LIBRARY OF THE University of California. -1 GIFT OF . Class '\j {J DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE AND LABOR COAST Ai\D geoi)p:tic survev SUPEBINTENDENT ALASI^A COAST PILOT XOTES ON BEIIING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN (Replaces Bulletin No. 40) NOVEMBER 20, 1908 i WASHINGTON OOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICK 1909 DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE AND LABOR XI S. COAST AND GP:0DETIC SURVEY SUPERINTENDENT ALASKA COAST PILOT NOTES ON BERING SEA AND AECTIC OCEAN {Replaces Bulletin No. 40) NOVEMBER; £?0, 1908 ' * • *>* I WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1909 »• • ' » . DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE AND LABOR, Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington, D. C, November 20, 1908. The information contained in this publication relates to the Sannak Islands, Fox Islands Passes, Unalaska Bay, the coast and islands of Bering Sea eastward and northward of Fox Islands Passes, and the Arctic Ocean as far as Point Barrow, and replaces Bulletin No. 40. This publication has been compiled from reports from vessels of the Coast and Geodetic Survey, United States Navy, United States Revenue Cutter Service, and United States Fish Commission, from Mr. S. Applegate, and from all other available sources. To these must be added the information supplied b}^ Lieut. D. H. Jarvis, U. S. R. C. S., who was detailed by the United States Revenue Cutter Service for this duty, and revised the first and second editions of Bulletin No. 40. The first edition of Bulletin No. 40 was issued May 4, 1899. In this publication the available information to date has been added. It has been prepared by Mr. Herbert C. Graves under the direction of J. J. Gilbert, Assistant, Coast and Geodetic Survey, Inspector of Hydrog- raphy and Topography. :'...'•. • :'• As absolute accuracy in a work of this cl8,Bp is scarcely possible, navigators will confer a favor by notifying the Superintendent of the Coast aad Gooootic Survey of errors which they may discover, or of additional matter which they tKink stbuld be inserted for the infor- mation of mariners. O. H. TITTMAKJSr, Superintendent. 218535 N^OTE. The courses and bearings given in degrees are true, reading clockwise from 0° at north to 360°, and are followed by the equivalent magnetic value in points in parentheses. Distances and velocities of currents are in nautical miles. ALASKA. COASr PILOT NOTES ON .BERING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. TIDES. Tide tables for the Pacific Coast of the United States, including British Columbia and Alaska, are published annually by the Coast and Geodetic Survey, predicting the times and heights of tides for every day in the year. On the coast of Alaska, including Bering Sea and the Arctic Ocean, there are usually two unequal high waters and two unequal low waters during the lunar day, the irregularity varying principally with the declination of the moon. When the moon is near the equator the tides are generally nearly equal and have the least diurnal range. When the moon is near its greatest declination (farthest north or south) the tides are very unequal, and are called tropic tides. At such times the difference between the higher high and lower low water is the great tropic range, which is usually the greatest range for the month. In Norton Sound the tides are chiefly diurnal, from the fact that the inequality in the tides when the moon is near its greatest declination is increased to such an extent that the minor tides of the day (lower high water and higher low water) disappear, and but one high water and one low water occur during the lunar day. When the moon is near the equator, however, there are generally two high waters and two low waters, more or less unequal, during the lunar day, but the range of the tides is comparatively small. VARIATION OF THE COMPASS. The magnetic variations for 1910 and armual decrease at points mentioned are as follows: LOCALITY. Variation E. Cape Pankof Unimak Pass 17% Unalaska Bay 17 Amukta Pass 14 St. George Island i *16 St. Paul Island *16 Port Moller 20 Cape Constantine 21i<4 Cape Newenham i 20 West of Nunivak Island (1.5 miles) ' 17J^ Cape Upright, St. Matthew Island i 151^ Cape Chibukak, St. Lawrence Island. . . 16]^ East of St. Lawrence Island (35 miles). i ISJ^ Cape Romanzof - , 18j2 St. Michael i 213^ Unalaklik 1 22}^ Cape Darby I 21i^ LOCALITY. Cape Nome Sledge Island Point Spencer King Island Diomede Islands East Cape West of Cape Prince of Wales (5 miles) Cape Espenberg Chamisso Island, Kotzebue Sound Cape Blossom Point Hope Cape Lisburne Point Lay Icy Cape Point Belcher Point Franklin Point Barrow Variation.! Annual £. decrease. 20H 193^ 19M 19 19 18M 19^ 22>^ 23 J^ 23H 22 23 26 27 28M 29H 31H 5 5 5 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 7 7 8 8 9 9 10 * Localities of local disturbance. » b ALASKA. SANNAK ISLANDS are the southwestern islands of the groups off the southern side of the Alaska Peninsula. They consist of two large islands, Sannak and Caton islands, and a great number of small islands and rocks southward of the former, 203^ miles long and lOK miles wide, and all bare of trees. Sannak Mountain, at the northwest end of Sannak Island, is the prominent object seen in approacliing the group, and is about 3 miles long and 1 mile wide. It is a central peak (Sannak Peak), 1,700 feet high, in latitude 54° 28' N., longitude 162° 45' W., with a shoulder on its east side about 1,300 feet high and one on its west side about 700 feet high. At A}/^ miles eastward from Samiak Peak this ridge again rises to over 200 feet, but all the remainder of the group is but little over 100 feet high on the northern side, decreasing to less than 40 feet high among the islands and rocks forming the south side. From time to time sunken rocks and breakers have been reported in numerous localities northward and northwestward of Sannak Islands; no definite information can be given about them, but their reported positions are shown on Coast and Geodetic Survey Chart 8860. Crowley Rock is the only known danger. The eastern end of Caton Island, the eastern end of the group, is fringed with reefs and breakers to a distance of over 1 mile. With perhaps the exception of Peterson Bay, the entire south side of Sannak Islands is dangerous for a stranger to approach, especially the southwest end. The principal outlying known dangers are: Crowley Rock, lying 1)4 miles off the north side of Sannak Island and 348° true (A'A'Tl'. % W. mag.) from Sannak Peak, is several small pinnacles very close together. The least depth found was about 12 feet, though there may be less, and there are depths of 9 to 15 fathoms close-to. The western end of Sannak Island is fringed with rocks. The westernmost known break lies 1 mile 267° true {WSW. % W. mag.) from the northwestermnost bare rocks of the group, and nearly 2 miles 281° true (W. % S. mag.) from the west point at the entrance to Acherk Harbor. A reef, with five rocks which show above water, lies between 4 and 5 miles southwestward of Clifford Island. What is supposed to be Hennig Rock is the northernmost rock of the reef, and is nearly on the range of Sannak Peak and the western end of Troitz Island, the middle and largest Trinity Island, bearing 71° true {NE. ^ E. mag.), distant 3}4 miles from the island. Oneida Rock, 4 miles 162° true (SE. ^ S. mag.) from Hennig Rock, is the southernmost rock of the reef. It lies 5 miles from Clifford Island, and 224° true (SS W. }4 W. mag.) from Sannak Peak. A narrow bank about 5 miles long in a 120° true (E. by S. mag.) direction is reported to lie 7 miles southwestward of Clifford Island. Depths of 2 to 7 fathoms were found on it, and it is marked by kelp at slack water. The least depth was found at its northwest end which lies 12 miles 238° true (SW. H S. mag.) from Sannak Peak. Aleks Rock is in latitude 54° 20' N., longitude 163° 10' W., and lies 163^ miles 241° true (reaks in heavy weather only, during northeast or southwest swell. It will, until it is found, remain a menace to the free navigation of the vicinity. Some careful navigators, known to me as reliable men, have informed me that they have seen the breakers at a distance in a heavy swell, and I believe them." ANCHORAOES. The anchorages at Sannak Islands are suitable for small or moderate-sized vessels only, and with the exception of Caton Harbor there are no harbors affording shelter from all winds. Acherk Harbor, at the northwest end of Sannak Island, is % mile long and about }4 niile wide, and affords a contracted anchorage for small vessels with protection from southerly and westerly winds, but is exposed to winds from northwest to east, and a swell makes in with strong westerly winds. There is a small settlement at the southeast corner of the harbor, at which there is a boat landing, and water can be obtained by boats. The mean rise and fall of the tide is 5.1 feet. Approaching Acherk Harbor from northward and eastward there are several reported dangers, the positions of which are shown on Coast and Geodetic Survey Chart 8860, but the only known danger is Crowley Rock; the safest way to avoid this rock in coming from east- ward is to keep witliin % mile of the north shore of Sannak Island from abreast Northeast Point. Approaching from northwestward steer for the western hill or shoulder (about 700 feet) of Sannak Mountain on any bearing between 140° true (SE. by E. }4 E. mag.) and 176° true (SSE. mag.); the former bearing leads about % mile northward of the northernmost bare rocks oif the western end of Sannak Island, and the latter bearing leads about % mile west- ward of Crowley Rock. When off the entrance, steer 193° true (S. 34 E. mag.) for the middle of the entrance. Keep in mid-harbor until the peaks of Sannak Mountain are in line and the row of houses on the east are directly under them, and anchor in 5 to 6 fathoms, sandy bottom. There are sunken rocks off the points at the entrance, but they are marked by kelp and can be readily avoided. Murphys Crack is a small indentation about l}4 miles east of Acherk Harbor. It is protected by a reef and affords shelter for the boats of the fishermen who live here. Pavlof Harbor is a small bay about 1 mile east of the eastern base of Sannak Mountain. It is reported to be a good harbor for small craft, but requires local knowledge because of the protecting reefs at the entrance, and vessels drawing more than 7 or 8 feet can not use it. There is a fishing station here, and the only store on the island where supplies can be obtained. Unimak Cove, 134 niiles east of Pavlof Harbor, is an open bight, and unimportant. Johnsons Bay, 134 miles west of Northeast Point, has an inner harbor for boats and small craft, where there is a fishing station, and vessels may anchor just inside the entrance to the bay, favoring the east side, in about 9 fathoms, with protection from southerly and westerly winds. There are some rocks close to the west point at the entrance. Northeast Harbor, at the northeast end of Sannak Island, affords anchorage with shelter from northwest and southwest winds, but is exposed to easterly winds. Northeast Point, forming the north side of the harbor, is about 100 feet high. Eagle Rock, about 50 feet high, lies near the middle of the harbor; it is surrounded close-to by a ledge which covers, and a sunken reef connects it \vith the head of the harbor. Water can be obtained by boats at the liead of the harbor. To enter give Northeast Point a berth of about ^ mile, and anchor between the point and Eagle Rock, slightly favoring the rock, with Chemabura Island just open of Northeast Point, in 6 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. Lida Anchorage is a temporary anchorage in southerly winds, at the west end of Caton Island, south of Lida Island, and which may be entered on either side of the latter. Approaching from eastward stand in near the visible rocks off the east end of Lida Island, taking care to avoid the partially covered reef, nearly 34 rnile eastward of Lida Island, which extends in a northerly direction from Caton Island. Anchor about 3€ mile from Caton Island, 5 SANNAK ISLANDS. and 34 to J^ xiiile southward of Lida Island, in 6 to 7 fathoms, sandy bottom; care should^ he taken not to approach the south side of the anchorage. Approaching from westward steer for the southwestern side of Caton Island on a 144° true (SE. % E. mag.) course, passing about % mile southward of Lida Island, and leaving a rock awash, lying }4 mile northward from Wanda Island, about % mile on the starboard hand, and anchor as directed above. The western end of Lida Island should not be approached closer than }/2 mile. Caton Harbor is a large area with general depths of 2 to 3 fathoms, sandy bottom, on the southwest side of Caton Island, protected on the south by Elma Island and on the north- west by the islands and reefs, above water in many places, between Caton Island and Sannak Island. It is protected from all swells, and schooners of considerable size have wintered here. The entrance is narrow and is close to the west end of Caton Island; there is another entrance, crooked and very narrow, between Elma Island and the southeast end of Sannak Island, but its approach from southward is full of rocks and reefs, and it should not be used except \vith local knowledge. To enter Caton Harbor from northward proceed as directed for entering Lida Anchorage from westward, and when well past the rock awash, mentioned under Lida Anchorage, bring the south side of the rock awash in range with Northeast Point astern, and stand in, keeping the range astern, course 125° true (ESB. 14 E. mag.), until close to Caton Island. Then keep the bare rocks and kelp projecting from Caton Island close aboard on the port hand, but do not approach the kelp on the starboard hand; the least depth found in the narrowest part of the passage was 43^ fathoms, shoaling inside to 33^ and 3 fathoms. When past the rocks on the port hand steer about 193° true (S. 3^ E. mag.) about J4 mile, and anchor in about 3 fathoms with Princess Rock (high, grassy on top, extensive surrounding reefs covered at high water) in line with Sannak Mountain, bearing 294° true (W. }/^ N. mag.) This anchorage is about }4 mile from Caton Island, and the same distance from the nearest reef on the western side. Anchorage, with probably better shelter from northeast gales, can be made off the sand beach on Caton Island, just inside the narrow entrance. Peterson Bay, on the south side of Sannak Island, is well protected from all but south- east winds, especially for small vessels, of 12 feet or less draft, which can anchor well inside the bay abreast the village which is on the north side. The people living here say that in heavy northeast winter gales a heavy swell makes into the bay. The bay is over 1 3^ miles long 300° true (W. by N. mag.), nearly 3^ mile wide at the entrance and ^ mile wide at the head, with about 5 fathoms at the entrance and shoaling gradually toward the head, where there is 12 to 14 feet in the widest part of the bay. There is a spot with 1 1 feet over it 350 yards off the south side and 344° true (NW. by N. mag.) from the south point at the entrance. The mean rise and fall of the tide is 4.4 feet. To enter, in approaching from eastward give the east and southeast sides of Caton Island a berth of about 2 miles to clear the reefs and breakers wliich extend more than 1 mile off shore, and steer 262° true (SW. by W. ^ W. mdg.) passing 1 mile southward of Umla Island and Telemitz Island. When the latter island is abeam bring the tangent of the north side of Peterson Bay in line with the slight saddle between Sannak Peak and the eastern shoulder of Sannak Mountain, and run in on tliis range, course 318° true (NW. by W. % W. mag.). When the south point of the bay is about ^ mile distant, haul northward a little so as to bring the north side of > the bay in line with the extreme southwest tangent of Sannak Mountain, and run in on this range, course 311° true (WNW. mag.), until the south point at the entrance bears 187° true (S. by E. mag.). Then steer 294° true (W. }4 N. mag.) for the middle of the bay and select anchorage according to draft. IKATAN BAY AND ISANOTSKI STRAIT separate Unimak Island from the Alaska Peninsula, and have been used by light-draft craft, intended for service on the Yukon River, in making the passage from Puget Sound ports to St. Michael. But the strait is subject to very strong tidal currents, and the northern entrance is shoal and requires local knowledge. Northerly winds draw through the strait with great force. Q < I- < UJ o CE < CO < Z D u." O z < Q. UJ Q. < o IKATAN BAY AND ISANOTSKI STRAIT. 