WILLIAM CALLOW
 
 IN THE SAME SERIES 
 EACH 2OS. NET 
 
 BIRKET FOSTER 
 
 Bv H. M. CUNDALL, I.S.O., F.S.A. 
 
 Containing 150 Reproductions of the Artist's 
 
 Work, 73 of which are Full-Page and in 
 
 Colour. 
 
 KATE GREENAWAY 
 
 BV 
 
 M. H. SPIELMANN 
 
 AND 
 
 G. S. LAYARD 
 
 Containing 80 Full -Page Reproductions of 
 the Artist's Work, 53 of which are in Colour. 
 Also numerous Smaller Sketches in the Text. 
 
 GEORGE MORLAND 
 
 BY 
 
 SIR WALTER GILBEY, BART. 
 
 AND 
 
 E. D. CUMING 
 
 Containing 50 Full-Page Reproductions in 
 Colour of the Artist's Work. 
 
 JOHN PETT1E 
 
 BY 
 
 MARTIN HARDIE 
 
 Containing 50 Full-Page Reproductions in 
 
 Colour of the Artist's Work. 
 
 AGENTS 
 
 AMERICA . . . THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK 
 
 AUSTRALASIA . THE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS, MELBOURNE 
 
 CANADA . . . THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD. 
 27 RICHMOND STREET WEST, TORONTO 
 
 INDIA . . . MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. 
 
 MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY 
 
 309 Bow BAZAAR STREET. CALCUTTA
 
 Wm. Colet, Watford. 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW, B.W.S., F.B.G.S. 
 AT THK AGE OF EIGHTY-SIX.
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 R.W.S., F.R.G.S. 
 
 AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 H. M. CUNDALL, I.S.O., F.S.A. 
 
 LONDON 
 
 ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 
 1908 
 
 (
 
 DEDICATED 
 
 TO 
 MY DEAR WIFE LOUIE 
 
 IN RECOGNITION OF 
 
 HER DEVOTION AND LOVING CARE OF ME 
 
 DURING OUR TWENTY-FOUR YEARS 
 
 OF HAPPY MARRIED LIFE
 
 -. - 
 
 . 
 
 -:> 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 IT was originally intended that I should assist 
 Mr. William Callow in writing his autobiography, 
 but it was decreed otherwise. 
 
 Fortunately for the purpose of this book Mr. 
 Callow wrote minute diaries whilst on his early 
 walking tours to the Pyrenees, in Switzerland, and 
 in Italy, and for a long period he kept notes of 
 the principal events of his life. These notes, on 
 account of his failing sight, Mrs. Callow read out 
 to him during the long winter's evenings, and 
 owing to his wonderful memory he was enabled to 
 recall the various episodes in his career, which 
 Mrs. Callow carefully wrote down as he recounted 
 
 Vll
 
 VI 11 
 
 them. She had barely completed her task before 
 Mr. Callow passed away in the early part of the 
 present year. All that I have done has been to 
 put the events of the long and eventful life of 
 this noted water-colour painter into a chronological 
 and readable form, and without the very cordial 
 assistance given to me by his widow my portion 
 of the work would have been in vain. 
 
 Hearty thanks are due to the various owners of 
 his paintings, who have been so good as to allow 
 them to be reproduced for the purpose of illustrat- 
 ing this book. The water-colour painting of the 
 Interior of St. Mary's Church, Richmond, York- 
 shire, was kindly lent by Miss E. Ponsonby 
 M'Ghee for reproduction. This lady has since 
 presented it to the Royal Society of Painters in 
 Water-Colours, in order that it may be added to 
 their collection of works of deceased members of 
 the Society, as a mark of her great appreciation 
 of the genius of William Callow. 
 
 The small illustrations inserted in the text have 
 all been selected from the large number of pencil 
 drawings and sketch-books which were in the 
 artist's possession at the time of his death. 
 
 H. M. CUNDALL. 
 
 October 1908.
 
 .. - 
 
 MONT ST. MICHEL. 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 IN MEMORIAM ....... 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 BOYHOOD ..... 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 PARIS ........ 
 
 CHAPTER m 
 
 WALKING TOUR THROUGH THE SOUTH OF FRANCE 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 LIFE IN PARIS (continued) .... 
 
 IN LONDON 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 IX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 vii 
 xi 
 
 XV 
 
 9 
 
 31 
 
 61 
 
 85 
 b
 
 x WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 ( 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN . . . . . . .111 
 
 LIST OF WATER-COLOUR PAINTINGS EXHIBITED AT THE 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY OF PAINTERS IN WATER-COLOURS . 149 
 
 OIL PAINTINGS EXHIBITED AT THE ROYAL ACADEMY . 171 
 
 OIL PAINTINGS EXHIBITED AT THE BRITISH INSTITUTION . 173 
 
 INDEX . .175
 
 I T '1.3 . . i M , ' 
 
 ST. VALERY EN CAUX. 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 IN COLOUR 
 
 OWNER OK ORIGINAL FACING PACK 
 
 1. St. Mary's Church, Rich- 
 
 mond, Yorkshire before 
 
 Restoration . . . Royal Society of Painters 
 
 in Water-Colours . 108 
 
 2. Hastings, Fishing-Boats 
 
 Early Morning (1889) . H. F. Pooley, Esq. 
 
 3. Entrance to the Harbour, 
 
 Dover (1886) . . Roger Gaskell, Esq. 
 
 4. Notre Dame, Paris (1835) . Mrs. Callow . 
 
 5. Rue de la Grosse Horloge, 
 
 Rouen (1895) . . E. Lazenby Liberty, Esq. 
 xi 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 16 
 
 26
 
 Xll 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 6. In the High Street, South- 
 
 ampton (1888) 
 
 7. Wimbledon 
 
 8. Fishing Boats off the coast 
 
 of France 
 
 9- The Market- Place, Malines 
 (1884) 
 
 10. Riva del Schiavoni, Venice 
 
 (1894) .... 
 
 11. London from Holly Lodge, 
 
 Highgate (1841) . 
 
 12. Entrance to the Port of 
 
 Havre (1898) 
 
 13. The Grand Place, Bruges, 
 
 Market Day (1891) 
 
 14. The Cathedral, Antwerp 
 
 (1895) .... 
 
 15. Old Bridge, Nuremberg 
 
 16. Innsbruck. From an oil 
 
 painting 
 
 17. The Belfry at Bruges (1882) 
 
 18. Tours .... 
 
 19. Sketch in Potsdam Palace 
 
 with figure added by 
 the Empress Frederick 
 of Germany (1863) 
 
 20. A Street in Innsbriick 
 
 21. Potsdam (1874) 
 
 22. Dunster Castle (1847) 
 
 OWNER OF ORIGINAL FACING PAGE 
 
 James Solomon, Esq. . 30 
 
 Mrs. Callow. . . 62 
 
 Miss Hankey . . 64 
 
 Sir Thomas Barlow, Bart. 70 
 
 A. C. Allan, Esq. . . 80 
 
 Mrs. Callow ... 86 
 
 . . 88 
 Victoria and Albert 
 
 Museum ... 90 
 
 Miss McGhee . . 94 
 
 E. Guy Datvber, Esq. . 96 
 
 Mrs. Callow . 
 Miss Talbol . 
 Mrs. Calloiv . 
 
 Miss McGhee 
 Mrs. Callow . 
 Mrs. Nelson . 
 
 102 
 106 
 114 
 
 128 
 134 
 138 
 144
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Xlll 
 
 IN BLACK AND WHITE 
 
 OWNZR OF ORIGINAL FACING PAGE 
 
 1. William Callow, R.W.S., F.R.G.S., 
 
 at the age of Eighty-Six. From a 
 Photograph by Mr. William Coles' 
 
 2. Chateau d'Amboise (1836) 
 
 3. Tours (1836) 
 
 4. Piazza delle Erbe, Verona (1840) 
 
 5. Riva dei Schiavoni, Venice (1840) . 
 
 6. The Firs, Great Missenden. From a 
 
 Photograph by Mr. William Coles 
 
 7. Facsimiles of the names of places 
 
 near Rosenau written by Queen 
 Victoria as being suitable for 
 sketching ..... 
 
 8. Congratulatory Address from the 
 
 Royal Society of Painters in 
 Water- Colours on his attaining 
 his Ninetieth Birthday 
 9- Medals awarded at Exhibitions in 
 France ..... 
 10. Twenty -two smaller Illustrations, 
 mostly reproduced from Pencil 
 Drawings in William Callow's 
 Sketch-books, throughout the 
 Text 
 
 . Frontispiece 
 
 Mrs. Callow . 34 
 
 . 36 
 
 ,, - 76 
 t> 78 
 
 120 
 
 Mrs. Callow 122,123 
 
 Mrs. 
 
 Mrs. 
 
 Calloiv . 146 
 Callow . 148 
 
 Mrs. Callow.
 
 <r 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 flfcemorfam 
 
 To few it is vouchsafed the privilege of leading 
 such a long and eventful life as that enjoyed by 
 William Callow. He lived in the reigns of five 
 Sovereigns. He commenced early in the nine- 
 teenth century, when only a boy of eleven years 
 of age, to gain his own livelihood by practising 
 the rudiments of art, and continued his artistic 
 career uninterruptedly until well into the begin- 
 ning of the present century. 
 
 William Callow was descended from an old 
 eastern counties family, originally called de Calewe, 
 and his grandfather, John Callow, born in 1750, 
 
 XV
 
 xvi WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 was an artist engaged in the decoration of porce- 
 lain at the Lowestoft factory. 
 
 There was about William Callow a peculiar 
 charm of naturalness, which made him to be 
 beloved even by those who were brought into 
 contact with him only once. He was possessed 
 of a serenely beautiful countenance and a fine 
 and imposing presence, accompanied by great 
 courtliness of manner. This latter quality was 
 doubtless to a certain extent inborn in his nature, 
 and it was brought to a condition almost of perfec- 
 tion during the long period of his attachment to 
 the Court of King Louis Philippe and other 
 Royal personages with whom he was brought in 
 contact both in Paris and Potsdam. His habits 
 of life were of the simplest character, and in 
 Buckinghamshire, where for so many years he 
 made his home, he was greatly beloved by all who 
 knew him. 
 
 He possessed a remarkably strong physique, 
 and during his last years it was his custom to 
 walk five or more miles each morning, unaided 
 by a stick, which he vehemently rejected. Even 
 until the very day on which he was attacked by 
 his fatal illness he had enjoyed this daily exercise. 
 
 His memory was wonderfully clear up to the
 
 IN MEMORIAM xvii 
 
 last, and he was able to entertain his friends by 
 recounting many interesting events in his early 
 life with the greatest fluency. As a conversa- 
 tionalist he had few equals. His presence at a 
 dinner-party was always sufficient to ensure its 
 success by his never-ending source of anecdotes 
 and witticisms, which entertained the whole party 
 and kept them in a state of merriment. In fact, 
 it is said that in the neighbourhood of Great 
 Missenden no hostess settled the date of her 
 dinner-party until she had assured herself that 
 Mr. Callow could be present. With the excep- 
 tion of a failing sight, which unfortunately de- 
 prived him of the power of continuing to depict 
 the scenes which he had visited, coupled with a 
 slight deafness, few would have guessed that he 
 had entered his ninety -sixth year. 
 
 He had an intense love for good music. During 
 his early days in Paris he frequently visited the 
 Opera, where he heard all the greatest artistes of 
 the time, and later, by his first marriage, he 
 became connected with some of the finest 
 musicians in this country. 
 
 With his gentle nature he greatly resented 
 any cruelty to dumb creatures, and the brutal 
 treatment of horses, which he frequently wit-
 
 xviii WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 nessed in Italy, filled him with horror. He had 
 an intense love for birds, and in his own garden 
 they became so accustomed to him and so tame 
 that they would often perch on an arm of the 
 chair in which he was seated. 
 
 Owing to the rough cobble-stones with which 
 the streets of Paris were paved when William 
 Callow first resided there, he acquired a habit of 
 looking on the ground whilst walking, in order 
 to see where to tread. The result was that he 
 was frequently so fortunate as to find money and 
 valuable articles on the ground. In Paris he 
 once picked up a gold watch and chain for which 
 he was never able to find an owner, but the most 
 important incident of this nature occurred about 
 six years previous to his death. Whilst walking 
 along the parade of a well-known seaside resort 
 he espied two small linen bags attached together 
 by a string. On examining the contents one was 
 found to contain a pocket-book in which were 
 stocks and shares amounting to about three 
 thousand pounds as well as several bank-notes, 
 whilst in the other was some gold coins and 
 several valuable rings set with diamonds and 
 other precious stones. He soon discovered the 
 owner of the lost property ; it turned out to be
 
 IN MEMORIAM xix 
 
 a lady, who explained that she had tied the bags 
 round her waist under her skirt for safety. 
 
 William Callow received his earliest instruction 
 in drawing from Newton and Theodore Fielding, 
 and gained some knowledge in the application of 
 water-colours from his friend Charles Bentley, 
 who was a fellow-pupil with him at the Fieldings ; 
 but Callow considered his great love for painting 
 architectural subjects to have been acquired by 
 his association with John Shotter Boys whilst 
 they were together in Paris. Callow, like Boys, 
 did not belong to the severe class of architectural 
 draughtsmen who minutely depict every detail of 
 ornament, but street scenes, with picturesque 
 buildings and overhanging houses, usually com- 
 posed the chief features of his compositions, in 
 whicli effective disposition of light and shade and 
 masses of colour, forming harmonious contrasts, 
 display a more conspicuous part than local exact- 
 ness. He also acquired a taste for making water- 
 colour paintings of shipping and seascapes. 
 Charles Bentley became well known as a marine 
 painter, and as he and Callow were always fast 
 friends and made many sketching tours together, 
 the former may very probably have influenced 
 Callow's art in this direction.
 
 xx WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 During his first long walking tour to the 
 Pyrenees in 1836 Callow made many of his 
 sketches carefully in water-colours, but later he 
 chiefly confined himself to his pencil whilst travel- 
 ling both abroad and in England. Besides filling 
 numerous sketch-books he was in the habit of 
 making careful pencil drawings. These he always 
 kept, and at the time of his death he had accumu- 
 lated many hundreds of them. It was his practice 
 to execute all his finished paintings in his studio 
 from these pencil drawings. He had such a 
 wonderful memory for colour that he was enabled 
 to depict the scenes which he had sketched years 
 ago with only the aid of his black and white 
 drawings. 
 
 He never commenced one of his finished paint- 
 ings, not even to sketch it in with his pencil, until 
 he saw the whole subject complete in his mind and 
 he knew exactly the way in which he would treat 
 it. He chiefly worked by inspiration. He was 
 known to look through hundreds of sketches 
 and feel he could not do justice to any of them. 
 Afterwards an inspiration would suddenly come to 
 him, and he would set to work in earnest, invariably 
 completing the painting before commencing another 
 subject. He was a wonderful draughtsman, and
 
 IN MEMORIAM xxi 
 
 his hand was so steady that he never required, even 
 in his most elaborate subjects, to remove a line 
 once he had drawn it. 
 
 William Callow took up oil painting shortly 
 before the year 1850, and contributed pictures to 
 the British Institution and Royal Academy, con- 
 tinuing to do so almost annually to the former till 
 its close in 1867, and to the latter until 1876, 
 when he shortly afterwards relinquished oil painting 
 and confined himself to water-colours. 
 
 With regard to his water-colour paintings it is 
 surprising how little his style changed all through 
 his long life. He first learnt his broad manner of 
 painting in Paris seventy years ago, and the works 
 executed during the present century have the same 
 free handling of pure water-colour. He strictly 
 adhered to the early principles of the Old Water- 
 Colour Society forbidding the use of body-colour. 
 He preferred a hard, non-absorbent paper, and 
 generally used Whatman paper, which he did not 
 tone either by staining or washing with any colour. 
 There was no preparatory work ; he commenced 
 with whatever local tint he required. The drawing 
 was then washed with pure water and allowed to 
 dry before the next tint was added, the hard edges 
 being softened with a brush and water.
 
 xxii WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 His earliest paintings were exhibited in France, 
 and he was awarded medals at Cambrai in 1836 
 and 1839, at Boulogne -sur-Mer in 1837, and at 
 Rouen in 1839 and 1840, whilst at the Paris Salon 
 he had the honour of receiving a gold medal in 
 1840 for a water-colour painting, "A View of 
 Richmond," which attracted the attention of the 
 Royal Family of France, and was the means of 
 his first being brought into association with 
 them. 
 
 He was the last of the fashionable drawing- 
 masters. Whilst he was in Paris he taught the 
 children of King Louis Philippe and many of the 
 French nobility, and on his taking up his residence 
 in England he continued to give lessons in drawing 
 until a comparatively recent period to innumerable 
 pupils. Amongst them may be mentioned two 
 Viceroys of India, the late Earl of Northbrook 
 and the Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, besides 
 many judges and military officers. Amongst his 
 lady students were the late Baroness Meyer 
 de Rothschild, Lady Antony de Rothschild, 
 and Lady Amherst of Hackney and her six 
 daughters. 
 
 William Callow was greatly beloved by his 
 fellow-members of the Royal Water-Colour
 
 IN MEMORIAM xxiii 
 
 Society, and to show their great appreciation of his 
 loyalty to the Society they presented him with an 
 illuminated address on the occasion of his ninetieth 
 birthday, and subsequently it was the custom of 
 many of them to pay annual visits, both on his 
 birthday and New Year's Day, to him at his home 
 at Great Missenden. 
 
 In 1907 he was persuaded to have an exhibition 
 of his paintings at the Leicester Galleries. It 
 proved to be a great success, and William Callow 
 received many hundreds of letters of congratulations 
 both from friends and strangers in all parts of the 
 country. He himself visited the Exhibition on the 
 26th October of that year, which proved to be the 
 last visit he ever made to London or elsewhere. 
 Early in the present year he was attacked with 
 influenza, succeeded by bronchitis, from which he 
 never recovered, and died on 20th February, at Great 
 Missenden, where he had resided for more than fifty 
 years, and where he was greatly beloved and revered. 
 His nobility of character and charming personality 
 endeared him to all who had the privilege of 
 knowing him. Of his private generosity none will 
 ever know, but he was generous to a fault, especially 
 in cases of suffering. He was buried in Great 
 Missenden Churchyard, and the funeral service was
 
 xxiv WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 attended by the President, V ice-President, and 
 many other of his fellow-members of the Royal 
 Water-Colour Society, as well as by numerous 
 residents anxious to pay a last token of respect to 
 " the grand old man," as they loved to call him.
 
 WtlRZBURG. 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 BOYHOOD 
 
 I HAVE always retained pleasing recollections of 
 my native town, the old historical borough of 
 Greenwich. In early days I used to revisit it 
 with my father in a Thames wherry, and at a later 
 date, by a more rapid means of progression, in 
 a steamboat. I was born on the 28th of July 
 1812, and was one of a family of four ; my two
 
 2 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 sisters and my brother John, who was ten years 
 my junior, all have predeceased me. When I was 
 only one year old my father, who was at the time 
 employed at Greenwich, received an appointment 
 as manager of works for alterations and improve- 
 ments in the barracks at Norman Cross on the 
 Great North Road near Stilton, where the French 
 prisoners were confined during the Napoleonic 
 wars. Here, I was told, prisoners used to nurse 
 and make much of me ; it was a strange co- 
 incidence that I should become in later life so 
 intimately associated with France and her country- 
 men. After peace was proclaimed in 1815, my 
 father's appointment terminated, and he with 
 his family returned to Greenwich. During our 
 residence there the allied sovereigns of Europe 
 met in Greenwich Park and I was taken to see 
 them, but I have no recollection of the event. 
 My earliest reminiscences were travelling in the 
 basket of a* coach and being put down at the 
 Ship Inn at Charing Cross, when my parents came 
 to London and permanently settled there. I well 
 remember, when eight years of age, being taken 
 to see the funeral procession of Queen Caroline, 
 the wife of King George IV. ; the cortege was 
 obliged to pass along Tottenham Court Road
 
 BOYHOOD 3 
 
 instead of the New Road, owing to the latter route 
 being blocked by the authorities. Of my school 
 days I have but a dim recollection. Unlike most 
 boys I was more disposed towards quiet reading 
 or drawing than boisterous games ; in fact, I 
 never saw cricket, football or any other game 
 played at that period of my life. A love for 
 drawing rapidly developed at this early age, and 
 I eagerly drew everything which attracted my 
 attention ; my father wisely encouraged it by pro- 
 viding me with prints to copy. 
 
 In 1823 an event occurred which was destined to 
 decide my future career. Mr. Theodore Fielding, 
 an elder brother of Copley Fielding, required a 
 boy to assist him in colouring prints and in 
 engraving in aquatint. My father applied for the 
 position for me and I was ultimately engaged. I 
 commenced work at 26 Newman Street, Oxford 
 Street, and my hours were from 8 A.M. till 6 P.M. 
 At first I found the time terribly long, and the 
 postman's bell at five o'clock, when he came to 
 collect the letters, was always a welcome signal 
 that a day's work was nearing its close. In 
 those days the postage fee was paid to the post- 
 man, or, as more often was the case, letters were 
 despatched unpaid. I was occupied in this posi-
 
 4 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 tion for two years, and my evenings were spent 
 in receiving lessons from a schoolmaster near our 
 home in Camden Town, whilst my spare moments 
 were devoted to drawing. It was during the 
 time I was in Newman Street that I first saw the 
 beautiful water-colour drawings of Copley Fielding, 
 who forwarded them from Brighton, where he 
 lived, to be despatched to the Old Water-Colour 
 Society. Mr. Copley Fielding gave me a ticket 
 for the Exhibition, and it was a proud day for 
 me when I went to see Fielding's works hung 
 on the walls with those of John Varley, Samuel 
 Prout, Peter De Wint, David Cox and others, 
 little thinking that my own productions would 
 ever occupy a similar position. 
 
 In 1825 Theodore Fielding removed to Kentish 
 Town, and I was articled to him as a pupil for 
 eight years for instruction in water-colour drawing 
 and aquatint engraving. At that period it was all 
 open fields between Camden Town and Kentish 
 Town, and as I returned home in the evening the 
 watchman from his box used to bid me good-night 
 as I passed. There were two other pupils, Charles 
 Bentley and John Edge. This was a very happy 
 period of my life. These pupils both assisted 
 me in acquiring the methods employed for my
 
 BOYHOOD 5 
 
 work. To the former I owe much, as he encour- 
 aged me to paint ; in fact, he gave me my first 
 painting lesson, and assisted me in every way to 
 bring out my natural talents. 
 
 In 1827 Theodore Fielding, having some time 
 previously been appointed Professor at Addis - 
 combe College, found it necessary to remove to 
 Croydon to be near to his work, and Bentley and 
 Edge, having finished their time, left to start life 
 on their own account. I was no longer required, 
 and returned to the office at Newman Street, 
 which was then being managed by another brother, 
 Thales Fielding. Here I continued engraving, but 
 all my spare moments at home were occupied at 
 water-colour painting, rising early and working late 
 in order to do so. I used to show my drawings to 
 Copley Fielding, who gave me great encourage- 
 ment and kind advice. At last when I had seven 
 finished drawings I determined to try and sell them. 
 I set off to a dealer's at the bottom of Holborn 
 Hill, considering all the way how much I should 
 ask for them, and thinking how rich I should be 
 on my return. I felt rather nervous on entering 
 the shop, but on showing the drawings to the 
 dealer he agreed to my price, viz. one guinea for 
 the lot. He would not, however, give me any
 
 6 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 money, but offered painting materials in exchange, 
 which I took, being delighted at having, as I 
 thought, made such a good bargain. 
 
 In 1829 my father was superintending some 
 repairs at Windsor Castle for King George IV., 
 which gave me an opportunity of seeing all over it. 
 I was delighted with everything I saw, and made 
 a few small sketches there. Early in the same 
 year I visited Theodore Fielding at his residence 
 in Combe Lane, Croydon, to assist him in some 
 work. At that time, previous to the advent of 
 the railway, Croydon was quite a country town, and 
 the passing through of the Brighton fast coach 
 was the chief event of the day. This was my first 
 visit to the country, and I vividly remember the 
 strolls along the quiet lanes where the nightingales 
 sang, the lovely walks across the fields to Combe 
 Hurst, not then enclosed, and sitting on the hill 
 to watch the sun go down, sometimes sketching, 
 but always with a feeling of peaceful enjoyment. 
 I was enraptured, for I had never known before 
 what it was to enjoy real country life. I returned 
 to London on the 25th June, and an event now 
 occurred which was the turning-point in my life. 
 In the following month, before I had completed 
 my seventeenth year, Mr. Ostervald, a Swiss, called
 
 BOYHOOD 7 
 
 on Mr. Thales Fielding, and stated that he required 
 some one to go to Paris to assist him in making 
 engravings for a work on Switzerland. Mr. 
 Fielding asked me whether I would like to go. 
 To this proposal I at once consented without 
 hesitation, and promised to be ready within a week. 
 On reaching home in the evening my parents were 
 much surprised to hear the news, but nevertheless 
 everything was made ready so that I was able to 
 start at the appointed time.
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 IN PARIS 
 
 ON the 16th July 1829 I left home alone for a 
 foreign country. I knew scarcely a word of French, 
 and all I had to assist me were a few questions 
 written on a sheet of paper, without any answers. 
 My father and one of my sisters saw me off from 
 Charing Cross at eight o'clock in the evening by the 
 mail coach to Dover. The coach passed through 
 Gravesend and Rochester, stopping at the latter 
 place for refreshments in the real old coaching
 
 10 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 days' style, and after travelling all night it reached 
 Canterbury at six o'clock the next morning, when I 
 was put inside the coach by the guard, and slept 
 soundly until I was awoke by the blowing of the 
 horn as the coach entered Dover, and on looking 
 out of the window beheld the sea for the first 
 time. I went to see Mr. Thales Fielding, who 
 was staying at Dover, and after having partaken 
 of a good breakfast I proceeded on board the 
 steamer, lying in the harbour near the old jetty, 
 which still exists. Although delighted at being 
 on the sea, I was so tired that I fell asleep almost 
 immediately after the steamer started, and did 
 not wake up until three hours afterwards, just as 
 the steamer was entering Calais harbour. Some 
 friendly passengers assisted me in. securing a seat, 
 first on the English coach to Boulogne, and after- 
 wards on the French diligence, which reached 
 Paris in forty-eight hours. On descending from 
 the diligence I hired a porter to carry my baggage 
 to Mr. Ostervald's, to whom I had a letter of 
 introduction, but on arrival at his house I found 
 that he was away from Paris ; so with the help 
 of my written phrases I explained to the servant 
 that I would leave my luggage and call again 
 the next morning. I then retraced my steps to
 
 ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR, DOVER (1856) 
 (Size 10 x 14 J inches.)
 
 PARIS 11 
 
 the diligence office in order to find out where 
 Hotel Dauphin was situated, but after trying in 
 vain to understand the words, gestures and signs 
 as to the route, I hired a cabriolet, in which the 
 passenger sat beside the driver, it being the only 
 vehicle on hire in the streets of Paris in those 
 days. On arrival at the hotel I paid the driver 
 by holding out a handful of silver that he might 
 take his fare. Whether he cheated me I never 
 knew. I had only been in Paris three days when 
 I was asked if I could lend some money for a short 
 time. I only possessed a five-pound note, which 
 my father had given me ; this I lent, but never 
 saw it again. Consequently I can truly say 
 that I started life in Paris penniless. The next 
 morning I traced my way across Paris again to 
 Mr. Ostervald's house, and found him at home. 
 He had arranged that I should reside with a Swiss 
 family, but Newton Fielding, whom I subsequently 
 met, persuaded me to share his studio in Rue St. 
 Georges, as it was more convenient for my work. 
 I was chiefly occupied in water-colour painting, 
 and it is from this time that I date my first pro- 
 gress, learning all I could by watching Fielding 
 whilst he was at work. I also assisted him in 
 engraving. As we lived near to Montmartre we
 
 12 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 frequently walked there to enjoy the extensive 
 view of the country towards St. Denis. 
 
 In the next year 1830 we left Rue St. Georges 
 and went to reside in Rue St. Honore. Here we 
 were engaged in making drawings on lithographic 
 stones, and I employed my leisure time in learning 
 the French language. I soon acquired, by going 
 to the theatre as often as possible, the habit not 
 only of speaking fluently but also of thinking in 
 French, and later I translated one of Sir Walter 
 Scott's novels. 
 
 On the evening of the 26th July we were 
 suddenly startled by an uproar in Place Vendome, 
 and on Fielding and myself rushing into the street 
 to ascertain the cause, we found an excited mob 
 crying out " A bas Charles X." The mob pro- 
 ceeded down Rue St. Honore, breaking all the 
 lamps which were hung by cords across the street, 
 and also many of those in front of the shops and 
 cafes at which the shutters had not been closed in 
 time. The streets were quickly deserted by the 
 respectable part of the population, and the entire 
 city was in the hands of the Revolutionists. On 
 the following day the Revolution commenced in 
 earnest ; barricades were erected in the streets by 
 the mob, and the soldiers fired upon the people.
 
 PARIS 13 
 
 I well remember on the 28th July, my eighteenth 
 birthday, I was sent by Fielding to try and obtain 
 some money which was owing by a picture-dealer 
 living in Rue du Roule, but after climbing over 
 several barricades I could proceed no further, and 
 1 was compelled to return after having run con- 
 siderable risk for nothing. I should mention that 
 both Newton Fielding and myself were obliged for 
 safety to don tri-colour cockades, and I have still 
 mine in my possession. 
 
 During this time our only food was bread, 
 butter, and currants. One day we set out to the 
 Marche des Innocents in order to try and obtain 
 some provisions, and were about to cross a street 
 to get to the river Seine, when we were suddenly 
 stopped by a bystander, which act doubtless saved 
 our lives, for in the next moment a volley was 
 fired down the street by a detachment of soldiers, 
 and the roadway was strewn with killed and 
 wounded persons lying in all directions. On 
 arriving at the Quai we had quickly to dip behind 
 a wall in order to avoid more bullets which were 
 flying about It was most unpleasant, and I 
 should never have ventured out had not Newton 
 Fielding been so anxious for me to accompany 
 him. We returned by the Quais to the Champs
 
 14 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Elysees, where we found a restaurant open. On 
 entering we ascertained that we could have a 
 " bifteck aux pommes," and were anticipating the 
 pleasure of a good meal when the tramp of 
 soldiers was heard arriving from Rambouillet. We 
 were hurriedly turned out of the restaurant and 
 the doors closed with " Allez-vous-en avec votre 
 bifteck aux pommes." Hungry, tired, and dis- 
 appointed, we wended our way back to our rooms 
 and made a frugal repast with the last of our 
 bread and currants. 
 
 Next morning (31st July) we again sallied forth 
 in search of food, when we found everything 
 changed. Charles X. had fled, the troops had 
 been driven out, the populace had taken possession 
 of the city, and there were rejoicings everywhere. 
 The national guard was called out, and our tri- 
 colour cockades were more than ever required to 
 ensure our safety. The weather was extremely 
 hot, the streets were still barricaded, and not a 
 vehicle was to be seen ; and the mob, which had 
 returned from pursuing the soldiers, were dressed 
 in uniforms, helmets, etc., taken from the killed 
 and wounded a sight it was impossible ever to 
 forget. 
 
 In the afternoon I went to the Palais Royal ;
 
 PARIS 15 
 
 there on the balcony, with his family and officers, 
 stood the Due d'Orleans addressing the people 
 below, and accepting the Lieutenant-Generalship 
 of the Kingdom. Printed papers were thrown 
 down amongst the crowd, and I managed to 
 secure one of them, which I still retain as a 
 memento of these exciting times. It reads as 
 
 follows : 
 
 HABITANS DE PARIS 
 
 Les Deputes de la France, en ce moment reunis a Paris, 
 m'ont exprime le desir que je me rendisse dans cette capitale 
 pour y exercer les fonctions de Lieutenant-General du 
 Royaume. 
 
 Je n'ai pas balance a venir partager vos dangers, a me 
 placer au milieu de votre heroique population, et a faire 
 tous mes efforts pour vous preserver des calamites de la 
 guerre civile et de Panarchie. 
 
 En rentrant dans la ville de Paris, je portais avec orgueil 
 ces couleurs glorieuses que vous avez reprises, et que j'avais 
 moi-meme longtemps portees. 
 
 Les chambres vont se reunir ; elles aviseront aux moyens 
 d'assurer le regne des lois, et le maintien des droits de la nation. 
 
 La Charte sera desormais une verite. 
 
 Louis PHILIPPE D'ORLEANS. 
 
 It was now plainly evident to Fielding and myself 
 that, owing to the unsettled state of Paris, nothing 
 could be done professionally for some time, and it 
 was useless for us to remain there, so we decided 
 to return to England.
 
 16 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 On the 31st July, having hastily packed a few 
 things which we could carry, we set off on foot, for, 
 owing to the barricades, it was impossible to take a 
 vehicle, to St. Denis, where we took the diligence 
 to Rouen, and on our arrival there in the morning 
 we were able to inform a detachment of the Garde 
 Nationale, which was just leaving for Paris, that 
 the Revolution was at an end. In the afternoon 
 we secured seats on an English coach which was 
 leaving for Dieppe, and we thus passed a second 
 night in travelling. On arrival at Dieppe we were 
 fortunate to find a steamer on the point of starting, 
 and had just time to get on board. After a rough 
 crossing we found ourselves at midnight off 
 Brighton, but the sea was so rough that it was 
 impossible for us to land, although we were close 
 enough to the chain-pier for the captain to impart, 
 by aid of a speaking trumpet, to those on the pier 
 the news that order was restored in Paris. We 
 eventually succeeded in landing at Shoreham, and 
 took a cab back to Brighton, arriving at the Old 
 Ship Hotel at one o'clock in the morning. After 
 an excellent supper I went to bed to enjoy a much- 
 needed rest, and with an intense feeling of pleasure 
 at being back in England after an absence of twelve 
 months. The next morning we took the coach to
 
 NOTRE DAME, PARIS 
 (Size 9J x 6| inches.)
 
 ill
 
 PARIS 17 
 
 London, and my unexpected arrival was a great 
 surprise to my family, who knew nothing of my 
 movements, for in those days letters, costing a 
 franc for postage, were few and far between. 
 
 Arrangements were at once made for me to 
 again stay with Theodore Fielding at Croydon and 
 to assist him in colouring prints. Whilst residing 
 here I revisited Combe Hill and other haunts for 
 the purpose of making sketches. After the expira- 
 tion of six months I determined to rejoin Newton 
 Fielding, who had returned to Paris, and on the 2nd 
 February 1831 I again took the mail coach to 
 Dover. On arrival there I found the sea so rough 
 that the steamer was obliged to lie out in the bay, 
 and the passengers had to be rowed to it in small 
 boats, and, being at the mercy of the boatmen, 
 each had to pay an exorbitant fee of five shillings. 
 On reaching the steamer we were hauled on board 
 by the sailors ; my shins were severely bruised, my 
 Inverness cape flew over my head, and a packet of 
 sandwiches, with which my mother had thought- 
 fully provided me, dropped into the sea. 
 
