and Colea or Castiglione. — 6.42 a.m., 12.59 p.m., 5.15 p.m. Algiers, Deux Moulins, Guyotville, Mazafran and Castiglione, 7.59 a.m. Extra trains Sundays and fete days. Ei=Affroun to Marengo (20 Kilometres). Leave Algiers (P.-L.-M.) 6.50 a.m., 12.41 p.m., 5.19 p.m. Leave El-Affroun 9.25 a.m., 3.45 p.m., 8.2 p.m. About one hour and a-quarter between El-Affroun and Marengo. Dellys to Boghni (68 Kilometres). Dellys, Camp du Marechal, Mirabeau, Boghni. — 4.34 a.m., 2.14 p.m. Returning 4.25 a.m. and 2.5 p.m. Electric — Place du Gouvernement to Maison Carree. Every twenty minutes from 4.45 a.m. to 8.45 p.m. Extra trains, 9.25 p.m., 10.5 p.m., and 11.5 p.m. Reverse direction from 4.51 a.m. to 9.51 p.m. ; extra trains, 10.31 p.m. and 11.1 p.m. Place du Gouvernement to Nouvel Ambert.— Every ten minutes from 4.45 a.m. to 8.25 p.m. ; extra trains, 8.45 p.m., 9.5 p.m., 9.25 p.m., 9.45 p.m., 10.5 p.m., 10.35 p.m., 11.5 p.m.; special train, midnight, from Square de la Republique, after the theatre. Reverse direction from 4.52 a.m. to 8.52 p.m. ; extra trains, 9.12 p.m., 9.32 p.m., 9.52 p.m., 10.12 p.m., 10.32 p.m., 10.52 p.m., and 11.22 p.m. LIGHT RAILWAYS. 37 Place du Gouvernement to Jardin d'Essai (Oasis des Palmiers.)— Every ten minutes from 4.45 a.m. to 9.25 p.m. ; extra trains, 9.45 p.m., 10.5 p.m., 10.35 p.m., and 11.5 p.m. Reverse direction from 5.2 a.m. to 10.2 p.m. ; extra trains, 10.22 p.m., 10.42 p.m., 11.2 p.m., and 11.32 p.m. Place du Gouvernement to Jardin d'Essai (Platanes). — Every ten minutes from 4.32 a.m. to 8.2 p.m. ; every twenty minutes from 8.22 p.m. to 11.22 p.m. Reverse direction every ten minutes from 4.35 a.m. to 8.25 p.m., every twenty minutes from 8.45 p.m. to 9.45 p.m., and from 10.10 p.m. to 11.30 p.m. Place du Gouvernement to Ruisseau Superieur. — Every twenty minutes from 4.42 a.m. to 8.22 p.m. ; extra trains, 6.32 a.m., 6.52 a.m., 7.12 a.m., and 11.12 a.m., 12.32 p.m., 12.52 p.m., 4.52 p.m., 5.12 p.m., 9.2 p.m., 9.42 p.m., 10.2 p.m., 10.22 p.m., 11.2 p.m., and 11.22 p.m. Reverse direction from 4.40 a.m. till 9 p.m. Extra trains, 7.10 a.m., 7.30 a.m., 7.50 a.m., and 11.50 a.m., 1.10 p.m., 1.30 p.m., 5.30 p.m., 5.50 p.m., 9.40 p.m., 10.25 p.m., and 11.5 p.m. ; special train at midniglit from the Square de la Republique after the theatre. Place du Gouvernement to St. Eugene (Deux Moulins). — About every ten minutes from 4.51 a.m. to 7.59 p.m. ; every thirty minutes from 8.30 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.; special train at midnight from the Square de la Republique after the theatre. Reverse direction from 5.34 a.m. to 8.34 p.m. Extra trains 5.0 a.m., 5.17 a.m., and every half-hour from 9.0 p.m. to 11.30 p.m. Place du Gouvernement to Kouba. — Every forty minutes from 5.2 a.m. to 7.2 p.m. Extra train at 10.2 p.m. Reverse direction every forty minutes from 5.22 a.m. to 8.2 p.m. Extra trains at 8.42 a.m. and 10.52 p.m. Place du Gouvernement to the Marabout.— Every five minutes from 5.32 a.m. to 8.2 p.m. Reverse direction from 5.29 a.m. to 7.59 p.m. Sundays and fete days on all lines extra trains, according to the requirements of the service. Correspondence between Le Ruisseau and Binnandreis, Birkadem and Saoula every two hours. Correspondence between Le Ruisseau and Kouba every hour. 38 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. GENERAL INFORMATION. Cook's Office. — 3, Boulevard de la Republique. Post Office. — The General (Poste Eestante) is situated in tlie Boulevard Carnot at the corner of the Kue Strasbourg. Branch Post Office in the Palais Consulaire, on the Boulevard de France. All ordinary Post Office business, telegrams, registered letters, change of address, are transacted at both these places. There is also a Branch at Mustapha Palace, and one at Mustapha Inferieur. Parcels (per Parcels Post) are not accepted at the Post Office, but must be sent by one of the Shipping Companies — the Transatlantique, Navigation Mixte (Touachej, and Societe Generale de Transports Maritimes. Average time required for parcels from London to Algiers, or vice ver^d, is about three weeks. Mails. — The fast mail for Europe is that on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. To ensure departure, letters, etc., should be posted before 11.45 a.m. at the General Post Office. It is desirable, however, to post letters as soon as possible, irrespective of stated times of mails, as advantage is taken of the next boat leaving for despatch of mails at odd times. Letters can be posted on the ship itself if necessary. No fixed day for New York, China, or Australian letters. Cycling. — There is a very good track at the Velodrome, Mustapha Inferieur, near the Champ-de-Manoeuvres. Repairs to cycles can be done by M. Gerin or Paul Mayeur, both in the Rue de la Liberte. Automobiiism. — "Within the last few years this form of locomotion has increased greatly. The two principal houses for repairs, sale, liire of these machines are Mayeur, and Gerin, in the Rue de la Liberte. Several huge new garages have sprung up and deserve mention, two in the Rue d'Isly, and one in the Rue de Constantine, etc. Various automobile excursions from Algiers (occupying from one to eight days), visiting Blidah, Gorges de la Chiffa, Hammam R'irha, Tipaza, Cherchell, Tizi Ouzou, Michelet (Kal)ylia), Fort National, Bougie, Gorges du Chabet, Setif, Kerrata, etc., have been arranged by Tiios. Cook & Son, and particulars can be obtained from tlieir office, 3, Boulevard de la Republique. I^ 1 1 n GENIAL INFORMATION. 39 t ^Libraries. — English Circulating, near the English Church ""J at Mustapha ; Bibliotheque Nationale (French), Rue de ^ I'Etat Major, open daily 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. ; University Library, 3 in the Ecole Superieure des Lettres, Rue Michelet. ^ The English Cottage Hospital, with an Infectious 5 Ward, is situated at Mustapha Superieur (Rue Michelet) in ^the premises occupied by the late Gardner Home. Treasurer, !ORev. E. Arkwright, Telemly, Mustapha. J Sights. — The following are among the most important : ^ Mosque Djema el Djedid, Place du Gouvernement ; Mosque « Djema el Kebir, Rue de la Marine ; Mosque Sidi Abder- jfrahman, Jardin Marengo ; Cathedral St. Philippe, Place ^Malakoff; Cliurch Notre Dame d'Afrique ; Jardin d'Essai ^^^ (tramway), Mustapha Inferieur ; Governor's Winter Palace, rPlace Malakoff; Governor's Summer Palace, Rue Michelet, J Mustapha Superieur ; Admiralty, on the Quay ; Archbishop's Palace, Place Malakoff; Museum, Rue Michelet, Mustapha ■ Superieur (corner of Chemin du Telemly). The Arab Quarters of Algiers, including the Casbah, are well worthy of at least one day being entirely devoted to them. A guide is necessary, and can be obtained at the office of Thos. Cook & Son, 3, Boulevai-d de la Republique. Qovernor's Palaces. — These can be visited at any time, on presentation of card, when the Governor-General is away. The winter palace is situated in the town, next to the cathedral. The summer palace at Mustapha Superieur. Public Baths. — Bains Michelet, Rue Michelet, on the road to Mustapha ; Bains du Hamma, Rue du Hamma, next to the Theatre; Bains Parisiens, 36, Rue Bab-el-Oued ; Bains du Palmier, 6, Rue Arago. Moorish Bath (Bain Maure), in the Arab quarter, 2, Rue de I'Etat Major. From midday till 5 p.m. for women ; from 5 a.m. till midday for men. This is not a Turkish bath, properly so called, and is conducted by Arabs. Sea = bathing can bo had both at Algiers and Mustapha. Boats. — Rowing boats, about 2 francs per liour. Sailing boats, about 3 francs per hour. Arrangements can be made at Tiios. Cook & Son's office, 3, Boulevard de la Republique. Fishing. — Including lines, bait, at 3 francs per hour. 40 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. BANKS, CHURCHES, CONSULATES, Etc. Banks. — Thos. Cook & Son, Bankers, Army Agents, Money-changers, 3, Boulevard de la Republique. La Banque d'Algerie, Credit Lyonnais, Credit Foncier et Agricole de I'Algerie, Compagnie Algerienne, Credit Agricole et Commercial Algerien. Consulates. — British: F. Hay Newton, M.Y.O., Consul- General, 6, Boulevard Sadi-Carnot; L. G. C. Graham, Vice- Consul. United States : James Johnston, Consul, 64, Rue d'Isly ; Vice- and Deputy-Consul, L. L. Legembre ; Deputy-Consul, T. M. MacGeagh. Germany : Baron von Tischendorff, 43, Rue Michelet, Mustapha. Italy : P. Baroli, 9, Rue de Strasbourg. Portugal : F. M. Burke, 2, Boulevard Sadi-Carnot. Spain: Mr. Marinas, Consul-General, 31, Rue des Consuls. English Churches. ^ — Church of England, Place d'Isly, but being rebuilt at Mustapha Superieur. Presbyterian Church, Rue Michelet, Mustapha Superieur. Scottish Church, Rue Naudot. {See also p. 75). Seaman's Reading Room, Rampe Magenta. English Physician. — -A. S. Gubb, M.D., Club Buildings, Mustapha Superieur (October to April). Dentists. — F. Sintes, 4, Boulevard de la Republique ; Decrequy, 1, Rue Littre. English Chemist. — Licht, Station Sanitaire (close to Mustapha). Forwarding Agents. — Tiios. Cook & Son, 3, Boulevard de la Republique. House and Estate Agents. — N. C. Macpherson, 27, Rue d'Isly. Lloyd's Agents. — Burke & Delacroix, 2, Boulevard Sadi- Carnot. POSTAL RATES. 41 POSTAL, TELEGRAM, AND TELEPHONE RATES. Postage on ordinary letters to Algeria, Tunisia, Corsica, and France, 10c. (Id.) per 15 grammes or fraction. To Europe and all countries in the Postal Union (except Italy, 20c.), 25c. (24d.) for tlie first 15 grammes, and 15c. for every 15 grammes afterwards (from October 1st, 1907). French postage stamps are used for Algeria, but Tunisia has its own local stamps. Post Cards to Algeria, Tunisia, Corsica, France, and countries in the Postal Union, 10c. (Id.). Picture post cards for France and certain other countries (not England) may be sent for 5c. if the words " Carte Postale " are struck out and not more than five complimentary words are written on the card. Letter Cards to Algeria, Tunisia, Corsica, and France, 15c. (l|d.) for 15 grammes; to other countries, 25c. (24d.). Cards or Circulars, containing printed matter only, such as Christmas Cards, Wedding Cards, or business announce- ments, in unfastened envelopes, 5c. for 50 grammes. Re§:istered Letter fee, 25c. all countries. Postal Orders, Algeria, Tunisia, Corsica, and France, 5c. up to lOf. ; 10c. for llf. to 20f. Post Office Orders, Algeria, Tunisia, Corsica, and France, 5c. per 5f. up to 20f. ; 25c. for 20f. to 50f. ; 50c., 50f. to lOOf., etc. Great Britain and Colonies, India, America, Canada, Japan, 10c. per lOf. or fraction. Telegraph Rates, between two offices in Algeria and Tunisia, or between Algeria and France, 5c. per word ; minimum charge, 50c. To Great Britain, Belgium, Switzer- land, and Germany, 25c. ; New York If. 25c. or If. 45c.; Italy, Holland, Spain, 30c. ; Luxembourg, 20c. ; Denmark, 35c. ; Gibraltar, 30c. ; Malta, 35c. ; Bosnia, Bulgaria, 40c. ; Norway, 45c. ; Russia in Europe, 50c. ; Tripoli, 70c. ; Greece, 65c. ; Canary Islands, 90c. — all per word. Telegrams can be sent cheaply by marking the address London- — Calais (or what- ever the address and route may be) " Poste Recommandee." Sucli telegrams are sent at the rate of 5c. per word to the frontier, and thence as registered letters. Telephone Service, in Algiers and radius of 25 kilometres, three minutes conversation, 15c. ; and 40c. outside the above limit. Telephone message to non-subscriber, 50c. not exceeding three minutes. 42 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. Telephone Cabins are placed in the post and telegraph offices of the following localities : — Palais Consulaire, Mustapha, Mustapha Palace, Bab-el-Oued, Alger-Port, Hussein Dey, Maison Carree, St. Eugene, Birkadem, Kouba, Eouiba, Ber- mandreis, Sidi-Moussa, Blidah, Boufarik^ Bir Touta, Mouzaia- villC; Arba, etc. There are several classes of annual subscriptions, the one in general use for business firms being fixed at 200f. (about £8), TRAM RIDES AND WALKS IN ALGIERS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 1. Take electric tram from Place du Gouvernement for Colonne Voirol ; on arrival at terminus take first turning to right, and half-an-hour's walk brings one to El-Biar, where tram (electric) can again be taken for Algiers. Time, 2^ hours. 2. Take electric tram from Place du Gouvernement for El-Biar and Chateau Neuf (good view on reaching top of town) ; take turning to the right and walk to Bouzarea ; thence turn to the left to Forest of Bainem and down to the shore near Cap Caxine, whence tram for Algiers. Time, 6 hours. 3. Take electric car from Station Sanitaire to end of Boulevard Bru, walk on till road branches ; take path to left leading through the wood downhill to Jardin d'Essai, wlience tram to Algiers. o^ Time, 34 hours. 4. Take electric tram to Colonne Voirol from Place du Gouvernement. Continue straight on after leaving tram on upper road to Birmandreis, go through village, and take foot- path beyond the square on right-hand side of road. Footpath leadri to Arab Cemetery and Marabout of Sidi Yahid, and about one mile to another main road. Turn to right on reach- ing this road and walk on till Colonne Voirol is reached, whence tram for Algiers. Time, 4i liours. 43 44 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. 5. Start from Place du Gouvernement, through Rue du Divan to Rue de la Lyre, thence to Marche de la Lyre, thence by Rue Rovigo and Rue St. Augustin to Chemin du Telemly. Continue on this road till the Hotel Continental is i*eached, then strike immediately to the right up a narrow path which comes out at El-Biar, then make for Colonne Voirol, thence vid Mustapha Superieur and Rue Michelet to town. Time, 5 hours. CARRIAGE TOURS AND EXCURSIONS IN ALGERIA. Arranged by THOS. COOK & SON, 3, Boulevard de la Republique. The following Carriage Tours and Excursions embrace the most picturesque and interesting points that can conveniently be visited in a short time. Varied as are the tours suggested, other and longer itineraries will be arranged by their agent to meet the wishes of travellers. The fares for the undermentioned tours vary in accordance with the number of persons forming the party travelling together, and will be quoted on application at any of their offices. From Algiers. Brakes leave Tiios. Cook & Son's office as above every Monday (for Sidi Ferruch and La Trappe), Wednesday (for Blidah and the Gorges de la Chiffa) and Friday (for Ain-Taya and Cape Matifou) at inclusive fares, each excursion occup3dng a whole day. Afternoon drives may also be arranged on any day, for parties of not less than six persons, to various points of interest in the neighbourhood ; also automobile excursions (1 to 8 days), see p. 38. Excursions to the Kabylia district, and camping tours and shooting expeditions in the Sahara organised. Terms on application. Fiom Batna. Tour I. — Batna to Timgad, 1 day, by carriage; visiting Lambessa on the way. At these two places very interest- ing Roman remains are to be seen, and are well worthy of a visit. The excavations are still progressing, and arclueologists consider these ruins to be quite as interest- ing as those at Pompeii. CARRIAGE TOURS AND EXCURSIONS. 45 Tour 2. — Batna to Lambessa, half -day. If the traveller has not tlie time to visit Timgad, Lambessa is well worth a visit. The excursion can be done in two hours from Batna. Tour 3. — Batna to Cedar Forests, half-day. These are situate in the Djebel Tougourt, the mountain to the north-west of Batna. From Biskra. Tour I. — -Biskra, Sidi Okba, and back to Biskra, by carriage; 1 day. This interesting excursion to the oasis, mosque, and shrine can be done comfortably in 1 day in a car- riage, and ladies can undertake it. Tour a. — Biskra, Tougourt, and back to Biskra, 9 or 10 days' tour; by carriage, horse, mule or camel; 223 kilometres, 139 miles {see p. 242). A visit to Temassin, the holy city, can be decided on at Tougourt. Temassin is one of the most beautiful oases of the desert. This trip will take 1 day more. Tour 3. — Biskra, Tougourt, El Oued, Souf, and back, via Lakes to Biskra, 12 days' tour ; by carriage, horse, mule, or camel. The exact itinerary of this tour cannot be given, as, accoi'ding to the state of the weather and roads, one or another route may have to be taken. Tour 4.— Biskra, Tougourt, Ouargla, the M'Zab district, and back to Biskra, 25-30 days' tour ; by carriage. Itinerary indefinite for same reason as No. 3. Tour 5. — Biskra, Ziban, Tolga, El Amri, and back to Biskra, 3 days' tour ; by carriage or mule. I St Day. — Depart Biskra 7.0 a.m. Sleep at Tolga. 2nd Day. — Visit El Amri and return to Tolga. (Sleep.) 3rd Day. — Return to Biskra. Tour 6. — Biskra to Batna (single). Visiting Mount Aures, 4 days' tour ; by carriage. From Blidah. Tour I.— Blidah, Ruisseau des Singes, and back to Blidah, 1 day tour. 46 ALGERIA ATS^D TUNISIA. Tour 2. — Blidah, Tombeau de la Chretienne, and back to Blidali, 1 day tour. Interesting country and pretty scenery. The " Tombeau " is a monument of important historical interest. Tour 3. — Blidah to Tipaza, 1 or 2 days' tour. Tour 4. — Blidah to Cherchell and back. This excursion requires 2 days, but is not in the least fatiguing. Many and interesting Roman remains. Tour 5. — Blidah to Hammam R'irha. This is a pleasant and interesting drive to the Thermal Baths of Hammam R'irha, far more pleasant than by train. Can be accom- plished in 5 to 6 hours. Tour 6. — Blidah to Colea, Castiglione, Zeralda, Daouda. Tour 7. — Blidah to Bains de Rovigo and back, 1 day. Tour 8. — Blidah to Algiers, ^nd Colea or Boufarik, I day. Tour 9.— Blidah to El-Aghouat (or Laghouat) and back, 25 days. Tour 10. — Blidah to Medea, 1 or 2 days. From Bougie. Tour I. — Bougie to Setif (single) by landau or caleche, I or 2 days. Fine view of tlie Chabet Pass. Or the excursion may be taken in the reverse direction, from Setif to Bougie (see below). From Miliaria. Tour I. — Milianah to Teniet-el-Haad, 3 days. Tour 2. — Milianah to Hammam R'irha, or vice versa, 1 day. Tour 3. — Milianah to Adelia, or vice versa, 1 day. Tour 4. — Milianah to Affreville, or vice versa, 1 day. From Setif. Tour I. — Setif to Bougie (single), by laiulau or caleche, 1 or 2 days. For travellers coming from Constantine, the visit of the El-Chabet Pass must be made from this point when desiring to see Bougie at the same time, but the finer view is obtained when starting from Bougie (see above). CARRIAGE TOURS AND EXCURSIONS. 47 Tour 2. — Setif to Kerrata and l)ack ; by landau or caleche, 1 or 2 days. For travellers not having time to go to Bougie, and from thence over the Chabet Pass, same can be comfortably visited from Setif on the main line between Algiers and Constantine. From Teniet-el-Haad. Tour I. — Teniet-el-Haad to the Forest and back, half-day; by riding-horse (about 7 hours). From Tizi = Ouzou. Tour I. — Tizi-Ouzou to Mekla, Djema Saharidj, and back to Tizi-Ouzou, 1 day tour. These are villages absolutely in the interior of Kabylia, and composed entirely of natives. Pretty and interesting. Tour 2. — Tizi-Ouzou to Azazga and back, 1| days' tour. A very pretty and curiously situated village, easy excursion from Tizi-Ouzou. Tour 3. — Port Gueydon (Azeffoun) 1| days' tour. Kabyle village situated on the sea-coast, composed almost entirely of fishermen. Fair accommodation to be had ; clean. Roman Remains. Tour 4. — Tizi-Ouzou to Fort National and back, 1 or 2 days. Fort National is in tlie heart of Kabylia. Here may be seen the villages where earthenwax'e, pottery, and jewellery are manufactured. Here one gets an insight into real Kabylia life. The large market is held on Wednesdays. Tour 5. — Tizi-Ouzou to Michelet (Djurdjura), 1 day. Some of the gi-andest mountain scenery in the whole of Algeria. An excursion to be made comfortably in one day from Tizi-Ouzou, taking in Fort National. Tour 6. — Tizi-Ouzou to Maillot, or Tazmalt, 2 days. The grand pass of the Djurdjura. Sleep at Michelet. Maillot is the junction for Bougie on tlie East Algerian Railway. The Djurdjura Pass or Col de Tirourda is magnificent and vies with the Chabet Pass. 48 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. Tour 7. — Tizi-Ouzou to Mt. Belloua (Marabout) and back ; by mule, 2 hours. The Marabout is situated on the summit of a mountain, which is inliabited by Kabyles in their little mud huts. From Belloua are grand views of the whole of Kabylia, and on clear days Algiers may be distinctly seen. From Tlem^en. Tour I. — Tlemcen to Ain Fezza, or vice versd, 2 hours' journey. Tour 2. — Tlemgen to Ain Temouchent, 1 day, TWO SPECIMEN EXCURSIONS. (For others apply to THOS. COOK & SONS, Algiers.) I. 1st Day. — Leave Algiers early morning by rail for Tizi- Ouzou. Grand Hotel. In afternoon take mule drive to Sidi Belloua. 2nd Day. — Leave Tizi-Ouzou by private carriage about 8.0 a.m. Arrive Fort National 12.30 p.m. (Hotel des Touristes) lunch, and continue drive to Michelet. Sleep at Hotel des Touristes, Michelet. 3rd Day. — Make short excursion towards the Col de Tirourda and back before luncheon. In afternoon return to Fort National, sleep at Hotel des Touristes. 4th Day. — Drive to Azazga (Hotel Gebhard), lunching at Freha (or leave Fort National after lunch direct for Azazga). 5th Day. — Drive to El K'seur (on the line from Beni Man- sour to Bougie), lunching at Taourirt-Ighil (Hotel Lambert), thence train to Bougie. Hotel de France. 6th Day. — Rest in Bougie. 7th Day. — Private carriage to Kerrata, through the famous Gorges du Chabet-el-Akhra. Hotel du Cliabet. 8th Day. — Continue to Setif by carriage. H6tel de France. 9th Day. — Leave Setif by rail for Algiers. The above excursion iuchules the principal districts of Kabylia. CARRIAGE TOURS AND EXCURSIONS. 49 II. ist Day. — Leave Algiers by train for Tizi-Ouzou. Lunch at Grand Hotel. In afternoon drive to Michelet (H6tel des Touristes) via Fort National. 2nd Day. — Leave Michelet for short excursion towards the Col de Tirourda and back to luncli. In afternoon drive back to Fort National (Hotel des Touristes). 3rd Day. — Leave Fort National by carriage for Azazga (lunching at Freha). Hotel Gebhard, sleep. 4th Day. — Leave Azazga very early, passing by way of tlie Forest of Yakouren for El K'seur (lunching at Taourirt- Ighil, Hotel Lambert) in time to catch the train for Bougie. Hotel de France. 5th Day. — Rest in Bougie. Excursion to Cap Carbon, or other carriage drive. 6th Day. — Leave early by carriage rid the beautiful Gorges du Chabet-el-Akhra for Kerrata. Hotel du Chabet. 7th Day. — Leave early by carriage for Setif, lunch at Amoucha, and take the last train (about 4.21 p.m.) for El Guerrah. Hotel Guerrah. 8th Day. — Leave by train for Biskra (lunching at Batna). Royal Hotel, Hotel Victoria or Palace Hotel. 9th Day. — Rest in Biskra. In afternoon take drive to Clietma Oasis. loth Day. — Day's excursion to Sidi Okba and back. Ilth Day. — Drive to the Dunes during tlie morning. In afternoon take tram drive to the Hot Springs. 12th Day. — Drive to Old Biskra, visit the Jardin Landon and its charming grounds. 13th Day. — Leave for Batna. Hotel des Etrangers et Continental. 50 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. 14th Day. — Leave about 8.0 a.m. by carriage or motor-car for Timgad (lunch), vid Lambessa, and return. 15th Day. — Leave Batna for Constantine. Grand Hotel, Hotel St. Georges, or Hotel de Paris. 1 6th Day.— In Constantine. Visit the Gorges du Rummel, Chemin des Touristes, etc. 17th Day. — Leave Constantine early in morning. Lunch at Guelma. Change trains at Duvivier (restaurant-car). Customs at Ghrardimaou. Arrive Tunis about 10.39 p.m. Tunisia Palace Hotel, Grand Hotel, Hotel de Paris, Hotel de France. Passengers may break the journe}^ at Hammam-Meskoutine (between Constantine and Guelma), and stay there the night. 1 8th Day. — In Tunis. Visit the Souks and Arab quarters of the to^vn, the Casbah, Dar-el-Bey, etc. (Hotel supplies guide.) Drive to the Belvedere. 19th Day. — Excursion to Cax'thage. 20th Day. — -Rest in Tunis. Carriage drive to the Bardo. The above is for a three weeks' Tour, Algeria to Tunis. Other Tours for a shorter or longer time can be easily arranged on application. COOK'S CONDUCTED TOURS TO ALGERIA AND TUNISIA, Leaving London at intervals during the Season. Including Paris, Marseilles, Tunis, Carthage, Kairouan, Hammam-Meskoutine, Constantine, Biskra, Sidi Okba, Batna, the ruins of Timgad and Lambessa, Setif, Keri'ata, Gorges du Chabet, I5ougie, excursion by carriage through the Kabylia dis- trict, Azazga, Fort National, Tizi-Ouzou, Algiers, etc. Thirty- one days' tour. First-class tlivoughout, including first-class travelling tickets, hottd acconnuodation, carriage drives and excursions, conveyance between stations and hotels, fees to liotels and railway servants, (^tc, and tlie services of a competent conductor. ALGIERS. 51 SHORT SEA ROUTE. Compagnie Transatlantique. Mail Service between Algiers and Marseilles, and vice versd. Marseilles to Algiers. — Departures every Monday, Wed- nesday, Thursday (slower service), and Saturday, at 1 p.m. Arriving at Algiers ne:^t day, between 3 and 5 p.m. ; Thurs- day's boat arrives on Friday about 8 p.m. Algiers to Marseilles.— Departures from Algiers every Monday at 3.30 p.m., and every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 12.30 p.m. Arriving at Marseilles between 2.30 p.m. and 4.30 p.m. next day ; Monday's boat next day at about 10.30 p.m. Compagnie de Navigation Mixte (Touache). Marseilles to Algiers (Rapide). — Departure every Tuesday and Thursday at 6 p.m. Arriving at Algiers on Thursday about 6 a.m., and Friday about midnight. Algiers to Marseilles. — Departure every Friday and Sunday at noon. Arriving at Marseilles, Satui'day about midnight, and Monday about 8 p.m. There is also a weekly departure from Cette, calling at Port Vendres, as follows : From Cette, Saturday midnight, due at Algiers, Monday about 6 p.m. ; from Algiers noon Wednesday, via Port Vendres, due at Cette Thursday night. Societe de Transports Maritimes a Vapeur. Marseilles to Algiers. — Departure AVednesday and Saturday 6 p.m. Arrive Friday ancl Monday about 6 a.m. Algiers to Marseilles. — Dej^arture Wednesday and Saturday 6 p.m. Arrive Friday and Monday about 6 a.m. Time tables subject to alteration. D 2 52 ALGERIA AND TUNISIA. ALGIERS. '•' Mon enfant c'est Alger ! C'est la terre promise Dont je t'appris petite a begayer le uom ! Son image qu'au fond du coeur je t'avais mise Etait-ce la chimt're au poete pcrmise Et t'avais-je trompee? Elle repondit : -Non ! Get hiver enchanteur, cette Cite prospere, Ces verts coteaux, ces fleurs, cet aziir. les voici ! La douce voix d'en haut qui veut q,ue Ton espere Je I'entends dans mon ccEur . . . . Tu disais vrai mon pere, Et s'il est quelque part, le bonheur est ici ! " Mabie Lefebvre. Algiers (in Arabic El Djezair), is the ancient Icosium of the Romans, now the capital city of Algeria. It is situated in 36" 49' N. latitude by 3° 35' longitude E. of Green^^dch. It was first built by Yousuf Zeri, about 935. This Yousuf Zeri was an Arabian chief of the Zerite dynasty, which succeeded that of Agheb in the sovereignty of the country. Algiers has the shape of an irregular triangle, of which one side is formed by the sea coast, and tlie other two run up a steep hill, which faces the north and the north-east. The houses rise gradually, one above the other, on the declivity of this hill, so that there is scarcely one that has not a view of the sea from its terrace. The Town is divided into two distinct quarters — the old and the modern town. The Native Quarter, or the old town, is chiefly popu- lated with Arabs and Jews. It extends from the streets which form the basis of modern Algiers up to the Casbah, the old palace of the Deys of Algiers. The streets are very narrow and irregular, and the houses are so near to each other from one side to the other of tlie street, that it is some- times hardly wide enough for a person to pass tlirough. The houses are nearly all painted white or pale blue, and very closely resemble eacli other, the only apparent distinc- tion being the carvings of the street