9 Ikatan Bay, ou the north side of Ikatan Peniusula, is about Sj^ miles wide aud 5 miles long ill a soiithwest direction, and is free from surf except with winds from north to east. Sankin Island lying 1 mile from the north side of the bay, is high, with a rounded, grassy summit; a reef extends from the island toward the nearest point of the peninsula. It is reported that there is no safe passage for vessels northward of the island, and that Sankin Bay, northwestward of Sankin Island, is shoal. The southwest end of Ikatan Bay is separated from Otter Cove by an isthmus, 20 to 30 feet liigh; a river enters Ikatan Bay at the middle of this low land, and a sub- merged spit, which drops off abruptly to over 20 fathoms, makes off from its mouth. In approaching Ikatan Bay from southwestward the only known danger is Pankof Breaker, lying a little over 2 miles 53° true {NE. by N. mag.) from the southeast point at the entrance to East Anchor Cove. To avoid the rock, round Cape Pankof at a distance of 1 mile and steer 325° true (NW. % W. mag.) following the northeastern coast of Ikatan Peninsula at a distance of 1 mile. There is a good anchorage in the bight on the west side of Ikatan Point, the south point at the entrance to the bay, in about 9 fathoms, sand and mud bottom, with protection from winds from southeast to southwest; water can be conveniently obtained here. The best anchor- age in Ikatan Bay from all southerly winds is on its south side off the low divide leading to Dora Harbor, and 174° true {SSE. ]4, E. mag.) from Sankin Island. In approaching this anchorage bring Bird Island in sight over the middle of the low land, and anchor in any depth desired, as it shoals gradually to the beach. Anchorage can also be made on the north side of the baj", 2% miles westward of Sankin Island, in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, sheltered from ordinary northerly winds, but badly exposed to easterly and southerly winds. Isanotski Strait has its southerly entrance at the northwest end of Ikatan Bay. This entrance is narrow, and a reef projects from the east point at the entrance, and another from the next point on the west side inside the entrance, and the swirls around them show plainly. In tKe southern and narrow part of the strait a mid-channel course should be followed. There is an extensive shoal, or flat, in the northern and widest portion of the strait, lying eastward of the channel, and southward of the outlet into Bering Sea. The channel westward of the shoal is said to have a depth of about 2 fathoms. The northern entrance is obstructed by shoals, probably of a shifting nature, and can be used only by light-draft vessels with local knowledge. Traders Cove, on the eastern side of Isanotski Strait about 7 miles above its entrance from Ikatan Bay, is a good anchorage. Morzhovoi, a mission and native village, is on the south side. Fresh water can be obtained at the southeast comer of the cove near the village. The anchorage is in the middle of the cove off the village, with the Greek church bearing about 111° true {E. }4 S. mag.), in 4)^ fathoms, muddy bottom. Strong winds and williwaws blow across the cove, biit the anchorage is good. Tides. — The mean rise and fall in Ikatan Bay is 4.5 feet. In the narrow southern part of Isanotski Strait the tidal currents have a velocity of 7 to 9 miles or more, and it is said that there is practically no slack and that the current turns about three hours after high or low water in Ikatan Bay. IKATAN PENINSULA, the southeastern extremity of Unimak Island, is about 13 miles long, and is divided into three mountain masses and from Unimak Island by low depressions wliich extend from West Anchor Cove to East Anchor Cove, and from Dora Harbor and Otter Cove to Ikatan Bay. Cape Pankof (see view), the eastern end of Ikatan Peninsula, terminates in three cliffs on the southern side, the highest about 1,200 feet, but on the northern side there is a gentle slope to the low isthmus between East and West Anchor coves. Some bare rocks lie witliin ]4 mile from the cape. Pankof Breaker lies a little over 2 miles 53° true {NE. by N. mag.) from the southeast point at the entrance to East Anchor Cove. It is a pinnacle rock, judging from the appearance of the break, with probably less than 10 feet over it and 13 to 25 fathoms close to. 10 IKATAN PKNINSITLA. A rock, said to have about 4 fathoms over it and to break in a southwest swell, is reported to lie about 2 miles 120° true (E. by S. mag.) from Cape Pankof. Bird Island, about }4 mile in extent, 750 feet high, and precipitous, lies 2 miles from the south coast of Ikatan Peninsula, off the entrance to Dora Harbor, and 8 miles westward from Cape Pankof. A sunken reef connects the island with the western point at the entrance to Dora Harbor, and there is no safe passage for vessels between. The western end of the island should not be approached closer than 3^ mile. East Anchor Cove, on the north side of Cape Pankof, is a good anchorage except with winds from north to southeast. The cove is large and easily entered, and the only known danger in the approach is Pankof Breaker. To enter give the southeast pomt at the entrance a berth of over 3^ mile, and select anchorage as desired in 7 to 10 fathoms. The cove is free from dangers if the shore be given a berth of about 34 mile. West Anchor Cove, on the southern side of Ikatan Peninsula, about midway between Cape Pankof and Bird Island, affords anchorage with shelter from northerly winds and probably from easterly winds, but there is always more or less surf in the cove, and it should be regarded as a temporary anchorage only until it is better known. No sounding has been done in the cove. The McArthur anchored for one night in the bight on the northern side, 1 mile inside the western point at the entrance, in 13 fathoms, sandy bottom. The survey shows a number of rocks off the southeast point at the entrance, and one large rock about 34 mile from shore. A reef, said to be partly bare at extreme low water and with a rock about 15 feet high near its end, is reported to extend 1 3^ miles southwestward from the southeast point at the entrance. The same report states that a reef makes out, about 34 T^vi\e. from the middle of the north shore of the cove. It is reported that the eastern end of the cove has ledges, bare at low water, and rocky bottom. Dora Harbor, on the south side of Ikatan Peninsula, 2 miles north of Bird Island, affords good anchorage with protection from all winds and swell, especially for vessels of about 9 feet or less draft, which can anclior near the head. The entire shore of the harbor is fringed by ledges, partly bare at low water, to a distance of about 300 yards. ^ The reef extending J^ mile westward from the eastern point of the entrance, and that projecting from the western point toward Bird Island afford protection from ordinary southerly and westerly swell at the outer anchorage, but a heavy swell from southward is uncomfortable. The inner harbor is a slight expansion at the head with depths of 10 to 12 feet in the middle; there is a fishing station and stream on its west side. To enter Dora Harbor, steer for the west point at the entrance on a 334° true (NW. mag.) course, passing % mile northeastward of Bird Island. When the north end of Bird Island bears on the port beam steer 350° true (NNW. }/2. W. mag.). Keep in mid-harbor and anchor with the east point at the entrance bearing 154° true (SE. mag.) and the west point 249° true (S W. Yi W. mag.) in about 5 fathoms. This anchorage is about midway between the east point at the entrance and a projecting point on the west side halfway up the harbor, and the clear width of the anchorage is 3€ mile. Vessels of 9 feet or less draft may follow a mid-harbor course and anchor in the middle of the inner harbor, off the fishing station, in 12 feet of water. Otter Cove is an open bight at the northwest end of Ikatan Peninsula. It is exposed to southerly winds and to the Pacific swell, and there is always a heavy surf. Northerly winds blow with great violence over the low isthmus separating it from Ikatan Bay. The only safe boat landing is in its eastern comer. A rock awash at low water lies over 3^ mile from the shore of Ikatan- Peninsula and 33^ miles northwestward from Bird Island. SOUTH COAST OF UNIMAK ISLAND FROM OTTER COVE TO CAPE SARICHEF. This coast, having a length of about 70 miles, has cliffs in places, with lower land and sand beaches between, and is backed by the high mountain masses of the central part of the island. The coast is fairly regular, with no indentations of any extent, and there are no harbors nor sheltered anchorages. The coast is exposed to the ocean swell, and there is generally a heavy surf, which makes landing dangerous. From the few soundings made, the 10-fathom PROMONTORY HILL, UNIMAK ISLAND-FROM EASTWARD. PINNACLE ROCK, SCOTCH CAP, NW. ^ W. I'NIMAK ISLAND. 11 curve is less than % mile from the beach in most places, and there are no known outlying danpjers. Cape Lazaref is the southwesternmost of three high cliffs, with sand beaches between, which are found in a distance of about 8 miles south westward of Otter Cove, and is 1,000 feet high. From the sharp point of the cape a reef extends l^g miles southeastward, consisting of two rocks about 150 feet high and another about 70 feet high midway between them, and a multitude of low rocks close together. The outer pinnacle lies 18}4 miles 258° true (SW. by IF. }4 W. mag.) from Cape Pankof. Anchorage, with fairly good protection from westerly winds, can be made northeastward of this reef, about }4 mile southward of a bunch of rocks lying '^ mile olf the eastern side of the cape, in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom. A rocky islet about 130 feet liigh lies 114 miles westward of the cape and ^g mile from the beach. From Cape Lazaref the coast trends westward, curving gradually southward for about 30 miles, forming a broad, open bight called Unimak Bay, having a sandy beach. This sand beach is broken by a lava bed 8}4 miles westward of Cape Lazaref, and by three conical hills, the southernmost reacliing the water and formed into several columns, making a small pro- jection (Rukavitsie Cape), 15 miles westward of Cape Lazaref. At the southern end of the sand beach there is a broad valley, the south point of which is a sharp projection, with steep sides and about 350 feet high, which forms a small cove (Promontory Cove) open north- ward, which is reported to afford anchorage with protection from southerly winds but not from the swell. The bottom is sandy and the shoaling toward the beach gradual. Cape Lutke, 2^ miles southward of Promontory Cove, is a cliff 538 feet high, joined by a lower ridge to the higher land farther back, and is the southwestern head of Unimak Bay. At this point the coast changes direction to southwestward and then westward for 13 miles to Seal Cape. Arch Point, 3 miles northeastward of Seal Cape, is a rocky projection 40 feet high with an arch tlirough the extremity of the point. Promontory Hill (see view), 5 miles northeastward from Seal Cape, is a short ridge, a})out 1,130 feet high, having a northwest and southeast direction, and detached from the interior high land. Its outlines are smoothly rounded and there is a slight saddle in the ridge, the whole having a bare, brown appearance. It is isolated and prominent, and together with Scotch Cap is a good landmark for the eastern entrance to Unimak Pass. Seal Cape is not particularly noticeable, but the locality is well marked by Promontory llill, Arch Point, and Scotch Cap. From Seal Cape around to Cape Sarichef, a distance of 19 miles, the coast of Unimak Island has a number of projecting points, is low in appearance, and slopes gradually upward to the high laud of the island. There are low blufi's in places, but none so high as Scotch Cap or which can be mistaken for it. There are no dangers if the coast be given a berth of 3^ mile. Scotch Cap lighthouse is about 1% miles eastward of Scotch Cap in approximately latitude 54° 24' N., longitude 164° 45' W. The structure is a white, octagonal building and tower, and there are a number of buildings near it. The light is fixed white, third order, elevated 90 feet above high water, and should be visible 15 miles in clear weather when bear- ing from 277° true {W. by S. mag.) through north to 108° true (E. mag.). The fog signal is a 10-inch compressed-air whistle giving blasts of 5 seconds' duration separated by silent intervals of 55 seconds. Scotch Cap (see view) is a precipitous cliff of rock which extends along the beach nearly 1 mile. It is 420 feet high at its highest point and becomes lower at either end. Back of the face of the cliff the land slopes downward for nearly 1 mile, and then rises by a uniform slope to the higher land of the island. In front of the cliff, 50 yards from its foot, is a large pinnacle rock 172 feet high. Scotch Cap can be seen many miles in clear weather and is unmistakable. Cape Sarichef, the western end of Unimak Island, is the eastern point at the north- western entrance to Unimak Pass. The cape is about 100 feet high, with steep grassy sides, 12 UNIMAK ISLAND. aud the land back of the cape slopes gradually upward to Pogrouuii Volcauo. There is a black lava bed along the beach south of the cape, and 2 miles south of the cape there is a fiat rock barely detached from the coast. Cape Sarichef lighthouse, on the summit of the cape, is in approximately latitude 54° 36' N., longitude 164° 56' W. The structure is a white, octagonal building and tower, and there are a number of buildings near it. The light is fixed white, third order, elevated 1263^ feet above the water, and should be visible 173^ miles in clear weather when bearing from 16° true (N. Vs W. mag.) through east to 218° true (S. by W. % W. mag.). The fog signal is a first-class, compressed-air siren giving blasts of 3 seconds' duration separated by alternate silent intervals of 5 and 49 seconds. DIRECTIONS PROM UMGA ISLAND THROUGH UNIMAK PASS TO CAPE KALEKTA. The waters on the southern side of the Alaska Peninsula eastward of Umga Island have not been surveyed, but the general track of vessels through the inside passage is described in Coast and Geodetic Survey Bulletin Xo. 38. The directions following are based on surveys by parties of the Coast and Geodetic Survey in 1901. I. Umga Island to Seal Cape. — Pass about ^ mile westward of Umga Island and steer 225° true (SSW. % W. mag.) for 143^ miles, which should lead to a position IJ^ miles south- eastward of Cape Pankof. On this course Pankof Breaker should be left 23i miles on the starboard hand. From a position 1}4 miles southeastward of Cape Pankof make good a 253° true (SW. J^ W. mag.) course. The southernmost pinnacle rock at Cape Lazaref should be left about 33^ miles on the starboard hand, and the coast of the southern end of Unimak Island should be given a berth of about 2 miles. This course made good for 58 miles should lead to a posi- tion with Seal Cape on the starboard beam distant 23^ miles; Scotch Cap lighthouse should then bear about 302° true {WNW. % W. mag.) distant about 5 miles. Then follow the directions in section II. II. Through Unimak Pass to Akun Head. — When crossing Unimak Pass the tidal current with a maximum velocity at strength of about 4 miles will be on the bow or quarter, and allowance must be made for it to make the course good (see page 13). From a position 2 ^4, miles southeastward of Seal Cape with Scotch Cap lighthouse bearing 302° true {WNW. % W. mag.) distant about 5 miles, make good a 268° true (WSW. 3i W. mag.) course for 36 miles, which should lead to a position 2 miles 349° true {NNW. y^ W. mag.) from Akun Head. Then follow the directions in sectioii III. The course should lead 2 miles northward of the eastern headland at the north end of Akun Island when 5 miles from Akun Head. III. From AJcun Head to Cape Kalekta. — From a position 2 miles 349° true {NNW. Yi W. mag.) from Akun Head make good a 249° true (SW. ^ W. mag.) course for 14 miles to a position with the western head at the north end of Akutan Island bearing 141° true {SE. by E. mag.) distant 2 miles. From this position make good a 224° true (SSW. % W. mag.) course for 183^ miles, which should lead to a position about 1 mile northwestward of Cape Kalekta. Then follow the directions for Unalaska Bay, page 24. In crossing from Akutan Island to Cape Kalekta care should be taken not to be set off the course by the tidal currents setting to or from Akutan and Unalga passes (see page 14). FOX ISLANDS AND PASSES. The three large islands, Unimak, Unalaska, Umnak, and their associated islands, lying westward of Alaska Peninsula, are known as the Fox Islands. The islands of this group are high, bare of trees, and generally grass-covered, and terminate generally at the water in precipitous cliffs. Most of them have numerous pinnacle rocks close to the shore. They FOX ISU\.NDS AND PASSES. 13 are frequented by birds in enormous numbers, and immense flocks of them are frequently met with when in their vicinity. The highest peaks which, in clear weather, are prominent landmarks for mariners are: Shishaldin Volcano, on Unhnak Island, 9,387 feet high, in latitude 54° 45' 23" N. and longitude 163° 58' W., is cone-shaped and very regular in outline, with faint wreaths of smoke and vapor at times drifting from its summit. It is for the most part snow-clad, except where the rocky cliffs and projections afford no lodgment. Isanotski, on Unimak Island, in latitude 54° 46' N. and longitude 163° 43' 30" W., is seen close eastward of Shishaldin, very rugged, and having a broken or castellated double peak, the highest 8,088 feet high. The summit is bare and looks as though composed of great vertical rock masses. Pogromni Volcano, about 8 miles from the western end of Unimak Island, in latitude 54° 34' 16" N. and longitude 164° 41' 30" W., is 6,500 feet high, a snow-clad, conical peak, vertical ridges cropping through the snow. Pogromni is a guiding landmark in clear weather in making Unimak Pass, both from southward and from Bering Sea. Makushin Volcano, on the northwestern side of Unalaska Island, in latitude 53° 52' 20" N. and longitude 166° 50' 40" W. (approximately), is 5,691 feet high, and in clear weather is a prominent landmark for vessels bound to Dutch Harbor from Bering Sea. These mountains are excellent landmarks if they can be seen, but in summer they are often obscured by fogs or low-lying clouds. The lower hills and islands and objects near the sea level generally furnish the available landmarks. From southward arid eastward, bound for Bering Sea, there are three passes used by deep- draft vessels, known collectively as the Fox Islands Passes, and respectively as Unimak, Akutan, and Unalga passes. The largest and most desirable one to use in thick and foggy weather is the eastern one, Unimak Pass. This is clear of liidden dangers, the widest of the three, and is comparatively free from tide rips. It is especially recommended for sailing vessels, and for steamers bound northward direct. Akutan and Unalga passes are convenient, with daylight and clear weather, for steam vessels bound to Unalaska Bay, but, being narrow and having strong currents and tide rips at times, are not recommended for sailing vessels bound north. A fair wind is almost necessary for the passage, and from southward this would bring thick weather. The minor passes between the islands westward of Unimak Pass are described under their several headings following. Soundings. — Southward of the passes the 100-fathom curve is 20 to 40 miles offshore, and when inside of this depth the color of the water will have changed from dark blue to hght green. This change in the color of the water is the best indication the mariner has in thick weather to warn him of his approach to land and that he is on soundings. Southwest of Unimak Pass the 50-fathom curve is 3 to'5 miles offshore, and in thick weather the greatest caution should be used in approaching inside of this depth. Southeast of Unimak Pass the water shoals rapidly from 100 fathoms to Davidson Bank, on which a least depth of 36 fathoms is marked 27 miles from Ugamak Island. Tidal Currents and Tide Rips. — In the vicinity of the passes the tidal currents have considerable velocity, and their direction and times of change are uncertain; they are also greatly influenced by winds. In navigating near the entrances to the passes the current should be kept in mind and precautions be taken to guard against being carried into dangerous localities, especially in thick weather. In Unimak Pass the observed maximum velocity of the current is about 4 miles per hour, and its velocity is greater near Scotch Cap and Ugamak Island than in the middle of the pass. The northerly (flood) current begins about three hours before the time of high water at Kodiak and the southerly (ebb) current begins about three hours before the time of low water at Kodiak as taken from the Coast and Geodetic Survey Tide Tables. The tide rips, during the largest tides and when a strong wind opposes the current, are strong but not dangerousto well-found sailing vessels or steamers. 14 FOX ISLANDS AND PASSES. In Akutan Pass the currents have an estimated maximum velocity of 6 to 7 miles per hour. The northerly (flood) current begins about three hours before the time -of high water at Kodiak and the southerly (ebb) current begins about three hours before the time of low water at Kodiak as taken from the Coast and Geodetic Survey Tide Tables. There are strong tide rips during the periods of largest tides; but the strongest rips are not generally foimd in the middle of the pass. With a current setting northward the rips will be strongest in the northern entrance from Cape Kalekta and Akutan Island to Unalga Island, and with a current setting southward the strongest rips will be found at the southern entrance to the pass. When the current setting north is opposed by a strong northerly wind the tide rips in the northern entrance to the pass are dangerous, and it is advisable not to use this pass in a gale. Under ordinary conditions, when there are no strong winds, this pass can be used by full-powered steamers at any stage of the current, but sailing vessels should not use it unless they happen to enter at or near slack water. It is stated that the most dangerous rips occur at the north entrance to the pass. In Unalga Pass the currents have an estimated maximum velocity of about 9 miles an hour, and the times for the beginning of flood and ebb currents are the same as for Akutan Pass. The tide rips prevail under the same general conditions as in Akutan Pass, except that they are, if anything, heavier and more dangerous in a gale. The duration of both flood and ebb is subject to considerable variation in these passes, 80 that too much reliance should not be placed upon the times given above. Assistant J. J. Gilbert, commanding Coast and Geodetic Survey steamer Pathfinder, who surveyed the Fox Islands Pas.ses in 1901, states that ' 'they [tide rips in Akutan and Unalga passes] .occur during spring tides, when tlie currents are strong, and usually when there is a strong wind or swell from the other direction; this condition is not indispensable, for, on one occasion, there was neither wind nor sea, when suddenly we were in the midst of the rips, and had wet things pretty thoroughly before the hawse pipes could be closed." When the tide rips are heaviest in Akutan and Unalga passes, the water is broken into heavy choppy seas from all directions, wliich board the vessel and make it difficult to keep control even of large, powerful steamers. The general condition of fog and weather described on page 27 apply also to the vicinity of the Fox Islands Passes. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR APPROACHING UNIMAK PASS FROM SOUTHEASTWARD. Note. — In the directions .following no allowance has been made for the tidal currents, which have considerable velocity in Unimak Pass; this should be kept in mind in order to make the courses good. Unimak Pass is the widest of the Fox Islands Passes, being about 10 miles wide at its narrowest part, between Ugamak Island and Scotch Cap. It is free from outlying dangers and dangerous tide rips, and the tidal currents have less velocity than in the other passes. Except near the shores, it is free from williwaws. It is the most desirable pass for sailing vessels and for vessels not calling at Dutch Harbor. The directions for appro3.ching this pass are also good for vessels desiring to pass through Akutan and Unalga passes. When approaching the passes from southward and eastward, care must be taken to avoid the Sannak Reefs and the reported localities of Anderson and Lenard rocks. A good rule is to make longitude 164" W. while still south of latitude 54'' N. and then stand northwestward to make Seal Cape. If the weather is very clear the mountains of Unimak Island may be seen and recognized and the course .shaped for ITnimak Pass; but under ordinary conditions Prom- ontory Hill back of Seal Cape, Tigalda Island, or ITgamak Island, will be the first land sighted. If Tigalda Island is .sighted at a flistance wlien approaching Unimak Pa.ss, it will appear as a number of .small, detached islands, but when seen closer to it is one island with six distiiu^t mountain ridges. XJNIMAK PASS. 15 A 355° true (NNW. mag.) course heading for Pogromui Volcano will lead nearly for Seal Cape, passing about 4 miles eastward of Ugamak Island. If the weather is thick, soundings on Davidson Bank may be of use in feeling the way in to the land. In the vicinity of Seal Cape the coast is bold and may be approached with caution close enough (from J^ to % mile) to be seen and to be followed until some point is recognized by which the vessel's position may be known. A vessel should first be sure of her position before attempting to enter Unimak Pass and in thick weather should not attempt the other passes. In thick weather, if the land is made in the vicinity of Seal Cape a vessel may stand westward, following the beacli and giving it a berth of % mile or more until Scotch Cap lighthouse or Scotch Cap is made and recognized. With Scotch Cap lighthouse bearing 18° true (A^. mag.), distant 1 to 2 miles, steer 288° true (W. mag.) for 6 miles, and then steer 333° tnie (NW. mag.), which shovild give the coast of Unimak Island a berth of about 2}^ miles, and the course made good for about 11 miles should lead to a position 5 miles 254° true {SW. by W. mag.) from Cape Sarichef. Or, if bound to Unalaska Bay, when Scotch Cap lighthouse bears 18° true (A^. mag.), distant 1 to 2 miles, a 266° true (WSW. mag.) course made good for 31 miles should lead about 2 miles northward of Akun Head. In coming from southeastward, when Ugamak Island is sighted shape the course to pass about 2 miles northeastward of it, and then: From a position 2 miles 63° true {NE. mag.) from the northeast end of Ugamak Island make good a 322° true (NW. by W. mag.) course for 10 miles to a position with Scotch Cap lighthouse bearing 74° true {NE. by E. mag.), distant 5)4 miles. Then steer 333° true (NW. mag.), with the northeastern end of Ugamak Island astern, and give the coast of Unimak Island a berth of about 2J^ miles; this course made good for 133^ miles should lead to a position with Cape Sarichef lighthouse bearing 74° true {NE. by E. mag.), distant 5 miles. Then follow the directions for Bering Sea on page 47. Or, if hound to Unalaska Bay, from a position 2 miles 18° true {N. mag.) of the northeast end of Ugamak Island make good a 280° true (W. ^ S. mag.) course for 26 miles, which should lead to a position 2 miles northward of the eastern head at the north end of Akun Island. Then steer 268° true (WSW. }4 W. mag.) about 5 miles to a position 2 miles 349° true {NNW. M W. mag.) from Akun Head. Then follow the directions in section III, page 12. UGAMAK ISLAND, on the southwest side at the southeast entrance to Unimak Pass, lies 10 miles southward of Unimak Island, and its southeast point is in latitude 54° 13' N.. longitude 164° 46' W. The island is rugged with cliffs at the shore, and 1,000 feet high at the eastern end, where there is a sharp peak. Near the middle of the island there is a knob nearly as high as the eastern end. The island is fringed with kelp and bare rocks close-to, but there are no known outlying dangers. There is no harbor at the island. Aiktak Island lies }4 mile southward of Ugamak Island; its south side is a cliff about 600 feet high. Ugamak Strait, between Ugamak and Aiktak islands on the north and Kaligagan Island on the south', has a width of 3 miles, and there are no knowTi liidden dangers. Passing 1 mile southward of Aiktak Island, a 290° true (W. }4 N. mag.) course, heading for the north end of Akun Island is considered safe, and carries through the passage in mid-channel. TIGALDA ISLAND, the south side of which is in latitude 54° 04' N., is separated from Ugamak Island by Ugamak Strait. The island is 11 miles long and about ^\<2 miles wide, and consists of six mountain ridges, 1,200 to 1,800 feet high, separated by low valleys having a northwesterly direction. The western end of the island is comparatively low. Kaligagan Island, lying in Ugamak Strait % mile off the northeast end of Tigalda Island, is % mile long and about 300 feet high. A large number of high, bare rocks extend 2i/^ miles westward of Kaligagan Island,'and the 16 TIGALDA ISLAND. outermost lies 1% miles from Tigalda Island. Two rounded rocks lie }4 mile off the south side of Tigalda Island, and an islet 100 feet high hes close to the island midway between these rocks and the western end of Tigalda Island. Tigalda Bay, on the north side of Tigalda Island 3 miles from its eastern end, is a sheltered anchorage except from northwest winds. The bay is about ^ mile wide, and 1 J^ miles long in a 108° true (E. mag.) direction, and has depths of 8 to 10 fathoms, rocky bottom. The mean rise and fall of tides is 0.9 foot. To enter Tigalda Bay, from Ugamak Strait, pass }/2 mile or more northward and westward of the outermost bare rock, lying 2J/^ miles westward of Kaligagan Island, and steer 204° true (S. 3^ W. mag.) for 2}4 miles. Tigalda Bay should then be open on the port beam. Enter the bay in mid-channel and select anchorage near the middle, taking care not to approach the head nearer than about % mile. Approaching from southwestward ihrougJi Avatanak Strait, follow the north side of Tigalda Island, giving it a berth of about 1 mile until heading about 112° true (E. % S. mag.) for the entrance to the bay; on this course Tanginak Islet, about 80 feet high, should be astern and the highest peak (1,400 feet) close to the east end of Tigalda Island should be ahead. Enter the bay and anchor as directed in the preceding paragraph. Derbin Strait, separating Tigalda and Avatanak islands, is a little over 1 mile wide, and there are no known hidden dangers. A mid-channel course through the strait, 326° true (NW. J^ W. mag.), with the northeast headland of Akun Island ahead, is considered safe. AVATANAK ISLAND, lying southwestward of Tigalda Island, is separated from Akun Island by Avatanak Strait. The island is about 9 miles long and over 3 miles wide at its eastern end, but the western half of the island averages less than ^ mile wide. The middle of the island is a great depression whose sides slope gently upward to the mountains at its eastern and western ends, which are about 1,700 and 1,500 feet high, respectively. Clusters of bare rocks extend about % mile off the southeast and west ends of the island, and Basalt Rock about 30 feet high lies in Avata- nak Strait, about 1 mile off the north side of the island. There is no secure anchorage. Rootok Strait, separating Avatanak Island from Rootok Island, is a httle over 1 mile wide in its narrowest part, but the clear channel is reduced by rocks on both sides to a width of about 14 niile; there are no known hidden dangers when passing through in mid-channel. The directions following are considered safe and lead in mid-channel. Approaching from southeastward, steer for the north end of Rootok Island on a 299° true (W. by N. mag.) course, leaving the east end of the island % mile on the port hand. When the west end of Avatanak Island bears abeam, steer about 332° true (NW. mag.) and pass in mid-channel between the bare rocks off the west end of Avatanak Island and those close to the north end of Rootok Island. ROOTOK ISLAND is the western island on the southeast side of Avatanak Strait, and lies 3 miles southeastward from the southern end of Akun Island. The island is 3 miles long and about 2 miles wide. There are three peaks on its southern side, the highest 1,760 feet, and the island terminates at the shore in cliffs. There is no secure anchorage. The southern ends of Tigalda, Avatanak, and Rootok islands are nearly in line, bearing 262° true (SW. hyW. % W. mag.). Avatanak Strait is a broad, clear channel separating Avatanak and Rootok islands from Akun Island, and leads from Unimak Pass for Akutan Pass. The strait has a general 245° true {S W. yi W. mag.) direction, and is 3 miles wide at its narrowest part. There are no known hidden dangers, and its navigation is not difficult in clear weather. • Current observations have not been made in Avatanak Strait. The flood current sets northeastward and the ebb southwestward through the strait. OBNEBAIi DESCBIPTION. J. 7 AKUN ISLAND lies 23 miles southwestward of Unimak Island, and is separated from Akutan Island by Akutan Bay and Akun Strait, and from Rootok and Avatanak islands by Avatanak Strait. It is about 12 miles long, but is very irregular in shape, being nearly divided by Akun Cove and Lost Harbor and a low depression joining them. The island is high and rugged, particularly its northern part, which reaches an elevation of about 2,500 feet in an extinct crater at its northwest end on the north side of Lost Harbor. The northern end of Akun Island is two massive heads about 4 miles apart, separated by Little Bay with a moderately low divide at its head, the whole fonning a large valley. Both heads have precipitous sea faces about 1,200 feet high, and have grassy saddles southward of them. Akun Head, the western headland, has a long lozenge- shaped horizontal strata with a red iron-rust color in the face of the cliff. Tanginak Islet, about 80 feet high with steep sides, lies 2}i miles off the east end of Akun Island, and there is a deep passage between if the east end of Akun Island be given a berth of over ^s mile. Tangik and Poa islands (about 200 feet high) lie in Avatanak Strait about ^ mile off the southern side of Akun Island. Two low islets surrounded by kelp lie on the eastern side at the northern end of Akim Strait close to the southwest end of Akun Island. There are a number of anchor- ages around the island with offshore winds. The best are: Seredka Bay, on the south side of Akun Island 2 miles westward of Round Head, the southeast point of the i.sland, and 1^ miles northward of Tangik Island, is about 1 mile wide and the same long, open southeast, and has two bights at the head. The bay is easy of access, and a safe and roomy anchorage except with southeast winds. There is considerable kelp on the southwest side of the bay. The Pathfinder anchored in the bight at the north end of the bay, with the east end of Tangik I.sland shut out by the south point at the entrance to the bay. Akun Cove is the broad indentation in the northeast side of Akun Island; it affords anchorage at its head except with winds from southeast to northwest, but heavy williwaws are experienced with offshore winds. The bay is .5 miles wide at its entrance and about 4 miles long. At its head, where the bay is 2)/^ miles wide, there are two large bights. Anchorage niay be made in either of the bights, about }4 mile from shore, in 10 to 15 fathoms. There are no known dangers in the bay except close to shore. There are fre-sh-water lakes at the heads of the bights, about 10 feet above liigh water, and there is a verj' low depression from the head of the northern bight to Lost Harbor. Lost Harbor has its entrance from Akutan Bay on the western side of Akun Island about 6 miles so\ithward of Akun Head. It is a good harbor, sheltered from all exc-ept southwest winds, and is large and easily entered. The harbor has a uniform width of 1 J^ miles and is nearly 3 miles long in a 63° true (NE. mag.) direction. Approaching Lost Harbor from westward pass about 1 mile northward of North Head (of Akutan Island) and make good a 102° true (E. 3^ N. mag.) course for 10 miles, which should lead to the middle of the entrance. Then steer about 57° true (NE. V'2 N. mag.), following a mid-channel course into the harbor, and taking care to give the northwest shore of the harbor a berth of ^ mile or more until near the head. When about % mile from the head of the harbor haul up to about 332° true (NW. mag.) and anchor about }4 mile from shore at the northwest end of the head of the harbor, in about 10 fathoms. Approaching from northward around Akun Head, follow the western shore of Akun Island at a distance of about 1 mile until in the middle of the entrance to Lost Harbor, and then proceed as directed in the preceding paragraph to the anchorage. AKUTAN ISLAND, the largest between Unalaska Island and LTnimak Pass, is about 15 miles long in a general east and west direction, and its greatest width in a north and south direction is about 10 miles. The island lies about 9 miles northeastward from Unalaska Island and is separated from the latter by Akutan and Unalga passes. Akutan Peak, 4,100 feet high, is a little west of the middle 60835—09 2 18 .ikctjlk eulxhl of tfce rlwdl aad its tiAtd fc pooit. On the Mttl»*st ade tbe ^and is siq«ntcd*fitQin Akim ^bnd bjr Atartii Bslt mad Akom Stzatt; tfar kitw i$ about ^^ male vide, but tKe ledgas on bodi adn lenTv a chMinei dbont 600 ranis vide at its nanowst pan vith a depth of about 7 f a t lii — I Iben am strong tide iqis ra dub diBuuid, and it is not rMvaompttde^ As far as atr no dangtexs over H lade tmm the sh«e of the i^and. exoq>t the nef on its KoKfh Hend b a 14^ boU dSS, vith a lar«e. deep, grassr raUej in the othavise hij^ on its east mim. Abont 3 nui e s sonthwestvard of the c^ie thne is a nanov, grassj rhidk aepantcB the ia^ ndge of Xorth Head from anoAo- h^ rid|!e: the wstem side 'uc die xmBier is a ItuSL Lsm FoiBjfc, 6 mSts soothvcstvard of X<«rth Head, fe moderated- low Ura be^ At Ae end of dke point is a flat ro^ havi^ the same he^t as the point and ^^thr detncbad from it. A reef, baie at lov vnto- and eomrd vith ke^. extends T^ mile from the v«st«TO ade of Akntan Island at a point 2>4 miieB saathvard of Lara Point. Oi^e Mosgan, the soothveat end of the i^and and oa the north side of Akntan Pass, is steep and hi^ Three pinnade tocks, 4 to S feet hi^ he in the pass 600 yards off the cape, and odier bare rodcs extend the same distance <^ its southeast side. The ca^ should be given a bodi of OTcr H niile. l i ntUMf Fabtt Caee riev), the sooth end of Akntan Island, is {Hominoit, sleep, and bi^ and is smnmnded br bare roc^ close-to. Thete are a number of places vhere Tessefe mar anchco- vith an (rfEsfawe vind: bat thej are open seawd and are not recommended. Akntan Harbc»- is the only secure anchoiage. Vulcnn Cove, about 3 miles nwtheastvmrd ot Battoy Pont, affords shelter in northoiy v«adier, but is open to dte Padfie swelL Hotepodngs Bay b a vide indentation in Akutan Island open noint b a grassy hummock over 100 feet high and b connected with the mainland of Akutan Island by a low. grassy spit). Steer so as to leave thb point over J-4 mile on the starboard hand, round it at thb distance, and then steer 251° true (SW. ^ W. mag.) into the harbor, giving the shores a berth of over 300 yards. Anchor off the village, taking care to allow the vessel swinging room. Pasting north of North Head (of Akutan Island) leave it about 1 mile on the starboard hand and steer about 107° true (E. mag.l, giving the shore of the bland a berth of 1 mile on the star- board hand. Having stood on thb course about 6 miles and when Ridge Point bears on the starboard beam dbtant 2 miles, steer 150° true (SB. % B. mag.) about 4 miles; the north AKTrtAS IBLASV. 