GIFT OF With the compliments of the author ELISE WILLING BALGH IN MEMORIAM ELISE WILLING BALGH IN MEMORIAM BY EDWIN SWIFT BALCH PRIVATELY PRINTED PHILADELPHIA 1917 \ Copyright, 1917, by EDWIN SWIFT BALCH PRESS OF ALLEN, LANE AND SCOTT PHILADELPHIA TABLE OF CONTENTS. I. GIRLHOOD 9 II. SOCIETIES AND CHARITIES 13 TEAS. LUNCHEONS. DINNERS. PAR TIES. ASSEMBLIES. BENEDICKS. MID WINTER. FORTNIGHTLY CLUB. CAV ENDISH. ROUND DOZEN. COOKING CLASS. FRENCH CLASS. READING CLASS. BEASTON CLASS. CONTEM PORARY CLUB. ACORN CLUB. SEDGELEY CLUB. COLONY CLUB. GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY. HISTORICAL SOCIETY. PENNSYLVANIA FORESTRY. CITY PARKS. ANTI SUFFRAGE. VAL LEY FORGE. WILLING DAY NURSERY. INDIAN S HOPE. MORRIS REFUGE. COLONIAL GOVERNORS. COLONIAL DAMES. III. LITERATURE AND MUSIC 39 EDWARD SHIPPEN. PRINCE DE BROGLIE. THE FRENCH IN AMERICA. MELODY CLUB. MENDELSSOHN CLUB. CON CERTS. BOSTON SYMPHONY. GRAND OPERA. MUSICALES. CONCERT FOR MORRIS REFUGE. PHILADELPHIA OPERATIC SOCIETY. IV. TRAVELS 51 JOURNEYS TO EUROPE IN 1886, 1887, 1889, 1890, 1891, 1894, 1895, 1896, 1897, 1899, 1901, 1902; AND TO THE PACIFIC COAST IN 1900. V. LETTERS FROM NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUS SIA AND GERMANY 101 VI. LAST DAYS.. 153 ELISE WILLING BALGH IN MEMORIAM I. GIRLHOOD. Elise Willing Balch, daughter of Thomas Balch and Emily Swift Balch his wife, was born on 30 July, 1853, at "Woodfield," the country place of her grand father Joseph Swift, on the Old York Road, Phila delphia. Like many people of old American stock, she was descended from several European nationalities, among them English, Scotch, and Swedes; and also from some French Huguenots. She numbered among her colonial ancestors many distinguished men who helped to build up and develop the colonies of Pennsylvania, Maryland and New York. And in England her lineage ran back, through Sir Thomas Forster, Judge of the Common Pleas in 1607, the Forsters of North umberland and the de Umfravilles, to Saire de Quincy, Earl of Winchester, one of the sureties of Magna Charta, 15th June, 1215. In May, 1859, she went to Europe with her parents on the Cunard R. M. S. Persia and re mained there until October, 1873. The winters, until the Franco-German war, were spent, with one exception, mostly in Paris, where she resided (9) 10 ELISE WILLING BALCH. at 48, Avenue Gabriel, facing the Champs-Elysees. The winters of 1865-1866, 1870-1871, 1871-1872, 1872-1873, were spent mainly in Germany, and principally in Dresden and in Wiesbaden. As a result she spoke French and German fluently, in deed as well as a native. Naturally, therefore, also, she was educated in France and in Germany. She had two governesses in Paris, Miss Lacoste, a daughter of the First Na poleon s General Lacoste, and Miss Vuilly. She also attended the Cours of Monsieur Remy, in the Rue St. Honore, in which she always stood near the top. Indeed one year, altho there were over fifty French girls in the class, she took first place. In Paris also she went to the dancing school of Celarius, on the Rue Vivienne, and among her special friends were the grandchildren of Mon sieur Guizot, minister of foreign affairs of Louis Philippe. In Germany she attended a private school at Dresden during part of one winter, but her favorite instructor was Miss Varenna at Wies baden, with whom she kept up a life-long friend ship. While thus spending most of the winter months in Paris, Dresden and Wiesbaden, during the sum mers she travelled over the greater part of Cen tral Europe. Several summers were spent in Switz erland: in 1863 she walked across the Mer de Glace. Five summers were spent at the little sea-shore resort IN MEMORIAM. 11 of Lion-sur-Mer, near Caen, on the coast of Nor mandy. Parts of three summers were spent at the watering place of Spa, Belgium, and several visits were made to Homburg vor-der-Hohe. She also, moreover, travelled over much of Germany, Austria, Belgium, Holland, France (including a visit to the Pyrenees), Denmark, Italy and Eng land. On account of her youth, she went but little into society in Europe. Still, on three occasions, she was present at somewhat unusual gatherings. During the winter of 1871-1872, after the Franco- German war, she attended a ball or reception given in the Kursaal at Wiesbaden by the Kronprinz and Kronprinzessin Friedrich of Prussia. On 1st Janu ary, 1873, together with her father and mother, she was presented by the Baroness von Globig, Grande Maitresse de la Cour de Saxe, to the King and Queen of Saxony at a Court Ball in Dresden, where at supper, the company sat at small tables. And in the spring of 1873, on the invitation of Mr. George Bancroft, American minister to Germany, she was present, in the stranger s gallery in the Weisse Saal in the Palace at Berlin, at the opening of the Reichstag. She returned to America in October, 1873, on the Cunard R. M. S. Scotia, and, probably, this was the last crossing to America of a paddle-wheel liner. ELISE WILLING BALCH IN MEMORIAM. 13 II. SOCIETIES AND CHARITIES. TEAS. LUNCHEONS. DINNERS. PARTIES. AS SEMBLIES. BENEDICKS. MID-WINTER. FORT NIGHTLY CLUB. CAVENDISH. ROUND DOZEN. COOKING CLASS. FRENCH CLASS. READING CLASS. BE ASTON CLASS. CONTEMPORARY CLUB. ACORN CLUB. SEDGELEY CLUB. COLONY CLUB. GEO GRAPHICAL SOCIETY. HISTORICAL SOCIETY. PENN SYLVANIA FORESTRY. CITY PARKS. ANTI SUFF RAGE. VALLEY FORGE. WILLING DAY NURSERY. INDIAN S HOPE. MORRIS REFUGE. COLONIAL GOVERNORS. COLONIAL DAMES. In America, after a year spent at Newport, R. I., and a winter at Washington, D. C., Miss Balch lived during the winter months at 1412, Spruce Street, Philadelphia. The summers were passed partly in New England, at Bar Harbor, York Harbor and other such summer resorts; one summer was spent in the Canadian Rockies and on the Pacific coast; and thirteen summers were occupied by trips to Europe. My sister was a busy woman. She was a hard worker and was always occupied. She did some lit erary work and gave a great deal of time to music; she worked hard for numerous societies and charitable organizations, altho much of her charity work was 14 ELISE WILLING BALCH. done by herself; and above all she did a great deal of work for her family. Altogether I think I can say that among her chief characteristics were love of work and unselfishness. She was of a very sociable disposition, and in con sequence went to a great many teas, luncheons, dinners and parties. During the whole of her life she was a regular subscriber to the Assemblies and usually went to both or at least one Assembly every winter. She went to a great many other balls, among them frequently to the Benedicks and the Mid-Winter Balls. She belonged at various times to several dancing organizations, among them the Fortnightly Club, which was started about 1876, and which met in rotation at the houses of the members. In those days Philadelphia society was small com pared to what it is today, and therefore it was still possible to gather into a private dwelling a company representative of society as a whole. She was fond of whist, bridge and euchre. She never played for money, but she was considered an exceedingly good card player and belonged to different card clubs, among which may be men tioned the Cavendish and the Round Dozen. She also belonged at different times to several so cieties of a semi social, semi educational order. She was a member for many years of a " Cooking Class/ where the members took turn-about in cooking luncheon, and thanks to this she became an IN MEMORIAM. 15 excellent cook. Other societies of a similar nature to which she belonged were a " French Class 77 and a " Reading Class/ 7 which met during many winters. Another somewhat similar club to which my sister belonged for many years was the lecture and debating society of Miss Beaston, usually spoken of as the "Beaston Class. 77 It was something of the same nature as the Contemporary Club which she joined shortly after its formation in 1885, on the Executive Committee of which she served in 1894, and of which she remained a member until her decease. Miss Balch joined the Acorn Club about October, 1889, and, I am told, she was probably at one time on what was called the Amusement Committee. She joined the Sedgeley Club in 1897, and Miss Margaret L. Corlies, President of the Sedgeley Club, wrote to me that my sister "was one of the women whom we all warmly welcomed for her kind spirit and never failing appreciation of our efforts to estab lish such a club for the convenience of those who could appreciate our beautiful park. 77 She was elected a member of the Colony Club, New York City, in December, 1908. Of all three of these clubs she remained a member until her decease. Much of my sister 7 s time was devoted to work of a public and benevolent or charitable character. Of much of her charitable work there are no records, because it was done privately. Among the pub- 16 ELISE WILLING BALCH. lie societies of which she was a member, was the Geographical Club, now Geographical Society of Philadelphia, which she joined shortly after its in ception and to which she belonged for about ten years. The Historical Society of Pennsylvania also was one of the associations of which she was a member, having joined it as a life member on 23 December, 1907. She also became, at the request of Mrs. Brinton Coxe, one of the early members of the Pennsylvania Forestry Association for which she paid her entrance fee on 12 October, 1886. She became a life member apparently in April, 1887, and always took great interest in the success of the Association. She was also much interested in the improvement of Phila delphia and she joined the City Parks Association of Philadelphia as a life member on 27 June, 1892, altho she never took any active part in the organization. During the last years of her life, my sister took some interest in the Woman Anti-Suffrage move ment. Mrs. Brinton Coxe informs me that my sister was one of those who joined with her in starting the " Pennsylvania Association Opposed to Woman Suffrage" in the year 1909, and that my sister acted as Treasurer until towards the end of the year 1912. It was purely voluntary labor on her part and an unnecessary tax on her declining strength. After her death, the following Resolu tions were passed by the Executive Board : IN MEMORIAM. 17 "Resolutions. "At a meeting of the Executive Board of the Pennsylvania Association Opposed to Woman Suf frage on the 30th of September, 1913, it was unani mously resolved that "In the death of "Miss Elise Willing Balch "one of the original members of this Association, and for many years our Treasurer, and a most con scientious and untiring worker, we have lost one of our most esteemed and valuable members. "We desire to express to her family our deep sympathy in their bereavement, and our own sense of great and irreparable loss in our work. "GRACE PINE JOHNSON, "Chairman. "(Mrs. Russell Johnson.) " Miss Balch was much interested in the Washing ton Memorial Chapel at Valley Forge. In it she placed, entirely of her own unaided volition, two of the Pews of the Patriots: one to her great-great grandfather, the Rev. Robert Blackwell, D. D., (1748-1831) chaplain to George Washington; the other to her great-grandfather, the Rev. Stephen Bloomer Balch, D. D., (1747-1833) captain in the Revolutionary army, and pastor of the oldest Presbyterian church in Georgetown, now Washing ton, D. C., for fifty-three years. 18 ELISE WILLING BALCH. The Willing Day Nursery was one of the charitable organizations for which Miss Balch earnestly labored, and Mrs. William A. Glasgow kindly sent me the following information about my sister s connection with it: "I have found in old records that: "I. She came on the Board as a Manager in 1891. "II. She was not an officer, but was Secretary pro tern in 1894 for a short time one winter, I think. "In looking over the early reports I find she was a systematic and generous contributor, a yearly subscriber, as well as a donator, and was especially interested in the Xmas Festival, when the chil dren as well as the mothers have a feast, carrying away presents. I find every year that special mention is made of her efforts to carry out this Festival successfully. "Indeed I am impressed with the fact that she will be sadly missed as a member of the Board and friend of the poor." Mrs. A. J. Dallas Dixon writes to me that she "was with your sister on the Board of the Willing Day Nursery for a number of years. She was a most generous and interested member and her loss has been deeply felt by us all. " After my sister s decease, the Board of the Willing Day Nursery passed the following resolutions, received 5 December, 1913: IN MEMORIAM. 19 "Minute. "Resolved: That the members of the Board of Managers of the Willing Day Nursery have heard with profound sorrow of the death of Miss Balch: for many years a dear and personal friend of the members of the Board, and an earnest and efficient co-worker: always generously contributing to its support, and wielding an influence in its manage ment that has been helpful to each member of the Board, who will long deplore her absence. "Resolved: That a copy of these resolutions be sent to the family of Miss Balch. "JEAN GLASGOW, "Secretary." In the Secretary s Report of the Willing Day Nursery, January, 1914, page 8, Mrs. Glasgow writes : "We have to record our profound sorrow for the loss which the Nursery has sustained in the death of Miss Elise Willing Balch, for twenty-three years a member of the Board of Managers; a warm per sonal friend of the members of the Board; an earnest and efficient co-worker and a liberal sup porter. No appeal ever passed unheeded by her, and her influence and generosity will always be held in grateful remembrance. " JEAN GLASGOW, "Secretary." 20 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Another of Miss Balch s fields of charitable en deavors was the Indians Hope Association. Mrs. William Moylan Lansdale, after consulting the Book of St. Peter s Parish, Philadelphia, writes me that St. Peter s Branch of the Woman s Auxiliary to the Board of Missions was organized in December, 1902, and that my sister at that time was appointed a member of a committee from St. Peter s Parish to represent that parish at the monthly meetings of the Indians Hope Association in the Church House. Mrs. A. J. Dallas Dixon writes to me that my sister "was the Treasurer of the Indians Hope Committee of the St. Peter s Branch of the Woman s Auxiliary, of which I was President. She always had most interesting reports to present at the meetings." After Miss Balch s decease, the following resolu tions were passed by the President and Managers of St. Peter s Branch of the Woman s Auxiliary: "It was with deep sorrow and sincere regret that this Branch of the Woman s Auxiliary to the Board of Missions learned, in June last, of the death of a valued member Miss Elise Willing Balch. "For many years past, Miss Balch has been an interested and active member of the Indians Hope Association one of the Committee representing St. Peter s Parish in that Association. "Filled with enthusiasm for the cause of the oppressed Indian, she labored ardently on his be- IN MEMORIAM. 21 half, by giving generously of her means, towards the support of mission work in the Indian reserva tions, and also of her thought and time. "She was thoroughly earnest in her appreciation of the beautiful life and work of Bishop Hare and one of the foremost in getting up the memorial to his memory. "Miss Balch will be very much missed at the Monthly Meetings in the Church House, and in our work for the Indians in this parish. "We offer our sincere sympathy to Mrs. Balch and her family in their great bereavement. "ELIZABETH C. B. LANSDALE, "Secretary. "Sent to Mrs. Balch by order of the President and Managers of St. Peter s Branch of the Woman s Auxiliary. "Parish House of St. Peter s Church " 12th November, 1913." The Morris Refuge Association for Homeless and Suffering Animals appealed strongly to my sister, owing especially to her love for cats. I do not know when she joined the Association but Mrs. Thomas L. Elwyn, the present Secretary, informs me that the records of the President, Mrs. J. Nor man Jackson, date back only to 1889, when the Morris Refuge Association became an independent institution, and that Miss Balch s name was then 22 ELISE WILLING BALCH. on the report as Manager. She was Recording Secretary of the Morris Refuge in 1889 and 1890. She was appointed Trustee of the Endowment Fund in 1899, and Mr. George Peirce informs me that my sister was the originator of the Endowment Fund and chose him as Co-Trustee when it was started. At a meeting of the Morris Refuge Association held 10 November, 1913, the following resolutions were passed: "In the death of Miss Elise Willing Balch the Morris Refuge Association has suffered an irreparable loss. " Connected with the Society almost from its inception, an unfailing source of help and inspira tion, she instilled into all her colleagues enthusiasm for the cause she had so much at heart. "A Trustee of the Endowment Fund, in whose growth she was an important factor, she always responded with open hand to lesser appeals and by her ready kindness lightened the labors and bright ened the lives of those whose task it is to carry on the active work of the Refuge. "Resolved, that a copy of this should be sent to her bereaved mother and family, to each of whom the Board tenders its deep sympathy. " NATALIE J. ELWYN, "Secretary. " November tenth, 1913." IN MEMORIAM. 23 In the Twenty-Sixth Annual Report of the Morris Refuge Association, 1913, page 9, the President, Mrs. J. Norman Jackson, says: "It is with deepest feelings of grief that I speak of the death of Miss Elise Willing Balch, which occurred in the early summer. "For many years a Manager of the Morris Ref uge Ass n, and at one time its Secretary, Miss Balch always evinced the keenest interest in its welfare and growth, and speaking of my own expe rience, she was one to whom I often turned when honest advice was needed, and never did I call on her in vain. She was eager and ready to help either by her counsel which was invariably just and sound, or in any other way which the existing state of affairs seemed to indicate was best. "The Refuge and its President owe to her a debt of gratitude too great to be expressed by any words. "Miss Balch s death left a vacancy not only in the Board of Managers, but in that of the Trustees of the Endowment Fund. "SOPHIA L. JACKSON, "President. " Miss Balch became a member, on 6th February, 1900, of "The Order of The Descendants of Colonial Governors, State of Pennsylvania " in right of descent from three of her ancestors, Robert Brooke, Acting-Governor of Maryland in 1650, Edward 24 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Shippen, Acting-Governor of Pennsylvania in 1703, and Major Thomas Brooke, Acting-Governor of Maryland in 1720. Of all the social or patriotic organizations to which my sister belonged, however, the one in which she was most deeply interested and the one for which she worked hardest was the Society of the Colonial Dames of America. She was one of the earliest members of the parent New York Society, which she joined, I am told, on June 6th, 1890. Miss Katrine Woolsey Carmalt very kindly examined the New York records for me, and in a letter dated 28 January, 1914, says: "I find that Miss Balch s entrance fees were deposited in the bank on July 1st, 1890. So, as the Society was founded May 23rd, she joined as one of the very first. " My sister was instrumental also in founding Chapter II, Philadelphia, in 1891, and of this oc currence Miss Carmalt writes in the same note: "In the letter files I find a letter, dated April 3rd, 1891, from Miss Balch, she asks: Do you consider that you have founded a chapter here/ and adds: besides Mrs. Mason, Mrs. Lewis and me, who are already members, a number of other Philadelphians wished to join your mother s name heads the list." Apparently my sister became Secretary of the Philadelphia Chapter at its inception, for Miss Carmalt also further says: "In the Interrogatory for the Supreme Court, I see that a letter of April IN MEMORIAM. 25 91 is quoted, in which Miss Balch signs as Secretary of the Chapter in Phila. " She afterwards relin quished this position, which she again accepted about January, 1898, and which she continued to hold until the end of her life. My sister was for many years Chairman of the Claims Committee of the Colonial Dames of America, Chapter II, Philadelphia. When she was appointed to this position I do not know, but it may have been at the foundation of the Chapter, and at any rate, it was before the year 1905, since at the Board Meeting of March 21, 1905, she was unani mously empowered to use her full power as Chair man of the Claims Committee in adjusting the eligibility list of the C. D. A. at the coming meeting of the Committee on Eligibility of the C. D. A. Her work on claims was very laborious and took up much time, but her great knowledge of the genealogy of Pennsylvania families made her especially suitable for the position. On March 6, 1906, the Mayflower Society asked that a representative of Chapter II, C. D. A., be named to be invited to the Annual Dinner of the Mayflower Society. The Board was unanimous in appointing Miss Balch as this representative and she greatly enjoyed the event. One of the most important works undertaken by the Colonial Dames of America was the erection of the Memorial Gates at Jamestown, Virginia, in 26 ELISE WILLING BALCH. memory of the earliest English colonial settlement in America. I am not certain whether my sister suggested "Memorial Gates" as the best form of memorial, but I am certain that it was her unflagging interest, her continuous energy, and her unfailing perseverance, which brought the matter to a success ful finish at the proper time. On March 17, 1906, a letter from Mrs. Cheesman, Secretary C. D. A., about the Jamestown celebra tion, was read to the Board. Miss Balch was asked to ascertain all the facts about the celebration. On May 17, 1906, Miss Balch spoke in detail to the Board of the work to be done at Jamestown, and was then appointed Chairman of the Committee to act with the Committee in New York. On November 20, 1906, Miss Balch attended the Con ference of the C. D. A. in New York, where the Baltimore Chapter was also represented. After she had told of her correspondence with the Society for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities and where and how "Memorial Gates" could be placed, she was requested to undertake the Chairmanship of the entire Committee. While she was loyally assisted by the other members of the Committee, the minutes lay especial stress on the help of Mrs. Paul Dana. On the 9th of May, 1907, the Jamestown cele bration took place. The Colonial Dames party sailed up the James River, on the "U. S. S. Yankton, " kindly lent to them for the occasion by Rear Ad- IN MEMORIAM. 