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All kinds of tickets for railroads and places of amusement. Coupon books for all purposes. Ticket cases. CHICAGO 536 S. Clark Street NEW YORK 42 E. 22d Street Copyright, E. H. Harriman Beaver Totem, Deserted Indian Village, Alaska I GOING trip includes stopovers at Banff, Lake Louise and Glacier, in the Canadian Rockies, as well as sightseeing in Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle. The trip from Vancouver to Skagway, Alaska, will be made on the palatial Steamers of the Canadian-Alaska Lines, taking the inside route which winds itself around through hundreds of beautiful islands alongside shore lines of immense virgin forests, precipitous cliffs, towering mountains, tremendous glaciers as far as the eye can reach, and oftentimes passing through floating icebergs, which have broken off from the glacier along the shore, and fell crashing into the ocean. The trip by rail from Skagway to White Horse is made over the famous White Pass and Yukon Route, from there on by boat down the Yukon River to Dawson with a visit to the Klondike Gold Fields, returning to Skagway and Vancouver over the same route. The Homeward trip from Seattle includes Ml. Ranier Nat'l Park. Port- land and Columbia Highway and five days in Glacier Nat'l Park. ( For those who desire, the Yellowstone trip may be substituted for Glacier Nat'l Park for the same price). The opening of the new railroad operating between Anchorage and Fairbanks makes possible a still more delightful tour of Alaska with the usual comforts of the older route. Proceeding from Seattle over what is known as the Western route to Seward, the trip from Seward to Anchorage may be made direct by rail or by water via Cook Inlet. From Anchorage to Fairbanks over the recently completed rail- road passing near the entrance of Mt. McKinley National Park. Mt. McKinley National Park offers to the tourist scenery of unusual picturesque value and in this vicinity the hunter of big game will find the forests abounding with a splendid variety. It is a fisherman's paradise as the streams and lakes abound in game fish. 16 to 90 days $400.00 up All Expenses included INDEPENDENT OR CONDUCTED TOURS ANYWHERE ANY TIME THE T & S TOURS COMPANY "TRAVEL ARCHITECTS " N. L. TOWLE, President 103 W. Jackson Boulevard, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS Telephone Harrison 3559-3566-3567 150 Fifth Ave., NEW YORK CITY RAND M C NALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON FOR TOURISTS, INVESTORS, HOMESEEKERS AND SPORTSMEN WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS Price $2.50 RAND M9NALLY & COMPANY NEW YORK CHICAGO Copyright, 1922, by RAND MCNALLY & COMPANY MADE IN U. 8. A. 1? NOTE In the compilation of this guide, the editor has been ably assisted by MR. STEPHEN R. L. FOSTER During fifteen years "inside," Mr. Foster has explored, trapped, and kodaked widely. He has served as game and fur warden under the Department of the Interior, assisted materially in the location and construction of military telegraph lines, and acted as guide to important scientific expeditions; thereby acquiring an unusual intimacy with the various towns, lines of travel by railroads, over trails and on the great rivers. The beautiful illustrations and text extracts from the copyright report of the Harriman Alaska Expedition "Alaska" are used by permission of Mrs. Edward H. Harriman to whom we extend our grateful acknowledgment. We are also indebted to the Passenger Depart- ment of the White Pass & Yukon Route and to Mr. J. L. McPherson, manager, Alaska Bureau, Seattle Chamber of Commerce, for their cordial co-operation and assistance. Statistics covering products, commerce, etc., are from latest official reports of U. S. Gov- ernment, territorial, commercial, and publicity bureaus. RAND M9NALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON CONTENTS Principal Population Centers . . viii Hours of Daylight, etc x Alaska Localisms : . xii Geography I History 6 Newspapers and Publications. . . 18 Banks 18 Telegraph , Telephone and Radio Service ' 20 Commerce 21 Products 22 Commercial Bodies 22 Resources 23 Advice to Homesteaders 43 Fur Seals 46 Fisheries 46 Mining Laws and Regulations. 51 Mineral Production 51 Location of Principal Mining Centers 60 Forests 65 Reindeer m 68 Game Regulations 71 Wild Game Animals 75 Game in Mount McKinley v Region 77 'McKinley National Park 81 Wild Game Birds.. . 82 Wild Flowers 83 The Alaska Dog Team 84 Suggestions for Sportsmen 90 Roadhouses 96 Public Schools 97 Puget Sound to Point Barrow . . 98 Copper River & Northwestern Ry 118 Richardson Highway 118 U. S. Government Railroad. . . .123 Bedarkas 125 ,Katmai National Monument. . . 127 The Seal Islands 130 The Seals 131 ThevKashima 134 The Midnight Sun 140 Eskimo Clothing 140 Skagway to St. Michael 143 Down the Yukon 145 Transportation 161 Baggage 164 Local Boat Service 165 Distances from Seattle 167 Railroad Routes Mileage ... .167 River Routes Mileage 171 Mileage from Dawson 172 Mileage, Principal Summer and Winter Roads and Trails. ... 1/3 481589 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON PRINCIPAL POPULATION CENTERS OF ALASKA 1920 CENSUS Pop. Afognak* + f ................ 308 Akiatosoak If ................ 106 Akutan + tp ................ 66 Amalga-j-f P ................ (100) Anchorage* + tJXA.. .1856 Andreaf sky + fRp ........... Angoon^[ ................... 114 AniakRp ................... Anvik + fRp ............... 140 Baranoff p .................. Barrow* H-fR ............. ... 322 Bayview* ................... 342 Belhofski^f ................. 129 Berry Rp ................... Bethel*+fR ................ 221 Candle*R .................. 91 Chatanika*R ............... Chatham + fp ............... Chichagof * + f ............... 172 (100) Chickaloonfp .......... Chicken + fRp .............. Chignik* + f ............... 85 ChisanafRp ................ 148 (2) Chitina*} ............... 171 Chivokok^f ................. 119 Chogiung^f ................. 182 Chomly* + t ................. Circle* + f:fXR ............. 96 Cleary*fR. , ................. Copper Center* + fR ......... 71 N. (2) Cordova * + ttX A. . . 955 Council*fR ................. 109 Craig* + f ................... 212 Dan Creek Rp .............. Deadwood*fR ............... Deering Rp ................. 73 Dempsey + fRp .............. Dillingham -+- fRp Dolomi + fp Dome Rp ................... N. Douglas* +tt ......... . . 919 Doyhof p ................... Eagle* + ttXR ............. 98 Eeklf ....................... 119 Elimlf ...................... 162 Ellamar*t ................. 106 (100) Eska p ................ (2) EyakH ................. 320 N. ( i oo) Fairbanks* + ft X ARi 155 Flat* + fR ................... 158 Fortuna Ledge* +R .......... Fort Gibbon^ + f ........... 181 36 Pop. Fort Li3cum* + fX 153 Fort St. Michael If 126 Fort Wm. H. SewardHf 186 Fort Yukon* + tJR 319 (100) Fox Rp Franklin* + tR- . .' Funter p Golovin * R Granite Mine + fp Gulkana + fRp Gypsum + fp*. N. Haines* + ttX 314 Hawk Inlet + fp Haycock*Rp 1 14 Hollis + fp Holy Cross* + JtXR Hoonah* + f 402 Hope*+fR Hot Sprmgs* + fR 29 Hydaburg* + | 34^ Hyder* 237 N. Iditarod XRp 50 IglooH 115 Iliamna-f-tp 66 Jack Wade + fRp N.Jtmeau* + ttX A 3058 Kake* 387 Kantishna Rp Kasaan + fp 126 Katalla*X 84 Kenai + fp 332 (2) Kennecott*f A 494 N. Ketchikan* + ftX A 2458 Kiana Rp Killisnoo + fp 256 Kinak^f 192 King Covefp Klawock* + f KlukwanH-f 167 Kodiak* + f 374 Kokrines + fRp Kotzebue* + fR 230 Koyukuk^H-t 124 Lake Bay + fp ' Latouche* + f : 505 Little Diomede Isllf 101 Livengood*JXR 131 Long + fRp Loring + fp Matanuska*+ (2) McCarthy* 127 McGrath + fRp 90 McKinley Rp RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON TX PRINCIPAL POPULATION CENTERS OF ALASKA 1920 CENSUS Continued Pop. 574 Meehan Rp Metlakatla* + f Mile Seven* ........ . Miller House + fRp .......... Moose Creek -f If ............ Mountain |f .................. 136 Mumtrak^f .................. 138 Naknek+fRp .............. 1 1 1 Napakiakamuite^I ..... ....... 173 Nation Rp ............. ..... (100) Nenana* + ftXR ...... 634 Nenana^f .................. 172 Nizina+Rp ................. Noatak^f ................... 164 Nolan H-fRp ................ N. Nome* + tiXR ......... 852 Noorvik^f ................... 281 Nulato* + ttR ............. 258 Nunatschuagamiutlf ......... 134 Nunivak Island If ............ 189 NushagakfRp ............... 16 Ophir* + fR ................. 22 (100) Palmer p .............. N. Petersburg* + fix A ...... 879 Pilot Station^ ............... 145 Point Astley p .............. Poorman-htRp .............. Port Walter*fp ............. Quigillingok^f ............... 104 Quinhagak + fRp ............ 193 Rampart* + ftR ............ 121 Richardson + fRp ........... Ruby* + ttXR ............. 128 Saint George If ............... 138 Saint Michael* + tt XR ..... 371 Saint Paul |f ................. 212 Saint Timothyslf ............ 101 Salchaket + fRp ............. " Sanak p .................... Sand Ppint* + fX ............ 60 Sanitarium p ................ 23 Saxman|f ................... 103 Selawik^f .................... 274 Seldovia* + t ............... 258 N. (100) Seward* + ftX A .. 652 Pop. Shageluklf+f 130 Shakan*-ht Shismaref If 131 Shungnak-j-fRp 95 (2) Shushanna Jet If 127 Sitka* + ttX 1175 N. (130) Skagway* + ftX A.. 494 Snettisham p Solomon*+R Steel Creek + fRp Stevens^f 103 (2) Strelnaftp Sulzer + fXp Sumdum + fp Susitna* + fR 48 Taku Harbor Rp (100) Talkeetna p 70 Tanana Crossinglf 101 N Tanana* + ttR 213 Tatitlekf 187 Taylor Rp Teller* + fR Tenakee* + f 174 Thane*XA 421 Tigara + fRp 141 Tofty *R Tokeen* + f TokotnaRp Tolovana + fRp Tread well* + ftX A 325 Tyee + tp Unalaklett* + fR 285 Unalaska* + f 299 Unga* + fX 313 Uyak*+f N. Valdez* + ftX A 466 Wainwright Rp 99 Wales Rp 136 (100) Wasilla*t White Mountainlf 198 Windham + fp Woodchopper Rp Wood Island U 104 N. Wrangell* + ftX A 821 Yakutat* + f 165 SYMBOLS: N Incorporated town, p Postoffice. 1f Not a postoffice. * Money order postoffice. + Postal telegraph. f Western Union Telegraph. J American Ry. Express. Steamboat landings. X Inter- national money order office. A Postal savings. 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Opinions and other interesting literature, and large pocket map free on request. Write to or call on J. L. Burnside, Gen'l Agt., 512 Alaska Bldg., Seattle, Wash. E. Farr, Agt., 607 Hastings St., . . . Vancouver, B. C. Herman Weig, Gen. Pass. Agt., 1727 Conway Bldg., Chicago RAND MCNALLY PI/IDE, TO .ALASKA AND -YUKON i Juneau, the Capital of Alaska ALASKA AND YUKON POPULATION of Alaska, iQ2ocensus, 55,000 whites3o,oob, natives 25,000; natives include "full" and "mixed" blood. The name "Alaska" is derived from an English corruption of the native word Al-ay-ek-sa. Population of Yukon Territory is about 9,000 and the pro- portion of whites and natives is probably the same as in Alaska. The name "Yukon" is Indian for river. The territory was a part of Northwest Territory until 1898, when it was given a separate organization, and the name Yukon from the mighty river bearing the same name. Area 207,076 square miles. Alaska in its greatest extent is included between the meridians of 130 west longitude and 173 west longitude, and between the parallels of 51 and 72 north latitude. It is bounded on the north by the Arctic Ocean; on the west by the Arctic Ocean, Bering Strait, and Bering Sea; on the south and southwest by the Gulf of Alaska and the Pacific Ocean, and on the east by the Yukon Territory and British Columbia. Note: The region covered by this guide includes all of Alaska, a small section of the northwestern corner of British Columbia, and the Yukon Territory adjacent to the White Pass & Yukon Route. The topog- raphy, climatic variations, treasures of the earth, wild game, scenic wonders, etc., are of the same character over the entire region. RAND MCN~ALhY : GUIt?E TO ALASKA AND YUKON The longitude of the western terminal of the Aleutian Islands is almost identical with that of the New Hebrides Islands, and is the same as New Zealand. Cape Prince of Wales, the most westerly point of the mainland, is nearly as far west as the Sanaoan Islands. Thus, a person traveling from New York to Attu Island, the westernmost of the Aleutian chain, on reaching San Francisco, will have accomplished less than half the journey from east to west. Point Barrow, the northernmost point of the land, is more than 300 miles within the Arctic circle. The extreme southern point is in about the same latitude as Liverpool, Amsterdam, Hague, Glasgow, and Copenhagen. From north to south the Klondike River from Ogilvie Bridge. Dredge "Canadian No. 4" in Foreground Territory extends more than 1,000 miles of latitude, and from east to west over 2,500 miles of longitude. That it is not possible to determine the climate of a country by simply noting on a map its distance north of the equator is demonstrated by the widespread error regarding Alaska. Alaska is not an Arctic Ocean province. About 70 per cent of the area of the Territory is in the North Temperate Zone. It has its mountain areas with their snow fields and glaciers with the loftiest summits on the continent and broad expanses of mossy tundra; but it has also wide areas of valley lands and timber and nearly as many varieties of climate as can be found in the Eastern and Middle States ; controlled largely by the prin- RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 3 cipal mountain ranges and by the Japan Current, which has the same effect on the climate of Alaska as the Gulf Stream has on the climate of Great Britain, Ireland, and Norway. When people in the States find on looking at the map that the bulk of Alaska lies north of Labrador, they conclude that the conditions of life must be infinitely worse up there than in Labrador. As a matter of fact, the town of Fairbanks, although 1,500 miles north of New York, and 300 miles north of the south- ern tip of Greenland at Cape Farewell, has its farms, flowers, mines, electric lights, and all the other comforts of modern life. Here the total annual precipitation is about twelve inches; the mean summer temperature about 56 F.; annual, 25 F. The extremes recorded are 65 F. and 100 F. Scenic Alaska. Norway and Sweden are the Mecca and Medina of the European tourists, in search of the picturesque and sublime, and the latter country takes its annual toll of American pilgrims on similar sights intent; but Alaska dis- counts anything which these countries can boast. Its mountains over-top Mt. Blanc, the Jungfrau or the Matterhorn; its glaciers dwarf the Mer de Glace and its puny associates; while the fiords of the Southeastern Archipelago do not suffer by comparison with those of Norway, whose grandeur has been embalmed in its sagas, and 'chanted by the annual procession of sightseers; while all its beauties can be seen from the deck of ocean or river steamer without the dust and discomfort of tedious railroad travel. Unlike the glaciers of Switzerland and the Tyrol, which debouch on inland valleys, and give the observer but little evidence of their tremendous power and vitality, the energy of which must be left entirely to the imagination, the largest of the Alaska glaciers, like those in Greenland which give birth to the monsters of the Atlantic, terminate on the ocean border or interior rivers, with towering fronts from 200 to 300 feet in height and miles in width; fronts which are daily pushed forward by the titanic force of gravity, only to be undermined by the waves, broken down into avalanches of glittering par- ticles or huge blocks which fall with a roar of thunder and throw the spray 100 feet into the air. At the Childs glacier you may loll at ease by the river bank on a carpet of flowers, while the glacier splits with a noise like a cannon shot or the staccato reports of small arms, and watch avalanche after avalanche start 300 feet above, driving the water in mighty waves up the gravel slope below you as they take the final plunge and float away in the narrow river. When 4 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Top Dump of an Underground Drift Mine Middle Hydraulic Lift Used in Flat Country. Water under Pressure Bottom Placer Mining the Early Method. Shoveling in by Hand Photos by Frank II. No well RAND MPNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 5 the mist has drifted by, the dead-white face of the ice disap- pears. The new dress glistens with the brilliancy of diamonds, and the deeper recesses of the facade gleam blue as a summer sky unflecked by clouds. The charm of the glaciers is never ending. You may watch them hour by hour, and yet linger for some grander evidence of their power. Beginning as mist, kissed by the sun from the southern seas; drifted by the wind to the Northland; falling as snow on the mountain tops; welded with other infinitesimal fragments into an ice unit; crawling inch by inch a few feet annually; carving the solid earth with power irresistible, only at last to be torn in a moment of agony from its associates of a thousand, or many thousand years, and sent drifting south, the plaything of the sun and the waves; only to be resolved into its primary elements is there not tragedy in the eternal cycle, repeated through the untold eons of the world's life? There are sunsets among them such as no painter could ever put on canvas, veritable vortices of flame as though the world were on fire. Along the Alaska Peninsula the tourist may witness in safety the tremendous pent-up energy of the internal fires; islands raised from the bottom of the ocean one year, only to be engulfed the next, as at Bogoslof. Extending along the Alaska Peninsula is a chain of volca- noes; first Makushin, then Pogromni, Shishaldin, Pavlof, Katmai, Silvanoski, Iliamna, and Redoubt, rising majestically from 8,000 to 10,000 feet from the ocean level, with many others of lesser altitude. These are the crowning peaks of a mountain range which, to the northeast, and north of Cook Inlet, culminates in Mount McKinley, thence extending eastward and southeast- ward, in Mounts Wrangell, St. Elias, and Fairweather and their cold, virginal sisters, grim guardians of the northern wonderland. These stupendous mountain masses which at St. Elias line the coast for more than a hundred miles, are even more im- pressive than the loftiest of the world's famous peaks, either in the Himalayas or the Andes; for while these rise from lofty interior plateaus, the sweep of St. Elias is from ocean to sky, with nothing to break the foreground. Surely the scenic beauties of