If mm Vr X"!ai y.^ ^^ -fey, lL-— _ ... J^^ First Meeting House and Parsonage. Frontispiece. A. Thompson. High Street, Woburn, Beds., England, page J. T. Wood. 3 Municipal Building and First Univer- salist Church. Photograph. . 17 Ordination of Rev. Thomas Carter. A. Thompson. Second Meeting House. . . A. Thompson. The Courting Stick. . . Frizzell & Chaloner. Mt. Mianomo. Photograph, .... First Inn and Locks at Horn Pond. M. M. Tidd, Corporal Wright's Bridge, . . . . M Ruins of Viaduct. Photograph, Sail Boat. Drawing, . , Si. Fowle's Den. ...... A. Thompson The Black House. . . . . .A. Thompson Fowle Tavern. ...... A. Thompson Central House in 1855, with trees in road. Photograph, Main St., E. side, Union St. to Bank Block, 1835. A. Thompson Wood's Tavern. ...... A. Thompson Wright's Pond P.AGE 21 23 39 65 89 M. Tidd, Heliotype, Diagrammatic Love Cap. The Lady. Drawing. Cupid. Drawing, The Lovely Girl. Drav.ing, Osculation. Drawing, . Dunham's Pond in 1830. The Mousall House. Shoemaker working on low seat. Egyptian Sandal. Drawing, Assyrian Sandal. Drawing, . Roman Buskin. Drawing, Carbatine or Moccasin of American Squaw Moccasins. Drawing, Indian Snow Shoes. Photograph, Ancient Shoemaker's Shop. Company of Ancient Militia. Section of Atmosphere showing air circulation. Formation of Thunder Cloud. Weather Table showing annual winds and rains. P. K. A. Richardson Mary C. Blanchard A. Thompson A. Thompson Indian. Drawing, \. Thompson Nast Flammarion Flammarion '. L. Converse 100 111 117 119 123 125 129 141 151 152 154 155 156 157 171 181 182 182 182 185 185 187 203 223 237 239 245 Prologue. My native place, I love thee well, Each hill and vale with legends teeming, Thy changing views by lake and dell, Have like thy tales, a charm and meaning. Thy very name, of Saxon born In Mother Isle, far o'er the sea,, Woo-borne 'twas then, but Wood-brook sweet In English, dearest sound to me : — Brings hallowed thoughts of earliest times, Of steady gains down to this hour For God, humanity and right. Wrought by man's Heavenl}' given power. What seems so commonplace and old, Just how our fathers, mothers acted. The games they played, the stories told. And in what lines of thought reflected : — Will all be read in future days With wonder, when new customs come, Their dresses, living, sayings, plays. And how thej^ talked and looked at home. The Red-Man's mind excelled in fine Imagination's vivid power, And left in still unwritten line. Its high wrought notions to this hour. Woburn's old buildings now first shown To modern eyes, are preserved here, With plates of old-time scenes now gone, And streets as ancientlv thev were. XI The town's first Meeting House, Mousall's, First dwelling, built on " Hilly Way," The Locks and first Inn at Horn Pond, with Wright's and Dunham's ponds, both drained to-day. I haste to snatch what ought to last Of by gone ways, sights, legends, fading To mists in a relentless past, By type's immortal power me aiding. Help me, ye Shades ! to garner up These fleeting remnants ling'ring yet. Before Time's ruthless hand doth drop The curtain down on these unkept. In future years, when God's great laws, Have swept away all those now living, Who knew these former places, saws, 'Tis hoped that pleasure they'll be giving, — For here, a panoramic view. In pictured page quick passes by, And Woburn's ancient scenes anew, Stand prominent before the eye. Origin, History and Meaning OF THE Word Woburn. What's In A Name? Shakespeare. ;HE Jiistor}^ of Woburn has been almost ex- yi^ haustivel}' written by Rev. Samuel Sewall in his compilation for the city ; and by Rev. Leander Thompson, Wm. R. Cutter, Esq., and Hon, Edward F. Johnson, in their several able publications, but special "finds" oc- sionally add somewhat to our previous stock of knowl- edge, one of which, believed to be new, is presented in this article. Heretofore, in our historical searches, we have only gone so far as to investigate how* our town came o have its present name given to it, and in honor of whom, and of what place in the fatherland, was it so given ; but now we have the means to go further, and determine what is the origin, history and meaning of the word itself. On consulting a map of the New England States, so far as mere names are concerned, one might well suppose he was looking at Old England itself, so ex- clusively are the designations of the counties, cities and towns taken from those of the Mother Country ; and it is only on inspection of maps of the southern and western states that we realize the fact, that these designations have mostly disappeared, to give place to others, especially of Indian origin. The old question above mentioned, of how our town came to be designated bj^ its present name, has been discussed by Sewall in his History of Woburn, and b}^ Cutter and Johnson in their publications. There is no positive proof to be derived from the rec- ords or from traditions, so the m.atter is necessarily left to conjecture, based on what can be gathered from contemporaneous events available at present. Sewall, in his history, page 539, reasons, "that it was in honor of Hon. Richard Russell," who came to Charlestown, Mass., in 1640, from Hertfordshire, England, and who was a highly distinguished man here, generally supposed to be a relative of the noble family of the Russells in Bedfordshire, who had long been settled at Woburn, in that County, and were proprietors of Woburn Abbey, or of a palace built on its site, which the}' made their home ; and he infers therefore, that when Charlestown village was to be incorporated in 1642, by the General Court, Nowell, Sedgwick and Willoughby, deputies to the September Session, or one of them, might have proposed the name Woburn, out of their high regard for the greatly valued and distinguished new citizen, Hon. Richard Russell. The reasons advanced b}^ Hon. E. F. Johnson and William R. Cutter, Esq., in their publications are, that Capt. Robert Sedgwick was one of three distin- guished patrons in the settlement of our infant town, that he was born and baptised in Old Woburn, that in Charlestown, Mass., he was a neighbor of Edward Johnson, one of the principal settlers of our town, and a distinguished military officer, that he was very in- fluential here, that his family was one of distinction in England, and himself a noted man there, and was prominent in selecting the present location for our city. So they conclude, therefrom, that it was named in compliment to him, after his native place, viz.: Woburn, Bedfordshire, England. The matter is not free from doubt, for Hon. Richard Russell was a greatly prized accession to Charlestown, and a member of one of the highest families in England, the head of which then resided in, and owned the greater part of old Woburn. Of the patrons, Increase Nowell, magistrate, — the first named, a man of great influence, — took a promi- nent position, while Rev. Zechariah Sims the second, was the foremost of the clergy in those days when the church had almost absolute sway, both of whom would exercise the strongest influence, if they chose so to do, while Capt. Robert Sedgwick the last named of the Patrons was very prominent in the starting of the new town, although it appears b)!- Johnson's verse, that he, in common with Nowell and Sims, from fear the babe would outgrow its Mama, verj' early grew lukewarm and abandoned the struggling babe to its fate, even probably before it was named, and were never after heard of again in the history of the town or its settlement which might have had an ad- verse influence as against Sedgwick, and in favor of Russell. The records are silent. The evidence is purely circumstantial. Taking, however, both sides of the question into consideration, the theor}^ that it was named in part at least, for Capt. Robert Sedgwick, would seem to be the best of the two at present. But now the next question is, what is the origin, history and meaning of the word itself ? This would seem to be quite as interesting an inquiry as the above ; and further, if, outside of the reasons above given, it has any significance in its meaning, which lent a hand in giving that name to the infant settlement, and still further, how many places in the world have the same name, how are they spelled, and why are they spelled in so many different ways ? And still further, how many different ways has that name been spelled on letters, newspapers and packages received at the post ofl&ces of Woburn, Bedfordshire, England, and Wo- burn, Mass., U. S. A. It is to the pagan Angles, an ancient Low Ger- man tribe, from whom England derived its name Angle-Eand or England, who went over to Britian in the fifth century, and to the Saxons, also pagans, another Eow German tribe, first mentioned in history in 287 A. D., who together, in conjunction with other lesser German tribes, and the Jutes and Frisians, con- quered the native Britons and established the Anglo- Saxon Heptarchy, which various tribes had different dialects, also partly to the Normans and the Romans, speaking the latin language, that the English Nation is indebted for its consolidated " Mother Tongue" or " English as it is now spoken." And it must be here observed, that the Angles, Saxons and other tribes, like our American Indians, with most ancient, and especially barbarous nations, named themselves indi- vidually from some remarkable or noticeable circum- stance or occurrence, happening at or about the time of their birth ; and their several villages and noted places from some characteristic peculiar to, or distinc- tive of, the locality or place, or from some prominent event which had occurred there ; consequently it will be found on examination, that these old Saxons and other tribes gave expressive names to very many old English towns and places, often coining compound words, expresslj' to suit the particular locality, based on its special features, the true meaning of which can be discovered through the old Saxon or other tongue, and an examination of the situation. The above remarks will be found to have a strong bearing when applied to the question, "why Woburn, Bedfordshire, Wooburn, Bucks, and Woburn, Mass., were so named." There are tw^enty-one places in the world, so far as can now be ascertained, which bear the name of Woburn, in one of its various spellings, and these will be found on examination to be very sig- nificant, especially as applied to the older ones. 6 In England there are three towns, viz.: — Woburn, Bedfordshire, Wooburn, Buckinghamshire. Oburn, Dorsetshire. In the United States of America there are seven- teen, viz.: — Woburn, Middlesex County, Mass. Bond " Illinois " Mecklenburg " Virginia Woodbourne, Sullivan County New York " Bucks " Pennsylvania Illinois Indiana Iowa Kentucky Michigan Mississippi Nebraska North Carolina Oregon Tennessee Virginia In Canada there is one, viz. Woburn, Scarborough Parish, Ontario. Woodbrook, Baltimore Woodburn, Macoupin Allen Clark Warren Oceana Sunflower Platte Person Marion Union lyOudown The above are really all the same, and of Saxon origin. They are composed of a root, viz.: — the word burn, bourn, or botiriie, all meaning a brook ; and the prefix VVu, Woo or Wo all of which in the original were widtt ; in Anglo Saxon, zvudii ; in Old English, wode, in Modern English, wood. All these mean a tree, wood, timber. See Am. Enc. Die. p. 4538. In seven of the above, both syllables are left in the original Saxon, viz.: — Wo-burn, 5. Woo-burn, I. O-burn, i. In thirteen, the first sjdlable has been translated into English, while the last is in the original, viz.: Wood-bourne, 2, and Wood-burn, 11. One only has been fiilly Englished, viz. : Wood-brook. In seven the prefix has been retained untranslated ; '\n fourteen , it has been defined to mean wood, while in no one instance has it been assigned a different mean- ing. Here we see the process of transformation from the original tongue to the full English name, with the above result. Langley, in his history of the ' ' Hundred of Des- borough " in Buckinghamshire, England, gives the derivation of the town of Wooburn in that County, by saying " that it signifies a winding, deep and narrow valley, with a rivulet at the bottom, and the sides thick set with trees, ' ' therefore it was so named for its two local characteristics, viz.: rivulet and wood. Woburn, Bedfordshire, Eng., according to the history of that town, last ed. 1845, "has a little stream of water called 'Crawley Brook,' running through it," in a formerly wooded country, so the Saxons named it about the year 11 45, when a little hamlet, from its 8 local traits, while in neither instance, was an}^ other meaning than wood and brook ever hinted at. The only one in the above list in England, not exactly accounted for, is 0-burn, but it will be noticed that it has the same root as the rest, viz.: burn, a brook, but not the same prefix, either in Saxon or English, but its special first syllable O may be reasonably ac- counted for, either by it having a different meaning in Saxon, suggested by its particular locality, or by supposing that the W was left off in local pronun- ciation, and finally in writing and printing, like many another in England. Edmunds gives it as his opin- ion, that the prefix Wo is from Woh, a bend ; but the local authorities I follow, give no such meaning ; their writings indicate it was derived as above stated. Our first settlers, no doubt, had all this in mind when they came here, and named our town, for thej^ were men and women of education and refinement, well versed in Saxon and English lore, who would be strongly im^pressed by such things, and take particular notice of local peculiarities in choosing a name. It will be remembered on reflection, that the Aberjona river in the east part of our city, at the time our fore- fathers came here, w^as a notable stream of water, run- ning in a valley, through a heavity wooded country, therefore having precisely the local characteristics which in Saxon times caused their towns to be named as they were ; and it will also come to mind, that at that time, it was the spot first chosen as the site for the centre of the new town, so it appears that the 9 name Woo-borne would with their training and pre- dilections, apply with peculiar force in the selection of a name. Thus it would seem to be reasonably clear, that the Saxons in early days, gave Woburn, Beds, and Wooburn, Bucks, that designation, based on their similiar local traits; that our village possessed the same topographical features, still stronger developed, which probably did, in addition to what has been before stated, primarily influence the first settlers as much as an^-thing else, in choosing that Cognomen as the name of their infant settlement. Therefore, whether named in compliment to Rus- sel, or to Sedgwick, or for both, and for its local characteristics combined, which might fairly be argued, in the absence of positive knowledge, thanks to our poetical ancestors, they followed their ancient customs, by recognizing local features and the romantic in their choice, in giving us the expressive Saxon compound word Woo-borne, equivalent to the still more beautiful English translation Woodbrook, as the name of our city. By the kindness of Dr. George B. Clarke of Wo- burn, Bedfordshire, England, I have been furnished with a rare copy of the history of that town, together with a plate of its principal street, also with a com- plete list of the different spellings of the word Woburn, on letters and packages received at the Post ofBce there, as noted by the postmaster, which list is given below. 10 Various ways of spelling Woburn, collected from letters and parcels by the Postmaster of Woburn, Bedfordshire, England. 242 diflferent ways. Aubon Oporne Whobern Owburn Whoborn Boubone Obering Whobron Booburn Obborn Whohousn Buorn Olburn Whoobowen Obarn Whorebin Obren Whopen Habon Oobourn Wobburn Hoaborn Obert Woberan Heuborn Obairn Woban Hobern Obowin Wobberon Heobren Wobirn Hoburn Roburn Wobon Holbern Roobud Wobourne Holbin Reuber Waboun Hoolborn Roobnd Wobran Horeban Wo Bin Horbon St. Woburne Wobourn Houboun Uborn Woeburn Hourbon Uburn Wohbourn Hubarn Uobeen Wolburn Huban Uberer Waobourn Hubearn Uuburn Woobeern Huben Ubon Woobun Hubborne Ubun Wooburge II Hubon Woodbarn Hurben Valbon Woolbon Hurbon Vobam Woolburn Hurbn Woosbon Hubrn Woubnn Worborn Hurbin Woborn Woowbourn Hoabir Wooburm Wolborn Houbone Whrbourn Wolbor Hubbon Wobebourn Wooborn Hucbuer Whoebard Wobreo Hobor Woubon Woobern Hobart Worbn Worbon Houghburn Whobeen Woslorn Huburnon Wouber Worbebntn Hotsburn Whabarn Wouboarene Hoham Woabbern Woubun Holobon Woben Wouben Hubman Wholboon Woubure Hubeen Wosburn Wouburn Horbern Wobewn Wabourn Hobn Woubenn Wubon Hubhurn Wourbunn Wobury Houglibourn Wubawm Wobuan Hawburn Woubur Wwoburne Hurbunn Wayboum Wobuom Houberon Wobuen Whoper Herborn Woodburn Woobenud Hawboum Weeburn Woowborn Holbourn Woronburn Woarnb Hubburn Woblowne Wobborn 12 Holbhorn W alburn Worbunn Hooben Wodburn Wwoo Burn Habaen Wehbborn Woabarn Hulbon Waban Wobans Howbrn Whuband Wooben Hobuend Worborne Wodurn Ho won Wouber Wolbourn Harborn Wolarn Woutbon Hoobbern Whobroun Wooborg Hoobone Wosurin Worban Haurbern Woorbunn Wilburn Hoobun Woerben Woodutn Wbun Woobbern Muubborn Wburn Wobin Weburn Woodburnt Naburn Woburn Wobwen Noburn Wobin Warben Norborn Woolm Wobre Woabom Wannbourn Oberon Waberne Wobbern Obon Wabm Womborne Obron Wabume Wodun Obern Woobun Wuborn Orbon Woobum Woolboum Oburin Wbren Woroben Oumbun WBun Wobunn Obburn Whe Bren Woven Onbourn Wheorborn Oueeborn Whoban Orooburn Youbom 13 By the kindness of Miss Clarabel D. Flinn, the popular clerk at the Woburn, Mass., Post-office, I have been favored with a list of the various ways in w^hich the word Woburn, and also the word Massa- chusetts, have been spelled on letters and parcels re- ceived at that office, and preserved by her. This list is appended, and contains 107 different ways Woburn has been spelled, and Massachusetts 12 ways. Auburn Whoborn Wovebreon Auoburn Welen Wobuen Woboron Bobum Wrabrins Wobourin Woburn Womber Hobern Wobrey Worlion Hoben Worbin Wobyrus Wobrun Wobarn ]\Iorbrean Wobon Womlen Mabburn Woebeyrne Wouben Mobern Woboen Woburen Woubern Worborn Naborn Woman Wowbyone Woutun Woeburen Obum Wobearin Woboyrn Oburon Woaburan Wooberurn Obearu Wofurn Wooping Oben Wooeburn Woughburn Obben Woobun Wobron Obewrn Woter Wobbom 14 Oborn Wourbourn Wobering Oobean Woborin Woberrn Ovvbourn Wobinn Wobeowern Wokers Woucliern Roburn Wobwrien Woorbie Wobourne Woeborn Thoburn Wobean Wobron Wooburning Wobuin Uban Woborne Wouben Wooburn Woodburne Wahern Worbun Woeaburn Waburs Woeburn Wodurra Whobon Woberne Whearwan Woborn Yoman Whoburn Wobborn Yobrun Whobourn Wofan Yeobourn Whobaii Wouban Youbourn Washburn Wohoburn Yoburn Wehoen Weyburn Wobur Yoborn The name of the town in England from which we are supposed to have derived the name is spelled " Woburn." In the Act of Incorporation of our town it is spelled ' ' Wooborne. ' ' iVt Miss Burges' Academy, Woburn, in 1805, it was spelled " Woborn." At the present time it is spelled " Woburn." By the public at large it has been spelled 107 different ways. 16 The spellings of the name of the State were as follows : Massachusetts Massatuces Massetuses Massetutisces Massattuties Massitutes Masscusses Massetusion Massacute Macisets Masstael Maccufsin 16 Traditions, Legends and History OF Wo BURN. "History to be popular, shouldbe written like a story." The land lay in its native loveliness, Untouched b}' white man's foot, or plough, or spade ; The Indian's silent moccasin alone Pressed Autumn's leaves, or violet banks of Spring, Save only where the panther's stealthy tread, Or clumsy step of bear or prowling wolf. Were heard or seen amid the forest glades. The air, sweet Nature's breath, blew through the pines, Strong with the scent of rose, swamp pink and fern, And kissed the dusky cheek of Indian belle. Who dressed her coal black hair with native grace, Beside the mirrored surface of the lake. While her bright eye, like India's regal gem, Flashed in the depths of water, dropping clear From azure, starlit curtains hung in space. Offerings of purity from Heaven to earth, Into the silver bosom of the lake. Kind nature's mirror set among the hills. All this had been for ages long unknown, On these far western shores, a wilderness ; The curse of rum, and sordid thirst for gold. Had not yet touched these simple savage minds With their seductive spells, but here the}^ lived. Free from these vices which afflict a white man's life. - s Z c D I- H -2 17 But Nature's laws tend to a higher plane Than savage state ; the earthy shell is naught, Man's greater self is soul, attuned to aims Immortal ; e'en the Indians felt the force Of this great truth, for from a time untold, Traditions handed down, had told the tale Of how, from o'er the seas, would come a foe. Whose greater strength would sweep them from the land. They came ! "those iron men, of virtues stern, And Christian faith ; the Mayflower's booming guns In Plymouth Harbor tolled the red man's knell, And woke a continent to higher life," 18 The Aboriginees. "First they fell upon their knees, and then upon the Aboriginees." Bishop John Williams of Conn. HEN our forefathers came here, this land was the home of Indians. Prince calls '€^£K^ them Aberginians.