LIBRARY 
 
 UWVIKSITY or 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 SAN DIEGO
 
 3 182202261 4788 
 
 Social Sciences & Humanities Library 
 
 University of California, San Diego 
 Please Note: This item is subject to recall. 
 
 Date Due 
 
 NTERUBRAKY 
 
 Cl 39 (5/97) 
 
 UCSD Lib.
 
 G/C
 
 THE 
 
 A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE 
 
 MANUFACTURE OF WOOLENS, 
 
 Part First gives full and Explicit Instructions upon Drafting, 
 
 Cross Drawing, Combining Weaves, and the correct arrange- 
 
 ment of Weights, Colors, and sizes of Yarns to produce 
 
 any desired fabric, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH DIAGRAMS OF VARIOUS WEAVINGS, AND TWELVE 
 SAMPLES OF CLOTH FOR EXPLANATION AND PRACTICE. 
 
 Part Second is fully supplied with Extended Tables, Rules, 
 Examples, Explanations, &c. 
 
 GIVES FULL, AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION IN DETAILED ORDER, FROM 
 
 THE STOCK DEPARTMENT TO THE MARKET, OF THE PROPER SELEC- 
 
 TION AND USE OF THE VARIOUS GRADES AND STAPLES OF WOOL, 
 
 WITH THE ADMIXTURE OF WASTE, COTTON AND SHODDY; AJfD 
 
 THE PROPER APPLICATION AND ECONOMICAL USE OF 
 
 THE VARIOUS OILS, DRUGS, DTE STUFFS, 
 
 SOAPS, BELTING, &C. 
 
 Also, the most approved method for Calculating and Estimating the 
 
 Cost of Goods, for All Wool, Wool Waste and Cotton and 
 
 Cotton Warps. 
 
 WITH 
 
 Examples and Calculations on the Circular Motions of Wheels, Pinions, 
 Drums, Pulleys and Geers, How to Speed them, &c. 
 
 THE TWO PARTS COMBINED FORM A WHOLE WORK ON THE AMERICAN 
 
 WAY OF MANUFACTURING MORE COMPLETE THAN ANY 
 
 YET ISSUED. 
 
 BY GEORGE C. BURNS. 
 
 CENTRAL FALLS, R. I.: 
 E. L. FKEEMAN, STEAM BOOK, JOB AND LITHOGRAPHIC PRINTER. 
 
 1872.
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1872, by 
 
 GEORGE C. BURNS, 
 In the office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 advancement in the art of manufacturing, as well as 
 in any of the other arts, depends in a great measure if 
 not entirely on our faculties, and the helps and opportu- 
 nities afforded us. That much of the required assistance and 
 information may be obtained from good books all must admit. 
 It was not the design of the author to introduce novelties, but to 
 form a practical digest of rules and facts, and to explain them 
 clearly and accurately. And though he has taken the liberty to 
 think and write for himself, he trusts that few have excelled 
 him in diligence of research, and in the plain and concise manner 
 in which he has defined and exemplified the work under consid- 
 eration. 
 
 It is the learner's diction that is to be improved, and this book 
 will be found well calculated to effect that object, and perhaps 
 there are few, however learned, who, on a perusal of this work, 
 will not be furnished with many important rules and facts, which 
 had not occurred to their own observation. Practice is considered 
 a better pilot than theory, but there is always a theory connected 
 with practice ; and by a happy combination of theory and practice, 
 the most perfect results are obtained. Ambitious of making not a 
 large, but an acceptable book, he has compressed into this work 
 the most essential parts of a mass of material, from which he could 
 as easily have formed a folio. Ten years of careful observation 
 and experience under favorable opportunities, has enabled him, to 
 obtain a clear knowledge of the most important connections of 
 the business. How far he has succeeded in the execution of his 
 design, is willingly left to the just decision of those qualified to 
 judge. 
 
 GEOEGE. C. BURNS.
 
 PART FIRST 
 
 The above sample of cloth represents a Doeskin weave (fof the 
 ground), combined with a herringbone stripe. The doeskin is 
 made with 5 harness, 10 bolts; the herringbone is made with 5 
 harness, 10 bolts, but is CROSS DEAWJST from 20 harness. Each of 
 the two weaves of the combination are made wjth separate har- 
 ness and chain motions.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 N"n 1 5th Harness ** *** ** 1st warp thread drafted. 
 . 1MU. 1. 4(h .. + 4.+ + **** ->d ...... 
 
 *' ******* M 
 *** >***> 4th - 
 
 n$***::* *** sth " 
 
 f, 
 ill 
 
 TH 1O JO 
 
 - 
 FRONT . 
 
 DIAG. 1. Represents the design fr9m which to build the chain, 
 to weave the doeskin (or ground work) of sample of cloth. 
 
 DIAG. No. 2. 
 
 CD 
 
 4th S< 
 
 , / * 
 
 "DfflSBBffiDDSD 
 
 1st warp thread drafted. 
 
 2d 
 
 3d 
 
 4th 
 
 3d Set 
 
 * 
 
 2d Set. 
 
 5th 
 (ith 
 7th 
 Sth 
 9th 
 
 * -v * T- 1 ' ! 1 1 1 
 
 **** ** nil, 
 
 >* **** i-Jti, 
 
 ****oa; mh 
 
 i 14th 
 
 * * 15th 
 
 I6th 
 
 17th 
 
 1Sth 
 
 ,***** * lath 
 * * * --'mli 
 ** * *** -'1st 
 
 :: * : ***** w.i 
 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 2. Represents the design from which to build the chain 
 to weave the herringbone, and the two threads of orange and 
 black twist which pass through its center, before it is cross drawn, 
 showing that it would require 20 harness, 10 bolts for the her- 
 ringbone, and 2 harness for the orange and black twist
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 DiAG.No.3. n "SffStf 
 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 3. Represents the design from which to build the chain 
 to weave the herringbone, and is the same design the chain was 
 built from to weave it in the sample of cloth. And also repre- 
 sents Diag. No. 2. as it appears after it has been cross drawn and 
 reduced to 5 harness, 10 bolts. 
 
 DIAGRAMS. 
 
 All the diagrams in this book represent the harness, and the 
 designs from which to build, and arrange the chain, to operate 
 the harness, for the Crompton, or any other loom operated by a 
 chain motion. 
 
 THE HARNESS CHAIN. 
 
 The component parts of the harness chain are divided and 
 known as Cylinder, Bolts or Bars, Rollers, Tubes and Links. 
 The cylinder is that part which is attached to the loom, and 
 which revolves the chain ; it also has the check wheel attached 
 to it for reversing the chain, &c. The bolts or bars carry the roll- 
 ers and tubes. The rollers are usually employed to elevate the 
 harness, and the tubes for depressing them, and keeping the roll- 
 ers in place, and the bolts arranged and connected with the links 
 at each end form the chain. Some of the Crompton improved 
 looms have the peg chain attachments, and for those chains the 
 pegs answer for rollers and the holes for tubes. And Mr. Cromp- 
 ton has an improved loom operated by a chain, and for which the 
 rollers depress the harness, and the tubes elevate them. The 
 dark squares in the diagrams are to represent the rollers (or the 
 elevation of the harness), and the blank squares the tubes (or the 
 depression of the harness.) Designers usually read dark squares 
 as risers, and the blank squares as sinkers, when calling off their 
 designs. And to build a chain for the Crompton improved last 
 mentioned, or for the Greenhalgh loom, then read and make the 
 designs the reverse of those in this book, reading rollers as sink- 
 ers, and tubes as risers.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER, 
 
 HOW TO DRAFT THE PATTERNS FROM A SAMPLE 
 OF CLOTH. 
 
 XOTE. The following instructions upon drafting and design- 
 ing, are intended for those persons who have had a limited know- 
 edge of the motions and changes of a loom, as well as those who 
 have had some practice in weaving. But all who intend to learn 
 the art thoroughly, should acquire some practical knowledge of 
 weaving, so as to fully understand the changes of the harness as 
 produced by the harness chain, and also the filling changes which 
 take place in connection with the warp to form the patterns; the 
 instructions given are clear and explicit, and should be read care- 
 fully, and understood thoroughly, and with the aid of the samples 
 of cloth which are to be used for practice, and with the diagrams 
 of weaves hereafter explained, it would seem that any person of 
 ordinary intelligence, ought to learn the theory of the art, and 
 apply the theory to practice without any difficulty. 
 
 For writing down the draftings, you will require a few squares 
 of design paper or have a slate marked off in small squares sim- 
 ilar to those in diagrams. And for picking up and separating 
 the threads in the cloth, a coarse needle with a small handle 
 attached, is the best instrument for the purpose. ^You then take 
 the sample of cloth you intend to draft the pattern from, hold the 
 face toward you, with warp and filling reversed, that is, have the 
 warp to run from right to left, which will cause the filling to rim 
 up and down (see directions on the side of first sample of cloth.) 
 Hold the cloth between the thumb and forefinger of left hand, 
 Tavel and pull out some ten or more threads of the warp, or enough 
 to allow the ends of the filling threads to appear about three- 
 eighths of an inch above th'e remaining warp threads, so that they 
 will be free from each other, and can be easily separated ; ravel 
 and pull out some of the filling threads from the right hand end, 
 which gives you a good chance to get hold of the remaining warp 
 threads, so that they may be pulled up and loosened one at a time, 
 and easily traced as they pass over or under the filling threads. 
 Each one of the remaining warp threads used in drafting will deter- 
 mine one harness motion, showing the several changes of the har- 
 ness upon which that thread was drawn in the pattern. And 
 each filling thread as it passes over and under that warp thread,
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 directs you how to bnild the chain for that one harness; whether 
 you arc to put on the bolts, a roller, or a tube, so that you will 
 observe that each filling thread as it passes over and under each 
 warp thread, denotes either a roller or a, tube on the chain bolts, 
 consequently it is very essential that you should be caivful and 
 take and use each warp and filling thread in rotation, as they 
 appear in the pattern from Avhich you are drafting. I will suppose 
 an example, and Diagram No. 4. will explain the example, and 
 show the manner of writing the risers and sinkers as mentioned. 
 After all is ready, proceed as follows: Loosen the first remain- 
 ing warp thread a little, not enough to clear it from the ends of 
 the filling threads, but enough for the eye to detect which of the 
 filling threads pass over and under it. Observe the first filling 
 thread at the right hand; does it pass over or under the' warp 
 thread? Suppose it to pass under the warp thread, then we will 
 mark down one riser, (and in marking down risers and sinkers, 
 commence at the right hand and pass to the left, same as when 
 drafting from the cloth), as that denotes the warp thread was up, 
 when the filling thread passed it, or it would not be found under 
 thejvarp thread,"aud indicates that we want a roller on that chain 
 boll, and we will make a little mark in that square to indicate a 
 roller. To dispose of this filling thread which we have used, and 
 which passed under the warp, turn the thread over back and 
 press it between the cloth and forefinger, and retain it there till 
 you have used the Avarp thread which alloAVS the next or 2d fill- 
 ing thread all clear to observe. And AVC Avill suppose the"' 3d fill- 
 ing thread to pass over the same warp thread, then we will call 
 that a sinker, as the Avarp thread in this change was depressed to 
 alloAv the filling thread to pass over it, and indicates a tube on 
 the second bolt, and Ave Avill leave the 2d square on the same 
 line and directly to the left of the riser a blank, which indicates 
 a tube. To dispose of this filling thread which we have used, and 
 which passed over the warp, turn the end over front and press it 
 between the cloth and thumb and retain it same as first filling 
 thread, Avhich alloAVS the next or third filling thread all clear to 
 observe. 
 
 Suppose the 3d filling thread to pass under the same Avarp 
 thread, then mark another riser same as for the first, and in 
 the next square directly to the left of the 2d, indicating a roller,
 
 10 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 and put the thread over back same as first. Suppose the next or 
 4th filling thread to pass over the- warp same as the 3d, we will 
 call this another sinker, indicating a tube on the 4th bolt. Sup- 
 pose our next three filling threads 5, 6 and 7, to pass under the 
 warp thread successively, we will then write down three risers suc- 
 cessively, indicating a roller upon each of the three bolts 5, 6 
 and 7 respectively. Suppose our next three filling threads 8, 9 
 and 10, to each pass over that warp thread successively, we will 
 then write three sinkers successively; we have now one harness 
 motion, (and which we will suppose to be one pattern for one har- 
 ness) which will have 10 changes; one change" for each filling 
 thread (or bolt), thus showing the changes of one warp thread 
 for the 10 filling threads we have used. 
 
 DIAGRAM No. 4 represents the order in which the filling threads 
 appear as per the example just given, and the method for writing 
 the draftings as they are taken from a piece of cloth when draft- 
 ing. Commence at the right hand where we commenced mark- 
 ing down, and read to the left as follows: 1 riser, 1 sinker; 1 
 riser, 1 sinker; 3 risers, 3 sinkers, and represents the motion of 
 one harness which carried the warp thread we have used in the 
 example as follows : (turn the book sideways, the top towards the 
 right hand), once up, once clown ; once up, once down ; three 
 times up, three times down ; and if we had only one harness ope- 
 rating, and a chain was built from Diag. No. 4, it would work 
 the harness in that order. 
 
 DTAP No 4 s a> * t -*' e '* e9 *~ 
 
 Warp Thread. 
 
 Supposing we had drafted far enough to be sure we had all 
 the chain bolts required, we would then pull out the warp thread 
 we had used and also straighten up the ends of the filling threads, 
 and proceed with the next warp thread same as with the previous 
 thread, and mark down the draftings of each of the succeed- 
 . ing warp and filling threads in rotation, and be sure and have the 
 filling threads Nos. 1, 2, 3, &c., to 10, appear in the squares directly 
 under where they appeared when usiug the first warp thread. By 
 refering to Diagrams 1 and 2, you will observe how each filling 
 thread passes from top to bottom in a straight line, and how each 
 warp thread passes in a straight line from right to left.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 11 
 
 The foregoing example will be sufficient for the learner to un- 
 derstand the method of drafting and the requirements ; and for 
 practicing purposes, cut off from the bottom of the first sample 
 of cloth about one inch, holding the cloth sideways as directed, 
 and commence with the upper right hand corner as directed, and 
 draft from the doeskin first, and use 15 filling threads and 10 
 warp threads, and if you draft each thread right, the design will 
 correspond with Diagram No. 1. Should you commence to draft 
 with a different filling thread than was used for diagram draft, your 
 design will commence reading from the right a little differently, 
 but by passing towards the left you will find a beginning which 
 will correspond with the diagram; or, if you should commence 
 with a different w r arp thread it will read differently from the top 
 of your design; but by passing towards the bottom you will find 
 a beginning which will correspond with the diagram. The best 
 plan would be for yon to follow the warp thread which you happen 
 to commence with towards the left, till you find two filling threads 
 which pass under the warp thread, and the next or third filling 
 to pass over the warp thread, and ravel out the preceeding filling 
 threads, so as to commence to draft with those filling threads 
 which passed under the warp; in that case your design would 
 read the same as Diagram No. 1, and you would understand the 
 idea much better. But providing your draftings were correct, it 
 would not make any difference where or with what warp or filling 
 thread you commenced, as it would weave the doeskin. You will 
 also observe after you have drafted to the 6th filling thread, that 
 it repeats "the^ thread which you commenced with and so on. Also 
 the 6th warp thread will repeat the first; the 7th, the 2d; and so 
 on, providing you have made no mistakes; and that tells you 
 that 5 warp and 5 filling threads will make a pattern of the doe- 
 skin, and consequently would make the goods same as the sample. 
 And that is the way designers usually know when they have draft- 
 ed a pattern by the repetition of the harness and bolts, unless we 
 are dealing with a cross draw ; and when we have an idea we are 
 dealing with them, w T e keep drafting till there is a repetition 
 which must come sometime. And if we have a cross draw to 
 work out, we then commence to work it out as will be explained 
 hereafter. Experience enables a person to judge very correctly 
 whether a pattern is a cross draw or an ordinary weave.
 
 12 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 1. 
 
 DIAGRAM No. 1 represents the chain for operating the harness 
 to produce the doeskin weave of the sample of cloth. Observe it 
 is separated into two patterns. It is a 5 harness weave, and 5 
 bolts will make it; but diagram represents 5 harness, 10 bolts; 
 the 2d 5 bolts repeat the first 5, and thus it effects no change in 
 the cloth. The same could be extended to 50 or more bolts in 
 length, providing that each set of 5 bolts repeated the 5 preced- 
 ing. 10 bolts are represented in the diagram, because the herring- 
 bone requires 10 bolts for each pattern ; and as the two weaves 
 are combined, we must have the same number of bolts for each 
 weave of the combination. Some cloths are made by combining 
 several weaves; and when combining weaves we are not usually 
 restricted to any definite number of harness, for each weave of the 
 combination; but they must be combined so as to have the 
 chain work for each weave of the combination of the same num- 
 ber of bolts; this can be arranged sometimes by the drawing of 
 the threads into the harness, (which is explained under that head.) 
 
 By holding the book sideways, the top towards the right hand, 
 and looking at the diagram, the view then represents the chain 
 as it appears when hanging on the chain cylinder of a loom, with 
 chain work on the right hand end, and as you stand at the front 
 of the loom, the 
 
 1st bolt which is the bottom, says harness 1, 2 and 3 rise, 4 sinks, and 5 rise. 
 3d bolt " " " " "1 rise, 2 sinks, 8, 4 and 5 rise. 
 
 3d bolt " " " " " 1, 2, 3 and 4 rise, and 5 sinks. 
 
 4th bolt " "1 and 2 rise, 3 sinks, 4 and 5 rise. 
 
 5th bolt " " " "1 sink, 2, 3, 4 and 5 rise. 
 
 And the next 5 repeat the above, and so on as the chain is 
 revolved. Each bolt represents one pick of filling, and thus each 
 bolt shows how the filling passes over and under the warp in one 
 pattern. In this weave, 4 threads are up to one down in each 
 change; consequently, four-fifths of the filling is upon the back 
 at nil times. This is the original, and in fact is the only doeskin 
 weave f there are so called, 6, 8, 10, 11 & 12 harness doeskins ; in 
 the 12 harness doeskins there is still more filling upon the back, 
 and the twill is longer than for the other doeskins; but the 5 liar- 
 ness is the weave usually applied to make the black doeskins,
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 13 
 
 made by the Slaters, of Webster, Mass., and others who have the 
 reputation of- making the best. 
 
 Why I commence to read the changes at the bottom and read 
 up, is because the chain revolves towards you when in motion; 
 and if the ends were linked together and the bottom bolt placed 
 to commence the first harness motion, the second bolt would make 
 the next and so on. You also observe this and all other dia- 
 grams, have marked under them the word " front ;" that word 
 denotes that the.diagrams are intended to represent the harness of 
 the looms as they appear when standing to the front of the 
 loom, facing the harness ; and by holding the book sideways, the 
 diagrams represent the chain as it hangs upon the cylinder when 
 operating the harness; and to hang the doeskin chain on a loom 
 which carries the chain on the right hand end as you stand to the 
 front, put the left hand end over the cylinder; and to hang the 
 same chain on a loom which carries the chain on the left hand 
 end as you stand to front, put the right hand end of the chain 
 over the cylinder, turning the chain completely over, bottom side 
 up with the ends reversed. These instructions are for making a 
 right twill tame as the cloth sample ; for a left twill hang them the 
 reverse. But should you hang the chain for any pattern, and 
 they do not work as wanted, it is a very easy matter to change 
 the ends of the chain and make them work right. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF DIAGEAM No. 2. 
 
 DIAGRAM No. 2 represents the chain for operating the harness 
 to produce the herringbone weave of the sample of cloth with the 
 two threads of orange and black twist, which pass through its cen- 
 tre: and it now represents 22 harness, 10 bolts, and shows just 
 how many harness and how large the chain would have to be 
 built, providing there was no method of cross drawmg. When 
 the learner has drafted several patterns of the doeskin weave, and 
 understands how the threads run and how to write them corl'ect- 
 ly, then commence to draft the herringbone, and use about 20 fill- 
 ing threads making your design of 20 bolts, and 22 warp threads 
 will be required to complete it; 20 threads for the herringbone, 
 and 2 threads for the orange and black twist. You will notice in 
 your drafting, that the 2 orange and twist threads draft the same
 
 14 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 as two of the threads in the doeskin weave, which tells you they 
 were used on the doeskin harness and not on the -herringbone. 
 After drafting the herringbone, if done correctly, it will corre- 
 spond with Diagram No. 2 ; and to understand more easily, you 
 had better erase those parts which do not correspond with the dia- 
 gram ; say erase from the right towards the left till the top thread 
 or harness reads 5 risers, same as design, and providing you have 
 drafted correctly, the balance of your design will correspond with 
 the diagram. 
 
 By holding the book sideways, the top towards the right hand, 
 the view then represents the chain as it would appear upon the 
 loom, providing we could not cross draw it; it appears to be ope- 
 rating 22 harness, and with the 5 harness doeskin combined, we 
 should have 27 harness, and as we have no 27 harness looms, we 
 mast manage to cross draw some way to make some of the har- 
 ness carry some extra threads, and thus bring the harness into 
 closer quarters. 
 
 . You will observe there are several repetitions in the diagram. 
 The repetitions are divided and called setts ; 1st set, 2d set, and 
 so on to the 4th set; the second set of 5 warp threads or 5 har- 
 ness Nos. 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10, repeat the first set Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 ; 
 the llth and 12th harness are the same as Nos. 4 and 5 of the doe- 
 skin set; the 3d set, Nos. 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, are also a repeti- 
 tion of set No. 1, only they seem to run backwards ; also the 4th 
 set, Nos. 18, 19, 20, 21 and 22 repeat the 1st set, and run the same 
 as the 3d set ; at all events, sets Nos. 2, 3 and 4 all repeat the first 
 set. And now the idea is proposed to reduce the 22 harness, so 
 that we can dispose of a part of the harness and still make the 
 cloth, and now to carry out the proposed idea. 
 
 22 HARNESS CROSS DRAWN AND REDUCED TO 
 5 HARNESS. 
 
 See Diagram, No. 2, " C. D." Commence with the bottom har- 
 ness called No. 1, the next No. 2, next No. 3, next No. 4, next 
 No. 5. I will say draw the first thread intended for herringbone 
 on first harness, 2d thread on 2d harness, 3d thread on 3d har- 
 ness, 4th thread on 4th harness, 5th thread on 5th harness, and 
 which is straight drawing; we find harness No. C, the same as 
 harness No. 1 ; we will come back and put thread No. 6, on that 
 harness.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 15 
 
 Har. No. 7, same as harness No. 2, we will put 7th thread on that harness. 
 Har. No. 8, same as harness No. 3, we will put 8th thread on that harness. 
 Har. No. 9, same as harness No. 4, we will put 9th thread on that harness. 
 Har. No. 10, same as harness No. 5, we will put 10th thread on that harness. 
 
 Here we find a little change ; Nos. 11 and 12 are not similar to 
 any of the herringbone harness. But we see in the doeskin set,, 
 two harness which are just like them and which are Nos. 4 and 5 ; 
 so that those two threads may be used on those two harness, when 
 we draw them into the harness, and proceed with No. 13, which 
 belongs to the herringbone. 
 
 13 same as Harness No. 5, and we will put the 13th Thread on that harness. 
 
 14 same as Harness No. 4, and we will put the 14th Thread on that harness. 
 
 15 same as Harness No. 3, and we will put the loth Thread on that harness. 
 
 16 same as Harness No. 2, and we will put the 16th Thread on that harness. 
 
 17 same as Harness No. 1, and we will put the 17th Thread on that harness. 
 
 18 same as Harness No. 5, and we will put the 18th Thread on that harness. 
 
 19 same as Harness No. 4, and we will put the 19th Thread on that harness. 
 
 20 same as Harness No. 3, and we will put the 20th Thread on that harness. 
 
 21 same as Harness No. 2, and we will put the 21st Thread on that harness. 
 
 22 same as Harness No. 1, and we will put the 22d Thread on that harness. 
 
 What are the conclusions? Well, we have disposed of the 22 
 threads, and which represented 22 harness by a cross draw, so that 
 5 harness will make the same herringbone stripe which 20 harness 
 would make, and combined with the 5 harness doeskin for the 
 plain weave, gives only 10 harness to be operated to make the 
 cloth. By refer! ng to the diagram, it shows for itself how the 
 threads are to be drawn into the harness, which are 5 threads 
 straight through twice, making 10 threads for one side^of the 
 stripe ; then the 2 threads of orange and black twist are drawn 
 into the doeskin harness ; then the next 10 threads of the stripe 
 are drawn backwards, 5 threads twice through, and the drawing 
 in of the herringbone is accomplished. Then draw in those 
 threads intended for the doeskin on the doeskin set straight 
 through. 
 
 We could have commenced with the 4th set and cross draAvn 
 as well as first set. Also any one of the 4 sets can be used, and 
 the same drawing of forward and back, would make the stripe. 
 In this case the first set has been used, but the chain of the first 
 set would make a left twill, while the doeskin chain represents 
 a right twill, so that we will use the chain of the 4th set, and
 
 16 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 thus have the twill for both run the same way, so that sets Nos. 
 1, 2 and 3 may be cancelled. Set No. 4, you observe is the same 
 as set No. 1, turned over, not end for end, but side for side directly 
 over. And that suggests an idea, that in case a chain should be 
 attached to make a right twill, and it should be wrong and make 
 a left twill, by turning it over we get the right twill. To make 
 the stripe in the sample, the 4th set was used same as Diagram 
 No. 3. Also the doeskin set was used in front, as the doeskin is 
 to be the principal or ground weave of the combination, contain- 
 ing nearly four-fifths of the warp threads. 
 
 REMARKS ON HERRINGBONE TWILLS, TWISTS, &c. 
 
 You will notice the herringbone could not be made with 5 bolts 
 as a coarser twill is wanted than 5 bolts could make. . The width 
 of the twill to herringbone can be regulated by the number of 
 threads used, by using the same set as is represented by Diagram 
 No. 3, and use only 10 threads; say 5 threads over and 5 back, 
 the width of the stripe, would be less than in cloth sample. By 
 drawing 15 threads over, (5 threads 3 times), and 15 threads back, 
 the width would be increased. A whole piece of 27 or more 
 inches wide, could be made into one herringbone with the point 
 in the center of the cloth, by drawing the first one-half of the 
 warp threads straight through, and the other one-half backwards 
 through. Another cross draw could be made so that the herring- 
 bone and doeskin could both be made on the doeskin set of 5 
 harness, in which case the doeskin chain would weave both at the 
 same time. But such a cross draw would make the weaving diffi- 
 cult, and in case of threads breaking, and wrong drawings by the 
 weaver, we should be apt to have imperfections. Also, there 
 would be too many threads crowded upon one harness ; the more 
 simple the weaving the better, as with complicated weaves the 
 weavers are apt to get threads mixed by wrong drawings when 
 the warp breaks badly, and thus spoil our patterns. Again, the 
 more simple the weaving, (other things favorable), the more yards 
 fromthe looms ; and the more yards from the looms, the less will 
 be the average cost per yard for labor and manufacturing gene- 
 rally.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 17 
 
 Herringbones ca*n be made upon 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9 or more harness, 
 the number of harness depend somewhat upon the number of 
 threads wanted, but a 5 or 10 harness make about the best size. 
 
 We have another weave which may justly be called related to 
 the herringbone, and wfcich is called a Feather, and which require 
 the threads to be drawn forward and backward through the har- 
 ness, the same as for herringbones ; and they may be made upon 
 various setts of harness, the number of harness to be used, usually 
 depend upon the size of the feather wanted ; also the width and 
 size of the feather, depends upon the number of threads used upon 
 each side of the point. 
 
 There are two twills called right twill and left twill, and the 
 herringbone stripe in the cloth sample will answer for an illustra- 
 tion. The left side of the stripe is a left twill ; the twill run- 
 ning from right off to the left; while the right side is aright 
 twill, the twill running from left off to the. right, and is the same 
 as the doeskin weaving. For further remarks upon twists and 
 twills, see Part Second, Spinning Department. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 3. 
 
 DIAGRAM No. 3, represents the chain for operating the harness, 
 to produce the herringbone stripe, after it has been cross drawn 
 and reduced to 5 harness ; and is the same as tlie 4th set of Dia- 
 gram No. 2, which set was used to make the cloth of page 5. By 
 writing a copy of Diagrams Nos. 1 and 3, with Diagram No. 1, at 
 the front, the design then represents an exact copy of the design 
 from which the chain was built to weave the cloth, (Doeskin and 
 Herringbone stripe.) And also represents the harness as they ap- 
 pear in the loom (while weaving), as you stand at the front. 
 
 QUESTIONS TO BE CONSIDERED IN ORIGINATING PATTERNS, AS 
 WELL AS MAKING GOODS FROM A SAMPLE. 
 
 The cloth sample on page 5, is employed to explain more clearly, 
 the ideas to be obtained from some of the answers to the follow- 
 ing questions : 
 
 Question 1. What weave is the sample, or if a combination 
 of weaves, what are they ?
 
 18 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 Ques. 2. How many threads in the warp,' and what size of 
 yarn, and how are the colors arranged ? 
 
 Ques. 3. How many threads per inch of tilling, what size of 
 yarn, and how are the colors arranged ? 
 
 Ques. 4. If composed of patterns how many in the piece, and 
 divide the patterns to spool and dress correctly? 
 
 Ques. 5. What weight per yard is the sample, and Avhat weight 
 is wanted ? 
 
 Ques. 6. Is the cloth to be of one color or shade, or a mixture, 
 or a combination ? 
 
 Ques. 1. What grade of goods does the sample appear to be, 
 or what grade is required ? 
 
 Ques. 8. Propose the stock for the goods. 
 
 Ques. 9. Form an estimate of what will be the cost per yard 
 if made of the proposed stock. 
 
 Ques. 10. Make out the spooling and dressing draft. 
 
 Ques. 11. Make out the number of harness required, and the 
 heddles required for each harness, and the size of the reed. 
 
 Ques. 12. Make out the draft for drawing the threads into the 
 harness, the reed, and build the harness chain. 
 
 Ques. 13. Make out a memorandum of the cost of one yard 
 of the goods for stock, labor, manufacturing, &c., &c. (See Part 
 Second, estimating cost of goods.) 
 
 Answer to Question 1st. Suppose the goods are to be made an 
 exact copy of the sample on page 5. By drafting the sample, two 
 weaves are found to be combined, which are a doeskin (for the 
 ground weave), with a herringbone stripe. 
 
 NOTE. Tliwe are many practical designers who can form an 
 opinion at a glance, of the probable weave of a piece of cloth. But 
 those persons usually draft a few threads, to be sure they are cor- 
 cect. There are but a few designers, who are as positive of their 
 knowledge and sound judgment, as was a manufacturer, (who is 
 well known to the author), who had partially engaged a designer 
 by correspondence ; and when Mr. Designer appeared at his off- 
 fice the manufacturer took some samples of cloth from' his pocket, 
 and said : " Can you tell me of what weave these samples are ?" 
 "I think I can," said Mr. Designer. "I should wish to draft a
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 19 
 
 few threads from one of them to make a positive reply." "Oh," 
 
 said Mr. Manufacturer, "any d d fool can draft a pattern, I 
 
 want a man who knows all abont it without having to draft the 
 patterns." Mr. Designer bids him "good morning, sir," not wish- 
 ing any further acquaintance with the Manufacturer, or the expec- 
 ted position. The question of weaves is then decided, and we 
 pass along to the 
 
 Answer to Question 2d. To ascertain the number of threads 
 in the warp by a sample, measure off one inch across the warp 
 threads, and count the threads found in one inch ; and if making 
 f wide goods, say 27 inches wide when finished, multiply the 
 threads found in one inch, by the width 27 inches, or by any 
 other width wanted. Thus 70 threads per inch, and 27 inches 
 wide, gives 1890 threads, which I will call even 1900 threads. 
 
 By an examination of the warp threads, they are found to be not 
 far from four runs fine, and well twisted, and they are all single, 
 excepting the few threads of orange and black twist. The yarn 
 appears to be somewhat coarser than four runs, but it is necessary 
 to allow a little for the coarseness, as our sample is finished goods, 
 and the yarn for a finished piece is somewhat coarser than before 
 it is finished. 
 
 As the fulling and scouring processes full the goods a little and 
 increase the size of the yarns somewhat, thus changing the appear- 
 ance of them. Also goods which are flocked heavily, the yarn 
 will appear somewhat coarser, so that an accurate decision of the 
 size of a yarn from a finished cloth sample cannot be obtained. 
 But for the size of yarn to use, we shall have to be governed some- 
 what by the grade of goods usually made, that is, the number of 
 threads we usually put in our warps. Also the qualities of stock 
 usually used; also what weight the goods may be wanted when 
 finished; also what weave is wanted, as if we were to try to imi- 
 tate a cloth which had yarn of some nine runs fine, we should 
 not try to make a yarn equally as fine of 60 pr. ct. 4th quality 
 fleece mixed with 40 pr. ct. coarse, short, shoddy; but we might 
 be able to make a fair imitation of colors, weave, and the gene- 
 ral style of the sample from a coarser stock. If we were intend- 
 ing to make a good Tricot, Broadcloth, or Doeskin, a good warp 
 would be required, with plenty of threads in it, in which case we
 
 20 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 should want the size of yarn finer in proportion to the number 
 of threads to be used. 
 
 The arrangement of the colors can be ascertained by counting 
 each warp thread, and noting the colors as they appear in a pat- 
 tern. The sample of cloth on page 5th, is a shaded stripe in the 
 warp of the doeskin weaving, and by counting the threads and 
 noting each color in the respective order in which they appear 
 from the point of one herringbone across to the other, the shad- 
 ing can be traced, so that a copy might be made which would be 
 a perfect imitation ; should you trace out the shading to prove 
 you are correct, by referring to a subsequent page, the order in 
 which the threads are used in the sample is printed. 
 
