University of California Berkeley Gift of MRS. L. NOBLE ROBINSON WILLIAMS' ILL USTRA TED THE PACIFIC TOURIST. The handsomest Guide Book in the world ! Every traveler needs it ! Buy it, it is the best ! Williams' Illustrated Trans-Continental Guide of the Pacific Railroad. Scenery of the Far West, Pleasure Resorts, Mines and Lands of California, Ut!h, The Black Hills, Idaho, Nevada, and the Pacific Coast. The most wonderful book of Western Scenery ever known. H820.OOO worth of engravings Full of Grand Illustrations of Scenery. It describes every Railroad Station of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads for 3,500 miles. Tells you Where to Go, What to See, Where to Sport and Fish, all about the Pleasure Re-orts. Springs, Lakes. Mountains, Mines. Lands, and every place that will interest you on your Overland Trip. 378 pages, price SS1.5O, flexible covers. Railroad Euitiou, $2.OO, full cloth, 32O pages. Endorsed by PROF. HAYDEN as the most accurate Map of the State ever published. Contains all the Hayden Surveys, and is the handsomest Western .Map ever seen. Contains the elevation of eveiv Mountain Peak. Pass, and Lake in the State, every Road and Trail, County Boundaries. Cities. Towns, and Post Offices. The only complete Map of Rivers, Streams, Likes, Railro ids, and Routes to the Health and Pleasure Resorts and Mines of all portions of the State. Its geo- graphical surveys of the San Juan Mining Region have been of unusual detail, completeness, and accuracy. Price, 50 cents, paper covers. Tourists 9 Guide to the San Juan Mines. Contains full description of all the Mining localities discovered within the past two years, their extraordinary richness, and Routes of Travel thither. Full of information of practical importance to every miner and traveler ; nlso describes the following topics : Beauty of Scenery. Hot Springs. vVagon Wheel Gap, Elevation of Mountains, Towns, Rates of Fare, Expenses of Living. Prices Paid for Ore. Miners' Outfits, The Famous Pagosa Springs. Freight Charges. Reduction Works, How to locate a Claim. Market Prices of Good* in principal towns of San Juan, etc.. etc.; all about the new Mines at Lake City, Silverton. Ouray, Mineral City, P.irrott City, and Kosita ; Mining Laws ot the United States, and of Colorado ; all, in fact that a Miner can possibly wish to know. Accompanied with a handsome colored MAP OF ROUTES TO COLORADO FKOM THE EAST. Price, 50 cents, paper covers. In preparation. Devo'ed to a full description of all the Health and Pleasure Resorts. Parks, Mountains, Springs. Mines, Towns, Scenery, etc.. of Colorado. Will be magnificently illustrated, and contain over 25O pages of reading of exceeding interest. Will be announced for publication as early as possible. All the above Guides and Maps for sale on all Railroad Trains in the West, or sent by mail, on receipt of price, by addressing HENHY T. WILLIAMS, Publisher, 46 Beekman St., Hew York. Also for sale at PUBLISHERS' AGENCIES, BARKALOW BROS., Omaha, Neb. JANSEN, McCLURG & CO., Chicago, 111. RICHARDS & CO., Denver, Col. A. ROMAN & CO., San Francisco, Cal. E. DENISON, Sacramento, Cal. TRUBNER & CO., London, Eng. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BOOK OF WESTERN SCENERY 2 R ISSUE 3D . The Most Complete, Accurate and Reliable Trans- Continental Guide Ever Known. Officially Endorsed by the Pacific R. R. Companies. TESTIMONIALS. GENERAL TICKET OFFICE UNION PACIFIC R. R. ) Omaha, Neb., Feb., 16, 1876. ) Having examined the proof-sheets and illustrations of your new " Pacific Tourist, and Guide of Travel Across the Continent," we take pleasure in saying that the book con- veys more detailed in formation of the Union and Central Pacific R. R. Line, and the Country through which it passes, than any publication of similar character we have ever seen. To those intending to settle, the miner, the tourist, the health and pleasure seeker, it is an especially valuable and reliable guide. Hoping it will find the ready sale it merits, we are yours truly. TH'OS. L. KIMBALL, G. P. and T. Agent. LAND DEPARTMENT UNION PACIFIC R. R. Co. ) Omaha, Neb., Feb 17. 1876. I I have examined the prospectus and proof-sheets of your " Pacific Tourist," and can state without hesitation that the work meets my unqualified approval. Your book will sup- ply a Ion? felt want for a complete and reliable Guide to those crossing the Continent. I am glad you have under- taken such a work; very few are so well qualified by per- sonal experience and observation of this great region, to know its attractions and resources. and able to present them in a clear and concise manner. Your work has my must hearty commendation, and I am confident you will have the abundant success your enterprise and efforts deserve. Yours truly, O. F. DA Vie!, Land Com. PULLMAN PACIFIC CAR Co. ) Omalia, Neb., March 11, 1876. f I am glad to know that you have decided to publish a com- prehensive and complete work for the guidance of the thousands who vi>it our Western country in pursuit of health and pleasure, and I will say in all sincerity that I know of no person more competent than yourself for this work, and I hope your fondest expectations will be more than realized. Yours truly, L. M. BENNETT, Supt. CENTRAL PACIFIC R. R. ) San Francisco, Cal., Feb. 29, 1876. I H. T. WILLIAMS, Esq: We take pleasure in noticing your efforts in the publication of a new and improved Guide and Hand Book for the use of regular passengers and tour- ists traveling over the Overland or Pacific R. R. Line, and to places of resort, interest or curiosity in California and Nevada. From proofs of your work which we have exam- ined, we jddge that the same, when complete, will prove satisfactory to the public, and we trust that it will meet with ready sale. Very respectfully, T. H. GOODMAN, G. P. A. and T. A. I cheerfully endorse the above, A. N. TOWNE, Gen'l Supt. MR. .HENRY 1 WILLIAMS: J. a imgiy wen pleased with The Pacific Tourist; the illustrations are of remarkable beauty, and the descriptions of scenery are very interesting. It is in all respects the best volume yet produced, relat- ing to Travel and Scenery of the Far West; and of the Pacific Railroad, in particular, it is undoubtedly the most fu!', accurate and complete Guide 1 have ever seen. I consider it indispensable to every traveler to Califor- nia; a great credit to the country, the Publisher, nml the Railroad. (signed,) T. SICKELS, Chief Engineer. CHICAGO, BURLINGTON & QUINCY R. R I Chicago. Sept 12. 1876. I Having carefully examined your ' Pacific Tourist" and Guide across the Continent, I have no hesitation in pro- nouncing it a "grand success." It is full of interesting information and valuable statis- tics, and I cheerfully recommend it to the Traveler and Tourist. D. W. HITCHCOCK, Gen'l Passenger Agent. CHICAGO, ROCK ISLAND & PACIFIC R. R. 1 Chicago. AugustSt, 1876. I I am in receipt of your Illustrated Trans. Continental R. R. Guide, and will say that it is the handsomest, most com- plete, accurate and reliable Overland Guide that I have yet seen. The Engravings are well executed, and the scenery selected for Illustrations, the finest 011 the route. I am confident that your efforts to furnish Tourists with a correct and readable Guide, will insure its success. A. M. SMITH, Gen'l Passenger Agent. CHICAGO, BURLINGTON & QUINCY R. R. I Chicago, Oct. 6, 1876. I Allow me to express a hearty appreciation of your " Pacific Tourist." As a Guide to the Pacific, it is far in advance of any other work of similar character that has come to my notice, and one that you may justlv be proud of. It is replete with valuable information to the traveler, and so interspersed with excellent miscellany, I unlike other so-called Guides.) that the reader can not fail to become interested, and close with a verdict of " well done." SAMUEL POWELL. Gen'l Ticket Agent C., B. & Q. R. R. Also, Sec'y, Gen'l Ticket and Pass. Agent's Association of U. S. RAILROADS, THE PRESS, AND PUBLIC MEN. "UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD Co., \ OMAHA, NEB., May 30, 1876. ) Mr. Henry T Williams: I consider THE PACIFIC TOURIST a very complete volume, indispensable to the overland passenger, and a book that every library should contain. The information it gives is correct and concisely stated, while the illustra- tions are very true and beautiful, forming a most attractive feature of the work. You should be liberally rewarded for the paius aud expense you have been at in producing it. J. J. DICKEY, Superintendent Telegraph Department." "OFFICE CHICAGO & NORTH- WESTERN RAILROAD, Co., \ CHICAGO, June 3, 1876. J You have made a Guide that you should be proud of. and I trust that you will be amply repaid for your work. I sin- cerely hope for its success. W. H. STENNETT, General Passenger Agent." " Office of U. S. Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories, WASHINGTON, June 10, 1876. DEAR SIR: Your Guide Book is splendid. Nothing like it ever got out on this Continent. It is a world of information in regard to the Far West. It will be useful, not only to the traveler, but to all others, as a condensed library of infor- mation about the West. Yours sincerely, F. V. HAYDEN." "MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD Co., 1 CHICAGO, May 29, 1876. I I thank you for an opportunity to see ' WILLIAMS' PA- CIFIC TOURISTS' GUIDE.' It makes a verv creditable ap- pearance, and will meet the wants of all who are searching for a correct guide to the many points of interest upon our GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL ROUTE. I wish you much success in the undertaking. Yours truly, HENRY C. WENTWORTH, General Passenger Agent." "CHICAGO, BURLINGTON & QUINCY RAILROAD Co.. ) BOSTON, June 1, 1876. ) Your Guide is very finely gotten up, and is ahead of any- thing of the kind I have yet seen. E. P. RIPLEY, General Eastern Agent." " MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD, ) BOSTON, June 6, 1876. I I have examined your 'PACIFIC TOURIST,' and take pleasure in commending it to trans-continental travelers, not only as an accurate Guide Book, but as a work well cal- culated to while away hours which become too heavy for comfort. The work is well edited, and is worthy of a place, not only in the hands of the traveler, but on the shelves of the private library. I hope your labors will meet with sat- isfactory reward. J. Q. A. BEAN, General Eastern Agent." " We are surprised at the amount of information it con- tains. The volume contains more matter than the com- bined issues of Norilhoff's California, Picturesque America, and Crolutt's book. Its illustrations of western scenery and travel, in numbers, beauty and accuracy, exceed those of any volume ever published. The railroad companies have unqualifiedly indorsed it as the most accurate and le- llable guide ever seen." AMERICAN BOOKSELLER, N. Y. "The Pacific Tourist is singularly full and complete." THE EVENIKG POST, N. Y. " THE PACIFIC TOURIST is as its editor claims, the costliest and handsomest hook of the sort yet issued. The descrip- tions are well written, and wood engravings after good art- ists are very handsome. Mr. Williams lias done a great deal of traveling, spent a considerable amount of money in getting up the Guide, and has been very competently aided by tourists and journalists of experience." SPRINGFIELD REPUBLICAN, (MASS.) "It will'not disappoint expectations in any respect, its only fault being that its contents are of so comprehensive a kind, that the intending tourist will, likely enough, sutler from an embarrassment of riches." DAILY INQUIRER, PHILADELPHIA, PA. " This Guide ranks among the very best efforts ever issued. Its richness and completeness in illustrations, information and descriptions, can only be realized by an examination of the work. The ground traveled over and described is immense. It is doubtful if any other work offers so much valuable and useful information to travelers in so suc- cinct and attractive a form. We may say that it gives, in- deed, too much for the money. The views are profuse and notably good. The amount of illustration in the book con- sidering its cost, is ab:-olute]y marvelous, and the ability and energy Mr. Williams has shown in getting it up is some- thing to be admired." PUBLISHERS' WEEKLY, NEW YORK CITY. " At last there is a Guide Book to the Pacific Coast, every way worthy of the wonderful scenery, and inexhaustible resources of the western part of the American Continent, and the saaacity, skill and money that have given us the Pacific Railroads. THE PACIFIC TOURIST is edited by the one man in this country, who is competent to furnish such a Guide Book. Mr. Williams has, in persona] travel and by various excur- sions, made himself personally familiar with the whole ground. The volume is tilled with all possible information of value to those intending to travel to the Pacific, and is so interestingly written, and so lavishly and beautifully illus- trated by the best artists, as to make it a volume worthy any library. Time and space utterly fail to describe details. The book only needs to be seen to be appreciated." THE DAILY UNION, SPRINGFIELD, MASS. "Indispensable to persons traveling in the West. It is brought out in excellent, even sumptuous style, and is very copiously illustrated with pictures of interesting places and characters. Every sortof information useful and entertaining, is givon in regard to the whole region of the Pacific Slope, thus making the book of the greatest value to tourists and busi- ness men." THE DAILY GRAPHIC, N. Y. San Francisco, Cal. HINKLE'S PASSENGER AND BAG'GAGE ELEVATOR. SHOdfiUS -s^s COVERS ONE ENTIRE BLOCK. Overland Travelers may secure Rooms in advance of arrival, by Telegraph at our JOHNSON & CO, PROPRIETORS, Corner Market and Montgomery Streets. THE BRAND PACIFIC HOTEL, OHICA.GO. Over 500 Rooms 250 with Baths and Closets. ONE OF THE Largest, Best Furnished * Finest Ventilated I1ST Occupies an Entire Square, having a frontage North, South, East and West of Over One Thousand Feet. of of I PRICES OF ROOMS, WITH BOARD, $3.00, $3.50, $4.00, $4.50 & $5.00 per Day, according to Location. THE TA.BLE A.1STD SERVICE N. IS. A Reduction will be made from, the above prices to parties remaining, a vveek or more. V3T Rooms can foe secured, stating Price of same, by Telegraph, at our expense. JOHN B. DRAKE & CO., PROPRIETORS. Copyright, 1876, by Henry T. Williams. I PALACE-CAR LIFE ON THE PACIFIC RAILROAD. WILLIAMS' OF The Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. CONTAINING FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF RAILROAD ROUTES ACROSS THE CONTINENT, ALL PLEASURE RESORTS AND PLACES OF MOST NOTED SCENERY IN THE FAR WEST, ALSO OF ALL CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES, U. 8.- FORTS, SPRINGS, LAKES, MOUNTAINS, ROUTES OF SUMMER TRAVEL, BEST LOCALITIES FOR HUNTING, FISHING, SPORTING, AND ENJOY- MENT, WITH ALL NEEDFUL INFORMATION FOR THE PLEASURE TRAVELER, MINER, SETTLER, OR BUSINESS MAN. A COMPLETE TRAVELER'S GUIDE AND ALL POINTS OF BUSINESS OR PLEASURE TRAVEL TO CALIFORNIA, COLORADO, NEBRASKA, WYOMING, UTAH, NEVADA, MONTANA, THE MINES AND MINING OF THE TERRITORIES, THE LANDS OF THE PACIFIC COAST, THE WONDERS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE SCENERY OF THE SIERRA NEVADAS, THE COL- ORADO MOUNTAINS, THE BIG TREES, THE GEYSERS, THE YOSEMITE, AND THE YELLOWSTONE. BY HENRY T. WILLIAMS, EDITOR. WITH SPECIAL CONTRIBUTIONS BY PROF. F. V. HAYDEN, CLARENCE KING, CAPT. BUTTON, A. C. PEALE, JOAQUIN MILLER, J. B. DAVIS, F. E. SHEARER. ILLUSTRATIONS BT THOMAS MORAN, A. C. WARREN, W. SNYDER, F. SCHELL, H. W. TROY, A. WILL. ENGRAVINGS BY MEEDER & CHUBB. Price, $1.50 Railroad Edition, Flexible Covers, 278 pp. " $2.00 Full Cloth, Stiff Covers, 320 pp. NEW YORK: HENRY T. WILLIAMS, PUBLISHER. 1878. Clark W. Bryan & Co., Printers, Electrotypers and Binders, Springfield, Mass. PREFACE. FEW can form an adequate idea of the immense field required to be covered by a Trans- Continental Guide. The amount of labor, personal travel, and research, all of utmost faithfulness and accuracy, is beyond expression or terms of comparison. Think of the wonderful results accomplished in a few years, by the opening of the Pacific Railroad. In 1850, the Far West was unknown and unexplored. In 1860, its total population was but 619,000, most of whom were residents of the Pacific Coast. In 1870, the population had doubled. In .1876, seven years after the opening of the Pacific liailroad, see how wonderful the change. The population of the Far Western States and Territories had again increased 40 per cent. And the Far West now includes this immense field reached only by this Railroad. Population in 1875, 1,524,- 703; area of square miles, 1,445,332; area of square acres, 1,332,744,755. The entire capital now invested in Railroad enterprises in this vast region now exceeds $750,000,000. Over 300 towns and sta- tions have arisen on the great Trans-Continental Route and its branches. The annual receipts exceed $30,000,000 a year, and the number of passengers, both through and local, exceed 1,000,000. The tide of pleasure travel has turned westward, and Europe clasps hands with China and Japan across our Continent. Thus have seven short years turned the travel of the world. This volume represents over nine months' actual time spent in personal travel over 2,500 miles getting with faith- fulness all possible facts of interest and the latest information. Over 40 artists, engravers and correspondents have been employed, and the whole represents an outlay of nearly $20,000 : thus making it not only the most elaborate, but the costliest and handsomest Guide Book in the world. No other volume in the world contains so many views of the scenery of the West. The Editor and his Assistants have, in the past seven years, personally traveled over this great Route more than 30 times. More than 100,000 miles of travel on the American Continent have been traversed by the Editor, who during eight years' active service as an associate editor of The New York Independent, has conducted four large editorial parties to the wonders of the West, representing over 150 journals and a total circulation of over 3,000,000. In this volume is combined every possible fact to guide and instruct the pleasure traveler, business man, miner, or settler, who turns his face westward. Herein are found every Railroad Station, and time of- the principal Railroads, all Stage Routes, Distances, and Fare to all principal points ; all the wonders of Western JScenery, Springs, Mountains, Canons, Lakes, Deserts, Rocks, and Gardens are here described in detail. The trans-ocean traveler from Europe to the Pacific will find all needful information of Routes on the Pacific Ocean ; and the traveler eastward from Australia and Japan will find invaluable help for his route to New York. Professor F. V. Hayden, the celebrated leader of the United States Geological Exploring Expedition, has contributed specially to these pages an admirably condensed account of the Wonders of the Yellowstone ; and with the assistance of A. C. Peale, this Guide is the only publication which gives the most detailed and accurate information of Routes how to reach it. The Big Bonanza Mines are also described in glowing language, and add to the interest of these pages. The Representative Men of the Far West, who have been the energetic projectors and supporters of all its active and successful enterprises, are illustrated in our pages. I acknowledge, with pleasure, special thanks for the services of Mr. J. B. Davis, late editor of The Common- wealth, Topeka, Kansas, and F. E Shearer, of San Francisco, who have done so much by personal travel and effort to make this Guide complete ; also to G. W. Savage of Salt Lake City, for photographs. As the Tourist looks with pleasure upon the sketches of Thomas Moran, who more than any other American artist has illustrated the Glories of the West, or upon the scenes illustrated from the paintings of Bierstadt, America's favorite painter, and the sketches by Warren, Will, and others, all from life and accurate in every detail, let him give due credit to Art for these happy embellishments of nature. Wishing every traveler " bon voyage," I am, cordially, HENRY T. WILLIAMS, Editor. AMERICA'S GREATEST WONDER! The Pacific Railroad. HER grandest scenery borders its magnificent pathway ; thither is her most popular route of pleasure travel, and most celebrated health resorts ; and along these iron lines, the monument of financial intrepidity and daring engineering skill, there is opened a new West, a Continent of itself, richer in wealth than the most sanguine of hopes ; and hither, in so short space of time, has poured so immense a volume of trade, as to change the entire commerce of the world. Industries have arisen by the opening of this great trans-continental line which were never ex- pected or dreamed of by the projectors ; the richest of mineral discoveries and the most en- couraging of agricultural settlements have alike resulted, where little was thought of, and stran- gest of all, the tide of travel from the European and the Asiatic countries, and the distant isles of the Pacific Ocean, once the exclusive privilege of English vessels through the Suez Canal, or around the Continent of Africa, actually now crosses the American Continent with far more speed and greater safety. The exclamations of American and European tourists, after a passage over its magnificent route are alike, " The greatest wonder of the nineteenth century ! " Curiosities of History. To whom the honor belongs of first proposing the plan of a rail- road to the Pacific, history can never fully deter- mine. Whitney offered to build it for a grant of thirty miles in width along its track, and it was looked upon as the freaky fancy of a monomaniac. Benton, too, the famous statesman, was once aglow with enthusiasm over the subject, and be- gan to agitate the project, but it was considered the harmless fancy of an old politician. And in 1856, when General Fremont was nominated, the Platform of the National Republican Party contained a clause in its favor but it was re- garded as a piece of cheap electioneering " bun- combe," and decidedly absurd. Perhaps the earliest record of a devoted admirer of this project was that of John Plumbe, in 1836. He was a Welshman by birth, an American by education and feeling, a civil engineer by profession, and lived at Dubuque, la. He began to agitate the project of a railroad from the great lakes across the Continent to the Territory of Oregon. From that time to his death, in California, sev- eral years after the discovery of gold, he never failed to urge his project ; earnestly and ardently laboring to bring it before Congress, and attempt- ing to secure a beginning of the great work. To far-seeing statesmen, the idea naturally occurred that in course of time there would arise on the Pacific Coast another empire of trade and com- 6 merce and industry, either at San Francisco, or the Puget Sound, which would in time, become the rival of New York and the East, and at once the project was taken up and encouraged by Carver, Wilkes, Benton, Whitney, Burton and others ; but all such ideas met with indifference and ridicule. In 1844, when Fremont made his famous ex- plorations across the plains, which has earned him so world-wide a reputation, so little was known of the geography of that country, that his reports were considered an immense acquisition to the collection of books of physical knowledge of our country. This sectipn was fully 2,300 miles in distance, entirely vacant, no settlement, entirely occupied by roving bands of Indians, and the undisturbed home of the buffalo and antelope. In that year Chicago was but an obscure village, on a prairie without a single inhabitant. And not a single line of railroad was built from the Atlantic westward beyond the Alleghanies, and on the Pacific only one American flag covered a feeble colony. The dis- covery of gold in California had its effect in directing public attention to the unknown riches of its Western border; and at last Congress woke up to the need of thorough explorations and investigations. In March, 1853, Congress made its first appropriation to explore the Far West, and ascertain if there was really a practi- cable route to the Pacific. In 1854, Congress ap- propriated $190,000 additional ; and, as a result, nine surveying parties were organized and pur- sued their work. Ten routes were surveyed between the 32d and 49th parallel of latitude ; the eastern ends ranging all the way from Fulton, Ark., to St. Paul, Minn., and the western ter- minal points from San Diego to Puget Sound. The lengths of these routes varied from 1,533 to 2,290 miles. The continued gold discoveries brought an im- mense flow of population to the Pacific Coast, and California, more alive to the necessities of such roads than the East, after numerous agitations, at last really made the first initiatory experiment. Early in 1861 there was organized at Sacramento, Cal., the Central Pacific Railroad Company, who by the appointment of T. D. Judah, as chief en- gineer, began the first and most thorough railroad survey ever made on the Sierras. Congress then woke up, and in July, 1862, the first national charter was granted. As a curious fact in the act the utmost limit of time allowed for the completion of the road was fixed at July 1, 1876. In October, 1863, the preliminary organ- ization of the company was completed. A capi- tal of one hundred million dollars authorized, and the first contract for construction begun in 1864, but no practical progress was made till 1865, when on the 5th of November, the first ceremony of breaking ground, at Omaha, was celebrated. Then was begun the great work; the rapid progress of which afterward was a world-wide sensation, astounding engineers, capitalists, and even governments, with the almost reckless dar- ing of construction. Necessity and Benefits to the Govern- ment. From 1850 to 1860, the population of the far Western States and Territories increased from a mere handful to the large number of 554,301 persons, and in the whole area of 2,000 miles there had been built only 232 miles of telegraph, and 32 miles of railway. The United States Government had established forts and trading stations, and the year 187O saw the completion of the Pacific Railroad line, Congress and the whole country were astonished to see the rapid rate of development, and the enormous expense of government military service. In that year the population had increased to 1,011,971, there had been built over 13,000 miles of telegraph lines ; there were completed over 4,000 miles of rail- road ; all representing the gigantic capital of $363,750,000. In the reports of distinguished statesmen to the United States Senate, occur these remarks which show the spirit of the times then. Senator Stewart of California, says : " The cost of the overland service for the whole period, from the acquisition of our Pacific Coast possessions down to the completion of the Pacific Railroad was $8,000,000 per annum, and con- stantly increasing." As a curious fact of national economy, these figures will show the result of the Pacific Rail- road in saving to the United States Government : Since the building of the road, the cost of transportation to the government has been as follows : Amount cash paid to railroad companies for one-half charge of transportation per year, about $1,200.000 per annum, say for 7 years 1869 to 1876, $8,400,000 The cost to the government of military trans- portation in 1870, was $8,000,000 per annum, and increasing over $1,000,000 per year. In 1876, would have been over $14,- 000,000. Average for 7 years, at 10,000,000 per year, $70,000,000 Total saving in 7 years to United States Govern- ment, $62,600,000 The actual amount of interest during this time paid by the United States Treasury on bonds issued in behalf of the railroad, average interest, $3,897,129 per year. Total for 7 years, $27,279,906 Net profit over all expenses to United States, $42,320,094 These figures do not include vast amounts of incidental items which would have been of incal- culable trouble, or immense expense to the United States, such as the indemnities constant- ly being paid by the United States for destruc- tion of life and private property by Indians; also depredations of Indians on property in gov- ernment service, increased mail facilities and decreased mail expenses, prevention of Indian wars, the rapid sale of public lands, and the energetic development of the mining interests of all the Territories. If these can all be correctly estimated, the net gain to the United States by the building of the Pacific Railroad, is over Jifty millions of dollars. Hon. Henry Wilson, in a speech before the Senate, Thirty-seventh Congress, boldly said : " I give no grudging vote in giving away either money or land. I would sink $100,000,000 to build the road, and do it most cheerfully, and think I had done a great thing for my country. What are $75,000,000 or $100,000,000 in opening a railroad across the central regions of this Con- tinent, that shall connect the people of the Atlantic and Pacific, and bind us together? Nothing. As to the lands, I do not grudge them." It is a significant fact, that while the heat and activity of Congressional discussion was most earnest in aid and encouragement of the project, the following sentiments were unanimously enter- tained by all the members of Congress : 1. That the road was a necessity to the govern- ment, and if not built by private capital, must be built in time with public funds alone. 2. To encourage the capitalists of the country to come forward and aid the project, the govern- ment were willing to give one-half the funds necessary as a loan, and were then merely doing the least part of the whole. 3. That no expectations were entertained that the road would ever, from its own means, be able to refund the advance made by the United States, and no other thought was ever entertained, save of the banefits to accrue to the public from the opening of this grand highway of national interest. No expectations were formed of the ability of the company to pay or repay the interest on the loan, but one thought was con- sidered, that the building of the road was ample compensation and service in its vast aid to in- dustry, and its saving in transportation. As editor of this Guide, knowing well the re- sources of the Far West, we positively assert that the government has already, in seven years, realized in both savings and sales, enough money to liquidate one-third the whole principal, and accrued interest of the government loan, and in less than twenty years from the opening of the road, the government gain will be greater than the whole of the financial aid it has ever given. The Pacific Railroad is the right-hand saving power of the United States. Discouragements. Notwithstanding all that the government had done to encourage it (by speeches), the work languished. Capitalists doubted it. The great war of the rebellion attracted the attention of every one, and the gov- ernment, after its first impulses, grew indifferent. A few bold men determined to work incessantly for its completion. And one of the results of the great war was the conviction in the minds of every one of a closer Union of the States. " Who knows," said one, " but California and the whole Pacific Coast may secede, and where are we then f We can do nothing to retain them. The Pacific Railroad must be built. It shall be built to keep our country together." The chief engineer of the railroad, Gen. G. M. Dodge, in complimenting the directors on the day of the completion of the last mile of track, says : " The country is evidently satisfied that you accomplished wonders, and have achieved a work which will be a monument to your energy, your ability, and to your devotion to the enter- prise, through all its gloomy, as well as bright periods, for it is notorious that notwithstanding the aid of the government, there was so little faith in the enterprise, that its dark days when your private fortunes, and your all was staked on the success of the project far exceeded those of sunshine, faith and confidence." The lack of confidence in the project, even in the West, was so great that ev*n in localities which were to be specially benefited by its con- struction, the laborers even demanded their pay before they would perform their day's work, so little faith had they in the payment of their wages, or in the ability of the company to suc- ceed in their efforts. Probably no enterprise in the world has been so maligned, misrepresented and criticised as this, but now it is, by unbiased minds, pro- nounced, almost without exception, the best new road in the United States. Rapid f regress. Though chartered in 1862, yet the first grading was not done until 1864, and the first rail laid in July, 1865. At that time there was no railroad communication from the East ; a gap of 140 miles existed be- tween Omaha and Des Moines, and over this it was impossible to get supplies. For 500 miles westward of the Missouri River, the country was completely destitute of timber, fuel, or any material with which to build or maintain a road, save the bare sand for the road- bed itself, everything had to be transported by teams or steamboats, hundreds and thousands of miles. Labor, and every thing made by labor, was scarce and high. Railroad ties were cut in Michigan and Penn- sylvania, and shipped to Omaha at a cost, often, of $2.50 per tie. Even the splendid engine, of seventy horse-power, used at Omaha for the company's works, was transported in wagons across the prairies from Des Moines, the only way to get it. Shops had to be built, forges erected, and machinery put in place, and the supplies, even, for the subsistence of laborers had to be brought by river from the East; yet it was all done. As the Westerners concisely express it, " The wind work had all been done, and grading note be- gan." 8 In 1865, 40 miles of track were laid to Fre- mont. In 1866, 260 miles were laid. In 1867, 240 miles were laid, which included the ascent to Sherman. By January 1, 1868, there had been completed 540 miles. In 1868, to May 10, 1869, 555 miles more were laid, and the road finished seven years in advance of the time set by Congress, and the time actually spent in construction was just three years, six months, and ten days. To show the enormous amount of materials required in the Union Pacific Railroad alone, there were used in its construction 300,000 tons of iron rails, 1,700,000 fish-plates, 6,800,000 bolts, 6,126,375 cross-ties, 23,505,500 spikes. Fast Building. Day after day the average rate of building rose from one to two, three and five miles. Many will remember the daily thrill of excitement as the morning journals in the East made the announcements of so many more miles nearer the end, and as the number of com- pleted miles, printed in the widely circulated advertisements of the company, reached 1000, the excitement became intense, as the rival roads now were fairly aglow with the heat of compe- tition, and so near each other. In previous months there had existed a little engineering rivalry, good natured, but keen, as to the largest number of miles each could lay in one day. The Union Pacific men laid one day six miles ; soon after the Central followed suit by laying seven. The Union Pacific retaliated by laying seven and a half; to this the Central sent the announce- ment that they could lay ten miles in one day ; to this Mr. Durant, the vice-president, sent back a wager of $10,000 that it could not be done. The pride and spirit of the Central Pacific had now been challenged, and they prepared for the enor- mous contest, one of extraordinary magnitude and rapidity. The 29th day of April, 1869, was selected for the decision of the contest, as there then remained but 14 miles of track to bring a meeting of the roads at Promontory Point. Work began ; the ground had already been graded and ties placed in position, and at the signal the cars loaded with rails moved forward. Four men, two on each side, seize with their nip- pers the ends of the rails, lift from the car and carry them to their place ; the car moves steadily along over the rails as fast as they are laid. Im- mediately after follows a band of men who attach the plate and put the spikes in position ; next a force of Chinamen who drive down the spikes solid to their homes, and last another gang of Chinamen with shovels, picks, etc., who ballast the track. The rapidity of all these motions, which required the most active of exercise and alert movements, was at the rate of 144 feet of track to every minute. By 1.30 p. M., the layers had placed eight miles of track in just six hours. Resuming work again, after the noon rest, the track-laying progressed, and at 7 P. M., exactly, the Central men finished their task of 10 miles, with 200 feet over. Mr. James Campbell, the superintendent of the division, then seizing a locomotive ran it over the ten miles of new track in forty minutes, and the Union men were satis- fied. This was the greatest feat of railroad building ever known in the world, and when it is known how vast the materials required to sup- ply this little stretch of ten miles, the reader is fairly astonished at the endurance of the laborers. To put this material in place over 4,000 men had been constantly employed. The laborers on that day handled 25,800 cross-ties, 3,520 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish-plates, and 14,080 bolts, the weight of the whole being 4,362,000 pounds. Upon both roads, for a year previous, there had been remarkable activity. A total force of 20,000 to 25,000 workmen all along the lines, and 5,000 to 6,000 teams had been engaged in grading and laying the track or getting out stone or timber. From 500 to 600 tons of materials were forwarded daily from either end of the lines. The Sierra Nevadas suddenly became alive with wood-choppers, and at one place on the Truckee River twenty-five saw-mills went into operation in a single week. Upon one railroad 70 to 100 locomotives were in use at one time, constantly bringing materials and supplies. At one time there were 30 vessels en route from New York via Cape Horn, with iron, locomotives, rails and rolling stock, destined for the Central Pacific Railroad ; and it is a curious fact, that on sev- eral consecutive days, more miles of track were ironed by the railroad companies than it was possible for an ox-team to draw a load over. And when at last the great road was completed, the fact suddenly flashed upon the nation that a road once so distrusted, and considered too gigantic to be possible, was constructed an actual distance of 2,221 miles, in less thanfve years, of which all but 100 miles was done between January 1, 1866 and May 10, 1869 three years, four months and ten days. Pleasure of Overland Travel. Pal- ace Car Life on tlie Pacific Kail- road. In no part of the world is travel made so easy and comfortable as on the Pacific Rail- road. To travelers from the East it is a con- stant delight, and to ladies and families it is accompanied with absolutely no fatigue or discom- fort. One lives at home in the Palace Car with as much true enjoyment as in the home drawing- room, and with the constant change of scenes afforded from the car window, it is far more en- joyable than the saloon of a fashionable steamer. For an entire week or more, as the train leisurely- crosses the Continent, the little section and berth allotted to you, so neat and clean, so nicely fur- nished and kept, becomes your home. Here you sit and read, play your games, indulge in social conversation and 'glee, and if fortunate enough to 9 possess good company of friends to join you, the overland tour becomes an intense delight. The sleeping-cars from New York to Chicago, proceeding at their rushing rate of forty or more miles per hour, give to travelers no idea of the true comfort of Pullman car life. Indeed the first thousand miles of the journey to Chicago or St. Louis has more tedium and wearisomeness, and dust and inconvenience than all the rest of the journey. Do not judge of the whole trip by these first days out. From Chicago westward to Omaha the cars are far finer, and traveling more luxurious, likewise the rate of speed is slower and the motion of the train more easy than on roads farther east. At Omaha, as you view the long Pacific train just ready to leave the depot for its overland trip, (often over 600 feet in length), giving an appear- ance of strength, massiveness and majestic power, you can but admit it is exceedingly beautiful and impressive ; this feeling is still more intensified when a day or so later, alone out upon the upland plains, with no living object in sight, as you stand at a little distance and look down upon the long train, it seems the handsomest work of science ever mad' for the comfort of earth's people. The slow rate ot speed, which averages but sixteen to twenty miles per hour, day and night, produces, a peculiarly smooth, gentle and easy motion, most soothing and agreeable. The straight t :ack, which for hundreds of miles is without ac'irve, avoids all swinging motions of the cars ; sidelong bumps are unknown. The cars are cor/nected with the Miller buffer and platform, and make a solid train, without the dis- comforts of jerks and jolts. And the steady, easy jog of the train, as it leisurely moves west- ward, give?) a feeling of genuine comfort, such as no one ever feels or enjoys in any other part of the world. A Pullman Pacific car train in motion is a grand and beautiful sight too, from within as well as from without. On some lovely, balmy, sum- mer day., when the fresh breezes across the prai- ries induce us to open our doors and windows, there may often be seen curious and pleasant sights. Standing at the rear of the train, and with all doors open, there is an unobstructed view along the aisles throughout the entire length. On either side of the train, are the prairies, where the eye sees but wildness, and even desolation, then looking back upon this long aisle or avenue, he sees civilization and comfort and luxury. How sharp the contrast. The first day's ride over the Pacific Railroad westward, is a short one to nightfall, but it carries one through the beautiful undulating prairies of eastern Nebraska, the best settled portions of the State, where are its finest homes and richest soil. Opening sud- denly into the broad and ever grand Valley of the Platte, the rich luxuriant meadow-grass, in the warmth of the afternoon sun, make even the most desponding or prosaic feel there is beauty in prairie life. On the second day out, the traveler is fast ascending the high plains and summits of the Rocky Mountains. The little villages of prairie dogs interest and amuse every one. Then come in sight the distant summits of Long's Peak and the Colorado Mountains. Without scarcely ask- ing the cause, the tourist is full of glow and enthusiasm. He is alive with enjoyment, and yet can scarcely tell why. The great plains themselves seem full of interest. Ah ! It is this keen, beautiful, refreshing, oxygenated, invigorating, toning, beautiful, en- livening mountain air which is giving him the glow of nature, and quickening him into greater appreciation of this grand impressive country. The plains themselves are a sight most forci- ble ; shall we call them the blankness of desolation 1 No, for every inch of the little turf beneath your feet is rich ; the soil contains the finest of food in the little tufts of buffalo grass, on which thousands and millions of sheep and cattle may feed the year through. But it is the vastness of wide-extending, uninhabited, lifeless, uplifted solitude. If ever one feels belittled, 'tis on the plains, when each individual seems but a little mite, amid this majesty of loneliness. But the traveler finds with the Pullman car life, amid his enjoyments of reading, playing, conversation, making agreeable acquaintances, and with con- stant glances from the car window, enough to give him full and happy use of his time. Night time comes, and then as your little berths are made up, and you snugly cover yourself up, under double blankets (for the night air is always crisp and cold), perhaps you will often witness the sight of a prairie fire, or the vivid flashes of lightning ; some of nature's greatest scenes, hardly less interesting than the plains, and far more fearful and awe-inspiring. Then turning to rest, you will sleep amid the easy roll of the car, as sweetly and refreshingly as ever upon the home-bed. How little has ever been writ- ten of " Night on the Pacific Railroad," the de- lightful, snug, rejuvenating sleeps on the Pacific Railroad. The lulling, quiet life by day, and the sound, refreshing repose by night, are to the system the best of health restorers. Were there but one thing tourists might feel most gratitude for, on their overland trip, 'tis their enjoyment of the ex- hilarating mountain air by day, and the splendid rest by night. But as our train moves on, it in- troduces us to new scenes. You soon ascend the Rocky Mountains at Sherman, and view there the vast mountain range, the "Back 'Bone of the Continent," and again descend and thunder amid the cliffs of Echo and Weber Canons. You carry with you your Pullman house and all its comforts, and from your little window, as from 10 your little boudoir at home, you will see the mighty wonders of the Far West. It is impossible to tell of the pleasures and joys of the palace ride you will have five days it will make you so well accustomed to car life, you feel when you drop upon the wharf of San Fran- cisco, that you had left genuine comfort behind, and even the hotel, with its cosy parlor and cheerful fire, has not its full recompense. Palace car life has every day its fresh and novel sights. No railroad has greater variety and contrasts of scenery than the Pacific Rail- road. The great plains of Nebraska and Wy- oming are not less impressive than the great Humboldt Desert. The rock majesties of Echo and Weber are not more wonderful than the curiosities of Great Salt Lake and the City of Deseret. And where more grandly and beauti- fully could a tourist drop down and finish his tour, than from the grand, towering summits of the Sierras, and amid the golden grain fields of California, its gardens, groves, and cottage blossoms ? When the traveler returns home, nothing will impress him more strongly or beautifully than the loveliness of the Valley of the Platte. Com- ing eastward, first, he will leave behind the mil- lions of acres of little short buffalo grass, so dry and yellow, and soon comes to a little green. How refreshing it is after days of dry, sere vege- tation. Gradually there come other grasses, a little taller and more green; then nearer and hearer to the end of the journey, come the wav- ing of the corn-fields, the vast meadows of tall green grass, and the happy little farms. So complete a transition from the solitude of the uplands to the lovely green verdure of the low- lands of the Platte, is an inexpressible charm to all. No traveler ever returns East but with the most kindly of memories of the grand, and yet simple beauty of the Platte Valley. Think then, oh reader ! of the joys that await thee from the window of thy palace car ! Practical Hints for Comforts Inj the Wai/. To enjoy palace car life properly, one always needs a good companion. This obtained, take a section together, wherever the journey leads you. From Chicago to Omaha, the com- pany in sleeping-cars is usually quiet and re- fined, but beyond Omaha, there is often an indescribable mixture of races in the same car, and if you are alone, often the chance is that your " compagnon du voyage " may not be agree- able. It is impossible to order a section for one person alone, and the dictum of sleeping-car arrangements at Omaha requires all who come to take what berths are assigned. But if you will wait over one day at Omaha, you can make a choice of the whole train, and secure the most desirable berths. When your section is once located, generally you will find the same section reserved for you at Ogden, where you change cars to the Central Pacific Railroad ; all through passengers having usually the preference of best berths, and about the same position as on the cars of the Union Pacific. Fee your porter on the sleeping-car always if he is attentive and obliging, give him a dol- lar. His attention to your comfort and care of your baggage and constant watch over the little articles and hand-satchel, against loafers on the train, is worth all you give him. Often larger fees are given. This is just as the traveler feels. The porters of both Pacific Railroads are es- teemed specially excellent, obliging and care- ful. Meals. The trains of the Union Pacific Railroad are arranged so as to stop at excellent stations at convenient hours, for meals. In place of the usual dining station at Laramie, there is now a most comfortable and conven- ient eating station at Rock Creek, a little far- ther west. Its pleasant, cheerful room filled with plants, and the convenience of better hours for meals, add greatly to the pleasure of the over- land trip. At Green River you will find the dining-room entrance fairly surrounded with curiosities, and the office filled with oddities very amusing. The meals here are excellent, con- sidering all supplies are obtained at a great dis- tance away. Usually all the eating-houses on both the Pacific Railroads are very excellent indeed. The keepers have to maintain their culinary excellence under great disadvantages, especially west of Sidney, as all food but meats must be brought from a great distance. Travelers need to make no preparations for eating on the cars, as meals at all dining-halls are excellent, and food of great variety is nicely served ; buffalo meat, antelope steak, tongue of all kinds, and always the best of beefsteak. Laramie possesses the reputation of the best steak on the Pacific Railroad. Sidney makes a special- ty, occasionally, of antelope steak. At Evanston you will see the lively antics of the Chinese waiters, probably your first sight of them. Also they usually have nice mountain fish. At Green River you will always get nice biscuit ; at Grand Island they give all you can possibly eat ; it has a good name for its bountiful supplies. At Ogden you will be pleased with the neat- ness and cleanness of the tables and service. At Cheyenne the dinners are always excellent, and the dining-room is cheerful. To any who either have desire to economize, or inability to eat three railroad meals per day, we recommend to carry a little basket with Albert biscuit and a little cup. This can be easily filled at all stopping-places with hot tea or coffee, and a sociable and com- fortable glass of tea indulged in inside the car. The porter will fit you up a nice little table in your section, and spread on a neat white table- cloth. 11 When the tourist reaches the Central Pacific Railroad he passes beyond the domain of the Pullman Car Company; nevertheless, the new coaches of the Central Pacific Railroad are just as elegant and convenient. As the comforts of the new cars are far supe- rior to the old ones, which still are used, it would be better to wait over at Ogden one day to make sure of them. The dining-stations of the Central Pacific Railroad are bountiful in their supplies ; at all of them fruit is given in sum- mer-time with great freedom. Fish is almost always to be had ; no game of value. The food, cooking and service by Chinese waiters is simply excellent. The writer has never eaten nicer meals than those served at Winnemucca, Elko, Battle Mountain and Colfax. The Humboldt Desert is far from being a desert to the traveling public, for its eating-stations always furnish a dessert of good things and creature comforts. A little lunch-basket nicely stowed with sweet and substantial bits of food' will often save you the pain of long rides before meals ; when the empty stomach craves food and failing to receive it, lays you up with the most dismal of sick head- aches ; it also serves you splendidly whenever the train is delayed. To be well on the Pacific Railroad eat at regular hours, and never miss a meal. Most of the sickness which we have witnessed, has arisen from irregular eating, or injudicious attempts at economy by skipping a meal to save a dollar. We have noticed those who were regu- lar in eating at every meal, passed the journey with greatest ease, most comfort and best health. Those who were irregular, skipping here and there a meal, always suffered inconvenience. In packing your little lunch-basket, avoid tongue, by all m^ans, for it will not keep over a day or two, and its fumes in a sleeping-car are any- thing but like those from " Araby the blest." Avoid all articles which have odor of any descrip- tion. Lunch counters are attached to all eating-sta- tions, so that you may easily procure hot coffee, tea, biscuit, sandwiches and fruit if you do not wish a full meal. The uniform price of meals at all stations over- land, is f 1.00 greenbacks. On the Central Pacific, at Colfax pay 75 cents in silver; at Lathrop pay 50 cents silver the cheapest and best meal for the money, of your whole tour. For clothing on your overland trip, you will need at Omaha the first day, if it is summer, a light spring suit ; the next day a winter suit at Sherman. Again, at Salt Lake City and the Humboldt Desert, the thinnest of summer suits, and at the summit of the Sierras, all your underclothing. We can only advise you as you have to pass through so many extremes of temperature, to always wear your underclothing, day and night, through the overland trip, and add an overcoat if the air grows chilly. Beware of the quick transition from the hot ride over the San Joaquin Valley to the cold sea air on the ferry from Oakland to San Francisco. Invalids have been chilled through with this un- expected sea breeze, and even the most hardy do not love it. Keep warm and keep inside the boat. Thus, reader, we have helped you with kindly hints how to enjoy your trip. Now let us glance, as we go, at each scene of industry where our tour will take us. HINTS. 1. Baggage. All baggage of reasonable weight can be checked from any Eastern city direct to Omaha, but is there rechecked. 2. At Omaha all baggage is weighed, and on all excess of over 100 pounds, passengers will pay 15 cts. per pound. This is imperative. 3. Railroad Tickets are easily procur- able for the whole trip across to San Francisco. It is better to buy one through ticket than to buy separately. By returning a different route from Omaha, from the one you went, the tour will be much more interesting, and give you fresh scenery constantly. 4. Buy your tickets only at known railroad offices, and never of agencies. In the West, railroads have offices at the principal hotels. These are usually perfectly reliable. 5. To Check Baggage be at every depot one-half hour or more before the departure of trains. 6. Transfer Coaches. In all Western cities there is a line of transfer coaches, which, for the uniform price of fifty cents, will take you and your baggage direct to any hotel, or transfer you at once across the city to any depot. They are trustworthy, cheap, and convenient. The agent will always pass through the train before arrival, selling transfer tickets and checks to hotels. 7. At Salt Lake City, horse-cars run from the depot direct to the hotels ; also there is an omni- bus transfer. Price, fifty cents. 8. At San Francisco the Pacific Transfer and Baggage Company will take your baggage to any hotel or private residence for 50 cents. Their agent is on every train ; you will save time by giv- ing him your check. Hotel coaches charge $1.00. Horse-cars run f i~om the wharf direct to all hotels. 9. Greenbacks are used for all railroad tickets and payment of sleeping-car berths for the en- tire distance to California ; also for all hotels to and including Salt Lake City, but beyond that, everything is payable in silver and gold. For the Central Pacific Railroad, you do not need more than $5 for coin expenses. After reaching San Francisco, you can sell your greenbacks and buy coin as often as necessary. If much coin is needed, buy and use the gold notes which are current everywhere within 300 miles of the city ; beyond that the coin only is used. Gold drafts 12 can be bought in all Eastern cities on San Francisco. 10. The uniform prices of board in the West are $4.50 per day at Chicago, $4.00 per day at Omaha, Denver, and Salt Lake City. In San Francisco, $3.00 gold per day at all hotels. To secure good nice rooms in California, the tour- ist must submit to extra charges of $1.00 to $1.50 per day. 11. If traveling with ladies, it is good policy, when within 100 miles of each city, where you expect to stop, to telegraph to your hotel in -ad- vance, requesting nice rooms reserved, always mentioning that you have ladies. 12. Whenever disposed to take horses and carriage for a ride, look out with sharp eyes for the tricks of the trade ; if no price or time is agreed upon, you will have to pay dearly, and the farther west you go, the hire of horse flesh grows dearer (though the value per animal rap- idly grows less.) Engage your livery carefully at so much per hour, and then choose your time to suit your wishes. Ten dollar bills melt quicker in carriage rides than any other " vain show." 13. Without much exception, all railroad officers, railroad conductors, Pullman car con- ductors are gentlemen in manners, courteous and civil. No passenger ever gains a point by loud orders or strong and forcible demands. You are treated respectfully by all, and the same is expected in return. The days of boisterous times, rough railroad men, and bullies in the Far West are gone, and there is as much civility there, often more, than you will find near home. 14. Railroad tickets must always be shown when baggage is checked. ROUTES. Route No. 1 from, New York. Take the Pennsylvania Central Railroad which leaves foot of Desbrosses street, by ferry, to Jersey City. To engage a good berth in your sleeping-car, go to a proper railroad office, and secure your berth by telegraph. There are local telegraphs connect- ing with the principal Pullman office. Do this the previous night, or morning, as then the best berths can be secured. Pullman cars run on the Pennsylvania Railroad to Chicago and St. Louis, direct, without change. Three trains leave per day. To see the richest scenery, take the morn- ing train and you will have a good view of nearly the entire State of Pennsylvania by daylight, the valley of the Susquehanna and Juniata, and the famous Horse-Shoe Bend by moonlight. The Pennsylvania Railroad is " always on time," the most reliable in its connections. Route No. 2 frotn Neiv YorJc. Leave via the Erie Railroad from foot of Chambers or West 23d street. The advantages of this route are numerous. This is the famous Pullman line which ran the first line of dining-cars between New York and Chicago. The meals are very fine and service excellent. The sleep- ing-cars on the Erie Railroad belong to the Pull- man Company, and are the finest in the world, of extra width and extra comfort. The scenery along the Erie Railroad (by all means take the morning train) is specially fine, and at points is remarkably lovely. The sleeping and dining- cars accompany the train to Chicago. The route passes via Salamanca, Atlantic and Great Western and Chicago extension of Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, direct without change, to Chicago. Passengers also can take other sleep- ing-cars of the train, if they wish, which will convey them direct to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, where there is direct connection via the Lake Shore Railroad or Michigan Central to Chicago. Route No. 3 From, New York is via the New York Central and Hudson River. Route No. 4 is via the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Tourists by this route, to and from California, have many advantages. It is the shortest line from Chicago or Cincinnati to the National Capitol at Washington. Its scenery, on the mountain division, between Harper's Ferry and Parkersburg, is grand and full "of historic interest. Its dining stations are exceedingly well kept, and the comforts of its parlor and sleeping-cars are equal to the very best. Pullman cars run through to and from St. Louis and Chicago. California travelers choosing this route east, will include Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia and New York on one ticket, with their numerous scenes and objects of interest. From Philadelphia. Tourists uniformly prefer the Pennsylvania Central, though many often wish to visit Baltimore and Washington, and thence see the scenery along the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and go westward via Cincin- nati to St. Louis. From Baltimore and Washington. Tourists have choice of either the Northern Central with Pennsylvania Central connections, or the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Pullman cars run on either road. From Boston. Wagner sleeping-cars run direct over the Boston and Albany Railroad, to Rochester, N. Y., and usually through to Chicago. Though this is an exceedingly con- venient route, yet it gives no scenery of conse- quence. Tourists who desire the best scenery will do well to come direct to New York, the ride by steamer being always pleasant; and from New York make their start, the pleasantest time for departure always being on the fast special ex- press in the morning. From Cincinnati, tourists have choice of two routes; 1st, via Ohio and Mississippi Railroad, direct to St. Louis, passing over the famous St. Louis Bridge, with omnibus transfer to other railroads ; or, 2d, via Indianapolis, Bloom- 13 ington and Western Railroad, which run trains direct to Burlington, la., or to Chicago. Pull- man sleeping-cars run on either route. .Fro in, Chicago, three roads run across Iowa direct to Council Bluffs. The Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad crosses the Mississippi at Burling- ton, la., and passes through Southern Iowa. The Pullman cars are very elegant, and the road popular. This line is now running dining cars attached to its express trains, on both Eastern and Western divisions. Meals served on them are splendid, beautifully cooked, great variety, and a great comfort to the traveler. Price, only 75 cts. The Chicago and North-western Kail- road is the shortest line, and crosses the Mis- sissippi at Clinton, la. The eating stations on this route are all very fine. In Iowa, especially, they are the best of the Iowa railroads. The Pullman cars are also very superior. There has recently been added a magnificent Hotel car to express trains, which increases the popu- larity of the line very greatly. The Chicago and Hock Island Kail- road crosses the Mississippi at Davenport. The view from the railroad bridge is very beau-i tiftil, and the scenery of the railroad in the Des Moines Valley, and westward, is charming. The sleeping-cars on this line are owned by the rail- road company, and are very good. The line has recently added some elegant and expensive res- taurant and dining cars, whose fine meals are exceedingly well served. Note. Upon railroads west of Chicago, no sleeping-cars run through, except those connected with the morning Pacific express train. These run direct from Chicago to Council Bluffs, where passengers will change cars for Union Pacific Railroad. From St. Louis two routes are open to the tourist. The Missouri Pacific Railroad runs up on the south side of the Missouri River, with Pullman cars, direct for Kansas City, and also The St. Louis, Kansas City and Northern, on the northern side of the river. Both of these routes are in direct connection with the Kansa-t City, St. Joseph and Council Bluffs Railroad, run through sleeping-cars from St. Louis direct to Omaha. The sleeping-car between St. Louis and Omaha, runs direct from Omaha de- pot to Kansas city, and thence alternate nights over each Missouri railroad. Council Bluffs, Iowa, Railroad Trans- fer Grounds. This, as well as Omaha, is a transfer point for all passengers, and the starting point of all trains on the Union Pacific railroad. A recent decision of U. S. Supreme Court, fixes the terminus of the Pacific Railroad on the east side of the Missouri River. The company has complied with the decision, and the necessity for bridge transfer is now entirely removed. At Council Bluffs is also the western terminus of the Iowa Railroads. A Union Depot for all rail- roads is proposed, and will soon be erected. Henceforth, all passengers, baggage, mails, freight, etc., and trains for the West, will start from this point, as well as Omaha. Passengers, however, usually prefer to take their sleeping- cars at Omaha. The city of Council Bluffs is located about three miles east from the Missouri river, and contains a population of 15,000. Its record dates from as early a period as 1804, when the celebrated explorers, Lewis and Clark, held a council with the Indians, which fact, together with the physical peculiarity of the high bluffs overlooking the town, has given it its name Council Bluffs. The . city is one of great enterprise, with a large number of public buildings, stores. State institutions, and dwellings, and is the nucleus of a large trade from surrounding Iowa towns, and is supported by a rich agricultural community. It is intimately connected with Omaha with frequent trains over the bridge, also steam ferry. It will doubtless come more largely hereafter into prominence as a railroad town, though the com- mercial importance of Omaha, and its trade with the far West, will doubtless be for a long time to come, far superior. The general offices of the Union Pacific Railroad Company will remain, for the present, at Omaha. At Council Bluffs the Union Pacific Railroad Company have reserved ample grounds, over 1,000 acres, to accommodate its own traffic and that of connecting railroads, and extensive prep- arations will be made to accommodate the vast traffic of freights, passengers, baggage and stock, which daily arrives and departs. Here are also located the stock-grounds of the company, which in time will render the locality a large stock-market. The past year over 3,000 cars of stock were transferred over the bridge, and there is ample room for extension. Keeping-Car Expenses. The tariff to travelers is as follows, with all companies, and all in greenbacks : One berth, New York to Chicago, one and one-half days, by any route, $5 00 One berth, New York to Cincinnati, one and one- half days, by Pennsylvania railroad, 4 00 One berth, New York to Cincinnati, one and one- half days, by other routes, 5 00 One berth, New York to St. Louis, two days, by any route. 6 00 One berth, Chicago or St. Louis, to Omaha, by any route, 3 00 One berth, Omaha to Ogden. by Pacific Railroad, 8 00 One berth. Ogden to San Francisco, by Central Pacific Railroad, 6 00 MEALS. All meals at all railroad dining-stations east of Omaha, $0 75 Except dinners on Erie and New York Central, 1 00 All meals on Union Pacific Railroad, 1 00 All meals on Central Pacific Railroad, first day, currency, 1 00 All meals on Central Pacific Railroad, at Colfax, coin, 75 All meals on Central Pacific Railroad, Lathrop, coin, 50 SCENES IN OMAHA. 1. General View of Omaha and the Missouri Valley. 2,-Post-Offloe. 3. High School Building. 4. Grand Central Hotel. 5. Missouri River Bridge. 15 OMASA. OMAHA occupies an exceedingly beautiful sit- uation, bold and commanding. Approaching this city from the east, the broad valley of the Missouri river first comes into view. Then, as you near Council Bluffs, the great iron bridge which spans the river is plainly visible. Behind it, looking to the west, is Omaha, covering a part of the low bottom lands, the higher table lands, and the bluffs or hills beyond. On the cover of a book recently writ- ten by an English gentleman, on the advanta- ges, etc., of Nebraska, there is a picture, in gilt, of the Union Pacific bridge. On the top of this picture the following expressive legend is inscribed : " To the Plains ; To the Mountains ; to the Pacific." This legend points the way, and means all it says. Omaha is the grand gateway through which the western tide of travel and immigration is passing, in search of what may be found, either for amusement, pleasure or profit on these plains, mountains, and the ocean named. It is the half-way house, and resting-place for those who are weary of continual travel, and has sufficient attractions to render a visit profitable and inter- esting. Early History. In June, 1853, as a party of gentlemen were standing in the shade of the bluffs, at whose feet nestled the Mormon town of Kanesville, now Council Bluffs, their eyes rested upon the spot where Omaha now stands. The plateau that ascended gently before them to the finely-rounded hills and covered with a beautiful green carpet, was a most captivating sight. It was a fine location for a city, and the question of em- barking in the enterprise of building one was discussed by the party. The project was so favorable in their view, that they shortly after crossed the river and proceeded to make a per- sonal examination of the grounds. They found their anticipations fully realized the location being even better than it had appeared in the distance. The lines were at once laid down, and the same year surveyed and lithographed. But before the survey, a town company was incorporated under the laws of Iowa, and known as the "Council Bluffs and Nebraska Ferry Company." The date of this organiza- tion was July 23, 1853. The honor of naming the town belongs to Jesse Lowe, at whose sug- gestion it was called Omaha, after a tribe of Indians which is now nearly extinct. The records of Lewis & Clark's expedition up the Missouri river, in 1804, show that they under- stand the name of this tribe as " Mahas," but we are in the dark as to how or when the letter " O " was prefixed to the name. Having per- fected their organization, the next step was to obtain title from the Indians. A preliminary treaty was made with them in the winter of 1853-54, which was ratified by the government, to which the lands reverted ; and afterwards the town site was obtained through two patents to two gentlemen who acted for the town company. The first ferry across the river was a cotton- wood craft ; but it was superseded in 1853 by a steam ferry-boat called the " General Marion." After this event, by means of advertising, the overland travel was rapidly concentrated, and Omaha began to grow. The first house was erected by the ferry company, in 1853, on the corner of Twelfth and Jackson streets. The erection of other buildings quickly followed. In 1854, the first brick kiln was burned ; and the Omaha Arrow, the first newspaper, made its appearance. The first grave was dug where Turner Hall now stands, for an old squaw of the Omaha tribe, who had been left by her com- panions to die. How prophetic the words of Whittier in his poem : " Behind the squaw's light birch canoe, The steamer smokes and raves ; And city lots are staked for sale Above old Indian graves." The first legislature of Nebraska convened in the winter of 1854-5. There was a great strife for the location of the capital, but Omaha triumphed, and in 1856 the capitol building was commenced on the ground now occupied by the High-school building, which was donated by the city. Busy Times. In 1856 things were " boom- ing" in Omaha, and corner lots were held and sold for extravagant sums, but the crash of 1857 soon followed, and men who were supposed to be wealthy the year before, found themselves penni- less, unable to obtain money enough to get away. These were forced to stay, and by this fact alone many of them are now rich and prosperous. But the discovery of gold in Colorado, in 1859, was a godsend to Omaha. It lifted it from depression and set it marching forward on the road to an enduring prosperity. White-topped wagons from the east came by the thousands. On some of them these words were painted, " Pike's Peak or bust," and " busted " the owners of many of them became as the sequel proved. It was during these flush times that many of the solid merchants and business men of Omaha laid the foundations of their wealth and commercial prosperity. In the winter of 1857 a city charter wa.s granted to Omaha, and Jesse Lowe, one of its original founders, was the first mayor. In 1869, it was chartered as a city of the first class. Up to 1867, the means of public communication with the city were stage-coaches, overland through Iowa, and the steamers on the Missouri river. In the winter the latter ceased to run. Various railroad proj- ects were agitated, but until the year 1862 nothing definite was accomplished. Meanwhile the growth of the city was slow, and attended . 16 with varying fortunes and prospects. But in that year an act was passed by Congress, author- izing the construction of a trunk railroad from the 100th meridian which is about 200 miles west of Omaha and two branches, from points on the western boundaries of Iowa and Mis- souri. The first branch that reached the 100th meridian was authorized to build the trunk line. The terminus of the northern branch was fixed by President Lincoln in a proclamation dated November 17, 1863, and from this date the progress of the city has been rapid and sub- stantial. This is manifested by the fact that in 1865 the population had scarcely reached 4,500 souls, while in January, 1875, Omaha had a population of full 20,000, an increase of 15,500 in ten years. This remarkable increase is due almost wholly to the location of the Union Pacific railroad, and from the fact that this is the initial point and eastern terminus of the road. During those ten years marvelous changes were wrought and wonderful improvements made, until Omaha can now boast of as fine business blocks, hotels, school-buildings and churches as can be found in many older and more pretentious cities in the East; while the manufacturing enterprises now in operation and contemplated, will surely make good its claim as the commercial metropolis of the Missouri val- ley. Its geographical position is eminently commanding. Its railroad connections are in- creasing, and as year by year it reaches out its iron arms, more territory will be brought to pay it tribute and establish its supremacy as the seat of influence and power. The first railroad that reached this city from the East, was the Chicago and North-western the first train over it arriving on Sunday, January 17, 1867. Then followed the Council Bluffs and St. Joe, the Burlington and Missouri River and the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific. After these came the Sioux City and Pacific, the Omaha and North-western, and the Omaha and South-western railroads. The last-named road has been leased by the Burlington and Missouri. It extends to Lincoln, the capital of the State ; then west- ward uniting with the Union Pacific at Kearney Junction. It has a branch from its main line at Crete to Beatrice, a thriving town near the southern boundary of the State. The Omaha and North-western is completed about 50 miles, and follows the valley of the Missouri on the west side of that river, north from Omaha It will probably soon be extended. More railroads are contemplated and will doubtless soon be built. Omaha is well supplied with churches, and they are generally well supported, though some of them are still without edifices for public wor- ship. All the religious denominations are repre- sented in these establishments, and some of the church edifices are tasteful and elegant, present- ing a fine architectural appearance. In public schools, however, Omaha is without a peer or a rival in the West. In 1866, the capitol of the State was removed to Lincoln, and the legislature afterwards donated the square and capitol building to Omaha for high school pur- poses. The old capitol building was torn down, and in its place was erected the present high school building ; which for beauty in design and elegance in finish has but few, if any, superiors in the country. It is 176 feet long by 80 feet wide. The spire rises 185 feet from the ground. It fitly crowns a hill, overlooking the city, plains and valley for miles in either direction, and is the first object that meets the eye of the traveler as he approaches the gateway of the Pacific coast. Its cost was about $250,000, and is the pride of the city by whose liberality it was built. Other elegant school buildings have been erected in different parts of the city, the total costs of which, with grounds, including the high school building, amounts to $406,000. There are also several denominational and private schools which are liberally patronized. Here are the government buildings ; such as the head-quarters building used by the com- manding officers of the military department of the Platte ; the barracks about two miles north of the city, and the elegant post-office, court- house and custom-house combined, finished last year (1875). There are also numerous elegant private resi- dences, with grounds beautifully ornamented with trees and shrubbery, and magnificent busi- ness blocks, which sufficiently attest the solid prosperity of Omaha's business men. Travelers who take advantage of the oppor- tunity for rest which this city offers, may be always certain of good hotel accommodations. The want of such accommodations was recently felt, not only by citizens, but by the traveling public a few years ago. But, happily, this want has been supplied in the erection of the Grand Central Hotel, by a stock company in 1873. It is a magnificent structure, 132 x 122 feet, and five stories high, with large parlors, dining-rooms and suites of rooms, all elegantly furnished, and is first-class in its management and appointment. Those who enjoy the hospitality of this fine hotel once, are always anxious to do it again. It is, without doubt, the finest structure, and the best managed establishment of the kind between Chicago and San Francisco. Its cost was fully $300,000, not including furniture. Railroad ticket-offices and telegraph-offices may be found on the first floor of this hotel, with furnish- ing stores, etc., convenient. Its halls and public rooms are heated by steam, and it has water on the lower floors, with gas throughout. The fur- niture cost over $50,000. It has 150 rooms for the accommodation of its guests. In manufactures, Omaha begins to loom up. She has an oil-mill, which supplies the extensive 17 demand for linseed oil and oil-cake in the Mis- souri Valley; several breweries, two distiller- ies, foundry and machine-shops ; carriage and wagon-shops and other manufactories, either in progress or in contemplation. Among these may be found in active operation, the extensive machine-shops, car works and foundry of the Union Pacific Railroad, and the Omaha smelting- works. The shops of the railroad occupy, with the roundhouse, about 30 acres of land on the bottom adjoining the table-land on which most of the city proper is built. Over one million of dollars are paid out annually by the company for office and manual labor alone, in the city of Omaha. This does not include payments for merchandise and supplies. The value of this business, and the location of these shops to the city can therefore bs readily seen, and is no small factor in Omaha's prosperity. One of ths principal causes of Omaha's growth and prosperity will be found in tlu character of its newspapers, tha Herald, tha Republican and the Bee. Ths Omnha Arrow, the first news- paper, was not strictly an Omaha concern, it being published in the office of the Kaneuville (Council Bluffs) Bugle. The Nebr-ixkian was established shortly after the Arrow (1854), and lived until 183 L In 1857, the Weekly Times was established, which was afterwards absorbed by the Nebraskian. In May, 1858, the first number of the Omaha Republican was issued. It was consolidated with a rival republican paper, the Omaha Tribune, in 1871. The last- named papar was started on the 25th of January in 1870. In 1884, the Omaha Daily Herald was first issued. It is democratic in politics, and a lively, vigorous sheet. The Daily Evening Times was started in the latter part of 1868, and was moved, the following spring, to Sioux City. In June, 1871, the publication of the Daily Evening Bee was commenced. It is republican in politics, and a wide-awake paper. The Omaha Union (daily) was also established in 1874, by the Printers' Union, on the co-operative plan. It was a spicy, energetic little sheet, but was short-lived. Business of Omaha. Facts Interest- ing and Curious. When Omaha was first entitled to the honor of a post-office, the story is told that the first postmaster used his hat for a post-office, which he carried with him wherever he went, delivering to anxious individuals who were waiting eagerly for him, or chased and over- took him. Twenty years after, Omaha possesses a handsome stone post-office worth $350,000, and the finest government building west of the Mississippi River. The total receipts at this post- office for 1875, were $1,089,660.34. The total number of letters and newspapers delivered was 1,313,640; and number of money orders issued and received, 16,070. In 1861, the first telegraph reached Omaha, 2 and its only office was, for several years, the terminus of the Pacific Telegraph. Now there are 2 } telegraph wires radiating in all directions ; 15 offices, employing 40 operators. The number of messages per day average 3,500, or about 350,- 000 letters, of which about one-third relates to Pacific railroad business. The total value of school buildings in Omaha is $405,000, and the sum spent for erecting new buildings and stores in 1875, was $360,000. Omaha is the head-quarters of the army of the Platte, and disburses per annum about $950,000, besides an annual transportation ac- count with the Pacific Railroad Company of $350,000. In 1865, Omaha did not have a single manu- facturing establishment. In 1875, her manufac- tories employed over 2,000 men. Here are located the largest smelting and refining works in America, the Omaha smelting-works, who em- ploy 135 men, and do an annual business of over $4,000,000. Seven breweries turn out 14,000 barrels of beer. One distillery pays the govern- ment a tax of $316,000 per year, and upward of 50 other smaller enterprises, among which is a not- able industry, the manufacture of brick ; over 500,000,000 brick being turned out of her four brick-yards. The bank capital and surplus ex- ceed $3,000,000. In overland times, before the building of the Pacific Railroad, or just at its commencement, the wholesale trade of Omaha was wonderful. Single houses handling as much as $3,000,000 per an- num. Since that time the courses of trade have been so divided, that the largest sales now of any wholesale establishment do not exceed $1,200,000. Large quantities of Utah fruit are received at Omaha, both dried and fresh, and a large market opened ; 40 car-loads were received in 1875, from Salt Lake City. This is one of the greatest curiosities developed by the Pacific Railroad. Corn is shipped west from Omaha to feed the inhabitants of tl*e Salt Lake Valley, while the same cars bring back their surplus fruit. In 1871, the first shipment of fruit was made, 300 pounds. In 1875, the trade amounted to 900,000 pounds. The business of collecting and drying hides, buffalo robes, pelts and furs alone is $150,000 per year, and to supply the prairie settlements with such modern inventions as the sewing- machine, requires over $250,000 per year; one company alone having sold last year $191,000 worth. One dealer reports a sale of such frivoli- ties as 568 Canary birds, and 331 baby carriages. Perhaps the best index of the enormous trade of Omaha is gained from the statements of rail- road transportation. The total number of cars of freight received at Omaha from the East, 'in 1875, was 10,045, of which above 3,689 were of coal, and 1.500 additional of grain from the West. The freight paid by Omaha merchants 18 in 1875 upon goods received for consumption was $744,24:8. From the West there were received 1,277 cars of bullion, 40 of ore, and 4 for soda. These items are of the trade and consumption of Omaha only, and not the main traffic of the railroad. These are only a few of the many important items which show how vast a business has been built in 20 years, from the smooth, unopened prairie soil, now made rich and active with the hum of industry. The U. P. R. It. Bridge Across the Missouri River. The huge bridge, which spans the Missouri, is a fitting entrance to the wonders beyond a mechanical wonder of itself, it fills every traveler with a sense of awe and majesty, as the first great scene of the overland journey. The last piece of iron of the last span which completed the bridge was fastened in its place on the 20th of February, 1872. Previous to that time, all passengers and traffic were transferred across the treacherous and shifting shores of the Missouri River in steam-boats with flat keel, and with the ever-shifting currents and sand-bars, safe landings were always uncertain. The bridge comprises 1 1 spans, each span 250 feet in length, and elevated 50 feet above high water-mark. These spans are supported by one stone masonry abutment, and 11 piers with 22 cast-iron col- umns; each pier is 8 1-2 feet in diameter, and made of cast-iron in tubes one and three-fourths inches in thickness, 10 feet in length, with a weight of eight tons. As fast as the tubes of the columns are sunk, they are fitted together, seams made air-tight, and process continued till the complete depth and height is attained. Dur- ing the building of the bridge from February, 1869, when work first commenced, until com- pletion in 1872 (excepting a period of eight mouths suspension), about 500 men were con- stantly employed. Ten steam-engines were in use for the purpose of operating the pneumatic works to hoist the cylinders, help put the super- structure into position, to drive piles for tempo- rary platforms and bridges, and to excavate sand within the columns. The columns were sunk into the bed of the river after being placed in correct position by the following method : The top of the column being made perfectly air-tight, all water beneath is extracted by pneumatic exhaustion. Then descending into the interior, a force of workmen excavate the sand and earth, filling buckets which are quickly hoisted up- wards by the engines. When the excavation has reached one or more feet, the column sinks gradually inch by inch, more or less rapidly, un- til a solid bottom is reached. The least time in which any column was sunk to bed rock from the commencement of the pneu- matic process was seven days, and the greatest single depth of sinking at one time was 17 feet. The greatest depth below low water which was reached by any column, at bed rock, was 82 feet. The g?-eatest pressure to which the men working in the columns were subjected, was 54 pounds per square inch in excess of the atmosphere. When solid foundation is once obtained, the interior of the columns are filled with solid stone concrete for about 25 feet, and thence upward with ce- ment masonry, till the bridge is reached. The total length of the iron structure cf the bridge is 2,750 feet. The eastern approach is by an embankment of gradual ascent one and a half miles in length, commencing east of the Transfer grounds, and almost at Council Bluffs, and thence ascending at the rate of 35 feet to the mile to the bridge. The old depot grounds of the Union Pacific Railroad were on the bank of the river immedi- ately beneath the bridge. When this was con- structed, in order to connect the bridge and main line of the railroad, it was necessary to construct, directly through the city, a branch line of road 7,000 feet in length, and construct a new depot on higher ground, of which as a result, witness the handsome, new structure, and spacious roof, and convenient waiting- rooms. From the first abutment to the bank, a trestle-work of 700 feet more, 60 feet in height was constructed; thus the entire length of the bridge, with necessary approaches, is 9,950 feet. Total cost is supposed to be about $2,650,000, and the annual revenue about $400,000. The bridge has figured nota- bly in the discussions of Congress, whether or not it should be considered a part of the Union Pacific Railroad. The recent de- cision of the United States Supreme Court has at last declared it so to be. and with this is done away entirely the " Omaha Bridge Trans- fer " of the past. Preparing for the Westivard Trip. Having rested and visited the principal points of interest in Omaha, you will be ready to take a fresh start. Repairing to the new depot, fin- ished last year (1875), at the crossing of Ninth street, you will find one of the most magnificent trains of cars made up by any railroad in the United States. Everything connected with them is first-class. Pullman sleeping-coaches are at- tached to all express trains, and all travelers know how finely they are furnished, and how they tend to relieve the wearisome monotony of tedious days in the journey from ocean to ocean. At this depot you will find the waiting-rooms, ticket-offices, baggage-rooms, lunch-stands, news and bookstand, together with one of the best kept eating-houses in the country. You will find gentlemanly attendants at all these places, ready to give you any information, and cheerfully answer your questions. If you have a little time, step into the Union Pacific Land office adjoining the depot, on the east, and see some of the pro- 19 cl actions of this prolific western soil. If you have come from the far East, it has been a slightly itphill journey all the way, and you are now at an elevation of 966 feet above the sea. If the weather is pleasant, you may already begin to feel the exhilarating effect of western breezes, and comparatively dry atmosphere. With books and papers to while away .your leisure hours, you are finally ready for the start. The bell rings, the whistle shrieks, and off you go. The road first winds up a little valley, passing the Bridge Junction 1.5 (one and five- tenths) miles to Summit Sid- inff, 3.2 miles from Omaha ; eleva- tion 1,142 feet. This place, you will ob- serve by these fig- ures, is reached by a heavy up grade. You are 176 feet higher than when you first started, and but little over three miles away. Here is a deep cut through the hill, and beyond it you strike Mud Creek Valley with a down grade for a few miles. This creek and the road run south on a line nearly parallel with, and about two and a half miles from, the Missouri River until the next sta- tion is reached. GUmore. It is 9.5 miles from Oma- ha, with only 10 feet difference in eleva- tion 976 feet. The valley is quite thick- ly settled, and as you look out on the left side of the cars, about four miles from Omaha, you will see a saloon called Half-Way House. At about this point you leave Douglas County and enter Sarpy County. Gilmore'was named after an old resident of that locality, now dead Here you are some nine miles south of Omaha, but only about three west of the Missouri River. Here you will first s-e what are called the bottom lands of Nebraska. They are as rich as any lands on this Continent, as the re- markable crops raised thereon fully attest. From this station you turn nearly due west, and pass over the lower circle of what is called the ox-bow. Papilion, 14 5 miles from Omaha; eleva- tion 972 feet, is the next station, and is a thriv- ing little town (pronounced Pa-pil-yo). It derives its name from the creek on whose banks it is situ- ated. This creek was named by Lewis and Clark in their expedition to Oregon, in 1804, and is derived from a Latin word which means butter- fly. The main branch was crossed a little west ofGilmore. It emp- ties into the Mis- souri River about one mile north of the Platte River. It is reported that the early explorers named, saw an im- mense number of butterflies in the muddy and wet places near its mouth, and hence the name. These gentlemen explored this stream to its source, near the Elk- horn River. The town was laid out in the fall of 1869 by Dr. Beadle, and is the permanent county-seat of Sar- py County. It has a fine brick court- house, and a brick school-house, hotels, flouring mills and a grain ware-house ; is located as are all the towns on the first two hundred miles of this road, in the midst of a rich agricultural country. Sarpy County has two newspapers one the Pupilion Times, published at this GOOD-BYE." place, and the other, the Sarpy County Sentinel published at Sarpy Center, some five miles in the country from this station. Sarpy is one of the best settled counties in Nebraska, and has a property valuation of over $3,000,000. Millar>t glorious to see. The beauty of it held us anl forced us to stop. The glow did not gradually ripen into fullness, but sud- denly, and in all its intensity, struck upon a prominent ridge, lighting up the crags and cliffs, and even the rocks and stones, in all their de- tails, and then by degrees it extended and spread on either side over the foot-hills, bringing out the projecting slopes and shoulders from deep gloom into clear light, and throwing back the valley into blackest shade. Every rock and precipice seem id close at hand, and shone and glowed with such radiance that you could trace the very rents and crevices in the cliff faces, and mark the pine trees clinging to the sides, while in comparison the deep recesses of the chasms and canons seemil to extend for miles back into dark shadow. As the sun sank, so rose the light, rushing up.v.ird, surging over the hills in a wave of crimson mist, really beautiful to be- hold, anl illuminating the great bulk of the range, while the peaks were still darkly rearing their sullen heads above the tide, and the valleys w;re all filled with gray vapors. At last the glare caught the mist, and in an instant trans- form ;d it from gray cloud into a gauzy, half- transparent vail, light, airy, delicate exceed- ingly, in color like the inner petals of the rose. Then, as the sun dropped suddenly, the light flashed upon the summit, the peaks leaped into startling life, and the darkness fell." Broivnitoft. Simply a side track. Elevation 4,200 feet above the sea. Distance from Omaha, 423.2 miles. The station was named after a for- mer general freight agent of the Union Pacific. From Sidney, and in this vicinity, the bluffs are rugged, and look like fortifications, or the old castles that we read about. They are simply indications of the grand scenery which is to follow. Potter. 433.1 miles from Omaha. Elevation 4,370 feet. It is a telegraph station. West of Potter you cross the bed of a diy creek, which leads into the Lodge Pole. Jtiennett. Another side track, at which pas- senger trains do not stop. There is a fine stock ranche near by, and the grazing in this vicinity is excellent. The station is named after Colonel Bennett, the efficient superintendent of the Pull- man Palace Car Company at Omaha. It is 442.3 miles from the eastern terminus of the road, with an elevation of 4,580 feet. Attfelope. 