Alaska, whether they be of earth or water or of sky, are varied enough to bring enthusiasm to the lips of the most blase traveler, ranging as they do from the sylvan groves of Sitka, which could satisfy even the most timid of lovers, to broad plains which whisper of peaceful 6 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON homes as the years go by; or from placid fiords, where days drift idly by, to exhibitions of the titanic and implacable forces of nature in her most terrific moods. Vast as an empire, there can be no such thing as ennui in the everchanging panorama; distances are forgotten, and the traveler will soon begin to understand the lure of the North, that intangible something which makes the Alaskan, cramped amid the environment of civilization, repeat to himself, day by day, "I want to go back, and I will." From "Alaska," published by Alaska Bureau, Seattle Chamber of Commerce. The first explorations of the Alaska region were made by the Russians, Shirikov and Bering, in 1741. Trappers and fur traders entered the region, and in 1786 Gerassim Pribilof, a Russian fur hunter, discovered the Pribilof Islands, the breeding grounds of the Alaska seal. In 1778 Captain Cook surveyed part of the coast. In 1799 a Russian American company secured the monopoly of the fur trade. In 1821 Russia attempted to exclude for- eigners from the Bering Sea and this aroused a controversy which resulted in treaties by Russia with England and the United States, fixing the boundaries of the Russian possessions in America. In March, 1867, Alaska was purchased from Russia for the United States by William H. Seward for $7,200,000, the transfer taking place on the i8th of October of the same year. For the first ten years it was governed by the War Department. In June, 1877, the War Department turned control over to the Treasury Department, and the Collector of Customs was chief executive. This arrangement lasted two years, when the customs officers, being unable to maintain order, control of Alaska was transferred to the Navy Department, which was in charge until the passage of the "Organic Act" in 1884. This act, which provided for a civil form of government to be administered by a governor, has since continued, the governor % being appointed by the President of the United States for a period of four years. In 1903 the boundaries with Canada were definitely fixed, by an agreement specifying that the sea coast of Canada be ex- tended no farther north than 50 40', and in 1906 Alaska was recognized as a territory. By the act of May 7, 1906, Alaska was given power to elect a Delegate to Congress, and the act of August 24, 1912, pro- vided for a Territorial Legislature. The total area of the Territory is 590,884 square miles, or more than 375,000,000 acres. It is nine times the size of the State of Washington, which, in turn, is larger than all the RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON New England States combined. Alaska has 26,000 miles of coast line. The main mass of Alaska is nearly rectangular and is carved out from the continent by the Arctic Ocean and Beaufort Sea on the north and the Gulf of Alaska on the south. An extension to southeast is furnished by the so-called panhandle of south- eastern Alaska, and to the southwest by the Alaska Peninsula and the Aleutian Islands. The Territory has three peninsulas of considerable size Alaska, Kenai, and Seward. The Alaska Peninsula forms a broken barrier between Bering Sea and the Pacific Ocean. The Kenai Peninsula, which is much smaller than the Alaska, and lies farther east, is separated from the mainland by Cook Dawson, Yukon Territory Inlet on the west and Prince William Sound on the east, with Kodiak and the adjacent islands forming an extension to the southwest. The Seward Peninsula, whose extremity marks the western- most point of the continent, extends from the central part of Alaska, and is bounded on the north by Kotzebue Sound and the Arctic Ocean, and on the south by Norton Sound and Bering Sea. The greater part of Alaska is taken up by the long stretch to the west of the Aleutian Peninsula and Islands, and the stretch to the south of the narrow southern peninsula. M5NALLY_GUID^J^^LA^^ AND YUKON RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA- AND YUKON 9 Region, Alaska 10 RAND M9NALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Sitka Spruce These Trees Are 37 and 39 Inches in Diameter RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 11 Along the coast lies the Pacific Mountain System, succeeded inland by a great plateau region marked by flat-topped ridges and rounded hills of almost uniform height; stream erosions having cut down the original level with the exception of these heights. The Pacific Mountain System is made up of three coastal ranges and an inland range. In this latter is the loftiest peak in America, Mount McKinley, about 20,300 feet high. In the Yukon Basin is an area of dead-level flats. Mountain masses rise out of the basin, except toward the Yukon delta on the west coast, where the plateau is generally unbroken and slopes gradually down to the sea. The Rocky Mountain System is divided into two continuous ranges of inconsiderable altitudes. Beyond the Rockies is a plateau succeeded by a tundra-covered coastal plain region sloping down to the Arctic Ocean. The Aleutian Islands are the crests of submerged peaks, forming part of the Alaskan Mountain System. Many of these peaks are volcanic, but all practically inactive. "In considering the value of undeveloped resources of Alaska we must in part be governed by the reports of scientific investi- gators and study of pioneer development under like conditions. It has been only during the last few years that even the most optimistic would concede that Alaska would be a land of a per- manent and prosperous people, simply because, as a people, we were not used to such climatic conditions as obtain throughout the northland, and we had in nowise grasped the extent of her enormous undeveloped, universal wealth and natural resources. "It was only after a study of what had been accomplished under like conditions of climate by the sturdy races of Asia and Europe in countries that can in nowise compare with Alaska in mineral wealth and natural resources, that we realized the immense potentialities of our great northern Territory. '" A few comparisons will not, I think, be out of place. Nor- way, Sweden, and Finland in the same latitude as Alaska and Copyright by E, H. Harriman Sitka Harbor 12 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON White Pass & Yukon R. R. in Sawtooth Mountains with very similar climatic conditions have a combined area only two-thirds as great. They support a population of 10,- 900,000, as against approximately 55,000 (1920 census) for Alaska. These lands have no universal wealth other than iron no coal, not near the area of arable lands, nor the wealth of fisheries with which Alaska has been so lavishly endowed. RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON is Copyright by E. H. Harriman Foot Path Along Indian River, Sitka "A prominent Alaskan Swede, who has been over a great por- tion of the northland, said, when talking of the possibilities of Alaska: 'If Norway and Sweden were one-half as rich in re- sources as Alaska, none of us would ever have left there.' "Finland with an area of less than one-fourth the size of Alaska had a population in 1909 of 3,059,234. "The total value of her products in that year was $79,468,200, while that of Alaska in 1920 was $75,306,986; population of 55,000. "Finland has 2,444 miles of railway of which 2,214 were built and operated by the States. The gross receipts of the government railways in 1912 were $10,317,780. "Finland and Alaska are largely included between the parallels of 58 and 70 north latitude. "Alaska is bordered on the north by the Arctic Ocean and Finland nearly touches the Arctic. "The cultivated area in Finland comprised about 7,000,000 acres in 1901. In 1909 that country produced 19,759,488 bushels of oats, 12,084,853 bushels of rye, 4,887,319 bushels of barley, 19,226,108 bushels of potatoes, 7,766,203 bushels of turnips, and 2,895,087 pounds of flax and hemp. "The output of butter was 26, 585, 600 pounds. The number of the principal domestic animals at that period was: cattle 1,491,264, sheep 904,447, swine 221, 972, 'and horses 327,817." J. L. McPHERSON. 14 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Copyright by E. H. Harrima Fort Wrangell, Alaska Special local features divide Alaska into six natural subdi- visions according to rainfall, temperature, and latitude. First : Southeastern Alaska, 300 miles long by 1 2 5 miles wide, and the coastal region as far west as Cook Inlet, are charac- terized by heavy rainfall and moderate temperature. The average temperature for the three winter months is similar to that of Boston and New York. This region is heavily timbered, possessing many available garden spots and rank floral vege- tation. In a narrow belt lying between the ocean and the Chugach Mountains, it extends westerly to Cook Inlet, and all its ports for the entire distance of 900 miles are open the year round to the commerce of the world. Second : This regio^ covering the southern coast of the Alaska Peninsula has a moderate rainfall and similar temper- ature, but it is almost timberless, the forests giving place to grazing lands. Like the first region, the harbors remain open during the winter. Whitehorse, Yukon, in June RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON is Copyright by E. H. Harriman The Alaskan Salmonberry Painting by Walpole Third: This region covers the entire coastal district of Bering Sea, from Bristol Bay to Point Barrow and also the coast bordering on the Arctic Ocean, and is characterized by wide areas of tundra and treeless plains, but like many parts of Arctic Russia, is capable of supporting great herds of reindeer. In its 2,000 miles of coast line, the rainfall and temperature vary greatly, both diminishing as we go northward. Along the shores of Bering Sea, the mean summer tempera- ture varies from 40 F. to 50 F., and the mean annual temper- ature from 25 F. to 40 F. The extremes of temperature 16 RAND MGNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON recorded at Nome are about 7 7 F. in July and 3 8 F. in January. The precipitation is about 15 inches at Nome, 14 inches at St. Michael, and 36 inches at St. Paul Island. The climate of the northern half of Bering Sea region is com- parable with that of the Province of Archangel, in northern Russia, a region which supports some agricultural population. The Arctic provinces, which include the littoral of the Polar Sea, as well as the drainage basins of the tributary rivers, are similar to that of Bering Sea region, but colder. At Point Barrow, the northernmost cape of Alaska, the mean annual is about 10 F. and the mean annual precipitation less than 8 inches. The highest temperature recorded at Point Barrow does not exceed 65 F. and the lowest 55 F. Fourth : The Copper River Valley, protected from the heavy rains of the coast by the lofty Chugach Mountains, possesses a comparatively dry climate with colder winter conditions, and is much less thinly timbered than the first region, lying to the south. Dining Room of a Yukon River Steamboat Fifth: The Kenai-Susitna region offers a compromise be- tween the first and fourth regions, the rainfall being moderate and the average summer temperature about 54 F. Much of this region is heavily timbered and contains large areas of good farming land. Sixth: This covers the central area, containing the great valleys of the Yukon and Tanana. Protected as it is on the south by the lofty Alaska Range with its extensive snow fields, it is well watered, although the average precipitation ranges RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 17 from only 13 to 20 inches, while the thermometer in summer climbs to 90 F., or over, in, the shade; and the average summer temperature is about 58 F., or somewhat higher than any of Cultivated Area at Beaver City, Alaska, on the Arctic Circle the five regions, while the average of the low summer temper- ature is only slightly less than in Southern Alaska. The total annual precipitation in the upper Yukon Basin varies locally from 10 to 16 inches, at Eagle 12 inches, at Dawson 13 inches, at Fort Gibbon, the mouth of the Tanana, about 14 inches. The snowfall in this district is from 3 to 5 feet. Some precipitation occurs on about 80 days in the year. The precipitation on the lower Yukon and Kuskokwim is about 17 to 20 inches. The average summer temperatures Alaska Indian Birch Bark Canoe is RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON are a little lower than at Fairbanks ; winter temperature the same. NEWSPAPERS Anchorage Anchorage Times D and W Alaska R. R. Record W Chitina Chitina Leader W Cordova Cordova Times D Alaska Times W Alaska Churchman M Douglas Douglas Island News W Fairbanks Fairbanks News-Miner T.W. Hyder Hyder Alaska Miner W Juneau Alaska Daily Empire D Alaska Capital W The Stroller's Weekly Ketchikan Chronicle D McCarthy- McCarthy News W SYMBOLS: D Daily. M Monthly. AND PUBLICATIONS McGrath Kusko Times B.W. Nenana Nenana News D Nome Nome Nugget T. W. Petersburg The Report W Seward Seward Gateway D Skagway Daily Alaskan T.W. Sitka Vestovian M Sitka Sun M Skagway Daily Alaskan T.W. Valdez Valdez Miner W Pathfinder M Wrangell Wrangell Sentinel W T. W. Tri-weekly. W Weekly. B.W. Bi-weekly. I Ketchikan I Wrangell I Petersburg i Douglas i Juneau TERRITORIAL BANKS i Juneau i Valdez i Iditarod 1 Skaguay i Seward i Nome 2 Cordova 2 Anchorage i Hyder NATIONAL BANKS i Seward i Fairbanks A Salmon Packing Plant, Where the Great "Iron Chink" is Operated RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 19 P H.I N ( : K W t LI >L\M SO \ T X ) ) Copyright by E. H. Harriman Sketch of Port Wells, Alaska 20 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON WASHINGTON-ALASKA MILITARY TELEGRAPH SYSTEM The United States Signal Corps operates all telegraph lines in Alaska, except certain private wireless plants which connect with the government lines. All business to and from * ' outside ' ' is handled by the commercial lines at Seattle. During the summer months communication is kept up with radio stations maintained by the various companies engaged in fisheries. The system comprises 2,676 statute miles of sub- marine cables and 799 statute miles of telegraph lines. LIST OF STATIONS IN ALASKA Pop. Pop. Beaver DamH + fD Kotliktf O 83 Birches AD Kogukuk1f + tD 124 Brooks O Loudin D 64 Chena1T+tn 29 McCallumH + fn Circle* + tt O 96 McCarthylffD Copper Center* + tD 71 McGrath + t 90 Cordova*+ttAo* 955 MeloziD Craig* -f- f O 212 Nenana* + ftD 634 Donnellv^f + tD Nome*+tt o 852 Douglas* +tt A 919 Nulato*+f{ o 258 Fairbanks* + tt OD 1155 PaxonD Fort Egbert D Petersburg* + f A 879 Fort Gibbon H+f O D 181 Richardson + f D Fort Liscum*+f* 153 St. Michael* -f-f| o 371 Fort Yukon*+ft O 319 SalchaD Gulkana+fn Seward* + fJ A 652 Haines* + tJA 314 Sitka* + fA 1175 HoganD SkagwayA*+fJ 494 Holy Cross*+ft O TiekhellD Hot Springs* + :|:D 24 TolovanaHH-tD Iditarod O 50 TonsinaH + fD Juneau* + tJA .3058 Valdez* + ttAD 466 Ketchikan* + tt A 2458 WortmansH + f D Kokrines + tD 80 Wrangell* + ttA 821 SYMBOLS: H Not a post office. * Money order postoffice. + Postal telegraph, f Western Union Telegraph. J American Ry. Express. Steamb9at landings. D Telegraph. o Radio. A Cable. ^ Telephone. TELEPHONE SERVICE Telephone connection is open to the public between all sta- tions on the U. S. Government R. R. Fairbanks local service includes all creeks in the district. There is 'phone service between Hot Springs, Rampart and Tofty. NAVAL COMMUNICATION SERVICE There are at present nine naval radio stations in Alaska, namely: St. Paul, St. George, Dutch Harbor, Kodiak, Seward, Cordova, Sitka, Juneau, and Ketchikan. RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 21 The naval communication service handles commercial traffic to any and all points that are served by the radio stations. The rates have been made the same for both the cable and radio. This uniformity of rates makes it very easy to route the traffic via radio in case of a cable break or by cable in case of a radio breakdown. In general the Alaska stations handle mainly commercial traffic and government traffic of Class B. All commercial traffic is domestic count, lo-word minimum. The rates for southeastern Alaska, such as Juneau, Ketchikan, and Sitka, are 10 cents a word, lo-word minimum. For Cordova and Seward the rate is 15 cents a word, lo-word minimum. For southwestern Alaska, such as Kodiak, Dutch Harbor, and the Pribilofs, the rate is 19 cents a word, ic-word minimum. At present all traffic for points east of the 13 8th meridian is routed through the Astoria-Ketchikan circuit. This is the old Marconi spark circuit. All traffic to points west of this meridian is routed via the Keyport-Cordova arc circuit. All the Alaska stations are spark stations except that Cordova and St. Paul have both arc and spark installations. ALASKA COMMERCE SINCE 1867 Minerals 1867-1919 1920 1867-1920 Imports $ 486,466,906 $ 38,418,473 $ 524.885,379 Exports 939,365,741 68,990,681 1,008,356,422 Total $1,425,832,647 $107,409,154 $1,533,241,801 Hydraulic Operations 22 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON PRODUCTS OF ALASKA Minerals, 1867-1920 Gold $319,664,993 Copper 126,926,096 Other 13,639,916 $460,231,005 Fish, 1867-1920 Salmon $410,703,353 Other 44,700,039 $455,403,392 Furs, 1867-1920 Sealskins $60,195,226 Other 30,325,820 $90,521,046 Woods, curios, reindeer, etc $2,200,979 Total $1,008,356,422 COMMERCIAL BODIES IN ALASKA Anchorage Chamber of Commerce Anchorage Brooks Commercial Club Brooks Cordova Chamber of Commerce Cordova Fairbanks Commercial Club Fairbanks Haines Chamber of Commerce Haines Hyder Commercial Club Hyder Iditarod Commercial Club Iditarod Juneau Commercial Club Juneau Ketchikan Commercial Club Ketchikan McCarthy Chamber of Commerce McCarthy Nenana Commercial Club Nenana Nome-Seward Chamber of Commerce Nome Petersburg Commercial Club Petersburg Ruby Commercial Club Ruby Seward Chamber of Commerce Seward Skagway Commercial Club Skagway Talkeetna Commercial Club Talkeetna Valdez Chamber of Commerce Valdez Wrangell Chamber of Commerce Wrangell Agriculture at Fairbanks, Alaska RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 23 Copyright by E. H. Harriman Painting by Charles R. Knight Kodiak Bear RESOURCES Agriculture is yearly becoming more and more an established industry. Already the Matanuska and Tanana districts are furnishing practically all the vegetables required for local con- sumption. Forage for horses and cattle is being grown, and even wheat, which it was at one time thought impossible to mature, is, through the efforts of the agricultural experiment stations, now a regular crop. Fairbanks has the first flour mill to be built in Alaska, and it will be only a few years before that district will be supplying the whole of the interior and the towns along the line of the government railroad with flour. The average yield of wheat at Fairbanks is 19.6 bushels to the acre. The farmers there are commencing to organize for the purpose of co-operation in buying machinery and equipment. The sugar-beet industry is worthy of consideration for Alaska. The Alaska beets contain a larger percentage of sugar than do the beets of the States, and can be worked during the winter months without refrigeration, which is most desirable. An established sugar-beet factory in the vicinity of Anchorage would be able to draw on the Matanuska Valley, the whole line of the railroad and Cook Inlet for the needed supply. The live stock industry has hardly progressed beyond the demands for dairy products, but eventually beef cattle will be grown in many parts of the Territory. The growing of live stock should be encouraged by the loan of blooded cattle to the farmer for a period of years under 24 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Mount McKinley, Alaska, 20,30 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 25 t high in the Middle Distance 26 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON regulations to insure proper care. A return to the Government to be made in kind for issuance to other stock growers. At Holy Cross mission a herd of twenty-five dairy cattle is kept and fed exclusively on swamp grass and red top made into hay and siloed. For more detailed information, those interested are advised to write to the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., for the latest publications relative to Alaska investigations. Most of the homesteads are located in the Matanuska and Sustina valleys along the line of the government railroad; in the Cook Inlet region in the Tanana Valley in the interior, and in Chilkat and Eagle river valleys of Southeastern Alaska. Main Street of Juneau, Alaska The principal crops are turnips, potatoes, and other root crops. All the hardier grains mature in the Tanana Valley. Competent authorities estimate that approximately 100,000 square miles of valley lands with their adjacent low foothills are available as arable and grazing lands, comprising the valleys of the Yukon, Tanana, Susitna, Copper River, and portions of the Kuskokwim, with less areas on the minor streams; as well as a considerable portion of the Kenai Peninsula, and the Alaska Peninsula, including its adjacent islands. The prospective farmer must look for his profits to a diver- sified product, which shall furnish his table with the necessary things of life, and sell the remainder to near-by purchasers. It should be clearly understood that for the present, at least, farming must partake more or less of the character of market gardening around the mining centers, gradually expanding as these industries grow. RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 27 The consensus of opinions by those who have made a special study of the subject in all its aspects, not only in theory, but by actual experience on the ground, is that many thousands of Europe's population would gain by change of residence, especi- ally those living in similar latitudes under similar conditions. > Atlin Inn on the Farther Shore Bottom Lake Atlin, B. C. 28 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Dawson, Yukon, Public School Grain 'Crops and Grasses. That oats, barley, wheat, and rye can be grown successfully has been demonstrated at the experimental stations in the Yukon-Tanana valleys and also by the farmers around Fairbanks and in the Susitna Valley, who have cut barley for hay giving three tons to the acre. Much time has been devoted to the study and growth of all kinds of grain from northern countries and the end is not yet. In the rooms of the bureau may be seen handsome sheaves of all these grains and their cleaned products, 6o-day and Finnish oats, as well as hull-less and beardless barley. There are also handsome samples of wheat, but this is a more tender grain. It has been demonstrated by the farmers around Fairbanks in the Tanana Valley that hard wheat can be matured, and wheat raising by them has passed the experimental stage. The winter-sown grain does well if covered by snow, but it is liable to be frost killed on ground swept bare by the wind. It is no new thing to grow these cereals in northern countries as they mature rapidly. At Uleaborg, Finland, in the same latitude as Fairbanks, oats, barley, and rye are staple crops and are also largely grown in Northern Russia, requiring only from seventy to eighty days from seed to maturity. It is not the intensity of the winter cold which governs their successful growth. The great point is the date at which the ground attains a sufficient warmth to cause the seed to germinate RAND M 2 5- 20 > 3 ~3> are plenty large enough and do not destroy the meat. Hunting large game, caribou, moose, etc., use a gun much heavier, of high velocity, and great striking power, such as 7 MM. -8 MM-30-40, or one using the 1906 government ammunition. The last named is the favorite among the "sour-doughs," using the needle-point soft-nose and lever action of the carbine size. Those intending to hunt north of 62 or in any place where the temperature will be 25 below or lower, the gun should be taken apart (screw spring and all), every particle of gun grease removed, and every piece wiped thoroughly dry. Then moisten the fingers with three-in-one or nitrosolvent oil, pass the pieces through the fingers, making sure that the oil is applied to every part lightly so that it rests in the pores of the steel. Never take a gun into the tent or cabin, except to leave it there long enough to become warm, when all of the sweat should be wiped off. Guns left in the cold never taken in will remain in good working order. When they are finally put away, clean thoroughly and then incase heavily with gun grease. In Southeastern Alaska, on account of the intense moisture and salt water, guns must at all times be in heavy gun grease. In this region they should be kept indoors, well wiped, and greased, and the grease removed from the inside of the barrel before using. Never have a load in the barrel of a packed gun. There is no reason or excuse for so doing. It may be caught in over- head brush, or when used to rest on as a staff; both of which a gun on these trips is used for. Have the butt of the gun always concave, so that the points will dig and hold in case of slipping. With very little practice a shell can be thrown into the barrel while the gun is coming to the shoulder loaded and cocked in one action. Always have the magazine loaded. Care of ammunition. Ammunition left out in very cold weather should stand at least twenty-four hours near a stove to dry out before using. Steel taken from cold outdoors into a warm atmosphere will sweat. Smokeless powder when damp RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 93 loses largely its explosive power, and bullets, propelled by such, fall almost anywhere after leaving the muzzle of the gun. Such a condition occurs when shells are left in the cold. Clothing. Persons going into Alaska in summer (June until September) should wear the same clothes they wear in the States, taking along such wraps as when making a trip to Europe or along the coast of the United States. In winter when traveling along the southern coast take along the same apparel as worn in the northern states. Overcoats are worn by those in transit on the coast and by the people in the towns and cities, but never by the overland traveler who walks. Be sure of protection against wet weather on the coast. Sun at Mid-day December Twenty-Second When traveling on extended trips across country have three two-piece suits of medium- weight underwear, and three heavy woolen shirts, or those similar to soldiers' heaviest shirts; two suits of knee trousers, spiral leggings, and hunting coats made of forestry cloth. These are best for summer and winter, and are worn by both men and women. The trousers made of brown duck cravenetted can be had at every place in Alaska. Socks in winter should be of heavy wool and reach to the calf of the leg and there should be a very liberal supply. Mush- ing is hard on socks. Sometimes two pairs are worn at the same time; laundering is irregular. Leather shoes are not worn in the winter in the interior that is, away from the south coast except in the towns where people are mostly indoors. The oil in leather absorbs the cold. Moccasins are the foot-wear where the country is cold enough to prevent wet snow, or where the snow will not melt on them 94 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON from the heat of the body. Moccasins, lacking the oil, are porous and wearers must avoid "overflows." In cold weather one who is wearing moccasins and steps into water must get a fire at once and change. Therefore in traveling with dog-team it is imperative to have a good supply of woolen socks and an extra pair of moccasins, with insoles one-half inch thick. The insoles serve not only as cushions but also protect the feet from the cold ground. Have this foot-wear always on the load for ready use. For the hands use the native mittens to be had in the interior of Alaska, and have at least two pairs. They are made of moose-hide, trimmed at the top with fur reaching to the elbow, and lined with blanket. The proper thing is to have the mit- tens connected with cord long enough to go around the neck and allow the wearer to drop them at pleasure. Wear woolen mittens inside of the native mittens. Always keep wrists warm; be sure and carry on your person an extra pair of these woolen mittens to use immediately in case of perspiration. Never allow yourself ? to perspire, always be on guard against it. In extreme cold weather it is taking a great chance of freezing to death. In a few words, properly dressing in the "North" means putting on just as little as one can get along with, always having plenty to put on to prevent suffering. Persons traveling must regulate their gait so as to warm up if feeling chilly, without adding more clothes. A good woolen sweater is a part of the outfit and should never be omitted. The head-gear consists of ordinary woolen cap with flaps lined with fur that can be held rvp or let down over the ears and neck. Mucklucks are water-boots made by the Eskimos of seal- skin top and walrus hide bottoms. A pair of these properly oiled should be in the outfit for wear in overflows. Leather shoes cannot be used with snowshoes; nothing but moccasins or mucklucks will answer. Snowshoes should be purchased wherever it is intended to travel through and snow- shoes are necessary. Snowshoes made for wet snow will not answer in dry snow. The managing of snowshoes is very simple. There should be a pair of what are known as trailers for use on light broken trails. Glacier ice is smooth and hummocky. When traveling where it is forming, ice creepers are in order. When traveling via dog-sled in winter, the "bed" consists of a robe, at least one double blanket and a tarpaulin, the last named to roll the bed in, as protection from the ground or snow, RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 95 and as a wind shield. This should be 15 by 8 feet of 8- or 10- ounce canvas. Making the bed: One half of the tarpaulin goes under and the other half covers the top. , On hunting trips, traveling with tents, these beds are equally as desirable as if without shelter. As if to make up for not having poisonous reptiles in Alaska, mosquitoes are plus in the summer time, but are not known to convey disease germs of any kind; malaria is unknown in Alaska. Therefore there is the mosquito tent, in which two men can lodge and close up with absolute protection against rain and mosquitoes. It has holes for windows covered with bobbinet, a canvas floor, and a drawstring door. It can be Top: Mountain Goats Bottom: Salmon Ascending Creek Near Ketchikan, Alaska 96 RAND MGUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON McCarthy P. O. (Shushanna Jet.). Located on Copper River & Northwestern Railway, 19 1 miles from Cordova, and surrounded by snow-capped mountains and glaciers which excel in grandeur anything in Switzerland. This town is the outfitting point for big game hunters going into the White River country, 80 miles distant. Principal scenic attractions hereabout are Great Canyon of the Chittistone River, Icy Lake, and the Pot Hole at McCarthy. The Commercial Club recommends the following: Time for sightseeing, May ist to October ist; fishing, June ist to October ist; hunting bear, April 1 5th to June ist ; other big game during open season, which, north of 62 latitude, opens August ist, and south thereof August 2oth. There are sheep, moose, caribou and goat; also some grizzly and black bear. Hunting parties headed for White River country should reach McCarthy early in August. Valdez. Located at the head of Port Valdez on the north shore of Prince William Sound; population, 466 (1920 census). The ocean terminus of the Valdez-Fairbanks auto road, which at Willow Creek connects with the route from Chitina. The scenic attractions via this route are on a par with those on the Copper River & Northwestern Railway to Chitina. Port Valdez, the most northerly ice-free port in Alaska, is the headquarters of gold quartz mining and industry and its trade extends to all the mines of the numberless islands and inlets of the sound. It is a modern town with stores, banks, a good water supply, electric lights, etc. Latouche. Population, 505 (1920 census), 10 per cent of which is native. It is on the north end of the island of the same name. There are paved streets, a hotel, restaurants, room-houses, several stores, safe deposit bank, telegraph, 'phone, water and lighting systems and five fish canneries. The garden patches in the town raise every variety of common truck. Montague Island, the largest island in the Prince William Sound group is 85 miles by an average width of 9 miles and entirely uninhabited by reason of the ferocity of the brown bear which holds forth thereon. It is of the same species and aggressive ferocity as the Stikine River (Southeastern Alaska) bear. Sportsmen who would seek a finished combat with this particular fighter will find Latouche the logical starting point. It is said, however, that the Stikine bear is not hunted by the best Indian hunters. Seward. The southern terminus of the government railroad under construction to Matanuska coal fields and Fairbanks RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 123 is located on Resurrection Bay, a magnificent deep water inlet on the south coast of the Kenai Peninsula. It is also the starting point for the steamer which makes monthly trips to all the ports along the Alaska Peninsula as far as Unalaska, a distance of 1,146 miles. Seward is the outlet for the quartz and placer mines of the Kenai Peninsula and has a valuable fishing industry. It is a flourishing town with a population of 652 (1920 census), with several hotels, good stores, a bank, good water supply and electric lighting system. The Government Railroad in Alaska passes through 540 miles of virgin country, full of interest from a scenic standpoint. Starting at Seward on beautiful Resurrection Bay, inclosed by picturesque mountains and evergreen forests, the road climbs the south slope and crosses the Coast Mountains, and passes through an interior valley, following the shores of Kenai Lake, a beautiful body of inland water. In the summit district of the Kenai Mountains the road winds down from an elevation of 1,100 feet to sea level in a long double loop, pass- ing very close to gorgeous glaciers, through rocky tunnels, and in view of mountain scenery unsurpassed in any part of the world. The road skirts along the northern shores of Turnagain Arm with high mountains on the one hand and the sea on the other, to Anchorage, head of navigation on Cook's Inlet, and Government Railroad headquarters. Leaving Anchorage, the road pushes northward to Nenana and Fairbanks, through the Matanuska, Susitna, and Tanana valleys, already awakening to their agricultural possibilities as evidenced by little farms springing into view. Two branch lines take the visitor into the coal fields around Chickaloon and the gold fields north of Fairbanks. The streams abound with trout, grayling, and white fish beyond the fondest dream of anglers, and the caribou, moun- tain sheep, moose, and bear in countless number roam the northern slopes of the Alaska Range, making this section of Alaska a paradise for sportsmen. O'ershadowing all other scenery in grandeur stands Mount McKinley, nearly four miles high, visible for 300 miles from the railroad, crowned, as it is, monarch of North American moun- tains by eternal snows. Anchorage, the third largest town in Alaska, is government- owned with population, 1,856 (1920 census), on Cook Inlet at Turnagain Arm. Practically every religious denomination is represented; all the principal fraternities have chapters here; schools second to none in the Territory; electric light, water, 124 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON and sewer system, a paid fire department, two banks, two theaters, daily newspaper, and a chamber of commerce. The average temperature of the district for June- August is 65, with an average for these months of sixteen to eighteen hours' sunshine per day. The principal resource is coal. Vegetables and strawberries have generous yields ; barley and wheat mature and oats produce prolifically. Rainbow trout, Dolly Varden trout, grayling, and white fish are plentiful. Anchorage is the trade center of the Cook Inlet and Susitna region. Points of interest: Spencer Glacier, on Government Rail- road, four hours distant, in a picturesque region; Old Kink reached by launch in two hours; historic old Russian church. The U. S. Government is operating two coal mines fifty-seven and seventy-four miles north of Anchorage. The former is furnishing coal for the construction and operation on the railroad; the latter for coal for the Pacific Fleet of the U. S. Navy. Talkeetna. On the U. S. Government