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 JOUENEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS
 
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 (3052.5" 
 
 JOUENEYS AMONG THE 
 GENTLE JAPS 
 
 IN THE SUMMER OF 1895 
 
 WITH A SPECIAL CHAPTER ON THE RELIGIONS 
 OF JAPAN 
 
 BY THE 
 
 Rev. J. LL. THOMAS, M.A., F.KG.S. 
 
 VICAR OF ABERPERGWa ; 
 
 AUTHOR OF "AN UNDERGRADUATE'S TRIP TO ITALY AND ATTICA,' 
 
 " OSFORD TO PALESTINE,' ETC. 
 
 WITH IVIAP AND A PHOTOGRAVURE PORTRAIT 
 
 LONDON 
 SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON & COMPANY 
 
 LIMITED 
 
 Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.G. 
 1897
 
 LOXDOX: 
 PRINTED BY AVILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LnciTED, 
 
 STAHFOHD STREET AND CHABtNO CBOSS.
 
 TO 
 
 Mr. H. M. STANLEY, M.P., D.C.L, etc., 
 
 AS A HUMBLE TRIBUTE 
 
 TO HIS UT^RIVALLED SERVICES 
 
 TO THE CAUSE OF GEOGRAPHICAL SCIENOB, 
 
 AND m GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT 
 
 OF A PERSONAL FRIENDSHIP 
 
 MUCH APPRECIATED 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR. 

 
 " Tliis iland of lapon i"s a great land, and lyeth to tlie uoitli- 
 wards, in the lattitude of eiglit and fortie degrees, and it lyeth 
 east by north, and west by south or west south west, two 
 hundred and twentie English leagues. The ]ieople of this 
 iland of lapon are good of nature, curteous aboue n)easure, and 
 valiant in warre ; their justice is seuerely executed without any 
 [lartialitie upon transgressors of the law. They are gouemed in 
 great ciuilitie. I meane, not a land better gouemed in the 
 world by ciuil policie. The people be verie siiperstitious in 
 their religion, and are of diuers oijinions." — WiU Adams 
 (Seventeenth Century').
 
 PREFACE 
 
 Whex Japan emerged from her isolation forty years 
 ago, it is not surprising that so remarkal)le an event 
 should have called forth a multiplicity of books de- 
 scribing from every possible standpoint the country 
 which had remained so long a sealed empire ; but it 
 would have been strange indeed if much that was 
 written of a laud with a civilisation so unique, thus 
 thrown open to the rest of the world at one stroke 
 of the ruler's pen, did not misrepresent the stern 
 reality. For even now, four decades after we forced 
 our acquaintance upon her at the cannon's mouth, 
 Japan — as no other country in the world — is apt to 
 run away with the sober sense of the one who sets 
 himself to write about her. It is my wish, in pre- 
 paring this volume, to guard myself against the 
 suspicion of the same want of self-restraint and the 
 temptation to " enthuse," and, on the other hand, 
 not to be too niggardly in my praise of a country 
 which — all are agreed — has a gi'eat deal about it that 
 appeals with an iiresistible charm to the Western
 
 Vlll PBEFACE 
 
 mind. A book of first impressions of Japan must 
 necessarily be more highly coloured than one of 
 later and more matured opinions. For even Japan 
 after a while begins to pall, and in revising at a 
 later date the impressions jotted down in the first 
 enthusiasm of landing on those strange shores, one 
 finds it necessary to tone down here and there. But 
 the same sort of account will not be expected from a 
 tourist as from a returned missionary or merchant 
 who has resided in the country for years, and has 
 become more or less " Japanesy." This is the book 
 of a tourist, and any old residents of the country 
 who may read it will probably smile at much that 
 it contains, and wonder that the writer should have 
 been so easily charmed by what is to them un- 
 romantic and commonplace. The impressions it 
 contains are such as they were first written down, 
 and the narrative of the journey is but slightly 
 altered from the form in which it was first entered 
 in my journal. 
 
 J. LL. T. 
 
 Glyn-Neath, 
 
 December 2lst, 1896.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FAOX 
 
 Across Canada 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 The North Pacific 13 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Yokohama 29 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Kamakura and Enoshima 42 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 The Hakone Hills ....... 58 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 ToKTd 78 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 TOKYO (continued) 91 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 TdKYo (continued) 103 
 
 h
 
 X CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTEK IX. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Njkko and Neighbourhood . . . . IIG 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 The TOkaidA Line 136 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Kobe and Neighbouehood 155 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 Thi: Sanyo Line 172 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 Shikoku 100 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 SuiKOKU (continued) ....... 204 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 Thk Retubn 221 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 The Religions of Japan 232 
 
 Indkx ......... 252
 
 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 ACROSS CANADA. 
 
 Setting out— Montreal— The " C. P. K."— Eate of speed— Fellow- 
 l^assengers — Mr. Yung Wing— His opinion of Li Hung 
 Chang — General Grant and Li — The through journey — 
 Winnipeg — North -West Mounted Police — Missionaries — 
 Cree Indians — Moose Jaw — Medicine Hat — Calgary — The 
 Pockies^Kicking-horse Pass — The "Great Divide" — Fear- 
 ful descent — The Selkirks — Snowsheds — British Columbia 
 — " A Thing of Beauty " — Arrival at Vancouver — A useful 
 vade-mecum — The story of Vancouver — A mushroom town 
 — From log cabins to granite palaces — Life in Vancouver — 
 The "C. P. E." Hotel— A "dip" in the Pacific. 
 
 I HAD been travelling in the States on a journalistic 
 commission entrusted to me by the Western Mail, 
 when I found myself, somewhat unexpectedly, in a 
 position to gratify the wish of a lifetime, and to set 
 out for the land of the Eising Sun. Japan was then 
 on everybody's lips. She had astonished the civilised 
 world by the series of brilliant exploits on sea and 
 land by which she had humiliated her hated rival in 
 
 B
 
 2 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 the Far East. The Americans, especially — ^vho do 
 not forget that it was their gunboats that forced 
 Japan to become amenable to Western influences 
 and to enter the comity of nations — saw in the 
 triumph of that country the direct result of theii* 
 own high-handed proceeding. Japan had suddenly 
 proved herself a power that even the West would 
 have to reckon mth, and had gone far to establish 
 her claim to the coveted title of " Britain of the 
 Pacific." 
 
 On May 26th, 1895, I found myself— for the third 
 time — at Montreal, going the round of the same 
 sights which had charmed me so much before — 
 again admiring the unrivalled prospect from the 
 summit of Mount Eoyal, and interested as keenly as 
 ever, as I walked through the streets and lanes of 
 the city, in the spectacle of two races so diverse in 
 many ways living so amicably together. The morn- 
 ing of the 28th I took the " cars " for Vancouver, and 
 resigned myself to a five days and a half's unbroken 
 experience of the famous Canadian Pacific Eailway. 
 The " C. P. E." is a great name in America. It is 
 far and away the greatest enterprise ever undertaken 
 and successfully carried out on that continent of big 
 enterprises. Brooklyn Bridge and the harnessing 
 of Niagara are mere trifles compared with it.
 
 TEE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY 3 
 
 The Canadians are justly proud of it. It is even a 
 great political force — being aptly nick-named "the 
 Government on wheels." There is no more common 
 topic on board Atlantic liners than the merits of the 
 " C. P. E." No sooner are you out of Liverpool or 
 Southampton than those initials strike your ear, 
 either in the saloon, on deck, or in the smoking- 
 room. It is not claimed for the " C. P. E." that it 
 has annihilated distance, but it has taken a long 
 stride forward in that direction, and will yet do 
 more. It is impossible to forecast the ultimate 
 development of that great system. As regards speed, 
 the time occupied at present in the transit from 
 terminus to terminus is five days and a few hours. 
 Once at least the journey was done in four days, but 
 the strain on the track was too great to justify a 
 repetition of the experiment. It is safe to predict 
 that before many years four days will become the 
 normal time, and then the extreme limit of speed 
 will perhaps have been attained, as seems to be 
 already the case on the Atlantic. But it is not safe 
 to lay do^vn limits to the developments of the 
 " C. P. E." 
 
 Several of those who boarded the train with me at 
 Montreal jom'neyed with me the whole distance. 
 In addition to English and Scandinavian land-hunters 
 
 B 2
 
 4 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 bound for the north-west, pig-tailed Chinamen and 
 keen-eyed Japs crowded Montreal platform, and 
 fraternised along the route, looking not at all the 
 traditional enemies tliey are commonly regarded. 
 The Japs were mostly Pullman passengers, and were 
 either prosperous New York merchants proceeding 
 to their country for wares, or students returning 
 home after a course of American or European train- 
 ing. They presented a striking contrast to the 
 Chinese, who were of the working class, having 
 probably made their " pile " in the laundry line. A 
 noticeable exception M-as a very respectable China- 
 man, with whom I came frequently in contact during 
 the voyage across the Pacific — a Mr. Yung Wing — 
 who was probably the only celestial on board the train 
 and afterwards the boat that did not sport a pig-tail. 
 He had become completely Americanised by a long 
 residence in the States, and had married an American 
 wife. Indeed, but for his unmistakably Mongolian 
 features, he might have passed for an American — or 
 rather, I ought to say Englishman — as he betrayed 
 no trace of an American accent, though he resided in 
 New England (Hartford), where the Yankee charac- 
 teristics are supposed to be most pronounced. He 
 was well acquainted with Li Hung Chang, and held 
 the opinion of him which one constantly hears
 
 LI HUNG CHANG 5 
 
 expressed in the Far East — that he has been a cm\se 
 rather than a blessing to China, and that he has been 
 the one great obstacle to the development of China 
 on Western lines. Perhaps that was charging Li 
 with more than his due share of responsibility for the 
 rigid conservatism of the Celestial Empire, but the 
 famous Viceroy has no friends among those Chinese 
 who have come under the influence of Western ideas. 
 The one dominant principle of liis career, they will 
 tell you, has been to enrich liimself and his family 
 at the expense of the country, and he is said to have 
 succeeded amazingly. He and his relatives between 
 them own the greater part of a rich province. Mr. 
 Yunej Wing had notliino- but ridicule for the estimate 
 of Li formed by General Grant, who said that of the 
 three great men whom he had met in his tour round 
 the world, Disraeli, Bismarck, and Li Hung Chang, 
 he was not sure that the last was not the greatest. 
 
 A journey across the American Continent without 
 a break is not to be recommended, even with the 
 splendid arrangements of the Canadian Pacific. It 
 must be remembered that it is like going from 
 London to Liverpool fourteen times, or from London 
 to Edinburgh eight times, in one journey. A break 
 either at Winnipeg or Banff, if not at both, is a 
 necessity, if the journey is to be enjoyed. The
 
 6 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 pleasures of the ride through the transcendent scenery 
 of the Eockies and the Selkirks, down the canon 
 of the Fraser, and, finally, along the charming wood- 
 land region of British Columbia, cannot he appreci- 
 ated by the jaded senses of the through passenger- 
 A " stop-over " at Banff will refresh the mind^of the 
 West-bound traveller for the due appreciation of the 
 rapidly-moving pictures which will await him. I 
 am here preacliing what I did not practise, as I left 
 IMontreal too late to allow myself the benefit of a 
 "stop-over" anywhere en route. The train I tra- 
 velled by was the last, except one, that would take 
 me to my destination in time for the boat for Japan, 
 and I required a few hours at Vancouver before 
 embarking. My advice to those of my readers who 
 may contemplate the trip is not to follow my 
 example, if they can help it, but to do the overland 
 journey more at their leisure. They will have heard 
 all about Winnipeg — that city of mushroom growth 
 in the heart of the continent, the Hudson's Bay fort 
 of yesterday, now a thriving city of many thousand 
 inhabitants, the commercial focus of the north-west 
 — and they will do well to break their journey there. 
 No city is so often cited in illustration of the go- 
 aheadness of life in the New World as Winnipeg. 
 The hour's look round allowed the through passenger
 
 ACB08S TEE PLAINS 7 
 
 gives him but a vague and confused idea of that 
 remarkable city, with its miles of imposing structures 
 that would do credit to a city of a century's growth. 
 From Winnipeg to the Eockies is a distance of nearly 
 a thousand miles. Before the railway was biult, this 
 was a six weeks' journey, post haste, the old ox- 
 trains taking something like three months. Now it 
 is a matter of hours, not of days or weeks. Portage- 
 la-Prairie, Brandon, Eegina, Calgary, etc., are, like 
 Winnipeg, cities of phenomenal growth, and centres 
 of prosperous farming regions. During this section 
 of the journey we make the acquaintance of the 
 North- West Mounted Police, a body of men of whom 
 Canada has reason to be proud. One or two of these 
 red-coated guardians of the prairies are sure to join 
 you on the " cars," and perhaps enter into a conver- 
 sation mth you. You will also probably encounter 
 a missionary or two on the train. Each has a number 
 of settlements separated by long distances to minister 
 to, and the " C. P. E.," with characteristic considera- 
 tion, allows them to travel between their mission 
 stations for a nominal charge, or no charge at all. 
 Specimens of Cree Indians, with theu' squaws and 
 papooses, painted and blanketed, and looking very 
 picturesque in spite of the dirt, resort to the different 
 stations to see the trains pass through, and to trade
 
 8 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 in curios. Sonic of the places we come upon in tlie 
 midst of the great prairies, notwithstanding their 
 weird names, are veritable oases, and quite refresh 
 us by their charming appearance. Moose Jaw, cut 
 off from the rest of the world, is just such a place. 
 Its strange appellation is an abridgment of an Indian 
 name, meaning, " The-creek-where-the- white-man- 
 mended -the -cart- with-a-moose - jaw - bone " — which 
 would be even more awkward in every-day use than 
 some of the Welsh place-names are to the average 
 Englishman, who styles them " crack-jaw." But 
 Moose Jaw is a remarkably smart, cheerful-looking 
 town, with none of the uncouthness which the name 
 would suggest. Medicine Hat is another. It is a 
 finely situated and rapidly-growing town on the 
 banks of the South Saskatchewan, and presents a 
 refreshing contrast to its desert-like setting of prairie 
 stcjypes. At Medicine Hat the train stops half-an- 
 hour. During the interval I went with the Eector, 
 who had travelled with me for some hours, to see his 
 church and rectory. They were both small wooden 
 structures, but the internal arrangements of the 
 former were such as the most fastidious churchman 
 would think " correct," if not particularly ornate. 
 On the fourth morning we awoke to find ourselves 
 entering the Eockies, Calgary — another township
 
 THE MO OKIES AND THE SELKIBKS 9 
 
 with a future — having been passed in the night. 
 For three hours the long heavily-laden train kept 
 climbing that great backbone of the American con- 
 tinent till it reached the summit in the Kicking-Horse 
 Pass, a mile above the sea — the " summit," it need 
 hardly be said, in an engineering sense, for the 
 mountains still towered several thousand feet above 
 us. We had no sooner passed the " Great Divide " — 
 where two small streams, starting from a common 
 source, part company, and flow, one into the Pacific 
 and the other into the Atlantic — than we begin to 
 feel that we have begun our way down the Western 
 slope of the range. Then we realise that we are 
 descending a fearfully steep grade, and we experience 
 a feeling of uneasiness as to whether the heavy train 
 is well under control. But of that there is no cause 
 whatever for fear. Through wild and terrible scenes 
 — which I shall not attempt to describe — over flimsy- 
 looking trestle bridges, and through miles of snow- 
 sheds, we are hurried along to the foot of the Eockies, 
 and then over the parallel range, the Selkirks, till we 
 reach the level region of British Columbia, surfeited 
 with the sight of Natm-e in her most impressive 
 aspects. Of giant hoary-headed mountains, frowning 
 rocks. Nature's domes and spires, abysmal gorges, 
 foaming torrents and roaring cataracts, of gleaming
 
 10 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 glaciers and snow-fields, we had had enough. We 
 experience a feeling of relief when our train rolls 
 into the station of Vancouver, and we catch our first 
 glimpse of the stately steamer — with every feature 
 of which we are ah'cady familiar, though we now see 
 her for the first time in the flesh — which is to be 
 our home for thii'teen days on the broad Pacific. 
 There she lay, moored in her imposing majesty at 
 the wharf near the depot — " a thing of beauty " and 
 " a joy for ever," conscious, as it were, of being the 
 pride of the people of Vancouver. 
 
 I have not mentioned what was a constant com- 
 panion of my trans- continental journey, and that 
 was an annotated time-table, which is given to 
 every passenger on his setting out. It is a piece 
 of railway literature which is not to be found out of 
 the New World, and which (in that form), as far as 
 I am aware, is only issued in connection with the 
 " C. P. It.," but I see no reason why something like 
 it should not be adopted in this country by our 
 leading lines. It not only gives a brief descriptive 
 account of all the various places and interesting 
 sights passed, but the distance each station is from 
 the starting-point, and the hour the train is due at 
 each station, arranged in such a way that by looking 
 down the time column the passenger can tell with
 
 VANCOUVER 11 
 
 exactness his whereabouts when he awakes out of 
 sleep, as the train is almost invariably "on time." 
 The publication also contains memoranda pages, on 
 which the tourist can jot down his notes, and thus it 
 becomes a record of his journey across. 
 
 Vancouver owes its existence entirely to the 
 "C. P. E.," of which it is the terminus. Until 
 May, 1886, its site was covered by the forest 
 primeval. In a few weeks, not only had a large 
 clearing been made among the mammoth trees, but 
 something like a town had sprung into existence; 
 but in July a fire, originating in the surrounding 
 forest, swept away every house but one in the place, 
 and, with that exception, every building now in 
 Vancouver has been erected since that date. Hand- 
 some structures of brick and granite have taken the 
 place of the timber houses of the first settlement. 
 The remains of the forest are now a public park, 
 which is one of the attractions of Vancouver. The 
 population of the town in 1894 was twenty thousand. 
 It has many miles of well-made streets, and, like all 
 towns of that size on the American continent, is 
 lighted by electricity and has electric cars. In its 
 streets frontier and backwoods life is seen inter- 
 mingled with the European, the American, and the 
 Oriental. Down at the water's edo'c are extensive
 
 12 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 wharves, lined with vessels from China, Japan, 
 Australia, and the South Sea Islands, as well as 
 from the various American ports on the Pacific 
 coast. 
 
 One of the fmest buildings in Vancouver is the 
 " C. P. E." Hotel, which is situated on high ground, 
 and from wliich is obtained a lovely view of the 
 town and the surrounding country. 
 
 A dip in the English Bay — wliich has bathing 
 facilities equal to those of any watering-place in 
 England — is one of my pleasant recollections of 
 Vancouver. It was an " event," as it was my first 
 introduction into the Pacific.
 
 13 ^ 
 
 CHAPTEE II. 
 
 THE NORTH PACIFIC. 
 
 Leaving Vancouver — The Empress steamers — Description — The 
 Empress of India — A floating caravanserai — Chinese 
 waiters — Menu card — English impatience — The Pacific 
 justifies its name — Max O'Rell and the North Atlantic — 
 Typhoons—" Westward to the Far East "—The Empress 
 of India in a typhoon — The Beaver — The Straits ol' 
 Georgia — Mount Baker — Off Victoria — The ocean voyage 
 — Crossing the meridian — " Throwing a day overboard " — 
 The reason Avhy — The Aleutian Islands — Games — The 
 Japan stream — Three " celestials " die — " Fishbones " — A 
 lucid explanation — Ship-life of the " heathen Chinee " — 
 Simdays on board — Impressive services — Parade — An ex- 
 citing episode — Library — Japanese history — Kinka-San — 
 Gulf of Tokyo — Its charms — Arrival at Yokohama. 
 
 On the second day after my arrival at Vancouver 
 I had to start on my long voyage — the longest, 
 perhaps, without a stoppage or sight of land made 
 by passenger steamers in any quarter of the globe. 
 I don't know if the time will ever come when M^e 
 shall hear of the " Pacific Ferry " as we do now of 
 the "Atlantic Perry." Certainly, the Canadian
 
 14 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAFS 
 
 Pacific, by their line of Empresses, has gone far to 
 make such a description to some extent applicable. 
 It is still ordinarily a voyage of twelve or thirteen 
 days, and even the Yankee has not gone so far as to 
 dub the Pacific a " pool." But, given a fair sea (and 
 the Pacific is not, as is well known, so often " with 
 its back up " as the North Atlantic) the days spent 
 in crossing that vast wilderness of waters in one of the 
 Empress boats pass away very pleasantly, and if the 
 sight of a sail never cheers the vision, and even that 
 of land is not always to be depended upon, and if we 
 are cut off for a fortnight from the living world, 
 there is never a lack of resources on board, below 
 and above deck, to beguile the tedium of the long 
 voyage. The three steamships composing the line — 
 the Empress of India, Empress of Japan, and Empress 
 of Cliina — are, as they have been described, veritable 
 floating palaces, triumphs of the art of ship-building. 
 They certainly represent the high-water mark in 
 marine architecture. 
 
 Though they have been frequently described, a 
 few particulars may be given here. They are 
 485 feet in length and 51 feet beam; they have 
 accommodation for 150 saloon passengers. They 
 have a hurricane deck, cabins and state-rooms amid- 
 sliips, porcelain baths, watertight compartments,
 
 THE ''EMPRESS OF INDIA'' 15 
 
 twin screws, triple expansion engines, capable of a 
 speed of over nineteen knots an hour. The dining 
 saloon and library are of the most ornate kind, the 
 former, with its central glass dome, illuminated 
 windows, and vis-a-vis family tables, suggesting a 
 high-class American cafe. The three are of the 
 cruiser type — to be converted into fighting ships in 
 case of need — and are commanded by men of the 
 Naval Eeserve, most of whom are navigators of great 
 experience. 
 
 The Empress of India, setting out from Vancouver 
 June 3rd, 1895, was a floating cai^avanscrai of seven 
 hundred souls. The servants (or "boys," as they 
 are commonly called), were chiefly Chinese, as were 
 also a large proportion of the crew. The first sight 
 of a number of yellow pig-tailed servitors, in caps 
 and snowy blouses, standing in a mute row ready to 
 enter on their duties as the passengers come in to 
 dinner, is one that will be long remembered, and it 
 is a view of " Celestials " under the best conditions. 
 It is not often that they are seen so clean and pre- 
 sentable. Voyagers never fail to be struck with 
 their silent automatic movements and soft velvety 
 tread. Generally, their knowledge of English is 
 limited to a few words of the " pidgin " dialect, and 
 it is found necessary to number the different items
 
 16 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 on the menu card, so that in orderinti; you have only 
 to point to the number of the dish. The name, as a 
 rule, is beyond their comprehension, and when the 
 name is given without the number amusing mistakes 
 sometimes occur, the consequences of which a quick- 
 tempered passenger or officer is apt to visit upon 
 the head of the meek and inoffensive waiter. The 
 Englishman or American abroad too often forgets to 
 make allowance for the difficulties to foreigners of 
 his own speech, which are to no race more insur- 
 mountable than to the Mongol, and — a monoglot 
 himself — is apt to l_)e impatient at the linguistic 
 ignorance of other nations. That English will one 
 day be the universal speech may be granted, but 
 the world is not yet come to that. Meanwhile, 
 many of our countrymen abroad will act as if it had, 
 and rail at the stupidity of the Asiatic and the 
 African, no less than the European, who does not 
 speak their language. 
 
 My first passage across the Pacific was of the 
 pleasantest, and the second was like unto it. In- 
 deed, I don't know whether it would be possible to 
 find the North Atlantic for thirteen days so much 
 like the proverbial mill-pond, and then a few weeks 
 later to find it again in the like placid mood for a 
 similar period. For, no doubt, Max O'Eell was not
 
 TEE TYPHOON 17 
 
 far wrong when he described the North Atlantic as 
 generally " having its back up " ; and, though the 
 North Pacific can at times belie its name and even 
 rival the Atlantic at its worst, its normal condition 
 is without doubt more tranquil, and Magellan had 
 good cause for giving it the appellation he did. 
 The tj^hoon season seems to be indicated by a 
 rhyming verse which is well known in the Far 
 East. It is as follows : — 
 
 " June, too soon. 
 July, stand by. 
 August, you must. 
 September, remember. 
 October, all over. 
 
 Though one hears variations of it, and sometimes 
 its correct version is a subject of animated disputes 
 among the passengers, the above form is given on 
 the authority of IViiss Scidmore, whose little book, 
 ' Westward to the Far East,' besides being one of the 
 most readable little handbooks for the journey, is 
 also one of the most reliable. 
 
 The breeding-place of the typhoon is generally in 
 the vicinity of the Pliilippine Islands, whence it 
 whirls up the Gulf of Tonquin, and then passes 
 into the Yellow Sea and strikes the coasts of Japan. 
 But even a typhoon is not to be seriously dreaded 
 
 c
 
 18 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 when you are on board an Empress and in the open 
 ocean. The chances are against your being at its 
 centre. In nineteen cases out of twenty you will 
 be on an outer circle, and even when you are 
 exposed to the full brunt of it, a staunch boat such 
 as those of the "C. P. E.," navigated by such ex- 
 perienced men as there are in that service, can 
 weather the worst. I was shown in an officer's 
 cabin, on board the Em^yrcss of India, a sketch of 
 that boat taken when at the centre of a typhoon in 
 the Chinese seas by a well-known artist among the 
 passengers. It was the most terrific storm that the 
 steamer had up to that time encountered, and if the 
 picture was the faithful representation of the scene 
 that the officer assured me it was, it certainly 
 seemed incredible that even the Empress could have 
 lived in such a sea. But she rode through it 
 triumphantly, and, when beyond the circle of the 
 typhoon, seemed as trim and taut as when she 
 entered it. I mention this for the reassurance of 
 timid passengers, who, as they approach Japan, will 
 hear a great deal about the dreaded typhoon. In- 
 deed, there are not many passages so free from 
 dangers as that from Vancou^'e^ to Yokohama. No 
 sail is sighted between the two shores, no iceberg 
 floats in the North Pacific, and though some may
 
 THE ''BEAVER'' 19 
 
 miss the excitement of such scenes, there is the 
 compensating advantage that your mind can be at 
 ease as regards any chance of a collision, and you 
 can feel in the tliickest fog that you have the whole 
 vast desert of waters practically to yourself. 
 
 There was some disappointment among the 
 voyagers, as we were steaming out of the inlet 
 of Vancouver and threading the Narrows, at missing 
 a sight of the Beaver, or rather of her bones. The 
 Beaver was the first steamer that churned Pacific 
 waters, having been brought round the Horn in 
 1836 for the service of the Hudson Bay Company, 
 and, after being incapacitated, was used as a tug- 
 boat when, in 1889, it became a wreck off Vancouver. 
 But the remains had lately disappeared, and so the 
 interesting sight of the earliest and latest steam- 
 ships in the Pacific in juxtaposition is no longer 
 possible. 
 
 From Vancouver to Victoria, a distance of eighty- 
 two miles, is a land-locked passage of great beauty. 
 The course is down the Straits of Georgia. The 
 noble peak of Mount Baker, nearly fourteen thousand 
 feet in height, and covered with perpetual snow, 
 impresses us in the distance. It is night before we 
 are off Victoria, and so we are denied even a distant 
 glimpse of the old provincial capital which so excites 
 
 c 2
 
 20 JOUJiNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 the admiratiou of all who visit it, and which, not- 
 withstaudiug the keen rivalry of Vancouver City, 
 still boasts the title of the Queen City of the West. 
 A few came on board at Victoria, and as soon as 
 their belongings had been stowed away, our mam- 
 moth home moved away once more — away from the 
 New World towards the Old, from the Far West 
 towards the Far East, " where the sun sets, the sun 
 rises, and time begins." 
 
 Our voyage commences at the 49th parallel of 
 north latitude, and ends at 35° and 20' north. By 
 keeping north, the distance is considerably lessened, 
 and, impossible as it may seem on the map, the 
 shortest way across would be through the Aleutian 
 Islands, and when they have been thoroughly sur- 
 veyed, that, no doubt, will be the course taken. At 
 present. East-bound steamers get within a few miles 
 of the southernmost of those islands, but never go 
 north of them, though the Parthia once passed close 
 to the shores of the island of Attn, well into the 
 Behring Sea, and heard "the wolfs long howl." 
 Why we should be taking what appeared on the 
 map such a circuitous route puzzled some of the 
 lady passengers not a little. It was only on the 
 production of a globe that the pestered officers suc- 
 ceeded in convincing them that they were not being
 
 CROSSING THE MERIDIAN 21 
 
 purposely taken out of their way. They admitted 
 at once that it was perfectly clear. Not so clear, 
 however, could the scientific fact be made to their 
 unscientific minds by the most clear-headed demon- 
 strator, that it was necessary on the voyage out to 
 drop a day from the calendar, and on the return 
 journey to double a day. One of the first questions 
 asked by a sceptical lady on arriving at Yokohama, 
 was what day it was there. It is doubtful if, after 
 all the efforts of the officers who were plied with 
 inquiries, any fair seeker after knowledge thoroughly 
 grasped the fact. Not that they proved themselves 
 more dense than the gentlemen, but the latter, as a 
 rule, did not bother their heads about the explana- 
 tion, but accepted the fact and thought no more 
 about it. This is how one fair writer accoimts for 
 it, but whether her explanation requires to he, 
 explained, my readers must judge : — 
 
 " We left Vancouver on a Monday and reached Japan on a 
 Monday. But the Monday between we missed out altogether. 
 There is a puzzle for you ! How could that be ? If you look 
 at a map of the world, you will see about halfway between 
 Japan and America the 180^ of longitude. That is where 
 ' East of Greenwich ' and ' West of Greenwich ' join. In 
 coming across the Atlantic and America and half of the Pacific 
 we had each day caught up the sun a little bit, till at the 180^ 
 we were twelve hours behind English time. But coming west- 
 ward to England from the East we began there at twelve hours
 
 22 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 before Greenwich time. Those twenty-four hours liad to be 
 added on to days when we were travelling westward, and we 
 had to use up a whole day of hours, and so to make our time 
 come right we had to drop out a day when we reached the 180'', 
 where the sun, as it were, sets in the west and yet rises in the 
 cast. I am afraid I cannot explain it any better." * 
 
 The above is a laudable attempt, and is a distinct 
 advance in lucidity upon the " explanation " one 
 hears sometimes from lady voyagers, as the result 
 of much patient instruction on the part of one of 
 the ship's officers. 
 
 With the exception of crossing the meridian, 
 there are not many " events " to be recorded in the 
 passage across the North Pacific. It was our good 
 fortune to pass comparatively close to two or three 
 of the Aleutian Islands, but voyagers are not always 
 sure of even a distant glimpse of land. The sight 
 of an archipelago of which the outside world knows 
 so little awakened keen interest among the passen- 
 gers. But the islands in themselves were very un- 
 interesting, being bleak, barren rocks, apparently 
 uninhabited. We approached within three miles of 
 one and took soundings. The games on board were 
 of the usual sort, such as cricket, football, shovel- 
 board, quoits, athletic sports, cards, dominoes, as 
 
 * ' Ever Westward through Heathen Lands,' by Edith M. E. 
 Baring-Gould.
 
 LIFE ON BOARD 23 
 
 well as the various games of later invention. In 
 fact, there are very few games played on land that 
 cannot be played with greater or less inconvenience 
 on sea. Golf has not yet, as far as I am aware, 
 been adapted to the restricted conditions of an ocean 
 voyage, but an enthusiastic golfer may yet be able 
 to indulge his passion on board ship. The idea 
 among the passengers in regulating their lives on 
 board is to make themselves forget, as far as 
 possible, that they are on sea and surrounded by 
 a waste of waters, " Amusements committees " are 
 dominated by that one idea. There were frequent 
 dances on board. The last two were held in the 
 open air, on the promenade deck, when we were 
 well in the Japan Stream (for Japan has its " GuK 
 Stream") and the nights were warm. Just as the 
 big dance — the farewell ball — was coming on, a 
 poor Chinaman died. But as he was " only a 
 Chinee," the only notice taken of the mournful 
 event was the postponement of the ball half-an-hour 
 to enable the doctor — one of the chief organisers — 
 to be present at the opening. Three celestials died 
 during the voyage, and, in accordance with the 
 contract, their remains were embalmed and carried 
 on to China. I may add that the bones of Chinese 
 who have died in America often form part of the
 
 24 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 West-bound cargo. They are generally shipped 
 under the entry of fishbones. A pig-tailed waiter 
 thus explained to Sir Edwin Arnold why his 
 countrymen wished to have their remains transferred 
 to Cliina. " That number one piecey God-pidgin ! " 
 said the yellow-skinned celestial; "suppose want- 
 chee go topside, after kill, then wantchee family 
 make chin-chin joss at grave. Suppose no takee 
 bones, no makee grave, no speakee chin-chin joss, 
 then not belong topside at all after kill, belong 
 hellee." That is, the Chinese attach great im- 
 portance to certain religious of&ces being performed 
 in presence of the dead man's relics, or at the spot 
 where they are buried, by surviving relatives and 
 descendants. 
 
 There is a certain interest in studying the ship life 
 of the " Heathen Chinee," although, when you come 
 in contact with him in such close quarters, you are 
 able to sympathise with the sentiment of Bret 
 Harte : — 
 
 "Which I -wish to remark — 
 And my language is plain — 
 That for ways that are dark, 
 And tricks that are vain, 
 The heathen Chinee is peculiar." 
 
 As for the way in which our Sundays were 
 observed, it need hardly be said that, in this respect
 
 SUNDAYS ON BOARD 25 
 
 toOj every facility was given for spending our 
 Sundays as far as possible as on land. It has 
 been my lot to be present, and even take a pro- 
 minent part, in divine service upon several occasions 
 on sea, but I never remember a service on shipboard 
 which so impressed me as the one in the saloon of 
 the impress of India in mid-Pacific. Everything 
 was done in order as in the best-appointed church. 
 The commander read the service as few laymen can, 
 officers and men as well as passengers joined in the 
 responses, and sang the canticles and hymns ^vith a 
 heartiuess not usual on board ship, and there was 
 observed throughout a general reverence that might 
 have been deemed inseparable from worship in a 
 sacred building. To myself (who preached) there 
 was no grievance involved in the limitation set 
 down as to the time which I was to occupy. It is 
 not surprising that the longwindedness of some who 
 "occupy the pulpit" on board our ships shoidd 
 make such restrictions necessary. After the service 
 there was a parade of the men on deck. The crew 
 numbered about two hundred, a large proportion 
 being Chinese. 
 
 One of the exciting episodes of the passage is the 
 practice of the crew in lowering the boats and dealing 
 with an imaginary outbreak of fire. All were in
 
 26 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 their allotted stations a few seconds after the sound- 
 ing of the alarm bell. To a nervous passenger, not 
 warned beforehand, such violent ringing of the bell 
 followed by such mad excitement, might prove 
 extremely awkward. Of course, the anxiety of such 
 an one cannot last many seconds, as it is soon found 
 that the wild rushing to and fro is all acting, but it 
 occurred to me, as it must occur to others, that a 
 word might with advantage be sent round beforehand 
 to the passengers without informing those who are to 
 be taken unawares. 
 
 That there is a splendid library on board the 
 Empress boats goes without sa3dng, and that it is 
 well stocked with works on China and Japan is 
 equally a matter of course. If a Japan-boimd 
 passenger goes on board with only a general idea of 
 the country he is visiting, and with no idea at all of 
 its stirring history, by the time he reaches Yokohama 
 he will know (if he be a reading man) all about 
 the sun goddess, Ama-terasu, the divine ancestress 
 of the Mikado ; of Jingo Kogo, the first Empress ; 
 of Kobo Daishi, the greatest of Japanese saints ; of 
 Hideyoshi, the great general of the Middle Ages; 
 of the Shogun lyeyasu, the greatest of Japanese 
 rulers ; of his grandson lemitsu, only less famous ; 
 and various other great names which he will hear
 
 SIGHTING JAPAN 27 
 
 every day in the course of his peregrinations through 
 the country. He will have learnt, perhaps for the 
 first time, that Japan was in a fair way of being 
 Christianised in the sixteenth century, and that 
 traces of the Jesuit mission of that day have survived 
 to the present time. The summary ejection of the 
 missionaries, the practical stamping out of Chris- 
 tianity, the all but entire closing up of the country 
 to the outer world, its sudden re-opening forty years 
 ago, and its marvellous renascence since, will have 
 interested him as a fairy tale. 
 
 The island of Kinka-zan was sighted at noon on 
 Saturday. For twenty-four hours we skirted the 
 Japanese coast, but saw little of it, owing to a thick 
 haze, till we had rounded Cape Su-zaki and were 
 steaming into the Gulf of Tokyo. All on Sunday 
 morning was bathed in glorious sunshine, and our 
 approach to the Land of the Eising Sun was as it 
 should be. None of those who were visiting Fan- 
 land for the first time w^ere doomed to disappoint- 
 ment. The beauties of the Gulf of Tokyo charmed 
 all on board. Eesidents of the country — European 
 and native alike — who were returning to their homes, 
 pointed out to us with pride the various features of 
 interest, to the right and to the left, as we coursed 
 up the picturesque bay. At one moment a quaint
 
 28 JOUBNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 little fishing village, at another an ancient shrine or 
 temple, at another a many-storied pagoda excites our 
 enthusiasm. Proceeding on our way through a fleet 
 of galley-like junks and graceful sampans, of modern 
 war-ships and merchant steamers, we arrive at length 
 at our moorings, and at noon are fast to the com- 
 pany's buoy, and are encircled by Japan. Steam 
 launches bear down upon us, the deck is rapidly 
 over-run with natives and European and American 
 residents, and amid many leave-takings I take my 
 place, along with my few imiKdimcnta, in a spick- 
 and-span sampan, and am sculled ashore by a 
 muscular little Jap, whose only garment is a breech- 
 clout.
 
 ( 29 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 YOKOHAMA. 
 
 Landing iu Japan — Custom House examination — The Jin- 
 rickisha — Coolies — Some scions of the nobility— Fares — 
 The Queen's English in Japan — Old Japan at Yokohama — 
 Hotels— The Bluff Population— Clubs— Public hall— x\u 
 American "star" — Churches — Seamen's mission room- 
 Currency — Mysterious notes — Piailways — Carriages — The 
 natives as fellow-passengers — Commissariat — Fares — Lug- 
 gage — Officials — "Treaty ports" — Passport regulations — A 
 recent change. 
 
 We are on Japanese soil. The examination at the 
 Custom House is a mere formality. The attempt 
 to smuggle opium alone can cause any real trouble. 
 Even Japanese of&cials, the pink of politeness and 
 courtesy as they are, and ever with a smile of 
 welcome for the foreigner who lands on the shores 
 from which he was so long excluded, can scowl at 
 the sight of the contraband drug. Landing iu the 
 Far East is not the ordeal it is in the East, notably 
 at Jaffa. The sight of a fleet of sampans racing to 
 meet the incoming steamer need strike no terror into 
 the heart of the timid tourist, like that caused by the
 
 30 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 notorious boatmen of Syria. The Jap is the exact 
 antithesis of the Arab — the maritime as well as the 
 inland type. 
 
 A row of coolies with thGii jinrickisJias is in wait- 
 ing on the landing-stage — not the noisy, pestilent 
 tribe which is ready to pounce upon the new arrival 
 in some ports nearer home. Though each tries to be 
 the first to arrest the attention of the new-comer, 
 there is no unseemly wrangling, no angry disputing. 
 The competition is friendly and good-humoured. 
 
 The national vehicle of Japan — which suggests an 
 overgrown perambulator — is tolerably well known 
 by this time to English readers, but it is not 
 generally known that it did not originate with the 
 tlapanese, but was introduced among them by an 
 American about thirty years ago. The assimilative 
 Japs were so taken up with it that its use soon 
 became general. It is now found throughout the 
 different islands which compose the Empire, and the 
 district is very outlandish indeed where there is not 
 a jinricJdsha. Every village where the road is at all 
 practicable boasts a number of them. Besides those 
 for public hire, many of the well-to-do Japanese have 
 private jinrickishas. One hears a good deal of the 
 powers of endurance of the coolie, but very ex- 
 aggerated accounts are sometimes given. He is not
 
 "JINRICKISHA'' MEN 31 
 
 the being of almost superlmman powers which he is 
 sometimes represented to be. An occasional one is 
 met with who will bound along a great distance v,ith 
 more than an ordinary load of humanity after him, 
 and at the end of the journey exhibit very little 
 fatigue, but he is rather the exception. Very many 
 seem ill-fitted for such a laborious way of earning a 
 living, either having seen their best days and worn 
 themselves out in the service, or having never had 
 a strong constitution to start with. More than once 
 did I hesitate to employ a coolie on the ground 
 of his generally emasculated appearance, and thought 
 it a doubtful kindness to give him a job. But many, 
 on the other hand, are full of vigoui', and, although 
 there is a certain uneasy feeling at first in allowing 
 oneself to be drawn along by a human being in a 
 shaft, an occasional one is so very muscular and able- 
 bodied that disquieting thoughts of countenancing a 
 form of slavery do not obtrude themselves. It is 
 said that there are found in the ranks of the coolies 
 scions of some of the noblest houses of Japan. Hovv^ 
 far that is true I don't know, but members of the old 
 samurai or retainer class, who were disbanded at the 
 fall of the feudal system, seem to be plentiful enough 
 among them. Just as there are said to be two or 
 three baronets, and others vv'ith handles to theu'
 
 32 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 names, among London cabbies, so among the jin- 
 rickisha-man of Tokyo, rumour says, there are mem- 
 bers of the titled nobility of the country. That a 
 broken-down baronet or the son of a baronet should 
 in liis distress take to running a cab is not so very 
 surprising, if he delights in horseflesh, as by so doing, 
 in addition to making a living, he gratifies a passion, 
 but we can only suppose that a Japanese count or 
 the son of a count (for Japan has, among its western 
 innovations, our titles) takes to the profession in 
 order to gain a livelihood. The coolie service can 
 offer no other attraction, though sometimes a coolie 
 of exceptional muscle seems to take a' positive 
 delight, like a well-conditioned horse, in bounding 
 along with his human load at the top of his speed. 
 But to men with an inferior physique the service 
 cannot be otherwise than very killing, and the 
 prematm^ely decrepit appearance of many of them 
 is not surprising. I have written here of the 
 genus at some length, as I may not revert to the 
 subject beyond making casual references. A few 
 particulars as to fares may be added. At jinrickisha 
 stands there is a tariff hung up on a conspicuous 
 board. Generally, even in the interior, the in- 
 formation is given in! English as well as in 
 the vernacular, and very amusing specimens of the
 
 OLD JAPAN AT YOKOHAMA 83 
 
 Queen's English are sometimes seen, the work of some 
 local student too confident in his own proficiency to 
 submit his translation for re\dsion to an Englishman. 
 The fare for a short distance is nominally five sen 
 (cent), but double that is expected of foreigners and 
 is recognised as the retrular charge. In fact, there is 
 practically one tariff for the native and one for the 
 foreigner. The charge, as given on the tariff board, 
 is ten sen by the hour and seventy-five sen by the 
 day, but a pourloire of quite an equal amount is 
 expected of foreigners. If the Japanese coolie is not 
 quite so rapacious as the European cabby or the 
 American hackman, he knows how to grumble when 
 the fare ofiered is only the bare amount due. But it 
 is not often, probably, that he has occasion to grumble, 
 as there is no class of men in or out of Japan to 
 whom one gives a grratuity with greater pleasm-e. 
 
 Yokohama has by tliis time become to a great ex- 
 tent Europeanised or Americanised, but there is still 
 a good deal of old Japan left, and is likely to remain 
 for a long time to come. It is possible to see, in the 
 course of a stroll through the native quarter, almost 
 every phase of Japanese life with which we have 
 been familiarised by fan, or tray, or screen. The 
 visitor is fascinated by a succession of living Japanese 
 tableaux. 
 
 D
 
 34 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 There are three leading hotels in Yokohama, 
 namely, the Grand Hotel and the Club Hotel, facing 
 the Bund, or sea-wall, and the Oriental, at the back 
 of the Grand, in Main Street, all within a convenient 
 distance of the landing-place. Each seems as well 
 appointed as any hotel of their class in Europe. My 
 experience of hotels in the Far East did not commence 
 till I arrived at Tokyo. I put up at a private 
 ])oarding-house on the Bluff, the landlady of whicli 
 (Miss Brittan) proved to be a native of my own 
 county. The house is one of two or three in Japan 
 which are primarily designed for the accommodation of 
 missionaries and their families, and is thoroughly 
 comfortable. The Bluff, on which most of the well- 
 to-do residents have their elegant villas and bunga- 
 lows, commands a beautiful view of the Bay, and 
 there is ample compensation for the rather steep 
 climb. Not that Europeans and Americans often 
 walk up the Bluff. They must generally hail a 
 jinrickisha, for whicli (unless the load is unusually 
 light) a single coolie is not sufficient, the assistance 
 of an atoshi, or pusher, being necessary. Some of 
 our countrymen and countrywomen in Japan think 
 it out of the question to go even half a mile on foot. 
 You are almost everywhere, in the towns, within 
 hailing distance of a riclcisha, and, the charge being
 
 FOREIGNEES AT YOKOHAMA 35 
 
 SO reasonable, walking with many becomes the 
 exception. 
 
 The foreign population of Yokohama, according to 
 the last official census, was 3,700, but that number 
 included 2,471 Chinese. The British residents num- 
 bered 616, the American 187, the German 170, and 
 the French 101. In the Yokohama United Club the 
 British and American residents have a splendid centre 
 of social intercourse, and the library is one of the most 
 complete in the Far East. Other clubs are the Club 
 Germania, the Masonic Temple, and the Chess Club. 
 Yokohama also possesses a fine public hall, where 
 theatrical and other entertainments are given, and 
 where an occasional star of English or American 
 celebrity appears. It may not always pay a distin- 
 guished artiste to go on tour through Japan, but when 
 the visit is one primarily of pleasure and sight-seeing 
 a little business may be conveniently combined with 
 it. A lady of eminence in the American musical 
 world made her public appearance at Kobe during 
 my stay there, but if she came out to Japan with a 
 view to making money, it is to be feared, from the 
 attendance at her concerts at that port, that her 
 speculation proved a bad one. 
 
 The spiritual interests of the Western colony are 
 by no means neglected. The AngKcan Church is well 
 
 D 2
 
 36 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 represented there, as well as the Congregationalists, 
 the Methodists, and the Eoman Catholics. An excel- 
 lent institution in the foreign settlement is the Sea- 
 men's JMission Eoom, nnder the charge of the Eev. 
 W. T. Austin, the Chaplain. The reading-room is 
 the best I have come upon in any foreign port, far or 
 near, and must prove a boon to our seamen which 
 they do not often find. I turned in every day during 
 my stay in the port (for, though not a seaman, I was 
 assured of a w^elcome), and always found it well 
 patronised. 
 
 The Japanese currency, strange as the money seems 
 at first, is soon mastered. It is on the decimal sys- 
 tem, and consists of the yen as the unit (which, at 
 par, corresponds to the American dollar), the sen (or 
 cent, the hundredth part of a yen), and the rin (the 
 tenth of a sen). There are paper notes of 1, 5, and 
 10 yen and upward, as well as of 20 sen and 50 sen. 
 Gold is practically never seen. The silver pieces are 
 1 ye7i, 50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen, and 5 sen. There is also 
 a nickel piece of 5 sen. The copper pieces are 2 sen, 
 1 sen, 5 rin, and 1 rin. The rin is a peculiar-looking 
 coin, having a square hole in the centre. The value 
 of the yeoi is based on the fluctuating value of the 
 Mexican silver dollar, which is the monetary unit 
 throut^hout the Far East. Some of the notes have
 
 CURRENCY 37 
 
 their value indicated in English as well as in the lan- 
 guage of the country, but where tliis is not the case, 
 the Englishman stares at the note with as little profit 
 as he would at Cleopatra's Needle till some kind friend 
 enlightens him. I was congratulating myself upon 
 the rapidity with which I thought I liad mastered the 
 currency when, on booking myself for my first rail- 
 way journey in the country, I was handed as change 
 a numljer of notes, all in Chinese or Japanese char- 
 acters, in which I looked in vain for a single Euro- 
 pean letter or figure. There was no time to find out 
 if the change was correct, and, besides, the booking- 
 clerk knew no English. I had not yet had occasion 
 to put to a practical test my stock of Japanese 
 acquired on the journey out. 
 
 Nothing perhaps will surprise the English visitor 
 to Japan so much as the rapid development in that 
 country of railway locomotion. Eailways now connect 
 all the principal cities, and there were, in 1892, 1,717 
 miles of road, and 609 miles in course of construction. 
 The first lines were built by English engineers, and 
 for some years were worked by Englishmen, but all 
 the railway systems of the country are now entkely 
 in the hands of natives. The carriages consist of 
 three compartments, the second class being comfort- 
 able enough for travelliucr short distances. As the
 
 38 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 rate of speed is much slower than it is on our own 
 railways (the gauge is slightly narrower), a journey 
 of two or three hundred miles would be fatiguing in 
 the second, and the first (in which there is generally 
 ample room) is recommended to Englishmen for a 
 journey of that length. The Japs are inveterate 
 railway travellers, but they make very little use of 
 the first, and not very much of the second. Into 
 the third they crowd like cattle, but travelling in 
 the tliird with the Japs (as an Englishman will some- 
 times do either from motives of economy, or in order 
 to gain a closer acquaintance with the people) is far 
 more comfortable than travelling among the peasantry 
 on the continent of Europe. The compartment may 
 be more primitive and the seats harder than in 
 Em^ope, but one's fellow-travellers are more innately 
 gentle and more studious of the comfort of others 
 than Europeans of the same class. European resi- 
 dents of the country may have a different tale to tell, 
 but I must speak of the people as I found them, and 
 I say that, during my two months' travelling, I found 
 myself on various occasions, when making a short 
 journey, in a third class carriage, and, though I was 
 eyed with a great deal of curiosity, the courtesy of 
 my fellow-passengers made the journey always a 
 pleasant one. There are as yet no sleeping-cars or
 
 BAIL WAYS 39 
 
 dining-cars, but neat little boxes of Japanese food are 
 brought round at all the principal stations. A potful 
 of tea (including, besides the pot, a tiny cup) may be 
 had for a few se7i. But the commissariat department 
 on Japanese railways has yet to be developed, and 
 the European traveller who goes a long distance is 
 obliged, if he has not become reconciled to Japanese 
 food, to take his own along with him. 
 
 The fares are on the general basis of three sen per 
 mile for first class, two for second class, and one for 
 thii'd class. 
 
 Luggage is checked as in America, first-class 
 passengers being allowed 100 pounds free, and second 
 class passengers 60 pounds, but it need hardly be said 
 that, among such a kind-hearted people, a slight ex- 
 cess is taken no account of. Officiousuess is not a 
 characteristic of Japanese officials. I must say that 
 from my first acquaintance with Japanese railway 
 officials, when I first entered the station at Yokohama 
 and beheld a sight which I shall not soon forget — a 
 platform almost covered with squatting figures, as if 
 standing out from one vast screen, who all stood up 
 as one man, and hurried along with clattering clogs 
 that resounded through the whole building as soon as 
 the train came in — till my last experience of them at 
 the same station two months later, I found every
 
 40 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 station-master, booking-clerk, guard and porter, in 
 fact, as well as in name, a servant of the public. 
 
 Travelling beyond the limits of the open ports (or 
 "Treaty Ports," namely, Yokohama, Kobe, Osaka, 
 Nagasaki, Hakodate, and Niigata) is still strictly for- 
 bidden the foreigner who is not fortified with a pass- 
 port. The free limit is a radius of 10 ri (nearly 24-^ 
 miles) from each port. As Tokyo is within that 
 radius of Yokoliama, it is practically, like the latter, 
 an open port, and may be visited without a permit. 
 It would be quite futile to try to evade the passport 
 regulations. The system is much more real and 
 exacting than it is in any European country or in 
 Asiatic Turkey. When the foreigner books ]ii:nself 
 to any point beyond the free limit, he is asked for his 
 mcnjo, and it has to be produced on his arrival at a 
 native inn, and may be demanded by any police officer 
 on the journey. A change occurred in the passport 
 regulations about the time of my arrival which did 
 away with a gi'eat inconvenience. Up to that time 
 it was necessary to name in the document the places 
 which the traveller intended visiting. To deviate 
 from the route marked out l)eforehand was then im- 
 possible. My passport was one of the first issued 
 under the new regulations, which made the passport 
 one of general use for the whole country. Applica-
 
 PASSPOETS 41 
 
 tion for a pcissport has to be made through one's con- 
 sul, who obtains it from the Foreign Office at Tokyo. 
 Three months is the maximum time for which it is 
 usually granted, but upon its expiration it may be 
 renewed. British subjects arc charged by their Con- 
 sul two dollars for a passport, while Americans only 
 pay a few cents.
 
 42 JOUBNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE Jxil'S 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 KAMAKURA AND ENOSIIIMA. 
 
 " Midzu " — The Tokaido railway — Disorganised service — Sccno 
 at Yokohama station — Japanese railway stations — The 
 favoured foreign language — "Three little maids from 
 school " ? — 'Will Adams and the ladies — Intense blackness 
 of the ladies' hair — How Sir Edwin Arnold describes it — 
 The Japanese and European complexion — A student — 
 Interviewer and interviewed — Arrival at Kamakura— Storj' 
 of an ancient capital — A IMongolian " Armada " — Kublai 
 Khan — A Japanese "Bayeux tapestry" — Temple of Hachi- 
 man — Venerable tree — "Pure Shinto" — The Dai Butsu — A 
 lew dimensions— Seeing the wild beast feeding — A good- 
 natured crowd — An amusing " lai^sus lingux " — Village 
 chartographers — Reception of a famous American — Temple 
 of Kwannon — En route to Enoshima — Katase and Koshigoe 
 — Welcome at a yadoya — Entering a Japanese house — A 
 native "interpreter" — A Japanese diet — Enoshima — ^Benten 
 — A hitch — Moralising — A ride (or drive?) to Fujisawa — 
 A romance — A faithful courtesan — Return to Yokohama. 
 
 My first excursion from Yokohama was to Kamakura 
 and Enoshima, for which no passport was required. 
 It was but a day's outing, for which Midzu (" cold 
 water"), the native servant at the house, who was 
 said to "know English," provided me with some 
 excellent luncheon (bento) wrapped up in the artistic
 
 TEE TOKAIDO BAIL WAY 43 
 
 paper of the country. My route was along the 
 Tokaido Eailway, which connects Tokyo with Kyoto. 
 Though there were ordinarily frequent trains be- 
 tween Yokohama and Kamakura, the return of the 
 troops from the seat of war had for some time so 
 disorganised the usual arrangements that it was 
 quite impossible to find out much in advance when a 
 train for the general public would be available. I 
 was told not to put my faith in time-tables, but to 
 go to the station immediately after breakfast and 
 there wait patiently for a train whenever the autho- 
 rities would see their way to put one on. That I 
 did, and was considered fortunate at being only kept 
 waiting two hours and a half. But finding myself 
 in a Japanese station for the first time, surrounded 
 by a crowd of the happiest little people in the world, 
 I was never at a loss for subject-matter for study, 
 and even two hours and a half passed away quite 
 pleasantly. At length the word went round that a 
 train was about to proceed West, and the excitement 
 among the good-natured, slant-eyed, picturesque com- 
 pany whom I had been watching with such keen 
 interest, and the good-humoured competition for the 
 best seats, were a sight to behold. The fare, second 
 class, to Kamakura was 30 sen. The ticket was of the 
 English card pattern, with the class and the destina-
 
 41 JOUBNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 tion in English. Some directions for passengers 
 were in English, sucli as "Way Out," "Waiting 
 Eoom," and the station was quite European. But 
 in many of the stations in the interior, the only 
 information intelligible to a European was the name 
 of the station on the platform in Eoman characters, 
 which always appeared above or beneath the name 
 in Japanese. One looked in vain for anything else 
 that was legible, either on the train or in the station. 
 Still, an Englishmen must find it much easier to 
 travel in Japan than any other European. When 
 any pul)lic information is given in any European 
 language as well as in Japanese it is almost invari- 
 ably in English. French and Italian are seen, but 
 very rarely. 
 
 Sharing my compartment were three dainty 
 Japanese maidens — " three little maids from school " 
 they looked like. How exactly Will Adams's de- 
 scription of nearly three centuries ago applies to 
 Japanese ladies now! This is how that observant 
 old seaman found them : " Then haire very blacke 
 and very long, tyed vp in a knot vpon the crowne in 
 a comely manner : their heads no where shaven as 
 the men's are. They were well faced, handed, and 
 footed ; cleare skind and white, but wanting colour, 
 which they amend by arte ; of stature lo^^' . . , very
 
 TEE WOMENKIND 45 
 
 cmteous in beliavioiir ; not ignorant of tlie respect to 
 be giuen vnto persons according to their fashion." 
 Some "Writers have not been content with describing 
 the hair of Japanese women as "very blacke/' as 
 quaint Will Adams does. The blackness is such 
 that they cannot lay too much stress upon its in- 
 tensity, and the resources of our language seem to 
 fail them in conveying an adequate idea of its depth. 
 This is how Sir Edwin Arnold describes it, and if his 
 language does not do full justice to it, no one can 
 hope to succeed where such a master has failed : 
 "His palette had not any black pigments black 
 enough to represent the night-dark depths of the 
 tresses of the Japanese girl. Those puffed and 
 perfumed handeaux of oiled coiffure, so carefully 
 dressed, and arranged so that no single hair strays 
 from the rigid splendour of the toilette room, would 
 make a jetty spot on the heart of midnight. So 
 black that the very highest lights of it are blue- 
 black beyond inky blackness ; black, so that ebony 
 would be grey beside it. The glittering tenebrosity 
 of it makes her little visage and her little nape and 
 throat emerge like dyed ivory from the contrast." 
 The Japanese, on the other hand, do not experience 
 the same difficulty in describing the complexion of 
 Europeans. All Europeans whose hair is not posi-
 
 46 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 tively black are one and all to the Japanese " red." 
 They make no distinction, though their language is 
 quite capable of it. According to Sir Edwin Arnold, 
 they would be right in calling even a dark-com- 
 plexioned Englishman "grey," compared with the 
 "night-dark" tenebrosity of the hair of then- own 
 womenkind. 
 
 But to return to the three demure little maids 
 who shared my compartment en route to Kamakura. 
 With them were two students, one of whom was on 
 speaking terms with my own language. Such an 
 opportunity of airing his knowledge of English was 
 not to be missed. He plied me with a string of 
 questions about my country, about myself personally, 
 about my journey out, and asked me for my impres- 
 sions of Japan, on the shores of which I had only 
 landed a few hours before. Having answered him 
 according to the tenor of his words, I in turn became 
 the interviewer. Education, religion, politics, were 
 each touched upon till the train drew up at Ofuua 
 Junction, where I had to leave the Tokaido and take to 
 a branch line. Cards were exchanged (an inevitable 
 formality under such chcum stances in Japan), and 
 the hope expressed on both sides that we should one 
 day meet in far-away England. It is the dream of 
 every Japanese student to be privileged some day to
 
 KAMAKURA 47 
 
 visit England and America, and no Englishman 
 cherishes the fond hope of one day seeing the 
 countries of the Far East more than many an educated 
 Jap looks forward to a visit to those of the Far "West, 
 
 A few minutes' ride along the branch line brought 
 me to the station of Kamakura, and, ranged in a 
 semi-circle outside the station, were a number of 
 jinricJcishas to convey the passengers to the historic 
 sights — all some distance away — of Kamakura. I, 
 however, elected to w\alk on this my first excursion 
 into the country of Japan, and in twenty minutes 
 arrived on the beach. 
 
 Kamakura, which is now, save for a few interest- 
 ing relics of antiquity, an insignificant sea-side 
 village, was once the capital of eastern Japan, and is 
 said to have at one time contained over a million 
 people. At Kamakura the Shogun Yoritomo, at the 
 end of the twelfth century, laid the foundation of 
 that military feudalism which bore so many points 
 of resemblance to the English feudal system, and 
 wliich only came to an end with the Eevolution of 
 18G8. Some of the stirring events in Japanese 
 history occurred on the spot which I had now 
 reached, and which presented so striking a contrast 
 to its former troubled state. That peaceful scene 
 was the arena of many a sanguinary feud between
 
 48 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 ii\'til military factions. On that sca-sboro were 
 beheaded the ambassadors of Knblai Khan, wliose 
 attempt to invade Japan in the thirteenth century is 
 remarkable as being the last made by a foreign foe. 
 For Japanese history has its " Armada " episode, 
 not less stirring than that of our own history. In 
 1259 A.D. Kublai Khan — till then invincible — invaded 
 the coasts of Japan with an armed host of 150,000 
 men and a vast fleet of ships and boats ; but the 
 elements, not less than the courage of the Japanese, 
 wrought havoc among the Mongolian "Armada," 
 and large numbers of the men were captured and 
 beheaded. Our distinguished countryman. Sir 
 Edwin Arnold, who has written with such fascin- 
 ation of Japan, was the means of a most interesting 
 contemporaneous illustration of that event being 
 placed in safe custody in the Eoyal Archives. It 
 was painted on a silken scroll, and was brought 
 under Su- Edwin Arnold's notice at Tokyo by some 
 natives of high rank and offered to him for sale at 
 his own price. Sir Edwin, comparing it to our own 
 Bayeux Tapestry, told them that it ought not to be 
 allowed to leave the country, and sent them to the 
 palace with a letter to the Imperial secretary. It 
 was submitted to the Mikado, who, after thoroughly 
 inspecting it, ordered it to be deposited in the Eoyal
 
 TEE TEMPLE OF HACIUMAN 49 
 
 Archives, and paid a handsome sum for it to the 
 owners. 
 
 Kamakura seems to have been repeatedly de- 
 stroyed and as often rebuilt, till, early in the seven- 
 teenth century, it was completely ruined, and Yedo 
 became the capital. The chief and almost the only 
 remains that survive to attest its former greatness 
 are the Temple of Hachiman, the God of War (con- 
 taining several famous relics), the colossal bronze 
 statue of Buddha — the Dai-Butsu — and the image 
 of the so-called Thousand-Handed Kwannon, the 
 Goddess of Mercy. 
 
 The first, dating from the end of the twelfth 
 century, occupies a commanding position on a hill 
 and is approached by an imposing avenue leading 
 up from the sea. One tree, nearly twenty feet in 
 circumference, is supposed to be twelve hundred 
 years old. The main temple stands at the head of a 
 flight of stone steps. Destroyed by fire early in the 
 century, it was rebuilt in the year 1828 in the 
 Byobu Shinto, or mixed Sliinto {i.e., native) and 
 Buddhist {i.e., Indian) style, having red pillars, 
 beams, and rafters, and adorned with painted 
 carvings of birds and animals. I propose to de- 
 scribe briefly in a special chapter the religious 
 systems of Japan, and shall there have occasion 
 
 E
 
 50 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 to refer to the important reform which resulted from 
 the Eevolution of 1868, by which Shinto was purged 
 of its Buddhist accretions, and a return made to the 
 "pure Shinto" of the early ages. The Temple of 
 Hacliiman, like many others, was despoiled of much 
 of its beauty by the zeal of the reformers, who aimed 
 at a severe simplicity of style. 
 
 But the chief sight of Kamakura, as, indeed, it is 
 one of the chief sights of Japan, is the Dai-Butsu, 
 which is the most famous of Japanese works of art. 
 Some of the dimensions, as given by Murray, will 
 give my readers some idea of its massiveness. They 
 are as follows : height, 49 feet 7 inches ; circumfer- 
 ence, 97 feet 2 inches ; length of face, 8 feet 5 inches '■> 
 length of eye, 3 feet 11 inches; length of ear, 6 feet 
 6 inches ; width of mouth, 3 feet 2 inches ; circum- 
 ference of thumb, 3 feet. The image is of bronze, 
 and is supposed to have been cast in 1252. In the 
 interior of it is a small shrine. Visitors often get 
 photographed seated in the lap or on the thumb of 
 the image. Professor Basil Chamberlain, the great 
 Japanese scholar, says of it that " no other gives such 
 an impression of majesty, or so truly symbolises the 
 central idea of Buddhism — the intellectual calm 
 which comes of perfected knowledge and the sub- 
 jugation of all passion."
 
 A GOOD-NATURED CROWD 51 
 
 Duriug an interval in my round of sight-seeing at 
 Kamakura, I sat down in front of a tea-house to 
 dispose of my hento (lunch). Soon there flocked 
 around to see the wild beast feeding a number of 
 the villagers, young and old, but their evident good 
 humour made their presence pleasing rather than 
 offensive. I sincerely lamented my inability to 
 understand and appreciate the jokes w^hich I felt 
 were being cracked at my expense by the wits in the 
 crowd. Not only my person, but my actions supplied 
 a tempting field for the exercise of theii' humorous 
 faculty. When, for instance, to quench my thirst, 
 I was handed by the bewildered w\aiting-maid a 
 tumblerful of Jiot water because I had ordered " o-yu " 
 (hot water) instead of " midzu" (cold w^ater), the 
 merriment of the company knew no bounds. Two 
 squatted down with me on the bench, and were very 
 much interested in my guide-book, especially in the 
 map of Japan. Though the names on the map were 
 as strange to them as the Hiragana characters are to 
 an Englishman, one of them soon succeeded in putting 
 his finger upon the position of Kamakura, and his 
 pride (as far as a Jap can be said to have pride) in 
 pointing out his discovery to others less intelligent 
 than himself was natural enough imder the circum- 
 stances., I had another proof later in the day of the 
 
 E 2
 
 52 JOUENEYB AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 intelligence of the natives as displayed in the use of 
 maps and plans, A coolie, in trying to convey to me 
 an idea of the position of a place which I wished to 
 visit, drew on the ground a rough sketch of Kamakura 
 and the immediate neighbourhood, and marked the 
 site very precisely (as I afterwards found). The 
 main roads, the coastline, the Dai-Butsu, and the 
 Temple of Hachiman, were given with the precision 
 of a scientific chartographer. One was inclined to 
 echo the sentiment of the famous American who, on 
 landing at Yokohama, and hearing himself greeted 
 by the crowd, to his great surprise, with shouts of 
 " oJiayo ! " (good morning), and thinking that they 
 were honouring his native state — Ohio — exclaimed, 
 " These little Japs are a wonderful people ! " 
 
 The Temple of Kwannon stands not far from the 
 Dai-Butsu, on a hill commanding a fine view of 
 Kamakura and the sea. The temple is celebrated 
 for a gold-gilt figure of KAvannon, the Goddess of 
 Mercy, which is over thirty feet high. 
 
 From Kamakura I walked along a road skirting 
 the shore to Enoshima — four miles distant — passing 
 through two small villages called Katase and Koshi- 
 goe. The whole route was no less historical than 
 picturesque. When Kamakura was at the height of 
 its glory, this — one of the chief approaches to the
 
 WELCOME AT A " YADOYA" 53 
 
 city — was the scene of many events of stirring 
 interest. At the hamlet of Katase I had to leave 
 the road and walk across a long stretch of sand, and 
 over an arm of the sea by a bamboo bridge, till I 
 entered the one street which constitutes the village 
 of Enoshima. After trying one yadoya (inn) recom- 
 mended to me, and failing to attract attention, I 
 made for another {EUsu-ya), where I was received 
 with such a welcome as I had read of in books on 
 Japan, but now experienced for the first time. Who 
 will forget his first reception at a Japanese inn — the 
 soft melodious chorus of " oliayos ! " the lowly pros- 
 trations on knees and noses by host, hostess and 
 waiting-maids, the exquisite politeness of the whole 
 personnel of the house, and the competition among 
 the merry-hearted mousmes for the honour of un- 
 lacing the " honourable guest's " boots ? Generally, 
 the visitor has to do that operation himself, in the 
 last resort, owing to the maids' want of acquaintance 
 with his peculiar foot-gear. The necessity of taldng 
 off one's boots on entering a Japanese house may be 
 irksome, but the foreigner would Ije a bore indeed 
 who would think of stepping on those immaculately 
 clean mats with his boots on. There is no need to 
 be told the custom of the country in that respect : 
 instinct alone would cause the traveller, not abso-
 
 54 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 liitely boorish, to doll' his shoes. We must not forget 
 that those beautiful mats are the chairs and tables 
 and couches of the country. What should we say if 
 a man came into our dra^Ying-room and went upon 
 our chairs and sofas with his boots on ? We should 
 probably resent it much more angrily than the kind- 
 hearted, good-natured Jap would resent the soiling 
 by a European boor of the soft, clean tatamis of his 
 house. Still, the offence would be the same. The 
 Japanese cannot understand the custom which they 
 are told prevails in the Far West, of making a street 
 or a pavement of the interior of a dwelling. 
 
 None of the natives who almost embarrassed me 
 with their attentions at the Elisu-ya knew a word of 
 English, but a neighbour was sent for who, no doubt, 
 was looked up to by his fellow-villagers as a wonder- 
 ful linguist, but who, as an English interpreter, was 
 absolutely worthless. He did not know as much of my 
 language as I did of his. However, I had no serious 
 difficulty in making my v/ants known. A meal was 
 set before me, but, hungry though I was, I had not 
 yet been long enough in the country to relish the 
 delicacies of a purely Japanese diet. I had to be 
 content with merely appeasing my hunger, and 
 looking forward to a good English supper at Yoko- 
 hama after my day's sight-seeing were over. Amid
 
 ENOSHIMA 55 
 
 a general chorus of " sayoiuXras " (farewell), and the 
 " Please come again " of the " interpreter," I took my 
 departure, and set out to " do " Enoshima. 
 
 As I have said, Enoshima practically consists of 
 one street, the shops of which are stocked with the 
 sea-shells, corals, rope-sponges, and other marine 
 curios for which the locality is celebrated. From 
 earliest times Enoshima has been sacred to Benten, 
 the Goddess of Luck in the Buddhist pantheon. On 
 the far side of the island is a large cave, said to be 
 370 feet in depth, associated in the mythology of the 
 country with a savage monster that used to devour 
 the children of the village of Koshigoe, till Benten, 
 coming down from the clouds, married him. There 
 are several temples on the island, all more or less 
 interesting. 
 
 Eetracing my way back to Katase, I took a 
 Jcuncma for Eujisawa, on the Tokaido Eailway, about 
 three miles off. At one time it looked as if I should 
 have to do the journey on foot, and thus run the risk 
 of missing the last train for Yokohama. The owner 
 of the kuruma demanded more than double the right 
 fare. I appealed to the tariff-board facing us, on 
 which the precise charge was given in English and 
 Japanese. The usual crowd of natives gathered 
 round, but though the disputants were a countryman
 
 56 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 and a foreigner, no particular sympathy, as far as I 
 could make out, was displayed with the former. 
 Their crowding round was due to mere curiosity, and 
 when the foreigner carried his point, and the native 
 yielded under protest, their friendly attitude towards 
 me was quite unaffected by the result, and to my 
 " sayondra" they responded in unison and with 
 evident heartiness " sayondi^a." Incidents of that 
 kind in Japan cannot fail to set one moralising and 
 contrasting the conduct of the Japanese with that of 
 Europeans under similar circumstances, to the de- 
 cided disadvantage of the latter. 
 
 Off the kuruma-ya — a mere stripling, but sturdy 
 notwithstanding — trundled at a sharp trot, along an 
 interesting, and, for the most part, shaded road, and 
 in half-an-hour drew up at a tea-house, near the 
 station of Fujisawa. A few biscuits and some lemon- 
 ade — in addition to the not very relishable tea — were 
 all that I could get, for love or money, to satisfy the 
 inner man; but they were welcome as far as they 
 went, and the horn' before my train was spent in 
 strolling about the village. Though Fujisawa has no 
 particular attractions, it has its romance, for in it are 
 shown the tombs of Oguri Hangwan, and a courtesan 
 of the village, Terute Hime by name, of whom the 
 following stories are told. A conspiracy to drug him
 
 A FAITHFUL COURTESAN 57 
 
 with sake, and then murder him, was made known 
 by Terute Hime to Oguri Hangwan, who thereupon 
 vaulted upon the back of a wild horse, which he 
 had seized, and escaped to Fujisawa, On another 
 occasion, his enemies having decoyed him into a 
 poisonous bath which induced leprosy, his mistress 
 — more faithful than Samson's — wheeled him in a 
 barrow all the way to the famous sulphur springs of 
 Yunomine, in Kishu, where a week's bathing restored 
 him to health and strength. 
 
 Leaving Fujisawa at nine, I arrived at Yokohama 
 a little before ten, having completed in one day an 
 excursion to which two days are usually devoted.
 
 58 JOURNEYS AMONG THE QENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE UAKOInE hills. 
 
 r]aitliquakc — Scismological Society — Earthquake drill — A 
 popular idea — The next volcano — Passport — An ollicial 
 fiction — Provisions — Kodzu — Reception of a hero of the 
 war- — Squatting — One effect of railways — The Jap as a 
 fellow-traveller — As a smoker — Tea-house — A long tram- 
 ride — The Tokaido — Odawara — " Odawara Conference " — 
 Castle — Yumoto — Tonosawa — A charming yadoya — 
 UibacJd — Ewa San — Embarrassing attention — Keo 
 San — Intruders — The Buyu — Early rising — The Hon. Miss 
 Ewa takes a seat — Pare luxvuy — Bathing — A week in a 
 bath ! — Cleanliness before Godliness — Evading a toll — 
 Miyanoshita — Fuji-ya — Special industry — Kagos — Ash l- 
 noyu — Matsuzaka-ya — His Japanese wife — A French 
 journalist and Japanese ladies — Miss Bacon's testimony — 
 Looking down upon Hakone — Return journey — Uncertainty 
 of trains — Tokyo. 
 
 A FAVOUniTE holiday resort of the foreign residents 
 of Yokohama and Tokyo, is the Hakone district, to 
 which I made an excm'sion two days later. As I 
 was preparing to set out for the station, immediately 
 after " tiffin," Yokohama was visited by an earth- 
 quake, which, although it caused comparatively little
 
 EARTHQUAKE 59 
 
 excitement among the residents, was decidedly dis- 
 quieting to a new-comer. Though there is said to 
 be on an average one earthquake a day in Japan 
 (and proLably that is an exaggeration) most of them 
 are only registered by delicate instruments — seis- 
 mometer, seismogTaph, or seismophone — and the 
 inhabitants have no knowledge of them. But the 
 tremor which agitated Yokohama that day was 
 unpleasantly perceptible, and if it had happened 
 in England, would have caused considerable stir. It 
 happened on the anniversary of the day on which 
 an unusually violent earthquake had occurred in 
 eastern Japan the year before, by which some lives 
 were lost, and there was a popular presentiment that 
 another was going to happen that day. But for 
 that general anticipation, which had w^rought upon 
 the nerves of the more timid ones, the event would 
 have caused no excitement whatever. It is well- 
 known that Japan is pre-eminently a land of earth- 
 quakes, being, next to the Philippine Islands, the 
 most unstable country, physically, of any in the 
 world. You never know at what moment you may 
 have to rush out of the house, to get beyond the 
 range of falling timbers, and there is the danger, 
 when you have got clear, of disappearing in a gaping 
 fissure in the earth. But many of the best educated
 
 60 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 Japanese show themselves wonderfully cool in face 
 of the danger, and seem bent more upon taking 
 accurate notes of the phenomena with watch and 
 instrument, and acting upon the instructions circu- 
 lated by the Seismological Society, than upon looking 
 after their personal safety. But the first impulse of 
 the mass of the people is still to rush out of doors, 
 and familiarity with earthquakes has only made 
 them the more alive to the danger. It is said that 
 the people are taught from childhood a regular 
 earthquake drill. If the house be open when the 
 first tremor comes, the occupants rush out of doors 
 helter-skelter ; but if it be closed, each man or 
 woman or child takes hold of one of the mado 
 (outer shutters), and rushes away with it on his 
 or her head, as a protection from falling tiles, and 
 as soon as the nearest open space is reached, lays it 
 on the ground and sits on it, thereby minimising 
 the danger of falling into cracks in the earth's 
 surface. There is a popular idea that ground on 
 which iDamboo grows is less likely to be rent than 
 open land, the interlacing roots being supposed to 
 hold the ground together, and bamboo groves are 
 consequently said to ha much sought by a panic- 
 stricken populace on the occasion of an earthquake. 
 The deduction has been made from a large nundjer
 
 AN OFFICIAL FICTION 61 
 
 of scientific observations of seismic phenomena that 
 a certain spot very near Yokohama will be the site 
 of the next volcano, which is to rise, Fuji-like, from 
 the plain. It was fortunate that I did not know 
 that at tlie time of the tremor in Yokohama, or I 
 might have thought that the anticipation was about 
 to be realised. 
 
 For the Hakone Hills a passport was required, 
 which I obtained at the local Kencho (prefecture) 
 by applying through the British Consulate. Though 
 I never felt in better health, or looked it, than when 
 I presented myself at the office of the Kencho with 
 a paper from the consul, a native clerk, in handing 
 me the passport, informed me in broken English and 
 with a smile, that the document stated that I was 
 visiting the Hakone District for the benefit of my 
 health — a figment for which I was in no way respon- 
 sible. If I had not acquiesced in the ofiicial fiction, 
 the district I wished to visit would have been for- 
 bidden ground to me. At first I did not like the 
 idea of carrying about with me a palpable lie. Any- 
 one would have voted me a fool if I had made a 
 difficulty about it. I did as others do, and pocketed 
 the document, though its wording was quite belied 
 by my appearance. Having stocked my portmanteau 
 with a pot of Liebig's extract of meat, three tins of
 
 62 JOUBNETB AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 sardines, a small tin of biscuits, and some tea, coffee, 
 and sugar (not omitting a knife and fork and a 
 spoon), I set out again for the Tokaido Station, and, 
 amid the deafening clatter of fellow-passengers, took 
 my seat in a second-class compartment (fare, 62 sen) 
 for Kodzu, distant forty-nine miles. As I passed 
 again through Fujisawa, I found the platform 
 crowded with people, among whom were the school- 
 children drawn up in a line in charge of their 
 teachers. As soon as the train drew up, a hearty 
 cheer went up from the crowd, and out of one of 
 the carriages stepped a smart young army officer, 
 who, after exchanging greeting with some of his 
 friends, walked off the platform escorted by the 
 people, several of whom carried banners on long 
 bamboo poles. There was no one in my compart- 
 ment to offer me an explanation of the demonstration, 
 but it was scarcely needed. It was the first of many 
 similar demonstrations which I was destined to 
 witness at railway stations in the com'se of my 
 travels through the country, and the person honom-ed 
 in each case was a local hero returning from the war. 
 In every such public reception the village school- 
 children played a conspicuous part. They were 
 drawn up in lines, sometimes three or four deep, 
 and, as soon as they caught sight of the hero of the
 
 TEE JAP AS A FELLOW- TH A VELLEE G3 
 
 hour, tliree hearty cheers in true British style 
 greeted his arrival. Thus was the military spirit 
 fostered and encouraged in the breast of young 
 Japan. 
 
 It will probably take another generation at least 
 before sitting down becomes quite natural to the 
 majority of the Japanese. In railway carriages, 
 even in the second-class, a native will often take 
 off his shoes and squat on the seat, instead of sitting 
 on it in Western fashion. In the third-class, among 
 the peasantry, that is common enough. The railways, 
 perhaps, as they spread over the country, will have 
 more effect in making the Japanese a nation of 
 sitters, instead of a nation of squatters and kneelers, 
 than any other Western innovation ; but it will be 
 long before even railway travelling will quite recon- 
 cile the mass of the people to the habit of sitting. 
 But whether sitting, squatting, or kneeling, the Jap 
 is not to be surpassed as a companionable fellow- 
 passenger. His innate politeness and never-failing 
 courtesy prevent his taking more than his due share 
 of the seat, and he will subject himself to much 
 inconvenience and even discomfort in order to oblige 
 others in the matter of ventilation, and if he does 
 not ask you if you object to smoking, it is because 
 he ]ias never heard of anyone who does object. He
 
 64 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 belongs to a nation of smokers, and as his wife and 
 daughters join him in a smoke as he journeys in the 
 train, it does not occur to him that you, whether a 
 lady or a gentleman, even if you don't care to smoke 
 yourself, can derive no pleasure from the fragrance 
 of the weed. Here let me say, en parcnthese, that, 
 though tlie Japs are all smokers, they arc none of 
 them victims of the habit in the same sense as 
 Europeans. The refined and delicate passion of the 
 Japanese smoker is satisfied with two or three whiffs 
 at a time — liis diminutive pipe would not hold 
 enough tobacco for much more — but in the course 
 of an hour the pipe and the pouch will probably be 
 produced again. But continuous smoking for any 
 length of time is not the Japanese idea of indulgence 
 in the pleasures of the weed. 
 
 On arriving at Kodzu, I left my portmanteau at a 
 tea-house near the station in charge of two little 
 mousmes, whose looks inspired me with confidence, 
 and, after a stroll on the beach, took tram for 
 Yumoto (about ten miles, fare 70 sen), with only 
 
 light hand-bag. It was the longest tram ride 
 that I had ever undertaken, and, though it was l)y 
 no means monotonous, it seemed quite interminable. 
 The road — which is the old Tokaido, connecting the 
 modern witli the ancient capital — led through several
 
 ODAWABA 65 
 
 villages, of which the largest — Odawara — is cele- 
 brated in Japanese history as the scene of many 
 bloody conflicts in feudal times. There is an old 
 saying in Japan, Odaivara hyogi, or " Odawara Con- 
 ference," applied to endless talk ending in nothing. 
 The origin of it is referred back to the sixteenth 
 century — to an occasion when, during a siege of its 
 castle, the defenders were prolonging the discussion 
 of their plans, and deliberating whether they should 
 act on the defensive or offensive, and when, during 
 the talk, the great Hideyoshi made an unexpected 
 attack, and took^the castle by storm. The castle is 
 now in ruins, having been finally destroyed at the 
 time of the Ee volution of 1868. Opposite its walls 
 the tramcar changed horses, and the rest of the 
 journey was accomplished at a brisk pace. Fuji, 
 the Queen of Mountains, was kept in view most of 
 the way. Arrived at Yumoto, I was met by a 
 swarm of coolies who bore down upon me with 
 their rickishas, but, instead of pushing on the same 
 day to Miyanosliita (as is generally done), I broke 
 the journey at a little place about half-a-mile 
 beyond Yumoto, called Tonosawa, and spent the 
 night at an inn — Tamano-yu — which, although the 
 European conveniences in it were few, was never- 
 theless delightful. Tonosawa lies near the mouth 
 
 F
 
 66 JOURNETS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 of a gorge, and is so shut in by hills that the sun 
 does not shine upon it for more than two or three 
 hours a day. In all my subsequent rambles through 
 the country, I never came upon so pleasant a yadoya 
 as the Tamano-yu. Speaking of it later on in the 
 house of a missionary, two hundred miles away, I 
 found my host equally enthusiastic about it, and 
 there was another reason for regarding it with 
 special attachment in his case, as it was there that 
 he spent his honeymoon. I was welcomed with 
 the usual chorus of " Ohayos," and had no sooner 
 sat down near the entrance than one domestic 
 relieved me of my bag and umbrella, two others 
 attacked my boots, like so many terriers, and, as 
 usual, had to give up the attempt to unlace them 
 in despair, and a fourth conducted me in my slippers 
 to my room, along the side of a picturesque court- 
 yard, over two or three rustic bridges spanning 
 beautiful lakelets stocked with gold and silver 
 fishes, through conidors glistening with polished 
 pine and cherryw^ood, and, finally, up a spic-and- 
 span stairway of cedar into a spacious chamber, 
 innocent of furniture save two chairs, but charming 
 in its simplicity. In a few minutes the hibachi 
 (fire-box) was l)rought in and set in the midst, with 
 two instruments like knitting-needles with which to
 
 TONOSAWA 67 
 
 stir and trim the burning fuel, and the waiting-maid, 
 Ewa, had some excellent tea, with rice and fish, set 
 before me, and, in accordance with the custom of 
 the country, faced me kneeling and demurely 
 watched ime during the whole time I was at my 
 meal. It is wonderful how soon one gets used in 
 Japan to another looking on during one's meal, and 
 counting, as it were, one's every mouthful. At first 
 the guest is almost inclined to resent such attention, 
 and to wish that the mute on-looker were in Jericho 
 rather than in Japan ; but the feeling of uneasiness 
 soon wears away, and he becomes almost uncon- 
 scious of a pair of curious, oblique, almond-shaped 
 eyes looking on so intently. Of course the well- 
 meaning maid knows nothing of the manners of 
 the Ear West, and, so far from meaning to be rude 
 by staring at the stranger, does him, according 
 to her lights, the greatest honour by assuming a 
 position where she can at once, at the slightest 
 sign, ascertain his orders. And if, by so doing, she 
 can at the same time gratify a natural curiosity by 
 watching his strange physiognomy, and his dexterity 
 in wielding those dangerous-looking instruments — 
 knife and fork — which probably she has never held 
 in her dainty little hands, can you blame her ? 
 Sometimes Ewa would be joined by her sister Keo 
 
 F 2
 
 68 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 (also in service at the yadoya) in looking on at the 
 wild beast feeding, and the remarks which each made 
 to the other would probably have interested me ex- 
 ceedingly if I had understood them, as my person and 
 manners were almost certainly the subject of them. 
 Though Ewa and Keo were humble domestics at an 
 inn, I must not omit to give them their proper titles, 
 which would be Ewa San (" The Hon. Miss Ewa ") 
 and Keo San (" The Hon. Miss Keo ")• 
 
 After a stroll through the village, I turned in for 
 the night, but though the bed was as comfortable as 
 any I had in Japan — the usual futon on the floor — 
 precious little sleep did I get, owing to the noise of 
 a stream close by, and the swarm of moths, cater- 
 pillars, etc., that shared the bedroom with me. The 
 latter evil I succeeded to some extent in mitigating. 
 Their presence was accounted for by the mado 
 (rain-shutters) having been closed before the light 
 (electric, by the way) was turned off. The con- 
 sequence was that a number of those pests, which 
 had been attracted by the light while the room was 
 open on two sides, were shut in, and, of course, did 
 their level best to annoy the sleeper. Impatiently 
 jumping out of bed, I pushed back after some 
 difiiculty the inner and outer shutters, at the risk 
 of rousing up all in the inn, and even in the village
 
 A CHARMING INN 69 
 
 (for in opening or closing the mado, you make a 
 noise wliich can be heard a hundred yards off), so that 
 my room was in the dead of night open to two of the 
 four winds of heaven, and so it was allowed to remain 
 a sufficient time to enable the intruders to make 
 themselves scarce again. After closing the shutter 
 again, and turning on the electric light, I found that 
 the clearance had been fairly complete, and the one 
 or two that still remained gave me little trouble. 
 The mosquito is almost unknown at Tonosawa, but 
 in its stead there is another little pest during July 
 and August, a ily called luyo, the sting of which is 
 said to be very painful. But I was fortunate in 
 only knowing him by repute. 
 