451.3 miles from Omaha. Eleva- tion, 4,712 feet. A telegraph and coal station, with side tracks and section house. In Novem- ber, 1875, the Indians, who have a liking for good and fast horses, equal to that of Bonner, the New York Ledger man, went to the ranche of Mr. Jones, a Kentuckian, about twenty miles south of this station, and stole some forty head of blooded horses and mares which he had there for breeding purposes. They are supposed believed to have gone north, and if Uncle Sam's Indian agents would withhold rations from the tribe until they were brought back, or make a thorough search for them, they could undoubted- ly be found. Many of the animals were thorough- breds, and very valuable. Here is another viola- tion of the Sioux treaty. Mr. Jones will have to pocket his loss, while Uncle Sam will, of course, pocket the insult. Antelope is the home of some old hunters, and if the traveler desires to hear their experiences, let him stop a day and inter- view Jack Evans, who lias a laiuhe here, and Mr. Goff, who has been engaged in the business some fourteen years. Landscape of the Colorado Plains. There is a charm in life on the great plains. To one who visits it for the first time, it seems lonely indeed, and yet it is never wearisome. Now ocme great rolling uplands of enormous sweep, then boundless grassy plains, and all the grandeur of vast monotony and desolation. Sometimes the grand distances are broken by rugged buttes and bluffs. As they rise in sight, the traveler is as eager in his curiosity as the sea voyager just catching his first view of the dis- tant shore. Over all these plains there is a sparkling, enthusiasm-giving atmosphere, crisp, strong, magnetic, and a never-failing breeze; even in the hottest days, or portions of the day, the air is bracing, and rarely ever is the sky long cloudless. That vastness of solitude, boundless plains, and boundless sky. that stretch of blue, that waste of brown, never a tree, river, bird, or ani- mal, home or life of any nature, who can de- scribe the sensations, which are so overpowering. As you approach the mountains, the Colorado plains assume more verdure, as they are better watered by the little streams from the foot-hills, or bedewed by the mountain showers. In sum- 59 mer time the landscape is green, and the plains covered with flowers, while in autumn, with the yellow of the prairie grass, the flowers ever stay, new ones coming as old ones disappear. The sunflower is the most profuse of all the species of vegetation that spring up wherever the soil is opened. For thousands of miles, wherever the railroad or a wagon route has made its way across the country, there spring up parallel rows of the ever-living sunflower. In the eastern por- tions of the plains of Nebraska and Kansas, near the Missouri River, may be seen square miles of sunflowers, 7 to 9 feet high ; as we travel farther west, they gradually dwindle until they are, in Colorado, only 3 to 9 inchfs in height, the oddest little plant in nature, yet perfect in shape and growth. years yet to come, to be only the grazing-field of thousands of buffalo or herds of cattle. Water is scarce, irrigation is impossible, rains uncer- tain, and in many parts the soil is full of soda and alkali. The western march of settlement practically ends at the one hundredth meridian of longitude North Platte. Coyotes. Pioneers, Indians and drivers, unite in the most thrilling exclamations of their detestations of this, the meanest of the animal tribe that infest the plains. Just after twilight, if you happen to be encamped on the plains, you will hear not far off the quick bark of a single coyote. This is the first call, the bugle cry. Then come answers, and the pack of wolves assemble rapidly, and just as darkness closes down, you have but one enjoyment left, to listen to the most Into this vast area of plains, which reaches from east to west 500 miles, and north to south 1,000 miles, there can be poured nearly all the population of Europe and Asia. Swallowing up by the thousands, the plains, with open mouth, wait with insatiate appetite for more. Into this area can be put the whole of India. It is twice as large as Hindostan, and as large as the whole of the United States east of Chicago. Agriculture is certain as far west as the three hundredth mile from the Missouri River; from thence westward, to the immediate vicinity of the mountains, no crops can at present be raised. This reach of 200 miles or more is, for many dismal of howling matches. As each new comer arrives he is welcomed with a howl. Each howl is short, and by the band there seems to be a chosen few who execute them in proper manner, with all the variations. After these few have performed some of their most " striking airs," a silence of a few moments' duration follows, and then the whole band breaks out with the most un- earthly noises, which are second to no other noises of plains and mountains Kit Carson once said of these howls, "that it was only a little dispute as to which coyote had, as the winner of the match, the right to take the stakes (steaks)." A trav- eler says of them : " It is quite impossible to do 60 full justice to this wolf music. There is no racket known to the inhabitants of the more civilized sections of our country which will com- pare with it. All the felines in the neighbor- hood would not make a noise which would begin to equal wolf music." Strange as it may seem, the rough pioneer esteems this music his sweetest lullaby, for as one of the old " rough and readies" says : " If any redskin should take it under his scalp to look about camp, every cuss of them coyotes would shut up his trap and wake the fel- lows up with the quiet" So long as the coyote cries there is no danger from Indians the moment he ceases, danger is near so the pioneer esteems their music his best lullaby, and their bark his safety. Occasionally the pack, toward early morning, will make a raid into the traveler's camp, and grab any edibles or pieces left within reach; even sometimes seizing the very haversack upon which the sleeper's head is pillowed, but seldom ever touching the per- sons of the campers. As morning approaches, they retire to a safe distance from camp, and squatted on their haunches like dogs, wait till the party leaves. The plains men have an old saying, " That the coyotes can smell a Stales feller, and then you will not see a coyote anywhere within sight of camp." The explanation for which is supposed to be as follows, given also by the old plains men : " States fellers shoots at any live thing as jumps in their sight, whether it is any 'count to them or no." Adams. A side track 457.3 miles from Omaha; elevation 4,784 feet. The country here is considerably broken, and between the bluffs on either side huge boulders crop out. Bushnell, 403.2 miles from Omaha, and 4,860 feet above the sea. It is simply a side track with water tank. In coming up this val- ley the railroad crosses the Lodge Pole Creek, or its little branches, several times. Near Bushnell is a trestle bridge across the creek. Hailstorms, This region of country is fre- quently, in summer, visited with hailstorms and cloud-bursts. In the summer of 1875, a train was overtaken by one of these hailstorms, and not a whole pane of glass was left in the side of the cars toward the storm. The glass in skylights on the top of the cars was broken, and many of the hailstones, as large as a man's fist, bounded through the cars on the opposite side. The wooden sides of the cars were dented, and the sheet-iron casing of the engine-boiler looked as though it had passed through a violent case of the small-pox. When these cloud-bursts occur, the drops of rain seem as large as walnuts, and come so fast that the entire surface of the ground is covered the surplus water not having time to run off. In such storms the road is liable to washouts, and great care is necessary in the run- ning of trains to avoid accidents. Bushnell is the last station in Nebraska. Just across the line, between it and Wyoming, comes Pine Bluffs, 473.2 miles from Omaha ; ele- vation 5,026 feet. The little station takes its name from the stunted pines along the bluffs. Pine timber once was plenty here, but it disap- peared when the road was built. It is the great trail and crossing point for Indians passing from the buffalo grounds on the Republican to Horse Creek and North Platte River. Was several times attacked by Indians during construction of road, several were killed and large amounts of stock stolen. It is now the head-quarters of Judge Tracy's cattle ranche, and several carloads of cattle are shipped each year. Muddy Creek is just west of station, has water most of the time, yet Lodge Pole Creek, beyond Egbert, sinks in the sand. Water can be found in the bed of the stream by digging 3 to 9 feet. .This is a telegraph station, with side track, cattle-yards and chutes. Tracy, 478.8 miles from Omaha ; elevation 5,149 feet. It is a siae track named in honor of Judge Tracy of Cheyenne. Ef/berf, 484.4 miles from Omaha ; elevation 5,272 feet. It is a side track with water tank. Three miles south of this side track runs the Muddy, which has quite a settlement of ranche- men. The Lodge Pole at this point is still dry, and the company dug thirty-two feet for the water which supplies their tank. The road here leaves the main valley of the Lodge Pole, to the right, and runs up a branch, in which the bed of a creek is visible, but which never has water in it except after the cloud-bursts spoken of. Burns, 490.7 miles from the Missouri River, with an elevation of 5,428 feet. The grade is now quite heavy as we are going up on to the divide between the Lodge Pole and Crow Creek. Burns is simply a side track where trains occa- sionally meet and pass. HiUsdale, a telegraph station with side track and section-house. The place takes its name from a Mr. Hill, who was killed here by the In- dians at the time the road was located. He belonged to the engineer corps of the road. The company's well here, which supplies the water tank, is 72 feet deep. North and south of this sta- tion numerous sheep ranches have been opened. By looking straight west, up the track, you can here obtain the first glimpse of the Black Hills of Wyoming and they will come into plain view as you ascend the heavy grade toward the divide. Hillsdale is 5,591 feet above the sf a, and 496.4 miles from Omaha. Notice the grade indicated by the elevations as you pass these stations. Atkins, 5Q2.Q miles from Omaha, and 5,800 feet above the sea. It is a side track, simply, with water tank and section-house near by. The well which supplies this station with water is over 200 feet deep. Here the traveler obtains a good view of the Black Hills stretching off to the right. Still up the grade you go, reaching the 61 summit of the divide in the first snow shed on the line of the road just beyond Archer, which is 508 miles from the starting place, with an elevation of 6,000 feet above tide- water. This station is a side track with section- house near by. A short distance farther, you makes its way through the bluffs off to the left. Soon we come to a deep cut through the spur of a bluff, passing which, we cross a bridge over a dry ravine, and then continue up the hill to the " Magic City " of the plains, called Cheyenne. Lony's Jfeak. Travelers will notice, a few LONG'S PEAK FROM ESTES PARK. enter the shed; it seems like passing through a tunnel. In the distance there are mountains "to the right of you," and mountains "to the left of you," but we shall see more of them here- after. Leaving the snow shed we are now on a down grade into Crow Creek Valley, which hours before reaching Cheyenne, the snow-clad summit of this bold peak, rising above the dis- tant horizon. It is about sixty miles south-west of the Union Pacific Railroad, and the highest mountain in northern Colorado. The view we here give is taken from Estes Park ; a beautiful 62 little park on its north-western slope, and about twelve miles distant from the summit. This park is about four miles wide, and six miles long, is well sheltered, easy of access, and beautifully covered with pine and spruce trees, scattered easily about over the grassy surface, which gives to it a true park-like loveliness. It is partially occupied by a few families who have taken up permanent homesteads, and has been for a long time an excellent pasture for large herds of cattle which live here the entire year. It is also becom- ing quite a pleasure resort, and has many at- tractive features to interest the health seeker and tourist. Excellent fishing, in lovely little trout streams, can be found all over the vicinity. From this valley is the only practicable route for ascending the peak. Long's Peak is 14,271 feet in elevation, arid about 6,300 feet above the park. Its construction is of the boldest and most de- cided character, with great walls, deep canons; and on its sides there are gorges and caverns among the grandest on the continent. Its sum- mit is divided into two sharp crests, the western one being the highest and most difficult of ascent. It is a famous landmark for a stretch of country of more than a hundred miles from north to south. Ktiffaloes. Buffalo hunting is a pastime tourists can now have little hope to indulge in. Few or no buffaloes ever appear within sight of the car windows of the overland trains, and the vast herds which once roamed for thousands of mil;s and continually up and down the great plain, are passing away, or disappearing f emu their old haunts to find some nook or corner more quiet and secure. Thousands of them have been killed during the past two or three winters for commercial purposes. The hides are stripped off and sold for as low prices as $1.50, while the bones are gathered in heaps near the railroad station and freighted eastward to be used for commercial fertilizers. In one winter it is esti- mated that on the lines of the Union and Kansas Pacific Kailroad there were killed over 100,000 head. A Smart, Indian Trade. The Indians which in olden times used to visit the military posts, were noticeable for their great anxieties to trade, and for their great shrewdness, which had often the spice of humor. At one of the posts a Kiowa chief endeavored to consummate a bargain for an officer's wife, by offering as an equivalent a large number of fat dogs ; the number was so large that the Indians present thinking it was impossible for the officer to withstand so tempting an offer, made haste to express their willingness to help eat the dugs, if there were more than the white man could man- age for himself. But it is among the Indians themselves that the sharpest species of trading is seen. In the great passion of tb.3 Indian for " fire-water" whisky there comes out, in their trade for it, all the possible shrewdness and cunning of the races. At one time, as a military officer relates the story, there was a Kiowa village, beautifully located for the winter near a grove of old cotton- wood trees. The fact that the village was rich in buffalo robes and other skins became known to a band of the Cheyenne tribe. Stealing would not answer, as there were too many Kiowas and too few Cheyennes. But the shrewdness of the Cheyennes appeared soon in the shape of a bottle of whisky ; how they obtained it was a mystery not explained. With their whisky, the Cheyennes proceeded to the Kiowa village, exhibited their bottles, and distributed around a few judicious smells of the refreshing corn juice ; every now and then giving the bottle a shake, so that the aroma should be thoroughly appreciated by their Jrienda the Kiowas. The smells were freely accepted, and there was an uncommon desire manife?ted to know more (i. e., get better acquainted) of the Cheyennes. Pipes were produced and duly smoked; after which the visitors announced their willingness to trade, as they said " They had not brought much whisky, as they did not know that their brothers, the Kiowas would like to see it. The little that they had with them was good ai:d very strong," (with water) " when the Kiowas had tasted of it (hey would see." The Cheyenne was liberal, '-he would give so much," (holding up the bottle and marking \\ith the thumb something like half an inch of the whisky). " But seeing that the Kiowas were not in haste to trade, the Cheyennes would smoke with them." Meanwhile a kindly disposed bottle-holder was dispensing smells of the whisky to a few Kiowas, who were loud in their announcements of the number of fine robes which they possessed. This second smoke was quickly finished, and the Cheyenne again ex- hibited iheflre.irater, marking it as before by the location of the thumb on the bottle. A general exclamation followed, for to the Kiowa's eye the position of the thumb on the bottle was so very much higher (i. e., so much less whisky than before). To this Cheyenne had no consideration ; the trouble he said, was with the eyes of the Kiowas, which could not be ex- pected to see big like those of a Cheyenne. Another smelling time ensued, which was followed by an instantaneous exhibition by the Kiowas of tin cups and robes, and the Cheyennes began to pour out the whisky. ^ While pouring out the promised grog, the posi- tion of the thumb on the bottle was regarded by each Kiowa with the most exact scrutiny, which effectually prevented all attempts to shove up the gauge. And it was noticeable by the care of the bottle-holders, that when the bottle was held up after each pass, no Indian could detect the slightest variation between the whisky mark and the position of the finger on the bottle. The Kiowas did not get drunk, and the Chey- ennes left the village with all their ponies loaded with robes, having as they freely remarked, made a " heap smart trade" Astonishment of Indians at tlie Loco- motive and Telegraphs. When the first locomotive was seen passing over the plains, an Indian guide in the employ of the United States, exclaimed with inexpressible surprise, "Good Medicine, yimd medicine. Look look," at the tu-te (toot). As he passed under the telegraph wires which then were stretching along the Platte, through which the wind as it swept, made the whirr and singing sound of a prairie harp, this guide heard the sound, and directly declared that they were talking " medicines." This was sup- posed to be the creations of the great spirit, and everything of supernatural nature was "medi- cine." The Indians have rarely ever molested the tele- graph wires which spanned the continent. Per- haps the following incident may have much to do with their respectful and distant attitude : Shortly after the wires were erected, the attaches of the Telegraph Company invited a number of Indian chiefs to meet them at a given point, and from thence to travel, one party East and the other AVest. When they had reached a distance of 100 miles apart, each party was invited to dictate a message to the other, which was sent over the wires. Th3ii turning backward, they rode rapidly toward each other, and two days later met and compared notes. They were greatly astonished, and ex- pressed themselves convinced that the " Great Spirit " had talked to them with the. wires. They decided from that time it would be well to avoid meddling with the wires. Soon after a little incident happened, which, in the minds of the Indians, seemed to settle forever the opinion that the telegraph belonged to the Great Spirit. A young Sioux Indian was determined to show that he had no faith in the* Great Spirit's connection with the wires, so he set to work with his hatchet to cut down one of the telegraph poles. A severe thunder-storm was going on at a distance ; a charge of electricity being taken up by the wires, was passed to the pole which the Indian was cutting, and resulted in his instant death. After that the tribe never molested the telegraph again. An Indian Prayer. The following actual translation of an Indian prayer will give an idea of their feelings and longings, and the extent of their moral sentiments. It is a prayer to the Great Spirit by a Crow Indian : " I am poor ; that is bad." " Make me a Chief ; give me plenty of horses ; give me fine clothing. I ask for good spotted horses." " Give me a large tent ; give me a great many horses ; let me steal fine horses ; grant it to me." " Give me guns by cheating ; give me a beauti- ful woman ; bring the buffalo close by." " No deep snow ; a little snow is good." " Give me Black Feet to kill or to die ; close by, all together." " Stop the people from dying, it is good." " Give instruments for amusements, blankets too, and fine meats to eat." " Give the people altogether plenty of fine buf- falo, and plenty to eat." CHEYENNE. "Magic City of the Plains," 516 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,041 feet. Thus truly is it named, for it is at present the most active and stirring city on the entire line. Travelers will here take a dinner in comfortable style at one of the best kept hotels between the two oceans. It is a good place to rest after a tiresome journey, and it will pay to stop a few days and enjoy the pure air and genial sun in this high altitude. The hotel is owned by the railroad company, and is 150 feet long by 36 wide, with a wing 25 feet square. It has an elegant dining-hall, around which hang the heads of antelope, deer, elk, mountain-sheep, black-tailed deer, buffalo, etc., all nice! -j preserved and looking very natural. It is two stories high, the upper floor being well furnished with sleeping-rooms for guests. Cheyenne is the capital of Wyoming and the county-seat of Laramie County. Cheyenne has had its ups and downs. Once very lively when the road was building, then it fell dead and motionless. Now it has arisen again, and is the largest town on the railroad between Omaha and Salt Lake City, having a population of fully 4,000, and rapidly growing. There are twb causes for this growth. First, the stock interests which center here, and second, the recent gold dis- coveries in the Black Hills. Up to the year 1875, it was the terminus of the Denver Pacific Rail- road, and had the advantages of a competing line of railroad ; but since the virtual consolida- tion of the Kansas Pacific and Union Pacific interests, it no longer enjoys these advantages. During the last two years there has been a large increase in the permanent buildings of the city. In 1875, the Inter-Ocean hotel was completed a fine brick structure three stories high, and other large and elegant brick blocks with iron and glass fronts. In proportion to its population, Cheyenne has more elegant and substantial business houses than most any other western city. Its inflation period has long since passed away, and its future growth, like its present, will be siibstantial and permanent. The town has a fine court-house and jail, which cost f 40,000, a large public school building, a good city hall, and a brick opera-house. This is a wonderful change for a place known the 65 world over by its fearful sobriquet of " Hell on Wheels." Churches have come where gamblers once reigned ; and in five years as many edifices for religious purposes have been erected. The Episcopalians, Methodists, Presbyterians, Congre- gationalists and Catholics have all comfortable church buildings. The school accommodations, owing to the rapid growth of the city, will soon have to be enlarged. At first sight the traveler would naturally inquire, what there was to build and sustain a town here ? The soil is not prolific, nor is the country around it. Crow Creek bottom is quite narrow, and in the most favorable seasons, by irrigation, " garden truck " may be raised, but beyond this everything looks barren and desolate. The soil has a reddish appearance, and appears to consist of decomposed granite underlaid in the valleys with sand and on the uplands with rock. In fact, a man who attempts to farm it for a living in this region of country is simply fooling away his time. Stock Interests. The rich nutritious gras- ses with which the great plains are covered are here found in all their excellence, and the large territory east of the base of the Black Hills, north as far as the North Platte River and south to the Gulf of Mexico, is now sustaining millions of sheep and cattle. Cheyenne is located in the midst of one of the best sections of this territory, and all around it are the ranches of stockmen men engaged in growing cattle, sheep, horses and mules for market. With the exception of sheep, no hay is cut for these animals except for those kept up for use. Winter and summer they thrive and fatten upon nothing but the native grasses. Cheyenne is the central and natural trading- point for these ranchmen and stock growers. Another large and valuable element of its pros- perity is the railroad trade the company having here quite extensive machine and repair shops, with a commodious roundhouse. Hunting and exploring parties also supply themselves with out- fits at this place, and immense quantities of mili- tary and Indian supplies also pass through here for the posts and Indian agencies north. To give an idea of the stock business which centers here, and its rapid increase, let us state that 375 cars of cattle were shipped in 1874. which represent 7,500 head. In 1875, the shipments in- creased to 525 cars, or 10,500 head, with prospects for a large increase in 1876 and future years. It may be well to state here, the shipments from other points in this grazing belt of the country : North Platte in 1875 shipped 96 cars, or 1,920 head. Ogalalla, " " 207 " 4,140 " Julesburg, " " 216 " 4,320 " Sidney, " " 93 " 1,860 " Pine Bluffs, " " 208 " 4,160 " This statement does not include the cattle mar- keted at home or supplied to the Indian agencies in the north. Sixty thousand head of cattle, seventy thousand sheep and four thousand horses and mules are the estimated number owned and held in Laramie County alone. The development of the cattle and stock interests of this vast up- land region is something never thought of nor entered the heads of the projectors of the railroad. In 1867, when the railroad first arrived, there was not probably a hundred head of all kinds owned in the whole territory, outside of those belonging to contractors and stage lines. Now it is a leading interest, and represents millions of dollars. Like all other frontier towns, Cheyenne has a history, and it is similar to that of others. It was once a very fast town, and it is not very slow now. On the 1st day of July, 1867, it had one house built and owned by Judge J. R. Whitehead, on Eddy street, between Sixteenth and Seventeenth. That house stands to-day, and is known as the Whitehead block. It was built of logs and smoothly plastered, outside and in. lioiif/h Times. When it was known that this was to be the winter terminus of the road, there was a grand hegira of roughs, gamblers and pros- titutes from Julesburg and other places down the road to this point, and in the fall of that year and winter of '68, Cheyenne contained 6,000 inhab- itants. Habitations sprang up like mushrooms. They were of every conceivable character, and some were simply holes in the ground, otherwise termed " dug-outs." Town-lots were sold at fabu- lous prices. Every nation on the globe, nearly, was represented here. The principal pastimes were gambling, drinking villainous rot-gut whisky, and shooting. Shooting scrapes were an every- day occurrence. Stealing anything from any- body was the natural habit of the thieving roughs. Knock downs and robberies were daily and nightly amusements. But these things had to come to an end, and their perpetrators, some of them, to a rope's end. The more respectable portion of the citizens became weary of the dep- redations on property and life. Vigilance com- mittees were organized, and "Judge Lynch" held court, from which there were neither appeals nor stay of executions. Juries never disagreed, nor were there vexatious delays and motions for a new trial. Witnesses were unnecessary and de- murrers of no account. Nor would " the insanity dodge " avail. The victims were known and " spotted " beforehand, the judgments of the courts were unerring and generally righteous. No gallows were erected, because telegraph poles and the railroad bridge across Crow Creek were con- venient of access. When Cheyenne was only six months old, so frequent were the murders and robberies, and the city authorities so powerless, that a vigilance committee was organized. The first knowledge of its existence happened thus : Three men were arrested on the 10th day of January, 1868, charged with having stolen $900. They were put under bonds to appear before the court on the 14th of the same month. On the morning of the day after they were arrested, they were found on Eddy street, tied together, 66 walking abreast with a large piece of canvas attached to them, on which the following words were conspicuous: " $900 stole ; $500 returned; thieves F. St. Clair, W. Grier, E. D. Brownville. City authorities please not interfere until 10 o'clock a. TO. Next case goes up a tree. Beware of Vigi- lance Committee." Within one year after its organ- ization, the " vigilantes " had hung and shot twelve desperadoes and sent five to the peniten- tiary. Since that time Cheyenne has been ruled by the law-and-order party, though even these may seem rather lax to eastern people not accustomed to the manners and customs of the frontier. Yet the people enjoy " peace." On the 13th day of November, 1867, the track layers reached the city limits, and on the 14th the first passenger train arrived. The arrival of the track layers was greeted with music, a dis- play of bunting, while the inhabitants turned out en masse to meet them. On the 14th an en- thusiastic meeting of citizens was held to extend a public greeting to the railroad officials who had arrived on the first train, among whom were Sidney Dillon, Esq., now president of the com- pany, and General Casement of Ohio, the cham- pion track layer of the continent. The first city government was organized, by the election of officers, on the 10th of August, 1867. The first newspaper was issued on the 19th of September, called the Cheyenne Leader, and has maintained its existence ever since publishing daily and weekly editions. Other papers have since been started, but they were short-lived, until the publication of the Cheyenne Daily News, which is a spicy little daily. As the town is now able to support two papers, the Neivs (just merged into the Daily Sun,) will continue to flourish. Cheyenne is well laid out, with broad streets at right angles to the railroad, and has an abund- ant supply of pure water. Irrigating ditches run through the streets. A ditch was dug from Crow Creek to some natural " hollows " or reser- voirs north of the town, which form beautiful little lakes. From these the water for the streets is taken by ditches. As a result, trees and shrubbery will soon ornament the streets and yards of the city, which will greatly add to its attractiveness and beauty. There are a few local manufactories already in existence and more will follow, and on a larger scale. With the wool which is soon to be annually shipped from this place, we should think a woolen factory would be a great desid- eratum. Precious Stones. In the adjacent mount- ains, on the hills and bluffs near by, and in the valleys of the streams in this vicinity, a large num- ber of curious and precious stones, gems rich and rare, have been found. They are very plenty in their natural state, their chief value being in the cost of cutting by a lapidary and mounting by a jeweler. In the immediate neighborhood of Chey- enne the following are found: Moss-agates, in great profusion ; topaz, in colors ; garnet or mount- ain ruby; they are usually found in the little heaps of sand thrown up by ants ; opals variegated, rare as yet, and valuable ; petrifactions of wood and shells, which when cut, polished and mounted, are splendid ; amethysts, onyx, black and white, for cameos and jasper. All of these have been found in this vicinity, though some are rare. The most beautiful moss-agates are found about half- way to Fort Laramie, on Chugwater Creek. Messrs. Joslyn & Park, an old and reliable firm of manufacturing jewelers, in both Cheyenne and Salt Lake City, have made this business a special- ty, and possess the largest and finest collection of stones in the country. Some of them are exceed- ingly beautiful. Fine specimens of petrified palm-wood may be seen at their store. They are both beautiful and rare. The fact that petrified palm-wood and petrified bones of the rhinoceros have been found in this territory, shows that some six million years ago comparatively recent there was a tropical climate in this region of country, when the palm flourished in luxuriance, and the rhinoceros sported in the warm streams or cavorted around on their sunny banks. Trav- elers who are willing to omit their dinner can improve the half hour allowed by the railroad, by a hurried run over to this store, which is but a block away. Prospects. At present, the greatest cause of the growth and prosperity of Cheyenne is the dis- covery of gold in the Black Hills of Dakota. This cause will last until, if that country will warrant it, a railroad is built there. The discoveries of gold seem to be extensive and inexhaustive, and the building of a railroad from some point here or on the Union Pacific or Missouri River, will rapidly follow. The new branch of Union Pacific Railroad to Dewe, will soon be opened ; at present its prospects are flattering, and its busi- ness men are reaping a rich harvest from their investments. The opening of northern Wyoming to settlement, the development of the vast mineral resources of the territory, and the continued pros- perity of her stock interests, will give to the " Magic City of the Plains " the trade, growth and influence which her location demands. Health. Asa resort for health-seekers, Chey- enne has superior advantages. It is about a thou- sand feet higher than Denver, with an atmosphere not only rarefied but dry. It has good hotels and livery accommodations. Ponies are cheap, and in- valids can purchase them and ride over the hills and dales at pleasure. There is also an abundance of game in the vicinity antelope, rabbits, deer, etc. A bear weighing over 1,500 pounds, was killed near here in 1875. It is the largest one we ever saw. Its skin has been preserved, and the bear has been mounted in good shape. Fre- quent excursions can also be taken in the warm summer weather to Fort Laramie, Cheyenne Pass, and other places which will expand the lungs SCENES IN THE BLACK HILLS. 1. Golden Park. 2. Qenevieve Park. 3. Custer Park. 4. Limestone Peak. 6. Harney's Park. 68 and invigorate the body. The results of several years' observations at the United States Signal Station here, show that the temperature is more even, taking the years together, than in many places East or on the Pacific coast. The hottest days do not equal those which frequently occur in the East, and in the summer months the nights are deliciously cool, assuring the invalid good sleep under plenty of blankets. We predict a great rush of invalids and health-seekers to this place and vicinity, in the near future. Al- though Cheyenne is a good place to sleep, yet the people are wide-awake and " owly " nights. Rapidity of Business at Cheyenne. On the 22d of July, 1867, the first lots were offered for sale by the Union Pacific Railroad Company at Cheyenne 66 by 132 feet for $150. Thirty days after, these lots sold for $1,000 each, and in two to three months thereafter, the same lots were again resold at $2,000 to $2,500. On the 15th of July, 1837, there was but one house at Cheyenne. Six months thereafter, there were no less than three thousand. The government freight which was transported over the plains to Cheyenne, from November, 1867, to February, 1868, four months, amounted to 6,000 tons, and filled twelve large warehouses, and for a long time subsequently averaged 15,000,000 to 20,000,000 pounds annually. During the fall and winter, there were three forwarding companies whose business in trans- porting goods, exclusive of government supplies, averaged 5,000,000 pounds per month. Stores were erected with marvelous rapidity. One firm constructed an entire store, 25 by 55 feet, quite substantial, in just forty-eight hours ; three hun- dred firms were in operation that winter, doing mostly a wholesale business ; of this number, over seventy made sales of over $10,000 per month each, and with some firms sales reached over $30,000 par month. The first post-office was established October 30, 1867 ; salary $1.00 per month. In two months the United States mails had increased so enor- mously as to average 2,600 letters per day, and in two months more this was doubled, and salary increased to $2,000 per year. Though business declined as soon as, the terminus of the road was moved, yet it now has a solid business. The population in 1875 was about 4,000, and there was invested in new buildings, in the single year of 1875, no less than $430,000. The Black Hills Gold Discoveries. For several years the impression has obtained that there was gold in the Black Hills of Dakota, and every exploration under the auspices of the government has tended to encourage and strengthen this impression. In 1860, Colonel Bullock, now a resident of Cheyenne, was an Indian agent and trader where Fort Laramie now stands. He saw a squaw in his store, one day, with something in her mouth. He said, " Let me see that." She gave it to him, and it proved to be a nugget of gold, worth about three dollars. He said, " Give that to me." She told him she would, for some raisins and candy. These he gave her, and afterwards gave her coffee and sugar to its full value. He snowed the gold to his inter- preter, and requested him, if possible, to find out where it came from. The interpreter did his best, but the squaw would only say that it was picked up in the bed of a creek, and that the Indians would kill her if she told where it was. During his long experience as a trader with the Indians, Colonel Bullock frequently saw small nuggets of gold, but could never find out where the Indians obtained them, and the infer- ences he drew from all the information he could obtain were to the effect that the Bear Lodge country, nearly north of the Inyan Kara mount- ain, was the region where this gold came from. According to the most recent information on the subject, the eastern boundary line of Wyoming strikes the Black Hills nearly in the center, that about one-half are in Dakota and the other half in Wyoming. Harney's Peak and Dodge's Peak are in the former, while the Inyan Kara and Bear Lodge Mountains are in the latter territory. The question of the existence of gold there and other precious metals, can no longer be doubted. The official report of Professor Jenny sufficiently establishes this fact. It also establishes the fact that in a small portion of the country which he examined, it is found in paying quantities. It remains, therefore, for the hardy miners and sturdy pioneers to demonstrate still further whether it is there in large quantities. Thus far every thing has been against them, and they even now are upon forbidden ground, liable at any moment to be driven out of the Hills by United States troops. But there is an implied under- standing and belief now becoming quite preva- lent that they will be allowed to remain, that the government will not molest them again. Jf only this result can be obtained, it will be satis- factory to the miners. They do not fear the Indians ; they only ask, if the government will not protect them, that it will not interfere with their mining operations nor destroy their prop- erty. Nor will they attack the Indians, they are safe if they keep away and do not disturb them. If, however, they are attacked, self-de- fence will require vigorous measures for protec- tion. The law of the case, as we understand it, is simply this : that the reservations agreed upon by the treaty of 1868 are in Dakota territory ; that a part of the Black Hills only are in that territory, nor is there any evidence or indications that they ever occupied this part beyond the cut- ting of a few lodge-poles. The facts are that the Indians are in Nebraska instead of Dakota, and that they are really afraid of the Black Hills because of the terrific storms that visit them, when, 69 " from peak to peak, the rattling crags among, leaps the live thunder," and the pranks of livid lightning are fearful to behold. They have a superstitious reverence for these Hills, and be- lieve them to be the home of the Great Spirit. The treaty only gives them the right to hunt in Wyoming, as far west as the crests of the Big Horn Mountains, whenever there is sufficient game to warrant the chase. With the exception of this proviso, therefore, the whole territory of Wyoming is open to exploration, settlement and development. The next question is, Will the government protect the pioneers in their explora- tions ? or must they protect themselves in go- ing where they have an undoubt- ed right to go? The Black Hills are mainly confined to a re- gion of territory lying between the forks of the Cheyenne river. In addition to the gulch and placer diggings, already discov- ered, there have been a few dis- coveries of what appears to be rich quartz lodes of gold and veins of silver. This region is about one hundred miles long and eighty miles wide. French Creek, Spring Creek, Rapid Creek, Box-elder Creek, Elk Creek and others head in these Hills, and flow mainly in an eastern direction, emptying into the south fork of the Cheyenne. The north fork seems to hug the hills pretty closely with small creeks and streams, yet unexplored, heading in the mountains and flowing into it. The north fork heads in Pumpkin Butte, a mountain a little north-west of Fort Fetterman, on the North Platte river. West of the northern portion of the Black Hills, there are several ranges of moun- tains and several streams which flow north into the Yellowstone River. All accounts of this re- gion of country, as far west as the Big Horn Mountains, unite in the report of its rich min- AGNES PARK. BLACK HILLS. eral character, and we believe the richest min- eral discoveries ever known on this continent will be made here in the next few years. How to get to the Black Hills. Within the past year of 1876 and 1877, there have been opened three distinct routes to the Black Hills, and it is now easy of access. The principal routes are via the Union Pacific Railroad, and stage line from either Sidney or Cheyenne. A longer route is occasionally used by steamers up the Missouri River to Sioux City, Yankton and Port Pierre, and thence by wagon across the plains and " bad lands " of Dakota. This route is long and circuitous, with not as good wood, water or grazing, as the Southern route. From Cheyenne there is a good natural road, which runs t o Fort Laramie, a distance of 90 miles,over which the U. S. mails have been car- ried for many years. It passes through a coun- try with good ranches, at con- venient dis- tances apart. From Fort Lar- amie to Custer and Deadwoocl City, there is a good wagon road, which has recently been shortened 60 miles, so that the entire distances are as follows : Cheyenne to Fort Laramie 93 miles ; to Custer City, 260 miles ; Golden City, 295 miles; Elizabeth City, 347 miles ; Hill City, 275 miles Rapid City, 315 miles Deadwood, 348 miles ; Crook City, 360 miles. The Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage line now runs regularly, daily trips over the road with a superior outfit for transportation of all classes of passengers. Hitherto the Cheyenne route has been the principal one since it has been the de- pot of supplies. It is the only route used by the Government Supply trains, is in the proximity of four government military forts and stations, and along the entire route there is an ample supply of wood, water and grain. It is also the 70 line of the telegraph to the Black Hills, which connects Deadwood and Cheyenne. The time occupied in stage travel to the principal places of the Black Hills is from 48 to 60 hours. Sidney has also become a large outfitting point, and there is now invested nearly $ 100,000 capital in transportation, equipments for passen- gers and freight to the Black Hills mines. Stages leave Sidney every morning at 8 o'clock, and make the distance in following time : Red Cloud Agency in 20 hours ; Buffalo Gap (the point of intersection with stage for Custer, 30 miles West) in 30 hours, and reaches the en- tire distance to Deadwood in 48 to 60 hours. By the Sidney route distances are as follows : To Red Cloud Agency, 109 miles ; Buffalo Gap, 171 miles ; French Creek, 184 miles ; Bat- tle Creek, 196 miles ; Rapid River, 214 miles ; Spring Valley, 228 miles ; Crook City, 246 miles ; Deadwood, 285 miles. The advantage of dis- tance in favor of the Sidney route is nearly one- fourth less than by any other route. Result of the Opening of the BlacJc Hills. During the past season of 1876, the yield of the gold mines was nearly $2,000,000. Cheyenne bankers are said to have bought above 1900,000 worth of gold dust, and various amounts have been forwarded in other ways, besides what has been kept in the Hills. This result has been entirely from placer mining. One mining party known as the Wheeler party, has realized nearly $500,000 in one season. Extraordinary success attended their work ; $2,600 were cleared in only 42 hours' work, and in general, on Deadwood Creek, the average to the miners on each claim was $300 to $700 per day. Nearly all the yield of the Black Hills in 1876 was gleaned in the vicinity of Deadwood and Whitewood gulches. Quartz mining has been attempted. First assays were but $38 per ton, and the average of the ores thus far experimented upon, vary from $30 to $50 per ton. There is enough ore availa- able to fill fifty 100 stamp mills for 20 years. Miners with mortar and pestle have taken ore from some of these quartz lodes, and realized as high as $15 per day. Since the settlement of Deadwood, prices of living have gradually de- clined, until good day board now averages only from $7 to $10. Freight from Cheyenne and Sidney now costs but $3 to $4 per 100 Ibs. The width of the mineral belt is now definitely ascer- tained to be but 10 to 15 miles, but it stretches 100 miles long. The agricultural value of the Hills is beyond all words of expression. The valleys have been found to be surpassingly fer- tile, the rain-fall regular and constant, and were any one dissatisfied with mining, still there is room for thousands of farms and peaceful homes. A statement is made, apparently of unques- tioned accuracy, of an explorer on Spring Creek, who, with three others, and one day's sluicing, took out $38 coarse gold, the pieces varying from three cents to three dollars in value. One man prospecting on Iron Creek, sixty miles farther off, took out $23.67 from one pan of dirt. Mr. Allen, the recorder of mining claims, took from his claim four pounds of coarse gold in one month, and all reports agree in an average of seven to twenty-five cents per pan, which will turn out per day $7 to $50 to each man. As a proof of the existence of gold, it is but necessary to quote from the authority of Profes- sor Jenny's report of a visit in July, 1875, whereof writing to the Department of the Inte- rior at Washington, he announces the discovery of gold in paying quantities near Harney's Peak ; deposits very rich, with plenty of water in the streams : " The gold is found in quartz ledges of enormous dimensions. Whether the mines be valuable or not, there is a vastness of future wealth in the grass lands, farms and timber. The soil is deep and fertile; the rain-fall more abundant than any other point west of the Alle- ghanies." In the summer of 1875, an expedition headed by General Custer visited this region, wherein he describes finding an abundance of wild fruits, strawberries, raspberries, gooseber- ries in wonderful profusion ; and frequently the wild berry was larger and more delicious flavor than the domestic species in the Eastern states. A miner writing from personal view thus speaks of the richness of the section thus far dis- covered : " I found several miners working their claims, as yet in a crude and primitive manner. Some of them working with a Chinese rocker cleaned up from five to seven pennyweights of gold, the result of but three hours' work. Twen- ty-five miles north-west of Spring Creek, I found the largest vein of gold quartz I have ever seen, being from 300 to 600 feet in width, and tracea- ble for over 40 miles in length. I also found a vein of white crystallized quartz about four feet in width, in which gold was plainly visible. I obtained some specimens, fabulously rich ; one piece was sent to the Omaha smelting works which averaged $42,000 to the ton. At Rapid Creek the prospects are still better than in Spring Gulch. Castle Creek is the richest found in the Black Hills. One claim has been worked to the bed-rock, in the channel, which paid $6.00 of gold to one cubic foot of gravel." The best mines have proved by the latest dis- coveries to be on the west side of the Hills, and aside from the value of the precious metal, the superb salubrity of the climate, arid the natural richness of the soil, make it extraordinarily at- tractive. An explorer describes the country as " the richest ever seen or heard of between the Missouri River and Central Oregon. Excellent timber in the greatest abundance ; as fine pas- turage as I ever saw; rich black loam soil; splendid water ; showers every few days ; no disagreeable winds ; a delicious, bracing atmos- phere to either work or rest in ; a splendid diver- 71 sity of hill and valley ; prairie and timber forest ; a landscape of which the eye never tires." During one week, 800 miners passed through Hill City, en route for the mines of Whitewood and Deadwood. In most of the creeks the bed- rock lies 15 to 20 and 40 feet below the surface. On the 1st of March there were estimated to be over 10,000 people in the Black Hills, and rap- idly accumulating at the rate of 1,000 per week, which would be still greatly augmented when the summer weather opens. A Terrible Thunder- Storm. The Black Hills of Dakota are the fear of Indians, because of the frequent thunder-storms. Col. R. I. Dodge, United States Commander of Black Hills Expedition, 1874, states that in this region " thunder-storms are quite frequent, terrific in force and power, and fearful in the vividness, the nearness of the lightning. Scarcely a day in summer that there is not a thunder-storm in some part of the hills. " One afternoon, from the top of one of the high mountains, near Harney's Peak, I saw five separate and distinct storms, occurring at the a same instant in different parts of the hills. One 3 of these struck our party with fatal results. j< "A heavy rain-storm coming on, two soldiers * and the boy took refuge under a tall pine. All H three were seated on a rock about six feet from H the trunk of the tree, and each held in his hand o the' reins of his horse's bridle. At the flash, H the three persons and horses were thrown to the a ground, one of the soldiers being pitched quite a ^distance, alighting on his head. The surgeon | was promptly on hand. Each person had been Z struck on the cheek bone, just under the eye. The fluid passed down the person of each, going out at the ball of the foot, boring a hole in the shoe sole as clean and round as if made by a bullet, and raising a large blood blister on the bottom of the foot. Neither had any other mark whatever. Skipping from the men to the horses, the flash prostrated all, striking each just over the eye. Two soon recovered their feet, and the third was killed. " During this storm, which lasted scarce half an hour, more than twenty trees were struck by lightning within a radius of a few hundred yards. " At another time, I witnessed another curious and unaccountable phenomenon. I was on a high mountain of the Harney Group. Within four miles of me, in different directions, were three thunder-storms, their clouds being probably 500 or 1,000 feet below me. Though I could see the vivid and incessant flashes of lightning, not a sound of the thunder could be heard. Through- out the Hills the number of the trees which bear the mark of the thunder-bolt is very remark- able, and the strongest proof of the violence and frequent recurrence of these storms. The elec- tric current acts in the most eccentric way. In some cases it will have struck the very top of a 72 lofty pine, and passed down, cutting a straight and narrow groove in the bark, without any ap- parent ill effect on the tree, which remains green and nourishing ; at other times the tree will be riven into a thousand pieces, as if with the blows of a giant axe, and the fragments scattered a hundred feet around." Rainbows. "The rainbow of the Black Hills is a marvel of perfection and beauty. Two or three times wider than the rainbow of the States, it forms a complete and perfect arch, both ends being, sometimes, visible to the beholder, and one so near and distinct that there would be little difficulty in locating the traditional ' pot of gold.' Very frequently the rainbow is doubled, and several times I saw three distinct arches, the third and higher being, however, a comparatively faint reflex of the brilliant colors of the lower." 867 feet at base, 297 feet at top. It rises 1,127 feet above its base, and 5,100 feet above tide- water. Its summit is inaccessible to anything without wings. The sides are fluted and scored by the action of the elements, and immense blocks of granite, split off from the column by frost, are piled in huge, irregular mounds about its base. The Indians call this shaft " The Bad God's Tower." Game. The Hills are full of deer, elk, bears, wolves, cougars, grouse, and ducks. The streams have an abundance of fish, although of but few sorts. After careful investigation General Dodge closes with this expression of careful judgment : Opinion of General Dodge. " 1 but ex- press my fair and candid opinion when I pro- nounce the Black Hills, in many respects, the DEVIL'S TOWER BLACK HILLS. M mint ains. Harney's Peak is 7,440 feet above tide-water, the other peaks are Crook's Monument, Dodge's Peak, Terry's Peak, Warren's Peak, Ouster's Peak, Crow Peak, Bare Peak, Devil's Tower, 7,600 feet elevation. 7,300 feet elevation. 7,200 feet elevation. 6,900 feet elevation. 6,750 feet elevation. 6,200 feet elevation. 5,200 feet elevation. 5,100 feet elevation. The Devil's Tower is one of the most remark- able peaks of the world. General Dodge de- scribes it thus : " An immense obelisk of granite, finest country I have ever seen. The beauty and variety of the scenery, the excellence of the soil, the magnificence of the climate, the abundance of timber and building stone make it a most de- sirable residence for men who want good homes. " As a grazing country it can not be surpassed, and small stock farms of fine cattle and sheep can not fail of success. " Gold there is every-where in the granite gold enough to make many fortunes, and tempt to the loss of many more. 73 " Here is a country destined, in a few years, to be an important and wealthy portion of the great American Republic." There is little doubt that in a few years this section, from the Black Hills of Dakota to and across the Big Horn region, and all northern Wyoming, will be a rich field of industry, as have been Colorado and Utah. The illustrations we give are from photographs taken by General Ouster in his famous Black Hills Exploring Expedition of 1875, and represent this country to be of great scenic beauty. COLORADO. Pleasure Resorts. Colorado is an empire of itself in enterprise, scenic beauty and abund- ance of pleasure resorts. In 1870, few or none of these were known, and towns were small in number and population. Since that time, it has become a center of great railroad activity, has grown in wonderful favor as an attractive region for summer travel ; and as a country for health- giving and life-giving strength, it has drawn thither thousands who have made it their perma- nent home. THE COLORADO CENTRAL RAIL- ROAD. Tourists to Colorado will find a journey over this new Railroad Line just opened, of special interest and attractiveness. Through Sleeping Cars from Omaha run direct over this line to Denver, simply changing trains at Cheyenne, and all trains make connections from Denver for Union Pacific Trains East. The route for the first 50 or more miles South passes at the base of the Rocky Mountains, in grand view of their sublime snow-capped summits. The equal of this ride is not found in any Railroad in the Far West. At Fort Collins the railroad crosses the famous Cache la Poudre Valley, one of the finest and most lovely regions of agricultural wealth in the State. Wheat and all kinds of grain are here cultivated in large farms, and yield luxuriant crops. Est.es ParJc is a place of superb scenic at- traction, which will afford a most pleasurable resort for the overland Tourist to visit. It is reached by stage from Longmont, distance 36 miles, contains a very superior mountain hotel, and a wide expanse of park scenery, with mag- nificent views of Long's Peak, and the snowy caps of the neighboring peaks ; also there is abundance of trout fishing. For a health resort to any one seeking rest and recuperation, a sojourn here will be found particularly enjoyable. Lonymont is in the midst of a thriving agri- cultural country, with large and rich farms the country is nearly level yet the supply of water is abundant for irrigating purposes, and the farming advantages of the country are good. Some of the little farms are gems in their neat- ness. The railroad here is at its greatest dis- tance from the range ; hence they seem smaller, and lower in elevation, with less snow, though here and there is an opening in the range which reveals the glorious form of some tall snow cov- ered Monarch. The population is about 400. Boulder is most prettily located at the en- trance to the famous Boulder Canon, and im- mediately in a little cove at the base of the mountains. The valley is the most fertile in the State, the water supply is unsurpassed, the cli- mate is the warmest of any country, and the crops are much earlier than any place for 100 miles from Denver. Tourists will find numer- ous mines near here worth visiting, also most interesting rides up Boulder Canon, Bear Creek Canon, and a trip to Caribon Silver mines. The railroad, as it passes Southward and rises out of the valley to the upland, reveals, as you cast a glance back, a wondrously beautiful view of landscape charms. The mountain view is sub- lime ; the near peaks beinj? dark, while the dis- tant ones, well covered with snow, afford start- ling contrast and are beautiful in the extreme. From Boulder to Golden tlunction, and thence to Denver, the railroad crosses alternately high upland, then descends into and crosses the valley of many streams flowing from the mountain, which irrigate a region of wonderful agricultural fertility. Upon these uplands, there is a mag- nificent and exhilarating breeze, constantly blow- ing from the mountains. Dark Canons appear and disappear as the Tourist travels on. The afternoon sun often reveals glorious displays of sunset colors on the clouds, thunder storms with lightning often give wild and thrilling effects. And at each descent from the upland into each little valley, the view is one of beauty and pleas- ure. The railroad as it turns East from Colorado Junction, reveals at the right, the busy town of Golden ; a mile distant, over it, towers a peak of 1,000 feet high and down the little valley of Clear Creek, the route passes till your terminus at Denver. This route of reaching Denver from the East must be specially advantageous to Tourists. The Denver Pacific Railroad also runs direct from Cheyenne, southward, to Denver, and trains connect with the mid-day trains of the Union Pacific Railroad. The distance, 106 miles, is mainly over a vast level plain, covered only with the short gray buffalo grass, but parallel with the main range of the Rocky Mountains, and 20 to 30 miles from their east- ern base. Greeley, Named in honor of Horace Greeley, and settled in May, 1870. The colony passess about 100,000 acres of fine alluvial soil in the Valley of the Cache La Poudre River. Irrigat- 74 WILLIAMS' CANON, COLORADO SPRINGS. BY THOMAS MORAN. 75 ing ditches have been constructed, and there is an abundance of water for all agricultural pur- poses. The town for several years has increased with steady rapidity, and the population is slight- ly over 2,000. At this place are located some of the finest grist-mills of the entire West. The place has achieved considerable reputation as a temperance town. Denver is the capital of the State. This has become a large railroad point. From it di- verge the Kansas Pacific, 636 miles eastward to Kansas City, the Denver and Rio Grande Rail- road, Narrow Gauge, southward, to Canon City, Pueblo and Trinidad, and Port Garland; also the various branches of the Colorado Central to Georgetown, Idaho Springs, Central City, and the mines of the mountains. Its population exceeds 20,000, and its location is most advantageous for easy trade and com- munication with all the principal points of the Territory. Located on an open plain, about thirteen miles from the Rocky Mountains ; there is a grand view of the entire range from Long's Peak on the north to Pike's Peak on the south. While eastward, northward and southward stretches the vast upland plains which is so im- pressive with its boundless extent. The city is full of thrift, of life ; and trade is always splendid. The buildings which grace the principal streets are made principally of brick, and in general ap- pearance, are superior to those of any city west of the Missouri River. Daily, weekly and monthly newspapers thrive. Here is a branch of the United States Mint, gas-works, water-works, horse-railroads, and a multitude of hotels. The best of which are the Grand Central, Inter-Ocean, American, Sargent, Broadwell and Villa Park. From this point the traveler can radiate in all directions in search of pleasure resorts. Notes to Tourists. The uniform railroad fare in the Territory averages ten cents per mile. Stage routes run all through the mountains, fare from ten to twenty cents per mile. The uniform rate of board is four dollars per day, and almost every-where can be found excellent living; the nicest of beef steak, bread and biscuit. In many of the mountain resorts plenty of good fishing can be found, and delicate trout are common viands of the hotel tables. The best season of the year for a visit to Colorado is in July and August. As then the snow has nearly disappeared from the mountains, and all the beautiful parks and valleys are easily approachable. Those who wish to include both Colorado and California in a pleasure trip will do well to visit California first, during April May and June, and then on return spend July and August leisurely in the cozy little home resorts of Colorado. Although it must be confessed that the scenery of the Colorado mouu,t- ains is far the most impressive and most beauti- ful when first seen, before reaching the greater magnificence of the Yosemite and Sierras. Living in Colorado is more nearly like New Eng- land customs than in California, and to those who seek Western travel, for health, the climate of Colorado is much more favorable than that of California. The Denver and Rio Grande Rail- road will carry the traveler southward from Denver, along the base of the Rocky Mountains, to some of the most noted pleasure resorts of the territory. This little narrow gauge is a wonder of itself, representing nearly $1,000,000 of capi- tal, and operating over 200 miles of road, it has developed a traffic exceeding $500,000 per year, where six years ago the stage route did not real- ize $1,000 per month, and the prospects for the future for its trade with the miners of the San Juan Country, Trinidad, Sante Fe, are most en- couraging, as the new gold discoveries become better developed. Seventy-six miles south of Denver, on this line, are clustered three little places of resort, practically one in interest, Colo- rado Springs, Colorado City, and Manitou Springs. The former is the rail- road station, a lively town, which in five years has risen from the prairie to a population of 3,000. Six miles distant from the Springs at Manitou, are collected several elegant hotels, and in the vicinity are numerous soda springs iron springs and medicinal baths of great virtue. The location of this resort, with its wonderful col- lection of objects of natural interest and scenery, have earned for it the title of " Saratoga of the Far West." Travelers find here beautiful scenery in the Ute Pass Garden of the Gods Glen Eyrie, numerous beautiful canons, Queen Canon Cheyenne Canon, grand and impressive, and towering over all is the lofty summit of Pike's Peak, 14,300 feet high, up which ascends a trail to the government signal station, the highest in the United States. Travelers, who frequently ascend this peak are rewarded, when on a clear day, with a glimpse of grand and glorious views of the peaks and mountains, southward and westward. In this vicinity is located a pretty little canon about 15 miles in length, with walls of rock ris- ing to uniform height of 600 and 800 feet above a very narrow foot pass below. This canon was discovered and named, in 1870, by a party of editors, Williams' Canon, in honor of H. T. Wil- liams, their commander. This was the first visit of an Eastern pai'ty, of any notoriety, at the Springs. No railroad was then built, and not a house was to be seen, nor even a rancheman's cabin. The scenery of this canon, (see illustration), is at various points wild in the extreme, and the colossal walls of rocks are of such shape and for- mation that they give to the observer an excellent general idea of the characteristic canon scenery of the mountains. The canon has never been fully explored, and at present is the scene of fifty or more claims of gold discoveries. 77 Pleasure travelers are uniformly glad that they have made a visit to these points, as they excel in interest any other points in the Western trip. Southward from Colorado Springs, the next most noted resort is Canon City and the Grand Canon of the Arkansas. This is a scene of remarkable beauty and magnificence ; at one point can be seen the river winding its way for ten miles, at the base of huge perpendic- ular rocks which rise fully 1000 and 2000 feet above the current. This is the grandest canon view in Colorado. Westward from Colorado Springs is the South Park, a noted route for travelers who enjoy camping out, and a fine drive through the mountains. Garden of the Gods. Tlie Beautiful Gate. This is also a famous pleasure resort at Manitou, near Colorado Springs. Midway be- tween the Station and Springs is located one of the most beautiful and curious little parks, and upheaval of rocks that Western scenery can dis- play. Descending from parallel ridges into a little park, the traveler sees iu front of him a beautiful gate of two enormous rocks, rising in massive proportion to the height of 350 feet, with a natural gateway between of 200 feet in width, with a small rock in the center. Standing a little eastward, the observer gets the view illustrated in our engraving. At the right is another parallel ridge of rocks, pure white, which contrasts finely with the dark red of the rocks of the gate. Through the gate, in the long distance is seen the summit of Pike's Peak, eighteen miles away. Around these rocks is a little grassy park of fifty or more acres, in which according to the mytholog- ical stories of the people, the " gods " found such lovely times in play that they christened it a gar- den. These two parallel ridges of white and red rocks extend for many miles at the foot of the mountains, and form other curious formations at Glen Eyrie, Monument Park and Pleasant Park, although much less in size and impressiveness. The locality is the most famous in all Trans- continental travel. The Dome of the Continent Gray's Peak. Westward from Denver, 65 miles, and 14 from Georgetown, Colorado, rises the grandest and most beautiful of the mountains of Colorado. The way thither is one of easy approach, through valley and mountain roads of gradual ascent, past Idaho Springs, one of the most charming of summer resorts, and past all the mines of Golden, Empire, Georgetown, and the silver mines of the Palisades. Near to the summit are two very suc- cessful mines, Baker and Stevens, which are dug out of the perpendicular face of a rock fully 200 feet in height. Rising above all the ranges of the Colorado Mountains of north Colorado, Gray's Peaks are the grand Lookout Points, from which to view to advantage all the vast mountain range. In a clear day the observer can embrace in his range of vision a distance of 100 miles, in each direction, northward, southward and westward, and even eastward to over the plains east of Denver. From this point are plainly discernible Pike's Peak, 80 miles away, Mount Lincoln, 50 miles ; Mount of the Holy Cross, 60 miles ; Long's Peak, 50 miles ; the City of Denver, 65 miles, and even the summit of the Spanish Peaks, 150 miles southward, and the higher ranges of the Uintah Mountains, 150 miles westward. The total range of the vision being not less than 200 to 250 miles. Beneath them at the foot, lie the beautiful rivers and lakes of Middle Park ; southward the vast extended plains of South Park, and everywhere near at hand multitudes of little grassy parks, like valleys dotted with the groves of spruce and pine, as if planted for a grand pleasure ground. The height of the Peak is 14,351 feet, and is the easiest of access of all the mountains of Colo- rado. Travelers and pleasure tourists who desire one grand sight, never to be regretted, must not fail to include this in their Western visit for the sublimity and grand exaltation as from so lofty a height one views a sea of huge mountains, is a thing always to live in one's memory. There is a fine road to within three miles of the summit, through charming verdure-clad canons and val- leys and the rest of the way can be made over a fine trail by horseback, even to the summit. Westward from Denver are Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Gray's Peak, Middle Park, Clear Creek, and Boulder Canons, with the mining at- tractions of Central City, Georgetown, Empire, Caribou, and Black Hawk, where the observer can witness sights of extraordinary beauty. We can not possibly describe the attractions of these resorts. They are at once terrible, overpower- ing, lonely, and full of indescribable majesty. Amid them all the tourist travels daily, imbib- ing the life-giving, beautiful, fresh air full of its oxygen to quicken and stimulate the system ; the eye drinks in the wealth of scenery, and loves to note the beauties of the wonderful glow- ing sunlight, and the occasional cloud-storms, and wild display of power and glory. We know of no country better worth the title of the " Switzerland of America " than Colorado, with its beautiful mountain parks, valleys, and springs. Go and see them all. The tour will be worthy of remembrance for a life-time. The editor of this Guide expects soon to issue The Colorado Tourist, devoted more especially to the attractions of Colorado, as the limits of this Guide can not begin to possibly describe a hun- dredth part of the objects of interest within that little region a world of pleasure travel by itself. Of Life in Colorado, a prominent writer has said : " At Denver I found, as I thought, the grade of civilization actually higher than in most Western cities. In elegance of building, in fin- ish, in furniture, in dress and equipages, that city is not behind any this side of the Atlantic border. The total absence of squalidity and vis- 78 MOUNTAIN OF THE HOLY CROSS, COLORADO. 79 ible poverty, and I may also say of coarseness and rowdyism, impressed me on my visit very strongly, as did the earnestness, activity and in- tensity of life which is everywhere so apparent." P. T. Barnum once said of Colorado, in a lec- ture : " Why, Coloradoans are the most disap- pointed people I ever saw. Two-thirds of them came here to die, and they can't do it. This wonderful air brings them back from the verge of the tomb, and they are naturally exceedingly disappointed." The average temperature is about 60 the year round the air is bracing, winter mild, and days almost always full of clear skies and bright warm sunshine. The purity and dryness of the atmos- phere are proverbial. Mountain of the Holy Cross. The name of this remarkable mountain is renowned to the ends of the earth, and is the only one with this name in the world. It is the principal mountain of the Sawatch Range, just west of the Middle Park of Colorado, and exceedingly difficult of access. The Hayden party were several days in merely finding an accessible way of travel to reach its base. The characteristic features which give it its name is the vertical face, nearly 3,000 feet in depth, with a cross at the upper portion, the entire fissures being filled with snow. The cross is of such remarkable size and distinct con- trast with the dark granite rock, that it can be seen nearly eighty miles away, and easily dis- tinguished from all other mountain peaks. The snow seems to have been caught in the fissure, which is formed of a succession of steps, and here, becoming well lodged, it remains all the year. Late in the summer the cross is very much dimin- ished in size by the melting of the snow. A beau- tiful green lake lies at the base of the peak, almost up to the timber line, which forms a reservoir for the waters from the melting snows of the high peaks. From this flows a stream with many charming cascades. The height of the mountain is 14,176 feet above tide-water. The perpendicu- lar arm of the cross is 1,500 feet in length, and fully 50 feet in breadth, the snow lying in the crevice from 50 to 100 feet in depth. The hori- zontal arm varies in length with the seasons, but averages 700 feet. The mountain was ascended by the Hayden party only with the greatest diffi- culty, after 5,000 feet of climbing fifty pounds of instruments on each back, and obliged to pass thirty hours on the summit, with no snelter, pro- tection, fuel or provisions, except one pocket lunch. Military Posts. At Cheyenne is Camp Carlin, which is prin- cipally a depot for quartermasters' supplies. Three miles north on Crow Creek is Fort D. A. Russell, named in honor of the gallant com- mander of the first division of the sixth army corps, who fell at the battle of Winchester while leading his men to victory. It is a fifteen-com- pany post ; its grounds are well laid out, with fair buildings for officers and men. The creek runs on two sides of the enclosure and " a spur " from the railroad leads to it. This fort was established by General Augur, about the first of August, 1867. The reservation on which it is located contains 4,512 acres. It is a distribu- ting point for both troops and supplies. In the winter quite a large number of troops, principally cavalry, are kept here ; but in summer they are at out-stations on the frontier. Fort Laratnie. This fort is on the North Platte River, ninety-two miles from Cheyenne. It was established in August, 1869, by Major W. F. Sanderson. It was formerly a trading-post and a great resort for the northern Indians. The trappers and hunters among them and among the whites used to visit this place to trade their furs for supplies. The fort derives its name from Laramie River, which unites with the North Platte near this point. The government has a reservation here of fifty-four square miles. The old overland road to Oregon passes this place, and it is also on the direct road to Montana, the Big Horn and Powder River regions. It is probably the most important post on our frontier at present. A semi-weekly stage line connects it with Cheyenne, which will soon be made daily. In 1875, thieving bands of Sioux found their way in west and also south of this fort and killed one or two herders and stole a few horses. If trouble with the Sioux should come in conse- quence of the occupation of the Black Hills by miners, the location of this fort is very conven- ient for the distribution of forces for either offen- sive or defensive operations. Fort Fettennan Is located on the south side of the North Platte River, about eighty miles from Fort Laramie. It is named in honor of Lieutenant-Colonel W. J. Fettennan, who was killed by the Indians at the Fort Phil Kearny massacre, in December, 1866. It was established in July, 1867, by Major Dey, of the United States Army, and has a reservation of sixty sections of land adjoining. It is at present a base of supplies for troops in that vicinity, and is an important link in the chain of forts that should be re-established in the Powder and Tongue River countries. Two or three military posts between this fort and Atlantic City, in the great south pass at the base of the Wind River Mountains, would prevent the annual horse- stealing raids of the Indians on the Laramie plains. Old Fort Casper Is one of the forts that should be re-established. It is about sixty miles west of Fort Fetterman, on the North Platte River, at the old overland stage crossing, and was aban- doned in 1867. At that time there was a bridge across the river there, which cost $65,000, and which was soon after burned by the Indians. Fort Reno. Established by General P. Edward Connor, on Powder River, about ninety miles north-west of Fort Fetternian, during the war, and Fort Phil Kearney; established by Col- onel Carrington, at the forks of the Big and Little Piney Creeks, in 1866, have both been abandoned, and should both be re-established. Fort C. F. Smith was on the old Montana road, near the base of the Big Horn Mountains in Montana, some ninety miles from Fort Phil Kearney; established in 1866 and abandoned at the same time the other posts were given up. The region of country in which these forts were established is very fine for grazing, buffaloes living there the entire year, with an abundance of other gams. It is a famous hunting region for the Indians ; but since the government has inaugurated the policy of feeding them, they have become too lazy to hunt. Nothing but a horse- stealing raid can rouse the ambition of an ordi- nary Indian. foivder River Country. The Powder River, so named from the dark powder-colored sand in its bed, rises in the Big Horn Mountains, north and north-west of Old Fort Casper, and runs in a general north-easterly direction till it empties into the Yellowstone River. It drains an immense area of country, flows through a large region of fine grazing lands, and has in the mount- ains and hills on either side, untold treasures of rich metals and precious gems. It has hitherto been forbidden ground to white men, but those who have passed through it give glowing descrip- tions of its luxuriant fertility, its grand scenery and its mineral wealth. The demand for gold must soon cause it to be opened, and if it should not prove as rich in minerals as has been predicted, it will nevertheless be one of the finest grazing- regions in the country, producing vast herds of cattle, sheep and horses, which will add to the material wealth of the country. There are also heavy bodies of timber on the hills and mount- ains which border this river, and which will soon be needed to build the homes of the people who are to inhabit this mountain region of the Conti- nent. Its wonders are just beginning to be told. They have yet to become known. When fully realized, the overcrowded population of the East . miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 7,044 feet It is a telegraph station with the usual side track and section- houses. The station is named from the little lake near by, which can best be seen from the cars at the water tank, beyond the station. It isn't much of a *ake, nor can much of it be seen from the car windows. The water is said to look very green in the summer, and to differ but little in appearance from the green grass which surrounds it. The lake itself is about half a mile wide, and a mile and a half long, and about two miles from the track, though it does not seem half that distance. It is fed by Cooper and Dutton Creeks, but has no visible outlet. Lookout, 607.6 miles from Omaha, and about thirty-five nines Irom Laramie ; elevation, 7,16fc) feet. The road left what may be called the Laramie bottom at the last station, and now winds through a rolling country, which soon be- comes rough and broken, with the sage brush constantly increasing. Notice the chariges in the elevation as you pass alonor. Miser, 615.9 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,810 feet. Near here coal has been found. It is in the vicinity of Rock Creek, which is said to be the eastern rim of the coal fields discovered on this elevated plateau, in the mid- dle of the Continent. From the last station to this, and beyond, you have fine and con- stantly changing views from the moving train, of Laramie Peak, away off to the right, and of Elk Mountain to the left. Sage brush is the only natural production of the soil in this region, and is said to be eaten by antelope and elk in the absence of grass or anything better. It is also said that sheep will feed upon it, and that wherever antelope live and flourish, sheep will do likewise. Hock Creek, so-called from a creek of the same name, which the road here crosses ; 624.6 miles from Omaha; elevation, 6.690 feet. This is a regular eating station, instead of Laramie. The dining-room is beautifully decorated with flowers, vines and horns of game, a pretty Bay window with blooming flowers and walls covered with vines, and the display of hanging baskets, making the meal one of the most agree- able on the road. Hotel is kept by Thayer and Hughes. The government is surveying a new road to Fort Fetterman, to start from Rock Creek, in- stead of Medicine Bow. Rock Creek rises in the north-eastern peaks of the Medicine Bow Range, and runs in that direction to this station, near which it turns to- ward the west and unites with Medicine Bow River, near Medicine Bow Station. Wilcox. A side track for the passing of trains, 632.3 miles from Omaha, and 7,033 feet above the sea. The next station is Como, named after Lake Como, which the 91 road here passes. One peculiarity of this lake is that it is near Ilock Creek separated from it by a ridge of hills estimated at 200 feet high, with no visible outlet. The station is 640.2 miles from Omaha, and 6,680 feet above the sea. The lake has been estimated to be 200 feet above the surface of Rock Creek, from which it is separated as above stated. It is fed by warm springs, which also supply the water tank of the company at the station. In a cold day the steam from these springs can be seen at some distance. It is also a great resort for ducks, and sportsmen can obtain fine shooting here in the proper season. If lizards are fish with legs, then we have fish with legs abounding in this lake and vicinity. These animals are from 6 to 18 inches in length, with a head a good deal like that of a frog, and tufts or tassels where the gills would be on a fish. They have four legs and crawl around to a certain extent on the land. There are two kinds of these lizards, one differ- ing from the other in size and color more than in shape, and either kind are devoured by the ducks when they can be caught. The lake is about one mile wide in the widest place, and two and a half miles long. Valley of the Chngivater. The Chug- water Valley is about 100 miles long. It has been for many years a favorite locality for winter- ing stock, not only on account of the excellence of the grass and water, but also from the fact that the climate is mild throughout the winter. Cat- tle and horses thrive well all winter without hay or shelter. The broad valley is protected from strong cold winds by high walls or bluffs. The soil everywhere is fertile, and wherever the sur- face can be irrigated, good crops of all kinds of cereals and hardy vegetables can be raised with- out difficulty. In this valley and near the source of the Chugwater, are thousands of tons of iron ore, indicating deposits of vast extent and rich- ness, which can be made easily accessible when- ever desirable to construct a railroad to Mon- tana. Medicine Bow is 647.3 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,550 feet. The river, from which the station is named, was crossed a short distance before we reached the station. It rises directly south, in the Medicine Bow Mountains, and runs nearly north to the place where it is crossed by the railroad, after which it turns toward the west and unites with the North Platte, below Fort Steele. There is a roundhouse of five stalls, in which one or moi-e engines are kept, to assist trains up and down the steep grades between here and Carbon. It is also a point from which a large quantity of military supplies for Fort Fetterman and other posts are distributed. The government has a freight depot here. There are one or two stores, with the inevitable saloon and several dwellings, in the vicinity. There is a good wagon road from this place to Fort Fetterman, distance ninety miles, and it is by far the nearest route to the gold fields in the Black Hills of Dakota, for passengers and miners from the West. The Indians were disinclined to leave this region and even now hardly know how to give it up. In the summer of 1875, they came here and stole a herd of between three and four hundred horses that were grazing on Rock Creek. Some of these horses have been seen and recog- nized at the agencies of Red Cloud and Spotted Tail ; and when demand was made for them, the owners were quietly told by the Indian agents to make out their claims and present them to the proper authorities to be paid. But the cases of their payment are like angels' visits, few and far between. Some of the horses stolen belonged to Judge Kelly, member of Congress, from Pennsyl- vania. Medicine Bow is in the midst of a rough, broken country, over which millions of antelope and jack rabbits roam at pleasure. When the road was built here immense quantities of ties and wood were cut in the mountains south, and delivered at this place. Curiosities of Indian JAfe find Char- acter. The entire country, from North Platte over as far as the western border of Laramie Plains, has been for years the roving ground of the Indians, of whom we could tell many inter- esting facts respecting their life and the curious interviews the overland scouts, trappers, etc., have had with them. To a man, every scout will unite in denunciation of their treachery. Jim Baker, an old Rocky Mountain trapper, once told, in his characteristic manner the following, to General Marcy : " They are the most onsartainest varmints in all creation, and I reckon thar not mor'n half human ; for you never seed a human, arter you'd fed and treated him to the best fixins in your lodge, just turn round and steal all your horses, or anything he could lay his hand on. " No, not adzackly ! he would feel kinder grate- ful, and ask you to spread a blanket in his lodge if ever you passed that way. But the Indian, he don't care shucks for you, and is ready to do you a heap of mischief as soon as he quits your feed. No, Cap'," he continued, " it's not the right way to give 'um presents to buy peace ; but ef I was governor of these yeer United States, I'll tell you what I'd do. I'd invite 'um all to a big feast, and make believe I wanted to have a big talk, and as soon as I got 'um all together, I'd Eitch in and scalp half of 'um, and then t'other alf would be mighty glad to make a peace that would stick. That's the way I'd make a treaty with the dog-ond, red-bellied varmints ; and, as sure as you're born, Cap., that's the only way. "It ain' no use to talk about honor with them, Cap. ; they hain't got no such thing in 'um ; and they won't show fair fight, any way you can fix 92 it. Don't they kill and scalp a white man, when'ar they get the better on him ? The mean varmints, they'll never behave themselves until you give 'um a clean out and out licking. They can't oriderstand white folks' ways, and they won't learn, 'um, and ef you treat 'um decently, they think you're at'eard. You may depend on't, Cap., the only way to treat Indians, is to thrash them well at first, then the balance will sorter take to you and behave themselves." Indian observations on the character of the American and English people, are often pretty good. An Indian once describing to an English- man the characteristics of the different people he knew, said as follows, most naively : " King George man, ( English ) very good ; Boston man, (American) good ; John Chinaman, not good ; but the black man, he no better than a dor/." They are particularly curious about negroes, as they do not feel certain whether the black goes all through. Some years ago, a party of negroes escaping from Texas, were captured by some of the Comanches, who scraped their skin to settle this question. At the time of the presidency of Lincoln, an Indian, while conversing with an English mis- sionary, asked him. who was the chief of the English. He was told. " Ah ! Queen Victoly," for they can't pronounce it. " Is she a woman ? " " Yes." " Who is the chief of the Boston men, (American) ? " " Mr. Lincoln." " Ah ! I thought so ; but another Indian once told me that it was Mr. Washington. Are Mr. Lincoln and the English woman-chief good friends ? " " Yes, excellent friends." He thought for a moment, and, finally, said eagerly : " Then if they are so good friends, why does not Mr. Lincoln take Queen Victoly for his squaw ? " The Indians are very fond of card-playing, and, perhaps in no other way can their natural treachery be so well illustrated, and desire to take advantage of others by cheating. An Indian once, while at a wayside village, near the mines, and withal a natural born swin- dler, explained to his white hearers how he could manage to cheat while dealing the cards. While playing in the open air, in some valley, near some rocks, with a young Indian, while dealing the cards, he would shout out as if he saw some lovely forest maid passing near or ascending the rock or sides of the hill : " Aah, nanich skok tenans klatchmann (Hallo ! look at that young woman !) " While the Indian looked around, " old Buffalo " immediately took the opportunity of dealing double to himself, or of selecting an ace or two before his opponent turned around. A semi-civilized Indian, named Black Beaver, once visited General Marcy at St. Louis, and on his return back to his native camp, he prided himself not a little on his knowledge of cities and men, white and civilized. Camping one night with a Comanche guide, the General overheard the two in an apparently earnest and amicable talk. The General inquired of him afterward what he had been saying. " I've been telling the Comanche what I've seen among the white folks. I tell him 'bout the steamboats, and the railroads, and the heep o' houses I see in St. Louis, but he say Ize fool. I tell him the world is round, but he keep all o' time say, ' Hush, you fool, do you spose I'ze child ? Haven't I got eyes ? Can't I see the prairie ? You call him round ? Maybe so ; I tell you something you not know before. One time my grandfather he made long journey that way (West), when he got on big mountain, he see heep water on t'other side, just so flat as he can be, and he see the sun go straight down on t'other side. S'pose the world flat he stand still?'" General Marcy attempted to explain to him the telegraph, but there he was nonplussed. "What you call the magnetic telegraph?" He was told, " You have heard of New York and New Orleans ? " " Oh, yes." " Very well ; we have a wire connecting these two cities, which are 1,000 miles apart, and it would take a man thirty days, on a good horse, to ride it. Now, a man stands at one end of this wire in New York, and by touching it a tew times, he inquires of his friend in New Orleans, what he had for breakfast. His friend in New Orleans touches the other end of the wire, and in ten minjites the answer comes back, ham and eyys." Beaver was requested to tell this to the Co- manche, but he remained silent, his countenance all the time covered with a most comical, puz- zled expression. Again he was asked to tell him, when he observed, " No, Captain, I not tell him that, for I don't b'lieve that myself." He was assured that it was a fact, but no amount of assurances could induce him to pin his faith on such a seemingly incredible state- ment. All he would reply was simply, " Injun not very smart ; sometimes he's big fool, but he holler pretty loud; you hear him, maybe, half a mile ; you say ' Merican man he talk thousand miles ;' I 'spect you try to fool me now, Cap'n. Mai/ be you lie." Polygamy is quite frequent among many of the Indians of the plains, and some amusing stories are told of the way they get their wives. One such is told of an Indian boy of only eight- een, whose father, considering that he had ar- rived at the years of discretion, presented him with a lodge, several horses, and goods enough to establish him in life. The first thing the pre- cocious youth did was to go and secretly bargain with a chief for his daughter, enjoining secrecy, and then to a second, third and fourth, the re- sult of which was, that on a fixed day, he claimed all four ladies, to the astonishment "of the tribe 93 and the indignation of the fathers. But he ob- tained his wives and marched them off to his wigwam. Not only this, but the chiefs deter- mined that a youth who could do so bold an act, must be a person of discretion, and deserved and gave him a seat in the council among the war- riors and the medicine men. Of the want of books and writing among the Indians, they give the following explanations : " It is impossible. The Great Spirit at first made a red and a- white boy ; to the red boy he gave a book, and to the white boy a bow and arrow, but the white boy came round the red boy, stole his book, and went off, leaving him the bow and arrow, and, therefore, an Indian could not make a book." Carbon,, 656.5 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,750 feet. A telegraph station with usual side tracks for passing trains, and for the coal business which is done here. This is the first station on the line of the road, where the company obtains a supply of coal. A shaft about 120 feet deep has been sunk, and veins of coal opened about six feet thick. The coal is hoisted to the surface by means of a stationary engine, and dumped into cars by means of chutes, or into large bins from which it is taken to supply passing engines. From 50 to 150 men are employed in these mines, and a good many of them live in board shanties, adobe houses, and dug-outs along the side of the tuack. The coal is mostly used by the company but little being sold as it is not as good for domestic purposes as the coal found at Rock Springs. Leaving Car- bon we pass through a rugged country, with scenery sufficiently attractive to keep the traveler on the constant lookout, to Simpson, a side track, with section-house, 663.5 miles from Omaha, and an elevation of 6,898 feet. Passenger trains do not stop and on we go to Percy, 668.1 miles from Omaha, and 6,950 feet above the sea. From Simpson to this sta- tion, you can obtain the finest view of Elk Mountain on the left. We have not been able to ascertain its elevation, but its comparative short distance from the road causes it to look high and grand. It can be seen from a long dis- tance, either east or west, and is the noted peak of the Medicine Bow Range. It seems to jut out from the main ridge, and looking from the west, stands in bold relief against the sky. The station is named in honor of Colonel Percy, who was killed here by the Sioux Indians, when the road was being sur- veyed. At this station passengers who desire to visit Elk Mountain, and the region in its im- mediate vicinity will leave the cars. During the construction of the road large quantities of wood and ties with timber for bridges, were cut in the mountains and foot hills, and hauled to this station. At the foot of Elk Mountain stood Fort Halleck now abandoned, and a station of the Overland Stage Company. There were many skirmishes with the Indians in this vicinity in those days, and now and then you will be able to find an old settler who will entertain you for hours, in the recital of wild adventures and hair- breadth escapes. A visit to the site of the old fort and the region of country around, together with a close view of the grand scenery of the mountains, will amply repay the traveler for his time and money. About four miles south of Percy, fine veins of coal were discovered in 1875, but they have not been opened or tested. One is nine and the other over twenty feet in thick- ness. Notice a suggestive sign as you pass the station. It is " Bowles's Hotel," and of course, indicates that everything is perfectly " straight " within. South of this station there is some very fine grazing land, mostly in the valleys of the little streams that head in the Medicine Bow Range, and flow westward into the North Platte River, and a considerable quantity of hay is cut during favorable seasons. A Curious and Exciting Race. En- gineers have told of a curious scene on the Pacific Railroad not far from the Laramie Plains, of a race between the locomotive and a herd of deer. At daybreak, the locomotive, with its long train of carriages and freight cars, entered a narrow valley or gorge, where runs quite a rivulet of clear and cold mountain water. On the banks of this stream a large herd of red deer were standing, occasionally lapping the refresh- ing element. The timid creatures, startled by the presence in their midst of the " iron horse," knew not what course to pursue in order to get away from it. The engineer, to add to their evident perplexity, caused the whistle to send forth its loudest and most discordant shriek. This was enough for the deer. To get beyond reach of this new enemy, they started up the road, taking the course the locomotive was pursuing. The race became exciting. It was a superb trial of steam and iron against muscle and lung. The engineer " put on steam," and sent his locomotive with its burdensome train, whirling along the track ; but for many miles six or seven it was estimated the frightened animals kept ahead, fairly beating their antago- nist. At last the pursued and pursuer got into a more open country. This the deer perceiving, they sprang on one side, and, with unabated speed, ran to a safe distance, where beyond reach of locomotive or rifle, they stood and gazed with dilated eyes their limbs trembling from un- usual exertion, and gasping for breath at their fast receding enemy. Dana is the next station simply a side track. It is 674.2 miles from Omaha; elevation, 6,875 feet. The rugged, broken character of the country with cuts for the track, and fills in the 94 DEER RACE WITH TRAIN ON THE U. P. R. B. valleys, will interest the observing tourist if he passes by in daylight. St. Marys, 681.7 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,751 feet. It is a telegraph sta- tion with accompanying side tack, section-house, etc. From this station to the next, the bluffs are rugged and wild, the road passing through a short tunnel and several deep cuts. There is nothing but the changing scenery as you move along with the train, to relieve this country from its desolate appearance. Sage brush and grease- wood continue to be the only products of the soil. Walcott, a side track 689.5 miles from the Missouri River, and 6,800 feet above the sea. After leaving this station, the road winds around the bluffs, passing through some very deep cuts, near one of which there is a stone quarry from which stone is taken by the company for road purposes at Green River. A side track to the quarry has been laid and stone easily loaded on the flat cars used for their transportation. Sud- denly bursting through one of these cuts we enter the valley of the Platte, through what is called Rattle Snake Pass, by the railroad men, and arrive at Fort Sfeele, which is 695.3 miles from Omaha, 122.5 miles from Laramie, and has an elevation of 6,810 feet. It is a telegraph station, and the site of the government post of the same name. We cross North Platte River just before arriving at the station, and are 4,051 feet higher than when we crossed the same stream at North Platte City, near the junction of the two Plattes in the State of Nebraska. Fort Steele was established on the last day of June, 1868, by Col. R. I. Dodge, then of the Thirtieth United States Infantry. It is considered a good strate- gic point, as well as a convenient, base of supplies, in case of a campaign against the Indians. The buildings are mostly of logs, and none of them very comfortable. In 1875, the government fin- ished a fine stone hospital building here. The station also does considerable government busi- ness, and there is a government depot for receiv- ing and storing supplies near the track. The valley of the North Platte at this upper cross- ing is quite narrow, without the broad and fertile bottom-lands we were accustomed to see below as we whirled along its banks. From the head of this river in the North Park of Colorado, to a point as far down as Fort Laramie, its route describes the form of a horseshoe. Its tributa- ries from the east mostly rise in the Medicine Bow Range, and flow westward. They are principally Douglas Creek, .Fresh Creek,. Brush Creek, Cedar Creek, Spring Creek, and Pass Creek. They are beautiful streams with fine grass valleys and partially wooded banks. Its tributaries from the west are Beaver Creek, Grand Encampment Creek, Cow Creek, Hot Spring Creek, Jack Creek, and Sage Creek. Hot Spring Creek is so named from the hot sul- phur springs which are found near its mouth. All the streams which rise in the Medicine Bow Range, and flow into the North Platte, show the " color '' of gold where they have been prospected, and some rich diggings are said to have been discovered at the head of Douglas Creek. We believe it will not be long before the Medicine Bow Mountains will develop into a rich mining 95 country. The waters of the Hot Springs re- ferred to are claimed to possess remarkable me- dicinal virtues, and are from 40 to 45 miles from Fort Steele, up the right bank of the river. The wondeis of even these desolate plains do not begin to be known, and when they are fully realized, the world will be astonished at the results. About three miles west of Fort Steele is the site of Benton the town that was now wholly abandoned. For a short time it was the business terminus of the road, while its construc- tion was going on, and possessed all the charac- teristics of the railroad towns in those days. At one time it had a population estimated as high as five thousand souls. Old iron barrel hoops, rusty tin 'cans, a few holes in the ground, a few posts and stumps, and nearly or quite a hundred nameless graves in close proximity, are all that perior satisfaction it would give. The railroad reached and passed Benton in July, 1868. The valley of the N. Platte River begins to be occu- pied by cattle men, as stock can be carried through the severest winters, thus far experienced, without hay. It has superior advantages, not only for grazing, but its numerous " draws " or ravines afford friendly shelter in case of storms. View on the North Platte, near Fort Fred Steele. The Platte River here is over 700 miles from its mouth near Omaha, and has an elevation of 6,845 feet. Upon the plains it was a wide, shallow stream, with sand-bars and shift- ing currents. Here it is a deep, clear, cold stream, and but little distant from its source among the perpetual snow banks of the Rocky Mountains. Grennville is the next station, 703.7 miles from Omaha with an elevation of 6,560 feet &-.-; VIEW OX THE PLATTE now remain to mark the place where Benton was. It grew in a day, and faded out of sight as quickly. But it was a red-hot town while it lasted. A death, sometimes two or three of them, with corresponding burials, was the morn- ing custom. Whisky was preferred to water be- cause it was much easier to obtain, and unre- strained by civilized society or wholesome laws, the devil in men and women had full sway, and made free exhibitions of his nature. The town was three miles from the North Platte River, where all the water was obtained and hauled in, price ten cents per bucket, or one dollar per barrel. In that town, a drink of regular old " tangle-foot " whisky, at " two bits " ( twenty- five cents) would last a good deal longer than a bucket of water, to say nothing of the su- XEAR FORT FRED STEELE. above the sea. It is simply a side track for the meeting and passing of trains. Passenger trains seldom stop. The next station and the end of a subdivision of the road is Rawlins, named in honor of Gen. John A. Rawlins, General Grant's chief of staff and his first secretary of war. The springs near here bear the same name, but it has been incorrectly spelled, heretofore. This station is 137.9 miles from Laramie, and 710.7 miles from Omaha. It has an elevation of 6,732 feet. We are going up hill again. The town has a population of about 600 souls, a large majority of whom are railroad employes. The company has erected a hotel for the use of its employes and the traveling public, and has a roundhouse and machine-shops which are kept pretty busy in the repair of engines. 96 The water used by engines on this division is strongly impregnated with alkali and other sub- stances, which form scales on the inside of the boiler and adhere to the flues. The engines are, therefore, carefully watched and every precaution taken to guard against accidents. North of the town, is what might be called in some countries, a mountain. Near the east end of this mount- ain valuable beds of red hematite iron ore have been found. This ore is very pure, and, when ground, makes a very hard and durable paint. It is said to be water and fire-proof when used in sufficient quantities. The dark red freight and flat cars which you see on the line of the road belonging to the company, have been painted with this material, and it is rapidly growing into public favor as its merits become known. There are two mills here for the manu- facture of this paint, and a large quantity is always on hand. Forty miles due north from Rawlins are the Ferris and Seminole mining dis- tricts. These mines were, visited, in 1875, by Professor Hayden and Professor Thompson. The lodes operated by the Vulcan Mining Com- pany, indicated gold, silver and copper, mixed with iron. This company is composed mostly of mechanics and employes of the Union Pacific. They first sunk a shaft on the vein and obtained ore at about 60 feet from the surface that assayed well and gave indications of a rich mine. They then commenced a tunnel, and from their monthly wages, during nearly two years or more, contributed and expended about $24,000. At a distance of about 365 feet, they struck the vein, and have a large body of rich ore in sight and on the dump. A mill will soon be put in, when the company will begin to realize some- thing for their outlay. The Elgin Mining Com- pany have also put in a tunnel, and are reported to have struck a rich vein. The developments, thus far mads, indicate that the copper and silver will soon run out, and that the mines will be essentially gold-bearing. South of Rawlins about 60 miles, in the Snake River Region, are fine grazing fields, already occupied, to a certain ex- tent, by cattle men, and mining country yet undeveloped. Placer diggings have been found and worked to some extent, and indications of rich quartz lodes are prevalent, some having already been discovered. A colony of farmers and miners from the vicinity of Denver, Col., have settled in that region, and more are con- stantly going in. About a mile and a half from Rawlins, east, is a large sulphur spring. It is untaken. as yet. We could not ascertain whether the waters had been analyzed or not, though they are claimed to possess the usual medicinal qualities of water from similar springs. The springs frequently alluded to as Rawlins Springs, are on the left of the track, and a little west of the town. The small creek which passes through the place, is known as Separation Creek, and empties into the North Platte River north of Fort Steele. There are, also, immense beds or lakes of soda, tributary to this station, some of which is nearly pure. When they are utilized, as they doubtless soon will be, and the industry is developed, employment will be given to many laborers now idle, together with fortunes to those who have the nerve and capacity to successfully carry it on. We are informed that from twelve to fourteen millions of dollars are annually paid in customs duties on the article of imported soda, alone. Rawlins is in the midst of a broken, des- olate country, and depends upon railroad impor- tations for nearly everything upon which its people live, though there is a fine country re- ported both north and south. In addition to the other buildings named, it has the usual quantity of saloons, together with several stores, at which a thriving trade is done. The future of the town will depend largely upon the developments in the mining districts spoken of. Summit. A side track, nearly seven miles from Rawlins, and 717.4 miles from Omaha; elevation, 6,821 feet. Heavy grades now for quite a distance. Separation. One would naturally suppose from the name, that the waters flowing east and west, divided or separated here, but such is not the fact. It is reported that a party of engineers who were surveying and locating the road, separated here to run different lines hence the name. It is a telegraph station, 724.1 miles from Omaha, and 6,900 feet above the level of the sea. The artesian well at this station, which supplies the water tank is 860 feet deep. The water from these wells is not always pure fre- quently having a brackish or alkali ta.ste. Fillmore, named in honor of a former di- vision superintendent of the road, now in the stock business, with ranche at Wyoming. It is 731.6 miles from Omaha; elevation, 6,885 feet. Simply a side track in the midst of a barren, broken country. Creston, 738.6 miles from the eastern ter- minus of the road, and 7,030 feet above the sea. It is a telegraph station, with the usual side tracks and section-house. Three miles farther west, and we reach the summit of the divide which separates the waters of the two oceans. This is the crowning ridge in the backbone of the Continent, and a desolate place it is. It is the summit of the Rocky Mountains. " What was this country made for?" We asked a fellow- traveler. " To hold the rest of it together " was the ready reply. That is good; the best reason for its existence we've had. It is of some use after all. Allowing 60 feet grade for the three miles west of Creston, to the actual summit of the divide, and we are then 1,122 feet lower than at Sherman. It is true there are no lofty peaks here, with snowy crests the year round, but an immense roll, over which we glide and 97 never think that we are crossing the summit of the rock-ribbed Rockies. At this divide a short distance north of the track, a pole was once erected with a flag to mark the spot, but it has fallen before the fierce gales which sweep over this elevated ridge, and which seem to have with- ered everything they touched. Standing on the rear platform of the train, looking east you notice the undulations of the road as it passes beneath you ; Elk Mountain of the Medicine Bow Range, and the far distant Black Hills rise grandly in view as you approach the crest, but suddenly you have passed to the other side, and a stretch of country two hundred miles long drops from your view in an instant. On this part of the road the most difficulty with snow is usually experienced in the winter. There is a constant breeze here, and frequent storms, though a few miles farther it may be clear and pleasant. In the great snow blockade of the winter of 1871-2, the telegraph poles were frequently buried in the drifts. The Western Union Company had their wires ele- vated on poles planted in the snow in several places, to keep them above the drifts. In that blockade, the worst ever known since the road was built, there were seventeen days without trains. Since then the track has been raised, snow fences planted, sheds erected and every pos- sible appliance used to insure the safe and speedy passage of trains. Looking again to the north you can see the snowy heads of the Wind River Mountains, with the peak named after Fremont, the gallant Path-finder of the West, towering against the sky. Notice the dark shades of the timber lines as they press against the eternal snows with which they are covered. Looking forward to the west, if you have a chance, Pilot Butte, north of Rock Springs, one of the great landmarks of- the plains, is clearly visible. To the south you behold the mountains where the tributaries of the Snake River rise, and whence they flow into the Pacific Ocean. Passing rapidly down the grade we arrive at Lathatn, 746.1 miles from Omaha, and 6,900 feet above the sea. Passenger trains do not stop as it is only a side track. On we go to Wushakle, so called after a Shoshone chief, reputed to be friendly to the whites, whose tribe fights the Sioux when there is opportunity. It is 753.7 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,697 feet ; and nearly 200 feet lower than at the last station. Red JJesert. The country near is reddish in appearance, but the place is named alter the Red Desert, near which is an immense basin of its own, similar to the Salt Lake basin. It lies 500 feet below the level of the country, lias no outlet, and extends from the South Pass on the north, to Bridger's Pass on the south, and east from summit of the divide to Tipton on the west, a very singular depression right on the divide of the Continent. The little stream just seen before reaching this place, flows south and is lost in this 7 basin. The country near is alkali, and subject to high water and heavy rains, giving great diffi- culty to preserve the security of road-bed and track. Station is 763 miles from Omaha; ele- vation 6,710 feet. Tipton, a side track for meeting and pass- ing trains. It is 769.6 miles from the " Big Muddy," with an elevation of 6,800 feet. We have been going up hill again leaving the val- ley of the Snake River. The snows of winter leave heavy drifts along here, but the railroad men have learned by experience how to manage them quite successfully. When the drifts have reached the top of the fences in height, they go along and raise the fences to the top of the drifts, fastening them as best they can in the snow. This they repeat as often as necessary, and thus, the snow, in many instances, is kept away from the track, but the drifts become pretty high. Table Rock, named from a rock resembling a table south of, and about six miles from the station. It is 776.3 miles from Omaha, and 6,890. feet above the sea is a telegraph station. There is a long, evenly cut bluff south of the track, estimated to be 600 feet in height. On what appears to be the north-west corner of this bluff a square, table-like, projection rises the table and presents a very odd appearance. It can be seen for quite a distance, as you look to the left from the cars. The table projects about 60 feet above the bluffs adjoining, though it does not seem half that distance. Next we come to Ayate, 781.3 miles from Omaha, and 6,785 feet above the sea. South of this station and to a certain extent, in its immediate vicinity, moss agates are found. The stones, however, are not clear and well-defined. They are smoky and dark, rendering them nearly valueless. Agate is only a side track where trains seldom stop. Down the grade we pass to Bitter Creek, a telegraph station, 786.3 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,685 feet. At this station, we first strike the well- known Bitter Creek Valley, through which we shall pass to Green River. About four miles below this station, on the south side of the track, the old overland stage and emigrant road struck the valley, as it came in from Bridger's Pass, and across the Snake River Valley. The railroad reaches Bitter Creek through a " draw " or dry ravine which unites with the valley proper, at the station. The old stage-road struck the creek farther south, and before it reaches the railroad. This was formerly quite a station, and the end of a passenger division. It has a small round- house, with five stalls and turn-table, upon which the engines and snow-plows are turned. Between this station and Rawlins, as has been observed, are very heavy grades, requiring two engines to pull a train. These extra engines come with trains as far as this station, and then assist east- ward bound trains back again. A large quan- SCENES ON GREEN RIVER. 