Railroad 227 miles from Seward with population, 70 (1920 census), has telegraph and 'phone service. On near-by farms are raised potatoes, turnips, cabbage, beets, carrots, celery, peas, strawberries, etc. The Cache district gold mines are 40 miles west. Resurrection Bay. Extends north and south about 16 miles with a width of from 3 to 5 miles. It is mostly surrounded by high precipitous mountains which with certain exceptions extend to the water's edge. Kenai, population, 332 (1920 census), is on the east shore of the inlet at the mouth of Kaknu River. It is a center of considerable fishing and agricultural activity. Kodiak (called by the Russians St. Paul), population, 374 (1920 census). It is composed of Indians, half-breeds, Rus- sians, and a few Americans, who live in comfortable frame cottages, generally with a small garden attached. For here is a region of birds, of blooming wild flowers, of grasses and groves of low fragrant spruces, of vistas of distant mountains capped with snow and the usual Greek church. The people fish and hunt the sea otter. "The mighty emerald billow that rises from the rear of the village! The climber soon finds himself knee deep in ferns, grasses and a score of flowering plants. The wild geranium here is light blue, and on the summit may be found a most exquisite forget-me-not of a pure delicate blue with yellow center, a lady's slipper, pale yellow striped with maroon; and here the dwarf RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 125 rhododendron, and patches of lupine, bluebells, Jacob Ladder, iris, saxifrage, cassiope, and many others. And here are numer- ous birds, notably the golden-crowned sparrow, the little hermit thrush, pine grosbeak, gray-cheeked thrush, and the Oregon robin." John Burroughs. Bidarkas. In this region are seen the first bidarkas, small boats made of seal or walrus hides stretched over a light wooden frame. They are made by first constructing the frame, in which there is neither mortise, tenon, or scrap of iron the several parts being securely tied together with sealskin thongs, after which the hides, properly prepared and sewed together are stretched tightly and completely over the frame, except a round hatch left in the top center for the occupant. Around the projecting rim of this opening the user ties the lower end of a waterproof shirt made from the intestines of the seal, and which is called a kamalyka. This shirt is supplied with a hood which is drawn closely around the neck and likewise secured at the wrists and thus the water is prevented from getting into the body of the boat. Bidarkas are made in three sizes, with one, two, and three hatches and are called by the natives yaks, bidarka being the Russian name. "From Kodiak the route extends through a narrow strait between Kodiak and Spruce Islands into Marmot Bay, at the head of which are the Creole and Kanaig settlement of Afognak, population, 308 (1900 census), on an island of the same name. At the west end of the narrow strait referred to is the little Creole village of Oozinki. All the houses in the Creole settle- ment have gardens attached in which the inhabitants grow their own vegetables. Leaving Afognak, the course is north, passing inside of Marmot Island and heading to the westward of Barren Island, which are located about midway between Cape Elizabeth and Cape Douglas. Sailing on northward, leaving Augustine Island and volcano to the right, there is during the day a fair view of Illiamna and Redoubt volcanoes, the former of which has been more or less active for over a hundred years, and has never ceased to emit smoke and ashes. The next important water way encountered, heading toward the west is Cook Inlet wherein the tides are perhaps more violent and rapid than at any other point on the Pacific Coast. They at times run at the rate of 8 to 10 miles an hour with an average rise and fall of 2 5, to 28 feet. The distance from the 126 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON entrance to the head of the inlet is about 200 miles. Large steamers dock at Anchorage on Knik Arm. Alexandrofsky. At Graham Harbor is the old Russian settlement of Alexandrofsky, and a few miles north thereof is Seldovia, population, 258 (1920 census). Along the coast from Cape Elizabeth to Copper River on the east, on the islands of the Kodiak Archipelago and along the whole water from way around to where the eastern bound- ary line intersects the Arctic Ocean, and on a large part of the Alaska Peninsula, are found Eskimos only, the Atha- baskans being hemmed into the interior at all points save the one named above. The waterway which separates Kodiak and Afognak Islands from the Alaska Peninsula is the route the ships take to Karluk, population, 99 (1920 census), the seat of the largest canning industry in Alaska. The scenery throughout this strait is indescribably grand and awe-inspiring. Karluk is at the mouth of the river of the same name on the southwestern side of Kod::,k Island. Here are a half dozen or more canneries. The white population of Karluk is augmented during the canning season by whites and Chinamen who come up from Climatic Regions of Alaska RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 127 San Francisco, Seattle, etc., in the early summer and return in the fall. The Katmai National Monument. This volcanic region is in the Aleutian Range, on the Alaska Peninsula, facing on Shelikof Strait, which latter separates Kodiak Island from the mainland. Its boundaries extend from Cape Kubugakli (the south point of entrance to Katmai Bay), northwest 32 miles, thence north 26 miles, east 10 miles, southeast 52 miles to the shore of Shelikof Strait, and thence along the coast 55 miles to place of beginning. The area is approximately i,o88,ooor'square miles. "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes" extends through the center of this region. The National Geographic Magazine of February, 1918, says: " Nothing approaching it has ever been seen by the eye of man .... indeed if one could pick up all the other volcanoes in the whole world and set them down together, side by side as close as they would stand, they would present much less of a spectacle always excepting a period of dangerous eruption than doe^ the "Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smokes" every day in the year. The Mount Katmai Volcano is now proved far exceeding in size Kilauea (Hawaii), the latter having been considered the greatest active crater on earth. Briefly the dimensions of the crater are: Width of rim, 3 miles; circumference at highest point of rim, 8.4 miles; area, 4.6 square miles. The lake in the bottom is 1.4 miles long, Ko wide; the precipice L n the lake surface to highest point of rim 3,700 feet; the cubical capacity is 4,500,000,000 cubic yards. Greater New York uses 525,000,000 gallons of water daily. This crater filled would equal 1,635 days' supply for the Metropolis. During the sixty hours of explosive activity in June, 1912, the amount of rock blown off from the mountain was approx- imately 11,000,000,000 cubic yards which is over forty times the amount of earth and rock removed in the construction of the Panama Canal. The whole of this National Monument is by no means a devastated wilderness. The upper end of Naknek Lake, which extends within the boundary of the park, lies between Mount LaGorce, 3,000 feet, and Mount Katolinet, 5,800 feet. Lying parallel with Naknek Lake are Grosvenor, 28 miles long, described as ''the most beautiful spot in Alaska," Coville 128 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON and Brooks lakes. These lakes are among the greatest spawn- ing grounds in the world for red salmon and breeding place of innumerable waterfowl. There are also in the vicinity white fish and giant trout, and bears of unbelievable size. Moose, elk, foxes, grouse, swans, geese, ducks are also here in numbers. Unga. Again under way towards the setting sun the ship passes Semidi Island and rounding the Shumagin group lands at Unga, population, 313 (1920 census), a village pleasantly situated on the island of the same name and the largest island of the Shumagin group which includes among others Popoff, on which the principal cod-fishing stations are located. Unga is 26 miles in length and about half that width. The Alaska Peninsula is a most remarkable tongue of land, the inner end of which is marked by the entrance to Cook "Steve" Fester's Hunting Cabin in Lake Minchumina Region of Alaska Inlet on the east and the head of Bristol Bay on the west, from which points it extends southwesterly for nearly 500 miles to the strait of Issannakh. Belkofski on the ocean side of Alaska Peninsula is a pleasant looking hamlet of perhaps seventy-five frame houses, with an impressive background of towering mountains covered to the very summit with a vestment of green. Here is to be found a Greco-Russian church, perhaps the finest church edifice in Alaska. The population, 129 (census 1900), includes about an equal number of Creoles and Aleuts. The former are prin- cipally sea-otter hunters ; Belkofski being the point from where the largest number of these skins is obtained. The adjacent country furnishes a wide range of excellent grazing land, upon RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 129 which there is a natural growth of wild grasses, the luxuriance of which has never been excelled on the richest prairies of Illinois or Iowa. During the run from Unga to Belkofski, about 70 miles, there is a splendid view of Pavloff volcano. Skirting the east coast of Unimak Island on the way to Una- laska there is to be had an occasional glimpse of Mts. Shishaldin and Isanotski, volcanic peaks more or less active, and credited with an elevation of 10,000 feet. The principal eastern pass to Bering Sea lies between the island of Unimak on the northeast and Ugamok, Tigalda, and Akun on the southeast. When the voyager shall have arrived at Unalaska he will have, some idea of the extent of the Alaskan coast as compared with that of the Atlantic, Lake, Gulf, and Pacific states. The distance in a straight line across the continent from Eastport, Me., to Astoria, Ore., is, in round figures, 2,700 miles. Astoria is in longitude about 123 degrees west and Sitka, 1,000 miles to the northward, is in longitude 135 degrees, while the 193 -degree marks the western boundary of Alaska. Sailing west by south it is nearly 1,500 miles to Unalaska, and from thence at least i ooo miles due west to the boundary line, about 100 miles east of which is the island of Attu, our most westerly land possession. That is to say, traveling in a straight line from the most easterly point of the United States to a directly oppo- site point in Oregon, the traveler could yet continue on 3,000 miles further and then finds himself in United States territory. Traveling to the northward and passing the 600 miles of British coast he would have to cover not less than 4,000 miles before reaching the most northerly point of Alaska. A glance at the map will disclose the fact that Unalaska is very nearly in the same longitude with East Cape, the most easterly point of Asia, beyond which our possessions extend nearly 900 miles. Unimak is the most easterly of the great Aleutian chain of islands, and is separated from the mainland by the unnavigable strait of Issannakh, with Akun, Ugamok, Tigaldo, Akutan, Avatanak, Unalga, and a number of the smaller islands lying between it and. Unalaska. Unalaska, a village with population, 299 (1920 census), con- sists of about fifty frame buildings, a few of quite generous size and respectable outward appearance. The inhabitants consist of whites, Creoles, and Aleuts, the last named being in all respects superior to any of the other natives thus far met with a naturally bright and quick-witted people, with a Japan- ese cast of features and undoubtedly of Asiatic origin. Both the Aleut and Russian authorities agree that before the Russian 10 130 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON conquest of these islands on the Aleutian Islands there were 120 villages with a population variously estimated at from 15,000 to 25,000. The island of Unalaska is 125 miles long and 30 to 50 miles wide. There is no timber on the island but this is offset by a wealth of nutritious wild grasses in the valleys and on the mountain slopes sufficient for the sustenance of as large herds of sheep as could be maintained on an average equal to the whole area of the island. The winters are not nearly so severe as those of the cattle-growing states of the northwest, the temperature rarely falling as low as 10 F. There is an abundance of fish (salmon, cod, halibut, and a species of mackerel predominating) in the bays and rivers of Unalaska Island, but no fur-bearing animals of consequence. Nevertheless, it is the center of the fur trade of the Shumagin Islands on the east to Attu. It is the port of entry for all of western Alaska, and is supplied with wharves and other com- mercial facilities. Dutch Harbor is on the eastern side of Unalaska Island in Captains Bay and is so named from the tradition that a Dutch vessel was the first to enter it. It is the coaling station for steamers en route to St. Michael and Nome. The harbor is an arm of the Bering Sea, 600 miles west of Seward, from which latter there is a monthly mail. Bogoslof is the small island to the westward of Unalaska. History records that on May 7, 1796, a Russian trader was stopping temporarily on the northeast end of Umnak Island, on account of storm, which abated on the next day, during which he observed at a distance smoke arising out of the sea. At night great flames ascended and an earthquake shook the whole island from which the trader was observing the phenomenon, while rocks were thrown across the intervening expanse from what afterwards was found to be the crater of a volcano. On the morning of the third day a newly created island loomed. In 1800 it had ceased to smoke, but fishermen visiting its shore found the solid rock too hot to permit landing. It continued to increase gradually both in height and circumference until 1823, when it had attained a height of 1,000 feet. After that year it gradually diminished and finally disappeared in a single night, another islet of about the same circumference making its appearance about two miles distant. The new Bogoslof is gradually rising and from it there is a constant emission of steam and smoke. The Pribilof (seal) Islands are St. Paul, St. George, Walrus, and Otter. St. Paul, the most northerly, is about 230 miles RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 131 from Unalaska; its greatest length 13 miles and greatest width about 6 miles. At one time about one-half of its 40 miles of coast was occupied by seals. St. Paul, a village with population, 212 (1920 census), con- sists of about 100 native frame houses, in addition to which there are about a dozen company buildings. There is a Greco- Russian church, -priest's residence, and a finely appointed school house. The resident inhabitants of St. Paul and St. George are Aleuts. What is true concerning the natives of Unalaska will apply equally as well to their brethren on the Seal Islands. They are practically a civilized people, not in Grass and Timber on Nin Ridge, Kechatna Valley the sense of being fully educated but that they are converts to the Christian religion and have adopted civilized ways in the matter of dress and mode of living. The seals begin to arrive at the islands about May ist, a few bulls constituting the advance. These do not land at once but swim idly about for some days as if inspecting the land, or possibly waiting for the arrival of others. From the date of the arrival, if the weather be clear, until June ist the number is not materially increased; but if the summer fogs set in earlier, then the bulls begin to come by the thousands and lose no time in selecting and locating upon suitable ground which they 132 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON - guard and hold against all new comers until the cows arrive from two to three weeks later. Those that come first locate immediately on the water line of the breeding ground, and between themselves and the newcomers there is a constant fight for possession; those that come latest, being the freshest and strongest, generally driving those that preceded them farther back. This continues until the cows arrive, every bull having in the meantime been obliged to fight a dozen or more battles in order to maintain the ground he has chosen ; the weaker ones having been driven from place to place until all have been located. These seal pre-emptions may be said to cover a space about eight feet square, and the pre-emptor, unless driven off by a covetous bull stronger than himself, never leaves his claim for a single instant until the end of the rutting season which continues from July ist to August i5th. From the time he hauls out in May, and certainly not later than June ist, he fasts continuously until the breaking up of his harem in August. Weighing 400 to 600 pounds when he comes out of the water, he goes back into it a mere skeleton, and very seldom returns to land during the same season. The cows begin to come in numbers about June 2oth and before the middle of July the harems are filled, each bull taking to himself all the way from ten to forty cows. The female seals give birth to their young soon after their arrival, bearing each a single pup. By the middle of September the rookeries are entirely broken up, the young seals have learned to swim, and by the end of November they have, as a rule, all departed from the island. Whence they come and where they go is a mooted question. The killing of female seals is prohibited by law, and of males those of from two to four years are considered the most desir- able the three- and four-year-old ones having the thickest and finest fur. The males who take and hold possession of the rookeries are never less than six years of age, the younger ones being wholly excluded from the breeding grounds. As a consequence, the young male seals are compelled to haul out in places wholly separate and apart, sometimes miles away from the rookeries. These are the ones doomed to slaughter those on the breeding grounds are never disturbed. During May and June herds of young ''bachelor" seals haul up on land not very far from the water's edge, when a number of natives quickly and quietly run along between the surf, and the sleeping seals who, being startled and seing their retreat to the water cut off, scramble farther back. The Aleuts then walk leisurely on the. flanks and in the rear of the drove and drive it, possibly a RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 133 mile, to the killing grounds. If the weather is cool they can be driven at the rate of a half mile per hour only three or four Historic Block House, Sitka, Alaska men being required to control the movements of as many thousands. These drives are usually made in the early morning, and if the drive is a long one, the seals are permitted to halt 134 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON and rest. 