27 miral Robley D. Evans, U. S. N. The " Memorial Gates " were presented to Jamestown and the Society for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities by my sister in the following brief address: " There are many men and many places of which we Americans can be justly proud. Most of these places are of local interest, but some of them are dear to the whole land, because we feel we all can claim a share in them. One of them is the island where we are gathered today, for just as Inde pendence Hall, in the Old State House of Pennsyl vania, has a deep interest for all Americans, so Jamestown Island, the birthplace of the Nation, has the double glory of belonging to the Old Do minion and to the United States, and we are truly glad that we are able to assemble here to mark our appreciation of all that has followed the first settle ment on these shores of Virginia. "The Colonial Dames of America empowered our Committees to plan and build Memorial Gates to commemorate the Birth of the American Nation, and we have endeavored to carry out the trust to the best of our abilities. "Surely no more appropriate motto could be chosen than our own Colere Coloniarum Gloriam which you will find interwoven in the iron fretwork surmounting the gates. Our Colonial Dame stands above extending a greeting. 1607-1907 are sig nificant and appropriate dates, and the stars show 28 ELISE WILLING BALCH. that we have not forgotten the States formed from the nine Colonies. "Our work has been greatly helped by the sub stantial aid given it, not only by our Dames nearby, but also by our Sisters of the Pacific Coast and by those who live across the seas; and by the deep interest taken in it by the whole Society. "We are glad that we are thus able to show to The Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, the Association that has done so much to preserve and beautify this historic spot, that its purpose is recognized and that we, The Colonial Dames of America, are proud to co-operate with it in this patriotic work. "We take pleasure in handing you the key to these Memorial Gates given to Jamestown and to The Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities by The Colonial Dames of America." My sister was not only Chairman of the James town Celebration Committee, but she was also Treasurer of the "Memorial Gates" Fund. A small balance from this, $56.58, remained over and by a resolution at the Board Meeting of April 14, 1908, this was deposited in the Philadelphia Savings Fund as a Memorial Fund. In the Minutes of the Board meeting of February 26, 1909, my sister tells of receiving a letter from Mrs. Sutcliffe, great-granddaughter of Robert Ful- IN MEMORIAM. 29 ton, asking if she would serve on a Committee of Colonial Dames to collect relics for the coming Hudson-Fulton celebration, an invitation she was obliged to decline, as the celebration was to take place in September. My sister also was the prime mover and active spirit in getting the Colonial Dames of America, Chapter II, to present the Commander-in-Chief s Door to the Washington Memorial Chapel at Valley Forge. On January 17, 1912, she broached to the Board Meeting the suggestion of Mrs. Edward King, that the Colonial Dames erect some memorial at the Valley Forge. At the Board Meeting of February 1, 1912, she told of her correspondence with Mrs. Cheesman and Mrs. Sutcliffe about the matter, and it was then decided to erect inde pendently the inner door of the Chapel and my sister was appointed Chairman of the Committee on erecting the door. She collected all the funds for it. At the Board Meeting of May 21, 1912, she announced that she had already received $350, and suggested that the Memorial Fund, remaining over from the Jamestown Memorial Gates Fund, then in the Philadelphia Saving Fund and amount ing to about $60, be added to this. This suggestion was agreed to and she then donated enough herself to increase the Fund to $450. Eventually she raised $600, the final $4 being contributed by herself in her last illness. 30 ELISE WILLING BALCH. The Commander-in-Chief s Door is made of heavy oak, deeply panelled. It opens out from the Church into the Cloister of the Colonies. It bears the arms of the thirteen original States whose soldiers formed the army commanded by General Washing ton in the struggle for Independence. The four teenth shield bears the seal of the Colonial Dames of America. The door was made by G. Gerald Evans and the wrought iron strap hinges by Samuel Yellin. On the door is the following inscription: "In Gratitude to God for His Guidance in the Election of George Washington Commander-in-Chief of the Continental Forces This Door is given by The Colonial Dames of America Chapter II, Philadelphia." The door was presented on May 21, 1913, my sister s presentation address being read, on account of her illness, by my brother Willing. The door was received and dedicated by the Right Reverend Thomas J. Garland, Bishop Suffragan of the Diocese of Pennsylvania. After the services, the Colonial Dames and many friends were entertained at an afternoon tea given by my mother. IN MEMORIAM. 31 My sister s presentation address was as follows: "The Bishop Suffragan of Pennsylvania, members of the Colonial Dames of America, Ladies and Gentlemen : "Pennsylvania has to her credit in the past notable achievements in peace, in war, in learning and in commerce. "At the western end of the State the great city of Pittsburgh now stands upon the site where Fort Du Quesne stood, which was captured in 1758 from the French by the expedition under General John Forbes, among whose officers were Colonel Henry Bouquet, Colonel Joseph Shippen and George Wash ington. The success of that expedition was one of the most important circumstances that insured the spread of the British colonies towards the west, and caused the English language to become the dominating tongue of North America. "Here at the eastern end of our Commonwealth, at Valley Forge, a still greater event occurred. For on this spot, chosen mainly by the military eye of Anthony Wayne, our fathers held watch during the bleak winter of 1777-1778, along the banks of the Schuylkill. But it was due to the fortitude, the courage and the inspired common sense of George Washington that the army of the Revolu tion held together, and that the War of Indepen dence was carried successfully through its darkest period. 32 ELISE WILLING BALCH. " Today on behalf of the Colonial Dames of America, Chapter II, Philadelphia, it is my privilege and pleasure, as Chairman of the Committee, to present to you this memorial door to the glory of God and the memory of the soldiers who, gathered from all the colonies here upon Pennsylvania ground, made our existence as a nation possible. And I herewith present to the Bishop Suffragan of Penn sylvania, the Rector and the Wardens of the Wash ington Memorial Chapel, this door to be dedicated in memory of the unanimous election on June 15, 1775, by the Second Continental Congress sitting in Philadelphia, of George Washington as Com- mander-in-Chief of the Army of the Colonies. " Immediately after my sister s decease, the follow ing resolutions were passed by the Board of the Philadelphia Chapter of the Colonial Dames of America : "At a special meeting of the Board of Managers of the Colonial Dames of America, Chapter II, called on June 30th, 1913, at the residence of the President, Mrs. McClellan, for the purpose of taking action on the death of the Secretary, "Miss Elise Willing Balch "The following resolutions were adopted: "Resolved, That the Board is overwhelmed with the suddenness and magnitude of the calamity that has befallen it in the loss of so true and loyal a IN MEMORIAM. 33 friend of the Society, so wise and able a counselor, and one so faithful and untiring in all that concerned the interests of the Chapter which she held most warmly at heart. "Resolved, That her cultivated mind, the wide range of her reading, and exact knowledge of the history of her country made her peculiarly fitted for the position as Chairman of the Claims Committee which she held, as well as the office of Secretary. "Resolved, That her death comes not only as a personal grief to the members of the Board, who worked with her and learned to value her clear insight and excellent judgment, but to the whole Chapter, to which her loss is irreparable. "Be it further resolved, That these Resolutions be spread upon the Minutes of the Society, and a copy of them be sent to the members of the family, expressing the deep sympathy of the Board in their great affliction. "S. E. GILPIN, A ssistant Secretary . The General Society of The Colonial Dames of America passed the following resolutions: "At a meeting of the Board of Managers of The Colonial Dames of America, held on November 14th at 18 East 8th Street, New York City, formal resolutions were passed on the death of "Miss Elise Willing Balch "Secretary of Chapter II. 34 ELISE WILLING BALCH. "It was resolved, that the whole Society of The Colonial Dames of America, had met with a most overwhelming loss, in the taking from our midst, one who was so faithful, loyal and beloved. The many years of her wise counsel, and active work, had endeared her to all who knew and worked with her. "Her judgment was always in demand, for it was good. To the members of Chapter II, the Parent Society extends the most sincere and heartfelt sympathy. It is asked that a copy of this be sent to the family of "MissBalch "that they may know, that all the members of The Colonial Dames of America mourn with them in their affliction. "CARA CROOKE MACDONALD, " Secretary of the Colonial Dames of America." The Paris Chapter of the Colonial Dames passed the following resolutions, received December, 1913: "Chapter IV of Paris desires to send through its Secretary, the most heartfelt expression of regret for the death of "Miss Elise Willing Balch "Secretary of the Chapter II of Philadelphia, and not only to her own Chapter, but to the whole Society of Colonial Dames, which loses in her one of its oldest and most devoted members. IN MEMORIAM. 35 "The Chapter IV would also wish to extend its sympathy to all the members of Miss Balch s family, for so irreparable a loss. " MARGARET T. JOHNSTON, "Secretary Chapter IV of Paris. " In the Report of Chapter II, Philadelphia, read at the Annual Meeting of the Colonial Dames of America, New York, April 30, 1914, the Secretary, Miss Gilpin, wrote: ******* "Last spring, the Commander-in-Chief s Door was given to the Washington Memorial Chapel at Valley Forge. This door was entirely due to the labor and efforts of the Secretary, Miss Elise Willing Balch, who alas, became ill and was unable to make the presentation. Not long after that the Chapter was overwhelmed by her loss. A wise and able counselor, her clear insight and excellent judgment, her cultivated mind and exact knowledge of the history of the country, and her untiring and faithful devotion to all that concerned the interest of the Society made her loss an irreparable one. ******* "S. ELIZABETH GILPIN, Secretary. " The Board of The Colonial Dames of America, Chapter II, Philadelphia, recognizing the impor- 36 ELISE WILLING BALCH. tance of the work done by my sister in Colonial history and for the Colonial Dames of America, decided, as stated in Miss Gilpin s Annual Report for 1916, that "it is eminently fitting that a memorial should be established to testify to the thorough appreciation of the Chapter of Miss Balch s untiring efforts through so many years to increase its usefulness. " To carry out this gracious thought, the Board of Managers, on the 14th April, 1916, adopted the following resolution: "That Chapter II, Philadelphia, award a medal in memory of Miss Elise Willing Balch, so long our able and efficient Secretary, for an essay on a Colonial subject written by any member of the Society, including the Juniors, to be given at the discretion of the Board. " Mrs. McCall and Mrs. Savage were appointed as the Committee to attend to this matter. On further consideration, it was decided to broaden the field of workers eligible for the medal, and this was done by resolution at a meeting of the Board of Managers, on the 2d of May, 1916. There upon Mrs. Thomas Balch informed the Board of Managers that she would present the medal to be made of gold to the Society and also endow it. The designing and executing of the medal were entrusted to Mr. Adam Pietz, one of the best medallists of Philadelphia, and during the summer of 1916 he carried out this commission most suc cessfully and produced a beautiful work of art. IN MEMORIAM. 37 On the 7th of December, 1916, the Board of Managers decided to extend still further the limits of eligibility of recipients of the medal and their final decision was expressed in the following reso lution: "That the Colonial Dames of America, Chapter II, Philadelphia, award a medal in memory of Miss Elise Willing Balch for literary or other work relating to Colonial Times. This medal to be given from time to time at the discretion of the Board, to any member of the Society, or to any outsider, whether a woman or a man, whose w T ork seems to the Board of sufficient importance to warrant the giving of the medal." On the 16th of November, 1916, the Board of Managers awarded the first gold medal to Mr. Charles Penrose Keith for his great work The Provincial Councillors of Pennsylvania, and it was formally presented to him at a meeting of the Chapter held on the 21st of December, 1916. ELISE WILLING BALCH IN MEMORIAM. 39 III. LITERATURE AND MUSIC. EDWARD SHIPPEN. PRINCE DE BROGLIE. THE FRENCH IN AMERICA. MELODY CLUB. MENDELS SOHN CLUB. CONCERTS. BOSTON SYMPHONY. GRAND OPERA. MUSICALES. CONCERT FOR MORRIS REFUGE. PHILADELPHIA OPERATIC SOCIETY. Miss Balch had a distinct gift of writing, and it is regrettable that she did not devote more time to it. She wrote easily most interesting letters, of which some will be found in a later chapter of this book. Under the title " Edward Shippen," she wrote a biography of Edward Shippen, the emigrant an cestor of the Shippen family in America, and the history and genealogy of his descendants. Edward Shippen was born at Methley, Yorkshire, England, in 1639. He emigrated to Boston in 1668, and came to Philadelphia about 1693. William Penn named him in the Charter, 25 October, 1701, as the first Mayor of the City of Philadelphia under the Charter, and from May, 1703, until December, 1703, he was the Acting-Governor of the Colony. Miss Balch s history, " Edward Shippen," was published in Charles P. Keith s The Provincial Councillors of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, 1883, pages 46-141. It is an exceedingly careful and 40 ELISE WILLING BALCH. conscientious historical-genealogical record which involved a great amount of labor and research and which may be depended on for its accuracy. Miss Balch translated from the original French unpublished manuscript diary the Narrative by the Prince de Broglie of a Visit to America, 1782, and this was published in The Magazine of American History, New York, 1877. My father wrote a " Pre liminary Note" to this Narrative, giving a bio graphical notice of the life of the Prince de Broglie. The accuracy of this notice was attacked in The Magazine of American History, New York, 1879, by a critic who asserted that de Broglie was not a Prince and that he did not die in 1804. My sister wrote about this to the Fourth Due de Broglie in 1885, and received from him the following letter, which was published in The Magazine of American History, New York, April 1886, page 407: "Les renseignements donnes par Monsieur votre Pere au sujet de ma famille sont absotument con- formes a la verite. "Le titre de Prince du Saint Empire Romain avait ete donne par Flmperatrice Marie Therese au Marechal de Broglie en 1759, pour etre porte par lui et par tons ses descendants males. C est en vertu de cette nomination que mon grandpere, Claude Victor de Broglie, portait ce titre, que je Fai porte moi-meme et que tous mes fils le prennent au- jourd hui. IN MEMORIAM. 41 "Le Marechal de Broglie est bien mort en 1804, tres-peu de jours apres le refus qu il avait fait de rent- rer en France, sur la proposition du premier Consul. "II n y a done aucune modification a faire aux faits affirmes par Monsieur votre Pere, et toute critique a cet egard est depourvue de fondement. " BROGLIE." My sister also translated, with my assistance, under the title of The French in America during the War of Independence of the United States, the second volume of my father s book Les Frangais en Amerique pendant la Guerre de V Independence des Etats-Unis 1777-1783. This was printed in French at Paris in 1872, but never published because after the proofs were received from the printer Mr. Balch obtained a large amount of additional information which he felt obliged to add to the finished manuscript. He inserted this in formation in the shape of manuscript notes on the French proof sheets and we made our translation from this revised copy. Miss Balch did the main share of the work, both in trans lating and in proofreading, going over the entire book nine times, and thanks to her tireless energy, it is the most accurate piece of printer s work I have ever had any part in doing: in fact I have never yet found a misspelling of any one of the thousands of names mentioned in the book. 42 ELISE WILLING BALCH. My sister was devoted to music. She was a good piano player and an excellent parlor singer. In Europe she was thoroly trained in playing and in singing and after her return home she kept up music lessons for many years. Her voice was a rather high mezzo soprano, and, altho not strong, it was full of quality and, thanks to her accurate ear and excellent training, she always sang true. Her knowledge of music was certainly far beyond that of most amateurs, and of her musical attain ments, Mrs. A. J. Dallas Dixon wrote to me as follows: "It was my pleasure to have played with her for some years in a piano quartet at Mrs. J. Edgar Thompson s house. We all enjoyed it so much and your sister s knowledge of the Wagner scenes was a great help to us all." She belonged at different times to various musical clubs, two of which were the Melody Club and the Mendelssohn Club, and she was also very fond of concerts and was for many years a subscriber to the Boston Symphony Orchestra. Miss Balch was greatly interested in the musical life of Philadelphia, and for many years was actively engaged in furthering its development, both in grand opera and in concerts. For the following notes about some of her work, I am largely in debted to Mrs. Edward W. Burt, who for many years was a co-worker with my sister in musical matters. IN MEMORIAM. 43 In March, 1896, Mr. Walter Damrosch gave German opera for one week at the Academy of Music. At this time Mr. Damrosch s business manager spoke to Miss Edith L. Hutchinson (now Mrs. Edward W. Burt) about the possibilities of a local opera season for 1896-1897. She advised him to discuss the matter with Miss Balch and Mrs. W. H. H. Robinson (now Mrs. Herman V. Hil- precht), as both these ladies were deeply interested in German opera. Mr. Damrosch immediately called on Miss Balch and went over the matter fully with her, and from one of her little diaries this apparently was on March 31st. Thereupon Miss Balch, Miss Hutchinson and Mrs. Robinson organized themselves into an in formal committee to seek subscriptions and they persuaded some of their friends to aid them in this work. They soon obtained promises of sufficient subscriptions to warrant calling a meeting be tween Mr. Damrosch and the persons most in terested in the project. The meeting took place at the Hotel Lafayette, and it was decided to give twenty performances of German, Italian and French opera. No guarantee was required beyond securing a subscription amounting, for boxes and seats, to forty thousand dollars. The prices of boxes and seats was decided upon, a general subscription was opened at once, and the allottment of boxes and seats was put in charge of Miss Hutchinson. The 44 ELISE WILLING BALCH. subscription was proceeded with successfully, and, under the leadership of Mr. Damrosch, in 1896- 1897, in the words of Mrs. Burt in a letter to me, " began the first of the regular seasons of Grand Opera in Philadelphia, which have continued un interruptedly ever since, and have become so im portant a factor in the musical life of this city," a statement which Mrs. Burt emphasizes further by saying that she wishes "to make it quite clear that this was really the start and foundation of the Opera Seasons in Philadelphia. " The season opened with "Lohengrin" and closed with "Tristan and Isolde." My mother was one of the original box holders. The great success of the first season of grand opera led to the immediate starting of another opera season for the next year. An organization meeting was held at the house of Mrs. Thomas Balch, 1412, Spruce Street, and it was decided that a guarantee fund would be necessary. A Committee of Guarantors and a Committee on Subscriptions were chosen, and of the latter Miss Balch was elected Chairman and Miss Hutchinson Secretary. The German performances of the first season had been most satisfactory, but the subscribers wished Mr. Damrosch to associate with himself some one who would give special attention to French and Italian operas. Mr. Damrosch found such an associate in Mr. C. A. Ellis, of Boston, Manager for Madame IN MEMORIAM. 45 Melba, and thus Melba became the leading prima donna in French and Italian opera for the season of 1897-1898. The season, which was most successful, opened with "Faust," and closed with "The Scarlet Letter." Mr. Walter Damrosch wrote me the following letter about my sister s helpfulness to him: "NEW YORK CITY, March 4, 1915. "My DEAR MR. BALCH: I have received your kind letter of Feb. 25th in regard to your sister. I am glad to know that you are writing a biography of her life. Her interest in music and in the develop ment of musical taste in Philadelphia was very great and she was always ready to give of her time, money and influence to further a high musical ideal. She was one of the most active of the little band to further my aims regarding German Opera, and a very large share of such success as it had was due to her work in connection with it. "Very sincerely yours, "WALTER DAMROSCH." In 1898-1899, a season of grand opera was given under the management of Mr. C. A. Ellis. Miss Balch was again Chairman of the Committee on Subscriptions and Miss Hutchinson Secretary. In 1899-1900, 1900-1901, 1901-1902 and 1902- 1903, four seasons of grand opera were given under 46 ELISE WILLING BALCH. the management of Mr. Maurice Grau; and for all of these Miss Balch was Chairman of the Com mittee on Subscriptions. She was thus Chairman of this Committee from 1897 to 1903, in which year she resigned from the Committee, and thereafter only always attended the Annual Meeting of the Boxholders which was held each spring. In the fall of 1897, Miss Balch, Miss Hutchinson and Mrs. Robinson organized a series of four morn ing Subscription Musicales. They were given at the Bellevue, on Mondays, 6th and 20th December, 1897, and 3d and 17th January, 1898, and were managed by Mr. C. L. Graff. They were most successful, many prominent artists, among them Mr. David Bispham and Mr. Selden Miller, taking part. A second series of morning Subscription Musicales was again arranged for by the same three ladies and, under the management of Mr. C. L. Graff, given at the Hotel Stratford on Mondays, 5th and 19th December, 1898, and 2d and 16th January, 1899. A third series of morning Subscription Musicales was given at the Art Club in 1899-1900 and was managed directly by Miss Balch, Miss Hutchinson and Mrs. Robinson. There was a fourth series of morning Subscription Musicales in 1900-1901, and this was also managed directly by the same ladies. In the winter of 1902, Miss Balch organized a concert for the benefit of the Morris Refuge Asso- IN MEMORIAM. 