IRLF 
 
 I 
 
 mamm 
 
GIFT OF 
 
XX 
 
 / .jj 
 
YEAR AND A DAY 
 
 IN 
 
 THE EAST; 
 
 OK, 
 
 WANDERINGS OVER LAND AND SEA. 
 
 BY MRS. ELIOT MONTAUBAN. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR 
 
 LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS, 
 
 PATERNOSTER -ROW. 
 
 1846. 
 

 LONDON : 
 
 Printed by A. SPOTTISWOODE, 
 New. Street- Square. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 I. PARIS. MARSEILLES. MALTA - 1 
 
 II. MALTA. ALEXANDRIA. CAIRO - - 15 
 
 III. THE DESERT. SUEZ. RED SEA. BOMBAY 34 
 
 IV. JOURNEY FROM BOMBAY THROUGH GUZZERAT 
 
 AND RAJPOOTANA, TO DELHI - 51 
 
 V. FROM DELHI, THROUGH THE PROTECTED SIKH 
 
 STATES, TO UMBALLA - - - 70 
 
 VI. FROM UMBALLA TO LOODIANAH, THROUGH 
 
 THE PROTECTED SlKH STATES - - 86 
 
 VII. VOYAGE DOWN THE SUTLEJ AND INDUS, 
 
 THROUGH SCINDE TO BOMBAY - 111 
 
 VIII. FROM BOMBAY TO ALEXANDRIA. MALTA TO 
 SOUTHAMPTON. PARIS. MARSEILLES. 
 NAPLES - - 128 
 
 IX. ROME AND FLORENCE - 143 
 
 X. FLORENCE. VENICE. THE TYROL. BA- 
 VARIA - 157 
 XI. AUGSBURG. WURTEMBERG. DARMSTADT. 
 
 FRANKFORT. THE RHINE - 178 
 
 XII. MARIENBERG, NEAR BOPPART ON THE RHINE - 192 
 
 4923U, 
 
YEAR AND A DAY IN THE EAST, 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 PARIS. MARSEILLES. MALTA. 
 
 IN 184-, we commenced our journey from Paris 
 to Marseilles. The railroad passes through a 
 fertile and cultivated country to Orleans. The 
 driver of the malle-poste could hardly dole 
 forth twenty minutes of precious time more re- 
 luctantly than the surly conductor of our Dili- 
 gence, when we stopped the following morning 
 to breakfast at Nevers, a dirty, dismal, ancient 
 town, situated on the right bank of the Loire. 
 The road crosses the river on quitting Nevers 
 by a heavy bridge of twenty arches. At eight 
 in the evening we reached Moulins : it is situated 
 on the Allier, and apparently a busy, cheerful town. 
 
2 MOULINS. LYONS. 
 
 The head-gear of the peasant women is very 
 grotesque and indescribable in shape ; something 
 between a couple of Turkish slippers, fixed to 
 each side of a round crown, and a canoe meta- 
 morphosed into a bonnet. 
 
 In Murray's Guide-book the Hotel d'Allier 
 is described as " very good, and moderate. " To 
 this I can only answer, " De gustibus non est dis- 
 putandum" Moderate it is indeed, save in dirt 
 and fleas, and it abounds in odours vile ; the fare 
 was indifferent, and attendance bad. 
 
 We performed our second night-journey in a 
 small diligence, like a Paris coucou, or rather a 
 sort of square box, in which five grown-up and 
 goodly specimens of man and womankind were 
 tightly packed, as far as Macon. Not having 
 the mesmeric faculty of seeing with the eyes shut, 
 I can give no account of the scenery till we ap- 
 proached the birth-place and summer residence 
 of La Martine, the country surrounding which is 
 flat and well cultivated. 
 
 At half-past 10 A.M. we started for Lyons; 
 the steamer was small and dirty, bearing cargoes 
 of merchandise. The passengers (with the ex- 
 ception of our distinguished selves) were very 
 unprepossessing specimens of their respective na- 
 tions. The scenery on the banks of the Saone is 
 
LYONS. AVIGNON. 3 
 
 not interesting, but improves in the neighbourhood 
 of Lyons: the position of this city on the two 
 great rivers Saone and Rhone is very striking ; 
 but all impressions in its favour are dispelled 
 on entering the narrow dirty streets of the town. 
 We passed one night in the Hotel du Midi, 
 which has nothing but the situation to recommend 
 it. For dirt, dust, and insects, mentionable and 
 unmentionable, it is pre-eminent. 
 
 At four o'clock, on the 4th of August, we 
 started for Avignon, by the steamer. The 
 scenery on the Rhone is very interesting ; it is a 
 noble, bounding river, but its navigation is ren- 
 dered difficult by the rapidity of the current and 
 the shifting sand-banks. Here and there the 
 ruins of an old baronial castle may be seen upon 
 the heights ; but " Old Father Rhine " maintains 
 his superiority in many points. 
 
 The steamer passes the ancient towns of 
 Yienne, Tournon, and Valence, where the sus- 
 pension bridge is one of the handsomest on the 
 Rhone. Pont St. Esprit, with twenty-six arches, 
 is said to be the largest stone bridge in the world. 
 
 "We had only a passing glimpse of Avignon, 
 which we reached at four o'clock. The vast palace, 
 with its gigantic towers and masses of solid 
 masonry, has more the air of a feudal fortress 
 
 B 2 
 
4 AVIGNON. MARSEILLES. 
 
 than a residence of His Sanctity the Pope. Of 
 the wonders and beauties in and near Avignon, 
 not having rested more than an hour there, the 
 illustrious writer of these valuable pages has 
 nothing to relate ; but begs to recommend every 
 traveller to the Hotel de 1'Europe, as possessing 
 all requisite comfort ; it is remarkable for cleanli- 
 ness, good order and arrangement, and excellent 
 attendance ; and the terms of " entertainment for 
 man and beast " are very moderate. 
 
 We started for Marseilles in a machine fit to 
 convey the doomed to Purgatory; a huge un- 
 wieldy diligence, with six wheels. The noise, 
 the rattling, jolting, rumbling, shaking, whirling, 
 and swaying we endured, no words can describe ; 
 manifold are the miseries of such a conveyance. 
 At 7 A. M., on the 5th of August, we reached 
 Marseilles, to the beginning of which celebrated 
 town there seems no end. "We were earnestly 
 advised to take up our abode in the Hotel de 
 Paradis; the fare, accommodation, and charges 
 were moderate, and its vicinity to the Quay con- 
 venient. 
 
 The environs of Marseilles are particularly 
 unattractive ; high stone walls, arid rocks, and 
 whirlwinds of dust in every direction. No ver- 
 dure, not a blade of grass or a flower to refresh 
 
MARSEILLES. MALTA. 5 
 
 the eye. The Prado is the most popular resort 
 in the neighbourhood, having the peculiar recom- 
 mendation of a few trees and a delightful sea 
 breeze. 
 
 St. Pierre is approached by a narrow, rough 
 road, with high walls of sun-burnt bricks on 
 either side, and a fine view may be enjoyed from 
 the Consul's chateau. 
 
 After a few days' rest, we quitted our celestial 
 abode at Marseilles for a good cabin in the 
 steamer. 
 
 There were about twenty passengers on board 
 the fine vessel which conveyed us to Malta; a 
 few French, and many English: among the 
 latter, a young officer, who, at the advanced age 
 of twenty-one, informed us " he had lived to be 
 weary of every thing on earth; had not piety 
 enough to turn his thoughts to heaven, and was 
 utterly blase" He had evidently acquired a con- 
 siderable proficiency in the art of flirtation ; and 
 met with a kindred spirit in a handsome daughter 
 of Eve, homeward bound to Malta; a ruthless 
 destroyer of every h in her mother tongue, but 
 gifted with good looks, which acted as a passport 
 in her favour every where. There was one 
 matronly dame on board, whose vulgarity was 
 such as Bulwer terms " deep scarlet." A loving 
 
 B 3 
 
6 SARDINIA. SICILY. MALTA. 
 
 couple, fresh from " the hymeneal altar ; " and a 
 few, whose " lights and shades of character " were 
 not very striking. These various members of the 
 human family were well accommodated in the good 
 
 ship E . "We passed the straits between 
 
 Sardinia and Corsica on the second day of our 
 vogage : the coasts are bold, rocky, and abrupt, 
 but picturesque in appearance. The following 
 day, a coup-d'oeil of Sicily, and the island on 
 which is situated the state prison, were the only 
 sights which enlivened our passage. "We were 
 three days and nights on board, and then anchored 
 in the beautiful harbour of Malta. Of the strife 
 of tongues on landing, the heavy verbal cannonade 
 with which we were greeted by the swarthy boat- 
 men and owners of caleches, words can give but 
 a faint impression. Of that barbarous vehicle, a 
 genuine Maltese caleche, a drawing conveys an 
 inadequate idea; the springs seem to sway ad 
 libitum, and the body to be suspended aloft in 
 " caller" air. In this Purgatorial machine we pro- 
 ceeded to Valetta, a clean, white, bright-looking, 
 handsome town, and obtained apartments not far 
 from the palace. In these quarters our peace 
 was nightly invaded by countless myriads of 
 mosquitoes ; their attacks on strangers are merci- 
 less, but they seem to entertain a feeling of com- 
 
MALTA. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 7 
 
 miseration towards residents, and reserve all their 
 venom for birds of passage. With the dawn of 
 day at Yaletta begins a strife among the bells of 
 all the churches far and near, unrivalled, I should 
 think, in any quarter of the globe ; and continues, 
 with very brief intervals of repose, even after 
 the lengthened shades of evening indicate the 
 beauty of rest. If noise is one of the elements of 
 devotion, great indeed must be the piety of the 
 Roman Catholic population, and laudable the 
 energies of the bell-ringers, who seem to defy all 
 weakness of the flesh. The churches at Yaletta 
 are more remarkable for their solidity than the 
 beauty of their architecture ; and the interior, 
 even of St. John's, the most celebrated in the 
 island, much lauded in guide books, and reverently 
 contemplated by admiring natives, has compara- 
 tively little to attract any traveller whose taste 
 for the sublime and beautiful has been cultivated 
 and refined at Rome. Some of the ancient 
 palaces of the Knights Templar are superb ; the 
 masonry seems of such gigantic strength as to 
 baffle all the destructive efforts of human genius, 
 and even the great spoiler, Time. Some of these 
 magnificent buildings are now converted into bar- 
 racks for officers and men of the regiments succes- 
 sively stationed at Malta ; the rest are variously 
 
 B 4 
 
8 MALTA. PALACE OF THE GRAND MASTERS. 
 
 metamorphosed for public and private use, and very 
 peaceable occupants have succeeded the mailed 
 heroes of olden times. A girdle of ramparts 
 surrounds Valetta, of great strength; and the 
 fortifications have a most redoubtable aspect : the 
 whole island seems as it were in battle array, and 
 wears a menacing look of defiance. 
 
 The residence of the Governor, once the princely 
 abode of the Grand Masters of the celebrated 
 Order, is a spacious and handsome palace, in the 
 Piazza San Giorgio; a fine open space beyond 
 the principal street. The staircase is remarkable 
 for perhaps the lowest stone steps ever built : this 
 arrangement was made to enable the lazy knights 
 of old to mount the long and winding ascent on 
 horseback, and nothing can be better constructed 
 for the accommodation of quadrupeds ; but to two- 
 legged animals it is most fatiguing, from the very 
 lowness of the steps. The handsomest room in 
 the palace is the tapestried chamber, containing 
 some fine specimens of the Gobelins manufacture, 
 illustrative of Scripture subjects. The armoury is 
 admirably arranged : an interesting exhibition to 
 all lovers of the formidable appurtenances of war ; 
 glittering coats of mail, well-worn casques, shields 
 and spears that had evidently borne the brunt of 
 many fearful contests, and deadly weapons of 
 
MALTA. PUBLIC GARDENS. 9 
 
 destruction, gathered from all quarters of the 
 globe ; more than the writer would willingly enu- 
 merate, or the reader desire described. From the 
 flag-staff adjoining the palace, there is a fine view 
 of the islands of Malta and Gozo : nothing can 
 exceed the barrenness of their appearance; no 
 verdant hills and valleys, no rich pasture land, no 
 wealth of flowers, cultivated or wild, and few trees 
 or shrubs to rest the eye, wearied with the intense 
 glare reflected from the white stone buildings and 
 chalky soil. Here and there, at long intervals, an 
 oasis in the desert may be found, but the general 
 aspect is a dreary barrenness. 
 
 The Florian gardens, the evening resort of the 
 " beau monde " at Yaletta, have more the appear- 
 ance of a well-arranged cemetery than a fashion- 
 able promenade ; and the exhibition of flowers is 
 probably unrivalled in poverty. 
 
 The Botanical gardens are still more destitute 
 of such decorations as the name indicates ; and are 
 on the most miniature scale possible: their fragrance 
 is not wasted on the desert air, for none seems to 
 exhale from the few plants to be met with there. 
 One of the most agreeable drives from Yaletta 
 is to St. Antonio, a country residence of the 
 Governor. The house and gardens are small, the 
 latter much neglected ; the vineries yield matchless 
 
 B 5 
 
10 MALTA. QUEEN ADELAIDE'S CHUKCH. 
 
 grapes, especially Muscadelle, excelling in their 
 peculiar richness and fine perfumed flavour any I 
 ever tasted. Pieta and Selima are much patronised 
 by the inhabitants : the former a nice crescent of 
 houses, and the constant resort of bathers of all 
 ages and sizes. For an exhilarating sea-breeze 
 commend me to sweet Selima, another pleasant 
 drive in the environs of Valetta. Among the 
 walks, the Baracca, enlivened by a band of music, 
 seems most a la mode, and possesses, besides this 
 desideratum, an extensive view, and of sweet fresh 
 air as much as the most ardent lover of that 
 element would desire to inhale. 
 
 The Protestant cemetery is a tranquil, and 
 will be a very pretty, resting-place for the dead, 
 when the trees and shrubs, newly planted, have 
 attained their " perfect stature." Queen Adelaide's 
 Church, when completed, will be a very hand- 
 some building. 
 
 Pedestrians in Valetta have a labour, not 
 altogether of love, in the unusually steep ascent 
 and descent of streets almost perpendicular in 
 their construction, with the disagreeable pecu- 
 liarity of paved steps, such as never weary the 
 feet at home, in " old England." 
 
 The Maltese have a very Spanish air, and the 
 costume of the women is peculiarly becoming to 
 
MALTA. PUBLIC LIBRAKIES. 1 1 
 
 the island brunettes, with their roguish sparkling 
 black eyes. The "faldette" of black silk, 
 thrown over the head, and descending to the waist, 
 is worn with a very coquettish air; and, in 
 addition to this, a petticoat of the same material 
 over the dress. The general aspect of the men 
 is very ferocious, of the bandit cast ; something 
 that savours of the stiletto, or other pointed evi- 
 dence of strife and daring. 
 
 There is a fine Government library, open to 
 general subscription, and an excellent Club House, 
 conducted on the most liberal principles. Cafes 
 are plentiful and good, restaurants less nu- 
 merous : the charges at both are very moderate. 
 The Circulating Library, adjoining the Piazza 
 San Giorgio, is the great focus of attraction for 
 newsmongers and time-killers, wholesale and re- 
 tail scandal-mongers, gossips of all stages, in the 
 bud, the blossom, and the fruit. It is the 
 fountain-head of all information, political, critical, 
 nautical, ecclesiastical, historical, and geogra- 
 phical. The supply of food for the mind is 
 sufficient to satisfy even the voracious appetite of 
 the day ; from .the lover of utilitarianism and 
 sound common sense, to the wildest enthusiast, 
 or " romanticist," as Lady Morgan would say, 
 bent on elevating the " moral pyramid " of the 
 
 B 6 
 
12 MALTA. LAZARETTO AND SENATORIO. 
 
 human mind, till the very foundation shakes 
 under the weight of the superstructure. 
 
 The present Governor, his lady and family, are 
 deservedly popular, and exercise the most princely 
 hospitality, combining foreign taste and English 
 plenty : the courtesy and refined good breeding 
 of His Excellency and lady, and the beauty and 
 intelligence of their daughters, give a charm to 
 their intercourse with strangers and residents 
 which is highly and universally appreciated. 
 
 The Lazaretto at Malta is a large building, on 
 a peninsula, which juts out into the small harbour 
 called Quarantine harbour, to the west of Va- 
 letta : an extensive area is enclosed; and opposite 
 the Lazaretto is the Sanatorio, or Health office ; 
 beneath this, the Parlatorio, where, under certain 
 restrictions, communication is permitted with 
 individuals under quarantine on board ship. 
 
 In the Parlatorio are standing shops, to which 
 a variety of specimens of Maltese manufacture 
 are sent for sale: gold ornaments, of every de- 
 scription, beautifully worked ; delicate silver fil- 
 agree, executed with as much skill and taste as 
 at Genoa; rich lace, and the finest mittens of 
 Maltese fabric, millions of which are annually 
 exported. 
 
 Some of the apartments in the Lazaretto are 
 
ST. JOHN'S CHURCH. PROVISIONS. 13 
 
 very lofty and airy: as much furniture as is 
 requisite, during the temporary imprisonment of 
 travellers, can be hired ; and indifferent fare 
 procured from a restaurant within the building. 
 
 The regulations of the establishment are said to 
 be particularly good, and great civility and atten- 
 tion are shown to strangers. 
 
 The houses at Yaletta are all of solid stone, 
 with terraced roofs ; the staircases and floors are 
 of the same material. The lower stories are ap- 
 propriated for shops or dwellings by the people. 
 
 During the invasion of the French every thing 
 of value was plundered, with the exception of the 
 silver gate of St. John's Church ; and this escaped 
 through the ingenuity of the Maltese, who painted 
 it black. 
 
 The island is celebrated for its fine fruit and 
 vegetables. Poultry is good and plentiful; and 
 at times, abundance of wild fowl may be procured. 
 Butter, being chiefly imported from England, is 
 extremely dear ; none that is really good can be 
 obtained under half-a-crown a pound. Goats' 
 milk is generally preferred to that of the cows 
 at Malta, the latter not being very rich. 
 
 Excellent bread a VAnglaise is procurable at 
 Valetta, but that which is commonly used by the 
 islanders is coarse and acid. 
 
14 MALTA. AQUEDUCT/ MONUMENTS. 
 
 Water is supplied by an aqueduct nearly a 
 mile long ; and rain water is carefully preserved, 
 as fresh is frequently scarce. 
 
 The visitor at Malta cannot but feel surprised 
 to observe that handsome monuments are erected 
 to perpetuate the memory of various Governors, 
 while a plain stone alone covers the remains of 
 the Marquis of Hastings, without even the initial 
 letters of his name, once so highly honoured and 
 distinguished. Though a general favourite in the 
 island a man whose character was as noble as 
 his lineage was patrician, not a word is inscribed 
 on the humble slab that marks his last resting 
 place. 
 
15 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 MALTA. ALEXANDRIA. CAIRO. 
 
 FROM Malta we proceeded in a French govern- 
 ment steamer to Syra. The commander of the 
 vessel was a curious contrast in manner to his 
 compatriots in general : frigid as winter at the 
 North pole ; dismal as London in a November 
 fog ; clad in a suit of most impenetrable buckram ; 
 an evident enemy to the social principle, and 
 shunning all interchange of thought with those 
 around him, as if an idea imparted was a diamond 
 lost. A motley company of Germans, Swiss, 
 and French, whose appearance indicated a sove- 
 reign contempt for the cleansing properties of 
 water, were our fellow-passengers. None of the 
 privileged " first class " but ourselves, for whom 
 the fat stewardess reserved her sweetest smiles, 
 hoping, with gracious looks, winning ways (and 
 large donations of hot water), to merit a handsome 
 silvery acknowledgment at parting. 
 
 On the morning of the third day we saw the 
 Morea, and anchored off Syra on the 1st of Sep- 
 
16 SYRA. THE TOWN AND HARBOUR. 
 
 tember. The sea was calm as a lake on a summer's 
 day ; gentle as the breath of a sleeping infant ; of 
 the deepest and most transparent blue ; and the 
 sky a cloudless expanse, of the same matchless 
 tint. 
 
 Boats laden with Oriental fruits surrounded 
 the vessel immediately on our arrival; and the 
 Greek venders and boatmen were as worthy of 
 a residence in Babel as the Maltese who greeted 
 us on our landing at Valetta. The appearance of 
 Syra from the sea is very picturesque ; the town 
 completely covers one conical hill and the rising 
 ground on each side ; the houses are flat-roofed, 
 and look like white marble in the distance. 
 Those, however, whose love of exploring all the 
 novelties of foreign lands triumphed over their 
 fear of being dissolved by the fervent heat of a 
 Mediterranean sun, returned from their inspection 
 of the town with direful complaints of glare, dust 
 and dirt, deafening noise, and all that could 
 quench the ardour of the most adventurous tra- 
 vellers. Every distant vision and dream of beauty 
 vanished "like the morning cloud and the early 
 dew ; " and the reality might have proved a test 
 even to the happy philosophy of Diogenes. 
 
 Several small ships were building when we 
 arrived at Syra, and the harbour looked gay and 
 
SYKA. CANDIA. 17 
 
 lively. The Lazaretto is a neat building as seen 
 from the sea, and the quarantine there lasts only 
 nine days, provided the passengers consent to the 
 following anti- pestilential measures; viz. the 
 immediate dismissal of old, and purchase of new 
 garments, and plunging into a bath without 
 delay. 
 
 We remained a few hours at Syra, and then 
 engaged a passage on board another French go- 
 vernment steamer to Alexandria. Hosts of 
 Arabs and Turks were bound to the same port, 
 some very fine-looking men : one of the most 
 remarkable, who seemed to think the earth scarce 
 worthy the tread of his sacred feet, was an illus- 
 trious luminary of the East, yclept the " Mufti 
 of Mecca ; " a cargo of solid, substantial flesh, suf- 
 ficient to overwhelm a weaker descendant of 
 Adam : this precious burden, enveloped in ample 
 folds of costly cloth, and decorated with goodly 
 furs, was basking in the sunshine from the rising 
 to the setting of that glorious light, and smoking 
 and sleeping the livelong day. A few female 
 slaves were among the passengers ; beauties cast 
 in a mould of the darkest bronze, their charms 
 partially veiled from the inquiring eyes of Eu- 
 ropeans. 
 
 We passed the large island of Candia, belong- 
 
18 CANDIA. ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 ing to the Turks, the day of our departure from 
 Syra ; and the following morning were favoured 
 with brilliant sunshine and a favourable breeze. 
 We saw no land during the second day's pro- 
 gress, and on the morning of the third reached 
 the harbour of Alexandria. The great difficulty, 
 on arriving at the renowned port of Alexandria, 
 is to see it. First, a host of windmills appear, on 
 a long, low sand-bank, the site of the ancient 
 Necropolis. Secondly, a low fort. Thirdly, the 
 palace and harem of the pacha ; and, when you 
 land, you see the town. The harbour has a very 
 animated appearance, filled with ships from all 
 parts of the world. No description could convey 
 a just idea of the fearful noise on landing ; the 
 disturbance at Malta was faint in comparison. 
 Hotel servants, screaming forth the comforts and 
 advantages of their respective houses ; boatmen, 
 donkey drivers, baggage porters, quarrelling and 
 vociferating in every living language ; the most 
 distracting war of words, occasionally rendered 
 more emphatic by a vigorous blow skilfully ad- 
 ministered, for the mutual edification of the bel- 
 ligerent powers. 
 
 Through the dirty, narrow, crowded streets of 
 the bazaar, the traveller is ushered into a large, 
 open, handsome square, in which are the principal 
 
ALEXANDRIA. LEVANTINE LADIES. 19 
 
 hotels, and residences of Consuls of various 
 nations. Several of these have spiral staircases, 
 tastefully constructed, rising above the roof, 
 from which vessels can be distinguished at a 
 great distance. The square is thronged with 
 people, morning and evening. Men of business, 
 monthly mail passengers, curiosity hunters, sight 
 seers, news' collectors, noble, humble, gentle, and 
 simple ; and woman-kind, in every variety of 
 grotesque costume : generally speaking, the latter 
 are more than ugly, hideous in the extreme. The 
 greater number wear a silk or thread net over 
 the bridge of the nose, fastened to each side of 
 the head, and descending, in the shape of a jelly- 
 bag, below the knees. Some, clad in white 
 garments from head to foot, look as if they were 
 shrouded already for the grave. Others, of 
 higher rank, wear graceful flowing draperies of 
 silk; the Levantine ladies, when mounted on 
 donkeys, ride through the streets, in a most 
 extraordinary attitude, sitting astride, holding 
 up their arms, almost to a level with the top of 
 the head, to support the weighty folds of silk 
 that fall over the head and shoulders, descending 
 nearly to the feet. They ride with stirrups, 
 but resign the reins to a servant. 
 
 The dragoman we engaged during our stay 
 
20 ALEXANDRIA. POMPEY'S PILLAK. 
 
 in Alexandria was one of Lord Byron's fa- 
 vourite servants in Greece; and declared that 
 the great poet died in his arms : he was an 
 intelligent, good-looking Albanian, dressed in the 
 picturesque costume of his country. 
 
 "We visited the Pacha's palace, on the sea 
 shore : the interior is very handsome, the rooms 
 lofty, and decorations rich ; containing beautiful 
 specimens of Sevres porcelain, superb damask 
 hangings and ottomans, and a magnificent mosaic 
 table, the gift of His Holiness of the worshipful 
 toe, with the name of Mehemet Ali on a tablet 
 of glittering diamonds. 
 
 On our way from " Pompey's stately Pillar " 
 to the beautiful obelisk called Cleopatra's Needle, 
 we walked through an Arab village, exceeding 
 in abject misery any powers of imagination or 
 description. But men, women, and children, with 
 barely the fragment of a rag of clothing to cover 
 their nakedness, were decked out with every 
 variety of savage ornament. 
 
 Pompey's Pillar is a magnificent column, 
 situated on a little hill, the surrounding country 
 very barren, with the exception of gardens, 
 fertile in luxuriant date trees. An adventurous 
 young lady is said to have written a letter from 
 
ALEXANDRIA. ARSENAL AND DOCKYARD. 21 
 
 the top of the pillar, which was answered by some 
 wag from the bottom of Joseph's Well. 
 
 The bazaars at Alexandria are good, and there 
 are abundant indications of commercial pros- 
 perity. 
 
 Among the social relaxations of the residents, 
 plays, concerts, balls, and gaming tables bear a 
 very prominent part. 
 
 The naval arsenal and dockyard are described 
 as among the most interesting sights of the city ; 
 the former, a magnificent establishment, brought 
 to very great perfection in a short period of time. 
 The dockyard is sufficiently spacious to admit of 
 the erection of vessels of the largest class. 
 
 Towards the old part are the catacombs, which 
 are about the distance of an hour's journey. 
 
 No palanquins are procurable in Alexandria, 
 but carriages may be hired at the hotels, on un- 
 reasonable terms. We visited the garden of a 
 rich Armenian merchant, at a short distance from 
 the town, very tastefully arranged, the date trees 
 burdened with fruit, and the orange and citron 
 trees yielding the sweetest perfume. 
 
 One of the plagues of ancient days yet prevails, 
 myriads of flies, which during the hot season are 
 an unspeakable torment. The natives suffer them 
 to congregate in the corner of their eyes, where a 
 
22 ALEXANDEIA. MAHMOUDIEH CANAL. 
 
 nest is formed, and remains untouched : even chil- 
 dren, following the evil example of their parents, 
 are too indolent to raise a finger to remove them, 
 and the most disgusting sores are generated. 
 Hence blindness prevails to a fearful extent in 
 Egypt : many of the peasants also purposely de- 
 stroy an eye, or otherwise maim themselves, to 
 escape conscription. 
 
 The three days of our sojourn at Alexandria 
 were passed at the British Hotel, where we had 
 a fine suite of lofty rooms, good attendance, and 
 excellent fare ; it is situated in the square before 
 described, and resorted to by almost all the pas- 
 sengers from India. 
 
 We embarked at an early hour in a tiny steamer 
 on the Mahmoudieh canal ; the superintendent of 
 the Egyptian Transit Company, his handsome 
 wife, two little children, and a Levantine lady in 
 full costume, were among the passengers. 
 
 " The canal of Mahmoudieh was commenced 
 in 1819, and 313,000 individuals were constantly 
 employed for ten months in its construction ; and 
 owing to want of care, bad food, and other causes, 
 23,000 perished during that period. The canal is 
 about forty miles in length, and its width at Alfe 
 is about two hundred feet. It supplies Alexandria 
 with water, and irrigates the land on either side ; 
 
ALFE. THE NILE. BOULAC. 23 
 
 its surface for several months in the year being 
 above the level of the adjacent country." 
 
 We reached Alfe in seven hours : this is dignified 
 with the name of an Arab town, though the mud 
 huts of the natives are such as an English pig 
 would hardly condescend to occupy. The natives 
 themselves look squalid and poverty-stricken, were 
 clothed in rags, but adorned with jewels. The 
 country around Alfe is well cultivated, but not 
 picturesque. At this soi-disant town our sacred 
 persons were transferred to a larger steamer than 
 the snug little (f Jack o' Lantern " in which we 
 took our departure from Alexandria. We found 
 the Nile full to overflowing, and a strong current 
 against us. It is a grand, expansive, glorious river, 
 but possesses the same muddy hue as the classic 
 Tiber. The scenery on the banks is generally 
 without interest : a few villages scattered here and 
 there, now and then an ancient tomb visible, and 
 a few date trees at intervals, looking like long 
 plumeaux. There were no beds in the steamer ; 
 accordingly we slept on the floor of the cabin, 
 passing a very tranquil night, unmolested by 
 mosquitoes. At half-after 1 1 o' clock the following 
 morning, we reached Boulac, the busy shipping 
 suburb of Grand Cairo, which is very pretty as 
 approached from the sea. 
 
24 CAIRO. THE ESBEY KEYAH. 
 
 The appearance of Cairo is exceedingly pic- 
 turesque : domes, towers, and countless minarets, 
 a profusion of green trees, verdant groves and 
 gardens, and an apparently endless variety of build- 
 ings, rising successively towards the citadel. Old 
 Cairo is now little more than a village, but the 
 new city is seven miles in circumference, connected 
 with the suburb of Boulac by a handsome gravelled 
 road : this leads to the Esbey Keyah, or grand 
 square, where there are groves of beautiful syca- 
 mores, numerous palaces and ancient buildings, 
 which, though dilapidated, have still much Oriental 
 beauty. The Esbey Keyah is a very favourite 
 resort for the fashionable and unfashionable re- 
 sidents in Cairo. Hosts of coffee^ drinkers assemble 
 under the refreshing shade of the noble trees, and 
 legions of inveterate smokers profane the sweet 
 breeze of evening with vapours most unblest. 
 Other and more refined pedestrians are contented 
 with a glass of unexciting lemonade. 
 
 The streets of Cairo are winding, dark, narrow, 
 and unpaved; the upper stories of the houses, 
 projecting considerably beyond the lower, meet 
 those of the opposite side at the top. Frame- 
 works of wood, often very richly carved, are sub- 
 stituted for glass windows. Many of the ancient 
 buildings look as if they were only waiting the 
 earliest opportunity to tumble down. 
 
CAIRO. MOSQUES. PALACE. 25 
 
 The city contains more than three hundred 
 mosques, and their lofty minarets have a striking 
 effect. The most celebrated are the El-azhur, 
 or Mosque of Flowers, and the Mosque of 
 Sultan Hassan. The outer gateway of the first 
 leads to a marble-paved court, surrounded by a 
 beautiful colonnade, and the roof is supported 
 by many rows of marble pillars. 
 
 The Pacha's family burial-place is to the south 
 of Grand Cairo ; the cenotaphs and tombs are of 
 the purest white marble, ornamented with Arabic 
 and Persian inscriptions, in gold letters, and the 
 floors are covered with rich Persian carpets. 
 
 The citadel is built on a lofty rock ; the ascent 
 very steep, between high walls, and remarkable 
 for the fearful slaughter of the unfortunate 
 Mamelukes. The palace is a very plain, unpre- 
 tending looking building. The grand hall of 
 audience is paved with large marble slabs, the 
 windows are of plate glass, and the furniture of 
 the side rooms of rich brocade. The drawing- 
 room usually occupied by the Pacha is finely 
 matted, and furnished on three sides with a divan. 
 From the terrace of the palace the view is most 
 extensive and magnificent. 
 
 The famous Well of Joseph (a vizier so named) 
 c 
 
26 CAIRO. JOSEPH'S WELL. 
 
 is cut in the solid rock to a depth of 270 feet, 
 and this the curious take a world of trouble to 
 descend, though the only gratification that awaits 
 them on arriving at the bottom is their proxi- 
 mity to muddy water. Our imaginations being 
 peculiarly vivid, we were contented with picturing 
 this from the top, 
 
 A superb avenue of Mimosa trees leads from 
 Grand Cairo to the Pacha's palace at Shoubra, 
 which is situated in extensive gardens, very 
 delightful in spite of their formality. The 
 alleys are formed of coloured pebbles, embedded 
 in cement, and disposed as mosaics. Flowering 
 shrubs fill the air with fragrance, and lemon, 
 orange, citron, and pomegranate trees, abound. 
 Ibrahim Pacha has charming gardens on Rhoda 
 Island, arranged in the English style, and cul- 
 tivated by a very skilful gardener from Scotland. 
 The sun was setting as we left the gardens, and 
 gilding the pyramids with glorious light. 
 
 We inspected the Cavalry school at Gizeh, 
 which is considered one of the best establishments 
 in Egypt. The palace of a deceased Pacha is 
 appropriated for this institution. The students 
 are under the care of experienced European 
 instructors, besides native professors, and are 
 trained according to the French system. These 
 
CAIRO. MEHEMET ALL 27 
 
 embryo soldiers had any thing but a military 
 air. They were clad in loose, dirty trowsers, 
 some wore boots, others slippers, and some ex- 
 hibited bare feet. 
 
 A school for Infantry is situated at Kanka, 
 also one for Engineers, and there is an Artillery 
 school at Toura, five miles from Cairo. Besides 
 these there are excellent schools for medical, 
 nautical, and agricultural instruction. 
 
 Nota bene. The most intelligent and fleet- 
 footed asses in the world are those that are met 
 with in Egypt ; and though of diminutive ap- 
 pearance, they bear the heaviest burthens with 
 
 great ease. 
 
 Our second drive to Shoubra, for the pre- 
 sentation of a gentleman of our party to Mehemet 
 Ali, was most delightful ; the Syce (or running 
 footman) bearing a flaming torch, illuminating 
 the branches of the beautiful Mimosa trees with 
 vivid light ; the heavens were radiant with bright 
 stars, and the freshness of the night breeze was 
 most reviving after the great heat of the day. 
 
 The Pacha is an enemy to all state, dresses 
 plainly, lives moderately, and sleeps little. He 
 looks old and withered ; very different from the 
 Mehemet Ali exhibited to the public in minia- 
 tures and engravings. No courtiers or noblea 
 c 2 
 
28 CAIRO. MUSEUM. HOTEL. 
 
 were around him during the presentation; only 
 three or four soldiers as guards. 
 
 Almost all the English who pass a few days at 
 Cairo have " special invitations " to visit the pri- 
 vate museum of an English doctor resident there. 
 We were among the privileged, and saw what he 
 firmly believes to be a genuine ring of the 
 gigantic Cheops, who built the first pyramid in 
 Egypt; a similar decoration of King Pharaoh's; 
 also the necklace of the first Egyptian queen, and 
 other invaluable antiquities ; numerous petrifac- 
 tions, fossil shells, &c., in collecting which the 
 worthy doctor has spent much precious time and 
 money. 
 
 We passed eight days at Cairo in the British 
 Hotel, next door to the office of the Transit 
 Company, where we had good rooms, indifferent 
 fare and attendance, at Ss. a-head ; servants and 
 children half price. 
 
 The day before our departure we visited Le 
 Grand Hotel d'Orient, and found it greatly 
 superior to the British Hotel ; the situation 
 delightful, commanding a fine view of the distant 
 pyramids and the gay Esbey Keyah, already 
 described. Nothing could exceed the cleanliness 
 of the apartments; the salon was tastefully fitted 
 up, possessing, among other luxuries, a good 
 
CAIRO. BAZARS. SLAVES. 29 
 
 piano. The charge for board and lodging was 
 the same as at the British Hotel. 
 
 The climate in Egypt seems subject to great 
 transitions ; the mornings and evenings are cold, 
 and the heat of the sun during the day is gene- 
 rally oppressive. 
 
 Cairo is remarkable for its cleanliness: each 
 housekeeper is held responsible that the space in 
 front of his own dwelling shall be swept three 
 times a^-day ; and four hundred public carts are 
 kept to remove all the rubbish there collected. 
 
 The bazars have a rich display of Oriental 
 manufactures ; a variety of most beguiling fancy 
 articles ; glittering chains and purses ; bags of 
 brilliant hue : slippers most elaborately embroi- 
 dered ; scarfs of bewitching design and material ; 
 costly silks, and muslins of the finest fabric. 
 From day-dawn till nightfall the bazars are 
 thronged with crowds of naked negroes, dirty 
 Arabs, fierce Arnouts, lazy Turks, wild Alba- 
 nians, swarms of donkeys, Pariah dogs, screaming 
 children, women quarrelling, and men ditto: the 
 din and confusion are utterly indescribable. 
 
 In driving through part of Old Cairo we saw 
 
 a number of slaves of both sexes exposed for 
 
 sale : not a tearful eye or a melancholy look was 
 
 discernible among the number ; fat, sleek, shining, 
 
 c 3 
 
30 CAIRO. FACTORIES. REVENUE, ETC. 
 
 and greasy, the whole seemed contented and 
 happy. 
 
 The tombs of the khaliffs, situated to the 
 eastward of the city, have magnificent domes, 
 spacious areas, and lofty minarets; many are 
 mouldering into ruin, but beautiful in their decay, 
 and visited with reverence by the Faithful. 
 
 About two dozen factories have been estab- 
 lished in Egypt by the energetic and zealous 
 Pacha, notwithstanding a war of opposition by 
 Turks in office. Among the most useful are the 
 manufactories for cloth, calico, cotton, silk, rope, 
 &c. &c. &c., and the iron foundery, said to be one 
 of the finest in the world. The principal store- 
 houses, factories, &c., are at Boulak. 
 
 The revenue of Egypt in favourable years is 
 about twenty millions of dollars ; at other times 
 fifteen is the extreme. The principal source of the 
 revenue is the land-tax, which is said to amount 
 to nearly a million and a half pounds sterling ; and 
 eight hundred and fifty thousand pounds is pro- 
 duced by the customs, excise, and capitation tax. 
 The Copts are the chief collectors of the revenue. 
 
 Cotton forms a very important part of the 
 commerce of Egypt : though formerly only known 
 as an ornamental shrub, its value was soon 
 learned by the Pacha, and its cultivation con- 
 tinued on a very extensive scale. 
 
CAIRO. GARDENS OF IBRAHIM PACHA. 3l 
 
 The sugar-cane is grown to a considerable ex- 
 tent in Upper Egypt, and found to be very- 
 productive. 
 
 Ibrahim Pacha introduced the olive tree, which 
 has been very successfully cultivated. On re- 
 turning from a voyage to the Morea, he caused 
 the immense mounds of rubbish in the vicinity 
 of Cairo to be removed: some of these, which 
 had accumulated for years, are said to have ex- 
 ceeded seventy feet in height; a space of six 
 square miles was levelled, and covered with olive 
 trees. 
 
 The same enterprising Pacha also introduced 
 the teak and mango trees from India : the former 
 grew rapidly, as in a genial soil; but only one 
 mango tree is said to have survived, in Mehemet 
 Ali's garden at Shoubra. Experiments were fre- 
 quently made also with the coffee plant, but 
 unattended with success. 
 
 Pine-apples thrive in the garden of Ibrahim 
 Pacha on Ehoda Island, which chiefly belongs 
 to His Highness, and is very deserving of a visit. 
 It is opposite Old Cairo, and about a league in 
 circumference. 
 
 In the village of Gizeh, en route to the Pyra- 
 mids, the lovers of the curious may be gratified 
 with a sight of the far-famed ovens for hatching 
 
 c 4 
 
32 CAIRO. OVENS FOR HATCHING CHICKENS. 
 
 chickens. These are described as consisting of 
 " small chambers or cells, arranged on either side 
 of a long passage, into which they open, the door- 
 ways being closed with mats; a multitude of eggs 
 may be observed in different stages of forward- 
 ness, on which a heated atmosphere performs the 
 office of a hen. The chickens, on issuing from 
 the shell, are removed into the passage, which is 
 divided into compartments ; whence, after a few 
 days, they are transferred to cooler quarters. 
 Here many thousand chickens may be seen, not 
 more than a day or two old, chirping, and nestling 
 together. The cells are heated by fires in lower 
 apartments, whence the heat is communicated 
 through tubes in the floor. Chickens are hatched 
 in this manner throughout Egypt; but the 
 Pacha's establishment is capable of hatching a 
 hundred thousand. The time occupied in the 
 process is generally twenty-one days; and the 
 chickens are sold as soon as they are strong 
 enough to live in the natural atmosphere." 
 
 The suffocating heat of these abodes of 
 chickens, in and out of embryo, prevented our 
 inspecting them, much to our regret, and doubt- 
 less to the lasting sorrow of the reader of this 
 remarkable work. 
 
 An unwelcome inundation of the Nile rendered 
 
CAIRO. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 33 
 
 the road to the Pyramids utterly impassable 
 during our sojourn at Grand Cairo ; and great is 
 the loss to the reading and reflecting public of the 
 valuable observations and eloquent descriptions 
 our projected visit would have elicited, had kind 
 fate permitted its accomplishment. 
 
 We were much struck with the appearance 
 of the Pacha's splendid ships: English naval 
 officers, however, are said to be of opinion that, 
 from the haste with which the vessels are con- 
 structed, and the insufficiency of the crews, they 
 are not well adapted to warlike purposes. 
 
 The Pacha has paid particular attention to the 
 important subject of public education, and espe- 
 cially to the training of his troops. Many thou- 
 sand youths receive . food and instruction in the 
 institutions endowed by Mehemet Ali. His 
 school of music has been one of the most success- 
 ful; the Arabs, from all accounts, having a 
 natural taste for the science, have acquired suffi- 
 cient skill to execute very difficult European 
 , compositions. 
 
 c 5 
 
CHAP. III. 
 
 THE DESERT. SUEZ. BED SEA. BOMBAY, 
 
 WE left Cairo in a small desert van, engaging 
 the four places therein for our own accommoda- 
 tion, and fortunately were enabled to secure the 
 services of the best European driver at that time 
 employed by the Transit Company. He curbed 
 the spirit of four wild Arab horses with great 
 skill, and was remarkably attentive and obliging. 
 We arrived at Station No. 2. in two hours and a 
 half, a distance of twenty miles. The throats of 
 three more than half-starved chickens were imme- 
 diately cut, in honour of our arrival, and a scanty 
 supply of bad potatoes boiled ; impenetrable sea- 
 biscuits were substituted for bread, which were 
 only eatable when steeped in hot water. The 
 drinking water was most repulsive in appearance 
 and taste. 
 
 The beds were dirty, and consisted of one 
 mattress over a hard board. Pillows were con- 
 sidered a superfluous luxury ; and some reluct- 
 
THE DESERT. SUEZ. 35 
 
 ance was manifested to indulge us with sheets. 
 No. 2. 3 in addition to stables and kitchen, has four 
 small rooms for refection and sleeping, partly 
 fitted up with divans. 
 
 At seven o'clock the following morning we 
 started for station No. 4., twenty miles distant, 
 and reached it at eleven. We remained at this, 
 the centre station, nearly three hours. It is very 
 superior to the other resting-places in the Desert, 
 and possesses seven small apartments, as neatly 
 arranged as any sleeping-room in the hotel at 
 Cairo ; there are also dining and drawing-rooms. 
 The breakfast consisted of fresh-killed tough 
 chickens and bad water. At half-past one we 
 arrived at the sixth station, twenty miles from 
 No. 4. The beds here were a second edition of 
 those at No. 2., with the addition of bugs in 
 abundance, and swarms of mosquitoes : and the 
 water worse than before, equally offensive to the 
 organs of smell and taste. As usual, skeleton 
 chickens were provided for our repast, to the 
 great discomfort of the inner man. After sleep- 
 ing at No. 6. we re-commenced our journey the 
 following morning. Suez was distant twenty- 
 four miles, and these were accomplished in four 
 hours and a half. 
 
 Only two small trees are to be met with in the 
 
 G 6 
 
36 THE DESERT. MIEAGE. BEDOUINS. 
 
 Desert a space of 84 miles one of which is 
 decorated with, and consecrated to, the rags of 
 the pious pilgrims who cross the sandy and rocky 
 waste over which we passed ; they en route to 
 Mecca, we to a less holy shrine. The tree is 
 thickly covered with pendent fragments of the 
 well-worn garments of countless pilgrims, depo- 
 sited there in memory of their desert journey. 
 
 The only remarkable sights en route are nu- 
 merous skeletons of camels bleaching in the sun, 
 and occasional heaps of stones, covering the 
 remains of the wild warriors of the Desert, who 
 have perished in battle; a few weeds scattered 
 here and there ; barren rocks in the distance, and 
 a vast plain of sand. The mirage was beautiful ; 
 sometimes assuming the appearance of a harbour, 
 at others of a lake, reflecting various objects in the 
 vicinity on its surface. At night the profound 
 and solemn stillness was only broken by the occa- 
 sional sound of the cricket. We encountered a 
 party of armed Bedouins on the third day's journey, 
 a fine-looking set of powerful men : thanks to 
 the Pacha they are no longer seen with dread 
 by the traveller in the Desert. 
 
 The camels that bear the boxes containing the 
 Indian mail, and those that are laden with the 
 baggage of .the .passengers, are never unloaded 
 
THE DESERT. MODE OF TRAVELLING. 37 
 
 between Cairo and Suez ; a short halt at the 
 station houses, and a trifling supply of food, is all 
 their kind masters vouchsafe to these hard-worked 
 animals. 
 
 The horses employed in the transit vans are 
 very badly broken in, sometimes quite ungovern- 
 able, and are evidently over-worked and ill-fed ; 
 small, thin, wretched looking animals, but fiery 
 and fleet-footed : they are purchased at about 
 107. each; and two hundred and fifty were in the 
 stables of the Transit Company when we were at 
 Cairo. They are fed on beans, barley, and chaff, 
 no hay being procurable in Egypt. One hundred 
 camels were in use, and thirty or more vans, for 
 the conveyance of passengers. These are little 
 better than English carts, covered with wax 
 cloth the roughest conveyance over the hardest 
 road in the world. 
 
 Part of the desert track for road, properly 
 speaking, there is none is sandy; the largest 
 portion hard, rocky, and stony. 
 
 The only living animals we saw were the 
 horses and camels belonging to the party of 
 Bedouins we met. Rats are occasionally seen 
 feasting on the carcases of camels that perish by 
 the way ; and the skeletons of these unfortunate 
 
38 THE DESERT. SUEZ. 
 
 animals act as directing posts, and indicate the 
 line of march, to the traveller. 
 
 Of the feathered inhabitants of the air not one 
 crossed our path during the whole journey. The 
 solemn death-like stillness that prevailed during 
 the two nights we passed in the Desert was almost 
 oppressive. 
 
 The mornings and evenings were cold as 
 winter days at home; the air keen, dry, and 
 bracing. The sharpness of the atmosphere ceases 
 about mid-day ; but even in the sunshine it is 
 needful to wear warm clothing* The glare is 
 intense ; and thick green veils, and spectacles of 
 the same colour, are resorted to by all passengers 
 anxious to preserve their eyes from every noxious 
 influence. 
 
 Occasionally travellers may be seen crossing 
 the Desert on dromedaries ; but these and donkey 
 chairs are not now so much in vogue as during 
 the earlier days of the overland journey. 
 
 Of Suez, where we passed one week, awaiting 
 the arrival of the Bombay steamer, any descrip- 
 tion must fall far short of the reality. A few 
 miserable houses crowded together, forming a 
 square ; a narrow bazar, swarming with 
 swarthy natives; and the two inns, rivals in 
 wretchedness of accommodation within and po- 
 
SUEZ. HOTELS. HAKBOUK. 39 
 
 verty of appearance without like a couple of 
 old barns in the last stage of decay. And the 
 water, the bread, the fare in general, for which 
 twelve shillings per diem is paid; in truth every- 
 thing, was superlatively bad. 
 
 Whether approached by land or sea, the appear- 
 ance of Suez is equally uninviting ; surrounded 
 by a vast expanse of sand : not a sign of vegeta- 
 tion far or near. 
 
 The enterprising Pacha is erecting a fine build- 
 ing on the sea-shore, which will be a handsome 
 extensive hotel. At Waghorn & Hill's hotels 
 there are very few bed-rooms ; and the divan of 
 the dining-room is frequently resorted to by such 
 luckless passengers as can obtain no better accom- 
 modation for the night. 
 
 The Christian inhabitants of Suez, not more 
 than forty in number, have a priest of their own r 
 and a place of worship. 
 
 As a port, Suez labours under many disadvan- 
 tages, being situated at the extremity of a narrow 
 sea ; down this the wind blows with great 
 violence for nine months in the year. The 
 steamers anchor at some distance, and wretched 
 boats are used for the conveyance of passengers 
 and luggage from the hotel to the vessel ; they 
 are generally two hours in reaching their desti- 
 
40 SUEZ. THE BED SEA. 
 
 nation, sometimes more when winds and waves 
 are unpropitious. 
 
 The traffic carried on between Suez and Jedda 
 is not very considerable. The former, it is said, 
 was formerly of importance, but the principal 
 buildings are in ruins. 
 
 A good supply of dates, grain, and figs may be 
 seen in the market ; but meat and fish are scarce. 
 Vegetables and fruit cannot be procured nearer 
 than Cairo. Suez is utterly destitute of fresh 
 water, that which is brought from a well two or 
 three miles distant being hardly fit for the use of 
 cattle. 
 
 The surrounding country is barren and desolate 
 to a degree ; little else than a bed of rock and 
 stone, with a slight surface of sand. These are 
 the only comments that are to be met with in the 
 vade mecum descriptions of Suez. 
 
 After passing seven days at Suez we went on 
 board the Bombay mail steamer. It was crowded 
 with much of human and animal life, and count- 
 less things inanimate, and largely supplied with 
 means for mortifying the flesh and deranging the 
 good order and economy of the inner man ; the 
 commander possessing but an infinitesimal por- 
 tion of the milk and honey of human kindness. 
 A dashing young surgeon, for whom music and 
 
BOMBAY MAIL STEAMER. 41 
 
 the sister arts, poetry and painting, had greater 
 charms than the anatomy of the body, or the 
 administration of medicinal herbs. Of Lieu- 
 tenants Nos. 1. and 2., and other naval et ceteras, 
 no mention need be made. The passengers, 
 amounting to double the number lawful in such 
 space, or rather absence of space, as their pre- 
 sent narrow fold, came from all parts of the 
 three kingdoms. There were three damsels still 
 entitled to the virgin snood : one " fat, fair, and 
 forty:" another in the "sere and yellow leaf :" 
 and last, as well as least in form, one worthy 
 to retain her " single blessedness " for ever 
 and a day : but such is man's craving for the 
 sweets of wedded life, that even these, with for- 
 lorn hope inscribed on every wrinkle, had each 
 made captive a gallant knight, and were then 
 en route to Visola bella of Hymen ! 
 
 Three was a magic number on board the steam 
 prison. A triumvirate of brides were daring the 
 perils of the deep with their favoured Benedicts, 
 edifying the passengers in general with a daily 
 exhibition of the art of cooing and wooing in all 
 its branches and various moods and degrees. 
 
 Three fair daughters of Eve appeared in that 
 suffering condition which our immortal bard, in 
 
42 BOMBAY MAIL STEAMER. 
 
 the bliss of ignorance, terms " the pleasing punish- 
 ment that women bear." 
 
 Three happy wives were en route to their ex- 
 pectant lords, and twice three happier still in 
 the presence of their devoted sposo's ; and three 
 fair lassies, rich in the bloom of girlhood's beauty, 
 sheltered under the protecting wings of elderly 
 chaperones, were bound for the great matrimonial 
 mart of the East. 
 
 Three eligible bachelors, full of buoyant hope 
 and youthful expectation, were journeying to the 
 El-dorado of their separate dreams; and three, 
 in the evening hour of life, forsaking the joys of 
 wedded and filial love, to wander afar in search 
 of gold. 
 
 Of the fare which the happy community on 
 board enjoyed, a brief description might amuse 
 the reader more than the reality pleased the pas- 
 senger. Fowls, that looked as if they had de- 
 parted this life in the last stage of atrophy ; 
 turkeys, which evidently had not lived on the fat 
 of the land ; and instead of that " pretty-looking 
 mutton, on which the soul of Peter Pindar could 
 turn glutton," the most ancient patriarchs of the 
 flock were provided for our sustenance ; nor could 
 they, under the form of hash, stew, harico, or 
 ragout, be converted into " savoury meat." Im- 
 
BOMBAY MAIL STEAMEE. 43 
 
 penetrable biscuits, with dry fragments of old 
 rusks (which, from their antiquity, had doubtless 
 undergone a previous voyage round the world), 
 were our substitutes for the staff of life. Wine 
 and beer were given a discretion; and for such 
 thirsty souls as those 011 board our vessel, the 
 Heidelburg Tun would hardly have furnished too 
 generous a supply. Of the broths manufactured 
 for the sick (alias hot water plentifully supplied 
 with grease) ; of the infusion of senna and snuff 
 dignified with the name of tea ; and other cor- 
 dials prepared for weak stomachs, the journalist 
 would record a grateful remembrance. 
 
 The floor of the saloon at night was thickly 
 strewed with dark, dirty, dingy Portuguese ser- 
 vants, and natives of the East, extended full 
 length in every direction ; and not one step could 
 be taken without treading on their mahogany 
 arms or legs. Some of the cabins were untenant- 
 able from suffocating heat ; and two or three lady 
 sufferers were thankful to share the saloon table 
 (a bed of down in a garden of roses), sleeping 
 with their heads directly under the windsail. 
 During the day also the atmosphere was such as 
 might be anticipated in the regions of Pluto; 
 and this was the plea for an infringement of de- 
 eorum, rare even on board a steamer, where a 
 
44 BOMBAY MAIL STEAMER. ADEN. 
 
 sans faqon style always prevails. Some of the 
 modest wives and mothers of England seemed to 
 perform the duties of the toilet entirely for the 
 edification of the public ; and, with the door and 
 window of their cabins open, initiated passengers 
 of both sexes into the mysteries of their morning 
 ablutions, hair-dressing, corset-lacing, &c. Even 
 English propriety, pre-eminent everywhere, dis- 
 solved under the fervent heat encountered on the 
 Red Sea. With three hundred living souls on board 
 a vessel small for the accommodation of half that 
 number, the boiler out of repair, a chimney con- 
 tinually on fire, the keel worn out, and the most 
 ungracious captain that ever commanded " a 
 skimmer of the seas," our powers of endurance 
 were heavily taxed. Nearly half-way between 
 Suez and the port to which we were bound, a 
 stormy wind arose, and continued without inter- 
 mission four days and nights, during which time 
 the dead-lights were up, and the vessel bounding 
 like a water- witch on the foaming waves pitch- 
 ing, rolling, rocking, swaying and every hapless 
 passenger on board a prey to the Demon of 
 Unrest. Even the sight of Aden was welcome 
 after our imprisonment, though from the sea it 
 appears only a dry and arid rock "in a barren 
 and thirsty land." The bungalows are very fra- 
 
ADEN. BOMBAY. THE BAY. 45 
 
 gile erections, and the hotel looks like a tempo- 
 rary barn. 
 
 After a long and weary passage from Aden, 
 we reached Bombay. I have heard the bay of 
 Bombay compared to that of Naples ; and beau- 
 tiful it undoubtedly is, with its surrounding group 
 of islands. But the commanding position of 
 Naples, with its glittering white palaces and 
 buildings, looking like a city of marble ; the 
 grandeur of Vesuvius, and beauty of Ischia and 
 Capri ; to these even the loveliness of its Oriental 
 rival must yield, and Bella Napoli remain the 
 matchless queen of the southern seas. The ship- 
 ping which animates the Bay of Bombay every 
 variety of craft, from the dignity of men-of-war 
 down to the humble patty mar, is one point of 
 attraction very strongly insisted on, which, if it 
 existed in the Bay of Naples, would in my 
 humble judgment divest it of its peculiar charm, 
 the perfect tranquillity of its repose; a sort of 
 holy calm, as if the Spirit of the Deep were 
 breathless with adoration ! 
 
 The island on which the Eastern Presidency is 
 situated is low, and very little of the town itself 
 is visible from the harbour : the first coup-d'ceil on 
 landing is not striking; there is none of the 
 splendour that distinguishes the seat of Supreme 
 
46 BOMBAY. ESPLANADE. BUNGALOWS. 
 
 Government. Some of the houses within the 
 port have a handsome appearance as seen from 
 the esplanade, which, with its innumerable tents, 
 is a very gay scene, the favoured haunt of the 
 beau monde for an evening drive, especially when 
 enlivened by the garrison band: this, though 
 ostensibly the magnet that attracts the multitude, 
 rarely occasions a pause in the current of conver- 
 sation, flirtation, scandal, or other potent spell, 
 which causes the general indifference exhibited 
 to the charms of melody. 
 
 Beyond the line of pavilions temporary bun- 
 galows are erected ; and some of these are very 
 tastefully arranged. As soon as the cold season 
 approaches, the migration of town residents be- 
 gins, and the esplanade swarms with lovers of 
 sea-breezes. A very fine statue of Lord Corn- 
 wallis is erected near the principal gate of en- 
 trance to the fort. To shield this valuable 
 sculpture from the inclemency of the weather, it 
 is more than half concealed by the " chopper," or 
 thatch of straw and bamboos. 
 
 The Town Hall is a noble building, containing 
 three beautiful specimens of modern sculpture, 
 the statues of Sir John Malcolm, Mr. El- 
 phinstone, and Sir George Forbes. The Ball 
 Room in this spacious building is superb; but 
 
BOMBAY. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 47 
 
 requires, from its extraordinary dimensions, such 
 floods of light, that it is rarely used for any noc- 
 turnal entertainment. 
 
 The Library is magnificent, and seems suffi- 
 ciently stored with intellectual supplies to satisfy 
 the craving appetites of all the book-worms in 
 the three presidencies. Of the Museum, and its 
 interesting illustrations of natural history, speci- 
 mens of mineralogy, conchology, ichthyology, 
 fossil remains, anatomical curiosities, and armo- 
 rial and other antiquities, the learned only can 
 give an adequate description. 
 
 The Mint is well worthy of a morning visit, 
 and seems admirably managed. 
 
 There is no architectural beauty in the Cathe- 
 dral or other churches on the island. In the 
 former were many monuments, erected by incon- 
 solable husbands and wives to departed conjugal 
 excellence ; and " very remarkable it is," said the 
 old Bombay resident who pointed out these 
 marble records of undying love, " how rapidly 
 the soi-disant incurables have found a balm for 
 their sorrow ! " a living influence, stronger than 
 any bond of union with the dead ! 
 
 The Bazar is a scene of noise and bustle, be- 
 ginning early and ending late. It is thickly 
 populated with natives of all lands. The houses 
 
 . 
 
48 BOMBAY. BAZARS. PARSEES. 
 
 are very irregular : some belonging to rich natives, 
 elaborate in their decoration, painted bright green, 
 glaring red, or gay canary colour. The goods 
 open to view are not very tempting to European 
 eyes. The confectioners display an infinite 
 variety of sweets, endurable only to the unci- 
 vilised taste of the inhabitants. The jewellers 
 dazzle their ebony customers with nose-rings, ear- 
 rings, armlets, and anklets of the most gaudy hues 
 and barbarous dimensions : and the cloth-venders 
 exhibit, in their front store, sundry faded rolls of 
 foreign manufacture. To describe the omnium 
 gatherum which fills the remaining shops would 
 require a more able pen. The Parsees seem to 
 infest the town like an army of locusts wherever 
 you turn : they are united by a strong feeling of 
 clanship, rich, roguish, civil, and discreet, in the 
 management of their mundane affairs, as the 
 scattered tribes of Israel ; bigoted in their adhe- 
 rence to the doctrines of Zoroaster, and powerful 
 and opulent beyond any class in Bombay. 
 
 A very pretty Hospital is being constructed on 
 the Byculla road, towards which that munificent 
 and illustrious knight Sir Jemsetjee Jejeboy has 
 contributed one lac of rupees, and government 
 two. Adjoining this is the Grant College, for 
 
BOMBAY. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 49 
 
 the instruction of native youth of the rising 
 generation and after ages. 
 
 In the same compound with the Bycuila 
 church are two very excellent schools, where, 
 after attaining a certain age (about seventeen or 
 eighteen), the male pupils are apprenticed to 
 various trades, and the females marry, or obtain 
 situations as servants. 
 
 The Bycuila Club is a neat-looking building, 
 and convenient as a liberty-hall for the bachelor 
 visiters at Bombay. 
 
 The Botanical Gardens are not extensive ; but 
 very tastefully arranged, prettily situated, and 
 sometimes, when brilliantly illuminated for a 
 soiree dansante, look like a scene in fairy land. 
 
 There are beautiful drives, on roads that would 
 charm M'Adam himself, in the neighbourhood of 
 Bombay; and the luxuriant palm, date, and 
 cocoa-nut trees, abounding in all parts of the 
 island, give it a very picturesque Oriental appear- 
 ance. The Governor's residence, about three 
 miles from the fort, is a very lordly mansion, and 
 the ground surrounding it has a park-like English 
 look. 
 
 Bombay is justly celebrated for its fine dock- 
 yard, the abundance and excellence of its fish, 
 
 D 
 
50 BOMBAY. CLIMATE. SOCIETY. 
 
 the superior quality of its mangoes, the grandeur 
 of its pummalos, and delicious custard apples. 
 
 For beautiful specimens of ivory, inlaid with 
 silver mosaic, made into the most captivating 
 work-boxes, elegant baskets, and seducing little 
 nicknacks of all shapes and sizes and for every 
 variety of purpose, the fame of Bombay has 
 spread far and wide. 
 
 Of the climate, residents only can give a faith- 
 ful account ; to the writer it appeared most op- 
 pressive during the autumnal months. 
 
 Of the society those alone who have had long 
 experience can give a just description. I have 
 heard railing accusations against the residents of 
 Bombay, for utter neglect of the duties of hos- 
 pitality ; for the love of scandal in the community ; 
 for petty jealousy on the subject of rank and pre- 
 cedence, &c. &c. Of this I saw no evidence 
 myself; but, as a bird of passage, I gratefully 
 record my personal experience of the most 
 hospitable and friendly reception, cordial and 
 genuine kindness, and perfectly unexceptionable 
 society. 
 
51 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 JOURNEY FROM BOMBAY THROUGH GUZZERAT 
 AXD RAJPOOTANA, TO DELHI. 
 
 WE left Bombay in a small steamer bound for 
 Surat, well laden with live stock, a cargo of 
 merchandise of various kinds, and a legion of 
 Hindoos and Mussulmen, whose mode of blunting 
 the keen edge of appetite was little better to us 
 than an invitation to the mal de mer ; chewing 
 pawn and betel nut, and smoking hookahs from 
 the dawn of day till nightfall. At the bar of Surat 
 a change in our mode of travelling awaited us. 
 In fear and trembling the womankind of the party 
 were " hoisted in " by a chair, to which the same 
 strong ropes and pulleys were attached, which had 
 previously been used for the transmission of Arab 
 chargers, a variety of smaller quadrupeds, and a 
 caravan load of baggage and supplies, to the Noah's 
 Ark in which we were to brave the perils of the 
 Gulf of Cambay during the spring tides. The 
 cabin of the said vessel, alias pattimar, was suffi- 
 ciently spacious and comfortable. The first night 
 
 D 2 
 
52 CAMBAY. FACTORY-HOUSE. 
 
 our progress was impeded by a contrary wind ; the 
 second our bark rolled in the most merciless way ; 
 and the rush of the flood tides was terrific to the 
 uninitiated in the mysteries of the gulf. On the 
 morning of the 22nd we arrived at Cambay, 
 which is pretty as seen from the sea ; to the 
 westward of the town are the ruins of an ancient 
 castle and gateway ; and to the eastward, a native 
 building of some pretensions to architectural 
 taste and beauty. The Factory house, or bun- 
 galow appropriated by the honourable East India 
 Company to the accommodation of travellers, is 
 as comfortable as such resting-places usually 
 prove in the East, where bare walls, stone or mud 
 floors, a table, two chairs, and a hard bed, form 
 the general amount of luxuries prepared for the 
 wayworn traveller. 
 
 The cavalcade which started from the bun- 
 galow by torchlight, on the 24th of , con- 
 sisted of an abigail in a palankeen, with twelve 
 attendant bearers of most dusky hue ; five bullock 
 hackeries, or carts, laden with heavy baggage; 
 seven camels, bearing tents, beds, and culinary 
 apparatus ; a guard, consisting of a corporal and 
 six soldiers ; and in the rear an illustrious officer 
 and his better half, doing the dignified in a small 
 covered cart, drawn by two large lazy Guzzerat 
 
KAIRAH. AHMED ABAD. TRAVELLING. 53 
 
 bullocks that manifested the most decided objec- 
 tion to keep moving. 
 
 The roads over which the procession passed 
 were a perfect weariness to the flesh ; the deepest 
 ruts, the rudest jolts, the highest banks on either 
 side; and long wreaths of brambles meeting in 
 the centre of the road, were the only pleasures 
 experienced and sights seen during our first 
 march to Sejetra; a distance of sixteen miles, 
 accomplished in eight hours ! 
 
 After resting some time at the dawk bun- 
 galow, or post-house, we proceeded in the same 
 order as before to Kairah ; a longer stage, over 
 equally rough ground; and reached the pretty 
 cantonment just named, at 7 A. M. on Christmas 
 day. The morning sun was bright as a dream of 
 childhood ; a sweet spirit of joy dwelt with the 
 travellers then ; a ray of light from the better 
 land, lent for a moment of unspeakable happiness, 
 and then withdrawn from the hearts that che- 
 rished it, till the re-union of all in the one great 
 centre of life, light, and love. 
 
 The dawk house at Kairah is spacious, and 
 prettily situated ; trees abound in the neighbour- 
 hood, and the greensward in front of the bun- 
 galow would not be deemed unworthy of England. 
 We pursued our journey to Ahmedabad in the 
 D 3 
 
54 KULLOLE. LANGKEZE. 
 
 evening. There was no interesting scenery en 
 route, and nothing but wretched roads even 
 within the walls of the capital city of Guzzerat ! 
 a large straggling town, with much unoccupied 
 ground, and few good buildings, save the New 
 Prison a very cheerful-looking place, of most 
 inviting appearance. 
 
 There are many and beautiful ruins in the 
 environs of Ahmedabad, chiefly Mahomedan, and 
 a fine cantonment to the north-east. Groves of 
 tamarind trees abound in the vicinity of the city, 
 of particular luxuriance and beauty. 
 
 We renewed our march, with the addition of a 
 guard of Gaiakore horse, for the better security of 
 our valuable lives and property. The only incident 
 in the day's journey was the fording of a river 
 between the town and cantonments. A slight 
 improvement in the scenery gratified our visual 
 organs, and an amendment in the road comforted 
 our bones between Ahmedabad and Kullole, the 
 first stage, which was passed at midnight. Our 
 tent was pitched thirty-three miles from the 
 capital, at Langreze, which we reached on the 
 morning of the 29th. 
 
 When the light of evening was waning, 
 through alternate desert and jungle the weary 
 travellers pursued their journey at the same 
 
SEIDPOOR. DEESA. MOUNT ABOO. 55 
 
 expeditious rate as before ; viz. two miles an 
 hour. We reached Seidpoor before the dawn 
 of day, and passed the Sabbath in a ruined house 
 on the banks of a pretty river ; and by forced 
 marches proceeded to Deesa, a large military sta- 
 tion, with some pretty bungalows and gardens ; an 
 English and a Roman Catholic place of worship, 
 and a quiet guarded cemetery. A few days' rest 
 at this cantonment was very needful ; and the 
 hospitality, the kindness, the genuine friendly 
 feeling evinced by perfect strangers, can never 
 be exceeded, and is most gratefully remembered. 
 Muddar, the first stage from Deesa, is distant 
 sixteen miles, the road passing through a desert 
 of deep sand and wild jungle ; through this the 
 grey steeds laboured painfully, at the usual rate 
 of two miles an hour. Our tents were pitched 
 near a noble mango tree, with a full view of 
 Mount Aboo in front the favourite resort of all 
 dwellers in the neighbouring districts during the 
 hot season. A wretched road skirting the moun- 
 tain leads to Silwarra (eight miles westward of 
 Aboo), a small mud village, surrounded by rocky 
 hills. From thence we proceeded to Maira, and 
 there breakfasted, under a superb banian tree, 
 fronting the mountain. Peacocks, partridges, 
 and quails, abound on the road to Scrohi ; and the 
 
 D 4 
 
5 6 ERINPOOK A. DESLAH. 
 
 prevailing enjoyments of the march were, as 
 usual, deep ruts, and most terrific jolts. 
 
 The rajah of Scrohi expressed a great desire 
 to see the " Colonel sahib," and was full of civil 
 intentions and attentions during our brief visit. 
 The village is prettily situated, on the side of a 
 hill ; and his own residence has a picturesque 
 castellated appearance. There are many Mussul- 
 man tombs around Scrohi, which has evidently 
 been of some importance in days " lang syne." 
 
 A bad road and wild jungle leads to Erinpoora, 
 the head quarters of a small force of cavalry, 
 artillery, and foot-soldiers, designated the " Joud- 
 pore Legion," and under the command of European 
 officers, the first of whom is political agent to 
 Government in the district of Scrohi. 
 
 There is no beauty of scenery to be recorded 
 at Erinpoora, but much hospitality and kind- 
 ness of the English residents there; arresting 
 birds of passage in their flight, and winning a 
 grateful remembrance. After passing some plea- 
 sant days with them we continued our route 
 through the uninteresting country between Erin- 
 poora and Deslah, a distance of twenty-four 
 miles accomplished in nine hours. Not one event 
 of interest occurred after passing the third stage. 
 
 Our tent was pitched after a day's halt at 
 
PALEE. SOOJEET. 67 
 
 Palee, a large market-town, situated in a fine 
 open country. About nine years since it was 
 nearly devastated by plague, and a few fatal 
 cases occurred the morning of our arrival. Great 
 difficulty was experienced in procuring hackeries, 
 or carts, for the conveyance of our heavy bag- 
 gage ; and a detention of some hours occurred. 
 A man sent by the political agent of the district 
 expressly to furnish all we required, was placed 
 under arrest, as a punishment for refractory con- 
 duct ; the town being amply supplied with all he 
 failed to procure, this chastisement was attended 
 with the desired effect, after hours of vexatious 
 delay. 
 
 Two stages beyond Palee is Soojeet, a large, 
 ancient, curious-looking town, surrounded by a 
 high " puckah " or brick wall with battlements, a 
 hill fort commanding it. The country in the 
 neighbourhood is open and level, and the road 
 by which it is approached very good. The dif- 
 ficulty in obtaining supplies at Soojeet for the 
 quadrupeds of our party was great, and the man 
 above mentioned said the inhabitants refused to 
 obey his orders. Guides were promised ; but the 
 shadows of evening lengthened, the hour of starting 
 arrived, and no guides appeared. Accordingly 
 G was again put under arrest till they were 
 
 D 5 
 
58 CHUNDOOL. BAD ROADS. 
 
 produced. At the villages, en route, we were 
 unable even to procure the oil needed by our 
 " mussolchie," or light-bearer. This ebony gen- 
 tleman during our nocturnal wanderings, was 
 frequently greeted with a little Hindoostanee 
 slang, and politely informed that " the sahib might 
 buy it wherever he could." 
 
 The road was far worse than any of the rough 
 ways over which we had hitherto passed ; it was a 
 succession of loose stones, deep ruts, and beds of 
 sand. Eight weary hours were consumed in jour- 
 neying the next fourteen miles to Chundool. The 
 encamping ground, which we reached after mid- 
 night, was on the borders of a small lake, the tent 
 pitched in the vicinity of some picturesque ancient 
 tombs was sheltered by fine trees, and the tombs 
 were speedily converted by our guards and do~ 
 mestics into temporary kitchens, bathing-houses, 
 and dormitories. Our arrival excited a great sen- 
 sation among the villagers, and the tent was 
 incessantly surrounded by crowds of men, women, 
 and children, gazing at the wonderful pheno- 
 menon, of a white-faced lady eating, drinking, 
 walking, and talking, on terms of perfect equality, 
 with her lord and (nominal) master. 
 
 About nine miles from Chundool we had the 
 greatest difficulty in procuring guides. Two of 
 the dark horsemen who formed our escort, were 
 
BURRAH B ARRANT! A. 59 
 
 galloping through the village shouting for 
 " ugooahs " (or guides), and the torch-bearers for 
 oil; but each and all exercised their lungs for 
 nearly an hour in vain. At last, the dormant 
 energies of the villagers were roused, assailed by 
 a combination of sounds unrivalled save in the 
 tower of Babel ; and about midnight, a half-naked 
 guide emerged from his dwelling of mud, to con- 
 duct us as far as Burrah Barrantia the next stage, 
 a distance of seven miles, and the full extent of 
 his geographical knowledge a degree of infor- 
 mation rarely exceeded by any of his brethren, 
 whose curiosity never excites them to penetrate 
 further than the village adjoining their birth- 
 place. 
 
 We reached our camp at three in the morn- 
 ing, after passing over a rough stony road in a 
 barren land. Again the necessary supplies were 
 difficult of attainment, and of very indifferent 
 quality. More than six hours were spent in ac- 
 complishing the next twelve miles of our journey. 
 For any description of carriage the road is a very 
 dangerous one, owing to large loose stones and 
 detached pieces of rock. Our guide lost the right 
 track, for road in the macadamised sense of the 
 word there was none. Two of the carts heavily 
 laden with baggage broke down. The camels 
 
60 RUTTOORIA. NUSSEEEABAD. 
 
 finding their burden unpleasant upset the same, 
 sans ceremonie. 
 
 On arriving at Ruttooria we were informed that 
 the neighbouring country was infested with wolves, 
 and we were advised to be in battle array for the 
 night. Accordingly a formidable barricade was 
 erected in front of our tent. Sentries were sta- 
 tioned at all points of the compass, blazing fires 
 lit, all the live stock assembled and sheltered 
 under the protecting wing of the guard ; while 
 the train of quaking servants crouched together 
 around the fires, in trembling apprehension of a 
 visit from the nocturnal foe that haunts these 
 wild regions, seeking whom it may devour. 
 
 We passed through Old Beawur, en route to 
 Kurwar, the road wretched as before, and the 
 scenery uninteresting. At the large cantonment 
 of Nusseerabad, about twenty miles from Kurwar, 
 we passed a few happy days, under the roof of two 
 of the most friendly and benevolent spirits that 
 ever appeared in mortal shape, for the especial 
 benefit of man and woman kind. 
 
 The country around the station is totally devoid 
 of interest, barren hills in the distance and equally 
 barren plains in the vicinity. Assembly-rooms in 
 a very dilapidated condition, a church without 
 any pretension to architectural beauty, a few 
 good bungalows, and a few pretty gardens. 
 
JEYPOOR. RAJAH'S PALACE. 61 
 
 The road from Nusseerabad to Jeypoor is alter- 
 nately bad, very bad, pretty good, and 
 good. Ten miles beyond the third stage Echlana, 
 is Doo-Doo, a large straggling town, with a 
 " puckah," fort; the travellers' bungalow is situated 
 near the road at a distance from the town. 
 
 Nothing worthy of record occurred for the next 
 twenty-two miles ; for the rest and refreshment 
 of man and beast we halted at Bugrah. Our 
 nocturnal journey to Jeypoor was accomplished in 
 safety, over a wretched road rendered still worse 
 by torrents of rain. 
 
 A hospitable reception awaited us at the 
 Residency ; an ancient native building, modernised 
 and metamorphosed into a spacious and comfort- 
 able abode for a European gentleman of rank and 
 wealth. 
 
 Jeypoor is one of the finest cities in India. The 
 palace inhabited by the rajah is superb, and the 
 ee huwah mahaul," or air palace, one of the most 
 curious of the many strikingly Oriental buildings 
 in the town. It seems so light and delicate that 
 a passing wind might destroy the whole fabric. 
 The streets of Jeypoor are built at right angles 
 to one another, and in length, breadth, and clean- 
 liness, would bear a comparison with Regent 
 Street ; in architectural beauty they surpass it. 
 
62 JEYPOOR TO MUHAWTJLPOOR. 
 
 They were thronged with busy natives buying 
 and selling grain, and merchandise of all de- 
 scriptions ; and there was a general air of pros- 
 perity and animated life in the city, exceeding 
 that of any town I had hitherto seen in India. 
 
 Marble and alabaster are skilfully converted by 
 the natives of Jeypoor into lively illustrations of 
 Hindoo mythology and animal life of all descrip- 
 tions, also various articles for the table. 
 
 One of the rajah's finest elephants. was kindly 
 lent to convey us over the most dangerous part of 
 the first march from his capital. We proceeded 
 by the f< bund durwazu," over a paved and very 
 perilous causeway ; in spite of guides and guards, 
 fearing all possible accidents which could occur to 
 the serious injury of ourselves, goods, and chattels. 
 
 Large masses of rock and stone render this 
 road one of great danger for carriages or carts. 
 However, no evil incident occurred, and, after 
 twelve hours very fatiguing travelling, we reached 
 TJckrole, twenty-five miles from Jeypoor, in per- 
 fect safety of life, limb, and property. 
 
 Deep sand, a stony pass between low hills, and 
 wild ravines form what is called the road to Mu- 
 hawulpoor. The fording of two rivulets were the 
 only incidents that diversified this stage of our 
 journey ; the town itself has no claim to admira- 
 
KATE POOTLEE. 63 
 
 tion ; nor does Bhabra, fifteen miles in advance, 
 merit particular attention. The most exciting 
 events on our march to the last-named place, 
 were the upsetting of a cart, the illness of a 
 sheep, and the desertion of five servants, fa- 
 voured in their escape by a dark and stormy 
 evening, closing in with tropical torrents of rain 
 which rendered all pursuit impracticable. The 
 day following our arrival at Bhabra we were 
 half- smothered by a sand storm, which was suc- 
 ceeded by a gale of wind and deluge of rain. The 
 road to Kate Pootlee, nineteen miles distant, 
 was good compared with those we had lately 
 traversed ; the country barren with low hills on 
 each side. 
 
 Though the political agent had twice written, 
 and three envoys, two horsemen, and a hirkarra 
 (messenger) preceded our arrival by some hours, 
 no conveyances had been prepared for our heavy 
 luggage. At last fourteen arrived from Rewarrie 
 in due time for the pursuance of our journey. 
 We had scarcely proceeded a mile when we were 
 assailed by a violent storm ; the thunder and light- 
 ning were terrific, the rain poured down in such 
 a deluge that the earth can have known no thirst 
 for months after; the wind howled a sad dirge 
 for the day's departed sunshine, and the darkness 
 which prevailed between the intervals of lightning 
 
64 SHAJEHANPORE. MINAS. 
 
 was so dense, that an escort of police was sent 
 with lanterns to guide us as far as Goojurbans, a 
 village remarkable only as possessing but one tree, 
 and recorded in the book of memory as a welcome 
 shelter to the way-worn well-drenched travellers. 
 Here we were warned not to halt at Byrode, the 
 next stage, the favored haunt of a horde of re- 
 doubtable thieves called "Minas." Our guard was 
 augmented by six of the Alwar rajah's horsemen, 
 and thus protected we passed on in safety to Sha- 
 jehanpore ; once losing the road through the 
 stupidity of the guides, and repeatedly on the 
 verge of being upset. The country around 
 Shajehanpore is open and desolate, a range of low 
 hills in the distance, the town ancient and inhabited 
 principally by Minas. 
 
 On arriving at Rewaree, we received intel- 
 ligence, which caused our immediate departure 
 for Delhi, which we reached by forced marches, 
 on St. Valentine's day, 18 . We entered 
 the far-famed imperial city, by the Cashmere 
 gate, about two miles beyond which, the can- 
 tonments are situated. The Resident gave 
 us a most hospitable reception, and our brief 
 sojourn in his magnificent dwelling was one of 
 unmixed gratification. It is a superb mansion, 
 and the extensive ground surrounding it has 
 
DELHI. RESIDENT'S MANSION. 65 
 
 much of the beauty of an English park. Every 
 luxury that wealth can procure, characterises the 
 interior of the residence. A fine suite of lofty 
 reception-rooms, well suited to a princely enter- 
 tainer, like the present occupant. A splendid 
 library, richly stored with the best works, ancient 
 and modern, in all the living and dead languages. 
 A fine gallery, filled with costly and beautiful 
 engravings; salons and boudoirs, decorated with 
 works of art and curiosities, ingenuities, and 
 nicknackeries, from all parts of the world. Re- 
 fined taste and boundless liberality are evidenced, 
 in this rare and valuable collection, made during 
 a long residence in India, by the well-known and 
 
 deservedly esteemed brother of Baron M . 
 
 Many able writers have given eloquent de- 
 scriptions of the once superb metropolis of the 
 Great Mogul, and the ruins of the ancient capital, 
 which cover an immense extent of territory. 
 Modern Delhi, situated on the western bank of 
 the Jumma, is about a third of the size of the 
 ancient city ; the streets are wide, and the ap- 
 pearance of the town lively ; it is surrounded by 
 a high wall of red granite with Martello towers. 
 An extensive parade terminates at the house 
 and gardens formerly in the possession of Sir 
 David Ochterlony. The church erected by 
 
66 DELHI. TOMBS. KOOTTJB MINAK. 
 
 Colonel Skinner, is a handsome building, and 
 cost that gallant and generous officer more than 
 a lac of rupees. 
 
 Owing to indisposition, we were unable to 
 visit the palace, which however has been so fre- 
 quently and minutely described, that any details 
 connected with it would be superfluous. For 
 miles around Delhi, there is an air of solemn 
 desolation; and the tombs scattered in every 
 direction, seem even to cumber the ground. 
 
 The day after our arrival, we drove to the 
 Kootub Minar, and visited on our return, Sufter 
 Jung's tomb, also the Jumma Musjeed. 
 
 The beauty of the Kootub Minar exceeded our 
 expectations ; it stands alone in its majesty, the 
 solitary tower of Hindoostan, the proportions are 
 beautiful, and the ornamental work exquisite. 
 It rises from the earth without a basement, one 
 of the most striking specimens of Oriental archi- 
 tecture. Its erection is said to have occupied 
 forty-four years : the height is two hundred and 
 forty feet; the circumference at the base, one 
 hundred and six feet. It is a circular fluted 
 column of red sandstone, with four balconies, 
 surrounded with battlements of cut stone. From 
 the third balcony to the summit it is built of 
 white marble. Three hundred and eighty stone 
 
DELHI. HINDOO TEMPLES. 67 
 
 steps of a spiral staircase, are ascended before the 
 top is reached. The arches of the mosque to 
 which this tower belonged, are still standing, 
 some in a very perfect state, and are quite in 
 keeping with the Minar. There are adjacent 
 ruins of ancient Hindoo temples, all more or less 
 insignificant, scattered in every direction, colon- 
 nades of carved stone pillars and pedestals, and a 
 small column of a metal resembling bronze, 
 erected by Prethee Raj, an old Hindoo sovereign 
 of Delhi. 
 
 Fine gardens surround the Kootub Minar, 
 and many tents may be seen within the walls, 
 the temporary residences of European visiters. 
 Pic-nics are also frequently arranged, from 
 Delhi to this celebrated tower and the neigh- 
 bouring sights. We had intended ascending to 
 the summit of the Minar, but were deterred at 
 the very first step by a terrible effluvia pro- 
 ceeding from the hordes of bats that infest the 
 interior of the edifice ; such odours vile as might 
 well daunt the spirit of the most resolute sight- 
 seeing individual. 
 
 The divers, in the vicinity of the Kootub, are 
 renowned for their extreme dexterity; but a 
 stout nerve is requisite to witness their exploits, 
 such as that weaker vessel, yclept woman, rarely 
 
68 DELHI. JUMMA MUSJEED. 
 
 The Kootub Minar stands on the back of one 
 of a range of low hills, and the road to the new 
 city crosses a level country ; countless mosques 
 and mausoleums cover the plain. 
 
 The massive tomb of Sufter Jung is indeed a 
 splendid monument to the memory of the dead, 
 with a lofty dome in the centre, a rich fa9ade, 
 and very graceful minarets. The base of the 
 building is surrounded by an arched colonnade. 
 The whole tomb is in a state of perfect pre- 
 servation. 
 
 Our next visit was to the far-famed Jumma 
 Musjeed, raised by the emperor Shah Jehan, at 
 the cost of a hundred thousand pounds, and six 
 years' labour. After ascending long flights of 
 broad stone steps, a large court is entered, in 
 which stands the superb mosque, with its grand 
 domes and beautiful minarets, one of the most 
 magnificent edifices in India. In the colonnade 
 surrounding the court, a swarm of Hindoo boys 
 were at school, submitting apparently to a very 
 laborious training of their young ideas ; squatting 
 on the stone floor with open books on their 
 knees, all reading, or rather chanting at the same 
 time, in dirge-like tones, rocking their bodies 
 backwards and forwards, and occasionally emitting 
 groaning sounds, as if in mortal agony. 
 
DELHI. MANUFACTORIES. MEDALLIONS. 69 
 
 The above-mentioned excursions were made in 
 a carriage kindly lent us by one of the principal 
 native residents at Delhi, the Maharajah, Hindu 
 Rao (brother to the ex-queen of Gwalior), formerly 
 in command of the armies of that state, and also 
 holding other high situations. He is now one of 
 the pensioners of the Honourable East India 
 Company, from whom he enjoys a pension of 
 ten thousand rupees a month. He is very 
 obliging to the English, and held in great esteem. 
 His manners and address are most pleasing and 
 gentlemanly.. 
 
 We saw some beautiful specimens of the 
 shawls, scarfs, and jewellery for which Delhi is 
 renowned. Small medallions of the celebrated 
 buildings and ruins of Agra and Delhi are fre- 
 quently painted with great skill by native artists, 
 and very richly set by native jewellers as brooches, 
 bracelets, and other ornaments. 
 
 Three pleasant days were passed by us under 
 the roof of the hospitable resident of Delhi ; after 
 which our wanderings again commenced. 
 
70 
 
 CHAR V. 
 
 FROM DELHI, THROUGH THE PROTECTED SIKH 
 STATES, TO UMBALLA. 
 
 THE journalist must now record her first expe- 
 rience of a regimental march. The elements were 
 in wrath, the winds high, the clouds wearing a 
 most ominous aspect. Not so the cavalcade that 
 quitted Delhi for Allipoor in the following order: 
 First the colonel, in command of as fine a cavalry 
 corps as any in the service, mounted on a snow- 
 white Arabian charger, to whose grace and beauty 
 the pencil of Landseer only could do justice. On 
 the right of the commandant, an officer of very 
 gallant mien, adjutant of the regiment; on the 
 left, the quarter-master of the corps, a beau mili- 
 taire from the Emerald isle, with the gay spirit 
 and keen wit of a true son of Erin ; and others, 
 besides the staff, worthy of most honourable men- 
 tion, very gentlemanly and spirited officers, of 
 various rank and age. 
 
 An abler pen is requisite to give an accurate 
 
FIRST REGIMENTAL MARCH. 71 
 
 description of the cortege that followed the troops. 
 The rear-guard, awaiting the removal of the 
 camp : some with folded arms, perfect illustrations 
 of the spirit of patience ; others smoking a con- 
 solatory pipe ; a few crouching round the expiring 
 embers of the nocturnal fires. A chorus of 
 horrid gurgling sounds, proceeding from the 
 throats of camels indignant at the heavy burdens 
 imposed upon them ; some laden with grain and 
 supplies for the camp ; others, with a formidable 
 amount of baggage. Tents of various sorts, shapes, 
 and sizes ; tables large, small, round, square, and 
 oblong ; sofas good, bad, and indifferent ; chairs 
 which had evidently passed through the ordeal of 
 many previous marches, some bereft of arms, 
 others destitute of legs, and not a few minus a seat. 
 Dilapidated chests of drawers, and every imagin- 
 able variety of trunk, box, bag, and basket, &c., 
 capable of receiving odds and ends, utilities and 
 rubbish, the omnium gatherum of a marching 
 regiment ; herds of buffaloes, bullocks, and ponies, 
 bearing their share of the common burden, and 
 laden also with the culinary apparatus of the 
 camp. Hackeries, weighed down with a heavy 
 cargo of goods; bangy wallahs, or bearers of 
 boxes called petarahs, for carrying refresh- 
 ments, and suspended by ropes to each end of a 
 
72 CAMP FOLLOWERS. 
 
 broad bamboo borne over the shoulders; troops 
 of grass-cutters, with their wretched tattoos, or 
 ponies ; syces, or grooms, and other useful appen- 
 dages to a cavalry corps ; the dhobees, or washer- 
 men of the regiment ; and a dingy-looking tribe 
 of bheesties, or water-carriers, adorned with 
 mushucks, or skins in which the water is con- 
 veyed, slung over their shoulders. In addition to 
 these, a train of servants, attendant on their 
 masters ; and the bazar people, interspersed with 
 the camp equipage. 
 
 In India, when troops are ordered to march, 
 every requisite article of consumption accompanies 
 the army or detachment moving, as the villages 
 or small towns furnish a very insufficient supply 
 for the numerous train : grain, oxen, sheep, goats, 
 poultry in fact all things under the head of 
 provisions must be procurable in the camp 
 bazar, which is a most amusing and motley as- 
 semblage. The camp-followers very far exceed 
 the number of fighting men. 
 
 Among the poorer classes, a father may fre- 
 quently be observed carrying one or two children 
 in baskets suspended to a bamboo, like the bangy 
 boxes before described, or conveying one child 
 on his hip, and another on the nape of the neck. 
 The women often carry their babes in a bag 
 
ARRIVAL AT ALLIPOOR. 73 
 
 shaped like a hood, and slung over their shoul- 
 ders. 
 
 The ladies in camp generally proceed in ad- 
 vance of the cortege just described; some in a 
 very recherche morning costume ; others en papil- 
 late, and bonnets de nuit. Occasionally a bold- 
 spirited equestrian may be seen ; but palankeens 
 and carriages are the general conveyances. 
 
 The regiment is welcomed to its encamping 
 ground by a fakeer (or religious enthusiast), who 
 beats his drum vigorously in honour of its arrival. 
 A flag waves proudly over this distinguished 
 gentleman, and is discernible at some distance. 
 He hails the regiment with a noisy shout that 
 baffles all description : " Long life to the com- 
 pany and regiment ! may they never want one to 
 sing forth their praise ! " These were the sounds 
 that greeted us on our arrival at Allipoor, which 
 is not worthy of particular mention. The fol- 
 lowing morning before daybreak we started for 
 Burrota-ka-Serai, a distance of eleven miles. 
 The weather was oppressively hot, and our en- 
 camping ground very bad. 
 
 A young officer and his wife, who were travel- 
 ling dawk (by palankeen, with relays of. bearers, 
 from stage to stage), claimed our hospitality for 
 the day, being unable to proceed from the want of 
 
74 BURR-KA-CHOKEE. PANIPUT. 
 
 bearers. Every couleur de rose tint had vanished 
 from the fair face of the young wife; and, at 
 twenty years of age, a look of hopeless debility 
 remained. Her husband was one of the most 
 gentlemanly and agreeable officers we met with. 
 
 Our next halting-place bore the enticing name 
 of Burr-ka-Chokee, to reach which we waded 
 through beds of sand, misnamed a road. The 
 encamping ground was about five miles distant 
 from a very large town with the harmonious title 
 of Soonput. 
 
 We quitted Burr-ka-Chokee for Solemha on 
 the 1 9th of , passing through a most un- 
 interesting country a desert of sand, till we 
 reached the respectable town just named, having 
 marched eleven miles in three hours. 
 
 The next stage, forty-eight miles from Delhi, 
 was the celebrated Paniput, the scene of two 
 most sanguinary battles ; " the first between the 
 sultan Baber and Ibrahim Lodi, the emperor of 
 Delhi, in 1525, when the latter was defeated; 
 and the second (more approaching to our own 
 times) in 1761, between the Mahrattas and the 
 army of Ahmed Shah Abdalla, the sovereign of 
 Cabul ; the former being utterly discomfited after 
 a long-continued struggle, and at a loss of not 
 less than half a million of lives." 
 
PANIPUT TO KURNAUL. 75 
 
 The stone houses and huts of the native inha- 
 bitants, interspersed with trees, have a picturesque 
 appearance at a distance. 
 
 Two marches from Paniput is Kurnaul, sur- 
 rounded by a brick wall in a very dilapidated 
 condition. The cantonments cover a great extent 
 of ground ; and the bungalows, some of which are 
 very good with large gardens, are built in wide 
 streets. 
 
 Twelve thousand men can be exercised with 
 perfect ease on the fine parade ground. 
 
 The church is spacious, and handsomer than 
 the generality of places of worship which we saw 
 in the upper provinces. But the station is almost 
 abandoned, in consequence of the terrific ravages 
 occasioned by fever ; and the church was deserted 
 alike by pastor and flock. 
 
 The scenery on the banks of the canal is very 
 picturesque it is bordered by weeping willows; 
 and the rich verdure of the neighbouring land 
 exceeded any I had yet seen in India. Rice 
 fields abound in the vicinity of Kurnaul; to 
 these, and the marshy ground near the canal, the 
 unhealthiness of the station is attributed. 
 
 We were encamped on the cavalry parade for 
 two days, and here also met with great civility 
 from the principal native resident, the JSTuwab of 
 
 E 2 
 
76 KURNAUL TO UMBALLA. 
 
 Kurnaul, who lent us his comfortable English 
 barouche during our stay, and also for the first 
 march from Kurnaul. 
 
 On the 25th we were en route, at the dawn of 
 clay, for Tunaisir, a large town of religious im- 
 portance to the Hindoos; and, the following 
 morning, passed through a highly cultivated 
 country to Shahabad, thirteen miles from Um- 
 balla, our ultimate destination. 
 
 Umballa is the head- quarters of the important 
 political agency of the north-west frontier. The 
 neighbouring country is very richly cultivated; 
 and, when completed, the cantonments will be 
 among the best and prettiest in the upper pro- 
 vinces. The snowy range of the Himmalaya 
 mountains was visible from our camp, a very 
 tantalising prospect to those who are obliged to 
 endure the miseries of the hot season in the 
 plains. 
 
 Three miles from the cantonments is the native 
 town. Its streets are constructed with arched 
 colonnades; and the bazaar is a livelier scene 
 than is generally met with in a small Indian 
 town. 
 
 No church has yet been erected at this station ; 
 accordingly divine service was performed in a 
 barrack by a clergyman recently appointed, and 
 
LIFE AT UMBALLA. 77 
 
 a sergeant acted as clerk. The singing was not 
 exactly " music of the spheres ; " and discord 
 reigned where harmony should prevail. The ser- 
 vice was fully attended; and the minister one 
 who could not fail to win the attention of his 
 hearers. 
 
 Two days during the week an excellent band 
 played, belonging to a European regiment sta- 
 tioned at Umballa, and attracted all the nobility, 
 gentry, beauty, and fashion of the vicinity. 
 
 The ladies in camp were here reinforced by a 
 party from Simla; and finally we mustered 
 twelve very prepossessing daughters of Eve. 
 Four young lassies, as fair as ever graced a 
 London drawing-room; and among those who 
 had long since entered into the holy state of ma- 
 trimony, were wives and mothers who would 
 have secured the happiness of any home. Among 
 the assembled fair ones were several amateurs of 
 music, whose sweet warblings enlivened many 
 venings in camp. 
 
 Not long after our arrival, the monotony of 
 our life was relieved by the presence of the com- 
 mander-in-chief, his family, and suite. A station 
 ball was given in honour of the event, and a bar- 
 rack metamorphosed into a salle de danse. The 
 
 3 
 
78 THE COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF'S TISIT. 
 
 names of all the victorious engagements in which 
 
 Sir had won renown in the Peninsula, 
 
 the Celestial Empire, and India were painted 
 on the walls, surrounded by festoons of laurel. 
 The huge figure of a grenadier of the 87th regi- 
 ment decorated one side of the room, and the 
 arms of the commander-in-chief were opposite. 
 Candelabras elaborately gilt were suspended from 
 the ceiling ; and cloth couleur de rose was spread 
 on the floor for the fairy feet of the danseuses. 
 
 About twenty ladies graced the evening enter- 
 tainment; and four times that number of officers 
 were present. A handsome supper was provided ; 
 and every arrangement (made a la hate) met with 
 the gracious approval of his Excellency, Lady 
 
 -, and their fair daughter. Each of those 
 
 distinguished individuals has won golden opinions 
 from all who have had the happiness of forming 
 their acquaintance. Their genuine kindness and 
 hospitality meet with and merit universal praise. 
 
 The camp of the commander-in-chief and staff 
 is a sight worth observation and record. The 
 order and regularity that prevails in every depart- 
 ment; the beauty of the tents, particularly those 
 of his Excellency, deserves a particular description. 
 They are magnificent pavilions, fitted up with 
 every requisite comfort. The reception-room 
 
GRAND REVIEW OF TROOPS. T9 
 
 was richly carpeted, furnished with as much 
 taste as any drawing-room at the Presidencies, 
 and, in the evening, brilliantly illuminated. A 
 piano was one of the portable luxuries in Lady 
 
 's tent, most particularly envied by those 
 
 who march with only an abundant supply of the 
 necessaries of life, but few such refined indul- 
 gencies. 
 
 A brilliant review of the troops at the station 
 took place during Sir 's visit at Umballa. 
 
 The adjutant-general kindly sent his finest ele- 
 phant for the especial use of the illustrious writer 
 of these pages. From the eminence to which she 
 was raised pro tempore, every part of the ground 
 chosen, and every movement and manoeuvre, were 
 distinctly visible, until the dragoons and artillery 
 appeared on the field ; and then the scene was one 
 that recalled to mind the picture by David at 
 Paris, the subject of which was " Le Marechal 
 Blucher, tombe sous son eheval a Waterloo," 
 and beneath which a wag of a critic had written, 
 " On ne voit pas le marechal a cause du eheval, 
 qui a tombe sur lui ; et on ne voit pas le eheval & 
 cause de la fumee ! " No doubt the manoeuvres 
 of the dragoons and artillery were very brilliant 
 and effective ; but officers, men, and horses were 
 
 E 4 
 
80 UMBALLA. PUBLIC WORKS. 
 
 enveloped in such whirlwinds of dust, smoke, 
 and sand, that more was left to the imagination 
 of the spectator than met the eye. 
 
 Under the inspection of an able engineer, very 
 fine roads were in course of construction in all 
 parts of the station, and a number of convicts 
 were employed in the work ; a fierce-looking but 
 industrious set of ruffians, labouring hard, in 
 chains, for the public welfare. 
 
 Under the superintendence of the same skilful 
 engineer officer, fine barracks for European regi- 
 ments have been erected, and commodious stables 
 for dragoon and native cavalry horses. 
 
 Houses at Umballa were scarce and dear ; 
 and ditto every needful article for building. 
 Many officers were obliged to send to Kurnaul 
 to purchase deserted bungalows there, and de- 
 molish them for the purpose of erecting similar 
 abodes at the new cantonment, with the materials 
 thus obtained. There were no houses in the 
 cavalry lines, and the liveliest discussions might 
 daily be heard in camp about the price of wood 
 for chokuts (door-frames), wattle, and dab, for 
 temporary buildings ; bamboos, beams, bricks, 
 and mortar, and other edifying discourse, a propos 
 to the same subject. 
 
 Furniture may be procured at a moderate price 
 
UMBALL A. MANUFACTURES. 8 1 
 
 in the upper provinces, made of what is termed 
 toon wood, and teak the Indian substitutes for 
 mahogany and oak, turned and carved very skil- 
 fully by the natives. At Barcilly, in Rohilcund, 
 sofas, chairs, cabinets (and a variety of household 
 furniture), are beautifully painted and gilt, and 
 sold for a very low price compared with similar 
 articles elsewhere. 
 
 Excellent carpets are made at the native town 
 of Umballa, called setringas ; and these are used 
 for covering the ground in tents, and occasionally 
 in bungalows also. 
 
 In the bazars a variety of European goods 
 may be purchased ; and from English merchants 
 established there wines and spirits of every de- 
 scription. 
 
 From the shops of the Parsee merchants, at all 
 the large stations through which we passed in the 
 Mofussil, every thing requisite for the table, and 
 every article of useful and ornamental furniture, is 
 procurable ; also fancy articles, of Bohemian glass, 
 silver, and carved ivory. 
 
 The box wallahs, or itinerant merchants for 
 the highways and by-ways of the Indian pro- 
 vinces, are frequent visiters in camps or canton- 
 ments, accompanied by two or more coolies, or 
 
 E 5 
 
82 ITINEEANT MERCHANTS. 
 
 bangy wallahs, laden with boxes, and huge 
 bundles wrapped in canvas, containing an almost 
 indescribable variety of goods. Rich specimens 
 of the Indian loom, and costly embroidery from 
 Delhi, mingled with faded silks and satins from 
 France and England. Mock lace and yellow 
 blonde, refuse muslins and printed cottons of 
 British manufacture. Rusty papers of pins, 
 needles, and scissors. Genuine brown Windsor 
 goap. Rowland's matchless kalydor. Elegantly 
 embossed paper, of every sentimental nuance; 
 couleur de rose, celestial blue, emerald green, and 
 evening primrose tint, suited to the most fasti- 
 dious taste, of writers of billets-doux. All, and 
 more than all these, are proudly displayed, to 
 tempt the vanity of woman ; the vender squatting 
 on the ground in the approved altitude of the 
 East, expatiating on the incomparable beauty and 
 worth of each article, and demanding the most 
 exorbitant price (whether Parsee, Mussulman, 
 or Hindoo), with all the sangfroid of a Jew. 
 
 Occasionally a wandering musician, with a 
 non-descript instrument, neither guitar, lyre, sack- 
 but, psaltery, or dulcimer favours the dwellers 
 in tents with such proofs of genius, and spe- 
 cimens of skill and taste, as are rarely met with 
 
MUSICIANS AND NAUTCH GIRLS. 83 
 
 in Europe. The artiste, with his feet drawn 
 under his knees, squats complacently on the 
 carpet, and draws forth the most excruciating 
 sounds from his ancient instrument; making at 
 the same time grimaces worthy of that master in 
 the art, his serene highness the chimpanzee, of 
 zoological notoriety. Lays of all lands are deli- 
 berately murdered ; and then in solemn gravity 
 the national anthem is played. After enduring 
 this terrible ordeal to lovers of harmony, as in 
 duty bound you cross the palm of the musician 
 with a silver token of approbation; and then, 
 with secret rejoicing, receive his salaam, on his 
 retiring from your sacred presence, to disturb the 
 peace and quiet of your neighbours. 
 
 Another painful infliction was an evening 
 exhibition of roving Nautch girls, clothed in 
 flowing draperies of the gaudiest hue, tawdry 
 tinsel, and spangles of gold and silver, with a pro- 
 fusion of armlets, anklets, bracelets, ear-rings, 
 and nose-rings, chanting in nasal melodies the 
 praise of the principal spectators, and dancing 
 with slow monotonous steps to the most unin- 
 spiring airs. Three were old and hideous as the 
 Weird Sisters ; the other two young in years, 
 but wholly destitute of the bloom and freshness 
 of girlhood. 
 
 6 
 
84 UMBALLA. SAND STOKMS. 
 
 Sand storms were of frequent occurrence at 
 Umballa : the air was suddenly darkened, and 
 the sand swept with the speed of a whirlwind 
 from the ground ; and this was frequently suc- 
 ceeded by torrents of rain. Save under these 
 circumstances, and during the hot season, a tent 
 is a delightful substitute for a house : pleasant is 
 the gipsy's home, and roving life. 
 
 At gun-fire, or daylight, the day in the East 
 commences, either with a walk, ride, or drive, 
 according to the fancy and capability of the 
 parties. A dejeuner a la fourchette succeeds, and 
 from eleven till two visits are received and made, 
 during the greatest heat of the day a most 
 irrational arrangement of time, and unwelcome 
 intrusion on valuable morning hours and better 
 occupations. After a tiffin, or luncheon, suffi- 
 ciently substantial to answer the purpose of 
 dinner, a siesta is generally indulged in. This 
 labour accomplished, the fatigue of dressing suc- 
 ceeds ; and after that important business is 
 concluded, a drive round the course follows : and 
 then the pall of night falls rapidly over the scene, 
 and the employments of the day close with a late 
 dinner. 
 
 A happy change in our destiny occurred after 
 
DEPARTUKE FROM UMBALLA. 85 
 
 we had passed a month at Umballa, when we 
 were quaking with the anticipation of the ap- 
 proaching hot season in tents. To the welcome 
 march that ensued, its accidents and incidents, 
 another chapter shall be especially dedicated. 
 
86 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 FEOM UMBALLA TO LOODIANAH, THROUGH 
 THE PROTECTED SIKH STATES. 
 
 ON the evening of a bright day in April we com- 
 menced our march towards Sirhind, and arrived 
 there early the following morning. Our tent 
 was pitched under a grove of beautiful trees, and 
 some pleasant hours were passed in exploring the 
 fine ruins in the neighbourhood. The country 
 around Sirhind is very pretty, and well cultivated. 
 A pundit was brought to the tent in the 
 evening, who examined the lines of destiny on 
 the palms of our hands with the greatest so- 
 lemnity ; predicted an accession of rank, wealth, 
 and honour; mingled a due portion of clouds 
 with sunshine ; and, after gazing intently on a 
 mysterious and dimly visible line on the thumb, 
 pronounced the writer of this journal a very grave 
 thinker, with a profound love of all serious sub- 
 jects and pursuits. One shadow has already 
 fallen as predicted, and succeeding years will re- 
 
UMBALLA TO LOODIANAH. 87 
 
 veal how far the gift of second sight was pos- 
 sessed by this ebony seer. 
 
 The next halting-place in our march bore the 
 melodious name of Kunka ke Serai, where there 
 is a travellers' bungalow, possessing the usual 
 amount of luxurious furniture and extensive ac- 
 commodation. The morning air was fresh and 
 exhilarating, and our early walk delightful. On 
 the fourth day's journey we reached Loodianah, 
 our ultimate destination. 
 
 Hamilton thus describes the origin of Loodi- 
 anah as a military station : 
 
 " In consequence of the extension of the 
 British possessions, in 1803, to the banks of the 
 Sutlej, the line of defence against the Sikhs 
 became much narrowed, and Lord Lake foretold 
 that a small corps well-stationed in that quarter 
 would effectually protect the Doab and adjoining 
 provinces, against the incursions of that tribe. 
 Loodianah was accordingly selected and fortified, 
 and, in 1808, made the head station of a brigade 
 sufficiently strong both to cover the protected 
 Sikh chiefs, and impose respect on those situated 
 north of the river." 
 
 Mr. Parbury gives the following account of 
 the river Sutlej : " Beneath the political agent's 
 mansion, is the old bed of the Sutlej, that 
 
88 LOODIAtfAH* FORT AND BAZAR. 
 
 river now flowing at some miles' distance. An 
 insignificant stream occupies a small space of it 
 hardly sufficing to float a few boats. In the 
 height of the rains only is it connected with jthe 
 main stream." 
 
 Loodianah is surrounded by a desert of sand : 
 the cantonments are confined, and their site ill 
 chosen. According to their present arrangement 
 they are only calculated to accommodate, with 
 comfort, half the number of regiments stationed 
 there. At the period of our visit the barracks 
 for European troops were not completed, and 
 only a few good houses erected in the lines ap- 
 propriated to the cavalry : for the quadrupeds of 
 the last-named corps no stables had yet been 
 built. 
 
 The fort is constructed of mud and brick. It 
 was originally built by natives, subsequently 
 altered by Europeans, and is said to possess the 
 defects of both systems of fortification without 
 the merits of either. The town has been ex- 
 tended nearly to the gates of the fort, which, 
 when we saw it, was in a dilapidated condition. 
 
 The bazar is very large and populous. The 
 Mussulmen merchants hold the best assortment 
 of goods native and European, and these are 
 among the busiest bees in the hive of operatives. 
 
ASSEMBLY ROOMS. PARADE. 89 
 
 The public assembly-rooms consist of a spacious 
 ball-room, supper-room, theatre, and green-room. 
 
 The parade is not extensive; and, from the sandy 
 nature of the ground, is unfavourable for the 
 exercise of troops. 
 
 Two evenings in the week, the bands of 
 regiments stationed at Loodianah enlivened the 
 musical community, with selections from the best 
 operas; and so great was the skill of the per- 
 formers, that the master spirits who composed 
 the airs, would hardly have recognised the beau- 
 tiful conceptions of their own genius, so much 
 were they embellished by the taste of the mu- 
 sicians. More than half the instruments were 
 certainly out of tune, but neither this, nor any 
 other evil, could daunt the energy of the band, 
 or chill its bonne volonte, and the course was 
 always fashionably attended, in honour of the 
 performance described. 
 
 Intensely dull is the drive just mentioned, of 
 almost daily occurrence, and wholly destitute of 
 all but social charms. During the hot season, no 
 verdure is visible, not a sign of vegetation to 
 refresh the eye, and only one point of interest in 
 the distance, the snowy range of the Himmalaya 
 mountains, forming the boundary of the horizon. 
 
 Near the infantry lines is the palace of the 
 
90 PALACE OP SHAH SOOJAH. 
 
 defunct king of Caubul, Shah Soojah, surrounded 
 by a high wall, possessing an extensive garden, 
 and two large compounds, or enclosures, for the 
 servants of the royal household, and abundant 
 accommodation for the live stock. The building 
 has been enlarged, metamorphosed, and modernised, 
 like the Residency at Jeypoor. The interior is 
 very picturesque, especially the centre reception 
 or drawing room, fifty-two feet in length, and 
 its latitude proportioned to its longitude. Arches 
 and pillars support the roof, and a colonnade 
 of small arches surrounds the building, forming 
 a verandah. In the centre of the garden is 
 a temple, painted al fresco, and a reservoir 
 of water ; beautiful vines bearing the finest 
 grapes, arranged with Italian taste, over light 
 trellice-work, and giving a delightful shade to 
 some of the garden walks ; a profusion of 
 flowerbeds, from the entrance gate to the pa- 
 lace, and creepers of every description, twining 
 gracefully round the verandah of a small un- 
 occupied bungalow in the garden. One of the 
 finest flowering-trees in the whole extent of 
 ground was the amultaus, which grows to the 
 size of an acacia, and in the summer season 
 bears luxuriant garlands of golden blossoms ; 
 pendant as the laburnum, but bearing a flower 
 
SHAH SOOJAH'S GARDENS. 91 
 
 of much greater size and beauty, and yielding a 
 sweeter fragrance. The seed, contained in a long 
 pod, is very valuable for medicinal purposes. 
 
 Adjoining the temple was a sweet-scented 
 shrub called Chandnee by the natives, or the 
 moon-flower, bearing rich white blossoms, looking 
 like snow-flakes, among the dark green leaves. 
 Every variety of beautiful balsam decorated the 
 garden, Cape jasmine, and roses in profusion. 
 
 A "molly," or gardener, and several coolies, 
 his assistants, were at work in the popular 
 Oriental style ; their knees on a level with the 
 nose, and a less elevated part, coming in close 
 contact with the ground. Hoeing, weeding, 
 planting, watering, are all conducted in the same 
 manner, the labourers squatting from bed to bed, 
 as if amusing themselves with a game at leap- 
 frog. 
 
 The sweeping of the house is frequently per- 
 formed in this attitude with a short hand-broom. 
 Plate and glass also are cleaned by a company of 
 Khitmutgar squatters, the footmen of the East ; 
 and the cooks arrange the dinner in like fashion. 
 
 The Scripture statement of those healed of 
 divers diseases being commanded to take up 
 their bed and walk, is frequently misunderstood 
 at home, where the writer of this journal has 
 
92 HINDOO WOMEN. 
 
 been gravely assured, that the chief part of the 
 miracle consisted in the person so addressed 
 having strength to carry a fourpost bed on his 
 shoulders. 
 
 Nothing can be lighter, or more portable, than 
 the Oriental beds. The charpoy, which is most 
 commonly used, is much lighter and smaller than 
 a French lit de sangle ; on this a blanket or 
 counterpane is spread in lieu of a mattress. The 
 greater number of servants, and the house-guard, 
 had still more simple couches ; a wadded counter- 
 pane placed on the pavement of the verandah, 
 and a bundle of clothes rolled into the form of a 
 bolster or pillow. 
 
 The women of the poorer classes grind corn, 
 work in the field and garden, and collect manure, 
 which they knead like dough, and shape into 
 round cakes for burning. They are well worked, 
 and frequently ill-treated household drudges ; 
 never permitted to taste food or drink water, 
 before the wants of their jack-masters, or hus- 
 bands, are fully satisfied. Their costume varies 
 according to their rank and circumstances. 
 The greater number of Hindoo women of the 
 basse classe, wear a full petticoat descending 
 from the hips, and a loose drapery thrown care- 
 lessly over the head and upper part of the body. 
 
HINDOO HORSEMEK. 93 
 
 The Mahomedan females wear loose trowers, and 
 the same description of covering for the head and 
 body. Their throats, arms, and ankles, are 
 heavily laden with tawdry ornaments, painted 
 every hue of the rainbow, and thickly covered 
 with gilding. Their hair is redolent of ghee and 
 oil, and their tout ensemble most unprepossessing. 
 The children generally wear no other garment 
 than that with which nature furnished them, and 
 few among the swarms that congregate in the 
 bazars are gifted with any beauty. The good 
 looks of the women are early lost, and in their 
 old age they become hideous. 
 
 The men, generally speaking, have good features 
 and figures. The finest we saw were the 
 officers and men of the regiments of irregular 
 cavalry stationed at Loodianah and Ferozepoor. 
 They are unrivalled horsemen, and perform the 
 most daring feats with matchless sang froid, 
 mounted on fiery chargers, whose spirit would 
 seem invincible in other hands. The riders look 
 as if no combination of human powers could daunt 
 their courage, and no spirits of the air, be they 
 black, grey, or white, make their bold hearts quail. 
 It seems as if fire were their element, and the 
 cannon's roar sweet music to them. 
 
 A brilliant review took place, not long after 
 
94 LOODIANAH. AMATEUR PLAY. 
 
 our arrival, of some of the finest troops in the 
 service. The strut majestic and salute of the 
 native officers was quite unique. 
 
 An amateur play was also performed, during 
 our residence at Loodianah, in a style worthy of 
 the London boards. An artillery officer evi- 
 denced as much genius in the part of Dr. Ollipod, 
 as if the stage had been his peculiar vocation. 
 Sir Matthew Bramble was admirably represented 
 by one with whom the drama of life soon after 
 prematurely closed. The difficult task of genteel 
 comedy was consigned to a young ensign, and 
 the character of Sir Charles Cropland was sus- 
 tained throughout in the most able manner. No 
 experienced actor could have done greater justice 
 to the part. 
 
 A young lieutenant, with a handsome face, but 
 deep bass voice, and most unfeminine air and 
 manner, personated Emily Worthington. 
 
 The part of Miss Lucretia Mac Tab was per- 
 formed with very great spirit and applause by an 
 infantry officer. 
 
 In a laughable farce which succeeded, two 
 young ladies were represented by gawky ser- 
 geants, who made their first awkward entree with 
 red bony hands stuck fast in the pockets of their 
 fancy aprons. More painfully vulgar represent- 
 
LOODIANAH. EXTREME HEAT. 95 
 
 ations of womankind it would be difficult to meet 
 with. 
 
 The frog hornpipe was danced with inimitable 
 skill, as an interlude, by a stout gentleman of 
 Dutch descent, one of the most good-humoured, 
 benevolent, and facetious spirits at the station. 
 
 We passed some months at Loodianah, which 
 is universally considered one of the hottest sta- 
 tions in the upper provinces of India. No verbal 
 description can convey an adequate idea of the 
 intense overwhelming heat we there experienced, 
 during the very worst season on record for 
 twenty-five or thirty years. Even those born in 
 the land of the sun, who had never quitted their 
 native country, were keen sufferers. 
 
 The tatties and punkahs were in constant use. 
 The former are mats of kuskus, the root of a 
 particular kind of grass, placed before the open 
 glass doors of the house, and kept continually 
 wet. The punkah looks like a door taken off its 
 hinges, slung transversely from the ceiling, kept 
 in continual movement by means of a rope pulled 
 by servants, and producing a gentle breeze. Still 
 the thermometer, in the largest and loftiest room 
 in the house, was rarely under 90 or 95. 
 , The heat at night seemed even still more 
 overpowering; though every door and window 
 
96 LOODIANAH. LOCUSTS. 
 
 was wide open, the heat was suffocating. For three 
 months the air inhaled seemed like a blast of the 
 simoom. And then succeeded one week only of 
 refreshing rain, pouring in tropical torrents from 
 the heavily laden clouds. The season of rain, 
 enduring generally three months, was this year 
 limited to seven days, leaving the thirst of the 
 earth unquenched, and the dwellers thereon 
 parched, and destitute even of the dew of heaven. 
 The flights of locusts are worse than the flies 
 of Egyptian celebrity. They come as clouds on 
 a stormy day, darkening the whole atmosphere, 
 and resemble large grasshoppers with wings; 
 their colour varies, some being bright yellow, 
 others of a reddish brown. The natives of India 
 eat them fried and in curries. Their approach is 
 immediately made known by the loud clattering 
 of their wings in flying through the air ; also by 
 an unusual commotion among the servants of the 
 household; a hooting, yelling, screaming, and 
 shouting, worthy of a horde of New Zealand 
 savages ; with the firing of guns, and every avail- 
 able invention for the disturbance of the com- 
 munity, and the intimidation of the dreaded 
 myriads of <( teedies," as they are termed by the 
 natives. The devastation caused by these insect 
 armies is fearful. 
 
LOODIANAH. THE THEATRE. 97 
 
 The chits, as they are termed in India, or 
 notes, are almost as great an infliction as the 
 swarms of locusts : they are sent by every friend 
 and acquaintance instead of verbal messages 
 (which cannot be conveyed by native servants) ; 
 and are terrible consumers of time, both in read- 
 ing, writing, and answering. 
 
 The night we attended the theatre at Loo- 
 dianah, one of the sons of the late king of 
 Caubul, Shah Soojah, honoured the performance 
 with his presence, a handsome intelligent-look- 
 ing man, superbly dressed, and wearing magnifi- 
 cent jewels in his cap. He looked like a bandit 
 chief. 
 
 Many members of the late king's family reside 
 in the vicinity of the Sutlej. Timour, the eldest 
 son, lives at Ferozepoor, and is generally con- 
 sidered one of the best of the clan, and firmer in 
 his attachment to British interests than the 
 others, who were either secret intriguers, or in 
 open rebellion against their father and our govern- 
 ment. 
 
 Shah Soojah was for some time a prisoner of 
 
 Runjeet Singh, late ruler or king of the Pun- 
 
 jaub, who governed his extensive dominions 
 
 wisely for many years, and controlled the turbu- 
 
 F 
 
98 SOCIETY AT LOODIANAH. 
 
 lent and sanguinary spirits who have all revolted 
 since his death. He could neither read nor 
 write, and had only acquired the single accom- 
 plishment of making a mark as a signature for 
 his name. 
 
 The society at Loodianah consisted chiefly of 
 military men ; members of the medical profession 
 attached to the Bengal service ; officers holding 
 political appointments; and, latterly, an agree- 
 able and excellent clergyman of the Church of 
 England, his accomplished wife; and about a 
 dozen other ladies. 
 
 The term " Anglo-Indian" at home, alias 
 in England, is generally associated with liver 
 complaint, bile, jaundice the very essence of 
 dulness, and emblem of ennui. He is considered 
 to possess few accomplishments beyond smoking 
 a hookah, abusing the natives, discussing the 
 policy of India or the affairs of a regiment. And 
 J have known some illustrious literary characters 
 refuse invitations to dinner, on hearing that 
 Indians were to be among the guests. 
 
 I can only record a very brief acquaintance 
 
 with society in India ; but, commencing at Bom- 
 
 : bay, and concluding at a distant frontier station, 
 
 I record with pleasure my individual experience 
 
 and personal knowledge of gentlemen in the 
 
SOCIETY IN INDIA. 90 
 
 most refined sense of the word, with as much 
 intelligence and cultivated talent, among officers 
 in regiments on East Indian service, as a re- 
 union in London or Paris would furnish, among 
 as large a body of men of more peaceful calling 
 and pursuits. 
 
 What a witty writer in the New Monthly 
 terms a " snobocracy," exists at home, abroad, in 
 every quarter of the globe; and doubtless a 
 branch of that widely extended society may be 
 met with by the curiosity hunters of social life in 
 India, as elsewhere. But the wheat predominates 
 over the tares. There may be, and doubtless 
 are, many in our vast Indian possessions who 
 appear to do little else than 
 
 " Eat, drink, sleep, what then ? 
 Why eat, and drink, and sleep again." 
 
 But an equally unintellectual existence is also led 
 by many in enlightened England. 
 
 And the ladies of the East? There were but 
 few, in our long pilgrimage, of whom we gained 
 an intimate knowledge ; and these were wive* 
 and mothers, worthy of all the blessedness of an 
 English home ; sensible and cultivated women, 
 intelligent companions, and agreeable friends. 
 
 Shadows, as well as lights, were occasionally 
 
 F 2 
 
100 MISSIONARY STATION. 
 
 reflected on our path ; but these were passing 
 visions, and too uninteresting to win an after 
 record. 
 
 Beyond the bazar at Loodianah is an Ame- 
 rican missionary station, the houses, chapel, and 
 school belonging to which are well constructed 
 and neatly arranged. Faithful missionaries had 
 here laboured for some years, but the work of 
 conversion had progressed slowly; notwithstand- 
 ing the unremitting zeal of the husbandmen, a 
 scanty harvest had been reaped. 
 
 The Scriptures are very widely distributed in 
 India, and their extensive circulation is an ef- 
 fectual means of preparing the minds of the 
 people for the reception of Christian truth. In 
 illustration of this assertion the remarks of an 
 intelligent native of Delhi may be quoted, who 
 said to a clergyman there, " You give your 
 books without a threat, and without a bribe, and 
 the men are neither terrified nor allured. You 
 see nothing of them, and it may be you hear 
 nothing. They die, and perhaps have not been 
 changed in their mind by your books ; but the 
 books die not. Their children come to the pos- 
 session of them, and argue, e Our fathers ac- 
 cepted these books, and kept them till death ; 
 there must be something good in them. Our 
 
DISTRIBUTION OF THE BIBLE. 101 
 
 fathers, perhaps, intended we should read them, 
 and we will.' Thus, by long patience in pursuing 
 this plan, you wisely secure the changing of the 
 minds of the children of those who take your 
 books." Calcutta Missionary Herald. 
 
 In a letter from the Kev. Dr. Duff to the 
 Committee of the Bible Association, is the fol- 
 lowing passage : " As to the general willingness 
 of the natives in the city and neighbourhood of 
 Calcutta to receive copies of the Scriptures, there 
 can be no doubt. Whatever repugnance may at 
 one time have existed, it has now for the most 
 part disappeared. I not only find natives willing 
 to receive copies when offered to them, but very 
 frequently they ask for copies, both in English 
 and Bengali." A clergyman resident at Dacca, 
 writing to the committee above-named, makes the 
 following observation : " There is a very marked 
 change in the Hindoos and the Mahomedans ; 
 the result, we believe, of a very liberal dispersion 
 of the sacred Scriptures. We cannot speak of 
 conversions, but we do hope that the public mind 
 is preparing for a great revolution in favour of 
 the Gospel." 
 
 The Eev. R. H. Wilson of Tuttighur, in a 
 report to the committee, mentions a large distri- 
 bution of the Bible in Hindoo and Urdu ; and 
 
 F 3 
 

 102 CALCUTTA BIBLE SOCIETY. 
 
 Persian testaments, chiefly to learned Maho- 
 medans ; and the great anxiety of the people in 
 the surrounding towns and villages, to receive and 
 read the word of God. 
 
 Three Hindoo candidates for admission into 
 the Lai Bazar church, ascribed their change of 
 sentiments to the fact that, while the Hindoo 
 shasters could tell them nothing of a way of salva- 
 tion, the Christian Scriptures pointed definitely 
 and clearly to a Saviour able to save. 
 
 The languages spoken or written throughout 
 the provinces, from the Burhamputer to the 
 Indus, are principally the Bengali, the Uriya, 
 the Hindoo, the Persian, and the Punjaubi. In 
 most of these there are versions of the entire, or 
 at least portions, of the Sciptures ; and thus far 
 the work has not only commenced, but a great 
 advance has actually been made. 
 
 From the Bible Society of Calcutta the issues 
 of the year 1833 amounted to 55,630 volumes; 
 making, since the commencement of the society's 
 operations, the total of 439,987 copies. 
 
 The greater number of conversions occur 
 among the orphan children of the schools at 
 various stations. 
 
 At Loodianah, the number of natives converted 
 to Christianity, in a period of eight years, 
 
NATIVES. LETTERS AND ACCOUNTS. 103 
 
 amounted to about fifteen ; among those were 
 two women, and some of the orphan children, 
 under the care of the kind-hearted and zealous 
 Americans established there. 
 
 The church at this station is commodious, but 
 not handsome. 
 
 The following specimens of letter-writing and 
 accounts are introduced for the amusement of 
 English readers ; and to show the attainments of 
 the natives of India after many years' instruction 
 and study. One of the correspondents was an 
 old Calcutta baboo, or English writer, who had 
 earned his livelihood for thirty years by writing. 
 Another was a pay duffadar, or sergeant, who had 
 been educated at the Delhi College, and was a 
 contemporary of Mohun Lai's. Another the 
 scholar of a very intelligent missionary teacher, 
 who had devoted much time to the instruction of 
 his pupil. 
 
 The accounts were written by a Parsee butler, 
 who received a good education at Bombay, and 
 was considered a clever man. The ideas of the 
 natives shoot but slowly ; and they have evidently 
 no genius for composition, though extremely 
 faithful and exact as copyists. They excel in copy- 
 ing music, writing, and minute painting. Their 
 medallions of mosques, mausoleums, and archi- 
 
 F 4 
 
1 04 NATIVES. LETTERS. 
 
 tectural subjects generally, are executed very 
 skilfully. 
 
 (No. 1.) 
 
 " Worthy Master, Worthyst Protector. 
 
 " With the greatest submission, humbly beg 
 to present respectful compliment to your honor, 
 and to state that on the 20th May last, cholera 
 attacked on me, but merciful God escaped me 
 from the accident, as yet not regained the strength, 
 and hope my worthy master, with greatest plea- 
 sure, prosperous and good health ! 
 
 " I constant practice to hard work, and to keep 
 honest and depend on every thing, to our Heavenly 
 Father, Since 1837, I am marching with the 
 corps, all round the Bheel country, Affghanistan, 
 and the late campaign at Gwalior, whereby I 
 become perfectly ruinous state of condition, by 
 every means I am out of all purposes. 
 
 " I am sorry to bring to your notice, the system 
 adopted by me, on happening in very close to the 
 troops at Maharajpore, at the moment the fight 
 commenced, is prosperous on any way to private 
 servants, but Almighty God preserved from that 
 danger. I resolved myself to be aside. The 
 government and commander-in-chief much ap- 
 plauded to have observed the good conduct of this 
 regiment. 
 
NATIVES. LETTERS. 1 05 
 
 " Three times rain fallen at this place, but too 
 
 hot, grain cheap, very little sick. B now a 
 
 good luck, his honesty daily increasing, often 
 uses gentleman's durbar. H. M. is going with 
 a pension, all your doing and kind, not only 
 that, but favourable light towards many people 
 in the world. Pray merciful God place you on 
 deserving seat. 
 
 " Honoured Sir, 
 
 " Your most humble Servant, 
 
 " K. G." 
 
 (No. 2.) 
 " Sir, 
 
 " You know well you did to all your crea- 
 tures, much better also beyond their power, 
 but through avarice and selfishness are not still 
 satisfied. I beg to say that I am bread up under 
 your kind treatment from infancy, to this age 
 depending, and thank you faithfully. With my 
 slam all the European officers in this regiment 
 are enjoying their health, the climate of this has 
 been spoiled extremely for men and horses. 
 
 " All your devoted servants here beg you to 
 receive their slams. I shall be very lucky to see 
 you and Mam Sahib. 
 
 " P. R. K" 
 
 F 5 
 
106 NATIVES. LETTERS AND ACCOUNTS. 
 
 (No. 3.) 
 " Honored Sir, 
 
 " I beg to lay my respectful compliments to your 
 honor. Hope Almighty keep you with prosperous. 
 It is a great sorrow to remind, that the recom- 
 mendation you was graciously and kindly to give 
 to C. D. S. Esqr. does not effected through my 
 unfortunate. All God please. 
 
 " I have also to inform your honor you was 
 obliged by every means to assist, thereby I was 
 respectfully maintained and my families. 
 
 " The Gwalior battle put me into sorrowful, by 
 suffering double expences, praying to our Saviour 
 and considering the past time. Hope God reach 
 you soon to the next grade. Having been elapsed 
 fourteen years didn't seen my old mother, day and 
 night weeping, for also sorry we have no children. 
 
 " Your humble Servant, 
 " E. G." 
 
 Part of a khansamah's (butler or head servant) 
 account in English of table expenses : 
 
 ACCOUNT. INTERPRETATION. 
 
 No. 2 of fowls best. 
 Az in-glass. 
 2 doz. of pups ! 
 2 doz. of tart-less. 
 
 2 of the best fowls. 
 Isinglass. 
 Puffs of pastry. 
 Tartlets, 
 
< NATIVES. LETTEK8 AND ACCOUNTS. 107 
 
 ACCOUNT. 
 
 2 doz. of oyster pots. 
 
 Muckrony. 
 
 Wurmsulee. 
 
 2 do. bisekot. 
 
 Ganger. 
 
 Garlet. 
 
 Chelly. 
 
 INTERPRETATION. 
 
 Oyster patties. 
 
 Maccaroni. 
 
 Vermicelli. 
 
 Biscuits. 
 
 Ginger. 
 
 Garlic. 
 
 Jelly. 
 
 Purchases made by the same servant : 
 
 Cuted tumlers. 
 Wine glass cuted. 
 Pamplet pickle in cake. 
 One got. 
 Fooding for got. 
 One tamran fish cake. 
 
 1 cake magoes pukle. 
 
 Tumblers of cut glass. 
 
 Cut wine glasses. 
 
 1 keg of pickled pomfret. 
 
 1 goat. 
 
 Food for the goat. 
 
 1 keg of preserved tamarind 
 
 fish. 
 1 keg of mangoe pickle. 
 
 (No. 4.) 
 
 " Most Gracious, 
 
 " I humbly beg to request the favor of your pro- 
 mise, regarding my eldest son, my soul intention 
 to place him in the government school, as gratis 
 as your honor are well acquainted with my poor 
 circumstances. I therefore beg leave to crave 
 your honor that a good recommendation from 
 you on this subject will be a lively blessing towards 
 your family. My fervent wish, that your honor 
 will remember or look me with the same eye of 
 
 F 6 
 
1 08 NATIVES. LETTERS. 
 
 favor, as I had been exprinced before on my 
 arrival. 
 
 " I shall commence my navigation from this or at 
 Agra, till I shall be favored from you. My humble 
 compliments towards her ladyship your noble 
 wife, I always praying to Almighty God for your 
 long life and prosperity, and with cheerful health 
 and spirit I remain, 
 
 " Most Gracious, 
 
 " Your humble Servant, 
 
 H. B." 
 
 The originals of the two following letters were 
 given us by a friend at Loodianah, endowed with 
 a keen perception of the ridiculous. 
 
 (Nos. 5, 6.) 
 
 " My Master, 
 
 " J have the pleasure to declare my thoughts in 
 regard to you, and General J. Sir yesterday before 
 day while I was in your house, and spoke great 
 deal about my circumstance to you, you answered 
 me that perhaps you are unthankful, with that 
 kindness what I and the General have shewn. 
 But to think so Sir, it is almost unnecessary, be- 
 cause I always pray to my Heavenly Father, that 
 he may enlighten your and GeneralJ.'s bodies, like 
 
NATIVES. LETTERS. 1 09 
 
 the angels of Heaven, and may teach and prosper 
 you, so that there may be no more need that I 
 may go any another place for search of any thing. 
 If my Heavenly Father make me successful in re- 
 ceiving your and General J.'s kindness, I have 
 hope in a few days then I will be like a garden to 
 cheer your and the General's heart. And you 
 have spoken, that I have seen many persons not 
 like you. It is right and I think there are few 
 like me. Sir my love to your amiable and 
 palatable feet for ever, 
 
 " Your poor affectionate, 
 
 " R." 
 
 " Honored Sir, 
 
 " That your memoralists having been thrown out 
 of employment is in a state of destitution, and 
 having heard that thousands are provided with 
 the situations through your honor's clemency, he 
 therefore hope that you be pleased to be use your 
 influence, in procuring his humble memorial the 
 means of earning a livelihood, and very thankful 
 should you kind enough to grant me the above 
 favor, as a bit of food under the shelter of your 
 protection, or will look down with an eye of com- 
 passion on my behalf by so granting, it will be 
 for to support of my family, wishing with my 
 
110 NATIVES. LETTERS. 
 
 heart blessing to Almighty God, will give you 
 welfare and prosperity in heaven. Kind Sir, I 
 hope you will excuse or take no notice of me 
 writing at you in such a style, for indeed not 
 know what I have done wrong or right, 
 
 " Your humble Petitioner, 
 
 S. Writer." 
 (Native Sepoy his Son.) 
 May 1844." 
 
Ill 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE SUTLEJ AND INDUS, 
 THROUGH SCINDE TO BOMBAY. 
 
 WE left Loodianah on the 22nd of September, 
 at which time, from want of rain during the last 
 season, the river was very low. Owing to this, 
 and having a strong wind in our teeth, we made 
 but slow progress. 
 
 The boats in use on the Sutlej and Indus 
 resemble a Thames coal barge : the best are 
 heavy ; and, though well adapted to the pecu- 
 liarities of the river, they are ill calculated for any 
 traveller whose object is an expeditious convey- 
 ance. The size, of course, varies greatly, and is 
 selected according to the extent of accommoda- 
 tion required. Ours was one of 1000 maunds, 
 equal to about 36 tons. "In small boats a long 
 rudder serves also as a paddle, and the steers- 
 man is elevated sufficiently to watch the true 
 course of the stream. The oars are most un- 
 wieldy and badly managed, and look as if they 
 
112 SUTLEJ AND INDUS. BOATS. 
 
 had been constructed in Brobdignag, or in the 
 days of the giants. Six men worked at each, 
 and our average speed was two miles and a half 
 an hour! The stem and stern of the boat are 
 raised, and the space between allotted to the 
 passengers, except a few feet in the centre, kept 
 for baling out water^ of which there is generally 
 an abundant supply. 
 
 The sides of the three cabins in our boat were 
 formed by bamboos, the roof of strong reedy 
 grass. The centre room was our salon and dor- 
 mitory ; a small one in the rear was occupied by 
 a European female servant, a large colony of rats, 
 and a store of provisions for the voyage. The 
 latter, fortunately for us, were not such as pleased 
 the taste of the greedy gentry just named, and 
 remained untouched, while vigorous inroads were 
 made on the sacks of flour, &c. belonging to our 
 native servants. 
 
 The cooking operations were carried on in a 
 small room in the fore-part of the vessel ; and we 
 were hourly diverted with various musical sounds, 
 emitted from the throats of fowls, sheep, goats, 
 kids, and all other quadrupeds and bipeds admitted 
 into our second Noah's Ark. 
 
 The thatch, or chopper, is by no means im- 
 pervious to rain, or a sufficient shelter from the 
 
BOATS ON THE SUTLEJ. 113 
 
 terrific heat of an Indian sun. Though the 
 regular season for hot winds was passed, they 
 prevailed for many days during our voyage with 
 intolerable heat ; the thermometer ranging be- 
 tween 95 and 100 after noon, during the month 
 of September ; while before and after sunrise the 
 air was keen, even cold. 
 
 The boats generally carry one large sail when 
 the breeze is favourable. They have no anchors, 
 and bring to at night by means of a staff and 
 rope ; the latter fastened to the head of the vessel, 
 and the former taken on shore, and pointed dia- 
 gonally towards the earth; the stream, at the 
 same time taking the boat down, forces in the 
 staff until it is far enough to hold ; and this is 
 termed lugaoing. 
 
 The first day we brought to near Humber, a 
 distance of ten coss, or twenty miles ; and dined 
 on shore, to the delight and edification of a host 
 of ebony villagers, who watched most intently 
 the mysterious communication of spoons and forks 
 with our mouths, and other wonders of civilisa- 
 tion. 
 
 During our evening walk we saw nothing but 
 a profusion of the wild caper; a very pretty 
 shrub, with pink flowers, shaped like the fuschia. 
 At daybreak, on the 23rd, we quitted our resting- 
 
114 FEROZEPOOK. 
 
 place, having as yet met with no scenery on the 
 Sutlej worthy of notice low flat banks on 
 either side, with a little Indian corn at intervals ; 
 and no objects of any interest, save large herds of 
 fat buffaloes, performing their ablutions in the 
 river. We passed the night near a small Sikh 
 village, our progress during the day being, as 
 before, twenty miles. The following morning, 
 at the dawn of day, we started for Ferozepoor, 
 and reached the Ghaut, some little distance from 
 the cantonment, on the evening of the same day. 
 
 Here the hire of the boats is paid in advance, 
 and varies according to their scarcity at the time 
 of engagement. 
 
 The store of provisions is increased at Feroze- 
 poor as much fresh meat and bread as will keep 
 good : the latter in a few days becomes unpalat- 
 able, and the Indian fare of chepatties must be 
 substituted a thin cake made of flour and water, 
 sometimes improved by the addition of a little 
 butter. Preserved soups and meats, dried fruits, 
 eggs, and rice, are the most useful stores. 
 
 On the 26th we were baffled by a strong head 
 wind, which caused a detention of four hours. 
 The boats are incapable of facing an adverse 
 breeze, even with the current in their favour, and 
 
VOYAGE DOWN THE SUTLEJ. 115 
 
 are obliged to bring to till the return of a favour- 
 able wind. 
 
 At daybreak on the 27th we pursued our 
 course. The Sutlej is very tortuous, and the 
 sand-banks in all parts of the stream continually 
 impede the progress of the boat ; they are of all 
 forms and sizes, frequently so numerous and 
 extensive as to render it difficult to judge cor- 
 rectly of the true course of the river. The 
 deepest water is generally to be met with under 
 the banks. 
 
 The only sight which enlivened our monotonous 
 voyage on the succeeding day was a large party 
 of alligators basking in the warm sunshine. We 
 brought to on the protected Sikh shore, in the 
 agreeable vicinity of a quicksand. 
 
 Our crew were a merry set of dandies ; and 
 Rubini or Mario would have listened with jealous 
 ears to the maungy, or principal boatman, r war- 
 bling in most thrilling tones the melodies of the 
 East. The costume of these gentry is only a 
 slight improvement on the fig leaves which graced 
 the forms of Adam and Eve ; a quarter of a yard 
 of coarse cloth, nominally white, decorates the 
 loins, and that, sometimes, of a very holy nature. 
 
 On the 29th we started, after a glorious sun- 
 rise, and made very favourable progress during 
 
116 THE SUTLEJ. BUWHALPOOK. 
 
 the day; the boats never proceed after sunset. 
 The river has made great inroads on the banks, 
 and immense masses were falling in every direction. 
 The tamarisk tree abounds in the vicinity of the 
 Sutlej a kind of light feathery-looking fir; at a 
 distance it seems covered with sprigs of coral, the 
 termination of every branch being of that colour, 
 varying from the rest of the tree, which is dark 
 green. In bringing to for the night we carefully 
 avoided the Punjaub shore, on account of the 
 probable attacks of robbers. 
 
 The last day of September was one of fear- 
 ful heat, annihilating every energy of mind and 
 body. As a natural consequence, probably, the 
 maungy was invincibly sulky, and his men hope- 
 lessly lazy. The sand-banks were crowded with 
 white storks, which assemble in such numbers 
 that they give the distant banks the appearance 
 of a mass of chalk. 
 
 On the 2nd of October, we passed the busy 
 Ghaut of Buwhalpoor ; a terrific hot wind pre- 
 vailed, and prevented a contemplated excursion to 
 the town, which is not visible from the river. It 
 is described as a clean, good, and prosperous town, 
 with a few fine gardens, arranged in the Persian 
 style. There are several establishments for the 
 manufacture of silk and cotton goods, for which 
 
QUICKSANDS. CHARCHAR. 117 
 
 a ready sale is obtained. The men employed 
 work in large sheds, open in front, and seem in a 
 more flourishing condition than the weaver class 
 of operatives in Great Britain. 
 
 There are no European residents at Buwhal- 
 poor ; but any aid that passengers may require, 
 can be procured from the agent to the political 
 authorities at Ferozepoor. 
 
 A most merciless hot wind again prevailed on 
 the 3rd ; enormous masses of the banks on either 
 side fell in every direction ; and we were con- 
 sequently treated with a bountiful supply of sand 
 and dust. The maungy steered badly, and lodged 
 the boat in a bed of quicksands, from which we 
 had considerable difficulty in making our escape. 
 The crew working vigorously with poles, at 
 length released us. Towards evening the Soliman 
 range of mountains in Afghanistan was visible, 
 extending through about forty degrees of the 
 horizon ; the latter and most lofty portion being 
 distant about eighty-five miles. 
 
 At four, on the morning of the 4th, we left 
 our resting-place, observed the junction of the 
 river Chenab with the Sutlej, and made rapid 
 progress during the day, owing to the unusual 
 straightness of the stream. The junction of 
 the Indus and Sutlej takes place near Charchar, 
 
118 THE INDUS. 
 
 a thickly populated mud-built village; opposite 
 to which is Mittun Khote, supposed by Sir 
 Alexander Burnes to occupy the site of one of 
 the Grecian cities, as the advantage of its position 
 for commerce attracted the attention of Alexander 
 the Great. 
 
 We stopped near Charchar at sunset, the 
 Affghan range of mountains before mentioned 
 forming our horizon ; and the unfriendly Sikh 
 coast was vis-a-vis to our location. 
 
 Nothing worthy of record occurred on the 
 5th, save that we saw some splendid specimens 
 of that fat marine pig, 'yclept a porpoise, emer- 
 ging for barely a second from their watery bed, 
 and then disappearing with lightning speed. As 
 yet the scenery on the Indus was as uninteresting 
 and flat as that of its sister-stream, the Sutlej 
 the same low banks and sandy plains that have 
 wearied our optical organs, ever since we quitted 
 Loodianah. 
 
 On approaching Sukkhur, the soil assumes a 
 more fertile appearance ; and from the firmer 
 texture of the bank, the huts are built within a 
 few feet of it, while corn is growing, and cattle 
 safely grazing on its very verge. 
 
 The fort of Bukhur is first visible, then the 
 town of Roree, a forest of palm trees, and 
 
THE INDUS. SUKKHUR. 119 
 
 Sukkhur on the right. The fort is constructed of 
 sun-burnt bricks, which look as if they would 
 crumble into dust, without the application of any 
 other force than the destroying influence of time. 
 It is long, low, and very penetrable in appearance. 
 The town of Roree consists of a succession of 
 mud tenements, with flat roofs ; and the windows 
 look like loopholes, for the admission of one ray 
 of light, and one breath of air. The groves of 
 luxuriant date, palm, and fine mimosa trees, give 
 an Oriental beauty to the three celebrated places 
 above-mentioned. 
 
 Approaching Sukkhur from the river, only one 
 rather handsome looking dwelling-house is visible, 
 namely the Residency. 
 
 The glare was intense, the heat fervent, and 
 the wide plains of sand reminded us of Egypt. 
 There is one large mosque at Bukhur, bearing 
 the marks of ancient grandeur, but now mostly 
 in ruins, and no part of it is used for worship by 
 the Mussulmen. The fort bears the appearance of 
 great antiquity, and is supposed to be the Mun- 
 soora of the ancients. The state of its battlements 
 may be imagined, when it is related that the firing 
 of the mid-day gun did so much injury to them, 
 that the practice was discontinued, and the signal 
 
120 PASSAGE DOWN THE INDUS. 
 
 is given from a small battery, crowning an 
 eminence above Sukkhur. 
 
 Sukkhur has evidently been a place of great 
 importance in ancient days. Countless tombs 
 are to be seen in all directions. 
 
 From April to August, the thermometer fre- 
 quently ranges between 120 and 130 : and with 
 every artificial mode of lowering the temperature, 
 few are successful in reducing it much below 90. 
 
 Roree is only a native town, and stands on a 
 flinty precipice, some of the houses overhanging 
 the river, and others sloping inland; a small 
 harbour gives shelter to a large fleet of boats, 
 beyond which is a thick grove of date trees. 
 
 At Sukkhur fresh supplies of every description 
 can be procured, and an ample store was laid in 
 for the journey to the mouth of the river, and 
 from thence to Bombay. On the 9th we were 
 once more en route. The scenery on the Indus 
 was as devoid of interest as before a long range 
 of low sand-banks, with a little stunted brush- 
 wood at intervals. The river itself is a broad 
 and noble stream. A blithe song from the 
 dandies was all that enlivened the weary hours 
 of the day. They were a dirty-looking set of 
 musicians, with hair intensely black, redolent of 
 grease, and shining like that of the slaves exposed 
 
BOLAN PASS. SCHWAtf. 121 
 
 for sale in the market of old Cairo. The Hala 
 mountains were visible when we stopped for the 
 evening ; in these is the celebrated Bolan Pass, 
 crossed by the army of the Indus on its march 
 into Afghanistan. 
 
 Every two hours during the night, our rest was 
 disturbed by what is termed a strong backwater. 
 
 The following morning an improvement in the 
 scenery gladdened our weary eyes ; the left bank 
 of the river was prettily wooded, and the stream 
 much broader than any part of the Nile over 
 which we had passed in journeying through Egypt. 
 The boat of a poor fisherman came sufficiently 
 near us to admit purchases being made, where- 
 with to regale the dandies and domestics, to say 
 nothing of our worthy selves. Two enormous 
 fishes were offered for one rupee; and the fisher- 
 man smiled and salaamed gratefully, as if such 
 silvery tokens of Dame Fortune's favour were 
 rare indeed. We passed Schwan early in the 
 day's course, an ancient Grecian town; in front 
 is the Lukkie range of mountains which ter- 
 minates near the town. The houses being flat- 
 roofed, small, low, and built of mud, the appear- 
 ance of the town is not very picturesque. There 
 are various ruined tombs in the vicinity, and the 
 remains of an old castle. 
 G 
 
122 PERSIAN WATERWHEEL. 
 
 The scenery improves rapidly beyond Schwan ; 
 a wild range of rocky hills, on the right bank of 
 the Indus, is diversified at intervals by creepers 
 of every shade of rich beautiful green. On the 
 left bank more signs of cultivation appeared than 
 we had yet seen. The tamarisk and a variety 
 of green shrubs grow down to the water's edge. 
 
 The Persian water-wheels were plying vigo- 
 rously, groaning and creaking on the left bank of 
 the river. It would be a great relief to European 
 ears, if a law were passed, obliging the villagers 
 to bestow a sufficient portion of grease on these 
 machines to prevent the anti-melodious sounds 
 which now issue from them. A deep well is 
 sunk in the bank close to the river, and a small 
 canal cut to communicate therewith, whereby 
 the one is always as high as the other ; over this 
 well is a strong, roughly made, upright wheel, 
 round which is a double strap, with from forty 
 to fifty earthen vessels (called kedgeree pots), 
 firmly fixed thereto ; a horizontal wheel alongside 
 turned by two oxen, or one strong buffalo, blind- 
 folded, acts upon the spokes of a small upright 
 wheel, which sets the large one in motion ; the 
 earthen vessels descend into the well with their 
 mouths downwards, return reversed and full, and 
 at the point of again descending, a trough receives 
 
GAME PRESERVES. HYDKABAD, 12 3 
 
 their contents, which small channels in the ground 
 convey to the requisite distance. 
 
 Our nocturnal visiters in the boat were an 
 increasing annoyance; swarms of mosquitoes of 
 extraordinary dimensions, legions of immense 
 bandy coots, racing in ilka quarter, and running 
 ad libitum over the forms and faces of the 
 sleeping domestics, who were unblessed with 
 couches to raise them above the ground. Besides 
 these hordes of nimble rats, we were tormented 
 with other unmentionable foes to rest. 
 
 We passed the finest shikargahs, or game 
 preserves, that we had yet seen, on the left bank 
 of the Indus ; some of these forests are miles in 
 extent, and were formerly kept strictly for the 
 exclusive use of the Ameers. 
 
 Many of the natives appeared to great advantage 
 in the Scindian cap ; and as we approached Hy- 
 drabad, more signs of life and cultivation were 
 evident. We anchored at Kotra, opposite the 
 Ghaut of Hydrabad, at sunset. The latter is 
 two hundred and sixty-five miles from Sukkhur. 
 A scorching hot wind prevailed, which prevented 
 our leaving the boat to visit the capital of Scinde, 
 which is represented as a very extensive place, 
 and in its bazar not only the necessaries, but 
 almost all the luxuries, of life can be procured. 
 a 2 
 
124 PASSAGE DOWN THE INDUS, 
 
 The fort is described by Dr. Burnes as a paltry 
 erection of ill-burnt bricks, crumbling gradually 
 to decay, and incapable of withstanding, for an 
 hour, the attack of regular troops. 
 
 During the inundations Hydrabad is all but 
 surrounded by a branch of the Indus, which at 
 other seasons is nearly dry. 
 
 The cattle in Scinde, which are very superior 
 in size, colour, and general appearance to the half- 
 starved cattle of Bengal, are seen in herds on the 
 banks of the river. Camels were employed at 
 the Persian wheels, and seemed larger and finer 
 than any we had hitherto seen. 
 
 At Kotra we were taken in tow by a steamer 
 belonging to the Indus flotilla. A strong wind 
 in our teeth would otherwise have detained us 
 some hours. There was a great improvement in 
 the scenery after passing Kotra : rich, green, 
 extensive, and beautiful woods on the right bank 
 of the Indus ; on the left, a few low hills, villages, 
 and herds of cattle. 
 
 We were more than once alarmed by our boat 
 coming into violent contact with the steamer, 
 which ran aground; the shock was so sudden that 
 two persons, who were quietly seated at table, 
 fell from their arm-chairs to the floor. 
 
 On the 14th we brought to, opposite Tatta, 
 
MOUTH OF THE INDUS. 125 
 
 seventy miles from Hydrabad; no view of the 
 place is obtainable from the river. The wind 
 continued strong in our teeth, the river was in 
 great commotion, and heavy waves dashed in- 
 cessantly against our boat, as we proceeded in the 
 wake of the steamer to the mouth of the Indus. 
 
 The second day of our departure from Kotra, 
 we reached Unnee; a very insignificant place, 
 and the last fuel-station of the steamers ; yet as 
 it is in the main stream, and leads to the present 
 grand mouth of the Indus, two or three boats 
 may generally be met with there, taking in cargo 
 for Bombay. 
 
 On the evening of the 14th, we arrived at 
 the mouth of the river. A country boat with a 
 favorable wind generally arrives there in seven 
 days from Hydrabad. 
 
 At the mouth of the river is one of the most 
 unhealthy swamps in Scinde; and there we re* 
 mained in durance vile for three days, awaiting 
 the arrival of a pattimar from Kurrachee. 
 
 At length that crazy-looking uncivilised vessel 
 appeared. The entrance to and exit from the 
 pattimar requires some steadiness of nerve and 
 agility of movement. The side of the boat has a 
 very forbidding aspect, even for those who are 
 blessed with a natural genius for climbing; and 
 
 G 3 
 
126 CUTCH SAILORS. 
 
 the wretched ladder, arranged for the accommo- 
 dation of passengers, seems adapted to the express 
 purpose of giving them an easy death by drown- 
 ing. The cabin was five feet in height and six 
 in breadth, the front open, pro bono publico; 
 beneath this was a dark hole, dignified with the 
 same name ; the deck, of small dimensions, con- 
 sisted of a few loose broken planks ; beyond this 
 Was the cuisine of our crew (four men and two 
 boys) and servants; in advance of these were 
 goats, kids, sheep, and fowls, emitting odours not 
 "of Araby the blest," Between our cabin and 
 the soi-disant deck was a chasm three feet in 
 depth, in continually crossing which we had many 
 favourable opportunities of breaking our legs. 
 Every plank in the vessel looked time-worn and 
 worm-eaten. The dirt seemed the accumulation 
 of years; and the cleansing properties of water 
 appeared equally Unknown to the Cutch sailors 
 who formed our crew. The eldest of thes'e was 
 a very devout mariner, who seemed to perform 
 his orisons for the general benefit of the party on 
 board, setting a worthy example to the other 
 boatmen, which they were apparently very un- 
 willing to follow. 
 
 The invariable answer of the old sailor, when 
 questioned as to the probable time of reaching 
 Bombay, was always, " It depends upon God." 
 
CAPE JUGGUT; BOMBAY. 127 
 
 We were frequently desired by him to eat a 
 hearty dinner, to induce a favourable gale; a 
 method of securing a propitious wind probably 
 unknown to British sailors, and therefore recorded 
 for their edification. 
 
 The Cutch boatmen navigate principally by 
 guess, having a very indifferent compass and no 
 chart. Though sometimes out of sight of land 
 for two or three days together, it is said that they 
 rarely make an erroneous calculation. 
 
 We reached Cape Juggut, at the entrance of 
 the Gulf of Cutch, the second day after our 
 departure from the mouth of the river. The 
 temple there has an odour of sanctity, which 
 causes a constant influx of pious pilgrims from all 
 parts of India. 
 
 After a prosperous voyage of five days, we 
 reached Bombay with thankful hearts, having 
 encountered many perils by land and water ; and, 
 through God's mercy, reached the desired haven 
 in safety. 
 
 G 4 
 
128 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 PROM BOMBAY TO ALEXANDRIA. MALTA TO 
 SOUTHAMPTON. PARIS. MARSEILLES. 
 NAPLES. 
 
 A FEW days after our arrival at the Victoria a 
 very good hotel at Bombay, we accepted the 
 kind invitation of a friend to pass the remaining 
 interval of our time, previous to the departure of 
 the mail steamer for Suez, at his residence in 
 Byculla a quiet and pretty home, where the 
 injunction of the Apostle, " Use hospitality with- 
 out grudging," was one of the golden rules most 
 faithfully observed by the lord of the mansion, a 
 liberal steward of God's bounty, and a most kind 
 and agreeable host. We quitted his hospitable 
 roof with great regret, for a cabin share in the 
 floating world of a steamer. 
 
 On the first day of a wintry month, we took 
 our departure from the celebrated Presidency, in 
 one of the best vessels in the service, commanded 
 by a skilful and popular captain, containing 
 good accommodation, and not more than thirty 
 
ADEN.- STRAITS OF BABELMANDEL. 129 
 
 passengers. Two very pretty young widows 
 were among the number. Twice two ladies were 
 homeward bound in search of health ; and others, 
 with their husbands, in search of a happiness not 
 to be found in exile. India is a Siberia to those 
 who possess at home the dearest ties of existence. 
 
 We were blessed with fine weather for our 
 voyage, a tranquil sea, a gentle and favourable 
 breeze; and the motion of the steamer was 
 scarcely perceptible. 
 
 The coast of Arabia was the first land visible, 
 about the seventh day. Some of the mountains 
 in sight were said to be five thousand feet above 
 the level of the sea. 
 
 We anchored at Aden on the ninth day a day 
 of coal-dust and discomfort to us, and apparently 
 a jubilee for the Seedees, men from the coast of 
 Zanzibar, engaged to trans-ship the coals. Their 
 shouting, clapping of hands, and savage dancing 
 continued without intermission during the day 
 one of heavy labour, rendered still heavier by 
 their wild movements and vehement vociferation 
 while at work. 
 
 The day after our departure from Aden, we 
 entered the Straits of Babelmandel. 
 
 Few navigators venture to undertake this 
 perilous passage at night, the channel between 
 
 o 5 
 
1 30 SINAI. HOREB. SUEZ. 
 
 Perim Island, off the Peak of Babelmandel, and 
 the cluster of small volcanic rocks called the 
 Brothers, being but a few miles in breadth. 
 
 Some hours' sailing brought us within sight of 
 Mocha, a large neat-looking town, constructed of 
 white stone. Date trees abound to the south- 
 ward ; to the north a fort is visible ; and in the 
 rear are long ranges of hills. 
 
 The next object that diversified the monotony 
 of our voyage, was a volcanic mountain, called 
 Jebbel Teer, visible at sunrise; and of deeper 
 interest than any other was the vision of the 
 sacred mounts, Sinai and Horeb. Beyond these, 
 on the opposite side, was the spot from which the 
 'children of Israel crossed, after their departure 
 from Egypt. At a distance, the rocks in the 
 vicinity have the appearance of tents. 
 
 On the following morning we anchored near 
 Suez ; and reached terra firma in safety, after a 
 perilous passage from the vessel in a crazy boat, 
 with a one-eyed helmsman, and a ragged urchin 
 his assistant. 
 
 After a wretched breakfast at the Suez hotel, 
 the living cargo was deposited in various vans for 
 the transit across the desert. 
 
 Since our previous journey some changes for 
 the worse had occurred, some for the better. 
 
ARAB COACHMEN. ALEXANDRIA. 131 
 
 Among the evils, in addition to those before 
 enumerated, one of the greatest was the dismissal 
 of all the European drivers; thus the luckless 
 passengers were left to the tender mercies of 
 Arabs as wild as the horses they drove. The 
 animals were perfectly uncontrollable, on starting 
 from the station-houses ; the Arab coachmen 
 drove as if pursued by the Furies, and we were 
 in constant peril of life or limb. The vans were 
 in statu quo; but some signs of improvement 
 were visible in the fare at the stations, which was 
 not, as before, restricted to the apparitions of half- 
 starved chickens and omelettes of bad eggs, but as 
 good as any to be met with at the hotel at Cairo. 
 
 We remained a day or two at the last-named 
 place, awaiting the arrival of the Nile steamer 
 from Alexandria. 
 
 At an early hour in the morning, in a dense 
 fog, we embarked from Boulac, and passed a 
 sleepless night on board the steamer. The small 
 cabin was filled to overflowing, though only half 
 the usual number of passengers was present. 
 
 A brief rest was permitted at Alexandria, pre- 
 vious to our departure in the Great Liverpool. 
 Immediately after all the birds of passage had 
 nocked in, the splendid steamer was put under 
 way. Every possible comfort, attainable in a 
 
 G 6 
 
132 THE GREAT LIVERPOOL. 
 
 vessel, is procurable in the Liverpool.* The good 
 order, cleanliness, and regularity prevailing in 
 every department are highly and deservedly 
 praised. Princely fare is provided for the pas- 
 sengers ; and nothing can exceed the liberality of 
 the arrangements on board. All the luxury 
 which prevails, cannot, however, soothe the dis- 
 turbed spirits (and stomachs) of those who suffer 
 from sea-sickness. The pitching and rolling with 
 which the Liverpool amuses its passengers, even 
 in a still calm sea, is inconceivable to all but the 
 practically enlightened. It is a sort of Polka 
 with the waves, very disturbing to the harmony of 
 the inner man. We reached Malta in four days, 
 and remained there some hours in quarantine. 
 
 The first view of any interest after leaving the 
 island was the coast of Grenada; the Sierra 
 Nerada range of mountains forming a fine back- 
 ground, and the towns of Mora and Toros, built 
 on rocky hills, in front. 
 
 A more welcome sight was the next in succes- 
 sion ; the town of Gibraltar, surrounded by a 
 strongly fortified wall. Houses are built almost 
 to the summit of the gigantic rock ; and though 
 from the sea all looks arid and dreary, those who 
 
 * This splendid ship has been lost while these pages were 
 going through the press. 
 
RETURN TO ENGLAND. 133 
 
 were well acquainted with the interior, assured us 
 there was no want of foliage and flowers, in the 
 gardens attached to many of the houses. 
 
 We afterwards passed the celebrated Cape of 
 St. Vincent ; the town bearing this name is situated 
 on a high rock. Twenty-four hours further 
 sailing brought us near Cape Paniche, and the 
 " light-house opposite the Burlings." 
 
 After passing Cape Finisterre, we were kindly 
 treated both by winds and waves in the dreaded 
 Bay of Biscay, and equally fortunate in the 
 English Channel. 
 
 After a very favourable and speedy passage, we 
 reached dear Old England in safety ; and then, 
 as it is la grande mode to keep moving, journeyed 
 without loss of time to Paris, and then made im- 
 mediate arrangements for a continental tour. 
 
 The very words will alarm the " gentle public," 
 become quite nervous under similar inflictions. 
 Grant but a small portion of patience, and still 
 smaller allotment of time, kind public, good public, 
 and the " plain unvarnished tale " will soon be 
 told of " a glance at the continent." 
 
 On the 12th day of January 18 , three merry 
 souls left a sainted avenue, in the pleasant neigh- 
 bourhood of the Elysian Fields ; and undismayed 
 by the sight of snow many inches deep on the 
 
1 34 LYONS. MARSEILLES* 
 
 ground, the bitterest cold we had experienced in 
 la belle France, and the manifold miseries of a 
 narrow coupe 'in La Fitte's diligence, we journeyed 
 to Marseilles with a warmth of sunshine in our 
 hearts which set all physical evils at defiance. 
 
 The snow lay in masses on the hills, and many 
 of the valleys were like a sheet of ice. The 
 spirit of the winds howled dismally, the roads were 
 superlatively heavy, and even our own joyous 
 spirits were soon bereft of their elasticity from the 
 toils of the pilgrimage. About four leagues from 
 Lyons vineyards abound, and the plains are richly 
 cultivated. We had a distant glimpse of the 
 snowy Alps, and the next scene in the day's 
 journey would have formed a noble subject for a 
 painter's skill. A dark pine wood in the foreground, 
 undulating hills, pretty valleys, neat cottages, and 
 a glorious sunlight on the distant mountain range. 
 
 We passed one day at Marseilles, and the fol- 
 lowing morning embarked for Naples in the L 
 
 steamer. 
 
 During the whole voyage we were contending 
 with a rough sea and tempestuous wind. 
 
 A large proportion of the passengers on board 
 were Scotch, English, and French ; and there 
 was one solitary specimen of American solidity, a 
 Jonathan of most ponderous dimensions. 
 
OENOA. 135 
 
 The first night we all sang the miserere in full 
 chorus, with an appropriate accompaniment of 
 groans and sighs. The rolling and pitching of 
 the vessel never ceased till the following morning, 
 when we anchored at Genoa. The approach from 
 the harbour is very picturesque ; numerous villas 
 and palaces are visible, and luxuriant groves of 
 olive trees. 
 
 The landing at the quay is dirty and wretched 
 in the extreme ; it is infested with hordes of idle, 
 noisy, ragged, dirty, Italian boys. On entering 
 the town we were freed from this walking pesti- 
 lence ; and gazed with delight at the handsome 
 faces of the Genoese women, with snow-white 
 muslin veils folded gracefully over their heads. 
 At the hotel named La Croix de Malte, we found 
 an excellent table-<-hote ; but the house was 
 scarcely endurable from the odours vile in all 
 quarters, and men were appointed to do the duties 
 of &femme de chambre. We saw some exquisite 
 specimens of workmanship, in a variety of the 
 silver ornaments for which Genoa is famed, in a 
 room at the hotel, arranged with the utmost taste 
 for the purpose of tempting visiters to become 
 purchasers. 
 
 We glanced rapidly at the most celebrated 
 churches and palaces. The first inspected was the 
 
136 GENOA. 
 
 Chiesa delle Scuole, not remarkable for size, 
 but the repository of some elegantly finished 
 sculptures in marble, on scriptural subjects. 
 
 The cathedral, said to be twelve hundred years 
 old, is a very curious building. A splendid chapel 
 in the interior is dedicated to the remains of St. 
 John the Baptist ; and the mosaics are wonderful ; 
 but the pictures and altars are disfigured by tawdry 
 hearts and flames of tin and brass, the " thanks' 
 offerings " of the sick restored to health. 
 
 The principal streets of Genoa are exceedingly 
 handsome, and their cleanliness remarkable. 
 
 The church of L'Annunziata is a very costly 
 building ; and one dedicated to St. Ambrose 
 superb. 
 
 We visited various magnificent palaces, among 
 them the most worthy of notice are the Palazzo 
 Ducale, and the Palazzo Pallavicini. The former 
 constructed of the purest white marble, with su- 
 perb council and senatorial chambers. The latter 
 a gorgeous edifice, most luxuriously furnished, 
 and possessing a fine collection of paintings. 
 
 After this brief interval of enjoyment on terra- 
 firma, we returned unwillingly to the vessel. The 
 following day was too tempestuous to admit of our 
 landing at Leghorn, and the succeeding one too 
 cold for exploring Civita Vecchia. 
 
NAPLES. 137 
 
 Early on the morning of the Sabbath, we hailed 
 with delight the first view of Ischia, Capri, and 
 Procida, and shortly after anchored in the match- 
 less Bay of Naples. The summit of Vesuvius 
 was gilded with the sunlight of a glorious Italian 
 day. A world of beauty is described in the last 
 three words ; and perfect is the realisation of every 
 early dream connected with this fairy-land, 
 where bright flowers sport in the sunbeam's smile, 
 and the breeze is laden with fragrant balm the 
 heavens are fair as the first dream of love, and 
 care in the sunshine of nature sleeps. We found 
 every hotel brimful ; but at length succeeded in 
 obtaining a superb suite of private apartments 
 commanding a beautiful view of Vesuvius, the 
 bay in its calm beauty, the pretty islands of 
 Ischia and Capri, and Naples looking like a city 
 of marble in the distance. 
 
 Our first excursion was to Castella Mare in a 
 deluge of rain ; the town is beautifully situated 
 with lofty mountains in the rear, and a fine expanse 
 of sea and land view. The drive from Castella 
 Mare to Sorrento is indescribably lovely ; the fine 
 road hollowed out of stupendous rocks winding 
 along the sea-shore ; and a succession of beautiful 
 views, rich orange groves, lofty hills covered with 
 olive trees, deep ravines, and rocky chasms ; in the 
 
138 NAPLES. 
 
 distance snowy peaks and cloud-capped mountains 
 and pretty villas, villages, and vineyards. We 
 visited the villa of Tasso at Sorrento, which has 
 been too frequently described to need any further 
 details. In the town itself there is nothing par- 
 ticularly worthy of notice, save the danger incurred 
 in driving through its marvellously narrow streets. 
 The drive from Castella Mare to Pompeii is full 
 of beauty ; a range of snowy mountains on the 
 right, the distant peaks gilded when we saw them 
 with the bright rays of morning sunshine, and the 
 air sweetly scented by beanfields in full blossom. 
 
 The weeping willows near the gate leading to 
 La Strada dei Sepolcri, at Pompeii, look like 
 drooping mourners over the doomed city. One 
 tomb is peculiarly perfect and beautiful, with an 
 appropriate sculpture, representing a boat just 
 entering its haven of rest. 
 
 One of the most interesting sights in the city of 
 the dead is the villa of Diomede, with its fine 
 frescoes, baths, subterranean vaults for wine, and 
 stone pitchers, in a wonderful state of preserva- 
 tion. We explored the fine ruins of the Temple 
 of Isis, and the house of the Paone with a superb 
 mosaic representing the meeting of Alexander 
 and Darius. Sallust's luxurious villa, the mosaic 
 fountain, the Poet's house, forum, theatre and 
 
HEKCULANEUM. 139 
 
 Temple of Fortune, are in a miraculously perfect 
 condition. 
 
 We visited Herculaneum, and were lighted 
 through the damp, dark, winding passages of the 
 vast theatre by three ragamuffin boys with as many 
 farthing rushlights. Two of these brilliant lumi- 
 naries were rapidly extinguished by a puff of wind, 
 and our enthusiasm in the cause of sight-seeing 
 under ground was quenched at the same moment. 
 "We painfully felt that the one remaining light 
 might soon experience the fate of its predecessors, 
 and leave us surrounded by darkness visible ; ac- 
 cordingly a speedy retreat was effected, and the 
 contrast of our walk in the gardens appropriately 
 named the Delizie del Re, after the deep gloom, 
 the oppressive obscurity of Herculaneum, was ex^ 
 hilarating. Every variety of beautiful tint bright- 
 ened the fresh green foliage of the shady paths, 
 and the smooth grassy slopes were worthy of an 
 English park. 
 
 One delightful drive was frequently repeated on 
 the Strada Nuova; leaving the carriage at the 
 bottom of the hill en face L' Isle de Nisida, we 
 walked through vineyards to the school of Virgil. 
 There was exquisite beauty on the earth and 
 brightness in the heavens. We passed through a 
 newly excavated and fine grotto resembling that 
 
140 NAPLES. 
 
 of Posilipo. The path winds round stupendous 
 rocks on one side, and on the other is a killing 
 precipice with the sea beyond it. 
 
 The drive to Capo di Monte is delightful ; we 
 saw every thing to be seen in the palace which is 
 not worth seeing; walked through pleasant gardens, 
 flne woods, and on soft green sward ; and were 
 duly introduced to a large party of silver phea- 
 sants, peacocks, turkeys, and other live and lively 
 et ceteras. 
 
 Several mornings were dedicated to the inspec- 
 tion of Neapolitan churches. In La Vescoviata 
 we strained our eyes in a vain endeavour to see 
 what is evidently not open to heretic vision, though 
 clearly discerned by the eyes of the faithful ; viz. 
 the holy bones of St. Jannarius. The Jaspar 
 columns near the altar of this church are very fine. 
 
 In Santa Chiara there are beautiful mosaics, 
 a superb Egyptian pillar, and a gorgeously gilded 
 roof with exquisite frescoes. 
 
 The finest sculpture of the Saviour after his 
 crucifixion, by San Martino, is visible in the small 
 church of St. Severe. 
 
 There are beautiful mosaics in San Severino, 
 and some good pictures, One of the subjects 
 chosen is Jesus in a Washing-tub ! 
 
 We paid three visits to the Studio, where the 
 
. 
 
 CAPUA. MOL A. 141 
 
 pictures are not remarkable, and the sculptures are. 
 The variety of pots and pans from Herculaneum 
 form a very interesting and edifying exhibition. 
 
 " See Naples and then die ! " Far from it ; the 
 traveller should live long with the remembrance 
 of all its surpassing loveliness treasured in the 
 inmost depth of his heart and soul 
 
 " 'Tis a vision of deep enchanted bliss, 
 A golden spot in the world's tearful vale. 
 'Twill brighten the light of the beaming eye, 
 And the glow of love in the fervent heart. 
 There the flowers their sweetest essence breathe, 
 Caress' d by the gentle southern gale. 
 And Heaven's bright smile doth in gladness beam 
 Where the spirit of life and love is blest." 
 
 On the last day of March the travellers were 
 again en route, and breakfasted at Capua, a fortified 
 town in a beautiful and richly cultivated country ; 
 the snowy range of Appennine mountains on our 
 right as we pursued our journey, the sea in the 
 distance, wooded hills, lovely valleys, and groves 
 of olive, and exquisite tints, such as only an Italian 
 sun can give, on the whole scene of beauty. 
 
 Mola, where we rested one night, is indescribably 
 lovely, and girded by mountains bordering on the 
 sea with Gaeta at the distance of five leagues. 
 
 We were much amused at the style of attendance 
 and fare reserved for the voyageur en Vetturino. 
 
142 PONTINE MAKSHES. 
 
 A room opening into the kitchen ; one table for 
 ourselves ; another occupied by some half dozen 
 Abigails, apparently of high degree in fashionable 
 "life below stairs;" at the third table were 
 coachmen, postillions and other such noble and 
 distinguished gentleman. 
 
 After crossing the Pontine Marshes in torrents 
 of rain, we reached Cisterno; there dined, and 
 slept, and met with the same flattering attention 
 as at Mola. 
 
 To Rome another chapter must be especially 
 dedicated. 
 
143 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 ROME AND FLORENCE. 
 
 ROME, the unique, the queen of cities, we reached 
 on a beautiful Spring morning. Swarms of our 
 countrymen and women had preceded us, and we 
 had great difficulty in finding a temporary home. 
 At length we were well accomodated in a pension 
 bourgeoise, in the Corso, where we found a large 
 society of English, Irish, Scotch, and Americans. 
 Among the gentlemen, was one eligible bachelor, 
 resembling the caricatures of love among the 
 roses, smiling complacently over a marvellous 
 circumference of flesh, with a pleasing placidity 
 of visage and graceful dignity of demeanour. 
 And many sweet flowers of spinsterhood were 
 there assembled, and interesting specimens of 
 lights from the New World. The Americans 
 finding no spitoons, provided for their especial 
 convenience, converted the carpet into what a 
 witty and popular writer terms an " instrumentoon 
 for the reception of saliva." 
 
144 COLOSSEUM. ST. PETER'S. 
 
 " The earliest sight 
 We saw with delight, 
 In the sunshine bright," 
 
 was the Colosseum, where our weak minds were 
 astounded at the grandeur of the gigantic ruin, 
 worthy to be the scene of a higher order of 
 amusement than any ever witnessed there. "Wild 
 flowers and ivy twine gracefully round the arched 
 ruins. In the centre of the amphitheatre is a 
 wooden cross, on which was inscribed, " Plenary 
 indulgence for one hundred days," to any of the 
 privileged faithful who kissed it. We ascended 
 to the highest circle of the Colosseum to see 
 what our optical organs were not keen enough to 
 discover the seven hills of Rome. 
 
 Our next visit was to St. Peter's. No painting, 
 no model, can give a just idea of its stupendous 
 grandeur. You may exhaust every superlative 
 and expletive in the English or any other Ian* 
 guage, in vain; the reality must exceed all. 
 Nothing can surpass the beauty of the mosaics ; 
 copies of Raphael's splendid pictures ; the finest 
 are the Transfiguration, and the Baptism of the 
 Saviour. The bronze altar is richly gilded, and 
 the Egyptian columns have a fine effect. Canova's 
 statues of popes "lang syne "defunct, are admirable, 
 and the lions, executed by the same master-hand, 
 
EOME. ST. PETER'S. 145 
 
 wonderful. We ascended the cupola, and mounted 
 the perpendicular iron ladder leading into the 
 bail, accompanied by an active sexagenarian ; and 
 on descending, rang the great bell of St. Peter's, 
 with striking effect. 
 
 Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the most 
 magnificent churches in the world, richly deco~ 
 rated with marble, jasper, alabaster, mosaic, lapis 
 lazuli, and granite, fine sculpture, and gorgeous 
 gilding surpassing St. Peter's in splendour. The 
 frescoes are very beautiful; indeed, the whole 
 building surpasses description. 
 
 We inspected the Columbarium, a repository 
 for the ashes of the ancients, valuable relics of 
 past times, and doubtless of deep interest to the 
 antiquary. 
 
 The Protestant cemetery is a quiet home for 
 the dead, tastefully arranged and adorned with 
 roses and evergreens in rich abundance. 
 
 At the church of St. John Lateran, heretics 
 are permitted to see a large piece of the table 
 where the Saviour ate the last supper, and are 
 confidently assured that the genuine head of 
 St. Paul is preserved in a fine cenotaph there. 
 Constantino's baptistry, adjoining St. John's, con- 
 tains nothing worthy of notice. Jews, Turks, 
 H 
 
146 ROME. TIVOLI. 
 
 Infidels, and heretics, are alike permitted toper- 
 form the baptismal ceremony here. 
 
 Santa Maria degli Angeli is a magnificent 
 church, profusely decorated, yet with exquisite 
 taste, in the same style as Santa Maria Maggiore, 
 and adorned with every precious gem procurable 
 in Christendom. Beautiful pietra dura altars, 
 superb alto and basso rilievos, fine frescoes, a 
 richly gilded roof, and one of the most splendid 
 chapels in Home the chapel Borghese. 
 
 A few miles from the town, on the spot where 
 St. Paul was executed, are three small ancient 
 chapels. The head of the great Apostle is re- 
 ported to have taken three bounds ; and, at the 
 same moment, the same number of miraculous 
 fountains issued from the ground. 
 
 The Tempio Berenini is a small temple, erected 
 over the spot where St. Peter was executed, 
 about three miles beyond the gates of Rome ; and 
 the very stone on which the saint was beheaded 
 is here exhibited. 
 
 The drive from Rome to Tivoli is delightful, 
 "and the ruins of Adrian's villa are peculiarly 
 beautiful. The pen of Eustace only could 
 do justice to the view of the Vale, of Tempe. 
 "Jhe surrounding hills are covered with olive 
 and cypress trees, the contrast between the dark 
 
CIVITA CASTELLANA. 147 
 
 green of the latter, and the silvery-looking foliage 
 of the former, is very fine. With the far-famed 
 falls of Tivoli we were greatly disappointed. 
 
 In mercy to the public the journalist refrains 
 from detailing the wonders of art and science, 
 exhibited in the studios, palaces, galleries, &c. 
 at Rome, all having before been so fully and 
 minutely described by tourists innumerable, in 
 letters, sketches, guide-books, hand-books, &c. 
 
 We quitted the Queen of cities with great 
 regret, and in five hours reached Baccano, having 
 passed over a hilly and cultivated country. Rich 
 golden broom and abundance of wild flowers de- 
 corated the road. The grand range of the snowy 
 Apennines was visible on our right. On the 
 left, rocky glens, fresh green meadows, wild 
 untrimmed hedges, gaily decked with thyme, 
 woodbine, and a lovely deep blue flower, called 
 non so chef We passed through Neppi, a pic- 
 turesque fortified town ; and in the evening 
 arrived at Civita Castellana, which is beautifully 
 situated ; the bridge crosses a superb rocky ravine, 
 covered with shrubs and flowers ; miniature 
 cascades, and murmuring rivulets, are visible and 
 audible, aufond. 
 
 The grass was glittering with diamond dew- 
 drops when we commenced our early journey, on 
 
 H 2 
 
148 TERNI. THE FALLS. 
 
 the following morning. After five hours' travelling, 
 we reached Narni to breakfast at L 'hotel de la 
 Cloche, having passed through splendid mountain 
 scenery, sunny riant valleys, lofty hills richly 
 wooded to the very summit, picturesque ravines, 
 rocks decorated with luxuriant wild flowers, and 
 fine gorges in the hills ; these were the scenes on 
 which our eyes feasted. 
 
 Towards the middle of the day, we arrived at 
 Terni, and immediately started for the falls. "We 
 drove over a noble road, cut in a stupendous 
 rock, with a tremendous precipice 011 the left. 
 The succession of views during the drive was 
 beautiful, and there were wild flowers enough for 
 a floricultural exhibition. 
 
 The falls are superlatively fine, and the vivid 
 rainbow colours, formed by the rays of the sun 
 reflected on the spray, were very lovely. The 
 distant line of blue hills was tinged with gold 
 by the setting sun. In the vicinity of Terni roses 
 are cultivated in the hedges, and they imparted a 
 delicious fragrance to the evening air on our 
 return. The quietude and beauty of the scene, 
 after the imposing splendour of the falls, was 
 delightful. 
 
 Nota bene. We slept this night in a flealess 
 bed (a rare thing in Italy), inhaling odours vile, 
 
SPOLETO. HANNIBAL'S GATE. 14& 
 
 from the stables adjoining our room in the Hotel 
 de la Poste. 
 
 Early the following day we were en route 
 for Foligno. We crossed a branch of the Apen- 
 nines, and again feasted on the contemplation of 
 magnificent scenery, fine gorges and mountain 
 ravines, &c. 
 
 We breakfasted at Spoleto, remarkable for 
 bugs. There we beheld Hannibal's Gate, which 
 is very curious and very ancient. We saw the 
 Temple of Clitumnus en route, the fa$ade is 
 extremely pretty, with columns of ancient marble, 
 fluted Corinthian pillars, and others composite 
 and Egyptian. 
 
 We arrived at Foligno in the evening, which 
 is charmingly situated' in a riant paysage. After 
 resting one night at La Poste, we started the 
 following morning, and travelled through a richly 
 cultivated country; fields of trefoil, fine grain, 
 and the bright poppy glowing in the sunshine. 
 Woodbine and wild roses abounding in the 
 hedges bordering on the road, and vineyards on 
 both sides. We breakfasted at Perugia, a fine 
 ancient town, situated on a high hill, and strongly 
 fortified by nature and bricks. It is surrounded 
 by mountains, a snowy range forming the most 
 distant boundary. We visited the old cathedral 
 
150 PERUGIA. FLORENCE. 
 
 of Perugia, which has no beauty, external or 
 internal. Perched on a red stand in the centre 
 of the building, is a large representation in wax 
 of the Virgin, with a tin crown on her head, and a 
 smart blue train studded with radiant stars of the 
 same costly metal. Several bad pictures, and 
 one good one, form the principal decoration of 
 the cathedral. The House of Delegates is of 
 great antiquity, but of no beauty. 
 
 Through a varied and beautiful country we 
 travelled to Basignano on the borders of the lake 
 Thrasymene ; where, at a small dirty inn front'ng 
 the lake, we had the most miserable dinner ,hat 
 ever fell to the lot of the hungry ; abominable 
 uneatable soup, fish and flesh superlatively bad, 
 and water of the same quality. Early the follow- 
 ing morning we were again en route ; and break- 
 fasted at Castiglione Fiorentina. We passed the 
 night at a very pretty place named Monte Yarchi ; 
 but all the beauties of the scene were lost on the 
 journalist, who was then too ill to know, as Miss 
 Martineau says, " how to observe." 
 
 After journeying through a smiling country we 
 reached the far-famed land of Florence, passed one 
 night at Schneider's hotel, and " located " in very 
 pleasant apartments the next morning, opposite to 
 the church of San Gaetano ; where we heard a 
 
FLORENCE. BOBOLI PALACE. 151 
 
 fine mass for the benefit of the collected dead, of 
 ages past and modern days. 
 
 In the evening we drove to the Boboli Palace 
 and gardens. The palace is a handsome solid 
 building, and the gardens are delightful ; charming 
 walks, gay flowers, and good sculptures abounding 
 in every direction. 
 
 The Galleria was next visited ; and there 
 we were enchanted, spell-bound, wonder-struck, 
 with the exquisite works of art collected. The 
 Venus de Medicis is perfect, save the hands. 
 " The dimples in her back," are pronounced "ex- 
 quisite" by Mrs. Trollope. Coreggio's lovely 
 Madonna, kneeling in worshipful contemplation of 
 the infant Jesus, is one of the finest pictures in 
 the Tribune. Guercino's Samian Sybil is beau- 
 tiful; and Titian's pictures of the recumbent 
 Venus are superbly painted* 
 
 Benvenuto Cellini's vase of lapis lazuli with 
 diamond handles, is one of the most beautiful 
 things in the collection of gems. 
 
 In The Hall of the Niobes the statue of the 
 mother, with a kneeling child at her feet, is very 
 finely executed. Notti's Nativities are noble 
 pictures : an effulgence of divine light is reflected 
 from the infant Saviour on all around him ; the 
 e 4 
 
152 FLORENCE. BELLO SGUARDO. 
 
 group is admirable ; and Carlo Dolci's Magdalen 
 perfection. 
 
 The pietra dura tables are marvellous works 
 of art ; and among the bronzes John of Bologna's 
 Mercury seems a miraculous evidence of talent. 
 
 Our next visit was to Bello Sguardo, at 
 present the property of an Italian nobleman, and 
 formerly the residence of Galileo. It commands 
 a beautiful view ; the valley of the Arno, Firenze 
 la Bella, encircled by a noble range of the Apen- 
 nines, and the hills studded with innumerable 
 villas. The distant mountains were gilded with 
 the heavenly light of an Italian sunset. We sat 
 some time on the terrace where Galileo bad gazed 
 90 often on the starry wonders of the heavens, and 
 penetrated some of the deep mysteries of the solar 
 system. We walked in the tastefully arranged 
 garden he had carefully cultivated himself; and 
 saw, at the entrance, a fine bust of the great 
 astronomer. 
 
 The churches at Florence are scarcely worthy 
 of a visit after having seen all the gorgeous splen- 
 dour of those at Rome. The Duomo of black 
 and white marble, is externally a handsome build- 
 ing ; but the interior, dark, gloomy, and with no 
 other embellishment than painted glass windows. 
 
 St. Giovanni has a fine dome, but is destitute of 
 
FLORENCE. PALAZZO PITTI. 153 
 
 any other claim to admiration. The exterior of 
 Santa Croce is very rude ; the interior interesting, 
 the tombs of Dante, Michael Angelo, Galileo, 
 and Machiavelli being there. 
 
 In the Palazzo Pitti we spent many delightful 
 hours; the suite of apartments is superb, the 
 frescoes beautiful, and the paintings surpass all 
 description. In Marie's room the Madonna 
 della Seggiola and Raphael's Holy Family, are 
 the most glorious of that great master's works. 
 In Jupiter's room Salvator Rosa's Cataline, 
 and Michael Angelo's wonderful picture of the 
 Fates, are the finest. 
 
 Guido's magnificent Cleopatra is in Saturn's 
 room; and a touching picture of San Rosa by 
 Carlo Dolci, exemplifying the meekest resigna- 
 tion. In the same apartment is a curious Mag- 
 dalen by Domenichino, with a jolly red nose. 
 
 In Ulysses' room are some beautiful minia- 
 tures, and an exquisite painting by Salvator Rosa, 
 Paese con Ponte. 
 
 There are magnificent tables of pietra dura 
 in the Iliad room ; and Perugino's picture of the 
 Infant Jesus, adored by the Virgin and St. John, 
 is very beautiful. 
 
 We paid more than one visit to the Loggia 
 H 5 
 
154 FL'ORENCE. 1>EMIDQFF S VILLA. 
 
 del Lanzi. John of Bologna's Rape of the 
 Sabines is very finely executed. Benvenuto 
 Cellini's Perseus with Medusa's Head is hideous. 
 The blood streaming from the head looks more 
 like the coarse hair of a horse's tail, and the position 
 of the figure is wretched. 
 
 We greatly enjoyed a morning drive to Careggi, 
 passing through a delightful country abounding in 
 rich corn fields, vines, olive groves, and pretty 
 villas, built almost to the summit of the mountains. 
 On the evening of the same day we walked through 
 a large garden near Florence, swarming with 
 countless myriads of fire-flies, sparkling as dia- 
 monds, and looking like a constellation of stars 
 fallen from heaven. 
 
 One of the many pleasant drives in the vicinity 
 of Florence is to Demidoff's villa ; an extensive 
 silk manufactory is there established, where women 
 work from five in the morning till seven in the 
 evening. The gardens are pretty though neglected. 
 
 The drive to Fiesole is through a lovely country, 
 pretty villas far and near ; the pink cluster-rose 
 in rich luxuriant garlands drooping over the walls 
 and hedges, the classic waters of the Arno flowing 
 on our right, and the distant hills covered with 
 cottages and villas. The church at Fiesole is 
 curious and ancient, but not handsome. 
 
FLORENCE. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 155 
 
 We paid a brief visit to the Belli Arti, and 
 saw very few good, many indifferent, and some 
 bad, modern paintings. 
 
 The pictra dura manufactory is well worth a 
 morning's visit. We afterwards drove to Ponte 
 Allabadia. The hills were covered with olives, 
 and the succession of views was very interesting. 
 Here we met a literary lady of some celebrity fast 
 asleep in her carriage, having come, doubtless, for 
 the express purpose of enjoying the beautiful 
 repose of nature on a lovely evening in May, and 
 admiring the scenery in the vicinity of Ponte 
 Allabadia. 
 
 San Lorenzo is one of the gloomiest churches 
 in Florence, and the fine sepulchral chapel of the 
 Medicis still more so. The highly polished marble 
 at the base is splendid, but the upper part grey, 
 dismal, and looking little better than slate. We 
 were presumptuous enough to be much dissatisfied 
 with the statues of Michael Angelo. 
 
 The senate room of the Medicis at the Gal- 
 leria is a magnificent apartment, with fine 
 frescoes and gilded roof, and admirable specimens 
 of sculpture. We walked through the secret 
 passage, from the Pitti to the Palazzo Yecchio. 
 
 The Campo Santo of the Protestants is very 
 pretty and tasteful in its arrangements. Fleurs de 
 
 H 6 
 
156 FLORENCE. CARCINE GARDENS. 
 
 lis, roses, geranium, cypress, and weeping willow, 
 adorn the graves ; and the view from the cemetery 
 is very fine. 
 
 The Carcine gardens are a delightful resort, and 
 the evening drive most a la mode in Florence. 
 The Grand Duke has a dairy there, and the 
 fattest and finest cows in the Tuscan states. 
 
 No external signs of poverty are visible in 
 Tuscany ; there is an air of general prosperity and 
 happiness not to be met with in the papal do- 
 minions. 
 
 Florence in the language of Laman Blanchard 
 has : 
 
 A charm no lip or lyre can tell, 
 
 No colour can reveal; 
 A mystic sound that rises round, 
 Till the echoing earth seems hallow'd ground. 
 
 the painter's skill 
 
 Hath rarely feign'd a scene more fair. 
 
157 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 FLORENCE. VENICE. THE TYROL. BAVARIA. 
 
 ON quitting Florence, we passed through a very 
 beautiful country ; fine ranges of the Apennine 
 mountains, richly cultivated valleys and hedge- 
 rows gay with pomegranate, and clematis 'yclept 
 " the traveller's joy," the white convolvolus, and 
 a most luxurious display of golden broom. A 
 good breakfast after the morning drive was 
 very acceptable at the Albergo delle Maschere, 
 situated in a peaceful valley girded by mountains. 
 After resting a few hours, we pursued our journey 
 through splendid mountain passes, lovely glens a 
 rugged rocks, and smiling vales; wild roses, 
 woodbine, and broom flowering by the road-side, 
 One mile from Pietra Male is the Fattoria, 
 a very clean new inn, from which we started at an 
 early hour the following morning. The country 
 we travelled through was unfruitful, wild, and 
 mountainous. Our first glimpse of the Adriatic was 
 at the entrance of the papal states ; at the douane t 
 
158 BOLOGNA. THE GALLEKIA. 
 
 where we were treated with great courtesy, owing 
 to the judicious application of a silvery argument, 
 which rarely fails to move the tender sensibilities 
 of a douanier. After passing through the custom- 
 house triumphantly, we pursued our way, reached 
 Pianora to breakfast, and arrived in due time at 
 Bologna; our quarters at the Aigle Noir were 
 clean and the fare tolerably good. 
 
 The appearance of Bologna is handsome, and 
 every street improved by colonnades. As in duty 
 bound, we visited the Galleria, feasted our eyes 
 Guide's superb Andrea di Corsini, Doge of Ve- 
 nice, and were greatly disappointed with his far- 
 famed picture of the Crucifixion ; the two figures 
 of the mourning Marys are beautiful, but that of 
 the Saviour is wretched ; the word is written and 
 cannot be recalled, even if the ghost of the departed 
 genius should rise and condemn the daring and 
 ignorance of the presumptuous critic. We were 
 spell bound by Raphael's group with Saint Cecilia, 
 though her saintship is rather too fat to be alto- 
 gether graceful. Guide's Massacre of the Inno-* 
 cents is magnificent ; and the Martyrdom of 
 St* Agnes by Domenichino, a very fine but ter? 
 rible representation of the reality. There was one 
 most curious and irreverent picture of the Virgin 
 standing on a half moon, and the Almighty 
 
BOLOGNA. FERRARA. 159 
 
 applying both hands to the Madonna's shoulders, 
 to lift her up into heaven. 
 
 At the Galleria Sampieri is a second Cleopatra 
 by Guido, not quite so finished as that in the 
 Pitti Palace, and with the same defect in the 
 hand, but still very beautiful. There is a 
 curious picture also of Gesu Bambino sulla 
 Croce, swaddled after the Italian fashion, and 
 looking very like an Egyptian mummy. Titian's 
 Doge is superb, and the frescoes by Guercino 
 very fine. 
 
 The churches of St. Jacques and Petronio 
 are handsome, but the interior is not decorated 
 with sculpture or painting in either building. In 
 the latter the coronation of Charles VI. took place, 
 and it contains Cassini's celebrated meridian* 
 The cathedral is a very fine and ancient structure. 
 
 Nota Bene, for travellers to Bologna. Stay as 
 short a time as you possibly can, or run the risk 
 of being devoured alive by fleas. 
 
 We left the Aigle Noir most joyfully, the 
 morning after our arrival at Bologna, and reached 
 II The, to breakfast badly, before noon. The rest 
 of the day's journey was very uninteresting. In 
 the evening we arrived at the inn of the Three 
 redoubtable Maures, at Ferrara. 
 
 Our first visit was to the tomb of Ariosto ; the 
 
160 HOSPITAL, OF ST. ANNA, 
 
 second to his house, where all is said to be 
 arranged as the great poet left it. We gazed 
 reverently at the time-worn, hard, and comfortless 
 arm chair, once his favourite seat ; and saw an 
 inkstand made for him by the Grand Duke's 
 own hands. The account-book of the poet, 
 and letters to a friend in a most illegible hand, 
 are among the treasured remembrances of the 
 dead, carefully preserved in the public library 
 of Ferrara. There we also saw the original 
 MSS. of Tasso's Gerusalemme, in most bar- 
 barous characters. Guarini's Pastor Fido is one 
 of the sacred relics, and the first copy of Or- 
 lando Furioso. Also richly illuminated books 
 of the Psalms, and an Old Testament found in 
 one of the ancient monasteries at Ferrara; in 
 the latter was a most singular picture Eve's 
 head, shoulders, and waist, emerging from Adam's 
 rib, and the Almighty pulling out the other 
 members of her body. 
 
 In the Hospital of St. Anna we saw Tasso's 
 miserable cell, with two grated windows, one 
 looking on the Ducal Palace where the proud 
 Eleanor lived ; the other, on the garden attached 
 to the hospital ; the pavement was quite worn 
 away. 
 
 Guido's last fresco is suspended above the altar 
 
FERRARA. ROVIGO. 161 
 
 in the very handsome church of the Dominicans ; 
 and every little chapel in the building has altars 
 of fine marble 
 
 The Chiesa della Rosa contains a most 
 curious sculpture ; a group surrounding the 
 Saviour, consisting of the centurion, the three 
 Marys, and one other figure, in various attitudes 
 of grief; in coarse plaster, coloured, and the po- 
 sition of every figure admirable. 
 
 We were thankful to leave Ferrara, its dismal 
 streets, horrid smells, swarming fleas, dirty inn, 
 &c. It looks like a city of the dead ; a fitting 
 haunt for suicide, murder, and every imaginable 
 diabolical deed. And yet there is a lively gon- 
 dola song, which describes most melodiously the 
 " Sponde ridenti di Ferrara." Either this is a 
 poetical licence, or the author was blind. 
 
 After leaving this most melancholy town, we 
 crossed the Po, a very fine river, on a pont volant; 
 passed through a flat uninteresting but cultivated 
 country, and breakfasted at Rovigo, a small but 
 cheerful-looking town. We had very indifferent 
 fare at Les Trois Couronnes. 
 
 On leaving Rovigo we passed through a long 
 avenue of trees, poplars, elms, and ash, with vines 
 twined in graceful festoons from tree to tree. 
 
 At Monselice our quarters for the night were 
 
162 PETRARCH'S VILLA. 
 
 engaged at La Posta ; and again very indifferent 
 fare provided. On calling for a lain de pied, we 
 were furnished with saucepans ! the former useful 
 and ornamental article not being procurable at the 
 hotel. 
 
 Seven miles from Monselice are the house and 
 tomb of Petrarch. The first portion of our drive 
 along the banks of the canal, with a range of hills 
 in the distance, was very pretty, and, after diverg- 
 ing from the high road, beautiful ; vines on each 
 side hanging in graceful garlands between ash and 
 poplar trees, and bearing promise of a rich vintage. 
 The first view of Arqua on the slope of a hill, with 
 its snow -white church tower, is exceedingly 
 picturesque; the bright rich blossom of pome- 
 granates forming a bank on one side of the ascent 
 to the village, and flowering among the rocks on 
 the other. 
 
 Petrarch's villa is very humble within and 
 without. We saw the chair in which he died, 
 placed in the same room in which he expired. The 
 remains of his favourite cat are enshrined in a glass 
 case. There were coarse rude frescoes of him- 
 self and Laura in one of the rooms. We wrote 
 from the inkstand he had used ; drank water from 
 the fountain he had built ; and visited the rough 
 stone mpnument over his remains in the " auld 
 
PADUA. VENICE. 163 
 
 kirkyard ; " from the top of the tomb emerges a 
 bronze head of the great poet, with one eye in and 
 the other out. 
 
 The womankind of the peasantry at Arqua, like 
 those at Ferrara, had their heads decorated with 
 artificial flowers, even the old, ugly, and grey- 
 haired ; some wearing greasy horn-combs, others 
 with sore and dirty pates all appeared in the 
 same ornament. 
 
 Dolo was our first resting place after Monselice, 
 where we were treated with a bad breakfast at a 
 dirty inn. From thence we passed through a 
 pretty country by the banks of the canal to Padua; a 
 clean cheerful town with a handsome square, filled 
 with statues of the learned men sent forth into the 
 World from its far-famed university. The road on 
 quitting the town continues to wind along the 
 banks of the canal, adorned with villas, some of 
 Palladian architecture ; towards the evening we 
 arrived at Mestre and there embarked in a gondola 
 for Venice, the rain and wind greeting us very 
 rudely on our passage. The approach to the 
 Queen of the Adriatic is by no means imposing ; 
 but once on the grand canal, nothing can exceed 
 the singular interest of the scene. The floating 
 city of palaces is quite unique in its beauty. 
 The Piazza di San Marco a grand unrivalled 
 
164 VENICE. PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO. 
 
 square, and the church containing the saint's re- 
 mains, a matchless specimen of ancient architec- 
 ture. The interior has a very Oriental look ; 
 and the treasury contains one of the richest 
 altar-pieces in the world, superbly gilt and de- 
 corated with gems of immense value; splendid 
 candelabras of Venetian gold ; and valuable vessels 
 for the altar service. A rude stone chair is shown, 
 as one used by St. Mark when preaching at 
 Alexandria. The mosaic roof of the church is 
 coarse, and the bright polish of the marble columns 
 has yielded to the despoiling touch of time. The 
 mosaic pavement has sunk, and the building it- 
 self seems unfit to contend with many further 
 years. 
 
 The church of San Giovanni e Paolo is a very 
 handsome building, with superb monuments of 
 sculptured marble, in honour of the defunct Doges. 
 The Madonna with a gold turban on her head, is 
 placed at the entrance of the chapel dedicated to 
 her, which contains the most exquisite alto rilievos 
 in marble, illustrative of Scripture subjects; some 
 fine pictures by Tintoretto ; and a superb ceiling 
 with frescoes and rich gilding. 
 
 The church of the unshod Carmelites, alias 
 Scalzi, is magnificent in its decorations, which 
 are of rare beauty. 
 
VENICE. THE ADRIATIC. 165 
 
 We visited the arsenal, the entrance gate t(x 
 which is very handsome, and the guardian lions 
 from Mount Hymettus, transported in 1687, are 
 superb. We saw the huge naval, and smaller 
 military standards taken from the Turks at the 
 battle of Lepanto ; some Bashaw tails of honour, 
 and various warlike weapons ; the armour of 
 Henry IV., presented by himself, on being en- 
 rolled among the patricians of Venice ; and 
 horrible instruments of torture, such as were 
 used by the barbarous inquisitors in days of old. 
 There was also a mannikin suit of armour, in 
 which a poor boy, eight or nine years of age, was 
 found dead on the battle-field of Pavia. 
 
 Among the models, the most worthy of ad- 
 miration is the Bucentaur, gorgeously gilded 
 and decorated with crimson velvet. Also, an 
 ingenious model of Venetian houses built on 
 piles, filled up with earth afterwards, the foun- 
 dation being of stone arches, on which the rest of 
 the building is constructed. 
 
 We spent a few hours on the Lido, the island 
 to which Lord Byron daily resorted, where we 
 inhaled the cool evening breeze of the Adriatic. 
 In the distant horizon appeared two snow-white 
 sails, and all was peace upon the great deep. The 
 tombs of Jews are scattered carelessly about the 
 
166 GALLERIA CORNER. 
 
 island, which is all uncultivated and neglected 
 ground. The Lagunes, on our return, were like a 
 sheet of silver, and the gondola glided swiftly- 
 over the still waters. 
 
 The public gardens formed at Napoleon's word 
 of command, are a very pleasant, green, and 
 popular retreat, thronged at the evening hour by 
 much of the beau monde of Venice. 
 
 We visited the Galleria Correr; a municipal 
 collection of curious odds and ends, ingenuities 
 and whimsicalities from every quarter of the 
 globe, a fine Magdalen by Guido, some ancient 
 Flemish pictures, and a few old Italian ones, 
 either very indifferent, or very bad. In the 
 Palazzo Manfrini are some beautiful pictures. 
 Among them a master-piece of Sassoferrato's, the 
 Madonna with the infant Jesus in her arms, 
 whose sleep is perfectly represented; the deep 
 repose of the Holy Innocent is quite heavenly. 
 
 There is a curious portrait of Titian's mother ; 
 an old dame with a weather-beaten aspect, and a 
 skin like dried parchment. Guido's Lucretia is a 
 chef-d'oeuvre ; Titian's Head of Ariosto, a noble 
 painting; and a group of gamesters by Caravaggio, 
 masterly. 
 
 The Armenian college on the island of St.. 
 Lazaro, is well worth a visit. The church is 
 
VENICE. MUNICH. 1 67 
 
 very neat, and the whole establishment handsome. 
 A good education is given gratis to the Armenian 
 boys. From the College printing-press works 
 are sent to all parts of the world, chiefly on 
 religious subjects. A great linguist was there, 
 formerly Lord Byron's master, while at Venice ; a 
 fine intelligent old Armenian, acquainted with 
 twenty-two languages. 
 
 After spending ten days very agreeably at 
 Venice, we prepared for our journey to Munich, 
 and left the Queen of the Adriatic on a glorious 
 day in June. We breakfasted at Castel Franco, 
 a pretty town situated in a smiling valley. Late 
 in the evening we reached Bassano, and there 
 remained two days ; and again the journalist was 
 too ill to use her powers of observation for the 
 enlightenment of the public. 
 
 On the morning of the third day, we continued 
 our interesting journey, and reached Borgo di 
 Sugano, the first town in the Tyrol, in the 
 evening. It is prettily situated in a valley, 
 surrounded by richly wooded hills. After a day's 
 rest, we started for Trent, and travelled through 
 a beautifully varied country, with a succession 
 of lofty hills, sunny valleys, rocky glens, and 
 pretty villages. The houses are constructed a la 
 Suisse, with wooden balconies and staircases out- 
 
168 TYROLESE INNS. THE ADIGE. 
 
 side ; and the rising generation swarmed like bees 
 in every direction. The women encountered 
 en route, appeared dark, ugly, and sun-burnt; 
 the men, a hardy-looking race, but equally 
 devoid of beauty. We arrived at Trent in the 
 evening, it is situated on the Adige, in a deep 
 valley, surrounded by rugged rocky hills. The 
 town is very clean and handsome, and our ac- 
 commodation at the Europa hotel good, the fare 
 ditto. 
 
 At the Tyrolese inns before-mentioned, we 
 enjoyed the luxury of boarded floors, and the 
 same abundance of fleas as in Italy. 
 
 After remaining a night at Trent, we left early 
 the next day for Egna. The road winding 
 through a valley with ranges of Alpine mountains 
 on each side, ripe corn fields bearing a rich crop, 
 and vines prettily trained over trellis-work. On 
 approaching Egna, the road becomes still more 
 picturesque, weeping willows bordering it on 
 both sides. At the Grande Albergo all' Angeli, 
 we were treated with a breakfast of stale fish, in 
 a room containing bottomless sofas and chairs, 
 and various unfinished novelties, and a surly 
 landlord. 
 
 Our next stage was Botzen ; the road for some 
 time winding along the banks of the Adige, 
 
BOTZEN TO COLMEX. 169 
 
 which is here a broad, handsome stream. The 
 route continued very picturesque between rocky 
 mountains, with vineyards in the valley. In the 
 evening we arrived at Botzen, where the Empe- 
 ror's brother had just preceded us. A multitude 
 of the peasantry had assembled in the square in 
 front of the Hotel Corona Imperiale, and a 
 military band was playing the national anthem. 
 
 The situation of Botzen is beautiful : the river 
 Gisach in the valley, and the town surrounded by 
 lofty and verdant mountains. The Corona is an 
 excellent Inn, where the inner man will fare well. 
 
 We quitted Botzen early on the festival of 
 St. Anthony: in honour of the saint, groups of 
 peasantry were flocking to church. The men in 
 their Tyrolese jackets, and short continuations of 
 dark green. The women with a variety of head- 
 gear : some wearing heavy seal-skin caps like 
 Laplanders, some in large emerald green fly -caps, 
 and bright red stockings, others with long hair, 
 neatly braided, forming a graceful crown, and all 
 carrying umbrellas of the gayest hue. 
 
 Our drive to Colmen, where we breakfasted, 
 was exquisitely beautiful. Nothing can be mqre 
 romantic than the scenery. The river Gisach, of 
 whose interesting sinuosities Mrs. Starke has 
 written, is here a fine, foaming, rapid torrent, 
 I 
 
170 THE BRENNER PASS. 
 
 passing between high mountains, wooded to the 
 very summit, and grand rocks covered with fresh 
 green foliage. The prettiest little churches with 
 bright red spires, rustic cottages, and villages 
 are visible on the green hills, and in the verdant 
 valleys. 
 
 Rude representations of the crucifixion, with 
 dreadful figures of the bleeding Saviour, abound 
 by the road side. As far as Britzen, the cha- 
 racter of the scenery remains the same. 
 
 The rain swept in torrents over the hills, as we 
 journeyed to Unteraugh. Our resting-place for 
 the night was at a decent inn, in the vicinity of a 
 new fortress. We left it the following day, and 
 passed through a beautiful country, a snowy 
 range visible in the distance, and the Gisach 
 rushing over its rocky bed, mit macht, mit macht, 
 on our left. We arrived early at Stirzingen, an 
 old, clean-looking town, full of small inns, and 
 fared well in a dejeuner a la fourchette at the 
 Goldenen Krone. 
 
 Steinach was the next stage, and our drive 
 through the Brenner Pass exquisitely beautiful : 
 the bright clear waters of the Gisach sparkling 
 and dashing over masses of rock in the valley. 
 .On each side of the winding road, are mountains 
 covered with fine green larches, fine grassy 
 
INSPRUCK. 171 
 
 slopes, smooth as an English lawn, and cultivation 
 carried to the summit of the highest hills. Pretty 
 rural villages and churches are visible in every 
 direction. 
 
 We passed one night at Steinach, a quaint- 
 looking old town, with the most grotesque figures 
 painted on the ancient houses. Early the follow- 
 ing morning, we were en route for Innspriick, and 
 again passed through a fine, mountainous country, 
 varied by deep and beautifully wooded dells, and 
 fir-crowned hills, the silvery river flowing on our 
 right. 
 
 After five hours' travelling, we arrived at the 
 Golden Eagle, Inspriick : the town is situated in a 
 cultivated valley, surrounded by mountains, and 
 is spacious and handsome. Illness prevented the 
 journalist from seeing the lions of Inspriick, and 
 great is the Reader's loss in consequence. 
 
 We crossed the Zirl to Seefeld. The scenery 
 is wild and mountainous, but without any of the 
 rich, verdant beauty of the Brenner Pass. 
 
 We breakfasted well at the Aigle Noir, situated 
 in a dreary plain, and in the vicinity of a snowy 
 range. 
 
 Mittenwald, the first town in Bavaria, is a quiet- 
 looking old place, with curiously-painted houses. 
 The road, for many miles after quitting it, is 
 
 I 2 
 
172 BAVARIAN WOMEN. MUNICH. 
 
 most uninteresting, passing through a marshy 
 valley, with high hills on both sides. As we 
 approached Miidenaugh, the country is more 
 cultivated. We passed one night at Weilheim, 
 a neat town, and started for Munich the fol- 
 lowing morning, passing through an interesting 
 country, with a chain of distant hills, and park- 
 like scenery, with green slopes and wooded knolls 
 on either side of the road. The Bavarian 
 men, women, and children we met with en route 
 seemed all equally ugly. The heavy fur cap 
 of the females, their short petticoats, thick legs, 
 and fat figures, form a most unprepossessing 
 tout ensemble. The latter part of our journey 
 through a beautiful wood reminded us of the 
 New Forest. We approached Munich through 
 an avenue of delicious lime trees. The peasant 
 women had donned their Sunday's best, and 
 wore a most curious head-dress, made of gold or 
 silver lace, and spangles shaped like horns, falling 
 over and concealing the plait of hair behind. 
 
 Munich is situated on an extensive plain, and 
 is a very handsome town. The houses are 
 superb, the streets airy and spacious, and the 
 suburbs are very cheerful. We met with good 
 accommodation and moderate charges at the' 
 Croix D'Or. 
 
GARDENS AND GALLERIES. 173 
 
 We first visited the gardens of Munich, and 
 took the grand tour of the Jardin Anglais, which 
 is very extensive, and very beautiful, arranged in 
 English style, with fine trees of every description, 
 smooth green slopes, rustic bridges, and a variety 
 of pretty villas. Biederstein, belonging to the 
 dowager queen, is delightful, and the superb 
 lime trees of the Haf-Garten were surpassingly 
 fragrant. 
 
 We passed a morning at the Glypothek, the 
 exterior of which is handsome, and the interior 
 the same. The suite of rooms are superb, with 
 marble floors and stands for the Egyptian and 
 Grecian antiquities. The former are hideous, the 
 latter exquisite specimens of Athenian and Corin- 
 thian sculpture. The finest modern statues are 
 Canova's Venus, and Thorwaldsen's Adonis. 
 
 The botanical gardens at 'Munich are much 
 neglected, and undeserving of particular de- 
 scription. After inspecting these, we drove to 
 the Campo Santo, having heard it was one of the 
 best in Germany. There were no fine monuments 
 there, and the mauvaise odeur from the Rotunda, 
 where the dead are laid out till interment, and 
 the dreadful effluvia from those already under- 
 ground, but not buried at a sufficient depth, made 
 
 I 3 
 
174 CAMPO SANTO. THE OPERA. 
 
 our walk the most disagreeable of any churchyard 
 tour ever taken. 
 
 The day following our visit to the Campo 
 Santo was the anniversary of the Queen's birth- 
 day. Military bands commenced at an early 
 hour to do honour to her Majesty, and cavalry 
 and infantry lined the streets. Breast-plates 
 and helmets glittered in the sunshine, beautiful 
 music was played in all the principal churches, 
 and the jubilee seemed universal. 
 
 We visited the royal manufactory of porcelain 
 in the Kaufinger Strasse, which contains ex- 
 quisitely beautiful specimens of painting on china, 
 copies from Rubens, Claude Lorraine, Carlo 
 Dolci, Titian, and the best Dutch and Flemish 
 masters. The chef-tfceuvres of the royal col- 
 lection were a group of Spanish children after 
 Murillo, an old spinner at the Mittagsmahl, a 
 merry-making of villagers from Teniers ; copies 
 from Gerard Dow, and from the Grecian An- 
 tiquities in the Glypothek. 
 
 In the evening we went to the Opera. The 
 House is very handsome, the orchestra excellent, 
 the choristers admirable. The daybreak scene, in 
 the opening of the Puritani, was well managed : 
 Elvira warbled charmingly, Bicardo performed 
 his part a merveilk, but we sighed for the elec- 
 
PICTURE GALLERIES. 175 
 
 trifying notes of Lablache, in Giorgio. Queen 
 Henrietta had a woful representative, and Arturo 
 proved a very awkward lover, with a thick, 
 muddy voice, but good taste. The house was 
 crowded, and the parterre particularly gay, from 
 the number of well-dressed, lady-like-looking 
 women there. Each place being taken before- 
 hand, no crush or confusion can occur, every 
 individual having his own reserved seat, to which 
 he is shown on presenting his ticket. 
 
 We visited, and were disappointed with the 
 Duke of Leuchtenberg's gallery. Canova's three 
 Graces, and Magdalen, are exquisite, and there 
 are two or three interesting pictures in the first 
 salon ; a snow scene at " Novalaise au bas du 
 Mont Cenis," and a " Virgin and Child," by the 
 Baronne de Freiburg. In this room stands Napo- 
 leon's Council Table, taken from Malmaison. In 
 the second salon is a Marine View, with a group 
 of soldiers among the ruins, on whom the rays of 
 the setting sun are reflected; one of Salvator Rosa's 
 masterly pictures, A " Marchand de Gibier," 
 by Mieris, admirably painted ; " Peasants playing 
 Cards," by Teniers ; and a " Madonna with the 
 Infant," by Murillo, are among the best in the 
 gallery. 
 
 We drove through some of the suburbs of 
 
 I 4 
 
176 THE PRATER AND PINACOTHEK. 
 
 Munich to the Prater, which was thronged with 
 people ; a mixture of various classes, smoking, 
 beer drinking, and looking gravely happy over 
 brown bread, substantial sausages, geese, ducks, 
 and other delicacies. The gardens were illu- 
 minated, music and children playing, and waltzing 
 commenced just as we quitted the scene. 
 
 The day after this excursion, be it recorded, 
 for the edification and amusement of the reader, 
 that it rained all the morning, afternoon, evening, 
 and night. 
 
 The following morning we visited the Pina- 
 cothek, a very handsome building, with eight 
 large, and twenty-three small rooms of pictures. 
 
 In the second salon the finest pictures were, 
 " The Usurers," by Quentin Matsys ; a Sunset 
 scene, by Roos ; and " Shepherds and their flocks 
 reposing among ruins," by the same artist. 
 
 In the third room is an inimitable portrait 
 of an old man, by Rembrandt; and admirable 
 pictures of fruit, vegetables, and game, by 
 Snyders. 
 
 " The Adoration of the Shepherds," " Christ re- 
 ceiving Penitents," and " The Descent of the Holy 
 Spirit," are the three most masterly paintings, by 
 Rubens, in the fourth salon. 
 
 In the fifth, " A Satyr at Table with some 
 
MUNICH. 177 
 
 Peasants," by Jordaens, is one of the best ; and 
 the game pictures by Weenix are excellent. 
 
 There are some charming pictures by Murillo 
 in the sixth salon. Two beggar-boys eating 
 fruit, two small Spaniards 'playing, and an old 
 woman cleaning the dirty pate of a ragged urchin, 
 all superlatively good. 
 
 The English church at Munich is a very small 
 and humble-looking place of worship. The Ger- 
 man Protestant church is spacious, the service 
 simple and instructive, and the congregation ap- 
 peared very devout. 
 
 Ten days passed pleasantly at Munich in ex- 
 ploring the beauties of nature and wonders of 
 art. We quitted it with great regret, and com- 
 menced our journey to Augsburg on a brilliant 
 summer's day. 
 
 i 3 
 
178 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 AUGSBURG. WURTEMBERG. DARMSTADT. 
 FRANKFORT. THE RHINE. 
 
 THE railroad to Augsburg passes through a very 
 flat uninteresting country. We reached that town 
 in two hours and a half, and were well ac- 
 commodated at the Hotel of the Three Maurs. 
 
 The gate of the Cathedral at Augsburg is very 
 handsome, and richly carved. In the interior of 
 the building are five gothic, white- washed aisles, 
 perfectly simple and unadorned ; but the whole 
 has a chaste and solemn aspect. The town is 
 extremely picturesque ; the houses are of irregular 
 height, painted with a variety of gay colours and 
 with pointed roofs. The streets are broad and 
 airy, and the shops appear to be very good. The 
 Palace is a humble, quaint-looking, ancient edifice 
 situated near the Cathedral. 
 
 The women wear a grotesque head-dress, fixed 
 high on the top of the head, with half a dozen 
 black streamers of rusty-looking riband ; a wild 
 and not very graceful appendage. 
 
AUGSBURG. 179 
 
 Mine host of the Three Maura was a very en- 
 tertaining character, entered con amore into long 
 political discussions, and uttered devout prayers, 
 " for the continued mashority of the Toys, (alias 
 Tories) in England." 
 
 We were much amused with the album of 
 British travellers kept at the hotel. Perkins's 
 and Jones's with troops of children, nobility and 
 gentry, with the olive branches of their respective 
 houses, and awful trains of femmes de chambre, 
 and valets; beginning in the year 1815, "which 
 brought a great and happy day to the hotel when 
 the hero of Waterloo descended in it." 
 
 After resting one night at Augsburg we pursued 
 our journey early the next day; as we drove 
 through the town, market women were thronging 
 in, laden with vegetables, fruit, and flowers ; 
 which are exposed for sale on each side of the 
 streets. We travelled through a flat but cultivated 
 country, the road bordered by poplars and moun- 
 tain ash; the scene was very varied for many 
 miles, green knolls, forests of fir, and pretty 
 villages in succession. At Zufreithausen we had 
 a very indifferent dejeuner a la fourchette : it is an 
 uninteresting place misnamed a town. After 
 quitting it the country bore a park-like appear- 
 ance. We entered Guntsberg in a storm of 
 
 I 6 
 
1 80 ULM. GEISSLINGEN. 
 
 pelting hail and rain ; the town is quiet and 
 picturesque, and our accommodation and fare at the 
 Hotel de L' Ours were equally good. 
 
 Our next stage was Ulm on the Danube. The 
 country between Guntsberg and Ulm is a con- 
 tinued garden of vegetables; cabbages and potatoes 
 in profusion, with a variety of other choice pro- 
 ductions ; good crops of grain and rich pasture 
 land. Ulm is a clean-looking old town, with a 
 very ancient cathedral, which owing to the tear- 
 ful state of the clouds, we were prevented from 
 visiting. 
 
 Over a rough road through an uninteresting 
 country we journeyed to Geisslingen ; at a distance 
 of half a mile from this quaint-looking picturesque 
 town, the scenery suddenly changed to a Tyrolean 
 glen, beautifully wooded between rocky heights, 
 Our accommodation and fare at the Golden Lion 
 were tolerably good. 
 
 We passed one night there, and started early the 
 following morning. The scenery was rich and 
 varied during the day's journey ; pretty cultivated 
 valleys, wooded hills, and grassy slopes ; the road 
 bordered by pear and apple trees laden with fine 
 fruit. The waggoners and other rustics that we 
 encountered en route wore shorts and shovel hats 
 like the dignitaries of our church. The women 
 
STUTTGARD. 181 
 
 plough and even reap, and cows draw burdens 
 reserved for horses and bullocks elsewhere. We 
 breakfasted at a clean and pretty village. The 
 prospect from the hotel was delightful ; rich green 
 meadows, and a wooded hill with the river Neckar 
 at its base. The day was beautiful ; a summer 
 sky and warm sunshine, giving a glowing light to 
 every variety of rich colour in the wood in front 
 of our auberge. 
 
 The country on approaching Stuttgard is fertile 
 and pretty ; vineyards, fields of grain, and fruit 
 trees in abundance. We entered the town by a 
 solemn avenue of tall poplars. Neither in Bavaria 
 nor Wurtemberg were we annoyed with douanes 
 or passports. Stuttgard is a large handsome, airy, 
 cleanly looking, quiet town, with a fine palace 
 and gardens. Fronting the royal suite of rooms 
 is a lake ; and delicious orange trees abound. 
 The walks are shaded and extensive. In the rear 
 of the palace is a superb bronze statue of Schiller 
 by Thorwaldsen. 
 
 The cathedral is a very ancient edifice. The 
 National Theatre most untheatrical in appearance. 
 There is only one Roman Catholic church in the 
 town. The commerce carried on is trifling. The 
 principal manufactures are of cloth and silk. Our 
 guide informed us the kingdom of Wurtemberg 
 
182 HEILBROM. 
 
 is more free from pauperism than any other in 
 Germany ; the people tranquil and obedient to 
 the laws. 
 
 Our quarters at the Hotel Marquadt were good, 
 and fare excellent. We passed a night there, and 
 the following morning were early en route. 
 
 The road was beautiful, bordered by fine fruit, 
 lime, and chesnut trees ; abundance of grain, every 
 variety of bright poppy, and vine-covered hills in 
 the distance. We passed Ludwigsberg, which is 
 a royal residence ; the town adjoining it very neat 
 and clean. The country continued cultivated and 
 pretty till we reached Heilbrom, an ancient quiet^ 
 looking town. The tower of the old church is 
 handsome ; but with the exception of some very 
 antique sculpture over the altar there is nothing 
 worthy of remark in the interior. Over the Town- 
 Hall is a marvellous clock ; one angel turns an 
 hour-glass, another blows a trumpet, a cock crows, 
 and two golden rains butt each other as the hours 
 strike. 
 
 We left Heilbrom the morning following our 
 arrival, and travelled through an undulating well- 
 wooded country in which pear and apple trees 
 abound. At the Hotel of the Three Kings at 
 Sunshein we had a good dejeuner a la fourchette. 
 After quitting this sunny nook we journeyed on 
 
HEIDELBERG. 183 
 
 in a tempest of wind and rain. The road was 
 bordered by apple trees laden with fruit ; beyond 
 these plains of grain were visible; the pretty 
 villages through which we passed were swarming 
 with fat children. The German females seem as 
 prolific as the peasant women of the Tyrol. 
 
 The approach to Heidelberg is very romantic. 
 The town is situated in a valley, surrounded by 
 lofty hills, richly wooded ; and the bright waters 
 of the Neckar, which is here a broad stream, 
 flowing on till it unites itself with the Rhine. 
 
 We found excellent accommodation at the Prince 
 Carl, the best hotel in the town. The table- 
 <Th6te was well supplied and the attendance good. 
 Eighty or ninety German gentlemen, ladies, and 
 children were present. A band of music played, 
 and the tongues of the community were in exercise 
 as actively as their teeth. A young lady at table, 
 whose lover seemed very devoted, ate crawfish and 
 pudding together; took a mutton chop in her 
 delicate fingers, gracefully sucked the bone, and 
 conveyed fried fish to her pretty mouth in the 
 same unsophisticated style. 
 
 The morning after our arrival we breakfasted 
 in the garden of the chateau. The view from the 
 terrace is superb. The town of Heidelberg, the 
 distant Rhine, and the Hart and Vosges moun- 
 
184 HEIDELBERG. THE CASTLE. 
 
 tains forming the boundary of the magnificent 
 view. 
 
 From the balcony of the chateau there is a fine 
 prospect of the Neckar, winding through the 
 valley, and of the mountains wooded to the very 
 summit. 
 
 The tower is extremely picturesque, and the 
 most solid portion of the building is Queen 
 Elizabeth's, the walls being sixteen feet deep. 
 The Salle du Roi is superb. 
 
 In the ancient chapel there is nothing remark- 
 able, but the figure of the last priest in the con- 
 fessional. The dungeon adjoining the kitchen has 
 a cheerful and agreeable aspect. In the one 
 beyond it darkness only is visible. 
 
 The great ton is deserving of all its celebrity : 
 33 feet long, 24 broad, and capable of containing 
 283,200 bottles of wine. The jolly buffoon 
 Clemens, who drank daily fifteen bottles of wine, 
 looks (in effigy at least) as if, for his stomach's sake, 
 though not burdened with frequent infirmities, he 
 could have imbibed even more of the inspiring 
 juice of the grape. We walked over the ponderous 
 ton, but being faithful disciples of Father Matthew, 
 felt no desire for a return of the " merry wassail 
 days " when its contents were hailed with universal 
 joy. The gate of the chateau is very picturesque : 
 the drawbridge of unusual length. But few of 
 
SCHWETZINGEN. 185 
 
 the antiquities of the Chevalier de Graimberg are 
 worthy of notice, save a good painting representing 
 Louis XIV. as an infant, an interesting picture 
 of Melancthon, and a jolly-looking head of Luther; 
 also a beautiful specimen of sculpture, an apostle 
 reading, by a German of the time of Carl Theodor. 
 After passing some hours among the beautiful 
 ruins of the chateau, we drove to Schwetzingen, 
 the property of the Grand Duke, six miles from 
 Heidelberg. The country is without an un- 
 dulation, but richly cultivated. The women 
 with bare feet were employed in reaping. The 
 rougher labour of ploughing is also performed by 
 the fair sex. The little town of Schwetzingen, 
 with its small inns, contains nothing worthy of 
 remark. The gardens are very extensive ; the 
 orangeries and conservatories are fine, and a pro- 
 fusion of gay flowers bordered each side of the 
 broad entrance walk. The perfume of the orange 
 blossom would have drawn forth friend Mac 
 Dow's favourite exclamation of deleeshuz at every 
 step. Our cicerone, an old soldier decorated 
 with two distinguishing ribands, led us by a 
 pretty trellis walk, covered with American 
 creepers and wild hops, to an unfinished temple of 
 Minerva ; then to the mosque, which is perfectly 
 useless, and with the exception of its pretty 
 
186 DARMSTADT. 
 
 minarets, not ornamental. He exhibited a Roman 
 ruin made at Schwetzingen, and certainly well 
 done. Our guide next conducted us to the large 
 muddy lake, which he shouted forth was "der 
 grosse see." Then to the temple of Apollo, its 
 pretty fountain and rocks ; and afterwards to a 
 comical aviary of bronze birds, who squirted forth 
 a certain portion of water into a small pond. The 
 bath-house of the Grand Duke is very pretty ; 
 and with a little less stiffness and straightness of 
 appearance, the gardens would be delightful. 
 
 Darmstadt was the next resting-place in our 
 journey : the country surrounding it is varied, 
 cultivated, and pretty. At the Hotel zur Traube, 
 adjoining the Duke's palace, we engaged a good 
 suite of apartments, and fared well in every 
 respect. The aspect of the town is tranquillity 
 itself ; grass grows ad libitum in the streets ; and 
 the public gardens are deserted, neglected, de- 
 solate. There are spacious houses arid handsome 
 shops in Darmstadt ; three churches for the 
 Protestants, and one for the Catholics. The 
 Chamber of Peers and Commons and Chancellerie 
 are fine buildings ; the hotels also are good and 
 commodious. 
 
 The population of the duchy is estimated at 
 600,000 souls ; and that of the capital at 24,000. 
 
FRANKFORT. 187 
 
 Living is said to be cheap; meat was sold for 
 eleven kreutzers the pound, and coarse brown 
 bread for three. A day labourer earns forty 
 kreutzers ; and the poor are said to be well pro- 
 vided for ; and yet we saw more poverty of ap- 
 pearance in the abodes of the peasantry and their 
 persons, than in any state previously visited. 
 
 After passing twenty-four hours at Darmstadt 
 we started for Frankfort, distant six stunden, 
 passing through a very flat uninteresting country. 
 
 Frankfort on the Maine is picturesquely si- 
 tuated: it is a fine, extensive, lively-looking 
 town, with abundance of shops, grand hotels, 
 spacious streets, handsome houses, and pleasant 
 Boulevards. Our accommodation at the Hotel 
 de Paris, in the Parade Platz, was excellent ; the 
 fare good, and charges moderate. 
 
 We first visited the Musee Bethman, and saw 
 Dannecker's chef-d'oeuvre of sculpture ; "Ariadne 
 on the Leopard," which is the very perfection of 
 art ; the limbs are beautifully moulded, and the 
 attitude admirable; a subdued light is reflected 
 from above on the whole scene. 
 
 We gave a respectful glance to the house were 
 Goethe was born ; the family arms (three lyres) 
 are still over the door ; the building is very modest 
 and unpretending. There is a noble statue of the 
 
188 BOCKENHEIM. 
 
 Poet, the work of a Milanese artist at the Biblio- 
 theque. 
 
 In the evening we visited the Opera ; the house 
 was dimly lighted, and dirty. Gluck's "Iphi- 
 genia " was performed. " Agamemnon " proved 
 an excellent singer; and from the fat frame of 
 Mrs. Agamemnon issued such rich, melodious 
 sounds, tones of such rare sweetness as are seldom 
 heard. Iphigenia warbled like a nightingale. 
 The orchestra was good, the choristers superior, 
 the scenery admirably managed. We heard the 
 best thunder, and saw the cleverest stage lightning 
 imaginable. The same quiet costume prevailed 
 among the ladies here as at Munich. 
 
 The next day we drove to Bockenheim, through 
 a cultivated but not picturesque country. Sweet 
 gardens and smooth green lawns were attached to 
 the pretty villas bordering the road. We walked 
 to the Mainhiust, a sort of cafe en plein air, where 
 indefatigable knitters, tea and coffee drinkers, 
 smokers, and amateurs of limonade gazeuse as- 
 semble ; bad cake is sold, and worse music played. 
 
 We visited the small French Protestant church 
 at Frankfort, where English Protestants have 
 service once a day ; also the church of Saint 
 Catherine, near the Corps de Garde on the Zeil, 
 where the German Protestants assemble for wor* 
 

 THE RHINE. 189 
 
 ship. There was nothing worthy of admiration 
 in either, and the congregation was very small. 
 
 After visiting the churches we drove to the 
 Cimetiere. The gateway at the entrance is hand- 
 some. Here, as at Munich, there is a room for 
 the reception of dead bodies, which are watched 
 till they give unequivocal signs of dissolution. 
 The cemetery is arranged with great taste ; and 
 the flowers surrounding the resting-places of the 
 dead are luxuriant. Drooping fuschias, rich 
 balsams, blooming roses, the loveliest geraniums, 
 fragrant heliotrope, and sweet mignionette; the 
 scene was gay and bright as a resort of the living, 
 and the walks are shaded by evergreens. Among 
 the monumental tributes to the honoured dead, 
 Thorwaldsen's and Miihler's are the best. 
 
 We left Frankfort in a small track boat, having 
 in tow a very harmonious herd of pigs, grunting, 
 squeaking, snorting, quarrelling, as if possessed by 
 the devils of old. We had to combat with a strong 
 head wind in our teeth; ran aground, and then 
 made very slow progress. The banks of the 
 Maine are flat, but the scenery improves at the 
 junction of the two rivers. 
 
 Old Father Rhine is worthy of all that has 
 been said and sung in its praise in times past and 
 present ; and Mayence, which we reached in the 
 
^ 
 
 190 MAYENCE. 
 
 evening, is beautifully situated : the broad clear 
 river in front, ranges of blue hills in the distance ; 
 a fine line of hotels bordering the busy quay, and 
 Asiatic-looking domes and minarets adding to the 
 picturesque appearance of the town. 
 
 We engaged apartments at the Hotel de May- 
 ence ; were well accommodated, and the fare 
 proved unobjectionable. The morning following 
 our arrival we visited the Cathedral, which has no 
 beauty, but great antiquity, to recommend it to a 
 traveller's notice ; and curious old monumental 
 records of the archbishops and electors of May- 
 ence, from the year 1000. 
 
 The market had a wonderful supply of onions, 
 abundance of cheeses of most villanous odour, 
 fruit, vegetables, ill-made shoes, toys, and trum- 
 pery. The theatre and cassino are neat buildings, 
 and the statue of Gutenberg in bronze is very 
 fine. 
 
 "We crossed the handsome bridge of boats to 
 the railroad station, and reached Wiesbaden in 
 half an hour. The second class carriages on this 
 line are as large and well fitted up as the first 
 class in England or France. 
 
 A very irresistible youth sat opposite to us, 
 whose attention was deeply absorbed in the earnest 
 contemplation of a pair of moustaches of superior 
 
WIESBADEN. 191 
 
 manufacture, at which he gazed lovingly in a 
 little portable glass. 
 
 Wiesbaden is a very interesting excursion from 
 Mayence. The gardens in front of the Kursaal 
 are delightfully arranged : the parterres filled 
 with blooming and fragrant plants ; pretty wind- 
 ing shady paths, and artificial decorations, natu- 
 rally made : a band of music to enliven the 
 company ; a splendid salon de conversation^ with 
 fine marble columns, gilded roof, and the roulette 
 table, of which Mrs. Trollope has given a very 
 graphic account. 
 
 The Colonnade Bazar is filled with Parisian 
 elegancies. The hotels and public baths are 
 splendid ; and pretty houses are built, and build- 
 ing. We visited the promenades for fair and 
 foul weather, for the luckless water drinkers; 
 and only smelt at a respectful distance the hot 
 sulphureous liquor which they are doomed to 
 swallow. 
 
 We quitted Mayence at an early hour, in a 
 new steamer, with a richly decorated cabin redo- 
 lent of paint ; and on the evening of the same 
 day arrived at Boppart, an ancient town, prettily 
 situated on the banks of the Rhine, and proceeded 
 immediately to the Hydropathic Establishment at 
 Marienberg. 
 
192 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 MARIENBERG, NEAR BOPPART ON THE RHINE. 
 
 MARIENBERG, once the peaceful retreat of a pious 
 sisterhood, is now the abode of an eminent prac- 
 titioner in the science of hydropathy, as firmly 
 convinced of the sovereign efficacy ofL'JZaufroide 
 as the learned Dr. Sangrado of the saving pro- 
 perties of UEau chaude. The ancient convent is 
 metamorphosed into a spacious Maison de Sante, 
 the cells of the gentle nuns, into airy and comfort- 
 able dormitories, equally available to heretics as 
 to the faithful; the thaler being the "open sesame" 
 of each ; and to the silvery eloquence of this uni- 
 versal language the Doctor was keenly sensible. 
 
 The cloisters had undergone the same reform 
 with the rest of the building. One room alone 
 remained unchanged. The large banquetting 
 chamber where the sisters celebrated the great 
 festivals of their church is now the refectory of all 
 the patients in the establishment. There is a fine 
 view of old Father Rhine from the front of the 
 
MARIENBERG. 193 
 
 house, which opens on a pretty flowery terrace, 
 the favourite resort of the invalids " at morning 
 prime and dewy eve," and the view from the back 
 of Marienberg is most riante a happy valley and 
 a succession of green and beautifully wooded hills. 
 Much would it rejoice the inner man of Father 
 Matthew to be introduced to the bright, sparkling 
 fluid, flowing in such clear crystal streams, from 
 the verdant mountains of the Rhine : 
 
 " O wie dampft er in die N"ase, 
 O wie sprudelt er im Glase, 
 Welch ein Trank ! " 
 
 Many an ardent worshipper of Champagne, 
 and other ensnaring juices of the grape, would be- 
 come a convert to that delicious beverage, so 
 seldom appreciated by the male descendants of 
 Adam. 
 
 About one hundred votaries were assembled, 
 bringing thither a heavy burden of disease in all 
 its countless forms. The halt, the lame, the deaf, 
 the paralysed, the martyr to gout, the dyspeptic, 
 and rheumatic, and so on ad infinitum ; and some 
 energetic and laudable individuals were there, 
 experimentalists in every new system, having for 
 its "aim and end" the amelioration of human 
 K 
 
194 HYDROPATHIC INSTITUTION. 
 
 suffering. Russians, Germans, Belgians, French, 
 Dutch, Danish, specimens of human nature of 
 various distant regions abounded ; but few from 
 merry England, or bonnie Scotland, and not one 
 solitary branch from the great tree of human life 
 in the Emerald Isle. 
 
 Very primitive hours and simple fare prevailed 
 at the Hydropathic Institution. Cold water, and 
 cold milk, rye bread, and " milch brod," and fresh 
 butter, were liberally dispensed to appease the 
 keen appetites of early risers, returning to break- 
 fast, from a morning ramble on the mountains, at 
 an hour when lazy citizens are pleading for a little 
 more sleep as the sweetest nectar of life. 
 
 At one o'clock the sonorous voice of a huge 
 gong summoned the community to a frugal 
 repast. The soup most in vogue, a kind of inno- 
 cent imitation of gruel, rendered more piquante by 
 a copious allowance of barley husks. The bouillie 
 of an agreeable toughness, and cubical portions 
 of rotie followed. A generous allotment of good 
 farinaceous and esculent vegetables, with preserved 
 fruits a discretion. The Abend Tafel groaned 
 under the same weight of edible luxuries as at 
 breakfast, and the Morgerfsfruh trink again re- 
 joiced the noble heart of man. Water for ever, 
 hurrah I 
 
WATER DRINKING AND BATHS* 195 
 
 " erfrischt das Blut, 
 " Und schafft die Herzen mild und gut," 
 
 The weakest disciple of the Hydropathic faith 
 daily imbibed eight or ten tumblers of Adam's 
 potent ale. Even young maidens evinced their 
 zeal in the good cause, to the amount of twenty- 
 eight similar inflictions per diem \ whilst the bolder 
 energy of man was exhibited to the miraculous 
 extent of fifty glasses. I have heard of some en- 
 thusiastic followers of Preissnitz adding ten to that 
 number. t 
 
 A day of Hydropathic diversions begins at 
 4 A. M., when the patient, even if arrived at years 
 of discretion, submits to a sort of swaddling 
 process, with infantine docility, which, under 
 other circumstances, would be stoutly resisted, as 
 an undue infringement of the liberties of the 
 subject. 
 
 When every member is sufficiently secured 
 against the chance of even an involuntary move- 
 ment, the living mummy remains in bondage for 
 four hours, until every pore in the body is open 
 to overflowing, A mysterious trap-door in the 
 floor of the passage leading to the chamber of the 
 doomed then opens, and a bale of blankets, from 
 which emerges a parboiled human head, is con- 
 
 . K.2. 
 
196 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 signed to the open arms of an easy chair, sinks 
 into the gulph beneath, and is plunged into a flood 
 of icy water from the mountain. After which 
 amusement a brisk walk is enjoined, and when 
 concluded, the inner man is cheered with the 
 breakfast before described. The burden of clothes 
 is again speedily dismissed and a hip bath ad- 
 ministered, in which the sufferer remains three- 
 fourths of an hour, with permission to drink as 
 much water as his physical capacity will admit. 
 Another walk succeeds preparatory to dinner, 
 where shades of character and manner were ex- 
 hibited, more amusing than agreeable. Par 
 exemple, a pen-knife would be substituted for a 
 cure dent, forks also were converted into tooth- 
 picks, and ladies with much feminine grace con- 
 veyed the food to their mouths with a knife, &c. 
 
 Billiards music newspapers sometimes oc- 
 cupied the community for an hour or two before 
 the serious labours of bathing were resumed. 
 Cruikshank, or the immortal Titmarsh, would 
 have found ample food for fun at Marienberg 
 inexhaustible subjects for their unrivalled genius 
 as caricaturists. Par exemple : 
 
 Sights in a morning walk. No. 1. A gentle- 
 man inclining over an ear-bath in the garden 
 especially constructed for the purpose of removing 
 
LIFE AT MARlENBERG* 197 
 
 Deafness zealously squirting water into his oral 
 members. No. 2. Suffering from some obliquity 
 of vision, and intent on relieving the same with 
 the aid of an eye-bath. No. 3. Indefatigable in 
 the application of the curative stream to his nose 
 afflicted with some invisible malady. No. 4. 
 Trembling under the shock of a douche. No. 5. 
 Screaming vigorously in a wave-bath. A water- 
 sprite, pulling a certain string, causes a rush of 
 mimic waves over all appertaining to the body 
 save the head. No. 6. Enduring the slow torture 
 of a bain de poussiere, said to exercise a soothing 
 influence over the nerves. The condemned sits 
 in a species of un-easy chair, surrounded with 
 small metal tubes, from which issue the most 
 infinitesimal streams of water, which creep slowly 
 over the whole frame. 
 
 The number of baths administered during the 
 day varies with the nature of the malady and the 
 strength and bonne volonte of the invalids. I 
 believe eight is a number rarely exceeded by fe- 
 male patients, and ten the general limit with the 
 male. Life at Marienberg is passed in the 
 pleasing alternations of dressing, undressing, 
 bathing, and walking. Bend your steps which 
 way you will, bathers of all sorts and sizes, and 
 
 K 3 
 
198 . CUKE DE RAISINS. 
 
 most questionable shapes, in every variety of dis- 
 guise and dishabille, are hurrying to or emerging 
 from the variety of bathing-places within and 
 without the walls of the ancient convent. 
 
 The treatment of the Cure de Raisins is a 
 bonne louche reserved for autumnal days, and 
 considered by the worthy physician a very im- 
 portant branch of his healing art. The quantity 
 is more seriously regarded than the quality of 
 the fruit. The patient is exhorted to eat lOlbs. 
 daily, and on no account to waste the invaluable 
 seeds and precious skins, both being highly con- 
 ducive to the restoration of his bodily health. 
 Les Raisins are not considered in the light of a 
 don d'amitie, but form a lucrative extra in the 
 bill of fare, and exercise a most economical in- 
 fluence in the doctor's favour, reducing the pa- 
 tient's appetite for more costly fare. 
 
 The expenses incurred at the establishment 
 varied of course with the nature of the accommo- 
 dation. For 10Z. per month all requisite comfort 
 Was attainable, and the fee generally given for 
 the doctor's attendance very moderate ; seldom 
 niore than a monthly donation of four thalers for 
 each individual. 
 
 The servants are contented with a small re- 
 
PIC-NIC PARTIES. 199 
 
 compence. All were German, and few under-- 
 stood a syllable of any language but their own. 
 
 The most remarkable of these would have been 
 a charming subject for one of Hunt's inimitable 
 pictures. A jolly specimen of thriving boyhood, 
 with a face like a full-blown peony, and all his 
 bodily members in keeping therewith, rejoicing 
 in the descriptive cognomen of Wasser Peter 
 a privileged individual, passing his sans souci 
 days in the agreeable occupation of supplying 
 the community at Marienberg with as much of 
 the popular beverage as they required ; an ar- 
 duous task, most smilingly performed. 
 
 Pic-nic parties were of frequent occurrence, 
 and in this fine climate a morning promise of 
 sunshine might be relied on for the succeeding 
 hours of the day. Part of the amusement, I be- 
 lieve, consisted in proceeding to the place of 
 rendezvous, in the rudest country conveyance, 
 constructed in the neighbourhood of Boppart ; 
 of somewhat smaller dimensions than Russell's 
 celebrated waggon, but assaulting the bones of 
 the passenger therein more roughly than the vans 
 of the Egyptian Transit Company. 
 
 While the writer was one of the happy inmates 
 of Marienberg a grand ball was given to the no- 
 bility and gentry of Boppart and its vicinity. 
 
200 BALL AT MARIENBERG. 
 
 The Morning Post or Court Journal alone could 
 give an adequate description of the beauty and 
 fashion then and there assembled ; graceful dames, 
 lovely damosels, and gallant knights of high 
 degree. 
 
 Pre-eminent among the heroes of the night, 
 towered the manly form of one of the most illus- 
 trious dignitaries in Marienberg, Knight of the 
 Steel, and grand carver of the establishment. 
 Next in rank, graceful as the Apollo Belvidere, 
 fleet-footed as an antelope, a very zephyr in the 
 mazes of the dance, was the much sought after 
 and universally admired Knight of the Shears. 
 
 Among the sylphs belle a ravir, a bright par- 
 ticular star shone La cuisiniere. Time would 
 fail me to number the graces of that festive 
 scene ; though memory's magic lantern reflects 
 them all. 
 
 Farewell to thee, sweet Marienberg, thy verdant 
 mountains, thy smiling valleys, bright flowers, 
 and matchless waters ! 
 
 Farewell to the happy family of the great well- 
 washed ! Success to the heads and tails of thy 
 most meritorious establishment and Water for 
 ever, hurrah ! 
 
 " erfrischt das Blut, 
 " Und schafft die Herzen mild und gut ! " 
 
RETURN TO ENGLAND. 201 
 
 The journalist now desires to leave to the 
 lively imagination of the public a swift flight 
 from Marienberg to peerless England, and a happy 
 return to the home of true English hearts, the 
 (< Great Babylon " of modern days. 
 
 Adieu, and with your permission, kind public, 
 Au revoirf 
 
 THE END. 
 
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