19 p" low land extends northward across the island. The shore of the eastern end of the island is generally a low sand beach with outlying rocks; the mountain ridges begin 3^ to 2 miles back from the beach. Northeast Cape is low tundra land, with numerous fresh-water lakes, 2 miles wide to the foot of a mountain which rises abruptly and has a peak 1,435 feet high which can be seen on a clear day a distance of 35 miles or more. At 34 and ^n mile from the end of the cape are two hummocks 94 and 280 feet high, respectively; the lower hummock is in latitude 63° 17' 45" N., longitude 168° 41' 40" W., as determined by the Coast and Geodetic Survey in 1902. Although the bottom is irregular off the point of the cape, no break was noticed while passing it in rough weather. The north shore of St. Lawrence Island, for a distance of 10 miles westward of Northeast Cape, is a low sand beach and grassy tundra with numerous fresh- water lakes. Anchorage vdW\ shelter from southerly or southeasterly winds can be had along this shore about 2 miles from the beach in 8 to 9 fathoms of water; the holding ground is not good, the bottom being gravel. At a point on the north shore 6 miles westward of Northeast Cape, breakers extend 1 mile offshore. From Northeast Cape the east coast of St. Lawrence Island has a general 192° true {S. y^ E. mag.) direction for 4 miles to a point where a spur, 450 feet high, from the higher hills reaches to within Vo. mile of the beach. In this stretch the 6-fathom curve is 5i to 1 mile offshore. A current observation made 2 miles southward of Northeast Cape and 1 mile ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND. 48 offshore gave a maximum velocity of 1.4 miles on both flood and ebb; the flood sets northward and ebb southward alongshore. The east coast of the island then trends 209° true (8. by W. mag.) for 4 miles, and then curves westward and northward in a distance of 5 miles until it has a 322° true (NW. by W. mag.) direction, forming East Cape. The coast of tliis entire section is a low, narrow strip with a large lagoon back of it. East Cape is so rounding that there is no particular point to which the name applies. The mountains are about 2 miles back of it and are about 900 feet high. Punuk Islands, lying 4 to 5 miles 164° true (SE. by S. mag.) from East Cape, is a group of three small islands 1}4 miles long; the northeastern end of the group lies about 13J^ miles 192° true (S. 3^ E. mag.) from Northeast Cape. The northernmost and largest island has two marked rocky hummocks, the higher having an elevation of 100 to 150 feet; on the south- western end of the island are the remains of a native village. The southernmost island is an irregular mass of rocks, the liighest point about 75 feet above water. Between these islands is a low, sandy islet, which is separated from the other two by narrow channels completely obstructed by ledges over which the sea breaks. The shores of all the islands are foul, and a ledge extends southward from the southernmost island; the Patterson passed 2 miles south- ward of the islands in a least depth of 8 fathoms. Vessels should approach these islands with caution. A heavy break was observed in the channel between Punuk Islands and East Cape, and vessels should not attempt to pass through. From eastward the islands can be approached as close as 2 miles. A current observation made 2% miles 220° true (SS W. mag.) from Punuk Islands showed the flood current setting about 24° true (N. Y^ E. mag.) with a maximum velocity of 1.1 miles. Southeast Cape is about 5 miles across on its southern face; the eastern point of the cape slopes gradually to the water for a distance of }4 ^i'^ from the high land, and a reef extends about K mile southeast from the point. The western point is lower and slopes more gradually to the water for a distance of 3 miles from the high land, and a reef makes off from the point in a southerly direction for a distance of 2 to 3 miles. The bight between these points is very foul and should be avoided. Cape Kialegak, about 5 miles northward of Southeast Cape, is a long sand spit strewn with rocks, extending in a northeasterly direction from the high land of the coast, and forms what is in appearance a good anchorage in southerly winds. There are breakers about ^ mile 355° true (NNW. mag.) from the end of the cape, and there may be others inside; a reef extends southward from the south side of the sand spit for a distance of about 1 mile. The remains of a native village on the sand spit serve to identify the locality. The deep bight westward of East Cape is Uttle known; vessels have anchored well up toward the head of this bight. Vessels entering should give the points a good berth and exercise caution. Cape Chibukak, probably 600 feet high, is a steep, black bluff, flat on top. There is a wide sand beach west of the bluff, on which is a native village called Gambell. This native village, and the one on Southwest Cape, are the only inhabited parts of the island. The water is deep close-to Cape Chibukak, and anchorage may be made on either side of the point of the sand beach off the native village, }4 mile from shore, in about 7 fathoms, hard bottom. The western end of the island, south of Cape Chibukak, is rolling land. From West Cape around to the bay east of Southwest Cape the land is mountainous, and abrupt close to the coast, being highest at Southwest Cape. Between the high land east of Southwest Cape and Cape Chitnak the land is low. A reef makes oft" 1 mile in a 220° true {SS W. mag.) direction from Cape Chitnak and is bare at low water. The submerged part of this reef extends about 2 miles in a general 175° true {SSE. mag.) direction from the bare part. This reef is dangerous, as the water shoals abruptly when approaching the cape. The rest of the island is generally high and rolling. There are some sunken rocks in the bight westward of Southeast Cape, and also some detached rocks showing off the north shore near Cape Kukuliak and North Cape. 44 ST. LA WHENCE ISLAND. It is probable that with care an anchorage may be found almost anywhere around the island, but the shores must be approached with caution. Tides. — The mean rise and fall at St. Lawrence Island is probably about 1 foot at the east end, increasing to perhaps 2 feet at the west end. The time of high water probably changes rapidly from point to point, but no tidal observations have yet been made. NORTON SOUND. Norton Sound is at present the most important arm of Bering Sea. Some supphes for the Yukon River by way of St. Michael pass through it. The north shore is also important because of the mining operations now conducted there. The south side of the entrance to the sound is occupied by the extensive Yukon Flats, and should be avoided by deep-draft vessels. The rest of the sound generally has soundings of 8 to 12 fathoms, the greater depths being near the north side. Off Cape Nome and Cape Darby there are spots with depths of 15 to 19 fathoms. The bottom of the sound is very even, the depths decreasing to the shore with marked regularity, and the lead will indicate the approach to dangers, and should be kept going constantly. There is driftwood on all the shores of the soimd. Fog. — The remarks on fog, page 27, apply also to the region west of Cape Nome, but not to Norton Sound east of it. On entering the sound with thick weather in Bering Sea, the fog will almost always thin out and gradually clear as the vessel proceeds up the sound. At St. Michael fogs are rare. Mirage. — In the vicinity of St. Michael and Stuart islands and the coast southward mirage often distorts the appearance of the land, small objects being sometimes greatly magnified. Stuart Island lies northwest of St. Michael Island, from which it is separated by Stephens Pass, about % mile wide in its narrowest part. Stuart Mountain, 483 feet high east of the center, is the liighest point. The rest of the island is low and rolling, with some small, scattered peaks. The shore of the island is very irregular. From North Point to Observation Point and around through Stephens Pass is a line of conspicuous bluffs about 170 feet high; the rest of the coast is much lower. From Observation Point to the west point of the island the north shore is free from outlying dangers; 5 fathoms can be carried 1 mile from the beach. Off the west point, some detached rocks extend about 300 yards. On the east face of the island well toward the southeast point a shoal makes out about 3 miles. St. Michael Island is separated from the mainland by a narrow, crooked, tidal slough, called St. Michael Canal. The island is generally low, and has two conspicuous elevations: St. Michael Hill, near the center, 472 feet high; and Stephens Hill, a sharp, conical hill over- looking Stephens Pass. 'There is a fixed white light on Cape Stephens, the western point of St. Michael Island. A reef extends IJ^ miles off Eock Point, the point 51° true (NNE. Y^ E. mag.) from St. Michael Hill, and is marked on its northeast edge by a buoy (spar, red. No. 2) in 20 feet of water. Whale Island, lying close off the east end of St. Michael Island, is about }4 mile long east and west, 118 feet high, and on approaching the harbor its east end is seen as a vertical bluff. It is marked on its eastern end by a fixed white light. The passage between this and St. Michael Island is blocked by rocks, bare at low water. Eastward and northward of the island the water deepens rapidly. Beulah Island, about }4 ^lile northwest from Whale Island, is about 50 feet liigh, small and rounded. It has bold water off its northeast side. Between this and Whale Island the water is shoal. >! ST. MICHAEL. St. Michael, on the east point of St. Michael Island, is the point of transfer from deep- water vessels to the Yukon River steamboats of the trading and transportation companies doing business on the Yukon and its tributaries. This trade during the open season of about four months is extensive. Some of the companies have small wharves for the light-draft river NORTON SOUND. 45 vessels, and extensive warehouses on St. Michael Island and opposite on the mainland. Sea- going vessels discharge their cargoes by lighters. There is a wireless telegraph station, and communication by telegraph with the interior of Alaska and Seattle. Supplies. — Coal can generally be had for steamers; water and general supplies can be had at St. Michael. Repairs.— The facilities for repairs above water and to woodwork are good. Several blacksmith shops and small macliine shops can handle ironwork and minor repairs to machinery. Anchorage.— There is no harbor for seagoing vessels; the anchorage is an open road- stead exposed to winds from northwest through north to east. The larger vessels anchor in the offing between St. Michael Bay and Egg Island, and in heavy northerly gales shift their anchorage to get a lee under Egg Island or go to sea. Anchorage is found about 3^ mile south- eastward of Whale Island in 3 J^ to 4 fathoms, bottom dark-blue mud and good holding ground. Light-draft vessels and river steamers can find shelter from northerly and westerly winds by anchoring close in under the east side of the island, in 3 to 8 feet. The shores of St. Michael Bay are strewn with loose rocks, which are often frozen in the ice in winter and dropped as it goes out in the spring. Light-draft vessels, when anchoring in shoal water, should be careful not to anchor over any of these loose, scattered rocks. Egg Island. — This island has been used as a quarantine station. Vessels detained at quarantine anchored off the eastern shore, where good water is found. The water off the western shore is deeper, 6 fathoms being found close inshore. The island is so small that it does not afford much protection in heavy weather, but it is the only lee to be had in northerly gales. Tides. — See Coast and Geodetic Survey tide tables, in which the tides are predicted for every day of the current year during the season of navigation. Ice. — The records of the Alaska Commercial Company from 1880 to 1899, both inclusive, show that ice begins to move out of St. Michael Bay between ISIay 31 and June 25; the former being the earliest date recorded, and the latter the latest. The earliest date recorded for ice forming in St. Michael Bay is October 6, and the latest November 10; during the past ten years, however, the dates when ice formed ranged from October 18 to November 10. (See also page 26.) ST. MICHAEL BAY TO CAPE DARBY. The coast is generally low and rock strewn and the depths, when approaching it, shoal gradually from 6 fathoms toward the beach; a depth of 3 fathoms can be taken as close as ^ mile except in a few places. There are no outlying dangers, but a reef makes off about 3^ mile from the shore 2 miles southward of Black Point, the pofnt about 36 miles northeastward from St. Michael. Tolstoi Point and its vicinity are high and rocky, and from there to Unalak- lik River the shore is low. A shoal extends about l}4 miles off the mouth of the Unalaklik River; there is no channel through tliis shoal into the river except for light-draft craft. Good anchorage, in southerly winds, is found in the bight eastward of Kiktaguk, about 15 miles eastward of St. Michael. There are a number of native villages on this coast, and a depot for supplies 'at Unalaklik. Besboro Island is 600 feet high and very prominent; on a clear day it can be seen from St. Michael; it affords a poor lee, as the wind draws all around the island. A shoal, with depths of 4 to 4% fathoms, makes off 2 miles in a northeasterly direction from the north end of the island; the western side of the island is bold-to, and the eastern side of the island can be approached as close as }^ mile, with a depth of over 5 fathoms. j Cape Denbigh is a moderately Wgh, rounded hill, joined to the mainland by a low, narrow neck. The head of the bight, eastward of the cape, is shoal, but in approaching the water shoals gradually. A good anchorage in northeasterly winds can be had eastward of the cape- in depths suitable to the draft of the vessel. The south end of the cape is bold-to, and its western side, 2)^ miles northward of the point, can be approached close-to in 4 fathoms of water. The water shoals rapidly inside a depth of 4 fathoms when approaching the shore. 46 NORTON SOUND. Norton Bay is generally shoal. About midway between Point Dexter and Bald Head there is a depth of about 6 fathoms, and from this depth the water shoals gradually, as the shores are approached in any direction inside of Bald Head. In some places the 6-foot curve is 5 miles or more from the beach. The north shore of the bay for a distance of 15 miles west- ward of Bald Head is comparatively low, and the water is shoal for some distance from the shore. From a point 15 miles west of Bald Head to Cape Darby the land is high and wooded along the coast; a few native villages are located on this stretch. For a distance of 20 miles northeastward from Cape Darby a depth of 4 fathoms can be taken 3^ mile from the shore, and in some places much closer. The water shoals gradually on approaching the coast, but the south and east sides of Cape Darby have deep water close-to. During strong northerly winds the water is lowered considerable in Norton Bay. Cape Darby is a high, rounded mountain, which terminates at the water in steep, rocky bluffs. Rocky Point is a high, bold promontory with irregular rocky cliffs. GOLOFNIN BAY, the entrance to which lies between Cape Darby and Kocky Point, with a width of 10 mil^s, extends in a general northerly direction for 12 miles to the entrance to Golofnin Sound. The east shore is liigh and bold, with occasional sand and gravel beaches. Carolyn Island, low and rocky, lies 34 mile off the east shore, about 8 miles north of Cape Darby. The west shore for about 3 miles north of Rocky Point is high and bold, but beyond this is a low sand beach, with a prominent point about 5 miles north of Rocky Point. At the head of the bay on the west side, the entrance to Golofnin Sound lies between a sand spit projecting from the eastern shore, and a low sand island extending northward from the west shore and connected with it at low water. Deep water can be carried close under Cape Darby and Rocky Point. Eastward of Rocky Point is an extensive middle ground on which the least depth found was 3^ fathoms; on its east edge it rises abruptly from 6 and 7 fathoms. With the exception of this middle ground the bay is free from dangers south of the low point on the west shore, the deepest water being on the east side, and ranging from 1 1 fathoms close under Cape Darby to 4 fathoms 3^ mile northwest of Carolyn Island. In the south part of the bay the high land may be approached closely, but off the low land the 3-fathom curve is in places nearly 1 mile offshore. Anchorage. — ^A little westward of the* southern sand spit, in the entrance to Golofnin Sound, anchorage may be had in 6 to 7 fathoms, with protection from all winds. For vessels whose draft prevents the use of this anchorage, the best is off the point on the west side of the bay in about 4 fathoms. This is unsafe in southerly weather, but is the most convenient for communicating with the head of the bay. By shifting anchorage from one side to the other in Golofnin Bay, good shelter is found from easterly or southwest or westerly winds. Golofnin Sound. — In the north part of the bay an extensive shoal, with 4 to 8 feet, makes out in a northeast direction from the west shore to within % mile of the east shore, its ex- tremity lying about 2 miles 93° true {ENE. % E. mag.) from the north point of the low sand island on the south side of the entrance to Golofnin Sound. The channel leading to the-entrance to Golofnin Sound lies on the eastern side of the bay, passing around the east end of the shoal and following the eastern shore at a distance of ^ to ^ mile, with an average width of 800 yards. The least depth in the channel is 13 feet at low water, but 15 feet has been taken in at high water. The rise and fall of the tide (diurnal) is about 3 feet, but this is influenced by the prevailing winds, which have a tendency to bank up the water in heavy southerly weather, and to lower it with northerly and northeasterly winds. Cheenik (Golovin post office), on the north spit at the entrance to Golofnin Sound, is a distributing point for the mining district of the Fish River country. Golofnin vSound is very shallow and is navigable for small steamers of 3}^ feet draft which ply from Golofnin to the mouth of the Fish River, which empties into the head of the sound. The channel through the sound is narrow and tortuous. NORTON SOUND. 