'Heating them injures the fur. The killing grounds are near the salting houses for convenience in handling and shipping. When on a drive the seals raise their bellies entirely from the ground upon their flippers, and they can get over the ground with a speed almost equal to that of a greyhound. They are never hurried, however, for if driven too fast they crowd and bite each other and injure their skins. After reaching the killing ground, they are allowed time to cool off. All seals which are undesirable are singled out and allowed to escape. The desirables are killed by men, each armed with a ''big stick" of hickory who drive out from 50 to 150 seals and form what they call a "pool." Circling around this pool they narrow it down to a huddle until the seals are within reach of their clubs. Every desirable seal receives a blow which stuns if it does not kill outright. The undesirable are urged to go away. The insensible victims are quickly drawn out, placed on their backs so that they do not touch each other, and killed all very quickly done, not only to prevent a ''heat- ing'' which causes the hair and fur to peel off, but to insure the men against being bitten by seals who have been only half killed. Promptly following the killing and bleeding comes the skinning which the Aleuts do with a celerity that is marvelous. The native who is unable to flay a seal in less than three minutes is classed third or fourth in division of the earnings. The skins are taken to the salting house, which is partitioned into large bins called "kenches," into which they are put, fur side down with a layer of salt between, and where they become sufficiently cured in a week's time. They are then taken from the kenches and piled up into what are called "books," with the addition of more salt, and then finally prepared for shipment by rolling them into compact bundles each containing two skins. At the close of the season they are shipped to St. Louis where they are dressed, plucked, and dyed. The Nushagak is one of the great rivers of Alaska. It has its source in the lake of the same name and empties into Nush- agak Bay. Nushagak, the settlement, is on this river about 100 miles from its mouth, which latter is 20 miles in width. The population, 16 (1920 census), consists of a trader's store, church and parsonage, a few fairly neat buildings occupied by Creoles, and a number of subterranean houses similar to the barbararas already described herein. The Kashima. In every Eskimo village there is a com- mon or public house, known as " Kashima," built after the style of the subterranean dwellings, but larger. Entrance is down a hole about six feet, then through a low tunnel, crawling ten RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 135 feet, then ascending to a level with the roof of the tunnel into a room say 20 feet square. A raised platform extends all the way round the sides leaving room in the center for an open fire which is built on a bare square spot of earth some three feet below the surrounding platform. The platform is on a level with the top of the entrance tunnel, the end of which can be opened at will to permit persons to pass under the platform. When the fire is not needed it is covered over with planks even with the platform. In this house the men do all their domestic work, such as the construction of bidarkas, sleds, etc. Here are held all public meetings; here all public business is transacted. It is also open at all times as shelter for guests or visitors who are there entertained instead of being taken to private habitations. It is the sleeping place for unmarried adult males, and is like- wise used as a bath house, for theatrical performances, mask dances, etc. In the matter of scenic representations these natives are on a par with the Chinese. There are combats; stuffed animals are moved about by hidden strings, devils with masks with movable eyes are introduced, and wooden birds with flapping wings. The actors enter through the fire-hole. The store houses, of which there are about as many as there are dwellings, are on posts ten feet high to protect the contents in each village from the dogs, who devour anything they can get hold of. These storage boxes are about 8 feet square and the only entrance thereto is by a small square hole on one side which is reached by means of a notched stick set on end which is used as a ladder. In these safe deposit boxes are kept their arrows, spears, snow shoes, meat, berries, fish, beluga, blubber, oil, etc. There is no recognized form of chieftainship or form of government among these people ; nor can they be called a tribe as commonly accepted. This is true of all the so-called tribes of Alaska; none has distinct organization. In each settlement some one man, by reason of his wealth or superior skill and bravery, is recognized as a sort of leader, and as such his advice and counsel are more or less respected. But there is no " chief " invested with any authority by his people. The medicine men (shamans), who pretend to cure by incantations, exercise more influence than self -constituted chiefs. They direct all the festivals, dances, etc., in which old and young participate almost continuously during the winter months, and by their sorcerous pretensions acquire an influence equal to absolute power of life and death to be exercised at will against those who 136 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON incur their displeasure. No such power is recognized in a chief. A judgment that a life shall be taken is not pronounced by a chief but by the popular voice, and every male adult becomes a self-appointed executioner. The region about the Nushagak River has the appearance of a high rolling prairie covered with rich verdure. A more luxuriant vegetation or a greater variety of wild flowers than is to be seen growing along the banks, wild timothy, red top and blue point grasses waist high, as far back as the eye can reach, is seldom found anywhere. No western prairie before culti- North America July Temperature RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 137 vat ion ever presented a more inviting aspect than does this wild stretch of treeless country with its almost boundless billows of waving grass, thickly interspersed with wild flowers of almost every hue and variety. There are salmon canneries on this river which employ during the fishing season about 150 white men and 300 Chinese. The fish taken in this river are the "king," some of which weigh over 100 pounds. The smaller rivers and lakes in this section teem with food fishes of various kinds white fish, similar to the Lake Superior, and trout similar in size and appearance and fully as fine flavored as those of Northern Michigan and Wisconsin. What is true here applies with equal force to all that part of the mainland bordering on the coast and the islands lying in front of it from the southern boundary to Kotzebue Sound. A few miles above Nushagak is a Moravian school called "Carmel," and on the river beyond and also scattered along the sea coast are a number of villages of Eskimos seldom visited by white men. The Kuskokwim is another great river of Alaska. Its waters are received from the glaciers on the north stretches of the Alaska range and reach the Bering Sea through Kuskokwim Bay. It is 9 miles wide at its mouth and is navigable for over 600 miles inland. The valley of the Kuskokwim has an area of about 50,000 square miles, and the snowcapped mountains which frame it are known to contain rich gold deposits. The most important metal of the region, however, is cinnibar (the principal ore from which mercury is extracted), of which there are great deposits in the vicinity of Bethel, the principal center of that part of Alaska, and the most immediately tangible asset of the region is salmon which every spring run up the river in great schools to spawn. The natives own the reindeer herds which range over the tundra, and live upon the flesh of the animals and upon fish. Bethel is a settlement located about 100 miles up the river, consisting of 50 whites and 275 natives. It is at the head of ocean navigation and it is also the transfer point for all mer- chandise for up river. Truck gardens nearby produce all kinds of vegetables. White inhabitants of the region drained by the Kuskokwim are probably less than 300 during the greater part of the year. The native population consists of about 1,000 Behring Sea Eskimos. Georgetown is another small white settlement on the river, about 250 miles from its mouth. 138 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Tokotna is at the head of navigation. McGrath. This place, located near Tokotna, has population, 90 (1920 census), and is one of the stations of the U. S. Govern- ment radio system of Alaska. Nome, in the Seward Peninsula, is the trade center of North- western Alaska and is the center of a rich placer and gold mining district. It is reached by steamship during the open season of about five months, the distance from Seattle being 2,372 miles. During the winter months the mails are carried by dog teams from Seward and letters from the States take about six weeks for delivery. Population, 852 (1920 census). St. Michael (called by the Russians Redoubt St. Michael), is on the inner side of the island of the same name, lying near the southeast shore of Norton Sound. Population, 371 (1920 census). It is the ocean terminus of the Yukon River steamers. The island, which embraces about 12 square miles, is in 60 30" north latitude, and the surface is carpeted with a most luxuriant growth of wild grasses and variegated flowers. The natives are Eskimos always busy carving ivory, making baskets, etc. The soil, a rich mold, is capable of producing all the vegetables that can be grown in the extreme northern states. The temperature ranges from about 45 F. in winter to 85 F. in summer about the same as Northern Minnesota. Unalakleet River empties into Norton Sound, about fifty miles northeast of St. Michael. Here is a Swedish mission and an Eskimo settlement. Unalakleet population, 285 (1920 census) . Port Clarence, within a short distance south of Cape Prince of Wales, is a coaling station from which govern- ment vessels and steam whalers are supplied, and here is located the principal reindeer station established by the Government, with a view of providing for the necessities of the native people. Cape Prince of Wales, projecting from the mainland at the southern end of Bering Strait, is the most westerly point of th'e continent. Population, 136 (1920 census). The men and women are better looking than the general run of Alaskan natives. The women wear long hair, but the men shave the upper two-thirds, leaving a bare crown surrounded by just a fringe of hair. Cape Prince of Wales is in latitude 65 30" and longitude 165 50" and lies nearly opposite the most easterly point of Asia. The small area of land lying at the foot of a slope of hills, as well as the higher level, is covered with verdure, and, surprising to say, a dozen different varieties of wild flowers of as many hues embellish the landscape. Here the natives RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 139 possess graphite ornaments, which mineral, they say, can be found in great abundance within three miles of the settlement. A few hours steaming, passing Fairway Rock, and the vessel reaches what the treaty of cession denominates the Frozen Ocean. " In this region the tundra was of a greenish brown color and rose from a long crescent shaped beach in a very gentle ascent to low cones and bare volcanic peaks, many miles away. This is the tundra that covers much of North America, where the Lake Spenard, Alaska. Anchorage Bathing Resort ground remains perpetually frozen to an unknown depth, thawing out only a foot or so on the surface during the summer. Lured on by the strangeness , in a few moments our hands were full of flowers which we kept dropping to gather others more taking, to be in turn discarded as still more novel ones appeared. I found myself very soon treading upon a large pink claytonia, many times larger than our delicate April flower of the same name. Then I came upon a bank by a creek covered with a low nodding purple primrose; then masses of the scooting star attracted me, then several species of pedi- culatis, then a yellow anemone, and many saxifrages. There were wild bees here too, and bumble bees boomed by, very much as at home. A tundra is always wet in summer as the frost prevents any underground drainage, but is very uniform 140 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON and the walking not difficult moss, bogs, grass, and flowering plants covered it everywhere. The Savanna sparrow and the Alaska longspur were here, and so were golden flowers, the gray-cheeked thrush, Townsend fox sparrow, and Canada tree sparrow." John Burroughs. The Midnight Sun. Crossing the Arctic Circle, latitude 60 32", astronomically determined, the course is eastwardly, heading towards Cape Blossom in Kotzebue Sound, in the land of the midnight sun. There is practically no night, only four hours of twilight intervening between the rising and the setting of the sun, the declination of which is only about 2 degrees. One can see to read ordinary newspaper print at midnight without the aid of artificial light. Capes Espenberg on the south and Kruzenstern on the north are the head lands of Kotzebue Sound and at each there is a small native village. Eskimo Clothing. A full suit consists of parkay, pantaloons, boots, and sometimes includes a fur cap, but, except during the short season of intolerable summer's heat, the average Innuit goes bareheaded. The parkay is usually double so as to provide fur inside and out. The men wear one pair of pantaloons, with fur inside in summer, but in winter have an undergarment, generally of tanned reindeer skin. The women wear two pairs of pantaloons, one made of tanned reindeer fawn skin and the fur inside, and the other of coarser material with the fur out- side. The boots for winter wear are made mostly of the skins of reindeer legs and reach about half way to the knees ; those for summer are made of hair-seal skin with tops reaching above the knee. The soles are from the thick hide of the old bull seal. To protect the eyes against the snow blasts of winter on the one hand, and against snow blindness on the other, they wear goggles with wood where the glass is in ordinary spectacles. In this bowl which covers the eye there is simply a narrow slit through which the wearer enjoys a wide range of vision. Hats are worn only in the extreme hot weather of July and August. The sun hats are carved out of single blocks of wood with broad oval brims in front, and are generally ornamented with strips of ivory set on edge, and upon which is carved the totem of the family of which the wearer is a member. They wear hose made of grasses, closely and neatly braided, and which are preferable to any other in that climate. These interior natives, as well as those on King Island and the coast, generally shear the crown of the head "tonsure" style and sport labrets, some of the latter being of enormous size, though these fashions are confined principally to the males. Among the northern natives RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 141 Chickaloon Coal Mine, 75 miles from Anchorage, Alaska every male of any consequence must have two slits through the lower lip one at each corner of the mouth in which he wears a pair of labrets about the size of an ordinary cuff button. These are generally made of a kind of mottled stone resembling gray granite, of jade, of ivory, etc., varying in design, round, square, oblong; the largest flange always worn outside. They are worn as personal adornment. The women wear stone and ivory ear trinkets. At Point Hope, probably the most barren, desolate place imaginable, there is the largest Eskimo settlement on the Arctic Coast. Point Barrow is a low, flat sand pit that projects eight miles from the main coast, on which there are two native villages, Ooglaamie and Noowook. Point Barrow, population, 322 (1920 census), is the summer rendezvous of the Arctic whaling fleet. The Eskimo whaling season opens as soon as the ice begins to break away from the shore in the spring or early summer. During the fall and winter they hunt walrus and hair-seal. Point Barrow, the northernmost cape, is warmer than any point in the world as far north of the equator, and Alaska's southern shores bordering the North Pacific Ocean are likewise warmer than any point in the world in similar latitudes during the winter months as the result of the beneficent influence of the Japan Current. 142 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Norway alone can approach it in these respects, but in Nor- way the mountain backbone runs parallel to the coast line, its rivers are insignificant streams, and there is no room for extensive valleys; while in Alaska the immense quadrangle is divided into three zones by lofty mountains on more or less east and west lines which leave between them broad plains, through which such streams as the Kuskokwim with 600 miles and the Yukon with over 2,000 miles of navigable waters open up its vast interior. NORTH AMERICA Temperature January SCALE North America January Temperature RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 143 SKAGWAY TO ATLIN, DAWSON, FAIRBANKS AND ST. MICHAEL Leaving Skagway the train begins at once its climb to the Summit of White Pass midst scenes of the wildest and most awe inspiring grandeur; and, as the train continues its sin- uous climb along the mountain sides, one cannot help wonder- ing at the skill of the engineers who were able to build a railroad through such seemingly inaccessible country. The indescribable ruggedness of the country impresses upon the visitor the tremendous hardships and unparalleled heroism of the hardy pioneers who blazed the trails and opened up the vast country now yielding such delights in scenery and hinting at so much commercial promise. On the way to the summit the train passes many points of unusual scenic, as well as historic, interest. Looking back down the valley from Rocky Point, a splendid view is had of Skagway and Lynn Canal. Then come into view the "hanging rocks" at Clifton, under which the train passes. Beyond are the Pitch Fork Falls a scene of rare beauty. On the other side of the valley are the Bridal Veil Falls. About thirteen miles from Skagway, down in the valley, may be seen a few log cabins all that remain of what was once known as White Pass City. During the Klondike rush this ephemeral town contained about 3,000 people, living mostly in tents. Glacier Gorge is next, which the train follows, but over 1,000 feet above it. As the train r ' imbs Tunnel Mountain a wonderful panorama of scenery is u. .xolded the Sawtooth Mountains, Dead Horse Gulch, and deep, deep down the rushing glacier stream with here and there glimpses of the old White Pass trail. Seventeen miles from Skagway by rail, but only twelve in an air line, is Inspiration Point. A truly inspiring panorama of Alaska's matchless scenery is beheld from here. Just before the Summit is reached the train crosses the steel cantilever bridge, 215 feet above the rushing mountain stream. Twenty miles from Skagway is the Summit of the White Pass. Here under the stars and stripes and the Union Jack a bronze monument marks the boundary between Alaska and British Columbia. Here are located United States and Canadian Customs Officers. Lake Bennett. Along the shores of lakes and mountain streams the train continues on its way until the upper end of Lake Bennett is reached, and the now deserted town, also named Bennett. Time was when it teemed with life and excitement, 144 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON arnman Baskets Made by Aleutians, Atka Island, Alaska when thousands of men were building all manner of water craft to sail down the Yukon to the gold land of their hopes, the Klondike. Here the train stops for luncheon. Lake Bennett is a long narrow sheet of blue, bounded by mountains of old rose color. As the train approaches Carcross, the traveler crosses the most northerly swing bridge on the American continent, built over the outlet of Lake Bennett into Nares Lake. For twenty-seven miles the railway follows the ever winding shores of this lake. En route the 60 of north latitude is crossed, the boundary between British Columbia and the Yukon Territory. Carcross, Y. T. is located at the foot of Lake Bennett. Here connection is made with the steamer of the White Pass & Yukon Route for Lake Atlin. Atlin is located on the shores of Lake Atlin in the extreme northern part of British Columbia. The route to Atlin is through a chain of narrow mountain girt lakes to Taku Land- ing. Here portage of two miles by rail is made to the west shore of Lake Atlin where another steamer is boarded. A distance of six miles and the town of Atlin on the shore of Lake Atlin is reached. Atlin is the supply point for the placer gold mines located in this district. The discovery of gold near Atlin in 1898 made this district known to miners, but it did not become known to tourists until some years later, and RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 145 now the fame of Lake Atlin, one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, has spread far and wide. The lake is over 80 miles long. At the extreme upper end is the great Llewellyn Glacier which with its various arms is about 50 by 75 miles in area. One of the features of the trip to Lake Atlin is the excursion trip to Llewellyn Glacier, about 40 miles from the town of Atlin, through a series of narrow passages walled in by moun- tains, many of them snow crowned throughout the summer. And when the water is smooth, as it frequently is in these passages, there may be seen the most wonderful and perfect reflections imaginable. A splendid tourist hotel is located on the shores of the lake in the town of Atlin. There are many points of interest in and around Atlin, including the Indian village gold placer mine, fox farms, warm springs, etc. Whitehorse, Y. T. is a busy little city of 600 people, located on the west bank of Fiftymile River. Near-by there are interesting copper mines. As at Skagway there is excellent hotel accommodation. It is the terminus of the railway division of the White Pass and Yukon Route the point of departure for the trip down the Yukon River to Dawson. When, shortly after this railway was finished over the White Pass, Burton Holmes took in this region, he said among other things, "Where the pioneers dragged their bleeding feet up the icy stairways of the White Pass or .the Chilkoot, we rolled in all the luxury of railway cars and within sight of the death-dealing rapids, through which their boats were steered, with the fear of death for pilot, we glided smoothly over rails of steel, coming from Skagway on the coast to Whitehorse City, on the Upper Yukon as comfortably and as expeditiously as we could travel from New York to Boston." The trip by rail from Carcross follows more rivers, and pass- ing little ; lakes stops at Miles Canyon. About five miles beyond, the trip by rail comes to end at Whitehorse on the Fiftymile River, in miles from Skagway. Connection is made here with the steamers of the White Pass & Yukon Route for Dawson. DOWN THE YUKON Whitehorse, the northern terminus of the White Pass & Yukon Railroad, is two miles below the famous Whitehorse Rapids, at the head of navigation on the Yukon River. From here the traveler will board a steamer of the type seen on the Mississippi River and will find all the comforts to be had on the best of our boats that ply the rivers of the United States. 11 146 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON From Whitehorse to Dawson is a trip of 461 miles and takes about 48 hours. The scene is ever interesting. The river is tor- tuous and rapid. There are terraced hills clothed with spruce, aspen, and wild flowers. Then a bit of open country, the meadows gay with more wild flowers. Then the river cuts its way through the spurs of mountains, ramparts, and gorges. Here and there small Indian camps are passed, the women busily engaged in drying salmon. Stops are made occasionally at the telegraph stations along the river, and at the wood camps, where wood is taken on as fuel. Sometimes a bear, a caribou, or a moose may be seen swimming across the river or standing on the bank apparently posing for a picture. The trip is unusually restful. The air is fresh and invigor- ating. The boats are modern and very comfortable. The staterooms are commodious and scrupulously clean. Should the weather be unfavorable the tourist may view the scenery from his chair in the spacious observation room. There are many points of interest on the voyage. The tortuous Thirtymile River, where navigation in this North- land is seen at its best. Cassiar Bar, where gold placer mining was first done in the Yukon country in the early 8o's, and up on the mountain side near-by lies buried one of the discov- erers. Tantalus Butte, now to the left, now to the right, sometimes ahead and again astern. Five Finger Rapids, Rink Rapids, FortJSelkirk, near the site of the old Hudson's Bay Post, destroyed by the Indians in 1851. Victoria Rock so named on account of resembling the profile of Queen Victoria. The Pelly Ramparts, and other interesting points. Fifty-six Shovel-nose Pike, Weighing from Ten to Twenty Pounds, Taken by Trolling in Four Hours, Lake Minchumina, Alaska RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 147 The route is down the upper section of the Yukon River known as the Lewis River and, as far as Lake LeBarge, often spoken of as the Fiftymile River; a 2 8 -mile trip through a flat country to Lake Le Barge. Lake LeBarge, Y. T., is a beautiful lake, thirty odd miles in length, and it is over this lake that the early supplies are carried on the ice in the spring from White Horse to the steamers lying in wait at their winter quarters. They in turn distribute down the rivers as soon as the ice goes out, the first fresh goods arriving in the country since the close of navigation. It is here, at the foot of Lake LeBarge and at the head of the swift Thirty- mile River, where many wrecks occurred in days gone by, that ''The Cremation of Sam McGee" took place in the book "The Spell of the Yukon," which made the author famous. Hootalinqua, Y. T. Thence the steamer traverses the swift, crooked Thirtymile River to the junction with the Hootalinqua (often called the Teslin River), where there is a small trading post called Hootalinqua. Up this river, which drains Teslin Lake, is a great country for the big game hunter, including moose, caribou, sheep, and bear; fish, grouse, and water fowl. From Hootalinqua down the river is 27 miles to Cassiar Bar where men worked pay-dirt out in 1886. The traveler in his conversation with the old timers in the country will be told again and again of the famous Cassiar diggings. At the mouth of the Big Salmon River is the next stop, a post where extensive tradine is done with the natives for fur and where the prospectors and those mining on the Big Salmon can get supplies. Gold was first found on this river in 1881 by four miners who had made their way over Chilkoot Pass at the head of Lynn Canal and down the Lewis River. Still further down is another trading post at the mouth of the Little Salmon, and further on is Carmack. Near here are the coal mines that today are producing coal ; also stores and the first barracks of the Royal Northwest Mounted Police since leaving Whitehorse, for it is at this place that the winter trail from Whitehorse to Dawson first touches the Yukon after leaving it a few miles below Whitehorse. This winter trail makes many short cuts to reduce the distance between the two points. Carmack, Y. T. The village was named after George W. Carmack, a squaw man, found living with the natives at the mouth of Klondike River in 1896. Robert Henderson who had discovered gold on Indian River advised Carmack to cross over the low divide into what afterwards proved to be waters of the Klondike River and prbspect for gold. In the event of making a find Carmack was to have sent a native back to 148 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Grown at Fairbanks, Alaska inform Henderson that he might stake. This was the custom of the country. Carmack went as advised, struck rich pay on Bonanza Creek a tributary to the Klondike, the first strike made in the Klon- dike in 1896. He did not notify his benefactor. Henderson kept working on Gold Bottom in ignorance of Carmack 's strike until the whole country was staked by men who had stam- peded there from Fortymile diggings, at which place they discovered Carmack recording his find with the Government. Five Finger Rapids, Y. T., is the next place of interest. Here many outfits were lost in the early days during the mad rush to the Klondike. On account of the numerous accidents the Glacier City, Kantishna, Alaska RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 149 Canadian Government took early steps to remove these obstructions and also many of the most dangerous rocks far- ther down. Thus far, the Yukon scenery is ever varying; first, open flat country with the mountains visible on either side; then closing in until they form the near banks of the river. Now a long stretch of gravel terraces, then high cliffs of varied colored rocks. Further on there are strata of ash of possible volcanic origin, running along the sides of the bare hills. There are growths of spruce and willows in many places hanging out over the rivers, called " sweepers," and to the unwary traveler in a small boat who allows himself to be carried in to them very dangerous. Rink Rapids, Y. T. Five miles below Five Fingers the stream flows through Rink Rapids. To the writer who has traveled it, the Yukon seems one continual rapids from Five Fingers until Rink Rapids have been passed. Here the river is white from passing swiftly over the boulders below. The steamer soon passes Yukon Crossing, at which place the winter trail from Whitehorse to Dawson crosses the Yukon. Old Fort Selkirk, Y. T., the next stop, is identified with the history of this country. It was here that Mr. Robert Campbell located this trading post in June, 1848, having come into the country over the Rocky Mountains from the Mackenzie waters. During the early rush to the Klondike the Canadian Northwest Mounted Police had a force here. Their duty was to keep track of the movements of each and every one that entered the Yukon Territory, looking after them in every way, and they did it. The Pelly River, which joins its waters with those of the Yukon on the right " limit" of the river, opposite Fort Selkirk, finds its source in the Rocky Mountains, commonly spoken of here as the " Mackenzie Mountains." By traveling in boat up this river one can reach one of the finest big game countries in the North, either by staying with the Pelly River itself, or by going up its left fork, the Macmillan. Here is an ideal country for hunting the moose, caribou, sheep, and bear; also good fishing and grouse and water fowl. After leaving Fort Selkirk the next stream is the White River with its source in the St. Elias Mountains. At its head, which is swift and dangerous to navigation, have been many strikes, both in copper and gold, and several stampedes have been made there at different times during the past. Many big game hunters go every year into this country from Whitehorse, or from McCarthy, on the Copper River Railroad 150 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Copyright by E. H. Harriman Entrance to Wrangell Narrows in Alaska. Here are to be found all of the big game animals common to the North and in such numbers that the huntsman is sure to have his bag full of the trophies he has selected from the many before killing. Willing guides with full equip- ments may be had at either of the points mentioned above, but arrangements should be made a considerable time in advance. The traveler must not feel surprised when he sees or is told of the different farms existing along the Yukon and its tributaries. Here are 6,000 square miles of farm land waiting for a market which will come as the country is settled up and its vast mineral resources developed. The next river is the Stewart. It was discovered by and named after James G. Stewart in 1849 while hunting for natives who were out trapping and hunting. The Stewart and its left fork, the McQuestion, have been and are still great producers of gold. Active mining began on the Stewart River in 1885, and the run averaged about $100 per man per day in summer. Ogilvie, Y. T. The next place of interest is Ogilvie, one of the first posts established. It was here that prospectors bought supplies which they used in developing this great gold country. Opposite Ogilvie the Sixtymile River joins the Yukon, its source being near the head of the Fortymile River. The Sixtymile River located as it is in the heart of this great gold belt has been a good steady producer. RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 151 Next we have the- Indian River which enters the Yukon on the rirfit limit next above the Klondike River. Up the Indian River are some of the richest creeks ever found in the Klondike district and these helped greatly in the production of $ioo,boo,- ooo that was taken out from this district between 1898 and 1905. Dawson, Y. T. Arriving at Dawson the visitor will find a city that in the rush of '97 and '98 sprang up, as it were, over night with people from all parts of the world brought there by the news of the rich strike. Located at the junction of the Klondike and Yukon rivers, it is the metropolis of the Klondike, and the educational' and financial center of Yukon Territory. Population, 2,000. Mining is the chief attraction to all visitors, in view of which the Yukon Development League has permission from the large operators for visitors to be shown the mining operations in every detail. The mammoth dredges dig and pass through their machinery 10,000 to 20,000 cubic yards of gravel per day, and the giant water nozzles on the hydraulic operations sluicing down banks of gravel 200 and 300 feet high at 3,000 cubic yards per nozzle per day, which passes at terrific speed through the sluice boxes, separating the gold from the gravel during the process. Good roads facilitate speedy trips to all the famous gold- bearing creeks, along which the dredges and nozzles may be comfortably viewed from the car. The agricultural possibilities of the territory are not incon- siderable. The grain crop is increasing, almost every known vegetable is grown successfully, and the fur catch is increasing; 15,000 acres are now held under the Homestead Regulations and 30,000 acres have been purchased outright. The Mayo District is said to have 4,800 square miles of silver-lead deposits. Considerable development work has been done in this dis- trict and some very rich silver-lead ore uncovered. Several thousand tons of this ore were shipped to the smelter at Tacoma during 1921. The indications are the Mayo Camp will be not only a rich silver-lead camp but an extensive one as well. Here are all the government buildings and the different departments of the Yukon territory; fine schools, churches, a Carnegie library; homes built with all the comforts of modern homes in the States, and as the traveler strolls about the city, he will be shown the cabin which is surrounded with flowers and kept up in memory of Service, the great writer of the Yukon, who made this his home in the early days. One can auto into the gold-bearing creeks where there is every modern device used by large corporations; in working over 152 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON the old diggings everything being worked out scientifically to get all the gold that was left by the miners in the early days who, on account of the wasteful methods and the great expense of operations, could only work out the rich pay dirt. The American Express Company operates over the White Pass & Yukon Route and carries on a general express busi- ness, issues money orders, makes collections, carries gold dust, bullion, coin, currency, valuable papers, etc. The commercial telegraph service is maintained by the White Pass & Yukon Route between Skagway and Whitehorse. In addition the United States and Canadian governments maintain a commercial telegraph service reaching most of the coast and interior points,, especially those along the lines of the White Pass & Yukon Route and the American Yukon Navigation Company. Fortymile, Y. T. The next stop below Dawson is at the junction of the Fortymile and the Yukon rivers. At this point is located the barracks of the Royal Northwest Mounted Police and the Canadian Customs. This, in days gone by, was the chief post of the North American Transportation & Trading Company, called Fort Cudahy after its owner, a company organized for trading purposes and transportation, having posts the length of the Yukon River to St. Michael, where they received their freight from ocean liners and distributed it with their own steamers to their posts. The Fortymile country, located up the river by the same name, has been a steady producer ever since it was struck in 1885-86. The river itself was a hard one to navigate (on account of the swift waters and canyons) for the men who had Indians at Lake Minchumina, Alaska RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 153 Top Where Land and Water Transportation Meet at Anchorage, Alaska Bottom Chiznik, Alaska Peninsula 154 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON to get their supplies up it in polling boats. In these same canyons every year men work the bars after the high water and each year it would seem a fresh supply of gold is taken down on the high waters. Many men have been working these bars, making a good living and laying aside a little for the future, ever since the camp was struck. In this section are creeks tributary to the Fortymile that have been good producers. Eagle. Passing down this most beautiful stretch of the Yukon we cross the Alaska-Canadian boundary line 12 miles above Eagle. At Eagle, population, 98 (1920 census) , we find the American Customs and see the old abandoned Fort of Egbert where for years United States soldiers were kept to guard our customs. This post was abandoned in 1911. Here we also find stores that supply the miners of the Seventymile River and other numerous streams in this section of Alaska. Caribou Run. Every September large bands of Caribou cross this section of the Yukon, on what is known as the great * ' Caribou Run . ' ' For about two weeks they cross continuously , hundreds of thousands of them. Steamers have had to tie up for hours at times when there was an extra large band crossing. No one seems able to explain this run, where they all come from or where they all go. They often pass through the towns and on account of their numbers seem to be insensible to fear. Circle, population, 98 (1920 census), maintains the stores of the Northern Commercial Company. It is on the trail to Fairbanks used by the United States mail in winter, and to supply the mining industry in the country lying between Circle and the rich diggings of the Fairbanks country on the Tanana River. Along the trail are roadhouses for the accommodation of the traveler. About 40 miles back, near Medicine Lake, is the Circle Hot Springs with fair accommodations. In this vast country good hunting is to be had for moose, caribou, bear and sheep. Also grouse and water fowl. Fort Yukon is the next stop; population, 319 (1920 census). Here the midnight sun can be observed in June. Here also are the large Episcopalian Indian Mission and Indian school, and, as at Eagle and Circle, a United States Government wireless station. To this place come the trappers and fur traders from the Porcupine country and the Chandelar coun- try, in fact from all points of the compass to sell and ship their furs. Fort Yukon was first started in 1847 by Mr. A. H. Murry and it was here that Mr. J. Bell in 1846 reached the mouth of the Porcupine River and was told by the natives that the large river he was about to enter was the Yukon. Here the Yukon opens out for miles in a great flat known RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 155 Copyright by E. H. Harriman Indian River near Sitka, Alaska as "the Yukon Flats." The river is some 60 miles wide, filled with large gravel bars and islands and is known as one of the greatest breeding grounds in the world for water fowl. Up the Chandelar River, which runs into the Yukon a few miles below Fort Yukon, there are some placer diggings. This river drains from the Arctic Slope. Until the winter of 1906-07 the, only communication that the miners in the Koyukuk country had, after the freeze-up in the fall until the break-up in the spring was the United States mail packed in from Fort Yukon up the Chandelar River and over the divide to Coldfoot once a month. This often consisted o' what one man packed on his back and himself on snowshoes. The mail accumulating all winter at Fort Yukon would be picked up by first steamer in the spring and then taken down the Yukon to the mouth of the Koyukuk River and up on the steamer making trips on that river in the summer. Today the mail goes into that country, once a month from October until May, from Tanana. There is a trail with cabins, constructed from Beaver City in the Yukon Flats to Cairo, a trading post on the Chandelar River, where miners get their supplies. Over this trail in winter many miners who purchase their supplies at Beaver City sled them to the grounds they are working or prospecting. This trail was cut and the cabins built by the miners. The contents were put there by the miners, and stoves and such equipment necessarv for the traveler are in each. All travelers are welcome 156 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON to use the same; but a warning to all: Always leave fuel and shavings when you depart, as this is the custom of the country; for by so doing you may save the lives or forfeit the lives of others that may have struck a storm or had an accident. Rampart. After leaving Beaver City and the Yukon Flats, and then one of . the most beautiful stretches of the Yukon, we come to Rampart , population, 121 (1920 census), the old home of Rex Beach, and the distributing point for the various creeks which for years have produced gold. The U.S. Govern- ment has an experimental farm at this place. - From Rampart there is a road that leads through the creeks of this camp over to the Hot Springs diggings on the Tanana. Continuing down the river through Rampart Rapids the next stop is at Tanana and Fort Gibbon adjacent to the mouth of the Tanana River, the largest tributary of the Yukon. At the junction of the rivers on the right limit of the Yukon lies the Mission of St. James, Episcopalian. Chiefs in charge of the near-by tribes make this a general meeting place for the natives who are more distant and only come in for supplies about Christmas time. Tanana, population, 213 (1920 census), is a transfer point for passengers and freight from St. Michael, Fairbanks, Daw- son, and Whitehorse. Several hotels and stores are located here. The United States Government has a wireless station, also land line station, at the post, which consists of one and sometimes two companies of soldiers. The Knights of Colum- bus have one of their buildings here, where the soldiers are entertained gratis and where many of the long winter evenings are spent enjoying moving pictures and the like. From here the winter mail trail leads to the Koyukuk coun- try. Also up the Tanana to Hot Springs and Fairbanks and so on out to the coast by way of Chitina and the Copper River Railroad to Cordova. The winter trail which leads down the river to Kaltag and over the Kaltag portage to St. Michael and Nome starts from here. Hot Springs, population, 29 (1920 census). Proceeding up the Tanana River en route to Fairbanks, the head of naviga- tion on that river, the first place of interest is Hot Springs, a distributing point for the placer mines in this section. Great trading is done here by the natives in fur of as high a grade as any in the North. There is a fine farm of silver and black foxes. The starters were caught in this locality and many have been transferred to Prince Edward Island in Canada (where they took first prizes) and in the United States. RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 157 Baker Hot Springs. Here also is the Baker Hot Springs a quiet, restful place where one will enjoy the surroundings and will be well cared for. Some of the finest farms in the North are in this vicinity. Leaving Hot Springs we soon pass the mouth of the Kantishna River which drains the northern slope of Mt. McKinley of which latter there are glimpses from the deck of the steamer. At the head of this stream is the Kantishna mining district where gold was found in 1905 and which has been a steady producer ever since. Pomarine Jaeger 158 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Tolovana River drains the Tolovana gold district where several millions have been taken out in recent years. Supplies are here transferred from boats coming up the river and are pushed up the Tolovana in gas boats and scows. A mail boat runs weekly from Fairbanks (in summer) to the Tolovana. In winter the mail is handled over the new government railroad to Dunbars, thence by stage to Livengood, the town in the camp. Nenana is next, population, 634 (1920 census). The govern- ment railroad first touches navigable water here, after coming from the open port of Seward, 414 miles south, and having passed over the Alaska Range, the highest on the continent. Here are the Alaska engineering buildings, the headquarters of the organization that has been doing the construction from the north (the railroad having been built from both ends). Nenana itself is a town administered by the Govern- ment. At this point passengers, express, and mail are trans- ferred to the Government Railroad at North Nenana and are taken to Fairbanks, 56 miles over that section of completed road. Fairbanks, population, 1,155 (iQ 2 census), the head of navi- gation for the steamers olying to Whitehorse and St. Michael, is a town that in many respects resembles many of the pros- perous towns in the United States. Here are located the district court and all the administrative offices of the fourth division of Alaska, an up-to-date school, a public library, hospital, and churches; the First National Bank (a Federal reserve bank), and attractive shops ; a first-class daily paper, publishing the news from all parts of the world, received hourly over the United States Telegraph and the Radio. Fairbanks was first started in 1901 by a trader who was left there by a steamboat that had contracted to place him up the Tanana River as far as possible. The captain by mistake took what appeared to be the main river, 10 miles below Fairbanks, and came up the slough that Fairbanks is now located on. Believing he could go no further, and the season being late, he put the trader off here against his will, at the identical spot where the Northern Commercial Company, large power plant and stores are located. The following year a prospector by the name of Pedro drifted over from the Circle diggings on the Yukon and found gold on the creek that now bears his name. Thus Fairbanks was located where it now stands. The first strike of gold placed Fairbanks and the surrounding country first in the production of gold in Alaska, as it since has produced about one-fourth of all the gold mined in Alaska. Fair- banks is located in a heavily mineralized country and a RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 159 favored section of the Tanana Valley where climatical con- ditions regarding agriculture are the best. The United States Government's extensive experimental farm here has met with the greatest success. There are many fine farms which produce abundant crops of all the hardier grains and a flour mill to grind them. All kinds of vegetables do well. With the completion of the railroad this will be a prosperous farming country. There is an assay office in Fairbanks where the prospector can have assays of the different kinds of minerals he may find. The Government has also built a splendid mining and agri- culture college; indeed this town and surroundings have much to offer to those who will stay by it and take advantage of what the district offers. Trips may be taken by motor car to the gold bearing creeks in the vicinity, where the placer mining is being done. The electric plant which lights the city also serves the adjacent mining camps. Fairbanks may be reached all the year from Cordova by Copper River & Northwestern R. R. to Chitina, thence to Fairbanks: also from Seward by U. S. Gov- ernment R. R. through Nenana, and during four months in summer, steamboat service eastward from St. Michael, west- ward from Dawson and Whitehorse Yukon Territory is maintained. The first through boats down from Whitehorse usually arrive about the middle of June and the first up the river from St. Michael about July 4th. The last steamer leaves Fairbanks from either port about October ist. Leaving Tanana, we sail one hundred and thirty miles down the river to Ruby, where gold was struck in 1911, on the ICQ RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON tributaries of the Nowitna River. Here a winter mail trail leaves the winter mail trail to Nome for Opher and Iditarod. At Opher this trail connects with the winter trail to McGrath and to Wasilla on the Government Railroad, having passed through the Alaska Range and Rainy Pass. We soon pass the mouth of the Koyukuk River. Steamers of light draft take supplies to the far distant placer camp which is in the Arctic Circle. This has been known as the Koyukuk country and has been a good producer. In fact, it has always been a self-sustaining camp, no money from the outside being needed in its development, taking at all times enough gold dust out to run itself. Very little if any outside money or "Chechacko Money" as silver, gold or "paper is called, being used in the camp. Gold dust is the common medium of exchange. Ruby, population, 128 (1920 census), is located on the south bank of the Yukon River opposite the Melozi River. It is the distributing center for the Ruby mining district, situated about 20 miles to the south, with which it is connected by a wagon road. Nulato, population, 258 (1920 census), a few miles below, contains stores and a mission. For several miles down the river coal can be observed along the banks and there is no doubt that in the future this section of country will be a good producer of coal. Kaltag. Forty-eight miles below Nulato we pass Kaltag where the winter mail trail makes a cut off en route to Nome going over the Kaltag Portage and saving hundreds of miles. Anvik. The next place we pass is Anvik, population, 140 (1920 census), at the mouth of the Anvik River, where there is a store and a small mission. Holy Cross, located at the mouth of the Innoko River, maintains the largest and best mission in the north, and from this place shallow draft steamers take supplies and passengers up the Innoko River to Opher and the Iditarod camps. Iditarod, population, 50 (1920 census), is located on the Iditarod River, a branch of the Innoko, about 300 miles above the junction of the latter stream with the Yukon. During high water river steamers can reach the city, but at other seasons freight is brought in by smaller boats and gasoline launches. It is a distributing point for the Iditarod placer region. Flat, population, 158 (1920 census), the center of placer operations of the Iditarod region, is situated about seven miles from Iditarod, and is connected with the latter place by wagon RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON iei road and a wooden rail tramway, over which freight is trans- ported. Russian Mission, which is the next stop, contains a church and school of the Russian faith, also a store. Marshall, a short distance farther down the river, struck in 1911, has produced a little gold and has a fair outlook for the future. Andreaf sky, at the mouth of the Andreaf sky River is a great trading place for the Eskimos. It was used as a "boneyard" for the many river steamers of the early days, and the traveler will see abandoned ships and machinery of all kinds. As the steamer passes out of the Yukon's northern mouth, we pass a radio station called Kotlik. In this Yukon delta are large fishing concerns that put up salmon every year as the fish come in to climb the rivers to spawn. The Yukon, draining as it does a country which contains so many small glaciers at the head of the rivers that feed it, is continually washing down and casting out into the Bering Sea the silts and gravels from the uplands, making it shallow for miles out from the mouth. Across this shallow water the river steamer goes to St. Michael where connections are made with the ocean boats plying from the states. The Island of St. Michael is a military reservation, the com- panies operating stores and having docks are there by special permission of the Government. Here the traveler will see the little block house or fort of the Russians who located in 1830. He will also see the little brass cannon that was left there by them. TRANSPORTATION Personal comfort requirements on ships to Alaska compare favorably with the best coast line steamers elsewhere. Those who contemplate a summer tour should make note of the following: To see the sun shining at midnight, the departure from Van- couver or Seattle should be made about June i5th. Do not burden yourself with heavy clothing. By way of comparison it might be noted that the summer temperature of Skagway, Atlin, Dawson, and Fairbanks runs on an average from about 60 to 75 degrees, while that of cities like Chicago, New York, and St. Louis runs from 70 to 95 degrees. It is well to be provided with a medium weight overcoat or wrap, walking shoes or rubbers for any intended tramps ashore, and medium weight underwear, such as usually worn in the late spring. Cold weather in Alaska or Yukon is never encountered during the summer. You merely escape the 12 162 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Copyright by E. H. Harriman Chief's House, Deserted Indian Village, Cape Fox, Alaska RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 163 sultry heat of more southern points. The average rainfall at Dawson for the months of June, July, August, and September, covering a period of 14 years, is less than i^ inches per month. This is about half or less than the rainfall during the same months in Chicago, New York, Boston, etc. The rainfall at Fairbanks and Atlin is approximately the same as at Dawson. By all means take a camera with you. There are many interesting things worth "snapping" besides the scenery, and with a little care in exposure and focusing the result will be a most interesting pictorial record of your trip. All transportation to and from Alaska is by water. Steamships between Seattle, Wash., and all southeastern and southwestern Alaska points, and between Vancouver, Victoria, and Prince Rupert and Southeastern Alaska points are operated at all times of the year. North of the Alaska Pen- insula and on the rivers of interior Alaska navigation is closed in winter. The following steamship companies operate between Seattle, Wash., and Alaska ports: Alaska Steamship Co. to Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Thane, Treadwell, Douglas, Juneau, Haines, Skagway, Cordova, Valdez, Seward, Anchorage, St. Michael, Nome. This com- pany also operates steamers from Seward to the following ports on the Alaska Peninsula: Port Graham, Seldovia, Homer, Kodink, Uyak, Karluk, Cold Bay, Chignik, Unga, Sand Point. Coal Harbor, Belkofsky, Scotch Cap, Cape Sarichef, Dutch Harbor, Unalaska, and Nushagok. Border Line Transportation Co. to Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Treadwell, Douglas, Juneau, Thane, Hoonah, Sitka, and ports on the west coast of Prince of Wales Island. Pacific Steamship Co. to Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Thane, Treadwell, Douglas, Juneau, Haines, Skagway, Yakutat, Katalla, Cordova, Valdez, Seward, Seldovia, Port Graham, Anchorage, and Kodiak and during tourist seasons to Sitka. The Canadian Pacific Ry. (British Columbia Coast Service) operates two steamers between Vancouver and Skagway to Alert Bay, B. C.. Prince Rupert, B. C., Ketchikan, Wrangell, Juneau and Skagway. During the tourist season from about June loth to the end of August these steamers, Princess Alice and Princess Louise, call at Taku Glacier en route to Skagway. At Prince Rupert connection is made with the trains of the Grand Trunk Pacific R. R. Ships touching at Skagway connect at that port with the White Pass & Yukon Route, by rail to White Pass, B. C., 20 miles; Log Cabin, B. C., 32 miles; Bennett, B. C., 41 miles; Carcross, Y. T., 67 miles; Whitehorse, Y. T., no miles. 164 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Connection is made at McRae, Y. T., with branch line trains for Carr Glyn, Y. T., 5 miles, and Pueblo, Y. T., n miles. The White Pass & Yukon Route during the season of navi- gation operates a fleet of river steamers carrying freight and passengers between Car cross, Y. T., and Atlin, B. C., and between Whitehorse and Dawson, Y. T., 460 miles. Parlor observation cars are run on all regular trains, and dur- ing the summer season observation cars are added. The American- Yukon Navigation Co. operates steamers on the Yukon River, on an irregular schedule, between Dawson and St. Michael. Service begins about June 5th and ends about October ist. Ships calling at Cordova connect there with the Copper River & Northwestern Ry. for Eyak, 8 miles, Miles Glacier, 49 miles, Chitina, 131 miles, Strelna, 146 miles, Shushana Junction, 191 miles, and Kennecott, 197 miles. Ships making Seward or Anchorage connect with the U. S. Government Alaska R R. for Fairbanks, 508 miles. Stations en route are Roosevelt, 23 miles, Hunter, 40 miles, Kern, 71 miles, Anchorage, 114 miles, Matanuska, 151 miles, Houston, 175 miles, Talkeetna, 227 miles, Deadhorse, 249 miles, Gold Creek, 264 miles, Chulitna, 275 miles. Branch from Matanuska to Eska, 21 miles, and Chickaloon, 38 miles. Steamers touching at Nome and St. Michael connect with the American-Yukon Navigation Company steamboats, oper- ating from St. Michael up the Yukon River and its tributaries as far as Dawson, affording passenger, mail, express and freight service between Dawson and St. Michael and intermediate points as well as all points reached by steamers on the Koyukuk, Iditarod, and Innoko rivers in Alaska. The last sailing from Seattle for up the river is not later than August icth. The Yukon closes in the early fall. BAGGAGE The usual free allowance of 150 pounds of baggage on whole tickets and 7 5 pounds on half tickets is accorded by the steam- ships plying to and from Alaska. Passengers entering Alaska from Canada are required to pass the customary United States Immigration inspection. A similar requirement is made by the Canadian Government when passing from Alaska into Canada. In either direction, the immigration authorities of both countries are very courteous, and do their work with a mini- mum of annoyance or inconvenience to tourists. Passengers holding through tickets via Canadian Pacific R. R. and making Alaska side trip will be granted free storage RAND M9NALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 165 of baggage at steamship companies' wharves, at point of em- barkation for not more than 30 days, after which regular charges will accrue. Bonded baggage requirements vary, depending on the rail and ship lines traveled by the passenger. Baggage checked from Vancouver or Victoria to Skagway will be inspected by United States Customs officers at Ketchi- kan or may be forwarded in bond. Southbound, Canadian Customs baggage inspection is made at Prince Rupert, and United States Customs inspection at Vancouver (if passenger is traveling east via Canadian Pacific) or at Seattle. Baggage can be checked through from Puget Sound and British Columbia ports to Atlin or Dawson via White Pass & Yukon Route, without inspection of customs officers at Skag- way, provided passengers hold through tickets; and after it is once checked at starting point, passengers are not annoyed by inspection or re-checking until arrival at destination, where all baggage from the United States is subject to inspection. Baggage originating at British Columbia points may be sealed and sent through Alaska in bond without inspection. The same privilege is accorded in the opposite direction. LOCAL ALASKA STEAMER AND MOTOR BOAT SERVICE Ketchikan to Prince of Wales Island, Hyder, and other local points. Wrangell to Prince of Wales Island and other near-by localities. Petersburg to the south end of Baranof Island. Juneau, westerly to Sitka, and northerly to Skagway. Valdez and Cordova to points on Prince William Sound. The principal river service on the Yukon, Koyukuk, Innoko, and Iditarod rivers is handled by the White Pass & Yukon Route and its connections. Fairbanks has a local fleet of about five steamers operating to near-by points on the Tanana River. On the Iditarod River there is a local service of about six boats between Dishna and Iditarod. On the Innoko River there is a local service of about three boats operating in the upper and shallow portions of the river. The Kuskokwim River service is furnished by two steamers operated by the Alaska Rivers Navigation Company and the Kuskokwim Commercial Company. A launch is scheduled to make monthly trips between Seward and Alaska Peninsula points via Kodiak. 166 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Tramp transportation is furnished by small steamers and power boats to practically all new fields on tributaries of the Yukon. Fairbanks, Tanana, Ruby, and Iditarod are the principal headquarters. Two steamers are operated on the Stikine River between Wrangell, Alaska, and Telegraph Creek, B. C. Power launches operate on irregular schedules between Wrangell and various points on the river. The Knik-Susitna Transportation Co. has been operating in past years at the head of Cook Inlet, Knik, Turnagain Arm and on the Susitna River, which is a tributary of Cook Inlet. "The men of my age who are in this great audience will not be old before they see one of the greatest and most populous states of the entire Union in Alaska. "I predict that Alaska within the next century will support as large a population as does the entire Scandinavian peninsula. U I predict that you will see Alaska with her enormous resources of minerals, her fisheries and her possibilities that almost exceed belief, produce as hardy and vigor- ous a race as any part of Amer- ica." THEODORE ROOSEVELT RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 171 Matanuska Branch Miles Miles Matanuska Junction o Sutton Station 19 Palmer Station 6 Granite Station 22 Moose Station 13 Castle Station 30 Junction Eska Spur. 18 Chickaloon 37 Eska Branch Miles Miles Junction Matanuska Branch ... o Eska 3 RIVER ROUTES YUKON RIVER Whitehorse to St. Michael Miles Miles Whitehorse o Ruby ,322 Dawson 460 Louden ,378 Fortymile 512 Koyukuk ,430 Eagle 561 NULATO .' ,440 Nation 614 Kaltag ,495 Circle 751 Anvik ,655 Fort Yukon 836 HOLY CROSS ,702 Beaver 888 Russian Mission ,767 Fort Hamlin 983 Marshall ,820 Rampart 1,079 Andreafsky ,879 TANANA 1,159 Hamilton ,933 Birches 1,214 Kotlik ,993 Kokrines 1,298 St. Michael 2,060 TANANA RIVER Tanana to Fairbanks Miles Miles Tanana o Nenana 198 Hot vSprings 70 Chena 263 Tolovanaf . . 133 Fairbanks 275 KOYUKUK RIVER Kaltag to Wiseman Miles Miles Kaltag o Alatna 470 Koyukuk 15 Bettles 540 Dagetkaket 175 Cold Foot 600 Hog River 315 Wiseman 620 Hughes 375 INNOKO RIVER Holy Cross, Yukon River to Diskaket, Innoko River 370 INNOKO AND IDITAROD RIVERS Holy Cross, Yukon River, to Iditarod Miles Miles Holy Cross o Dikeman 320 Mouth Iditarod River 160 Iditarod 395 172 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON KUSKOKWIM RIVER Bethel to McGrath v Miles Miles Bethel o Georgetown 260 Tuluksak 60 Sleitmutte 295 Yukon Portage 100 Andranoff 385 Kolmakof 190 McGrath 500 DAWSON YUKON TERRITORY TO Miles Miles Arlington Roadhouse 10.25 Gold Run, via Hunker, Barker Creek 90 . oo Summit and Ridge 3& 93 Blackhills, Discovery. 55 .00 Gold Run, No. 27, via Ridge Bear Creek 7 . 33 and Gold Run 44 . oo Bonanza. 13 .00 Gold Run, via Hunker, Bedrock Creek (Sixtymile) . . 65.00 Summit, Green Gulch. ... 54.25 Boucher 43 oo Gordon's Landing 172 .00 Caribou (Dominion) 31 .60 Henderson Creek, via Bo- Carmack's Forks 18.20 nanza, Calder, etc 53-5 Clear Creek (Duncan Creek Hunker Creek, Gold Bottom 18.30 District) Hunker Creek, Discovery. . . 21 . 50 Dominion Creek, Dome, via Hunker Creek, Head of. ... 26.35 Ridge 25.40 Indian River (via Calder) . . 29.25 Upper Discovery. . . 28 . 50 Last Chance 12 . 75 Caribou 31 . 60 Miller Creek (Sixtymile) ... 61 .50 Lower Discovery ... 33 . 40 Montana Creek 36 . 75 7 below Lower 34. 10 McQuesten 105 .00 92 below Lower. ... 40.60 Quartz Creek, 12 below Granville 54 oo A. Mack's 28.10 Duncan Creek 1 84 . oo Steel Creek 36.75 Eldorado, Head of I9-5O Sulphur, 36 above Discovery 30.40 Glacier Creek, Discovery. . . 58.25 Sulphur, 2 below Discovery 34.06 Gold Bottom 18 . 30 Scroggie Creek 101 .00 Gold Run, Head of (via Victoria Gulch 16.50 Ridge Wagon Rd.) 35-75 Williams, Bonanza and Ridge 31 . 66 WHITE RIVER DISTRICT Kluane Route (Summer Route) Miles From Whitehorse to Kluane (near upper end Lake Kluane) by Yukon Government wagon road 1 50 From Kluane to Jacquot's roadhouse (near lower end Lake Kluane) by trail 47 From Jacquot's roadhouse to Canyon City on White River, by trail . . 85 From Canyon City to Pan Creek, by trail 17 From Canyon City to crossing of Beaver Creek, by International Boundary 15 From Pan Creek to mouth of Beaver Creek, by trail 42 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 167 DISTANCES IN GEOGRAPHICAL MILES From Seattle via Inside Passage Miles Ketchikan 742 Wrangell 844 Petersburg < . 890 Treadwell Douglas [,018 .OIQ Juneau ,O2O Haines Skagway ,122 ,n8 Cordova . . ,=581 Ellamar Valdez.. [,646 ,674 Miles Latouche i776 Seward 1*844 Anchorage 2,158 Seldovia 2,01 1 Homer 2,026 Kodiak 2,183 Chignik 2,504 Unga 2,648 Sand Point 2,664 Belkofsky 2,750 Unalaska 2,990 Nushagak 3, 500 DISTANCES IN GEOGRAPHICAL MILES From Seattle Direct Outside Passage Miles Cordova 1,404 Valdez i,435 Seward . ... 1,418 Anchorage . . . 1,656 Unalaska i ,962 Nushagak 2,385 RAILROAD ROUTES Skagway to Whitehorse White Pass & Yukon R. R. Miles Miles Skagway o Bennett 40 . 6 White Pass 20.4 Carcross 67 . 2 Miles Bethel (Kuskokwim River) . . .2,465 Nome 2,621 St. Michael 2,623 St. Michael via Nome 2,741 Kewalik 3,087 Log Cabin 32 . 4 Whitehorse 110.4 Dogs with Packsaddles 168 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 170 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON Cordova to Kennecott Copper River Northwestern Ry. Miles Cordova o Eyak River 5.9 Alaganik 22.2 Flag Point 26.2 Katalla Junction 38.5 Miles Glacier 48 . 6 Abercrombie 54-6 Baird River 66 . 9 Bremner 78 . 1 Miles Cleave Creek 92 . Tiekel.. . . 101 , Uranatina 113 Wood Canyon I2 4-4 CHITINA 130.7 Kotsina 137 . o Strelna 146 . o Chokosna 157 . o Moose Lake 167.0 Long Lake 1 77 . o McCarthy 191 .o Kennecott 195 . 6 U. S. GOVERNMENT ALASKA RAILROAD Seward to Fairbanks Miles Seward o Woodrow Station 7 Summit Station 12 Primrose Station 1 8 Roosevelt Station 23 Trail Station 25 Moose Pass vStation 29 Johnson Station 34 Hunter Station 40 Grandview Station 45 Twentymile River 65 Kern Creek 71 Girdwood Station 75 Bird Point Siding . 82 Indian Station 89 Rainbow Station 94 Potter Creek Station 101 Campbell Station 109 Anchorage Station 114 Whitney Station 119 Eagle River Station 127 Birch wood Station 136 Eklutna Station 142 Knik River 146 Matanuska River 148 Matanuska Station 151 Wasilla Station 160 Houston Station 175 Nancy Station 181 Willow Station 186 Kashwitna Station 194 Caswell Station . . 202 Miles Montana Station 209 Sunshine Station 215 Fishlake Station 221 Talkeetna 227 Nanchase Station 231 Cache Creek 238 Lane Creek 242 Dead Horse Hill 249 Susitna River 264 Chulitna Pass 276 Hurricane Gulch 284 Honolulu Creek 288 E. Fork Chulitna River 292 vSummit Br'd. Pass 310 Cantwell River 316 Windy Creek 323 Bain Creek 327 Clear Creek 330 Riley Creek 347 Dry Creek 361 Nenana River 371 Nenana 411 Little Goldstream 420 Goldstream 429 Standard Creek 437 Cache Creek 445 Spinach Creek 451 Moose Creek 457 Happy Station 460 Ester Siding 463 Chena Junction 464 Fairbanks 468 Fairbanks Ester Siding 5 Happy Station 7 McNears Station 1 1 Fox Station 18 Gilmore Station 20 Fairbanks to Chatanika Miles o Miles Scrafford Station 26 Ridgetop Station 29 Olnes Station 34 Little Eldorado Station 37 Chatanika 39 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 173 Miles Stewart City 68 Scroggie, Mazie May & Barker 88 Clear Creek Nelson's Point & McQuesten . . 158 Mayo 230 Fraser Falls 253 *Head of rfavigation on the Pelly, Miles Mouth of White River 79 . 5 Mouth of Donjek 159-5 130 miles up White River . .209.5 Mouth of Kluane River . . . .224.5 Kluane Lake, via Donjek, etc 291 .5 Selkirk 180 MacMillan 254 Glenlyon 345 Ross River 427 Hoole Canyon** 450 Distances from Dawson along the Whitehorse-Dawson Winter Trail. , Miles Quartz (Tystad's) 28. 10 Indian River 29 . 25 Eureka Forks 43 . oo Wounded Moose 52 . oo Stewart Crossing 77 .00 Rosebud 87 . oo Stevens 99 . oo Rosebud, Right Fork .109.00 Hume's. 114.00 Selkirk (Cut-off) 134 . oo Pelly Crossing 1 33 - oo Minto 1 57 . oo Lewes Crossing (Mackay's) . 1 78 . oo Miles Carmack's 199 . oo Nordenskold (ist crossing) . .199.05 Montague 223 . oo Chico Junction 228 . oo McArthur Cut-off 242 . 60 Nordenskold (26. crossing). .243.00 Braeburn 244.60 Nordenskold (3d crossing) . .251 .60 Kynock (Nordenskold Post)266.oo Nordenskold (4th crossing) . .275 . 75 Little River 288 . 50 Tahkini River Crossing 307 . oo Whitehorse 329 . oo PRINCIPAL SUMMER AND WINTER ROADS AND TRAILS IN ALASKA SUMMER ROADS THROUGH ROUTES Haines-International Boundary 48 miles Mile 4 Hindustuki 22 Klukwan 25 Wells 28 Fish Point 39 Porcupine 48 Pleasant Camp Wasill a- Willow Creek 26 miles Mile ii Palmer Fork 17 Fishhook Inn 1 8 Archangel Fork 21 Kelly Fork 26 Willow Creek Pass Circle-Miller House 40 miles Roosevelt-Kantishna 34 miles Ruby-Long 30 miles Ophir-Takotna 24 miles Nome-Council 82 miles Mile 4 Fort Davis 12 Cape Nome 22 Safety Ferry 32 Solomon 47 East Fork 72 Fox River 82 Council Nome-Shelton (Dog Train) 87 miles Valdez-Fairbanks 370 miles Mile 10 Comfort 19 Wortmans 27 Thompson Pass 33 Ptarmigan Drop 42 Beaver Dam 52 Tiekhell 63 Ernestine 8 1 Tonsina 92 WILLOW CREEK 174 RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 1 02 Copper Center 292 Shaw Creek 1 1 1 Taslina 298 Tenderfoot 128 Gulkana 301 Richardson 140 Poplar Grove 313 Birch Lake 150 Sourdough 314 DONNELY 162 Hogan 321 Overland 1 66 Our Home 330 Munson 175 Meiers 342 Pile Driver 191 Paxson 352 1 8-Mile 208 Yost 361 9-Mule 2 1 1 McCallum 370 FAIRBANKS 220 Millers Chitina Cut-off 39 miles 2 33 Rapids Mile o Willow Creek 245 DONNELY 12 Kenny Lake 262 Beale's Cache 24 Lower Tonsina 280 McCarty 38 Chitina WINTER TRAILS Chisana-Nizina 78 miles Fort Gibbon-Wiseman . . .250 miles Gulkana-Eagle 357 miles Mile 100 Arctic City Mile o Gulkana 120 Alatna 4 Gakona 1 60 B ettles 40 Chistochena 235 Coldfoot 90 Slana River 250 Wiseman 131 Nicoleys Cabin Fort Gibbon-Kaltag .257 miles 156 Clearwater Cabin Mile 34 Kallend 1 80 Tanana Crossing 59 Nine-Mile Point. . 1 88 Lake Mansfield 99 Ruby Hot Springs 214 Lone Cabin 123 Ruby 235 Mitchells 168 Louden 250 Ketchumstuk 2 1 o Koyukuk 282 Chicken 222 Nulato 300 Jack Wade 257 Kaltag 312 Steel Creek Ruby-Ophir 153 miles 330 Liberty Cabin Mile 30 Long 357 Eagle 56 Poorman McCarty-Tanana Crossing . 95 miles 81 Lone Mountain Circle-Fort Yukon. ...... 125 miles 105 Cripple Chatanika-Circle 120 miles 153 Ophir Mile 60 Eagle Creek Nancy-Kaltag 413 miles 80 Miller House Mile 25 Susitna Station 100 Central House 44 Lake View 1 20 Circle 64 Squentna Crossing Chatanika-Chandalar . . . . 195 miles 85 Mountain Climbers Mile 1 20 Beaver 107 Happy River 195 Caro 136 Pass Creek Dunbar-Fort Gibbon 130 miles 150 Richardson Mile 32 Minto 159 Roan River 52 Tolovana 178 French Joe 80 Hot Springs 197 Peluk 1 06 Fish Lake 206 Sullivan Creek 130 Fort Gibbon 218 Solomon River Nenana-Kantishna 121 miles 235 Big River Mile 50 Knights 255 McGrath 104 Glacier 273 Takotna 1 1 4 Bartletts 2 95 Ophir 121 Kantishna 345 Dishkaket RAND MCNALLY GUIDE TO ALASKA AND YUKON 175 413 Kaltag Topkok-Candle 154 miles Ophir-Iditarod 90 miles Shelton-Candle 140 miles Takotna-Flat . 91 miles Nome-Taylor 140 miles Mile 14 Big Creek Nome-Teller 90 miles 28 Halfway Candle-Kiana 65 miles 50 Moon Creek Isaacs-Snyders 85 miles 74 Ruby Creek Unalaklik-St. Michael 65 mile 88 Otter s 91 Flat Knltag-Nome 341 miles St. Michael-Quinhagak . . .450 miles Mile 60 Old Woman Mile 60 Kotlik 90 Unalakleet 90 Fort Hamilton 112 Point Dexter 145 Andreafsky 195 Isaacs 167 Marshall 259 Cheenik 207 Bennetts 280 Bluff 225 Russian Mission 295 Topkok Head 325 Akiak 309 Solomon 350 Bethel 341 Nome 450 Quinhagak 5) 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. ;-.. ..;:? .:P - OTCB, jut 29 B!^ \lA-50rn-ll, '62 279slO)476B General Library University of California Berkeley 08953 8 1 5*8 R1 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY