ALTA CALIFORNIA BOOKSTOR ALBANY. CALIFORNIA From the Library of ED GRABHORN at the Grabhorn Press BETEEN+THE*TIBES SKETCHES, TILES MD POEMS, INCLUDING H-U-N-G-R-Y L-R-N-D. BY W. S. WALKER. *flO PLACE Ufa riUtyE* LOS GATOS, CALIFORNIA, AY. S. AND GLENN WALKER, Printers. 1885. Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 18S5, BY W. S. WALKER, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, I). C (All Rights Reserved). Los GATOS, CAL., W. S. AND GLENN WALKER, Printers. H. A . SWANEY, Photographer, Los Gatos, Cal. PALMER & REY, Engravers, BOLTON & MUIRSON, Binders, San Francisco. San Jose. To MY FAMILY, who have been my compan- ions in travel, who have shared my joys and sor- rows, tli is ]>ook is respectfully dedicated by THE AUTHOR, BETWEEN THE TIDES. TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM SAN FKANCISCO TO SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL POINTS IN CALIFORNIA. For the following valuable table of reference, we are indebted to H. S. CROCKER & Co., of San Francisco, Publishers of the RAIL- ROAD GAZETTEER, and it can be relied upon as correct. ALAMEDA, Alameda county. 11 miles. AMADOR CITY, Amador county 154 miles. AUBURN, Placer county .126 miles. BIG TREES, Calaveras county 169 miles. BIG TREES, Santa Cruz county 75 miles. BIG TREES, Mariposa county 250 miles. CAMP CAPITOLA, Santa Cruz county 85 miles. CLOVERDALE, Sonoma county 84> miles. DONNER LAKE, Nevada county 197 miles. EUREKA, Humboldt county 216 miles. GEYSER SPRINGS, Sonoma county 100 miles. HEALDSBURG, Sonoma county 66> miles. HOTEL DE REDWOOD, Santa Cruz county 66 miles. HOTEL DEL MONTE, Monterey county 125 miles. HUMBOLDT BAY, Humboldt county 216 miles. LOS ANGELES, Los Angeles county 482 miles. LAKEPORT, Lake county 119 miles. M A RTINEZ, Contra Costa county 36 miles. M ARYSVILLE, Yuba county 142 miles. MONTEREY, Monterey county 125 miles. NAPA, Napa county 46 miles. OAKLAND, Alameda county 6 miles. PETALUMA, Sonoma county 36 miles. PLACERVILLE, Eldorado county 148 miles. RED BLUFF, Tehama county 200 miles. SACRAMENTO, Sacramento county 90 miles. SAN DIEGO, San Diego county 661 miles. SAN JOSE, Santa Clara county 47 miles. SANTA BARBARA, Santa Barbara county 288 miles. SANTA CRUZ, Santa Cruz county 81 miles. SANTA ROSA, Sonoma county 52 miles. STOCKTON, San Joaquin county 93 miles. TAHOE CITY (Lake Tahoe), Placer county 224 miles. YOSEMITE, Mariposa county 285 miles. BETWEEN THE TIDES. CONTENTS. PAGE. INTRODUCTORY 5 HUNGRY LAND 10 FROM ILLINOIS TO NEW YORK 12 FROM NEW YORK TO ASPINWALL 19 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA 29 FOOD FOR REFLECTION 36 THE STORY OF A MILLION 37 PILGRIMS ON THE TRAMP 47 TO MY OLD ARMY COMRADES 70 YUBA RIVER ONCE MORE 73 OUR REDWOOD CABIN 91 RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, AND THE BIG CAMP MEETING 93 LINES TO OLIVER WESCOTT 101 ADIEU TO CALIFORNIA 103 WE "ABOUT FACE" 105 MY FIRST NEW YEAR'S GREETING 112 BACK TO CALIFORNIA 115 RETROSPECTION 125 FROM CALIFORNIA TO MISSOURI 126 THE MARCH OF TIME 144 THE AUTHOR'S OPINION 146 SITTING BULL ON THE SITUATION 163 CALIFORNIA AND THE EAST 165 BETWEEN THE TIDES. RECOLLECTIONS OF SHILOH 167 MY OLD CANOE 175 CAPITAL VERSUS LABOR '. 177 OUT IN THE DARK 179 WHAT I KNOW ABOUT RAISING HOGS 181 TAXATION AND CONVICT LABOR 184 MY OLD E FLAT 187 DEATH OF MRS. JOHN BROWN 189 LINES TO "TOM BROWN" 192 CHRISTMAS CHIMES 194 MY FAVORITE SALUTATORY 196 RUNNING A NEUTRAL PAPER . 198 MEMORIAL ADDRESS 201 MY FOREIGN POLICY 203 WEEK DAY SERMON 205 ARMY REMINISCENCE 209 CENTENNIAL GREETING 214 FOURTH OF JULY IN AMERICA 217 A CHAPTER ON MOVING 219 CONCLUSION. ..241 INTRODUCTORY, Ix presenting this work to the public, I do not promise, nor do I expect to produce anything of an unusually brilliant nature, and will endeavor to confine myself to language with which I am ni->st familiar plain household words; and if my cllorts arc crowned with any good results, it will be gratifying to the author. In short, if I cause a moment of serious reflection to the general read- er, 01- create a good hearty laugh (even though it be at my misfortune), or persuade people (no matter where they live) to court contentment and let well enough alone then, kind reader, let me say that I have not lived entirely in vain. And also, if F can succeed in disposing of this entire edition for about one hundred per cent above its actual cost, and two hundred per cent above its actual worth, leaving the undersigned just about three- hundred j>er cent net profit, then my mis- sion as a Book 'writist' will he a < unplished. BETWEEN THE TIDKS. In 1880, while at Cloverdale, Gal, I published a small pamphlet, entitled "Glimpses of Hungry Land," and as the little book met with consider- able favor from the public; and upon the urgent solicitation of many friends, and also owing to having the little work copyrighted, I have con- cluded to include it in this my latest venture, and therefore offer the following explanation: Hungry-land may be considered a peculiar and homely word when used in connection with the title of a book perhaps it is ;-yet in this instance; Hungry-land figures as the home of the roving, discontented, dissatisfied and restless class of in- dividuals to be found in every portion of the civ- ili/ed world. Those individuals who are never contented, but alway restless, continually 'pull- ing up stakes' and moving around in search of something better, are always hungry. Their bod- ies, hearts, minds and pockets are hungry in a word, they spend their lives in what to them is a hungry land; and as I belong to that unfortunate class, I can truly say that I write from experi- ence; for I have been one of the many individu- als who are loth to remain long enough in any one place to properly enjoy -the blessings of this world. This life is largely made up of Memory and Hope both are dreams. HKTWKKN THE TIDES. 7 To a groat extent we are creatures of circum- stances, and as liable to change as the ever vary- ing climate of our country. While standing, as it were, knoc-doop amid the clover-fields of the present, how often we look forward to the gilded visions of the future, and quicken our steps and often go beyond our depth in the hurried effort to grasp the prize. Then again, in fancy, how often we retrace our steps and bask in the sunny haunts of our youth and sigli for the return of those halcyon days; or perhaps we go still farther back, groping our way over the beaten track of ages, and mourn that we lived not in earlier times, mid scenes that have long been festooned with the dust of dead centuries. Truly, how few of us really live in the only period wo can call our own the PRESENT! Imagination lends a charm to distance, and fer-off objects often lose their brightness upon a bear approach. We talk of days gone by when we were so happy and contented, when in reality were we to consult our old journals of every day life, we would discover the fact that wo were just as miserable then as now. In those bewitching hours of the past that we so love to refer to, we were doubtless looking back or forward just the same as we are to-day. I claim as a general rule, that people blessed with the light of civilization enjoy very little true happiness on this earth. S BETWEEN THE TIDE*. \Ye see individuals every day, who, to all exter- nal appearances should be h.appy people who live in ease and luxury, at whose door WANT, that cruel master never knocks; along whose pathway the cares and shadows of the world seldom or never come; yet even they go around with long faces, bemoaning their fate, murmuring, fret- ting, and declaring that everything is going- wrong. Verily, "such is Life." There was a time, yet fresh in my m e m o r y when the Far West looked to me m<>^ beautiful as I stood on the fertile prairies of Illinois, sur- rounded with everything to render me happy at home, in a State, of whose vast resources a World might well be proud; yet I grew discon- tented, and consequently unhappy. Of course \ was miserable. Everything seemed too common- place. Life w r as monotonous. The old home cir- cle lost its charms. From the friendly v o i c e s, whose genial influence had surrounded me from the sunny days of childhood to manhood's years. I turned away with impatient feelings. The cli- mate of old Illinois seemed too close and oppres- sive for me. I wanted fresh air; and I thought I could find it "out West," In the distance, with imagination's big teles- cope to aid me, I beheld the (Jolden Land, cloth- ed in robes of matchless beauty; her hills cover- ed with verdure the whole land he-decked with Kvx THE TIDK*. 9 tlowers of gorgeous line; with gold-lined ravines and silver-spangled ledges, whose ocean-washed and shell-strewn shore glistened and sparkled in the mellow sun-light of perpetual summer. Ev- ery vale seemed an el vsian; every mountain, dell, nook and valley, the ahode of true, romantic" and unalloyed happiness. Thus I gazed upon the Far West the fairy isle of my imagination. AV r . S. W. HUNGRY LAND. By the Rivers and the Oceans, By the Mountains and the Lakes ; Mid the regions of the North-land, And the tangled Southern "brakes;" From America's fertile borders, To her central belts of sand I have sought "a better country," But found instead the Hungry Land. On the broad high-ways of travel, In the workshops, fields and mines; In the cities, towns and hamlets, Where the sun of freedom shine; 1 : I have found a band of brothers, A discontented, roving band ; They are "men without a country," For they live in Hungry Land. They who pass their time in seeking For a road without a hill, Have within their souls an empty space, This world can never fill ; For, no matter where we go, We find them hand in hand: The discontented and the roving Dwellers in the Hungry Land. 11ET\VEEX THE TIDES. 11 For, no matter where your home is : ( )n tlie land or on the sea ; A toiler in a monarch's realm, Or with the noble free Whether in a peasant's cottage, Or with wealth at yonr command, If contentment dwells not in you, Yon live in Hungry Land. lint there is a "Better .Country, Jn a clime beyond the Sun, Where earth's trumpcrs may find shelter When the toils of life are done ; Where their feet will never weary, As they tread the golden sand : Jt's the country "over yonder," Beyond the Hungry Land. FROM ILLINOIS TO NEW YORK. MY mind was made up. I had fully determin- ed to "go West." My valise was packed, and the time for my departure drew near. On the morning of April 7th, 1864, a crowd of cherished relatives and kind friends assembled at my old home in Mason City, Illinois, hid me "Uood-by and Farewell," and a few moments la- ter I was "off for California." Since that time, more than twenty years have passed away, hut the recollections of that soft Spring morning, the last good-by and hand-shake with loved friends, many of whom have long since been laid away beneath the sod the long lingering look, as through blinding tears, I caught the last glimpse of my old home and the loved group, ere all faded from my sight, and the great wide world was before me still linger fresh in my memory. The first day T went as far as Peoria, distant 10 miles, which for lack of railroad, I made the journey on a neighbor's wagon-. BETWEEN THE TIDES. 13 At IVoriu I purchased a ticket for New York. E wished to go over the Michigan Central Rail- road via. Suspension H ridge, and in asking for a ticket I committed an innocent blunder by call- ing for one to New York via. ti.ctcnsioii. Bridge! The agent, fortunately happened to be out of the extended kind, but promptly furnished me with the proper pasteboard. The next morning 1 arrived in Chicago, but the train stopped here only long enough to admit of a hurried break- fast, and we were off again; and all that day, as we hurried along, I sat at a car window, gazing at the fertile fields, bustling towns and grand old forests that form the characteristic features of Michigan, until the shades of evening found us at the beautiful city of Detroit. Here we went on board a splendid ferry-boat, and were invited to 'sit right down to supper.' We were told by a pompous individual that it would be "policy to sit right down." a< we would "have t = pay coin for hash over in Canada." The majority of the passengers (including the author) paid our little fifty cent green-back and then we "sat right down," ami just about the time we got ready t > call for coffee the boat reached the ( 'anada shore and an old sinner yelled in fiendish tones: "All aboard for Niagara." ( )f course we scrambled oft' the boat and hurried to the train, leaving the little supper farce on the boat to lie played over 14 BETWEEN THE TIDE.-. again on the next load of passengers; and judge of our surprise when at the next station the gong sounded and as fine a looking man as I ever set eyes on sang out: "Twenty minutes for surjper and Greenbacks taken at par." In order to sat- isfy the cravings of my "Department of the In- terior," I squandered another fifty-cent piece, All that night we rolled through Canada* but owing to the darkness and the lacerated state of my feelings over the Detroit ferry-boat supper, I was unable to form an intelligent opinion of the country, however, "You can see it on the map." While stopping for a few minutes at a station (just before daylight), we caught the sound of a dull, heavy roar in the distance; and a moment 's reflection told us that we were Hearing Niagara! And, as the first streaks of sun-light gilded the Eastern horizon, the train slowed up at the end of Suspension Bridge on the Canada side, and we were in plain view and hearing of the great Cataract! I will not attempt to describe the mag- nificent grandeur of the scene, for a host of wri- ters, in comparison to whom, in regard to desR criptive talent, I am as a fire-fly to a sheet of lightning. h:uv fallen far short of the reality. It will suffice to sav: The World has thousand-; of Water-tails, many Cascades, and a few Tata- ru<-ts but the World has bur ONF. XIACtARA! THI-: TIDES. 15 At this great watering place I tarried for an entire day, vainly trying to drink in the wonder- ful beauty of the scene; but the longer I remain- ed and the more I looked, the more I realized my inability to grasp the full measure of its fas- cinating power. In all my wanderings nothing lias impressed me so forcibly or filled my mind with a sense of its awe-inspiring sublimity as did the great Falls of Niagara. Leaving the Falls a little before dark, we were soon travei-sing the great state of New York, and in the morning arrived at Albany, where after a short stop for breakfast, we were once more on our way, winding along the storied shores of the noble Hudson river. It was Sunday, and al- though the day was stormy, raining and snowing alternately, the journey was highly enjoyed, the picturesque scenery adorning the banks of this magnificent river, forming a continuous panor- ama of rare beauty, unrivaled on this continent. Although West Point lay upon the opposite side of the river, we got a pretty good view of the fa- mous old town, so memorably associated with the early history of our country. ft will here be in order to state, that between IVoria and New York. I fell in with seven men who were enroute for California. Some were go- ing for health, some for wealth and some for cli- mate all hoping and expecting to better their 1(3 BETWEEN THE TIDE . condition. For convenience sake, I will name them Jones, Brown, Jenkins and Ridley, of Ill- inois; Tripp and (ierman, of Canada, and Olsen, a Norwegian sailor. We were a party of eight in- dividuals whose genevel ideas seemed to run in the same direction. While on the cars we had formed a general acquaintance, and solemnly de- clared that come what would in the future, we would travel together, put up at the same- hotel, work together, divide our wages equally, marry the same woman, and if necessary die together! Of course we all stuck to the agreement, (hut it is quite probable that we did nothing of the kind). About four o'clock on the evening of the llth, we reached New York City, which, by the wav, I found to be a little the biggest institution in the shape 'of a town that 1 had ever been in, to the best of my recollection. As might have been expected, the vast crowd at the depot seemed very glad and also greatly surprized to see us especially on Sunday (and it a raining, too). It did seem as if all creation wanted us to stay all night with them; but as there were not enough of us to go around, and give every "runner" a show, we declined many pressing invitations; and finally, by what now seems to me a miraculous streak of luck, we stum- bled into French's Hotel. (I will here say that at that time, Mr. French appeared to be as fine BETWEEN THE TIDES. 17 a man as one might 'jump up', in any country and evidently knew how to keep hotel). On the morning after our arrival in the City, while standing on the steps in front of the hotel, Jenkins, (of Illinois') loaned a mild-eyed stranger one hundred dollars "just for an hour or so un- til the hank opened." Brother Jenkins and the man with the mild eye never met again in this ci)ld world. An hour or so after this sad occurrence, fearing lest other similar calamities might befall more or less of our number, we concluded that it would be policy to go at once and secure our tickets; for business is business, you know; in fact, business is one thing and loaning money to a stranger on a short acquaintance is another thing. Repairing to the office of the California Mail Steamship Line, we found the berths all taken, so we then concluded to wait fora ship of "Rob- erts' Opposition Line," which was advertised to leave on the jillrd, and as we were compelled to n-mam so long in the great metropolis, in order t<> cmiiomi/c, we purchased t ickets for the 'Steer- (for particulars see Webster's unabridged). During OUT sojourn in New York, we endeavor- ed to "take in" every place of interest: and it is needles^ to add that in nine cases out of ten, it was that crowd of eight inquiring souls that were taken in. We traversed Broadway from one end 18 . BETWEEN THE TIDES. to the other, also a great many other ways not quite so broad. We visited Brooklyn, Jersey Ci- ty, Hobokin, Blackwell's Island, the Navy Yard, Central Park, Barnum's Museum, and many oth- er points of interest; and finally, when the morn- ing of the 23rd came around, we settled our ho- tel "williams," shouldered our "traps" and went on board the old Steam-ship, "Illinois" bound for Aspinwall. "Our Ship is ready, and the wind is fair I'm bound fpr the sea, Mary Ann." A r A'ir VORK TO At noon the ship's cannon was fired, and a few minutes later the jjTcut paddle- be^an to revolve and we were drifting from the shores of America. There were nearly fifteen hundred passengers on hoard, about six hundred Irish and the bal- ance from almost every other portion of the civ- ilized world. Every available part of the ship was crowded with humanity, clothed in almost every imaginable garb. Now, reader, come and cross the biji water with me. Let us sit down in the fore-castle and journali/e a little as we steam for the Isthmus. . The waters widen around our ship! "A'.Urii. ailif'.i, u. y nuli\v sln.ic Fades over the waters hluc." The loved hind of our nativity ^rows dim in the dislanci the shore is out of sin, but upon a nearer approach it presents bold shores, the face of the country appearing rather mountainous, and is interspersed with hills and valleys dotted with beautiful groves. It was here that Dr. Kane breathed out the last hours of a useful life. After his near association with the BKTNVKKX THE TIDES. 21 grim monster during two dark winters amid the ice-fields of the Polar regions, it is cheering to know that the .brave explorer was at last permit- ted to lie down and sleep his last sleep in the "Queen of Isles," the spot coveted by all nations peerless Cuba: where the fragrance of rare spi- ces and bright flowers fill the air with sweet perfume. MAY 3. There is some prospect of reaching the Isthmus to-night. But little air is stirring and the weather is oppressively warm. Our ship represents a full-fledged menagerie. Human na- ture is here in all its varied forms, and what P. T. Barnum was doing when we left New York, is indeed a mystery. He missed an opportunity for securing a rare collection that may never oc- cur again. MAY 4. We arrived at Aspinwall last night about midnight, and tins morning I went up <>n deck and got my first view of the "deathly Isth- mus." During our voyage to this place, owing to the crowded vessel, the passengers generally, con- sidcred that they had been very badly treated by the ship's company, in regard to the scanty sup- ply of water, poor rations. CYC. These complaints were especially loud in the steerage department; and about fifteen committees had been organi- zed to lav our common irrievances before the 2-2 BETWEEN THE TIDES. American Consul upon our arrival at Aspinwall. It was understood that just as soon as the com- plaint was made, the Consul would immediately put the ship's officers in irons and give even- passenger about ten dollars to patch up their outraged feelings. Day after day these special committees wended their way to the residence of the Consul, and day after day that official put them off promising to attend to the matter soon as he could "get to it." It is needless to say that the dear old Consul never got there. The natives of both sexes come in crowds to the wharf with baskets of their own peculiar fash- ioning, laden with tempting fruit, sea shells, etc. The principal production of industry at this place, and apparently the chief article for sale at the mercantile establishments appears to be Ja- maica Rum, and I regret to say that about one- third of our male passengers, in their frequent and continued wrestling with this powerful ad- versary, became what may very appropriately be termed "total wrecks." Many of the natives go around dressed decid- edly "seldom," and live chiefly upon the natural products of the country. They lead an indolent life, and spend much of their time laying in the shade, swinging in hammocks and dancing; and to all appearances enjoy life far better than more civilized races. They have nothing to worry /heir BETWEEN THE TIDES. 23 minds about, for upon every hand they see a bountiful harvest, spread out by the lavish hand of Nature. What's the use of working in a land like this? If the climate was healthy for the white race it could easily be converted into an earthly paradise; but fierce disease and threat- ening death keep back the wheels of civilization. \Yo boarded the train and left Aspinwall on the (Hh. The country across the Isthmus, a dis- tance of forty-six miles, as 1 viewed it from the <-ar window, seemed to ho a mixture of the beau- tiful, wonderful, grand, gloomy and peculiar; the face of the country growing much higher as we approach 1'anama. We passed several vil- lages along the way, peopled entirely by natives. Their houses are built of a kind of bamboo, cane and palm, neatly thatched, and are all well ven- tilated. Before leaving Aspinwall, .lonos and I laid in half a gallon of Jamaica rum to koop the mos- quitoes from biting us. ) mosquitoes grow unusu- 24 BETWEEN THE TIDES. ally large, and are very vicious in Central Amer- ica), and as snakes in this country also grow to an enormous size and are exceedingly venomous, Ridley and Brown laid in half a gallon of Jam- aica's "boss wrestler" to keep off the snakes. It is needless to add that during the remainder of the journey we were not molested, either by mosqui- toes or snakes. We arrived at Panama in the afternoon, and found the connecting steamer, "Moses Taylor," waiting for us; and such a time as we had get- ting on board simply beggars description. We had to go out quite a distance in small boats and climb up to the decks on a ladder. Every body wanted to go first (they were afraid of getting left, and I am sorry we wasn't). There was push- ing, jamming, crowding, swearing, and occasion- ally fighting; and it was all the ship's officers could do to keep the boats from being swamped by the impatient crowd. That crowd was compo- sed of people from nearly every civilized coun- try from nearly every station in life civilized people ! They knew we were all going knew the ship was large enough to carry all of us, and al- so knew it would wait for us. It was then, and is yet my opinion, that rum was at the bottom of all this trouble. The improper use of intoxica- ting liquors certainly destroys all that is good and noble in the heart of man (or woman either), BETWEEN THE TIDES. 25 or any other man, or any of his relatives; but for all this, I suppose strong drink will be bought, sold and drank; and men will crowd, push, quar- rel and fight just as long as as long as snakes and mosquitoes threaten to bite travelers. MAY 11. This morning a little before day- light the 'Moses Taylor' got up steam and 'stood' for San Francisco. The land has once more fa- ded from our sight, and the" blue waters of the Pacific ocean form the horizon on every side. Dinner is under way, and the order of the hour seems to be to pitch in, shove back the women and children, overturn the coffee pots and curse the steward if he is handy. MAY 12. Last night we boys went below to see if we could find our bunks; after some trou- ble we found our sleeping apartment located be- tween the engine room and the butcher stalls; of course, we wakened up considerably did not feel sleepy anyhow, so up we came and turned in on deck in the open air and went to sleep; but during the night the wind arose, the sea invw boisterous and we were awakened by the angry dashing of the waves, and soon a drenching rain came pouring down. The heavens were ablaze with lightning. It was "midnight on the ocean.' I yet remember, as I leaned over the railing, how I shrank back horrified, as I beheld the white- crested waves rolling up within a few feet of me, 26 BETWEEN THE TIDES. splashing the water in my face. The roar of the waters, the groaning of the vessel, the crashing of the thunder, and the spectral-like watch in the forecastle (seen by the lightning's glare), stri- king the hells for the midnight hour, all had an effect upon the author. MAY 13. One of our passengers died last night, a young man who was on the road to Oregon with his newly married wife. It is a sad case. they are lowering the body over the side of the ship, and I can hear the Chaplain reading: "I am the Resurrection and the Life." It seems a fear- ful thing to be buried at sea. MAY 18. In sight of the coast of Mexico. The temperature is getting cooler. This is our seventh day on the Pacific; and the hours drag slowly by. To the West, far out, blue billows roll, As onward swift we go, While to the East, in grandeur rise The cliffs of Mexico. The mountains dark and grim loom up ; Even to the clouds they reach, While Cocoa groves in quiet, rest Along the sandy beach. Tehuantepec's broad gulf we've passed The sun is sinking low, And in the gathering darkness, fades The coast of Mexico. MAY 20. This is the anniversary of my birth- day, but I have been too badly frightened during the past few days to tell exactly how old I am ; however I am positive that I have aged THE TIDES. 27 erably since I left home. The evening is'beautiful, ami to use the words of a somewhat smarter man than I am: "the sun is going down in a halo of glory." (but I can't help that). Sun-set on the ocean! What is more glorious? What fills the mind with more impressive emo- tions? I know what fills my mind with more thrilling emotions than seeing the sun set on the ocean. It is the thought that I may not have the privilege of seeing it rise in the morning! MAY 23. In sight of Lower California. The head-lands of cape St. Lucas rise in the distance; saw several whales to-day. Lower California pre- sents a desolate appearance barren hills and desolate wastes. (If "my girl" ever presents as desolate a waist as lower California, I shall nev- er attempt to surround her). M AY 25. We are nearing California! We pass- ed Monterey about noon. The sailors are getting the cables ready and putting the ship in order. In the distance I can see the ever-green shores of the happy land. Horses, cattle and sheep are gra- zing on the grassy slopes, and "I long to be there too." ( )ur grand army of passengers all seem happy at the prospect of soon being on shore. The decks arc crowded with men, women and children en- miirh people to till up a small town. 28 BETWEEN THE TIDES. Jottings by the way, on the road to California, will soon be laid aside. Yonder is the Golden Gate! Up goes my old hat as the city heaves in view! The sun is setting, and we are passing in- to the harbor of San Francisco. I thank the Giver of all good that I have esca- ped the dangers of the deep and been permitted to witness the sun go down, from the shores of the Pacific ocean. To our noble Ship, "Moses Taylor," I touch my hat. To ocean life, a long farewell. California: I stand upon your golden shore. Your white sands glisten beneath my feet, and your blue sky, studded with brilliant stars, spread out over my head ! THE TIDES. 21 grim monster during two dark winters amid the i<-e-lields of the Polar regions, it is cheering to know that the brave explorer was at last permit- ted to lie down and sleep his last sleep in the "(^ueen of Isles," the spot coveted hy all nations peerless Cuba: where the fragrance of rare spi- ces and bright flowers fill the air with sweet perfume. MAY 3. There is some prospect of reaching the Isthmus to-night. But little air is stirring and the weather is oppressively warm. Our ship represents a full-fledged menagerie. Human na- ture is here in all its varied forms, and what P. T. Barnum was doing when we left New York, is indeed a mystery. He missed an opportunity for securing a rare collection that may never oc- cur again. MAY 4. We arrived at Aspinwall last night about midnight, and this morning I went up on deck and got my first view of the "deathly .Isth- mus." During our voyage to this place, owing to the crowded vessel, the passengers generally, con- sidered that they had been very badly treated by the ship's company, in regard to the scanty sup- ply of water, poor rations, f my journey to this country. To this far-off western country, To the land of California. How I started off that morning On that mild and bright Spring morning! How I heard the wild birds singing, How 1 watched the village fading Fading nut so far behind me; Heard the hum of distant voices, Die upon my ear so sadly, How I met with other travelers Travelers bound lor California; 38 BETWEEN THE TIDES. How we started, and kept on going, Going on our distant journey, To the pleasant land of sunshine To the land of California. How we reached the bustling city, The dashing city on the lake-shore The giant city of Chicago; How we tried to eat our -breakfast, Tried to throw ourselves outside it, Tried it hard, but could not do it, Because the cars were in a hurry; How we jumped on board so quickly, And started on for California. How we reached Detroit at sun-set Reached there, oh, so very hungry; How we went on board the ferry, How we tried to get our supper, How we sat down to the table, How we paid our money for it, How we paid a half a dollar, Just to get a cup of coffee ; How we sat and kept a looking Looking for that cup of coffee, Looked and looked, yet could not see it. How we crossed the Detroit river, Into Canada how we crossed o'er, Where they said the cars were waiting. Waiting for us hungry people; How we got on board and started, On our journey, oh so sleepy, On our journey, oh, so hungry On the road to California. BETWEEN THE TIDES. 39 But it soon set in to raining, Raining hard and raining steady Steady 'cause it kept on raining. Thus the night wore on so dreary, Sometimes we sang and oft-times nodded, Nodded at the folks all 'round us, And they, to keep the thing a going, Nodded hack, all through politeness. But we found 'twould soon be morning, Found that day-light was approaching, Found that we were nearing somewhere, Found the cars were going slower. Heard the locomotive whistle, Then it was we heard a roaring, Heard a sound like distant thunder, Like the roar of mighty waters, Like a coming storm we heard it; Then the truth burst in upon us We were nearing Niagara The mighty Falls of Niagara! Soon we 'gan to cross the river, On the wire bridge, Suspension, Stretched across the rushing torrent; Then it was 1 saw the \vatei>. Pouring ever Niagara. Saw the spray rise up so grandly Even to the clouds it rose up, Forming bows of many colors And the noise oh, it was deafening! As I write, iiiethinks 1 hear it: Hear the roar, the deafening thunder, Of the mighty Niagara. Oh! I wish that I could tell you, 40 -BETWEEN THE TIDES. Tell you everything I thought of, Tell you what my mind was filled with, Tell you how my heart it rose up Rose up 'til I could not say it; I could tell you all about it, If I was in Mason City All about our journey onward, All about the lovely scenery, .That we saw upon our journey, How we crossed o'er running streamlets, How we ran through gloomy tunnels. Then along the edge of hill-tops. How we traveled on for hours; Along the banks of Hudson river, When we arrived in New York Citv. Twas on a rainy Sunday evening; And the folks there did not know us! Did not know us, 'cause we'd grown so. Because we came so unexpected. For three weeks we there did tarry. Tarried there in New York City, Stayed there 'til our ship was ready, Then we got on board and started Started on our ocean voyage; Soon the river 'gan to widen, Began to widen into ocean. Then our hearts grew sad within us, When we saw the shores receding, When we saw the city fading - Fading farther in the distance- Saw the waters widen 'round us. Saw the great big waves dash by us, And knew thev were not from the river, BETWEEN THE TIDES. 41 Knew that we were on the waters Of the broad Atlantic ocean. I could tell of strange proceedings That took place upon the steamer, And what I saw upon the voyage, But I know 'twould tire your patience. So I will hurry on the journey. Hurry over the Atlantic, Hurry by the lovely islands, Hurry o'er the "deathly Isthmus," Where the birds of brilliant plumage There do sing their songs so sweetly; Where the Palm trees rise so graceful; Where Cocoa nuts and ripe Bananas Hang in clusters all around you; Where the natives dress so oddly, Where they sing and dance so wildly, Where the monkeys "cut such capers" As I'm certain would surprise you. I will not attempt to tell you, Of our second ocean voyage, On Pacific's mighty billows; Until we got to San Francisco To the end of our long journey, To the land of California. But, methinks I hear you asking Asking me to stop and tell you How I like this western country What I think of California! I wilL answer, I will tell you, Tell you all I know about it, Tell you why most people come here, Why they leave their homes behind them, \Vhv thev come to California. BETWEEN THE TIDES. Many come with expectations, Come with mighty expectations. Come to get rich, oh, so quickly, Come to get rich, so immensely Come to get rich, in a hui;ry, Come to get the "almighty dollar." Many come and go to mining Digging for the precious metal, Labor hard, and live much harder Almost live on what's called nothing, All for the "almighty dollar;" And many there are who do not find it, Hunt for years and do not find it, Dig and look, but cannot "see it;" Then they get so disappointed Get so awfully discouraged, Because they cannot find the dollar, The great big California dollar; The dollar they so oft have heard of, The dollar they so oft have dreamed of, The dollar which they all expected! The dollar that they sold their farms for, The dollar that is always brightest When seen at the greatest distance; The dollar that beats all creation, The dollar that defies description, The dollar of hallucination The dollar of imagination ! Very brightly shines that dollar, When you see it from afar off; But the nearer you approach it: Its great proportions 'gin to lessen; BETWEEN THE TIDES. 43 Then your heart it sinks within you, Then you begin to get so home-sick, Begin to think you've acted foolish, Begin to wish you had not started, Begin to wish you was 'most nowhere, Begin to smell the wolf, "starvation" The gaunt and hungry wolf, "starvation." You can hear him growl behind you, You can hear him bark before you, You can hear him whine beside you See him walk in circles 'round you Feel that soon he'll be upon you, If you do not find the dollar; But the dollar begins to lessen, Begins to lose its great proportions, About the time you get close to it; Thus it is with many miners, In the land of California. Then they begin to grow most reckless, Begin to curse the "golden country," Begin to wish they all had perished, < )n the road to California! Then begins their life of roving 1 Coving through the mountain gulches, Roving through the gloomy canyons, In search for the "almighty dollar;" J'>ut some there are who have been lucky, In their searches for the treasure; But this I say: (for Truth is mighty), ( )f all the mighty emigration That have rushed to California: They who came from every nation: 44 BETWEEN THE TIDES. From the sunny dales of England, From fair Scotland's hills of heather, From the vineyards of the Frenchmen, From the Italian's land so lovely, From the mighty walls of China, From the gold-fields of Australia, From the islands of the ocean, From every State in our old Union, From the snow-clad Russian Empire, From every hill and plain and valley, From every city, town and hamlet (For all are here in California): Few there are that ever find it Ever find just what they came for, In the land of California! There is many a sad, sad story, Many a story of the starting, Many a story of the coming, Many a broken-hearted story, Many a wretched miner's story, Many a story that would grieve you, Many a story that would pain you Pain you at its sad recital; Stories started, wrote and finishefl, By the trip to California! But methinks I hear you asking, What about this matchless climate? I will answer. I will tell you Tell you all I know about it. There is much that's very pleasant, In the Summer, Spring and Autumn; For the sun it shines out brightly, For eight months it shines out brightly, BETWEEN THE TIDES. 45 And the breezes blow so softly, From the great Pacific ocean ; Then comes on the rainy season, Sometimes raining 'most all winter, Sometimes raining, sometimes ceasing, Ceasing only to renew it, Through the California winter. Some say people never die here, Never die, but live forever; But I say, they are mistaken, For 'tis here the same as elsewhere. People, they get sick and die here, Die because they cannot help it, Die, and start off on that journey, On that dark, uncertain journey, To that land beyond the river, To the land of the "Hereafter." They leave this land of sunny climate, T^eave this land of lovely valleys, Leave the grand old mountain ranges, Leave this land so full of beauty Leave the new-found paying diggings, Look no more for gold and silver, No more for the "almighty dollar," Look their last on all things earthly, Leave all behind and in the leaving I^eave the land of California! Such is Life, as I have found it; Such is Life, this wide world over; Life is short, and Death is certain, On the land or on the ocean And 'tis the same in California. 4(> BETWEEN THE TIDES. Brothers, my task is almost finished, My story is almost completed. I pray that some day I may meet you Meet you far beyond the mountains, Far beyond the sandy deserts, Far beyond the big Platte river, Far beyond the yellow waters Of the mighty Mississippi; In the loved land of my boy-hood, In the land of youth's sweet spring-time, In the land of golden memories Of fond and cherished recollections There is where I hope to meet you. Will you there, await my coming, With loving hearts, await my coming, When I bid good-bye to mining, Good-bye to this Western country A long good-bye to California? PILGRIMS ON THE TRAMP. 1 THE HIDDEN QUARTZ LEDGE ON YUBA RIVER. THE Autumn of 1864 found me once more in the wood chopping business, this time, near the old town of Sebastopol, Sonoma county. In the meantime I had formed the acquaintance of a blacksmith named Reed, and he and I resolved to "stick together." At the time my story opens, we were both doing very well, considering our respective avocations: each one laying up his little dollar-and-a-half every now and then yet, like the average specimens of advanced civiliza- tion, we both felt quite sure that we could do a great deal better "somewhere else," and we were contemplating a trip to pastures new and fields more green; In short, we informed our friends that it was our intention to hunt a better climate and more money. We met one evening in the village shoe shop, to decide the question as to where we should go and when we should start. Arizona, New Mexico and Montana were talk- ed of; but Reed had his head set for the old mines 48 BETWEEN THE TIDES. of California. He knew there was money there; he had been there in '52, made a lucky "strike" and then struck for home, bought a farm in Iowa and settled down; but visions of old haunted his brain, and unsettled him, and here he was again in California. After a heated discussion regard- ing the, different points, we finally agreed to let luck point out our road to fortune, which now lay between Arizona and the old mines of California. Into Reed's hat went three Nevada "quarters" "Give her a shake, Reed," said I. Up came Arizona. "Try it again, old man." This time it was in Reed's favor. "Hurrah for the old mines, there is money there," shouted Reed, greatly ex- cited. The last shake however, favored Arizona, and that point was settled. "Hurrah for Arizona!" we both shouted; "Lot the Apaches and Commanches sound their war whoop; Reed arid the wood-cutter are coming down among you, and women, children and ve- ry old men had better get out of the way." AVe began at once to get ready for the train]), in a leisurely sort of way, the greater portion of two days being consumed in packing our valises, the contents of which, all told, would not have footed up a cash value of more than seven dol- lars; and then we bid good-bye to everything in the shape of sympathetic human nature in that neighborhood, and departed for San Francisco. BETWEEN THE TIDES. 49 That -was in the early part of November and we thought we could reach the gold fields before the rainy season commenced. While on our way to San Francisco, on the steamer we met a Sonoma county ranchman nam- ed . I ones, whom we knew to be one of the wealth- iest men in the county. We told him we were en route for Arizona; but he had no faith in the lower country, but said he could put us on the track of something better in the old mines of Cal- ifornia. He told us of a certain bar on the North Fork of Yuba river, where himself and a partner had kept a boarding house and a trading store in '49, dealing out provisions, etc., to the miners of that region; and one day, while at that place, he and his partner were putting up a new boarding tent, and digging down the river bank to make it level they discovered a decomposed quartz lr