47 elation for Homeless and Suffering Animals. Al- tho the concert was under the auspices of the Board of Managers of the Refuge, yet it was wholly due to the initiative and the efforts of my sister. The concert was given at the Academy of Music on the 9th of April, 1902, and was most successful, seventeen hundred dollars being cleared. The per formers were Messrs. Hofmann, Kreisler and Ger- ardy. Miss Elizabeth Morris herself, the founder of the Refuge, through the insistence of Miss Balch, sat in one of the proscenium boxes. Of my sister s efforts for music in Philadelphia, Mrs. Burt writes to me in a letter: "I know that your sister was a great lover of music and was always most generous, both with time and money, and of great assistance to all good musical enterprises for many years, and she deserves to be remembered for all that she did for music. " My sister was much interested in the attempts made to develop local grand opera in Philadelphia. Mr. John Curtis, formerly president of the Phila delphia Operatic Society and now president of the Behrens Opera Club, informs me that my sister was a regular subscriber to the Philadelphia Operatic Society from its inception. She joined the Phila delphia Operatic Society as an Associate Member on 20th October, 1910, according to the records of Mr. William J. Parker, Secretary of the Society. She was most enthusiastic and attended all the 48 ELISE WILLING BALCH. performances she was able to. About her work, Mr. Curtis wrote me the following letter: " PHILADELPHIA, March 6, 1915. "DEAR MR. BALCH: "You ask me in your letter of recent date, to give you information concerning your late sister, Miss Elise Willing Balch s connection with the Philadelphia Operatic Society. To this I might reply that she was an associate member, in other words, one who gave the Society her support slightly more than a subscription for seats for all performances. "But to me her association with the Society meant much more than this. She was one of the first per sons in Philadelphia to recognize my intention in organizing the Society and to give it her encourage ment and support. This was not expressed merely in her subscriptions; it was expressed far more in her ever encouraging letters to me. When after months of study and a year of preparation I succeeded against innumerable obstacles in giving the first performance, her cheering letter was one of the first I received. Coming from one who was a stranger gave it greater value than did those from well wishing friends, and similar letters which I received from her from time to time were like a buckler to me, coming as they did, often at times when the task I had set for myself seemed hopeless. IN MEMORIAM. 49 "I organized the Society for the sole purpose of giving to our young singers an education in opera, that those who were ambitious to enter opera pro fessionally might receive the necessary training without the necessity of going to Europe for it. No favoritism was to be shown, but an equal oppor tunity afforded to all, and neither Mr. Behrens nor I, nor any of our singers received any com pensation for our work. It was, I believe, this altruism, together with the artistry of our per formances under the masterly direction of Mr. Behrens that appealed to Miss Balch and made her one of our most valued friends. "The last letter I received from her was written just before she departed for the country on what proved to be her last trip from her Spruce Street home. In it she expressed a desire that the Society produce Boieldieu s La Dame Blanche/ and I had already started inquiries as to scores, etc., with the intention of producing it the following season when I received news of her death. "Miss Balch I believe did more to encourage musical enterprise in Philadelphia in her gentle way than have many others whose names have ap peared more prominently in print. It was always evident that she was actuated by a gracious, kindly desire to help when convinced of sincerity of motive, and she was one of four persons who did more to aid me in my efforts than all others combined, and 50 ELISE WILLING BALCH. of these four not one now remains. Her loss will be felt in the future, as it has already been felt, by the world of music, and may I hope that you will not consider me presuming in saying that it has been most keenly felt by me. "Very sincerely yours, "JOHN CURTIS." IN MEMORIAM. 51 IV. TRAVELS. JOURNEYS TO EUROPE IN 1886, 1887, 1889, 1890, 1891, 1894, 1895, 1896, 1897, 1899, 1901, 1902; AND TO THE PACIFIC COAST IN 1900. My sister was very fond of traveling, and I wish to say most emphatically that she was the best traveler I ever knew. On her longer tours she took the minimum of baggage, a small trunk and a little handbag. She was always ready on time, she was always cheerful, she always made the best of things and was willing to put up with such hotel accommodations and such food as could be ob tained, and in some cases these were far from good. But she was always happy and cheery in rain or sunshine, in good quarters or in poor. She went thirteen times to Europe, and once to the Pacific coast. Of her first long stay in Europe she kept no detailed account. Of her second trip to Europe, there fortunately remain most of the letters she wrote to her mother from Norway, Sweden and Russia. On all her other long journeys, she jotted down day by day her itineraries in little pocket diaries, and I am republishing these diaries almost verbatim, because her travels played such a large part in her life. 52 ELISE WILLING BALCH. 1886. Sat., 15 May. Sailed with Ed. on Cunard R. M. S. Aurania at 3 P. M. Sat., 22 May. Sighted land, 6.30 P. M. Fastnet, 9.15 P. M. Sun., 23 May. Queenstown, 12.30 A. M. Liver pool, 4.30 P. M. Landed, 6.30. Mon., 24 May. Left Liverpool at 12 M. Ar rived Lichfield, 2.10 P. M. Visited the lovely Cathedral, and St. Chads Church and Well. Good meal at the Swan. Arrived London at 10.35 P. M. Tues., 25 May. To the Royal Academy, Dore, Hunt and Long Collections. Drove in Hyde Park. Dined Criterion. Wed., 26 May. To bankers. Did some shopping. Left for Paris at 8 P. M. Thurs., 27 May. Arrived Paris, 5.05 A. M. Fri., 28 May. To the Comedie Frangaise. "Cha- millac" par Octave Feuillet. Sat., 29 May. Drive in the Bois de Boulogne. To the Odeon "La Vie de Boheme" par Murger. Sun., 30 May. To the English Church. In the evening, Fete des Tuileries. Mon., 31 May. Paid some visits. Tues., 1 June. Left Paris at 8.40 P. M. Wed., 2 June. Arrived Bale, 6.30 A. M. Hotel des Trois Rois. Thurs., 3 June. Ascension Day service in Bale Cathedral at 3 P. M. IN MEMORIAM. 53 Fri., 4 June. Musee de Bale. Left, 2.05 P. M. Through Val Moutier: most beautiful. Arrived Thun, 9.30 P. M. Hotel BeUevue. Sun., 6 June. Thun. To church at 10.30. Played harmonium. To Schloss Schadau. Thurs., 10 June. Several days of rain. All we did was a little walking. Fri., 11 June. Left Thun, 3.30 P. M. Arrived Interlaken, 5.50 P. M. Hotel Belvedere. Sat., 12 June. Drove to Grindelwald and back. Visited the glaciers and had a capital dinner for a place so far away early in the season. Tues., 15 June. Walked to Boningen on Lake of Brienz. Wed., 16 June. Spent afternoon at Schloss Unspunnen. Glorious view of Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger. Thurs., 17 June. Walked about curious old village of Unterseen. Fri., 18 June. Left Interlaken, 1.15. By steamer across Lake of Brienz; then a lovely drive to Meiringen, where we arrived at 4.15 and walked round the village. Sat., 19 June. Hotel du Sauvage. Rain. Took a walk. Sun., 20 June. To church at 11 A. M. In the afternoon walked to Finsteraarschlucht with Major and Mrs. Hammond, very nice English people. Mon., 21 June. Rain. 54 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Tues., 22 June. Left Meiringen, 2 P. M. Im Hof. Im Boden. Arrived Guttannen, 5.30 P. M. Hotel de FOurs. Wed., 23 June. Left Guttannen on foot, 9.30 A. M. Arrived at the fine Handeck Falls at 11.30. Good dinner. Left 1.25. Arrived Grimsel Hospice at 3.30. Cold. Thurs., 24 June. Grimsel Hospice. Glorious day with a magnificent sunset. Fine views of Finsteraarhorn . Sat., 26 June. Left Grimsel Hospice at 6.15 A. M. Crossed Grimsel Pass with superb views of snow mountains, Schreckhorn, etc. Arrived at Rhone Glacier at 8.45. Stopped at Hotel Belvedere. Sun., 27 June. Hotel Belvedere: fine day. The view of the Rhone Glacier is magnificent. Walked across Furka Pass, 2300 meters high. Mon., 28 June. Belvedere. Walked along Furka Pass to see Glacier from below. Tues., 29 June. Left Belvedere at 9.15. Walked to Rhone Glacier Hotel, 11.30. Lunched there. Then drove to Brieg and train to Visp. Hotel des Alpes. Wed., 30 June. Visp is a quaint old town. Left at 2.15 P. M. Arrived Stalden, 4. Left, 4.15. Ar rived St. Niklaus, 6.45. Fine walk and day. Grand Hotel. Thurs., 1 July. St. Niklaus. Superb day: fine sunset. IN MEMORIAM. 55 Fri., 2 July. Left St. Niklaus, 2 P. M., in a carriage. Arrived Zermatt, 6.15. Pouring rain. Hotel Mont Cervin. Sat., 3 July. Saw Matterhorn, for the first time, at 4 A. M. The sunlight tipped it pink, and then came down it, changing to yellow. Sun., 4 July. Went to church at 10.30 A. M. and 4.30 P. M. Took walks before and after dinner. Mon., 5 July. Left Zermatt at 2.15 P. M. Arrived Riffel Alp, 4.45. Riffelhaus, 6.15. E. fainted on way. Glorious sunset. Tues., 6 July. Riffelhaus. Superb sunrise and sunset. Wed., 7 July. Riffelhaus. Started for Corner Grat, 3 A. M. Arrived, 5.15. Sunrise and view superb. In the afternoon, thunderstorms. Thurs., 8 July. Riffelhaus. Rainy. Fine cloud effects. Fri., 9 July. Riffelhaus. Rain. Sat., 10 July. Clearer weather. Walked to Rothes Kummen. Fine views. Sun., 11 July. Riffelhaus. Very cold. Mon., 12 July. Heavenly day; superb sunrise. Started 3.15 P. M. Arrived Zermatt, 5 P. M. Tues., 13 July. Zermatt. Started, 7.15 A. M. Arrived Staffelalp, 10.30. Visited Gorges du Gorner on way back. Wed., 14 July. Zermatt. E. went up Rympfish- horn. 56 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Thurs., 15 July. Zermatt. Went to see Mr. Loppe s pictures. Fri., 16 July. Left Zermatt at 7 A. M. Arrived St. Niklaus, 9. 45. Left, 10 A. M. Arrived Stalden, 12 M. Hotel Stalden. Sat., 17 July. Walked to bridge of Stalden. Left Stalden, 2. P. M. Left Visp, 4.20. Arrived Veytaux- Chillon, 8.34 P. M. Sun., 18 July. Chillon. Hotel Bonivard. Went to church. Visited Chateau Chillon. Tues, 20 July. Chillon. Row on lake in evening. Thurs., 22 July. Chillon. Went up to Glion by Funiculaire. Fri., 23 July. Left Chillon, 8.33 A.M. Arrived Fri- bourg, 12.15. Heard organ play at 1.30 and 8 o clock. Visited Musee Marcello. Walked through town. Sat., 24 July. Walked around town of Fribourg. Left, 3.45 P. M. Arrived Berne, 4.45. Left Berne, 6P.M. Sun., 25 July. Arrived Reims, 6.15 A. M. Hotel du Lion d Or. Visited the beautiful Cathedral. Also Eglise St. Remi. Left, 1.35 P. M. Arrived Amiens, 7.15 P. M. Hotel du Rhin. Mon., 26 July. Amiens. Cathedral beautiful, outside and inside: glorious wood carving. Took a walk and visited the Musee. Left at 10 P. M. Tues., 27 July. Arrived Canterbury, 8.45 A. M. Royal Fountain Hotel. Cathedral beautiful. Also visited St. Martin, Mother Church of England. IN MEMORIAM. 57 Wed., 28 July. Left Canterbury, 9 A. M. Ar rived London, 11 A. M. Bailey s Hotel, Kensington. Did some shopping. Thurs., 29 July. London. To Colindries [Col onial and Indian Exhibition]. Fri., 30 July. Left London, 9 A. M. Arrived Birkenhead, 3 P. M. Went to a tennis party at Mrs. Dule s. Spent night at the Spences. Sat., 31 July. Left Liverpool, 3 P. M., in tender. Sailed, 7 P. M. Fine day. Sun., 1 Aug. Arrived Queenstown, 10 A. M. Sailed, 2 P. M. Rainy. Sat., 7 Aug. Anchored off Sandy Hook at 8.15 P.M. Sun., 8 Aug. Quarantine, 3 A. M. New York, 8 A. M. Left, 9 A. M. Home, 11.30 A. M. 1887. Sat., 25 June. Sailed with W. from New York on Cunard R. M. S. Etruria, 8 A. M. Tues., 28 June. 440 miles. Am reading Godet s " Studies in the Old Testament and New Testa ment"; Juke s "Law of Offerings" and " Types in Genesis"; and Milligen s " Apocalypse." Fri., 1 July. 450 miles. Arrived Queenstown, 11 P. M. Sat., 2 July. Arrived Liverpool, 3 P. M. Left in special on Midland, 6.30 P. M. Arrived St. Albans, 12 midnight. 58 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sun., 3 July. St. Albans. Pea Hen Inn. Visited the Abbey. Went to service there at 11 A. M. and 3 P. M. Also drove to Gorhambury, the Earl of Verulam s place; very fine. Mon., 4 July. To London by 10 A. M. train. Saw Oxford and Cambridge Cricket Match at Lord s. Visited Westminster Abbey and drove in Hyde Park. Saw the King of Denmark. Left at 8.05 P. M. Tues., 5 July. Arrived Cologne, 11.35 A. M. Hotel du Nord. Visited the Cathedral and saw the bridge. Left at 8.35 P. M. Wed., 6 July. Arrived Dresden, 11.20 A. M. Hotel Bellevue. Went to bankers. Then to see Dr. Emil Peschel, at the Kornermuseum, No. 4, Kor- nerstrasse. Thurs., 7 July. W. had his first lesson in German with Dr. Peschel, whom he likes very much. Fri., 19 Aug. Dresden. Have been nearly six weeks in Dresden. W. has studied German every day with Dr. Peschel. We have been a num ber of times to the theatre and opera and seen among other pieces, "Ein Grasstadter," "Der Myvogel," "Der Zugvogel," "Ehegliick," "Der Freischiitz," " Patience/ 7 "Mikado," "Goldfische," "Les Huguenots," "Die Zauberflote," "Lohen grin," "Die Judin." Visited the picture gallery repeatedly. Also went to the Grimes Gewolbe; to Moritzburg, where we saw the deer and boar fed; IN MEMORIAM. 59 to Meissen, where we saw the porcelain manu factory; to Konigstein; to Bautzen, where we saw the Castle and drove to Kleine Melka to see the Moravians. Also to other places in the neighbor hood. On 30 and 31 July, W. went on a walk in Saxon Switzerland with Dr. Peschel. Sat., 20 Aug. Left for Prag, 4.20 P. M. Arrived, 10.30. Hotel Victoria very good. Saw Saxon Switzerland and Schloss Schrenstein en route. Sun., 21 Aug. Prag. Visited Teyn Kirche, Jiidenstadt, Hadreschin, Monastery of Emaus, Waldstein Palace. Left, 3.16 P. M. Arrived Dresden, 6.57 P. M. Wed., 24 Aug. Dresden. Have visited the Rietschel Museum, and been to the theatre to see "Die Rauber," "Die Konigin von Saba" and "DieFrauohneGeist." Thurs., 25 Aug. Left Dresden, 2.25 P. M. Arrived Weimar, 8.55 P. M. Hotel zum Russischen Hof, very good. FrL, 26 Aug. Weimar. Visited Schiller Haus, Goethe Haus. Palace of Anna Amelia (widows Palace). Bibliothek. Graves of Schiller and Goethe. Left, 5.14 P. M. Arrived Eisenach, 7.40 P. M. Sat., 27 Aug. Eisenach, Halben Mond. Went to Wartburg, Annathal, Drachenschlucht, Wil- helmsthal, Hohe Sonne, Drachenstein, Marien- blick. 60 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sun., 28 Aug. Left Eisenach, 11.30. Arrived Frankfort, 4. Drove past Goethe Haus and Guten berg Statue. Arrived Wiesbaden evening. Mon., 29 Aug. Wiesbaden. Nassauerhof. Drove about Wiesbaden, then to Platte, Neroberg, and Griechische Kapelle. Tues., 30 Aug. Left Wiesbaden, 8.20 A. M. Drove to Biebrich. Left, 9.20. Arrived Coblentz, 1.30. Drove to Ehrenbreitstein. Left, 5.30. Ar rived Koln, 10.30 P. M. Wed., 31 Aug. Cologne. Hotel du Nord. Left, 1.13 P. M. on sleeping car. Thurs., 1 Sept. Arrived Calais, 1.14 A. M. Rough crossing. Arrived London, 6.20 A. M. Hotel Metropole. Shopped. Left, 3.30 P. M. from Paddington. Arrived Stratford on Avon, 7.14 P. M. FrL, 2 Sept. Stratford. Red Horse Inn. Saw Shakespeare s house. Left, 11 A. M. Arrived Liverpool via Birkenhead, 5.30 P. M. Sat., 3 Sept. Sailed at 10 A. M. on Etruria. Fine day. Sun., 4 Sept. Queenstown. Landed and took a walk with W. Wed., 7 Sept. 426 miles. Rainy. Am reading "L homme de Neige." Sun., 11 Sept. Landed New York, 3. P. M. Arrived home, 6.30. IN MEMORIAM. 61 1889. Sat., 22 June. Sailed for Europe with Willing at 1.30 P. M. on Cunard R. M. S. Etruria. Sun., June 30. Arrived Liverpool, 10.30 A. M. By special to London, Euston 6 P. M. To Gros- venor Hotel, where we found Ed. Tues., 3 July. Dined at Hotel Victoria with Mr. Leeds, Mr. & Mrs. Scull, Mr. Mather, M. P. and Mr. Gilead Smith. Thurs., 4 July. To House of Commons. Four o clock tea. Messrs. Gladstone, Labouchere, Brad- laugh and Smith spoke. Fri., 5 July. Four o clock tea at National Club. At 10.30 to Lady Goldsmid s Musicale: good music: people funny. Sat., 6 July. Lizzie Balch dined with us. Sun., 7 July. To luncheon with Archdeacon Farrar. Mon., 8 July. To Oxford. Lunched with Vernon Har courts. Went round Oxford. Tues., 9 July. Went to some of the colleges with Mr. Vernon Harcourt, who lunched with us. Went to see some tennis in afternoon. Wed., 10 July. To Christ Ch. Cathedral in morning. Called on Harcourts. Rain. Thurs., 11 July. Left Oxford, 11 o clock. Ar rived Leamington, 12.10. Drove to Kenilworth and Warwick. Left Leamington, 6.25 P. M. Arrived Lichfield, 8.30. 62 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Fri., 12 July. Lichfield. Afternoon service at Cathedral at 4 P. M. Sat., 13 July. To Liverpool. Sailed on Cunard S. S. Aurania at 7.30 P. M. Mon., 22 July. Arrived Sandy Hook, 7.15 A. M. New York, 10 o clock. To Philadelphia. 1890. Sat., 5 July. Sailed for Europe on Cunard R. M. S. Umbria. Sat., 12 July. Arrived Liverpool, 8 P. M. Sun., 13 July. Liverpool. Drive through Princes and Sefton Parks, Mosely, Wilton and Childwell. Childwell Abbey now a hotel. Mon., 14 July. Liverpool to Sheffield. Walked through town. Tues., 15 July. Sheffield. To a cricket match. After lunch to St. Peter s Church and Weston Park Museum. Wed., 16 July. Sheffield to London. Drove about and visited Stanley and African exhibition. Thurs., 17 July. London to Canterbury. Went to St. Martin s Church. Fri., 18 July. Canterbury to Paris. Good crossing, one hour ten minutes. Sat., 19 July. Paris. Shopped. Took walk in evening and saw statues of Gambetta and Strasburg covered with flowers. Sun., 20 July. Paris. To Oratoire: service over. IN MEMORIAM. 63 To Ste. Marie, where heard Mr. Monod: good ser mon. To the Invalides and drive in Bois. Mon., 21 July. Paris to Dijon. Pleasant trip. Took a walk, saw statue of F. Rude, Porte Guyot, and two old churches. Tues., 22 July. Saw tombs of Dukes of Burgundy and Puits de Moise. In afternoon to Geneva. Wed., 23 July. Geneva. Walked about. To Cathedral, Chapelle des Maccabees, Monuments, Panorama du Mont Blanc. Thurs., 24 July. Geneva to Cluses. Lunched. Drove to Chamonix: fine day, superb views. Fri., 25 July. Chamonix. Walked up Flegere: glorious view. Blistered my heel. Sat., 26 July. W. went up Montanvert, across Mer de Glace, and over Mauvais Pas to Chapeau. I staid quiet. Sun., 27 July. Chamonix. Superb day. Went to church, good sermon. In evening lovely Alpengluhn on Mont Blanc and moonrise over Mont Maudit. Mon., 28 July. Heavenly day. W. went up Brevent. I staid quiet. Tues., 29 July. Left Chamonix, 8 o clock. On Chatelard, 11. Left, 1.10; arrived Vernayaz, 5. Beautiful and wild drive. Wed., 30 July. Vernayaz via Stalden to St. Nicolas. Thurs., 31 July. St. Nicolas to Zermatt. W. went up to Eiffel. Fine views. 64 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Fri., 1 Aug. W. returned from Riff el. Went to see Relief of Zermatt and Mr. Loppe s pictures. Sat., 2 Aug. W. went with C. Judson to Staff el Alp and Schwarzsee. Rain and thunder during night. Sun., 3 Aug. To church. Mon., 4 Aug. Poured and snowed. W. went up to Riffelalp. Tues., 5 Aug. Rain in morning. At 2 left Zermatt and went to Riffelalp. Wed., 6 Aug. to Thurs., 14 Aug. Stayed at Riffelalp. Walked much in the woods, towards Findelen Glacier, once to Schwarzsee. On 12 Aug. W. went up Mettelhorn. Fri., 15 Aug. Left Riffelalp, 8 A. M., walked to Zermatt, drove to St. Nicolas, walked to Stalden, train to Visp and Brieg. Sat., 16 Aug. Drove to Simplon: very fine drive. Sun., 17 Aug. Walked through Gorge de Gondo: then drove back to Brieg. Mon., 18 Aug. Left Brieg, 7.30. Drove to Morel, thence walked to Riederalp, 1 P. M. Superb views. Tues., 19 Aug. Riederalp. W. came over from Belalp and went up Eggishorn. Wed., 20 Aug. To Eggishorn: fine view of Weisshorn, etc. Thurs., 21 Aug. Eggishorn wrapped in clouds. Fri., 22 Aug. To Marjelen See and back: walked on glacier: fine view of Oberaarhorn, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc. IN MEMORIAM. 65 Sat., 23 Aug. Walked from Eggishorn to Viesch, then drove to Furka: fine in morning, rain in afternoon. Sun., 24 Aug. Drove from Hotel Furka to Goschenen: rain. Mon., 25 Aug. From Goschenen to Lucerne: rain. Tues., 26 Aug. Left on 9.10 boat for Fluelen, fine trip up lake. Then across St. Gothard to Andermatt: splendid views. Wed., 27 Aug. Andermatt via Dissentis to Ilanz. Thurs., 28 Aug. Ilanz to Chur. Fine drive, especially in Rabiusa ravine. Fri., 29 Aug. Drove to Thusis. Rain. Sat., 30 Aug. Thusis. Clear. Walked part way up Via Mala: roads broken everywhere. Sun., 31 Aug. Drove back to Coire. Road badly broken. Mon., 1 Sept. Coire to Zurich. Thurs., 4 Sept. Left Zurich, 8. Crossed Lac de Constance, very pretty. Arrived Munich, 5.20. Fri., 5 Sept. Munich to Oberammergau. Rooms at Frau Klammer. Sat., 6 Sept. Oberammergau. Lovely day. Walked about village and to Kreuzigung Monument. Sun., 7 Sept. Oberammergau. Passion play. Very fine, especially Pilate and Nathaniel. Joseph Mayer very good and simple. Mon., 8 Sept. Oberammergau to Munich. Heard Meistersinger in evening : fine . 66 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Tues., 9 Sept. Munich. Visited Palace, Old Pinacothek, Bavaria. Brewery in evening, and to theater, to a Volkstuck, with Schuhplatter- tanz. Wed., 10 Sept. Munich to Botzen, 7.30. Lovely day, fine views. Thurs., 11 Sept. Left Botzen 12.28. Missed our train at Verona and arrived Venice, 9.20. Fri., 12 Sept. Venice. Visited Doge s Palace, St. Mark s, S. Giorgio Maggiore, Sta. Maria della Salute, and Dei Frati Jesuit Church, lace and glass works. Sat., 13 Sept. Spent afternoon at Lido. Sun., 14 Sept. Venice. Academy of the Fine Arts, Titian s two portraits, Tintoretto, drawings of Raphael, Leonardo. Regatta at Murano. Mon., 15 Sept. Visited Academia again, also Arsenal. Left Venice, 4 P. M. Arrived Milan, 9.35. Tues., 16 Sept. Milan. Visited Duomo, Galleria Vitorio Emmanuele, pictures at the Brera, Leon ardo s fresco at Sta. Maria delle Grazie and Arch of the Simplon. Wed., 17 Sept. Milan to Baveno. Islands very pretty. Thurs., 18 Sept. Baveno. Took a sail on lake to Laveno. Weather in mountains bad. Sat., 20 Sept. Baveno via Laveno and Como to Bellagio. Lovely sail. Walked through Villa Ser- belloni. IN MEMORIAM. 67 Sun., 21 Sept. Rowed over to Villa Carlotta, superb garden. Left Bellagio, 2.10. Arrived Lu gano, via Porlezza, 4.30. Mon., 22 Sept. Lugano, Hotel du Pare, old Monastery. Walked round town. Tues., 23 Sept. Lugano to Bale, pleasant journey. Wed., 24 Sept. Bale. Visited Cathedral and cloisters, Mittelalter Museum, superb glass; walked round town. Thurs., 25 Sept. Bale to Strasburg. Drove to see clock at 12. Hotel Ville de Paris. To Cathedral, drove through Citadel and to St. Thomas church, monument to Maurice de Saxe. In evening heard " Figaro s Hochzeit." Fri., 26 Sept. Strassburg to Metz. Drove round town, to Cathedral, past Bazaine s house and La Porte des Allemands. Sat., 27 Sept. Metz to Brussels. Pleasant journey. Sun., 28 Sept. Bruxelles. To church in morn ing. Drive through Bois de la Cambre in after noon. Mon., 29 Sept. Bruxelles. To Ste. Gudule, Hotel de Ville, Maison d Or, Statue of Comtes Egmont and Horn. Tues., 30 Sept. Bruxelles. W. went to Waterloo. In evening to opera, "Les Dragons de Villars." Wed., 1 Oct. Bruxelles. To Musee. W. went to Louvain. 