1? JsjB^. LIBRARY VM I II I. University of California. Received ^/l/Ltf/r. , i8qC? Accession No . t? *? *C cT(p . Class No. E§*3 \E££&I kH13 S§j§ 4bv££gI ^H2 dK^3 ErE§?3S *2^£ t-'> ; *3Ki ^^1 Ep^aB ^Sli^S 4^^9 $559 £^3 ^s^ fc^23 £|»3| Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2006 with funding from Microsoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/cookeryforworkinOOunitrich The Helping Hand Club Tissue IRo. I COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN'S WIVES REPRINTED FROM Reports from ttje Cottsttla of tfje WimtzU states, No. 107. <&-Z.#£ NEW ALMADEN 1890 The Helping Hand Club Ussue IRo. I COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN'S WIVES REPRINTED FROM fteports from tfje Consuls of tfje 8&m'teD States, No. 107. Off TEW ■ 7BESIT NEW ALMADEN 1890 VY, SEPTEMBER 29, 1888. A Miners' Club-House. A social organization known as the " Help- ing Hand " was organized a few years ago at the New Almaden quicksilver mines, Santa Clara county. The company supplied a build- ing for the club-house, and this is well fur- nished and arranged for social purposes. Mr. Randol, the manager of the company, con- ceived the idea of fitting up a comfortable hall, with reading-room and kitchen attached, and this was carried out successfully. All who pay $1 a month to the " Miners' Fund " are entitled to the privileges and can come to the hall when open, play games, read, or take a cup of tea, chocolate or coffee, with cake. No gambling or drinking of spirituous liquors is allowed. Smok. ing is permitted in the main hall, also games, and in the reading-room no smoking or talking is allowed. There is a good library, and all the magazines and daily and weekly papers are kept on file. The attendance is good, the rooms being very generally frequented in the evenings. There is a cook-room where light refreshments are serv- ed at moderate cost. Entertainments of vari- ous kinds are given in the hall. Most of the amusements are arranged by the residents and are free. There are sometimes dramatic enter- tainments given by outsiders at which an ad- misBion is charged, the main ha ll or auditorium being fitted with a stage and scenery, so that it is possible for small companies to render plays there. The Helping Hand Society is almost wholly oonducted by the mine management. The '•Miners' Fund," by which it is maintained, is made up by monthly contributions of $1 from each adult employe of the company. The build- ing of the society is shown in the accom- panying engraving, which was made direct ' from a photograph taken by Mr. Bulmore, one of the officers of the mine, who is a skillful amateur photographer. *& (o IMIVISSITTJ w OF tB3« COOKERY FQR WORKING-MEN'S WIVES REPORT BY UNITED STATES CONSUL UNDERWOOD, OF GLASGOW. I have the honor to state that I was lately invited to be present at a " demonstration" of a school for women in cooking and other branches of domestic economy. I should not, perhaps, be justified in making this report if the instruction followed ordinary lines. The novelty consists partly in cheapness, and having seen a good, palatable, and nutritious meal for six persons prepared at a cost of Is. (24 cents), and having observed the ameliorating influences flowing out from the school, I have thought some account of it might be of use in certain crowded districts of the United States, where the advice and assistance of the benevolent is needed. The school was established three years ago in Govan, a large ship-building town adjoining Glasgow, by Mrs. John Elder, widow of the well-known ship-builder, and all the expenses thus far have been paid by her. It is held in Broomloan Hall, belonging to the Established Presbyterian Church, under the charge of Rev. Dr. Macleod, who, with Mrs. Macleod, has taken an active part in promoting the work. The teacher, Miss Martha H. Gordon, is a sensible and practical woman,' and has shown great tact in gaining the good-will and sympathy of those among whom she has labored. This confidence appears to be an indispensable prerequisite ; the distrustful attitude of those needing help often frustrates any attempt to benefit them. 4 # COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN S WIVES. The school, though primarily aiming at humble things, seems likely to have the broader effect of raising the plane of life and morals. The pupils are in two classes (1), mothers and unmarried women over twenty, and (2) girls of twenty and under. Girls are not generally received until they have left school. Each class meets twice a week for lessons in cooking and once a week for darning and mending. Instruction is also given in starching and ironing. In the leisure hours of every day Miss Gordon goes, as a friendly adviser, to houses in the district, wherever she is asked — some- times to pupils' houses, sometimes to others — giving practical in- structions upon all household matters. The mothers' class this last season numbered over two hundred, the younger class about one hundred and thirty. The attendance was naturally more regular in the latter. The numbers in both classes have been far too large for one teacher. From seventy -five to one hundred should be the maximum number, and for the next season additional teachers will be employed. The two classes represent about two hundred families, all of which, and a great many more, have been often visited by the teacher. The pupils are the wives and daughters of workmen in ship-yards and machine-shops, and of common laborers. The teacher thinks there is a visible improvement in the condition of at least thirty families, with hopeful signs in more. The gain is in personal neatness, in manners, speech, and general tone. The houses are more tidy and the children better clothed, and there are other cheerful signs, such as flower-pots in the windows. The teacher thinks the younger pupils will be lifted permanently, and not relapse when they become mothers of families. At present the chief obstacle in the way of improvement is the want of education. The girls read fairly, but write with difficulty. The heads of these families earn from 15.s. to 25s. per week ($3.75 to $6.25). For a " house" of one room (meaning one room in an apartment house) the rent is from £0 to £7 per annum ($29.10 to $34.02); for a house of two rooms from £7 to £9 ($34.02 to $43.74). The taxes, water, and gas amount to about one-fifth as much as the rent in addition. A very little arithmetic is necessary to show how small a sum is left for clothing and food. From these statements the importance of a system of instruction by which food can be prepared at a low cost will be evident, In many respects the instruction has been general — that is, as to the ways and means by which all successful cooking is best carried on ; but the materials have been chosen with rigid economy, COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN S WIVES. O so as to produce satisfactory results with the least money. It is easy enough to cook good dinners when there is an unlimited larder. Mrs. Elder offered a series of prizes in money and in books, from £2 ($9.72) downwards, and on the day of the " demonstration" there was a long show of bowls filled with hotch-potch (a broth with an abundance of minced vegetables), of oat-cake, and of " scones" (thin wheaten cakes, made light with baking-powder). There were shown, also, specimens of mending clothes, of darning stockings, of ironing shirts, etc. The teacher, assisted by two pupils, stood upon a platform before the cooking range, and went through all the operations required to prepare and cook a meal. Every process and mode of manipulation was explained step by step. This occupied nearly two hours, and there were produced several excellent dishes ; a fish soup, a kidney and liver soup, and a meat pie were the most successful. The fish soup was made of a large cod's head, with the addition of rice, onions, and potatoes. The kettle contained over 6 quarts, and the cost was a little more than sixpence. The meat pie is called " sea pie," because it is in general use among sailors. The peculiar excellence of Miss Gor- don's method is in making the meat tender and the crust light and not greasy. The flavor was excellent. The exact cost of each dish was given. The competition was not for the production of any one dish. Each competitor furnished in writing a plan for a series of fourteen dinners for a family of six, no dinner to exceed Is. (24 cents) in cost, the price and quantity of each ingredient to be stated. One dinner was produced by each, for which the soup was broth. Each competitor also baked scones and oat-cakes. After the examination of the specimens of cookery, mending, etc., the company adjourned to the large hall. The chair was taken by Dr. McLean, surgeon-general of the British army, who made a speech full of good sense and of practical knowledge, and with a clearness and beauty of phrase that left nothing to be de- sired. The hall was completely filled by the pupils and their families and friends. The prizes were given to the successful competitors, and a large number of books were bestowed upon other meritorious pupils. The scene was really affecting, mainly on account of the condition of the people interested. The bestowal of honors at a university was a commonplace affair in comparison. The time will soon come, if it has not come already, when j|I7BJSIt V 6 COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN'S WIVES. efforts of the kind here described will be needed in the more populous districts of the United States, and without depreciating the benevolent institutions which aim to diffuse intellectual and moral influences among the working people, I submit that showing them how to live comfortably upon their small wages and inducing them to cultivate habits of order, neatness, and self-respect is not less important. F. H. UNDERWOOD, United States Consulate, Consul. Glasgow, September 6, 1888. COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN S WIVES. [Inclosure in Consul Underwood's report.] COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN'S WIVES. (By Martha H. Gordon, as taught in Mrs. John Elder's domestic cookery classes, at Govan, near Glasgow, Scotland.) PREFACE. One of the principal objects of the instruction in domestic economy provided and organized in Govan some years ago by Mrs. John Elder, is to teach plain and economical cookery to women in classes, and especially at their homes. Since this movement was begun, domestic economy has been more largely taken up by school-boards in classes from the fifth standard upwards. Obviously, however, great need still exists, and must continue to exist — many children leaving the schools before they reach the fifth standard — for instruction of the kind, and given in the mode contemplated by Mrs. Elder. The recipes in this little cookery book are among those which I have been in the habit of teaching and illustrating, in fulfillment of the duties assigned to me by Mrs. Elder. They are here printed in the hope that they may be useful, not only to those attending the classes here and in the homes of Govan, but to the wives and daughters of artisans elsewhere. Some recipes for more advanced cookery have been added, together with directions in regard to washing, sanitary hints, etc. But it will be observed that the great aim kept in view is to help working-men's wives to provide thoroughly good and nutritrious food for their families at the smallest possible cost. Some of the ingredients are, perhaps, not commonly used, but the use of them does not involve much trouble, and they will be found to make nutritious and substantial meals. (1) Let me say, do not despise the importance of proper food to the human body. In order to nourish properly every part of the human body food should be carefully prepared and often varied. It is one of the duties of women, and a very important one, to attend to this. The mother of a family should grudge no trouble to gain skill and knowledge as to the best method of providing nourishing and palatable food for her husband and children. My experience has shown me that there are very many good, nutritious 8 COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEX's WIVES. dishes to be made at exceedingly small cost. Unhappily, there are comparatively few who will take enough thought or trouble to prepare them. How many homes would be healthier, brighter, and happier if our women could only be brought to see how much depends on them, and bestir themselves in the matter. (2) Do not despise the use of what are called scraps of meat. Scraps of meat, which can be got cheap from the butcher, will, with care and attention, make good pies and stews, and are as nutritious as more expensive cuts. A working-man's wife who studies economy and tries by careful cooking to get all the nourishment possible out of food will be able to feed her family on a tenth of what one who is careless and ignorant requires. (3) The great art in cooking is to keep in all the nutrition, salts, etc., of our foods, and to prevent them from being wasted in vapor up the chimney or through the house. All foods, whether heat- giving, flesh-forming, or stimulant, should therefore be cooked so as to keep in their several juices and flavors. All foods over or under done are wasteful. (4) Of the various modes of cooking I think one of the most economical, if attended to, is stewing. A clean pot with a close lid is required for stewing. After the stew is in the pot and warm do not remove the lid till it is ready, but give the pot a shake once or twice to keep it from sticking, and when done you will have a dish with all the nourishment and flavor in it. (5) To boil meat for soup put it in cold water, to dissolve all the juices. To boil meat so as to keep in the juices put it in boiling water and boil fast for ten minutes, to form a crust to keep in the juices, then simmer. (6) All bones for soup should be boiled for some hours, when the fire is not otherwise in use, so as to take all the goodness out of them, and this has not been done until they are perfectly light. The common practice of taking only two hours to boil a bone for soup is both careless and extravagant. If you wish to make a penn}'- go as far as possible by preventing the loss from any article of food you cook of a single element of flavor or nutritiveness, which is the object of perfect and economical cookery, remember to boil long and slowty, keeping the lid of your pot on as much as possible. By this means a pot of soup costing only a few pennies will be more savory and enjoyable than one costing many shillings and carelessly made. (7) Some sweet herbs, such as thyme, marjoram, mint, etc. (which can be grown at your windows), or a little celery seeds and two or COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN's WIVES. 9 three cloves tied in a bit of muslin are a great improvement to many soups and stews. (8) It is much better, when you can, to grate your vegetables ; both the flavor and color is better than when boiled and put through a sieve. (9) In selecting vegetables see that they are perfectly fresh. After washing and trimming them, leave them in cold water and salt for an hour, so as to get rid of any slugs and make them crisp if drooping. To cook green vegetables, such as cabbage, greens, etc., have plenty of water with salt and a little soda in it, and when quite boiling put in the vegetables and boil quickly. Do not close lid of pot, and remove all scum as it rises. Without attention to these directions the vegetables will not be a good color. All water that green vegetables have been boiled in should be taken to the ash pit, as if put down the sink the smell would be very unpleasant in the house. With roots, such as turnips, carrots, etc., the lid may be kept on the pot. Turnips should be peeled rather thickly, then cut in four, or in slices, and boiled till tender. Carrots are only scraped, not peeled, then cut lengthways in four, and boiled till tender. If onions be boiled whole, care must be taken not to cut their tops too short, as they will fall to pieces. Never leave vegetables in the water after they are cooked enough. (10) The following recipes are specially intended for the ordin- ary kitchen utensils and open fires. Some of them may appear to be repetitions, but this is not the case, as the same ingredients, when cooked in a different way, will produce a different result. Should any of the recipes seem long, it must be remembered that they, in some cases, give complete dinners, and so contain several recipes in one. (11) The quantities specified are, as a rule, given in proportion suitable for a family from four to six in number, and the prices given are averages. M. H. Gordon. PLAIN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. Porridge. — To make really good porridge let the water come to the boiling point before the meal is put in. Pour the meal in from the left hand in a continuous stream, stirring all the time till it comes to the boil. In this consists the chief art of porridge making, and on its being well done depends the smoothness. Allow it to boil for ten minutes, then add the salt. Salt has a tendency to harden, and would prevent the meal from swelling. Boil for ten minutes after the salt has been added. Dish and take with milk. The quantity and consistency of the porridge must be regulated by the cook. Wheat meal porridge. — Have 1 quart of water at the boiling point ; take three good handfuls, or about 2J teacupfuls, of wheat meal; pour the meal regularly from the left hand, stirring all the time. There must be no lumps in it. Boil for ten minutes, add salt to taste, and boil for ten minutes more. Serve with milk, treacle, or stewed fruit. Porridge (for indigestion). — One pound barley meal, 1 pound oatmeal, 2 pounds wheat meal, 1 pound Indian meal; mix well together, proceed in the same way as with wheat meal porridge, but boil for half an hour instead of twenty minutes. To make a good cup of tea. — One teaspoonful of tea to every half-pint of water ; have the teapot well rinsed in hot water; put in the tea, take a piece of paper and close the spout, set the teapot near the fire, but not so near as to burn, for ten minutes ; have the water boiling and add ; do not let it stand longer than six minutes after adding the water. Remove the paper from the spout and you will find you have a cup of tea with all the aroma in it. Sugar and cream to taste. Be sure not to allow the water to boil too long. It is best taken when it first comes through the boil. COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN's WIVES. 11 Coffee. — One teaspoonful of coffee to each breakfast cup. An earthenware pot is best ; have it very clean and hot. Put in the coffee, close the spout to keep in all the aroma, let it stand at the fire, not too near, for ten minutes ; when the water boils, put it into the pot and cover close. Do not boil your coffee, but see that your lid is very close, so that all the fine flavor is preserved. How to boil eggs. — Put 1 pint of water in a small pan; let it boil; put in the egg; if small, three minutes will set it; if large, four minutes. When boiling several eggs see that they are as nearly as possible the same size. Ten minutes is required to boil an egg hard. Poached eggs. — Put 1 pint of water in a small pan, with half a teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar ; let it boil ; break the egg carefully into the pan, and simmer for four minutes. Take it out carefully and serve on toast. French toast. — Break and beat an egg well, add a pinch of salt and one gill of milk, dip some neat slices of bread in on both sides. Have your frying-pan with some hot dripping ready, then fry the bread a light brown. This is good with stewed rhubarb laid on the top. A nice breakfast. — One-fourth pound of old cheese, a teacupful of milk, two eggs, a pinch of salt, a pinch of pepper, a small bit of butter. Cut the cheese very thin, put it into a frying-pan with half of the milk, butter, pepper and salt. Stir until the cheese is melted, then add the eggs, well beaten, with the rest of the milk. Cook for one minute and spread on hot toast. Eggs stewed with cheese. — One egg for each person. Let them set in a frying-pan, remove them to a plate. Cut some cheese very thin; put it on the top of the eggs, with salt and pepper to taste. Set before the fire or in the oven to swell, and serve hot. Ham and eggs. — Put your sliced ham on in a cold frying-pan, turn it two or three times, taking care not to let it burn. When sufficiently done lay the ham on a nice hot plate. Break the eggs into a cup, taking care not to break the yolks ; slip one at a time into the frying-pan and baste with the ham fat. Keep the eggs as round as possible, lift with a slice, and lay on the ham. Omelet (plain). — In making an omelet care, should be taken to have the pan quite hot and perfectly dry. Put into the frying-pan 1 ounce of lard, beat very gently (the lard must not get brown). The eggs are to be very lightly beaten, only long enough to mix them and no more. Break 4 eggs into a basin, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper ; mix, pour into a 12 COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN'S WIVES. hot pan, and keep mixing quickly, till they are delicately set. Turn in the edges, let it rest a moment to set, turn it over on a dish, and serve. Omelet. — Two eggs, 1 teacupful of milk, 1 tablespoonful of corn flour, 1 tablespoonful sugar, pinch of salt, teaspoonful essence vanilla. Put the yolks of the eggs in a basin and stir them till they are light. Add the milk to them, then add, gradually, to the corn flour and other ingredients in another basin ; stir till very smooth; beat the white of the eggs to a snow and add them very gently with the essence vanilla to the rest of the mixture. Have a hot frying-pan, put in a little lard and melt, pour in all the mix- ture, and hold it over a gentle fire for a quarter of an hour, till set and well risen ; brown the sap before the fire, or bake for a quarter of an hour in the oven. Colored eggs for Easter. — Eggs can be dyed a pretty color with the juice of a beet root, or the peel of onions boiled in the water; or, if you have a patch of fancy print, bind it round the egg and boil it, and it will leave the impression. Wash the eggs clean before boiling. Easter eggs should be boiled for ten minutes. Kedgeree. — One pound fish, one-fourth pound rice, 3 eggs, 1 ounce butter. Wash rice well, put on in boiling water, and boil till soft; boil the fish and take away all bones and skin and separate into flakes. Boil 3 eggs for ten minutes, then throw into cold water to prevent their turning black, then peel and cut fine. Drain all the water from the rice, put it on the fire to dry, add the butter, salt, pepper, fish and eggs (saving one of the yolks), let it all warm, then dish and grate the yolk of the egg over it. Pea soup and potatoes. — One pound split peas, 1 Jd ; vegetables, l^d.; one-fourth stone* potatoes, 1J<1; total, 4Jd Wash the peas, and leave them soak over night ; put them on with 1 gallon of the water in which they were soaked, and the onions cut fine ; boil for one hour and a half, add carrot and turnip and two potatoes, all grated ; boil for another half hour, then add a teaspoonful of powdered mint, and serve hot. To be taken with potatoes. Barley broth. — One pound mutton or beef bones, Id.; one-half pound barley, Id. ; one-half pound of peas, Id. ; cabbage, turnip, carrot, parsnip, leeks, parsley, and celery, Id; total, 4d. In most places an assorted lot of vegetables can be got for Id. or 2d., accord- ing to quantity. Nothing can be more nourishing or wholesome than broth. It * Note. — The stone equals 14 pounds avoirdupois. COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN'S WIVES. 13 is advisable to make sufficient for two days, as many think the second day's broth warmed up is the best. It can be made of beef or mutton. The neck of mutton makes very sweet broth, but some prefer a cut of boiling beef with marrow. Be sure to have a pot with a good fitting lid. Put on the meat with 2 gallons of water, barley, and peas (if peas are used, they must be soaked the night before), and boil for one hour, then add the cabbage, turnip, carrot, and parsnip, cut small, and part of the carrot grated. Boil very slowly with lid closed for half an hour, then add leeks, parsley, and celery; boil for another half-hour; in all, boil for two hours, and serve. Sheep's head broth. — Head and trotters, Qd; barley and peas, Id. ; mixed vegetables, l^d. ; total, 8Jd. Get head and trotters singed; have the head split, take out the brains, wash every part well ; pierce the eyes, and wash the skin well with the liquor that flows out; scape out the eye cavities with a knife, then put the head and trotters in a pail of clean water, with a little salt and soda ; let them steep all night ; take them out, and scrape them well ; put them in the pot with 1 gallon of water, a teacupful of peas, and three-fourths of a teacupful of barley, boil for three-quarters of an hour ; add half a turnip cut in slices, the other half with carrot, parsnip, and cabbage cut very small ; add leeks, celery, parsley cut small, and boil for another hour; dish the broth, and serve head and trotters with the slices of turnip for garnish. Sheep's head broth requires longer boiling than other broths. Fish soup. — Cod head, Id. ; vegetables (carrot, onion and parsley), l^d.; one-half pound rice, 0|d.; one-half stone potatoes, 2d.; total, 5d. Get a large cod head, wash it well ; put in on with cold water (1 gallon), and boil for an hour, then put it through a sieve or clean coarse cloth ; wash the rice well and add ; cut the onions very fine, and add ; grate the carrot, and boil very slowly with lid closed for one hour ; then add chopped parsley and all the fish taken from the head, with pepper and salt to taste. Serve hot with potatoes. A little milk will improve the soup. It is very like oyster soup. Mock kidney soup and potatoes. — Two pounds of liver, 6d.; vegetables (carrot, turnip, onion), Id.; one-half stone potatoes, 3d.; total, lOd Put on half of the liver with 1 gallon of water ; boil very slowly for an hour, then take it out, and grate it ; have the other half cut 14 COOKERY FOR WORKING-MEN'S WIVES. in nice, small pieces, and add ; grate the carrot and turnip, and one potato, but do not add the potato until fifteen minutes before you take the soup off the fire ; cut the onion very fine, and add it with the liver, carrot and turnip ; boil very slowly for one and one-half hours with lid close. Pepper and salt to taste, and serve hot with potatoes. Potato soup and fried beans. — One-fourth stone potatoes, \\d.; bone, Id.; vegetables, Id.; 1 pound haricot beans, l|