47 ROCBCY POINT TO CAPE NOME. For about 22 miles, from Rocky Point to Topkok Head, the land is high and bold, in many places rising abruptly. Beyond this to Cape Nome the coast is low with high land farther back. Immediately behind this low land is a large shoal lagoon with two small entrances, the west one called Port Safety. Between Rocky Point and Cape Nome the water is deep, the l)ottom regular, and by giving the shore a berth of 1 mile a depth of 6 fathoms, or more, will be found. Topkok Head is 22 miles westward of Rocky Point, and is the first high land close to the coast eastward of Cape Nome. Its seaward face rises al)ruptly from the water 586 feet and is a well-known and conspicuous landmark. A yellow bluff, 572 feet high, on the east side of Bluff post office, about 6 miles eastward of Topkok Head, is conspicuous, but not as much so as Topkok Head. Solomon is a post office at the mouth of Solomon River, 11 miles westward of Topkok Head and 17 miles eastward of Cape Nome. A railroad is under construction up Solomon River. From a survey made in 1902 there was a depth of 3 feet on the bar at the entrance and inside Solomon River, but local knowledge is necessary to keep in the best water. Port Safety is a small anchorage for vessels of less than 7 feet draft; it is about 8 miles eastward of Cape Nome. The channel is narrow and has a depth of 7 feet. Small vessels can anchor in the narrow sloughs which lead between the flats inside the entrance. DIRECTIONS FROM UNIMAK PASS OR FROM CAPE KALEKTA TO NORTON SOUND OR PORT CLARENCE. For vessels of any draft. — If no observations can be obtained on account of thick weather, the lead must be depended upon and used constantly, as the currents are liable to set a vessel off her course. To avoid Nunivak Island, and also to sight the island in clear weather so as to check the vessel's position, the course should be laid to pass about 18 miles westward of the island in latitude 60°. 14' N. and longitude 168° 04' W. I. From a position 5 miles 25 1^' true (SW. by W. mag.) from Cape Sarichef lighthouse, on the eastern side at the northern end of Uniraak Pass, a 344° true (NW. by N. mag.) course made good for 353 miles shoidd lead to the above latitude and longitude, and Cape Mohican should bear about 95° true {ENE. % E. mag.) and be distant 18 miles. II. Or, from a position S miles westward from Cape KaleTcta a 352° true (NNW. J^ W. mag.) course made good for 376 miles should' lead to the above position with Cape Mohican bearing 95° tme {ENE. % E. mag.) distant 18 miles. On the above courses little can be said of the currents except that with a strong wind » from any direction a current is likely to set with it. A slight northerly set will sometimes be experienced. Thick weather is the rule in Bering Sea during the season of navigation and care should be observed when in the vicinity of Nunivak Island (see also the description of Nunivak Island, page 38). III. From Cape Mohican bearing 95° true {ENE. J/g E. mag.) distant 18 miles, a 4° tme (N. by W. 34 W. mag.) course made good for 1663^ miles will lead to a position in latitude 63° N. and longitude 167° 40' W.; the highest peak (1,462 feet) 3 miles back of Northeast Cape, St. Lawrence Island, should then bear 300° true {W. by N. mag.), distant 35 miles, and will be visible in clear weather at this distance. From this position: IV. Iflo^ind to St. Michael. — Make good a 53° true (NE. by N. mag.) course for 76}4 miles to a position in latitude 63° 46' N. and longitude 165° 24' W. On this course the depth should be 1 2 fathoms or more until the vessel has arrived at the above position. From the above latitude and longitude a 93° true (ENE. ^ E. mag.) course made good for 81 miles will lead to a position 3 miles northward of Stuart Island with Stuart Mountain bearing 201° true {S. mag.). From this position make good a 126° true (ESE. ^ E. mag.) course for 143^ miles, giving the shore of St. Michael Island a berth of 3 miles. Whale Island light should then bear on the 48 BEBING SEA — DIBECTIONS. starboard beam distant 33^ miles, and deep draft vessels can anchor in this position in about 5^ fathoms. (See also "Anchorage," page 45.) On the 93° true (ENE. Yi E. mag.) course the lead should be frequently used, and if the water is shoaled to less than 8 fathoms while westward of Stuart Island it is pretty safe to assume that the vessel is southward of her course. Thick weather is not as prevalent in Norton Sound as in Bering Sea, and it is but seldom that Stuart Island and the mountains south- eastward of St. Michael can not be seen and used as landmarks. ^ s; "^^.i-'^^' V. Jj hound to Oolofnin Bay. — Follow the directions in section IV, and when the vessel is in latitude 63° 46' N. and longitude 165° 24' W. make good a 59° true (NE. % N. mag.) course for 71 miles, which should lead to a position about 2 miles southeastward of Rocky Point (the high point on the western side of the entrance to the bay). VI. If bound to Nome. — From a position in latitude 63° N. and longitude 167° 40' W. make good a 33° true (N. by E. J^ E. mag.) course for 100 miles, which should lead to a position about 8 miles from the beach abreast the town. Anchor according to draft, as indicated in the description of Nome on page 51. VII. If hound to Port Ohrence. — From a position in latitude 63° N. and longitude 167° 40' W. a 0° true (N. by W. -li W. mag.) course made good for 138 miles will lead to a position about 8 miles from Cape York. Then follow the directions under heading, "Port Clarence." On the 0° true (N. by W. 5^ W. mag.) course, King Island should be left about 8 miles on the port hand when the vessel has been standing 119 miles on this coarse. A northerly or northwesterly set of the current may be found after the vessel has stood about 90 miles on the course. In clear weather the mountains back of Cape York should be sighted after King Island has been passed and the cape should be made on the starboard bow. The depths until abreast King Island range from 15 to 20 fathoms; but northward of King Island the soundings are irregular and care should be taken not to be set eastward toward the shoals which lie off the coast between Cape Douglas and Point Spencer (see page 53). GENERAL DIRECTIONS FROM ISANOTSKI STRAIT TO ST. MICHAEL. The following remarks are intended to apply only to small craft and river steamboats. After passing out of Isanotski Strait, clear of the outlying breakers, the course is shaped for the east side of Amak Island. Shelter can be found on the south, southeast, and east sides of the island. Some of the Moran fleet found shelter in 1898 on the east side in about 6 fathoms. Capt. J. L. Fisher states that he crossed pretty close inshore over the indicated shoal off the southeast end, with a least depth of 7 fathoms. He also states that the outlying rocks and reefs off the north end of the island appeared very nasty and dangerous. Leaving Amak Island, the next course is laid for Cape Newenham. Shelter can be obtained it is believed, on either side, according to the wind. On July 15, 1898, the bight northeast from Cape Newenham was found packed full of ice. From Cape Newenham the course is laid for Nunivak Island. If heavy northerly or north- easterly winds are encountered before the island is reached, shelter is sought in the depth of the bight on the south side. Weather conditions being good, it is only necessary to touch at this island if needing water. The anchorage on the north side, about 12 mil^s eastward of Cape Etolin, is considered the best. (See Nunivak Island, page 39.) From the northern end of Nunivak Island the customarj^ course is to cross over diagonally to a little north of Hazen Bay, and then coast along just outside the shoals, in 3 to 5 fathoms of water, until Cape Romanzof is reached. If the weather is unpropitious or water is required, an anchorage in Scammon Bay is made close inshore on the south side, in a bight where a stream empties. After leaving Scammon Bay, by giving the spit on the north side of the entrance a good berth, the remaining distance to St. Michael is made by skirting along on the outer portion of the Yukon Flats, in 2 to 5 fathoms, where the courses are exclusively guided by the use of the lead. On this crooked stretch, after the mountains of Cape Romanzof and the Kusilvak Moun- tains disappear, no land will be visible until the high peaks on the mainland south from Stuart ALASKA.. 49 Island are sighted; a little later the summits of Stuart and St. Michael islands become visible. After Stuart and St. Michael islands become defined, the course is shaped to go through the pass between them, and then skirt aroimd the north side of St. Michael Island to St. Mchael. In the summer, from all that can be learned, northerly and easterly winds prevail a large portion of the time between Cape Newenham and Cape JRomanzof. The tidal currents in Etolin Strait are strong and at times cause heavy tide rips. COAST FROM ST. MICHAEL TO APOON PASS. St. Michael being the end of deep-water navigation, all the Yukon traffic beyond this point has to be conducted with vessels drawing 5 feet or less. The larger river steamboats leaving St. Michael Bay go around the riorth side of St. Michael Island and through Stephens Pass, between St. Michael and Stuart islands. The}- give the reef off Rock Point, on the north side of St. Michael Island, a wide berth, and after passing between the islands a straight course is made slightly westward of Point Romanof. When the summit of Point Romanof is abeam, distant about IJ^ miles, the direction is changed and a course is made for the range beacons for entering the Apoon Pass. The most dangerous portion of the passage is the 14 miles around the north end of St. Michael Island, which is exposed to the deep-water swell from the north. This can be avoided by small craft by going through St. Michael Canal. St. Michael Canal se]>arates St. Michael Island from the mainland, and is a narrow, crooked, tidal slough, which forks and comes together again. The distance through by way of the north fork is 18 miles, and by the south one 20 miles. The southern and longer one is the wider, and for that reason is the one generally used. There is a sufficient depth- in the canal for ordinary' river steamboats, but its northern entrance, wliich has some scattered rocks in it, is too shoal to enter at low tide. The southern entrance has about 3 feet on its bar at mean low tide. Thus far, on account of its narrowness and sharp curves, it has only been used by the smaller class of steamboats. From Stephens Pass to Apoon Pass is 42 miles along an open coast, but owing to the pro- tection from heav}' seas offered by the flats that extend seaward, it is safe in summer months for the flat-bottomed river steamboats that have to traverse it. With the exception of the promontory of Point Romanof, the immediate coast is low and flat all the way from St. Michael Island to and including the Apoon entrance. The promontory of Point Romanof, 340 feet high, stands well out about 12 miles westward from the high hills of the coast range. After clearing Stephens Pass it appears in clear weather like an island in the sea. Coming north from the Apoon entrance after passing Point Romanof, Crater, St. Michael, and Stuart mountains appear above the horizon, and afford excellent marks. In moderate weather the ocean swell is not felt between Stephens Pass and the Apoon entrance; but in heav^' weather and westerly weather, which is more likely to occur during the latter part of the season, there is a choppy sea which is heavier off Point Romanof than elsewhere. In general, after rounding the north side of St. Michael Island, this passage is safe for river steamers in the summer season. During the latter part of the season, however, high winds become more frequent, and the boats are obliged to watch their opportunities. Anchorages. — River steamboats anchor on the flats or in the channel, wherever exigency demands. Good shelter can be had in all but southwesterty weather in the cove on the south side of Cape Stephens, in 6 to 9 feet of water. Stebbins, a large Eskimo settlement, is located on this cove. In the southern end of St. Michael Canal, in the southern branch, just above the junction, there is a good and safe anchorage in all kinds of weather. There is only about 3 feet at mean low tide on the outside bar, and it has to be crossed at high tide. About 10 miles southward of Canal Point is the Pikmiktalik River. In the mouth of the right-hand stream there is anchorage for medium-sized steamers. The bar to this stream has only about 2}4 feet on it at mean low tide. A shoal extends out from the south point at the" entrance. 6083&-09 4 50 ST. MICHAEL TO APOON PASS. The mouth of the Pastoliak River, about 2 miles from the outer end of the Apoon Pass, affords anchorage for steamboats under medium size. The Apoon Flats extend in front of the entrance, and it can only be entered at high tide. . APOON PASS. This is the most northern outlet of the Yukon River, and is about 55 miles, via Stephens Pass, from St. Michael. It is used exclusively by the steamboats trading up the Yukon and its tributaries. Apoon Pass is the extreme northeastern limit of the Yukon Delta. In common with the rest of this region, the country is low and flat, it being 1 to 2 feet above high-water mark. Down to within about 2 miles of its mouth, the banks are generally covered with low willow and alder bushes 8 to 10 feet high. Near the mouth the land becomes more marshy, and a considerable area westward appears to be entirely an open marsh. The open country eastward is flat, and is niade up of marsh, ponds, and tundra. The only high ground in the general vicinity is Hogback, a rounded ridge about 300 feet high lying 5 miles east from the entrance. Some distance back from the coast, 12 to 18 miles, is seen the range of hills or mountains trending southwestward, which extend in that direction to where the Yukon makes its great bend to get around the end of this ridge. On these low, flat shores there are often remarkable mirage effects, tending greatly to magnifj' insignificant objects. Bar. — Off the mouth of Apoon Pass, and for some distance northwestward, the bottom is nearly flat^ having a depth of about 2 feet of water at low tide, and with little choice as to a channel. All but very light-draft vessels must time their departure from St. Michael «o as to cross these flats at high tide, or must wait for the tide. The distance between the Apoon mouth and the head of the delta is traversed by going up the Apoon Pass about 31 miles to where it branches off from the Kwikpak Pass, and then up the Kwikpak about 30 miles to the head of the delta, where it and the Kwikluak Pass sep- arate the Yukon into two principal mouths. The channels and banks are subject to rapid change both from erosion and deposit. Inhabitants.— The natives are mostly migratory, living at different places at different seasons. Their principal settlement, after leaving St. Michael Island, is on the Pastolik River. Kotlik, about 6 miles from the Apoon mouth, on the Kotlik River, has a store, Greek church, and a few dwellings. New Fort Hamilton is on the Kwikpak, 36 miles above KotUk, where there is a station of the North American Trading and Transportation Company. Pilots. — River steamboats in general carry Eskimo pilots, who may be hired at St. Michael and at various places on the river. They are, as a rule, familiar onlj' with a portion of the river, those from St. Michael usually going up as far as Andreafski. A number of native pilots live at the village near the mouth of the Pastolik River. Except with local knowledge a pilot is necessary in following the Apoon. The Eskimos are generally quick-witted and have a good eye for the water; but some who offer their services as pilots have little idea of the requirements ' of a steamer, being used, only to their own skin boats. Tides. — The tropic rise and fall in Apoon Pass is 4.8 feet. The tides at this entrance, as is the case with the shores of eastern Norton Sound, are greatlj" affected by the winds, northerly and easterly ones making low waters, and southerly and southwesterly ones making high waters. The wind effect may be sufficient to entirely obhterate the natural tide conditions. The effect of the tides reach above the head of the delta. At the head of the Kwikpak Pass the rise and fall is about 6 inches. Current. — The ordinary outflow of the Apoon is much less rapid than other mouths of the Yukon; but there is a tidal inflow and outflow, the velocity of which depends upon the amount of the rise and fall of the tide at any particular time. Ice. — In the fall thin ice begins to make in the river the latter part of September, and navigation in October is attended with danger of being frozen in. It is more than probable that the movement and clogging of the ice in the breaking up of the river in spring has much APOON PASS. 51 to do with the location and pecuharities of the channels and with clearing it perfectly from snags. Supplies. — -Immediately within the Apoon mouth the water is fresh, and that on the flats outside, close in, is nearly so, the degree of freshness depending upon the stage of the tide. Cord wood is cut and sold by the natives along the river from the mouth up. Small wood piles can be seen at intervals. That in the delta, and more particularly near the mouth, is of inferior quality, being cut from wet driftwood. COAST FROM CAPE NOME TO BERING STRAIT. Cape Nome is a bluff, about 300 feet high, apparently 1 mile broad, and rounded down to the water on either side, where there is low land at the shore, with higher land farther back. The water off this cape is quite deep. The tropic rise and fall of tides at Cape Nome is 2.1 feet. From Cape Nome to Cape Rodney the coast, except abreast of Sledge Island, is a com- paratively straight stretch of low sand beach with no projecting points and the higher land some distance back. Abreast of Sledge Island for a distance of several miles the hills slope down to the beach, giving this part of the coast the appearance of a point. The stretch of beach is broken by a number of small rivers where mining is in progress. The entrances to Nome, Snake, Penny, and Sinuk rivers have shifting bars, but there is generally water enough in the channels over these bars to permit steamers of 4 feet draft to enter. When approaching the coast, between Cape Nome and Sledge Island, the water shoals regularlj' and gradually until a depth of 5 fathoms is reached ; inside this depth the bottom is irregular, especially near the mouths of the rivers. A small shoal, with about 18 feet over it, lies about 9 miles westward of Cape Nome and 2^ miles offshore. Shoals extend a comparatively short distance off the mouth of Nome River. Nome is on the beach at the mouth of the Snake River, about 11 miles westward of Cape Nome. The general anchorage for deep-draft vessels is in 7 fathoms, about 1 mile from the beach abreast the town. Vessels of less draft anchor in 5 fathoms, a little closer to the beach, but it is not advisable to anchor in less. In strong southerly winds no landing can be made on the beach, and the anchorage is unsafe. Southerly winds raise the water and northerly winds lower.it. At Nome there is a relief station of the United States Public Health and Marine- Hospital Service for the treatment of seamen and a wireless telegraph station. There is a railroad up the Nome River to Lanes Landing on the Kuzitrin River, the latter emptying at the head of Imuriik Basin. Sledge Island, about 31 miles west of Cape Nome and 43^ miles offshore, is a rocky, flat-toj)ped island rising 604 feet above the water, and comparatively rounded in outline. There is a native village on a small, rocky slope on the east side; excepting this and a short sand spit making off from the northern end of the island, the shores are steep. The island may be safely approached from any direction, and anchorage may be had on all sides of it; the bottom is rocky in spots. A depth of 63^2 fathoms has been found about 3% miles offshore and about 73^ miles eastward from Sledge Island. During heavy weather tide rips, or breakers, have been observed about % mile eastward from the northern point of the island; a depth of 5 fathoms is reported near tliis locality. A depth of 3 fathoms, hard clay and boulders, is reported 7 miles westward of Sledge Island and 4 miles from the beach just eastward of Cape Rodney. From Cape Rodney to Cape Douglas the shore is a low sand beach, and the high land is farther inland from the beach than eastward of Cape Rodney. This coast is seldom approached close-to; the water is comparatively shallow, and dangerous shoals and ledges are foimd between Cape Douglas and Point Spencer. Vessels are cautioned to exercise care when approaching the shore while southward of Cape Douglas, and to give the shore between Cape^Douglas and Point Spencer a berth of^over^S^miles. 52 CAPE NOME TO BERING STRAIT. Currents. — A tidal current is perceptible from Cape Nome to Cape Rodney, but the strongest current sets northwestward; lying at anchor, vessels usually tail northwestward. In the vicinity of Sledge Island and between the island and the mainland the currents have considerable velocity; with strong southeast winds an average velocity of 2 miles and a maxi- mum velocity of 3H niiles per hour have been observed setting northwestward. Vessels, when in this vicinity, should give special attention to the currents. Above Cape Rodney there is no perceptible current southward or eastward; the general set is northward and westward. King Island is rugged and rocky, about 2 miles square, and 700 feet high. It has nearly perpendicular cliffs, deep water, and generally rocky bottom on all sides. There is a native village on the south side, the houses being built in the sides of the cliffs some distance above the water. Off the village, but close inshore, vessels may anchor in about 15 fathoms, muddy bottom, with good protection from northwest winds. In clear weather the island is an excellent landfall for vessels coming from southward and bound to Port Clarence. Cape York is a liigh, rocky, nearly vertical cliff, with numerous ravines, and a range of high, rugged mountains immediately back of it. The cliff is about 10 to 12 miles in extent. There is no distinct promontory, and no exact point along the cliff that can be defined as the cape. The water shoals slightly off the western end of the cliff, but nothing less than 6 fathoms will be found at a distance of 23^ miles from shore. A shoal with 2 fathoms is reported about IJ^ miles southeastward of the cape. A rock is reported about ^ mile from the shore southeastward of York village. Between Cape York and the high land of Cape Prince of Wales there is a bight, with comparatively low, rolling land back of it extending across the peninsula to the northern shore. The beach is low, and the water shoals gradually when approaching the shore. The eastern part of the bight is slightly shoaler than the western part, about 6 fathoms will be found 1 mile offshore; in the western part of the bight 8 fathoms will be found at the same distance from the beach. When standing westward alongshore, and when abreast of Cape Mountain, the water deepens suddenly to 20 fathoms. PORT CLARENCE is a good harbor, close to the strait, free from ocean swell, and is clear of ice about June 25 to 30. The bay is formed by a sand spit whicH extends from the mainland about 10 miles in a northerly direction to Point Spencer. The point is bold, with depths of 7 fathoms as close as % mile. The channel between Point Spencer and Point Jackson, on the north shore, is about 4 miles wide, clear of danger, and carries 7 to 9 fathoms. One and one-half miles south of Point Spencer a shoal makes into the bay from the sand spit, with depths of 2^ fathoms 1 mile off. The northern half of the bay has a general depth of 7 fathoms as close as 1 mile from the shore; the southern half of the bay shoals gradually from tliis depth toward the shore, and the extreme southern part is verj" shoal. The north shore is clear of danger, and can be approached as close as 3^ mile, the soundings decreasing regularly to the beach. Port Clarence connects at its northeast end with Grantley Harbor, which is 2 to 3 miles wide, about 8V^ miles long, and connects at its eastern end by a narrow, difficult channel with Imuruk Basin. The mouth of the harbor is formed by two sand spits which sUghtly overlap; on the southern spit is the settlement of Teller, a post office and distributing point for supplies for this section. The water westward of the sand spits is shoal, but there is a channel close to the north one which can be used by vessels drawing 12 feet or less, but which should be sounded out before attempting to enter. Inside the harbor the depths range fi"om 23^ to 3 fathoms, and it is probable that a draft of 12 feet can be taken through the channel to the basin. Vessels have gone into Grantley Harbor to heave down and repair on the north sand spit. Bering is a settlement on the eastern shore of Port Clarence about 5 miles south of Teller. Fresh water can be obtained in several places in Port Clarence, the best being from a stream on the eastjside near Bering. POBT CLAKENCB. 5t8 Anchorages. — There is anchorage in 5 fathoms, just inside Point Spencer; also in 6 fathoms 13^ miles off Teller, the village bearing 116° tnie {E. J^ S. mag.), exposed to southwest winds only. Fog. — ^In this vicinity fog is quite prevalent and very dense in summer. Tides. — The mean rise and fall in Port Clarence is 1 foot. Southwesterly winds increase and northeasterly winds decrease the height of tide. Current.^Outside of Point Spencer the current sets northwestward with a velocity of 1 to 2 rmles per hour. GENERAL, DIRECTIONS TO PORT CLARENCE. In approaching Port Clarence in thick or misty weather the long, low spit of sand and shingle which forms the west side of the bay is not seen until close-to. The best course from southward is to steer directly for Cape York, bearing in mind the set of the current north- westward, and after making Cape York follow along the coast eastward until the entrance to Port Clarence is made out, then steer for the anchorage just inside Point Spencer. Or, follow the north shore at a distance of about 2 miles vmtil abreast the settlement at Teller. Dangers. — A ledge with a reported least depth of 1^ fathoms lies nearly 5 miles offshore and about halfway between Cape Douglas and Point Spencer, and vessels should keep well outside of it. Extending about west-northwest from this ledge toward Cape York is a ridge with hard bottom and depths ranging from 4 fathoms near its so^ltheastem end to 5 fathoms in about the latitude of Point Spencer. Spots with depths of 6 fathoms over them will be found 15 miles offshore westward of Cape Douglas. It is recommended that vessels approach- ing Port Clarence give the lowland between Cape Douglas and Point Spencer a berth of not less than 5 miles before hauling in for the entrance. ABCTIC OCEAK. The remarks on the navigation of Bering Sea (page 25) apply generally to the Arctic Ocean as far as Point Barrow, except that the current and souncUngs in the Arctic are more uniform, and, with the exception of the shoals at Cape Prince of Wales, Hotham Inlet, Blossom Shoals, and Point FrankUn, there are no outlpng dangers, and the lead is an excellent guide in approaching the land. Another exception is that in the Arctic the question of ice must always be considered. The following remarks on the navigation, weather, and currents of the Arctic Ocean, by Capt. M. A. Healy, R. C. S., contained in the report of the cruise of the Revenue steamer Corwin in the Arctic Ocean, 1884, though relating to an extreme season, may be of interest to those navigating these waters : "In my previous experience in the Arctic I have never seen a season hke the past. From the time of first reaching the ice up to leaving the Arctic, dense fog has been almost constant. Currents that have hitherto been considered permanent in direction, if not in force, have become erratic, and others have entirely failed. The ice fell back before the sun's advance slowly and compactly. For three weeks after we reached the Diomede Islands it refused entrance into Kotzebue Sound, and three weeks later still it was hanging with discouraging tenacity around Point Hope. It was unsafe to anchor with any but a short scope, moving steam had to be kept, and constant vigilance exercised to prevent being dragged ashore by fields of ice moving in the rapid and changing currents. For weeks at a time it was impossible to take observations, dead reckoning was almost worthless, owing to the continual changes in force and direction of the currents, and the safety of the ship depended entirely on the constant use of the lead. Fortunately for those who are obhged to sail this frozen ocean, the depth of water is not so great but what bottom can alwa5's be obtained, and the proximity of land is indicated by regular shoaling, with but few exceptions. 54 ABCTIC OCEAN. Yet with this aid and the best charts that we have, several years' experience is necessary to enable the navigator to judge with any degree of precision the position of the ship. Anyone at all familiar with coasting knows how difficult it is to recognize land in a fog, where marks are well defined — high bluffs often appearing like low beaches and small rocks looming to gigantic size, while the general contour of the small portion of the shore visible may be taken for almost any land that one expects to make. How much more difficult must it be where the formation of the shore for miles differs but httle, as is the case in the Arctic. "Among the best landmarks that we have in these northern waters are the bird rookeries at King Island, the Diomedes, Cape Seppings, Cape Thompson, and Cape Lisburne. The distance between these rookeries enables one to form a very accurate idea of the one he is approaching, while the cries of birds congregated at them answer the purpose of a fog signal. With one or two exceptions, these are the only aids to navigation. "In the shallow waters of this ocean the effect of the wind on the currents is very marked. "Inside the Arctic circle snow has fallen all the past season, and it may almost be said that there has been no summer. As late as August 27 ice was within a few miles of Cape Sabine, and at the Seahorse Islands it was heavy and dangerous. The pack at this time was still southward of Point Barrow, and vessels could not go eastward of that place this season. During the latter part of our stay the weather was exceptionally severe. About the Fox Islands heavy storms were frequent and rain almost incessant. "The experience of many years in the Arctic has demonstrated the fact that no rules whatever can be given as to the time of, the breaking up of the ice. The severity of the winter, the time at which spring weather opens, and the begimiing of southerly winds that break up the ice, all have their influence in governing this time. Vessels have been able to enter St. Michael as early as May 21; tliis year we found ice to the southward of St. Matthew Island on June 2, and some days later still in the season vessels have been stopped by it between the Seal Islands and Nunivak. The southern limit of the ice is almost entirely depenilent on the severity of the winter. Heavy southerly winds and swell will break up the ice, and if followed by northerly winds it will open out and the waters become navigable. When once broken up, if the weather is mild, it will not cement again if nipping, and consequently will open more readily to light winds. Northeast winds tend to drive the ice off the American shore and westerly winds off the Siberian side. With these few exceptions little can be said of ice conditions. "In clear weather the ice blink indicates the presence of ice, and it may be seen a great distance, but in thick, foggy weather approach to the pack must be made with great caution. Its proximity is usually indicated by the slack, and when this once begins to be seen about the vessel it may be judged that a large body is not far distant. As the pack is neared one sees only ice as far as the eye can reach. It rises from 10 to 25 feet above the water. It is a well-known fact that the depth of water and the surrounding features of this ocean render the formation of large icebergs an impossibility. "When a pack is reached it usually becomes necessary to track along its edge to find a lead. Whoever is piloting the ship takes his place at the masthead, and with glass in hand seeks for a favorable opening. Oftentimes days are spent working up and down along the ice without clear water presenting itself, and when it does extreme caution must be used in entering the lead. It is here that the jiidgment and experience of the ice pilot becomes a necessity. The weather, currents, appearance of the ice, probable winds, and a dozen other things that would never enter the mind of a novice, are to be taken into consideration before the vessel's head is turned into the pack. Once it is determined to enter the lead vigilance must be doubled and every faculty kept on the alert. The vessel is conned from the mast- head, and, while directing how the helm must be put to keep clear of immediate danger, the pilot must be looking ahead for the clearest water, and watching ice, sea, and sky for change of currents and winds. If any signs of the closing-in of the lead are presented the vessel must be gotten out as soon as possible, for, if shut in and she escapes being crushed, she will go to the AT.ASKA. 55 northward in the drifting pack from 1 to 2 knots per hour, and it will become necessary to abandon her. If the lead followed up is between the ground ice and the pack and the wind comes on shore, a safe place can sometimes be found behind the ground ice. A vessel may be made fast to this ice with grapnels, or anchored to leeward of it, and lay with comparative safety. If anchored in a current, however, with drifting ice about her, the scope of chain must be short, and everything kept in readiness for getting under way at a moment's notice. If anchored in shoal water, it is desirable to get in the ice as far as possible to avoid the swell; but if the water is deep the ice should be avoided. Generally the presence of the ice tends to kill the swell, and it will be found much smoother inside the ice than out. "The bowhead whale keeps as far- to the northward as he can find spouting holes, and to take him the whalers are obliged to keep as close to the pack as possible. Usually they track along the Asiatic side in Bering Sea and Strait, and, as they reach the Arctic, cross over and work up the American shore to the northward and eastward. In Bering Sea there is very Uttle danger in entering the ice, as it is almost sure to open and offer a chance to escape before reaching the Arctic. With a knowledge of this fact, whalers sometimes enter the ice to the southward of the strait and endeavor to work through it if they have reason to beheve, from the sudden disappearance of the whale, that there is clear water to the northward. In the Arctic, however, the pack is carefully avoided, and it is only when conditions are most favor- able that attempts are made to follow up the leads. Point Barrow is approached with the greatest caution, as it is one of the most dangerous places in the Arctic. As has already been mentioned, by far the major portion of the vessels lost in the Arctic are wrecked in its vicinity." Ice. — Bering Strait is free of ice by the first week in July and sometimes earlier, but clear water does not extend very far northward, and it is seldom possible for vessels not fitted to encounter ice to reach Point Hope before July 10-15. Kotzebue Sound is usually open by July 15, at times a few days earlier, but it has been known to remain closed until the last of July. The running ice from Kotzebue Sound is encountered at Point Hope some time after the pack has moved northward. By July 15 the main pack has moved north of Cape Lisburne. Thus far the movement of the ice does not appear to depend to such a great extent on the winds, it is reasonably certain each year, and dates can be depended upon within a small limit of time; but north of Cape Lisburne the movement is generally slow, uncertain, varying greatly in point of time in different years, and seems to depend almost wholly on the winds for its further movement. Prevailing northeasterly winds move it away from the shore rapidly and early, while southwesterly or westerly winds hold it against the shore and make a late season. From Icy Cape north no, specific time can be set for the opening of navigation. Its varia- tions are from July 12 to the latter part of August, though an average date for the whaling vessels to reach Point Barrow is about August 1. Between these points in the early part of the season the ice is always dangerously near the shore, and southwesterly or westerly winds will bring it in. Later, the southern point of the pack is just off Seahorse Islands and generally remains there the rest of the season. From the Seahorse Islands to Point Barrow the pack is seldom far offshore, and from the latter point can almost always be seen. During the open season it is always liable to come in on these two points with a westerly wind. Beyond Icy Cape there is always danger to vessels, and strangers should be cautious and careful in going there. In the lead of open water between the pack and the shore the current is swift and nearly always carries drift ice, and .vessels rarely reach Point Barrow at any time without encountering some ice. The ice can not be forced, and vessels should not venture into small leads between the pack and shore ice. With a southwesterly or westerly wind, which brings the ice in, vessels seek protection east of Point Barrow when it is open, in Peard Bay close in as possible, and under the lee of heavy ground ice, which acts as a breakwater against the smaller cakes. In anchoring where there is drifting ice, vessels should use a short scope and be ready to get under way immediately. A comparatively small cake will some- times cause the loss of an anchor and chain. In the vicinity of Point Barrow sailing vessels 56 ARCTIC OCEAN. should not go offshore in water too deep to anchor, as in Ught winds or calms the current is likely to take them into the pack. Navigation east of Point Barrow is such that it should only be attempted by those having experience. As a rule, the pack does not come down on Point Barrow before the latter part of Sep- tember, but in 1897 it came down the first of September, and, in general, except for whaling vessels, whose officers are men of long experience in judging the ice, weather, etc., Septem- ber 1 is as late a date as vessels should remain in^hat vicinity. About this time, or a little later, young ice begins to make in the lagoons, along the shore, and around the old ice, though it is not likely to form in the open sea until the last of the month. The young ice makes stronger and spreads over the open sea with the advancing season. It is dangerous to vessels, and will very quickly cut through one not sheathed to withstand it. Ordinary vessels should be out of Kotzebue Sound by September 15 to 20, and out of the Arctic by October 1. The whaling vessels make it a rule to be ready to leave there about October 10, and though there may be times when they stay later, these are exceptions. At times there is a body of ice, which holds on the Siberian shore through the summer, that moves down past East Cape into the western side of Bering Strait, sometimes as early as the latter part of August, and makes that side of the strait difficult of navigation late in the season. Weather. — In summer the weather is usually light, with much fog and rain. The winds are variable, though mostly easterly and southerly. There are seldom gales in summer, but occasionally, sometimes with intervals of years, there come southwesterly gales, short-lived but very severe and disastrous, as there is Uttle protection from winds in that quarter. In the vicinity of the ice the weather is nearly always hght and foggy. Later in the season it grows more boisterous, gales are frequent and more generally from northward, and as the weather grows colder there is considerable snow. Currents. — From Bering Strait to Point Barrow there is a general current setting north- ward alongshore (stronger inshore), which, when not affected by winds or stopped by the ice, has a velocity of not less than 1 mile at any part of it. The current from the strait turns north- eastward and is joined north of Cape Krusenstem by that from Kotzebue Sound. From Esch- scholtz Bay a northerly current sets alongshore on the eastern side of Kotzebue Soimd, having a velocity of ^ to 1 mile at Cape Blossom. It continues past Cape Krusenstern, where it is increased by the flow from Hotham Inlet to a velocity of 1 to 2 miles, and northward of the cape joins the current from Bering Strait, where, in the latter part of July and August, its velocity is 13^ to 2 miles. It continues with the same velocity around Point Hope, then with a reduced velocity to Cape Lisburne and across to a short distance, south of Point Lay. After rounding Point Hope, and thence to Icy Cape, the current does not appear so strong, and, as a rule, is about 1 mile. In the bight between Cape Lisburne and Cape Beaufort there is a tidal current, and, imless driven in by a westerly wind, the outside general current is not felt. Northward of Point Lay, if the ice has not opened up from the shore, the current is stopped; but if the ice is open to Point Barrow the current continues along the shore and, because of the contracted space between the shore and the ice, increases in velocity to from 2 to 3 miles, and sometimes more, at Point Barrow. This general current is more or less affected by the wind, and may be decreased or even stopped at times by northerly winds, but whon the wind abates it starts again. When the wind is with the current its velocity is increased. Well offshore the ciurents are variable and not so strong, and depend to a great extent on the winds. There is, however, a general set northward. Cape Prince of Wales is a peak, 2,300 feet high, comparatively regular in outUne; on the south and southwest sides the slope of the mountain comes down to the sea. The face of the cape is a low sand beach, which extends northward 3 to 4 miles from the base of the moun- tain, and then trends northeastward toward Shishmaref Inlet. On this sand beach, close to BERING STBAIT. 57 the mountain, is the native village of Kingegau (Wales post office), the largest on the northern coast. On approaching the cape from southwestward, nothing less than 20 fathoms can be had at a distance of % mile from the highland at its southwestern extremity. From this point the 20-fathom line runs nearly northwest, gradually increasing its distance from shore until 5 miles northward, where it is 3 miles offshore. The 3-fathom line, commencing very close to the southwest point, increases, almost at once, its distance from the shore to 1 mile, continuing at that distance rnitil the cape makes northeastward, where it joins, presumably. Cape Prince of Wales Shoal. Cape Prince of Wales Shoal seeriis to be a ridge of sand, which extends about 8° true {N. by W. mag.) from the western extremity of the cape to a distance of about 25 miles. The depth of water on the shoal is not definitely known, but numerous cases are reported of whaling vessels having struck on it at distances supposed to be 10 or 15 miles from the cape. The western face of the shoal is very steep, the depth decreasing rapidly from 20 fathoms. It is recommended that vessels give this shoal a wide berth, and not haul eastward when coming from southward until at a distance of 25 to 30 miles from the cape. Vessels bound southward through the strait should be careful not to fall too far eastward and be caught between the shoal and the northern shore, especially sailing vessels with northerly or northeasterly winds. Vessels making an anchorage off the native village of Kingegan at Cape Prince of Wales should approach it only from southwestward. The soundings decrease rapidly from 13 fathoms, and anchorage should not be made in less than 7 fathoms. During the open season the current sweeps by the cape northward with a velocity of 2 to 3 miles, and care should be taken in making an anchorage here not to be swept by this current upon the shoal. Fairway Rock is a high, square-headed, steep-sided rock. The bottom is steep-to on all sides, and there are no outlying dangers. Big and Little Diomede Islands rise abruptly from the sea, with nearly perpendicular sides; they are steep-to, and there are no beaches. The tops of the islands are a sort of broken table-land. The larger island is 1,759 feet high, the smaller somewhat lower. In their vicinity the water is deep with generally rocky bottom, and the anchorage is poor. There are some rocks above water close to shore on the west side of the larger one. The native village on the larger island is on the southwest side, off which vessels can anchor in 14 fathoms, sandy bottom. The channel between the islands is about 2 miles wide. It is not generally used, but whaling vessels have passed through, carrying 20 fathoms of water, favoring the side of the channel next the larger island. There is a native village on a rocky slope on the smaller island facing this channel, off which a reef of rocks and sand is said to extend a short distance into the channel. East Cape is a bold, rugged headland, about 2,500 feet high, steep on all sides, and with deep water quite close-to. It has low, marshy land back of it, and when seen at a distance appears as an island. There are no dangers off the land, and except at the anchorages the water is deep with rocky bottom. There is good anchorage (in 8 fathoms) with good shelter from offshore winds, on both the north and south sides of the cape, where the low land back of it begins. There is also an anchorage (in 10 fathoms, muddy bottom) off the native village on the face of the cape. From Cape Prince of Wales to Shishmaref Inlet the coast is a low sand beach, with lagoons and marshes back of it. On a clear day the mountains in the interior can be seen, the Ears and Potato Mountain (Cone Hill) being distinguishable. Shishmaref Inlet, a large inlet extending into the land, has been explored by prospectors. Across its mouth is a low sand island, with shallow openings at each end. Shoal water extends off the mouth of the inlet several miles. It is reported that small craft can enter the inlet, and that there is shelter for such behind the island at the entrance. From Shishmaref Inlet to Cape Espenberg the coast is higher than that westward of the inlet, and is a line of low bluffs and small sand dunes, terminating at Cape Espenberg in a very low spit, which is made out with difficulty. A number of small native settlements are scattered along this coast from Cape Prince of Wales to Cape Espenberg. 58 AHCTIC OCEAN. KOTZEBTJE SOUND is about 30 miles wide at its entrance between Cape Espenberg and Cape Krusenstern, 22 miles from Cape Espenberg to the shoal water off the mouth of Hotham Inlet, and extends about 30 miles south of Cape Espenberg. Except for the shoal off the mouth of Hotham Inlet, the soundings throughout the sound are very uniform, varying from 7 to 9 fathoms. From Cape Espenberg the west shore of the soimd is shallow some distance from the land, and vessels should approach it with care. The land on this side of the sound is generally low. There is a small but conspicuous hill about halfway between the cape and the southern shore. On the south side of the sound the land is higher, more rocky, and of a bolder character than the west shore. Under water, also, it is bold, and has soundings of 4 and 5 fathoms quite close to the promontories. Chamisso Island, at the entrance to Eschscholtz Bay, is a small, rounded island with a grassy hill 231 feet high. Its shores are rocky, except its northeast end, which is a low sand spit. Along its north and east sides shoals extend M to 3^ mile offshore. Puffin Islet, west of Chamisso Island, is rocky, with two conspicuous rocks southward of it. Between the island and rocks and Chamisso Island the water is shoal and rocky. The water on the north and west sides of Puffin Islet is bold. Chamisso Anchorage, between Chamisso Island and Choris Peninsula, is the only place on the Arctic coast of Alaska that can be called a harbor. B3' shifting anchorage H "lile good shelter can be found from all winds.- Off Choris Peninsula shoals extend toward Chamisso Island fully 1 mile. The deepest water is close to Puffin Islet. In approacliing the anchorage give Point Garnet, the southwest extremity of Choris Peninsula, a berth of 1 mile, and stand down well toward Puffin Islet before hauling in. Anchor with Puffin Islet bearing 203° true (S. mag.) at a distance not greater than % mile, in 8 fathoms, muddy bottom. Early in the season, fresh water can be obtained on Chamisso Island and on the east side of Choris Peninsula. Tides. — The mean rise and fall at Chamisso Island is 4.0 feet. Eliwalik River empties on the southern shore about 8 miles southward of Chamisso Island. It is reported that with local knowledge a depth of 12 feet at high water can be taken into the river to an anchorage behind the spit at the numth. Kiwalik is a post office on the spit at the mouth of Kiwalik River. Deering is a post office on the south side of Kotzebue Sound at the mouth of Inmachuk liiver, about 22 miles westward of Kiwalik. Eschscholtz Bay, east of Chamisso Island and Choris Peninsula, is generally shoal. The soundings decrease gradually from Chamisso Anchorage to 23^ fathoms at 2 miles oflE the point which lies 4 miles west of Elephant Point. East of this point the shoaling continues, and this part of the bay is only navigable for small boats. The shore at the liead of the bay is difficult of access on account of long, muddy fiats, wfiich, at low water are bare in some places }i mile from the beach. It is probable that the whole bay is gradually filling up, and vessels going east of Chamisso Anchorage should proceed with caution. Buckland River, a large but shallow river, empties into the head of the bay. There are few natives in its vicinity. Choris Peninsula, forming the western side of Eschscholtz Bay, has two hills, about 300 feet high, separated by a low, sandy neck. Northward of Choris Peninsula the land is low for some distance, and then rises into low bluffs which continue to Hotham Inlet. These bluffs are composed of ice and frozen nuid, wliich is gradually melting and sUding down, making deep furrows all along their face. Cape Blossom is a distinctly marked point in this line of bluffs, which are highest at the cape and slope to either side. The bottom of this side of the sound is very even southward of Cape Blossom at a distance of about 5 miles from the land ; but northward of the cape a shoal, with very little water on it, extends 8 to 10 miles off the land from the mouth of Hotham Inlet, and south to witliin 2 miles of the latitude of Cape Blossom. This shoal is very dangerous, as the soundings give short CAPE BLOSSOM, E. BY N., DISTANT 3 MILES. KOTZEBUE SOUND. 69 warning of its proximity, the distance from the shore can not be judged under ordinary condi- tions, and there are no good landmarks. The general anchorage in this vicinity is off Cape Blossom, as it is the nearest point frona wliich communication can be had with Hotham Inlet. In approaching the cape, it should not be brought to bear eastward of 00° true (ENE. mag.) until in the vicinity of the anchorage. Anchor in 5 fathoms with the cape bearing between 90° true {ENE. mag.) and 102° true (E. by N. mag.) distant 3 miles. This anchorage is protected from northerly aiid easterly winds. There is generally a current, strongest in the early part of the season, with a velocity of J^^ to 1 mile, setting northwestward. The coast from Cape Blossom to the mouth of Hotham Inlet is the place ,of rendezvous for the natives of the surrounding countr\' for the purpose of fishing and trading. The coast natives from Cape Prince of Wales, including the Diomedes and King Island, to Point Hope assemble here about the last of July to meet those who come down the large rivers from the interior. HOTHAM INLET is about 35 miles in length and 4 to 8 miles in width. Its general trend is southeast; its water is little influenced by tides, but a prolonged southeast wind causes a low stage. The entrance is obstructed by vast mud flats and sand bars, some of which are bare at low water. There is a shifting channel, which is difficult to trace, running close along the shore from Cape Blossom north to the inlet, through which 4 to 5 feet can be carried. This channel could not be found in 1898. A channel with a depth of 8 feet on the bar at high water was used in 1898, but it is difficult to find without a pilot. The entrance to this channel was about 10 miles from the Cape Blossom shore and well northward of the cape. Winds from southward and westward raise the water on the bar and from northward and eastward lower it. In the inlet proper the channel in 1884 had a depth of 3 to 7 fathoms for a distance of 20 miles. There are three large rivers emptying into the inlet. No landing can be made at many places in the inlet on account of extensive mud flats. The Noatak River, joining it at the north, has numerous rapids, and is not navigable for any distance for boats larger than native canoes. The natives portage from the head- waters of this river to the Ciiipp River, and thus to the Arctic Ocean east of Point Barrow. The Kowak River empties at the east side of the inlet by many mouths, off wliich shoals with 2 to 4 feet extend far out into the inlet. In crossing the bar, which is indicated by drift lodged on the shoals, it is difficult to find a channel, the one generally used being known as the "Middle Mouth." The delta from the inlet is about 45 miles long and very difficult to navigate, but when fairly between the banks of the river there is comparatively deep water. In 1898 a large number of prospectors were attracted to the region of Hotham Inlet. Two stem-wheel steamers were used in transporting their supplies up the Kowak River, and it is said that these steamers ascended the river 200 miles. The current in the river was found very strong, running at some points with a velocity of 5 or 6 miles an hour. The current is dangerous for small boats; eight men lost their lives in 1898 while boating their provisions up the river. The natives portage from the headwaters of the Kowak River to the Koyukuk River, a branch of the Yukon. Selawik Lake is the prolongation of the head of Hotham Inlet eastward; it is about 50 miles long and 20 miles wide, and a depth of 2 fathoms can be taken around the lake by giving the shores a good berth. It has a large river, Selawik River, emptying into it at its head, the entrance of which is obstnicted by a mud flat extending ^ mile from the shore, through which a depth of 12 feet could be carried, in 1884, into the westernmost outlet of the river into the lake. From Hotham Inlet to Cape Krusenstern the coast is a low beach. The shoal water from the mouth of the inlet extends nearly halfway to the cape; the edge of the shoal is steep,"^ and should be approached carefully. From where the shoal joins the land to Cape Krusenstern there is good water close in, with regular soundings. Cape Krusenstern. — Back of Cape Krusenstern there is a high, prominent range of mountains, which can be seen at a long distance. On nearer approach the mountains are 60 AKCnO OCEAN. seen to fall away to the cape in a series of steps, and in shaping a course into the sound these cliffs, or steps, must not be mistaken for the cape, which is a low point extending about 3 miles westward of them. A shoal extends about 2 miles westward and northward oflF the point of the cape. From Cape Krusenstem to Cape Seppings the coast is a low, shingly beach, back of which is a series of lagoons, which discharge their waters through small, shallow openings. The high land of Cape Krusenstem extends along this coast some distance inland, terminating in the Mulgrave Hills, about 30 miles northwestward. After passing Mulgrave Hills the land is an extensive plain until in the vicinity of Cape Seppings. Here the mountains approach close to the coast and slope down to the water. Cape Seppings and Cape Thompson are not distinct, and it is difficult to determine the points to which the names should be applied. In the vicinity of Cape Thompson, for a distance of 6 mUes, the mountains break off directly to the water in a series of abrupt cliffs about 500 feet high. The coast is generally straight, and there are no distinct promontories. What was probably named Cape Thompson is a rugged mountain face, about in the middle of this line of cliffs, having at its southern end a distinct series of strata in the form of an irregular semicircle. In the ravine south of this point there is a small stream, from which good water can easUy be obtained. Directly off the water- ing place anchorage may be had in 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. At other points along the cliff's the bottom is generally rocky. From Cape Thompson the mountains continue northward to Cape Lisbume, while the coast curves northwestward and westward to Point Hope. Point Hope is the western extremity of a low tongue of land which projects almost 16 miles from the general line of the coast mountain range. It has a steep shingle beach, and its surface is broken by a number of lagoons. The largest of these, Marryat Inlet, has its entrance on the north side, close to where the coast trends northward, and a draft of 10 feet can be carried through the entrance. For a number of years some small schooners have been using this inlet as a place to winter. Those not familiar should sound out the channel before enter- ing. In the first of the season, when the ice breaks in the inlet, there is a strong current run- ning out and the moving ice is more or less dangerous. There is a large native village called Tigara on the end of Point Hope, and scattered on the south side, from the end of the point to Cape Thompson, are a number of whaling stations conducted by white men, which are main- tained throughout the year. In the bight just north of the high land of Cape Thompson the water is somewhat shoaler than farther west, though the soundings are regular. Seven miles east of Point Hope there is a 3-fathom shoal nearly 1 mUe offshore. As the point is approached the water deepens, and toward its end 8 fathoms can be carried to within 34 mile of the beach. The tip of the point is very bold, there being 13 fathoms a few ship's lengths from shore; but on roxmding the point to the north side the soundings decrease rapidly to 5 fathoms 3^ mile from shore, and, in general, the water in the bight on the north side of the point is shoaler than on the south side. At the mouth of Marryat Inlet shoals extend off some distance. There is a narrow shoal, with a depth of 4 fathoms at its southern end, which lies about 234 miles 314° true (WNW. mag.) from Point Hope. This shoal extends in a general 314° true {WNW. mag.) direction for a distance of 3 miles from the 4-fathom spot, and has depths of 5 to 7 fathoms over it. From the mouth of Marryat Inlet to Cape Lisbume the mountains lie along the coast and terminate at the shore in rugged, rocky cliffs. There are a few ravines through the cliffs, having running streams, with beaches at the shore, where fresh water can be obtained. Cape Lisburne is a bare, brown mountain, 850 feet high, forming a rugged headland that is distinctly marked by the number of pinnacles and scattered rocks near its summit. Its faces at the shore are very steep. At the cape the coast changes its direction abruptly eastward. There are no outlying rocks, but there is a ridge extending 5 miles northeastward from the cape, on which 5 fathoms can be found at a distance of 2 to 3 nules from the land. Off this cape the wind rushes down from the mountains in gusts of great violence and varying directions, and with offshore winds vessels should keep well off the land in passing. ALASKA. 61 From Cape Lisburne to Cape Sabine the land is lower and loses the rugged character of that southward of the former cape. The hills are rounded and rolling, regular in outline, and slope to the sea. Toward Cape Sabine the land becomes a series of ridges and valleys running inland'; both teratjinate at the coast in bluffs. Cape Sabine is the end of one of these ridges, and projects but slightly from the general line of coast. Coal.— Veins of coal are found from Cape Thompson to Cape Beaufort. In the face of the bluffs at Cape Sabine some veins, varying in thickness from 1 to 4 feet, have been worked by whaling vessels. The veins show plainly along the top of the bluffs directly at the shore. The use of the coal is limited, owing to its poor qiiality and the difficulties in obtaining it, and it is not reconunended to depend upon it excfept in case of necessity. From Cape Sabine to Cape Beaufort the land continues of a rolling character until near- ing the latter cape, which is a dark mountain coming down directly to the coast. There is no break in the coast at the cape, and it probably received its name as such because seen at a distance. This is the most northern extension of high land on the coast of Alaska. The mountains at this point trend inland and the coast continues low. The bight fi'om Cape Lisburne to Cape Beaufort is comparatively shallow, but the bottom is regular and anchorage may be had anywhere alongshore from 1 to 2 miles from land. Directly off Cape Beaufort the water is shoaler than elsewhere between it and Cape Lisburne. There are numerous valleys along this part of the coast, nearly all of which have streams of good water. North of Cape Beaufort it is almost impossible to obtain fresh water on the coast. About 10 miles north of Cape Beaufort is the southern end of a large lagoon, which stretches along the coast without a break to within a few miles of Wainwright Inlet. Sep- arating this lagoon from the ocean is a narrow strip of sand beach, elevated but a few feet above the water, with several small, shallow openings through it south of Icy Cape, and two con- siderable openings north of that cape. The land on the inside of the lagoon is generally low, but in coasting along, some small bluffs, with low, rolling land back of them, can be seen in places. South of Icy Cape the lagoon has three large rivers emptying into it, and its whole extent is filled with flats and bars that make it scarcely navigable even for native canoes. North of Icy Cape the water in the lagoon is deeper. Through an opening about 10 to 12 miles from the cape 8 feet of water can be safely carried, with 2 to 3 fathoms inside. The channel is close to the sand spit on the south side of the entrance. Another opening, 10 to 12 miles farther north, is somewhat shallower. Point Lay and Icy Cape are merety bends in the sand spit forming the coast. Both places can be distinguished by some Immmocks on the beach. A wooden beacon, 20 feet high, was erected on Icy Cape to mark the beginning of Blossom Shoals. From Cape Beaufort to Icy Cape the ];ottom is regular, and the shore can be approached closer than in that part of the bight west of the former cape. When coasting, it should be remembered that off the openings into the lagoon the water is shoaler than on either side. Blossona Shoals extend 6 to 8 miles off Icy Cape, and are a number of ridges parallel with the coast. These shoals are greater in extent than shown on any chart, and, from the groimding of vessels and observation, appear to be spreading. In approaching the shoals the bottom is lumpy and the soundings irregidar. Of late years, on account of frequent grounding in un- expected places about the edge of the shoals, all the whaling vessels give them a wide berth; and it is recommended that vessels rounding Icy Cape should keep outside of 12 fathoms. Wainwright Inlet, alioiit 40 miles from Icy Cape, is a moderate-sized lagoon, and has a river emptying at its head. Its entrance, between Point Marsh and Point Collie, is a narrow, difficult channel, through which 8 to 10 feet can be carrifed. Inside the water is deeper. Off the mouth of the inlet the water is shoal fully 1 mile from land. The coast from Point Collie to Point Belcher is a continuous line of mud cliffs until within a few miles of the latter point. At Point Belcher the coast again becomes a shingle beach, with lagoons inside, and back of it low, rolling hills, which are higher than any other land that can be seen north of Cape Beaufort. North of the point the coast continues in a very low sand beach to Seahorse Islands. 62 ABCTIC OCEAN. Seahorse Islands and Point Franklin are the highest points of a continuous sand bank which extends from a point 8 miles north of Point Belcher to Point Franklin, thence turning abruptly east to the mainland at Peard Bay incloses a large lagoon. The first two islands from Point Belcher are higher than the rest of the bank, and their position seems to be permanent. The openings between the islands are, as a rule, very shallow and continually changing. Former openings are now closed, and openings now occur in the positions of former banks. Point Franklin is a very small sand island, with several hummocks on it. It is so small and far removed from the other islands that it is not easily made out. The ^eatest changes in the bank occvu" in that part of it between Point Franklin and Peard Bay, of which what is above water is merely a narrow strip of sand. - In the vicinity of Seahorse Islands the water is shoal, especially off the openings and Point Franklin. Off Point Franklin a shoal makes out several miles northward and northeastward, and vessels rounding the point should give it a berth of 4 to 5 miles. Peard Bay, eastward of Point Franklin, is a deep bight, which is often used by whalers in heavy southerly and southwest winds, and for protection from ice when it sets toward the shore. The bottom of the bay is regular, and the soundings decrease gradually to the shore. The water is deeper along the mainland than on the south side along the sand spit making out to Point Franklin. The coast from Peard Bay to Cape Smyth is a line of mud cliffs 25 to 70 feet high, being highest at what is called Skull CUff. From this point they become gradually lower to Cape Smyth, where they end. The coast curves regularly northward, and there are no projecting points. The cliffs are broken by numej-ous small rivers. There are beaches at the mouths of the rivers, but little or none along the face of the cliffs. Cape Smyth is not a projecting point, and can not be distinguished as a cape. There is a large native village at the end of the mud cliffs at this point. The United States signal station and refuge station, formerly here, are not now maintained, but there is a whaling station conducted by wliite men. From Cape Smyth to Elson Bay the coast is low with a grassy plain back of it; but from the head of Elson Bay to Point Barrow the coast is a narrow sand spit. Offshore from Refuge Inlet to the head of Elson Bay the water is deep, and soundings of 15 fathoms are found about 2. miles from the land. The water then shoals evenly to 7 fathoms at about 1 mile from shore. The depths then lessen rapidly to 2 J^ to 3 fathoms about ^ mile offshore, where there is a slight ridge shoved up by the ice, and which in the early part . of the season is always marked by heavy ground ice. Inside and close to this ridge the water deepens again to 3 to 4 fathoms, and vessels seek this inside passage for protection from the ice when necessary. The ridge ends in a 2 J^-fathom shoal about 1 3^ miles offshore where the high land ends and the sand spit begins at the head of Elson Bay. From this point to Point Barrow, depths of 3 H to 4 fathoms can be carried very close up to the sand spit, and there is apparently no ridge in the bottom as in that southward. At Point Barrow, latitude 71° 23' 31" N., longitude 156° 21' 30" W., the most northern point of Alaska, the sand spit forming the coast turns abruptly eastward. There is a native village on the end of the point. Directly off the point the water is fairly bold, and 3 fathoms can be carried to within J^ mile of the shore. Farther offshore the deepest water of tliis part of the Arctic Ocean is found. On rounding the point eastward the water becomes shoal, and the coast can seldom be approached anywhere closer than 2 miles. About 2 miles east of Point Barrow is Moore Channel, the entrance to Elson Bay, where H. M. S. Plover wintered in 1852-53-54. A shoal with a least depth of 2 fathoms makes off from the point on the east side of the channel, and extends westward, from H to ^ mile off the sand spit, and ends nearly opposite the native village on Point Barrow. Inside the shoal there is a channel leading to Moore Channel, with nothing less than 3 fathoms, and deeper water in Moore Channel. This channel is often used as an anchorage for protection from the ice, as heavy ice grounds on the outer shoal. Tide?. — The mean rise and fall at Point Barrow is 0.4 foot. iZNTD ex: A. Page. Acherk Harbor 7 Agamgik Bay 21 Aiktak Island 15 Akun Cove 17 AkunHead 17 Akun Island 17 Akun Strait 18 Akutan Harbor 18 Akutan Island 17-19 Akutan Pass 14,19 Akutan Peak 17 Aleks Rock 6 Ajnak Island 29 Amugul Bay 21 Anderson Rock 6 Apoon Pass 50-51 Arch Point 11 Arctic Ocean 5S-62 Ayatanak Island 16 Avatanak Strait 16 B. Baby Islands 19 Baby Pass 19 BalukaHill 35 Battery Point 18 Beaver Inlet 20 Bering Sea : 25-53 Bering, Village 52 Besboro Island 45 Beulah Island 44 Biorka Island 20 Bird Island , 10 Black Point - 45 Black Rock 34 Blossom Shoals 61 Bristol Bay 28-35 Brundage Head 20 C. Cape Beaufort 61 Cape Blossom 58-59 Cape Cheerful 22 Cape Chibukak 43 CapeChitnak .'- 43 Cape Constantino 34 Cape Corwin 39 Cape Darby 46 Cape Denbigh - 45 CapeEtolin 39 Cape Glazenap 29 CapeGreig 31 Cape Kalek-ta 22 Cape Kialegak 43 Cape Krusenstem 59 Cape Kutuzof 31 Cape Lazaref 11 Cape Lisbume 60 Cape Lutke U Cape Manning - 39 Cape Mendenhall 39 Cape Menshlkof 31 Page. Cape Mohican 38 Cape Mordvinof 28 Cape Morgan 18 Cape Newenham 35 Cape Nome 51 Cape Pankof 9 Cape Peirce 35 Cape Prince of Wales 56-57 Cape Prince of Wales Shoal 57 Cape Romanzof 41 Cape Sabine 61 Cape Sarlchef 11,28 Cape Sarichef lighthouse 12 Cape Seniavin 31 Cape Sepplngs . . . '. 60 Cape Smyth 62 Cape Thompson 6o Cape Upright 40 Cape Vancouver 40 Cape Vancouver to Apoon Pass 40-42 Cape York 52 Carolyn Island 46 Carter, village 35 Caton Harbor 8 Caton Island 6 Cave Point 28 Chagvan Bay 35 Chamlsso Anchorage 58 Chamlsso Island 58 Cheenik * Chlstiakof Island ,. 31 Choris Peninsula 58 Clark Point ^4 Coal Bluff ^ 30 Coast: Cape Krusenstewi to Cape Sepplngs 60 Cape Nome to Bering Strait 51-52 Cape Nome to Cape Rodney 51 Cape Rodney to Cape Douglass 51 Cape Vancouver to Apoon Pass 40-42 Hotham Inlet to Cape Krusenstem 59 Port Molier to Kuskokwim River 31-35 Rocky Point to Cape Nome 47 St. Michael to Apoon Pass 49-50 St. Michael Bay to Cape Darby 45-46 Unlniak Island, from Otter Cove to Cape Sarichef 10-12 Unlmak Pass to Port Molier 28-29 Constantine Bay 22,24 Cripple Creek ^b Crooked Island ** Crow Reef - 3" Crowley Rock * Currents, Arctic Ocean 56 Currents, Bering Sea 2ft-27 ». Deep Bay 21 Deerlng 58 Derbin Strait 1* Diomede Islands -5J Directions: Akutan Pass.; 1' Isanotskl Strait to St. Michael 48-49 63 64 INDKX. Direotlons— Ctontlnued. • Page. Port Clare nee 53 UnalaskaBay 24-25 Unalga Pass 20 Unga Island to Cape Kalekta 12 Unimak Pass 14-15 Dnlmak Pass or Cape Kalekta to Norton Sound or Port Clar- ence 47-4S Doe Point , 30 Dora Harbor 10 P utoh Harbor , 23 m. Eagle Rock, Herendeen Bay , 30 Eagle Rock, Sarniak Islands 7 East Anchor Cove 10 East Cape, Siberia 57 East Cape, St. Lawrence Island 43 Egg Island, Norton Sound 45 Egg Island Passage 20 Egg Island, Unalga Pass 20 English Bay 21 Entran'e Point 29 Erskine Bay 21 Eschscholtz Bay 58 F. ("airway Rbok 57 Final Bay 21 Fog, BeringSea 1 27 Fox Islands and Passes 12-25 a. Garden Cove '... 36 General directions. (See Directions.) Glory o( Russia Cape 40 Golotnin Bay 46 Golofnin Sound 46 Goodnews Bay 35 Grantiey Harbor 52 H. Hagemeister Strait 34 Hagemeister Island 34 Hague Channel 30 HaUtiieRock 30 Hall Island 40 Harbor Point 29 Hennig Rock 6 Herendeen Bay 29-30 High Island 34 Hogback .'. 50 Hothara Inlet 59 Hotsprings Bay 18 I. Ice, Arctic Ocean 55-66 Ice, BeringSea 26 Icy Cape 61 IkatanBay 8-9 Ikatan Peninsula 9-10 Ikatan Point 9 niuliuk 23 IliuIiukBay 22 Uiuliuk Harbor 23 [liuliukReef 25 Inner Signal 20 [sanotski Mountain '. .13 Isanotskl Strait 8-9 IzembekBay 29 J. Johnsons Bay 7 Johnston Ctiannel 30 Johnston Hill 32 K. Kalekta Bay 22 Kaligagan Island l6 Kiktaguk 45 King Island 52 Page. Klngegan h7 KlsselenBay , 21 Kiwallk 58 Klwallk River 58 Kotlik 50 Kotzebue Sound 58-69 Kowak River 69 Kudiakof Islands , 29 Kudobin Islands 29 Kuskokwira River 35 Kvichak River 32 Lava Point ; 18 Lenard Rock 6 Lida Anchorage 7 Lost Harbor 17 M. Makushin Cape 24 Makushin Volcano 13, 20, 24 Marryat Inlet 60 Midway Reef 30 Mine Harbor 30 Moore Channel 62 Morzhovoi Village 9 Murphys Crack 7 N. Naknek River 32 Nash Harbor 40 Nichols Hills 33 Noatak River 59 Nome 51 North Anchorage 36 North Head, Akutan Island 18 North Hill 37 Northeast Cape, St. Lawrence Island 42 Northeast Point, St. Paul Island 37 Northeast Point, Sannak Island 7 Northeast Harbor 7 Norton Bay 46 Norton Sound 44-47 Nunivak Island 38-40 Nushagak River 32 O. Old Man Rocks 20 Oneida Rock 6 Otter Cove 10 Otter Island 36 Outer Signal 20 P. Pankof Breaker 9 Pastoliak River 60 Pavlof Harbor , 7 Peard Bay 62 Peterson Bay 8 Pikmiktalik River 49 Pinnacle Island 40 Poa Island 17 Pogromni Volcano 13, 28 PoUit Barrow 62 Point Belcher 61 Pohit Divide 29 Point Franklin 62 Pohit Hope - 60 Point Lay 61 Point Protection , 33 Point Romanof 49 Point Spencer 52, 63 Portage Bay. (See Chagvan Bay.) Port Clarence 52-53 Port Heiden 31 PortMoUer - 29-30 Port Safety 47 Pribilof Islands 35-38 Priest Rock 22 Princes Head 27 INDEX 65 Princess Rock Promontory Cove. Promontory Hill.. Puffin Islet Punuk Islands Reef Point Ridge Point Rook Point, St. Michael Island . Roclcy Point to Cape Nome Rocky Point, Norton Sound Rocljy Point, Uiialaska Bay. . . Rootok Island Rootok Strait Round IslEind Rukavltsle Cape Page. 8 11 11 58 « 37 18 44 47 46 25 16 16 34 11 Hailing Directions. (Sec Dirwlions.) St. George Island. : 36 St. Lawrence Island 42-44 St. Matthew Island - - - 40 St. Michael 44-46 St. Michael Canal 49 St. Michael Island 44 St. Michael to Cape Darliy 45-46 St. Paul Island 37-38 9 6-8 6 40 41 U 11 ; 62 U 31 26 59 17 30 Shlshaldin Volcano 13,29 .Shlshmaref Inlet Signals, The Sledge Island Solomon Southeast Cape Southwest Point Strait Bay Stuart Island Summer Bay SanMn Island Sannak Islands Sannak Mountain Sarichef Strait .Scammon Bay Scotch Cap Scotch Cap lighthouse. Seahorse Islands Seal Cape Seal Islands Second Priest Selawlk Lake Seredka Bay smngle Point Tanaskan Bay. Tangik Island.. Tanginak Islet. Teller Page Tidal Currents, Fox Islands Passes 13-14 Tides : S TigaldaBay 16 Tigalda Island ,.... 15 Tolstoi Point , 45 Tonki Point 37 Topkok Head 47 Traders Cove 9 Triangle Island 39 Troitz Island 6 Tusearora Rock 25 Twins, The 34 V. Udagak Bay 21 Udagak Strait 21 Udakta 23 Udamat Bay 21 Ugadaga Bay 21 Ugaguk River 32 Ugamak Island 15 Ugamak Strait 15 Ugashik River - 31 Ulakta Head 22, 24 Unalaklik River 40 Unalga Cove 19 Unalga Island 19 Unalga Pass 19-20 Unalaska 23 Unalaska Bay 22-26 Unalaska Island 20 Uniktali Bay 21 UnlmakBay 11 Unimak Cove 7 Unlmak Island, south coast of 10-12 Unimak Pass 11-12. 13, 14-15 UriliaBay 28 V. Variation of the Compass 5 Vulcan Cove 18 W. Wainwright Inlet 61 Wales. (See Kingegan.) Walrus Island, Pribilof Islands 37 Walrus Islands, Bristol Bay 34 Weather, Arctic Ocean 56 Weather, Bering Sea S 27-2S West Anchor Cove 10 Whale Island 44 Wislow Island 24 Y. Yukon Delta 41-42 Yukon Flats 42 Z. Zapadnl Bay 36 60835—09- o LIST OF COAST PILOTS PUBLISHED BY THE COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. Price. U. S. Coast Pilot, Atlantic Coast, Parts I-II, from St. Croix River to Cape Ann |3. 50 U. S. Coast Pilot, Atlantic Coast, Part III, from Cape Ann to Point Judith 50 U. S. Coast Pilot, Atlantic Coast, Part IV, from Point Judith to New York, including Long Island Sound 50 U. B. Coast Pilot, Atlantic Coast, Part V, from New York to Chesapeake Bay Entrance 50 U. S. Coast PUot, Atlantic Coast, Part VI, Chesapeake Bay and Tributaries 50 U. S. Coast Pilot, Atlantic Coast, Part VII, from Chesapeake Bay Entrance to Key West 50 U. S. Coast Pilot, Atlantic Coast, Part VIII, Gulf of Mexico, from Key West to the Rio Grande 50 U. S. Coast Pilot, Pacific Coast, California, Oregon, and Washington 50 U. S. Coast Pilot, Pacific Coast, Alaska, Part I, from Dixon Entrance to Yakutat Bay 50 U. S. Coast Pilot, West Indies, Porto Rico 50 COAST PILOT NOTES, ALASKA. Bulletin No. 38. — Prince William Sound, Cook Inlet, Kodiak Island, and route from lliialat