68 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Thurs., 2 Oct. Bruxelles to Antwerp, 10.41 to 12. Visited Cathedral, Grande Place, Musee Plantin- Moretus. To Amsterdam, 3.26-7.32. Fri., 3 Oct. Amsterdam. Musee Six and Rijks Museum. Superb Rembrandts. To Roster s dia mond cutting factory. To Zaandam, saw Peter s house and pictures. Sat., 4 Oct. Amsterdam to Bruxelles. W. to Utrecht and The Hague. Mon., 6 Oct. Left Brussels at 8.25. Detained near Lille by engine running off the track. Ar rived London, 6 P. M. Wed., 8 Oct. W. to National Gallery. In after noon to Rowsley. Thurs., 9 Oct. Rowsley. Drove to Chatsworth, Bakewell church very interesting, lunch at Rut land Arms, then to Haddon Hall. Fri., 10 Oct. Rowsley to Liverpool. Sat., 11 Oct. Sailed on Cunard R. M. S. Umbria. Sun., 19 Oct. Arrived New York, 8 A. M. To Philadelphia. 1891. Sat., 30 May. Sailed on Cunard R. M. S. Umbria. Sat., 6 June. Arrived Liverpool, 8.45 P. M. Came up from bar on " Skirmisher. " Sun., 7 June. Liverpool. To Cathedral. Mon., 8 June. Liverpool to London. Drove in Hyde Park. Wed., 10 June. London to Calais. IN MEMORIAM. 69 Thurs., 11 June. Calais to Brussels. Thurs., 18 June. Have spent this week in Brus sels. Left this morning, stopped over at Luxem bourg, arrived Treves, 2.20 P. M., took a drive. Fri., 19 June. Left Treves, 2.35; stopped at Cochem, arrived Coblentz, 6.10 P. M. Sat., 20 June. Coblentz to Frankfurt. "La Juive" in evening. Tues., 23 June. Frankfurt to Bale. Wed., 24 June. Bale to Lucerne. Thurs., 25 June. Trip on Lake of Lucerne, bad storm. Sat., 27 June. Lucerne to Interlaken. Sun., 28 June. Drove to Schloss Unspunnen. Mon.,29June. Drove to St. Beatenberg; glorious view. Fri., 3 July. Interlaken to Thun; fine sail on lake. Mon., 6 July. Thun to Bern; drove round town; then to Lausanne. Wed., 8 July. Lausanne to Ouchy. Thurs., 9 July. Ouchy to Veytaux Chillon. Fri., 10 July. Veytaux to Visp, St. Niklaus, and Zermatt: glorious drive, Matter horn superb. Mon., 13 July. Zermatt to St. Nicolas by car riage, rail to Visp, then drove to Brieg. Thurs., 14 July. Brieg. Drove up Simplon and back. Wed., 15 July. Brieg to Veytaux Chillon. Sat., 18 July. Veytaux to Neuchatel. 70 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sun., 19 July. Neuchatel to Neuhausen, Falls of Rhine. Tues., 21 July. Neuhausen to Konstanz. Then a lovely sail across lake to Friedrichshafen. Wed., 22 July. Friedrichshafen to Ulm. Heard concert at Minister. Thurs., 23 July. Ulm to Augsburg. Drove round town, old houses, fine Rathhaus, with Goldene Saal. Fri., 24 July. Augsburg to Munich. Sat., 25 July. Munich. Drove about; New Pinacothek, theater in evening. Sun., 26 July. Munich. Old Pinacothek, Volks- garten, Nymphenburg Palace. Mon., 27 July. Munich to Linz, by Orient Express , 12.15-4.50. Hotel Erzherzog Carl on the Danube. Tues., 28 July. Linz to Vienna, 7.30 A. M.- 4.30 P. M. Smaller boat up canal from Niissdorf. Volksgarten concert. Wed., 29 July. Vienna. Saw Armory. Drove around. Thurs., 30 July. My birthday. Walked about. Drove in Prater in evening. Fri., 31 July. Drove to Schonbrunn, splendid gardens, one hour s walk through them. To St. Stephen s Cathedral. Sat., 1 Aug. Vienna to Buda-Pest. Sun., 2 Aug. Buda-Pest. Drove round town and to Schloss and Waldschlosschen. IN MEMORIAM. 71 Tues., 4 Aug. Buda Pest to Vienna. Wed., 5 Aug. Vienna to Brunn. Thurs., 6 Aug. Brunn to Dresden, pleasant journey. FrL, 7 Aug. Drove around. Dr. Peschel came to dinner and to theater afterwards. Sat., 8 Aug. Bought china; to opera. Sun., 9 Aug. Picture gallery and Briihl Terrasse. Church. Mon., 10 Aug. Dresden to Berlin. Drove to Charlottenburg. Tues., 11 Aug. To Potsdam. Princess F. Leopold in train. Wed., 12 Aug. King Wilhelm s Palace and Schloss. Also to International Exhibition of pic tures. Thurs., 13 Aug. Berlin to Hof. Weisses Lamm, good little hotel. Fri., 14 Aug. Hof to Bayreuth. Sat., 15 Aug. Bayreuth. Drove to Eremitage, Wahnfried and Wagner s grave. " Tristan," very fine. Sun., 16 Aug. "Parsifal," most solemn and im pressive. Mon., 17 Aug. Went all through Theater. Tues., 18 Aug. "Tannhauser," splendid. Wed., 19 Aug. "Parsifal." Fri., 21 Aug. Bayreuth to Eisenach. Sat., 22 Aug. Lovely visit to Wartburg. The Herr Oberst showed us his rooms. 72 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sun., 23 Aug. Eisenach to Frankfurt. Mon., 24 Aug. Left Frankfurt, 5.10 P. M. Tues., 25 Aug. Arrived Paris, 8.45 A. M. Sun., 6 Sept. Paris to Canterbury. Mon., 7 Sept. Canterbury. Service 10 A. M. Visited Cathedral, St. Martin s and St. Augustine s Gateway. Tues., 8 Sept. Canterbury to London. Thurs. 10 Sept. London. To Hampton Court. Sun., 13 Sept. London. Drive through Kensing ton, Mortlake, to Richmond, Kingston, Putney. Mon., 14 Sept. Mr. A. J. Butler to dinner. Thurs., 17 Sept. London to Liverpool. Sat., 19 Sept. Sailed on Cunarder Etruria, 10 A.M. Sat., 26 Sept. Landed at New York, 6.30 P. M. 1894. Sat., 19 May. Sailed on Cunard R. M. S. Cam pania 5.30 A. M. Sat., 26 May. Arrived Liverpool, 4 P. M. Mon., 28 May. Liverpool to London, 11.05-3.30. Tues., 29 May. "Falstaff " at Covent Garden. Thurs., 31 May. Royal Institute. Sat., 2 June. London to Dover. Mon., 4 June. Dover to Calais and Brussels. Wed., 6 June. Brussels to Bruges. Thurs., 7 June. Bruges. Memling pictures, Notre Dame, Musee of lace. Cheminee de Charles V. (du Franc) etc. IN MEMORIAM. 73 Fri., 8 June. Bruges to Ghent. Van Eyck pictures, B6guinage. Sat., 9 June. Ghent to Brussels. Sun., 10 June. Brussels, Hotel de Ville, Ste. Gudule, etc. Mon., 11 June. To Antwerp and back. To Exposition. Thurs., 14 June. Brussels to Cologne. Cathedral splendid. Fri., 15 June. Cologne to Homburg to take waters. Sat., 23 June. To Wiesbaden and back. Saw Miss Varena. Fri., 13 July. Homburg to Nuremberg. Sat., 14 July. Nuremberg. Visited St. Sebald s Church, Schone Brunnen, Bratwurstglocklein, Burg, Gansemannlein, etc. Sun., 15 July. Visited St. Lorenz Kirche. Drove round walls. In evening to Munich. Tues., 17 July. Munich to Garmisch. Rooms at Herr Bysschl, same that Ludwig of Bavaria had. Thurs., 19 July. Garmisch. Walked through Wittelbacher Park. Schuhplattler and Tyrolese concert in evening. Fri., 20 July. Drove to Partenkirchen. W. started there for Zugspitze. Sat., 21 July. Drove to Eibsee and Badersee. W. had a fine climb and glorious view. 74 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sun., 22 July. Left Garmisch, 8 A. M. Drove via Griesen, Plansee and Reutee to Fussen (Hohen- schwangau) arrived, 4 P. M. Mon., 23 July. Visited Neu Schwanstein and Schloss Hohenschwangau, also Alp See. Tues., 24 July. Left Hohenschwangau, 8 A. M. drove across Fern Pass, arrived Imst, 9 P. M. Wed., 25 July. Imst to Zurich. Fri., 27 July. Zurich to Berne. Sat., 28 July. Drove round Berne. E. and W. started for Zermatt. Sun., 29 July. Berne. Superb view of Oberland at sunrise. In evening to Bale. Mon., 30 July. Bale to Strassburg. Drove round town, to Cathedral, etc. Tues., 31 July. Strassburg to Metz. Drove round Metz, past Bazaine s house, to Cathedral, Place d Armes, etc. Wed., 1 Aug. Drove to part of battlefield of 14 August. Also saw Gravelotte and forts in the dis tance. In afternoon to Brussels. Sat., 4 Aug. Brussels to Paris. Fri., 10 Aug. Paris. Have shopped and been to operas "Salammbo" and " Lohengrin." Sat., 11 Aug. Paris to Reims. Saw Cathedral and Tresor. Sun., 12 Aug. Reims to Coucy. Visited the very fine Chateau, also saw room of Gabrielle d Estrees. In evening to Compiegne. IN MEMORIAM. 75 Mon., 13 Aug. Visited Palais de Compiegne. Drove through forest to the very fine Chateau of Pierrefonds. Tues., 14 May. To Paris. Tues., 21 Aug. Paris to Fontainebleau and back. Visited Palace. Drove through forest and Gorges de Fanchard. Sun., 26 Aug. Paris to Beauvais. Drove to the glorious Cathedral, to St. Etienne and round the town. Mon., 27 Aug. Beauvais to Amiens. To Cathe dral, splendid carved stalls. Wed., 29 Aug. Amiens to Dover. Thurs., 30 Aug. Dover to Cambridge. Fri., 31 Aug. Cambridge. To King s Chapel, Trinity College, College Hall and Chapel, St. Johns, Combination room, etc. Sat., 1 Sept. Cambridge to Ely. To Cathedral, triforium very fine; drive round town. Mon., 3 Sept. To Lincoln. Visited Cathedral, Angel choir fine; then to York. Tues., 4 Sept. York. Drove round walls. Vis ited Minster, Chapter House, St. Mary s Abbey. Wed., 5 Sept. York to Ripon and back. Drove to Cathedral and Lodge of Studley Royal. Rained, so did not go to Fountains Abbey. Thurs., 6 Sept. York to Durham and back. Saw Castle and Cathedral. Galilee porch or chapel superb. 76 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Fri., 7 Sept. York to Liverpool. Sat., 8 Sept. Sailed on Cunarder Campania. Fri., 14 Sept. Arrived New York. 1895. Sat., 1 June. Sailed for Europe on Cunard R. M. S. Campania. Sat., 8 June. Landed Liverpool. To St. Albans. Sun., 9 June. St. Albans. To Abbey Church, restored by Lord Grinthorpe. Drove to Gorham- bury, seat of Earl of Verulam, where Lord Bacon lived. Mon., 10 June. St. Albans to London. In after noon to Dover. Tues., 11 June. Dover to Calais, then to Brussels. Wed., 12 June. Brussels to Cologne. Bells of Cathedral were ringing when we arrived. Thurs., 13 June. Cologne to Wiesbaden. Sun., 16 June. Saw Miss Varena several times. Once to opera, etc. Mon., 17 June. Wiesbaden to Homburg to take the waters. Hotel Freyberg, Schwedenpfad. Tues., 2 July. Homburg to Berlin. Wed., 3 July. Drove around Berlin. Fri., 5 July. Left Berlin, 9.02 A. M. Passed Marienburg, very fine castle of Teutonic Knights. Fine bridge across Vistula. Arrived Wirballen, 10.30 P. M. Sat., 6 July. Wirballen to St. Petersburg, 1 A.M.- 6.40 P. M. Fine day; many interesting sights. IN MEMORIAM. 77 Sun., 7 July. To St. Isaac s to service, fine sing ing. Went to Peterhof via Cronstadt, Oranien- baum. Mon., 8 July. Drove round Petersburg. Went to Church of St. Peter, and Paul and to Peter the Great s cottage. Tues., 9 July. Went to Hermitage, Peter the Great s gallery. Also to St. Isaac s and Kasan Cathedral. Wed., 10 July. Went to Winter Palace: most beautiful and interesting. Saw 240 bread and salt plates and 180 ikons sent to Nicolas II and his wife. Thurs., 11 July. To Tzarskoe Selo and back: fine palace. At 9 P. M., left for Moscow. Fri., 12 July. Arrived Moscow, 10 A. M. Hotel Slaviansky Bazar. Drove through Kremlin to Sparrow Hills: very fine view. Sat., 13 July. Visited Kremlin, Cathedral of Assumption, St. Michael, Annunciation, Palace of Patriarchs, St. Saviour, Romanoff House. Sun., 14 July. Went to service at Church of the Saviour, afterwards to St. Basil. Drove in after noon. E. and W. off to Nijni. Mon., 15 July. Went to Palace at Kremlin, very fine, especially the Terem. Drove to Petrovsky Park. Tues., 16 July. E. and W. returned from Nijni after good visit. Visited Tretiakoff gallery: fine Russian pictures. 78 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Wed., 17 July. Drove about to say farewell to Moscow. Left Moscow, 6.30 P. M. Cool evening. Thurs., 18 July. Traveled all day: dirty cars. Arrived Warsaw, 10.35 P. M. Fri., 19 July. Drove about Warsaw. Saw 500 meter bridge across Vistula. Church of St. Stanislas where Polish kings were crowned. Belvedere and Palace. Sat., 20 July. Warsaw to Thorn. 4.05 P. M.- 10 P. M. Met pleasant Polish engineer in train. Sun., 21 July. Drove about Thorn. Saw house where Copernicus was born; his statue; the Rathhaus; Schiefe Thurm; Marien Kirche; Heilige Geist Kirche. In evening to a local historical play "Das Blutgericht von Thorn." Mon., 22 July. Thorn to Breslau via Posen which looks interesting. Saw lots of windmills and several chateaux. Tues., 23 July. Breslau. Went to see the fine Rathhaus, old churches, etc. Wed., 24 July. Breslau to Dresden. Thurs., 1 Aug. Dresden. Have had some very hot weather here. Dr. Peschel came to see us several times. To picture gallery, Vogelwiese, Grosser Garten, Grunes Gewolbe and several times to the opera. Fri., 2 Aug. Dresden to Plauen. Sat., 3 Aug. Plauen to Niirnberg. IN MEMORIAM. 79 Sun., 4 Aug. Walked about Nurnberg. Schone Brunnen, Markt, Bratwurstglocklein, Burg, Hans Sachs and Albrecht Diirer s houses. Mon., 5 Aug. Drove to St. Johannis Friedhof. Graves of Albrecht Diirer, Hans Sachs, Martin Behaim, Pirkheimer, Adam Kraft. Tues., 6 Aug. Nurnberg to Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Hotel Hirsch. Visited Jacobs Kirche; Burgthor, very fine; Klingenthor; Koboldzellerthor; fine views of walls. Wed., 7 Aug. Visited Spitalhof, Spitalthor, walked round Anlagen, through Weissesthurm to Wurtem- bergthor, Rathhaus and tower, Roderthor. Left Rothenburg, 3.35 P. M. Arrived Munich, 8.55. Thurs., 8 Aug. "Die Feen:" very pretty. Sun., 11 Aug. Munich to Zurich. Mon., 12 Aug. Zurich to Interlaken. Wed., 14 Aug. W. started for Petersgrat. Thurs., 15 Aug. Ed. went to Schafloch, very fine. W. returned from Petersgrat, successful trip. Fri., 16 Aug. Went up Schynige Platte: glorious view. Saw engineers on Jungfrau. Sat., 17 Aug. To Lauterbrunnen, Wengern Alp, Scheidegg, Grindelwald. Superb day, mountains very fine, views wonderful. Wed., 21 Aug. W. started for Strahleck Pass between Schreckhorn and Finsteraarhorn. Thur., 22 Aug. W. arrived at Grimsel at 5.30 P.M. 80 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Fri., 23 Aug. W. returned: fine excursion. Mon., 26 Aug. Left Interlaken, 2.15 P. M. Lovely sail on Lake of Thoune. Arrived Bienne (or Biel) via Bern, 6.20. Tues., 27 Aug. Biel to Freiburg. Wed., 28 Aug. Excursion to Titisee. Then drive to Cathedral and through town. Thurs., 29 Aug. Freiburg to Baden-Baden. Fri., 30 Aug. Drove down Lichtenthalerallee Verbindungsweg, very pretty. In afternoon to Frankfurt. Sat., 31 Aug. Frankfurt to Homburg. Hotel Freyberg. Started taking Elizabeth Brunnen. Sun., 15 Sept. Left Homburg, 4 P. M. Mon., 16 Sept. Arrived Paris, 8.47 A. M. Hotel du Jar din. Thurs., 26 Sept. Paris to London. Splendid cross ing of Channel. Sat., 28 Sept. London to Windsor and back. Visited Castle (East Terrace); drove through Park and Forest; saw grapevine. Sun., 29 Sept. Drove to Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew. Through Chelsea, Richmond, Putney and back through Hammersmith. Tues., 1 Oct. London to Salisbury. Went to Cathedral and Close: King s Wardrobe very fine. Wed., 2 Oct. Drove to Stonehenge, past Old Sarum and Avebury House. Returned via Lake House and Valley of Avon. IN MEMORIAM. 81 Thurs., 3 Oct. Salisbury to Winchester. Drove to Cathedral; to Hospital of St. Cross, glorious Norman windows; County Hall and Round Table. Fri., 4 Oct. Salisbury to Exeter. Cathedral very fine. Sat., 5 Oct. Exeter to Bridgwater: Royal Clarence Hotel, good. Visited St. Mary s Church. In afternoon to Wells. Mon., 7 Oct. Wells via Bristol to Gloucester: Cathedral very fine. Tues., 8 Oct. To A. M. service in Gloucester Cathedral: cloister fine, fan tracery. In afternoon to Hereford; Cathedral fine Norman. Wed., 9 Oct. Hereford to Chester. Went to Cathedral, stalls fine. Thurs., 10 Oct. Walked on Chester Walls in morning. In afternoon to Liverpool. Sat., 12 Oct. Sailed on Cunard S. S. Campania. Fri., 18 Oct. Arrived New York, 6.30 P. M. 1896. Sat., 9 May. Sailed on Cunard S. S. Lucania. Sat., 16 May. Landed Liverpool, 6.30 A. M. Crossed to Birkenhead. Thence to Stratford. Sun., 17 May. Stratford. Went to Trinity Church. Walked about grounds and town. Saw Harvard House and New Place. Mon., 18 May. Stratford to London. Wed., 20 May. Celebration of Queen s Birthday. Thurs., 21 May. London to Calais. 82 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sat., 23 May. Calais to Reims. Sun., 24 May. Reims, via Verdun, to Metz. Tues., 26 May. Metz, via Radstadt, to Carlsruhe. Wed., 27 May. Carlsruhe to Munich. Thurs., 28 May. Munich to Salzburg. Mon., 1 June. Drove to Berchtesgaden and Konig- see and back. Fine day, lovely drive. Row on lake. Tues., 2 June. Left Salzburg, 3.07 P. M. Fine ride over Gisella Bahn. Zell-am-See lovely. Arrived Innsbruck, 9.48. Wed., 3 June. Innsbruck. Drove to Schloss Amras, where Archduke Ferdinand and Philippine Welser lived. Also to Berg Isel to see Hofer Monu ment. He twice beat Napoleon from there. Thurs., 4 June. Innsbruck. Corpus Christi. Went to Hofkirch to see Kaiser Max s monument. Walked round town, saw Goldene Dachl, etc. Fri., 5 June. Innsbruck to Bischofshoffen. Sat., 6 June. Bischofshoffen via Steinach to Ischl. Sun., 7 June. Ischl. Walked along river Traun, pretty walk. Corpus Christi procession very pretty. Mon., 8 June. Ischl. Went through grounds of Imperial Villa. Fine view of Dachstein. Tues., 9 June. To Gmunden for the day: pleasant excursion. Wed., 10 June. Ischl via Salzburg to Munich. Thurs., 11 June. Munich to Frankfurt. Fri., 12 June. Frankfurt to Homburg to take waters. IN MEMORIAM. 83 Mon., 13 July. Homburg via Giessen to Braunfels. Visited Schloss, very fine; saw private apartments. Tues., 14 July. Left Braunfels, 10.49 A. M. Saw Lahn Valley, Limburg Cathedral, to Ems. Returned to Limburg. Via Nieder-Selters to Homburg. Sun., 19 July. Homburg via Offenburg to Heidelberg. Mon., 20 July. Drove up to Neckar Steinach. In evening drove to see the Schloss and old bridge illuminated, very fine. Tues., 21 July. Heidelberg to Hornberg. Wed., 22 July. Hornberg. Walked through village. Drove up Reichenbachthal to Fohrenbuhl, very pretty. Thurs., 23 July. Hornberg to Constanz. Saw beginning of Danube. Sat., 25 July. Constanz to St. Gall. Sun., 26 July. From St. Gall traveled via Rorschach, Sarganz and Lake of Wallenstadt to Weesen. Lunched there and thence to Glarus. Mon., 27 July. W^ent up valley in afternoon to Stachelberg, Linthal, pretty ride. Wed., 29 July. Glarus via Pfaffikon, Arth and Goldau to Brunnen. Fri., 31 July. Brunnen to Fluelen and back. Sun., 2 Aug. Drove to Schwytz, saw Rathhaus. Fri., 7 Aug. Brunnen via Lucerne to Thun. Sat., 8 Aug. Thun via Berne to Geneva. 84 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sun., 9 Aug. Geneva. Went to Exposition, Swiss village, Mountain artillery. Wed., 12 Aug. Geneva to Dijon. Thurs., 13 Aug. Dijon, via Sens and Montargis, to Orleans. Fri., 14 Aug. Orleans to Blois. Visited the very fine Chateau. Then to Amboise. Sat., 15 Aug. Chateau d Amboise very fine, pretty view. In afternoon to Tours. Sun., 16 Aug. Tours to Chenonceaux and back. Visited Chateau and park, very pretty. Mon., 17 Aug. Tours to Langeais. Visited Chateau, very fine. Drove to Usse, saw Chateau built by Vauban belonging to Comte de Blaca (?). Drove to Azay-le-Rideau, chateau belonging to Messrs, de Briancourt. Returned to Tours. Tues, 18 Aug. Tours to Loches and back. Vis ited Donjon, Chateau and Church, Porte des Cor deliers, very fine. Wed., 19 Aug. Tours to Chartres. Visited Cathedral, very fine. Thurs., 20 Aug. Drove round Chartres. Porte Guillaume, Cathedral. Chartres to Versailles, 1.35- 3.05. Visited Musee des Voitures, Petit Trianon. Drove in Pare. Fri., 21 Aug. Versailles. Visited Palace. Marie Antoinette s rooms. In afternoon to Paris. Sun., 23 Aug. Went to TEglise de 1 Oratoire: good sermon. IN MEMORIAM. 85 Mon., 24 Aug. " Lohengrin/ well sung and superbly staged. Sun., 30 Aug. Paris to Dover. Mon., 31 Aug. Dover to London. Thurs., 10 Sept. London to Liverpool. Sat., 12 Sept. Sailed for home on Cunard S. S. Lucania. Fri., 18 Sept. Arrived New York, 6.30 P. M. 1897. Sat., 5 June. Sailed on Cunard S. S. Lucania. Sat., 12 June. Landed Liverpool, 7.30. On to London and Dover. Crossed Channel. Sun., 13 June. Arrived Calais, midnight. Fine crossing. Mon., 14 June. Calais to Paris. Fri., 18 June. Left Paris per Wagon-Lit. Sat., 19 June. Arrived Frankfurt. On to Hom- burg to take the waters. Sun., 25 July. Homburg to Hildesheim (Heiliges Heim) . Mon., 26 July. Hildesheim. Visited Dom, Cloisters, Rathhaus; drove round town, houses and roofs very fine. Tues., 27 July. Visited Michaelis Kirche. Hil desheim to Goslar, 1.55-2.49 P. M. Visited Kaiser Haus, Kunst-Uhr, and drove round Goslar. Wed., 28 July. Left Goslar, 10.20. Drove through Okerthal to Romerhalle and Bad Harz- 86 ELISE WILLING BALCH. burg. Then drove to Radau Wasserfall, round the Kaiserweg and the Molkenhaus. Thurs., 29 July. Harzburg. Pottered about the place, very pretty. Fri., 30 July. Left Harzburg, 9.30 A. M. Drove across meadows and through woods to Ilsenburg, very pretty. Then drove over Plessenburg and through Steinerne Renne to Wernigerode. Sat., 31 July. Wernigerode to Quedlinburg. Sun., 1 Aug. Visited Schloss and Schloss Kirche, saw souvenirs of the Abbesses. In afternoon from Quedlinburg to Halle. Mon., 2 Aug. Drove about Halle, full of memen toes of Luther. In afternoon to Dresden. Elbe very high, terrible floods. Fri., 6 Aug. Dresden. Have been several times to Gallery. Also driven about. Sat., 7 Aug. Dresden via Leipzig and Halle to Magdeburg. Sun., 8 Aug. Drove round Magdeburg, saw Cathedral, very fine, where they were having a military service. In afternoon via Stendal, Welzen and Liineburg to Liibeck. Mon., 9 Aug. Liibeck. Drove round town, very clean. To Kaufleut s Haus and other places. Memling pictures. Marienkirche. In afternoon to Travemiinde. Tues., 10 Aug. Liibeck. Visited Rathhaus, fine staircase of colored brick and fine rooms, Kriegs IN MEMORIAM. 87 Zimmer carving very fine. In afternoon to Bre men. Wed., 11 Aug. Bremen. Drove round, went to Dom and Gewerbehaus. Quaint, pretty town. Thurs., 12 Aug. Bremen, visited Rathhaus and Rathskeller. Fri., 13 Aug. Bremen to Groningen. Pleasant journey, country looks Dutch. Drove round Gronin gen, saw harbor, etc. Sat., 14 Aug. Groningen to Leeuwarden. Drove round town, very quaint. Lots of canals and canal boats. Waage Huis, Oldenhorn. Sun., 15 Aug. Leeuwarden. Visited Friesland Museum. Two interesting rooms from Hindeloopen, also fine collection of porcelain made by Mynherr Ypey (?). In afternoon drove to farm of K. U. Kuperus. Mon., 16 Aug. Leeuwarden to Hindeloopen and back. At Hindeloopen drove to O. van Elselo s house, and saw his old things. Visited Museum, very fine. Tues., 17 Aug. Leeuwarden via Meppel, Zwolle, Amersfort and Hilversrum to Amsterdam. Wed., 18 Aug. Amsterdam. Rijks Museum. Saw pictures, Dutch rooms, relics and costumes. Drove about. Thurs., 19 Aug. Drove to Buiksloot, Broeck, Moninckendam, Edam and Vollendam. Here went around village and visited several houses, very clean and interesting. 88 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Fri., 20 Aug. Amsterdam to Alkmaar and back. Went to see Cheese Market, Waage Huis, Stadhuis and church. Sat., 21 Aug. Visited Six collection of pictures, Nieuwe Kerk, tomb of Admiral de Ruyter. In afternoon to The Hague. Sun., 22 Aug. Spent afternoon at Scheveningen. Mon., 23 Aug. Went to Queen s Palace, First and Second Chambers and Truce Chamber in Binnenhof. Drove to the Huis ten Bosch and round the town. Tues., 24 Aug. The Hague to Delft and back. Went to Prinzen Hof, Oude Kerk, saw Van Tromp s tomb, to Nieuwe Kerk, tomb of William the Silent very fine, and Stadhuis. Wed., 25 Aug. The Hague to Ley den and back. Visited University, St. Peter s Church, tombs of Jean de Witt and Van Kerckhoven. To Ethno graphical Museum, very fine. Thurs., 26 Aug. To Royal Library, missals very fine. To Scheveningen in afternoon. Fri., 27 Aug. To Leyden and back. Saw kake monos and makemonos, very fine. Went through Groote Markt at The Hague. Sat., 28 Aug. To Maurishuis to see pictures. In afternoon from s Gravenhaag to Utrecht. Sun., 29 Aug. Utrecht. Went to Church and Cathedral. Walked about town. Mon., 30 Aug. Utrecht to Arnheim. IN MEMORIAM. 