* Late investigations have made it clear, that they were a petty tribe of the great Abnaki branch of the Algonkin Nation, whom, their traditions say, came from the west after their defeat by the Dakotas, and spread in ancient times, quite from the St. John's River on the East, to the Connecticut River in this State, and who in all their petty tribes had speech and traditions alike. Their language was Algonkin, one of the four radically distinct ones in fact, then spoken by North American Indians to the eastward of the Rocky Moun- tains, viz.: The Eskimo north of the Straits of Bellisle; The Athabascan south to the St. Lawrence ; The Al- gonkin south to Cape Hatteras, and westward to the Mississippi ; the Sioux or Dakota farther west. These • Queare, should not the word be spelled Aberjonians, and was not the Aberjoua River so named after them? 19 Indians do not appear to have been warlike, at least the settlers of our town did not have to fight with them, as did those of the surrounding towns with other tribes. The records show they lounged around, and begged for '■ ' oncape' ^ and what they could not steal. They wore deerskin leggings, moccasins and robes. Their weapons were a tomahawk of stone, a long powerful bow, usually made of hornbeam, arrows tipped with flint, and flint hunting knives. They had no art of pottery, but used shells of quahaug and clams to eat with, and stones hollowed out for cook- ing. Their wigwams were poles stuck in the ground, and covered with skins. These simple hunters, with their cruder weapons, could not long withstand the higher trained white, with his more effective warfare, and greater destiny, consequently they dwindled away before his advance, till the poor remnant left, with their last chief, Hannah Shiner, made their final camp and disappeared from sight, at what has since been know^n as " Gardner's Locks," on the Old Mid- dlesex Canal, at present Winchester. These Indians had one delicacy peculiar to the land, maize, the mythic account of the origin of which is told by L^ongfellow in his poem of Hiawatha. Small fields of this Indian corn among the woods, in clear- ings made by the Squaws, tossed their gay tassels in the summer breeze, right where our city stands, long before the white man came, or knew the sweetness of a hoe cake, Indian bannock, or corn pone. The red man boiled it soft, and called it Sukquttahhash, to 20 which the white man added beans, which were un- known to the natives, then shortened the name to Succotash. These Indians had a village in the shadow of Rag Rock. CHURCHES. The church was the first thing thought of by the settlers, after shelter was provided. All peoples recognize with reverence a Higher Power. So in this far western wilderness, the Indian and the Englishman saw and acknowledged God, but in a different way. The Indian in the tempest's roar and flash ; the Saxon with a higher cultured mind. The sweet seclusion of untainted woods, called all to natural, untrained worship. The Red Man and the Saxon each bowed down on lowly knee before their common Maker, in Nature's unbuilt temple 'mong the hills, hung with unpainted pictures, made by God, of landscape framed in ledge, on mountain's side, with tints beyond an earthly artist's skill. The birds, the trees, the firmament and speaking brooks, preached sermons which all races understood. The prayer instinctively went up from all, to the great source above, from which they came. The solemn diapason of the winds played sweeth" Na- ture's music to all alike, and which all without study comprehended. For to each and everj'^ one, be he or she of savage birth or not, or white or black, or to whatever sect or creed belongs, there comes stealing o'er the soul, the sure mind hearing words, that bind 21 tlie finite to the infinite, and give assurance of future life. So all instinctively stretched forth their arms in utter weakness for Jehovah's aid. No wonder, 'mid such scenes as these, quite free from skeptic's muddled vision, the savage worshiped Manitou in simple untaught way ; while the white man in his lowly church, by reason trained, and rev- elations light, saw Deity with greater, holier view. THE FIRST MEETING HOUSE. History and tradition unite in saying, that The First Church or Meeting House as it was then called, stood *' in a small plain where four streets meete.'^ These streets were ' ' Hilly Way ' ' now Montvale Ave- nue, where Dea. Mousall then resided, "South Street," now Main Street, "Upstreet," now Pleasant Street, and " Military Lane," which then ran from " Hilly Way" by the "Training Field" (now the Common) into Upstreet, this last, no doubt, being present " Common Street," or to describe the location as it now is, a very little east of the present band stand, at the southwesterly corner of the Common, then George Bunker's lot. The colored frontispiece gives an accurate repre- sentation in its general features, of this First Temple of God in the wilderness, which was built in 1642 or later, there being uncertainty as to the exact time. It was no doubt constructed of timber and boards ; the corner posts were probably driven into the ground and made with rafters inside. 22 The roof, without reasonable question, was thatched, like that of the first church in Boston be- fore it. The people were called to worship in that old Meeting-House by a bell hung on Powder House Hill, then called " Bell Hill." There were no pews within, only rough benches. The previous building of the Converse House of tim- ber and boards in 1640, the subsequent erection of the Mousall House of the same materials later in the same year, the fact that numbers of houses then in Charlestown, were built of lumber, which was for sale there, and the additional facts that Converse's saw-mill was then going, only two miles away, while one was in operation at Menotomy, now Arlington, five miles off, in 1637 ; with the absence of any evidence, either by records or tradition, showing the existence of log houses at any time in town, warrant the assertion that it was not built of meaner materials than the pre- viously erected dwellings around it. By reference to the plate, the parsonage of Rev. Thomas Carter can be seen in part in the rear, with Mount Mianomo in the distance ; which building is said to be now a part of the interior of the present Sylvanus Wood House. "We can at this late date go back in mind, and see the earnest souls, with downcast eyes, and book in hand, go to that little Meeting House, o'er Mili- tary Way, Up Street and Hilly Way ; while now and then a little Red Riding Hood may be imagined, going through forest paths, with pot of beans, or In- dian suet pudding, to some one in need of help, while .^1-^1' b^ <.»>, 1^1 A bo c if) H 23 perchance, a greedy wolf, with eager eyes and gleam- ing teeth displayed, followed her, but taught by past experience, let her pass in peace. THE SECOND MEETING-HOUSE. On November 20, 1671, the old Meeting House being much decayed, the town voted to build another. This second meeting-house was erected in 1672 on the Southwest side of Meeting House Hill, part of the way down from the top, nearly in the rear of the north end of the present old Leathe house. It faced south and was approached by a winding road, leading from Hilly Way, now Montvale Avenue. This second Meeting-hottse v.'as forty feet square, its frame was of oak, its roof was surmounted by a small cupola or tur- ret in which hung a bell, the windows were casements, that is, opened in the middle like blinds. The lights of glass were diamond shaped and set in lead. Gal- leries extended all around inside, with one upper one for the negroes, then numerous here. Originally there were no pews for the people, that being consid- ered too aristocratic a privilege to accord any one, so for forty years only two were permitted, viz.: the minister's pew, and one for the deacons' wives, the deacons themselves, and the sexton having seats of their own; but in 1713, Col. Jonathan Tyng, a very distinguished man, who married the daughter of Rev. Jabez Fox, and came here to reside, was given leave to erect one, these three being the only permanent 24 ones ever permitted in the clmrch. The seats for the people were low backed settles. Several stables each nine feet square, stood south of the church, also a horse block. On the pulpit was a cushion and an hour glass to warn the minister when to stop, but no Bible, that being, from prejudice, the custom. In front, outside, was a Sun dial, to tell when to ring the bell. The sexes were seated separately ; the men on the east, the women on the west side. Twenty-six men, two at a time, looked out for bad boys. Nine tithingmen looked out for the rest. The girls often, to save their nice shoes and stockings, came bare- footed, and stopped for a moment near the church to put them on. This church cost about 334 English pounds. A mental picture, traditionally drawn, will show the minister in the pulpit, the deacons in their places, their wives in the deacon's pews, the sexton in his seat near the parson, the tithingmen rapping the boys with the ends of their long staves, the men, the prose of life, on one side, their wives, and maidens prim, the living poetry of creation, sweet of speech and look, dressed in bombazine or calico, with plain poke bonnets and white handkerchiefs tied neatly round their necks, on the other, the men in knee breeches, cocked hats and queues, with coats and vests of quakerish cut and length, all kneeling at prayers, with faith beyond a doubt ; while many of these had walked even five miles, ofttimes through heavy drifts to a cold church, without a flinch or fail, year after year ; that was true religious zeal, before whose fire. 25 our modern worship seems quite spiritless. These were the men and women, who, when the box was passed, which was a silk bag at the end of a pole, with bell attached, to wake the sleepers up in time, and tinkle sweetly while the money dropped, put in with- out reserve, their hard earned cash, to help the cause which all then had earnestly at heart. They were meek children before their Maker, but stern and reso- lute before their foes. The plate gives a correct representation of this, the Second Aleeting House and its surroundings. THE THIRD MEETING HOUSE. In 1748 the Third Meeting House was raised. This one stood on the easterly side of the Common close up to present Main Street, then South Street, •the hill at that time coming somewhat down onto the street ; it had pews for all, and was the last where all worshiped, as the people soon after broke up into dif- ferent sects. PENALTIES AND PUNISHMENTS. Of&cials had to attend to business promptly, or pay a fine. A Selectman was required to pay three shillings, if he was absent or tardy, unless it was by providence of God. Capt. John Carter was fined sixpence for being ''one tyme nere an hour to late.^^ 26 Francis Kendall, another one who lagged, con- tributed a second sixpence fine, to make up for lost time. Others helped out the finances in a similar manner. "Now ye be late, ye took the time, As "tynie is raonie," pay j^our fine." Old Song. Citizens had to "catch it" as well. If any one failed to attend town meetings, or wasted time in bad or senseless talk while there, or in fooling away the time, a fine was sure to follow. This bit of practical philosophy would be a good thing today, to stop silly speeches made for pure politics and nothing else. Offenders had to "mind their eye," or they'd get a dose relentlessly dealt out. Tradition says, that on the "Training Field," at the northeast end of the "Common" as it now is, there was a "Whipping Post," where now and then some degenerate son of evil ways was soundly trounced, to make him good and smart ; while nearer to the third Meeting House, a Pillory, like a huge cage, loomed up to frighten all who dared to take too much ' ' blackstrap ' ' or violated the laws of mejim and tinim. The way of the trans- gressor was hard, indeed, for all such were exhibited therein, as drunkards, thieves or whatnot, for several hours, with a sign in front setting forth their enormi- ties, while the boys jeered, and sometimes spattered them with mud ; then lettered with a D, as they went out ; while if they got in that old cage again, they were labeled " C. /?." and soundly whipt. 27 If that old post was now in place, And cage to frighten all, The D's and C. D's would leave town, Or loud lor mercy bawl. Sometimes a common drunkard had a ''Red Cloth Z>" hung round his neck, or pinned to his clothing, and his right to vote was taken away for a time, " Be they white men, Indians or their squaws." The Selectmen appeared to be a court of law and equity with general powers, who punished all that did a naughty deed of any sort, oppression, drunkenness, charging too much for wages or work, or as it would seem, for what they thought was wrong ; while on the other hand, they eased the poor, by taking oflf their taxes for the year, or lending cows belonging to the town, free from rent, to widows in distress, furnishing as well, whatever was lacking, being in very truth, the "Fathers of the Town." " They helped the good, punished the sinner, And to the poor sent many a dinner." But one thing seems to us strange, that while they set the drunkard in the pillory, or fined, or whipt ten lashes for a drunk ; at the same time, they raised their churches with rum, and treated parsons, visitors, doctors when they called, out of decanters kept for the express purpose, while all these men were ready for a drink ; and v/hen they died, buried them with rum, gin, brandy, drank before and after going to the grave, according to their several ranks, while the town often paid the bills. 28 TAVERNS, In 1653, the Count}^ Court granted the first license to keep a house of ''Como?i Enterteinvient^^ at Woburn. This license was granted to John Seir (Sears), but the location of the tavern is unknown. Joseph Carter was licensed in 1671. Samuel Walker, the third, in 1674. In 1683, Walker kept the "Ark" on Main street, opposite the "Reading Road." This ancient inn was built in 1674, and taken down in 1828, but the sign remained swinging for a long time after. On April 16, 1662, Walker was granted the first license in Woburn, to ''still strong waters and relate the same,'" but soon after he was fined for selling to a drunkard. On the same day John Seir, and others, were licensed to keep houses of comon enterteinment , and also to sell wine, but were prohibited retalei?ig strong waters. As others were known to sell without license, general laws in the state were passed by which any person might search for and seize intoxicating liquors, and if proved they were intended for illegal sale, the seizor for his trouble, should have one half, which were the first seizure laws passed in this state. The old topers would often get trusted for a pint or quart, so their scores were "marked up" in two columns, with chalk, on the inside of the closet or cellar door, each column headed P. or Q.; this was the way the old saying of mind your Ps and Qs came, which exists today. 29 In those times they drank out of peT\i;er tankards which sat on the bar, and were kept '■'sinned up.'' Beside these tankards was a sugar bowl and a wooden toddy stick to stir with. These bars always had a railing, and therein were sold whipsticks to the farm- ers to drive oxen with. These sticks had a ^f 1,, / '■ii'\!;*\;>'' .{« !;«' 1 o CO CQ O H 119 The bar was semi-circular, placed at the back right hand corner, with the customary railing around the top. All the taverns about here had a similar one, in fact, it was the most important feature of a tavern at that time, for toddy was then used by all; and it is safe to say, that not one drop of impure or doctored liquor was sold from the bar unless a little pure water was added. It was a higher civilization that intro- duced the horrible drug compounded fire-waters of to- day, for the sake of gain, and to give the ''Cuf to them, for the purpose of satisfying the depraved tastes of those who now frequent the liquor saloons. Pewter tankards, sugar bowls, toddy sticks, and plain thick glass tumblers in later years, occupied the bar itself; while on the shelves behind, were ranged numerous decanters, with but few bottles, having in them New England rum. West India rum, gin, brandy, Maderia wine and port, but no whiskey, for that had not then been manufactured, while on the floor, stood a jug of molasses, wherewith to make black-strap (a corruption of the old English word blackstripe,) and a barrel of beer to make flip, while the loggerhead which put the finishing touch on the flip, was resting against the andiron, with its larger end in the embers- Crackers, cheese, saltfish stripped up, and ginger- bread for refreshments, occupied a prominent place, while lo7ig nines and short sixes stood in tumblers, for a smoke, as the customers went out, or lounged about. It was seldom that anyone was seen really drunk, the few topers only getting silly and sleepy, when they 120 were ' 'over the bay' ' , as the liquors were perfectly pure; but now-a-days the drugged compounds drank create a raging, tormenting thirst constantly demanding more! more! but never satisfied, till they are drunk "clean through^'' "fighting drunk''' being a common expression for these as they parade the streets, ready to pitch upon anybody on the slightest provocation or no provocation at all. At the west end of the house, was a long un- finished two story wing, nearer the street than the present stable, left open below, and with horse troughs all along the back side for country teams, while the unfinished loft above, with its loosely boarded up places left for windows, served as a home for myriads of doves. At the north of the house was a log pump, with a large plank trough, close to the road. Right in front, near the centre of the street, as shown by the plate and also in plate of the Central House made from a view taken in 1855, were two giant trees, an elm and a willow, although some say, that earlier there were three. Between these trees were horse troughs, where travelers fed their horses, while they themselves were having a three cent drink in the Tavern. These trees were standing in 1858, but were cut down soon after. Rev. Jacob Coggin who at one time kept the hotel, occasionally preached, so just before the close, he used to announce, "that after service, refreshments would be furnished at his tavern to all who wished," then he pronounced the benediction, and hurried home to deal 121 out bodily comforts to those who had just partaken of his spiritual food, performing both functions himself for the good of the people, and his own personal gain. This Ancient Inn was the scene of stirring events. It was not only a tavern, but a place for holding meet- ings, and people assembled here in times of excitement to hear the news, and to determine a line of action. It was here that the minute men met on January 4, 1775, to organize and discuss events. At this time the popu- lation of the town was 1600 souls, while the taxpayers numbered 311. According to Mr. Dwight F. Eager, a master carpenter, he was at work on the present Central House in the fall of 1840, when the great Harrison political rally passed by, and finished it in 1841. The population of the town at that time was 3000. It was built by Mr. Joseph Rollins, formerly ostler at the Fowle Tavern, who had bought the estate; but unfortu- nately for him, in building, he trespassed on the town's land to the north, so in digging away the ledge to furnish a sufficient way for the town to the old Burial Ground, he expended so much that he was compelled to sell it, and became ostler there, when he exempli- fied the changes of fortune by saying that when he was ostler, people used to sing out, " where 's Jo, where's Jo;" when he became landlord, the cry was, "where is Mr. Rollins," but when he went back to his old place, he again heard that old cry "where's Jo, where's Jo." Just north of the hotel will be seen on reference to the plate of the Central House, the build- 122 ing now standing, where several of our citizens now^ gone, kept a store, viz; — Thomas Hovey, Jr., P. S. Barnard, Amos Bugbee, Noah B. Eastman, James S. Ellis and Rufus Smith, be3^ond which, under the ledge, is shown the old Town Cattle Pound in plate of the Fowle Tavern; usually in those times kept well tenanted with stray cattle. Still further north, in the plate of the Central House, is seen the building, now gone, where Dr. Joel F. Tha5^er once had an apothecary's store and tin shop; and where Dr. Elbridge Trull afterwards carried on the same business, with a tin shop in the north end, before he built at the corner of Main and Union streets opposite, and removed his business there. The plate also .shows, that at that time, the Journal building had not been erected, as the original stone- wall is seen. The gentleman standing at the door under the piazza is Mr. Andrew J. Parker, then owner of the estate. For mau}^ years this was " The Place," in Wo- burn, for dancing and sleigh ride parties. The hall was a large one, accommodating 50 or more couples. Here Ned Kendall, the prince of bugle players with his silver, and afterwards with his gold bugle, which always electrified the dancers, was often seen; but it was only by its magic tones that he took all by storm, for as a cornet player he was only fairly good, many players of the time surpassing him on that instrument. Jim Kendall, his brother, was side by side with him in popularity. His Eb ophicliede playing in the street 123 rated up to that of his brother on the Eb bugle, while his clarinet playing was superb. Here also was heard John Bartlett with his ' ' Cock Trumpet." a valve instrument made especially for him. He was simply splendid in an orchestra for dancing, as his short, decisive, j-et smooth staccatos, with easy flowing, almost gliding fine toned passages, and wonderful tonguing, not too prominent, took the dancers off their feet, as in their keen appreciation, they cut ''pigeon win^s,'' or marched with martial tread to the fine music of the orchestra of the Boston Brigade Band. The author may perhaps be pardoned for stating, that on several occasions he played as prompter with the Kendall brothers, in their fine quadrille band, with Weinz first violin and Sam Ames as bass. So he can testify to the furore these celebrated performers created here at such times. The orchestra of the Woburn Marion Band, with the noted Adam Kurek first violin, was almost constantly emplo5^ed, with others of the day. Here marched and danced many of Woburn's best citizens and ladies now passed away. But ever}- hall has its day, and the Central House hall has long ceased to echo to terpsichorean strains, or the merry feet of the dancers. The important view . shown by the plate, otherwise forever lost to the citizens of Woburn, gives an accurate representation of that part of the Marshall Fowle Tavern estate, which was on the opposite side of Main street, as it appeared sixty years ago, and later, together with the entire 124 distance from present Union street, to where the First National Bank Building now stands. At the corner of Main and Union streets is seen the old Deacon Fowle House, (now moved back end- ing on Union street,) with its picket fence and two cherry trees in front; next beyond, is the field where horses were turned out for pasturage and exercise; then comes the long barn, where myriads of swallows nested, broadside to the street, and close to the side- walk, with large double doors at each end, into which the country baggage wagons were driven for the night, and where horses were kept; this barn stood where the stores of L,. W. Thompson, Richardson Bros, and Munroe now are; nearly back of this barn was another, on the hill; the top of which can be seen, about where the house formerly the Methodist parsonage now stands ; this, in its last days, having become much decayed, was torn down by the boys, who took the matter into their own hands. Just front of this second barn, at the north corner of present Walnut street, then a mere lane, used for a passage way up Meeting House Hill, and to the barn, was a small walled orchard, containing four apple trees; then came said lane, on the southerly side of which is to be seen the little cottage, then owned by Baldwin, with a picket fence, and two apple trees in front, in which Mr. Josiah Fowle for a long time kept an oyster, candy and refreshment saloon, where children daily bought du/ces , and in which at night, liquors were sold, on the sly, to the bummers. This last building is the place referred 125 to in the poem of "John Flagg and the Imps" in this volume, the north front room being the one where the " Den^' was kept. Next beyond this, is seen the top of an old barn, then standing there, while Mr. Benjamin Wood had a shoe shop close to, not shown in the plate. Mr. John C. Brackett once had a public stable between the cottage and the horse shed, from which he ran a daily four-horse stage to Boston, price of passage, fifty cents each way, time 2 to 2 1-2 hours, but as it would be almost indistinguishable if drawn in, and as the plate is intended to represent an earlier period, it is omitted. Then comes in the distance, finishing the view, the once noted hostelry, "Wood's Tavern," kept by Mr. Benjamin Wood, 2d, with its horse shed on the north side, in which was exhibited in 18 17, the first elephant ever seen in Woburn, admission ninepence. The Post office, for a time, was in the north end, the sign ' ' Post office ' ' being over the door, as shown in the plate; while at the south-west corner, at the street, stood a tall sign post, with a swinging sign lettered " B. Wood," having a gold ball depending by an iron rod therefrom. Mr. Wood was the third postmaster of Woburn, but Mrs. Wood usually transacted the postal business. By the kindness of Timothy F. Hagerty, Esq., our popular postmaster, I have been furnished with a com- plete list of the postmasters of Woburn Centre, with the dates of their several commissions, which list, now first given to the public, will be very interesting to all. 126 Name of Postmaster Date of Commission. Ichabod Parker, ist, October 3d, 1797. John Wade, 2d, May 6th, 1811. Benjamin Wood, 2d, 3d, February 7, 1816. Bowen Buckman, 4th, April 26, 1830. William Woodberry, 5th, June 6, 1849. A. Elbridge Thompson, 6th, July i, 1853. Nathan Wyman, 7th, May 27, i86i. William T. Grammer, 8th, December 20, 1882. Lawrence Reade, 9th, February 22, 1887. Arthur B. Wyman, loth, January 19, 1891. Timothy F. Hagerty, nth, February 6, 1895. The location of the several post ofl&ces were as follows, viz: — ist Parker, P. M. Parker's Tavern, late Mishawum House, Main st. 2d. Wade, P. M. At store corner of Main and Park streets. 3d. Wood, P. M. In Wood's Tavern, Main st., opp. Wade's store above. 4th. Buckman, P.M. In old Wade store above named. 5th. Woodberry, P. M, In store Main street, opp. E. side of Common. 6th. Thompson, P. M. In old Wade store above named. 7th. Wyman, P. M. In J. W. Hammond's store, Lyceum Hall Building, then in building S. side of Woodberry 's store, then cor. of Main and Wal- nut streets. 127 8th. Grammer. P. M. Corner of Main and Walnut streets. 9th. Reade, P. M. Cor. of Main and Walnut sts., and at cor. of Church Ave. loth. Wyman, P. M. Cor. of Main st. and Church ave., and at Savings Bank Block, nth. Hagerty, P. M. Savings Bank Block, cor. of Pleasant and Abbott sts. Five of the Postmasters are now living, viz: — Woodberry, Grammer, Reade, A. B. Wyman and Hagerty. In this tavern, noted meetings were held; and the bar-room at the south end was a rendezvous for the town gossips, who alternated between there. Wade's store opposite, and Zeb Wyman's at the corner of Main street and present Montvale avenue. The hall in the second story, was a great resort for dancing parties, whose trained uniform step and time, often shook the house, as modern dancing parties do not do. This old tavern occupied in most part, the spot where the First National Bank Building now stands, its shed on the north side extending somewhat on to the present lyj'ceum Hall estate. On the south side was quite a good sized yard. It was also headquarters for military meetings. In a copy of Regimental orders before me, dated Bur- lington, August 28, 1823, Wm. Winn, Col. 2d Regt. ist Brigade, 3d Division, Mass. Militia, ordered the officers , non-commissioned officers and musicians be- 128 longing to that Regiment, to assemble there on Monday, Sept. 15, 1823, at 8 o'clock, a. m., for drilling accord- ing to law, with dark colored coats, and white under- clothes, the musicians with their respective uniforms. This order was signed by William Tidd, Adjutant. The tavern had a two story projection in the rear, the upper part of which with the central front consti- tuted a hall for general purposes. Here the Freedom Lodge of Masons, the first in Woburn, had its lodge room. Previous to the year 1824 Free Masonry in Wo- burn was almost unknown. In that year several citizens, who had taken degrees in the lodges of neighboring towns, feeling that their interests would be best promoted by forming a lodge here, presented a petition, signed by Benjamin B. Richardson and others to the Grand Lodge of Massa- chusetts, at their quarterly communication, March 10, 1824, praying that a charter for a lodge of Masons to be called " Freedom Lodge," be granted. The petition on June 9, 1824, was granted, and William Richardson was appointed the first Worship- ful Master of the lodge. The meetings were held in the hall above named. Mr. Samuel Tidd, a noted singing master, was the first secretary . The lodge was consecrated in the Meeting House, October 21st, of the same year, as will be seen by the followingjnotice, copied from the " Columbian Centi- nel" of October 6, 1824. w .A^'^'^i'^^ W^!^. . ■ : I, CO o c OS H O 3 O > 129 MASONIC. Freedom Lodge in Woburn, will be consecrated, and its officers Installed on Thursdaj^ the 21st day of this month, the services in the Meeting House will commence at ten o'clock, forenoon, after the public ceremonies, the brethren will proceed to the pavilion, at the Locks, to partake of a dinner, to be provided by Mr. Gillis. The Fraternity in the vicinity are respectfully invited to attend. Tickets for the dinner may be had at the bar of Wood's Tavern in Woburn, and at the store of J. Goodwin in Charlestown. It is to be wished the brethern who intend dining as above, would take their tickets as soon as the Mon- day preceding. SamueIv Tidd, Sec'ry." Woburn, October 6, 1824. This lodge was prosperous for many years, but the Morgan excitement, and the anti-masonic feelings at the time were so great, that the lodge thought it not advisable to add to the flame, and for a time discon- tinued its meetings. The Lodge was represented in the Grand Lodge till 1843, when the Charter Jewels and book of records were surrendered, and Freedom Lodge ceased to be. With the departure of Mr. Wood for Boston, the building was turned into four stores below, one being kept by J. W. Hammond, with tenements above; this continued till the erection of the present Bank Block, when it was taken down, and another of Woburn' s old landmarks ceased to exist. It will, no doubt, seem almost incredible to people of today, that only so late as 1835 and later, so im- portant a part of Woburn Centre, now covered with 130 business blocks, should have been as represented by the plate, with only two buildings standing on the entire distance from Union to Walnut street, but the view is historically accurate, and now first shown to modern eyes, but which, in a few short years it would be impossible to reproduce. For the matter relating to the Freedom I^odge of Masons, I am indebted to Mr. Alva S. Wood, whose uncle was landlord of " Wood's Tavern." 131 Mary Buckle's Party. a tai.e of ancient woburn. The settle in the kitchen stood Before the fireplace filled with wood, With four-foot blazing sput'ring logs, High piled on portly iron dogs; The back, high-built, kept off the chill, But shins and toes were roasted, till The settle pushed back near the door Relieved the toes, but chilled the more The shiv'ring shoulders full of pain, Till back the seat was pushed again. The flaming darts of flick 'ring shapes, Chased shadows 'mong the pewter plates That shining stood on dresser shelves, A hiding place for the little elves. And deeped the glow of orange strong Of squashes strung the walls along. The furious northwest wintry blast, Swept o'er the chimney as it passed, And sent its growl like polar bear, Down on the inmates snuggled there. While one could see stars' twinkling light, By gazing up the throat at night. Before the fire some johnny cake On wooden plates was placed to bake, While on a mat, the pussy cat 132 Was dozing, dreaming of the rat That last night 'scaped her savage claws, By scamp'ring 'neath the " chest of drawers." The kettle hanging on the crane, Sang 'mid the smoke a doleful strain, In te^npo with the tick, tack, tock. Of the tall, ancient, brass-faced clock, While Indian pudding, beans and pie, Were baking in brick oven nigh. The tallow candle's feeble light Could scarce compete with flashes bright, That from the fireplace danced and played O'er well-scoured pans, so primly laid On ample shelves, and hung on hooks With almanack and singing-books, The wintry sun had long since set In golden glories, ling 'ring yet To greet the moon's advancing light, Then leaving her to rule at night. But now the scene was being changed, The settle 'gainst the wall was ranged, And three square tables side by side. With snow-white damask well supplied, "Were set with cups and saucers blue. And ancient plates of the same hue. With knives and two-pronged forks of steel, And other things to serve a meal. By country maid, whose healthy face Had ne'er been touched by rouge or paste; She wore a dress of bombazine. While round her neck, gold beads between The dainty folds of flecky lace Danced in and out a brilliant race. The tables set, the cooking done, 133 New candles brought, fresh wood put on, The parlor chairs ranged round the room Next to the wall; the knocker soon Announced the coming of a party, With giggles, shrieks and laughter hearty: They came in pungs from " Hawker's Square," And Woburn Centre sent her share, While " New Bridge Village" and " West Side," With " Button Knd" the rest supplied. The girls wore pumpkin hoods and hoops, The lads had leggins o'er their boots, While all had mittens knit in stripe, Around the wrist of red and white, With yellow ribs put in between While all the rest was blue or green. The cloaks removed, the coats put off Mid stifled giggles, whispered laugh. And sharper sounds heard in between, I^ike stealing kisses, (that would seem By Love's young dream, from cherry lips, Were snatched in stealthly, dainty sips.) The hostess op'ed the " Best Room " door. With pride she eyed the white scrubbed floor, And eagerly the girls and boys, All bubbling o'er with mirthful noise Went in and formed a seated line All round the room, to wait the time. To give the signal to begin The plays they all delighted in. But ne'er a swallow-tail was seen, Nor silken gown of satin sheen, But plain frock coats and jackets blue, Nice bombazines and calico, With calfskin boots and springheel shoes, And home-knit stockings, grays and blues. 134 But all had healthy ruddy faces, Instead of paleness decked with laces. The ample fireplace with brass dogs Was all ablaze with snapping logs, Which sent a genial light and air, To welcome all with farmer's fare. The sperm-oil lamps dispelled the gloom Far more than tallow could have done. The straight backed chairs with seats of flag, The mats made up from many a rag; With silk-worked samplers, stiflBy hung O'er landscape paper round the room. Showed many a winter evening's toil, By candle light, or lamps of oil. Of fingers to industr)' born, Done while the men were shelling corn By raking ears with rasping sound 'Gainst shovel's edge, with cobs around The tub wherein the corn did fall, In outer shed, or corn-loft tall. But see! the Hostess comes and brings A bright tin plate, while out she sings: — "We'll roll the cover. At the call, Be prompt and catch it e'er it fall." The cover's twirled, and " Mary Wright," Is called in tones by no means light; She springs to catch the spinning plate, But finds alas, she came too late. " A forfeit pay! Come choose your judge! For pay you must! we shall not budge!" " Well" she replies, "John, I'll have you To tell me what I've got to do." " Go make a wheelbarrow" out he screams, ' ' With your true-love there, Jacob Eames!" 136 So Jacob sinks down on one knee, She takes a seat the debt to pay. " Hurley Burley" next was played, Where seats for all but one were laid, At call, all jumped new seats to find, So one of course w^as left behind. The cow-bell rings, " Please stop! tis 'time To go to tea, so form a line," The fiddle first, next girl, then boy. And march to the tune of " Soldier's Joy." The fiddle plays, the guests all sing, And round the table form a ring, Each one behind a wooden chair, Till at the word all seated are. The board with beans and ducks was laid, With Indian pudding, marmalade. With chickens, mince and pumpkin pie And greens disposed to please the eye. What can I say ? why need I tell. What each already knows so well ? That songs were sung, that jokes were played. And eyes with love to eyes replied. The line reformed, at fiddle's sound They marched the kitchen's ample round. While soon within the parlor gay. They played the fleeting hours away. ' ' Here we stand all round in a ring. For you to choose while others sing, So choose the one that you love best. And I presume 'twill suit the rest." Old " Copenhagen " next, or " String " Was played, all standing in a ring, Each one the rope was asked to clasp. Each hand in turn got slapped at last. " Come, Philanders, let's be a-marching. 136 For our true loves let's be a-searching, Choose your true love now or never, And be sure you choose no other. Now you've got her, you've got your part, And I am glad with all my heart, Give her a kiss and send her away And tell her you'll call some other day." " Drop the handkerchief" next was played, 'Twas left behind some boy or maid. They next had " Scorn" and " Clapping out," 'Mid screams of laughter, merry shout. Then " Puss in the corner," " Blindraan's buff,' 'T would seem they ne'er could get enough. Then next " Hold fast all I give you. Who's got the button, what say you?" Red apples then were passed around, And for a time a munching sound Was heard with laughter interspersed, While squeaks and titters faintly burst From out each knot of girls and boys, Who busy were with suppressed noise, And nimble fingers picking seed From out the cores, that they might read Their matrimonial fortune's fate. And find each future loving mate, Told by the number of the seeds They picked therefrom, and so their needs Brought oh's and ah's as in the search The counting left some in the lurch. Each girl then threw the parings red. In graceful curls above her head, And watched them settle on the floor. In form of A, E, I or R, For by the letter then formed so. Her future husband's name she'd know, 137 But soon as each his fortune knew, The tumult louder, sharper grew. Till from the burst of heavy sound, This song rang out from all around, ' ' One I love. Two I love, . Three I love I say, Four I love with all my heart, Five I cast away. Six he loves, Seven she loves. Eight they both love. Nine he comes. Ten he tarries. Eleven he courts, Twelve he marries." And so it went from game to game. The object being all the same. To catch some victim (?) in some way, And then their debts in kisses pay. The forfeits which each judge decreed, Were sometimes very odd indeed; 'Twas " measuring tape," a kiss a yard, With outstretched arms before the crowd; " Kiss all the girls " was " Going to Rome;" " Go wish, and snap the chicken bone:" " 'Twas picking cherries with a fair Young lady from a two- round chair;" " You must kneel to the wittiest, Make your bow to the prettiest. And kiss the one that you love best, But don't keep on and kiss the rest;" " Go take a pillow, kneel with Kate, And with her three good kisses take;" 138 With others made with cunning craft To suit the case, provoke a laugh. But time flits by on rapid wings, And turns his hourglass while he sings, " Pleasure is transient," that's the doom. For e'en the best, ends far too soon, And so the clock having struck eleven, The utmost stretch to parties given. The sleds, sleighs, pungs were at the door. And into them the lassies pour With beaux to match, the good-byes said, — 'Neath the bright full moon overhead With jokes and songs, bells' tinkling play, And kiss at parting ends the day. But dreams of games in fairy bowers, And angels, pumpkin pie and flowers, With gilded Cupids, wedding cake, Appear in dreams, till they awake And find th' illusion night has given Is vanished quite, next morn at seven. But this is not all idle dream Of Poet's muse, as it may seem To you, oh reader ! for this story Is but a painted inventory. Made out with verbal brush to show A party sixty years ago. Just as it was, what games they played. How the house looked, just how they lived, And since 'tis true, no two in nature Are just alike in mind or feature, So varied all their talents fall. Not all in one, nor one in all; — Now therefore, mau}^ first impressions, Are only fleeting, trial lessons. 139 So little loves then born, soon died, While deeper ones the night survived, For forfeits paid in playing " string," Sometimes get forged to marriage ring. By Cupid's power of welding hearts Together by his soldering darts. And so these parties are but schools, Where Cupid teaches without rules. And baits his net with games and plays. In modern, as in ancient days. 140 The Haunted Oak. a i^egend of wright's pond, woburn. " Halt man! nor dare approach the spot; The treasure's not for thee, ghost-guarded. UST within the tongue of land formed by the junction of New Boston and Beach streets, in .s!^' Woburn, before Clinton street was laid out' there existed a pond, (now long since filled up,) covering an acre or two of ground, named " Wright's Pond," from Deacon Josiah Wright, who owned the present city Almshouse estate, which then ran up to the pond, and who claimed title to the pond and the tongue of land itself, although his title to i^ was disputed by others who claimed it, too. At the time of which I am writing, there were no buildings within quite a long distance of the spot. This pond was nearly round. It was a favorite resort for the boys in summer, to "go in swimming," and to sail their tiny craft on its quiet waters; while in the winter it was equally well frequented for the purposes of skating, and catching "shiners" as bait -^- 5 141 for pickerel, in fishing through the ice on the greater ponds. Bloodsuckers were there in such numbers, that the boys frequently found them on their legs, when they came out of the water. Musquash were numerous, while in the spring and fall, wild ducks and even wild geese, often made it a resting-place in going north and south on their annual migrations. On the southeast side, from the water's edge to a considerable distance inland, even in the gravelly land, cranberries grew in such abundance, that the vines looked like a thick mat, while in the fall, the ground was red with the great quantities of high colored fruit produced, for which there was not then, as now, a ready sale. The whole locality was a common unfenced ground where cows grazed, and drank from the pond; where boys played and made bonfires; while nobody seemed to fence, or especially care for it as owner. On the southwest side of the pond was a gigantic oak tree, close to the water's edge, with several huge branches springing out of the massive trunk from a common centre, at about ten feet from the ground, forming a terra incognita, into which no eye could gaze from the ground, while from the dark sayings concern- ing it, this tree was held in fear and awe by those who knew its history. Tradition said that beneath this old oak, a robber had buried a large sum of money, and that it was con- cealed under its roots, which sum of money had been 142 obtained by " deeds of darkness," committed by this same robber, whose name no one knew, who buried it here to escape detection, but never returned to take it away; that here, in the dark and gloomy centre of the old oak, into which the sun never shone, a ghost, but whose, no one could tell, had its haunt, constantly by day and by night guarding the treasure, and frightening away by various ghostly contrivances, all who came near the spot, so effectually that no one, either from fear of the ghost, or of the ridicule of the public, had ever dared to dig and ascertain whether or not the story was true; while many were the tales told of the mysterious sights and sounds which various persons had seen or heard, attesting the truth of the old traditions. One story was, that Ichabod Parker, of Reading, the first landlord of the Mishawum House, on or about April I, 1785, while riding past the pond, in the edge of the evening, on his way to Woburn, to negotiate for the purchase of the estate afterwards known as ' ' Bud Parker's Tavern," and later as the "Mishawum House," had stopped at the pond to water his horse, but accidentally approaching the spot where the treasure was buried, had had a thrilling adventure which he never fully divulged, but of which he told enough for the public to know; it was with a ghost, from which he escaped with considerable difficulty; and it was further said, that the Deacon, when he heard of it, went to Parker, and made minute inquiries as to the details, the place where it occurred, also particularly 143 what took place between him and the ghost that evening; while Parker and the public wondered why he was so extremely inquisitive about it, as he was usually not given to taking notice of such things; but the Deacon very wisely kept the reasons to himself. It was even told, that Parker, who afterwards pur- chased of John Fowle, the Mishawum estate, and also bought the ' ' Cleveland Lot ' ' on the northerly side of what is now Middle street, overlooking the pond, had often seen a light dancing over the water, which, on any person approaching, would invariably start in the direction of the oak, while soon the weird, mysterious light would be noticed in the dark cavity formed by the branches, or gliding up and down the huge trunk. Another story was, that Samuel Caldwell, senior, who then boarded at the " L,ewis Reed Place" just above "Hawker's Square" now "Central Square,'' in coming home one night " across lots," from the "East Side," where he had been a courting Esther Johnson, afterwards his wife, heard the chink of money at the tree, while at the same time he saw the ghost, like a ball of fire, rise up out of the pond, and approach him with dreadful cries, as he was passing under the tree, causing Caldwell to flee in terror from the spot. So after that, he took another " cut across the fields " in going a courting; while he found next morning, that a lock of his black hair had been turned gray by his fright, and that his hat looked as if it had been scorched on top. 144 On still another occasion, a boy driving cows to pasture, let them go to the pond to drink. While they were drinking, in wandering round, he happened to go near the tree, when lo, immediately one of the cows became violently agitated, and with a loud bellow, ran out of the water, with her tail up, when the boy perceived with horror, that the ghost was on the cow's back, holding on to her tail, while, as the cow ran by the tree, it glided from her up the trunk, and soon he saw it in the branches; so boy and cows fled in hot haste from the spot. Now tradition said, that the reason why Deacon Wright claimed title to the land so strongly, and why he was so very inquisitive as to what happened between Parker and the ghost was, thai before Parker met with his adventure, the Deacon had had a still more startling experience with the same unearthy character. According to the story, the ghost appeared to Wright in a dream, and requested him to come at midnight of a certain day, to the old oak, when and where he would communicate to him something greatly to his advan- tage; but the Deacon being afraid of such uncanny characters, failed to put in an appearance. The very next night, the same request was repeated with like results. On the third night, the ghost hinted that possibly there might be more danger in disobeying the request, than there would in his complying with it; so the Deacon being between two fires, remembering what the ghost had said as to his advantage in attend- ing, and apprehensive that if he did not go, the ghost, 145 who evidently had power over him, might do him a serious injury, like a sensible man, concluded to meet the crisis with firmness. So at night, he put on his great coat, and taking with him his horse-pistol, and a hay-fork, with fear and trembling started out in the darkness alone, to fulfill the engagement, while just as the clock struck twelve, he was under the old oak. The night was dark. Not a sound was heard. The wind moaned sadly through the branches overhead, when suddenly the silence was broken by unearthly screams issuing from the tree, while at the same time he saw two balls of fire apparently glaring at him from the mysterious cavity. The Deacon's hair stood on end, at least as much as it could do so, on account of the resistance of his hat. He poised his pitch-fork ready to defend himself, and examined his pistol only to find that it was not loaded. The perspiration started from every pore, but in an instant, he realized that it was only a great cat owl, disturbed by his coming who had cried out and flown away. Once more silence reigned. Silence which every moment grew more oppressive, till the Deacon fairly jumped up with terror, as the deep solemn " hoo-hoo- hoo-hoo ; hoo-hoo-hoo-hoo ; hoo-hoo ; hoo-hoo ; hoo- hoo" of a huge bull-frog in the water near by, caused the cold shivers to again run up and down his back, till he could realize what it was. Wright, on thinking, then remembered, that in such cases it was said, he must first make his presence known, or the ghost would not appear, and even then, 146 not without his consent. So he put down his pitchfork, folded his hands, looked up into the tree, and said in a solemn quivering voice: — " Oh spirit of the departed, I have come at your bidding. As I am unacquainted with the ways and capabilities of such as you now are, I leave it to you to give me such information as you intimated you wished to, in such manner as your present form may require, and mine can receive. After which, oh spirit, I shall expect to be allowed to retire in peace, and be unmolested in the future. But I must say as a Deacon, that I shall do nothing that my conscience will not approve of. I shall now expect your presence and communications." The Deacon ceased, closed his eyes, and awaited the answer. When he opened them again, a dim blue light appeared in the oak, while a deep sepulchural voice said: " May I now make myself visible? Will your nerves stand the strain of seeing a supernatural being? Can you, a mortal, be steady on witnessing the form of such as I am, if I somewhat veil myself ? Put away your pistol and pitch-fork for they cannot injure me. Keep calm, for I assure you I will do you no harm, so speak and fear not." The Deacon somewhat reassured by the tone of the spirit's voice, and by its assurances of safety, dropped his pistol, braced himself for the ordeal, and faltered out a faint "yes." Soon the dim blue light increased in size and brightness; it moved, and slowly began to descend the tree. As it came down, it grew larger and more luminous, till, when it reached the ground, it 147 it seemed to the frightened Deacon to be a moving pillar of revolving illuminated smoke, which growing smaller and smaller, and nigher and nigher, at last disclosed to the astonished eyes of the trembling man, a human skeleton, partly concealed by a robe of white, dimly seen through the quivering light. The Deacon ' s teeth chattered, and those of the spirit rattled, as it spoke and said:— " Deacon Wright, I am the ghost of your father, who on April 29, 1763, committed suicide by hanging himself to a branch of this oak, for which crime, I am condemned by a Power whom none can resist, to keep guard over the treasure which lies concealed under the roots of this oak, (for the traditions told are true, and the treasure is here, but who put it here I am not at liberty to divulge, ) till you acquire a legal title to this piece of land, pond and tree, without the payment of money therefor, and without the taking of any deed or other written instrument for the same. When that is done by you, or some other proper action is taken by some one else, which I hope you will prevent, by taking the right course yourself, which any good lawyer will tell you of, I shall be released from my weary task, and allowed to depart in peace from this earth, having expiated my sin, by these weary years of suffering. You may then dig up and take away the treasure without fear, for no one then can claim it, as you will own the land. It lies just ten feet due west from the centre of the old oak's trunk, under a great flat stone. But never, no never, can you do it, till you have performed the conditions, and 148 released me from my guardianship over it b}^ so doing. If 5^ou attempt it, before you have done so, I shall be compelled to do my duty, and seize and smother you in the deadly gas which surrounds me. Be diligent and success is yours. If you fail so to do, beware lest you disclose the secret, for instant punishment will follow your so doing. Depart now in peace. Remember what I have told you. You have nothing to fear unless you dis- obey. Ave et Vale. The ghost again became an illuminated pillar of smoke, after which it decreased by degrees till it be- came again the dim blue light it was at first, as it slowly retreated up the trunk of the oak, and disappeared in its mysterious centre. The Deacon went quickly home, and thought over, without sleeping, the mysterious sights and experiences he had seen and felt, till morning. The next day. Deacon Wright consulted lawyer Joseph Bartlett as to whether such a thing could be done. The lawyer informed him, that it could be, by continuing to claim title, using it as owner, and main, taining his right adversely as against all persons, for twenty years, when his title to the premises would be good at law, without the payment of money, or the taking of a written deed therefor. The Deacon proceeded to follow the lawyer's directions. He put a fence and wall across the easterly part of the pond, while for some years he occupied, 149 cultivated, and partly fenced the remainder, but never actually perfected his title to any part, except the strip first fenced in, of the easterly part of the pond, which he retained. So the Deacon failed to see the ghost again, or to obtain the treasure; although the title to it was actually perfected in like manner, by Alvan Wright Manning son of Jonas Manning, who purchased the Almshouse estate, many years after. Tradition says that Wright, having so failed to establish his claim by " adverse possession," a certain man in Woburn, who suddenly acquired riches, in some mysterious manner which no one could account for, was said, (after the facts leaked out,) to have accidently found out Dea. Wright's secret, and there- upon consulted one Andrew Evans, a man who lived in a hut in the Froghole Woods, near Dea. Wright's estate, and had the reputation of being in league with certain powers who knew more about dealing with spirits, than he did, so having found out from him how to exorcise the ghost, he obtained the treasure, and released its guardian from further duty over it. The very next spring, the old oak, which for more than a hundred years, had, without injury, withstood the storms of winter, the tornadoes and lightnings of summer, and the ruthless hand of man, which had, almost from time immemorial, been a shelter for the birds who had safely reared their young in its branches, and which, in its green old age, seemed destined to live for many years more in sturdy health, suddenly, 160 without apparent cause, withered away and died; which was unaccountable to the neighbors; but there were those who knew its history and why it perished. So the mystery which surrounded it was revealed, and the public learned for the first time, the whole story; for it was said, that the old oak had at last yielded up its secret; the ghost, who for so many years had faithfully kept guard over the long buried treasure, had departed, as its occupation was gone; while the gold itself, which for so long had laid in safety under its roots, had been taken away, to mingle again in the muddy financial currents of the world, becoming once more subject to unholy greed and avarice, and an incentive to new crimes. So the old oak itself, in sympathy, went with the rest. 151 A LOVE DITTY. Being a sad, but truthful account, of the most doleful and heart rending condition of an antient young may den of Woburu; together with the means she took, to get rid of her melancholy; and just how she was restored to health and happiness in a remarkable man- ner by her great female skill, exhibited in her diplom- acy with a certain nice young man, also of Woburn, who happened to come within her reach, and who was then and there inveigled by her cunning arts; and still further, how both of them were suddenly shot, while all this was going on; and what happened to them afterwards in consequence. There was once a little maid, Who was lonesome as could be, And the reason why she sighed. Was because no beau had she. 152 So she sat down in her chair, Consolation for to find, And it was not very long, 'Fore a thought came in her mind Quick she rose up from her chair And went down to the store, There of lace and dainty things, She bought a peck or more. Then she went right straight back home. With her bundle in her hand. And her mind chock-full of schemes Which in secret she had planned. So she to her chamber went, Quick she shut and locked the door, While right upon the table's top, She all these things did pour. There with ribbons, silk and lace, Made a witching, dainty cap, By her cunning female skill. Which she, laughing, called a trap. Then she stood before her glass, Where she attitudinized, And twisted round and viewed it, Till she badly strained her eyes. In the night she dreamed of beaux. Who for her hand did tease, And sighing, swore they'd die for her. While begging on their knees. 163 When Phoebus, with his golden train, Scared all her dreams away, His flaming light fell on her trap, Where it in beauty lay. She took and put this dainty cap, Neglige upon her head, So 'twould show her killing curfs Sticking out through lace and thread. So she smiled a modest smile, As she walked the streets around, With her jaunty cap turned up, And her eyes demure cast down. It was not very long before A promising young man, Came walking by, with russet shoes, And cane, and gloves of tan. Quick as a flash, her eyes of blue, lyike a percussion match Were snapped, with all a woman's skill. That nice young man to catch. Like arrows shot from out a bow, Her lightning glances flew. And quick as wink, her female darts Had pierced him through and through. He sighed, and groaned, that nice young man, But yet he felt no pain. For she with smiles did comfort him. Which made him well again. 164 Cupid, sly rogue, was standing by And watching, with a grin He drew his bow, and shooted her. While she was shooting him. She felt the darts of Ve- nus' son, Piercing her through and through; Her cap it wiggled on her head, But his smile it cured her too. Cupid then spoke, and smiling said; " 'Tis necessary pain, Before you love you must be shot. You'll soon be well again." So to love's wiles they did succumb, And melted 'neath its power, He dutifully courted her As her accepted lover. As all such things lead to one end, A wedding cake and ring. And melting down of two in one By the Parson, while they sing: — So this young maid and this young man, Were fused nice together In moulds of broadcloth, silk and lace, And shoes of patent leather. 155 Till finally they made a cage, Queen Anne they called its name, And in it ever after that, She kept him all the same. But that lace cap she set for him, They hung upon a feather, And each one left the arrows there To pin their loves together. Dan Cupid once peeped in and heard A lovely girl, he saw, Say, "Mama, please give me that cap, Which you once set for Pa." \ No, no, my child, that pretty cap. And arrows hanging there, Are sacred to our mar- ried love, Which you now make more dear." ' ' When you have grown to be a miss. Who twenty years can span, You'll make a cap to suit yourself. To catch some nice young man." 156 " But careful be at whom you shoot. Wise set your cap, and plan, You may in shooting, shooted be, So choose a nice young man." 157 Dunham's Pond. Sweet spot of charming lake and wood. Alluring, wild, — Where Nature poured with lavish hand, Her wealth enticing o'er the land, And beauty smiled. Thy banks so shady, cool and green, With mossy bowers, — There birds among the branches played In summer, while their nests they made Midst wildwood flowers. 158 So once wert thou, oh Sylvan lake! Fair Dunham's shore, — When water, forest, all combined To please the senses, charm the mind, Alas! no more. But sigh not! earth is full of such. So be content, — New scenes as beautiful abound. For gems lie scattered all around, 'Twas only lent. To a tired traveler, riding along a dusty, country road in the heat of a summer's day, nothing gives greater pleasure than the sight of a pretty sheet of water, like a mirror, overhung with trees, in a quiet nook of the forest. The swallows, like phantoms, are seen skimming over its surface, in their graceful evolutions after their pre}^; — the kingfisher with his belted coat, darts from some dead bough like an arrow, uttering his rapid chattering notes, resembling the sound of a watchman's rattle, as he speeds in a straight line, to his nest, in a hole of the bank overhung with ferns, on the other side, carrying in his bill, something which he has just caught for his mate, who is patiently sitting on her eggs watching for his coming; the frogs in green livery lazily croak, as they pursue their housekeeping avo- cations in the water, under the lily pads; — myraids of birds, make the surrounding forest a musical bedlam with their different songs; while over and through all, the insects furnish a droning accompanfment to the 169 grand concert; — the air is redolent with sweet scents of the lily, swamp pink, wild rose, and spicy pepper bush, while the whole scene is suggestive of quiet, dreamy, luxurious enjoyment, in Nature's own way, far from the artifical noise, vexations and cares of ordinary humdrum life. Such scenes were more common in Woburn, sixty or more years ago, than now. The cutting off of the forests, gives the sun an opportunity to reach the earth, and exhaust its mois- ture, which used to form the rills, brooks and small ponds of former days, and nourished the multitudes of flowering shrubs, and berry bushes, which adorned their banks. Dunham's Pond, now drained, was one of such beautiful small sheets of water in Woburn, which are growing scarcer every year. It was situated at the heighth of ground, between Main and New Boston sts. , just north of Eaton Avenue, at Central Square, con- taining about eight acres, according to an ancient plan, now extant, and was named after a Mr. Dunham, who owned much land there. In common with all such sheets of water at that time, it was the home of the mink, muskrat, and numerous aquatic birds, while wild pigeons, crows, quail, woodcock and partridges, made their nests in the surrounding forest. Wild geese and ducks in variety staid over here for sometime, in the fall of the year, on their annual migrations. The sides, nearly all round, were fringed with large bushes of the bilberry, loaded 160 down every season with enormous crops of big, spicy berries, while the surrounding hills were blue with the shorter clumps of the high bush blueberry, Kere in berry time, could be heard the chatter and laughter of the girls and boys, with " barks'' tied round their waists, who were picking the rich blue harvest, with an enjoyment superior to the more stilted and formal pleasures of the present day. At noon, these berry pickers, with stained hands, cheeks and lips, could be seen, sitting in a ferny nook, beside the pond, sheltered from the sun, by Nature's dense green umbrella, the air deliciously cool and soft, as it was wafted by the gentle summer breeze, over beds of lilies, clethra, and azalea, bringing with it, that subtle woodland scent, which has long been sought for in vain by makers of perfumery, eating, with an appe- tite unknown to the pale children of a city, their simple but substantial luncheon, washed down by draughts of ice cold, clear water of the spring close by, out of birch bark cups that would hold water, made quickly, by the boys on the spot; while at tea time, these pick- ers could be seen, trudging home, each with a pail or basket, containing from eight to fifteen quarts of great, bright blue, firm fruit, not found in such perfection, in our modern markets, and bunches of long stemmed water lilies, slung over their shoulders. In the fall, when the forests were all aflame with the great masses of crimson, yellow and purple glory; when the swallows, orioles, and other summer frequen- ters of the spot, had departed for their winter homes 151 far to the south; the ducks, loons, geese, and other water fowl, migrating later from the north, took their places, darting in and out of the autumn sunlight, and shadows of the rich colored flowers, foliage and ripen- ing grass at the edges, as thej^ hunted up their prey in the warm Indian summer air. This was the time, when sportsmen frequented Bud . Parker's Tavern, later the Mishawum House, for the purpose of gunning and fishing at this pond, then a celebrated place. Sometimes quite a number would come up together in the Boston & Lowell Mail Stage, or in the Canal Packet Boat " Gen. Sullivan," landing at "Corporal Wright's Bridge," on what is now Kilby street, (see plate,) over the deep cut still existing there. The pond was shallow, not over six feet deep in an}' spot, but its edges curved in and out among the bushes, making many a delightful little vista, over- hung with trees. Hornpouts, pickerel, eels and breams abounded, and were caught in great numbers. A method, apparently not known now, called "bobbing for eels," was used . A twisted piece of shoemaker ' s thread , three feet long, with a slim knitting-needle " ganged on" to one end, was strung full of earth-worms, put on length- wise, then this string was doubled up and up, unti la solid bunch of worms was formed; to this was attached a piece of lead, as a sinker, and a fish line, no pole was used, but the bunch was let down over the side of the boat; when the fish bit, their teeth became entangled 162 in the thread, while before they could extricate them, they were in the boat, so there was no baiting of the hook, or taking oiTthe fish by hand, as no hook was used. A certain noted gunner and fisherman of Woburn, who occasional!}^ " c^c/ blue,''' one dark, stormy night in the fall of the year, as he passed by in the road, close to, now called "New Boston street," heard the loud " honk, honk,'' of a flock of wild geese, who to escape the storm, had taken refuge in the pond for the night. He went home, got his gun, loaded it with a heavy charge of large shot, and himself with a heavier one of Medford rum, then went back to the pond, listened in the pitchy darkness, and fired in the direction of the sound made by the geese. By this time, the liquor he had taken, began to operate, so much so, that the heavily loaded gun, in its recoil, kicked him over, so there he lay and went to sleep, partly in the water, but luckily with his head and shoulders on land. When he awoke in the morning, the geese were gone, all but two, killed by his shot, who had drifted ashore, close to him; while he found that in addition, he had captured two large eels during the night, one having crept into each of his pants pockets; with all of which he made his appearance at home in the morning, fully sustaining his character as a successful gunner and fisherman. Tradition says, that one of the early settlers, in gunning at the pond, was, by great success, detained till quite dark, when turning to go, he was sudden!)' 163 confronted by a stalwart Indian, clad in deerskin hunting robe, leggins and moccasins, who, accosting him, requested that he would listen, as he had some- thing important to communicate; the astonished man sat down on a log, when he told him, that the tribe to which he formerly belonged, once occupied the country all around, and were very powerful, but having in- curred the displeasure of the Great Spirit, he sent a messenger, who informed them, that " they would, by dissention, dwindle away and become small weak tribes, when a race of different color, who had much hair on their faces, would appear, and take their lands, while they themselves would disappear; but that finally, this new race would themselves grow weak and few, then the old warriors of their tribe, would be sent back to earth, when with their former weapons, of which they had great stores in a cave in the hill just west of the pond, preserved for the occasion, they would sweep their old enemies from existence, and once more occupy the land in all their former glory." He further said, that "when the time arrived, a huge white bear would suddenly appear from the north, whom none could overtake or kill, and that, at the appointed time, this bear would turn into a once famous Indian Chief, who formerly held sway here, when this great chieftain would lead these ancient braves of the tribe to battle and victory," On parting, he gave him a charm, consisting of a piece of prepared deerskin, with many strange figures painted on it, which the Indian told him to put under 164 his head at night, when he wished to see the cave and weapons, whereupon he would be awakened, conducted by a guide to the cave, and allowed to examine the secret deposit; but he must never attempt it again, as his life would pay the penalty for disobeying; although if he refrained from a second attempt, he might retain the charm, when other secrets of importance would be communicated to him in the future. 'Twas then the settler realized he had been talking with the spirit of a chief of an ancient tribe. Tradition further says, the man sometime after, put this charm under his pillow, when going to bed; at about twelve o'clock, he was awakened by a beauti- ful Indian Squaw, who told him "she was sent to conduct him to the cave, and show him the weapons." He rose, went with her, when on arriving at the hill it opened, disclosing a passage, with a light in the distance. His conductress led him along the narrow way into a huge cave, where he saw grim old Indian warriors, almost without number, going through a war-dance, while their war-whoops almost terrified him out of his senses. After the dance was over, these warriors deposited their weapons, in the cavities from which they had taken them, and disappeared, leaving him alone with his guide in the deserted cavern. She then, after showing him round the cave, whose walls were covered over with hieroglyphics, led him out, waved her hand, saying, "remember the caution," and disappeared. Some months later, he went to bed as usual one 165 night, but was never seen afterwards. His family- made a fruitless search, till told by those to whom he had communicated his secret, that it was useless to look further, for that without doubt, he had again made the signal, again entered the cave, and paid the penalty for so doing. After the matter became public, a diligent search was made for the wonderful charm, but that, too, was gone forever. Nearly two centuries after this, the pond itself disappeared, together with its stories and scenes, ex- cept such as are here preserved, for utility and the pursuit of the almighty dollar, destroy the forests, springs, brooks, and such beauty spots as this. So even the Gem of Woburn had to give way to the march of improvement. The land over which the pond rolled its silver waves, was wanted for cultivation, so on or about the year 1834, a drain was cut by Abel Wyman, John C. Brackett and Dea. Benjamin Wood, then owners of the land, from the pond under the road, now Main street, through land of Abel Wyman, to the Middlesex Canal at Hawker Square, and the life blood of this Gem of the Forest, ran out, leaving a dull un- interesting blank, which never was much cultivated, and which is now grown up to forest; while the ground near its site, where 'the pickers reveled in the rich harvest of berries, is being cut up into streets and houselots. Sic transit gloria mundi. 166 A Tale of Lake Innitou. HE Horn Pond House, in the days of its glory, was known far and near as a place of fashion- able resort. Its charming situation, the lovely lake at its feet, with its island on which was a bowling alley and restaurant; the mountains surrounding it; the famous Middlesex Canal, then in full tide of success, with its three double sets of locks, just at this point, through which were constantly passing numerous boats and rafts of logs, with the passenger boat " Gen. Sullivan," all combined to ren- der it a gem of attraction. The hotel had, at that time, many boats at its wharf, and accidents had occurred by their unskillful use. 167 The incident, told below, was more effectual to stop such carelessness, than any which had preceded it. The two lads mentioned, consisted of a 3^oung gentleman named Rice, and the writer, both then students at Warren Academy, who had had practical experience of the dangers of the lake. The physician employed was Dr. Benjamin Cutter of Woburn, 'Twas afternoon of a sultr}' August day, The sun along the breast of Innitou Gilded the tiny smooth topped waves so bright, That each seemed like a bar of burnished gold, Rolling its lazy way o'er silver floor Through beds of lilies to the emerald shore. The dog-day air was dead and motionless As if awaiting passively a change. The sky looked like a heated brazen dish Of copper, through a single hole of which The fiery furnace heat burning behind, Flashed forth too dazzling to be gazed upon. Just at the wharf, two lads scarce sixteen years Of age, were swimming in the placid lake. Between the island and the northern shore, A cat-boat handled unskillfully by a man' Unused to danger of a country lake Lay motionless, with sheet belayed to rail. His eye, not trained to watch, did not perceive The gathering blackness in the western sky. His ear, beguiled by maiden's silvery speech Was deaf to the low mut'ring thunder's roll. The lads well skilled in use of sailing craft. Surveyed the dang'rous scene with anxious gaze, Till on the edge their practised look discerned 168 An advancing line of ruffled water, Showing the coming of a furious squall, " L,et go the sheet! let go the sheet!" the}' screamed; But their weak words were lost in thunder's peal, And rushing wind which struck the sail, And in an instant hurled the inmates Into the bosom of the now angry lake. The overturn, the frantic screams for help Fired the lads to deeds of noble daring. No earthly aid was near save their' s alone. But even their young arms were ready trained To render goodly aid in the times like that; They launched a boat into the seething lake, They shipped the oars, and pulled with force of men. The contest came between the active lads, And the fierce storm-god riding on the wind, The stake for which they rowed was Life or Death. Under their nervous strokes, the boat shivered As it struck the gale and gathering waves "Which threw the foamy crests far o'er their heads, And for a time the shell almost stood still; But slowly, rod by rod, they conquered, till The vict'ry gained at last, the wreck was reached; But did they come, alas! too late to save The struggling inmates of the o'erturned boat? Two ladies were below the waves, the man Was clinging to the rigging safe for then; A lady's head was seen beneath the boat. When quick as flash the boat hook grabbed her dress. While soon the helpless form was safe aboard, And left awhile to grapple for the other. Quick for your life; Oh God! too late, she'd gone! But no, the active hook refused to come Till their united strength brought to the top The last, whom they at first despaired of saving. 169 Their little boat had quite too large a load For such a gale as that; her thwarts were near The water, but they went before the storm, And skill in handling, yet might save their charge; The waves came in, and one must stop and bail To save the craft from sinking 'neath their feet. The tiny boat just as she neared the shore, Went down with all on board: but willing hands Leaped in, and helped the struggling boys to land Their human freight safe on the soft green grass Beneath the trees, where skillful aid and care, In time restored the seeming dead to life. Meanwhile the man was rescued from the wreck, And the sad lesson o'er again was learned; ' ' Never attempt to sail our flawy lakes Unless the boat is in most skillful hands." 170 The Mousall House. ' Too nurses * less undaunted then the rest, ffirst houses ffinish; thus the Girle gane drest \ Johnson's verse, 17th, and i8th, lines. ^H^DWARD CONVERSE enjoys the distinction WM^^ °^ having built the first dwelling house in \Vo- *^^|^burn, as the town was originally constituted; dr% this was on the Aberjona river, in the centre <^ of the present town of Winchester, which house was finished early in the season of 1640, a plate of which will be found in " Legends of Woburn," First Series, page 33. On February 29, 1641, Woburn Centre was selected after considerable opposition, as the site for the new village, and John Mousall, the third of the thirty-two original signers (Edward Johnson and Edward Con- verse being the first two) of the town orders of 1640, late in the fall of 1640 erected one on " Hilly Way," now Montvale Avenue, so to him belongs the credit of having built the first dwelling house within the present limits of the city of Woburn. * Edward Converse and John MousaH. % ■■^i < Mi:::l#|l^l|il! .;,' - V - *vs^v jx fi OS > S c r ID C) S o 00 ^ :§ LO •■^ o u n1 w a! 2 ^ b (U >. c ~— — >! XI 1 V T-1 CI) CD in c O n J". n ^ M X 3 J3 Q rrt V) (/) D D O O I 2 bo (U H Q 171 The plate gives an accurate representation of this second of the two ' ' howses or cradles ' ' in which the infant town was nursed. This house was not made of logs, as might be supposed, in fact, no log cabins were ever known to exist in Woburn, but like Converse's before it, and the First Church and Parsonage after it, had a hewn oak frame, covered with boards; it also had a chimney made of bricks, glass windows, and was finished with imported hardware, while within, it was divided into four low studded rooms, two below, and two half high chambers above, with a little front entry and narrow stairs. All this is not surprising, when it is remembered what strides Charlestown, close to, had then made, having numbers of such houses, lumber for sale, and ships constantly importing material; indeed it was not like starting in a wilderness, far beyond the reach of civilized help, for in this case, it was in reality at their very doors, Woburn being, at the time, an outlying village of Charlestown, with constant communication between, while Converse's saw mill was only two miles away, and another at Menotomy, now Arlington, built as early as 1637. Originally, the old domicile had no projection or shed part, although in later years one must have been added, for such an appendage, appa- rently very old, was attached to it when it was burned. There is good reason for saying, judging from old documents, that when the house was built, the roof was thatched, like those of small English cottages; 172 but that being found unsuitable for the climate here, owing to the dryness of the atmosphere, liability to its catching fire, etc., that shingles were afterwards substi- tuted. This probably was not painted at first, none of them were, though it must have been later, for some of our oldest people remember that it retained in its latest years, marks of having been of a yellow color. In this house, the settlers with their wives had a meeting, the first probably ever held in Woburn, to thank the Lord for prospering their endeavors in found- ing the town and church, and obtaining a meeting- house site on George Bunker's lot, which was on our present common, about where the band stand now is. It was also in this house that the first meetings of the church in Woburn were held, and business done, after their primar}^ organization at Graves' house in Charlestown on Dec. i8, 1640, where they chose Edw. Johnson first town clerk, and made a set of by-laws. This old relic of forefather da3's, was burned on the night of March 5, 1835, it was then unoccupied, and the fire was probably the work of an incendiary. The date of the fire given in the first series of these legends, is incorrect no doubt, that date being 1833. The precise spot where it stood, has long been a mooted question, but recent investigation has placed the matter beyond a doubt; and the author is especially indebted to Miss Susan E. Edgell for valuable and positive information on the subject. On November 3, 181 5, Betsey, wife of Rev. Joseph 173 Chickering died, and was buried in the second Bury- ing Ground, adjoining this Mousall estate. The slab of marble on four granite pillars, covering her grave, still remains, from which the spot can be determined. Where the fence now stands, was for- merly a stonewall. This slab has always been a promi- nent object, attracting public attention up to the present time; it was southerly of and directly in a line with the westerly side of the old building. Several persons now living distinctly remember the nearness of the bouse to the wall. The slab is twelve feet from the present fence, while the southwest corner of the house was five feet north^rl}- from the wall. Another monument fixes the precise spot, more accurately yet. Several of our oldest people remember, that a large lilac bush stood at the southwest corner, and very near it, so near indeed, that there was only just space enough to comfortably squeeze through be- tween it and the corner; that lilac bush is still standing to tell the tale, while its enormous mass of old roots, and dilapidated top, tell with certainty, to those versed in gardening, its extreme old age, for the limit of life to these shrubs is almost fabulously long, being found in great clumps around our oldest New England home- steads, on every hand. Messrs. I^eonard Thompson, Alva S. Wood, Alvah Buckman and Miss Susan E. Edgellall clearly remem- ber the old building and its site. The author, who went to school with some of the above named persons, 174 in the little red school house near by, retains the whole perfectly in his mind. By these two monuments, there to-day, it can be stated with certainty, that the site of the memorable old building, was just in the westerly corner of the little piece of land now fenced in between the second " Burying Grouud " and Montvale Avenue, and not where the house formerly occupied by Mr. George W. Reed now stands, for the land up to and under that house was, within the memory of some now living, used as a garden . Miss Susan E. Edgell, who was a frequent visitor to friends in the house when a girl, and who resided near b}', is positive on the subject. Others, including the author, who were present at the fire, also certifj' to the above location. According to the very interesting article on John Mousall, by Wm. R. Cutter, lyibrarian of the Public Library, in the New England Historical Genealogica Register for 1893, from which I quote below, Mousall was one of the seven male members who constituted the church at its gathering August 14, (24 N. S.) 1642, and afterwards one of its two original deacons till his decease on March 27, 1665. He was also one of the Selectmen of Woburn for 21 years in succession. He left according to the inventory of his estate, two hundred pounds, a pretty good showing in those days. In his will probated April 4, 1665, his speaking of furnishing of the new room, joining to the house of his son John Brooks, shows that another house existed 175 on the premises when the will was made. This was called the Hi)pewell or Brooks house, which then stood easterly of the first one, and on the other side of Mou- sall lane then so called, but now Prospect street. The fact that the original house, also, was at one time called the ' ' Brooks House ' ' has led to a confusion as to where the first one stood, some supposing that the location was to the east of Mousall lane, but such was not the fact, the two existing monuments, the living testimony, and the will determining the site beyond all question. It is fortunate that at this late day, an accurate picture of the old building can be laid before the public, and preserved for future generations. Also that the precise spot where it stood has been determined, and the question of its site settled. Therefore the thanks of the public are due to those persons who have aided the author to preserve these ere it was too late. 176 The ''Sounding Board/' AN ANCIENT DITTY. N olden times, it was customary to have a sound- !ing board, as it was called, suspended over the 'pulpit in the churches, the object of which was to give greater power and resonance to the preacher's voice. This was like an inverted umbrella suspended by the handle, being concave beneath, and hung directly over the ministers head. Many of these were quite large, and very ornamental; but a question arose even then, whether it was an injury or a benefit to the par- son in speaking, or to the people in hearing, so became a source of contention sometimes, as in the present case. The first house of worship of the Baptist society in Woburn. referred to in the following lines shown on page 96 of first series of these I^egends, had one, which was purchased, together with the pulpit, by Mr. George Flagg, when the church was moved, and added to his museum of odd things for which he was famous. The following verses give an account of a contest over it at one time. 177 In Woburii town, in ancient time, A church stood on the green, Devoid of steeple, bell and tower. But inside ranged along the floor. Square " sheep pen pews " were seen. In front, a large old willow grew, Inside, above the pulpit, A sounding board of ample spread. Suspended hung o'er parson's head, With carved work around it. Now this round board was made to catch, The words, the prayers, the cries. Which from the parson's ample chest, Did issue forth to all the rest. And give them greater size. But it so chanced, the parson's voice. Was doubtful, often wheezy. Sometimes 'twas coarse, sometimes too fine, And worse and worse it grew in time, Till hearers grew uneasy. The church a meeting called to see, Where all the trouble laid. The parson's friends said " that the board Distorted all his words they heard, And false impression made." 'Twas therefore moved, they further hear. Before they took a vote. The parson really had not time To get his voice and board in line, Or its effects to note. 178 An old " Grey Beard " of native wit. With answer cute was ready, " Why further hear him, tell us pray? We hear him now a mile away . I'm tired of it already." The meeting laughed, but voted then, To give him further day, But " Grey Beard " said, " to him, 'twas plain, The question would come up again, When all would think his way." It was not long before the voice, Grew worse instead of mending, 'Twas coarser yet, and wheezed much more, While harder still their ears it tore, Till all longed for its ending. A second meeting then was called, To which old " Grey Beard " came, He said the board was all correct. The parson's voice had bad defect. Its sound was still the same. He therefore moved, " the sounding board" Should still remain suspended, While the cracked voice beneath the board, With all the coarse fine words they heard. Removed be, and ended. The meeting then, by rising vote, At once agreed, nays none. The empty space, new parson graced, His words were smooth, and finely placed, To which the board gave tone. 179 This church is now on Hammond Square, And shoes are made therein, The board is gone, the pews are down. Machines to sew go round and round, To the hammer's lively ring. There souls no longer is the theme, But soles instead have sway. The dying find no cheer for gloom, As dyeing clothes takes part the room. Cleansing another way. So goes the world! goodness alone Fails oft to win the day; The choir, the pews must tickle well, The preacher fine his story tell, And fashionably pray. But reader, when you go to church, Keep charity in mind, The choir can't always sing its best. The Parson's human like the rest, Judge tenderly and kind. ISO Traditions of the Knights of St. Crispin of Woburn. " Shoes! mute tell-tales of the man. The understanding of the mind, is made manifest by the under- standing on the feet y THE FIRST SHOEMAKER. The first men roamed naked and barefooted, too, Their delicate skin was scratched and cut through, Till from blacker and rougher, They grew coarser and tougher, Still no one ever thought of clothing or shoe. Mother Eve she was shocked, though she couldn't help smile, At parading around unadorned all the while; So she pulled some big leaves. From off the fig trees, And made her a tunic, which though short, was good style. When Adam first saw it, with a kiss and caress He declared that " surely he could but confess. That though handsome before. This improved her still more," So she made him leaf trowsers to wear with her dress. 181 Now Eve was delighted, but as ev'ry one knows, Fair woman's nice fancy on elegance grows: — So she looked with disgust On their toes in the dust, And said " I made our dresses, please make us some shoes." So Adam knelt down, with large snake skins a few, He found in the garden in looking it through; — Two he put on her feet, Then laced them up neat, This being the first time of making a shoe. Now ever since then, all the women and men, Have worn what Eve started long ages ago. As the fashions she set. Are stylish as yet, For a fanciful dress needs an elegant shoe. The wearing of artificial clothing is one of the distinctive characteristics of man, separating him from all other animals, while by the kind of foot-wear used, we determine his standing in the scale of civilization in the different ages of the world, and relatively, one nation from another; it would, therefore, be not only extremely entertaining, but very instructive to trace the " evolution of the shoe," from its earliest mention in history, down to the dainty productions of our modern workmen of the order of St. Crispin, but such an attempt, though feasible, would not only require a book by itself, but besides be foreign to the scope of the present purpose, therefore only a ver>' short intro- ductory sketch can here be given. 182 The Egyptian sandal was the first known form. It was made of matting, turned up in front, to protect the toes, and secured to the foot by thongs passing over the toes, instep and heel. From this sprung the military article, which had a sort of metal shield often ornamented to protect the shin. The Assyrian was made with a leather or wooden sole, the heel part of which was leather, this also was bound on by thongs," passing over the instep and heel, or by a button or rings to secure it to the toes w'hich were bare. Sometimes they were made of matted rushes, especially the Egyptian which showed finer plaiting, and nicer work as the ages passed by. From these sprang the Roman military form, and the improved civic sandal, with later, the dec- orated Buskin, covering the ankles, both very elabo- rately made and ornamented. Nearly contemporary with the Egyptian sandal, and as some authorities say, even before it, came the Carbatine; this was more universal and simple than the sandal, but though not not so comely, was even more comfortable and practical ,as it covered the whole foot, and was not liable to work loose. It consisted of 183 a single piece of skin or leather, on which the foot was placed; then brought up and laced by thongs passed through holes at the edge. This form is still used in some parts of the world, especially by savage tribes, and even in Italy among the poorer classes. As in old Egyptian, Ass3'rian and Roman days, when the rank or condition of the person was in great measure shown by the cut, weave or ornaments of his sandals or buskins, so in our own ancestors time, and now, foot clothing was and is a sure sign by which all persons express their traits, peculiarities, or position in society. Just notice the feet of people as you go. See the dandy with his feet squeezed into a patent leather or fancy shoe, much too small for him, with his toes pinched up in a fox-nosed box-point, evidently foreign to the shape of his pedal extremities, and all this done for extreme style and to show as small a foot as possible, but he pa3\s the penalty for violating the lavv'S of nature, by raising a crop of corns and bunions, besides putting his feet out of shape. He carries his character and makeup prominently public, to be read by all. See many of the ladies with an equally unsuit- able shoe, while in addition to the evils suffered by the dandy, still worse ones are incurred by them, owing to the high, small heel, which soon wears off on the out- side, squeezing the toes unnaturally down into the already insufficient space afforded them, producing deformities, miser}^ and the necessity of visiting a chiropodist quite often, besides injuring the ankles by the rolling motion, and outward turning of the feet by 184 the uneven wearing of the heels, spoiling the shoe at the same time in running the counters over outwardly, done merely for fashion's sake, and against the plainest common sense. See the people who take a practical view of life, with shoes of sufficient width, and broad low heels, giving the foot proper room, and natural position ; such people walk firnih' and not cringingly. Notice the artisan, the laborer, and others whose vocations require it, having foot-wear easy to their feet. Notice the different kinds of material of which these indispensable articles are made, from the fancy patent leathers, delicate kids, moroccos of queer cuts, some of which can be hardly buttoned or laced up by the wearers at all, down through the calfskins, cowhides, and cloth, light and heavy, sewed and pegged, pointed toes, and some with almost no toes at all, and one can with reasonable certainty, tell the various classes, characters and conditions of the wearers, the light and flippant from the steady going; the solid-from the dudes, and the high-flyers from the learned, merely by these signe-a-pieds , for each carries his character sign on his pedal extremities. It has been said, " that a gentle- man can be told by the state of his linen, and the style of his cravat," and a lady by the condition of her hair, and what ornameiits she wears, but of all signs, the " sign of the shoe " is the best indicator of character. Our native Indians, when the first settlers came here, w^ore a variety of Carbatine, which they called a moccasin. It consisted of a single piece of deerskin, sufficiently large to cover the foot and ankle, to which 185 in cold weather, was added a fringed leggin al:;o made of deerskin. These red men had the art of tanning, or rather cleansing, softening and preserving the skins by the ashes and juices of plants, and by rubbing, so they were the first tanners, curriers, and shoemakers of Woburn. These Carbatines or moccasins were laced up over the feet, with narrow strips of deerskin, put through holes at the sides and toes ; they were ornamented, often very highly, in figures by various dyes, which the Indians knew how to make, by burning designs on them with a hot point, and by working ornaments thereon with colored moose hair, and small porcupine quills, some of them were quite artistic, the squaws being especially dexterous at such work, and made artistic ones for themselves. These Carbatines were even used by some of the first settlers on particular occa- sions, on account of their [lightness and comfort for the feet, while to the Indians they were invaluable, much better for them than the white man's more clumsy foot-wear, because in hunt- ing or in war, their almost noiseless tread in these *' silents " enabled them to approach game or enemies, 186 without being discovered, while on a race or a journey, they were vastly superior to heavy leather shoes. Our Aboriginees in winter, also wore a snow-shoe, which was a light wooden frame, about two feet in length, and one foot broad, nearly in shape like a squash seed, but tapering to a long point behind. This frame was woven thickl}' all over, with very narrow strips of raw hide, to which moccasins were fastened. These snow-shoes being broad, the feet did not sink in the snow while walking, so like water-birds having long toes with membranes between, going lightly over the soft mud, the wearer with them, traveled and pur- sued game over the deep snows, nearly or quite as well as on hard ground. The colonists made common use of the ''Soulier de neige'' adopting the native form, make and materials, which use continued very common here as late as the year 1840, indeed the game oi pelote- de-neige or snowball on snow-shoes, now common among the Indians of Canada, was a favorite one with our Aboriginees, while no doubt our valleys and hill- sides in winter, rang with the whoops and laughter of the braves and pappooses playing this game on snow- shoes, long before our ancestors came here, for the Indians are not the stoics in private life they are represented to be, as it is only in the presence of whites, or of enemies, that they put on the stoical indifference, they so well know how to do. So it seems that the very first shoes manufactured in Woburn, were these Carbatines and snow-shoes. The first foot clothing of civilized life worn by the j*eiiiit*H£^^^^ 187 settlers came from England. It consisted of two patterns, viz: — a brogan style, with flaps to tie up in front, over which in winter were worn leggins, made like a firm knit stocking, coming up to the knees. The other kind was a low cut shoe, of nearly the same pattern, but made of lighter stock, which later, was almost exclusively worn, especially when sviall clothes came into fashion. The low cut shoes sometimes were tied, but oftener fastened with a large bow, or with buckles, frequently made of silver. Both styles were hand sewed, pegged ones being a more modern inven- tion. The woman wore calfskin shoes, with low broad heels, cut and made very much like those for men, to which in winter were often added leggins. These shoes quite early began to give place to those made of kid or morocco. But the settlers, by stern necessity, soon learned to depend upon themselves for what they wore, so accordingly we find, that one of the first things started to supply pressing needs, was tanning and currying leather. Gershom Flagg had such a shop in the edge of the Town Meadows, just north of the " Training Field.'" Another was established by the brothers John and Francis Wyman, at what is now Central Square on the main road, therefore, no doubt, it was not many years before Woburn supplied itself with sufl&cient materials for making boots and shoes, not only for itself, but for market, by home manufacture. With the coming of native leather, came the work- 138 men and skill to make and repair these indispensable articles of dress. This gave rise to the two allied trades of manufacturing leather and shoemaking, which of necessit}^ were the first mechanical industries of any account in Woburn. At first there were no shoe shops. The shoe- makers, like those of some other trades, coopers, tinkers, and repairers generally, went round from house to house, on foot, with their kit and some stock in a bag slung over their backs seeking work ; when found they sat on a chair, or the settle, by the kitchen fire, spread their tools on a box or anything handy, then worked away making and repairing, till the jobs were done, then departed for another place. This method was called ' ' ivhipping the cat, ' ' which has since passed into a cant phrase, signifying going round doing the same thing over and over ; this in turn gave rise to another saying, viz; — " ivhipping the devil round a .s/?^w/>," which means, doing something in some odd or unusual way, which could not be done by a regular method. This "whipping the cat" system was in use for a long time. Gradually, however, as people grew more numerous, skill was acquired, finer shoes, especially for ladies wear were made, while soon shoemaking became the leading manufacturing industry of Woburn. As a stock of lasts, patterns, leather and other materials had to be kept constantly on hand, to suit the various cases and fashions as they came up, and they came up oftener than before, the practice of the 189 best workmen going from house to house was discon- tinued, while soon all the shoemakers worked in their own dwellings, frequently in the kitchen, but oftener in a small room in the shed part, or in a chamber. Gradually the custom grew up of building small shops in the yard, ten to tv\-elve feet square, of which in the year 1798 there were twenty-two, in each of which, from one to five worked on low benches, on women's and misses sewed shoes, while most of the men's boots and shoes were made elsewhere, and bought in Boston, or in Woburn stores, which for a long time kept such goods for sale, till at last a few shops sprung up for custom work in that line. At that time the small bosses frequently cut out stock in a corner of the shop, and worked with the men. John lycathe's grandfather and othersof the earliest makers used to take their shoes to Boston in a small handcart, or in winter on a sled on foot, stand in Faneuil Hall Square, then the recognized place, and sell their goods from out their carts, in the same way as venders in the open air street markets of some parts of Europe do to-day; others did the same thing, selling various productions at the same time b}' their side. These markets came to be held on stated days, and lasted for a long time. In 1837 while there were only four tanneries here, employing seventy-seven hands, the shoe business had so increased as to give work to 383 men, and 320 women in town, besides a large number in the neigh- boring villages, to which work was regularly sent by 190 the Bosses, while even as late as 1850 there were 26 boot and shoe manufactories, many of them large establishments, employing many cutters, drivers and clerks, in addition to the numerous small shops and rooms used by the workmen, while the women were largely called upon to bind and trim the dainty pro- ducts of Woburn's skill and industry; indeed for many years, Woburn shoes were all the go, nothing else suited so well, ranking higher than those made in L,ynn or elsewhere, and well they merited the praise, £or they were all hand sewed, not machine made, fashioned by the best of workmen, while the bosses kept in the front rank of progress. Some of these establish- ments, notablj- those of Samuel S. Richardson, Jona- than Farnsworth, Choate & Flanders, and Nichols, Winn & Co., employed hands, both men and women, even by hundreds ; while of the leather shops at the same time, there were only thirteen. But in 1865 while the boot and shoe industry employed 203 men and 105 women, the leather business had so increased that there were 4 shops for the manufacture of patent and enamelled leather with 58 workmen, and of leather factories there were 21, with 554 hands, or 25 shops and 612 employees. In earlier days the small manufacturers who had only one to three workmen had to eke out a living by a little farming, while many of the hands when busi- ness was dull in the summer, went to the ''Banks" fishing on a " lay;'^ while others worked a haying or harvesting among the farmers. 191 Women's shoes were the only work done for the market in Woburn. These consisted of ''cacks," or infants' shoes, misses' and ladies' wear. The}' were of various kinds. Turns or runrounds, springheels^ welts, heeled welts, and hnitations. In the making of " turns," the only sole used, was tacked on the last, then ''rounded on'' that is, cut close round, a ver}' little larger than the last, and moulded close, the edge was bevelled down quite thin, then a "■ chayineV or cut was made slanting round the sole heel and all, in which holes were made with a curved awl, to get a hold for the stitches, then the upper was ''lasted on,'" that is, put on the last, wrong side out, and held in place by "steel tacks," till sewed; then with a waxed thread, with bristles at the ends, the sole and upper were sewed together, through the holes made with the awl, after which the work was trimmed close and hammered down, the last was taken out, the shoe turned, leaving the sole and upper right side out, relasted, " longsticked down," the edge pared off true with a short keen edged paring knife and pewter fender inserted between the upper and the knife as the work progressed, to prevent the upper from being cut in the operation, the edge was carefully moulded up to the upper, blacked, slicked with a ' ' shoulder stick, ' ' the bottom scraped with a steel scraper, having an edge turned on it with a smooth, pointed steel, or with a piece of glass, which had been broken for the purpose, by means of a notch at the edge made with a file, to give it keen cutting power. 192 then sand-papered, stamped with a little steel die, aj the tack holes, lined with sheepskin or cloth put in with paste, and the work was done. Some of these "runrounds" were extremely light and delicate, weigh- ing only a few ounces, being often made of fancy kids or moroccos, and sometimes of satin or silk. They were at times trimmed with rosettes, and heldjin place by two long ribbons herring-boned around the ankles. The price paid for making "turns," was for misses from 15 to 20 cents per pair, and for women, from 20 to 30 cents, according to the quality, and the skill of the workmen, while four pairs was considered a good days work. Some of these in early days had what were called " <:r(7^^-«^/ " heels two inches high, made of wood covered with white sheepskin glued on. Springheels were lasted, sewed and turned like runrounds, only in sewing the heel part was left loose and unsewed, until the shoe was turned, then a " /z// " was inserted under the loose sole of the heel, with the part of the lift next the shank ''skived'" gradually thinner, then the grain on the outside of the heel, was cut under thinly a quarter of an inch, turned up, a ^' channeV cut beneath for the stitches to settle into, then the heel part, lift and the innersole were sewed together through and through, with a straight awl, after which the grain or flap was turned back in place, and firmly stuck down with channel-wax , leaving no stitches in sight, then the shoe was finished like a " turn," and left on the last till dry. The price paid for making these was for misses' 18 to 25 cents, [93 women's, 28 to 35 cents. Three pairs was considered a good days work. Welts were made as follows: — the innersole was first tacked on the last, grain side in, " molded down" and " rounded on;" a channel was made all round except at the heel, the " upper " was put on right side out and " braced over'' the innersole with stitches, a * ' welt, ' ' which was a thin, narrow, firm strip of leather was tacked on, then the innersole, upper and welt was firmly sewed together, by stitches through the channel and welt, leaving the edge of the welt projecting beyond the upper; then the outersole, of firm oak tanned Balti- more sole leather was tacked on over all, grain side out, molded down with a hammer and rounded on, the grain was cut under and channel made beneath, as in heels of springheels, then the outersole and welt were firmly sewed together with fine stitches wel] '' snapped in,'" the heel was made and sewed spring- heel like, the fine outside stitches on the welt were evened and made prominent by a special tool, then the shoe was finished off as above described for spring- heels. The price paid for making welts was from 42 to 50 cents per pair, two and one half pairs being con- sidered a good day's work. Imitations, so called because made to resemble welts, were constructed like springheels, only the sole was usually thicker, and not beveled at all at the edge, so as to show the full thickness of the sole like a welt. The price was from 35 to 40 cents per pair, three pairs being a good day's work. 194 In finishing welts and imitations, ''hot kiV^ was used in latter days, that is, an iron shoulder-stick, the end of which was heated when '' slickiyig'' the edge, which gave a finer finish to a thick sole. These shoemakers all worked on low seats called " shoe benches," the standing up bench being a later invention. The kit of tools was spread on the open space to the right, while at the back there was an elevated place, with slots to put the knives. This kit of tools consisted of a long knife called a " skiver'^ used to skive off the rough flesh side, to even the stock, and to cut down the stiffenings for the counter or back of the shoe to a fine edge where required, and the lifts for springheels. A stock-knife to cut stock and general rough work. A rounding-on knife to fit the sole to the last, and a paring-off knife to finish the edge, with this last named tool was a pewter fender as before described. At the front of the seat to the right, was a row of little places partitioned off, about five inches square each, one to hold the steel tacks, another for wax to wax the thread; a third to hold tallow used in finishing; a fourth for a sponge to ''wet up'' occasionally, and a fifth as a sort of omnium gatherum, as the shoe- makers called it, for miscellaneous things; while on the larger open space in the centre, were spread a longstick, on one side of which was inserted a fine stone like rubber, made of emery and glue moulded into an oblong shallow hole, this tool being used to rub down the work as it progressed. Two or three shoulder-sticks made of cocoa, palm or logwood, with shoulders of different 195 widths cut with a ''float'' file at the ends, to be used in ''slicking''' the edge in finishing, these shoulders had a small cut or crease at the backside called a ' ' bead' ' to show a raised line on the outer edge of the sole. Some straight and cur\^e point awls in w^ooden handles; a jigger or marker for general purposes; a pair of pincers, or pinchers as usually called; a hammer, a strap to hold the shoe to the leg while sewing, hammer- ing, etc., a bunch of stiff hog's bristles to put on the ends of the thread in sewing; a lapboard on which to skive and prepare stock; a round flat topped lapstoue, on which to hammer stock, crack nuts, etc., some balls of shoe thread in a drawer beneath the seat; two or three lifts technically so called, made of leather, to put under the highest or instep part of the upper in making, to raise it more when needed, a blacking-jug swung at the end of the seat, containing blacking made by putting some iron nails into vinegar, used to black the edges of the soles, completed the usual shoemaker's kit. At the left hand side of the bench was placed a "stuff- box" in which was kept the stock, that is, the outer- soles, innersoles, stiffenings, lifts, welts, etc., all these had to be " wet-up " that is, soaked in the "'shop ttib" the night before, so as to be in proper condition next morning for use. The shoemaker's apron was of sheepskin or denims, and this was spread over the tools on the bench, at the end of the day's work. The shoemakers when inclined to grumble, had a saying, which was in imitation of one in the "Sailor's Philadelphia Catechism," parodied no doubt by some 196 one of the craft, who had been to the West Indies, or on a clipper, and heard the discontented hazed crew growl at over work. " Six days shalt thou labor, and do all thou art able, And on the seventh wet up stock, and rock the cradle." But little pegged work was ever made here, and that was mainly custom boots and shoes for men. Abel Wyman at Hawker's Square for many years made top boots, brogans and lighter work, both sewed and pegged, but none for the general market. John C. Brackett was another manufacturer of men's work, at the corner of Main and Walnut streets; while the Durens at the West Side for years carried on the same business The cutting of stock was for a long time very wasteful, indeed our modern shoe kings would grow rich on what their predecessors lost by carelessness and imperfect methods. The uppers were cut by pasteboard patterns, and not very close at that. These were sent out and bound by women, a part had leather binding cut from sheep- skins, having alternate strips of black and white, the whole skin put up with the uppers, together with thread and the binders themselves cut the skin so as to leave one half the strip black while the other half was white, the first for the outside, the second for the inside next to the white lining, but much the greater part was done with silk galloon. These binders used a little smooth faced stone or piece of lignum vitse, with a 197 small wooden hammer to pat down the seams in the leather binding. For this work the women were paid per pair as follows, viz: — slippers, 5 cents, buskins, Scents, gaiters with hand worked eyelets, 25 to 33 cents; extra work, such as fine morocco goods, satin uppers, and high cuts, commanding high prices, from 25 to 35 cents per pair. Many a woman in those days, materially helped the finances of the family, besides doing her house- work, b)^ her industry in binding shoes. The writer knew of a happy couple with one little daughter, who together earned one dollar and forty cents per day; he being a slow workman, averaged only eighty cents per day, while his wife in addition to her other duties, being quick, added sixty cents more to the treasury, and yet they had five hundred dollars at interest in the bank; but then they only paid twenty-five dollars per year for the rent of their tenement of four rooms. Shoemakers could get boarded for a dollar and seventy- five cents a week, washing included. These workmen were usually small eaters, often taking only ten minutes for a meal. Sole leather was cut in a still more wasteful way. The outer soles, the best part of the side, were cut by la5ang a last on the leather, scratching round it rather carelCvSsly with a jigger, reversing the position of the last each time to save waste, because the heel part was narrower than the ball, then it was cut in strips, and in that condition sent to the workmen to be divided into single soles. The innersoles, with the stock for 198 stiffenings and lifts were simply cut into long strips, or left in large pieces for the shoemakers to cut up at discretion for themselves, the boss sending what he thought was about right for the uppers. The work- men soon found out, that by wetting, stretching over the lapboard, and hammering the leather before cut- ting, they could, and after awhile generally'did, save for themselves quite a surplus, which came to be con- sidered a legitimate perquisite, till the bosses got rolling machines and tin patterns exactly fitting the lasts, and still later dies, to give the requisite amount of leather and no more;so after that the outersoles, inner- soles, stiflTenings and lifts came in bundles just enough for the work. These little shoe shops in a small way, like the little red school-houses were educational institutions, and peculiar to the country, for after work was done evenings in winter at eight o'clock, the slates were brought out and sums done, even to rule of three, cube root, and equations, while some, who went to the " Banks " a fishing in summer and fall, even had their tables of logarithms, and studied navigation. Spelling was a fad, interest and discount common, geography had a prominent place, current topics were discussed, in short, in practical studies many of these shoemakers could not be beaten by the trained scholars of to-day; or when the mood suited, the checker-board or cards were brought out, and for an hour or so, checkers, " old sledge," or " high-low-jack-and the game " held high carnival on a lapboard ; while visiting from 199 shop to shop for these purposes was also very common. Working evenings, by custom commenced Septem- ber 20, and ended March 20, in each year, all the shops complied with this rule, although as the work was done by the piece, no set hours were required. At first as before observed, the little manufacturers worked on the seat with their one, two or three hands, while once a week or so, the boss would go to Boston with his small lot of shoes in a hemp bag, in an open wagon, going over Winter Hill instead of by the turn- pike, to save toll. These men used to put up their horses in Charlestown Square to save another toll in going over the bridge, and get a dinner at Sawyer's cellar in the square, lugging their bags of shoes on their backs, unless a return load of stock or groceries taken in partpay, necessitated riding over. Frequently, to save a little more, two would go together if near neighbors, one furnishing the horse, and the other the wagon paying for the horsekeeping, costing fifteen cents. lyUther Converse and Leonard Thompson went this way for years, others did the same thing, while it was even hinted, that on cold days in winter, these shivering bosses, would sometimes stop at " Betsey Baker's ' ' Inn at Medford, for a three or five cent snifter to keep them warm for the rest of the trip. The profit was from 18 to 25 cents a pair, and fifty pairs a week for eight months in the year, was considered a good bus- iness, as usually it was eked out by a little farming or something else; while to-day a cent profit a pair would make a modern manufacturer rich in a short time. 200 Sometimes loafers would come in, aud take a seat on the '' stuff -box,''' right in the way, so some genius invented a "'pricker'' to do away with this nuisance. This was a stiff piece of whalebone, set under part of the lid of the box, in such a way as to spring at the pulling of a string carried beneath the seat, with the end coming up among the tools, thereby throwing a steel point through a small hole in the cover, far enough to sharply prick the loafer, a posteriori and then disappear from sight. This sharp, though quiet, reminder had the desired effect, not requiring a repetition. Another method of getting rid of a nuisance, was to place a small pail full of water over the door inside, so that when an unwelcome visitor was under it, a string was pulled just at the right time, when the victim was drenched, while the workmen usually scolded the clown of the " shop's crew," for being so careless as to leave the pail up there. Still another method was to stick up a sign "small-pox here," or "closed for re- pairs," which usually kept them off for a short time. These shoemakers were good gunners and fisher- men, who helped to keep the larder of their boarding houses well supplied with game in its season. Even now, to make a fine custom shoe, the old methods and skill are required; but the popular demand for cheaper goods, and the quickness with which they can be put on the market in large quantities, when trade is brisk, by machinery, prevents the profitable employment of hand labor, except in the finer grades for customers who are willing to pay for them. 201 Sharp competition necessitates the making of the cheapest possible boots and shoes, which will look well. To-day the once greatest industr)' of our city, employing more than a thousand of Woburn's skilled men and women, besides large numbers in the neigh- boring towns, has disappeared from our midst, except a few small custom shops, to give place to the production of leather. Our city failed to keep up with the times, while Lynn, Marlboro, Haverhill, and other places, then almost or quite unknown to the trade, by adopt- ing the new methods, have taken our once prominent place in the business; while our leather manufacturers, then few in number, by the opposite course, have made Woburn a prominent centre of the leather industry, both for foreign and domestic markets. The old time trained sailor, at the command ' ' lay aloft ' ' maned the yards of the famous ' ' clippers, ' ' and "made sail," or "close reefed" in a gale, with good nautical skill, but he, with his high training has gone to give place to the more ignorant deck swabber of a modern Atlantic greyhound, propelled by machinery; while the gang-hands of Lynn's shoe factories, like the deck hands of an ocean liner, see machinery do the work, their brothers of old, did better by well trained hands and eyes, contented, for the almighty dollar, to let automatic tools do the fine parts, while they stand by, tend them, and watch the operation. But Woburn's skill is not entirely gone. A few manufacturers, with their trained workmen, show even now, on a small scale, what our city once did in her 202 palmy days, by making the best custom work in the market. The low seat, and the fine hand work are with us yet, although in small amount, but from its intrinsic worth, it is destined to increase in the future, for real merit and excellence are always in demand. As a matter of curiosity and for preservation, a list of old timeshoe manufactories and workmen's shops with their occupants, locally arranged, is appended hereto. WoBURN Centre. John Carroll and Sons, shop in yard opposite Kilby street, on Main. Francis K. Cragin, manufacturer of fine custom work, at old B.urbeen House estate, Main street opp. Church. Munson Johnson occupied same Burbeen estate before Cragin, and worked with others in the rear of house. Burke & Mundy, large manufacturers in old First Baptist Church Building on Hammond Square, Main street. Best quality of work, 50 hands. Dea.^ohn Tidd & Son, large factory, 50 to 100 workmen, Main street opp. Franklin. Women's fine shoes for market, in and out of town. Choate^ & Flanders, afterwards John Flanders alone, large business, 100 to 200 hands, large 2 story shop, Main street, opposite Franklin, work in and out of town, fine goods b- O CO Ul 203 Daniel J. lycslie, shop on south side of Church street. Benjamin F. Wyer, shop north side of Franklin street, employed many hands on best quality work. Artemas Reed, Wyer's next neighbor, another maker of ladies' fine hand work. Richard M. Gage, on opposite side of Franklin street, maker there for many years. Marshall Tidd, neighbor to Gage, fine work. Parker E. Bancroft, now and for many years a large manufacturer of choice hand work for the market, large shop on Franklin, corner of Centre street. John C. Brackett, large factory corner Main and Walnut streets 50 years ago, over his stable, also once had a shop corner Pleasant and Court streets. Samuel S. Richardson, one of the largest manu- facturers here 60 years ago, large factory corner Main and Warren streets, employing hundreds of men and women in Woburn and adjoining towns, went to Marl- boro with work once a week before it was a shoe town, work best. Dennis Buckman 50 years ago manufactured shoes on Main street south of common, employed about 50 hands. Ira Buckman' s shop now standing, was on Main street opposite Green, employed quite a number of hands. James D. Taylor, factory 40 years ago, on north side of Canal, back of lyibrary, 30 to 50 workmen on finest work. 204 Samuel Cook, large manufacturer in factory on Main opposite Mann street, 50 to 75 hands, fine goods for market. Cook & Taylor afterwards were in partnership there. Jonathan Farnsworth, 50 years ago, worked the finest imported stock; loo hands. His factory was at old Burbeen Place, Main opposite Church street, finest work known far and near, also one other on Pleasant street at a different time. Samuel Smith 60 years ago had a shop at corner of Pleasant and North Warren streets, (Stearns' Place,) 20 to 30 hands. Benjamin Bosworth, fine work 50 years ago, shop back of Bli Jones estate. Academy Hill, 40 to 60 hands. Dea. Thomas Richardson and Frederick Flint, (Richardson & Flint,) 1835 to 50, large shop with 50 to 75 workmen, where Porter street enters Warren street. Simeon Weymouth employed 25 to 50 hands 50 years ago, at shop on the Joseph Buck Place, W. side of Main street, south of Academy Hill. Jere. Kimball, establishment for fine shoes 50 to 60 years ago, corner of Main and Pond streets, ( Jefferson House,) 50 to 75 workmen. Luther Wy man's large establishment was on N. side of Salem street, near cemetery, 50 to 60 years ago, 50 to TOO hands. Osgood Nichols, shops on present Dow farm, Montvale Ave. 206 Moses J. Pearsons, shop corner Montvale Avenue and Bow street. Luther Holden, small manufacturer of good work, 6 hands. His shop was on the Stoughton B. Holden Place, Montvale Avenue. John Tay, journeyman's work, shop just north o^ Winchester line. Capt. Josiah Richardson, shop at his homestead, Main street. Benjamin Richardson's shop was on Main street near above, journeyman. Willis Buckman worked as a journeyman in his shop, Main opposite Green street. Luke Tay's shop was on present Lawrence Reade estate. Main street. Capt. John Edgell worked in his shop on Main street, opposite old R.R. depot. Timothy Andrews worked as a journeyman at his house on Main street, opposite Green, and afterwards at the Woburn Highlands Station, where he was station agent for 24 years. Mark Allen manufactured shoes for many years, occupying several different shops. Moses A. Tyler was a large manufacturer of best work with 50 to 75 workmen, Main street near Fowle. Capt. William Reed, shop on Salem street, late occupied by Richard Briggs. Samuel W. Russell worked at shop on Montvale Avenue, near cemetery. 206 Sylvanus Wood had a shop in east end of his homestead, which was the first Parsonage in Woburn, Pleasant street, opposite common. Alfred A. Newhall carried on the business with lO to 15 hands on Canal street. Simeon Weymouth, shop on Charles street. Zachariah Hill occupied one on Pleasant street near Canal. Calno Nelson had a shop on Kilby street, where Jacob Buckman worked. Benjamin Eaton's was on what is now Lake Avenue. Shad Pierce's was on same Avenue. Benjamin Burgess had a shop on north side of Canal, opposite Public L,ibrary. Benjamin H. Ober had one on Canal street. Tappan Eastman's factory was on Pleasant street, now Hart well estate. Cornelius Richardson 60 to 70 years ago, had a shop in rear of his house on the present Grammer estate, Warren street. Benjamin F. Deland's shop was on Warren street, Academy Hill. Jonathan Garland's ditto. Jephtha Caldwell's ditto. Simon Holden had a factory on N. side of Summer street, a few hands. George Wyer's was on Wyer's Court. Seth Wyman was located on Court street. Benjamin Millett had a shop in his L, Court street. 207 William T. and Samuel A. Grammer, (Grammer Brothers, ) had a large factory on Warren St., Academy- Hill. They employed about 50 workmen, and made finest work. Ezra C. Ingalls had a shop corner Winn and Franklin streets. Nathaniel Hutchinson, shop on Hammond Square, on present homestead of J. W. Hammond, fine work. Josiah Fowle's shop was at corner of Main and Walnut streets. Benjamin Wood at one time occupied a building between John C. Brackett's and the Wood Tavern, Main street. Alva S. Wood, shop at First Parsonage Estate, opposite Common. William lycathe, shop at Woburn Centre. Marshall Tidd at one time occupied shop on Pleasant street, at the present Bulfinch Place. Fox had a shop in old L,eathe building, Main street, opposite Common. Jonathan Garland once occupied one at the Stod- dard Place, Main street, south of Academy Hill. Charles Pierce had a factory with several hands at corner of Union and Montvale Avenue. Francis K. Cragin original shop for manufacturing, was on north side of Montvale Avenue. Marshall Tidd once had his shop at the " Ober " Place, Canal street. Oliver Green in what is now the Mechanic's building. Main street, manufactured best goods. 208 Taylor manufactured in large building on the Capt. Martin Place, Pleasant street. William T. Choate at one time had a factory at same place. Frederick Flint's shop for manufacturing was at his homestead on north side of Pleasant street, several hands. Alvan W. Manning had a small factory on east side of Court street. S. T. I^angley occupied one on south side of Academy Hill. Harris Johnson's shop was on east side of Johnson street. Augustus Roundy manufactured at the corner of Main street and Montvale Avenue. C. H. Thwing was located on Academy Hill. Centrai. Square. Thomas Holden had a shoe shop in the old Black House on road to New Bridge, and Col. Leonard Thompson learned the shoemaker's trade of him there, afterwards Nathan Parker carried on the business there till he was killed at the fall of frame of Clapp house, July 14, 1807. Lewis Reed 60 years ago had a shop in his house on E. side of Main street, above Central Square, Samuel Caldwell learned his trade of him and worked there. George Thompson had one in L of house, next south of Reed's. 209 Abel Wyman's custom boot and shoe shop was on west side of Main street, jnst above the square, 60 years ago. He made men's first-class work, three of his sons worked with him, viz: — Austin, Ward and Winthrop on women's wear. Eleazer Poole, shopon Hawker Square, a journey- man with his son. Oliver Wade succeeded Poole, and worked in same shop. William Young's shop was on east side of " swamp road" now L,owell street, previously his house stood on the old Capt. Martin, or Coleman estate near by on Wyman street, where he worked till moved to swamp road. Col. L,eonard Thompson for many years, 60 to 70 years ago, had a shop in L,, where he worked himself and sons as one of Woburn's "shoe bosses." He employed from 2 to 5 hands, and cut out stock in his shop; did what was called a " snug business;" then while for years, he with his neighbor L,uther Converse, another " shoe boss," went to Boston together in an open wagon with shoes for market ; one wagon answered for both to carry shoes, and bring back stock . Joseph Richardson, or "Boss Joe" as familiarly called, was noted for his popular manners. He carried on later a large business for many years in his shop on the east side of the " Swamp road," nearly opposite Col. Thompson's. His roll of employees was large, both in and out of town. 210 Noah Eaton occupied the last named shop later and manufactured for sometime. Joseph Thayer occupied the large northwest chamber of the old Edgell house in which he lived on " Hawker Square," 60 years ago or more. His shop was the place where the "Gingerbread Lotteries," then very common, were usually drawn, tickets i cent each, highest prize 16 sheets. The Clapp house was for many years in part used for a shoe shop, previous to 1855, when it was taken down. Charles A. Wyman occupied the chamber of his Iv of his dwelling opposite, as a shop for several years. Capt. Isaac Richardson used his old Bakery build- ing for such purposes, at the corner of Main and Clin- ton streets, 60 j^ears ago, where his sons lyorenzo and Freeman worked for some years. lyUther and Josiah Converse occupied a large one story building on the west side of Main street opposite above, for a shoe manufactory, employing 4 to 8 hands, later I^uther used the h of his house for his workmen, while later, he built a shop in his yard. John Hardy, Noah Eaton, Hiram Reed, Wm. Page, John N. Ben- nett, Ebenezer Reed, were among his workmen. His work was best quality women's wear. lyUther Converse, his first journeyman's shop was in the old Pearson's house, now standing on Main street, where others worked after him. Samuel Caldwell, who learned his trade of L,ewis Reed, afterwards had a good sized two story shop on 211 the estate, late of A G. Carter, east side of Main street. He had a few hands like the rest, and like them went to Boston in an open wagon. Elijah Wyman, 2d, for many years carried on the business, making fine custom work in his shop opposite Caldwell's. His work was mostly on orders for Boston firms. David J. Pearson's shop was in the yard of his house on Beach street. For many years he, and his sons John T. and William, made best sewed work there . William Jordan had a shoe shop next to him on same street. Daniel Cummings carried on quite a large business at Hawker Square, and later at his new shop on Beach street; his work was first-class. He had many work- men both in and out of town. Junius Richardson, 2d, was another on Beach street; first he used a chamber, and then a shop built in the yard. Asa Holt was burned in that shop by his clothes taking fire. Old Sawyer house, Cleveland Hill, Middle street, had for several years in its L, a shoe shop, many work- ing there. Benjamin F. Wade had a shop in his yard on New Boston street. He was a first-class workman. Jacob Eames's shop was in his L^ on same street, near house of Dea. Benjamin Wood. His work was the best. Jacob Wright, senior, for many years worked in a 212 shop in his yard. This old shop is still standing on Kilby street, at the site of " Corporal Wright's bridge'' on Middlesex Canal; after his death it was used by his son Jacob for a long time. This twelve footer is one of the few original ones left standing in town. Jacob Buckman, father of the late Hon. Bowen Buckman, had his shop in his shed on Kilby street, near that of Jacob Wright. He worked there for many years. Hezekiah Pearsons worked in old Pearson's house nearly opposite the Mishawura estate on Main street. Deacon Josiah Wright had a small shoe shop in his yard on the present Almshouse estate. Alvan W. Manning afterwards worked in it, later it was used as a school-house by his sister, Mary Manning. It is still standing. Andrew Kvans, a noted character, who came of a preaching family, though he was said by some to work for the devil sometimes, occupied a hut in Froghole woods, where he kept a lot of hogs half wild, and made shoes. He lived alone, did his own washing, and ironed his " biled shirts^' on a wheelbarrow. Benjamin Wood at one time occupied one at Central Square. North Woburn. Capt. Stephen Nichols about 70 years ago, did a large business at "New Bridge," employing w^orkmen of both sexes in large numbers, at the place later known 213 as the factory of Nichols, Winn & Co., on west side of Main street. He not only employed Woburnhelp, but sent out work to the neighboring towns. Nichols, Winn & Co. succeeded Capt. Nichols at his old stand, and increased the business. For years the firm name was known far and near. Their work kept large numbers of Woburn's workers, both men and women in employ, while out of town hands received regularly work from this firm. Their goods went everywhere, and were noted for excellence, Cyrus Thompson's shop was at foot of the hill, on E. side of Kim street, Jonathan and Samuel F. his sons, later worked with him. He manufactured fine shoes mostly for the two Faxons in Faneuil Hall Square, Boston; later he became a noted civil engineer in Woburn. Moses Winn's shop was at the corner of Elm and Ward streets. Thomas Poole's was near Rufus Poole's house. William Converse had a separate shop on E. side of Main street. Oliver Richardson's was on Main street, near Horse Car stables. Luke Tidd at one time worked at Baldwin house, "New Bridge Hill." William Nichols's shop was at corner of Elm and Ward streets, about the year 1800. He was a cobbler for the workmen on the Middlesex Canal when it was excavated. 214 Stephen Nichols's first shop was on east side of Main street at Tay place, about the year 1820. Josiah Brown had one on west side of Main street, 1820 to 1825. Thomas Poole had one 70 years ago, on west side of Main street. Josiah Tay's shop was at Arch. Tay place, near ■R.R. crossing, 70 years ago. John Eaton worked in his house, corner of Elm and Ward streets, 70 years ago. Christopher P. Hosmer's was at Fi^er place. Elm street, 70 years ago. Jephthah Munroe had one in yard, on road to Moses Gumming 's tannery, 75 years ago. Larkin lyivingston's was on Severance street, 60 years ago. John O. Page's shop was near by, 35 years since past. Mr. Mason worked in old Arch. Tay house close to bridge, 75 to 80 years ago. Hiram Fisk had one in his barn on West street, 70 years ago. Dennis Buckman worked in h of Perkins' house, near Old Ladies' Home about 1835, after that in one on opposite side of street. Marshall Tidd's shop was in his yard, Ward street, half a century ago. Hervey Walker 60 years ago worked in one on Tidd place. Pearl street. 215 George Poole worked in shop on old Poole place, about 1835. George Poole above named, later had one on W. side of Main street, in Centre. Josiah I^inscott had his shop in house, north side of School street about 1850. Jacob and Josiah Linscott's shop about 1840 was at old Baldwin house. IvOt Eaton worked at old Eaton place, above Centre about 1825. Charles Flagg was located on Elm street, opposite Old Ladies' Home. Frederick W. Flint's shop was near the same spot. South Woburn. Edmund Parker on west side road, corner of Pond street, carried on a large business in a large shop in his j^ard. Charles Choate and Walter Wyman learned the trade of him there, afterwards Choate went into business with him there, before he became a partner of John Flanders on Main street, Woburn Centre. Calvin Richardson, 1830 to 40 was a shoe manu- facturer, with about 20 employees at his shop, about where the Catholic church now stands on Washington street. Joseph and Horatio Symmes at bottom of Black Horse hill, did journey work with a few hands. Dea. Nathan B. Johnson's shop was in his house on Washington street, journeyman's fine work. 216 Jesse Wyman had a small shop opposite last named shop. Munson Johnson & Sons shop was on same street, near school house. Samuel B. White, journeyman, shop on same street opposite Calvin Richardson's. Samuel Symmes, shop on E. side of same street, Richardson's Row. John Eaton, small ditto, opposite above. Jonathan Eaton, a boss with a few hands, on Jos. Stone place, same street. Jesse Richardson, shop on same street, made fine work. Samuel B. Tidd, shop near above, journeyman. Richard Richardson, ditto. Dea. Calvin Richardson, was located on same street, and Samuel S. Richardson learned the trade of him there. Thomas Richardson, father of T. R. of Woburn, had his shop on banks of Aberjona river, on same street. Gilbert Richardson's shop was on Main street, near Woburn line. Lemuel Richardson once had a shop at the old Richardson place on Cross street. Froghole. Samuel Tidd, brother of Dea. John Tidd, factory 217 at the "Running Pump," large business, 50 to 75 workmen, fine work. William Flanders, shop 50 to 60 years ago, on N. side of Salem street, best of work, employed 50 to 75 hands. John and Harrison Flanders, at the Samuel Tidd place, at the " Running Pump," 20 to 40 workmen best market work. John, later was in company with Col. Choate on Main street, w^hile Harrison continued at same place for many years. Luke Tidd's shop was on N. side of Salem street, in yard. He with his son carried on a snug business, and his son Luke R. after him, 15 to 25 hands on best work. Joshua Converse, shop in L of oldjGarrison house on S. side of Salem street, 60 to 85 years ago; Luther Converse, J. P. Converse, Sherman Converse, William Flanders and others w^orked here. Junius Richardson worked with others, in shop on east side of Bow street, journeymen. Junius Richardson 2d, used a chamber of his house on Beach street, opposite Cemetery gate, after- wards a shop built in the yard. Asa Holt w^as burned in the shop by his clothing taking fire. Bartholomew Richardson 2d, had a chamber for a shop in his father's house, corner of Salem and Bow streets. Nathan H. Hyde's manufactory was on Salem street, just opposite, had many hands and did fine work. Joseph Richardson or ' ' Boss Joe ' ' as popularly 218 called, at one time had a factory at the old Tidd place, known as the "Running Pump." East Side. William Totman's large factory was on east side of Central street, manufactured fine grade of hand sewed goods for market, 50 hands. ElishaJ. Mann was with him later. Nathaniel Wade had a workshop on Whittemore place, near E. W. R.R. bridge 50 years ago, employ- ing quite a number of hands, fine hand sewed work. Nathaniel Wade at one time occupied a shop on S. side Montvale Avenue, near Wood's Hill. Asahel P. Buckman's shop was on the E. side of Central street, in L, of house, good workman. Herman Sturtevant had shop on same street, cor- ner Montvale Avenue. Amasa Wyman, ditto. Dea. Jesse and Jesse Converse, Jr., for many years had a shop for manufacture of shoes on Maple street. Elijah Leathe, a fine workmen, had a shop on John Eeathe farm. James Wade, shoe shop for a long time east of Burbank's Mill. Elijah and Amasa Wy man's shop was on Wash- ington street, W. of Mill. Joseph Beers for many years had a shop in E, east of Watering Station. 219 Joseph W. Beers had one beyond on Measures place. Reuben Beers's shop was at his house, Salem St. George Fowle, a fine workman, had a shop on Lynn street. West Side. Jacob Richardson carried on the shoe business with a few hands, 80 years ago in "heater piece," junction of Bedford and Burlington streets. Capt. John Edgell and Moses Winn, father of Col. Moses F. Winn, both learned their trades there. George W. Butters, 45 years ago, had a shop at the Henry Cummings place, Burlington street. John Robbins worked there. Joseph Parker carried on the shoe business at the Oliver H. Parker place, 80 years ago. John Robbins and Sullivan Simonds served their apprenticeships there. Abel Richardson worked as a journeyman in brick house of B. F. Flagg on Burlington street. George Richardson's shop was at KHard place, corner of Bedford and Burlington streets. Amos Bulfinch had a shop on W. side of Cambridge street. Abraham and Samuel R. Duren had a custom boot shop at Durenville for many years; made best work. 220 Nathan Parker, shop on Cambridge street at old Nathan Parker place. J. Addison Parker at Parker shop as above. George W. Butters occupied a shop at the old Fox place, used once by Abijah Thompson as his first tannery. John Robbins once worked there. New Boston Vii.i,age. Samuel I^eathe worked in shop in shed on E. side of New Boston street. Randolph Wyman's shop was on road to Wilming- ton, above village. Jonas Munroe used one on Boutwell place, near Wyman's. Nathan H. Hyde's first shop was on Shedd place, above village. On the Charles O. Ames place, was a shop, 70 to 80 years ago, where Charles, Samuel and Elijah Wyman made shoes. Robert Ames had one on his estate, 60 to 70 years ago. John Tay occupied one at Stephen Richardson's mill, 80 years ago. An old shop where several worked, was in Jacob Ames house, now standing. James Phillips, slipper maker, shop north side of Plain street. 221 Button End. Edward Richardson worked at journey work in a small long shop on Cedar street, opposite old Town Almshouse estate. One fine morning he found his shop tipped up on end, after he had seen angels in the trees the night before. Bartholomew Richardson, 2d, learned his trade there. Major Nichols had a shoe shop on his homestead, many worked there. Barnabas Richardson occupied one near by. Samuel T. Richardson kept a store corner of Washington and Middle streets, on a "/i(?^/