 Answer to Question 3d. To ascertain the number of threads 
 of filling in a given inch, measure off one inch across the filling, 
 and count the number of threads per inch, and you have the num- 
 ber of threads required; (the usual expression would be the num- 
 ber of picks to the inch.) And in making calculations for size of 
 yarn for filling, we shall have to be governed same as for making 
 warp calculations, and by the number of picks we wish to put in 
 to regulate the firmness ; the less picks put in, the more yards 
 from looms, at a less cost for weaving and general expense of 
 manufacturing. But picks enough should be put in to make a 
 firm cloth, which will handle well when finished, and not be 
 sleazy and stretchy. Goods are generally handled in market by 
 men of practice and good judgment; and there are other and 
 better means to employ for practicing deception, than to leave 
 out too many picks, or too many warp threads. Sometimes infe- 
 rior stock in goods is partially overlooked, when made to handle 
 firm and strong. The arrangement of the colors can be ascer- 
 tained? by an examination of the filling threads. Usually, there 
 are not so many changes, or such a variety of colors in the filling 
 as in the warp. Sometimes the filling is of the shaded pattern, 
 same as the warp of the sample on page 5, where a shaded plaid 
 is wanted ; and in that case, a filling chain is required to operate 
 the shuttles, or the box motion, and such a chain would require 
 the reverse motion ; and some of the various tappet sections which 
 are used with the Crompton loom, as for instance, the tappet 
 section, No. 27, plate 9, Crompton's illustrated catalogue of looms,
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 21 
 
 with a reverse motion, might be made to make almost any shad- 
 ing, and which works of itself without any reverse, 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2, 
 1, respectively. When there is no shading in the filling, the man- 
 ner in which the filling should be introduced, may be determined 
 by drafting the pattern from a piece, and noting how each pick 
 was introduced. The bolts will show whether it predominates 
 upon the face or back. (See cloth samples and their respective 
 designs.) 
 
 Answer to Question 4. Should our cloth be what is termed a 
 plain piece of only one color, it would not be necessary to men- 
 tion about patterns, and would only be necessary to make out 
 spooling and dressing draft, and only mention the number of sec- 
 tions to be dressed, and number of threads in a section. Should 
 the cloth contain patterns, same as the sample on page 5, then 
 get the measure of one pattern, say from the inside of one orange 
 twist thread to the outside of the other, or from one green stripe 
 across to the other; and as per the sample, the measure is found 
 to be about 1^ Jnches for a pattern ; divide the width the goods 
 are to be wfien finished, by the size of one pattern, say for a (f ) 
 Avide, (27 inches), divided by 1^ inches, the quotient is about 25; 
 thus the piece was made and contained 25 patterns. The sections 
 to be employed in the warp, will be determined by the number of 
 threads (as a general rule), we want in the warp, and the sizes of 
 the reed we have for the dresser, and the number of patterns 
 wanted in the goods. We have previously ascertained that the 
 warp of the sample contained 1900 threads, and that the finest 
 reed for the dresser will not carry over 500 threads for a section, so 
 that we cannot have over 500 threads in a section. We have coarser 
 reeds which will carry less threads for a section, and also less 
 threads may be used in the 500 reed. Now, if the patterns in the 
 goods wei'e only 20, we could dress in 4 sections by using 475 
 threads in a section, and 5 patterns in a section ; in this case 25 
 patterns are wanted, and the 25 patterns cannot be divided evenly 
 by 4, so that it cannot be dressed in 4 sections and have the pat- 
 terns come evenly; but the 25 patterns can be divided by 5, so 
 that the warp may be dressed in 5 sections of 380 threads in a 
 section' (giving us the 1900 threads for the warp), and gives us 
 the 5 patterns in each section, with 76 threads for a pattern. 76 
 threads multiplied by 5 patterns, gives 380 threads in a section;
 
 22 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 and 5 sections gives 1900 threads for warp. It is not always very 
 necessary to have the threads come so even ; a few threads may 
 sometimes be dropped from one pattern and added to another, 
 and no material change can be seen. 
 
 Ansiver to Question 5th. Experience in handling goods enables 
 a person to judge"very nearly the probable weight per yard of a 
 piece of goods. But when the number of threads in the warp is 
 known, and the size of the threads, and the number of threads per 
 inch of filling, and the size of the threads, very close calculations 
 of the weight from the loom can be made. For finished weights, 
 further and different calculations will be required. And judg- 
 ment will be required, as to the fulling and probable quantity of 
 flocks applied, though some goods are not flocked, and (the back 
 will usually show whether flocked or not), in that case, the calcu- 
 lations as presented in Part Second, Spinning Department, will 
 explain fully. 
 
 Answer to Question 6th. -Should we intend to make a plain 
 piece of goods, (that is all one color or shade), it would be an 
 easy matter to decide the coloring; or should a copy be desired 
 from a pattern which contained only a feAV colors or shades, it 
 would then be an easy matter to decide the coloring and arrang- 
 ing. But suppose we had, or wanted to produce two or more 
 shades in our cloth, and those shades were produced by mixing 
 different shades or colors in certain proportions in the wool, then 
 there would be a chance to exercise your faculties in the system 
 and science of colors. Here the Apothecary scales will assist very 
 much in mixing and shading. (See remarks on mixtures. Spin- 
 ning department, Part 2d.) No table will answer for making mix- 
 tures generally speaking. As in order to have a table that would 
 answer, we should want samples of the colors, as mentioned in the 
 table. Some manufacturers never use any white wool; using it 
 either colored, stained, or in a mixture. 
 
 If a combination of colors or shades is required, as a general 
 rule, a dyer is the person to be referred to. To make a "happy 
 combination," requires a person with a faculty for discerning 
 colors, and who knows the results of placing one color or shade 
 nearly in contact with another. It is in short, the systematic 
 arrangement of colors, according to their natural order, that the
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 23 
 
 most perfect results are obtained. No other fault which can be 
 applied to a piece of cloth, will so far spoil its good impression 
 and favorable effect, as a poor combination, even if the colors are 
 bright. 
 
 Answer to Question 1th. Some idea of the gr^ide of goods may 
 be formed, by observing the number of threads in the warp and 
 filling, and by the size of those threads ; and whether those threads 
 are single fine stock, or double and twist, or three ply, &c. Also 
 by testing the strength of the yarn, whether it may be strong and 
 elastic, or weak and short. If many threads are found in a warp, 
 they will be apt to be fine ; and if fine, they must necessarily have 
 been made of fine stock. A coarse, large thread may be made of 
 fine stock, but the rule won't work both ways, as a fine thread 
 cannot be made of a very coarse stock. The same remarks will 
 apply to filling. If the tension of the thread is strong and elas- 
 tic, we would infer that good stock had been used, and that the 
 goods were not injured in the process of manufacturing. General- 
 ly the matter of deciding the grade of goods, is very easy to a per- 
 son who has had some experience in handling various grades. 
 Manufacturers generally make their goods a certain grade, i. e , 
 that generally use about a certain grade of stock, and get about a 
 certain price in market, so that when copying patterns govern 
 yourself accordingly. There are not many mills, if any, where 
 they make a good cloth and a poor cloth also, as an even grade 
 of goods has been found to be more profitable in a long run. A 
 well made fabric will usually show for itself, and good stock prop- 
 erly handled and manufactured will show for itself, and an inex- 
 perienced person will be able to perceive the fact. 
 
 Ansiver to Question 8th. A few remarks will be necessary 
 before a direct answer can be made to this question. 
 
 When proposing the stock for goods, it is expected that the 
 other expenses connected with the business are known, such as 
 labor, manufacturing and general expenses, i. e. the general aver- 
 age cost per yard. And in this case to explain and answer the 
 question so as to be fully understood, we will suppose that we 
 have been in business a while, and kept the necessary books, and 
 a close run of the business, and are enabled to estimate the aver-
 
 24 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 age cost per month, and consequently the average cost per yard 
 for all expenses of the business outside of the stock. 
 
 The cost per yard for stock we estimate, when any change has 
 been made in the stock, or when we are paying more or less for 
 stock generally used. Should we intend to use more colors in a 
 few pieces, or more costly colors, we must then add a little to the 
 cost of manufacturing; or if Ave put in more picks of filling, then 
 add a little more for labor per yard; and more picks will reduce 
 the production of yards from the looms, and a falling off in the 
 production will make a corresponding rise in the cost per yard 
 throughout the whole business. The expenses outside of the 
 stock is fully explained in part Second. (Estimating cost of goods, 
 &c.) 
 
 PROPOSED STOCK TO BE USED TO MAKE THE GOODS WE HAVE so 
 
 FAR BKEN CALCULATING AND DESIGNING. 
 
 By referring to the table of weights of warp and filling yarns, 
 Spinning Department, Part 2d, Ave find that a Avarp of 1900 ends 
 of four run yarn, Avill give for the first calculation, about 4 ozs. 
 per yard, and Avith the addition for take up in the process of weav- 
 ing, which Avill be about three-fourths of an ounce, Ave then have 
 5 ozs. per yard as the Aveight of the warp yarn, and there is to 
 be another addition to this weight for the alloAvance of Avaste 
 which Avill be made from the stock Avhile in the process of man- 
 ufacturing, and as the stock is pretty good, not much short stock, 
 the Avaste Avill not be much, but will add one-half an ounce to 
 each yard for Avaste. and Avhich will make a yard of the warp 6 ozs, 
 for calculating the cost of the stock ; and for the filling, the cloth 
 is to be slayed thirty-five inches Avide in the loom inside of lists, 
 and Avith the three-fourths of an inch on each side for lists, mak- 
 ing 1 inches, so that the cloth Avill be 36 inches Avide in the 
 loom, and Avith 40 picks per inch of filling, Ave get the folloAving, 
 36^x40=1460, and the filling which is to^be 2| runs fine, by refer- 
 ring to table of warp and filling yarns, AVC have 55 and eight- tenth 
 ozs. per yard for filling, and Avith an alloAvance for the take up 
 Avhich Avill not quite equal the warp, we Avill add two-tenths 
 Avhich will make 6 ozs. of filling stock per yard ; and as the fill- 
 ing is to be mixed AVOO! and waste, Avill allow more for Avaste in 
 process of manufacturing, and for which will alloAV one ounce,
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER, 
 
 25 
 
 making 7 ozs. to calculate as the filling weight of one yard to esti- 
 mate cost of stock; thus the weight of one yard from the loom 
 will be 1H ozs. and the weight of one yard for calculating the 
 cost, and the stock to be used will be 13 ozs. And the percentage 
 of filling to warp will be as follows k 
 
 Warp, 6 ozs. or 46 per cent, of the stock per yard. 
 Filling, 7 " " 54 
 
 Total, 13 ozs. or 100 per cent, proof. 
 
 To find the rate per cent, of stock of warp and filling contained 
 in one yard of cloth, the separate weights of each having been cal- 
 culated and knoiun. 
 
 RULE. Divide the weights of the warp and filling, each taken 
 separately, and expressed decimally by the sum of their weights, 
 the quotients will be their given rate per cent, of one yard. 
 
 EXAMPLE. The weight of warp yarn per yard is 6 ozs. 
 The weight of filling " " 7 " 
 
 13)6.00(46 per cent, of warp. 
 
 598 
 
 13 ozs. 
 
 13)7.00(54 per cent, of filling. 
 712 
 
 We find we have a little over 40 per cent, of warp and not quite 
 54 per cent, filling, a little fractional part only, and not enough 
 to use in calculations, so that if we were to use all one kind of 
 stock for both warp and filling we could determine very easily 
 how the proportions would read, in which case we could say take 
 46 Ibs. and 54 Ibs. of each 100 Ibs. used. 
 
 We will propose the stock as follows, and estimate about how 
 much will be the cost per yard : We will have little more than 
 one-half of the warp No. 4 Fleece, 
 
 Say 26 per. cent, the balance of the w r arp (the other one-half ) No. 4. Cal. 
 20 " we will have about one-third of the filling, No. 3 Fleece. 
 18 " " " " Extra Pulled. 
 
 18 " " " " Shoddy., 
 
 18 
 
 100 
 
 Now we wish to know what will be the relative proportion of 
 the weights of each of the qualities mentioned in the stock, to 
 each other, and to the whole weight of one yard.
 
 26 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 When a combination of stock is used in making a yard of cloth, 
 and the rate per cent, of each of the combinations is known, to find 
 the relative proportion of weight of each of the component parts of 
 the combination. 
 
 EULE. Multiply the total weight of one yard by the rate per 
 cent, of each of the component parts forming the combination, the 
 product will be the relative weights of that part of the combina- 
 tion taken. 
 
 EXAMPLE 26 per cent, is to be No. 4 Fleece. 
 Multiply 13 ozs. total weight of one yard, by the rate pr. ct. of the 
 component (26 per cent.) part taken, which is 26 per cent., and we 
 get 3.38 ozs. of the one yard is No. 4JFleece. 
 
 EXAMPLE 20 per cent, is to be No. 4 California. 
 Multiply 13 ozs., total weight of one yard, by the rate per cent, of 
 the component (20) part taken, which is 20 per cent., and we get 
 2.60 ozs. of the one yard is^No. 4 California. 
 
 3.38 ozs. No. 4 Fleece. 
 2.60 " 4Cal. 
 
 5.98 ozs. Warp. 
 
 Proceed with each of the component parts of the filling stock 
 as with the warp. We then have the stock of each of the combi- 
 nations for one yarn, reduced to ounces and fractional parts, so 
 that we can extend the price per ounce for our stock, and make 
 our estimates. The stock as proposed for one yard will appear as 
 follows when all carried : 
 
 Answer to Question Wi. Example. 
 
 g- j 26 pr. ct. or 3.38 ounces of 4th qual. Fleece, at 5c. per oz., 16.90 cents. 
 M 20 " " 2.60 " 4th " Cal. " 4 " 10.40 " 
 a ( 18 " " 2.34 " 3d " Fleece, " 5 " 11.60 " 
 | .{18 " "2.34 " Extra Pulled " 4 " 9.36 
 E ( 18 " " 2.34 " Shoddy, " H " 3.51 
 
 100 pr. ct. or 13. ounces proof. 51.77 cts. 
 
 The prices per ounce for the stock as carried out in the above 
 example, are to show the form of the statement, when the actual 
 price is known ; and shows that at those prices, the cost per yard 
 for the stock would foot up fifty-one cents and seventy-seven hun- 
 dredths, or about three quarters. And in proposing stock in this 
 manner, we have a chance after making estimate as above, to
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 27 
 
 sometimes reduce some of the qualities of wool, or work in a little 
 more shoddy, as you will observe that a reduction of even one- 
 half a cent per ounce makes an item for a company, where per- 
 haps the production of yards will foot np 1000 or more per day; 
 and most any practical manufacturer could tell at a glance (of the 
 proposed stock in example), whether it would work and make the 
 grade of goods for which it was proposed, or whether a little 
 cheaper stock might be worked in and still make good work and 
 good cloth. The prices per ounce as they appear in the above 
 statement, are the prices of clean stock, that is from the actual 
 cost of the wool after it has been scoured, and the exact per cent- 
 age of shrinkage obtained. 
 
 These calculations will be explained and carried still farther 
 hereafter, in Part Second. 
 
 Ansiver to Question 10th. To CALCULATE FOR SPOOLING AND 
 DRESSING. As before decided, we are to have 1900 threads in 
 the warp, and 25 patterns in the goods, which gives 76 threads 
 for each pattern. (Divide 1900 threads by 25), we have 20 drab 
 threads for each herringbone or pattern ; we have 2 green threads 
 in each pattern ; we have 2 orange and black twist threads in 
 each pattern ; the balance, or 52 threads we will call brown, and 
 makes the balance of one pattern. We then have the threads for 
 one pattern as follows : 
 
 20 threads Drab. 
 
 One pattern, e Twist . 
 
 52 " Brown. 
 
 Total, 76 threads. 
 
 We can now divide these threads and commence the pattern 
 next to the listings, as we may desire. We will now pass along 
 and calculate for Spooling. (Before we can decide spools, we 
 shall have to decide the sections, and we have already decided to 
 have five sections. 
 
 We have 2 green threads in each pattern, and 25 patterns in 
 the goods, making 50 threads of green as the total ; 20 drab threads 
 in each pattern, making 500 threads of drab as the total ; 2 orange 
 twist threads in a pattern, 50 threads total, and 52 brown threads 
 in each pattern, 1300 total. The total threads in the warp of 
 each color, are a follows :
 
 28 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 500 threads Drab. 
 50 " Green. 
 50 " Orange twist. 
 1300 " Brown. 
 
 Total, 1900 threads. 
 
 We will now determine the spools we shall want of each color 
 of yarn. We will calculate on 40 thread spools. 
 
 The 500 threads of drab we will divide by the number of sec- 
 tions, which are 5, making 100 threads for a section ; which 100 
 threads divided by the number of threads we put on a spool, which 
 are 40, and we have 2 spool?. 
 
 50 thds. Green, calculated as above, and we have J Spool, or 10 thds. 
 50 " Orange twist, " " " " 
 
 1300 " Brown, " " 6i " 
 
 The total spools and parts of spools for the several colors, will 
 appear as follows : 
 
 2 Spools and 20 threads of Drab. 
 
 " but 10 " " Green. 
 
 " but 10 " " Orange twist. 
 
 6 " and 20 " " Brown. 
 
 Total, 8 Spools and 60 threads, equal to 9 Spools. 
 
 PROOF. 1900 threads divided by 5 sections, gives 380 threads in each 
 section, divided by the threads put on each spool (40) gives 9i spools. 
 2 Spools might be saved in the above, by Spooling the 20 thds. of Drab, 
 
 and the 20 thds. of Brown, on the same Spool, together equals 1 Spool. 
 Spool the 10 tluls. of- Green, and the 10 thds. of Twist, on the same Spool, 
 
 together equals -J Spool. 
 
 The spools as above given, show that 9 will be required in the 
 dressers' rack, if the yarn is spooled in the order above given. But 
 the number of spools required for making the goods intended, 
 will depend entirely upon the number of yards of yarn wanted 
 in a warp, and the size of the yarn. 40,000 yards of one run yarn 
 would make more spools than the same yards of 10 run yarn, 
 because the coarse yarn would fill the spools so much more, as 
 there is such a great difference in their size and weight. 
 
 Suppose we wish to make a warp only, and we wish to have 10 
 cuts of 30 yards each, but will dress the cuts to contain 33 yards 
 each, as the take up in the process of weaving will shorten them, 
 so that they will come from 2 to 4 yards less when woven, than 
 when dressed. 10 cuts of 33 yards, equals 330 yards required in 
 the warp, and multiplied by the 5 sections, eqnals 1050 yards as
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 29 
 
 the yards to be pnt on each spool, or as the total yards of yarn 
 required. The 5 sections denote that we shall run off the yarn 
 from the spools in the dressing rack 5 times, and shall take 330 
 yards, the length of the required warp 5 times from one spool, 
 and thus the clock on the spooler will be set so as to put 1650 
 yards on a spool. The calculations will be obtained in the same 
 way for any number of warps of any length. 
 
 We must now decide how we intend the colors to be arranged, 
 for the purpose of producing the patterns in the goods. Should 
 we wish the orange twist threads to appear next to the listing, 
 we would commence to tie in the dresser with those threads. 
 Should we wish the herringbone to come next to the listing, we 
 would commence by tying in the drab threads. Should we wish 
 to have the patterns come the same as those in the first sample of 
 cloth, we would commence with a green thread, and thus there 
 would be a green thread next to the lists on each side. And we 
 will commence with one green thread next to the listing as fol- 
 lows: 
 
 1 thread of Green. 
 
 Brown. 
 
 Drab. 
 
 Orange twist. 
 
 Drab. 
 
 Brown. 
 
 Green. 
 
 76 threads in one pattern. 
 
 We will now give the summary of the Spooling and Dressing 
 to the person having charge, as follows : 
 
 SPOOLING AND DRESSING DRAFT FOR STYLE No. 1. 
 
 SPOOL 6 spools and 20 threads of brown single (lot 1) 2(50 threads. 
 2 " " 20 " drab " " 2 10Q 
 
 " "10 " green " " 3 10 " 
 
 " "10 " orange & blk. twist, 4 10 " 
 
 Threads in 1 Section, 380 
 Five Sections. 5 
 
 - 
 
 Total threads in the Warp, 1900 
 
 In some mills they have different sizes for guides to the spool- 
 ers, so that they can make spools with various threads on each 
 spool as may be wanted, and thus are enabled to make more even 
 spools. And supposing we had several guides, we could make 
 the spooling more even for the above, and save a little in cost of
 
 30 
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 spooling, and not have so many parts of spools. Spoolers would 
 have to exercise care and not tie on from the wrong bobbins. 
 
 SPOOL 5 Spools, 48 Guide of Brown, single (lot 1) 
 
 2 " 40 " -, Drab, " " 2 
 
 Brown, " 20 tluls. 1 
 Drab, " 20 " " 2 
 10 " " 3 
 
 Green, 
 
 Orange twist 10 " " 4 f 
 
 Threads in 1 Section, 
 
 240 threads. 
 
 80 " 
 
 40 " 
 
 380 
 
 Thus making even spools. The guides as mentioned above 
 indicate to the person having charge of the spooling, the threads 
 to put on a spool. Care must be taken when using guides of dif- 
 ferent sixes, to have them vibrate correctly, the smaller the guide 
 the more vibration required. But the spools should be wound so 
 as to have a small rib. Spools that are wound smooth and even, 
 the threads are apt to be overlapped, and will not wind off well 
 in dressing. A few threads may be added to patterns when being 
 dressed by winding them off from bobbins, and save spools or 
 parts sometimes. 
 
 Tie in the Dresser (providing there was no shading.) 
 1 thread, Green, single, 
 
 Brown, " 
 
 Drab, 
 
 Orange and Blk. Twist. 
 
 Drab, single, 
 
 Brown, " 
 
 Green, " J 
 
 76 Threads in a Pattern, 25 Patterns in the Warp. 
 The order in which the threads are tied in the dressing to make 
 the shading as per sample. No. 1. 
 
 1 Thd. of Green, then 1 Thd. of Slate Drab, 
 
 4 " Brown, 
 
 i 1 Pattern, 
 j Repeat 25 times. 
 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 1 
 
 30 . 
 
 Orange twist, 
 Brown, 
 
 Green, 
 and 
 
 1 Pattern. 
 
 gepeat 25 
 
 times. 
 
 I 
 
 . 46 equals 76 threads 1 pattern.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 31 
 
 Answer to Questions lltk and \Wi. We have decided in our 
 previous drafting, that 10 harness will be required to make the 
 goods same as sample, 5 harness for Herringbone and 5 harness 
 for Doeskin. 
 
 We will decide the number of Heddles to put on each shaft of 
 the harness, the 50 green, the 1300 brown and 50 threads of orange 
 twist are to be used on one set of 5 harness, the Doeskin ; the 500 
 threads drab are to be used on one set of 5 Harness for Herring- 
 bone. The Doeskin is all straight drawing, (that is) the threads 
 are drawn separately one in a heddle, one on each Harness one 
 after the other successively, so that we require the same number 
 of Heddles on each of the 5 Harness. Thus we have 1400 threads 
 to be used on 5 harness, gives us 280 for each harness, consequent- 
 ly we shall require 280 .Heddles on each shaft. We have 500 
 threads to be used on 5 Harness for the Herringbone, and these 
 we have found (from the cross drawing as before explained), are 
 to be drawn into the Heddles, 10 straight through, 5 twice over 
 same as Doeskin, and 10 backwards, 5 twice through, so that in 
 reality, one thread is used in each Heddle, and on each harness, 
 successively; consequently we will divide the 500 threads to be 
 used, by the 5 Harness to be used, and we get 100 as the number 
 of Heddles for each shaft of Herringbone. There are usually a 
 few extra heddles put on each shaft. 
 
 And we will make a Diagram for the number of Harness to be 
 used, number of Heddles for each Harness, and the manner in 
 which the^ threads are to be drawn in. 
 
 DIAGRAM _*? 100 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 100 I 
 TOO f Herrin gbone. 
 
 280 > Doeskin. 
 
 2 
 FRONT. 
 
 The figures 100 and 280, indicate the number of Heddles re- 
 quired for each harness for the Harness builder. Each horizon- 
 tal line indicating one Harness, the angular lines crossing them
 
 32 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 indicate the drawing of the threads into the harness. And when 
 running towards a right angle, indicate straight drawing. And 
 when running a left angle, indicate a back draw, same as right 
 hand side of Herringbone. The one who draws in would read 
 the above above as follows : 
 
 1 thread of green and 26 of brown, or 27 threads on the first 
 set of 5 harness, which is the doeskin straight through ; then 10 
 threads on the second set of 5 harness which is the herringbone, 
 (5 threads twice through ;) then 2 twist threads on the first or 
 doeskin set, p.itting them in the heddles next after where we left off 
 with the brown ; then 10 threads on the second set for the her- 
 ringbone, commencing with the back or 5th harness and draw 
 backwards 5 threads twice through, then the 20 threads of brown 
 and 1 thread of green on the doeskin set, commencing with the 
 next harness where we left off with the twist threads, and we have 
 one pattern of 76 threads drawn into the heddles and harness cor- 
 rectly, to be repeated till all are drawn in. By refering to dia- 
 gram 5, it will be easily seen that the two twist threads are to 
 pass between the points of the herringbone, (as the doeskin set is 
 in front), which are separated a little. 
 
 The same style diagram would answer, supposing we were to 
 use more harness and cross draw and take different harness ; it 
 will be found more safe to make a diagram of similar design, when 
 any cross drawing or skipping is required, so that mistakes may 
 be avoided. In this case, each harness of the doeskin works 
 alike, so that by drawing right along straight through one thread 
 in each heddle and on each shaft respectively, the weaving will 
 be right. 
 
 REEDING. 
 
 After the warp has been drawn into the heddles, we must then 
 draw it into a reed. Suppose we wish to put our warp of 1900 
 ends into a reed with 5 in each dent and wigh to set the warp in 
 the loom 35 inches wide. We will first divide the 1900 by the 
 5 threads per dent, and that quotient by the desired width, and 
 determine the reed required. 
 
 Threads in dent, 5)1900 ends in the warp. 
 Width in Loom, 35)380 dents required. 
 10 size of the reed.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 33 
 
 As there are no reeds made of such a size, and as it is almost a 
 11 reed \ve will say in a 11 reed, and will decide just how wide 
 the cloth will be iu the loom, providing we use a 11 reed. 
 
 Dents per 1 inch, 11)380 dents required. 
 
 34 T 6 T inches wide in the loom. 
 
 So that in a 11 reed the cloth would be over 34 inches, if we 
 would prefer to have it over 35 inches than under, by using a lOf 
 reed we should produce 35^ inches wide, or if in each inch of the 
 35 we should put in one of the dents 4 threads, we should get 35 
 threads in the whole width, with 5 in a dent would 'give 7 dents, 
 which with the 34 T \ will bring it to a little over 35 inches wide. 
 
 HARNESS CHAIN. 
 
 For building the harness chain, we will give a copy of the draft 
 as we found it in our drafting from the sample, and will be the 
 same us Diagrams 1 and 3 combined, (with the Diagram 1 to the 
 front), and we will make a copy upon design paper for the chain 
 builder, and be careful to avoid wrong copying ; put the word 
 " front'' under the Diagram as it should be (for a right or left 
 twill, &c.,) so that the builder may know how to hang his chain 
 on the right or left hand loom, as it may happen Give the boss 
 weaver instructions as to the picks wanted, the lot the filling was 
 made from, and be careful to notice whether the cloth is being 
 woven as ordered, and answers all purposes. Will propose 40 
 picks per inch of 2? run yarn, one shuttle woi-k,*and the summary 
 will read as follows : 
 
 Style No. 1, 5 Harness shaded striped Doeskin for ground 
 weave combined with a 5 harness herringbone stripe, 10 Bolts, 20 
 drab threads for the herringbone, 2 orange and black twist threads 
 pass through its center. 
 
 25 Patterns in the goods, Warp 1900 ends of 4 run single yarn, 
 (except 50 of twist), Filling 40 picks of 2| run single yarn, 5 
 threads in a dent in a 11 Eeed, 34 T 6 i inches wide in the loom, to 
 weigh about 114- ounces from loom.
 
 34 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 HINTS ON LAYING OUT STOCK, &c. 
 
 We will proceed to lay out the stock, putting in the same per- 
 centage of each quality, &c., as we have previously proposed. Say 
 lay out for about 40 pieces. We wish the cloth to come about 30 
 yards from looms, so that for dressing we will calculate on about 
 an average of 33 yards for each piece. The 3 yards difference is 
 caused by the taking up of the yarn in process of the weaving, as 
 taking in between the warp threads, some 40 or more threads of 
 filling to each inch used, there must be more or less taken up. 
 40 pieces of 33 yards each gives 1320 yards, as the total yards 
 required. With the usual calculations for taking up in process 
 of weaving, and the allowance for the waste of stock in process 
 of manufacturing, we have to use about 13 ounces for the weight 
 of 1 yard. 1320 yards at 13 ounces gives 17100 ounces 1074fts. 
 as the clean or actual pounds of stock required for the 40 pieces 
 of 33 yards each, and the several percentages of the different 
 qualities of wool with waste, were as follows: 
 
 w j 96 pr. ct. of 4th quality Fleece, 279ft>s. clean, 430 tbs. in the grease. 
 ' arp ' ( 20 pr. ct. of 4th quality Cal., 215" " 
 
 ( 18 pr. ct. of 3d quality Fleece, 198fr" " 
 Filling. 1 18 pr. ct. of Extra Pulled, 193" " 
 
 ( 18 pr. ct. of Waste, . . . 193" " 
 
 10741t)S. Proof. 
 
 We will fill in the pounds of stock of each of the above quali- 
 ties as follows : Total pounds required 1074, of which 26 per ct. 
 is 4th quality Fleece, and that percentage of the total pounds 
 must be the pounds w T hich will be required of that quality. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 1074R)s. 10741bs. 
 
 26 pr. ct. 20 pr. ct. 
 
 279ift>s. of 4th quality Fleece. 2151t>s. 4th quality Cal. 
 
 And so continue with the filling qualities, and we get the 
 pounds of each of the combinations of stock as above. 
 
 As said before, the pounds of stock of the several qualities as 
 filled in, are called clean stock calculations, so that if we had 
 those qualities already scoured and dry, we could commence and
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 35 
 
 take the several pounds as carried out. But we are to suppose as 
 is generally the case, that the wool part of the combination will 
 have, to be taken from the wool-room in the grease, and that we 
 shall have to make the calculations from what the probable shrink- 
 age of those qualities may be ; for the purpose of filling out the 
 stock statement, a supposition of the probable shrinkages of the 
 wool will be given. (The calculations for shrinkages will be 
 better understood, by carefully reading remarks under head of 
 "Remarks on Wool," Part Second.) We will say the 3d and 4th 
 qualities of the fleece wool averages 35 per cent, shrinkage, or loss 
 in scon ring, leaving Golbs. of clean wool to the lOOlbs. in the grease, 
 (see rule of wool shrinkage, Part Second,) so it will be necessary 
 to take of wool in the grease 430 Ibs. to get the 279ft>s. clean. The 
 California shrinks 45 per cent, and it will be necessary to take 
 390fos. in the grease, to get the 2151bs. clean. The 3d quality 
 fleece is of the same lot as the 4th quality in the warp, and shrinks 
 35 per cent, and we will take 29?lbs. in the grease, to get the 
 193fcs. clean. The Extra Pulled will shrink about 40 per cent, 
 and we will take 321ft>s. in the grease, to get the 1931bs. clean- 
 The 193ft>s. of Waste can be put in as it is, there being no shrink- 
 age. Supposing these shrinkages to be the actual rate, we should 
 only need to know the cost in the grease, and make out the cost 
 when clean, and reduce the calculations of the relative weights 
 of the several qualities, to the whole weight per yard in ounces and 
 fractional parts, as we observe the statement on page 23, answer 
 to Question 8, and fill in prices same as example, answer to 
 Question 9, page 26. 
 
 In Part Second we will form another example and make out the 
 total cost per yard for the stock, and all other expenses which 
 arise in the business, as they are made out by some of the First 
 Class Manufacturers.
 
 36 
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 DIAGRAMS FOR SAMPLES. 
 
 DIAGRAM FOR SAMPLE 
 No. 8. 
 
 44444 ' sth 
 
 444 4* 7th 
 
 4. 4444 < 
 
 4444 4444 5tli 
 
 44 4444 44 H 
 4444 4444 
 
 4444 444 
 
 
 No. 
 
 :,/ 
 
 "~44 
 F. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 > 4444 
 
 >44 44 
 
 i 
 
 F. 
 
 No. S. 
 4 444 
 44 44 
 
 444 4 
 
 444I]n4 TFace. 
 
 444 4 T " 
 
 II S Back. 
 
 4444 TFace. 
 
 nan**a s Back. 
 
 F. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 4 4444 
 
 4 
 
 * 
 
 4 ' S 
 
 No. (.. 
 
 444 
 
 44 4 
 
 4 4 
 
 F. 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 SSSTSS8TSSSTSSST 
 ***U4444444 4444 T Face 
 4 44 4 44 S Back. 
 
 44 4444444 44444 s Face. 
 4 44 4 44 s nark. 
 
 4444444 4444444 T Face 
 44 4 44 4 * l'..'n-k 
 
 >4444 4444444 4 SFm-r. 
 4 44 4 S Back. 
 
 No. 12. 
 STSTSTSTSTST 
 
 4 444 444 44 u'ik. &'w1iiic TV 
 
 44 44 IJlii.'. 
 
 >4 444 444 V.'llow Twi.M. 
 
 4 44 B. 
 
 444 444 44 T. 
 
 4 
 444 444 
 
 444 444 44 
 4 44 4 
 444 444 444 
 
 1!. 

 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 37 
 
 EXPLANATIONS OF THE CLOTH SAMPLES AND THEIR RESPECTIVE 
 DESIGNS. 
 
 NOTE. As has been previously mentioned, the bottom line is 
 to be the first harness, reading No. 1, 2, &c., from the front to 
 the top, and the bolts rim from right to left, the first bolt at 
 the right is No. 1, the next No. 2, and so on. When holding the 
 book as when reading, the designs represent the harness in a 
 loom when you are standing at the front of it; by holding the 
 book sideways, the top towards the right, the view then repre- 
 sents the chain when attached to the loom. If the motions and 
 changes of a loom are well understood (as they ought to be by a 
 designer), by a little practice in the art of drafting and designing, 
 a person will soon become as familiar with the risers and sinkers, 
 and the respective patterns they will produce, as the musician is 
 familiar with the notes of a piece of sheet music, and knows what 
 tune is produced by them. 
 
 SAMPLE AND DESIGN Nos. 1/2. Represents a combination weav- 
 ing of a J 5 harness Doeskin, and a 5 harness Cord. 10 bolts are 
 used for weaving the Doeskin, because 10 bolts are required to 
 make the cord of such a large twill ; 10 threads are used to pro- 
 duce the cord, 5 threads straight through twice. By drawing the 
 threads backwards, the same design would make a right twill, the 
 same drawing (backward) would make the Doeskin a left twill, 
 and will apply the same to all tAvills. Hundreds of styles maybe 
 produced with a doeskin weave for ground Avork, by combining 
 different colors and shades of Cords, Herringbones, Feathers, 
 Furrows, &c. The warp contains 1900 ends of 4 run yarn. Fill- 
 ing 40 picks of 2f run yarn. 
 
 No. 3. Represents a Cassimere or Flannel twill. An endless 
 variety of styles plain or fancy, may be produced by the chang- 
 ing of colors and sizes of yarns. This weave is employed to make 
 suitings, flannels, blankets, &c. 
 
 No. 4. Represents a Cassimere with a back, the face appears 
 the same as No. 3. But the backs are different, every other pick 
 appearing upon the back. The back pick is employed to pro- 
 duce weight, and for practicing deception (sometimes). This 
 pick is usually made from coarse stock. There are no back
 
 38 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 warp threads in this weaving. Bolts 2, 4, 6 and 8 for back pick 
 and the others for face. The warp for sample is 8 threads of sin- 
 gle, and 8 threads of double and twist yarn, dressed 8 and 8, (8 
 single and 8 twist.) Twist a 6 and 7 run with 18 holes per inch 
 to the right, 1728 threads, 12 reed, 4 in a dent, 36 inches wide 
 in the loom. Filling back pick 3 runs, face pick 4^, 44 pick, <. 
 About 9 ozs. yarn weight, 11^ to 12 ozs. from the Loom. Perhaps 
 8 harness would avoid crowding threads, two, 4 harness, same 
 as design. 
 
 No. 5. Represents a Hair Line, 3 harness, 4 bolts, being an 
 uncommon and peculiar weave. The sample appears as though 
 coarse and inferior stock was employed. A very pretty hair line 
 could be produced by using fine stock with more threads for warp 
 and filling. The warp is 2 and 1, two single threads and one 
 twist. Draw in the two single on the first and second harness 
 respectively, and the twist on the third. The filling is pick and 
 pick, a pick of single and a pick of twist. Bolt one for single 
 pick, No. 2 for twist pick. 6 or 9 Harness may be used by hav- 
 ing each three repeat those in the design. 
 
 No. 6. Represents a Combination Weave. A floating rib with 
 a furrow. The weaving in the furrow is the so called Elastic 
 weave. In the largest furrow there appears to be only three 
 threads, while there are 10 double and twist threads. Next to the 
 rib there are 4 green twist threads, each are on the same shaft one 
 in each heddle respectively, which makes them appear as though 
 the 4 were in the same heddle, and they could as well be all drawn 
 into one heddle. The two brown twist are on another shaft, one 
 in each heddle respectively, then 4 green twist threads same as 
 the other green twist and on the same shaft. In the small fur- 
 row there are two brown twist threads, one twist on first harness, 
 the other on the second. The two first harness are for furrow, 
 and which is a plain or cotton weave. More harness may be used 
 if necessary. The 3d and 4th harness are for the rib. Observe as 
 per design the first pick (bolt No. 1), floats under the rib and so 
 with every other pick. It is the pick which floats under which 
 forms the rib, but the rib is not formed till the cloth is fulled ; 
 the fulling process contracts the filling threads, and thus the float- 
 ing pick throws up the rib. (Some ribs are produced by using
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 39 
 
 twist yarns with single.) More harness may be employed for the 
 rib as well as the furrow, if required. 
 
 Xo. 7. Represents a Double and Twist Face with a back, and 
 is made with 4 harness, 8 bolts. The warp is all twist, the filling 
 is one pick of twist and one pick of single, the single pick is 
 thrown upon the back, the twist upon the face. Bolts 1, 3, 5 and 
 7 for face twist pick, the others for the single back pick. Some 
 of the sample is intended to be used for drafting or practicing. 
 Cut off two inches from the bottom of sample and proceed as per 
 the previous instructions. 4 warp and 8 filling threads make a 
 pattern. 
 
 Xo. 8. Represents a Tricot, usually called a two and two, as 
 two picks are used for the back and two for the face. Bolts 1 and 
 2 are for the face picks, 3 and 4 for the back picks, &c. The sam- 
 ple is made with about 2400 threads of G run yarn for the warp, 
 and 100 picks of filling per inch; the two back picks are about 
 
 5 runs, the two face picks 6 runs. Perhaps 8 harness would be- 
 better than 4. The sample is a production of the Lippitt Woolen 
 Co., Woon socket, R. I. 
 
 No. 9. Represents a small Basket Weave, and is a silk mixture, 
 
 6 harness bolts. The warp is two twist threads for face, and 
 one single for back. The single threads are drawn in on the first 
 and fourth harness, and which as per design are down 4 times 
 to twice up in the 6 changes, and thus are mostly thrown on the 
 back, while the two succeeding twist threads are up 4 times to 
 twice down in the six changes, and thus appear mostly upon the 
 face. The 2d and 3d harness are alike, which makes those two 
 twist threads appear as though they were in the same.heddle, 
 and which helps to form the basket. The filling is all twist, two 
 picks for face, one for back. Bolts one and four for the back 
 pick, two and three and five and six for face picks. One of the 
 face picks are to be a silk twist, as per sample; the 2d and oth -picks 
 are silk twist. The 2d and 3d bolts are alike,- and thus we obtain 
 two picks alike, and which will be called two picks in a shed. 
 And this is the method used for obtaining two or more picks in 
 the same shed. By building two or more bolts alike, the listings 
 which are usually a plain weave, catch the filling at each side so
 
 40 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 that any number of picks may be put in one shed. By using dif- 
 ferent colors of silk, green, blue, &c., a very desirable and good 
 looking fabric is produced. The sample is a production of the 
 well known Lippitt Woolen Co. 
 
 No. 10. Eepresents a nice Twill for coatings or suitings, 8 har- 
 ness, 16 bolts. The sample warp is about 1680 threads of 6 run 
 yarn. Filling 60 picks of 5 run yarn, weighs about 7 ounces 
 finished. For heavier weight use heavier yarn and more threads 
 in the warp, and about the same number of picks of filling, and 
 by changing colors, a variety of desirable patterns may be made. 
 
 No. 11. Represents a very nice Hair Line in heavy weights, 
 8 harness and 16 bolts. Warp is three single threads and 1 twist. 
 The 1st harness is for a back thread, the 2d for a face, the 3d for a 
 back, the 4th for face, and is a black and white double and twist, 
 containing about 24 holes to the inch. The filling is also 3 single 
 and' 1 twist. The first pick represented by the first bolt is for the 
 twist, the three following are single, the 4th is for twist and so on. 
 It may be easily seen how the twist thread in the warp, with 
 those in the filling form a line. Observe the twist thread. 8th 
 harness it is up 14 picks in 16, and when it is down the twist 
 pick of filling passes over it, and thus it is not broken. 
 
 When drafting patterns containing different colors and shades, 
 and single and twist threads, some of which are for back, some 
 for face, by noting each color or thread of warp and filling as per 
 the design, it may be easily observed how to draw the threads into 
 the heddles, and how, to set the filling boxes to introduce the 
 right pick of filling, to produce the pattern. The sample is from 
 a firmly Avoven, well felted fabric. About 2200 threads in the 
 warp, with about 60 picks of filling per inch. 
 
 No. 12. Represents a Double and Twist face with a back, 12 
 harness, 12 Bolts. The warp is one single thread and one twist, 
 the filling the same. The single threads of both warp and filling 
 are woven to appear upon tJie back. They each occasionally con- 
 nect with the warp threads to hold the face and back together. 
 Observe the first harness motion, which carries a twist thread, 
 it appears up 9 times in the 12 changes of a pattern, and when it 
 sinks, a twist filling thread passes over it, and thus the twist face
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 41 
 
 remains unbroken, and each of the twist warp threads changes 
 the same. Observe also, when the single picks of filling pass 
 through, most all the warp twist threads are up so that they do 
 not appear upon the face. The warp contains about 1600 threads. 
 There are about 5-i picks of filling per inch. The three last sam- 
 ples are a production of the well known Edward Harris, of Woon- 
 socket, R. I. 
 
 Should any of the subscribers for this work wish for more light 
 or information in relation to the samples, designs and general in- 
 structions as given in this book, it will be cheerfully furnished 
 gratis by the author. And will also draft any other patterns, &c., 
 for the small consideration of one dollar to pay for time, &c.
 
 42 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS DESIGNS. 
 
 The following Diagrams of Weaves, are illustrations of actual 
 weaving, by and with which cloths have been actually made by 
 the contributor. (No imaginary weaves, or imaginary rules 
 for making cloths are here given.) And with the explanations of 
 yarns to be used, and the general instructions as given, a chain 
 can be built from them for weaving the goods for which they are 
 intended. 
 
 
 
 4 Harness, 8 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 1, is what is called a Plain Weave; the same number of 
 threads appear above the filling, as also under the filling at each 
 change of the harness. No definite number of harness, or liolts 
 need to be mentioned, only that they will have to be in even num- 
 bers, as 2, 4, 6, 8, and so on.' An endless variety of goods are 
 made with this simple weave, by making changes in colors of the 
 warp and filling. We get flannels, blankets, and even fancy 
 plaids, &c. 
 
 No. 2. No. 3. 
 
 DfflD 
 
 3 Harness. 3 Bolts. 
 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAGS. 2 and 3, are 3 Harness Twills. Diagram 2d, represents 
 that two thirds of the warp is above the filling, consequently, two 
 thirds of the filling is under the warp. A very good Broad cloth 
 can be made with this weave. Have 3080 ends of 4 runs, with 
 48 picks of 5 run filling, 19 reed, 2 in a dent, -80 inches wide in 
 the loom, weight about 16 ounces; or have the same ends in the 
 warp of 5 runs, filling 5| runs, and GO picks, weight about 16 
 ozs. from loom. Weave white and piece dye. Diagram 3d, rep- 
 resents that two thirds of the warp is under the filling; conse-
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 43 
 
 qucntly, two thirds of filling is above the warp, and is a good 
 weave for a cotton warp Kentucky Jean ; the most of the warp 
 being upon the back. Jeans are not finished, all that process 
 being done in the loom. Weave, say about the width wanted, 
 take to finishing room, roll on a round iron, slip the iron out 
 when rolled, and ship to market. Good oil is generally used on 
 the stock, so as not to give them an offensive smell. Many other 
 goods are made on 3 harness, such as water proofs, herringbone 
 twills, &c. To make a herringbone on 3 harness, requires rather 
 too much cross drawing, and mixing threads. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 nnnsnffi 
 
 3 Harness, 6 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 4. Makes a good weaving for spring light weight goods. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 sn 
 
 3 Harness, 14 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 5. Makes a good cross Cord. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 aoomm 
 
 Harness, 6 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 6. With warp one color, have filling pick and pick, and 
 we get a very pretty pattern. 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 onnn 
 +* 
 
 4 Harness, 8 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 7. A Kersey Weave with 2 picks in" a shade. The 
 read will observe how two picks in a shade are obtained. As 
 there are two bolts built alike, and as each bolt in the chain indi- 
 cates one pick of the filling : If we have two bolts in succession
 
 44 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 2 exactly alike, we must necessarily get two picks of filling exact- 
 ly alike, and consequently two picks in the same shed. And our 
 listings which are usually on separate harness, and which are plain 
 weaves. They change at each pick, and thus hold the filling at 
 each side of the pick ; with a twist warp a very heavy and sub- 
 stantial cloth can be made. The following will make a very desir- 
 able pattern. Warp 1600 ends of two twist threads, one a black 
 and 7 runs, and a white 9 runs twisted, the other an orange 7 runs, 
 and a black 8 runs twisted. Dress a thread of one tAvist, then a 
 thread of the other. Filling all single black or brown 3^ or 4 
 runs, from 40 to 50 picks; draw straight through, 12| reed, 4 in 
 a dent, about 34 inches wide. The colors of yarn can be changed 
 in the warp and filling, and a variety of patterns made. Perhaps 
 8 harness would be better than 4, (say repeat the 4 in diagram,) 
 as the threads would be someAvhat crowded on 4 harness. 
 
 mmmammma 
 
 4 Harness, 8 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 8. Represents a Broken Twill, and which makes a cloth 
 which resembles a plain weave, and is quite as good a weave as 
 can be produced for making a light weight. By using drop boxes, 
 and various colors, any style plaids can be obtained, or any style 
 fancies or shaded plaids and stripes ; or for obtaining a velvet 
 finish where a plaid or shaded stripe is wanted. To make heavy 
 weights, there would have to be used some double and twist yarn. 
 
 DIAG. 9. Represents a very good weaving for a double and 
 twist broken hair line, and makes a substantial piece of cloth, as 
 well as a pretty pattern. The following makes a very good style. 
 Warp 1700 ends, 2 black single threads 4 runs each, and one twist, 
 (a black 7 runs, a white 8 runs.) Dress 2 black single and 1 twist, 
 filling one black and white twist threads same as warp ; one black 
 thread 2 runs, and one black thread 4 runs ; the black filling
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 45 
 
 thread 2 run goes on the back, the other two on the face, say 1 
 pick of twist, 1 pick of back 2-| runs, 1 pick black 44- runs, then 
 the 2? again requiring three shuttles, put in about 60 picks, per- 
 haps 8 harness (two 4 harness same as diagram) would crowd 
 the threads less. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 +* * -*an 
 
 4 4 + 4 
 
 U*44i;. 4 
 
 aaomammm 
 
 4 Harness. 8 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 10. Represents a Tricot weaving, with one pick face and 
 one pick upon the back, and is called a very good weave. 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 aamammmn 
 HBDnnnnnn 
 
 naammmam 
 
 4 Harness, 8 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 11. Represents a Broken Crossing, and makes a very 
 pretty figure pattern. 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 44 4 444 * 
 
 444 444 444 4 ** 
 444 444 ** 
 
 * *** ^** ,:;..:*.***'..-'.* 4-4^ 
 
 4 Harness, 23 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 12. Represents a Cross Rib design, and makes a very 
 good rib across the piece. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 +++* 
 
 
 4 4 
 4444444 4 
 
 5 Harness, 10 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 13. Represents a Cord with a recess, and is only intend- 
 ed to be used in combination with another weave (for the ground 
 work). As you will observe every other pick of the filling passes 
 under without weaving into the threads of the diagram, and that 
 thread which floats under makes the cord, and the next pick will 
 make a little recess. The process of fulling is what makes the
 
 46 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 cord, as that pick which passes under will full and shorten in 
 length and thus raise up the cord, and that is the principle of all 
 ribs and cords, as a general rule, the floating threads shorten in 
 fulling and thus raise the warp producing the rib or cord. So that 
 we must necessarily have another weave for the ground work 
 between our cord or rib. 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 DSD****** 
 
 ** * **** 
 
 **** * ** 
 
 ****** * 
 
 ******* 
 
 5 Harness, 9 Bolts. 
 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAU. 14. Represents a Raised Feather, and is only intended to 
 be used in combination with another weave, and by drawing 
 straight through we get a twilled cord, and by drawing through 
 and back same as for herringbone we obtain a raised rib with a 
 point, and is very much the same as a feather, and something 
 like a herringbone. 
 
 ***** 
 
 
 **** 
 
 ***** 
 
 5 Harne>*. 10 Bolt*. 
 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 15. Represents a Twill something like a cassimere when 
 the threads are drawn straight through, and with threads drawn 
 through and back produces a feather something like herring- 
 bone in sample of cloth only it will make a coarser twill ; with 10 
 threads say 5 drawn straight through and 5 backward.*, we obtain 
 a small very good styled feather, and by using more threads same 
 as explained for herringbone we can make a feather stripe of any 
 size. When used for a feathered stripe, it should be combined 
 with another weave say a tiger or a doeskin. 
 
 **** 
 **** 
 ** *** 
 ***** 
 
 6 Harness, 6 Bolts. 
 FRONT.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 47 
 
 DIAG. 16. Represents a Doeskin ; the same calculations for 
 warp and filling as we found in the sample of cloth on page 5 
 would answer and make a good cloth, and in fact there would not 
 he much if any difference in the goods. We could not make the 
 sample with six harness as the chain would not come right in the 
 combination. "We wish to make a 5 harness 10 bolt herringbone, 
 and we can combine a 5 harness doeskin with it as we can use 10 
 bolts as well as 5. But in a six harness doeskin we cannot use 
 10 bolts, must have 6, 12, 18 and so on. As was said before we 
 must have the chain for each weave of a combination same length. 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 sssonn 
 
 6 Harness, 6 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 17. Represents a weaving for a Coarse Twill. Have a warp 
 of about 1600 ends, with one twist thread and one single, with 
 filling one color, and put in from 40 to 50 picks, and it will make 
 a twill with about 10 to the inch. This calculation is for a light 
 weight; for heavy weight, increase warp threads to about 2000, 
 with same number of picks of filling, of from 4^ to 5 run yarn. 
 
 6 Harness, 6 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 18. Represents a very good Twill. Have a warp of abont 
 1600 ends all twist, which may be black and white, brown and 
 white, drab and white, or any twist desired. Have the single 
 threads for the twist about 7 runs each ; have the filling one color 
 single yarn, either a drab, brown or black, about 3 runs. 12 reed, 
 4 in a dent, 33^ inches wide. Perhaps 12 harness would avoid 
 crowding the threads ; two 6 harness same as the diagram, put in 
 from 45 to 50 picks, makes a substantial cloth for weaving, and a 
 very pretty pattern, and weighs about 12 ounces from the loom.
 
 48 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 Xo. 19. 
 
 444444444444 4 4 . 
 
 44444444 4 4 4444 
 
 4444 4 4 44444444 
 
 \ * "*" 
 
 444444444444 4 
 
 UD**4444444444 '. 4 : 
 
 6 Harness, 24 Bolts. 
 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 19. Represents a weaving for a Raised Feather, to be used 
 in combination with another weave for the ground work. 
 Would look well with a tiger weave or doeskin, and for the feather 
 we should want at least 12 threads for a small one, and more 
 threads for a larger one, and would require a drawing same as for 
 herringbones, say 6 threads straight through and 6 threads back- 
 wards. Threads for feathers and herringbones usually require 
 a single yarn, unless we wish to raise them considerable, when a 
 twist thread will do better; and for the feather in this case, use 
 twist yarn all one color or more than one, as you may desire. 
 
 No. 20. 
 
 444 4 4 444 4 
 44 444 4 444 444 
 ! 444 444 444 444 
 4 444 444 444 4 
 
 6 Harness, 24 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 20. Represents a good Zig Zag pattern ; can be used in a 
 combination or alone; makes a very pretty and rather an odd 
 pattern, and I think it is the only pattern of the kind that has ever 
 before been printed for the public, as it is an original weaving for 
 this country, having lately come from Scotland. Warp yarn for 
 this weaving would make the best appearance, dressed 6 and G 
 or 8 and 8, (i. e) 6 of one color with G of another, or 8 of one 
 color and 8 of another. Filling of one color, or more, or same as 
 the warp. 
 
 44 44 
 
 44 44 , -'.'I 
 
 
 
 6 Harness, 9 Bolts. 
 FRONT. ' 
 
 DIAG. 21. Represents a very good Tricot for fine stock, and 
 makes a splendid weave for a silk mixture ; have the silk in the
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 49 
 
 warp and we have 2 picks for back arid 1 for face. Bolts 1, 3, 
 4, 6, 7 and 9 for face; bolts 2, 5 and 8 for back, and in which case 
 we can have two five picks for face and one coarse for back. 
 
 No. 22. 
 
 mmomamao 
 
 * 44iDS 
 
 *** - * 
 
 '.I' 4- *** 
 44 4 4 
 4 44 4 
 
 " 
 
 8 Harness, 8 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 22. Represents a very good Tricot, and for a piece of 
 goods of fine stock, it makes rather more of a distinct figure than 
 the preceding ; although either are about as good as can be made. 
 This is woven pick and pick, a pick for face, and a pick for the 
 back. Bolts 1, 3, 5 and 7 for back, the others for face. The sam- 
 ple which the writer has which was made by the above weave, is a 
 middle blue, (i. e., not a very dark nor yet a very light shade), 
 and is the best I ever saw. 
 
 ]*. * 
 
 ***** * ***** M 
 
 * ***** ' ***** 
 
 ** 44444 4- !4>4 
 
 4444- \* ***** ' * 
 
 ***** ***** * 
 
 C1LK>4444 4 4444* 
 
 8 Harness, l(j Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 23. Represents a very good, weave for showing as though 
 made from all double and twist, and which has a face and back, 
 the backing not showing upon the face, and gives a chance to use 
 a coarse stock for the back filling; the face shows a fine twill. The 
 following will make a very good piece of cloth: Warp 1840 ends, 
 13^ reed, 4 in a dent, 34 inches wide, single 5 run yarn, slate,. drab 
 or a brown dl'ab. Filling, one thread a twist, made from a tan 
 drab G^ runs, and a stone drab 6-^; the other filling thread a light 
 mixture 2^ runs for the back, wove pick and pick, 2 shuttles, about 
 60 picks; bolts 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 and 15 back picks, the others 
 for face twist thread., 
 7
 
 50 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 No. 24, 
 
 iaSanaii 
 
 8 Harness, 8 Bolts. 
 
 DIAG. 24. Eepresents a weave commonly called a tiger, and is 
 a very good plan for making plaids ; shows a plain face, and has 
 a coarse back. Ariy styled plaid can be made, or a very good 
 looking plain cloth, or a mixture. Weave, pick and pick, a coarse 
 pick for back and a fine pick for the face ; bolts 2, 4, 6 and 8 for 
 back pick, the others for face. For plaiding, dress the warp with 
 colors arranged as desired, and arrange the colors in the face pick 
 for the filling part. 
 
 DL 
 
 
 8 Harness, 8 Bolt. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 25. Represents another tiger weave, and is woven pick 
 and pick, fine pick for face with a coarse for back, and will make 
 a very good plain silk mixture; have the silk twisted with the 
 face pick of filling: also a variety of patterns can be made with 
 this weaving, by dressing the warp with some twist threads, say 4 
 threads single black, brown, or a mixture, and two threads of black 
 and white, brown and white, brown and olive, or any desired 
 twist; have filling 5 single and one twist, same colors as for warp, 
 and we get a small pretty check pattern ; bolts 1, 3, 5 and 7 back 
 pick, the others for face.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 51 
 
 8 Harness, 8 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 26. Represents a Doeskin weaving. By dressing warp 2 
 and 1, say 2 light mix and 1 bine threads, and 2 black and 1 blue, 
 Ave get a very good diagonal. 
 
 8 Harness, 16 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 27. Represents a weaving that will make a very fancy 
 black and white pattern, or a black and olive, or a black and blue. 
 Dress warp 8 black and 8 white single threads, making 16 threads, 
 have two threads in each heddle or on each shaft; filling, 8 and 
 8. same as warp, 16 threads and 2 picks in a shade ; the above dress- 
 ing and weaving makes a large figure. Dress 16 black and 16 
 white for warp, have filling 16 black and 16 white, and a larger 
 figure is obtained. 
 
 No. 28. 
 
 * *^." : **'-~ 
 
 BiDDDSDHO 
 
 8 Harness, 8 Bolts. 
 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 28. Represents a good Chinchilla weaving; they are al- 
 ways made double width. Warp about 3000 ends about 5 or 6 
 runs fine and white, (some are made with white cotton warps, 
 though they are not so nice and will not bring the price of wool
 
 52 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 Avarps in the market), woven pick and pick, the back filling from 
 3 to 4 runs white, the face filling from 1 to H runs, and very 
 slack twisted, put in from 80 to 100 picks to the inch, and have 
 cloth weigh about 2 pounds per yard double width. Cloth will 
 not want to be woven much wider than the finished width required, 
 as they do not want only a little fulling. The peculiar finish is 
 obtained by a machine made purposely for finishing them. They 
 are made of various colors and shades, and some white. All the 
 coloring required is for the face pick of filling. Bolts 1, 3, 5 and 
 7 are for face picks, the others for back picks, straight drawing. 
 
 T 
 
 8 Harness, 16 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 29. Eepresents a good Aveave for a double and tAvist face 
 with a coarse back, and is intended for backing threads in Avarp 
 as well as back filling. The folloAving Avill make a good looking 
 cloth : Warp 1632 ends, 12 reeds, 4 in a dent, 34 inches Avide, 
 dressed 1 and 1, one twist (made from an olive brown 8 runs and 
 a black 8 runs), the other single black 4 runs. Filling, one twist 
 thread same as for Avarp, the other single black about 2 or 3 runs 
 for the back ; the tAvist threads in both the Avarp and filling are 
 for the face, the single threads of each for back. Bolts 2, 4, 6, 8, 
 10, 12, 14 and 16 for back filling, the others for the face. Har- 
 ness 2, 4, 6 and 8 for the twist thread of face of warp, the others 
 for the black single threads. Commence to draw in Avith black 
 on first harness, next twist and so on. Put in about 48 picks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 9 Harness, 30 Bolts. 
 FRONT.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTUREE. 53 
 
 DIAG. 30. Represents a Twill weave design, and will produce 
 a large distinct twill, by dressing the warp 12 threads of double 
 and twist, two 8 runs twisted (either black and dark green, red 
 brown, and green, or black and brown), and 24 threads black sin- 
 gle, 4 runs, with about 1044 ends, and have the filling all one color 
 or more than one of '3^ runs, 50 picks per inch, with yarn in the 
 warp as above mentioned; the twills will be about one-eighth of I 
 an inch apart or 8 twills per inch. The filling might be coarse 
 and fine with the coarse upon the back, as every other bolt 2, 4, 
 6, &c., weave more upon the back than face." 
 
 No. 31. 
 
 44 "44 4444 44444444 44 44 
 44 44 44 4444 44444444 44 
 44 44 44 44 4444 44444444 
 4 44 44 44 44 4444 4444444 
 
 4444 44 44 44 44 4444 4444 
 
 4444444 44 44 44 44 4444 4 
 
 44444444 44 44 44 44 4444 
 
 1 
 
 10 Harness, 30 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 31. Represents another Twill, and will not be quite as 
 large as the preceding twill, and would make a very good coating 
 similar to some of the Lippitt coatings. In the sample the draft 
 was taken from the warp and was all double and twist, and the face 
 pick of filling was also twist, with two single upon the back. 
 Bolts 2, 3, 5 and 6, &c., are for back picks, the others for face. 
 
 
 
 ^44* 4^**4 4 > 
 
 44444 444447 4 4 44444444 
 4 44444 44444 4 4444444 
 444 44444 ^44444 444144444 
 44444 44444 44444 44 444 
 4444444 44444 44444 4 44 
 44444444 44444' 44444 :i 4u4 
 4 44444444 44444 44444: L4 
 4 4 44444444 44444 44444 
 4 4 44444444 44444Z44444 
 14 Harness, US Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 32. Represents a Diagonal and will make a large diago- 
 nal line with two smaller between, with a white warp and black 
 filling, would make a very pretty black and white diagonal. A
 
 54 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 plaid may be made with a black ground work and have the plaid 
 white, with a thread of green or red each side of the white, and 
 the white would also show diagonal lines of black. 
 
 > * * * 
 
 ::* L*7 ****** **** 
 "Tor"* ********* 
 * * ****** ** 
 *** * 
 
 ^***5un*qab*qc ****** 
 
 * ****** 77jn*nnD*anD***** 
 * 
 
 *** ****** * * *** 
 
 ****7****** * * ** 
 ***** > 
 ****** ****** 
 ****** ****** 
 ****** * 
 * * * 
 
 * * * 
 ****** * * 
 
 * * * 
 
 *** +>+ 4. 
 
 ** * 
 
 =s3fcpm::*:::. 
 
 > 
 
 24 Harness, 24 Bolts. 
 FROST. 
 
 DIAG. 33. Represents a Raised Rib Diagonal design, and will 
 make two distinct ribs, with a space as wide as the two ribs occupy- 
 between them; the space between the ribs will show most all fill- 
 ing, while the warp will make the ribs. 
 
 No. 34. 
 
 ***** * 
 
 * * * 
 
 
 
 ** * * * 
 
 * **** * ***** ** * 
 * * * * 
 
 * 
 
 * ** * * 
 
 * * * ** 
 
 * * 
 
 * * ***** ** * * *** 
 
 * ***** * * * 
 
 ***** ** * * **** * 
 
 ***** * * * ***** * 
 
 ** * * 
 
 ** * * 
 
 *** * * * ***** * ** 
 
 * ** * * 
 
 * * * 
 
 ***** * * * 
 > * ***** 
 
 * * * 
 
 M Harness, ->-l Bolts. 
 FRONT.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 55 
 
 DIAG. 34. Represents a large Diagonal Rib with a small cord 
 1 >et ween. By having the warp and filling one black twist, and 
 two blue single each, a handsome pattern is produced; have the 
 black twist coarse, say two three runs twisted, dress the warp 2 
 and 1,; 2 blue single and one twist, draw the 2 blue on the first 
 and second harness, Avith the twist on the 3d and so on. Bolts 1. 
 4, 7. 10 and so on for black twist, the others for the blue single. 
 
 No. 35. 
 
 4th Weave 
 
 of the 
 Combination. 
 
 12 Harness. 
 
 4 444 4 4 
 
 4 4 444 4 ~. 3d Set. 
 
 4 4 444 4 3 2d Set. 
 
 4 444 4 4 
 
 ^ ^ 4 ^ 4 
 
 44 444 
 
 DDDSC " 4 444 4 
 
 4 8 12 
 3 7 11 
 2 6 10 
 1 5 9 
 
 4 8 12 
 3 7 11 
 2 6 10 
 1 5 9 
 
 4 8 12 
 3 7 11 
 2 6 10 
 1 5 9 
 
 4 8 12 
 3 7 11 
 
 2 6 10 
 1 5 9 
 
 48 Harness, 16 Bolts. 
 FRONT. 
 
 DIAG. 35. Represents a design which is to explain another kind 
 of a weave which may be cross drawn, and which we might also
 
 56 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 say contains a combination of 4 different weaves; although the 
 weaves are not common weaves, the design produces a very odd 
 and pretty pattern. Observe it is separated into Aveaves, 4 weaves 
 forming the combination or whole. Also observe each weave 
 of the combination is composed of 3 repetitions of 4 harness in 
 each set. Thus we have 4 different weaves in the combination of 
 12 harness each, or 48 harness in all; and thus 48 warp threads 
 are used for a pattern, and only 1C filling threads, as it is 16 bolts 
 for the Avhole ; generally there are as many or more bolts than 
 harness. By careful observation, it is observed that each of the 
 3 setts of each weave are repetitions, and thus one sett will answer 
 as well as to have 3 setts alike, and thus we will commence with 
 the first sett of the 1st weave and draw 4 threads straight through 
 harness number 5 same as number 1, and will put the 5th thread 
 on 1st harness; harness number 6 same as harness number 2, and 
 will put the 6th thread on 2d harness and so on, and we find the 
 first sett of 4 harness will carry the 12 threads by drawing them 
 straight through 3 times, and so we cancel the. other two setts 
 of 1st weave and pass to the 2d weave, and we find the same repe- 
 tition as with the first weave, and that the same drawing of 4 
 threads 3 times over will dispose of 12 threads, and that it may 
 alt be done by using the 1st sett, and so on with the 3d weave 
 and the 4th, and the cross draw is all accomplished ; and we have 
 found out that 16 harness will carry the 48 threads, and produce 
 exactly the sajne pattern as the 48 harness would, and after the 
 2d and 3d setts of each weave have been cancelled, then the 1st 
 setts brought together gives us a design same as the following. 
 
 No. 36. 
 
 5 9 48 threads on 16 Harness. 
 16 Harness, 16 Bolts. 
 FRONT.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 57 
 
 DIAG. 36. Eepresents diagram No. 35 cross drawn, and reduced 
 to respectable dimensions for weaving. And to draw the 48 
 threads as per the previous diagram, we will commence and draw 
 12 threads on the first 4 harness, by drawing 4 threads 3 times over, 
 then the next 12 threads on harness 5, 6, 7 and 8, 4 threads 3 
 times over, then the next 12 threads on harness 9, 10, 11 and 12, 
 and the last 12 threads on the last 4 harness same way, and one 
 pattern is drawn in, and then come back to the first 4 harness 
 again. But the same cloth woven as above, will draft 48 har- 
 ness again. The cloth sample I have which was made by tliis 
 design is as follows: Warp one and one, all single, 1 brown, 
 and 1 black thread. Filling, all single, 2 dark brown, 2 black 
 and 2 dark green, 3 colors, and the pattern is a very uncommon 
 and pretty one. 
 
 I might add several hundred more designs, but I hope and ex- 
 pect the reader Avill be able to learn to draft patterns without 
 much difficulty. Care, close attention and practice are required 
 after the theory is fully understood, to enable a person to be a 
 good draftsman.
 
 PART SECOND 
 
 WOOL ROOM. 
 
 department must be acknowledged to be the primary 
 department of the business, consequently it is a very 
 important branch. (The saying is), when a good begin- 
 ning has been made, one-half of the undertaking has been accom- 
 plished. Wrong calculations made in this department, either in 
 having made an unprofitable purchase of stock, or in many other 
 ways hereafter mentioned, the whole or some part of the business 
 will be affected by the miscalculation. It will hardly be consid- 
 ered within the province of this work to attempt to give rules or 
 instructions for assorting the different qualities of wool, or to 
 write a lengthy article explaining the staples, or the superiority 
 of one particular quality or grade, as compared Avith another for 
 general use. 
 
 I propose to make a few remarks upon the general manage- 
 ment of this department, and give some rules by which calcula- 
 tions can be made, and thus the stock may be arranged systemat- 
 ically, and the estimations of the cost of goods may be made, so 
 far as this department is interested, very accurately. The same 
 rules and calculations are constantly employed by our first class 
 manufacturers. 
 
 Textile fabrics as well as all manufactured articles, are arranged 
 and classified ; their respective class being determined somewhat,
 
 60 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 by the grades and qualities of wools and other stocks from which 
 they are made. When the very best of stock has been taken from 
 the wool room, sometimes such stock as ought to make a first 
 class fabric; by an improper treatment in some of the subsequent 
 departments, the cloth is made to appear as though it was intended 
 for a second or third class article ; yet with all the improper treat- 
 ment, .a person skilled in manufacturing is generally able to dis- 
 cern, that good stock was literally ruined by improper treatment 
 in some one or more of the various processes necessary to produce 
 the manufactured article. This remark in relation to the improper 
 treatment of stock, is given to show that the stock is not always to 
 be blamed for not producing a finished fabric, equal to what it 
 indicated it would in the raw material. Each manufacturer usu- 
 ally makes a regularly established grade of goods to be sold at an 
 average price, and sometimes has regular customers for his goods, 
 and as said before the stock employed decides the grade. Skill- 
 ful managers usually have pretty correct ideas as to what stock 
 it is for their advantage to employ to allow a fair profit, and make 
 about an equivalent article. 
 
 It will be found necessary also to make some calculations by 
 figures, of the cost for labor, stock, manufacturing, &c., to keep 
 our business on the safe side ; not allow the affairs to be carried on 
 by guess work mainly, and wait till thousands are lost before we 
 are aware that the business is running at a loss. One of Sir 
 Walter Scott's sayings was, that " Whatever might be said of luck 
 'tis skill that leads to fortune ?" I should say a person who is in 
 the habit of carrying on business on the guess work plan, is 
 trusting to luck while the person who has a fair knowledge of 
 the business, and has each of his departments supplied with a 
 skillful and prudent manager, to produce the best possible fabric 
 from the stock, and has a regular system in each department, 
 and not the least of all who has the necessary books kept in each 
 department, to furnish ttie necessary figures, by which estimations 
 may be furnished, so that he may have full, and complete control 
 of, and understand the situation of his business ; such a person 
 is doing business in a skillful manner, and will attain a station of 
 eminence, that is, " fortune." 
 
 Unless a very inferior class of goods are made, the cost for the 
 stock material, will be far higher than for any other material or
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 61 
 
 expense connected with the business, the fact of which presents 
 the idea that it is a very important department, as some of the 
 stock when ready for use, is worth from 4 to 5, and sometimes it 
 gets up to 6 cents per ounce, and 6 cents per yard, clear profit, on a 
 large production of yards will foot up a comfortable yearly income. 
 Manufacturers usually obtain their wool from wool commission 
 houses, where they have a choice of selection from all grades, as 
 produced from this and other countries. One and perhaps the 
 greatest principle of this department is to be able to form a nearly 
 correct opinion upon the probable shrinkage of the wool when 
 buying it, also the length, and strength of the staple; as upon 
 the shrinkage of the wool, we form a basis of its cost, and upon 
 the length of the staple, AVC judge of the probable amount of 
 short stock may be used in connection with it, and ^still make a 
 strong, smooth, and elastic yarn ; as all the wool must pass through 
 the process of scouring, or cleansing, and upon the scouring and 
 the loss in weight thereby, we determine the cost of our stock, so 
 that the market price of the wool is not altogether the principal 
 question for consideration, but it is the percentage of grease, sand 
 and other matter it contains, which are of no use to the business 
 and consequently are a dead loss, and when this loss is actually 
 known, then and not till then, can we decide the actual cost of 
 the stock. As was said before, all the estimations of the cost of 
 goods for the stock part have to be made from clean stock calcu- 
 lations ; no positive rule can be given of the probable shrinkage of 
 different wools, as the same sorts of fleece wool, are found to 
 vary in their shrinkages, w r hen obtained from different localities. 
 The following are called the average shrinkage for the wools 
 mentioned. 
 
 Washed No. 1 X and XX fleece, shrinks on an average from 33 
 to 40 per cent. 
 
 Unwashed No. 1 fleece shrinks on an average from 40 to 50 
 per cent. 
 
 A. 1, A. 2, Cal. shrinks on an average from 45 to 55 per ce.nt. 
 
 No. 1, X, Mestiza shrinks on an average from 50 to 60 per cent. 
 
 Tub washed fleece, shrinks on an average from 15 to 25 per 
 cent. 
 
 Pulled wools, shrinks on an average from 33 to 40 per cent.
 
 62 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 The above figures are sufficient to show that there is quite a 
 variation in the shrinkage, and a little variation in the shrinkage 
 makes quite a difference in their cost. A very good way to obtain 
 the average shrinkage, is to sort some 10 or more sacks of a lot, 
 and weigh the several sorts separately, and keep separately, then 
 take about 50 tbs. for a trial, divided in proportions as itis sorted, 
 say where running mostly in the 3rd and 4th qualities, with some 
 1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th, take the relative proportions of Ibs. of those 
 sorts, taking more of the 3rd and 4th qualities and so on. Some 
 manufacturers take 100 Ibs. for a trial, taking the fleece or wool 
 just as it happens to come in the sack or bale without giving any 
 attention to the sortings in which case the wool taken might hap- 
 pen to be fsir from the average of the lot. The writer has seen 
 both plans tested, and prefers the former, as it must be evident 
 that that plan will bring the fine and coarse grades together as 
 they are actually found to average. A little time given to this 
 matter is time well and profita' 'y employed. 
 
 Another principle of this dc- n ment, is to have an overseer 
 who is careful and particular n.i (> sorting the wools, keeping 
 them nearly uniform in sorts, an,l who is particular to have al] 
 the small bits of strings, sticks, &c., picked out before leaving his 
 room, as a small piecs of a string left in the wool and which 
 passed along to the cards has been found to cause considerable 
 damage. Also the person at the head of the manufacturing, should 
 know just how he should have the wool sorted, so that he can 
 take the various qualities and use them to the best advantage for 
 the purpose intended, as when short stock, such as cotton, cotton 
 waste, and the various stapled shoddies are used in connection 
 with wool, sound judgment well be necessary to make the proper 
 selections of sorts, and staples to carry the desired quantity of 
 such stock and which will card well and not make an unreason- 
 able waste in carding, make a good even and strong yarn, and 
 which will pass through all the departments without causing any 
 unnecessary delay in the production of goods. The production 
 from the looms is of great importance, as the more yards pro- 
 duced the less will be the average cost per yard for labor, and 
 nearly all the other expenses of the business outside of the stock, 
 as upon the production of yards woven, we make our estimations 
 of the cost of goods, that is, all expenses outside of the stock. 
 No rule can be given for working wool with cotton or shoddy as
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 63 
 
 it depends altogether upon the length of their staples, and all 
 manufacturers know what a variety of staples we find in shoddies 
 as well as wools; long stapled wools usually are employed to carry 
 short stapled shoddies, &c. (See card room.) 
 
 SCOURING WOOL. 
 
 Care should be taken when scouring wools to have them well 
 scoured, and well washed after scouring, they can never be too 
 clean and when scoured for obtaining the shrinkage, it should 
 be well dried, so that we shall not be misled in our calculations. 
 Most all dyers know what a bad effect greasy wool has upon 
 their colors, being as you might say a deadly obstacle to the 
 coloring. Most all carders know what a bad effect greasy wool 
 has upon their cards, and so on through to the finishing depart- 
 ment where perhaps it is felt as seriously as anywhere, for highly 
 finished face cloths which are piece dyed, as the Doeskin and 
 Broadcloth, no even color or lustre can be obtained upon such 
 cloths, when they have any particle of greasy wool in them. And 
 for fancies some of the color which might have been applied a 
 little in the Dye house, such as it was, will here be apt to take 
 leave of absence and pass from the scouring machine into the 
 trench, i. e. if strong enough soap has been applied to start the 
 natural grease Avhich was in the wool and in fact providing the 
 color should be retained, and also the grease, iu either can we 
 have a spoiled fabric. When wool has been properly scoured, and 
 the suds effectually washed out it will appear as follows : it will 
 drain very rapidly, and when the water has pretty well drained 
 from it, it will commence to swell up and appear somewhat 
 springy will look white and clear, and when handled and shaken 
 apart will be feathery, will smell clean, and will not be gummy or 
 sticky ; and when improperly scoured it will feel weighty, and 
 greasy, and will show very quick that it has been improperly 
 managed. 
 
 The following rule will be found to be a short and effectual 
 method for obtaining the shrinkage of wools.
 
 64 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 KULE. From the pounds taken in the grease, subtract the 
 pounds got back after scouring (and well dried), and divide the 
 remainder with two ciphers annexed by the number of pounds taken 
 in the grease; the quotient will be the rate per cent, of shrinkage. 
 
 EXAMPLE Taken for a trial, 50tt>s. (lOlbs. 2d, lOtbs. 3d, 201bs. 4tb, 5R>s. 
 Got back, 351bs. each of 5th and 6th.) 
 
 50)1500(30 pr. ct. ans. (Rate per cent of shrink- 
 1500 age for lOOlbs.) 
 
 There are some mills where they have ample scouring facilities 
 in which they sort their Avools, scour the sorts separately, dry, 
 and return to the wool bins already for use ; in which case the 
 actual shrinkage is obtained and the cost is known. And where 
 they make the goods of perhaps several different qualities and 
 kinds of wool, they have a chance to calculate very closely, as to 
 about the pounds required, and take just the weight wanted for 
 making the goods; and when making fancies of various colors 
 they can use the stock economically, and avoid having an innu- 
 merable number of parts of spools and bobbins lying about. As 
 by understanding how to calculate for warp and filling as explain- 
 ed in part first, calculations can be made to work very closely. 
 
 Some Superintendents and Agents will say it is no use to try to 
 calculate to have warp and filling work up evenly, as it is impos- 
 sible ; and you will generally find those persons cannot calculate, 
 and make any correct estimation upon the cost of their goods, 
 and carry on business without many books, and very loosely, 
 most of their calculations being guess work. It must be admitted, 
 that no calculations can be made which will bring both warp and 
 filling to work up together at all times, and yet they can be made 
 to work very nearly together. 
 
 Most of the mills take the wool from the Wool Room as they 
 say by the tub or vat ; such tubs or vats usually have a capacity 
 capable of holding from 200 to 300 fbs. of scoured wools, and 
 when of that size they would be called 400 or 500 pound tubs or 
 vats (as speaking of the wool in the grease), and their scouring 
 facilities will not allow them to cleanse any more from day to day 
 than is generally used. And when they use different sorts and 
 kinds of wool, they generally make their calculations for stock to 
 be used from the probable shrinkage of the wool, and thus take
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUPACTUREE. 
 
 65 
 
 more or less of one kind or the other in the grease, according to 
 their respective shrinkages, and the proportions in which they 
 wish the wools to appear in their respective lots. The following 
 rule and example will explain the best method for calculating in 
 this case : 
 
 NOTE. There has been taken from the wool room 400 Ibs. of 
 1st quality fleece wool, which we have previously ascertained 
 shrinks 40 per cent, and we will get of clean stock 240 Ibs ; and 
 we wish to add to this the same number of pounds of 1st quality 
 Mestiza wool, and which shrinks 55 per cent. How many pounds 
 of Mestiza shall we be obliged to take in the grease, to just equal 
 the 240 Ibs. of clean fleece? The Mestiza shrinks 55 per cent, so 
 that 45 Ibs of clean wool will be obtained from each 100 Ibs. in 
 the grease. 
 
 RULE. Divide the pounds of dean wool ivanted, with two 
 ciphers annexed, by the pounds of clean wool obtained from each 
 100 Ibs. of the wool we, wish to take out ; the quotient will be the 
 pounds required in the grease to obtain the pounds of clean wool 
 
 wanted. , 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 Lbs. of clean Mestiza wool from 100,)45)240,00 the Ibs. wanted clean wool. 
 
 533 Ibs. ans. as the number of 
 
 lt)=j. of Mestiza wanted in the grease, at 55 percent, shrinkage, to obtain the 
 240 Ibs. clean stock. This rule works both ways, or the reverse of above 
 example. 
 
 Again, suppose we had a lot and we wish to add a certain per- 
 centage of cotton, or shoddy, or wool. 
 
 NOTE. Suppose we have a lot of 856 fts. of wool, and we wish 
 to add to it 20 per cent, of cotton, what will be the weight of cot- 
 ton required ? 
 
 RULE. Divide the pounds already known, with two ciphers an- 
 nexed, by 100 per cent, less the per cent, we wish to add, tlie quo- 
 tient will be the total iveight of the lot, from which subtract the 
 pounds already known, their difference will be the pounds to be 
 added. * 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 cont.=80 per cent, for a divisor, 856 the pounds 
 
 lend. 80)856,00(1070 Ibs aus. as total pounds with 
 
 85600 20 per cent, added. 
 
 1070 less 856tt>s.=2141t)s. the pounds of cotton required 
 for the lot. 
 
 100 per cent, less 20 per 
 alreadv known as the dividend.
 
 1 
 
 
 66 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 To find the cost of clean wool when the market price and the 
 
 rate per cent, of shrinkage are both known. 
 
 RULE. Divide the 
 
 market price with two ciphers annexed, by 
 
 the pounds of clean wool obtained from lOOfts. the quotient will 
 
 be"the cost per pound for clean wool 
 
 EXAMPLE. The market price is 40 cents per pound; the wool shrinks 30 
 
 per cent, per 100 It>s. giving us 70 Ibs.of clean wool per 100 Ibs. 
 
 Clean wool from 100 1 bs=70)40,00 market price. 
 
 
 57 1-7 cts. per pound for the clean wool. 
 
 The following table will be found very useful as a ready refer- 
 
 ence, for obtaining p 
 
 ices of scoured wool. 
 
 TABLE SHOWING COST OF WOOL AFTER SCOURING. 
 
 Find the price in the left-hand column, and at the right, in the column headed 
 
 by the per cent, which 
 
 the wool shrinks in cleansing, will be found the 
 
 
 cost of the cleansed wool. 
 
 PER CENT. OF SHRINKAGE. 
 
 101520 
 
 , 
 
 25 30 35 40 
 
 45 , 50 j 55 60 1 65 
 
 10 11 iiia 
 
 13 14 15 16 
 
 18 20 22 25 28 
 
 124141415 
 
 16 18 19 21 
 
 22 25 28 31 35 
 
 15 1017 IS 
 
 20 21 23| 25 
 
 27 30 33 37 43 
 
 16fil8il9i20 
 
 22 23 25' 2? 
 
 30 33 37 41 47 
 
 20' 22 2:} 35 
 
 26 28 30 33 
 
 36 40 44 50 57 
 
 22^252628 
 
 30 32 34 37 
 
 41 i 45 50 56 64 
 
 35 873931 
 
 33 35 38 41 
 
 45' 50' 55 62 71 
 
 27| 3 : >- ; !4 
 
 36 39 42 46 
 
 50 : 55 61 68 78 
 
 30 3335^37 
 
 40 43 46 50 
 
 54' 60 66 75 85 
 
 32$ 36 38 40 
 
 43 46 50 54 
 
 59 65 72 68 93 
 
 35 3041 45 
 
 46 50 53 5S 
 
 63 70 78 87100 
 
 37|41J44 ! 47 
 
 50i 53 57 62 
 
 68 75 83 93 107 
 
 40 444750 
 
 53 57 61 66 
 
 73 80 89100114 
 
 42| 47 50 53 
 
 5li CO 65 71 
 
 77 85' 94106121 
 
 45 505356 
 
 <JO (14 69 75 
 
 8l| 90100112128 
 
 47|525659 
 
 63 68 731 79 
 
 S6 115 1(15 IIS 135 
 
 50 555862 
 
 66f 71 77 83 
 
 91100111 125 143 
 
 52*5861 65 
 
 70 75 80 87 
 
 95105 116 13lll50 
 
 55 61 6468 
 
 :;; ;s s4 91100110122137157 
 
 57^641;; ;< 
 
 76 S2 8896104115127143164 
 
 60 w ;o;;> 
 
 so S5 92100109120133150171 
 
 82169 7378 
 
 83 89 96104113125139156178 
 
 <;.-> :> 7fl8i 
 
 SO 02 100 108'll8 130 144162185 
 
 67* 75 7! > S4 
 
 '.)<> 96 103 112 122 135 150 168193 
 
 70 7; 8281 
 
 9:1 loo 107 116 127 140 155 175:200 
 
 72|;80 85 90 
 
 96 103 111 121 131 145 161jl81 207 
 
 75 |83!88 ! 93 
 
 I00il07 115 125a36i50 1661187 214
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 67 
 
 DYE HOUSE. 
 
 To manufacturers who employ colored stock, the coloring may 
 be considered one of the most important applications connected 
 with their business. For upon the excellency of the colors, their 
 proper combination, and the economical use of the various drugs 
 and dyes tuffs, depends the reputation, as well as a large share 
 of the profits of the establishment; defective colors combined, or 
 a defective color or shade in a fabric, spoil its favorable effect and 
 good impressions quicker than most any other defect. That the 
 beauty, brilliancy, and brightness of the colors depend very much 
 upon the purity of the drugs and dye stuffs employed, and their 
 proper application, all must admit. The idea that some manu- 
 facturers entertain, that a cheap article of drugs and dyestuffs by 
 using a larger quantity of them, will equal a prime article, and 
 produce as good colors, at a less cost, is positively a wrong idea. 
 And no first-class dyer will say I am not right. In the first place 
 use the best drugs and dye stuffs. Secondly, employ a skillful 
 dyer who is capable of judging the qualities of his materials, as 
 to the quantity of pure coloring matter they contain, and thus he 
 will be able to use them prudently, and avoid unnecessary ex- 
 pense, and also who knows how his materials should be applied 
 to produce the desired color or shade without extra boiling. Boil- 
 ing wool is no process by which it is benefited for any purpose in 
 any fabric. A little boiling does not appear to have any material 
 bad effect, but an excessive boiling not only extracts the life from 
 the fibers, but causes them to full, and mat, and tangle together 
 and thus it will not card or work as well in any of the subse- 
 quent departments, consequently will not make as good cloth, thus 
 the idea is presented that the least boiling the wool is subject to in 
 this process, the better it is for it, and a skillful dyer will not 
 subject the wool to the boiling point, for any longer time than 
 is actually necessary. There are many of the so called " receipt 
 dyers" and who lack a knowledge of the chemical qualities and 
 affinities of the parts of drugs and dye stuffs, and providing 
 there should be a variation in the drugs, &c., which they were 
 using from those given in their receipt, and thus cause a variation 
 in the color or shade, then comes the boiling, they must throw 
 in a little more of some article arid boil, providing that article 
 don't produce the shade, throw in some other article and boil, and
 
 68 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 so on till the expected shade is perhaps obtained, or perhaps 
 not obtained. And if not obtained, when asked the reason, he 
 would respectfully say the fault was in such an article used or offer 
 some other excuse. Such workmen not only damage the stock, 
 but cannot be called profitable for manufacturers, but still areo'f 
 some profit to dealers in drugs and dye stuffs. Thirdly-have the 
 dye house constructed with a view to convenience, and supplied 
 with all the proper apparatus to facilitate the operations. These 
 three requisites fully complied with and there are no just reasons 
 for defective colors from the dye house. Sometimes there are 
 other agencies which the colors have to contend with, in some 
 one or more of the succeeding departments, and which will ope- 
 rate against them somewhat, when they are produced from the dye 
 house bright and beautiful. Among these agencies we find the 
 admixtures of various kinds of wastes, shoddies, cotton and flocks, 
 and the improper treatment in fulling and scouring. Shoddies, 
 generally are a dull mixture, if not a mixture, ure a faded color 
 or shade, being usually made from old rags, cast off garments, 
 &c. Wastes are also usually a mixture, though some wastes are 
 pretty good colors. When a mixture is desired in a cloth, some 
 wastes may be used with a proper stapled wool, and produce a 
 good mixture and a good fabric. Usually, the more wastes and 
 shoddies which are mixed in with our good colors, the more we 
 decrease their brightness and fullness. Some wastes can be dyed 
 and the color appear tolerably well, and when used to produce a 
 mixture, may be .made to appear quite well, if not used to excess 
 and. thus overbalance the better color. Also cotton has no natu- 
 ral affinity for fast colors ; although it can be colored quite bright 
 and bloomy, it has a very small power for retaining it, so that 
 for mixing with bright wool colors it has a tendency to tone them 
 down somewhat, and if not fast will stain them. A few flocks 
 properly applied to the backs of closely woven cloths, do not have 
 any material bad effect upon the colors. Quite often the person 
 who is intrusted with the flocking and fulling is neglectful, and 
 some of the flocks get upon the face of the cloths, and thus pro- 
 duce a bad effect upon the colors ; also when applied to cloths of 
 an open and slack weave, they are quite apt to work through on to 
 the face. Judgment and skill are required in the flocking and full- 
 ing. Sometimes the cloths are woven too wide (probably the de- 
 signer's fault), and thus they require to be exposed to the friction
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 69 
 
 of the fulling mill too long before they are reduced to the desired 
 width ; the exposure is apt to cause the colors to be started, so 
 that in the subsequent process of scouring, they are usually spoiled. 
 
 In these two processes of fulling and scouring, the colors are 
 generally subject to their severest tests. Sometimes the soap 
 is applied too hot, or too strong; (continued in finishing dept.) 
 there are also the natural elements of air, light, and water, so that 
 from these conclusions we learn that our dyer is not always to be 
 blamed for imperfect colors. But if they are not produced right 
 from the dye house, I know of no effectual method for helping 
 them in the other departments, except the cloth may be returned 
 after fulling and washing, and colored in the piece. Besides, the 
 injury to the wool Avhich may be caused by excessive boiling. 
 
 Caution should be exercised when using such chemicals as cop- 
 peras, oil and blue vitrols, and the various tin and iron solutions, 
 as they injure wool if not used very sparingly. A small quantity 
 too much is sure destruction. Some of the destructive influences 
 mentioned with which the colors have to contend, may be over 
 come somewhat, by having the colors fixed, that is, made fast by 
 the so called mordant or preparation process. 
 
 Materials to be dyed, of whatever nature, are seldom found 
 to have such an affinity for the dyes, &c., used that they will 
 retain them, and thus the necessity of applying the " mordant" 
 or remedy. Chemistry has discovered that there are certain sub- 
 stances, which will fix themselves permanently upon the fibre, 
 and then by uniting chemically with the color, fix that perma- 
 nently also; and this application is called as above, the "mor- 
 dant." It is sometimes the case that in thus combining with the 
 colors, the mordant modifies or alters their tones, and when hav- 
 ing that effect are usually called "alterants;" but the most per- 
 manent colors are produced by applying the mordant before the 
 coloring principles. A skillful dyer understands the chemicals 
 necessary to produce those changes. The variations which may 
 be produced, and the multiplicity of shades which arise by ^mix- 
 ing the portions of the various dyes and mordants, gives a wide 
 field for the study of cause and effect. 
 
 For those colors which contain alkali in the excess, soaps of a 
 fair strength have a tendency to brighten them, and when acids 
 are in the excess, the soap has a tendency to injure them ; and
 
 70 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 when acid colors are not totally spoiled, they may be restored 
 somewhat, by running them in a bath of oil of vitrol (sulphuric 
 acid), and water. Have the bath to taste a miFd sour. This can 
 be done the best usually in the scouring machine or washer in 
 the finishing room. Let off all the soapy water, and rinse out 
 the washer well, then let in the fresh water and add the acid ;i> 
 before mentioned, and run the cloth in it a few minutes. I have- 
 seen Nicolson blues, and some other analiue shades (completely 
 spoiled apparently by strong soap), completely restored by this 
 bath. 
 
 The art of fixing colors a id dyeing, is one of the most progres- 
 sive connected with manufacturing in America. What a pro- 
 gress since the days of Daniel Webster as he relates it. who, while 
 he was on his way to a new school in a new suit of homespun 
 blue, was overtaken by a shower, and the color washed from his 
 coat into his shirt. With the lapse of time the art will be better 
 understood than now. 
 
 CARDING ROOM . 
 
 As all manufacturers desire to make the best possible fabric 
 from the stock employed, and as it is subject to its first mechani- 
 cal operations in this department, it is very evident the result of 
 these operations will bear seriously upon the subsequent opera- 
 tions, and thus upon the fabric. Upon the uniformity of the rov- 
 ing, depends the uniformity of the spun yarn; upon the proper 
 intermixing, straightening and connecting of the fibers for the 
 roving, depends the smoothness, strength and elasticity of the 
 spun yarn. If the stock is minced and improperly mixed, the 
 roving will be short, uneven and nubby, and will not draw out 
 in spinning, and will make a fuzzy, .uneven, and feeble yarn 
 (which is not desired ;) thus stock which has passed through this 
 department, literally speaking, begins to assume the appearance 
 of yarn. And upon the quantity of yarn produced, depends to a 
 great extent the quantity of yards which will be produced from 
 the looms. And upon the quality of the yarn, depends to a great 
 extent, the quality and appearance of the fabric. Thus the rela- 
 tions and dependencies bearing upon this department, are of much 
 importance. The first important step is the preparation of the 
 stock, oiling, mixing, picking, &c., which takes place in the
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER, 71 
 
 PICKER ROOM. 
 
 The preparing of the stock, previous to its transfer to the card- 
 ing room, should usually be considered an important operation, 
 although some are not inclined to so consider it. Our best carders 
 usually give this branch of their department a reasonable share of 
 their attention, especially when various shoddies, wastes and cot- 
 ton are employed with better stock, or when two or more colors 
 are to be mixed to form a desired shade or mixture, or when some 
 of the shorter stapled wools, as some California or Mestiza are to 
 be used with longer staples. To mix the shorter staples of stock 
 in a proper manner, is almost an art ; any ordinary workman may 
 be able to card the various sorts of fleece wools, but to mix and 
 card the various admixtures, of short and long staples, and make 
 good work, and not make an unreasonable amount of waste, is 
 almost another occupation. 
 
 When short and long staples are to be used together, they should 
 be well mixed in the picking process; besides the regular picker 
 which is found in all woolen mills, some have a willowing ma- 
 chine, which is a very good machine to help in mixing. Long 
 stappled stock is employed to carry short stock ; but do not have 
 the longer stapled stock too coarse and hairy, as it will not carry 
 the shorter (staples) stock, as well as the middling or finer grades 
 
 The best and most even mixtures are produced by mixing a 
 shorter with a longer staple, providing neither are a very coarse 
 stock. Some will say, that a long coarse stapled wool will carry 
 more short stock than- a finer staple; I should say not, as the 
 coarser the stock is, the nearer it approaches the hair and is apt 
 to be curly. There will also be a less number of fibers in a yard 
 of yarn of the coarse, than if finer and not quite so long; and the 
 more fibers of fair length, the more short stock will be carried, 
 and make a strong, smooth yarn, as there will be more fibers of 
 the long stock to connect, as well as wind around the short stock, 
 and thus there will be less waste; still, there is such a thing as 
 overloading a lot of fair stapled stock with shorter stock, the re- 
 sult of which will be a large percentage of waste, (and waste is 
 waste), the waste thus obtained is not worthless stock, but it does 
 not form a profitable production, and the less of it is made the 
 better. The fourth and fifth qualities of fleece wools which
 
 72 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 have a pretty long staple, will carry more short stock than any 
 stock in the market. 
 
 Colored wools which are dyed with chip or ground woods, 
 should be run through the duster till the dyestuffs are effectually 
 cleaned out. When wool is to be mixed with colored cotton, they 
 should each be passed through the picking process before.mixiug. 
 Colored cotton is always very much matted and stuck together, 
 which is caused by its being so thoroughly wet in the dyeing pro- 
 cess. White cotton does not usually require to be picked before 
 mixing; also in apphing the oil to lots in which cotton is to be 
 mixed, apply the oil to the wool part of the mixture, and whip 
 it in thoroughly, and avoid oiling or wetting the cotton. If cotton 
 is to be used in a medium grade of goods, I think it is best to use 
 as much of it colored as possible; for wjsen white cotton specks 
 get into a piece of goods which contain one, or two or more colors, 
 they show very conspicuously ; and cotton specks show off to a 
 better advantage than wool specks. Colored cotton is said to con- 
 tain about 50 per cent, more combustive properties, than the 
 white or raAV material, and thus requires careful watching keep 
 from the sun's rays and steam pipes. 
 
 As is mentioned in the Dye House remarks, cotton has no nat- 
 ural affinity for fast colors, thus it has a very small power for retain- 
 ing them, so that cotton when colored and employed in a fabric 
 with the white, the color is apt to run from the colored and unite 
 with the white, just enough usually to stain it, so that unless the 
 color is fixed upon the cotton, a very difficult operation, it is best 
 not to use much white cotton in the same fabric. Wool is not 
 stained usually by cotton colors. When two or more colors or shades 
 are to be mixed in the stock to produce a certain shade, the finer 
 the stock employed the more even and better the mixture. A 
 1, and A 2, California and Mestiza wools, mixed with the 1st, 2d, 
 3d and 4th qualities of No. 1, X, or XX fleece wools, usually make 
 good mixtures as well as good yarn and cloth. The Spring clip 
 of California is usually a longer staple than the Fall clip, and will 
 make good cloth of itself; Fall clips being shorter, will not work 
 as well alone, and thus require the assistance of longer staples. 
 A 1, is the best, A 2, is the next, B next, and so on. Mestiza 
 wool is also known by A 1,^A 2, &c., is somewhat similar to Cal- 
 ifornia, as regards the length of staples, the latter is usually the
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTUEEB. 73 
 
 finest, and thus is heavier aud will shrink more in scouring, and 
 the market price is usually lower, but the great loss in scouring 
 usually makes it the most costly wool in the market for fulled 
 cloths. 
 
 Cape of Good Hope wool is sometimes employed for a fabric 
 upon which a thick fine nap is desired, or a velvet finish. Its staple 
 is usually not very strong. The finer grades of California and 
 Mestiza, are equal to any wools usually employed for fulled cloths, 
 for producing a velvet finish, or a thick nap, or a glossy finish. 
 
 The first quality of A. 1, Mestiza, of a fair staple, mixed with 
 the first quality of X or XX fleece, about half and half, makes 
 about the best stock for a black doeskin warp, thus showing that a 
 good yarn can be made, as good yarn is required for such cloths, 
 especially the black, glossy doeskin. There are also the burry and 
 very burrv California and Mestiza and Texas wools; the two for- 
 mer usually contain the small ring bur, the latter the large plum 
 bur. Of these two species the ring burs are the worst; they re- 
 semble a coil, as they may be unrolled and form a thread from 
 one to two inches in length, and if not separated from the stock 
 in the subsequent process of carding, will usually unroll and unite 
 with the yarn, and thus make bad work in spinning and weaving. 
 No manufacturer should attempt to use such wool, unless sup- 
 plied with a good bur picker. The burring process is by no 
 means of any assistance to the stock or staple; its tendency is to 
 tear the fibers. Wools which are very burry will usually lose from 
 5 to 15 per cent, in this process, which advances their cost so 
 much more. Wools to be burred should be bone dry, so as to 
 make the bur hard; thus it will be more easily severed from the 
 j stock, than when wet and soft. 
 
 Texas and Oregon wools are noted for their coarse long staples ; 
 j the finer qualities make good Scotch tweeds, and blankets, and 
 I will do for back filling to medium and low grades of cloth. 
 
 OILING WOOL. 
 
 The matter of oiling wool is of much importance. Good oil, 
 
 correctly applied, will be found to be a valuable assistant, through 
 
 all the departments. In the carding process, its tendency is to 
 
 straighten the fibers and thus help to connect them, and make a 
 
 10
 
 74 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 strong smooth yarn ; it also helps to make the strands even and 
 thus strong, also less flying or waste is made, also it keeps the 
 teeth or wires of the card clothing clean, thus good yarn is more 
 apt to be produced, with less waste, and which yarn will spin well 
 arid weave well. And in the finishing room, the oil will be easily 
 washed out of the fabric, without excessive application of strong 
 alkaline soap, which will neutralize and thus injure the colors, 
 especially those which are produced by acids, and some delicate 
 alkali colors or shades. An inferior oil will be found to operate 
 contrary to what is above mentioned. 
 
 Olive Oil stands highest in the ranks of wool oils, as well as 
 highest in price. Usually, a less quantity will answer for the same 
 amount of wool, than the lower order of oils, so that the cost may 
 be materially reduced nearly to the cost of a No. 1 lard oil, which 
 stands second in rank to the olive. And a really No. 1 lard oil is 
 quite good enough to apply to any grade or quality of wool ; also 
 a No. 2 lard oil if fully up to that number will not be much in- 
 ferior to the No. 1. We have another lard oil called the Saponi- 
 fied Eed Oil, and I think it is quite as good as a No. 2 lard. A 
 very good soap is easily made with it, thus showing its saponify- 
 ing qualities, and that it' will work well in the fulling and scour- 
 ing processes; also it works well in the carding process, and is 
 cheaper than a No. 2 lard. Use about 1 gallon to the 100 tbs. for 
 colored sorts from 4th quality and coarser, and finer qualities when 
 white; for finer than 4th quality colored, use 5 or 6 quarts to the 
 100 Ibs. This oil will not smell as well upon the stock while in 
 operation,as the olive and No. 1 and 2 lard oils ; but when 
 scoured and finished properly, no bad smell will be found. I also 
 think as an average it is more uniform than other lard oils, i. e., 
 it is not so often stuffed with inferior compounds, as is the case 
 with the higher grades. 
 
 Uniformity in oils is of very much importance, especially to the 
 finisher, who is able to regulate his soaps to a certain degree with 
 the hydrometer, and always produce clean cloths, without injur- 
 ing the colors, or giving the cloths the harsh and wiry feeling pro- 
 duced from a use of excessive alkali. An inferior No. 1 or 2 lard 
 oil, is a poor article indeed ; they may work tolerably well in all 
 dopartments except the finishing, when a soap will be required 
 to clean the cloths, strong enough to neutralize the colors, and 
 make the cloth feel harsh and wiry as stated above.
 
 WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 75 
 
 For using a No. 1 lard oil, apply about one quart to the lOOfbs. 
 less than for Saponified Eed Oil, or it may be reduced still more 
 and make good work, with the following mixture : 
 
 3 or 4lbs. of Borax, (the red preferred.) 
 
 2 Ibs. Sal Soda, 
 
 1 Barrel soft water. 
 
 Boil 45 minutes, and use about three quarts of the mixture 
 well mixed with three quarts of oil for 100 ft>s. of clean wool, or 
 more mixture and less oil. The above mixture is better if allowed 
 to stand a week before using. I would not advise the mixture 
 for use only when the stock is to be put upon the cards very soon 
 after it is applied ; or it would do very well for the self oiling 
 machines. For lots which are oiled and picked, and stored for a 
 week or more, the evaporation of the water, &c., will not leave 
 the stock in as good condition as clear oil. The mixture would 
 be a good one without the sal soda, its tendency is to soften the 
 staple and assist in scouring. Most people know the virtue of 
 Borax, what a good effect it produces upon the hair, making it 
 smooth, soft and glossy ; it has a similar effect upon wool and is 
 a valuable assistant in the carding process, and would be a good 
 mixture for any kind of oil. 
 
 ADULTERATED OIL. 
 
 The desire to adulterate oils, seems to be almost equal to the 
 desire of some of the manufacturers of woolen goods; sharp com- 
 petition prevailing the past few years, some unscrupulous dealers 
 have been tempted to offer staple oils, guaranteed strictly pure, at 
 less than the cost of production, and by adulterating are able to 
 obtain a margin of profit. Crude petroleum is found to be ben- 
 zined ; lard oil is adulterated with cotton seed oil, and sometimes 
 it contains acid ; lubricating oils are made heavy with rosin oil ; 
 therefore a test to detect the adulteration is much desired.* The 
 following method for testing lard oils for manufacturers, is about 
 if not quite equal to any yet known, as follows : Take a common 
 glass tumbler and fill about one-third full of melted scouring 
 soap, of pretty good strength, not much stronger than for using, 
 say two or three degrees hydrometer. (See finishing.) And add
 
 76 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTUE^f. 
 
 to this about another one-third of the oil, stir and mix well, and 
 then observe as follows : 
 
 A No. 1 lard oil, will yield a milky like mixture, and if allowed 
 to stand awhile, will not separate much if any, and if it appears 
 as above stated, it is a good article and will work through all de- 
 partments nicely. A No. 2 lard oil, will also appear something 
 like the No. 1, only there will arise at the surface small patches 
 which will not mix readily, and if allowed to stand awhile, the 
 soap and oil will separate very much. When either of the two 
 numbers have been adulterated much, they will not give so much 
 of the milky appearance, and will separate very quickly; and if 
 adulterated very much, Avill make a thick mass, similar to meal 
 and water. The writer saw an instance where it appeared as last 
 mentioned, but hundreds of yards of goods were damaged before 
 the matter was traced to the oil in the picker room. The goods 
 were damaged in the scouring, as they were washed with an ex- 
 cessively strong soap to start the grease ; the cloths being black 
 and white double and twist, were made cloudy, i. e., the grease 
 and color was started in some places, and set in others, giving the 
 so called cloudy appearance. Had that oil been tested it never 
 would have been applied, and the damage never happened. 
 
 The Saponified Red Oil will not yield a milky like mixture, 
 but will retain its reddish color ; yet it will mix and appear soapy, 
 and a few particles will arise at the surface. Should it be very poor, 
 it will thicken somewhat and curdle. We also have the Red and 
 Elaine oils, which are not so much used as the better grades, and 
 are usually applied to satinet stock, &c. 
 
 SPINNING ROOM. 
 
 This department the next in order is an important department ? 
 though should the stock not have been properly fitted, or properly 
 selected to meet the requisites intended, it is not liable to be im- 
 proved much by the process of spinning. Calculations are usually 
 made before the stock reaches this department, as to the size of 
 yarn required, and the stock is selected, and carded to meet the re- 
 quirements. But sometimes the stock is not qualified to spin to 
 the size desired, when it has been properly carded; in which case
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 77 
 
 it may be made to spin better, ami not to change calculations very 
 much, by altering the size of the yarn, that is, providing the stock 
 was proposed for an 8 run yarn, and it will not draw out to that size 
 without much trouble, by breaking when spinning, then perhaps 
 there may be an improvement made by making the yarn a little 
 heavier, by spinning 7^ runs fine, or a little heavier, and perhaps 
 it will then answer just as well for the fabric. Again, suppose 
 the stock was qualified, and not properly carded, then perhaps 
 the same alteration in the size of the yarn will make an improve- 
 ment, so that there is a little chance to correct defects in this 
 department. In this department, previous faults arising from 
 improper selections of stock, improper mixing and improper card- 
 ing will be first observed. 
 
 In this department as well as any of the others, the stock may 
 be improperly managed. Skill is required on the part of the 
 spinner who operates the jack, especially when fine yarn is in the 
 process. An unskillful workman may easily make bad work by 
 causing the threads to break upon the jack ; practice is' required 
 to operate a jack properly, after the theory is fully understood. 
 The self operating machines (rnules), are an improvement upon 
 the ordinary jack ; thus the fact is presented that to operate the 
 jack in a proper manner, it must be moved uniformly when draw- 
 ing out, the coarser the yarn is wanted the less drawing is usually 
 required; yet care is required as, well as for finer yarn. 
 
 The several twists to which yarns are submitted, are designated 
 as right, left, hard, slack, double and twist, three ply, four ply, 
 diamond, &c. These twists perform important services in a fab- 
 ric. Very many of the woven cloths are of the twill order, and 
 twists and twills are dependencies. When a good, smooth, round 
 right hand twill is Avanted, the warp yarn must be right twisted, 
 and for a good left hand twill have warp yarn left twisted. The 
 first sample of cloth, will serve to illustrate twills ; the her- 
 ringbone comprises two twills, the right hand side fronv the 
 point is a right twill, the left hand side from the point is a left 
 twill, so that to make the two twills perfectly, two twists are re- 
 quired; but the twists in the sample are both right hand, and 
 thus by observing it may be easily seen there is a difference in 
 their appearance ; the right hand side twill is smooth and round,
 
 78 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 while the left hand is more flat and riot as smooth ; the difference 
 would show more distinct if the herringbone was larger, so that 
 more of the twills could be seen. Also the yarn is very hard 
 twisted, so that there is less difference to be noticed. 
 
 The twist applied to the filling as regards right or left, does 
 not have any material effect upon the appearance of the face of 
 the goods, and some manufacturers think the twist of the filling 
 is of little importance whether a left or right twist. All know 
 that it is easier to make one twist continually, than to change 
 jack bands and change twists. Some manufacturers think a better 
 fabric is made by having the filling twisted contrary to the warp. 
 I have seen both plans tested and could not discern the least dif- 
 ference in their appearance or strength. 
 
 HARD TWIST. 
 
 A hard twisted yarn is made by subjecting the roving to an 
 extended length of time while receiving the twist on the jack, 
 thus making a hard finn thread; sometimes so much twist is put 
 in that the yarn will be kinky; the kinks may not be ob- 
 served till the yarn is being unwound from the bobbins when 
 spooling, or in the shuttle when weaving. By subjecting the 
 kinky yarn to a few minutes (in a box) steaming, the kinks will 
 be somewhat taken out. For cloths upon which the twill is to 
 show distinctly, or when several colors are combined and a close 
 finish is intended to show the pattern distinctly, the yarns which 
 ^predominate upon the face, either warp or filling, will require to 
 be hard twisted, as cloths which are to receive such a finish in 
 order to look well, clear and bright, are subject to considerable 
 gigging, and if not well twisted, the threads upon the face will 
 look raw and worn instead of smooth and bright. 
 
 SLACK TWIST. 
 
 Slack twist is the reverse of hard twist. Cloths upon which a 
 thick nap is desired, the yarn is usually a slack twist, as for chin- 
 chillas, velvet finish, &c., unless for a black glossy doeskin or beaver. 
 The extra amount of gigging applied to such cloths, requires a 
 well twisted, strong thread, thereby requiring less gigging to work 
 up the fibers necessary to produce the nap.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 79 
 
 . Yarns which are to be twisted with silk for a silk mixture, are 
 usually slack twisted, as when in the process of spinning them 
 together, the yarn receives more twist. Also the silk being usu- 
 ally a fine strong thread helps to strengthen them. Also the silk 
 will show more conspicuous in the finished cloh, when applied 
 to a medium slack twisted thread. When silk threads are applied 
 to warp yarns, it may be necessary to have the yarn well twisted, 
 so to make a good strong warp. 
 
 It is necessary to be very careful when making yarns for silk 
 mixtures, to have them uniform in size. Also when applying the 
 silk to have them evenly twisted, as silk mixed cloths show very 
 quickly if the silk twist is uneven. Usually in the second pro- 
 cess of spinning, when the silk is applied, considerable twist is 
 put in, as the more twist applied the more silk will be shown in 
 auy given space. 
 
 DOUBLE AND TWIST 
 
 Yarns are also hard and slack twisted. If the two threads which 
 form the twist are twisted very closely, the twist would be called 
 "hard;" and if not closely and firmly twisted, the twist would be 
 called "slack." The number of holes of twist applied to sucfr 
 yarns, may be ascertained by observing how many times the 
 threads are wound around each other in the space of an inch. As 
 for instance, if wound ten times in the space of an inch, it would 
 indicate that ten holes of twist had been applied. The applica- 
 tion of twist to yarns, will depend upon the style of goods to be 
 made; to make a firm cloth of double and twist, the yarn is usu- 
 ally well twisted. Also to make a good twill, twist the warp 
 yarns the same way of the. twill as though single. A double and 
 twist in the warp when very slack twisted, will not appear so reg- 
 ular and even in the goods as though hard twisted ; and if twisted 
 contrary to the twill, the cloths will appear a little uneven. The 
 style of some goods require such an uneven and irregular appear- 
 ance. 
 
 In some cases, when a somewhat peculiar and uncommon pat- 
 tern is desired, only one or two holes of twist to the inch is ap- 
 plied to the warp, and in the cloth thus made, the colors compos- 
 ing the twist will appear irregular ; sometimes one color will show
 
 80 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 for the space of one-half an inch, then the next color appears the 
 same. Sometimes the filling is twisted the same when it is de- 
 sired to appear irregular; but such twists are more commonly 
 applied to the warp. Another twist may be made in th>; tilling, 
 by winding two differently colored yarns upon a bobbin, and when 
 in the process of weaving and the two threads are unwinding, they 
 will form a very slack twist and make a peculiar appearance. 
 
 THREE-PLY, 
 
 Three threads twisted together, is also made hard and slack 
 twisted. Sometimes a double and twist of bright colors may re- 
 quire to be toned down so as not to appear quite so prominent ; 
 then by twisting another thread around them of a more somber 
 color or shade, the brilliancy will be somewhat modified. Some- 
 times twists are used more especially to obtain weight, or in warp 
 when a cord, or twilled stripe, or a feather, or a herringbone is to be 
 made in a combination, with a ground Avork of single yarn, then 
 by having the warp threads which are to produce the coid, twill- 
 ed stripe, &c., made of double and twist, they will show more prom- 
 inent, and will be somewhat raised from the ground weave. 
 
 DIAMOND TWIST, 
 
 Sometimes called braid, is made by having either a single, a 
 double and twist, or a three-ply thread twisted with another 
 thread, either a double and twist or single, twisted to the opposite. 
 Thus the thread contains two twists, and appears diamond shaped, 
 or something like braiding; and when used with two, three or 
 more different colored threads, it makes a peculiar and uncom- 
 mon twist. Sometimes the last thread or threads applied, are 
 wound around very loosely which is usually called "lapping/' 
 and when applied thus tends to appear rather more peculiar.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 81 
 
 {|o Calculate fec^ and ^ eights o)f |]ams 
 
 Se 
 
 In order to manufacture cloth in a scientific and systematic man- 
 ner, by and with the use of various sizes and weights of yarn, it 
 has been found necessarv to devise some method by which both 
 the sizes and weights may be calculated and known ; and to meet 
 this necessity, the spinner's table was originated, which is based 
 upon weight. A given number of yards of spun yarn in order to 
 be of a certain size, must weigh a certain specified weight. These 
 various sizes of yarn are called runs; 1 run, 2 runs, 2 runs and 
 so on. The No. 1 run (or size), is the basis or starting point as 
 speaking of the fineness, and is the largest size for which a weight 
 is usually given. 1600 yards of number one rnn yarn weighs one 
 pound avoirdupois (7,000 grains); 1600 yards of any sized yarn 
 makes 'a run ; but the weight of the run determines what number 
 run the varn is, or the size. 
 
 The following table for calculating the size of yarns, will be 
 found a correct and convenient method, and is a calculation for 
 50 yards. As calculations can as readily be made from 50 yards 
 us 1600 yards, the surest method is to take 10 bobbins from differ- 
 ent parts of the jack, and reel off 5 yards from each for the trial, 100 
 yards would be required to weigh twice as many grains as speci- 
 fied in the table. There are yarn beams with the runs and frac- 
 tional parts given for a certain number of yards, in which case 
 the table would not be so valuable. But the apothecary scales 
 are a surer balance than any other. As I have seen a cons^dera- 
 ble variation between two of the first" mentioned balances, and a 
 little variation makes quite a difference in the size of yarns, and a 
 little variation in weight with 25 or 50 yards, foots up pounds in 
 a few thousand yards. 
 
 11
 
 82 
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 SPINNINGS TABLE. 
 
 s I "= 5 is 
 
 1 i I i I I 
 
 1 ! 218f 3 I 73 |5 I 43f 7 314 
 
 14175 34 67 '54 41f 74 30 
 
 14146 34 6245| 394. .7*1 29 I 
 
 If 125 3f 58 of 38 7f 28 
 54f 6 3d4 8 
 
 274 
 
 2 j!09 
 
 24! 97 _, 
 
 2| 87^4-J 4846| 33f:8| [ 25f 
 
 2f 79ij4f ; 46" 6fi 324.j8f; 25 
 
 44 ! 514641 35 84! 26^104 
 "10| 
 
 9f 
 10 
 
 24411 20 13 16f 
 23fll4 194134: 164! 
 23 114 19" 134 16| 
 
 224 llf 18fl3f 
 2l|l2 
 
 20fl2i 174.15 
 20^12| 17|l6 
 
 16 
 16f 
 
 15 , 
 
 13 
 
 For estimating double and twist yarns, add together the grains 
 opposite the number of each size used, their sum will be the 
 weight opposite the size to which they belong. 
 
 EXAMPLES. 
 
 6 runs, 364. grains. 
 4 runs, 54f grains. 
 
 6 runs, 364. grains. 
 
 8 mns, 27j grains. 
 
 10 runs, 2 If grains. 
 
 Against those grains in the 
 table, we find the yarn would 
 be on the heavy side of 24; 
 runs, i. e. between 2 and 2, 
 nearer 24. runs. 
 
 Against those grains in the 
 table, we find the yarn would be 
 on the light side of 24 runs. 
 
 These calculations will be somewhat imperfect, as the weight of 
 the twist Avill depend somewhat whether they are hard twisted or 
 slack twisted. Hard twist weighs the most. The surest method 
 would be to weigh the twist, after the desired twist has been ap- 
 plied. 
 
 1600 yards makes 1 run of the clock attached to the jack (by 
 which spinners are usually paid for their labor), without regard 
 to the size of the yarn, so that providing there was no clock at- 
 tached to the jack, the runs for the spinner could be determined 
 by weight very correctly. Spinners if so disposed, can oprmic 
 upon the clock, so that it will represent that several runs have 
 been made, while in reality the jack has not been drawn out, nor 
 a yard of yarn been spun ; this operation upon the clock is called
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 83 
 
 " pumping." By understanding the spinner's table this operation 
 may be detected ; for the size of yarn, and the weight of yarn 
 spun having been known, the number of runs for the clock may 
 be calculated. 
 
 The following table shows how many runs for the clock will be 
 made, from one pound of spun yarn of the various sizes; it also 
 shows how many more yards of yarn may be made from one 
 pound of stock when fine and drawn into a fine thread, as every 
 1 run for the clock makes 1600 yards of yarn, same as 1600 
 threads of one yard in length each. 
 
 SPINNING- TABLE.-EXTENDED." 
 
 RUNS. I 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
 14 
 
 1 1600 ! 3 
 li 2000 3J- 
 U ^400 3* 
 If 2800^ 3| 
 
 2 : 3200 4 
 2i 3600i 4i 
 2| 4000 i 4| 
 2f 4400 ! 4f 
 
 3 14800 5 
 3i J5200 5^ 
 3^ :5600| 5l 
 3| 6000i 5f 
 
 4 6400i 6 
 4i 6800J 6| 
 4i |7200l 6| 
 4f |7600i 6f 
 
 8000' 
 8400! 
 8800J 
 9200! 
 9600S 
 
 10000; 
 6| 10400; 
 
 6f llOSOOi 
 
 The above table is also an extension of the spinning table, and 
 shows that the word run has two definitions. We say a yarn is 4 
 runs when speaking of its size; the same 4 runs also says, that 
 one pound of that size makes 4 runs for the clock, and 6400 yards 
 of yarn same as 6400 threads of 1 yard in length each. The above 
 might be extended to 16 runs, but is sufficient to explain the idea 
 intended. By referring to the table, the number of runs to the 
 pound of the various sizes of yarns are given ; and by weighing 
 each set of bobbins spun, the runs may be calculated as follows : 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 There was spun on the jack 100 Ibs. net of 4 run warp, how many runs 
 for the clock ? 100 Ibs. x 4, as 1 ft. of that size makes 4 runs, = 400 runs 
 answer. 
 
 Suppose the several sets of yarn weighs 120i Ibs. and the size 3J runs, 
 how many runs for the spinner?
 
 84 AMEEICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTUREE. 
 
 3Jruns to the pound. 
 
 36U 
 
 391f, ans. 
 
 As yarns sometimes are on the heavy or light side of regular 
 sizes, calculations must be made Avhich will average accordingly. 
 
 The apothecary scales will be found very serviceable when mak- 
 ing a mixture. JS"o rule can be given or table arranged, by which 
 a good mixture of two or more colors or shades may be united to 
 form another color or shade, unless the different colors or shades 
 are represented by colored (stock) samples. If a copy is to be 
 taken from a mixture, some idea of the colors or shades of the 
 combination may be formed, and then use the scales as follows : 
 Suppose, a West Point cadet mixture is desired and we have a 
 sample of the cloth ; by a close examination there appears to be 
 three colors or shades, blue, yellow olive and red claret; the blue 
 predominates, the yellow olive and red claret appear about equally 
 divided, so that we will weigh 10 grains of the blue, and 5 grains 
 each of the yellow olive and red claret; and to mix these colors 
 we will use a pair of cotton hand cards (or strippers), and will < 
 mix them thoroughly, and compare with sample. Should the 
 mixture be Avhat is desired, then use grains for pounds and lay 
 out stock accordingly. Or should the mixture not be shaded 
 right, add more or less of the colors as desired, and keep account 
 of the grains. Should the cloth finish as desired, then the colors 
 or shades may'be arranged in a book for that purpose, with the 
 pounds of each taken, and if making many mixtures, by keeping 
 account of the various shades and colors, we can have a perfect 
 table to refer to. 
 
 These scales will also be found very convenient for weighing 
 and calculating the weight per yard for cloths, when only a small 
 sample of the cloth is obtainable. The following table is arranged 
 for weighing one square inch, and is based upon 27 inches wide.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 85 
 
 TABLE FOR UUOLUDK THE WEIGHT OF CLOTHS FROM A SQUARE INCH, 
 
 j Grains. 
 
 Ounces. 
 
 Grains. ' Ounces. Grains. Ounces. 
 
 Grains. 
 
 Ounces. 
 
 1 
 
 2, 2 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 9 ! 20 
 
 13 
 
 28*0 : 
 
 2 
 
 4,'. 
 
 6 
 
 m 
 
 10 ! 22 
 
 14 
 
 31 i ; 
 
 3 
 
 6,". 
 
 7 
 
 15 a 5 o 
 
 11 i 24*, 
 
 15 
 
 33,1, 
 
 4 
 
 8, 9 
 
 8 
 
 Hi 
 
 12 | 26A 
 
 16 
 
 35, 5 
 
 Suppose ytm have a sample of cloth, and you wish to know 
 how many ounces a yard of the cloth will weigh of three-quarters 
 width ; cut from the sample one square inch and weigh with the 
 scales. Opposite the grains in the next column will be found 
 the average weight per yard in ounces and the fractional parts. 
 As for instance, suppose a square inch weighs exactly 5 grains, 
 then one yard of cloth of 27 inches wide same as the sample, will 
 weigh 11 ounces. For 6 quarters wide, double the ounces above 
 given. 
 
 Connected with this department usually is the spooling and 
 dressing of the yarn. 
 
 SPOOLING. 
 
 Care should be taken when the yarn is being spooled, to have 
 the ends securely tied, and have the vibration when various guides 
 are used correctly adjusted, so that the spools will be wound 
 evenly from the bobbins, and thus the spools will unwind evenly 
 in the dressing process, which is of much importance. 
 
 DRESSING. 
 
 This is a process by which the yarns are arranged for produc- 
 ing the patterns, and great care should be taken to have them 
 arranged properly, and also to have the various sections reeled 
 equally alike as regards tension, and avoid letting threads run 
 loosely, and have the lease cords correctly put in. And when the 
 yarn is sized, be sure and have the cylinders sufficiently heated to 
 dry the yarns; for perhaps by letting them be improperly dried 
 and not woven very soon, the yarn will get mildewed. When 
 winding the yarns from the reel upon the warp beam, have the 
 tension to all the sections as near alike as possible.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 YARN TABLE, 
 
 Showing the weight per yard, for various numbers and sizes of threads of 
 warp and filling. In the left hand column find the size of yarn, and at 
 the right in the column headed by ounces, will be found the number 
 of threads required in one yard, to produce the weight mentioned. 
 
 Runs. 
 
 1-10 
 Oz 
 
 Oz 
 
 Oz 
 
 Oz ' Oz Ox Oz 
 
 Oz ; Oz Oz Oz 
 
 11 12 13 14 15 16 
 Oz Oz i Oz Oz I Oz \ Oz 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 8* 
 
 10 
 
 g 
 
 s 
 
 100 
 
 21X1 
 250 
 300 
 
 200 
 KXI 
 .500 
 600 
 650 
 
 300 400 500 600: 700 800 9001000 
 600i 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000 
 750 i 1000 1250 1.VXI 1750 2000 2250 2500 
 900J1200 1500 1800 2100 210027003000 
 975 1300 1625 1950 2275 2600 2925 3250 
 
 1100 1200 1300 1400'l500 i 1600 
 2200 2400 fiOO 28(X) 3(XX) 3200 
 2750 3000 3250 350 3750 4000 
 3300 3600 3900 4200 4500 4800 
 3575 3900 422.5 4550 1875 5200 
 
 35! 350 700 105011400 1750 2100 2150 28(X) 3150 3500 3850 4200 4550 4!XX) 52m 5iiiin 
 
 37: 375 750 1125 15IK> 1S75 2250 2025 3000 8875 8750 4125 15oO 1S75 5250 5fi25 fiOOO 
 
 40 400 8IMI 1200 |r,00 20011 '.MOO 2800 3200 3(iOO 4(XX) 44IH) 4H(X) 52(X) 5ti(X) 6000 
 
 42 425 8W1875 17002125 2550 2975 84QOi88S5 1250 u;75 5iOo 5525 5950 
 
 45i 450, 900!l350il800 2250 2700 3150 3f,oo 10.50 1500 l-.i50 5400 5850: 
 
 47 475 9.50 1425 1900 2375 2850 3325 :iS(X) (275 1150 5225 5700 6175 
 
 50 500 1000 1500 2(XK) 2.500 3000 3500 4000 451X1 5000 5.500 6000 
 
 52 525 1050 1575 2100 2fi25 3150 3*175 1200 1725 5250 5775 ' 
 
 55 550 1 100 ir,50 2200 2750 :;::nil 3S.50 I too 11150 5500 ti()5o 
 
 57 575 1150 1725 2300 2S5 3150 1025 4HOO 5175 5750 
 
 (10 (KM) 120IP I SOI I 2100 3000 3000 1200 (SCO 5100 (iOOOj 
 
 ti2 625 12.iO 1875 2.500 3125 3750 (375 50HO 5(125 0250! 
 
 65 650 1300 l!)50 2600 3250 3!HX) 1550 52IX) 5850 ; 
 
 67 675 1350 2025 2700 '5375 HI50 172.5 5100 6075' 
 
 70 700 1 toe 2100 -.'silo :j.^ K ) 421X1 4!XK) 5600 6300 
 
 72 725 1450 2175 2!XI 3<i25 4350 5075 5800 
 
 75 ; 750 1500 2250 3000 3;.50 4500 52.50 6000 
 
 77 775 1550 2325 3100 3875 1650 5425 (5200 
 
 80 800 1600 2400 3200 4000 4800 5600| 
 
 82 825 1651 1 2 175 3300 1125 1H.50 5775! 
 
 85 850 1700 255!) 3100 42.50 5100,5950! 
 
 87 875 175U 2025 3500 1375 5250 6125 i 
 
 90 900 1800 270(i 31100 150051006300 
 '92 925 18502775 371x1 16255550! 
 
 95' 950 1900 2850 3800 4750 5700 
 
 97 975 1950 292.5 .7.100 1875 5850 
 100 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 
 lOSJOoO 2100 31. VI 4200 5250 6300 
 110 1100 2200 3300 4400 5500 
 115 1150 2300 3450 4600 5750 
 120 1200 2400 3600 4800 6000 
 
 The preceding yarn table will be found to assist very much 
 when proposing yarns for warp or filling when a certain weight 
 per yard is desired, and the size of the yarn is known, or when a 
 certain weight is desired, and the number of threads are known to 
 find what size yarn will produce the desired weight, &c. The 
 second column from the left, shows how many threads are required 
 per yard of a certain size, to weigh 1-10 of an ounce. 
 
 . Suppose a warp of 2000 threads of four run yarn is 
 proposed; how many ounces per yard will there be of that size 
 yarn ? By referring to four run yarn in a column opposite will 
 be found 2000 threads, and at the head of that column stands the 
 figure 5, denoting five ounces.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 87 
 
 Suppose a doeskin warp is desired of 6 run yarn, with 2350 
 ends in the warp ; what weight will be a yard of warp yarn ? Op- 
 posite 6| runs in the fourth column, we find 1950 ends weigh 
 three ounces, and in the column headed ,0 of an ounce, we find 
 that 65 threads weigh / of an ounce, so that in 400 ends we get 6 
 of the 65 threads and 10 over, so that the warp would be on the 
 heavy side of 3? ounces. For filling, suppose we wish to weave a 
 cloth 36 inches wide in the loom, and intend to put in 70 picks 
 per inch of five run yarn, what will be the weight of a yard of the 
 filling. First multiply the width 36 inches by 70 picks per inch, 
 and we find there will be 2520 threads, and opposite 5 runs in the 
 sixth column we find 2500 threads weigh 5 ounces, so that 2520 
 threads will weigh on the heavy side of 5 ounces per yard. 
 
 The weights of yarn, &c., as given in the table will answer as 
 a starting point, as a very correct idea may be formed of the va- 
 rious sizes and numbers of threads required to produce a certain 
 weight. But these weights will always fall short a little, (as was 
 mentioned in part first, answer to question No. 8,) for when the 
 warp and filling are united, the yarn for each is taken up in the 
 weaving process, so that a yard of the cloth when woven, will 
 weigh from one to three ounces more than the yarn calculations, 
 as per table. The taking up of the warp will be controlled by the 
 size of, and the number of picks of filling applied ; and the tak- 
 ing up of the filling depends upon the number of threads in the 
 warp and the size of yarn. Also listing threads which are usually 
 about one run, increase the loom weight as per table ; 10 threads 
 of one run yarn weighs ^ of an ounce, so that 50 threads of list- 
 ing of one run yarn weighs an ounce. The weights as per table 
 will come nearer the finished weight, providing no flocks are ap- 
 plied, as there is a reduction in weight in the milling, scouring, 
 (extracting the oil), gigging and shearing, so that calculations 
 made from the table, will come very near to finished weights when 
 no flocks are used. Thus the fact is presented that the loom 
 ' yards and weights, will be the safest to make the estimation* for 
 the cost of the stock, &c., which is hereafter explained.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 WEAVING ROOM. 
 
 This department is considered by some manufacturers to be 
 most important of all. All must admit it is of much importance. 
 The stock is here gathered and the various colors, qualities, and 
 quantities, are united respectively and made to assume the appear- 
 ance of a fabric. The stock has been selected to make the 
 required size of warp, perhaps ornamented with a color or shade, 
 reduced to yarn, and finally appears at the loom. In the mean 
 time the other requisite (the filling) is in process. The stock 
 having been selected, perhaps ornamented as was the warp, 
 reduced to yarn, and appears already to be united with the warp, 
 and as they are here united so must they remain. Thus two 
 important points may be clearly determined, which are to have 
 the warp made conformable to meet all the requirements, such as 
 operating evenly and smoothly, and without unnecessary break- 
 ing, and delay, and also to have the loom properly adjusted so 
 that the filling will be properly applied to suit the demands of 
 the warp and fabric, and thus avoid making many of the imperfec- 
 tions which often occur in this process by the omission of proper 
 attention in these directions. Another important point is to have 
 skillful loom fixers, and operators who are capable of keeping the 
 essential parts in proper running order, so that a large production 
 of yards may be obtained ; the production of woven yards is of 
 great importance. A large production shows that the preceding 
 departments have each made good use of their time in furnishing 
 the required stock necessary to bring forth a large production. 
 The larger the production of yards from the looms the less will be 
 the average cost per yard for nearly all the expenses connected 
 with the business excepting the expenses for stock and selling 
 goods, as all estimations for the cost of goods are made upon a 
 yard and by the yards woven. In weaving the cloths it is very 
 important that they be made the proper width in the loom, so as 
 to receive the proper felting without being subjected to the fric- 
 tion, and wearing of the fulling mill, (in next department,) to an 
 unnecessary length of time, before they are reduced to the desired 
 width. Cloths which are of an open or slack weave, or made 
 with much slack twisted yarn usually require less time in the 
 fulling process, than those of hard twisted yarns and firmly woven
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 89 
 
 cloths. The former would usually be made wider than the latter 
 when much fulling is desired. Also cloths vyhich are heavily 
 loaded with cotton should be made narrower, as cotton is not a 
 felting material. 
 
 Generally speaking, cloths which are loaded with much short 
 stock will not full as much as good wool; some goods demand 
 much felting to bring them up to the desired style and finish- 
 Sound judgment is required on the part of the- designer, to bring 
 the goods to the proper width, weight, &c., in the loom, to meet 
 the requirements of a well finished fabric; and thus it may be 
 safely stated that a part of the finishing is really applied in the 
 weaving. Probably in no other department is the close attention 
 of a skillful overseer so much required, as in this. 
 
 With many manufacturers, a custom has been established in 
 favor of the weaver, which is to allow them to leave out a few picks 
 per inch of filling, as for instance, a piece of cloth is to be woven 
 with 60 picks of filling ; the price per yard for 60 picks may be 
 six cents, and the weaver instead of putting in those 60 picks, ac- 
 cording to custom, puts in 56 or perhaps 50 ; there will be a sav. 
 ing of a little filling, and a little rise in the cost of weaving, as 
 the cost of weaving 55 picks would be about a quarter of one cent 
 less. This custom may be well enough, but there are always some 
 to take advantage of a little privilege. I have known weavers who 
 Avere paid for 40 picks, to actually leave out 10 picks to the inch 
 in some parts of a cut, and the consequence of such uneven weav- 
 ing, is cockled and imperfect finished cloth. Such a weaver is 
 committing a dead fraud upon his employer. Such weaving is 
 more apt to be carried on when the weave room is not well sup- 
 plied with a competent overseer, who is capable of judging such 
 cloth at sight, when perching or looking over. 
 
 Care should also be taken to have the yarn correctly drawn 
 into the heddles, and also into the proper reed and correctly, and 
 also use good heddles. The improved heddles made by Messrs. 
 Hertle & Thompson, (see" card, part third), are a superior article. 
 Any improvements which tend to increase the production of 
 yards from the looms arc of much importance, providing the 
 cloths are suitably finished, properly designed, and all other re- 
 quisites fully complied with necessary to produce a good fabric, 
 for which a good pric^ may be obtained, and a profit realized. 
 ' 12
 
 90 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 FINISHING ROOM. 
 
 The next, and usually the last in the series of departments con- 
 nected with the manufacturing appears this department, and as 
 with all the others it is of great importance. For, providing the 
 stock was properly selected, colored, and treated in all the other 
 departments, and appears in this room in the form of a perfect 
 unfinished fabric, by improper treatment it may be almost entirely 
 spoiled. A good and suitable finish applied to any manufactured 
 article, has a tendency to improve its general appearance and sell- 
 ing qualities. 
 
 The leading and principal department for some cloths is the 
 finishing, especially for highly finished face cloths. A good finish 
 will also very often remedy defects resulting from improper opera- 
 tions in some other department. The various processes to which 
 the cloths are subjected in this department, each require care, 
 good judgment and skill. 
 
 FULLING. OR FELTING AND FLOCKING. 
 
 Upon the fulling or felting process, depends very much .the 
 compactness and good handling qualities of the fabric. There 
 are two important senses called into use when a sample of cloth 
 is displayed, and which ttre the principal senses used for judging 
 nicely of any performance or production, namely, seeing and feel- 
 ing. If a fabric is composed of color or colors, they may make a 
 favorable impression upon the mind through the eye by being 
 clear, bright, well arranged and combined. But these favorable 
 impressio'ns may be greatly diminished by a sleazy, harsh, and 
 infirm feeling. 
 
 A closely united and firm fabric will depend very much upon 
 a proper fulling, i. e., providing it was properly woven, so that 
 the proper fulling may be applied, and the clearness and bright- 
 ness of the color or cojors, depend very much upon the scouring, 
 gigging, and also somewhat upon the fulling, i. e., providing they 
 were produced from the dye house correctly, and were not im-
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 91 
 
 paired by mixing wiih other and worthless colors. Care should be 
 taken when flocks are liberally applied, not to have them get upon 
 the face of the cloths ; also cloths of an open or slack weave, when 
 they are not correctly applied, they will work through and show 
 upon the face. Flocks are not an article which improve the appear- 
 ance of colors or the face of cloths generally, their tendency is to 
 improve the handling qualities when applied in reasonable quan- 
 tities, and also their weight. 
 
 APPLYING SOAPS. 
 
 Care should be taken when applying soaps. To apply soaps in 
 fulling and scouring processes in a scientific, economical and sys- 
 tematic manner, the strength of the solution when being prepared 
 for use, should be regularly tested by the Hydrometer (Twaddle's), 
 especially for scouring ; and when the proper, degrees of strength 
 which will meet the required demand, and the best soap have been 
 determined, then a certain degree of strength may be regularly 
 applied, and thus clean cloths will be produced without injuring 
 stock or colors. There are also many kinds of soaps made and 
 used for fulling and scouring purposes, some of which have been 
 found injurious to stock and colors, and which will be referred to 
 hereafter. 
 
 The application of soap in the fulling process, depends some- 
 what upon the methods adopted. Some manufacturers full in 
 the grease, (i. e., full the cloths before scouring), others full clean, 
 (i. e., full the cloths after scouring.) Most of our manufacturers 
 who bear the reputation of making the finest and best grades full 
 clean ; this process requires a third process which is washing, and 
 thus more time and labor is required, and no doubt it is for that 
 reason that the later method is not more commonly adopted. In 
 most cases for either method, the soap (solution) employed for 
 fulling, does not require a strength of alkali sufficient to sustain 
 even one degree of the Hydrometer ; but the soap should be a 
 pure, good bodied soap, which will unite with the stock, relax the 
 oil, and moisten the fabric thoroughly and .thus support the felt- 
 iug. Care must be taken not to apply too much soap, (especially
 
 92 .AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 when fulling with the rotary mills), so as to produce a lather and 
 cause the rollers to slip on the pieces and wear them, instead of 
 drawing them between the rollers and thus produce the required 
 friction and heat, necessary to produce a good felt. Cloths fulled 
 clean will also take flocks better than when fulled in the grease. 
 
 When fulling in the grease, the same care should be taken not 
 to use too much soap, nor have it too hot or too strong, and the 
 same (neutral) pure good bodied soap is the best for this method, 
 (as well as the other), as the felting principles are alike. Some- 
 times when the cloths are closely woven, and do not contain deli- 
 cate colors or shades, as the beaver, doeskin, &c., one degree of 
 alkaline strength may be applied without injury, and in some cases 
 where much waste is used, one. degree may be required to start 
 the grease a little, and also start the felting. Generally when a 
 degree or more of strength (alkali) is applied in the fulling, less 
 strength is required for scouring; and when the grease is well 
 started in fulling, care must be taken when scouring. It would 
 be best to commence washing with the water moderately warm 
 in the washer, and let the cloths run in that until the soap and 
 grease are well loosened before the cold water is let in. It is gen- 
 erally considered that one degree of strength applied in the fulling, 
 is about the same as 2 or 2-i degrees applied in scouring, as regards 
 starting the grease and colors; thus the fact is presented that it 
 is body and ability required in the fulling soap, and not the 
 strength of alkali to produce the best results. 
 
 As has been previously mentioned, care should be taken to have 
 the cloths made a proper width in the loom, so that they may not 
 be exposed to the friction, pulling and wearing of the fulling mill, 
 to an unnecessary space of time, as the rotary mills more com- 
 monly in use at the present day, are rather more trying to the 
 strength of cloths than the old fulling stocks. I have seen cloths 
 made from good fleece wool, and well woven, and apparently 
 strong, made tender in the process of fulling in the rotary mills, 
 owing to their having been set too wide in the loom, and thus re- 
 quired too much pulling and wearing before they were fulled to 
 the required width ; and cloths from the same warp were fulled 
 with the fulling stocks and came out strong and perfectly felted. 
 The pieces should be overhauled occasionally during the milling- 
 process, and stretched width-ways so a to avoid mill' creases,
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 93 
 
 which make a very bad imperfection, us they extend length- 
 ways and thus are liable to damage several yards in succession. 
 
 Cloths which are to be flocked in the fulling mill, should have 
 the edges sewed or tacked with strong twine length-ways, at regu- 
 lar intervals of two or three feet, with their face inside, which 
 will keep the flocks from the face of the goods. There have been 
 several machines invented for applying flocks to cloths on the 
 brushing principle. These machines have not thus far proved a 
 success. For one piece of three quarter goods from 30 to 35 yards 
 in length, weighing from 11 to 13 ounces per yard in the flannel 
 from 2 to 24 pails full of soap will usually wet the pieces sufficient- 
 ly to start the fulling ; for heavier, wider, and closely woven cloths, 
 apply soap accordingly. The soap should be applied, slowly, 
 evenly, and moderately warm. 
 
 SCOURING OR WASHING. 
 
 Cloths in this process are usually treated to a liberal application 
 of soap, and sound judgment is required in the person who is 
 entrusted to make this application, as it should be in a skillful 
 and economical manner. As there are many kinds of soaps, man- 
 ufactured and used for this process, the same desire seems to 
 prevail among soapmakers, as among other manufacturers and 
 dealers, viz : the desire to adulterate. And thus it remains with 
 the consumer to devise ways and means to detect the honesty of 
 the soapmaker. Among the soaps in use we have the so called 
 neutral soap, containing a good body, and ability, and which is 
 the safest, most reliable, and economical soap for fulling, and a 
 soap which contains those two essential qualities will also be 
 found equally as good for scouring, as the same soap will be able 
 to carry a great quantity of alkali when it is required, and still 
 have a surplus oflbody and ability remaining to facilitate the ope- 
 rations. There are also other soaps for which no name can be 
 given, some of which are heavily loaded with rosin, clay, ivater, 
 sal soda, soda ash, salt, &c., and as one soapmaker has said with 
 lightning; some one or two of the above mentioned articles may 
 be required to form the alkali which is required. It may well
 
 ' 94 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 and truly be said, that the colors are usually put to their severest 
 test in this process, and we may also say the stock sometimes. 
 Rosin and clay are not articles which have a tendency to benefit a 
 woolen fabric in any shape or form, (water will be referred to 
 hereafter,) soda ash is not an article to be recommended for gene- 
 ral use upon cloths Avhich are made of good stock, with various 
 colors and shades, as when used in liberal quantities it is excess- 
 ively severe upon both stock and colors, and has a tendency to 
 make the cloths feel harsh and wiry, and destroy the colors or 
 tone them down very much Sal soda, (soda ash ammoniaized) 
 is far more excellent or desirable than any other of the alkaline 
 materials generally used, its tendency is to make the cloths feel soft, 
 and is not severe upon colors when used moderately and properly; 
 salt is not an article- which is to be recommended for general use 
 as an alkali, it contains soda and muriatic acid, (more soda than 
 acid, and more water than either.) Again saUsoda, soda ash, 
 and salt may be obtained at a less cost than by paying the usual 
 soap prices for them, as we do when buying them in some of the 
 heavily loaded scouring soaps. I think this article of soap which 
 appears in the class of necessary supplies is often overlooked by 
 many of the manufacturers, and is not very well understood by 
 many of their finishers. And as manufacturers generally depend 
 upon their finishers for their reports upon them, it may be well 
 enough for them to be sure that said finishers are capable of 
 judging in a scientific manner of their essential qualities and 
 abilities. There are many finishers who make up their soap 
 solutions by guess vvork, or perhaps by the taste of it, to decide its 
 strength, which is guess work. A cook may be able to flavor a 
 soup by the sense of tasting, but it is no rule for a finisher to go 
 by. Again some finishers will use about the same number of 
 pounds of soap for a boiling (solution) and pay no attention to its 
 qualities and will add about the usual weight or amount of sal 
 soda or soda ash, whether it may happen to be a pure and neutral 
 or a heavily charged alkali soap, and then if th colors are injured 
 condemn the soap, or if the cloths are not produced clean con- 
 demn the soap, and if the grease is not easily started keep apply- 
 ing the soap till it does start; such methods are applying the 
 profits of an establishment to the trench. Again some finishers 
 think they must use both sal soda and soda ash, and if they get
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 95 
 
 out of sal soda will use the same quantity of soda ash to make up; 
 they are probably not aware of the fact that one pound of soda ash, 
 will produce nearly three times the alkaline strength of the same 
 weight of sal soda, in the same quantity of water. The only safe 
 and systematic method for using soap, is to use the hydrometer, 
 and with the aid of it, and by observing the results obtained by 
 using the various soaps, manufacturers can detect the honesty of 
 the soapmaker, and by experimenting with the different soaps they 
 may be able to make out very correct estimates of what soap it is 
 for their advantage to use, as regards cost, as well as to meet the 
 wants of their particular class of goods. Uniformity in soap is 
 of as much importance as in drugs, dye stuffs, oils, &c. A finisher 
 can produce better work by using one kind and quality of soap 
 continually, providing it is made honestly, (i. e. uniform in quality) 
 as then he is better able to judge of the treatment necessary 
 to have his cloths always clean, colors bright, and the goods 
 feeling soft and smooth. 
 
 The mistaken ideas of some manufacturers often lead them to 
 buy what they would call a cheap soap, the cheapness of which 
 they determine by the price paid per pound. But the simple 
 instance as is shown by the following statement of a test trial, to 
 show the average cost per piece of cloth for a soap which would be 
 called by some comparatively dear, and another which would be 
 called comparatively cheap, will show such buyers how dear, what 
 they would call a cheap soap may prove to be. 
 
 I recommend a neutral soap to contain a good body and ability 
 to carry alkali, and thus I may add an alkali as I desire, to suit 
 the class of goods I make. And I have made estimations, in a 
 scientific manner, and I think such a soap is the cheapest, al- 
 though the first cost of such soaps are usually the highest. 
 
 The previous remarks on the economy of buying a neutral soap, 
 lead me to give the result of a test made between a pure neu-tral 
 good bodied soap, and one pretty well loaded with alkali, &c. 
 And I will mention only the name of the party who are favored 
 by the statement. 
 
 There was taken
 
 96 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 17H fts. of Dobbin's Electric Soap 9| cts. per ft., $16.30 
 
 100 " Soda Ash, - 4| " " 4.50 
 
 22 " Sal Soda, 3 li ' .66 
 
 8 " Salt, .13 
 
 $21.59 
 
 with this solution there was scoured 300 pieces of three quarters 
 width fancy cassimeres, at an average cost of 7 and ^ cents per 
 piece. 
 
 There was taken 
 
 260 fts. of soap made by another Co., 5 cts. per ft. $14.30 
 
 50 " " Soda Ash, 4 " " " 2.25 
 
 12 " " Sal Soda, - - 3 " " .36 
 
 4 " Salt, - t - - .06 
 
 $16.97 
 The above is every pound of alkali it would carry. 
 
 With this solution there was scoured 164 pieces of goods of the 
 same width, weight, and length, as those scoured with Dobbin's 
 Electric, and at a cost of 10 and ^ cents per piece. 
 
 Difference 'in favor of Dobbin's Electric Soap, 3 and ^ cents 
 per piece, this saving on a production of 40 or more pieces per 
 day would foot up quite a sum in a year. 
 
 These statements show though rather anomalous that a 9 
 cent neutral good bodied soap, is cheaper even for scouring than 
 a 5 cent soap heavily loaded with some worthless mixture, and 
 verifies my statement as to the economy of buying a pure good 
 bodied soap, to which an alkali may be added for scouring pur- 
 poses, and equal or better results obtained at a less cost than 
 by buying some of the cheap soaps manufactured purposely for 
 scouring. The 5 cent soap as per statement was made by a 
 company who have the reputation of making good soaps. For 
 the purpose of adding more weight to my remarks upon a neutral 
 good bodied soap, &c., and to show that such a soap is not neces- 
 sarily confined to any one kind or class of goods, I will mention 
 what some of our well known practipal manufacturers say as to 
 the merits of such a soap. The information thus obtained and 
 given was addressed from them directly to the author (by corre-
 
 AMEEICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 97 
 
 spon deuce,) and they each say respectively as follows : Mr. S. J. 
 Chaffee, Superintendent of the New England Company of Rock- 
 ville,' Connecticut, says : 
 
 " We use Dobbin's Electric Soap because its felting .properties 
 are better, and also it goes further pound for pound than any 
 soap we ever used." 
 
 Mr. R. D. Nesmith, Superintendent of the Woodvale Woolen 
 Mill, Johnstown, Pa., says :. "With the use of Dobbin's Electric 
 Soap we get our goods clean without injury to the colors or 
 staple of wool, and cheerfully give it the preference to any soap 
 we ever used." 
 
 Messrs. Damon, Smith & Co., Westvale, Massachusetts, one of 
 the largest firms in this country engaged in the manufacture of 
 flannels, say : " We have used the Dobbin's Electric Soap for 
 more than a year. We like the soap, and have found it to be a 
 cheap and uniform article, and shall continue to use it as long 
 as it maintains its present quality." 
 
 Mr. James Kitcheuman, manufacturer of all styles and grades 
 of carpets, Philadelphia, Pa., says : "Dobbin's Electric Soap on 
 carpet colors answers my purpose, and is to be recommended." 
 
 Mr. N. Eels, Superintendent of the Hamilton Mill, Paterson, 
 N. J., engaged in manufacturing nice shawls, yarns, &c., says ; 
 " I have used nothing else but Dobbin's Electric Soap for the last 
 eight months, and it gives me better satisfaction for washing 
 shawls, and keeping colors up as wanted, than any other used 
 before. In my opinion, the above mentioned soap is the best in 
 market for shawls, and by trying, parties will find it so." 
 
 The soap referred to by the preceding manufacturers, is the 
 same as referred to in the " Test Trial," and which sboAvs that it 
 contains the necessary qualifications to operate satisfactorily upon 
 Fancy Cassimeres, Flannels, Carpets, Shawls, Yarns, &c. 
 
 Dobbin's Electric Soap is manufactured by Messrs I. L. Cragin 
 & Co., Philadelphia, Pa. It is cut for consumers into thin ^shav- 
 ings, and the water is very effectually dried out, and, thus you 
 pay for actual weight when dry, at the uniform price of 9| cents 
 per pound. And thus you buy a soap containing body and ability, 
 instead of a surplus of alkali and water, for it is on the last men- 
 tioned article (which costs nothing), that manufacturers are 
 13
 
 AMEEICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTUREE. 
 
 sometimes very badly cheated. Chemistry has discovered that 
 soaps have a strong attraction for water and consequently always 
 retain a considerable quantity in their composition. Ami that 
 the proportions in the best hard soaps vary from 25 to 30 per ct. 
 and that it is possible to prepare a solid soap containing more 
 than its own weight of water. And this fact is no doubt known 
 to dealers as some of them store their soaps in cellars and damp 
 places, since it is for their interest if not known to consumers, 
 to sell as large a proportion of combined water as possible. But 
 how are the pecuniary interests of the consumer affected by buy- 
 ing a surplus of water at from 3 to 6 cents per pound. The 
 hydrometer in the hands of a skillful workman who understands 
 the results which are obtained from a given weight of good soap 
 will soon detect the extent of adulterations in soap. 
 
 WATER AND ITS EFFECT ON SOAP. 
 
 The water employed in connection with soap produces a variety 
 of actions, and water is thus familiarly spoken of as hard and 
 soft, according to its action on soap. The hard waters usually 
 found in the western country contain compounds of lime and 
 magnesia, and would be called hard. And these earths produce 
 with the fat of the soap a substance which is hardly soluble, and 
 occasion a curdling of the soap ; soft waters do not contain 
 these earths and unite with soap without difficulty. It is no 
 doubt the presence of these earths which cause the difficulty 
 experienced by western manufacturers when scouring or washing 
 the oils from their fabrics, requiring an excessively caustic alka- 
 line soap to make any impression. For if the soap is curdled 
 and not properly held in solution it will be a hard matter to 
 make it unite with the oil in the fabric and produce the required 
 saponification. Suppose the soap solution to have been well made 
 and applied to the fabric, and a good lather produced and the oil 
 effectually started, and then to wash off the soap and dirt, the 
 hard water to be applied ; the hard water instead of cleansing
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 99 
 
 the remaining soap and dirt from the fabric which is desirable, 
 would tend to curdle it and set it in the fabric instead of remov- 
 ing it effectually. Many hard waters become soft by boiling, the 
 heat expelling the substances which held the earths, and they are 
 deposited upon the sides of the interior of the boiler or tank, 
 forming an encrustation. Thus the idea is presented that by 
 boiling a hard water or even warming it, it would overcome a 
 great difficulty, and a little expense incurred for that purpose, 
 would no doubt prove an economical expenditure. 
 
 TO TEST THE HARDNESS OF A WATER. 
 
 WELLS PRINCIPLES OF CHEMISTRY. 
 
 " The hardness of a water may He easily tested by adding to it a 
 few drops of a solution of soap in alcohol ; if the water remains 
 clear it is perfectly soft, if it becomes cloudy it may be regarded 
 as hard, and the degree of hardness being proportioned to the de- 
 gree of cloudiness occasioned," in the ordinary waters of the east, 
 (soft waters.) 
 
 When a good oil has been applied to the stock, a soap solution of 
 sufficient strength to sustain about 2% or 3 degrees of the Hydrom- 
 eter has been found a safe strength for scouring when the colors 
 are not very delicate, and will not injure stock. But as was pre- 
 viously stated when scouring after fulling, and one or more de- 
 grees of strength was applied in that process, then usually less 
 strength is required in scouring, and Avhen scouring before full- 
 ing generally a little more alkaline strength is required ; should 
 a strong soap happen to be applied in the fulling, care would 
 would have to be taken in scouring, and not apply a strong soap 
 especially if there are colors or the stock is any object; sometimes 
 only warm water is necessary in this process, in fact Avarm water 
 only should be used, because if the grease was effectually started 
 and the piece had become cool, cold water would set the remain- 
 ing grease very firmly. Also less alkaline strength is usually re- 
 quired when the borax solution, as was mentioned in the Picking
 
 100 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 Room, was applied with the oil, as that solution tends to break 
 the oil, and also produces a soap solution to a certain extent- 
 Soap solutions should be tested by the Hydrometer, when about 
 to a hand heat or a little warmer is no objection. For one piece 
 of three-quarters goods as was mentioned in fulling, from 1^ to 
 2 pails full of soap will usually answer to start the grease and dirt, 
 but a lather is what a finisher desires to see, and then he is usually 
 very sure the soap is working correctly upon the applied oil, re- 
 moving it from the fabric, and that when washed it will be clean. 
 
 SOAP FOR SOLUTIONS. 
 
 An ordinary pail full of good fulling soap dissolved and boiled 
 in from 40 to 45 gallons of water will usually make a good bodied 
 solution for fulling use as previously directed. And about 16 or 
 20 pounds of good scouring soap dissolved and boiled in from 40 
 to 45 gallons of water, will make a good bodied solution, for the 
 alkali; when more is desired add sal soda. To make a scouring 
 solution of the Dobbin's Electric soap less weight of soap is 
 required than when using the heavily loaded alkaline soaps. 
 
 TO NEUTRALIZE HARD WATER. 
 
 The following plan would be a good one for hard waters for 
 Western Manufacturers; have a cask or vat capable of holding 
 from two to six barrels of water, according to the size of the mill, 
 situated near the washer. Have the supply pipe near the top, and 
 the draAv off pipe at the bottom of the cask or vat ; have the 
 draw off pipe so arranged, that the water may be brought to the 
 washer, so that the water may be applied directly upon the pieces 
 when they are revolving around the rollers ; perhaps if a sprinkler 
 should be attached to the end of the pipe, so that the. water would 
 be applied evenly upon the pieces it would be best. Introduce a
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 101 
 
 steam pipe into the cask to heat the Avater, or any other effectual 
 method; as soon as the cloths have run in the soap and a good 
 lather obtained and the grease has been started, let off the soap 
 and let on the warm water from the cask, at the same time let 
 cold water into the cask, and by the time they have run in the 
 warm water and have got Avell cleaned, the cold water will begin 
 to appear, and by letting them run in the cold water awhile, they 
 will come out bright and clean. A very good method for restor- 
 ing acid shades when nearly spoiled by excessive alkali, will be 
 found in the Dye House remarks. 
 
 GIGGING. 
 i 
 
 The cloths after scouring and washing are usually partially dried 
 by the extractor, (and sometimes are dried) and are ready for the 
 gigging process. Great care should be exercised in this operation. 
 Some cloths will bear several slats of fresh teazles and some will 
 not. Fresh sharp teazles will wear a cloth so that it will soon be 
 tender unless it is a very firmly woven, well felted fabric. When 
 a thick heavy nap is desired, there should not be only one or two 
 slats of fresh teazles in the cylinder to commence with, and the 
 pieces should occasionally be turned, i, e., run th'e other way, and 
 as the nap is raised from the bottom, a few fresh slats may be 
 added. Some finishers think there is no benefit derived by turn- 
 ing the pieces, (reversing the nap.) But the idea is entertained by 
 some of our best manufacturers, that cloths finished so as to have 
 a little nap, feel softer and handle better when they are reversed 
 during the process. 
 
 When Avhat is called a thread or bare finish is desired, the 
 quicker the nap is raised the better the goods will look ; in which 
 case, no bottom or fine nap is desired, and the pieces Avould not want 
 to be turned or reversed during the process/ as a short rfap will 
 make a thread finish appear as though not well cleared out, and 
 the colors will not show bright and clear. 
 
 Great care must be taken when gigging cloths which contain 
 ribs or raised figures, as the surface of the ribs, &c., are sometimes
 
 102 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 scratched off, and the furrow or ground work is not well cleared 
 out. Silk mixtures will not usually bear sharp teazles. Gener- 
 ally speaking, when a pattern demands much gigging, the opera- 
 tion should commence with dull teazles, or with perhaps one or 
 two fresh slats, and so on. 
 
 Cloths which contain colored cotton should be dried as soon as 
 possible, as they stain very easily if remaining wet long. The 
 sun and air are usually called the best agents for drying cloths, 
 as they usually feel better and handle better, than when dried on 
 some of the drying machines. 
 
 i\ $L $ t- 
 
 rnu, Jteatnfl, jMeam fmtmunjg, &e. 
 
 a *J ^K 
 
 SHEARING is also an important operation, as the shear is a com- 
 plicated machine, and skill and close attention are demanded to 
 keep it in perfect running order, and pass the cloths smoothly and 
 evenly by the blades. When the blades are not sharp or properly 
 set, they sometimes pull off the nap instead of cutting it smoothly. 
 Cloths usually present a better appearance when sheared down by 
 degrees, than when the nap is cut off in a hurry by one or two 
 runs. Some manufacturers employ two machines ; one for crop- 
 ping off the nap a little, and the other for finishing and cutting 
 off the nap gradually and evenly. After the cloths have been 
 sheared, and perhaps burled, and specked and perched, and the 
 holes well fine drawn, they are usually brushed, so as to smooth 
 the nap, and are papered and subjected to the pressing. 
 
 This operation tends to give the goods a firm feeling, and makes 
 the face smooth and usually a little glossy. The gloss is not what 
 is desired to meet the desired finish and style sometimes, and thus 
 they are subjected to the steaming and brushing operations, which 
 tends to remove the gloss, and also the stiffness, and makes them 
 handle better, and usually makes them feel a little finer. This 
 operation concluded and the cloths are usually ready to be care- 
 fully measured, and carefully done up for the market, and there 
 to be disposed of for various prices, and which prices sometimes
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 103 
 
 'allow a profit and sometimes a loss; and in order to know about 
 what prices should be obtained to allow a profit, it is necessary to 
 make careful estimations of their cost. 
 
 No manufacturer can afford to make an article to be sold, with- 
 out forming a very correct estimation of the cost of such an arti- 
 cle, by accurate calculations with figures, and which figures should 
 be obtained from book accounts and statements carefully, accu- 
 rately and systematically compiled and arranged. 
 
 The importance of Estimating the Cost of Goods 
 correctly and the most approved Method for- 
 making the Estimations. 
 
 Perhaps a few remarks upon this important connection of the 
 business may prove a source of profit to some. This part of the 
 business is not to be classed under the head of manufacturing, 
 but may be called a financial connection ; and to which all well 
 managed concerns give a special attention. All who engage in a 
 business wish to employ their means invested to the best advan- 
 tage to enable them to realize a profit ; those whoare operating 
 with small means may perhaps, require to be more careful, and 
 attentive to minute points than those who are operating with 
 abundant means, but care and close attention is required of all 
 who are engaged in the woolen business in these fluctuating times, 
 to make it a paying enterprise. Goods may be perfectly manu- 
 factured and all the materials employed, and the affairs pertaining 
 to the direct management of the materials may be conducted pru- 
 dently, honestly, and in good faith, and yet by a want of system, 
 and a proper knowledge of the requisites necessary to make cor- 
 rect estimations, and sharp financial abilities, the business may be 
 carried on at a loss, and thus the estimating of the cost of goods 
 scientifically may justly be considered an important financial 
 connection of the business. Suppose for instance a style of goods
 
 104 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 has been manufactured, and placed in the market for disposal ; 
 from careful estimations we have ascertained very nearly as to 
 how much these goods cost per yard, and thus are a-ble to set the 
 price for selling ; suppose they cost $1 per yard, and some of them 
 have sold for $1.25 and then they begin to drag at that price, and 
 have accumulated some ; the selling agents inform me that they 
 can dispose of all they have at $1.1 2-, and to dispose of them and 
 get the cloth into cash I direct them to dispose of them at once, 
 and thus I am satisfied that there was no loss to my business. 
 And thus by knowing very nearly their cost we may be able to 
 devise ways and means to take advantage of some of the various 
 reasons which cause the price of the goods to be depreciated 
 sometimes below their cost. Suppose we are manufacturing and 
 the goods are being disposed of at prices less than cost, and we 
 have not made an accurate estimation of their cost, and we con- 
 tinue to manufacture and sell at ruinous prices, and are not aware 
 of the fact till the requisite cash is not forthcoming to meet the 
 necessary demands ; having perhaps lost thousands of dollars, then 
 we begin to search for an adequate remedy, but it is too late, the 
 goods have been sold, and there is no chance to repair the losses 
 already incurred. r 
 
 Thus the imperative necessity of conducting a business in a 
 skillful and systematic manner, and have complete control of it 
 in all its details. Some may say that to manufacture a fabric is 
 one particular business, and to manage the finance is another, 
 but both are contained in a business, and thus both are implicated, 
 there is one sure thing which is, the more extended the person's 
 knowledge may be in relation to all branches connected, the 
 more liable will he be to attain a station of eminence or fortune. 
 No correct estimation of the cost of goods can be obtained with- 
 out a thorough knowledge of the cost of the various materials 
 and their respective proportions used, as for instance the stock 
 material. Usually various weights, qualities and grades are em- 
 ployed and at different values, and it is necessary to know in 
 what proportions each of those qualities and grades appear in the 
 fabric ; the cost for the stock material usually exceeds all the 
 other expenses, this presents the fact that it is a very important 
 expenditure, and that perhaps in some cases there may possibly 
 be a chance to economise by substituting a cheaper slock in some
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 105 
 
 part of the fabric without producing a damaging effect upon its 
 general appearance and selling qualities, and to accomplish this 
 we shall have to- call upon our manufacturing and estimating 
 abilities. 
 
 No person can be called competent to till up a statement show- 
 ing the relative proportions of the various stock materials em- 
 ployed unless he has a very clear knowledge of the manufactur- 
 ing, and can calculate upon the Aveights of the various sizes of 
 yarns, as* is explained in the proceeding departments, especially 
 spinning, or has an honest person at the head of the manufactur- 
 ing who is capable of furnishing the required information cor- 
 rectly. Besides the stock material there are other necessary 
 materials used such as drugs and dyestuffs, soaps, oils, &c., and 
 in order to know very nearly what quantities are used monthly it 
 will be necessary for those who use those supplies to make returns 
 of the quantities of the various priced materials used monthly. 
 
 There is still another important expenditure, which is for labor ; 
 and in this expense there is frequently a chance to economise. 
 Some overseers want a surplus of help, and some require more 
 than others to perform the same amount of work. A skillful 
 overseer who knows how to lay out his" work properly, and thus 
 take advantage of it, may sometimes produce better results than 
 another overseer, who employs more help and still keeps them 
 busily engaged. A very important point in the business is to 
 employ good, faithful, and skillful overseers, and they in turn to 
 employ good help. There are other expenses connected with the 
 business which will be mentioned in their order. ' 
 
 For the purpose of filling out a statement, and to explain clearly 
 the idea presented, we will illustrate by assuming that we are ope- 
 rating a four set mill. The mill main building, with the attached 
 buildings, land, water privilege, machinery, fixtures, implements 
 and utensils connected with the premises, all completed and in 
 running order, have cost the sum total of $36,000; and I shall 
 charge this amount 12 per cent, annual interest, to help kejep the 
 mill in running condition, and to allow a fair interest on the 
 money invested, which will amount to $4,320 yearly, or $360 
 monthly; the interest thus charged I will call mill rent, and will 
 add this amount to the other expenses, and which will eventually 
 appear under the head of manufacturing. My 16 tenements, in- 
 14
 
 106 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 chiding the occupied land, have all completed, cost the sum of 
 $8,000; these tenements return me monthly in the form of rent 
 $80; and thus I realize about 12 per cent, per annum on the 
 money invested, and thus I will consider they pay for themselves, 
 and will not consider them in the accounts which are to be used 
 in making estimations for cost of goods. 
 