1.- Flaming Gorge. 2. Brown's Hole. 3. Looking up the Valley of Green River. 99 tity of bridge timber is also kept here, ready for any emergency. In the great washout at the foot of this valley, in the spring of 1875, large quantities were used. Bitter Creek is rightly named. Its waters are so strongly impregnated with alkali that they are almost useless. Nevertheless, at the head of this creek, where it is fed by cold, clear springs, for more than ten miles from the station, trout have been caught, though they are small. The rugged scenery along this valley will interest the traveler, as the views are constantly changing. There are no machine- shops for repairs here, only the five-stall roundhouse. The ci-eek has been dammed for the purpose of supplying the water tank, though the water is not the best for boil- ers. The whole region of country, from a point east, as far as Rock Creek to Green River, is underlaid with coal. It frequently crops out in this valley. The coal is lignite and will not " coke " like the bituminous coal. There are also indications of iron and other minerals, in the immediate vicin- ity of the valley. Occasionally, you will see little shrub pines on the bluffs but no timber. These pines have tried to grow, but the sterility of the soil is against them. They find it almost impossible to " take root." Sometimes it seems, as you pass down the valley and look ahead, as though the train was going square against the rocks, and would be dashed in pieces; but a sudden curve, and you have rounded the projecting bluffs, and are safely pursuing your journey. Again, it seems as though the bluffs were trying to shake hands across the chasm, or making an effort to become dovetailed together. They assume all sorts of shapes, washed out in places by the storms of ages smoothly carved as if by the hand of the sculptor and again, ragged and grotesque. The geology of the Bitter Creek and Green River Valleys, will afford a chapter of curious interest, and will amply reward him who searches thoroughly after the knowledge. Professor Hayden and Major Powell have the best reports on the forma- tion and geology of this region. Black Buttes is the next station, 795.4 miles from Omaha, and 6,600 feet above the sea. It is a telegraph station with accompanying side tracks. Formerly there was a coal mine worked here, said to be- long to Jack Morrow, now of Omaha, and quite a noted frontier character in his day. It furnishes excellent coal, easily ac- cessible, the vein being from six to eight feet thick. As you approach the station, notice the balanced rock north of the road and within 50 feet of the side track. The buttes from which the station is named are south of the creek, and plainlv . ., , J: J visible. Hallville, named after a noted contractor who graded the road through this . part of the valley. A few posts and adobe walls are all that remain of the camp. It is simply a side track, 800.9 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,590 feet. Point of Itocks is a station with a his- tory. It was formerly quite a town, but its glory has departed with the causes which brought it into existence. It was formerly the point of departure and the outfitting place for the Sweetwater Gold District, South Pass City, Atlantic City, Camp Stambaugh, and other places in the region of the Great South Pass at the foot of Wind River Mountains, and is the nearest railroad point to those places, to-day, with a good wagon road not much traveled. Distance to South Pass City, 65 miles. The rocks from which this place is named are on a high point south of the track, and a little east of the station. They seem in the distance like faint outlines of huge perpendicular columns, not very high, but really 365 feet perpendicular above their base surroundings. Their summit is about 1,100 feet above the track. At the base of the rocks proper, and about 735 feet above the track, seven sulphur springs break out, three of which are large ones, the balance being small. North of the track, and three-fourths of a mile west of the station, is an iron spring, reputed to possess remarkable medicinal qual- ities, several invalids, especially females, hav- ing been highly benefited by drinking and bathing in its waters. Four miles north of the station is a huge sulphur spring, with water pouring forth from the ground. The artesian well, which supplies the water tank here, is 700 feet deep. Water is pumped out by steam power. ~\\ ells & Fargo's Over- land Express Company had a station here, and their old adobe buildings, rapidly going into decay, may still be seen across the creek, at the base of the bluffs. In the " piping " times of the town several build- ings were commenced, but the collapse was so sudden that they were never completed. This station is 806.7 miles from Omaha, and 6,490 feet above the sea. If the springs in the vicinity are improved, it will become a great resort for invalids, and those who de- sire to realize the beneficial effects of their healing waters. Thayer, simply a side track, 812 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,425 feet. The moving trains will give the tourist an ever-varying view of the grand and beau- tiful scenery of this valley. Salt Wells, 818.2 miles from the eastern 100 terminus of the road, and 6,360 feet above the sea. It is a telegraph station, and in the construction period of the road, was a place where considerable timber, wood, etc., was delivered. The water from the well here has a saltish, alkaline taste, hence the name. Three and one-half miles north, there is a salt or alkali basin, which has no visible outlet in which the brackish waters stand the most of the year. Haxter, 826.2 miles from Omaha; eleva- its entire line. Rock Springs coal for domestic purposes is only surpassed by anthracite. It has but little of the sulphurous smell of other soft coal, burns into ashes without clinkers, and without the black soot which characterizes other coal. These mines, with others, were formerly operated by the Wyoming Coal Company. Their product is annually increasing ; wherever the superior merits of the coal have become known it speedily supplants other kinds in use. In 1875 the company mined 104,427 tons, or CASTLE EOCK. tion, 6,300 feet A side track where passenger trains do not stop. The valley narrows in this vicinity, and the rugged rocks with their ragged edges, if possible become more interesting to the observer. Rock Springs, 831.6 miles from Omaha, and 6,280 feet above the sea. This is the great coal station on the line of the Union Pacific Road. The company not only furnishes the finest lignite coal to be found, for its own use, but supplies the market at every point along 10,442 cars allowing the usual ten tons per car. They did not, however, ship this number of cars as considerable coal is furnished to all the en- gines that pass, and consumed by the people living in the town. They are now working two veins, one six and the other about nine feet in thickness. Lawrence, 840.6 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,200 feet. A side track for passing trains between Rock Springs and Green liiver, which is the end of the Lara- 101 mie division of the road, 273.8 miles from that place, and 8i6.6 miles from Omaha, with an ele- vation of 6,140 feet. This is a regular eating- station, breakfast and supper, and is now one of the best kept hostelries on the road. This place will eventually be a popular resort for those who are seeking for fossiliferous remains, and those who delight in fishing. Here is the outfitting point for hunting and fishing parties who desire to go either north or south, and here is the head center for Rocky Mountain spec- imens, fossils, petrifactions, etc., and travelers would like to know beforehand just what accom- modations they can obtain. Mr. Kitchen is able to provide for all, in elegant style, at reasonable prices. Here, also, he has on exhibition and for sale the spacim-sns alluded to such as beautiful moss agates, fossil fish, petrified shells and wood, with othsrs which we are not able to name. Par- others to reclaim the soil, but thus far with indifferent success, though Mr. Fields was quite successful, in 1875, with a crop of potatoes, cabbages, turnips, radishes, and other "garden truck." Stages leave here for the Big Horn Waters and other towns tri- weekly. The old mud huts are beginning to find occupants again. The Desert House is the only hotel, a pleasant place with its flowers, ferns, and pictures. The high projecting tower north of the track, crowning a bluff, is 625 feet higher than the river level below, and about 615 feet higjier than the track. Other rocks, as " The Sisters " and " The Twin Sisters " will be readily recog- nized by the passing traveler. " Wake up, wake up," said an old lady to her husband, as the train approached the station one THE TWIN SISTERS, GREEN RIVER. ties of men are employed to search the hills, mountains and valleys in this vicinity, for these specimens, and when found, to bring them in. The stock is, therefore, continually replenished with rich and rare gems and fossils, and they mav here be obtained at any tirm. Being the end of a division, Green River has a large roundhouse with fifteen stalls, and the usual machine and repair shops. The railroad bursts into the valley through a narrow gorge between two hills, then turns to the rirrht and enters the town, crossing the river beyond on a wooden truss bridge. The old adobe' town, re- mains of which are still visible, was on the bot- tom-land directly in front of the gorge. Green River is now the county-seat of Sweetwater County, Wyoming, and has a population of nearly 1,000 persons. Efforts have been made by Air. Fields and a few morning last year; "here is Solomon's temple petrified," said she, as she gave him another shake. The old gentleman rubbed his eyes, gave another yawn, and finally looked out, to see what excites the curiosity of every traveler, as he arrives at this place. Sure enough : it seems as though some great temple once stood here, or several of them, and in the wrecks of time, left their gigantic pillars standing, as a reminder of their former greatness. The Green River, The peculiar color of this river is not owing to the fact of any discolora- tion of the water ; that, when the banks of the stream are not filled by freshets of itself or some of its tributaries, is very pure and sweet, and of the usual color of clear water, but is owing to the green shale through which it runs, amd which can readily be seen in the bluffs in the vicinity and for quite a distance up Black's Fork, and 102 HSF. PETRIFIED FISH CUT, GREEN RIVER. which is supposed to contain arsenic or chloride of .copper, which b 3Com as detached by drainage and fastens itself to the pebble stones and bot- tom of the stream, causing the water, as you look into it, to bear the same color. This river rises in the Wyoming and Wind River Mount- ains, is fed by numerous tributaries, and flows in a general southerly direction, until it unites with the Colorado River. The scenery along its banks, most always rugged, in some places is sublime. Where it is crossed by the railroad, its valley is narrow, enclosed on either side by high bluffs, which have been washed into numerous fanciful shapes by the storms of time, and which are crowned, in many instances, by col- urns, or towers, forcibly reminding one of the towers, battlements and castles, spoken of in the old feudal times. Its tributaries, nearly all have narrow fertile valleys, which are be- ing occupied by stockmen, and which afford both hay and shelter for stock. South of the railroad, it winds through the famous Col- orado Canon, so well and grandly described by Major Powell, the explorer. The river and its surroundings must from their very nature, always be a source of interest to the scien- tist, and will soon become a popular resort for fossil hunters, gem searchers and sports- men. Brown's Hole. This is a beautiful scene just below Red Canon, the water is calm, quiet, and peaceful, like a mirror, with wonderfully dis- tinct reflections. Here is the last quiet stretch of the river ere it enters into the turbulent pas- sage of the deeper, gloomier, and larger canon WEST BANK GREEN RIVER, LOOKING EASTWARD. below. The sandy beach, at the left, shows the foot-prints of numerous deer, bears, and elk that frequent the bank. Brown's Hole is an expansion of the val- ley of Green River, and is about five miles wide and thirty miles long. This is a name given by the old trappers, 40 years ago, or more and has been a favorite wintering place for stock. Little or no snow falls in the valleys, and they are so well surrounded by high mountains, that the bleak winds of winter cannot reach them. The valley is covered with wild sage and bunch grass and at the time of the visit of the Hayden Exploring Party, there were 2,200 head of Texas cattle, just driven in, to fatten for the California market. In the north sides of the valley, the beds of rock have, by the action of the weather, become shaped into innumerably beautiful, architectural forms, like the ruins of pyramids. Giant's Club. This is fairly a giant in di- mensions, as its proportions are really colos- sal. It rises with almost perpendicular sides, and is impossible to scale by ascent. The rock is valuable for its curious composition, as it bears evidences of having once existed at the bottom of a lake. The rock lies in regular strata, all horizontal, and most of these contain fossils of plants and fishes. The plants are all extinct species, and closely allied to our fruit and forest trees ; among them, however, are some palms, which indicated this to be, in original times, vhen the deposit was formed, a very warm climate. Professor Hayden, in examining this rock, and others near, found the plants in the upper part of the rock, and about a hundred feet 103 lower down, discovered the remains of fishes, all of them belonging to fresh water, and all extinct species. They were imbedded in oily shales, and insects were found with them, in a remarkable state of preservation. With the fishes were also found feathers of birds, and a few reeds. Peculiarities of the Green River Rocks. To the curious formation of rocks which give all this region its characteristic features, is given the name of the Green River Shales ; the sedi- ments are arranged in regular layers, mostly quite thin, but varying from the thickness of a knife-blade to several feet. These peculiar layers, or bands, are quite varied in shades of color. In some of the thin slabs of shale, are thousands of beautiful impressions of fish, some- times a dozen or so within ths compass of a ters of the river are of the purest emerald, with banks and sand-bars of glistening white. The perpendicular bluff to the left is nearly 1,500 feet above the level of the river, and of a bright red and yellow. When illuminated by full sunlight, it is grand, and deserves its full title " The Flam- ing Gorge." It is the entrance to a gateway to the still greater wonders and grandeurs of the famous Red Canon that cuts its way to a depth of 3,000 feet, between this point and its entrance into Brown's Hole. Leaving Green River the railroad crosses the bridge, turns to the right, and runs along under the bluffs the highest being about 350 feet high, and almost over the river in one place for about three miles, when it again turns to the left, passing the divide where there is an \m- GIAUT'S CLUB, GBEEN RIVEK. square foot. Impressions of insects and water plants are also sometimes found. At Burning Rock Cut, the road is cut through thin layers of a sort of cream-colored, chalky limestone, inter- spersed with strata of a dark brown color, saturated with petroleum as to burn freely. The Cut derives its name Burning Rocks, from the fact that during the building of the road the rocks became ignited and burned for some days, illuminating the labor of the workmen by night and filling the valley with dense clouds of smoke by day. Curious Scenes along the Green River. At the mouth of Henry's Fork there is a view on Green River of great beauty, which derives its principal charm from its vivid colors. The wa- GIANT'S TEA-POT, GREEN EIVER. named side track, and along a hilly, broken country. The Sweetwater. This stream rises in the Wind River Mountains, directly north of Point of Rocks and Salt Wells, in the great South Pass, discovered by General Fremont, and runs in a general easterly direction uniting with the North Platte River about 80 miles north of Fort Steele. South of it is the Sweetwater Mountain Range* North of it lay the Rattlesnake Hills, which are said to be one continuous chain of broken ragged rocks heaped upon each other in confused masses. They are utterly barren and desolate, and beyond the snakes which give them their name, are avoided by almost every living thing. Near the mouth of this river, Independence 104 Rock, a noted landmark of the plains, rises. It is 011 the line of the Indian trail, to the upper North Platte Region, and near it has been found immense deposits of soda in lakes which are said to be nearly pure, and which are soon to be worked. The valley of this stream is rarely covered with snow in winter, and affords ex- cellent grazing for stock the entire year. Were it not so exposed to Indian raids in summer, it would soon be occupied. The care of stock re- quires horses and beyond the killing of a few head for beef occasionally, the Indians do not trouble it ; the horses are what they want, and what they come after and scalps will be taken, if necessary to obtain them. Placer, gulch and quartz gold has been discovered in the Wind River Mountains, near the Great South Pass, and fortunes have been made and lost in that mining district in a very short time. They have been made by the mining sharks, who sold their mines to the inexperienced and uninitiated from the East, and lost by the parties who were " taken in." There are however valuable mines in this vicinity (nearly all gold), which will some day be developed. To the east of the Wind River Mountains the Shoshone or Snake River Indian reservation has been laid off. The principal towns are Atlantic City, South Pass City and Miner's Delight, a mining town. Near Atlantic City is Camp Stambough and still farther north on the east side of the same mount- ain, is Camp Brown, the latter being near the boundary line of the Indian reservation referred to. Very fine hot mineral springs have been found on or near this reservation, which will eventually be extensively patronized. The main road by which these places are reached, leads out from Bryan and Green River. From the latter place four-horse coaches are run tri-weekly, while from the former a great quantity of gov- ernment freight is annually shipped. The road crosses the river near the mouth of Big Sandy Creek, and follows up this stream, and its south branch to Pacific Spring, after which it crosses a low divide to a tributary of the Sweetwater. While the road from Point of Rocks is much shorter yet this route is said to be the best as it follows the valley of a stream all the way, and avoids sand-hills which are very trying to stock. From Green River the road at present traveled, passes up the valley until it strikes the Big Sandy, where it intersects the road from Bryan. The nearest peaks seen on the north side of the track, as you pass the divide just west of Creston, are those of the real Rocky Mountain Range, and extend in a north-westerly direction to the head of the Wind River Mountains, from which they are only divided by the Sweetwater Valley. Be- fore the Lodge Pole Valley Route was discovered via the Cheyenne Pass, the North Platte and Sweetwater Route via the South Pass and Big Sandy was the main, in fact the great overland route, traveled by the Mormons and Cali- fornia emigrants. At the time the railroad was built, however, the Lodge Pole Route was the one mainly traveled. The vast region north of the railroad between the Black Hills and Green River Valley, contains within itself the germs of a mighty empire, only waiting for the united efforts of capital and labor for development. Bryan, over 13 miles from Green River, and 860 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,340 feet or just 200 feet higher than at Green River. This station was formerly a division ter- minus at which time it was a place of consider- able importance. The government has a depot here, where its freight for Camp Stambaugh, Camp Brown and other places is received. The majority of the freight for the Sweetwater Min- ing District and the settlements at the base of the Wind River Mountains, South Pass City, Atlantic City, etc., is also shipped from this place, the distance to the latter city being 90 miles. Bryan is the first station where the rail- road strikes Black's Fork of the Green River. This fork rises in the Uintah Mountains, directly south of Piedmont, and runs in a north-easterly direction till it reaches Bryan, then turns toward the south-west and unites with Green River some twenty miles below the town of Green River. The valley at Bryan is quite broad in places, and thickly covered with sage brush and greasewood. The soil is said to be fertile and capable of pro- ducing large crops with irrigation. Fort Bridger, eleven miles south of Carter Station, is on this stream, and at that place over 300 bushels of potatoes have been raised from a single half acre of ground. This shows what this virgin soil can do if irrigated. The table- land on the elevated benches that the traveler will observe on either side of the road, is said to be equally rich, and would be equally as prolific if it could be irrigated. As you approach Bryan, look away to the south and south-east, and you will behold the towering peaks of the Uintah Mountains, 70 or 80 miles off. They do not look so distant, but then distance is very decep- tive in this country. Bryan is a telegraph sta- tion with a store, saloon, and a few houses all that's left to tell the story of its better and de- parted days. Its early history is the same as all the railroad towns we have mentioned, with roughs, cut-throats, gamblers, villains, etc., and their cleaning out by vigilance committees, under law administered by "Judge Lynch." We now pursue our way up the valley of Black's Fork. Four miles west of Bryan, the road first crosses this stream which it follows to Church Buttes. Marston is the next station a side track 21 miles from Green River, and 867.6 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,245 feet. From the appar- ently level plains which the road crosses, abrupt buttes or bluffs rise as if built by human hands 105 as mounds to conceal some treasure, or to perpet- uate some remarkable incident in history. They form a curious study, and awaken no little in- terest in the mind of an observing traveler. To the left of the track there are a number of low buttes as you approach Granger, the next station, 877.2 miles from Omaha, and 6,270 feet above the sea. It is a telegraph station, named in honor of an old set- tler here, and is the principal shipping point on the line of the Union Pacific, for Montana and Idaho cattle. These cattle are driven to this point from the territories named, and the ship- ments are increasing every year. Yards and chutes have been erected for their ac commodation and use. Near the station are one or two stone houses. The road here crosses Him's Fork, a tributary of Black's Fork, which rises some 70 to Evanston, in great profusion. The most of them, however, are valueless, but occasionally specimens of rare beauty are picked up. On what are called " the bad lands," about 7 miles south of the road, however, the finest agates, with other beautiful gem;-, are obtained with lit- tle difficulty. In Ham's Fork water agates, creamy white, and amber colored, may be occa- sionally picked up. They are quite rare, and when cut by the lapidary, are held to be of con- siderable value. View of Uintah Mountains. The view we give an illustration of, on page 80, is one of the finest in the Far West. The scene is taken from Photograph Ridge, at an elevation of 10,829 feet. In the foreground is a picturesque group of the mountain pines. In the middle distance flows Black's Fork. The peaks or cones CHITRCH BUTTES miles north-west, and which, the old settlers say, is really the main stream of the two. The banks of this stream, as far as you can see, are lined with bushes, and farther up, its valley produces luxuriant grass, from which hay is cut, and upon which numerous herds of cattle feed. An oval peak rises on the north side of the track, beyond which, in the distance, may be seen a range of bluffs, or mountains,which rise up between Ham's Fork and Green River. From Granger to the next station, are buttes on both sides of the track, while, to the left, the high - peaks of the Uintah Range tower up in the distance, affording one of the grandest views on the line of the road. This is the region of moss agates, gems of vari- ous kinds, and precious stones. Agates are found all along the line of the road from Green River ON BLACK'S FORK. in the distance have their summits far above the limits of perpetual snow, and from 1.500 to 2,000 feet above the springs that are the sources of the streams below. These cones are distinctly strati- fied, mostly horizontal, and there are frequently vast piles of purplish, compact quartzite, which resemble Egyptian pyramids on a gigantic scale, without a trace of grit, vegetation, or water. One of these remarkable structures stands otit isolated from the rest, in the middle of the Valley of Smith's, Fork, and is so much like a Gothic church, that the United States Surveying Party gave it the name of Hayden's Cathedral, after the leader of the exploration. Church Itnttes, 887.7 miles from Omaha ; elevation, 6,317 feet. The particular buttes, from which the station derives its name, are 106 about 10 miles south of the station, on the old overland stage road, but buttes rise up from the level plains in this vicinity in every direction. They are, however, fast washing away. The annual increase iii rain-fall on this desert, since the completion of the railroad and the stretch- ing of live telegraph wires, is remarkable, and is especially noticed by the old settlers. These rains, with the frosts of winter, are having a noticeable effect on the buttes. Isolated peaks have disappeared entirely and prominent pro- jections have been materially lessened. There are still a large number, however, chiseled by the action of frosts and rains into fantastic shapes which will excite the attention and rivet the gaze of the traveler, as he passes by ; but, if their annual diminution continues, in less than half a century, they will have lost their interest. Near this station is the last crossing of Black's Fork, which now bears away to the left, while the road ascends another of its branches, called ths Big Muddy. What has been said in refer- ence to agates, etc., of the other stations, will apply to Church Buttas with equal force. Curious Scientific Explorations. Church Buttes is a curious formation, located on the line of the old overland stage route, about one hundred and fifty miles east from Salt Lake, and at this point having an elevation of 6,731 feet. The formation is part of the Mauvaiaes Turres, or Bad Lands, and consists of a vast de- posit of sedimentary sandstones, and marly clay, in perfectly horizontal strata, and contain within thsir beds, some very remarkable paleontological remains. The peculiar effects of stormy weather and flood, in the past, has carved the bluff-lines into the most curious and fantastic forms lofty domes and pinnacles, and fluted columns, these rocks resembling some cathedral of the olden tim?, standing in the midst of desolation. Professor Hayden, in speaking of them says, " Distance lends a most delicious enchantment to tha scene, and the imagination can build many castles from out of this mass of most singular formation. A nearer approach dispels some of the illusions, but the mind is no less impressed with the infinite variety of detail and the scat- tered remains of the extinct life of some far dis- tant age." In this section are found " moss agates," in the greatest abundance, being scattered all over the surface of the country. Standing upon one of the summits of the highest point of the "Bad Lands," Hayden says, " as far as the eye can reach, upon every side, is a vast extent of most infinite detail. It looks like some ruined city of the gods, blasted, bare, desolate, but grave, beyond a mortal's telling." In 1870, a geological expedi- tion, headed by Prof. O. C. Marsh, of Yale College, and known as the " Yale College Expedition of 1870 " visited the " Bad Lands " and made a geological examination. They were accompanied by Buffalo Bill, a military troupe, and ten Pawnee Indians, as guides. On the way, Professor Marsh endeavored to explain the mighty changes of geology and the grand discoveries they would make and as Buffalo Bill intimated, some of them were " pretty touyh yarn.*." The desolation of the country can only be imagined, not de- scribed hour after hour the party marched over burning sand-hills, without rocks or trees, or signs of water, while the thermometer stood at 110 in the shade of the wagons. After fourteen hours in the saddle, one of the soldiers, exhaust- ed with heat and thirst, finally exclaimed : " What did God Almif/hty make auch as this for .*" " Why," replied another more devout trooper, " God Almighty made the country good enough, but it's this deuced geology the professor lalks about, that spoiled it all. ' ' For fresh water the party had to thank the favor of a thunder-shower, during which they drank from the rims of each other's hats. Their researches resulted in the discovery of the re- mains of various species of the camel, horse, mammals, and others new to science. A branch of this expedition exploring the canons and plains of Northern Colorado, discovered a large deposit which contained great quantities of fossil turtles, and rhinoceros, birds, and the re- mains of the areodon, a remarkable animal combining the characteristics of the modern sheep, pig and deer. The remains of another mon- ster, the Titano/herium, were found of such vast proportions, that a lower jaw measured over four feet in length. At Antelope Station, in one of these areodon beds, remains were found of several species of horse ; one a three-toed ani- mal, and another which, although full grown, had attained the height of but two feet. In an ex- ploration near Green River the expedition found petrified fishes in abundance, and a small bed, containing fossil insects, a rare discov- ert/. Here were beetles and dragons, flies and grasshoppers ; a gigantic fossil mosquito, and an extinct flea of greut dimensions were also discovered. At Fort Wallace, Ks., the party found a trophy in the form of a skeleton of a sea serpent nearly complete, which alone re- quired four days to dig out and bring to the camp. This monster when alive could not have been less than 60 feet. It had a slender eel- like body and tail, with mouth like a boa-con- strictor. Among the curious incidents which happened, was the discovery of a genuine Sioux Indian bur- ial ground. The dead were reposing on platforms of boughs elevated above the ground, and sup- ported at the four corners by poles about eight feet in height. On one of these tombs lay two bodies, a woman, decked in beads and bracelets, and a scalpless brave, with war paint still on the cheeks, and holding in his crumbling hand, a rusty shot-gun, and a pack of cards. Several 107 incident* occurred from the abundance of rattle- snakes. Several animals were bitten by them, and the country at some places fairly swarmed with them. Numbers were killed every day by the horses' feet, and while members of the party would occasionally bathe in the river, these reptiles would bask upon the bank of the stream near their clothes, as one of them says, " Their humming soon became an old tune, and the charm of shooting the wretches wore away for all but one, who was collecting their rattles as a necklace for his lady love." Hampton, a little over 50 miles from Green River, 897.1 miles from Omaha, and 6,500 feet above the sea. It is simply a side track where, occasionally, trains meet and pass. Approaching this station, two large buttes lift themselves above their fellows on the left side of the track, while beyond, a low, dark ridge may be seen cov- ered with cedars. In this ridge is an abundance of game and good hunting at almost any season of the year. The game consists of elk, coyotes, wolves, deer, bears, etc. About three miles be- fore you reach the next station, you will notice off to the right of the track, a long, low, dark ridge. It is also covered with cedars, and it strikes the road near Bridger Station. There are also plenty of cedars in the bluffs to the left before you reach Carter, the next station, which is 904.6 miles from Omaha, and 6,550 feet above the sea. The station is named in honor of Col. Dick Carter, whose home is here, and who has lived here since the completion of the railroad. It is the nearest railroad station to Fort Bridger, which is located on Black's Fork, 11 miles due south, and reached by daily stages from this point. Colonel Carter is about to try the experi- ment of raising crops at this station. He has built a dam across the creek and dug a ditch nearly 2,000 feet long, which will irrigate the ground he proposes to till. Near Carter, also, one can hardly go amiss of moss agates and other curious specimens. About 20 miles a little north-west of this station, is a mountain of coal on a tributary of Little Muddy. In this mountain are found three splendid veins of coal, of total thickness of 87 feet, which can be traced over ten miles, also layers of slate 25 to 30 feet in depth. The coal resembles cannel coal, and makes excellent coke for smelting purposes. Seven miles north of Carter, a white sul- phur spring was discovered in the summer of 1875, whose waters will equal, if not surpass those of the celebrated springs of Virginia. Within about a hundred yards of these sulphur springs, and at the same time, a chalybeate spring was also discovered, but its waters have not yet been analyzed, though their medicinal qualities are said to be excellent. There is also, a fine fresh water spring near by. A branch railroad from Carter would pass these springs, and reach the mountain of coal in a dis- tance of 24 miles. Smith's Fork, a branch of Black's, is about five miles south of Fort Bridger, and Henry's Fork, of Green River, is some 25 miles still farther south, and is noted for its rich grazing. It is mostly occupied by stockmen as a winter range, and large numbers of cattle are annually win- tered without hay in its valley. Smith's and Henry's Forks are filled with trout, and afford fine fishing, while there is an abundance of game, such as elk, deer, antelope and bear to attract the hunter and sportsman. A plenty of sage hens give fine shooting in the summer months. Carter is a telegraph station, and has a store from which ranchemen, hunters, and others ob- tain supplies. It was formerly an eating-station on the road and was renowned for the splendid trout which were served up by Colonel Carter, who was its proprietor. A government road to Fort Ellis, Montana, and the Yellowstone Park, has been surveyed from this station by way of Bear River Valley and the Soda Springs in Idaho. It is some 80 miles nearer than by Ogden or Corinne, over a fine route, and will probably be opened in a year or two. Uridger, 914.1 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 6,780 feet. It is a telegraph station named in honor of Jim Bridger, who was a noted hunter and guide, for government and other ex- peditions. Since leaving Bryan, we have been going up hill all the time, and our ascent will now be rapid until we pass the divide between Piedmont and Aspen. The country is exceed- ingly broken and rough on each side of the track, while the valley of the Big Muddy narrows up, as we approach the summit. Leroy, is the next station. It is 919.1 miles from Omaha, and 7,123 feet above the level of the sea. In passing over only five miles of road, we have ascended nearly 350 feet. Leaving this place, you will observe old telegraph poles still standing on the left of the track. They mark the line of the old overland road. About two miles west of Leroy, at the base of a hill or bluff, south of the track, are some excellent Soda Springs. They are near the road, and trains sometimes stop to enable passengers to drink the water. In 1875, an emigrant train stopped at these springs a few minutes, when one of the passengers, on the way to the springs, picked up a most beautiful moss agate, in which there were six clearly defined, conical shaped trees, each one perfect in shape and form. The hills and val- leys in this vicinity continue to abound in agates and other curious specimens, while soda, iron and fresh water springs, are numerous, some- times in close proximity to each other. Piedmont. Here the road, after crossing it, leaves the Muddy, which comes in from the south. This station is ten miles from Leroy, 929.1 miles from Omaha, and has an elevation of 108 7,540 feet. In summer, the scenery along this part of the road is delightful, while in winter the storms are severe, the wind blowing almost a constant gale, while the snow drifts mountains high. There are several snow sheds along this part of the road, the longest being on the sum- mit, 2,700 feet in length. The road having to wind around the spurs and into the depressions of the hills, is very crooked, in one place doub- ling back on itself. We are now crossing a high ridge in the Uintah Mount- ains, and the second highest elevation on the Union Pacific. Off to the left these mountains in higher, grand- er forms, lift their summits toward the clouds, and are most always covered with snow, while their sides are lined with dark green the col- or of the pine forests, which partially envel- op them. While the road was be- ing built, large quantities o f ties, telegraph poles and bridge timber,were cut on the Foot Hills, near these mountains, and delivered to the company. About two miles north- west of Pied- mont, is a won- derful Soda Spring. The sediment or de- posits Of this INTERIOR OF SNOW spring have built up a conical-shaped body with a basin on the top. In this basin the water appears, to a small extent, and has evidently sometime had a greater flow than at present ; but, as similar springs have broken out around the base of this cone, the pressure on the main spring has, doubt- less, been relieved, and its flow, consequently, lessened. The cone is about 15 feet high and is well worthy of a visit from the tourist. At Piedmont, the traveler will first observe the per- manent coal pits, built of stone and brick, which are used in this country for the manufacture of charcoal foi the smelting works of Utah. There are more of them at Hilliard and Evauston, and they will be more fully described then. Leaving Piedmont, the road makes a long curve, like a horse-shoe doubling on itself, and, finally, reaches the summit of the divide in a long snow shed, one of the longest on the road. Aspen, the next station, it is 938.5 miles from Omaha, and has a reported elevation of 7,835 feet. It is not a great distance only about two miles from the sum- mit. Evidences of change in the formation of the country are everywhere visi- ble, and the change affords a marked n lief to the weary mo- notony of the desolate plains over which we have passed. Down the grade we now pass rapidly, with high hills on either side of the track through a lovely valley, with an occasional fill, and through a deep cut, to the next station. Hilliard, a new station, opened for busi- ness in 1873. is 943.5 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 7,310 feet. The town owes its importance to the Hilliard Flume & Lumber Company, which has extensive property interests here, and in the vicinity. In approaching the town from Aspen, the road passes down a " draw " or ravine, through a cut on a curve, and near this place enters the Bear River Valley, one of the most beautiful, and so far as has been demon- strated, fertile valleys of the Rocky Mountains. Two things excite the curiosity of the traveler if he has never seen them before ; one is the coal pits, and the other is the elevated flume under SHEDS, U. P. R. R. 109 which trains of cars pass. This flume, built of timber and boards, is 24 miles long, and is 2,000 feet higher where it first takes the water from Bear River, than where it empties the same at Milliard. The greatest fall in any one mile is 320 feet. The timber which is brought to the station by this flume, is obtained in large amounts in the foot hills of the Uintah Mount- ains, or on the mountains themselves and is mostly pine. The saw-mill of the company, erected at tha head of this flume, has a capacity of 40,000 feet in 2i hours, with an engine of 40 h o r s e-p o w e r. Over 2,000,000 feet of lumber were consumed in the construc- tion of this flume, and its branches in the mountains. Through it cord- wood, lum- ber, ties and saw-logs are floated down to the railroad. The cord-wood is used for char- coal. You will observe the con- ical shaped pits in which it is made, near the railway track, on the right, as you pass west- ward. There are 29 pits or kilns at Hilli- a r d , nineteen small ones, and ten large ones. The small kilns require twenty- six cords of wood at a fill- ing, and the large ones forty cords. The small ones cost about .1750, each ; the large ones $900. These kilns consume 2,000 cords of wood per month, and produce 100,000 bushels of charcoal as a re- sult, in the same time. There are other kilns about nine miles south of the town, in active oper- ation. There are fine iron and sulphur springs within three-fourths of a mile of the station. The reddish appearance of the mountain we have just passed indicates the presence of iron in this vicinity in large quantities, and coal also begins to crop out in different places as we go down the valley. Bear River is renowned for its trout. They are caught south of the road in ROCK CUT, NEAR ASPEN. the mountain tributaries, and north of Evans- ton, in Bear Rmr Lake. Though the country has somewhat changed in appearance, and a dif- ferent formation has been entered upon, we have not passed the region of agates and gems, precious and otherwise. They are found in the vicinity of Hilliard, in large quantities, together with numerous petrifactions of bones, etc., with fossilized fish, shells, ferns and other materials. Twenty-five miles a little south-west of Hil- liard are found two sulphur mountains. The sulphur is nearly 90 per cent, pure, in inex- haustible quan- tities. The scenery of the Upper Bear River is rugged and grand. About 20 miles south of Hil- liard is a nat- u al fort which was taken pos- session of by a gang of horse thieves and cut- throats, under the lead of one Jack Watkins, a genuine front- ier ruffian, who, with his com- panions, for a long time re- sisted all at- tempts at cap- ture. The hills and mountains in this vicinity abound in game, and offer rare induce- ments to sports- m e n . The country around both Hilliard and Evanston is the natural home for bears, elk, deer, catamounts, lynx, wolves, coyotes, wolverines, beaver, mink, foxes, badgers, mountain lions, wild cats, jack rabbits, etc., grouse sage hens, quails and ducks in the spring and fall. Not far north of Evans- ton, on Bear River, is Bear Lake, ten miles in length, and from five to eight in breadth. The boundary line between Idaho and Utah passes directly across the lake from east to west. Sofia Sprinf/s. Farther north,at the Big Bend of Bear River, the most interesting group of soda springs known on the- Continent, occupy some six square miles. To those graced with steam vents, Fremont gave the name of Steamboat 110 Springs, from the noise they make like a low- pressure engine. Near by is a spring with an orifice brightly stained with a brilliant yellow coating of oxide of iron, from which the water is thrown up two feet. Independence Rock. This has long been a noted landmark, for travelers on the old over- land wagon route. Its base which borders the road is literally covered with names and dates, some of them even before Fremont's expedition crossed the Continent many more well knowrr. The Sweetwater River flows immediately along the southern end of it, and on the opposite side of the stream is another ridge similar to it, continuing from the south-west, which was once connected with it. It is a huge example of dis- integration ; its rounded form resembles an oblong hay-stack, with layers of rocks lapping over the top and sides of the mass. Thin layers another conspicuous landmark, the Twin Peaks, which really are but one high peak in the ridge, cleft down the centre, dividing it in two, nearly to the base. View in the Uintah Mountains. The view we give on page 80, is taken from Photo- graph Ridge, elevation, 10,829 feet, by the Hayden Exploring Expedition, and is one of the grandest and most perfect mountain views in the West. The traveler, as he passes rapidly through Echo and Weber Canons, and casually notices the chain of mountains at the south, can form no idea of their beauty and grandeur. Professor Hayden says of this view " In the fore- ground of our view is a picturesque group of the mountain pines. In the middle dis- tance, glimmering in the sunlight like a silver thread, is Black's Fork, meandering through grassy, lawn-like parks, the eye following it up INDEPENDENCE ROCK. have been broken off in part, and huge masses are scattered all around it. On some portions of the sides they lap down to the ground, with so gentle a descent that one can walk up to the top without difficulty. The rock has a circum- ference of 1,550 yards. The north end is 193 fet in height, and the opposite end, 167 feet, with a depression in the center of 75 feet. Devil's Gate on the Sweetwater. Follow- ing up the valley from Independence Rock, and five miles north, is another celebrated natural curiosity. The Devil's Gate, a canon which the Sweetwater River has worn through the Granite Ridge cutting it at right-angles. The walls are vertical, being about 350 feet high, and the dis- tance through is about 300 yards. The current of the stream through the gate is slow, finding its way among the fallen masses of rock, with gentle, easy motion, and pleasant murmur. Fifteen miles farther above tha Devil's Gate, is to its sources, among the everlasting snows of the summit ridge. The peaks or cones in the distance, are most distinctly stratified and ap- parently horizontal or nearly so, with their sum- mits far above the limits of perpetual snow, and from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the springs that rise from the streams below." Gilbert's Peak, is one of the highest peaks of the Uintah Mountain Range, named after General Gilbert of the U. S. A. It has near its summit a beautiful lake of 11,000 feet, and above this rises the peak abruptly 2,250 more. Total, 13,250 feet. Throughout these mountains are very many lakes, which gather among the rocks bordered with dense growth of spruce trees, and form a characteristic feature of the scenery. Bear River City. After leaving Hilliard, th Union Pacific Railroad. JOHN DUFF, ) Such were the telegraphic incidents that at- tended the completion of the greatest work of the age, but during these few expectant moments, the scene itself at Promontory Point, was very impressive. After the rival engines had moved up toward each other, a call was made for the people to stand back, in order that all might have a chance to see. Prayer was offered by Rev. Dr. Todd of Massachusetts. Brief remarks were then made by General Dodge and Governor Stanford. Three cheers were given for the Government of the United States, for the Rail- road, for the Presidents, for the Star Spangled Banner, for the Laborers, and for those respec- tively, who furnished the means. Four spikes were then furnished, two gold and tico silver, by Montana, Idaho, California, and Nevada. They were each about seven inches long, and a little larger than the iron spike. Dr. Harkness, of Sacramento, in presenting to Governor Stanford a spike of pure gold, delivered a short and appropriate speech. The Hon. F. A. Tritle, of Nevada, presented Dr. Durant with a spike of silver, saying : " To the iron of the East, and the gold of the West, Ne- vada adds her link of silver to span the Continent and weld the oceans." Governor Safford, of Arizona, presenting another spike, said : " Ribbed in iron, clad in silver, and crowned with gold, Arizona presents her offering to the enterprise that has banded the Conti- nent and welded the oceans." Dr. Durant stood on the north side of the tie, and Governor Stanford on the south side. At a given signal, these gentlemen struck the spikes, and at the same instant the electric spark was sent through the wires, east and west. The two locomotives moved up until they touched each other, and a bottle of wine was poured, as a liba- tion on the last rail. A number of ladies graced the ceremonies with their presence, and at 1 p. M., under an almost cloudless sky, and in the presence of x about one thousand one hundred people, the greatest railroad on earth was completed. A sumptuous repast was given to all the guests and railroad officers, and toward evening the trains each moved away and darkness fell upon the scene of joy and triumph. Immediately after the ceremonies, the laurel tie was removed for preservation, and in its place an ordinary one substituted. Scarcely had it been put in its place, before a grand advance was made upon it by the curiosity seekers and relic hunters and divided into numberless me- mentoes, and as fast as each tie was demolished and a new one substituted, this, too, shared the same fate, and probably within the first six months, there were used as many new ties. It is said that even one of the rails did not escape the grand battery of knife and hack, and the first one had soon to be removed to give place to another. A curious incident, connected with the laying of the last rails, has been little noticed hitherto. Two lengths of rails, 56 feet, had been omitted. The Union Pacific people brought up their pair of rails, and the work of placing them was done by Europeans. The Central Pacific people then laid their pair of rails, the labor being performed by Mongolians. The foremen, in both cases, were Americans. Here, near the center of the great American Continent, were representatives of Asia, Europe and America America directing and controlling. It is somewhat unfortunate that all the scenes which characterize this place of meeting are passed over by the railroad trains at night, and travelers can not catch even a glimpse. Leaving Promontory, a sugar-loaf peak rises on our right, and. as we near it, the lake again comes into view, looking like a green meadow in the distance. About three miles west of the station, on the left side of the track, a sign-board has been erected, stating that 10 miles of track were here laid in one day. Ten miles farther west a similar sign-board appears. This track was laid on the 29th of April, 1869, and, so far as known, is the largest number of miles ever laid in one day. (For a full description, see page 8.) Rozel, an unimportant station, -where trains meet and pass ; but passenger trains do not stop unless signaled. The lake can now be seen for a long distance, and in a clear day, with a good glass, the view is magnificent. Still crossing a sage brush plain, with occasional alkali patches, closing in upon the shore at times, we soon ar- rive at Lake. There is an open plain to the north of these two stations, and north of Rozel espe- cially, are salt wells. Between these two stations the second sign-board close to the track, showing the western limit of the 10 miles of track laid in one day, is seen. North of Lake Station about three miles, are Cedar Springs, which was quite a place during the construction of the road, and a great deal of wood, etc., was obtained near them, for use of the road. Leaving this station we pass across flats and marshes, with the old Union Pacific grade still well preserved, on our left. In places, however, it is partially washed away by the waves of the lake. Next comes Monument, 804 miles from San Francisco ; 167 SALT LAKE FROM MONUMENT POINT. elevation, 4,227 feet. An isolated rock rises, like a monument, in the lake on the left, while the hill on the right is crowned with turrets and projecting domes. You have here a grand view of the lake, its islands and shores, with promon- tories, etc., which is correctly represented by our artist. The station itself is a mere side track and " Y," for the convenience of the road. When the strong south wind blows, the waves, dashing against the rocks on the shore, and the rolling white caps in the distance, form a beauti- ful view which the tourist, after passing the dreary waste, will appreciate. The road now turns to the right, and the view of the lake is shut out by a low hill that intervenes. On the west side of this hill are the Locomotive Springs which puff out steam at times, and which give them their name. A Mormon brother has a ranche at the springs, and seems to enjoy life as best he can with three wives. The Overfloiv of the Great Salt Lake Another theory as to its outlet. Parties who profess to be well posted as to the nature of the country surrounding this great body of salt water, do not agree with the views elsewhere ex- pressed, that in case its rise continues, its waters will flow into the Humboldt River. They assert that north of Monument Rock is an extensive arm of the lake, now dry, and that the divide between the northern extremity of this arm and the Raft River, a tributary of Snake River, is not more than from 50 to 75 feet high ; and that, if the lake rises, this divide will be washed out or a channel may be cut through it into Raft .^s^~' MONUMENT POINT FROM SALT LAKE. River, and the surplus waters of the lake thus drained into the Pacific Ocean, through the Snake and Columbia Rivers. Next we pass Seco, which is an unimportant station in the midst of sage plains, and soon arrive at Kelton, 790 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,223 feet. There have been no very heavy grades between this and Promontory. The town is located at the north-west corner of Salt Lake, and about two miles from it, with low marshes and sloughs intervening. This is a stage station, and passengers for Boise City and other points in Idaho, and points in Oregon as far as Dalles, will here leave the train and secure seats in the coaches of the stage line. The ship- ping of freight for Idaho, and the fact that it is the terminus of the stage line, are the principal causes for the growth and business of this place. It has a fair hotel, several stores, the usual num- ber of saloons, and corrals for stock used in freighting. In 1875, 6,000,000 pounds of freight were shipped from this place to Idaho, or about 3,000 tons. The freighting business has grad- ually increased from year to year, and will con- tinue to do so as the mines of the Territory are developed, and until the Portland, Dalles and Salt Lake Railroad is pushed forward into the Ter/ritory. Seven miles north of the town, at the foot of the mountains, are springs of clear, fresh water, from which water is conveyed for the use of the railroad and inhabitants. There is a good deal of stock grazed in the vicinity of this station, which feed on sage brush in the winter and such grass as they get, but find 168 good grazing in the summer. The surplus cattle are shipped to the markets on the Pacific Coast. Tourists will also bear in mind, that this is the station nearest to the great Shoshone Falls. These falls are 110 miles from Kelton. Passen- gers from the east will arrive at about 10 o'clock p. M., and stay all night. Passengers from the west will ai-rive at about two o'clock A. M. The next morning they will take the stage run by the North-western Stage Company, 100 miles to Rock Creek Station, which are made over good roads in twelve hours. Here you will stay over night, and take a team the next morn- ing for the falls ; distance ten miles over a lava plain, with stinted sage brush. No sign of the great falls is seen, until you reach a point one mile from them, when they suddenly burst upon the eye with a grandeur and magnificence truly bewildering. Travelers to the main falls can reach them on foot very easily from the upper ridge. It will abundantly repay visitors to go to the edge of the river, and contemplate their silent grandeur. A pathway or trail leads from the point where wagons stop, and the distance is about one mile. The Great Shoshone Falls. BY CLARENCE KING. In October, 1868, with a small detachment of a United States Geological Survey, the writer crossed the Goose Creek Mountains, in northern Utah, and descended by the old Fort Boise Road to the level of the Snake Plain. After camp and breakfast, at Rock Creek, mounting in the sad- dle we headed toward the Canon of the Shoshone. The air was cold and clear. The remotest mountain peaks upon the horizon could be dis- tinctly seen, and the forlorn details of their brown slopes stared at us as through a vacuum. A few miles in front, the smooth surface of the plain was broken by a ragged, zigzag line of black, which marked the edge of the farther wall of the Snake Canon. A dull, throbbing sound greeted us. Its pulsations were deep and seemed to proceed from the ground beneath our feet. Leaving the cavalry to bring up the wagon, my two friends and I galloped on, and were quickly upon the edge of the canon wall. We looked down into a broad, circular excavation, three- quarters of a mile in diameter, and nearly seven hundred feet deep. East and north, over the edges of the canon, we looked across miles and miles of the Snake Plain, far on to the blue boundary mountains. The wall of the gorge opposite us, like the cliff at our feet, sank in perpendicular bluffs, nearly to the level of the river. A horizon as level as the sea; a circling wall, whose sharp edges were here and there bat- tlemented in huge, fortress-like masses ; a broad river, smooth and unruffled, flowing quietly into the middle of the scene, and then plunging into a labyrinth of rocks, tumbling over a precipice two hundred feet high, and flowing westward in a still, deep current, disappear behind a black promontory. Where the river flowed around the western promontory, it was wholly in shadow, and of a deep sea-green. A scanty growth of coniferous trees fringed the brink of the lower cliffs, overhanging the river. Dead barrenness is the whole sentiment of the scene. My tent was pitched upon the edge of a cliff, directly overhanging the rapids. From my door I looked over the edge of the falls, and, when- ever the veil of mist was blown aside, I could see for a mile down the river. At the very brink of the fall a few twisted evergreens cling with their roots to the rock, and lean over the abyss of foam with something of that air of fatal fascination which is apt to take possession of men. In plan, the fall recurves up-stream in a deep horseshoe, resembling the outline of Niagara. The total breadth is about seven hundred feet, and the greatest height of a single fall about one hundred and ninety. Among the islands above the brink are several beautiful cascades, where portions of the river pour over in lace-like forms. The whole mass of the fall is one ever-varying sheet of spray. In the early spring, when swollen by the rapidly melted snows, the river pours over with something like the grand volume of Niag- ara, but at the time of my visit, it was wholly white foam. The river below the falls is very deep. The right bank sinks into the water in a clear, sharp precipice, but on the left side a nar- row, pebbly beach extends along the foot of the cliff. From the top of the wall, at a point a quarter of a mile below the falls, a stream has gradually worn a little stairway down to the river : thick growths of evergreens have huddled together in this ravine. Under the influence of the cool shadow of the cliffs and the pines, and constant percolating of surface-waters, a rare fer- tility is developed in the ravines opening upon the shore of the canon. A luxuriance of ferns and mosses, an almost tropical wealth of green leaves and velvety carpeting line the banks. There are no rocks at the base of the fall. The sheet of foam plunges almost vertically into a dai'k, beryl-green, lake-like expanse of the river. Immense volumes of foam roll up from the cata- ract-base, and, whirling about in the eddying winds, rise often a thousand feet into the air. When the wind blows down the canon, a gray mist obscures the river for half a mile; and when, as is usually the case in the afternoon, the breezes blow eastward, the foam-cloud curls over the brink of the fall, and hangs like a veil over the upper river. The incessant roar, reinforced by a thousand echoes, fills the canon. From out this monotone, from time to time, rise strange, wild sounds, and now and then may be heard a slow, measured beat, not unlike the recurring fall of breakers. From the white front of the cata- 170 ract the eye constantly wanders up to the black, frowning parapet of lava. The actual edge is usually formed of irregular blocks and prisms of lava, poised upon their ends in an unstable equi- librium, ready to be tumbled over at the first leverage of the frost. Hardly an hour passes without the sudden boom of one of those rock- masses falling upon the ragged debris piled below. After sleeping on the nightmareish brink of the falls, it was no small satisfaction to climb out of the Dantean gulf and find myself once more upon a pleasantly prosaic foreground of sage. Nothing more effectually banishes the melotragic state of the mind than the obtrusive ugliness and abominable smell of this plant. From my feet a hundred miles of it stretched eastward. A half-hour's walk took me out of sight of the canon, and as the wind blew west- ward, only occasional, indistinct pulsations of the fall could be heard. I walked for an hour, following an old Indian trail which occasionally approached within see- ing distance of the river, and then, apparently quite satisfied, diverged again into the desert. When about four miles from the Shoshone, it bent abruptly to the north, and led to the edge of the canon. Here again the narrow gorge widened into a broad theater, surrounded as before by black, vertical walls, and crowded over its whole surface by rude piles and ridges of volcanic rock. The river entered it from the east through a magnificent gateway of basalt, and, having reached the middle, flows on either side of a low, rocky island, and plunges in two falls into a deep, green basin. A very singular ridge of the basalt projects like an arm almost across the river,.inclosing within its semi-circle a bowl three hundred feet in diameter and two hundred feet deep. Within this the water was of the same peculiar beryl-green, dappled here and there by masses of foam which swim around and around with a spiral tendency toward the center. To the left of the island half the river plunges off an over- hanging lip, and falls about 150 feet, the whole vol- ume reaching the surface of the basin many feet from the wall. The other half of the river has worn away the edge, and descends in a tumbling cascade at an angle of about forty-five degrees. The cliffs around the upper cataract are infe- rior to those of the Shoshone. While the level of the upper plain remains nearly the same, the river constantly deepens the channel in its west- ward course. By dint of hard climbing I reached the actual brink in a few places, and saw the canon succes- sively widening and narrowing, its walls here and there approaching each other and standing like the pillars of a gateway; the river alter- nately flowing along smooth, placid reaches of level, and then rushing swiftly down rocky cas- cades. Here and there along the cliff are dis- closed the mouths of black caverns, where the lava seems to have been blown up in the form of a great blister, as if the original flow had poured over some pool of water, and the hot rock, con- verting it into steam, had been blown up bubble- like by its immense expansion. I continued my excursions along the canon to the west of the Shoshone. About a mile below the fall, a very fine promontory juts sharply out from the wall, and projects nearly to the middle of the canon. Climbing with difficulty along its toppling crest, I reached a point which I found composed of immense, angular fragments piled up in danger- ous poise. Looking eastward, the battlemented rocks around the falls limited the view ; but westward I could see down long reaches of river, where islands of trachyte rose above white cas- cades. A peculiar and fine effect is noticeable upon the river during all the midday. The shadow of the southern cliff is cast down here and there, completely darkening the river, but often defining itself upon the water. The con- trast between the rich, gem-like green of the sun- lit portions and the deep-violet shadow of the cliff is of extreme beauty. The Snake River, deriving its volume wholly from the melting of the mountain snows, is a direct gauge of the an- nual advance of the sun. In June and July it is a tremendous torrent, carrying a full half of the Columbia. From the middle of July it con- stantly shrinks, reaching its minimum in mid- winter. At the lowest, it is a river equal to the Sacramento or Connecticut. Near the "City of Rocks " Station, in the Goose Creek Mountains, are found the " Giant Rocks," and over the little rise is the place that gives the name to the station. Dotting the plains are thousands of singular rocks, on which the weary pilgrims of 1849, have written their names in cart-grease paint. The old Cali- fornia road is still seen, but now overgrown with rank weeds. The view as you descend from the summit is sublime. Far away in the distance loom up the Salmon River Mountains, distant 125 miles, and in the intervening space winds the valley of the Snake River. Kelton has from 250 to 300 inhabitants, nearly all supported by the Idaho trade, though it will eventually have some mining trade, as the recent discovery of mines in the Black Pine District, 25 miles north, will have an influence in this direc- tion. Kelton is the nearest railroad station to these mines, and parties desiring to visit them will leave the cars here. Idaho Territory. This is one of the smallest of the Territories, as now constituted, and claims a population of about 15,000 people. There are three public lines of conveyance which lead into the Territory, or rather two, as one of them passes entirely through it. The stage line from Kelton passes the City of Rocks, and 171 within ten miles of the Great Shoshone Falls, to Dalles in Oregon, by way of Boise City, 250 miles out ; thence to Baker City, Oregon, 400 miles ; to Union, 435 miles ; to La Grande, 450 miles ; to Unatilla, 510 miles, and to Walla Walla, 530 miles. At Boise City the line connects with stages for Idaho City, Centerville, Placerville and Silver City. Boise City is the territorial capital, a city said to contain 3,500 people, and located on the Boise River. There is not much agri- cultural land in the Territory, but a few of the valleys are cultivated and produce excellent crops of wheat, barley and oats, with potatoes and all kinds of vegetables. Crops are raised by are quite a large number of Chinese in the Ter- ritory, mostly engaged in placer and gulch min- ing. They are industrious and frugal and will frequently make money from claims that have been abandoned as worthless by white men. So far as developed, the Territory has some rich mines, and those in the Atlantic District are be- coming somewhat noted. It is claimed that the richest known gold mine in the country at pres- ent, is in this district. In addition to the sup- plies, etc., shipped from Winnemucca, over 6,000,000 pounds of freight were shipped from Kelton Station to this Territory in 1875, and more than this amount will be shipped the pres- VIEW LOOKING DOWN THE SHOSHONE FALLS. irrigation. Boise Valley, the settled portion of it, is about 60 miles long and four miles wide, and is the most thickly settled of any of the valleys in the Territory. The nights are so cool and the altitude of the valleys is so great that ex- periments in corn raising have not, thus far, turned out very well. The second line of public conveyance spoken of, runs from Winnemucca to Silver City. It is claimed that this town is equal in popu- lation to Boise City. It is sustained by the mines located near it. At Rattlesnake Station there is also a connecting stage line for Rocky Bar, a mining camp, near which placer and gulch diggings have been discovered. There ent year. Much of it has been, and will be, mining machinery. A railroad through the Ter- ritory is much needed, will aid greatly in the development of its mines, and will be a paying investment from the start, or, at least, in a very short time after its completion. The Snake and Salmon Rivers are among its principal streams. The Snake River rises in the mountains of the Yellowstone Region, and flows entirely through the Territory from east to west, and forms one of the tributaries to the Columbia River of Oregon. The scenery along its valley is varied, but in some places is grand. Idaho also has immense ranges where a large number of cattle are grazed both winter and summer, without hay. The stock 172 interest is rapidly becoming one of the principal features of the Territory. Its future prosperity, however, depends largely upon the development of its mining interests. Leaving Kelton, the road soon turns to the left, and, rising a heavy grade, reaches the divide be- tween the Great Salt Lake and the valley beyond. The mountains for a distance are on our right, while, from the left, a magnificent view of the western arm of the lake can be obtained. Be- tween the road and the lake are extensive salt plains, which in the sun glisten like burnished silver, while beyond are the green waters of this inland sea. Going up this grade, you will notice a ledge of rocks on the left side of the track, the lower end of which has been tunneled by the wind, forming a natural aperture like an open arch. We soon turn to the right, leave the lake behind us and wind along the side of the mount- ain. A dreary salt marsh or alkali plain is now seen on the left, and the low, isolated hill on the shore, which for a time obscured our vision is passed, giving us another view of the lake in the distance, and the mountains of the Wahsatch and Oquirrh Ranges beyond, as far as the eye can reach. Passing through a rocky cut from a projecting spur of the range we are passing, and looking to the right, a beautiful conical dome rises up, as a grim sentinel to guard the way. Ontbey, simply a side track in the midst of a heavy gravel cut, 778 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,721 feet. At Kelton we were but little above the elevation of Salt Lake, 4,223 feet, and we are 500 feet higher here than when we left that place, the distance be- tween the two being about 11 miles. From the frequent views of the Great American Desert which the traveler can obtain while passing over this portion of the road, he can form some idea of its utter barrenness and desolation, and the great sufferings of those who have attempted to cross it without adequate preparation,- and the consequent burning thirst they and their animals have endured. Matlin, only a side track, 768 miles from San Francisco ; elevation, 4,597 feet. Terrace, a railroad town on the edge of the Great American Desert. It is 757 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,544 feet. Here is a ten-stall roundhouse, and the machine and repair shops of the Salt Lake Division of the Central Pacific Railroad. Mr. R. H. Pratt, with headquarters at Ogden, is Superintendent of this Division, which extends from that place to Toano in Nevada. The town has about 300 people, which includes not only the railroad men and their families, but those who are here for the purpose of trade and traffic with them. The water tank here, as at a good many stations on this road, is supplied with water brought through pipes from the springs in the mountains. The town has two or three stores, saloons and an eating-house, where railroad men and emi- grants take their meals. It depends wholly on its local trade at present ; but the discovering and opening of the Rosebud Mines, about 10 miles north, will tend to increase its business, if they are developed. Terrace is the railroad sta- tion for the mines in the Newfoundland District, some 18 miles south. Miners for either of the above named districts, will leave the cars at this station. There are no stage lines to them, as yet, but private conveyances can be readily ob- tained. The desert with its dreary loneliness a barren waste still continues. Leaving Terrace we have over 20 miles of straight road over which we soon pass. A spur of the Goose Creek Range of Mountains puts down on our right, while Silver Islet Mountain rises out of the alkali plain on our left, and Pilot's Peak, one of the lofty mountains of Nevada, and a noted landmark for many a weary pilgrim across the desert, looms up in the south- west. Bovine, an unimportant station, with side track for the convenience of passing trains, 747 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,347 feet. On our right are broken mountains, while there is an isolated peak one side of which seems to have settled away from the other, leav- ing it very rough and ragged. Next we come to Lucin, 734 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,486 feet above the sea. Be- yond Lucin, a short distance, we strike Grouse Creek, which rises in the hills north. This creek usually sinks in the sandy desert, and no water in it crosses the railroad, except in the spring when the snows are melting. On the right, east of the hills, and north of Lucin about 4 1-2 miles, are the Owl Springs which have an abundance of water. As we enter the pass in this low range of hills, we lose sight of Silver Islet Mountains, and the range close to the track is called the Pilot Range, or by the miners, Buel Range, after Buel City. Leaving Grouse Creek on our right, the road leads to the left again, and we enter the Thousand Spring Valley. It virtually unites with the Grouse Valley, though its waters usu- ally sink in the sand before they reach those of the creek mentioned. As we near Tecoma, the traveler will notice a small granite monument on the left side of the track, near the summit of the grade, supported by a heap of stones. This mon- ument marks the Nevada State line and passing it, we enter the land of the " big bonanzas." Tecoma, Nevada, 724 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,812 feet. This is the nearest railroad station to the celebrated Tecoma Mines, one owned by Rowland & Aspinwall of New York, and the other owned by a London company, both mines bearing the same name. Tecoma is the railroad station for Lucin Mining District, and stages leave here every morning for Buel City, the mining town 173 of the district, six miles south, in the foot hills of the range. It is the nearest railroad station also, to the Deep Creek District, 90 miles due south. The Goose Creek and Delano Districts have recently been opened about 35 miles north of this place and are said to contain rich pros- pects. The formation, however, is very much broken, and affords strong evidences of a mighty upheaval sometime. Within a mile or two of the town, north, a good view of the Thousand Spring Valley is obtained with its pasturage and hay lands. Tecoma has two or three stores, saloon, dwellings, etc., and will soon have a smelting works. It has a population of from 50 to 100 ; and the most of its business is with the mines and cattle men. Stock-yards convenient for shipping cattle have been erected here. There is a fine grazing country off to the north, where large herds of cattle are kept, and this has come to be a prominent business of this part of the country. As we approach Tecoma, on our left a bluff peak with perpendicular walls closes the northern end of Pilot Range, while Pilot Peak towers up to the heavens at the southern extremity. It is 20 miles from Tecoma to the base of this peak, though it does not seem half that distance. Tecoma is also the railroad station for the Silver Islet Mining District, and if the mines in its immediate vicinity are developed, it will become a place of considerable impor- tance. Leaving Tecoma the railroad continues over a sage brush and greasewood plain to the left of the valley, with a part of the old Union Pacific grade on the right, and as we approach the next range of hills or mountains, we have a fine broadside view of grand old Pilot Peak, and do not wonder at its prominence, or the great re- gard in which it was held by the emigrants across this dreary desert. Motitello, 715 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,010 feet. At this station is a large water-tank supplied with water from a spring in the mountains on the right, some ten miles away. The mountain ranges this side of Ogden run from north to south, parallel with each other, and the railroad crosses them over low divides or passes, while the plains of the desert lay between them. To our right a point of the Pequop Range approaches the track, and shuts out our view of the Old Pilot, as we pass up the grade, and into the narrow defile. It is generally understood that the mines of the Pilot Range are quite extensive, and that the ore, though of rather low grade, is nevertheless to be found in large quantities and is quite ac- cessible. Buel City has a smelter erected which has reduced considerable ore. Loray, nearly on the summit of the divide. It is 704 miles from San Francisco, with an ele- vation of about 5,960 feet. It is a station of no particular importance to travelers. Wood and timber, cut in the mountains for the use of the road, is delivered here. Toano, 698 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,973 feet the western terminus of the Salt Lake Division of the Central Pacific, and nearly 183 miles from Ogden. Toano has a roundhouse with six stalls and an adjoining shed where two engines can be sheltered. It has the usual side tracks, coal-sheds and build- ings for the transaction of the business of the company. The town has about 250 people. The following mining districts are tributary to this place, and transact the most of their busi- ness here : Silver Zone, distant 20 miles, mines mostly milling ore ; Dolly Varden, 55 miles ; Cherry Creek, 100 miles ; Egan Canon, 105 miles; Shellburn, 110 miles; Mineral City, 130 miles ; Ward, 140 miles. They are all south of the railroad, and connected with Toano by a good wagon road, though there are no mails car- ried by this route. A great deal of freight is carried to the mines, and ore and bullion hauled back. The road is destitute of water for a consid- erable part of the way, and wells, at a great ex- pense, have been dug in some places, from which water is sold to freighters. The ore from some of the mines in these districts is very rich. Twenty cars of ore from the Paymaster Mine in the Ward District were shipped from here in January, 1876, nineteen of which averaged about $800 per ton, and one car averaged a little over $1,000 per ton, net. Not only the Ward, but others in this region are regarded as prosperous mining camps. In 1875, from 800 to 1,000 tons of base bullion were shipped from this place, the product of these mines. The valleys south have good ranges for stock, and some of them, as the Steptoe Valley, produce excellent crops of small grain and vegetables. The Toano Range of Mountains runs from north to south, and heads near this place. On the road to Pioche, about 180 miles from Toano, and about half a mile from the road, is the Mammoth Cave of Nevada. It has been partially explored, but its extent is not known. Beautiful specimens of stalactites and crystals have been found here, and the tourist would be highly interested in a visit to this cave, which in a short time must become a place of public resort. North of Toano, the Goose Creek Range of Mountains, which divides Goose Creek and Thou- sand Spring Valley, are plainly visible. The Sal- mon Falls copper mines, on Salmon Falls River, are about 60 miles north, and are known to be rich in copper. Abput 20 miles south of the town, a road to the Deep Creek Mining District branches off from the Pioche road, and part of the business of that mining camp is done here. The country imme- diately around Toano is barren and desolate in appearance not very inviting to the traveler or settler. 174 On leaving Toano we have an up grade to Moore's Station, about 30 miles. In the winter great difficulty is experienced with snow over this distance, and in the summer the route is ex- tremely beautiful and picturesque. Just west of the town, on the right, the low hills are covered with a scattering growth of scrub pines and ce- dars. The Pequop Range juts up to the town on the south, while on the north may still be seen the mountains of the Goose Creek Range. The road between this point and Wells is undu- lating, and full of short curves and heavy grades. Six snow sheds are passed, in rapid succession. As we look off to the right, the hill seems to de- scend into a large valley, with a range of mount- ains beyond. It is a dry, sage brush valley and continues in sight until we pass Independence. JPequop, 689 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 6,184 feet. It is simply a side track, at which passenger trains do not stop. Passing this, we next reach the Otego telegraph station, which is only used in winter, to give no- tice of snow-blocked trains, etc. Dead Man's Sprint/. About five miles from Pequop, in the low hills off to the right of the track, is a spring which bears the above sug- gestive title. In the spring of 1873, the body of a dead man was found near it, with a bullet hole through his skull. The decomposition of the body had advanced so far that it was past recognition, and the questions as to who he was, and how he came to be killed, were not likely to be solved. In short, the man and his tragic end were wrapped in great mystery. The old adage, however, that " murder will out," was again veri- fied in this case. It seems that a large drove of cattle came into this region of country, in the fall of 1872, and that two of the herders em- ployed one a Mexican, and the other a white man, were paid off near Wells, and started back for Colorado, where they were first employed. They camped together one night at this spring, and the next morning one was left cold and stark upon the bosom of mother earth, while the other, the Mexican, went on and in due time arrived in Denver, Col. He had murdered his companion, robbed him of his money, his watch and his horse, and with his plunder, with no one to witness the deed, thought himself se- cure. But a brother of the murdered man lived in Denver, and hearing nothing from the absent one for a long time, became somewhat alarmed about him, and began to institute inquiries and to search for his companion. His efforts were soon rewarded, and in a short time he heard that the Mexican, who was known to have accom- panied his brother in driving the herd to Neva- da, had returned, and had been seen in Denver. Furthermore, it was supposed that he had not left that city, and could be found somewhere in its immediate vicinity. His trail was finally struck, and followed until he was found. His account of the missing man was so confused, and his different stories so conflicting and improb- able, that he was arrested and searched. The search revealed the watch and other trinkets of the murdered man, which were at once recognized by his brother. His horse was also found. The Mexican, now thoroughly suspected, was closely questioned, and the evidence against him was so strong, that, while confined in jail, he confessed the crime. This so exasperated the friends of the murdered man that they determined upon vengeance, and immediately organized to secure the death of the culprit. The villain was taken from his cell in the jail one night, and found the next morning hanging to a telegraph pole. Thus was the spring named. Otego, station and side track, which is 688 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 6,154 feet. The tourist may enjoy a magnificent view of hills and mountains, valleys and dales, as we pass on over some of the reverse curves in the road. The old Union Pacific grade is still seen in patches, on our right. Pequop Range, with Independence Valley, now looms grandly into view on our left, as we arrive at Independence, 676 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 6,007 feet. We are now crossing a low divide between the valley on our right, above spoken of, and Independence Valley on our left. This station is on a heavy down grade, and trains going west seldom stop. The water tank is supplied from springs in the low hills off to the right, and the side track is a little beyond it. We now pass to the right around an isolated mountain that seems to guard the entrance to Independence Valley, and then to the left, and as we turn to enter the pass in the mountains a lovely view of this beau- tiful valley is again obtained stretching away as far as the eye can reach. It is a great stock range, and thousands of cattle annually feed upon its rich nutritious grasses. Turning again to the right we enter what is called Cedar Pass. Passing a section-house at which there is a win- ter telegraph station for use of snow-bound trains, we soon reach the summit of the divide between Independence Valley, and the valley of the Hum- boldt, at Moore's, 669 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 6,166 feet. It was formerly quite a town for wood-choppers and frontier men, when the railroad was being built; but its glory has departed and the stakes and posts of a few houses are all that remain to mark the spot. Down the grade we go into the far-famed Humboldt Valley, passing Cedar, a side track, where a camp of wood-choppers in the mount- ains on our left, deliver their wood. Wells, 661 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,629 feet. Just as we enter the town, we pass the mountain spur on our 'left, and Clover Valley bursts into view. Its name 175 is significant as it abounds in the natural clover so well known in the Eastern States. The town has about 100 inhabitants, with roundhouse for three engines, a hotel, stores, saloon, etc. The railroad water tank formerly supplied with water pumped from the wells, a little west of the town, is now rilled from a mountain spring four miles away. Humboldt Wells as they are called, give celeb- rity to this place. They are really springs about thirty in number, situated mostly in a low basin half a mile west of the station. There are no evidences of volcanic action about them as we could perceive, nor does a crater in this low place seem at all probable. They are very probably natural springs and from the nature of the porous soil around them, they do not rise and flow away as similar springs do in a more com- pact soil. The water, by residents here, is not considered brackish at all, nor is it particularly warm, though the springs have never been known to freeze over. They are also called bottomless, but no accurate knowledge has yet been published in regard to their depth. They are simply deep springs, but the opinion is here entertained that a lead and line would soon touch bottom in them. It was the great water- ing place in times of the old emigrant travel, and at least three of these roads converged to this point and united here. These were the Grass Creek, the Thousand Spring Valley and the Cedar Pass Roads. Emigrants in those days al- ways rejoiced when they had passed the perils of the Great American Desert, and arrived at these springs where there was plenty of water, pure and sweet and an abundance of grass for their weary and worn animals. Hence it was a favor- ite camping ground. Visitors approaching these springs in the summer, and springing on the sod can fairly shake the adjoining springs, a fact that leads to the opinion entertained by some, that they are really openings of a lake, which has been gradually covered over by the accumu- lation of grass and grass roots and other luxu- riant vegetation, which abounds along and around the basin. The fact that the ground around these springs is so elastic, and the known incidents in history, where luxuriant vegetation has frequently caused islands in rivers and lakes, confirms this opinion in our mind, and we be- lieve a thorough investigation will establish this theory as correct. There is then in this basin simply a covered lake, and the springs are open- ings to it. The conformation of the land around the basin also tends to convince us of the truth of this theory. The basin is the receptacle of the drainage of a large water-shed, and there are high mountains nearly all around it. These springs abound in fish the little minnows that are so common in the brooks and small streams in the Eastern States. Other kinds there may be, but these only have been caught. The apertures differ in size, and the openings to some are much larger than the openings in others. If they were on a side-hill every body would call them springs, but inasmuch as they are in a low basin, they are called wells. Their depth and surroundings also convey this im- pression. Mr. Hamill, a merchant of Wells, says that he took a piece of railroad iron and tied some lariat ropes to it (about 160 feet), and could find no bottom in the deepest springs which he sounded with that length of rope. He further says that a government exploring party, under command of Lieutenant Cuppinger, visited Wells in 1870 and took soundings of the springs to a depth of from 1,500 to 1,700 feet and found no bottom. These soundings were of the largest springs or wells, and while his statement may be true, even soundings to this depth does not render them bottomless. How to see them and know where they are, is the next thing of consequence to the traveler. As you pass west of the station, notice the end of a piece of the old Union Pacific grade ; next the graves surrounded by painted fences ; then off to the right a heap of stones, where the en- gine-house was built the engine being used to force water from the well, which is just beyond this heap of stones, to the tank along side of the track. The heavy growth of grass around the place will indicate where this well is in sum- mer, and the accumulated deposits of this grass has raised a little rim around this particular well, and the same is true of others in its im- mediate vicinity. Travelers will take notice that a mail and ex- press stage line leaves Wells tri-weekly Mon- days, Wednesdays and Fridays in the morning, for Sprucemont, 40 miles, and Cherry Creek, 95 miles distant. At Cherry Creek this line con- nects with stages for Egan Canon, on the line of the old overland stage route, Mineral City (Rob- inson District) and Hamilton, the county-seat of White Pine County. At Mineral City, convey- ances can be easily obtained for Ward's District, 20 miles distant. The Spruce Mountain Mining District is said to contain some very good mines, and a company has recently been organized in San Francisco, to continue the work of develop- ment. Sprucemont is the mining town of the district, and is beautifully located on an elevated bench in the midst of groves of pines and cedars. It has a population of from 50 to 100, according to the season. There are estimated to be about 40 ranches in Clovev Valley, and as many in Ruby Valley. These ranchemen are engaged in agriculture and stock growing. They raise wheat, barley, oats, and splendid vegetables. Wells has extensive stock-yards, to accommodate the large shipments of cattle, annually made from these ranches. The valley in this immediate vicinity is the 176 scene of the annual " round-ups," every spring. Cedar Pass Range is the range on our left, as we come through by Moore's Station. West of this range and south of Wells, is Clover Valley. The tourist will see " Castle Peak " on the further side of this valley as the train pauses at the station, and this peak is on the northern end of Ruby Range, and it is always covered with snow. Ruby Valley is nearly due south of the " Castle " which you see in the mountain, and is divided from Clover Valley by a spur of this range, which turns into it like a hook. Ruby Range is about 150 miles long, and we only see its north- ern extremity at Wells. North of Wells, across the first range, lies the Thousand Spring Valley then across another low divide, you will strike a valley whose waters flow north-west through the Columbia River, to the Pacific Ocean. Fishermen will bear in mind that salmon trout are caught in this valley in the spring of the year. The stream is a branch of the Salmon Falls River, which empties into Snake River, about 120 miles north of this station. A proposed railroad has been talked of, to con- nect this point with Callville, on the Colorado River, and the route is said to be very feasible. Wells is also the connecting point for a direct " cut off " to Salt Lake City, should such a road be built. It may be well to remark here, that the mount- ain ranges in Nevada, as in Utah, generally ex- tend from north to south and the only exception to this rule, is where there are broken or detached ranges, or isolated peaks. Leaving Wells, the foot hills on our left, in a short distance, ob- scure a view of the high peaks in the Ruby Range ; but they soon reappear as we pass down the valley, and are our constant companions, only a short distance away, until we leave Halleck. Between the Humboldt River and the base of these mountains, there is an elevated bench cov- ered with the usual sage brush and greasewood, while in the valley and along the borders of the stream, grass land predominates. An exten- sive stock-dealer, when asked about the quali- fications, etc., for growing cattle, said that " there was about one acre of grass to seventy- five acres of sage brush," and a limited observa- tion of this part of the State, at least, proves that he was not far out of the way. As we de- scend the river, however, a gradual increase in grass lands will be observed, while in places, the greasewood which, so far as we know, is entirely useless, grows in astonishing luxuriance. Tulasco, 654 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,482 feet. The valley seems to widen out as we descend it, and bushes grow in bunches along the banks of the stream as if the old earth, under the most favorable conditions, was trying to produce trees to beautify and adorn these barren plains. Soon Bishop's Valley can be seen on our right. Looking to the left, we see the canon in the mountain side, down which rushes Trout Creek, when the snows are melting in the spring and early summer. This creek abounds in " speckled beauties," and unites with the Humboldt about a mile and a half below Bishop's Creek, which we soon cross, through a covered bridge. Bishop's is another side track station, but on we glide through the valley as it widens out into magnificent proportions. It is 649 miles from San Francisco, and has an elevation of 5,412 feet. Another little creek and valley now appear on our right, and we soon arrive at Deeth, 642 miles from San Francisco ; ele- vation, 5,340 feet. It is a telegraph station, and has a few buildings around it. The valley seems very broad as we approach this station, and evi- dences of settlement and cultivation begin to appear. The bushes and willows along the banks of the stream increase, and it is a para- dise for ducks and geese. Halleck is the next station, 630 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,230 feet. It is named from Camp Halleck, which is located at the base of mountains, 13 miles from the station, and across the river. A few troops are usually kept here two or three companies, and all the freighting and business of the post is done from this station. The town itself has a post-office, hotel, a small store and the usual saloons where " lingering death," or " blue ruin," the com- mon terms for whisky, is doled out to soldiers, and others who patronize them. It is probable that good crops of wheat, barley and oats could be raised here by irrigating the land, but it is mostly occupied as stock ranges. Camp Halleck is not plainly seen from the railroad, though a few buildings a little removed from it, will point out its locality. A regular mail ambulance runs daily between it and the station. Leaving Halleck, Elko Mountain seems to rise on our right close to the track, but the road soon turns and we pass this landmark on our left. The Ruby Range which we have seen away to the left, from Wells to the last station, is now left in the rear as we turn westward again, and pass down one of the Humboldt Canons. The camp is delightfully located, well watered and is sur- rounded with thriving groves of cottonwood trees. Peko is the next station, merely a side track, and section-house at the head of the first canon on the river. It is 626 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,204 feet. We are now at the head of the Humboldt Canon, the first one through which the river passes. It is not wild and rugged but nevertheless sufficiently so to make it interesting. A short distance be- low Peko, the North Fork of Humboldt comes in. It is about as large as the main body and is a peculiar stream. It rises nearly north of Car- 177 lin, some distance west of this point, and runs to the north-east for a distance, then nearly east, and finally turns toward the south-west, and unites with the Humboldt at this point. The road through this canon is full of short curves, and winds like a serpent through the hills. Now it seems as though the train would be thrown into a heap at the base of the hill we are approaching, but a turn to the right or left saves us from such a calamity. Once or twice before we reach Osino, the valley opens out between the hills, and where the North Fork enters there is an abundance of grass which is monopolized by a rancheman. At the next station, Osino, 614 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,132 feet, a mere side track, we enter upon an open valley, and for about nine miles pass over a nearly straight track. The valley is all taken up by ranchemen and farmers, and good crops are raised by irrigation. The water is taken from the Humboldt above, brought down in a ditch, from which it is taken and distributed among the farms. Elko, 608 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,063 feet. Jt is the regular breakfast and supper station of the road, and passengers get an excellent meal in a neat house, kept by Mr. Clark, the most genial and accommodating landlord on the road. The table is usually well supplied with fruits, fish and game. Elko is the county-seat of Elko County the north-eastern county of the State. It has a pop- ulation of about 1,200, and is destined to become one of the important commercial and educa- tional centers of the State. Jt lias a large brick court-house and jail, one church, an excellent public school, and is the seat of the State Uni- versity. This institution has 40 acres of ground on a bench of land overlooking the city, in plain sight of the cars on the right, just before reach- ing the town. Its buildings have thus far cost about $30,000, and it was first opened in 1875. The money paid for freights consigned to this place and the mining districts which are tribu- tary to it, in 1875 amounted to nearly $400,000, and the first year the railroad was completed ran up to over 11,000,000. The town has nu- merous retail stores and two or three wholesale establishments, with a bank, a flouring mill, brewery, hotels, etc. Water taken from the Humboldt River some 17 miles distant, and brought here in pipes, supplies the city. It has three large freight depots, for the accommo- dation of its railroad business, and is the loca- tion of the United States Land office for the Elko Land District. The city is rapidly im- proving, brick and wooden structures taking the place of the canvas houses that were formerly prevalent. Altogether it has a bright and promising future. Indians, mostly the Sho- 12 shones, of all sizes and of both sexes, hover around the town and beg from the trains of cars. They still bedaub themselves with paint, and strut around with feathers in their hats in true Indian style. Elko is destined to become famous as a water- ing place. About one and a half miles north of the river, and west of the town, are a group of mineral springs that are already attracting the attention of invalids. There are six springs in this group, three hot, and three cold. The hot springs show 185 Fahrenheit, and one of them, called the " Chicken Soup Spring," has water which, with a little salt and pepper for season- ing, tastes very much like chicken broth. We regret that no analysis of the waters of these springs has been made, which we could furnish to our readers. Tourists in search of wonderful curiosities will not fail to visit these springs and observe the craters of those which are now ex- tinct. The sediment or incrustations formed by the water into some kind of porous rock, accu- mulated around the apertures until at length they were raised, in one instance, about three feet above the surface of the ground, with a hol- low basin, at least one foot in diameter on the top. Other extinct springs are not as high as this one, but show the same formation and have the same peculiarities. Of the hot flowing springs said to be white sulphur two are quite large, and one of them is said to contain a large solution of iron. A bathing-house has been erected a short distance away, to which the wa- ter is conducted, and in which there are private bathing-rooms supplied with both hot and cold water from the springs. There is also a large swimming bath near by, with dressing-rooms ad- joining. A large hotel is to be erected the pres- ent year for the accommodation of guests. There is a public conveyance running between the city and the springs for thte accommodation of vis- itors. In the absence of an analysis of the waters we will simply state that they are claimed to be a certain cure for rheumatism and all dis- eases of the blood ; to have a remarkable effect in paralytic cases ; to have a good effect on con- sumptives, when the disease is not too far ad- vanced ; to cure fevers of all kinds, and the leaded cases of miners who become poisoned with the lead disease, by working among antimo- nial ores. The uniform temperature of the hot springs has been further utilized in hatching chickens, and the experiment, if carried to per- fection, will beat all the setting hens in the coun- try. Poultry breeders will make a note of this fact. A competent physician who is a good judge of temperaments and diseases should be located at the springs, and additional facilities for the accommodation of invalids will make it a place of great resort. The following mining districts are tributary to Elko, and will in the future, far more than in 178 the past, contribute to its growth and prosperity : Lone Mountain, 30 miles distant ; Tuscarora, f>0 miles; Grand Junction, 55 miles; Cornucopia, 70 miles ; Aurora, 80 miles ; Bull Run, lately changed to Centennial, 80 miles ; Cope, 100 miles : Island Mountain placer diggings and quartz mines, 75 miles ; Bruno, 80 miles ; Hicks, 110 miles ; Mardis, 100 miles. Nearly all the business done in these mining districts is trans- acted through Elko, and adds not a little to its bustling activity. These districts are north of the town, and located mostly in the ranges of mountains that border or lie between the forks of the Owyhee River, a stream that flows into the Snake River of Idaho. Lieutenant Wheeler, in his report of the United States Exploring Ex- pedition, which made a partial survey of the lands and features of Nevada, describes this mineral belt as about 160 miles long, and as one of the richest in the country. It has been but partially prospected, however, and we believe the developments which are now in progress and which are hereafter to be made, will astonish the nation as to the unparalleled richness of the mines of Nevada. Up to the spring of 1876, greater developments had been made in the mines in Tuscarora and Cornucopia Districts than in most of the others. Tuscarora is the principal town in the mining district of the same name. It has about 500 inhabitants, and by Saptember of the present year is anticipated to have 1,500. The principal mines of this district are Young America, Young America North, Young America South, Lida, De Frees, Star, Grand Deposit, Syracuse and others. The most work thus far done, is on the Young America, Young America South, and De Frees. On the first named of these three there is an inclined shaft of 190 fest, and carries free ore from sur- face to end of development. In sinking, levels have been run to full extent of the ground, 800 fest, and tha ledge is from 20 inches to five feet wide. It is easily worked, no explosions being re- quired, and the ore is said to average from $ 80 to $103 per ton in gold and silver, without assorting. The development on the De Frees Mine is as follows : A tunnel has been run from side of hill and ledge struck, about 40 feet from the sur- face ; an incline shaft has been sunk from level of this tunnel to a depth of 95 feet, showing fine ore all the distance, the extreme bottom showing the best ore. This ore has averaged from $90 to $150 par ton, in gold and silver. Steam hoisting works have been erected on the Young America, and a twenty-stamp mill will soon be finished, for the reduction of the ores from this mine. A twenty-stamp mill will soon be finished for the De Frees Mine, and it is expected that these mills will do some custom work for the mines being developed in the vicinity. Other mines in the district are said to be very prom- ising. The mines in the Tuscarora and Cornu- copia Districts are in a porphyry formation, with free milling ore ; those in the Bull Run or Centennial District are in porphyry and lime, and the ores have to be roasted before they are milled. Cornucopia District is about 25 miles north of Tuscarora District, and contains a population of 500. Its mines are upon the same range of mountains as the Tuscarora. The principal mines in this district are the Leopard ; the Pan- ther, the Tiger, the Hussey, and the Consoli- dated Cornucopia. Principal developments are on the Leopard and Hussey. The former has been largely opened, and has been running a twenty-stamp mill for the past year or more, producing about $1,000,000. The ore is said to average about $150 per ton, all silver. The Centennial District has a population of about 200. Its principal mine is the Blue Jacket, which supplies a twenty-stamp mill with ore. A Buckner furnace for roasting is also used in connection with the mill. The ore is said to average $70 per ton, and the vein is very large, frequently 20 feet between the walls. Other districts are said to contain promising mines, but miners and those interested in mines, are always so full of hope always expecting to strike something rich and nearly always hav- ing a good thing in the "prospects" already found, that it is extremely difficult to determine, in a short investigation, which is the most prom- ising district, or where are the best undeveloped mines. In a developed mine the daily product of bullion will show what it is worth. Elko has a daily stage route north, which car- ries the mail and express and supplies the fol- lowing places : Taylors, Tuscarora, Independence Valley, Grand Junction, Cornucopia, Bull Run and Cope. These places are generally north and north-west of Elko. At Cope, the route ends. There is a weekly mail, stage and express line to the Island Mountain District, 75 miles due north. This is a placer gold field, discovered in 1873, and it is estimated that $100,000 in gold- dust, were taken out in 1875. Three miles north of the Island Mountain District, is the Wyoming District, where valuable silver mines are said to have been discovered. The chief lode is known as the Mardis, which is owned by a Chicago company. A stamp mill is now being erected there. The mineral belt before alluded to, be- gins at the north end of the Goose Creek Range, and runs south-west about 160 miles. It is about 60 miles wide. Tuscarora is also some- what noted as a placer field, while Aurora, a new district west of Cornucopia, is said to be very promising. It is 10 miles from the last named place to Aurora. In the vicinity of the mining districts spoken of, there are rich agricultural valleys where all kinds of grain, but corn, are extensively raised, 179 MOUNTAIN SCENE IN THE RUBY RANGE. and vegetables and melons grow to a great size and excellence. There are, also, vast stock ranges all of which are tributary to Elko. South from Elko there is a semi-weekly stage, mail and express route to Bullion City, the town of the Railroad Mining District. This town has about 150 people, and is distant 25 miles from Elko. The ores of this district are smelting ores, and the town has two large furnaces for the reduction of this ore. The principal mines 180 are owned by the Empire Company of New York. There is also a weekly stage line into the South Fork and Huntington Valleys two rich agricultural valleys, which are thickly settled with fanners and stockmen. In addition to the two valleys last named, there are the Star, Pleasant and Mound Valleys, all rich agricultural districts, and all tributary to Elko. Elko has one daily and two weekly papers which are well supported. The Post is a weekly, Republican in politics, and the Independent, daily and weekly, is Democratic in politics though party ties do not seem to be drawn very tightly, and men, re- gardless of their personal political affiliations, frequently receive the support of all parties. We will now take leave of this city, and, re- freshed with food and rest, renew our journey westward. The valley of the Humboldt con- tinues to widen as we leave Elko for a few miles, and if it is winter or cool mornings of spring or autumn, we will see the steam rising in clouds from the Hot Springs across the river near the wagon bridge, on our left. The pasture and meadow lands, with occasional houses are soon passed, and we arrive at Moleen, 594 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,982 feet. It is simply a side track station, with no settlements around it, and trains seldom stop. The same general appear- ance of the valley and low ranges on either side continue to this place. Occasionally as we have glanced to the left, the high peaks of the Ruby Range have lifted themselves into view, overtop- ping the nearer and lower range that borders the river on the south. Passing Moleen, the valley begins to nar- row, and the river gorges through the Five Mile Canon. Close to the bluffs we roll along and suddenly, almost over our heads, the beating storms of ages have washed out the softer and more porous parts of the ledges, leaving turrets and peaks, towers and domes standing along in irregular order. We could not learn that this peculiar formation had any local name ; they are known in this vicinity as the " Moleen Rocks," and with this name we must be satisfied. The road curves to conform to the line of the earth now one way and now another. The scenery here is not grand and sublime, but just enough peculiar to be interesting. The towering ledges in this canon or, in the one below, are not a thousand or fifteen hundred feet high, for accu- rate measurements have placed them at about 800 feet. This canon is soon passed and the valley opens out again. We soon cross Susan's Creek, and then Maggie's Ci'eek, then Mary's Creek, and we are at Carlin, 585 miles from San Francisco, at an elevation of 4,897 feet. It is a railroad town, the terminus of a freight division of the road and the location of the roundhouse, machine, car and repair shops of the Humboldt Division of the Central Pacific Railroad. It is the head- quarters of Mr. G. W. Coddington, the Division Superintendent. The division extends from Toano to Winnemucca, and this place is about half way between them. The town has no busi- ness outside of the railroad shops and employes, and numbers about 200 people. The round- house has 16 stalls for engines, and the repair shop, six pits. It is in Elko County. The old emigrant road divided just before reaching Car- lin, one branch going south of the river, and the range of mountains bordering the same, and the other going north of the hills on the north side of the river. These two roads came together below, near Gravelly Ford. In the vicinity of Carlin the four little creeks come in from the north. In the order in which they are crossed, they are called Susie, Maggie, Mary and Amelia. Tra- dition says in regard to these names, that an emigrant was crossing the plains with his family at an early day, and that in this family were four daughters in the order given, and that as the party came to these streams, they gave the name of each one of the daughters to them a very appropriate thing to do, and their names have been perpetuated in history. Just east of Moleen Station, the tourist looking off to the left, will notice the break or gorge through the low hills, on the south side of the river. Through this gorge the South Fork of the Humboldt comes in. This stream rises in the Ruby Range of Mountains and flows in a general westerly direction, uniting with the main river at this point. We will here state that nearly all the people in the vicinity, call the range of mount- ains last alluded to " Ruby," and we have fol- lowed the custom ; but Lieutenant Wheeler's Map speaks of it as the Humboldt Range, and accord- ing to the custom of the people along this valley, nearly every range of mountains in sight, from one side of the State to the other, is called " Hum- boldt Range," or " Humboldt Mountains." As to the fertility of these and other valleys in this part of the State, it all depends upon irrigation. A sage brush plain indicates good soil, but water must be obtained to raise a crop. An effort has been made to make Carlin the shipping point to the mining districts on the north, but without much success thus far. The iron horses are changed here, and with a fresh steed we pass down the valley. It is quite wide here, but will soon narrow as we enter the Twelve Mile Canon. Like the former, the road winds around the base of the bluffs and almost under the ledges, with the river sometimes almost under us. The peaks and ledges seem to have no local name, but some of them are very singular. In one place, soon after entering the canon, the ledges on the right side of the track seem to stand up on edge, and broken into very irregular, serrated lines, the teeth of the ledge being uneven as to SCENES IN THE HUMBOLDT DESERT. 1. The Sink of the Humbolclt. 2. Mountain Scene near Deeth. 3. Group of Piute Indians. 4. Hum bold t River. 5. Great American Desert, East of Elko. 6. Wadaworth. 182 length. The height oi. the bluffs and of the palisades below, is about the same as in the former canon SOU feet. In some places the pal- isades are hollowed out like caves or open arches, and the debris that has crumbled and fallen from their summits during the ages, obscures their full form and height from view. Twelve Mile Canon, in the Palisades, was graded in six weeks by the Central Pacific .Railroad Company, one cut herein containing 6,600 cubic yards. Five Mile Canon just east- ward, was graded in three weeks, with a force of 5,000 to 6,000 men. With the perpendicular walls rising on each side of us, we glide around the curves, and in the midst of these reddish lines of towering rocks, arrive at Palisade, 576 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,841 feet. It is the initial point of the Eureka & Palisade Railroad, is a growing little place between the wall rocks of the river, and has a population of from 150 to 200 souls. It has one or two hotels or lodging-houses, stores, saloons, two large freight depots, and the machine and repair shops of the Eureka & Palisade Railroad. This road is a three feet gauge, and we shall speak of it more fully here- after. A new station-house, ticket and telegraph office has been constructed here, the finest on the road to be occupied and used by both the Central Pacific and Eureka & Palisade Roads. The town is located about half the distance down the canon, and the rocky, perpendicular walls give it a picturesque appearance. The lower half of the canon is not as wild and rug- ged, however, as the upper half. All freight, which is mostly base bullion, that is shipped from Eureka and other points on this branch road, has to be transferred here, and the traveler may sometimes be surprised, in passing, at the immense piles of bullion which may here be seen on the platform of the railroad companies. On a hill to the right is a wooden reservoir supplied by springs, from which the water used in town is taken. The canon above was not used for the purposes of travel before the passage of the Cen- tral Pacific Road not even a horseman ventur- ing through it. Shoshone Indian Village. Just below the town is what Fenimore Cooper would doubt- less call an Indian Village, but it requires a great stretch of the imagination on the part of the prac- tical American, or live Yankee, now-a-days, to see it. A dozen or so tents, discolored with smoke and besmeared with dirt and grease, revealing from six to ten squalid beings covered with ver- min, filth and rags, is not calculated to create a pleasing impression, or awaken imaginary flights to any great extent. Between Ogden and Battle Mountain, the Indians now seen on the line of the road are mostly Shoshones. Their reservation proper, for this part of the country, is at Carlin, but very few of them are on it. For some reason, best known to themselves, they prefer to look out for themselves rather than receive the small annual amount appropriated by the government for their maintenance. They are all inveterate gamblers, and a group of squaws will sit on the ground for hours, around a blanket stretched out, and throw sticks. There are usually five of these fiat sticks, from four to six inches in length, one side of which is colored slightly. Each one has a rock, a piece of coal, or some other hard substance by her side, and slightly inclined toward the blanket. She will then gather the sticks in Her hand and throw them upon this rock so that they will bound on to the blanket, and the point of the game seems to be, which side of the sticks, the colored or plain, comes up in falling. It seems to be a perfect game of chance, and the one who throws so that the sticks all fall colored side up, seems to have some advantage in the game. There is said to be some improvement in their methods of living during the last fifteen years ; some of them have been employed on ranches, and some of the squaws are employed in doing the plainest kinds of housework ; the children and younger mem- bers of the tribe are most all becoming acquainted with the English language, and all, so far as they are able, are gradually adopting the civilized customs of dress, etc., though they invariably, thus far, paint their faces. Leaving Palisade, the traveler will notice the railroad bridge, a short distance out, on which the narrow gauge crosses the river on its way south as it enters Pine Valley. We soon enter gorges in the canon, and on the left side of the river a high bluff rises. After passing this, and looking back about half way up the side, a column is seen jutting out in front of the bluff, and crowned with what appears like a finger. We have called it " Finger Rock." The chan- nel of the river has been turned from its bed by a heavy embankment a work rendered neces- sary to avoid a short curve, and on we go over a very crooked piece of road for nearly six miles, when we cross the river and the valley again opens. We have now passed through the Twelve Mile Canon, and soon arrive at ClurOf a way-station 565 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,785 feet. Trains do not stop unless signaled. The valley becomes wider, the hills more sloping and less high as they border the valley, but away to the left are the higher peaks of the Cortez Mount- ains. We now enter an open basin, and on the right we see the old emigrant road making up the hill from Gravelly Ford. One branch of this road, leading to "the same ford, we also cross, but the old roadway, plainly visible from the cars, up the hill on the north side of the river, marks the locality of the ford itself. The river here spreads over a wide, gravelly bed, and is 183 B o B H g W H ? W d g to o F o H 184 always shallow so that it is easily crossed. The emigrants, in the days of ox and mule trains, took advantage of this crossing to send letters, either one way or the other, by outward bound or returning trains. They would split a willow sprout by the side of the road and put their let- ters in it, which would be taken out by some one in the first train and carried to the nearest post- office on the route. In 1858, it is said, that an Indian massacre took place here, in which 18 emigrants were killed ; and other skirmishes with the gentle red men, were frequently in order. The old emi- grant road is fairly lined with the graves of emi- grants, who perished on their way to the land of finally come to believe it themselves ; and this may account for the many wonderful stories that have been palmed off on some book-makers, and by them, in turn, hashed up for the traveling public. Travelers can always hear all they choose, but it is well to be a little cautious about believing all they hear. The Maiden's Grave. There is hardly an old resident on this coast, but who has some in- cident to relate in reference to Gravelly Ford. It was not only an excellent crossing place, but it was also a fine camping place, where both man and beast could recruit after the weary days on the dreary plains. There were wide bottom- lands that offered excellent grazing for stock, ENTERING UUMBOLDT CANON. gold, or in returning from the same. There are, also, many of the Shoshoiies and Piutes now living, who have been made cripples in these battles and skirmishes with the emigrants. They will talk about them with their acquaint- ances, and say " heap of white men killed there," but can seldom be induced to say how many Indians were slain in the same conflict. Indeed, parties representing each side of the contending forces have become well acquainted, and now frequently meet each other on friendly terms. There is a disposition, also, among these old plainsmen " to spin yarns," equal to any old navigator that ever lived, and one has to be ex- tremely cautious as to what he believes. These old story-tellers are like old Jim Bridger they will tell a lie so often and so earnestly, that they and the small brush along the banks of the stream gave excellent shade and firewood. On a low point of land that juts out toward the river on the south side of the track, and just be- low this ford, is the Maiden's Grave. Tradition has it that she was one of a party of emigrants from Missouri, and that, at'this ford, while they were in camp, she sickened and died. Her lov- ing friends laid her away to rest in a grave on this point of land, in plain sight of the ford and of the valley for miles in either direction. But while her remains were crumbling into dust, and she, too, was fading from the memory of all, per- haps, but her immediate relatives, the railroad builders came along, and found the low mound, and the decayed head-board which marked her resting-place. With that admiration of, and de- 185 votion to woman, which characterizes American citizens of even humble origin, they made a new grave and surrounded it with an enclosure a picket fence, painted white and by the side of it erected a cross, the emblem of the Christian's faith, which bears on one side, this legend " The Maiden's Grave " and on the other, her name, " Lucinda Duncan." All honor to the men whose respect for the true woman led them to the per- formance of this praiseworthy act an act which would have been performed by no race under the heavens, but ours ; and not by them, indeed, to the remains, under similar circumstances, of a representative of the sterner sex. The location of this grave is near Beowawe, and the point is now used as a burial ground by the people living in the vicinity. Passing the point where the grave is located, an extended valley comes in from the left, south of which extends the Cor- tez Range of Mountains. We now arrive at Beowaive, 556 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,695 feet. It has a hotel, a few dwellings, and is the station where the business of the Cortez Mining District is trans- acted. There is no regular stage line to this district, but private conveyances may be ob- tained. The mines are reported looking well are mostly individual property. They are 30 miles from the station and a tri-weekly mail is carried by some parties who are interested in the matter. A reduction mill has been erected there, which is producing bullion regularly. There is a beautiful signification attached to the name of this station, which will be more fully realized after the station is passed, than before. It means " gate," or " the gate," and as you look back from below, the conformation of the hills on either side of the valley is such, that the sta- tion seems to stand in an open gateway, up the Humboldt Valley to the canon beyond. The valley is occasionally dotted with farm-houses, or ranches, and besides stock raising, which is one of the principal features of this part of the country, there is considerable done in the way of agriculture, barley being the chief crop yield- ing immensely when the land is properly irri- gated and the crops taken care of. At Beowawe an immense stretch of valley land can be seen away to the right, with a range of mountains, which seems to be an extension of the Reese River Range, north of the Humboldt, west of it. As the river bends northward to meet these val- leys, it receives the waters of Boulder and Rock Creeks, which come in from the north and north- east. These creeks open up a vast country, which is well occupied by ranches and stock- men. Leaving Beowawe, we cross a large valley and sage brush plain the valley coming in from the south. A few miles out, we notice, if the weather is at all cool, steam rising from the side of the mountain, while colored streaks, caused by the sediment of the springs, can clearly be seen from the passing train. This steam comes from the Hot Springs on the mountain side, and the sediment marks their locality. The water in some of these springs is boiling hot, and par- takes strongly of sulphur. We could not learn that any analysis had been made, nor could any one inform us of the exact temperature. There is a vast field for geological exploration in this State, and the general government should enter upon the work at once. The springs also are im- pregnated with iron, but no one knows the quan- tity, nor just in what proportion these mineral waters are mixed. To the inhabitants in this immediate vicinity, of course, they have ceased to be a wonder; but to the majority of travelers, they will ever be clothed with interest. A creek of alkali water comes down from the springs and we cross it on the flat alluded to, and the wide valley off to the right is still better seen as we approach and pass Shoshone, 546 miles from San Francisco ; elevation, 4,636 feet. It is simply a side track station. Rock Creek, before spoken of, comes into the Humboldt nearly opposite this place, and the broad valley continues, on the right of the road. The station is called Shoshone Point by the people in the valley, because a mountain, or high ridge, pushes out into the valley, like a promontory. This is one of the landmarks on the dividing line between the Shoshone and Piute tribes of Indians ; but the line we con- sider purely imaginary, from the fact that Indi- ans, as a general thing, go where they please in this country, lines or no lines. The wide basin spoken of, continues below and off to the right of this station, and, as we pass on, a long line of board fence will be noticed stretching, from a point high up on the mountain, across the track and valley toward the Humboldt River, on the right. This is the eastern line of Dunphy & Hil- dreth's stock ranche. In seven miles we shall pass the western line, or fence. We have be- fore spoken of Iliff, as the cattle king of the plains, and, while this is true east of the Black Hills of Wyoming, he will have to yield the crown to some of the cattle kings of the Pacific Coast. This firm has 20 miles of fencing in these two lines: They have over 20 thousand acres fenced in. Their fences, made of redwood posts and Oregon pine boards, cost them a little over $900 per mile. They have, altogether, about 40,000 head of cattle, mainly in two herds one here and the other north, on the Snake River. Th< y have purchased of the State, government and Central Pacific Railroad and now own about 30,000 acres of land. Most of their cattle are shipped to, and find a market in San Francisco. The immense range fenced in at this point is occupied by a select herd of graded stock, and some of the best blooded animals in the country are annually purchased to improve the grades. 186 The system they have adopted for grading up their herds, is such that in a very few years they will have the largest herd of high graded stock in the country. They also cut large quantities of hay on the meadow lands near the banks of the Humboldt, which they feed to all their weak cattle, and to those which they intend for late winter, or early spring market. The Humboldt Valley and its tributaries constitute the best part of the State for stock ranges. The snow seldom falls very deep ; does not stay long, and the grass makes its appearance early in the spring. The purchase of large tracts of land by these foresighted cattlemen, will give them a monopoly of the business in the future. Argenta, 535 miles from San Francisco ; elevation, 4,548 feet. It is simply a side track station, where considerable hay is shipped. This station is immediately surrounded by alkali flats, near the base of the Reese River Mountains. The road continues for a few miles along the base of these mountains, when, suddenly, a broad valley opens out, on the left. It is the" valley of Reese River. We turn to the right, cross the valley and the river all there is left of it and arrive at Battle Mountain, 524 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,511 feet. It is located at the junction of the Reese River and Humboldt Valleys. The mountain which gives it its name is about three miles south of the sta- tion, where there are magnificent springs from which water is conducted to the town, supplying the railroad and inhabitants with water. Battle Mountain is the regular dinner station on the line of the road, and the passenger will dine at a very cosy and attractive place. In the midst of a surrounding desert he will observe the flowing fountain and patches of green grass which will here greet his eyes, together with the evident taste and care which is manifested about every- thing connected with the house. Travelers will occasionally have a great deal of fun in listening to the talk of the Chinese waiters. The town is mostly on one street south of the railroad. It has several quite extensive stores, a public hall, an excellent school-house, two large freight depots, a first-class hotel. It has an ex- tensive and rapidly increasing trade with the surrounding country, and newly developed min- ing districts in its neighborhood. It is the busi- ness center of a large number of stockmen, and the trading point for a large number of mining districts districts considerably scattered over quite a large part of the State. The town is located in Lander County, but is not the county- seat. Austin, 90 miles away, claims that honor. Daily stages, carrying the mail and express, leave here for Austin, Belmont and other places south, immediately on the arrival of the trains from the west. The distance to Austin, 90 miles, is made by about 6 o'clock on the morning of the day after departure, and, of course, takes in an all night stage ride. Belmont, about 90 miles from Austin, is reached in the evening of the day after departure. The following mining districts, south of the railroad, are more or less tributary to Battle Mountain : commencing on the east side of the Reese River Range, first is the Lewis Mining District, 16 miles distant from Battle Mountain. It is located on the northern extremity of the range. At the southern extremity of this range is the Austin District. The mountain range between these two districts, is said to contain mines, but it has not been thoroughly prospected. Austin, the head-quarters of the Austin District, is a very nice town with a population of about 3,000 souls. It is said to possess a good deal of public spirit, and is active and enterprising. It has a fine court-house, three churches, a large brick public school building, some elegant resi- dences, and other appearances of thrift. The Reese River Valley is about 160 miles long, trav- ersed its entire length by the river of the same name, though it cannot be called much of a river where the railroad crosses it, near Battle Mount- ain. The upper portion of the valley, about 50 miles in length, is a very fine agricultural dis- trict, is quite well settled, and is tributary to Austin. The valley is also settled in places where mountain streams come into it, between Battle Mountain and Austin. The Manhattan Company, composed of New York capitalists, own and operate nearly all the mines in the Austin District. They are reported to possess some excellent mines with milling ore, some of which is high grade. There are other mining districts around Austin, and tributary to it such as the Jefferson, lone, Belmont, etc., which are favorably spoken of. On the west side of the Reese River Valley, and immediately south of Battle Mountain, are the following districts : Battle Mountain Dis- trict, 7 miles distant; Galena District, 16 miles; Copper Canon, 18 miles, and Jersey, 55 miles. The copper mines are owned by an English com- pany which is now putting in concentrating machinery and are said to be rich. The Jersey District produces smelting ore, and has one or two furnaces already erected which are turning out biillion. North of Battle Mountain are the Cornucopia and Tuscarora Districts which are said to do some business from this place, and are regarded as tributary to it. Several stations on the line of the road are competing for the trade of these mining districts, and all claim it, and also claim to be the nearest railroad point, with the best wagon roads, etc. Battle Mountain not north of the Humboldt River, but about three miles south of the station is reported to have been the scene of a conflict between a party of emigrants camped near the 187 springs heretofore spoken of, and a band of red- skins who had an innate hankering after the stock of the said party of emigrants. The losses of this battle are said to have been quite severe on both sides, considering the numbers engaged. It is generally conceded, however, that the redskins got the worst of it, though they say " A heap white men killed there." The opening, or valley directly opposite and north of Battle Mountain, is without water in its lower portion, and is a desert of sand and sage brush. The range of mountains at whose base the town is situated, and south of it, on the west side of Reese River Valley, is sometimes called the Battle Mountain Range, and sometimes the Fish Creek Range, from a creek that rises in it about 25 miles south of Battle Mountain, and runs into Reese River Valley. About 25 miles south of Battle Mountain, are some very fine hot springs. There are nearly 60 of them, covering about half a section of land. The largest one is about 60 feet long by 30 feet wide, and at times rises and falls from three to five feet. These springs are on the stage road to Austin, and are something of a wonder to travelers in that direction. How Ore is Reduced. We visited the re- duction works of the Lewis District, and to those who are not familiar with the way in which ores are handled, the following account may be of some interest. The ore from the mine in this dis- trict is neither free milling nor smelting ore. It has to be dried before it can be milled, and then roasted before it can be separated and amalgam- ated. The following is our account of the process in taking the silver from the ore : The ore, as it comes from the mine, is first run through a crusher a machine which has two heavy pieces of iron coming together like the human jaws in chewing. It is then passed either onto drying pans, heated by a fire from some furnace, or into a revolving dryer where all the moisture is ex- tracted. From this dryer it passes through a large iron tube or pipe into the milling hoppers below. These hoppers, holding the crushed and dried ore, are similar to those seen in old fashioned grist- mills, and from them the ore runs on to the stamp mill. The stamp mill is a series of upright iron shafts with a heavy iron or steel hammer on the lower end of each shaft. By machinery, these shafts are lifted up very rapidly and dropped a process repeated by each one from sixty to ninety times per minute. As they fall, they stamp or crush the ore to powder. In fact it leaves this mill pulverized like dust, and is conveyed by a hori- zontal screw to an adjoining room, where it is taken by elevators, just like those used in flour- ing mills to a bin or tank above. In the room where this elevator and bin are, is the cylin- drical roaster and furnace. From the tank the pulverized ore is taken as required, through an iron pipe into a large horizontal revolving roaster. About one and one-half tons of ore dust are required to charge the roaster, to which is added from eight to ten per cent, of salt. The heat and fire from the furnace pass through this roaster as it slowly turns around, the ore now mixed with salt, falling of course, from side to side at each revolution, across and through the flames. It is kept in this place about seven hours, or until it is supposed to be thoroughly chloridized. It is a sulphuret ore as it comes from the mine, but becomes a chloride ore by passing through this process. It comes out of the roaster at a white heat, is then wet down and cooled, and taken to an amalgamating pan which is agitated with a rnuller, which revolves in the pan from 60 to 70 times per minute in other words, it is a stirring apparatus. One and a half tons of ore are put into these pans, to which is added about 350 Ibs. of quicksilver. Water is then turned in and the mixture stirred a little, to the consistency of thick paste. Then hot steam is let in upon the mass, and while in process of agitation it is heated to a boiling heat. The pulp, as it is now called, is kept in this pan and constantly agitated or stirred for about seven hours. A plug is then drawn from the bottom of the tank or pan, and the pulp passes into " a settler " or " separator " where it is again agitated in water the amalgam, mean- while, settling to the bottom of the " settler," the quicksilver with the silver being drawn into a little receiver, from which it is dipped into sacks and strained. The quicksilver being thus nearly all taken out, the balance is called dry amal- gam, and this is taken to an iron retort, cylindri- cal in shape, about five feet long and 12 inches in diameter. This cylinder is charged with about 900 Ibs. of this dry amalgam, then thoroughly sealed, after which it is heated from a furnace underneath. The quicksilver remain- ing in the amalgam,volatilizes under the action of heat, and passes through an iron tube sur- rounded by cold water, where it is condensed and saved. The quicksilver being expelled by the action of the heat, leaves the crude bullion (silver in this case) in the cylinder. The dry amalgam remains in the retort some six or seven hours, requiring two or three hours additional to cool. The base bullion is then taken out, cut into small pieces and placed in a black lead crucible, and melted over a charcoal fire. While in this crucible the dross of course rises to the surface of the molten metal and is skimmed off. In the crucible it is thoroughly stirred with a long iron spoon, and a sample poured into cold water for assaying purposes. This is done just before the hot metal is poured into the molds and becomes bars. The assay deter- mines its fineness and value, which is stamped upon it, and it is then shipped and sold. It goes into the mill ore from the mine, and comes out silver in bars. 188 The tfreat Plains and Desert. BY JOAQUIN MILLER. Go ye and look upon that land, That far, vast land that few behold, And none beholding, understand ; That old, old land, which men call new, That land as old as time is old : Go journey with the seasons through Its wastes, and learn how limitless, How shoreless lie the distances, Before you come to question this, Or dare to dream what grandeur is. The solemn silence of that plain, Where unmanned tempests ride and reign, It awes and it possesses you, 'Tis, oh, so eloquent. The blue And bended skies seem built for it, With rounded roof all fashioned fit, And frescoed clouds, quaint-wrought and true : While all else seems so far, so vain, An idle tale but illy told, Before this land so lone and old. Lo ! here you learn how more than fit, And dignified is silence, when You hear the petty jeers of men, Who point, and show their pointless wit. The vastness of that voiceless plain, Its awful solitudes remain, Thenceforth for aye a part of you, And you are of the favored few, For you have learned your littleness. Some silent red men cross your track ; Some sun-tann'd trappers come and go ; Some rolling seas of buffalo Break thunder-like and far away, Against the foot hills, breaking back, Like breakers of some troubled bay ; But not a voice the long, lone day. Some white tail'd antelope flow by, So airy-like ; some foxes shy, And shadow-like shoot to and fro, Like weaver's shuttles as you pass ; And now and then from out the grass, You hear some lone bird chick, and call, A sharp keen call for her lost brood. That only make the solitude, That mantles like some sombre pall, Seem deeper still, and that is all. A wide domain of mysteries, And signs that men misunderstand ! A land of space and dreams : a land Of sea, salt lakes and dried up seas ! A land of caves and caravans, And lonely wells and pools. A land That hath its purposes and plans, That seem so like dead Palestine, Save that its wastes have no confine, Till pushed against the levell'd skies. 189 How the Piutes Bury their Dead. There seems to be a very irregular custom in practice among this tribe of Indians, in refer- ence to the disposition they make of their dead. When one of their number is sick, the services of a Medicine Man, as he is called, are made available, and all his arts and skill are exhausted to effect a recovery if possible. The Medicine Man comes, and goes through a system of con- tortions, which would rack the frame of a white person till it was unjointed, makes passes with the hands over the body of the sick one, and keeps up a continual howl that must grate very harshly upon the nerves of a sensitive person. Amidst these motions and groans and passes, the victim to disease lingers, until death puts an end to his sufferings. When the final dissolu- tion has occurred, the body hardly has time to become cold, before it is wrapped in a blanket, or old cloths, and preparations are made for the burial. This is done in secret, and, strange as it may appear, though many have died since the advent of the whites into this country, not a single person, so far as we could learn, knows of the burial place of a Piute Indian. The Indians will scatter in small parties, some of whom, it is supposed, will dig a grave, or perhaps several of them ; and though their actions may be closely watched, they somehow manage to spirit away the body and conceal it in its final resting-place so completely, that its location is unknown. Whether the immediate relatives of the deceased are mads acquainted with the burial place, we could not learn, but judge not, from the fact that all traces of the grave are obliterated from human view. This custom of concealing their dead, so very strange to us, is said to be univer- sal amrmg this tribe. Another singular custom among them, is to remove the tent, or wick-ee-up, at once, as soon as the body is taken away. They claim that an evil spirit has cursed the spot, and that it would be dangerous for them to remain in the " wick-ee " longer, or on the ground where it stood. They hasten into this work as if actuated by the greatest fear, and, ever afterwards, seem to regard it with suspicious awe. How the Flutes Catch Fifth. Nearly all the Indians seen on the line of the road be- tween Battle Mountain and Reno, are Piutes. They are great rabbit-hunters, and very success- ful in fishing. They make hooks from rabbit bones and greasewood, which are certainly su- perior to the most improved article made by the whites. This hook is in the shape of what might be called the letter " V " condensed ; that is, the prongs do not spread very far. A line, made of the sinews of animals, or the bark of a species of wild hemp, is attached to this hook at the angle, and baited with a snail or fresh water bloodsucker. Several of these hooks are tied to a heavier line, or a piece of light rope, one above the other, so far that they will not become tan- gled or snarled. A stone is then tied to the end of the heavy line, and it is cast into the stream. The fish take the bait readily, but Mr. Indian does not " pull up " when he feels one fish on the line. He waits until the indications are that several fish are there one on each hook and then he pulls out the heavy line, with fish and all. It seems that the hooks are so made that they can be swallowed easily enough with the bait, but as soon as the fish begins to struggle, the string acts on both prongs of the hook, pulling it straight, the ends of the letter " V " hook, of course, piercing its throat. It can neither swal- low it, nor cast it forth from its mouth. The more it pulls and struggles, the more straight- ened the hook becomes. Besides the superiority of this hook, one fish being caught, others are naturally drawn around it, and seize the tempt- ing bait upon the fatal hook. In this way an In- dian will catch a dozen or so fish, while a white man, with his fancy rod and " flies " and " spoons," and other inventions to lure the finny tribes and tempt them to take a bait, will catch not one. Leaving Battle Mountain we have a straight track for about 20 miles, across a sage brush plain, the river and a narrow strip of bottom- lands, on our right. Piute, 519 miles from San Francisco, with no elevation given, and Coin, 511 miles from San Francisco, are simply side track stations where trains meet and pass, but of no importance to the traveler. There was no Indian battle fought near Piute, nor does the Reese River sink into the valley here. What battle there was, was fought, as before stated, about three miles south of Battle Mountain Sta- tion, and what the sands in the valley do not ab- sorb of the waters of Reese River, may be seen a little alkali stream flowing across the railroad track, east of Battle Mountain, to effect a junc- tion with the Humboldt River. Stone House, 504 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,422 feet. This was not an old trading post, but a station in former times of the Overland Stage Company, and the house, built of stone near some very fine springs, was one of the eating-houses on their line, where travelers could relish square meals of bacon and coffee with safety. There is no particular ravine near the old ruins which the traveler would notice as an impregnable fortress. Quite a number of skirmishes are reported to have taken place near this station, however, and the graves yet distinguished in its vicinity tell of the num- ber who were killed near this place, or died here on their journey to the golden shores of the Pacific. Stone House Mountain, as it is now called, rears its head just back of the crumbling ruins, and from its summit a most extensive and beautiful view of the neighboring valleys and 190 surrounding country can be obtained. On the western slope of this mountain, and about seven miles from the station, are some hot springs simi- lar to others found in the Great Basin. But these springs are no more peculiar than those found at Golconda. a few miles below, nor dif- ferent from those found near Beowawe, which have already been mentioned. A gentleman who camped four days near them, while in pur- suit of a marauding party of Indians, informs us that there are four springs at the place alluded to, that they vary in temperature, and that only one is boiling hot, from which steam simply rises in the cool mornings of the season. The waters of this particular spring are very fine for drinkinsr, when cooled. These springs are not in sight from the railroad, nor can the steam therefrom be seen. About the only way one can become scalded is to tumble into it. Jn such a case, something more than " simple cerate and the prayers of friends " will be required. During the passage of the Humboldt Valley we cross several dry valleys, between ranges of mountains, that seem to be cut in twain by the river. These valleys are mostly covered with sand and sage brush ; occasionally have streams flowing down from the mountains which soon sink in the sands. There is a wide valley of this description north of the track as we approach Iron Point, 491 miles from San Francisco ; elevation, 4,375 feet. This station is near the point of a low ridge, with barren sides and rocky summit; the rocks a little reddish, indicating the proximity of iron. It is a shipping point for cattle, and has extensive stock-yards, though there are no other accommodations near by. This ridge was formerly considered the bound- ary line between the Shoshones and Piutes, and a trespass by either party has been the cause of many an Indian war. The wasting away of these tribes, however, renders the line simply imagin- ary, and the rights of either party to exclusive privileges on either side are no longer regarded. The valley now narrows, and we pass through a sort of a canon, with high bluff son both sides of the road. We wind round numerous curves, and after the canon is passed, we shall see the re- mains of an old irrigating ditch that was started here by a French company to take water from the Humboldt and carry it down the valley quite a distance for irrigating and mill purposes. A great amount of labor and money was expended upon this enterprise, but it was finally aban- doned. We believe a small outlay, compara- tively, would now make it a success. The ditch began at an adobe house, just as we are through a short canon and as the valley again begins to widen. This pass was called Emigrant Canon in the days of wagon travel. Golconda, 478 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,385 feet. The little town here has one or two stores, a hotel, several adobe houses and the usual railroad conveniences. Golconda is favorably located, as regards two or three important mining districts, and will event- ually do considerable business with them. It is also the location of some eight or ten hot mineral springs, which are passed on the right side of the track, just after leaving town. These springs vary in temperature from cool, or tepid water, to that which is boiling hot. The swimming bath an excavation in the ground is supplied with tepid water, and is said to be very exhilarating. The Boiling Spring exact temperature and analysis unknown is utilized by the farmers in the valley in scalding their swine. The water is said to be hot enough to boil an egg in one min- ute. Here clouds of steam can be seen when the weather is cold, rising from the hot water and warm soil surrounding. One of the springs near this station is also a curiosity, and should be visited by tourists. It is conical in shape, like an inverted tea-cup, four or five feet high, with a basin about three feet in diameter on the top. Formerly, the water came in at the bottom of this basin and bubbled over the rim ; but a few years since, it was tapped from below, and the water now flows out at the side, leaving the basin and cone as it was formed, by the sedimentary incrustations and deposit. The water flowing from the hot spring is used for irrigating purposes, and the owners of the spring have a monopoly of early vegetable " garden truck," raising early radishes, lettuce, onions, etc., before their season, by the warmth produced from the hot water. It is expected that the springs will be improved this year by the erection of a suitable bathing-house and hotel for the accommodation of guests. Gold Run Mining District, south of Golconda, is tributary to the place. The mines are re- ported rich in large bodies of ore, but not of a very high grade. They are, however, easily ac- cessible, and not more than 10 or 15 miles from the railroad, with good wagon roads the entire distance. The ore in this district is both smelt- ing and milling but requires roasting if it is to be milled. Three prospects are now being worked. About three miles from town is a small four-stamp mill, which is running on ore from this district. Paradise District of gold and silver mines, is about 18 miles north of Golconda. The ore is said to be a rich milling variety, but the pros- pects are not yet sufficiently developed to deter- mine the true value of the district. Title, 530 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,313 feet. It is simply a side track of no importance to travelers, and trains seldom stop. After leaving Golconda, we look toward the north and see the opening of Eden Valley. East of this valley, and to our right, is the Sol- dier's Spring Range, a broken range of mount- ains. Eden Valley extends north to the Little 191 Humboldt River. In fact, this river flows through the upper portion of the valley, and rises in the range just named, and flows in a south-westerly direction through Paradise Valley and unites with the Humboldt, nearly opposite, north of Tule. Paradise Valley is a fine agricultural basin, thickly settled, about 30 miles north. Paradise Valley is the name of the post-office a semi-weekly line of mail stages connecting it with Winnemucca, the county-seat of Humboldt County. This valley is shaped like a horseshoe, and produces superior crops of barley, wheat, rye and all kinds of vegetables. It seems to have a depression in the center, and, while it is nearly all cultivated, the best crops are raised on the slopes toward the mountains. The soil is a black, gravelly loam, and sage brush grows on the slopes to enormous size. Experiments in fruit culture have been tried, but, thus far, with indifferent success. Paradise Valley has a flour- ing-mill, store and dwellings, and gives every in- dication of thrift. Its name indicates the high esteem in which it is held by the settlers. It is nearly surrounded by mountains, and the numer- ous streams flowing down from them, afford am- ple water for irrigation. Most of these streams sink in the ground before they reach the Little Humboldt. Five miles beyond Tule, we reach JViunemucca, 463 miles from San Fran- cisco ; elevation, 4,332 feet. It is named in honor of the chief of the Piute tribe of Indians. The name itself means " chief," and is given to any member of the tribe who holds that office. The Piutes are divided into several bands, each under a chief they call ' Captan," thought here to be derived from the Spanish, and to mean the sam3 as our English word, "captain." Winne- mucca is now about 70 years old, and lives on the Malheur Reservation, in Oregon a reserva- tion occupied by the Piutes and Bannocks. He is very much respected almost worshiped by his dusky followers. The town is the county-seat of Humboldt County, and has- a population of about 1,200 people, among whom are some Indians, and quite a number of Chinamen. It is the western ter- minus of the Humboldt Division of the Central Pacific, has a large roundhouse, two large freight depots and the usual offices, etc., for the accom- modation of the railroad business. An elegant brick court-house has baen erected, together with several stores, hotels, shops, a large flouring-mill, a foundry, a ten-stamp quartz mill, with a capa- city for crushing ten tons of ore every 24 hours, and other public improvements completed, or in contemplation. The town is divided into two parts upper and lower; the latter being built on the bottom land near the river, and the upper, on a huge sand-bank, adjoining the railroad. Most of the buildings are frame, though a few are built of brick, or adobe, which, in this west- ern country, are called " dobe," for short. There is a school-house with accommodations for about 150 pupils two apartments, and no churches. It is also quite a shipping point for cattle and wool. About 9,000 head of cattle were shipped to the San Francisco market from this place, in the months of January and Feb- ruary of the present year. In the spring of 1875, over 500,000 Ibs. of wool were shipped to New York and Boston markets. It is also the shipping point to Camp McDermott, near the northern line of the State ; to Silver City and Boise City, Idaho ; and to Baker and Grant WINNEMUCCA, THE NAPOLEON OF THE PIUTES. Counties, in south-eastern Oregon. The stage lines are as follows : Daily stage and mail line to Silver City and Boise City, Idaho, distance to Silver City, 210 miles, extension to Boise, 65 miles farther. The same line supplies Camp McDermott, 85 miles distant. Semi-weekly line, Mondays and Fridays, to Paradise Valley, 45 miles. Weekly line soon to be made daily and to caYry the mail to Jersey, 65 miles, (south) leaving at present every Wednesday. There is also an immense freighting business done with the mining districts in the vicinity, and with Idaho Territory. Regular freight lines are on the road between this place and Silver City. The following mining districts are tributary 192 to Winuemucca and located in Humboldt County : beginning north of the railroad there are placer mines west of Paradise Valley and settlement ; at Willow Creek about 60 miles dis- tant from Winnemucca. Bartlett Creek Mines, gold and silver, 100 miles distant. Varyville is the town of this camp. It has about a hundred in- habitants, and is north-west of this city. Two quartz mills are in operation there, controlled by a Chicago company. Pueblo District copper mines, about 100 miles distant. Winnemucca District silver, two miles west of town, mines owned and operated by the Humboldt Mining Company, which has a ten-stamp quartz mill in town, supplied in part with ore from their mine, and run on custom ore at times. The ores in this vicinity have to be roasted, and this mill has a drop furnace the ore dropping through the flaming fire instead of being turned in a revolving heated cylinder. Central District in Eugene Mountain, south- west of town, produces silver ore and has a quartz mill. South of the railroad there is Jersey District and town, 65 miles distant. The business of this mining camp is divided between Battle Mountain and this place both claiming it. The town has about 200 people. The ore is argentiferous galena, rather above the average grade, and is found in large quantities. A smelting furnace has been erected and a consider- able amount of base bullion has been turned out. The smelter has a capacity of 25 tons per day. The shaft in the mine has been sunk to a depth of 130 feet, and levels run about 300 feet. It is claimed to be a very promising mining district. Antimony District is 80 miles due south of Winnemucca. Slabs of that mineral, weighing three tons, and averaging 70 per cent, pure anti- mony, can be obtained in this district. Near it is the Humboldt Salt Marsh, where salt, 95 per cent, pure, can be shoveled up by the wagon- load. This salt deposit is very extensive, and the supply seems to be exhaustless. Underneath the surface deposit, rock salt, or salt in large cakes or slabs, is taken out, in the driest part of the season, by the ton. In the valley leading to the above-named dis- trict are some very fine hot springs, but they are so common here as to be no curiosity. Twelve miles out, in the same valley, is a rich agricul- tural district, thickly settled, where not only grain and vegetables have been successfully cul- tivated, but the experiments in fruit culture have also proved successful. At the county fair, held in this city during the fall of 1875, fine specimens of apples, peaches, pears and plums were exhibited which were raised in this valley. Bolivia District, silver ore, 70 miles away. Ore from this district is shipped to various points; some to the mill here that is claimed to average $500 per ton. Comminsville Camp, in Sierra District, produces gold and silver ore. A ten-stamp mill is erected there. As the tourist walks the platform at this place, looking across the river to the right, he will see Winnemucca Mountain, but a short distance away, overlooking the town. To the left, he will observe the peaks of the Franklin or Sonoma Range. To the east, and somewhat distant, are the ragged summits of the Soldier's Spring Range, while a little to the south-west, but ap- parently in front, Eugene Mountain lifts itself up as a landmark to guide the traveler on his way. This mountain will be passed on our left as we continue the journey. Winnemucca has two newspapers, The Daily Humboldt Register and the Daily Silver State. Both are energetic little sheets, and fitly illus- trate the enterprise of these western towns. Across the river, over a wooden bridge, is located the cemetery, in which the remains of the dead are enclosed. It is on an elevated, sandy bench, the second ten-ace or step from the river level. By it winds the stage road to Idaho and the north. The Piutes have their tents scattered on all sides of the town, to which the euphonious name of " Wick-ee-ups " is given. They serve to re- mind cne of the departing glory if they ever had any of the Indian race. In this tribe, to their honor be it said, licentiousness among their women is very rare, and virtue is held in high esteem. But very few half-breed Indians can be found, or are they known in the State. This tribe, with the Bannocks, were especially hostile to the whites in an early day, and fought for many years with desperation and cruelty to pre- vent the settlement and development of this country. Their courage and deadly enmity has been displayed on many a hard-fought field, and if there are families in the East, or on the Pacific Coast, who still mourn the loss of missing ones, who were last heard of as crossing the plains, some Indian warrior, yet living, might be able to explain the mystery which has enveloped their final doom. For a number of years, with cease- less vigilance, they hung around the trains of emigrants, eager to dispatch a stray victim, or upon the borders of settlements, ready to strike down the hardy pioneer at the first favorable opportunity. At present, overpowered by num- bers, they live upon the bounty of their former enemies, and are slowly, but surely learning, by example, the ways of civilization. As a class, however, they are still indolent, dirty and cov- ered with vermin. But they begin to learn the worth of money, and know already that it has a purchasing power which will supply their scanty wardrobe, and satisfy their longing appetites. The mines on the top of Winnemucca Mount- ain are plainly seen, and the road that leads to them, from the cars, and the tourist from this will be able to understand something of the diffi- culties attending the process of getting out ore. 193 As we pass westward, a grand view of a distant range is obtained between Winnemucca and Black Butte. The last named mountain is an isolated peak, and stands out like a sentinel on guard. As we approach the higher peaks of the East or Humboldt Range, we pass Hose Creek, 453 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,322 feet. It is an unim- portant station, with side track, etc. You will have to look sharp to see the creek, or the roses, and, by way of variety, you will discover plenty of sage brush. It is a staple article, in this country. The river still winds its way along our right, and there is an occasional ranche on the mountain slope, where the water from some spring, or little creek, can be obtained for irriga- tion. Raspberry, 443 miles from San Fran- cisco ; elevation 4,327 feet. If roses were few and far be- tween, at the last station, raspberries are less frequent here. But these names are tanta- lizing and sug- gestive in the places they are applied to. Having turned the point of East Range, we bear off to the left. Eugene Mountain is now on our right, across the H umboldt River. M ill City, 435 miles from San Francisco, with an eleva- tion of 4,225 feet. This was once a town with great prospects. It was to be the terminus of the irrigating ditch, which we have seen beyond Winnemucca and Gol- conda, and this ditch, by a small expenditure of money, could now be made available, as far as Winnemucca. The Humboldt Mining Company, owning the stamp mill at that place, already al- luded to, also own this ditch. The French capi- talists, who put their money into the enterprise, long since abandoned it. Mill City, in their im- agination, was to be the seat of empire a mighty city of the plains, of influence and power. The banks of the canal they partially dug, were to be 13 lined with factories and mills. The mineral bear- ing ore of the State was to be brought to these mills, for reduction. Their ideas were grand, and could have been made successful, under other cir- cumstances ; but they were in advance of the times ahead of the age in which they lived. In the mutations of time, the town has become a great shipping-point for cattle 100 cars being shipped last year a number which is greatly ex- ceeded in some years. It has a steam foundry in operation, mostly employed in the manufacture and repair of mining machinery, and is the rail- road point where the business of several mining districts is done. Ore from Dun Glen, Unionville and Star City, comes here for shipment, and, once per week, bullion comes over from Union- ville. This last place was formerly more lively than at present. It is a town of about 300 peo- ple has four quartz mills in operation, and is connected with Mill City by a daily stage line, which passes by Star City distance to Unionville, 20 miles; to Star City, 10 miles ; to Dun Glen, 8 miles. The general course of the railroad being east and west, these places are all south of it. The mining dis- tricts, including the towns named, which are tributary to this place, are Unionville, Star and Indian Dis- B. B. STATION, HUMBOLDT, NEVADA. trfcts all trib- utary to Mill City. Mill City has a neat little hotel, a livery stable and several dwellings. It may possibly be the junction of a railroad to Ore- gon surveys of which have been, and are now being made. Leaving Mill City, we pass rapidly by an opening or gap in the mountains on our left, while a broad extent of valley opens out on our right, as Eugene Mountain sinks into the plain. The river recedes from our view, and winds along across an alkali flat some six or seven miles away. Through this opening on our right, the proposed branch railroad to Oregon will pass. 194 Surveys have already been made, and it is supposed the men in the Central Pacific Company will build it, and the junction with this road will be either here or near here. Through this gap travelers in the old emigrant times, turned off to go by the Honey Lake Route to Northern Cali- fornia and Southern Oregon. A natural road with easy grades is claimed for this route. In coming down this valley from Mill City, we pass a high mountain on our left, said to be the highest peak in Nevada 8,000 feet high. It is called Star peak. The elevation given is the common rumor in the vicinity. It is certainly a high mountain, and its lofty towers are nearly always covered with snow. Opposite this mountain is Humboldt, 423 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,236 feet above the sea, nearly the same as the Great Salt Lake. We have been coming down hill all the way from Wells, and yet we are no lower than when we left Ogden. We have now arrived at An Oasis in tlie Desert. The traveler from the East, will be especially delighted with this spot. It will remind him of things human, of living in a land of cultivation again. The first growing trees since leaving Ogden will be seen here, with green grass, shady bowers and flowing fountains. Humboldt House is a regular breakfast and supper station, at which all passenger trains stop for meals. The proprietors have been here quite a number of years, and seem to delight in making their house, and surroundings beautiful and attractive to the traveling public. A fountain surrounded with an iron fence, springs up in front of the house, while gold-fish swim around in the basin below. East of the house, trees, locusts and poplars are growing finely, while the ground is covered with a thick matting of blue-grass. At first this lot was sown to alfalfa, which grew very rank and strong. Blue-grass seed was afterwards sown, and now it has rooted every- thing else out and grows luxuriantly. A field south of the road toward the mountain, has pro- duced 18 tons of alfalfa at one cutting, and has been cut from five to -seven times a year. In the garden north of the house, toward the valley, all kinds of vegetables grow luxuriantly. The average yield of potatoes is 300 bushels to the acre, of the very best quality. We were, how- ever, particularly interested in the experiments made in fruit growing. Here in the midst, almost, of the Great Nevada Desert, with barren- ness and desolation spread out on every hand with a high rocky mountain on one side, and a huge alkali flat on the other, nestled under the towering cliffs as though it would claim shelter and protection, is this Oasis in the desert, this reminder of more genial climes and a more kindly soil this relief from the wearisome, dreary views, which have everywhere met our gaze, over the largest part of the journey. The experiments so successful here prove, beyond a doubt, that the desert can be reclaimed and " made to bud and blossom as the rose." Grit, labor and above all, water, will do it. Here is an orchard of apple trees five years old, bearing not only fruit as beautiful to the eye as that raised in California, but superior in flavor in fact retaining the flavor of eastern apples. These apple trees of all varieties are prolific bearers, and the same is true of the peaches, pears, plums and cherries. In the orchard and opposite the water tank, is a fish-pond some 25 or 30 feet in diameter. In it are trout, great speckled fellows, very thick and very shy. Rocky coves have been built for them in the bottom and center of the basin, and here they hide seeking shade from the rays of the hot sum- mer's sun, and also from those of the silvery moon. The experiments first made with these fish were costly, but have at last proved suc- cessful. This place and its surroundings cause the traveler not only to rejoice over the scene which here greets his gaze, but serves to remind him of home of " God's country " either in the far East or, at this point, in the nearer West. In the fish-pond mentioned, there are a coiiple of wild geese, and a Mandarin duck said to be from Japan. It is a beautiful little creature with tufts of feathers on each side of its head, and finely colored plumage. The proprietors of the Humboldt House, seem to strive to offer attractions to their guests in both their indoor accommodations, and outside arrangements. The station has shippe'd a large number of cattle, and is the shipping point for the sulphur or brimstone, that is manufactured some thirty miles north-west of the place. The old emigrant road spoken of as leading to Northern California and Southern Oregon, winds around the base of Eugene Mountain and near a low butte, re- sembling a haystack, which can be seen in the distance across the alkali flats. This road was laid out by General F. W. Lander, who was killed in the war of 1861, and is said to be one of the best wagon routes to the regions named. The Humboldt House is the place of resort for tourists who desire to visit the sulphur mines, Star Peak, or the mining districts in the Hum- boldt Range, Eugene Mountain, and the Ante- lope Range. The latter is a low range on our right, beginning as we leave this station. In front and south-east of the Humboldt House, is the Humboldt Mining District, four to six miles distant. Humboldt Canon opens in the mountain side, in which was formerly located Humboldt City. Mines were first discovered in the rocky gorges of this range in 1861, and there was a great rush here from all parts of the country. The " City " sprang up as if by magic, and at one time contained about 500 people. Several sub- 195 stantial buildings were erected, a few of which still remain. The mines were diligently pros- pected, but not rewarded with immediate suc- cess, the expenses of living and building being very great, together with the determined hos- tility of the Indians, the people left it as suddenly as they came. The district remained idle until 1874-5, when work was again begun by a few individuals, and the mines are now be- ing re-opened with rich developments and every prospect of success. The ore is gold, silver and argentiferous galena. Antelope District is 16 miles away, in a west- erly direction ; Geneva District is 21 miles dis- tant, in a north-westerly direction ; both of these are but little developed. one and one-half miles distant from the Me Wor- thy Mines. They were formerly known as the Wright and Egbert Mines. This company have a new patented process for refining the crude ore, which they claim has a capacity of ten tons per day, and producing an article which they further claim is superior to that manufactured by any other process yet known. The ore, as it comes from the mine, is a mixture of sulphur, clay, gypsum, water, etc., and the trouble has heretofore been to separate them perfectly and cheaply. This company fuses the crude or mixed ore by heat, and then separates them by a chemi- cal process which is claimed to be very simple, producing the " brimstone " of commerce, nearly 100 per cent. fine. The deposits lie in the hills, TWO BITS TO SEE THE PAPPOOSE. The sulphur mines are 30 miles away, in a north-westerly direction. Very large deposits of native sulphur are found in these mines which will average nearly 75 per cent. pure. There are two mines opened. One called the Me Worthy Mine, located and developed by Mr. Me Worthy, is now operated by a San Francisco company. The product of this mine is refined by retorts, three in number, which are now in active opera- tion, and which are capable of producing about three tons per day of twenty-four hours. The mines of the Pacific Sulphur Company are about and are found from 20 to 100 feet thick. They are also found in some of the adjoining valleys, but are not as pure in the valleys as in the hills. They are covered with ashes and mixed with ex- traneous matter. In fact, wherever these de- posits come to the surface, they are covered with ashes, nearly white in color, indicating that at some period, they were on fire, and that the fire was extinguished smothered by the accumu- lation of these ashes. When " the elements shall melt with fervent heat," the vast sulphur de- posits of Nevada will add fuel to the flames and 196 greatly accelerate the melting process. Hum- boldt is the business center of the mining dis- tricts named, and has bright prospects for the future. The Oregon branch of the Central Pacific Railroad, which was surveyed in 1875, will leave the main line of the Central Pacific, between Mill City and Humboldt, cross the Rabbit Hole Mount- ains, Mud Lakes, thence northerly to Goose Lake, then on to Klamath Lake, and across the Cascade Mountains near Fort Klamath, to intersect the completed railroad in Oregon. This road is to be constructed by an Oregon company, is not a part of the Central Pacific Railroad, but will be a feeder to it, and it is understood that some of the principal owners of the Central Pacific Rail- road are giving it some of their support. It is expected to be in progress next year, and com- pleted between Humboldt and some point on the California and Oregon Railroad, near Eugene City, a distance of 450 miles, within five years. Immediately to the north-west of these mines, and in close proximity around them, is a vast alkali desert covering a large area of ground. Of all the dreary wastes to be seen in this sec- tion of the country, this desert is one of the most forbidding and desolate. About half a mile west of Humboldt, on our right, is a sulphur deposit. It seems to be near the remains of what was once, evidently, a sul- phur spring, long since dried up. It is not worked for the reason of its impurities a far better article of crude is being obtained else- where. The river, still on our right, seems to have cut a deeper channel in the valley, and is seldom seen from the cars. On our left are the towering peaks of the Humboldt Range. The valley itself becomes more undulating, but still retains its dull monotony. A Vigilance Committee Incident. The following incident which happened in one of the Nevada mining towns, is vouched for by Clar- ence King : Early in the fifties, on a still, hot summer's afternoon, a certain man, in a camp of the northern mines, which shall be nameless, having tracked his two donkeys and one horse a half mile, and discovering that a man's track with spur marks followed them, came back to town and told " the boys," who loitered about a popu- lar saloon, that in his opinion some Mexican had stolen the animals. Such news as this demanded, naturally, drinks all round. " Do you know, gentlemen," said one who as- sumed leadership, " that just naturally to shoot these greasers aint the best way? Give 'em a fair jury trial, and rope 'em up with all the majesty of the law. That's the cure." Such words of moderation were well received, and they drank again to "Here's hoping we ketch that greaser." As they loafed back to the veranda, a Mexican walked over the hill brow, jingling his spurs pleasantly in accord with a whistled waltz. The advocate for the law said in an undertone, " That's the cuss." A rush, a struggle, and the Mexican, bound hand and foot, lay on his back in the bar-room. The camp turned out to a man. Happily such cries as " String him up!" "Burn the dogyoned lubricator ! " and other equally pleas- ant phrases fell unheeded upon his Spanish ear. A jury was quickly gathered in the street, and despite refusals to serve, the crowd hurried them in behind the bar. A brief statement of the case was made by the ci-devant advocate, and they showed the jury in- to a commodious poker-room where were seats grouped about neat green tables. The noise outside, in the bar-room, by and by died away into complete silence, but from afar down the canon came confused sounds as of disorderly cheering. They came nearer, and again the light-hearted noise of human laughter mingled with clinking glasses around the bar. A low knock at the jury door, the lock burst in, and a dozen smiling fellows asked the ver- dict. A foreman promptly answered, "Not guilty." With volleyed oaths, and ominous laying of hands on pistol hilts, the boys slammed the door with " You'll have to do better than that." In half an hour the advocate gently opened the door again. " Your opinion, gentlemen ? " " Guilty." " Correct, you can come out. We hung him an hour ago." The jury took theirs next, and when, after a few minutes, the pleasant village returned to its former tranquility, it was " allowed " at more than one saloon, that "Mexicans'll know enough to let white men's stock alone after this." One and another exchanged the belief that this sort of thing was more sensible than " nipping 'em on sight." When, before sunset, the bar-keeper concluded to sweep some dust out of his poker-room back- door, he felt a momentary surprise at finding the missing horse dozing under the shadow of an oak, and the two lost donkeys serenely masticat- ing playing-cards, of which many bushels lay in a dirty pile. He was then reminded that the animals had been there all day. Rye Patch, 411 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,257 feet. In early days, in the canons that put down from the mountains near here and along the banks of the little creeks flowing through them, there were large patches of wild rye, from which the station took its name. The increase, however, in the herds of the stockmen has destroyed its native growth, and it is now seldom seen. It is a small station with a store and saloon, freight-house, side track, 197 etc. It is the location of a ten-stamp mill owned by the Rye Patch Mill and Mining Company, and which is supplied by ore taken from the company's mine in the mountains on our left. This mine is about four miles distant from the station. The Rye Patch Mining District, and the Eldorado Mining District, six miles away, are tributary to this place. The train stops but a moment, and as you look to the mountains, on the left, two high peaks are seen the left one being Stark Peak, and the right one Eldorado Mountain. This is the best view of these mount- ains that can be obtained. Leaving this station, the mountains of the Humboldt Range gradually dwindle into hills, and a conical or isolated little peak across the range is seen. It seems fully as prominent as a wart on a man's nose. It is called Black Knob a very appropriate name and near it is Relief Mine and mill. There is no stage to this mining district, and its principal business point is Oreana, 400 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,181 feet. The descent from Humboldt has been quite rapid, and we will soon be at the lowest elevation in this great basin. The Antelope Range continues on the north-west, and the Humboldt Range on the left, though the peaks in these ranges grow smaller as we pass this place. Oreana is the railroad and business point for the following mining districts : in the Antelope Range is the Trinity District, seven miles away, ore princi- pally milling. The Governor Booth Mine has the most development thus far, though other prospects are said to be looking well. Some of the ore found in this district is claimed to be very rich. Adjoining this is the Arabia Dis- trict, five miles from the station ; it has smelt- ing ore. Three miles from the mine and two miles from the station, on the Humboldt River, which has been dammed at this point, are the smelting furnaces, where the ore is reduced to base bullion. There is also a small stamp mill at this point. The principal mines thus far developed in this district are the Vanderbilt, Montezuma and Hurricane, and the ore is said to average 33 per cent, metal. lead, antimony and silver. South of the railroad first comes the Sacrament District, seven miles away. It has milling ore but the prospects are not yet devel- oped. Spring Valley District is next, 12 miles distant. The ore is gold and silver, and the Eagle Mine has a fifteen-stamp mill in operation reducing the ore. Relief District follows, 16 miles from Oreana. It has milling ore and a five- stamp mill. At the south end of this district, is a very superior mine of antimony, the ores of which are brought to this station and shipped to San Francisco. Bolivia District is 40 miles away, and abounds in copper ore. Tidal Wave is the name of the principal mine ; Kellogg's Mine is next in importance. Conveyances to these mining districts can be obtained at Oreana. The region round about the station is occupied by stockmen, and large numbers of cattle and horses are grazing upon the extensive ranges in the vicinity. No traveler will be able to see what they live on, but stockmen claim that they relish the white sage which abounds here, and that they will grow fat upon it. The very air is heavily perfumed with sage. Leaving Oreana, we pass round a curve where the Humboldt River bends in toward the hills on our left, and soon cross the river which makes its way into Humboldt Lake. After crossing the river, the large growth of sage brush and greasewood shows that the soil in this vicinity is very rich and that, properly cultivated and well supplied with water, it will produce im- mense crops. Lovelock's, 389 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 3,977 feet. It is a side track station with a telegraph office, a store, post-office and a few adjoining buildings. The Humboldt River near here, spreads out over con- siderable territory a fact which renders irri- gation comparatively easy. It has also caused the formation of a large body of natural mead- ows, from which immense quantities of hay are cut and shipped to different points along the line of the road. It is also a fine grazing region and large herds of cattle are fattened here upon the rich native grasses and the white sage. There are three varieties of the sage brush to be found on the plains and on the deserts. The largest kind is used as fuel for the engines at several stamp mills ; white sage is considerably smaller and affords grazing for both cattle and sheep ; the clover sage, still smaller, is not as plentiful as the former kinds, but is highly relished by sheep. Thus we have at last found the uses to which this shrub is applied. Even greasewood, when it first starts up in the spring, and before it hardens, is a favorite food with sheep and swine. There is quite a settlement of farmers near Loveldck's. The station itself is named after a gentleman who lives near it. and who is an old settler in this part of the country. Farms are being cleared of sage brush and greasewood, irrigating ditches are being dug, and the success which has hitherto attended the growing of barley and potatoes, induces quite a number to engage in the business, and a black, rich soil gives every promise of encouragement. Before the railroad came, the meadow or pasture lands here were renowned among the emigrants, par- ties of whom recruited their stock after the wearisome journey across the plains. The meadows are off to the left of the road, as you pass, and are not conspicuous from the cars. After leaving Rye Patch, the Humboldt Mount- ains on our left dwindle considerably, and are neither ragged nor formidable after reaching this place. The same is likewise true of the 198 Trinity Range on our right. They are low, barren, tinged with reddish brown ; the evi- dences of volcanic action become more apparent as we pass, and the broken lava of the desert, the cinders and sconce, visible in places, speak of the time when the mountain ranges near here, were seething volcanoes and vomited forth smoke, flames, fire and lava with great profu- sion. Passing Lovelock's we soon arrive at a point, where a glimpse can be obtained of the waters of Humboldt Lake, just under the mount- ain ridge on our left. We have also passed by the richer soil that surrounds the last station, and entered upon the barren desert again. Granite Point, 380 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 3,918 feet. Approach- ing the sink in this great basin, it will be seen that our elevation is decreasing, but this will only last for a short distance, and then it will be up hill again. On the right of the station, which is merely a side track, there is a ragged, broken mountain, which undoubtedly gives the place its name. It is the only thing curious or interesting to be seen from the cars. As we leave this place the lake comes into full view a beau- tiful sheet of water with white, salty incrusta- tions all around it, like a cloud fringed with a silver border. The waters on the shore nearest the road, are said to be far more brackish and saline in character than those on the farther side. The channel through the lake is on that side, and probably the cause of the difference. The lake abounds in fish but they are mostly in the fresh water channel, and at the proper season it is a great resort for pelicans, wild geese and ducks. We approach nearer the shore as we pass to Brown's, 373 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 3,929 feet. It is a coaling station, and engines sometimes take water from the tank, pumped from the lake, though it is poor stuff to make steam with. Above the nearer range of mountains, just across the lake, can be seen the tops of a farther and higher range in the distance. This higher range runs south of the Humboldt and Carson Sink, and looms into view as the nearer range gives way. Humboldt Lake was not as large formerly as now, in fact it was a simple widening of the river as it entered the gateway of the sink be- low. At the foot of the lake a ridge of land ex- tends nearly across the valley, and there was some- thing of a gorge through which the outlet passed. The opportunity to build a dam was thus improved, and what was formerly a little widen- ing in the river, has now become a lake about 35 miles long and from 16 to 18 miles wide in the widest places. It is filled with islands caused by this rise, and the head or volume of water thus accumulated serves to run a stamp mill, located a few miles below the station and under a reddish bluff across the valley. Ore for this mill has been found in the mountains near it, and some is brought from the range on the north. You will notice an island nearly op- posite the station, and may be interested to know that it was part of the main land before the dam was built. The mountains on each side of the track, now become high hills though, occa- sionally, a ragged peak is seen, to relieve the monotony of the journey. We pass over the ridge of land before spoken of, and fairly enter upon what is the beginning of the Humboldt and Carson Sink. We pass down on the low alkali flats which are whitened with salt, and which extend for miles as far as the eye can reach, off to our left. White Plains, ml miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 3,894 feet the lowest point we reach in this great basin. The place a side track, is appropriately named for it is surrounded by a white alkali desert, covered in places with salt and alkali deposits. The evidences of volcanic action and a lava formation are everywhere visible in the hills and on the plains in this vicinity. Though the plains immediately adjoining the station are white with alkali or salty deposits, yet the ridge and uplands to the right are covered with the reddish, porous rocks and finer blackish sand which always ac- company this formation. At White Plains we have reached the lowest elevation on the Central Pacific, east of the Sierras. We are, in fact, almost in the sink itself of the Humboldt and Carson Rivers. The low flats stretching away to our left, are usually more or less covered with water in the season of floods, and the two rivers virtually unite in this great valley or basin. There is no visible outlet to these streams, or rather to this basin, and the immense drainage of these two rivers sinks in the sand and is taken up by evaporation. The oldest settlers in this region of country, hold to the opinion that the water is taken up by evaporation, and say that at certain seasons of the year this process is very rapid large bodies of land covered with water becoming thoroughly dry in a few days. Leaving White Plains, we again begin to go up a grade. We have to cross a divide between White Plains and the Hot Spring Valley. This divide is reached at Miracfe, 355 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,247 feet. It is simply a side track with no habitation near it but a section- house and is near the summit of the divide. This place, like many others, is named from some peculiarity of location or from some character- istic of the country. The wonderful optical de- lusions that are apparently seen here, have given it a suggestive name. When the conditions of the atmosphere are favorable, wonderful visions of lakes, mountains, trees, rivei's, etc., can be seen. It is reported that many a weary emigrant in the days of old, was deceived by the optical illusions 199 that here seemed so real, and wondered why he did not reach the cooling lakes and spreading shade that seemed so near and was yet so far away. The heat of summer during the day time on these plains is almost intolerable. The dust, sometimes blowing in clouds, is suffo- cating, and long distances add to the incon- venience of wagon travel, without water. But overland travelers on the trains have more comforts. No matter how oppressive the day, yet the moment the sun is set, a lovely cool breeze comes from the mountains, the air be- comes fresh, and sleep is delightful. The heat and dust of the day is soon forgotten in the comforts of the pure, cool night at- mosphere. Crossing a low divide, the end of the Antelope Range we reach Hot Springs, 346 miles from San Fran- cisco, with an elevation of 4,072 feet. This is a tel- egraph station with side track, section-houses, etc. Great efforts have been made here to sink arte- sian wells in order to obtain fresh water for the use of the road. First a depth of 800 feet was reached, then 1,000 feet, and lastly 1,300 feet, but all without success. In some portions of work very rapid progress would be made 95 feet having been made in one day then some hard, flinty rock would be struck, and progress of less than one foot per day would be the result. The station is in the midst of a desert, and is named from the Hot Springs, whose rising steam can readily be seen about half a mile from the track on the left. There are quite a number of them boiling hot. They formerly extended along the base of the hill, still farther to the left, and nearer the track, but while they seem to have dried up in one locality, they have broken out in another. These springs are now owned by a German company, who have a dwelling- house, and works for producing borax, erected near by. They were badly " sold " by sharpers who induced them to believe that borax, in large quantities, could be obtained here. They sent out an expert who was induced to make a favorable report to the effect that there were inexhaustible quantities of the mineral to be found near here. As a consequence, they in- vested large sums of money in the purchase of the mines and in the erection of works. We believe some 60 boxes of the manufactured arti- cle was all that was ever turned out, and then the mine suddenly gave out, the production ceased, of course, and the company, after an ex- penditure estimated. at about a quarter million of dollars, ceased operations, their property re- maining idle. These springs are said to be a sov- ereign remedy for rheumatism and kindred dis- eases, and the property may yet be utilized as an infirmary or watering-place for invalids. The erection of a bathing-house would be all that is at present required. The steam from these springs can be seen for quite a distance in the cool mornings of the winter, and in the spring and fall months. Looking off to the right, as far as the eye can reach, almost, is a valley com- ing in from the north-east a dreary waste of sage brush and alkali, which extends across the track, over low hills, to the sink of the Carson. We move out through a gap in the hills, and in about two miles come to the salt works. Build- ings have been erected, side track put in, and large platforms built where the salt is stored pre- paratory to shipping. The whole face of the country, in this vicinity, is nearly white, the saline water rising to the surface and evaporating, leaves the white incrustations to glisten in the sun. The salt obtained here is produced by solar evapora- tion, and is said to be nearly 99 per cent. pure. Formerly vats were tried, but they were found to be useless and unnecessary. Vats are now dug in the ground and the salt water pumped into them. It soon evaporates, and after a sufficient quantity has accumulated, it is shoveled out, drawn to the station, ground and sacked, when it is ready for the market. We are now passing over one of the most uninviting portions of the desert. The range of mountains directly in front are those through which the Truckee River comes, and the valley, both north and south, extends beyond our vision. Away off to the left we can see the mountains south of the Carson Sink and River. The aspect of the desert becomes more dreary as we approach Desert, 335 miles from San Francisco ; ele- vation, 4,018 feet. It is only a side track, rightly named, and passenger trains seldom stop. The winds that sweep the barren plains here heap the sand around the scattering sage brush like huge potato hills. Now we turn toward the right approaching the base of the adjoining hills, while boulders of lava, large and small, greet the eye. The hill on our right, dwindles into the plain ; we round it, toward the right, and arrive at Two-Mile, 329 miles from San Francisco ; elevation, 4, 156 feet. The gap, in the mountain range in front, now opens and we see where the Truckee River comes tumbling down. The valley extends, on the right, till it is lost in Pyra- mid Lake. We pass rapidly on, and in a short distance pitch down a steep grade into the valley of the Truckee, where green grass, green trees and flowing water, God's best gift to man, again greet our vision. Rabbit drives and Rabbit Robes. The Piutes have a very clever way of catching rab- bits, by a method called " rabbit drives " in this country. They make some long, narrow nets like fish-seines from the bark of the willow, or from wild hemp, and hold them up on edge by means of sticks, which they fasten in the ground at in- tervals ; the part of net next to the ground is held there by weights just as seine is managed. These nets they spread in the shape of the letter "V," with the arms extended to receive the 200 game when it shall be driven in. One Indian crouches in the enclosure for a purpose which will be explained hereafter. The nets are woven coarsely, so that a rabbit's head, once through the meshes, is tight. Late in the fall or early in the winter, when a light snow has covered the ground, the Indians will set their nets generally across some valley and prepare for the "drive." From twenty-five to sixty of them, the more the better, will start out and go quietly away from the net some ten or twelve miles. This company is composed of Indians, squaws, and children armed with sticks, old sacks or blankets which they can nourish in the air, and when they have arrived where they propose to commence the drive, they spread out in a semi-circular form, and begin to hoot and yell, swinging their rags around their heads, and beating the sage brush with their sticks. The rabbits, very much frightened, run in the only direction open for them, while the Indians press forward to the net and gradually draw in to- ward it. The rabbits continue their flight until they are fairly within the arms of the nets, with the Indians close upon them. The Indians, per- haps two or three of them who have remained in the net perfectly still until the frightened rabbits surround them, suddenly rise up with a shout, and the frantic creatures wildly rush hither and thither and finally dash into the meshes of the net, which holds them by the neck so that they cannot escape. Then follows " the slaughter of the innocents." The Indians pass along and tap the rabbits over the head, the squaws secure the game, and the whole drive results in a big feast, wherein the course begins and ends with rabbit ad libitum. Our informant stated that he had known from 500 to 1,000 rabbits to be caught in this way, in one drive. About Rabbit Robes. The traveler has doubtless noticed the gray fur robes, which adorn the persons of a large number of the Indians seen on the road west of Ogden. These robes are a curious piece of workmanship in some respects. They are not made of whole rabbit-skins sewed together, as wolf and coon- skin robes are made. When the rabbits are skinned, their hides are at once cut into narrow strips with the fur on. These strips are sewed together until the right length for a robe is secured, and then they are twisted like a rope in fact, become fur ropes. These are used the same as " filling " in woolen or cotton cloth, as distinguished from the " warp." You can press your fingers through these robes at pleasure the threads of the " warp " being from one to three inches apart. This warp is made from the sinews of animals, from the bark of willows, or from the wild hemp which the Indians gather for this purpose. It is. very stout and very du- rable, and is not perceptible as you casually ex- amine one of these robes. The Indians value a rabbit-skin robe very highly, and much prefer them to blankets, though it takes a good deal of time and patience to make one. This work, however, is all done by the squaws, and is taken as a matter of course by the '*' bucks " of the tribe. Wadsworth, 328 miles from San Fran- cisco ; elevation. 4,077 feet. It is a little vil- lage of about 400 inhabitants, nestled down in the valley of the Truckee and overshadowed by the range of mountains beyond. The railroad has a twenty-stall roundhouse, 65 feet deep, with over 500 feet of circular length. The machine shop has six working stalls where engines are repaired, and is 75 by 130 feet. Engines are here entirely rebuilt. At one end of this shop a piece of ground has been fenced in, a fountain erected, trees planted, and alfalfa and blue-grass sown. It affords a refreshing sight to the me- chanics here employed, and strangely contrasts with the barren desert surrounding the place. The engines used on that part of the division between Winnemucca and this place, have very large tenders, the tanks in them holding 3,800 gallons of water. They run 70 miles without taking water on the line of the road. Other shops for the convenience of the road are located near by. The huge water tank in which water is stored for use of shops and engines, has a capacity of 60,000 gallons. Hydrants have been erected, connected with it by pipes, and hose supplied by which the water may be quickly applied in case of fire, to any part of the buildings. The road passes from Wadsworth to Sacramento through a mountainous region of country, where there is plenty of timber and, hence, wood is used for fuel on the engines between these two places. Between Ogden and this place coal taken from the mines north of Evanston, on the Union Pacific Road, is used. West of Sacramento, coal from Oregon and Washington Territory is used. Between Wadsworth and Truckee some trouble has been experienced with snow, and in some places huge boulders roll down on the track which are knocked out of the way by the snow- plows on the engines. This is a novel use for snow-plows. In addition to the machine shops, there is a large freight building and other offices for the convenience of the company. The town has several large stores, hotels, saloons, with China houses, ad libitum, and is, altogether, the place of considerable trade. Huge freight wagons, from two to four attached together, are here loaded with freight for the mining districts south. These large wagons, with their teams attached, are quite a curiosity to eastern trav- elers, and fully illustrate how western men do their freighting. The following mining districts do business at this station: Columbus, borax mines, 130 miles distant ; Teal's Marsh borax Mines, 140 201 miles away ; the Pacific Borax Works are 20 miles south-east of Columbus still ; the Bellville Min- ing District, 140 miles distant. In this dis- trict the celebrated Northern Bell Silver Mine is located, also the General Thomas and others less prominent. Silver Peak Mining District is 110 miles distant. These districts, and others not named here, are all south of Wadsworth. Rhodes' Salt Marsh, an immense salt deposit, is about 130 miles distant. There is salt enough in this deposit to preserve the world, if reports as to its extent, etc., prove true. there are three bodies of water which travelers will more fully understand by an explanation. Humboldt Lake proper, into which flows the Humboldt River, we pass at Brown's Station. A little south-west of this lake is the Humboldt and Carson Sink the waters from the lake seeping through a channel or slough into the sink. The dam at the foot of the lake is across this outlet or slough. The waters from Car- son Lake flowing nearly east, find their way into this sink through a similar outlet. Thus the waters of the two rivers, the Humboldt PYRAMID LAKE. From Wadsworth to Carson Lake, south, the distance is about 40 miles. This lake is named from the river of the same name, which flows into, or rather through it. Directly south of Carson Lake is Walker Lake into which flows Walker River. The lake last named has no visible outlet, and is one of the sinks of the great basin east of the Sierras. South of the railroad, and Carson, each flowing through a small lake, finally meet in the same sink. To this sink there is no visible outlet, and the vast amount of water which is poured into this basin through these two rivers is undoubtedly taken up on its way, or after its arrival into this common sink, by evaporation. The Humboldt River, though it has a length 202 of 500 miles, and has several tributaries con- stantly flowing into it, yet does not increase in volume, throughout its length, as do most rivers. After passing Winnemucca it diminishes to a small stream, finally spreads into a marsh and " sinks " out of sight. In addition to the mining districts south of the railroad, the Soda Lakes and refining works must not be forgotten. These are now in active operation, and the results are the frequent ship- ments from this place. North of Wadsworth about 21 miles is Pyr- amid Lake, and east of it, .separated by Lake Range of Mountains, which can plainly be seen from Wadsworth, is Winuemucca Lake, 26 miles distant. Both of them are sinks, and have no visible outlet. Both of them receive the waters of Truckee River, and the latter is said to be rising, being several feet higher now than it was ten years ago. Curiosities of Pyramid Lake. In 1867 a surveying party visited this lake, which they found to be 12 miles long and 30 miles wide. The lake takes its name from a remarkable rock formation, a pyramid which towers above the lake to a height of more than 500 feet, and pre- sents in its outlines the most perfect form. Upon visiting this pyramid, the party found it occupied with tenants who were capable of holding their ground against all intrudei-s. From every crevice there seemed to come a hiss. The rattling, too, was sharp and long-continued. The whole rock was alive with rattlesnakes. Even in the party those who had been champion snake exterminators, and had demolished them on all previous occasions, now found the combat beyond their power to carry on, and abandoned the island with all hope of victory. The water of Pyramid Lake is clear, sparkling. In it are said to be fish, principally among which is the comer, very sprightly, with flesh the color of salmon. The weight of the fish ranges from 3 to 20 pounds. There is also said to be an abundance of trout. Winnemucca Lake is also stated to be some 200 feet lower than Pyramid Lake, its basin being on the east side of Lake Range of Mount- ains. The Truckee River and these two lakes are great resorts for ducks, geese and pelicans. The latter abound here in large numbers in the spring. An island in Pyramid Lake is a great resort for them and there, undisturbed, they rear their young. These birds are very destructive to the _ fish of the river and lake. They will stand in the shallow water of the entrance to the lake for hours, and scoop up any unwary fish that may happen to pass within their reach. They are apparently harmless, and of no earthly use whatever. The huge sacks on their under jaws, are used to carry food and water to their young. These waddle around before they fly a shapeless, uncouth mass, and easily destroyed be- cause unable to get out of the way. A man with a club could kill thousands of them in a day, without much difficulty. North of Pyramid Lake is Mud Lake, another sink of this great basin, and a little north-east of Winnemucca Lake is the sink of Quin's River and other streams. In fact, they lose their iden- tity in flowing across the desert, are swallowed up by the thirsty sands. On the north, Pyramid Lake Mining District is 15 miles away. This is a new district, and said to contain good " prospects." Mud Lake District, similar in character, is 75 miles due north from AVadsworth. Black Butte District on the east side of Winnemucca Lake, is about 28 miles distant. The Piute reservation, or rather one of them, begins about seven miles north of the town. The reservation house, which is supposed to be the place where the government officers reside, is 16 miles away. There is another reservation for these Indians south, on Walker River. They have some very good land near the lake, and some of them cultivate the soil, raising good crops. There is considerable good bottom-land on the Truckee River, between Wadsworth and Pyra- mid Lake. That which is not included in the Indian reservation is occupied by stockmen and farmers, much of it being cultivated and pro- ducing excellent crops of cereals and vegetables. The experiments thus far tried in fruit growing have been successful, and in a few years there will be a home supply of fruit equal to home demand. The arrival at Wadsworth is a great relief to the tourist weary with the dull, unchanging monotony of the plains, the desert and bleak desolation which he has passed. The scenes are now to change and another miniature world is to open upon his view. There is to be variety beauty, grandeur and sublimity. If he enters this place at night, the following day will reveal to him the green fields and magnifi- cent landscapes of California, and in less than 24 hours, he will be able to feast his greedy eyes upon a glowing sunset on the Pacific Coast. Leaving Wadsworth we cross the Truckee River and gaze with delight upon the trees, the green meadows, the comfortable farm-house, and well-tilled fields of the ranche on our left, just across the bridge. Like evei-ything else lovely in this world, it soon fades from our vision, as we rapidly pass into the Truckee Canon. The mountains" now come down on either side as though they would shake hands across the silver torrent that divides them. The valley narrows as if to hasten their cordial grasp, and to remove all obstacles in their way. Now it widens _ a little as though it was not exactly certain whether these mountains should come together or not, and wanted to consider the matter. But SCENES ON THE TRUCKEE RIVER. BY THOMAS MOHAN. l.-Truckee Meadows, Sierras in the distance. 2.-Pleasant Valley. 3.-Trueh Kiver. near State I4ne. 4.-Bed Bluff, Truckee Kiver. 6.-Bridge at.Eagle Gap. 6,-Xruckee River Rapids. 204 leaving this question to the more practical thoughts of our readers, we hasten on, winding around promontories and in and out of " draws " and ravines, through rocky cuts, and over high embankments with the river rolling and tumbling almost beneath our feet, and the ragged peaks towering high above us, passing Salvia, a simple side track, six miles from Wadsworth. Now we have something to occupy our attention ; there are new scenes passing by at every length of the car, and we have to look sharp and quick, or many of them will be lost forever. Soon we make a short turn to the right, and what the railroad men call " Red Rock " ap- pears in front, then to our right, and finally over our heads. It is a huge mountain of lava that has, sometime, in the ages of the past, been vomited from the crater of some volcano now extinct ; or it may have been thrown up by some mighty convulsion of nature that fairly shook the rock-ribbed earth till it trembled like an as- pen leaf, and in which these huge mountain piles were thrown into their present position. Pres- ently, amidst the grandeur of these mountains, a lovely valley bursts upon our view. We have arrived at the little meadows of the Truckee, at a station called Clark's, 313 miles from San Francisco, with an elevation of 4,263 feet. This station is named from a former proprietor of the ranche here. It is a beautiful place with mountains all around it, and the only way you can see out, is to look up toward the heavens. The narrow bottom on either side of the river is fenced in, producing excellent crops of vegetables and hay, and afford- ing excellent grazing for the stock that is kept here. As we arrive at this station, we pass through a cut of sand which seems just ready to become stratified, and which holds itself up in layers, in the sides of the cut. Occasionally, as we look over the nearer peaks in front, we can catch a glimpse of the snow-crowned Sierras in the distance. Now a creek comes in from a canon on our left, and through this canon is a wagon road to Virginia City, and now a butte is passed between us and the river the river being on our left since we crossed it at Wadsworth. There are a few ranches scattered along its banks where vegetables for the 10,000 miners at Virginia City are grown. The mountains we have passed are full of variegated streaks of clay or mineral, some white, some red, some yellow, and some pale green. You will notice them as you pass Vista, 301 miles from San Francisco; ele- vation, 4,403 feet. We are going up hill again. At this station we arrive at the Truckee Mead- ows. It is like an immense amphitheatre, and the traveler rejoices again in the presence of farm-houses and cultivated fields in the scene of beauty that spreads out before him. Beyond the level plain, we see in front of us Peavine Mountain and at the base of the hills to the farther side of the valley, lies Reno. To our left Mt. Rose lifts its snow-covered head ; to the left of Mt. Rose is Slide Mountain. Letters. Throughout the Territories and the Pacific Coast, letter days, when the Pony Ex- press, Mail Coaches or Steamer arrived, the local population was wrought up to its most intense excitement, and expectation of news. In the Ter- ritory of Montana letters could not be obtained from any direction by regular mails, and the in- habitants depended upon the good offices of traders, who journeyed at long intervals back and forth, who brought with them letters and newspapers, for which, gladly, every receiver paid $2.50 gold. Letters in California were re- ceived only by steam via the Isthmus of Pan- ama, fully 30 days being occupied in the trip from New York, and fully 90 days' time was necessary to send a letter from San Francisco to any point in the East, and receive a reply. Whenever the semi-monthly steamer arrived at San Francisco, the event was celebrated by the firing of guns, and the ringing of bells, and an immediate rush for the post-office. The let- ter deliveries from the post-office, were often from a window opening directly upon the public street, and a long line of anxious let- ter-seekers would quickly form extending oft- en half a mile in length. Here were gathered the characteristic classes of California life, the " gray shirt brigade " of minei's, many of whom in their rugged life had not heard from home for a full year ; next anxious merchants whose fate depended upon their letters and invoices, and on approaching the office, had only a feeling of dismay at the terrible length of the line, with little hope of approaching the window for hours. At last they were compelled to offer sums for pur- chases of place from some fortunate one in the line. It used to take five hours or longer, on or- dinary occasions, to get to the window, and there were lots of idlers who had no friends, nor ever expected a letter, who from pure mischief, took their places in the line, and then when near the window sold out again. From $5 to $20 were the average prices for fair places, but $50 to $100 were often paid for a good position near the window. Prices were in proportion to the length of the line or the anxiety of the individ- ual. The expression of countenance of some of those paying highest rates, when forced to leave the window without a letter, is beyond descrip- tion. " Selling out in the line," soon became a trade, and many a loafer made his $10 to $20 three or four times a day. Cases have even been known, where over-anxious individuals in search of letters, would take their positions at the post-office window, one or two days before the arrival of the expected steamer, often passing the entire night standing and watching at the window, and only leaving it when forced to seek 205 food and drink. It often happened that while temporarily absent from their post a few min- utes, the steamer's gun would fire, and with a break-neck race of a few minutes back again, their disgust was immense to be compelled to attach themselves to the extreme end of a line, from one-fourth to one-half a mile in length, so quickly had it formed. An Citing's Theology : a Belief in the Devil. A traveler encountered once Ah Ching, a Chinese laundryman, at one of the San Fran- cisco hotels, who spoke some English and had some intellect, of whom he asked the question, whether he believed in the devil. " Hallo, John, do you believe in him ? " "Ah, velley, Mellica man, me believe him," " All Chinamen believe in him ? " " Oh, China like Mellica man, some believe him sahvey, some link him all gosh damn." Firing off the Devil. At one of the Chinese festivals, conducted by the Chinese priests, a large figure representing the devil was brought forward, and at the close of the play a torch was applied to him. The figure, which was full of fire-crackers, " went off " in brilliant style till nothing was left, apparently, but the hideous head and backbone; these, then, shot upward, like a huge Roman candle, leaving a trail of blue fire, and exploded, high in the air, with a loud report followed by a shower of sparks and insufferable stench, and that was supposed to be the last of the devil for another year. The apparent reason for paying so much at- tention to the devil is contained in the answer made by one of the worshipers: "//" God good, why pray? 'Tend to the devil." Hence the cere- mony of getting rid of him at regular intervals. Carious Names Giveti by Miners. Placerville was, in 1849, called Hangtown because it was the first place where any person was hanged by lynch-law. Tin Cup was so named, because the first miners there found the place so rich that they measured their gold in pint tin cups. Pine Log is so named because there was once a pine log across the South Fork of the Stanis- laus River in such a position as to offer a very convenient crossing to miners. The following are among the other oddities which have, through miners' freaks and fancies, been used to denote settlements and camps and diggings, small or large : Jim Crow Canon, Red Dog, Jackass Gulch, Ladies' Canon, Miller's Defeat, Loafer Hill, Rattlesnake Bar, Whisky Bar, Poverty Hill, Greasers' Camp, Gridiron Bar, Hen-Roost Camp, Lousy Ravine, Lazy Man's Canon, Logtown, Git-Up-and-Git, Gopher Flat, Bob Ridley Flat, One Eye, Push Coach Hill, Christian Flat, Rough and Ready, Ragtown, Sugar-Loaf Hill, Paper Flat, Wild-Cat Bar, Dead Mule Canon, Wild Goose Flat, Brandy Flat, Yankee Doodle, Horsetown, Petticoat Slide, Puppytown, Mad Canon, Happy Vallev, Hell's Delight, Devil's Basin, Dead Wood, Gouge Eye, Puke Ravine, Slap-Jack Bar, Bloomer Hill, Grizzly Flat, Rat-Trap Slide, Chucklehead Diggings, Pike Hill, Plug Head Gulch, Port Wine, Ground Hog's Glory, Snow Point, Bogus Thunder, Nary Red, Last Chance, Gas Hill, Greenhorn Canon, Ladies' Valley, Shanghai Hill, Graveyard Canon, Shirt-Tail Canon, Gospel Gulch, Skunk Gulch, Chicken Thief Flat, Coon Hollow, Hungry Camp, Poor Man's Creek, Mud Springs, Humbug Canon, Skinflint, Quack Hill, Pepper-Box Flat, Nigger Hill, Seventy-Six, Piety Hill, Hog's Diggings, Brandy Gulch, Liberty Hill, Love-Letter Camp, Paradise, Blue Belly Ravine, Sluice Fork, Shinbone Peak, Seven Up Ravine, Loafer's Retreat, Humpback Slide, Swellhead Diggings, Coyote Hill, Poodletown, American Hollow, Gold Hill, Pancake Ravine, Centipede Hollow, Nutcake Camp, Seven-by-Mne Valley, Paint Pot Hill. Gospel Swamp, Tit for Tat. When Hepworth Dixon was leaving California, he asked one of our news- paper men to write to him occasionally. " Certainly," replied our knight of the paste- pot and shears, whom we will call plain Smith, " how shall I address you ? " " Simply Hepworth Dixon, England," replied the modest author of " The White Conquest." " All right, Mr. Dixon," responded Mr. Smith, choking down his risibilities by a severe effort, " I trust to have the pleasure of hearing from you in reply." " Certainly, Mr. Smith," replied Dixon, " how shall I address you ? " " Simply John Smith, America," triumphantly replied Mr. Smith. Reno is 293 miles from San Francisco, sit- uated in the Truckee Meadows, the junction of the Virginia & Truckee Railroad, the first point reached from which there are two daily passenger trains to San Francisco, and the best point of de- parture for tourists going west to visit Lake Tahoe. The Meadows, about 15 miles long and eight wide, are mostly covered with sage brush. 206 WINTER FOREST SCENE IN THE SIERRA NEVADAS. BY THOMAS MOKAN. 207 The numerous boulders which also strew the mead- ows, are built into fences, and alfalfa seed sown after digging out the sage brush, and rich pas- turage results on which sheep thrive. Eight or ten tons to the acre are cut in a single season, and farms make handsome returns. The boul- ders are most numerous along the river. Reno has an altitude of 4,507 feet, and, al- though a railroad town only a few years old, is destined to be the prominent city of the State. It was named in honor of the fallen hero of South Mountain has now 2,000 people, and is a county-seat with a $ 30,000 court-house, arid is the gate to the West for all the State, and distrib- uting point for a large portion of it. It has out- run Truckee in competing for the trade of Cali- fornia, east of the Sierras and among the beautiful and fertile valleys north of the railroad, for, from November to May, Truckee is shut in by deep snows, and its roads have steeper grades. Sierra Valley, the Honey Lake Region, Long Valley, Camp Bidwell and Goose Lake Region, Surprise Valley, Indian Valley, Winnemucca Valley, the Pitt River Country, Fort Warner and South-eastern Oregon, all derive their sup- plies, wholly or in part, on wagons from this point. It is the healthiest place in the State and has the most stable population, being sur- rounded with an agricultural region. It has five churches, Congregational, Metho- dist, Episcopal, Baptist and Catholic, and ground will soon be broken here for the erection of a Young Ladies' Seminary, under the care of Bishop Whitaker of the Protestant Episcopal Church, for which $10,000 were contributed by Miss AVolfe of New York City, $5,000 contribu- ted elsewhere, and Reno has supplied the re- maining $5,000 needed. Nevada, by a State law, sets apart one-fourth of one per cent, of her tax for a building fund, out of which the Capitol was erected, at Carson City. About $100,000, since accumulated, has been spent on a State prison, the completion of which is yet in the future. Here are the grounds of the State Agricultural Society and the finest speed-track in the State, two banks, one newspaper the Nevada State Journal and several factories, a steam fire de- partment and a public library. The benevolent orders are well represented, the Masons and Odd Fellows meeting in halls of their own. There are two hotels, the Rail- road House, which is well kept, and the Lake House, on the bank of the Truckee River, a most desirable place for a few days' stay. A daily stage leaves for Susanville, in the Califor- nia portion of the Sierra Nevadas. The Pea Vine District is nine miles north- west, and about 1,500 feet above Reno, in which are valuable mines of dark sulphuret ore the basest worked on the coast, and worked success- fully only of late by the O'Hara process. Virginia <; Truckee Railroad. Leaving Reno, the Red Mountain District is seen on the east, and the Washoe Range with Mount Rose, 8,200 feet high, on the west, and soon the cars pass a flume, 15 miles long, owned by Flood & O'Brien, running through a long canon to Evans Creek to convey lumber to the railroad. Huffaker's is six and one-half miles from Reno, the terminus of the Pacific Wood, Lumber and Flume Company's flume. The next stopping point is called Brown's, and is the terminus of the Eldo- rado Flume, owned by the Virginia & Truckee Railroad Company. This flume starts in White's Canon, and is about six miles long. The first important station is Steamboat Springs, 11 miles south of Reno. They consist of many springs in two dis- tinct groups, those of each group apparently con- nected with each other. Their escaping steam may be seen near the station on the rise to the right of the road, and the fissures, through which the water of 212 Fahrenheit gurgles up, vary from a narrow crack to a foot in width. For- merly they were more active than now, yet at times they spout the water to a height of ten feet. Sulphur abounds in the water, and remarkable cures of rheumatism and cutaneous diseases have been effected, but no reliable analysis of the water has been made. The hotel is a popular resort, kept in first- class style with accommodations for fifty guests. Steamboat Springs are fast becoming famous for mines of cinnabar and sulphur, of both of which this region seems to be full. Much of the sulphur is pure and beautifully crystallized. Cin- nabar is found between strata of lava. The railroad crosses Steamboat Creek, the out- let for Washoe Lake, and then enters Steamboat Valley, which contains about 6,000 acres of good soil with some natural meadow at the upper end. South of Steamboat Valley is Washoe Valley, which is entered by passing through a narrow gorge with large conglomerate rocks, weather- beaten into castellated form. Emerging from the canon, one is in Washoe City, 5 3-4 miles from Steamboat ; it has a few dilapidated houses. Mount Rose, over 8,000 feet high, eternally snow-capped, is di- rectly opposite the lower end of the valley. On the left of the track may be seen the ruins of the old Ophir Mill whose Superintendent was honored with a salary of $30,000 per annum, and a furnished house, while the mill employed 165 men* On the left, at the foot of the mountains, over- looking the beautiful lake and valley, is Bower's Mansion the favorite resort for picnics from Carson and Virginia City. Franktown, 4 1-4 miles from Washoe, is an old Mormon colony, the terminus of another 208 flume, and was the first place settled in this reg- ularly formed and picturesque valley, twelve miles long by seven wide. The long promontories from the mountain side are denuded of timber, but numerous ice-cold crystal streams come down from the mountain side, and the valley produces considerable grain and fruit, and supports no little stock. Mitt Station, 3 miles from Franktown, is an old mill site at the upper end of the valley, from which Washoe Lake, ten miles long and six wide, may be clearly seen. Here is the end of still another flume for lumber and wood ; next is Eagle Valley, reached by a short tunnel. At the summit, or Lake View, 2 miles from Mill Station, commanding the finest view of Washoe Lake, the railroad crosses the large water pipe which supplies Virginia City from a lake on the west- ern summit of the Sierras, above Lake Tahoe. Washoe and Eagle Valleys almost join, and on entering the latter, Carson City and the State Capitol are seen below. Carson City is 21 miles from Virginia City. It was settled in 1858, by Major Ormsby and others, has a population of 4,000, is regu- larly laid out, the streets coinciding with the cardinal points of the compass. Shade trees, the U. S. Mint, the Capitol, Court-house, and some neat private residences, four churches (Presbyterian, Methodist, Episcopalian and Cath- olic), the best school-house in the State, and good society, make it one of the most desirable places for residence in Nevada. It has two daily papers, the Appeal and Tribune. It is the center of a large trade for all parts of South-western Nevada and Mono and Inyo Counties of California. It has three good hotels, the general offices and workshops of the Virginia & Truckee Railroad, and daily stages south to Genoa, 16 miles, Wellington 55 miles, and Aurora 104 miles, connecting Belleville, Columbus, Benton and Independence, and another line to Marklee- ville and Silver Mountain, and the line to Glenbrook on Lake Tahoe, leaving at 10 A. M., time two and cue-half hours, 15 miles, fare The railroad from Carson City to Virginia City, is often spoken of as the Crooked Railroad, so full is it of curves and windings. There are many curves on it of 14, and one of 19, and on one portion of it for 16 miles, there is a contin- uous grade of 90 feet to the mile. This is believed to be the road of which it is said that an en- gineer, badly frightened at the approach of a red light, jumped from his engine, and soon saw that he had been scared by the rear end of his own train. It is fifty-one and three-quarter miles long, and has 35 miles of side track. Forty to fifty trains daily pass over it, and it is probably the best paying railroad in the country. The railroad between Carson City and Vir- ginia City is full of interest, passing along a con- tinuous line of reducing works on the Carson River, and mines on the slope of Mount David- son. Proceeding through Eagle Valley to Virginia, there may be seen off to the right, the State Prison, two and one-half miles from Carson, an edifice whose architectural appearance is befit- ting its purpose. Adjoining, as if it was the same building, are the Carson Warm Springs and its hotel, one of the choicest spots for an attractive resort. The great volume of water boiling from the rocks, supplies a succession of large plunge baths for a distance of 160 feet. The first station from Carson is Lookout, 2 1-4 miles from Carson, and next Empire, 1 1-4 miles farther, the location of a quartz mill of the same name. Half a mile farther on is Morgan, named from the Morgan Mill, the only steam quartz mill along this end of the road, and another mile brings the train to Brunswick, another quartz mill. Cord- wood will be seen filling the river here, floated down from the mountains, by different compa- nies, to be caught and distributed. Merrimac, still another quartz mill, is only half a mile from Brunswick, and Eureka, i.e., Eureka Dump, is two and three-fourths miles farther. The mill is situated below, and the road turns almost directly away from the river, and rapidly ascends the side of the Mount Davidson Range, climbing to the lofty peak to which Vir- ginia City clings. The peak and city are not far away, but the road makes many windings and curves, and it is long before the terminus is reached. Mound Souse is 1 34 miles from the Eureka Dump. Along here the road is without curves for a long distance for such a crooked railroad as this is. It is the depot of supply for Dayton and Sutro, and soon it is expected there will be a new road opened to Columbus, via Walker's Lake, on which a steamer will be placed, thus saving four days' time for freight- wagons to Columbus, and making what will be the favorite route for passengers by a line of stages leaving the Mound House every morning, on arrival of the 4 p. M. train from San Fran- cisco. At Silver, three miles from Mound House, there is a dump for ore which is caught in cars and carried on a narrow gauge horse railroad for two and one-half miles to mills at Silver City. Scales, a station for weighing ore. Silver City is to be seen down in the ravine, and the road makes a horseshoe curve around American Flat, on the farther side of which is seen the city of Gold Hill. Gold Hill. As the traveler approaches, he sees evidence of mining in every direction 209 abandoned shafts, puffing engines, smoke issu- ing from gigantic stacks, huge mounds of earth dumped from the end of high trestle-work, the capacious buildings and the posts and stones that mark the undeveloped claims, or the loaded ore, need no explanation as to their origin or pur- pose. Gold Hill follows the ravine of the same name, and the street is both steep and crooked. It has a population of 6,000 and is, in all respects, like Virginia City. The two are built up so as to be without marked separation. Gold Hill has a vigorous daily paper, the " Gold Hill News," a Catholic, a Methodist, and an Episcopal Church. a great credit to the city and the land of sil- ver. Its narrow streets show with what diffi- culty sites are obtained for buildings, whether anchored to the rocks or perched in mid-air, and, while in the city but little of it is visible at a time, the dwellings are mostly low, and, there- fore, unstable roofs do less damage when the Washoe zephyrs blow. It appears small, but is the most densely packed of all American cities. One-third its people are underground, where lighted candles glimmer faintly in subterranean passages, by day and by night. Bedrooms do double duty for hundreds or thousands, whose work never ceases. Miners are shifted every eight STREET SCENE IN VIRGINIA CITY, NEVADA. Virginia City and Gold Hill are connected by a line of omnibusses, making four trips every hour during the day, while the frequent trains of the railroad carry also many passengers. By rail the distance to Virginia City is two miles, in which several tunnels are passed through. Virginia City is one of the most interesting towns on the coast. One expects streets of gold and silver, and finds dust or mud. On October 26, 1875, it was almost wholly destroyed by fire, but the burnt district has been rebuilt more handsomely than ever. Its population now exceeds 20,000. A first-class hotel, The In- ternational, has been erected, in all respects 14 hours, and the men of two shifts may occupy the same couch. On many levels, down 2,000 feet, are thousands of busy, bustling, narrow streets, over which is the city proper. Tide-water is 6,205 feet below the banks, and perhaps it is best that it is no 'nearer, for now pumps are constructed to raise the water to the surface from 3,000 to 5,000 feet below, only seven of which are capable of raising 4,000 gallons every minute. Dwellings on the side-hill overlook one another without any appearance of aristocratic preten- sions, and steps and foot-ladders are continually at hand. 210 The streets present a busy appearance with men of all classes, and occasionally women, watch- ing the indicator of the San Francisco stock- market as anxiously as a gambler reduced to the " bed rock " watches for the playing of the hand against him. Saloons are numerous and crowded, and pro- fanity fearfully prevalent. It is a city of extremes in prices, speculations, character, activity, enterprise, debauchery and home life. The rich and the penniless are side by side. Every notion and ism is advocated every nation represented by the worst and best of the race except the horrible Celestial, who is always called bad, but is even somewhat like " the Englishman of character and the English- man of no character to speak of." The lazy Indians that lounge about the street, rich with a loaf of bread, a blanket, a string of beads and some feathers, are no poorer than hundreds who will have nothing until they sober up, and at the other end are the owners ot wealth incomprehen- sible by any system of counting all glittering and golden-hued in a vast firmament of riches, as great as the reality of idlest dreams. Here the world has seen, not one, but at least four, richer than Croesus ; with lamps, rings and slaves better than Aladdin's ; four Bonanza kings, each with a mountain of treasure greater to carry than the horrible Old Man of the Sea, but which no modern Sinbad would shake off with delight. One says, " The gods here worshiped are heathen deities, Mammon, Bacchus and Venus. The temples are brokers' offices, whisky shops, gambling hells and brothels. There is wonder- ful enterprise, much intelligence, some refine- ment, not a little courtesy, and a sea of sin." The view from the city is picturesque and sorrowfully beautiful. Off to the south and east the eye ranges over a waste of sage brush, and the face of the whole country appears like the waves of an angered sea, broken the more be- cause they can go no farther. The Carson River can be seen stretching off toward its sinking place in arid sands, and the twenty-six mile desert will deceive the unthink- ing, and add a faint lake-like look to the picture, of which the Walker and Sweetwater Ranges and endless mountains' rosy light and heaven's blue dome, all add their beauty. But to enjoy the best view, make the ascent of Mount Davidson, about 2,000 feet above the city, and nearly 8,000 feet high. One need not climb, but may ascend it on horseback by following up the ravine from Gold Canon. When he reaches what seems from the street to be the top of the mountain, he sees another summit as far beyond, but the latter gained the view is magnificent. Below, on the west, is a beautiful lake two or three miles in diameter, "glistening like the silver of the mountains which it covers." Reno, the Carson Valley, valleys, mountains, rivers, lakes, and deserts may be seen in every direction for a hundred miles. Or, if it is too fatiguing to ascend, whoever is the fortunate possessor of a note of introduction to some mining superintendent, may prepare for a visit to the world below. Donning brogans, woolen socks and coarse flannels, he will step on the cage, holding his breath, his heart feeling gone, and as the water drips around him down the shaft, his feeble lantern will not remove the queer sensation of the descent. Once below, there are cuts, and cross-cuts, drifts, winzes, stopes and a maze of strange words, sights and sounds. Here is explained the use of the squared timbers seen by the car load, passing from the Sierras to Virginia City. As worthless rock or treasured ore is removed, the excavation must be replaced almost as solid as the rock it- self. The huge timbers are mortised and fitted to each other with the utmost precision ; ladders lead from level to level. Cars convey the ore to the shaft, and up and down the busy cages are always going. Every minute a loaded car as- cends from a quarter of a mile below and is re- placed by another. The engineer tells by an indicator the precise location of the cage at any moment, and by varying the signals to him, he directs the movements for passengers with greatly decreased speed. If time permits, ride over to the Sutro Tunnel, six miles from Virginia City. It once promised well, may benefit the Comstock Lode more than its friends have ever dreamed, but from present appearances the real contest concerning it, was not in Congress, nor opposition from the mines it aims to tap, but has yet to come. As a specimen of engineering it will repay a visit. With indomitable energy it is pushed forward, and has now penetrated nearly three miles. The average progress is 90 feet per week, and tunneling was never done elsewhere, more speed- ily or successfully. Mines of Virginia City. The discovery of the Comstock Lode, was made in 1857, by men in pursuit of gold placers. They came upon some mineral new to them, which a Mex- ican recognized as silver ore. Comstock at an early day, was a middle-man in the purchase of an interest in the lode, and his name thus became attached to it. As explorations were made, very rich ore was found near the surface, and soon a great excitement was created, and vigorous oper- ations commenced, which were crowned with wonderful success. The Ophir Mine, and the Gould & Curry, at an early day began to pay dividends, and continued to do so without inter- ruption for several years. The Savage and the Hale & Norcross were later in becoming known, and their period of prosperity continued after the others had gone into decline. These are all Virginia City Mines. The Kentuck, Crown Point, Yellow Jacket, Chollar Potosi, 211 and Belcher, which have all paid dividends and others less widely known, are in Gold Hill. Neither of them became successful as early as the Ophir and Gould & Curry. The original discoverers of these mines " located " them, as miners say, that is, posted upon the property a notice of claim in writing, of which they filed a copy with the recorder of the mining district. The regulations in reference to locating claims differed slightly in different districts. Usually not over 2,000 feet along the length of a vein could be located in one claim, and no one could claim over 200 feet except the discoverer, he be- ing usually allowed 300, and sometimes 400 feet. Under the present United States Mining Law no single claim for 'over 1,500 feet can be made, whatever number of persons join in it, and the discoverer is accorded no advantage over others. Feet in length along a vein, are always stated and understood to carry all its depth, spurs and angles, that is, its whole breadth and depth be they more or less, for the length claimed. Veins are usually only a few feet wide, but sometimes extend miles in length. The Comstock Lode has been traced for five miles, but its greatest breadth so far as yet known, is between 300 and 400 feet, and no other silver vein in the State of Nevada approaches it in breadth, and some are worked which do not exceed 6 inches. In early days dealings in mines were by feet, and not by shares. The Ophir Mine comprised 1,400 feet for instance, and was sold on the stock-board by the foot. An owner of 100 feet owned a four- teenth of the mine. Gradually the selling by feet was abandoned, and only shares were dealt in, and those have been divided up very small, in order to bring speculation within the compass of persons of small means. The Ophir Mine has been divided so that each original foot is repre- sented by seventy-two shares. The incorpora- tions of all the mining companies on the Com- stock Lode, and their offices have always been in San Francisco, and the men who live immedi- ately over and about the mine, cannot buy or sell stock in them except by letter or telegraph to " The Bay." In the development of this mineral lode, three distinct periods may be marked. For some time after its discovery, prosperity continually at- tended operations on it somewhere along its length, and often at all points. All the mines named above paid dividends, and very few assess- ments were made. The ore lying within 800 or 900 feet of the surface was finally exhausted along the whole vein, and dividends fell off, assessments became frequent, and great depres- sion followed. This continued until patient exploration revealed, several hundred feet deeper, a rich ore body, in the Crown Point and Belcher Mines, which produced an amount of bullion hitherto unexampled in the history of the vein, dividends amounting to a million a month com- ing several months in succession. This body of ore was worked out 'in time, and depression fol- lowed again, until the discoveries in Consoli- dated Virginia, also at great depth, brought the vein once more into prominence. These surpass anything yet on record, in silver mining. The Big Bonanza Mine. For more than a year this mine has divided $1,080,000 monthly, and there is no sign of exhaustion. The follow- ing figures, which were furnished at the com- pany's office, give a fair view of the operations of this mine : During 1875, and the three first months of 1876, the bullion receipts of this com- pany were twenty-four million eiyht hundred and fifty thousand, Jive hundred and twenty-four dol- lars and eighty-four cents ($24,850,524.84). In March, 1876, were worked 24,991 800-2,000 tons of ore, which produced $3,634,218.92 in bullion, the average product per ton being $145.40. The above bullion weighed about 56 tons. The bullion from this mine and others on the Comstock Lode is very pure, and on an average is about .045 fine in gold, and .950 in silver, leav- ing only about .005 of base metal. The propor- tion of gold to silver varies, and with it the value of the bullion per pound. A shipment, which represented a fair average, was of 50 bars of 1186,998 stamped value, and weighing 5,741 Ibs. avoirdupois, thus representing a value of $32.57 per Ib. Had this been pure silver, it would have been stamped $18.81 per Ib., and the excess above that, is for the gold in the bullion. It may surprise one to be told that silver bullion, carrying so large a portion of gold, shows no trace of it. A bar of gold and silver, in equal proportions, would scarcely differ in color from a pure silver bar. Its weight would, however, re- veal the presence of the gold, at once. When six or seven-tenths are gold, its color begins to show. The valuable product obtained from the ore was over seventy-two per cent, of its assay^ value during the month reported above. It is not usual to obtain a better result than this without roasting the ore before amalgamation. It will interest one, not familiar with mining, to notice how small in both bulk and weight the bullion product is when compared with the amount of ore handled. During the month referred to, four hundred and forty-six tons of ore, which would make a mass 10 feet high, 20 feet wide and 30 feet long, yielded only one ton of bullion, which could be melted into a solid cube 18 3-5 inches on a side, or 1,560 cubic feet of ore were worked to obtain,one cubic foot of bullion. Reduction of the Ores. The ores at this place are worked without roasting by the pan process of American origin, first adopted on the Comstock Lode. It is suited admirably to ores which work kindly, requiring little chemical action or heat to make them part with their 213 precious contents, to be taken up by amalgama- tion with quicksilver. Though it rarely yields as close a result as the Mexican patio process, or the furnace and barrel process of Freiberg, it is so much more expeditious and economical of labor, and so capable of being applied on a large scale, that, on the whole, it is unquestion- ably preferable. The other processes referred to have been thoroughly tried in Virginia City, and found utterly unsuited to the conditions existing there. The first part of the process, is wet crushing of the ore, by stamps in iron mortars, a constant stream of water carrying off through a brass wire screen the pulverized portion as fast as re- duced small enough. The screens are at the back of the mortar. Five stamps, weighing about 650 pounds each, are usually placed in a single mortar, and are lifted and dropped from five to eight inches about ninety times a minute. The feeder, standing in front, judges by the sound when and where to feed in the ore lying behind him. He is expected to feed two batter- ies of five stamps each, which are usually placed in one frame, and run by a single shaft. Some mills have twelve such batteries or sixty stamps. The amount crushed by a stamp in twenty-four hours for work never stops day or night varies with the fineness of the screen, the character of the ore, and the skill of the feeder, and is from one to two and a half tons a day. Automatic machinery for feeding batteries is now introduced in many mills. The stream running constantly from the bat- tery is received in a series of tanks and settled as much as possible, the deposit from it being coarse sand at first, and fine sediments at last. The fine sediments are called slums, and must be thoroughly mingled with the coarse sand in the after process, for though often containing the richest portion of the ore, the atoms are so im- palpably fine, and adhere to one another so closely, as to elude the mechanical agencies em- ployed to obtain the precious metal they bear, and, if worked by themselves, carry away nearly all they are worth with them. By mingling them with the sand in as nearly as possible the same proportion in which they come from the stamps, they become broken up, separated and distributed through the whole mass of pulp, and are persuaded to give up the most of the silver they hold. This silver is not in metallic form, but combined with sulphur, chlorine or antimony for the most pai't. Chlorides of silver easily and sulphurets more reluctantly part from the base with which they are united, and amalgamate with quicksilver. Antimonial silver not only refuses to do this, but obstructs the process on the part of other silver compounds with which it may be associ- ated, and is, therefore, dreaded by all silver mill- men who do not roast their ores ; but the com- pounds of silver at Virginia City, are chiefly chlorides, and antimonial silver ores, though they occur there, are found in small quantities only. To effect this amalgamation of the silver in the ore with mercury, the crushed pulp is now placed in quantities of one to two tons, some- times even more, in an iron pan, five or six feet in diameter and thi'ee to four feet deep, and ground and stirred by a revolving muller, till all the coarse sand is reduced fine. The muller is then raised and the grinding ceases, but the agi- tation is continued, and a large body of quick- silver is introduced, and steam is also let either into the body of the pulp, or a false bottom under the pan, so as to heat the whole mass, the amal- gamator in charge standing by and testing it with his finger, thinning it with slums of water, thick- ening it with coarse sand, shutting off the steam or letting more on, as his judgment dictates, till the temperature and consistency suit. This pro- cess is continued from three to twelve hours, ac- cording to the richness and the kindly or refract- ory temper of the ore. Poor ores must be rushed through, that a large amount may be worked. Kich ores, after yielding handsomely, may still obstinately retain more value than some poor ones ever carried. The pulp is kept thick enough to float minute atoms of quicksilver, and is made to roll over and over by wings on the sides of the pan and on the muller, until all the amalgamation that can be effected is accomplished, when the motion is diminished, and the charge in the pan drawn off into a large settler on a lower level, where it is diluted with a large volume of cold water, and slowly stirred, and the quicksilver atoms uniting, gather in a body at the bottom and are drawn off through a syphon. Meantime, a stream of water running through the settler, carries off the earthy contents, and finally, when quicksilver ceases to gather, the settler is drawn off nearly to the bottom and made ready for the contents of another pan. It is usual to have one settler for two pans, and give half the time to settling that is occupied in grinding and amalgamating. The silver and gold, so far as they have been taken up, are now held by the quicksilver. This is strained through long, deep, conical, canvas bags, and the tough amalgam obtained is placed in close iron retorts, the quicksilver distilled out by fire ; crude bullion results, which is melted in a crucible and poured into moulds, and when weighed, assayed and stamped with its value, is ready for market. The discharged ore from the settler is called tailings, and is often caught in large reservoirs, and after lying months or years, as the case may be, is worked through the pans and settlers again, and this process is sometimes repeated several times, especially if ore becomes scarce. The practice of different mining companies as to the disposition of their tailings, varies exceed- 214 ingly. So long as ore is plenty, no pains are taken to save them. They never have been worked so closely as not still to carry several dollars to the ton value in precious metal. The process employed at Virginia City, is in use wherever silver is mined on the Pacific Coast, with such modifications as differences in the char- acter of the ore demand. Some ores are so re- fractory as to require roasting. They are first dried thoroughly, then crushed dry, next roasted to expel sulphur, antimony, zinc, etc., and then treated in pans and settlers as if crushed wet with- out roasting. The process is expensive, but has some compensation in the closer percentage of assay value obtained, and smaller waste of quick- silver. The loss of this metal in amalgamating unroasted ores, amounts in various ways to from two to four pounds for each ton worked. Some of it combines with chlorine in the ore, and is converted into calomel. This is lost beyond re- covery. Some of it is volatilized by the heat in the pans, and some escapes through the joints of the retorts, and this also is lost finally, and sometimes hurts workmen exposed to the fumes. Most of it is lost by not being gathered in the settler. It goes off in minute atoms, carrying gold and silver with it. This is partly recovered by working the tailings, or by running them over blankets in sluices which entrap enough of it to pay well for the cost of the process. Sinks of the Great Nevada Basin. One of the most wonderful natural features of that part of the Continent lying between the Wahsatch and Sierra Nevada Ranges of Mount- ains, is the Great Desert and its numerous sinks. The sink of the Great Salt Lake has already been alluded to. It is a great natural curiosity of itself. It receives the waters of an immense region of country, and, though gradually rising, is still confined to its banks, and gives off its sur- plus waters by evaporation. There is no evi- dence whatever that it has a subterraneous out- let. Between it and th^ sinks of the Nevada Desert, there is an elevated ridge and broken ranges of mountains, with gaps and valleys be- tween them. This whole desert has evidently been a lake, or an inland sea, at some time, while the mountains have been islands in it. Passing the ridge, or low divide between the broken mountains, which separates the Great Salt Lake from the desert beyond, and we ar- rive at the sinks of the Nevada Basin. The first is the Humboldt Lake, which has been de- scribed. Then the Humboldt and Carson Sink, which, unlike the Great Salt Lake, receives the waters of both the Humboldt River and Lake and the Carson River and Lake, flowing from opposite directions ; and, in the hot months of summer, when evaporation is greatest, is very nearly dry. On the other hand, in the spring, when the snows of the mountains melt, or when heavy rains occur in the winter and spring months, causing a large flow of water in the Humboldt and Carson Rivers, these lakes of the same name nearly always rise together, and the vast salty plain, in and around the sink, becomes a lake of great size. There is no evidence of any subterranean outlet to the waters that flow info this large sink. On the contrary, those who have noticed the rapidity with which water dis- appears from a tub or other vessel exposed to the sun and air in this region, have no difficulty in be- lieving, in fact almost seeing, the process of evap- oration going on, by which the waters are drunk up and scattered over the earth in clouds, to be again distilled in rain. Walker Lake, which receives the flow of Walker River, is another one of these mysteri- ous sinks. It is off to the south of Carson Lake. The river rises in the Sierra Nevadas and flows in a general easterly direction, till its waters are swallowed up by the sands of the desert, or lost through the same process men- tioned elsewhere. There are also numerous streams rising in the mountains, assuming large proportions by the time they reach the valleys, but the sands of the desert soon drink them dry, and they are " lost to sight." North of the Central Pacific, about 20 miles from Wadsworth, are the sinks of Pyramid Lake, Winnemucca Lake and Mud Lake, the latter being a considerable distance north of Pyramid Lake. These bodies of water at times quite large, are called fresh water lakes, though they are brackish and abound in fish. North- east of Winnemucca Lake is Quin's River, quite a large stream near its source in the mountains of Idaho ; but it becomes lost in the desert, on its way, apparently, to Winnemucca Lake. These lakes and the desert are the mighty sinks which drink up the water that is not evaporated, but sometimes evaporation gets the best of them. North-west of Mud Lake, over in California, is Honey Lake, another remarkable body of water. It is sometimes dry so that teams can be driven across its bed, arid then again it is on the ram- page. Its waters resemble soap-suds, and are admirably adapted for washing purposes. When lashed by the winds, its waters become a rolling mass of foam, and afford a magnificent specta- cle to the beholder. If it only had permanent water of the character alluded to, it would be an excellent location for a huge laundry. Staye Itoittes to Lake Tahoe, A favorite route to Lake Tahoe is via Carson City. It may be more easily reached and seen on the west- ward tour, than to wait and include it on the eastward return. After a visit to Virginia City, the tourist will return to Carson City, remain over night at a good comfortable hotel, the Ormsby House, whose proprietor considers it " lite highest toned hotel in Nevada" and next morning, at 8.30 A. M., take Benton's Stage for Tahoe. 215 216 To visit and make the circuit of the lake, and return to Carson will require at least 18 hours, but most tourists will find it desirable to stop at the little hotel on the opposite side of the lake, and return via Truckee, thus seeing greater variety of scenery. Tourists by this route to Virginia City, Carson and Tahoe, will be obliged to leave the Overland Western train at Reno, about 11.40 p. M., and a comfortable night's rest can be enjoyed at the Railroad Hotel. In the morning a train leaves at 7.35 A. M., and arrives at Carson at 9.00 ; after taking one hour for breakfast, the tourist can either proceed to Virginia City and spend the day, or take immediate departure for Lake Tahoe. Private team or special stage can be engaged at Benton's by any party, for a ride to the Lake at any special time. On this route there is the best known of all California stage-drivers, who have reined kyuse or mustang horses, the modest Hank Monk. His first fame was not on the platform of Faneuil Hall in oratory, but in the streets of Boston, with eight horses abreast, well trained to the voice and whip. He has driven stage in California and Nevada, since 1852, and made the distance between Carson and Virginia, 21 miles, in one hour and eight minutes. His ap- pearance and gait do not indicate much energy, but he drove Horace Greeley 109 miles in 10 hours, fast enough toward the end of the journey, and as long as he can wake up his pets with a strong voice or far reaching whip, he will not fail to get his passengers through, " on time." But to the credit of others, it should be said, that California and Nevada have hundreds of drivers not less skillful and reliable than the favorite Monk. The route to the lake lies first south, through the Carson Valley, toward Job's Peaks and Silver Mountain, always beautiful with snow. In the clear atmosphere, the first will appear only a few miles away, but it is still more than twenty miles distant. The stage road turns west, up Clear Creek Canon, through which comes the Twenty- one Mile (V shaped) Flume of the Carson & Ta- hoe Lumber Company, through which 700 cords of wood, or half a million feet of mining timber can be daily delivered at Carson City from the summits of the Sierras. Along the canon are many towering, sun-burnt rocks, weather-beaten and worn into weird and fantastic shapes, and these and the swift-descending timber, splashing the water up many feet at every turn, to sparkle in the sunlight, the Carson Valley spread out below, with the Pine Nut, Walker and Sweet- water Mountains on one side, and the Sierras opposite, always attract and delight the lover of bold mountain scenery. At the summit, the flume connects with the Lake Tahoe N. G. Railroad, 9 miles long from summit to Glenbrook on shore of the lake. The distance is but three miles by wagon road, 6 miles less than by the R. R. The railroad is worked only in the summer months after much of it has been sought out and found with shovels, and is exposed to damage and de- struction from avalanches of snow or rock which come thundering down the steep sides with re- sistless force. Near the summit it has the enor- mous grade of 180 feet to the mile. This pas- sage over the eastern summit of the Sierras is made where the range is depressed and the view, though beautiful, is far too contracted to fully gratify the traveler. Below, lies Lake Tahoe, girt with everlasting pine-clad hills whose snowy masses and evergreen foliage mingle with the deep blue of an inland sea, yet only a small por- tion of its beauty can be seen. Lake Tahoe, This great body of fresh water, 25 miles long, on an average ten wide, about three-fourths in California, and one-fourth in Nevada, has an elevation of a mile and a quarter, and has been sounded to a depth of 3,000 feet. Through glacial action in past ages, ice must have been piled up in the valley of this lake 3,400 feet high. It never freezes, is smooth as glass and clear as crystal, permitting the trout to be seen or pebbles counted at a depth of 80 feet. Its water changes color to a beautiful emerald or almost indigo blue according to the depth, and when disturbed by the fierce mount- ain winds, its waves lash the shore with foaming fury. At Glenbrook, five steamers will be found, three of which are employed for the mills, and the others, the " Niagara " and " Stanford " will convey tourists, not exceeding 200 in number, around the lake. Glenbrook is the business center of the whole region that borders on the lake. It has four saw-mills with an aggregate capacity of five million feet per month, running 11 1-2 hours per day, also a planing mill. Captain Pray, the oldest settler, is a large land-owner, and much of the 200 acres in the ranche on the shores of the lake, is covered with a beautiful sod of timothy and clover. In the State there is no finer land, and as the captain and other mill-owners will rent none for saloon purposes, Glenbrook, with a summer population of 500, is a temperance town. The Glenbrook Hotel, usually kept in first-class style, is usually open each season, if not, comfortable accommo- dations can still be found at the Lake Shore House, for $20 a week, without extra charge for the use of boats. Shakespeare Rock, a remarkable curiosity, is a bold, perpendicular rock on which the profile of the great poet's face is outlined with great accuracy. From Glenbrook there is a charming drive on the old Placerville Road, past Cave Rock, and around the head of the lake to Rowlands or 217 Yank's. The road was constructed at great ex- pense a single mile near the rock, costing $40,- 000. The only other drive, of note, is from Tahoe City to Sugar Pine Point. The whole of the lake is not visible until the steamer has run out a little distance from the shore. Then its generic name is rather fitting. " Tahoe," in the Indian, signifies " big water," and is the name for ocean. The shore slopes gently, in places, for two miles to a depth of from 30 to 50 feet, then breaks sometimes ab- ruptly as at the Bluffs of Rubicon or Observa- tory Point, to a depth of 600 or 800 feet; and off Sugar Pine Point is the greatest depth yet found. The water is clear as crystal, and the tempera- ture in summer, when taken from considerable depth, very near the freezing point. The fare across the lake is $2.50, and around, $5. The steamer must lie idle half the year, and reasona- ble fares may seem thus high. Leaving Glen- brook for a circuit around the head of the lake, the first object of interest is Cave Rock, three and one-half miles from Glenbrook, about 400 feet high. This appears in the engraving from Moran's sketch made from the point just south of Glenbrook, and looking south and west. After passing the rock, and looking back, it resembles the Great South Dome of Yosernite, split in two, and the cavern, 30 feet in length, is seen about 100 feet above the ground. The line of solid masonry and bridge for the road can just be traced from the point where the artist stood. Leaving Cave Rock, Zephyr Cove is three miles south. Beautiful meadows afford fine pasturage, and being on the east side, the earliest vege- tables are here grown. The mountain's wall shows plainly its broken but regular character. From the main ridge, a cross spur is thrown out, but this must again be broken into a succession of small canons and " divides." Just south of the cave is the old Friday Ranche, well known by the pioneers who were "on the way to Washoe" and the Kingsbury Canon, through which the road crossed the mountain to Genoa. In other days, the toll re- ceipts on the Kingsbury grade were $500 a day. Rowlands, 14 miles from Glenbrook, at the head of the lake, on the Old Placerville Road, was the first place of resort on the lake and originally called the Lake House. It has greatly changed from the day when J. Ross Browne was a guest, and the host " seemed to be quite worn out with his run of customers, from a hundred to three hundred of a night, and nowhere to stow 'em all cussin' at him for not keepin' provis- ions, with but little to drink, except old fash- ioned tarantula-juice, warranted to kill at forty paces." It has now two stores and a post-office, with accommodations for tourists at moderate price. Lake Valley appears, from a distance, like a large, pine-covered flat. It is 14 miles long and six wide, partly covered with timber, and having much grazing land of the best quality. The stock that pastures in these fertile valleys of the lake, is all driven out before the winter snows begin. Between Rowlands and Yank's, is the terminus of Gardner's Rail- road, a successful enterprise for lumbering. It will soon be extended from six to ten miles. Yank's is 4 miles from Rowlands, and at the south-west end of the lake, just west of and with convenient access to Lake Valley, and is situated on a grassy sward, in a beautiful grove of tamaracks interspersed with tall pines and quaking aspens, with a pebbly beach gently sloping from Teliae Point, commanding a view of the whole lake, with convenient access to Teliae Mountain, and only two miles from Fall- en Leaf Lake, another beautiful sheet of water, three miles long and one and one-half wide, at the head of which are excellent Soda Springs. Teliae Mountain is easily recognized from its long, flat summit, and may be ascended via Fall- en Leaf Lake and a steep canon. The view from the summit is one of the finest on the Con- tinent. To the east, looking across Lake Valley and the beautiful Tahoe, the eastern summits do not shut out the country beyond, for Carson Valley and much of Nevada are in sight. On the west, are the great valleys of central California, beyond them the Coast Range, and scattered among the countless snow and purple peaks of the Sierras, there nestle thirty-six lakes in sight, varying from the deep, dark blue of Tahoe to the bril- liancy of silver beneath a noonday sun. Horses and boats are always to be had at Yank's. Twenty dollars per week is the price of board ; boats are charged for at city prices for carriages. " Yank" is a soubriquet to mark the Green Mount- ain origin of the host, Mr. E. Clement. The tourist will need no further introduction, but should be informed that Yank spends his winters at the lake and sees snow come down the mount- ains and accumulate around his buildings. Of all places on the lake, none is more truly beautiful for situation, than Yank's and it is a favorite resort. Leaving Yank's, the steamer heads north and proceeds four miles to Emerald Bay, passing two well-rounded peaks at the foot of which is a beautiful valley, in which lies Cascade Lake. This, too. is accessible from Yank's and is one of its attractions. The point just north of the en- trance to Emerald Bay was long the home of America's pride among the birds, and is named Eagle Point. Emerald Say is a gem of beauty entered on the south side of a narrow strait, as shown on our title-page. It is two miles long by about three-fourths of a mile wide. The entrance is shoal, but the bay deep. Near the head of the bay is a little granite island, with a few small trees and shrubs, and the unfilled tomb of an 218 eccentric tar Captain Dick who prepared the island for his own mausoleum, in which he in- tended to place himself on the approach of death, but his drowned body became food for the fishes, and the lonely cross marked an empty tomb. This charming bay is owned by Ben Holladay, Jr. His summer residence is surrounded by a grove of willows and a stream fed by eternal snows, pouring down in three successive lofty waterfalls, which rival in grace and beauty some of the smaller in Yosemite, keeps the grassy sward always green, and plays in a fountain before the door. The surrounding hills are so steep that they can be climbed only with great difficulty. Just opposite the island, on the north side, there is the mark of an avalanche of snow, that carried the tall pines before it like shrubs, and has left the mountain side completely bare. Rubicon Point and Bay, and Sugar Pine Point are next passed, going north on the way to McKinney's, ten miles from Emerald Bay. At McKinney's, there is no large house, bnt 13 cottages and pleasant surroundings. The road to Tahoe City, gives this the advantage of a pleasant drive. Board may be had at $20 a week. Continuing north, the steamer passes Black- wood Creek, where some towering rocks are seen whose height is scarcely comprehended, because the trees and mountains beyond are on so great a scale. Small as they seem, they are two hun- dred and fifty feet high, and the trees at their base not less than 200 feet. Ward's Bay lies north of the Creek, and Bawker's Peak, a sharp, high point, is back in the mountains. Tahoe City is eight miles from McKinney's, and one of the loveliest spots on the lake. It is at the source of the Truckee River, the only outlet of the lake, and has the " Grand Central," the largest hotel on the Sierras, with accommodations for 160 guests, and kept by those excellent hosts, Bayley & Moody. This is the most con- venient point of access for tourists from Califor- nia. The road to Truckee is down the beautiful canon of the Truckee River, through a noble forest of pines, invigorating and delightful at every step. Sail and row-boats of all kinds may be had at this point, and also carriages ; but the prices should be agreed upon beforehand. No boats are kept for the use of the hotel. Board at the Grand Central may be had, vary- ing from $3.00 to $4.00 per day, according to rooms. The view of the lake from Tahoe City is not excelled, and equalled only at Yank's and the Hot Springs. The hotel and other accommodations are supe- rior to all others on the lake. Besides the Grand Central, there is the Tahoe House, kept by Cap- tain Pomin. Tourists who desire to spend only one day in visiting the lake, take stages at this point to Truckee, 12 miles down the river. Trout. At Tahoe City there is a trout estab- lishment of much interest; and another, on a larger scale, on the river half way to Truckee Station. The water is admitted to a series of ponds, each pond being appropriated to trout of a different size. The eggs are taken during April, May and June, when the fish ascend the river and the creeks, to spawn. The eggs are stripped from the female and impregnated by stripping the male fish into the same vessel in which the eggs are contained, and then placed on inclined shelves or tables where about half an inch of water runs gently, but steadily over them. The temperature of the water affects the time of hatch- ing, and the desire is to have the water as cold as possible at the expense of time to produce the hardier fish. One trout contains about 7,000 spawn. Twenty-five cents is charged for admis- sion to the fishery, and the privilege of fishing in the ponds granted for twenty-five or fifty cents a fish, according to the size. The fishing in the lake is done by trolling. Spoon-hooks are sometimes used, but early in the season it is necessary to have some shining de- vice to attract attention besides a minnow on the hook. The fisheries have been quite success- ful in hatching fish, but not profitable. At first nearly all died ; now nearly all are raised. The young fish are nourished for several days after birth by a portion of the egg from which they are hatched remaining attached to them till it is absorbed, and then are fed on mashed fish, the yolks of eggs and liver, and the large trout are fed on suckers and white fish caught in the lakes with seines. Of course no trout are caught in seines, for this is contrary to law. After they have grown to weigh several pounds, they will increase at the rate of a pound a year. The quantity caught in a year can not be esti- mated. Many are never sent to market, and they are caught in both the lake and the river as well as in Donner Lake. From the Truckee River alone, 170,000 pounds were caught last season, half of which were ship- ped to Virginia City. In the lake there are at least four kinds, two of which are most commonly known. These are the silver trout and the black trout. The silver trout are most highly esteemed, are always taken in deep water, and attain a size of thirty-two pounds. The silver trout of Donner Lake grow from eight to ten pounds, and those in the river are not so large. The black trout run up the creeks sooner in the spring than the silver, but the latter can pass over greater obstacles than the former. The white fish found in the lake are quite un- like those of the Great North American Lakes. While the tourist who merely crosses the lake from Glenbrook to Tahoe or vice versa, or who 219 desires to reach the Central Pacific Railroad, with the loss of one day only will not make the entire circuit of the lake ; others will visit the north end, and some may prefer this alone. Continuing around from Tahoe City, Burton's or Island Farm is two miles from Tahoe City. It is a lovely spot, with summer green meadows and pebbly beach, and accommodates at reason- able cost, 25 or 30 people. It is a favorite resort for California clergymen needing rest. Burton's is connected with Tahoe City by a carriage road, and is not too far to exercise at the oars of a small boat. Passing around the north end of the lake, there is next, Observatory Point, where the great telescope of James Lick was expected to be erected, and beyond this is Carneliaii Bay, and Carnelian Beach, so called from fine specimens of chalcedony here found. Here is Doctor Bournes' hygienic establishment. Beyond this, are Agate bay and then Camp- bell's Hot Springs, ten miles from Glenbrook. and on Boundary Point, because it marks the dividing line between California and Nevada. The water boils out in several places in great volume. The hotel is comfortable; the charge $3 a day ; the entire lake is seen from the house, and the baths are an advantage to be had no- where else on the lake. There is a stage from this point to Truckee, and the stages from Tahoe City will also carry passengers thence to the springs. Fishing and boating and driving can be en- joyed at pleasure, and in the hills there are a few grouse, quail, deer, and bear, but game is not plentiful. The Lumber and Trees of the Lake Region. The logs which are brought down to the lake at various points are towed to Glenbrook in V-shaped booms, from 50 to 70 feet wide at one end, and about 150 feet long, averaging 200,000 feet of lumber. The sugar pine is the most valuable, then the yellow pine. The black, or " bull " pine was long despised, but is now highly prized for its strength. It reaches, in California, a diameter of 15, and height of 200 feet; about the lake, a diameter of 10 feet. The leaves are of a dark green color, but the cones are enormous some- times 18 inches long. The wood is fine grained and solid, soft and clear. The yellow pine is not quite so large, seldom exceeding 10 feet in diameter, and has bark fur- rowed into plate-like sections, six or eight inches wide, and from 12 to 20 inches long. The " bull " pine is a favorite with the wood- pecker for storing his acorns, not in the hollow trees, but by drilling holes in the bark, and fit- ting an acorn into each. Old woodmen say the bird never makes a misfit, and selects, the first time, a nut which will exactly fill the hole he has drilled. In the valleys of California, nearly all large trees are utilized in this way. There are two kinds of fir, the white and the red. The latter called also the Douglass fir, is a good strong timber ; the former is the least esteemed in the market. Other pines of the Sierras are interesting, but notice of all must be omitted except the Nut or " Digger " pine, so called from a sweet or oily seed forming a staple article of food for the Indians, but it does not grow in the high Sierras. It is dwarfish and scraggy, without one main trunk, but dividing up into several. It is said that this is so liable to " draw " while seasoning, that miners who were compelled to use it for building their cabins, were not sur- prised to see them turn over two or three times in the course of the summer. As two daily passenger trains leave Reno for San Francisco, one arriving via Vallejo in eleven and a quarter hours, and the other via Stockton in seventeen and a half hours, from the time of leaving Truckee, the tourist econo- mizing time, will take the former, leaving Truckee at midnight. By leaving at 3 A. M., daylight will soon fol- low in the summer months, and the fine scenery of the Sierras be more enjoyed. To see the mountains, the best plan is to stop at the summit, where there is another of the first-class hotels of James Cardwell, and gain the views from the peaks near by, and then descend the mountain by a freight train, leaving the summit at 5.30 A. M., and reaching Sacramento the same evening, at 7.45. For this, one must be willing to exchange the Palace car for the caboose, and accept delay in exchange for the leisurely enjoyment of the most wonderful rail- road scenery in the world. The Great Nevada Flume. A PERILOUS RIDE. By H. J. Ramsdell, of The N. Y. Tribune. A 15 mile ride in a flume down the Sierra Nevada Mountains in 35 minutes, was not one of the things contemplated on my visit to Virginia City, and it is entirely within reason to say that I shall never make the trip again. The flume cost, with its appurtenances, between $200,000 and $300,000. It was built by a com- pany interested in the mines here, principally owners of the Consolidated Virginia, California, Hale & Norcross, Gould & Curry, Best & Belcher, and Utah Mines. The largest stockholders are J. C. F16od, James G. Fair, John Mackey, arid W. S. O'Brien, who compose, without doubt, the wealth- iest firm in the United States. The mines named use 1,000,000 feet of lumber per month underground, and burn 40,000 cords of wood per year. Wood here is worth from $10 to .$12 a cord, and at market prices, Messrs. 220 Flood & Co., would have to pay for wood alone, nearly $500,000 per year. Virginia City is not built in a forest. From the top of Mount Davidson, which is half a mile back from the city, there is not a tree in sight, except a few shade-trees in the city. Going into the mines the other day, and see- ing the immense amount of timber used, I asked Mr. Mackey where all the wood and timber came from. " It comes," said he, " from our lands in the Sierras, 40 or 50 miles from here. We own over 12,000 acres in the vicinity of Washoe Lake, all of which is heavily timbered." " How do you get it here ? " I asked. " It comes," said he, " in our flume down the mountain, 15 miles, and from our dumping grounds is brought by the Virginia & Truckee Railroad to this city, 16 miles. You ought to see this flume before you go back. It is really a wonderful thing." The Journey. When, therefore, two days afterward, I was invited to accompany Mr. Flood and Mr. Fair to the head of the flume, I did not hesitate to accept their kind offer. We started at four o'clock in the morning, in two buggies, the two gentlemen named in one buggy, and Mr. Hereford, the President and Superintendent of the company (which is known as the Pacific Wood, Lumber and Flume Company) and myself in the other. The drive through Washoe Valley, and along the mountains, up and down for 16 miles over a road which, for picturesqueness, is without an equal in memory, can not be described. Not a tree, nor bush, nor any green vegetation was in sight. Hills and mountains, well defined and separate in character, were in every direction. Sage brush and jack rabbits were the only living things in sight. That beautiful purple atmos- phere or mist, which has a dreamy, sleepy effect in the landscape, overspread the mountains and extended through the valley. The road we traversed swung round and round the mountains, now going nearly to the summit, and now descending to their base. Both teams employed were of the best, and in less than an hour and a half we had accom- plished the first part of our journey, 16 miles. Here we breakfasted and went to the end of the flume, a quarter of a mile distant. The men were running timber 16 inches square and 10 feet long through it. The trestle-work upon which the flume rested was about 20 feet from the ground. The velocity of the movement of the timber could scarcely be credited, for it re- quires from only twenty-five minutes to half an hour for it to float the entire length of the flume, 15 miles. The flume is shaped like the letter V, and is made of two-inch plank nailed together in the above shape. Across the top it is about two and one-half feet in width. The ends are very care- fully fitted, so that where the planks go together there may be no unevenness ; for timbers going at the rate of 15 to 60 miles per hour must have a clear coast. In this trough the water runs from Hunter's Creek, which is situated about 20 miles from the terminus of the flume. Some idea of the swiftness with which the timber runs through the flume, may be had when it is stated that in the flume there floats 500,000 feet of lumber every day (about ten hours), or 500 cords of wood. Near the terminus an iron break is placed in the trough, slanting toward one side, so that when the timber comes rushing down, 50 or 100 pieces, one after the other, each piece is turned toward the side, and the men at the break, with a dexterous use of the crowbar, send them bounding to the ground. I climbed to the top of the trestle-work, be- fore the timber began to come. It was like the rushing of a herd of buffalo on a party of hunt- ers, and I preferred to view the flume, in active working, from a distance. We changed teams upon resuming our journey, taking fresh horses for the mountain ascent. Horsemen in the East who have never seen the mountains of Nevada, Colorado and California, can have no idea of the amount of work a horse can do, and of the difficult places through which he will go, and of the load he will carry or draw. How a pair of horses can pull a buggy and two men up a grade that seems half-way be- tween the horizontal and the perpendicular, over stones and fallen trees, and through underbrush six feet high and very thick, is a question I can never hope to solve ; at any rate, we reached the lower mill of the company, about 18 or 20 miles. This was several hours before noon. The mill is situated in the lower belt of tim- ber, and there are between 400 and 500 men at work. This number includes those engaged in cutting trees, hauling logs, and sawing the lum- ber. How the heavy machinery of the mills, and the engines which work them were brought from the city up the mountains and placed in position, is another mystery which I have not tried to investigate. The amount of lumber turned out by the owner of these mills, the upper and the lower, the former being two and one-half miles farther up the mountain, is marvellous. In five minutes' time, a log from two to four feet in diameter is reduced to lumber, planks, scantling, boards, and square timber, perhaps all from the same log, for it is cut in the most ad- vantageous manner. Sometimes one log will give three or four different kinds of lumber. The lower mill is kept running night and day, and has a capacity of 50,000 feet per day cf small stuff, and of 70,000 feet when working on large timber. 221 SUMMITS OF THE SIEEKAS. BY THOMAS MOKAN. 222 The upper mill has less than half the capacity, being smaller, and being worked only 12 hours a day. The Flume. The flume is a wonderful piece of engineering work. It is built wholly upon trestle-work, and stringers ; there is not a cut in ,the whole distance, and the grade is so heavy that there is little danger of a jam. The trestle-work is very substantial, and is un- doubtedly strong enough to support a narrow gauge railway. It runs over foot hills, through valleys, around mountains, and across canons. In one place it is 70 feet high. The highest point of the flume from the plain, is 3,700 feet, and on an air line, from beginning to end, the distance is eight miles, the course thus taking up seven miles in twists and turns. The trestle- work is thoroughly braced, longitudinally and across, so that no break can extend farther than a single box, which is 16 feet ; all the main sup- ports, which are five feet apart, are firmly set in mud-sills, and the boxes or troughs rest in brackets four feet apart. These again rest upon sub- stantial stringers. The grade of the flume is between 1,600 and 2,000 feet from the top to lower end, a distance of 15 miles. The sharpest fall is three feet in six. There are two reservoirs from which the flume is fed. One is 1,100 feet long, and the other 600 feet. A ditch, nearly two miles long, takes the water to the first reservoir, whence it is conveyed 3 1-4 miles to the flume through a feeder capable of carrying 450 inches of water. The whole flume was built in 10 weeks. In that time all the trestle-work, stringers and boxes were put in place. About 200 men were employed on it at one time, being divided into four gangs. It required 2,000,000 feet of lumber, but the item which astonished me most was that there were 28 tons, or o6,000 pounds of nails, used in the construction of this flume. To the lower mill, as the road goes, it is about 40 miles from Virginia City. Although I had already ridden this distance, yet I mounted a horse and rode two or three miles to the top of the mountain, where I had one of the finest valley views that come to the lot of man. Miles and miles below, the valley was spread out with spots and squares of green crops growing, and barren wastes of sand and sage brush reach- ing in a long stretch to the base of another spur of the Sierras. The City of Reno occupied a little spot on the plain from my mountain it seemed like a city of toy houses built on Nature's carpet. A Ride in the Flume. Upon my return I found that Mr. Flood and Mr. Fair had arranged for a ride in the flume, and I was challenged to go with them. Indeed, the proposition was put in the form of a challenge they dared me to go. I thought that if men worth $25,000,000 or $30,000,000 apiece, could afford to risk their lives, I could afford to risk mine, which was not worth half as much. So I accepted the challenge, and two boats were ordered. These were nothing more than pig-troughs, with one end knocked out. The " boat " is built, like the flume, V shaped, and fits into the flume. It is composed of three pieces of wood two two-inch planks, 16 feet long, and an end board which is nailed about two and one-half feet across the top. The forward end of the boat was left open, the rear end closed with a board against which was to come the current of water to propel us. Two narrow boards were placed in the boat for seats, and everything was made ready. Mr. Fair and myself were to go in the first boat, and Mr. Flood and Mr. Hereford in the other. Mr. Fair thought that we had better take a third man with us who knew something about the flume. There were probably 50 men from the mill standing in the vicinity waiting to see us off, and when it was proposed to take a third man, the question was asked of them if anybody was willing to go. Only one man, a red-faced carpenter, who takes more kindly to whisky than his bench, volun- teered to go. Finally, everything was arranged. Two or three stout men held the boat over the flume, and told us to jump into it the minute it touched the water, and to " hang on to our hats." The signal of " all ready " was given, the boat was launched, and we jumped into it as best we could, which was not very well, and away we went like the wind. One man who helped to launch the boat, fell into it just as the water struck it, but he scam- pered out on the trestle, and whether he was hurt or not, we could not wait to see. The grade of the flume at the mill is very heavy, and the water rushes through it at rail- road speed. The terrors of that ride can never be blotted from the memory of one of that party. To ride upon the cow-catcher of an engine down a steep grade is simply exhilarating, for you know there is a wide track, regularly laid upon a firm foundation, that there are wheels grooved and fitted to the track, that there are trusty men at the brakes, and better than all, you know that the power that impels the train can be rendered powerless in an instant by the driver's light touch upon his lever. But a flume has no ele- ment of safety. In the first place the grade can not be regulated as it can on a railroad ; you can not go fast or slow at pleasure ; you are wholly at the mercy of the water. You can not stop ; you can not lessen your speed ; you have nothing to hold to; you have only to sit still, shut your eyes, say your prayers, take all the water that comes filling your boat, wetting your feet, drenching you like a plunge through the surf, and wait for eternity. It is all there is to hope for after you are launched in a flume-boat. I 223 can not give the reader a better idea of a flume ride than to compare it to riding down an old fashioned eave-trough at an angle of 45, hang- ing in midair without support of roof or house, and thus shot a distance of 15 miles. At the start, we went at the rate of about 20 miles an hour, which is a little less than the av- erage speed of a railroad train. The reader can have no idea of the speed we made, until he compares it to a railroad. The average time we made was 30 miles per hour a mile in two min- utes for the entire distance. This is greater than the average running time of railroads. Incidents of the Hide. The red-faced car- penter sat in front of our boat on the bottom, as best he could. Mr. Fair sat on a seat behind him, and I sat behind Mr. Fair in the stern, and was of great service to him in keeping the water, which broke over the end-board, from his back. There was a great deal of water also shipped in the bows of the hog-trough, and I know Mr. Fair's broad shoulders kept me from many a wetting in that memorable trip. At the heaviest grade the water came in so furiously in front, that it was impossible to see where we were going, or what was ahead of us ; but, when the grade was light, and we were go- ing at a three or four-minute pace, the vision was very delightful, although it was terrible. In this ride, which fails me to describe, I was perched up in a boat no wider than a chair, some- times 20 feet high in the air, and with the ever varying altitude of the flume, often 70 feet high. When the water would enable me to look ahead, I would see this trestle here and there for miles, so small and narrow, and appar- ently so fragile, that I could only compare it to a chalk-mark, upon which, high in the air, I was running at a rate unknown upon railroads. One circumstance during the trip did more to show me the terrible rapidity with which we dashed through the flume, than anything else. We had been rushing down at a pretty lively rate of speed, when the boat suddenly struck something in the bow a nail, or lodged stick of wood, which ought not to have been there. What was the result? The red-faced carpenter was sent whirling into the flume, 10 feet ahead. Fair was precipitated on his face, and I found a soft lodgment on Fair's back. It seemed to me that in a second's time, Fair, himself a powerful man, had the carpenter by the scruff of the neck, and had pulled him into the boat. I did not know that, at this time, Fair had his fingers crushed between the boat and the flume. But we sped along ; minutes seemed hours. It seemed an hour before we arrived at the worst place in the flume, and yet Hereford tells me it was less than 10 minutes. The flume at the point alluded to must have very near 45 inclination. In looking out before we reached it, I thought the only way to get to the bottom was to fall. How our boat kept in the track is more than I know. The wind, the steamboat, the railroad never went so fast. I have been where the wind blew at the rate of 80 miles an hour, and yet my breath was not taken away. In the flume, in the bad places, it seemed as if I would suffocate. The first bad place that we reached, and if I remember right, it was the worst, I got close against Fair. I did not know that I would sur- vive the journey, but I wanted to see how fast we were going. So I lay close to him and placed my head between his shoulders. The water was coming into his face, like the breakers of the ocean. When we went slow, the breakers came in on my back, but when the heavy grades were reached, the breakers were in front. In one case Fair shielded me, and in the other, I shielded Fair. In this particularly bad place I allude to, my de- sire was to form some judgment of the speed we were making. If the truth must be spoken, I was really scared almost out of reason ; but if I was on the way to eternity, I wanted to know exactly how fast I went; so I huddled close to Fair, and turned my eyes toward the hills. Every object I placed my eye on was gone, be- fore I could clearly see what it was. Mountains passed like visions and shadows. It was with difficulty that I could get my breath. I felt that I did not weigh an hundred pounds, although I knew, in the sharpness of intellect which one has at such a moment, that the scales turned at two hundred. Mr. Flood and Mr. Hereford, although they started several minutes later than we, were close upon us. They were not so heavily loaded, and they had the full sweep of the water, while we had it rather at second hand. Their boat finally struck ours with a terrible crash. Mr. Flood was thrown upon his face, and the waters flowed over him, leaving not a dry thread upon him. What became of Hereford I do not know, except that when he reached the terminus of the flume, he was as wet as any of us. This only remains to be said. 'We made the entire distance in less time than a railroad train would ordinarily make, and a portion of the time we went faster than a railroad train ever went. Fair said we went at least a mile a minute. Flood said we went at the rate of 100 miles an hour, and my deliberate belief is that we went at a rate that annihilated time and space. We were a wet lot when we reached the terminus of the flume. Flood said he would not make the trip again, for the whole Consolidated Virginia Mine. Fair said that he should never again place him- self on an equality with timber and wood, and Hereford said he was sorry that he ever built the flume. As for myself, I told the millionaire that 224 I had accepted my last challenge. When we left our boats we were more dead than alive. We had yet 16 miles to drive to Virginia City. How we reached home, the reader will never know. I asked Flood what I was to do with my spoiled suit of English clothes. He bade me good night, with the remark that my clothes were good enough to give away. The next day, neither Flood nor Fair were able to leave their bed. For myself, I had only strength enough left to say, " / have had enough of flumes" RENO TO SAN FRANCISCO. Proceeding from Reno, directly to San Fran- cisco, the line of the railroad is along the Truckee River. The meadows grow narrower, and the mount- ains approach on either side, then widen again in Pleasant Valley. Verdi is 283 miles east of San Francisco, has three stores and a planing mill ; de- rives its impor- tance from the lumber trade, and its notoriety from the robbery o f the express and mail cars, of an overland train. The scenery is now becoming fine; Crystal Peak may be seen on the right, and win- ter moonlight nights will add charms to make the views more lovely and unique between this point and Truckee. Then the mount- ains, denuded at their base of all timber, and the shrubs and stumps buried in deep snow are of un- fa r o k e n, silvery white, while the lofty pines, farther up the steep sides or on the rounding tops, form a veil of green, and above all irregular, fleecy clouds float fantastically by, as if a silvery mist in the valleys was rising over the dark peaks, mingling light of many shades, SNOW SHEDS ACROSS THE SIERRAS. while exulting clouds, glide smoothly and silently along the azure sky. The Truckee River foams, as its rapid waters battle with the rocks, and it is crossed and re- crossed on Howe truss bridges, and the mount- ains, often precipitous, show their volcanic origin in masses of basaltic rock. Essex, 282 miles from San Francisco, is a side track at which passenger trains do not stop. Bronco, 273 miles from San Francisco, is a meeting place for trains with a store and a summer station-agent. Soon after leaving the station, there will be noticed a post marked " State Line," standing on the 120th merid- ian west of Washington D. C., and this passed, the traveler is in the Golden State of California. Between Bronco and Boca, at what was Camp 18, a flag station has just been located and named Dover. Boca, a tele- graph station, is 267 miles from San Francisco, with a population of about 150. It is at the mouth of the Little Truckee River, and is the Spanish name for "mouth." The only business is that of the Boca Lumber Mill and Ice Company, and the Boca Brewery, the latter the larg- est on the Pacific Coast, and on ac- count of the equa- ble temperature, expected to pro- duce the best lager- beer in the world. About 8,000 tonsof ice are cut yearly from the pond. The cold is some- times severely felt, the mercury standing at 22 be- lowzeroduringthe winter of 1875-6. Prosser Creek is 265 miles from San Fran- cisco at the mouth of a creek of the same name, called from a hotel keeper in early days. It is a flag station, and the terminus of a flume for sev- eral milling stations, and the ice-field for two 225 companies that supply San Francisco. Continu- ing west 3.3 miles, we reach Proctor's, 262 miles from San Francisco, but trains do not stop. On the left will be noticed a large tract of flat land covered with timber, or stumps, and a rariche or two. Across this and over the range of hills beyond, lies Lake Tahoe, but keeping to the river, 3.2 miles from Proctor's, we reach Truckee, 259 miles from San Francisco, the dividing line between the Truckee and Sacramento divisions of the railroad, with a roundhouse for 24 engines. It has a tri- weekly newspaper, the Republican, and is the most import- ant town in the Sierras, on account of the business done, as a summer resort, and be- cause of its convenience to other favorite resorts. It is the seat of a large lumber trade, and would be ben- efited by the establishment of an exten- sive fire insur- ance business. The town was burned in 1868, 1869, twice in 1870, in 1874, and "ChinaTown" in 1875. The prevail- ing winds are west, and in summer one might think the great width of the street is designed to pre- vent fires from the locomotive sparks, but in winter the more probable suggestion is that it is for the convenience of piling up the snow when the people shovel out their houses. The population is about 1,500, nearly one-third of which are Chinamen. A large number of good stores are arranged on the north side of the street, and considerable trade carried on with Sierra and Pleasant Valleys on the north. Its hotels are first-class the " Truckee Hotel," where the train stops, and the Cardwell House across the wide street and a little removed from the noise of passing trains. Many desiring the benefit of mountain air, and the convenience of the railroad, spend their summer months in 15 GALLERY IN SNOW SHEDS, C. P. B. B. Truckee, from which Donner Lake is distant only two miles, and Tahoe 12. Stages leave Truckee on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays for Randolph, 28 miles, time four hours, and fare $4 ; Sierraville, 29 miles, time four and one-fourth hours, fare $4 ; Sierra City, 60 miles, time ten hours, fare $8 ; Downieville, 72 miles, time twelve hours, fare tf 10 ; Jamison City, 55 miles, time ten hours, fare $8, and Eu- reka Mills, 58 miles, time ten and one-half hours, fare $8. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays for Loyalton, 30 miles, time five hours, fare $4 ; Beckwith, 45 miles, time seven and one-half hours, fare $5. The stages leaving on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, are also the stages for Webber Lake, 1 6 miles north of Truckee, and Independ- ence Lake, about the same distance. At each of these is a good hotel. Webber Lake is about the size of Donner, en- circled by high, s n o w- capped mount- ains, but beau- tified by a rim of fer- tile meadow around its pebbly beach. Card well's stages leave the summit daily, passing along Donner Lake to Truckee, thence to Tahoe City on Lake Tahoe. Fare from the summit to Tahoe, $2.50. Truckee to Tahoe, $2 ; John F. Moody, of the Truckee Hotel, also runs an elegant open coach, of the Kim- ball Manufacturing Company, between Truckee and Tahoe City, daily, fare $2 ; and Campbell's stages leave every morning for Campbell's Hot Springs on Lake Tahoe. Truckee was named after General Fremont's old Indian, who was engaged to guide the un- fortunate Donner party across the Sierras. It is full of business and beauty in summer and win- ter. Here, among good hotels, is the best place in the Sierras to be snowed in, although twice as much snow may be seen falling at the summit. 226 A Snow-Storm at Truckee. At mid- night, the mountain peaks stood clear and white, with deep shadows here and there, and above, a cloudless sky ; but, at daylight, a foot of new snow lay upon many previous snows. The one-story houses were hid from view. While the air was full of falling flakes, busy men were shoveling off the roofs of their dwellings shoveling all the while, and half a hundred Chinamen were loading cars with snow from the railroad track to throw it down some steep mountain side. Men are coming in with their shoes in hand not number thirteens, but thir- teen feet long, and stand them up against the wall. These snow- shoes are about six inches wide, turned up in front like the runner of a skate, and wax- ed to make them slip easi- ly over the snow. Near the middle is a leather that laces over the instep (a skele- ton half -shoe), and out of which the foot will slip in case of a fall or acci- dent. A long pole is carried like a rope-dancer's to preserve a balance, and to straddle-and sit upon for a brake, when descend ing a hill. They are essential to safety in these storms. MABY'S LAKE, MIRROR VIEW. As I watched the falling snow, nothing could exceed the beauty. As it curled and shot through the air, the mountains were shut out with a gauzy veil and darker mists. Now and then I caught a glimpse of a clump of pines on the mountain side, indistinct and gray in shadow, and as the fitful snow favored the straining eye, the long white boughs seemed bending as if con- scious of the enormous weight that threatened every living thing. When the clouds broke suddenly away, a flood of golden light leaped from hill to hill. The tall pines, partly green, but now like pyramids of snow, lift their heads above the mountain sides. But in less than fifteen minutes after the first sight of the sun, a long stratum of dark cloud came down the mountain, and the snow falls thicker and faster than ever. Its hard crystals were driven so furiously as to make one's cheeks burn, and give exquisite torture to the eyelids. I looked upon the rapid river, and around its snow-capped rocks the water played in foaming cascades. The enormous snow-plows at length grappled with this monster of the elements. From east and west came reports of ava- lanches, snow sheds down, trains wrecked and snow-bound, and soon the telegraph refused to do its bidding. The ponder- ous engines were thrown from the rails in the streets, before our eyes, by the hard crystals .which they crushed into glacier-like ice. With five of them behind the largest snow-plow o n the road, we started toward the summit. The snow flew and even the ground trembled, and every piece of the short snow sheds was wel- comed with joy and misgiving. The blinding snow, I thought, will cease to fly, but suppose that, when crushed into ice like granite, it lifts the ponderous plow of 30 tons, or that we go crashing into the shed prostrate beneath twenty or forty feet of snow ; or that an avalanche has come down and our way lies through the tangled trunks of these huge Sierra pines ; five boilers behind that may soon be on top of us. Never before did I realize the need of the snow sheds, but I often rebelled against the shut- ting out of nature's mountain charms from the weary or unoccupied traveler. Let the discontented not forget that five feet of snow may fall in one day ; that twenty and thirty feet may lie all over the ground at one 227 TUNNEL NO. 12, STRONG'S CANON. time ; that forty and fifty feet are sometimes to be seen, where the road-bed is secure beneath it, and that the canons often contain a hundred feet. These capacious reservoirs are the pledge of summer fruitfulness. A winter scene in these Sierras without even the sight of unfriendly bruin, will beget a fondness for the snow sheds that the summer tourist cannot imagine, and a better appreciation of the boldness and daring of the men who brave the hardships of these mountain storms, and peril their lives at every step for other's safety. Day and night I saw the servants of the public, from highest to low- est, haggard and worn, yet never ceasing in their battle against the tremendous storm, and was overwhelmed thinking of our indebtedness to their energy, skill and endurance, as well as by viewing the wonderful works of God. "The feeding of the rivers and the purifying of the winds are the least of the services appointed to the hills. To fill the thirst of the human heart with the beauty of God's working, to startle its lethargy with the deep and pure agitation of astonishment are their higher missions." Snow Sheds. The snow sheds, so important to winter travel, are found east of Strong's Canon Station, and west of Emigrant Gap, wherever there is no side hill, and the removal of the snow would be difficult for the plow. Between these two stations, they are without break, except for tunnels and bridges. In all, there are about 40 miles of the sheds. They are of two kinds, the flat roof, built to hold the weight of 25 or 30 feet of snow, or slide it down the mountain side, and those with the pitched or steep roof, and " batter brace." The massiveness of the huge pine trunks, or sawed timbers, twelve or sixteen inches on a side, may be easily seen from the cars. The cost per mile varied from $8,000 to $10,000, and where it was necessary to build heavy retaining walls of ma- sonry, some dry and some cement walls, the cost was at the rate of $30,000 per mile. Sometimes the heavy square timbers are bolted to the solid ledge, that avalanches may be carried by, and the sheds remain. At a distance the sheds look small, but they are high enough to insure the safety of break- men who pass over the tops of the freight cars. During the summer months when everything is sun-scorched, the destruction of the sheds by 228 fire is often imminent, and great loss has been suffered in this way. . To prevent fires, the greatest precaution is used, and the most effective measures adopted to extinguish a con- flagration. At short intervals, both sides and roof are of corrugated iron to stop the progress of a fire, and the whole line from Strong's Canon to Emigrant Gap, provided with automatic fire- alarms, telegraphing the place of danger, and at the summit is a train with tanks, and the engine ready to become instantly a well-equipped fire- brigade. Near Truckee the railroad leaves the river which turns to the south, and it follows Donner Creek, the outlet of Donner Lake, for a short dis- tance and then turns up the great and magnifi- cent canon of Cold Stream Creek, in a direction nearly south-west. Before leaving Donner Creek, we are hard by " Starvation Camp," where in the winter of 1846-7 a company of eighty-two persons, coming to California, were overtaken by snow, lost their cattle, and were reduced to such straits that many survivors fed on the remains of their starved companions. The company comprised eighty-two persons, of whom thirty-two were females, a large proportion of the whole being children. Thirty-six perished, of whom twenty- six were males. Of a party of thirteen, who went out for help, ten perished. Relief was sent to the company, but it was impossible to save all. Mrs. Donner, when the alternative was presented her, early in March, of leaving her husband, and going away with her children, or remaining with him and soon perishing, refused to abandon him, and when, in April, the spot was visited again, his body was found carefully dressed and laid out by her. How long she sur- vived him is not known. The sufferings of this party were insignificant in amount when com- pared with the whole aggregate of misery en- dured in the early peopling of California by the Overland, the Cape Horn, and the Panama Route, but no other tale connected with these early days is so harrowing in its details as this, and no one thinking of Donner Lake, turns from its quiet and beauty, to think of this tragedy that gave it its name, without a shudder. The old road across the mountains to Sutter's Fort, followed up the Cold Stream, where snows no longer forbid a passage across the dangerous summits. Along and rounding this Cold Stream Canon are the finest views on the eastern side of the Sierras, not shut out by snow sheds from the traveler by rail. The canon is wide and long, and far above and across, the road-bed is cut on the steep mountain side, and then protected by long snow sheds till at last it enters tunnel No. 13. Looking up the canon, on the right, soon after entering, or back, after the Horse-Shoe Curve has been made, a long line of purple pyramids and jagged precipices surround the valley, and if the road is not at the bottom of everything, the enormous face of the mountain seems to forbid the most daring attempt to ascend. But upward still looking back to the valley of the Truckee far below, and the train reaches Strong's Canon, 252 miles from San Fran- cisco, which is a side track, telegraph office and turn-table, for snow-plows, principally. Cold Stream must not be confounded with Strong's Canon, for the latter will not be reached till the train has passed half-way along the lofty wall of Donner Lake. The station was originally at Strong's Canon, but was afterward moved to tun- nel No. 13, the point where the road leaves Cold Stream Canon. Donner Lake the gem of the Sierras, is just below, and the vigilant eye will be rewarded by a sight of it through the observation holes in the snow sheds, and when the train crosses a bridge in doubling Strong's Canon. After leav- ing this Canon, the road-bed is cut out of rough, rugged, granite rocks ; and before the summit is reached, it has passed through the seventh tun- nel from Cold Stream. These are almost indis- tinguishable from the sombre snow sheds, and Nos. 11 and 12 and likewise 7 and 8, are almost continuous. The longest are Nos. 13 and 6, the former 870 feet, and the latter, 1,659 feet, and the longest on the line of the road. Emerging from tunnel No. 6, the Summit, 244 miles from San Francisco, is announced, and the train is ready to descend rapidly to the valley of the Sacramento. It is a day and night telegraph station, and has an alti- tude of 7,017 feet 119.8 feet above Truckee and is the highest point on the line of the road. Many of the surrounding peaks are two and three thousand feet higher. The Summit House is the largest hotel along the line of the road, accommodates 150 guests, and is one of the most popular in the Sierras. One who lets the train go by, to climb to the top of the ridge through which the tunnel leads, or some higher peak, will never be sorry, for an enchanting panorama will be unrolled. Summit Valley, with its bright pastures, and warm with life, while it touches bleak rocks, and receives the shade of the inhospitable pine or the drip of the snow one of the loveliest val- leys at such an altitude lies toward the setting sun. In the rim that shuts out the south-west wind, towers the Devil's Peak, a bold cliff rising from out of wild surroundings ; and following the ridge eastward with the eye, and around toward the point of vision, there are prominent, Old Man's Peak, just across the valley, sharp- ened by the wintry storms of his long life, and on the main ridge, Mount Lincoln, 9,200 feet high, and Donner Peak, 2,000 feet above the railroad, and 3,200 above the lake that sleeps in quiet beauty at its base; and across the railroad 229 a w a B> |S a O v bd t> w 5 a i g M H g W > G H 230 the peak from which Bierstadt sketched the " Gein " beneath. Then there are a thousand other charms in the vast heights above, and vast depths below ; in contrasts of light and shade, form and color ; in mists hanging over the lake, and clouds clinging to the peaks; in the twilight deepening into darkness, or colossal pyres, kindled by the coming sun, and going out in the clear light of the day ; or, in the gloom of the forest mingled with the living silver of the moonlit lake. The peaks may be ascend- ed some with difficulty, and some with mod- erate exertion but persons of feeble constitu- tion may enjoy all the varied charms. The lake is of easy access, and has on its banks a hotel for tour- ists. The dis- tance to the lake by the carriage road is 2 1-2 miles, and Truckee 9 miles. The summit di- vides the waters that flow east and sink amid desert sands, from those that flow west into the Sacramento river. Sum mi t Valley, -2 1-2 miles long and one mile wide, heads in the high peaks, south of the hotel. It has pasturage during the summer for many cattle, and its springs and abundance of products, fresh from the dairy, make it a delightful place for camping out. Its waters are the source of the South Fork of the South Yuba River. The railroad descends to the foot of this val- ley, keeping the divide on the north to the right, then, about three miles from the summit, crosses the most southerly branch of the Yuba. A few yards before the crossing, is a summer flag sta- tion, or _ Soda Springs Station. These springs are situated on the south side of the high ridge that forms the southern wall of Summit Valley, and LAKE ANGELINE. are in the headwaters of the American River. They are numerous, flow abundantly, and are highly medicinal. Stages run to them both from the summit, and from Soda Station, and the ride is not surpassed, if equaled, by any in the Sierras north of Yosemite, in the number and beauty of the fine views it affords. The hotel at the Springs is not an imposing structure, but it is kept in first-class style and is a favorite resort. The dividing ridge, which the railroad now follows, is on the left, and on the right are great ridges and can- ons, which gath- er more water for the Yuba. Their extent alone impresses the beholder with awe, but the snow sheds allow no satis- factory view. The first reg- ular station after leaving the summit is 5.8 miles west, called Cascade, 239 miles from San Francisco. The vertical de- scent from the summit to this point is 498 feet, and nothing here will check one's readiness to descend far- ther, for it is only a signal station, and there are none to signal, ex- cept such as are employed on the road. South of the station are Kidd's Lakes, empty- ing into the South Branch of the South Yuba through the Upper and Lower Cascade Ravines. The bridges over the ravines will be a grateful but short-lived relief from the restraint of the snow sheds. The time in passing is too short to take in the charms of the water-falls in summer, or the ice-clad rocks in winter, and the extended view on the right. Kidd's Lakes are dammed so as to impound the water during the winter and spring, and when the dry season approaches, it is let out over the Cascades into the river and carried, eventually, to Dutch Flat. 231 SCENERY OF THE SIERRAS, NEAR SUMMIT. There is a great spur, called " Crockers " thrown out in this ridge, through which the road passes in tunnel No. 5, and thence along Stanford Bluffs to Tamarack, 235 miles from San Francisco, another signal station. A stop will not be likely, unless to meet or pass a freight train. A small saw-mill is in operation during part of the year. Just below Tamarack, the Yuba has worn a large gorge, and the bold bluffs, which unfor- tunately are below the road-bed, have been called " New Hampshire Rocks," and the name may well suggest that the Granite State will soon cease to be regarded as the " Switzerland of America." The road continues on the north or Yuba side of the divide, between the waters of the Yuba and American Rivers ; and between Tamarack and Cisco, Red Spur and Trap Spur are passed by tunnels No. 4 and No. 3. Three and a half miles from Tamarack is Cisco, 231 miles from San Francisco, a day and night telegraph station, with an elevation of 5,939 feet. It was named after John J. Cisco, the sterling, assistant treasurer of the United States, at New York City, during the late civil war. Cisco was for a year and a half the ter- minus of the road, and lively with business for the construction of the road, and for Nevada. It had a population of 7,000, and some dwellings erected at a cost of $5,000 ; large warehouses, and all the intensity of frontier life. After the re- moval of the terminus to Truckee, the deserted buildings were either taken down and removed or went fast to decay, until their destruction was hastened by a fire that left nothing for the morning sun to rise upon, but the freight house with a platform 1,000 feet long, standing alone amid the ashes and surrounding forests. From Cisco there is a beautiful view on the north, with Red Mountain in the distance. Just back of Red Mountain is the Old Man Mountain, but hid from view until the train de- scends a few miles farther. To detect in this any sharp or remote outline of the human profile, wrought in colossal propor- tion by the hand that moulded and chiseled the infinite shapes of nature, is probably beyond the keenness of any Yankee. Leaving Cisco, the railroad continues on the 233 north side of the divide, with the canons of the many streams that form the Yuba on the right, and a deep valley near by through hard por- S'lyry, passing Black Butte on the left, crossing utte Canon, around Hopkins' Bluffs and Mil- ler's Bluffs, eight and a half miles to Emigrant Gap, 223 miles from San Fran- cisco, another day and night telegraph station, is almost one vertical mile above San Francisco, the altitude being 5,221 feet. Just before reaching this station, the Yuba turns abruptly to the north, and just west of the turning place, with an elevation barely perceptible to one rush- ing by, Bear River heads in a valley of the same name, clothed in summer with a delightful green. At Emigrant Gap the divide is crossed by means of a tunnel, and the old Emigrant Road crossed the Gap here, and is crossed by the railroad, just a few rods west of the tunnel. Here the old emigrants let their wagons down the steep mountain side by ropes, with which a turn or two were taken around the trees at the Gap. How much better are iron rails than rug- ged rocks, and atmospheric brakes than treach- erous cords ! On the right we have now the headwaters of the Bear River, but of the valley one can have only a glimpse except by ascending the rocks above the railroad. Once over the divide, there are on the left, the headwaters of a branch of the North Fork of the American River, and the road follows Wilson's Ravine, and the valley of the same name is in sight for some distance. A number of little ra- vines may be noticed emptying in Wilson's, the largest of which, called " Sailor's," is crossed where the road doubles Lost Camp Spur, from which one may look across the ravine and see tunnel No. 1 on Grizzly Hill, and continuing he will pass along and around Blue Canon. Blue Canon, 217 miles from San Fran- cisco, at the crossing of which, 5.2 miles from Emigrant Gap, is the hotel, a store, a shipping point for six saw-mills, and a day and night telegraph station. The elevation is now 4,693 feet. The snow sheds are unf requent and shorter, and the traveler will become more interested in the scenery now growing most wonderfully, until it becomes the grandest on the line of the road across the Continent. A little mining is carried on in Blue Canon, but on too small a scale to interest a stranger. Blue Canon is the limit of the snow which remains during the winter. It is noted for the best water on the mountains water so esteemed by the railroad men that it is car- ried to supply their shops at Rocklin and Sacramento. Flumes and ditches are almost constantly in sight. The canon grows deep rapidly and seems to fall away from the railroad, so that one in- stinctively wonders how he is to get down so far. This portion of the railroad has the steepest grade on the whole line 116 feet to the mile. China Manche. About two miles west of Blue Canon, a side track is passed where the close-tilling Celestial gardened prior to and at the location of the road and the fact lingers in the name, China Ranche. Mountains may be seen as far as the eye can reach. After passing the ranche, there is a very deep cut through Prospect Hill, the name suggesting the loss of the passenger in the cut. On the west side of Prospect Hill is Little Blue Canon, where Shady Run, a pretty little creek, is seen on the left. It was so named by engineer Guppy at the time the road was located, in honor of the good camp- ing ground it afforded. Shady Run, 212 miles from San Fran- cisco, is a side track, but not even a flag-station, 4.7 miles from Blue Canon. Near it the railroad passes around Trail Spur, and, on the left is one of the finest views on the line of the road, the junction of Blue Canon Creek and the North Fork of the American River; there the great chasm, worn by glaciers to a depth of about 2,000 feet, extending a mile to the junction of the South Branch, the precipitous sides narrow- ing to the water's edge and forbidding ascent even on foot, through the narrow gorge and mountain upon mountain , back toward the snow peaks left an hour and a half ago and east- ward for fifty or more miles, till they are min- gled in the eye as the stars of the milky way, add to the impressiveness of the view which is en- chanced by its suddenness. Just west of Trail Spur, and after passing Serpentine Ravine, one may look down the Great American Canon into Green Valley and Giant's Gap, beyond. The view is sublime, with the bright emerald green of the pastures ; the ter- raced and rounded, black, gloomy forests, over- head, and the frowning approach of the majestic mountains, stopped where the icy torrent slowly rent the very frame-work of the Continent. For a time the tourist will be compelled to leave the main slope of the American River and be carried across the ridge or divide at Hog's Back, across Canon Creek, to Alta,2Q8 miles from San Francisco ; 3,607 feet elevation. Here are several stores and the center of considerable lumber trade. Its popu- lation does not exceed a hundred. It is a day telegraph station, 4.8 miles from Shady Run. At one time soap-root, a bulb, growing like the stub of a coarse, brown mohair switch, just emerging from the ground, was gathered by the Chinamen. It has strong alkaline properties, and is used for washing and for genuine hair mattresses. It has become too scarce to be gath- ered here with profit ,by even the keen, moon- eyed Celestial. Below Alta we strike the slope of Bear River, and on this water-shed we travel, winding among 235 hills, until we near Cape Horn. But only 1.9 miles from Alta, we arrive at Dutch Flat, 206 miles from San Francisco, our approach to which is heralded by the unmis- takable evidences of mining, seen in the up- turned face of the country. The water that came down in advance of the cars from Summit Valley and Kidd's Lakes is now utilized. It was gathered from the East Fork of the American River, from Monumental Canon and Wilson's Ravine, and carried in Bradley's ditch around Lost Camp Spur and emptied into Blue Canon, near Blue Canon Station, and taken up again at the station and carried by ditches and flumes to Fort Point, where the railroad crosses it, and soon after one of the spurs is tunneled in two places to find an easy grade, but it cannot descend safely as fast as the cars, and at Pros- pect Hill passes through a tunnel 100 feet above the railroad, and is then emptied into Canon Creek, from which it is again taken up and dis- tributed by flumes or great iron pipes to the mines we overlook at Dutch Flat and Gold Run. There are three separate ditches, the " Cedar Creek," an English company, bringing water from the American River ; the " Miner's Mining and Ditch Company," with water from Bear River, and the " Yuba Ditch Company." The first two companies own and work mines, and the latter derives all its revenue from the sale of water. For hydraulic mining, this is one of the most important regions in the State. Dutch Flat, or German Level, has an altitude of 3,395 feet. It is an old town, the mining having begun in 1851. It was once more largely populated than now, yet it boasts 1,500 inhab- itants. It has a Methodist and a Congregational Church, and the finest school-house in the in- terior of the State. It has a tri-weekly stage to Nevada City, 16 miles, leaving every Monday, Wednesday and Friday morning. The time is three hours and the fare $3.00. The route passes through the towns of Little York, 2 1-2 miles, You Bet, 6 miles, and Red Dog, 8 miles from Dutch Flat. The town is built at the head of Dutch Flat Canon, and is very irregular and hilly. It has good stores, hotels and restaurants, and an enterprising semi-weekly newspaper. Placer Mining. Where the earth-carrying gold could be easily dug, and water was of ready access, and the diggings were rich enough, the washing out was done by hand, and this form of gold hunting was called placer mining. It re- quired no capital except the simple tools and im- plements used in digging and washing, with food enough to keep one till some return from labor could be obtained. Several hundred million dollars value of gold were thus washed out of the surface soil of California in early years. Lit- tle ground remains that can be made to pay by this process, and it is almost a thing of the past. It naturally led, however, to hydraulic mining which is as flourishing as ever, and promises to continue so for many years. Placer miners came occasionally upon ground which, though carrying gold, was not rich enough to pay if worked by hand, but would pay handsomely when handled on a large scale. The device was soon adopted of providing flumes in place of cradles and rockers. Into these flumes a stream was turned and the earth shoveled .in. Large quantities could thus be washed as easily as small amounts had been before. The gold in each case, except that portion which was impalpably fine, and would even float on water, was detained by riffles on the bottom of the rocker, or the flume, and gathered up from time to time. It was found eventually that large banks sometimes hundreds of feet high, were rich enough in gold to pay for working, and the device was next adopted of directing a stream against them to wash them down. Stiff beds of cement have been found rich in gold, but too stiff to yield to any except a mighty force. Higher heads of water have been sought, until even 500 feet of head have been employed, the usual range being from 50 feet to 300, and a force obtained which nothing can resist. Such a stream issuing from a six-inch nozzle, comes out as solidto the touch as ice, the toughest bed of cement crumbles before it, and boulders weigh- ing tons are tossed about as lightly as pebbles. A man struck by such a stream would never know what hurt him. The strongest iron pipe is required to carry the water to the nozzle, through which it is played. No hose can be made strong enough to bear the pressure, and the directing of the stream to the point desired is effected by two iron jointed pipes, moving in planes at right angles to each other, and thus securing a sweep in every direction. The amount of the force exerted by such a stream as has been described, it is impossible to estimate except approximately, but 1,300 pounds to the inch is not too high. To provide the water re- quired where " hydraulicking " is done on a large scale, streams are brought long distances. The price for selling water is graduated by the size of the opening through which it is de- livered, usually under six inches pressure. Prac- tically it is found that there is in California, more gold than water, for there are many places rich in gold, which cannot be worked for lack of water. The season varies in length, according to the situation and the rain-fall, but nowhere is it pos- sible to work the whole year, and probably on an average the active season does not exceed seven or eight months. There is one feature connected with hydraulic mining which no one can contem- plate without regret. It leaves desolation be- hind it in the form of heaps of shapeless gravel and boulders, which must lie for ages before blos- soming again with verdure. One of the difficult 236 GIANTS GAP, AMERICAN RIVER CANON. BY THOMAS MOBAN. 237 problems in hydraulicking is to find room for the debris which the streams, used in washing down banks of earth, are constantly carrying along with them. The beds of streams have been filled up in some parts of the State so as to increase greatly the exposure of the cultivated regions be- low the mining districts to inundation and ruin. Legislation has been sought by the farmers to protect their interests, but the effort was opposed by the miners and a dead-lock followed. The muddiness which will strike the tourist as affecting all the mountain streams on the west slope of the Sierra Nevadas, is the result of this mining. Once the Sacramento River, the Feather and the American Rivers were clear as crystal, but the hunt for gold has made them like the Missouri River in high flood and even muddier, and they are not likely, while this generation and the next are on the stage of life, to resume their former clearness and purity. Gold Run, 204 miles from San Francisco, another mining town in the famous Blue Lode. It is a day telegraph station, with an altitude of 3,220 feet. It has a population of 700, with a large number of stores, and several hotels. A mile west of Gold Run and to the right, across Bear River, may be seen You Bet, Red Dog, Little York, and other mining towns can be pointed out from the cars by those familiar with the country ; but Ophir will be seen by every one, looking out on the right-hand side. A farmer from Lancaster or Chester County, Pa., would not be impressed with the worth of the country ; but the lover of nature, who does hot tire of the variety in the mountain scenery, will yet feel new interest in the signs of speed- ily emerging into an open and cultivated coun- try. Over the Bear River Canon, on the right, may be traced the thin outline of the basin of the Sacramento River, and, in a favorable atmos- phere, the Coast Range beyond is clearly visible. Once, all the ravines in this vicinity around it, swarmed with miners. "They went to the land of Ophir for gold." The placer mines were very rich, and covered with only from one to three feet of surface. The days are long past, but every pioneer has fresh recollections of them. Off to the Mines."" Hallo, Bill ! where are you off to, on that mule ? " [The boys all call him Bill, and so do I, but his name is Wil- liam Graves.] " Wa'al, I guess I'll go'n prospect a little, " says Bill, as he and his mule lazily trudge down the canon. I have known Bill these nine years, and he is a genuine prospector. I once paid him and a " pard " $5,000 in twenty- dollar gold pieces for a claim they had worked on a while. [The " pard " is not an " honest miner" any longer, but edits a one-horse paper in a little place out in the desert.] How much Bill got of the $5,000 I never knew, except that it did not long keep him from hard fare, camp- ing out, cooking and washing for himself, and every once in a while finding a claim to work on, locate, praise up and try to sell, and then get sick of and abandon. 1 would like to know how many fortunes in which his fancy and confident belief have reveled, have vanished and been for- gotten, like dreams. He has never struck it rich since he made his sale to me, and I fear he never will again, but no use to tell him so. There is the "Belle Boyden," on which he is keeping up assessment work, hiring out for a while to earn something ahead, so as to buy grub and keep himself going for a few weeks. It would be cruel to call him back now and ask him about it, but he would like nothing bet- ter, and would talk about its dip, and the rock it lies in, and how much it looks like some vein or other that has turned out well, it is astonishing how many veins run in his head and how many feet there are in the claim, and what he values his feet at, and how much he wouldn't take for it, if he only had money to open it, till he and I were both tired. Bill has gone through too many tight squeezes, and seen too much of tough life to be very emotional, but get him going on about the claim that he now holds and believes in, and his eyes brighten, and he talks with unc- tion. He is tall and loosely hung together, and to hear him drawl out his slow speech and move draggingly around, one would not think he could do much, but give him a pick, a drill, and a sledge-hammer, and set him to running a drift, or sinking a shaft, and not many will beat him. He is cute, too. When I bought his claim he went off to Frisco and New York, and it was rich to hear him tell how the sharpers of all hues and colors were after him, thinking they never had a better chance at a greenhorn, when they were never worse mistaken. What he does not know about holding one's own in a game with the boys, whether it be at cards or banter and jokes, is not worth knowing. He is honest and kind a whole-souled fellow, true as steel, and would doubtless take a fine polish, but his prospect is small of ever getting it. He will go on walking the mountains, camping here and there, hunting for ledges while he has grub, and working when he has not, till his hard life tells on him, and he breaks down, and it is sad to know that then he will go quick. Such as he are the men that prospect the country, penetrating its canons, exploring its gulches, climbing over and over its mountain sides, and finding the out- croppings of its mineral treasures, but hardly ever are they any the richer for it themselves. Secret Town, and Secret Town Ravine. There is a side track but it is not now a station, and the high, curved trestle-work, at first 1,100 feet long will soon be entirely replaced by the more durable embankment. The ravine was named from its early history, to mark the efforts of a party, to conceal their discoveries of rich claims. 238 on SSKifc"-" About a mile and half below Secret Town, there is a pretty view, where the railroad is near the edge of the side hill, and the deep ravine falls rapidly away to the American River. A Chinese Idea of Poker. "What's usee play poker ? " remarked an almond-eyed denizen of Tucson, Nevada, the other day. " Me hold four klings and a lace; Melican man hold all same time four laces and a kling; whole we ek wa shee gon e like e wood - bine." Cape Horn Mills is a side track, at which the overland trains stop signal, but the Virginia City passenger train will not stop. It is 5.9 miles from Gold Run, and not far from Cape Horn. Be- fore the train " doubles "the point or Cape, Robber's Ravine will be seen on the left, deepen- ing into the great canon of the American River. Cape Horn. Around the Cape, the rail- road clings to the precipitous bluff at a point nearly 2,000 feet above the river and far below the sum- mit, and where the first foot-hold for the daring workman on the narrow ledge SECEET TOWN, TRESTLE-WORK was gained by men who were let down with ropes from the summit. When the Cape is rounded, Rice's Ravine will be on the left, and Colfax seen on the opposite side. At the head of Rice's Ravine the railroad crosses by trestle-work 1 13 feet high and 878 feet long, on the summit of the divide between Long's Ravine and Rice's Ravine the waters from Long's going first northward to the Bear River, and those in Rice's Ravine southward into the American. At the foot of the trestle-work, and climbing up both ravines to Colfax, its terminus, on a grade of 113 feet to the mile, may be seen the narrow gauge railroad just opened to Grass Valley and Nevada City the former 16.74 and the latter 22 1-2 miles from Colfax. At the bottom of the deep gorge around Cape Horn, and on the mountain side across the stu- pendous chasm, may be seen the stage road to Iowa Hill, a mining town across the river. The railroad here is an achievement of engineering skill, genius and daring on the part of its bold projectors, t r i - umphing over natural wonders and obstacles of which ever to be proud. The view is magnifi- cent. N o o n e passing can af- ford to miss it, or he will die poorer and worse for the loss. Un- less it be the view at Giant's Gap, there is no railroad view to surpass it. The wonderful chasm is almost fright- ful to behold. The houses and even fields in the valley beneath are little things, and thebut- tresses to the deep water-gate are so enormous that large canons are as indistinct as the lines of masonry, and as the defying mountains open wild galleries back among the higher peaks, the mountain sculpture grows grander and grander until the rugged, but dimly outlined forms stretch away in a vast sea of pine, peak and snow, " Though inland far we be." The road-bed, to one looking down is appar- 239 ently scooped out of perpendicular rock and overhanging the great abyss ; and, to one looking up, is like a long skein of gray thread wound around the cliff. Colfax and the descending railroad, and the less pretentious narrow gauge toiling up to meet each other, are clearly seen across Rice's Ravine. Skillful Cookery. Americans who dine with the Chinese, are surprised at the perfection to which they carry their cooking. During a recent Chinese banquet in San Francisco, an orange was laid at the plate of each guest. The orange itself seemed like any other orange, but on being cut open, was found to contain within the rind five kinds of delicate jellies. One was at first puzzled to explain how the jellies got in, and giving up that train of reflection, was in a worse quandary to know how the pulpy part of the orange got out. Colored eggs were also served, in the inside of which were found nuts, jellies, meats and confectionery. When one of the Americans present, asked the interpreter to explain this legerdemain of cookery, he expanded his mouth in a hearty laugh, and shook his head and said, " Melican man heap smart; why he not find him out ? " Moonlight Scenery of the Sierras. Travelers going westward have often the pleas- ure of a delightful ride by moonlight across the famous scenes of the Sierras. Just at evening, when the sun casts its last glorious rays across the mountains, and lights up the peaks and snowy summits with splendor the train arrives at Cape Horn, and the thrill of interest of the excited tourist, will never be forgotten. Take a good look from the point, westward down the grand canon of the American River. Step toward the edge of the cut, and look down the fearful precipice, which is often broken ere it reaches the lowest descent of 2,000 feet. It is a scene more famous in railroad pleasure travel, than any yet known. A few miles beyond, near Shady Run, there suddenly opens on the gaze of the expectant traveler, just before the sunlight has quite disappeared, and the evening shades come on, the vision of The Great American Canon, by far the finest canon of the entire Pacific Railroad. The suddenness of approach, and the grandeur of scene are so overpowering, that no pen, pic- ture or language can give to it adequate descrip- tion. Two thousand feet below, flow the quiet waters of the American River. Westward is seen the chasm, where height and peak and summit hang loftily over the little vale. South- ward is a sea, yea an ocean of mountains and the observer, seemingly upon the same level, is bewildered at the immensity of Nature's lavish display of mountain wonders ; night comes on, and the heights catch the soft light of the moon, as it shines and twinkles across and among the tops of the pines, lighting up the open canons, and rendering still more deep the contrast with the shady glens the snow fields, cold, white and chilling, with ever changing turns of the rail- road, make the evening ride, beyond a doubt, the most pleasurable that ever falls to the lot of the sight-seer. The tourist must stay up long see for yourself all the beauties of the Sierras, while there is the least possible light Emigrant Gap, Summit, Donner Lake, Blue Canon all are delightful, and the lover of scene pleasures must not forsake his window or the platform, till the midnight hour finds him at Truckee. Trav- elers eastward will bear in mind that from Cape Horn to Summit, the best scenes are on south side of the train, the American River Canon on the right hand, or south side, and the Bear and the Yuba River Valleys on the north side ; but from the Summit the scene changes, and the ob- server must find his pleasures on the north, until he reaches Truckee. East of Truckee, the scene is again renewed, and the river and best views are mainly on the south. Colfax, 193 miles from San Francisco. It was named in honor of the late Vice-President, has an altitude of 2,422 feet, is a day telegraph station, and the breakfast and supper station for the overland trains. Seventy-five cents, coin, are charged for meals, and 25 minutes allowed for eating them. The old settlement was Illinoistown, but with the opening of the station, the old town was " finished." Colfax has a population of 700, two churches, Methodist Episcopal, and Congre- gational, three hotels and stores to indicate that it is the center of trade for a population of several thousand. Stages run daily to Iowa Hill, eight miles, time one and one-half hours, fare $2.50, leaving on arrival of the trains from the East. In the fall of 1876, a new road will be completed, and stages be run to Forest Hill, 14 miles, in two and one-half hours. The fare will be $2.50. Grass Valley is 16.74 miles distant, has a population of 7,000. It is the center of the best gold quartz mining region of the State, and has the largest Protestant Church (Methodist Epis- copal) in the Sierra Mountains. It has also a Congregational Church, Roman Catholic, Epis- copal and Christian or Campbellite. Until re- cently, it had two banks, but at present has none. It is the center of large lumber, fruit and min- ing interests, has a daily paper, the " Union," and one weekly, the " Foothill Tidings." This city as well as Nevada, is reached from Coif ax- by the narrow gauge railroad, on which two trains connect daily with the trains of the Central Pacific. The fare to Grass Valley is $7.07, and to Nevada City $2.25, the maximum allowed by the law of the State. Nevada has a population of 5,000, and is the county-seat of Nevada County. The people CAPE HORN. 1. View looking down the American River. 2. View of Cape Horn and American River Canon, looking East. 3. Point of Cape Horn. 241 of Truckee are compelled to attend court in this city. It is in the same mining region as Grass Valley, and was for many years the largest town in the mining regions. From an area of six miles, not less than $75,000,000 have been taken, and $2,000,000 are now produced annually. Slight snows fall in the winter. The route of the nar- row gauge railroad lies through the valley of the Bear River, over which one looks in descending the Sierras. At the crossing of Bear River, where it joins the Elkhorn, there is some fine scenery, and although in the distance of 22 1-2 miles there are 16 stopping places, there are no towns or villages except at the termini and at Grass Valley. San Juan North, Comptonville, and Downieville, Sierraville, Lake City, Bloom- field, Moore's Flat and Eureka South, and Marysville are all connected with Grass Valley or Nevada by stage. In passing along near Colfax, and in all the foot hills, the manzanita is seen, but the bushes are smaller here than in many other parts of California. It is a queer shrub, and like the madrona tree does not shed its leaf, but sheds its bark. Its small, red berry ripens in the fall and is gathered and eaten by the Indians. Crooked canes made from its wood are much esteemed. The bark is very delicate until varnished and dried, and great care should be taken in trans- porting them when first cut. The foot hills are partly covered with chapar- ral, a low evergreen oak, which, in early days, afforded hiding places for Mexican robbers, and now accommodates, with cheap lodgings, many a " road agent " when supplied by a raid on Wells, Fargo & Go's treasure boxes or the coin and watches of stage-passengers. White blossoms load the air with fragrance in April and May. On the right, the valley of the Sacramento is coming faster into sight, and the Coast Range growing more distinct. The next station, 5.1 miles west of Colfax, is New England Mitts, at the west end of a plateau where there is no grade for three miles. Lumbering in the vicinity has declined, and the trains do not stop. The roadway continues on the south side of the divide between the Bear and American rivers, but this has so widened that the cars seem to be winding around among small hills far away from either river. Water taken from Bear River, near Colfax, is quite near the railroad, on the right, for a num- ber of miles, and will be seen crossing over at Clipper Gap. Below New England Mills there is an opening called George's Gap, named from an early resi- dent, George Giesendorfer, and farther west is Star House Gap, called from an old hotel ; then signs of farming are again seen in Bahney's Ranche, at the foot of Bahney's Hill, and Wild- Cat Ranche farther west, where Wild-Cat Sum- mit is crossed by a tunnel 693 feet long, and 16 Clipper Ravine is then found on the left-hand side. This tunnel was made in 1873, to straighten the road, and the ends are built of solid ma- sonry. Across Clipper Gap Ravine, the stage road from Auburn to Georgetown may be seen wind- ing up the mountain side. About half-way between New England Mills and Clipper Gap, there is a side track and day telegraph station, called Applegates, for the run- ning of trains and a point for shipping lime ; but passenger trains run, without stopping, from Colfax 11 1-3 miles, to Clipper Gap, 182 miles from San Fran- cisco. The few buildings have a store and a hotel among them. It was the terminus of the road for three or four months, and then a lively place. Hare and mountain quail abound in these foot hills. The latter roost, not on the ground, but in trees, never utter the " Bob White," so famil- iar to sportsmen, and fly swifter than the east- ern quail. Aubtirn, 175 miles from San Francisco, is a day telegraph station, 6.6 miles from Clipper Gap, with an elevation of 1,360 feet. From Auburn Station a daily stage runs 22 miles to Forest Hill on arrival of the train from the east, fare $4.00, and to Michigan Bluffs, 30 miles, fare $6.00, and another runs daily, except Sunday, to Greenwood, 16 miles, fare $2.50, and Georgetown, 21 miles, fare $3.00, Pilot Hill, 11 miles, fare $1.50, Colma, 21 miles, fare $2.50, and Placerville, 32 miles, fare $4.00. Alabaster Cave on the route of the latter, six miles from Auburn, is an opening in a limestone formation, and the seat of the kilns in which the best lime of California is made. What little beauty the cave once possessed has been invaded and it has now no attraction for the tourist. The town of Auburn proper is situated below the station. It has a population of 1,000, two churches, good schools, fine orchards, and is the county-seat of Placer County. It is one of the oldest towns in the State. It has three hotels, one of which is the Railroad House. Many of its buildings are constructed of brick or stone, and grapes are extensively grown in the vicinity, and with great success. The Placer Herald is a weekly Democratic paper, and the Argus, a weekly Republican paper. From the point where the locomotive stands, the Sacramento River can be seen on the left, as also from other points as the train continues westward. Soon after leaving the station, the railroad crosses Dutch Ravine, at the head of which is Bloomer Cut, where the train passes through an interesting conglomerate, showing a well-exposed strata of boulders, sand and coarse gravel. The trestle work at Newcastle Gap Bridge is 528 feet long and 60 feet high. 242 A VISION OF THE GOLDEN COUNTRY. BY THOMAS MOKAN. 243 As the train nears Newcastle, the Marysville Buttes, rough, ragged peaks, are easily discerned. They are about 12 miles above the city of Marysville, and the town near the railroad, but clinging to a side hill opposite, is the decayed town of Ophir. From the trestle work, just before reaching and also after passing Newcastle, there are fine panoramas of the Sacramento Valley, on both the right hand and the left. Mount Diablo may be seen on the left. Newcastle, 170 miles from San Francisco, is a day tele- graph station, five miles from Auburn, 956 feet above the sea. It has a hotel and several stores, every man in the place a Good Templar, and some promising quartz mines in the vicinity. It was named after an old resident and hotel-keep- er called Castle. An earnest of what may be seen in the lovely valley, that has such unlimited extent before the traveler, may be seen in a flour- ishing orange tree, growing in the open air, in a garden only a few yards from the railroad track. BLOOMER CUT. Almost evei-y one will have noticed an ever- green of attractive hue, a shrub and a vine, always trifoliated. It is the poison oak or poison ivy, and unless one knows that he can- not be affected by it, he should avoid an inti- mate acquaintance. Below Newcastle about a mile, the railroad leaves Dutch Ravine, along which it has kept its way from Auburn, and enters Antelope Ravine, by which it descends the plain. Penryn is a side track near a valuable granite quarry. The rock is susceptible of a high polish probably unsurpassed in the State, and was used for building the dry dock of the U. S. Navy Yard, at Mare Island, and other pub- lic buildings. In summer, 200 men are employed in the quarries. Pino, 164 miles from San Francisco, is about where the limit of the pines is found, in a coun- try full of huge boulders, with quarries of gran- ite, slightly soft- er than that of Penryn. RocMin is 162 miles from San Francisco, a day and night telegraph sta- tion, with 249 feet of elevation, and is the point at which east- bound trains take an extra locomotive to ascend the mountain. The roundhouse of the railroad com- pany, with 28 stalls, situated here is a most s ub s t antial structure, made from the granite quarries near the station. From these quar- ries, many of the streets of San Francisco are paved, pub- lic and private buildings erect- ed, and here were cut the im- mense blocks used for the pavements of the Palace Hotel. (Junction is 157 miles from San Francisco. It is a day telegraph station, and 163 feet above the sea. The town is called Roseville, in honor of the belle of the country who joined an excur- sion here during the early history of the road, and will probably be known as Roseville Junc- tion. Here the Oregon division of the Central Pa- cific leaves the main line. On the left may be seen the abandoned grade of a road that was built to this point from Folsom on the American 244 River. By this road, Lincoln, Wheatland, Ma- rysville, Chico, Tehama, Red Bluff, Redding, and intermediate points are reached. One hundred fifty-one and a half miles have been built from the junction northward. Passengers going north may use their tickets to San Francisco for -pas- sage over this division, and at Redding take stage for Portland, Or. Four miles from the Junction is Antelope, a side track at which passenger trains do not stop, and 6.6 miles farther on, a place of about equal importance called Arcade. The soil is light, much of it grav- elly, but it produces considerable grass, and an abundance of wild flowers. Prominent among the latter are the Lupin and the Eschscholtzia, or California Poppy. The long fence will inter- est the Eastern farmer, for here is a specimen of a Mexican grant. It is the Norris Ranche, now owned by Messrs. Haggin, Tevis and others, and nearly ten miles long. When California was first settled, these plains were covered with tall, wild oats, sometimes concealing the horseback rider, and wild oats are now seen along the side of the track. No stop is made, except for passing trains, until the American River bridge is reached. About four miles from Sacramento we reach the American River. It has none of the loveli- ness that charmed us when we saw it winding along the mountains. The whole river-bed has filled up, and in summer, when the water is al- most wholly diverted to mining camps or for irrigation, it seems to be rather a swamp. It is approached by a long and high trestle work. After crossing the bridge, on the right, you will notice some thrifty vineyards and productive Chinese gardens in the rich deposits of the river. On the left you will obtain a fine view of the State Capitol; also you get a fine view of the grounds of the State Agricultural Society. Its speed-track, a mile in length, is unexcelled. Its advantages, including the climate of the State, make it the best training track in the United States. It was here that Occident trot- ted in 2.16 3-4, and is said to have made a record of 2.15 1-4 in a private trial. The grand stand was erected at a cost of $15,000. Should you pass through the city in Septem- ber or October, do not fail to see for yourself the Agricultural Park and the Pavilion, and test the marvellous stories about the beets and the pump- kins, and secure some of the beautiful and de- licious fruit that is grown in the foot hills. On the left you will also see the hospital of the Central Pacific Railroad. It contains all modern improvements for lighting, heating, ven- tilation and drainage, and a library of 1,200 volumes. It can accommodate 200 patients, and cost the company $65,000. Fifty cents a month is deducted from the pay of all employes for maintaining the institution. No other railroad has made such generous provision for its faith- ful employes. Railroad Works. North of the city there was a sheet of water known as " Sutter's Lake " and " The Slough," and a succession of high knolls. The lake was granted to the city by the State, and to the railroad company by the city. Its stagnant waters have given place, at great cost, to most important industries. The high knolls have been levelled, and are also owned, in part, by the railroad company. Not less than fifty acres of land are thus made useful for side tracks and fruitful in manufactures. Six and a half acres of it are covered by the railroad shops. Twelve hundred men are constantly employed. These are the chief shops of the railroad. Some you saw at Ogden, Terrace, Carlin, Wadsworth, Truckee and Rocklin, and you will find others at Lathrop and Oakland Point, and at Tulare and Caliente on the Visalia Division. At Oakland Point, 150 men are em- ployed, but all these shops and even those of the California Pacific Road at Vallejo center here. These are the largest and best shops west of the Mississippi River, and form the most extensive manufacturing industry of the city. The best locomotives, and the most elegant and comfortable passenger cars on the coast are built, and a large portion of the repairs for the whole road is done here. All the castings of iron and brass, and every fitting of freight and passenger cars, except the goods used in upholstering, is here produced ; boilers for steamers put up, the heaviest engine shafts forged, telegraph instru- ments made, silver plating done, and 12,000 car wheels made every month. All the latest and best labor-saving tools and machinery used in wood, iron and brass work can here be seen in operation. The capacity of the shops is six box-freight, and six flat cars per day, and two passenger, and one sleeping car per month. Twelve years ago, the work of the company at this point, was all done in a little wooden building 24 by 100 feet, and with less men than there are now build- ings or departments. Last year a million r.nd a half dollars was paid out for labor in these shops alone, and 4,000 tons of iron consumed. Some of the buildings, like the roundhouse, are of brick. This has 29 pits each 60 feet long, with a circumference of 600 feet. Some of the buildings have roofs or sides of corrugated iron. Seven large under-ground tanks, 1,600 gallons each, are used for oil and 2,000 gallons of coal oil, and 400 of sperm con- sumed every month. In connection with the shops, is a regularly organized and well-equipped fire-brigade, and in two minutes the water of two steam fire-engines can be directed to any point in the buildings. Soon a rolling mill will be erected, and upon the location but lately pestilential. The whole 246 coast will be laid under further tribute to these shops for the facilities of travel and commerce. Just before entering the depot you will cross the track of the California Pacific Railroad, and see the Sacramento River on the right. Sacramento. Trains stop twenty minutes in the depot. This affords ample time to get a lunch at the Palace Saloon in the depot, or to visit the City and Capitol. Take one of the "free busses" for the Capitol, Golden Eagle, Grand or Orleans Hotel, all first-class, comfortable and well patronized; or the street- cars will convey you near any of these. They leave the depot and go up K street one line to Third, along Third to O, along O to Twenti- eth, and along Twentieth to P, and the other line, out K to Tenth, thence to H, and thence to the Agricultural Park. The population of the city is about 20,000. The streets are regularly laid out, and beginning at the river or depot, with Front or First, are numbered to Thirty-first, and the cross-streets are lettered, beginning with A on the north side of the city. The stores are chiefly of brick, and residences of wood. The broad streets are shaded by trees of heavy foliage, the elm, wal- nut, poplar and sycamore prevailing, and in sum- mer are almost embowered by these walls of verdure, that are ready to combat the spread of fires. It is a city of beautiful homes. Lovely cottages are surrounded by flowers, fruits and vines, while some of the most elegant mansions in the State are in the midst of grassy lawns or gardens filled with the rarest flowers. The orange, fig, lime and palm flourish, and the air is often laden with nature's choice perfumes. It is lighted with gas, and has water from the Sacra- mento River, supplied by the Holly system. Two million gallons are pumped up daily. The climate is warm in summer, but the heat is tempered by the sea breeze which ascends the river, and the nights are always pleasantly cool. Notwithstanding its swampy surroundings and the luxuriance of its semi-tropical vegeta- tion, statistics establish the fact that it is one of the healthiest cities in the State. Among the more prominent buildings are the Court-house, Odd Fellows', Masonic, Good Tem- plars' and Pioneer Halls ; the Christian Brothers' College, the Churches, Schools and the Capitol. The grammar school building is a credit to the educational structures of the State, and attracts attention from visitors second only to the Capitol. The Pioneers are an association of Califor- nians who arrived prior to January, 1850. Their hall has an antiquarian value especially in a very accurate register of important events extend- ing back to A. D. 1650. "Another association, the Sons of the Pioneers, will become the heirs of these valuable archives, and perpetuate the association. Geographical convenience and nat- ural advantages have given to the city The State Capitol. This is the most attractive object to visitors. It cost nearly $2,500,000. It stands at the west and thrice ter- raced end of a beautiful park of eight blocks, extending from L to N street, and from Tenth to Fourteenth street. Back of the Capitol, but within the limits of the park and its beautiful landscape gardening, are the State Printing Office and the State Armory. The main entrance to the Capitol is opposite M street. The edifice was modeled after the old Capitol at Washington and has the same massiveness, combined with admirable propor- tions, and rare architectural perfection and beauty. Its front is 320 feet and height 80 feet, above which the lofty dome rises to 220 feet, and is then surmounted by the Temple of Liberty, and Powers' bronze statue of California. The lower story is of granite, the other two of brick. Ascending by granite steps, which extend 80 feet across the front, we reach the portico with ten massive columns. Passing through this, we stand in the lofty rotunda, 72 feet in diameter. The chambers and galleries are finished and fur- nished in richness and elegance befitting the Golden State. The doors are of walnut and California laurel, massive and elegant. The State library has 35,000 volumes. The great dome is of iron, supported by 24 fluted Corin- thian columns and 24 pilasters. Rising above this is a smaller dome supported by 12 fluted Corinthian pillars. The beauty of the whole is equaled in but few of the public buildings in the country, and the California laurel with its high polish adds no little to the charm. The steps leading to the top of the outer dome are easy, except for persons of delicate health, and the view to be gained on a clear day, will amply repay any exertion. The extended landscape is incomparably lovely. You are in the center of the great Sacramento Valley, nearly 450 miles long by 40 wide, where fertile soil and pleasant clime have contributed to make one of the loveliest pictures to be seen from any capitol in the world. Just beneath lies a city with many beautiful residences, half concealed in the luxuriant ver- dure of semi-tropical trees. Lovely gardens enlarged into highly cultivated farms then, wide extended plains, on which feed thousands of cattle and sheep, groves of evergreen oak, long, winding rivers, and landlocked bays, white with the sails of commerce, and along the east- ern horizon stretch the rugged Sierras, with their lines of arid foot hills, perpetual verdure, and snowy summits, shining like white sum- mer clouds in a clear blue sky. On the west the Coast Range limits the vision with its indistinct and hazy lines, out of which the round top of Mount Diablo is quite dis- tinct. Southward, the eye takes in the valley of 247 the San Joaquin, (pronounced, Wah-keen), with its rapidly populating plains. In 1850, a fire left only one house standing, where are now 21 of the principal business blocks, and in 1854, a second fire nearly de- stroyed the city, after which lumber was scarce at f 500 a thousand. In the winter of 1851-2, a flood covered the whole city, and led to the construction of levees, which were afterward enlarged. Part of the city, too, was raised above high-water mark. Ten years later a flood occurred, with from eight to ten feet of water in all the parts of the city not raised, and flooding the first stories of all houses and stores. In the winter of 1875-6, the river was three inches higher than ever be- fore known, yet the city was perfectly safe. As a distributing point, the commercial ad- vantages of the city are second only to San Francisco. Freight by the Overland route is here started north or south. Merchants of Ne- vada, Northern California and Utah secure their freight from this point with less charges and greater despatch than from San Francisco, and all shipments to the mountains or beyond, must go through this gate. Fruit from the foot hills, of choicer flavor than that grown in the warmer valleys, and vegetables, enormous and abundant, from the rich alluvial soil of the rivers, concen- trate here to supply the dwellers from the Sierras eastward. During the summer of 1875 the aver- age weekly shipment, of fruit alone, to the East, was 400 tons. The industries that already give the city prominence, and not directly connected with the railroad, are more than can be mentioned. Among them are the Capital Woolen Mills, sev- eral carriage, wagon and furniture factories, several flouring-mills, one of which, the Pioneer, is the largest in the State, with capacity for pro- ducing 600 barrels of flour and 950 tons of barley per day, boiler, general iron and brass works. Wineries are permanently established and pro- ductive. Beet Sugar is manufactured about three miles from the city. The works were erected at a cost of $275,000, and 1,450 acres of land are in use for the factory. Ninety tons of beets can be used, per day, yielding about 13 1-2 per cent, of saccharine matter, while the refuse is mixed with other feed and used to fatten cattle. This promises to become one of the chief in- dustries of California, and the only occasion where the descriptive powers of Mr. Nordhoff seem to have failed him, was in the presence of the machinery of the Johnson process used in this manufacture. The sugar-beet does not grow to enormous size, but the mangel-wurzel continues to grow, summer and winter, until it attains enormous size. Southern California is said to have pro- duced one of 1,100 pounds, and a farmer of So- County, had one (not considering the top), feet above the ground. We believe he noma three fenced around it, lest a cow should get inside of it and eat out the heart. The city has a paid Fire Department, and five newspapers the Daily and Weekly Record- Union, the Daily and Weekly Bee, The Sacramento Valley Agriculturalist (weekly), Sacramento Jour- nal (German tri-weekly), and The Weekly Res- cue, the organ of the I. O. G. T. Sacramento is also an important railroad cen- ter, second only to San Francisco. Here is the practical terminus of the California and Oregon Railroad, which uses the main track of the Cen- tral Pacific Railroad to Roseville, and is com- pleted 170 miles north, to Redding. At Redding, daily stage connection is made for Roseburg, Or., 275 miles, and thence, by the Oregon and Cali- fornia Railroad, 200 miles to Portland. Time, four days ; Fare, $55.00, gold. The California Pacific runs to Vallejo, 60 miles, at the head of San Pablo Bay, immedi- ately north of, and connected with San Fran- cisco Bay. At Vallejo, steamers connect, twice a day, for San Francisco. The whole distance is 83 miles. Davisville, Woodland, Knight's Landing, Vacaville and the Napa Valley, are reached by this road. Here, too, is the terminus of the Sacramento Valley Railroad, the oldest in the State. The river, also, affords a pleasant route, either to Northern California, or to San Francisco. On the upper Sacramento, steamers of light draft ascend 240 miles to Red Bluff, or by the Feather River, from its junction with the Sacra- mento, 65 miles to Marysville, at the confluence of the Yuba and Feather Rivers. Below the city an active trade is carried on with steamers and sloops. The California Steam Navigation Company have a daily line of steam- ers leaving Sacramento at ten o'clock A. M., and reaching San Francisco about six p. M. The distance is 108 miles. The river does not pre- sent the picturesque scenery of the Hudson, but the tourist will be interested at every point, whether as he looks out over the rich lands awaiting reclamation, or the thriving villages and fertile fields on either side, or the islands well protected by high and broad levees. The spacious bays Suisun, San Pablo, and San Francisco afford a series of views, in which the interest is like a good novel, increasing to the end. Mount Diablo is nearly always in view. You pass the United States Arsenal at Benicia, once the rival of San Francisco, and through the Straits of Carquinez. The United States Navy Yard, on Mare Island, overlooked by the town of Vallejo, and the beauty of the ap- proach to San Francisco, noticed more at length in connection with the California Pacific Rail- road, will amply compensate for the difference in time between the all-rail route via Stockton and REPRESENTATIVE MEN OF CALIFORNIA. 1. Senator Sargent. 2. R. B. Woodward. 3. Senator Sharon, (Nevada.) 4. D. O. Mills. 5. James C. Flood. 6. W. C. Ralston. 7. M. S. Latham. 8. Gov. Irwin. 249 the river. The river-boats, however, are not run with the regularity of the trains, nor are they as large and comfortable as they were a few years ago. Leaving Sacramento on the Central Pacific Railroad, formerly the Western Pacific, we reach Brigliton, 134 miles from San Francisco, where the Sacramento Valley Railroad leaves the main track. This road extends to Folsom, 22 miles, where it connects with the Sacramento Valley and Placerville Railroad, to Shingle Springs 26 miles, whence daily stages leave for Placerville, 58 miles from Sacramento. The old town of Brighton was on the Sacramento River opposite the present station, and on the old Placerville road. At the farm-houses along the country roads, you notice numerous windmills, of various sizes and styles, whirling away to fill reservoirs for household wants, or irrigate the vineyards or orchards and gardens, if any there be. They are common in all the valleys and plains of Cali- fornia, and numerous in the cities. The sobri- quet of Stockton is the " Windmill City." About California farms there is usually no garden. Perhaps a few vegetables are raised during the winter. In some localities certain fruits or vegetables do not grow well, and the farmer who has twenty or a hundred head of horses, before his gang-plows, or harvesting his wheat or barley, has no time for gardening and prefers to depend upon the daily visits of the vegetable wagon as well as the butcher. And among our cosmopolitan people, the only class we lack is the farming women of the Mohawk Val- ley, or the Pennsylvania Dutch. Florin is 131 miles from San Francisco, a flag station side track, store and post-office. The hard pan is near the surface, and therefore but little moisture retained from the most copious winter rains. Trees cannot send down their roots until this hard pan is broken through for them. Elk, Grove, 123 miles from San Francisco. In early days the hunter here could find large game without visiting Shasta, Tulare Lake or the mountains. At the old hotel the sign of the elk horns invited the traveler, suggesting him a dish that even then was seldom seen. Beyond, on the right hand, is some of the best soil in the State in the low lands, comprising the delta of the Sacramento, Mokelumne and San Joaquin Rivers. There are Presbyterian and Methodist Episcopal Churches in the village. McConnell's, 119 miles from San Fran- cisco, on the banks of the Cosumne River, a stream like all others in California, turbid in winter, and an empty channel in summer. In California the name "ranche" (a contrac- tion of the Spanish rancho, which is primarily the rude lodging-place of herdsmen, or an estab- lishment for raising horses and cattle), has almost superseded the "hacienda," or farm. Mc- Connell's Ranche is, however, devoted largely to stock raising, and on it are kept the finest imported thorough-bred merino sheep. Sheep raising is among the most profitable pursuits in the State, and the woolen manufactures of Cali- fornia are unequaled in whatever line they have hitherto sought to excel. Gait is 112 miles from San Francisco. The Central Pacific Company are now building a branch road to the coal mines at lone City. Daily stages connect Gait and lone, Sutter Creek, Jackson and Mokelumne Hill, and dur- ing the summer proceed to the Calaveras Grove of Big Trees, 30 miles from Mokelumne Hill. lone City is in a prosperous mining and farming region, and has recently received new life from the development of large coal fields. Sutter Creek, on this stage route, is 31 miles from Gait, and ranks next to Grass Valley in Nevada County, as a quartz mining locality. Here is the famous Amador or Hay ward Mine, where the excavations are now made several hun- dred feet below the level of the sea. It has been one of the richest mines in the State, and pro- duces about 1700,000 annually. With irrigation, fruit growing and agriculture succeed well. Jackson was formerly rich in placer mines, but the prosperous mining interests of today are in quartz. The soil and climate combine to produce fruit unexcelled in the State, and large quantities of wine and brandy are made. Mokelumne Hill is 41 miles from Gait, and was the county-seat of Calaveras County until 1867. It was one of the earliest mining settle- ments. The Gwin and other quartz mines are now successfully worked. This route to the Big Trees is traveled but little, except by those who desire to visit the towns between them and Gait. The tourist will, undoubtedly, proceed to Stockton or Lathrop. A.campo, only a flag station. Lodi,- formerly called Mokelumne. A daily stage leaves Lodi at 2.20 P. M., for Mokelumne Hill, 37 miles distant ; fare $5. Just before reaching the village, the Mokel- umne River is crossed. Lodi is one of a flour- ishing trio of villages. Woodbridge is 2 miles north-west, and Lockford,^ miles north'. This is one of the best portions of the great valley, across which one now passes. The soil is a rich sandy loam, producing abundantly, and the intelligent, ener- getic people are surrounded with all the neces- sary appendages of first-class farms. The ever- green trees have given their name " Live Oaks" to a large region in this part of the valley. Castle is 97 miles from San Francisco a flag station. The Calaveras River is crossed be- fore reaching Stockton, but except in winter is only an empty channel. On either side of the 250 road will be seen abundant crops, or unmistak- able promise of them. Much of the land is so level that the large fields of 100 or more acres can be completely submerged from either of their sides. On the right, entering the town of Stockton, stands one of the Insane Asylums of the State. The other, recently opened, is located at Napa. The grounds at this place comprise 130 acres, all under a high state of cultivation. There are about 1,300 inmates. The first building passed is the largest and most imposing, has every modern convenience, and is occupied by female inmates. The male inmates occupy the other buildings. Stockton is 91 miles from San Francisco, and has a population of 12,000. It is 23 feet above the sea, and the county-seat of San Joa- quin County. It was laid out in 1848 by Captain Webber, who named it to commemorate Commo- dore Stockton's part in the conquest of Califor- nia. It is two miles from the San Joaquin River, at the head of Stockton Slough, which is navi- gable at all seasons for vessels of 250 tons. The heart of the town was destroyed by fire in 1849 and again in 1851. It is laid out with broad streets at right angles, and has street-cars from the depot to the principal hotels and the Insane Asylum. " Free busses " also convey passengers to the Yosemite, Mansion, Grand or Central, all first-class hotels. The city was once the exclusive base of supply for a large mining and agricultural trade which is now diverted, yet the development of the country has caused a steady increase of its volume of business. It is admirably situated to control the trade of the whole San Joaquin Valley, but needs a ship canal that will enable ocean vessels to load at its wharves. The water supply is from an artesian well, 1,002 feet deep, flowing 300,000 gallons of pure water daily, the water rising 11 feet above the surface of the ground. The city is lighted with gas and has an efficient volunteer fire department. Two daily and weekly papers, the Stockton In- dependent and Evening Herald, four banks and large woolen, leather, wood, iron and paper fac- tories, wholesale and retail stores, and an exten- sive grain business are the foundations and measures of the prosperity of the city. The leather tanned here is considered equal to the best French, and commands as high a price. The proximity of iron and coal should make this city the Pittsburg of the Pacific. It has fourteen organized churches, some of which have built houses of worship Roman Catholics, Methodists, North and South, German and Col- ored, Episcopalians, Congregationalists, Baptists, white and colored Christians (Disciples), and Jews. Passing in the cars, nothing is seen of the better residences, of which there are many, provided with every convenience and comfort. Excellent public and private schools are the boast of the people, for, if Californians ever boast (which they never do), they do not forget to speak of their schools. Masons, Odd Fellows, Red Men, Knights of Pythias, Hibernians, Pio- neers and other societies represent social and be- nevolent progress. Near the depot, on the left, may be seen the grounds of the San Joaquin Valley Agricultural Society. Heat. The city has the best climate of the val- ley. The hot air of the interior is usually tem- pered by the sea breeze, and the nights are always cool. The hot and sickly places of California are never reached by the traveler. In Sacramento it is said to be hot in Marysville, and in Marys- ville, one is referred to Oroville for heat, and in Stockton, men say it is hot at Merced. The sim- ple fact is that all parts of the Great Central Basin of California are subject to occasional north winds the dread, at once, of man and beast. They usually lull at night, but continue, at least, three successive days. The wind hav- ing swept over hundreds of miles of dry and scorching plains, breathes as from a furnace, the mercury marking 110 to 120 in the shade. One may fancy himself in Egypt or Barbary, withered and fainting under blasts from the Sa- hara Desert. The origin of the name, California, is said to be from two Spanish words, " caliente fornalo," meaning a " heated furnace." This seems plau- sible. The extreme dryness of the climate, how- ever, enables men and animals to endure this heat surprisingly. Sunstrokes are unknown. Rapid evaporation keeps the pores open, no perspiration accumulates, the skin is dry and cool, and a heat 20 to 30 degrees above what would mark an intensely heated term, in the moister atmosphere of the Eastern States, produces little exhaustion in the dry atmosphere of this central basin. Horses travel frequently 50 to 60 miles a day without injury, the thermometer marking 100 or over. Stockton has not yet attained the importance as a railroad center, to which her position entitles her. A narrow gauge road to lone City was commenced, but there is no pros- pect of its early completion. The Stockton and Copperopolis Railroad extends easterly into Cala- veras and Stanislaus Counties, the main branch 30 miles to Milton, with a branch at Peters, 15 miles from Stockton, to Oakdale, 34 miles from Stockton. To the Big Trees, Calaveras Group. The best route to the Calaveras Grove of Big Trees is via Stockton and Milton. There is another grove of big trees at Mariposa, which is best reached from Lathrop and Merced. The comparative inducements to visit one or the other, will be stated hereafter, and here will be de- scribed only the route from Stockton to the Cala- veras Grove. Cars leave Stockton at 12.35 p. M., 1. Grizzly Giant, Mariposa Grove. 2. Three Graces, Calaveras Group. 3. Scenes in Mariposa Grove. 4. Trunk of Big Tree, Mariposa Grove. 5. Natural Arch, Big Tree, Mariposa Grove. 6. Calaveras Group, Big Trees. 252 for Milton ; stages leave Milton at 2.45 p. M., and reach Murphy's at 7 P. M., where the first night is spent. The Grove, 15 miles from Murphy's, is reached the next day at 11 A. M., and those who desire can leave at 3 p. M. the same day, and return to Murphy's for the second night. On the following day one may reach San Francisco, or go to Gar- rote, 45 miles from the Yosemite Valley. To visit the Calaveras Grove and Yosemite Valley by this route requires 145 miles of staging. This route to the Yosemite Valley via Milton, is called the Big Oak Flat, or Hutching's Route, the former name from a local point on the road, and the latter after the man who in past years did more than any other to make the Yosemite Valley known, and by whose untiring energy the stage road to it was opened. It is one of three routes by which the valley is reached without horseback riding. It is the shortest route from Stockton or San Francisco, but it requires more staging than the other two. To go directly to the valley by this route, one leaves Stockton for Milton at 12.35 p. M., and spends the night at Chinese Camp, 23 miles from Milton, reaching the valley the second day after, at 2 p. M. For the other three routes to the valley, see Lathrop, the next station. The decision whether to visit the Calaveras or the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, substantially de- termines the route taken to and from the valley. The considerations that enter into this decision are as follows : There are seven known groves of big trees. Of these only the Calaveras and Mariposa have accommodations for tourists, are easily accessible and convenient to other points so as to be visited in comparatively little time and without large expense. It is true, that the Tuolumne and Merced Groves are directly on different routes to the valley, but the number of trees in these is small, and their size is not great. In the Tuolumne there are but ten, the largest only 24 feet in diameter. In both the Calaveras and Mariposa Groves are prostrate trunks one- sixth larger than the largest living trees, which enable one to realize, as cannot be done by look- ing at and walking round living trees, the enor- mous size of these forest giants. As the tourist will probably see one of these two groves it may be well to note for him that In the In the Calaveras Grorc. Mariposa Grove. Number of trees 93 600 Diameter of largest, 33 feet. 33 feet. Circumference of largest living tree, six feet above the ground, 61 feet. 90 feet. No. of living trees between 80 and 90 feet in circumference, 1 No. between 70 and 80 feet. 6 No. between 60 and 70 feet, 1 2 The largest tree yet known in any of the groves is on King's River, 40 miles from Visalia, and is 44 feet in diameter. The Calaveras Grove was the first discovered, the first opened to tourists, has been long and well known, has a first-class hotel directly at the edge of the grove, where a summer vacation may be pleasantly passed; the trees all the while growing on the visitor in size and beauty, as Ni- agara does on him who tarries there. Private teams for either the big trees or the valley, or both, may be had at Stockton, Milton, or Merced, but unless one's time is absolutely un- limited, the public conveyance is to be chosen. By relays of horses these hurry one over the dry plains, and once in the midst of the charming scenery of the foot hills, one can tarry at pleasure. The most notable trees in the Calaveras group are: The Father of the Forest, which, measures 435 feet in length, 110 feet in circumferen.ee. Mother of the Forest, 321 feet high, 90 feet in circumfer- ence. Hercules, 320 feet high, 95 feet circumference. Hermit, 318 feet high, 60 feet circumference. Pride of the Forest, . 276 feet high, 60 feet circumference. Three Graces, . . . 295 feet high, 92 feet circumference. Husband and Wife, . 252 feet high, 60 feet circumference. Burnt Tree 330 feet long, 97 feet circumference. " Old Maid," " Old Bachelor," " Siamese Twins," " Mother and Sons," " Two Guardians." Lathrop, 82.8 miles from San Francisco, is the junction of the San Joaquin Valley Branch, or " Visalia Division " of the Central Pacific. It extends from Lathrop to Goshen. 147 miles, where it intersects the main line of Tlic Southern Pacific Railroad as it crosses the head of the San Joaquin or Tu- lare Valley. A branch line of seven miles reaches Visalia. From Goshen the Southern Pacific is completed north-westwardly 40 miles to Huron, and South-eastwardly to Los Angeles, 240 miles, and to Yuma (Arizona) 490 miles, with branch lines to points on the coast ; but there is still an unfinished gap of 100 miles between Huron and the terminus of the Northern Division at Tres Pinos. The communication with all the lines south of Huron is made via Oakland and the Lathrop and Goshen junctions, until such time as the main line of the Southern is com- pleted directly into San Francisco. Through trains daily, Sundays included, from San Fran- cisco at 4 p. m. ; time 22 hours to Los Angeles. Fare $20. For further description of Southern Pacific Railroad, see page 278 San Joaquin Valley. This great valley has the Sierra Nevada on the east, and the Coast Range on the west, is about 250 miles long, and from 20 to 150 miles wide. The area is 25,000 square miles. The greater portion of the land is a sandy loam, easily tilled. There are but few trees, but the farmers have begun to plant exten- sively. Frequent patches of the black, tenacious, alluvial soil, called adobe are found, in which the sun cracks, visible during summer, faintly sug- gest earthquakes. A hundred miles of wheat fields may be seen in the valley, broken only by roads and fences. 253 This immense valley, with a surrounding belt of timber for lumber and fuel, coal, iron, and the precious metals bordering it, adapted for grow- ing the grains and fruits of two zones, is des- tined to have a teeming population and fabulous wealth. Irrigation will supply the lack of sum- mer rains when needed. The summer tour- ist will be struck with the absence of all sod, and long for the refreshing sight of it once more. As it exists in the Eastern States, it is unknown in California, except where carefully nurtured. The beautiful mantle of green that covers the earth, in winter and spring, is here turned to hay without any artificial process. The juices of the grass are stored, the seeds ripened, and the roots die, and seeds sprout again. Alfalfa, a species of clover is, however, an ex- ception. Its roots, sometimes an inch in di- ameter, penetrate to a depth of 12 or more feet, and draw moisture from unseen springs. Several crops of hay may be cut from it in one season, and the quantity produced from an acre is almost fabulous. Ten years ago not a head of wheat was produced in Stanislaus County, one of the counties of this valley, and now it is the chief wheat-producing county in the State. To the Yosemite. There are several small stations between Lath- rop and Merced. Modesto, at the crossing of the Tuolumne River, is the only town of importance. It is surrounded by a rich agricultural region, is a county-seat, with about 2,500 inhabitants, and has a grain warehouse, owned by the railroad, a quarter of a mile in length. Merced, 57.3 miles from Lathrop, illus- trates Californian growth and progress. The first building was erected in 1872, and in two years there were not less than 1,500 residents. The railroad company have erected at this point, one of the finest and most commodious hotels in the State outside of San Francisco. There are several churches and a number of public build- ings, but the chief importance of the place to the tourist, is as the point of departure of stages for the Yosemite Valley. There are two "all wagon " roads, the Mariposa and the Coulter- ville. Leaving San Francisco after business hours, at 4 p. M.; Lathrop at 8.15 P.M.; one reaches Merced at 10.35 p. M., and passes the night. The next morning there is a stage at 6 A. M., Coulterville Route, and at 7 A. M., by the Mariposa. There will be 12 hours staging on either route, and one will then be ready to en- joy the rest of the mountain stillness, and the refreshment of its pure cool air. On the Mariposa Route, the night is spent at Clark's Ranche, only five miles from the Mari- posa Grove of Big Trees, and 22 miles from the hotels in the valley. The grove may be visited in the morning, and the same day at 1 p. M. one may leave for the valley via Inspiration or Glacier Point, arriving at 6 p. M. ; but this is too much to accomplish satisfactorily in one day, and the hour of arrival in the valley will be too late to enjoy the beauty of the Bridal Veil Fall when passing it. A day is none too long to wander and wonder amid the Big Trees. It is wiser, therefore, to leave Clark's in the morning, and reach the valley about 2 p. M. By a new road from Clark's to Glacier Point, it is possible to see the most prominent points of interest and spend only one night in the val- ley. The other road, entering bf Inspiration Point, passes the Bridal Yeil, El Capitan, the Cathedral Rocks and Spires, the Three Brothers, and Sentinel Dome to one of the hotels, opposite the Yosemite Falls. Having taken all these points of interest on the way, one may make an early start in the morning to Mirror Lake, Ver- nal and Nevada Falls, Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome and back to Clark's, and next day return to Merced. Taking this route, in four days from the railroad without retracing one's steps, the entire length of the valley is visited, also Mari- posa Grove. One has looked up to the summit of the high, towering cliffs, and from above gazed down into the deeply eroded ravine, or far away at the high Sierras, listened to the falling waters, rambled at will among the giants of the forest, and over and over again reveled in looking into the pure depths of the purest mountain atmosphere. No improvement on this route is possible. Every minute of time is delightfully occupied to the best advantage. One may, and should, if possible, linger in the valley to visit the South Dome, the Cloud's Rest, the foot of the Upper Yosemite, and take in gradually the growing wonders of the place. It will pay well to go twice, or more, over the same ground ; or at least from Sentinel Dome one may descend again to the hotels in the valley, and thence leave it by either of the three routes. By the Coulterville Route, after leaving Merced in the morning and passing through the towns of Snelling and Coulterville, Dudley's Ranche is reached for the first night. The valley is reached next day at 5 p. M. ; passing into it along the foaming river, as it rushes out the narrow canon below the valley proper, the Bridal Veil is on the opposite side of the river, but too distant to see its rainbow, or appreciate its peculiar charms. El Capitan, and all other features of interest spoken of on the Mariposa Route, are also passed. By this Coulterville Route, Bower's Cave is passed, and a fine view is obtained from Pilot Peak. The cave is an immense and picturesque crack or sink in the solid limestone of the mount- ain top, into which one may descend to an irreg- ular bottom about a hundred feet square, in one corner of which is a small and beautiful lake. SCENES IN THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 1. Bridal Veil Fall. 2. Mirror Lak. 255 By both routes Merced is reached at night on the fourth day after leaving for the valley, or later according to the time spent there. The cars leave at 6 A. M., for Lathrop. We distinctly advise travelers not to return the same way as they entered the valley, but always choose a different route. Likewise in horseback rides, always return to the valley from Glacier Point, or other points, and from there take the stage. There are three good hotels in the Yosemite, Black's, Leidig's and Walsh & Coulter's, all which are comfortable. Board, $3.50 gold per day. Expenses. The expense of a trip to the Yosemite will be as follows : Railroad fare to Merced and return, $15 ; board one week, at $3.50 gold, $24.50; stage fare Merced to valley and returning by different routes, say $40 ; horses and guides, say 4 days, $3 per day, $12. Total, $91.50. As to the merits of the different stage routes, we can only say that it is preferable to enter the Yosemite via Inspiration Point, Mariposa and Clark's ; especially in hot days, this route has most shade. The stage route from Milton is the longest. Parties with ladies will find it desirable to enter via Mariposa and return via Coulterville. Of the Yosemite hotels, Leidig's is reputed to furnish the best table and eating, Black's best rooms, and Walsh & Coulter's the best location near Yosemite Falls. The best season for visit- ing Yosemite is from May 1st to July 15. Later than this the falls will be dry, or have but slight volume of water. Tickets for the Yosemite, by any route, or to go by one and return by another, may be had at Lathrop, or at 4 New Montgomery street, San Francisco. San Joaquin Bridge, 79 miles from San Francisco, is a station at the railroad crossing of the San Joaquin River. The channel is on the west side, and in high water the country is over- flowed for miles up and down the river, reaching back from it almost to Bantas, the next station. Bantas, 74 miles from San Francisco, and 30 feet above tide-water, is named for an old family resident here. Stages leave at 10.50 A. M., for San Joaquin City, 10 miles, Grayson, 20 miles, Mahoney's, 35 miles, and Hill's Ferry, 40 miles. Through fare, $3.50. About midway between this and the next station, a railroad has been commenced to run to Oakland via Antioch, Martinez, San Pablo and Berkley", thus avoiding the heavy grades of the Coast Range. To the right of Bantas, down the San Joaquin River, or the branch called " Old River " is a vast extent of lowland, overflowed in June, by the melting snows of the Sierra Nevadas, and during most of the rainy season. After the water passes off, flowers spring up, and the button willow blooms, affording excel- lent bee-pasture. From the first of July to the first of November, a single swarm of bees will often gather 100 Ibs. of honey. Those who take care of the bees also take quinine with the honey to cure the " chills." This is believed to be the extent of their acquaintance with " Bit- ter-sweet." Hundreds of acres of floating land here rise and fall with the water. Ellis, 69 miles from San Francisco, and 76 feet elevation, another village which bustles in the midst of vast wheat fields, during seasons following a wet winter, and sleeps under vast disappointments during other years. This " West Side " of the San Joaquin River, was supposed, for many years, to be worthless. The old Spaniards left it out of their ranches except when a few square miles or leagues were taken in for the sake of securing a convenient " loma " as a landmark. In 1849-50, as the gold-digger urged his mule, well laden with tent, bedding, pan and rocker, and three months' provisions, his heart full of expectation of a " pile " to be speedily dug from the placers of the " Southern Mines," his eyes were often gladdened by a lake of bright water near the " trail " only a mile ahead. He saw white sails, waves chasing each other, and trees on the shores reflected from their bosom. Pie expected soon to camp in the grateful shade, and slake his burning thirst with the cool water. The white sails bounded away, antelope-like, across the burning plains, for alas ! it was only a mirage an emblem of his expected wealth. Even now many are deluded in seeing the distant water and green trees beyond. The soil of this once desert region, now pro- duces the best of wheat, when the rains are abundant, but from its peculiar position on the north-east of the Coast Range, the necessary rain is often wanting. A local adage is " every seven years a crop " worse than ancient Egypt's famine. But the land-owners are moving to construct a ditch 60 feet wide and 300 miles long, to irrigate the entire valley on the west side of the river, and serve for transporting the produce to the tide-water of Suisun Bay. Once accomplished this almost desert land, will easily support a population of 3,000,000. Fourteen miles south-west from this station is Corral Hollow or Pass, in the mountain range, at the head of which are extensive coal mines, to- ward which a branch railroad extends five miles. Here an extra engine is taken to overcome the steep grade of the Livermore Pass, in the Mount Diablo Range. Medway, 64 miles from San Francisco, and 356 feet above the sea-level, was formerly called "Zinc House," from the only building in this hilly region, made of zinc a material used fre- quently as a substitute for lumber, then scarce and difficult to transport. The rolling hills are extensively farmed with varied success. The place has but a small population. From this station the train coils rapidly around the points of hills, across 256 VEBNAL FALLS, YOSEMITE. BY THOMAS MOBAN. 257 high embankments, and through deep cuts, the engine often seen from the car window like the fiery head of a huge serpent. The soil is coarse sand and gravel, the finer particles of which, and vegetation, too, it seems, have been blown away by the trade-winds, which, pent up by the long range, rush with concentrated fury over the summit of the pass, and sweep down with devastating force into the vacuum on the heated plains. Suddenly the train enters a tunnel, 1,116 feet long, the only one between Sacramento and San Francisco, and is in total darkness for two minutes. Emerging, it soon arrives at Altamont, west of the summit of the Mount Diablo Range, 56 miles from San Francisco, and 740 feet above the level of the sea. The traveler will see numerous gray squirrels stand- ing erect at the entrance to their homes. They are about as large as the fox-squirrel of the East- ern States, live in villages of their own, are the pest of the farmer, have increased since the land has been cultivated, and lay the grain fields under a tribute far heavier than the rent. It is a remarkable fact that both birds and squirrels have increased in variety and numbers all over the cultivated regions of the State since 1850. As the train descends into Livermore Valley, a truly picturesque scene is presented. The level valley, in form a square 12 miles across, with many narrow extensions far into the mountains, is spread out before one in full view, with rolling hills on all sides, except the west, where rises an abrupt, tree-clad mountain. On the right, across the low hills, green with live oaks, may now be seen Mt. Diablo, not as before, a blue dome, but a real mountain, with deep gorges in its sides, covered with chaparral, and capped usually with gray mists. It is an Indian legend that this country, west of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, was once cov- ered with water, and the top of this mountain then a little island. At that period, says the legend, the devil was there imprisoned by the waters for a long time, and, therefore, great pros- perity and quiet resulted to mankind; hence his name was given to it. However the name may have been first given, it now clings to it in Spanish form. The western portion of this valley contains hundreds of acres of the best land in the State, much of it moist, vegetable land, in the midst of which is a lake of fresh water, near which are natural flowing wells. From these the creek de- rives its name " Las Positas " i. e., little wells. Much of the eastern part of the valley is cov- ered, to a great depth, with small, angular stones, mixed with clay, and the region was thought to be useless, but it now produces the finest of wheat. From Altamont, it is 8.1 miles to Livermore, 47 miles from San Francisco. 17 This is a live town, 485 feet above tide-water, with 1,000 inhabitants, a seminary of learning, beautifully nestled amid sturdy oaks, a Presby- terian and a Catholic church, a steam mill, news- paper, saloons, stores, and several large ware- houses. Nine miles south, and at the head of Corral Hollow, are five veins of good coal yield- ing 100 tons per day, and six miles from the town another vein has been opened. These are prob- ably an extension of the Mount Diablo Coal fields which have been worked for many years. Six and one-tenth miles down the valley is Pleasanton, 41 miles from San Francisco, 353 feet above the sea, a village of 300 inhab- itants, with several stores, a large warehouse, an abundance of good water, and a rich, beautiful country on the north connecting with other val- leys, and extending to Martinez at the head of the Straits of Carquinez. This region, now Liv- ermore Valley, was formerly called Amador Val- ley, from its original owner, and was an inland sea. In 1836, Mr. Livermore found the bones of a whale on the surface of the ground, near the town which bears his name. The vertebrae lay in order with the ribs scattered about like the rails of a "worm" fence. Abalone shells are also found in quantities near the old ranche house. Beautiful variegated wild pansies, the lupin and California poppy have taken the place of sea weeds. In June may be seen, near Pleasanton, high above the grain, the yellow blossoms of the black mustard. In former years it stood 12 feet high, and so thick that it was difficult to force one's way through it. To Sunol, (Sun-yole) 36 miles from San Fran- cisco, the train dashes down the narrow valley of the Alasal Creek, 5.2 miles, amid pleasing scen- ery, and relics of the Mexican and Indian civili- zation of California. On the right is the Contra Costa Range of Coast Mountains, so called be- cause opposite the Coast Range, near and north of San Francisco. It is only a few miles across to the San Jose (San Ho-zay) Valley, where the train will pass in an opposite direction. Sunol Valley, a mile wide and three miles long, is south of this station. Seven miles above this is the Calaveras Valley, containing 1,500 acres the proposed site of a vast reservoir to supply San Francisco with water in future years. The mountains about these valleys are extensive sheep and cow pastures, covered with wild oats. The road passes down the canon of the Ala- meda Creek and over three fine bridges, yet winding with the canon, steep mountains on both sides, dressed in green or parched with sum- mer heat; the bracing sea breezes, and the knowledge that in an hour and a half the cars will reach the bay, revive the spirits of the traveler. Soon a scene of wide extended beauty is to burst on his vision the San Jose Valley, the Bay of San Francisco, the Serrated 258 Mountains that turn back the ocean tides of 8,000 miles travel, and all around him, as he hurries on to the great city, a garden spot more and more variegated with the choicest fruits and flowers, and abundant in homes of luxury and ease. From Sunol it is 6.4 miles to Niles, 30 miles from San Francisco, 88 feet above tide-water. Here are a store, hotel, ware- house and mill. A stage runs from all trains to Centreville, three miles distant. Here is the junction of the San Jose Branch of the Central Pacific Railroad. This branch passes through Washington Corners, the seat of a flourishing college, under Rev. S. S. Harmon, and a pleasant village overlooking the bay, and near the old Mission de San Jose. Three miles farther are the Warm Springs, in the midst of oak and other trees near the Aqua Caliente (hot water) Creek. The minerals that increase the value of the heated water are lime, sulphur, magnesia and iron. They were for- merly a popular resort, but are now the property of Governor Stanford. When his designs of building and beautifying are completed, it will be one of the most attractive of the summer resorts. Near Niles the Alameda Creek is turned into a ditch 30 feet wide, and distributed over the valley for irrigation, for although both the land and climate are moist, irrigation promotes the growth of fruits and vegetables called for by the San Francisco market. Adjoining the south-east end of this bay, are 20,000 acres of salt marsh, now in process of reclamation by dikes and ditches. Through this a narrow gauge railroad has been built from deep water, at Dunbarton Point, via Newark to Alviso, and will run thence through Santa Clara to Santa Cruz. Along the east side of the bay are numerous salt ponds, the sea water being let in at high tide upon a large tract of land, when the rainy sea- son is over, and this repeated several times. The concentrated brine is then drawn off in a planked reservoir, where it slowly crystallizes. As the train passes down 2.8 miles to Decoto, the eye is pleased, in April and May, by the mountain on the right round, green, shaven, like a lawn, or its sides rich with fields of grain ; or yellow with large patches of buttercups, blue with lupin, or deep orange with the Eschscholt- zia, or California wild poppy, gathered, no doubt, far east of this point, for many a sentimental nosegay, in honor of the traveler's acquaintance. It is a flower peculiar to the north-west coast of America. Wild flowers are so numerous in Cal- ifornia that often from twenty to a hundred va- rieties may be gathered from one spot. On the left, the trees mark the Alameda Creek, flowing down to the salt land. Beyond this lies the Old San Jose Road, and the richest and best cultivated portion of the valley. At Centreville, half -hidden in the distance, is an Alden fruit f ac- tory, convenient to large orchards, and, near by, on the farm of Rev. W. W. Brier, stands the tree from which originated the thousands of acres of Brier's Lariguedoc Almond, the soft-shelled al- mond, that no traveler has ever seen excelled in flavor. The hill-sides from one to 500 feet above the valleys, are best adapted to its culture, because the warm air from the lowlands prevents injury from frost. At Decoto, 27 miles from San Francisco, may be seen the Blue Gum Tree. Under favorable circumstances it will grow, in five years from the seed, to a height of 70 feet, with a circumference of four feet. The green wood splits readily, but the dry is as hard as the lignum-vitse. They are highly prized for a supposed tendency to counteract malaria, and their cultivation is rap- idly extending. Soon after leaving Decoto, Alvarado may be seen. It was once the county-seat of Alameda County. The valley land in this vicinity sells for $150 to $250 per acre, and the mountain land from $10 to $30. It is a peculiarity of Califor- nia, that the value of land is always stated sep- arately from improvements. Haywards, 21 miles from San Francisco, is 6.3 miles from Decoto. The town is seen a mile to the right, on the hill, at the outlet of Castro Valley rich, rolling and beautiful, and well watered, four miles long by two wide. Cas- tro Valley is named in honor of the original owner of the ranche, and Hayward's Hotel is a well-known resort. On the hill, to the right, is seen a forest that may be mistaken for evidence that these hills have been recently denuded of their timber. It is a forest of the Blue Gum Tree 200 acres, planted by James T. Stratton. The town has churches, public schools, and the hotel, still kept by Mr. Hayward, is a popular place of resort for those who seek a good and quiet home without removing from business in the city. Stages leave this station for Alvarado at 9.20 A. M., and 4.20 P. M. ; for Danville and Walnut Creek at 4.20 P. M., and from all trains to Haywards. For many years a railroad ran from Alameda to Haywards, but the track has been taken up. Lorenzo, 18 miles from San Francisco, is near San Lorenzo Creek, and surrounded by a well improved country. It is a pleasant village, and contains an extensive establishment for drying fruit on the Alden process, a store, a neat church edifice and the usual places to " take a drink." The land is worth $600 per acre. The large building to the right on the mountain side, is the Poorhouse of Alameda County, with which there is a farm connected. The golden sands of California and the absence of severe winters do not keep poverty and age from every door, nor 259 does a generous hospitality make public charity unnecessary. This section of country is noted for its cherries and currants, but nearly every variety of fruit is extensively cultivated. One of the fine orchards on the right before reaching the sta- tion, has 100 acres of Almonds, and 200 acres of other fruits. The owner, Mr. William Meek, has constructed private water-works at an expense of 115,000. San Leandro, 15 miles from San Fran- cisco, was formerly a county-seat. It has a population of 1,000, a large factory for wagons and gang-plows, a Presbyterian, a Catholic and a Methodist Church, stores and saloons. In the mountains opposite, and on a creek of the same name, is located the reservoir of the Oakland water- works. The water is collected from the winter floods and is 65 feet deep. Melrose is 11 miles from San Francisco. Be- fore reaching the station and after crossing the San Leandro Creek, there may be seen on the right, nestled in a beautiful vale at the foot of the mountains, the largest and best apportioned Protestant Seminary for girls, to which the Pacific Coast lays claim. The buildings were erected at a cost of about f 100,000, $30,000 of which was contributed by public-spirited indi- viduals. The 65 surrounding acres, with their oaks, sycamores, alders, willows, and laurel or bay tree ; the orchards, lawns and flower-beds, the inspiring views, combining the fruitful plain, the water and the mountains beyond ; a climate, always stimulating to mental effort in short, the correspondence of attractions and advantages, without and within, make this a point of inter- est to all who desire to see the progress of edu- cation in one of nature's most gifted spots. Near the race-track on the left, are several buildings with large, square chimneys, used to smelt and refine gold and silver, while on the right is a fuse factory. The town of Alameda is seen on the left, almost hidden by live oaks. A branch railroad connects it with this station, and the " local " trains of Oakland. Between Melrose and the next station, we pass Fruit Vale, a station on the Alameda Road, and a spot of surpassing loveliness. The elegant lawns, and beautiful mansions are almost wholly concealed by the luxuriant foliage, and amid the strapping of shawls and gathering of valises, there will be no time to waste, where only a glimpse of the beauty may be had, and Brooklyn will be announced 2.3 miles from Melrose, and 9 miles from San Francisco. Here is the point of departure for the " local " trains that will be seen again at the Oakland wharf. It is now East Oakland, a delightful suburb of San Francisco. The land rises gently toward the foot hills, almost from the water's edge. Since it has become a corporate part of the City of Oak- land, it has made rapid improvement in the opening of new and well macadamized streets and the erection of fine residences. At this point there is a " local " train that passes directly through Oakland to Oakland Point. Before reaching the next station the train will cross the track of the Alameda Branch. This track is for the accommodation of local travel, and connects Alameda and Fruit Vale with Oakland and San Francisco. From the abundance of the ever- green oaks, one may quickly conclude that pleas- ure parties will find there a balmy retreat whether beneath the clear sky, or sheltered from the afternoon winds, and it has always been a popular picnic resort. On Sunday, the boats and trains are crowded with thousands seeking recreation and enjoyment there. Brooklyn is a splendid home resort for travelers ; the comforts of so nice a hotel as Tubb's are worthy of appre- ciation. Oakland is 2 miles from Brooklyn. The train halts at the foot of Market Street, where many through passengers leave it, Oakland be- ing really a suburb of the larger city near at hand, and the chosen residence of hundreds who do all their business and spend most of their daytime over there. It if beautiful for situa- tion, and boasts a climate much preferred to that of San Francisco ; the trade-winds from the Pacific, which are fierce and cold, and often heavy with fog there, being much softened in crossing the bay. This has attracted many to make it their residence, though obliged to do business in San Francisco, and about 10,000 passengers daily cross on the half-hourly and splendid ferry-boats, and the number of trips will be increased before long. The population of the city increases rapidly, and, in 1877, was 47,000. As measures of its enterprise and prosperity it may be stated that 2,000 new buildings are to be erected in 1877, and a quar- ter of a million dollars expended in building a court-house and county jail. There are three sav- ings banks, two national gold banks, four lines of horse-cars, three flouring and four planing mills, an iron and a brass foundry, two potteries, one patent marble works, a jute bag factory, three tanneries and dther establishments employing many mechanics. On the public schools, of which Oakland is justly very proud, 'nearly <$6,000 are monthly expended, and nearly a quarter of a million dollars value in property is owned by the department. The State Univer- sity is within the city limits. Its site, which has been named Berkley, is on the northern border of the city and has a direct ferry to San Fran- cisco, and many families are planting themselves there, attracted by its natural beauty and the ed- ucational and social advantages which cluster around it. The University is open to students of both sexes, and tuition is free. The number of students exceeds 200. By special law, the 260 sale of intoxicating liquors is forbidden, within two miles of this University. There are 20 churches in Oakland, of which 16 own houses of worship. Some of them are elegant and costly ; the First Presbyterian Church has recently dedicated a new church building which cost them over $60,000. Seven newspapers are published, three daily, the rest weekly. The rides in and around Oakland, for variety of at- tractive features, are rarely equaled. Many come over from San Francisco, in the morning, expressly to enjoy this pleasure. Lake Merritt, a beautiful sheet of water, Tubb's Hotel and the Grand . Central Hotel, both spacious 8 and admirably kept, are 3 among the attractions which 5 none fail to visit, and with which thousands have bright fc and happy memories associa- 3 ted. g Though incorporated as a ^ city, Oakland is thoroughly S rural. A very small portion *" of the business part around x the chief railroad station is " built up solidly, but every- P where else the houses stand g detached and usually sur- rounded by a liberal expanse of gardens, grass-plat, and shrubbery which remind one of an eastern village. Live oaks abound, and show by their leaning over toward the east, the constancy and strength of the summer trade- winds. Geraniums, roses, fuchsias, callas, verbenas, and many tropical plants and flowers grow luxuriantly, never suffering from outdoor winter exposure, and finding a soil of surpassing richness and fertility. Fruit trees de- velop into bearing in a third or half the time usually re- quired on the Atlantic Coast. The city is favored with one rare advantage. The rail- road company charge no fare on their local trains, between stations within the city limits. 261 These trains are half-hourly, most of the day, and there are nearly five miles of railroad, and eight stations within the city limits. The con- venience of thus riding freely at all hours, can hardly be understood by those who have not ex- perienced it. The line of the local road is directly through the city, and only local trains run upon it, all other passenger trains, and all freight trains taking the main road close to the water's edge. Of all the suburbs of San Fran- cisco, Oakland is the most popular. Its growth exceeds that of San Francisco. The time re- quired to reach it from California Street, is less than is required to get up-town from Wall Street in New York, and once reached, the merchant, weary with the cares of the busy day, may find a home with a more tropical luxuriance of fruit and flowers, almost the same in summer and winter, and scenery scarcely less picturesque than the banks of the Hudson afford. Oakland Point is the last station before reaching the ferry. The stop is made to pass over the long trestle work with a light engine. Here the railroad company own about 125 acres of land, and have extensive buildings and repair shops. On their dock they remodel, or build their ferry-boats, the boats of the California Steam Navigation Company, and here the Western Development Company build all the bridges and frame all hotels, warehouses, and other buildings for the Central, California, and Southern Pacific Railroads. About 300 men are constantly employed. There is a roundhouse for 21 engines, and tracks for the extra pas- senger cars needed at this important terminus. A channel has been dredged out from this yard to the bay, which shows plainly from the cai*s on the left hand. The train now runs out on the trestle work, which is built out into sea water farther than any other in the world, and is the largest in waters of this depth, and also the best built wooden pier in the world. It was built five years ago, and when examined a year since, a few teredo were found in piles without bark ; but the strength of the pier was not appre- ciably impaired. It is 2.8 miles long. To protect it from fire, all the engines em- ployed on it are fitted with force pumps, and can be used as steam fire engines at a moment's notice. There are three slips and four piers, and the aggregate width of the latter is 396 feet, and over these an immense freight and passenger business is done. Eight sea-going ships can be loaded with grain simultaneously. Nearly all the lumber for the whole treeless region in Southern California, now reached by the railroad, is loaded from vessels at this wharf. Wagons and carriages crossing between Oakland and San Francisco come over one of these piers to the ferry-boat at present; but it involves risk to horses, vehicles, and their passengers, and the company are building ferry- boats to run by San Antonio Creek directly to Oakland, by which all teams will be ferried be- tween the two cities, and the increasing passen- ger traffic have the additional tracks now needed. Freight cars cross from this wharf to the im- mense freight depot at the foot of Fourth Street in San Francisco, and a boat is building to carry at once 20 loaded freight cars and 20 car loads of cattle. There is fine angling, chiefly for smelt, from these wharves. Four or five of these fish may be caught at a single cast. Within two years, east- ern salmon have been placed in these waters, and occasionally these are caught. California salmon do not take the hook, because people and fish are sharp on this side of the Continent. At Oakland wharf, passengers and baggage are transferred to the spacious and elegant ferry- boats, on which hackmen and hotel-runners will be sure to speak for themselves. The distance from the end of the wharf across the water to the ferry-house in San Francisco is 3.4 miles, and is ordinarily made in fifteen minutes. When the wind is blowing, none but the most rugged persons should venture to stand outside the cabin; but if it is practicable to gain the view, there are many points of great interest. At night, the city itself with long rows of lights extending over hills, more than " seven," or its wide extent by day, produces at once an impres- sion of its greatness. Bay of San Francisco. The bay is large enough to float the navies of the world, and beautified by a rare combination of island, mountain, city and plain. On the right, pass- ing to San Francisco, and near the wharf, is Goat Island, a military reservation, and the sub- ject of considerable agitation in Congress. The quarters of the officers and men are seen on the east side, and on the south end is a fog-bell and whistle that are often called into requisition. The Golden Gate proper is north, or to the right of the city five miles long and about a mile wide. It is strongly fortified at various points. Al- catraz, a naval station, is an island at the end of the gate and entrance to the bay, and commands the whole passage from the ocean. Angel Island, north of Alcatraz, is another military reservation, well fortified. North-west of this may be seen the towering peak of Mount Tamalpais, the highest near the city. On the right, one may look north to the San Pablo Bay, and behind him see classic Berkley, Oakland, and Alameda, with the Coast Hills in the back- ground. South, the view extends over the bay toward San Jose, and everywhere, except where the city stands, and through the Golden Gate, it is shut in by mountains. The trade-winds and fogs are shut out from California by the Coast Range, the fogs not ris- ing above 1,000 feet, and when they sweep down 262 the coast, drive through the Golden Gate with pent-up fury. The heated interior makes a fun- nel of this passage and creates a demand for the lace shawl and seal-skin sacque on the same day. The ferry-house where the trip across the Con- tinent ends, is well arranged and provided with everything necessary for the accommodation of the throngs of passengers passing through it. The baggage department of the railroad is here, and is connected by telegraph with every station on the road, giving all possible facilities for tracing stray baggage. The loss of baggage by this railroad company is almost an unknown in- cident, and the Pacific Transfer Company is equally reliable. San Francisco. The ferry-boat lands at the foot of Market Street, which is fast becoming the leading business artery of the city. Every horse-car line, except one, either runs in or crosses it, and by direct communication or transfer, all connect with the ferry at its foot. By these cars, or by carriages in waiting, the hotels which are about a half mile away are easily reached. The Grand and the Palace Hotels are on Market, at the corner of New Montgomery Street, the Lick on Montgomery, a few steps from Market Street, the Occidental and the Russ near at hand on the same street, and the Cosmopolitan at the corner of Bush and Sansome Streets, close to Market. As to their respective merits, we must decline to make comparisons or give free advertisements. Hotel coaches charge uniformly $1.00 gold for transfer of each passenger and baggage from ferry to hotel. The Transfer Company will carry baggage alone for 50 cents. Whether the over- land traveler resorts to a hotel or to the home of friends, the change from a week in the railroad cars to hospitable quarters and richly spread tables will be so grateful as at first to dispel all consciousness of fatigue ; but tired nature will assert herself, and the first night especially, as the arrival is at evening, will be given to rest. Perhaps the luxury of a Turkish bath should be had at the earliest moment. " The Hammam," erected by Senator Jones on Dupont Street, near Market, at a cost of nearly $200,000, is in truly Oriental style. The building is an ornament to the city, and in it dusty travelers will experience mingled wonder and delight at its Mohamme- dan architecture, perfect appointments, and com- plete adaptation to restore a sense of cleanliness and give solid refreshment to both body and spirit. Thus refreshed and looking about next morn- ing, there confronts the traveler a city, the growth of twenty-seven years, which counts 300,000 in- habitants, and covers a territory of 42 square miles. On its eastern front it extends along the bay, whose name it bears, is bounded on the north by the Golden Gate, and on the west wash- ed by the Pacific Ocean along a beach extending five or six miles. From the Golden Gate on the north, to the city and county-line on the south, is a distance of about seven miles, and the same from the bay across to the ocean. The surface is varied by hills, several of which have been built upon, and from whose summit command- ing views may be obtained. Telegraph Hill looks down on the point where the Golden Gate leads into the bay and harbor. Clay Street Hill is farther south and west, and may be ascended in cars drawn up its steep-graded sides by an endless rope running just below the surface. This hill extends some distance southward, and makes the streets crossing Montgomery to the west, steep, and some almost impracticable for wheeled vehicles. Along its heights some of the railroad directors and others have erected, or are erecting, princely dwellings. That of Governor Stanford is perhaps unsurpassed in almost every respect. Rincon Hill is in the southern part of the city, and slopes down to the water's edge. Until a recent period, it was noted for elegant private dwellings and grounds ; but these are now found in all directions, more clustering, how- ever, around Clay Street Hill, perhaps, than else- where. The growth of the city is rather toward the west than the south. Russian Hill is west and north of Telegraph Hill, and looks down toward the Golden Gate and what is called the North Beach, a portion of the city less in favor of late years than formerly. Smelting works, woolen factories, potteries, ar- tificial stone-works and establishments of this general character, have clustered here. San Francisco is very regularly laid out. There are two systems of streets, between which Market Street is the dividing line. North of Market the streets are mostly 70 feet wide, cross at right angles and run almost north and south, east and west, and the blocks are 150 varas or 275 feet wide, and 150 varas or 412 1-2 feet long, the length being east and west. Market Street runs about north-east and southwest. South of it the streets for over a mile from the city front, run parallel with it or at right angles. At about a mile from the city front these parallel streets grad- ually curve toward the south till they run almost north and south. This change of course was caus- ed by the low Mission Hills there lifting them- selves, and by the tendency of travel along the nar- row peninsula toward the country beyond it. The streets south of Market are some of them very broad, and some quite narrow. This portion of the city was laid out originally with very wide streets and in blocks 200 varas or 550 feet wide, and 300 varas or 825 feet long, but these proved too large and it became necessary to cut them up by intervening streets, which have no element of regularity except parallelism with the others. The streets are all numbered from the city front, or from Market Street, one hundred numbers being al- lowed to each block after the first, to which only 99 are assigned, the even numbers always on the 263 right hand as the numbers run. It is thus easy to locate any street and number. There are a few avenues, but with the exception of Van Ness, which is 125 feet wide, and built up handsomely, and Montgomery Avenue, which is laid out to provide easy access to the North Beach portion SAN FRANCISCO MINT. of the city, they are usually short and narrow, or in the most newly laid out portion of the city, not yet built up. The heavy wholesale business of the city is done along the water front and, mostly north of Market Street, extending back three or four streets from the front to where banks, brokers, insurance companies and office business generally have become established, the same territory south of this street being occupied by lumber merchants, planing mills, foundries, and machine shops. Retail business of all kinds is done along Kearney, the southern part of Montgom- ery, the upper part of Market, and along Third and Fourth Streets. Markets are scattered through the city. The Central is near Kearney to the west on Sutter Street, and the Calif ornian between Kearney and Montgomery Streets ex- tending through from Pine to California. Both are worth visiting, and display everything in the market line in rich profusion and perfect neat- ness and order. California Street and Mont- gomery at their junctions, are the great resort of the crowd dealing in stocks. All sorts of men may be seen there, between 9 A. M. and 6 p. M., hovering around quotations displayed on various brokers' bulletin-boards, and talking mines, for speculation centers in mining shares. Kearney Street and the southern part of Montgomery are the favorite promenade of ladies, and especially on Saturday afternoons, the Hebrew holiday, when a profusion of them, richly dressed and be jeweled, may be met there. The theaters are all near this region. Two of them are quite new. Wade's Opera House boasts the finest chandelier on earth, and Bald- win's Academy of Music is claimed to be unsur- passed on this Continent, in beauty of interior decoration and finish. Sidewalks throughout the city are wide and good. Most are of plank, many of asphaltum, which is well suited to the climate, the heat rarely being sufficient to soften it. A few are of cut stone or artificial stone. The last material is fast coming into favor for many uses. Streets are paved with cobbles, Russ pavement and plank, and off from lines of heavy business teaming, are macadamized. Wooden pavements are retained in many, but are not approved. The Nicholson pavement cannot be long kept down. It shrinks during the long dry summer, and with the first heavy rains swells and is thrown hopelessly out of place. Good paving material is not abundant, and the question is yet unanswered, what shall be the pavement of San Francisco in the future ? The water supply comes chiefly from reservoirs in the Coast Range Mountains south of the city, and is controlled by the Spring Valley Water Company. The rates are double and treble those charged in New York City, and are due monthly in advance. Many families pay more for their water than for their bread. It should be borne in mind, however, that some families use much more water for irrigating gardens and grass-plats, than for all household purposes. The only government building in San Fran- cisco that is finished and in use, and worth visit- ing, is the United States Mint, on Fifth Street, near Market. The machinery here is believed to be unapproached in perfection and efficiency. Visitors are admitted between 10 and 12 A. M. BANK OF CALIFORNIA. A Custom House is in process of erection, and a City Hall ; but both are far from completion. There are many fine buildings erected for business purposes. A number of new blocks of stores, on Kearney and Market Streets, combine spaciousness, solidity and elegance. The Ne- PUBLIC BUILDINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 1. City Park. 2. New City Hall. 3. General View of City, looking towards the Bay. 4. Merchants' Exchange. 6. View on Market Street 265 vada Block, the Safe Deposit Building, the Anglo Californian and the California Bank, the Mercantile Library and Merchants' Exchange, all combine pleasing and impressive features, and are thoroughly built and costly erections. The building, comer of California and Mont- gomery Streets, occupied by Wells, Fargo & Go's Express, was the first substantial erection in the city. It was imported from China, where the stone was all cut and fitted, ready for its place. One feature of San Francisco architecture is bay-windows. Few private houses are without proportion of the population live in lodgings and go out for their meals. The tendency to a more settled mode of life, however, increases, and a great number of private dwellings have been erected by individuals and building associations, of late years. The Real Estate Associates build and sell on an average a house a day, and have done so for three years past. They build by day's work, in thorough style, chiefly houses of six and eight rooms, and sell them for one-fifth cash, and the remainder in 72 monthly install- ments, based on 9 per cent, interest for the de- " HOODLUMS." them, and the last built hotels, the Grand, the Palace, and Baldwin's, have their whole surface studded with them, to the great comfort of their guests, and equal defacement of their external appearance. San Francisco is called the Bay City. It might well be named the "bay-win- dow city." The mildness of the climate and the instinctive craving for sunshine, are considera- tions which will always make bay-windows a desirable and a favorite feature here. A stranger will observe here the great number of restaurants and furnished lodgings. A large ferred payment. Most of the uniformly built blocks of detached houses in the city, were built by them. They always built detached houses, which are safer in case of fires. A great conflagration may overtake any city, but this is more secure than its wooden appear- ance indicates. Owing to the dampness from summer fogs and winter rains, and the liability of injury by earthquakes, wood is the only desir- able material for dwellings. Nearly all used is the sequoia, or redwood, so abundant in the Coast Range. It burns very slowly, compared SCENES IN THE HAKBOR OF SAN FRANCISCO. 267 with eastern woods, and the city has a very effi- cient steam fire department. The city cemeteries are yet west of the best residences, but agitation has already commenced looking to an end of interments within city lim- its. Lone Mountain, an isolated mound with- in the Roman Catholic Cemetery and surmounted by a large cross, lately blown down, has long been a noted landmark and gives its name to the re- gion adjoining, which is devoted to burying grounds. South from Lone Mountain lies the Golden Gate Park, in which the city justly takes great pride, and which is destined to become one of the most beautiful of city pleasure grounds in the United States. It was a waste of sand only five or six years since, but, by careful planting of the yellow lupin, the sand is subdued, and by irrigation, grass-plats have been created, and a forest of trees brought rapidly forward. The drives are fine, and, on pleasant days, thousands of carriages resort here. Driving is a Calif orni- an's weak point, and more money is expended by him on livery and private stables in proportion to his means and other expenditures, than by his brother-citizens of the " States." It is a natural result of plentiful money, long distances and few railroads. Racing is also much in vogue, and a fine race-track is laid out, near Lone Mountain, in full view from the Park. All the religious denominations are well repre- sented, and there are some fine buildings for worship, among which the Synagogue, on Sutter, the First Congregational Church, on Post, and St. Patrick's Cathedral, on Mission Street, are most notable. Benevolent mutual societies and secret orders are very numerous. Particulars concerning them and the churches, may be found in the city direc- tory. The free schools of the city are a just source of pride. They are provided for with a liberality, and conducted with a skill which make them of incalculable value to the city in all its interests. The Mercantile Library, the Mechanic's and the Odd Fellows,' are large and valuable, and the use of them may be obtained on easy terms. Roman's bookstore, on Montgomery, and Ban- croft's, on Market Street, are prominent among many good ones. Books are generally sold at publisher's prices, in gold. Bancroft is a large publisher of law books, and has erected a build- ing in which are carried on all departments of book-making. Excursions. For sight-seeing in San Fran- cisco, no plan will suit the convenience of every one, but the best for a few days is the following : Let the morning be spent in a ride to the Cliff House, where a good breakfast may be obtained, if not had sooner. The Cliff House toll-road has been the favorite route and is un- surpassed as a drive. The shell-road of New Orleans is no better. But the road through the Golden Gate Park, is splendidly macadamized, and should be traveled either going or returning. A drive should be taken along the beach to " Ocean House," and a return made to the city, through and over the hills. Coming into the city by this road, there bursts into view, one of the most magnificent sights on the coast. The city, the bay, Oakland and a vast extent of mountain, valley, loveliness of nature and art, are spread out below. If the Park can be re- served for a separate drive, go by the Cliff House Road, if not, go by the Park. The Cliff House may be reached also, by two lines of street-cars and omnibusses. The cost of a carriage for four persons will be $10.00 for the trip by omnibus and cars, one dollar for each person. The trip should be made as early as possible to avoid the wind and fog. The afternoon may be spent at Woodward's Gardens, making sure of the feeding of sea-lions at 1 or 3.30 o'clock. The aquarium is unique, suggested by one in Berlin, and has nothing like it in America. Birds, animals of various kinds, fruits, flowers, museum, art gallery and many other objects of attraction, make these gardens one of the chief attractions to tourists. They represent the Pacific Coast in its animals and curiosities, better than any other collection. Another morning, go up Clay Street Hill in the cars, and ride to the end of the route. Fine views will be seen of the city and bay, from many points, and some handsome residences will be passed. On descending, climb Telegraph Hill on foot, the only way in which it can be done, and enjoy the view in all directions. After lunch take the Market Street cars, and ride to Twenty-first Street. At Sixteenth Street, one will be near the old Mission Church, an adobe building dedicated in 1776. Having reached Twenty-first Street, cross to Folsom, and return in the North Beach & Mission cars to the city, leaving them where they cross Market, or at the end of their route, corner of California and Montgomery. These rides will take one through the portion of the city rapidly growing and extending toward the south-west. There will be time after returning, to walk about Kearney and Montgomery Streets, near Market, also up and down Market, and see the finest re- tail stores, and look at new buildings, or even to climb up California Street to Highland Terrace, and see some of the finest private residences in the city, among which D. I). Colton's and Gov- ernor Stanford's are specially notable, the former on the north side of California Street, the latter fronting on Powell at the corner of California. A pleasant place to visit is also the Mercantile Library on Bush Street, opposite the Cosmopoli- tan Hotel. Strangers, properly introduced, are granted the privilege of the library and reading- room free for a month, and odd hours can be put in there very pleasantly, especially in the read- 269 ing-room, which is light, cheerful, and supplied with the best papers, magazines and reviews of this and other lands. Another day one can go to Oakland early, take a carriage at Broadway Station and ride to Berk- ley, Piedmont, and through Brooklyn, or East Oakland, along Lake Merritt, up and down streets and around the city at pleasure. Fine houses, beautiful grounds, good roads, flowers, shade trees and pleasant sights are everywhere. Return- ing to the city in season for the 4 p. M. boat up the Sacramento River, one can take it as far as Martinez, a 2 1-2 or 3 hours' ride, and see the northern part of San Francisco Bay, San Pablo Bay, Benicia and Suisun Bay, leaving the boat at Martinez and there spending the night. Early next morning a stage will take one to Mount Diablo, and three hours can be spent on its sum- mit enjoying as fine a view as there is anywhere in California, after which the boat can be reached in season to be in San Francisco for the night, or one can stay for the night at a good hotel near the summit, see the sun rise, and return to San Francisco the next night. The fare for this round trip is ten dollars. Most of San Francisco has now been seen. It would be well to ride through Van Ness Avenue and see the fine residences there ; but one will begin to think of San Jose, Santa Cruz, the Gey- sers, &c. Another forenoon can be spent pleas- antly in the city by taking the Central line of horse-cars (cars with white dashers) through the fast-growing western addition to the city, to the end of the route at Laurel Hill Cemetery, and walking about there for an hour. Returning by the same line in season to get off near the United States Mint, at corner of 5th and Market Streets, by 11 A. M., one can visit that institution, which is daily open for visitors until noon. In the after- noon, at 3.25, one may go to San Jose. The route leads through beautiful villages, some of which have been selected for the residence, most, if not all the year, of wealthy gentlemen of San Francisco. San Jose will be reached in season for a walk or ride about the city. The Auzerais House is a first-class hotel, and carriages can be obtained there at reasonable rates. The Court- House and State Normal School are the chief public buildings. General Naglee's grounds, which are open to visitors, except on Sunday, are well worth a visit. If time allows, one may, by taking a private carriage, go to the New Almaden Quicksilver Mines, enjoy a fine ride, gaze upon a wide-spread- ing view upon, the summit of the hill, in which the mines are situated, see the whole under- ground process of mining, provided the superin- tendent will grant a permit to enter them, which is not likely, and return to San Jose the same day, or if not able to afford time for this, can go over to Santa Clara by horse-car, through the shady Alameda, three miles long, laid out and planted, in 1799, by the Padres of the mission, visit the two colleges there, one Methodist, the other Roman Catholic, and return in season for the morning train to Gilroy, Watsonville, etc., and reach Santa Cruz the same night ; or, if time will not allow of doing this, he may spend a lit- tle more time at San Jose and Santa Clara, ride out to Alum Rock Springs, through the Shaded Avenue, the prettiest drive in the State, and, taking the afternoon train, reach San Francisco at 5.35 P. M. Whoever goes to Santa Cruz will want to stay there two nights and a day, at least, and there are so many charming rides and resorts near this watering-place of the Pacific Coast, that many days can be spent there very agreeably. The trip back to the city, unless made by steamboat at night, which can be done sometimes, and is a pleasant variety for those who are not afraid of a short exposure to ocean waves and tossing, will occupy an entire day, and the arrival is at about 5.30 P. M. The next trip will naturally be to the Geysers and Calistoga, the Petrified Forest, White Sul- phur Spiings at St. Helena, etc., all of which are passed in the round trip. One may go by Cal- istoga, or return that way, as he prefers. Steam- boats start at 7 A. M. for Vallejo, and at 8 for Donahue Landing. By the first route, one con- nects with cars for Calistoga, and by the second, for Cloverdale, and from each place stages take one to the Geysers the same day. After seeing the Geysers, travelers usually go on so as to re- turn to San Francisco over the route they did not take coming to them, two days being required for the round trip, if one does not go to the White Sulphur Springs, which is a delightful place to spend a half-day, nor to the Petrified Forest, which is reached by a pleasant ride by private conveyance from Calistoga, and is a very interesting and romantic spot, and also requires a half day. To visit these one must take three days for the round trip. The fare for this trip, not including the carriage to the Petrified Forest, is sixteen dollars. As the time of tourists is variously limited, it is well to say that the time required for all the trips above described, is twelve days, allowing one day at Santa Cruz, and one day for return- ing from there to the city. Not all persons have so much time to spend. By omitting the visit to Santa Cruz, the Petrified Forest and White Sulphur Springs, one may save four days, and by omitting, also, the trip to Mt. Diablo, the western addition to the city, and the United States Mint, one may save three days more, start- ing for the Geysers, after spending three days in the city and seeing the Cliff House, Golden Gate Park, Woodward's Gardens, climbing Telegraph Hill and Clay Street Hill, seeing the Mission and south-western part of the city, and passing most of a day in Oakland. Should one do this, 270 it would be well to fill out the day begun in Oakland, by going through Van Ness Avenue, which is, and long will be, the finest street for private residences in the city. Two days more will enable one to visit the Geysers, and thus, in five days, all that is most notable in and about San Francisco, will have been seen. Tourists who have time enough for it will find a trip to Pescadero, very pleasant. The route is by stage from San Mateo or Redwood City, on the Southern Pacific Railroad, across the Contra Costa Range, a ride very well paying of itself for the whole cost of the trip. Pescadero is in a narrow valley, about three miles from the famous Pebble Beach, about 100 yards long, which gives it its chief attraction. Most home- like quarters and delightful cooking are found Rain falls only in the winter half of the year, and does not much exceed one-half of the amount in the same latitude on the Atlantic shore, and the number of rainy days is very small, since it is apt to rain hard if it rains at all. The atmos- phere in winter is quite moist, and though it is seemingly dry in summer, during the long ab- sence of rain, pianos and furniture, and wood- work generally do not shrink as in many places, owing, doubtless, to the prevailing cool winds from the ocean. It is rarely cold enough for frost ; plumber's work needs no protection, and hot days are equally rare, occurring only when the summer ocean winds yield for two, or at most three days, to winds from over parched and heated plains to the north. The air is rarely clear so as to reveal distinctly the outlines of hill and shore STREET SCENE IN SAN FEANCISCO. at Swanton's, and one will be taken to the beach and brought back from it at hours of his own choosing. At this beach one will linger and linger, picking up- finely-polished pebbles, many of which are fit to be set as jewels. Pescadero may be reached also by stage from Santa Cruz, and the ride along the coast is wild, interesting, unique and full of interest. The time required is a day, whether coming from San Francisco or Santa Cruz, and the same to return, and no one will spend less than a day there, so that to see Pescadero means three days, and there are few more enjoyable ways to spend so much time. Climate. The climate of San Francisco is peculiar, and can not be described in a few words. It is equable on the whole, there being no great range of temperature, and the difference between that of winter and summer being small. across the bay, a misty haze like that of eastern Indian summer, usually prevailing. After rains, and notably after frosts, and during the preva- lence of winds from the north this sometimes vanishes, and a crystal clearness of atmosphere succeeds, in which Mount Diablo and the hills of Contra Costa and Alameda stand out mellow and clear as though just at hand. At such times, which are not frequent, and at others, more often, when it is sunshiny and the air is calm, and the haze thin, there is a spring and vitality and exhilaration in the air, and beauty in all out- door nature not often surpassed. Something of this is realized in the early part of most summer days, if fog does not hang over the city. As the day advances, the wind from the ocean rises and pours in mightily, cold and fierce a bane and a blessing at once ; a bane because it destroys all 271 enjoyment of out-door existence, but a blessing because bearing away noxious exhalations, and securing health even to the most crowded and neglected quarters and thoroughfares. There are few days in San Francisco when it is safe to dispense with outer wrappings, and when a fire is not needed morning and evening, both for health and comfort, and fewer yet when a room with the sun shining into it is not amply warm enough while it shines. Sunshine is therefore earnestly coveted, and many are the regrets of those who do not enjoy it. It is rare for persons to seek the shady side of the street, instinct suggests the contrary. Rooms are ad- vertised as sunny, and many are so described which are sunny only a small part of the day. But whether the sun shines or not, it is never safe to sit by open windows or on door-steps without shawls, hats, or overcoats. Strangers do it sometimes, but never do it very long. San Francisco is not the place for out-door pleasur- ing. Bright and sunshiny and beautiful as it often is without doors, one prefers to look upon it from within, and if deciding to go out must wrap up almost as for a winter ride or walk in the older States. San Francisco has few pleasure resorts. Seal Rocks, at the mouth of the Golden Gate, attract many to ride to the Cliff House, and gaze at sea- lions gamboling and snorting and basking on its sides. It is a beautiful ride thence south on the beach a couple of miles to the Ocean House, and thence back to the city by Lake Merced. Golden Gate Park is, however, the chief resort for pleasure. It is new, and its charms and beauty are still in the future, but much has been done already, and the promise for time to come is ample. The reclamation of sand wastes and dunes by planting yellow lupin and their conversion into beautiful grass-plots is a notable feature of the success already attained, which elicits the admiration of all who contrast what they see in the park with the proof of what it was once, shown in the still shifting sands around it. The park embraces about 1,100 acres, and when the thousands and ten thousands of trees planted in it have gained their growth, which they are doing almost too fast for belief, and other improvements in progress are carried out, it will rank among the most attractive and admired city parks on the Continent. It is reached by several streets leading west from Mar- ket, but most of the many drivers and riders who resort there find their way either by Turk, Tyler or McAllister Streets. A favorite resort is also Woodward's Gardens. They are private property, and a quarter of a dollar is charged for entrance. It is a pleasant place to pass a half day visiting the collection of various living animals and birds, among which are camels born in the garden, and sea-lions caught in the Pacific, and paid for at the rate of seventy-five cents a pound. One big fellow, a captive for seven years, has grown to weigh over a ton. Sea-lions can be better studied at Wood- ward's than at Seal Rock, especially at the hour they are fed, when they do some fearful leaping and splashing. There are fine collections also of stuffed birds, and other curiosities, hot-houses with tropical plants, aquaria not surpassed on this Continent, a skating rink, arid many other attractive features. The grounds are spacious and well sheltered, and a pleasanter spot cannot be found within the city limits for whiling away a few hours. The city line of horse-cars leads to the gardens from Market Street Ferry by two routes for part of the distance, both joining on Mission Street, on which the gardens front. They cover over six acres, and almost every taste can be suited somewhere in them. The active and jolly can resort to the play-ground and gymnasium, and those who like quiet, will find shady nooks and walks ; those fond of sights and curiosities can spend hours in the various cabinets, and those who like to study mankind, can gaze on the groups standing around, and streaming passers-by. Through the whole sea- son, from April to November, it is always genial and sunny, and enjoyable there. Pleasure Resorts of California. Mineral Springs. California possesses an abundance of hot and mineral springs. Those most numerous are sulphur, both hot and cold. Of hot springs, the most frequented are Paso Robles in S. Luis Obispo Co., 143 miles by rail- road and 99 by stage from San Francisco, Gil- roy Hot Springs, 14 miles from the town of Gil- roy, 81 miles south from San Francisco on the Southern Pacific Railroad, and Calistoga, at the terminus of the Napa Branch of the California Pacific Railroad, 66 miles north from San Fran- cisco. Their waters are much used, both for drinking and bathing, with good repute for cura- tive results. What are called mud baths are taken at Calistoga and Paso Robles, and many other places. There is nothing so muddy about them as one w^ild fancy from the name, except at Paso Robles. They are simply baths taken in the spring itself just as it bubbles out of the ground, holding all its peculiar virtues unim- paired. At Paso Robles the mud baths are a literal plunging in thick mud. The waters of these springs, and of many others, must be used while retaining their original heat, and cannot be bottled to any purpose. The San Jose Warm Springs are only two hours from the city, but are not open to tourists. There are three noted springs which are re- sorted to by health and pleasure seekers, whose waters are bottled in large quantities. These ae the Napa Soda Springs, near Napa, and the Pacific Congress Springs, in the Coast Range, 10 miles from Santa Clara. They have been long 273 known, and are very freely used on this coast, especially during the summer months. They are bottled by machinery, so as to carry their natural volume of gas, and are highly recom- mended by the medical faculty. The last named is on account of its natural attractions and its accessibility, being only 4 hours' ride from San Francisco, a very favorite summer retreat from the city. The water is said to resemble very closely that of the far-famed Saratoga Springs, after which it is named, and contains a larger proportion of mineral contents than either of the others. The last of these, not yet named, is that of the Litton Seltzer Springs, near Healdsburg, not long introduced to the public, but coming fast into favor, and claimed, not only to equal, but even excel the far-famed Congress water. The analysis of these waters gives the follow- in^ results : NAP A SODA. Bicarbonate Soda, Carbonate Magnesia Carbonate Lime, Chloride Sodium, Sub -Carbon Iron, Sulphate Soda, . Siltoious Acid, . Alumina, . . . Loss, .... GRAINS IN A GALLON. 13.12 26.12 10.88 520 7.84 1.84 0.68 68.76 PACIFIC CONGRESS. Chloride Sodium, Sulphate Soda, . Carbonate Soda, Iron, " Lime, Silica Alumina and trace Magnesia, 119.159 12.140 123.351 14.030 17.295 49.882 335.857 GRAINS LITTON SELTZER. IX A GALLON. Carbo'ic Acid (comb.), 42.76 Chlorine 78.38 2.36 2.02 2.85 4.41 5.24 62.19 Sulphate Acid, . Silicic Acid, . . Oxide Iron, . . Lime, .... Magnesia, . . . Soda, .... Alumina, Ammonia, Potash, Lithiii, Boraeic Acid, Organic matter, 27.38 227.59 The quantity of free carbonic acid in the Lit- ton Seltzer, which escapes on standing, is 383.75 grains per gallon. This large quantity of gas is very pleasant to the taste, and tests severely the strength of bottles, which sometimes explode even in a cool place. The Paso Roble Springs (the name means Pass of Oaks) most used, have been analyzed with the following result : MAIN HOT SULPHUR SPRING. MUD SPRING. Temperature 110, 122 degrees. One imperial gallon con- tains, Sulphurated Hy- drogen Gas 4.55 3.28 inches. Free Carbonic Acid, . . 10.50 47.84 " Sulphate Lime 3.21 17.90 grains. Sulphate Potash, ... 88 traces. Sulphate Soda, .... 7.85 41.11 Perox Iron 36 Alumina 22 Silicia, 44 1.11 Bicarbonate Magnesia, . 92 Carbon. Mag., 3 10 Bicarbonate Soda, . . . 50.74 Carbon. Soda, 5.21 Chloride Sodium, . . . 27.18 96.48 lodi'e and Bromide trac's Organic Matter 64 3.47 Total solid contents, . 93.44 168.38 The Mud Spring contains also alumina and protoxide of iron. There are also three cold sul- 18 phur springs and three other hot springs, the hot- test of the temperature of 140 degrees. There is, also, a chalybeate spring. Paso Robles is re- sorted to with good results by persons suffering from rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and some constitutional disorders. They are no place for consumptives. There are many other springs besides those named. Near Lake Tahoe, are Soda Springs. Near Vallejo and at St. Helena, are White Sul- phur Springs. In Sonoma County, are Skaggs Hot Springs, and at Santa Barbara are springs much resembling those at Paso Robles. The Bartlett Springs are a delightful resort, and will amply pay for the time and cost going to them. They are reached by stage from Calistoga on the arrival of the morning train from San Francisco, going on 35 miles to Clear Lake, which is crossed by steamer, and a ride of six miles then brings one at evening to the springs. The ride is one of the most beaatif ul in California. The Geysers. Tourists will find the trip to the Geysers, the most interesting and easy of all the short excursions in the State. It is well to go by one route and return via another. The North Pacific Railroad via steamer by Donahue City, will give a delightful sail through the bay. Neat cars will convey the passengers to Clover- dale, where stages are taken for the Geysers. The ride to the Geysers is over a splendid road, amid beautiful mountain scenery, and occasion- ally there are examples of fine driving of the stage-teams. One day at the Geysers is usually enough, and the visitor will find it absolutely necessary to rise as early as 5 or 6 A. M., to see the finest display of steam from the Geysers. The ground literally boils and bubbles under the feet. There are devil's inkstands, and cal- drons, and tea-kettles, and whistles enough to overwhelm eyes, ears, smell, taste and touch with horrid reminiscences. Yet so great is the curios- ity it should not be missed. Neither must the traveler omit the enjoyment of the natural steam bath, the sensation on emerging from which is most delicious. From the Geysers to Calistoga, the celebrated Foss drives a crack stage, and usually has his spanking team of six- in-hand. Reports are strong as to his fearless driving, but a glance at the way he beautifully manages his leaders and wheelers, gives no one any anxiety as to safety. The stage route is over very great heights, up the side of long mount- ains, from the summits of which the views are glorious, probably to many, more enjoyable than the Geysers. The tourist must not fail, as he returns to San Francisco, to stop at Calistoga and visit the Pet- rified Forest the best collection we know ; and even a few days' tour to Lake County and the famous soda and borax deposits will be well spent. From Calistoga to Vallejo, stop at Napa and take stage to the famous vineyards of So- 274 noma, and see grape raising in perfection ; also visit the Spout Farm and the Soda Springs. From Vallejo, go to Benicia, 8 miles and visit the fort, where often there are seen charming displays of flowers. Then cross to Martinez, by ferry, and visit the fruit orchards of Dr. Strentzel, where oranges and pears and peaches and ap- ples grow side by side, and twine their branches together, probably the choicest fruit orchard in the State. From here ascend Mount Diablo and remain over night, witnessing the sunrise scene on all the great valleys and the bay spread out so grandly before you. Descending, the traveler will return to Vallejo, and thence by steam through the bay to San Francisco. The cost of this trip will be, for round trip ticket, $16 to Geysers and return. Extra for trip to Mount Diablo, about $8. Board per day, in absence, $3 gold. Time for whole trip, about one week. Hints to Invalids. California has been the scene of many remarkable recoveries of health, and of many sore disappointments to in- valids who thought that coming to this coast would insure them a new lease of life. There is no doubt that a judicious availing of its pecu- liar climatic features is highly useful in many cases, and it is equally certain that an arbitrary resort to them may even hasten the end which one seeks to avert. A consumptive patient should never come to San Francisco expecting benefit from its climate. Cold winds from the Pacific, often loaded with fog, prevail eight or nine months in the year, for a good part of the day, and make warm wrap- pings necessary for well persons. When these trade-winds cease, the rainy season then commen- ces, variable and uncertain, often very damp and chilly, the sky sometimes clouded for days in succession. In the interval between rains and summer winds, both spring and autumn, there is a period of variable duration, when the sky is often clear, the air balmy, the sun genial, and everything in the outer world is charming and exhilarating ; but this period is not sufficiently fixed to be counted on, and is liable to be inhos- pitably broken upon by raw winds, and chilly, foggy days. The cause which thus unfavorably affects the climate of San Francisco in so marked a degree, spread out as it is along the Golden Gate, the only interruption for hundreds of miles to the lofty Coast Range, erected as a barrier between the cold, foggy ocean on one hand, and the spreading central basin, gleaming bright and hot with sunshine on the other, affects in some de- gree many other places along the sea-coast. At a sufficient distance inland, the ocean breezes are tempered, and there are places hear the sea-shore where the trend of the coast and outjutting headlands break the force of the trade-winds, and give delightful shelter from them. It is this circumstance which gives to Santa Barbara its celebrity. It lies on a bay facing to the south, the usual coast-line facing south-west, and is in the lee of Point Conception, a bold headland which turns away from it most of the cold ocean winds. San Rafael, near San Francisco, nestles under the lee of Tamalpais and adjacent hills, and is also sheltered. In a direct line, it is not over six or seven miles from San Francisco, and yet, when it is foggy or unutterably windy in the city, it is often warm, clear and still there. The consumptive patient should carefully avoid exposure to the trade-winds by seeking some resort sheltered from them, or which they reach after being thoroughly tempered by inland travel. Neglect to heed this caution is the reason of many fatal disappointments experienced by Cali- fornia visitors seeking health. In the summer season, beyond the range of the ocean trade-winds, the choice between locations for invalids in California will be governed as much by other, as their climatic advantages. Ease of access, hotel and boarding-house accom- modations, social advantages, sources for amuse- ment, comparative expense, are the considerations that will chiefly weigh in deciding the question. Sunshine will be found everywhere; the days, however hot, are always followed by cool nights ; there are no storms, no sudden changes, the air is dry and clear and life-inspiring. In winter it is desirable to go well south, where there is little rain and little cold weather, though even at San Diego, almost at the Mexican line, a fire is very comfortable sometimes, as the wri- ter experienced one 10th of January, much to the surprise of some eastern invalids who arrived there with him. It will be wise for invalids to consult the physician best acquainted with the place they may choose, and carefully heed his ad- vice about exposure, clothing, wrappings and the like. Every place has climatic features of its own, knowledge of which is gained only by experience and is of great value. The following places, are known as health re- sorts, and each has attractive and valuable fea- tures of its own : San Rafael near San Fran- cisco, and Stockton in the San Joaquin Valley, Santa Barbara and San Diego on the southern coast, Paso Robles north from Santa Barbara, and back from the coast, a beautiful spot noted for sulphur baths; San Bernardino north-east from San Diego, and some distance from the coast, and fast coming into favor as it becomes more accessible and better known. Gilroy Hot Springs, 14 miles from Gilroy, on the Southern Pacific Railroad, 30 miles south of San Jose, is a favorite resort. It is in the hills of the Coast Range, and has good accommodations for vis- itors. Calistoga, at the terminus of the Napa Branch of the California Pacific Railroad, at the foot of Mount St. Helena, abounds in hot springs, and is resorted to for its baths of various kinds. On the railroad going to Calistoga the 275 White Sulphur Springs are passed at a distance of two miles. They are much frequented, but rather by visitors seeking summer recreation than by health seekers. The best place for the consumptive patient is regarded by some good judges to be on an eleva- tion among the hills of the Coast Range in sum- mer, where the change of temperature will be only a few degrees, and in Southern California, a little back from the coast in winter. In such an equable climate, the patient can camp out, and keep in the open air, which is the best pos- sible restorative. , The climate of San Francisco, which induces no perspiration, and by dampness aggravates rheumatic and neuralgic affections, is the most favorable in the world for mental invigoration and work. Malaria is found in all the lowlands, and often among the foot hills, but elevated places are entirely free from it. In short, there is such a variety of climate within a day's reach of San Francisco that the invalid may be sure of finding, somewhere on the Pacific Coast, whatever natural advantage will be most beneficial to his case. California Pacific Railroad. On the California Pacific Railroad two trains leave Sacramento daily for San Fi'ancisco, one at 6.30 A. M., and one 4 p. M. This is the short- est and favorite route between the capital and metropolis, and will no doubt ere long be the principal line over which the Overland Express Train will pass. The train crosses the river by means of a "Y" and the Sacramento & Yolo bridge. Directly op- posite Sacramento is the. village of Washington, protected by a high levee, but retarded in growth by the toll for crossing the river. Along the river bank is a narrow strip of land sufficiently elevated for farming but the train is soon beyond this on trestle-work, or a high embankment crossing the tules. On this narrow strip the ubiquitous pea-nut and chickory grow to perfec- tion. No pea-nut surpasses these in size or flavor, and the chickory commands a price equal to the German. Coffee men consider it of superior quality, and the traveler will find it abundant in the pure coffee of all the hotels in the interior. The tule land is the richest in the State a fine vegetable mold and deposit from the winter floods. Many square miles of it up and down the river await reclamation, and much has been reclaimed. It will be difficult to reclaim the great extent of it now before the eye, because on the right of the railroad and several miles up the river, the waters of Cache Creek spread out and sink, and on the left the waters of Putah Creek are also emptied, and high levees would be re- quired to carry off so much water. These tules are the temporary abode of some, and the perma- nent abode of other varieties of wild fowl, and the happy hunting grounds for many a Nimrod. After the first rains come, the geese arrive, the white brant coming first and in largest numbers. Three varieties are common, the white and speckled breasted brant, and the hawnker. Acres of the ground, where the dry tule has been burned off and the young grass has sprouted are covered with the geese, and sometimes they are like a great cloud in the air, and their noise heard for a mile or more. The varieties of the duck are many, but the mallard, sprig tail, canvas-back, and teal are most esteemed. It is an easy and pleasant task for one acquainted with the flight of the ducks to bring down from twenty to a hundred in a single day, besides more geese than he is willing to " pack." About five miles from Sacramento is an island (of a hundred acres, dry and grassy) where two or three days camping may be en- joyed by a lover of the sport. When the Sacramento overflows its banks and the creeks are high, the tules are hidden by the water, and if the wind blows, this region is like an open sea. Frequently the road-bed has been washed away, and now it is protected by an inclined breakwater and young willows. It has been generally but erroneously supposed tha; hogs and the Chinamen feed on the tule roots. The bulbous root they eat is called by the Chinese " Foo tau," and is imported largely from China, where it grows to a greater size than in this country. Across the tules at Swingle's Ranche is a side track and flag station. Davisville is 13 miles nearly due west of Sacramento, has a population of 300, all gath- ered since the building of the railroad, and has two stores, a dozen saloons, four restaurants, and a Presbyterian, a Methodist Episcopal, and a Roman Catholic Church. About the same pro- portion of saloons to the population holds good over California, but that of churches does not, But " Davisville is not an immoral place, for the liquor is all sold to non-residents" In 1862 land was worth from $6 to $10 per acre, and now sells at $75 to $100. Near Davisville are large orchards, " Brigg's " covering 400 acres, and the " Silk Ranche " or- chard 250 acres, but in dry seasons the quantity and quality of the fruit, is greatly impaired by the want of irrigation. The failure of silk culture was largely owing to the hot winds from the north, killing the worms. Attention to fruit culture, has demon- strated the necessity of allowing nothing to grow between the trees. Nor are the trees trimmed so high up as in the Eastern States. Alfalfa has yielded in one season, $55 worth of hay to the acre. At Davisville the railroad to San Francisco, turns directly to the south, and a branch runs north to Woodland and Knight's Landing. 276 Woodland is a town of 1,000 inhabitants, and 9 miles from Davisville. Near Woodland the road branches to the northern part of the valley of the Sacramento, but is not yet opened for business. Knight's Landing is on the Sacramento River, and this railroad formerly continued on north- ward to Marysville, until the flood of 1872 de- stroyed the embankment for miles. Continuing south from Davisville, Putah Creek is crossed near Davisville, a dry channel in summer, and a torrent in winter ; and 4 miles south is Foster, a side track, and 4.17 miles farther, Dixon is reached. It has a large grain trade from the surrounding country, a Congre- gational, a Methodist and a Baptist Church ; several hotels and a block or two of good stores. Since the completion of the railroad the town of Silveyville, about three miles distant, has been moved bodily to Dixon. Farther south 3.27 miles, is Batavia, a village in a promising region, with a large grain trade, a hotel and several stores, and next south 4.83 miles, is Elmira, formerly called Vaca Junction, the junction of the Elmira and Vacaville Railroad, ex- tending to Vacaville five miles, and Winters 17 miles. Fare to Vacaville 50 cents, and Winters $1.70. South from Elmira 3.96 miles is Ctinnon'Sf a large ranch e, and C.55 miles farther is Fail-field and Suisun City. The former is on the right-hand side of the road, and the other on the left. Fail-field is the county-seat of Solano County, and Suisun the post-office and business center. Fail-field has a Methodist Epis- copal Church, and Suisun a Protestant Episcopal, a Cumberland Presbyterian and a Methodist Episcopal. Suisun is at the head of Sui- sun Slough, navigable for small sloops and steamers, and on the edge of a large tract of tule land. Its streets are subject to a slight overflow during heavy rains, when its adobe soil is a very tenacious friend to one's feet. The hills which have been approaching closer and closer since we left Sacramento one of the numerous ridges of the Coast Range are now not far off, and to avoid the grades in crossing them, a new road will soon be built along the edge of the " swamp and overflowed " land to Benicia, on the straits of Carquinez, and crossing these will continue along the east side of the San Pablo Bay and Bay of San Francisco, to Oakland Wharf and form part of the Overland Route. Before reaching the next station, a small spur of the Suscol Hills is tunneled, and to the right from Bridr/eport,5A5 miles from Suisun, and other points, may be seen fertile valleys in which the earliest fruits of the State are grown. In Green Valley one of these, sheltered from wind and free from fog, fruits and vegetables ripen sooner than in the paradise of Los Angeles, about 400 miles south. The tourist will be struck with the rolling character of the farming land, when he sees the highest hill-tops covered with golden grain or thick stubble. The soil is the rich adobe, the best adapted to dry seasons, and rarely found cov- ering such hills. The crops are brought off on sleds. Ci'eston, the summit, is 3.84 miles from Bridgeport, and simply a flag station. Soon after passing it, the Napa Valley lies below on the right, but almost before one is aware of it, Napa Junction, 3.65 miles from Creston, is announced. Ifapa Valley. Here the road branches through Napa Valley, one of the loveliest and most fruitful of the State. It is enclosed between two ridges of the Coast Range, one of which separates it from the Sacramento and the other from the Sonoma Valley. Above Calistoga, Mount Saint Helena stands like a great sentinel across the head of the valley. The land is among the best in the State, and fruit growing extensively and success- fully practiced. The climate is well tempered and the season rare when crops fail. This branch is a part of one of the chief routes to the Geysers and other popular resorts. The first station north from the Junction is called Thompson t from the owner of the ranche and orchard, which will strike the observer as closely related to the perfect arrangement and culture of the farms in Chester or Cumberland Valley of Pennsylvania, and a closer inspection would reveal one of the most convenient and complete farm-houses in the country. Suscol, a landing-place and ferry on the Napa River, is near by. The next station is 4.49 miles farther north, and called Napa. A town of great loveliness, with a population of 5,000, set in homes embosomed in fruits and flowers a town not surpassed for beauty of situation in the State, and rivaled by San Jose only. It is at the head of navigation for steamers of light draft on the Napa River, and near it is located the new Branch Insane Asylum, erected at a cost of more than a million of dollars. The public schools rank high, and there are also four colleges and seminaries of high order. The Register is a daily and weekly newspaper, and the Reporter, a weekly. It has two good hotels, the " United States," and The Palace, many stores of high order, and good bank- ing facilities. In no portion of the State is soci- ety more stable and cultivated. The churches are imposing and well attended. The Presbyte- rians have the largest, most convenient and taste- 277 ful house of worship outside of San Francisco and Oakland, and the Methodists, Baptists and lioinan Catholics have good houses also. Daily stages connect with the morning train for So- noiua. Above Napa, 5.45 miles, is Oak Knoll, near which is hidden in a park of evergreen oaks, the pleasant residence of It. B. Woodward, Esq., one of the most enterprising and public-spirited men of California, near which may be seen his orchard, one of the largest and best in the county. Yountville is 3.45 miles farther north, a vil- lage with about 300 inhabitants, called after one of the early settlers. Near the depot is a large vinery. On the hill-sides are numerous vineyards, and in the village a Baptist and a Congregational Church. St. Helena is a village of about 500 inhab- itants, surrounded with ranches where people of culture live in luxury, and two miles distant are the White Sulphur Springs. Stages for the Springs connect with every train, and for Knox- ville in Lake County, with every morning train from San Francisco. Presbyterians, Baptists, and Methodists have churches here. The valley grows narrower until CaltKtoga, is reached, with a population of about 500, and two hotels one the " Hot Springs." Here are hot and mud baths, and from Calis- toga are numerous pleasant drives, especially to the Petrified Forest, five miles distant, on the top of the ridge lying toward the ocean, and in a sunken part of the high table-land where there was evidently a lake after trees had attained an enormous growth, and long after this the waters of the lake discharged by some sudden rupture of the surrounding wall. The mountain views, hunting, fishing and other attractions, make Calistoga a popular resort, and the recent discovery of many quicksi 1 ver and silver mines has given a fresh impetus to the business of the town. The population is about 700, but varies with the summer freighting to Lake County. Foss's line of stages leaves every morning during the summer for the Geysers, and stages leave daily on arrival of morning train from San Francisco for Bartlett's and other resorts of Lake County, continuing toward San Francisco on the main line. Vallejo. The pronunciation of this Spanish word is Val-yay-ho, and the town was named in honor of an old family still residing there. Just before approaching the town, the " Or- phans' Home," set upon a hill, and under the auspices of the I. O. Good Templars, attracts at- tention. It is on the left-hand side, and the town on the right. At the depot, street-cars connect with all the trains, and carriages to any part of the city may be had for " four bits ; " the " bit " being equiv- alent to the old New York shilling. The station for the town is called North Vallejo, to distinguish it from the new town that has grown around the railroad terminus, one mile south. Vallejo was for a while the capital of the State. It has now a population of about 5,000, and de- rives much of its business from the United States Navy Yard on Mare Island. It has a Methodist, a Presbyterian, a Baptist and a Roman Catholic Church, and South Vallejo has also a Congregational Church. Vallejo \\i\s a stage to Benicia, eight miles, and the steamer Parthenius runs daily to San Francisco, in ad- dition to the steamers that connect twice a day with the trains on the California Pacific Rail- road. Its wharves are in deep water, and at them the immense quantities of grain brought from the valleys north, are loaded direct for Liver- pool and other parts. A large elevator the only one tried on the coast, was blown down during a south-east gale. The town has two newspapers, the Chronicle, a weekly, and the Independent, a daily. At South Vallejo, 24 miles from San Fran- cisco, passengers are transferred to a steamer, and by it transported to the foot of Market Street, in San Francisco. On board the steamer a good meal may be secured, for one dollar coin ; and a trip to San Francisco, for which an hour and a half, or two hours will be necessary, according to steam and tide, will be delightfully occupied with the attractions of the bay and the bordering hills. As the steamer leaves the wharf, the view of the Navy Yard is fine, and when it doubles the island, the straits of Carquinez, through \\hich the Sacramento River empties, are immediately on the left, and when fairly out on the San Pablo Bay. by looking to the north, the town of Vallejo on the hill, and the Navy Yard on the island, appear to be one city. West of Vallejo may be traced the Napa Valley, and farther west, the Sonoma Valley, so famous for its wines, and far off to the north-west the Petaluma Creek, which forms an opening to the Russian River Valley, through which the North Pacific Railroad runs to Clover- dale, and forms a pleasant route to the Geysers. These valleys are parallel to each other but separated by lofty ridges of the Coast Range. After making this general survey of the north- ern end of the bay and then having breakfast or dinner, one will be in sight of the western me- tropolis. The city comes into view as the steam- er turns, to the south-east, around a point of land, off which are the "Two Brothers," corresponding to the " Two Sisters " on the west side, and enters the Bay of San Francisco. On one of the Brothers is a light-house of the fifth order, and just below is Red Rock, a bold and pretty land- mark. Off to the right is Mt. Tamalpais, with a shoot for lumber, that looks like a swift road to 278 travel, and at the foot of the mountain, nestled in a deep little cove, and overlooking the sheltered waters near by, is San Rafael, the home of some merchant princes of San Francisco, and the resort of many invalids, who are seeking a new lease of life in its genial clime. On the point of land just south of San Rafael, is San Quentin, where the State has a large boarding-house and workshop filled with unwilling inmates. Farther south-east is Angel Island separated from the promontory of the coast main-land by Raccoon Straits, through which one may look into the Golden Gate. The island is a military reservation, fortified strongly on the south and south-west parts, with a road running around the entire island. Passing the island, the Golden Gate is directly on the right, and Alcatraz, a naval station, mid- way across it, and directly in front, the hills of San Francisco, that ought to have been terraced. On the east, beginning farther north are Berk- ley, with the buildings of the State University; ,and Oakland, the city of residences, and gardens; Alameda, of like character, but of less extent, and more live oaks; and in the bay the Oakland Wharf and Goat Island. Never, except during severe winter storms, or the prevalence of heavy fog, is the navigation of the bay unpleasant, and on a calm morning when the waters are placid, the skies Italian, and the mind free from anxious care, the bay from Vallejo to San Francisco will make some of the brightest and most lasting impressions of the Golden State. THE CHINESE IN SAN FRANCISCO. BY F. E. SHEARER. These queer looking people, with loose gar- ments, umbrella hats, or skull-caps, rags for hose, pantaloons made ankle tight by tapes ; wooden shoes, coppery skin, high cheek-bones, almand eyes, half-shaved heads, jet black hair, and dangling pig-tail*, are the hated of the Paddy, the target of hoodlums ; the field of the missionary, the bomb for the politician to ex- plode, and the sinew for capital. They are called the essence of all that is vicious, villairi- ous, and certainly are opinionated. They are everywhere ; even the boys say they cannot throw stones without hitting them, but they are to be best seen in the Chinese quarters of San Fran- cisco, from Pacific Street, the " Barbary Coast," to Sacramento Street, and from Kearney to Stockton, five squares by two, in the heart of the oldest part of the city. Although in every block, and near every door, their special quarter is almost like a city of the ''Middle Flowery Kingdom" set right down in our midst. Streets and alleys, and labyrinthian windings, not only such as we tread, are theirs ; but, they live and travel under ground and over roofs, up and down, until the cunning policeman is outwitted in following them; and all their streets and by-ways are swarming with human or inhuman inhabitants, but little less numerous than the rats and the vermin. Cellars and lofts seem equally good for either lodgings, factories, shops, or laundries, and apartments of ordinary height are cut in two with a ladder to ascend to the loft, reminding us of the log-cabin days in the back- woods, or the wild frontier. Buildings are made more capacious by rude balconies from the second stories, that almost touch over the narrow passages beneath. The Globe Hotel, corner of Jackson and Dupont Streets, three stories high, with about 60 rooms, is inhabited by about 1,500 Celestials, and the heads of the Chinamen in their bunks, must look like the cells of a honey-cornb. Steamship hold, cemetery vault, Roman catacomb, or Egyptian pyramid could hardly be better packed. Health. The narrow streets are wide enough for hucksters, wood-piles, chicken-coops, tempo- rary pig-pens, baskets and poles, and all sorts of foul rubbish, and just wide enough for our noses. These streets may center in open courts that reek in filth, or lead one from treading where death-dealing vapors ooze through the loose boards on which he walks, to dwellings, where the floors are easily lifted to secure sewer accommodations in pools or vats beneath ; but with all this, the Chinamen seem to thrive best, and huddle closest where it is darkest and most dismal, and where sunlight never enters. Leprosy is said to exist, but if competent medi- cal authorities have so pronounced any of their loathsome diseases, it is not generally known, or else the leprosy is not of a contagious character. There are loathsome diseases among them, and especially among the prostitutes, by which even small boys are infected, but no wide-spread pestilence has ever been known among them, and the death-rate is not excessive. Their funeral customs and places of burial make the concealment of the dead far more un- likely than when some victim is chopped to pieces and stowed away a la practices not unknown to American criminals. Personal Habits. Inoculation in child- hood is universal, and they seem to come out of their filth as the eel from his skin, with a per- sonal cleanliness that is marvelous, and to most, incredible. So far as the secret of their anoma- lous health and personal cleanliness can be de- 279 tected, it is in their practice of daily ablution. They bathe as if it were a sacred duty, and in Washington Territory will cut through the winter ice to find the necessary water, and the tooth-brush is a daily companion. The cue is regarded with patriotic pride. It and the tonsure were introduced into China in 1644, as a mark of acceptance of, and subjection to the Tartar rule, and en- forced by the favor of the courts, to all litigants who wore the cue, and by reject- ing in the lit- erary examina- tions all candi- dates who ap- peared without it, and even by death in some cases, until at length the mark of deris- ion became the badge of honor, and now every Celestial carries this flag of his country, no less dear than his own head. It is formed by separating the unshaven hair 011 the crown of the head, three or four inches in diameter, into three strands and braiding with it coarse silk or false hair, until in cases of the am- bitious it reaches to with- in three inches SCENE IN ALLEY, CHINESE QUARTERS, SAN FRANCISCO. of the ground. Sometimes it is worn for conven- ience in a coil around the head or the neck, but it is a mark of disrespect to have it coiled thus in the presence of superiors more insulting than to enter a Fifth Avenue cathedral or orthodox church and sit with the hat on the head. The head of those who can afford it, is shaved once in ten or fifteen days. The razor is triangu- lar in shape, about two inches long, and an inch wide at one end, hollow ground and weighing about two ounces. The metal is of such excellent quality that the razors are often bought by Americans for the steel only. Tonsorial operations are performed with great skill, and there are delicate instruments for swab- bing the ears, pulling hairs out of the nostrils, and cleaning the eyelids on both under and upper sides. The sign of the barber-shop, is a four- legged frame the legs painted green, and the knobs on top painted red. As the cue is the badge of servitude to the present dynasty of China, no one can become an American citizen, or " de- clare his inten- tions" and re- tain this, for it proclaims that in political mat- ters, he is not his own master, but the slave of the Emperor, and hence ap- pears the ab- surdity of those who deny the sincerity of the profession of the Chris- tian religion, made by some Chinamen who retain their cue. An En- glish subject who unites with an American church, is not required or ex- pected for this reason, to re- nounce his al- legiance to the Queen. Chinese Quarters. The most interesting objects to be seen in the Chinese quarters are stores, shops, restaurants and temples, or Joss houses, 'and opium smoking places, although some of the tourists visit viler abodes, out of curiosity. A visit to the Chinese quarters may be made in daylight or by night, and with or without a policeman. The writer has frequently passed through the alleys and streets of Chinatown with- 280 out the protection of policemen, and never ex- perienced the least indignity. The only occasion when he failed to receive the strictest courtesy and deference was on intruding upon a company " at rice,'' (when they do not like to be disturb- ed) and introducing a large company of friends, one of whom said he came from New York, when one of the Chinamen grinned from ear to ear, ex- claiming, "You foolee me he Irishman, he Irishman." Those desiring the protection of a policeman can secure the services of one by applying to the Chief of Police in the City Hall. Compensation should be made privately. Two dollars and a half is a sufficient fee, but visitors should pay their own admittance to the Chinese theater. The Six Companies. It is hard to estimate the birds of a large flock that come and go with spring and fall, and the Chinese are always travel- ing to and from the Celestial Empire, and no census taker, or poll tax gatherer has ever been guilty of the sin of numbering them. Whoever can be caught is squeezed for taxes, and no mat- ter whether he has paid or not, he can pay for some one that can not be caught. The number of the people is variously estimated, but may be given as follows : The Ming Yung Company, Hop Wo Company, Kong Chow Company, Yung Wo Company, Sam Yap Company, Yen Wo Company, Scattering, Total, 63,000 43,000 13,000 13,000 11,000 6,000 1,000 150,000 Of these 65,000 are in California, and 30,000 in San Francisco. Of the whole number about 50,- 000 are women, children and merchants. Emigration is carried on through Hong Kong, a British port, the Chinese from the province of Kwangtung going via this port. It is not prob- able that it could be wholly prevented as long as the Chinamen can make money here. At the end of the year 1851, not 4,000 had come to America. But the reports of the open country, and plenty of gold, brought 18,000 in 1852, and alarmed the Californians, so that the next year only 4,000 came, and the average of arrivals since, has not been 5,000 a year. We have often been told of "passage engaged ahead for thousands,'" that " enough are coming the present year to overrun us," but the prophe- cies are somewhat akin to those of the world's destruction. The books of the Custom House, show the ar- rivals since 1868 to have been as follows, but of departures and deaths, there is no reliable record. YEAB. 1868, 1869, 1870, 1871, 1872, 1873, MALE. 10,024 11,710 9,666 4,864 8,812 16,605 FEMALE. 256 1,540 645 100 565 516 TOTAL. 10,280 13,252 10,318 4,964 9,377 17,121 YEAR. 1874, 1875, January, 1876, February, 1876, March, 1876, MALE. 11,743 18,090 1.170 1,197 1.872 FEMALE. 307 858 7 TOTAL. 12,950 18,448 1,177 1,197 1,872 95,753 4,296 100,049 As to the object and power of these companies there is a difference of opinion. Some assert they are about absolute for all purposes of government, importing men and women, making and enforcing contracts for labor and passage, settling disputes, and by means of hired assas- sins killing at their pleasure, any one for whom they choose to offer a reward. This and more everything that can be said against them is believed by more than every Irishman, and on the other hand, those who have lived in China, in the service of the American or English government, and missionaries who speak and read the Chinese language, deny to the com- panies any such extent of power or purpose, and the Chinamen universally deny it. It is certain that these organizations are pro- tective, that they are practically emigration and aid societies, that they care for the sick, send some of the destitute back to China, settle dis- putes by arbitration, and possess such power that the officials of the companies are sometimes "bound over " for the members to keep the peace, and by an arrangement with the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, prevent the return of any one to China who has not paid his debts, and gather up and return to China the bones of all the dead belonging to the respective companies. They have no criminal power, and if American officials did not co-operate with and encourage the companies they would have much less in- fluence and importance. Previous to coming, Chinamen have often no knowledge of the exist- ence of the companies. A family may accumu- late means to send one of their number, not from Cork, but Hong Kong, and on his arrival he usu- ally allies himself to one of the companies for mutual assistance and protection, and the six companies may also advertise in China to induce some to emigrate. Nearly all Chinamen in America are from the province of Kwantung, of which Canton is the principal city, and hence only the Cantonese dialect is spoken here. The part of the province from which they come usually determines what company each will join. No fee is exacted for membership or initiation. A washing guild, or organization that fixes rates for washing, etc., has often been confound- ed with the Six Companies. It is a trades- union, independent of the companies. Trades- unions are as common in China as in America, and it is not surprising therefore that they fix here the prices of washing, and allow no new wash-house within certain limits of another, and keep wages high enough to secure the most 281 money, and low enough to sicken the Irishman that competes with them. The Women. These are all of the lowest order, excepting perhaps 150 out of the thou- sands here. The manner of dealing with them is like that with Ah Hoe, as follows : " An agreement to assist the woman Ah Hoe, because coming from China to San Francisco she became indebted to her mistress for passage. Ah Hoe herself asks Mr. Yee Kwan to advance for her .f 630, for which Ah Hoe distinctly agrees to give her body to Mr. Yee for service as a pros- titute for a term of four years. There shall be no interest on the money. Ah Hoe shall receive no wages. At the expiration of four years Ah Hoe shall be her own master. Mr. Yee Kwan shall not hinder or trouble her. If Ah Hoe runs away before her time is out, her mistress shall find her and return her, and whatever expense is incurred in finding her Ah Hoe shall pay. On this day of the agreement Ah Hoe has received with her own hands f 630. If Ah Hoe shall be sick at any time for more than ten days she shall make up by an extra month of service for every ten days of sickness. Now this agreement has proof. This paper received by Ah Hoe is witness. YUXG CUKE, 12th year, 9th month, 14th day. In October, 1873", Ah Hoe came to Mr. Gibson's school for protection, saying she had been beaten and ill-treated and gave this con- tract as an evidence that she had been held in slavery. The money she had held in her hands a few seconds, being compelled to pass it immedi- ately over to her employer. She was taken to Hong Kong by her mistress and shipped to this country. Tax Paying. In San Francisco 324 per- sons or firms, are assessed for personal property, and the valuation is -1531,300. Of city tax 15,012, /. e., .943 of the whole was collected last year, and of the State tax $2,896.59, i. e., .90 of the whole was collected ; a much larger propor- tion than the whole roll will show for other tax- payers. One of the tea-importing firms is as- sessed for personal property at $23,000, and another at $22,500, and six firms at $10,000 or upwards. On real estate it is impossible to ascertain the amount of assessment, but it is certain that some of the people are so well pleased with the country as to consider it a desirable home, or else so shrewd in business as not to fear speculations in real estate, in which they often make fortunate turns. They never trouble any board of equalization for a reduction of their assessment, and if their assessments are made surprisingly low, may Allah forgive the error for such is not the inten- tion, and strange as it may seem the names of Chinese real estate owners are never found on the delinquent tax-list. Some of the Chinamen are reputed to be worth from $100,000 to $200,000. Striking Characteristics. They are -in- dustrious, working early and late, are peaceable, never giving offense in the street. They are thievish, and clannish, and have many vices, but they never garrote the belated club- man ; they will lie, but their honesty in deed and word is not a whit below any mercantile class, and their veracity is as good as the average in the same sphere of labor. Economy is seen in shrewd bargains, in cheap living, in picking up the gold in the tail- ings that slips through the fingers of the Ameri- can miner, in roasting his pork by the carcass and selling it to save the services of many cooks and the cost of many fires. The cobbler pursues his avocation on the street, reminding one of the horseback rider during the war, who was shaken heartily and awakened by a stranger who desired to know what he paid for lodgings. For the cobbler a candle-box will fur- nish a seat, and all his tools and stock in trade be carried about in another small box or basket. They can live for about eight or ten cents a day, but the average cost of the working class is about thirty cents. Skill in Imitating. They are great imi- tators, and so far as known, do they not furnish a striking illustration of the truth of the theory of natural selection? Do not their caudal appendages and power of imitation show their relation to the monkey, and the link they form in the development of the race ? They are servile imitators. The sea captain who had an oil painting injured, and gave it to a Chinese artist to reproduce, was amazed to see the reproduction of the gash, and the Chinese tailor who "followed copy" in making the new coat with a patch on the elbow, needed his ideas enforced with 'blows, yet they never ex- hibit the stupidity of the new coachman, who was sent to grease the carriage, and returned in half an hour, saying he had " greased it all ex- cept the sticks the wheels hang on." They are more than imitators, for the ingenious heathen Chinee can produce more expedients from his fertile brain than Ah Sin aces from his flowing sleeves. In the mountains John will own, drive, and care for his own team of horses, or mules. Their value as servants or laborers is largely in this, that they do as they are shown, and have no more opinion of their own, than the miner who replied to his superintendent, when asked " what is this ore worth a ton ? " "I don't know, to me it's worth four dollars a day." Power of Control over Their Feelinys, makes their faces as unreadable as marble. They are the least demonstrative of all the na- tionalities represented the very opposite of the Frenchman. They rarely laugh or cry, yet they become excited, have no fear of death, and their Chinese oaths roll from them at a rapid rate. 282 They often express their. feeling by oaths and curses, to which American profanity, it is to be hoped, will not attain by the next Centennial. They wish their enemies to be chopped into a thousand pieces, that his bowels may rot inch by inch, and in geneal, their frequent oaths are vile, low, and most vulgar, and they use them in the consciousness that the mistress " can't sabee." As servants many regard them as a great re- lief to the insolence and visiting so common to the class, and find them as reliable as any others. They are liked and hated in proportion as they are faithful and find kind mistresses. Many have tried them to their disgust, and others would have none but Chinamen. Their language gives them no little advantage in publishing their grievances. A kind and cul- tured lady was greatly attached to her China- man, who remained in her kitchen about two years, and then returned to China to visit his relations. His successor proved to be a surly and care- less fellow, and was soon discharged. No China- man would then stay for more than a few days or a week, and a " Jap " was engaged but with the same mysterious result. At length some characters in the written language were discover- ed in the dust on the back of the mirror in the dressing bureau, and after they were effaced the trouble ceased ! Chinese Business. Among the Chinese are pawnbrokers, money-changers and bankers, watch-makers and jewelers. The laundries are on every block, in some of which the work is excellent, and in others miser- able and destructive. Their process of sprinkling the clothes by tak- ing a mouthful of water and ejecting it in the form of spray is curious, but a method of sprink- ling that is not surpassed for evenness. Rag-pickers, and itinerant peddlers go about with two large baskets on the ends of a bamboo pole, and in this way burdens are Usually carried and often 300 pounds are carried on a ' dog-trot " from ten to twenty miles a day. These baskets, loaded with fish, carefully picked in the markets, and vegetables selected with like care, or raised in little suburban gar- dens of their own, or fish and vegetables of the worst, are carried if they suit the customers. Their baskets are at the doors of all the side- streets, and supply provender to those who cry most against cheap labor. Chinese Jewelry may be purchased for curi- osity only, but the purchaser may feel easier than in buying a Connecticut clock, for the articles carved in gold and silver are of pure metal the Chinese having not yet learned the intricacies of cheap jewelry. Firm names are not subject to change with death or change of partners, but are often per- petuated for centuries. Chinese Workmen. Their employments and occupations are, in short, legion. They are adapted best to light, quick work, and engaged much in cigar making, the use of the sewing machine, gardening, mining, picking fruit, etc., but have also proved the most efficient class for building railroads and levees, They are used almost exclusively for gathering castor-beans, strawberries and other fruits. As merchants, they prove successful, " cornering " the pea-crop and other markets, and they even charter vessels for the flour, tea and rice trade with China. Thus it is evident that the labpr question wears a serious aspect on its face, but it is like the ocean disturbed most on the surface, and will be settled with some respect to the de- mands of capital, as such questions have always been settled. One of the manufacturers engaged in the Mis- sion Woolen Mills, and two other factories says : " We employ about one thousand Chinese. We pay white men wages 200 per cent, higher than that paid to the Chinese. Some of the Chinamen are equal to white men, but most of them earn from 90 cents to $1.20 a day. All the money for Chinese laborers is paid to one man. We started manufacturing with white labor, and three or four years ago came to the con- clusion that we wanted to hire seventy-five white boys, and bought that many machines. The second day the boys went out on an excur- sion in the bay, and did not come back to work imtil the day after. We spoke to them about it, and said it must not happen again. There- upon one of the boys put on his jacket and said to the others, ' Let him go to h 1,' and most of them left the factory. We could not rely on white boys. Afterward I engaged nine girls. One day I went to the factory and found no steam up. I asked ' What's the matter ? ' The foreman said the girls did not come, they are off on a- holiday. They had too many holidays- Christmas, New Year's, Fourth of July, St. Patrick's Day, and many other holidays I never heard of. It went on from bad to worse, and when I found that the girls would rather loaf on the streets than work, I discharged them. I am not in favor of Chinese labor, mind you, but I have found out that white boys and girls of San Francisco cannot be depended upon. If we had no Chinamen, our factories would, in a measure, be hindered in their progress. If we had no manufactories of blankets here articles of that description would be bought in England. Shoes would be bought in Boston, if they were not manufactured here. Our foreman has instruc- tions to give white labor the preference. We have offered inducements to obtain Chinese labor. Would it be a good thing to send our raw material East, and have the articles manufac- tured there and sent back to us ? We sell goods 283 here as cheap as they are sold in the East, and better goods, although white labor in New Eng- land is cheaper than Chinese labor on this coast. The houses that export and sell eastern manu- factured goods would put up the prices of shoes, blankets, etc., if our factories did not keep them down by competition. If our factories were closed, prices would go up at once." And a private individual, " Chang Wo," makes a good point in public discussion, when he says, " What for the Americans have us in their houses if we are not clean and steal ? You can see." Among them are some hardened criminals, as their implements of murder to be seen in the office of the Chief of Police, or their pawn- broker's shops, will testify, and seventeen per cent, of the convicts at San Quentin are Chinese. On the one hand, it is difficult to convict them, because false witnesses are idle in the market places, but on the other hand, they need no con- viction in the judgment of many, and only a pre- text is sufficient to get them into prison. Guilty American criminals enjoy no fewer chances of escaping justice, but many more. Chinese Restaurants and Food. The restaurants are easily distinguished by their gaudy signs of red and gilt, covering the whole front of the building, and the immense round Chinese lanterns suspended from the upper stories. The higher the story, the more elaborate and costly is the rude furniture and the more aristocratic the entertainment ; or like the Palace Hotel, " the high floors are the high-toned." In these high places the merchants dine their friends on a dozen different courses. They have a greater variety of food than the French or any other nation. Some of this is best seen in the provision stores, and some in the restaurants. On Jackson Street, above Dupont, is one of the oldest and best restaurants ; others are on oppo- site sides of Dupont, near Clay. In meats, the Chinese use pork, kid, chickens, and the greatest variety of dried fish, dried oysters, gizzards, shrimps, and ducks. Beef is not a favorite meat, especially in the southern part of China. The legends concerning calamity upon those who eat so serviceable an animal are numerous. Ducks are hatched and reared by artificial proc- ess in China, and when dried in the sun and pressed in oil, are an important article of com- merce. Dried duck eggs, sometimes called " salt eggs," being first salted for three days, and then covered or coated with mud and salt, look as if they were coated with glue, and covered with black sand in stucco fashion. The Chinese call them Ham Tan, and sell them at 35 cents a dozen. Shrimps are not only dried, but are made into a sauce that looks like an apothecary's ointment. Many Chinamen in Mexico are engaged in catch- ing and salting shrimps. The variety of dried and salted fish is almost endless. Meat, fish and vegetables are cut up fine and cooked with rice flour and nut-oil in a variety of cakes, orna- mented in various styles and colors, then sold at street stands and eaten in restaurants, llice flour and nut-oil are used in almost all the articles of pastry. Rice is, of course, the staple article of food, and the taking of a meal is " eat- ing rice." The Chinaman's receptivity for this, like that of the ocean, is never satisfied. He will take a bowl containing it, in the left hand, and by a dexterous use of the chop-sticks will shovel it into his mouth, and swallow it as one fish swallows another, and he seldom fails to re- peat the process less than five or six times. Of teas, only the black is used in the best restau- rants, and this of a superior quality, costing often several dollars a pound. It is never boiled but placed in a small cup with a cover to fit, and boiling water poured in, and then is left to steep in the presence of the guest. Tea is the com- mon beverage, and offered on all occasions. On receiving a call from a stranger, it would be ex- ceedingly ill-mannered not to offer some hot tea the moment after he enters. It is always taken as hot as it can be procured, and without sugar or milk. For keeping it hot they sometimes have a covered basket well-lined with some non- conductor of heat, into which the tea-pot fits, and which will retain the heat for several hours. They seldom drink water, and wine is spar- ingly used. At their feasts and on social occa- sions, they are obliged to go through the whole bill of fare, taking a little of whatever is offered. The long, white, tapering Chinese radish, like our own winter radish, few will mistake, unless they are first cut up and boiled in oil. One of the most delicate vegetables they call the water-chestnut, a reddish brown bulb, about as large as an Italian chestnut, and resembling the Indian turnip. They are pared or shaved with but little waste and great rapidity. The Chinese turnip will not be readily recog- nized, except by its faint odor. It is oval, but quite irregular in shape. The bean is a great favorite, and of it there are many varieties, some exceedingly small. Bean sprouts are sold in all the vegetable stores, and bean curd is a staple article of food. One might mistake it for corn-starch or milk curd. It is prepared by grinding the bean and boiling the meal. The soft, yellow-covered cakes on the stands in the street, are only bean curd. Colt's-foot candy is not an article of food, but that which resembles it, is only the bean, cooked and drawn out into sticks, like candy ; and the long, thin, dried string-beans, one would say, are not beans at all, but yellow blossoms to be cooked in soup with lean pork. Besides aspara- gus, lettuce, celery and our common articles, mustard leaves, large and small, are much used for " greens." 284 Pumpkins and squashes, such as the " Melican man " eats, and does not eat, and sweet potatoes, dried and prepared as potato-rice ; and yams, with fibres somewhat resembling those adhering to the cocoa-nut shell, are always seen about the stores. Bamboo is cut into pieces about six inches in length, split and preserved in brine, and cooked with meat. Dried olives, black, and like a three-cornered piece of dried plum, are kept in earthen jars, and cooked with meat. The abalone, a shell-fish, is dried and exported to China. A sea-weed that resembles the pulp of peaches, dried like peach- leather, is a curious article of food, and may be as good as the bird's-nests. The greasy sausages are not attractive, though evidently much sought after. In the great variety of preserved fruits, some are food fit for Americans. The ginger root is well known, and not less pleasant are the lemon, sliced citron, small oranges, water-melons, olives, persimmons, and frozen sugar. Of nuts there are many, some for cooking, and some for eating. The white nut is like a small almond, with a thin shell and kernel, and is used for pastry. At the street corners are little packages of brown paper,with slices of cocoa-nut,mingled with the curious beetle nut, and the whole is daubed with some red paste, made out of lime juice and colored by the dust of the street and some foreign pinkish earth. One of the most palatable nuts is the " Lai Che," rougher than the cup of an acorn; the meat of which is black and sweet, and the seeds of which, though hard, contain a delicate kernel. The pea-nut is found on all the stands, but the American product is far superior to the Chinese. Water-melon seeds are eaten raw, and used in cooking. With all the variety of edibles from China, of which only a few of the most striking and common have been named, and with the new dishes adopted in this country, it may be hard for the Celestial to arrange his bill of fare, but they find rice economical, and they love it dearly ; yet when the palate of one was tested by asking him, " Of all things to eat, what would you rather have ? " He reflected for a time and replied deliberately, but with emphasis of tone, " Well, me likee best a nice piece of hog-meat." Temples. These are to be found in almost every town containing a few hundred Chinamen, but the most elaborate are in San Francisco. No effort is made to present an attractive ex- terior, although more money is expended by Chinamen in proportion to their means upon their temples than Americans spend upon their churches. The temples are not under the control of the six companies, or in any way connected with them, nor does the relations of any one to his company affect his place, or time of worship- ing. The chief temples are 1. On Clay Street, opposite the south-west corner of the Plaza, in the building in which the Hop Wo Company has its head-quarters, and for this reason sometimes distinguished as the Hop Wo Temple. 2. The Dupont Street Temple, with entrance from Dupont near Jackson, and also from Jack- son near Dupont, neither of which can be found or would be willingly entered when found by a stranger. It is reached by ascending rickety stairs to the third story. 3. The Pine Street Temple, entrance just above Kearney, in the building of the Kong Chow Asylum. 4. The Brooklyn Place Temple, off Sacramento Street near Stockton. 5. The Jackson Street Temple, on the north side of Jackson, near Stockton. The most popular among the Chinese is the one on Brooklyn Place, but it is small, retired, with only one god, and not attractive to tourists. The most desirable to visit are the first two mentioned. The Clay Street is the newest, most elaborate and expensive, but the Dupont Street contains about four times as many gods as any other. The temple on Jackson Street is devoted to the worship of Ma Chu, the goddess of sailors, and her two assistants, on either side of her. She has had various high-sounding titles bestowed upon her, the most common of which is " Tin Han" the Heavenly Queen, and to her the boatmen cry often, in piteous tones, " Grandmother Ma Chu ! " " Grandmother Ma Chu ! " This goddess was the daughter of a sea-faring man, whose sons followed the father's uncertain and stormy life. While weaving one day she fell asleep and her weary head rested on her loom, where she saw, in a dream, her father and two brothers and their respective junks, periled in a terrific storm. She agonized to rescue them from danger, and seized her brothers' junks, one in each hand, and her father's in her mouth. As she dragged them to the shore, she heard her mother's voice calling, and, with dutiful spirit, but great forgetfulness of her father's danger, she opened her mouth to answer, and awoke from her dream ; but in a few days tidings came of a dreadful storm and the loss of the father's junk and the safety of the brothers. Her dream has given her more honor than Pharaoh's gave Joseph, and the Virgin Mary has no loftier titles. Thank offerings are made to her by boatmen, after every deliverance from peril. One of her assistants is " Favorable-wind-ear," and the other, " Thousand-mile-eye." The temple on Pine Street is devoted to Kwan Tai, the god of war. It is in the building of the Kong Chow Asylum, and has connected with 286 it a room for ancestral worship. The asylum has a large hall for the public meetings of the company. The stranger in San Francisco will visit the temples on Clay Street and Dupont Street, if no others. The Clay Street has taken away some of the tinsel that formerly adorned the one on Du- pont Street, and is the most elaborate, having cost about $ 30,000, and is dedicated to the worship of Kwan Tai, and this same god occupies the central place in the Dupont Street Temple. He is the most popular of all the gods, and is always red-faced, with a long, black beard. On the walls of every temple and about the entrances are seen red placards the records of the gifts made for establishing and supporting it. The " Heathen Chinee," unlike the American Christians, who always give their alms in secret, connect merit and worship with these gifts, some- times burning incense before the names of the donors, while an attending priest offers prayers for blessings on them. In the Clay Street Temple is an elaborate piece of gilt, carved wood, representing mythology and history. It cost about $3,000, and is enclosed in glass, covered with wire. Other pieces of carv- ing, similar in character, are suspended about the room ; but the significance of them is as mysterious as the ponderous classics of Confu- cius and Mencius. Richly embroidered silk banners all hand- wrought, are ready to be carried in front of or over the idol when he goes out in procession on festal days. Spears are used at the same time for his protection, and flags carried to declare his authority. From the ceiling are suspended tablets with mottoes inscribed upon them, and some are placed vertically on the inner or outer walls, and the door-posts. Some of the temporary ones contain good mottoes ; others are thank-offerings. One of the latter, richly embroidered and fringed, (now in 'the Clay Street Temple,) is a thank-offering of Doctor Lai Po Tai, and has four Chinese char- acters, to wit : " Shing, Shan, Mo, Keung," i. ., " the gods whose holy age is perpetual." This doctor has amassed a fortune, by con- summate skill in the grossest quackery, and without performing any wonderful cures, has tried his hand on many rich and noble ones, and among them even a noted professional of an eastern city, who proved in his experience the truth of the familiar adage, " never too old to learn." The doctor lighted a match in his room, when it was filled with gas, and as a consequence had to secure himself the skill of American physi- cians; he barely escaped death, and then com- memorated his recovery by this thank-offering, placed originally in the Dupont Street, but subse- quently removed to the Clay Street Temple. i The neatest of the temples or Josh Houses is the Clay Street, but all ai'e dirty, dingy and doleful. A heaven of such character, would be desirable to no civilized people, and the temples impress one concerning the religious taste of the Chinese, as an ignorant and irreverent hater of the Jews seemed to be impressed, when he re- marked to a friend, " And you tell me that the Jews were the chosen people God's peculiar peo- ple? I think it showed a very poor taste on God's part." The ornamentation is of the cheapest, most miserable tinsel, gay and gaudy, smoked and begrimed with dirt, and the air laden with a nauseating odor of incense from grateful sandal- wood, mingled with the deadly fumes of the opium pipe, and the horrible smell of oil lamps and many-colored vegetable tallow candles. Spread out before the gods there is usually roast chicken and pig, sweetmeats or cakes, and always vessels or libations of tea, and a burning lamp. Every one will be likely to wonder how the gods dispose of all the food, and why the constant and large supply of tea does not weaken the nerves, but the gods consume only the imma- terial and essential parts of the offering, after which the meats, fruits, pyramids of cakes, the vermicelli of-rice flour and other articles are car- ried home to be eaten by the offerers. The gods are always enthroned in an alcove, out of which their hideously extorted and repul- sively daubed faces look with fiendish malignity or silly unmeaningness. The bell is a fixture of every temple, and also the drum, the former curious with dragon orna- mentations, and the latter with stout raw-hide and huge copper rivets. Their purpose is easily guessed, for sometimes these gods are " asleep," or " on a journey." There is also a box placed on a high stand, and carefully closed, containing the great seal, and which ought to be a better possession, than Alladin's lamp. An oven is also a common fixture to accommo- date in the burning of mock-money, or mock- clothing, or any representation, the reality of which the gods receive through the power of fire. There are no set times for worship, except feast and festival days, such as the birthdays of the gods. The calendar which determines these days is very abstruse, and no logarithms, differential, or integral calculus would make it intelligible. They have " big months " and " little months " of 30 or 29 days, and this year, 1876, has 13 months ; i. e., a sort of leap-year, with two, fifth months. On festival days huge paper images of the gods are made and carried in processions through the streets, and then allowed to remain in the temple for a season. The artificial flowers are generally renewed 287 once a year ; in fact, in no other nation, is there a more general change so many new leaves turned over, as in the Chinese New Year. Large urns and pewter and brass vessels of shapes and styles that the gods are supposed to appreciate, are used for burning sandal-wood sticks or incense. There is the greatest irreverence and confu- sion in their worship one never paying regard to the devotions of another. In one quarter of the room some may jabber while others are throwing the ka-pue, or shaking the bamboo splints, or consulting the spirits, or prostrating themselves to the earth. Peacock feathers, which are "flower," "green," " one-eyed," " two-eyed," or " three-eyed," and used as marks of honor, and designate ranks like epaulets in the army, and the sinuosities of the " dragon," " the greatest benefactor of man- kind," " the protecting deity of the empire" and the " national coat of arms," are used wherever possible. One dragon, called the true dragon, is Jive-claw- ed, and this one the emperor appropriates to him- self, and the whole of it is never visible in one picture if the head is visible the tail is out of sight. It has scales but no ears, yet has two horns, through which it is said to hear. Mode of Worshiping and Consulting the Gods. On entering the temple, the wor- shiper makes the " Kow-Tow," striking the floor with his head three times. In consulting the gods, the ka-pue, or divining sticks are used, and also bamboo slips. The ka-pue are pieces of wood six or eight inches long, and shaped like the half of a split bean. One is held in each hand, they are then placed together, and while bowing let fall to the ground. If both flat surfaces rest on the ground, "bad luck to ye;" both flat surfaces upward mean indifference, or equivalent to " cocked " dice ; and when one flat and one rounded surface rest on the ground, the favor of the god is assured. Sometimes the worshiper holds a bunch of small incense sticks in his hand, while he pros- trates himself, and whenever the first effort is not successful, " the best out of three," and even the " best out of three times three," or further trial will answer as well. The bamboo slips are contained in tin or bamboo canisters, about a foot high, and three inches in diameter. They are kept by the priest in charge of the temple, but whose services do not seem at all necessary for the ordinary worshiper. On each slip are numbers or char- acters corresponding to slips of paper, which contain directions or answers like boots and shoes, " ready-made and warranted to fit." After bowing thrice, the worshiper kneels, and shakes the slips till one falls to the floor. The approval of the god is sought on this lot, and the process must be repeated till a favorable answer is obtained. Sometimes the deity does not know the circumstances of the case, and must be informed thereof by burning paper that eon- tains the necessary information. Sometimes he must be propitiated by offerings of mock-money, white or yellow, (silver or gold) and sometimes by food. The priest receives a fee for the slip of paper in his charge, and he is sometimes employed to write letters, and sometimes his services as a medium must be had. For this latter, he stands at a table, on which is a slight covering of sand, and there repeats his incantations until he at- tains the clairvoyant or mediumistic state, and then he writes with a stick, under direction of the spirits, what is intelligible to no one else, but what he never fails to interpret. Kwan Tai is the deity of the Clay Street and the central figure in the Dupont Street Josh House. He is a great favoi-ite. " Chinaman he likee him heap muchee, and he likee Chinaman too." Small images of him are sometimes seen in stores and dwellings. He is the Mars of the Flowery Kingdom a "Military Sage," and is worshiped for success in contests of almost every character, and grows in favor from year to year. He was a distinguished officer who flourish- ed in the later Han dynasty, and was promi- nent in the wars which then agitated the three States. In the Dupont Street Temple, there are other deities, two of which will be easily recog- nized : Wah Tah, the god of medicine, who holds in his left hand the well-coated pill, and who is consulted for diseases of all sorts, and Tsoi Pak Shing Kioun, the god of wealth, who holds a bar of bullion. He is the patron deity of merchants, and all receivers of moneys, and, around his cabinet or throne, are pasted many mottoes or charms, such as " Protect us with Heaven's chief wealth." Other deities here are Nam Hai Hung Shing Tai, the god of fire, or " the Fiery Ruler of the Southern Regions ; " the local god of Canton, a " Great and Holy King." Yun Ten Tin is the god of the sombre Heavens, able to prevent conflagrations, and eating vegetables only. In the room on the east side of the main room, is the Goddess of Mercy held in great venera- tion by married women. She is especially worshiped on the first and fifteenth of every month. The god of the Southern Mountain, or local god of Canton, is much worshiped. In the many gods, there is a great variety, and some confusion ; but the Chinamen think they have great advantage over our religion. They have gods in the temple, and gods at home, and one of the heathen remarked to an American who reviled his polytheism : " Chinaman religion heap better Melican man's. 288 You go chu'rch Sunday little while : you come home, and allee week you lie and steal, and do heap muchee bad thing*. Chinaman, he got gods at home, see him allee time, Chinaman must be always good." In the rear of the temple, there is a room for the sale of incense, and other articles used in worship, the profit of which goes to the priest. The candles are all of vegetable tallow, made from seeds or kernels, which grow in clusters on the tallow-tree. Beef tallow would be offensive to the gods, for the ox and buffalo are animals of merit, and the odor of burning animal fat, would be repugnant to the nostrils of the deities. Gamblinff. In this they have an advantage over our own race, in a god of gambling, a dilapidated, seedy individual, with cue coiled around the head, and a gambling card in his hair, and also in worshiping the tiger, grasping in his mouth or paws a large cash. " His Ex- cellency, the Grasping Cash Tiger," is usually pictured on wood or paper, and is sometimes winged, like pictures of another, " His Excellency the Devil.' The Chinese are fond of gambling, and have invented many methods of playing for money. Their dens in the business quarter are many, always with a ivhile sign, and usually far back with a sentinel at the entrance from the street, to give the alarm of an approaching officer, or to turn away the "white foreign devils" who may have too great a thirst for knowledge. Some- times as many as three doors and sentinels must be passed. There is many an " Ah Sin " who can flatter, shame, threaten and lead on his victim. In China both gambling and lotteries are unlawful; but it is easy to bribe officials there, and here the Chinese practice these same old arts. Any and everything will be gambled away, from their money to their shoes they gamble with bamboo slips, all held as if for drawing lots, and giving the cash to the only one which, when drawn, has a string attached to it, with defective poetry, in which the missing word is to be guessed ; and with a revolving pointer, with cards, dice, and dominoes, but the most popular of all the games is that of " Fan Tan," usually contracted into " Tan," a game foreign to the Chinese, and the origin of which is more mysterious than that of chess, but which means " spread out money." As only Chinamen are admitted in San Fran- cisco to the sacred precincts of these resorts, the game can not be seen except by special favor. In some interior towns the Chinese are not unwil- ling to admit visitors. It is somewhat similar to the popular American game of faro, but so much simpler in all the appurtenances of the play, that when a lucky raid of the police is made through the quickly barred doors and winding passages, the only implements left are a table, a few chairs, an empty bowl and a pile of beans. The game is played on a table, around which the players sit. The sides of the table, or, of a . board, which lies upon a table are numbered, "one," "two," "three," and "four." Cash, a round Chinese coin, with a square hole in the center, worth one-tenth of a cent, were formerly used, but as the seizure of money is evidence of gambling, they now use beans instead of cash. A large pile of them is laid on the table and covered wholly, or in part, by an inverted bowl, and the betting commences on either " one," " two," " three," or " four." The money may be laid on the sides correspond- ing to the numbers, or as is now generally practised, papers having the amount of the re- spective bets, written on them, are placed on the table instead of the coin. The cover is then removed, and the beans are drawn away, four at a time, and the side of the table wins, according to the remainder, one, two, three, or nothing. Sometimes the bet is taken on the corners, dividing the chances of two sides. The keeper of the house receives a percentage of all the money paid, varying, it is said, from three to nine per cent. There are nearly two hundred of these gam- bling houses in the city, and they furnish a rich living to the policemen, who levy black-mail on them, varying, it is said, from five to twenty dol- lars a week. The Theatres. There are two on opposite sides of Jackson Street, just below Dupont. The most popular is the oldest, the " Chinese Royal," on the north side of the street. The entrance to this is through a long passage, about five feet wide, lined with the tables of fruit and cake venders. The auditorium has a parquette, that seats about 600 and a gallery for about 250; a smaller gallery for about 50 Chinese women, and two private boxes, void of all comfort from cushions, curtains or cleanliness, but elevated and roomy enough for six persons, near the stage and offering the only chances for securing reserved seats. The price of admission varies with time of entrance. Early in the evening, " barbarians " are charged four bits, but the Celestials find open doors to the front or best seats, for two bits. After ten o'clock, the Melican man can secure an entrance for two bits, and anyone going at this hour can see all he desires before the end is an- nounced. The best parts of the play are seldom reached before 11 o'clock, and the play kept up often until 2 or 3 o'clock. For a private box, $2.50 is charged. There are no stage-curtains, no flies, or shift- ing scenes, no decorations of any kind, simply a platform, at the rear of which the orchestra sits, and on either side of the musicians, is a door for 289 INTERIOR OF CHINESE THEATRE. ingress or exit. As the deception is perfectly apparent, when one falls in war or passion, and is not carried off the stage, nor hidden behind the drop, but rises and trots away, there is a decided feeling that the whole thing is " too thin " for long enjoyment. The acting is as rude as all the surroundings, yet it is often true to Chinese life. During the play of a comedy, the whole audience has been convulsed with laughter, over and over again, almost without cessation, suddenly break- ing out in loud exclamations ; but usually their faces are unmoved, except as they munch the pea-nuts, sugar-cane, etc., peddled throughout the room, or as they sink into dreamy contem- plation, under the satisfying influence of a pure Havana of their own make. The costumes are a marvel of gaudiness, but devoid of all elegance. The plays are nearly all of historic character, rebels plotting for pos- session of the government, sometimes seated on the throne ; messengers sent out to negotiate ; and encounters between the rival factions. Sometimes a love plot is enacted when the old man and old woman torture and rack the girl, 19 and the miser is apt to appear with his bag of gold to be stolen or wrested from him over his dead body. In nearly every play there are acrobatic feats of a truly creditable character. The actors whirl and double up and turn somersaults, till the modern gymnast is quite put to shame. There is no great variety of performers no " stars " on the stage, but some plays draw more than others; and what is most striking, there are no female performers. Men dressed as women talk in a sing-song tone, and falsetto voice. The deception in this respect is greater than any other, and foreigners would go away fully con- vinced, that they had listened to female perform- ers and heard attempts to sing, unless told to the contrary. The music is simply horrible. While the men in the audience and the orchestra sit with hats on, the orchestra may have their coats off, work- ing away like blacksmiths on the loud cymbals, triangles, guitar, fiddles, gongs and wind, instru- ments, keeping up an incessant din scarcely less than infernal. But the Chinese enjoy their theatre, and for 290 interesting plays, or at intervals of a few months, when a new play begins, the house will be crowded. In China, a company of actors is fre- quently hired to play at home. Funerals and Honoring the Dead. The funerals are conducted with great pomp. The corpse is sometimes placed on the side- walk, with a roast hog, and innumerable other dishes of cooked food near it, when hired mourn- ers with white sheets about them, and two or three priests as masters of ceremony, and an orchestra of their hideous music, keep up for hours such unearthly sounds as ought to frighten away all evil spirits. The wagon-load of food precedes the corpse to the grave, and from it is strewn " cash," on paper to open an easy passage to the " happy hunting grounds " of the other world. Ancestral Worship is the most common of all worship among the Chinese. Tablets may be seen in stores, dwellings and rooms con- nected with temples. Its origin is shrouded in mystery. One account derives it from an at- tendant to a prince about 350 B. C. The prince while traveling, was about to perish from hun- ger, when he cut a piece of flesh from his thigh, and had it cooked for his master, and perished soon after. When the prince found the corpse of the devoted servant, he was moved to tears, and erected a tablet to his memory, and made daily offerings of incense before it. Other absurd stories of filial devotion are told for the same purpose. The ancestral tablet of families, varies from two to three inches in width, and 12 to 18 in height, and some are cheap and others costly. There are usually three pieces of wood, one a pedestal and two uprights, but sometimes only two pieces are used. One of the upright pieces projects forward over the other from one to three inches. One tablet can honor only one individual, and is worshiped for from three to five generations. To the spirit of ancestors a sacrifice of meats, vegetables, fruits, etc., is often made with mag- nificence and pomp, and the annual worship of ancestral dead at their tombs, is of national ob- servance, and occurs usually in April, and always 106 days after the winter solstice. The offerings are more plentiful than the meats at a barbecue in the Far South, carcasses of swine, ducks, chickens, wagon-loads of all sorts of food and cups of tea, 'are deposited at the graves; fire-crackers continually exploded, and mock money and mock clothing freely consumed. All kneel and bow in turn at the grave, from the highest to the lowest. As in the case of the gods, the dead consume the immaterial and essential elements, and leave the coarse parts for the living. Unlike the' gods, the dead consume ducks. " Idol no likee duck, likee pork, chicken, fruits." New Year is the great season for social pleasure the universal holiday. All work ceases for the day, for a week or two weeks ; and the stores are never closed except at this season ; and the prosperity and standing of firms is meas- ured by the length of time the store is shut. In China, stores are sometimes closed for two or three months. Every one makes New Year's calls, and gives himself up to enjoyment, and before New Year all debts must be paid, and accounts ad- justed. The Method of Calculating and Count- ing is very rapid, and may be seen in any store. Counters are strung like beads on wires and framed, and astonishing results reached with these before " the barbarian " has written down his figures. For writing they use rice-paper, India ink and camel's-hair pencils. Opium Smoking is a common practice. Restaurants, the Clay Street and Dupont Street Temples, many stores and shops have the low tables or hard lounges on which the smokers re- cline. A block serves for a pillow. The opium, pipe, lamp and a five-inch steel needle are all that is necessary to bind the victim in fatal fascination. The poisonous drug is boiled into a thick jelly- like mass, and with the needle a small portion is scraped from the vessel containing it, rolled into a pill on the end of the needle, and placed in the flame until it swells like a soap-bubble, half an inch in diameter. The pipe has an inverted bowl with a flat, cir- cular top, two inches in diameter, in the center of which is a small opening, in which the heated paste is placed, and as the smoker reclines on his side he places the pipe to the flame and takes two or three short whiffs, removes the pipe, and lies back motionless, while the smoke is blown slowly through his pallid nostrils. He repeats the process till he falls back in a state of silly stupefaction, alike pitiable and disgusting. Once formed, the habit is never given up, and only three or five years will wreck the strongest constitution and noblest manhood. Exaggerated stories are told of visits to these dens by youth and women of American descent, for indulging in this vice, but they are rare and only by the lowest classes of the women. Why Americans do not Speah the Chinese Language. There is no alphabet, and the characters used are variously estimated at from 25,000 to 80,000. There is one written language, but twenty or more dialects, as the natives have twenty or more ways of pronouncing the numerals 1, 2 and 3, which are alike to the eye of the Frenchman and German. The dialects may also be written. And each of the numerous characters may have a widely different meaning by the slightest change of tone or inflection. 291 A teacher, with some knowledge of the lan- guage, was instructing the class in Bible truth and endeavoring to tell the interesting story of Samson slaying a lion with the jaw-bone of an ass, and perceived a strange look on the scholars' faces, and found that the slightest error of in- flection had made the story run " he killed the lion with the jaw-bone of a louse." To convert them to Christianity is a difficult work, for many reasons. Besides the barrier of a language that is almost impossible to acquire, many of the characters express inadequately the ideas of the Christian religion, and the Chinese often form erroneous opinions concerning it, from other sources. One was questioned, and replied as follows : Q. " Joke, do you know God? " A. " God ? No No sabee," (Shaking his head and wearing a vacant look.) Q. " God, Melican man's Josh you no sabcc GodT' A. "No, me no sabee God." Q. " You sabee Jesus Christ 1 " A. " Yes, me sabee him, Jesus Christ. Duffy call him cows." The Chinese Missions. An eminent Jesuit has said, as quoted in The Monitor : " These pagans, these vicious, these immoral creatures are incapable of rising to the virtue that is inculcated by the religion of Jesus Christ, the World's Redeemer and the Catholics make no attempt to instruct them in true devotion to the Virgin or the church. The oldest and largest mission is that of the Presbyterians, at the corner of Sacramento and Stockton Streets, where an evening school is held daily except Sunday, when religious services and Sunday School are held. Two Americans who speak the Cantonese dialect, Rev. Dr. Loomis and John G. Kerr, M. D., their wives, six other Ameri- cans and three Chinese assistants, are connected with this mission and its out stations in Sacra- mento and San Jose. Besides the school there is a home for Chinese women, to which the superin- tendent and a band of Christian women seek to gather the unfortunate and degraded for instruc- tions in sewing, embroidery, other useful occu- pations and moral reform. There is a church connected with the Presby- terian Mission of 63 members, and another with the Methodist Mission of 35 members and a Chinese Young Men's Christian Association of all the churches, numbering nearly two hundred members, and a thousand have renounced idola- try. Rev. Ira M. Condit and wife, connected with this mission for several years, have opened a new and promising mission at Los Angeles. The Methodist Mission is on Washington Street, above Stockton, and efficiently managed under the zealous superintendency of Rev. Otis Gibson, formerly a missionary at Fuchu. This has a branch at San Jose, schools and home for women, and several assistants like the mission before described. On the west side of ; ' The Plaza " opposite the City Hall, are the head-quarters of the Amer- ican Missionary Association, connected with which are several schools in Oakland, Santa Barbara, and other parts of the State. The Baptists have also a flourishing mission on Washington Street, near Dupont, and many of the churches have Sunday Schools for the Chinese, as Doctor Stone's, Mr. Hemphill's, Mr. Fiske's, Doctor Lathrop's, and others in San Francisco ; and Doctor McLean's and Doctor Eell's of Oakland. A specimen of their amusing attempts at English, is given herewith, as found at the en- trance to an alley or court on Sacramento Street, just below Stockton : TUCK MAKE LIVE JN THE LAHE The meaning is, Lee Tuck makes cages, and his workshop is at No. or room 16, in the alley or court, and it can be reached without climbing long flights of rickety stairs, and this being his dwelling also, he is at home at all times. Whether they are more successful in making poetry, the reader may determine, from the fol- lowing, which has been attributed to one of their scholars, but perhaps erroneously, viz : " How doth the little busy bee, Delight to bark and bite, And gather honey all the day, And eat it up at night." It is even doubtful whether it has been de- rived in any way from Confucius, or any of their classics. Instances are told of their honesty to an extent that is exceedingly rare among American Chris- tians, as of one who in purchasing a knife select- ed one at a dollar and a half, instead of one at half a dollar, and received a dollar too much in change, and discovered the error only after he reached his home. The next day he walked back three miles to return the money ! :3!!,i,{ H.'jifi-.. 293 HOW TO REACH IT. By Prof. F. V. Harden, U. 8. Geological Survey. THE Yellowstone Park is the grandest pleasure ground arid resort for wonderful scenery on the American Continent, and doubtless the time is not far distant, when Pacific tourists will make it one of their most interesting pleasure trips. The word park, naturally brings to the mind of the reader, visions of the park as he finds it in our eastern cities, or in foreign capitals ; with its beautiful drives, and its well kept walks, and neatly trimmed grass-plats. In imagination he sees the usual sign-board ; with rules and regula- tions, and the warning, "keep off the grass." He sees them in imagination alone ; for in the Yellowstone National Park, roads are few and far between. Animals untamed, sufficient to furnish innumerable zoological gardens, wander at will through the dense pine forests, or bask in the sunlight in beautiful grassy openings, whose surfaces are perfect flower gardens, re- splendent with hues that rival the rainbow. Elk, deer, antelope, and smaller game, are found in profusion; and all the streams and lakes abound in fish ; large and delicious trout ; making the park a paradise for the hunter and sportsman. To the artist, and lover of nature, are pre- sented combinations of beauty in grand pan- oramas and magnificent landscapes, that are seldom equaled elsewhere. Snow-capped mount- ains tower grandly above the valley, seeming to pierce the clouds ; while at their feet are streams, that now plunge into the depths of dark and profound canons, and anon emerge into lovely meadow-like valleys through which they wind in graceful curves; often expanding into noble lakes with pine fringed shores, or breaking into picturesque falls and rapids. To the student of science, few portions of the globe present more that is calculated to instruct or entertain. Strange phenomena are abundant. In the crevices of rocks, which are the result of volcanic action, are found almost all the known varieties of hot springs and geysers. Geysers like those of Iceland are here seen on a grander scale. The wonderful " Te Tarata " Spring of New Zealand, has its rival in the Mammoth Hot Springs of Gardiner's River; while the mud springs and mud geysers of Java have their rep- resentatives. Sulphur and steam vents, that are usually found in similar regions, are nu- merous. Captains Lewis and Clarke, in their explora- tion of the head waters of the Missouri, in 1805, seem to have heard nothing of the marvels at the sources of the Madison and Yellowstone. They placed Yellowstone Lake on their map, as a large body of water, having in all probability, derived their information from the Indians. In later years, however, there began to be rumors of burning plains, boiling springs, vol- canoes that ejected water and mud ; great lakes, and other wonders. The imagination was freely drawn upon, and most astounding tales were told, of petrified forests, peopled with petrified Indians ; and animals turned to stone. Streams were said to flow so rapidly over their rocky beds, that the water became heated. In 1859, Colonel Raynolds, of the United States Corps of Engineers, passed entirely around the Yellowstone Basin. He intended going to the head of the Yellowstone, and down the river, and across to the three forks of the Missouri, but was unable to carry out his plans. In 1869/a party under Cook and Folsom, visited Yellowstone Lake and the Geyser Basins of the Madison, but no report of their trip was pub- lished. The first trustworthy accounts given of the re- gion, were the result of an expedition led by General Washburn, the Surveyor-General of 294 Montana, and escorted by a small body of U. S. Cavalry, under Lieut. G. C. Doane, in 1870. They spent about a month in the interesting localities on the Yellowstone and Madison Riv- ers, and Mr. -N. P. Langford made the results of the exploration known to the world, in two ar- ticles published in the second volume of Scrib- ner's Magazine. Lieutenant Doane also made a report to the War Department, which was pub- lished by the government. (Ex. Doc., No. 51, 41st Congress). In 1871, a large and thoroughly organized party made a systematic survey, under the auspices of the Department of the Interior, conducted by Dr. Hayden, United States Geologist. He was accom- panied, also, by a small party, under Brevet Col. John W. Barlow, Chief Engineer of the Mili- tary Department of the Missouri, who was sent out by General Sheridan. Through the accurate and detailed reports of that exploration, the wonders of the Yellowstone became widely known, both at home and abroad. In February, 1872, the Congress of the United States passed an act reserving an area of about 3,400 square miles, in the north-western corner of Wyoming Territory, and intruding partially upon Montana, withdrawing it from settlement, occupancy, or sale, under the laws of the United States ; dedicating and setting it apart as a pub- lic Park, or pleasuring ground, for the benefit and enjoyment of the people. It extends from the 44th to the 45th parallel of latitude, and from the 110th meridian to a short distance beyond the lllth. Its general elevation is high ; averaging about 6,000 feet ; or nearly the height of Mount Washington, in the White Mountains. The Mountain Ranges have a general elevation from 9,000 to 10,000 feet above sea level, although many sharp and rug- ged peaks rise considerably above this. The country is so elevated that it could scarcely ever be available for agricultural purposes. The win- ter extends far into the spring, and it is no un- usual thing to find snow covering September's flowers. During July and August the weather is de- lightful ; the thermometer rarely, if ever, rising higher than 70 Fahrenheit. In the early morn- ing, however, it often records 26 ; and some- times falls as low as 10 or 12. The air is so dry and invigorating that the cold is not felt as much as higher temperatures are, in the moister eastern climate. Near the north-east corner of the Park, heads Clarke's Fork, of the Yellowstone. From the south-west, Snake River, or Lewis' Fork of the Columbia, starts toward the Pacific ; while on the western side, the Madison and Gallatin Rivers, two of the three- branches that unite to form the Missouri, have their origin. We can climb a low ridge and see the water flowing beneath our feet ; the streams on one side destined to mingle with the mighty Pacific, and, perhaps, to lave the shores of China and Japan ; while those on the other, flow down the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, to be lost eventually in I the great Atlantic. Who knows but that drops of water, starting here in opposite directions, may some day meet on an opposite quarter of the globe? The largest mass of water in the Park is the Yellowstone Lake, which lies near the south- eastern corner of the Park, from the upper part of which the Yellowstone River flows in a north- erly direction, and after a course of 1,300 miles, reaches the Missouri, having descended about 7,000 feet. Thus we have here the heads, or sources, of two of the largest rivers of the Conti- nent, rising in close proximity to each other. The divides, or water-sheds between them, are comparatively low, and sometimes it is difficult to say in which direction the water flows ; whether to the Pacific, or to the Atlantic. Routes to the National Park. There are several routes to the wonder-land of the Na- tional Park. The first, which is the most practi- cable, the pleasantest, and the one in common use. is the following, via Ogden : Ogden, Utah, is reached from the East via the Union Pacific Railroad, and connecting lines, and from the West by the Central Pacific Rail- road. From Ogden, take the Utah Northern Railroad to Franklin in Idaho Territory, whence there is a stage line to Virginia City and Bozeman. The tourist has the choice of starting from either of these places, at both of which a complete out- fit of supplies, animals and guides may be ob- tained. From Bozeman, the route is up the Yellow- stone River and across to the Geyser Basins, and thence by way of the Madison River to Virginia City. This is the route that will be followed in the description. There is a wagon road from Bozeman to the Mammoth Hot Springs, where there is said to be a hotel. From Virginia City there is the choice of two roads, one of which is to cross to the Madison and follow the trail up the river through the Second Canon to the Geyser Basins. The best, however, is to follow the wagon road which is completed to the Upper Geyser Basin. It leaves the south-eastern limit of Virginia City, and strikes the Madison near Wigwam Creek, where it crosses the river and follows it to a point just above the crossing of Lawrence Creek. Here it recrosses and closely follows the river to Drift- wood or Big Bend, three miles below the Second Canon. It then leaves the Madison Valley and crosses through Raynolds' Pass to Henry's Lake, the head water of Henry's Fork of Snake River. From Sawtelle's Ranche, on the lake, the road follows the east shore of the lake for three miles in a southerly direction, when it turns to the 295 north-east and passes through Tyghee or Targee Pass and down Beaver Dam Creek, over the South Fork of the Madison, and strikes the mouth of the Fire Hole Canon, 16 miles below the Lower Geyser Basin. It then follows the river closely, crossing twice before reaching the basin. From the basins, the route is either via Mud Volcanoes, Shoshone Lake, or Yellowstone Lake, to the Yellowstone and Bozeman. About a month ought to be allowed for the round trip. A second route, and one which shortens the stage ride, is to purchase an outfit at Salt Lake, or Ogden, and send it ahead to Market Lake, in Snake River Valley, joining it via the railroad to Franklin and stage line to Market Lake. This saves about 230 miles of staging. It is about 100 miles by a pack train trail from Market Lake to Henry's Lake from which point the Virginia City wagon road is followed to the " Geyser Basins." Another route from Market Lake, which is long and somewhat out of the way, but more in- teresting, as it gives an opportunity to visit Mount Hayden and passes some magnificent scenery, is to travel with a pack train up Pierre's River, across Teton Pass, and up the main Snake River to Shoshone Lake, whence the other points of interest in the Park are readily reached. This is one of the routes followed by the Hayden Geological Survey in 1872. Third. Camp Brown is a military post about 120 miles from Rawlins Springs Station on the Union Pacific Railroad, with which it is con- nected by a stage road. The trail from Camp Brown to Yellowstone Lake is said to be easy and the distance only about 140 miles. It crosses the mountains at the head of the Upper Yellow- stone River, which stream it follows to the lake. Captain Jones, in 1873, surveyed a route from Point of Rocks Station, on the Union Pacific Railroad, via Camp Brown, the Wind River Valley, and the head of Wind River to the Yel- lowstone. He claims that it saves 482 miles in reaching Yellowstone Lake. The great draw- back is that it is often unsafe on account of Indians, and very much obstructed by fallen timber. Fourth. There is the Missouri River route. The river is navigable as far as Fort Benton until late in the summer, and thence 140 miles of staging will take us to Helena, 118 miles from Bozeman. From Bismark, the present terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad, a trip of ten or fifteen days, will bring the traveler to Fort Benton. It will be a tedious journey, however, over the " bad lands " of Dakotah. Another plan is to disembark at the mouth of the Mussel Shell River, and having ordered horses to be in readiness, to take the wagon trail to the Crow Indian Agency at the Big Bend of the Yellowstone. This would give 150 miles of land travel through a prairie country abounding in antelope and buffalo, and sometimes Indians. The National Park may also be visited from the British Possessions, and also by a road which follows the Hell Gate and Bitter Root Rivers from the west, from Walla Walla. Otitfitting. A few words about outfitting may be useful. It is scarcely worth while to take wagons, as they can be taken over only a portion of the route, while a pack train may be taken any- where. The latter is therefore preferable, and for it a saddle animal apiece, and two pack mules for every three persons, will be sufficient, if too many delicacies are not carried. A better allowance is one pack mule for every member of the party. Two packers and a cook will be re- quired. One of the former ought to be well ac- quainted with the country, so as to act also in the capacity of guide. A hunter will also be a good addition to the party. Such men can easily be found at Bozeman and Virginia City. Thick woolen clothing, stout boots, and broad- brimmed hats should be worn. Tents, plenty of blankets, and hunting and fishing tackle should not be neglected. In the way of provis- ions, substantials are in order ; $25 per man, for a month's trip, will be a liberal allowance. Pack and saddle animals can be procured at Bozeman or Virginia City, for from $ 60 to $125 apiece. The following tables of distances, are com- piled principally from the reports of the United States Geological Survey : Ogden, Utah, to Franklin, Idaho, by rail, 80} miles. Franklin to Virginia City, Montana, (stage), 317 miles. Virginia City to Bozeman, (stage), 66 miles. Franklin to Market Lake. Snake River Valley, 152 miles. Point of Rocks Station, Union Pacific Railroad to Yellowstone Lake, by Captain Jones' route, 289 miles. BOZEMAN TO GEYSER BASINS, via YELLOWSTONE RIVER. Bozeman, miles. Fort Ellis, 3 miles. Divide between Spring and Trail Creeks, 16 miles. Boteler's Ranche on Yellowstone River, 39 miles. Foot of Second Canon of the Yellowstone, 52 miles. Devil's Slide at Cinnabar Mountain, 60 miles. Bridge near mouth of Gardiner's River, 68 miles. Cache Valley, the mouth of East Fork of Yel- lowstone, 84 miles. Crossing of Tower Creek, 88 miles. Divide on spur from Mount Washburn, 94 miles. Crossing of Cascade Creek, 108 miles. Mud Volcanoes, HT miles. Yellowstone Lake at head of River, 124 miles. Head of Yellowstone River, to Hot Springs on South-west arm of Lake, 15 miles. Hot Springs to Upper Geyser Basin, 15 miles. Mud Volcanoes to Lower Geyser Basin, 24 miles. Bridge near mouth of Gardiner's River, to Mammpth Hot Springs, 4 miles. MARKET LAKE TO YELLOWSTONE LAKE. Market Lake, Henry's Lake, Tyghee Pass, Gibbon's Fork, Lower Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, Divide, miles. 100 miles. 110 miles. 133 miles. 140 miles. 148 miles. 158 miles. 296 Shosbone Geyser Basin, Lewis Lake, Hot Springs, Yellowstone Lake, 162 miles. 172 miles. 180 miles. VIRGINIA CITY TO YELLOWSTONE LAKE, via WAGOK ROAD TO GEYSER BASINS. Virginia City, miles. Madison River, half mile from Wigwam Creek, 14 miles. Driftwood or Big Bend of Madison, 42 miles. Henry's Lake, 60 miles. Tyghee Pass, 63 miles. Gibbons' Fork, 86 miles. Lower Geyser Basin, 93 miles. Upper Geyser Basin, 101 miles. Yellowstone Lake, 116 miles. The Yellowstone Vattey. Starting from Bozeman, or Fort Ellis, three miles from the former place, and one of the most important military posts in the West, protecting, as it does, the rich agricultural Gallatin Valley from the incursions of the Indians, we follow up a small branch of the East Gallatin, through a pictur- esque canon, in which the road crosses and re- crosses the stream many times, in the seven miles of its length. From the head of this creek we cross a low saddle to Trail Creek, down which we proceed to the valley of the Yellowstone. Long before we reach it our eyes are greeted with the summits of one of the most symmetrical and remarkable ranges to be seen in the West; the Snowy Yel- lowstone Range, standing on the eastern side of the river. Sharp, jagged peaks and pyramidal masses stand out boldly against the sky, their snow-crowned heads glittering in the sunlight. As we come into the valley, the first view is grand and picturesque. The vista extends for thirty miles along the river ; on the opposite side the mountains rise magnificently. Emigrant Peak, 10,629 feet above sea level and nearly 6,000 feet above the valley, stands at the head of the range, and from its melting snows are fed numerous streams that water the hills and plains, sloping to the river. About 40 miles from Bozeman we reach Bo- teler's llanche. For a long time, the Boteler brothers were the pioneers of civilization in this region, and they have, with true liberality, en- tertained numerous parties on their way to the springs and lake. From Boteler's to the Second Canon, a distance of about 10 miles, the road keeps on the west side of the river, skirting the base of low vol- canic hills. The Second Canon stands at the head of the valley we have just described. It is a gorge less than a mile in length, cut in granitic rocks, which rise precipitously on either side for a thousand feet or more. The road here iz really hewn from the rock. The river, of a beautiful green color, rushes furiously through the narrow pass, broken into foam-capped waves by the rocks, which seem to dispute its right of way. One of the most agreeable features of the canon, and one rJso which is not confined to it, is the abundance of trout waiting to be drawn from its pools and eddies. Above the canon the valley widens, and we pass over a sage brush covered bottom for about ten miles, to the next point of interest, the "Devil's Slide," at Cinnabar Mountain. This curious freak of nature is somewhat like the Slide in Weber Canon, on the Union Pacific Railroad, but is on a much larger scale. Two parallel walls of rock, each 50 feet wide and 300 feet high, extend from the summit of the mount- ain to its base. They are separated about 150 feet ; the rock between, and on both sides, hav- ing been removed by erosion. Their sides are as even as if worked with line and plumb. On either side of the main slide are smaller ones, and in one, is a bright red band, 20 feet wide, extending from the top to the bottom, about 1,500 feet. From this red band of clay, which was mistaken for cinnabar, was given the name Cinnabar Mountain. The earlier explorers of these regions, the mountaineers and trappers, were evidently impressed with the novelty of the phenomena, and seem to have dedicated many of the localities with satanic names, which from their fitness, are not likely to be superseded. Thus we have " Devil's Slide ; " " Hell Roaring River;" "Fire-Hole Prairie ;"" Devil's Glen," etc. Above Cinnabar Mountain the valley is more broken ; and we cross several ridges, strewn with boulders of dark volcanic rocks, obsidian chips, and beautiful specimens of chalcedony and semi-opal. Six miles above the slide, we come to the foot of the Third Canon, where the Yellowstone is joined by Gardiner's River, or Warm Spring Creek, as it was originally called. Here we leave the river to visit one of the crowning won- ders of the region. The Mammoth White Mountain Hot Springs. This group of springs, is one of the most remarkable within the limits of the Na- tional Park, and as far as is known, has not its equal in grandeur in the world. The Te Tarata Spring of New Zealand, is the nearest approach to it in appearance, but the formation is of a different character; the Gardiner's River Springs depositing calcareous material, while that in New Zealand is siliceous, like the deposits in the geyser region of Iceland, and in our own geyser basins, at the head of the Madison. The exploring party of 1870, did not discover these springs, and the Hayden Exploring Expedition . of 1871, was the first organized party that ever visited them. Leaving the Yellowstone, we keep some 300 or 400 feet above the level of the river for a couple of miles, passing several small lakes, when we descend to the bank of Gardiner's River, on the eastern side of which is a high bluff of cretaceous sandstones capped with a 297 MTS. HAYDEN AND MOKAN. layer of volcanic rock. On the edge of the stream, we pass over a hard, calcareous crust, in which we find several wann springs. At one point we pass a considerable stream of hot water, revealed by the clouds of steam rising from it, flowing from beneath the crust into the river. Turning to the right, we ascend the hill, made of the same calcareous deposit, which gives forth a hollow sound beneath the tread of our horses. This jiill must have been the scene of active springs ages ago. Xow, however, the deposit has crumbled, and is overgrown with pines. The springs once were much more numerous and far more active than at present. Ascending the hill, and turning to the left, we come suddenly upon the marvelous scene. Be- 298 fore us stands one of the finest of nature's archi- tectural efforts, in a mass of snowy white de- posits, 200 feet high. It has the appearance of some grand cascade that has been suddenly ar- rested in its descent, and frozen. The springs are arranged on a series of terraces, that rise one above the other like steps. There are fourteen of these terraces with active springs, and others in which they are extinct. The deposits extend from the level of Gar- diner's River, to the head of a gorge 1,000 feet higher, a distance of over 5,000 feet. The area occupied by it, including the extinct basins, is about three square miles. The lowest terrace is flat, and its basins are very shallow and destitute of water. From their midst rises the " Liberty Cap," a conical mass about 50 feet high, composed of calcareous sediment. The principal springs are contained in the mass extending from the second to the twelfth terraces, inclusive. Here the basins are most perfect, surrounded with beautiful scal- loped edges. The water falls from the upper basins to the lower, becoming cooler as it de- scends, so that water of almost any temperature may be found in which to bathe. At the head of the gulch are several mounds, in which there are miniature geysers. The springs are changing from year to year ; dying out in some places, and breaking out in others. Toward the head of Gardiner's River are several beautiful cascades, and the scenery in the vicinity of the springs is varied and beauti- ful. We must wend our way up the river in search of new wonders. We can follow either of two trails ; one up the Yellowstone River, and the other up Gardiner's River. Both trails eventually unite, and lead us to the mouth of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, about 20 miles from Gardiner's River. A trip up the East Fork will repay the tourist. The scenery is grand beyond description. At the extreme sources is a chaotic mass of peaks, from the water-shed between the East Fork, and Clarke's Fork. We pass by the cone of an extinct geyser, and Amethyst Mountain, on whose sum- mit may be found beautiful amethyst crystals imbedded in volcanic rocks. Tower Creek and Falls. Tower Creek is about three miles above the bridge that crosses the Yellowstone, near the mouth of the East Fork. The trail keeps on the west side of the river, and reaches the creek a short distance above the fall, which is one of the most pictur- esque in the Park. Tower Creek is a swift mountain torrent, which, breaking into rapids, suddenly dashes over a ledge of rock and falls in one clean sweep 156 feet, to a rounded basin, cut from the solid rock, and then hurries on through a short canon, to join the Yellowstone. The rocks about the fall have been so eroded as to leave tower-like masses, from 50 to 100 feet high. Two of them stand on either side, at the edge of the fall, like huge giants. Let us ascend one. Hold on tightly, and look down. The edge of the fall is full 100 feet below, and the foot 156 feet farther. There are a few unim- portant sulphur springs on the river, and oppo- site the falls are Column Rocks, exposed in a bluff 346 feet high. There are three rows of basaltic columns from 15 to 30 feet high ; the beds between are infiltrated with sulphur, giving them a bright yellow color. A short distance above the mouth of Tower Creek, is the lower end of the " Grand Canon " of the Yellowstone, and the trail now leaves the river to pass around the western base of Mount Washburn. This is one of the highest peaks in the neighborhood, rising 10,388 feet above sea level. An hour's ride will take the traveler to its summit, from which a view of the country in every direction is com- manded, which well repays one the tedious climb. At the foot of the mountain, on the south-east- ern side, is a group of mud and sulphur springs which have been called the " Hell Broth Springs." To reach them, the best way is to camp a little more than a mile from the top of the range, on a small stream which is followed for about a mile. A plain trail leads from the springs to the falls of the Yellowstone, which will be our next stopping place. The best camping places are on Cascade Creek, about 18 miles from Tower Creek. This small stream is parallel to the Yel- lowstone for the greater part of its course, al- though flowing in the opposite direction, a little over a mile from the river. It soon turns at right angles and joins the river about midway between the Upper and Lower Falls. Just be- fore it reaches the main stream it passes through a deep and gloomy gorge, where it breaks into a cascade of exceeding beauty called " Crystal Falls." Its height is 129 feet. The water first falls but five feet, and then down it goes fifteen feet, falling into a beautiful rounded basin in which the clear water is perfectly placid. From this basin the final leap over the rocky ledges is taken. Flls of the Yellowstone and Grand Canon. No language can do justice to the wonderful grandeur and beauty of the Grand Canon. In some respects it is the greatest won- der of all. It is a gorge carved by the river in volcanic rocks, to a depth increasing from nearly a thou- sand feet to over two thousand. Its length is about thirty miles. The walls are inclined from 45 a to 80, and in many places become vertical. They are eroded into towers, spires, and min- arets. The striking feature of the remarkable view is the brilliancy of the colors. The pure whites of the decomposing feldspar are mingled with sulphur yellows, and streaked with bands of bright red, colored with iron. Dense pine forests extend to the edge of the canon. At the bottom 299 of the chasm is the river, boiling and surging as it goes. The descent to the edge is best accom- plished on the eastern side. Reaching the bot- tom, we hear nothing save the distant thunder of the fall and the roaring of the water as the furi- ously agitated waves dash against the solid rock at our feet, seeming to pro- test against their impris- onment. At the top, the tall pines form a green margin to the rocky walls. On the right side near the verge of the wall, is a collection of springs, mostly mud springs, in which the mud is of vary- ing consistency. At the head of the canon, are the Lower or Great Falls of the Yellow- stone. Long before we reach the brink, we hear the suppressed roar, resembling distant thun- der. The best views are obtained from a point on the canon wall, a quarter of a mile far- ther down, and from the brink of the precipice over which the river plunges. Let us approach and look over. Down, down goes the whirl- ing mass, writhing and battling with the rocks, against which it dashes with a noise like the dis- charge of heavy artillery. Here and there, a resisting rock is met, and the water rebounds, broken into myriads of drops, which throw back to us the sunlight resolved into its primi- tive colors. The bottom reached, the column breaks into an immense cloud of spray, whose moisture nourishes the vegetation on the walls near the fall. The river, before it pours over the edge, narrows to about a hundred feet. The height of the fall has been variously given. The measurement with a line in 1870, gave 350 feet as" the result. Triangulation from a base line on the edge of the canon, by the Geological Survey in 1872, made it 397 feet, and a barometrical measurement in 1873, by Captain Jones, made it 328.7 feet. The Upper Falls are about a quarter of a mile ASCENDING THE GLACIKKS <> 300 LOWER FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. above the Lower Falls. Between them, the river is in a canon whose depth is from 100 to 300 feet. Near the Lower Falls it is a succes- sion of rapids. The two falls are very unlike, but equally interesting, the Upper perhaps not possessing as much of grandeur as the Lower. The height of the former is 140 feet. The river above is broken into rapids, and, reaching the edge, the entire volume of water seems to be hurled off the precipice with terrific force, so that the mass is broken into most beautiful snow-white drops, presenting, at a distance, the appearance of snowy foam. Midway in its descent a ledge of rock is met with, which car- 301 ries it away from the vertical base of the preci- pice. The water has worn a circular basin in the hard rock. From any point, the view is striking and picturesque. What it lacks in sub- limity is compensated for by its beauty. Crater Hills and Mud Volcanoes. Leaving the falls, the trail leads us up the river, and soon brings us out into a level prairie country, through which the Yellowstone flows peacefully between low, verdant banks, and over pebbly bottoms, or treacherous quicksands, giving no intimation of its struggles below. We seem to have left everything terrific and diabolic behind us. Stopping to drink at a beautiful looking creek, we find it impregnated with alum. This is Alum Creek, which has its source in the springs about Crater Hills, six miles above the falls. The best camping place will be found three miles farther on, at Mud Volcanoes, from which point the springs in this part of the valley can be visited. They are found on both sides of the river. At the head of some of the branches of Warm Spring Creek, are sulphur and mud springs, and on the eastern side of the river, numerous mud springs are found. Crossing Alum Creek, we soon find ourselves at Crater Hills, two high conical white hills, about 200 feet high, around the base of which are hot springs and steam jets. One of the latter is called the " Locomotive Jet " from the noise made by the escaping steam. The princi- pal spring is the "Boiling Sulphur Spring." It is about 12 feet in diameter, and encircled by a beautifully encrusted collar-like rim. The water is constantly agitated, rising from three to four feet above the basin like some huge caldron. Crossing through a narrow belt of timber, a short distance east of this spring, we come upon a group of active mud and sulphur springs, all tasting strongly of alum. The noise made by the boiling mud, the scream of the steam jets, the plop-plop of the smaller mud-pots, the puffing and throbbing of the larger ones, and the sul- phurous odors that fill the air, combined with the treacherous nature of the ground beneath us, give rise to feelings that are difficult to analyze. At Mud Volcanoes, we find new wonders in the "Devil's Caldron," "The Grotto," "The Mud Geyser," and a host of smaller springs. The presence of the "Caldron," is made known by the immense column of steam, which is continually rising from it. It is on the side of a low hill. The steam generally obscures the view of the seething mass of blackish mud, which is 20 feet below the surface. The trees all about the crater, are coated with mud which it is supposed has been ejected during an erup- tion of this mud geyser. It does not boil with an impulse like most of the mud springs, but with a constant roar that shakes the ground and may be heard at a considerable distance. About 200 yards from the " Caldron " at the head of the rivulet, which drains the group of springs, is the " Grotto." It is a sort of cave in the rock. The orifice is about 15 feet high, and slopes gradually inward for about 20 feet. From this cavern at regular intervals of a few seconds, there bursts forth a mass of steam, with a pulsation that causes the earth to throb, while a small stream, clear as crystal, but absurdly disproportionate to the amount of noise, flows from the mouth of the cavern. The steam is so hot, that only when the breeze wafts it aside, can we look into the opening. The " Muddy Geyser " has a funnel-shaped basin, 60 feet in diameter, which is in the midst of a basin measuring 200 feet by 150 feet with sloping sides of clay and sand. The flow takes place at intervals of from four to six hours, last- ing from twelve to sixteen minutes each. The water, mingled with mud, rises gradually until the basin is filled to the level of the brim, when a slight bubbling commences near the center. Suddenly it is thrown into violent confusion, and an irregular mass of lead colored mud and water is thrown into the air with irregular pul- sations. The height attained is 15 to 40 feet. At the end of the eruption the water sinks into the funnel-shaped orifice, to go through the same operation in a few hours. From Mud Volcanoes we can go either to the Geyser Basins of Fire Hole River, or to Yellow- stone Lake. To the former, the distance is about 19 miles and to the latter, only a little over seven miles. A trail is found on both sides of the river and late in the season the river is easily forded. The trail on the eastern side will lead us to Pelican Creek, Steamboat Point, and Brim- stone Basin on the eastern side of the lake, from which we can go around the southern bays to the Hot Springs, on the south-west arm of the lake, to which the trail on the western side of the river will also lead us. There are several in- teresting Mud Springs, opposite Mud Volcanoes, on the east side of the Yellowstone. Yellowstone Lake. This beautiful sheet of water is more than twenty miles in length and fifteen in width. Its form has not inaptly been compared to that of an outspread hand the northern or main body representing the palm, while the south-western bay represents the thumb considerably swollen, the other bays cor- responding to the fingers, two being small, and the others disproportionately large. The elevation of the lake, from measurements made by the United States Geological Survey, is 7,427/feet above sea level. Its depth is from one and a half to fifty fathoms. Its shore line measures over three hundred miles, presenting some of the loveliest shore lines, especially at Mary's Bay on the east side, south of Steamboat Point. Here, also, is Diamond Beach,' a broad and level sand beach extending for five miles. 302 The sand is composed of particles of obsidian (volcanic glass) quartz, and chalcedonies that sparkle in the sunlight. The western side of the lake is covered with pine forests, as is the southern end, where also there are many lakelets, and considerable marshy ground. There are no high mountains in this direction, low, broad hills forming the water-shed between the lake and the sources of Snake River. One can cross almost anywhere to the Shoshone Geyser Basin. The eastern side of the lake is also well wooded, but more broken by small open prairies. The country on this side soon rises into a grand mountain range from which numerous volcanic peaks rise. Prominent among them are Mts. Stevenson and Doane. The interesting localities of the lake on the eastern side are " Brimstone Basin," " Steam Point " and " Steamboat Springs, " " Turbid Lake " and the Springs of Pelican Creek and Sulphur Hills. On the south-western arm also, characteristic, notwithstanding the name. The period of greatest activity of all the springs here is past, and they are gradually dying out. The spi'ings on the shore of the south-western arm of the lake, occupy an area of about three miles in length, and half a mile in width. There are no geysers. Some of the springs are found in conical, siliceous mounds, rising from the water of the lake near the shore. One of these is named the " Fish Pot," from the fact that while standing on its crater, one may extend his fishing-rod, catch trout, and turning, may cook them in the spring. About four hundred yards from the shore is a basin of boiling, pink-colored mud with conical mud craters, from which the mud is ejected. There are also a number of cleai-, flowing springs of hot water, and numerous springs of boiling, muddy water varying in color from white to dark yellow. The next point of interest after Yellowstone Lake is the Geyser Region of Fire Hole River, or YELLOWSTONE LAKE. is an interesting group of springs. " Brimstone Basin " is south-east of Steam Point, and marks the seat of once active springs, evidenced by the deposits. The stream flowing through them is strongly impregnated with alum. At Steam Point, besides the springs, are several steam jets. From one the steam escapes with a noise resem- bling that made by the escape of steam from a large steamboat. Others resemble the escape of steam from the cylinders of a locomotive. Springs are found on the shore of the lake be- tween Steam Point and Pelican Creek and along the course of the latter stream. At Turbid Lake, two miles east of the lake and back of Steam Point, the springs are mud springs and sulphur vents. The water of the lake itself is made turbid by the springs in its midst and on the shores. Sulphur Hills are between Pelican Creek and the Yellowstone. Sulphur is not the Upper Madison. From the group of springs, a trail, striking nearly due west, will bring us to the head of the " Upper Geyser Basin," a dis- tance of about fifteen miles. We may also keep more to the south and visit the geysers of Sho- shone Lake, on the way, or we may return to Mud Volcanoes and cross to the East Fork of Fire Hole River, and visit the "Lower Geyser Basin " first, which is, perhaps, the- best course, as the springs of the Lower Basin will seem less interesting after the greater wonders of the Upper Basin have been seen. Geyser Basins of Fire ITofe River. The geyser basins of the Upper Madison in- clude, altogether, about seventy-five square miles. In this area are thousands of springs and gey- sers, ranging in temperature from the boiling point to cold. Their description would occupy the space of a volume. Only the salient features 303 can be given here. The springs are divisible into three classes : 1st. True geysers which are agitated at stated intervals, and from which the water is projected. 2d. Those which are con- stantly agitated or always boiling. They rarely have eruptions ; most of the mud springs can also be included under this division. 3d. Those which are always tranquil. In the latter, the water is generally of a lower temperature, and has a beautiful blue color, or often a green tint like that of the beryl. In springs of the very lowest temperatures there is often a low form of gelatinous vegetable growth. Some of the springs of the Lower Basin merit the title of small lakes. They are divided on the maps into eight groups. The first is on the East Fork; the second is about a mile farther to the south, and the third, fourth, and fifth groups still farther south on the east side of the basin. In the third group are the Fountain Geyser, and the Mud Puffs, both worthy a visit. In the fifth group is the Architectural Geyser, probably the most powerful in the " Lower Basin." The sixth gi'oup is on the main river above the mouth of Fairy Fall Creek, the seventh is on the latter stream, and the eighth on Sentinel Creek, a stream joining the Fire Hole below Fairy Fall Creek. There are but about half a dozen real geysers in the Lower Basin, but craters are seen which must once have been active spouters. The deposits are siliceous, as is the case with the Up- per Basin. There are many places where the springs are extinct, nothing remaining save the glaring white sediment. The scalloped rims ex- tending out over the water, like cakes of ice, and the corrugated sides of the basins are exceedingly beautiful. Before leaving the Lower Basin, we must visit Fairy Falls, a very pretty miniature cascade at the head of Fairy Fall Creek. From the mouth of the latter creek, to the mouth of Iron Spring Creek, which marks the lower bound- ary of the Upper Basin, the distance is five miles in an air line. About midway are the Half- way Springs. The principal one is a huge cal- dron, 250 feet in diameter, with walls about 20 feet high. It is in constant agitation, giving off clouds of steam. On one side, the wall is broken down, and thence the surplus water flows into the river, through numerous channels whose beds are lined with scarlet, yellow, and green, which contrast boldly with the white siliceous sinter surrounding the spring. Farther back from the river, on a slight eminence, is an almost circular spring, 150 feet in diameter. The journey from one basin to the other is suggestive of the infernal regions. The trail keeps near the river, which is warm, fed as it is by so many hot streams. The ground sounds hollow under foot. We wind in and out among holes from which steam and sulphurous odors escape, past great yawning caverns and cisterns of bubbling, seething water and mud. The air is full of strange noises, and we feel as though we were on dangerous ground, through which we may break at any moment and descend to flames beneath. Again we pass pools of trans- lucent water, in whose azure depths we can not see the bottom of the siliceous basins. We also cross boiling streams which flow over hard beds colored green, yellow, and red, from the deposition of mineral ingredients by the evaporation of the water. Upper Geyser Basin. The Upper Geyser Basin has been called the Great Basin, because it contains the principal geysers. It is about two miles long, and will probably average half a mile in width. The best view is obtained from the crater of " Old Faithful," at the upper end. Through the Lower Basin the course of the river is almost due north, while in the upper, it flows west of north. Its banks are made of geyserite, the siliceous deposit of the springs, which is literally honeycombed with springs, pools and geysers, that are constantly gurgling, spit- ting, steaming, roaring, and exploding. To de- scribe all the geysers would require more space than can be spared, and I will therefore refer only to the principal ones, hoping the reader will take the trip and see the wonders of the Yellow- stone for himself, which is really the only way in which they can be appreciated, for any de- scription must always fall short of the reality. Entering the Upper Basin from the north, we pass a series of rapids at the upper end of which we enter the gateway, as it were, guarded by two sentinel geysers, one on either side of the river ; that on the left being the most active. Following the river for about two hundred and fifty yards, we reach the " Fan Geyser," where there are several orifices from which the water radiates, the streams crossing each other and producing a fan-shaped eruption. A short dis- tance above, on the opposite side of the river, is the " Grotto Geyser " which is easily recognized by the peculiar form of its crater, from which it takes its name. There are two orifices, the principal one being in the larger and more irreg- ular mound, which is eight feet high, while the smaller one is only four feet high. The inter- val between its eruptions is unknown. It throws a column of water and steam from 40 to 60 feet above its crater. Several hundred yards farther back from the river, south-west from the " Grotto," are the " Pyramid," " Punch Bowl," " Bath Tub," and " Black Sand " Geysers. The " Giant " is about 400 feet south-east of the "Grotto." It has a rough, cone-like crater, ten feet high, with one side broken down. The orifice from which the water is expelled is about five feet in diameter. This curious crater is near the river's edge, on a platform of deposit measur- ing 342 yards in circumference. It has seldom been seen in eruption. Langford gives the SCENES IN THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. 1. Jupiter's Baths and Soda Mountain. 2. Valley of the Yellowstone. 305 height as 140 feet in 1870. It was also seen in action in 1874, but the height was not measured. Following up the river on the south-west side, we next stop at the " Castle." It is a cone, ris- ing a little over 11 feet above an irregular plat- form of sinter, that measures 75 by 100 feet, and is three feet high. The orifice of the geyser tube is three feet in diameter, and circular, and its throat is lined with large orange-colored globular masses. In 1870, its eruption threw a column of water 140 feet above its crater, con- tinuing three hours. In 1872, the maximum height observed was 93 feet and the duration fifteen minutes, after which steam escaped with a pulsating movement, the whole display lasting about an hour and twenty minutes. In 1874, the same succession of water and steam was noticed, the former lasting twenty minutes, and attaining an estimated height of 250 feet, and the latter lasting about forty minutes longer. The noise of the eruption is indescribable. Im- agine a gigantic pot with a thunder-storm in its stomach, and to the noises of elemental war, add the shrieking of steam pipes and you will have a faint idea of it. After the eruption, the ex- hausted geyser sinks into complete repose. Near the " Castle " is a beautiful blue hot spring, which has been given the fanciful name of " Circes Voudoir." The water is perfectly trans- parent, and so intensely blue that you involun- tarily plunge your hand in to see if it is water. The basin is of pure white silica, looking like marble. It is about 20 feet in diameter, and has a beautiful and regular scalloped margin. The white basin slopes to a funnel-shaped opening which is 40 feet deep, and here the water is in- tensely blue, its temperature 180 Fahrenheit. " Old Faithful," standing at the head of the valley, is so named from the regularity of its spouting. Its mouth is six feet by two, in a siliceous mound that rises 11 feet above the gen- eral level. On this mound are small basins whose edges are ornamented with bead-like silica. The eruptions commence with a few abortive attempts, followed by a rapid succession of jets which soon reach the maximum, and then sub- side, only steam escaping from the orifice. The average interval between the eruptions observed in 1872, was one hour, two and three-quarter minutes, and the average duration four minutes, fifty-three seconds. As observed by Captain Jones' party in 1873, the interval was fifty- six minutes and forty seconds, and the dura- tion four minutes and thirty-three and one-half seconds. The height of the column was esti- mated at nearly 150 feet. The greatest height measured in 1872, out of seventeen eruptions, was 130 feet. The " Bee Hive " is on the op- posite side of the river, nearly due north of " Old Faithful," and about 300 yards distant. It is near the river and readily recognized by its cone three feet high, and about three feet in 20 diameter. From this cone the water is pro- jected with great force in a steady stream. The column is fan shaped. No water falls back, but it seems to be all resolved into vapor. The length of the eruptions is from four to fifteen minutes, and the interval unknown. The col- umn rises from 100 to 250 feet. Two hundred yards back of the Bee Hive, is the " Giantess," which has a large basin 23 by 32 feet. It is on the summit of a gently sloping siliceous mound. Its eruptions are very irregu- lar. They last from 8 to 18 minutes. The only eruption measured in 1872, was 69 feet. An immense mass of water was thrown up. Other estimates have given the height as 60, 200, and 250 feet. Farther down the river and opposite the castle, from which it is distant 460 yards, is the " Grand Geyser." One would scarcely take it for an important geyser, unless he witnessed one of its spoutings ; for, unlike the others, it has no raised crater. Its basin which is 52 feet in diameter, is depressed a foot below the general level. The mouth of the geyser tube in the cen- ter, measures four feet by two feet, and from this, about once in 24 hours, a column is thrown to the height of from 175 feet to 250 feet. The eruption generally consists of three periods, after each of which the water sinks completely out of sight. Near the " Grand " are the " Saw Mill " and the " Turban." The latter is only a few feet from the " Grand," and will be known by the globular masses that look like huge squashes, and are easily seen lining the sides and bottom of the crater when the water has di:r>peared from the basin. The eruptions are unimportant. Still farther down the river, and nearly opposite the "Grotto," is the "Riverside" which brings us back nearly to the place we started. A visit to Iron Spring Creek, is well worth taking. Near its mouth, on the north side, is the " Soda Geysers " group. Fair camps are easily found in the " Lower | Geyser Basin." In the " Upper Basin," a good camp for a small party is in a grove near the " Castle." An- other is found about a quarter of a mile higher up. The trail to the " Shoshone Geyser Basin " leads up the Fire Hole River, and a short distance above the " Upper Basin," we pass a fall 60 feet high, that is worthy a visit from all who would see the beauties as well as the wonders of the region. It somewhat resembles the Middle Fall at Trenton, New York. Above the falls, the trail cro/sses the river to avoid swampy ground, and keeps on the bounding ridge of hills on the west. The narrow valley expands, and we soon enter a third geyser basin with several groups of springs, and one geyser called the " Solitary." It has a dome-shaped mound, 15 feet in diam- eter and 11 to 14 feet high, covered with elegant 306 pearly bead-work, and striped vertically with bands of white, dark green, brownish black, and vari- ous shades of orange and yellow, the white being ordinary geyserite, while the other colors are purely vegetable. In the top of the mound are several openings, the larger about three inches in diameter, from which a stream of water is thrown 20 to 50 feet and even to 70 feet, mostly in drops, with much steam. The amount of water is small, yet is erupted with great force, reminding one of the eruptions of the " Castle." The spouting is at intervals of about two hours. The elevation of this " Upper Basin," is 7,770 feet, while that of the Upper Geyser Basin, proper, is from 7,800 to 7,400. On a small stream coming into the basin from the west, about a quarter of a mile from the river, is a fine cascade 130 feet high. The river rises in a small lake to which the name Madison Lake is given. From here the trail runs due east to Shoshone Lake, which is one of the sources of Snake River, giving origin to the main stream. From the " Upper Geyser Basin " to Madison Lake, is about ten miles, and from this lake to the Shoshone Geysers, the distance is about four miles. The trail is not very good, there being considerable fallen timber through the region to be traversed. Mount Blackmore. This mountain, pre- vious to 1872, was practically unnamed and un- known. It is situated in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, in Montana Territory, and at its base are the sources of the Gallatin River, which, 307 with the Jefferson and Madison Rivers, help form the mighty Missouri. It was discovered by the Hayden Exploration Party of 1872, and received its name under the PALACE BUTTE. following circumstances : While camped at Fort Ellis, and making preparations for the ex- plorations of the famous Yellowstone Expedition, the party was joined by Mr. William Blackmore, of London, one of Eng- land's scientific men. With him came his wife, who was anxious to see some of the beauties and wonders of our famous Yellowstone National Park. The fatigue and hardships of the journey from Corinne to Bozeman, 600 miles of staging, proved too much. On arrival at Bozeman, she was taken ill, and after a sickness of but two days, she died. Her grave lies at the foot of a mountain range, from which there rises a grand peak, stand- ing up like a huge monu- ment to her memory. To this peak the party gave the name of Mt. Blackmore. The height above the sea is 10,134 feet. The ascent is exceedingly difficult, and required over four days by the party who succeed- ed, and the scene from the summit is inexpress- ibly grand, and the field of vision is immense. Here a bird's-eye view is gained of the Gallatin River for over 40 miles of its course ; in the distance is the Missouri. Next are the Jefferson and Madison Rivers, and southward is a country whose ap- pearance is rough be- yond imagination. Peak upon peak looms up against the horizon the Snowy Range of the Yellowstone, with its high points, and the Madison Range with its numerous peak-capped summits. Nearly at the summit of Mt. Blackmore is the crater of an extinct volcano, and the peak itself is composed of black basalt and a brick-red lava. On the western and northern sides there is an almost perpendicular w a J J , too steep to hold any snow, in lodgment. 308 Palace Butte. In ascending Mt. Black- more, the Hay den Party passed through a lovely little park about a quarter of a mile in length, and almost oval in shape, bordered on all sides by a line of grand old trees, whose symmetry would have graced the finest artificial park in the world. Back of these trees, on the east, ris- ing to the height of over 3,000 feet above us, stood an almost blank wall of volcanic rock, the prevailing tint of which was a somber black, re- lieved here and there with streaks of red and green, as though it had been painted. This wall was surmounted by dome and spire-like points of rock, in whose crevices lay deep banks of snow. On the western side of the park, across the creek, was a second wall similar in character to the first. The effects of the weather had given curi- ous architectural resemblances. It did not re- quire a very vivid imagination to trace castles and fortress walls on the face of the wall. At the head of the park stands a monument-like pile of rocks, to which we gave the name of Palace Butte, and the park we call Palace Park. The butte rises in an almost dome-shaped mass from a blank wall, on whose sides we can distin- guish narrow, silver-like lines, reaching from the top down, until they are hidden behind the trees. These, we afterward discovered, are waterfalls fed by the snows above. Without any visible means of support, they seem to cling to the rock for protection. The scene as we came into the park was so strikingly grand, that we could not restrain our exclamations, and it was some time before we became composed enough to arrange our camp Shoshone Lake Geysers. In beauty the springs of the Shoshone Basin, are probably un- surpassed although the geysers are less active than those of the Fire Hole. They are at the extreme western end of the western arm of the lake, on Shoshone Creek, up which they extend for about half a mile on both sides. The most important geyser is the " Union Geyser," so called because it combines the vari- ous forms of geyseric action. It has three vents, each of which has built up a small cone. Its eruptions are irregular, the height being from 70 to 92 feet. Its location is on the east side of the creek, opposite Quick Run. One hundred yards up the stream on the same side, at the point of a hill, are the " Minute Man " and the " Shield Geyser." The former has a beautifully beaded crater four feet high, and its jets reach an altitude of from 30 to 40 feet. The shield has an ornamented mound with a shield-shaped opening. Between these geysers is the " Rosette Spring " in whose shallow waters are thin leaved rosette-shaped masses. A rocky knoll intervenes between this and the " Bulging Spring." From the latter, large bubbles of steam escape with a sound like that of liquid pouring from the bung of an overturned barrel. Forty feet beyond, is the " Soap Kettle " in which dirty colored water is boiling, covered with foam, looking like dirty soapsuds. Still farther on are the " Black Sul- phur Geyser," "The Twins," "The Little Giant," " The Iron Conch," " The Coral Pool," and a host of smaller springs, the description of which would be but a repetition of those already given. Hot springs are found also on Lewis Lake and Heart Lake, south-east of Shoshone Lake, and also doubtless in many localities yet un- discovered. From the region just described, we can retrace our steps to the Lower Fire Hole Geyser Basin from whence we can either follow down the Madison on the Virginia City Route, or return to Bozeman ; or, we can follow the Snake River passing Jackson's Lake, and the grand scenery of the Teton Mountains, and take the trail to Fort Hall, or crossing through Teton Pass, fo to the same place via Pierres River and nake River. HEIGHTS ATTAINED BY THE ERUPTIONS OF THE PRINCI- PAL GEYSERS IN FIKE HOLE BASINS, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. NAME OF OEYSEB. AUTHORITY. 1 Fountain, in Lower Basin, Hayden, 1871, Architectural, in Lower Basin,Hayden, 1871, Old Faithfnl, Upper Basin, Hayden, 1871, Old Faithful, Upper Basin. Old Faithful, Upper Basin, Old Faithful, Upper Basin, Old Faithful, Upper Basin, Giantess, Upper Basin, Giantess, Upper Basin, Giantess. Upper Basin, Bee Hive, Upper Basin, Bee Hive, Upper Basin, Bee Hive, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Castle, Upper Basin, Grand, Upper Basin, Grand, Upper Basin, Grand, Upper Basin, Turban, Upper Basin, Turban, Upper Basin, Giant, Upper Basin, Grotto, Upper Basin, Grotto, Upper Basin, Grotto, Upper Basin, AUTHORITY. HEIGHT IM FEET. 30 to 60 60 to 80 100 to 150 *132 150 150 100 to 150 250 *39 100 *219 100 to 150 100 50 10 to 15 *93 30 250 200 *173 200 *25 30 140 60 *41 25 Hayden, 1872, Norton, 1872, Comstock, 1873, Dunraven, 1874, Langford, 1870, Hayden, 1872, Norton, 1872, Langford, 1870, Hayden, 1872, Norton, 1872. Langford, 1870, Hayden, 1871, Hayden, 1872, Comstock, 1873, Dunraven, 1874, Hayden. 1871, Hayden, 1872, Comstock, 1873, Hayden, 1872, Comstock, 1873, Langford, 1870, Langford, 1870, Hayden, 1872, Comstock, 1873, * Measured by triangulation, the others are estimated. ELEVATIONS IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL. Mammoth White Mountain Hot Springs, 6,278 to 7,035 M ud Volcanoes. 7,756 to 7,800 Crater Hills' Springs, 7,828 to 7,979 Sulphur Springs on divide between Yellow- stone and East Fork of Fire Hole River, 8,246 Lower Geyser Basin, 7,250 to 7,350 Upper Geyser Basin, 7,300 to 7,400 Third Geyser Basin, 7,772 Shoshone Lake, Geyser Basin, 7,900 LAKES. Yellowstone Lake, Shoshone Lake, Lewis Lake, Madison Lake, Henry's Lake, 7,788 7,870 7,750 8,301 6,443 309 MOUNTAIN PEAKS. FEET ABOVE SEA LBVEL. Mount Hayden, 13,833 Mount Washburn, 10,388 Mount Sheridan, 10,343 Mount Blackmore. 10,134 Mount Delano (Yellowstone Valley), 10,200 Mount Doaue, 10,118 Klectnc Peak, 10,992 Emigrant Peak, 10,629 Red Mountain, south of Yellowstone Lake, 9,806 Lookout Hill, north of Shoshone Lake, 8,257 Old Baldy, near Virginia City, 9,711 PASSES AND DIVIDES. Teton Pass, 8,464 Tyghee Pass, 7,063 Reynold's Pass, Henry's Lake north to Madison River, 6,911 Divide, Yellowstone and Gallatin, on road from Fort Ellis to Boteler's Ranche, 5,721 Divide on Mount Washburn where trail crosses, 9,155 Divide between Yellowstone and Madison, on trail from Mud Volcanoes and Geyser Basins, 8,164 Divide between Madison and Shoshone Lakes, 8,717 Divide between Yellowstone and Lewis Lakes, 8,024 Togwater Pass, (Upper Yellowstone to Wind River,) 9,621 ANALYSIS OF DEPOSIT FROM THE HOT SPRINGS OF GARD- INER'S RIVER. Water and volatile matters, Lime, Silica, Ferric Oxide, Alumina, Soda and Magnesia, traces. 32.10 per cent. 67.70 per cent. 3.32 per cent. 3.62 per cent. 3.31 per cent. 10,5.05 ANALYSIS OF GEYSERITE FROM LOWER GEYSER BASIN. Water, etc., 9.00 per cent. Silica, 88.60 per cent. Alumina and Iron, 1.60 per cent. Lime, 0.95 per cent. Magnesia, Soda, Potash and Lithia, traces. 100.15 ANALYSIS OF PINK MUD FROM MUD PUFFS IN LOWER GEYSER BASIN. Water, 8.65 per cent. Silica, 44.61 per cent. Alumina, 45.09 per cent. Magnesia, 2.66 per cent. Iron, 1.86 per cent. Lime and Soda, traces. 102.87 ANALYSIS OF GEYSERITE FROM UPPER GEYSER BASIN. Water, 13.42 per cent. Silica, 79.56 per cent. Lime, 1.54 per cent. Alumina, 0.46 per cent. Magnesia, 1.78 per cent. Iron, Chlorine and Soda, traces. 96.76 ANALYSIS OF GEYSERITE FROM SHOSHONE LAKE, GEY- SER BASIN. 13.00 per cent. 76.80 per cent. 9.46 per cent. 1.80 per cent. Water, Silica, Alumina, Lime, Iron, Magnesia and Soda, traces. 101.06 The analyses given above are from the Reports of the Hayden U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories. Great Soda Mountain and Jupiter's Bath in the Yellowstone Keg ion. This natural curiosity is thus described by an artist who accompanied the Yellowstone Exploring Ex- pedition of Doane and Washburn. It is one of the most wonderful institutions the world can afford : "On the second day out from Boteler's Ranche thirty-three miles we diverge from the rocky trail on the Yellowstone, and after passing a short way up a creek called ' Gardiner's River,' we were led by an old mountaineer up quite a steep mountain. " Near its summit an immense boiling spring spouts out, by a number of mouths and pools, the water of which, as it flows, precipitates its soda, sulphur and carbonate of lime into a suc- cession of beautiful terraces and natural bath- tubs, and like the coral insect, builds perpetually upon itself, until we have before us a hill of snowy soda and carbonate of lime, which is from 300 to 500 feet in height, and covers at least 50 acres. The water is of a deep cerulean blue, and the temperature averages 160 degrees. The process of precipitation is very rapid, and one can fairly see it deposited in beautiful strands, crystals and geodes. The elevation is a little more than 6,000 feet above the sea. No more beautiful contrast in the world of light and color can be found for the artist, than in this spot which is surrounded by dark, rugged mountains, and shades of yellow, white, amber, pink and russet on the spring-hill itself." INDEX. PAOK. PAGE. PAGE. FAOB. Overland Travel. Shelton, 31 Laramie Peak, 87 Kaysville, 132 Hints and Comforts, 10 Sidney, 56 Laramie Plains, 83 Kelton, 167 Palace Car Life, 8 Silver Creek, 28 Latham, 97 Lake, 166 Railroad Routes, 12 South Platte River, 39 Lawrence, 100 Lake Point, 149 Sleeping Car Expenses. 13 Stevenson, 33 Leroy, 107 Lehi, 142 Preparations Westward Trip, 18 Summit Siding, 19 Summit Springs, 49 Lookout, 90 Marston, 104 Little Cotton wood, 141 Lucin, 172 Union Pacific R. R. Benefits, 6 Valley, 20 Warren, 38 Medicine Bow, 91 Medicine Bow M't'ns, 88 Matlin, 172 Millstone Point, 147 Discouragements. 7 Waterloo, 20 Millis, 111 Monument, 166 Fast Building, 8 History, 5 Willow Island, 87 Wood River, 31 Miser, 90 Otto, 81 Mormon Fortifications, 117 Ogden, 1L'6 Progress, 7 NEBRASKA. Adams, 60 COLORADO. Denver, 75 Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, 75 Percy, 93 Piedmont. 107 Pine Bluffs, 60 Point of Rocks, 99 Ogden Canon, 128 Ombey, 172 One Thousand Mile Tree, 124 Ames, 25 Alda, 31 Alkali, 46 Antelope, 58 Barton, 47 Big Spring, 47 Brady Island, 38 Bridge, M issouri River, 18 Brownson, 68 Brule, 47 Bennett, 58 Bushnell, 60 Chapman, 28 Chappell, 56 Clark, 28 Col ton, 56 Columbus, 26 Denver Pacific R. R., 73 Evans, 75 Garden of the Gods, 77 Grand Canon, Ark., 77 Gray's Peak, 77 Greeley, 73 Life in Colorado, 77 Manitou Springs, 75 Mtn. Holy Cross, 79 Notes to Tourists, 75 Pleasure Resorts, 78 WYOMING. Agate, 97 Archer, 61 Aspen, 108 Atkins, 60 Powder River Country, 81 Rawlins, 9.> Red Buttes, 84 Red Desert, 97 Rock Creek, 90 Rock Springs, 100 Salt Wells, 99 Separation, Sherman, Simpson, 93 Skull Rocks, 83 Soda Springs, 109 Stock Statistics, Summit, 96 St: Mary's, 94 Sweetwater River, 103 Table Rock, 97 Parley's Park, 122 Pay son, 143 Peterson, 125 Pleasant Grove, 142 Promontory, 164 Provo, 142 Pulpit Rock, 119 Quarry, 163 Rocks Echo and We- ber Canons, 122, 124 Rozel, 166 Salt Lake, 155 Salt Lake City, 132, 134 Sandy, 141 Santaguin, 143 Seco, 167 Sentinel Rock, 117 Coyote, 37 Cozad, 37 Dexter, 46 Elkhorn, 20 Elm Creek, 33 Fremont, 23 Gannett, 38 Baxter, 100 Bear River City, 110 Bitter Creek, 97 Black Buttes, >99 Black Hills, Wyoming, 88 Bridger, 107 Bryan, 104 Thaver, 99 Tie Siding, 83 Tipton, 97 Tongue River Country, 81 Tracy. 60 Utntah Mountains, 105 Wnlcott. 94 Shoshone Falls, Ki8 Spanish Fork, 143 Springs, Salt Lake City, 135, 136 Springville, 142 Steamboat Rock, 117 Terrace, 172 Gibbon, 32 Buford, 81 Washakie, 97 Uintah, 126 Gilmore, 19 Grand Island, 29 Burns, CO Carbon, 93 Wilcox, 90 Wind River Mountains, 87 Utah Central R. R M 131 Utah Lake, 147 Jackson, 28 Josselyn, 33 Julesburg, 47 Julesburg Incidents, 47 Kearny, 32 Kearny Junction, 32 Lockwood, 29 Lodge Pole, 66 Lone Tree, 28 McPherson, 38 Millard, 19 Carter, 107 Cheyenne, 64 Chugwater Valley, 91 Church Buttes, 105 Cotno, 90 Cooper's Lake, 90 Creston, 96 Dale Creek Bridge, 82 Dana, 93 Devil's Gate, Sweet- water, 110 Wyoming, 90 UTAH. American Fork, 142 American Fork Canon, 143 Black Rock, 149 Blue Creek, 163 Blonneville, 162 Bovine, 172 Brigham, 162 Bromley Cathedral, 119 Utah Southern R. R., 140 Utah Territory. 129 Utah Western'R. R., 147 Wahsatch, 113 Weber, 325 Weber Quarry, 125 Weber River, 120 Witches. The 119 Wood's Cross, 132 York, 143 Nichols. 46 North Bend, 25 North Platte River, 39 North Platte, 41 Egbert, 60 Evanston, 111 Fillmore, 96 Fort Steele, 94 Castle Rock, 116 Centerville, 132 City of Rocks, 170 Coalville, 120 Idaho Territory. Boise City, 171 Boise Valley, 171 Rattlesnake Station, 171 O'Fallon's, 46 Ogalalla, 46 Omaha, 15 Omaha Business, 17 Overton, 33 Papillion, 19 Plum Creek, 33 Potter . 68 Ri>'hland, 25 Riverside, 21 Rogers, 25 Roscoe, 46 Schuyler, 25 Granger, 105 Granite Canon, 81 Green River, 100 Grennville, 95 Hallville, 99 Hampton, 107 Harney, 84 Hazard. 81 Hilliard, 108 Hillsdale, 60 Howell, 90 Independence Rock, 110 Laramie. 84 Corinne, 162 Deer Creek, 145 Desert, Great, 157 Devil's Gate, 126 Devil'9 Slide, 124 Draperville, 141 Echo Canon, 1 15 Echo, 119 Farmington, 132 Gardening, Irrigation, 139 Half- Way House, 150 Hanging Rock, 117 Hot Springs, 129 Silver City, 171 Snake River, 171 MILITARY POSTS. Camp Carlin, Fort Laramie, 79 Fort Sanders, Fort Reno, Fort Casper, Fort Fetterman, 79 NEVADA. Argenta. 186 Austin. 186 (junction, 141 INDEX. PAGE. PAOE. PAGE. FAOB. Battle Mountain, 186 Toano, 173 Napa, 276 Giant's Club. 102 Beowawe, 185 Trout in Lake Tahoe, 218 Napa Junction, 276 Great Plains and Big Bonanza Mine, 211 Truckee River, 202 Napa Soda Springs, 271 Desert, 188 Bishop's, 176 Tulasco, 176 Napa Valley, 276 Great Railroad Wed- Bronco, 224 Tule, 190 Nevada, 240 ding, 164 Brown's, 198 Two Mile, 199 NewAlmaden Quick- Green River Rocks, 103 Brown's. 207 Virginia & Truckee R.R., 207 silver Mines, 269 Hailstorms, 60 Brunswick, 208 Verdi, 224 Newcastle, 243 Health Cheyenne, 66 Carlin, 180 Virginia City, 209 New England Mills, 241 Heat, 250 Carson City, 208 Vista, 204 Niles, 258 Iliff Cattle King, 52 Carson Sink, 214 Wadsworth, 200 Oak Knoll, 277 Indians. Astonished 64 Chicken Soup Spring, 177 Walker Lake, 214 Oakland, 259 Indian Burial Tree, 88 Clark's, 204 Washoe City, 207 Oakland Point , 261 Indian Prayer, 64 Clover Valley, 175 Wells, Humboldt, 174 Pacific Congress Springs, 27 1 Indian Trade, 62 Cluro, 182 White Plains, 198 Penryn, 243 Invalids, Advice to 44 Coin, 189 Winnemucca, 191 Pescadero, 270 ' Invalids, Hints to 274 Cornucopia Mines, 178 Winnemucca Lake, 202 Petrified Forest, 273 | Last Spike, 164 Dead Man's Spring, 174 Yank's, 217 Pino, 243 ! Letters, 204 Deeth, 176 Pleasanton, 257 Long's Peak, 61 Desert, 199 C ALIFORN IA. Pleasure Resorts of Maiden's Grave, Elko, 177 Alta, 233 California, 271 Mormon Church, Emerald Bay, 217 Altamont, 257 Proctor's. 225 Mormon Courtesies, 153 Empire, 208 Antelope, 244 Prosser Creek, 224 Mormon Religion, Essex, 224 Arcade, 244 Rocklin, 243 Mormon Social Life, 150 Franktown, 207 Auburn, 241 Railroad Works Sacra- Mountain on Fire, 113 Glenbrook, 216 Bantas, 255 mento, 244 Oasis in the Desert, 194 Golconda, 190 Batavia, 276 Sacramento, 246 "Off to the Mines," 237 Gold Hill, 208 Bay of San Francisco, 261 Sacramento Capitol, 246 Pike's Peak or Bust, 21 Granite Point, 198 Beet Sugar, 247 San Francisco, 262 Piutes, Customs, 192 Great Nevada Flume, 219 Big Trees Calaveras, 250 San Joaquin Bridge, 255 Piutes, Burial Dead, 189 Halleck, 176 Blue Canon, 233 San Joaquin Valley, 252 Piutes.Catch Fish, 189 Hot Springs, 199 Boca, 224 San Jose, 269 Placer Mining, 235 Humboldt, 194 Bridgeport, 276 San Leandro, 259 Platte Valley, 23 Humboldt Lake, 201 Brighton, 249 Santa Cruz, 269 Poker, a Chinese Idea Humboldt River, 202 Brooklyn, 259 Secret Town, 240 of, 239 Humboldt Sink, 214 California Pacific R. R., 275 Shady Run, 233 Pony Express, 42 Independence, 174 Calistoga, 277 Snow Sheds, 227 Prairie Dogs, 52 Iron Point, 190 Cannon's, 276 Snow Storm at Truckee, 226 Prairie Fires, 21 Lake Tahoe, 216 Cape Horn, 239 Soda Springs Station, 230 Prairie Hens. Shooting 24 Lake Tahoe Stage Cape Horn Mills, 239 South Vallejo, 277 Precious Stones, 66 Routes, 214 Cascade, 230 Starvation Camp, 228 Rabbit Drives, 199 Lake View, 208 Castle, 249 St. Helena, 277 Rabbit Robes, 200 Lookout, 208 China Ranche, 233 Stockton, 250 Race, Curious 93 Loray, 173 Cisco, 231 Strong's Canon, 228 Rainbows, 72 Lovelock's, 197 Cliff House, 271 Suisun City, 276 Rough Times, Chey- Lumber, 219 Climate, 270 Summit, 228 enne, 65 Mammoth Cave, 173 Clipper Gap, 241 Summit Valley, 230 Scientific Explora- Merrimac, 208 Colfax, 240 Sunol, 257 tions. 106 Mill City, 193 Creston, 276 Sutter Creek, 249 Sheep Raising, 84 Mill Station, 208 Davisville, 275 Tamarack, 231 Skillful Cookery, 237 Mines of Virginia City, 210 Decoto, 258 Thompson, 276 Sporting. 142 Mirage, 198 Dixon, 276 Truckee, 225 Sporting, 112 Moleen, 180 Dutch Flat, 235 Vallejo, 277 Stock Raising, 39 Montello, 173 Elk Grove, 249 Woodward's Garden, 271 Stock Raising, 65 Moore's, 174 Ellis, 255 Yosemite Routes, 253 Successful Farming, 31 Morgan, 208 Elmira. 276 Yountville, 277 Sunset Scenes, Mount Davidson, 210 Mound House, 208 Emigrant Gap, 233 Excursions, 267 MISCELLANEOUS. The Devil. Firing off 206 Thunder Storm, 71 Ore Lewis Mine, 187 Fail-field, 276 Ah Ching's Theology, 205 Tit for Tat, 205 Oreana, 197 Florin, 249 Alexis' Buffalo Hunt, 37 Tree Planting, 31 Osino, 177 Foster, 276 Alfalfa, 253 Tule land, 275 Otego, 174 Gait, 249 Battle with Indi- Vigilance Committee Palisade, 182 Geysers, 269, 273 ans, 3337, 49 Incident, 196 Peko, 176 Gold Run, 237 Black Hills. The 6872 Windmills, 87 Pequop, 174 Grass Valley, 240 Brown's Hole, 102 Yellowstone Park, 293 Piute, 189 Pyramid Lake, 202 Great American Canon, 240 Buffaloes, 62 Haywards, 258 Buffalo Grass, 46 ILLUSTRATIONS. Raspberry, 193 Insane Asylums, 250 Buffalo Robes, 26 Agnes Park. 69 Reno. 205 lone City, 249 Bullwhackers, 55 American Fork Canon, 144 Rose Creek, 193 Jackson, 249 Cattle Kings, 185 American Fork ( six Rowlands, 217 Junction, 243 Central Pacific R. R. scenes). 146 Ruby Range, 176 Kidd's Lakes, 230 Discouragement. 159 Ames Oakes, Portrait Rye Patch, 196 Lathrop, 252 Capital, 161 Anderson Valley, Salvia. 204 Scales, 208 Litton Seltzer Springs, 273 Livermore, 257 Expenses, 160 Bank, California Chimney Rock, 42 Battlement Rocks, 118 Silver, 208 Lockford, 249 Chinese in San Fran- Bear River Valley, 232 Shoshone, 185 Lodi, 249 cisco, 278 Bierstadt, Albert, Por- Shoshone Indian Village, 182 Lorenzo, 258 Chinese Workmen, 115 trait 30 Sinks of Nevada Basin, 214 McConnell's, 249 Cloud Effects, 57 Big Trees (six scenes;, 251 Steamboat Springs, 207 Medway, 255 CcalMine. 113 Black Hills (five scenes), 67 Stone House, 189 Melrose, 259 Colorado Plains, 58 Black Rock. Sulphur Mines, 195 Merced, 253 Coyotes, 59 Bloomer Cut, Sutro Tunnel, 210 Mineral Springs, 271 Curious Names, 205 Blue Canon, Tahoe City, 218 Mokelumne Hill, 249 Curiosities, Indians 91 Brigh am Young's Fam- Tecoma, 172 Thousand Spring Valley, 176 Moonlight Scenery of the Sierras, 240 Flaming Gorge. 103 ily Residence, Game Black Hills, 72 Brigham Young's Office, 136 INDEX. PAOK. Brigham Young's New FADE, Golden Gate, 266 PAGE. Mt. Blackmore, 306 PAGE. Shooting Ducks, 45 Residence, 139 Good Bye, 19 Mts. Hayden and Mor- Shoshone Falls. 168171 Bromley's Cathedral, 114 Gould, Jay, Portrait 22 an, 297 Shoshone Indian Vil- Buildings San Fraiiuis- Grand Duke Alexis' Needle Rocks, 118 lage, 162 co (five views). 264 Buffalo Hunt, 38 Oakland Avenue, 245 Sierras, Scenery 231 Bullvvhaeker of the Gray's Peak, 63 Oakland Garden, 245 Sign Mormon Stores, 137 Plains, 55 Great Eastern, Echo Oak Knoll, 272 Silver Palace-Car of Busted, 21 Canon, 114 Oakland Piazza Vines, 245 C. P. R. R., 161 Cape Horn ( three Great Railroad Wed- Ogden, 127 Skull Rocks. 82 views), 238 ding, 165 Ogdon Canon Nar- Snow Sheds, Union Pa- Castle Peak, 231 Great Salt Lake, 154 rows, 129 cific Railroad, 108 Castle Rock, Echo Ca- Green Bluffs, 234 Old Mill, Am. Fork Snow Sheds, Central non, 114 Green Kiver ( three Canon, 148 Pacific Raili oad, 224 Castle Rock, Green scenes), 98 Omaha. Scenes in (five Snow >heds Gallery, 225 River, 100 Green River, West views), 14 Snow Slide Mountains, 141 Central Pacific Rail- Bank, 102 Overland Stage, Indi- St reet Scene, San Fran- road, Representative Hanging Rock, Echo an Attack, 43 cisco, 270 Men, 158 Canon, 114 Palace Butte. 307 Summits of the Sier- Chimney Rock, 42 Hayden, Prof. F. V., Palace-Car Life, 2 ras, 221 China Ranche, 232 Portrait 30 Palisades of the Hum- The Pacific Tourist, 15 Chinese Theatre, Inte- Hoodlums, 265 buldt, 183 Thousand Mile Tree, 125 rior 289 Humboldt Canon, 184 Pappoose Scene, 195 Truckee River ( six Chinese Temple, 285 Humboldt Desert (six Pawnee Chief in Full scenes*. 203 Chinese Quarters, 279 scenes). 181 Dress, 51 Tunnel No. 3, Weber Church Buttes, 105 Humboldt River, 181 Petrified Fish Cut, 102 Canon. 127 Cliff House, 2(56 Humboldt Sink, 181 Piute Indians, 181 Tunnel, Strong's Canon, 227 Cold Stream, 234 Humboldt Station, 193 Platte River, near Fort Twin Sisters, 101 Coyotes. 59 Hunting Prairie Hens, 25 Steele, 95 Ute Squaw and Pap- Ouster, Gen., Portrait 30 Independence Itock, HO Pony Express, 43 poose. 163 Dale Creek Bridge, 83 [ndian Burial Tree, 88 Pony Express Saluting Uintah Mountains, 80 Deer Race with Train, 94 Indian Costumes, 50 the Telegraph, 44 Virginia City, Nevada, 209 Deeth Mountain Scene, 181 Indian Tent Scene, 27 Pony Express Station, 43 Vision Golden Country, 242 Desert, Great Ameri- Jupiter's Baths, 304 Powell, Major J. W., Wadsworth, 181 can. 181 Lake Angeliue, 230 Portrait, 30 Weber Canon. Heights, 127 D jvil's Gate, 127 Lake Esther, 212 Prairie Dog City, 53 Wheeler, Lieut., Por- Devil's Gate on Sweet- Lake Lai, 112 Prairie on Fire, 20 trait 30 wat->r, 111 Lake Scene near Gold Prospect Hill, 234 Wilhelmina Pass, 130 Devil's Slide, 126 Hill, 40 Prospect Hill, 232 Williams' Canon, 74 Devil's Tower, 72 Lake Tahoe, 215 Pulpit Rock, 119, 120 Windmill at Laramie, 87 Dillon. Sidney, Portrait 22 Laramie Plains, Morn- Pyramid Lake, 201 Winnemucca, Indian Donner Lake, 234 ing, 86 Representative Men Chief, 191 Donner Lake, 229 Lightning Scene, 71 Union Pacific Rail- Winter Forest Scene, Durant. T. C . Portrait 22 Little Blue Canon, 234 road, 22 Sierras, 206 Echo Canon Cliffs, 123 Long's Peak, 61 Residence D. O. Mills, 245 Witches Bottles, 118 Kcho Canon Mouth, 121 Mary's Lake, 226 Rock Cut near Aspen, 109 Witches Rocks, 118 Emigrant Gap Ridge, 232 Medicine Bow Mtns, 89 Ruby Range, 179 Woodward's Gardens, 268 Eminent Explorers and Men of California, Por- Salt'Lake City, 133137 Yellowstone Gejsers Artists. 30 traits 249 Salt Lake at Monu- (five views). 292 Egyptian Tombs, 118 Fountain, Hillside Gar- Missouri River Bridge, 14 Monument Point, 167 ment Point, 167 San Francisco Harbor Yellowstone Lake, 302 Yellowstone, Lower den, 245 Monument Rock, 122 (four viows). 266 Falls, 300 Fremont, Gen. .Portrait 30 Moore's Lake, 312 San Francisco View, 260 Yellowstone Park Gardens and Groves, 245 Moran Thomas, Por- San Francisco Mint. 263 Scenes, 304 Garden of the Gods, 76 trait 30 Scott. Thomas A., Por- Yellowstone Vallev, 304 Giant's Club, 103 Mormon Tabernacle, 138 trait 22 Yosemite, Biidal Veil. 254 Giant's Gap. 236 Mormon Temple, 135 Secret Town Trestle- Yosemite, Mirror Lake, 254 Giant's Ten, Pot, 103 Mormons (nine por- Work. 239 Yosemite, Vernal Falls, 256 Gilbert's Peak. 80 traits), 151 Sentinel Rock, 117 Glaciers, Mt. Hayden, 299 Mtn. of the Holy Cross, 78 Shady Run, 234 Total No, 256 ADDITIONAL INDEX. Atlantic City, 104 Camp Brown, 104 Napa Soda Springs, 271 Petrified Forest, 273 Artesian Wells, 115 Gey.-ers. 273 Pacific Congress Springs, 271 South Pass City, 104 Camp Stambough, 104 Miner's Delight, 104 Paso Kobles, 271 White Sulphur Springs, 273 HO! FOR CALIFORNIA II I Salubrious Climate, Fertile Soil, Large Labor Betutns* NO SEVERE WINTERS, NO LOST TIME, NO BLIGHT OR INSECT PESTS. Daily Trains from Boston, New Yort, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Chicap, Si Louis, Omaha and Intermediate Points, for San Francisco. Choice from Nearly Every Variety of Farming, Fruit, Grazing, and Timber JLands. The Central Pacific Railroad 60, Now offer, in sections, adjacent to their Railroad lines in CALIFORNIA, NEVADA and UTAH, a larg^ body of Land, most of which is well adapted to cultivation, and olfer unequaled advantages for settlement or investment. IN CALIFORNIA the lands lying on each side of the main line of the Central Pacific Railroad extend from the navigable waters of the Sacramento, above the Bay of San Francisco, across the broadest and most populous portion of tt.e Sacramento Valley ami both slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. They are diversified in soil, climate and con- strawberrins. small fruits and garden vegetables generally, and for the ea with which they can be grown to dimensions and perfection unattainable elsewhere. The lands in this belt, purchased of the Company, have resulted in gratifying success to tho settlers. Wheat can safely lie in the field till threshed and shipped, and the fruit trees and vines are not troubled by ineects or blight. Along the CALIFORNIA and OREGON BRANCH, in the rerowned Valley of the Sacramento, extending from the center to the northern boundary of the Slate, the Company also offer a choice selection, with the same general characteristics. This valley is at present the seat of the most successful culture of small grains (wheat, barley, oats, etc.) in the country, and also offers unrivaled facilities for extensive and profitable sheep and stock grazing. The whole 'com- prises some of the Best Land in California. IN NEVADA the main line of the Central Pacific Railroad orcupips the Truckee and Hnmboldt Valleyc, the largest and best settled in the State, at a short distance from numerous and important mining regions, whose yield of the precious metals is estimated at from fifteen to twenty million dollars annually. The lands of the Company are FO situ- a^etl as to command these markets for their produce. Large herds of cattle are maintained with little or no trouble in the Hmnbolilt Vallev and the valleys which join it. Wherever the proper cultivation has been applied, these lands have yielded good crops of fruits, cereal* and esculents. IN ITTAH, in the great Salt Lake and contiguous valleys, where the Mormons have so successfully demonstrated the fertility of the soil and the healthf ulness of the climate, the Company have also good land. Title, Patent direct from the United States Government* These lands will be sold in quantities and on terms to suit. Immigrants, colonists and capitalists, who desire to acquire indestructible real property, certain to advance in value, will be benefited by an examination. Pamphlets, maps, etc., will be furnished by application to B. B. REIDIDIlXrGK Land Commissioner Central Pacific R. It. Co. Railroad Buildings, Cor. Fourth & Townsend Sts., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. CHOICE OF 9,000 000 ACRES -OF- Agricultural, Grazing, Vineyard, and Timber Lands, -IN- SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, SITUATED BETWEEN San Francisco, Los Angeles and Fort Yuma, ALONG THE ROUTE OF WHO OFFER TO INTENDING SETTLERS AND OTHERS A variety of Lands adjacent to their Lines of Railroad in the Southern part of California, now nearly completed, between San Francisco Bay and the Colorado River, in Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, Stanislaus, Merced, Fresno, San Benito, Monterey, Tulare, San Luis Obispo, Kern, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, San Bernardino and San Biego Counties, Embracing Nearly Every Variety of Soil, Climate and Crops* All kinds of Cereals are raised with ease; also, Cotton, Tobacco, Hemp, and other Vege- table Fibres, besides Fruits of all kinds, including choice Grapes, Oranges, Lemons, Figs, Walnuts, Almonds, Olives, Castor Beans, &c. Wine making, Orchard- ing, Bee Culture, and other branches are successfully carried on. HANDSOME PROFITS ARE BEING REALIZED FROM THE MANAGEMENT OF CULTIVATED OR STOCK FARMS, And population is rapidly crowding to these newly-opened lands. Price, from $1.00 to $10.00 per acre, according to location. further information in regard to lands and means of access, &.C., apply to Jerome Madden, the Land Agent of the Company. SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD LAND OFFICE, Corner of Fourth and Townsend Streets, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL, m Idaho, Oregon, and Washington Territory, IN" COlSTlSTKCTIOlSr "WITH THE Union and Central Pacific Railroads. Coaches leave KELTON, Utah, on the CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD, DAII>T, at 6.00 A. M., for all points in Idaho Territory, Washington Territory, and Oregon, among which are UNION, OREGON. LA GRANGE, UMATILLA, DALLES CITY, PORTLAND, WALLA WALLA, ' e quick ns is consistent with safety and com- I>ESIRABI,K ROUTE, affording tlio trav- TICKETS can be purchased at Omaha and SNAKE RIVER MINES, IDAHO. BOISE CITY, SILVER CITY, ELDORADO, OREGON. CANYON CITY, BAKER CITY, New and elegant Concord Coaches, fine stock, and careful drivers. Tim fort. This is Ihc SHORTEST, QUICKEST, CHEAPEST, and MOST eler views of some of the finest scenery on iho Pacific slope. THROUGH Eastern Cities to all points on this Company's route. WILLIAM B. MORRIS, S. S. HUNTLEY, Gen'I Sup't, Boise City, Idaho. Gen'l Manager, Boise City, Idaho. The Big Horn and "Wind River Country IS RELA-CHEli BY THE SWEETWATER STAGE LINE. DAILY STAGES connect with the UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD at GREEN RIVER, thence via Pacific Springs, South Pass City, Atlantic City, Camp Stambaugh, Miners Delight, Sander City, Camp Brown. A, E. BRADBURY, S. S. HUISTTLEY, Supt-, Green River, Wy. Ter. General Manager. WILL FIND OFFICES OF THE mmt At the following Stations on the PACIFIC RAILROAD, at a short distance from the Depots. Ask for the WESTERN UNION, and look out for the Blue and White Sign. Omaha, Papillion, Fremont. North Bend, Schuyler, Columbus, Central City, Grand Island, Kearny Junction, North Platte, Ogalalla, Sidney, Bennett, Cheyenne, Laramie, Carbon, Ft. Steele, Kawlins, Bitter Creek, Rock Springs, Green River, Carter, Ililliards, Evanston, Echo, Weber, Ogden, Corinne, Kelton, Tecoma, Toano, Wells, Elko, Palisade, Battle Mount, Winnemucca, Oreana, Wadsworth, Reno, Boca, Truckee, Cisco, Emigrant Gap, Gold Run, Coif ax, Auburn, Rocklin, Rosevelle Junction, Sacramento. THE WIRES OF 1 Reach a larger number of Places, than those of any other Company in the World. BY THIS T^INE TH A.N BY OTHER. JPJ1 i STEAMSHIP COMPANY, JAPAN AND CHINA, Leave Wharf, Corner First and Brannan Streets, San Francisco, EVERY 24 DAYS, AT NOON, YOKOHA-MA- AND CONNECTING AT YOKOHAMA WITH Steamers of the Mitsu Bishl Steamship Co. for Shanghae. TICKETS. Cabin Plans on Exhibition and Passage Tickets for sale at 4= ISTew Montgomery St. 5 San Francisco. CEO. H. BRADRURY, T. H. GOODMAN, President. G-en'l Pass. Agent. 9> UeweleF w NOVELTIES OF NATIVE PRODUCTIONS, SURE TO INTEREST ALL. BEAUTIFUL WORKMANSHIP, SALT LAKE CITY and CHEYENNE, WYO. TX3ZE3 It is eligibly situated on Main Street, Salt Lake City, in close proximity to the Tabernacle, Temple, Museum, Theater, etc., and commands a magnificent view of the mountain ranges, the valley and other scenery. This Hotel is 4 stories high, Brick, with 132 Rooms, built expressly for Hotel Purposes, and furnished and finished in elegant style. It possesses all the modern improvements, such as hot and cold baths, barber shop and billiard tables. For the conven- ience of commercial men, nice sampling rooms are provided. The House has lately been thoroughly renovated and refitted. I have also in course of construction a new -MAKING THIS- The Most Complete Hotel between is noted for its Excellencies, and here are found all Game Fruits and Fish in their Season. The Proprietor gives his personal attention to the wants and comforts of his guests. Carriages with experienced drivers furnished at all times. To Tourists and Strangers visiting the City, I furnish a good Guide, free, who show them all Points of Interest in the City. TRAVELERS WILL HERE FIND ALL THE COMFORTS AND CONVENIENCES OF HOME, AFTER THEIR TEDIOUS JOURNEY OVER THE PLAINS. Proprietor. MODERN LUXURY ON THE RAIL ! THE MAGNIFICENT FOUND ON THE HOCK ISLAND HOUTE BETWEEN CHICAGO AND OMAHA, WERE BUILT, EQUIPPED, AND ARE RUN BY THE Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific R. R. Co., Furnishing their patrons with the most excellent MEALS, from full Bill of Fare, for 73 Cents. U^F" All Meals on the Great Overland Express Trains are furnished in these Cars, and yon have ample time to enjoy them without lear of "being left." If you do not desire a full meal, a RESTAURANT in same Car supplies everything desirable except Hot Meats, for a stated price per plate. PASSENGERS WILL BEAR IN MIND Tlint these are not the commonly called Hotel Cars, used as kitchen, dining room and bedroom, with all the attendant bad odors combined, and in which only a favored few are served. We recognize the fact that the patrons of our line with small means, and those not occupying apartments in our Sleep- ing Cars, are entitled to the equal privilege of a good meal. (J3F" These Cars are made absolutely FHEE FROM DUST by using the Winchell Ventilator. The Company have built a full complement of PALACE. DRAWING-ROOM and SLEEPING-CARS, which for ex- ternal beauty and interior arrangements for the comfort, convenience and luxury of passengers, are unexcelled, if equaled, by any other Cars of the kind in the world. Through Tickets for Sale at all Principal Railway Offices in the United States and Canada. DEPOT, HEAD OF LA SALLE STREET. M. SMITH, Gen'l Passenger Agent. .A. Gen'l Superintendent. THE p, wrlmijtmi mtd Safe, Quick and Popular Route -TO ALL POINTS IN- jiowa, The Burlington Eoute is universally acknowledged to be the Favorite for Omaha, Salt Lake and San Francisco. SAFE Because it has the heaviest Iron, the best ballasted Road-Bed, and the most perfect Track and Equipment of any road in the West. This is a sufficient guarantee to the passenger for his safety. QUICK Because its reputation for having its Trains always on Time, speak the fact that good management is combined with its excellent construction and equipment, thus in- suring Quick and reliable time. POPULAR Because its equipment of Day Coaches, of PULLMAN'S DINING CARS (run only on this line), and of PULLMAN'S i6-WHEEL SLEEPING CARS (the largest and most luxu- rious in the world), cannot be surpassed, if even equaled, by any in the whole country. INDEED The popular verdict has pronounced this to be the .A. -WILL IT TO IBIS so When buying Tickets, be sure they read VIA Chicago, Burlington and Quincy R. R. To be had at all Ticket Offices East and West. SAN FRANCISCO, CHICAGO, 4 New Montgomery Street. 59 Clark Street. NEW YOEK, 817 Broadway. BOSTON, 222 Washington St. H. P. STAJTWOOD, Gen'l Ag't. JAS. WALLACE, Ag't. E. P. RIPLEY, General Eastern Agent. D. W. HITCHCOCK, Gen'l Western Pass'r Ag't, Chicago, 111. OF THE -VIA Omaha, and Sidney, or Cheyenne! -- The Union Pacific R. R. OFFERS THE QUICKEST, SAFEST, AND MOST RELIABLE ROUTE TO THE NEW ELDORA.DO. Jgp= By it you avoid the SNOWS of the FAR NORTH, the BAD LANDS of Eastern and Northern Dakota, and the dangers and delays of Missouri river navigation. By it you secure all rail transportation to Sydney or Cheyenne, from wliicli points fast Stage Lines convey you to the Hills over" good Government Roads, and under the protection of the Mili- tary stationed along the route. These are the ONLY LINES running STAGES into the Hills. These are the Routes by which nine-tenths of the people now in the Hills have gone there. These Routes are used EXCLUSIVELY by business men and others from the Hills returning to the States for the purchase of goods etc. These are the only Routes along which Telegraph Lines to the Hills have been constructed. The only Routes over which Government Mails are carried. The only Routes open the whole year. The only Routes having Stage Stations, Supply Depots, Wood, Water and Grass along their whole length. .A.LL TIKE; a- OLID ( amounting to millions \ which has been shipped from the Hills, has come by these Routes, they being the only ones by which it could be SAFELY transported. These are the only Routes that offer First Class Transportation through to the Hills. With good Roads and Weather, the Stage trip can be made in These Routes are the QUICKEST, SAFEST, BEST, and taking into account SPEED, COMFORT and SAFETY, they are BY FAR THE CHEAPEST! 5EF= Through Tickets and the Reduced Through Rates, via either Sidney or Cheyenne, can ONL.Y BE SECURED by buying Tickets via OMAHA and the PACIFIC RAILROAD. Parties not ticketed via Omaha must pay local Stage Fare from Sidney or Cheyenne. 83T" For further information call at or address the Company's offices, 60 Clark Street, Chicago. 287 Broadway, N. T., or THOS. L. KIM BALL, G-en'l Passenger and Ticket Agent, Omaha,Neb.