 On reaching Calais, after a crossing of ten 
 hours, the tide was too low to allow the steamer to 
 enter the harbour, so we were despatched in small 
 boats to the sands, and from there we were taken 
 
 3
 
 18 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 on women's backs to dry land. How well I 
 remember the woman who carried me saying, 
 "Tenez ferme," and bidding me clasp her tightly 
 round the neck. The journey by diligence to Paris 
 again took forty-eight hours, including the stoppages 
 en route for rest and refreshments. It was the last 
 occasion on which this part of the journey took me 
 so long, as in a year or two afterwards, with much 
 pressure, it was reduced to twenty-four hours. I 
 took up my old quarters with Newton Fielding in 
 Rue St. Honore ; later we lived in various other 
 parts of Paris, and finally settled in Rue Neuve St. 
 Georges. Shortly afterwards I became associated 
 with Thomas Shotter Boys, the clever but eccentric 
 artist, who had recently arrived from Brussels. In 
 later years I have seen it stated that Boys was 
 a pupil of Bonington, but if that had been the 
 case I certainly should have known of it. Boys 
 never spoke to me of having other than a mere 
 acquaintanceship with Bonington. Boys used 
 frequently to ramble about the ancient part of the 
 cite of Paris in search of old buildings to sketch. 
 I often accompanied him, and was encouraged by 
 him also to make sketches. In fact, I learnt a great 
 deal of the theory and practice of art from Boys, 
 and it was from him I first acquired my love for
 
 PARIS 19 
 
 making water-colour drawings of picturesque old 
 churches and houses, for which subjects I have had 
 a partiality ever since. I may mention that Paris 
 was then as it had been for centuries. The streets, 
 which were lighted by oil lanterns suspended down 
 the middle by cords, were laid with cobble-stones 
 with gutters running down the centre, and without 
 any side pavements ; there was no sanitation, and 
 whenever there was a storm the streets were 
 flooded. The Tuileries were unfinished, and the 
 whole of the Place de Carrousel was filled with 
 houses, the stables of King Charles X., and book- 
 stalls ; the churches, which had been damaged 
 during the Revolution, were unrestored, and the 
 Place de la Concorde and the Champs Elyse'es were 
 almost a desert, whilst the Arc de Triomphe, com- 
 menced by Napoleon I., was still surrounded with 
 scaffolding. In spite of all these detriments Paris, 
 with its boulevards, was then more picturesque 
 than it is at the present time. The immense 
 alterations and improvements which were com- 
 menced by Louis Philippe, and carried on by 
 Napoleon III., render it difficult for me now to 
 recognise many of the old quarters which I knew 
 then so well. 
 
 Baron Triqueti lived in the same house in which I
 
 20 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 resided. Once a week he used to invite his friends, 
 including myself, to meet at his studio in the even- 
 ings, when we sketched armour or any other objects 
 which he had previously arranged. At a later period 
 he became celebrated for designing and casting 
 the bronze gates of the Madeleine ; he was also 
 commissioned by Queen Victoria to execute some 
 decorative work in the Memorial Chapel at 
 Windsor. Triqueti married the youngest daughter 
 of Mrs. Foster, a widow of a chaplain to the British 
 Embassy, and Mr. Ambrose Poynter, father of the 
 President of the Royal Academy, married the 
 eldest daughter. Mrs. Foster held weekly recep- 
 tions at her house, to which I was frequently invited, 
 and there I often met people from England. I 
 continued to make drawings for Newton Fielding, 
 which he used to touch up and add a duck or some 
 object, and eventually they became known as 
 Callow-Fielding drawings. We were very badly off 
 at this period, as there was little or no sale for works 
 of art ; besides, Fielding was very unwell and unable 
 to do much painting. To show to what straits 
 we were put, I will mention an incident which 
 happened. Fielding and I went to dine at a 
 restaurant. My dinner cost twenty-five sous, but 
 Fielding could only muster up fifteen sous to lend
 
 PARIS 21 
 
 me after paying for his own. As a last resource 
 I took two or three drawings to a dealer and tried 
 to sell them to him, but I was not successful ; and 
 I was returning to my lodgings, very depressed, 
 when my eyes lighted upon a piece of silver 
 lying on the ground in Place Vendome, and it 
 proved to be a ten-sous piece, just the sum 
 required to make up the necessary amount for 
 my dinner. 
 
 In the next year, 1832, thanks to Boys, I became 
 more diligent in making sketches both in pencil and 
 water colours, and many a happy day I spent in 
 making short excursions to Versailles, St. Cloud, 
 and Montmartre. I also made some large sketches 
 from the bridges in Paris for Boys, for which 
 he, knowing my fondness for reading, paid me in 
 books. 
 
 In the early part of the year 1833 Newton Field- 
 ing married and returned to England. I went to 
 reside with my Swiss friend Himley, an engraver, 
 who provided me with copper plates to engrave ; 
 and it was at his instigation that I put my first 
 savings of twenty francs into a Bank, which 
 eventually proved to be a good beginning for me. 
 I did not -reside long with Himley, as in the 
 month of May I left him and took an atelier with
 
 22 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 T. S. Boys in Rue de Bouloy. Whilst there I was 
 introduced to Samuel Prout, who called on one 
 occasion to see Boys. My affairs now took a more 
 prosperous turn, and by working early and late 
 I was enabled to save sufficient money to take a 
 trip to England ; even during this holiday I was 
 not idle, for I made a sketch of Pall Mall and 
 others at Richmond for Boys. 
 
 During my stay in London I called upon 
 George Cooke, the line engraver, who was living 
 at Barnes Terrace, to deliver a present from Boys. 
 He received me very kindly and asked me to stay 
 to dinner, when I met his son, E. W. Cooke, the 
 marine painter ; he was then engaged upon his 
 etchings of London Bridge, and was just coming 
 into notice. We exchanged some drawings, and his 
 father made me a present of several India-proof 
 impressions from his Turner plates, a valuable 
 gift which gave me great pleasure. Boys had also 
 commissioned me to convey a present of a Turkish 
 sword to John Constable, the Royal Academician, 
 and I felt much gratified in meeting him. It 
 proved to be the only time I saw Constable, as 
 he died before I came to England again. 
 
 On my return to Paris I accompanied a Mr. 
 Schweiter on a visit to a Mr. Vandermere, who lived
 
 HASTINGS FISHING BOATS, EARLY MORNING (1889) 
 (Size 18 X 11 J inches.)
 
 PARIS 23 
 
 at Royaumont, about ten leagues from Paris. We 
 made part of the journey on foot in order to do 
 some sketching. We were well received by the 
 Vandermeres, and stayed with them some days, 
 making numerous water-colour sketches of very 
 interesting ruins of an old abbey, and also of the 
 beautiful park with an ornamental piece of water. 
 The adjoining mansion was inhabited by the 
 Marquis de Bellisin, who invited us to make day 
 excursions with him in the neighbourhood and to 
 dinner in the evenings, with music and dancing 
 afterwards. Altogether this was a most enjoyable 
 visit. 
 
 In December of this year the boat containing 
 the Luxor, having been towed from Egypt to 
 Havre and up the Seine to Paris, was moored 
 close to the Place de la Concorde, when the 
 obelisk was hauled on a staging, erected for the 
 purpose, to the pedestal on which it now stands. 
 I made a sketch of the boat containing the obelisk 
 on the spot. 
 
 In 1834 Boys gave up his atelier in Rue de 
 Bouloy, and 1 took it on by myself, and remained 
 there until I finally left Paris. About this time 
 I had made quite a reputation for putting effects 
 into other artists' works, chiefly on wood blocks
 
 24 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 and drawings for engravings. Two important 
 instances I can remember ; one was an extensive 
 publication on North America, carried out by a 
 German prince, assisted by Bodmer, a German 
 artist ; the other was a grand work on Versailles, 
 containing a collection of engravings after the 
 paintings there. Having now a studio to myself, 
 I started a drawing class, and many of my pupils 
 were members of the old French nobility, including 
 the Comte de Faucigny, Viscomte de Rouget, his 
 cousin, Comte de Nicolai, and many others. I 
 recollect exchanging several of my drawings and 
 sketches with Comte de Faucigny for a beautiful 
 Louis XIV. clock, and others with a Madam oiselle 
 Naudet for old pistols, swords, and other curiosities 
 which helped to furnish my atelier. 
 
 In this year I exhibited at the Salon a large 
 water-colour drawing of "A View from Richmond," 
 composed from a sketch done when I was last in 
 England. It attracted considerable attention, as 
 the art of water-colour painting was practically 
 unknown in Paris at the time. Shortly after 
 the opening of the exhibition, much to my 
 surprise, I received a visit to my studio, on the 
 sixieme e'tage, from an equerry of King Louis 
 Philippe, to inquire whether I was willing to
 
 PARIS 25 
 
 teach drawing and painting to the King's son, the 
 Due de Nemours. Of course I readily consented, 
 and felt very proud at having been selected for 
 the honour. I gave the first lesson to the Prince 
 at 8 A.M. on the 12th March 1834, at the Tuileries. 
 On my first introduction to Royalty I was very 
 nervous, especially as I spoke French imperfectly, 
 but his Royal Highness quickly put me at my 
 ease, and all my feelings of nervousness vanished. 
 Shortly afterwards the Due informed me that his 
 sister, the Princesse Clementine d'Orleans, com- 
 manded my presence, when I learned that she also 
 wished to receive lessons in water-colour painting. 
 The room in which I gave lessons to the Due 
 was on the first floor, with windows looking on to 
 the Tuileries gardens. Occasionally the governor 
 of the Tuileries or some of the Due's personal 
 friends would come and chat on all kinds of 
 subjects quite freely before me. The Princess 
 took her lessons in a room on the ground floor, 
 overlooking the Place de Carrousel. We used 
 to sit at one of the windows, the lady-in-waiting, 
 Madame Angeley, always being present. I gave 
 lessons to the Princess twice a week nearly all 
 the year round, but in summer at Neuilly or St. 
 Cloud, and always at eight o'clock in the morning.
 
 26 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 We sketched from a tent at Neuilly, and it was 
 there I first had the honour of being introduced 
 to the Queen ; her Majesty came to see the pro- 
 gress made by the Princess, who was most con- 
 stant in her attendance, and seldom missed a lesson 
 during the seven years I taught her ; in fact, until 
 I left Paris. On leaving, after each lesson, I was 
 given an order for twenty francs from Madame 
 Angeley, and when these orders reached twenty, 
 I presented them at the Bank, and received the 
 money, viz. four hundred francs in five -franc 
 pieces, which I carried away in a bag. I also 
 gave some lessons to the Prince de Joinville. I 
 cannot speak too highly in praise of this charm- 
 ing family ; they were always amiable, kind, and 
 studying to do whatever they thought would give 
 me pleasure. These were amongst my happiest 
 days in France. 
 
 My drawings now commanded a ready sale, 
 and I had no difficulty in disposing of them to 
 the dealers. I received forty francs for a drawing 
 of a canal near Croydon, which was a good price 
 for me at that time. 
 
 During this year John Lewis, the distinguished 
 member of the Old Water-Colour Society, called 
 at my atelier, on his way from Spain back to
 
 RUE DE LA GROSSE HORLOGE, ROUEN (1895) 
 (Size 25J x 18i inches.)
 
 PARIS 27 
 
 England, to see T. S. Boys, who of course had left. 
 " So you are a water-colour painter," he said on 
 examining my works. He expressed himself so 
 pleased with them that he advised me to send 
 some to the Old Water-Colour Society with an 
 application to become an Associate, but, not think- 
 ing that he was in earnest, I did not follow his 
 advice at the moment He remained for some 
 time in Paris, in the Rue de Richelieu, working 
 indefatigably on his Spanish paintings. On several 
 occasions I posed for him as a model, once for my 
 ear, and on another occasion wearing a cap of 
 Zumalcarrequi, a Spanish chieftain. 
 
 During this period the French school of oil 
 painting was very prolific in artists, such as 
 Ingres, Horace Vernet, De la Roche, De la 
 Croix, Descamps, Gudin, Isabey, and Scheffer, 
 all producing fine works, which were shown at 
 the Salon Exhibitions. I used to go to the 
 private views, which were attended by all the 
 fashionable people in Paris. Later, many of the 
 painters just mentioned were engaged to carry 
 out an idea of Louis Philippe to have pictures 
 representing " toutes les gloires de la France " 
 painted to fill the galleries at Versailles. Almost 
 any painter could on application obtain a com-
 
 28 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 mission for the work. On one occasion my friend 
 M. Schweiter was commissioned to paint the 
 portrait of a general ; he had nothing to guide 
 him but the military dress of the period. In fact, 
 this was the case with most of the portraits which 
 were painted, as the King was imperious in having 
 his idea carried out as rapidly as possible. 
 
 In May 1835 I made my first walking tour, 
 and was accompanied by my old fellow - pupil, 
 John Edge, and a Jersey man named Larbarlestier, 
 who had come to Paris to assist in engraving for 
 a work which was being produced. We first took 
 the diligence to Rouen, thence we walked beside 
 the Seine to Jumieges, where there is a most 
 interesting ruin of an abbey, situated beside the 
 river. The next day we followed the right bank 
 of the Seine to Quillebceuf, but before reaching 
 there we had to cross in a ferry boat over the 
 river where it is very broad, and, being at low 
 tide, there was a great extent of mud -bank, 
 which prevented our boat approaching the land, 
 so the ferryman had to carry each of us ashore, 
 complaining at our weight, as well he might, 
 with our knapsacks included. We proceeded to 
 Honfleur, where we made some sketches, and on 
 the next day crossed over to Havre. Here
 
 PARIS 29 
 
 Larbarlestier left us, and Edge and myself took 
 the steamer to Southampton. After touring on 
 foot round the Isle of Wight we went to Ports- 
 mouth, and walked to Winchester, making a large 
 number of sketches on the way, and finally took 
 the coach to London. This tour proved to be a 
 very pleasant one, and in this manner I was 
 enabled to make sketches of many interesting 
 places unfrequented by travellers. I afterwards 
 went on a visit to some relatives at Lowestoft, my 
 father's birthplace, and on returning to London I 
 at once proceeded back to Paris with John Edge, 
 taking with me my brother John, who was then 
 a lad of thirteen years of age. 
 
 In this year I was offered an appointment as 
 artist to a scientific expedition round the world, 
 but being too much occupied in teaching and 
 making a series of drawings on deep-sea fishing 
 for my Swiss friend Himley, I declined the post. 
 
 My object in bringing my brother with me to 
 Paris was to try and induce him to become an artist, 
 although he had no ambition to take up art. He 
 wished to be a sailor, but by degrees I persuaded 
 him to go to the Louvre and copy the paintings 
 there. After a time he took great interest in his 
 work and made many excellent copies of the old
 
 30 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 masters. I also used to study at the Louvre 
 whenever I could spare the time, and made 
 numerous copies of the paintings by Rubens, 
 Titian, Ostade, Salvator Rosa, and many others. 
 They are still in my possession.
 
 IX THE HIGH STREET, SOUTHAMPTON (if 
 
 (Size 15J >< 18 inches.)
 
 
 COURTRAI. 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 A WALKING TOUR THROUGH THE SOUTH 
 OF FRANCE 
 
 IN the year 1836, after sending to an Exhibition 
 at Cambrai a water-colour painting for which I 
 was awarded a silver medal, I determined to make 
 a walking tour through the south of France, 
 leaving Jack Edge and my brother to carry on the 
 work in my atelier. 
 
 The following account of this tour is extracted 
 from a diary which I kept at the time : 
 
 June 6. We, i.e. myself, a German friend 
 
 31
 
 32 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 named Soherr, and his dog, left Paris by diligence 
 at eight o'clock in the evening for Chartres, and 
 the weather being fine, we had a pleasant journey. 
 
 June 7. A fine view of the town with the 
 cathedral on a hill as we approached Chartres at 
 six o'clock in the morning. A man on the diligence 
 recommended us to some lodgings, which turned 
 out to be a shoemaker's. We could not see the 
 interior of the cathedral as the roof had un- 
 fortunately been burnt three days previously, so 
 visited the churches of St. Pierre and St. Andre*, 
 where we found a great many curious monuments. 
 
 June 8. At eleven o'clock we started off with 
 our knapsacks and walked to Bonneval, a distance 
 of seven leagues, 1 arriving there in the evening, very 
 tired and weary, as we were not accustomed to long 
 walks. After dinner we visited the fourteenth- 
 century church ; we were obliged to go there in 
 our slippers as we were so footsore. 
 
 June 9. After breakfast I made some sketches 
 whilst Soherr, who was an architect, took some 
 measurements of the church. We then started 
 for Chdteaudun, reaching that place at five 
 o'clock. We visited the old chateau, sur- 
 mounted by a fine tower of the sixteenth century. 
 
 1 1 league = 2 miles, 743 yards.
 
 A WALKING TOUR 33 
 
 In the evening we started off again, and slept in 
 an auberge on the roadside. 
 
 June 10. After starting at half-past seven in 
 the morning we reached a village, where we had 
 breakfast, and, as the weather was so warm, we 
 rested here till the evening, when we continued our 
 walk to Orleans, where we arrived in the dark. 
 We tried to put up at the Hotel de la Boule d'Or, 
 but because we were wearing blouses, on account 
 of the dust, they refused to admit us, so we went to 
 the Hotel de France, where we fortunately ran 
 across an English friend, named Talbot, who had 
 previously arranged to meet us at Orleans and 
 accompany us on the tour. 
 
 June 11. Visited the cathedral, built by 
 Henri IV., and made sketches of the river Loire, 
 which, with its fine bridge and boats with large 
 white sails, was very picturesque. 
 
 June 12. Quitted Orleans at 7.30 A.M. and 
 walked beside the Loire to the village of Meung, 
 where we breakfasted ; afterwards Talbot and I 
 smoked and rested outside the auberge, whilst 
 Soherr made some measurements of the church. 
 I had placed a wine-glass on the ground, and an 
 old woman accidentally broke it. The daughter of 
 the house thereupon roundly abused her and made
 
 34 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 her cry, all because of a trifling damage of two sous, 
 which I paid. Afterwards we visited the church, 
 and found it to be nothing remarkable ; but this 
 was the way with Soherr all the time we were 
 together ; he made drawings of the worst and left 
 the best. In the afternoon we continued beside 
 the Loire to Beaugency. Passing through a village 
 we saw a procession carrying the Host, it being 
 a fete day ; the villagers had hung up sheets 
 against the walls for the want of tapestry. I did 
 not expect to see so much religious devotion so near 
 Paris. The pretty town of Beaugency was also 
 en fete ; we arrived too late to see the procession, 
 but the sides of the houses were still covered with 
 toile and the streets strewn with flowers. In the 
 evening we went on the fine old bridge, with 
 twenty-five arches over the river, and saw a 
 beautiful sunset effect, but it was too dark to 
 sketch it. 
 
 June 13. Arose at 6 A.M. to make a sketch 
 from the river ; afterwards set off along a road 
 beside the Loire, which is here very beautiful, to 
 St. Laurent, where we breakfasted, and then we 
 went on to the Chateau de Chambord, belonging to 
 the Due de Bordeaux. 
 
 June 14. Got up early and visited the chateau,
 
 A WALKING TOUR 35 
 
 examining every part of it, even going on the roof 
 for the sake of the view ; the house contains a very 
 curious double spiral staircase. After early break- 
 fast we walked to Blois (four leagues), where we 
 arrived about mid-day, and put up at the Hotel de la 
 Tete Noire. Visited the curious old chateau, which 
 is now the barracks, also the churches of St. 
 Nicholas and St. Louis, and afterwards made two 
 sketches of the picturesque town from the river. 
 On returning to our hotel we were accosted by a 
 gendarme, who demanded our passports in a very 
 insolent manner. I informed him that if he would 
 come to the hotel we would produce them. He 
 then became very abusive, and said that foreigners 
 ought to have their passports always with them. 
 Eventually he followed us to the hotel, where we 
 met the maitre on the doorstep, who had a lively 
 discussion with the gendarme for about half an 
 hour. Eventually he was sent about his business, 
 and we all went to the head office to lodge a 
 complaint. In the evening we had two bottles of 
 wine, and invited the maitre (f hotel to join us, as 
 he had so kindly taken our part. 
 
 June 15. Sorry to have to leave at 7 A.M., as 
 we were much pleased with Blois. Passed through 
 Chailles, Monthou, and Sambin, breakfasting at the
 
 36 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 last-named village, the country now becoming 
 more fertile and rich, and arrived, by a beautiful 
 road, at Montrichard, on the river Cher. A steep 
 ascent leads up to the village, with houses built on 
 rocks on either side of the road, and the ruins of a 
 fine old castle at the summit. We spent a quiet 
 evening on the banks of the river, a lovely 
 spot. 
 
 June 16. I was up at 5 A.M., and made four 
 sketches before breakfast. Afterwards we walked 
 to Clwnonceaux, where, leaving our knapsacks at an 
 auberge, we went to see the chateau, which still 
 contains the fine old furniture of Francois I. and 
 Henri II, who lived here, including the beds of 
 Diane de Poitiers and of Catherine de Medici s. 
 We then set off to Amboise, arriving there in time 
 for dinner. In the evening we visited the chateau, 
 belonging to Louis Philippe ; the house, being late 
 Gothic, is not remarkable for its architecture, but 
 there is a very pretty garden. 
 
 June 17. Arose again at 5 A.M., and made 
 a few sketches, but was very disappointed with 
 Amboise. We set off for Tours, and ten minutes 
 after we had started it began to rain hard. As it 
 seemed to be set in for a wet day, we plodded on 
 through it for four leagues, and became soaked
 
 A WALKING TOUR 37 
 
 to the skin. Fortunately the sun came out and 
 dried us by the time we reached Vouvray, where we 
 stopped to have some refreshments. On reaching 
 Tours we went to the Hotel de France. I was 
 not impressed with the town, and the cathedral 
 has nothing very remarkable, excepting some fine 
 stained-glass windows. 
 
 June 18. Did a little sketching, but could find 
 nothing very interesting. We were detained at 
 Tours for our washing till seven in the evening. 
 Blew up the washerwoman and left for Luynes, 
 where did not arrive until it was quite dark. 
 
 June 19. Up at 5 A.M., and ready to start, but 
 Soherr kept us waiting until eight o'clock whilst he 
 was writing a letter. This was the first little rift in 
 the lute, which ultimately caused our parting com- 
 pany. We eventually set off for Langeais, and met 
 a large number of country people going to market 
 at Luynes ; the men all wore large black hats and 
 many of the girls were very pretty. After passing 
 Langeais on the way to Bourgueil, Soherr said he 
 would take another road because we would not 
 agree to go with him to Angers ; so we went to 
 an auberge to settle the matter over a bottle of 
 wine, and we persuaded him that it was just as near 
 to go to Bourgueil and then to turn off to Angers.
 
 38 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 We were caught in several showers before reaching 
 Bourgueil, where we stayed the night. 
 
 June 20. Bid good-bye at 6 A.M. to Soherr, 
 who turned off to go to Candes, whilst Talbot and I 
 kept on the direct road to Saumur, where we 
 arrived very hungry. There is nothing like a five 
 leagues' walk to give one an appetite for break- 
 fast. Went to the castle and had a fine view of 
 the Loire and the country around ; later to the 
 Druidical remains ; nothing remarkable except for 
 the size of the stones. In the evening Soherr 
 arrived at our hotel. 
 
 June 21. On the previous evening we had half 
 promised the maitre d 'hotel to go with him to 
 Candes, and we were called at half-past three in 
 the morning, but made various excuses and let him 
 go alone. After again bidding good-bye to Soherr, 
 who started off to Angers, Talbot and I set off 
 along a pretty road to Candes, meeting our maitre 
 on his way back. The church at Candes is very 
 beautiful. We continued on our journey to 
 Fontevrault, where there is a large prison capable 
 of holding fifteen hundred prisoners and an old 
 church of the 12th century. We obtained permis- 
 sion to see the interior of the latter, in which are 
 the tombs of Henry II. and Richard Creur-de-Lion
 
 A WALKING TOUR 39 
 
 of England, with recumbent figures in sandstone. 
 After resting we proceeded to Loudun, a curious 
 old town which had formerly been fortified ; a 
 Roman tower, one of seven, still exists. The town 
 stands on a height in the centre of a large plain 
 with no village near it. It can be seen for a great 
 distance, and when we were at Fontevrault, five 
 leagues away, the town appeared to be quite close. 
 June 22. Left next morning for Mirebeau, and 
 on passing through a small village we heard several 
 voices from an auberge calling upon us to stop. 
 We discovered that these were three young con- 
 scripts going to join their regiments at Poitiers and 
 that they wished to accompany us on the road ; 
 they were surrounded by about twenty of their 
 friends, and there was a good deal of drinking 
 going on. We were obliged to trinquer some very 
 bad wine with them all, including a dragoon en 
 conge, who said to the conscripts " souvenez-vous 
 que vous etes toujours fran^ais." Eventually, after 
 a great deal of leave-taking, the three conscripts 
 set off with us. We walked two leagues, thinking 
 all the way how we could get rid of our friends 
 when we reached an auberge. Having treated 
 them to some wine, we told them we were going 
 to remain for some time, at which they seemed very
 
 40 
 
 sorry and insisted on our having some petits verres 
 with them ; they then left, but one, the best of the 
 lot, stayed behind for a few seconds and asked per- 
 mission to embrace us, il etait si triste ! so we could 
 not refuse. Later two carters offered us a lift, 
 which we gladly accepted, though the seats were 
 not very soft, as the cart was laden with casks. We 
 passed by Mirebeau, not entering into the town, 
 which is surrounded with walls and towers, and 
 went twol eagues farther to Etaples, where we put 
 up at an inn. After having some dinner we took a 
 walk in the neighbourhood, and, on returning to the 
 inn, we were greatly surprised to find that our three 
 conscripts had just arrived with numerous others, all 
 very hot and tired out. They suggested that, as we 
 were all going in the same direction the next morn- 
 ing, we should start together for Poitiers. When 
 we retired to rest we were greatly annoyed to find 
 a room with five beds, four of which were filled 
 with conscripts, the remaining one being left for us. 
 As there was no help for it, we made ourselves as 
 comfortable as we could. 
 
 June 23. The next morning we were awakened 
 by the conscripts dressing, but we lay quite quiet 
 until they had all gone downstairs, deciding to 
 remain in bed until they had started, and it was
 
 A WALKING TOUR 41 
 
 with great pleasure we heard them tramp off. 
 Later we set out for Poitiers, and while passing 
 through the village of Migne we saw women riding 
 astride on horseback, cleverly tucking in their 
 petticoats. After walking four and a half leagues 
 we reached Poitiers, well known for its battlefield. 
 It is an interesting town, containing many curio- 
 sities, including the remains of a Roman amphi- 
 theatre. Visited the very fine cathedral of St. 
 Pierre and the church of St. Jean. As it was the 
 veille of the latter saint, bonfires were lit by the 
 priests in the town. Had a beautiful view from 
 the height which is on one side of the town. 
 
 June 24. Made some sketches in the morning, 
 and left Poitiers in the afternoon, and, passing 
 through the village of Crontille, with a very pretty 
 country all the way, arrived at Vivonne at nine 
 o'clock. 
 
 June 25. Up at 6 A.M., a splendid morning, so set 
 out from Vivonne at once. The weather became so 
 very hot that we stayed at a village cafe until late 
 in the afternoon, and then proceeded to Cliaunay, 
 where we dined. It was such a lovely night that 
 we decided not to go to bed, but to continue our 
 walk throughout the night. At the village ofRiiff'ec 
 we were asked by a gendarme for our passports. He
 
 42 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 was a veritable grogneur. Nevertheless we went 
 to his cabin and had some wine with him. After 
 bidding him adieu we continued on our road, get ting 
 sleepy and very cold near sunrise ; about a hundred 
 conscripts passed us. At last we reached Mansle 
 at five o'clock in the morning, very tired indeed, 
 having walked seven leagues during the day and 
 ten at night. We went to a cafe to have some hot 
 coffee and milk, and whilst it was being prepared 
 we both fell asleep. 
 
 June 26. Woke up after an hour and had our 
 coffee, then set off for Angouleme, seven leagues 
 farther. As we became very footsore, we stopped 
 at a village from 9 A.M. till 3.30 P.M. Eventually, 
 after mounting a steep hill, we arrived at Angouleme 
 and put up at the Hotel Perigueux. After dinner 
 we turned into bed. What enjoyment ! What 
 happiness ! 
 
 June 27. Got up for breakfast, but slept nearly 
 the whole of the day. In the evening we went 
 on the ramparts, which surround the town ; saw 
 a lovely sunset and the full moon rise. In the 
 interesting old town are some towers remaining of 
 an old castle, and the ancient cathedral has some 
 curious sculptures on the exterior. The country 
 around is rich but flat, and the river Charente winds
 
 43 
 
 prettily through the plain. Here we first saw oxen 
 used in place of horses for drawing carts. 
 
 June 28. The weather piping hot. A regiment 
 arrived. I never saw soldiers so covered with dust. 
 Made some sketches in the broiling sun. At 
 lunch we met an old military officer who had 
 been through the Russian campaign ; he tried to 
 make us believe that he knew everything, and 
 told us that in Holland cows were fastened up 
 with silver chains. There was also a young man 
 who talked very grandly about the number of 
 crimes he would commit for the sake of his 
 country. We had just heard of an attempt which 
 had been made on the King's life. Took the 
 coach to Barbezieux, passing on the way the ruin 
 of an old abbey at the village of La Couronne, and 
 at Roullet an old church of the same period as the 
 cathedral at Angouleme. On arrival at Barbezieux 
 we were followed by the Sous-Prdfet, who in- 
 quired whether we were Poles, but on learning 
 that we were English he became very polite and 
 apologised for following us. At the inn the host's 
 daughter, who was very beautiful, sang charmingly. 
 We were much taken with her, and made two 
 clerks very jealous because we got into conversa- 
 tion with her.
 
 44 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 June 29. Up at 5.30 A.M. to catch the coach 
 at six, and owing to the stupidity of the maid we 
 had nothing to eat except a piece of bread until 
 the coach stopped at Montlieu for dejeuner. There 
 were ten passengers in the coach, and it being very 
 hot weather, we were nearly stifled. After passing 
 through a beautiful country we reached St. Andre. 
 We walked forward to the banks of the Gironde 
 and saw the ruins of a castle. The river here is 
 very broad, and there being no bridge, we crossed 
 by a ferry, the boat being drawn by a rope 
 attached to a drum, like a mill, turned by horses. 
 We were all packed in the boat, including the 
 coach and horses, and arrived safely on the other 
 side of the river, although there was some alarm 
 amongst the lady passengers owing to the horses 
 getting fidgety. We started on the coach again. 
 Driving through the vine country for two hours, 
 we came to the hills close to Bordeaux on which 
 the best vines are cultivated, then crossed the 
 bridge over the Garonne into Bordeaux, where 
 Talbot and myself stayed at Hotel de Rouen. 
 
 June 30. Spent an intensely hot day seeing 
 the sights of the town, and attended the launch 
 of a vessel at high tide. Could not sleep at night 
 on account of the heat.
 
 A WALKING TOUR 45 
 
 July 1. Got up at 6 A.M. and made some 
 sketches in the early morning ; as the weather 
 was still extremely hot, could do very little during 
 the day. 
 
 July 2. Walked out to St. Andr and saw 
 the church of St. Michel. On our return we met 
 Soherr, who had just arrived, and we talked over 
 our respective adventures. 
 
 July 3. Visited the church of St. Severin. I 
 determined to continue my tour in the night on 
 account of the heat. Talbot tried to persuade me 
 to wait another day for him, but as he would go only 
 as far as Agen I adhered to my determination. At 
 11.30 P.M. Talbot and Soherr accompanied me to 
 the gate of the town, and I started off alone for 
 Langon. Being a lovely and warm night, I rested 
 by the roadside. I never felt so lonely in my 
 life ; thought of all those at home. Walked nine 
 leagues and stopped at a village near Castres. 
 
 July 4. Slept nearly all day, and set out for 
 Langoit in the evening. Put up at an inn where 
 every one spoke a patois which I could not under- 
 stand. Went down to the river and saw steamers 
 arrive from Bordeaux. 
 
 July 5. Up at 4 A.M. and crossed the bridge 
 just as the sun was rising, a charming effect with
 
 46 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Langon on one side of the river and a ruin of an 
 old castle on the other ; passed several villages in 
 a very pretty country and reached La Reole, where 
 I took the steamer to Marmande. 
 
 July 6. Weather became less oppressive, and 
 I determined to profit by it, making an early start, 
 and at 10 A.M. reached Tonneins, famous for manu- 
 facturing tobacco. Was told that on a clear day 
 the Pyrenees could be seen from here. Pressed on, 
 passed the town of Aiguillon, and arrived at Port 
 St. Marie, where I stayed the night at an inn in 
 a room overlooking the river, which is broad and 
 fine. 
 
 July 7. Started at 4.30 A.M. along a pretty 
 road, with tobacco plantations and a quantity of 
 corn, which was being reaped, on either side ; the 
 hills were now becoming more lofty. Overtook a 
 regiment on the way to Toulouse ; the officers 
 were walking with the men, and all were covered 
 with dust. Passed St. Hilaire and arrived at 
 A gen at 8 P.M., putting up at the Hotel de France. 
 Made some sketches, but nearly the whole of the 
 town is hidden by large trees along a fine promenade 
 beside the river. I had followed the Garonne nearly 
 all the way from Bordeaux. 
 
 July 8. Up late. Visited the very old church
 
 A WALKING TOUR 47 
 
 of St. Caprais and the picturesque Hotel de Ville, 
 which dates from 1665. In the evening took a 
 walk by the river, and saw hundreds of women 
 bathing quite a usual custom. 
 
 July 9. Took the coach to Auch, and as the 
 road is very hilly and the weather still hot, I am 
 glad of the ride. Had dejeuner at Lectoure, a town 
 which has been the birthplace of many generals of 
 the French Army, including Montebello, a marechal 
 under Napoleon. Auch is prettily situated on a 
 hill, and the cathedral, being built in a prominent 
 position, is seen from a great distance. Went 
 to see the famous stained -glass windows which 
 it contains. As a coach for Tarbes arrived from 
 Toulouse, I decided to continue my journey by it. 
 
 July 10. Arrived at Tarbes at 7 A.M. I had 
 slept on the coach as far as Rabastens. Soon after 
 leaving this place I first saw the Pyrenees, which 
 I had long wished to do ; the view made a lasting 
 impression on my mind. A long line of mountains 
 rose from an expansive plain and extended as far 
 as the eye could reach. Above a delicate distant 
 blue, partly hid by mist, could be seen small 
 quantities of snow. The mountains had a grand 
 appearance, and I longed to be amongst them. 
 On reaching the Hotel du Grand Soleil at Tarbes
 
 48 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 I immediately set off to get a nearer view of the 
 mountains. On my return to the town I once 
 more put my knapsack on my back and left with 
 a light heart for Lourdes. How I enjoyed myself 
 with the beautiful view in front of me ! What 
 a splendid sight ! What a variety of colours and 
 forms ! I wished for some one to be with me to 
 partake of my pleasure. I made some sketches, 
 but the scene changed every instant. How happy 
 I felt at seeing mountains for the first time ! 
 They were so beautiful. I never felt so happy. 
 I sang for joy. On entering a pass I came to 
 a village, which on inquiry I understood to be 
 Lourdes. Being Sunday, all the inhabitants were 
 strolling about the street. I asked for the hotel, 
 but as they only spoke a patois, they did not under- 
 stand me, but pointed to a place which I discovered 
 to be a low, dirty inn with a lot of men drinking. 
 I was shown by a woman into a room with two 
 beds, and when I expostulated she tried to console 
 me by saying it was only the servant's bed. I 
 ordered some supper, and whilst waiting outside 
 the door of the inn for it to be prepared, all the 
 men who had been drinking jumped out of a 
 window and stood talking and eyeing me in a 
 peculiar manner. Later two drunken men entered ;
 
 A WALKING TOUR 49 
 
 they were going to Lourdes, which I now found 
 out to be a league farther ; they were very curious 
 to know all about me, and obliged me to drink 
 with them. When they discovered that I was 
 also on the way to Lourdes, they wanted me to 
 accompany them. On my refusing, they whispered 
 to me on the sly that the place was not to be 
 trusted, and told me about a murder and the body 
 being thrown in a pit. I began to be really 
 frightened, and when supper was at last served it 
 was so bad that I could not touch it. Fortunately 
 a cart was driven up to the door of the inn, and 
 the carter invited me to ride with him to Lourdes, 
 which I instantly decided to do. The woman of 
 the house looked very black when she saw that I 
 was determined to leave, and I put my large knife 
 up my sleeve as a precaution, but the carter soon 
 dissolved my fears. He turned out to be a good 
 fellow, and we had a long talk over his campaign 
 in Spain. We reached Lourdes all safely at ten 
 o'clock at night ; the carter directed me to a decent 
 hotel, and after bidding him adieu I entered and 
 ordered a good supper. 
 