 I have also appropriated to furnish the various materials nec- 
 essary for manufacturing, the sum of $24,000 as capital ; this 
 amount I consider will be sufficient to carry on the business and 
 which will be constantly passing through the various departments 
 in the form of raw material, till finished goods are made and 
 sold, when the money again appears. I will charge the amount 
 thtvs employed interest at the rate of 12 per cent, per annum, which 
 will amount to $2880 yearly or 240 per month. Thus I will say 
 that I have appropriated the sum total of $68,000 ; $8000 is so 
 invested that it returns an annual rent sufficient to meet my 
 demands, the balance, $60,000, then has been appropriated directly 
 for the purpose of manufacturing cloth, and I must look to the 
 <;loth manufactured to return the adequate sum to pay a fair per- 
 centage for the money thus invested, and for keeping the build- 
 ings, machinery, &c., up to their present value, and for niv labor 
 &c., &c. So that I must give close attention to the cloth manu- 
 factured to be sure I am realizing the sum necessary to meet the 
 demands of the amount invested. Cloths being sold by the yard, 
 upon a yard must all the estimations be made as to the cost for 
 all the money employed ; and thus the fact is presented why 
 the production of yards woven is of so much importance, as if 
 they are woven, of course they must be finished and shipped to 
 market for disposal ; the payments for " rent of mill," interest on 
 capital in trade, day labor, salaries, and repairs, and some other 
 contingent expenses, will be the same when the monthly produc- 
 tion is 10,000 as when 12,000 yards ; but the average cost per yard 
 for these expenses will be less for the 12,000 yards than for 10,- 
 000 yards. The average cost per yard for material, such as stork, 
 drugs and dyestuffs, oils, soaps, &c., will not be any more for the 
 12,000 .than the 10,000 yards, so that it may readily be seen where 
 a large production of woven yards tends to reduce the average 
 cost for a single yard. I have always made calculations by the 
 month, (12 months a year,) and have made the loom yards and
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 107 
 
 weights the basis for estimating the cost, but as the goods are 
 sold by the finished yards they must also be considered, which 
 will be explained hereafter. In order to obtain the required 
 information as to the various materials consumed and their 
 respective quantities and prices, it will be necessary for the over- 
 seers of the various departments where the materials are used to 
 keep an accurate account of them, and make returns so that the 
 necessary figures may be obtained. And for the purpose of fill- 
 ing out a statement for explanation, I will suppose returns have 
 been made for one month from the following : 
 
 Dyer, for materials consumed, Drugs, Dyestuflfs, &c., $220.00 
 
 Carder, " " Oils, 66.00 
 
 Dresser, " " Glue and Irish Moss, 22.00 
 
 Weaver, " " Heddles, Shuttles, Pickers, &c., 11.00 
 Finisher, * " Boxes, Clothboards, Teazles, 
 
 Soaps &c., 132.00 
 
 Fireman, " " Coal and Wood, for steam, &c., 220.00 
 
 Machinist, " " For small repairs, &c., 33.00 
 
 The cost for materials (other than stock) used for one month 
 
 foot up the sum total of $704.00 
 
 The bookkeeper informs me that the total amount of the monthly 
 pay roll which includes all that has heen paid for usual labor, 
 extra labor, and salaries, foots up, - $2,079.00 
 
 He also informs me that the charges for teaming, freight bills, 
 traveling and sundries, foot up the sum total of $143. I have 
 also obtained the production of pounds and yards from the seve- 
 ral departments, which are also necessary for making estimations, 
 and to keep a close run of the business, arifl which read as 
 follows : 
 
 Sorting, Means the Ibs. sorted and delivered to the dyer, 10,000 Ibs. 
 
 Coloring, " " of clean stock obtained from the 10,000 6,000 " 
 
 Carding, " " of stock, waste, &c., used with the 6,000 8,000 " 
 
 Spinning, " " of yarn obtained, 7,500 " 
 
 Dressing, Total yards of yarn dressed and warped, 12,000 yds. 
 
 Weaving, " " produced from the looms, H-,000 " 
 
 Finishing, " " finished, 11,000 " 
 
 All the returns as mentioned complete the list, and to form an 
 estimation and statement to show the general average of each 
 department forgone month for sundry small materials, labor, &c..
 
 108 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 and to explain plainly the idea to be conveyed, I have taken all 
 the previous figures excepting mill rent, interest on capital in 
 trade, and arranged them in the form of a statement, showing 
 the estimate " cost for small materials and labor for one month."
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 109 
 
 fill -I ' 
 
 3 _j 
 
 S 1 & 
 
 S 
 
 ' g?'"*" 
 
 
 S5 
 
 ,1*1, ,#, 
 
 5 3 
 
 '' |' ' S' 
 
 ! 111! 
 
 ill 
 
 II 
 
 1 1 isg 1 
 
 I 
 
 I =? 
 
 
 
 a, o^^otoosoc^o^cft 
 co 
 
 I| 
 
 OS 40 to". ~" 
 
 sill 
 
 >^g 
 
 Illl 
 
 t for the Cost per pound. 
 
 Labor. Total. Muteriiils. ! Labor. | Total. 
 
 <jl M. ta j->. to 
 
 Ljl OS CO " tO h-' tO C5 ' 
 
 00 000 
 
 r 
 
 h 
 
 _J OS b3 Ot tO to H* 
 
 :< co^l IMM- y;n-d 
 Labor. Tota 
 
 ! ?l os^ ' biocbi^U? 5 
 
 H*| 00 00000 
 
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 | CO 04^' toes' OT' 'r^es 
 
 0, 00 00 00 
 
 " i 

 
 110 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 You will please observe as per the third, fourth and fifth col- 
 umns at the left, the cost for materials and labor are each arrang- 
 ed so as to show in which department they belong, and that they 
 are the gross amounts; and in the sixth, seventh and eighth 
 (short columns), the average cost per pound for each department 
 is given ; and in the last three columns the average cost per yard 
 for materials and labor are given as they belong in each depart- 
 ment. 
 
 The total cost for materials foots up $ 847,00 
 And for labor - - 2079,00 
 
 Total $2926,00 
 
 which divided by the 11,000 yards, gives 
 the average cost per yard for materials 7'w cents. 
 " " " " labor 18,' " 
 
 Making the average cost per yard for the month 26*0 " 
 
 To obtain the average cost per yard, the yards from the looms 
 (production) are used 11,000 yards ; and the average cost per yard 
 for all the other expenses, will be calculated by the 11,000 yards, 
 (excepting for stock and the cost for commission, insurance, stor- 
 age, &c., in the market.) The other expenses to be added and 
 averaged to a yard, are as follows: 
 
 The gas bills foot up yearly $ 132 monthly $11 
 
 Premiums on Insurance policies yearly. 720 " 60 
 
 Taxes on personal property and real estate 480 " 40 
 
 Rent of Mill yearly, 4,320 360 
 
 Interest on money as capital yearly, - 2,880 " 240 
 
 The total for one month foots up, * i 1 1 
 
 This amount divided by the production (11,000 yds.) gives the 
 average cost to a yard a fraction over 6j 4 cents, and added to the 
 average cost for small materials and labor, and the cost thus far 
 amounts to 33 cents; there must be now added the cost of the 
 stock and for selling the goods. 
 
 For the purpose of explaining how to calculate the percentage 
 of stock used and to fill out a statement, a supposition case will 
 be necessary : Suppose that an estimation is to be made of the
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 Ill 
 
 stock used to make a style which we will call No. 1, and that the 
 yarn was spun and the required number of threads of warp and 
 filling were each used to produce 12 ounces of stock in a yard, 
 6 ozs of warp and 6 ozs of filling. By referring to the Lot Book 
 wherein entries were made of the stock material laid out, the 
 quantities, qualities, color, size of yarn to be made, for what style, 
 and whether for warp or filling. And the stock as laid out reads 
 as follows : The Stock represented is the weight. 
 
 ( 200 Ibs. 2d. qual. fleece, costing in market57^ cts. shrinks 40 pr, ct. cost clean 96 cts. 
 Warp.^ 400 ibs. 4th. qual. fleece, costing in market 57^ cts. shrinks 40 pr. ct. cost clean 96 cts. 
 
 ( 400 Ibs. 2d. qual. Cal. costing in market 40 cents shrinks 50 pr. ct. cost clean 80 cts. 
 
 ( 400 Ibs. 4th. qual. fleece, costing in market 57^ cts. shrinks 40 pr. ct. cost clean 96 cts- 
 Fill's.^ 200 Ibs. 2d. qual. fleece, costing in market 57> cts. shrinks 40 pr. ct. cost clean % cts- 
 
 ( 400 ffis. 4th. qual. Texas, costing in market 36 cts. shrinks 50 pr. ct.cost clean 74 cts. 
 
 2000 Ibs. total. 
 
 By the above memorandum it appears there were three different 
 kinds of stock employed, and that there is a difference in their 
 shrinkage and cost, and it will be necessary to ascertain the rela- 
 tive proportions (percentage) of each kind used. The total foots 
 up 2000 pounds, and to get the several percentages used of each 
 kind, divide each of the pounds taken by the total pounds; thus 
 200, 2d. quality fleece divided by the 2000, and it is found to be 
 10 per cent. And thus continue with each of the component 
 parts of the combination, and the percentage of each kind used 
 will read as follows : (see part first, answer to question 12, rule for 
 calculating percentage of warp and filling). 
 
 \Varp. 
 
 Filling. 
 
 10 per cent. 
 20 " 
 20 " 
 
 20 
 ho 
 (20 
 
 100 
 
 2d. quality fieece wool, 
 4th 
 
 Cal. 
 
 fleece 
 
 2d. 
 4th 
 2d. 
 4th 
 
 Texas 
 
 Suppose 10 pieces of style No. 1, have been woven and finished 
 and the yards and weights are known. And the average of the 
 yards and weights appear as follows : 
 
 Loom average HI yards and 14 ounces. 
 Finished " 30 " 12 " 
 
 Loss 1 yard. Loss 2 ounces in finishing.
 
 112 
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 As has been previously stated the loom weight will be used for 
 making estimations of stock used. The average loom weight for 
 the 10 pieces is 14 ounces, thus the 12 ounces of stock which was 
 calculated in yarn weights, has by the take up in process of weav- 
 ing increased to 14 ounces. As the stock used is of fair quality 
 and of good staple, it will be a safe calculation if one ounce is 
 added to a yard to make up for waste in process of carding, spin- 
 ning and weaving, and with one ounce added to cover this loss 
 by waste, we then have 15 ounces of stock to make calculations 
 upon, and thus by multiplying the 15 ounces by the several per- 
 centages of the various qualities and grades, the relative propor- 
 tions of each are obtained in ounces and fractional parts, and 
 as the market prices and the shrinkages of each are known, the 
 cost per pound is known as also the cost per ounce, and all the 
 previous calculations are brought into a final statement as 
 follows : 
 
 MEMMORANDUM OF THE COST PEII YARD, FOR ONI: \i:\v 
 STYLE FANCY CASSIMERES, !S T o. 1. 
 
 Loom average 31 yards and 14 ounces. 
 Finished " 30 " " 12 
 
 Loss, 1 yard and 2 ounces. 
 
 ( 2d. quality fleece 10 per cen 
 Warp. < 4th. qual. fleece 20 per ce: 
 
 <2d. qal. Califor. 20 per cen 
 
 ( 4th. quality fleece 20 per cen 
 Fill'!,'.- 2d. qunlity fleece 10 per cen 
 
 | 4th. qual. Texas 20 per cen 
 
 STOCK. 
 
 di 1 1 '.,. o/s. cost cents per ounce clean, ,(M( cents. 
 OF 3 ozs. cost 5;!; t cts. per ounce clean, . 17.25rts. 
 or 3 ozs. cost 5 cts. per ounce clean. _ .15 cents, 
 or 3 ozs. cost 5 :1 4 ' cts. per ounce clean, .17.'.T> els. 
 or \% ozs. cost (5 cts. per ounce dean, i .ii( cents. 
 cr 3 ozs. cost 4^ cts. per ounce clean. - .14.25 cts. 
 
 100 per cent. 15 ounces. Cost for Stock .HP, cl-. 
 
 Labor . . .18.9-10" 
 
 Manufacturing .14.1-10" 
 
 Lose of one yard in finishing process .04 " 
 
 n>st for Stock, Labor. Manufacturing, &c., $1.18? 4 
 Selling (foods, .(Hi', 
 
 Total cost for our yard, f 1.28 
 
 The total cost for labor as is filled in above, we have previously 
 ascertained, and all other expenses, except for stock and selling 
 the goods in market, are added under head of manufacturing. 
 The addition for loss in finishing of one yard we found by the 
 average of the 10 pieces, and as all the. previous calculations were
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTUEER. 
 
 113 
 
 made excepting for stock and selling goods by the woven yards, 
 if there is to be a loss of yards in process of finishing, this loss 
 must be considered, and a loss of one yard from thirty one makes 
 about 3^ per cent, and which amounts to a little less than 4 cents, 
 but it is added in as 4 cents. The cost for selling goods will 
 depend upon how affairs are managed ; if a manufacturer has suf- 
 ficient means to carry on his business so that he can wait two, 
 three or four months for the net proceeds of his sales, i. e. till the 
 money is due, he will usually save more than when he is obliged 
 to draw on the commission house and pay a heavv discount for 
 paper or cash ; generally it costs from 10 to 15 per cent, for sell- 
 ing goods, and sometimes more. The commission paid for selling- 
 is now about 5 per cent, on the price obtained when sold, also for 
 freight, storage, labor and insurance about 2 per cent ; and the 
 credits given to purchasers by which the interest is lost, and the 
 holding of goods sometimes will make up the percentage about as 
 much move ; in the above statement the percentage is 8 per cent, 
 and added to the total cost at the mill, i. e. upon all the other 
 expenses, stock, labor, &c., &c. 
 
 It is advisable to make all the estimations on the outside, i. e., 
 be sure and have the cost per yard full as high as it will bear, so 
 that providing only the estimated cost was obtained, you may 
 rest assured you are getting a new dollar for an old one. A man- 
 ufacturer once said " he estimated the cost of his goods, on a sim- 
 ilar plan with an old lady who made rhubarb pies ; she said she 
 added sugar till her conscience would not allow her to add any 
 more, then she shut her eyes and put in another handfull ; so 
 after he had put the cost as high as his conscience would allow, 
 he would then add ten cents;" this same manufacturer com- 
 menced business on a very small capital, in a small mill which 
 he rented, and now he owns some 12 setts of machinery, with 
 buildings, &c., and has a large surplus of cash. 
 
 As per the statement, the cost of the fourth quality of the fleece 
 has been carried out at 5f cents, and the second quality of same 
 lot is called worth 6 cents per ounce; the fourth quality iocs not 
 shrink as much as the second usually, and thus is usually called 
 a little lower priced; also the second quality is always called 
 worth more than fourth, &c. 
 
 Some of our first-class manufacturers in making estimations 
 15
 
 114 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 after the average of yards and weights have been obtained, and the 
 cost for the stock has been estimated in the same manner as was the 
 stock for style No. 1 ; they then ascertain the cost for the labor, 
 and add to the cost for stock, and make an allowance when there 
 is a loss in finished yards. They then bring all the other expenses 
 and add them under the head of manufacturing ; and to ascertain 
 the figures for that account, they double the cost for the labor; 
 say where is added 14.1-10 cents, they would add 37.8-10, and 
 not mention the cost for labor," &c., which would be double the 
 cost of the labor as per statement, and their method would foot 
 up, $1 23, as the cost per yard, to which must be added selling 
 goods. To double the cost for the labor, will in most all cases 
 prove a safe estimate for all the expenses which appear under the 
 head of " Manufacturing" and " Labor." 
 
 All the estimations which have to be made upon the produc- 
 tion of yards (i. e., yards woven), have been calculated by 11,000 
 yards, and those yards have been taken as the usual average pro- 
 duction, one month with another. 
 
 There is still another material used sometimes for increasing 
 the finished weights of goods, and which material is flocks ; when 
 cloths are produced from the. looms a certain weight per yard, 
 and when finished they are about the loom weight, the ounces of 
 flocks applied may be verj correctly ascertained. As was said be- 
 fore, the calculations for yarn weights of warp and filling before 
 the weaving process, will usually come very near to the finished 
 weight of the fabric, when no flocks are applied. And when 
 flocks have been applied, the difference between the yarn 
 weight and the loom weight is a very close calculation of the 
 weight of flocks applied, that is when there is not much differ- 
 ence between loom and finished weights : when estimations are 
 made from flocks, usually twice the weight supposed to be applied 
 is taken for obtaining the cost. Suppose we are using a flock 
 worth 16 cents per pound which would be 1 cent per ounce, and 
 we expected about 2 ounces were retained in the piece per yard we 
 would then say 4 ounces of flock at 1 cent per ounce or 4 cents for 
 a yard; (see memorandum of stock for cotton warp.) suppose no 
 calculations had been made when the stock had been laid out 
 for warp and filling to have them work up nearly together but 
 that a large amount of stock had been laid out for extra filling,
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 115 
 
 for other warps; and that the calculation which comes up first is 
 for a style of goods, the warp of which was calculated so as to 
 weigh 4 ounces per yard in the yarn, and the filling 6 ounces per 
 yard in the yarn. And thus one yard of warp and filling weigh 
 10 ounces, thus X J is warp to filling / of 100 per cent. = 10 per 
 cent multiplied by 4 = 40 per cent, warp, 10 per cent, multiplied 
 by 6 = GO per cent, filling, so that to obtain the percentage of 
 each kind used, the calculations will have to be made differently 
 than for style No. 1, as the warp and filling percentage Avill have 
 to be made separately. Suppose that the stock laid out reads as 
 ' follows : 
 
 ^ T i 800 pounds 4th quality, fleece wool, 
 
 Warp. j 8QO * , 3d< * Qah 
 
 ( 1600 " 4th " fleece " 
 Filling. \ 800 " 4th & 5th " pulled *" 
 ( 800 " waste 
 
 The total pounds of warp foot up 1600, and the percentage of 
 each kind of stock (obtained as for style No. 1.) in the warp 
 reads : 
 
 50 per cent, of 4th quality fleece, 
 50 " 3d. - Cal. 
 
 Thus 50 per cent, of the percentage of warp (40 per cent.) is 4th 
 quality fleece which equals 20 per cent, and 50 per cent of the 
 percentage of warp is 3d. quality California, equals 20 per 'cent. 
 The warp proportions will then read as follows: 
 20 per cent, 4th quality fleece, 
 20 " " 3d. " California. 
 
 The total pounds of filling foot up 3200, and the percentage of 
 
 each kind of stock, (obtained same as warp) in the filling reads : 
 
 50 per cent. 4th quality fleece, 
 
 25 " 4th & 5th " pulled, 
 
 25 " waste. 
 
 Thus 50 per cent, of the percentage of filling (60 per cent.) is 
 4th quality fleece which equals 30 per cent. And the per cent. 
 of the other kinds of filling stock obtained the same way and 
 they read : 
 
 30 per cent. 4th quality fleece, 
 15 4th & 5th " pulled, 
 15 " waste.
 
 116 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 And thus the relative per cent, of stock of the warp and filling 
 for one yard of each kind of stock employed read as follows : 
 
 w \ 20 per cent, or 2 ounces 4th quality fleece, 
 P. -J 20 2 3d< California. 
 
 ( 30 " " 3 " 4th " fleece, 
 
 Filling. 2 15 H 4tli & 5th " pulled, 
 
 ( 15 " " H " waste. 
 
 Proof 100 per cent, or 10 ounces. 
 
 The remainder of the calculations are to be made out the 
 same as for style No. 1. The calculations would be obtained by 
 the same method providing the warp had been ounces and the 
 filling 4 ounces, but the percentages would read differently, or in 
 any case where the stock is laid out without regard to equal or 
 proportionate parts. And generally the stock is laid out in about 
 that order, especially for filling, sometimes the filling is laid out 
 for several warps of different weights, sometimes changes are made 
 in the weights of both warp and filling. 
 
 Probably this method for obtaining the exact percentage of 
 stock in a yard would be the safest .and most approved method 
 unless as for style No. 1, the weight of warp and filling should be 
 the same and the stock laid out accordingly. 
 
 ESTIMATING COTTON WARP GOODS. 
 
 Suppose a few pieces of cotton warp goods are to be made from 
 the following stock, for filling :) 
 
 C 320 pounds 4th quality fleece (No. 1.) wool, 
 TJ,. IV j 640 " 4th & 5th " pulled 
 
 llllg ' 1 320 " 7th " Texas (medium) " 
 
 [ 320 " waste (good thread). 
 
 Total 1600 pounds. 
 
 the percentage of each kind of stock above mentioned when ob- 
 tained as per previous calculations will read: 
 
 20 per cent. 4th quality %eece, 
 40 " 4th & 5th " pulled 
 20 " 7th " Txas 
 
 20 " waste 
 
 Proof 100 per cent.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 117 
 
 The warp is No. 18, black cotton 1800 ends, cotton runs are 
 double wool runs, thus a warp of 1800 ends of 18 runs, No. 18 cot- 
 ton warp, will be the same as a warp of 1800 ends of 9 run yarn 
 by wool calculations. And by referring to table of warp yarns 
 spinning department, there will be two ounces of cotton warp to 
 each yard. And with the usual take up in weaving it will be 
 calculated as 2|- ounces. The cotton warp cost 8 cents per yard, 
 which makes 4 cents per ounce, the average of several pieces has 
 been obtained. 
 
 The shrinkage of the wool, the cost per ounce when clean, and all the fig- 
 ures necessary to fill out a statement are supposed to be known (by a 
 careful study of the previous examples), and they are brought together 
 and formed into a statement, as follows : 
 
 Memo, of the Cost per yard, of a Cotton Warp Fabric. 
 
 Loom Average 30 yards 12 ounces. 
 Finished " 32 " 14 " 
 
 Gain, 2 yds. 2 ounces. 
 STOCK. 
 
 Warp, 1800 Ends Number 18 Cotton, 2J^ ozs. at 4 cents, 09. cents. 
 
 { 20 pr. ct. of 4th qnal. fleece wool, 2.2 ozs. at 5 cents, 11. cents. 
 
 Filli I 40 pr. ct. of 4th & 5th qua!, pnll'd wool, 4.4 ozs. at 4 cents, 17.6 cents. 
 
 " i 20 pr. ct. of 7th qual. Texas wool, 2.2 ozs. at 4 cents, 08.8 cents. 
 
 I 20 pr. ct. of Waste, 2.2 ozs. at 2 cents, 04.4 cents. 
 
 100 per cent, 13& ounces, 50.8 cents. 
 
 2 [ozs. Flocks cost 02. 
 
 Cost for Stock 52-8 cents. 
 
 The cost for labor and manufacturing are to be added when ob- 
 tained, and a deduction made for gain of yards in finishing pro- 
 cess. 
 
 As per statement, the. average loom weight is 12 ounces, of 
 which 2^ ounces is cotton warp ; thus 9f ounces will be the aver- 
 age weight of filling stock in a yard. As a portion of the filling 
 stock is waste, and as there will be a waste made by carding, spin- 
 ning and weaving, \\ ounces has been added to the filling weight 
 to make due allowance for the loss by waste, and thus 11 ounces 
 is called the filling proportion, and which will be a safe calcula- 
 tion, as most of the stock ie a fair staple. When much waste is 
 used, more weight should be added for calculating, as the more 
 short stock employed, the more waste will be made usually, as 
 Avas said before.
 
 118 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 All the estimations should be made full high enough, to insure 
 the cost is on the safe side, and thus providing only the cost is 
 obtained for the goods, the credit side of your account will bo :i|>t 
 to be increased. 
 
 The stock in the statement is supposed to be clean stock, as 
 no correct estimations can be made when different kinds of wool 
 of various percentages of shrinkages are used, or when waste and 
 cotton are used with wool, unless the weight of clean stock is 
 known, or calculated very nearly correct, as the clean stock is 
 really made into the fabric; also the percentage of loss in scour- 
 ing must be known, to know the cost of the stock used. 
 
 Also even numbers were employed in the statements to make 
 the figures and explanations plain, and as was stated in the Wool 
 Room department, the shrinkage of the wool must be known to 
 ascertain its cost, and also to furnish the figures for a correct 
 statement of the stock used, because if wools of different qualities 
 and kinds are used, there will be usually quite a variation in their 
 shrinkage, and if the weights in the grease are used, no correct 
 statement will be produced. 
 
 The foregoing methods for estimating the cost of goods, are the 
 same as are employed by the first-class manufacturers of this 
 country.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 119 
 
 RULES AND REMARKS 
 
 r r cc _n: jv r, 
 
 |)n the fcular Jfotion$ of jlltecls, Sutkgs, fot$, &c. 
 
 Their respective driving power, their comparative sur 
 face value when of wood, rough and polished Iron 
 &c., &c., with a few facts on Machine Belting, &e. 
 
 When a series of Wheels, Pulleys and Gears are so arranged 
 that one being set in motion imparts motion directly to another, 
 and that to a third and so, on then as their respective diame- 
 ters, circumferences, and the number of teeth one to another so 
 are their respective revolutions one to another in the same space 
 of time. In every machine there are combined drivers and driven 
 as speaking of their motive power, as there must be some first 
 point of motion, and the points thus transmitting the power 
 -become the drivers and driven, and driven and drivers. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 A drum on a main shaft is 24 inches in diameter, and by means of a belt 
 drives a pulley whose diameter is 8 inches, how many revolutions will the 
 pulley make to one of the drum ? 
 
 RULE. Divide diameter of drum by the diameter of the pulley. 
 24 divided by 8=3 ans. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 What part of a revolution will the drum make, while the pulley makes 
 one revolution? 
 
 RULE. Divide diameter of the pulley by diameter of the drum. 
 8 divided by 24 8-34 = $ ans.
 
 120 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 The drum makes 80 revolutions per minute, how many does the pulley 
 make V 
 
 RULE. Multiply the diameter of the drum (the driver] by the 
 number of revolutions made per minute. Divide the product by the 
 diameter of the pulley (the driven}. 
 
 Diameter of drum 24 inches. 
 
 Making 80 revolutions per minute. 
 
 Diameter of pulley 8 inches,)1920 
 
 240 ans. revolutions per minute. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 The diameter of the drum (the driver), is 24 inches and makes 80 revolu- 
 tions per minute; what size driven pulley will be required to obtain 240 
 revolutions per minute ? 
 
 RULE. Multiply the diameter of the driver, by the revolutions 
 per minute. Divide the product by the revolutions requin-il. 
 
 Diameter of drum 24 inches 
 
 Making 80 revolutions per minute. 
 
 Revolutions required 240)1920 
 
 8 inches size of driven pulley. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 The cylinder to a willowing machine should make 240 revolutions per 
 minute, the shaft of which has an eight inch pulley attached. The driving 
 shaft makes 80 revolutions per minute. How large will be the drum (or 
 driver) required to furnish the desired speed ? 
 
 RULE. Multiply the revolutions required, by the size of pulley 
 attached. Divide the product by the revolutions of the driving 
 shaft. 
 
 Revolutions required, 240 
 
 Diameter of attached pulley, 8 indies. 
 
 Revolutions of driving shaft, 80)1920 
 
 Answer, 24 inches size of drum or 
 
 driver required. 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 Required the speed of a buzz saw, which is furnished with drivers and
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 121 
 
 driven pulleys as follows : The pulley on the saw shaft is 4 inches in diam- 
 eter; the next pulley which is to be a driver for it, is 20 inches in diameter. 
 At the opposite side of the saw bench and on the same shaft with the 20 
 inch pulley, is a driven pulley and which is 14 inches in diameter. The 
 driver for this pulley is on the main shaft, and the drum or driver is 40 inches 
 in diameter, and the main shaft makes 140 revolutions per minute, what is 
 the speed of the saw V 
 
 RULE. Multiply the diameter of the drum by the revolutions 
 per minute ; divide the product by the diameter of the next driven. 
 Multiply the quotient thus obtained, by the diameter of the second 
 driver ; divide the product by the diameter of the next driven, the 
 quotient will be the revolutions of the saiv. 
 
 140 x 40 = 5000, divided by 14 = 400, x 20 = 8000, divided by 4 =2000, 
 answer, as the revolutions per minute of the buzz saw. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 The basket to a Hydro Extractor should make 550 revolutions per min- 
 ute. Attached to the shaft of the basket is an 8 inch pulley ; the driver 
 of this 8 inch pulley is a 10 inch pulley ; what should be the diameter of the 
 main driving pulley, the main shaft making 110 revolutions per minute. 
 
 RULE. Multiply the desired revolutions of the Extractor, by 
 the size of the pulley attached; divide the product by the revolu- 
 tions of the main shaft, the quotient is the diameter of the main 
 driver required. 
 
 550 x 8 = 4400, divided by 110 = 40 answer, as the diameter of the main 
 driver required. The 10 inch intermediate pulley is not considered in the 
 calculations, as any number of intermediate pulleys may be used, providing 
 they each transmit the same speed as they each receive respectively. 
 
 Calculations are made for gears, pinions &c. the same as for wheels, 
 drums and pulleys, the former transmit the power and speed by teeth, 
 while the latter transmit by belts. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 A pinion of 10 teeth drives a wheel of 50 ; how many revolutions does 
 the pinion make to one revolution of the wheel ? 
 
 50 divided by 10 = 5 revolutions, answer. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 A pinion has 10 teeth and makes 40 revolutions per minute ; how many 
 revolutions does a wheel make in the same time, which has fifty teeth and 
 works in contact. 
 
 10 x 40 = 400, divided by 50 = 8 revolutions, ans. 
 
 16
 
 122 AMEEICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 A wheel has 50 teeth and makes 8 revolutions per minute, how many 
 teeth must a pinion or wheel have to work in contact and make 40 revolu- 
 tions in a minute ? 
 
 50 x 8 400, divided by 40 = 10 teeth, ans. 
 
 To find the number of revolutions made by the last, to one revolution of 
 the first, when several pinions or wheels work in contact in a train. 
 
 RULE. Divide the product of all the teeth in the drivers by 
 product of all the teeth in the driven; the quotient is the number 
 or ratio desired. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 A wheel of 36 teeth drives a pinion of 7 upon whose shaft is a wheel of 
 28 teeth that drives a pinion of 5, upon whose shaft is a wheel of 70 teeth, 
 that drives a pinion of 12, how many revolutions does the last pinion make 
 to one revolution of the first wheel V 
 
 T* ^r T* = 168 revolutions, answer. 
 
 Probably the foregoing examples will serve all practical pur- 
 poses for calculating the required speed for the different machines, 
 pulleys, gears, &c., as the sizes of the pulleys, gears, &c., connected 
 with the different machines such as the Loom, Card, Shear, 
 Dresser, &c., are usually regulated and attached to speed each con- 
 necting part so that they will work together, so that by changing 
 the speed to their main driver, the speed of the whole of the ma- 
 chine will be effected uniformly.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 123 
 
 EEMARKS ON MACHINE BELTING. 
 
 The following observations, remarks and facts on Machine 
 Belting with directions for use, and the corresponding driving 
 powers of different kinds of bands and pulleys, &c., &c., were fur- 
 nished the author, by the well known and extensive manufactu- 
 rers and dealers in Belts and Belting of all descriptions, MESSRS. 
 FAIKKROTHKR & FALES, Pawtucket, E. I. 
 
 TABLE 
 
 DRIVING POWER OF DIFFERENT KINDS OF BANDS AND 
 PULLEYS. 
 
 Experiments made by Hoyt Brothers, at their Manufactory, N. Y. 
 
 This table gives the relative driving power of Leather Belting 
 with both grain and flesh side to pulley, also of Rubber, Gutta 
 Percha and Canvas. The Pulleys on which the experiments 
 were made were the .same in size, on one shaft, and their surfaces 
 severally of leather, polished iron, rough turned iron, and pol- 
 ished mahogany. The bands were passed over the pulley, one 
 end made fast and stationary, and on the other end one pound 
 weight was suspended to every square inch contact surface of the 
 band and pulley. 
 
 The number of pounds required to slip the band are given ; 
 also the number of pounds strain on the band at which it will 
 cease to slip ; and also number of pounds required to make it 
 continue to slide. 
 
 The belts were in like condition, and had the same contact sur- 
 face, the same strain ; consequently it is easy to determine the 
 relative value of each for driving machinery, also that of pulleys.
 
 124 
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 m" 2 ar if = 
 ll_m t 
 
 -- c 
 
 o 
 
 2 'diis I 
 
 01 88880 I rH | -*, ^ 
 
 ?! ! ~ i i i 
 
 di{9 01 
 
 80U8UIUIOO 
 
 d;is oj ^, 
 
 801IOUHUOO * 
 
 diis I ^ 
 
 01 98B80 TH 
 
 dip ot. ['* 4d 
 
 aonararaoo i C I H 
 
 dip HJ 
 1 asuoo 
 
 s 
 
 di[s 01 
 
 !S 01 88B80 
 
 i_ S *'d!is 
 
 O IS aauaraui 
 
 luioo 
 
 , - ti 
 
 *||9J HI | 
 
 t ~~ - ~ 
 
 i"s -s^S = 
 
 <s-l 
 
 S 
 ' g ? 
 
 I I | 
 
 i ! ! 
 1 1 1 r i r '
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 125 
 
 DEDUCTIONS AND CONCLUSIONS DRAWN FROM 
 FOREGOING -TABLE. 
 
 Pulleys covered with leather, with grain side of baud to pulley, 
 will sustain 50 per cent, more resistance than without the pulley 
 being covered. The per cent, of resistance of the bands on the 
 different pulleys is nearly as follows, and this per cent, will indi- 
 cate the relative working value of each pulley respectively : 
 
 Iron Pulley covered with Leather, 36 per cent. 
 " Polished,- - - 24 
 " Rough Turned, - 15 " 
 
 Wood, Polished Mahogany, - 25 " 
 
 100 
 
 Full six per cent, should be added to the Polished Iron Pulley, 
 to make allowances for the difference between commencing to slip 
 and its sliding ; thus making polished pulley thirty per cent, or 
 next in value to leather. 
 
 The relative or comparative working per cent, of the different 
 bands, as indicated by the Table, is nearly as follows : 
 
 Leather, grain or smooth side to Pulley, 31 per cent. 
 Leather, flesh side to Pulley, - 23 
 
 Rubber, 21 
 
 (iutta Perch a, - - 14 " 
 
 Canvas, - .... 11 " 
 
 100 
 
 Thus Leather Belts, grain side to pulley, will drive 34 per 
 cent, more than flesh side to pulley, 48 per cent, more than 
 Rubber,- -121 per cent, more than Gutta Perch a, 180 per cent, 
 more than Canvas; consequently the very. best arrangement for 
 Belting, is to use it with grain side to drum or pulley, and have 
 the pulley covered with leather. This is best in all cases. The 
 next best pulley is polished iron, especially for quick motions. 
 Polished wood next, and rough iron last in value. 
 
 Leather, used with grain side to pulley will not only do more 
 work, but last longer than if used with flesh to same. The fibre 
 of the grain side, is more compact and fixed than that of the 
 flesh, and more of its surface is constantly brought in contact or 
 impinges on the particles of the pulley. The two surfaces, that
 
 126 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 of the band and that of the pulley, should be make as smooth as 
 possible the more so the greater the contact surface and the 
 more the particles of each impinge on the other. The smoother 
 the two surfaces, the less air will pass under the band and be- 
 tween it and the pulley the air preventing the contact of band 
 with pulley the greater this contact the more machinery will 
 the band drive. The more uneven the surface of band and pulley, 
 the more strain will be necessary to prevent bands from slipping. 
 What is lost by want of contact, must be made up by extra strain 
 on the band, in order to make it drive the machinery required 
 oftentimes, if the band is laced, causing the lacings to break, the 
 holes to tear out, or fastenings of whatever kind to give way. 
 This want of contact is noticeable on most of new bauds used 
 with flesh side to pulley, antl is distinctly marked by dark im- 
 pressions on the band where it comes in contact with the pulley. 
 Oftentimes not half of the surface will be found to have come in 
 contact, and until it is worn smooth, or filled in with other sub- 
 stances, the full extent of the power of the band is not obtained. 
 Bauds used with grain side to the pulley will never crack, as 
 the strain in passing it is thrown on the flesh side, which is not 
 liable to crack or break, the grain not being strained any more 
 than any other portions of the band. When a piece of leather is 
 bent or doubled, the fibre on the outer surface of the curve 
 formed is stretched or extended, while that of the inner surface is 
 crowded together, there being a point between the two extremes 
 where it remains unchanged in its surface, this niav be termed 
 the fulcrum point. The thicker the band, the further is this 
 point from the pulley, consequently any unevenness in the band 
 serves as a wedge to increase its tension as it passes on to the 
 pulley, and to decrease as it passes off, causing, when the velocity 
 js great, sudden jerks upon the band, and an irregularity of mo- 
 tion this irregularity is easily perceived where machinery revol- 
 ves with great velocity. 
 
 Therefore, Bands for Saws and Bloiuers, or where quick 
 motion is wanted, should be made as level or even as possible, 
 and endless if practicable. In slow motion, any uneveness of the 
 band would not be noticed, as the extra strain would be so grad- 
 ual as not to cause any irregularity of motion. 
 
 Where thick joints are ivanted, they should be made as short as 
 practicable, for the reason, that if short, there will be less strain
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 127 
 
 upon the band as it passes the pulley ; there being the same dif- 
 ference as between the introduction of a long and short Avedge. 
 
 When bands are run horizontally, the driving half should be 
 the lower half when practicable, then as it stretches, the loose 
 or upper half will cover more and more of the pulley surface. If 
 run contrariwise, then, as the band stretches, it will fall from the 
 pulleys, having less of contact surface. 
 
 Long horizontal band's are so far desirable, as that their weight 
 increases their contact with the pulley. Double bands have this 
 advantage to a great extent. 
 
 Bands connecting pulleys perpendicular to each other should be 
 kept tightly strained, and should be of well stretched leather, as 
 their weight tends to decrease their close contact with the lower 
 pulley. 
 
 Bands of coarse, loose leather will do better service in dry, warm 
 places, than in wet or moist. For use in these last named places, 
 bands should be made of the finest and firmest leather. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CALCULATING THE WIDTH OF BELTS RE- 
 QUIRED FOR TRANSMITTING DIFFERENT NUMBERS OF HORSE 
 POWER. 
 
 The following calculations were predicated on the basis of 
 allowing each square inch of belting in contact with the drum or 
 pulley, to raise half a pound one foot high in one minute, and the 
 raising of 36,000 pounds same height in same time as a horse 
 power. 
 
 By increasing the tension of the belt much more than a half 
 may be allowed to the square inch. 
 
 Multiply 36,000 by the number of horse power ; divide the 
 amount by the number of feet the belt is to run per minute; 
 divide the quotient by the number of feet or parts of a foot in 
 length of belt contact with smaller drum or pulley ; divide this 
 last quotient by six, and the result is the required width of belt 
 in inches. 
 
 Example : Required the width of belt, the velocity of which is
 
 128 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 1,600 feet per minute, to transmit twenty horse-power, the diam- 
 eter of smaller drum being four feet : 36,000 x 20=720,000 -j-1,- 
 600=450. 
 
 Diameter of smaller drum being four feet, the circumference 
 over twelve feet, we will suppose the other drum so near and so 
 large as to leave but five feet of the smaller drum's circumference 
 in contact with belt the 450-7-5=90 6=1 o inches, the re- 
 quired width of belt. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CALCULATING THE NUMBER OF HORSE- 
 POWER WHICH A BELT WILL TRANSMIT, ITS VELOCITY AND 
 THE NUMBER OF SQUARE INCHES IN CONTACT WITH THE 
 PULLEY BEING KNOWN. 
 
 Divide the number of square inches of belt in contact with the 
 pulley by two ; multiply this quotient by the velocity of the belt 
 in feet per minute, and this amount divided by 36,000. and the 
 quotient is the number of horse-power. 
 
 Example: A twenty-inch belt is being moved with a velocity 
 of 2,000 feet per minute, with six feet of its length in contact 
 with the circumference of a four feet drum desired its horse- 
 power : 20x72=1,440 2= 720x2,000 = 1,440,000-^- 36,000=40 
 horse power. 
 
 TO FIND THE LENGTH OF A DRIVING BELT. 
 
 Suppose the distance from the centre of the driving-shaft to 
 the centre of the pulley-axle, of any machine to be driven, is 10 
 feet, the diameter of the pulley on the driving-shaft is 16 inches, 
 and the diameter of driven pulley is 12 inches, what length of 
 belt will be required ? 
 
 K u L E . 
 
 Double the distance, which is here 10, and add the diameter of 
 the two pulleys together, and multiply the product by 3, or more 
 correctly by 3 ; this product divide by 2, and added to the 
 double of the distance between the shafts, will be the length of 
 belt required.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTUEEE. 129 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 Ft, In. Feet. 
 
 1 4 driving pulley. 10 from centre to centre of shafts. 
 1 driven " 2 
 
 24 20 double. 
 
 3 Add 3 
 
 2)7 23| length of belt. 
 
 3^ feet around the pulleys. 
 
 TO FIND THE LENGTH OF A CKOSS-BELT FOR THE 
 SAME PLACE. 
 
 Proceed in the same manner as with the other, with this differ- 
 ence : add the diameters of the two pulleys together, and multi- 
 ply the product by 3, and that product again by 2 ; divide the 
 sum of these multiplications by 3 : this last product, added to 20, 
 will give the required length of the cross-belt. 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 Ft. In. Feet. 
 
 14 10 
 
 1 2 
 
 24 20 
 
 3 48 
 
 70 24 8 
 
 2 
 
 3)14 
 
 4 8 
 24 feet 8 inches, length of cross-belt. 
 
 THE TEARING OFT OF LACE HOLES. 
 
 THE more thoroughly stretched the band, the more liable will 
 it be to be complained of in this respect ; not that stretching 
 17
 
 130 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 properly done (i. e. wet stretching) injures the fibre of the band, 
 but that too much allowance is made for stretch, in cutting off the 
 proper length, or in fact the band is made too short. If it is then 
 put upon the pulleys it must be strained to its utmost tension, in 
 order to make the ends come together; when laced, the strain 
 upon it will be of itself almost sufficient to break out the lace- 
 holes. When the machine is set in motion, the extra strain is 
 more than the band will bear, and it gives way in its weakest 
 place, the lacing breaks or the holes tear out. Then, in all prob- 
 ability, the broken ends will be cut off on a line with the holes, 
 making the band still shorter, new holes punched, and the band 
 strained upon the pulleys, to break away again, with like result. 
 The leather is then pronounced worthless. A band properly 
 stretched will readily yield as it is tightened, and consequently 
 the lacing would not be liable to break or tear out. 
 
 THE PUTTING ON OF BELTS. 
 
 CARE should be taken that the ends of bands, if to " be butted" 
 together, are cut square across, else a crook may be made in the 
 band, and the belt-maker be blamed for it. The shafting of the 
 pulleys to be connected should be parallel to each other, and the 
 centre of each pulley on a line at right angles to the shafting, or 
 the bands will not run well on the pulleys. If the belt is made 
 endless by a lap-joint, the edges of such joint should be on a right 
 line with each edge of the band. 
 
 WIDTH OP BELTING AND SIZE OF PULLEYS. 
 
 THERE seems to be a groAving disposition among Machinists, 
 Millwrights, and others, to make their pulleys and drums of such 
 size and width as will require as narrow and short a band as pos- 
 sible, in order to save expense. This false economy seldom de- 
 creases the first cost of machinery, and only saves in first cost of 
 belting. This small amount saved is soon lost many times over 
 by stoppage of machinery, slipping of bands, and consequent loss 
 of time^ extra strain on the shafting, and an increased amount of
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 131 
 
 friction, requiring additional driving power, and by causing the 
 more rapid wear of belts. 
 
 In almost every case where pulleys or drums are not perpen- 
 dicular to each other, the " following half of band" should be so 
 loose as that its centre should fall some inches below a right line 
 drawn from the points where this half of band comes in contact 
 with either pulley. Whatever strain is thrown on the loose or 
 following half of bands, in order to make them do the required 
 amount of work, is just so much unnecessarily added to the fric- 
 tion of the shafting or machinery ; and the wear is the same, and 
 a loss of power to the amount required to overcome this friction. 
 Were pulleys made of a proper size and width, and then covered 
 with leather, the belts run with grain side to the pulley, thou- 
 sands of tons of coal might be saved annually, and an immense 
 amount of water-power. 
 
 COVERING OF PULLEYS AND DRUMS WITH 
 LEATHER, 
 
 THE importance of this is realized but by few persons who 
 have charge of or use machinery. Fifty per cent, more work can 
 be done on machines without belts slipping, if pulleys are covered 
 with leather. The closer the band hugs to the^pulley, the less 
 tightly will it need to be strained, the longer time will the band 
 last, the less friction of machinery, and consequently the less 
 power required to drive it. The covering of the pulleys with 
 leather, in many establishments where there is a deficiency of 
 power, would produce such an improvement as to astonish those 
 not acquainted with its value. Large pulleys and drums may b.e 
 covered by narrow strips of leather, or by being wound spirally 
 narrow pulleys should have leather the same width as the pulley 
 surface. 
 
 OILING AND GREASING OF BELTS. 
 
 CARE should be taken that belts are kept soft and pliable. The 
 question is often asked, "What is best for this purpose ?" We
 
 132 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER, 
 
 advise, when the belt is pliable, and only dry and husky, the 
 application of blood-warm tallow ; this applied and dried in by 
 heat of the fire or sun, will tend to keep the leather in good work- 
 ing condition; the oil of the tallow passes into the fibre of the 
 leather, serving to soften it, and the stearine is left on the outside 
 to fill the pores and leave a smooth surface, The addition of resin 
 to the tallow for belts used in wet or damp places, will be of ser- 
 vice, and help preserve their strength. Belts which have become 
 hard and dry, should have an application of neat's foot or liver 
 oil mixed with a small quantity of resin; this prevents the oil 
 from injuring the belt and helps to preserve it. There should 
 not be so much resin as to leave the belt sticky. 
 
 Binders should never be used, as it takes power to drive them, 
 besides they will injure any kind of belt when used. 
 
 mmm uihg f ubfor, ifuita Jjqclra & o 
 
 ARE THE DEAREST ARTICLES TO USE FOR BAPS. 
 
 UNDER the same circumstances and on the same machines, 
 these bands will not last or Avear one-fourth as long as leather. 
 AVhen once they begin to give out it is next to impossible to re- 
 pair them. 
 
 Wide bands cannot be used for, or cut up into narrower ones, 
 as leather can be. 
 
 Leather belts may be used over and over again, and when of 
 no further value for belts, can be sold for other purposes. 
 
 A rubber band, costing hundreds of dollars, may be spoiled in 
 a few moments, by the lacing giving out and the band being run 
 off into the gearing, or by being caught in any manner so as to 
 damage the edge ; or by stoppage of either the driving or driven 
 pulley. A few moments of quick motion or friction, will roll off 
 the gum from the canvas in such quantities as to spoil the band. 
 Leather belts may be torn or damaged, yet are easily repaired.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 133 
 
 Should a rubber or gum belt begin to tear by being caught in 
 the machinery, if the rent strikes the seam it is most certain to 
 follow it, even the entire length, if the machinery is not stopped. 
 It would be impossible to tear leather in a like manner. 
 
 Oil in contact with rubber belting, will soften the gum so as to 
 be like dough. Put a piece into oil for a day or so, and then ex- 
 amine it, and test the truth of this statement. Oil or grease pro- 
 duces an acid which will destroy or rot the vegetable fibre of the 
 canvas in a short time. 
 
 Such a degree of heat as would not burn leather, if applied to 
 rubber or gutta percha bands, will so act upon the small particles 
 or quantity of gum which is contained in the outside coating, as 
 to cause it to roll off easily when slight friction is applied ; in fact, 
 the whole mass loses its adhesiveness and becomes disintegrated. 
 
 The seams of rubber and gutta percha are covered by a strip 
 of rubber, which will not stand as much heat as leather, and next 
 to no amount of friction. When this seam is destroyed, the band 
 is destroyed, or at least is liable to part, thus rendering the band 
 of no more use than if the whole were coated with like material. 
 
 Eubber, gutta percha, and canvas belts will continue to stretch 
 as long as in use, rendering it necessary to shorten them contin- 
 ually. 
 
 During freezing weather, if moisture or water finds its way into 
 the seams, or between the different layers of canvas composing 
 these bauds, and becomes frozen, the layers are torn apart, and the 
 band is spoiled; or if a pulley becomes frosty, the parts of band 
 in contact with it will be torn off from the canvas and left on the 
 pulley. 
 
 Gum belts will not answer for "cross" or ' half-cross belts," for 
 " shifting belts," " cone pulleys," or for any places where belts are 
 liable to slip, as friction destroys them. 
 
 In fact, buying a rubber, gutta percha, or canvas belt is very 
 much like buying a sickly horse at 33 per cent, less than a good 
 healthy one would cost. If such a horse is well groomed, used 
 carefully, left in the stable when sick, when the weather is hot, 
 when cold, and when stormy, he may live six months; with ex- 
 treme care and good luck, one may be able to say, that he owns 
 a horse for twelve or eighteen months. Pay 33 per cent, more 
 and buy a good healthy one, use him well and kindly, he is al-
 
 134 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 ways aj; your service, and can be depended upon. After being in 
 nse twelve or fifteen years, he is still good, and if sold, will bring 
 33^ per cent, of his cost. " A word to the wise is sufficient/' A 
 well-made leather band, if properly looked after the width and 
 pulley surface proportioned to the amount of work to be done, 
 will last 12, 15, or 20 years, and yet be of value to work over into 
 narrower belts. 
 
 The majority of those who buy Belting, are not good judges of 
 leather. This fact is taken advantage of by many, and a large 
 quantity of belts are manufactured and sold, that are not what 
 they are represented to be. Some of them are made from purely 
 hemlock-tanned leather, which is colored and made to resemble 
 oak. by the use of alum and quercitron bark. Others are made 
 from dry hide leather, and still others from sole leather, &c. The 
 leather is often cut full length of the side, without being 
 stretched, or if not, it is stretched in the side and tlien cut; either 
 way making a poor article of belting. Those who purchase of 
 MESSRS. FAIRBROTHER & FALES, may rest assured that there will 
 be no misrepresentation ; that they will obtain a good article of 
 belting, which we warrant to be well stretched, to run truly on 
 the pulleys, and to do good service. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS WISHING ANY KIND OF MACHINERY OR SUP- 
 PLIES, ARE RESPECTFULLY REQUESTED TO QUOTE THE PRICES OF 
 
 THE DEALERS, WHOSE CARDS APPEAR IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES, 
 AS THEY REPRESENT SOME OF THE BEST AND MOST RELIABLE MAN- 
 UFACTURERS OF, AND DEALERS IN THE VARIOUS .ARTICLFS OF 
 MACHINERY AND SUPPLIES, IN THE COUNTRY.
 
 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 135 
 
 INDEX 
 
 PAKT FIRST. Diagrams, 6 
 
 Harness Chain, 7 
 
 Drafting Patterns, 8 
 
 Explanations Diagrams, - 12 
 
 Herringbone Twills, Twists, &c., 16 
 
 Questions and Answers, - - 17 
 
 Stock Calculations, 24 
 
 Spooling and Dressing, - 29 
 
 Reeding, 32 
 
 Laying out Stock, - - 34 
 
 Diagrams, 36 
 
 Explanations Cloth Samples. - 37 
 
 Miscellaneous Designs, - 42 
 
 PART SECOND. Wool Room, - 59 
 
 Scouring Wool, 63 
 
 Dye House, - 67 
 
 Carding Room, 70 
 
 Picker Room, - 71 
 
 Oiling Wool, 73 
 
 Adulterated Oil, - 75 
 
 Spinning Room, 76 
 
 Yarn Calculations, - 81 
 
 Table of weights of Cloths, 85 
 
 Spooling, - 85
 
 136 AMERICAN WOOLEN MANUFACTURER. 
 
 Dressing, - 85 
 
 Weaving Room, - 88 
 
 Finishing Room, 1)0 
 
 Fulling and Flocking, - 90 
 
 Applying Soaps, 91 
 
 Scouring or Washing, - 93 
 
 Water and its effects, - 1)8 
 
 Hardness of Water, - 99 
 
 Soap Solutions, 100 
 
 Neutralizing Hard Water, - 100 
 Gigging, - 101 
 
 Shearing, Pressing, Brushing, fcc., - 102 
 
 Estimates, 103 
 
 Estimate Table, 10!) 
 Rules and Remarks on Wheels, 
 
 Gears, Pulleys, Belting &c , 119 
 
 Remarks on Belting, - 1 23 
 
 Advertisements, 1 37
 
 MAM KA( Tl'ltKKS OF 
 
 Dye Stuffs, Dy e Woods & Acids 
 
 47 Fulton Sfi-eei, i\ew Yoivk. 
 
 Office, Hudson River Chemical Works. and Dye 
 Wood Mills, 
 
 BULLS FERRY. N. J. 
 
 mporters of fflye Stuffs and fitaieals, 
 
 MANIKACTIUKKS OK 
 
 DYE WOODS, EXTRACT OF INDIGO, &C. 
 
 SOI.K AOENTS IX THE I XITEI) STATES KOll 
 
 BROOKE. STML J SON'& SPILLER. LONDON. 
 
 AT&AB 41IH1II 
 
 209 & 211 STATE STREET, HARTFORD, CONN. 
 
 L H. FULTON. 
 
 MANUFACTIKEK OF 
 
 OF EVERY DESCRTPTIOX, 
 
 For Goffon, Linen, Worafei & Waolcn Mannfacforics. 
 
 forth lain Street, Wosnsocket, B, I.
 
 WOEOESTER MASS. 
 
 GEORGE 
 
 PROPRIETOR
 
 II x-^ w \^ -x\^ ^*s _i /_LJ _^ _j 
 PROPRIETOR AND MANUFACTURER 
 
 OF THE 
 
 With recent and Important Improvements, rendering 
 
 " it better adapted than ever for fine yarn, high 
 
 speed and extent of figure. 
 
 The variety of Looms made at these Works embrace the Broad Cromptou for 6-4, 
 and the Narrow Loom for 8-4 goods, with a twenty-four harness capacity, operating 
 three or four shuttle-box compartments at each side of the lathe ; specially adapted 
 to all descriptions of cotton and woolen goods, including Fancy Cassimeres, Balmo- 
 rals, Shawls, &c. Cam Looms, both broad and narrow, of any desired width, and 
 with a variety of harness movement, arranged with one or a plurality of- shuttles for 
 Flannels, Domets, Broadcloths, &c. Cotton and Worsted Fancy Looms, with great 
 capacity for Harness and Shuttles, operating at the highest speed. 
 
 Jgp" MANUFACTURERS AHE CAUTIONED against purchasing Looms of other makers 
 INFRINGING on the many Patents I hold for Improvements in Fancy Looms, and 
 are advised to take WRITTEN GUARANTEES, so that in case of suit, and recovery of 
 damages, the loss may be sustained by the maker.
 
 JAMES I, HAKWAY & CO., 
 
 of all inta ni 
 
 f f 
 
 *"^XT' (Svr< 
 
 fl 
 
 
 
 Byewood Extracts and Liquors, 
 
 I hcu Import ani> i)c;i( in a(l 
 
 AND 
 
 1 . A L 8 
 
 THK I'KonrcT OK OTIIKIS Cot NTKIKS
 
 ivrro w L E s 
 
 TTTTC ONLY 
 
 Ever made that was 
 
 CHEAP, COMPACT, AND 
 
 UNYIELDING. 
 
 Extreme height, screw raised, 
 11 ft. 2 in. 
 
 Extreme height, screw lower'd 
 9 ft. 1 in. 
 
 Length of Rods between the 
 Trusses, 7 ft. 6. 
 
 Length of Follower between 
 posts, 2 ft. 10 in. 
 
 Width of Follower, 1 ft. 4 in. 
 
 Between Base and Follower, 
 Screw r raised feet. 
 
 Between Base and Follower. 
 Screw lowered, 3 ft. in. 
 
 Whole length of Screw, 4 feet. 
 Thread on Screw, 3 feet. 
 
 PRICES, 34 inch, $225. 42 inch, $250. 46 inch, $275. 
 
 OTHER SIZES MADE TO ORDER. 
 
 MANVKAtTt:UED J5Y 
 
 L. J. KNOWLES & BHPTHEI^, 
 At. their Loom Works, - - Worcester., Mass.
 
 KNOWLES' PATENT COMBINED HAND AND POWER PRESS, 
 
 Can be run 
 with belt or 
 hand power, 
 and at a price 
 within the 
 reach of all. 
 
 PRICES. 
 34 inch, $325 
 42 inch, :350 
 40 inch, 375 
 
 Other sizes 
 made to order. 
 
 Extreme height Screw raised. 
 11 ft. 2 in. 
 
 Extreme height, Screw lowered, 
 9 ft. 1 in. 
 
 Length of Rods between Trusses. 
 7 ft. 6 in. 
 
 Length of Follower between posts. 
 2 ft. 10 in. 
 
 Width of Follower, 1 ft, 4 in. 
 
 Between Base and Follower, screw 
 raised, (i feet. 
 
 Between Base and Follower, screw 
 lowered. 3 ft. fi in. 
 
 Whole length of Screw. 4 feet. 
 
 Thread on Screw, 3 feet. 
 
 (Speed of Worm Shaft, 100 to 125.1 
 
 We have now manufactured 
 he Hand Ratchet Press for many 
 years, and it has 
 proved itself 
 adapted to the 
 wants of manu- 
 facturers to a 
 certain extent, 
 but we have for 
 a long time felt 
 the increasing 
 want of a press 
 which would 
 <ave the time 
 of 'the number 
 
 of men necessary to work the hand press, and which should be suitable for those mills not requiring 
 a Hydraulic Press. We now oft'er to our patrons, as the result of our experiments in this direc- 
 tion, 
 
 OUR PATENT COMBINED HAND AND POWER SCREW PRESS, 
 
 \Vliich combines all those qualities \\ h i< h are necessary to make 
 
 L. J. KXOWLKN 
 
 V. U, J
 
 I nowles' Patent Eight Harness 6am Loom. 
 
 L. J. KNOWLES & BROTHER, 
 
 \I AMK.U TfUKKS OF 
 
 WITH OK WITHOUT DROP BOXKS. 
 
 Corner o[ Main nib Sout)ilbric)^e Streets. 
 KNOWLES, F. B. KNOWLES,
 
 L J. MOWLES & BROTHER, 
 
 MAXrFACTl KKKS OF 
 J. K N O W I- E S ' 
 
 ADAPTED FOR WEAVINli EVEKY KIND OF NARROW FABRIC, SUCH AS 
 
 Stis/pendex^ wit h 
 Woven 15 lit toil 
 and 
 
 JSf The Inventor has devoted years of study and experience to improvements in 
 Machinery for the manufacture of the above named and many other kinds of narrow 
 fabric, never before produced in this country. And in addition-, the Company build 
 improved machines for preparing and finishing the goods, consisting of 
 
 Spoolers, "Warpers, Quillers, Dressing, 
 Calendering, Winding, Folding, 
 
 Aid various Machines used in fhe Manufacture of Narrow Ware Goods, 
 
 All of which are secured by Letters Patent;
 
 n Pfl 
 
 ID., 
 
 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 _>> 
 
 AND ALL OTHER MACHINERY 
 
 TJSED IN COTTON OR WOOLEN FACTORIES. 
 
 Patentees and Sole Manufacturers of their improved 
 
 Patent Machine ire Heddles, 
 
 FOR WOOLEN, COTTON AND SILK, 
 
 Warranted not to Catch the Warp Thread in the Eye, Patented 
 July 14, 1868, and April 19, 1870, 
 
 Hi & 48* 
 
 ISTEW YORK. 
 
 WHOLESALE DEALERS TX 
 
 AMU 
 AM 
 
 MARCELLTTS, NEW YORK. 
 
 Orders Solicited and Promptly attended to. 
 
 THUS. PHILLIPS. J- B. VAN VKANKEN.
 
 & GUILD, 
 
 15 MECHANIC ST., WORCESTER, MASS. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 IMPROVED WIRE HEDDLES, 
 
 
 
 And Dealers in every variety of 
 
 MANUFACTURERS' SUPPLIES, 
 
 CONSISTING IN PART OF 
 
 Baskets, 
 
 Card Clothing. 
 
 Heddles, Pat. Wire & Tin, 
 
 Press Papers, 
 
 Belting, 
 
 Card Brushes, 
 
 Lace Leather. 
 
 Rivets and Burs, 
 
 Belt Hooks. 
 
 Card Clamps, 
 
 Picker Leather, 
 
 Reeds of all kinds. 
 
 Belt Punches, 
 
 Card Tooth Pullers. 
 
 Roller Leather. 
 
 Reed Hooks, 
 
 Belt Awls, 
 
 Cloth Scales, 
 
 Roller Cloth. 
 
 Reed Brushes, 
 
 Bobbins, 
 Brooms, 
 
 Cotton Warps, 
 Kmerv, 
 
 Loom Cord and Straps, 
 Loom Dusters, 
 
 Shuttles, Spools, 
 Sheep Shears, 
 
 Brushes, 
 
 Feed Scales, 
 
 Lining Metal. Thurber's, 
 
 Spindles, 
 
 Baling Hooks, 
 Baling Needles. 
 Burling Irons, 
 
 Fulling Mill Needles, 
 Fulling Mill Springs, 
 Gig Rings, 
 
 Lining do. Babbitt's, 
 Malleable Oilers, 
 Wilder' s & Thompson's 
 
 Spinning Rings, 
 Ring Travellers, 
 Traveller Brushes. 
 
 Comb Plates, 
 
 Harness Frames, 
 
 Oilers, 
 
 Teasels, 
 
 Oomh Cleaners, 
 Cleaner Handles. 
 
 " Hooks and Eves, 
 " Studs and Wire, 
 
 Pickers, 
 Pick Glasses. 
 
 Tapes, Twines, 
 Temples, Wrenches. 
 
 Cordage, 
 
 " Twine, 
 
 Packing, 
 
 Tenter Hooks. 
 
 Perforated Copper for Wool Rinsers, 
 
 And every article consumed in Manufacturing 
 
 COTTO1V 
 
 Wool and Waste Pickers, Spindle Baud Machines, Waste Dustei s, Bobbin Winders, Willowers, Spoolers, 
 Chase's Patent Flock Cutters, Belt Tighteners. Burring Ma 
 Lathes, Slide Rests, Regulators, and Blithe various kinds of 
 
 COTTON AND WOOLEN MACHINERY, 
 
 With the Latest Improvements, at the Manufacturers' Lowest Cash Prices. 
 
 FLOCKS, WOOL WASTE, AND SECOND-HAND MACHINERY ON COMMISSION, 
 
 (CONSIGNMENTS SOLICITED.) 
 
 LEFFEL'S DOUBLE TURBINE WATER WHEEL, 
 
 THE BEST IN USE.
 
 COUTT & BATTIE. 
 
 Successors to HARVY HOAG, Dealers in 
 
 FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC WOOL, 
 
 No. 65 PINE STREET, 
 
 JOSEPH COUTT, 
 THAS. M. BATTIE. 
 
 Consignments Solicited. Liberal Advances made. 
 
 BAUENDAHL & CO, 
 
 86 & 88 WORTH STREET, 
 
 WALTER BAUENDAHL, i 
 
 L. J. STIASTNY. P 0. 
 
 HENRY BAUENDAHL. 1 
 
 BOX 961. 
 
 D. H. SPARHAWK-& CO. 
 
 FOR THE PURCHASE AXD SALE OF, ALSO DEALERS IX 
 
 Wool and Cotton Waste, Shoddy, Flocks, &c. &c. 
 Nos. 87 Milk & 88 Congress Sts. 
 
 D. H. 8PAK1IAWK, 1 
 
 H. T. WINO, 
 
 II. \V. STONK. ) 
 
 Sole Agents for F. B. Ey's Scoured Wools, Shoddy, Ac. Also, Agents for Waterhouse Bros.' Flocks.
 
 HAMILTON FLOCK CO. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN 
 
 WATBR SYRHHf, WORCE3YER, MASS. 
 
 D. R. WHITNEY & CO 
 
 IMPORTERS OF 
 
 i 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 MO ILK flpw, OSTON, ASS, 
 
 D. R. WHITNEY. CHARLES W. SLADE. 
 
 All Orders Filled Promptly and at the Very Lowest Prices, 
 
 BOSTON DYEWOOD& CHEMICAL CO. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 DYE WOOD LIQUORS AND EXTRACTS. 
 
 AND IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN 
 
 -Drugs, Eye Stuffs- and Chemicals, 
 
 116 Milk, corner Batterymarch Sjpet, 
 
 EDW. F. PORTER, Pres't, TR n c T nM GAYTON P. mRING, ) n . w 
 JOS. C. STEVENS, Treas. f>0TON. CHAS. E. THALER, J M
 
 IMPORTERS AND WHOLESALE DEALERS TN 
 
 fl VF 
 
 1JIL 
 
 INDIGO, GUMS, <5cC_, 
 
 POTATO STARCH, REO and WHITE LARD and OLIVE OILS, 
 
 AND ALL ARTICLES CONSUMED TN 
 
 DTEI1G, BLIiCeild AID fillSIIM 
 
 AI>SO MAX I ' K ACT I : UK KS OK 
 
 Dyeioofls, DJBI ooi Liprs, Eitracts, &c,, 
 
 6, 7 and 8 Exchange Place, 
 
 PROVIDENCE, R I.
 
 THE GILBERT LOOM CO 
 
 ., 
 
 BL1LDEKS OK 
 
 Using two to twenty-four Harnesses, with three or 
 four Shuttle Box Compartments. 
 
 This Loom has the Harness and Chain Motion at the top and one end, with 
 Horizontal Working Jacks, and is not liable to miss picks. 
 
 TO Side Levers, using two to six Harnesses, with or without Drop Sous, 
 
 CAM LOOIS, GUMY BAG, WORSTED 
 AID GIIGHAI LOOIS. 
 
 The above are in widths from 3 quarters to 15 quarters. 
 
 sou-: nriU)Ei;s FOR THK 
 
 DAVIS PATENT TAPESTHT LOOM, 
 
 ALSO PRINTING DRUMS AND SETTING MACHINERY. 
 
 We give especial attention to the building of Looms for 
 any class of work, and
 
 MARBLE'S IMPROVED PERPETUAL 
 
 SHEARIW 
 
 CURTIS 
 
 WORCESTER, MASS., 
 MANUFACTURERS OF CLOTH FINISHING MACHINERY, 
 
 FOR ALL KINDS OF WOOLEN AND COTTON GOODS, 
 
 Cross Cut Shears for Fine Goods ; also Mat and Brush Shears. 
 
 DOUBLE AND SINGLE ACTING GIGS, 
 
 Napping and Brushing Machines, Cloth Winders, Shear Grinders, Patent 
 
 Reversible Flock Cutters, Water Wheel Regulators, Rag Cutters, 
 
 Flock and Rag Dusters, Flock Renovators, Copper Bottoms 
 
 for Wool Washers, Gig Slats, &c. 
 
 Particular Attention Paid to Shear Grinding and Repairing. 
 
 WB8&VB8
 
 THE 
 
 1 
 A MONTHLY PAPER, 
 
 Devoted to the Interests of textile lanifaetirers, 
 Dyers and Bleachers. 
 
 Subscription $1.00 per annum within the United States. 
 
 " 1.25 " " in Canada and Europe. 
 
 Special rates for clubs. 
 
 ^ j 
 
 18 Exchange Place, lew York City. 
 
 P. O. BOX, 1396. 
 
 GOIMES OF 
 
 CAN BE OBTAINED OF 
 
 GEO. C. BURNS, 
 
 MOHEOAN, R. I. 
 
 DAW SON & GUILD, 
 
 WORCESTER, MASS. 
 
 TO ANY ADDRESS FOR $6.50.
 
 2 
 
 7516
 
 Ill II Mill II Mil I II II II I INI 
 
 AA 000902918 2 
 
 CENTRAL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 University of California, San Diego 
 
 DATE DUE 
 
 MAR 22 1975 
 
 
 MAR 04 AER' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 C139 
 
 UCSD Lifer.