89 Tues., 31 Aug. Arnheim to Wiesbaden. Fine journey up Rhine: saw Kaiser flotilla at Coblentz. Wed., 1 Sept. Wiesbaden to Homburg. Thurs., 2 Sept. Homburg. In evening rehearsal of Zapfenstreich, very good and impressive. Fri., 3 Sept. Kaiser and Kaiserin arrived 12.45. King and Queen of Italy arrived 5.40 P. M.: he is fine looking, she is pretty: both gracious. In evening Zapfenstreich. Sat., 4 Sept. Kaiserparade of 50,000 men: fine, drove out. The Grand Duke and Duchess of Hesse, King Humbert, Kaiser, Prince Leopold of Bavaria all led their regiments past [the grand stand]. In evening town illuminated. Sun., 5 Sept. Homburg to Cologne. Mon., 6 Sept. Visited Cathedral of Cologne in morning, very fine. In evening to Calais. Tues., 7 Sept. Calais to London. Wed., 15 Sept. London. Have been to National Gallery several times; to British Museum to see the kakemonos, also Egyptian, Assyrian and Roman sections; and to other places. Thurs., 16 Sept. London to Liverpool. Sat., 18 Sept. Sailed for home on Cunarder Lucania. Fri., 24 Sept. Reached home, 10.30 P. M. 1899. Sat., 20 May. Sailed on Cunard S. S. Campania. Sat., 27 May. Arrived Liverpool. On to Dover. 90 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sun., 28 May. Dover to Calais. Mon., 29 May. Calais to Paris. Thurs., 8 June. Have been to Louvre, St. Ger main en Laye, several times to opera and driven about during our stay. By night train to Frankfurt. Fri., 9 June. Arrived Homburg: to take waters. Mon., 10 July. Homburg to Liineburg: quaint old town. Tues., 11 July. Liineburg. Visited Rathhaus, fine carving by Albert von Soest 1567: drove round town and to see Kloster Lune and Stiftshaus. In afternoon to Kiel. Wed., 12 July. Kiel to Flensburg. Thurs., 13 July. Flensburg via Fredericia, Strib, Nyborg, Korsor to Copenhagen. Fri., 14 July. Visited Thorwaldsen Museum and Collection of Danish Antiquities. In evening drove round Copenhagen. Sat., 15 July. Visited Vor Frue Kirke, fine statues of Thorwaldsen; also Slot Rosenborg, pretty garden; dined at Tivoli in evening. Sun., 16 July. In afternoon by steamer to Mai- mo; left, 9.20 P. M. Mon., 17 July. Arrived Stockholm, 9.20 A. M. Took a drive round Djurgard, also all round Stockholm. Tues., 18 July. Visited Northern Museum. In afternoon and evening to Stransen, saw dancing by children dressed in costume of country. IN MEMORIAM. 91 Wed., 19 July. Visited Royal Palace and Rid- darholmskyrka, Gustav II. Adolphus grave and shields of Knights of Order of the Seraphim. In afternoon to Salts jobadden. Thurs., 20 July. Visited Royal Library. " Codex Aureus, " " Libra Giganteum, " and carrier-pigeon message from Andree. In afternoon to Drotting- holm. Fri., 21 July. Visited National Museum. Fine picture of Washington, painted by Winterfeldt in Philadelphia in 1795. Left Stockholm, 5.25 P. M. Sat., 22 July. Arrived Morsil 11.45 A. M. A Swedish health resort on a plateau 1080 feet high. Sun., 23 July. Left Morsil, 11.48 A. M. Ar rived Storlien, 3.25 P. M. Arrived Throndhjem, 9.50 P. M. A very pleasant journey. Mon., 24 July. Visited Cathedral, drove round town. In afternoon drove to Leerfos, pretty drive, falls fine. Tues., 25 July. Throndhjem. Visited Cathedral and walked round town. Wed., 26 July. Pouring rain. Left Throndhjem, 7 P. M. Engine broke down at Roros. Had to wait two hours for another. Thurs., 27 July. Arrived Kristiania, 2.30 P. M. Drove to Oscarshall, and to see the old church of Gol, with the foren house and stabbur from Tele- marken. 92 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Fri., 28 July. Visited Viking ship and picture gallery. In the afternoon drove to Holmenkollen and Frognersaeter, fine view. Sat., 29 July. Prowled round Kristiania. In afternoon to Sandvikenarr, thence drove to Sund- volden. Pretty drive. Sun., 30 July. From Sundvolden drove to Honefos, very pretty. In afternoon to Kristiania. Pleasant excursion. Wed., 2 Aug. Kristiania to Goteborg, pleasant journey. Thurs., 3 Aug. Left Goteborg, 9.30 A. M. Crossed the Sound, arrived Copenhagen, 5.37 P. M. Dined at Tivoli. Fri., 4 Aug. Copenhagen to Roskilde. Visited Cathedral, fine; also chapel with tombs. In evening to Odense. Sat., 5 Aug. Odense to Hamburg. Sun., 6 Aug. Drove round Hamburg. Binnen and Aussen Alster. Mon., 7 Aug. Hamburg to Bremen. Drove round town; took supper at Rathskeller. Tues., 8 Aug. Bremen to Cologne. Wed., 9 Aug. Cologne to Homburg, then to Frankfurt. Took supper at Palmgarten. Thurs., 10 Aug. Frankfurt to Koln. Fri., 11 Aug. Koln to Brussels. Sat., 12 Aug. Brussels, crossed by "Calais- Douvres" to Dover. IN MEMORTAM. 93 Sun., 13 Aug. Went to Trinity Church. Mon., 14 Aug. Dover to London. Tues., 15 Aug. Visited South Kensington Museum and Kensington Palace. Wed., 16 Aug. London to Oxford. Thurs., 17 Aug. At Bodleian Library in morning. Drove round town to Magdalen, St. John s, Wadham, Christ Church, Murton, Corpus, Worcester. Fri., 18 Aug. Drove to Blenheim and through Park. Sat., 19 Aug. Walked through Baliol, Trinity gardens; Exeter Chapel; saw Burne- Jones pictures, Lincoln. Sun., 20 Aug. Went to service at Christ Church. Walked through Broad walk, Meadows, Queen s, All Souls, Brazenoze. Mon., 21 Aug. Oxford to Leamington. Drove through Lord Leigh s Park, very fine. Stoneleigh Abbey. Tues., 22 Aug. Drove through Stoneleigh to Coventry. Back to Kenilworth, Grey s Cliff and Warwick. St. Mary s Church, Beauchamp Chapel. Wed., 23 Aug. Drove to Warwick Castle and Stratford on Avon. On to Shottery, Anne Hathe- way s Cottage, to Charlcote Park, Church at Hampton Lucy, back through Barford. Thurs., 24 Aug. Leamington via Birmingham to Liverpool. Sat. , 26 Aug. Sailed on Cunard R. M. S. Campania. Fri., 1 Sept. Arrived New York, 9.30 P. M, 94 ELISE WILLING BALCH. 1900. Sat., 16 June. Philadelphia to Saratoga. Mon., 18 June. Saratoga to Montreal. Thurs., 21 June. Left Montreal, 9.30 A. M. on sleeping car "Lorraine," on C. P. R. Porter John Brown. Fri., 22 June. Traveled along north shore of Lake Superior. Sat., 23 June. Crossed the prairies. Sun., 24 June. Crossed the Rocky Mountains. Dined at Glacier House. Crossed the Selkirks. Met Mr. Cambie, Chief Engineer of West division of C. P. R. Mon., 25 June. Breakfasted at North Bend House. Arrived Vancouver, 1.30 P. M. Thurs., 28 June. Vancouver. Drove round Park. Saw " Big Trees." Fri., 29 June. Ride to Fairview and Mount Pleasant: fine view of Vancouver. Mon., 2 July. Vancouver via Seattle to Tacoma. Mon., 9 July. On steamer " Queen" to Seattle. Left, 11 P. M. Tues., 10 July. M. very sick, so she and I landed at Victoria at 6.30 A. M. Wed., 11 July. Visited Navy Yard at Esquimalt. Saw the "Arethusa" in dry dock. Thurs., 12 July. To Oak Bay and back. Sun., 15 July. To Beacon Hill. IN MEMORIAM. 95 Wed., 18 July. Drove through Gorge, Burnside Road, Rockland Avenue, etc. Fri., 20 July. E. and W. arrived 1.30 A. M. from Alaska. Sat., 21 July. Went to Chinatown Joss House, very interesting. Sun., 22 July. Drove through Beacon Hill Park, round beaches to Oak Bay. Tues., 24 July. Victoria to Tacoma. Wed., 25 July. Tacoma to Portland. Thurs., 26 July. Drive to Woodlawn and Wil lamette Heights. Sat., 28 July. Left Portland at 8.30 A. M. on sleeping car. Sun., 29 July. Arrived San Francisco, 8 P. M. Mon., 30 July. Went out to Point Lobos and saw the sea lions, the Golden Gate and the Pacific Ocean. Tues., 31 July. To Mission Dolores. To Presidio Reservation, fine view of Golden Gate. Wed., 1 Aug. San Francisco to Del Monte. Thurs., 2 Aug. Went to Monterey. Saw old Spanish Custom House, and flag pole on which first American flag was raised. Fri., 3 Aug. To Santa Cruz and "Big Trees." Drove back to Santa Cruz, and by train to Del Monte. Sat., 4 Aug. Took "17 mile drive" through Monterey, Pacific Grove, Moss Beach, Cypress Point, etc. 96 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Mon., 6 Aug. Del Monte to San Francisco. Wed., 8 Aug. Left San Francisco 8 P. M. Thurs., 9 Aug. En route on Southern Pacific R. R. Mt. Shasta Route. Fri., 10 Aug. Arrived Portland, 7.15 A. M. Sat., 11 Aug. Portland to Tacoma. Fri., 17 Aug. Tacoma to Vancouver. Wed., 22 Aug. Vancouver to North Bend. Sat., 25 Aug. Arrived Glacier, 8.30 A. M., where found E. and W. Had breakfast. Snow from Field to Calgary; very fine. Sun., 26 Aug. On C. P. R. across prairies. Mon., 27 Aug. Along Lake Superior. Tues., 28 Aug. Arrived Montreal, 6.10 P. M. Mon., 3 Sept. Montreal to Crawford House. 1901. Sat., 4 May. Sailed on Cunard R. M. S. Lu- cania. Sat., 11 May. Arrived Liverpool, 8.45 A. M. On to London. Sun., 12 May. Went to Westminster Abbey to service in afternoon. Mon., 13 May. London to Dover. Tues., 14 May. Dover via Calais to Brussels. Fri., 17 May. Brussels to Paris. Sun., 19 May. Went to service at FOratoire. Thurs., 23 May. To Chantilly and back. Vis ited Chateau and Pare. Saw Chateau de la Reine Blanche. IN MEMORIAM. 97 Thurs., 6 June. Left Paris, 8.20 P. M., by sleeping car. Fri., 7 June. Arrived Homburg. Sun., 28 July. Homburg to Gotha. Mon., 29 July. Drove round Gotha. On to Weimar. Drove round Weimar. Visited Library. Homes and tomb of Schiller and Goethe. Tues., 30 July. Weimar to Dresden. Sat., 10 Aug. Dresden. During our stay here have visited picture gallery several times, been to Porcelain Collection, and driven about a great deal, to Moritzburg and other places. Dr. Peschel dined with us once. Sun., 11 Aug. Dresden, via Leipzig, Halle, Hildesheim and Hannover to Bremen. Mon., 12 Aug. Bremen via Leer and Nieweschanz to Groningen. Tues., 13 Aug. Groningen to Leeuwarden. Drove round town. Wed., 14 Aug. Leeuwarden via Zwolle and Utrecht to Amsterdam. Fri., 16 Aug. Amsterdam to Hoorn. Drove round. Then by train to Enkhuisen and back to Amsterdam. Sat., 17 Aug. Left, 10.15 A. M. for Marken via canal passing Broeck and Monnikendam. Back at 4.30 P. M. Lovely excursion. Mon., 19 Aug. Amsterdam to Brussels. Thurs., 22 Aug. Brussels via Calais to Dover. 98 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Fri., 23 Aug. Drove to Dover Castle and along Marine Parade. Mon., 26 Aug. Dover to London. Tues., 27 Aug. Visited Wallace Collection, Hert ford House. Wed., 28 Aug. To National Gallery. Thurs., 29 Aug. To British Museum, Library. Sat., 31 Aug. London to Leamington. Tues., 3 Sept. Lunched at Warwick arid took tea down by the Castle. Wed., 4 Sept. Leamington to Lichfield. Visited Cathedral, Dr. Johnson s house, St. Chad s Church. Then to Chester. Thurs., 5 Sept. Chester. Drove to Eaton Hall; through Park to Ha war den. Fri., 6 Sept. Chester to Liverpool. Sat., 7 Sept. Sailed on Cunard R. M. S. Lucania. Sat., 14 Sept. Arrived New York, 8.30 A. M. To Philadelphia. Mr. McKinley died this morning. 1902. Sat., 7 June. Sailed per Cunard S. S. Lucania. Sat., 14 June. Arrived Liverpool, 11 A. M. Arrived Edinburgh, 6.05 P. M. Sun., 15 June. Edinburgh. To Service at St. Giles, John Knox s church. Drove round Arthur s Seat, through Canongate, High St., Lawn Market, etc. IN MEMORIAM. 99 Mon., 16 June. Holyrood Palace, St. Giles, Castle, drove through town. Tues., 17 June. Edinburgh to London. Wed., 18 June. London to Dover. Thurs., 19 June. Dover via Calais to Paris. Sun., 22 June. Went to the Temple de FOratoire. Also to Louvre to see Venus de Milo. Fri., 27 June. Left Paris by Carlsbad Express. Sat., 28 June. Arrived Homburg. Wed., 16 July. Visited the Saalburg with Miss Baer. Herr Jacobi showed us the new things found in the ruins. Tues., 5 Aug. Homburg to Freiburg in Breisgau. Wed., 6 Aug. Spent day at Titisee, very pretty excursion. Thurs., 7 Aug. Freiburg via Bale to Neuhausen. Fri., 8 Aug. Went to Singen with E. Sat., 9 Aug. Went to Schaffhausen. Sat., 16 Aug. Neuhausen via Schaffhausen, Zurich and Bellinzona to Locarno. Sun., 17 Aug. Locarno. Walked around old town: fine day: Madonna del Sasso very pictur esque in distance. Tues., 19 Aug. Locarno via Bellinzona, Arth and Goldau to Lucerne. Thurs., 21 Aug. Excursion to Stanstad, Stans and Engelberg, lovely ride. Fri., 22 Aug. Lucerne. Took drive round town, through Horw, Kastanienbaum and back. 100 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Sat., 23 Aug. Visited Lion and Panorama des Alpes, very good; old bridges and walls. Sun., 24 Aug. To Hochdorf and back. Saw play of " Arnold von Winkelried," acted by the people of Hochdorf; local, very creditable. Mon., 25 Aug. Left 9.50 P. M. per Engadine Express. Tues., 26 Aug. Arrived Paris, 8.40 A. M. Wed., 27 Aug. Visited the Musee du Luxem bourg. Thurs., 28 Aug. Visited Musee du Louvre. Sat., 30 Aug. Paris via Calais to Dover. Tues., 2 Sept. Dover to London. Thurs., 4 Sept. National Gallery. Fri., 5 Sept. City and St. Paul s. Sun., 7 Sept. Drove to Kew: visited Gardens. Mon., 8 Sept. London to Buxton. Tues., 9 Sept. Train to Rowsley. Visited Haddon Hall and Chatsworth: drove to Bakewell: train to Buxton. Wed., 10 Sept. Buxton to Liverpool. Thurs., 11 Sept. Liverpool to Methley, York shire, [the home of the Shippens], by train. Walked past Church of St. Oswald, to Rectory, where we lunched with Rev. and Mrs. H. Armstrong Hall. Drove to Leeds: by train to Liverpool. Sat., 13 Sept. Sailed on Cunard S. S. Lucania. Sat., 20 Sept. Arrived New York, 10 A. M. IN MEMORIAM. 101 V. LETTERS FROM NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA AND GERMANY. 1881. The journey on which these letters were written was made by my sister and myself. We left Phila delphia on 28 May on the American Line S. S. "Illinois," landed at Liverpool on 8 June, and went via Lincoln and York to Hull, whence we sailed on 10 June on the S. S. " Cameo" of the Wilson Line, reaching Christiania on 13 June. Thence we went by rail to Throndhjem, after which our trip, up to our departure from Moscow, is described in my sister s letters to my mother. On board S. S. Michael Krohn en route for the North Cape, June 20, 1881. I finished my Throndhjem letter in rather a hurry, for I did not know that we should not leave there until one o clock in the morning, but such was the case. The steamer did not arrive until two o clock P. M. We left at 1 A. M. and did not go to bed until we had gone some distance up the fjord. We walked about on shore for about two hours before we left. You cannot imagine how curious it was to walk about by daylight one may say, for the sun did not set until after ten, 102 ELISE WILLING BALCH. and then after the sunset tints had almost died out, the sunrise ones began. It was most beauti ful, although not so beautiful as the one we saw this morning however, I must not anticipate, so I will resume the thread of my discourse. We passed our time at Throndhjem quite happily. We had seen everything so we wandered round a little more, and watched the people. I think I stopped just as we were leaving for Munkholme, i. e., Monk s Home, the old fort in the harbor. We had a lovely row thither and then found a soldier (he was the Corporal, for you must know that the garrison consists of six men, a corporal and a captain) who showed us round. They used to have a prison there, but it is now converted into a powder-magazine, round and over and through which we walked. We saw the prison of one of Christian V. s ministers, who was imprisoned there for eighteen years: it must have been a most cheerful abode. I have just succeeded in finding out this can be posted at Bodo, some time tonight: if one can say night, when daylight continues all the time. But it has reference to the hours after midday: we can then say night just as well as at any other time in this country: you cannot imagine how strange it is. Well now, something, not much, about our fellow passengers. They are mostly uninteresting. Almost all are Norwegian. There IN MEMORIAM. 103 is one old Englishman, who is very nice: and one young one, whom we have dubbed " Carrots" owing to his auburn? hair and beard: a Dutch man, who is most irrepressible: these, with the exception of Mrs. Hulton and Miss Meeking, con stitute all those with whom we can have much to say. With some of the others we can and we do occasionally exchange a few words, but they are not proficient in our tongue, and we are woefully deficient in theirs. There is a dear little boy on board, whom we call "the small Viking. " I talk to him in English and he gazes at me in bewilder ment. I made him say some English words this morning, and he was very funny over them. But you must be longing to hear about the scenery. It is beautiful and all the more so for the great quantity of snow that still lies over not only the mountain tops, but also all down the sides. Today we saw a most wonderful reflection of them in the water. It is now four o clock and I am as hungry as possible. There goes the dinner bell. Rah! Rah! Rah! After dinner We were so hungry that the grub tasted very good: besides some of it was very good: cold salmon with cream and horse-radish sauce. Well, this must be ready soon. We are unloading part of our cargo. Ed. is sketching: he made quite a pretty sketch this morning, when we stopped for half an hour. We have come to the 104 ELISE WILLING BALCH. conclusion that they are gradually working our meals round so that when we get to the North Cape we shall regularly turn night into day. Any how we shall not [go] to bed until three or after, for we then enter the Arctic Circle and pass the rock called the Horseman. Last night or rather this morning we were up until 2J^. I slept until 10, breakfasted at 11, every one did. We arrived at Troghatta, the pierced mountain, at 10 P. M., and went ashore in boats and started up, returning at 1J/2. The ship sailed down the fjord and came back for us, so we had to wait a little for her, which we did sitting on the heather. We built a fire and made ourselves comfortable. Ed. took good care of me, helping me both up and down, and we looked through the natural tunnel that is way up in the mountain. It was most curious and quite beau tiful, and the sunset was gorgeous, as also the sun rise. Today the scenery has been most lovely and the trip as smooth as possible. ******* ELISE. En route for North Cape, 22 June 1881. News has just reached me that this may be posted at our next stopping place, so, despite the noise of the donkey engine, I will endeavor to scrawl a few lines to tell you of our welfare thus IN MEMORIAM. 105 far. We are now laying in the harbor of Stockaness, where a large fair is being held. We went on shore to see, landing in the most peculiar w r ay, scrambling from one boat into the other. It was anything but an easy journey. I must have looked lovely, for I had on my old black hat, round which I had gracefully wound my thick blue veil, and my mackintosh with the hood drawn over my head!! Picture me, pray, and holding up my skirts to save them from dipping into the wet. There was one comfort: Mrs. Hulton looked just as funny if not funnier, for her mackintosh has a pointed hood, and the point wagged to and fro when she moved, and Miss Meeking was also enveloped in a mackin tosh. It was and alas it is still raining. But our struggles to land were nothing compared to those that we went through when we wished to return to the ship, which has now become a haven of rest to us. Ed. had gone for a stroll, but after many efforts we succeeded in finding a man: he was very handsome by the way: a most pensive face with blue eyes, fair hair and beard, a most perfect type of Lohengrin. He volunteered to find us a boat and did so. I scrambled down the steps of the pier and turning round saw Miss Meeking supported by two hardy Norsemen: she had grabbed one by the arm and insisted on his helping her down the steps whereupon the other had offered his services. Again we had to scramble over boats, some filled 106 ELISE WILLING BALCH. with stockfish. 0! you happy creature, you do not know the blissful (?) odor which emanates from the above article. Then we started on our shipwards journey. We landed safely on board and then the joyful tidings reached me that I might possibly send you this, so without delay I sat myself down. The fair was quite funny, rather muddy, rather fishy, but still well worth seeing. We saw a Lapp in his dress : he was quite small and with white hair. I invested in a silver thimble with an amethyst top to it, for which I paid the high price of 70 cents. But I must not forget to tell you that night before last was most beautiful. We saw the midnight sun: the Hestmanno or Horseman, a queer shaped rock, passed the Arctic Circle and the largest glacier in Europe. We stayed up until four o clock in the morning and then I hated to turn in, but it was necessary to sleep. We stayed up on the bridge until quite late and then on deck. I wish that I could tell you how very beautiful the mountains were, rising on all sides, the queer shapes, etc., most covered with snow: and then the sun not setting but going down to the verge of the horizon tinting them with the loveliest colors. Then about half past three we turned into a dear little bay shel tered by these snow capped mountains. On one side of the boat everything looked sunny, and on the other stern, cold and forbidding. I can now IN MEMORIAM. 107 quite understand why all the Northern mythology is so severe and stern. Last night it was cloudy but the light was wonderful. It was silvery, neither night nor day, and the far off isles with mountains looked so mysterious in the distance. We stayed up late: 12.30. Indeed we stay up at night and sleep sometimes during the day. We breakfast any time from 10 to 11: dine from 4 to 6: and sup at 9-10 etc. Altogether our life is most erratic. My sofa-bed is rather narrow, but I sleep very well. The donkey engine occasionally disturbs my slumbers, but altogether I derive a great deal of amusement from the scene. There is a Hamburg merchant on board with whom we have German conversations: he has just offered me some bon bons from the fair. They are not as good as Whit man s: to say nothing of Arnauld s. ******* ELISE. TVowso, 26 June 1881. De retour du Nordkap. Here we are at anchor for some two to three hours, part of which I propose to spend in recapit ulating to you our experiences of the past few days. I think that I wrote to Grandpapa on Thursday, but it might have been Friday. It is so hard to mark the days in anyway. Yes, it must have been Thursday, for Friday we pitched and tossed frightfully. I woke up quite sick and was wretched 108 ELISE WILLING BALCH. all day. I could not get warm and as my cabin is a cold one and the day and night were bitter, the Captain gave me his for the evening and the night. At first I just laid on the sofa covered up with shawls and drinking champagne and eating bis cuits. Then when we arrived at the North Cape, I went up on deck and Mrs. Hulton, Miss Meeking and I staid in the smoking room, with the old Englishman, whilst Ed. (American), the Cap tain (Norwegian), Mr. Kol (Dutch), Mr. Walker (English) and a Swede, whom we call "the Shep- pard" as his friend looks like a sheep and is nick named "the Lamb " went off to climb the North Cape. It was hailing when they started, never theless we persevered in watching them land and then scramble up through the snow until the jutting rocks hid them from our sight. Then we went inside and waited for them to reappear, which they did after some time sliding down on the snow. Then the boat went off for them, with beer, and brought them back to have some warm coffee and hot water and whiskey, and also some eatables. It snowed a great deal but they enjoyed the climb: Ed. said that it was glorious. He brought some flowers down with him, of which he gave me some- he is making a collection of Norwegian flowers to take home and showed them with a very happy air. You have no idea how grand the North Cape looked covered with snow and in its wild, savage IN MEMORIAM. 109 grandeur. And to be there at midnight! I got my skirts drenched, so they spent the night in the engine room, as also my boots and my ulster. But I am none the worse for my snowy night: on the contrary I slept until eleven o clock the next morn ing. Then I arose and went to my cabin to dress arousing Miss Meeking who had slept in the ladies cabin, and she went in and waked up Mrs. Hulton who inquired the time, and when told said " morn ing or evening" and when told evening, fully be lieved the statement until enlightened by our laughter. I think that that will give you a good idea of how daylight runs on. Yesterday we landed at a queer little fishing village and watched the boys playing a game, half base ball and half round ers, which they seemed to greatly enjoy. Then we saw the most glorious sunset lights. We did not see the sun, for clouds hid it from view, but occa sionally its rays pierced through the gloom. Today is most glorious so we expect to see the full glory of the midnight light. Ed. has bought a superb white bear skin, which is packed up in a tarred box. You will admire it when we return. I want to get some silver fox, if not too dear, at Bergen: but we shall see. I had an eiderduck egg given to me yesterday; it is a light green with dark spots all over it, and very pretty. Tromso is a quaint old fashioned looking place: quite a num ber of the houses are built on piles and stand over 110 ELISE WILLING BALCH. the water. It stands at the head of a small fjord: all the mountains round are covered with snow, and are most beautiful. I hope that you admire this paper. I bought it here as my supply was growing short. I also bought some photographs of the Lapps. ******* ELISE. Molde, 3 July 1881. We start for Aak and Veblungsnaes in about three quarters of an hour, so I will profit by these few minutes to write you a few lines, which shall be added to at Aak. Just after I had closed my letter on Friday we arrived at Christiansund, a most beautifully, most picturesquely situated little place and recalling Sorrento a little. We went on shore and wandered round: saw an old church of the 12th century and a very pretty little park, where some good singing was going on. We left there about midnight, then after settling accounts we went to bed and got up at 4J^> and landed here at 5 A. M. A nice old boatman rowed us over here. The Captain handed me down to the boat and we waved farewell to him and Mrs. Hulton and Miss Meeking as we rowed off. Here we had some nice coffee and eggs and then turned in and slept until one o clock, when we each had a tub of warm water. IN MEMORIAM. Ill Hotel Aak, Tuesday 5 July. Here I was interrupted by the steamboat s whistle and I had to put my things up quickly: so I resume. We had dinner at two at which a gen tleman appeared: being the only lady, I spoke to him, and then Ed. and he entered into conversa tion. He proved to be a Belgian from Gand, by the name of Fieve, had travelled a good deal and was quite pleasant. Much to my amusement he took me for Ed. s wife and called me Madame. After dinner we took a walk down the road to a pretty villa belonging to some consul who lives at Chris- tiansund. It was very pleasant, the road was good and the view lovely. After tea we took an other stroll, this time to a little hill back of the house. The evening was rather overcast which was unfortunate, but still the view was lovely. Next morning it poured, so we slept rather late and then instead of going to Alfarness and thence driv ing to Veblungsnaes, we took the steamer for the latter place. There were only Norwegians on board, some officers one of whom talked German to Ed. and made himself quite agreeable. The scenery as we came along was lovely, always very wild. At Veblungsnaes we found the carrioles that we had telegraphed for, so we got in and started for Aak (pr. Oak). Here we got excellent rooms, there being but few here. Our brown bears were here, but they left today. Dr. and Mrs. Gor- 112 ELISE WILLING BALCH. ham and their party, whom we had heard Mrs. Gade speak of and who seem very nice also were here : unfortunately they left yesterday. An English man and his wife still remain and seem quite pleas ant: they are evidently not well off and have ap parently come here for his holiday : they are travel ling slowly. After tea on Sunday we took a walk down the valley towards the Romsdalhorn, which is very fine. There are the greatest quantity of wild flowers all around and such a lot of lilies of the valley you never saw, growing wild all around, scenting the air with their fragrance. Ed. went fishing today and caught four trout, three of which we had for tea: they were delicious: it rained hard, but with his mackintosh he did not mind it, and then changed his clothes for tea. If it is fine tomorrow, we are going up the Romsdal as far as Ormein, but both yesterday and today have been rather unpropitious for excursions. Yester day we walked to Aak and found our carrioles. ******* ELISE. [A letter is missing here. It must have described our stay in the Romsdal.] Soholdt, 11 July 1881. We have now started on our journey southwards to Bergen. We left Aak at six o clock this morn- IN MEMOEIAM. 113 ing, drove in our carrioles to Veblungsnaes, where they were put on board of the steamer we took to Vestnaes. There we got horses and drove here, across a pass that Ed. says very much resembles the Bernina. It was very pretty. I have been interpreting for the French lady and gentleman, who were coming the [same] road, Mr. and Mme. Morel Retz. He is known as "Stop": a very clever caricaturist. This place is extremely pretty and we have two very nice rooms. We had some eggs and one of our cans of Mulligatawny soup which Ed. laughed at me for buying and which he greatly enjoyed. He is a queer genius. "Oh, no! do not get any soups," but I persevered and you do not know how he enjoyed the one I warmed up today. The people here seem to understand me better than they do him, so I do most of the talk ing. When they or I cannot understand, I laugh; but I have learnt to ask for what I want. Today whilst I was getting the soup can out of our provision box, a man came into the stable and asked me if I came from England. "No," I answered "from America" (that means here al ways the United States). "Are many English coming over the road today?" "No," said I, "two French." Then pointing to my padlock he inquired "Gold?" "Yes," was my answer; then he remained and helped me nail up the box and strap it on to the carriole. You never saw such 114 ELISE WILLING BALCH. honest people; you can leave everything lying round in perfect security. And the night that Ed. went up the mountain, I slept in the new house, which is a good 100 yards from the old one at Aak, entirely alone, except the bookkeeper, and it was just as safe as if I had been guarded by soldiers. Yesterday it poured all day, so we could do nothing, but fortunately it cleared up this morning, and our trip was lovely. After tea we shall take a walk. Oh! I must not forget to tell you about Ed. s skysdgut, a small boy of five years, a nice little fellow who was perched up on the box behind him; and it did look too comical to see Ed. and this small brat, who was to bring back the horse. Now I will stop and resume tomorrow. Yesterday we saw the Daily News of Monday. I was very glad to see that the President was better; I hope that he has now entirely recovered his health: how excited every one must have been. I am quite longing for papers and news and letters, and am anxiously awaiting our arrival at Bergen. Faleide on the Nordfjord, 14 July. I suppose that I might have written to you last night after our arrival here, but first I had to clean myself, for I was horribly muddy, and then was too anxious to get to bed as we contemplated an early start at 7, to see the Glacier of Brigsdal which is near here and said to be very fine. However it was so rainy at 6 o clock that we decided not to go, so IN MEMORIAM. 115 after getting washed and partly dressed I went to bed again and slept until ten, when I arose and we had breakfast with the French lady and gentlemen and also a young Belgian and a young Frenchman. We have all been together for the last three days and they are all very pleasant and it is very nice for me to have another lady. We shall separate on Saturday, as they go to Floro and there take the steamer for Bergen and, by the way, will take this letter with them very kindly, so it will get to you sooner, while we go overland to Vadheim on the Sognefjord and thence by steamer to Bergen. But I must return to Soholdt and give you an itineraire of my journey thence. 12 July (I put the dates so that you may follow us step by step). It rained, but we started and were quite comfortable on the boat the "Lodden." We had an excellent dinner and by and by it cleared and the scenery was superb. At Hellesylt, at the end of the Stor- fjord, we left our carrioles to wait there until our return there the next day and proceeded to Merok, at the end of the Geirangerfjord which is most beautiful. It is 2J/2 Norwegian miles long or 35 English and the rocks are very steep. Here and there are farm houses, 1000 and more feet above the fjord and which are only reached by steep and long ascents; the path always starts from a boat house on the fjord and there these people live all winter. At Merok, as the hotel was very full, we 116 ELISE WILLING BALCH. decided to remain on the boat, and Mme. Morel and I, also a Norwegian lady, slept in the ladies cabin very comfortably. After supper Ed. and the young Belgian, Mr. Calmeyn, started off for a long walk whilst Mr. and Mme. Morel and I, also the Frenchman, Mr. Durant, took a shorter one to some cascades, which were beautiful. We arose next morning, 13 July, at five and arrived at Hellesylt at half past six. There we got horses, and the others horses and carrioles, and drove as far as Grodaas, where we stopped for dinner, which was excellent. The scenery was very beauti ful, only it poured just before getting to Grodaas. It poured also part of the way twixt there and here, but our mackintoshes proved excellent. Here we are very comfortable. We have two very nice rooms. Last evening we had an excellent supper and to-day, 15 July, we were going to the Glacier of Brigsdal, but it poured, so we postponed our expedition until tomorrow, when we start at 7 A. M. We first row to Oldoren, then drive, and then row across a small lake, then ride on horseback and then walk: we take dinner and supper with us. So we had breakfast at 10^ and dinner will be at six. I shall soon therefore have to stop my scribbling. July 16th. We had a pleasant and exciting excursion to the Brigsdalbrae (or glacier) and we are now en route IN MEMORIAM. 117 for Udwig. I must darn my mackintosh, so will write you a long account from Bergen. ******* ELISE. Hafstad (Forde) 17 July 1881. Little did I foresee when I gave my letter to Madame Morel yesterday morning about seven o clock to post, what an experience we were to have, especially after the one we had just gone through. Do not worry about us though, we are quite well and do not feel the effects of it at all. Well this must be incomprehensible to you, so I will begin at the beginning. You know that I wrote to you that we were going to the Brigsdal glacier and I just added a few lines to my letter to say that we had safely returned. Much, very much should I have liked to have then sent you an account, but there was no time, as you will soon hear: so now to my story. We left Faleide at 7.30 on Friday morning, July 15. "We" consisting of Mr. and Mme. Morel, Ed. and I, Mr. Calmeyn (Beige) and Mr. Durant (Frangais), and despite pouring rain, started for Oldoren. We were two hours and a quarter rowing across the fjord, and the rain stopped, so that we landed at Oldoren in quite fine weather. There we had to wait. Then we drove over to the Olden vand, a most beautiful lake. There we got into two 118 ELISE WILLING BALCH. boats and rowed up to the end of the lake. There we had breakfast or lunch we had the provisions with us and we quite enjoyed our repast. Then we ordered horses, but, as only one was there and the others were up the valley, we started to walk there; fortunately I had put on my knickerbockers and left off my underskirt. It began to rain and the walking was awful: simply and solely fearfully wet. The one horse was given to Mr. Morel, who had sprained his foot very badly. Ed. went ahead and got a horse for me, with nothing, however, but a blanket strapped on, for no saddles were to be had, and after trying a few steps sideways, I re solved to imitate Mme. M. and ride a calif our chon, straddle back. Mr. C. made a pair of Arab stir rups for her and also for me so that our feet were covered. We rode for some distance, then we dismounted and walked. It was a rather hard walk, but I have taken much harder ones and the glacier was most beautiful, as indeed the whole journey there. It was one of the most beautiful things that I have ever seen. Then we walked and rode back to find the lake extremely agitated and our rowers declaring that we must wait. A fire had been kindled in a stove in one of the peasants houses, and there we went and got some peasants stockings and shoes and I a skirt and apron, so as to dry my dress a little. The stockings and low shoes I wore back to Faleide and sent them back IN MEMORIAM. 119 to the woman. Every one was in the same box, so nobody cared. Mme. M. took off her skirt and appeared in her short black underskirt. (By the way I am going to have my dress shortened at Bergen, I shall be so much more comfortable.) Then we got at the rest of our provisions and made an excellent supper. When it was over, Ed. de clared that we could go back, so he went out and interviewed the men and they said we could. So off we started, this time in three boats. We rowed back very pleasantly and reached the end of the lake at half past midnight. Then we drove to Oldoren. There we got into our boats and rowed a certain distance down the fjord, but it became so rough that we had to land at a fisher s hut and wait there for a while. It calmed down and we started off again and reached Faleide at 5. The boat we wanted to take started at 6.30 and as we had sent forbud for horses and did not want to wait and so forfeit them, we dressed and packed up, had some breakfast and took the steamer. Mr. and Mme. M. came by her to Moldoen and thence to Bergen. But Ed. and I, and Mr. C. and Mr. D. got off at Udvig and started in our carrioles for Red. Soon I had to descend for we began to ascend the most stupendous hill and through the woods. It was an awful walk and then it rained. It was very muddy and unfortunately I had put on my dry shoes and rubbers. I say unfortunately for 120 ELISE WILLING BALCH. soon they were wringing wet and I might just as well have had on the wet ones. Then when we got to the top and the carrioles joined us, we found that one of my springs was broken: fortunately Mr. D. knew a great deal about springs so he tied it together and I then got in and we came down. It poured coming down, simply pelted, but we had glimpses of most lovely scenery. We got to Red and found our boat awaiting us. We got in and began our lunch. After that it rained and when we got to Forde at the other end of the lake we thought of stopping, but then decided to go on. So off we started; for a while it was fine and then down came the rain again. Ed. in his carriole and Mr. C. and Mr. D. in the stolkjaer slept and, as they were ahead of me, I could see their heads bobbing about. Finally we reached Aardal and then decided to stop there if they could take us in: we were too wet and tired to go any further. They had two rooms, one of which I had to myself, with a clean straw bed covered with peasants blankets. Bergen, 19 July. I must break off my description to tell you how delighted I was to receive your letters this morn ing up to the 28th June. * * * Bergen is quite interesting and the silver things are beautiful. I have bought an exquisite silver belt. I got quite a pretty one, but of a different kind at Faleide. I have also three very pretty brooches for the ser- IN MEMORIAM. 121 vants. I cannot quite make up my mind, whether I shall or shall not get some silver fox. It is cer tainly very pretty, but rather expensive, and whether I need it or not I do not know: I shall see. Mme. Morel tells me that black is very much worn in Paris and has given me several good ad dresses. She has a good many ideas and French women generally have good taste. Today I bought a blue felt hat for 90 cents and tied my old dark blue foulard round it: it looks quite fine. My old black one has gone to pieces and a felt hat is useful, and it will do to travel in later: that is to say if it is not drowned before then. But both my dresses, the dark blue and the grey and white stripe will stay in Norway; also two pairs of shoes. Still I think that it is a beautiful country and when one has fine weather like today one enjoys it im mensely. Now after this long digression, which has been written by snatches, I will return to Aardal and tell you more about our adventures. Ed., Mr. C. and Mr. D. had another room together with one large and one small straw bed. I had a tin pan to wash in and a small piece of linen for a towel; the men had to go to the pump. I got out my other dress and borrowed some stockings and shoes, and started to make soup and tea. I took one of our Mulligatawny soups, added some Liebig and made a good soup. Then we washed the kettle, boiled 122 ELISE WILLING BALCH. water and made tea in a bottle, which we drank without sugar or cream or even milk. I found it good. Fortunately we had also some provisions over from our dinner and they came in very well. Of course, the gentlemen all helped me. We slept very well and the next morning, Sunday, we did some more cooking. This time I took green pea soup and added Liebig and made tea again; this time we had fresh milk. At twelve we started off and drove to Nedre Vassenden, our destination of the previous even ing. There we had coffee and Ed. scrambled some eggs, which were excellent, and then off we went again. I must not forget to say that the people at Aardal were exceedingly kind and nice, and did everything that they could for us. They wore quite curious and very picturesque dresses. After dinner we started off for Hafstad, where I began this letter; there we got good rooms and good supper. Next morning, Monday, off we started for Vadheim, the end of our carriage journey. We had a lovely day and very pleasant journey, an excellent dinner at Sande and reached Vadheim in good time for the steamer hither, where we arrived at half past three this morning. I slept well in the ladies 7 cabin, half dressed and arose just after we arrived, dressed and had some coffee; then went up on deck, whilst Ed. slept on until seven, when we landed. We came to the hotel, got baths and IN MEMORIAM. 123 breakfast and then Ed. went for the letters, which were most joyfully welcomed by both of us. Bergen, July 20. We did some more shopping this morning and this afternoon I have been packing and arranging matters. We have sent a box of things to Kris- tiania, so as to reduce our luggage still more, for much luggage here is the greatest nuisance. I shall post this in a few minutes, as we leave early tomorrow morning, at 7 A. M. Ed. has written you a short letter; he says that I write so much, that it is not worth while for him to do so. I have invested in a lovely silver fox muff, a beauty. On Saturday it will be just eight weeks since we left and next week we shall have been away just half our time. Despite the weather, I have enjoyed it, and think Norway very beautiful. Travelling here is rather hard, but on the whole rather amusing. Tomorrow we go through the Hardangerfjord as far as Odde. Then we shall visit the Skaeggedalsfos and Thelemarken, thence to Eidfjord to see the Rjukanfos and thence to Eide whence we drive to Gudvangen via Vossevangen. I will write, but when the letter reaches you, est autre chose. We shall see both Stockholm and Kjobenhavn on our way back. But I must stop. ******* ELISE. 124 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Odde on the Sorfjord, a branch of the Hardangerfjord, 23 July 1881. Again u le soleil de Norwege," as we call it, viz: the rain, favors us. So we shall probably spend the day indoors. As we are quite comfortable, and only lack a piano to be quite happy, I do not mind : nor does Ed. judging from the sounds I hear. He is down stairs with Mr. C. and Mr. D., and they are evidently trying tours de force and, not succeeding, laugh heartily at one another. Later, Ed. is going to paint one of the women here, whilst I darn stockings and write letters. If I had only some books to read I should be charmed, but I have read Bennett and Baedeker to my heart s content and really that kind of literature palls upon one after a while. But despite all contrary influences I have not the blues, so do not worry, pray. I am rather tired of rainy weather, it is not fun, but as I do not have to go out, I do not care. After I posted my letter to you at Bergen, we had a visit from Mr. Gade, our consul there, who was most kind and who took charge of a box that we wanted to send to Kristiania. I think I told you that we wanted to reduce our luggage. I must tell you that generally I have a footbath every morning and that almost everywhere one can get things washed, so that I do not feel like a pig. Please excuse mistakes, but Ed. has come up here to paint his Norwegian beauty, and after a little IN MEMORIAM. 125 the two other men came up to view his efforts, and as they are all talking and I join in occasionally, I do not think that my letter will be very suc cinct: I think that I have used the word rightly and I also think that I will stop, for fear that I might write nonsense, if I have not done it already. It is now twelve o clock and they are ringing the chimes, the first time that I have heard them in Norway. I thought of stopping here, but for tunately they have taken to letter writing also, so I continue this. Well I will go back to Bergen and our departure thence. I cannot say that we left there with deep regret, for the hotel was not very comfortable: we are far better off here. Our steamer started at seven and at first it was very pleasant, but then down came the rain, and we were driven indoors, the ladies cabin being most stuffy and full of children, one of which, an unfortunate baby, did nothing but cry. I staid up in the gang-way, where I had a camp stool and did some braid work. Ed. slept most of the day: when it rains, he is a perfect dormouse. Our meals on board were very good. Later on Ed. played the piano and we had a game of whist, coming off victors in the rubber. About half past ten I was too sleepy for words, so I also laid down, spread a blanket over my feet and gave myself up into Morpheus arms until a quarter before one; when on hearing that 126 ELISE WILLING BALCH. we were nearing Odde, I rose from my not downy couch and remounted on deck. There I found that the rain had stopped and that we were in the midst of the Sorfjord, with a most peculiar light in the distance, half yellow and half white. It was very lovely and quite vivifying, for it made us hope for fine weather for the next day: nor were we disappointed, the 22d was lovely. But, as we were rather tired, we did not go to the Skaegge- dalsfos, as we should have had to have made a very early start. We postponed it and went to the Buerbrae. We had a very pleasant little excur sion and saw a very beautiful glacier. Whilst Ed. sketched, I scrambled up the side, not on the glacier, but on the earth bordering it, and had a most beautiful view of its upper part, with two huge boulders jutting out in the midst: on the side of one fell a cascade. I thought the whole a lovely picture. Then we returned to the hotel, where, by the way, we were very comfortable, and retired early. I was stopped here by the welcome announce ment of dinner, and since then I have had a row round the fjord. Ed. was so much pleased with his morning s work, that he resolved to try his luck further this afternoon and bring home a delinea tion of the fjord as seen from the hotel porch. I did braid work for a while, and, finally getting tired, thought I would take a pull, which I ac- IN MEMORIAM. 127 cordingly did and quite enjoyed. When I returned I found that my young man had quite finished his work and made a very pretty sketch and was quite willing to take a stroll. So we started off returning for supper, after which we talked politics and now I must to bed, for we must rise early to morrow, to go to the far famed Skaeggedalsfos. So, good-night. Eidfjord or Vik, on the Hardangerfjord, 25 July. We arrived here very pleasantly about one o clock, and, having mended my mackintosh and had dinner, I thought I would enjoy a little chat with you. The hostess has promised to send this off by tomorrow s steamer, whilst I am at the Voringfos, so I give you a description of our expedition of yesterday. I must tell you that I do not feel at all tired from it; I am a little sleepy, but that can be easily remedied by going to bed early, and Ed. is now busy sketch ing, or rather, finishing up a sketch that he blocked roughly in yesterday. We left Odde at seven o clock and rowed to Tyssedal. There we landed and left some of our wraps in a cottage and started off. It was very pleasant. No sun fortunately, but no rain and our three hours climb proved very enjoyable. We made three halts, principally for me to rest and then arrived at the lake. We got into a boat and rowed up to some falls, very pretty and picturesque. I must not forget to say that all along we had lovely views. 128 ELISE WILLING BALCH. We ascended 1,800 feet and then descended, but not so far. Well, we passed the aforesaid falls, by walking round them and then we reached the lake proper. Again we embarked and then had lunch. We had a beautiful row up the lake passing the Tyssestrenge, a most lovely fall, and then we reached the Skaeggedal. It is very fine, but did not come up to my expectations. Niagara has spoilt me for falls, I fear. After staying there awhile, we rowed back again, had some coffee and started off again on Shank s mare. I found the return walk harder, it did not take so long, but you know that I do not like descents. Ed. helped me very nicely, but declares that I pinched him without mercy: I did grab him whenever I could not get along well. Mr. Durant was very funny to watch: he came last. He is a Frenchman, short and stout, and not used to scrambling, and not liking it, so when he could not get down standing up, down he came on all fours backwards, and we got into fits of laughing, which by no means rendered his footing more secure. When we got down we had a pleasant row back to Odde, where I dressed myself again. We had dinner and then to bed we went. This morning we rose early, at six, and at eight took the steamer hither. Tomorrow we go to the Voringfos, next day to Vossevangen, the following to Gudvangen, on Friday to Laerdal, and on my IN MEMORIAM. 129 birthday to Aardal. Thence our movements are rather uncertain. I will post a letter at Laerdal- soren on Friday, and tell you how we have fared hitherto. I feel quite like a respectable aunt travelling round with some young nephews, for the two young men who are still travelling with us, are one 23 and the other 25, and very boyish in many ways. So shooting is one of the topics the three indulge in. I met a nice old English lady at Odde, unfortunately she left before we did. Did I tell you that Dora Norris wrote to me that old Captain Rodick was dead but the sons continue the house and have raised the board. I do hope that you like Catskill. Oh dear! Oh dear! it is raining again. I hope that it will clear before tomorrow, and now au revoir. ******* ELISE. Gudvangen, on the Nerofjord, 28 July 1881. I greatly fear that you will not be able to read the pencil written part of this letter, still I will send it for it is not often that one writes letters in row boats. Just after I stopped writing, a high wind came up, and instead of six hours we took eight and a half to reach Eide, but it was a glorious row; and when we reached there we had an ex cellent dinner, and then started for Vossevangen. We had a most beautiful drive, over an excellent 130 ELISE WILLING BALCH. road, splendidly engineered and through lovely scenery. There, where we arrived at ten o clock, we got good rooms, and after drinking some good milk, we retired to slumber sweetly, preparatory to an early start this morning. Vossevangen is a pretty little place, and with a quaint old church. But now you have heard everything about the 27th, so I will back and tell you about our expedition to the Voringfos on the 26th and then narrate our experiences of today. 26th. We left Vik at 7 o clock A. M. on foot, walked to a lake, an half an hour distant, there we found a boat and were rowed across in an hour; it was a very pretty row. Then we got horses and started off. I had an excellent little beast, as sure footed as a mule. When almost half way, Ed. decided to walk, so left his horse to await his return; and soon I had to dismount, for we came to some very steep smooth rocks, up which I much preferred going on Shank s mare. I walked for some distance and then remounted and rode a little further; then walked again, and then rode until we reached the Voringfos. There we had lunch and then Ed. started to sketch, whilst I scrambled on further and went so near the fall, that but for my mackintosh I should have been completely drenched. The fos (fall) is very beautiful and owing to the heavy rains, there is quite a large quantity of water in it, and it comes down in an IN MEMORIAM. 131 unbroken leap of over 500 feet. The whole expedi tion, the approaches and the fall itself are more beautiful than that to the Skaeggedalsfos, the color of the water of the latter is more lovely, it being the most exquisite blue, whilst the Voringfos is green. Coming back we stopped at a farm half-way to get some coffee. We returned about a quarter to five, when after resting we had some dinner and then to bed we went. You will have already our experiences with the land lord, so I will not repeat them, but I must tell you that Ed. insisted upon writing something about him in the book at Eide, so I suggested to put "Very comfortable, and a great contrast to the hotel at Vik (Eidfjord)" which he did. It answered two purposes, pleased our landlord at Eide and gave the one at Vik a hit, but no handle. 28th July. We left Vossevangen this morning in a very nice stolkjaere and drove hither. It rained most of the time, but not enough to hurt us, and the drive was beautiful. After passing Opheim, where we had an excellent breakfast or lunch, we came down the most intricate series of zig-zags into the Nerodal, which is simply superb. The rocks are so fine, they tower away up above you, almost shutting you in and are most grand. It is the finest thing that we have seen so far. Ed. declares that it resembles his beloved Ampezzothal and that the 132 ELISE WILLING BALCH. shapes recall the Dolomites, but minus the color. It is wild in the extreme. Here we have two very nice rooms and shall most probably leave tomorrow at six o clock per boat for Laerdal. I have just written to Morgan to send our letters to Copenhagen from and until 15th August and then to Paris. Our movements are rather and I may say decidedly uncertain but we contemplate getting there by 1st September. And I would rather wait for my letters than lose them. I will finish this on the boat to morrow, as I cannot post it until we get to Laerdal and so au revoir for the present. Laerdalsoren, 29 July. We arrived here this morning very comfortably from Gudvangen and have passed the day very comfortably and pleasantly: this afternoon partly in singing and playing the piano and partly in sorting our things preparatory to our start for Aardal tomorrow. Thence we go to the Vettimorkefos on Sunday and on Monday to Eidsbugarden and the Jotunheim lakes where we shall remain until Thurs day, when we come out at Sgostad en route for Kristiania. I shall post this tonight, but shall hardly be able to post again until we reach Kristiania, so do not worry if you have no letter for ten days. Yesterday it was exactly two months since we left home, and tomorrow will be my birthday. I know you will think of me. The sail yesterday down the Naerofjord was superb. It is the most beautiful IN MEMORIAM. 133 fjord excepting the Geiranger that we have seen. And now au revoir. ELISE. On Steamer Olaf Tryggensson on the Rautfjord, 5 August 1881. Again a few hasty pencil line. 6 to tell you of our welfare, so that this may be posted at Kristiania tomorrow. If it could catch the Hull steamer, you would soon have it, but as that is out of the question, I will send it as soon as possible otherwise. My last letter was sent from Laerdal on Saturday last, my birthday, 30th July. We took the steamer and went round the Lyster- fjord and then to Aardal where we spent the night. The next day, 31st July, we first walked and rowed across a lake, then walked, then I rode for an hour and a half. Then I walked again as far as the Gard Vetti. I found a four leaved clover, en route, the first I have ever found. There we did some cooking and slept. The following day, 1 August, we started off at six A. M. to cross the Fleskedal Col. We first ascended for 900 feet, by a path winding up the side of the precipice, and at last came across to the Vettimorkefos, which is most beautiful, by far the finest fos or fall that I have seen in Norway. We gazed at it for a while and then proceeded and went to the Vettimorkesaeter and thence to the 134 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Fleskedalsaeter, where we stopped and ate some corn beef and crackers and drank some brandy and water: then off we went again. As we neared the Col we had some glorious views of the Jotunheim mountains. Just before reaching the top we stopped and made another repast and then on without stopping or ceasing, across rocks, snow fields, etc., until we reached Lake Twyn. There we found a boat and rowed over to Twindehoug, where we found a Turistforening hut, with two rooms and very nice people. Being thoroughly soaked I promptly quitted my dress and shoes and wrapped myself up in blankets and was waited on first by Ed. most diligently with hot wine and then both by him and Mr. Calmeyn with Liebig and supper. We slept famously and awoke to find a very severe gale blow ing. So by one o clock we decided to push on to Opdalstolsaeter, where we arrived about half past seven. Ed. was very nice both days and together with Mr. C. carried me on his ice-axe across three streams. When we reached Opdalstol Ed. and I staid there whilst Mr. C. went on to Skogstad. Next morn ing, August 3, we drove to Skogstad and had breakfast and then drove on to Rhein where we spent the night. Yesterday, 4 August, we drove to Odnaes. Today we are now on a boat and will soon take the rail for Kristi- ania, where we arrive at 9.30. I am the first American lady who has ever crossed the Fleskedalkol : one English, some Swedish and two Norwegian have: IN MEMORIAM. 135 but Ed. did so want to go. And I feel quite right: our plans you shall hear. August 6th. Kristiania. I was obliged to stop on account of landing. We had an excellent dinner and then started in the train for here, where we arrived safe and sound. This morning we got our letters and glad I was to get them, yours until 18th July: also one from Beckie, one from Emily Bradford, one from Elizabeth Koecklin, and one from Miss Meeking: and to hear that you were quite well and that you find Catskill so pleasant. You will be astonished to hear that we leave to morrow morning for Stockholm and shall stay there until Wednesday evening and then go to Copen hagen and then to Liibeck. Thence to Dresden, Prague and Vienna and perhaps to the Dolomites. If we do the latter, we shall stop but a very few days in Paris and London, but I confess I would very much rather spend both my time and money in seeing things than in buying clothes. We have been as busy as bees all day packing and arrang ing things, and have sent the valise to Liver pool to await our arrival there. We did think of Petersburg, but the Czar s life has been attempted again, so we have concluded to go to Copenhagen instead. I will write more from Stockholm. We paid a pleasant visit this afternoon to Mr. and Mrs. Gade: she is exceedingly nice. * * * * ELISE. [A letter is missing here.] 136 ELISE WILLING BALCH. On board S. S. Constantin. Stopping at Abo (pro Ubo) Finland; and en route for Petersburg. 12 Aug. 1881. We remain here until seven o clock this evening, which gives me time to send you a few lines to tell you something further about your two chicks. After posting my letter to you on Wednesday, we went down and had some dinner or rather supper, after which we went for a walk and ended up by stop ping at a cafe and taking some ices and listening to a quite good band. It played several pretty and well known things and ended up by a pot-pourri of Norwegian airs which I was glad to hear. The next morning I slept very late and Ed. painted his Dalecarlian peasant, just her head and shoulders and made a very pretty little picture of her. Then we went for our tickets, changed some English gold for Russian money, and went on a hunt for our consul, as Ed. wanted to send his ice-axe to Liver pool. He found him, whilst I went to the Society that I spoke of to you and saw their work. One woman was making carpets, all hand made. I watched for awhile and she explained and showed me how much she could do in a day. Then I went in to the show room and bought a cravat trimmed with lace made by the peasants and a Dalecarlian cap. Then we wandered round. I met later Mr. and Mme. Morel whom I have spoken of before; they were just returning from a trip to Dalecarlia, IN MEMORIAM. 137 which they had enjoyed; they had seen many costumes. If we had not been going to Petersburg, I should have liked to take a trip there but unfor tunately our time is too short, so it had to be left. Perhaps you and I may go there some time. Mr. and Mme. Morel came to see us off, also Mr. Durant who left at nine by train for Paris, so as to be back to vote on the 21st August. He is an enrage Legitimiste, and when he and Mr. Calmeyn, who is a Clerical begin to talk politics, it is most amusing. But as other nations politics do not interest me, I have not told them what I think, namely that the present struggle is simply a protest against intolerance and a struggle for liberty. Judg ing by everything the papers say, my criticism is correct and Ed. agrees with me. But there is no use in having words about things that one does not care about, so we have refrained from express ing our opinions, but nevertheless we have thought them. Our steamer is a fine one and we are quite com fortable. I have a stateroom with a Finnish lady, who is charming for she goes up on deck at 4 A. M. and lets me dress in peace and quiet and then she arrays herself. Unfortunately we have a cracked basin, so it is rather hard work to dress comfortably, but they have promised another for tomorrow. Ed. has a stateroom with Mr. Calmeyn who decided to go to Petersburg, so he is all right. He has 138 ELISE WILLING BALCH. captured a small girl who came on board to sell flowers, so he is happy drawing her. She is quite pretty and is posing beautifully. We went round the town and saw the old Cathedral and also a fine view from the Observatory. The people here speak Swedish or Finnish, not Russian. Tomorrow we go to Helsingfors and thence by rail to Peters burg. We took some time to get here and came quite a distance up the river to anchor alongside the quay. The town is extremely clean and the people ditto; but some small urchins begged of us, whilst in Norway such a thing is unknown. And now I must stop. I think that you would enjoy this trip, for we go between islands and the sea is as calm as a lake. Last night we were in the open sea for three hours, but I slept, so everything was serene. ******* ELISE. On board S. S. Constantin, In the Port of Helsingfors, Finland. 13 August 1881. We have been all round the town, where we landed earlier than we expected; so whilst waiting for dinner for Ed. wants to paint one of the churches here, and I cannot very well wander about alone I thought that I would just jot down a few lines to tell you our impressions of Helsingfors. We greatly regret that we did not know that we should IN MEMORIAM. 139 arrive at Abo in time to take the midday train for Petersburg it is not always done but we did it and had we known it, we could have been in Petersburg now; as it is we shall not get there until tomorrow morning. Yesterday I entered into conversation with quite a good looking American lady on board and in the evening, I found that she was Miss Stuart. Do you remember General and Mrs. Ward (he was Congressman from New York) who had the Stockton house on H. street, the winter we were in Washington, and Mrs. Ward s pretty daughter, Miss Stuart? She had a cousin and a friend, Miss Brown, staying with her. The lady I speak of, now Mrs. Hurt [or Huet] was her cousin, and she remembered me and I her. She is very nice. Her husband is a good deal older than her self. She told me in the afternoon, before we found out that we had met before, that she had heard of Ed. and myself nine or ten times in Norway, lastly from Mrs. Morel and that we had excited great curiosity and wonder as to whether we were Ameri cans or French. At Eide, my blue dress and felt hat were even described to her. I had no idea that we had attracted so much attention, but I suppose that one young lady and three young men did give people something to wonder at. We are going on to Petersburg tonight in the same train. There are also some other Americans on board with two of whom I had an amusing little exper- 140 ELISE WILLING BALCH. ience in Stockholm. I had gone to the apothecary to get some rose water, and they came in and gave a prescription to be made up. Then one asked for prepared chalk. The boy gazed at her. So she turned to me and asked me if I would ask for it, and when I said that I did not know what it was (meaning in Swedish) she began to say "pre-pa-red chalk; me-di-ci-na-ted chalk. I use it for my face." And then calmly and baldly asked: "Are you Norwegian?" You may imagine my answer, a short, curt "No." She then resumed: "Are these people Norwegian?" "Swedes" was my answer. Then I waited in silence for my rose water, which I got and paid for, wondering all the time how I was to ask for prepared chalk in Swed ish. Finally I began a conversation half German half Norsk with the boy, which ended in our both saying "Jey vedder ikke," i. e., I do not know. Just at that moment there appeared the head himself. The lady addressed herself to him and he answered in French, when immediately seeing my way clear, I spoke to him and told him that she wanted "craie." This seemed to puzzle him, so I asked if he had a dictionary. He produced a French and Swedish one; I found the word and went on my way rejoicing. On the steamer I have not spoken to them, they are not prepossessing. The Finnish lady, my cabin passenger, asked me all sorts of questions and ended up by telling me IN MEMORIAM. 141 one of her godsons was in the Baldwin works in Philadelphia; then she gave me some useful in formation about Helsingfors. We went to see the Greek Church, which is being restored, also the Lutheran which is very impressive, very simple and very churchy; over the altar there is a fine paint ing. Then we went to the Ethnographical Collec tion, where we saw the tomb of an old bishop, some interesting costumes and other curiosities. Then to the Museum of Natural History, where we staid quite a while and then to the Sculptures, which consisted of plaster casts of some of the antiques. Then we wandered round a little more and re turned to the steamer, where I have been writing to you for nearly an hour, and at three we are going to dine. There is a drive to be taken from here, but as the day is rather gray and Ed. wants to sketch, we thought that we would not take it, but reserve our money and energy for Petersburg. We are quite well and anticipate much pleasure from our stay there. This letter I will take on and add to it tomorrow and then send it to you. It probably will reach you almost as soon as my yesterday s letter, but W. will like having as many stamps as possible. I have just heard some people who went to see the barracks say that there was malachite let in to the walls and that the soldiers who were eating their dinner were eating raw fish in their fingers: all northern nations seem to enjoy 142 ELISE WILLING BALCH. a fish diet. Did I tell you that at Upsala we met a student who was very polite and helped us and who told us that the law course there was six years this was his last and he was busy reading Mr. Carey s work on Political Economy. St. Petersburg, 14 August 1881. Here we are at last and I can hardly believe it. This is a wonderfully fine city. Great broad streets, very clean, and fine houses. We are at the Hotel de 1 Europe, just opposite St. Isaac s church, which we went to see this afternoon. It is most beautiful, immense, with four fine malachite and two lapis lazuli columns sustaining the golden doors; and numerous paintings, some surrounded with precious stones. But I must go back and tell you. We came on very comfortably in the sleeping cars. Ed. and I had a compartment to ourselves and we both slept splendidly. We had some supper last night for which we had rather a scramble and a cup of tea this morning which enabled us on our arrival here to dress and drive out to the Monastery of St. Alexander Nevsky where we heard the service, with some fine boy voices. Then we came back, had some breakfast and were off again, in a car riage. We went to the place where the Czar Alex ander II. was assassinated they have erected a small chapel there and the Russians as they stop cross themselves and say a prayer. Then we went to see the golden carriages; although it was Sun- IN MEMORIAM. 143 day a silver rouble gained an admittance for us, and we saw all the old and new vehicles. The sleighs are beautiful: we saw a covered one built by Peter the Great into which I got: the windows were isinglass, it was lined with green, and was quite comfortable. Then we went to see the house that he built and the boat that his imperial hands constructed. At the house there is a chapel and there we saw a most curious sight: all the people on their knees and pressing near to the image of the Saviour at the end of the room. Here his image appears everywhere, the Virgin does not hold the place that she does in the Roman Catholic Church and the people are very devout. Now must I stop, for we are going to the English Church for evening service. ******* ELISE. St. Petersburg, 16 August 1881. I stopped on Sunday in my enunciation of the sights we had seen to go to church, where we heard an excellent sermon, and it is rather hard to remem ber where I left off; so I will just tell you about our yesterday s employment and trust that the rest will come back to me. On Monday whilst waiting for our passports which had to be sent to the Police office, we went to the banker s, where I drew 2000 francs; then we got our documents and started for 144 ELISE WILLING BALCH. the Hermitage. There we saw the far-famed col lection of pictures. I do not like it near as much as the Dresden gallery, but still there are some beautiful things there: some lovely Murillos and Van Dycks, and also Rembrandts, a superb por trait by Raphael and his Vierge de THermitage. We also saw some superb old golden jewelry and bronzes and engravings, and tore ourselves away with regret, but we wanted to see Tzarskoe Selo. So we had to take the train. Thither we drove and to Tzarskoe Selo repaired. We got a carriage and drove through the park to the Arsenal, where we saw some very fine armor and other curiosities including the most wonderful Tatar gong: when struck the sound gradually swelled. Do not im agine it to be anything like the barbaric sounds that awake, or rather, try to awake us at Bar Harbor. This was real music, and very beautiful, so deep and full. Then we drove round and saw the palaces. Catherine IFs, or as they call her here, Ekaterina, is very imposing in its barbaric mag nificence; we could not go in, as they are re arranging it. The grounds are beautiful and full of queer and odd fancies. Then we drove to Pav- lossk, where we saw another palace and where we dined very nicely at a restaurant. Afterwards we heard an excellent band play and we returned to Petersburg in good spirits. I do not speak of all the statues, etc., that we have seen. The monu- IN MEMORIAM. 145 ment to the Emperor Alexander I, in front of the Winter Palace, is the finest. 18th Aug. We are off to Moscow in half an hour, but I will scribble a few more lines to tell you of yesterday. We went early in the morning to the Academy of Arts where we saw some very fine modern paintings, some with gorgeous colorings. Then Ed. paid a pleasant visit to Colonel Hoffman, who came to see us last night. Then we went off to Peterhof by steamer. It was very interesting to go down the Neva and see Petersburg with its domes gradually recede. Then we drove round, saw Catherine II s palace and several others, in cluding Monplaisir, where we saw the kitchen, where the Empress Elizabeth cooked her dinner. And now I must off. ******* ELISE. Moscow, 20 August, 1881. Since I last wrote to you from Petersburg, three or four days since, I have not slept in a bed; to night, I shall have that pleasure, and then probably not again, until I reach Vienna; for we have decided to go there from Warsaw via Cracow, so as to see the salt mines. We leave here tomorrow at mid night for Warsaw, where we shall arrive on Tues day; we therefore spend two nights on the cars, but I am now so accustomed to sleeping in them I do not care. On Wednesday night we came here 146 ELISE WILLING BALCH. from Petersburg, very comfortably, for thanks to Ed s running round and through the assistance of the hotel porter, we got a sleeper compartment with four berths; and, as we were three, no one else was put in, so I had no one over me, and slept very nicely. When we got here, I made a hurried toilet and then we breakfasted and took a carriage and went off round the town and also off to Sparrow Hills, whence Napoleon surveyed Moskva. Then we drove all round and finally started for Nidjni-Novgorod at 9.30. There were no sleepers, but I got a small compartment for two all to my self, and Ed. and Mr. Calmeyn had four seats that drew together in a communicating compartment, in which was also a very nice Russian gentleman who spoke French very well and who lent me a pillow on which I slept beautifully; and he did the same coming back, so I was most splendidly off: was he not kind? We almost went to Kazan down the Volga, but Ed. was afraid that we should then not have time for Vienna, so we concluded not to go to Kazan. The fair at Nidjni is very curious, and the town itself is very prettily situated. We took a row on the Volga. As I am writing rather post haste, I must leave a good deal to tell you until we get home. Moskva is most curious and interesting. We went all round the Kremlin today, the palace and the churches. The Assumption is very beautiful IN MEMORIAM. 147 and all decorated with paintings. We saw the Vladimir Virgin, as she is called, on which is 45,000 of diamonds and precious stones and very beautiful ones too. It is the church where the Tzars are crowned, or rather crown themselves. Our way of sight seeing would rather amuse you, I think. After seeing a certain quantity of sights, both the men get tired and propose strolling around. How ever, it is most interesting to do so here, and when I have Ed. all to myself as I shall when we leave Warsaw, I shall do more as I like. Ed. bought a Circassian belt today and I one also, a small one very pretty which I think of sending to Grace Balch, and eighteen Circassian silver buttons to put on a dress waist; they are not very large but quite pretty and will look well on either pink or blue. Now I must say goodnight. I will send a postal from Warsaw. Hurrah! to think that one week from tomorrow we shall sail for home. ******* ELISE. Moscow, 21 August 1881. We concluded to remain here until tonight, for we thought, or rather I did, that it was rather a pity not to see Moscow (Moskva) thoroughly. Ed. was quite ready as he wanted some sketches. He has been at work all the morning, and has made a lovely one of St. Basil, the quaint old church near 148 ELISE WILLING BALCH. the Kremlin and begun one of the Kremlin walls which he is going to finish. I meanwhile went to see the Treasury, where I saw some beautiful crowns of jewels belonging to the various Tzars and some magnificent old plate, and the Romanoff House with Mr. Calmeyn. Then wandering through the Bazaar (private now) we came upon a Russia leather store it was a wholesale place but by dint of persuasion I managed to buy two pairs of uppers for boots for W. Please do not tell him for they are to be a grand surprise : Roller can make them up and they will be famous for bad weather. They are safely packed away in my trunk and will now travel to Austria. I know that the young man will be charmed and you too: one pair can be made up immediately and the other put away until needed. I am going back there in a little while to buy Ed. a yellow pair. Those I got for W. are black and waterproof, whilst Ed. wants a pair of yellow ones for house wear. Everything in my trunk will smell of Russia leather now, but I do not care. Yesterday Ed. and I went in the morning to the Cathedral of the Assumption to hear service. Some of the singing was lovely, the voices were so sweet, all without any accompaniment. Afterwards we went into several of the other churches, and after lunch Ed. began his sketch of St. Basil, whilst I went off to wander round by myself. I went up IN MEMORIAM. 149 into the Kremlin, when a small boy offered himself as guide. I followed and ascended some steps when I found myself in a church, or rather at the door of one guarded by a soldier. The urchin proceeded, so I went on up some more stairs, past another soldier and into a room where I found a priest robed in black satin, with flowing sleeves lined with a reddish brown, who was starting to lead two officers and a small boy round the sights of the Sacristy, as it turned out to be. He made some polite speech to me in Russian, to which, alas, I could not respond, so I said in German "Konnen sie Deusch sprechen?" "Nyet, nyet," "no, no," was the answer, "Rusk." But then he motioned me to follow and I, nothing loath, complied. To make a long story short, as I am soon to get ready for dinner, we went in to the Sacristy where I saw the robes worn by the various Patriarchs all covered with pearls and embroidery: also their crowns glittering with jewels and their silver: also the silver vessels in which the Holy Oil is made with which they baptize children. They were all given by Catherine II, or Ekaterina as her name is in Russian: on the lid of one is Samuel anointing David in gold figures. When I turned to leave after having seen all, he gave me a small pamphlet in Russian relating to the robes that I had seen. I found my guide, viz. the small urchin outside: he led me to the Chapel below, where a polite old 150 ELISE WILLING BALCH. verger took charge of me and showed me round. Then I went in search of Ed. I found him very happy, sketching busily away. When he had finished, we went up Ivan s tower and had a very fine view of Moscow. Then we returned to dinner, not a table d hote, for they do not have them in Russia. One takes a dinner for so much, and they are generally very good. The cuisine here is excellent, the rooms are rather dear, but not the food. ******* ELISE. There are no more letters remaining about this trip. From Moscow we went to Warsaw, to Krakow, to Wielitza and the salt mines, to Vienna, Munich, Berne, Interlaken, Grindelwald, Lausanne, Dijon, Orleans, Blois, Amboise, Tours, Chartres, Paris, Ricquebourg (the chateau of Mrs. John J. Ridgway) London and Liverpool. We returned on the Ameri can Line S. S. Ohio, reaching home on 3 October. 1894. I add here one other letter to myself, written in Germany. Hamburg v. d. Hohe, June 17ih, 1894- M. and I both began taking the waters this morn ing. We went last evening to see "Le Postillion de Longjumeau," very nicely sung by the Darm- IN MEMORIAM. 151 stadt Opera troupe: we paid five marks for our two places. We thought of you and W. starting from New York and wished you a bon voyage in every sense of the word. We have a gay situation here: just opposite the Kurhaus and the Kurgarten, so we can hear the music in the after noon and watch the people walking about. We shall not travel a great deal after we leave here, but shall take our trip across France, early in August. And if you and W. are through with the mountains you might meet us in Holland perhaps for a few days before crossing to England and then you could see Bruges and Ghent at the same time. Bruges you will both like and by taking a little carriage- two francs an hour you can get such a good idea of the old medieval town. The Memling pictures are wonderfully fine, they and the tombs in the Church of Notre Dame, and the Cheminee du Franc, in the Palais de Justice, are what you and W. would like most: they are all near each other. But the old gates and the quaint houses and the views of the town can be best seen by driving. At Ghent, the Van Eyck and the Beguinage are the chief features and you and W. would not have to spend the night there, unless you stopped at Anvers to see the Exposition. " Vieil Anvers 7 is interesting but Chicago has spoilt me for ordinary Expositions. ******* ELISE. ELISE WILLING BALCH IN MEMORIAM. 153 VI. LAST DAYS. During her early life, my sister enjoyed robust health and was seldom sick. One of her rare ill nesses occurred on her visit to Italy in 1871, when she had an attack of what was then called Roman fever. In her later years, however, she suffered a good deal from gout, which was counteracted to some extent by repeated visits to Homburg vor-der- Hohe, to drink Elizabeth water. In the last year or two of her life, she began to show symptoms of heart trouble which towards the beginning of April, 1913, became acute. She failed more and more after this and to escape the heat of Philadelphia, about the 20th of June, 1913, she was taken to the Chestnut Hill Hospital, where at 4.10 P. M. on Monday, 23 June, 1913, she gently passed away. She was buried in the " Swift" lot, Trinity Church, Oxford, Philadelphia, at 12 M. on Thursday, 26 June, 1913, and the enormous number of her friends who attended her funeral, where the services were conducted by the Rev. Horace W. Fuller, Rector of the church, showed how much she was thought of. The announcement of my sister s decease appeared on 24 June, 1913, in the Philadelphia newspapers, Inquirer, Public Ledger, Press, Record and Evening Telegraph as follows: 154 ELISE WILLING BALCH. "BALCH, June 23, Elise Willing, daughter of Emily Swift and the late Thomas Balch, in the 60th year of her age. Services at Trinity Church, Oxford, Thursday, June 26, at 12 noon." Many notices about her decease also appeared in various newspapers, among which were the follow ing: PUBLIC LEDGER. Philadelphia, Tuesday, June %4i 1913. Miss Elise Willing Balch, daughter of Mrs. Thomas Balch, who formerly was Miss Emily Swift, one of the foremost women of Philadelphia society, a leading philanthropist and a patron of music, died in the Chestnut Hill Hospital yesterday after noon, after an illness of two weeks. * * * Several months ago Miss Balch became ill from grip, which impaired her health for many weeks. The effects never entirely left her, and a little more than two weeks ago she became a patient in the hospital. She and her family expected her recovery and she had engaged apartments in Cape May, planning to go there to recuperate. Usually the family spent the summer on the Massachusetts North Shore. It was on account of her indisposition that Miss Balch was unable to attend the unveiling of the New Jersey monument at Valley Forge, in which as an officer of the Daughters of the American Revolution she had expected to be an active participant. IN MEMORIAM. 155 Thomas Balch, Miss Balch s father, was an at torney, practicing in this city until his death. He was born in Virginia, but the family came from Mary land. The Swift family, a member of which he mar ried after settling here, is prominent in Philadel phia. The Willing family is a close branch of the Swifts. All members of the family, in both this city and New York, trace back to a common ances tor, Thomas Willing. * * * Funeral services will be held on Thursday from Trinity Church, Oxford, at noon. THE PRESS. Philadelphia, Pa., Tuesday, June 24, 1913. Miss Elise Willing Balch, a member of a family which for years has been prominently identified with movements for the welfare of Philadelphia, died yesterday in the Chestnut Hill Hospital after a brief illness. Miss Balch was a leader in Philadelphia s exclusive society and was active in the affairs of the Acorn and Sedgeley Clubs, the Colonial Dames of America and other organizations. * * * For years she was a patron of grand opera. Her mother, who survives, attended the first oper atic production in the Academy of Music and missed few performances since. Miss Balch gen erally accompanied her parent in later years. * * * 156 ELISE WILLING BALCH. Her father, a native of Virginia, who married Miss Emily Swift in this city in 1852, and achieved promi nence at the New York and Philadelphia bars, was the first American who advocated arbitration as a means to settle international disputes. Miss Balch was in her sixtieth year. The funeral will be held in Trinity Church, Oxford, at twelve noon, Thursday. THE EVENING BULLETIN. Philadelphia, Pa., Tuesday, June 24, 1913. Miss Elise Willing Balch died yesterday afternoon at the Chestnut Hill Hospital after an illness of two weeks. Her death comes as a shock to her family and large circle of friends in this city. Born nearly sixty years ago in Philadelphia, she was the daughter of the late Thomas Balch, her mother being Miss Emily Swift, daughter of the late Joseph Swift, and niece of the late Edwin Swift. Her father was a Virginian by birth, but his family came originally from Maryland. He was a lawyer by profession, and achieved prominence at the New York and Philadelphia bars and was the first Ameri can to advocate arbitration as a means to settle international disputes. For many years Mr. Balch and his family lived abroad, and while there formed the acquaintance of many distinguished in the world of Art and Letters. IN MEMORIAM. 157 Miss Balch was extremely prominent in the social life of this city. She was one of the early members of the original Society of the Colonial Dames of America, and also a member of the Acorn and Sedgeley Clubs. She was a great patron of music. Through her mother s family Miss Balch was a descendant of Thomas Willing, and was closely connected with many families of distinction in this city and abroad. The funeral will take place on Thursday at 12 o clock at Trinity Church, Oxford, and the interment will be in the church yard of that venerable parish, where for several generations members of the Swift family have been buried. PUBLIC LEDGER. Philadelphia, Wednesday, June 25, 1913. The death of Miss Elise Willing Balch on Monday, after a brief illness, came with somewhat of a shock. While no longer a young woman, Miss Balch had been actively engaged in many social and musical interests, and those activities continued to the last. She lived with her mother and her brother, Thomas Willing Balch, at 1412 Spruce Street. * * * Miss Balch was one of the organizers of the Phila delphia Society of the Colonial Dames of America, of which Mrs. George McClellan is the president, and of which she was the secretary. She also was an ardent supporter of * * * musical organiza tions. She was one of the most regular attendants 158 ELISE WILLING BALCH. of grand opera wherever given, being a true lover of music. In her youth she was herself a musician. Indeed, she was a most accomplished woman. She had been given every advantage of travel abroad and was an admirable linguist, speaking French and German with equal facility, and possessing besides a convenient knowledge of other languages. She was a member of the Acorn Club and a member of the * * * Sedgeley Club. Not only had she many friends, but she was one of the few of whom it may be said truly that she had no enemy. A courteous, kindly lady of gentle birth and breed ing, without malice and without reproach, a devoted daughter and sister, she lived her pleasant, peace ful, useful life like a gentlewoman of the old school, and died regretted by many. THE PRESS. Philadelphia, Pa., Friday, June 27, 1913. The funeral of Miss Elise W. Balch, a member of a prominent Philadelphia family, who died on Mon day in the Chestnut Hill Hospital, was held yester day at noon in the Trinity Church, Oxford. The services were conducted by Rev. Dr. Fuller, pastor of the church. Burial was made in the churchyard surrounding the church. The church was filled to its doors during the funeral services. Many handsome floral pieces were presented. IN MEMORIAM. 159 INQUIRER. Philadelphia, Pa., Jun. 29, 1913. Members of society were much surprised and grieved when they learned of the death of Miss Elise Willing Balch, daughter of Mrs. Thomas Balch and the late Thomas Balch. Miss Balch was prominent in the social life of the city. She was one of the original members of the Society of Arts and Letters and was a Colonial Dame. During the winter Miss Balch, with her mother and brothers, resided at 1412 Spruce Street. They entertained every night at the opera in their box at the Academy of Music, and later at the Metropolitan Opera House. Miss Balch was a member of the Assembly. PUBLIC LEDGER. Philadelphia, Sunday, June 29, 1913. Little else was spoken of last week besides the death of Miss Elise Willing Balch, which occurred on the 23d at the Chestnut Hill Hospital. She was related to so many prominent families and had so many friends that her unexpected death caused something like consternation. Her father, Thomas Balch, was an eminent man. * * * To him belongs the credit for the first suggestion that led to the establishment of the Geneva tribunal, and he laid his views before President Lincoln, who approved the plan. He was one of the founders 160 ELISE WILLING BALCH. of the Philadelphia Cricket Club and the Ritten- house Club and published many interesting papers, notably "The Shippen Papers/ Mrs. Balch, who was Miss Swift, is related to the Shippens. Her grandmother was Mary Shippen, who married Samuel Swift in 1793. Both she and her husband are buried at Trinity Church, Oxford township, where Miss Balch was buried on Thursday last. The son of Mary and Samuel Swift, Joseph Swift, married Eliza Willing in 1831, who was the mother of Mrs. Balch. Miss Balch was highly accomplished. She was a good musician, and when German opera was given she was apt to carry with her the score and to follow the singers as they sang, controlling their rendition of the Wagnerian thought. She was also an excellent linguist. Her interests were largely musical. * * * Her mother had subscribed to opera ever since the Academy of Music was built. She was secretary of the Colonial Dames of America, the Philadelphia branch of which she helped to or ganize, taking an earnest part in the difficulties that followed, both with the New York Dames in the beginning of the organization and from time to time later on with the rival society. Recently she and her mother gave a "tea" at Valley Forge to which many were invited outside of the society. It was then that her illness overtook her. She was unable to be present at her own party, and IN MEMOKIAM. 161 Mrs. Balch alone did the honors of the occasion. She never was well again. The family were unable to occupy the rooms they had engaged for June at Devon Inn. Two weeks before her death she had to be taken to the hospital where she died. The funeral on Thursday was a notable one, as many people turned out whom one rarely sees. CLUB-FELLOW. New York, July 2, 1913. Elise Willing Balch s death on Monday night threw a damper over all society. Miss Balch had such a delightful personality that she endeared her self to all. She was nearly sixty years old and had been a prominent figure in society for many years. She and her mother attended every opera and every assembly and entertained a lot in a dignified un ostentatious way. The Balch home is 1412 Spruce Street and it was there that Miss Balch resided with her mother, Mrs. Thomas Balch, who survives her, and her brother, Mr. Thomas Willing Balch. An other brother is Mr. Edwin Swift Balch. Miss Balch had been ill with the grippe for some time, but her death was very unexpected, and was a great shock to her many friends. She was an active member of the Acorn and Sedgeley Clubs, the Colonial Dames of America and other exclusive organizations. 162 ELISE WILLING BALCH. On my sister s tombstone at Trinity Church, Oxford, Philadelphia, the following inscription was placed: IN MEMORY OF ELISE WILLING BALGH DAUGHTER OF THOMAS BALCH AND EMILY SWIFT BALCH BORN AT "WOODFIELD" PHILADELPHIA, 30 JULY, 1853. DIED AT CHESTNUT HILL, PHILADELPHIA 23 JUNE, 1913 "MANY DAUGHTERS HAVE DONE VIRTUOUSLY, BUT THOU EXCELLEST THEM ALL" PROVERBS 31, XXIX. 355044 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY