WESSOR C.A, KOF01D PITCAIEN: THE ISLAND, THE PEOPLE, AND THE PASTOB; WITH A SHORT ACCOUNT CP n 0f REV. THOS. BOYLES MURRAY, M.A. v\ HECTOR OF ST. DUNSTAN-IN-THE-EAST, LONDON, AN KNOWLEDGE. "It was a chosen plot of fertile land, Amongst'wide waves set like a little nest, As if it had by Nature's cunning hand Been choicely picked out from all the rest, \ And laid forth for ensample of the best." SPENSER'S Faerie Queen PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE COMMITTEE OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION, APPOINTED BY THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE. FOURTH EDITION. LONDON: SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE; SOLD AT THE DEPOSITORY, GREAT aUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS; 4, ROYAL EXCHANGE; 16, HANOVER STREET. HANOVEK SQUAttE; AND BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 1854. GIFT OF PROFESSOR C.A. KOF01D LONDON : R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. ADVERTISEMENT. FKOM the manner in which his little book has been already received, the Author is led to think that the additional intelligence respecting Pitcairn and the Islanders, which has reached him during the preparations for a Fourth Edition, will be interesting to the Reader. July 20th, 1854. CONTENTS. PREFACE CHAPTER I. THE BOUNTY THE OBJECT OF THE VOYAGE BREAD-FRUIT ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE DEATH OF THE SURGEON DELAY AT OTAHEITE ENTERTAINMENTS ON BOARD THE BOUNTY DESERTION AND ROBBERY BY THREE SEAMEN OF THE BOUNTY FAREWELL TO OTAHEITE HUAHEINE, WYTOOTACKEE, AND ANNAMOOKA ARRIVAL OFF TOFOA MUTINY IN THE SHIP LIST OF MEN LEFT IN THE BOUNTY LIST OF MEN IN THE LAUNCH ................ 15 CHAPTER II. SCENE ON THE ISLAND OF TOFOA MURDER OF JOHN NORTON SUFFERINGS OF BLIGH AND HIS CREW FEJEE ISLANDS BLIGH'S LOG-BOOK MISERABLE ALLOWANCE PRAYERS IN THE LAUNCH ENDEAVOUR STRAITS TIMOR ARRIVAL AT COUPANG MEMOIR OF BLIGH ,31 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. LEGAL PROCEEDINGS IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE MUTINY CHURCHILL AND THOMPSON WRECK OF THE PANDORA PETER HEYWOOD AND HIS FAMILY LETTERS FKOM NESSY HEYWOOD AND OTHERS TRIAL OF THE MUTINEERS THE KING'S PARDON HONOURABLE CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEY- WOOD HIS DEATH LINES BY ONE OF HIS CREW ... 59 CHAPTER IV. CHRISTIAN AND HIS PARTY PITCAIRN's ISLAND FOLGER's ACCOUNT LANDING OF NINE MUTINEERS AND OF OTAHEI- TANS AT PITCAIRN DREADFUL DEATHS OF CHRISTIAN AND OTHERS INTOLERABLE STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIRN INTEMPERANCE REPENTANCE AND REFORMATION OF ADAMS HIS SERVICES IN THE CAUSE OF RELIGION AND MORALITY IN THE ISLAND 93 CHAPTER V. THE CHRONOMETER OF THE BOUNTY DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PITCAIRN IN 1814, AND SUBSEQUENT YEARS ACCOUNT GIVEN BY SIR THOMAS STAINES BY CAPTAIN BEECHEY EMIGRATION TO OTAHEITE IN 1831 QUEEN POMARE HER LETTER TO QUEEN VICTORIA . . . . 114 CHAPTER VI. RETURN OF THE PITCAIRN EMIGRANTS TO THEIR ISLAND IN 1833 PRESENT POPULATION OF PITCAIRN THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND LOYALTY OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR RULES AND CUSTOM .-THE ISLANDERS' DAY AT PITCAIRN RECEPTION OF VESSELS TOUCHING AT THE ISLAND HOSPITALITY TO STRANGERS MR. CARLETON's MUSICAL CLASS 134 CONTENTS. Vll CHAPTEK VII. MR. NOBBS SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE TESTIMONIES TO HIS CHARACTER AND SERVICES PROGRESS OF RELIGION IN THE ISLAND SERVICES OF MR. NOBBS REUBEN NOBBS TESTIMONIES FROM THE REV. WM. ARMSTRONG AND CAPTAIN WORTH LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS STATE OF THE SCHOOL 157 CHAPTER VIII. INVITATION TO ADMIRAL MORESBY VISIT OF AN ENGLISH ADMIRAL TO THE ISLAND HIS LETTERS, AND THOSE OF HIS SECRETARY AND CHAPLAIN THE ISLANDERS IN 1852 MR. NOBBS' S ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO MR. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS ORDINATION AS DEACON AND PRIEST 190 CHAPTER IX. THE REV. G. H. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS RECEPTION BY THE QUEEN AND PRINCE ALBERT MR. NOBBS's RETURN HOME- WARD BY NAVY BAY AND THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA AT VALPARAISO EFFORTS IN ENGLAND FOR THE ISLANDERS INTELLIGENCE FROM PITCAIRN THE FIRST COMMUNION ON THE ISLAND MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN PITCAIRN IN 1853 AID RENDERED TO THE ISLANDERS . . . 210 CHAPTER X. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE LAWS OF PITCAIRN THE ISLAND REGISTER LIST OF VESSELS MENTIONED IN THIS WORK WHICH HAVE TOUCHED AT THE ISLAND SIGNALS . 246 CHAPTER XI. SERMON PREACHED BY MR. NOBBS ON PITCAIRN'S ISLAND THE HARP OF PITCAIRN 274 ILLUSTRATIONS. BOUNTY BAT, PITCAIRN ........ Frontispiece THE BREAD-FRUIT To face p. 16 PORTRAIT OF CAPTAIN BLIGH 31 BLIGH'S GOURD, CUP, BULLET WEIGHT, &c 38 TOMB OF ADMIRAL BLIGH 58 " LOOK-OUT KIDGE," AND CHRISTIAN'S HOUSE . . . 112 CORAL ISLAND 104 PORTRAIT OF JOHN ADAMS 106 JOHN ADAMS'S HOUSE 142 FISHING BY TORCHLIGHT 147 PORTRAIT OF THE KEV. G. H. NOBBS 157 CHURCH AND SCHOOL HOUSE 187 CHART OF PORTION OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC . . . 212 JOHN ADAMS'S GRAVE . 251 PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. MUCH has been written about Pitcairn's Island ; but the subject is a very fruitful one ; and recent events have added greatly to the interest felt in the condition of the islanders. The arrival of their Pastor in England ; his admission soon afterwards into holy orders ; his desire to return, as speedily as possible, to the place of his choice ; and, lastly, his interview with the Queen, and Prince Albert, to which he was graciously admit- ted two days previous to his quitting our shores ; these things have brought to our minds the circumstances of Pitcairn, and its inhabitants, in a very striking manner. The following letter addressed to the author of this work by Rear-Admiral Moresby, C.B. Com- mander-in-chief of her Majesty's Naval Forces B X PEEFACE. in the Southern Pacific, will explain the circum- stances of Mr. Nobbs' s visit to England : "Valparaiso, August, 1852. " This will be conveyed to you by Mr. Nobbs, the pastor of Pitcairn's Island. It was not until after our departure from thence, that I found he had received a letter from you, dated the 29th of November, 1850, which, I confess, has relieved me of much anxiety on the responsibility I have taken upon myself of sending Mr. Nobbs to England. " I can most conscientiously assure you, that the state of society at Pitcairn has not been too highly described. The Bible and Prayer Book of * the Bounty,' as handed to Mr. Nobbs from John Adams, have been, and continue to be, the objects of their study, and have enabled them to withstand the innovations, that too fervid imaginations, in America and elsewhere, have thought, by their correspondence, it was their calling to effect. " The affectionate attachment of the islanders to Mr. Nobbs (who, in the triple capacity of pastor, surgeon, and teacher, is as necessary to them as their food), created some little difficulty in his leaving; but it was overcome by the PEEFACE. xi arrangement made for leaving with them our chaplain, Mr. Holman, and by my assurance that I would return their pastor to them with as little delay as possible. I hope I am not wrong in supposing that if Mr. Nobbs is found worthy of being ordained, only a short time will be required to prepare. " I think I did not mention to the Bishop of London the way in which Mr. Nobbs reached Pitcairn. It disproves the malignant stories which have been circulated. And the success * of twenty-four years' labour is an abundant proof that, under the blessing of God, he has educated in the principles of our Church, as one united family, a community whose simple and virtuous lives are so preeminent. " In 1826, he left England for the purpose of going to Pitcairn. For nearly two years, by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, India, and Australia, he sought a passage. Finally, at Callao, in Peru, he met the owner of a launch, who, on the condition of Mr. Nobbs's fitting her out, agreed to accompany him to Pitcairn. Mr. Nobbs fitted her himself, and expended what little money he possessed. The owner was in ill health : nevertheless these two left Callao by Xll PREFACE. themselves, on a voyage of 3,500 miles, which they accomplished in forty-two days. The owner died soon after their arrival. The launch was hauled on shore, and her materials used to build a house for Mr. Nobbs. " I was four days on shore at Pitcairn, in con- stant discourse with the islanders. I am convinced that the time and the opportunity have arrived for giving them a minister of our Church ; and that Mr. Nobbs is the person they wish, and the person at present best adapted for them." Amidst all the attentions which Mr. Nobbs received during his short sojourn in England, in the latter part of 1852, and which he truly appreciated, the thought of his flock at Pitcairn was evidently uppermost in his mind. Those who felt an interest in him, having heard of the virtuous habits and happy lives of the people, were less surprised at their pastor's wish to rejoin them, as soon as his errand should be accomplished. His connexion with the island is, however, of the nearest kind. His wife, a grandaughter of Fletcher Christian, is living there; and they have eleven children, all born on the island. PREFACE. xiii The mention of Fletcher Christian reminds us of the origin of the present settlement at Pitcairn's Island. Without further anticipating, therefore, the eventful history which is connected with the place, and which proves that real life may be as romantic as fiction, the author will proceed to give an account of the island, and of the troublous times which preceded the pure and peaceful condition of this singular community. Justly does it raise our wonder and gratitude to contemplate so exemplary a race, sprung from so guilty a stock. We hope and pray, that God's grace and blessing may remain upon this people ; that no evil influence may come nigh to hurt them ; and that they may still per- ceive and know religion to be the basis of their happiness. Then, happy Pitcairn, sea-girt isle ! may you long continue a living model of all that is lovely, and of good report ; and may nations not disdain to follow your example ! Lest it should be supposed by any reader, that the accounts of the present condition of the island are too delightful to be real, the author has thought it right to bring forward an array of testimony, in the statements of living witnesses of unimpeachable credit, who have XIV PKEFACE. themselves visited the spot, and become per- sonally acquainted with the people and the pastor. Admiral Moresby, who arrived in England from the Pacific, in May, 1854, and who had twice visited Pitcairn since the date of his letter quoted above, gave the same satisfactory accounts as before of the moral and religious state of the people ; though, as the reader will see, they have endured privations, the occur- rence of which will probably lead to some change in their place of dwelling. The author feels that his cordial thanks are due to the many friends, who have favoured him with the loan of original manuscripts and drawings. It also gives him much satisfaction to acknowledge the courteous manner in which the authorities at the Admiralty, both at White- hall and Somerset House, have complied with his request for particulars relating to the subject of his work. London, June, 1854. P 1 T A I B N. CHAPTER I. THE BOUNTY THE OBJECT OF THE VOYAGE BREAD-FRUIT ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE DEATH OF THE SURGEON DELAY AT OTAHEITE ENTERTAINMENTS ON BOARD THE BOUNTY DESERTION AND ROBBERY BY THREE SEAMEN OF THE BOUNTY FAREWELL TO OTAHEITE HUAHEINE, WYTOOTACKEE, AND ANNAMOOKA ARRIVAL OFF TOFOA MUTINY IN THE SHIP LIST OF MEN LEFT IN THE BOUNTY LIST OF MEN IN THE LAUNCH. IN the year 1787, his Majesty's armed ship, The Bounty, was fitted out by the English govern- ment, the command being given to Lieutenant Bligh, to proceed to the South Sea islands for plants of the bread-fruit-tree, which afforded to the inhabitants of those islands, and of Otaheite especially, the greater portion of their food. This step was taken in consequence of repre- sentations made to King George the Third, by merchants and planters interested in his Majesty's West Indian possessions. Lieutenant William Bligh, who was then about thirty -three years of age, had been sailing- master under Captain Cook, having been for four years with that great navigator in the Resolution. He was appointed in August, 1787, both commander and purser, of the Bounty, which was stored and victualled for eighteen months. Besides this provision, he had supplies of port- :1 ?01' When the Bounty arrived at Pitcairn's Island, she had on board nine Englishmen, with nine Otaheitan women, their wives ; six Otaheitan men, three of whom had wives ; and a little girl ; making twenty-eight persons who landed. This little girl, then an infant of ten months old, was afterwards the wife of Charles Chris- tian, and the mother of Mr. G. H. Nobbs's wife. The names of the nine mutineers who reached the Island in the Bounty were FLETCHER CHRISTIAN .... Master's Mate. EDWARD YOUNG Midshipman. JOHN MILLS Gunner's Mate. MATTHEW QUINTALL .... Seaman. WILLIAM M'CoY Ditto. ALEXANDER SMITH, alias JOHN ) ADAMS j Dltto - JOHN WILLIAMS Ditto. ISAAC MARTIN Ditto. WILLIAM BROWN Gardener. Christian and Young were men of good edu- cation. The former was the brother of Edward Christian, Esq. Professor of Law at Cambridge, Chief Justice of Ely, and Editor of Blacks tone's Commentaries. Young was a nephew of Sir George Young, Bart. The other mutineers who landed at Pitcairn were chiefly sailors of the ordinary class. They had not long set foot upon the island, ere it became a stage for the display of every evil passion. They were " hateful, and hating one another." During the frightful period of domestic warfare between the Europeans and the blacks, in which the former often adopted the tremendously simple rule of might against MU&DER OF CHRISTIAN AND OTHERS. right, the blacks made common cause together ; and having planned the murder of their impe- rious masters, they went, from time to time, into the woods to practise shooting at a mark, and thus became tolerably good marksmen. Their murderous plot reached the ears of the wives of the mutineers : and the females are said to have disclosed it to their husbands, just before the time appointed for the massacre, by adding to one of their songs these words, " Why does black man sharpen axe ? To kill white man." In the course of the deadly struggles occur- ring between the several parties, Christian, Mills, Williams, Martin, and Brown, were mur- dered in the year 1793 by the Otaheitan men whom they had brought to the island with them. Christian was the first who fell a victim to their revenge. Mills was the next. Adams was shot; the ball entering at his shoulder, and coming out at his neck. He fell ; but suddenly sprang up and ran. They caught him; and a blow was aimed at his head with the butt-end of a musket. This he warded off with his hand, having his finger broken by the blow. On his again escaping, he ran down the rocks towards the sea ; but his pursuers called out to him, that if he would return, he should not be hurt. He returned accordingly, and they troubled him no more. All the Otaheitan men were killed in the same year, one of them having been de- stroyed by Young's wife with an axe. As soon as she had killed the last survivor but one of the Otaheitans, she gave a signal to her husband to fire upon the remaining black, which was STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIEN. 103 done with fatal precision. This woman, Susan- nah, who afterwards married Thursday October Christian, Fletcher Christian's son, died at an advanced age in the year 1850. She was the last survivor of the Bounty. The sanguinary frays among the members of the small body of inhabitants, from the time of their landing, to 1794, have been described at different times. These painful particulars shall be passed over. One point, however, connected with the murders deserves mention, as it may serve to clear up some doubt regarding the death of Fletcher Christian. As the spot in which he was buried on the island is not known, and as a person resembling him was seen, about the year 1809, in Fore Street, Plymouth, by Captain Peter Heywood, who imagined, from a transient view, that the stranger was Fletcher Christian himself, an impression in some quarters prevailed, that he had escaped the massacre of 1793, and had returned to England. It seems that the stranger, as if recognised, had fled from Captain Heywood, who, after pursuing him for some distance in vain, felt persuaded that he had seen Christian. But the manuscript documents of the island are stated by Captain Beechey to be clear upon this matter. In 1794, when only four men, Young, M'Coy, Adams, and Quintall, were left, alive, the women of the place were seen holding in their hands the Jive skulls of the murdered white men. They were compelled, after some difficulty, to give up the heads to be buried. In that year the state of the island had become so intolerable to the women, that they 104 ELIZABETH ISLAND. resolved to brave the perils of the sea, rather than remain. They had accordingly prepared to set off secretly in a boat, which, fortunately for them, upset ; as the men who had built it probably intended it should do, as soon as it was launched ; though they had instructed the females how to steer, and had appointed one of them " the Captain." Thus ended their vision- ary voyage : and the women, foiled in their attempt to get away, again settled down in their sad and unwelcome home. Whither they had proposed to go, it is impossible to say. The nearest island to Pitcairn, nearly ninety miles to its north, is Oeno, of coral formation, a barren place, most difficult of access. The approach is so bad, owing to the reefs of coral encompassing the lagoon which surrounds the island, that when Captain Beechy, in December 1825, at- tempted to land, the boat was broken to pieces. Lieut. Edward Belcher narrowly escaped with his life, and a young lad of the party was drowned. There is also, about 120 miles from Pitcairn, Elizabeth, or Henderson's Island, so called after Captain Henderson, of the Hercules, of Calcutta. It is nearly eighty feet above the level of the sea, five miles in length, one mile in breadth, of volcanic formation, and covered with dead coral. The soil is poor and sandy. There are many trees and shrubs on the island, and it has been occasionally visited by the Pitcairn people, chiefly for the sake of the timber found there. On the occasion of their visit in 1851, they found eight human skeletons lying in caves; probably the remains of some shipwrecked M'COY, QUINTALL, AND YOUNG. 105 mariners, who, unable to procure food or water, had lain down to die. The women, in the same year in which they had endeavoured to quit Pitcairn, deliberately planned the destruction of the four men left among them. This dreadful plot was discovered in time by the men, and a partial and suspicious peace was brought about. But other horrors remained behind. In 1798, M'Coy, in a fit of delirium tremens, brought on by drunkenness, having thrown himself from the rocks into the sea, was drowned. Quintall, a violent and headstrong man, after threatening the lives of his companions, was killed by Young and Adams, who, in 1799, took away his life with an axe in self-defence. Thus, six of the mutineers were murdered, and one com- mitted suicide. Edward Young died of asthma, in 1800. Adams had been severely wounded in one of the contests that took place, but -had recovered. Only two of the fifteen men who had landed from the Bounty (Young and Adams) died a natural death. Here we may pause to reflect on the unhappy lives and dreadful deaths of men who had been guilty of a very heinous offence against the laws of God and man. Though Christian, when fixed at Pitcairn, often wore a cheerful counte- nance and manner, there is reason to believe that the remembrance of the past was deeply painful to him, and that shame and remorse, mingled with the fear of detection, weighed heavily on his mind. On the top of a high rock is a spot which he called his " look-out." Whilst many H 106 DREADFUL FATE OF THE MUTINEERS. hearts, thousands of miles off, were wounded, if not broken, by suspense and uncertainty respect- ing the fate of himself and his companions, he was either employed in surveying the ocean around him, under the apprehension of the approach of the officers of justice, or in endeavouring to control the turbulent community among whom he had irrevocably cast his lot. It may be observed, that punishment in this life often bears a startling likeness to the sin which has been committed, and which not only thus finds the offender out, but shows him that it has done so. Within the narrow limits of the island, as in the confines of a ship, Christian had enemies at hand, who harassed, and at length took away his life ; and it is a remarkable fact, that he who had raised his hand in a crimi- nal manner against his superior in command, should have suffered death from those whom he looked upon as men under his authority. Nor must it be forgotten, that one chief cause of all the quarrels and miseries of the mutineers was intemperance. M'Coy had unhappily be- come acquainted with the art of distilling. With the aid of a copper boiler, which had been taken from the Bounty, and which was altered into a still, he soon made ardent spirit out of the ti-root (Dracaena terminalis). This served to thin yet further the number of the original male settlers, until only one of them was left remaining. It pleased God to touch the heart of that one, and to make him an instrument of good to those around him. His deceased comrades had left ; - Beectey . ^ oAsvi JOHN ADAMS'S DREAMS. 107 families, who had been brought up in ignorance of their God and Saviour, all the women being Otaheitan idolaters. One Bible, and one only, which had been occasionally read by Christian and Young, remained this inestimable treasure having been rescued from the Bounty. Here was a merciful provision for guiding Adams, and those around him, in the right way, and making them wise unto salvation. It may even be hoped that the blessing had not been wholly lost upon Christian and Young. Besides the Holy Scriptures, Adams had the comfort and advantage of possessing a Common Prayer-book, one copy of which had also been recovered from the ship ; and of this he made constant use. In the year 1800, having then reached his thirty- sixth year, he found himself the only man on the island. The younger part, con- sisting of twenty children, looked up to him with reverence and affection. About ten years after this, he had two remarkable dreams, which presented to him in vivid colours his past transgressions, and the awful nature of the punishment awaiting them. In one of these dreams, he imagined that he saw an awful being approaching him, and about to thrust him through with a dart. The other vision repre- sented to him the horrors of a future place of tor- ment. These were such dreams as other persons may have had in their turns ; but they produced in him a lasting and wholesome impression, and effectually moved his conscience. May we not 1 elieve this to have been the influence of the believe th 108 JOHN ADAMS'S DREAMS. Holy Spirit, whose merciful design it was to give him a better knowledge of himself, and a sense of the justice and goodness of God, and to bring him an humble suppliant to the throne of grace, for the pardon of his sins, through the merits of a crucified Saviour? "Behold, I stand at the door and knock : if any man hear my voice, and open the door, I will come in to him, and will sup with him, and he with me." (Rev. iii. 20.) Let no one say that there is any encourage- ment to superstition in these remarks. That which is uppermost in the thoughts, though it may not have ripened into good resolutions, much less into right practice, is frequently dis- played, in a manner strong as reality, in those solemn hours when the world is shut out, and deep sleep falleth upon man. An idea, which has been presented to the mind whilst we are awake, often assumes, by reflection, and during the hours of sleep, a solemnity and importance which it did not before possess. And perhaps there are no inward admonitions more affecting, or more fruitful of good, than those which relate to our children, and to the obligations under which we are laid to conduct the young in the right way. Happy are they who are wise enough to make a good use of that which appears to have been sent to them for a good end! Adams had begun to read his Bible ; and who can tell the power given by the grace of God to the study of the revealed Word, with prayer, and to a thoughtful and candid perusal of the injunctions of the Saviour, to whom the young were objects of the tenderest regard? HIS REPENTANCE. 109 With his clearer view of the parental cha- racter, and of the coridition of his own soul, Adams became a religious man. He instructed the young people about him in the fear of God. He prayed for them, and for himself. He ob- served the rules of the Church of England, always had morning and evening prayers, and taught the children the Collects, and other por- tions of the Prayer-book, beginning with the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed. The youthful pupils took such delight in Adams's instructions, that on one occasion, on his offering to two of the lads, Arthur Quintall, and Robert Young, some compensation for their labour in preparing ground for planting yams, they pro- posed, that, instead of his giving the present held out to them, consisting of a small quantity of gunpowder, he should teach them some extra lessons out of the Bible, a request with which he joyfully complied. He exhorted the people, before going out fish- ing, or proceeding on any dangerous enterprise, to pray to God for His protection and blessing. On one occasion, he and some of the Otaheitan women went out fishing on the south side of the island. The surf became heavy and broke their canoe. To ascend the precipice was impossible. Their only alternative was, as Adams told them, to commit themselves by prayer to their Maker, and swim to a rock some distance from the land, and again swim to another part of the island. This they did, and at last they all reached the shore in safety. Adams, in the latter part of his life, was very 110 SOCIETY'S EFFORTS FOR PITCAIRN. fond of reading a book published by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, entitled, " The Knowledge and Practice of Christianity ; an Instruction for the Indians, by the Eight Rev. Dr. Wilson, Bishop of Sodor and Man." The reader may feel desirous of learning how this " Instruction for the Indians " had reached the island. It is satisfactory to find, by a refe- rence to the records of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, that thirty-five years since, Pitcairn partook of the benefits conferred by that institution. In the Society's transactions of the year 1819, ten years before Adams's death, the following entry appears, under the head of the Report from Calcutta ; Dr. Middleton being then Bishop of Calcutta, and President of the Diocesan Committee : " In July last, an opportunity having occurred of communicating with the little colony on Pit- cairn's Island in the South Pacific ocean, by the departure from Calcutta of the ship Hercules for that place, the Committee were unwilling to lose so interesting an occasion of adding to the various benevolent contributions made for the use of those islanders. It having been intimated that a supply of Bibles had been furnished by another Committee, the Diocesan Committee made such a selection of other books and tracts as appeared most suited to the situation of these people, which, together with New Testaments, Prayer-books, and children's school-books, were placed under the care of Captain Henderson, accompanied by the following letter, addressed to John Adams, and the other islanders. SECRET ART'S LETTER, 111 ( To John Adams, and others on Pitcairrfs Island. 'CALCUTTA, July 15th, 1819. ' IT is with peculiar pleasure that I take an opportunity of sending to you by Captain Hen- derson, of the ship Hercules, a small stock of religious books, of which, probably, your society on Pitcairn's Island may stand much in need. They are a present from a Committee of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, established in this country ; and I am sure that the prayers of this Committee attend their pre- sent, that the books may lead to the advance- ment of you all in religious knowledge, and in Christian holiness of life. You will find books of instruction fitted for all ages ; and may God Almighty prosper you in the use of them ! c At some future time, perhaps not very dis- tant, you may find opportunities of imparting the knowledge which you acquire, to the natives of other islands, in which the name of Jesus Christ is not known ; and may become blessed instruments in the hand of God for extending the kingdom of his Son our Lord. I trust that you will eagerly seize any such occasion ; and that by the example of your own lives, and by bringing up your children in habits of piety and virtue, you will recommend the Christian religion to others, as the only means of attaining true happiness here and hereafter. The Com- mittee would be very glad to hear of the welfare of your little society; and I am, with every good wish and prayer, * Your faithful Servant, 6 J. HAWTAYNE, Joint Secretary.'" 112 RESULTS OF ADAMS'S LABOURS. Adams was no ordinary man, or he could never have accomplished the arduous task which he had undertaken to perform. His * work as a teacher must have been all the more laborious from his having had little or no in- struction in early days. He had never been at school. His brother Jonathan Adams was a waterman in London : and from him he some- times received letters directed to him at Pitcairn. Struggling against all his difficulties, John Adams gained the best and most useful kind of knowledge, and left a name the memory of which is cherished beyond the borders of his little island. He not only attended to the young, but if any of the older inhabitants wanted counsel, he gave it; if they were ill, he went and prayed with them. By a steadfast adherence to the line of duty which he had marked out for his conduct, he could not but perceive that the blessing of God was upon his labours. The fruits of good became apparent, in a place where indifference to religion, and looseness of morals had prevailed ; and when we consider the latter part of his pilgrimage, and the filial reverence with which he was regarded by his juniors, we may conclude that this island-patriarch had much to cheer and encourage him, amidst the trials and sorrows which had fallen upon him. Among the most comfortable feelings of his heart, as the end of his existence drew on, was probably the well-grounded hope that the rising generation would fear God, and keep His commandments. Looking at the improved con- dition of the people, just previously to his death, CAUSES OF ALARM. 113 which happened in March 1829, when he was sixty -five years of age, he might well have been gladdened by the prospect of the continuance among them of those firm and solid principles of true religion, which had been fixed upon a sure foundation, and which form a topic of honourable mention at this very time. Much of Adams's trouble and anxiety in former years naturally arose from the fear of being discovered and taken. In May 1795, he and his brother mutineers, having observed a ship nearing the island, in their terror hid themselves in the bush. Having, after some time, cautiously left their place of concealment, they found a knife by the sea-side, and a few cocoa-nut shells, proving that some persons had landed. The visitors however, it would seem, had not noticed any signs of houses, and had therefore proceeded on their voyage. CHAPTEE V. THE CHRONOMETER OF THE BOUNTY DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PITCAIRN IN 1814, AND SUBSEQUENT YEARS- ACCOUNT GIVEN BY SIR THOMAS STAINES BY CAPTAIN BEECHEY EMIGRATION TO OTAHEITE IN 1831 QUEEN POMARE HER LETTER TO QUEEN VICTORIA. ON Captain Mayhew Folger's departure from Pitcairn, after his visit there in 1808, in the American ship Topaz, he carried away a Ken- dall's chronometer, and an azimuth compass, both of which had belonged to the Bounty. In a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, dated Nantucket, March 1st, 1813, Folger stated that the " time-keeper," and compass had been pre- sented to him, on his leaving the island, by Alexander Smith (John Adams). He added that this time-keeper, after being in his pos- session about six weeks, had been taken from him by the governor of the island of Juan Fernandez. The compass he forwarded to their Lordships. Admiral Sir Thomas Herbert, K.C.B., M.P. for Dartmouth, in whose possession the chronometer now is, has favoured the author not only with a sight of this curious relic, but with some re- markable particulars of its history. From these particulars, it appears that this time-keeper had THE CHEONOMETEE OF THE BOUNTY. 115 been previously twice carried out Iby Captain Cook, in his voyages of discovery. In 1776, when the Resolution was in the course of equipment for her voyage, " the Board of Longitude put into the possession of Captain Cook, and Mr. King, his second lieutenant, the time-keeper which Captain Cook had carried out in his last voyage, and which had performed so well. It was constructed by Mr. Kendall, and was a copy of Mr. Harrison's."* This time-keeper was taken out again by Captain Bligh in 1787 ; and, after the mutiny on board the Bounty, was carried by the mutineers to Pitcairn's Island. According to Mayhew Folger's statement, it was in the possession of the governor of Juan Fernandez in 1808. It was afterwards sold in Chili ; and subsequently came into the possession of Alexander Cald- cleuch, Esq. of Valparaiso, of whom Sir Thomas Herbert purchased it in 1840, for fifty guineas, That officer, who then commanded the Calliope, had the instrument repaired at Valparaiso, took it with him to China, and in 1843 brought it home in the Blenheim. It was exhibited at the Eoyal Institution, Albemarle- street, in 1844. It is six inches in diameter, with three dials on its face ; one for hours, one for minutes, and one for seconds; with a massive outer silver case, made as the outer cases of pocket watches were eighty or ninety years since ; so that its appearance is that of a gigantic watch. It has " Larcum Kendall, London," inscribed on vol. * " Captain Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean in 1766/ >1. i. p. 3. Ed. 1784. 116 LETTER FROM SIR T. STAINES. the face. The same name, and the date, A.D. 1771, are engraved inside. It is at present in London, and is an object of exceeding interest to those who view it with reference to its history in connexion with the Resolution and the Bounty. But to return to Pitcairn. No further notice was taken of the island or its inhabitants until 1814, when his Majesty's ships Briton and Tagus, Captains Sir Thomas Staines and Cap- tain Pipon, being in search of an American ship of war, the Essex, which had been seizing some of our whaling vessels, arrived at Pitcairn. Adams upon this supposed that his time was come, and that he should be carried away. Although much alarmed, he did not attempt concealment, but presented himself to the offi- cers, who soon reassured him by saying that he was not to be arrested ; the time was past for that ; he had been a quarter of a century on the island, and his presence was useful to the islanders. The condition of the place and people at that date cannot be better described than by Sir T. Staines, in his own words, in a letter addressed by him to Vice- Admiral Manley Dixon : "Briton, Valparaiso, Oct. 18, 1814. " SIR, I have the honour to inform you that on my passage from the Marquesas Islands to this point, on the morning of the 17th Septem- ber, I fell in with an island where none is laid down in the Admiralty or other charts, accord- ing to the several chronometers of the Briton and Tagus. I therefore hove to until daylight, LETTER FROM SIR T. STAINES. 117 and then closed, to ascertain whether it was inhabited, which I soon discovered it to be, and, to my great astonishment, found that every individual on the island (forty in number) spoke very good English. They proved to be the descendants of the deluded crew of the Bounty, which from Otaheite proceeded to the above-mentioned island, where the ship was burnt. " Christian appeared to have been the leader, and the sole cause of the mutiny in that ship. A venerable old man, named John Adams, is the only surviving Englishman of those who last quitted Otaheite in her, and whose exemplary conduct, and fatherly care of the whole little colony, could not but command admiration. The pious manner in which all those born on the island have been reared, the correct sense of religion which has been instilled into their young minds by this old man, has given him the pre- eminence over the whole of them, to whom they look up as the father of the whole, and one family. " A son of Christian was the first born on the island, now about twenty-five years of age (named Thursday October Christian) ; the elder Christian fell a sacrifice to the jealousy of an Otaheitan man, within three or four years after their arrival on the island. They were accom- panied thither by six Otaheitan men and twelve women ; the former were all swept away by desperate contentions between them and the Englishmen, and five of the latter have died at different periods, leaving at present only 118 BRITON AND TAGUS. one man and several women of the original settlers. " The island must, undoubtedly, be that called Pitcairn, although erroneously laid down in the charts. We had the meridian sun close to it, which gave us 25 deg. 4 min. S. latitude, and 130 deg. 25 min. W. longitude, by chrono- meters of the Briton and Tagus. It is abundant in yams, plantains, hogs, goats, and fowls, but affords no shelter for a ship or vessel of any description ; neither could a ship water there without great difficulty. " I cannot refrain from offering my opinion that it is well worthy the attention of our laud- able religious Societies, particularly that for propagating the Christian religion, the whole of the inhabitants speaking the Otaheitan tongue as well as English. During the whole of the time they have been on the island, only one ship has ever communicated with them, which took place about six years since, by an American ship called the Topaz, of Boston, May hew Folger, master. The island is completely iron- bound, with rocky shores, and landing in boats at all times difficult, although safe to approach within a short distance in a ship. (Signed) "T. STAINES." It is rather remarkable, that in this letter John Adams should have been styled a " vene- rable old man," as he was then only fifty years of age. But he had suffered much anxiety ; for a long period of his life he had been a stranger to security; and his weather-beaten face bore marks of a more advanced age than that which BEITON AND TAGUS. 119 he had attained. He is mentioned in Bligh's description, as very much pitted with the small- pox, and " tattowed on his "body, legs, arms, and feet." As the real position of the island was ascer- tained to be far distant from that in which it had been usually laid down in the charts, and as Sir T. Staines and Captain Pipon seem to have still considered it as uninhabited, they were not a little surprised, on approaching its shores, to behold plantations regularly laid out, and huts or houses, more neatly constructed than those of the Marquesas Islands. When about two miles from the landing-place, some natives were observed bringing down their canoes on their shoulders, dashing through a heavy surf, and paddling off to the ships; but the astonishment of our sailors was unbounded on hearing one of the natives, on approaching the ship, call out in the English language, " Won't you heave us a rope, now?" The first man who got on board the Briton soon proved who they were. His name, he said, was Thursday October Christian, the first born on the island,* son of Fletcher Christian. He was then about twenty-five years of age, a fine young man, about six feet high, his hair deep black, his countenance open and interesting, of a brownish cast, but free from all that mixture of a reddish tint which prevails on the Pacific islands; his only dress was a piece of cloth round his loins, and a straw hat, ornamented * He was born on a Thursday in October. 120 INTERVIEW WITH ADAMS. with the black feathers of the domestic fowl, " With a great share of good humour," says Captain Pipon, " we were glad to trace in his benevolent countenance all the features of an honest English face.- I must confess," he con- tinues, " I could not survey this interesting person without feelings of tenderness and com- passion. His companion was named George Young, a fine youth, of seventeen or eighteen years of age." If the astonishment of the captains was great on hearing their first salutation in English, their surprise and interest were not a little increased, on Sir Thomas Staines taking the youths below and setting before them something to eat, when one of them rose up, and placing his hands together in a posture of devotion, distinctly repeated, and in a pleasing tone and manner, " For what we are going to receive, the Lord make us truly thankful." They expressed great surprise on seeing a cow on board the Uriton, and were in doubt whether she was a great goat, or a horned sow. The two captains of his Majesty's ships ac- companied these young men on shore. With some difficulty and a good wetting, and with the assistance of their conductors, they ac- complished a landing through the surf, and were soon after met by John Adams, who conducted them to his house. His wife accom- panied him, an old person, blind and infirm. He was at first alarmed, lest the visit was to apprehend him: but on being told that they had been perfectly ignorant of his existence, he APPEARANCE AND DEPORTMENT. 121 was relieved from his anxiety. Being once assured that the visit was of a peaceable nature, it is' impossible to describe the joy these poor people manifested on seeing those whom they were pleased to consider as their countrymen. Yams, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, with fine fresh eggs, were laid before them; and Adams would have killed and dressed a hog for his visitors, but time would not allow them to partake of the intended feast. This interesting settlement then consisted of about forty -six persons, mostly grown-up young- people, besides a number of infants. The young- men (all born on the island) were very athletic, and of fine forms, their countenances open and pleasing, indicating much benevolence and good- ness of heart; but the young women were objects of particular admiration; tall, robust, and well formed, their faces beaming with smiles, and unruffled good humour, but wearing a degree of modesty and bashfulness that would do honour to the most virtuous nation on earth. Their teeth, like ivory, were regular and beauti- ful, without a single exception; and all of them, both male and female, had the most marked English features. We are told, moreover, in the pleasing account given in the Quarterly Review of that date : "They sometimes wreathe caps or bonnets for the head, in the most tasty manner, to protect the face from the rays of the sun; and though, as Captain Pipon observes, they have only had the instruction of their Otaheitan mothers, 'our dressmakers in London would be I 122 OCCUPATIONS. delighted with the simplicity, and ' yet elegant taste, of these untaught females. 7 " Their native modesty, assisted Iby a proper sense of religion and morality, instilled into their youthful minds by John Adams, had hitherto preserved these interesting people pure and uncorrupted. " They all labour, while young, in the culti- vation of the ground ; arid when possessed of a sufficient quantity of cleared land, and of stock to maintain a family, they are allowed to marry, but always with the consent of Adams. " The greatest harmony prevailed in this little society ; their only quarrels, (and these rarely happened) being, according to their own expression, quarrels of the mouth. They are honest in their dealings, which consist of barter- ing different articles for mutual accommodation. " Their habitations are extremely neat. The little village of Pitcairn forms a pretty square, the houses at the upper end of which are occu- pied by the patriarch John Adams and his family, consisting of his old blind wife and three daughters, from fifteen to eighteen years of age, and a boy of eleven ; a daughter of his wife by a former husband, and a son-in-law. On the opposite side is the dwelling of Thursday October Christian, and in the centre is a smooth verdant lawn, on which the poultry are let loose, fenced in so as to prevent the intrusion of the domestic quadrupeds. All that was done, was obviously undertaken on a settled plan, unlike to anything to be met with on the other islands. In their houses they had a good deal of decent AGRICULTURE. 123 furniture, consisting of beds laid upon bedsteads, with neat coverings : they had also tables, and large chests to contain their valuables and clothing, which is made from the bark of a certain tree, prepared chiefly by the elder Ota- heitan females. Adams's house consisted of two rooms, and the windows had shutters to pull to at night. The younger part of the sex are, as before stated, employed with their brothers, under the direction of Adams, in the culture of the ground, which produced cocoa-nuts, bananas, the bread-fruit-tree, yams, sweet potatoes, and turnips. They have also plenty of hogs and goats; the woods abound with a species of wild hog, and the coasts of the island with several kinds of good fish. " Their agricultural implements are made by themselves, from the iron supplied by the Bounty, which with great labour they beat out into spades, hatchets, &c. This was not all. The old man kept a regular journal, in which was entered the nature and quantity of work per- formed by each family, what each had received, and what was due on account. There was, it seemed, besides private property, a sort of general stock, out of which articles were issued on ac- count to the several members of the community; and, for mutual accommodation, exchanges of one kind of provision for another were very fre- quent, as salt for fresh provisions, vegetables and fruit for poultry, fish, &c. ; also, when the stores of one family were low, or wholly expended, a fresh supply was raised from another, or out of 124 CAPTAIN BEECHEY'S ACCOUNT. the general stock, to be repaid when circum- stances were more favourable."* The name of John Adams is so closely identi- fied with Pitcairn's Island, and so much of the present happy state of the people is owing, under the Divine blessing, to him, that it is difficult to say too much on this part of the subject. The description given by Captain Beechey of Adams, as well as of the young islanders, who came out in a boat to the Blossom, when off the island in December 1825, is so graphic, that it must be quoted in his own words : " They sprang up the side, and shook every officer by the hand, with undisguised feelings of gratification. The activity of the young men outstripped that of old Adams, who was, conse- quently, almost the last to greet us. He was unusually strong and active for his age, notwith- standing the inconvenience of considerable corpu- lency. He was dressed in a sailor's shirt and trowsers, and a low-crowned hat, which he in- stinctively held in his hand until desired to put it on. He still retained his sailor's gait, doffing his hat, and smoothing down his bald forehead, when- ever he was addressed by the officers. It was the first time he had been on board a ship of war since the mutiny, and his mind naturally reverted to scenes which could not fail to produce a tempo- rary embarrassment, heightened, perhaps, by the familiarity with which he found himself ad- dressed by persons of a class with those whom * See Quarterly Review, vol. iii. p. 378, &c. DESCRIPTION OF YOUNG ISLANDERS. 125 he had been accustomed to obey. Apprehension for his safety formed no part of his thoughts : he had received too many demonstrations of the good feeling that existed towards him, both on the part of the British Government and of indi- viduals, to entertain any alarm on that head ; and as every person endeavoured to set his mind at rest, he very soon made himself at home. " The young men, ten in number, were tall, robust, and healthy, with good-natured counte- nances which would anywhere have procured them a friendly reception ; and with a simplicity of manner, and a fear of doing wrong, which at once prevented the possibility of giving offence. Unacquainted with the world, they asked a number of questions, which would have applied better to persons with whom they had been inti- mate, and who had left them but a short time before, than to perfect strangers ; and inquired after ships and people we had never heard of. Their dress, made up of the presents which had been given them by the masters and seamen of merchant ships, was a perfect caricature. Some had on long black coats, without any other article of dress, except trowsers ; some, shirts without coats ; and others, waistcoats without either ; none had shoes or stockings, and only two pos- sessed hats, neither of which seemed likely to hang long together." The following picture of filial affection, drawn by a careful and intelligent observer, is well worthy of insertion. Captain Beechey, anxious to visit the houses at Pitcairn, rather than pass another night at sea, determined to put off with 126 FILIAL AFFECTION. some of his men in boats, and to accompany Adams and the islanders on shore. He says : " The difficulty of landing was more than repaid by the friendly reception we met with on the beach from Hannah Young, a very interesting young woman, the daughter of Adams. It ap- peared that John BufTett, who was a seafaring man, ascertained the ship was a man-of-war; and, not knowing exactly why, became so alarmed for the safety of Adams, that he either could not, or would not, answer any of the inter- rogations which were put to him. This mys- terious silence set all the party in tears, as they feared he had discovered something adverse to their patriarch. At length his obduracy yielded to their entreaties ; but before he explained the cause of his conduct, the boats were seen to put off from the ship, and Hannah immediately hurried to the beach to kiss the old man's cheek, which she did with a fervency demonstrative of the warmest affection." Captain Beechey observes, that Adams on no occasion neglected his usual devotions. The old man, while on board the Blossom, slept in that officer's cabin, in a retired corner of which he fell on his knees each night, to say his prayers, and was always up first in the morning for the same purpose. Captain Beechey, who made many highly valuable notes respecting the cha- racter and customs of the people twenty-seven years since, gives the following remarkable account of them : " During the whole time I was with them I never heard them indulge in a joke, or other REVERENCE FOR THE LORD'S DAY. 127 levity; and the practice of it is apt to give offence. They are so accustomed to take what is said in its literal meaning, that irony was always considered a falsehood, in spite of ex- planation. They could not see the propriety of tittering what was not strictly true, for any purpose whatever. The Sabbath-day is devoted entirely to prayer, reading, and serious medita- tion. No boat is allowed to quit the shore, nor any work whatever to be done, cooking excepted, for which preparation is made the preceding evening. I attended their church on this day, and found the service well conducted. The prayers were read by Adams, and the lessons by Burfett ; the service being preceded by hymns. The greatest devotion was apparent in every individual, and in the children there was a seriousness unknown in the younger part of our communities at home. In the course of the Litany they prayed for their sovereign, and all the royal family, with much apparent loyalty and sincerity. Some family prayers, which were thought appropriate to their particular case, were added to the usual service, and Adams, fearful of leaving out any essential part, read in addition those prayers which are intended only as substi- tutes for others. A sermon followed, which was very well delivered by Buffett; and lest any part of it should be forgotten, or escape attention, it was read three times. The whole concluded with hymns, which were first sung by the grown people, and afterwards by the children. The service thus performed was very long; but the neat and cleanly appearance of the congregation , 128 EARL WALDEGRAVE'S ACCOUNT. the devotion that animated every countenance, and the innocence and simplicity of the little children, prevented the attendance from becoming wearisome. In about half an hour afterwards we again assembled to prayers. They may be said to have church five times on a Sunday. " All that remains to be said of these excellent people is. that they appear to live together in perfect harmony and contentment; to be vir- tuous, religious, cheerful and hospitable beyond the limits of prudence; to be patterns of conjugal and parental affection, and to have very few vices. We remained with them many days, and their unreserved manners gave us the fullest opportunity of becoming acquainted with any faults they might have possessed."* In the year 1830, the Hon. W. Waldegrave, Captain of H.M.S. Seringapatam, touched at Pitcairn's Island. The following extracts from a letter of this officer, now Earl Waldegrave, will show that the moral and religious training of the rising generation had been well attended to subsequently to John Adams's death : " Pitcairn's Island, March 17, 1830. "On the 15th of March I landed at this island, and was friendly and hospitably received by George Nobbs and all the inhabitants. My officers and men were most kindly treated at breakfast and dinner, and slept in their houses. My crew received a supply of cocoa-nuts and fruits. I had the gratification to hear William * Captain F. W. Beechey's " Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific and Behring's Straits;" a work of much interest. EMIGRATION TO OTAHEITE. 129 Quintall say part of the Catechism, and answer several questions as to his knowledge of the redemption in Christ, and of the different habits of the Jews, their sects and diseases, perfectly, clearly, and distinctly ; showing that he under- stood their meaning. I also heard two little girls repeat part of a hymn, which showed to me how well they had been instructed ; and lastly I attended at their evening prayers. I can only trust that the God who preserves this island a"nd its inhabitants from foreign injury, may keep them alive in the true faith of Jesus Christ, in purity and peace ; so that each per- son, at his death, may quit this world in the expectation of being for ever in heaven, through the merits of Jesus Christ. It was with very great satisfaction that I observed the Christian simplicity of these natives. They appeared to have no guile. Their cottages were open to all, and all were welcome to their food ; the pig, the fowl, was killed and dressed instantly ; the beds were ready ; each was willing to show any and every part of the island. Before they began a meal, all joined hands in the attitude of prayer, with eyes raised to heaven ; and one recited a simple grace, grateful for the present food, but beseeching spiritual nourish- ment. Each answered, Amen, and after a pause the meal began. At the conclusion, another grace was offered up. Should any one arrive during the repast, all ceased to eat. The new guest said grace, to which each repeated, Amen, and then the meal continued." There having been the fear of a dearth of 130 QUEEN POMARE. water at Pitcairn in 1831, the people, eighty- seven in number, were removed from the island, by order of the British Government, in the barque Lucy Anne, sent from Sydney, New South Wales. On being landed at Otaheite on March 23d, they were well received by Queen Pomare. Captain Sandilands, of H.M.'s ship Comet, in his despatch to Rear- Admiral Sir E. W. Owen, K.C.B., gave an interesting report of this case of emigration, and of the manner in which the voyagers were welcomed by Queen Pomare, who was then, and is still, the ruling sovereign of Otaheite. At her Majesty's desire, Captain Sandilands landed the people of Pitcairn at her residence, about three miles from the anchorage, where houses were provided for them, until she gave up for their temporary use a large dwell- ing belonging to herself in the town of Papiete. A tract of rich land was also marked out, as a desirable territory for their future residence. Having assembled the chiefs of the district, the Queen, in a speech, formally announced that she had assigned this land to her guests from Pit- cairn, giving directions at the same time that her people should immediately commence the construction of houses for the new comers. In showing this hospitality, she appears to have consulted her own kind disposition, and also to have endeavoured to fulfil the promises given by her father, the late king Pomare', who had pro- mised them welcome and protection in case of need. Nor was this good feeling confined to the Queen. Much regard was generally shown by the LETTER TO HER BRITANNIC MAJESTY. 131 Otaheitans, who sought out with diligence whether there might not be relations among their guests. In one instance a woman came a considerable distance, and discovered in one of the four remaining women a long-absent sister. The fact of Queen Pom are having been en- gaged in a troublesome civil war at the time of the visit of the islanders, places her kindness and attention to them in a still more pleasing light. This is the Queen Pomare, who, early in 1843, complained to her Majesty, Queen Vic- toria, of the proceedings of the French, in threatening her peace and government. There is much pathos and simplicity in the Otaheitan Queen's mode of address to her " Sister and Friend." The following are extracts from her letter literally translated: " Tahiti, January 23, 1843. " My dear Friend and Sister, Queen Victoria, Queen of Great Britain, Health and peace to you! And saved may you be by Jehovah, the Foundation of our power as Queens of our res- pective countries. We dwell in peace by the arrangements made by our predecessors. " This is my speech to you, my sister friend. Commiserate me in my affliction, in my help- lessness, in which my nation is involved with France. " The existing protectorate government of France in my dominions I do not acknowledge. I knew nothing of what my chiefs and the French Consul had done before I wrote to you by Captain Jones, I being absent at Kaiate." 132 LETTER TO HER BRITANNIC MAJESTY. After bemoaning the dependent state into which she had been thrown by French inter- vention, and the political movements of her chiefs, she proceeds: " And now, my friend, think of me, have compassion on me, and assist me; let it be powerful, let it be timely, and saving, that I may be reinstated in my government. " Have compassion on me in my present trouble, in my affliction, and great helplessness. Do not cast me away ; assist me quickly, my friend. I run to you for refuge, to be covered under your great shadow, the same as afforded to my fathers by your fathers, who are now dead, and whose kingdoms have descended to us the weaker vessels. " I renew that agreement. Let it be lasting and for ever. Let its con- tinuance extend not only to ourselves and children, but to our children's children. My friend, do not by any means separate our friend- ship. This is my true wish. " I now deliver up to you, my friend, my last effort. My only hope of being restored is iu you. Be quick to help me, for I am nearly dead. I am like a captive pursued by a war- rior and nearly taken, whose spear is close to me. The time is very nigh, when I fear I shall lose my government and my land. " My friend, send quickly a large ship of war to assist me. A French ship of war is daily expected here. Speedily send a ship of war to protect me, and I shall be saved. It is my wish that the Admiral may speedily come to Tahiti. If he cannot speedily come, I wish a QUEEN POMARE. 133 large ship of war may come just at this present time. " Continually send here your ships of war. Let not one month pass away without one, until all my present difficulties are over. " I have also at this time written a letter to your Admiral on the Spanish coast, to come to Tahiti and assist me. Health and peace to you ! may you be blessed, my sister friend, Queen of Great Britain, &c. " POMARE, Queen of Tahiti." Queen Pomare, however, and her people, were doomed to feel the power of the French, who erected a fort, commanding the entrance to the harbour of Otaheite. They have a frigate and a war-steamer anchored there, and a military force on the island. The Queen is married, and has children. She adopted Reuben Nobbs, the Pastor's eldest son, but did not remove him from the care of his parents. CHAPTER VI. RETURN OF THE PITCAIRN EMIGRANTS TO THEIR ISLAND IN 1833 PRESENT POPULATION OF PITCAIRN THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND LOYALTY OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR RULES AND CUSTOMS THE ISLANDERS' DAY AT PITCAIRN RECEPTION OF VESSELS TOUCHING AT THE ISLAND HOSPITALITY TO STRANGERS MR. CARLETON's MUSICAL CLASS. To return to the Pitcairn emigrants at Otaheite. Their health suffered in the new climate ; arid the licentious habits of the place proved distaste- ful to that well-ordered Christian community. It was owing partly to this, and partly to the love of country, which is a powerful principle at Pitcairn, tjiat the people soon found their way back to their own home. When the British ship, Challenger, touched at Otaheite in 1833, it appeared that all whom death had spared had returned to Pitcairn. Some had yielded to the temptations to intemperance. Sickness also had become prevalent among them, and had carried off twelve. Five died almost immediately after their return. Very serious consideration will doubtless be given to the subject, before any plans are adopted for the removal of the inhabitants from this island to another, on the score of necessity. Mr. Nobbs said, in the hearing of the author, that as long as two families should remain at Pitcairn, he would remain also. Captain Fan- EMIGRATION. 135 shawe, who visited the islanders in 1849, ob- served : "I could not trace in any of them the slightest desire to remove elsewhere. On the contrary, they expressed the greatest repugnance to do so, whilst a sweet potato remained to them ; a repugnance much enhanced by their emigra- tion to Otaheite about eighteen years ago." At that time, however, they had not been en- couraged by the hope, that in the event of their crops failing, or their population increasing, they might probably be transferred to some more roomy island, blest with a genial climate and a fertile soil. It will be seen, in the progress of this work, that a scarcity of provisions, followed by general illness in the island, in the year 1853, has caused a strong feeling of the necessity for a change of residence ; though George Adams, who is now fifty years old, declares that he should prefer remaining, that he may, when his time comes, be buried in the grave of his father. If found needful, a certain amount of emigration might take place, formed on the principle of serving the interests of others, as well as their own, by means of Christian instruction and ex- ample : and the good leaven, thus infused into other communities, would, with God's blessing, produce the happiest effects upon them. In the little work entitled " The Mutiny of the Bounty," it is remarked that the Pitcairners have already proceeded from the simple canoe to row-boats ; and that the progress from this to small- decked vessels is simple and natural. They may thus, at some future period, be the 136 QUEEN VICTORIA'S BIETHDAY. means of spreading Christianity and civiliza- tion throughout the numerous groups of islands in the Southern Pacific. By the last accounts received, the number of persons inhabiting Pitcairn's island was 172 : namely, 85 males, and 87 females. All are natives of the place except three : the Kev. Geo. H. Nobbs, John BufTett, and John Evans. The only surnames on the island are eight : namely, Adams, Christian, M'Coy, Quintall, Young, Buffett, Evans, and Nobbs. Brown, Martin, and Williams, had no children ; none of the Otaheitan men had any children. John Mills left no son. The original division of the island was into nine parts, between the nine mutineers ; it is now subdivided into twenty-one, the present number of families. Some little misunderstand- ings occasionally arise as to boundaries ; but these, as well as such other matters of dispute as now and then occur, are generally soon settled by the chief magistrate and the two councillors. The owners of "this sceptered isle," " This precious stone set in the silver sea," avow a hearty allegiance to the Queen of Eng- land. Her Majesty's birth-day is observed as an occasion of much joy. All the people as- semble near the church, in holiday apparel ; the bell is set ringing, and old and young unite in singing loyal songs in honour of the day. By their Pastor's account, not only the cheerful bell was heard ; but it had been usual to introduce the deep-mouthed gun to assist at the solemnity. ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND. 137 The history of this gun is curious, and, in some respects, painful. It once belonged to the Bounty, and was fished up from the bottom of the sea in 1845, with one of its companions, which had been spiked, and which was therefore useless. The better of the two, after remaining many fathoms deep for five-and-fifty years, was much honeycombed; and, when brought into play, it was generally used with caution. It has been stated above, that H. M. steamer, Virago, left Callao for Pitcairn, last winter, on an errand of kindness. She arrived at the island on the 24th of January, 1853, and the officers and such of the crew as had landed were about to take their leave. The Virago was the first steam vessel the people had ever seen, no steamer having before visited Pitcairn; and they had enjoyed, by the captain's invitation, an agreeable excur- sion in the vessel round the island. Captain Prevost had wished all farewell, and had gone on board to start for Otaheite. This was on January the 26th, when a most serious accident occurred. The magistrate, Matthew M'Coy, and two others, Charles Driver Christian, and William Evans, were employed in loading the old gun of the Bounty, to salute the Virago, on her departure. The rammer used was an old rafter, on the top of which was a nail. Whilst Matthew was in the act of ramming home the charge, the friction caused by the nail effected the explosion of the powder. He was blown away several yards from the gun, and his arm was knocked to pieces. The two other men were severely wounded. K 138 LOYALTY. Matthew's arm was carefully amputated ; but the shock to the system was too severe; and after he had lingered twelve hours in great agony, death put a period to his sufferings. He had the character of being a good man, and well prepared for death. The other two, though severely hurt, happily recovered, and were able to attend Divine service on Easter Day, March 27th. Matthew M'Coy was a grandson of Wil- liam M'Coy, the mutineer, and was about thirty- five years of age. He was married to Margaret Christian, a sister of Mrs. Nobbs, and had a large family. The old' gun has been spiked, and will never be used again. But to return to a more cheerful portion of the narrative. The scene presented by the assemblage of people on the Queen's birthday has been de- picted by a poet of their own. The following stanzas by Mr. Nobbs, in one of his national songs, produce a pleasing sketch : Ha ! that flash yon grove illuming, Long impervious to the sun ; Now the quick report comes booming From the ocean-rescued gun. Now the bell is gaily ringing, Where yon white-robed train is seen ; Now they all unite in singing GOD PRESERVE OUR GRACIOUS QUEEN ! In the year 1849, a Frenchman, of a military air, and partly military costume, arriving, with some other travellers, from the brig Fanny, was courteously received by the islanders. With the politeness characteristic of his countrymen, he soon engaged in conversation with Mr. Nobbs, LOYALTY. 139 and, in imperfect English, inquired, Whether the people of Pitcairn had heard of Prince Louis Napoleon, and the French Republic? and, as the next question, Would they enlist themselves under it ? Suiting the action to the word, he took a paper for signatures from his pocket. He was briefly answered by Mr. Nobbs's quietly pointing to the English flag, which waved in the wind over their heads ; " The flag that braved a thousand years The battle and the breeze ! " The Pastor then assured him, that they knew all about Louis Napoleon, and the French Re- public ; but that all the people on the island were faithful subjects of Victoria, Queen of England. The Frenchman again bowed, begged pardon, returned the paper to his pocket, and explained, that " he did not know Pitcairn was a colony." Though it is not a colony, it is entirely English ; and such a loyal and united commu- nity, as a whole, cannot be found in any of the colonies or dependencies of the British empire. The English union-jack is hoisted on all grand occasions ; and to England the people would look for protection, should any attempt be made to disturb their position. But who would think of disturbing so inoffensive and so poor a set- tlement ? Their leading man is a magistrate, who is elected on the first of January every year, by a general vote of males and females who have attained the age of eighteen years. Married 140 OFFICE OF MAGISTRATE. persons, both males and females, though they may be under that age, are entitled to vote. Two councillors are chosen at the same time, one elected by the magistrate, the other 'by the people. When there is any dispute to be settled, which cannot well be decided by the magistrate, or by the magistrate and councillors combined, a jury of seven is called, to whom the matter is referred. Then should it not be satisfactorily arranged, it stands over until the arrival of a British man-of-war ; and there is no appeal against the Captain's decision. During the interval the matter drops, and no ill-feeling re- mains. It is a principle with them, which was specially urged upon them by John Adams, never to let the sun go down upon their wrath. What an example is conveyed in the practical adherence to this scriptural rule ! How simple and effectual a mode of adjusting differences, and preventing the growth of malice, and all un charitableness ! " The wise will let their anger cool, At least before 'tis night ; But in the bosom of a fool It burns till morning light." The office of magistrate is not coveted: it being in some respects an invidious one. It often happens, that the person for whom this honour is designed would, rather than accep.t it, kill a hog for the public good. The duties of the magistracy are always fulfilled without fear, favour, or affection. With respect to the general appearance of DRESS AND HABITS. 141 the islanders, in their features and complexion, as well as their dress and manners, they are said to resemble the people of one of our English villages of the better order. A few of them are, however, rather darker than the generality of Europeans, partaking more of their half-Otahei- tan descent. A few words about dress. The women gene- rally wear a full petticoat, and over that a loose gown, with a handkerchief thrown over the shoulders. A wreath of flowers is often worn round the head. There are many large trees on the island, which produce small white flowers, much esteemed for their fragrance ; and of the flowers of this tree (Morinda citrifolia) , or a mixture of them with bright red flowers, the females make their wreaths. Their hair is worn in bands, and is brought up in a very becoming manner into a knot cleverly twisted behind. The men wear short trousers, the legs of which are cut off two or three inches above the knee. A shirt, and a cap or hat, complete their costume. They seldom wear shoes or stockings, except on Sundays. The people live principally on vegetables, having meat about once a-week; and each family gets fish once, and, occasionally, twice a-week. The fishing is difficult and precarious, as they have to seek the fish in very deep water, often at the depth of 150 or 200 fathoms. At the commencement of the yam-digging season, in April, when there is much hard work in prospect, and they require better food, and more of it, each family, having a hog, kills it. 142 STRENGTH AND ACTIVITY. This is the period for the people to indulge, be- yond their usual custom, in animal food. There are three burial-places on the island. The funerals are always attended by every member of the community, who is able to go out of doors, even if the deceased should be but an infant. The children are early instructed in swim- ming; and many of their sports are in the water. They also learn to thread the difficult passes of the rocks like so many young goats. The per- sonal strength and activity of the men, which are described by Captain Beechey, as he observed them in 1825, do not seem to be diminished at the present day. Lieutenant Belcher, mentioned in the subjoined extract, is now Captain Sir Ed- ward Belcher, C.B., who has gone out in H.M.S. Assistance, to the North Seas, in search of the missing crews of the gallant and enterprising Sir John Franklin. " Two of the strongest men on the island, George Young, and Edward Quintal!, have each carried at one time, without inconvenience, a kedge anchor, two sledge hammers, and an armourer's anvil, amounting to upwards of six hundredweight. Quintall, at another time, car- ried a boat, twenty-eight feet in length. Their activity on land has been already mentioned. I shall merely give another instance, which was supplied by Lieut. Belcher, who was admitted to be the most active among the officers on board, and who did not consider himself behind- hand in such exploits. He offered to accompany one of the natives down a difficult descent, in THE PITCAIRNEKS' DAY. 143 spite of the warning given by his friend, that he was unequal to the task. They, however, com- menced the perilous descent; but Mr. Belcher was obliged to confess his inability to proceed, whilst his companion, perfectly assured of his own footing, offered him his hand, and said he would conduct him to the bottom, if he would depend on him for safety. In the water they are almost as much at home as on land, and can remain nearly a whole day in the sea. They frequently swam round their little island. When the sea beat heavily on the island, they have plunged into the breakers and swum to sea beyond them. This they sometimes did, push- ing a barrel of water before them, when it could be got off in no other way; and in this manner we procured several tons of water without a single cask being stove." The Rev. Wm. Armstrong, late Chaplain at Valparaiso, and now residing in New Bruns- wick, in a letter to the author, from Valparaiso, dated October 1849, stated that an English man-of-war, the Pandora, had lately arrived direct from Pit cairn, and that the commander, Lieut. Wood, and the officers, had given the most pleasing account of the happy state in which their little community were living. They were described as a remarkably strong and healthy people. For instance, a young woman, eighteen years of age, had been accustomed to carry on her shoulders a hundred pounds weight of yams over hills and precipitous places, and for a considerable distance, where one unaccus- tomed to such exercise would scarcely be able 144 GOOD CONDUCT OF VISITORS. to scramble. A man, sixty years old, with ease carried the surgeon of the Pandora up a steep ascent from the landing-place, which he had himself in vain attempted to mount, the ground being very slippery from recent rains; and the officer being a large man, six feet high, rendered it the more surprising. Indeed, Lieut. Wood said he was himself borne aloft in the arms of a damsel, and carried up the hill with the utmost facility. From the date of the first intelligence re- specting the inhabitants of Pitcairn, there has" been no variation in the character given of them. As they were, in purity and peace, those two great essentials of human happiness, when Sir Thomas Staines visited the island, in 1814, so they are now in 1853, the same contented, kind, and God-fearing race. Nor need we feel surprise at this, however delighted we may be with the picture. They are sensible of the treasure which they possess in the Bible, and take it for their guide in the performance of their duty towards God, and their neighbour. And they have learned to estimate the value and excellency of the Book of Common Prayer, which, as a faithful exponent of the revealed word of God, has tended to keep them " in the unity of faith, in the bond of peace, and in righteousness of life." The difficulty of landing on the island, and the want of harbour and anchorage, though at first sight a disadvantage, may have proved a blessing, in preserving these simple-minded people from the baneful effects too likely to THE PITCAIRNEES' DAY. 145 arise from crews remaining, as a matter of course, among them. As it is, the behaviour both of officers and men who visit the place, is stated to be most exemplary. No encourage- ment is given to evil ; and no instance can be quoted of the transgression, on the part of visitors, of the sacred law of hospitality. On the contrary, the good habits, and moral and religious conduct of the islanders, do not fail to produce, by the power of example, a wholesome influence on strangers. If it be asked, how the people pass their time, and what they can have to do in a spot, whose utmost limit is barely four miles and a half in circumference, comprising less of extent than Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens put together, the question may be answered by a description of the Pitcairn Islanders' ordinary day. They rise early, generally as soon as it is light. As the difference of longitude between England and Pitcairn is about 130 degrees, or nearly nine hours in time, at seven in the morning with them, it is about four in the afternoon with us. Each house has early family prayer, preceded by Scripture read- ing ; two chapters of the Bible being generally selected for the morning, and one for the even- ing. After some slight refreshment, or none, (for they have only two regular meals a day,) the business of the Pitcairners' day begins. The young people are sent to school, in pursuance of a law of the island; and after the " graver hours, that bring constraint, and 146 THE PITCAIRNEES' DAY. sweeten liberty," they have their needful food, and their childish amusements. They are fond of flying kites, and of games at ball ; though the want of room on the island imposes a limit on the nature and number of the out-of-door diversions both of young and old. The occupation of the men consists in culti- vating their land ; looking after their gardens ; building and improving their houses, which are neat, clean, and commodious; rearing stock; fencing in their plantations; manufacturing hats from the leaf of the palm ; making fancy boxes, &c., which they keep in store for barter with whalers, or other vessels which may call at Pitcairn for refreshment. At about twelve o'clock they have a plain and substantial breakfast, or dinner, consisting of yarns and potatoes, made into a kind of bread, for which they do not fail to ask God's blessing, and to render Him thanks. " Hand of bounty, largely spread, By whom, our every want is fed ; Whate'er we touch, or taste, or see, We owe them all, O Lord, to Thee." HEBER. So strict is their observance of the duty of say- ing grace before and after meals, that " we do not know," says Captain Beechey, " of any in- stance in which it has been forgotten. On one occasion I had engaged Adams in conversation, and he incautiously took the first mouthful without having said his grace; but before he had swallowed it, he recollected himself, and, feeling as if he had committed a crime, imme- FISHING. 147 diately put away what he had in his mouth, and commenced his prayer." Fishing for a kind of cod, grey mullet, and red snapper, though no very hopeful pursuit in the deep water round the island, occasionally forms part of the day's employment ; nor of the day only ; for sometimes they go forth at night among the rocks close to the sea, or row out in a canoe, and taking a light, attract the fish, which they strike with a pole, armed with five barbed prongs, and so take. Suppose, however, the islander returned from his day's labour to his supper, at about seven o'clock in the evening. Except once or twice 148 NATIVE CLOTH COOKING. a-week, no fish, meat, or poultry will be found to grace the board, but yams, and sweet potatoes, and such humble fare as has been prepared by the females of the family. For the women have their daily tasks to perform ; some preparing the ground, taking up yams, and doing other work requiring diligence and strength. There being no servants, the wives or daughters make and mend the clothes, and attend to all the requisite household affairs. The women also manufacture tappa, or native cloth, from the bark of the "Ant'i," or paper- mulberry, which is rolled up, and soaked in water, and then beaten out with wooden mallets, and spread forth to dry.* The author has in his possession a piece of beautifully wrought white tappa, given him by Mrs. Heywood, and bearing a label, which states that it was made by the wife of Fletcher Christian, from the bark of the paper-mulberry-tree. The piece from which this portion was taken, was entrusted by her, when at a very advanced age, to Captain Jenkin Jones, when he visited 'the island, in her Majesty's ship Curagoa, in 1841 ; he having been desired to give it to Peter s wife. Isabella, Fletcher Christian's widow, was a native of Otaheite, and died in September, 1841. The cooking is performed by the females. Their cooking-places are apart from their dwell- ings ; and there are no fireplaces in any of the houses. Baked, not roasted, meats are the substantial luxuries of the table at Pitcairn. * For a full account of the mode of making tappa, see Cook's Voyage in 1777, &c. vol. i. p. 201. Ed. 1784. HOUSEHOLD ARRANGEMENTS. 149 Their ovens, like those at Otaheite, described by Captain Cook, are formed with stones in the ground. Captain Beechey says, that an oven is made in the ground, sufficiently large to con- tain a good-sized pig, and is lined throughout with stones nearly equal in size. These, having been made as hot as possible, are covered with some broad leaves, generally of the ti-plant, and on them is placed the meat. If it be a pig, its inside is lined with heated stones, as well as the oven. Such vegetables as are to accompany the meal are then placed round the meat that is to be dressed. The whole is covered with leaves of the ti-plant, and buried beneath a heap of earth, straw, or rushes and boughs, which by a little use become matted into one mass. In about an hour and a quarter, the meat is sufficiently cooked. There is much wisdom in the arrangement, regarding the absence of fireplaces from their wooden cottages. They are also sparing in their use of lights in general. They have no candles, but use oil, and torches made with nuts of the Doodoe-tree (Aleurites triloba). They have no glass for the windows. The shutters, which serve the purpose of admitting light and air, are closed in bad weather. For the most part pure water, but, now and then, tea, consti- tutes their drink. Cocoa-nut milk, and water sweetened with syrup, extracted from the bruised sugar-cane, vary the drinks of these temperate people. No wines or spirits are ad- mitted in the island, except in small quantities for medicinal purposes. The water which they 150 LITERATUKE. use does not come from springs, (there are none in the island,) but from reservoirs, or tanks, neatly excavated, which collect the rain. Of these there are five or six, holding from three to four thousand gallons of water each, sufficient not only for the consumption of the inhabitants, but for supplies to whalers, and other vessels. With respect to literary occupation, " You will be glad to hear," wrote Mr. Armstrong to the author, " that they are all well educated. The young men are instructed in navigation, and some of the lower branches of mathematics. They all live together in the greatest harmony, and in the strictest observance of religious duties public, family, and private with every appearance of perfect freedom from all crime, and bearing the stamp of extreme innocence and simplicity. " A new regulation has been recently made for the distribution of all their books among the families, they having been before kept as public property, as it was believed they would be more read and valued in that way. Shelves have been put up in all their houses, which are very neat and comfortable, though more like ship-cabins than dwelling-houses. The reason they give for this arrangement is, that they are in the habit of walking into each other's houses with the same freedom as into their own ; and, taking up a book, will sit down and read it aloud, or not, as they feel disposed. The books of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge reached them in good time, some of which were EVENINGS AT PITCAIRN. 151 particularly suitable; there being several copies of the same work, such as the Homilies, and others." With the employment found by the inhabi- tants, in the ways of industry above described, and the advantage and amusement derived from reading for the people have many books of general literature, as well as publications of a directly religious character the day cannot be said to hang heavy on their hands in Pitcairn's Island. " How various his employment whom the world Calls idle, and who justly in return Esteems that busy world an idler too ! Friends, books, a garden, and perhaps his pen, Delightful industry enjoy'd at home, And nature in her cultivated trim Dress'd to his taste, inviting him abroad Can he want occupation who has these ? Will he be idle who-has much t' enjoy? A life all turbulence and noise may seem, To him that leads it, wise, and to be praised ; But wisdom is a pearl, with most success Sought in still water, and beneath clear skies." COWPEE. When the shades of evening draw on, the islanders, one and all, again remember Him, who is about their path and about their bed, and spieth out all their ways. Nor are they slow to acknowledge His claims, who expects the grateful homage of His intelligent creatures, and whose protection and blessing they beg in family worship, before they lie down to sleep. And then, without any thought of locks, bolts, or bars, for they have no such defences, nor any need of them, each may feel at night a 152 ARRIVAL OF SHIPS. happy confidence in the protection and blessing of that gracious Lord, who has guided and pre- served them through the day. " Guarded by Thee, I lay me down, My sweet repose to take ; For I through Thee securely sleep, Through Thee in safety wake." But if they are active and cheerful on com- mon days, how great is their pleasure on descry- ing from the "Look-out Ridge" of their sea- girt rock, a sail on the edge of the horizon. How different are the feelings of the present islanders from those which possessed the inha- bitants fifty or sixty years since ! Then they sought a place of concealment, when they per- ceived a vessel heave in view ; now they rejoice at the sight. A short account of the reception of a ship on their shores will interest the reader. It is customary for each family, in turn, to have the privilege of receiving as their guest the captain of any vessel, whether a man-of-war, or a whaler, which may happen to arrive. On her appearance sufficiently near, the master of the house, whose turn it is to be the host, goes off in a canoe, and, after satisfactory answers to questions as to the health of those on board, he ascends the ship's side ; the canoe, which is but a light affair, being quickly hauled up after him. Most important are these inquiries ; for if the small-pox, or any other infectious disorder, should find its way into the island, dreadful indeed would be the result. But when it is CONSIGNMENT OF GOODS. 153 " all right," the ship's boat being lowered, the captain r and five or six men, conducted by the islander, who steers in the difficult parts, proceed to Bounty Bay. Some persons are always ready on the rocks to give a signal for the safe entrance of the boat, without which precaution serious accidents would frequently occur. The captain and his company having safely landed, are at once greeted, and attended by a number of the natives, who have descended from the village to the little beach. All then ascend the hill ; and the first walk is usually to the school- house, where the strangers obtain a sight of the island-register, and examine the shipping-list, in which they enter the name of their own vessel ; whence she has come, and whither she is bound. After some preliminary conversation, the repre- sentatives of the several families, one at least from each house, assemble ; and after a hearty welcome, and the interchange of friendly expres- sions, inquire what is wanted for the vessel, as to vegetables, refreshments, &c. A list is handed in of the articles in demand, such as yams, sweet potatoes, &c., the price of these goods -being always the same in time of scarcity as of plenty. The inhabitants then, in their turn, inquire of the captain, what he has to dispose of. This is generally found to be coarse cotton cloths, soap, oil, &c., with perhaps some small quantities of lead, or iron. While the captain is engaged in conversation with the teacher, on matters of mutual and general interest, the health of the Queen being the first in the series of questions and answers, the inhabitants retire, and consult L 154 FESTIVE OCCASIONS. among themselves what each person's proportion of the captain's wants amounts to. This being settled, each repairs to his own plantation to pro- cure his part, which, in every instance, is, as far as possible, an equal share from each family. Such is the reliance placed by visitors on the honesty and integrity of the islanders, that in no case does the captain think it necessary, either himself, or by proxy, to Ibe present at the weigh- ing or measuring of the articles required. One of the islanders is appointed to remain at the market-place, to take an account of the things sent on board; and the mode of dealing is always cheerfully acceded to by the authorities of the vessel. The articles are removed from the market-place to Bounty Bay, where they are deposited, at the captain's risk, and from whence they are conveyed in boats ; or, if the surf is heavy, the goods are packed in casks, which are conducted by the natives, who swim with them through the heavy surf to the boats lying outside the broken water. It is the custom on festive occasions, when the captain and his friends from the ship are entertained at dinner, for the women to attend upon the party at table. This is the exception to the general rule ; as, usually, when there are no visitors, the men and women in a family sit down together. But the attendance of the females on strangers, and on their own relatives, has been misapprehended by some travellers as a mark of barbarism. Now, there must be some to wait ; strangers must be hospitably served ; and the younger women do these honours of MR. CAELETON'S MUSICAL CLASS. 155 their island in the most attentive arid good- humoured manner. Here, again, the delicacy and good sense of the islanders are to be admired. It will be allowed that for husbands and brothers to be attending upon their female relatives and newly-landed guests, would be a less desirable and becoming mode than that at present adopted. In March, 1850, five passengers of the barque Noble, Captain H. Parker, bound from New Zea- land for California, were left by a mischance on Pitcairn ; the vessel from which they had landed having been blown off from the island during the night. During the three weeks of their de- tention, which turned out to be a very agreeable visit, the strangers, who had no property about them but the clothes which they had on, received every mark of sympathy and friendship. One of these gentlemen, Mr. Walter Brodie, whom Mr. Nobbs entertained as his guest, employed himself chiefly in gathering materials for an account of the island and its hospitable inhabi- tants, which was afterwards published, and to which allusion has already been made. Two of the other guests, the Baron de Thierry, and Mr. Hugh Carleton, especially the latter, applied themselves to the task of teaching the whole of the adult population to sing. Fortun- ately, the Baron happened to have a tuning-fork in his pocket ; and the people, whose efforts in psalmody in church had been noticed as some- what imperfect, caught with delight at the idea of a little musical instruction. " They proved," says Mr. Brodie, "remarkably intelligent, not one among the number being deficient in ear, 156 DETENTION AT PITCAIRN. while many had exceedingly fine voices. The progress surpassed the most sanguine expec- tations of the teacher. On the fourth day they sang through a catch in four parts with great steadiness. For people who had hitherto been unaware even of the existence in nature of Aar- mony, the performance was very remarkable." Mr. Brodie has given the names of 57 pupils being 30 males, and 27 females, as the "list of Carleton's musical class." For some time their chief musical instrument in the church had been an accordion : but they have now an organ, which has been sent to them as a present. With regard to Mr. Brodie, it is worthy of remark, that, though he had been thus detained at Pitcairn, he arrived in the barque Colonist at San Francisco, in California, twenty- eight days before the Nolle, which had been ninety-three days from Pitcairn, the crew having suffered great privations from want of provision and water. His disappointment, which appeared so grievous, in missing his ship at Pitcairn, ended in his escaping the miseries to which the people in the Nolle had been exposed, and in reckoning those few weeks on Pitcairn' s Island as among the happiest of his life. CHAPTER VII. MR. NOBBS SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE TESTIMONIES TO HIS CHARACTER AND SERVICES PROGRESS OF RELIGION IN THE ISLAND SERVICES OF MR. NOBBS REUBEN NOBBS TESTIMONIES FROM THE REV. WM. ARMSTRONG AND CAPTAIN WORTH LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS STATE OF THE SCHOOL. THE arrival of Mr. George Hunn Nobbs at Pitcairn's Island, in the year 1828, may be considered a providential occurrence for the well-being of the inhabitants. Admiral Moresby has remarked, that the success of twenty-four years' labour is an abundant proof, that, under the blessing of God, this faithful teacher has educated in the principles of our Church, as one united family, a community, whose simple and virtuous lives are so preeminent. A brief notice of his career, and of the circumstances which led him to the spot, cannot fail to be interesting, especially as he has now received the proper sanction and authority to minister as a Clergy- man of the Church of England. Mr. Nobbs, who was born in Ireland in 1799, was in his youth a midshipman in the British navy, having first gone to sea when not much ore than eleven years of age. He had been entered in 1811 on the books of H. M. S. Roe- , through the interest of Rear-Admiral 158 EAELY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. Murray, by whose means he was, in 1813, placed on board the Indefatigable, naval store- ship, the master of which was Captain Bowles. In this vessel the young sailor went to New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land. Having left Van Diemen's Land and gone to Cape Horn, and from thence across to the Cape of Good Hope, he returned, after a short stay at St. Helena, to England. He then left the navy, and, after residing at home a few months, he received a letter from his old commander, offering to procure him a berth on board a ship of eighteen guns, designed for the use of the patriots in South America. He accepted the offer, and left England early in 1816, for Valparaiso ; but the Royalists having regained possession of that place, he could not enter it .until 1817. He afterwards held a commission in the Chilian service under Lord Cochrane, now Earl of Dundonald, and became lieutenant in consequence of his services. Among other important occurrences which took place during this period, and in which Mr. Nobbs bore a part, was the courageous enterprise of cutting out the Spanish frigate Esmeralda, of forty guns, which was lying in the bay, under the batteries of Callao, in Peru. The capture was accomplished late at night on the 5th of November, 1820. An address from Lord Cochrane had been delivered to the marines and seamen, which concluded with an injunction, that the Chilenos should act with valour, " and that the English should do as they had always done, both in their own country, and elsewhere." EARLY CAREER OP MR. NOBBS. 159 A very spirited account of this remarkable transaction, the success of which surpassed all that could have been imagined, is met with in Mrs. Graham's (afterwards Lady Callcott's) " Journal of a Kesidence in Chili in 1822." Lieutenant Nobbs was also engaged in a severe conflict with a Spanish gun-brig, near Arauco, a fortress of Chili. He had been or- dered up a river near the town ; the object being to recover a quantity of property belonging to British and American merchants, which had been seized by the piratical general Benevideis. Mr. Nobbs, when in command of a gun-boat, after sustaining the loss of forty-eight men, killed and wounded, out of a party of sixty-four, was taken prisoner by the troops of that despe- rate adventurer. The prisoners were marched off to prison, and were all shot, with the exception of Lieutenant Nobbs, and three English seamen. These four, after remaining for three weeks under sentence of death, were, quite unexpectedly, exchanged for four officers attached to Benevideis's army ; one of the officers, a major, being fortunately a brother-in-law of Benevideis. Mr. Nobbs had seen his fellow-prisoners, from time to time, led out to be shot, and had heard the reports of the muskets consigning them to a dreadful death. Lady Callcott states that Benevideis was the son of the inspector of a prison, and had been a foot-soldier in the first army of the Chilenos in the cause of South American independence. From her description of his character and 160 EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. actions, a short account of which may be interesting in this place, the reader will infer, that Mr. JSTobbs's rescue from his hands was indeed a providential event. Having been made prisoner by the royalists, Benevideis entered their army, and, being taken soon after, was sent to be tried as a deserter ; but he escaped by setting fire to the hut in which he was confined, and soon distinguished himself among the royalists by his talents and bravery. Again he was taken prisoner, and sentenced to be shot in company with many others. He fell with the rest; but, though thought to have been executed, was not killed ; and he afterwards joined the patriots. Being, however, suspected and accused by their gene- ral, San Martin, of treachery, he once more turned against them ; and hence arose the atro- cities with which Benevideis is charged. He murdered his prisoners in cold blood ; and his great delight was to invite the captured officers to an elegant entertainment, and after they had eaten and drunk, march them into his court- yard, while he stood at the window to see them shot. Some, to whom he had promised safety, he delivered over to the Indians, of whose barbarous customs with regard to prisoners of war he was well aware ; and they were cruelly murdered. His cause having failed, he fitted out a privateer, to provide himself with food and ammunition; and at length, on the 1st of February, 1822, finding that he could hold out no longer, he attempted to escape to one of the EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. 161 Spanish ports in a small boat; but he was recognised, seized, and sent to Santiago, where, on the 21st, he was tried, and sentenced to death. On the 23d he was tied to the tail of a mule, dragged from prison, and then hanged in the palace-square. Mr. Nobbs, having quitted the Chilian service, after many hardships and dangers, in October, 1822, went to Naples. On his passage from that city to Messina in a Neapolitan vessel, she foundered off the Lipari Islands ; and, with the loss of everything, he reached Messina in one of the ship-boats. In May, 1823, he returned to .London in the Crescent, commanded by William Pitt, a Navy Lieutenant ; and in the same year he sailed to Sierra Leone as chief mate of the Gambia. Of nineteen persons who went out in that vessel, none but the captain, Mr. Nobbs, and two coloured men, lived to re- turn. In June, 1814, he again went to Sierra Leone, commander of the same ship, and was six weeks on shore ill with fever : but it pleased God to restore him to health in time to return with his ship, the command of which he resigned on his arrival in England. The commander of a ship in which he had sailed, had expatiated so frequently on the happiness of the people at Pitcairn, that Mr. Nobbs seriously intended to go thither, if his life should be spared ; and he set out, with this object in view, on the 12th November, 1825, in the Circassian, bound for Calcutta. He had at that period been four times round the world, and his wish was to lead a life of peace and 162 HIS ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN. usefulness to his fellow-creatures. With his mind steadfastly set on Pitcairn's Island, he was detained until August, 1827, in Calcutta ; from whence, after a very narrow escape from shipwreck in the Straits of Sunda, he crossed the Pacific in a New York ship, called the Ocean, to Valparaiso. There, and afterwards at Callao, he suffered a further detention; but ultimately he succeeded in leaving Callao in a frail bark of eighteen tons burden, having expended one hundred and fifty pounds sterling, on the vessel and her outfit. He was accom- panied by only one other person, an American, named Noah Bunker, and arrived at Pitcairn, after a six weeks' voyage, in October 1828. His companion died soon afterwards ; and the vessel afforded the materials for a house for Mr. Nobbs. John Adams received him with kind- ness; and after Adams's death in March 1829, Mr. Nobbs, who had been engaged in keeping school from the period of his arrival, was ap- pointed the teacher. When he first entered upon his charge, the number of inhabitants was only sixty-eight. From that time until August, 1852, he had been with them, through evil report and good report, as their pastor, surgeon, and school- master, with the exception of a few months during which he was absent from the island, in consequence of the intrusion of a Mr. Joshua Hill, who arrived from Otaheite in 1832. This person, who was then about sixty years of age, informed the inhabitants that he had been authorized by the British Government to reside LETTER OF MR. JOSHUA HILL. 163 at Pitcairn's Island ; when in fact he had received no such authority. Mr. Nobbs appears to have been of too plain and straightforward a character to suit this new-comer, whose pre- sence amongst the people caused much trouble, and who divided their little society into two factions; one siding. with him, the other with the constitution as it was. At length, partly by splendid promises, and partly by instilling into the simple minds around him the fear of giving offence to the Government at home, whom he affected to represent, he enlisted some of the natives against the three Europeans, and suc- ceeded in excluding them and their families, for a time, from the island. Certain misrepresentations concerning Mr. ISTobbs, which are alluded to by Admiral Moresby, in his letter contained in the Preface, took their rise at about this time. It is fortunate for any one who may have been misrepresented by Mr. Hill, that he wrote in June 1834 a long letter, full of himself and his own praises, which has been published,* and which sufficiently shows into what sort of hands the islanders of Pitcairn had fallen during the time of Hill's influence. The author cannot refrain from quoting a passage, as a specimen of this epistle : "I have visited the falls of Niagara and Mont- morency, the natural bridge in Virginia, the great Reciprocating Fountain in East Tennessee, the great Temple of Elephanta at Bombay. I have dined with a prince, as well as with a princess ; * Brodie, p. 211, ed. 1851. 164 LETTER OF MR. JOSHUA HILL. and with a count, a baron, an ambassador, a minister (ordinary and extraordinary), and have travelled with one for some weeks. I have dined with a Charge (T Affaires, and lived with consuls, &c. I have visited and conversed with ' Bed Jacket,' the great Indian warrior : I have visited and been visited by a Bishop. I have frequently partook of the delicious Hungarian wine (tolmy), Prince Esterhazy's; as also of Prince Schwart- zenburgh's old hock, said to have been 73 years old; and I was intimate with the brother-in-law of this last German nobleman. I have dined with a principal Hong merchant at Canton. I have sat next to the beautiful Madame Recamier, and Madame Carbanus, at the great dinner par- ties. I have written to the Prime Minister of Eng- land ; and have received the late Earl of Liver- pool's answer, with his thanks, &c. I was at Paris when the allies were met there. I have visited and breakfasted with the late Warren Hastings, Esq., at his seat in Gloucestershire. I have had permission with a party of friends to hunt over his grounds. Entertained, &c. two or three days at the sporting lodge of an Earl, now a Marquis. I have made a crimson silk net for a certain fashionable Marchioness, which she actually wore at her next great party of five or six hundred persons. I have danced with the Countess Ber- trand, i.e. Mademoiselle Fanny Dillon, before she married the Marshal. I was at Napoleon's coronation. I have been invited to the Lord Mayor's and to the dinner of an Alderman of London." Happily, the Hill dynasty was not destined KEMOVAL OF MR. HILL. 165 to last long. He had given out, says Mr. Brodie, " that he was a very near relative of the Duke of Bedford, and that the Duchess seldom rode out in her carriage without him."* But whilst the people listened to his magnificent accounts of himself, and his noble friends, who should arrive on their shores, in H.M. S. Actteon, in 1837, but Captain Lord Edward Russell, a son of the Duke of Bedford ! A spectre could not have been a more appal- ling visitant to the so-called relative, who would have been forthwith taken from the place by Lord Edward Russell; but this could not have been done without orders. Soon afterwards, Captain H. W. Bruce (since Admiral Bruce, Commander-in-chief on the coast of Africa) arrived in H.M. S. Imogene, and carried off Mr. Hill, landing him in 1838 safe at Valparaiso. Mr. Nobbs, during his absence from Pitcairn, was at the Gambier Islands, where he employed himself as a teacher, biding his time in patience, and employing, in his own homely and useful manner, the talent entrusted to him for the good of others. Gambier 's group, about three hundred miles W.N.W. of Pitcairn, consists of eight islands, surrounded by coral reefs, inclosing a lagoon in which there are several secure anchoring places, but which contains dangerous knolls of coral. Captain Beechey gives a pleasing account of his visit to these islands in January 1826, and of his interviews with the natives. His vessel rode afely in the lagoon, where the crew caught a * Brodie, p. 211, ed. 1831. 166 GAMBIER ISLANDS. large quantity offish. The people came out on rafts to the vessel, and were delighted with the presents which they received. One of them snatched up a small terrier dog, which was not intended for him ; and it was only by force that he was prevented carrying it away. Others wanted to possess themselves, without a title, of a large Newfoundland dog ; " but," says Captain Beechey, " he was big and surly enough to take care of himself." Of these islands, which afforded a safe asylum to the pastor, during his exclusion from Pit- cairn, the recent accounts, furnished by Captain Morshead, of H.M.S. Dido, are too valuable to be lost. That officer, who been instructed by Admiral Moresby, after leaving Pit cairn, to visit the Gambier Islands, with the view of ascertaining the capabilities of the group, as a place of call for the trans-Pacific steamers, sup- plied the following report : "On the morning of the 10th November, 1853, I stood close along the N.E. side of Crescent Isle, with Mount Duff in sight, and having got the S.W. end of Wainwright Island, on with the mountain, we carried six fathoms over the barrier reef; and passing to the eastward of Wainwright Island, anchored on the same after- noon in eighteen fathoms (sand) under Eelson Island, which, according to Captain Beechey, and the Pacific Directory, is good anchorage, and best water. I landed immediately to see the watering-place ; but it was with much difficulty that we succeeded in getting the gig over the reef, and found only a very small stream of GAMBIER ISLANDS. 167 water, not more than would run from the neck of a bottle, with a few detached wells. Before moving the ship, I went the next morning in the gig to see the water, and landing on Peard Island to the southward of Mount Duff, marked in Captain Beechey's plan, "good water." Here the landing is impracticable for a loaded boat, but we found a good stream a long way in shore, which is now divided to irrigate the tara beds, and trickles, at last over the rocks into the sea, in numerous little streamlets. The east side of the island, near the King's house, was the only place we could find fit for water- ing ; and on the following morning I moved the ship over, and anchored off the S.E. angle of Peard Island, about a mile from the watering- place, in twenty-two fathoms (sand), and a laby- rinth of coral patches all round us. By turning two streams into one, and damming it up, we were enabled to fill about three tons in two hours, and to bring off with some difficulty about ten or twelve tons daily, as the casks had occa- sionally to be thrown overboard to lighten the boat on the reef. " Not having seen any notice of these islands since 1826, I do not consider they have any natural advantages as a watering place at pre- sent ; but as water is abundant, reservoirs and tanks might easily be constructed, should they ever become a rendezvous. I found the French Protectorate flag flying on shore, and five French families, but no one in any official capacity. There are three Romish priests on the islands, Father Cyprian being at their head, who holds 168 GAMBIER ISLANDS. the king and natives in the most perfect sub- jection both temporal and spiritual. There are several stone-built houses on the island, and a handsome Romish church 200 feet long, with a double row of columns inside, and capable of containing a thousand persons : the altar is chaste and beautiful, formed of mother-of-pearl. Upon the hill on the south side of Mount DufT is a cemetery, and a convent containing one hundred nuns and sixty children, whose interval between prayers and penance is filled up by trundling a distaff, and spinning native cotton, to supply a factory with a dozen hand-looms at work. " With respect to supplies, mountain sheep, goats, hogs, fowls, and fish can be procured. Most of the tropical vegetables grow, tara and pump- kin being principally cultivated ; but onions, leeks, carrots, spinach, lettuces and cabbages, with a few European potatoes, are cultivated by the French families. Of fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, and pine apples, are abun- dant and very fine ; oranges and limes are scarce ; the paw-paw apple, and fig are also there. Wood for building and firing is scarce and bad, the bread-fruit timber being principally used. " The islands produce annually about four hundred tons of pearl-shells, and pearls about equal in value to the shells. Nearly every native had a few pearls concealed about his person, and rather over estimated their value. There were several large collections on the islands, and some very indifferent ; but a few in the possession of the king were magnificent. The population is now a little above two thousand, an epidemic GAMBIER ISLANDS. 169 having lately (according to Father Cyprian) swept off several hundreds. The natives are rather a good specimen of the Koauka race, tractable, hard-working, and expert boatmen. They were all well dressed ; and clothes, cutlery, tobacco, and soap were sought after, and readily taken in exchange for supplies. The King having ex- pressed a desire to see the ship, I received him with manned yards, and a salute, at which he was delighted; but no flag was hoisted, not being aware that the French Protectorate is either claimed or acknowledged. His Majesty was accompanied by the priests, and is a fine-looking man, above the middle age, and was dressed in plain European costume. He has a mild, in- telligeiit countenance, and I have no doubt would govern his subjects, and develop the re- sources of his islands equally well, without the assistance of the priests ; but in justice to those reverend gentlemen, I must own I found them exceedingly useful. " Stone and coral can be had for building ; the latter cutting easily, and making handsome square flags for paving their floors, &c. A sea- wall and piers are constructing, on the east side of the island, and there are some miles of hand- some paved terrace shaded by bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees. " Captain Beechey's marks for entrance and exit over the south-west and south-east passages in the Barrier reef are still good, and his plan we find very useful ; but coral patches are growing, and there are nodes on them protruding above their general level which cannot be seen from M 170 MR. NOBBS'S RETURN FROM GAMBIER. aloft till you are close over them. Our chrono- meter also agreed with the position as laid down by him. Should this ever become a halting place on the Pacific, it would require a fresh survey with lights and buoys. .The weather was very unfavourable during our stay, and our time was taken up with sounding for our passage out. It is upwards of four years since this was visited by a French man-of-war. I left here on the 19th November, and pursued our course to the southward with light winds and fair weather, and arrived at Valparaiso at noon on 15th of December." After this digression, the reader will be glad to return to the history of Mr. Nobbs. In about nine months after he had been at the Gambier Islands, the people of Pitcairn recalled him, with the other Europeans; the request for their return being accompanied by an offer of pay- ment of all their expenses ; and they returned accordingly, without further delay. Mr. Nobbs's active life in the Chilian service has been briefly noticed. On the 9th of Novem- ber, 1839, when engaged in the quiet and seden- tary, but scarcely less laborious, duty of a pastor and teacher at Pitcairn, with his youthful pupils around him, he had the satisfaction of receiving, as a visitor to the island, General Friere, ex-pre- sident of Chili, who had known him eighteen years before. What a contrast to those former scenes is afforded by the picture presented by the plain and simple words, found in the Island Register, respecting this visit ! * * See p. 253. LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS. 171 The following letter, signed by seven of the islanders, including the magistrate and the two councillors, will speak for itself. It is an answer to a communication received from the Rev. J. Moody, chaplain of H.M.S. Thalia, and since chaplain at the Falkland Islands : " Pitcairn's Island, South. Pacified) cean, "July 20th, 1847. " REVEREND SIR, We received, on the 26th of February last, by H. B. M. S. Spy, your ac- ceptable present and truly valuable letter, which, so far from giving offence, is highly appreciated, and has been deposited in the archives of the island, to be referred to at public meetings and other suitable occasions. We extremely regret the circumstances which frustrated your in- tended visit, for we should be in the highest degree delighted to have made your acquaint- ance, received your advice, and, we trust, in some measure, your approbation ; for we can assure you the report of our splitting into parties, &c. is incorrect. A few years since, a partially deranged impostor, named Joshua Hill, alias Lord Hill, came here, and made much disturbance ; but he was removed by order of the British Government. Respecting the letter of which you saw a copy in the Oahu paper, so far from expressing the sentiments of the community, not more than three persons were acquainted with its contents. The rest of us were ignorant of its existence till we saw it published in the above-mentioned paper. That part of it reflecting on our respected and 172 LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS. worthy pastor has been publicly retracted, and an apology sent down to the Sandwich Islands, to be inserted in the same paper in which the letter referred to appeared. Public worship has never been discontinued, in fact, since the death of Mr. Adams in 1829. We cannot call to mind six sabbaths in which divine worship, in accordance with the rules of the Established Church, has not been performed twice in the day. Whatever few exceptions there may have been, the cause was either the ill health of the teacher, or the unavoidable necessity of his attending on those who were very ill, or badly hurt. Moreover, we have a Bible class for the adults every Wednesday, and public school for the children five days a week. The number of children who attend school at present is fifty- three ; they are all instructed, and make good progress. We have been thus explicit in the foregoing particulars, that you may understand the actual state of affairs among us. As British subjects, to honour and obey our most gracious Sovereign, and all who are in authority under her, is our bounden duty, and we trust will ever be our privilege. " And now, Reverend Sir, we would bespeak your attention and interest for the following items : The whole community are members of the Church of England, admitted thereto in their infancy by the rite of baptism ; and the service of that Church is duly performed twice every Sabbath ; but we are much in want of Prayer-books, Psalms, and Watts' s Hymns, for public use. The procuring some for us would LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS. 173 be conferring a most essential service. Ele- mentary books for the younger classes in the school, -and Walkinghame's or other books on arithmetic for the more advanced scholars, are greatly needed. In short, the want of school requisites generally impedes the progress of the rising generation. " The next thing we would respectfully state our want of, is a medicine chest ; for there is a vast amount of sickness among us, and serious accidents frequently occur. Our teacher pos- sesses considerable skill as a physician, but his knowledge is often rendered comparatively value- less from the want of the necessary remedies. " One thing more, before we conclude, we earnestly present to your consideration ; and as it comes in an especial manner within the province of your holy office, we would indulge the hope that our application will be attended with success. The case in question is this : Our teacher, who has been with us for nineteen years in that capacity, and whose services to us are invaluable, has never received the licence or sanction of the proper authority in that Church of which we are a component part. This cir- cumstance is a source of much anxiety both to him and us ; and as our number amounts to 138 (71 males and 67 females), and is rapidly increasing, we do most urgently, but most re- spectfully, solicit your application to the proper quarter for a pastoral letter, inducting or sanc- tioning our teacher into the holy office he has for so long a space of time 'unceasingly, untiringly, and worthily, filled on this island. That he is 174 LETTER TO CAPTAIN HOPE. deserving such a mark of ecclesiastical appro- bation and favour, is justly and cheerfully ac- knowledged by the whole community ; and of the great benefit which will accrue to us therefrom, no one can be more competent to judge than yourself. " Hoping that this our public letter may obtain your favourable regard, we beg leave to subscribe ourselves, " Your much obliged, very humble Friends, " CHARLES CHRISTIAN, Magistrate. SIMON YOUNG, Councillor. JOHN ADAMS, Councillor. ISAAC CHRISTIAN. FREDERICK YOUNG. MAYHEW YOUNG. ABRAHAM QUINTALL." All these names will be recognised as those of descendants of the mutineers. Among them will be observed the name of John Adams. He is a grandson of the original John Adams, and is described by Mr. Nobbs and other com- petent judges as a young man of much talent and information. The islanders also addressed a letter to Cap- tain Charles Hope, who commanded the Thalia in the Pacific in 1844, but who was prevented, much to his regret, from paying them a visit. He, however, sent them some useful presents. These did not reach them till February 1847. In their letter of acknowledgment to Captain Hope, dated July 1847, is the following pas- sage : " Our number now amounts to one hun- PKOGRESS OF EELIGION. 175 dred and thirty-eight, and is rapidly increasing. Our teacher, who is a worthy man, and whose services are of great value to us, has never received the sanction or licence of the proper authorities in the Church, to qualify him for the very important and prominent situation he fills. He is most anxious, and we are no less so, that he should be more formally inducted into the office of pastor ; and for this purpose our humble request to you is, that you will (if it can be done with propriety) make our case known to the Bishop of London, or some other competent Dignitary, who would send a pastoral letter to our teacher, sanctioning and confirming him in the sacred office he for nineteen years has held among us." Mr. Nobbs had been between eighteen and nineteen years in the midst of the people, when the above letters were written ; and he had maintained and advanced among them, accord- ing to the teaching of the Church of England, those good principles with which the very name of Pitcairn has been so long and so happily associated. As their religion has been full of good fruits, so it has been of a quiet, sensible, and unosten- tatious kind. Inquiry having been made of Mr. Nobbs by some persons in the United States of America, a few years since, as to any instances of sudden and extraordinary con- version, which might have fallen under his notice, he replied that his experience did not furnish any such cases from Pitcairn. In an- swer to the questions put to him, he remarked, 176 RELIGION ON THE SICK-BED. in reference to the last hours of Polly Adams, which will be found noticed in a subsequent page, as well as to some other cases of dying persons : " Had inquiry been made for examples of HAPPY DEATHS, I could have replied with un- mitigated satisfaction; for I have seen many depart this life, not only happy, but triumphant. And herein is, I think, the test of the Christian character ; for when we see a person, who for a number of years has not only in word, but in deed, adorned the doctrine of God our Saviour in all things, brought by sickness or casualty to the confines of the eternal world, about to enter the precincts of the silent grave, yet with unabated energy and fervour proclaim his hope of a glorious resurrection ; when we see a per- son, Buffering the most acute pain, exhorting and encouraging others to pursue the same path he has trod, telling the love of God to his soul, and of his desire to depart, that he may enter into the presence of his Redeemer; when we witness such unwavering confidence, amid such intense sufferings, and when the sanity of the patient is undoubted, can we hesitate to say at the demise of such an one, ' Let me die the death of the righteous, and let my last end be like his !' It has been my felicity to witness several departures of this description within a few years : two from accidents, one from a cancer in the breast, one shortly after child- birth, and one from disease of the heart. All these died in the faith. Some of the diseases were lingering, others rapidly fatal ; but in all THE PASTOR'S SERVICES. 177 cases the subjects were i strong in faith, giving glory to God.' ' It is pleasing to notice the terms of respect and regard in which the teacher is mentioned in the several communications from the island. Indeed, many valuable qualities appear to be united in him for the due discharge of his office. His good common sense and plainness of speech, accompanied with an inoffensive firm- ness of conduct and manner, and that kind and Christian demeanour, without which all other important points of character in the " mes- senger of grace" are useless and unmeaning, distinguish him as the man for the situation to which it has pleased God to call him. His remuneration had for many years been wholly inadequate to the necessities of his family, and to the maintenance of that respect- able appearance which a person in such a posi- tion among the community ought to hold. For instance, in writing to a Clergyman at Valpa- raiso, in August 1844, Mr. Nobbs said, " My stock of clothing which I brought from England is, as you may suppose, very nearly exhausted, and I have no friends there to whom I can with propriety apply for more. Until the last three years, it was my custom to wear a black coat on the Sabbath ; but since that period, I have been obliged to substitute a nankeen jacket, of my own making. My only remaining coat, which is quite threadbare, is reserved for marriages and burials ; so that it is customary to say, when a wedding is going to take place, * Teacher, you will have to put on your black coat 178 THE PASTOR'S SERVICES. next Sunday/ which is equivalent to informing me that a couple are going to be married." In 1849 Captain Fanshawe said, " Mr.Nobbs appears to be very much respected by all ; and his virtuous demeanour, and careful education of the young, bear testimony to the faithfulness with which he has discharged his duty. The heads of families have obviated the necessity of his seeking elsewhere some more remunerative employment, by making over to him so much 11 IT- land as to place him, in that respect, on an equality with themselves." It will gratify the reader to learn that this worthy and humble-minded pastor has lately had a -sufficient provision made for his comfort, and suitable appearance as a Clergyman. The Rev. Wm. Armstrong, writing in 1849 respecting the islanders, reported that they con- tinued to receive much benefit from the services of Mr. JSTobbs, " as their religious teacher, their schoolmaster, and their doctor." During an epidemic which prevailed in. 1848, from the at- tacks of which not more than twenty out of one hundred and fifty escaped, Mr. Nobbs attended them from house to house, day and night, for a period of two months, with great success ; only one, an infant, having died. It also appeared that, on his proposing to accept a free passage to Valparaiso, that he might accompany thither his eldest son Reuben, and then return to his people, the whole of his adopted countrymen came and begged that it might not be so, as they could not bear to part with their pastor and friend. This appeal pre- CAPTAIN WORTH'S TESTIMONY. 179 vailed ; and, on Reuben's quitting the island for Valparaiso to settle in th world, his father gave the whole of the money he possessed, amounting to eight dollars, to his son. All the families joined in fitting the youth out to the best of their power, furnishing him with a supply of clothes, and making up altogether a purse of more than forty dollars, several contributing every cent they had. Mr.Nobbs afterwards received, by Commander Dillon, of the Cockatrice schooner, in 1851, seve- ral gratifying letters from Mr. Armstrong and Reuben. This young man, who is now about twenty-four years of age, had acquired the esteem and confidence of his employers, merchants at Valparaiso, and was much valued by all who knew him ; but it was agreed that he should return to Pitcairn's Island, in compliance with the wish of his mother, who had been very un- happy in consequence of his absence ; and thither he accordingly went in the spring of 1853. Afterwards, however, he took the opportunity of returning with Admiral Moresby in the Port- land to Valparaiso, where he resumed the duties of a responsible mercantile situation ; but his friends have since heard with deep regret, that his health has been much impaired. The late excellent Captain Worth, of H.M.S. Calypso, who visited the island in 1848, afforded the following testimony to the amiable character and the happy state of the Pitcairn islanders : " We arrived here on the 9th March (1848) from Callao, but the weather being very bad, stormy and squally, as you know there is no 180 CAPTAIN WOKTH'S TESTIMONY. landing except in a small nook called Bounty Bay, and very frequently not even there indeed, never in ship's boats, from the violence of the surf I did not communicate with the shore till the next day, when, having landed safely all the presents I brought for the inhabi- tants from Valparaiso, I landed myself with half the officers and youngsters, the ship standing off and on, there being no anchorage. I made the officers divide the day between them, one-half on shore, the other on board ; so they were gratified with visiting these interesting people. I never was so gratified by such a visit, and would rather have gone there than to any part of the world. I would write you a very long letter about them, but time presses ; and I will only now say they are the most interesting, contented, moral, and happy people that can be conceived. " Their delight at our arrival was beyond everything. The comfort, peace, strict morality, industry, and excessive cleanliness and neatness that was apparent about everything around them, was really such as I was not prepared to witness. Their learning and attainments in general edu- cation and information really astonishing ; all dressed in English style ; the men a fine race, and the women and children very pretty, and their manner of a superior order, ever smil- ing and joyous ; but one mind and one wish seems to actuate them all. Crime appears to be unknown, and if there is really true happiness on earth, it surely is theirs. " The island is romantic and beautiful ; the soil of the richest description, yielding almost CAPTAIN WORTH'S TESTIMONY. 181 every tropical fruit and vegetable : in short, it is a little paradise. I examined their laws, added a few to them, assembled them all in the church, and addressed them, saying how grati- fied I was to find them in the happy state they were, advising them to follow in the steps of virtue and rectitude they had hitherto done, and they would never want the sympathies of their countrymen (i. e. English), who were most in- terested about them. I added such advice as I thought useful, and such suggestions as would, of course, be to their advantage. It was really affecting to see these primitive and excellent people, both old and young, 140 in the whole, looking up to me, and almost devouring all I said, with eager attention, and with scarcely a dry eye amongst them ; and, ' albeit unused to the melting mood,' I found a moisture collect- ing in my own which I could scarcely restrain, they were so grateful, so truly thankful for all the kindnesses that had from time to time been shown them, and the interest in their wel- fare shown by us and our countrymen. I had all the men and most of the women on board ; but there was such a sea on, that the poor girls were dreadfully sea-sick. I fired some guns and let off rockets on the night of our departure, and they returned the compliment by firing an old honeycombed gun belonging to the Bounty. I set them completely up gave them lOOlbs. of powder, ensign and union-jack, casks of salt beef and pork, implements of agriculture of all kinds, clothes, books, &c. ; and sailed, on the evening of the llth, for Tahiti." 182 LETTER FROM MR. ARMSTRONG. Mr. Armstrong, in a letter, dated Valparaiso, Oct. 18, 1849, said : " The people tell rne they have, for the pre- sent, a good supply of books, having received a very suitable grant from the Society for Pro- moling Christian Knowledge. The whole of the books will, I am sure, highly delight them ; and, from all I hear, I have no doubt they will be prized, and made good use of." The more recent account given by Captain Morshead, in a letter to Rear-Admiral Moresby, dated Dec. 15, 1853, deserves to be added to the array of testimony to the character of the islanders. " With reference to the provisions that you entrusted to my discretion, I have left them on the island. Their yarn harvest had been a fair average ; but owing to a long drought, great fears were entertained for the potato crop, on which they are equally dependent. One whaler only had been supplied for the year, yet there was not on the island a single yam, potato, hog or goat available for traffic, although they would exchange them for an equal amount of nutri- ment in biscuit or flour. Their famine has taught them a good lesson, for in many houses I saw small parcels of biscuit tied up to the beams to await their pending scarcity. Under these circumstances, I was induced to leave the sup- plies with directions that they were to be reserved for the contingency. " It has long been their custom to leave any cases at issue for the decision of a captain of a man-of-war as a final appeal. Only one CAPTAIN MORSHEAD'S TESTIMONY. 183 was left for me to decide; it had previously been before the magistrate, and submitted to a jury, and on my confirming the opinion of their own tribunal, they all shook hands imme- diately. " I trust I may be allowed to add my testi- mony to their already established reputation for morality and virtue. With the Scriptures daily, even hourly, in their hands, it is impossible that any can act from higher principles or purer motives ; and all their impulses happily appear for good, while their goodness ever inclines them to judge charitably of the faults of others ; but so simple and confiding is their nature, that any designing person thrown among them might easily destroy their peace and harmony. It has never been my lot to witness a community more entitled to admiration and respect ; and from this estimation of their character, it is impossible to separate the credit that is due to Mr. Nobbs, who has been their friend and teacher for twenty-five years, and is now happily their spiritual guide and minister." ,Mr. Armstrong, to whom allusion has been made above, had for some years shown a warm feeling of regard for the happiness and welfare of the islanders. He had not only been instru- mental in transmitting some valuable presents by way of additions to their comforts, but had written them encouraging letters by H.M. S. Basilisk, Captain H. Hunt, which touched at the island in July 1844. He afterwards received the following pleasing letters from some of those whom he had delighted to benefit : 184 LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS. " To the Eev. William Armstrong. "Piteairn's Island, Aug. 7, 1845. "REV. SIR, Please to receive our united thanks for the presents which you have sent us. We have prepared some native commodities for you, and would have sent them by this vessel ; but the weather not being fine, and the captain being in great haste, it was delayed until another opportunity should present itself. The inhabitants are doing well ; we have a good school, and religion is in a flourishing condition ; and I trust by the grace of God it will continue to be so. God Almighty be with you, and bless you now and for ever. Amen. " Yours, " ARTHUR QUINTALL, JUN, " Chief Magistrate. " P.S. We should like to hear from you by this same man, the name of the Admiral, his character, &c." " Pitcairn's Island, South. Pacific Ocean, " Lat. 25 4' S., Long. 130 8' W. "Sept. 26th, 1844. " HONOURED SIR, Please to accept my humble thanks for your condescension and kindness in administering to our necessities, and expressing such solicitude for our welfare. I hope myself and schoolfellows will ever retain sentiments of gratitude both toward you and our other friends in Valparaiso ; and I humbly pray the God and Father of our Lord Jesus LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS. 185 Christ will have you in his holy keeping, and that after this life I may be permitted to see you all, face to face, in the presence of Him who loved us, and washed us in his own blood. To him be glory for ever and ever. Amen. " LOUISA QUINTALL." " Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean, "Lat. 25 4' S., Long. 130 8' W. " Sept. 26th, 1844. " Reverend and Honoured Sir, Please to accept my humble thanks for the interest you are pleased to take in our welfare, and also for the presents you and our other friends in Val- paraiso have sent us ; and may they and you be rewarded a thousandfold, both in a temporal and spiritual sense. And may the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the fellowship of the Holy Ghost, be with you all. Amen. " I am, Reverend Sir, your grateful Servant, " MIRIAM CHRISTIAN." From the Chief Magistrate of Pitcairn's Island to the Rev. Mr. Wm. Armstrong. "Pitcairn's Island, April 6th, 1848. " Dear Friend, Long have I heard of you, though not acquainted with you, but have often heard of your friendship towards us, Pitcairn Islanders. Now I have taken this opportunity to write these few lines to you, informing you of the state of things in our little island. We are all getting on very well. I hope that you K 186 LETTER FROM GEORGE ADAMS. and the rest of our friends are getting on well, as we are. I return you thanks for your kind letter, which I have received from H.M.S. Calypso ; also the present which is sent by you and the rest of the kind gentlemen at Valparaiso. We have received from you all such things as are very valuable to us, spades, saws, pots, and other articles. We have received them all with the greatest pleasure, and I return you all a thousand thanks for them. The presents are divided equally amongst us all, from the oldest woman to the youngest child. " Kind friend, this is the first opportunity I have had to write to you. I will thank you very much if you will take this fund of money which you will see in this paper, and buy me a few fish-hooks of the size you will see in the paper ; and also for my family's use six copies of Watts's Hymn-books, and one Family Bible. Friend, I bid you farewell. Perhaps it may not be our chance to meet in this world, but I hope we may in a better world, where saints and angels meet; and if it be our good luck to meet there, there we shall meet to part no more. I am obliged to close my letter in great haste. " I remain, your sincere friend and well-wisher, " GEORGE ADAMS, " Chief Magistrate of Pitcairn's Island." Besides these letters, the author has some neat " copies," in a small round hand, signed respec- tively by Albina M'Coy, Reuben Elias Nobbs, Miriam Christian, Eobert Buffett, Jemima Young, THE SCHOOL. 187 Martha Young, James Chester Adams, John Adams, David Buffett, Simon Young, Frederic Young. The two latter are grandsons of Edward Young, who was a midshipman on board the Bounty. These copies are from well-chosen originals, given by their master to his pupils as exercises in writing. The following are specimens : " Religion conduces loth to our present and future happiness. " Wisdom and understanding should be trea- sured in your heart. "Kingdoms and crowns must eventually be laid in the dust. " Strive to deserve tlie friendship and approba- tion of good men" There is also a leaf out of Martha Young's cyphering-book. She is now Mrs. David Buf- fett. The pages are filled with accurately finished sums in the Rule of Three, and Practice. The School-house is a substantial building, about 56 feet long by 20 wide, conveniently supplied with forms, desks, slates, books, and maps. This room is fitted up and used for the performance of Divine Service on Sundays, and such other days as are appointed on the island. At one end there is a pulpit, and a small space allotted for the use of the pastor. In a letter from some of the elder pupils to Captain Hope, in August 1847, a report is given of the school -duties and times of attendance : " We attend school five days in the week, five hours each day. Our routine of school- duties is as follows : namely. Commence with 188 SCHOOL DUTIES. prayer and praise ; conclude with the same. Monday, recital of weekly tasks, reading the Holy Scriptures, writing, arithmetic, and class spelling. Tuesday, the same as on Monday. Wednesday, reading in history and geography, transcribing select portions of Scripture, &c. Thursday, similar to Monday and Tuesday. And on Friday, which is the busiest day of the week, transcribing words with their definitions from Walker's Dictionary ; read hymns, or rather devotional and moral poetry ; repeat Watts's, and the Church Catechism; arithme- tical tables, &c. &c. ; and emulative spelling concludes the whole : we are generally an hour longer at school on this day than any other. On Wednesday afternoon the elder scholars attend the Bible class, with their parents, On the Sabbath, Divine Service is performed twice, and all who can possibly attend do so. " If the request is not improper, will you, honoured Sir, procure for us some copy-slips, or models for writing, and a few of Walkingame's Arithmetic, with a Key to the same? for we often hear our Teacher say, if he had these helps, his work would be much easier; and we heartily wish he could obtain the means of making it so." Before the engagement of Mr. Nobbs's ser- vices as a teacher, Mr. John Buffett, who had arrived at the island in the year 1823, afforded his assistance in the school and chapel. The life of BufFett has been one of remarkable ad- venture. In 1815, when a youth on board ( H.M.S. Penelope, bound from England for JOHN BUFFETT. 189 Quebec, lie was wrecked in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the ship having struck on a bed of rocks. Most of the people perished, but he escaped with a few others in the pinnace safe to land, where, as the ground was covered with snow, and there were no inhabitants, he suffered severe privations. In a few days some Canadian fishermen, who sailed near, descried the shipwrecked mariners, and rescued them from their perilous situation. Some years afterwards in a voyage from Jamaica to St. John's, New Brunswick, in the brig Weasel, Buffett was shipwrecked on Situate Bay, near Boston, and was again saved from the fate which seemed ready to overtake him. In 1821, he sailed as mate from London in an American ship bound for Canton. From Canton he went to Manilla, and, after experiencing many trials and hardships by sea, proceeded to California, where he remained for some months. He then joined the whale-ship, Cyrus, of London, John Hall,* Master, and having procured 1,700 bar- rels of sperm oil, touched, in the passage home- ward, at Pitcairn's Island, for refreshment. " The inhabitants," says Buffett, in his nar- rative, " being in want of some person to teach them to read and write, the captain asked me if I should like to remain there. I told him I should, and was discharged and went ashore. When our boat landed, the natives appeared very glad to see us. We ascended the hill, and were conducted to the village, where we saw John Adams. He was a man about five feet six inches high, stout made, and very corpulent." CHAPTER VIII. INVITATION TO ADMIRAL MORESBY VISIT OF AN ENGLISH ADMIRAL TO THE ISLAND HIS LETTERS, AND THOSE OF HIS SECRETARY AND CHAPLAIN THE ISLANDERS IN 1852 MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO MR. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS ORDINATION AS DEACON AND PRIEST. THE narrative has now reached an important era in the annals of Pitcairn. The first arrival of an English Admiral at the island in August, 1852, may be considered an historical event among the community there ; and it may be reasonably hoped that the result of his visit will prove a blessing to the people. Eear- Admiral Moresby, C.B., who had long been interested in the state and prospects of the islanders, received, in July 1851, the following warm and hearty invitation, signed by thirteen of the female inhabitants, in the name of all their sex on the island : " Pitcairn, July 28th, 1851. " HONOURABLE SIR, From the kind interest you have evinced for our little community in the letter which you have sent our excellent and worthy Pastor, Mr. Nobbs, we are emboldened to send you the following request, which is that you will visit us before you leave this station ; or if it is impossible for you to do so, certainly LETTER OF INVITATION. 191 we, as loyal subjects of our gracious Queen, ought to be visited annually, if not more, by one of her ships of war. " We have never had the pleasure of wel- coming an English Admiral to our little Island, and we therefore earnestly solicit a visit from you. How inexpressibly happy shall we be if you should think fit to grant this our warmest wish. We trust that our very secluded and isolated position, and the very few visits we have of late had from British ships of war, will be sufficient apology for addressing the above request to you. With fervent prayers for your present and future happiness, and for that of our Queen, and Nation, " We remain, Honoured Sir, " Your sincere and affectionate well-wishers, CAROLINA ADAMS, DORCAS YOUNG, SARAH M'CoY, SARAH ADAMS, PHCEBE ADAMS, JEMIMA YOUNG, EEBECCA CHRISTIAN, HANNAH YOUNG, NANCY QUINTALL, SUSAN QUINTALL, LOUISA QUINTALL, EUTH QUINTALL, KACHEL EVANS, SARAH NOBBS. It will be seen from the subjoined narrative that this invitation was accepted. The lively In the name, and on behalf, of all the rest of the female sex on the Island. 192 VISIT OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. account, which has been supplied by Mr. Nobbs, of the reception of Admiral Moresby, will serve to place the reader in possession of many in- teresting facts connected with the present state of the island. " On the 7th of August, 1852 (at noon) a vessel was reported, which at sunset was strongly suspected of being a ship of war. The hours of the night passed tediously away, and before sunrise next morning several of our people were seated on the precipice in front of the town, anxiously waiting the report of a gun from the ship, which would give positive confirmation to the overnight suspicion of her being a ship of war ; nor were they kept long in suspense : the booming of a cannon electrified the town, and the whole community were thrown into a state of intense excitement, more especially as it was quickly observed that she wore an Admiral's flag! " Our boat repaired on board, and, after a short time, another from the ship was seen ap- proaching the shore. The teacher and some others went to the landing-place, and had the honour and pleasure of welcoming to Pitcairn Rear- Admiral Moresby, Commander-in-Chief the first officer of that rank that ever visited Pitcairn. The admiral received our greetings of welcome in a most urbane manner, and both him- self and his secretary, Mr. Fortescue Moresby, were pleased to express themselves much grati- fied with all they saw and heard. The admiral attended divine service, and was evidently sur- prised at the improvement the people had made VISIT OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. 193 in singing by note ; especially as their friend Carleton had so very limited a time for instruct- ing them. In the afternoon the Rev. Mr. Hoi- man read prayers, and preached a sermon, most appropriate to the occasion, from 1st Cor. 15th chap, last verse. " The admiral, in the course of conversation, learned from the inhabitants that they had a great desire for the ordination of their pastor, in order that he might be qualified to administer the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper ; and, with great kindness, proposed to send Mr. Nobbs to England for that purpose, leaving the Kev. Mr. Holman to officiate in his stead. The inhabi- tants did not accede to this most generous offer so readily as they ought to have done ; and the reason they gave was, that in case of sickness they would have no one to prescribe for them. The admiral told them they might do as they liked, but they were certainly much wanting to themselves, and their children, if they let so favourable an opportunity pass without im- proving it. He explained to them, very clearly and forcibly, the necessity of an ordained clergy- man being established among them, and the disabilities their children laboured under until such an event took place. They listened with breathless attention to the paternal advice of the admiral, and most readily acquiesced in all his expansive views of the subjects most vitally connected with their welfare. But still they evinced a backwardness in agreeing to part with their teacher. The admiral, on perceiving this, kindly told them he would give them till eleven 194 VISIT OF ADMIEAL MORESBY. o'clock to come to a decision, and that lie would not retire till that period. " During their debate one of them came to inquire of the admiral, whether Mr. Holman would teach the public school. The admiral replied, ' Certainly.' On this the man went away ; and at eleven o'clock, as no answer had arrived, the admiral went to bed. About twelve o'clock word was brought, that the community had agreed to let their teacher go, which was duly reported next morning to the admiral, who remarked that they had done well in con- senting to Mr. Nobbs's departure, and that he would take upon himself the responsibility of the expenses incurred necessarily by Mr. Nobbs, although he had no doubt there were friends of the Pitcairn Islanders who would cheerfully unite with him ; and further, they would never lack friends so long as they continued to deserve them. " As the point was now decided, Mr. Nobbs was requested to hold himself in readiness for embarkation, the admiral generously undertaking to supply him with articles in which his scanty wardrobe was deficient. On seeing the necessity there was of an educated female to improve the domestic habits of the women generally, and hearing Mr. Nobbs remark that he would send one of his daughters to Valparaiso for improve- ment, that she might on her return instruct the others, but that he could not command funds for doing so, the admiral replied, ' Take your child with you, and I will put her to school while you are gone to England ; and when you THE LEAVE-TAKING. 195 come back you can take her to the island with you.' " And now comes the leave-taking, - the venerable and benevolent commander-in-chief of her Majesty's forces in the Pacific, standing on the rocky beach at Bounty Bay (the very spot where the mutineers had landed sixty-two years before), himself the oldest person there, by fifteen years, surrounded by stalwart men and matronly women, youths, maidens, and little children, every one in tears and most deeply affected, formed a truly impressive scene. The boat was some time in readiness before the admiral could avail himself of an opportunity to embark. Some held him by the hand, the elder women hanging on his neck, arid the younger ones endeavouring to obtain a promise that he would revisit them. As a number of the men went on board with the admiral, a similar scene occurred there ; and as the last boat pushed off from the ship, some of the hardy tars standing in the gangway were detected in hastily brush- ing away a tear. The frigate now stood in for the last time, and, hoisting the royal standard, fired a salute of twenty- one guns. The tars manned the rigging, and gave three hearty cheers, and one cheer more. The islanders responded : the band struck up ' God save the Queen ; ' and the stately Portland started on her track. May He who stilleth the raging of the waves, waft her propitiously to her destined port ! To Admiral Moresby, Mr. Fortescue Moresby, Captain Chads, and the officers gene- rally, the people of Pitcairn are much indebted 196 LETTER OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. for many, very many favours. That they will long be gratefully remembered, admits not of a doubt; and that the inhabitants may continue to conduct themselves as becomes people so highly favoured, is most devoutly to be wished." The following letter from Admiral Moresby to the Admiralty, will further illustrate the sub- ject of Pitcairn, its people, and Pastor: "Portland, at sea, lat. 25 25' S., long. 126 29' W. August 12, 1852. " SIR, Continuing the report of my pro- ceedings from the 27th ult., as detailed in my letter No. 71, I request you will inform the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that after passing over the position assigned to Incarnation Island without seeing it, we made Pitcairn's Island on the morning of the 7th instant. Early on Sunday, the 8th, I landed. From this time to the period of our departure, on the llth, I remained on shore, and a constant intercourse was kept up with the Portland. " It is impossible to do justice to the spirit of order and decency that animates the whole com- munity, whose number amounts to 170, strictly brought up in the Protestant faith, according to the Established Church of England, by Mr. Nobbs, their pastor and surgeon, who has for twenty-four years zealously and successfully, by precept and example, raised them to a state of the highest moral conduct and feeling. " Of fruits and edible roots they have at LETTEE OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. 197 present abundance, which they exchange with the whalers for clothing, oil, medicine, and other necessaries ; but the crops on the tillage ground begin to deteriorate, landslips occur with each succeeding storm, and the declivities of the hills, when denuded, are laid bare by the pe- riodical rains. Their diet consists of yams, sweet potatoes, and bread-fruit ; a small quan- tity of fish is occasionally caught; their pigs supply annually upon an average about 501bs. of meat to each individual ; and they have a few goats and fowls. Their want of clothing and other absolute necessaries is very pressing, and I am satisfied that the time has arrived when preparation, at least, must be made for the future, seven or eight years being the ut- most that can be looked forward to for a con- tinuance of their present means of support. The summary of the year 1851 gives births, 12; deaths, 2; marriages, 3. On their return from Otaheite they numbered about 60, of whom there were married 13 couple; the rest from the age of 1 6 to infancy. " Mr. Nobbs was anxious to avail himself of my offer to convey him to Valparaiso, and thence enable him to proceed to England, for the purpose of obtaining ordination. At a general meeting of the inhabitants their consent was given, provided I would leave the chaplain of the Portland until Mr. Nobbs returned : the advantage is so obvious that I feel confident their lordships will approve my consenting. From the anxiety which has b een expressed by high authorities of the Church for Mr. Nobbs's 198 LETTER OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. ordination, I anticipate that it will be effected with so little delay that he will be enabled to return to Valparaiso by the middle of Jan- uary. " I was unable to comply strictly with the list of articles which their lordships authorized me to give the islanders. I enclose a list of what we supplied ; they were greatly wanted and gratefully received. The crew of the Port- land also requested permission to give a portion of their allowance, and also that they might be allowed to send them a whale-boat, with other stores from Valparaiso. " Captain Chads and the officers were most generous. I was fortunate in procuring at Borobora a young bull and heifer, also a ram, accidents having befallen the ones previously sent. The packet of seeds forwarded in their lordships' letter, No. 132, of the 4th of Decem- ber, 1851, was duly delivered. " Should any unfortunate circumstance pre- vent the periodical visits of the whale-ships, they would be left entirely to the charitable consideration of her Majesty's Government. The crews of the whale-ships have invariably conducted themselves with marked propriety. They take their turn of leave on shore, and their sick are received and nursed with the greatest care. " The Adeline Gibbs, American whaler, Mr, Weeks, master, was there during our visit. Mr. and Mrs. Weeks were living ashore. It would be a happy circumstance if a person like her could be found to reside among them. LETTER OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. 199 " I forward a continuation of their journal since that published by Mr. Brodie a very correct statement, which renders unnecessary any further remarks. " I have, &c. " FAIRFAX MORESBY, " Rear- Admiral, and Commander-in-Chief." The Admiral also wrote thus from The Port- land, at sea, August, 1852: " Of all the eventful periods which have chequered my life, none have surpassed in interest, and I trust in hope of future good, the last, our visit to Pitcairn ; and surely the hand of God has been in all this ; for by chances the most unexpected, and by favourable winds out of the usual course of the trades, we were carried in eleven days to Pitcairn's from Boro- bora. It is impossible to describe the charm that the society of the islanders throws around them under the providence of God. The hour and the occasion served, and I have brought away their pastor and teacher for the purpose of sending him to England to be ordained, and one of his daughters, who will be placed at the English clergyman's at Valparaiso, until her father's return. The islanders depend prin- cipally for their necessary supplies on the whaling-ships, which are generally American. Greatly to their credit, the men behave in the most exemplary manner, very differently from what I expected. One rough seaman, whom I spoke to in praise of such conduct, said, i Sir, 200 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. I expect if one of our fellows was to misbehave himself here, we should not leave him alive.' They are guileless and unsophisticated beyond description. The time had arrived when pre- paration for partial removal was necessary, and especially for the ordination of their pastor, or the appointment of a Clergyman of the Esta- blished Church. " They are thoroughly versed in Bible his- tory, which has hitherto kept them from listening to the advances of some over-heated imaginations. I stayed for days upon that speck in the ocean, but rising like a paradise from its bosom. I believe there was scarcely a dry eye in the ship when the islanders took their leave. We ran within hail of the settlement, hoisted the royal standard, fired a salute, and cheered them." Extract of a Letter from the Admiral's Secretary. " At 6. 30, A.M. of the 9th, as we were dancing along about eight knots an hour before a fresh breeze, we discovered a thin blue shadow, whose outline appeared to be too well defined to be a cloud : at 9 we were certain that we saw Pitcairn's Island. Having read so much about the mutiny of the Bounty, and the subsequent romantic his- tory of the mutineers, which has resulted in the formation of a colony celebrated for their virtue, and simplicity, and religion, I experienced a feeling of something (I know not what to call it) on approaching the island, that I have felt when visiting some spot held sacred either from LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 201 history or from being the scene of some Biblical relation ; it is a secret kind of satisfaction. Hav- ing a fair wind, we hoped about noon to be on shore ; but whilst we were yet twenty miles from the island, the wind came directly foul, and fell light, so that we hardly held our own, owing to the heavy swell, and all day we remained en- deavouring to work up. What a little spot it appears on the vast Pacific ! a mere rock, appa- rently incapable to resist the mighty waves of so vast an ocean. Easily indeed would a ship not knowing its exact position miss it. The mutineers might well deem themselves secure on so small an island, so remotely situated at that time. Also these seas were but little fre- quented ; but even now, to give you an idea of their vast extent, notwithstanding the thousands of ships that are trading on them, we have only seen one ship at sea, and our track measures 4,500 miles. When we get close to the land, or some well-known port, we see a few. During the night we got a slant of wind, and at 6, Sunday morning the 8th, we were close to the island. The Admiral fired a gun to give notice of our arrival. A whale-boat full of the islanders soon came off, but before coming alongside they asked permission to come on board ; then jumped up the side seven or eight fine tall, robust fellows, and gave us a hearty shake-hands, and assured us of a hearty welcome when we went on shore. " I was in my cabin with Philip M'Coy, one of the islanders, when the sentry came to tell me that it was prayer-time, for the admiral always has prayers before breakfast. I said to Philip, I 202 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. ' I shall be up again directly, if you will wait.' He paused a moment, and then said, ' May I come, sir?' 'Oh yes,' I answered. On going down, we met the rest of his companions, whom he told, and they all came in and knelt down to prayers. We then got a hurried breakfast, and the admiral and myself immediately landed in the cutter, the water being pretty smooth. This was the only time a ship's boat was able to land, for a heavy surf generally rolls in, breaking with terrific violence on the rocky shore. The proper way to land is to come to the back of the rollers in a ship's boat ; a whale-boat then comes off, you get into her, and she immediately gets ready to obey the signal of a man who stands upon a rock on shore, and directly he waves his hat, the favourable moment has arrived, the men give way, and with wonderful rapidity the boat is borne on the top of a wave to the shore. They are very skilful, and in a heavy surf will gene- rally land you dry. " Mr. George Hunn Nobbs, their teacher or pastor, met us at the landing-place; and we at once ascended the cliffs by a steep winding path to a plantation of cocoa-trees, called the market-place, as all trade is carried on at this spot. Here the islanders met us and gave us a hearty welcome. Generally all the inhabitants assemble here to welcome the officers of a man- of-war; but as it was Sunday and early, they had not arrived. We continued our way by a pretty path winding through the trees to the town, meeting here and there detachments coming towards us, These all followed in our LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 203 wake ; and by the time we reached Mr. Nobbs's cottage, which is situated at the opposite end of the town, we had pretty well all the people after us. " Never were seen so many happy smiling faces, all eager to look at the first admiral that ever came to their happy island ; but not one tried to push his way, or make any attempt to get before another. If we said a kind word to any of them, they looked so happy and pleased! and we did Jnot neglect to do so. There is not one in whose face good humour, virtue, amia- bility, and kindness does not beam, and con- sequently not one whose face is not pleasing. " It was now church-time, and away we all went to Church. Mr. Nobbs officiated, and read the prayers impressively and earnestly : the most solemn attention was paid by all. They sang two hynrns in most magnificent style; and really I have never heard any Church singing in any part of the world that could equal it, except at cathedrals; and the whole of the credit is due to Mr. Carleton, who was left behind by accident from a whaler. (See c Pit- cairn's Island and the Islanders,' by Mr. Brodie.) " Both sexes like to dress like English people, if they can, on Sundays. The women complain that they cannot get shoes ; biit all the men can get them from the whalers. During the week, their dress consists chiefly of a dark-blue petti- coat, and a white kind of shirt for the women ; and for the men loose shirt and trousers. Their food consists chiefly of yams, cocoa-nuts, bananas, 204 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. tacco, oranges, &c. &c. a few fish; and in the yam season, each family kills a large pig, that during the hard work of digging yams they may have a little animal food. Sometimes they get goats' - flesh, and are trying to rear a few cattle they have there. The admiral gave them a young bull and cow, also a ram. " Both sexes work very hard indeed. They usually rise at dawn, have family prayers, do the work that is necessary; about dusk have supper ; then they go to the singing-school or to Mr. Nobbs, or meet to have a chat. About nine or ten, they go to bed, previously having family worship. Should one of the little ones go to bed or to sleep during his mother's absence, she immediately awakes it to say its prayers. Not a soul on the island would dream of com- mencing a meal or finishing without asking a blessing or returning thanks. Boys and girls can swim almost as soon as they can walk ; con- sequently they can swim through the largest surf, and play about amongst the broken water on the rocks that we look at with terror. One of their greatest amusements is to have a slide, as they term it ; that is, to take a piece of wood about three feet long, shaped like a canoe, with a small keel (called a surf-board) ; they then, holding this before them, dive under the first heavy sea, and come up the other side; they then swim out a little way until they see a rapid heavy sea come rolling in, the higher the better; they rest their breast upon the canoe or surf- board, and are carried along on the very apex of the surf at a prodigious rate right upon the LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 205 rocks, where you think nothing can save them from being dashed to pieces, the surf seems so powerful; but in a moment they are on their legs, and prepared for another slide. Their method of fishing is equally dangerous ; the women walk upon the rocks until they see a squid; then watching the retreating sea, they run in and try to pick the squid up before the advancing surf can wash them off; but frequently they are washed off, and then they have to exert all their skill to land, for they have no surf- board to help them. " Christmas Day is a grand feast, and they keep it up in good style: but the Queen's birthday is their grand day ; it is kept up with feasting and dancing (the only day they are allowed to dance on the island), and all sorts of merriment. Among the first questions everybody asks is, How is her Majesty the Queen ? " Away, away ! we are off to the world again, truly sorry to leave this island ; their happiness in this life consists wholly in virtue, and their virtue is their truest pleasure. They think that (and how really true it is !) the more religious and virtuous you become, the happier you are ; deeming every sin to take from your enjoyment in this and the after life. If we were to take away the credit due to them of leading so good a life from principle, they would still continue, as they know that true pleasure is only to be obtained by obeying the will of God. Their temperance and industry give them health, food, and cheerfulness ; it gains for them universal 206 THE ISLANDEES IN 1852. esteem, respect, and sympathy ; and as in this life they do not seek their pleasures in things below, but in a higher Power, so we may earnestly hope that the image of the Saviour will be found in their hearts, and in the next \vorld that they may be peculiarly His own." The following animated account, by one of the voyagers, brings the narrative down to Mr. Nobbs's arrival at Valparaiso, on his way to England : " He has officiated as minister during the last twenty-three years, greatly to the satisfaction of the islanders, if one may judge by the respect and affection which they entertain for him. We brought Mr. Nobbs as far as Valparaiso. More than one meeting was held by the elders, before they could bring themselves to consent to his leaving them, though only for a few months. At last their anxiety to have a regularly or- dained clergyman prevailed. We found these excellent people fully deserving all the praise which has been bestowed upon them. They are like one large family, living in perfect harmony with each other. We were treated by them like brothers, and welcomed everywhere. The population is now twenty-one families. Arthur Quintall is the oldest man, and George Adams next, these being the only male survivors of the first generation. They are badly off for clothing, which they purchase from the whaling vessels occasionally touching there. Their money is derived from the sale of their surplus yams, &c. ; but owing to the small size of the island, and the rapid increase of the population, they must, THE ISLANDEES IN 1852. 207 in a very few years, withhold from ships all supplies except water. The endeavours of Mr. Carleton and the Baron de Thierry to teach them singing, have been successful. They now sing together in parts beautifully ; and are very grateful to those gentlemen for this tuition. They meet twice a- week to practise, and we heard them sing a variety of glees extremely well. " We arrived on the morning of Sunday, Aug. 8, 1852. As soon as we hove-to, off Bounty Bay, Arthur Quintall and George Adams, with as many as a whale-boat could contain, came on board to pay their respects to the first admiral who had ever visited them. Shortly after, they requested leave to attend prayers in the admiral's cabin, which are read every morning by the chaplain. When break- fast was over, the band was ordered up, with which they were much delighted. " Our chaplain performed the afternoon ser- vice, and preached an excellent sermon. The hymns were sung in regular parts by the whole congregation. I doubt much whether any church in England, excepting cathedrals, can boast of such a good choir. The congregation were very nicely dressed; indeed, it is a great point to have white shirts on Sundays. The Sabbath is strictly observed. The crew of the Portland requested permission, which was granted, to present the islanders with three casks of rice, twelve bags of bread, and one cask of sugar; the value of these articles being charged against their wages. Mr. Nobbs left 208 MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. the shore amidst the tears and blessings of his little flock, by whom he is sincerely beloved. " Before making sail on our course, we ran in close to the island, hoisted the royal standard at the particular request of the islanders, who had never before seen it displayed, fired a royal salute, manned the rigging, and gave three cheers for the islanders, which they 'answered heartily. We arrived at Valparaiso on the 30th August." Mr. Nobbs having travelled by the Isthmus of Panama, arrived in England by the Orinoco steamer on Saturday, Oct. 16, 1852. Admiral Moresby had supplied him with the means of obtaining a passage from Valparaiso to London, and generously promised 100?. towards such costs as might be incurred during his absence from the island. On Mr. Nobbs's presenting himself to the Bishop of London, his Lordship, in consideration of his long services at Pitcairn, and the high character given of him by Admiral Moresby, and other competent persons, acceded to his request to be admitted to holy orders. On Sunday morning, October 24th, 1852, an ordination took place in the parish church of St. Mary, Islington, by the Bishop of Sierra Leone, under a special commission from the Bishop of London, when Mr. Nobbs was ad- mitted to Deacon's orders. Mr. Richard C. Paley, B.A. of St. Peter's College, Cambridge, a grandson of the celebrated Archdeacon Paley, was ordained at the same time ; both candidates ORDINATION OF MR. NOBBS. 209 having been presented by the Rev. Henry Venn, Secretary of the Church Missionary Society. Several of the clergy of the neighbourhood, and about twenty students of the Church Missionary College, were present. Mr. Paley, who was a very young man, soon after entered upon his arduous and interesting Mission at Abbeokuta, Western Africa, but was stopped by the hand of death, almost at the commencement of his missionary career. The other candidate, more than twice his age, yet lives on, by God's good providence, for the benefit of his little flock in the Pacific. On the 30th November following, (St. An- drew's day,) Mr. Nobbs was ordained Priest in Fulham church, by the Bishop of London ; his description in the letters of orders being " Chaplain of Pitcairn's Island." He was pre- sented for priest's orders to the Bishop by the author of this work. CHAPTEE IX. THE REV. G. H. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS RECEPTION BY THE QUEEN AND PRINCE ALBERT MR. NOBBS'S RETURN HOME- WARD BY NAVY BAY AND THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA AT VALPARAISO EFFORTS IN ENGLAND FOR THE ISLANDERS INTELLIGENCE FROM PITCAIRN THE FIRST COMMUNION ON THE ISLAND MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN PITCAIRN IN 1853 AID RENDERED TO THE ISLANDERS. DuKiNGr his two months' stay in England, Mr. Nobbs met with various marks of kindness. The prompt and courteous attention shown him at the Admiralty, by Mr. Stafford, Mr. T. T. Grant, and other gentlemen, he valued very highly. Among the visits which he paid, were those to the Duke and Duchess of Northumber- land, the Bishops of London and Winchester, and Archdeacon Grant, at whose houses he was a welcome guest. Sir Kobert H. Inglis received him with much hospitality ; and he was enter- tained with true kindness at Killerton, Devon, by Sir Thos. Dyke Acland, one of the most cordial and serviceable of his many friends. On Wednesday, December the 15th, two days before he quitted England for Pitcairn, Mr. Nobbs embarked at Portsmouth, on board the yacht Fairy, and proceeded, by appoint- ment, to Osborne House, where he was received by Colonel the Hon. C. Grey, and, after a RECEPTION BY THE QUEEN AND PRINCE. 211 short time, was presented to Prince Albert. His Royal Highness was very kind, asked many questions as to the island, and appeared much pleased with the answers given. Mr. ISTobbs having, towards the conclusion of this interview, humbly begged to be allowed to pay his duty in person to the Queen ; and it having appeared, that Her Majesty had ex- pressed her readiness to receive him, the Prince was pleased to present him to Her Majesty. His reception was highly gratifying to his feel- ings as a dutiful subject, and the representative of the truly loyal community of Pitcairn. The Queen, who was most gracious and condescend- ing in her demeanour towards him, was pleased to present him with her portrait. Portraits of Prince Albert, and the Royal Children, were added. This highly- treasured gift was taken out in February 1853 in Her Majesty's sloop Rattle- snake, Captain Trollope. The portraits of Her Majesty and the Royal Family, having been consigned at Valparaiso to the care of Captain Morshead of H.M.S. Dido, were safely landed at Pitcairn ; and, on the 3d of the following November, were exhibited to the islanders. Their devoted loyalty on the receipt of the pic- ture of the Queen was most striking. Mr. Nobbs having been placed by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel on its list of Missionaries, with a salary of 50 1. per annum, sailed on the 17th December, 1852, from South- ampton, in the Royal Mail steam ship La Plata. He reached the island of St. Thomas early in the year 1853, and from thence proceeded in another 212 MR. NOBBS'S EETURN HOMEWARD. steamer to Navy Bay. The Directors of the Royal Mail Steam Navigation Company had kindly provided him with a free passage to that place. At the head of Navy Bay lies the town, which by the government of the province, and in all official documents, is styled "Colon," but by the Americans, who are its founders and chief owners, is known by the name of " Aspinwall." There is the terminus of the railroad, by which the traveller is conveyed about 25 miles, at a high rate, to the station at Barbacoas, on the river Chagres. Thence there is a conveyance up the river by canoes about 14 miles, to the town of Cruces. From Cruces the journey overland to Panama, about 25 miles, is completed on mules, over one of the very worst roads that exist in the known world. From the island of Taboga, near Panama, an excellent steamer plies continually to Valparaiso, touching at Callao, the Port of Lima. It will be interesting to many readers to learn that the late admirable Bishop of Sydney, Dr. W. G. Broughton, travelled by this line, cross- ing, under circumstances of great difficulty, the Isthmus of Panama, on his way from Lima to England, which was to be his last place of sojourn on earth. He reached our shores on the 18th of November, 1852, the day of the funeral of his patron, the Duke of Wellington, who had duly appreciated his merits and virtues. The Bishop died in London, greatly lamented, on the 20th February, 1853. He had expressed, in t L ! J ' j . i I'll % a T y MR. NOBBS AT VALPARAISO. 213 a letter to the author, much sympathy with the Pitcairn islanders, and their Pastor. Mr. Nobbs, though a well-tried traveller, and equal to the endurance of no small anlount of hardship, experienced a full share of the trouble and annoyance for which the journey over the Isthmus of Panama is proverbial. He had pur- posely avoided taking much luggage. Not only, however, was the charge for conveyance exorbi- tant; but, notwithstanding all his care, he, for some time, lost sight of a trunk, containing, among other articles of importance, a beautiful set of silver communion plate, which had been entrusted to his care by a friend at Fulham, for use in the church at Pitcairn. This painful event, added to the ill effect of the climate, brought on an attack of fever, the symptoms of which were serious after his leaving Panama. By God's blessing, this sickness passed away. Through the active zeal of Mr. Perry, the British Consul at Panama, the goods, which had been missing for a week, were restored to Mr. Nobbs's hands. On his arrival at Valparaiso, he found his son and daughter in good health ; but he was just too late for a vessel which had left for Pitcairn. Writing to the author from Valparaiso, he said : " After some detention and sickness, I was graciously permitted to arrive here on the 12th of February ; and I am still detained, waiting for the Portland. Oh, how I wish to be at home ! The Admiral is in tolerable health, and so is the Eeverend Mr. Hill, who, I believe, cor- responds with you. I have divided the duty 214 ME. NOBBS AT VALPARAISO. with him at the church on shore, ever since I have been here, besides the service on board one of the British ships of war, once on each Sab- bath ; so you see I am not idle. The agent for British steamers in these parts presented me with a free passage from Panama to Valparaiso, iii the name of his company, whose directors reside in Liverpool. I wish you, my friend, or our good Sir Thomas Ackland, would thank them for their kindness. I intend doing the same. If you have anything to send to your corre- spondents in these parts, let it come round Cape Horn ; for if it comes across the Isthmus of Panama, the charges will be enormous. Please to offer my grateful remembrances to all and every one to whom you think it right they should be offered, especially those kind and worthy brethren who attend your Society, and who have expressed so much interest in me and mine. So much for business, &c." It is now time to give an account of certain efforts which have recently been made in this country, with a view to the permanent benefit of the Pitcairn islanders. In consideration of the scanty resources of Pitcairn' s Island, some noblemen and gentlemen were induced, on the recommendation of Admiral Moresby, with the aid of the Admiral's relatives in England, (Mrs. Moresby, Mrs. Prevost, and Mr. and Mrs. E. A. White, of Grantham,) to raise a fund of moderate amount towards the passage and outfit of Mr. Nobbs, and for the PITCAIKN FUND COMMITTEE. 215 supply of such things as were deemed requisite for the inhabitants. Labourers' and carpenters' tools, a proper bell for the Church, medicines, a few clocks, clothing of various sorts, simple articles of furniture, cooking utensils, &c., were needed. Mr. Nobbs having been requested by the Committee of the fund to furnish a list of articles wanted, a statement was supplied by him accordingly ; and the authorities at the Admiralty, in the most kind and considerate manner, assigned for the use of the islanders such of the articles in his list as were among those stores of the victualling department which were not required for their original purpose. The aid thus furnished by the Admiralty proved most important ; a considerable portion of the requisite goods having been supplied from that source. The rest were purchased from the fund, raised by means of liberal contributions, and were despatched in June 1853, freight-free, in the government store-ship, the Narwhal, to Val- paraiso, for transmission to Pitcairn's Island. The Society for Promoting Christian Knoiv- ledge, at the General Meeting held on the 7th of December, 1852, at which Mr. Nobbs was pre- sent, unanimously granted One Hundred Pounds towards this fund. Admiral Moresby generously added to his former benefactions One Hundred Pounds. The exertions made in this good cause have proved successful. Not only have all the needful articles been purchased, and paid for, from the means cheerfully subscribed ; but the sum of Five Hundred Pounds has been 216 LETTERS FROM VALPARAISO. invested in the funds, for the future "benefit of the islanders. A whale-boat has also been procured, and sent out for them from the balance in hand ; the invested capital (July 1854) being at present untouched. The Bishop of London, Sir T. D. Acland, Bart. M.P., and William Cotton, Esq., are the Treasurers of this fund. In the first edition of this book was the follow- ing passage : " From Valparaiso, should all go on prospe- ously with Mr. Nobbs, Admiral Moresby will convey him to Pitcairn in the Portland ; and the islanders will probably welcome him home before the end of March. May it please God to guide him, in health and safety, to his distant flock ! Who can adequately imagine the scene which will be presented on his landing among his friends on the island, to be parted from them no more on this side the grave?" It appeared from letters afterwards received, that it would be near the middle of May before the pastor would reach Pitcairn. In a letter to the author, from Valparaiso, Mr. Nobbs said, " I hope my next will be dated ' Pitcairn's Island.' ' : Looking forward to the pleasure of being once more at home, he added, " Oh ! that will be joyful." Some events which have since occurred in connexion with the island, including the arrival of Mr. Nobbs at Pitcairn, shall now be stated to the reader. The following is an extract from Admiral Moresby's letter to the aiithor, dated Valparaiso, 31st January, 1853 : FIRST COMMUNION AT PITCAIRN. 217 " Truly my heart rejoices at the completion of my wishes in Mr. Nobbs's ordination, and the future prospect opening to the Pitcairn commu- nity. A small sum will suffice to keep up a knowledge of the Tahitian language the voice by which the extension of the gospel will be forwarded. " I have now only to hope and trust that it will please God to give his blessing to all that has been done." The Admiral at the same time forwarded a communication addressed to him by the Eev. W. H. Holman, dated Pitcairn, Dec. 21st, 1852. From this it appeared that the people had been greatly pleased with the presents brought by the Cockatrice, and felt truly grateful for the kind- ness of their friends. Two deaths had occurred on the island that of Mary Christian, on the 24th October, and a little boy, William Quin- tall, on the 1st of November; the latter from lock-jaw, occasioned by a thorn running into his foot. The people were healthy, with the excep- tion of the slight illness caused by vaccination, which was proceeding satisfactorily, and which proved successful in every case. A very favourable report was given of the moral and religious character of the islanders. The first administration of the Holy Communion had taken place on the island, when the whole of the adult congregation (sixty-two persons) received the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper. Soon after this the chief Magistrate, in the name of the Community, wrote to the Admiral in the following grateful terms : P 218 LETTER TO THE ADMIRAL PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, January 13^, 1853. " DEAR AND HONOURED FATHER, " We, the inhabitants of Pitcairn's Island, filled with a sense of gratitude for the many favours which we have experienced at your hands, have made bold to address you in the language of children. We feel in ourselves that if kindness and protection from a parent deserves the respect and obedience of his chil- dren, we certainly owe the same to you, for the many many favours which we have received from you ever since your arrival in this ocean. Your former favours to us are not forgotten, and especially your kind visit to us in August last. The presents which we then received from you and your officers, and good ship's company, and those again by the Cockatrice lately, have filled us with the deepest gratitude ; and will, we doubt not, be remembered in Pitcairn's Island when we ourselves are no more. " Situated as we are, so far away from the rest of mankind, and lying so far out of your course, we esteem it the greatest kindness in- deed that you should deign to pay us a visit as you did ; and we sincerely hope, that through the mercy and kindness of * Him who alone can govern the unruly wills and affections of sinful men,' we may ever continue to conduct ourselves in such a manner as to merit- ihe esteem and approbation of yourself and all our numerous friends. " In the name of the Community, we beg you to accept our most sincere and hearty thanks for all your kindness to us. We feel that words MR. NQBBS'S ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN. 219 are but weak to convey our thanks ; but such as they are, we hope you will accept of them as flowing from sincere and grateful hearts ; and that the Giver of all good gifts, who has declared that < it is more blessed to give than to receive,' may ever bless and preserve you and yours, is the sincere desire of " Your loving children, " MATTHEW M'CoY, " Chief Magistrate, &c. &c. " To Rear- Admiral Fairfax Moresby, Commander-in-chief of H.M.S. in the Pacific." Many persons in this country, who felt a deep interest in Pitcairn's Island and its Pastor, when they considered the uncertainty of human life, and the dangers and difficulties of the passage between London and Pitcairn a distance of more than thirteen thousand miles could not but be anxious to hear of Mr. Nobbs's safe return to the scene of his labours. They therefore sym- pathised not only with him, but with the ener- getic and disinterested Admiral Moresby, when it became known that the valuable deposit, en- trusted by the islanders to that officer's care, had under Divine Providence been safe in his hands, and had been happily restored to theirs. The following is an extract from a letter from Mr. M. Fortescue Moresby, R.N., son and Secretary to the Commander-in-chief, dated H.M.S. Portland, 25th June, 1853 : " On Friday, the 15th of April, 1853, we sailed from Valparaiso, having Mr. Nobbs, and his children, Reuben and Jane, on board, in order to return them all to their island home. 220 ARRIVAL AT PITCAIKN. On Saturday, the 14th of May, we sighted Pit- cairn, about 50 miles distant : on Sunday, at sunrise, it was looming large from the deck. Just before we went to morning service we fired three guns, to let them know we had three pas- sengers on board. After church we were close enough to see people on the island; and we observed them all come out of church, and launch their whale-boat. Of course this was a most anxious time for Mr. Nobbs. In about half-an-hour they came alongside, followed by a canoe, in which were old John Adams's son and grandson. They manifested the same honest genuine feeling of delight at Mr. Nobbs's return, as they did of sorrow at his departure. Of course, they were delighted to see us also once more. We observed that all the men looked ill and poor ; which, they told us, was the effect of the long drought having disappointed them in their crops. This had caused not quite a famine, but so near it, that, for months, they had been reduced to pumpkins, berries, cocoa-nuts, and beans, for their existence. When we got on shore, the effect of so low a diet was plainly visible : they were not nearly the same gay people that they were before ; one and all looked thin and care-worn. The Admiral, with Mr. Nobbs, Keuben, Jane, and myself, immediately landed in the cutter, and got rather wet in the surf. Every soul was on the beach to receive us ; and it would be a task my pen is totally unequal to, were I to attempt describing their delight at again receiving amongst them their old and beloved Pastor. We at once proceeded PRIVATIONS AT PITCAIRN IN 1853. 221 in a body to the village ; and they then told us how dreadfully close they were, and how they had been pushed for food. The officers and crew of the Virago had handsomely presented them with all their savings of provisions. But for this timely supply, their distress would have been much more sharply felt. They made the best of their narration, trying to say, that they generally fared so well, that the least privation seemed to them a great hardship ; but their thin figures and low spirits told the truth. " We stayed from Monday until Thursday morning, and passed our time in much the same manner as before, taking walks over the Island, sketching, talking, and singing: truly a more innocent and delightful race could not exist. " The Admiral was, with much reason, pleased with the progress made by Jane Nobbs. Whilst she was at Valparaiso we saw very little of her, in order that she might apply closely to her studies; but on our passage we had time to form a correct opinion of her. She had learnt to sew neatly, with many other useful domestic accomplishments, and all this without losing in the least her pristine simplicity and modesty. I trust she will prove a useful member of the community. " On Thursday we left, and shaped our course for the Gambier Islands ; we sighted them the same evening ; but the weather was so bad, we dared not attempt to pass through the narrow entrance of the reef. For some days the wea- ther was worse ; and as it was a fair wind for 222 SICKNESS AMONG THE PEOPLE. Pitcairn, we bore up, and soon sighted the island again. It was thick dirty weather, and as we stood in, no boat came off; so we thought they could not communicate. We stood off and on for a few hours, thinking that the weather would moderate, and then bore round, intending to fire a gun or two, and then away. But just then I caught the flash of an oar, and said, ' There's the boat, Sir.' For some time the flag-lieutenant and others wanted to persuade us it was a rock, but as it rose on each wave I said that, ' it was a living rock, then.' " At last they were convinced, so we hove to, and five of them came on board in their whale- boat. They had a sad tale to tell ; all were sick on shore, having been attacked, the day after we sailed, with the influenza. As it was bad dirty weather, we hoisted the boat in, and stood off and on for the night. We gave the poor fellows a good supper, and they related all their woes. It was decided that early the next morning, the Captain, Doctor Palmer, and myself, should land, and see what was to be done. In the mean time we got ready a quantity of tea, sugar, biscuit, &c., for them. On Sunday morning we landed, and found most of the poor things in bed. Some, not so bad as the others, got up to receive us. The Doctor visited, and did all he could to relieve them ; three or four of the cases he found very bad, and he would willingly have remained three or four days; but as he had given directions, and done all he could, the Admiral decided to leave. " You can hardly think how sad it was, seeing LETTER FROM ADMIRAL MORESBY. 223 four-fifths of them so ill. We visited each house and spoke a word of comfort here and there to those most desponding. Tea was their great want, and they seemed so thankful for the little I took for them ; some immediately made a large kettle full, and said they felt better. Mr. Nobbs, Reuben, and Jane, were nearly the only ones entirely free from sickness ; showing that the strong food they had been living on was their medicine ; for the poor islanders, famine-struck and weak, had no strength left to resist the disease. At 4 P.M. on Sunday, we were com- pelled to leave them once more ; and so all our distress came over again, because we left them all ill, and were anxious for their future state. " Now we are fairly off, I suppose. Never more shall I see Pitcairn ; but if I never see it, I can never forget it. To me it will ever be the gem of all the places I ever have seen, or shall see, in the varied roamings of a sailor's life." Admiral Moresby, in a letter of the same date, on his passage in the Portland, from Pit- cairn to Lima, wrote as follows : " Our voyage to Pitcairn was long thirty days ; but with Mr. Nobbs, Reuben, and Jane on board, we had a pleasant time. Sad was the first appearance of the Islanders, for hunger had nearly worn them to the bone. Our arrival was most opportune, and our re-appearance still more so." 224 ADMIRAL MORESBY'S ADDRESS. ^ During the Admiral's visit, and shortly before his departure from the island, he seized the golden opportunity of affording the inhabitants good advice on several important points con- nected with their peculiar state and position. The following are notes of Admiral Moresby's address to the Pitcairn islanders, on Tuesday, the 17th of May, 1853 : " Your pastor has requested you to remain after this general thanksgiving, to hear the observations I have to make on various circum- stances that have been brought to my notice. They are meant for your future benefit ; but I request you will keep in mind that they are not intended to dictate what is to be performed, but given as from a friend for your consideration. " The simple but effective rules which John Adams left are still sufficient for most local purposes, if regarded with due observance ; the magistrate also performing his duty in the spirit of the oath which he takes on his election. This book, which contains some of your early laws and regulations, has neither date nor signature ; some of them have been modified as you saw occasion, but there is no record. I recommend you to have these laws and regulations fairly transcribed, your Register continued and care- fully preserved. I am told that some of the younger members of your community are averse to having a Register kept : the Magistrate by his oath is compelled to keep a Register, and must produce it when a case is referred to by any of ADMIRAL MORESBY'S ADDRESS. 225 her Majesty's officers. The young now so out- number the mature in age, that great mischief might result on putting a question of this sort to the vote, especially under circumstances of excitement ; in fact, this has already occurred, and your fast-increasing numbers require a remedy to this growing evil a more watchful and experienced guide than when your commu- nity consisted of children of the first generation of those who landed from the Bounty. " I have read the laws and regulations that have been registered; have been informed of those that have been modified, and of the cus- toms that have by usage become a law. I think, by extending the spirit of the first article of the law, which I see by Brodie's book was established the 30th day of November, 1838, on the occasion of Captain K. Elliott's visit, a desirable object will be gained, with a due con- sideration for the public good. " After the regulations for the appointment of the Magistrate, established in 1838, I recom- mend you to add,^ " ' The Chief Magistrate should be exempted from personal labour in all public works, his duty being to superintend the performance of them, and equal distribution of their expense. " The Chief Magistrate has not the power of making new laws, or subtracting from those existing. " The Chief Magistrate must be 28 years of age, the Councillors 25 years of age. " Individuals must have attained the age of 20, to entitle them to vote for the election of a 226 ADMIEAL MORESBY'S ADDRESS. Chief Magistrate or Councillor, or at a meeting called for the public service. " No new law can be established, or a present one revoked, without a majority consenting at a public meeting, summoned by the Chief Magis- trate, at the instance of at least one-third of the householders or elders. If a majority of two- thirds fails to carry the proposition, it is to be referred, ten days after, to a meeting of the elders, a majority of whom will decide the ques- tion. " The right of voting as an elder is vested in married householders, widowers, or widows, being 25 years of age ; bachelors and spinsters, not householders, at 28 years of age. " The Chief Magistrate is to take cognizance of all complaints or breach of the law. In the first instance, in trifling circumstances, he must endeavour to judge between the parties com- plaining, and arrange their differences. Should his attempt be unsatisfactory, he must call the Councillors to his assistance : before them a re- hearing is to take place, and the verdict of the majority given. Should this again fail, the par- ties are to be warned that all reasonable ex- penses for loss of time must be paid : a jury of the elders must be summoned, and their verdict considered decisive. In all public meetings, when an equal number of votes occur for and against, the Magistrate shall have the casting vote. " The Magistrate must keep a list of voters ; and, on a jury being summoned, he is to place the names, carefully concealed from view, in a ADMIRAL MORESBY'S ADDRESS. 227 bag or box, from which, before a Councillor and the parties accusing and accused, or before the parties litigating, he is to cause the necessary number of names for forming the jury to be drawn. Should any be objected to by the par- ties, the reasonableness of such objections is to be decided by the Magistrate and Councillors, and if approved, other names are to be drawn to complete the number. " In all cases where the public good is con- cerned, and the assistance of persons required by the Magistrate, his summons is to be imme- diately obeyed, under penalty of fine to the amount awarded by the Magistrate and council or jury of elders referred to. " A person refusing to serve on a jury with- out any reasonable objection, shall likewise be fined in the manner specified above. " The Magistrate, according to his oath, must keep a register of such proceedings as may involve any question where life or property is concerned, or that may be necessary to refer to her Majesty's officers visiting Pitcairn's.' " The adoption of the foregoing will, I trust, ensure the happy continuance of your present unity, and give weight to the experience of age. " You have nearly all conversed with me on the late famine, and the prospect of a removal before your numbers exceed the ability of the soil to support you. The . scarcity has shown how soon and unexpectedly the necessity may arise ; it is for yourselves to consider this serious question whether, bee-like, you would swarm away, or one and all prefer searching for more 228 ADMIRAL MORESBY'S ADDRESS. extensive land ? You have friends who are wil- ling to assist you, but you must not be dependent. Great exertion and fixed resolution to meet diffi- culties will be required, and sacrifices of present comfort, but all for the sake of your children. You must teach them not to be dependent ; for, although they may be launched well, they cannot always be taken in tow, nor must you rely now on periodical supplies or relief. Mr. Nobbs, your pastor, will tell you how he was received, and the circumstances of your island- life inquired into, by our gracious and beloved Queen, and her Royal Consort, the Prince Albert ; he will tell you that many great and good persons have interested themselves in your welfare. And why ? Because, where tares had been sown, and their increase only anticipated, a good harvest has been gathered. " It is delightful to witness your pastor's return, and very gratifying to have your estima- tion of Mr. Holman's ministry. We have all been made happy in administering to your wants. " I said no new law was necessary, but let me recommend one new custom ' That every house possess sufficient brooms, for the girls to sweep inside the house and the boys outside, twice a-day ; and the collection of your refuse should be daily placed where it would come in season as manure for your crops. 7 Act up to the old saying : ; The city is soon clean, when every man sweeps before his own door.' " I would recommend, also, that a book should be procured to register your laws and LETTERS TO ADMIRAL MORESBY. 229 regulations, signed and dated by the Magistrates and Councillors, specifying that they are those now in force, and witnessed by your Pastor, the Magistrates, and Councillors ; and that you should refrain from bartering away your provi- sions before a sufficient store is in hand for future wants. " I must leave you on Thursday. You need not hurry over your consideration of my propo- sitions. Send the result of your meeting to me by the first opportunity. "May God bless you ! " It is, perhaps, scarcely necessary to add that the words of so kind a benefactor were received and treasured up with respect and gratitude. These feelings are best expressed by themselves in a letter to the Admiral. "PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, 18^ May, 1853. " HONOURED SIR, " We, the undersigned Magistrates and Coun- cillors of Pitcairn's Island, having, according to your request, convened a public meeting of the inhabitants of this island, have the satisfaction to inform you that, as regards your wise proposition for the amendment of certain laws relative to the duties of the Chief Magis- trate, the age at which he and his councillors are eligible to hold such offices, &c. &c., we, together with the rest of the community, do unanimously and fully acquiesce in your opinion, and will lose no time in attending to all your kind suggestions. " As regards the necessity of removing to 230 ON THE NECESSITY OF REMOVAL. some other island or place, it is very evident that the time is not far distant when Pitcairn's Island will be altogether inadequate to the rapidly-increasing population ; and the inha- bitants do unanimously agree in soliciting the aid of the British Government in transferring them to Norfolk Island, or some other appro- priate place, and desire that the funds which you have so benevolently and condescendingly (with the assistance of other benefactors) col- lected in England for the benefit of this com- munity, should be reserved and appropriated in assisting them in such a step whenever it should become necessary. " With high sentiments of gratitude and respect, permit us, in the name of the commu- nity, to subscribe ourselves, "Your obedient, " Very humble Servants, (Signed) " ARTHUR QUINTALL, JUN., Magistrate, THOMAS BUFFETT, 1st Councillor, EDWARD QUINTALL, 2d Councillor. "To Rear-Admiral Fairfax Moresby, C.B., Commander- in-Chief, &c. &c. &c." To Bear-Admiral Moresby,