 July 11. Up and off by 6 A.M. Am now in 
 the interior of the Pyrenees, surrounded on all 
 sides by beautiful mountains in the greatest variety,
 
 50 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 with a torrent, the Gave, rushing through the 
 valley of Argeles, in the middle of which are the 
 ruins of several castles. Arrived at Argeles, where 
 I breakfasted, then walked two more leagues to 
 Pierrefitte. After having rested there during the 
 heat of the day, I climbed a very steep road 
 by the side of a mountain, with an impetuous 
 torrent on the other side, leaping from rock to 
 rock and falling in deep cascades ; the valley 
 was nearly closed in with mountains, so grand 
 and sublime. It was one of the finest walks 1 
 ever had in my life to Cauterets, where I took 
 up my quarters. 
 
 July 12. Started off on an expedition to Lac 
 de Gaube without my knapsack. Met several 
 invalids being carried from the Baths higher up 
 the mountains, and continued to ascend a good 
 road, passing a very pretty cascade, to Pont 
 (CEspagne, which I crossed, and entered into the 
 valley beyond, the wildest I had yet seen ; of quite 
 a different character of scenery with huge masses 
 of rocks partly covered with pines. Afterwards I 
 climbed up a path to the lake, beautifully situated, 
 being entirely surrounded by mountains of great 
 height, towering above it. Here I met three 
 Englishmen, with whom I returned to Cauterets.
 
 A WALKING TOUR 51 
 
 On the way we met some Spanish smugglers 
 queer-looking fellows. 
 
 July 13. Left Cauterets with great regret at 
 six o'clock in the morning and retraced my steps to 
 Pierrefitte, intending to go to Bareges ; but I 
 changed my mind and continued back through 
 Argeles to Lourdes, where I turned off to the 
 right to Bagneres-de-Bigorre. I arrived in the 
 evening, having walked fourteen leagues, but I 
 was not much tired, as so many beautiful views 
 did not give me time to think of fatigue. 
 
 July 14. Remained at Bagneres-de-Bigorre all 
 day, but was disappointed with the place. 
 
 July 15. Up at 5 A.M., and started for St. 
 Gaudens along a charming road; passed through 
 Escaliadieu and Lannemeza?i, having breakfast at 
 the latter village. Arrived at St. Gaudens very 
 tired, having walked all day. Took my departure 
 at ten o'clock the same night in a coach for 
 Toulouse* where I arrived at eight o'clock the next 
 morning, having slept during nearly the whole of 
 the journey. 
 
 July 16. Remained all day at Toulouse and 
 visited the quays and bridges ; tried to make some 
 sketches, but a storm forced me to seek shelter. 
 
 July 17. After walking on the promenade of
 
 52 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Lafayette, etc., and seeing the churches of St. 
 Etienne and St. Sernin, I made various sketches. 
 I took the coach to Narbonne in the evening. 
 
 July 18. Travelled all night and the greater 
 part of the next day on the coach. There was little 
 to see on the road excepting the picturesque town 
 of Carcassonne, with its old tower situated on a 
 hill and surrounded by walls. As usual, I was 
 more fatigued by riding than walking, besides 
 being almost stifled by heat and dust. Arrived at 
 Narbonne at last. The town is famous for honey. 
 It is situated on a plain, and has an antiquated 
 appearance. A branch of the Canal du Midi 
 passes through the town, but I was unable to 
 make a sketch of it, as it is so closed in by walls. 
 
 July 19. Up at 5.30 A.M. and set off to Beziers, 
 and soon caught a distant view of the Mediter- 
 ranean. Stopped at Beziers to lunch and rested 
 during the heat of the day ; continued my walk to 
 P^zenas ; began to feel very tired, as one of my 
 feet was very painful. Fortunately a man riding a 
 donkey overtook me, and put my knapsack in his 
 basket, which was a great relief. We chatted all 
 the way to Pezenas. I went to Hotel des Trois 
 Pigeons, and soon to bed, as I was never before so 
 tired.
 
 A WALKING TOUR -53 
 
 July 20. Woke at 5 A.M., and started along a 
 pretty road bordered with lime, almond, and olive 
 trees ; stopped at a spring and rested my foot, 
 which still troubled me, and reached Meze in 
 time for breakfast, a pretty place on the Etang du 
 Thau. The boats with lateen sails give it quite 
 an Italian appearance. I decided to rest here for 
 a day. 
 
 July 21. Took the coach to MontpelUer, 
 arriving at 2 P.M. Visited the cathedral and 
 the promenade, where there was an exceedingly 
 fine view, the mountains on one side and the sea 
 on the other. Met a Monsieur Fils at the hotel, 
 and we arranged to go together to Toulon. 
 
 July 22. Up at 5.30 A.M. and made some 
 sketches with Monsieur Fils, who left by coach 
 for Nimes, where I joined him later. 
 
 July 23. Arrived at Nimes at 4 A.M., having 
 travelled by coach all night. Visited the Amphi- 
 theatre and the Maison Carree ; afterwards went 
 to the Gardens to see the Temple of Diana and 
 the Bath of Augustus. Took the coach with 
 Monsieur Fils to Beaucaire, with its old castle, 
 prettily situated on the Rhone, with Tarascon on 
 the other side of the river. Had arranged to take 
 the boat in the evening to Aries, but it never
 
 54 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 arrived, and as the town was so full on account of 
 a fair being held, we were compelled to find some 
 lodgings a little way out of it ; even then we could 
 only get a mattress on a floor. 
 
 July 24. We were so disturbed by flies that 
 we were glad to get out of our lodgings at four 
 o'clock in the morning, when we met a man, whose 
 acquaintance we had made on the road to Beaucaire, 
 wandering about in search of his lodgings ; on his 
 arrival he had taken some rooms, where he left his 
 luggage and put the key in his pocket, but he 
 forgot to note the name of the street or the 
 number of the house. After helping him for some 
 time without success we left him to his fate. 
 Took the steamer, which had arrived in the early 
 morning, to Aries, where we transferred into 
 another steamer for Marseilles. I was delighted 
 with the change from dusty roads. I climbed the 
 foremast and sat on the yard-arm till the steamer 
 reached the mouth of the river. At last I was on 
 the blue Mediterranean. The steamer took a turn 
 out to sea, and in a few hours we arrived at 
 Marseilles, which looks very fine on approaching it 
 from the bay, with the mountains behind it. 
 
 July 25. Strolled about the town and visited 
 the harbour and fortifications. In the evening
 
 A WALKING TOUR 55 
 
 took the coach for Toulon, along a road which 
 passes through a very mountainous country. 
 
 July 26. Arrived at Toulon at 4 A.M. and put 
 up at the Hotel de France. Fils having obtained 
 a pass, we visited the Arsenal ; the sight of so 
 many criminals was revolting. I never saw such a 
 set of wretches with every crime written on their 
 faces ; they were all dressed in red jackets and 
 numbered, and nearly every one had chains on his 
 legs. I was glad to get away. 
 
 July 27. Up early and sketched all day. 
 Saw a man-of-war come into the port, and climbed 
 on the heights to obtain a view of the lies 
 d'Hyeres. Returned in a coach to Marseilles. 
 During the night, whilst walking up one of the 
 hills, I saw the full moon through the mountains 
 shining on the Mediterranean a glorious sight. 
 
 July 28. My twenty-fourth birthday. On 
 arrival at Marseilles went to bed till 8 A.M. 
 Visited the quays and made a number of sketches 
 of merchantmen coming into harbour. 
 
 July 29. Fils woke me at 2 A.M. to say good-bye, 
 as he was starting for Sisteron. I was to leave by 
 coach at six for Aix, but fell asleep again, and did 
 not wake until a few minutes before that hour. 
 Hurried into my clothes, but found the coach had
 
 56 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 already started, so got a man to carry my knapsack 
 and ran after it, catching it up about a mile out of 
 the town as it was ascending a hill ; arrived at Aiac 
 at 9 A.M. Intended to make some sketches, but 
 unable on account of the heat. I had decided to 
 take the coach to Avignon, but it was so full that 
 I went by another one to Orgon. 
 
 July 30. Arrived at Orgon at 3 A.M. Was told 
 the coach for Avignon would pass through at 6 A.M., 
 but they could not ensure my obtaining a seat, so 
 I decided to walk. Had not proceeded far when 
 the coach overtook me, and I was tempted by an 
 offer to take me to Avignon for thirty sous. The 
 picturesque town is entirely surrounded by walls, 
 and has a pretty promenade with lime-trees on the 
 banks of the Rhone, which is very broad here, 
 and over it is a wooden bridge, and there are also 
 remains of one built in the 12th century. Saw the 
 Palace of the Popes, which has more the appear- 
 ance of a prison with its severe towers ; also visited 
 the cathedral, containing some fine monuments. 
 
 July 31. Tried to sketch, but the wind blew so 
 hard that it was impossible to do anything. Took 
 the coach in the evening to Orange. Having the 
 box seat and no overcoat, I was nearly frozen by 
 the cold wind. Put up at a miserable inn. There
 
 A WALKING TOUR 57 
 
 was no bolt to my bedroom door, so I placed a 
 chair against it and my money under my pillow. 
 I was just dropping off to sleep when I heard a 
 noise. I jumped out of bed and saw a man with a 
 lantern. He made an excuse of wanting to fetch 
 something, but I am not sure that he had not 
 some other intention. 
 
 August 1. Roamed about the town, and 
 saw a very beautiful Roman triumphal arch. 
 Determined if possible to continue my walk by 
 side of the river my original intention. I started 
 across the country by a cross-road, but after some 
 time I found myself on the main road only about 
 three miles off' Orange. I continued to Manias, 
 where I made a sketch of the picturesque castle of 
 Montdragon, situated on a perpendicular rock 
 above the village ; then proceeded to La Palude, 
 where I stopped the night at the Hotel des Postes. 
 
 August 2. Had experienced so much heat on 
 the previous day that I got up early and was on 
 the road again by 4 A.M. ; rested at Donzere. After 
 leaving this village I was overtaken by a patache, 
 the worst description of coach ever invented, and 
 I was, to my sorrow, tempted by an offer to take 
 me to Montclimar for ten sous. I was almost 
 suffocated by heat, and every bone in my body was
 
 58 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 nearly dislocated by the jolting. Arrived at the 
 Hotel des Princes at 10 A.M. ; took a stroll by the 
 side of the little river which flows into the Rhone, 
 with a charming view of the Dauphin^ mountains 
 in the distance. 
 
 August 3. Up again at 4 A.M. and started for 
 Valence, resting at Loriol on the road, which is 
 very beautiful as it approaches the Rhone. My 
 foot began to trouble me again, so I took a 
 seat on a coach, and arrived at Valence in the 
 afternoon. 
 
 August 4. Decided to rest here all day and 
 made some sketches by the river. 
 
 August 5. Started at 4 A.M. for Tain. Just 
 before reaching it the road passes close to the river, 
 and there is a beautiful view with Tain on one side 
 and Tournon, with the ruins of an old castle, on the 
 other. On account of the beauty of the place I 
 had intended to remain at Tain, but I got into 
 such bad quarters that I was quite disgusted. 
 Determined to walk on to St. Vallier. The weather 
 now seemed inclined to change, and some heavy 
 black clouds came up and produced some beauti- 
 ful effects over the hills, but there was no rain. 
 How I longed for a shower ! It was now about two 
 months since I had felt a drop of rain, and had
 
 A WALKING TOUR 59 
 
 hardly seen a cloud ; nothing but continuous blue 
 sky and burning heat. Arrived at St. Vallier, and 
 put up at a hotel which was worse than the one 
 I had left, and as there was no other, I was 
 compelled to stay. Rain came during the night, 
 and everybody, including myself, was delighted. 
 Everything was parched up, the grapes were very 
 small, and there were neither vegetables nor grain. 
 
 August 6. Took a seat in a small coach to L>e 
 Peage, and from there I walked six leagues to 
 Vienne, along a very interesting road close to the 
 river, with a view of the hills opposite and the 
 Dauphine' mountains in the distance. Visited the 
 fine Gothic cathedral. Was much annoyed by 
 being woke up in the middle of the night to admit 
 a traveller to sleep in a spare bed which was in the 
 room. 
 
 August 7. Passed the day making sketches 
 beside the river of the picturesque town. 
 
 August 8. The last day of my tramp. Started 
 at 4 A.M. as usual and walked to Lyons. Here I 
 remained for some days waiting for remittances, 
 which arrived on the 13th. I at once booked a 
 seat in the banquette of the diligence for Paris, 
 and started at ten o'clock the same evening. 
 When we had passed Macon and Chalons we
 
 60 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 experienced a tremendous thunderstorm, the light- 
 ning being exceptionally vivid, which frightened 
 the horses so much that the conductor had to 
 get down and lead them. After having spent 
 three days and nights on the road, passing through 
 Auxerre and Sens, I arrived safely in Paris on 
 Tuesday, the 16th August. During the nearly 
 two months and a half which I had been absent, 
 I had traversed 681 leagues, or about 1700 miles, 
 and the entire cost of the journey was only twenty 
 pounds.
 
 i >4 
 
 TRENT. 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 LIFE IN PARIS (continued) 
 
 ON the return from my tour I at once com- 
 menced hard work again with my pupils, and by 
 putting effects into numerous drawings on wood 
 by other artists, for Giradon and other publishers. 
 It was from Giradon that I obtained a copy of 
 Turner's " Southern Coast," and of " England and 
 Wales," the possession of which has always been a 
 great pleasure to me. I was always studying them 
 in those days, and I am sure they were a great 
 help to me in every way. 
 
 61
 
 62 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 In the autumn of 1836 my old friend, Charles 
 Bentley, came over to Paris on a visit. I was 
 delighted to see him, and this was the first time 
 Bentley, Edge, and myself had met together since 
 we were pupils under Fielding. 
 
 In October, Bentley, Outhwaite (an engraver) 
 and myself took a trip to Rouen and Havre, 
 making sketches by the way. Outhwaite and I, 
 after seeing Bentley off by steamer back to 
 England, returned to Paris. 
 
 In the next year, 1837, I was fully engaged in 
 making drawings for the work on North America, 
 also in retouching the set of wood engravings for 
 the G-allery at Versailles. Giradon introduced 
 me to Charles Heath, the London publisher, who 
 commissioned me to make a series of original 
 drawings for a work to be entitled, Les Fastes de 
 Versailles. Editions were subsequently published 
 in Paris in French, and in London in English. 
 For this purpose I obtained permission to visit the 
 private gardens and the Trianon at Versailles. 
 About this time the Comte de Noe called upon 
 me to obtain some drawings for the Societd des 
 Amis des Arts, of which he was President. I 
 supplied him with two paintings, one of which, 
 " The Port of Marseilles," was won by King Louis
 
 WIMBLEDON 
 
 (Size 10J x 7J inches.)
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 63 
 
 Philippe in a lottery. I continued my acquaint- 
 ance with the Count, and from time to time sold 
 other drawings to him for lotteries. I was very 
 busy with my pupils, and received commissions for 
 water-colour paintings from picture -dealers both 
 in Paris and London, so that I was enabled to add 
 to my small savings which I had started at the 
 Bank in 1834. Being sadly in need of a rest, I, 
 accompanied by my brother John, paid a visit to 
 England, first to London, and afterwards to Great 
 Yarmouth, where I sketched boats and shipping 
 scenes. Later I went with Bentley for a trip 
 round the Isle of Wight, travelling to Portsmouth 
 by coach. We both made numerous studies 
 of marine subjects. On returning to Paris in 
 November, I and my brother went by boat from 
 London to Boulogne. On account of the tide the 
 steamer was compelled to anchor off Dover all night, 
 and crossed the Channel the next morning. 
 
 I sent a water-colour drawing to a local Ex- 
 hibition at Boulogne -sur-Mer, for which I was 
 awarded a silver medal. I was principally painting 
 sea-pieces at the time ; they were quite a novelty 
 in Paris, and I received many orders for them from 
 Durand-lluel. 
 
 In the following year, 1838, the Princess
 
 64 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Clementine requested to see the sketches which I 
 had made in the South of France, and gave me a 
 commission to make paintings from two of them. 
 I was one day surprised, at my atelier, by a visit 
 from Alexandre Dumas, the famous novelist, uho 
 came to invite me to join him in a trip to the 
 South of France ; he was going to write his 
 Impressions de Voyage, and he wished me to 
 supply the illustrations, but owing to my numerous 
 pupils and many engagements I was compelled to 
 decline his request. 
 
 Acting upon the advice of John Lewis and my 
 friend Bentley, I sent three drawings to the Old 
 Water-Colour Society in support of my candida- 
 ture for election, and on the 15th February I 
 received the gratifying intelligence that I had been 
 unanimously elected an Associate. For some 
 time previously it had been my ambition to become 
 associated with this grand Society, yet when the 
 news of my election reached me I could scarcely 
 believe it to be true, not having sufficient con- 
 fidence in my own powers to think that I should ever 
 succeed. A new incentive for work in the future ! 
 The following notice appeared in the Spectator : 
 
 The Water-Colour Society last week filled one of two 
 vacancies by electing a Mr. William Callow, landscape and
 
 FISHING BOATS OFF THE COAST OF FRANCE 
 (Size 10f x 7J inctits.)
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 65 
 
 marine painter, not known in this country, but who has 
 studied in the French School, we have heard, and is of the 
 dashing style of execution. There were several candidates, 
 most of whom possessed as much merit as many of the present 
 members, but the Society has wisely raised the standard of 
 qualification, so that the future aspirants will be required to 
 exhibit matured excellence to render them eligible. 
 
 I learnt later that Cattermole had strongly 
 supported my candidature, and Copley Fielding, 
 who had known me since I was quite a small boy, 
 had spoken of me in the highest terms of praise. 
 It was a rule of the Society not to elect, as an 
 associate or member, an artist residing out of 
 England, but an exception was made in my case, 
 and being unable to leave Paris on account of my 
 work, I sent my contributions to the first two 
 Exhibitions from there. I became acquainted 
 with the Comte Stackelberg, a Russian noble, and 
 members of his family, also Baronne Mayendorff, 
 and the family of Cherniticheflf, Viceroy of Poland, 
 many of whom became my pupils. John Lewis 
 again stayed in Paris during this summer, and we 
 frequently met at Sch welter's studio. 
 
 I returned to England to witness the Corona- 
 tion of Queen Victoria, which I did both at West- 
 minster and in the Park in company with Bentley. 
 Whilst in London I called on Charles Heath, the
 
 66 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 publisher, who gave me an introduction to J. M. W. 
 Turner. On presenting myself at his residence 
 in Queen Anne Street, the door was opened by his 
 old housekeeper, who requested me to wait in the 
 hall whilst she delivered the letter to Mr. Turner. 
 To my surprise, Turner himself came out to me, 
 and upon my asking permission to see his gallery, 
 he abruptly though kindly said, "Go up." So 
 upstairs I went, delighted not only at getting an 
 opportunity of seeing his wonderful paintings, but 
 at meeting the painter himself. It was a painful 
 surprise, however, to find Turner's gallery in a most 
 dilapidated condition. Many of the pictures, some 
 on the ground and others leaning against the wall, 
 were cracked and damaged ; the walls were in a de- 
 plorable state of damp, with the paper hanging down 
 in strips. I remained a long time admiring his 
 beautiful painting, and on going downstairs no one 
 appeared, so I had quietly to let myself out at 
 the front door without having an opportunity of 
 thanking Turner for his kindness. My recollection 
 of Turner is that of a short, dark man, inclined to 
 stoutness, with a merry twinkle in his eye. The 
 next time I met Turner was at Venice, at the 
 Hotel Europa, where we sat opposite at meals and 
 entered into conversation. One evening whilst I
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 67 
 
 was enjoying a cigar in a gondola I saw Turner in 
 another one sketching San Giorgio, brilliantly lit 
 up by the setting sun. I felt quite ashamed of 
 myself idling away my time whilst he was hard at 
 work so late. 
 
 In the autumn of 1838 I made my first tour in 
 Switzerland. I took the dilgence to Dijon, on which 
 I made the acquaintance of a Mr. Forman, and we 
 agreed to travel together. From Dijon we crossed 
 the plains of Burgundy to Besancon and Pontarlier. 
 From the latter place we took the Swiss post over 
 the Jura mountains to Lausanne. Here, shoulder- 
 ing our knapsacks we started off and walked to 
 Vevey, where, after making some sketches, we con- 
 tinued to Villeneuve, on the borders of the Lake 
 of Geneva, and took the steamer to Geneva. We 
 left the next day at 3 A.M., and walked along a 
 beautiful road to Bonneville. Arrived very tired 
 and knocked up by the heat. On the following day, 
 after resting during the heat at Cluses, we reached 
 St. Martin late in the evening. We then proceeded 
 through the valley of Servoz and a beautiful gorge 
 to the valley of Chamouny, surrounded by Mont 
 Blanc and other mountains. We made an excursion 
 to the Mer de Glace, taking a mule, which we rode 
 in turns up to Montanvert, then across the ice up
 
 68 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 to Le Couvercle, and arrived at the Jardin, where we 
 rested and returned to Chamouny. The next day 
 we went with guides up Mont Blanc. We after- 
 wards proceeded to Nantborrant ; from there we 
 went down to Les Chapieux, and ascended Col de la 
 Seigne, where I made some sketches of the beauti- 
 ful view, the Aiguilles and Mont Blanc above us, 
 and Lake Combal and the Alice Blanche below. 
 We then proceeded to Aosta. Next day we left 
 with a party of eight and two guides for St. Remy, 
 the Hospital of St. Bernard, where we saw the 
 monks, the famous dogs, and the chapel. I thought 
 of Rogers' lines " promising bread to the hungry, and 
 to the weary rest." From St. Remy we descended 
 to Liddes in a thunderstorm, and reached Martigny 
 the same evening. On the following day I and 
 Forman had to part company. I set out to Sion, 
 and then proceeded up to Loueche, where I went 
 with a guide up the rocks. Afterwards I walked 
 to Thun, and took the steamer to Unterseen, beauti- 
 fully situated on the lake, and proceeded to Inter- 
 laken. On the following day I hired a guide and 
 went through the valley of Lauterbrunnen, visited 
 the Staubbach, where the Jungfrau, covered with 
 snow, could be seen, and climbed up the Wengern 
 Alp, arriving at the chalet, where I was the only
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 69 
 
 traveller. The next morning I was called by the 
 innkeeper to see an avalanche. Afterwards I left 
 for the valley of Grindelwald, crossing the Scheidegg 
 at the foot of the Wetterhorn, and stopped at 
 Rosenlaui, a very pretty spot. Saw during the 
 descent the cascade of Reichenbach. Then pro- 
 ceeded to Meiringen, where I hired another guide 
 and started for the Grimsel, turning on one side to 
 see the beautiful waterfall of Handegg, and pass- 
 ing over immense blocks of granite to Grimsel. I 
 next walked alongside the Glacier du Rhone to 
 Andermatt ; passed at the foot of St. Gotthard and 
 visited the Devil's Bridge. On the following day 
 I started through the valley of the Reuss, passing 
 through Amstag and Altdorf, where William Tell 
 was born, to Fliielen, close to the lake of the 
 Quatre Cantons. Visited Tell's Chapel and 
 Brunnen and back to Fliielen, where I took the 
 steamboat to Lucerne and went to see the Lion of 
 Thorwaldsen. The next day by coach to Zurich, 
 where I made some sketches, and afterwards took a 
 steamer to Rappenschwyl; thence by coach to Wesen 
 on Lake of Wallenstadt. Proceeded to Ragatz 
 and made an excursion to the Bains de Pfeffers. 
 Next posted to Rorschack on Lake Constance, and 
 down the lake by steamer to Constance. On the
 
 70 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 following day posted to Schaffhausen and saw the 
 Falls of the Rhine. Then quitted with great 
 regret the mountain scenery of Switzerland and 
 posted to Freiburg, where I took the coach to 
 Strasbourg, reaching there at half-past eleven at 
 night, and being kept for half an hour at the gates 
 of the town by the custom-house officers. Then 
 proceeded by coach to Baden-Baden, Carlsruhe, 
 and Heidelberg. The last-named town proved so 
 interesting that I remained there for five days 
 making sketches. Proceeded by coach to Frankfort 
 and Mayence. I now commenced walking again 
 with my knapsack on my back, and reached 
 Kudesheim, where I saw the beauties of the Rhine 
 for the first time, and crossed the river to Bingen. 
 Next proceeded on foot to Bacharach and Pfalz, 
 passing many old castles romantically situated on 
 the tops of hills overlooking the river, and reached 
 Oberwesel, with its fine castle of Schonburg. At 
 the hotel I tried to speak German, and on asking 
 for some wine they brought me cold meat. Con- 
 tinued my walk to St. Goar, and crossed the river 
 to see the castle of Katz. Proceeded along a 
 path beside the river to Boppart and Coblenz, 
 where I crossed the bridge of boats to visit 
 Ehrenbreitstein. Next continued to Andernach,
 
 THE MARKET-PLACE, MALIXES (1884) 
 , (Size 30 X 20J inches.)
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 71 
 
 and then to Remagen, and finished my walking 
 tour at Bonn, where I took the steamer to Cologne 
 and posted on from there to Aix-la-Chapelle and 
 then to Liege, where I took the train the railway 
 had not long been opened to Brussels, and thence 
 by diligence v id Valenciennes and Noyons to Paris, 
 reaching it after an absence of ten weeks. 
 Travelling in those days was not at all like what it 
 is at the present time. English was not under- 
 stood, and having no knowledge of the German 
 language, I was compelled to make signs for nearly 
 everything I required during the three weeks I 
 was in Germany, especially in the Moselle district. 
 
 On my return to Paris I found that the Princess 
 Clementine was staying at Neuilly, so I had to 
 walk there each morning to give her a drawing 
 lesson at eight o'clock in the morning. In order 
 to be there in time I was obliged to get up at six, 
 my brother making me a cup of tea before I 
 started, and I had my breakfast on my return. 
 This I continued to do even through the winter 
 months. 
 
 In 1839 I received a second silver medal at the 
 Exhibition of Cambrai for water-colour drawings 
 which I sent there. I also obtained a bronze 
 medal at the Rouen Exhibition. In this year
 
 72 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 J. Mackenzie, the Treasurer of the Old Water- 
 Colour Society, came to Paris to make some 
 drawings for the work on Versailles, on which I 
 was already engaged. He was commissioned to 
 execute a few architectural subjects, chiefly 
 interiors of the grand galleries of the Palace, whilst 
 I drew the gardens, fountains, Trianon, and the 
 Or anger ie. 
 
 About this time emeutes were a frequent 
 occurrence in Paris, and my brother and I had one 
 or two narrow escapes as we used to run out at 
 the sound of the rappel on the drums to see 
 what would happen. It was also in this year, the 
 tenth of my residence in Paris, that I had the 
 honour of being introduced to the Due d'Aumale 
 whilst giving a lesson to the Princess at St. Cloud. 
 
 In the autumn my brother and I paid a visit to 
 England, travelling by a new route. We took the 
 diligence to St. Valery, and thence went by a steamer, 
 the Castor, direct to London. The navigation of 
 the Somme was very difficult, owing to the river 
 being almost choked with sand ; consequently the 
 boats only ran for one season. On my return to 
 Paris I received an invitation from the Comte de 
 Noe to dinner, at which I met his son, the noted 
 caricaturist, well known as "Cham," whose
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 73 
 
 drawings were reproduced in Le Charivari and 
 
 other publications. I also received commissions 
 from the Princess Clementine and from the Due de 
 Nemours for drawings to present to their friends. 
 
 In this year Messrs. Moon, Boys and Graves, 
 the publishers, had brought out a lithographic 
 work on Old Paris executed by Thomas Shotter 
 Boys, cousin to the member of the firm, and I was 
 asked by them to present a copy to King Louis 
 Philippe, which I did through the Princess. It 
 was graciously accepted, and shortly afterwards 
 a diamond ring was sent by the King to the 
 publishers. My friend, T. S. Boys, was terribly 
 disappointed, as he was the person who should have 
 received the present ; the mistake occurred through 
 the publishers, and not the artist, sending the 
 book. 
 
 In 1840 I attended a grand representation 
 of Racine's play Andromaque at the Theatre 
 Francais, in which Mdlle. Rachel took part. It 
 was followed by a comedy, in which Mdlle. Mars, 
 though seventy years of age, played the character 
 of a young girl ; she had long retired from the 
 stage, and reappeared only for this special occasion. 
 It was a memorable performance, as Mdlle. Mars 
 
 was the oldest actress, and Mdlle. Rachel the 
 
 10
 
 74 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 youngest in Paris at that time. The Royal Family 
 were all present, and the Princess presented me 
 with a ticket of admission, particularly requesting 
 that I should make use of it myself, as they wished 
 to be surrounded by those who were loyal to them. 
 
 In this year I was awarded a silver medal for 
 my drawings exhibited at the Rouen Exhibition, 
 the second I had received from that town. I was 
 also successful in obtaining a gold medal at the 
 Paris Salon. I was to have received it from the 
 hands of the King, but owing to a disturbance, the 
 official presentation of prizes was abandoned. I 
 was also fortunate enough to win a picture in 
 a Fine Art Lottery at Lyons. I sold it for five 
 hundred francs without even seeing it. 
 
 I paid a short visit to London to judge the 
 effect of my own drawings on the walls of the Old 
 Water-Colour Society's gallery at the annual 
 Exhibition, and returned to Paris accompanied by 
 my friend Bentley. I may mention here that on 
 each anniversary of the Revolution King Louis 
 Philippe caused it to be commemorated by three 
 days' fetes. Every kind of amusement which could 
 be devised was provided for the people ; theatres and 
 cafes were open free, prizes were awarded for climb- 
 ing greasy poles and other sports, including aquatic
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 75 
 
 ones on the river, and finally a grand display of 
 fireworks in the Place de la Concorde wound up 
 the fetes. All this was done by the King in order 
 to try and please the people, in spite of which 
 constant attempts were being made on his life. 1 
 remember on one occasion after a review, as the 
 King, accompanied by some officers, was passing 
 along the Boulevards, a shot was fired from a 
 window ; it fortunately missed him, but wounded 
 several of the officers. 
 
 In the autumn of this year I made my first visit 
 to Italy. I was accompanied for some part of the 
 time by Forman, who had been with me two years 
 previously on the tour through Switzerland. We 
 left Paris by diligence for Dijon, and then crossed 
 the Jura mountains to Geneva, where we stopped 
 and sketched. We next passed on the left side 
 of the lake through Lausanne and Vevey to St. 
 Maurice, where we changed diligences and arrived 
 at Brieg. The next day we crossed the Simplon 
 Pass and reached Domo d'Ossola at 11 P.M. After 
 sleeping for a few hours on a sofa we took the malic 
 poste in the early morning to Arona on Lago Mag- 
 giore. Here we stayed and sketched. Afterwards 
 crossed the lake to Angera to see the picturesque 
 castle, and made a trip up the lake by steamer to
 
 76 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 enjoy the scenery. On the same evening we took a 
 carriage to Bellinzona, and made some sketches in 
 the very picturesque town with its old walls and 
 towers before breakfast the next morning. Later 
 we proceeded to Lugano, passing over Mont 
 Cannero, and witnessing some splendid views on 
 the road. The next day we left by coach for 
 Como, crossed the lake in a boat, and arrived there 
 in the evening. On the following day we took a 
 steamer up the lake, which is smaller but prettier 
 than Maggiore, and went ashore at Bellaggio. Here, 
 although there was no hotel, we obtained some very 
 comfortable quarters and stayed the night. We 
 took a delightful sail up the lake, but, owing to a 
 contrary wind, could only reach Gravedona, where it 
 was impossible to stay, as every cottage was so dirty ; 
 consequently we returned as far as Domaso. Next 
 day, after sailing for seven hours, we managed to 
 reach Cadenabbia, opposite to Bellaggio, then took 
 the steamer back to Como, being very much pleased 
 with the trip. Sketched all the next day at Como 
 and left in the evening for Milan in a velociferi, 
 a long vehicle holding about twenty people, and 
 after four hours' jolting arrived at the capital 
 of Lombardy, where we inspected the cathedral, 
 the Scala, and other fine buildings. Left Milan
 
 - * t 
 
 j . , _ 
 
 '
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 77 
 
 at midnight, passing through a splendidly rich 
 country, and, skirting Lake Garda for some distance, 
 arrived at Verona in the evening, after having been 
 almost stifled by dust and heat. We were much 
 interested in this town, with whole streets of 
 fine palaces, intermingled with Roman and other 
 antiquities, the tombs of the Scaligeri, the old bridge, 
 and amphitheatre. Next we proceeded to Padua, 
 with its arcaded streets and two remarkable 
 churches, in one of which we saw a beautiful paint- 
 ing by Paul Veronese. Being anxious to arrive at 
 Venice, we took the matte poste to Mestre, where 
 we embarked in a gondola, traversing for several 
 miles over the lagoons, and arrived in the evening 
 at the steps of Hotel Europa, delighted with our 
 first view of the Queen of the Adriatic. We 
 stayed for ten days, seeing all the wonderful sights 
 and making many sketches. We left Venice with 
 great regret and returned to Padua, whence we 
 posted to Ferrara, and then on to Bologna. Here 
 we saw the castle of the Dukes of Ferrara, a fine 
 fortress, the cathedral, and the leaning tower, all of 
 which I sketched. The next day we started in a 
 vettura in company with two others for Florence, 
 having to be drawn by oxen at a snail's pace across 
 the Apennines. We slept at a solitary habitation,
 
 78 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Albergo del Nolta, in sight of Monte di Fo, 
 and after two days' travelling arrived at Florence. 
 Here we remained for four days sketching all the 
 wonderful buildings. Forman being obliged to 
 return to Paris, I proceeded by myself in a vettura 
 to Rome. The journey took six days. Stopped 
 the first night at Arezzo, the birthplace of Petrarch, 
 then quitted the Tuscan States and entered those 
 of the Pope. From the Custom-house there is a 
 beautiful view over Lake Trasimeno, near to which 
 Hannibal obtained a famous victory over the 
 Romans. Arrived at Perugia on the third day and 
 visited the cathedral ; afterwards took a carriage 
 to Assisi and saw the famous convent of St. 
 Francis, remarkable for the three churches built 
 one above the other. We then proceeded to Foligno, 
 and then on to Spoleto, where I made a sketch of 
 the town and gateway where Hannibal's progress 
 received a check from the inhabitants. Next 
 reached Terni, where I saw the cascade and the 
 villa where Queen Caroline resided. Continued 
 the journey, passing Narni, with the Roman bridge 
 built by Augustus Caesar, and along a splendid road 
 across the mountains and arrived at Nepi. On 
 the last day we crossed the Campagna, beautiful in 
 its barrenness no trees, no water, nor cultivation
 
 ferf 
 
 
 
 ifvsa
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 79 
 
 of any kind, and not even a house, but how 
 many reflections it causes in one's mind and 
 arrived at last at Rome, entering it by the Porta 
 del Popolo. Here 1 remained for ten days enjoy- 
 ing all the wonderful sights of that marvellous city. 
 Afterwards I left for Naples, stopping a night at 
 Terracina by the way, and reached Naples on the 
 following day, visiting Herculaneum and Vesuvius. 
 Next I took the railway to Castellamare and 
 walked to Torre del Greco, where I hired a 
 donkey and went to Castel Lettere and Gragnano ; 
 afterwards to Pompeii, in which place I was greatly 
 interested. From there I proceeded to Torre del 
 Greco, and then back by rail to Naples. On the 
 next day I took the steamer Francisco Primo for 
 Marseilles. It came on to blow so hard during the 
 middle of the first night that the steamer was 
 nearly swamped by the heavy seas, which stove 
 in two deck cabins, carried away some of the 
 boats, and filled the main cabin half full with water. 
 We stopped at Leghorn and Genoa, and, after 
 a boisterous voyage, finally reached Marseilles. 
 Here I remained for two days, revisiting with 
 pleasure many spots which I had seen during my 
 previous stay. I then took the diligence for 
 Lyons, passing along the road by Avignon and
 
 80 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Orange which I tramped on foot in 1836. I was 
 obliged to stop at Lyons for two days, being unable 
 to secure a seat on a diligence. I eventually 
 obtained one, and after the diligence had pro- 
 ceeded some way on the road we were detained 
 for six hours at one place owing to an inundation. 
 Finally we reached Paris without any further 
 mishap. Travelling from one place to another in 
 those days was no easy matter, especially in Italy. 
 The vetturino generally started at a very early hour 
 in the morning, stopped during the intense heat of 
 the day for the passengers to rest, and proceeded 
 on its journey in the evening. All the way from 
 Rome to Naples the matte poste was accompanied 
 by a mounted guard for protection against the 
 banditti. 
 
 Soon after my return from Italy I was 
 commanded to take my sketches to the Tuileries, 
 and was commissioned to make three drawings 
 from them, one for Queen Marie Amelie, one for 
 the Due de Nemours, and one for Princess 
 Clementine ; the last named shortly afterwards 
 requested me to make two more drawings, and I 
 was continually receiving proofs of the Princess's 
 kindness. 
 
 At the end of this year the remains of Napoleon
 
 RIVA DEI SCHIAVONI, VENICE (1894) 
 (Size 22J x 15| inches.)
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 81 
 
 were brought to France in the Belle Poule, a 
 frigate commanded by Prince de Joinville, from St. 
 Helena. They reached Paris on 14th December. 
 It was a glorious day, but very cold. I witnessed 
 the arrival from the garden of the Chamber of 
 Deputies, opposite to the Pont de la Concorde, for 
 which I had been presented with a ticket of 
 admission by the Princess. There was an immense 
 number of troops. The magnificent car was 
 covered with purple crepe dotted all over with 
 golden bees, and the horses, also draped with 
 crepe reaching to the ground, were led by Mar- 
 shals of the Army, whilst others walked beside 
 the car holding the pall. As the procession 
 crossed the bridge on the way to the Invalides 
 the sun shone out, and it was a most brilliant 
 spectacle. 
 
 In 1841 1 made two large water-colour drawings 
 from my Italian sketches for the Old Water- 
 Colour Society's Exhibition, one of Venice, and 
 the other of Naples from the Sea. 
 
 Many inquiries were now being made for me in 
 London, and I was strongly advised to quit Paris 
 and to take up my residence permanently in 
 England. My drawings at the Old Society's 
 
 Exhibition were much appreciated, and Thackeray 
 
 11
 
 82 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 had written two years previously in Frasers 
 Magazine : " A new painter, somewhat in the 
 style of Harding, is Mr. Callow ; and better, I 
 think, than his master or original, whose colours 
 are too gaudy, to my taste, and effects too 
 glaringly theatrical " ; success seemed, therefore, 
 assured. I accordingly commenced preparations for 
 leaving Paris by selling many of my possessions, 
 which I had accumulated during my residence in 
 that city for nearly twelve years. Although I had 
 never entertained the idea of settling there for life, 
 still when the time came I left with much regret, 
 for the period had been passed most happily. I 
 had here begun my career as a lad unaided, but by 
 continued exertions and hard work had been most 
 successful. From the small sum of twenty-five 
 francs, which I had first deposited in the Savings 
 Bank at the instigation of Himley, I had now 
 fourteen thousand francs invested in the Funds. 
 I had also made so many kind friends, and had 
 become so well known professionally, that I was 
 truly grieved to leave Paris, and my great grief 
 was in severing my connection with the Royal 
 Family, particularly the Princess Clementine, to 
 whom I had given drawing lessons twice a week 
 for nearly seven years, always punctually at eight
 
 LIFE IN PARIS 83 
 
 o'clock in the morning, whether at Paris, St. Cloud, 
 or Neuilly ; also Prince de Joinville, to whom I had 
 given occasional lessons on his return from Mexico. 
 My principal furniture, books, and prints were 
 purchased by Baron Schweiter and other friends ; 
 the remainder I left with my brother John to 
 furnish his apartments, as he remained in Paris 
 working on his own account. 
 
 I finally quitted Paris on 28th March 1841, 
 and settled in London, rather nervous as to the 
 result, for having given up my Royal pupil as well 
 as a good connection as a drawing-master amongst 
 many of the old French aristocracy, I had to start 
 afresh and practically unknown in London.
 
 j. . ; -- /\* B. . 
 
 , 
 
 -- '-- ' ' -.:. 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 IN LONDON 
 
 DURING the first year of my residence in London 
 I had only one pupil, Lady Beaujolois Bury, a 
 daughter of the Earl of Charleville, but I was 
 successful in selling a number of drawings. I 
 resumed my acquaintance with Mr. Kalergi, who 
 was living in the same street as myself. He was a 
 rich Russian, having inherited about half a million 
 of money from his father ; I first met him in Paris. 
 We frequently passed many pleasant days together. 
 
 85
 
 86 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Sometimes he drove me down to Richmond, where 
 his mother was staying, and I made numerous 
 sketches there. In fact he was most kind to me, 
 and frequently invited me to dinner at his house. 
 Sometimes after dinner he would send his valet to 
 secure a box at the Opera. Arriving there, Kalergi 
 would be amused for a time, but would often soon 
 tire of it and we would return before the finish to 
 his house, when he would play all the airs to which 
 he had just listened. He was a clever pianist, and 
 I remember on one occasion after having heard the 
 ' Stabat Mater ' for the first time he played it all 
 from memory. During the year many of my old 
 friends from Paris, including Comte de Noe, Comte 
 Stackleberg, Baron Schweitzer, and others, called 
 to see me at my studio. 
 
 In the autumn I made a sketching tour in 
 Normandy, accompanied by Bentley. We visited 
 St. Malo and Avranches. From the latter place 
 we went in a country cart to St. Malo. On our 
 complaining of the roughness of the road and the 
 jolting of the cart the driver gravely informed us 
 that it was the same road the great Napoleon had 
 traversed, which, however, did not console us for 
 the bumping we received during the drive. We 
 next proceeded to Caen, where we took the
 
 LONDON FROM HOLLY LODGE, HIGHGATE (1841) 
 (Size 12| x 1SJ inches.)
 
 IN LONDON 
 
 87 
 
 steamer to Havre, and afterwards walked along 
 the coast to Dieppe, thence through Abbeville to 
 Paris, and returned from there direct to London. 
 
 About this time Adelaide Kemble made her 
 first appearance on the stage of Co vent Garden 
 Theatre in Nonna. I went to hear the Opera, 
 and was agreeably surprised to find an accomplished 
 
 ' 
 
 
 DARTMOUTH. 
 
 artiste instead of the nervous young singer whom 
 I had heard some years previously in her own 
 home at Paris. She was perfect in her character 
 and sang divinely. She afterwards became Mrs. 
 Sartoris, and relinquished the stage. 
 
 During the next year, 1842, my pupils increased 
 in number. Amongst others were Lady Stratford de 
 Redcliffe and her family, who came to receive 
 lessons before departing for Constantinople to join
 
 88 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 his lordship, who was British Ambassador there. 
 Miss Crewe, a sister of Lord Crewe, was also a 
 pupil, and I went to give her some lessons at 
 Madeley Manor, in Staffordshire, the seat of Mrs. 
 Cunliffe Offley, the aunt of Miss Crewe, with 
 whom she was staying. I unfortunately caught a 
 severe cold on the last day of my visit through 
 sitting on the damp grass, so I decided to go to 
 the South Coast to recuperate. It entailed a 
 tedious journey by coach, passing through Bristol 
 and Exeter to Plymouth, whence I made a short 
 sketching tour to Dartmouth, Torquay, Teign- 
 mouth, Lyme Regis, and Corfe Castle. 
 
 I had now accumulated sufficient money to 
 purchase the lease of my house, 20 Charlotte 
 Street, Portland Place, where I resided for some 
 years, Bentley sharing part of it until my marriage. 
 My pupils became still more numerous. Amongst 
 them was Lord Dufferin, who, however, was more 
 interested in chemistry than drawing, so much so 
 that his mother, one of the beautiful Sheridan 
 sisters, told me that she was in constant fear lest 
 he should blow up their house. I lost sight of my 
 pupil for many years, but followed his brilliant 
 career with great interest, especially during the 
 time he was Viceroy of India. Shortly before his
 
 ENTRANCE TO THE PORT OF HAVRE (1898) 
 (Size 20J X 14 inches.)
 
 IN LONDON 89 
 
 death I wrote to condole with him on the loss of 
 his eldest son, who was killed during the Boer War. 
 He sent a charming letter to me in reply, saying 
 he often noticed my name in newspapers, and in 
 addition was pleasantly reminded of me by a lovely 
 work of mine hanging on the wall in his drawing- 
 room. 
 
 In 1843 I exhibited a painting of the " Port of 
 Havre " at the Old Society. It was purchased by 
 Mr. W. Prinsep as a gift for a distinguished Indian, 
 Dwarkanath Tagore, as it represented the place 
 from which he embarked for England. Mr. Prinsep 
 also gave me a commission to paint a view of Dover, 
 being the spot at which this Indian had first set 
 foot in England. These drawings were subse- 
 quently sent to him in India. 
 
 1 paid a second visit to Madeley Manor, and 
 whilst there saw Crewe Hall, the country seat 
 of Lord Crewe, a lovely place full of fine pictures 
 and antiquities. It was shortly afterwards burnt 
 down, and the picture gallery was seriously 
 damaged by fire. From Madeley I proceeded 
 to Liverpool, and took the steamer for Glasgow, 
 calling at Douglas, in the Isle of Man. It was a 
 lovely trip up the river Clyde, and I was fortunate 
 in seeing the charming scenery in fine weather. 
 
 12
 
 90 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 From Glasgow I took the train to Edinburgh, a city 
 glorious in position and effect. The mists were 
 rather against sketching, for I had to go to the 
 hills three times to obtain a general view of the 
 city before I was successful. After spending some 
 days sketching I went by coach to Melrose, Jed- 
 burgh, Berwick, Bamborough Castle, Alnwick, and 
 
 
 
 CHATSWOHTH. 
 
 Durham ; then by an omnibus from Catterick 
 Bridge to Richmond, and back to London. Travel- 
 ling by coach in these days was a great pleasure. 
 Stopping at the principal towns, one was welcomed 
 at the inns by the landlords, and was served as 
 travellers never are and never will be again. During 
 this little tour I made many sketches, from which 
 I executed later finished water-colour paintings. 
 In the month of December I received a com-
 
 LA GRANDE PLACE, BRUGES- 
 MARKET DAY (1891) 
 
 (Size 12J x ISf inches.)
 
 IN LONDON 91 
 
 mission from the Duke of Devonshire to make two 
 drawings of Chatsworth for Queen Victoria's album, 
 one of the house from the garden, and the other 
 a view from the conservatory two points of interest 
 which Her Majesty had greatly admired during her 
 visit to Chatsworth with Prince Consort. The 
 Duke gave instructions to his head gardener, Mr. 
 Joseph Paxton, afterwards knighted for his services 
 in connection with the great Exhibition of 1851, to 
 look after me, and having to work in the open 
 air during bitterly cold weather, a furnace was 
 placed near me, so that I could warm myself, and 
 a manservant was deputed to wait on me. When 
 the drawings were finished the Duke came to see 
 them at my studio, and he was so pleased with them 
 that he increased the price originally stipulated. 
 
 In August 1844, after an exceptionally busy 
 time in London, I was tempted to revisit the 
 Rhine and the Moselle, so I crossed to Calais, 
 and went by diligence to Dunkirk, from there 
 through Bruges and Malines, making a number 
 of sketches at both places, to Cologne, and then 
 up the Rhine by steamer to Coblenz. After 
 staying there for a few days I started in a very 
 small steamer up the Moselle, and landed at Garden 
 on a lovely evening. The next morning I proceeded
 
 92 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 by boat to Cochem, where I remained for several 
 days sketching. The proprietor of the hotel spoke 
 French, and very obligingly walked out with me 
 to point out the principal objects of interest, 
 
 1 1 &*- 
 
 EISENACH. 
 
 including Schloss Elz. I next went to Trarbach, 
 a secluded spot with no travellers, and with few 
 means of communication with other places. I 
 made a number of sketches in this charmingly 
 picturesque old town, and on revisiting Trarbach, 
 seventeen years afterwards, I learnt that about
 
 IN LONDON 93 
 
 the year 1860 the principal street, with its quaint 
 buildings, which I had sketched, had been burnt 
 down. From Trarbach I visited the pretty village 
 of Alf, where the river runs round a promontory, on 
 the top of which is the ruined castle of Marienburg ; 
 then proceeded by Berncastel to Treves. The three 
 weeks which I spent alone beside the banks of the 
 Moselle were most enjoyable, the only drawback 
 being my utter ignorance of the German language. 
 Whilst on my way to Treves I saw an immense 
 number of pilgrims, headed by priests and banners, 
 both going to and returning from that city, where 
 the Holy Coat, without seam, which had been lost 
 for upwards of fifty years, had just been found, 
 built up, I was informed, in a wall of the cathedral. 
 It was on view to the faithful, and thousands of 
 pilgrims were flocking day and night from Bavaria, 
 Saxony, and other countries in order to behold it. 
 I was told that I had arrived too late to see it, but 
 a small tip was sufficient to open sesame. The 
 coat was displayed in a glass case, which I was not 
 allowed to approach nearer than one hundred yards. 
 The niece of the Archbishop of Treves was the 
 only one allowed to kiss the hem of the garment ; 
 she had been lame for many years, so report ran, 
 and on kissing it she was immediately cured,
 
 94 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 throwing away her crutches and dancing for 
 
 joy- 
 In spite of the rapidity of the Upper Moselle, a 
 
 boat started for Thionville, in which I took a place ; 
 but the current being unusually swift, it was unable 
 to reach that place, so I landed and took the coach 
 to Paris, where I stayed for a week with my 
 brother John, and then returned to London. In 
 these years a great difficulty was experienced in 
 leaving France. It was absolutely necessary to 
 have a passport, and one had to attend the Bureau 
 de Passeport, where full particulars of one's height, 
 colour of the eyes, length of nose, etc,, were care- 
 fully noted. The passport had afterwards to be 
 presented at the British Embassy to be viseed by 
 the Ambassador, which took three days, and for 
 which a charge of five francs was made. It had 
 also to be countersigned and registered at the port 
 on quitting France. One of the earliest which 1 
 possess is quite a curiosity. 
 
 The year 1845 was one of considerable moment 
 to me, for I became engaged to one of my pupils, 
 Miss Harriet Anne Smart, a niece of Sir George 
 Smart, the Queen's organist, and sister to Henry 
 Smart, the organist and composer. She was also 
 a clever musician, being an excellent pianist and
 
 THE CATHEDRAL, ANTWERP (1895) 
 (Size 26 x 19 incfcw.)
 
 **" ji^HS^BI 

 
 IN LONDON 95 
 
 vocalist, and was besides a good linguist. At the 
 wish of her relations we waited a year before being 
 married. 
 
 During the summer I made a sketching tour 
 in Holland. I went by steamer to Rotterdam, and 
 
 
 SCHEVENINGKN. 
 
 then to The Hague, where I made the acquaintance 
 of a gentleman, who obtained for me an invitation 
 to an evening party at the house of a Dutch family. 
 It was rather a formal but interesting affair, with 
 music and conversation, the latter being in French. 
 From The Hague I visited Scheveningen, where 
 I obtained some good sketches of Dutch fishing-
 
 96 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 boats, and then proceeded by diligence to Delft, 
 Ley den, and Haarlem. These places were exceed- 
 ingly dull, there being very few people to be seen 
 in the streets, and at the last-named town I was 
 the only traveller at the hotel, where I dined alone 
 in a room capable of holding five hundred persons. 
 I next took up my quarters at Amsterdam, which 
 was more lively, as it was fair time and there were 
 plenty of amusements, besides, I had an opportunity 
 of seeing Rembrandt's glorious paintings. I 
 afterwards had a most interesting trip by steamer 
 through the canals to Antwerp, and from there I 
 returned to England. 
 
 I had in my younger days been a great smoker, 
 but when I commenced to receive lady pupils I 
 could only indulge in a pipe during the evenings, 
 and now on the approach of my marriage I decided 
 to give up the habit entirely. I practically ceased 
 smoking from this date, and have never resumed it. 
 
 In the spring of the following year, 1846, I was 
 busily superintending alterations and the decoration 
 of my house in Charlotte Street previous to my 
 marriage with Miss Smart, which ceremony took 
 place at St. Margaret's Church, Westminster, in the 
 presence of a large number of relations and friends. 
 We started on our honeymoon to Ramsgate, and
 
 OLD BRIDGE, NUREMBERG 
 (Size 14| x 10| inches.)
 
 IN LONDON 97 
 
 on the next day crossed to Ostend. Another 
 pupil of mine happened to be married on the same 
 day as ourselves, and we, curiously, met on board the 
 steamer. I had to look after both the brides during 
 the crossing, as the other husband disappeared 
 shortly after the steamer started. Our honeymoon 
 lasted ten weeks, during which time we went up 
 the Rhine and across Switzerland to Venice. At 
 Cologne we saw the cathedral before its comple- 
 tion. The crane at the top of the unfinished 
 tower had been removed from that position, and 
 immediately afterwards, so it was said, a terrific 
 storm did an immense amount of damage, and the 
 priests, looking upon it as a judgment, caused 
 the crane to be replaced on the tower, where it 
 remained till the Emperor William I. of Germany 
 had the cathedral completed. I was at first dis- 
 appointed with Nuremberg, but on looking round 
 I found many capital subjects. The picturesque 
 buildings were, however, very difficult to sketch, 
 owing to the amount of detail ; in fact I experienced 
 the same difficulty in all the old German towns. At 
 Munich we saw an interesting fair, with Tyrolean 
 peasants in their national costumes. I made many 
 sketches of them. We passed lovely scenery on 
 our way to Innsbruck, and on arriving at the 
 
 13
 
 98 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Austrian frontier all our luggage was examined in 
 the open air. The scenery of the Alps from 
 Innsbruck is charming, and we especially enjoyed 
 the view looking down the winding river from the 
 bridge by moonlight. The old city of Trent is also 
 beautifully situated, and I found many subjects 
 there for my pencil. We next proceeded to the 
 beautiful city of Verona, with its picturesque old 
 buildings and its wonderful market-place. To my 
 mind it ranks next to Venice in point of interest. 
 The market-place was a great source of interest to 
 us ; Italian ladies with black veils wandering about 
 and making purchases at the stalls covered with 
 huge white umbrellas made an animated scene. 
 From Verona we went to Vicenza, where we took 
 the train to Venice, and rowed up the Grand 
 Canal to Hotel Europa late in the evening. The 
 calm and quietude were heavenly after several 
 weeks' of travelling by diligence and rail. The city 
 at this period belonged to Austria, and Austrian 
 soldiers were to be seen everywhere. The 
 Austrians and Venetians kept quite apart ; each 
 had their separate cafes on either side of the Piazza. 
 Still it was Venice, the same as of old. 
 
 On our return journey we arrived at Fluelen 
 in torrents of rain ; found the church surrounded by
 
 IN LONDON 99 
 
 water, and were obliged to enter our hotel by means 
 of planks. Lucerne was also flooded on our arrival, 
 and we were unable to go to the Schwan Hotel, 
 where I stayed on my previous visit, on account 
 of the lower part of the house being under water. 
 We arrived home on the 12th September after 
 an enjoyable trip, which was, however, to some 
 extent marred by my wife's delicate health. 
 
 I now settled down to serious work both in 
 teaching and making drawings for the Old Society's 
 Exhibitions, and owing to my wife's ill-health our 
 gaieties were few. Amongst my pupils were Mr. 
 Owen Stanley and his sister ; their father was the 
 Bishop of Norwich, and President of the Linnean 
 Society. I often attended meetings and soire'es at 
 his house in connection with the Society, which 
 were deeply interesting to me. 
 
 In 1847 I paid a visit to Mr. Geoffrey AVindus 
 at Tottenham to see his remarkable collection of 
 Turner drawings, in addition to other beautiful 
 paintings which adorned the walls of his rooms. 
 I was so much impressed with the loveliness of 
 Turner's work that I can even now recall them 
 to my memory. The sales at the Old Society's 
 Exhibition, for the first time since my election in 
 1838, were very bad, which caused me much dis-
 
 100 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 appointment, but fortunately I was most success- 
 ful with my teaching, having almost more pupils 
 than I was able to properly superintend. I also 
 painted a few small pictures in oils, which I sent 
 to the British Institution in the following year, and 
 continued to do so annually until the Exhibitions 
 were discontinued. In 1848 I was again disap- 
 pointed in the sales at the Old Society, but this 
 was fully compensated for by the good news which 
 Bentley brought to me one evening, announcing 
 that I had been elected a full member of the 
 Society of Painters in Water Colours. The great 
 ambition of my life was now attained. How proud 
 was I to think that for the future I was to be in- 
 cluded in a body of celebrated men to whom as a boy 
 I had looked up with an admiration approaching 
 to awe, and to belong to the Society and home of 
 water-colour paintings. I wonder how many of the 
 younger generation have appreciated the honour of 
 membership of this famous Society to the same 
 degree as I have done, and still continue to do. 
 
 In the autumn of this year my wife and I made 
 a tour to Tewkesbury, Worcester, and Hereford, 
 at which places I found plenty of subjects to 
 sketch. A small painting of a view in the first- 
 named town was purchased at the Old Society's
 
 IN LONDON 101 
 
 Exhibition by Charles Dickens for eight guineas, 
 and at the sale of his effects after his death this 
 drawing fetched fifty-four guineas. We continued 
 our journey by coach to Ross and Monmouth, 
 visiting all the beautiful places along the river 
 Wye, including Goodrich Court, belonging to 
 Colonel Meyrick, with its famous collection of 
 armour. Whilst we were at Abergavenny there 
 was a Cymrygyddion fete, at which there was a 
 harpist competition. "Poor Marianne" was the 
 piece selected to be played, and one of the com- 
 petitors insisted on playing it with sixteen varia- 
 tions. On being told by the judges that six 
 would be sufficient, he said that unless he was 
 allowed to play it all through as he had learnt it, 
 he would fail entirely, so he was allowed to have 
 his way, and bored the audience excessively. 
 
 On our return to London I accompanied Bentley 
 to a meeting of the members of the Old Society. 
 It was my first attendance, and I was introduced 
 by him to those present. The number of members 
 at that time was four and twenty. At a subse- 
 quent meeting during the presidency of Copley 
 Fielding, at which I was present, Evans, " of 
 Eton," put forward a motion limiting the number 
 of works to be sent by each member for Exhibi-
 
 102 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 tion. Copley Fielding, \vho always contributed 
 many drawings, felt that the proposal was levelled 
 at him, and was much pained by it. He appealed 
 to William Hunt, the fruit and flower painter, for 
 his opinion. The latter, who was of small stature 
 and slightly deformed, and who had a very gentle 
 manner, said that he should be sorry not to be 
 able to send any number of drawings he might be 
 able to paint, without limit. Whereupon Evans 
 withdrew his motion, and added that he had no 
 intention of hurting the feelings of the President 
 or of any of the members. I rarely saw David 
 Cox, except on " touching-up " days, as he was 
 then living in Birmingham. He was a very jovial 
 fellow. In the Gallery Cox once remarked that 
 he had never received a hundred guineas for any 
 one drawing. He was overheard by a stranger, 
 who, addressing Cox, said, "You shall not state 
 that again, for I will give you that amount for 
 the picture hanging on the wall." It was the 
 well-known "Welsh Funeral at Bettws-y-Coed." 
 At one of the Exhibitions a bright drawing of 
 mine, full of Italian sunshine, was placed on the 
 line next to another by Peter De Wint, which, 
 although very powerful in colour, was dark in 
 tone. He considered that mine placed his at a
 
 INNSBRUCK 
 From an Oil Painting. 
 
 (Size 22 x 29 inches.)
 
 IN LONDON 103 
 
 disadvantage, and suggested to me that I should 
 subdue my drawing by placing a warm tint all 
 over it. Needless to say my brother artists 
 advised me to take no notice of the suggestion, 
 which, if it had been carried out, would have 
 ruined my work. 
 
 It was about this period that a gentleman called 
 upon me one day, and inquired if I could make a 
 drawing of a bird's-eye view of Dover. As I knew 
 the town well, I replied in the affirmative. He 
 then desired to know if I could also do another of 
 the Pyramids. At first I expressed a doubt, but 
 when he offered to supply me with a map of the 
 Nile I consented to do my best, and he gave me 
 a commission for the two drawings. When they 
 were ready the gentleman called again and took 
 them away. The matter passed out of my mind 
 until some weeks afterwards, on looking at a copy 
 of the Illustrated London News, I saw a print of 
 a flying machine passing over my view of Dover, 
 and a second print of the machine arriving at the 
 Pyramids. 
 
 In 1849 I made a sketching tour in the west of 
 Scotland, arriving at Glasgow whilst the Queen 
 and Prince Albert were there, and afterwards 
 visiting the Kyles of Bute and Inveraray, where
 
 104 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 my wife and I stayed for a month in most primitive 
 but comfortable quarters, being waited upon by a 
 maid without shoes or stockings. 
 
 During the next year I was much occupied in oil 
 painting, sending " A View of Bologna " and " The 
 Trongate, Glasgow," to the British Institution, and 
 " Nuremberg " and " Fe'camp" (a water-colour) to 
 the Royal Academy. I also contributed twenty 
 drawings to the Old Society, and was fortunate in 
 selling all of them. It was a rule of the Society 
 at this time that the price of the drawings should 
 not include frames, which were much more expen- 
 sive than they are now, and purchasers had the 
 option of buying the drawings framed or unframed. 
 In the earlier days, prior to my election, the 
 Society, in order to induce members to make large 
 and important drawings, provided frames and plate 
 glass complete in which members might place 
 their works. This system did not answer for long, 
 and soon after I became an Associate it was given 
 up. A lottery was held for the remaining frames, 
 and I was successful in gaining one of them. The 
 Society held a very high position in those days. 
 The Exhibitions were well attended, and on private 
 view days the gallery was crowded, visitors even 
 waiting outside before the doors were opened in
 
 IN LONDON 105 
 
 order to obtain an early admission. The Society 
 was also in such a prosperous state that members 
 received fees for attending meetings and for 
 hanging the drawings for the Exhibitions. The 
 meetings were consequently well attended, and a 
 very pleasant time was frequently spent discussing 
 art with my fellow-members. 
 
 My brother John, who had joined the New 
 Society in 1845, left it three years later and became 
 an Associate of the Old Society in this year, 1849. 
 He continued his connection with it until his 
 death in 1878. 
 
 During the summer we went to a centenary 
 commemoration of the death of the great musical 
 composer Bach, at which my brother-in-law, 
 Henry Smart, conducted. 
 
 Afterwards we made a very interesting excur- 
 sion through Belgium for the purpose of sketching. 
 We visited Lille, Courtrai, Tournai, Bruges, Ghent, 
 and Antwerp. At all these towns I had little time 
 for seeing the sights, as I found so many archi- 
 tectural subjects admirably suited for my pencil. 
 
 During the year of the great Exhibition our 
 travels were confined to Lincolnshire and Norfolk, 
 and we went, amongst other interesting places, to 
 Sudbrook Hall, in order to see the celebrated 
 
 14
 
 106 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Ellison Collection of Water-Colour Drawings, now 
 in the Victoria and Albert Museum. 
 
 I was present at the Gallery, in 1852, when 
 Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, and their two 
 eldest children, accompanied by the Duchess of 
 
 *h~ZS*uaf* .^Lss^O-^^^ 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 Cambridge, visited it. Each member had the 
 honour of being separately presented to the Royal 
 Family. The Queen, after looking round the 
 gallery, graciously came up to me and said, " You 
 are, I think, Mr. Callow. I have heard of you 
 from the Princess Clementine, and of your teaching
 
 THE BELFRY AT BRUGES (1882) 
 (Size 25 x 181- inches.) 

 
 IN LONDON 107 
 
 drawing to the members of King Louis Philippe's 
 family in Paris." Her Majesty also inquired if I 
 was settled in England, and asked me many 
 questions relative to my painting. Prince Albert 
 also had a long conversation with me respecting 
 art, and wanted to know whether the drawings 
 would not be improved by white mounts, when 
 I explained that the drawings were framed close 
 up, in accordance with the rules of the Society, to 
 prove that they could stand the gilt as well as oil 
 paintings. Both the Queen and the Prince 
 purchased one of my drawings, and out of the 
 twenty which I contributed to this Exhibition I 
 was fortunate in selling nineteen. 
 
 In August we made a tour in Germany, starting 
 from Cologne to Diisseldorf, where an Exhibition 
 was being held ; to Hanover, where I made 
 sketches of the Rathhaus ; to Brunswick, seeing 
 the tombs of the reigning family, where an atten- 
 dant placed in my hands the dried heart of the 
 Duke who lost his life in trying to rescue some 
 lions during an inundation ; and then to Leipsic, 
 where we saw Bach's monument, and to Dresden 
 with its numerous museums. We travelled home 
 by Cassel and Frankfort. 
 
 After the Revolution of 1848 King Louis
 
 108 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Philippe and his family were obliged to flee from 
 France. They took up their residence in exile at 
 Claremont, near Esher, which Queen Victoria had 
 placed at their disposal. In the beginning of the 
 year 1853 I was summoned to Claremont to renew 
 the drawing lessons to the Prince de Joinville and 
 the Princess Clementine. On arriving there the 
 Queen, Marie Amelie, seized both my hands and 
 began speaking to me in broken English, but she 
 was reminded by her son that I spoke French 
 fluently, when she exclaimed, " II me fait un plaisir 
 de vous voir. Ah ! ca me rappelle le bon vieux 
 temps." Both my pupils had married since I last 
 saw them in Paris. The Princess had become the 
 Duchess of Saxe-Coburg, and the Prince de Joinville 
 with pride showed me his children, mounting them 
 on chairs to do so. The drawing lessons continued 
 until the spring, when the Princess returned to 
 Germany. 
 
 In the early autumn I visited Richmond in 
 Yorkshire, and made numerous excursions for the 
 purpose of sketching, and afterwards went to 
 Manchester to see the Art Treasures Exhibition, 
 and then to Chester, a delightfully interesting city, 
 with endless new objects for my pencil. In the 
 next year, 1854, I made a tour in Normandy,
 
 ST. MARY'S CHURCH, RICHMOND, YORKSHIRE 
 BEFORE RESTORATION 
 
 (Size 20A x 18i inches.)
 
 IN LONDON 109 
 
 accompanied as usual by my wife ; we went via 
 Dieppe, taking the diligence to Lisieux, Caen, and 
 Havre, and then by steamer up the Seine to Rouen. 
 On return to England I was shocked to hear of the 
 death of my old friend and fellow - pupil Charles 
 Bentley, from cholera, after only a few hours' illness. 
 It was a great grief to me, as he had been a true 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 companion from the earliest period of our acquaint- 
 ance when we worked together under the Fieldings. 
 During these years I was still very successful in 
 selling my drawings at the Society's Exhibitions, 
 besides receiving numerous commissions. I was 
 also enabled to raise my prices, and I received one 
 hundred and twenty guineas for a drawing of 
 Venice at the Liverpool Exhibition.
 
 - 
 
 DURHAM. 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 
 
 LONDON did not suit my wife's health, and for 
 some years we had been in the habit of taking 
 apartments from time to time at Reigate and other 
 places, I travelling up to town two or three times 
 a week to give my lessons. We, however, con- 
 sidered that it would be much more satisfactory to 
 have a cottage of our own in the country, so on one 
 dark November morning my brother John and I 
 
 started to look at one, of which we had heard, 
 
 in
 
 112 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 in Great Missenden parish. We left Euston 
 
 Station at six o'clock, travelling third class in a 
 
 truck without seats or covering of any description, 
 
 and after a tedious journey, the train being 
 
 shunted into sidings several times to allow fast 
 
 ones to pass, we reached Berkhampstead ; from 
 
 there we walked ten miles through Chesham to 
 
 Great Missenden. We found the cottage on the 
 
 top of the Chiltern Hills, one mile and a half from 
 
 the village. It was a most rural spot, far away 
 
 from civilisation, and there was a good orchard 
 
 and three fields, with some beautiful old trees, 
 
 attached to the cottage. The place with its 
 
 surroundings appealed to me so greatly that I at 
 
 once entered into preliminary arrangements with 
 
 the owner for the purchase of it. After having 
 
 some tea at a small inn close by, my brother and I 
 
 walked back to Berkhampstead and took a slow 
 
 train back to London, arriving home very tired after 
 
 a long day. Early in the following spring, 1855, I 
 
 completed the purchase of the property, and we 
 
 went down to take possession of it, arriving in 
 
 deep snow. We were greatly surprised to hear 
 
 the church bells ringing, which we soon learnt was 
 
 done to welcome us to the neighbourhood. Of 
 
 course this meant a silver key to the ringers.
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 113 
 
 We were enchanted with our new home and 
 the neighbourhood. At that time the commons 
 were unenclosed and covered with gorse, which 
 when in flower was most picturesque. There 
 were lovely drives in all directions, and Hampden 
 House, the seat of the Earl of Buckinghamshire, 
 famed for its woods of beech trees, Chequers 
 Court, the property of the descendants of Oliver 
 Cromwell, and other historical houses were within 
 easy reach. 
 
 Soon after our arrival at Great Missenden 1 
 was grieved by the death of Copley Fielding at 
 Worthing. It was said that he never recovered 
 from a shock caused by the death of his favourite 
 daughter. He was a gentle, kind, and amiable 
 man, and most courteous in his manner ; he was 
 very industrious both in teaching and painting, 
 and for* twenty-five years was a most excellent 
 President of the Old Society, at whose exhibitions 
 his drawings were always a great attraction. I 
 remember his saying that he had never received a 
 hundred guineas for any drawing which he had 
 made, yet in 1872 I saw one of his drawings realise 
 seven hundred guineas at the famous Gillett sale 
 at Christie's sale-rooms. 
 
 It was during the year 1855 1 learnt that the 
 
 15
 
 114 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Professorship of drawing at the Military Academy 
 at Addiscombe had become vacant, but being too 
 much occupied to undertake the duties myself, I 
 advised my brother John to apply for the post. 
 He was successful in obtaining it, and continued 
 to hold it until the Academy was removed to 
 Woolwich, when he retired and accepted a 
 commutation. A few years later he was given 
 a similar position at Woolwich, and after a time a 
 military professor was appointed in his place and 
 he received a further commutation. 
 
 In the next year, 1856, we made a charming trip, 
 accompanied by friends, to Tours and Nantes, and 
 thence down beside the river Loire to Blois. In 
 the following year we went to Scotland, visiting 
 Edinburgh, Stirling, and Aberdeen, where 1 
 sketched the Brig of Balgownie. In the autumn a 
 dinner took place in commemoration of the fiftieth 
 anniversary of the foundation of the Old Water- 
 Colour Society, but owing to a dense fog I was 
 unable to attend it. 
 
 In February 1858 I went up to town to attend 
 a meeting of the Old Society, at which John Lewis, 
 who had succeeded Copley Fielding in the office of 
 President, resigned all connection with the Society. 
 He was anxious to become associated with the Royal
 
 TOURS 
 
 (Size 10J x 19J, section taken 10 x 17i inches.)
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 115 
 
 Academy, and in accordance with its rules at that 
 time no candidate belonging to any other Society 
 of painters was eligible for election. Lewis was 
 elected an Associate of the Royal Academy twelve 
 months later. In the summer we went to Leeds 
 to be present at the inauguration of the great organ 
 in the Town Hall ; it had been designed by my 
 brother-in-law, Henry Smart, and he gave a 
 magnificent performance upon it Afterwards we 
 paid a visit to friends in Lincolnshire, and later 
 proceeded to Richmond in Yorkshire, where we 
 greatly enjoyed some exquisite drives in the 
 neighbourhood. Lady Zetland, on learning that I 
 was staying near by, invited me to Aske Hall, 
 and I received a commission from her for several 
 drawings. 
 
 On our return to town I found it necessary to 
 consult Mr. Caesar Hawkins, the celebrated 
 surgeon, about a small wen on my cheek, and he 
 advised an operation, which took place under 
 chloroform a few days later. As the wound healed 
 but slowly I was obliged to wear a bandage over it, 
 and was ordered to Folkestone for a change of air. 
 Whilst there I received a letter from Lady Anthony 
 de Rothschild requesting me to give some lessons 
 in drawing to her and her youngest daughter at
 
 116 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Aston Clinton. I accordingly returned home and 
 presented myself for the first lesson, when Lady 
 Rothschild informed me that I should be taken for 
 a Crimean hero on account of the bandage over my 
 cheek. Shortly afterwards I was asked to visit 
 Mentmore to give lessons to the Baroness Meyer 
 de Rothschild, which I did for some time. In the 
 spring of the next year, 1859, my wife and I, 
 accompanied by two nieces, daughters of Henry 
 Smart, went to a ball at Mentmore, where I met 
 my old pupil, the Princess Clementine. It was a 
 most gorgeous affair, everything being carried out 
 in royal style, and our party did not arrive home 
 until 4.30 A.M., to the accompaniment of the singing 
 of birds. 
 
 Having now passed five years at the cottage, we 
 had become greatly attached to the place ; besides, 
 my wife's health had considerably improved in the 
 bracing atmosphere. She was greatly interested 
 in the welfare of the cottagers, who were sadly 
 ignorant, being unable either to read or write. All 
 the women, girls, and boys were occupied in 
 straw plaiting, and the only school was kept by a 
 dame, who taught nothing but plaiting, so my wife 
 started a small school for the benefit of the women 
 and girls, she herself at first teaching them reading
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 117 
 
 and writing ; but afterwards we engaged a mistress 
 for the purpose and converted a cottage, which 
 I had bought, into a school-house. As our own 
 cottage needed much repair, we found that it would 
 be better to pull it down entirely and erect a new 
 house in its place. This we decided to do, and 
 rented another cottage with stables and an excellent 
 orchard for sixteen pounds a year, in which to 
 store our furniture and to use on flying visits to see 
 the progress made in the building of the house. 
 In these days the usual mode of getting to London 
 was by a coach which started from Wendover and 
 passed Great Missenden at 7.30 A.M., reaching the 
 Old Bell Inn, Holborn, shortly after midday. It 
 left on the return journey at 3 P.M., arriving at 
 Great Missenden about eight o'clock in the evening. 
 This coach ride through Chalfont St. Giles and 
 Uxbridge was very enjoyable in the summer-time, 
 the scenery being pretty most of the way. I, 
 however, in order to give my lessons used to ride 
 my grey mare to Berkhampstead, and then to 
 take the train to town, returning in the evening by 
 the same route. This I did three times a week, 
 occasionally varying it by driving to Berkhampstead, 
 during the London season for many years. Although 
 we lived the greater part of the year at Great
 
 118 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Missenden I still kept on the house in Charlotte 
 Street, where I gave my lessons until 1860, when 
 we changed into another residence in Osnaburgh 
 Terrace, near Regent's Park. 
 
 At the Old Society's Exhibition in this year 
 The Times specially praised my drawings, stating, 
 " It is long since we have seen any work of William 
 Callow as impressive and finely conceived as his 
 * Castle of the Wartburg' (159), as picturesque as 
 his * Old Houses at Brunswick ' (72), or as placid 
 and serene as his * Summer Evening on the Avon 
 at Evesham' (257)." The Queen and Prince 
 Consort, accompanied by the Princess Alice, visited 
 the Exhibition, and I was specially sought out for 
 notice. Holman Hunt's painting of " Finding the 
 Saviour in the Temple" was exhibited in Bond 
 Street at this time, and caused considerable sen- 
 sation. The model for the figure of our Saviour 
 was young Mr. Cyril Flower, who afterwards 
 married Sir Anthony de Rothschild's eldest 
 daughter, and became Lord Battersea. 
 
 My wife's mother, Mrs. Smart, whose health 
 had been failing for some time, died at Watford, 
 where she was staying, on the 9th of July, and, in 
 accordance with a wish which she had expressed, 
 Henry Smart and I made arrangements for her
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 119 
 
 burial at Great Missenden. At the funeral an 
 unfortunate accident occurred ; the hill down to 
 the churchyard being very steep, and there being 
 but little space for carriages to turn, the first 
 mourning coach, in which Henry Smart and myself 
 were seated, upset at the church door. We were, 
 however, hauled out through the window, shaken, 
 but unhurt. 
 
 In the autumn we took a trip from Coblenz 
 up the Moselle, going over nearly the same route 
 as I did alone in 1844, and I was horrified to find 
 that Trarbach was an entirely new place with 
 bright green doors and brass knockers. Old 
 Trarbach, with its picturesque streets, old houses, 
 and the beautiful old tower, had disappeared, being 
 destroyed by fire shortly after my visit. The 
 sketches which I then made consequently became 
 very valuable to me. 
 
 In June 1861 we took up our residence in our 
 new house, which we named " The Firs," on 
 account of the number of fir trees surrounding it. 
 It is situated midway between the villages of Great 
 Missenden and Lee, so we attended the churches 
 of both parishes for worship. At this time the 
 church at the former place had pews in the galleries 
 very like boxes in a theatre, and the service was
 
 120 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 most primitive. There was no choir, and the music 
 consisted of a clarionet and a violin. The tuning 
 up of the latter was a most wonderful performance. 
 One hymn was a particular favourite, " Travelling 
 through the wilderness." This line was repeated 
 so frequently that we often wondered if the wilder- 
 ness would ever be got through. A few years 
 later matters improved, and an organ was acquired. 
 The church, however, was in a very dilapidated 
 state, and there being no vestry, the clergyman was 
 obliged to put on his gown at the reading-desk 
 before ascending the pulpit to preach. Later my 
 wife made an appeal for money, and got up a 
 bazaar in order to supply funds for erecting a new 
 building. Plans were designed by our friend, Mr. 
 Augustus Frere, who had built our house, but the 
 Bishop of Oxford (Wilberforce) disapproved of 
 them, and wanted the matter to be placed in the 
 hands of the diocesan architect. To this we 
 objected, and for a time the project hung fire, but 
 eventually the Bishop, finding that we were 
 obdurate, gave his consent to Mr. Frere's plans. 
 Some years afterwards I met Bishop Wilberforce 
 at a dejeuner. He was extremely civil and full of 
 good stories. 
 
 I well remember in the year 1862 going to hear
 
 g 
 
 ,3 
 fc ^ 
 
 O St 

 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 121 
 
 Charles Dickens give a reading of his Christmas 
 Carol. It was most impressive. Suddenly 
 covering his face with his hands at a most affecting 
 part, he reduced all his audience to tears. I was 
 never so touched by any reading as that of Dickens, 
 which was distinguished by a great simplicity of 
 manner. 
 
 In the following year I attended a grand 
 reception given in honour of Grant and Speke for 
 their discoverv of the source of the Nile, at the 
 
 r 
 
 rooms of the Royal Geographical Society, of which 
 I was a fellow. The rooms were crowded, and 
 the enthusiasm of those outside the building was 
 so great that a number of windows were broken in 
 the endeavour to hear Speke's lecture. He spoke 
 until past midnight, his audience being spell-bound. 
 I enjoyed it immensely. Ever since my boyhood, 
 when I had read Denham and Clapperton's Travels 
 to Timbuctoo, I had been always greatly interested 
 with everything connected with the dark continent 
 of Africa. 
 
 After the death of the Prince Consort, which had 
 recently occurred, I thought that some drawings of 
 Coburg, Rheinhardtsbrunn, and other royal palaces 
 with which he had been connected would be of 
 interest to the public, so I wrote to the Duchess 
 
 16
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Augustus of Saxe-Coburg, formerly my pupil, 
 Princess Clementine, asking her to obtain per- 
 
 FACSIMILE OP NOTES MADE BY Ql'EEN VICTORIA. 
 
 mission for me to sketch at these places, which she 
 readily obtained. In August 1863 we arrived at 
 Coburg and put up at the Gruner Baum Hotel
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 123 
 
 in the market-place, opposite to a fountain in 
 which fish were kept. The peasants fetching water 
 
 FACSIMILE OF NOTES MADE BY QUEEN VICTORIA. 
 
 and pigeons flying about made it an animated 
 scene from our windows. On learning that the 
 Royal Family had arrived at Coburg, I at once
 
 124 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 left my card at the Palace, and on the same even- 
 ing I received a command to go there the next 
 morning. I was welcomed by the Duke and 
 Duchess and their daughters, to whom I showed 
 my sketches. The Duchess requested me to leave 
 them with her, as she was going to Rosenau to 
 see Queen Victoria, who had arrived there, and on 
 the next day I was commanded by the Queen to 
 present myself at the Chateau at eleven o'clock on 
 the following morning. I accordingly went, and 
 found the Queen under a tent in the garden. I was 
 duly presented, but Her Majesty graciously said, " I 
 remember Mr. Callow perfectly." After looking 
 through my sketches, and expressing her admira- 
 tion for them, the Queen told me of a number of 
 places of interest which I ought to visit and 
 sketch. I ventured to tell Her Majesty that I 
 did not speak German, and I was afraid that I 
 should not remember the names which she had 
 mentioned, whereupon she graciously offered to 
 make a note of them for me, and taking two half- 
 sheets of deep mourn ing-paper, wrote down the 
 names. These two pieces of notepaper I have 
 always cherished in recollection of this very pleas- 
 ing interview which I had with the Queen. 
 
 Shortly afterwards the Crown Prince and
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 
 
 125 
 
 Princess of Prussia arrived at Coburg on a visit to 
 the Duke and Duchess, and I received another 
 command to take my sketches to the Palace 
 for inspection. The Prince and Princess received 
 me most kindly, and after admiring my sketches 
 
 
 RHEIN'HARDTSBRUNN*. 
 
 and talking on various subjects, the Princess gave 
 me an invitation to Potsdam, which was warmly 
 supported by the Prince, who said, " Do come, Mr. 
 Callow, and the Princess will show you all there is 
 to be seen." I accepted the invitation, and was 
 informed that quarters would be reserved for me 
 at the Einsiedler Hotel.
 
 126 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 On leaving Coburg we visited Rheinhardtsbrunn 
 and Gotha, making numerous sketches at both 
 places. From the latter town we took the railway 
 to Potsdam, and went to the hotel, as previously 
 arranged. I at once informed the Princess of my 
 arrival at Potsdam, and received a command to be 
 at the Palace at 8 A.M. on the following morning. 
 This necessitated an early rising, as the Palace was 
 half an hour's drive from the hotel. On my 
 reaching the Palace I was told by a footman 
 that I was one minute late, and on being conducted 
 into the presence of the Princess I found her 
 waiting for me, and I apologised for the delay. 
 We then proceeded to look for a subject to sketch, 
 and found a suitable one just outside the grounds. 
 We had not been working long before a lady-in- 
 waiting came and informed the Princess that 
 breakfast was ready. They left me busy sketching 
 and returned to the Palace. Presently a man- 
 servant brought me my breakfast, consisting of 
 cutlets, claret, coffee, etc., on a tray, and at the 
 same time stated that Her Royal Highness 
 desired me to dine with her at three o'clock. 
 He told me that it was necessary to put on evening 
 dress, but on my explaining that my clothes were 
 at the hotel and that there would be no time to go
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 127 
 
 and fetch them, he said under these circumstances 
 that the Princess would excuse morning dress. After 
 breakfast was over the Princess, accompanied by 
 two of her ladies-in-waiting, Countess Bruhl and 
 the Countess Hohenloe, returned, and as soon as I 
 had finished my sketch, carriages were ordered to 
 take us to Sans Souci, the Princess driving, 
 accompanied by one lady, in a carriage with four 
 horses, whilst I followed with the other lady in a 
 carriage and pair. On reaching Sans Souci we 
 alighted to sketch, and before returning to Potsdam 
 we mounted to the top of the Belvidere to see the 
 view of the surrounding country. On arriving back 
 at the Palace a man-servant showed me into a room 
 upstairs, and told me that I had three minutes to 
 get ready for dinner. I rapidly washed my hands, 
 and on descending found the Princess and her 
 ladies already dressed and on the Terrace waiting 
 for dinner to be announced. We were a party of 
 six. I sat opposite to the Princess, who had a 
 gentleman on each side of her, and the two ladies- 
 in-waiting sat on either side of me. After dinner, 
 during which the Princess chatted pleasantly with 
 every one, we drove to the lie des Faisans, which 
 was in a narrow river, and had to be reached by a 
 punt. After the ladies had got into the punt, I
 
 128 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 followed, laden with sketch-books, etc., and one of 
 the ladies punted to the island. On reaching it 
 they landed, and the last one hastily pushed the 
 punt back into the river, and they all walked away 
 laughing merrily, leaving me standing up in the 
 punt with my arms full of impedimenta. There 
 was nothing for it but to put down my burden and to 
 punt to the bank. Eventually I landed and caught 
 up the Princess and her ladies. In the evening I 
 was driven back to the hotel, accompanied by the 
 Countess Bruhl, who bore a gift of some flowers 
 from the Princess to my wife, also an invitation 
 for her to go to the Palace on the next day. 
 
 Being a wet morning we drove in a closed 
 carriage to the Palace, and were received by the 
 Princess in the Marble Hall. Her three children 
 were brought, in charge of an English nurse, for us 
 to see. The present Emperor of Germany was then 
 only a boy of four years of age. As the weather was 
 so inclement the Princess suggested that we should 
 make some sketches in the interior of the Palace. 
 I made a small coloured drawing of a view looking 
 through a long suite of reception rooms, and the 
 Princess completed it by adding a figure. For this 
 purpose one of her ladies-in-waiting posed as a 
 model, wearing a similar style of dress to that
 
 SKETCH IN POTSDAM PALACE WITH FIGURE ADDED BY 
 THE EMPRESS FREDERICK OF GERMANY (1863) 
 
 (Size 10J x "i inches.)
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 129 
 
 the Princess herself had worn on the occasion of a 
 ball given in commemoration of the centenary of 
 the building of the Palace. This drawing I have 
 carefully preserved (see Illustration). 
 
 Whilst we were at the Palace the King arrived 
 there in great state for dinner at 3 P.M., the ladies 
 being all in full evening dress. We had an 
 excellent view of the whole ceremony. 
 
 During these visits the Crown Prince was most 
 genial and friendly. He showed me his private 
 rooms, which were furnished with the greatest 
 simplicity. Beside the writing-table in his study 
 was a seat in the form of a saddle, so that he sat to 
 write as if he were on horseback. There was a 
 large number of photographs of the Princess in his 
 rooms, and the Prince pointed out to me the one 
 which he considered to be the most pleasing. 
 
 We left Potsdam on the day after our last visit 
 to the Palace, and went on to Berlin, as the 
 Princess had requested me to attend at her palace 
 there on the following morning. On my arrival I 
 learnt that there had been a review of the troops 
 by the King, at which the Princess had been 
 present, and had become wet to the skin owing 
 to a heavy rain. On this occasion Her Royal 
 Highness presented me with a breakfast service of 
 
 17
 
 130 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Royal Berlin porcelain in blue and gold, decorated 
 with views of the various royal palaces. 
 
 The Princess also informed me that if I went to 
 the Royal Palace I should obtain an audience with 
 the King. I explained that owing to my want of 
 knowledge of the German language I was afraid I 
 should experience a difficulty in obtaining admit- 
 tance, whereupon she instructed one of her servants 
 who understood English to accompany me. On 
 reaching the Palace I found the place in a state of 
 commotion. I was shown into an ante-room, where 
 Count Hohenloe came to see me. I informed him 
 that I had been sent by the Princess to have an 
 audience with the King, when the Count explained 
 that it was impossible for this to take place then, 
 as the King was receiving all the officers who had 
 taken part in the Review, and the Count promised 
 that a message should be sent to me at my hotel 
 later stating when the King would receive me. I 
 learnt that it was the custom after a review for 
 all the colours to be deposited in the Palace. 
 
 In the evening an official called to announce 
 that the King had gone to Babelsberg, some 
 little distance out of Berlin, but His Majesty would 
 ueturn in the morning, and that a telegram would 
 be sent announcing the time fixed for the
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 131 
 
 audience. The next morning the telegram duly 
 arrived commanding my presence at 3.20 P.M., and 
 requesting me to take my sketches with me. I 
 arrived punctually, and was shown into Count 
 Hohenloe's room. He took my drawings to the 
 King, and shortly returned to conduct me into 
 His Majesty's presence, and I found him looking 
 at the sketches. The King received me very 
 kindly, chatting affably in French, and finally gave 
 me a commission to paint two large drawings 
 from my sketches of Babelsberg and Potsdam 
 palaces. 
 
 An old friend, named Blackwell, who was British 
 Consul at Stettin on the Baltic, learning that we 
 were in Berlin, sent us a pressing invitation to pay 
 him a visit before returning to England. We 
 accordingly went and stayed a few days with him. 
 On our way home we stopped again for a short time 
 at Berlin, where, after a great amount of trouble, we 
 succeeded in finding Mendelssohn's grave in the 
 Dreifaltigen Kirchhof. We placed a wreath on it, 
 and brought away a sprig from the ivy which was 
 growing there. This sprig we brought home with 
 us and planted in front of our house, where it grew 
 rapidly. Hundreds of slips from it have at various 
 times been given to friends and admirers of the
 
 132 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 great musician, including Mendelssohn's own 
 daughter. 
 
 Soon after our return I sent, for the acceptance 
 of the Crown Princess, who was staying at 
 Sandringham, a drawing made from a sketch of 
 Lancaster, which she had seen and admired when 
 in Germany. It was graciously accepted. Later I 
 was summoned to Windsor to submit the sketches, 
 made whilst I was in Germany, to the Queen, and 
 Her Majesty was so pleased with them that she 
 gave me a commission for drawings from several 
 of them. 
 
 About this time, 1864, I succeeded in purchas- 
 ing various cottages close to " The Firs." These 
 I had enlarged and improved in various ways, 
 in order to encourage morality and cleanli- 
 ness amongst the labourers and to brighten 
 up their homes. We also commenced holding 
 small flower and vegetable shows in our grounds, 
 to induce the cottagers to take interest in 
 their gardens. These shows increased in size 
 and importance each year, until the occasion 
 became quite a gala day. All our neighbours 
 attended, and a distribution of prizes terminated 
 the proceedings. 
 
 A bazaar was held in Paris in this year for
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 133 
 
 the benefit of French charities, and at the request 
 of the Duchesse d'Aumale I contributed several 
 drawings, which, I trust, helped to increase the 
 funds. 
 
 As we now spent most of our time at Great 
 Missenden, and I only went up to London to teach 
 during the season, we gave up our house in 
 Osnaburgh Terrace, and decided for the future 
 only to take furnished apartments as we required 
 them. The first were at Cambridge Terrace in 
 the following year, 1865. Afterwards we took 
 rooms for several years in Norfolk Square. 
 
 In June George Fripp resigned the post of 
 Secretary to the " Old Society." Several members 
 approached me with a view to inducing me to 
 accept the office, which, after much persuasion, I 
 agreed to do, and at the next general meeting of 
 the Society 1 was unanimously elected. I held 
 the Secretaryship until December 1870, when I 
 resigned the post on the same evening as Frederick 
 Taylor gave up the Presidentship. 
 
 In the autumn of 1865 we paid another visit to 
 Venice, accompanied by Sidney Percy. He, with 
 his wife and children, had come to reside near to us 
 at Great Missenden. He was a clever landscape 
 painter in oils, of a gentle disposition and of a
 
 134 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 retiring nature. We found them very pleasant 
 neighbours, and a friendship sprang up between the 
 two families which continued until the death of 
 both himself and his wife. 
 
 As cholera was raging in Italy in this year, we 
 had to undergo two fumigations before arriving 
 at Verona, and had to submit to it on two more 
 occasions before reaching Venice, where I occupied 
 most of my time in making sketches from a 
 gondola. I found my old gondolier, Jacomo, 
 still alive, and delighted to see me. I had 
 employed him on each occasion since my first 
 visit to Venice, twenty-five years previously. We 
 returned home through Switzerland, and stayed a 
 few days in Paris to show Percy the sights, as it 
 was his first visit to the Continent. Owing to the 
 war between Prussia and Austria, in the following 
 year we then confined our travels to the north of 
 England, and visited friends in the district. 
 
 My duties as Secretary of the Old Water-Colour 
 Society now necessitated my paying frequent visits 
 to town. The Queen of Denmark, accompanied 
 by the Prince of Wales, Princess Louise, and the 
 Grand Duchess of Mecklenberg-Strelitz, paid a 
 visit to the Exhibition in 1868. I showed Her 
 Majesty round the gallery, but owing to her
 
 A STREET IN INNSBRUCK 
 (Size 18 X 13J inches.)
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 135 
 
 deafness, experienced much difficulty in explaining 
 the various subjects of interest to her. 
 
 In the following year, 1868, Sir Anthony and 
 Lady de Rothschild held an exhibition, in the grounds 
 of their house at Halton, of the several industries 
 carried on in the county of Bucks ; it comprised 
 lace, straw- plaiting, and various other work. Mr. 
 Disraeli opened the Exhibition, and gave an 
 address to about three thousand people, who had 
 assembled. They arrived in carriages, carts, and 
 even in canal boats. Many well-known people 
 were present, including the Bishop of Oxford and 
 Miss Burdett Coutts. The exhibition remained 
 open for several days, and it was a great success. 
 
 For some years I had been very busy with my 
 work, receiving a very large number of commissions. 
 On one day an unknown gentleman arrived 
 unexpectedly at " The Firs." He informed me that 
 he was a great admirer of my drawings and asked to 
 see some of them. He selected one of the value 
 of sixty pounds, giving me a cheque for the 
 amount on the spot, and took the drawing away 
 with him after he had had luncheon with us. 
 
 In 1869 we were invited by the sister of the 
 Marquis of Salisbury, Lady Mildred Beresford 
 Hope, to whose daughter I had given drawing
 
 136 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 lessons, to pay a visit at her country seat, Bedgebury, 
 We arrived by the same train as Professor Owen, 
 another guest, and had a splendid drive through 
 the park to the house, where a party of about 
 twenty was assembled, including Dr. Phelps, the 
 Master of Sydney Sussex College, and brother of 
 the famous actor. We were driven by Lady 
 Mildred to Bayham Abbey, where I renewed the 
 acquaintance of the handsome Marquis of Camden, 
 whose sudden death occurred shortly after the birth 
 of his heir. On another day most of the party 
 were driven in several carriages to Scotney Castle, 
 Mr. E. Hussey's home, where the weights of all the 
 guests were taken and registered in a book, kept for 
 the purpose as a record of their visit. During one 
 evening Professor Owen entertained the company 
 by reading from Tennyson and William Morris, 
 which he did splendidly. As the Sunday was wet, 
 in the morning we all attended service in the 
 private chapel, where Mr. A. J. Beresford Hope, 
 M.P., himself officiated as clergyman, and in the 
 afternoon we visited the stables. L,ady Mildred 
 generally rode in a carriage drawn by four white 
 horses with postilions and an outrider, both in the 
 country and in town. 
 
 From about this period our tours abroad became
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 
 
 137 
 
 more frequent, and, owing to my love for sketching 
 the picturesque buildings to be found in the quaint 
 old towns, hardly a year passed without my wife 
 and myself paying a visit to some part of the 
 Continent. In 1871 we made a short trip to 
 Germany, visiting Bonn in order to attend the 
 Beethoven Festival, and afterwards stayed at Ems. 
 
 PASSAU. 
 
 From here we made numerous excursions to 
 Limburg, Runkel, Weilburg, Giessen, Marburg, 
 and other towns in the valley of the River Lahn for 
 the purpose of making sketches. 
 
 Three years afterwards we made a more extended 
 tour through Germany. Starting from Cologne, 
 we went to Heidelberg, where I made a sketch of 
 a wonderful sunset from the castle terrace. Next 
 
 18
 
 138 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 we proceeded to Wiirzburg, and then to Ratisbon, 
 where we visited the Walhalla, built by Emperor 
 William I. for the statues of German generals. 
 Our next stopping-place was Passau. The town 
 was decorated with flags and garlands in com- 
 memoration of the victory of Sedan, and alive with 
 bands, guns, and fireworks. Here we took the 
 steamer down the Danube to Linz, the river wind- 
 ing in a most picturesque manner. After stopping 
 the night at Linz we went to Salzburg, arriving on 
 " Maria fest " day. Every one, in gala costume, was 
 exchanging greetings, and only the peasants in their 
 prettily quaint costumes appeared to be devout. 
 We then turned northward and stayed at Prague 
 and Dresden en route for Berlin. At the first-named 
 city we witnessed the funeral of a general of the army, 
 and were profoundly impressed by the perform- 
 ance of the Dead March in Saul by combined bands 
 with muffled drums. Nothing could have been more 
 solemn or grand. On arrival at our hotel in Berlin 
 I received a telegram from the Crown Princess of 
 Germany requesting me to call at the Palace the 
 next afternoon. I had previously communicated 
 to Her Royal Highness, in accordance with her 
 request, my intention of visiting Berlin. I was 
 most kindly received by both the Prince and
 
 POTSDAM (1874) 
 (Size 10 X 6 inches.)
 
 ill-
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 139 
 
 Princess, who invited me to visit them at the Neues 
 Palais at Potsdam on the following morning. I 
 arrived at 11 A.M., and drove out with the Prince 
 and Princess, accompanied by Count Seckendorf, 
 on a sketching expedition, and afterwards returned 
 to the Palace, where I had the honour of dining 
 with them. The Princess showed me some of her 
 paintings and sketches in oil, which were excellent 
 On the next morning, in accordance with their 
 desire, I called to make my adieus. They both 
 shook me cordially by the hand, and I must confess 
 I felt proud of having grasped the hand of a man 
 who had wielded the sword at Sedan. 
 
 Afterwards my wife and I proceeded on our 
 return journey to England, stopping at Magdeburg 
 and Halberstadt, at the suggestion of the Crown 
 Princess, to make some more sketches in these 
 quaint old towns. 
 
 At Christmas in the next year, 1875, the Crown 
 Princess sent me the first part of a chromolitho- 
 graphic work on Potsdam, with views of the Neues 
 Palais and the Sans Souci, good but rather strong 
 in colour, and I much appreciated Her Royal 
 Highness's kind remembrance of me. Later I 
 received from the Princess the completion of the 
 publication.
 
 140 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 It was in this year that we were invited to stay 
 a few days at Hampden House, the seat of the 
 Duke of Buckinghamshire, which had been rented 
 by the Grant Duffs. We occupied Queen 
 Elizabeth's bedroom, which has a charming view 
 
 from the windows, looking down a wide glade 
 towards Missenden. I sketched the lovely old 
 cedars, as well as the picturesque staircase in this 
 historic mansion. The views from it over the 
 surrounding country are magnificent. Our host 
 and hostess entertained us delightfully with
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 141 
 
 experiences of their lives in India. I again met 
 Count Seckendorf, who was also staying in the 
 house. He had come to gain information in view 
 of his approaching visit, with the Prince of Wales, 
 to India. 
 
 In the spring of 1876 we made another visit to 
 Italy, travelling to Rome by way of Turin, Genoa, 
 and Pisa, stopping at each of these interesting 
 towns whilst I made numerous sketches. At 
 Rome we met Penry Williams and Arthur Glennie, 
 both painters, who had settled in that city. 
 Williams had long been a resident in Rome, as he 
 had been there since 1827. He painted in both 
 oil and water colours, and was for a short time an 
 Associate of the Old Water- Colour Society. 
 Glennie, who was a Member of the Old Society, 
 and contributed regularly to its Exhibitions, had 
 been in Rome for about twenty years. He lived 
 on the sixth story of a house in Piazza Margana, 
 and had a small garden on the roof. After staying 
 for some time in Rome we afterwards visited 
 Naples and Pompeii. 
 
 Our tour in the following year, 1877, was once 
 more to lovely Venice, where I never grew tired 
 of sketching its glorious buildings, and where 
 we were welcomed by our old gondolier, Jacomo.
 
 142 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 He did not recognise us at first, but suddenly 
 exclaimed to my wife, " Ah, you are the lady who 
 gave me this," pointing at the same time to a 
 bright scarf which he was wearing. It had been a 
 parting gift to him on our last visit in 1865. He 
 was a most devoted servant, and used to attend to 
 my wife with the greatest care during my absence 
 whilst sketching. At Jacomo's earnest request we 
 paid a visit to his cottage, where we found his 
 handsome wife and her sister engaged in bead work. 
 In the autumn of this year we made a short trip 
 along the southern coast of Devonshire, stopping 
 at Dartmouth, Salcombe, and Kingsbridge, where 
 I made numerous sketches as usual. 
 
 During the years 1879 and 1880 we again visited 
 Italy, going in the former year to Rome, and in 
 the latter to Venice, where we were once more 
 warmly welcomed by our old gondolier. It was 
 during this visit I first saw steamboats plying on 
 the Grand Canal, much to the disgust of the 
 gondoliers, who refused to take their gondolas out 
 of the way of them, and ran a great risk of being 
 run down. 
 
 After having given instruction in drawing for 
 more than fifty years, I abandoned all teaching in 
 the year 1882, much to my regret, for it had been
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 
 
 143 
 
 the means of my making lasting friendship with 
 very many interesting families. In this year 
 Cleopatra's Needle was brought up the Thames, 
 and as I had sketched the Luxor on its arrival in 
 the Seine, I made two small 
 drawings of the former. I pre- 
 sented them to Sir Erasmus 
 Wilson as a memento of the 
 interest which I felt in his 
 great undertaking. He sent 
 me a warm letter of thanks, 
 and begged me to accept a 
 copy of his book, The Egypt 
 of the Past, in return. 
 
 In May 1883, whilst we 
 were staying in town, my 
 wife, whose health had been 
 failing for some time, com- 
 plained of feeling unwell 
 whilst lunching with some VENICE. 
 
 friends in Grosvenor Square, 
 
 and on reaching our apartments she went to bed, 
 from which she never rose again. She was attended 
 by Sir William Jenner and our own doctor without 
 avail, for after lingering for a month she quietly 
 passed away.
 
 144 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 In the following year, feeling my loneliness 
 insupportable, I married again, and took my new 
 wife to Paris to show her all the old haunts of my 
 early days. Afterwards we went to Switzerland, 
 where we spent a most enjoyable time amongst 
 the exquisite scenery of the beautiful lakes. Our 
 return journey was made down the Rhine to 
 Cologne, and then on to Brussels, arriving there in 
 the midst of the municipal elections. The citizens 
 were so excited that at midnight the soldiers had 
 to be called out to disperse the mob. 
 
 In succeeding years I confined my annual tours 
 to England, and visited in succession Devon and 
 Cornwall, the Lake district, Yorkshire, and the 
 eastern counties. In the year 1892, however, 
 having now reached eighty years of age, I had a 
 strong desire to once more visit Italy, feeling that 
 if I were to put it off any longer I might never see 
 that wonderful country again. So early in April I 
 started off with my wife on my last foreign tour to 
 bid farewell to the many picturesque old towns 
 which had raised so much enthusiasm within me 
 more than half a century ago. We crossed from 
 Dover to Calais, and travelled all night direct to 
 Basle. On the next day I went to the market- 
 place and made some sketches of the picturesque
 
 DUNSTER CASTLE (1847) 
 (Size 10J x 14 inches.)
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 145 
 
 fruit and flower stalls with umbrellas over them. 
 From Basle we proceeded to Lucerne, Milan, and 
 Verona, stopping at each place to make sketches. 
 Finally we arrived at Venice and put up at our old 
 quarters, Hotel Europa, facing the Grand Canal, 
 where I had first stayed in 1840 and on each 
 subsequent visit. On the evening of our arrival 
 the hotel was serenaded by a party of singers in 
 a gondola lit up by Chinese lanterns. Their 
 singing was charming, and as they rowed away, 
 followed by hundreds of other gondolas, the 
 music became fainter and fainter until lost in 
 the distance a fairy scene only to be witnessed 
 in Venice. After a fortnight of perfect enjoy- 
 ment, intermingled with the pleasures of sketching, 
 spending our days chiefly in a gondola, and visit- 
 ing the Lido and the glorious shores of the 
 Adriatic, we reluctantly left Venice, for myself at 
 least for the last time, and proceeded to Bologna. 
 Whilst here we witnessed a May Day meeting 
 of Socialists. There was much disorder, and the 
 soldiers had to be called out to suppress the 
 mob. Fortunately a heavy storm of rain came 
 on, which scattered the Socialists more effectually 
 than the soldiers could have done. We next pro- 
 ceeded to Naples, stopping at Ancona on the way. 
 
 19
 
 146 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 It is a city beautifully situated on the Adriatic, 
 but its inhabitants are none too cleanly or honest. 
 At Naples we stayed at an hotel delightfully situated 
 opposite the public gardens and facing the Bay. 
 At night the scene, with Vesuvius on one side 
 and Posillipo on the other, and the Bay flooded 
 with moonlight, was indescribably lovely. After a 
 stay of a fortnight, visiting Pompeii and the Isle of 
 Capri, and enjoying lovely drives in the neighbour- 
 hood, we left for Rome, where we revisited all the 
 grand sights, and attended a battle of flowers in the 
 Borghese Gardens, at which Queen Marghuerita was 
 present. Our next halting - place was Florence, 
 where we were present at the great festival of Corpus 
 Christi at the Duomo. We next proceeded to 
 Genoa, where we witnessed more cruelty to horses 
 than in any other town in Italy, and our appeals 
 on behalf of the dumb animals were in vain. 
 From here we went, via Domo d' Ossola and the 
 Simplon Pass, to Paris, stopping at Lausanne on 
 the way. The weather in Paris was intensely 
 hot, so that we stayed there only long enough 
 to visit an unattractive Exhibition at the Salon, 
 and returned home to find it so cold that we 
 were glad of a fire. 
 
 Later years have passed uneventfully, broken
 
 I 
 
 ROTALSOCIETToFRUNTERS 
 m -WATER- COLOU R S * 
 28 TH -OFJULT-I9O2-TO 
 WILLIAM- CALLOW- E 
 R-W-S F-RC S 
 
 -Vthe freshen! S^C-ouncil of tke I\oyal6ociety 
 of Painters inWaterColours,wtfh The unanimous 
 approbafioo. crf*all lhfc T^etubcrs tcn.bcr _you our raojf 
 sinoerf con^aTulations on tke. occasion oTjyour 
 
 tortfafcoy. ^h ^^ ^^ -J^ 
 
 VvE wish to mark this evcnmj] occasion by express! 
 to^ou our cordial fij ^afe/uj appreciafion o?]your loyalty 
 to th.e SocieTy, frorw The ^ear 1838. wh.cn. _you were " 
 1 elected an Xssociatt , ^OWTI To the preseraJ' time Tear 
 after^year. at both the Summer <Sj> Winter Eyhibifio/36. your^ 
 work vas to be relief upon To ^race our watts we. (eel 
 Deeply that our appre.ianon oTsuck constancy joineo to suet 
 merif can never be sufficient ccrcss^) in 
 
 A CONGRATULATORY ADDRESS FROM THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF PAINTERS IN 
 WATER COLOURS ON ATTAINING HIS NINETIETH BIRTHDAY.
 
 AT GREAT MISSENDEN 
 
 147 
 
 only by the presentation of a congratulatory address 
 to me by the President and Council of the Royal 
 Water Colour Society on the occasion of my nine- 
 tieth birthday, and frequent visits of the President 
 and many of my fellow-members on my subsequent 
 
 DIETZ. 
 
 birthdays and New Year's Days. In 1907 I was 
 persuaded to have a " One Man's Show " at the 
 Leicester Galleries. It was most successful, and 
 resulted in my receiving many hundreds of letters 
 of congratulation from all parts of England. I
 
 148 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 visited the Exhibition myself on the 26th October. 
 It was a lovely bright morning when we left home, 
 but after being delayed for some time by an 
 accident on the railway, we arrived in London to 
 find it enveloped in fog.
 
 % 
 
 HKRKFOlin. 
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS EXHIBITED AT THE ROYAL 
 SOCIETY OF PAINTERS IN WATER-COLOURS 
 
 1838 
 
 Entrance to the Port of 
 Marseilles. 
 
 Castle and Village of 
 Montrejeau,near Bag- 
 neres de Bigorre, 
 Pyrenees. 
 
 The Town of Vienne, on 
 the Rhone. 
 
 The Town of Avignon, 
 on the Rhone. 
 
 Montpellier from the 
 Aqueduct, South of 
 France. 
 
 Fort St. Jean and Part 
 of the Bay, Mar- 
 seilles. 
 
 The Old Bridge at Avig- 
 non, on the Rhone. 
 
 View of the Vignemale 
 from Lac du Gaube, 
 Upper Pyrenees. 
 
 1839 
 
 The Town of Schaff- 
 hausen, Switzerland. 
 
 Distant View of Heidel- 
 berg, with Rhine 
 River. 
 
 Mayence on the Rhine. 
 
 The Town of Lucerne, on 
 the Lake of the Quatre 
 Cantons. 
 
 Lake of Geneva from 
 the Church of St. 
 Martin, Vevey. 
 
 Ehrenbreitstein and Cob- 
 149 
 
 lentz from the heights 
 of Pfaffendorf. 
 
 On the Rhine at Rhense 
 Castle of Marks- 
 burg in the Dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Rheinfels and St. Goar 
 from Castle Katz, on 
 the Rhine. 
 
 1840 
 
 Interior of the Port of 
 
 Havre. 
 View of Lyons from near 
 
 the Junction of the 
 
 Rhone and Soane. 
 LowestoftFishing- Boats. 
 Tain and Tournon, on 
 
 the Rhone.
 
 150 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Castle and Town of 
 Heidelberg from the 
 Terrace. 
 
 Rheinfels and St. Goar 
 from St. Goarhausen, 
 Rhine. 
 
 The Alice Blanche from 
 Col de la Seigne, 
 Savoy. 
 
 Lowest oft Fishing- 
 Boats preparing to 
 launch. 
 
 1841 
 
 Oberwesel, on the Rhine. 
 Pizzo Falcone from the 
 
 Villa Reale, Naples. 
 Naples from Porta del 
 
 Carmine. 
 Gravedoua, on the Lake 
 
 Como. 
 
 The Rialto, Venice. 
 Mecrenas' Villa and Cas- 
 
 catella of Tivoli. 
 Neapolitan Fishing-Boat 
 
 Sunrise. 
 Venice from the Riva 
 
 degli Schiavoni. 
 
 1842 
 
 View of Como. 
 
 Naples from the Sea 
 Sunrise. 
 
 View from the Church- 
 yard at Thun, Switzer- 
 land. 
 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 Venice. 
 
 Chateau of Dieppe, Coast 
 of Normandy. 
 
 In the Bay of Naples. 
 
 Granville, Coast of Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 Lake of Wallenstatt, 
 from Weser, Switzer- 
 land. 
 
 1843 
 
 Fishing-Boat off Dieppe. 
 
 Citadel at Plymouth- 
 Mount Batten and 
 Cat water in the Dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Verona from the Old 
 Bridge. 
 
 Hospital of the Grimsel 
 and Lake of Klensee, 
 Switzerland. 
 
 Distant View of Exeter. 
 
 Street in Bologna, look- 
 ing towards the Piazza. 
 
 Torquay, looking over 
 Torbay. 
 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 Venice, from the 
 Dogana. 
 
 1844 
 
 Durham. 
 
 Santa Salute and Dog- 
 ana, Venice. 
 
 Jed burgh Abbey, Scot- 
 land. 
 
 Entrance to the Port 
 of Treport, Coast of 
 Normandy. 
 
 Wetterhorn and Upper 
 Glacier, Grindelwald, 
 Switzerland. 
 
 Street in Bologna. 
 
 Ehrenbreitstein, on the 
 Rhine. 
 
 Edinburgh from Salis- 
 bury Crags. 
 
 1845 
 
 Cochem, on the Moselle. 
 Lake of Geneva from 
 
 Vevey Morning. 
 Old Houses at Trarbach, 
 
 on the Moselle. 
 
 Houses of the Francs 
 Bateliers and Church 
 of St. Nicholas on the 
 Canal of Ghent. 
 
 Vico Bay of Naples. 
 
 Street in Calais. 
 
 The Piazza Falcone, 
 etc., from the Quai 
 St. Lucia at Naples. 
 
 Entrance to the Port of 
 Havre. 
 
 1846 
 
 Street in Rotterdam, 
 with the Church of 
 St. Lawrence. 
 
 Castle and Town of Trar- 
 bach, on the Moselle. 
 
 Dutch Fishing -Boat at 
 Dort. 
 
 Nieder Heimbach, on 
 the Rhine Bach- 
 arach in the Distance. 
 
 Cathedral of Antwerp 
 from Rue du Port. 
 
 Rotterdam. 
 
 The Rialto, Venice. 
 
 Old Bridge at Avignon, 
 on the Rhone. 
 
 1847 
 
 Amsterdam Dutch 
 Boats running in 
 Stiff Breeze. 
 
 Piazzadel Duomo,Trent, 
 in the Tyrol. 
 
 Casa Grimani, on the 
 Grand Canal, Venice. 
 
 Bridge of Sighs, Venice, 
 looking towards the 
 Grand Canal. 
 
 Richmond Castle, York- 
 shire. 
 
 Melrose Abbey from the 
 Banks of the Tweed. 
 
 Scarborough Sunrise.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 151 
 
 The Pfalz with C'aub and 
 the Castle of Guten- 
 fels, on the Rhine. 
 
 1848 
 
 Ilfracombe, from Cap- 
 stone Hill, looking 
 towards Hillsborough. 
 
 Distant View of Cologne, 
 on the Rhine. 
 
 Water Mill on the West 
 Lynn, Lynmouth, 
 North Devon. 
 
 The Neu-Miinster, etc., 
 Wiirzburg, Bavaria 
 (during the Fair). 
 
 Lynmouth from the Sea, 
 North Devon. 
 
 The Rath-Haus, on the 
 Platz at Lucerne. 
 
 Cochem, on the Moselle. 
 
 Glacier du Rhone and 
 the Garlingstock, Pass 
 of Furca, Switzerland. 
 
 1849 
 
 Distant View of Mon- 
 mouth. 
 
 Distant View of Melrose 
 Abbey. 
 
 The Gronsel Merkt, 
 Ghent. 
 
 View of Ross from the 
 Wye. 
 
 Llanthony Abbey, Mon- 
 mouthshire. 
 
 An Old Street in Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 Goodrich Court Dis- 
 tant View of the Castle. 
 
 Lugano, on the Lake of 
 Lugano. 
 
 Abergavenny from the 
 Monmouth Road. 
 
 Paris View of the 
 
 Tuileries, Pout 
 
 Royale, etc. 
 Old House, High Street, 
 
 Tewkesbury. 
 Maison des Francs 
 
 Bateliers at Ghent. 
 The Neustadt, Inns- 
 bruck. 
 Part of the Ruins of 
 
 Raglan Castle. 
 West Entrance to 
 
 Tintern Abbey. 
 Village of Cauterets, 
 
 Hautes Pyrenees. 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 1850 
 
 Inveraray Castle, the 
 
 Seat of his Grace the 
 
 Duke of Argyll. 
 Lucerne, Lake of the 
 
 Quatre Cantons. 
 Bay of Arran from 
 
 Larn lush Road looking 
 
 towards Brodick and 
 
 Goatfell. 
 Venice on the Grand 
 
 Canal Palazzo Con- 
 
 tarini, delle Belle 
 
 Arti, etc. 
 The Tolbooth, Glasgow, 
 
 from the Saltmarket. 
 The Trongate, Glasgow, 
 
 the Tron Church, etc. 
 On the Chiaja, Naples. 
 Trent, Valley of the 
 
 Adige. 
 
 The Piazzetta, Venice. 
 Old House in the 
 
 Neustadt, Innsbruck. 
 Weymouth, Dorsetshire 
 
 Bill of Portland in 
 
 the Distance. 
 Tours, on the Loire. 
 View of Inveraray, oil 
 
 Loch Fyne. 
 
 Street in Calais, looking 
 towards the Grande 
 Place. 
 
 Old Gateway, Great 
 Malvern, Worcester- 
 shire. 
 
 The Butter Cross, 
 Winchester. 
 
 Interior of the Bishop's 
 Court, Liege. 
 
 Dutch Fishing-Boats, 
 Amsterdam. 
 
 Water Mill at Lee, North 
 Devon. 
 
 1851 
 
 Winchester Cathedral 
 
 from the Quay. 
 The Town and Fortress 
 
 of Bellinzona, on the 
 
 Ticino. 
 Tower on the Vrijdags 
 
 Markt, Ghent. 
 Cauterets, Pyrenees. 
 Durham Cathedral from 
 
 the River. 
 Castle and Village of 
 
 Angera from Arona, 
 
 Lake Maggiore. 
 On the Rokin Canal, 
 
 Amsterdam. 
 The Weighing House at 
 
 Amsterdam. 
 Rue St. Honore, Paris, 
 
 looking towards the 
 
 Palais Royal. 
 Distant View of Lan- 
 caster from the 
 
 Meadows. 
 The Rialto, Venice, from 
 
 the Fish Market. 
 The Piazzetta, Venice, 
 
 looking towards San 
 
 Giorgio. 
 The Market House, Ross, 
 
 on the Wye.
 
 152 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Remains of St. Mary's 
 Priory, Monmouth. 
 
 The Blackfriars, Here- 
 ford. 
 
 The Trongate, Glasgow, 
 from the Corner of the 
 High Street. 
 
 II Ponte della Paglia 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 Venice. 
 
 The Pantiles, Tunbridge 
 Wells Morning. 
 
 Blois, on the Loire 
 Evening. 
 
 Old House at Berncastel, 
 on the Moselle. 
 
 1852 
 
 Palazzo Barbarigo (the 
 
 Residence of Titian), 
 
 Venice. 
 Looking into the Grand 
 
 Place at Lille from 
 
 the Place du Theatre. 
 Distant View of Ross, 
 
 on the Wye. 
 Grand Entrance 
 
 to Hurstmonceaux 
 
 Castle, Sussex. 
 Abergavenny, Mon- 
 mouthshire The 
 
 Holy Mountain in the 
 
 Distance. 
 Distant View of Naples 
 
 Early Morning. 
 Chateau d'Amboise, on 
 
 the Loire. 
 The Belfry at Ghent, 
 
 from the Marche' au 
 
 Grain. 
 The Stone Bow, High 
 
 Street, Lincoln. 
 Part of the Cathedral, 
 
 Abbeville. 
 Castle and Village of 
 
 Mont Richard, on the 
 
 Cher, Department 
 
 Loire-et-Cher. 
 Les Halles, Grande Place, 
 
 Bruges. 
 
 Place d'Armes, Calais. 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 
 Venice. 
 Church of the Santa 
 
 Salute, Venice, from 
 
 the Belle Arti. 
 Maison des Francs 
 
 Bateliers, Ghent. 
 Remains of Nether Hall, 
 
 Essex. 
 Interior of the Port of 
 
 Havre. 
 The Guildhall, High 
 
 Street, Exeter. 
 Water Mill at Lee, near 
 
 llfracombe. 
 Chapel of St. Jean at 
 
 Orleans. 
 Chapel of the Holy 
 
 Blood, Bruges. 
 
 1853 
 
 The Burg Strasse, Han- 
 over. 
 
 The Rialto, Venice. 
 
 Church of San Giovanni 
 and San Paolo with 
 the Monument of 
 Colleone. 
 
 Cathedral of Abbeville 
 from the Grand Place. 
 
 Mount Blanc from 
 Chamouny. 
 
 The Niewe Kerk on the 
 Dam, Amsterdam. 
 
 The High Street, 
 Lincoln. 
 
 Interior of the Court of 
 the Wartburg, the 
 Place of Luther's Con- 
 finement in 1521. 
 
 The Market-Place, 
 Eisenach. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville, 
 
 Bruges. 
 At Malines, near the 
 
 Fish Market. 
 The Market-Place, 
 
 Padua. 
 Entrance to the Court 
 
 of the Ducal Palace, 
 
 Venice. 
 The Pantiles, Tunbridge 
 
 Wells. 
 The Hotel de Ville, 
 
 Ghent 
 Interior of the Port of 
 
 Marseilles. 
 St. Mary's Hall, 
 
 Coventry. 
 Castle of Hammerstein, 
 
 from Andernach. 
 Frankfort-on-the-Maine. 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 
 Venice. 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 1854 
 
 Gateway of Battle Abbey, 
 Sussex. 
 
 Basle, Switzerland, from 
 the Bridge. 
 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 Venice, looking to- 
 wards the Foscari 
 Palace. 
 
 Eastgate Street, Chester 
 Autumnal Evening. 
 
 Oberwesel, on the Rhine, 
 with the Castle of 
 Schomberg. 
 
 Venice. 
 
 La Place d'Armes, Lille. 
 
 Dresden from the Gar- 
 dens of the Japanese 
 Palace. 
 
 The Rath-Haus, on the 
 Market Place, Leipzig.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 153 
 
 Orleans. 
 
 The Ca' d' Oro de Veaise 
 from the Foot of the 
 Rialto. 
 
 The Castle of Katz from 
 St Goar,on the Rhine. 
 
 Heidelberg 1 from above 
 the Bridge. 
 
 Old Houses in North- 
 gate Street, Chester 
 
 Tain and Tournou, on 
 the Rhone. 
 
 From the Ponte della 
 Pieta, Venice. 
 
 Church of San Pietro, 
 Como. 
 
 The Breiteweg at Mag- 
 deburg. 
 
 From theFoscari Palace, 
 Venice. 
 
 Neapolitan Fishing- 
 Boats. 
 
 The Fish Market, Ghent. 
 
 The Dom Platz, Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 1855 
 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 
 from the Leone Bianco, 
 
 Venice. 
 Church of St. Pierre, 
 
 Caen. 
 
 Mayence, on the Rhine. 
 The Dom - Kirche at 
 
 Wiirzburg from the 
 
 Bridge, during the 
 
 Fair. 
 The Old Feudal Town 
 
 of Oberwesel, on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 Castelnuovo from the 
 
 Molo, Venice. 
 Lutheran Church at 
 
 Bacharach, on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 On the Place du Theatre, 
 
 Lille. 
 
 San Giorgio, Venice. 
 Castle of St. Angelo, 
 
 Rome. 
 Canal at Ghent, with 
 
 the Church of St. 
 
 Nicholas. 
 Crossing the Rialto, 
 
 Venice. 
 Pallazzo Foscari from 
 
 the Belle Arti, Venice. 
 The Piazza at Padua. 
 A Street in Verona. 
 The Belfry at Evreux. 
 Corso Francese, Milan, 
 Evening at Sutton 
 
 Valence. 
 Doune Castle. 
 Eton College Sunset. 
 Old House at Ghent 
 The Market Cross at 
 
 Salisbury. 
 Distant View at Tewkes- 
 
 bury. 
 Tell's Chapel, Lake of 
 
 the Four Cantons. 
 Foregate Street, outside 
 
 the Walls, Chester. 
 
 1856 
 
 Huy, on the Meuse. 
 The Santa Salute, Venice. 
 Old Houses on the 
 
 Rhone at Geneva. 
 The Hotel de Ville, 
 
 Brussels. 
 Close Gate and Widows' 
 
 College, Salisbury. 
 Werner's Chapel from 
 
 the Inn Yard, Bachar- 
 ach. 
 The Bear and Billet Inn, 
 
 Bridge Street, Chester. 
 The Rialto, Venice. 
 Winchester. 
 The Markt Strasse and 
 
 Rath-Haus, Hanover. 
 
 Rue St. Pierre, Caen. 
 
 Trent from the Bank 
 of the Adige. 
 
 Bellaggio, Lago di 
 Como. 
 
 The Trongate, Glasgow. 
 
 Ancien Port de la Ville, 
 Bruges. 
 
 Goodrich Court, on the 
 Wye. 
 
 Arundel Castle, Sussex. 
 
 Durham. 
 
 The Contariui Palace, 
 Venice. 
 
 Canal Scene, Lucerne. 
 
 Ancient Manor- House 
 near the Abbey Gate, 
 Malvern, now re- 
 moved. 
 
 Portlade, near Brighton. 
 
 The Ca' d' Oro, Venice. 
 
 1857 
 
 Double Butcher Row, 
 
 Shrewsbury. 
 A Buckinghamshire 
 
 Lane Sunset. 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 St. Sauveur, Caen. 
 Venice. 
 Schloss Elz. 
 Hotel de Ville, Lille. 
 The Castle at Rhein- 
 
 fels. 
 Rue de la Grosse Hor- 
 
 loge, Rouen Morn- 
 ing. 
 Exeter from the 
 
 Meadows. 
 
 II Ponte Rotto, Rome. 
 Naples. 
 
 San Giorgio, Venice. 
 Lyumouth, Devon. 
 Quai de Rosaire, 
 
 Bruges. 
 
 20
 
 154 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 On the Bridge at Basle. 
 On the Rhineat Cologne. 
 Piazza dei Signori, 
 
 Verona. 
 
 Venice from the Dogaua. 
 Ehrenbreitstein. 
 Conisboro' Castle, 
 
 Yorkshire. 
 On the Lago Maggiore. 
 
 1858 
 
 The Piazzetta, Venice. 
 Antwerp St. Paul's. 
 Stirling Castle from the 
 
 Meadows. 
 Old House on the Quay 
 
 at Malines. 
 San Giorgio, Venice. 
 Thun Early Morning. 
 On the Old Walls of 
 
 Bacharach. 
 The Leaning Towers of 
 
 Bologna. 
 The Water Gate, Hon- 
 
 fleur. 
 St. Margaret's Church, 
 
 Gotha. 
 Venice. 
 The Kauf-Haus, Cob- 
 
 lentz. 
 Rouen, from the Banks 
 
 of the Seine. 
 The Cathedral, Chartres 
 
 Sunrise. 
 Verona The Piazza 
 
 delle Erbe. 
 Geneva. 
 The Keep, Castle Rising, 
 
 Norfolk. 
 
 On the Adige, Verona. 
 The Rialto, Venice. 
 Brighton Beach. 
 Above Schaffhausen. 
 Castle and Town of 
 
 Beaucaire, on the 
 
 Rhone. 
 
 1859 
 
 Saumur, on the Loire. 
 
 Piazza Grande, Bologna. 
 
 Bolton Abbey Sunset. 
 
 Pass of St. Gothard. 
 
 Castle and Town of 
 Richmond, Yorkshire. 
 
 Ducal Palace, Venice 
 Early Morning. 
 
 Hotel de Ville, Antwerp. 
 
 Old Bridge at Nurem- 
 berg. 
 
 Place au Change, Nantes. 
 
 Ruins of St. Benet's 
 Abbey, near Norwich. 
 
 Rue de la Grosse 
 Horloge, Rouen. 
 
 On the Adige, Verona. 
 
 Temple of Vesta, Tivoli. 
 
 Stolzenfels, on the Rhine. 
 
 Grand Canal, Venice. 
 
 Fraukfort-on-the-Maine. 
 
 I860 
 
 Ehrenbreitstein . 
 
 Brunswick. 
 
 Place St. Pharailde, 
 Ghent. 
 
 Market Day at Rich- 
 mond, Yorkshire. 
 
 Venice from the Rialto 
 Morning. 
 
 Monmouth Castle. 
 
 Tivoli with Villa d' Este 
 and the Cascatelle. 
 
 The Wartburg The 
 Scene of Luther's Im- 
 prisonment. 
 
 Autumn Afternoon (from 
 Nature). 
 
 II Poute Rotto, on the 
 Tiber, Rome. 
 
 Venice from the Dogana. 
 
 Hotel de Ville, Calais. 
 
 Goodrich Court and 
 Castle, on the Wye. 
 
 A Summer's Evening on 
 the Avon, at Evesham. 
 The Dogana, Venice. 
 
 1861 
 
 Mont St. Michel, Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 Dom Gasse, Wiirzburg 
 Fair Time. 
 
 Robin Hood's Bay, York- 
 shire Coast. 
 
 I looked down on boats 
 and barks ; on masts, sails, 
 flags ; on groups of busy 
 sailors working at the car- 
 goes of the vessels ; on 
 wide quays strewn with 
 bales, casks, merchandize of 
 many kinds; on great ships, 
 lying near at hand in stately 
 indolence ; on islands crowned 
 with gorgeous domes and 
 turrets, and where golden 
 crosses glittered in the light, 
 a-top of wondrous churches 
 springing from the sea, going 
 down upon the margin of the 
 green sea, rolling on before 
 the door and filling all the 
 streets I came upon a place of 
 such surpassing beauty and 
 such grandeur that all the rest 
 was poor and faded in com- 
 parison with its absorbing 
 loveliness. It was a great 
 Piazza, as I thought, anchored 
 like the rest in the deep 
 ocean. An Italian Dream, 
 by Charles Dickens. 
 
 The Rhine at St. Goar. 
 The Moselle at Coblenz. 
 Cochem, on the Moselle. 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 Street in Innsbruck. 
 Gravedonua Lake 
 
 Como. 
 Martigny. 
 The Church of St. 
 
 Michael, Ghent. 
 Distant View of Lincoln. 
 On the Inn, Innsbruck.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 155 
 
 On the Terrace at 
 
 Heidelberg. 
 Basle. 
 Looking towards the 
 
 Rialto, Venice. 
 
 1862 
 Summer 
 
 On the Tiber, Rome. 
 Water Mill at Lee, 
 
 North Devon. 
 Hastings. 
 The Culag Burn, Loch 
 
 Inver. 
 Castle of Katz, on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 Venice. 
 Beaugency, on the 
 
 Loire. 
 
 Mill near Antwerp. 
 On the Old Walls at 
 
 Bacharach. 
 Castel Grandolfo. 
 San Giorgio, Venice. 
 A Street in Evreux, 
 
 Normandy. 
 
 Place St. Pierre, Caen. 
 Hotel de Ville, Courtrai. 
 Rheinfels and Village 
 
 of St. Goar. 
 Highland Bothies 
 
 Entrance of Glen- 
 
 finlas. 
 Santa Maria della 
 
 Salute. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Fall of East Lynn, 
 
 Lynmouth. 
 The Grey Friars, 
 
 Coventry. 
 Campsie Glen. 
 Place a Tours. 
 Malvern Wells. 
 Port of Whitby. 
 Sidmouth. 
 
 On the Shore, Lyn- 
 mouth. 
 
 Near Loch Inver, 
 Sutherlandshire. 
 
 From Lam lash Road, 
 Arran. 
 
 Maison des Nantais, 
 Nantes. 
 
 Wimbledon Common. 
 
 Holy Loch, Argyllshire. 
 
 Cottage at Malvern. 
 
 The Torrs, Ilfracombe. 
 
 From Sandsend, Whitby. 
 
 Fall of Kirkaig, Suther- 
 landshire. 
 
 Glen Rosa, Arran. 
 
 The Castle Rock, Liuton. 
 
 The Torrs, Ilfracombe. 
 
 Glydock, South Wales. 
 
 1863 
 Summer 
 
 Midday at Haddon. 
 
 Cologne from the River. 
 
 Place St. Pharailde, 
 Ghent 
 
 Sunset at Gotha. 
 
 The Ca' d' Oro, Venice. 
 
 The Campagna, with 
 Porta San Giovanni, 
 Rome. 
 
 Falls of the Rhine, 
 Schaffhausen. 
 
 From theChiaja, Naples. 
 
 Market - Place, Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 Rheinstein and Ass- 
 mannshausen. 
 
 At Antwerp. 
 
 Heidelberg. 
 
 Remains of the Palace 
 of the Dukes of Bur- 
 gundy, Malines. 
 
 Arona, Lake Maggiore. 
 
 Canal Reale. 
 
 Vico, Bay of Naples. 
 
 Riva dei Schiavoni. 
 
 Winter. 
 
 St. Nicolas's Priory, 
 
 Great Yarmouth. 
 Canal Scene, Rotterdam. 
 Salmon Trap on the 
 
 East Lynn,Lynmouth. 
 A Study near M issenden. 
 Venice. 
 
 Sidmouth, South Devon. 
 Lynmouth Bridge,North 
 
 Devon. 
 
 Rue St. Honore, Paris. 
 Bridge of Sighs, Venice. 
 Uncle Tom's Cabin, 
 
 Folkestone Beach. 
 
 1864 
 
 Summer 
 
 Lago 
 
 Morning on 
 Maggiore. 
 
 Market-Place at Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 The Moselle Bridge at 
 Coblentz. 
 
 Beilstein, on the 
 Moselle. 
 
 Leaning Towers at 
 Bologna. 
 
 Grand Canal, Venice. 
 
 Water Gate, Norwich. 
 
 Old Houses on Pride 
 Hill, Shrewsbury. 
 
 Distant View of Namur. 
 
 Stolzenfels and Lahu- 
 stein, on the Rhine. 
 
 The Alien Priory, near 
 Eastbourne. 
 
 Palazzo Barbarigo, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 Cologne. 
 
 At Unterseen, Switzer- 
 land. 
 
 Old Gate at Rotterdam. 
 
 The Rialto, Venice.
 
 156 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Market Morning at 
 Coburg. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Three Sketches, Abroad. 
 
 Old Priory at Great 
 Yarmouth. 
 
 Interior of Richmond 
 Church, Yorkshire, 
 before its Restoration. 
 
 Two Studies. 
 
 Two Sketches in the 
 Botanic Gardens, 
 Regent's Park. 
 
 Three Sketches. 
 
 Neue Minister, Wiirz- 
 burg. 
 
 Four Scraps. 
 
 Three Scotch Views. 
 
 Souvenirs of Rosenau, 
 Birthplace of H.R.H. 
 the late Prince Con- 
 sort. 
 
 1865 
 
 Summer 
 
 Beilstein,on the Moselle. 
 
 Chateau de Montele- 
 mart, Rhone. 
 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 Venice. 
 
 Fishing-Boats at Naples 
 Early Morning. 
 
 The Citadel, Wiirzburg, 
 Bavaria. 
 
 Castle and Village of 
 Lahneck. 
 
 Inveraray with the Hill 
 of Duniquoich. 
 
 Bacharach,onthe Rhine. 
 
 Garden Scene at Ver- 
 sailles. 
 
 Looking towards Sutton 
 Valence. 
 
 The Judengasse, Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 Water Mill at Lee, near 
 Jlfracombe. 
 
 Lochgoilhead, Argyll- 
 shire. 
 
 Old House at Tewkes- 
 bury. 
 
 Pride Hill, Shrewsbury. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Two Sketches of Venice. 
 
 Isola Bella from Stresa. 
 
 Three Marine Studies. 
 
 A Mill and other 
 Objects. 
 
 Two Views on the Rhine. 
 
 Bolton Abbey and Cot- 
 tage Scene. 
 
 Three Scotch Studies. 
 
 Three Sketches on Lago 
 Maggiore. 
 
 Four Studies. 
 
 1866 
 
 Summer 
 
 Entrance to the Gorge 
 of Gondo, Simplon. 
 
 Lyme Regis, Dorset. 
 
 Berncastel, on the 
 Moselle Evening. 
 
 Venice, looking up the 
 Grand Canal. 
 
 Lago di Como. 
 
 Bellagio, Lago di Como. 
 
 Boppart, on the Rhine. 
 
 Richmond Hill from 
 Twickenham Sun- 
 rise. 
 
 Arona, on the Lago 
 
 Maggiore. 
 
 i Canale della Posta, 
 Venice. 
 
 On the Piazza delle Erbe, 
 
 Verona. 
 
 ' On the Market-Place, 
 Hanover. 
 
 Entrance to Sutton Pool, 
 
 Plymouth. 
 
 Fishing-Boat off Lowes- 
 toft. 
 Maison des Francs Bat- 
 
 eliers, Ghent. 
 
 Winter 
 
 1, Plymouth; 2, Amster- 
 dam 
 
 Head of Loch Fyne. 
 Study at Glydock, South 
 
 Wales. 
 1, Brighton ; 2, Study of 
 
 Rocks ; 3, Dover. 
 1, A River Scene ; 2, 
 
 Mont Dragon, on the 
 
 Rhone. 
 1, A Water Mill ; 2, 
 
 Rocky Landscape. 
 St. Winifred's Well, 
 
 Holywell, Flintshire. 
 Three Sketches. 
 1, Dieppe ; 2, Sea Piece ; 
 
 3, A Mill. 
 Four Studies. 
 
 1867 
 
 Summer 
 
 Bridge Street, Chester 
 Morning. 
 
 Werner's Chapel, Bach- 
 arach. 
 
 Menaggio, Lago di 
 Como. 
 
 TheCourtyard at Heidel- 
 berg. 
 
 Castle and Town of Beau- 
 caire, on the Rhone. 
 
 Bringing in Fish, Hon- 
 fleur. 
 
 By the Venetian Column, 
 Piazza, delle Erbe, 
 Verona. 
 
 The Boompjes, Rotter- 
 dam.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 157 
 
 Street in Rouen. 
 
 Lac du Petit Trianon, 
 Versailles. 
 
 Namur Junction of the 
 Sombre and Meuse. 
 
 A Water Mill. 
 
 On the Quay, Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 Entering Port. 
 
 A Storm at the 
 Mumbles. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Recollections of the 
 
 Rhine 
 Mount Edgcumbe and 
 
 Sandgate. 
 Two Views of the Isle of 
 
 Wight. 
 
 Three Marine Studies. 
 Three Sketches of Rhine 
 
 Scenery. 
 
 Landscape Study. 
 Four Sketches. 
 Mountain Scenery. 
 Water Mill and Sea 
 
 Piece. 
 Old Bridge Morning 
 
 Effect. 
 
 Two Landscape Studies. 
 Stormy Weather. 
 
 1868 
 
 Summer 
 
 at 
 
 Market - Place 
 
 Coburg. 
 The Piazza delle Erbe, 
 
 Verona. 
 On the Riva dei Schia- 
 
 voni, Venice. 
 Town and Fortifications 
 
 of Luxembourg. 
 St. Pierre, Caen. 
 Rheinfels and St. Goar 
 
 Summer Rain. 
 Bacharach. 
 
 Mont Richard, on the 
 Cher. 
 
 Tintern from the Village. 
 
 Canale della Posta, 
 Venice. 
 
 Dutch Boat entering 
 Port. 
 
 Granville, Coast of Nor- 
 mandy Waiting for 
 the Tide. 
 
 Old Mill in Surrey. 
 
 Orca, Lago Lugano. 
 
 Grand Canal, Venice. 
 
 Stormy Weather off 
 Lowestoft. 
 
 Winter. 
 
 St. Cloud, from Sevres. 
 Saltwood and Goodrich 
 
 Castles. 
 Remembrances of the 
 
 Rhine. 
 
 Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran. 
 Three Studies, Various. 
 Mountain Scenery. 
 Study at Haddon. 
 Mill Scene and View of 
 
 Swanage. 
 
 Four Marine Studies. 
 Coast of Devonshire. 
 Lake Scene Sunset. 
 The Cliffs, Freshwater. 
 
 1869 
 Summer 
 
 Coast Scene. 
 
 Flint Castle Sunrise. 
 
 Isola Bella, Lago Mag- 
 
 giore. 
 Church of St. James, 
 
 Antwerp. 
 
 Richmond, Yorkshire. 
 Piazza Corpus Domini, 
 
 Turin. 
 Street in Frankfort. 
 
 Entrance to the Villa 
 Carlotta, Cadenabbia. 
 The Rialto. 
 
 Namur, on the Sombre. 
 Greenwich. 
 
 Beilstein,onthe Moselle. 
 Sunrise near Rome. 
 
 Night wanes ; the vapours 
 round the mountain curl'd 
 
 Melt into morn, and light 
 awakes the world. 
 
 Temple of Venus and 
 Rome. 
 
 Santa Salute, Venice. 
 
 Port of Fecamp, Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Study of Trees. 
 Reigate. 
 Two Studies. 
 Twickenham and Eton. 
 Three Studies of Rhine 
 
 Scenery. 
 Two Sea Pieces. 
 Three Coast Studies. 
 Sunset at Sea. 
 Fishing-Boat returning 
 
 at Sunrise. 
 Sketches of Chester. 
 
 1870 
 
 Summer 
 
 Street in Old Trarbach 
 Dinant, on the Meuse. 
 Canale della Posta, 
 
 Venice. 
 Fishing-Boats at Anchor 
 
 in the Harbour of 
 
 Granville. 
 Susa, North Italy. 
 Lausanne, Lake of 
 
 Geneva. 
 Place de Calende, 
 
 Rouen.
 
 158 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 The Market-Place, 
 
 Coburg. 
 The Rialto, Venice 
 
 Early Morning. 
 Place du Marche, Tours. 
 Venice. 
 
 The Chiaja, Naples. 
 The Piazzetta, Venice. 
 Cologne. 
 Boats running into 
 
 Dieppe. 
 Marksburg, from 
 
 Rhense,on the Rhine. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Landscape with Mill. 
 
 Raglan Castle. 
 
 Old Manor-House. 
 
 I, Torquay ; 2, Lake of 
 Como. 
 
 Bacharach am Rhein. 
 
 Storm and Calm. 
 
 Study of Sea. 
 
 I, Peterborough ; 2, On 
 the Tamar ; 3, South- 
 ampton. 
 
 1, A Coast Scene ; 2, 
 Granville ; 3, Calais. 
 
 I, Usk ; 2, Crickhowell. 
 
 1871 
 Summer 
 
 La Dogana, Venice. 
 
 St. Michel, Foot of Mont 
 Ceuis. 
 
 French Fishing-Boats 
 leaving St. Valery. 
 
 Canal Scene, Rotterdam. 
 
 Rue Flamande, Bruges. 
 
 Above the Falls at 
 Schaffhausen. 
 
 Hastings Early Morn- 
 ing. 
 
 The Old Town of Trar- 
 bach, on the Moselle. 
 
 Naples from Castella- 
 
 mare. 
 King Edward Tavern, 
 
 Chester. 
 The Vrijdags Markt, 
 
 Ghent. 
 Posta della Lettere, 
 
 Venice. 
 The Marche au Lion, 
 
 Lisieux, Normandy. 
 Mont Richard, on the 
 
 Cher Summer After- 
 noon. 
 Cochem, on the Moselle. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Rain and Sunshine. 
 
 Frankfort. 
 
 Trarbach, on the 
 Moselle. 
 
 Water Mill at Lee, 
 North Devon. 
 
 Tinteru Abbey. 
 
 The Thames near Graves- 
 end. 
 
 Bolton Abbey. 
 
 Bodiham Castle, Kent. 
 
 Bacharach am Rhein. 
 
 1872 
 
 Summer 
 
 Street in Limburg, on 
 the Lahn. 
 
 On the Rokin, Amster- 
 dam 
 
 Fair Time on the Grande 
 Place, Bruges. 
 
 At Quillebo3uf, on the 
 Seine Sunrise. 
 
 The Four Towers, etc., 
 Ems. 
 
 Tete de Flaudres, op- 
 posite Antwerp. 
 
 Canale del Fonteco, 
 Venice. 
 
 Scarborough from the 
 Sands Misty Morn- 
 ing. 
 
 Cathedral, etc. , Lim- 
 burg, on the Lahn 
 Summer Afternoon. 
 
 Old Buildings at Bop- 
 part, on the Rhine. 
 
 Looking into the 
 Market-Place at 
 Coburg. 
 
 On the Kool Quai, 
 Antwerp. 
 
 The Judengasse, Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 Winter 
 
 A Windmill. 
 
 Sunrise and Beach 
 Scene. 
 
 Torquay. 
 
 Rouen and Caen. 
 
 Relics at Brighton. 
 
 A Water Mill 
 
 Landing Fish on Yar- 
 mouth Beach. 
 
 Landscape Studies. 
 
 Cromer and Dunstan- 
 borough. 
 
 Going to Market. 
 
 Sunrise and Sunset. 
 
 Caistor Castle, near 
 Yarmouth. 
 
 1873 
 Summer 
 
 The Ponte Rotto and 
 Temple of Vesta, 
 Rome. 
 
 Old Harbour at Folke- 
 stone. 
 
 A Street in Limburg, 
 on the Lahn. 
 
 Shoreham, Sussex. 
 
 Botzen, in the Tyrol.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 159 
 
 The Tour de 1'Horloge, 
 Evreux. 
 
 Old Gateway at Rotter- 
 dam. 
 
 Lugaiio from the Port. 
 
 Bacharach am Rhein. 
 
 The Old Telegraph and 
 Tower, etc., Calais. 
 
 Conisborough Castle, 
 near Doncaster. 
 
 The Ca' d' Oro, on the 
 Grand Canal, Venice. 
 
 Castel d' Ovo, Naples. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Fisherman's Hut Early 
 Morning. 
 
 Gypsy Tents. 
 
 Sunset on the Moun- 
 tains. 
 
 Near Sorrento, Naples. 
 
 A Roadside Inn and 
 Water Mill. 
 
 Two Studies of Sea. 
 
 On the Lago Maggiore. 
 
 Yarmouth Jetty and 
 New Brighton. 
 
 A Cottage near Malvern. 
 
 Gathering Rushes. 
 
 Two Woodland Studies. 
 
 On the Moselle. 
 
 1874 
 Summer 
 
 Monmouth Castle. 
 
 Fishing Boats leaving 
 Honfleur Early 
 Morning. 
 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 Venice. 
 
 Landing Fish at East- 
 bourne. 
 
 Old HousesatBerncastel, 
 on the Moselle. 
 
 Abbeville Cathedral from 
 the Market-Place. 
 
 Berwick -on -the -Tweed 
 
 from the Castle. 
 Bellagio, Lago di Como. 
 Ehrenbreitstein from 
 
 the Moselle Bridge. 
 Lisieux looking towards 
 
 the Transept of St. 
 
 Pierre. 
 Verona with the Maffei 
 
 Tower. 
 The "Golden Hirsch " 
 
 Apotheke, Giessen. 
 
 Winter 
 
 On the East Lynn, 
 Devonshire. 
 
 Coast Scene. 
 
 Barnard Castle, York- 
 shire. 
 
 The Lac de Gaube, 
 Pyrenees. 
 
 A Water Mill Early 
 Morning. 
 
 Cave near Genoa. 
 
 Bothy, Loch Goyle. 
 
 Mill "on the Scheldt- 
 Moonlight. 
 
 Lauterbrunnen and 
 Staubbach. 
 
 Sunset A Composition. 
 
 1875 
 Summer 
 
 Rotterdam. 
 
 Cologne Autumn 
 
 Evening. 
 
 The Grand Canal Venice. 
 Le Chevet de St. Pierre, 
 
 Caen. 
 The Castle and Town of 
 
 Salzburg. 
 Summer Evening on the 
 
 Wye at Goodrich 
 
 Castle. 
 Tivoli with the Cascade 
 
 and Temple of the 
 
 Sybil. 
 The Holz-Markt, 
 
 Halberstadt. 
 Albert Diirer's House at 
 
 Nuremberg. 
 Isola Bella from Stresa, 
 
 Lago Maggiore. 
 Rheinsteiu. 
 Waiting for Fish at St. 
 
 Valery-en-Caux Sun- 
 rise. 
 Coarse Weather at 
 
 Gorleston Harbour. 
 
 Winter 
 
 On the Rhine. 
 A Water Mill. 
 The Source of the 
 
 Thames. 
 Clearing the Wreck 
 
 Sunset. 
 
 At Bingen, on the Rhine. 
 Sheep in a Lane. 
 Sunset after a Storm. 
 Wind and Rain. 
 French Fishing-Boats. 
 A Waterfall. 
 Dover and Brighton in 
 
 Former Days. 
 At Killarney The Weir 
 
 Bridge and the Castle 
 
 Crag. 
 
 Raglan Castle. 
 Study of Sea. 
 A Cottage. 
 
 1876 
 Summer 
 
 Unter Taschenmacher 
 
 and Rath - Haus, 
 
 Cologne. 
 Entrance to Calais 
 
 Harbour Rough 
 
 Weather.
 
 160 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Canale della Posta, 
 
 Venice. 
 On the Pier at Treport, 
 
 Normandy Early 
 
 Morning-. 
 The Last Glow from the 
 
 Terrace, Heidelberg. 
 An August Morning at 
 
 Ems. 
 
 Weilburg, on the Lahn. 
 The Stadthaus and Markt 
 
 Plate, Hanover. 
 Nuremberg from a 
 
 Bridge near theTrodel 
 
 Markt. 
 Fountain at Marburg, 
 
 Hesse-Cassel. 
 Grand Canal, Venice, 
 
 looking towards the 
 
 Lido Early Morning. 
 A Rotterdam Canal 
 
 Scene. 
 Luxembourg Sunset. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Shanklin Chine, Isle of 
 Wight. 
 
 Near Pierrefitte (Pyr- 
 enees), Cascade of 
 Nantborrant, Switzer- 
 land. 
 
 Cottage near Sidmouth. 
 
 Beilstein,on the Moselle. 
 
 Old Houses at Treves. 
 
 Two Views in South 
 Devon. 
 
 Landscape A Composi- 
 tion. 
 
 The Coastnear Sidmouth. 
 
 Study of Coast Scenery. 
 
 Cochem, on the Moselle. 
 
 An Irish Cabin. 
 
 Dunkeld. 
 
 Botzen, in the Tyrol. 
 
 A Street in Bruges 
 Morning. 
 
 A Venetian Canal. 
 
 1877 
 
 Summer 
 
 Marburg, Hesse-Cassel. 
 Fishing - Boats waiting 
 
 for the Tide, Port of 
 
 Havre Sunrise. 
 Entrance to the Old 
 
 Part of Arona, Lago 
 
 Maggiore. 
 
 The Peschiera, Genoa. 
 Castle and Town of 
 
 Runkel, on the Lahn. 
 A Venetian Canal. 
 Loading Oranges and 
 
 Lemons at Sorrento, 
 
 from the Marina. 
 The Mercato Ruava, 
 
 Florence. 
 Chancel of St. Sauveur, 
 
 Caen. 
 Gateway of St. Martin's 
 
 Abbey, Tours. 
 On the Dom-Platz at 
 
 Ratisbon. 
 Houfleur Calm, Early 
 
 Morning. 
 The Ponte Vecchio, 
 
 Florence. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Rheinfels and Wolfs- 
 berg, on the Moselle. 
 
 II Diavoletto and L' Ab- 
 boudanza, Florence. 
 
 A Swiss Valley. 
 
 Mountain Gorge near 
 Pierrefitte. 
 
 Two Studies of Sea. 
 
 Ulleswater and Sea 
 Coast. 
 
 Riva dei Schiavoni. 
 
 A Stormy Day in Scot- 
 land. 
 
 Matlock. 
 
 Mentone. 
 
 The Wye and Wharf. 
 
 A Country Lane. 
 A Calm Evening. 
 Fishing-Boats in a 
 
 Squall, 
 A Street Scene. 
 
 1878 
 Summer 
 
 Ruined Mill near Dolce 
 
 Acqua, Italy. 
 Fishing-Boats at Fe- 
 camp, Normandy - 
 
 Early Morning. 
 II Mercato Vecchio, 
 
 Florence. 
 Casa Cavallino, Grand 
 
 Canal, Venice. 
 The Old Bridge and 
 
 Tower at Nuremberg. 
 Sunrise on the Seine at 
 
 Rouen. 
 Ponte del Canonico, 
 
 Venice. 
 Entrance to the Old 
 
 Convent of Sau 
 
 Gregorio, Venice. 
 Castle of Stolzenfels, on 
 
 the Rhine. 
 
 Teatro Marcello, Rome. 
 Dieppe. 
 Market-Place at Botzen, 
 
 in the Tyrol. 
 Canale di Barrettaria, 
 
 Venice. 
 Place St. Phara'ilde, 
 
 Ghent. 
 In the Judengasse, 
 
 Frankfort. 
 
 Winter 
 
 On the Moselle. 
 Winchester from the 
 
 Meadows. 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 
 Venice. 
 Autumn on the Trent.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 161 
 
 Mussel Gathering at Lee, 
 
 North Devon. 
 Bellagio, on Lake Como, 
 
 and I sola Bella. 
 East Cowes ; and Dunoon, 
 
 on the Clyde. 
 Souvenirs of Loch Etive. 
 In the Gloaming. 
 A Devonshire Cottage. 
 A Street in Treves. 
 Old Gateway on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 River and Coast. 
 
 1879 
 Summer 
 
 Oil the Road to Rocca 
 Bruna Monaco in 
 the Distance. 
 
 Canale della Posta, 
 Venice. 
 
 Palazzo Cicogna, Venice. 
 
 Fishing-Boats off Tre- 
 port. 
 
 Town Hall and Market- 
 place, Padua Early 
 Morning. 
 
 At the Foot of the Lean- 
 ing Towers, Bologna. 
 
 Santa Lucia, Naples. 
 
 Tour de 1'Horloge, 
 Rouen. 
 
 Port of Granville, Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 On the Rhine. 
 
 Castellamare, on the 
 Quay. 
 
 San Pietro di Banchi, 
 Genoa. 
 
 1879-80 
 
 Winter 
 
 Sunrise and Sunset 
 
 Guisachan. 
 Dover ; and Sandgate. 
 
 A Street in Rouen. 
 
 Scarborough from Filey 
 Brigg. 
 
 Venice at Sunset. 
 
 On the Moselle. 
 
 Night coming on A 
 Study. 
 
 A Trout Stream. 
 
 A Belgian Market-Place. 
 
 Old Inn at Laugen- 
 schwalbach. 
 
 Distant View of Sher- 
 borne, Dorset. 
 
 Reigate from the Com- 
 mon. 
 
 1880 
 Summer 
 
 The Old Port of Dart- 
 mouth. 
 
 The Market-Place, 
 Giessen, on the Lalin. 
 
 Fishing-Boats in the 
 Port of Granville. 
 
 S. Barnabas, Venice. 
 
 Bologna, near the Piazza 
 S. Petronia. 
 
 Lake of Como looking 
 towards Menaggio. 
 
 A Bit of Antiquity at 
 Blois. 
 
 On the Ponte Vecchio, 
 Florence. 
 
 The Mists of Early 
 Morning at Quille- 
 boeuf, on the Seine. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Stolzenfels. 
 
 Carisbrooke Castle. 
 
 Distant View of the Alps 
 above Geneva. 
 
 On the Tiber, Rome. 
 
 The Grande Rue, Dun- 
 kirk. 
 
 Garden, on the Moselle. 
 
 The Last Gleam of Day. 
 
 Kirkstall Abbey, York- 
 shire Sunset. 
 
 Old Roman Houses. 
 
 II Ponte Rotto, Rome, 
 in 1841. 
 
 The Coast ofConnemara, 
 Ireland. 
 
 The Post Office, Venice. 
 
 Mount's Bay, Cornwall. - 
 
 1881 
 Summer 
 
 An Oriel in Haddon 
 
 Hall, Derbyshire. 
 Piazza dei Signori, 
 
 Verona. 
 Town and Castle of 
 
 Dolce Acqua near 
 
 Bordighera. 
 A Canal through the 
 
 Island of Murano. 
 Behind the Church of 
 
 the Frari, Venice. 
 The Tour de Charle- 
 magne, Rue de 
 
 1'Echelle, Tours. 
 On the Canal dell' Olio, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 In the Merceria, Venice. 
 St. Heliers, Jersey, from 
 
 Elizabeth Castle. 
 The Great Church of St. 
 
 Lawrence. 
 The Dom Strasse, Wurz- 
 
 burg, Bavaria. 
 A Country Lane. 
 Roman Column in the 
 
 Main Street of Siena. 
 Dinant, on the Meuse. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Study of Coast Scenery. 
 Grasmere, Cumberland. 
 Rue Flamande, Bruges. 
 
 21
 
 162 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 A Garden Study. 
 
 Mill at St. Ouen, on the 
 
 Seine. 
 Scarborough from the 
 
 Sands. 
 Windsor from the 
 
 Meadows. 
 Old Houses in Bridge 
 
 Street, Chester. 
 On the Rocks in the 
 
 Greta at Rokeby. 
 Town and Castle of 
 
 Blois, on the Loire. 
 The Town of Garden, on 
 
 the Moselle. 
 Shanklin Chine. 
 
 1882 
 
 Summer 
 
 A Spring Day at 
 Florence from San 
 Miniato. 
 
 Fossgate Street, York. 
 
 Landing Fish at St. 
 Valery-en-Caux, Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 Tour de Mauconseil, 
 Vienne (on the 
 Rhone). 
 
 Ponte S. Mose, Venice. 
 
 The Belfry at Bruges. 
 
 The Weighing House, 
 Amsterdam. 
 
 La Porta Romana, 
 Siena. 
 
 Near the Rialto, looking 
 towards the Palazzo 
 Foscari, Venice. 
 
 Piazza del Sopra Muro, 
 Perugia. 
 
 French Steamer enter- 
 ing Folkestone Har- 
 bour in November. 
 
 The Palazzo Moro, 
 Venice. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Easby Abbey, Rich- 
 mond, Yorkshire. 
 Declining Day. 
 
 The clouds that wrapt the 
 setting sun 
 
 When Autumn's softest gleams 
 are ending, 
 
 Where all bright hues to- 
 gether run 
 
 In sweet confusion blending. 
 
 The Fish Market, Folke- 
 stone. 
 
 Albert Diirer's House at 
 Nuremberg. 
 
 Waiting for the Boat. 
 
 Giessen, on the Lahn. 
 
 A Water Mill Early 
 Morning. 
 
 Two Sea Studies. 
 
 Distant View of Lyme 
 Regis, Dorset. 
 
 Caesar's Tower, War- 
 wick. 
 
 Dunkeld. 
 
 Old House at Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 1883 
 Summer 
 
 Casa Cavallo, Venice. 
 Castelnuovo from the 
 
 Old Port, Naples. 
 Canale della Posta, 
 
 Venice. 
 Carnarvon Castle 
 
 Early Morning. 
 Fishing Boats off 
 
 Dieppe. 
 Castle and Town ol 
 
 Heidelberg from the 
 
 Banks of the Neckar. 
 Porta St. Andrea, Genoa. 
 A Street in Bologna. 
 Canale Barrattaria, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 Greenwich Hospital. 
 A Street in Rouen. 
 The Market - Place, 
 Abbeville. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Two Sea Views. 
 
 Off the Yorkshire Coast 
 near Whitby. 
 
 St. Giorgio, Venice. 
 
 Windmill on the Trent. 
 
 Study of Sea. 
 
 Street in Treves. 
 
 Boppart, on the Rhine. 
 
 Bellagio, on the Lake of 
 Como. 
 
 Village of Rhense, on 
 the Rhine. 
 
 Bolton Abbey ; Eggle- 
 ston Abbey, York- 
 shire. 
 
 Water Mill. 
 
 1884 
 
 Summer 
 
 St. Peter's Mancroft 
 
 and Fish Market, 
 
 Norwich. 
 The Piazza delle Erbe at 
 
 Verona. 
 Entrance to the Port of 
 
 Marseilles. 
 From the Bridge of 
 
 St. Angelo, Venice. 
 Near the Mumbles after 
 
 a Storm. 
 Roman Columns at San 
 
 Lorenzo, Milan. 
 On the Market-Place at 
 
 Malines. 
 
 II Paradiso, Venice. 
 Folkestone Pier Fish- 
 ing-Boats going out. 
 Church of St. Sauveur, 
 
 Caen, Normandy. 
 St. Peter's Street, York.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 163 
 
 Winter 
 
 Old Bridge at Caesar's 
 
 Tower, Warwick 
 
 Castle. 
 The Castle of Rheinfels 
 
 from the North. 
 Waterfall Glen Etive. 
 Palazzo Barberigo, 
 
 Grand Canal, Venice. 
 Hastings Boat coming 
 
 Ashore in Rough 
 
 Weather. 
 The Devonshire Coast 
 
 Jlfracombe. 
 Filey Brigg Yorkshire 
 
 Coast. 
 
 Market-Place, Courtrai. 
 French Fishing-Boats in 
 
 Harbour Sunrise. 
 Old Houses at Berne. 
 Schooner making for 
 
 Port. 
 
 1885 
 Summer 
 
 Canal Barataria, Venice, 
 
 near the Post Office. 
 Hastings Boats off to 
 
 the Fishing Grounds. 
 The Drachenfels from 
 
 Rolandseck, on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 Looking up the Lake of 
 
 Geneva from Vevey. 
 Fortress of Passau, on 
 
 the Danube. 
 On the Quay near the 
 
 Fish Market, Folke- 
 stone Harbour. 
 Fondamento Barbarigo, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 The Rialto, Venice. 
 A Relic of Venetian 
 
 Architecture in 
 
 Padua. 
 
 Distant View of Kirk- 
 stall Abbey, York- 
 shire. 
 
 A Corner in Trarbach, 
 on the Moselle. 
 
 House of the Francs 
 Bateliers, Ghent. 
 
 Winter 
 
 After the Storm. 
 Before the Storm. 
 The Harbour, Torquay 
 
 Early Morning. 
 The San Salute Grand 
 
 Hotel, Venice. 
 On the Market-Place at 
 
 Malines. 
 A Sunny Spot in a 
 
 Garden. 
 
 Campsie Glen, Scotland. 
 Dover Entrance to the 
 
 Harbour . 
 Westminster Abbey 
 
 looking into Henry 
 
 VII. Chapel. 
 London from Holly 
 
 Lodge, Highgate. 
 Warwick from the 
 
 Meadows. 
 Ilfracombe from the 
 
 Beach near Lantern 
 
 Hill. 
 Hotel of the Golden 
 
 Chain, Langen- 
 
 schwalbach. 
 
 1886 
 Summer 
 
 Looking into the Place 
 
 des Victoires, Paris. 
 The Old Jetty, Great 
 
 Yarmouth. 
 Street in Verona, near 
 
 the Palazza delle Erbe. 
 Honfleur Fishing- Boats 
 
 entering the Harbour. 
 
 Oberlahnstein, on the 
 
 Rhine, Stolzenfels in 
 
 the Distance. 
 Palazzo Molino, Canale 
 
 de la Posta, Venice. 
 Naples from theChiaja 
 
 Early Morning. 
 Palaces on the Grand 
 
 Canal near the Rialto, 
 
 Venice. 
 Schloss Elz, near the 
 
 Moselle. 
 
 Gate-House, Rotterdam. 
 On the Quay at Castella- 
 
 mare. 
 From the Cathedral 
 
 Porch, Trent, in the 
 
 Tyrol. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Fondaco de Turchi, 
 
 Venice. 
 Canale de la Posta, 
 
 Venice. 
 Old Houses near the 
 
 Port, Dartmouth. 
 Castle and Town of 
 
 Angera from Arona, 
 
 Lago Maggiore. 
 Stonegate, York. 
 Hastings Fishing-Boat. 
 Entrance to the Harbour, 
 
 Dover. 
 Water Mill on the East 
 
 Lyn, Lynmouth. 
 Heidelberg from the 
 
 Terrace Sunset. 
 Mentone from the 
 
 Public Garden. 
 On the Market-Place, 
 
 Prague. 
 
 1887 
 Summer 
 
 The Rialto, Venice. 
 The Leaning Towers of 
 Bologna.
 
 164 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Canal at Ghent. 
 
 Castle and Town of 
 Cochem, on the 
 Moselle Autumn 
 Afternoon. 
 
 Castle and Town of 
 Lourdes in the Pyr- 
 enees. 
 
 Church of St. Pietro di 
 Banchi, Genoa. 
 
 Venice Canal. 
 
 Amain from the Shore 
 
 A Summer's Morning 1 . 
 
 On the Riva dei Schia- 
 voni, Venice. 
 
 Dolce Acqua, near 
 Bordighera. 
 
 Schmeider Gasse, 
 Hanover. 
 
 Canale dell' Olio, Venice. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Street in Bologna. 
 
 Market-Place, Ratisbon. 
 
 On the Lago Maggiore. 
 
 Ischl, Saxon Switzer- 
 land. 
 
 Marburg, Cassel. 
 
 From near the Cathedral, 
 Stonegate, York. 
 
 Lake of Geneva from 
 St. Martin. 
 
 Reinhardsbrunn (the 
 Seat of H.R.H. the 
 late Prince Consort). 
 
 Corfu from One Gun 
 Road. 
 
 Cauldron Snout, York- 
 shire, where four 
 Counties meet. 
 
 Venice. 
 
 St. Pierre, Caen, Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 Folkestone. 
 
 From the East Cliff- 
 Sunset. 
 
 1888 
 Summer 
 
 The Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 
 Venice. 
 A Summer Evening, 
 
 Sidmouth, Devonshire. 
 In the High Street, 
 
 Southampton. 
 The Market House, 
 
 Marburg, Hesse- 
 
 Cassel. 
 Palace of Donna Anna, 
 
 Naples Evening. 
 The Banks of the Rhine, 
 
 Bacharach. 
 
 The Main Street, Inns- 
 bruck, Tyrol. 
 On the Barattina Canal, 
 
 Venice. 
 Amsterdam. 
 The Market-Place, 
 
 Nuremberg. 
 Gateway at Evesham. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Venice Canal. 
 
 Dieppe from the Sea. 
 
 Falls of the Liffey. 
 
 Bar Gate, Southampton. 
 
 Torquay Early Morn- 
 ing, looking across the 
 Bay. 
 
 On the Great Square, 
 Coburg Market Day. 
 
 Isola Bella, Lago 
 Maggiore. 
 
 Fishing-Boats on the 
 Sands, Scheviningen. 
 
 Walhalla, on th e Danube. 
 
 Broad stairs Breezy 
 Day. 
 
 Late Evening Murano. 
 
 Granville, Normandy. 
 
 1889 
 Summer 
 
 Toll's Chapel, on the 
 
 Lake of Lucerne 
 
 Sunrise. 
 On the Grand Place, 
 
 Bologna. 
 From the Grindecca, 
 
 Venice. 
 Place de 1'Herberie, 
 
 Macon. 
 Fishing-Boats awaiting 
 
 the Tide, Honfleur. 
 Rouen A Street near 
 
 the River. 
 Near the Campanile, 
 
 Venice. 
 Treport from the Shore, 
 
 Normandy. 
 Entrance to the Grand 
 
 Canal, Venice. 
 Near the Market, 
 
 Ferrara. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Entrance to Glenfin- 
 las. 
 
 Boppart, on the Rhine. 
 
 Canal in Venice. 
 
 Old Bridge at Nurem- 
 berg. 
 
 Hastings Fishing-Boats 
 Early Morning. 
 
 Entrance Gate, Hurst- 
 monceaux. 
 
 Fishing - Boats in a 
 Storm. 
 
 Under the Cliffs, Sid- 
 mouth, Devon. 
 
 Beilstein,on the Moselle. 
 
 Old Houses at Frank- 
 fort, near the Cathe- 
 dral.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 165 
 
 1890 
 Summer 
 
 On the Rokin Canal, 
 
 Amsterdam. 
 Ehrenbreitstein and 
 
 Coblentz Sunrise. 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 
 Venice, near the Balbi 
 
 Palace. 
 " There is a glorious city 
 
 in the sea. " Rogers' s 
 
 Italy. 
 Fortress and Town of 
 
 Huy, on the Meuse 
 
 Early Morning. 
 Grand Uue,Sizieux, Nor- 
 mandy, with Church 
 
 of St. Pierre. 
 Jugen Strasse, Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 Venice Sunset. 
 In the Old Market, 
 
 Florence. 
 Tre'port,Normandy,from 
 
 the Pier, Chateau 
 
 d'Eu in the Distance. 
 Maryleport Street, 
 
 Bristol St. Peter's 
 
 Church. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Farmyard, Staffordshire. 
 On the River, near 
 
 Graveseud. 
 View of Schaffhausen. 
 St. Heliers, Jersey 
 
 Early Morning. 
 Distant View of Naples. 
 A Bit of Wimbledon. 
 Caistor Castle, Norfolk. 
 A Summer Afternoon, 
 
 near Lord Somers's 
 
 Park, Reigate. 
 Midnight Sun, North 
 
 Cape (from a Sketch 
 
 by the late Robert 
 
 Elweys, Esq.) 
 Dartmouth Castle. 
 Inner Courtyard, Weil- 
 
 burg-on-Lahn. 
 
 1891 
 Summer 
 
 Dieppe from the Sands. 
 
 Ancient Bridges of Rome 
 from the Ponte Rotto. 
 
 On the Riva dei Schia- 
 voni, Venice. 
 
 Tower of St. Rumbold, 
 Malines, from the 
 Market-Place. 
 
 Kool Kaei, Antwerp. 
 
 Distant View of Rouen 
 Early Morning. 
 
 On the Quai at Frank- 
 fort. 
 
 The Rhine at Cologne. 
 
 But thou exulting and 
 
 abounding River 
 Making their waves a blessing 
 
 as they flow. 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 Citadel and Town of 
 Namur, on the Meuse 
 Sunset. 
 
 Fishing-Boats in Rams- 
 gate Harbour. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Stolzenfels from the 
 Lahn. 
 
 Distant View of Wor- 
 cester. 
 
 Caesar's Tower, Warwick 
 Castle. 
 
 On the Inn, Passau. 
 
 The Grand Place, Bruges 
 Market Day. 
 
 Gorleston Pier, Norfolk. 
 
 Distant View of Tor- 
 quay. 
 
 Arona, on the Lago 
 
 Maggiore. 
 Two Sketches. 
 
 (1) St Michael's 
 Mount, Cornwall. 
 
 (2) St. Michael's 
 Mount, Normandy. 
 
 Bolton Abbey, York- 
 shire Evening. 
 
 1892 
 Summer 
 
 Part of Lucerne from 
 the Lake. 
 
 Belfry, etc., at Bruges. 
 
 Tower at Rudesheim, on 
 the Rhine. 
 
 On the Meuse, Dinant 
 Fair Time. 
 
 Fishing-Boats in Rams- 
 gate Harbour Sun- 
 set. 
 
 Venice from St. Giorgio. 
 
 Underneath day's azure eyes 
 Ocean's nursling Venice lies. 
 
 Bellagio, on Lake of 
 Como Morning. 
 
 Entrance to the Port, 
 Fecamp, Normandy. 
 
 Church of St. Lawrence 
 and Town Hall, Rot- 
 terdam. 
 
 Canal in Ghent, with 
 the House of the 
 Francs Bateliers. 
 
 Entrance to the Grand 
 Canal, Venice Early 
 Morning. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Distant View of Nor- 
 wich. 
 
 On the Seine at Quille- 
 boeuf Early Morning. 
 
 Vevey, on the Lake of 
 Geneva.
 
 166 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Barnard Castle. 
 Audernach, on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 Sea Piece. 
 
 On the Lake of Como. 
 The Castle, Lausanne. 
 Dutch Boats on the 
 
 Scheldt at Antwerp. 
 
 1893 
 
 Summer 
 
 Blois, on the Loire A 
 Summer Evening. 
 
 Canal at Malines. 
 
 Ancona from the Mole. 
 
 Naples from the Strada 
 di Posilipo. 
 
 The Harbour, Genoa. 
 
 Venice, on the Kiva dei 
 Schiavoni. 
 
 On the Adige, Verona. 
 
 Venice from Belli Arti. 
 
 A fairy City of the Heart 
 Rising like water columns 
 
 from the sea, 
 Of joy the sojourn, and of 
 
 wealth the mart. 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 Cochem, on the Moselle. 
 
 'Die Cathedral at Abbe- 
 ville. 
 
 The Old Bridge at 
 Avignon. 
 
 Winter 
 
 The Lake, Guisachan, 
 
 N.B. 
 Ruins of the Teatro 
 
 Marcellus, Rome. 
 Woodland Scenery. 
 Dolbadarn Castle, Llan- 
 
 beris. 
 
 Stormy Weather. 
 French Fishing - Boats, 
 
 Granville Harbour. 
 Home from the Fishing. 
 
 Beauchamp Chapel, 
 Warwick. 
 
 The Grand Canal, 
 Venice Early Morn- 
 ing. 
 
 1894 
 Summer 
 
 Chateau d'Amboise, on 
 
 the Loire, 
 llheinfels and St. Goar, 
 
 on the Rhine. 
 Fortress and Town of 
 
 Namur at the Junc- 
 tion of the Sambre and 
 
 Meuse. 
 Castle of Schonburg, on 
 
 the Rhine, from Ober- 
 
 wesel. 
 View in Rotterdam, 
 
 and Church of St. 
 
 Lawrence. 
 Isola Peschiera from 
 
 Baveno. 
 Riva dei Schiavoni from 
 
 the Piazzetta, Venice. 
 Eh renbreitstein. 
 Cross on the Fisch- 
 
 markt, Lucerne. 
 The Inner Harbour, 
 
 Ramsgate Early 
 
 Morning. 
 OutheOld Market-Place 
 
 Domo d' Ossola. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Palazzo Molino, Venice. 
 
 Ullswater. 
 
 Water Mill on the Seine. 
 
 Venice from the St. 
 
 Giorgio. 
 Glen Etive. 
 Canal in Ghent. 
 Coast near Jlfracombe. 
 A Fresh Breeze. 
 Near the Village of 
 
 Halton, Bucks. 
 
 1895 
 Summer 
 
 From the Foscari Palace, 
 
 Grand Canal, Venice 
 
 Sunset. 
 On the Beach at Hastings 
 
 Sunset. 
 Cathedral at Antwerp. 
 The Grand Bateliers, 
 
 Ghent Dutch Boats 
 
 clearing out with the 
 
 Tide. 
 Old Houses at Trarbach, 
 
 on the Moselle, since 
 
 destroyed by Fire. 
 Gravedonna, Head of 
 
 Lake Como. 
 Castle of Marksburg, on 
 
 the Rhine. 
 The Grand Canal, 
 
 Venice, from the 
 
 Rialto. 
 
 Mayence, on the Rhine. 
 Berncastel, on the 
 
 Moselle. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Weston Mill, near 
 Leamington. 
 
 Coast at Sidmouth, 
 Devon. 
 
 Bolt Head, looking 
 towards Salcombe. 
 
 Gateway, Battle Abbey. 
 
 Canal near the Frari, 
 Venice. 
 
 Naples Early Morn- 
 ing. 
 
 Vietri and Salerno from 
 the Amalfi Road. 
 
 1896 
 Summer 
 
 Eh renbreitstein, Distant 
 
 View of. 
 The Rialto, Venice.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 167 
 
 Saumur, on the Loire. 
 Lyons from the Junction 
 
 of the Saone and 
 
 Rhone. 
 View of Dieppe from 
 
 the Sea. 
 The Pfalz with Caub 
 
 and Gutenfels, on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 Tour de 1'Horloge, 
 
 Rouen. 
 The Old Weighing 
 
 House, Amsterdam. 
 Entrance to the Grand 
 
 Canal, Venice Sun- 
 set. 
 
 Winter 
 
 At Ilfracombe, North 
 
 Devon. 
 Castle and Town of Mont 
 
 Richard, on the Cher. 
 Sidmouth, South Devon. 
 The Serpentine, Hyde 
 
 Park. 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 
 Venice. 
 Robin Hood's Bay, 
 
 Yorkshire. 
 
 1897 
 Summer 
 
 Casa d" Oro, near the 
 Rialto, Venice. 
 
 The Moselle Quai, 
 Coblentz, with Ehreu- 
 hreitstein. 
 
 Cathedral of Beauvais, 
 from the Market- 
 place. 
 
 Entrance to the Grand 
 Canal, Venice. 
 
 White swan of cities, slum- 
 bering in thy nest, 
 
 So wonderfully built among 
 the reeds 
 
 Of the lagoon, that fences thee 
 
 and feeds, 
 White water-lily cradled and 
 
 caressed 
 By ocean's streams, and from 
 
 the silt and weeds 
 Lifting thy golden filaments 
 
 and seeds 
 Thy sun-illumined spires, thy 
 
 crown and crest ! 
 
 LONGFELLOW. 
 
 Rouen Early Morning. 
 Fishing - Boats off St. 
 
 Valery-en-Caux. 
 Entrance to the Harbour, 
 
 Weymouth. 
 Old Houses at Cochem, 
 
 on the Moselle. 
 Amongst the Rocks at 
 
 Marazion, Cornwall. 
 
 Winter 
 
 On the Galway Coast, 
 
 Ireland. 
 Fishing - Boats off the 
 
 Heve Lights. 
 Coast of Cornwall. 
 Torquay, looking across 
 
 the Bay. 
 The Abbey Gate, Great 
 
 Malvern. 
 Street in Rouen. 
 
 1898 
 Summer 
 
 Fortress and Town of 
 Dinant, on the Meuse. 
 
 A Summer Day on the 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 Venice. 
 
 Palaces near the En- 
 trance of the Grand 
 Canal, Venice. 
 
 Entrance to the Port of 
 Havre. 
 
 Old Houses by the River 
 at Maliues. 
 
 Old Tower on the Quai, 
 Frankfort. 
 
 French Fishing-Boats off 
 
 Dieppe. 
 The Old Walls and 
 
 Towers, Oberwesel, 
 
 Rhine Market Day. 
 Portsmouth from the 
 
 Sea. 
 Summer Evening Beil- 
 
 stein. on the Moselle. 
 
 Winter 
 
 On the Tiber, near Ponte 
 Rotto, Rome. 
 
 Campo St. Augelo, 
 Venice. 
 
 Distant View o.f Men- 
 tone. 
 
 Fishing-Boats entering 
 Dieppe Harbour. 
 
 Schneider Gasse, 
 Hanover. 
 
 Chapelle St. Jean, 
 Orleans. 
 
 On the Lago Maggiore. 
 
 1899 
 
 Summer 
 
 View of the Town and 
 
 Lake of Lugano. 
 Fishing-Boats in a Calm 
 
 at the Mouth of the 
 
 Seine. 
 Distant View of Namur, 
 
 on the Meuse. 
 Ehrenbreitstein from 
 
 the Moselle Bridge. 
 Old Houses, Bacharach, 
 
 on the Rhine. 
 Staeu Street, Bruges. 
 Notre Dame de Paris, 
 
 from Bercy. 
 Fishing - Boats off St. 
 
 Valery-en-Caux. 
 Vico, Bay of Naples. 
 Tragetto St. Gregorio, 
 
 Venice.
 
 168 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Winter 
 
 Street in Abbeville. 
 Place in Ferrara. 
 Porta San Andrea, 
 
 Genoa. 
 
 In a Reigate Lane. 
 View from Tete Noir, 
 
 Switzerland. 
 Fishing - Boats at the 
 
 Mouth of the Seine. 
 
 1900 
 Summer 
 
 The Harbour, Bellagio, 
 
 looking up Lake Como. 
 Durham Cathedral, from 
 
 the opposite Bank of 
 
 the Wear. 
 Dutch Boats running 
 
 into Osteud Stormy 
 
 Weather. 
 Anderuach, on the Rhine 
 
 Early Morning. 
 Corner of Bacharach, 
 
 near the Walls, on 
 
 the Rhine. 
 
 Piazza de Frutti, Padua. 
 Alice Blanche and Lake 
 
 Combal, from Col de 
 
 la Seigne,Switzerland. 
 Rue de la Boucherie, 
 
 Calais, with the Old 
 
 Semaphore Tower. 
 Fishing - Boats leaving 
 
 Havre. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Rue de 1'Herberie, 
 
 Macon. 
 St. Goar, looking across 
 
 to Goarhausen. 
 Canale de la Posta, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 Trarbach,on the Moselle. 
 Lucerne from the Lake. 
 
 Cathedral, Courtrai, 
 
 Belgium. 
 Easby Abbey /Yorkshire. 
 
 1901 
 Summer 
 
 Namur, on the Meuse. 
 
 Mont Richard, on the 
 Cher, Cher et Loir, 
 France. 
 
 Market-Place, Lille. 
 
 Tintern Abbey (West 
 Window). 
 
 Stirling Castle. 
 
 Fishing-Boats at Tre- 
 port, Normandy. 
 
 Wyn Haven, Rotter- 
 dam. 
 
 Venice from the Dogana. 
 
 Dymchurch, near Hythe. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Entrance to Leicester 
 Hospital, Warwick. 
 
 Street in Trent near 
 the Cathedral. 
 
 A Quiet Pool, Offchurch. 
 
 Dutch Boats Rough 
 Water. 
 
 Canale della Posta, 
 Venice. 
 
 On the Beach, Lowes- 
 toft. 
 
 1902 
 Summer 
 
 On the Market-Place, 
 
 Leipsic. 
 On the Canal della 
 
 Posta, Venice. 
 C'ochem, on the Moselle. 
 On the Adige, Verona. 
 The Rialto, Venice, from 
 
 the North. 
 Beaugency,on the Loire. 
 
 Castel Lettere, near 
 
 Castellamare. 
 French Fishing-Boats off 
 
 Fecamp, Normandy. 
 Interior of the Port of 
 
 Havre. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Church of St. Sauveur, 
 Caen, Normandy. 
 
 Hastings Fishing- 
 Boats returning. 
 
 Old Timber Houses, 
 Lisieux, Normandy. 
 
 At the Back of the 
 Campanile, Venice. 
 
 Northgate Street, a Bit 
 of Old Chester. 
 
 Distant View of Inver- 
 aray Rainy Weather. 
 
 Cottage near Malvern. 
 
 1903 
 Summer 
 
 Old Houses, dated 1605 
 and 1617, at Traben, 
 Moselle. 
 
 Villa d' Este and Villa 
 of Macona, Tivoli. 
 
 The Castle of Heidel- 
 berg from above the 
 Bridge. 
 
 Old Houses in Water- 
 gate Street, Chester. 
 
 Distant View of Good- 
 rich Court and Castle, 
 on the Wye. 
 
 Lake of Como from Bel- 
 lagio Sunrise. 
 
 Fishing-Boats entering 
 the Harbour, Fecamp. 
 
 Rustic Bridge over the 
 East Lyn. 
 
 Ruins of Marienburg, 
 with the Winding 
 Moselle.
 
 LIST OF PAINTINGS 
 
 169 
 
 Winter 
 
 Beauchamp Chapel, 
 Warwick. 
 
 Home from Fishing. 
 
 The Avon, Salisbury. 
 
 Ruins of the Teatro 
 Marcellus, Rome. 
 
 Woodland Scenery. 
 
 Dolbadaru Castle, Llan- 
 beris. 
 
 Stormy Weather. 
 
 French Fishing-Boats, 
 Grauville Harbour. 
 
 The Grand Canal, 
 Venice Early Morn- 
 ing. 
 
 1904 
 Summer 
 
 Castle and Town of 
 
 Richmond, Yorkshire, 
 
 from Clink Bank. 
 Interior of the Port, 
 
 Marseilles. 
 Mont Blanc, Dome du 
 
 Goute from Cha- 
 
 mouny. 
 St Valery - en - Caux, 
 
 Normandy Entrance 
 
 to the Harbour. 
 Piazza delle Erbe, 
 
 Verona. 
 Dutch Boats at the 
 
 Quai, Antwerp. 
 Campanile in the Campo 
 
 St. Polo, Venice. 
 The Rhine at Ehren- 
 
 breitstein Early 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Landing Fish at Lowes- 
 toft. 
 Distant View of Dieppe 
 
 from the Sea. 
 
 Winter 
 
 In the Gloaming. 
 Melrose Abbey 
 
 Sketched from 
 Nature, 1843. 
 
 Distant View of Bam- 
 boro' Castle Sketched 
 from Nature, 1843. 
 
 A Storm on the York- 
 shire Coast. 
 
 Bridge of Sighs from the 
 Cauale della Posta, 
 Venice. 
 
 Sunset after a Storm. 
 
 Hastings Fishing-Boats. 
 
 1905 
 Summer 
 
 Fishing-Boats off the 
 Coast of Normandy, 
 near Grauville. 
 
 Bolton Abbey, York- 
 shire. 
 
 Hauling up a Fishing- 
 Boat, Hastings. 
 
 The Mersey from Birken- 
 head Stormy Sun- 
 set. 
 
 Fishing Quarter, Old 
 Hastings Sunrise. 
 
 Ruins of Llauthony 
 Abbey Stormy 
 Weather. 
 
 From a Sketch at Pere 
 la Chase. 
 
 Water Mill, Lee, near 
 Ilfracombe. 
 
 Mercato Vecchio, 
 Florence (since de- 
 molished). 
 
 Bamboro' Castle, North- 
 umberland. 
 
 Maison des Francs 
 Bateliers, Ghent. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Sunset Study. 
 Landscape Study. 
 
 Beech Avenue,Inveraray. 
 
 Edinburgh from Salis- 
 bury Crags Painted 
 from Nature, 1843. 
 
 Durham Painted from 
 Nature, 1843. 
 
 Trarbach from Trabeu, 
 on the Moselle. 
 Painted from Nature, 
 1844. 
 
 Street in Innsbruck. 
 
 1906 
 Summer 
 
 On the Beach, Lyn- 
 mouth, N. Devon. 
 
 Grey Friars Hospital, 
 Coventry. 
 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 Venice. 
 
 Bologna, at the Foot of 
 the Leaning Towers. 
 
 DistantVie w of I n veraray 
 Castle. 
 
 Distant View of Win- 
 chester. 
 
 French Fishing-Boats 
 in Harbour Low 
 Water. 
 
 Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran. 
 
 Winter 
 Rialto Foscari Palace, 
 
 Venice. 
 
 Culag Burn, Lochinver. 
 Street in Tours, Loire. 
 In the Grounds of 
 
 Madeley Manor, 
 
 Staffordshire. 
 Richmond, Yorkshire. 
 Abbey Church, Great 
 
 Malvern. 
 View of Worcester from 
 
 the River. 
 
 The Coast, Ilfracombe. 
 Canal, Rotterdam. 
 
 22
 
 170 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 1907 
 Summer 
 
 Via di Porta Borsari, 
 
 Verona. 
 
 San Salute, Venice. 
 Street Corner in Trar- 
 
 bach, 1844. 
 Market-Place, Ratisbon, 
 
 1853. 
 
 St. Mary's Church, Rich- 
 mond, before its 
 
 Restoration. 
 Water Mill on the East 
 
 Lyn from Below. 
 Water Mill on the East 
 
 Lyn from Above. 
 Cathedral at Antwerp, 
 
 1844. 
 
 Street inTrarbach, 1844. 
 On the Grand Canal, 
 
 Venice. 
 Distant View of Aber- 
 
 gavenny. 
 
 Winter 
 
 Contarini Palace, Grand 
 
 Canal, Venice. 
 Rialto, Venice. 
 Dover White Cliffs of 
 
 Old England, 1845. 
 
 Richmond, Yorks. , from 
 River Swale, 1843. 
 
 Rome from the Palatine 
 Hill, 1848. 
 
 Old Houses at Chester, 
 1902. 
 
 Tragetto, St. Gregorio, 
 Venice, 1880. 
 
 St. Sauveur, Caen, Nor- 
 mandy, 1902. 
 
 Distant View of Durham, 
 1843. 
 
 Old Houses near Wor- 
 cester, 1848. 
 
 Hereford, 1848. 
 
 Inveraray, Border of the 
 Lake, 1849. 
 
 Florence, from St. 
 Miniato, 1877. 
 
 1908 
 Summer 
 
 Scarborough, 1842. 
 All Hallows, Worcester, 
 
 1848. 
 
 Verona, 1880. 
 Abbey Church, Great 
 
 Malvern, 1848. 
 Near Crickhowell, 1848. 
 
 Cochem, on the Moselle, 
 
 1844. 
 
 Malvern Wells, 1848. 
 Richmond, 1853. 
 Marburg Buildings 
 
 dated 1683-1871. 
 Scarborough, 1842. 
 Cottage at Great 
 
 Malvern, 1902. 
 Old Hall, Gainsborough, 
 
 1853. 
 
 Rotterdam, 1845. 
 Llanthony Abbey, 1848. 
 Palace Pruili, Venice, 
 
 1880. 
 
 Little Malveru, 1848. 
 San Salute, Venice, 
 
 1882. 
 Richmond, Yorkshire, 
 
 1858. 
 
 NearHuddersfield, 1862. 
 Worcester, 1848. 
 
 Winter 
 Ben Garve, Loch Assyut, 
 
 1861. 
 
 Scarborough, 1842. 
 Bridge of Ross, 1848. 
 St. Nicholas, Ghent, 
 
 1844. 
 
 Whitby, Yorks., 1851. 
 Venice, 1840.
 
 OIL PAINTINGS EXHIBITED AT THE 
 ROYAL ACADEMY 
 
 1850 
 
 Old Bridge at Nurem- 
 berg. 
 
 Fecamp iu Normandy 
 Fishing-Boats enter- 
 ing the Harbour 
 ( Water-Colour). 
 
 1851 
 
 Canal Scene at Ghent 
 Church of St. Nicholas. 
 
 Broelon Toren, on the 
 Lys at Courtrai. 
 
 1852 
 
 Porte Guillaume, 
 
 Chartres. 
 Lucerne. 
 
 1853 
 
 Mont Richard, on the 
 
 Cher, France. 
 Part of the Old Walls at 
 
 Bacharach, on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 
 1854 
 
 The Wartburg, the 
 Place of Luther's Cap- 
 tivity in 1521. 
 
 Riva dei Schiavoni, 
 Venice (Water- 
 Colour). 
 
 Porta della Carta, 
 Venice. 
 
 1855 
 
 Near the Cathedral, 
 
 Frankfort. 
 Bridge Street, Chester. 
 
 1856 
 Rotterdam. 
 
 1857 
 
 The Piazza at Padua 
 (Water-Colour). 
 
 I860 
 The Piazza at Padua. 
 
 1862 
 
 Place at Ghent, with the 
 Birthplace of Charles 
 V. 
 
 1864 
 Derby Hall, Chester. 
 
 1866 
 St. Mary's Priory, Mon- 
 
 mouth. 
 
 Lympue Castle, Kent. 
 171 
 
 1867 
 
 Ford's Hospital, 
 Coventry. 
 
 1869 
 
 Near the Market House, 
 Ross, Herefordshire. 
 
 1870 
 Market-Placeat Leipzig. 
 
 1872 
 
 A Bit of Antiquity, 
 Chester. 
 
 1874 
 
 Street in Frankfort. 
 The Close at Salisbury, 
 while under Repair. 
 
 1875 
 
 Entrance to the Close at 
 
 Evesham. 
 A Street in Hanover. 
 
 1876 
 
 Market-Place at Frank- 
 fort, looking towards 
 the Cathedral.
 
 OIL PAINTINGS EXHIBITED AT THE 
 BRITISH INSTITUTION 
 
 1848 
 
 Canal Scene at Ghent 
 
 Church of St Nicholas. 
 The Bridge of Sighs, 
 
 Venice. 
 A Street in Frankfort, 
 
 on the Maine. 
 Old Houses at Trarbach, 
 
 on the Moselle. 
 
 1849 
 
 The Poute della Paglia, 
 Venice. 
 
 The Kool Kaie, Ant- 
 werp. 
 
 1850 
 
 A Street in Bologna, 
 looking towards the 
 Grand Square. 
 
 The Trongate, Glasgow. 
 
 1851 
 
 Piazza, delle Erbe, 
 
 Verona. 
 The Hotel de Sens, 
 
 Paris. 
 At Frankfort. 
 
 1852 
 
 Looking up the Street 
 at Innsbruck from 
 the Golden Roof. 
 
 Old Houses in Coney 
 Street, York. 
 
 1853 
 
 The Town Hall of 
 
 Courtrai, Belgium. 
 Mill at Antwerp. 
 
 1854 
 Venice. 
 Venice. 
 Bacharach, on the Rhine. 
 
 1855 
 
 The Kauf-Haus on the 
 Mosel-Quay, Coblenz. 
 
 Market Day at Rich- 
 mond, Yorkshire. 
 
 1856 
 
 High Street, Tewkes- 
 bury. 
 
 The Butter Cross, Salis- 
 bury. 
 
 1857 
 
 Tintern Abbey. 
 Abbeville Cathedral. 
 
 1858 
 
 The Rialto, Venice. 
 173 
 
 1859 
 
 Dover Beach in Old 
 
 Times. 
 Interior of the Port of 
 
 Havre. 
 
 I860 
 
 Goethe's House, Dom 
 Plate, Frankfort. 
 
 1861 
 
 Fish Market, Malines. 
 Rouen Cathedral. 
 
 1862 
 Rheinfels and St. Goar. 
 
 1863 
 
 Derby Hall, a Relic of 
 Old Chester. 
 
 Hanover. 
 
 1864 
 1866 
 
 Tower at Andernach, on 
 
 the Rhine. 
 Street in Milan. 
 
 1867 
 
 Lympne Castle, Kent 
 Havre Sunset.
 
 INDEX 
 
 Aberdeen, 114 
 
 Abergavenny, 101 
 
 Agen, 46 
 
 Aiguillon, 46 
 
 Aix, 56 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle, 71 
 
 Albert, Prince Consort, 91, 103, 
 
 106, 118, 121 
 Alf, 93 
 
 Allee Blanche, 68 
 Alnwick, 90 
 Altdorf, 69 
 Amboise, 36 
 Amelie, Queen of France, 26, 80, 
 
 108 
 
 Amstag, 69 
 Amsterdam, 96 
 Ancona, 145 
 Andermatt, 69 
 Andernach, 70 
 Angeley, Madame, 25 
 Angera, 75 
 Angouleme, 42 
 Antwerp, 96, 105 
 Aosta, 68 
 Arezzo, 78 
 Argeles, 50 
 Aries, 54 
 Arona, 75 
 AskeHall, 115 
 Assisi, 78 
 
 Aston Clinton, 116 
 Auch, 47 
 Aumale, Due d', 72 
 
 Aumale, Duchesse d', 133 
 Auxerre, 60 
 Avignon, 56, 79 
 Avranches, 86 
 
 Babelsberg, 130, 131 
 Bach centenary, 105 
 Bacharach, 70 
 Baden-Baden, 70 
 Bagneres-de-Bigorre, 51 
 Bamborough Castle, 90 
 Barbezieux, 43 
 Basle, 144 
 Bayham Abbey, 136 
 Beaucaire, 53 
 Beaugency, 34 
 Bedgebury, 136 
 Bellaggio, 76 
 Bellinzona, 76 
 Bellisin, Marquis de, 23 
 Bentley, Charles, 4, 5, 62, 63, -64, 
 
 74, 86, 100, 101, 109 
 Beresford-Hope, Lady Mildred, 
 
 135 
 Beresford-Hope, Mr. A. J., M.P., 
 
 136 
 
 Berkhampstead, 112, 117 
 Berlin, 129, 131, 138 
 Berncastel, 93 
 Berwick, 90 
 Besancon, 67 
 Beziers, 52 
 Bingen, 70 
 Blanc, Mont, 67, 68 
 
 175
 
 176 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Blois, 35, 114 
 
 Bodmer, German artist, 24 
 
 Bologna, 145 
 
 Bouingtou, R. P., 18 
 
 Bonn, 71, 137 
 
 Bouneval, 32 
 
 Bonneville, 67 
 
 Boppart, 70 
 
 Bordeaux, 44 
 
 Boulogne-sur-Mer, 63 
 
 Bourgueil, 38 
 
 Boys, Thomas Shorter, 18, 21, 22, 
 
 23, 27, 73 
 Brieg, 75 
 Brighton, 16 
 Bristol, 88 
 
 British Institution, 100, 104 
 Bruges, 91, 105 
 Bruhl, Countess, 127 
 Brunnen, 69 
 Brunswick, 107 
 Brussels, 71, 144 
 Bury, Lady Beaujolois, 85 
 Bute, Kyles of, 103 
 
 Cadenabbia, 76 
 
 Caen, 86, 109 
 
 Calais, 10, 17, 91, 144 
 
 Callow, John, 2, 29, 31, 63, 82, 
 94, 105, 111, 114 
 
 Callow, Mrs., death of, 143 
 
 Callow, William, birth, 1 ; appren- 
 ticed, 4 ; went to Paris, 9 ; 
 Associate of " Old Society," 64 ; 
 returned to London, 81 ; first 
 marriage, 94; Member of "Old 
 Society," 100 ; Secretary of 
 Old Society, 133 ; abandoned 
 teaching, 142 ; second marriage, 
 144 ; congratulatory address, 
 147 ; " One Man's Show," 147 
 
 Cambrai, 31, 71 
 
 Cambridge, Duchess of, 106 
 
 Camden, Marquis of, 136 
 
 Campagna, 78 
 
 Candes, 38 
 
 Cannero, Mont, 76 
 
 Capri, Isle of, 146 
 
 Carcassonne, 52 
 
 Garden, 91 
 
 Carlsruhe, 70 
 
 Caroline, Queen, 2, 78 
 
 Cassel, 107 
 
 Castellamare, 79 
 
 Castel Lettere, 79 
 
 Castres, 45 
 
 Cattermole, G., 65 
 
 Cauterets, 50 
 
 Chailles, 36 
 
 Chalou, 59 
 
 " Cham," 72 
 
 Chambord, Chateau de, 34 
 
 Chamouny, 67, 68 
 
 Charles X., 12, 14 
 
 Chartres, 32 
 
 Chateaudun, 32 
 
 Chatsworth, 91 
 
 Chaunay, 41 
 
 Chenonceaux, 36 
 
 Chequers Court, 113 
 
 Cherniticheff, Viceroy of Poland, 
 
 65 
 
 Chesham, 112 
 Chester, 108 
 Claremont, 108 
 Clementine, Princess, 25, 64, 71, 
 
 73, 80, 82, 106, 108, 116, 122 
 Cleopatra's Needle, 143 
 Cluses, 67 
 Clyde, River, 89 
 Cobleuz, 70, 91, 119 
 Coburg, 121 
 Cochem, 92 
 Col de la Seigne, 68 
 Cologne, 71, 91, 97, .107, 137, 144 
 Combal, Lake, 68 
 Como, 76 
 
 Constable, John, R.A., 22 
 Constance, 69 
 Cooke, E. W., R.A., 22 
 Cooke, George, 22 
 Corfe Castle, 88 
 Courtrai, 105 
 Coutts, Miss Burdett, 135
 
 INDEX 
 
 177 
 
 Couvercle, 68 
 Cox, David, 4, 102 
 Crewe, Miss, 88 
 Crewe Hall, 89 
 Crontille, 41 
 Croydon, 6, 17 
 
 Dartmouth, 88, 142 
 
 Delft, 90 
 
 Denmark, Queen of, 134 
 
 Devonshire, Duke of, 91 
 
 De Wint, Peter, 4, 102 
 
 Dickens, Charles, 101, 121 
 
 Dieppe, 16, 87, 109 
 
 Dijon, 67, 75 
 
 Disraeli, Benjamin, 135 
 
 Domaso, 76 
 
 Domo d' Ossola, 75 
 
 Donzere, 57 
 
 Dover, 10, 17, 63, 103, 144 
 
 Dresden, 138 
 
 Duff, Sir Grant, 140 
 
 Dufferin, Lord, 88 
 
 Dumas, Alexandre, 64 
 
 Dunkirk, 91 
 
 Durand-lluel, publisher, 63 
 
 Durham, 90 
 
 Dtisseldorf, 107 
 
 Edge, John, 4, 5, 28, 31 
 Edinburgh, 90, 114 
 Ehrenbreitstein, 70 
 Ellison Collection, 106 
 Elz, Schloss, 92 
 Ems, 137 
 Escaliadieu, 51 
 Etaples, 40 
 Evans " of Eton," 101 
 Exeter, 88 
 
 Faucigny, Comte de, 24 
 
 Ferrara, 77 
 
 Fielding, Copley, 3, 4, 5, 65, 101, 
 
 113 
 Fielding, Newton, 11, 13, 17, 18, 
 
 20, 21 
 Fielding, Thales, 5, 7, 10 
 
 Fielding, Theodore, 3, 4, 5, 6, 17 
 
 Fils, Monsieur, 53 
 
 Florence, 78, 146 
 
 Flower, Cyril (Battersea, Lord), 
 
 118 
 
 Fliielen, 69, 98 
 Foligno, 78 
 Folkestone, 115 
 Foutevrault, 38 
 Forman, Mr., 67, 68, 75, 78 
 Foster, Mrs., 20 
 Frankfort, 70, 107 
 Freiburg, 70 
 Frere, Mr. A., 120 
 Fripp, George, 133 
 
 Geneva, 67, 75 
 
 Genoa, 79, 141, 146 
 
 Germany, Crown Prince of, see 
 
 Prussia 
 Germany, Crown Princess of, see 
 
 Prussia 
 Ghent, 105 
 Giesseu, 137 
 
 Giradon, M., publisher, 61, 62 
 Glacier du Rhone, 69 
 Glasgow, 89, 103 
 Glennie, Arthur, 141 
 Goodrich Court, 101 
 Gragnano, 79 
 Grant and Speke, 121 
 Gravedona, 76 
 Great Missenden, 112 
 Greenwich, 1, 2 
 Grimsel, 69 
 Grindelwald, 69 
 
 Haarlem, 96 
 Hague, The, 95 
 Halberstadt, 139 
 Halton, 135 
 
 Hampden House, 113, 140 
 Handegg Waterfall, 69 
 Hanover, 107 
 Havre, 28, 62, 87, 109 
 Hawkins, Ca>sar, 115 
 Heath, Charles, publisher, (52, 6(> 
 23
 
 178 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Heidelberg, 70, 137 
 Herculaneum, 79 
 Hereford, 100 
 Himley, Mr., 21, 29, 82 
 Hohenloe, Count, 130 
 Hohenloe, Countess, 127 
 Honfleur, 28 
 Hunt, Holman, 118 
 Hunt, William, 102 
 
 Illustrated London News, 103 
 Innsbruck, 97, 98 
 Interlacken, 68 
 Inveraray, 103 
 
 Jedburgh, 90 
 
 Joinville, Prince de, 26, 81, 82, 108 
 
 Jumieges, 28 
 
 Jungfrau, 68 
 
 Kalergi, Mr., 85 
 
 Katz, castle of, 70 
 
 Kemble, Adelaide (Mrs. Sartoris), 
 
 87 
 Kingsbridge, 142 
 
 Lac de Gaube, 50 
 
 La Chapin, 68 
 
 La Couroiine, 43 
 
 Langeais, 37 
 
 Langon, 45 
 
 Laimemezan, 51 
 
 La Palude, 57 
 
 Larbarlestier, Mr., 28 
 
 La Re'ole, 46 
 
 Lausanne, 67, 75, 146 
 
 Lauterbrunnen, 68 
 
 Lectoure, 47 
 
 Lee, 119 
 
 Leeds, 115 
 
 Leghorn, 79 
 
 Leipsic, 107 
 
 Le Pe'age, 59 
 
 Lewis, John, R. A., 26, 64, 65, 114 
 
 I^eydeu, 90 
 
 Liege, 71 
 
 Liddes, (58 
 
 Lille, 105 
 
 Limburg, 137 
 
 Lin/., 138 
 
 Lisieux, 109 
 
 Liverpool, 89, 109 
 
 Loriol, 58 
 
 Loudun, 39 
 
 Loueche, 68 
 
 Louis Philippe, King, 15, 24, 27 
 
 62, 73, 74, 107, 108 
 Louise, Princess, 134 
 Lourdes, 48, 49 
 Lowestoft, 29 
 Lucerne, 69, 99, 145 
 Lugano, 76 
 Luxor, the, 23 
 Luynes, 37 
 Lyme Regis, 88 
 Lyons, 59, 74, 79, 80 
 
 Mackenzie, J., 72 
 
 Macon, 59 
 
 Madeley Manor, 88, 89 
 
 Magdeburg, 139 
 
 Malines, 91 
 
 Manchester, 108 
 
 Mansle, 42 
 
 Marburg, 137 
 
 Marienburg, 93 
 
 Marmande, 46 
 
 Mars, Mdlle., 73 
 
 Marseilles, 54, 55, 79 
 
 Martigny, 68 
 
 Mayence, 70 
 
 Mayendorff, Baronne, 65 
 
 Mecklenberg - Strelitz, Grand 
 
 Duchess of, 134 
 Melrose, 90 
 
 Mendelssohn's grave, 131 
 Mentmore, 116 
 Mer de Glace, 67 
 Meung, 33 
 Meyringen, 69 
 Me/e, 53 
 Migne, 41 
 Milan, 76, 145 
 Mirebeau, 40
 
 INDEX 
 
 179 
 
 Moumouth, 101 
 
 Montanvert, <J7 
 
 Monte di Fo, 78 
 
 Montelimar, 57 
 
 Monthou, 36 
 
 Montlieu, 44 
 
 Montpellier, 53 
 
 Montrichard, 36 
 
 Moon, Boys, and Graves, Messrs., 
 
 73 
 
 Mornas, 57 
 Moselle River, 91, 93 
 Munich, 97 
 
 Nantborrant, 68 
 
 Nantes, 114 
 
 Naples, 79, 141, 145 
 
 Napoleon I., 80, 86 
 
 Narbonne, 52 
 
 Narni, 78 
 
 Naudet, Mdlle., 24 
 
 Nemours, Due de, 25, 73, 80 
 
 Nepi, 78 
 
 Neuilly, 71 
 
 Nicolai, Comte de, 24 
 
 Nimes, 53 
 
 Noe, Comte de, 62, 72, 86 
 
 Norman Cross, 2 
 
 Norwich, Bishop of, 99 
 
 Noyons, 71 
 
 Nuremburg, 97 
 
 Oberwesel, 70 
 
 Offley, Mrs. Cunliffe, 88 
 
 Old Water-Colour Society, 64, 74, 
 
 81, 99, 100, 101, 104, 105, 106, 
 
 109, 114, 118, 147 
 Orange, 56, 80 
 Orgon, 56 
 Orleans, 33 
 Ostend, 97 
 
 Ostervald, Mr., 6, 10, 11 
 Outhwaite, engraver, 62 
 Owen, Professor, 136 
 Oxford, Bishop of, 120, 135 
 Padua, 77 
 Paris, 7, 10, 19, 94, 134, 144, 146 
 
 Passau, 138 
 
 Paxton, Sir Joseph, 91 
 
 Percy, Sidney, 133 
 
 Perugia, 78 
 
 Pezenas, 52 
 
 Pfal/, 70 
 
 Pfeffers, Bains de, 69 
 
 Phelps, Dr., 136 
 
 Pierrefitte, 50 
 
 Plymouth, 88 
 
 Poitiers, 41 
 
 Pompeii, 79, 141, 146 
 
 Pont d'Espagne, 50 
 
 Portarlier, 67 
 
 Port St. Marie, 46 
 
 Portsmouth, 29 
 
 Potsdam, 125, 126, 131, 139 
 
 Poynter, Ambrose, 20 
 
 Prague, 138 
 
 Prinsep, W., 89 
 
 Prout, Samuel, 4, 22 
 
 Prussia, Crown Prince of, 125, 129, 
 
 138 
 Prussia, Crown Princess of, 125, 
 
 129, 132, 138 
 
 Prussia, King William, 129, 130 
 Pyramids, 103 
 Pyrenees, 47 
 
 Quatre Cantons, Lake of, 69 
 Quillebffiuf, 28 
 
 Rabastens, 47 
 
 Rachel, Mdlle., 73 
 
 Ragata, 69 
 
 Ramsgate, 96 
 
 Rappenschwyl, 69 
 
 Ratisbou, 138 
 
 Reichenbach, 69 
 
 Reigate, 111 
 
 Remagen, 71 
 
 Reuss Valley, 69 
 
 Revolution of 1830, French, 12 
 
 Rheinhardtsbrunn, 121, 126 
 
 Rhine, river, 70, 91, 97 
 
 Richmond, view from, 24 
 
 Richmond (Yorks), 108, 115
 
 180 
 
 WILLIAM CALLOW 
 
 Rome, 78, 79, 141, 142, 146 
 
 Horseback, 69 
 
 Rosenlaui, 69 
 
 Rosenau, 124 
 
 Ross, 101 
 
 Rothschild, Baroness Meyer de, 
 
 116 
 
 Rothschild, Lady Anthony de, 115 
 Rotterdam, 95 
 
 Rouen, 16, 28, 62, 71, 74, 109 
 Rouget, Viscomte de, 24 
 Roullet, 43 
 Royal Academy, 104 
 Royal Geographical Society, 121 
 Rudesheim, 70 
 Ruffec, 41 
 Runkel, 137 
 
 St. Andre, 44 
 
 St. Bernard, Hospital of, 68 
 
 St. Cloud, 21, 72 
 
 St. Gaudens, 51 
 
 St. Goar, 70 
 
 St. Gotthard, 69 
 
 St. Hilaire, 46 
 
 St. Laurent, 34 
 
 St. Malo, 86 
 
 St. Martin, 67 
 
 St. Maurice, 75 
 
 St. Re'my, 68 
 
 St. Valery, 72 
 
 St. Vallier, 59 
 
 Salcombe, 142 
 
 Salon, Paris, 74 
 
 Salzburg, 138 
 
 Sambin, 36 
 
 Samur, 38 
 
 Sans Souci, 127, 139 
 
 Schaffhausen, 70 
 
 Scheidegg, 69 
 
 Scheveningen, 95 
 
 Schweiter, Mr., 22, 28 
 
 Schweitzer, Baron, 82, 86 
 
 Scotney Castle, 136 
 
 Seckendorf, Count, 139, 141 
 
 Sens, 60 
 
 Servoz Valley, 67 
 
 Simplon Pass, 75 
 
 Sion, 68 
 
 Smart, Harriet Anne (Mrs. 
 
 Callow), 94, 96, 143 
 Smart, Henry, 94, 105, 115, 119 
 Smart, Mrs., 118 
 Smart, Sir George, 94 
 Soherr, Herr, 32 
 Southampton, 29 
 Spoleto, 78 
 
 Stackelberg, Comte, 65, 86 
 Stanley, Mr. Owen, 99 
 Staubbach, 68 
 Stettin, 131 
 Stirling, 114 
 Strasbourg, 70 
 
 Stratford de Redcliffe, Lady, 87 
 Sudbrook Hall, 105 
 Switzerland, 97, 144 
 
 Tagore, Dawarkanath, 89 
 
 Tain, 58 
 
 Talbot, Mr., 33 
 
 Tarbes, 47 
 
 Taylor, Frederick, 133 
 
 Teignmouth, 88 
 
 Tell, William, 69 
 
 Terni, 78 
 
 Tewkesbury, 100 
 
 Thackeray, W. M., 81 
 
 Thionville, 94 
 
 Thun, 68 
 
 Tonneins, 46 
 
 Torquay, 88 
 
 Torre del Greco, 79 
 
 Toulon, 55 
 
 Toulouse, 51 
 
 Tournai, 105 
 
 Tours, 37, 114 
 
 Trarbach, 92, 119 
 
 Trasimeno, Lake, 78 
 
 Travelling, 71, 80 
 
 Trent, 98 
 
 Treves, 93 
 
 Triqueti, Baron, 19 
 
 Turin, 141 
 
 Turner, J. M. W., R. A., 61, 66, 99
 
 INDEX 
 
 181 
 
 Unterseen, 68 
 
 Valence, 58 
 
 Valenciennes, 71 
 
 Vandermere, Mr., 22 
 
 Varley, John, 4 
 
 Venice, 77, 07, 98, 134, 141, 142, 
 
 145 
 
 Verona, 77, 98, 134, 145 
 Versailles, 21, 72 
 Vevey, 67, 75 
 Vicenza, 98 
 Victoria, Queen, 65, 91, 103, 106, 
 
 118, 124, 132 
 Vienne, 59 
 Villeneuve, 67 
 Vivoune, 41 
 Vouvray, 37 
 
 Wales, Prince of, 134 
 
 Water-Colour Society, Old, see 
 
 Old Society 
 Weilburg, 137 
 Wengern Alp, 68 
 Wesen, 69 
 Wetterhorn, 69 
 Wight, Isle of, 29, 63 
 Williams, Penry, 141 
 Wilson, Sir Erasmus, 143 
 Winchester, 29 
 Windsor Castle, 6 
 Windus, Mr. Geoffrey, 99 
 Worcester, 100 
 WQrzburg, 138 
 Wye, River, 101 
 
 Yarmouth, Great, 63 
 
 Zetland, Lady, 115 
 Zurich, 69 
 
 THE END 
 
 Printed by R. & R. CI.ARK, LIMITED, Edinburgh.
 
 IN THE SAME SERIES 
 
 GEORGE MORLAND 
 
 HIS LIFE AND WORKS 
 
 BY SIR WALTER GILBEY, BART. 
 
 AND 
 
 E. D. CUMING 
 
 Containing 49 full-page reproductions in colour of the artist's best work 
 
 and a reproduction of Thomas Rowlandson 's "water-colour 
 
 drawing of George Morland 
 
 SQUARE DEMY 8vo, CLOTH, GILT TOP 
 
 Price 2OS. Net 
 
 (Post Free, Price 20s. 6d.) 
 
 1 HERE is also an Edition de Luxe, limited to 250 copies, 
 each copy being signed and numbered. It contains the 
 earliest impressions of the illustrations, and the letterpress 
 is printed on hand -made paper. Bound in white vellum 
 cloth, gilt top. 
 
 Price 2 Guineas net. (Post Free, Price 42$. 8d.} 
 
 Each of these copies will be accompanied by a mounted 
 reproduction in colour of " Gathering Sticks," in its original 
 size, viz. 15 x 12 inches. 
 
 SOME PRESS OPINIONS 
 
 " It is far and away the best of the many books on Morland. . . . We have 
 nothing but praise for the illustrations. The fifty pictures have been selected with 
 excellent judgment from undoubted originals in the possession of Sir Walter Gilbey, 
 Sir Edward Tennant, Mr. T. J. Barratt, Mr. Lockett Agnew, and others, and reproduced 
 in colours with a fidelity to the originals which is amazing." The Atheneeum. 
 
 "Several first-rate books have been published on this subject of late, but none is 
 better or more beautifully produced. . . . The reproductions of Morland's works are 
 most exquisitely done, and are triumphs of colour-printing." The Globe. 
 
 ' ' One of the most beautiful books of the year. ' ' The Outlook. 
 
 " The book is a perfect gem of its class, a treasure for artist and layman alike." 
 Aberdeen Free Press. 
 
 "This admirable volume forms a valuable and important acquisition to art literature 
 on account of the completeness of the biographical portion and the excellence and number 
 of the illustrations." The Studio. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
 
 IN THE SAME SERIES 
 
 BIRKET FOSTER 
 
 BY 
 
 H. M. CUNDALL, I.S.O., F.S.A. 
 
 Containing 73 full-page reproductions in colour of Birket Foster's 
 work and numerous other illustrations 
 
 SQUARE DEMY 8vo. CLOTH, GILT TOP 
 
 Price 2OS. Net 
 
 (Post Free, Price 20s. 6d.) 
 
 1 HERE is also an Edition de Luxe, limited to 500 copies, 
 each copy being signed and numbered. It contains the 
 earliest impressions of the illustrations, and the letterpress 
 is printed on hand-made paper. Bound in white vellum 
 cloth, gilt top. 
 
 Each of these copies contains an original etching by 
 BIRKET FOSTER. 
 
 Price 2 Guineas net. (Post Free, Price 425. 8d.) 
 
 SOME PRESS OPINIONS 
 
 ' ' Mr. Cundall has performed a task which should win for him the gratitude of many. 
 He has given us a brief and interesting life of Birket Foster, but he has done much more 
 than this he has filled the volume with a large and representative selection of the pictures 
 of that artist, which have been beautifully produced." Daily News. 
 
 "The life is beautifully told, and the pictures are simply delightful." Country Life. 
 
 ' ' This is a very valuable and well-informed record of a popular and sometimes a great 
 artist." Morning Leader. 
 
 ' ' Lovers of the restful old-world drawings of Birket Foster will prize this volume. . . . 
 The pictures are exquisitely reproduced. " British Weekly. 
 
 " One of the prettiest books it has ever been our lot to handle." Daily Graphic. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 Santa Barbara 
 
 THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW. 
 
 CIRC. AFTER AUG1 4 1971 
 
 jUL26'i988 
 
 Series 9482
 
 3 1205 00822 4394 
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LBRAflY 
 
 A 000663157 6