/ 
 
REPORT 
 
 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE 
 
 A^ L ^ B K ^ , 
 
 18 8 3 
 
 FREDERICK SCH^VATKA, 
 
 1st Lieut., :?d Regt. Cavalry, U. S. Army. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 WASniNGT(3N: 
 
 GOVERNMENT PRINTING- OFFICE. 
 
 1885. . 
 

 EARTH 
 
 SClEMCiLi 
 • LIBRARY 
 
 GEOGRAPHY DEFT, 
 
48th Congress, \ SENATE. ( Ex. Doo. 
 
 2d Session. ) ) No. 2. 
 
 LETTER 
 
 FROM 
 
 THE SECRETARY OF WAR, 
 
 TRANSMITTING, 
 
 hi answer to Senate resolution of April 18, 1884, the official report of Lieu- 
 tenant SchicatJca of his military reconnaissance of 1883 in AlasJca. 
 
 December 3, 1884. — Referred to the Committee on Printing, and ordered to be printed. 
 
 War Department, 
 Washington City, December 1, 1884. 
 The Secretarj^ of War has the honor to transmit to the United States 
 Senate a copy of the official report of Lieut. Frederick Schwatka, Third 
 Cavalry, of his military reconnaissance of 1883, from Chilkoot Inlet, 
 Alaska, to Fort Selkirk, on Yukon River, Alaska, in compliance with 
 the resolution of the Senate of April 18, 1884, as follows: 
 
 Besolved, That the Secretary of War be, and he is hereby, directed to transmit to 
 the Senate the oflBcial report by Lieut. Frederick Schwatka, United States Army, of 
 his military reconnaissance of 1883, from Chilkoot Inlet, Alaska, to Fort Selkirk, on 
 Yukon River, Alaska. 
 
 Accompanying are two letters of the Adjutant-General of the Army, 
 
 dated, respectively, April 22 and November 4, 1884, from the latter of 
 
 which it will be observed that the delay in preparing a complete copy 
 
 of the report of Lieutenant Schwatka was occasioned by the necessity 
 
 of procuring copies of the photographic illustrations accompanying the 
 
 report. 
 
 ROBERT T. LINCOLN, 
 
 Secretary of War. 
 The President pro tempore 
 
 United States Senate. 
 
 War Department, 
 Adjutant-General's Office, 
 
 Washington, April 22, 1884. 
 Sir : Referring to the Senate resolution of April 18, 1884, calling for 
 a copy of the report of Lieutenant Schwatka's reconnaissance from Chil- 
 
 991439 
 
2 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 koot Inlet to Fort Selkirk, Alaska, made in 1883, I have the honor to 
 state that the report in question not having been received at this office 
 a telejjram was addressed to the commanding general Departnient of 
 the Columbia calling for it. 
 A reply has just been received from that office, which reads as follows: 
 
 Sclnviitka's ri-port not yet reiulercd. Will be in day or two. Very volnuiinousJ 
 tbroo luiudri'd jtafios nianu8Ciii)t; reciuircs several days to coj)y. 
 
 The copy desired by the Senate will be prepared and submitted as 
 
 soon as the report reaches this office. 
 
 I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 R. C. DRUM, 
 
 Adjutant- General. 
 The Hon. Secretary of War. 
 
 War Department, 
 Adjutant-General's Office, 
 
 Washington, November 4, 1884. 
 Sir: Referring to my communication of April 22, 1884, on the sub- 
 ject, I have the honor to inclose herewith a copy of the official report 
 by First Lieut. Frederick Schwatka, Third Cavalry, of his military re- 
 connaissance of 1883, from Chilkoot Inlet, Alaska, to Fort Selkirk, on 
 Yukon River, Alaska, called for by Senate resolution of April 18, 1884. 
 The delay in furnishing a complete copy was caused by the necessity 
 to i)rocure co{)ies of the photographic illustrations accompanying Lieu- 
 tenant Schwatka's report, which were recently obtained by the com- 
 manding general Department of the Columbia. 
 I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 R. C. DRUM, 
 
 Adjutant- General. 
 The Hon. Secretary of War. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 Brig. Geu. Kelson A. Miles, 
 
 Brevet Major- General United /States Army, 
 
 Commanding Department of the Columbia, 
 
 Vancouver Barracl's, Washington Territory : 
 Sir : I have the honor to report that, iu obedieuce to letter of instruc- 
 tions from your oflfice dated April 7, 1883 (and herewith appended and 
 marked A), I left Vancouver Barracks, Washington Territory, with a 
 party of seven persons, all told, the following being its organization : 
 
 1. Frederick Schwatka, first lieutenant Third Cavalry, aid-de-camp 
 to department commander, commanding. 
 
 2. George F. Wilson, assistant surgeon United States Army, sur- 
 geon. 
 
 3. Charles A. Homan, topographical assistant United States Army, 
 topographer. 
 
 4. Sergeant Charles Gloster, ComjDany K, First Cavalry. 
 
 5. Corporal William H. Shirclilf, Company G, Second Infantry. 
 
 6. Private John Roth, Company I, Twentj^-flrst Infantry. 
 
 7. J. B. Mcintosh, citizen. 
 
 This party, styled the " Alaska Military Eeconnaissance of 1883," left 
 Portland, Oregon, May 22, 1883, on the Pacific Coast Steamship Com- 
 pany's collier and freight steamer " Victoria" for Alaska, touching en 
 route at Astoria, Oregon; Neah Bay, Washington Territory; Victoria, 
 Vancouver Island, British Columbia, and Port Townsend, Puget Sound, 
 Washington Territory. 
 
 The "Victoria" crossed Dixon Entrance, the channel that separates 
 British Columbia from Alaska Territory, early on the morning of the 
 29th of May, and shortly afterward entered Boca de Quadra Inlet, 
 where freight was left for the Cape Fox Salmon Cannery, an enterprise 
 just started this year. This cannery is in the Indian country of the 
 Tongas and (Cape) Foxes. These bands are described under the title 
 of " Native tribes visited." I have confined my report regarding the 
 Alaskan Indians strictly to those bands or sub-bands that my party has 
 visited in whole or in part, but having once opened the subject of any 
 particular tribe, I have collected and transcribed all the available in- 
 formation regarding them that I considered to be reliable. Further 
 than the " Native tribes visited " — the most important informatioii re- 
 quired of my military reconnaissance — I have made no division of my 
 
 3 . 
 
9 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE JN ALASKA. 
 
 1 do not boliovo, liowovcr, tliat tliere are over five or six villages of 
 this t'onstnic'fion and capacity in tbe whole archipelago. Where the 
 soil wonld allow it, some of tlie Thlinkit tribes have dug cellars under- 
 neath their cabins for storage i)nrpo.>-es, and also with an idea for de- 
 fense. The moral eliect on the savage mind of a few shells would make 
 them uutenable. 
 
 The subject of the supersitions of a savage race in its bearing upon 
 military considerations of them has no importance except so far as their 
 medicinemen, or shamans (pronounced showman), as they are called in 
 Alaska, have i)ower to instigate, carry on, or i)revent war. In this 
 connection the shamans are discussed in each tribe described. 
 
 The Thlinkit transportation is one that varies but little with the dif- 
 ferent tribes, although noted in each. They have two distinct sizes of 
 canoes, the large or war canoe, which may hold from twenty-five to 
 fifty or even seventy-five, and the smaller ones for personal use, holding 
 one or two individuals. The former, once very numerous, are slowly 
 becoming obsolete, or really degenerating into medium sizes used in 
 transporting household effects from one village to another as the fish- 
 eries change their location on which they are dependent. I annex a 
 good illustration of a war canoe taken from Lieutenant Wood's article 
 in the Century Magazine of July, 1882, "Among the Thlinkits of 
 Alaska." 
 
 i / 
 
 Tm:. 2. — Tliliiikct war cauoc. 
 
 1 believe that most of their boats are swifter than any that we could 
 bring against them, not i)ropelled by steam. They are as good masters 
 as we of the art of sailing wherever that mode can be adopted. If the 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 7 
 
 old military posts should be reoccupied or uew ones established, each 
 one should therefore be furnished with a steam launch swift enongh to 
 run down these canoes and large enough to carry a combating force 
 equal to any village that it may be called upon to assail within the 
 limits of its district. Tongas, Wrangel, and Sitka were the i^oints 
 within the Alexander Archipelago occupied bj" troops before it was or- 
 dered to be abandoned ; but so many new industries have developed 
 within that time, and other changes been made that vary their useful- 
 ness, that they should not be reoccupied or new posts established with- 
 out a critical examination by the proper officers for such duty. The 
 site personally selected at Killisnoo by the late Brevet Maj. Gen. Jef- 
 ferson C. Davis, U. S. Army, at one time commander of the Alaskan De- 
 partment, is well situated and constantly growing in importance. 
 
 The grasses of this country are in sufficient quantities to sustain the 
 limited number of animals that would be required at a military station 
 for police and post duty, and the fact that the character of the country 
 makes it imi^racticable to use mounted troops effectively, if at all, makes 
 the subject of small importance. Baled hay can be readily obtained 
 for winter forage. 
 
 Water supplies for j)osts are unexcelled in the numerous mountain 
 streams emanating directly from glaciers and snowbanks on the high 
 hill-tops, and nearly all of these can be dammed at altitudes that would 
 give ample reservoir for fire or sprinkling purposes or to conduct water 
 through a post by a system of pipes. Such methods have already been 
 used in the salmon canneries lately erected in this part of Alaska. 
 
 Wood is plentiful and fuel should be obtained as reasonable as at any 
 post in the department proper. Yellow cedar and Sitkan spruce, or 
 balsam fir, is in ample quantities for timber, and a portable saw-mill 
 would save considerable in the construction of a post in furnishing 
 rough lumber, which is expensive from the high rates of freight to this 
 part of the Territory. Coal has been found but not in proper quantity 
 or quality. 
 
 While the hardier varieties of vegetables can be grown here with a 
 little harder labor than in more temperate climates, I think that, in gen- 
 eral, post gardens will be found to be failures, the limited areas of fertile 
 soil, the ready access to Portland and Puget Sound markets, at much 
 cheaper rates, and the uncertainty of success in a garden from year to 
 year determining this. Such vegetables as can be grown here, and that 
 would be more or less injured in their freshness by long tri^nsportation, 
 would probably be raised in small gardens, while the standard varieties 
 as potatoes, onions, &c., usually issued to troops, would be supplied by 
 the proper department from the markets indicated, the ease with which 
 they can be reached making the matter of post gardens of little impor- 
 tance compared with the isolated frontier forts. 
 
 The beef or fresh meat sui)ply will be the hardest to meet, considering 
 the well-known craving in the American soldier for good warm-blooded 
 
8 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 meats. With a small steamer at the disposal of the military, as already 
 8u<i-^este<l, tlieiv will be Imt little trouble in sii[)plyin<;- this from Pii^-et 
 Sound niiiikcts at I'oit TowummmI rates, but in case this transportation 
 is done l>v pri\ ate lines the exi)ense for any number of troops will be 
 considerablo. Tiiere are very few i)la('«'s in this part of the Territory 
 where a herd of eattle eould be l<ei)t even in the summer b(^yond the 
 time that would be uecessary for them to pick up the flesh they had lost 
 in transportation, but meat once killed can be kept quite a while in 
 good condition with but very little trouble. Hogs will do better, and 
 will ])robably enter into the soldier's diet in a larger ration than at other 
 army posts. A bill of fare in this ])art of Alaska can be varied by clams, 
 mussels, herring, codfish, salmon, and halibut, in the way of cold-blooded 
 meats, the latter existing in large quantities; in fact nearly all sorts of 
 fish swarm in these waters, the principal industries being fisheries, and 
 likely to remain so until civil law is extended over the Territory so as to 
 protect lumbering and miniing interests, these three being the staple in- 
 dustries, i)resent and prospective, of Southeastern Alaska. Venison, 
 ■wild goat, mountain sheep, and black and brown bear's meat may be 
 bad occasionally. Ducks and geese are abundant in their season. 
 
 The general liealthfulness of this district will compare favorably with 
 any in the United States, onlj' such diseases as are produced or aggra- 
 vated by prolonged damp weather — the general climatic state of this 
 country — being worthy of notice in their causation or therapeutics. 
 
 As to the general warlike tendency of the Thlinkits it must be said 
 that they have been very peaceable since we have come into possession 
 of the country, with but a few^ excei)tions, although some of their bellig- 
 erent acts show that they can be very combative when that faculty is 
 aroused. The Kakes of Kuprinoff Island of the Alexander Archipelage, 
 as late as 1857, made a hostile excursion in their war canoes as far as 
 Puget Sound, and killed the collector of customs at Port Townseud. 
 The Chilkats, in 1851, made a descent of over 500 miles from their 
 country, across the mountains, down the Upper Yukon, with its lakes 
 and rai)i(ls, in order to burn a Hudson Bay post (Fort Selkirk) that was 
 interfering with their inland trade. Such acts do not belong to a very 
 cowardly race, and these acts could be extended beyond those cited. 
 The bold, rugged character of their country, the consequent severe exer- 
 cise necessary to procure skins for clothing in the past generations, and 
 the results still inherited more or less in the present, the large number 
 of petty tribes constantly jarring about mooted matters of savage poli- 
 tics, all go up to give them a sort of warlike morale, not to be expected 
 by the closest student of Indian character, who might superficially 
 reason from their fish-eating, easily subsisted, and i)resent indolent and 
 quiet existence. Like all Indians, however brave, they are mortally 
 afraid of cannon, Gatling guns, and any other large arms not used by 
 themselves, and a single well-directed shell would have more moral 
 eflect and less fatal results in bringing them to terms than a village full 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA 9 
 
 of corpses produced by weapons with which they are familiar and can 
 meet man for man, gun for gun. Tlie fact, already noted, that all their 
 villages and camps are near the edge of navigable waters makes this 
 statement of military importance in the consideration of these tribes. 
 
 The arms of these tribes are quite inferior in quality, but are grad- 
 ually improving as the country is settling uj), and it will be a mere 
 matter of time when they may be equal if not superior to ours. Their 
 sources of supply for ammunition, while adequate for present wants with 
 muzzile-loading guns, will be more precarious as they adopt improved 
 weai)ons, and doubly so in case of war. The quality of arms and sources 
 of supply of ammunition are more minutely described with each tribe. 
 
 The most friendly feeling exists between the white people and Indians 
 of the archipelago, and this is quite noticeable among the older and 
 permanent residents of the former class, many of whom declare that if 
 a war is ever occasioned it will more than likelj^ be the fault of the 
 whites. Such expressions, so foreign to frontier parlance, augurs well 
 for the relation between the two elements. Through the medium of 
 labor offered by the new industries springing up in this coast-water 
 strip, the Indians are gradually learning the value of money and its 
 many benefits, and where this foothold has been gained all other ben- 
 efits in their behalf sink into insignificance compared with it. 
 
 Everywhere I found a sincere desire for the reoccupation of Alaska 
 by the military, more probably in the fact that it represented some 
 permanent form of law and order than any anticipated trouble from 
 Indians. The unsolicited expressions conveying these desires, often 
 the first part and burden of the conversation, were too prominent and 
 general not to be genuine. In fact, it was their prominence and from 
 evident desires of citizens that this paragraph finds its way into my 
 report, for it formed no part of my instructions. The almost total lack 
 of civil and criminal law in Alaska is also beyond my province, except 
 so far as it might possibly affect the military if called upon ; but no good 
 citizen can visit the Territory and see the many evils resulting there- 
 from without at least noting them as a fact, whatever may be the object 
 of his visit. 
 
 In closing this general account of the Thlinkits I shall give a very 
 brief summary of the principal tribes not visited and described in full, 
 using the best data obtainable. 
 
 The Hydas or Haidahs inhabit the southern part of the Alexander 
 Archipelago and the northern part of the Queen Charlotte Archipelago 
 (the northwestern outlying islands of British Columbia), and number 
 about 500 in Alaska Territory, one-third of whom, as with the rest of 
 the Thlinkits, may be considered warriors. There are two main villages 
 of them, the Kaiaganies near Kaigau Harbor, and the Kliarakans near 
 the Gulf of Kliarakan. 
 
 The Hennegas, in and around Cape Pole, number probably 350 to 
 400. 
 
10 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 The Cliatsinas, not far from the hitter and numbering probably a 
 tritie more. The hist two are reported to be more peaceful than the 
 former, who are credited with havinj; murdered the crew of a small 
 tradinj; vessel visiting their country. 
 
 The Kakes (Kakus) already noted, who occupy the Kuprianoflf Island, 
 the greater majority of whom are concentrated on the northwestern 
 part, in and around the vilhige of Klukwan. There are estimated to be 
 between 800 and 1,200 souls. They are one of the most warlike bauds 
 of the Thliiddts. 
 
 The Kous or Koos, uumberiug 600 to 700, are very similar to the 
 Kakes in disposition, and occupy the shores of Kou Island, just west of 
 the Kuprianoff Island, with their principal village (Kou or Koo) directly 
 opposite Klukwan, the Kake viUage, and almost in sight of it. 
 
 The Sundowns (or Soundun) and Takos, numbering 350 to 450, who 
 live on the mainland from about Tako Kiver to Prince Frederick Sound, 
 their principal villages being Shuk and Sundown or Sounduu, both on 
 Stephen's Passage. 
 
 The Hoodsuahoos, numbering 750 to 000, who live along the northern 
 shores of Chatham Strait. 
 
 Besides these there are the Asonques and others of less importance 
 and of whom but little is known. 
 
 We left the Cape Fox Cannery in Boca de Quadra Inlet shortly after 
 noon of the 29th of May, and proceeded towards Wraugell, which is on 
 the northern part of an island of the same name, arriving there at 4.30 
 a. m. on the 30th. Near here was Fort Wrangell, one of the three posts 
 formerly occupied by the military. The Indians in and around this 
 point are Stickeens, described under the head of Indian tribes. Their 
 immediate village lies on the rocky beach just east of the town, and is 
 of the usual stereotyped Thlinkit character, a row of log buildings be- 
 tween high-tide and dense timber, with gable ends facing these, and 
 back of them the graves of the medicine-men, all others being burned, 
 I believe, while in front are the totem poles, signifying the ''family 
 tree," of the particular cabin dweller before whose door they stand. 
 
 Wrangell itself is not much less rickety in appearance than the Indian 
 village alongside, and is kept alive by the miners passing to and from 
 the Cassiar mines on the Stickeen River within the British Possessions. 
 Many of these miners also winter here, and there is much more business 
 done than its lifeless appearance would indicate. 
 
 We left Wrangell at 8 a. m., rounded Cape Ommaney, the southern 
 cape of Baranoff Island, between 5 and 6 p. m., en route to Sitka, where 
 we arrived at 5 o'clock next morning, May 31. Baranoff Island, with 
 Sitka on its seaward face, is the land of the Sitka Indians, a tribe de- 
 scribed in full in the proper subhead. Sitka Harbor is one of the best 
 in Alaska Territory, and while the channel is a little tortuous, once 
 within it is finely protected by an outlying chain of islands and reefs. 
 The old Russian barracks at this place were once occupied by troops 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 11 
 
 and are still kept in good order, and furnished ample shelter to the ma- 
 rines of the man of-war stationed in Alaskan waters under the orders 
 of the Treasury Department. Like all points facing directly on the Pa- 
 cific coast of this continent, and which are under the influence of the 
 deflected Japanese current, its climate is much more equable both sum- 
 mer and winter than corresponding points inland and on the Atlantic 
 coast. The mean summer temperature, as shown by nearly twenty years' 
 observations, is a little below " temperate " on the Fahrenheit scale, 
 while the mean for the winter is about "freezing" on the same scale. 
 
 The wreck of the Eureka in Peril Straits, just north of Baranoff Island, 
 was visited in order to leave some wrecking machinery, and a good 
 chance was had to visit the shore and get a general idea of the char- 
 acter of the land. The rugged inequality of the land, its constant inter- 
 section by channels of the sea, large and small, have all been dwelt upon. 
 Viewed from these channels nothing is seen but a dense growth of dark 
 evergreens, covering the steep mountain-sides, and oue would think 
 from the great incline that it would be at least well drained and dry. 
 But even here there is a thick spongy covering of moss, amply saturated 
 with the numerous rills trickling down the hill, and which makes climb- 
 ing more than doubly laborious. It covers dead logs, quaking bogs, 
 and slippery shale or shingle, and persons cannot tell when they will 
 receive a severe fall or sink in up to their knees, if not farther. Ouce 
 on top of the hills, a few openings clear of timber are found, but if any- 
 thing the bog is deeper, the moss thicker, and a luxurious growth of 
 aquatic plants and bushes often conceal the innumerable small ponds 
 connected by a network of sluggish channels of oozy mud. Here bear, 
 deer, or mountain goats may be encountered, but from the difficulties 
 presented Indians or white men do very little hunting. Every one trav- 
 els by water and by water alone. 
 
 On the 1st of June, about 4 p. m., we reached Killisnoo, in Chatham 
 Straits. Killisnoo was formerly a whaling station of the Northwest 
 Trading Company, and has been converted into a cod-fishing station, 
 which must be remunerative from the improvements they are making. 
 A large pile dock, probably the finest in Alaska, gives easy access to 
 their buildings on the land. Directly opposite this is the village of the 
 Kootznahoo Indians (described farther on in full), and the site picked 
 out by the late Brevet Maj. Gen. Jeff. C.Davis, colonel Twenty-third 
 Infantry, as the best in the archipelago for a military post. Since that 
 date its importance for such an object has become more marked by the 
 geographical distribution of the new industries springing up in this part 
 of Alaska. A great many of the Kootznahoo Indians had their faces 
 blackened, a fact 1 noticed among a number of other tribes to a greater 
 or less extent, which was explained as being a protection from the bright 
 glare of the waters while fishing on them. 
 
 Twelve hours' run from Killisnoo, almost due north, brought us to 
 Pyramid Harbor in Chilkat Inlet at the head of Lynn Channel. Here 
 
12 MILITAKY KH(;ONNAl.SSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 tlii'ic are two salinoii caiinoiit's, recently erected, one on either side of 
 the iidet, witli j^ood prospects that I have since heard have been fully 
 verilied. 1 dis('inl)arked my jtarty at Pyramid Harbor at the lai-ge can- 
 nery of the Northwest Trading' C«)mpany on the west side of the inlet, 
 and everythinji: was done by Mr. Carl Spuhn, its sni)erintendeiit., to 
 facilitate my movements in tliis vi(;inity, and to assnre the success of 
 my expedition in the future, and his aid was of the most serviceable 
 character. 
 
 ]My instructions, •' to endeavor to complete all information m each sec- 
 tion of the country before i)roceeding to another, in order that should 
 time not permit the full completion of this work it may be taken up the 
 following: season," had induced me to choose the valley of the Yukon 
 Kiver as that district of the most importance in the Territory and of 
 which little or nothing w^as known in a military sense. The slow prog- 
 ress that had been made in previous explorations from its mouth, fight- 
 ing its swift current, led me to think that this obstacle could be made 
 to subserve my purpose in descending it from its head if it could be 
 reached under favorable cn^cumstances. Also the fact that I was in 
 general exi)ected to complete any chosen district in a single summer had 
 weight in investigating the \'ukon Kiver from this end. There are some 
 three or four passes through the coast range of Alaskan mountains 
 leading from the inland passages of the Pacific Ocean to the sources of 
 the Yukon River, one of which, called the Taliko, I believe had been 
 crossed by Mr. Byrnes, a practical miner, who, employed by the West- 
 ern Union Telegrai)h Company in 1807, made this journey as far as 
 Lake Tahko of my map, coming down the river, uuirked coming in on its 
 south side, and was here recalled by a courier sent by the com[)any, who 
 had abandoned the enterprise owing to the success of the Atlantic 
 cable. 
 
 No surveyed map was made of this journey or ever demanded by his 
 employers, as near as I can learn, and if the rest is as inaccurate as the 
 part he has furnished from memory, and which I afterwards visited in 
 small part, this route is still open for exploration. 
 
 The Lynn Channel, at its head, divides into two deep inlets the Chil- 
 kat and Chilkoot, each receiving rivers at their heads, and from these 
 valleys lead out trails that reach different sources of the Yukon River, 
 and that have been known to have been traveled by the Chilkat and 
 Chilkoot Indians, respectively, for many years in the past, the object 
 of these expeditions being to trade with the interior Indians, the Tahk- 
 heesh, or, as the white men call them, the " Sticks." 
 
 Over the first pass (the Chilkat) to the head of the Tahkheena the 
 onlj' explorer to traverse it has been Dr. Krause, of Berlin, sent out by 
 the Bremen Geographical Society to make explorations and especially 
 ethnological collections in the Schukchi Peninsula of Siberia and Alaska. 
 Since returning, I also learn by his report to that society that he had 
 traversed the Chilkoot Pass. These maps, like all work done by the 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 13 
 
 Kranse Brothers, were of tlie most excellent character and valuable for 
 future reference. They appear in the proceedings of the Bremen Geo- 
 graphical Society for 1882, and should be copied and kept ou file in the 
 proper ottice of these headquarters. From Indian reports I understand 
 that it takes about twelve days for them to make this Chilkat-Tahkheena 
 portage, carrying their effects upon their backs, but once over this long 
 portage the Tahkheena has no important falls or rapids from the lake 
 at its head to its junction with the Yukon. The Chilkat River has also 
 a trail at its head leading over to the stream emptying into Yukatat 
 Bay, which tl>e Indians make, loaded as described, in about fifteen to 
 eighteen days. I was told by one, who is undoubtedly good authority, 
 tliat these two trails were the only ones used by the Chilkats going from 
 the inlet and river of the same name back into the interior, theChilkoot 
 trail being monopolized by the Chilkoot Indians, although they are a sort 
 of independent subtribe of the Chilkats and often associated with them 
 iu descriptions and in reality closely interwoven. The Chilkoot trail 
 leads up the inlet to a branch one called the Dayay and through it to 
 the mouth of a river of the same name, thence to its head and across 
 the mountains to one of the sources of the Yukon, and requires only 
 three or four days to be made, its disdvantages being the three or 
 four caiions, rapids, or cascades that obstruct that part of the river to 
 which it leads. It was the route taken by my purty and is described 
 more in detail in the running account of the voyage. Over it the Chil- 
 kats were not only allowed to travel, but the Indians of the interior, the 
 Tahkheesh or "Sticks," are permitted to cross out to the Pacific waters, 
 a blockade once thoroughly maintained against them by both Chilkats 
 and Chilkoots over their respective passes. Mining j^arties, in small 
 numbers, had also crossed this trail iu order to prospect the headwaters 
 of the Yukon for valuable minerals, but as far as any results were ob- 
 tained, outside of their imposed labors, nothing had been gained by 
 their attempts ; still their adventurous efforts should receive the highest 
 commendation, for hadthej" been or should they be successful in devel- 
 oping rich mineral in this section of the country (which must be limited 
 in its industries to minerals and fisheries), they would do a practical 
 good only to be measured by the value of the discoveries. 
 
 The Indian packers over these mountain jjasses usually carry 100 
 pounds, although one I had walked along readily with 127, and a miner 
 informed me that his party employed one that carried 160. The cost of 
 carriage of a pack (100 i>ounds) over the Chilkoot trail for miners has 
 been from $9 to $12, and the Indians were not inclined to see me over 
 at any reduced rates, despite the large amount of material required to 
 be transported, some 2 tons. By giving them two loads, or doubling 
 the time over the portage, a slight reduction could be had, not worth 
 the time lost in such an arrangement, and I made contracts with enough 
 of them to carry my effects over at once. Mr. Spuhn was also very ener- 
 getic in his efforts to secure for me better terms but without avail, and 
 
14 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 after 1 li;ul crossed the trail I in no way blamed the Indians for their 
 stubbornness in nuiintainin<jj what seemed at Urst sij;ht to be exorbitant, 
 aud Duly wondered that they would do this extremely fatiguing labor 
 so reasonably. 
 
 The head chief of the Crow clan of the Chilkats had died about the 
 time of my arrival, and his sumptuous funeral, conducted iu a village 
 about 15 milies above Pyramid ITarbor, stretched over several days of 
 feasting and orgies before his body was to be burned on a funeral pyre, 
 seriously threatened to delay my expedition getting away, but I do not 
 think we lost over a day thereby. 
 
 The party jiot away at 9.50 a. m., iu a large skiff' and nine or ten 
 canoes towed by the launch "Louise," belonging to the Northwest Com- 
 pany, the latter carrying the heavy effects and the former mostly loaded 
 with the Indians, some forty to forty-five in number, intended as packers. 
 The course was down (south) the Chilkat Inlet around Point Seduction 
 aud up (north) the Chilkoot Inlet to the Chilkoot mission, now occupied 
 by the Kev. Mr. Willard and family as a missionary station and school, 
 and was formerly the trading station of the Northwest Company until 
 their cannery was established in the Chilkat Inlet. I walked across the 
 narrow peninsula separating the two iulets about 3 miles, I believe, and 
 found it well wooded, the trees doing well enough for sawing timber if 
 required. There was grass 4 aud 5 feet high on the trail, aud the innu- 
 merable flowers in bloom looked very much unlike the general idea 
 of Alaska, until the mountains that surround these little valleys were 
 brought in view with their tops aud gulches buried iu snow and glacier 
 ice. 
 
 At Chilkoot mission four or five canoes with the usual complement of 
 Indians (about twenty Chilkoots) were attached to the already long 
 chain, and at 2.15 p. m. got away up the Chilkoot lulet. Shortly after 
 we entered the Dayay Inlet, an arm of the former, aud at 6 o'clock p. m. 
 reached its head where the Dayay River comes in. Here the effects 
 were lightered ashore in the canoes and skiff", aud the launch returned. 
 Before camping, the stores and supplies were put in canoes aud 
 " tracked up " the river about a mile, the mouth of the stream being 
 really but a complex mass of miul fiats, here deposited by the river and 
 held back by the tides and prevailing southern storms. A short dis- 
 tance above the new camp (No. 2) a camp of Tahk-heesh or "Stick" 
 was found, and I employed a few to complete my quota, aud also to re- 
 lieve those that had brought along squaws, their wives, to do their 
 complement of the hard work, these poor creatures receiving nothing 
 for their labor. Also a spare one was secured in case of sickness in 
 such a large force. 
 
 The Dayay Inlet and valley is of the same general character as the 
 inland passages of the archipelago, a river-like inlet between high hills 
 covered with spruce and pine nearly to the top, the latter predominat- 
 ing in the lower levels the former in the higher, aud capped with barren 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 15 
 
 granite mountaius, covered ou the toi) and in the gulclies with snow and 
 glaciers, which furnish water for innumerable cascades and waterfalls. 
 These glaciers ou the mountain-tops become better marked as the river 
 is ascended. One on the west tide of the Dayay may be said to com- 
 mence opposite the mouth of that stream, if not before, and continue 
 along it some 10 or 12 miles until its outline could no longer be followed 
 in the fog and mist that nearly always cling to their faces, especially 
 during the warm summer months, when the atmosphere charged with 
 moisture from the warm waters of the near Pacitic is driven against them 
 by the sea breezes. 
 
 The Oregon blue grouse could be heard hooting in the woods, and in the 
 quiet evenings a perfect chorus of them filled the air. Trout had been 
 caught in the fish-weirs of the " Stick " Indians, and offered us for sale, al- 
 though the most persistent fishing the whole length of the river with both 
 fly and bait was unrewarded. This may be due to the discoloration of 
 the water by a whitish mud ground off the mountain sides by the glaciers 
 cutting through calcareous rock. The tracks of black bear, fresh and 
 old, were very numerous, and one was seen but not secured. The val- 
 ley of the Bayay, like so many in this part of Alaska, would make a 
 favorite summer camp for those officers and men who wished to break 
 away for a while from the routine monotony of garrison life. Mountain 
 goats and deer can also be added to the game list. From the foot of 
 the steep mountaius on one side of the Dayay Valley to the other — about 
 one-half to three-fourths of a mile — the river bed and the valley is filled 
 with great bars of bowlders, sand, and coarse gravel, with here and 
 there groves of poplars, willows of several varieties, and birch. The 
 river is very swift, averaging from 30 to 75 yards in width to the head of 
 canoe navigation in a cascade 10 miles from its mouth, although half as 
 far again j)robably by the stream, winding from one side to the other of 
 its narrow valley. It often breaks into many channels, and occasionally 
 a fording place for footmen can be found in wide shallow rapids. To 
 the head of canoe navigation most of the party's effects were "tracked" 
 in canoes, although those Indians not having these craft were com- 
 pelled to at once commence carrying their loads upon their backs, their 
 ungenerous companions not allowing them the use of their canoes, al- 
 though as far as I could see it would have entailed no extra labor to 
 have done so. That it was mere selfishness is shown in the fact that I 
 knew several of them even refused to ferry their loads across the stream, 
 thus forcing the packer to a devious route to some fording place, or 
 even over the mountain spurs to avoid it altogether. lu cases of sick- 
 ness of companions they are no better, stoutly demanding a share of 
 the spoils, and I had no occasion to regret my spare packer taken along 
 for such emergencies. These restrictions apply to the Chilkats and 
 Chilkoots, the Tahk-heesh or "Stick" Indians forming a commendable 
 contrast, their reasonable and humane conduct to each other being no- 
 
16 
 
 MILITARY RKCONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 ticcd wlu'icvor tliey wi-re encountered, IVoin here nearly to old Fort 
 Selkirk. 
 
 Directly at the head of canoe navijiation there is no f?ood camjMng 
 place, and our camp (No. 3) was made about a mile short of the cascade 
 that marks it. We white men had been compelled to wade the river a 
 number of times to reach it, but our spare packer had been used as a 
 means of transportation, his lejjs being- more used to the ice-water just 
 from the jjlacier beds on the hill-tops. 
 
 After going into camp the greater majority of the Indians spent their 
 spare time in gambling at a game called la-hell, in which there was a free 
 interchange of dirty clothing and prospective wealth accruing from this 
 particular trip, their orgies and rude savage songs often las-ting i)ast 
 midnight. This, combined with the Pompeiian pictures engraved on 
 their rude birch-bark hats, showed that they were still open for mis- 
 sionary eflbrt. 
 
 About 2J miles beyond the head of canoe navigation on the Daj'ay 
 the Jfourse Eiver comes in from the west, and althougli receiving a 
 different name by the Indians (the Kut-lah-cook-ah) is really the great- 
 est in breadth and volume of water of the two forks. The valley of 
 the Nourse is alpine and i)icturesque beyond descrii)tion. A large lake 
 is found at its head according to Indian authority, a system of sources 
 quite common among the rivers of this mountainous part of the coun- 
 try. A short distance bej'ond the mouth of this west fork camp l^o. 
 4 was established near some perpendicular blocks of basalt rock, and in 
 view of another glacier extending down between the two rivers. Here 
 a dense grove of small firs near the river bank kept a number of the In- 
 dians busy cutting long, slender fishing-poles, which they put, away in 
 secure i)laces to be taken home ujton their return from my expedition. 
 These poles, when seasoned, are pointed with a double-barbed gig, like 
 the one shown in the figure, and which is a very common fisliing in- 
 strument among all the natives of sub-Arctic America. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Up to camp 4 the labor had been very light, even for tlie packers, 
 believing it to be a fair indication of the trail ahead, I had come 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 17 
 
 to the concliisiou that their high charges were exorbitant and the port- 
 age very easy to be made. 
 
 Ou the 10th the party started at 7.30 a. m., the trail leaving the nar- 
 row valley, oftentimes not wider than the river bed itself, and leading 
 np over the mountain spnrs of the eastern Side of the stream. The in- 
 land walking has already been described, and the present was no im- 
 provement on it in any particular. Occasionally the path would debouch 
 into the river-bed wherever it was wide enough to give a mile or two 
 of walking and wading, and then would strike over the mountain sides 
 again. At places on the latter it would be very easy to lose the trail 
 where they followed for long distances over great winrowsand avalanches 
 of broken bowlders and shattered stones varying in size from a person's 
 head to the size of a small house. These grand barricades of bowlders, 
 more often of crescentic shape across the course of some steep gulch or 
 ravine, are of very recent origin, as shown by their often embedding 
 willow and birch trees not over twenty to thirty or forty years old and 
 still alive, half way up to their tops or 10 to 20 feet from their original 
 stumps. 
 
 Although the distance to camp 5 was but a little over 10 miles, it 
 was fully equal to 30 miles over an ordinary road, and consumed twelve 
 hours in passing over it, the greater part of this time, however, being 
 occupied in resting from the extreme fatigue incurred while traveling 
 over short but severe stretches. The last few hundred yards was over 
 snow banks, and with the pass through the coast mountains directly 
 ahead of us covered with snow to our feet. This camp 5 is at what is 
 known among the Indians traversing this pass as the " stone house," 
 but is really only a jumbled mass of huge bowlders so thrown together 
 that the natives can crawl under them and find sleeping places without 
 being in contact with the snow. 
 
 Nothing could show the endurance of these Indians better than to 
 state a fact that occurred after going into camp at this place. A mount- 
 ain goat was seen on the highest ridges of the mountains to the west 
 of the valley, some 2,000 to 2,500 feet above our position, and was im- 
 mediately hunted by one of the Indian packers, who passed around him 
 and came back upon his position, frightening him, however, before he 
 could get a shot. He then chased the animal, almost keeping up with 
 him, down into the valley where we camped, and up the steep mountain 
 slopes of the eastern side, equally as high as those mentioned, and all 
 this immediately after he had carried over a hundred pounds across the 
 trail which has been described. 
 
 The greater portion of the Indians and white party were under way 
 on June 11, shortly after 5 o'clock in the morning, and the pass 
 through the mountains directly ahead at once essayed, and so steep 
 and difficult was it that it was not before 10 o'clock that morning that we 
 had reached the crest, 4,100 feet above the sea-level and probably 3,000 
 feet above camp 5, although the distance gained forward could not 
 S. Ex. 2 2 
 
18 
 
 Mll.lTAin' in:C()N\AISSAN'CK IN ALASKA. 
 
 have been iiuu'li over L* miles. It seemed marvelous beyond measure 
 liow these small Indians, not avera^injj;^, I believe, over 140 i)ounds each, 
 could carry 10(» pounds up such a precipitous mountain, alternately on 
 steeply inclined jilacial snow aiul treacherous rounded bowlders, where 
 a misstep in many i)laces could have hurled theui hundreds of feet 
 down the slope or precipices. The stunted branches of trailiufj vines 
 and their roots, and even on their hands and knees, were often used in 
 the steepest ascents. Many of them had rough alpenstocks cut in the 
 Dayay Valley with which they steadied themselves in bad jjlaces, and 
 on the snow covering the mountain sides trails were madeby advance 
 parties arranging footholds inclining inwards before essaying them 
 with their i)acks. 
 
 1 would state here for the information of the department commander 
 that photographs taken by the drj-plate amateur process were secured 
 at such places as were of interest and the time and method of trans- 
 porting would allow. Mr. Homan, topographical assistant, acted as pho- 
 tographer. The ])lates, originally 5 by 8 inches, have been compelled 
 to be trimmed down to the size submitted herewith, owing to some de- 
 fect in the camera or lens in not extending the view fully to the edges 
 
 
 
 of the plate. Many of the plates are defective, as will be seen by in- 
 spection, and are only tit to be used by artists in securing accurate 
 sketches of the country or incidents portrayed. I have since learned 
 from a professional photographer, Mr. Davidson, of Portland, Oreg., who 
 has develoi)ed my plates — forty-two in number — that considering the 
 brand and reputation of the plates used, the cheap character of the pho- 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 19 
 
 tographic apparatus, and tlie rough nature of such an exploration, with 
 its crude transportation, that the photograj)her deserves the greatest 
 credit for doing so well under such circumstances. I would like to add 
 that no expedition for obtaining information of any character should 
 be sent to such an isolated and imperfectly understood country as 
 Alaska without a photographic apparatus and accessories of the very 
 best character, and with a good trained manager for the same if pos- 
 sible. The greatest good to be obtained is too evident for discussion. 
 
 Figure 4, given above, is a view of camp 1, at Chilkat Alaska, look- 
 ing directly against the bold bluff" back of the cannery of the Northwest 
 Company. 
 
 After departing from Chilkat but two of the tents were used, or car- 
 ried along, and a great deal of the heavier and less useful baggage left 
 in charge of Mr. Carl Spuhn, at the cannery. Back of the center, be- 
 tween the two middle tents, can be seen a bank of snow (June 6, 1883), 
 and in such jjrotected places these can be seen the year round, even at 
 the sea-level, and in positions well separated from glaciers, where they 
 would be expected to be found. 
 
 Fig. 5 represents a view^ from same standpoint as No. 2, but looking 
 northward up Dayay Valley. Below the mist and fog covering the gla- 
 cier of the mountain can be seen a small finger of the Saussure glacier 
 putting down a little farther than usual. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 The i^acking over the pass (named Perrier Pass) was of the most 
 severe Alpine character of climbing, suj^plemeuted by the immense 
 loads already described. 
 
 After leaving the notch in the pass, the hills or mountains still tow- 
 
20 MILITAKV KKCOXNAISSANCK IS ALASKA. 
 
 erin<;' troin 1,000 to L*,000 I'eet on eitlior side, as near as could be rou<;lily 
 estimated tliroujih the driftinf; fofj, and buried in glacier ice, the descent 
 for the tirst two-thirds of a mile is tolerably raj)id on to a lake, possibly 
 an extinct crater, which it closely resembles, called Crater Lake, of about 
 100 acres in extent, and which the Indians told nie, and which surround- 
 ings corroborate, is the head of the Yukon River. This lake was still 
 frozen over (June 11), and the ice covered with snow in a melting con- 
 dition. 
 
 I noticed that day that tlie Indians in following a trail on snow up 
 hill, or on a level, or even a slight descent always follow in each other's 
 tracks as much as possible, so that my large packing train made a trail 
 that could easily be accounted for by supposing that only five or six In- 
 dians had passed over it. When going down a steep descent, however, 
 each one makes his own separate and distinct trail, and they scatter out 
 over many yards. I thought this worth recording in estimating their 
 numbers under such circumstances. 
 
 Some G to 8 miles of snow was passed over on the trail that day, the 
 entire distance traveled being about 15 miles, reaching camp at 7 p. m., 
 the distance being fully equal to 50 miles of walking on an ordinary 
 road. In manj' places before reaching camp the snow bridge over the 
 river had tumbled in, revealing j)eri)eudicular abutments of snow banks 
 often 20 to 25 feet deep. 
 
 Camp G, the first one on the waters of the Yukon River, was on a 
 beautiful Alpine lake, over 10 miles long, and picturesque beyond de- 
 scription. Here the greater majority of the hired Indians were paid ott 
 between 7 and 9 p. m., many of them returning that night over the 
 Kotusk Mountains to the head of the Dayay at " the stone houses," it 
 being light enough at midnight, especially on the whitesnow, to see the 
 trail perfectly. 
 
 Tr might be of importance in a military sense to know if a Govern- 
 ment pack-train of mules could pass over the trail from head of canoe 
 navigation on the Dayay River, or even the mouth of that stream to 
 Lake Lindeman. As the trail now stands, or as we passed over it, I 
 should say not ; but believe one could be possibly found by a competent 
 person inspecting this route for that particular jiurpose. As far as ''the 
 stone houses" a rough trail could be had by woodmen clearing it at 
 needed intervals. From " the stone houses" to Lake Lindeman the 
 trail would depend more on the time of year than any other function, it 
 being better in winter when the snow would be harder than the 
 spring or summer, although in these seasons I do not look on a trail as 
 impracticable, if a proper search be made with that object in view. The 
 iact that the country beyond Perrier Pass, in the Kotusk Mountains, 
 lies in British territory (as shown by our astronomical observations and 
 other geographical determinations when brought back and worked out) 
 lessens the interest of this trail beyond the pass to the military au- 
 thorities of our Government. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 21 
 
 On Lake Lindenian there were a couple of very dilapidated " dug 
 out" canoes, and the Tahk-heesh or " Stick" Indians owning them rep- 
 resenting that the lake was but a few miles in length, in fact just around 
 Cape Koldewey, of the map, and that they could transport all my goods 
 in two days, I accepted their offer, knowing that the draining river of 
 Lake Lindeman was full of rocks, rapids, and cascades, which a raft, 
 my proposed method of navigation, would not pass according to their 
 testimony, and not desiring to build two within such a short distance. 
 A continuous gale of several days from the south effectually put a stop 
 to their contract, the consequent waves on the lake being sufficient to 
 swamp them should they venture in such rough water. Accordingly, 
 the 13th of June, about noon, the party commenced building the raft, 
 which was finished the next evening, on a plan of 15 by 30 feet, and one 
 deck of pine poles amidships, Mr. Homan deserving considerable credit 
 for its plan and superintending its construction, all the white men doing 
 well, and the Indians as good as could be expected from their well known 
 aversion to monotonous work of routine character. 
 
 The morning of the loth of June the raft was tested by eleven per- 
 sons of the party on its deck and found to be inadequate for carrying all 
 the effects and party, owing to the small logs of dwarf spruce and con- 
 torted pine with which the builders had been constrained to construct 
 it. About half the effects were placed on board, and three of the white 
 party put in charge, a wall-tent si)read for a sail, and at 9.20 a. m. she 
 was cast loose to sail the length of the lake, which she did by 3.15 in the 
 afternoon, so strong was the wind blowing. Although waves fully 2 feet 
 high were running, so well were the effects protected by canvas above 
 and below, and so high was the ])ole deck, that nothing was injured by 
 the water that constantly broke across the raft. Mr. Homan, Mr. Mc- 
 intosh, and Corporal Shircliff' had been in charge of her during this 
 day. The remainder of the party walked overland by the eastern shore, 
 the journey being very fatiguing, although a pack-train trail could be 
 made here with a little work in shape of woodcraft. The remainder of 
 the effects were brought by canoes in the hands of my own Indians. 
 
 I might add here that from the Kotusk Mountains, along the part of 
 the Yukon Kiver we traveled, as far as its junction with the Pelly, or 
 at old Fort Selkirk, there is but one tribe of Indians, the Tahk-heesh 
 or "Sticks," and these are described in their proper places. There- 
 fore that much of the journey, nearly 500 miles, if described, would be of 
 more value to geography than the military, and I shall try and confine 
 myself to that part of this section which will illustrate my r.ift journey, 
 that being important in this country as a means of transportation, the 
 swiftness of the rivers and their general freedom from obstructions 
 being conducive to the employment of this primitive craft in traveling 
 in one way. 
 
 A view on Lake Lindeman, looking backward from Payer Portage, or 
 southward towards the Kotusk Mountains, the higher ridges of which? 
 
22 
 
 .MILITARY KKCONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 (•()V('n>(l with glacier ice. luive (condensed a fofj upon tbeir slopes so as 
 t(» be iinisible. About half the len<;th of the lake is visible. The draiu- 
 iiiji' rixcr is to the li^ht lowei' corner of \\n\ |)icture. 
 
 Fk; (1, 
 
 Through the river that drains Lake Lindeman, about a mile and a 
 quarter long, before it empties into another lake, we shot the raft, 
 June 16, losing the side logs and giving it a general shaking up that 
 
MILITRRY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 23 
 
 loosened many of the pins and lashings, in the rapids, cascades, and 
 over the rocks and bowlders, on one of which it stuck and had to be 
 pried off. 
 
 The next two days were consumed in repairing the raft on a plan of 
 15 by 40 feet (really about 16 by 42, counting projections not included in 
 plan) instead of 15 by 30 feet as formerly, while two pole decks were 
 constructed with a rowing space between for side oars, the bow and 
 stern oars being retained, however; larger and more bouyantlogs were 
 placed in, but unfortunately none could be secured of sufficient size to 
 go the whole length of the craft and give it that solidity which would 
 be so much desired in striking sand, gravel, and mud bars, or water- 
 logged timber in swift currents, or sailing across lakes in rough weather. 
 
 The portage connecting the two lakes was called Payer Portage, and 
 Fig. 7 is a view looking from this portage westward into a valley of a 
 river (Homan River) coming in from that direction, and is given as a 
 good representation of the valleys in this particular part of the country. 
 
 Fl.i. 8. 
 
 Fig. 8 is a view on Payer Portsige (looking north along the trail) and 
 represents a Chilkat Indian with two ammunition boxes going over the 
 portage. The amount some of these packers will carry seems marvelous 
 and makes estimates for pack mules or trails therefor seem superfluous. 
 Their only packing gear is a couple of bands, one passing over the 
 forehead, where it is flattened out into a broad strip, and the other over 
 the arms and across the breast; the two meet behind on a level with 
 the shoulder, and are there attached to lashings more or less intricate, 
 according to the nature of the material to be transported. If a box or 
 
24 
 
 MILITAUV RECOXNAI.SSA.NCK IX ALASKA. 
 
 stitV ba;;, tlio breast-band is so arraiif^ed in rcf^anl to leiijith that when 
 the elbow is phieed against it (tlie box) tlie strip tits ti<;litl.y over the 
 extended forearm across the ])abn of the hand bent backwards. The 
 headband is then the width of the hand beyond this. At least I saw 
 a few Indians arranjjing their i)a(;ks and their harness according to 
 this mode. The harness proiter will not weigh over a pound, and the 
 lashing according to its length. The strip across the head and breast 
 is of untanned deer skin about 2 inches wide, witli holes or slits in the 
 ends i)r<)te('ted from tearing out by spindles of bone or ivory. 
 
 ^losquitoes now commenced getting very numerous, and from here 
 to the mouth of the river they may be said to have been the worst dis- 
 comfort the party was called on to endure. They often made many inves- 
 tigations, usually carried on in explorations, imi)ossil)le of execution, 
 and will be the great bane to this country should the mineral discov- 
 eries or fisheries ever attempt to colonize it. 1 have never seen their 
 equal for steady and constant irritation in any part of the United States, 
 the swamps of New Jersey and the sand hills of Nebraska not excepted. 
 It was only when the wind was blowing and well out on a lake or wide 
 portion of the river that tlieir abominable torment ceased. 
 
 Fijc. 9. 
 
 Fig. 9 is a view from the northern end of Payer Portage northward 
 into the second lake, named Lake Bennett, about one-sixth or one- 
 seventh of the length of the lake being seen, it being about 30 miles 
 long. The draining river from Lake Lindeman comes in on the lower 
 left portion of the view. The " Iron Capped Mountains " on the right 
 being covered with glaciers are hidden in the mist these always pro- 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 25 
 
 duce this time of the year, especially a day that ^yo^ld be favorable for 
 taking a photograph. 
 
 On the 19th of June, with a favorable wind along Lake Bennett, we 
 started from Payer Portage at 9.20 a. m., and by 3 in the afternoon the 
 wind had increased to a gale, and by 5 the waves were running so high 
 that the raft threatened to break in two, there being no logs running clear 
 through the whole length, and at that time we sailed for the beach on 
 the eastern side and finding a protected cove went into camp. There 
 being a number of large logs at this place the next da.y was spent in 
 putting four of them the length of the raft, and the 21st the journey 
 was resumed. Eighteen miles from the head of the lake a large river 
 comes into Lake Bennett from the west, which I named Wheaton River, 
 after Brevet Major-General Wheaton, in temporary command of the 
 department when the reconnaissance was organized, and to whom the 
 expedition is indebted for many favors in putting it on a good footing 
 for the accomplishment of its ends. 
 
 Lake Bennett was ended that day, the 21st, through a draining river 
 called "Caribou Crossing" by the Indians, nearly 2 miles long, which 
 empties into a small lake named Lake ISTares, a little over 3 miles long. 
 This lake turns square to the east, and the steady south wind was now 
 60 baffling on our new course that progress was very slow and annoy- 
 ing. After passing through the short draining river of Lake Nares, 
 probably a couple of hundred yards long, another lake (Bore) 8 miles 
 long, still trending toward the east, is entered, and around its eastern 
 limiting cape (Point Perthes) Lake Tahk-o is entered, 18 miles long, 
 and by the time its outlet is reached the northern course is resumed. 
 My map shows the Tahk-o Eiver coming in from the south, and to this 
 part of that river a white man (Mr. Byrnes) has explored, although the 
 remainder of the Yukon to Fort Selkirk is placed in full lines (the topo- 
 graphical significance of which is that it has been passed over by ex- 
 plorers engaged in map-making) on many maps, notably the latest 
 Coast Survey maj) by W. H. Dall, and a map in the same author's book 
 entitled "Alaska and its Resources," although no white person has yet 
 passed over this route until the present expedition and taken cogni- 
 zance of its geography. All Alaska is filled up in this way with rivers 
 and their branches, even on Government maps, that have yet to be 
 traversed by white men in any capacity, let alone topography and sur- 
 vey. Probably the parlor authors of these maps think they are doing- 
 no more harm than giving way to a too eager desire of " making out a 
 full map ;" but in this connection 1 desire to state briefly an incident 
 that will show this in another light : A party of miners being on this 
 river, and discouraged at the prospects, had almost determined on re- 
 turning, and one person, relying on the maps in their possession, had 
 equally determined to go on, as the chart showed three or four Indian 
 villages on the river, and by taking advantage of these he thought 
 he could reach old Fort Selkirk, and from thence prospect at 
 
26 
 
 milhakv reconnaissance in Alaska. 
 
 will. The party did not return, however, but on continuinj^ their jour- 
 ney they found no relevancy between the map and the country trav- 
 ersed ; and the single person referred to particularly noticed the ab- 
 sence of all liulian villages, and, worse than all, of all Indiana even, 
 and had he continued his journey alone, would more than likely have 
 pcrislu'd, or at the very least have undergone severe and unexpected 
 iiai'dships. 
 
 On the L*Gth of June, in p-^ssingout of Lake Tahk-o, we entered the 
 tirst considerable stretch of river we had met — a little over 9 miles long — 
 and were nearly three hours in floating through, although we remained 
 stuck a short time on a mud flat in its current. Its down-stream en- 
 trance is full of bowlders, forming a serious obstruction to navigation, 
 but one that is possible with care and judgment. It is about 300 to 400 
 yards wide. On its right bank was a deserted Tahk-heesh house, which, 
 with one about 20 miles above the site of Fort Selkirk, are the only 
 signs of permanent habitations from the Kotusk Eange to the Yukon 
 junction with the Pelly. Along the narrow river bank or lake shore 
 between these two points are often seen three poles forming a tripod — 
 one of them much longer than the other two — which Indicates the camp- 
 ing places of the few persons of this abject tribe. A dirty piece of can- 
 vas, or an old caribu skin riddled with holes, thrown over the longer 
 pole, makes their tent, and this makes their residence for the greater 
 part of the year. 
 
 The next lake, which I named Lake Marsh, after Professor Marsh of 
 Yale College, is nearly 30 miles long, noticeably wider than any of the 
 lirevious ones, and so full of mud banks extending out from the shore 
 
MILITARY KECONNAISSANCK IX ALASKA. 
 
 27 
 
 that the raft which drew from 20 to 22 inches could seklom get nearer 
 the beach than 50 to 100 yards and tlironi^h the soft mud for that dis- 
 tance the camping' effects had to be packed on our backs at each of 
 such places. 
 
 Fig. 10 represents a limited view on Lake Marsh looking to tbe south- 
 west from camp 14 of the reconnaissance. Directly over the point of 
 land in the right of the picture is seen the gap where the Yukon empties 
 into Lake Bove, and the next gap over the left center is the one made 
 by the Tahk-o coming in from the south. 
 
 Fig. 11 is a view looking north along the same lake from the same 
 stand point, about one-fifth the length of the lake being under the eye 
 in the two photographs. 
 
 Thus far it had been noticed that the trees leaned in more or less con- 
 spicuous inclinations towards the north, thus plainly showing the pre- 
 vailing direction of the stronger winds, and this is of importance in 
 calculations leading to expeditions down this part of the river in any 
 sort of craft needing sails for propulsion. 
 
 The heavy growth of last year's grass shows undoubtedly good graz- 
 ing, but the mosquitoes in the summer and the intense cold in the win- 
 ter would not warrant this industry — cattle or sheep-raising — being- 
 undertaken in this part of the country until all stock ranges in every 
 other part of the world had been exhausted. The many tracts of yellow 
 grass looked not unlike the stubble-fields in more temperate climates. 
 
 The afternoon of the 28th of June, from 12.15 until 2.15 o'clock, we 
 experienced a very decided thunder shower coming from the east, and 
 
28 
 
 MILITAUV RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 wiiit'h is tlie Hist, 1 believe, ever chronicled on the Yncon Kiver, tliej'^ 
 beinj; unknown on the lower i)art of this <;reat stream. 
 
 That (late, the -Sth, we sailed past niidnij^ht, so important did we 
 deem it to take advanta<;e of every breath of wind in the right direc- 
 tion, especially on the lakes, and at that hour of the night we were 
 close enough to the Arctic Circle to read type the size of ordinary news- 
 papers, and but one star, Venus, was visible in the unclouded sky. 
 
 The 20th of June we passed out of Lake Marsh into the river, past 
 the mouth of a river, the McClintock, that we took to be the outlet. 
 The river valley was now wooded to the water's edge, and it was often 
 hard work to find a good camping place in the dense growth of willows 
 that lined the bank. Muskrats were numerous in this part of the river. 
 
 Early in the morning of July 1st, we approached the great rapids of 
 the Yucou and the only ones of importance in the navigable part of 
 that great stream. 
 
 An inspection of them showed them to be nearly- five miles long 
 and extremely dangerous for any sort of a craft in going through them. 
 The first three-quarters of a mile the stream narrowed to nearly one- 
 tenth its preceding average width, rushes and boils through a canon 
 with upright basaltic columns for its sides, the center of this cailon, in 
 its length, widening into a whirlpool basin where the water's edge 
 could be reached on the western shore. 
 
 yiG. i; 
 
 Fig. 12 is a view from the mouth of the cailon, about one third the 
 length of it. It then widens out into nearly its original breadth, but 
 running swiftly over shoals, bars, and drifts of watter-logged timber 
 much more dangerous than the cafion itself for anv sort of a navigable 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 29 
 
 craft, though probably not so iu appearance. I named this canon (the 
 only one on the Yukon liiver) and its appended rapids after the de- 
 partment commander, and it so api)ears on the maps submitted. Just 
 before the rapids reach their termination the river-bed ajjain contracts 
 and flows through basaltic columns from 15 to 20 feet high, and finally 
 rushes through a narrow cascade with ascending banks, and so swift is 
 the current and so narrow the chute that the water is forced up the 
 banks on the sides and pours in sheets over these into the cascades 
 below, making a perfe(;t funnel formidable to behold. 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 Fig. 13 is a very imperfect photograph looking back (southward) at 
 these cascades, an instantaneous view having been undertaken during 
 very unfavorable weather. 
 
 Through the Miles' Caiion and Rapids the raft was "shot" July 2, 
 and although the side logs were torn off in a collision with the basaltic 
 columns of the canon, no further damage was done, and she was beached 
 about half a mile below the cascades where a couple of days were occu- 
 pied in repairing the injury and putting on new decks from the fine, 
 straight, and seasoned poles found in the vicinity. 
 
 Fine grayling were caught in large numbers in all the rapids near the 
 caiion, and a considerable sized party could subsist on them if provided 
 with proper tackle for securing them. 
 
 On the 5th of July we got under way again, and a little after noon 
 passed the mouth of the Tahk-heen-a, a stream about two-thirds the 
 size of the Yukon, where they join. By it the Chilkats used to seek 
 the Tahk-heesh country for trading purposes as already narrated, and 
 
30 MILITARY KKCONNAISSANCK IX ALASKA. 
 
 yet return by it at times, as they say it is uot obstructed by any rai)i(ls 
 or cascades of considerable size, or that will compare with those of 
 Miles' Canon. Its waters were very muddy, and while evidently smaller 
 than the Yukon, the j;eneral (characteristics of the valley of the Tahk- 
 heeu-a are continued on ilown the former stream. That evening, on the 
 .~)th, we camped on the head of the last lake (about 30 or ."57 miles long), 
 called Kluk-tas-si by the natives, and this name is still retained on the 
 maps, although there is a lake called Labarge on Bail's maps, above old 
 Fort Selkirk, which I cannot identify by any of his topography, it being 
 generally so erroneous. Except being a little larger in size, it resem- 
 bles Lake Marsh, already described. Its eastern bank or shore is backed 
 by large rolling and conspicuous rounded hills of gray limestone, the 
 gullies between being wooded with spruce or pine, and forming a pic- 
 turesque contrast with the light-colored hills. I named them after 
 General Hancock of the Army. 
 
 On the Dtli we passed out of Kluk-tas si, and when I desired to camp 
 that evening I found the current so swift and the river so uniformly 
 wide and canal-like that no eddy could be found to slacken the gait, 
 and it was with diftlculty that we secured the raft to the shore. In this 
 part of the river we usually grounded once or twice a day on sand, mud, 
 or gravel bars, and I think I have given them in the inverse order of 
 the difficulty experienced in getting off them, sand being the worst and 
 gravel the easiest from which the raft can be liberated. That day, the 
 9th, we passed the mouth of the Newberry River, coming in from the 
 right (east), about 125 yards wide at its mouth, and flowing a deep vol- 
 ume of clear but dark colored water, evidently drainings from tundra 
 land, or land in which the lower strata of winter-formed ice in the moist 
 earth does not melt owing to its protection by the dense forests and 
 deep moss, and consequently the water is surface-drained directly into 
 the rivers and their tributaries after having been impregnated with the 
 dyes of the leaves and moss, which would have been lost could they 
 have percolated through earth. A large grizzly or grizzly-colored 
 brown bear was seen on the bluff marked with that name on the map, 
 but we were unable to secure him. 
 
 Nearly 40 miles farther on another large river, the D'Abbadie, comes 
 in from the east, and probably 150 to 175 yards wide at its mouth. 
 
 Another 40 miles and the Daly River, a little over 100 yards wide 
 comes in from the east. 
 
 Fifty miles beyond the Dab" the Nordeuskiold comes in from the 
 west, and is probably 150 yards wide at its mouth. 
 
 With the accession of all these rivers the Yukon becomes ov^er half 
 a mile wide, and near the Nordenskiold becomes very tortuous, Tanta- 
 lus Butte of the map being seen directly ahead of the raft some six or 
 seven times on as many different stretches of the river. Islands also 
 become freely interspersed in its bed, and their up-stream ends are 
 often piled over with drift timber of all sorts in barricades from 5 or 10 
 to 20 feet high. 
 
MILITARY HECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 31 
 
 On the 12tb of Julj' we "shot" the last rapids of importance on the 
 Yukon River (the Kink Rapids), and althoiioli the river is very much 
 contracted at their site and pours in several channels through towers 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 of rock, I think the eastern channel could be ascended by a light- 
 draught steamboat with a powerful steam windlass, so favorable is the 
 bank on this side of the stream, just above the rapids, for such an un- 
 
32 
 
 MlLir.VliV liKC').\N.\lSSA.NCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 dertakiiig. If Kiuk Kapids can be ascended then tbe cascades in Miles' 
 Kapids is tlie head of navigation on the Yukon, raakinji" this river navi- 
 jrablo 1,8(1(5 miles from the Aphoon month, tlie only one that boats now 
 enter or from which tlicy depart. 
 
 The eveninj; of the 1-th we cam[)ed at the Indian village of Kitl-ah- 
 gon, where the other house mentioned in a previous part of the report 
 is to be found, the village being made up by brush- wood houses, as 
 shown in the idiotograph herewith given as Fig, 14. 
 
 The house and village were deserted when we visited it. 
 
 Fig. 15 is a view looking up the Yukon from Kitlah-gon. 
 
 Fig. 16 is a view down the Yukon from Kitl-ah-gou. The view back 
 into the valley of the small stream (Von Wilczek Valley) is also very 
 picturesque and pretty, and is much more conspicuous than the valley 
 of the Pelly some 20 miles farther on. 
 
 From Kitl ah-gon to the site of old Fort Selkirk the Yukon runs 
 through a network of islands (IngersoU Islands), so intricate that it was 
 seldom that both banks were in sight from the raft at the same time 
 In Fig. 16 the lower ends of three and the center of one beyond are 
 in sight. 
 
 July 13 the site of old Fort Selkirk was made out by the conspicu- 
 ous chimneys that could be seen from the raft on the river, being a 
 little below the junction with the Pelly and on the western or left-hand 
 bank, despite the fact that all the maps in our possession placed it be- 
 tween the two rivers. 
 
 The fate of Fort Selkirk, a Hudson Bay trading post, has already 
 been alluded to — burnt in 1851 by a party of Chilkat Indians because 
 it interfered with their trade with the Tahk-heesh and other Indians. 
 It has never been rebuilt, and its chimneys, three in number, are all 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 33 
 
 that is left to mark the spot, aud these are buried in a poplar grove 
 that almost overtoi)S them. 
 
 Fii;. 17. 
 
 We remained near the site of the old fort until shortly after noon of 
 the 15th, getting astronomical observations, which placed this site in 
 latitude 62° 45' 30" N. aud longitude 137o 22' 45" W. of Greenwich. 
 
 I had also determined to make close estimates on the relative sizes ot 
 the Pelly coming in near this point from the east and the river down 
 which we had just descended, aud which wns called the Lewis Kiver 
 by the old Hudson Bay traders, to see which was the Yukon proper, 
 although a short inspection made it evident that no close measurements 
 were needed, the Lewis River preponderating over the Pelly in width 
 and volume of water, noticeably to the eye. 
 
 This position on my maj) is very important, although in a manner 
 partially outside of ray instructions, in that it marks the point where 
 my explorations cease, and from the spot near Lake Lindeman where 
 Dr. Krause turned back on his trail to old Fort Selkirk, a distance of 
 nearly 500 miles. Geographical science is under obligations to this 
 reconnaissance, for mapping a region worse than unknown, worse in 
 that a region, improperly mapped by guesswork and other equally un- 
 reliable data, is as much worse than no map than no map is worse than 
 a good one. I feel confident that these charts, submitted as a part of 
 my report, although in no w^ay claiming perfection, will render unneces- 
 sary any more minute surveys until some industry may open up this 
 section, should that event ever come to pass. Fisheries and minerals 
 are the only possible incentives for such industries. Except the astro- 
 nomical observations, the map Avork was in the hands of Mr. Homan> 
 and the credit for the same belongs to him. 
 S. Ex. 2 3 
 
34 MILITARY KECONNAISSANCK IN ALASKA. 
 
 My invostif^sitions, reiKiIiing^tlie wholo, length of the Yukon River, over 
 I'jOOO miles, were necessarily of such an extended nature, geographi- 
 cally, that 1 have deemed it i)r(>j)er to subdivide the same for conven- 
 ience, and have done so into three parts, lully described on the appended 
 itinerary of Part 1. 
 
 liiiieranj of Part 1 of Ike map of the route of the Ahinka military revoiniaisauiice of l8H3, 
 Lieutenant Svhwatka, U. S. Armi/, eommandintj, from data compiled hy Topoyraphieal 
 .\KKi8tant Charles A. Homan, U. S. Army, topographer of the reconnaissance. 
 
 Lociilitv. 
 
 Stafuti 
 
 IUilL-i<. 
 
 From CliilUoot Mission to mouth of Dayay River 16. 1 
 
 From tlu'Ui'»' to lieatl of canoe navigation on Dayay River 9. }> 
 
 From tlioufo to nioutli of Noursf. Rivor { west) 'J. S 
 
 From tliciKx- to Porrior Pass in Kotusk Mountains (4,100 feet) 11. W 
 
 From tlienre to Crater Lalic (Iiead of Yukon) 0. G 
 
 From thence to camp on Lake Lindcman j 12. 1 
 
 (Length of Lake Lindenian, 10.1.) 
 
 From tlience to Cape Koldewey (Lake Lindenian) 3. 7 
 
 From tlience to north end of Lake Lindenian 5. & 
 
 From tlience to south end of Lake IJeunett, or length of Payer Portage (here Homau River 
 
 comes in from the west) ' 1.2 
 
 Fixim tlience to Pie.jevalsky Point (mouth of Wheaton River) (west side) ' 18. I 
 
 From thence to Richiird's Kock (east side) .... 1.2 
 
 From thence to north end of Lake Bennett ( Watson Valley is drained by two rivers here come 
 
 in from the west) [ 10. 
 
 (Length of Lake Bennett, 29.3.) 
 
 From thence to west end of Lake Xares (through river called Caribou Cros.sing) 1. 7 
 
 From thence to east endof Lake Naies (or length of lake) 3. 2 
 
 From tlience to Perthes Point (or length of Lake Bove, with bay, and possibly river coming 
 
 in from south) 8.8 
 
 From thence to mouth of Tah-ko River (south) 7. 8 
 
 From thence to north end of Lake Tah-ko '■ lo. 3 
 
 (Length of Lake Tah-ko, 18.1.) 
 
 From thence to south end of Lake Marsh (or length of connecting river) , 9. 1 
 
 From thence to north end of Lake Marsh or length of Lake Marsh (McClintock River com- 
 ing in from east) 28. S 
 
 From thence to ujiper end of Miles Canon on Yukon River , . i 50. !) 
 
 Fioni thence to length of Miles Canon and rapids 4. C 
 
 (Head of navigation on Yukon.) 
 
 From thence to mouth of Tahk-heen-a River (west) 23. 1 
 
 From thence to north end ot Lake Kluktas-si (possibly Lake Labarge; ] 17. 8 
 
 From thence to Rlchthofen Rocks (and probably river) (west side) ' 14.4 
 
 From thence to north end of Lake Ivluk-tas-si j 22. 1 
 
 (Length of Lake Kluk-tas-si, 3G.5.) 
 
 From tlience to Maunoir Butte (east) 16. 2 
 
 From thinre to Red Butte (west) 3.2 
 
 From theme to Grizzly Bear Banks (west) [ 9.4 
 
 From tlitiiei' to mouth of Xewberrv River (east) ' 8. 9 
 
 From thence to mouth of D'Abliadie River (east) ' 38. o 
 
 From thence to mouth of Daly River (east) 41. (j 
 
 From thence to Fagle's Nest Butte (ea.st) 10 7 
 
 From thence to Nordenskjold River (west) 39. 1 
 
 (Tautalus Butte is in this vicinity approached six or seven times.) 
 
 From thence to Rink Rapids on the Yukon 2.'). 4 
 
 Fi-om thence to U(>ot-(^he-koo Blulf (east) 2.5. 8 
 
 From thence to Von Wilczek Valley (east) 17. 
 
 Fiom thence to FortSelkirk (through aichipelago called IngersoU Lslauds) (west) 21. 3 
 
 Total length of Pait 1 or the part explored and surveyed by reconnaissance* 538.8 
 
 Total length of raft .journey on I'art I (from camp oii Lake Lindemau to Fort Selkirk) j 486.8 
 
 Total length of raft journey on Yukon River, from Lake Lindeman to Nuklakayet (being ] 
 
 the longest raft Journey in the interest of geographical science) T i 1,303.2 
 
 Total length of Yukon River I 2, 043. 5 
 
 *Part 2 extends from Fort Selkirk to Fort Yukon, being the part sttrveyed by reconnaissance, hav- 
 ing been exploieil by Mr. Campbell, Hudson Bay Company. 
 
 Part 3 extends from Fort Yukon to Aphooii mouth, lieiug part explored bv Glasunoff, Malakoti, 
 Zagoskin, Kennicott, and Strachan Jones, and surveyed by Captain Raymond, U. S. Army. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 85 
 
 Therefore with the reaching of Fort Selkirk the accouut of Part 1 
 becomes complete. 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 Fig. 18 is a view of old Fort Selkirk, looking up the Yukon River, or 
 southward. 
 
 Fi-'. li). 
 
3U 
 
 MIl.lTAKV KKCONNAISSANCK IN ALASKA. 
 
 Fiji. 1\) ivpi'e.sents some of the (ish oaught near old Fort Selkirk, 
 the smaller ones bcinji" the fjrayliijjj csinfjlit in such immense numbers 
 at Miles' Canon and Kajnds, and the other a salmon trout, both being 
 can "ill t from Lake IJove to the month of AVhite Kiver, about 90 miles 
 below Selkirk. 
 
 Fijj-. 20 is a view of an A-yau, or I-.van, ludian grave near old Fort 
 Selkirk; the two i)oles with appendages are invariable parts of the 
 graves of this part of the country. 
 
 Kir,. 21. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 37 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 Fig, 22 represents a iiiimber of A-yan, or I-yan, Indians in their birch- 
 bark canoes. This view was taken at old Fort Selkirk, looking down 
 the river, the Indians having come np to visit us from their village, 12 
 miles below. Descending the Ynkon, they are the first tribe to use the 
 birch-bark canoe, a means of navigation that extends from here to the 
 mouth. 
 
 Fia. 23. 
 
38 MILITARY RKC0XNA18SANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 Fi<;. li.i is a view down the Yukon River from the site of Selkirk. 
 
 The raftiiij; i)art.v left Selkirk at 1.15 p. in. on the 15th of July, hav- 
 ing waited i)ast noon to ^et a meridian observation of the sun for lati- 
 tude and a morning observation for longitude; the days as tar as par- 
 ticular hours were coneerned beinc" of but little importance, so light was 
 it even uj) to 10 and 11 o'clock at night. 
 
 The half dozen A-yan Indians that had visited us at Selkirk si)oke to 
 us of a larger village a little below, but from the appearance of those 
 we had seen on the Yukon River above we were in no way prepared to 
 see such a large camp as we met on the southern bank at 4.15 p. m., 
 numbering from 175 to 200 souls, and the largest either permaueut, 
 semi-i)ernianent, or temjiorary that we met on the whole length of the 
 river. It is of a semi-i)ermauent character. No doubt apprised of our 
 a|)proach by runners, the entire camp congregated on the river bank to 
 meet us, and as the swift river threatened to sweep us by them without 
 allowing us to make a landing, their excitement became intense, and their 
 shouts and gestures to us, of the most lively character, plainly showed 
 that they were extremely desirous of a closer acquaintance, evidently 
 taking us for a party of traders loaded with tea and tobacco, the two 
 standard requests in all their many and constant solicitations. Camping 
 near their village an inspection of it showed it to be more squalid than 
 we had expected from the bright, intelligent faces of the few we had 
 seen and the superior workmanship of their light birch-bark canoes, 
 the finest on the river. This village was wholly made of brush, and 
 evidently ouly used for a summer camp while the salmon were to be 
 caught. The Hebrew cast of countenance was very noticeable in a 
 great many of these Indians. 
 
 Fig. 24 is a very imperfect photograph of the old chief of the A-yau 
 (in the center), with the heriditarj chief, his son, on his left, and the 
 principal medicine man of the tribe on his right. They would not stand 
 in front of the camera unless a white man Avas with them, which ac- 
 counts for the other portrait. (Out could uot be reproduced.) 
 
 These Indians, in a military sense, are considered under the proper 
 subhead. 
 
 Small black gnats now commenced getting noticeably numerous, and 
 a mosquito-bar was no protection from them. 
 
 The lOth we drifted 47 miles, a number of A-yan graves being seen on 
 both banks of the river, resembling, in general, the one photographed 
 near Selkirk. In the afternoon the country became quite hilly and even 
 mountainous, but the river-bed still very full of islands, many of which 
 are densely covered with tall spruce, looking very i)icturesque in the 
 almost canon-like river bottom, there being ver3' few such large trees 
 on the hill-sides. During the day we saw a large black bear and three 
 mountain goats on the hill-sides, but our mode of navigation was not 
 favorable for hunting them and they were passed unmolested. We 
 also ran through a number of recurring and disagreeable thunder show- 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 39 
 
 ers iu the afternoon, alternating with the most blistering heat, from 
 which we could not escape while on the raft. 
 
 Very early on the morning of the 17th four A-yan Indians in as many 
 canoes, from the village we left the morning before, came up with us, 
 having left the village shortly after we had and having camped just 
 above us during the night. We kept passing each other for the next 
 three days, until lieliance trading station was reached, and judge from 
 their movements and the opinion of our Indians that white men rafting 
 and Indians canoeing on this part of the river are about the same in rapid- 
 ity of traveling. The constant stopping of canoemen to hunt every- 
 thing in the way of game, or at mid-day to cook a warm lunch, and re- 
 maining in their cramped positions but for live or six hours per day, it 
 is easy to see that it would no more than equal the steady drifting of a 
 raft for twelve or fourteen hours if carefully kept in the stronger cur- 
 rents. 
 
 During the 17th a heavy fog hung over the river during the whole 
 day, cutting the hill-sides at an elevation of about 400 to 500 feet from 
 the level of the stream. These fogs are very common on this part of 
 the river during this time of the year, and are almost constantly present 
 with the winds from the south, the prevailing ones of the summer. It 
 is probable that they are caused by the supersaturated moist air from 
 the warm Pacific being conveyed across the glacier-topped coast range 
 of Alaska and thrown down into this part of the Yukon Valley in the 
 shape of rain and fog. 
 
 At 1.30 p. m., the 17th, we passed the mouth of the White River com- 
 ing in from the south, its waters seemingly liquid mud, from whence it 
 probably derives its name. It is called by the " Sticks " the Yukokon 
 Heenah (Yukokon) or Yukokon E-iver, and by the Chilkats another 
 name, meaning Sand River, from the immense number of sand bars and 
 banks which they say exists along its course. Its waters mingle at once 
 with the Yukon (although in Dall the contrary is erroneously stati^l), it 
 emptying squarely into the latter with a current so swift as to pack its 
 muddy waters nearly directly across to the opposite bank. 
 
 About 4 p. m. we passed the mouth of the Stewart River, its mouth 
 so covered with islands that it was impossible to recognize it except by 
 its valley which was very conspicuous. Its mouth, however, is of a 
 deltoid nature, but the many islands made their accurate establishment 
 very uncertain. 
 
 On the 18th, 47^ miles were made from 8.30 iu the morning to 9.40 p. 
 m. At 1.30 we passed a number of Tahk-houg Indians on right bank, 
 with sixteen canoes, and seemed to be much neater than any we had 
 met so far, They were probably a trading party, there being one for 
 each canoe and no women with them. 
 
 At 8.30 p. m. we passed an Indian camp on the left bank, which we at 
 first took to be miners, as they apparently had such good tents, and from 
 them ascertained that there was a white man's deserted store (of which 
 
4U MIMTARV KKCOXNAISSANCH IN ALASKA 
 
 WO had licnid several times farther up the river in a more or less defi- 
 nite manner) hut a few miles farther ou, hut that he liad left some time 
 ap), goiJig down to the salt water, as they say. That eveniiift" we camped 
 at the nu)uth of a swift fair-sized river coming in from the east which 
 we afterwards ascertained of the traders to be Deer liiver, and is so 
 marked on the nm]). Here the Yukon narrows to 200 to 250 yfirds in 
 breadth ami runs swiftly between high hills. 
 
 Believing I was near the British boundary, as shown by my Selkirk 
 (ibservations, 1 waited to get another set at this i)oint, but the weather 
 was so ten)pestuous that I only succeeded in a very imperfect way, and 
 not waiting for a noon observation, got away at 11.10 a. m. 
 
 Just before 1 o'clock in the afternoon we passed the abandoned trading- 
 post of the Alaska Commercial Comi)any, Fort Reliance, on the right 
 bank of the river, and directly opposite was the semi-permanent Indian 
 village of Noo-klahk-o, numbering ai)parently one hundred and fifty 
 souls. Our approach was saluted by the firing of fifty to seventj'-five 
 discharges of guns, to which we replied by a much smaller number. I 
 found this method of heralding to be universal from here to the mouth 
 of the river, and I understand arises from a custom brought among 
 them by the Russian traders, and that has slowly traveled inland at 
 least as far as this point. These Indians are further described in the 
 ajjpendix. 
 
 Fort (?) Keliance is a dilapidated looking place of two or three houses, 
 a main store nailed up, and three others, cellar-like and semi-subter. 
 ranean in character. 
 
 Less than .'U) miles was made that day — the 19th — owing to our ground- 
 ing on a gravel bar at the head of an island, where we delayed over 2 
 hours, and finally had to " lighter" our effects ashore and camp in order 
 to free the raft. Such occurrences were not rare. 
 
 On the 20th we started shortly after 8 in the morning, and at 11.30 
 a. m. passed the mouth of a large river coming in from the west, which 
 I named the Cone Ilill River, from a conspicuous conical hill in its valley 
 near the mouth. Ever}' one of the party that attempted it found it ab- 
 solutely impossible to identif}' any incoming stream in this part of the 
 river by the maps or descri])tions now in existence. Just beyond Cone 
 Hill River three or four bears, both black and brown, were seen on the 
 side-hills to our left, and about 300 to 400 yards distant, and although 
 the most persistent firing was kept up by nearly the whole party until 
 we floated out of sight none of them were secured. 
 
 About 2.30 in the afternoon we passed a remarkably conspicuous 
 rock, looming up out of a fiat valley on the east side of the river, and 
 closely resembling Castle Rock on the Columbia, although only about 
 half the size of the latter. I gave it the name of Roquette Rock, as I 
 saw no allusion to it on any map of this part of the river. 
 
 On the 21st, having started at 9 a. m., at 12.30 we came upon a small 
 permanent Indian village on the left bank, of six houses, and from 75 to 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 41 
 
 100 souls. About a mile aud a quarter below, on the same sitle of the 
 river, was a white man's abandoned trading house, near which we 
 camped. From the Indians we learned that the trader's name was 
 Mercer, aud that he had gone down the Yukon. This station, we after- 
 wards learned, had been called by the traders Belle Isle Station. (Fig. 
 25 is left out in the compiler's report.) 
 
 The Indian village is called Johnny's Village, aud at the time of our 
 visit the chief was away in a canoe. His English sobriquet of " Johnny " 
 is the only one he is recognized by in his own country, though the In- 
 dian name of the village was Klat-ol-klin, and the Indians, as we under- 
 stood our interpreters, call themselves Tah-kong or Tahk-hong. A 
 pliotograph of the village is shown in Fig. 26. 
 
 Further information concerning this small baud is given in the ap- 
 pendix devoted to Indian tribes. 
 
 Fig. 27 is a view looking down the Yukon Eiver from the village, 
 about southwest. It may be interesting to note the high grass fairly 
 shown in Fig. 25.* From here to the mouth of the river it may be said 
 to be equally luxuriant. Underneath it in many places there is a mossy 
 or peat-like bed so tough that when the river undermines its banks in 
 these places the turf holds on to that of the bank's crest, keeping it 
 covered with a blanket of the moss. In wooded places, however, this 
 falling in of the banks drags the turf with it into the water. Between 
 camps 35 and 30 the soil, for the first time descending the river, seems 
 to be thick and black, and continues so in a varying degree until the 
 lower ramparts are again entered. 
 
 On the 23d of July we reached another Indian village, called Char- 
 
 * See explanation in regard to fignre 25. 
 
42 
 
 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 ley's Village, whicU is au exact counterpart of the one called Johnny's, 
 even to number of houses (C) and side of the river (western bank). We 
 met a Cana<lian voyageur among them who calls them and Johnny's vil- 
 lage the Tadoosh Indians, and says they are the most friendly and best 
 natured Indians on this part of the river. 
 
 xVfter leaving Camp 37 the country flattens out noticeably, and from 
 about Camp 38 to old Fort Yukon it spreads out over many miles in width 
 (said to be 7 miles wide at Fort Yukon by a trader who was stationed 
 there for several years) and so full of islands that it was about impos- 
 sible to tell when we were near the main banks. Most wonderful of all 
 in this wide extent of spreading the current seems to slacken but very 
 little in all the many intricate channels that were between, and evi 
 dently shows the deep character of the river before these numerous sul)- 
 divisioiis commence and its shallowness afterwards, as no stream of im- 
 portance helps to account for the relations between the two volumes in 
 any other way. On the evening of the 2-l:th we camped (No. 38) along- 
 side of a small river steamer called the "St. Michaels," which, during 
 the spring freshet while descending the river, had grounded on this bar, 
 and being unable to get off was abandoned, her keel being now some 6 
 or 7 feet above the level of the present stage of water. 
 
 This boat belonged to the AVestern Fur and Trading Company, organ- 
 ized in San Francisco as an opposition to the Alaska Commercial Com- 
 pany of the same city. They had recently been bought out by the 
 latter company after having existed for several years at a loss to them- 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 43 
 
 selves. This opposition had some direct bearing on the Indian ques 
 tion in that dnring its prevalence prices were put down to absurd fig- 
 ures, the Indians really getting for their furs, in some instances, more 
 
 
 Mmm^^n^--^"'^- 
 
 than they could have done probably in San Francisco itself. When 
 this opposition ceased, although the former rates were not entirely re- 
 sumed, a great step had been taken in that direction and the conse- 
 quence is a great majority of the Indians are dissatisfied with the pres- 
 ent prices, as it is simply impossible for them to believe that the previ- 
 ous low rates were not renumerative to the companies, or that any one 
 would sell anything for less than it is worth, and consequently the pres- 
 ent prices are exorbitant, and as Indians have but one way of correct- 
 ing even mistakes, a sort of strained feeling exists in many places 
 which could lead to more serious trouble. The traders on this river, 
 however, are all men of good judgment, I believe, and this fact will 
 make collisions less probable than would generally' be suj^posed. Again, 
 traders dependent upon Indians wholly for their trade, do much more 
 to conciliate them in all cases than any class of people with whom they 
 can come in contact. If hostilities are threatened they will avoid 
 them, knowing full well that if no blood is shed that the matter will 
 be conciliated in a short while and they will be able to resume their 
 trade, and that should such an unfortunate circumstance occur they 
 would for years comi^romise all chances for such a desirable termina- 
 tion. This, coupled with the object traders have in keeping sncli rupt- 
 ures hidden from both the public and other Indian tribes, has led to 
 the well-known but erroneous opinion that the Hudson Bay Company 
 have succeeded so admirably in their contact with Iiulian tribes. If 
 
44 
 
 MILITARY RHCONXAISSANCH IN ALASKA. 
 
 the Yukon llWvv olTers no lield for industry but tliiit wliich the Indian 
 trader monopolizes, it niigiit well bo doubtful whether a military force 
 would ever be needed alonj:^ its course; but from the present prospects 
 the salmon tisheries and mining; may not be far distant, and men that 
 enter these fields have no more consideration for Indians than any 
 other class of people and will treat them as friends or enemies accord- 
 ing- to the way that they themselves may elect. 
 
 On the 27tb of Jnli' we made old Fort Yukon about noon, the dis- 
 tance from the site of Fort Selkirk being 490.2 miles after correction by 
 the astronomical observations, showing' an error or correction of but 
 10.0 miles in the whole course or .0212 i)er cent., or more clearly speak- 
 ing- about 1 mile in 50, showing- that the intermediate points deter- 
 mined by dead reckoning- can be relied upon within tiuit possible limit. 
 Here we found the Alaska Commercial Company's river steamer 
 "Y'nkou" on her animal trip nj) the river for trading purposes and 
 sujjplying- the posts of the company'. These excursions were made as 
 high as Belle Isle Station and Fort Reliance before they were aban- 
 doned, but are now made wholly with reference to where the Indians 
 will be found. 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
 Fig-. 30 is a view of the interior of the old Fort Y'ukon stockade, 
 nearly all of this part having been removed by the river steamer for 
 fuel, it being handy and already cut in lengths. Two bastions are seen 
 with the stockade between, and the two buildings in the foreground 
 are the storehouse (nearest) and some of the officers' old quarters, 
 both roofed with spruce bark held down by battens. The history of 
 
MILITARY RECO^NAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 45 
 
 this Hudson Bay trading post is too well known to rei)eat here. Pass- 
 ing into the bands of the Alaska Commercial Company it was for a 
 long time tlie farthest post they possessed up the great river until 
 Reliance was established. Fort Yukon was abandoned three or four 
 
 Fig. yo. 
 
46 
 
 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 years ajjo as not rjMiiunciative, and Keliaiice and Belle Isle were then 
 established, and these two were aj,'ain abandoned recently (the fornjer 
 on aeconnt of exi)ected Indian troubles growinjj out of the opposition) 
 and Nuklakayet, about .'iOO miles below Fort Yukon, is now their 
 frontier tradin;;- station on the stream. 
 
 Fig. 31 is a portrait of Senatee, the chief of the Fort Yukon Indians, 
 as they are called by the traders, and as I have named them in my de- 
 scription of the tribe. He is the only chief on the river having that 
 power, as we generally understand it, among Indian tribes, all of the 
 others, to a greater or less degree, having but nominal intiuence with 
 their subchiefs and tribes. 
 
 I have si)oken so much of the peculiarly flat character of the Yukon 
 Valley for some 80 or 90 miles above old Fort Y'ukon, that I give here- 
 with a photograph (Fig. 32) looking south westward across from the 
 shore in front of the fort, giving clearly the easternmost channel, 
 which is but one in several of greater or less width. Mr. McQuestion, 
 who was for several years trader at the old fort, says that it is about 7 
 miles wide at this point, and he believes there are places on this flat 
 l)art of the river where it may attain double that width. The following 
 is the itinerary of the second part : 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 47 
 
 Jtitieiary of Part II of the map of the route of the Alaska militaru reconnaissance of 1883, 
 Lieutenant Schwatka, U. S. Army, commanding, from data compiled by Topographical 
 Assistant C. A. Homan, l'. S. Army, topographer of the reconnaissance. 
 
 Locality. 
 
 Statute 
 miles. 
 
 From Fort Selkirk, B. C, to mouth of Selwyn River 33.6 
 
 Tlience to moutii of White Kiver 62. 1 
 
 Thence to mouth of Stewait River 9. 7 
 
 Thence to mouth of Deer River 65. 6 
 
 Tlience to Fort Ruliauce 6. 5 
 
 Thence to mouth of Cliaudindu River 12. 
 
 Thfuce to mouth of Cone Hill River 27. 5 
 
 Thence to Roquette Rock 13. 
 
 Thence to John's Village 33. 
 
 Thence to Belle Isle Station | 1-1 
 
 Thence to bouiKlarv line 141° west* 20. 3 
 
 Thence to mouth of Totondu River i 10. 
 
 Thence to mouth of Tahkandik Kiver 22. 4 
 
 Thence to Charlie's Village 29. 
 
 Thence to St. Michael's Island 47. 4 
 
 Thence to Fort Yukou 97.0 
 
 From Fort Selkirk, B. C, to Fort Yukon, Alaska 490.2 
 
 \ ^ 
 
 * Length of Yukon River in British America, 783.3 ; length of Yukon River in Alaska, 1,260.2. 
 
 Part I, or the part, explored and surveyed by reconnaissance, 538.8. 
 
 Part III extends from Fort Yukon to Aplioon mouth, being the part explored by Glasunoft', Mala- 
 kolf, Zagoskin, Kennicott, and Strachan Jones, and surveyed by Captain Raymond, U. S. Army. 
 
 The party remained at old Fort Yukon during the 28th of July to de- 
 termine rate and errors of chronometers, and on the 29th the journey 
 was resumed, and between 7 a. m. and 8.45 p. m. drifted 50i (geographi- 
 cal) miles, or over 4 statute miles per hour, plainly showing no diminu- 
 tion in the current despite the wide-spread character of the channel. 
 At 11.30 a. m. we passed an Indian village of 5 or 6 tents, on one of 
 the many islands in the channel, of probably 20 to 30 souls, although 
 very few appeared, being probably absent hunting and fishing. On the 
 beach were 7 or 8 birch-bark canoes, and lounging around was the 
 usual higli number of Indian dogs. This day, the 29th, was an exceed- 
 ingly hot, blistering day on the river and almost unbearable on the 
 raft, as we liad no means of counteracting it on such a craft. To put 
 up an awning of canvas was to seriously obstruct the view of the stern 
 oarsman, who was responsible for the raft, and who needed this view to 
 distinguish the swift from the slow currents, the sand, mud, and gravel 
 bars where the vessel was likely to be delayed, and many and the worst 
 of which were just under water ev^en in the middle of the river, also 
 snags, and landing places after camping hoars. Again, an awning of 
 canvas caught considerable wind, and if this was considerable and any 
 otherdirection than fore and aft, steering was almost impossible. Here, 
 within the limited part of the Yukon River in and near the Arctic zone, 
 our greatest discomforts were the blistering heat and dense swarms of 
 gnats and mosquitoes that met us at every turn. The night of the 29th- 
 30th but very few of the party slept well, owing to the gnats, the mos. 
 quito-bars being no protection from the diminutiv^e pests, and we con- 
 sequently got an early start on the 30th, shortly after in the morn- 
 ing, the day contrasting strangely with the one before. A cold and 
 
48 MILITAKV KECONNAISSANCK IN AJ>ASKA. 
 
 (lisajjivoabli! wiiul with heavy doiuls made the contrast, and gave u.s 
 dillicnlt work in steering ck^ir of the leo banks, the small amount of 
 bulky bajigage on the rait forming- a sullieient surface to the wind to 
 determine this. The ;U)th the raft drifted 44 geographical miles in thir- 
 teen hours and ten minutes to Camp 43 of the map. The wind had its 
 compensating feature, however, in keeping away the mosquitoes and 
 gnats at night, so that one could sleep. 
 
 The 31st of July the raft drifted 45 miles in thirteen hours to Camp 
 44 of the map, and that evening commenced raining so hard and so cou- 
 tinued tiu> next day, the 1st of August, that we remained in camp. The 
 femur and molar tooth of a mastodon were found in the gravel bar near 
 Cami)44, the remains of these animals having been found in large numbers 
 in the valley of the Yukon River, and especially this flat level portion of 
 300 miles extending between the upper and lower ramparts. At old 
 Fort Yukon an Indian who showed us a tooth said that it came from a 
 comi)lete skeleton about two days' journey away that the river was ex- 
 posing by undermining action. 
 
 The 2d of August we drifted but 20 miles in twelve hours, a strong 
 wind keeping us against the left bank so as to impede our progress- 
 We were Ibrced into oiu^ slough by it that was so sluggish in current 
 that, altliough but 2 miles long, we were over two hours drifting through. 
 A number of such slack- water places were encountered that could easily 
 have been avoided in less stormy w^eather. At 3 p. m. we passed a 
 double log-house on the right bank, with two or three small elevated 
 log caches, peculiar from this point to the mouth of the river, two graves, 
 &c., all of which seemed very new, although the place was deserted, 
 very recently however. Many signs of Indians Avere noticed as we 
 approached the "lower ram])arts," as the hilly country is called. On 
 cami)ing at 7.30 p. m. we were but a short distance from the entrance to 
 these hills, and ii was with the greatest satisfaction that we approached 
 them and left behind the flat country which we had traversed for 300 
 miles, and was tedious and irksome beyond measure iu its monotonous 
 flat scenery. The whole length of this flat country there are but very 
 few Indians, the mosquitoes driving the game out of its domain, and 
 the innumerable number of wide shallow channels into which the river 
 divides making fishing for them less certain than in the hilly districts. 
 The establishment of Fort Yukon at the mouth of the Porcupine in- 
 duced many to congregate around this spot, as is usual with frontier 
 trading posts, and although it has been abandoned a number still re- 
 side at the siK)t as a sort of trading point with the river steamer in its 
 annual visits, and possibly the reluctance with which people abandon 
 their homes of long standing despite their unfavorable positions. 
 
 On the 3d of August the raft was started at 7.30 a. m., and entered 
 the "ramparts" shortly after. Through this part of the ramparts the 
 country and river looks very much like the Columbia Eiver near the 
 Cascades. A few Indians were now visible, and old and permanent 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 49 
 
 signs of them quite numerous. About p. m. we passed a well-built 
 Indiau house ou right bank of the river, with log and stake steps up the 
 steep river bank, 
 
 We camped at 8.30 p. ni. near several Indian graves, about a mile 
 or two above the mouth of the Whj^mper Eiver, one of which graves is 
 shown in Fig. 33, where several had been buried during the raging of an 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
 epidemic some two or three years before. The fence around is the result 
 of Christian influence, but their other superstitions cannotbe wholly over- 
 come, as shown by the poles with the symbolic totems of geese, ducks, 
 bears, &c., on their tops. The ramparts ou the 3d so closely resembled 
 portions of the ramparts of the Middle Yukon between Selkirk and Belle 
 Isle that the conviction seemed irresistible that they are identical chains 
 stretched like a bow string across the great arc of the Yukon, bending 
 northward into the flat Arctic tundra land. At Camp 46 I found several 
 varieties of berries, not only edible but very acceptable, despite the gen- 
 eral dwarfed and stunted condition of most of them. 
 
 The 4th of August we made 47 miles through the ramparts. At 7.50 
 a. m. we passed the concealed mouth (as going down stream) of the 
 Whymper River coming in from the left. Through this part of the 
 river between Camps 46 and 47 were many signs of Indians, as caches, 
 old camping places, &c., along both banks, but singularly enough no 
 Indians were visible, and the presence of wolves around these positions 
 made me think that their absence had been for some little time. That 
 day we had a most disagreeable gale of wind, hardly worth noticing 
 except for the fact that with the exception of a very few days it con- 
 tinued unceasingly to the mouth of the river, and the observations 
 S. Ex. 2 4 
 
50 MILITARY RKCONNAISSANCK IN ALASKA. 
 
 of previous explorers and observers make eejtain the tact that sncb 
 weather is the prevailing nature during' the summer season. Many 
 of the small creeks that put into this part of the river, and draining 
 thron^ih tin' swampy tundra land, while so dear that their bottoms may 
 be seen even in deei) i)laces (0 atid 7 feet deep) are highly colored with 
 a port wine hue, which contrasts strongly with the muddy waters of the 
 Yukon, where they Join. This may be caused by iron, as outcroppings 
 of that chaiacter were seen. 
 
 Twenty-seven miles were made next day, August 5, rain showers in 
 the morning delaying onr start until 8.o5 a. m. At 2.10 p. m. we drifted 
 past the spot known as "the rapids of the Yukon," being, until the 
 present expedition surveyed the whole length of the river, known as 
 the worst impediment on the river. We had been anxiously expecting 
 them, and had some fears that they might prove disastrous to our rough 
 means of navigation, but it was not until we were past them that we ob- 
 served them at all, being represented by a bar of white bowlders around 
 wliich the waters flowed as placidly as around any bar in the river. 
 At high water the river may flow over this bar with some commotion, 
 for it is here constricted into 300 or 400 yards in width, but during the 
 great* r part of the time navigation would be essayed it certainly is not 
 woith considering. 
 
 Ab(mt half a mile below the " rapids," on the right bank of the river, 
 is the first considerable sized Indian village encountered after leaving 
 the flat country described. It consisted of two tents and four birch-bark 
 houses with from forty to tifty souls. Eight canoes put off to meet us 
 and fresh salmon were procured from them, the tirst we had had for 
 several days. This part of the Yukon Kiver, is quite picturesque, equal 
 to that for 100 or 200 miles below the site of old Fort Selkirk, and supe- 
 rior in grand outline to any scenery from here to its mouth. 
 
 On Monday, the Gth of August, having started at 8.30 a. m., at 0,10 p. m. 
 we made Nuklakyet, the fartherest outlying trading station of the Alaska 
 Commercial Company on the Yukon Kiver, and were glad enough to 
 meet permanent civilization, and part with our rait, on which we had 
 navigated the river for over 1,300 miles. Nuklakyet station was in 
 cliarge of ]\[r. Harper, an old employ^ in these regions, and, like all 
 such, seemingly content with his isolated lot. A small garden was at- 
 tached to his station on a bank with a southern exposure and good 
 drainage, and here he cultivated the rougher varieties of hardy vege- 
 tables. Turnii)s were grown that weighed six and a half pounds, and 
 other varieties of vegetables were equally surprising, considering the 
 high latitude, within less than 100 miles of the Polar Circle. 
 
 Fig. 34 is a view of Mr. Harper's trading station looking westward, 
 with the little garden in the foreground. 
 
 It is typical of the fact that when tisheries line this great river, as 
 they are sure to do, and mining camps dot its tributaries, as indications 
 show they maj-, that with such rough vegetables as may be grown and 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA 
 
 51 
 
 sncli varieties as will bear transportation, that life mny be made more 
 bearable than one would think from its extreme isolation. 
 
 Fig 34. 
 
 Fig. 3J 
 
 Fig. 35 is a view of the means of transportation used in this part oi 
 Alaska both in summer and winter, the two boats explaining them- 
 selves by the figures, while in the foreground is the usual sledge of this 
 part of the Yukon Valley to its mouth. At this point also commences 
 
52 
 
 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 the Ksquiiuaux dogs used with the sledges, all those previous being of 
 the Indiiiii variety, a smaller, but, I believe, a hardier variety. 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 Pig. 36 is a view of a group of these dogs, there being over 50 at this 
 station, having been collected by Mr. Ed. Schieftelin, a mining capitalist 
 l)n)spt'ctiug on the river, for his winter's use in sledging. 
 
 Fig 37 
 
xMILlTAKY RKCONNAISSANCK IN ALASKA. 53 
 
 The subject of procurinji' siillicieiit food for so hii<;e ii force of ani- 
 mals was a serious one, and Mr. Harper informed nie that lie expected 
 to kill a uuniber before winter. Their susteuanceis wholly dried salmon, 
 for which the white traders pay a cent apiece in trade. Among these 
 fish so furnished is found the king salmon, the variety well known as 
 the best for general canning purposes. 
 
 Fig. 37 is one taken of the raft at the point where it was abandoned. 
 At Nuklakayet we obtained a 12-ton " barka" (as it is called by the 
 traders of the river), which is really but a small decked schooner of 
 that capacity. There were no sails except a small flying-jib, and it was 
 my intention to float down the river with the current as I had with the 
 raft, except such small aid as I might get from the jib when the wind 
 should be favorable. I might here add, however, that the usual wind 
 was from the general direction we desired to go, and, as already stated, 
 of a steady tempestuous character. 
 
 We remained over at Nuklakayet the 7th of August, transferring 
 from the raft to the " barka " and preparing the latter for her drift. 
 
 The 8th the voyage was resumed, and made 37 miles by drifts, being 
 aided on occasional bends of the river by the jib. Private Eoth of the 
 party was a good sailor, and his services were in much demand in this 
 hybrid system of navigation. We found it much harder to get near 
 shore in the '' barka " so as to go into camp than it had been on the 
 raft. It was also much more cramped, but in compensation for this we 
 could keep dry during the rainy weather and to a great extent protect 
 our more valuable property from the same, and we certainly needed this 
 protection, for the weather during the rest of the month was the most 
 continuously bad of any summer weather I have ever experienced. 
 Mosquitoes were still very numerous, and we were either getting so used 
 to them that they appeared so or they were really less aggravating 
 than on the upper half or two-thirds of the river. 
 
 Starting early on the 9th with a light wind in our face we had just 
 reached a wide open part of the river, not over a mile from camp, when 
 this breeze increased to a gale, with white-capped waves 3 or 4 feet 
 high, and so strong as to hold the " barka" almost at a stand-still even 
 in this strong current. We were compelled to run for an anchorage, 
 and here remained until 4 p. m., when we drifted some 7 or 8 miles, the 
 wind dying to a calm, and the mosquitoes consequently as numerous 
 as ever. 1 found that day that the " barka," turned broadside to a 
 head wind, drifted much faster than when head or stern on, and this 
 fact afterwards saved us many miles in our navigation. I afterwards 
 ascertained that the traders on the river secured this without efltbrt by 
 suspending a heavy anchor or large bucket or basket of stones from 
 the sprit so as to hang in the water. We secured the same result by 
 constant work at the stern oar, aided by the hatchways used as sails 
 near the stern. 
 
 The 8th and 9th we passed very few Iiulian indications, and, in gen- 
 
54 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 oral, it may In* well to ii'inaik tliat tor some distance on either side ot 
 a tradinjjT station the Indians seldom are very numerous, being more so 
 at the station itself and at the remotest points from them. 
 
 The lOth was a rei)etition of running ashore and i)olinj]: off, as the 
 wind came up or died down. About a mile below Camp 51 we passed 
 an Indian villajxe of loj^-liouses and tents on the north bank, holding 
 jirobably fifty to sixty, there being a large fish-weir or trap on the head 
 of the island directly opposite. These Indians, even after many years' 
 intercourse with the Russians previous to our possession of the country, 
 seem to know nothing of the method of catching salmon by gill-nets 
 and the ease ami rapidity of the same. Again, about 2 o'clock in the 
 afternoon, another village of about the same size was met on the head 
 of oue of the numerous islands, engaged, as before, in fishing. 
 
 On the 11th we drifted to Camp 53, the weather disagreeable in the 
 extreme, and but few Indian locations being noticed. 
 
 On the night of the llth-12th a small river steamer came to our 
 camj), having put up below a few miles and then steatued up to our po- 
 sition, upon hearing of our presence. It proved to be a small river boat 
 built by the iScheiffelin party of miners, and as they were leaving the 
 country it had been i)urchased by three of the traders of the Alaska 
 Commercial Company, who had become dissatisfied with their treatment 
 by that com])any, and were proposing to start a trading company of 
 their own. It is called the "New Kacket," and, with the "Yukon" and 
 "St. Michaels" forms the entire steam fleet on the river. The latter is, 
 however, comparatively' worthless. 
 
 All day ou the 12th we Avere passing Indian villages, houses, graves, 
 encampments, «&c., probably representing 250 to 300 or 400 people, the 
 greater majority of whom seem indisposed to stir, owing to the inclem- 
 ent weather. At 3.30 we passed the Indian village of Sakadelontin of 
 the map. It was preceded by a number of coffins in trees, the first of 
 this character seen on the river. Heavy gloomy weather prevented 
 photographs on a most interesting part of the river. 
 
 On the 13th we passed the mouth of the Koyukuk, the largest north- 
 ern tributary of the Yukon River, I believe, although little or nothing 
 is known any great distance beyond its mouth. The Indians on its 
 shores have the worst reputation of any from Fort Yukon to its mouth, 
 but as they have uniformly brought vast numbers of furs to the nearest 
 trading posts, the traders have been perfectly willing to leave their coun- 
 try- unexplored and allow them an unmolested possession. Some of the 
 outrages of the Koyukuks are spoken of more in detail in the subject 
 of Indians. I do not believe, however, that they would resist a force 
 of twenty or twenty-five well-armed men attempting to explore and in- 
 vestigate their country. 
 
 The night of the 13tli-Uth raged oue of the severest gales we en- 
 countered on the river. 
 
 The 14th we reached Xulato, apoint of considerable importance with 
 
MII.ITAKY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 55 
 
 ret'ereuce to the history of the ohl Kussian Fur Company, it being 
 their furtherest outlying' permanent trading station on the Yukon Kiver. 
 It has been the scene of a number of massacres and murders si)oken of 
 under the head of Koyukuk Indians, and at the date of our visit was 
 abandoned, owing to a murder of a Russian trader that had occurred 
 some two or three years before, and that had unsettled the ])eaceful re- 
 lations between the whites and natives. Nulato shows much finer con- 
 struction in its buildings, erected b.y the whites, than any encountered 
 on the river so far, but they were rapidly being torn to pieces by the 
 natives since their abandonment. 
 
 Kk;. 38. 
 
 The 15th of August we left Nulato. On the same side of the river, 
 and about a mile below this point, is a large permanent Indian village 
 of about twenty-five or thirty houses and caches, and inhabited by prob- 
 ably sixty to one hundred people when the trading stores were running, 
 but now nearl}^ deserted. A number of Indian villages were passed 
 during the day in making Camp 57, but most of them seemed thinly 
 populated. The despicable weather, the removal of the trading stores, 
 and the hunting season, may all be charged with this apparent discrep- 
 ancy between houses and i)eople. From about this general section of 
 the river to its mouth the influence of Bering's Sea, and even the Pa- 
 cific Ocean, commences to be felt. The ground does not freeze to such 
 great depth, and in many places, especially southern exposures, the 
 thawing of the summer is equal to the dei)th of frost in winter, which 
 insures partial drainage, and the tundra laud, though still existiug, be- 
 comes less marshy and impassable to walking, and travels into the in- 
 terior becomes possible. From the Koyukuk band, already spoken of, 
 
5fi MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 oil down the stiTiiin Indians iirc fonnd wlio make annual inland hunts 
 in suiiuner time to secure reindeer and other pime, instead of remaining- 
 relifj^iously on the river, as may be said to be the ease above these points 
 in that season. 
 
 From near Jvalta<i' to the mouth there is no high land on the southern 
 bank, except that that can be seen in tlie distance in the way of low> 
 isolated ])eaks and short monnlain ranges, while, with the exception of 
 a few short stretches at the mouth of a sunill creek, the laud on the north 
 bank was high and often precipitous even to the water's edge. 1 think 
 it not im[)robable that Kaltag was an ancient mouth of the Yukon, and 
 it has since tilled in the shallow shores to the present delta. So shal- 
 low is Behring's sea on it« eastern or Alaskan shores that the dSbns and 
 sediment of the Yukon have formed Outlying' shoals for a distance of 
 nearly 1(K) miles from the beach, and across these shoals of sand and 
 mud no vessel of even the lightest draught can pass with safety. During 
 storms of any intensity the water lashes up the mud from the bottom 
 so near, and this serves as a useful warning to vessels when most 
 needed. It is this tact which has forced the port of the Yukon River 
 nearly a hundred miles to the north in Norton Sound (Fort Saint 
 Michaels), where vessels of reasonable tonnage can have ready access? 
 and to reach this'they i)ass in and out of the Aplioon, or northern mouth* 
 I believe, however, that a much better port could be found somewhere 
 on the Kusiloak or main mouth of the river, which has never been given 
 a ])roper hydrographic and topographical survey. 
 
 The 10th of August the wind and rain were so strong from ahead 
 that I remained over, being at a point on the river where the whole 
 channel was in sight, obstructed by no islands, and which 1 might 
 mention as being an unusual occurrence. 
 
 My object in camping at such a point was to watch for the river 
 steamer "Yukon" to take the "barka" in tow, she being unable to pro- 
 ceed out to sea, having, as already stated, no sails. 
 
 On the 17th we drifted about 25 miles, there being but little of inter- 
 est to chronicle. 
 
 The 18th we made Camp 59, and the 10th drifted but nine hours, owing 
 to the heavy head gale, which, continuing next day, we remained over. 
 
 The 21st of Augustwe camped (No. 61) at Hall's E,ai)ids of Raymond's 
 ma]), but beyond a few ripples near the northern bank and an increase 
 of rai)i<lity in the current where the river narrows, there was nothing 
 to indicate them. 
 
 The 22nd we reached Anvic, a trading station of the Alaska Company, 
 kept by Mr. Fredericksen, who treated us very kindly. He had had a 
 good deal of trouble with the Shagelook Indians recently, and was talk- 
 ing of abandoning his station if it continued. A number that had come 
 down to be baptized by the priest had cut open a couple of skin boats 
 to show their feeling, and had it not been for the friendly tribes at the 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 57 
 
 Station be thought he wouUl have been robbed, and possibly murdered, 
 iu case he made any resistance. 
 
 The 23d the steamer "Yukon" overtook us and took us in tow, the 
 remainder of the voyage being uneveutful, but the survey" of the river 
 being kept up to the Aphoon mouth. 
 
 On the 30th of August Saint Michaels was reached and on the 8th of 
 September the schooner "Leo," that had relieved Lieutenant Ray's mete- 
 orological station at Point Barrow, came into Saint Michaels and through 
 the kindness of that officer passage was secured to San Francisco, 
 where the party arrived October 5. On September 17 the party landed 
 at Ooualaska, in the Aleutian Islands, and remained several days study- 
 ing and compiling data regarding the Aleuts, which will be found in the 
 proper subhead. 
 
 It might be proper in closing this report to speak of those to whom I 
 found mjself under obligations from time to time in the prosecution of 
 the enterprise. 
 
 Of course to the members of the party itself for their untiring devo- 
 tion in their several departments is due the greatest praise. The part 
 of this report devoted to Indians, the most important in a military sense, 
 is due almost wholly to Dr. Wilson, the surgeon. 
 
 Beyond these I should like to mention Brevet Maj. Gen. Frank 
 Wheaton, colonel Second Infantry ; Lieut. C. A. Williams, Twenty- 
 first Infantry; Collector Morris, at Sitka, Alaska; Wm. King Lear, 
 Wrangell, Alaska; Captain Vanderbilt, Killisnoo, Alaska; Mr. Carl 
 Si)uhu, Killisnoo, Alaska; Mr. Downing, purser, "Idaho," P. C. S. S. 
 Co.; Captain Carroll, commanding Idaho, P. C. S. S. Co.; Mr. Greeuberg, 
 of Portland, Oregon; Mr. G. J. Mitchel, of Portland, Oregon; Mr. 
 Eobert Habersham, of Portland, Oregon; Captain Petersen, command- 
 ing Alaska Company's river steamer "Yukon;" Mr. Henry ISTeumann, 
 agent Alaska Company's Station, Saint Michaels. 
 
 Respectfully submitted. 
 
 FRED'K SCHWATKA, 
 First Lieutenant, Third Cavalry, Aid-de-Camp. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF INDIAN TRIBES. 
 
 TONGAS IIVDIANS. 
 
 This tribe of Indians, subdivided into two band^, the " Crows " and 
 " Wolves," inhabits that portion of Alaska situated about 40 miles 
 north of the boundary line of British Columbia, along* the so-called 
 " inland passage." They live on Tongas Island and on the north side 
 of Portland Channel, the principal village being on the island. From 
 Dixon Entrance to their villages would be a run of about three hours 
 for a -moderately fast steamer. The habitations are permanent and 
 situated near the water, and as the neighboring country is mountainous, 
 rough, and mainly composed of islands, duj approach, except by water, 
 would be impracticable. A free communication, however, is kept up 
 throughout the adjacent waters by means of canoes, propelled by pad- 
 dles and sails, and of various sizes ; those used in war having an aver- 
 age capacity of about three tons. 
 
 The houses themselves, which are built after the cross section as 
 shown here, are provided with a cellar about 6 feet deep and 20 feet 
 
 wjjwiIWwtW^^ 
 
 square, used principally for storage purposes, but sufficiently commodi- 
 ous to afford the inhabitants protection against rifle bullets in case of 
 an attack. 
 
 The tribe numbers about COO souls altogether, about 200 being war- 
 riors, of whom the greater majority can be called able-bodied, and are 
 
 59 
 
60 MILITARY HKCONNAISSANCE IN A1,ASKA. 
 
 provided witli some descri|)ri()M of lir-e-iirm. Tliese, iinns are for the 
 most i)art Hudson Bay Com[)any iiuiskets, i>art tlitit-lock and part per- 
 cussion, ordy a few being the more mo lern maga/aue-gun. The supply 
 of ammunition is poor, and at present obtained from the English at 
 Fort Simpson and the salmon cannery at Boca Inlet. 
 
 lu case of war with this Government it could be obtained from Fort 
 Simpson and vicinity. 
 
 Their country is well timbered, producing a variety of berries and 
 sutlicient grass for military stock in summer but not in winter. It pre- 
 sents fair prospects of gold and silver, and abounds in mountain sheep, 
 mule deer, black and brown bears, while the waters adjoining furnish 
 large quantities of salmon, halibut, clams, mussels, and sea-weed. 
 These last named articles — the fish being eaten both fresh and dried — are 
 the principal articles of food ; the 8ui)ply of which is secured mainly dur- 
 ing the summer, and, with the addition of a few clams and mussels, 
 attbrds them a means of subsistence in winter. In case of war, during 
 the summer thej^ would have to rely on the game in the mountains, 
 while in winter, as they have no domestic animals except the dog, which 
 would furnish them food for oidj a few weeks at the longest, the ques- 
 tion of starvation would soon prove a serious one. White men's cloth- 
 ing is universally worn by the tribe, who would be compelled to use 
 furs shoidd the S'lppl^' of clothes be cut ott", and these could not be 
 obtained in sufficient quantities to last any length of time. 
 
 Ka-too-nah, now calling himself " Ebbitts," after the old chief, who 
 died about two years ago, is their head chief, and exerts considerable 
 influence, not so much, indeed, though as the two "medicine men," 
 Nah-goot-klane and Kach-wan, who can be easily bribed, however, with 
 anything that is useful to them. In the event of hostilities arising, no 
 Indian allies against them could be secured in the neighboring country, 
 and the band living in the neighborhood of Cape Fox would most likely 
 unite with them. 
 
 Such an event is not probable, however, for they are not warlike, 
 though in every respect brave; have never been at war with the whites 
 (none of whom have settled in their country), and at present entertain 
 the most friendly feeling towards the white people. 
 
 Military operations could be conducted in the country all the year 
 round, and to troops thus emploj'ed, besides the usual campaign sup- 
 plies, a number of small boats should be furnished; probably the 
 best means of using a force against them, if at war, would be to send 
 infantry in boats holding from 20 to 25 men, with small Hotchkiss can- 
 non in the bows to drive them from their houses and force them into 
 the mountains, where they would be unable to secure sufficient food to 
 keep them long. A small steam launch, to overtake and capture their 
 canoes, which are as fast or even faster than small boats, would be an 
 effective auxiliary. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 61 
 
 CAPE FOX i:n^dians. 
 
 Kast-wan is the head chief of these Indians, l)oth in time of war and 
 in peace, and exerts a powerful influence over the subchiefs and the 
 entire people. At present they have no "medicine man." the old one 
 having died only a short time ago and no one yet ai)i)ointed. When 
 the services of such au individual are necessary, however, one is called 
 in from their neighbors, and his opinions are eagerly listened to and 
 his suggestions observed. The tribe numbers about 250 souls alto- 
 gether, with nearly 100 warriors, most of whom are able-bodied and 
 provided with some sort of fire-arm. The flint and percussion lock 
 musket introduced by the Hudson Bay Company is the i)attern of gun 
 most frequentlj' met with, only very few of the men having the improved 
 rifles now generally in use. Ammunition is poorly supplied, and ob- 
 tained from Fort Simpson and the trader at Boca Inlet. In event of 
 war with the United States, Fort Simpson would be the onlj^ source. 
 
 Their principal village was situated until quite recently in the imme- 
 diate neighborhood of Cape Fox, but since the establishment of a fish- 
 ing industry by white men at Boca Inlet this has been moved there, 
 only a short distance from the cannery. The distance from the village 
 to Dixon Entrance can be made by a good steamer in about four hours. 
 
 The region of country occupied by the tribe is in the southern portion 
 of Alaska, not far from the northern boundary of the British posses- 
 sions on the Pacific coast. It consists mainly of islands and head- 
 lands, with small channels intervening and intersected by numerous 
 salt-water inlets. 
 
 The country is rough and mountainous in character, with numerous 
 streams of fresh water emptying into the sea. It is very thickly covered 
 with timber; the so-called yellow cedar being found in abundance, 
 though not to the same extent as further north. The soil itself is by 
 no means fertile; it being impossible to raise any sort of produce, 
 although various kinds of grasses flourish. 
 
 Throughout the adjoining waters salmon and halibut abound in great 
 quantities, the former to such an extent as to hav^e recently attracted 
 the attention of white men, as previously stated. Various wdd animals 
 are found in this region; deer, mountain sheep, and black bears being 
 most frequently met with. These, however, are not much sought after, 
 as these Indians are almost exclusively fishermen. Thej' engage in 
 hunting to a very limited extent, and rarely venture far inland, having 
 a kind of superstitious dread of the dense forests, which they imagine 
 are peopled with strange creatures. As a rule they are industrious, 
 many being employed now by the whites, and eager to improve their con- 
 dition. Many appeals have been made for schools, the benefits of which 
 having been seen and appreciated through their intercourse with the 
 natives at Fort Simpson and vicinity, where indeed many good results 
 have been accomplished. The dwellings of this tribe are permanently 
 
62 MILTTAUY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 sitMiitod aloiii;' the salt water, and so similar in construction to those 
 used by the Tongas Indians as to require no repetition. 
 
 The principal article of food besides fish is a variety of sea-weed, 
 which is «r;ithcred •lurinf; the snninier, carefully dried in the sun, and 
 l)ressed intoslal.s and cakes. This is (;onil)ined with tish oil when eaten, 
 and not only supplies the place of our many varieties of food, but is 
 considered quite a delicacy, notwithstandiiifi' the fact that its odor alone 
 would warn a civilized indivi<lual, ami one not over-fastidious, against 
 even tasting it. Besides these articles of diet various other supplies, 
 such as are used by niiners and others out of civilization, are obtained 
 from traders. No domestic animals are found among them, except the 
 dog, which is not employed in any useful cai)acity, and as food, in the 
 event of their being obliged to abandon their usual sources, would not 
 serve them long. The style of clothes worn by the whites has been 
 universally adopted by this tribe, these articles being obtained from the 
 same sources as their ammunition and other supplies. Should these 
 sources be cut otit", no little dififlculty would be experienced in finding 
 suitable garments as a substitute. Communication overland through 
 the country is never resorted to, the only means of transportation being 
 in canoes, which are built of cedar, and not only beautifully modeled, 
 but very light and swift. These are propelled by means of paddles and 
 sails, and so skillfully as to enable these people to venture on consid- 
 erable journeys. 
 
 The feeling of these Indians toward the white people is in every respect 
 most friendly; they have never been at war with the Russian Govern- 
 ment or with our own, and hardly realize that such a thing exists. An 
 active campaign against them could be conducted all the year through 
 unassisted though by any neighboring Indians as allies, for the Tongas 
 tribe would undoubtedly unite with them. As the country differs in so 
 few particulars from that occupied by the Tongas, the only unusual cam- 
 ]>aign suj)ply, in case of war, would be likewise a number of small boats. 
 These should be sufliciently large to accommodate about 20 men and a 
 small cannon in the bows to force them from their houses, and by guard- 
 ing against an escape by water it would be difficult for them to hold out 
 long. 
 
 STICKEEN INDIAIS^S. 
 
 This tribe for many years in direct intercourse with the white people, 
 has, as is usual, not only derived many lasting benefits therefrom, 
 through a keen desire to learn and improve their condition, but on the 
 other hand many of the vices aiul corruptions of civilization have like- 
 wise been acquired. 
 
 The various whites who have entered the countrj', except perhaps 
 miners, have invariably l)een attracted by trade, so that as a protection 
 to themselves these Indians were forced to become shrewd and sharj^- 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 63 
 
 witted, which traits are very apparent in their character with only a 
 short acqnaintance. As a rule they are of a very superior intelligence, 
 and have always manifested great eagerness to acquire civilized im- 
 provements, both in the manner of living and in working. Civilized 
 clothes are generally worn, and the plain varieties of food indulged in 
 by frontiersmen accepted. 
 
 The territory which they occupy lies near the western boundary of 
 British Columbia, distant about a fourteen-hours' run from Dixon En- 
 trance. It is limited to Wrangell Island and the district of country 
 along the Stickeen Eiver, which stream has its source in British Co- 
 lumbia, and flows thence in a southwesterly direction through the 
 American ppssessions into the sea. The country is very generally 
 mountainous, and well timbered throughout, the yellow cedar flourish 
 ing luxuriantly. The soil itself is not fertile, but more so than the 
 country to tlie south, and the season too short for any except the hard- 
 ier varieties of vegetables to mature. Potatoes can be grown here, and 
 in fact are cultivated in considerable quantities by the Indians. A few 
 years ago gold was discovered near the headwaters of the Stickeen 
 River in such quantities as to attract universal attention and draw many 
 men to the vicinity. Fort Wrangell, situated on the island, and at 
 present unoccupied by troops, was the depot for supplies and the 
 starting-point for the mines. Here many prospectors, industrious and 
 otherwise, spent the winters, awaiting the approach of warm weather, 
 so that a marked impression has been left on the Indians by their pres- 
 ence. In those most susceptible, and these are largely in the majority, 
 the taste for alcoholic stimulants was not only given a great impetus, 
 but has actually become a craving. As a remedy for this, restrictions 
 were instituted against the introduction of liquor into the country, 
 which answered in a measure, but when the Indians found it impossible 
 to procure a supply they began the manufacture of a compound of their 
 own, from molasses, called " hoochenoo," which has necessitated cus 
 toms regulations against this article as well. 
 
 The principal village of the tribe adjoins Fort Wrangell, and consists 
 of a number of well-built houses. These are made of planks about 
 3 inches thick, and each plank as a rule shaped from a log by hand. 
 
 They are then set on edge and nicely fitted together, while a roof 
 of bark, with a hole for the smoke, protects the inmates from the 
 weather. The floor is of dirt, and in consequence uninjured by the fire 
 in the center, over which the simple diet of the household is cooked. 
 
 Their principal article of food is fish of various kinds, such as halibut, 
 salmon, codfish, and herring, all of wbich are found in abundance in 
 the adjacent waters. Besides these, they also employ the inner soft 
 bark of a species of cedar, large quantities of which are collected and 
 stored away for winter consumption. Many of the plainer articles of 
 food, such as are consumed by frontiersmen, are sold them by traders, 
 as stated before. 
 
64 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 The tribe mi iiibera about 800 souls altogetlier, with ]»robably 300 men 
 who wouhl be cnpabh' of bcariiifj^ arms in thein'cnt of an universal out- 
 break. The tire-arms which they use are generally the old Lludsou Bay 
 musket, but many are supplied with the modern repeating ritlt^s, though 
 not of the latest ])atteins. The number of these imi)roved rifles found 
 among this tribe is far greater than any other along this i)art of the 
 Territory on account of their long intercourse with miners and the close 
 l)roximity of the Cassiar mines, where many of the Indians were em- 
 ployed and paid, directly and indirectly, with arms. 
 
 In 187G an Indian from Fort Simpson started a school at Wrangell 
 and very soon gathered about him almost 100 pui)ils. At this time the 
 post was occupied, and a soldier, impressed with the eagerness of the 
 l)eople to learn, made an appeal for a competent teacher^ This, after 
 some delay, was responded to, and a good school opened shortly after- 
 wards, which has continued to prosper and increase in average attend- 
 ance to such an extent as to require the services of two or three addi- 
 tional teachers. Many good results are manifest, through the influence 
 of the school and tyachers, for in many cases the young girls have been 
 taken away from their mothers, who, according to their cnstoms, con- 
 sider them an article of trade, and frequently sold them to white men. 
 Cleanliness, a virtue so little thought of and cultivated by most Indians, 
 has likewise been instilled into the minds of the attendants by the same 
 means. 
 
 The tribe is not warlike, and at present is very friendly toward the 
 whites, although a number of years ago they captured a trading schooner 
 and murdered the crew. A general outbreak against the whites has never 
 occurred, and the only difficulties have been occasioned either through 
 disagreements in matters of trade or on account of a too free indulgence 
 in liquor. 
 
 The presence of a gun-boat has always inspired them with great awe, 
 and they have the greatest respect for weapons of warfare sui)erior to 
 those employed by themselves. In the event of actual hostilities boats 
 of some description would be necessary, as they are very generally pro- 
 vided with large and well-constructed canoes, and are thorough masters 
 in the art of navigating them. No refuge could be obtained away from 
 the sea- shore where they could secure sufhcient food and other necessi- 
 ties for existence, so that a campaign against them would in consequence 
 be very near, if not wholly, on the water. In regard to the name of this 
 tribe and river, several who have had occasion to mention them in writing, 
 have seen fit to adopt different ways of spelling, and some go so far as to 
 spell the name of the river different from that of the tribe, although the 
 l)ronunciation in no case is affected. It is variously written as Stakhin, 
 Stakhine, Stikine, and Stickeen, the last being adopted here as giving 
 the most exact idea of the sound. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 65 
 
 SITKA INDIAIN^S. 
 
 Sitka or New Archangel, as it was called by the Ivussians before the 
 purchase of the territory by our Goveruiiieut, coutaiued about 1,000 
 iuhabitants, one third of whom were Russians. It was then the great 
 center of trade and commerce for the country, but since the transfer of 
 the fur interests to Americans the place has been abandoned as a 
 prominent commercial point, it is situated on the western side of Bar. 
 anoif Island in a picturesque harbor leading out to the open sea, distaiit 
 about fifteen hours' run from Dixou Entrance by the outside passage 
 and from twenty-five to thirty hours by the Inland Passage through 
 Peril Straits. 
 
 These Indians, who have given their name to the town and harbor, 
 have their principal village adjoining the town, and, like their brethren 
 who live further south, have always given evidence of a sui)erior intel- 
 ligence and independence. They are naturally indolent, however, and 
 fond of dress, and exert themselves to hunt and trade in order to gratify 
 this fancy. Their houses, as a rule, are well and 'substantially con- 
 structed of logs, and through the influence and suggestions of different 
 naval officers, of late the sanitary condition of the surroundings has 
 been much imi^roved by the digging of gutters, which carry off the ac- 
 cumulating filth and water. At first this tribe was opposed to the 
 change of governments, as Sitka became immediately quite insignificant, 
 but they were soon afterwards reconciled and have been since very 
 friendly. 
 
 Having- the Russians for so long a time in such close proximity has 
 left its impress on this people in several ways. There were intermar- 
 riages, and the offspring of these unions have generally remained in the 
 country, so that now there is a very marked trace of Russian blood 
 throughout the tribe. As these foreigners were not always the very 
 best class of citizens, the manners, customs, and habits acquired of them 
 by the natives are not those to be most admired. On the other hand, 
 schools were established very earl}' in this century, but did not amount 
 to much until 1820, when they were taken in charge by a naval oflicer, 
 who superintended them for fifteen years. After this they became very 
 efficient, under a creole by the name of Etolen. All educational ad van 
 tages were taken away at the time of the Russian exodus, and for about 
 ten years afterwards no attention was given to the subject; in fact it 
 was not until 1880 that a school was established on a firm basis. This 
 has continued to prosper, and now, as a better means of securing- at- 
 tendance and removing- the boys from bad influence at home, a boarding 
 department has been established. The tribe numbers now about 1,000 
 souls in all, of whom about 150 are capable of bearing arms in case of 
 a general disagreement. They are, however, not warlike in disposition, 
 though brave enough when occasion arises, and like all their neighbors, 
 have acquired an inordinate taste for alcohol in isouie shape or other. 
 S. Ex. 2 5 
 
66 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 lletbrc the strict regulations against the introduction of li(inor were in- 
 stituted, no event eonld be celebrated, no ceremony coniiilete, or e.\[)e- 
 dition undertaken without tiie interested party first indulging in such 
 (juantities of liciuor as to render the party wholly unfit for anything. 
 The native drink of '' hooehenoo" supplied the necessary stimulation 
 tor some time after the (lustoms regulations were instituted, but as the 
 principal ferments for the manufacture of this have recently been pro- 
 hibited as well, drunkenness is not so prevalent. As a result of this 
 inclination and their long intercourse with traders as well, honor is not 
 considered an attribute sufliciently worthy of cultivation, and, indeed, 
 never enters into the mind of most of them. No insult can be offered 
 them so deadly that cannot be atoned for by a pecuniary recompense 
 of some nature. 
 
 The tiiearms employed l)y them are as a rule the same as those men- 
 tioned before, namely, the old Hudson Bay Company muskets, some 
 Hint and some percussion, Avith very few improved rifles. The supply 
 of ammunition, obtained from traders, is poor in quality and in quantity, 
 and, as it is only purchased when needed, would be entirely cut off in 
 the event of war with this country, except, perhaps, by making the 
 journey to Fort Simpson. This source could hardly be taken into ac- 
 count, however, as the distance is considerable, and their only means 
 of transportation is by canoes, which, indeed, are large, well built, and 
 ably managed by their owners. 
 
 Civilized clothes, except, i)erhaps, shoes, are worn by this tribe, and 
 they likewise purchase many articles of food from traders. Fish is their 
 principal food, halibut, cod, and herring being found abundantly, the 
 last in such quantities as to be secured by means of a simple implement 
 similar to a rake. They merely whip the water with this and rarely 
 fail securing a fish on every jirong. The countrj' adjoining does not 
 differ much from that already spoken of, being a net-work of islands 
 with salt water channels and inlets intervening. It is generally mount- 
 ainous and thickly covered with timber, and produces only the hardier 
 varieties of vegetables and other produce. 
 
 The principal animals hunted are deer, mountain sheep, and mountain 
 goat, the horns of which furnish them material for the manufacture of 
 ladles and sjjoous, which are oftentimes very curiously carved, while 
 the wool affords them material for making blankets. 
 
 The influence and poi)ularity of a chief among these Indians dei)ends 
 largely on his liberality, it being a custom among them to give what is 
 known as "potlatch" when an individual desires to secure favor. This 
 is a kind offcast where each guest receives a present, and as much as $500 
 worth of blankets are known to have been distributed at such a gather- 
 ing. 
 
 Many outbreaks have been threatened by this tribe, arising mainly 
 through the influence of liquor and the natural viciousness of some in- 
 fluential man with the idea of bettering his condition. In 1877, after 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 67 
 
 the witlulrawal of the troops, cousulerable excitement was occasioned 
 by the threats of a chief, known as "Sitka Jack," but the appearance 
 of a gnn-boat quieted this without any Woodshed. As friendship, un- 
 accompanied by any prospect of reward, is by no means a characteristic 
 trait of these Indians, bribes of some kind judiciously made would at 
 least prevent the neighboring tribes joining as allies, provided they did 
 not feel aggrieved themselves, and perhaps secure them as a valuable 
 aid to the whites. 
 
 The medicine man, or " shaman," as he is more generally called, exerts 
 a strong influence with the people, and as his skill is exerted more es- 
 pecially against evil spirits, and in determining iniporLant questions, 
 Thau in curing disease, it would be a great aid, in the event of war, if 
 he could be inspired by a spirit who would at least not be an enemy of 
 the white people. This tribe of Indians have always had the reputation 
 of being the worst of all the Thlinkets, and although it has never en- 
 gaged actively against the Americans as a tribe, nevertheless, to the 
 Eussians, it was for a long time a discordant element and the cause of 
 many bloody feuds. The natives looked with hostility upon the erec-^ 
 tion of the lirst permanent post in this region. Fort Archangel Gabriel,, 
 near the present site of Sitka, and in less than two years afterwards 
 called a council on one of the islands for the purpose of devising means 
 of driving out the Eussians. 
 
 In May, 1802, the fort was attacked, the inmates driven out, and over 
 thirty people killed. The remainder took to the woods and were only 
 saved by the opportune arrival of an English vessel. Later in this 
 same year many Aleuts and Eussians were attacked in one of the nu- 
 merous bays and only the commander and some few Aleuts escaped. 
 A sensational story is told, partly true, no doubt, of the Indians forti- 
 fying themselves on a rock, the present site of Sitka, defending it 
 with two cannon previously captured, and only evacuating it, without 
 surrendering, however, after exhausting their supply of ammunition. 
 This occurred in 1804, and the Indians are said to have killed a num- 
 ber of dogs and even infants to prevent them giving an alarm, and be- 
 fore leaving their position succeeded in killing and wounding many 
 Eussians. This hostile feeling was very embarrassing to the new set- 
 tlers, not only on account of their being constantly in imminent danger 
 of losing" their lives, but the natives also could not be induced to trade 
 and even maintained this determination until about 1815, after which a 
 more friendly feeling arose. As the country occujiied by these Indians 
 is so similar to that previously mentioned, the character of a campaign 
 and the unusual supplies needed would be essentially the same, and 
 as there are likewise very few trails inland such a campaign would un- 
 doubtedly be near, if not on, the water. 
 
6H MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 KOOTZNAIIOO INDIAX8. 
 
 In regard to the spelling and pronnnciation of the name of this tribe 
 various ways are employe*!, arising from a ditt'ereuee in the interpreta- 
 tion of the sound by different individuals, owing to the extreme diffi- 
 culty of learning the language. It has been variously spelled Kootz- 
 iiahoo, Koutznou, Kootznoo, and Kooshnoo, which, in almost each 
 case, would convey nearly the same sound. The tribe is divided into 
 two bands, the Ivootznahoos proiier and the NeltoosUins, each of which 
 is com])Osed of many families, and occupies a separate village on the 
 western shore of Admiralty Island between Point Gardner and Point 
 Eetreat. The Kootznahoos have their principal village near Kootznese 
 Head, at the mouth of Hood's Inlet, while tin' Neltooskins, about two 
 hundred and fifty in number, live about 12 miles south of this. The 
 country, like that i)reviously described, is mountainous and rough, 
 thickly covered with timber, and surrounded in every direction by 
 water. The run from Dixon Entrance could be made by a moderately 
 fast steamer, in from eighteen to twenty hours. This region abounds 
 in various kinds of game, the ones principally hunted by the natives 
 being deer and bears. The soil is generally moist, thickly covered with 
 moss, and not especially adapted to the cultivation of the ordinary 
 garden produce, notwithstanding which, however, the Indians raise 
 considerable quantities of potatoes and turnips. 
 
 The houses occupied by them are built permanently near the water's 
 edge, of logs and hewn timber. Most of them are provided with cel- 
 lars, and, as a rule, are absolutely bullet proof, Init would necessarily 
 be abandoned if the attacking force were provided with the lightest 
 forms of artiller}-. Regular streets, lanes, and alleys separate the 
 different houses, which are generally surrounded by small gardens, 
 planted in well heaped-up rows, to allow of ample drainage, as the rain- 
 fall in this region is very considerable. 
 
 Strips of bark are stretched across from the fence on each side so as 
 to present the appearance of a net or snare to the ravens, which are very 
 numerous and, unless some such device is resorted to, prove very de- 
 structive to anything like a garden. The adjoining waters abound in 
 many varieties of tish, those found in greatest abundance being galmon, 
 halibut, cod, and herring*. At Killisnoo quite an extensive establish- 
 ment is in operation for the curing and packing of cod and herring-, and 
 has not only proved a pecuniary success to the originators, but has given 
 the Indians emi)loyment, and has thrown them more intimately in con 
 uection with the white people. These Indians have seen and appre- 
 ciated the advantages of education, and have made numerous requests 
 for the establishment of a school in their neighborhood, but up to this 
 time one has not been opened. 
 
 As a rule they are industrious and willing to work, although very 
 prone to dictate their own terms of pay, and especially apt to stop work 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 69 
 
 when injiulicionsly paid beforeliaiid or when they have tlieir employ- 
 ers at a disadvantage and see an opportunity of improving the terms. 
 Their ideas of anything lilce a business contract, notwithstanding a 
 pledge be given, are very crude indeed. 
 
 Besides furnishing them food, they have to rely on the water for com- 
 munication with tlieir neighbors, through the medium of their large 
 and well built canoes, as there are very few trails inland, and these are 
 not made use of except perhaps by hunting parties. The various kinds 
 of fish already meutioned, grease and oil obtained therefrom, pressed 
 seaweed, the inner bark of the spruce and a certain edible root, together 
 with potatoes, which they raise, are their chief articles of food, inde- 
 pendent of the white people ; but they also rely on the trading stores 
 for various other articles. Ample provision is made for the long win- 
 ters by securing quantities of these same articles which are stored up in 
 their houses. The clothes which thej' wear are such as are used by the 
 whites and are universally preferred to those made of skins, notwith- 
 standing the fact of their being well versed in the art of tanning, and 
 could manage to get along in this way, though indifferently, in the event 
 of their supply being cut off. 
 
 The tribe numbers from GOO to 800 souls, with from 250 to 300 men 
 who could be considered as able-bodied. The old flint and percussion 
 lock musket of the Hudson Bay Company is the pattern of gun most 
 generally in use, together with quite a number of percussion revolvers 
 and very few, if any, magazine rifles. Ammunition, as well as the va- 
 rious other useful articles which they buy, is obtained from Killisnoo, 
 which place would be shut off should trouble occur with this Govern- 
 ment, and then their nearest source would be at Fort Simpson. Each 
 of the two subdivisions of the tribe has a separate chief, Kanalkoo 
 being the head chief of the Kootznahoos, over whom he has not a great 
 deal of influence, while Kahchutka occupies the same position among 
 the Neltooskins, who, with the subchiefs as well, hav^e great respect for 
 his opinions and suggestions. In the event of hostilities these two 
 bands would in all probability unite, although they might not, as a <1iffi- 
 culty occurred between them some twenty years ago, since which time 
 there has not been the greatest friendship manifested. The head chiefs 
 in such an event might likewise be changed, for, in a quarrel which oc- 
 curred a few years ago with the Stickeens, the tribe was led by a Kootz- 
 nahoo woman, known as " Feather Legs." 
 
 In regard to the medicine men, each band has one or two, and their 
 influence, though almost lost among the Kootznahoos proper, is very 
 strong with the Neltooskins. These shamans are supposed to be in- 
 spired, but nevertheless are essentially mortal, and resemble the rest 
 of the tribe so closely that a well-directed bribe, should occasion occur, 
 would not fail in producing happy results. 
 
 This tribe of Indians, as a distinct band, have never been at war with 
 the Russian Grovernment, and have had but one serious difficulty with 
 
70 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 the United States, which liappoju'd a little over a year ago. Several of 
 the men were ein])l()ye«l by the Northwest Trading Company on a small 
 steam launch in catching whales, and one man was killed by the acciden- 
 tal discharge of a bomb-gun, used for hurling the lauce. The Indians, 
 instigated by a woman, it is said, saw in this an oj^portunit}' of gratify- 
 ing their avarice, and immediately demanded two hundred l)Iankets as 
 a consolation for their giief and recompense for the death of this mem- 
 ber, and, iu order to make their demand more emphatic, took forcible 
 possession of two white men, held them as hostages, and threatened 
 to kill them unless their demands were coni])lied with. These claims 
 Avere, of course, considered absurd in every respect, aud the Indians 
 were informed that their villages would be destroyed unless the men 
 were given up. This threat was looked upon in the light of a joke l)y 
 the tribe, who had no real appreciation of the character of a gun-boat 
 and the guns with which one is ordinarily provided, consequently they 
 showed no inclination at all to comply. A small tug-boat was then 
 e(iuipped with a crew and arms from a Government vessel, aud soon 
 afterwards opened fire ui)on the village. At first the shots were well 
 directed entirely over the houses, so as to allow the occupants ample 
 time to escape, after which several of the houses were destroyed, more 
 for the moral effect than from any desire to injure their property. 
 After this the Indians were only too glad to listen to reason, and not- 
 withstanding the numy adverse criticisms and slurs cast ui)on the ])ro- 
 ceeding by numerous papers throughout the country, the general result, 
 as attested by the white men in the neighboring country-, has proved 
 most salutary. 
 
 The Indians, without sustaining any loss of life or serious loss of 
 l)roi)erty, which would necessarily have occasioned a certain amount 
 of bitterness, now ap])reciate fully what the white people are capable 
 of accomplishing against them, and since that time have not only con- 
 ducted themselves more respectfully, but also now entertain a higher 
 rega)d and a more friendly feeling toward the Government and the 
 white men living in the country. 
 
 At this time the tribe threatened to abandon their houses and stores 
 and retreat inland, but manifested no tendency to carry it into eflect, 
 which shows that such a proceeding was at least thought of, and at 
 the same time its dilticulties fully appreciated. Xone of the neighbor- 
 ing tribes joined them in this difficulty, and, iu all probability, would 
 not do so should occasion occur again, and further, would not unite 
 with the whites as allies unless sufficient inducement were ottered iu 
 the way of reward. Military operations can be conducted all the year 
 through by water, and as all their belongings are situated so near the 
 sea, a campaign against them, to be successful, would undoubtedly re- 
 quire a number of boats as an unusual campaign supply. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 71 
 
 IIOOXAH INDIANS. 
 
 This tribe of ludiaus, whose name is variously spelled Hoonah, 
 Hiiima, Hoonyah, aud ITooueak, uunibers in all from 000 to 800 souls, 
 with from 250 to 300 so called- warriors. 
 
 They have not been thrown so intimately with white men as many of 
 the other tribes of this large family, but through intercourse with other 
 Indians aud a few traders, who have been in the neighboring- country 
 for many years, civilized improvements in manners and customs have 
 been verj^ generally acquired. The^^ are naturally bright, aud from 
 their long experience in matters of trade have become very shrewd ; 
 combiuiug this quick Avit with an entire lack of scruple, a merchant 
 with no lack of business tact would find himself sadly worsted in a 
 trade unless acquainted with their character. In bringing about a trade 
 all sorts of devices are employed to enhance the value of their furs, and 
 it is said that skins of small value have even been dyed so as to repre- 
 sent a more valuable variety of the same animal. As a rule, they are 
 quite industrious aud willing to work for the whites, if paid sufficiently 
 well to suit their own ideas of justice, but if i^rovided with all the 
 necessary comforts in the way of food and clothiugthey are not greatly 
 distressed on being out of employment. During the summer of 1881 a 
 school was established at their principal village, which was immediately 
 well attended, its advantages being fully appreciated by the older 
 members of the tribe, who had made many requests for one previous to 
 this time. The tribe is separated into two villages, the larger of which 
 is situated on the northeastern shore of Chicagoff Island, at Port Fred- 
 erick, while the smaller is on the mainland directly opposite. This 
 point is distant from Dixon Entrance a run of about twenty-five hours 
 Their houses are well built of roughly hewn timber, near the water's edge- 
 aud, as a rule, substantial enough to prevent the passage of bullets, 
 but would necessarily have to be abandoned should any weapons carry- 
 ing larger missiles be used against them. The character of the country 
 does not differ from that further south, being mountainous near the 
 water and hilly inland. It is everywhere thickly covered Mith timber, 
 and generally unproductive unless great labor be expended in clearing 
 and draining. The Indians, however, do cultivate gardens and raise 
 considerable quantities of potatoes, which vegetable holds a very im- 
 portant place among them as an article of food. Deer and bears are 
 found throughout the country, and are hunted for their skins aud meat- 
 Besides this game, their chief reliance for food, except what they obtain 
 from traders, is in fisli, cod, herring, halibut, aud salmon being found 
 iu abundance. Many seals are also caught in the adjacent waters, the 
 flesh of which is likewise used as food. The fire-arms found among them 
 are the Hudson Bay Company muskets, flint and percussion lock, also 
 some percussion pistols of a very old pattern, but very few improved 
 
72 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 breech -load iiiii lillcs. Aiiiiiiuiiiti(tii, toiii'tlicr witli otlior ii'-^oful articles, 
 Itotli of food and laiiiu'iit, is obtained at Killisnoo, which source in the 
 event of war with this (lovernaieiit would be denied them, and as there 
 is no other point near at hand it would be very dillicult for them to tind 
 another source. Traders furnish them with material for their clothes, 
 which are, in ])attern and kind, such as are worn by white men and 
 only i)urchased when needed, so that, like their ammunition, would be 
 cut otf in the event of hostilities. Wealth among them is not reckoned 
 in dollars and cents, but according to the number of blankets an in- 
 <lividual possesses, and as these are often bought and stored away, 
 would in consecjuence prove of great service could they manage to pre- 
 serve them from harm during a diiticulty of any kind. 
 
 Communication by laud is rarely resorted to, on account of the char- 
 acter of the country and the paucity of trails, so that wheu they have 
 occasion to make any journeys at all their main reliance is in their 
 canoes. As with all the other Thlinket tribes the custom of holding 
 slaves was formerly very much in vogue, but is now kept up to a very 
 limited extent on account of the iutiuence brought to bear against it by 
 the whites and the difficulty of obtaining them. Formerly the struggles 
 between the neighboring tribes being of such frequent occurrence, the 
 unfortunate captives furnished sutticient numbers, but as these difficul- 
 ties rarely ever occur at the present time, wherever the custom is main- 
 tained, slaves are secured by trade. This method was employed to a large 
 extent, too, as testified by the Indians found among them from tribes 
 far removed. In former times these slaves had very few rights; they 
 could not acquire property or even marry without the consent of their 
 masters, and were distinguished from free men by the absence of cer- 
 tain ornaments generally worn by the tribe. At certain festivals it was 
 the custom to make human sacrifices, the victims for which were gen- 
 erally selected from among the old and feeble slaves, as the younger 
 ones were considered too valuable, and although favorites were often 
 brought forward, yet in almost every instance were altbrded an opportu- 
 nity to escape, and after the festival was over could return without fear of 
 being punished. At the present time such sacrifices are rarely, if ever, 
 made, and slaves enjoy almost the same privileges as others of the tribe. 
 
 Kensetl is the head chief of the tribe and exerts a powerful influence, 
 not only over the subchiefs but the entire people. His feeling towards 
 the whites in general is very friendly, and especially so toward the very 
 few who live in the country. These Indians have never been at war 
 with the Kussian Government or with our own, but some time in 18G0 
 they are said to have captured a steamer belonging to the Hudson Bay 
 Company. 
 
 In time of war the two villages mentioned before would unite together 
 against an opposing force, and although there are no Indians in the 
 neighborhood who would be liable to unite with them, yet, on the other 
 hand, would not join the whites, as allies against them, unless suffi- 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 75 
 
 cient prospect of reward be ottered. A cainpaif;ii conld be carried on 
 in this section all the year round, altbongli many difficulties and hard- 
 ships would be experienced on account of the cold winters. Consider- 
 ing the fact of their supply of food being obtained chiefly from the sea, 
 and their homes being- almost at the water's edge since the earliest 
 times, they would experience great difficulty in sustaining themselves if 
 compelled to abandon their iiouses, consequently would not retreat in- 
 land, only as a very last resort. Their canoes, in an event of this kind, 
 would be of great service to them, so that a number of small boats 
 would be absolutely indispensable as an unusual campaign supply. 
 
 AUK INDIANS. 
 
 A short time ago very good prospects of gold were discovered on 
 Douglas Island, situated directly opposite the winter village of this 
 tribe, which created the usual excitement in such cases, and served to 
 bring into the neighborhood the same class of men who ordinarily re- 
 spond to rumors an:l reports of like nature. Some of these men are, of 
 course, hard-working, sober, and industrious, but the majority, as a rule, 
 are idle, visionary, and devoid of principle, and being disinclined to 
 work are thrown more intimately with the residents. Such was the 
 case, in this instance, with these Indians. Living very near at hand 
 and being attracted still nearer by the presence of the whites, they had 
 nothing to do except to provide for the absolute necessities of life, and 
 besides were not disinclined or in any way slow in imitating the habits 
 of the whites; so that among other things the desire for alcohol, though 
 perhaps not initiated, was quickly nourished, and many disturbances 
 between individuals occurred in consequence. Gold was not obtained 
 in the large quantities at first anticipated, so that many of the men re- 
 turned. But the effect of their presence is very apparent on the tribe ; 
 some remained, however, and still occupy themselves in mining. The 
 rush of people to this quarter of course called attention to the Indians 
 living near at hand, so that an effort was made, in the right direction, 
 to improve their condition by opening a school, which, however, has not 
 yet been permanently established. Douglas Island is in the northeast- 
 ern extremity of the Alexander Archipelago, separated from the main- 
 land by a narrow salt-water channel, and distant from Dixon Entrance 
 a run of about thirty hours. 
 
 A small town was established at the time of the gold excitement 
 which now affords these Indians a convenient place to obtain the useful 
 articles which traders generally offer for sale. 
 
 The country surrounding is mountainous near the water, well covered 
 with timber, and about as productive as that situated to the south and 
 already spoken of. It is capable of cultivation, in a measure, with con- 
 siderable care and labor, so that the hardier vegetables only do well. 
 
 Game of various kinds, such as deer, bears, both black and grizzly, 
 
74 MILITARY RSCONNAISSJLNCE IX ALASKA. 
 
 iiioiinlain slici']) and iiioniitaiii ^oats, is found in moderate quantity 
 tlironiiliout tliis section, and is lumted by the Indians for meat and skins. 
 The tribe, ho\ve\er, is more inelined to yain a living by lishiny, and 
 indeed do depend on the water for most of their food, as many varieties 
 of tish are eaught in the adjoining waters. Salmon, halibut, and cod 
 abound in large quantities, and are the ]>rineii)al articles of diet. 
 
 On account of the few trails running through the country, long 
 Journeys into the interior are rarely* ever undertaken, and when occa- 
 sion arises to communicate with any neighboring i>laces, canoes furnish 
 them their only means of transportation. These are built well and 
 strong, and of various sizes, the largest being capable of carrying two 
 or three tous. A canoe, in fact, almost takes the place of some one of 
 the domestic animals which are so useful to other tribes of Indians, and 
 to civilized races. Xo horses, cows, or other animals, except the dog, 
 are found among tliem, and this last-named animal is employed in no 
 useful way, except ])erliaps in hunting. As an article of food, were 
 they deprived of their usual supply, it would uot serve them for any 
 length of time, so can hardly be regarded as in any way indispensable. 
 
 The tribe, whose name is variously spelled Auk and Awk, is divided 
 into numerous separate families, each with its subchief, and numbers 
 in all about 700 souls. Of these, from 200 to 250 are cai)able of bearing 
 arms, and most of them are provided with some sort of gun, bows and 
 arrows having long since fallen into disuse. The old style of musket 
 formerly sold by the Hudson Bay Company is almost the only pattern 
 of gun found among them, besides a few cap revolvers, and perhaps 
 three or four improved rities. The main winter village, as stated 
 before, was formerly on the mainland 7 miles distant from Juneau, but 
 as many of the Indians have found employment among the whites, a 
 considerable number now live in the neighborhood of the town. Their 
 houses, as a rule, arawell and substantially built, many being provided 
 with windows, and except for the extremely uncleanly condition which 
 usually abounds would be far from uncomfortable. 
 
 Ammunition and the plainer arti(;les of food, such as ilour, meal of 
 various kinds, tea, cotiee, sugar, etc., are obtained from traders near at 
 hand, which sources would necessarily be denied them in the event of 
 trouble, unless they took forcible possession of the stores at the very 
 commencement of any difficulty. 
 
 The head chief and two or three medicine men of the tribe exert con- 
 siderable intluence over the people, and are listened to with attention 
 and respect when a difficulty of any sort occurs. They have not, how- 
 ever, the interests of the tribe so nuich at heart as to be utterly re- 
 gardless of the value of presents, especially if ai)plied judiciously for 
 their individual use. Their feeling, as well as that of the entire tribe, 
 is at present very friendly towards the whites living in the country, and 
 instead of manifesting any jealousy at the approach of strangers seem 
 very much pleased to have them come in. No time is mentioned of 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 75 
 
 their ever being at war with the lliissians, and uo serious difficulty has 
 occurred with the Uuited States, the ouly disturbances arisiug beiug 
 between individuals as a rule, and generally growing out of a too free 
 indulgence in some preparation of alcohol. In the event of actual war- 
 fare there are no Indian tribes in the neighborhood who would unite 
 with this people, unless they themselves happened to be ottended, nor 
 are there any who would join the whites as allies unless sufficient com- 
 pensation be offered for their services, and then they wouhl be of doubt- 
 ful value, as all of the adjoining tribes in this section of country live on 
 very friendly terms. There are enough white men in the country to 
 make a very firm and determined resistance against a general outbreak, 
 and there are said to be one hundred Springfield rifles at Juneau, de- 
 posited by the Uuited State Treasury Department, which would neces- 
 sarily be of great service. A campaign could be carried on in the 
 country all the year round, but many hardships would be experienced 
 on account of the cold. Such a campaign should be provided with 
 boats, as the Indians would keep to the water as long as possible, and 
 would only retreat inland as a very last resort ; for, unless able to carry 
 with them supplies of dried fish, &c., they would experience the great- 
 est difficulty in existing, especially so if in the winter time. 
 
 CHILKAT IXDIAXS. 
 
 The name of this tribe is variously spelled, but as regards the true 
 way, it would be very hard to give a decided opinion, or claim one as 
 more correct than any other ; for, in that case, the same idea of the true 
 pronunciation might not be conveyed to different individuals. A fair 
 idea of the sound is given in the orthography used at the beginning of 
 this desciiption, but various other methods besides are in use, such as 
 Chilcot, Chilcat, Chilkaht, and Chilcate. These Indians, until a com- 
 l>aratively recent date, have kept themselves away from any civilizing 
 influences, and on account of the ill-feeling which they have always ex- 
 pressed toward white men entering the country, have always been re- 
 garded as extremely independent and warlike, on account of their 
 leading a more active life, and venturing inland on long journeys. They 
 are undoubtedly more warlike in their character than others of the same 
 family, who have always lived entirely along the water's edge ; and 
 this accounts in part for their unfriendly feeling ; but the fear of having 
 their trade with the interior Indians interfered with was the prominent 
 reason for their behavior. As traders they are equal in every respect 
 to civilized men, and as honesty is by no means a prominent or charac- 
 teristic trait among them, to deal with them successfully requires the 
 closest attention. Trade with them has always been eagerly sought 
 after by white men, as they are by far the wealthiest of all these In- 
 dians previously described, and through their great energy have the 
 best furs to dispose of. Formerly all trade between the whites on the 
 
76 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 coast and tlic Indians living' in tlie interior had to be conducted tlirough 
 this tribe, as they wonhl not allow white men to venture inland ov^er 
 their trails, which were the only ones, nor woidd they allow the interior 
 natives to even come to the sea-coast. In this way they had a com- 
 plete and absolute monopoly of the trade, and could dictate almost any 
 terms they chose to both parties. Only a few years ago a party of 
 pi'osi)ectors started out from Sitka, and desiring to go into the interior 
 toward the headwaters of some of the numerous rivers, were forbidden 
 to proceed, and had they persisted would nndoubtedly have been sub- 
 ject to insults, if not to positive injury. Recently, however, many 
 whites have settled directly in the country, and although very few if 
 any have made any journeys inland for trading purposes, still many 
 miners have gone over the trails, being even aided by the tribe ; and the 
 so called " Stick" Indians of the interior are seen in the villages near 
 the trading stores. 
 
 This change of feeling was due probably to the establishment of dif- 
 ferent industries in the country by the whites, thus giving the Indians 
 a less laborious but at the same time as lucrative an employment, and 
 the gradual breaking up of the monopoly of trade. This trade with the 
 interior is not yet abandoned, however, as these Indians still continue to 
 make their Journeys of fifteen to twenty days' duration, going up to the 
 very head of navigation in their canoes, then strapping the trading ma- 
 terial on their backs, and walking until water is reached on the eastern 
 slope of the divide. Here again they use rafts and canoes to carry 
 them to the different villages, and come back loaded with furs. As a 
 rule they are somewhat below the average height, and generally of a 
 frail build; yet with all this they carry a load of 100 pounds without 
 difficulty, and travel over 15 miles during the day. In disposition they 
 are cheerful, being generally fond of Jokes, especially so when directed 
 against a single member. They are very avaricious and selfish, even 
 among themselves, no favor being done for each other without sufficient 
 remuneration be made. The territory which they occupy is situated 
 in the extreme northeastern extremity of the Alexander Archipelago. 
 It is on the mainland and at the head of a long salt water inlet called 
 Lynn Channel. This point is distant from Dixon Entrance, for a mod- 
 erately fast steamer, a run of about thirty-five or forty hours. Xear 
 the head of Lynn Channel several small streams find an outlet in the 
 sea, and along these streams were formerly built the permanent villages 
 of the tribe. 
 
 Since the arrival of whites among them many of the Indians, as is 
 usually the case, have moved their houses near the trading stores, &c., 
 so as to be more conveniently situated, being employed in many differ- 
 ent capacities by the white men. 
 
 During the past year two salmon canningestablishments were started at 
 Pyramid Harbor, situated near the head of the channel, and a great num- 
 ber of the Indians, though not yet employed in the more skilled branches 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 77 
 
 of this indastry, have found work of various kiuds. They caubardly be 
 considered as faithful workers, for they resort to every possible phiu to 
 lessen the quantity of work, and at tiie same time command the same 
 reward ; and have been known to steal wood after selling it, and then 
 disi)ose of the same again as a new lot. 
 
 The surrounding" country is very mountainous near the sea and hilly 
 inland ; everywhere thickly covered with timber, and as a rule very 
 moist, so that in order to cultivate any gardens at all great labor has to 
 be expended in clearing and draining; with all the labor only the few 
 common and hardy varieties of vegetables can be raised, owing to the 
 short season of warm and dry weather. Considerable game is found 
 throughout this region, such as deer, bears, and mountain sheep, and 
 are hunted by the Indians not only for their meat but for their skins as 
 well. From the wool of the mountain sheep very handsome blankets are 
 made b^' the women of the tribe, which, besides being warm and com- 
 fortable, are dj^ed in bright colors and prove very attractive to the eye. 
 This art is uot peculiar to this tribe alone, but they are said to be much 
 more expert, not only in the manufacture of these, but in carving and 
 working in silver, than many of the other branches of this family. Va- 
 rious kinds of fish are found in considerable quantities in the adjoining 
 waters, salmon being caught in such quantities as to have attracted the 
 attention of white men as stated before, though the venture has not, as 
 yet, proved entirely successfull. Trading stores are in operation at 
 these places, however, so that the tribe has every opportunity of pro- 
 viding itself with the various useful and necessary articles, both of food 
 and clothes. 
 
 The supply of ammunition and the many other articles obtained in 
 trade are secured from the stores at Pyramid Harbor, which sources 
 would be denied them in the event of an outbreak against this Govern- 
 ment. Civilized clothes have been universally adopted by these people, 
 who as a rule buy the material and then cut out the different garments 
 themselves. Should they be denied the oj^portuuity of securing their 
 usual supply of cloth, very little inconvenience would be experienced 
 after a little time, as they have an abundance of furs and are masters 
 in the art of tanning; and besides, many of the different members of 
 the tribe reckon their wealth by the great number of blankets which 
 they have stored away and could make use of in an emergency. 
 
 As regards communication between neighboring places, these Indians, 
 though thoroughly versed in the art of building and managing their 
 canoes, do not depend so much upon them for transportation as the other 
 tribes previously mentioned, on account of their journeys taking them 
 inland, where other means have necessarily to be employed. The dog- 
 is their only domestic animal, and besides being useful in hunting is 
 occasionally made use of as a pack animal, though by no means to such 
 an extent as among the more northern tribes. The trails which they 
 make use of in these journeys already spoken of, are uot very well 
 
78 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 iiKirki'd or l)y any means free from obstacles, so that in the transfer of 
 a coiisidfrabk' number of men with their belon<jinfjs a fjaide vronhl bo 
 needed, and considerable woik be recpiired in improvirif; the way. As 
 many or all of them cross quite a hi<j;]i ranjj^e of mountains, a ])ortion ot 
 the distance is covered with more or less snow all the year around, which 
 chanp:es in amount according' to the season of the year; consecjuentiy 
 only after makinj;- several trips at the ditferent jteriods is one capable 
 of stating exactly where the best road is to be found. These Indians 
 are divided into two separate branches, as it were, with a distinct chief 
 over each, but in manners, customs, habits, &c., are exactly alike, and 
 in time of war would both unite against an opposing force. The Chilkats 
 jiroper have three permanent villages, which are situated in the imme- 
 diate neighborhood of Pyramid lIarl)or and at no great distance from 
 each other. The Chilkoots, the other division of the tribe, have one 
 village situated permanentlj^ in the Chilkoot Inlet, which is a continu- 
 ation of Lynn Channel, and aftbrds ample water for the accommodation 
 of very large steamers even. Several of these villages are built near 
 a Hat shore, and although the ebb and tiow of the tide is not excessive, 
 yet at low water an approach is impossible except for canoes of the very 
 lightest draught. This is a wise i)rovision whether brought about with a 
 motive or not, for the shallow water would prove verj' embarrassing to 
 the successful management of boats either in approaching or even 
 retreating should occasion demand. 
 
 The entire tribe numbers about l.dOO souls, or exactly 981 according 
 to a census of Lieutenant Symons, United States Navy. Among these 
 there are between 300 and 400 able-bodied men, capable of bearing 
 arms and prosecuting an active attack or defense in case of hostilities- 
 The old Hudson Bay Company musket is the pattern of gun most uni- 
 versally found among them, yet quite a number are provided with 
 double-barreled shot-guns, loading at the muzzle and of a very small 
 caliber, so that a bullet can be used with almost the same freedom as shot. 
 
 With these very poor weapons these men are very successful in se- 
 curing game, which can be accounted for by their great energy and an 
 apparent ignorance, certainly a disregard, of an}' feeling of fatigue, 
 even after climbing the highest and steepest hills, mountains, and 
 canons in the shortest space of time imaginable. The two divisions of 
 this tribe, though at present friendly, have not always been on such 
 intimate terms; in fact some years ago each had separate trails into the 
 interior, the use of which was refused members of the opposite branch. 
 Each division as previously stated has its own head chief, who individ- 
 ually exerts a great influence over the subchiefs and the many mem- 
 bers of the tribe. Shotrich, signifying " hard to kill," is the name of 
 the Chilkat chief, a very dignified and venerable old man, who ordi- 
 narily dresses well, but on important occasions puts on a very excellent 
 suit of blue clothes with brass buttons. These, together with quite a 
 large scar on his cheek, give him an air of great importance and quite 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 79 
 
 ;i military bearing-. The head chief of the Cliilkoots is Don-iiah-wauk, 
 siguifying "silver eye;" he also is considerably advanced in years bnt 
 is greatly respected by his entire people. The feeling of these two men, 
 as well as that of the entire tribe, towards the whites in the conntry 
 is in every respect friendly, and at present do not seem at all (>i)i)<)sed 
 to their coming in. On account of their superior numbers, however, and 
 the very few whites dwelling in the region, their behavior is not al- 
 ways what would be desired. Especially is this the case when they are 
 under the influence of liquor, when they become at times very insolent- 
 These Indians have never had any serious difficulties with the United 
 States, the only disputes which have occurred being in regard to 
 matters of trade, and as their power and intention of doing injury Avas 
 respected by the whites, no great effort was made to enter their ter- 
 ritory when thej^ refused admittance. Since the refusal to allow the 
 prospectors to enter the interior country, they have not only allowed 
 several other parties to go through, but have hired themselves out as 
 packers of the numerous and heavy stores generally carried bj' parties 
 seeking the interior. 
 
 As early as the year 1S51 a difficulty occurred with the English, who 
 had established a trading post a great many miles distant from their 
 homes, in the interior of the countr^^ This trouble is said to have beeu 
 instigated by the Eussians, which is not very probable, however, as 
 the Indians had a motive in acting as they did, on account of jealous^" 
 in matters of trade. They had been, and were carrying on a trade 
 with the Indians living along the Yukon River, even below the mouth of 
 the Pellj^, when the Hudson Bay Company established a trading station 
 at Fort Selkirk. This of course presented a serious opposition to their 
 trade, and instead of resorting to the civilized method of reducing rates 
 the Indians considered a confiscation of the goods and demolition of the 
 buildings the best and quickest way of again asserting their monopoly. 
 At this time a Mr. Campbell was the agent for the company, who, with 
 a few men under his employ, were tied while the store was being plun- 
 dered, and allowed to depart unharmed after the Indians were satis- 
 fied. The buildings were then set on fire and completely destroyed, 
 and have never been rebuilt by the English. As will be seen, most all 
 their troubles have occurred in consequence of an interference with 
 their trade, but now, having seen the advantages of intercourse with 
 the whites, they uot only conduct themselves more resi)ectfully but 
 do not deserve the reputation of being so warlike or bloodthirsty in 
 disposition. They have the utmost respect for a naval vessel, many of 
 the men having served short eidistments, and are willing to listen to 
 any terms dictated by the commander thereof. In the event of a uni- 
 vtrsal outbreak against the Government these Indians have the will 
 and power to not only make a very determined resistance, but commit 
 considerable damage before any successful operations could be carried 
 on against them. 
 
80 MII.ITAKV RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 In canyinji on a (.'ainpaign against tlieni, their villages would ueces- 
 saril.v l)e tirst considered. These they would have to abandon if artil- 
 lery were used against them, and, unlike most of the Jndians i)reviously 
 spoken of, they would very probably retreat inland, where it would be 
 very ditlicult to follow on account of a lack of transportation. The trail 
 ordinarily followed being too dilHicult in places to permit the emidoy- 
 nient of pack animals, i)rovision should be made at tirst to prevent a 
 retreat in that direction. 
 
 There are no Iiulians in the neighborhood who would unite with them 
 ijs allies, nor, indeed, with the whites, unless well rewarded. 
 
 TAHK-IIEESH INDIANS. 
 
 Very little has been known of these Indians until a very recent date, 
 on account of whites being prevented from entering their country and 
 they themselves being kept away from the sea-coast by the Chilkats, 
 with whom, as jjreviously stated, they carry on a considerable trade. 
 It was supposed that they must be in considerable numbers, not only 
 because represented as such by the Chilkats, but on account of the 
 4iuantities of furs which were brought out in the trading trips under- 
 taken at different times during the year. As no definite idea could be 
 formed of the length of the journeys except from the number of days 
 consumed, it was, of course, not known whether one village or several 
 were visited, or whether several distinct tribes did not furnish the furs. 
 On account of this great lack of reliable information the name given to 
 this tribe by the Chilkats, namely '' Stick," is the one by which they are 
 most generally designated ; in fact, this apellation is used when speak- 
 ing of any of the interior Indians. Another name, though less fre- 
 quently employed, is Si him-E-na. Among themselves they are known 
 by the name employed at the heading of this description, which circum- 
 stance is the authority for its use iu this connection. 
 
 The tribe, as such, can hardly be said to exist, for instead of being 
 united into one or more villages, it is divided into a number of families, 
 each of which, is far removed from another, very much as settlers in a 
 frontier country. As far as is known they never unite for the perform- 
 ance of any ceremonies or dances, and have apparently no bond of 
 union whatever, each member of the tribe being as important as any 
 other. To show to what extent the ditterent members of the tribe are 
 removed from each other, it may be stated that they were first met at 
 the Chilkoot village, previously jnentioued, and last seen only a short dis- 
 tance above Fort Selkirk. At this last-named place is a small village, 
 unoccupied at certain seasons of the year, which is considered as belong- 
 ing to this same tribe. Between these two places, so far removed, only a 
 few habitations were met with, none of which were large enough to ac- 
 commodate more than two families at the most. On the stream which 
 unites Lake Taliko and Lake Marsh is a substantial looking house built 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 81 
 
 of logs and hewn timber, with a roof made of bark, presenting quite 
 a civilized appearance in every respect, and evidently' the work of an 
 Indian who has had more or less intercourse directly or indirectly with 
 white men. The country over which these Indians wander is very 
 mountainous throughout its entire extent, and presents generally a very 
 barren appearance. About the only timber found is a variety of pine, 
 which can hardly be said to flourish, especially along the chain of lakes, 
 for it grows up a certain height, and then dies, apparently from lack of 
 nourishment, on account of the very rocky nature of the soil. Immense 
 forests of these small dead pines can be seen stretching everj^where 
 in the distance. At certain points they attain a larger size, but are 
 rarely ever seen alive of any great diameter. Very little underbrush 
 exists except close to the water, and there is agreat scarcity of all sorts 
 of berries. Game seems almost unknown throughout this region, ex- 
 cept bears, principally of the black variety, mountain sheep, and small 
 birds, such as ducks, grouse, &c., which indeed do not abound in any 
 quantities. As the lakes are passed the country presents a less bar- 
 ren appearance ; the trees grow larger, and other varieties besides the 
 pine are found. Besides bears and the small game mentioned before, 
 moose are also found in considerable numbers. Very little, if any, fish 
 are caught up near the beginning of the chain of lakes, but down farther, 
 more especially in the streams connecting the different larger bodies of 
 water, salmon abound and are caught in considerable quantities by the 
 natives, who apparently subsist almost entirely on them, the winter 
 supply being dried in the sun without salt, and stored up for use when 
 needed. Besides salmon quantities of grayling abound, which are dis- 
 regarded by the Indians, who take no i)ains to secure them, being un- 
 familiar with hooks, and they are too small to be captured with the 
 spears which are emploj'ed by them in catching the salmon. These 
 spears consist of three points, the middle one of which is made of iron, 
 straight and sharpened at the point, while the two on each side are of 
 bone, and barbed with an old nail or other small scrap of iron. These 
 are all separate from each other, and when in use are fastened to the 
 end of a long pole cut especially for the x>nrpose. Small seines are also 
 used in addition to the spears. The appearance of the Indians corre- 
 spond very" closely with the character of the country, for they are the 
 most abject looking beings imaginable. They are clothed in a combina- 
 tion of civilized and native clothes ; the shirt generally has the appear- 
 ance of having been made in accordance with the plan used by the 
 whites, while the pants are of buckskin, the covering for the foot be- 
 ing continuous with the rest of the garment. 
 
 In stature they are not much below the average, but invariably pre- 
 sent a most cadaverous appearance, as if only half nourished. ]!fotwith- 
 standing this apparently Aveak condition, they are capable of carrying 
 large packs, equal in amount to those borue by the Chilkats. 
 S. Ex. 2 6 
 
82 MILITARY RHCONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 Whatever they obtain in trade, such as cloth and articles of food, 
 comes to them throiijih the Chilkats, and they themselves also make 
 Jonnieys to the trading stores at Pryaniid Harbor. When an Indian 
 trader comes into the conntry he fjives notice of his i)resence by build- 
 inj; a larjje tire, the smoke of which can be seen at a cotisiderable dis- 
 tance, and if there are any Indians in the neijihborhood they resjxmd 
 to the siy:nal in the same manner. The old tlint lock musket, formeily 
 sold by the Hudson Bay Company, with a few pistols of equal crude- 
 ncssof make, are their onlj' fire-arms; and as their ammunition is ob- 
 tained in the same manner as their other necessary supplies an out- 
 break of their entire number would not be very formidable, unless there 
 are numerous fjimiliesof this tribe, living elsewhere than along the head- 
 waters of the Yukon Kiver, which is not very probable. Their entire 
 number does not certainly exceed titty altogether. Communication is 
 confined almost entirely to water and is effected by means of rafts and 
 canoes. The last named, on account of the scarcity of timber, are ver^' 
 poorly constructed. The log being originally too small to nuike a canoe 
 of sufficient size, a piece has to be bound along the rim to give greater 
 depth. 
 
 In a military sense, this tribe could be almost disregarded, being so 
 few in numbers and having so little union as to be unable to cause any 
 serious difficulty. 
 
 A-YAX OR AI-YAN INDIANS. 
 
 Before leaving Fort Selkirk s.sveral of this tribe came to meet us with 
 the information that their village was ouly a few miles below, and that 
 we would be perfectly welcome. It is situated just 12 miles below the 
 mouth of the Pelly River and is apparently very temporary indeed, for 
 the least possible work seemed to have been expended on the houses, 
 which were made of brush and covered above with moose skins. 
 
 The tribe lived here, or in the immediate neighborhood, during the 
 warm season, when the salmon are running in the river, and scatter out 
 during the winter, subsisting on game, which abounds in great quantities. 
 As well as could be determined, no provision is made for winter by 
 drying and storing away fish, as is the custom with many other tribes. 
 But the fish, though secured in abundance in the early summer, are gen- 
 erally entirely consumed before the village is vacated. The tribe num- 
 bers about two hundred souls altogether, and is divided into numerous 
 families with several members each. The men are almost universally 
 provided with fire-arms, which are mostly double-barreled shotguns of 
 small caliber, which carry shot and bullet with almost the same accu- 
 racy. Bows and arrows have not been given up entirely, though in use 
 chiefly among the younger members of the tribe, who are not able to 
 obtain guns. 
 
 The ludians are of medium size and apparently good uatured and 
 kindly disposed towards the whites, none of whom have settled in their 
 
 i 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 83 
 
 country, or even venture there for trading purposes, although two years 
 ago a steamboat went within a few days' run of their village. As long 
 as the white men comply with their demands there would be no diffi- 
 culty experienced, but as they are almost the worst beggars in the world 
 these requests have necessarily to be often disregarded. The chief of 
 this i)eople, called " Kon-itl," is an old and dried up individual, who 
 ]irobably begs more than any other member of the tribe, and would re- 
 sign his authority over the people for a large sized piece of tobacco. 
 Civilized clothes are in use almost universally, although leg coverings of 
 moose skin are generally worn instead of trowsers. The supply of use- 
 ful articles, such as ammunition, plain articles of food, &c., is obtained 
 from several different sources. 
 
 The Chilkats, since the earliest times, have traded with these Indians, 
 and obtained from them their best furs. The English up the Pelly 
 River, furnished them formerly with many articles ; and during the 
 past few years there has been a trader, who has lived during the winter 
 about 150 miles further down the river. They do not buy many arti- 
 cles of food, but live almost entirely on fish, meat, and a sort of wild 
 pea, which grows quite abundantly throughout this section of country. 
 As long as they have plenty to eat nothing seems to disturb them at 
 all, and they rarely ever manifest any desire to improve their condition 
 by adopting civilized methods of living and working. Considerable 
 journeys are made by them, both up and down the river in their canoes, 
 which are made of birch bark, and as a rule perfectly modeled, being 
 very light and at the same time quite strong. The great skill dis- 
 played in the construction of their canoes seems to be entirely exhausted 
 there, for throughout their camp were no useful articles whatever, ex- 
 cept an occasional wooden spoon or birch basket of the rudest make. 
 
 The adjacent country is mountainous, and abounds in game of differ- 
 ent varieties, such as mountain sheep, deer, bears, both black and brown, 
 and moose. The last named animal is found all along the river and 
 furnishes almost all the meat that is eaten by these Indians. The only 
 domestic animal found among them is the dog, which in the summei is 
 of comparatively little use, but during the winter his services are not 
 onl3' employed in hunting, but in drawing sledges, and in even pack- 
 loads on his back. As a rule, however, a number are hitched to a sled 
 and considerable journeys made over. the frozen river, so that their 
 dogs are almost as valuable to them as their canoes, and especially so 
 when the severity and length of the winter are taken into considera 
 tion. 
 
 As far as is known these Indians have never been at war with the 
 neighboring tribes, with whom at present very friendly relations exist 
 and as white men have never ventured into their country for any length 
 of time no difficulties have occurred with them. They are not what might 
 be considered as honorable or even brave men, for they would not dare 
 to approach a white man with the intention of doing him an injury, un- 
 
84 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 less ill cuusiderable numbers, but would not hesitate to take advantage 
 of one when he least expected it. 
 
 They are very superstitious, and have almost implicit confidence in 
 the sayings and piedi(;tioiis of the " shaman," who, as a rule, is a good 
 for nothing individual who gains an easy living by thus taking advan- 
 tage of their fears. 
 
 The territory occupied by this tribe and the Tahk-heesh as well lies 
 entirely in tlie English jiossessious; consequently they are of importance, 
 in a military sense, only in respect to the aid they might furnish other 
 tribes wlio live near the boundary line. The native name of the sum- 
 mer village spoken of before is Ka-Tun. 
 
 TAKON INIHANS. 
 
 Directly opposite Fort Reliance, a trading post of only two or three 
 log houses, and situated near the boundary line between Alaska and 
 British America, and in the latter, is an Indian village of considerable 
 size. The houses are not substantially built, being of logs and brush 
 piled up, and are placed almost at the water's edge. This point is dis- 
 tant from the A-yan village, mentioned before, about 150 miles, and as 
 the current in the river is quite rapid the journey down stream can be 
 made in less than twenty-four hours without much exertion with oars 
 or other propelling power. If occasion required a trip in the opposite 
 direction not only much more labor would be necessary but much more 
 time would be consumed, as boats would have to be " tracked," the cur- 
 rent running about 3h to 4 miles an hour. The Indians, in their light 
 canoes, keep well towards the shore, in fact as near land as possible, 
 and push themselves along by means of two small sticks held in the 
 hands and used like poles. In this way quite a fair speed is maintained, 
 but not a great distance accomplished during the day, as these Indians, 
 like many others, are generally opposed to violent exercise of an^^ kind 
 in which there is any element of work 
 
 During the ])ast few years a trader in the employ of the Alaska Com- 
 mercial Company has lived among this tribe, and a steamboat has like- 
 Mise made several trips to their village, so that they have had opportu- 
 nities of providing themselves with the many useful articles of food and 
 clothing, and have thus been thrown in direct intercourse with civilizing 
 influences. 
 
 The tribe numbers about 100 souls altogether, with from 30 to 35 
 able-bodied men who are capable of bearing arms. The gun used by 
 them is the double-barreled shotgun, spoken of before, and most of the 
 men have from one to three of these, while some are provided with 
 Henry rifles, although there are very few of these. They are poorly 
 supi)lied with ammunition, having very little on hand at one time, and 
 their only iiossible sources are the steamer and trader previously men- 
 tioned, the Chilkats, and Hudson Bay Company post on the Porcu- 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 85 
 
 pine Kiver. Durin*;' the Aviiiter these Indians wander about, oecn})yin^ 
 temporary houses of moose skins, which they carry witli them, and move 
 from place to phice according to the amount of game found. 
 
 The country is quite well timbered, but the soil is everywhere covered 
 with a thick moss, which i)rotects the ground beneath, so that onl^" a lit- 
 tle distance down the ground remains frozen all the year round. 
 
 Caribou and moose abound in quantities throughout this region, and 
 furnish the tribe almost their only means of subsisting, except the root 
 of a small vine, containing considerable sugar, which is largely eaten. 
 Quantities of rabbits are also found during the winter and in sufficient 
 numbers to sustain a few men, or at least furnish sufficient fresh me it 
 to guard against any chance of disease, if due care be observed in other 
 respects. Salmon is about the only fish caught to an^^ extent in the 
 river, and as the season only lasts during July and August of each year 
 they are not depended on for food only during those months, and are 
 not dried and stored away for consumption during the winter. 
 
 Communication by water is effected by means of canoes, as stated, 
 and also by rafts in going down stream, and by land by dogs, which 
 are made to pack loads during the summer and draw the sleds in win- 
 ter. White men's clothing has been pretty generally adopted by these 
 Indians, who obtain the cloth and other material from traders. If their 
 supply should be denied them they would experience no embarrassment, 
 as skins of different kinds would then be used and no trouble would be 
 found in obtaining them in sutficient quantities. 
 
 The head chief of the tribe is called Chil-tah, who has always mani- 
 fested a frieudlj^ feeling towards the whites and has considerable influ- 
 ence over the tribe. Although this should not always be relied on, 
 these Indians are more under the influence of Christian religion than 
 most others on the river, Indian missionaries having been among them 
 from time to time, and they would have great influence both in preventing 
 war and securing peace. There are several of the so-called " shamans" 
 among them, two of whom have acquired considerable notoriety on ac- 
 count of their influence. One called Ee-nuk is especially well known 
 on account of his vicious temper and his great inclination to stir up the 
 remainder of the tribe into committing various wrongs against the trader 
 wintering at their village. "Joseph" is the name of the other man, but 
 he does not have as bad a character as the first one. The influence of 
 these individuals over the tribe is very strong, but as they practice this 
 art as a means of living the interests of the tribe are by no means fore- 
 most in their hearts, consequently well directed bribes would not fai 
 in good results. 
 
 In the event of difficulties arising with these Indians the only allies 
 liable to unite with them is a band of this same tribe, not included in 
 this description, who number about sixty and live over towards the 
 headwaters of the Tananah River. Allies against them would be very 
 difficult to secure in this section of country. 
 
86 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 In cliaractor those Indians arc not at all brave or manly, but on the 
 contrary are threat cowards, and notwithstanding their many exi>res' 
 sions of contempt for the white man and his way of living, yet they have 
 great respect for his power. One determined man conld awe a crowd 
 of them if they considered him capable of intlicting injury, but instead 
 ol making any resistance at such a time they would wait until he was 
 oft his guard. As a rule they are willing and very glad to have the 
 whites come into the country on account of convenience in trading their 
 furs; but last year, on account of their idleness, sufficient game was not 
 secured to satisfy their desires, so that their demands became so fre- 
 quent for charity and with such insolence that the trader considered it 
 more prudent to remain away this winter. 
 
 To carry on a campaign against them troops would have to be brought 
 in by the way of the mouth of the Yukon, and among the unusual 
 supi)lies needed would be clothing for winter wear, such as is made by 
 the natives living near the mouth, and for use in summer small-meshed 
 mosquito bars as a protection against the myriads of gnats and mos- 
 quitoes which swarm about constantly, and to a man weakened in any 
 way as by wounds or sickness, would very much lessen his chances of 
 recovery. 
 
 In regard to the name of this tribe, "Takon," which is adopted at the 
 beginning of this <les(;rij)tion, is, as well as Avas determined through our 
 interpreter, the name by which they are known among themselves. 
 Among the Ingalik tribes, living further down the river, they are 
 called " Tchi-cargut-kotan." 
 
 The native name of the village itself is Nu-kla-ko, consisting of about 
 twelve houses, which seem hardly capable of holding all the Indians; 
 for although the number as counted by Mr. John McQuestion, a trader, 
 ■was between eighty and eighty live only, there were evidently many 
 others from the Touauah country visiting at the time of our meeting 
 them. 
 
 KT.AT-OL-K1.IX INDIANS. 
 
 This is a name given to this tribe of Indians by a trader's half-breed 
 Russian interpreter who has lived among them for several years ; on 
 what authority is not known, for, although our interpreter could not be 
 considered entirelj' reliable, yet, as well as could be learned, they, like 
 the Indians just described, call themselves Takon. lu manners, customs, 
 and language, they resemble the Takons very closely, but as a rule 
 seem rather more particular in regard to their personal appearance, lie- 
 ing somewhat cleaner and better dressed. The village itself, consisting 
 of seven very rudely-built houses, is about 85 miles below Fort Reliance, 
 the river between the two places cutting through a mountain range, and 
 confined generally to one channel, being unlike the country above and 
 below, where many islands and gravel bars present serious obstacles to 
 the successful navigation of steamboats and other craft. About a mile 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 87 
 
 below this point are several well-built log houses formerly occupied by 
 traders, but have since been abandoned as unprofitable, it being consid- 
 ered wiser, if possible, to make the Indians come to a store rather thau 
 locate it in their midst, on account of the inherent tendency among them 
 to covet everything they see. Among the whites the Indian vilhige is 
 known as '' Johnny's " after the head chief, while the site of the trad- 
 ing station is known as Bell Isle; at present their ammunition and 
 other articles of food and raiment are obtained from traders who ascend 
 the river in the early summer, and until this winter one has remained 
 in the immediate neighborhood, so that the bad behavior of the Indians 
 at Fort Reliance will interfere with the general welfare of all the tribes 
 living in this section. They were either well supplied with ammunition, 
 or very prodigal of their small store, on account of their expecting the 
 speedy arrival of the steamer, for our approach, as was general all along 
 the river, was hailed by a perfect fusilade of blank shots. 
 
 Among other customs of the whites, which are imitated by all these 
 Indians, is that of shaking hands; a small matter in itself, but one that 
 is sincerely regretted when required by every man, woman, and child 
 in the village. In winter these Indians leave the river and scatter out 
 in different directions in quest of game, principally moose and caribou, 
 which, in reality, provide them with their only food. Besides these, how- 
 ever, great numbers of bears are found, particularly of the black variety ; 
 also deer, mountain sheep, and rabbits. 
 
 While the salmon are running in the river, they settle down at their 
 village, which is situated close to the water's edge, and do nothing but 
 fish. Great skill in the management of their canoes, and keenness of 
 sight are required in order to obtain the supply of fish as they do. A 
 dip net attached to an oval-shaped frame, and the whole fastened to a 
 pole about 10 feet long, is their only means of ^taking the salmon. One 
 of the family, generally a woman, stands up on the bank, and observ- 
 ing some sort of ripple, or disturbance in the water, which would be to- 
 tally disregarded by an inexperienced eye, points out the spot to the 
 man, ready, at the water's edge, to start out in his canoe. He then pad- 
 dles quickly out to the place, sinks his net well down in the water, and 
 generally manages to secure the fish. Whether successful or not he re- 
 turns to the shore ready for the next fish to appear in sight. 
 
 These Indians number about 100 souls altogether, with from 35 to 40 
 men, who are what might be called able-bodied. They are as a rule 
 all armed with double barreled shotguns, of small caliber, such as have 
 been spoken of before. A very few of the men have the improved rifle, 
 but as the introduction of cartridges into the territory is prohibited, 
 much difficulty would be and is experienced in obtaining a sufficient 
 supply, consequently these guns are very little sought after. 
 
 The country along this portion of the river is quite mountainous and 
 well covered with timber, ])rincipally birch, spruce, and poplar, both 
 of which grow to a considerable height. The soil is everywhere covered 
 
88 MILITARY RKCONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 witli ii thick moss, which stays moist and bofrfjy throufjh the summer. 
 About the houses at BeUe IsU', where the trees liad heeu cleared away, 
 several kinds of grass were growiiifj luxuriantly, reaching; a length of 
 about 12A feet, which would show that with due care and labor certain 
 hardy varieties of produce can be raised. 
 
 This band of Indians are very kindly disposed toward the whites, and 
 seem delighted to have them visit their village, more on account of what 
 tbey can procure from them than from any other reason, as thej', like 
 most of their brethren in this ])art of the country, are continually beg- 
 ging. Anything in the shape of useful articles is acceptable to them, 
 and such things are preferred iu every instance to beads and like orna- 
 ments. 
 
 Tea and tobacco are the articles generally asked for, so that if every 
 demand were responded to for those articles a large enough supply 
 could not be carried into the country. In the event of trouble with this 
 band the only Indians liable to unite with them are those living at Fort 
 Eeliance, and likewise a small village below them on the river. The 
 only difficulty that could occur, however, would be through some mis- 
 understanding in trade, or on account of the avariciousness of the In- 
 dians, who besides many other faults are very improvident indeed, and 
 when their supply of food is not very accessible, the trader, if one is 
 living in the neighborhood, is expected to provide for them. No white 
 men have settled in the country, and the only intercourse which these 
 Indians have had with civilized men has been with a few traders and 
 some miners. The last-named individuals have not stopped long with 
 them, however, as the prospects of rich discoveries were never so flatter- 
 ing as to warrant any very lengthened staj'S. The discovery of gold 
 in paying quantities is probably the only incentive for men to enter the 
 country, and were it not that indications are seen all along the river 
 white men would probably never venture in. 
 
 To carry on a campaign against this band, troops would have to be 
 brought in by the mouth of the river, and should be well provided with 
 some sort of protection against mosquitoes. 
 
 TABOOSH OR CHART^EY'S INDIANS. 
 
 The village occupied by this band of Indians is known among the 
 whites, who ascend the river to trade, as "Charley's" village, and is 
 situated directly on the river, about 75 or 80 miles from the village pre- 
 viously spoken of as "John's;" it consists of oulj" five or six houses, 
 which are built after the general plan of all the native houses on this 
 portion of the river, of sticks and brush ; and with just enough room to 
 accommodate the various members of the family, including the dogs, 
 which are by no means few in numbers; had they any other domestic 
 animals to provide for, doubtless an entirely different style of structure 
 would be adopted. 
 
MILITARY KECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 8D 
 
 The (log- is to them what the horse and other beasts of burden are to 
 the civilized races ; and is not only used to pack on his back, and draw 
 sleds in winter, but is employed like the proverbial canal mule in draw- 
 ing their canoes up stream, not, however, when a single member wishes 
 to go on a journey, but when any number of the family moves, with the 
 various household goods, &g. These Indians number in all from 40 to 50, 
 and undoubtedly belong to the same tribe as those living at Belle Isle 
 and Reliance, for they resemble them in almost every particular, and 
 have separated doubtless on account of some diflBculty which occurred 
 years ago. All the men are armed with the same kind of shot-gun as other 
 Indians along this part of the river, and their ammunition is obtained 
 from the same source, which is principally the steamboat, which makes 
 the annual trips already spoken of. This point on the river is about 130 
 miles from Fort Yukon, and is at the limit, as it were, of the hilly coun- 
 try ; for onlj' a few miles beyond the country flattens out, and the river 
 divides up into almost countless channels, with islands of various size 
 between. Considerable game is found in this section, moose i^redominat- 
 ing in numbers, and furnishing to these Indians as well their main supply 
 of food during the winter. In summer they live in their village on the 
 river and devote themselves to catching salmon, which run in sufficient 
 quantities to feed them at this time, but their means of catching them 
 are too primitive to admit of their being caught in such quantities as to 
 furnish them a winter's supply. 
 
 In regard to the timber of this region, it is the same as that spoken of 
 previously, the birch being the only wood used in the manufacture of 
 any useful articles, principally in the construction of their canoes, which 
 are very light, durable, and beautifully shaped. A frame work is made 
 of a light wood, generally birch, which is securely fastened together 
 with moose-skin string or roots of the spruce, split. A covering is then 
 made of birch bark, fastened, wherever joints occur, with stitches made by 
 splitting small spruce roots, which are very flexible, and the cracks are 
 then closed with pitch, put on with a firebrand, in the same way that 
 solder is used. White men's clothes are universally worn by these peo- 
 ple, who buy the cloth from traders ; but should the supply be cut oft', 
 no great difficulty would be experienced in finding a substitute, as they 
 can procure sufficient furs to answer every purpose of dress without 
 very great exertion. 
 
 The head chief of this baud is known among the traders as " Char- 
 ley," and his feeling toward white men is very friendly. His influence 
 over the tribe is as a rule quite strong, but generally these men are quite 
 independent and only consult their own individual interests, conse- 
 quently any bribe or reward which would improve the pecuniary condi- 
 tion of single members would be accepted without regard to the gene- 
 ral welfare of the remainder of the tribe. They hold very friendly 
 relations with the bands of Indians living above and below them on 
 the river, and are i)articularly pleased to have white men come among 
 
90 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 tluMii. At the time of our meeting them there was a miuer living at their 
 vilhige waiting for the arrival of the steamboat, and he spoke of having 
 been very kindly received and hosi)itably entertained. 
 
 This, as well as the other tribes of this section, have peculiar ideas of 
 right and honor, for while appaiently never hesitating for an instant 
 about making away with anything which hapi)ens to please them, pro- 
 vi<U'<l it be not stored away, yet if "cached," as it is called, away from 
 the owner, they will not touch it, and are said to regard this with such 
 respect as to almost starve before helping themselves to any food so 
 cached. 
 
 In a military sense these Indians are of little importance on account 
 of their small numbers, and even should they join anj' neighboring 
 tribes as allies, they, as is shown, would not swell their ranks very 
 largely. 
 
 In regard to the name which is used at the heading of this descrip- 
 tion, it is one employed on the authority of a white man, who had 
 lived among them some time ; but this name is not very generally in 
 use, especially among the whites, who generally speak of them as Char- 
 ley's Indians. 
 
 FORT YUKON INDIANS. 
 
 The principal village of this band of Indians is at Fort Yukon, an 
 old station of the Hudson Bay Company, which was abandoned shortly 
 after the purchase of the territory from the Kussian Government-^as 
 soon, indeed, as it was determined that the site was on American soil. 
 All that remains of the old post are three of the bastions and a por- 
 tion of the stockade, with a few of the buildings, all of which are slowly 
 disapi)earing as firewood for the steamboat. This is the only portion 
 of the river within the Arctic circle, the few miles on each side of the 
 old i)Ost, and would hardly have been recognized as in such a latitude, 
 at the time of our visit, for the weather was extremely warm, in every 
 resjK'ct like that of the temperate region in summer. In reality these In- 
 dians have not what might be called a ]»rincipal village, for they rarely 
 stay any length of time in one place, but wander over the country be- 
 tween the Porcupine and Yukon Kivers. 
 
 When the trading steamer is expected, theycome into Fort Yukon in 
 considerable numbers to dispose of their furs and obtain various useful 
 articles. This section of country- is entirely different from that previ- 
 ously drained by the river, for instead of being mountainous in every 
 direction, is absolutely flat, with not a single hill in sight anywhere. 
 The river spreads out into numerous narrow channels and sloughs, with 
 a width in some idaces of almost 7 miles. It has the appearance of the 
 delta at the mouth of a large river, and unless one is ta?niliar with the 
 different channels, different places on either bank may be passed by 
 without in any way discovering the error. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 91 
 
 Tbe number of Indians of this tribe is reckoned by men who have 
 had considerable intercourse with them, as between 100 and 110 and 
 although much less than this number were assembled at Fort Yukon 
 when the steamer passed, many villages, though small, were encoun- 
 tered above and below, the inhabitants of which belonged to this same 
 tribe. 
 
 All the men are i)rovided with guns of some description, the prevail- 
 ing pattern being a long double-barreled shotgun of small caliber. 
 Some few of the old Hudson Bay Company flint and percussion lock 
 muskets are seen, however. 
 
 The country about abounds in game of various kinds, such as deer, 
 bear, caribou, and moose, the last-named animal furnishing the natives 
 their chief article of food. Especially is this true in winter, when the 
 river is frozen over, and indeed no fish running up stream in any quan- 
 tities. During the summer this tribe occupies villages at different points 
 either on the mainland or on islands in the river, and devote their time 
 to catching salmon, which is about their only food. 
 
 Civilized clothes have been very generally adopted by these Indians, 
 who prefer such garments, when able to obtain them, to their own, which 
 were made of moose skin and ornamented in different places with bright 
 colored pieces of cloth and beads. Their supply of cloth and other nec- 
 essar;y articles such as ammunition, cooking utensils, plain food, &c., is 
 obtained from traders who ascend the river from stations below, and also 
 from the Hudson Bay Company, which has a station some distance up 
 the Porcupine Eiver. In former times, before the Territory passed into 
 the hands of the United States, Fort Yukon was one of the most im- 
 portant if not the largest post on the river. Certainly more trading 
 was done here than at any other point, for Indians from different tribes 
 came from every direction to trade, and boat-loads of goods were sent 
 down the river as far as the mouth of the Tananah River. At the pres- 
 ent time it is not a desirable point for a trading station, consequently is 
 not occupied, so that this tribe, though formerly thrown very intimately 
 with the whites, is now almost completely removed from any civilizing 
 influences. At the time of the English occupation an effort was made 
 to improve the condition of the tribe by teaching them the rudiments 
 of knowledge and instilling into their minds the jirecepts set forth in 
 the Bible. Kot much progress was made in this direction, however, 
 other than teaching them a few hymns, which were sung with great 
 energy by the Indians, who had not the faintest idea of what it all 
 meant. Being naturally fond of music they are very ready and willing 
 to embrace any such opportunity of exercising their voices. 
 
 The English are said to have had gardens and have been very suc- 
 cessful in raising certain kinds of vegetables during the brief but hot 
 season. Their example has not been imitated by the Indians, however, 
 who have ai)parently made very little progress in this direction. The 
 head chief of this tribe, called Senatee, as will be seen by his photo- 
 
92 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 jjrapl), is quite a dijjiiilied and old individual, with a countenance by no 
 means jnepossossing. He not only has ^re^t influence over liis imme- 
 diate tiilie, but is known by all tlie Indians in every direction atconsid- 
 erabh' distances up and down the river, and what he suggests is re- 
 spected by the various tribes. Even the traders appreciate bis i)ower, 
 have been in the liabit of allowing him a certain amount of goods to 
 trade for them, receiving in return a very small e(iuivalent tor their 
 value, as the idea was not for pecuniary gain but to propitiate this 
 man. As there are at present no white men who are living permanently 
 in the country no ditliculties of any sort can occur, but should they enter 
 and settle for any reason these Indians would receive them kindly, for 
 their feeling is in every way friendly. Senantee, though ai)parently very 
 proud of his authority, is very kindly disposed in every respect and 
 seems glad to deal with white men. 
 
 In speaking of small villages above and below Fort Yukon, tempo- 
 rary fishing villages were meant, as throughout this flat country Indians 
 are not found at all iiermanently estal)lished, and the only idea the En- 
 glish had in establishing a post in this section was to get as far west as 
 possible without encroaching on Russian territory. As it was, they 
 were some distance within the boundary, as determined by Capt. Charles 
 W. Kay mond, of the Engineer Corps, United States Army. In the event 
 of a campaign being necessary against this tribe troops would have to 
 be brought in by the mouth of the river and should be provided with 
 proper clothing, such as can be obtained from the natives living near the 
 coast, and some sort of protection agaitist the myriads of gnats and mos- 
 quitos which render existence almost unbearable during the hot sum- 
 mer months. In fact just as quick as the snow begins to melt they ap- 
 pear and do not leave until after one or two frosts. 
 
 There are no Indians who are liable to unite with these men as allies, 
 as all the tribes throughout this region have a separate and independ- 
 ent existence, though a grievance of an individual tribe is generally a 
 common one, and at present could occur only out of some disagree- 
 ment in trading, as whites are thrown with them only in this emi)loy- 
 ment. 
 
 TANANAH INDIANS. 
 
 About 300 miles below Fort Yukon, on the south bank of the river, 
 there enters a tributary, which, at its mouth, appears to occupy as much 
 space and convey as much water as the main river itself. This is only 
 apparent, however, on account of the flat character of thecountiy in the 
 in)mediate vicinity, for although a large stream, it is nevertheless con- 
 siderably smaller than the Y'ukon. The river is known as the Tananah, 
 and, with the exception of the two white men, lias never been explored 
 to any extent whatever. These two men made a portage across the 
 country .from near Belle Isle, and came npon the river 700 hundred 
 •niles from its mouth. The river here was about 1,200 yards wide, and 
 
 / 
 / 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 93 
 
 from its geueral cbaracter it was considered that it must have flowed 
 alreinly a distance of over 300 miles. It was descended from here in a 
 frail boat, rudelj" constructed, and covered with two moose skins, which 
 was in constant danger of being sunk by the numerous sharj) snags 
 which were sticking up out of the water. On account of the character 
 of the boat and the great dilficulty experienced in stopping when it was 
 desired a too large estimate was undoubtedly made of the distance trav- 
 eled, though these figures, judging from the amount of water poured 
 into the Yukon and the increase in the rapidity of the current after its 
 entrance, cannot be greatly in excess of the true estimate. Another 
 circumstance which would tend to show that the river at least extends 
 a very considerable distance beyond the point where the white men 
 came upon it, provided they traveled almost directly across country, is 
 the fact that there is a portage which is used by the Indians from the 
 "White River across to near the headwaters of this stream. 
 
 The White River is ascended a distance of 50 miles, and then a jour- 
 ney of about twelve days is required to reach the river. It is said by 
 traders, who have had considerable intercourse with these Indians, that 
 during the occupancy of Fort Selkirk the Tananah Indians were in the 
 habit of coming directly into that post without making a journey down 
 the White and thence up the Yukon. It is thus seen that there are, 
 besides entering the country by the mouth of the river, three different 
 ways which are or have been used in traveling backward and for- 
 ward between these two large rivers, which were used by the Indians in 
 communicating with neighboring Indians and traders either living per- 
 manently in the country or entering it temporarily for the disposal of their 
 goods. It is not known how long was required in the journey between 
 the river and Fort Selkirk, but probably a shorter time than by the 
 White River. The portage across from Belle Isle requires about ten 
 days, and as there is no other means of transporting goods than by 
 employing Indians to pack, except perhaps in winter when sleds might 
 be used, great difiiculty would be experienced in conveying any num- 
 ber of men across, without reducing the baggage, etc., to the very small- 
 est amount possible. This tribe lives all along the river, and has gen- 
 erally had the reputation of being very warlike and in every way averse 
 to civilizing influences. This is true to a great extent, for they have at 
 different times displayed considerable jealousy towards prospectors' 
 setting out with the intention of going through their territory, but on 
 various occasions have expressed a great desire to have a missionary 
 come among them, and have also been very anxious for a trader to es- 
 tablish a post among them. Their country being mountainous, and their 
 life being one of activity, being passed for the most part in liunting 
 game, makes them more inclined to war, no doubt, than other tribes, 
 who lead more sedentary lives, and secure their food with less difficulty; 
 yet they are by no means brave in the strict sense of the word, and like 
 most Indians would not hesitate to take an unfair advantage of au enemy 
 
94 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 wluMi he had the least suspicion of nuy treachery. Their whole miiuber is 
 variously estimated as between three and seven hundred, but those who 
 have had most frc<|ucnt intercourse with them reckon tlioir number as 
 about five hundrevl. Of these, all who arc capable of bcarinj;' arms are 
 l)rovided with a gun of some description, either a double barreled shot- 
 gun of small caliber, in which a bullet is generally emi)loyed, or the old- 
 fashioned musket, which was formerly sold by the Hudson Bay Com- 
 pany. There are very few, if any, breech-loading rifles, and are not sought 
 alter on account of the great dilliculty in obtaining ammunition in suf- 
 ticient quantity to sui)pl3- them, the introduction of cartridges into the 
 Territory being prohibited. They are poorly supplied with ammunition 
 of any sort, the supply being obtained from year to year, as it is needed, 
 from traders principally at posts on the Yukon. In the event of this 
 source being denied tliem, their only other means would be from the Chil- 
 kats or Hudson Bay Company either directly or through the agency of 
 Indians of other tribes. This is by no means an uncommon occurrence, 
 for many of these Indians do not buy goods for their own use, but for jmr- 
 poses of trade, though this is by no means as common as with the 
 natives along the Alexander Archipelago, who seem to take i)articular 
 delight, as it were, in accumulating wealth in the shape of blankets 
 and other useful articles. These Indians rarely possess more in the 
 way of useful articles than what they carry with them, and have 
 more or less diflficulty in always supplying themselves with these. They 
 are, as a rule, however, fairly well clothed in civilized garments for the 
 most part, which they obtain from traders, yet being somewhat far 
 removed from any trading post a good many wear the moose-skin coats 
 and trousers. In the event of their being denied any chance of ob- 
 taining cloth, very little, if any, embarrassment would be occasioned, 
 as only little labor would be required in obtaining skins and furs in 
 quantities sufficient to provide for all. Their habitations, except among 
 the Indians living near the mouth, are very temporary, being made of 
 moose skins in the winter, and generally of a lighter or less substantial 
 character even than this in summer, linear the mouth of the river some 
 of the tribe have underground houses, such as are in use among the 
 Innuits, and are called by the Russians " barraboras." The principal 
 game found along this river is moose, caribou, and mountain sheep, 
 which, besides the salmon and whitefish caught in considerable quan- 
 tities in the stream, furnish these Indians in reality their only food, for 
 were these cut off they would not be able to exist. There are very few 
 edible roots or berries found, about the only thing used as food being 
 the small root of a pea-like vine which contains considerable sugar, 
 and is eaten in considerable quantity. Very little tlour or other ])hun 
 articles of food are bought of traders, chiefly, no doubt, on account of 
 the difficulty in transporting it home. 
 
 Their means of communication are by canoes on the water, and by 
 laud by means of dogs, packing in summer and drawing sleds in win- 
 
 I 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 95 
 
 ter. Rafts are not used by thein, ou account of the rapidity of the 
 current and the great difficulty experienced in managing such a craft. 
 In regard to the subdivisions of the tribe, there are three bands on the 
 lower 300 miles of the river, which would unite together in the event of 
 any difficulty, and are only distinct in the fact of their having separate 
 heads ; whether there are any divisions among the Indians living fur- 
 ther up is unknown. 
 
 The chief of the band occupying the section of the country near the 
 mouth is an old man known as "Ee-van," who has considerable influ- 
 ence over thesubchiefs and people generally. 
 
 The chief of the baud living about 200 miles up, is called "Jack," 
 and exerts only slight influence. Another individual, called the black 
 "shaman," not only exercises authority over this third division, but also 
 performs the office of medicine man among these Indians, and his in- 
 fluence, as such, is very strong indeed. Although it is thought that a 
 missionary among them would completely destroy this influence, not 
 however without danger to himself, as these shamans are very jealous 
 of their power, and are very prone to kill the object of their jealousy 
 themselves, or, as is often done, frighten some members of the tribe into 
 committing the deed. At present there are no whites anywhere along 
 the river, although only a short time ago there was a trading station 
 some little distance up from the mouth, which has siuce been aban- 
 doned. 
 
 The trader who lived among them speaks of them as friendly towards 
 the whites and the Indians living in the neighborhood, and if a man 
 shows determination and independence in his treatment of them, there 
 need be no fear of trouble. Individual disputes necessarily arise, and 
 in such an event if one asserts his rights in a bold and firm way the 
 Indian generally gives way. They have, of course, never been at war 
 with the whites, of whom and their Government they know very little, 
 and have the most exaggerated ideas of soldiers from pictures shown 
 them in illustrated papers, and at the same time profess to disbelieve 
 entirely the existence of any such class of white men. The only In- 
 dians liable to unite with them in war are some living on the Kosko- 
 quien, and a band called Too-clok, who live on a river of the same 
 name, which empties into the Tananah from the west, about 150 miles 
 from its mouth. Indian allies against them could, probably, not be ob- 
 tained in this section of country. 
 
 The seasons would atfect military operations in their country consider- 
 ably, for in the summer ordinary clothing could be worn, while provision 
 would have to be made against the extreme winter cold by providing 
 troops operating against them with garments of fur, which are made 
 and sold by the natives living near the mouth of the Yukon. All the 
 rivers freeze over, so that transportation by water has necessarily to be 
 abandoned and resort had to sleds drawn by dogs, which latter can be 
 obtained in sufficient numbers throughout the whole region. Besides 
 
96 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 tlic \\\v clothos, ail ainph' supply of mosquito bars should be carried as 
 a littlo protect ion ajjainst those pests. 
 
 Tlio appearance of a body of trooi)s with authority to do with thisaud 
 many other tribes as it please»l woukl have a very wholesome effect, as 
 tliere are a number of murderers uni)unislied, who, if i)roj)erly rewarded 
 for their misdeeds, would insure the good behavior of the remainder of 
 the tribe for some time to come. 
 
 About two years ago a Mr. J5ean ascended the river a short distance 
 aud settled there for the purpose of trading, lie was accompanied by 
 his wife ; and one morning while they were sitting at breakfast, a shot 
 was fired through the crack of the door, killing the woman almost in- 
 stantly. The motive for the deed was never exactly understood, as 
 no difficulty of any sort had occurred, and the Indians were all very 
 fond of both parties. The Indians said that the shaman, through some 
 intiuence or other, had conceived the idea that for the good of all a 
 white man must be killed, and so instigated the murder. The man who 
 did the actual shooting was turned over to the only trader in the neigh- 
 borhood, after he was captured, but the trader being afraid of a reaction 
 afterwards, if the man were punished, did not care to take the law into 
 his own hands, aud, in consequence, gave him his liberty. 
 
 INGALIK TRIBES. 
 
 This name is given to the various families living along the Yukon 
 River and its tributaries, below the so-called " Ramparts," and extend- 
 ing about 400 miles dow-n the river. As regards the exact limits either 
 way it is, of course, very difiicult, if not altogether impossible, to mark 
 them, for those bands living in close communication with those of en- 
 tirely distinct families, by loug intercourse gradually adopt certain 
 ways of living, and other improvements in different things over those 
 in vogue among themselves. In consequence of this different authors 
 would be apt to mark the limits at different places, according to the 
 minuteness with which they had observed the smallest details in their 
 every day life. 
 
 From Mr. Fredickson, a trader who has been thirteen years in the 
 territory, it is learned that the last Ingalik village is about 40 miles 
 below the settlement called Anvik. Among the tribes living within 
 this section, alreadj^ defined, there are one or two which do not coincide 
 in every particular with the Ingaliks proper, a fact which will be noticed 
 further on in speaking of them individually; but they are so similar in 
 manner of living and customs, and occupy regions so contiguous, that 
 in this description very little regard will be paid to the minute aud 
 delicate distinctions which could be of no service in any other than a 
 strictly scientific sense. 
 
 The country which they occupy is generally mountainous on each 
 side of the river, well covered with timber, principally spruce, poplar. 
 
 d 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 97 
 
 and birch, and consists mainly of rollin": plains, allied to the tundra, 
 so called, of Siberia, except that more or less timber abounds as men- 
 tioned before, the ground is everywhere covered with a thick grass or 
 moss, which remains very wet and soggy all the \ear around, and pre- 
 sents great difficulties to travel unless, as it is during many mouths of 
 the year, thickly covered with snow. This moss, remaining so wet, is a 
 poor conductor of heat, consequently it protects the soil beneath from 
 the rays of the sun during the few months that it sliiues brightly, so 
 that the fiozen ground does not thaw out at all. With this condition 
 of affairs it can hardly be said to be fertile, though by constant care 
 and considerable work in digging ditches for purposes of draining, cer- 
 tain varieties of produce can be raised. 
 
 At Nuklukoyet, a trading station, situated on the river, a few miles 
 below the mouth of the Tananah, Mr. Harper, the trader there, had a 
 garden fenced off, in which, without very much care or attention, he 
 had succeeded in producing turnips of large size and of excellent flavor. 
 Xo other vegetable of any sort had been planted, but he thought that 
 any of the hardier varieties could likewise be made to flourish and show 
 favorable results. 
 
 Several tributaries join the main river along this section, none of 
 which, however, except the Tananah, are of any great size. The Ko- 
 yukun comes in from the north, and is interesting in the fact that not 
 only quite a large band lives along its banks, but from its headwaters 
 a portage of no considerable length is made to the sea-coast, at Kot- 
 zebue Sound. Across this portage, trading goods of different kinds were 
 interchanged between the Innuits of the coast and these interior In- 
 dians. Among other things liquor, originally obtained from whalers and 
 other trading vessels, was disposed of to the Koyukuns, who thus be- 
 came addicted to the use of alcohol before many of their brethren, and 
 from this fact they have acquired considerable notoriety through many 
 difficulties growing out of drunken sprees. Many of these disputes 
 "were of course trifling in character, but others were accompanied by 
 fatal altercations. 
 
 Some distance to the westward of the mouth of the Koyukun is the 
 Kaltag River, a small but very clear stream, which flows in a south- 
 easterly direction, heading up in close proximity to the source of the 
 Oonalakleet Kiver, which flows into the sea. During the time of the 
 Rnssian occupation, when Nulato, situated a short distance above the 
 mouth of the Kaltag, was a trading post of considerable importance, 
 the journey between it and Saint Michaels was most conveniently ac- 
 complished by means of these two rivers. This was more particularly 
 the case in winter, when both streams were frozen over and the country 
 generally covered with snow. 
 
 The distance between Saint Michaels and the Oonalakleet is about 
 40 miles, and is made in canoes along the shores of Norton Sound, or 
 in sleds, according to the season of the year. The river is then as- 
 S. Ex. 2 7 
 
98 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 cended to a certain point, where a crossing is made to the Kaltng, and 
 that river is then traveled down to its niontli, from wliich point it is 
 abont 40 miles to Xulato. Somewhat farther down the river the Anvik, 
 a very swift stream, enters from the north, and a jwrtage across coun- 
 try to Saint Michaels is also made from near the headwaters of this 
 stream, occupying generally about live or six days, but a good Indian 
 can make the distance in summer in three. 
 
 These rivers are the oidy ones of imi)ortaiice, not on ac(;ount of their 
 size, as the Kaltag is a very small stream, but as attording a means of 
 communication, and one that is practicable, between the coast and the 
 dift'erent tribes who live along this portion of the river. If resort had 
 to be made to the journey by wny of the mouth of the river, especially 
 in entering the country ; much more time would be consumed though 
 for the transportation of a large number of men this way would be more 
 practicable. 
 
 The princii)al game found in this region is moose, reindeer, and many 
 ditforent varieties of water fowl, such as ducks, geese, swans, &c. 
 
 Dnring the winter the larger game is hunted, and furnishes the in- 
 habitants their chief support in the way of fresh meat. Early in the 
 spring the water fowl put in an appearance, and later on the tish begin 
 to run in considerable quantities in the river. Salmon are caught in con- 
 siderable numbers, but the chief reliance is in a smaller variety, called 
 whitetish, which is obtained in greater quantities and during a longer 
 time. Just before the breaking up of winter, before the water fowl 
 put in an appearance, there is a season when it is almost impossible to 
 obtain sutticient food of any kind to satisfy the ordinary wants, and the 
 inhabitants, being naturally very improvident, do not profit by past suf- 
 ferings, to store ui) sufficient to do them during this bad season ; conse- 
 quently in the past, more than at i)resent, many have died from actual 
 starvation. 
 
 In regard to the whole number of people comi)rised under the head- 
 ing of Ingaliks, it is very difticult to give an estimate which would 
 approximate the truth on account of the large tract of country occu- 
 pied b}' them and the great number of separate villages. In one 
 census report the number is given as about 1,250, and as many as 
 six villages are mentioned as containing a population of over 100, 
 while one is spoken of as containing 700. These estimates were 
 made from the steamboat as it ascended the river, when individuals 
 from all around assembled at different points; so that while, of course, 
 giving a fair idea of the whole number in the region, it overestimates 
 the number of occupants of each village ; and as these are in every 
 respect distinct from each other, much perplexity would be occasioned 
 in the event of any disturbance arising. Though not having sufficient 
 time to examine minutely concerning the number of inhabitants in each 
 village, yet as our approach was, as a rule, quiet, and in every way un- 
 exiiected, we did not i)ass a single village that could accommodate as 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 99 
 
 many as one bniidred ; and as it was more often tlie case that the 
 inhabitants were away than collected together, the villages almost 
 invariably presented a very deserted appearance. The whole num- 
 ber may be estimated safely as between 1,200 and 1,500, divided 
 among different bands, leading lives independent of each other, except 
 the interchange of certain articles in trade. The relations are gener- 
 ally friendly in most respects, but in the event of a dithculty of one di- 
 vision with the whites, none of the others would join this one out of 
 pure friendship, unless the matter in dispute were one which concerned 
 all of them as a people. Such a disturbance at present could onl^' grow 
 out of some trading interest, as that is almost the only industry which 
 throws them in contact with the whites ; in fact with a very few excep- 
 tions the only whites who have ever been in this region have been in- 
 duced by prospects of large profits in disposing of their goods to the 
 natives. 
 
 The only miners who have prospected this region are a party who 
 wintered there during 1882, and they not only found the chances of be. 
 coming suddenly wealthy far from flattering, but are said to have been 
 actually driven out of the country by the myriads of mosquitoes which 
 swarm in such numbers during the summer season. To give something 
 of an idea of the numbers and annoyance occasioned by these insects, 
 it is stated as a fact, by men who have been in the country any time, 
 that animals are often killed by them, and an argument in proof of 
 the veracity of this statement is shown by the great sores which are 
 produced on dogs when chained in one place for any length of time. 
 
 Many of the natives take advantage of the civilized improvements — 
 in the shape of mosquito netting, for instance, which thej' use as a veil, 
 wearing it coiled around their hats when not in use. As regards these 
 Ingaliks as a class, they are, as a rule, of average height, tolerably well 
 built, but slender, differing in this respect from the natives further down 
 the river. They have long black hair and a complexion brown by nature, 
 but often verging toward black on account of a liberal covering of dirt. 
 In character they are generally pretty brave, but by no means inclined 
 to war, and are by no means so upright or honorable as to hesitate to 
 take an unfair advantage of an enemy. Avarice is a prominent trait 
 in their character and they do not seem to have very much affection 
 except perhaps for their children. 
 
 On account of the cold and damp climate, and the constant exposure 
 to which the children are subjected on account of a lack of sufficient 
 clothing, pulmonary diseases of various kinds are very prevalen c. ^Nlany 
 die of pneumonia, it is said, during the winter, and they all have an ap- 
 I)earauce as if inclined to consumption. Whooping-cough is very preva- 
 lent among the children, which of itself, and with the sequeh«, causes 
 the death of a number. 
 
 Last winter there was a severe epidemic of some throat disease, pre- 
 sumably diphtheria, as well as could be acertained from the different des - 
 
100 MILITARY KKCONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 ciiptioMs. Tbiscoinpletoly ilesolated some families, and was particularly 
 fatal amonj; the yomijier ineinhers. All alonp; the river numerous and 
 recent graves were seen, often as if injlosinj^ the bodies of whole fam- 
 ilies, judjying from the amount of space included within the rough fence. 
 
 These natives are (piite industrious, and as a rule willing to work, 
 but as there is not much demand for their services they do not lind 
 much employment among the whites. They are active traders, doing 
 much business, as it were, with the Innuits living down the river and 
 on the coast. They exchange certain wooden utensils, skins (princi- 
 l)ally wolverine for trimming garments), canoes, and other articles for 
 oil and skins of the tame rein«leer, obtained in trade principally from 
 the natives of Asia. The canoes, which they use themselves and trade 
 to the lower river Indians, are made of birch bark, similar in many re- 
 spects to those iu use by the Indians living nearer the headwaters of 
 the river, but they are far moi'e substantially built and not so well mod- 
 eled. They have to be built on firmer fiames on account of being used 
 on rougher water; for the river spreading out in this lower country af- 
 fords ample space for the wind to create considerable commotion in the 
 water, which would [vrove disastrous to any craft less substantially made. 
 These canoes atibrd them during the summer almost their ouly means 
 of communication, although one of the large skin boats of the Innuits, 
 called a "bidarra" by the Russians, is occasionally seen in use among 
 them. These are propelled by means of paddles and sails and are capable 
 of carrying immense loads. 
 
 During the winter, which in reality is the season when they do most 
 of their traveling, their reliance for trans])ortation of their property, 
 as well as themselves, is in their dogs, w^hich are capable of making very 
 long journeys without requiring very much food. The dog is the ouly 
 domestic aninuil found among them, and, as is seen, answers their pur- 
 pose far better than the horse or any other draft animal. 
 
 In the section of country occupied by these natives there are two 
 white men permanently settled for the purpose of trading with them. 
 One at Nuklukayet, or. more properly, Tananah Station (the first name 
 being that of an abandoned post situated a short distance up the river), 
 supplies the lower Tai:anah district and all the region up and down on 
 each side of the river for a a considerai)le distance. 
 
 The Indians generally come in early in the year, so that they are very 
 often collected about the post at one time to the number of 400 or more, 
 and occupy their time in dances and celebrations of all kinds. At other 
 times during the year single individuals come in, obtain what they re- 
 quire and leave, so that as a general thing, the post and its surround- 
 ings have more of a deserted ai)pearance than otherwise. 
 
 The other trading post is at Anvik, which sui)plies the natives living 
 along the Anvik River, the Shageluk section, and the country along the 
 river, both up and down. The larger portion of the trading material 
 is brought up on the steamboat at the time of its annual trip in the 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN. A"i.ASK;A. ^'(>i 
 
 suinnier, altliongli some little, especially articles of food, is bi ought 
 over the dift'erent poitages by means of dogs aud sleds in winter. From 
 these places the natives obtain their supply of ammunition and other 
 articles, such as cloth of various kinds, for making their clothes, which 
 are in pattern such as are worn by civilized people during the warm 
 weather. 
 
 In winter they wear clothes of reindeer skins, which, as stated be- 
 fore, are generally obtained from the natives living nearer the mouth 
 of the river, who seem to be much more expert in the manufacture of 
 their clothing than the Ingaliks. Should these two places be aban- 
 doned the only other sources of obtaining useful articles would be from 
 whites living further down, directly or through other Indians. 
 
 Considerable dour is disposed of to these people, who in many ways 
 have adopted different civilized improvements. All their uncouth and 
 rude cooking utensils have been very generally set aside, and those 
 obtained from the whites adopted in their places. Tea and tobacco are 
 the articles most sought after, and it is the rarest exception for a trade 
 to fall through if either of those articles be offered in exchange for 
 what is considered as an equivalent in value. The habit of drinking 
 tea was acquired during the Russian occupation, and this race has left 
 its imprint on the inhabitants in many other ways. Wherever the Rus- 
 sians had settlements many of the natives were employed by them, 
 and they were invariably treated with the utmost harshness and cruelty, 
 and had it not been from fear many an<l serious difficulties would have 
 occurred ; in fact many murders were indeed committed, oftentimes in- 
 nocent parties being the victims. 
 
 The subdivisions of these Ingaliks are not made, generally, with any 
 regard to a difference in the habits, customs, ceremonies, «&c., as they 
 are all very much alike in these respects, but simply from the different 
 parts of the river which they occupy have they derived different names. 
 For instance, those about Nuklukayet are known by the same name, and 
 so on with the Kaltags, Nalatos, Shageluks, Anviks, &c. As regards 
 those natives living along the Koyukun River, and called by that name, 
 they, by some authors, are not considered as belonging to the Ingaliks, 
 although they speak the same language and resemble them in very many 
 respects. They are, however, considered more warlike, which might be 
 from the fact of their leading a more active life, and by some are con- 
 sidered the most attractive looking Indians of this portion of the 
 country. This last consideration, of course, is a mere matter of fancy, 
 and they might be far more pleasing to the eye than many others, with- 
 out even then producing a favorable impression. 
 
 Each subdivision, or more strictly speaking each village, has its head 
 chief, who is, however, not looked up to with the same veneration as 
 among other tribes, for these people, being very superstitious, have far 
 more respect for the medicine man, or shamans as they are called among 
 them. These individuals are generally very shrewd, and exercise their 
 
10:^ MILITAUY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 tiiU'iits ill ciiriiij; disease, not i'or the f^ood of tlie people, but as a iiieaus 
 ot'li\iii^ lor themselves, consecinentl.v they are oftentimes very uuscru- 
 l)iilons, an<l with such superstitious minds to work on, often do a great 
 deal of liarm onaccount of thus practicing tlieir tricks and mysteries as 
 a trade; bribes, if judiciously oflered, would undoubtedly accomplish all 
 that was required. 
 
 The habitations which are occu[)ied by the ])eople are (juite substan- 
 tially built of logs and hewn timber, generally near the water, and are 
 only partially bullet proof some are partially underground, the last 
 named being met with more and more frequently as you aj)proach the 
 region occupied by the Innuits, from whom they have undoubtedly ac- 
 (piired this method of building. The language si)oken by the Ingaliks 
 is one peculiar to themselves, and in reality is the main mark of dis- 
 tiuctiotj between them and the natives living both above and below 
 them. j\Iany of them have learned considerable of the liussian lan- 
 guage, which, combined with their own tongue, forms a patois which is 
 employed in trading. Xo attempt has been made to improve the con- 
 dition of these natives by the establishment of schools before or since 
 the departure of the Russians, so that even now they continue to live 
 as ignorant as at the time of their earliest intercourse with the wdiites. 
 Very little advancement has been nuide in the way of Christianity, al- 
 though priests of the Greek church have been among them since the 
 earliest times ; yet the natives, while always desirous of being baptized 
 and reckoned as true converts to the faith, nevertheless they have not 
 the smalkstidea of what it all means, and in consequence, no beneficial 
 results accrue, suck as an improvement in moral tone, &c. 
 
 An episode which occurred last year w ill give a very fair idea of 
 what changes are made on these savage minds by prospective salvation. 
 A Kussian priest came up from the mission to Anvik, with the purpose 
 of baptizing a number of Indians, who were to come down from the 
 Shageluk village above and meet him. Previous to this time there had 
 been two trading companies on the river, and one being only just with- 
 drawn the prices given for furs were necessarily immediately lowered, 
 which fact created much feeling among these Indians. As they w ere to 
 meet the i)riest at Anvik, it was considered an excellent opportunity to 
 take revenge on the trader at the same time; consequently a plot w^as 
 arranged by which means several of the men were to be admitted to the 
 store at the same time. The trader was to be bound, and perhaps 
 killed, and the store plumh'red. Fortunately the plan was disclosed 
 by the Anvik Indians, who refused to, lend their aid, and the Indians, 
 finding the trader warned, decided not to make any such attempt. Any 
 outbreak by these men would be in some such underhand way, for a 
 single determined white man can intimidate any number, provided they 
 do not obtain an unexpected advantage. At present, except perhaps iu 
 certain matters concerning the disposal of furs, the most friendly re- 
 lations exist between these Indians and the whites residing iu and pass- 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 103 
 
 iug tlirougli tbeir conutry. iSeveral murders are recorded, the most atro- 
 cious being the massacre at Nulato iu 18j1 by the Koyukuns, which is 
 spoken of as beiug brought on by the blunt manners of a lieutenant in 
 tlie English navy. 
 
 In reality the Indians had been jealous of the whites establishing 
 themselves permanently among them, and had manifested this feeling 
 on two or three different occasions by destroying the improvements 
 made during the summer by the Russians, and abandoned in winter. 
 In 1851, ten years after the post had been established at Nulato, Lieut. 
 J. J. Barnard arrived there in seach of information concerning the lost 
 Franklin party, he being a member of an expedition sent out for that 
 purpose. Instead of politely requesting an audience of an influential 
 chief of the Koyukuns, he sent for him, which was considered an in- 
 dignity by the chief, who immediately set about to obtain satisfaction 
 for the insult. Before arriving at the station a Russian and an Indian 
 companion were killed and said to be eaten, after which, before the 
 attack was made on the whites, the native village near by was set on 
 fire, and the inhabitants shot with arrows as they ran from their houses. 
 Notwithstanding all the noise of this the whites were not aroused, and 
 the commander as well as Lieutenant Barnard were killed almost in 
 their beds in attacking the room occupied by two Russian workmen; 
 one of their number being killed created a panic among them, and they 
 thereupon departed. Lieutenant Barnard died before aid could arrive 
 from Saint Michaels redoubt, and his grave is now seen a short distance 
 to the rear of the old post, which consists now of two or three log houses 
 partially fallen down. Last year a Russian was killed by an Indian 
 living at ISTulato, and the murderer still goes unpunished, though in con- 
 stant fear of being killed or otherwise injured by the whites. This mur- 
 der, though by no means justifiable, is nevertheless accompanied with 
 circumstances more or less extenuating. The Russian, whose name 
 was Ivan Kogenikoff, was held in great fear by all the Indians, not 
 only on account of his naturally quarrelsome disposition, but on ac- 
 count of the very summary manner in which he had avenged a murder 
 occurring farther down the river some years ago, and many of them 
 would have been delighted at the prospect of disposing of him had 
 they dared. One night he was being literally dragged home in a help- 
 less state of intoxication by an Indian whose brother had been killed 
 by a sou of Kogenikoff. The Indian, seeing him so utterly helpless and 
 so completely in his power, struck him on the head with an ax, consid- 
 ering the deed justifiable in revenge for the death of his brother. 
 
 Bows and arrows have been utterly abandoned by these tribes who 
 are provided, generally, with double-barreled shotguns of small caliber, 
 in which a bullet may be used. 
 
104 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 INNUIT TIMIJES. 
 
 This is ii ii;mu' uivcn to tlieinselvcs hv nil tiie luitivcs, who are more 
 coninioiily si)okcii of as Eskimo, aiul as thi'y extend all aloiiji' the shore 
 of the Ar(;tie Ocean, as well as alony the western coasl of Alaska syuth 
 to Monnt Saint Elias, they necessarily consist of a great number of 
 divisions. 
 
 These various branches resemble each other in many particulars, but 
 likewise differ in other respects, accord in j^: to the country which they 
 occupy and the different pursuits followed in obtaining food, «&c. They 
 differ widely from the natives of the interior, who are spoken of as In- 
 dians, not only in customs, habits, numner of living, &c., but even ia 
 their anatomy, showing conclusively that they belong to an entirely 
 different family. Men versed in the science of ethnology, on pickiug 
 up the skull of one of this family can distinguish it instantly from au 
 Indian skull. 
 
 As many as seventeen or eighteen different tribes are mentioned as 
 dwelling along the western coast of Alaska from the neighborhood of 
 the Copper Kiver, including those inhabiting the various islands in 
 Bering Sea and Straits. Of these divisions those living on the island of 
 Kadiak are the most powerful, and at the same time comprise more in- 
 habitants than any other along the coast. They were fermerly con- 
 sidered as Aleuts. But at the time of the first visitors appearing among 
 them they were carrying on an active warfare with the natives dwelling 
 on the Aleutian Islands, and differ from them in energy and spirit, 
 being very much less influenced by contact with the Russians than 
 many of the other tribes. 
 
 Between the island of Kadiak and the Yukon delta six different 
 tribes are mentioned as occupying the intervening country; they re- 
 semble each other very closely, and only differ in certain minute partic- 
 ulars, principally in their vocabularies, certain words being substituted, 
 and slight changes in the terminations of other words being found. 
 
 Those tribes living near the mouth of the different rivers have as- 
 cended these streams to variable distances, as is seen in the case of the 
 so-called Ekogmuts or Ikvogmutes,as they are sometimes called. These 
 natives inhabit the Yukon delta, and are found along the river a dis- 
 tance of about 300 miles from its mouth. The village of Manki, or 
 Makeymute, situated about 40 miles below Anvik, is the most inland 
 village of the Innuits, and is the dividing line between them and the 
 Ingaliks. 
 
 The tribes along the shore of Norton Sound are called Mahlemuts 
 and Unaligmuts or Unaleets, and are important in the fact of their 
 living in the neighborhood of Saint Michael's, and having been thrown 
 in direct intercourse with the whites both Russian and American since 
 the establishment of a post at that place. The term '' Mahlemut" is often 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 105 
 
 applit'd to all the Innuits, both along the river and vicinity of Saint 
 Michael's as well. 
 
 In regard to the general characteristics of these different tribes, it 
 may be stated that their conii)lexions are brown, not the copper color 
 generally ascribed to the Indian, this color being influenced in shade, 
 more or less, by exposure to the sun and b^^ a lack of proper attention 
 to regular bathing." They are generally of average height, very often 
 exceeding this, and the men are well built and possess great muscular 
 power, enabling them to lift almost inci edible loads. As a rule they 
 are good-natured, willing to work, and are not easily made angry. They 
 are not warlike, and as a rule are very cowardly indeed, being not only 
 in great fear of the Indians of the interior, but they have the great- 
 est respect for the whites in certain villages where there has been a 
 trader among them. One determined man can do exactly as he pleases, 
 as is shown by the high-handed treatment to which they are at times 
 subjected. It is said that on the mysterious disappearance of any arti- 
 cle the trader would start through the village with a whip, slashing 
 here and there until the article was returned. This undoubtedly is 
 somewhat exaggerated, though they have very much more respect for a 
 man of this kind, being accustomed to such treatment ever since their 
 first intercourse with white people. A peculiarity of these Innuits is the 
 growth of hair on the face and body; forming a striking contrast in 
 this respect with other native tribes. 
 
 The tribe living on the Yukon is said to differ in this respect more 
 markedly than any other, many of the men having very heavy mustaches 
 and beards. The singular custom of wearing labrets is in vogue among 
 them. A hole is pierced on each side of the lower lip, just below the 
 angle of the mouth, and through this is worn some sort of ornament of 
 bone, ivory, or stone. This prevails among the men, while the women 
 adorn themselves by tattooing the chin, which is often the only means 
 of telling them from the men, except, perhaps, the cut of their fur gar- 
 ments. As a general rule the kind of clothing in use among them since 
 the earliest times is retained by them, instead of adopting the civilized 
 garments, which, at best, could only be used with any degree of comfort 
 during the summer. These native garments consist of a coat made of 
 reindeer skin, and extending almost to the knee, with a hood to be 
 thrown over the head, with a trimming generally of wolf, or other long 
 fur, which answers as a protection to the face against the wind. 
 Breeches are worn below this, which are continuous with the foot cover- 
 ing in the female garment, but separate as worn by the men. The boots 
 are made entirely of deerskin except the soles, which are of the thick 
 skin of the seal, and capable of withstanding considerable wear. These 
 are worn with a thick layer of cloth, or straw, around and beneath the 
 foot, to absorb the moisture, and protect the sole from injury when step- 
 ping on rough ground, &c. A certain kind of boot for use in the water is 
 found among them, made of seal or fish skin, which is almost, if not fully, 
 
106 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCK IN ALASKA. 
 
 as impervious as those, iiia<le of rubber by more civilizt'd i)eoi)le. lu re- 
 pud to the coat called a "parka" by the whites dwelling in the coun- 
 try, the only dilVerence between that worn by the women and the men 
 is the way it is shaped at the bottom. That for the men is cut almost 
 straight around, while the other is cut np at the side, forming a semi- 
 circular tlap extending below the knee in front and behind. 
 
 White men living in the conntry, when exposing themselves to the 
 climate in journeys among the different villages, invariably use these 
 parkies, the custom beiug as with the natives, to wear two; the one 
 nearest the skin having the fur side in, while the reverse is practiced 
 with the outer one. 
 
 The country along the river, which is occupied by these natives, does 
 not differ materially from that farther up, except in the timber. Trees 
 of considerable size gradually disap])ear until small shrubs only remain, 
 and down toward the region of the delta everything in the Avay of trees 
 disappears, presenting nothing to the eye except a broad expanse of 
 country. This consists everywhere of a marshy prairie land, known as 
 tundra, thickly covered with moss, and only fertile to a small extent, 
 even after much care is taken to drain it. 
 
 On the island of Saint Michaels, where a trading station has been es- 
 tablished for many years, vegetables of different kinds are produced, 
 such as turnips, radishes, and lettuce. The soil here does not differ 
 from that along the lower portion of the river, except it may be less 
 moist, so these same vegetables ought to succeed as well there if the 
 same attention be paid to their cultivation. 
 
 Along the left bank of the river the country is everywhere flat, 
 while a chain of hills extends along the right bank almost to the delta, 
 which seems to have the effect of turning the river away from the i)oint 
 where it would naturally seek the sea, and bending it for some little 
 distance to the south. 
 
 These natives occupy i)ermanent villages, situated, in the case of the 
 Ekogmuts along the river, and built close to the water's edge. The 
 houses are of two kinds, one for use in summer and the other to be oc- 
 cupied when the weather is colder. The former are built mostly above 
 ground, of logs and hewn timber, with the roof generally more or less 
 covered with dirt, with a hole in the center for the passage of smoke. 
 The winter houses are built of logs, either entirely underground, as when 
 built on the side of a hill, which is a favorite site, or covered entirely 
 with earth piled u]) around them. The entrance consists of a hole just 
 large enough to accommodate a human beiug on his hands and knees, 
 which is closed by means of a skin of some sort to keep out the cold. 
 The ai)i)roach to this is by means of a covered hall-way, as it were, 
 which answers the same purpose as a storm door in use in cold civil- 
 ized countries. The summer houses would be only partially bullet 
 proof, while the true barraboras last described would undoubtedly re- 
 sist the passage of such small missiles. But if anything like artillery' 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 107 
 
 ^vel■e einployed against tlieiii they would uecessarily have to be abaii- 
 doiied. 
 
 Tlie villages of the coast tribes are generally situated uear the mouths 
 of rivers or iu some sheltered bay or cove, close to the water, thus cou- 
 venieutly placed for tishiiig and comnmnicatiou iu their boats. Several 
 tlilferent varieties of canoe or boat are iu use among them, which are 
 used according to what is to be accomplished and the character of the 
 water near their villages. 
 
 Along the river a strongly built and well braced birch-bark canoe is 
 used, generally of such a size as to accommodate only a single man, 
 though some are of larger build. These are built bj' the Ingakiks liv- 
 ing further up the river, and traded to them iu exchange for seal skins, 
 oil, walrus hide for making rope, etc. Besides these canoes there are 
 other varieties peculiar to the Innuits, which are the only ones used by 
 the natives who dwell iu the immediate vicinity of the sea. One is a 
 regular boat, consisting of a heavy frame- work of wood bound together 
 with hide and covered with seal skins, which are carefully prepared, 
 nicely oiled, and sewed together; the other is of smaller build, but 
 constructed on the same principle, except that it is everywhere covered 
 in with the seal skin, only a single hole being left in the middle for the 
 occupant. The former is known by the Russians as a bidarra, and is 
 very useful in carrying freight, etc., while the latter, called " kyak" by 
 the natives themselves, is known as a bidarka among the Russiaus. 
 
 A modification of the kyak is often seen copied, it is said, from the 
 Aleuts, consisting of an exactly similar construction, but with two or 
 three holes for the accommodation of that many individuals. Both 
 varieties are extremely serviceable, especially in making journeys which 
 are not prolonged, for after some service the skin becomes soaked and 
 the boat has to be taken out of the water and allowed to dry. (Consid- 
 erable practice is required to even sit in one of the kyaks without turn- 
 ing over, but to one accustomed to their use journeys can be made in 
 the roughest kind of water, and a very fair rate of speed be maintained 
 without extraordinary exertion. Both a single and double bladed pad- 
 dle are used in propelling these kyaks, while resort is often had to a 
 sail when traveling in the bidarras. 
 
 Many wonderful anecdotes are told of the feats of seamanship performed 
 by these natives, who wear, when in rough water or when it rains, a water- 
 proof shirt, which is fastened to the rim of the hole in which he sits, thus 
 preventing any water from entering the canoe Some are said to be able 
 to turn completely over, bottom upwards, and right themselves by means 
 of their paddles. Though not prepared for this performance they are 
 very liable to be drowned on account of their feet and legs being con- 
 fined in the boat, as happened to an individual who was rescued from 
 such a predicament shortly before our arrival at Saint I\Iichaels, 
 
 Stories are also told of some being actually thrown, by way of sport, 
 rom the top of high rocks into the water, and by a skillful use of the 
 
108 MIMTAKV RECONNAISSANCK IN AF.ASKA. 
 
 padillo coming- up safclv auaiii oiilv to rcjx'at tln' pj'rforinaiice. Their 
 only iiu-aiis of (•(•immuiicatioii in winter is l»y sltMlsdiawn l>y(l()«;s, which 
 are able to travel very considerable «listances without re(jnirin<;' very 
 much t()o<l. The do^- is the only domestic? animal found among tliem, 
 and, as is seen, he answers every pur[)ose for which a draujjht animal 
 is useful anionjj civilized i)eople, and does not recpiire any (!ai-e what- 
 ever in keeping;'. 
 
 In rejjjard to the whole number of natives of this family living on the 
 Yukon Iviver, they are variously estimated by different authors; one 
 census report puts the number at l,33o, whicdi does not include those 
 living within the «lelta of the river. Tiiis is approximately true, being 
 somewhat in excess of the actual number if anything. In the delta proper 
 there are probably about 300 souls, and between this point and the 
 furthest village of the Mahlemuts there are undoubtedly as many more. 
 Among these those cai)able of bearing arms are provided with weapons 
 of some descrii)tion. The gun most universally seen is a long, double- 
 barreled shotgun of small (;aliber, in whi<di both shot aiid bullet may 
 be nsed, according to the nature of the game hunted. 
 
 Along the Lower Yukon large game is not found to any great extent, 
 r indeer and bears being about the only animals hunted, but there is 
 the greatest quantity of water fowl. Ducks, geese, and swans, of almost 
 every variety, breed all along the river in fact, but the delta seems to be 
 a favorite resort for the geese, which are killed in great numbers, and 
 are salted, in barrels, by the white residents, for winter consumption. 
 The natives relj' almost entirely on fish, both fresh and dried, which 
 furnishes them their chief article of food, and provision is made for 
 winter by storing away sufficient quantities of the dried article to last 
 the season through. The custom prevails among the river natives to 
 bury the tish and allow them to remain there until sufficiently putrid 
 to suit their taste, when they are eaten wMth a great deal of relish. The 
 coast natives vary their diet of fish Avith not only reindeer, but with seal 
 meat and oil. 
 
 Walrus are not found in any numbers along this portion of the coast, 
 so that no reliance is ])lace<l on them for food. The beluga, or white 
 whale, is killed in considerable numbers near the mouth of the Yukon. 
 This is a small whale, which enters the shallow water for breeding pur- 
 poses, and when the tide falls the natives attack it. and secure a great 
 many witlutut much labor. The flesh is eaten, and the oil and blubber 
 also preserved for food, and to be burned in their rude lamps, which 
 consist of a small open vessel containing oil, into which a wick of moss 
 or cloth is dii)ped and a light applied. The amount of light secured 
 from each does not in any way compare with the brilliancy of a tallow 
 candle, and the odor which is generated by the burning oil is far from 
 agreeable, especially when confined to the close limits of one of their 
 underground houses. 
 
 These tribes have no chief in the strict sense of the term, although 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 109 
 
 there are individuals ainoiig them who exercise more or less influence 
 through accumulated wealth or otherwise without necessarily lieing en- 
 dowed with the si)iritnal ])owers, which the shamans are supposed to 
 possess. With no real head they have not the unity of the majority of 
 Indian tribes; consequently, in the event of hostilities, do not all com- 
 bine with tlie same readiness. 
 
 Many superstitions prevail among them, and the utmost confldence 
 is placed in the sayings and i)redictions of the shamans, who resort to 
 all kinds of devices in the way of sleigiit-of-hand performances to make 
 their acts more mysterious. As a compliment to one of these indivi.l. 
 uals, he was asked to predict Iiow long- we would have to wait at Saint 
 MichaePs redoubt before the arrival of the schooner " Leo." The reply 
 was made that if on a certain evening we would go to the village he 
 would invoke the spiritual aid and relieve our minds of any anxiety. 
 On the evening in question we assembled at the "Casine," a public 
 building, built on the same principle as the dwelling-houses, with one 
 of which every village is provided, and after many of the natives had 
 seated themselves around the shaman, accompanied by a monotonous 
 singing and drum beating, began to call in the aid of the spirits. Finally 
 when everything was ready a small blue bead was taken, crushed, and 
 sent toward the schooner, the announcement being made at the same 
 time, if the bead returned whole the vessel had been reached. A bead 
 was resurrected shortly afterwards, unfortunately of a different size and 
 shai)e, which, however, was not observed by the natives present, and 
 the answer obtained from it was that the arrival would happen before 
 another moon, or some such indetinite and Delphian-like response. 
 Several other tricks were performed of a more childish nature even; so 
 plain were they in fact that it seems really incredible that the simplest- 
 minded native could be deceived by them. 
 
 There are very few whites dwelling in the country occupied by these 
 tribes, and they for the most part are traders who are emploj^ed by the 
 Alaska Commercial Company, At the Mission, a village on the river, 
 only a short distance below Anvik, there is a store kept by an Aleut, 
 the brother of the Greek priest, who had a church here as well. From 
 this point supplies are obtained by all the natives living above and be- 
 low on the river. The chief articles which are sought after in trade are 
 tea and tobacco, though considerable flour is also sold, and many other 
 plain articles in the way of cloth, cheap hats, &:c. 
 
 The only sources for ammunition are the different stations along the 
 river, which, in the event of any difliculty with our own Government, 
 would be denied them. Some miles below the mission is another post, 
 formerly occupied by the liussians, which is known as Andreievsky. 
 This is the home of a trader, who in winter has been accustomed to make 
 long journeys among the different villages, about the Yukon Deltn, dis- 
 posing of various articles in exchange for furs. 
 
 Near the very western limit of the Uphoon mouth is Koatlik, a very 
 
110 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 small villa{?o iiuloed, l)iit the homo oiaii old Iiussiaii who has the usual 
 amount ortradiujj; nuiterial. About 70 miles north of the Uphoou moutli, 
 wliicli is the one generally, if not always, employed by the whites, is 
 the island of Saint Michael's, on the eastern end of which is a settle- 
 ment of the sanu* name, establishe<l by the Russians in IS.'i.'J. The site 
 for a settlement has many drawbacks, lirst and foremost the lack of 
 water, the supply being brought in boats from the mainland, a distance 
 of 3 miles, and a scarcity of fuel, but it has the advantage of being in a 
 sheltered bay and the nearest point to the mouth of the Yukon, which 
 vessels of even average draught can approach on account of the exten- 
 sive shoal, formed by deposits brought down by the river. This place is 
 the heaihiuarters of the trading company, and thedepot of all supplies, 
 guns, ammunition, &c., that are taken into the river and disposed of to 
 the natives living along the coast adjacent, and Avould necessarily be an 
 objective point were the motive prompting an outbreak one of robbery. 
 The natives, as a rule, are very kindly dioposed toward the whites, and 
 although many threatened attacks are often spoken of, none of late 
 years have been made. These are generally agitated after a free in- 
 dulgence in liquor, which is occasionally obtained from whalers and 
 other vessels, or at the instigation of some individual whe has been 
 thrashed for stealing or has suffered some imaginary wrong. 
 
 In 1830 an attack was made on the post, but was repulsed without 
 any injury being accomplished by the commander of the fort. The 
 natives indulging in this were the Unaligmuts, who, with the Mahle- 
 muts, are generally a worse class of men than those living on the river, 
 on account of their long intercourse with unscrupulous traders, who 
 make every attempt to obtain the greatest quantity in exchange for the 
 smallest amount of the vilest liijuor or other articles equally contra- 
 band. 
 
 Since the year 1855 it is said that not a single white man has been 
 injured, or even threatened, by the natives on the lower river, who 
 certainly do manifest a spirit of abject submission. At that time there 
 was a considerable Russian settlement at Andreievsky and Ekogmut 
 village near by, many of the inhabitants of which were employed as 
 workmen at the station. Several of the whites had gone on a journey 
 up the river, when the natives attacked the place, while its few in- 
 mates were taking the customary steam or hot-air bath, and murdered 
 them as they came out. A boy escaped and finally reached Saint 
 Michael's, which was temporarily in charge of the Russian kogenikoff, 
 previously spoken of as being murdered last year in the neighborhood 
 of Nulato. He, with one or two others, set out immediately in a small 
 schooner or "barka," as it was called, for the scene of the massacre 
 provided with two howitzers loaded with scraps of iron, nails, &c. He 
 demanded that the murderers be handed over or he would fire on the 
 village. The natives showed no inclination to obey, thinking the guns 
 would not go off, but were soon brought to a realizing sense of their 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. Ill 
 
 error by the discharge of the guns, which killed a number. The Kus- 
 sians, not satisfied with this, are said to have attacked the remainder 
 with clubs, and to have killed many women and children. The result, 
 though hardly justifying the means, has been very wonderful and of 
 great benefit to the whites who may have occasion to enter the Terri- 
 tory. 
 
 As far as a universal outbreak is concerned, such an event could not 
 well occur, as there is not sutiicient union among members of any tribe 
 to occasion it, nor are there whites enough in the country' to justify it. 
 
 In the event of troops entering the country, necessarily by sea, for 
 the punishment of outrages by members of tribes, it is more than likely 
 that the offenders would be im mediately" given uj), or, if not, no other 
 tribe would be willing to bear any portion of the blame, and certainly 
 would not unite with them as allies. 
 
 The only unusual campaign supplies would be boats, and if a winter 
 sojourn were made native garments would be required. 
 
 AI.EUTIANS. 
 
 Under this heading is considered a large family, differing in many re- 
 spects from any before spoken of, which occupies the grouj) of islands 
 extending to the westward from the Alaska peninsula, and forming a 
 boundary, as it were, between Bering Sea and the Pacific Ocean. There 
 are one or two settlements on the peninsula itself; and the Pribylov 
 group, comprising the islands of Saint Paul and Saint George, also is 
 inhabited by members of this same family. 
 
 In a military sense their consideration is of little importance, for they 
 are more than half civilized, about a fifth of their whole number being 
 half breeds while many others have necessarily more or less white blood 
 in their veins. They are, however, connected with the most lucrative and 
 chief commercial interests of the entire Territory, namely, the fur seal 
 and sea otter, and being met with on our returning by sea will be spoken 
 of in this connection as completing the various different tribes living in 
 the country which we met. 
 
 The word '• Aleut" is of obscure origin, not belonging, it is said, to their 
 language, but derived from some other dialect, how or when it first 
 came into use being unknown. The name formerly used by themselves 
 in being translated signifies " men of the east." Among all of the tribes 
 throughout the Territory of Alaska this one family has not only been 
 longer in direct intercourse with white men, but has been more throuoghly 
 changed from their original condition than any others. Before the arrival 
 of the Eussiaus among them they are said to have been full of life and 
 spirit, and fond of all sorts of enjoyments; whereas now on account of the 
 cruel treatment to which they were subjected, being looked upon and 
 treated as mere slaves, their spirit seems broken and their character 
 completely changed. With all this came likewise a complete change in 
 
112 MILITAHY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 habits ami custoiiKs and ivlij^ion even, for they are said to have liad cer- 
 tain ceremonies which lesembhMl a relijiion more eh)sel.v than that of 
 any other tribes. Their condition indeed is bettered no donbt by the 
 civilizinji: inflneuces, bnt the same resnlt might have been accomplished 
 by less heroic measures. They were savages undoubtedly before their 
 tirst intercourse with tlie Kussians, and had manners and habits, which 
 could not be considered otherwise, as for instance, their dwellings. 
 These were built entirely under ground and of a suflicient capacity to 
 accommodate as many as two hundred or more people, families being 
 divided oft" from each other by means of very rude partitions. Entrance 
 was effected thnmgh the roof, by means of ladders, one house being 
 provided with several such uieaus of entry. IJeing so protected from 
 the wind and cold, these houses were necessarily very warn), so confined 
 in fact that no clothes were required, and the inhabitants are said to 
 have gone about for the most part entirely naked. Their food consisted 
 of fish of various kinds, flesh of the seal ami sea otter, whale blubber, 
 sea-weed, wild parsnips, different sorts of berries, &c. 
 
 Certain records and legends of the liussiaus and the people them- 
 selves would tend to show that they numbered at one time as many as 
 25,000 souls, which is probably a too high au estimate, the best authori- 
 ties considering that at no time could they have numbered more than 
 10,000 at the most. Their many dances and peculiar festivals, as de- 
 scribed by Bruiaminov, a very earnest and hard-working Russian 
 bishop, are especially interesting, inasmuch as all the masks and 
 other relics used in their celebration have been destroyed, whenever 
 found, by the Russian priest, so that now the object or idea involved is 
 more or less wrapped in obscurity. The Aleut is of average size, per- 
 haps rather below the medium, with au expression of countenance gen- 
 erally described as pertaining to the Japanese. The complexion is of 
 light brown, hair black and coarse, and the beard generally scanty. 
 As a general thing their chests and arms are well i)roportioned, while 
 their legs, from the i)osition which they assume so constantly in their 
 skin boats, are often somewhat curved. They are willing to work, and, 
 excei)t when under the influence of liquor, the desire for which is one 
 of their failings, they are mild, good-tempered, and in every respect 
 pleasant to have dealings with. Though much addicted to the use of 
 liquor, and as a general thing craving it on all occasions, crimes of a 
 serious nature are of very rare occurrence, and that of murder is scarcely 
 known. Formerly the number of wives w^as not lin)ited, the most in- 
 fluential and respected (and they were the best hunters) having the 
 greatest number. Their ideas of anything like marriage, as is the 
 case with almost all the Innuit tribes as well, were very crude, and the 
 wife or wives were generally at the disposal of visitors or guests. At 
 the present time they have only one wife, and they live together with 
 their families in separate houses. In settlements where there are white 
 people dwelling as well, small huts of civilized build are generally used, 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 115 
 
 tliougli the barrabara or underground house is very much in use, espr 
 cially iu remote villages. 
 
 Their original native dress is described as consisting of a coat or parka, 
 made with tight sleeves, and sutticiently long to reach below the knees, 
 of some sort of fur or bird skins, ^o trousers were worn, but the boots 
 came up to tlie knees. In wet weather a sort of water-proof shirt, made 
 of the intestines of the sea lion, is still worn by them. Besides this last- 
 mentioned garment, the original native dress has everywhere been dis- 
 carded and civilized clothes adopted, except iu a few instances, where 
 the poverty of the individual will not admit of such an expenditure. 
 This is especially the case at those villages where the whites have set- 
 tled. And as it is through the efibrts of the natives that the fur-bear- 
 ing animals are secured, every aid and encouragement possible is given 
 them. 
 
 Schools were established among them years ago by certain Russian 
 priests who were more earnest in their w^ork than some others, so 
 that some few learned to read and write. Bishop Vruiaminov made 
 an Aleutian grammer,and through this means many have been partially- 
 educated. Of late years, though several educated members of their own 
 family have been admitted into the priesthood, no very rapid strides 
 have been made in the way of education. The inordinate desire for al- 
 coholic stimulants of some sort, as stated before, has been their very 
 worst fault and the greatest drawback toward their making more rapid 
 progress in the right direction. 
 
 The introduction of liquor of any sort is prohibited, consequently in 
 order to properly celebrate festive occasions resort has to be had to a 
 decoction of domestic manufacture. This is made from sugar as a prin- 
 cipal ingredient, with the addition of flour, and hops if they can obtain 
 them. The whole is placed in a barrel, tightly closed and then allowed 
 to ferment. As the drink resulting is only made when required, time 
 is not allowed for the fermentation to be completed, but they consume 
 it just as quick as the proper strength is attained, with all its horrible 
 taste. 
 
 When an individual returns from a successful hunt he purchases 
 whatever articles he may need in the way of food and clothing, and 
 then invites his friends in to partake of his hospitality, in the form of 
 this home made beverage. This is the occasion of a big spree, which • 
 invariably terminates with violent disputes, though, as stated before, 
 it is said that there is not a single instance recorded of a life being lost 
 or of any one sulfering severe bodily injury, except as a result of a fre- 
 quent repetition of the same dissipation, and the exposure consequent 
 upon having their sensations so blunted as to fail to protect themselves 
 against the weather. 
 
 The chief article of food of the people is undoubtedly fish ; the va- 
 rious kinds, such as cod, halibut, salmon, and trout, being obtained as 
 they come in season. Besides these there are many water-fowl and 
 S. Ex. 2 8 
 
114 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 ebell-tish as well, wUicU serve to vary their diet. Many articles of food 
 are also obtained from traders, such as tea, hard bread, flour, sugar, and 
 other little neessarie.s, and these have been so long; in use that the peo- 
 l)le would find it very embarrassing to do without them now. 
 
 The eountry inhabited by these people consists, as i)reviously stated, 
 of a long chain of islands extending out into the open sea far to the 
 westward of the mainland of America. The islands vary in size, but 
 resemble each other in their very mountainous character. All are un- 
 doubtedly of volcanic origin, on several of which there are craters, 
 whii'h are, at the present time, considered as active. The various set- 
 tlements of the people are scattered throughout the group of islands, the 
 most western of all being Chichagov, on the island of Attoo. In for- 
 mer times this village was very prosperous, but is now one of the poor- 
 est, in a i)ecuniary view, of all the settlements, on account of the gradual 
 falling off in numbers of the sea otter. This animal which furnishes the 
 beautiful and very expensive fur, was originally caught in great num- 
 bers in the vicinity of Attoo, and as the exchange of its skin for neces- 
 sary articles was the only means of living to the n atives, they have 
 consiMiuently suffered, having no other resource to fall back on. Had 
 it not been that they are amply supplied by nature with the actual 
 necessities of life in the way of food, such as different kinds of fish, 
 starvation would have been imminent. The capture and sale of the sea 
 otter skins being one of the utmost importance to this section of coun- 
 try, the means of taking them is very interesting, as sho wing a promi- 
 nent trait in the Aleutian character as well, namely', unseltishness. 
 
 The animal is generally found on certain banks some distance from 
 the land, and is hunted by a number attacking him on different sides. 
 They start out in their skin boats with provisions sufficient to last them 
 for several days, and when arriving at the place generally frequented 
 })y the otter, a long line is made of boats, and a slow and quiet advance 
 is made. When the animal is discovered, either asleep or quietly swim- 
 ming about with his nose just above the water, an effort is made to sur- 
 round him, so that in coming up after diving he may come within the 
 circle of boats. Spears are the weapons used against them, as it is 
 thought the tiring of guns would frighten them away entirely. It is 
 rarely the case that the first wound kills him; but the animal soon be- 
 comes tired out with the continuous diving, and is then readily secured. 
 
 In illustration of the unselfishness of the Aleut it has been the custom 
 to give the skin to the man who strikes the first blow, so that after this 
 the others can have no interest, but nevertheless devote themselves in- 
 defatigably in trying to secure the prey. If it cannot be determined 
 about the time of the first blow the one hitting nearest the head obtains 
 the prize, and if they are of equal distance, the one on the right is 
 granted the skin. 
 
 Between the islands of Attoo and Atkha, where the next settlement 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 115 
 
 now stands, there were formerly several on the different islands inter- 
 veningf, but these now have all been abandoned. 
 
 The island of Atkha was originalh' a boundary line between two so- 
 called divisions of this tribe, which at present, on account of the ad- 
 mixture of Russian blood and other causes, do not exist; the chief dis- 
 tinction in former times was a difference of dialect, there being certain 
 terminations and words not common to both. This must have been 
 quite marked, for the originator of the grammar, previously spoken of, 
 was obliged to form two, one for use among the residents about Oon- 
 alaska and the other for the Atkhans. 
 
 Quite a large settlement is found on the island of Atkha, and the 
 inhabitants are i^rosperous in consequence of the number of sea otter 
 captured annually in their neighborhood, being thus, as it were, wealthy. 
 They buy many articles of the traders and indulge in many of the civ- 
 ilized luxuries, such as clothes, &c. Among other industries, besides 
 being considered the best and most successful hunters after the otter, 
 they are said not only to surpass every other settlement of this family, 
 but every other race in the world in the manufacture of various baskets 
 and ornaments out of grasses. 
 
 During the occupation of the Russians Atkha was a place of consid- 
 erable importance as a central point, but since the transfer of the Ter- 
 ritory, other interests have made a change necessary. 
 
 The next settlement to the eastward is situated on Oomnak Island, 
 and is known as Nikolsky. The inhabitants devote themselves chiefly 
 to hunting the sea-otter; they are generally quite successful, and in 
 consequence prosperous. 
 
 Proceeding in the same direction, Oonalaska Island is next met with, 
 the largest and in many respects the most important of the entire group, 
 inasmuch as on the northern shore, in a very beautiful inlet called Cap- 
 tain's Harbor, is situated Ilinlink, or Oonalaska, the headquarters of all 
 the commercial interests of this part of the world. There is a settlement 
 here of about four hundred people, which includes a school-house, 
 church, residence of the priest, custom house, traders' warehouses and 
 dwellings, and many frame buildings, erected for the use of the natives, 
 besides numerous barraboras. Here is seen almost every sign of civil- 
 ized improvements, and among other things the novel sight of domestic 
 cattle was i)resented to us. 
 
 The climate is by no means severe in this part of the country, and 
 sufficient grass is found almost all the year through to support stock 
 of any sort. The natives in the vicinity are very much improved by 
 long intercourse with the whites, and it is said that almost half their 
 number are able to read and write — the Aleutian language principally. 
 
 Besides this large settlement there are several others of less impor- 
 tance, chiefly on the northwestern coast. The island being so indented 
 and cut up with bays and inlets affords ample space for numerous ex- 
 cellent village sites. Makushin, Koshigin, and Cheruovsky, three small 
 
116 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 villay:cs to the west of lliuliiik, are closely allied iu interests, as sending 
 out each season hnnters along with those from the. last-named place. 
 The natives are conveyed on one of the company's vessels to Sannakh 
 Island, which is the principal resort for the otter, and when the season 
 is over again brought back to their homes. 
 
 To the south of ( )onalaska is a small island, on which is the settlement 
 of Borka, wliose inhabitants are considered the neatest, most orderly, 
 and cleanest of the whole family. This condition of affairs is said to be 
 due to the inlluence of an old Kussian trader and his wife, who have 
 lived among them for some time and set them this good example. 
 
 lietween Oonalaska and Oonimak Island on the east there is a pass 
 generally resorted to by vessels in going north. This is sufticiently wide 
 and deep, but on account of numerous small islands and the great rate 
 at which the tide rushes* through vessels are often thrown in great 
 danger, especially when wind and tide are opposite. In the vicinity of 
 this i)ass are the settlements of Akutan, Akoou, and Avatanak. Each 
 is situated on an island of the same name. 
 
 An industry among the inhabitants, besides hunting the sea-otter, 
 is the capturing of the sea-lion, the hide of which is used in making the 
 bidarkas. 
 
 The next settlements are in close proximity to the peninsula of Aliaska, 
 being distributed among the different small islands, principally along 
 the southern coast. The largest is called Belkoosky, situated on the 
 peninsula and iu close proximity to the best seaotter grounds found 
 throughout this region. The other villages in order of size are Ounga 
 Protassov, Korovinsky, Nikolaievsky, and Vosnessensky. Almost the 
 sole industry is the capture of the sea-otter, which is obtained in such 
 uun)bers as to make the inhabitants too luxurious, so that almost all 
 their earnings are sciuandered as soon as obtained. 
 
 Directly north of the island of Oonalaska, a distance of about 200 
 miles, is situated the Prybilov group, consisting of the islands of Saint 
 George and Saint Paul. These are inhabited by members of the Aleu- 
 tian tribe, and their chief occupation is in connection with the capture 
 of the fur-seal. All rights, privileges, «&c., in regard to the taking of 
 this animal on these islands are under the control of the Alaska Com- 
 mercial Company, Avho, in turn, are restricted both in the methods em- 
 ployed and the number annually killed, agents are employed to carry 
 out the laws of the Government in this respect, although the interests 
 of the company are so closely linked with the killing of a judicious num- 
 ber that in reality the cori)oration becomes its own guard. The limit 
 of the law is 100,000 young males, but as the demand of the market 
 will not always justify this amount, the number actually killed falls con- 
 siderably below this each year. 
 
 The natives living on these islands have become very civilized, and 
 have adopted many of the improvements of modern life. Their villages 
 are laid out iu streets, and besides the school-house, church, and other 
 
 J 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 117 
 
 buildings, consist principally of cottages, which have taken the place, 
 to a great extent, of the barraboras, ami a fair condition of neatness 
 everywhere prevails. It is said that the natives now living there are 
 descendants of those formerly brought from the Aleutian group proper 
 by the Russians to conduct their seal interests, as the Prybilov Islands 
 were originally uninhabited. From constant practice and training from 
 their very youth the capture of the seal and skinning and preserving 
 of the skins have been reduced hx them to almost a science, so that 
 were the whites deprived of their aid considerable embarrassment 
 would be occasioned. 
 
 In regard to the entire number of people included under this head- 
 ing they have been estimated at 1,890. This does not include the half- 
 breeds or Creoles, as ihey are called, who of themselves are numbered 
 at 479. Their entire number has slowly decreased since the advent of 
 the whites and the introduction of intoxicating liquors. 
 
 On account of the dampness of the climate, though never very cold, 
 many of the adults die in the winter of pneumonia, brought on by ex- 
 posure; and the various other lung diseases are especially prevalent 
 among the children. 
 
 In regard to communication between the different islands, their only 
 means, except through the aid of the whites, is their skin boats, which 
 are the only kind used. These, like those in use among the luuuits, 
 consist of a frame work of some light wood securely bound together 
 with thongs, and everywhere covered in with dressed skin of the sea- 
 lion, a hole being left in the center large enough to accommodate the 
 occupant. Some are built with two or three holes, and resemble 
 the one previously described, except in the number of occupants they 
 are able to contain. These bidarkas, as they are called by the Rus- 
 sians, are very light, and are propelled with great ease and at a consid- 
 erable rate of speed by means of paddles with a single or double blade, 
 according to the fancy of the individual. 
 
 As stated at the beginning of this description, the Aleuts are of little 
 importance in a military sense, as the question of active hostilities is 
 one which will probably never come up, simply on account of the nature 
 of the race. They were so long under the sway of the Russians and 
 were so completely subdued that now no indignity could be put upon 
 them sufBcieutly harsh to occasion serious resistance. 
 
 The men are, as a rule, well provided with arms of some description. 
 Those most frequently observed are a double-barreled shotguu, of small 
 caliber, in which shot or a bullet may be used. Should it ever become 
 necessary to carry on a campaign against this people troops would 
 necessarily have to be brought to the country in vessels, and as the 
 villages for the most part are situated in the deep and sheltered inlets, 
 a very near approach can, in almost every instance, be effected. Noth- 
 ing in the way of unusual supplies would be needed, except, perhaps, a 
 number of small boats, which would be greatly aided by a small steam 
 
118 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 launch as well. Very few of the houses are substantial enough to re- 
 sist tlie passajje of bullets, and should heavier missiles be employed 
 their destnietion would be only a matter of a short time. 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT. 
 
 Vancouver Barracks, Washington Territory, 
 
 May 12, 1884. 
 After a careful arrangement of the data on the topography of the 
 country passed through, with special reference to the bouiulary line 
 between tlie Territory of Alaska and British America, it has been deter- 
 mined that the main village of one tribe, Klat-olklin, supposed to be 
 in Alaska, is situated withiu the English possessions; consequently that 
 tribe will not be included in the following summary of the names and 
 members of the tribes met with in this portion of the United States: 
 
 Tongas, about 600 
 
 Cape Fox, about 250 
 
 Stickeens, about 800 
 
 Sitkas, about 1 , 000 
 
 Ilootznahoo, about 700 
 
 Hoonahs, about 700 
 
 Auks, about 700 
 
 Cbilkats, about 980 
 
 Tadoosh, about 50 
 
 Fort Yukons, about 100 
 
 Tananabs, about 500 
 
 Ingalik tribes, about 1,350 
 
 Inuuit tribes, about 1,900 
 
 Aleuts, about 1,890 
 
 11,520 
 
 Only those Innnits living along the Y'ukon River within the delta and 
 northward along the coast to near the Oonalakleet River are included 
 in this list, and about 400 half breeds (Aleut and Russian living on the 
 Aleutian group are also excluded. 
 
 The whole number of natives met with is, therefore, about 11,520. 
 The tribes met with along the river east of the boundary are : 
 
 Tabkeesh 50 
 
 Ayans 200 
 
 Takons 100 
 
 Klatolklins 100 
 
 Concerning the last named tribe it may be stated that their village is 
 but a short distance from the boundary line as determined, and that the 
 trading station about a mile further down the river, and now abandoned, 
 is within the Territory of Alaska. 
 Respectfully submitted. 
 
 GEO. F. WILSON, 
 First Lieutenant and Assistant iSurgeon, United States Army. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 119 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Headquarters Department of the Columbia, 
 
 Vancouver Barracks, Washington Territory, April 7, 1883. 
 First Lieut. Fred. ScH^YATKA, 
 
 Third Cavalry, Aid- de- Camp ; 
 
 Sir : In view of the frequent reports of the disturbance of the peace 
 between the whites and Indians in Alaska, and the indications that the 
 present condition of atiairs must lead to serious hostilities between the 
 two elements in the near future, you are hereby directed to proceed to 
 that Territory for the purpose of gathering all information that can be 
 obtained that would be valuable and important, especially to the mili- 
 tary branch of the Government. 
 
 You will ascertain as far as practicable the number, character, and 
 disposition of all natives living- in that Territory, how subdivided into 
 tribes or bauds, the section of country they inhabit, their relations to 
 each other, and especially their disposition toward the Eussian Govern- 
 ment in the past, and the feeling that exists among them towards the 
 present Government and the white people that are making their way 
 into that Territory. 
 
 You will further examine and ascertain their modes of life and means 
 of communication from one part of the country to the other, the amount 
 and kind of weapons of war in their possession, and from where ob- 
 tained. 
 
 You will further obtain such information as jjracticable of the char- 
 acter of the country and the best means of using and sustaining a mili- 
 tary force, if one should be needed in that Territory. 
 
 Y''ou will make especial inquiry as to the kind and extent of the native 
 grasses that would sustain animals ordinarily used in military opera- 
 tions, also the character of the climate, especially inland, the severity 
 of the winters, and any other information that would be important to 
 the military service. 
 
 Y"ou will endeavor to impress the natives with the friendly disposi- 
 tion of the Government, and in no case will you move in any section of 
 the country where you cannot go without provoking hostilities or in- 
 citing the natives to resistance, as you are not authorized to exercise 
 any control of affairs in that Territory. 
 
 You will consider this duty especial and confidential, making your 
 reports to me, accompanied as full as possible with itineraries, maps, 
 traces, and field-notes. 
 
 Asst. Surg. George F. Wilson, and four enlisted men, will be directed 
 to report to jou, and such Indian scouts as may be hereafter authorized. 
 
120 MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 
 
 Voii ;uv ;intliori/A'cl to employ iiu interpreter wlien needed, and you 
 will exeirise strict economy in yonr necessary expenditures. 
 
 In nudvin<; yonr investisiition you will endeavor to complete all iiilbr- 
 niation in each section of the country before proceeding to another, in 
 order that, should time not permit yonr full completion of this work, it 
 may be taken up the following season. 
 
 The chiefs of the several staff departments at these headquarters 
 will, on presentation of this letter of instructions, furnish you with the 
 means and necessary equipments to enable you to accomplish the duty 
 assigned you. 
 
 Upon completion of this duty you will return to these headquarters. 
 Very respectfully, jour obedient servant, 
 
 NELSON A. MILES, 
 Brigadivr- General^ Commanding. 
 
 [First indorseraeut.] ' 
 
 Headquarters Department of the Columbia, 
 Vancouver Barracls, WaHhmtjton Territory, May dth, 1884. 
 Kespectfully referred (through Lieutenant Schwatka) to Asst. Surg. 
 George F. Wilson ; the department commander calls upon Dr. Wilson 
 to report as near as practicable from the data furnished in this re- 
 port and from any informaiion he may have, the names and numbers 
 of such of the Indians within referred to as are inhabitants of the 
 United States Territory of Alaska, and to locate as nearly as he can on 
 a map of that Territory, to be furnished by the chief engineer officer of 
 the Department, their places of habitual abode. 
 By order of Brigadier-General Miles. 
 
 O. D. GREENE, 
 Assistant Adjutant- General. 
 
 [Second indorsement.] 
 
 Headquarters Department of the Columbia, 
 
 Vancouver Barracks, Washinyton Territory. 
 EespectfuUy referred to Asst. Surg. George F. Wilson. Attention 
 called to preceding indorsement. 
 
 FEED'K SCHWATKA, 
 First Lieutenant Third Cavalry. 
 
 [Tliird indorsement. J 
 
 Vancouver Barracks, May 12, 1884. 
 Respectfully returned to the assistant adjutant- general Department 
 Columbia (through Lieutenant Schwatka), inviting attention to the sup- 
 plementary report, marked such, and transmitted herewith. 
 
 GEO. F. WILSON, 
 Assistant Surgeon, U. S. A. 
 
MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA. 121 
 
 [Fourth indorsement.] 
 
 Headquarters Department of the Columbia, 
 
 Vancouver Barracks,, May 15, 1884. 
 
 Eospoctfully forwarded to division headquarters. 
 
 Ui)oii being assigned to this command, I found tbat the Territory of 
 Ahiska, although embraced within the geographical limits of this De- 
 l>artnu'iir, with an area of 577,31)0 square miles, was practically an un- 
 explored and unknown country, but little being known of its topograph- 
 ical l'e;ttnres, number and character of its inhabitants, its resources, 
 or its climate. 
 
 On November 2, 1881, 1 forwarded a communication recommending a 
 special appropriation from Congress of $G8,000 to explore this Territory. 
 
 Although the bill to that eftect was introduced into the United States 
 Senate it failed to become a law, and (»n the 3d of April, 1883, 1 sent one 
 of my aids-decamp. Lieutenant Schwatka, with Assistant Surgeon 
 Wilson, Topographical Assistant Homan, and three enlisted men, to 
 Alaska to obtain information regarding the interior of that Territory 
 under instructions contained in letter of 7th of April, 1883 (appended). 
 
 The accompanying report is the result of this reconnaissance, and 
 contains much information, especially regarding the section visited, the 
 character of the country, and its inhabitants. 
 
 That part of the report which embraces a survey of a portion of 
 British America, with description of the same, was not called for by 
 the letter of instructions, and the publication of so much of the sub- 
 stance of this report as has appeared in various newspapers and maga- 
 zines of the country, prior to its being submitted to the military author- 
 ities, has been disapproved. 
 
 With these exceptions the reconnaissance has been successful, satis- 
 factory, and accomplished at little expense, and the report is interest- 
 ing and valuable, and contributes an important chapter to the descrip- 
 tive history of that remote and extensive country-. 
 
 Lieutenant Schwatka and his assistants are entitled to much credit 
 for the energy and zeal disi)layed in overcoming apparently insur- 
 mountable obstacles in their long, hazardous, and laborious journey. 
 
 NELSON A. MILES, 
 Brigadier-General, Commanding. 
 
 Fifth indorsement.] 
 
 Headquarters Division of the Pacific, 
 
 Presidio of San Francisco, California, July 26, 1884. 
 
 Kespectfully forwarded to the Adjutant-General of the Army. 
 
 JNO. POPE, 
 Major- General, Com manding. 
 Official copy. 
 
 E. C. DEUM, Adjutant- General. 
 Ad jut ats^t -General's Office, 
 
 Kovemher 4, 1884. 
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