 The Japs, like all Orientals, are early risers, and 
 just as I felt that refreshing sleep, for some hours 
 wooed in vain, was at length come on, I heard the 
 shutters being thrown back, and the cheery "Ohayo!" 
 of Ewa San or her sister (I could not make out 
 which) saluting me. There was nothing to be done 
 but to be content with such sleep as I had had, and 
 to jump into my clothes and begin the day's work. 
 After a little more experience of native inns I found 
 that the host and hostess were always most ready to 
 oblige by giving orders to the servants overnight 
 not to throw open the shutters till they had heard
 
 70 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 that the honourable guest was awake, and not to 
 disturb his slumbers by unnecessary noise in opening 
 other shutters of the house. But at five o'clock, in 
 any town or village in Japan, there is such a general 
 noise caused by the opening of shutters that the 
 most profound sleeper cannot but be disturbed. 
 
 While my breakfast was being got ready, I sat on 
 the balcony, admiriug the beauty of the prospect at 
 early dawn, and the strange quaintness of the scene 
 at my feet. All the village was astir, and cooKes 
 were already trundling their richishas to and from 
 Miyanoshita. As I was squatting at my breakfast, 
 O Ewa San took it into her little head to seat herself 
 for a moment in the chair which I had just vacated 
 — to her own intense amusement and that of her 
 sister and some friends on the road below. It was 
 evidently an attitude in which Ewa San had not 
 often posed. 
 
 One thing about the Tamano-yu I did not after- 
 wards see surpassed anywhere, and that was its 
 splendid bathroom, which contained a private tank 
 for foreign guests. Never before had a hot water 
 bath seemed to me such a real luxury as it did 
 in that exquisitely fitted-up basement chamber. 
 Everything about it was so inviting that there 
 was a temptation to spend a longer time in the
 
 BATHS AND BATHING 71 
 
 water than might perhaps be good for a foreigner's 
 constitution. As for the natives, they can spend 
 entire days in water of a temperature beyond the 
 endurance of any European skin, and seem none the 
 worse for it. Indeed, the Japs take their baths at 
 nearly the temperature which boils an egg. And 
 such parboiling they call refreshment ! At some of 
 the hot mineral springs there are bathers who, 
 incredible as it may seem, spend a whole week in 
 the water, taking their meals in it on little tables, 
 and, when sleeping, having a stone in their laps to 
 keep them from floating. The Jap's idea of a dolce 
 far nicntc life is as different from the Italian's as it 
 can be. The latter does not usually associate with 
 it personal cleanliness, which to the average Jap, 
 who wears his religion lightly, is perhaps even more 
 important than godliness. It was not till I arrived 
 in Japan that I learnt that the hotter the bath, the 
 less likely one is to catch a chill on going out into 
 the cold air. The European residents of Japan, 
 though they do not parboil themselves like the 
 natives, take a hot bath much more frequently than 
 we do. Owing to a peculiarity of the climate, they 
 find that hot baths suit them better than cold. 
 
 I set out early for Miyanoshita. The road was 
 somewhat steep, but otherwise excellent. Kurumas
 
 72 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 were constantly passing up and down, some bearing 
 ladies of high degree. Within a mile of the village 
 I took a rest at a tea-house, which was perched on a 
 spot commanding a charming view of the valley. 
 Eesuming my journey, I passed a house which had 
 an official air about it, and in front of which squatted 
 three natives, but the exact character of it did not 
 strike me at the time, and I passed it at a rapid 
 pace. Soon I heard one of the men running after me 
 rather excitedly and shouting something which I did 
 not quite imderstand. Still I went on, and still the 
 man kept shouting to me in Japanese, till at last I 
 heard the word "toll," when I understood at once what 
 the commotion was about. I was, all unconsciously, 
 evading a public toll. When the man caught me up, 
 and said in answer to my " ikura ? " (" how much ? ") 
 in very good English, " cent and a half," I asked him, 
 " "VVhy didn't you bring out your English before ? " 
 He became at once speechless — his English could 
 no further go. He had exhausted his stock — 
 which was all that was necessary for his calling. 
 Murray, that I had found so reliable, said nothing 
 about the toll ; hence what must have struck the 
 officials as a deliberate attempt to evade it. The 
 tax had to be paid again on the return journey in 
 the evening,
 
 MIYANOBEITA 73 
 
 A few minutes' further walk brought me to 
 Miyanoshita — 1400 feet above the sea — quite a little 
 mountain village, but one of the best-known health 
 resorts in Japan. The region is wild and picturesque, 
 and on a commanding site facing the valley is the 
 famous hotel Fuji-ya, which is kept in European 
 style, and is much patronised by the foreign residents 
 of Tokyo and Yokohama. Another hotel, situated 
 quite near it, is the Nara-ya, but Fuji-ya receives 
 the larger patronage by reason of its superior accom- 
 modation, cuisine, and ser\dce. 
 
 The little mountain village is full of shops, in 
 which are offered for sale the beautiful mosaic wood- 
 work, and bamboo articles of various kinds, for 
 which the region is famous. Many are the pretty 
 walks and mountain climbs, short and long, for 
 which Miyanoshita is the starting-point. A favourite 
 excursion is that to Hakone, but as it required an 
 entire day, and my time was limited, I was only 
 able to go as far as Ashinoyu — a three miles steep 
 mountain climb. The journey is generally done by 
 kago — a species of small palanquin swung from a 
 pole, and carried on the bare shoulders of two 
 muscular coolies, "who trudge with a steady and 
 firm step as though they were carrying a jackdaw in 
 a cage instead of a burly Englishman," as a witty
 
 74 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 writer has said. The natives use much shallower 
 kagos, as a rule, than foreigners, as they can double 
 up and sit on their feet with much more dignity 
 and comfort than ourselves. They axe born of 
 ancestors who have been sitting on their heels for 
 more than two thousand years, and, besides being of 
 smaller size, have not the stiff joints of the foreigner. 
 Sometimes an arm-chair is swung on poles, in which 
 a burly Englishman can ride with a fair degree of 
 comfort, " like an idol in a procession." 
 
 To a good pedestrian the journey to Ashinoyu, 
 though stiff, is not very trying. The view, as one 
 ascends, is very striking. One eminence, Benten- 
 yama, not far from the village, commands a mag- 
 nificent panorama of the peninsula of Enoshima and 
 Tokyo Bay in the far distance. But the village itself 
 has no view, as it lies in a depression, though on the 
 summit of a mountain (2870 feet above the sea). 
 Its immediate surroundings are bleak and uninviting. 
 
 Ashinoyu is famous for its sulphur springs, 
 and is the resort of large numbers of Japanese, 
 and some foreigners, who suffer from skin diseases 
 and rheumatism. There is a semi-foreign inn 
 (Matsuzaka-ya), which, at the time of my visit, 
 contained a few English and German patients. One 
 German was there with a Japanese wife, who were
 
 JAPANESE LADIES 75 
 
 among my fellow-passengers the day before in the 
 tram-car from Kodzu to Yumoto. I sat down to 
 luncheon with them, and was much struck with 
 their apparent affection for one another. She did 
 not know a word of German, but he seemed to 
 speak Japanese like a native. Doubtless her own 
 language was a better vehicle for tender sentiments 
 than her husband's. A French writer says of 
 Japanese women : " Voici encore une difference, et 
 celle-ci toute a I'honneur des jolies Japonaises ! Les 
 femmes, dans tous les pays europeens, temoignent 
 une predilection speciale pour une langue qui n'est 
 pas celle de leur pays. Les rran9aises parlent 
 anglais, les Anglaises et les Eusses parlent franpais, 
 etc. Une Japonaise ne parle que le Japonais." 
 That, however, is not borne out by Miss Bacon, who 
 has written so charmingly of Japanese girls and 
 women. Educated Japanese ladies may not show 
 a predilection for a foreign language, but under the 
 present system they are not the monoglots they were 
 years ago, before Commodore Perry broke in upon the 
 repose of old Japan. " At all higher schools," says 
 Miss Bacon, " one foreign language is required, and 
 often two, English ranking first in the popular 
 estimation. Many a headache do the poor, liard- 
 working students have over the puzzling English
 
 76 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 language, in which they have to begin at the wrong 
 end of the book, and read across the page from left 
 to right, instead of from top to bottom, and from 
 right to left, as is natural to them. 
 
 After a view of Hakone and the lake from the top 
 of the hill, I retraced my way to Tonosawa, which I 
 reached by five o'clock, loaded with wares which 
 form the specialty of the Hakone district. Being 
 the only European in Tonosawa, I was regarded with 
 a good deal of interest by the natives as I strolled 
 about the village, and I had formed more than a 
 nodding acquaintance with several of them when 
 the time came for me to return. Though there is 
 not much to see at Tonosawa itself, the picturesque 
 situation of the little village, the kindliness of its 
 people, the comforts of the accommodation at the 
 Tamano-yu, and its very moderate rates, made my 
 stay a very pleasant one. Early on Saturday I left, 
 amid the soft "Sayondras " and the invitations to 
 " please come again " of the whole household, and took 
 ricJcisha from Yumoto to Kodzu. Midway my coolie 
 transferred his charge to another — a transaction to 
 which I did not at all object, as he had seen his 
 best days, and should long ago have been placed 
 upon the retired list; but, though it was evident 
 when I engaged him that he was ill-fitted for his
 
 BETURN JOURNEY 11 
 
 work, I selected him out of several who offered 
 themselves as a mere matter of charity. My new 
 man had a far finer physique, and seemed as fresh 
 when he suddenly drew up at Kodzu, after his five 
 miles' run, as when he set out. The usual welcome 
 awaited me at the tea-house, where, I need hardly 
 say, I found my portmanteau safe and sound. After 
 tea I took another stroll along the beach, and had 
 gone some distance when my attention was attracted 
 by the shouting of one of the mousmes, who had been 
 sent after me to inform me that my train was due. 
 So much uncertainty prevailed along the Tokaido 
 Eailway as to the arrival and departure of trains, 
 owing to the movements of the troops, that I had 
 been told that a train might come at any moment, or 
 come might not come for hours. To be sure of getting 
 the first train, one had to wait at the station, possibly 
 for two or three hours, and that the natives very 
 generally did, but Europeans have not their patience. 
 While the little maid, with clattering feet, hurried 
 on in advance to purchase my kippu (ticket), I 
 rushed to see about my luggage, which, with the 
 help of wiUing hands, was in a few minutes conveyed 
 to the station, duly checked, and made ready for the 
 van as the train steamed in. Tokyo was reached by 
 two o'clock.
 
 78 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 TOKYO, 
 
 Ell route to the capital — Story of Tokyo — Area and pojwla- 
 tion — Yedo — Tsukiji — Hotels — The Ginza — The Naka-dori 
 — The Nihon-baslii and the Megaiie-bashi — Shiba — 
 Mortuary tem])les — Kwankoba — Uyeno — Cherry-blossoms 
 — ^Museum — Christian relics — Japanese embassy to Rome 
 — " Trampling boards " — Throne of tlie Mikado — Zoological 
 Gardens — Tombs and temples — Asakusa — Colossal temj^le 
 — Image of Kwannon — Pleasure and piety — Japanese 
 English — Imperial Palace. 
 
 The part of the line from Yokohama to the capital, 
 which I now traversed for the first time, was built 
 by English engineers in 1872, and was the first rail- 
 way opened to traffic in the country. The journey 
 occupies forty-five minutes, and is made by seventeen 
 trains daily. Kanagawa (once a thriving town on 
 the Tokaido), Tsurumi (surrounded by extensive 
 rice-fields), Kawasaki (noted for a temple dedicated 
 to Kobo Daislii), Omori (" The Great Forest," which 
 has almost disappeared), and Shinagawa (" Eiver of 
 Merchandise "), are passed in rapid succession, and
 
 tOkto 79 
 
 the traveller arrives at Shimbaslii (" The New 
 Bridge") terminus — a modern stone structure in 
 European style — and finds himself encircled by the 
 busy life of one of the world's great capitals. 
 
 Before I go on to describe my own movements in 
 this vast metropolis, and a few of the impressions 
 with which I left it, I propose to give a few facts of 
 interest concerning it. 
 
 Every one knows that it was formerly called Yedo, 
 and that it is so named on the maps of our childhood. 
 It was towards the end of 18G8 that its designation 
 was changed to Tokyo, meaning " Eastern Capital," 
 applied in contradistinction to Kyoto, which means 
 " Western Capital." It became the recognised seat 
 of Government in March 1869. It was about 1872 
 that European buildings began to be erected in 
 Tokyo. Though the city was thrown open to visitors 
 in 1869, it was some time later that Europeans were 
 first allowed to reside in it. There is still only one 
 quarter (Tsukiji) in which foreigners may lease 
 land. 
 
 The city is popularly estimated to extend in every 
 direction four ri, thus covering an area of a hundred 
 square miles. According to the official census, the 
 population of the whole metropolitan area is 1,628,000, 
 but that of th« city proper is not quite a million.
 
 80 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 Tramways were laid along the main streets in 1882, 
 electric light was introduced into the city three or 
 four years later, and in 1890 a telephone exchange 
 was established in it, and an electrical railway laid 
 in one of its great public parks. 
 
 Such, in brief, has been the history of Tokyo. 
 That of Yedo " for the most part consists of a suc- 
 cession of earthquakes, fires, typhoons, epidemics, 
 floods, and droughts " {Murray). In the year 1703 
 no less than 37,000 people are said to have lost their 
 lives by an earthquake. An epidemic in 1773 
 carried off 190,000 persons. The last great earth- 
 quake occurred in 1855, when the loss of life was 
 immense. 
 
 A great part of Tokyo has been recovered from the 
 sea during the last three centuries. This would 
 include Tsukiji, the foreign concession, where — at 
 the Metropole, situated on the Bund — I was 
 quartered during the first few days of my stay at the 
 capital. Other hotels in European style are the 
 Imperial, the Tokyo, and the Seiyo-ken. 
 
 For so vast a city, the " sights " of Tokyo strike 
 the visitor as being very few. Those, however, are 
 so far apart that it takes a considerable time to make 
 the round of them, even in the superficial manner of 
 the English tourist. Before I had time to form any
 
 THE GINZA 81 
 
 plan, I found myself on the evening of my arrival 
 being carried by the current down the Ginza — the 
 Broadway of Tokyo — wMch has one of its ends at 
 the Shimbashi station, and, under different names, 
 extends in the other direction through the city for 
 miles. Even if one is not bent upon much shopping, 
 many an interesting hour may be spent in simply 
 strolling down that great thoroughfare, and watching 
 the picturesque throng of natives streaming past in 
 holiday delight, probably the most happy people on 
 earth. Carried along by the current, you wander at 
 your leisure, little thinking of the ris and chos you 
 are placing between you and your starting-point, till, 
 if it be late at night, you have to hail a richisha in 
 order to be back at your quarters at a respectable 
 hour. That was my experience more than once 
 through yielding to the fascination of following the 
 stream down that interminable thoroughfare. The 
 Ginza is a veritable shopper's paradise, but it is as 
 well perhaps to select your articles by daylight, and 
 not under the glare of the lanterns and torches. 
 The paradise of the curio-hunter is a street which 
 runs parallel with a part of the Ginza — the Kaka- 
 dori — containing a large number of shops wliich 
 look insignificant, but which are stocked with costly 
 Japanese and Chinese curios. It is known as Curio 
 
 G
 
 82 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 Street among the foreign residents. An important 
 landmark of Tokyo on its main artery is the Nihon- 
 bashi (" bashi " = bridge), from which all distances 
 in Eastern Japan are calculated. Another famous 
 bridge, which terminates the thoroughfare, is the 
 Megane-bashi, or " Spectacles Bridge," so called from 
 its circular arches. 
 
 But the glories of Tokyo are its parks, Shiba and 
 Uyeno. There are still preserved the Mortuary 
 Temples — marvels of Japanese art — of several of the 
 Shoguns. That of the greatest of them all, the 
 founder of the Tokugawa, or last dynasty — leyasu — 
 is at Nikko, as also that of his grandson, lemitsu, 
 and will be referred to later. For a fee of twenty- 
 five SC71 you are conducted by the priest through the 
 temple and mausoleum of Hidetada, the second 
 Shogun. The tomb is very fine, being the largest 
 specimen of gold lacquer in the world. Each of the 
 Mortuary Temples consists of three parts — an outer 
 oratory, a corridor, and an inner sanctum — each rich 
 in gold gilt, colours, and finely-carved arabesques. 
 In feudal times, when the Shogun came to worship 
 the spirit of his ancestors, he alone penetrated into 
 the sanctum, the greater daiimjos occupying the 
 corridor, and the lesser the oratory. 
 
 Near the Great Gate of Shiba — famous for its
 
 U7EN0 PARK 83 
 
 colour and elaborate carvings — is the grand bazaar of 
 Tokyo — the Kwankoba — where there is exposed for 
 sale every article manufactured in Japan or required 
 in the Japanese home. , 
 
 To see Sliiba — which means " grass-lawn " — aright, 
 one should visit it in April, when the cherry- 
 blossoms add so much to the beauty of the park. 
 The other great park — Uyeno — is the Hyde Park and 
 South Kensington of Tokyo combined. In it have 
 been held three National Industrial Exhibitions, the 
 first in 1877, and the last in 1890. It is the most 
 popular resort in the city, and when, in April, the 
 cherry-blossoms are out, and all Tokyo and his wife, 
 in picturesque holiday attire, are there to admii'e 
 them, the scene is said to be one which simply defies 
 description. That it is a sight worth going all the 
 way to Japan to see is admitted by the least im- 
 pressionable of those who have witnessed it. Such 
 a blending of natural beauty and quaint Ear-Eastern 
 life seems more like the work of a great painter on 
 an immense canvas than a mundane reality. But I 
 was not fortunate enough to witness it, and only 
 speak of it as others have spoken of it to me ; but 
 Uyeno Park, even minus the cherry-blossoms, as I 
 saw it in June, with crowds of gaily-attired natives 
 thronging its avenues, is beautiful in the extreme. 
 
 G 2
 
 84 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 The museum in Uyeno is one of whicli the country 
 has reason to be proud. To gain even a fair idea of 
 the contents of its various departments — technical, 
 historical, or archffiological, and those of natural 
 history and fine art — would require several visits, 
 and a more lengthened stay in the capital than 
 tourists generally make. Of all the contents the 
 national antiquities will interest the European visitor 
 most. They include the stone arrow-heads, spear- 
 heads, and pottery of the pre-historic period, differing 
 but slightly from those of the West. Next come 
 various objects, such as bells, mirrors, armour, and 
 cooking utensils of the bronze period, and most 
 curious of all, earthenware images of men and horses 
 unearthed from the tumuli of great personages, where 
 it was the practice to deposit them after the custom 
 of burying their chief retainers alive with them had 
 been discontinued. The department of history con- 
 tains a large collection of coins, the earliest dating 
 from the year a.d. 708, and a number of ancient 
 manuscripts, which rank among the earliest speci- 
 mens of Japanese caligraphy. In the same room 
 are two cases, the contents of which are of pathetic 
 interest to every Christian visitor. They are some 
 Christian relics which have survived from the seven- 
 teenth century, when the Roman Catholic mission-
 
 CHRISTIAN RELICS 85 
 
 aries were ejected from the country, and Japan all 
 but isolated itself from the outer world. Many of 
 them were brought from Eome in 1620 by the 
 embassy of Hashikura Kokuemon, who had been 
 sent thither six years before by Date Masamune, 
 Prince of Sendai. The official Japanese account of 
 this embassy is at variance with the versions of it 
 accepted by European writers. According to the 
 former, the embassy went at the desire of the Shogun 
 of the day to report upon the political strength and 
 resources of Europe, while the latter describes it 
 what it really represented to be — a mission to recog- 
 nise the Pope's supremacy. The envoy was well 
 received at Eome, and some of the objects which he 
 brought back and are now exhibited at Uyeno 
 Museum remained in the possession of the Prince's 
 family until a few years ago. Among the relics is 
 an illuminated Latin document conferring on Hashi- 
 kura the freedom of the city of Eome, a painting of 
 him in Italian costume kneeling before a crucifix, 
 and photographs of the Prince's letters to the Pope 
 in Japanese and Latin. Of the same touching in- 
 terest to Christians are the " trampling boards " — 
 oblong blocks of metal or wood with figures in high 
 relief of the Vii^gin and Child, Christ before Pilate, 
 the Descent from the Cross, and other incidents of
 
 86 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 the Passion, on which people suspected of the crime 
 of Christianity were compelled to trample by way of 
 testifying their adjuration of the forbidden faith. 
 The Dutch (who alone were allowed to trade with 
 the country) are believed to have countenanced the 
 persecution for their own selfish ends. 
 
 In other rooms are preserved some of the furniture 
 and trappings of the courts of the Mikado and the 
 Shogun. The throne of the former is there, with its 
 silk hangings which shrouded his Majesty from the 
 gaze of ordinary mortals, who were only allowed to 
 see his feet. There are also the State bullock cart, 
 and a model of the State barge used by the Shoguns. 
 I have mentioned a few of the most interesting 
 of the countless exhibits at the Uyeno Museum. 
 My only regret is that, owing to Tokyo being a city 
 of such great distances, I was not able to visit the 
 museum again and again. But even a cursory 
 inspection, as mine necessarily was, is enough to 
 stimulate one's interest in the history of the country 
 and its unique civilisation. 
 
 In the same grounds are the Zoological Gardens 
 of Tokyo, which, however, are in a very embryotic 
 state. The animal which excites the greatest in- 
 terest among the native visitors is said to be an 
 ordinary English sheep, the bleating of which
 
 ASAKUSA 87 
 
 terrifies onlookers, and causes them to disperse as 
 much as would a lion's roar. 
 
 The tombs and mortuary temples of the Shoguns 
 in Uyeno Park differ but little from those at Shiba. 
 They are regarded as priceless legacies of the art of 
 Old Japan, one of them being a symphony in gold 
 and blended colours. 
 
 After a "tiffin" at the Seiyo-ken Hotel — from 
 which I looked down upon many acres of blooming 
 lotus — I went to see the great Buddhist temple 
 kno\vn as the Asakusa Kwannon, so called because 
 dedicated to Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy. The 
 image which is worshipped there, which is of pure 
 gold, and has a miraculous history, is never shown, 
 but is said to be only one and three-quarter inches 
 in height. The disproportion between the smallness 
 of the image and the vastness of the temple in 
 which it is enshrined has passed into a popular 
 saying. Instead of the image — which is too sacred 
 to be publicly exhibited — there is produced on a 
 certain day in the year, for the adoration of the 
 faithful, a larger and less sacred one. Of the 
 various other figures in the great temple, one is said 
 to be good at curing stomach complaints, another 
 at bringing fish into the fisherman's net, another at 
 beautifying the complexion of the votary who strikes
 
 88 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 its face. The last has been so handled by the 
 female faithful that its countenance has become flat 
 and featureless. The worshipper first rings a bell, 
 ^\■hich awakens the attention of the deity, then 
 throws a coin into a receptacle, makes his or 
 her petition, and finally claps hands to let the 
 divinity know that the business with him is ended. 
 But Asakusa is not so remarkable for its diminutive 
 idol or colossal temple as for the kind of permanent 
 pleasure fair which goes on there, and which cannot 
 be Ijetter described than in Murray's words : — 
 
 " It is the great holiday resort of the middle and lower classes, 
 and nothing is more striking than the juxtaposition of piety and 
 jileasure, of gorgeous altars and grotesque ex-votos, of pretty 
 costumes and dingy dolls, the clatter of the clogs, cocks and 
 hens and pigeons strutting about among the worshippers, 
 children playing, soldiers smoking, believers chaffering with 
 dealers of charms, ancient art, modem advertisements — in fine, 
 a spectacle than which surely nothing more motley was ever 
 witnessed within a religious edifice." 
 
 Again we are told that " the grounds of Asakusa 
 are the quaintest and liveliest place in Tokyo. 
 Here are raree-shows, penny gaffs, performing mon- 
 keys, cheap photographers, street artists, jugglers, 
 wrestlers, theatrical and other figures (ningyo), in 
 painted wood and clay, vendors of toys and lolli- 
 pops of every sort, and, circulating amidst all these
 
 IMPEBIAL PALACE 89 
 
 cheap attractions, a seething crowd of busy holiday- 
 makers." 
 
 The following is a specimen of " EngKsh as she is 
 spoke " in Japan, copied from a public notice which 
 caught my eye in the grounds of Asakusa, 
 
 " NOTICE ! 
 
 " A wonderful show of the blood-stained garments, letters, 
 and many other things from our officers and soldiers on the 
 hattlelield. 
 
 "The exactly resembling portraits and pictures of our 
 military and navy excellent officers and soldiers. 
 
 " The dreadful views of battlefield with oil-painted pictm-es. 
 
 " Admission free." 
 
 An English notice forbidding trespassing or any 
 other illegal act is often headed, " Kind notice," or 
 "Very kind notice" — another proof of the innate 
 politeness and gentleness of the people. 
 
 The Imperial Palace at Tokyo is not open to the 
 public, but its approaches are accessible, and are very 
 imposing. It occupies the sight of the old castle 
 and grounds of the Shoguns, and has been inhabited 
 by the present Emperor since 1889, The park is 
 enclosed by a wide moat, which, with its lotus 
 flowers and water lilies, and myriads of wild fowl, 
 is one of the prettiest sights in the city. The en- 
 circling wall is of enormous Cyclopean masonry.
 
 90 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 Within are a second moat and wall, immediately 
 enclosing the private grounds and palace of the 
 Mikado. Miss Bacon, who was privileged to see, 
 not only the grand reception-room, throne-room, and 
 dining-room, but also the private apartments of the 
 Emperor and Empress, describes the palace (in her 
 interesting little volume on "Japanese Girls and 
 Women") as being in Japanese style, but with 
 various foreign additions. The larger rooms are 
 furnished after the luxurious manner -of European 
 palaces. The private apartments are in Japanese 
 style, and very simple. The floors are matted, not 
 carpeted, and the Emperor and Empress repose on 
 them a la ja^ponaisc, in preference to using chairs. 
 Their Imperial Majesties have adopted many Euro- 
 pean customs, but in their private life they still 
 prefer the national ways.
 
 91 ) 
 
 CHAPT.EE VIL 
 
 TOKYO (contimccd). 
 
 Bishop Edward Bickersteth's mission — St, Andrew's Church and 
 Clergy House — Confirmation service — Eijima San — Divinity 
 School — Lecture on the Holy Land — Mrs. Bishop) — National 
 versus foreign dress — Appeal hy American ladies — Plebi- 
 scite — " Girl of the period " — National versus Western archi- 
 tecture — Old Japan in the Open Ports — Japanese hizarrerie 
 — The Imperial University — Hospital — Professor Basil H. 
 Chamherlain. 
 
 I HAD not been long in the Hotel Metropole when 
 I was invited by the kind clergy of Bishop Edward 
 Bickersteth's Mission in Azabu to put up at their 
 house, of which the Ptev. Armine F. King is warden. 
 In fact, an invitation had been sent to me as soon 
 as my arrival at Yokohama became known at the 
 Clergy House, but the letter did not reach my 
 quarters there till after I had set out for the Hakone 
 HlQs, and did not find me till I arrived at the port 
 again on the eve of my leaving the country. At 
 St. Andrew's House (as the mission-house is called), 
 I spent a few very happy days, during which I had the
 
 92 JOURNEYS AMONa THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 opportunity of seeing a good deal of the work which 
 is being carried on in that quarter of Tokyo by the 
 English clergy under the direction of Bishop Bicker- 
 steth. A church — a neat wooden structure — occu- 
 pies the site of a more substantial and commodious 
 one which was destroyed by an earthquake three 
 years ago. I attended several of the services, both 
 in the church and in the house chapel, and amongst 
 them a confirmation service, at which a woman 
 afflicted with leprosy and another suffering from an 
 incurable disease, were candidates. That they were 
 both suffering from an incurable disease it would 
 be perhaps scarcely correct to say, as I have heard 
 since that the leprous woman, Eijima San, who came 
 direct to the confirmation from a private leper 
 hospital, was afterwards all but completely cured 
 by her treatment there, but, her general health 
 having given way, she died a few months later. 
 The bishop's apparent proficiency in the difficult 
 language of the people whom he addressed im- 
 pressed me very much. There was a good general 
 congregation, mostly women, and it was with some 
 difficulty that I made my way into the church 
 through the scores of clogs — ashidas, zoris, and Icoma- 
 getas — that blocked the entrance. The Litany and 
 the Preface to the Confirmation Service were read
 
 BISHOP BICKERSTETE'S MISSION 93 
 
 by native clergy. As the Prayer Book was in 
 Koman characters, and not in Hiragana, and certain 
 theological terms were only sKghtly modified from 
 their Latin or Greek forms, I was able to some 
 extent to follow the reading. 
 
 One of the most interesting hours that I spent at 
 St. Andrew's was one evening when I was called 
 upon to address the students of the Divinity School, 
 of which the Eev. A. E. Webb is warden, on a visit 
 to the Holy Land. At first using the simplest words 
 that came to me, and speaking with great delibera- 
 tion, I soon found that there was no need to be at 
 such extraordinary pains to make myself under- 
 stood, and that my auditory was not so deficient 
 in knowledge of English as I had supposed. 
 At the close, two of the scholars proposed and 
 seconded a vote of thanks to the lecturer in fault- 
 less English. 
 
 At Bishop Bickersteth's, I had the pleasure of 
 making the acquaintance of the well-known traveller 
 and explorer, Mrs. Bishop {nee Miss Bird), whose 
 remarkable experiences, and no less remarkable 
 power of narrating them, made her one of the most 
 interesting personalities that I had ever met. She 
 had only just arrived in Japan, where she is so 
 much at home, for a short rest after an adventurous
 
 94 JOUENEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 journey through Manchuria, and it was not many 
 months before she was back again on the Asiatic 
 continent, and travelling in the distant interior of 
 China, to which no European had before penetrated. 
 That a lady of so fragUe a constitution as Mrs. 
 Bishop's appears to be should have been able to 
 bear up under such terrible sufferings as she has 
 necessarily undergone puzzles those who come in 
 contact with her. I was glad to be of some slight 
 assistance to so remarkable a lady one afternoon, 
 during my stay in Azabu, in taking a few photo- 
 graphic views of some of the Shiba temples. 
 
 A great question debated among educated native 
 women at Tokyo just now is — shall we give up our 
 national dress and copy our European sisters? 
 Probably ninety-nine out of every hundred English 
 ladies who know anything of them and their country 
 would say to them, "Don't." It is pretty well 
 agreed among Europeans that the picturesque 
 kimono, with the wide bright silk ohi, suits the 
 little Japanese dame far better than the foreign 
 costume. The appeal which was made to their 
 Japanese sisters by some leading ladies of the 
 United States, including Mrs. Cleveland, not to 
 abandon their own national dress, found an echo 
 in the heart of English ladies generally interested
 
 NATIONAL VERSUS FOREIGN DRESS 95 
 
 in Japan. That appeal seems to have made a great 
 impression upon the Japanese women, and to have 
 complicated the difficulty which they felt in coming 
 to a decision. As a native writer said, they "felt 
 great pain in their bosom " how to act. For, from 
 their own point of view, there is a great deal to be 
 said in favour of making the change. They have 
 the example of the Empress, who gets her dresses 
 from Paris, and who requires all ladies appearing at 
 court functions to be in foreign dress. Their hus- 
 bands, in many cases, desire the change. It is 
 admitted also that foreign dress allows the limbs 
 greater freedom of movement. On the other hand, 
 their own attire is more beautiful, more durable, 
 much less expensive, and never goes out of fashion. 
 A native doctor of Tokyo has been making a 
 plebiscite on the question, through the medium of 
 a widely-circulated ladies' magazine, with the result 
 that the national dress is pronounced to be the best, 
 except for boys' clothing and that of business men. 
 What is required, says the doctor, is a certain reform 
 in the native dress, which, if carried out, would 
 make it the best dress in the world. Apropos 
 of dress, Mr. Henry Norman (who is my great 
 authority for the above) quotes from McClatchie's 
 translations of Japanese plays a clever and amusing
 
 96 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 description of a Japanese girl of the period. It is 
 as follows : — 
 
 " iler figure so trim 
 As the willow tree's bough is as graceful and slim; 
 Her complexion's as white as is Fuji's hoar peak 
 'Neath the snows of midwinter — like damask her cheek — 
 
 With a dear little nose, 
 
 And two eyes black as sloes, 
 And a pair of ripe lips which, when parted, disclose 
 Pearly teeth — her fine eyebrows obliquely are set, 
 And is coiled in thick masses on top of her pate, 
 In a wondeful ddrjnon as big as a plate: 
 (There are eiylit styles of chignon, just here I may tell 
 My fair readers, as known to the Japanese lelle). 
 Then, to heighten the beauty bestowed on the part 
 Of kind Nature, she's called in th' assistance of Art, 
 For rice-powder to render more dazzlingly fair 
 Her face, hands, neck, and chin — cherry oil for her hair, 
 Just a soup^on of rouge to embellish her lip — 
 And a host of cosmetics my mem'ry that slip: 
 To complete the fair picture of bright loveliness. 
 Add to all this the charm of her elegant dress : 
 
 Satin, crape, and brocade, 
 
 Here contribute their aid, 
 For tlie long flowing garments in which she's arrayed. 
 Which hang loose from her shoulders, in fanciful fold. 
 All embroidered with storks and plum-blossoms in gold ; 
 Next, a broad velvet girdle encircles her waist. 
 Tied liehind in a huge bow — her feet are encased 
 In small spotless white stockings, which timidly peep 
 From beneatli her red jupon's elaborate sweep ; 
 Add a hair-pin of tortoise-shell, dainty to see; 
 On her brow place a circlet of gilt filigree." 
 
 One of the erroneous ideas prevalent in England
 
 NATIONAL VERSUS FOREIGN DRESS 97 
 
 with regard to Japan, is that foreign costume is now 
 almost the rule in that country, especially in the 
 towns. Some English people visiting Japan expect 
 to see on all hands " loud " tweeds, chimney-pot hats, 
 and such Occidental innovations. On the contrary, 
 a European dress is still a very rare exception. In 
 Tokyo, it would be within the mark to say that not 
 one in a thousand wears such a dress. In the 
 country, it is, of course, still rarer. It is almost 
 confined to soldiers, students, police, railway and 
 other ofiicials, and the ladies and gentlemen connected 
 with the Imperial Court. And even many members 
 of the official class only wear it while on duty. At 
 their homes they don their liinono, probably with a 
 feeling of relief at being rid of a costume which 
 Nature never intended them to wear. In the higher 
 schools, the teachers have to wear a uniform, because 
 the training is partly military. But even that rule 
 is not as rigidly enforced as it once was. A highly 
 educated Japanese has been heard to say: "The 
 truth is we dislike Western dress. We have been 
 temporarily using it only as certain animals take 
 particular colours in particular seasons — forimrticular 
 reasons!' * 
 
 The general adoption of the Western garb would 
 * ' Out of the East,' by Lafcadio Hearri. 
 
 H
 
 98 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 necessitate quite a revolution in Japanese habits of 
 life. Our costume is quite unsuited to a Japanese 
 interior. The Japs still live, as they have done for 
 thousands of years, on the floor, and it is unlikely 
 that they will for a long time to come abandon as a 
 nation their ancestral habits. 
 
 Another misconception with which many visitors 
 arrive in Japan, and of which they are disabused as 
 soon "as they set foot in the country, is that the 
 Japanese have very generally adopted Western 
 architecture. There are, of course, foreign buildings 
 in almost all the large towns, but they are, as a rule, 
 confined to the foreign concessions. The exceptions 
 would be a post-office, a railway station, a custom- 
 house, or a factory. It is a mistake to suppose that 
 the Open Ports have become so far Europeanised that 
 little of Old Japan remains. You need not go into 
 the interior to see Japanese life in its purity. On 
 landing at Yokohama I was told that I should 
 have to wait till I went inland before I should see 
 native life unaffected by European influence. I saw 
 it represented at Yokohama, and later at KoIdc — not 
 to mention Tokyo — as faithfully as in any town 
 far removed from Western contact. Whatever is 
 essentially Japanese you get at the Treaty Ports and 
 at the capital.
 
 JAPANESE " BIZABBEBIE" 99 
 
 A French writer has recently been at some pains 
 to bring together in a newspaper article a large 
 number of instances of the hizarrerie which strikes 
 the European observer of the Japanese and their 
 ways, and as regards their modes of dressing he 
 mentions the following. A European lady in evening 
 dress makes a willing display of her neck and her 
 arms, while her Japanese sister is careful to conceal 
 the upper part of her body, but exposes with pride 
 her well-formed little feet. When dressed for an 
 evening party she is distinguished for her naked feet. 
 A Japanese lady is richly dressed up to the age of 
 sixteen or seventeen, while a French lady does not 
 begin to dress till after that age. The latter tight- 
 laces the upper part of her body, the former the 
 lower. A Japanese Venus would be distinguished by 
 the abundance of her clothes, and would look very 
 grotesque to an Aryan, wliile the Western Venus 
 would be regarded in Japan as a type of a very 
 vulgar woman. We wear black as a sign of 
 mourning, the Japanese wear white. In Europe, 
 women of different social grades are distinguished by 
 their toilets ; in Japan, all women, from the wife of 
 the Mikado to the simple peasant, wear the same 
 toilet. The difference is only in the quality of 
 the material. The European lady dreams of a 
 
 n 2
 
 100 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 lover's embraces; the Japanese lady would angrily 
 slap on the cheek the lover (not to mention the 
 husband) who would do anything to derange her 
 sacred chignon. The European lady paints her lips 
 and powders her face, but tries to make it pass for 
 nature ; the little Japanese dame does the same 
 thing, but shows herself proud of her artistic em- 
 bellishment, and does not try to conceal the fact that 
 her beauty is the product of art. Why should she ? 
 Is it not her art ? Such are a few of the numerous 
 instances which the French journalist cites of tlie 
 contrariness which differentiates Japanese ways from 
 European. 
 
 One of the last places that I visited in Tokyo was 
 the Imperial University (Teikolcu Daigahho). It 
 stands in the extensi^^e grounds of a former great 
 daimyo. It is on the German plan, and consists of 
 five " Colleges," namely, those of Law (including 
 Politics), Medicine, Engineering, Literature, Science, 
 and Agriculture. There are about 120 professors 
 and tutors, of whom a few are foreigners. Many 
 of the natives on the staff are graduates of some 
 European or American university. Next to Japanese, 
 German is the language most generally spoken at 
 the University. In 1894 there were over 1300 
 students on the books. The course is four years for
 
 TEE IMPERIAL UNIVERSITY 101 
 
 medicine, and three years for other subjects. All 
 students must be graduates of one of the five higher 
 middle schools of the country, or pass an equivalent 
 examination at entrance. They reside either in the 
 building or in licensed boarding-houses. They wear 
 a special uniform, which is a cross between an 
 English academical costume and a military dress. 
 The discipline is semi-military, and is probably 
 stricter than that of any university in Europe or 
 America. Every student must provide two sureties 
 to be responsible for his good behaviour while he is 
 in statu pupillari. He has to be indoors early ; he 
 must neither drink intoxicating liquors nor smoke in 
 his room. Whether it is the cause or the effect of 
 the close surveillance to which he is subjected, he is 
 said to be rather rude in his manner, especially 
 towards foreigners, differing very much in that re- 
 spect from other classes of the community. When, 
 a few years ago, it was found necessary to impose 
 such rigid discipline, a mutiny broke out among the 
 students, over a hundred of whom were expelled. 
 The University expenses, as given in the calendar, 
 range from a maximum of 12 yen to a minimum of 
 7^ yen a month (about £1 10s. to about £1). That 
 includes tuition, board and lodging, fire and light. 
 Connected with the University, and standing in the
 
 102 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS . 
 
 same grounds, is a large hospital, and among other 
 institutions, in other parts of the city, under the 
 authority of the President of the University, are 
 Botanical Gardens and an Observatory. 
 
 Englishmen may reflect with pride on the fact 
 that the most distinguished member of the staff of 
 the University is a countryman, Mr. Basil Hall 
 Chamberlain, who is professor of Japanese and 
 philology, and is reputed to know more of Japanese 
 literature than any native scholar. He is one of 
 the authors of that indispensable work, ' Murray's 
 Handbook.'
 
 ( 103 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE VIIL 
 
 TOKYO {continued), 
 
 Sengakuji — The Forty-seven Eonins — A Japanese vendetta — 
 Hara-Mri — Grim relics — Teaching of Confucius — Meguro 
 — The loves of Gompachi and Ko-Murasaki — Shintoist 
 suppliants — Strange religious exercises — The water-cure 
 for sin — " The Hundred Times " — A hallowed spot — A 
 Japanese romance. 
 
 One of the most famous spots in Tokyo is the 
 cemetery of Sengakuji, the burial place of the Forty- 
 seven Eonins, so celebrated in Japanese history. 
 Though they lived less than two hundred years ago, 
 their story reads like a romance of mythical times, 
 and is a favourite subject of the Japanese drama. 
 Their tombs are ranged round the sides of a small 
 courtyard, shaded by trees, and among them is that 
 of their liege lord, whose death they piously avenged. 
 There is also shown a well, fenced in, over which is 
 this inscription : " This is the well in which the head 
 was washed ; you must not w^ash your hands, or 
 your feet here." In a building on the spot, called
 
 104 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 Kanranjo, are shown, on payment of a small fee, the 
 weapons and the armour, with other relics, of the 
 Ronins. There are also to be seen statuettes of 
 them carved in wood, with coloured faces and lac- 
 quered dresses. Each tomb, especially that of Oishi 
 Kuranosuke, the leader of the band, has its tribute 
 of water and incense laid on it by admiring pilgrims. 
 Visiting cards also abound. When I made my own 
 pilgiimage to the spot, I went on foot, and made my 
 way as best 1 could through interminable streets with 
 the help of a not very elaborate map. The conse- 
 quence was that I had to make many inquiries, and to 
 follow very freely the advice to " ask a p'liceman ; " 
 but though the name of the temple did not always 
 give a clue to the place I was seeking, I found 
 that Shi-ju-shichi (Forty-seven Eonins) was quickly 
 understood. And now for the story of the famous 
 deed, which is related fully in Mitford's 'Tales of 
 Japan,' and which is briefly as follows. 
 
 At the beginning of the last century a powerful 
 daimyo, named Asano Takumi, having made an 
 attempt upon the life of a high court official, named 
 Kotsuke no Suke, by whom he had been insulted, 
 was, in accordance with the law at the time, con- 
 demned to perform hara-Jciri {Anglice, commit 
 suicide by disembowelling), his estate was confis-
 
 THE FORTY-SEVEN BONINS 105 
 
 cated, and his family ruined. His numerous re- 
 tainers (samurai) were thus disbanded, and became 
 Eonins — that is, "wave-men," tossed about, like a 
 wave of the sea, leading a wandering and unsettled 
 life, without ostensible means of existence. Forty- 
 seven of them, with one Oishi Kuranosuke at their 
 head, determined to avenge their liege lord's fate by 
 compassing the death of Kotsuke no Suke. They 
 cautiously laid their mui'derous plans, but Kotsuke 
 no Suke was so jealously guarded against the danger 
 which was suspected that there seemed no immediate 
 prospect to the conspirators of success to their 
 scheme. In order to throw their enemy off liis 
 guard, they dispersed and betook themselves to 
 different employments. Their ringleader began to 
 lead a dissolute life at Kyoto, and ultimately became 
 so degraded that Kotsuke no Suke, who kept a watch 
 upon his movements, ceased to fear any danger from 
 the old retainers of Takumi no Kami. Meanwhile 
 Oishi Kuranosuke's associates were working in 
 disguise at Yedo as common artisans, and, having 
 succeeded in gaining access into Kotsuke no Suke's 
 house, took notes of all they saw and heard, even 
 satisfying themselves as to who of the servants of 
 the house were brave men, and who were cowai'ds, 
 and communicated all they knew to Oishi Kurano-
 
 106 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 suke, who, convinced that Kotsuke no Suke was at 
 length entirely off his guard, secretly left Kyoto and 
 joined his comrades at Yedo. 
 
 It was mid-winter. One night, during a fearful 
 storm of wind and snow, after a farewell feast to- 
 gether, as on the morrow they were to die, the con- 
 spirators attacked the house of Kotsuke no Suke in 
 two bands, killed all his fighting-men, but took 
 Kotsuke no Sulce alive, and, in consideration of his 
 high rank, offered him the choice of performing hara- 
 kiri. This he refused to do. At last Oishi Kurano- 
 suke, seeing that it was vain to urge his enemy to 
 die the death of a nobleman, cut off his head, and 
 carried it away. At dawn the band betook them- 
 selves to the temple of Sengakuji, being cheered on 
 the way by the people in the streets, and hailed 
 everywhere as heroes, and, on arriving at the temple- 
 yard, washed the head of their victim in a well, and 
 presented it as an offering before their lord's tomb. 
 Then, while the priests of the temple read prayers, 
 they burnt incense, and, having given all his money 
 to the abbot, Oishi Kuranosuke addressed him 
 thus : — 
 
 " When we forty-seven men shall have performed 
 Jiara-Jciri, I beg you to bury us decently. I rely 
 upon your kindness. This is but a trifle that I have
 
 GBIM EELICS 107 
 
 to offer ; such as it is, let it be spent in masses for 
 our souls ! " 
 
 The abbot, with tears in his eyes, pledged himself 
 to carry out their wishes. On the morrow they were 
 brought before the High Court of Yedo, and, being 
 condemned to hara-kiri, each met his death with 
 heroic courage, and their corpses were buried as they 
 had desired. 
 
 Another tomb at Sehgakuji is that of a man who, 
 in remorse for having insulted Oishi Kuranosuke 
 when the latter lay drunk in the road at Kyoto, 
 came to Sengakuji, and committed suicide at his 
 grave, 
 
 Such is the story of one of the most remarkable 
 incidents in Japanese history. The tombs and the 
 relics of the Eonins are still highly venerated by the 
 Japanese, pilgrimages are made to the spot from 
 great distances, and every sixty years there is held 
 on the spot a commemorative festival, which lasts 
 nearly two months, and to which people flock from 
 every quarter. 
 
 Among the relics preserved, in addition to those 
 already named, is a receipt given by the samurai of 
 Kotsuke no Suke's son for the head of their lord's 
 father, which the priests restored to the family
 
 108 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 The gruesome document has been translated as 
 
 follows : — 
 
 " Memoeandum. 
 
 Item : One head. 
 Item : One i)aper parcel. 
 The above articles are acknowledged to have been received, 
 
 „. ,(■ Sayada Magobei. 
 ° I Saito Kunai. 
 
 To the priests deputed from the Temple Sengakuji : 
 
 His Reverence Sekishi. 
 His Keverekce Ichidon." 
 
 Upon the person of each of the Eonins was a 
 document explaining the motive which actuated them 
 in committing the deed, and a yellow and soiled 
 copy of it is among the exhibits. Another most in- 
 teresting relic is a plan of Kotsuke no Suke's house, 
 which one of the Eonins secured by marrying the 
 daughter of the designer. In all the annals of 
 modern Niliilism or Anarchism it would be difficult 
 to find a plot so deeply laid as was that of the Forty- 
 seven Eonins of Japan. 
 
 The teaching of Confucius — " Thou shalt not live 
 under the same heaven, nor tread the same earth 
 with the enemy of thy father or lord" — was a 
 sufficient justification of their bloodthirsty revenge. 
 The abolition of the feudal system and the intro-
 
 MEGUBO 109 
 
 diiction of a new criminal code have done much to 
 put an end to suicide for the sake of honour. 
 
 A favourite picnic resort — about three miles, or a 
 little over a ri, out of Tokyo — is a little village called 
 Meguro, which is reached either by road or by the 
 suburban railway. It is prettily situated amidst 
 groves of feathery bamboo and an exuberance of 
 wild flowers, but its chief attraction in the eyes of 
 sight-seers is the burial-place of two lovers, Shirai 
 Gompachi and Ko-Murasaki, the story of whose 
 romantic fates is known to every reading resident of 
 Nippon. The grave, situated near a temple, is called 
 after the name (Jiiyohu) of a fabulous double bird 
 (or two birds which flew with their near wings 
 joined together) which is the emblem among the 
 Japanese of fidelity in love. At the entrance into 
 the village you come upon a Shinto shrine in the 
 midst of lofty cryptomerias, which is a favourite 
 resort of jealous women who have lost the affection 
 of their lovers. At an early hour in the morning 
 the suppliant betakes herself to the shrine, clad in a 
 white kimono, and carrying in her left hand a little 
 straw effigy of her faithless lover, and prays the 
 tutelary deity to win back for her the heart of 
 her deceiver, or else to strike him with sickness. 
 Whether the petition is often granted is more than
 
 110 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 doubtful, but it is a superstition that has long 
 lingered in the district, and, like all superstitions, 
 will probably die hard. Arriving at the temple, we 
 come, at the bottom of a stone stairway, upon a 
 pool of clear water, fed by a small stream flowing 
 through the mouth of a brass dragon. The spring 
 was miraculously called into being by Jikaku Daishi, 
 the founder of the temple, and a famous Buddhist 
 abbot of the ninth century. A religious exercise — 
 not unknown in other parts of Japan — is to stand 
 naked, save the loin-cloth, under the stream for 
 several hours, the effect of it being to wash away 
 all sinful taint. That penitential lustration is called 
 Sui-Giyo, or "water-cure" for sin, and it is to be 
 suspected that many a light-hearted Jap exposes 
 his naked body to the cooling stream in the warm 
 weather from quite another motive than penitence. 
 Many, on the other hand, are genuine devotees, and 
 the self-sacrifice of standing beneath the stream on 
 a bitterly cold day in mid-winter, as is often done, 
 argues no little faith. Another religious exercise 
 which is performed in the same precincts is the 
 Hiyakvdo, or "the hundred times," which consists 
 in passing backwards and forwards between two 
 points, repeating a prayer each time. 
 
 We are conducted to the lovers' graves, by the
 
 A JAPANESE ROMANCE 111 
 
 merry, chattering waiting-maids of a tea-house hard 
 by. Under a primitive pent-house in an old disused 
 gi'aveyard we come upon two moss-covered stones, 
 marking the spot where lie mingled together the 
 ashes of the two lovers. On one of the stones is 
 this inscription : " In the old days his beauty was like 
 that of the cherry flower, and she looked upon it 
 with a love like that of the sunshine. These two 
 birds have died in their too-short flight ; the cherry 
 blossoms have perished without fruit." Pilgrimages 
 are still made from far and near to the hallowed 
 spot, and sticks of incense burnt in memory of the 
 steadfast love of the fair Ko-Murasaki. 
 
 The story of that love is a long one, but its outline 
 is this. 
 
 Some two hundred and fifty years ago a handsome 
 young retainer (samurai), named Shirai Gompachi, 
 as famous for his valour and his skill in the use 
 of arms as for his good looks, slew in a quarrel 
 a fellow-clansman, and, becoming a Ronin, fled to 
 Yedo. On his way thither he put up one night at 
 an inn, where he found himself unwittingly^ among 
 a gang of robbers. His richly-ornamented sword 
 and dirk at once attracted their attention and excited 
 their covetousness, and they at once planned his 
 murder. Among the waiting-maids of the house was
 
 112 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 a beautiful damsel, fifteen years of age (which in 
 
 Japan is maturity), Ko-Murasaki ("Little Wild 
 
 Indigo") by name, who had beheld with a tender 
 
 interest the handsome young guest. Knowing the 
 
 intentions of the robbers, she went stealthily, in the 
 
 dead of night, into Gompachi's room, where he was 
 
 sleeping soundly after the fatigue of his flight, and, 
 
 rousing him gently, told him in a whisper that the 
 
 house was a den of robbers, that that night they 
 
 would murder him for his sword and his clothes, and 
 
 that she herself had been stolen by them from her 
 
 father's house. She implored him to save himself 
 
 and her. At first Gompachi was speechless, but, 
 
 recovering his presence of mind, he thanked the 
 
 "Little Wild Indigo" heartily, and told her that 
 
 he would kill the robbers and rescue her that night. 
 
 But first she was to go out of harm's way, and hide 
 
 herself in a certain bamboo grove till he should join 
 
 her. Accordingly she left the house that instant, 
 
 and wlien a short time later, the thieves noiselessly 
 
 opened the shoji, and entered the room, young 
 
 Gompachi, with drawn sword, rushed upon them, 
 
 and when he had cut down two, and mutilated 
 
 other two, the rest escaped for their lives. Having 
 
 thus rid himself of his would-be murderers, Gompachi 
 
 repaired to the bamboo grove, where he found Ko-
 
 A JAPANESE BOMAKOE 113 
 
 Murasaki waiting in terror for him. Taking her 
 by the hand, he escorted her to her home at Mikawa, 
 and restored her to her grief-stricken parents. They 
 were beside themselves for joy, and, in their 
 gratitude, wished to adopt the young man as their 
 son, and pressed him to live with them. To this 
 Gompachi would not consent. His ambition was 
 to attach himself to some big daimyo at Yedo. He 
 promised, however, to weeping " Little Wild Indigo " 
 that he would some day return to her, and, accepting 
 a parting gift from her father of two hundred ounces 
 of silver, he resumed his journey. 
 
 Before reaching Yedo Gompachi had, among 
 various other adventures, another encounter with 
 robbers, from whom he was rescued by one Chobei, 
 a wardsman, as much as by his own long sword. 
 He became a guest at his deliverer's house at Yedo, 
 where he lived for some months. He fell into 
 dissolute ways, became a frequenter of the Yoshi- 
 wara, a quarter of Yedo then as now of evil repute. 
 Soon he heard of the charms of a recent acquisition 
 to the Yoshiwara, who already had the young bloods 
 of the town at her feet, and he sought her out at the 
 house where she stayed. When their eyes met they 
 started back in astonishment, for she whose fame 
 had spread abroad over the town was none other 
 
 I
 
 114 J0UENEY8 AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 than Ko-Murasaki, the "Little Wild Indigo" of 
 Mikawa. In great distress she explained to him 
 why she had been brought to that degraded position, 
 how her parents, once so prosperous, had met with 
 reverses, and had been reduced to great poverty, and 
 how, to reHeve them, she had followed the example 
 of other Japanese maidens by selling herself to the 
 master of the house where she then was, and how at 
 last her parents had died of misery and grief. Then, 
 with bitter tears, she appealed to him to save her 
 again as he had done before. Her story so affected 
 him that he vowed that he would not again forsake 
 her. He was then too poor to purchase her liberty, 
 but he visited her daily. At last all his money gave 
 out ; being a Bunin he knew not where to turn for 
 more. In his despair, unknown to Ko-Murasaki, he 
 betook himself to murder and robbery, and carried 
 the money to the Yoshiwara. He continued his 
 career of crime, murdering and plundering, till he 
 was arrested by the authorities, found guilty, and 
 beheaded as a common malefactor. Chobei claimed 
 his body and head, and buried them at Meguro. 
 Ko-Murasaki first knew of his fate by hearing people 
 talk of the handsome young samurai, whose deeds 
 were so black that he was denied, when found 
 guilty, the privilege of his rank, namely, death by
 
 A JAPANESE ROMANCE 115 
 
 hara-hiri. Overwhelmed with grief, she escaped 
 that night out of the house, and making her way to 
 Meguro, threw herself on the grave of her lover, 
 where she prayed and wept bitterly. In the morning 
 the priests of the temple found the lifeless body of 
 the lovely "Little Wild Indigo," with a pierced 
 throat, on the newly-made grave, and seeing what 
 had happened, laid it side by side with Gompachi. 
 
 Such is the story of the romance which has made 
 Meguro famous in Nippon, and has attracted, and con- 
 tinues to attract, thousands of natives and foreigners 
 to the grave of the lovers, as to a hallowed spot. 
 
 ThouQ;h Ko-Murasaki was a courtesan of the 
 Yoshiwara, the priests did not consider that they 
 were wrong in attributing to her, in the inscription 
 on her tombstone, the virtue of misac (chastity). 
 She sold herself to that life for the sake of her 
 poverty-stricken parents, and according to Japanese 
 ideas, especially of that age, she did not by so doing 
 forfeit her claim to virtue. On the contrary, her 
 self-sacrifice was deemed worthy of the highest 
 praise. 
 
 I 2
 
 116 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHAPTEB IX. 
 
 NIKKO AND NEIGHBOUKHOOD. 
 
 "Yhe Nortlicrn Kailway — Unaccountable delay — " Nikko the 
 Magnificent " — The avenue — The Kanaya — ExcesBive rain- 
 fall — Divine service — The sacred bridge — General Grant— 
 Shodu Shonin and Shusha Daio — Mausolea of lyeyasu and 
 lyemitsu — English middies — Cascades — En route to Chu- 
 zenji — Images of Amida — Kobo Daishi — The saint's calli- 
 graphy — Straw shoes — A farthing wasted — Fellow-vagrant 
 — Japanese hill roads — Steep climb — Komantic scenery — 
 Nantai-zan — Chuzenji — Absence of bird-life — " The 
 Nightingale of Jajjan " — Senj6-ga-hara — Yumoto — Annai- 
 j6 — A Japanese "interpreter" — An amusing mistake — 
 Convivial company — Eain-bound — Return to Nikko — 
 Landslips — Welcomed at the Kanaya — The Lochs Katrine 
 and Vennachar of Japan — Meeting old acquaintances — 
 Arrival at Yokohama — American Independence Day. 
 
 Armed with a general passport obtained from the 
 Foreign Office of Tokyo through the British embassy, 
 I set out for Uyeno station (visiting the imposing 
 Eussian cathedral on the way), and took train by the 
 Northern Eailway for the famous city of temples, 
 Nikko, covering the intervening ninety miles in six 
 hours. Five hours was the regular time, but the
 
 NIKKO TEE MAGNIFICENT 117 
 
 train stopped an hour at a small station as we 
 approached our destination, but the cause " no fellow 
 could understand." I asked in vain in such polite 
 Japanese as I could command, and was thinking of 
 doing the rest of the journey on foot and leaving the 
 luggage to follow, when I saw signs that a start was 
 at last about to be made. Nor was it a false alarm, 
 for in a few moments we were off, and in twenty 
 minutes drew up at Mkko, or rather Hachi-ishi, as 
 the station and village are called, for Mkko, properly 
 speaking, is the name not of a single place, but of a 
 district. But here, as generally, by Nikko will be 
 meant the part of the district where stand the famous 
 Mausolea. 
 
 The Italians say, " Vedi Napoli e poi mori " (" See 
 Naples and then die "). Other nations have a similar 
 saying with regard to one of their show-places. The 
 Japs do not go so far as to say that there is nothing 
 worth living for after you have seen Mkko, but they 
 assert, rather more modestly, and with a good deal 
 of reason as well as rhyme — 
 
 " Nikko wo minai uchi wa, 
 * Kekko ' to iu na ! " 
 
 which, being interpreted, is, " Do not use the word 
 ' magnificent ' till you have seen Mkko." Magnifi-
 
 118 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 cent it is admitted to be by all who have visited it, 
 and few are the places on this earth where nature 
 and art are seen combined in such impressive 
 grandeur as they are at Nikko. To lofty mountains, 
 lovely vales, and picturesque cascades and giant 
 forest trees are added shrines and temples whose 
 glory is unsurpassed. 
 
 Those who do the journey by rail miss seeing 
 to advantage one of the great attractions of Nikko, 
 namely, the famous avenue by which it is approached, 
 and which is described with such eloquence by 
 Pierre Loti in his * Japonaiseries d'Automne.' They 
 only get occasional glimpses of it. It leads from 
 Utsunomiya, the junction on the Northern Eailway, 
 to Nikko, a distance of twenty miles, and is lined 
 throughout with the most stately cryptomerias. To 
 see the great avenue aright, one ought to rick'sha its 
 whole length; but since the advent of the railway 
 few do so. 
 
 At Nikko I put up at one of the most comfort- 
 able hotels of the country, the Kanaya, situated in 
 the upper part of the village, and near the temples. 
 One of the drawbacks of Nikko, indeed the only 
 drawback that I know of, is its excessive rainfall. 
 If you are there only for a short time, the chances 
 are that you will have to do your round of sight-
 
 THE KANAYA 119 
 
 seeing by dodging the showers ; but in that respect 
 Nikko, after all, does not differ much from some of 
 our popular Highland resorts. But if you are kept 
 indoors by the weather more than is pleasant, the 
 Kanaya is just one of those houses where with the 
 usual resources you can feel comfortable at all times. 
 I arrived on Saturday too late to begin the " lions," 
 and as Sunday was my only entire day for Mkko, I 
 had to do my sight-seeing then, notwithstanding the 
 day and a drizzling rain. An American doctor of 
 Amoy, who had spent some weeks at Nikko, and 
 knew the ins and outs of the place, kindly offered to 
 act as my guide. In the morning I held a service 
 in the drawing-room, at the request of the proprietor, 
 and had for a congregation a score of highly-cultivated 
 English and American visitors, chiefly the latter, 
 who entered heartily into the service. I and my 
 fellow-guests deeply appreciated the proprietor's 
 evident desire to offer his patrons all the advantages 
 in his power, but the Kanaya, though admirably 
 appointed in other respects, could boast no hymn- 
 books, and so we had no singing. I hope that the 
 deficiency will soon be supplied by some rich and 
 generous Churchman visiting the City of Temples. 
 
 After luncheon my gentleman guide and myself 
 set out, and in a few minutes found ourselves at the
 
 120 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 Eed Bridge, which spans the Daiya-gawa, and which, 
 
 built in 1638 and last repaired in 1892, is closed to 
 
 ordinary mortals, being only used by the Mikado 
 
 and his family. According to my American cicerone, 
 
 General Grant (who in the course of his tour round 
 
 the world visited the Land of Gentle Manners) was 
 
 offered by the Emperor the right of using the Sacred 
 
 Bridge ; but the plain and simple soldier would hear 
 
 of no exception being made in his favour, but, cigar 
 
 in mouth, crossed by the pubKc bridge. The Sacred 
 
 Bridge, which is of wood and red lacquered, rests 
 
 on stone piers of great solidity fixed into the rock 
 
 on each bank. It is called in Japanese " Mihashi," 
 
 which means Sacred Bridge. Like everything else 
 
 at Nikko, it has its legend, which is briefly as 
 
 follows. When Shodo Shonin of pious memory first 
 
 arrived at this spot, he found that owing to the steep 
 
 rocks and the seething waters, his further progress 
 
 was impossible. Falling on his knees he prayed 
 
 fervently to the gods to come to his aid, whereupon 
 
 there appeared on the opposite bank the indistinct 
 
 figure of the god Shusha Daio, wearing a string of 
 
 skulls round his neck, and holding in his right hand 
 
 two green and red snakes, which he flung across the 
 
 abyss. In an instant a bridge was seen to span the 
 
 torrent "like a rainbow floating among the hills."
 
 lYEYASU AND lYEMITSU 121 
 
 So impressed was the saint by the sight that he 
 doubted the reality of the miracle, and was only 
 convinced of the practical intervention of the god 
 on his behalf when he saw the bridge becoming 
 covered with long grass. Being now satisfied with 
 the stability of the structure, he ventured upon it 
 with his disciples, but as soon as he had reached the 
 opposite bank, both the deity and the snake-bridge 
 completely disappeared. Such is the legend which 
 the Japanese relate with a sceptical smile. A shrine 
 of Shusha Daio now marks the spot where the god 
 appeared. 
 
 Crossing the stream and ascending through a grove 
 of giant cryptomerias, we arrive at the great temples 
 and tombs of the Shoguns lyeyasu and lyemitsu. 
 Armed with a permit — for which we were charged 
 35 sen — we surrender ourselves to the contemplation 
 for three hours of these matchless shrines, " as glorious 
 in colour as the Alhambra in the days of its splendour." 
 Each of the mausolea embraces a set of buildings 
 every detail of which challenges the eye. The pre- 
 cincts include innumerable stone and bronze lanterns, 
 portals within portals, pagodas, courts, chapels and 
 temples and oratories, adorned with the most elabor- 
 ate carvings in wood, bronze and ivory, representing 
 gods, demons, dragons, lions, tigers, unicorns, ele-
 
 122 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 pliants, monkeys, flowers and plants. Words can 
 give but a faint idea of the conscientiousness of the 
 work, the gorgeous magnificence of the whole, and 
 the beauty of its deep green setting. 
 
 At the slu-ine of leyasu we fell in with some Eng- 
 lish middies, who had run up from Yokohama for a 
 week-end holiday and who were nursing a grievance. 
 They thought it " a beastly shame " that they were 
 not allowed to have a free run of the slirine and its 
 precincts, and chafed at the restraint placed upon 
 them by the authorities. They probably thought it 
 another instance of the unreasonableness of the 
 Japanese that they were debarred from using the 
 Sacred Bridge. 
 
 From the temples we went to see two or three of 
 the cascades for which Mkko is also celebrated. 
 Their character may be inferred from some of their 
 titles, which are Kirifuri-no-taki, or "Mist-Falling 
 Cascade," Somen-ga-taki, or " Vermicelli Cascade " 
 (called also Shiraito, " White Thread "), Makkura- 
 daki, or "Pitch-dark Cascade," so-called from the 
 possibility of passing behind the falls. 
 
 Early on Monday I left on foot for Chuzenji. 
 Twenty minutes out of Mkko I passed several hun- 
 dred images of Amida ranged in a row on the oppo- 
 site side of the Daiya-gawa, the exact number of
 
 CHtfZENJI 123 
 
 wliicli is said to be unknown. There is the same 
 superstition regarding them that prevails with respect 
 to certain Driiidical stones and steeple steps in Eng- 
 land — that they count up differently, however often 
 they are reckoned. The natives will tell you in all 
 seriousness, and without their habitual incredulous 
 smile, that no two persons could number the stones 
 alike, and that even the expedient of pasting a slip 
 of paper on to each image as it is counted has been 
 found to be of no avail. The largest image was some 
 time ago carried down some distance by a flood, but 
 was recovered and now stands at the entrance into 
 Mkko. Near the images is a precipitous rock in the 
 Daiya-gawa on which is written the Sanskrit word 
 Hdmmam. As the rock seems inaccessible owing to 
 the boiling eddies, the carving of the word is ascribed 
 to Kobo Daishi, the famous Japanese Buddhist saint, 
 who is said to have performed the feat by throwing 
 his pen at the rock. But Kobo Daishi figures so 
 much in Japanese legend that it has been said that 
 " had his life lasted six hundred years instead of sixty, 
 he could hardly have graven all the images, scaled 
 all the mountain peaks, confounded all the sceptics, 
 wrought all the miracles, and performed all the other 
 feats with which he is popularly credited." {Murray). 
 This eminent saint's calligraphy, though famous,
 
 124 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 was not infallible. In a temple at Kyoto there is 
 shown an inscription which is ascribed to him, and 
 one of the characters of which is faulty. This has 
 given rise to a proverb — a Japanese rendering of the 
 proverb that "even Homer nods" — Koho mofude no 
 ayamari (" Even Kobo sometimes wrote wrong"). 
 
 But after all there is nothing miraculous about the 
 inscription in the Daiya-gawa, as there is authority 
 for attributing it to a disciple of Jigen Daishi, only 
 two centuries ago. 
 
 I set out from Nikko with a pair of waraji (straw 
 sandals), which are said to give a better foothold in 
 walking along a mountainous road. They were worn 
 tied underneath my boots, for which I had a difficulty 
 in procuring a pair big enough, as the natives, male 
 as well as female, have such dainty feet. In the 
 presence of a crowd of curious onlookers, the obliging 
 and polite little shopman who dealt in straw articles 
 at Nikko was at infinite pains to secure to the soles 
 of my heavy boots the largest pair he had in stock, 
 but, alas ! I had scarcely got clear of the village when, 
 without a warning, they flew off. Such was my first 
 and last experience of waraji, which are recommended 
 to Europeans as excellent foot-gear, but wliich I 
 found of very little service. The pair cost me a 
 farthing.
 
 A FELLOW-VAOBANT 125 
 
 Two miles out of Mkko I was overtaken by one of 
 the guests of the Kanaya, Mr. Guinness of Dublin, 
 who was touring in Japan on his way home from 
 Burma. Leading his kuruma (which was drawn by 
 two coolies), he accompanied me on foot the rest of 
 the stiff journey to Chuzenji, While the coolies fol- 
 lowed the zigzag windings of the road, we ascended 
 by the steeper short-cuts usually taken by pedestrians, 
 arri"STng at a tea-house — a recognised stopping-place 
 — halfway up the hill some time in advance of the 
 Tcuruma. Of all hill roads perhaps those of Japan 
 have the easiest gradient. A^'^len you have walked a 
 mile or two up one of these roads, you are very little 
 nearer your objective, as the stork flies, than when 
 you set out. The extent of ground traversed is out 
 of all proportion to the real ascent made. Hence a 
 foot-path more or less defined cuts across these tor- 
 tuous windings, and good climbers usually take the 
 more direct and steeper way, and gain in time what 
 they lose in comfort. Kagos, too, are generally taken 
 along the shorter routes. At the tea-house we had 
 some time for recuperating after our arduous climb 
 while waiting for the coolies, and after another hour's 
 effort we reached the summit, and began a gradual 
 descent which brought us in a few minutes to the all 
 but deserted village of Chuzenji, on the charming
 
 126 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 lake of that name. The scenery throughout was very 
 striking, often wild and romantic. Several rugged 
 gorges were passed, and many a cascade tempted us 
 to linger and admiie, and dominating all was Nantai- 
 zan, the mountain monarch of that region. For quaint 
 beauty Japanese scenery stands alone. Probably in 
 no other countiy does the traveller meet with such a 
 succession of fanciful pictures. The scenery of Nikko 
 and its neighbourhood represents every variety seen 
 in the country, and no one who knows the most lovely 
 regions of Europe and Japan would say that the fol- 
 lowing extract from the preface to a little handbook 
 to Nikko, compiled by an educated native, is the lan- 
 guage of exaggerated patriotism : " I have always had 
 a passion for travel. In my spare time I have visited 
 new scenes and found pleasure in rambling over 
 mountains and along the courses of rivers. I have 
 always come back from these visits elated with pride : 
 for I thought that the scenery of my own country 
 was ill no point inferior to that of far-famed Switzer- 
 land or Scotland." And good reason had he to be 
 proud. 
 
 I said that Chuzenji was all but deserted. That is 
 its normal condition. For a few days in July and 
 August it is crowded by pilgrims who make the as- 
 cent of Nantai-zan as a religious exercise. As many
 
 A FELLOW-VAGRANT 127 
 
 as ten thousand then put up at the \allage. Lake 
 Chuzenji is about 7^ miles long and 2^ miles broad, 
 and stands 4375 feet above the sea. It was devoid 
 of life up to 1873, in which year it began to be 
 stocked with fish by the. Government and now abounds 
 with salmon, salmon-trout, iwana (a species of white 
 trout) and other fish. My fellow-traveller and my- 
 self lunched together ofi" salmon-trout in a yadoya 
 overlooking the lake. After luncheon Mr. Guinness 
 returned to Nikko, while I went on 2 ri 27 cJio (from 
 six to seven miles) further to Yumoto, a little village 
 famous for its hot springs and its picturesque position 
 on a lake of that name. I was fortunate in making 
 the journey from Mkko to Yumoto at the best time 
 of the year, when the azaleas, irises and wistarias 
 which are common in the district were in full bloom. 
 Two or three more beautiful cascades (one, called the 
 Dragon's Head Cascade, being the most curious in 
 the district) were passed, then the road led through 
 a desolate forest, which had been ravaged by fire, and 
 over a wide plain known as Senj6-ga-hara, or Moor 
 of the Battle-field, so called on account of a great 
 battle fought at the spot between the forces of Shogun 
 and Mikado in a.d. 1389. During such rambles one 
 misses very much the bird life which delights the ear 
 in the country districts of our own land. Japanese
 
 128 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 woods are oppressively quiet, but in the open country 
 the lark, differing but little from ours, is in evidence, 
 and dming my solitary journey across the Senj6-ga- 
 hara his song was always heard. Another of tho 
 feathered songsters which is sometimes heard is the 
 uguisu, or " nightingale of Japan," but it has little 
 in common with the nightingale of the West. 
 
 At Yumuto I put up at the Namma-ya, which had 
 a full complement of guests, though I succeeded in 
 having a " room " to myself. That was due not only 
 to my being an Englishman, but also to my being the 
 bearer of an annai-j6 (or letter of recommendation) 
 from the Kanaya at Nikko, in which my merits as a 
 guest were set forth in the usual hyperbolic style of 
 Orientals, and full justice done to my supposed im- 
 portance in my own country. This system of carry- 
 ing a commendatory letter from one inn to another 
 is a common one in Japan, and is a distinct advan- 
 tage to European travellers. Some of the best native 
 hotels keep printed forms of annai-j6, which they fill 
 in with the traveller's name, destination, etc. In ad- 
 dition to a commendatory letter, the guest who has 
 given a liberal chadai (tea-money) is presented on 
 his departure with a fan or some other useful 
 article. 
 
 No one at the Namma-ya knew a word of English,
 
 AN AMUSING MISTAKE 129 
 
 but the landlord soon brought in, and presented to 
 me with extravagant politeness, the landlord of a 
 rival inn close by (the rivalry being evidently a very 
 friendly one) as one who knew English. But, as 
 often happens in Japan, knowledge of English in his 
 case meant an acquaintance with a dozen English 
 words in every-day use, which made him of very 
 little service as an interpreter. He spent an uncon- 
 scionably long time in my room, and dropped in 
 several times afterwards before I left the village, 
 under the idea that he was of real help to me. 
 
 Still, I had no serious difficulty in making my 
 wants known in the house. I w^as becoming more 
 and more on speaking terms with the language every 
 day, and was congratulating myself upon the success 
 which attended my efforts, when an amusing incident 
 occurred which proved to me that it was one thing 
 to cram up a stock of Japanese words, and quite 
 another to make a right use of them. I thought I 
 had made it abundantly plain to the mousme that I 
 wanted an egg boiled four minutes, and her "he! 
 he!" ("yes, yes,") and " kashikomarimashita" (I 
 have assented," " I have been reverential,") as she 
 tripped out of the room to execute the order left no 
 doubt in my mind but that my wishes were perfectly 
 understood. It was a stunning blow to; my pride at 
 
 K
 
 130 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 my progress in the language when a few minutes 
 later O Kikuyo San brought in, and with supreme 
 politeness laid before me, four boiled eggs ! What 
 she must have thought of me ordering four eggs I 
 don't know, but she seemed so anxious to make no 
 mistake in caiTjing out my orders that I took the lot 
 without comment, reserving two for the following 
 morning. I could not scold her (my vocabulary did 
 not include a single harsh word), and besides, in that 
 gentle land, it is the height of " bad form " to scold 
 the weaker sex. 
 
 I was looking forward to a good night's rest and 
 meant to retire early, being quite " done up " after 
 my long up-hill walk from Nikko, but, alas ! sleep 
 till long after midnight was out of the question. In 
 another part of the yadoya the native guests were so 
 very convivial, and their hilarity was so unusually 
 noisy, that I had to put up with the annoyance as 
 philosophically as possible, trusting every moment 
 to hear the party breaking up. This it did not do 
 till the small hours of the morning. The obliging 
 landlord would, I have no doubt, have so far 
 deferred to the foreign guest who was lending 
 distinction to his house as to have interfered and 
 restrained the mirth, if he had been asked, but I was 
 very unwilliag to demand such self-sacrifice on the
 
 CONVIVIAL COMPANY 131 
 
 part of such good-tempered people who were enjoying 
 then- holiday in their own way in a popular watering- 
 place, and who were only indulging in some innocent, 
 if boisterous, fun, "Eoars of laughter" would be 
 no mere figure of speech, but a perfectly literal 
 description of the general merriment. One of their 
 number w^as evidently a wit. Most of the talking 
 was done by him, and some of his sallies of humour 
 were simply "side-splitting," judging from the 
 screaming laughter which they provoked. How- 
 ever, I laid me down early on the comfortable /Mto?i 
 prepared for me, trusting that the party would soon 
 break up. But the hope was a vain one. 
 
 Yumoto is a quaint little village, and would be 
 very pleasant but for the sulphur fumes. It is 
 5,000 feet above the sea, and the atmosphere in the 
 height of summer is deliciously cool. In mid-winter, 
 owing to the snow, the entire village is abandoned 
 by the regular inhabitants, who migrate to Mkko, 
 leaving their houses in charge of a few hunters. A 
 night and a day were to have been the extent of my 
 stay at Yumoto, but it kept raining so incessantly 
 that I remained there a second night, expecting 
 every moment to see a rift in the clouds. I soon 
 got on terms of acquaintance with all the villagers, 
 as well as the visitors, male and female, and towards 
 
 K 2
 
 132 JOURNEYS AMONO THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 the end of my sojourn among them all seemed to 
 know my position — that I was rain-bound and 
 waiting till the clouds rolled by. But I spent a 
 happy time there notwithstanding, though I looked 
 around from time to time in vain for the silver 
 lining. The service of the one solitary rick'sha of 
 the village was repeatedly pressed upon me, but the 
 charge was absurdly high, and I decided to hope on 
 a little longer. 
 
 Seeing no signs of an improvement in the weather 
 on Wednesday afternoon, and having thoroughly 
 explored the village and its immediate surroundings, 
 I resolved to wait no longer, jand at five, amid the 
 " sayondras" of several of my newly -made friends, 
 set out on my return journey, and reached the 
 Kanaya hy nine. I was heartily welcomed by the 
 European visitors, who expressed surprise at what 
 they were pleased to regard as a feat of pedestrianism. 
 My intention on leaving Yumoto was to proceed no 
 further than Chiizenji that night, to put up at the 
 inn at which I had lunch on the way up, and to 
 start for Mkko at sunrise the following morning, in 
 order to catch an early train for the south. Finding, 
 however, on reaching Chuzenji that there was yet 
 a good deal of daylight left, I decided to do the 
 remaining nine miles that night. The visitors at
 
 JAPANESE ROADS 133 
 
 the Kanaya seemed to think, too, that I had run 
 no little risk, but, though it was a solitary journey 
 among mountains, and much of it was done after 
 sunset, the only real danger arose from the numerous 
 landslips which had been caused by the heavy rains, 
 and at more than one spot I had some difficulty in 
 making my way in the dusk. It is commonly 
 observed that the country roads of Japan, though 
 well made in the first instance, are not kept in as 
 good a state of repair as they might be. The road 
 connecting Mkko with Yumoto would be a very 
 good one, and superior to most country roads in 
 England, but for the occasional landslip or subsidence, 
 which the authorities do not seem to think it worth 
 while repairing. Sometimes one comes upon a large 
 hole in the middle of the road, which it is not 
 thought necessary to fill in or even fence in. 
 
 I have never heard the comparison made, but I 
 should be inclined to call Lakes Chuzenji and 
 Yumoto the Lochs Katrine and Vennachar of Japan. 
 As I have walked the whole length of the two latter 
 (including Achray), so I skirted nearly the entire 
 length of the two former, and I was struck with a 
 certain resemblance. The Japanese lakes are, ot 
 course, much higher — being veritable lakes in the 
 clouds — but the sizes and surroundings (allowing for
 
 134 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 the peculiarities of Japanese landscape) are strikingly 
 alike. As yet Chuzenji boasts no Boh Boy steamer, 
 though it has several picturesque sampans, but there 
 is no doubt that, as soon as it is visited by tourists in 
 sufficiently large numbers, a dainty Uttle steamer 
 Avill be seen churning its waters. Chuzenji, like 
 Loch Katrine, has its legends and traditions, but 
 whether it has its Walter Scott I am unable to say. 
 
 Before quitting Nikko the following morning, I 
 paid a second visit to the temples, for, after all, a 
 first visit, however thorough, can only give a confused 
 idea of their barbaric grandeur. 
 
 On my way to the station I overtook three travel- 
 stained natives who, radiant with smiles, hailed me 
 as an old acquaintance. I immediately recognised 
 them as three villagers of Yumoto, who probably had 
 little thought of ever seeing me again. 
 
 It was night when I reached Yokohama, and on 
 approaching the harbour I observed that the ships 
 were illuminated and that rockets were being sent 
 up. My fellow passengers — all natives — were much 
 excited by the spectacle and crowded to the side of 
 the carriage nearest the sea. It did not occur to me 
 at first what might be the meaning of the display. 
 That some event of great national importance — such 
 as the buth or the accession of the Mikado, or the
 
 AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE DAY 135 
 
 promulgation of the Constitution — was l^eing cele- 
 brated I had no doubt. It was only when I 
 thought of the date (July 4th) that it occurred to 
 me that the Japanese might possibly be observing 
 the American Independence Day. My surmise 
 turned out to be correct. Not even in the States 
 did the anniversary excite greater interest than 
 in some parts of distant Japan. In addition to their 
 own national holidays, the Japanese recognise also, 
 and observe with more or less enthusiasm, Queen 
 Victoria's birthday, the German Emperor's birthday, 
 and the American and French national anniversaries. 
 They are a holiday-loving people, and it matters 
 little to them that they are celebrating the red-letter 
 day of a country thousands of miles away.
 
 136 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE TOKAIDO LINE. 
 
 Irregular service — Kindness of a Tukyu student — Eeturn of 
 troops from the war — Demonstrations — " The Peerless 
 Mountain " — The earthquake of 1891 — Lake Biwa — Kobe 
 ■ — " Union Church " — Pimkahs and fans — An Oxford Con- 
 temporary — An interesting Virginian — Cholera — Nimobiki 
 — Kudeness of a Motisme — Osaka — The castle — Captain 
 Saris's description — The Mint — Japanese self-reliance — ■ 
 Kyoto — Mysterious names — Coolie versus donkey-boy — 
 Story of Kyoto — " Lions " of Kyoto — Exhibition — Japan 
 as an industrial Power — Yaami's — Return to Kobe — Arrivals 
 from China. 
 
 I WAS kept waiting twenty-seven hours at Yoko- 
 hama for a through train to Kobe. I had to go 
 early in the day to the station to inquire, as the 
 railway arrangements were still uncertain owing to 
 the movements of the troops, and no reliance could 
 be placed upon time-tables. The first available train 
 did not leave till 10.45 that night, and at 10.30 I 
 found myself once more on the Tokaido platform, 
 surrounded by a crowd of gentle, good-natured Japs, 
 squatting in groups, myself and a white-uniformed
 
 KINDNESS OF A TOKYO STUDENT 137 
 
 policeman or two alone standing. Kobe is distant 
 from Yokohama 358 miles, and (as there are as yet 
 no sleeping-cars on Japanese railways) the journey 
 is a fatiguing one, and is seldom performed by 
 tourists without a break. A " stop-over " either at 
 Shizuoka or at Nagoya is the rule. I booked to the 
 latter place, although it was my original intention to 
 go on direct to Kobe. I almost dreaded a night and 
 a day in a Japanese train. Those who had done it 
 and survived had told me that it was about as much 
 as poor humanity could stand. They had travelled 
 first. Though I was going to travel second, I thought 
 I would attempt it, but at the last moment my 
 courage failed me and I booked to Nagoya. 
 
 Sitting opposite me in the carriage (for he actually 
 sat, and did not show an irresistible tendency to 
 tuck his feet under him and squat) was a highly 
 intelligent student of Tokyo, who was bound for 
 Kyoto, and who took no little interest in his English 
 fellow-voyager. As we approached Nagoya on 
 Saturday morning, I did not by any means feel as if 
 I was nearing the limit of j)hysical endurance, and 
 thought I might venture to carry out my original 
 plan. "Would it be necessary (I asked myself) to 
 re-book at Nagoya ? I had luggage checked to that 
 station ; how was I to have it Ijrought along with
 
 138 JOUIiNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 me to Kobe ? Here my friend proved of real service 
 to me. At a busy station just before coming to 
 Nagoya, he took my ticket with the diTference in 
 money (which he had made out from a time-table, 
 which in Japan is also a fare-table) and the luggage- 
 check, and in a few minutes — minutes of some 
 anxiety to me, as I expected the train to be off every 
 moment — he returned with a fresh ticket, having 
 seen everything all right. The guard (or, as he 
 called him, the "manager") under whose notice I 
 was now brought, for the remainder of the long 
 journey took quite a paternal interest in me, and 
 every now and again came to the carriage window 
 to see how I fared. Many were the kind young 
 student's inquiries about England, and especially 
 London, which all educated Japs hope to see before 
 they are absorbed in Nirvana. Train-loads of troops 
 from the front with their kits and horses constantly 
 passed us. At some of the stations the school- 
 children were drawn up on the platform, in lines 
 three or four deep, and at a signal from their 
 teachers, as the military train steamed in, they all 
 in unison sent up three hearty and quite British 
 cheers. How many more thousands of the troops 
 were to come people seemed to have no idea. For 
 weeks several trains in the day had been entirely
 
 RETURNING FROM THE TOUR 139 
 
 devoted to them, to the great inconvemence of the 
 general public. Between Kobe and Kyoto there had 
 been for some time only two trains a day each way, 
 whereas ordinarily there were at least three times 
 that number. The consequence was that those two 
 trains were crowded like cattle-trains. When we 
 arrived at Kyoto we found the platform literally 
 crammed with passengers, and our long train soon 
 proved too small, and several extra carriages had to 
 be put on. At that season the passenger traffic 
 between Kyoto and the neighbouring towns was 
 abnormally heavy owing to the Exhibition, of which 
 more anon. 
 
 For the greater part of the distance the Imperial 
 Government Eailway from the modern to the ancient 
 capital follows the Tokaido, the great national high- 
 way, crossing and recrossing it at intervals. Tunnels 
 and bridges are numerous, some of the latter of great 
 length. Many of the rivers along the route have a 
 bed out of all proportion to the small volume of 
 water that generally flows down, and the bridges are 
 consequently often very long. The bed of one river 
 crossed — the Oigawa — is nearly a mile across, while 
 the stream, except in flood time, is only about a 
 hundred feet wide. 
 
 The railway passes through the broad and fertile
 
 140 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 plain suiTounding Fuji, and at Gotemba — the highest 
 point on the line — is obtained one of the finest views 
 of the " Peerless Mountain." Passing through the 
 provinces of Owari and Uno, with their thickly 
 scattered towns and villages, we see evidences still 
 remaining of the terrible earthquake which devas- 
 tated that part of the country in 1891, and by which 
 10,000 people perished, 20,000 were injured, and 
 128,000 houses were destroyed. The line runs for 
 some miles parallel with the shore of the far-famed 
 Lake Biwa, which is classic ground, and after passing 
 in succession Kyoto and Osaka, we arrive at our 
 destination. 
 
 Twenty minutes' ricJdslia ride from the station 
 (Sannomiya) brought me to my quarters — Ballard 
 House — patronised by missionaries and their families, 
 and similar in its arrangements (though with stiffer 
 charges) to Miss Brittan's at Yokohama. 
 
 Kobe (including Hyogo), one of the five Treaty 
 Ports and the second export city of the Empire, has 
 a population of nearly 100,000. It has a picturesque 
 setting, with a rugged chain of mountains as a back- 
 ground. It is a favourite resort, owing to the purity 
 and dryness of its atmosphere, and its nearness to 
 some of the most interesting places of the country. 
 The range is dotted up the slope for some distance
 
 KOBE 141 
 
 with fine European villas, and at night the hill- 
 side and the harbour look as if illuminated for some 
 festive occasion. There are three foreign hotels at 
 Kobe — the Oriental, the Hyogo, and the Colonies. 
 There is also a fine clul3 with a recreation ground 
 upon which are played the usual English and Ameri- 
 can games, such as cricket, base-ball, lavrn-tennis, 
 etc. The main street — Moto-machi — abounds in 
 curio shops, in which you can purchase all sorts of 
 Japanese curiosities, from a god or goddess to a stone 
 lantern. 
 
 The day following that of my arrival at Kobe was 
 Sunday, and in the evening I attended service at the 
 so-called " Union Church " — which means that it is 
 shared by the Anglicans and the Congregationalists 
 of the town. That evening it was the Church's turn. 
 I am afraid that the physical discomfort which I 
 suffered while in church interfered not a little with 
 my profiting spiritually either by the service or the 
 chaplain's (Eev. Sidney Swann) admirable discourse. 
 The church was furnished with punkahs, which 
 (although it was by no means hot) were kept going 
 during the whole of the service. Every lady, too, 
 had her fan, and even some of the gentlemen, for 
 Europeans take to a fan almost as naturally as the 
 natives, though perhaps they are not, as a rule, as
 
 142 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 graceful in the use of it. What with currents and 
 cross currents, one worshipped at a decided dis- 
 advantage, and it was difficult to realise that we 
 were in church at all. The multitude of fans, even 
 without the huge punkahs, were quite enough to set 
 up a breeze. My objection to a punkah of the sort 
 I speak of is that you get the full force of the wind 
 (I will not call it a cooling breeze) right on the top 
 of the head, which, to those with a crown suggestive 
 of a billiard ball, is not altogether pleasant. More- 
 over, I have known cases of a violent cold being 
 caught from the working of punkahs, when the air 
 was not sultry enough to require it. The operation 
 at the " Union Church " at Kobe was, to my mind, 
 a species of Sunday labour that might well have 
 been dispensed with. 
 
 At Kobe I was the guest of the Eev. C. Graham 
 Gardner and Mr. Cameron Johnson, the former a 
 missionary of the S. P. G. and a contemporary of 
 mine at Oxford. I was much interested in his work 
 at Shinomiya — a quarter of the town — and in the 
 neat little church in which he officiated to the native 
 population. Mr. Johnson was a Virginian, and was 
 in temporary charge of the Seamen's Mission. He 
 was a young man of varied experience in Japan, and 
 his account of life in the most out-of-the-way parts
 
 CEOLEBA 143 
 
 of the country with which he was familiar was very 
 entertaining. 
 
 On the second Sunday it was my privilege to 
 occupy the pulpit at the " Union Church," but the 
 " privilege " was to a great extent discounted by the 
 punkah nuisance. I have delivered an address with 
 much less difficulty on an open deck in Mid-Atlantic 
 under a stiff breeze. 
 
 The prevalence of cholera was calculated to detract 
 from the thorough enjoyment of one's stay at Kobe, 
 but the immunity of Europeans was to some extent 
 reassuring. In going about the native quarter and 
 seeing at intervals a notice on the door of a cholera- 
 smitten house, one experienced an uneasy feeling at 
 first, but familiarity with the sight soon deadened all 
 sense of danger. The epidemic was supposed to 
 have been brought from China by the troops. 
 
 Foremost among the sights of the Kobe district 
 are the Nunobiki Waterfalls, which are about a mile 
 from the Settlement. They consist of the Mendaki, 
 or "Female FaU," and Ondaki, or "Male Fall." 
 They are beautiful cascades, and large numbers of 
 people visit them at all hours of the day, and sip tea 
 and gossip and lounge at the tea-houses which are 
 perched on eminences commanding the best views, 
 Murray calls the tea-houses of Nunobiki noisy, and
 
 144 JOUENEYS AMONG TEE QENTLE JAPS 
 
 advises ladies only to go there under the escort of 
 gentlemen. Perhaps the caution was needful. I 
 found the moiisones rather more " forward " than they 
 ai'e in tea-houses in general. One went so far as to 
 snatch my copy of Murray out of my hand, and pre- 
 tended to read it to the intense amusement of lier 
 friends. It was the first act of rudeness on the part of 
 a native that I had experienced. I have been wonder- 
 ing since if she knew that Murray did not give them 
 a very good name. Perhaps it is scarcely likely. 
 After the pretence of being able to read Igerisu 
 (English), the rude little moicsme proceeded to 
 examine and comment upon the sketches of gods 
 and goddesses in the book, the names of which she 
 gave in almost every instance correctly. The hideous- 
 ness of Emma-o, of Fudo, and of the Seven Gods of 
 Luck, seemed to cause her some amusement, as it 
 does Europeans. In that respect probably she did 
 not differ from less " forward " members of her race. 
 The Japs wear their religion very lightly. They 
 take neither life nor religion au grand serieux. 
 
 From Kobe to Osaka is a journey of a little over 
 an hour by rail. Osaka is the second city of the 
 I^mpire in size, and is variously called the Venice 
 (from its numerous bridges and canals), the Glasgow, 
 and the Chicago of Japan. Its forest of chimney-
 
 OSAKA 145 
 
 stacks — as many as there are churches in Moscow, 
 368 — and, generally, its commercial and industrial 
 importance justify the latter appellations. Formerly 
 it was the military capital of the country. Accord- 
 ing to the last census, it has a population of 
 361,694, and covers an .area of nearly eight square 
 miles. 
 
 One of the most important sights of Osaka is the 
 Castle, which has played a conspicuous part in the 
 most stirring times of Japanese history. It was 
 built in 1583 by the great Hideyoshi, and completed 
 in two years, the labourers being drawn from every 
 part of the country. A magnificent palace which 
 stood originally within the Castle no longer exists. 
 Osaka Castle is one of those sights of Japan which 
 stay-at-home Englishmen are apt to treat as mythical. 
 They think that the account of it brought home by 
 travellers must be far too highly coloured, and 
 accordingly they make a very large mental deduction. 
 I must confess that after all I had already seen in 
 Japan to excite my wonder I was not altogether pre- 
 pared for such a stupendous sight as Hideyoshi's for- 
 tress. I shall not attempt to add to the descriptions 
 which have already been given of it, but content 
 myself with quoting the quaint account of it given 
 by the observant Captain Saris at the beginning of the 
 
 L
 
 146 JOUHNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 seventeenth century — an account Miiicli is strikingly 
 true of the place as it appears to-day. 
 
 " We found Ozaca," saj^s Captain Saris, " to be a very great 
 towme, as great as London within tlie walls, with many faire 
 timber bridges of a great height, seruing to pass over a riuer 
 there as mde as the Tltarnes at London. Some faire houses we 
 found there but not many. It is one of the chiefe sea-ports of 
 all Japan : hauing a castle in it, maruellous large and strong, 
 with very dee]« trenches about it, and many draw-bridges, with 
 gates plated with yron. The castle is built all of free-stone, 
 with bulwarks and battlements, with loope holes for smal shot 
 and arrowes, and diuers passages for to cast stones vpon the 
 assaylants. The walls are at the least sixe or seuen yards 
 thicke, all (as I said) of free-stone, without any filling in the 
 inward part with trumpery, as they reported vnto me. The 
 stones are great, of an excellent quarry, and are cut so exactly 
 to fit the place where they are laid, that no morter is used, but 
 onely earth cast betweene to fill vp voyd creuises if any be." 
 
 Some of the stones measure as much as forty feet 
 in length and ten feet in height, and can only be 
 compared to the Temple foundations at Jerusalem. 
 Even the moats are paved with granite. The Castle 
 now serves as headquarters for the garrison, and the 
 prim, dapper Japanese soldier is met at every turn. 
 
 I had to obtain a permit to visit the Castle by 
 personal application at the city office (Osaka Fu), 
 where the extreme courtesy of the officials was in 
 sharp contrast with the incivility and self-importance 
 of many of the same class in England and America.
 
 THE IMPERIAL MINT 147 
 
 The same unfailing courtesy was shown to me at 
 the Mint {Zokd-kyoku), another place of interest at 
 Osaka usually visited by foreigners. You present 
 your card at a lodge at the entrance into the grounds 
 (no official permit being required in this case), and in 
 a few moments, a young man, who speaks English at 
 least tolerably, is told off to accompany you through 
 the building. He takes you tlirough room after 
 room, and explains the various stages in the process 
 of coining with such lucidity as his knowledge of 
 English will allow. Though he was the pink of 
 politeness, I could not prevail upon him to allow me 
 to carry away with me as a souvenir a silver yen 
 which I had seen with my own eyes stamped and 
 weighed, and in exchange for which I offered two 
 yen. It was against the rules, and, glad as I should 
 have been to get it, I did not press him. He volun- 
 teered the information that I could obtain any 
 number of fresh coins at the Imperial Bank; but 
 that was not what I wanted. I left upon him, 
 probably, the impression that Englishmen have some 
 curious fancies. 
 
 The Mint is now entirely worked by natives, the 
 services of the last foreigner having been dispensed 
 with recently. It is the same at the Government 
 paper and printing-works at Tokyo. A recent visitor 
 
 L 2
 
 148 JOVRNEYH AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 to Japan (Mr. A. G. Boscawen, M.P.) rightly remarks 
 in a magazine article * that, " alone of all Orientals, 
 Japan has learnt not merely to do well under 
 European tutelage, but to dispense with European 
 tutelage. Other Easterns — Indians, Egyptians, 
 Chinese — can fight and manufacture if led and 
 organised by European officers and managers. Japan 
 has learnt to do these things by herself. Her people 
 have not been content to follow blindly and do what 
 they were told, but they have gone deeper and learnt 
 the reason why of our civilisation, and now they are 
 applying their knowledge." 
 
 A visit to a temple or two, a stroll through the 
 great bazaar, which, with its labyrinthine mazes, is 
 one of the favourite haunts of the people, and a tiffin 
 on a balcony overhanging the river Yodogawa, with 
 its countless quaint junks, and sampans, and barges, 
 occupied the rest of the day, and in the evening I 
 returned to my headquarters at Kobe, again in a 
 crowded train. 
 
 A few days later I visited Kyoto, again passing 
 through Osaka. Though there was an event of 
 special interest to take place that day at the Exhibi- 
 tion — the distribution of awards by a member of the 
 reigning house. Prince Yamashina — the carriages 
 * The National Review, May 1896.
 
 COOLIE VERSUS DONKEY-BOY 149 
 
 were not crowded, and I had a compartment almost 
 entirely to myself. Arrived at Kyoto, I at once 
 made for the rickisJias, in my eagerness to be at the 
 Exhibition in time for the Imperial ceremony, and 
 asked a coolie to wheel me to the " exhibition," the 
 rest of the order being in faultless Japanese. I 
 found that the English word conveyed no meaning 
 whatever to him. I tried "exposition," with the 
 same result. I was soon surrounded by a swarm of 
 coolies, to whom I repeated the name of my destina- 
 tion; but one and all had no idea what place I 
 meant. How I longed for one of the donkey-boys 
 of Egypt, who would have made out my meaning as 
 soon as the name was uttered. If there had been an 
 exhibition in Cairo or Alexandria, there would not 
 have been a donkey-boy in any part of the city that 
 would not have known the term for it in half-a-dozen 
 languages. It is quite true that Kyoto has very 
 little foreign element, and is not a cosmopolitan city 
 like Cairo or Alexandria, but a considerable number 
 of English and Americans must have run up from 
 Kobe and elsewhere to see the exhibition. It had 
 been open for some time, but "exhibition" and 
 " exposition " were still terms unheard of among the 
 nckisha men. I tried a railway official with a like 
 result, and was thinking of setting out on foot to see
 
 150 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 if I could not by accident come upon the place I 
 was seeking, when a student arrived upon the scene 
 who at once grasped the meaning of the mysterious 
 name — wliich he pronounced, as nearly as possible, 
 " exception." Turning to the bewildered coolies, he 
 told them that the place the "honourable English 
 gentleman " wished to go to was the " hakarankwai." 
 " Hakarankwai ! " several of them exclaimed, looking 
 at one another, as if each thought the others very 
 stupid that they had not thought of it. All were 
 now ready to take me there, and there was a keen 
 but friendly competition for the honour. I selected 
 the first who came up to me, and off he trundled 
 with me merrily through two or three miles of the 
 city, arriving just in time to be told that the cere- 
 mony was at an end. Kyoto, though not as large as 
 Tokyo, is yet a city of such magnificent distances, 
 that I might have wandered about its streets for days 
 and not come near the Hakarankwai. 
 
 The Exhibition was held in connection witli the 
 eleventh centennial celebration of the founding of 
 Kyoto. Built by the Emperor Kwammu in 793, 
 Kyoto was continuously the capital of the empii'e 
 from its foundation till the revolution of 18G8, when 
 the Shogunate was abolished, and the Mikado was 
 restored to his ancestral position. It occupies an
 
 KYOTO 151 
 
 area of twenty-five square miles, and has a popula- 
 tion of about half a million inhabitants, but since the 
 foundation of Yedo in 1590, it has declined in size 
 and importance. The population is only half what 
 it is supposed to have been in mediaeval times, and 
 parts of the city which were then busy streets are 
 now open spaces, forming parks and gardens. It is 
 almost entirely encircled by hills, and the Tokaido 
 Kailway has to make a sharp bend in order to get 
 into the city. It is a city, not of seven hills, but of 
 thirty-six peaks, on the slopes and at the feet of 
 which are not less than forty-fivo temples. Of these 
 the Chion-In, with its bronze bell as famous as that 
 of Moscow, the Kiomidzu, Dai-Butsu, Sanjiusangendo^ 
 and the two Hongwanjis, are among the great Bud- 
 dhist shrines of the country. Well may Kyoto 
 aspire to the ambitious title of "Eome of the Far 
 East." 
 
 Of other buildings of historic interest at Kyoto the 
 chief are the Imperial Palace, covering an area of 
 nearly twenty-six acres ; the Mjo Castle, with its 
 Cyclopean wall, a typical example of a Japanese 
 fortress, within " a dream of golden beauty " ; Kin- 
 Kakuji and Gin-Kakuji — Gold Tower and Silver 
 Tower — both monuments of the fourteenth centuiy ; 
 Sen-yugi, for over six centimes the burial-place of
 
 152 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE QENTLE JAPS 
 
 the Mikados, and Kiyomizu-dera, dedicated to the 
 Eleven-faced Thonsand-lianded Kwannon. 
 
 To return to the Exhibition. It was the fourth of 
 the kind undertaken by the Imperial Government 
 for the exprOvSS purpose of stimulating progress in 
 arts and manufactures. The charge for admission 
 was five sen, equal at the then rate of exchange to 
 l^f^. On Saturdays it was three sen. For the 
 custody of an umbrella the charge was ^d. On a 
 board near the entrance into the Exhibition were 
 various notices in English as well as in Japanese, 
 one of which, at least, is not often seen in this 
 country, and might with advantage be placed at the 
 entrance to our exhibitions at Earl's Court. It was 
 this : " In case of illness within the Exhibition 
 ground, application for medical assistance should be 
 made to the dispensary in the western side of the 
 Kogyo-kwan (Industrial Arts building)." Another 
 notice ran : " No insane or intoxicated person shall 
 be admitted, though he is provided with an admission 
 ticket." 
 
 The main buildings were five in number, and were 
 assigned to manufactured articles, agricultural pro- 
 ducts and implements, fishery implements, machinery, 
 and fine art exhibits. Among the accessories were 
 an aquarium, bazaars — where articles from all parts
 
 EXHIBITION 153 
 
 of the empire were exposed for sale — and tea-liouses 
 without number. To give an adequate idea of the 
 contents of the Exhibition would require the pen of 
 an expert. It was not as such, but as one of the 
 masses, that I wandered for three hours through the 
 vast buildings, admiring the splendid sample show, 
 and lost in astonishment at the creative energy of 
 New Japan. I was only an ordinary observer, but I 
 could not help thinking, from the indications around 
 me, that the day was not far distant when the Britain 
 of the Pacific would be a formidable rival to Britain 
 of the Atlantic. 
 
 It was said of the Tokyo Exhibition of 1890, that 
 to walk through all its halls and passages once meant 
 a tramp of fourteen or fifteen miles. That of Kyoto 
 was considerably larger. That will give a fair idea 
 of the immense number of exhibits which had been 
 brought together thither from different parts of the 
 empire. 
 
 A day at Kyoto was all too brief, but it was all 
 that could be spared. Owing to the shrinkage of the 
 city in modern times, many of the places of interest 
 are some distance out, and much time is spent in 
 passing from one to another. After a hard day's 
 sight-seeing, wound up by a good meal at Yaami's — 
 one of the most comfortable hotels of the country.
 
 154 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 commanding a fine view of the city — I returned by a 
 late train to my headquarters. 
 
 In the course of the day a number of English 
 residents of Shanghai had arrived at the house, much 
 concerned about the Chinese servants they had 
 brought with them. They were not aware till they 
 landed of a temporary regulation made since the 
 war forbidding Chinese to enter the country. One 
 family man, who had brought two amahs, had been 
 to the consul and the governor, but they could do 
 nothing for liim. In the last resort he had wired to 
 the Home Secretary at Tokyo, the amahs being 
 allowed to remain in liis service pending the appeal. 
 Whether the regulation was finally enforced I do not 
 know, as two days later, when I left the house, no 
 answer had been received from the Home OflEice. 
 Those of the party who were visiting Kobe for the 
 first time were quite enthusiastic over the contrast 
 which the pleasant position of the city presented to 
 the flat, monotonous, uninteresting environment of 
 Shanghai.
 
 ( 155 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 KOBE AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD. 
 
 Setting out for the hills — Sumiyoshi — Kagos — Rokko-san Pass 
 — Arima — Tennis-courts — The Sugimoto-ya — A Japanese 
 "room" — Superior cuisine — Complimenting the cook — 
 Arima wares — Departure — Escorted by a Mousme — Wild 
 scenery — Takarazuka — Splendid hotel — "Bismarck Hill" — 
 Nishinomiya — School-children — Temple of Ebisu — Nara 
 — An interesting Persian family — Colossal image of Buddha 
 — Kasuga Temple — Temple of Wakamiya — Dancing 
 Priestesses — Temple of Ni-gwatsu-do — In love with the 
 Mikado — Osaka — Archdeacon Warren — Earthquakes — 
 Invited to re- visit Arima — Remarkable riverbeds — "Festival 
 of the Dead " — Suma and Akashi — Atsumori — Mr. C. E. 
 Fripp. 
 
 The favourite summer resort of the Kobe residents 
 is Arima, some nine miles from the settlement, "as 
 the stork flies," but more like sixteen by road. It 
 is fourteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. 
 It is famous for its bamboo basket industry, and for 
 its medicinal springs, which Hideyoshi is said to 
 have used, and which are regarded as a panacea for 
 rheumatism, and the various forms of skin disease
 
 156 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 so prevalent among the Japanese. Being difficult 
 of access, it is not often visited by the ordinary 
 traveller, but, though the road is rough, narrow and 
 precipitous, to a good walker the journey is not par- 
 ticularly trying. There is the alternative of the kago, 
 but the jolting must make that mode of locomotion 
 along such a road scarcely less fatiguing than walk- 
 ing. Taking an early train to Sumiyoshi — the next 
 station to Sannomiya — and having reduced my 
 impedimenta to the smallest possible bulk — a parcel 
 of a few pounds — I set out for the hills. Before 
 leaving the village of Sumiyoshi, I was relieved of 
 my parcel by an American family who were also 
 bound for Arima, and who kindly offered to bring 
 it along in one of their Jm(/os. Walking ahead alone, 
 I arrived in much less time than the guide-book 
 said was necessary at the summit of the Eokko-san 
 Pass, three thousand feet above the sea, and, looking 
 back to admire the glorious view, saw the kagos 
 about three miles down the slope, winding their way 
 slowly like a caravan. Coolies were met at frequent 
 intervals returning from Arima with their empty 
 Jca(/os. A journey of less than an hour down the 
 other side brought me to the outskirts of a village, 
 where I met an American, who, in answer to my 
 inquiry how far I was from Arima, gave me the
 
 ARIMA 157 
 
 welcome but unexpected information that I was 
 actually in Arima, From the top of a ridge I had 
 made out another village, some distance beyond, to 
 be my objective, but though the journey had not 
 been as trying as I had heard it represented, it was 
 trying enough, and I was not sorry at the un- 
 expected ending of it. From the American visitor 
 I learnt, too, that there was plenty of room in the 
 village, though I had been told at the coast that at 
 that time of the year — the height of the season — I 
 should find it difficult to get accommodation. At 
 the Sugimoto-ya, I found splendid lodging and an 
 excellent tiffin immediately on my arrival. But 
 I did not see Arima under the best conditions; it 
 rained incessantly from the time of my arrival till 
 my departure the following day. Still, I was able 
 to take several pleasant excursions, besides rambles 
 about the straggling village. The scenery round 
 Arima is pretty, though not remarkable. My 
 objection to the place as a holiday resort is that it 
 is so shut in by mountains. That rather commends 
 it to the Japanese, but I do not quite understand 
 why it should be so popular with the Europeans and 
 Americans. To the natives the chief attraction is 
 the baths, the buildings of which are very fine. 
 My parcel turned up safe and sound, though some
 
 158 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 hours after my arrival. In ' the course of my 
 rambles, I was surprised, a little outside the village, 
 to come upon two lawn tennis courts, as well rolled 
 and limed as any I had seen elsewhere. It was not 
 what one would have expected to see in such a 
 distant corner of the world, but there is no "just 
 cause or impediment" why our countrymen and 
 countrywomen in the Far East should not have 
 such things at their holiday resorts as well as 
 ourselves. 
 
 My room at the Sugimoto-ya was only European 
 in so far as it was furnished -with, a table and a 
 chair, and had part of it curtained off for a bed- 
 room, which had the luxury of a washstand, or, at 
 least, an apology for one. There were no bed- 
 clothes proper, only the usual futon. The bareness 
 of a Japanese room is never more noticed than of a 
 rainy day, when you are obliged to be a great part 
 of the time indoors. Then you long for the cheering 
 look of a few homely articles of furniture. Scrupu- 
 lously clean as the rooms generally are, with their 
 artistic kakemonos and snow-white mats and shoji 
 prettily covered with silver or gold stamped paper, 
 the absence of furniture makes a long seclasion in 
 them depressing. By reading and writing your 
 mind may be diverted to some extent from your
 
 COMPLIMENTING TEE BOOK 159 
 
 environment, but, withal, you miss tlie cheery 
 aspect of an English room. But English residents 
 who had had several years' experience of native inns 
 and private houses told me that they did not notice 
 it at all. They could sit or squat for hours between 
 those bare partitions, like the natives, doing nothing 
 but ruminating and yawning. It seemed to be 
 their ideal of a dolce far niente life. 
 
 The meals at the Sugimoto-ya were so excellent 
 that I asked on leaving to see the cook, in order to 
 compliment her. She was entirely ignorant of 
 English, but I had no difficulty in telling her what 
 I wished in honorific Japanese, and, from her 
 frequent bowing, it was evident that my language 
 was at least intelligible; and whether it was that 
 I was piling on the complimentary epithets too 
 thick or not I don't know, but Eitsu San seemed 
 quite overcome. The native values very highly a 
 good word from the foreigner, especially the English- 
 man, and will treasure it in his memory. In this 
 case the few words of encouragement were fully 
 deserved. 
 
 Formerly the bamboo and basket wares which are 
 the speciality of Arima could be bought for a song, 
 but, owing to the incursions of foreigners, prices now 
 range from the real value of the article up to a sum
 
 160 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 many times its intrinsic worth. I did not find in 
 Arima a ready disposition to accept less than the 
 price originally asked for, and my " tahcd " (dear) 
 had very little effect, but, owing to my visit being 
 made on foot, I did not wish to encumber myself 
 with unnecessary weight, and only carried away a 
 few small mementoes. 
 
 I left after tiffin for Takarazuka, about eight miles 
 distant. A moiisme was sent with me to the other 
 end of the village, about a mile off, to put me on 
 the ri^ht road. The rain held off a little duriuQ- the 
 journey. The road was an excellent one, but zig- 
 zaggy as it led down into the valley of the Mukogawa. 
 The scenery was very wild, and the rocks more 
 volcanic than any I had yet seen in Japan. I 
 passed through two or three villages, at each of 
 which I was pressed to take a kuruma, so rarely 
 is a European seen walking along the~ route. At 
 Takaradzuka I found a thoroughly English hotel, 
 as comfortable as could be desired. There was 
 nothing Japanese about it, except the mats and the 
 maids. Perhaps I ought to add the swallows' nests, 
 which clung to the cornices in the corridors and 
 even in the dining-room, and to which their owners 
 had free and unrestricted access. It was an ad- 
 mirably appointed hotel, and deserved a much larger
 
 TAKARAZUKA 161 
 
 patronage than it seemed to get. I found myself 
 the only guest, and there were not many names in 
 the visitors' book. It seemed to be patronised chiefly 
 by Kobe residents, who went there for a week-end 
 holiday. The situation of the hotel is very pleasant, 
 the view of the valley of the Mukogawa from the 
 verandah being charming. Near the; hotel are some 
 mineral baths, which are held in great repute. The 
 village is much smaller than Arima, but is not so 
 much hemmed in by mountains. In the neighbour- 
 hood is a hill, called by the foreign residents of 
 Kobe " Bismarck Hill," from the resemblance of the 
 four trees which are seen on its summit to the four 
 hairs which the great ex-Chancellor is said to have 
 on the top of his head. The outline also of the hill 
 suggests the upper part of Bismarck's cranium. 
 
 On the morrow, immediately after a good English 
 breakfast, I resumed my journey, arriving in about 
 two hours at Nishinomiya, on the Tokaido Eailway. 
 The road passed through a stream with the usual 
 wdde bed, through which I had to wade, there being 
 no bridge. In the village I met a crowd of merry- 
 hearted children coming away from the (/akko 
 (school), each carrying a little umbrella and a 
 satchel, and looking* for all the world as if they had 
 just "jumped off a fan." There was the usual 
 
 M
 
 162 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 gentle chorus of " Ohayos ! " and much ciuious, but 
 never offensive, gazing at the strange-looking 
 foreigner. Japanese children are never rude — they 
 are a model to little English barbarians as regards 
 behaviour. 
 
 Nishinoraiya is celebrated for a temple of Ehisu, 
 one of the seven Gods of Lnck, and the patron of 
 honest labour. It is visited by large crowds of 
 pilgrims on the occasion of the annual festival, 
 which takes place in February. 
 
 From Nishinomiya I took train for Osaka, and, 
 crossing nearly the whole of the town by kuruma, 
 went by another line to Nara, where I arrived by 
 six o'clock. I was received with much cordiality at 
 the house of an American missionary, the Eev. Isaac 
 Dooman, a gentleman of Persian birth, with some 
 half-a-dozen pretty little children, whose pronounced 
 Persian features made me think, as they ran out to 
 greet me, that I was in the Shah's rather than the 
 Mikado's Empire. Mr. Dooman was away in Kyoto, 
 but Mrs. Dooman, a lady of the same nationality as 
 her husband, showed me every hospitality. Mr. 
 Dooman is a wonderful linguist, knowing, in addition 
 to Persian and English (which he speaks fluently), 
 a dozen or so other European and Asiatic languages. 
 Mrs. Dooman, who has not the same gift of tongues,
 
 NABA 163 
 
 aud speaks English but indifferently, interested me 
 very much, in her broken speech, with her account 
 of the Nestorian Christians, to which body her 
 family belonged, several of her relatives being in 
 the ministry. She remembered her grandfather 
 resenting the arrival of some Methodist missionaries 
 at Tabreez, where he lived, because they used no 
 liturgy. 
 
 ISTara was the capital of Japan from a.d. 709 till 
 784. Though it is supposed at present to be only 
 about a tenth of its former size, it is a considerable 
 place. I was informed that I was the only English- 
 man in the town, but not the only one of my race, 
 as there was one American — a Congregationalist 
 missionary. 
 
 The chief products of Nara are Indian ink, fans, 
 toys, horns, etc. 
 
 One of the chief sights of Nara is a colossal bronze 
 image of Buddha, which is higher by six feet than 
 the one at Kamakura. As far as its history can be 
 made out, it dates from the middle of the eighth 
 century, but the present head seems to be at least 
 the third. The first fell off about a hundred years 
 after it was cast, and the second was melted by a 
 fire which destroyed the building in which it stood 
 during a civil war in 1180. The building was again 
 
 M 2
 
 164 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 burnt in 1567, and once more the head rolled off. 
 Whether the head which it now wears is the same 
 one restored or an entirely new one which replaced 
 it, is not very clear. But the sight of a figure which 
 is so venerable and which has suffered such vicissi- 
 tudes has a pathetic interest even for those who do 
 not regard it with a superstitious sentiment. It has 
 not the calm, placid expression of that at Kamakura, 
 being, in fact, a representation of a different deity — 
 Eoshana or Birushana — while the latter stands for 
 Amida. 
 
 Another of the principal sights of Nara is the 
 Kasuga Temple, which is approached by an avenue 
 of stone lanterns, of which it is said that no one 
 knows the exact number. The temple is of bright 
 red, which presents a striking contrast to the deep 
 green of the magnificent cryptomerias by which it is 
 surrounded. In the grove are a number of tame 
 deer, which eat out of the hands of visitors. Biscuits 
 are sold for the purpose at the entrance. Near the 
 main temple stands the Temple of Wakamiya, in 
 connection with which there are in constant attend- 
 ance a number of young Shinto priestesses, who, 
 arrayed in Zouave trousers and a long gauzy mantle> 
 and with the face plastered thickly with white-lead 
 powder, perform an ancient dance called kagura. It
 
 DANCING PRIESTESSES 165 
 
 consists of graceful figures and posturings, and is 
 accompanied by an orcliestra of three priests playing 
 on various instruments and chanting sacred songs. 
 The payment is a donation of at least 50 sen towards 
 the service of the temple. 
 
 A jfine Buddhist temple of Kara is the M- 
 gwatsu-do, curiously built on the side of a hill, with 
 its front and sides supported by piles, and led up to 
 by a steep flight of stone steps. A short distance 
 below the temple is a famous copper bell, suspended 
 in an immense belfry, and weighing nearly thirty- 
 seven tons. It was cast in a.d. 732. 
 
 Of a certain pathetic interest is a pretty little lake 
 at Nara, overlooked by two fine pagodas, of which 
 the following legend is told. In the days when 
 Kara was the capital of the country and the abode 
 of the Mikado, there resided at the court a beautiful 
 maiden, whose hand was sought by all the courtiers, 
 but who rejected their offers of marriage because 
 she was in love with the Mikado. For a time the 
 Emperor looked graciously upon her, but soon grew 
 cool towards her, when she stole away from the 
 palace by night and drowned herself in the lake. 
 
 At Osaka, on my return to Kobe, I spent a night 
 at the house of Archdeacon Warren, through the 
 courtesy of Mr. Meadows, who was in charge, the
 
 1G6 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 venerable archdeacon being away in Eui'ope. A son 
 — the Eev, C. F. Warren — arrived at the house 
 shortly after me, after a long and unbroken ride 
 from the capital. Of a certain grim interest was the 
 drawing-room, wliich was wrecked by the great 
 earthquake of 1891, when the lives of the Bishop of 
 Exeter and others of his family were for a time in 
 imminent peril. The room had been completely 
 restored, and looked very little like tlie one which 
 was photographed immediately after the earthquake 
 and of which a view appears in Miss Bickcrsteth's 
 ])0ok on Japan. Before retiring that night Mr. 
 Warren kindly offered me some suggestions how to 
 act in case of an earthquake. I was advised to rush 
 under a doorway and remain there till the immediate 
 danger should be over, if there should not be time 
 to get quite clear of the l3uilding. Mr. Warren had 
 done so only two or three days before during a 
 shock at Tokyo, though, as it fortunately happened, 
 no damage was done on that occasion. One of the 
 great drawbacks of life in that enchanted land is 
 that you don't know what moment the house you 
 are in may topple down, like a house of cards, about 
 your ears. You are ever, as it were, on the brink of 
 a volcano, and your nerves have no sooner recovered 
 from the effects of one vibration, and you begin to
 
 EARTHQUAKES 1G7 
 
 forget the unpleasant sensation, than another comes 
 to disturb your equauimity again. Though there is 
 said to be on an average an earthquake a day in 
 Japan, the shocks are not often such as to cause 
 grave fears. Still, the frequency of even slight 
 tremors gives you a disquieting sense of the in- 
 secmity of the ground under your feet, or of the roof 
 over your head, from which we in this country are 
 happily free.* 
 
 Notwithstanding the gruesome topic of conversa- 
 tion between us up to a late hour that night, my 
 consciousness of the wreckage wrought in that very 
 house by the terrible event of 1891, and the presence 
 within my bed-curtain of a vicious mosquito which 
 I had failed to evict, I slept the sleep of the just. 
 
 Mr. Warren was leaving early the following 
 morning for Arima, and cordially invited me to 
 accompany him and to spend a few days at his 
 house there, where I should meet various mission- 
 aries who resorted to that popular watering-place for 
 their holidays, but, to my regret, I was not able to 
 spare the time for another visit to Aiima. 
 
 The line between Osaka and Kobe passes through 
 
 * The above lines were no sooner ■written than the news 
 reached England of the terrible seismic wave in Japan by 
 which 35,000 people lost their lives.
 
 168 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 three tunnels, wliicli are remarkable as being under 
 river-beds. The beds of some of the mountain 
 torrents have been so filled up with sand and stones 
 brought down from the liills that in many cases they 
 have been raised some feet above the general level 
 of the country and have the appearance of dykes. 
 Consequently, when, as sometimes happens, a stream 
 overflows its banks, the results are very disastrous. 
 
 When I was in the Osaka district Japan was 
 celebrating the Bon Matsuri, or "Festival of the 
 Dead." The idea of it is that the dead revisit their 
 former earthly abodes at that season. During the 
 anniversary cemeteries are illuminated, and white or 
 coloured lanterns placed in the doorways of the 
 houses — the former to guide home the disembodied 
 spirits of those recently deceased, and the latter for 
 the guidance of those who have left the earth for 
 some time — and trays of rice, egg-fruit, and cucum- 
 ber are placed in readiness within. The distance 
 which the spirits have to travel is, according to the 
 native calculation (and the Japanese have a genius 
 for mathematics), something like 3,600,000,000 ri — 
 a ri being about two and a half miles. The people 
 seem to have no dread of these visitants from the 
 spirit world : rather do they welcome them. But 
 it is doubtful if any considerable proportion of the
 
 "FESTIVAL OF THE BEAD'' 169 
 
 people really believe in what they profess to cele- 
 brate. An intelligent Japanese lady gave a striking 
 answer to Sir Edwin Arnold who had asked her if 
 she believed in the doctrine and in the existence of 
 Emma-san, the deity of the Buddhist Hades. " You 
 have told me before," she replied, " that Emma-san 
 is only the Indian Yama, the Eegent of the Dead, 
 introduced into Japan ; and as for the departed, who 
 are still so dear to us, I believe they come back 
 TcohoTo no naka ni (into the middle of our hearts), but 
 not taku no naka ni (into the midst of our houses). 
 Yet it is right to do what all the neighbours do, and 
 to be kind to the dead if they should come ; there- 
 fore I shall light my lanterns and go to say my 
 prayers at Shiba." But whether they believe in it 
 or not, everybody takes part in the Bon Ifatsuri. 
 
 Among other places visited in the neighbourhood 
 of Kobe were Suma and Akashi, small seaside 
 villages on the Sanyo line, and favourite resorts of 
 Kobe residents. They are just at the entrance into 
 the Inland Sea. It is remarkable that, while 
 Japanese poets have never raved over the beauties 
 of that far-famed sea, they have been specially en- 
 thusiastic OA'er that part of the coast upon which 
 stand Suma and Akaslii, and which does not strike 
 Europeans as having any particular beauty. It
 
 170 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 figures in Japanese poetry from the eighth century 
 downward, its beauty being sung by llitomaro, one 
 of Japan's earliest great poets, in honour of whom 
 there stands to-day an interesting Shinto temple at 
 Akashi. Suma is associated in history with the death 
 of Atsumori, the story of whose fate is the subject of 
 a popular drama. During the Japanese struggle for 
 political supremacy between the rival Taira and 
 Minamoto clans in the twelfth century, Atsumori, 
 a young nobleman of the former clan, while fleeing 
 from battle near Suma, was about to be put to death 
 by the veteran Kumagai Naozane under the following 
 circumstances. When Naozane had Atsumori in his 
 power, and had torn off his helmet with a view to 
 cutting off his head, he was so struck with his 
 youthful face that out of pity he hesitated to carry 
 out liis design, but, on reflecting that if spared he 
 would ultimately fall into more ruthless hands, he 
 decided to kill liim. Atsumori submitted to his fate 
 with heroic courage, while Naozane was so overcome 
 with remorse that he retired to a monastery at 
 Kyoto, and spent the rest of his days in praying for 
 the soul of the youth whose life he had so un- 
 willingly taken. The episode is a famous one in 
 Japanese history and song. 
 
 Among the visitors at Ballard House was Mr.
 
 A "GEAPniO" ARTIST 171 
 
 C. E. Fripp, special artist and correspondent of 
 The Oixipliic and Tlie Daily Grci'pliic. He had just 
 crossed over from China, where he had made an 
 adventurous journey, and had made some most 
 interesting sketches, some of which he was then 
 elaborating. A few had already appeared in the 
 papers which he represented, and some which I saw 
 him engaged upon I was destined to see later on in 
 their finished excellence in those papers on my 
 return to England. The table at Ballard House was 
 never dull while genial Mr. Fripp was present and 
 recounting his experiences in the Celestial Empke.
 
 172 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE SANYO LINE. 
 
 Off the touriBt track — Ilimeji — A nervous fellow-passenger 
 — Tunnels — Okayama — The Miyoshino — Ilibachis — 
 Elaborate mosquito curtain — The Japanese mosquito — 
 Disputing the bill — Honesty of innkeepers — " Tea-money " 
 — Commercial morality of the Japanese — Japanese versus 
 Chinese — The Castle and the Koraku-En — A typical Dai- 
 myo's garden — A venerable crane — The Jap as a horti- 
 culturist — Grafting — Canon Tristram — Onomichi — Exten- 
 sion of the Sanyo Kailway — Formosa — A youthful emigrant 
 — Hiroshima — Overrun by the military — The Mikado — 
 Ifara-ldri — Cholera — Heavy death-roll — Position of Hiro- 
 shima — Hospitably entertained — Visit to a sacred isle — 
 Village demonstration — A hero of the war — Picturesque 
 scene — Ajina — The Sampan as seen by Will Adams — 
 Miyajima — Celebrated Shinto Temple — "Bird's Eest" — 
 Strange religious rule — Sacred fire — Tattooing — Eetum to 
 Hiroshima. 
 
 The Sanyo line, which connects Kobe with Hiroshima, 
 and is destined to extend as far as Shimonoseki, is 
 seldom traversed by the ordinary tourist. Coming 
 from the direction of the capital, he leaves the main 
 island at Kobe, and if he travels in the contrary
 
 THE SANYO LINE 173 
 
 dii'ection, he sets out on his land journey at the 
 same port. But the Sanyo line, if it has not the 
 same attractions for the sightseer as the Tokaido, has 
 many features of interest, and there are several 
 villages and towns along the route wliich the tourist 
 who can afford the time would do well to visit. 
 
 But it is not to be recommended as a means of 
 seeing the Inland Sea. You get here and there 
 fascinating glimpses of it, but to see the glories of 
 that famous archipelago to the best advantage, you 
 must, of course, sail or steam through it, and that 
 can be done either in one of the large liners which 
 run tlnrough between Kobe and Nagasaki, or in one 
 of the small coasting steamers which call at various 
 ports. 
 
 The railway run from Kobe to Hiroshima takes 
 about ten hours (distance 190 miles). At Himeji, 
 thirty-four mUes out of Kobe, you get a glimpse 
 from the train of its ancient Castle, which is the 
 largest in the country except that of Osaka. Founded 
 in the fourteenth century, it was enlarged in the 
 sixteenth by the great Hideyoshi. At Himeji (or 
 " Himedi," as it was named on the platform), there 
 is a station which would do credit to many a town 
 in England of the same size. My only "stop-over" 
 on the route was at Okayama, eighty-nine miles
 
 174 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 from Kobe, and nearly half-way. As we approached 
 the station, we passed through a tunnel — an un- 
 usually long one for Japan, being about half a mile. 
 When we were quite five miles off, a native, who 
 was at the time the sole occupant with myself of the 
 compartment, excitedly ran the whole length of the 
 carriage, putting up all the windows, saying some- 
 thing to me as he darted off, the meaning of wliich 
 I could only guess. I concluded that we were 
 approaching a tunnel of exceptional length, and I 
 expected to find ourselves in it at every moment. 
 But as the tunnel was an unconscionably long time 
 coming (the compartment in the meantime getting 
 very stuffy), I was beginning to think that I had 
 mistaken the action of my fellow-passenger, who 
 remained throughout in a high state of excitement. 
 When at length, after long wondering and doubting, 
 I found myself entering a tunnel, I prepared myself 
 for a few miles' experience of underground Japan, 
 after the careful precaution which had been taken. 
 After two or three minutes' absence of daylight, 
 however, we emerged again, apparently much to the 
 relief of my fellow- voyager, who, as soon as we v/ere 
 in the open air, went again the whole length of the 
 carriage, lowering the windows. Tunnels are com- 
 paratively rare in Japan. With all its hills, a long
 
 OKAYAMA 175 
 
 railway journey may be made tlu-oiigli the country 
 without passing through a single tunnel. 
 
 Okayama lies about seven miles from the sea, 
 with which it is connected by an excellent jinrickisha 
 road. I put up at the Miyosliino inn (said by 
 Murrmj to be near the railway station, but in reality 
 a mile and a half away). Host, hostess, and ser- 
 vants prostrated themselves on their knees and 
 noses with even greater self-abasement than I had 
 seen anywhere else in Japan (having probably rarely 
 had the honour of a visit from a European) ; but I 
 found them one and all unusually stupid. Not only 
 they did not know a single English word, but it was 
 very difficult to get them to understand anything 
 that I was not able to express in full and correct 
 Japanese. Broken phrases, the meaning of which 
 had been quickly grasped elsewhere, were of little 
 use there. What they lacked in intelligence they 
 made up in an ii-repressible disposition to laughter. 
 Except the host, who was gravity itself, they were 
 perpetually giggling. But it was as comfortable a 
 yadoyct as could be wished by a weary traveller. 
 The meals were good, and a superior hibacM (fire- 
 box) was ever at my side. I don't tliink that I have 
 done more than just mention once or twice this 
 useful article, which plays so important a part in the
 
 176 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 domestic life of Japan, and which, as far as I am 
 aware, is peculiar to that country. There are 
 hibachis of all shapes and materials, Ijut the usual 
 one is of wood, square or oblong-shaped, and lined 
 inside with sheet-copper. It is filled with lime-dust 
 or sifted ashes to within an inch or two of the top, 
 and on the heap is laid the glowing charcoal formed 
 into a pile. Surmounting it is a small iron frame 
 for holding the kettle, tea-pot, frying-pan, or any 
 other kitchen utensil which may be used. The 
 most elaborate hibachis have a number of little 
 drawers and compartments where the lady of the 
 house stows away her needles and cotton, combs, 
 and Jcanzdshis, and are therefore workboxes and 
 toilet-stands as well as fire-places. Some even serve 
 the purpose of a ^vriting-case. Then there is a 
 special form of hibachi — the tobacco-mono — which is 
 only used for smoking purposes, not, however, for 
 merely lighting the pipe (kiseru), but for holding it 
 and the tobacco when not in use. It is interesting 
 to watch the mistress of the house or the serving- 
 maid as she tends the little fire, how carefully she 
 economizes the precious fuel, forming a miniature 
 Fuji of the bits of charcoal, and blowing upon it 
 till the pile is red-hot, and the kettle begins to 
 "sing." The first thing brought to a guest at an
 
 THE JAPANESE MOSQUITO 111 
 
 inn or a tea-liouse is a hibachi, and even when it is 
 not required for warmth or for lighting the kiseru, it 
 is set before him as a mere matter of habit and 
 hospitality. 
 
 At the Miyoshino I had tlie luxury of an elaborate 
 mosquito curtain, which, fastened to rings at the 
 four corners of the room, nearly filled it. It was 
 the first I had been supplied with in a native house, 
 and a great boon it was, as the Nippon mosquito (Jca), 
 bred in the paddy-fields and marshes, is one of the 
 greatest pests of the coimtry. Thanks to the splendid 
 protection which I had that night, I slept soundly, 
 but was roused unusually early by the noise of the 
 rain-shutters (mado) being thrown open. There was 
 no good remonstrating with the disturber: my 
 Japanese was too crude to be intelligible at the 
 Miyoshino. The curtain was speedily stripped off, 
 and I had no alternative but to jump up and into 
 my clothes. Here only, in all my peregrinations 
 through the country, had I occasion to dispute the 
 Jcanjo (bill). If I had only been slightly overcharged 
 I should have made no fuss, but the amount was at 
 least double what it ought to have been. There 
 seemed little hope of getting the landlord to cut it 
 down till a policeman happened to pass, who, on my 
 inviting him in and showing him the account, said a
 
 178 JOUPxNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 few firm words to the host, with the result that a 
 very material deduction was made. Notwithstanding 
 the disagreement, as I mounted the hmuma, there 
 was the usual chorus of " sayondras ! " — in which the 
 landlord joined with apparent heartiness — and the 
 expression of gentle good wishes for a prosperous 
 journey. The fact is that a Japanese landlord, 
 notwithstanding liis cheery good nature and his 
 invariable politeness, will not scruple to impose 
 when he tldnks he has a guest with whom money 
 is no object. But give him to understand at once 
 that you will pay the full price for all you get and 
 even a little beyond, but that you will stand no 
 swindling, and he will present you an honest kanjo. 
 The occasional acts of gross over-charging are gener- 
 ally due to the idea that with the Englishman money 
 is no object rather than to a deliberate intention to 
 swindle. Some travellers, on arriving at an inn, 
 hand the landlord a present (known as cliadai, or 
 "tea-money"), wliicli, it is said, not only secures 
 extra attention, l3ut is allowed in the bill. The 
 amount of the chadai varies from twenty-five sc7i to 
 fifty sen per night ; but it is doubtful if anything is 
 really gained by the practice. At inns where you 
 live entirely d la jcqwnaisc there is a fixed charge, 
 known as hatago, which includes supper, bed, and
 
 COMMERCIAL MORALITY 179 
 
 breakfast. It varies from twenty-five to seventy- 
 five seTiy according to the quality of the inn and the 
 accommodation. There is no charge for fire, light, 
 or attendance. In some parts there is a fixed rate 
 for accommodation only, the food being charged for 
 according to order. 
 
 Europeans have no right to complain if they are 
 charged at a higher scale than natives. They give 
 much more trouble if they are unable to conform to 
 the Japanese style of living, and if they are beyond 
 the Treaty Ports, their host is under the obligation of 
 reporting their arrival to the police. 
 
 Of the commercial morality of the Japs some have 
 formed a less charitable opinion than I have ex- 
 pressed above. Of course I had no business dealings 
 with them on a large scale, but some English and 
 American merchants have spoken of them as dis- 
 honest, tricky, and altogether unscrupulous, and 
 thought the Chinese more straightforward. The 
 latter they credited with a good deal of the business 
 morality as well as the business instinct of the 
 English. The notice, said to be sometimes seen in 
 Chinese shop-windows, and referred to in 'Sartor 
 Eesartus,' "No cheating here," is evidently an 
 invention of the enemy. 
 
 The principal sights of Okayama are the Castle 
 
 N 2
 
 180 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 and the Koraku-En Gardens. The former — which is 
 shown for a small fee — is quite a museum of interest- 
 ing relics illustrating the history of Japan ; not all, 
 however, relating to ancient and mediaeval times, as, 
 in addition to old swords, coats of mail, helmets, etc., I 
 noticed guns and pistols of a generation ago. Though 
 I found myself the sole visitor, there was a large 
 staff of officials and hangers-on in the building, whose 
 well-meant services in explaining to me the various 
 exhibits were for the most part thrown away. The 
 Gardens (Koraku-En) attached to the Castle are 
 celebrated throughout Japan. They differ from the 
 ordinary run of public gardens in modern Japan in 
 being purely Japanese — with picturesque bridges, 
 rockeries, lakes, and summer-houses — without any 
 Western admixture. It is a typical Daimyo's garden. 
 It is a favourite haunt of picnic parties, especially in 
 the time of the cherry-blossoms. Four tame cranes 
 stalk about the grounds, one of which is supposed to 
 be two hundred years old. I naturally regarded 
 with a great deal of curious interest so venerable a 
 bird, whose stately gait betrayed but little his 
 weight of years. Much of the charm of the Gardens 
 was wanting on the occasion of my visit owing to 
 the lakes having been temporarily drained. 
 
 Perhaps there is too much that is artificial in
 
 JAPANESE HORTICULTURE 181 
 
 Japanese gardens to be entirely pleasing to English 
 taste. The Koraku-En was no exception to the rule 
 in that respect. In too many ways the Jap seeks to 
 surpass nature by art. But that he has a genius for 
 horticulture cannot be denied. Not only does he 
 with great success train up his children in the way 
 they should go, but also his trees. Giant trees as 
 well as dwarf trees are made to grow the way he 
 would have them. The monarch of the forest no 
 less than the young sapling has to bend to his will. 
 Grafting is practised much more than in this country. 
 Canon Tristram instances a full-grown maple tree 
 with seven large branches, each having foliage of a 
 different hue, varying from dark copper to pink and 
 greenish white. 
 
 Two or three hours' ride brought me to Onomichi, 
 one of the most prosperous towns in Western Japan, 
 and a flourishing seaport. It also possesses a few 
 fine temples, one of which — the Senkoji — is situated 
 on the slope of a very steep hill, and is approached 
 by a long flight of granite steps. 
 
 Up tni 1894 the terminus of the Sanyo line was 
 at Mihara, six mUes beyond Onomichi. In the 
 summer of that year it was extended to Hiroshima, 
 which in its turn wUl be the terminus but a very 
 short time, as the line is destined to end in the
 
 182 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 immediate futm^e at Sliimouoseki, and thus to 
 connect with the Kyiishu Eailway, which starts 
 from Moji on the opposite side of the narrow straits. 
 The section beyond Mihara runs through a hilly 
 district, having as many tunnels probably as there 
 are in all the rest of Japan. The country is arid 
 and infertile, presenting a striking contrast to the 
 other parts of the route. 
 
 Among my fellow-passengers from Onomichi to 
 Hiroshima was a young native who was on his way 
 out to seek his fortune in Formosa. That now 
 acquisition of the Empire was then on the lips of 
 every patriotic Jap, and though it had only just 
 been taken over, and its new masters were already 
 experiencing a foretaste of the difficulties which Li 
 Hung Chang assured Marquis Ito they would have 
 to cope with in reconciling the natives to the new 
 rule, to emigrate to Formosa had already l^ecome a 
 passion with young Japan. My youthful fellow- 
 passenger spoke very fair English, but his account 
 of the bright prospects before Formosa was more 
 glowing than grammatical. 
 
 Hirosliima I found overrun by the military. It 
 was here that the soldiers, returning from the front, 
 first touched native soil after the hardships of the 
 war, and the scenes at the landing-stage at the
 
 TEE MIKADO 183 
 
 little j)ort of Ujina — about three miles from the 
 town — were animated and exciting. The Mikado — 
 who made Hiroshima his residence throughout the 
 war — frequently drove down to the port to welcome 
 the troops. He who not many years before had 
 been invisible to his subjects, and had ranked well 
 nigh as a god, now showed himself openly — a plain, 
 almost commonplace mortal in European garb — 
 among the citizens of Hiroshima, and congratulated 
 his faithful soldiers on their valorous deeds in the 
 war, and spoke gracious words of welcome to them 
 on their return. 
 
 He lived there like a private citizen, only that 
 he worked far harder than an ordinary man, attend- 
 ing to affairs of state, taking his meals, and sleeping, 
 all in one room. It is said that a rich Japanese was 
 so filled with shame at the contrast between his own 
 way of living and that of the Mikado at Hirosliima 
 that he performed hara-kiri {Anglice, committed 
 suicide). Here I may observe, en parenfhesc, that 
 hara-kiri at the supposed call of honour is now a 
 thing of the past, having gone with the feudal 
 system. It was the restless, turbulent samurai 
 who generally resorted to that method of avoiding 
 disgrace, or of blotting out a stain on an honoured 
 name. Hara-kiri was an honourable death. A
 
 184 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 vulgar criminal was not allowed to choose that 
 method of leaving tho world, but was despatched 
 by the public executioner. Not to be allowed to 
 perform hara-kiri was a double disgrace to a con- 
 demned samurai. 
 
 The " Jcorera-hyo," as the Japanese term Asiatic 
 cholera, was raging at Hii'oshima with even greater 
 virulence than at Kobe, the number of deaths from 
 the pestilence alone being one day during my visit 
 above a hundred. There seemed to be no doubt 
 that it had been brought from the mainland by 
 the troops. Cholera does not seem to be endemic 
 in Japan, as in India and other countries of the 
 Orient. It is carried over almost every year from 
 some part of the Continent. Notwithstanding the 
 heavy death-roll, there was no panic, and very little 
 to indicate the presence of so terrible a scourge. 
 In the Far East the people have learnt by bitter 
 experience to take such visitations with philo- 
 sophic equanimity. Besides, their religion has 
 taught them to submit with composure to the 
 inevitable. 
 
 Hiroshima occupies a fine position at the mouth 
 of the Eiver Otagawa, being protected from the 
 north by a range of hills. It is the capital of a 
 province and the seat of a prefecture. It is a
 
 HIROSHIMA 185 
 
 prosperous town, and resembles, though it does 
 not approach, Osaka in the number of its canals. 
 
 I was quartered in the spacious house of the 
 Eev. Mr. Bryan, who, like many missionaries, was 
 spending a hard-earned holiday during the hot 
 season among the hills of Arima. Owing to his 
 absence I was doomed to pass the time at Hiroshima 
 without coming in contact with a single European 
 or American. I walked much about its intricate 
 streets, seeing all that was thus possible of native 
 life unaffected by European influence, but a fellow- 
 countryman was nowhere to be seen. Still, my 
 wants were never better ministered to than they 
 were by Mr. Bryan's native caretaker and his wife, 
 though the former knew but little English and the 
 latter not a word. 
 
 From Hiroshima I made an excursion to the 
 sacred island of Miyajima. The first part of the 
 journey was by ricksha along an excellent road 
 about ten miles to Ajina. My r^'cA•s/^a-man wore 
 the usual hat, which has been compared to a washing- 
 basin, a tight-fitting drawers of dark-blue cloth, with 
 his name and number in grand characters on his 
 back. We skirted the sea part of the way, passing 
 through several considerable villages. We overtook 
 a long procession of villagers — with the usual turn-
 
 186 JOURNEYS AMONG THE QENTLE JAPS 
 
 out of school-children headed hy their teachers — 
 escorting to his home a hero of the war who had 
 landed that morning at Ujina. There was an 
 attempt at singing — probably the Japanese version 
 of " See the Conquering Hero Comes ! " but the hero, 
 as usual, bore his honours with the utmost modesty, 
 and acknowledged with the natural gracefulness of 
 his race the greetings of the women and girls as he 
 passed. He was in the tattered uniform with wliich 
 he had gone through the campaign, and looked very 
 striking surrounded by m,cn in their holiday best. 
 
 From Ajina we crossed by samioan the channel 
 (about two miles wide) separating the island from 
 the mainland. Owing to a strong current the 
 passage was made by a considerable curve, and 
 occupied a much longer time than might have 
 been expected. Meanwhile, my kuruma-ya lay fast 
 asleep, bathed in perspiration, at the bottom of the 
 boat, and had to be roused on our arrival at the 
 opposite shore. 
 
 The sampan seems to have changed but little 
 since the days of Will Adams. The description 
 which he gives of the mode of propelling would 
 apply to a great extent now. He describes the oars 
 as "resting vpon a pinne fastned on the toppo 
 of the boats side, the head of which pinne was so
 
 A SACRED ISLE 187 
 
 let into the middle part of the oare that the oare did 
 hang in liis iust poize, so that the labour of the 
 rower is much lesse than otherwise it must be ; yet 
 doe they make farre greater speed then our people 
 with rowing, and performe their worke standing as 
 ours doe sitting, so that they take the lesse roome." 
 The old pilot's words came forcibly to my mind as 
 I crossed the channel and watched the operation of 
 the rowers. 
 
 Miyajima is one of the San-kci, or " three chief 
 sights " of Japan in native, if not in foreign estima- 
 tion, and has from ancient times been regarded as 
 sacred. It supports a population of about three 
 thousand, who are mainly fishermen and image- 
 carvers. Agriculture is unknown in the island. 
 There are several charming valleys, with the usual 
 tea-houses commanding the most lovely views. A 
 few deer are also found, which, as at Nara, feed out 
 of the hands of passers-by. What gives Miyajima 
 its sanctity is its famous Shinto temple, the torii of 
 which, standing some distance out in the sea, is a 
 favourite subject of Japanese art. The temple itself 
 is partly built over the sea on piles. According to 
 tradition, there was a temple at Miyajima as early 
 as the sixth century, but owing to the destruction 
 of the ancient archives of the island by a great fire
 
 188 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 which occurred in 1548, little is known for certain 
 of the island before the twelfth century, when the 
 temple had the reputation of being the most magnifi- 
 cent in Western Japan, Several Mikados and 
 Shoguns, as well as a large number of powerful 
 Daimyos, enriched it and made pilgrimages to it 
 from time to time. Much of it has been destroyed 
 during the last twenty-five years, and, being of wood, 
 the rest tlu-ough neglect is hastening to decay. 
 
 The use of the torii, or " bird's rest," which stands 
 at the approach to every Shinto shrine, has been 
 a puzzle to archaeologists. That of Miyajima is 
 perhaps the most familiar to us in pictures of any. 
 They are generally of granite, sometimes of bronze 
 or copper. Popular shrines have often a large 
 number of such arches leading up to them, made of 
 fir poles painted red. Old people may sometimes 
 1)0 seen throwing up pebbles at the top beam in the 
 belief that, if they lodge there, the soul of a dead 
 relative will be benefited. 
 
 There is a religious rule, formerly more rigidly 
 enforced than now, which forbids all deaths and 
 births on the island of Miyajima. In the case of 
 an unexpected birth, it is still usual to send the 
 mother away with all speed to the mainland, where 
 she has to remain thirty days. Though patients in
 
 HE TUB N TO HIROSHIMA 189 
 
 extremis are no longer removed, all corpses are at 
 once sent out of the island, while the chief mourners 
 have to remain away fifty days for ceremonial 
 purification. No dogs are allowed on the island. 
 
 On one of the highest peaks of Miyajima is 
 preserved a sacred i fire, which was lighted by Kobo 
 Daishi, and has never been allowed to go out. 
 
 It was late in the day when we recrossed the 
 channel in the same sampan. The wind was in our 
 teeth, and it took an hour's laborious rowing and 
 sculling on the part of two men and a boy to get 
 us across. The ricJcsha-iasiTi was again soon in a 
 profoimd sleep, laying in a store of fresh energy for 
 the long run which awaited him. He had thrown 
 off nearly all his clothing, and as he lay at the 
 bottom of the sampan I was interesting myself in 
 studying the very elaborate marks which adorned 
 his naked body. There were illustrations in red 
 and black of birds, fishes, fans, and other objects 
 which the Japanese love to depict, as well as various 
 heraldic devices and symbols. Young and muscular 
 though he was, it was not surprising that he was 
 " dead beat " by the time we arrived at Hu'oshima, 
 as the twenty miles, all but the last one or two, 
 had been covered at a running pace throughout.
 
 190 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 SIIIKOKU. 
 
 Leaving the sliores of Hondo — Impressions — Sir Edwin Arnold's 
 ' Seas and Lands '—Sliikoku— Meaning of the name- 
 Climate — Discomfort — The passage — The Japanese born 
 " salts " — The Mikado and Marquis Ito — Japanese dilatori- 
 ness — Hard upon the Japs — Setting out from Ujina — 
 " First-class " accommodation — Honoured by tlie captain — 
 Typhoon — Novel scene — Close scrutiny — Suspense — Mitsu- 
 ga-hama — The Ishizaki — A miniature railway — Matsu- 
 yama— The castle — The only European in the town — The 
 Wayo-tei — Eeception — Yadoya, Ryori-ya, and Chaya — A 
 geisha party, 
 
 I AM about to bid " Sayondra " for awhile to the 
 shores of the Main Island, and to cross over to a 
 separate quarter of the Empire. How shall I compress 
 into a brief compass those impressions of strangeness 
 and keen interest which have been crowding upon 
 me during the six weeks I have wandered up and 
 down this enchanted country? Sir Edwin Arnold 
 has so beautifully described his own sensations after 
 a few weeks' sojourn in Japan that I am tempted 
 here to have recourse to his eloquent words and to
 
 IMPBESSIONS 191 
 
 quote them as interpreting my own feelings not less 
 faithfully than his own. In his charming volume 
 ' Seas and Lands ' he writes as follows — 
 
 " 1 feel how utterly indescribable it all is, even while trying 
 to describe this unique, unparalleled, unspoiled, astonishing, 
 fascinating, sweet-tempered Japan. After two months spent in 
 their midst, I have to repeat what I ventured to say after two 
 weeks, that nowhere, for the lover of good manners, is there a 
 country so reposeful, so full of antique grace, and soft, fair 
 courtesies as this ' Land of the Rising Sun.' Only go among 
 them with goodwill and sympathy, and — whatever your 
 blunders of deportment and language— you will meet here from 
 all ranks of the people a refinement of politeness and a charm of 
 intercourse nowhere else experienced. I declare I have as yet 
 never seen or heard a Japanese woman do or say anything 
 which fell short of such a high standard of propriety, considera- 
 tion, and savoir-faire as would be expected from a perfect 
 English lady. If you think that is merely my ignorance or 
 precipitancy, let me add that I am ubiquitous, and know by 
 this time something of all classes of native society, and can still 
 decisively recommend Japan to any public man weary with the 
 fuss and flurry of Western life as the softest tonic, the surest 
 restorative, the kindest and brightest panacea for too much 
 thought and too long toil. There is not a man, woman or child 
 within sight who ever heard of the Irish Question — think only 
 of that ! They do not know, or care to know, whence I came, 
 and cannot even pronounce my name, because there is an ' L ' 
 in it. But because I like them they like me, and there are 
 twenty delightful places where I can any day repair at any 
 hour, sit on the soft white floor, sip tea, smoke, listen to the 
 samisen, and hear my broken Japanese put right from the 
 gentlest and kindest of lips and amongst ever-radiant faces. All 
 which, I believe, is called by some the ' heathen East.' "
 
 192 JOUBNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 From Hiroshima I decided to cross over to the 
 Island of Shikoku, of which tourists know very little. 
 Their acquaintance with it is confined to the view 
 which they get of its coast as they pass up or down 
 the Inland Sea. Kyushu in the south, and even 
 Hokkaido (Yeso) in the far north, are better known 
 to European travellers than Shikoku. Except to the 
 natives and a few missionaries, it is almost a terra 
 incognita. And yet it is an island with an area equal 
 to that of Wales. But though it is almost entirely 
 virgin ground as far as the ordinary tourist is con- 
 cerned, it is well worth visiting, and many interesting 
 tours may be made either on foot, hj jinrickisha, or 
 on a pack-horse. The time at my disposal only 
 admitted of my seeing a little of the north-western 
 corner of the island, and I regret that I was not able 
 to penetrate further into the interior. 
 
 The word Shi-koku means "four countries," the 
 island being so called from its consisting of four 
 provinces, Awa, Sanuki, lyo, and Tosa. lyo is the 
 part to which my visit was confined. In ancient 
 times those provinces had somewhat fanciful names, 
 lyo being known as " Lovely Princess," and Tosa as 
 " Brave Youth." Their modern names are more pro- 
 saic, but the charms of Shikoku are probably not 
 fewer now than they were in that distant age.
 
 A COASTING STEAMER 193 
 
 Tlie climate of the island is very mild, the southern 
 province — which is affected by the KurosMo, or Japan 
 Stream — being the only part of the Empire where 
 two crops of rice are produced yearly. The island 
 has several mountain ranges, ranging from 3,000 
 to 4,000 feet in height, and crowned by evergreen 
 forests. 
 
 The passage from Hiroshima to Shikoku in a Japa- 
 nese coasting steamer leaves much to be desired in 
 the way of comfort. But, bad as the accommodation 
 was, I had no right to complain, as I had been well 
 warned what to expect. The arrangements on ship- 
 board are so peculiarly Japanese that only those who 
 have had considerable experience of native ways can 
 get reconciled to them. The Japanese are born 
 " salts." As soon as the children can even toddle, 
 they may be seen a few yards away from land 
 paddling their own wash-tubs. They have the spirit 
 of the seafarer innate in them. That is not to be 
 wondered at when we consider that they are nowhere 
 far from the sea, and that, though the area of the 
 country is only one-tenth larger than that of the 
 British Isles, its coastline is more than double 
 the length of our own. 
 
 There is a frequent service between the Main 
 Island and Shikoku, but punctuality is rarely
 
 194 JOUBNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 observed. I was down at the wharf by 4 p.m., the boat 
 being advertised to start at 4.30, my way being 
 through streams of soldiers and sight-seers and inter- 
 minable lines of the national banner (a red sun on a 
 white background). His Majesty the Mikado, with 
 his great Prime Minister Count (now Marquis) Ito 
 and other grandees, had just passed along the course, 
 amid the acclamations of his loyal and adoring 
 subjects. It was six o'clock before I found myself 
 on board the little steamer, and another hour elapsed 
 before we were off. There is not the same idea of 
 the value of time among the Japanese as among 
 Englishmen. In the country districts, in particular, 
 an hour, more or less, is not of much account. It 
 has been observed that the word tadaima (rendered 
 in the dictionary " immediately," " all in good time ") 
 may mean in the mouth of a Jap any time between 
 now and the new year. Such dilatoriness, however, 
 must be quite exceptional. Upon the whole, for an 
 Eastern people, they are fairly punctual. The advent 
 of railways tends to cause them to set a higher value 
 upon time and to acquire the habit of i)unctuality. 
 The Turkish precept, " Never do anything to-day that 
 you can possibly put off till to-morrow," is certainly 
 not a rule of life in Japan. Though they are both an 
 Asiatic and a squatting race, the Japs and the Turjkf?
 
 JAPANESE DILATORINESS 195 
 
 have little in common. Mr. Boscawen seems to 
 regard dilatoriness as a Japanese characteristic. He 
 writes in the article from which I have already quoted 
 of a visit to a factory, for instance, being interrupted 
 by frequent pauses, during which he was entertaiaed 
 to a smoke and a cup of tea, which, though hospitable 
 and pleasant, was a waste of valuable time. The 
 same characteristic (he says) marked their conduct of 
 the war. After each victory there was an unneces- 
 sary pause : " witness the long delays which occurred 
 between the declaration of war and the battle of Ping; 
 Yang, between the latter and the taking of Port 
 Arthur, and between the taking of Port Arthur and 
 the attack on Wei-hai-Wei. While the Japanese 
 commanders were, so to speak, taking a cup of tea, 
 an European enemy would have out-manoeuvred 
 them." This is, I think, rather hard upon the poor 
 Japs. Certainly, the writer seems to contradict him- 
 self in another part of the article, in which he says 
 that the war was conducted in a business-like style ; 
 but he adds the qualifying clause that he was told by 
 people who had long resided in Japan that it was the 
 only business-like thing they had ever known the 
 Japs do. Their .management of their railways also 
 impressed him rather less favourably than it did my- 
 self. I have already expressed my sincere admiration 
 
 2
 
 196 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 of their management of their railway systems, not- 
 withstanding that I suffered some inconvenience dur- 
 ing the dislocation of the traf&c caused by the return 
 of the troops. Mr. Boscawen, who expected the 
 Japanese with their fifteen years' experience to do as 
 well as the English with their fifty years' experienccj 
 says that their general management would bring 
 discredit on " the South Eastern at its worst." 
 
 But to return from this long digression to the little 
 craft puffing out of Ujina. 
 
 The first class was just tolerable — that is to say, 
 one could move about to some extent, though it had 
 to be done stooping, as the roof was only about five 
 feet high. The occupants of the second and third 
 classes were packed tight almost like sardines. A 
 missionary told me that he had known the first class 
 crammed in the same way. Fortunately it was not 
 so when I was a passenger. I had not been long 
 below deck, comforting myseK with the reflection 
 that things might have been worse — that there was 
 room, at any rate, to move one's limbs, and even to 
 lie down — when the Captain, looking in and spying 
 an Aryan in the midst of the Mongol-Malay mass, 
 beckoned me out and put me in his own cabin — a tiny 
 plain room like a good-sized box, with a port-hole about 
 the size of the pane of a policeman's bull's-eye lamp.
 
 IN TEE INLAND SEA 197 
 
 There was nothing to sit on, but there was the luxury 
 of a carpet. It was an act of gentle courtesy, char- 
 acteristic of Japan, towards the only European on 
 board. When daylight disappeared, a wretched little 
 apology for a lamp was brought in, by the flickering 
 glimmer of which I was able with some difficulty to 
 read. I thought it prudent to remain awake all 
 night, as my extremities were wet from a heavy 
 shower which came on as the passengers were on 
 their way from the booking-office to the boat, and 
 which gave all a good drenching. They had no 
 sooner arrived below deck than many of them doffed 
 some of their clothing, leaving their legs more than 
 usually bare, and several of the ladies had thrown off 
 their ohis and kimonos. 
 
 For the first two hours we glided along pleasantly 
 enough, but the heavy rain which came on later 
 marred to a great extent the charms of the various 
 islets we passed. As it was impossible to remain 
 on deck, I had to drink in the beauty of that part 
 of the Inland Sea through the tiny port-hole. 
 Suddenly the boat began to get a little unsteady, 
 and the wind to rise, though it was never more than 
 a " capful " ; and when, after an hour's sKght 
 pitching and rolling, I found that we had anchored 
 under the shelter of an island, I learnt that there
 
 198 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 was a typhoon raging in the open sea, and that we 
 had gone as far as it was safe to go till the storm 
 subsided. There we remained at our moorings 
 till some time in the morning. Notwithstanding 
 my efforts to keep awake, I had fallen asleep on 
 the floor of my little cabin, and when I awoke, 
 we were again steaming ahead and approaching 
 the other side. Before I had given up my reading 
 in despaii- and thrown myself on the floor, I had 
 taken a stroll round the other parts of the little 
 steamer. The second class presented a strange 
 sight enough ; that of the third was like nothing so 
 much as one's idea of the interior of a slave-dhow, 
 except that in the former there was a little more 
 clothing, and, of course, more cleanliness, with the 
 absence of shackles. Perhaps also there was not 
 quite as much huddling together, there being only 
 one layer of humanity and parts of a second 
 superimposed. All seemed to be in a profound 
 slumber. 
 
 The typhoon from which we had been so well 
 sheltered proved to have been one of exceptional 
 \dolence, and wide-spread damage was done by it 
 in Western Japan, including the wrecking of a 
 train. 
 
 It was 9 A.M. when we arrived at the little port
 
 MITSU-GA-EAMA 199 
 
 of Mitsu-ga-hama, popularly known as Mitsu. 
 Three or four other steamers and a few junks and 
 sampans represented the shipping of the port. The 
 effects of the terrific storm were visible all along 
 the shore. Before we were allowed to land, 
 a searching inquiry was made to see that we had 
 not brought over with us from Hiroshima a case of 
 cholera. My passport was submitted to an unusually 
 protracted scrutiny, and some debate went on among 
 the white-uniformed, immaculately gloved officers. 
 I was wondering what it all meant and what it was 
 coming to, and I was already conjuring up visions 
 of lodgings in a house of detention, or, at least, 
 being shipped back to Hiroshima, as generally the 
 inspection of the passport had been very little more 
 than a formal matter. I was beginning to think 
 that perhaps, after all, the passport did not apply 
 to Shikoku, or that the authorities in the island had 
 not heard of the new regulations governiag pass- 
 ports which had just been issued from Tokyo, when 
 all suspense was put an end to by one of the officers, 
 without a word of comment and with the most 
 engaging politeness, handing back to me the precious 
 document. Everything proved to be all right, and 
 my peace of mind was restored. 
 
 The landlord of the yadoya to which I had decided
 
 200 JOUBNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 to proceed on landing — the Isliizahi — was among 
 the passengers, and had introduced himself to me 
 early in the voyage. Escorted by him, I arrived 
 in a few moments at his house, where I was provided 
 with a breakfast which combined excellence with 
 cheapness, and which was a real restorative to me in 
 my somewhat famished condition. 
 
 Mitsu-ga-hama is the port of Matsuyama — four 
 miles distant — with which it is connected by a 
 miniature railway. The port having few attractions, 
 I took an early train for Matsuyama, a boy from 
 the IshizaJd seeing me off. The fare, second class, 
 was 5 sen, or l^d., according to the then rate of ex- 
 change. It was an interesting ride over a mountain- 
 girt plain. There was frequent service, and the 
 carriages were perfectly comfortable. The locomotive 
 was scarcely as large as the " Eocket," with an 
 American funnel. 
 
 Matsuyama is a large and bustling town, and the 
 capital of the province of lyo. It is dominated by 
 a lofty hill, like an acropolis, crowned by a fine 
 castle, formerly the stronghold of a rich and powerful 
 Daimyo. To no other city is the Japanese word 
 for town — joka — more applicable than it is to 
 Matsuyama, for the literal meaning of joka is 
 " beneath the castle." The castle dates, though not
 
 MATSU7AMA 201 
 
 in its present shape, from the year 1603. It is a 
 typical example of Japanese military architecture, 
 having a keep and outer bastions. During the 
 peaceful period of the Tokugawa Shoguns the feudal 
 lord did not occupy his castle, but lived in a private 
 house down in the town, surrounded by his retainers. 
 When, in consequence of that cataclysm in Japanese 
 politics — the downfall of the feudal system — the 
 castles were taken over by the military department 
 of the State, that of Matsuyama was one of the few 
 set apart as specimens to be preserved, and treated 
 as monuments of historic interest. 
 
 The view from the castle hill is very fine. It 
 takes in a great part of the islet-studded Inland Sea, 
 with countless quaint junks and fishing-boats and 
 sampans dotting its surface, and in the dim distance 
 the coast of Hondo, while the bird's-eye view of the 
 large city at one's feet offers an interesting " study 
 in roofs." 
 
 I was the only Em-opean in Matsuyama at that 
 particular season. I called upon two American 
 missionaries to find them gone to Arima. I had to 
 get along as best I could with my stock of Japanese, 
 as there seemed to be no one in the whole of that 
 large town that could be any help to me. At least, 
 my kuruma-ya, a native of the place, knew of none.
 
 202 JOUBNETS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 I thought that we should probably find at or near 
 the houses of the missionaries the usual native 
 who " knows English," but such was not in evidence. 
 After looking up the missionaries immediately on 
 my arrival and finding them not at home, I was 
 taken by my coolie to the Wayo-tei restaurant — a 
 beautifully fitted-up house of a kind rare out of 
 Tokyo. I was greeted by the entire personnel of 
 the house with the usual prostrations and a chorus 
 of Ohayos, and ide nasai (" Condescend to make 
 your honourable entrance") from the cheery little 
 hostess, and, after doffing my footgear, was con- 
 ducted by a pretty, tripping monsme up a shining 
 stairway of polished cedar and pine into a long 
 airy apartment, exquisitely panelled and matted. 
 In Japan, I may observe here, there are three 
 sorts of houses which accommodate travellers, 
 namely, the yadoya (inn), ryori-ya (restaurant), and 
 clwya (tea-house). The first alone provides sleeping 
 accommodation. The ryori-ya prepares meals with 
 less delay than the yadoya, while the cliaya is a 
 house which only provides light refreshment, such 
 as tea and sweets. Often, however, inns are included 
 under the general denomination of tea-houses. 
 
 While tiffin was being prepared for me at one end 
 of the room, I was invited to join a convivial party
 
 A "GEISHA"' FAETl 203 
 
 at the other end, consisting of four young army 
 officers and three geisha girls. The invitation was 
 urged with such insistence that I had no choice but 
 to submit. One officer came forward after another 
 and would take no refusal, though the first sight 
 of the company disposed me to put as much of the 
 floor between us as possible. I was rather glad 
 than otherwise afterwards that I had yielded to the 
 pressure and joined the circle, as, notwithstanding 
 a number of bottles of wine and saFe lying about, 
 they did not seem to be much under the influence 
 of drink, while I had an opportunity which cost me 
 nothing of being present for the first time at a 
 genuine geisha party.
 
 204 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHAPTEPt XIV. 
 
 SHIKOKU. 
 
 Geisha girls — Grotesque scene — ' Westward to the Far East ' — 
 A diversion — Profession of the geisha — Manners rather 
 than morals — A French testimony — Western luxuries — 
 Quick-witted and stupid — Lavish attention — Excessive 
 heat — Novel fine — Eare luxury — Dogo — A foreigner of 
 importance — The charms of the Inland Sea — Canon Tris- 
 tram's opinion — Ondo and Kure — All but land-locked — 
 Back in Hiroshima — The happiest folk in the world — 
 Missing a train — The philosophical natives— Special privi- 
 lege — A moral — The " korera-hyo " — A railway accident — 
 Fearful scene — The Osaka AsaJii — Criticism of the native 
 Press — A vicious ka — Return to Kobe — Shinomiya — 
 Charms against cholera. 
 
 English travellers generally find themselves at a 
 geisha party almost as soon as they set foot on 
 Japanese soil. It is even planned on board the 
 boat two or three days before they sight the country, 
 if they travel west. Passengers are asked to sub- 
 scribe to a fund for getting up, as soon as they arrive 
 at Tokyo, a native dinner at a high-class restaurant, 
 to the accompaniment of the music and posturing
 
 A GROTESQUE SCENE 205 
 
 (for it is not dancing) of geisha girls, I had not been 
 initiated into that phrase of Japanese life before I 
 found myself suddenly one of such a party at the 
 Wayo-tei, Matsuyama. The girls were very gaudily 
 dressed and had most elaborate coiffures, with 
 unusually big, fantastic kanzdshis, or ornamental 
 pins. Their posturing was graceful, but the 
 monotonous twang of the samisen (guitar) was any- 
 thing but melody to the soul of a European. The 
 musical part of the entertainment was of a sort that 
 no Englishman could properly appreciate. Even 
 the girls (whose faces were pretty enough when in 
 repose) vied with the men in the hideousness of their 
 expression when they attempted to sing. One of the 
 promising youths, apparently, could not scream loud 
 enough, or make " faces " grotesque enough, to 
 please himself, for he seemed to strain himself so 
 much that I had some fears that he would do himself 
 harm. During an interval — though the samisens 
 were never silent — I produced Miss Scidmore's little 
 book ' Westward to the Far East,' the picture of the 
 geisha girl in which sent the company into screams 
 of laughter. One of the officers pointed to one of 
 the girls as bearing a striking resemblance to the 
 sketch, as indeed she did. The other pictures in 
 that charmingly illustrated little hand-book also
 
 20G JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 interested the merry party mightily, and I had to 
 tell them what those sketches were which they were 
 unable to recognise. How long the party lasted I 
 don't know, as I left them when my tiffm was 
 announced as ready, and there seemed no signs of its 
 breading up wlien an hour later, amid a gentle 
 shower of sayonaras, I made my " honourable exit." 
 The profession of the geisha (literally, artiste) is 
 not considered altogether respectable, though I 
 observed nothing " forward " about the three at the 
 Wayo-tei. They did not even share in the boisterous 
 hilarity of their young employers, but sang and 
 played and posed as a serious business. But geishas 
 have the reputation of being frail, as well as fair. 
 Many of them are girls with a past, as well as an 
 ambiguous present. In their system of education 
 manners are said to stand higher than morals. 
 Certainly a great importance is attached to a study 
 of the former. At the geisha-ya, they are trained 
 from early youth, not only in the arts of music and 
 dancing, but in all the etiquette of serving and 
 entertaining guests. As to their mental equipment, 
 I have read in a French paper that " les geishas 
 japonaises, sorte de bayaderes, sent en meme temps 
 les femmes les plus spitituelles et les plus intelli- 
 gentes. Si elles savent se servu- de leurs regards
 
 WE8TEBN LUXUEIES 207 
 
 doux et languissants, elles savent encore davantage 
 lancer des reparties vives et spirituelles et discuter 
 n'importe quelle question philosophique." That is 
 probably an exaggerated estimate of them as a class, 
 though there may be some of them of considerable 
 mental gifts. The same writer adds, as one of the 
 " bizarreries " of Japan, that " chez nous, ce sont les 
 honnetes femmes qui brillent ordinairement par leur 
 intelligence ; au Japon, rintelUgence parait etre 
 I'apanage des femmes menant une vie plus ou moins 
 legere." 
 
 As I was mth much discomfort squatting down in 
 front of the raised lacquered tray which served as a 
 table, and with no little difficulty taking my meal, 
 it dawned upon the little landlady that a chair and a 
 table would be just the things for me, and, motioning 
 to me to follow her, she conducted me to a room 
 below which had not only those two Western luxuries, 
 but sundry others besides. In fact, I found myself, 
 to my agreeable surprise, in a room which, but for 
 the paper slioji, would be entii'ely European. Why 
 she had not thought of it before is one of those things 
 which puzzled me in my dealings with the natives. 
 Though they are undoubtedly a quick-witted race, 
 they sometimes show remarkable stupidity. In this 
 particular case, my hostess may have taken me for
 
 208 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 one of those European residents of the country, who 
 have become so habituated to native ways that they 
 will as soon take a meal on the floor, more Japonico, 
 as in the style of their native land. Perhaps it was 
 not till she observed my painful awkwardness that 
 it occurred to her that I was a stranger to the ways 
 of her country. She had possibly had Europeans at 
 her house with whom it was a matter of indifference 
 as to whether they sat, like a Christian, or squatted, 
 like a Buddhist or a Mohammedan. Once in the 
 semi-European room, I was again at my ease, and 
 had the rare advantage of being fanned while eating 
 by two waiting-maids, assisted at intervals by the 
 hostess, who, seeing that I was covered with 
 perspiration (for we w^ere in the hottest part of 
 Japan), thoughtfully undid my collar, and sent some 
 cooling currents down my chest. (A 2^ropos of the 
 hot weather, I heard that during that summer a large 
 firm in Tokyo fined each one of its cmjiloyes who 
 complained of the heat a sen, because their brothers 
 in Korea had greater heat to endure and bore it 
 patiently. The money went to a fund for the benefit 
 of those who were invalided home from the war.) 
 
 The meal, including the fanning and the share in 
 the geisha entertainment, cost me sevenpence. 
 
 The Wayo-td was a restaurant only. I slept at
 
 AN ANCIENT SPA 209 
 
 an inn some distance away, to wMch I carried an 
 annai-j6 from the Wayo-tei. It was not, however, 
 specially adapted for foreigners. One unusual 
 luxury it boasted, and that was a splendid mosc[uito 
 curtain of muslin, such as I had had at Okayama, 
 against which the vicious little Tea made vain 
 assaults. These nets are made either large enough 
 to cover the ^i(\.Q^i futon and leave a good margin, 
 or just small enough to cover a sleeping baby. In 
 the hot season it is a common thing to see a naked 
 child sleeping on the floor under one of these muslin 
 nets, wliich look for all the world like meat-safes. 
 
 Within a short distance of Matsuyama is a favourite 
 watering-place of the Japanese, namely, Dogo. Next 
 to Kompira, famous for its ancient shrine, it is the 
 most popular resort in Shikoku, and probably the 
 most ancient spa in Japan. Its history extends 
 back to the earliest times, when two gods, by bathing 
 in its waters, gave it vogue. Subsequently five 
 Mikados patronised it, and Dogo became the resort 
 of the great and the noble. It has most elaborate 
 baths, but the supply of water is comparatively small, 
 the flow having been to- some extent interfered with 
 by earthquakes. A speciality of Dogo is a beautiful 
 white faience made at a village a few miles off. 
 
 A few other short excursions were made in north- 
 
 p
 
 210 JOUENEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 western Shikoku, till it was found necessary to 
 return to the Main Island in order to arrive at 
 Yokohama in time to take the home-bound steamer 
 by which my passage had been booked. 
 
 The comforts of the native steamer were not such 
 as to tempt me to travel in her all the way to Kobe, 
 as might have been done. So when I returned 
 again to the little port of Mitsu-ga-hama, I felt that 
 a passage back to Hiroshima would be a sufficient 
 experience of life on board a Japanese coaster. 
 
 I was taking my time over my breakfast at the 
 Ishizaki when I was told that the steamer was 
 about to start. Hurrying off, accompanied by the 
 landlord and two or three others, I found on arriving 
 at the wharf that the little craft was waiting for me, 
 a messenger having, unknown to me, gone in advance 
 to say that an important foreign personage was coming 
 across. A sampan was in waiting at the shore to 
 take me on to the steamer, which had already slipped 
 her cables. Arrived on deck, still accompanied (or 
 rather, I ought to say, attended) by the people from 
 the inn, I was received with the ceremony befitting 
 my supposed importance, and after wishing my 
 Shikoku friends sayondra with evident regret on 
 their side as well as my own, I set myself down to 
 another passage across the far-famed channel. The
 
 THE INLAND SEA 211 
 
 fare "was thirty-five sen, second class. It was not of 
 much consequence which class I booked going back, 
 as the passage was to be entirely by day, and, as it 
 was beautifully jfine, there would be no occasion to 
 go below deck. As it happened, that particular boat 
 did not carry first-class passengers. We threaded 
 our way between islands, the channel narrowing in 
 some parts to about a hundred yards, and we were 
 constantly hailing villagers and half-naked brown- 
 skinned watermen along the shore. One quaint little 
 village, situated on the coast, seemed to have all its 
 inhabitants at their doors greeting us as we passed. 
 The charms of the Inland Sea baffle description. At 
 ever turn of the bow I was fascinated by some new 
 picture. It appears that there are some people who 
 have been disappointed in the Inland Sea, just as 
 there are some who thought Niagara a " fraud." I 
 don't know what such peculiar people went out to 
 see, but, for my part, I agree entirely with Canon 
 Tristram, who believes it to be " for beauty and 
 loveliness, absolutely without a rival in the world. I 
 do not say this hastily (continues the same writer), 
 for I had the good fortune to make the voyage three 
 times — twice from south to north, and once the 
 return voyage — and these were]so timed that on one 
 or other occasion I have traversed every mile of that 
 
 p 2
 
 212 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 fairy sea in full sunlight. Let tlie traveller recall 
 the finest bits of coast scenery he can recollect — the 
 Bay of Naples in spring, Wemyss Bay on a summer's 
 morning, a trip round the Isle of Wight, threading 
 the islands of Denmark's Sounds, the luxuriance of 
 the Sumatran coast, the windings of the coral islets 
 of Bermuda — recall whichever of them you please, 
 wait but an hour or two, and you will match it in 
 the Inland Sea." I saw very little of it compared 
 with Canon Tristram, but I crossed it twice at one of 
 its most lovely parts, and, having seen some of the 
 finest coast sceneries of the world, I do not hesitate 
 to say that, as far as my knowledge goes, the Inland 
 Sea stands alone. 
 
 We stopped at two villages — Ondo and Kure — 
 to pick up passengers, and to land and take on 
 mail-bags. The shore near the former was lined 
 with sampans. Off the latter was a fine Japanese 
 ironclad and two large merchant steamers. I after- 
 wards found that it was an important naval station. 
 Near it is the island of Etajima, on which is situated 
 the Imperial Naval College, containing a large number 
 of cadets. More than once I found myself surrounded 
 by land, with apparently no possible way of getting 
 out. When I was satisfied in my own mind that we 
 were completely land-locked, and there was not the
 
 THE HAPPIEST FOLK IN THE WORLD 218 
 
 shadow of a doubt about it, an extraordinarily narrow 
 passage would begin to appear, through which the 
 little steamer had to proceed with the utmost wari- 
 ness to avoid disaster. We arrived at Ujina much 
 earlier than I expected. The passage, notwithstand- 
 ing the poor accommodation, had been so replete 
 with interest that the time had passed away all too 
 quickly. Hiroshima presented the same gay appear- 
 ance as when I passed through on my journey out. 
 The road leading from the port was thronged with 
 the cheery, chattering and friendly little folk I had 
 known all my life on fans and screens and lacquered 
 tea-trays. Mingled with the military, they seemed 
 the most good-tempered little people in the world. 
 It was with difficulty that my rickisha-Ynwn succeeded 
 in trundling his machine through without falling 
 foul of one of the merry throng. 
 
 The following morning I was at the station by ten, 
 intending to take the only train that ran through to 
 Kobe in a day, which was timed to leave at 10.30. 
 In England, if you are at a station half an hour 
 before time, you feel pretty sure of your train. Not 
 so, however, in the Far East. I found the approach 
 to the booking-office thronged with people. I duly 
 placed myself at the tail end of a Line of natives 
 waiting to be booked, some thirty yards long. At
 
 214 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 10.15 the booking began, and when I was within a 
 few feet of the booking place, I had the mortification 
 of hearing it closed, and, a moment later, of seeing 
 the train start. Though by this time I had a score 
 of others to the rear of me, I was probably the only 
 one of those left behind that was particularly put 
 out by the occurrence. The rest seemed to take it 
 with the greatest unconcern, and dispersed without 
 a murmur, some to the waiting-room to gossip and 
 read their NicM Nichi Shimbun ("Daily News"), 
 and others to a tea-house over the way, to while 
 away as best they could the three hours' interval 
 before the next train, trusting to better luck next 
 time. Time was no object with them. As for 
 myself, I cannot say that I was quite as philosophi- 
 cal under it all, and I was, I fear, more forcible than 
 polite in my speech to the clerk when I managed to 
 get at him. But my wrath was partially appeased 
 when I understood from him that if he had known that 
 there was an English gentleman in the line, and that 
 he was bound through for Kobe, he would have booked 
 him at once. Then I remembered that my ricJcisha- 
 man, when he l^rought me up to the station, seemed 
 inclined to take me into the booking-ofl&ce, regardless 
 of the long array of people stretching out beyond the 
 precincts of the station, when I paid him off : ] '
 
 A RAILWAY ACCIDENT 215 
 
 took my place, as the last amval, at the tail end to 
 await my turn. I could not see that I had any 
 right to be booked before others ^Yho were there 
 before me, and I did not wish to take advantage of 
 the kind and courteous natui'e of the people among 
 whom I found myself ; but it turned out that I had 
 some sort of a right, and that it was recognised by 
 the officials. I mention the incident for the warn- 
 ing of any of my readers who may find themselves 
 similarly situated in Japan. The moral of it is, that 
 if you are at a railway station in a crowd, even half 
 an hour before your train, and are backward in going 
 forward to be booked, you will be left behind, as I 
 was left before. 
 
 The next train left at 1.30, and I was glad to get 
 away by it and out of the atmosphere of Hiroshima, 
 where the word " horcra-hjo " (cholera) constantly 
 fell upon my ears, though the train only took me as 
 far as Okayama, which was reached at 8.30. As we 
 approached Onomichi we came upon a scene almost 
 without a parallel in England — netted with railways 
 as it is — in the annals of its railway accidents. It 
 was the wreck of a train which had been hurled over 
 an embankment into the sea a short time before. 
 The train was a special one despatched from Hiro- 
 shima with nearly four hundred sick and wounded
 
 216 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 soldiers. Near a village called Kihara, a few miles 
 from Onomichi, the ballast of an embankment which 
 ran along the shore had been washed away by the 
 typhoon. Of twenty-three cars and two locomotives 
 (one in front and the other in the rear) forming the 
 train, the front engine and twelve cars rushed over 
 the embankment and into the surf. It was one 
 o'clock in the morning and very dark. Five carriages 
 were smashed to pieces. The locomotive disap- 
 X)eared in the sand, the driver and stoker going with 
 it. The killed and injured exceeded a hundred. As 
 our train approached the spot, I noticed an unusual 
 excitement among the passengers. I thought at first 
 that it was caused by our approaching a tunnel, but 
 there was no general closing of windows, which the 
 Japanese are so particular about doing. At last they 
 all made a rush for the side of the carriage nearest 
 the sea. Just as it was dawning upon me that a 
 railway accident had occurred, we came in full sight 
 of the wreckage. It was a fearful scene, but we saw 
 it but a few moments, as our train passed slowly 
 along and did not stop, the lino having been tempo- 
 rarily repaired. I looked in vain for a locomotive, or 
 the remains of one, and did not know till I arrived 
 at Kobe the following morning that it had gone 
 clean out of sight in the sand. The injured were
 
 (JRITICIBM OF THE NATIVE PRESS 217 
 
 being cared for at Itozaki, where a surgeon-general 
 and other doctors, together with a staff of nurses, 
 from Hiroshima were in attendance. I read with 
 much interest what a Japanese paper {Osaka Asahi) 
 had to say two days later in a leader on the catas- 
 trophe. Jt pointed out that people who had dis- 
 charged the duties of soldiers, and had fought 
 bravely for their country, and had returned home in 
 consequence of wounds or sickness, were entitled to 
 the greatest honour. Such people were their country's 
 treasure, rare treasure. It went on to say that many 
 treasures were lost in the sea, many a soldier of 
 honour was buried in the waters. It was a great 
 misfortune to the State, and a grreat loss to the 
 nation. One could scarcely bear to imagine the 
 condition of their parents, brothers, wives, children, 
 and friends, who had eagerly awaited their return 
 from the scene of war, upon the news of the disaster 
 reaching them. Surviving the dangers from weapons 
 of war to which they were ready to sacrifice their 
 lives, they had been lost by that accident. It was a 
 matter of extreme sadness. Typhoons and storms 
 are certain to come once or more in a year, and 
 husbandmen prepare themselves for such calamities. 
 Examples were not wanting of railways having 
 sustained damage from typhoons. The locality
 
 218 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 where the accident took place that time was near the 
 sea. In constructing a railway in such a district 
 every precaution should have been taken. The line 
 should have been specially strong and solid, so as to 
 preclude as far as possible any such calamity. The 
 journal was forced to conclude that the construction 
 of the line was defective. If it was impossible to 
 resist the \vind and the waves, why was the coast 
 line preferred to other routes? The approach of 
 storms is indicated, and officers of the company 
 ought to have been sent to make provision for 
 possible danger. The writer of the article could not 
 believe that the accident was due to natural causes, 
 pure and simple, and contended that the Sanyo 
 Eailway Company should be held responsible for it. 
 However, it had often been the habit of private rail- 
 way concerns to forget that their enterprise was of a 
 public nature, and they had subordinated questions 
 of improvement to the immediate demand for profits 
 and larger rates of dividend. 
 
 Other Japanese papers were equally unsparing in 
 their criticism of the railway company, but it was by 
 no means certain that the company was in any way 
 responsible for the disaster. The Government Eail- 
 way Inspector (Mr. Haraguchi), who was almost 
 immediately upon the spot, was said to absolve the
 
 VICIOUS MOSQUITOES 219 
 
 Sanyo line of all blame, but the inquiry was 
 proceeding when I left the country. This was the 
 first railway accident of any importance that had 
 taken place in Japan. Certainly, the country cannot 
 boast a large mileage just yet, but the manner in 
 which the Japanese have worked the half a dozen 
 railway systems which they have got has earned the 
 admiration of Europeans generally. 
 
 It was three o'clock the following morning before 
 I had a train to take me on from Okayama to my 
 destination. The long interval was spent in the 
 waiting-room, in which were several other East-bound 
 passengers. I tried to sleep, but in vain — the 
 mosquitoes of Okayama are specially vicious and 
 bloodthirsty. The stationmaster offered me a cover- 
 ing that would have been proof even against the 
 proboscis of the ka, but as I could only use it at the 
 risk of being smothered, I had no alternative but to 
 remain exposed to the stings of my tormentors. It 
 was a great relief when, as the day broke, I found 
 myself ensconced in the corner of a comfortable 
 railway carriage. In six hours I arrived, more 
 asleep than awake, at Kobe, where the one absorbing 
 topic of talk was the terrible accident. Friends who 
 knew that I was somewhere on the road were 
 relieved to find that I was not in it, as the fact that
 
 220 JOURNEYS AMONG TIIE QENTLE JAPS 
 
 it was an exclusively military train was not then 
 known. Again, I was the recipient of unbounded 
 hospitality at the " Firs," Slmiomiya. The pleasure 
 of finding myself once more surrounded by Western 
 comforts would have been complete but for the con- 
 sciousness that in a native house a few yards off was 
 a case of cholera. 
 
 Up to that date, however, the pestilence had not 
 claimed a single European victim, and even among 
 the natives its ravages had been almost confined to the 
 poor and ill-fed. Among the more intelligent there 
 was a general belief in the scientific treatment of the 
 malady, but the mass of the people stUl put their 
 faith in the charmed paper which they bought from 
 the priests at the temples, or in the picture of Buddha 
 which they swallowed.
 
 C 221 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE XV. 
 
 THE EETUKN. 
 
 Preparing to return — Nagoya — An unpleasant prospect — The 
 Castle — An interesting vicissitude — Potteries — Strange' spec- 
 tacle — Cloisonne — Process described — Fuji-San — Leave- 
 takings — A pleasing discover}' — " Sayonara " to Nippon — 
 The Empress of Japan — Prince Pak of Korea — Story of a 
 royal refugee — Letter from the Prince — A Norman count — 
 A Japanese surgeon — "How we took Port Arthur" — 
 Beguiling the tedium of the voyage — Enveloped in smoke 
 — False report — Hurrying home — Arrival. 
 
 My time in Japan was now drawing to a close. It 
 had been my intention to take the Empress of Japan 
 — in which I was to cross the Pacific — at Kobe, but 
 I found that the time which woukl be allowed for 
 landing at Yokohama would not be sufficient for 
 certain business yet to be done there and at the 
 capital, and so the long and tedious journey along 
 the whole length of .the Tokaido had again to be 
 undertaken. I was able, however, to make a " stop- 
 over" of one night at Nagoya, which I had passed 
 through on my journey west. It was a seemingly
 
 222 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 interminable kuruma ride from the station to the 
 house of the Eev. J. M. Baldwin, to whom I was the 
 bearer of a letter of introduction, but who turned 
 out to be from home on a holiday at Gotemba, at 
 the foot of Fuji. I was faced by the impleasant 
 prospect of having to fall back upon a notorious, 
 rat-infested, so-called European inn, which I had 
 been advised to avoid, but as the coolie was turning 
 away with me, it occurred to ]\Ir. Baldwin's native 
 caretaker to conduct us some distance away to a 
 countryman of Mr. Baldwin — the Eev. H. J. Hamilton 
 — both of whom were members of the Canadian 
 Wyckliffe Mission. Mr. Hamilton received me most 
 cordially. His house — half native, half American — 
 was comfort itself. 
 
 Xagoya is one of the most flourishing cities of the 
 Empire, being the largest on the Tokaido. The 
 Castle (SJiiro), which dates from the year 1610, and 
 was erected by twenty powerful daimyos as a 
 residence for leyasu's son, is one of the wonders of 
 the country. Though it has suffered much in the 
 past at the hands of vandals, it is now carefully 
 preserved by the Imperial authorities as a monu- 
 ment of historic interest. I had to be content with 
 an exterior view only, as I was not provided with a 
 permit, which can only be obtained at the prefecture,
 
 NAG OTA 223 
 
 or Government office. Conspicuous by its glitter on 
 the keep are two golden dolphins, dating from the 
 erection of the castle, one of which has had an 
 interesting vicissitude. It was sent to the Vienna 
 Exhibition of 1873, and on its way back was 
 wrecked in the Mcssagcries Maritimes steamer Nil. 
 It was recovered with much difficulty, and restored 
 to its former position amid the rejoicings of the 
 people. 
 
 Before quitting the city the following morning, I 
 was taken to see some potteries, Nagoya being noted 
 for its manufacture of porcelain. The obliging 
 manager was at infinite pains to make every process 
 as plain as it could be made to an untutored mind. 
 The workroom was a strange sight — the men who 
 moulded the clay were in almost complete undress, a 
 narrow strip of loin-cloth being the only covering. 
 A visit was also made to a cloisonne factory, Avhich 
 turns out work which is the admiration of the 
 "Western world. Here again a foreman explained to 
 us the very complicated process of manufacture, but 
 I fear that his explanation, lucid enough to my 
 companion, who knew Japanese, was thro^vn away 
 as far as I was concerned. Those of my readers 
 who may wish to have some idea how that beautiful 
 work is produced will be glad to have Mr. Henry
 
 224 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 Norman's description, than which nothing could 
 be clearer. 
 
 " First the plain copper vase or bowl or tray is taken between 
 the knees of the workman, who snips off bits of brass the six- 
 teenth of an inch wide from a long roll before him, bends them 
 Avith tweezers and glues them on edge to the copper, thus 
 making the outlines and detail lines of the finished sketch lying 
 before him. An apprentice is putting the simple pattern in this 
 way upon the flat bottom of a tray, while the most skilful 
 workmen is poring over the delicate lines of the eyes and 
 feathers of a cock on a plaque. This outline is next passed to a 
 table between two workmen, who fill up the interstices with 
 enamel, still folio-wing the coloured original before them from 
 fifty little cu]5S of coloured pigments. Then the work is fired, 
 again painted with enamels, again fired, and so on, till little is 
 seen but a daub-like distant copy. This is then polished down 
 with the greatest care imtil the shining edge of the brass strips 
 is reached, and at precisely the same point the colours are a 
 perfect copy of the painting. Cloisonne making is labour of 
 the most minute kind added to exquisite skill in the handling 
 and combining of pigments. The result in its highest form is a 
 painting more delicate than water-colours, and more lasting 
 than brass. Formerly only geometrical and decorative designs 
 were thus made ; now birds and fish and snow scenes have been 
 reached." * 
 
 Leaving Nagoya at 11.30 in the morning, I 
 reached Yokohama a little before midnight. Fuji- 
 San was invisible. Thick clouds covered its majestic 
 cone from base to summit. Travellers, when quitting 
 
 * ' The Real Japan,' by Henry Norman.
 
 PRINCE PAK OF KOREA 225 
 
 the shores of Japan, gaze in the direction of Fuji for 
 a final view of the " Peerless Mountain," with the 
 same instinct and the same affection as they look 
 towards the shore for a last fond glimpse of a 
 beloved friend, but a vision of it is not always 
 possible. The two days after my return to Yokohama 
 were occupied mainly in leave-takings there and at 
 the capital. I had not been many days on those 
 hospitable shores before I had made troops of new 
 friends, who took no little interest in my expeditions 
 to distant parts of the Empire, and who expected 
 me to report myself immediately on my return. On 
 the eve of my coming away I discovered in cos- 
 mopolitan Yokohama the son of a dear old tutor of 
 mine — Eev. Chancellor Lias of Llandaff — at whose 
 rooms one of the most pleasant of my evenings in 
 Japan was spent. On the morrow, after a final 
 round of the curio shops in the Benten-dori and the 
 Honcho-dori, I embarked on the impress of Japan 
 for Vancouver. Among the passengers who had 
 preceded me on board was a young Korean prince, 
 Yong Ho Pak by name, a refugee from his distracted 
 country. His Christian friends in Yokohama had 
 told me of him, and asked me to take a kindly 
 interest in him, and to render him every assistance 
 in my power. That, I need hardly say, I had great
 
 226 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 pleasure in doing. The dapper little man in 
 European garb, with pronounced Korean features, 
 who was addressed on board as "Your Highness," 
 proved to be a well-known personality to those 
 among the passengers who knew the Far East, 
 having, though still young, played a great role in 
 the government of his country. Unfortunately, 
 his knowledge of English was very limited. A 
 Victoria paper {Daily Colonist), in announcing our 
 arrival at that port, gave the following account 
 of him : — 
 
 " Prince Pak-Yong-Ho, Japan's firmest friend at the Korean 
 Court, Avho was forced to fly from Seoul a short time ago, 
 owing to the unexpected turn of the wheel in that much-dis- 
 turbed city, reached Victoria by the Empress of Japan, and 
 l^roceeds through to New York by to-day's express. , What his 
 plans are he cannot himself explain in detail — the business of 
 the moment is to find a haven beyond the reach of the indignant 
 Queen,* and such a shelter he believes America will aftbrd. 
 Troubles have come upon him in clouds during the past event- 
 ful year, and perfect rest, undisturbed by dreams of the 
 assassin's dagger, has now an incomparable charm for the fallen 
 minister. To but one of the many charges of his enemies does 
 he enter a vigorous denial — he was not planning, nor had he 
 ever contemplated, the centralization of the government of the 
 Hermit Kingdom in himself, and so was not guilty of treason to 
 his coimtry and his Queen. 
 
 "It was during a ten years' enforced residence in Japan that 
 
 * Since assassinated.
 
 THE STORT OF A ROYAL REFUGEE 227 
 
 Prince Pak of Korea became a lover of the Japanese, their 
 progressive government and their modern institutions ; and it 
 was this fondness for all things Japanese that got him into 
 trouble on his coming out of exile to assume the duties of Home 
 Minister at his native capital. Everything ran smoothly for a 
 time, and reforms having their origin in Japan were introduced 
 in quick succession. Then it was whispered into the ear of the 
 Queen that Pak was not disinterested — that, with Japan's aid, 
 he might even raise his eyes to the throne — and the prince's 
 fate was sealed. 
 
 "Then the report was freely circulated that Pak-Yong-Ho 
 had been laying a trap for Russia in the interest of Japan, the 
 Queen having only admiration for the land of the Czars and 
 hatred and contempt for the New Japan. So Pak stock declined 
 several points, and the Queen again securing the reins of 
 government immediately decided upon a policy essentially pro- 
 Russian and anti-Japanese, in which the Home JMinister could 
 have no part. For diplomacy's sake he made pretence of 
 roundly abusing the Japanese, and made certain overtures of 
 friendship to M. Waeber, the Russian Charge d'Aifaires. The 
 latter was well prepared, however, and avoided what he and all 
 others in Seoul took to be a Japanese trap. 
 
 " Concerning the subsequent crisis at Seoul, in which, though 
 absent in person, Prince Pak plaj^ed so prominent a part, the 
 Kobe Chronicle of the 12th July has the following : — 
 
 " ' In pointing out in our issue of the 8th inst. the serious 
 position of affairs in Korea, and the possibility that a spark in 
 that quarter might again set the Far East in a blaze, we little 
 thought that events were then actually occurring at Seoul 
 proving the accuracy of oiu" reading of the signs. The QueeJi 
 has thrown off the mask ; ' the Ming party is for the time 
 triumphant ; and all officials in favour of Japan are in danger 
 of arrest. On Saturday night a meeting of ministers was 
 hurriedly convoked at the royal palace, all the ministers but 
 Prince Pak and Jo Kohan being present. There it was deter- 
 
 Q 2
 
 228 JOUPiNEYB AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 mined that Prince Pak should be relieved of office, and his 
 arrest was also ordered on a charge of treason. Prince Pak, 
 however, api:)ears to have got wind of the combination against 
 him, and inmiediately fled from the capital to Chemulpo, which 
 he reached on Sunday evening, taking refuge in a Japanese 
 house there. It was expected that he would leave Chenudpo for 
 Japan the same night. It is charged against Prince Pak by the 
 Ming party that evidence has come to light showing that he 
 was meditating a couj) d'etat with the object of seizing the reins 
 of power, but as he was a minister, and already possessed almost 
 supreme influence, the accusation is not likely to prove founded 
 on truth.'i" 
 
 Such was the interesting charge entrusted to me 
 at Yokohama. He soon made himself at home on 
 board, entered freely into the games, and though he 
 associated chiefly with the Japanese merchants, 
 whose language he seemed to know perfectly, he 
 made a few friends among my own countrymen, 
 notwithstanding his very broken English. He is 
 young (about tliirty-eight), and may yet be the chief 
 force in Korean politics. Shortly after my return 
 home I received from him a letter, dated from the 
 Korean Legation at Washington, in the course of 
 wliicli he said : — 
 
 " I hope I may be in the near future able to visit Great 
 Britain and the continental countries. If I should go, I will 
 certainly inform you of my departure from New York before- 
 hand. Eecently another revolt has occurred in Korea, and it
 
 A NOBMAN COUNT 229 
 
 looks as though the Government has been changed since the last 
 week or so. The reports are yet meagre, and I cannot form any 
 definite opinion as to the future outlook for Korea. May God 
 bless them and give them peace. I hope you will remember 
 Korea and her poor suffering people in your prayers, and tell 
 your Christian friends to take an interest in her. My hope and 
 prayers are that some day Korea may worship the name of 
 Jesus as her Lord and Saviour. 
 
 " I am trying hard to learn English, yet I am sorry to say 
 that I have not made much progress so far. I am living in 
 Washington at present." 
 
 Another "personage" among the passengers was 
 Count Henry de la Vaulx, of Normandy, who 
 was making the " gi'and tour," and whose forte was 
 French colonisation. He had been going the round 
 of the French colonies and protectorates of Cambodia, 
 Cochin-China, and Tonkin. He was always ready 
 to be drawn out on his favourite topic, and I had 
 more than one discussion with him on the subject of 
 the Frenchman versus the Englishman as a coloniser, 
 but the Count knew no English and my French was 
 not of the best. Like his countrymen generally, he 
 felt sore on the subject of Egypt, and every argu- 
 ment in favour of the English view only met with a 
 shrug of the shoulders. 
 
 Another interesting saloon passenger was a 
 Japanese army surgeon, who was proceeding to 
 qualify in London. He spoke English very well.
 
 230 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 told us all about the war, and " how we took Port 
 Arthur." 
 
 Thus was the tedium of my second trans-Pacific 
 voyage beguiled. Everything favoured a pleasant 
 passage — a few interesting fellow-passengers (not 
 always to be met with on an ocean voyage), a ship of 
 unsurpassed comfort, and, above all, most propitious 
 weather and an unruffled sea. The only circum- 
 stance that detracted from the entire enjoyment of 
 the passage, was that, as we approached our desti- 
 nation, we found ourselves enveloped by the smoke 
 of a burning forest, which is so apt to impede the 
 navigation in the Gulf of Georgia, and which hangs 
 about in that region for days after the fire has burnt 
 itself out. Our arrival was delayed by it about 
 twenty-four hours, and the rumour reached Vancouver 
 that we had gone on the rocks. No risk, however, 
 was run — the JEJmjyress too cautiously felt her way to 
 come to grief, till a breeze suddenly arose and in a 
 few moments cleared off the smoke, and Moimt 
 Eaker in all his magnificence stood forth to our view. 
 We were welcomed by practically the whole town of 
 Vancouver, which takes a special pride in its great 
 White Liners. There I took my leave of my precious 
 royal charge, who was to proceed to Washington by 
 way of San Francisco, and, transferring him to other
 
 METURN HOME 231 
 
 hands, took the first train for Montreal, and the first 
 boat thence home — thoroughly " done up," of course, 
 but full of pleasant memories, never to pass away, 
 of the journey, and especially of the far-distant, 
 delightful, fascinating, and picturesque land through 
 which I had wandered.
 
 232 JOURNEYS AMONG TSE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 CHArTER XVI. 
 
 THE KELIGIONS OF JAPAN. 
 
 Shinto — Buddhism — Christianity. 
 
 As the subject of the religions of Japan was one in 
 which I was specially interested during my tour, 
 and as it is one that I have been much questioned 
 about since my return, I propose to treat briefly of 
 each of them in this chapter, concluding with a few 
 facts with regard to Christianity in that country. 
 
 There are two heathen religions in Japan, Shinto 
 and Buddhism. Shinto is a Chinese word, meaning 
 the "Way of the Gods," the Japanese term being 
 Kami no micJii. It is the indigenous creed of the 
 country, and is a compound of nature-worship and 
 ancestor-worship. It has countless deities (the 
 Japanese say "eight millions," that is, an infinite 
 number), the chief being Ama-terasu, the goddess of 
 the sun, from whom is descended the Mikado. There 
 are gods and goddesses of the wind, the ocean, fire, 
 thunder and lightning, as well as of mountains,
 
 SHINTO 233 
 
 rivers, etc. New names are constantly being added 
 to the pantheon, heroes and great men being deified 
 without number. 
 
 The Shinto priests do not differ in appearance 
 from laymen, but wear a long robe when present- 
 ing the daily sacrifices. Some temples have their 
 priestesses, young girls whose duties consist in 
 performing certain pantomimic dances. Neither 
 they nor the priests are under vows. They marry 
 and are given in marriage. There is no congrega- 
 tional worship, properly so called, but the services 
 consist in the presentation of offerings of rice, fish, 
 fruits, and so on, and in the recital of certain 
 formulas which are a mixture of prayer and praise, 
 but which are quite unintelligible to the people. 
 Shinto demands little more of its devotees than a 
 visit to the local temple on the occasion of its annual 
 festival. It has no ethical or doctrinal code. It 
 recognises life beyond the grave, but knows no hell 
 or purgatory. It has no teachings concerning a 
 future state. " Thou shalt honour the gods," " Thou 
 shalt obey the Mikado," are practically the only 
 commandments of Shinto. 
 
 To one who inquired of a Shintoist why his creed 
 had no moral code, the reply was, " In China they 
 truly did invent a moral system, for those wicked
 
 234 JOUENETS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 men needed it; in Japan wo naturally follow the 
 way of the gods." 
 
 Throughout the IMiddle Ages there was a form of 
 Shinto known as Eyobu Shinto, being the original 
 creed corrupted by contact with Buddhism. For a 
 thousand years most of the Shinto temples were 
 served by Buddliist priests, and their architecture 
 affected by Buddhist (or Indian) principles. The 
 original pure and simple style gave way to an 
 elaborate and ornate one. The pagoda, a Buddhist 
 feature, became part of Shinto shrines. At the 
 revolution of 1868, which restored the Mikado to his 
 ancestral position as the real as well as the nominal 
 ruler of the Empire, Shinto was purged of its 
 Buddhistic accretions, and re-established as the 
 national religion. Buddhist priests were ejected 
 from the Shinto shrines, and pagodas, belfries, and 
 such other features as did not belong to the original 
 Shinto architecture were removed. Many of the 
 temples were thus despoiled of much of theii" beauty. 
 
 The great characteristic of pure Shinto architecture 
 is its simplicity. The temples consist of bare, un- 
 painted, wooden rooms, covered with a thatch of 
 chamsecyparis bark. There is no altar, idol, or 
 ornament. The great symbol of the temple is the 
 peculiar gateway called torii, which is placed at the
 
 BUDDHISM 235 
 
 entrance of the temple avenue. It is also known as 
 "bird's rest," as the sacred birds were accustomed 
 to perch on it. Some of the most important temples 
 have several of these gateways. Their origin and 
 signification are alike unknown. 
 
 For every one Shkito temple at Tokyo there are 
 nine Buddhist. Su- E. Satow, our minister at Tokyo 
 and the greatest authority on the subject, writes that 
 "Buddhism, during the last ten years, has been 
 steadily regaining power and position, while the 
 Shinto religion, for the protection of which a govern- 
 ment department, ranking with the Council of State, 
 was thought necessary at the Eevolution, has relapsed 
 into its former insignificance. It is still in a certain 
 sense a national religion, since its temples are main- 
 tained out of the imperial and local revenues, and 
 the attendance of the principal officials is required 
 by Court etiquette at certain annual festivals cele- 
 brated at the palace. But it has no exclusive hold 
 over any section of the people, who adhere to it just 
 in the same degree, and no more, as has been their 
 practice during the last thousand years." 
 
 Buddhism was imported into Japan from India, 
 by way of China and Korea, in the sixth century, a.d. 
 It soon supplanted Shinto, and became the popular 
 religion, being adopted even by the Mikados, lineal
 
 236 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 descendants of the Shinto goddess of the sun. In 
 the ninth century it made rapid progress under the 
 teaching of Kobo Daishi, its greatest saint and 
 apostle, who had spent some time in China studying 
 its tenets. He is credited with the invention of the 
 Hircujana syllabary, and has thus been the chief 
 means of disseminating the Buddhist scriptures 
 throughout Japan. He taught that the native 
 Shinto deities were avatars, or incarnations, of 
 Buddhist deities, and thus made it possible for those 
 Shintoists who became converts to the imported 
 religion to preserve to some extent their ancient 
 faith. 
 
 Japanese Buddhism is split up into various sects 
 and sub-sects, of which the chief are the Tendai and 
 the Shingon (which are of Chinese origin), the Jodo, 
 Nichircn, and Shin. They hold widely different 
 views upon the doctrine of Mrvana, some believing 
 in the utter annihilation of the soul, others in its 
 separate existence, but as part of the divine. But, 
 according to Sir E. Satow, the points in dispute 
 between them are highly metaphysical, the principles 
 of one sect being considered incomprehensible except 
 to such as have attained to Buddhahood. 
 
 The Shin sect has been called the Protestantism of 
 Japan, because its priests are permitted to marry, and
 
 INDIFFEBENTISM 237 
 
 because its distinctive doctrine is that man is to be 
 saved by faith in Amida, and not by works, or vain 
 repetition of prayers. It is the most important sect 
 in Japan, both from the number of its devotees, and 
 its hold upon the ruling classes. Its founder, Sliinran 
 Shonin, has been honoured during the present reign 
 by the bestowal of a posthumous title which means 
 " the Great Teacher who sees the truth." The fine 
 temples of the Shin sect are among the chief sights 
 of the large cities of the Empire. 
 
 But though Japan is studded with temples, the 
 Japanese are not a strongly religious people. Their 
 attitude towards the supernatural has been described 
 as a mixture of " fear and fun." Great numbers of 
 them are indifferentists — so much so that the question 
 has recently been discussed : Have the Japanese a 
 religion ? And the answer given by a missionary of 
 the American Church in Japan is that " the Japanese 
 come as near to being a nation of atheists as any 
 people upon the planet." According to that authority 
 (Eev. Henry Scott Jefferys), they have no god what- 
 ever in the Christian sense, or in the sense of the 
 ancient European mythologies. Shinto is not really 
 a religion, but a system of ceremonial observances 
 centring in the Mikado. So far as can be made out, 
 Shintoists do not pray for any definite thing at their
 
 238 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 shrines. They indulge in " vain repetitions," but a 
 distinct petition there is none. Educated Japanese 
 pride themselves upon their superiority to supersti- 
 tion, and recognise no god above the Mikado. But 
 even he is not a god in the Christian sense, though 
 he is known as Ten Shi Sama, or the Son of Heaven, 
 and his palace is called Miya, or Temple. He, in his 
 turn, has no object of worship except his ancestry. 
 In that respect he differs from the Emperor of China, 
 who worships Shang Ti, the Lord of Heaven. 
 
 The same may be said of Buddhism — the cult of 
 the middle and lower class — as of Shinto — it has no 
 god in the Chiistian sense. Buddha is not a God, 
 and Buddhism is not a religion, as we understand it. 
 
 '• Japanese exalt politeness and reverence above all things, 
 and it seems but natui'al to a people in the habit of hitting their 
 heads twice or thrice upon the straw mats every time a visitor 
 of their own rank comes to call upon them, to continue to 
 reverence their friends, relatives, parents, and rulers after their 
 departure into the great vmknown beyond ; this looks to us like 
 worship, but it is often nothing more than post-mortem polite- 
 ness. Japanese near the Treaty Ports, out of consideration for 
 their foreign friends, may concede the existence of the foreign 
 god, \)ut in the back country the ideas fade away, and they 
 worship ' they know not what ' ; but they certainly do not 
 worshi]3 in our religious sense, for they have no god." * 
 
 " The fact remains," writes Miss Bird, " that thirty-four 
 
 llie Japan Evangelist, April 1895.
 
 THE PRIESTHOOD 239 
 
 millions of Jajoanesc are sceptics or materialists, or absolutely 
 smik in childish and degrading superstitions, out of which the 
 religious significance, such as it was, has been lost." 
 
 According to the same authority, there are 8,000 
 Shinto temples in Japan, attached to which there 
 are about 20,000 priests and attendants. A few 
 years ago there was granted annually for the sup- 
 port of those sluines a sum of £58,000. Formerly 
 a Department of Public Worship dealt with such 
 matters. They are now under the charge of the Home 
 Secretary. 
 
 The priests are said to be, as a body, men of 
 considerable culture and ability. Though I came in 
 contact with many at the temples, I was never for- 
 tunate enough to meet with one who knew English. 
 I have heard them highly spoken of as preachers, 
 and certainly, if one may judge from translations 
 of Japanese sermons given by Mitford, they have 
 a quaint and telling way of putting things. In the 
 list of Japanese proverbs given by Sii- E. J. Eeed 
 in his elaborate work on Japan, occurs the foUowino-, 
 " Clever preacher, short sermon." The following are 
 extracts from a rather' long sermon published by a 
 priest of the Shingaku sect — which combines all that 
 is good in Buddhism, Shinto, and Confucianism, 
 and maintains the original goodness of the human
 
 240 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 heart, but, notwithstanding its length, it is not want- 
 ing in cleverness. 
 
 " Mushi * says, ' Benevolence is the heart of man ; righteous- 
 ness is the path of man. How lamentable a thing is it to leave 
 the path and go astray, to cast away the heart and not know 
 wliere to seek for it ! ' 
 
 " The t«xt is taken from the first chapter of KGshi (the com- 
 mentator)! on Moshi. 
 
 " Now this quality, which we call benevolence, has been 
 the subject of conmientaries by many teachers ; but as these 
 commentaries have been difficult of comprehension, they are too 
 hard to enter the ears of women and children. It is of this 
 benevolence that, using examples and illustrations, I jiropose to 
 treat. 
 
 " A long time ago there lived at Kyoto a great physician 
 called Imaoji — I forget his other name : he was a very famous 
 man. Once upon a time, a man from a place called Kurama- 
 guchi advertised for sale a medicine which he had compounded 
 against the cholera, and got Imaoji to write a putT for him. 
 Imaoji, instead of calling the medicine in the puff a specific 
 against the cholera, misspelt the word cholera so as to make it 
 simpler. When the man who had employed him went and 
 taxed him with this, and asked him why he had done so, he 
 answered with a smile — 
 
 " ' As Kuramaguchi is an approach to the capital from the 
 country, the passers-by are but poor peasants and Avoodmeu 
 from the hills: if I had written "cholera" at length, they 
 would have been jaizzled l)y it ; so I write it in a simple way, 
 that should pass current with every one. Truth itself loses its 
 value if people don't imderstand it. What does it signify how I 
 
 * The Chinese jihilosopher Meng Tse, called by Europeans 
 Mencius. 
 t Confucius
 
 A JAPANESE SEBMOM 241 
 
 spelt the word cholera, so long as the efficacy of the medicine is 
 unimpaired ? ' 
 
 " NoAV, was that not delightful ? In the same way the 
 doctrines of the sages are mere gibberish to women and children 
 who cannot imderstand them. Now, my sermons are not 
 written for the learned : I address myself to farmers and trades- 
 men, who, hard pressed by their daily business, have no time 
 for study, with the wish to make kno^vn to them the teachings 
 of the sages; and, carrying out the ideas of my teacher, I 
 will make my meaning pretty plain, by bringing forward 
 examj^les and quaint stories. Thus, by blending together the 
 doctrines of the Shinto, Buddhist, and other schools, we shall 
 arrive at something near the true principle of things. Now, 
 l^ositively, you must not laugh if I introduce a light story now 
 and then. Levity is not my object : I only want to put things 
 in a plain and easy manner. 
 
 " Well, then, the quality which we call benevolence is, iu 
 fact, a perfection ; and it is this perfection which Moshi spoke 
 of as the heart of man. With this perfect heart, men, by 
 serving their parents, attain to filial piety ; by serving their 
 masters they attain to fidelity ; and if they treat their wives, 
 their brethren, and their friends in the same spirit, then the 
 principles of the five relations of life will harmonise without 
 difficulty. As for putting perfection into practice, parents have 
 the special duties of parents ; children have the special duties of 
 children ; husbands have the special duties of husbands ; wives 
 have the special duties of wives. It is when all these special 
 duties are performed without a fault that true benevolence is 
 reached ; and that again is the true heart of man. 
 
 " For example, take this fan : any one who sees it knows it 
 to be a fan ; and, knowing it to be a fan, no one would think uf 
 using it to blow his nose in. The special use of a fan is for 
 visits of ceremony ; or else it is opened in order to raise a 
 cooling breeze : it serves no other purpose. In the same way, 
 this reading-desk will not do as a substitute for a shelf; again, 
 
 B
 
 242 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 it will not do instead of a pillow : so you see that a reading- 
 desk also has its sjwcial functions, for which you must use it. 
 So, if you look at your parents in the light of your parents, and 
 treat them with filial piety, that is the special duty of children ; 
 that is true benevolence ; that is the heart of man. Now 
 although you may think that, when I speak in this way, I am 
 speaking of others, and not of yourselves, believe me that the 
 heart of every one of you is by nature pure benevolence. I am 
 just taking down your hearts as a shopman does goods from his 
 shelves, and pointing out the good and bad qualities of each ; 
 but if you will not lay what I say to your own accoimts, but 
 persist in thinking that it is all anybody's business but yours, 
 all my labour will be lost. 
 
 " Listen ! You who answer your parents rudely, and cause 
 them to weep; you who bring grief and trouble on your 
 masters ; you who cause your husbands to fly into passions ; 
 you who cause your wives to mourn ; you who hate your 
 younger brothers, and treat your elder brothers with contempt ; 
 you who sow sorrow broadcast over the world ; — what are you 
 doing but blowing your noses in fans, and using reading-desks 
 as pillows? I don't mean to say that there are any such 
 persons here ; still there are plenty of them to be found — say in 
 the back streets in India for instance. Be so good as to mind 
 what I have said. 
 
 " Consider carefully, if a man is born with a naturally bad 
 disposition, Avhat a dreadful thing it is ! Ha]ipilj', you and I 
 were born -with perfect hearts, which we would not change for a 
 tliousand — no, not for ten thousand pieces of gold : is not this 
 something to be thankful for ? . . . 
 
 " When a man marries a wife, he thinks how hajipy he will 
 be, and how pleasant it will be keeping house on his own 
 account ; but, before the bottom of the family kettle has been 
 scorched black, he will be like a man learning to swim in a 
 field, with his ideas all turned topsy-turvy, and, contrary to all 
 his expectations, he will find the pleasures of housekeeping to
 
 A JAPANESE SERMON 243 
 
 be all a delusion. Look at that woman there. Haunted by her 
 cares, she takes no heed of her hair, nor of her personal appear- 
 ance. With her head all untidy, her apron tied round her as a 
 girdle, with a baby twisted into the bosom of her dress, she 
 carries some wi-etched bean sauce which she has been out to 
 buy. "What sort of creature is this? This all comes of not 
 listening to the warnings of parents, and of not waiting for the 
 proper time, but rushing suddenly into housekeeping. . . . 
 
 " There are plenty of people who use these words, rayself and 
 viy own, thoughtlessly and at random. How false is this belief 
 that they profess ! If there were no system of government by 
 superiors, but an anarchy, these peojjle, who vaunt themselves 
 and their own powers, would not stand for a day. In the old 
 days, at the time of the war at Ichi-no-tani, Minamoto no 
 Yoshitsune left Mikusa, in the province of Tamba, and attacked 
 Settsu. Overtaken by the night among the moimtains, he 
 knew not what road to follow; so he sent for his retainer, 
 Benkei, of the temple called Musashi, and told him to light the 
 big torches which they had agreed upon. Benkei received his 
 orders and transmitted them to the troops, who immediately 
 dispersed through all the valleys, and set fire to the houses of 
 the inhabitants, so that one and all blazed up, and, thanks to 
 the light of this fire, they reached Ichi-no-tani, as the story 
 goes. If you think attentively, you will see the allusion. 
 Those who boast about my warehouse, my farm, my daughter, 
 nny wife, hawking alwut this ' my ' of theirs like pedlars, let 
 there once come trouble and war in the world, and, for all their 
 vain-gloriousness, they will be as helpless as turtles. Let them 
 be thankful that peace is established throughout the world. 
 The humane Government reaches to every frontier : the officials 
 of every department keep watch night and day. When a man 
 sleeps under his roof at night, how can he say that it is thanks 
 to himself that he stretches his limbs in skmiber? You go 
 your rounds to see whether the shutters are closed and the front 
 door fast, and, having taken every precaution, you lay yourself 
 
 R 2
 
 244 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 do\vn to rest in peace, and what a precaution after all ! A 
 board, four-tenths of an inch thick, planed down front and rear 
 until it is only two-tenths of an inch thick. A fine precaution, 
 in very truth ! — a precaution which may be blown down with a 
 breath. Do you suppose such a thing as that would frighten a 
 thief from breaking in ? This is the state of the case. Here 
 are men who, by the benevolence and virtue of their rulers, live 
 in a delightful world, and yet, forgetting the mysterious provi- 
 dence that watches over them, keep on singing their own praises. 
 Selfish egotists ! 
 
 " ' My property amounts to five thousand ounces of silver. I 
 may sleep with my eyes turned up, and eat and take my 
 pleasure, if I live for five hundred or for seven hundred years. 
 I have five warehouses and twenty-five houses. I hold other 
 pcoiile's bills for fifteen ounces of silver.' So he dances a fling 
 for joy, and has no fear lest iioverty should come upon him for 
 fifty or a hundred years. Minds like frogs, with eyes in the 
 middle of their backs ! Foolhardy thoughts ! A trusty castle 
 of defence indeed ! How little can it be depended upon ! And 
 when such men are sleeping quietly, how can they tell that they 
 may not be turned into those big torches we were talking about 
 just now, or that a great earthquake will not be upheaved V 
 These are the chances of this fitful world." 
 
 That the pulpit is a power in Japan would scarcely 
 he maintained, hut the homily from which the above 
 extracts have been taken is a fair specimen, I under- 
 stand, of a Japanese sermon, and jjroves that the 
 Japanese priest knows how to preach as well as to 
 serve at the altar. 
 
 The Japanese have their sacred books, like the 
 Chinese and the Hindoos, and many of them are very
 
 THE JESUIT MISSION 245 
 
 learned in them. They are called the Kojilci and the 
 Nihongi. The former is the compilation of a woman, 
 said to have been a peasant, and was published in 712 
 B.C. The Nihongi was mainly the work of one Toneri 
 Shinno, and was completed in a.d. 720. These sacred 
 books contain, besides religious teaching and moral 
 precepts, much of the early history of Japan. The 
 Kojiki teaches that, before the world came into being 
 there existed a God called " The Lord of the Centre 
 of Heaven." After him two other deities appeared, 
 " Lofty Producer " and " Divine Producer," who 
 were joint creators of the earth and all that lived 
 upon it. 
 
 Christianity was first introduced into Japan in the 
 year 1549 by St. Francis Xavier. The story of his 
 Mission is one of the most profoundly interesting 
 passages in Japanese history. He was carrying on a 
 propaganda in India when he met a Japanese fugitive 
 named Anjiro, a native of Satsuma, who had learnt 
 Portuguese and had become a Christian convert. 
 Anjiro, in answer to Xavier's inquiry as to whether 
 his countrymen would accept Christianity, declared 
 (according to one of the missionary's letters) that 
 " his people would not immediately assent to what 
 might be said to them, but they would investigate 
 what I might affirm respecting religion by multitude."?
 
 246 JOUBNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 of questions, and, above all, by observing whether my 
 conduct agreed with my words. This done, the King, 
 the nobility, and adult population, would flock to 
 Cluist, being a nation wliich always follows reason as 
 a guide." Eired by the prospect, Xavier set out for 
 the Land of the Pdsing Sun, and landed from a 
 Chinese junk at Kagoshima, in the island of Kyushu, 
 with a few companions, including Anjiro as inter- 
 preter. After great privations — for it was the depth of 
 winter — he arrived in about two months at the capital 
 Miaco (Kyoto). By costly gifts he won the favour 
 of the great warrior Nobunaga, who had brought a 
 large part of the Empire under his sway, and was a 
 bitter foe to Buddhism. After two years and a half 
 of energetic proselytizing, Xavier returned to Por- 
 tugal, together with a native ambassador, to make 
 certain political arrangements in favour of the party 
 who had lent him their support. 
 
 Other Jesuit missionaries went out in rapid suc- 
 cession, and their efforts were crowned with marvel- 
 lous success. iSTot only the common people, but the 
 daimyos, high officers of the State, and of the army 
 and navy, became converts. Christian churches 
 studded the land, most of them being Buddhist 
 temples which had been sprinkled and pmified. 
 Seminaries for the training of a native Christian
 
 CEBISTIANITY PRO SCRIBED 247 
 
 priesthood were set up in the large towns. Towards 
 the end of the Jesuit period, it is computed that the 
 Christian converts numbered about six hundred 
 thousand. 
 
 The death of Nobunaga was the turning-point 
 in the history of the mission. His great generals, 
 Hideyoshi and leyasu, were hostile to the new 
 religion. In 1587 a great persecution broke out 
 against the Christians, which lasted three years, and 
 during which over twenty thousand were put to 
 death. The Jesuits continued to send fresh mission- 
 aries into the country, in defiance of the rulers, who 
 declared that, " should the very God of the Christians 
 come, they would behead him." About that time 
 was instituted the festival of the " Trampling of the 
 Cross." I have already referred to the custom of 
 trampling upon a cross, and other emblems of the 
 Passion, by way of abjuring the proscribed religion. 
 It is not many years since that festival was abolished. 
 The last persecution of the Christians ended in the 
 tragic incident of Shimabara, near Nagasaki. There, 
 in the castle, the ruins of which still remain, the 
 faithful had assembled from every quarter of the 
 Empire for the purpose of a last and desperate stand 
 against their persecutors. Being overpowered, they 
 were all mercilessly massacred, multitudes of both
 
 248 JOURNEYS AMONG TEE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 sexes and all ages being hm-led alive from the rock 
 of Pappenberg into the sea. From that time, " the 
 name of Christ became an object of shame and terror 
 throughout Japan." According to that eminent 
 authority, Dr. Griffis — 
 
 "For centuries the mention of that name would bate the 
 breath, blanch the cheek with fear, as with an earthquake 
 shock. It was the synonym of sorcery, sedition, and all that 
 was hostile to the peace of society. All over the empire — in 
 every city, town, village and hamlet, by the roadside, ferry, or 
 mountain pass, at every entrance to the capital — stood the 
 public notice-boards on which, with prohibition against the 
 great crimes that disturb the relations of society and govern- 
 ment, was one tablet, written with a deeper brand of guilt, with 
 a more hideous memory of blood, with a more awful terror of 
 torture, than when the like superscription was affixed at the top 
 (if a cross that stood between two thieves on a little hill outside 
 Jerusalem. Its daily and familiar sight startled ever and anon 
 tlie peasant to clasp hands and utter a fresh prayer, the bonze to 
 add new venom to his maledictions, the magistrate to shake his 
 head, and to the mother a ready word to hush the crying of her 
 fretful babe. That name was Christ. So thoroughly was 
 Christianity, or the ' Jashi mon ' (corrupt sect), supposed to be 
 eradicated before the end of the seventeenth century, that its 
 existence was historical, remembered only as an awful scar on 
 the national memory." 
 
 Such is the stii-ring story of the Jesuit Mission, 
 which might never have come to such a tragical end, 
 and might have resulted in the entire evangelization 
 of the Japanese people, if its priests had not
 
 A TERRIBLE EDICT 249 
 
 indulged in poKtical intrigues, and invoked the aid 
 of the secular power. Trom the massacre of Pappen- 
 berg rock, which all but extinguished the flame of 
 Christianity in the land for well-nigh two centuries 
 and a half, there was to be seen in every village, on 
 every bridge, and on every sign-board, the terrible 
 edict: "As long as the sun shall warm the earth, 
 let no Christian be so bold as to come to Japan ; 
 and let all know that the King of Spain himself, 
 or the Christian's God, or the great God of all, if he 
 violate this command, shall pay for it with his 
 head." * 
 
 It was in 1859 that the Gospel was again brought 
 to the Japanese. The first missionaries were Ameri- 
 
 * In his 'Japan Missions' Mr. Eugene Stock has the following 
 comment upon the above proclamation : — 
 
 " Who is ' the Christian's God,' so curiously distinguished in 
 these shocking words from the ' great God of all ' ? One of the 
 letters carried to Pope Gregory XIII. by the four Japanese 
 nobles was thus addressed : * A celui qui doit etre adore, et qui 
 tient la place du Eoi du Ciel, le grand et Tres-Saint Pape ' ; and 
 another began thus ; ' J'adore le Tres-Saint Pape, qui tient la 
 place de Dieu sur la terre.' 
 
 " We can honour the zeal and self-denial of the Jesuit 
 missionaries. We can believe that among their converts there 
 were some who, in much ignorance, did trust their souls to the 
 Saviour. But the responsibility for the blasphemous proclama- 
 tion, which for two centuries and more shut out Christianity 
 from Japan, must lie at the door of Kcme."
 
 250 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS 
 
 cans, but they were only able to work in an indirect 
 way. They had to use great tact and precaution. 
 Though the blasphemous proclamation which was 
 once so universal was no longer seen, on the Nihon- 
 bashi — the principal bridge of Yedo — there stood a 
 notice-board, for some years after Lord Elgin's treaty 
 had secured toleration for foreigners, strictly pro- 
 hibiting " the evil sect called Christian." Gradually 
 the authorities interfered less and less with the new 
 religion; its propagation by the missionaries, and 
 its prdfession by the people, came, after a while, 
 to be tacitly tolerated, till, at length, under the 
 new constitution of 1889, the fullest freedom 
 of belief was accorded to subjects of the Japanese 
 empire. 
 
 The body of Christians now in the country is 
 100,000 strong, or an average of one in 400. It is 
 composed broadly of 60,000 Eoman Catholics and 
 Greek Christians, and 40,000 of all the other Chris- 
 tian denominations. The country is now covered 
 with a network of mission stations, with the Open 
 Ports as headquarters. There has been a consolida- 
 tion of the missions of the Church of England and of 
 the Protestant Episcopal Church of America under 
 the title of "Nippon Sei Kokwai" (the Church in 
 Japan). There is also the " Nippon Ichi Kyokwai,"
 
 PROTESTANT MISSIONS 251 
 
 consisting of the American and Scotch Presbyterian 
 Churches and the Dutch Eeformed. Nearly every 
 form of American Nonconformity is represented, and 
 there has recently been an invasion by the Salvation 
 Army.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Accident, railway, 215-219 
 Adams, Will, 44, 45 
 Ajina, 185, 186 
 Akashi, 169, 170 
 Aleutian Islands, 20, 22 
 Ama-terasu, Goddess of the 
 
 Sun, 26, 232, 236 
 American Independence Day, 
 
 135 
 Americans, tlieir interest in 
 
 Japan, 2 ; resident in Japan, 
 
 28, 35, 156, 163 
 Amida, images of, at Nikko, 
 
 122, 164, 237 
 " Amusements Committees," 
 
 23 
 Anglican Church at Yoko- 
 hama, 35, 36 
 Anjiro, 245, 246 
 Annai-ji% 128, 209 
 Appeal to Japanese women, 
 
 94,95 
 Arab, antithesis of Jap, 30 
 Architecture in Japan, 98; 
 
 military, 201 ; Buddhist and 
 Shinto, 234 
 
 Archives, 49, 187 
 
 Arima, 155, 164, 167, 185, 201 
 
 " Armada," Mongolian, 48 
 
 Arnold, Sir Edwin, 24, 45, 46, 
 48, 169, 190, 191 
 
 Art, Japanese, 187 
 
 Artists, 18 
 
 Artistes, 35, 206 ' 
 
 Asakusa, 87-89 
 
 Asano Takumi, 104, 105 
 
 Ashinoyu, 73-76 
 
 Athletic sports on the Pacific, 
 22 
 
 Atlantic, the North, 3, 9, 14, 
 16,17 
 
 " Atlantic Ferry," 13 
 
 Atoshi, 34 
 
 Atsumori, story of, 170 
 
 Attention, Japanese, 67 
 
 Attu, Island of, 20 
 
 Austin, Eev. W. T., at Yoko- 
 hama, 36
 
 INDEX 
 
 253 
 
 Avatars, 236 
 Avenue of Nikko, 118 
 Awa, province of Shikoku, 192 
 Azabu, 91, 94 
 
 Bacon, Miss, 75, 90 
 Baker, Mount, 230 
 Baldwin, Eev. J. M., 222 
 Ballard House, Kobe, 140, 170, 
 
 171 
 Banff, 5, 6 
 Bank, Imperial, 147 
 Banner, Japanese national, 194 
 Baring-Gould, Miss Edith M. 
 
 E., extract from her ' Ever 
 
 Westward through Heathen 
 
 Lands,' 22 
 Baths and bathing, 70, 71, 
 
 155, 157, 161, 209 
 Battlefield, crossing a, 127 
 Bayeaux Tapestry, Japanese, 
 
 48 
 Bazaar of Tokyo, 83 
 Beaver, steamship, 19 
 Bed, Japanese, 68, 131, 158 
 Behring Sea, 20 
 Bells, at Kyoto, 151 ; at Nara, 
 
 165 
 Benten, 55 
 
 Benten-dori, Yokohama, 225 
 Benten-yama, 74 
 Bickersteth, Bishop Edward, 
 
 91-93 
 , Miss, her book on 
 
 Japan, 166 
 
 Bill, 177, 178 
 
 Bird-life in Japan, 127, 128 
 Birushana; see " Koshana." 
 Bishop, Mrs., nee Miss Bird, 
 
 93, 94, 238 
 Bismarck, 5 
 « Bismarck Hill," 161 
 Biwa Lake, 140 
 Bizarreries, 99, 100 
 Bluff, the, Yokohama, 34 
 Bon Matsuri (Festival of tie 
 
 Dead), 168, 169 
 Booking on Japanese raihvay^^, 
 
 213-215 
 Books, The Sacred, of Japan, 
 
 245 
 Boscawen, Mr. A. G., M.P., 
 
 118, 195, 196 
 Botanical Gardens, 102 
 "Boys" on the Emjiress of 
 
 India, 15 
 Brandon, 7 
 Bret Harte, his ' Heathen 
 
 Chinee,' 24 
 Bridges at Tokyo, 82 ; Ked 
 
 Bridge at Nikko, 120 
 " Britain of the Pacific," 2 
 British Columbia, 6, 9 
 consulate, 61; embassy, 
 
 116 
 Brittan's, Miss, at Yokohama, 
 
 34 
 Brooklyn Bridge, 2 
 Bryan, Eev. Mr., 185 
 Buddha, colossal statue of, at
 
 254 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Kamakura, 49, 50 ; at Nara, 
 
 163, 164, 238 
 Buddhism, central idea of, 50, 
 
 232, 235-239 
 Bmjo, 69 
 
 Cabby, rapacity of the, 33 
 
 Calgary, 7, 8 
 
 Calligraphy of Kobo Daishi, 
 
 123, 124 
 Canada, 7 
 Canadian Pacific Railway, 2-5, 
 
 7, 10-12, 14 
 Canadians, 3 
 Caiion, Fraser River, 6 
 Cape Su-zaki, 27 
 Cards, visiting, 46, 104 
 Cascades, at Nikko, 122, 126 ; 
 
 at Chtzenji, 127 ; at Kobe, 
 
 143, 144 
 Castles, Odawara, 65 ; Osaka, 
 
 145, 146; Kyoto, 151; 
 
 Himeji, 173 ; Okayama, 
 
 179, 180; Matsuyama, 200, 
 
 201; Nagoya, 222, 223; 
 
 Shimabara, 247 
 " Celestials," 15, 23, 24 
 Cemeteries, 103, 168 
 Cliadai, tea-money, 128, 178 
 Chamberlain, Professor Basil 
 
 Hall, 50, 102 
 Cherry-blossoms, 83 
 " Chicago of Japan," 144 
 China, 5, 23 ; works on, 26 . 
 
 interior of, 94 ; cholera 
 
 brought to Japan from, 
 
 143; Mr. Fripp's travels 
 
 in, 171 ; Emperor of, 238 
 Chinese, 4, 5 ; " boys," 15 ; 
 
 death of a Chinaman, 23, 25; 
 
 Chinese at Yokohama, 35 ; 
 
 their commercial morality, 
 
 179 
 Chinese Seas, typhoons in the, 
 
 18 
 Chion-In, temple of, at Kyoto, 
 
 151 
 Cholera, at Kobe, 143, 220; 
 
 at Hiroshima, 184, 199, 215 
 Christianity, 27, 245-251 
 Christian relics, 84-86 
 Churches, at Tokyo, 92; at 
 
 Kobe, 141, 142 
 Chuzenji, 122, 125-127, 132- 
 
 134 
 Cleanliness, 71 
 Cleveland, Mrs., 94 
 Climate, 71 ; of Shikoku, 208 
 Cloisonne, 223, 224 
 Clubs, at Yokohama, 35; at 
 
 Kobe, 141 
 Coaster, Japanese, 196, 197, 
 
 210 
 College, Imperial Naval, 212 
 Colonisation, French, 229 
 Commandments of Shinto, 233 
 Commendatory letter, 128 
 Confirmation Service at Tokyo, 
 
 92 
 Confucius, 108, 240
 
 INDEX 
 
 255 
 
 Congregationalists, at Yoko- 
 hama, 36 ; at Kobe, 141 ; 
 at Nara, 163 , 
 
 Constitution, promulgation of 
 the, 135 
 
 Consulate, British, 61 
 
 Coolies, at Yokohama, 30 ; 
 powers of endurance of, 31 ; 
 titled, 31, 34, 65, 73, 76, 
 77; stupidity of, 149, 150, 
 156, 185, 189, 201 
 
 Court, Imperial, 97 
 
 Cranes, 180 
 
 Cree Indians, 7 
 
 Cricket, on the Pacific, 22 ; at 
 Kobe, 141 
 
 Curios, Indian, 8; Japanese 
 and Chinese, 81, 141 
 
 Currency, Japanese, 36, 37 
 
 Custom House examination, 29 
 
 Dai-Butsu, at Kamakura, 49 ; 
 
 at Nara, 163, 164 
 Daily Colonist (Yictoria, B.C.)> 
 
 extract from the, 226-228 
 Daiya-gawa, the, 120, 122- 
 
 124 
 Dances on the Pacific, 23 
 Date Masamune, Prince of 
 
 Sendai, 85 
 Deer, at Nara, 164 ; in Miya- 
 
 jima, 187 
 Diet, Japanese, 54 
 Dilatoriness of the Japs, 194, 
 
 195 
 
 Divine Service, on the Pacific, 
 25 ; at Nikko, 119 ; at Kobe, 
 141, 142, 143 
 
 Divinity School, Tokyo, 93 
 
 Dugo (lyo), 209 
 
 Dollar, Mexican silver, 36 
 
 Donkey-boys of Egypt, 149 
 
 Dooman, Piev. Isaac, 162 
 
 Dragon's Head Cascade, 127 
 
 Drama, 103, 170 
 
 Dress, national versus foreign, 
 94-98 
 
 Dutch traders, 86 
 
 Earthquakes, 58-61, 80, 92, 
 140, 166, 167 
 
 Ebisu, God of Luck, 162 
 
 Ebisu-ya, Enoshima, 53 
 
 Edict prohibiting Christianity, 
 249 
 
 Education, of Japanese ladies, 
 75 ; of geishas, 206 
 
 Electricity, at Vancouver, 11 ; 
 in Japan, 68, 69, 80 
 
 Emma-0, 144, 169 
 
 Emperor of China, 238 
 
 Emin-ess steamships, 14, 15, 
 18 ; library of, 26 
 
 Empress of India, 15; in a 
 typhoon, 18 ; Divine Ser- 
 vice on board the, 25 
 
 Empress of Japan, the, 90, 95, 
 99 
 
 Empress of Jajyan, 221, 225 
 
 Engineers, English, 37, 78
 
 256 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Encrlisli, difficulties of, 16 ; on 
 
 Japanese railways, 44 ; study 
 
 of, in Japan, 75, 76 
 English Bay, the, Vancouver, 
 
 12 
 Englishmen, land-hunters, 3, 
 
 16; in Yokohama, 35; at 
 
 Ashinoyu, 74 
 Enoshima, 42, 52-55, 74 
 Epidemics, 80 
 Etajima, Island of, 212 
 Exeter, Bishop of, 166 
 Exhibition, at Kyoto, 139, 
 
 152, 153; at Tokyo, 83, 
 
 153 
 
 Fans, 128, 141, 142 
 
 Far East, 5, 17, 20; landing 
 
 in, 29, 35, 36, 47, 158, 184, 
 
 213, 226 
 Far West, 20, 47, 54, 67 
 Fares, jinrickisha, 32, 33 ; 
 
 railway, 39 
 Festivals, 107, 168, 169; 
 
 "Trampling of the Cross," 
 
 247 
 Feudal system, 31, 47, 108, 
 
 201 
 Fire, imagmary outbreak of, 25 
 Fire-box ; see " Hibachi." 
 Fish in Lake Chuzenji, 127 
 Foreign Office at Tokyo, 41, 
 
 116 
 Foreigners, difficulties of Eng- 
 lish to, 16 
 
 Forest, 11 
 
 FootbaU on the Pacific, 22 
 
 Formosa, 182 
 
 Forty-seven Ronins, story of 
 the, 103-109 
 
 Eraser River, 6 
 
 French at Yokohama, 35 ; 
 language on Japanese rail- 
 ways, 44 ; ladies contrasted 
 with Japanese, 99 
 
 Fripp, Mr. C. E., 171 
 
 Fudo, 144 
 
 Fuji, 65, 140, 222, 224, 225 
 
 Fujisawa, 55-57 ; demonstra- 
 tion at, 62 
 
 Fuji-ya, Miyanoshita, 73 
 
 Games, on the Pacific, 22, 23 ; 
 
 at Kobe, 141 ; at Arima, 
 
 158 
 Gardens, Zoological, at T6kyo> 
 
 86 ; Botanic, 112 
 Gardner, Rev. C. Graham, 
 
 142 
 Qeisha, 203, 204-207 
 General Grant, his opinion of 
 
 Li Hung Chang, 5 ; at 
 
 Nikko, 120 
 Germans, at Yokohama, 35 ; 
 
 at Ashinoyu, 74 ; German 
 
 at the Imperial University, 
 
 Tokyo, 100 
 Gin-kakuji, Silver Tower, at 
 
 Kyoto, 151 
 Ginza, at Tokyo, 81
 
 INDEX 
 
 257 
 
 " Girl of the Period," Japanese, 
 96 
 
 " Glasgow of Japan," l-M 
 
 Go-aheadedness, American, 6 
 
 Gods and goddesses : Hachi- 
 man, God of War, 49, 50; 
 Ama-terasu, Goddess of the 
 Sun, 26, 232, 236 ; Kwan- 
 non. Goddess of Mercy, 49, 
 87 ; Seven Gods of Luck, 
 144; Emma-0, 144, 169; 
 Fud6, 144; Shusha Daio, 
 120 
 
 Golf, 23 
 
 Gotemba, 140, 222 
 
 Grafting, 181 
 
 Graphic, special artist of the, 
 171 
 
 " Great Divide," 9 
 
 Greeting, Japanese, 53, 66, 69, 
 77, 162, 202 
 
 Griffis, Dr., 248 
 
 Guinness, Mr., 125, 127 
 
 Gulf of Tokyo, 27 ; of Georgia, 
 230 
 
 Gunboats, American, 2 
 
 Hachi-ishi, 117 
 
 Hachiman, temple of, at 
 Kamakura, 49, 50, 52 
 
 Hackman, rapacity of Ameri- 
 can, 33 
 
 Hades, Buddhist, 169 
 
 Hakaranhioai, 150 
 
 Hakone Hills, 58-76 
 
 Hakodate, 40 
 
 HamUton, Rev. H. J., 222 
 
 Hammam, mysterious inscrij>- 
 
 tion at Nikko, 123 
 Handbooks, Miss Scidmore's, 
 
 205, 206; to NikkS, 126; 
 
 see " Murray P 
 Hara-kiri, 104, 106, 107, 115, 
 
 183, 184 
 Hartford, 4 
 
 Hashikura Eokuemon, 85 
 Hatago, 178 
 Hearn Lafcadio, 97 
 " Heathen Chinee," 24 
 HihacJii, 66, 67, 175-177 
 Hidetada, mausoleum of, 82 
 Hideyoshi, 26, 65, 145, 155, 
 
 173, 247 
 Himeji, 173 
 Hiragana, 51, 93, 236 
 Hiroshima, 172, 181, 182-189, 
 
 199, 213, 214 
 Hitomaro, 170 
 Hokkaido (Yeso), 192 
 Hohdays, national, 135 
 Holy Land, lecture on the, 
 
 93 
 Home Secretary at Tokyo, 
 
 154, 239 
 Honcho-dori, Yokohama, 225 
 Hondo, 201 
 Hongwangis, temples, at 
 
 Kyoto, 151 
 Hospital at Tokyo, 102 
 Hotel Me'tropole, Tokyo, 80 
 s
 
 258 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Hudson's Bay fort, 6 ; Com- 
 pany, 19 
 Hyogo, 140 
 
 ICEBEEG, 18 
 
 lemitsu, 26, 82, 121 
 
 leyasn, 26, 82, 121, 122, 222, 
 
 247 
 Illuminations at Yokohama, 
 
 134 
 Indians, Cree, 7 
 Indifferentism, 237 
 Inland Sea, 169, 173, 192, 
 
 197, 201 ; Canon Tristram's 
 
 opinion of, 211, 212 
 Inns, Japanese, 63, 65, 127) 
 
 128-131 
 Interpreters, 54, 55, 129 
 Ironclad, Japanese, 212 
 Italian on Japanese railways, 
 
 44 
 Ito, Marquis, 182, 194 
 Itozaki, 217 
 lyo, province of Shikoku, 192, 
 
 200 
 
 Japan, works on, 26 
 
 " Japan Missions," 249 (note) 
 
 Japan Stream, 23, 193 
 
 ' Japanese Girls and Women,' 
 
 Miss Scidmore's, 75, 90 
 Japanese language, 37, 44, 72 
 
 75, 92, 129, 149, 159 
 ' Japonaiseries d'Automne' of 
 
 Pierre Loti, 118 
 
 Japs, on the " C. P. R.," 4 ; as 
 railway travellers, 38; as 
 chartographers, 52 ; con- 
 trasted with Europeans, 56 j 
 as fellow-travellers, 63, 
 64 ; as bathers, 71 ; their 
 physique, 74 ; their women 
 as linguists, 75 ; as rehgiou- 
 ists, 144, 237, 239; as 
 horticulturists, 181 ; as 
 sailors, 193 
 
 Jefferys, Rev. Henry Scott, 
 237 
 
 Jigen Daishi, 124 
 
 Jikuku Daishi, 110 
 
 Jingo Kogo, first Empress of 
 Japan, 26 
 
 Jinrickisha, 30 
 
 Johnson, Mr. Cameron, 142 
 
 Joss, 24 
 
 Junks, 28, 148, 199, 201 
 
 Kago, 73, 74, 125, 156 
 
 Kagoshima, 246 
 
 Kagura, an ancient dance, 164 
 
 Kake-mono, 158 
 
 Kamakura, 42, 43, 46-52, 163, 
 
 164 
 Kanagawa, 78 
 Kanaya, the, at Nikko, 118, 
 
 119, 128, 132, 133 
 Kanranjo, 104 
 Kasuga temple at Nara, 164 
 Katase, 52-54 
 Kawasaki, 78
 
 INDEX 
 
 259 
 
 Kenclio, 61 
 
 Kicking-Horse Pass, 9 
 
 Kihara, 217 
 
 King, Rev. Armine F., 91 
 
 Kin-kakuji, Gold Tower, at 
 Kyoto, 151 
 
 Kinka-zan, 27 
 
 Kirifuri-no-taki, Cascade, at 
 Nikko, 122 
 
 Kishu, 57 
 
 Kiyomizu-dera, at Kyoto, 153 
 
 Kobe, 137, 140-171 ; " Union 
 Church," lU-143; Shino- 
 miya, 142 ; Nimobiki, 143, 
 167, 169, 172, 173, 219, 
 220 
 
 Kobe Chronicle, 227 
 
 Kobo Daishi, 26 ; temple de- 
 dicated to, 78; calligraphy 
 of, 123, 124, 189, 236 
 
 Kodsu, 62, 64, 75-77 
 
 Kajihi, 245 
 
 Kompira, 209 
 
 Ko-Murasake, story of, 109- 
 115 
 
 Koshigoe, 52, 55 
 
 Koraku-En Gardens, 180, 181 
 
 Korea, 208, 225-229, 235 
 
 Kotsuke no Suke, 104-108 
 
 Kublai Khan, 48 
 
 Kumagai Naozane, 170 
 Kure, 212 
 
 Kuruma ; see " Jinrickisha." 
 Kwammu, Emperor, 150 
 Kwankoba, at Tokyo, 83 
 
 Kwannon, 49 ; temple and 
 image of, 52, 152 
 
 Kyoto, 79, 139, 140, 148 ; ar- 
 rival in, 149 ; story of, 150 ; 
 area, population, and his- 
 toric buildings, 151 ; In- 
 dustrial Exhibition, 152, 
 153; Yaami's, 153, 170, 
 246 
 
 Kyiishu, 192, 246; Railway, 
 182 
 
 Lacqueb, 82 
 
 Land-hunters, English and 
 
 Scandinavian, 3 
 Lakes, Chuzenji, 125-127, 
 
 133, 134; Yumoto, 127, 
 
 133; Biwa, 140; at Nara, 
 
 165 
 Languages, foreign, in Japanese 
 
 schools, 75 
 Leave-taking in Japan, 55, 56, 
 
 76, 132, 178, 190, 206, 210 
 Lecture on the Holy Land, 93 
 Leprosy, 57, 92 
 Li Hung Chang, 4, 5, 182 
 Lochs Katrine and Vennachar 
 
 of Japan, 133 
 Lotus, 87, 89 
 Luggage on Japanese Railways, 
 
 39, 77, 137, 138 
 
 Magellan, 17 
 
 Makkura - daki Cascade at 
 Nikko, 122
 
 260 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Manclinria, Mrs. Bishop's jour- 
 ney through, 94 
 
 Mats (tatamis), 54, 158, 160 
 
 Matsuyama, 200-208 
 
 Mausoleums of leyasu and 
 lemitsu, 117, 121, 122 
 
 Max O'Rell, 16 
 
 McClatchie's translations of 
 Japanese plays, 95, 96 
 
 Meadows, Mr., at Osaka, 165 
 
 Medicine Hat, 9 
 
 Meu'ane-bashi, at Tokyo, 82 
 
 Me^uro, 109-115 
 
 Mencius (Moshi), 240 
 
 Menjo, 40 
 
 Menu, on the Empress steam- 
 ships, 16 
 
 Merchants, Japanese, 4 
 
 Meridian, crossing the, 21, 22 
 
 Methodists at Yokohama, 36 
 
 Metropole, Hotel, Tokyo, 80, 
 91 
 
 Middies, English, at Nikko, 
 122 
 
 Mihara, 181, 182 
 
 Mikado, ancestress of the, 26, 
 232 ; 48 ; Court trappings of 
 the, 86 ; palace of the, 89, 
 90, 120, 127, 135, 150, 
 165 ; at Hiroshima, 183, 
 194, 238 
 
 Minamoto clan, 170 
 
 Mineml springs, 71, 74, 127, 
 131, 155, 161 
 
 Mint, Imperial, 147 
 
 Misconceptions with regard to 
 
 Japan, 97, 98 
 Mission-room, Seamen's, at 
 
 Yokohama, 36 
 Mission, St. Andrew's, 91-93 
 Missionaries, Canadian, 7, 27 
 
 66 ; Roman Catholic, 84 
 
 85, 245-247, 250, 251 ; 140^ 
 
 162, 163, 167, 185, 201 
 
 202, 237 
 Mitford's ' Tales of Old Japan, 
 
 104, 239 
 Mitsu-ga-hama, 199, 200, 210 
 Miyajima, 185-189 
 Miyanoshita, 65, 70, 71, 73 
 Miyoshino, at Okayama, 175- 
 
 178 
 Moji, 182 
 
 Mongol, the, and English, 16 
 Mongolian features, 4 ; " Ar- 
 mada," 48 
 Montreal, 2-4, 6, 231 
 Moose Jaw, 9 
 Morality, of the geisha, 206 ; 
 
 commercial, 179 
 Mosquitoes, 69, 167, 177, 209, 
 
 219 
 ]\Ioto-machi, street at Kobe, 
 
 141 
 Mount Baker, 19 
 Mount Royal, 2 
 Mounted Police, North-West, 
 
 7 
 Mousmes, 53, 64, 77, 129, 
 
 130, 144, 160, 202
 
 INDEX 
 
 2G1 
 
 Mukogawa, Valley of the, 160, 
 
 161 
 Murray's Handbook, 72, 80, 
 
 88, 123, 143, 144, 175 
 ]^Iu.seum, of Uyeno, 84-86 ; of 
 
 Okayama, 180 
 Mythology, Japanese, 55 
 
 Nagasaki, 40, 173 
 Nagoya, 137, 138, 221-224 
 Naka-dori, at Tokyo, 81 
 Namma-ya, the, at Yumoto, 
 
 128 
 Nantai-zan, 126 
 Nara, 162-165 
 Nara-ya, Miyanoshita, 73 
 Narrows, The, Vancouver, 89 
 National Bevieiv, the, extract 
 
 from, 148 
 Naval Keserve, officers of the, 
 15 
 
 station, Japanese, 212 
 
 Nestorian Christians, 163 
 New England, 4 
 
 World, 6, 10, 20 
 
 York, Japanese mer- 
 chants in, 4 
 Newspapers, Japanese, 214, 
 
 217, 218 
 Niagara, 2 
 Nichi Nichi Shimhun (" Daily 
 
 News "), 214 
 " Nightmgale of Japan," 128 
 Nigwatsu-do, temple of, 165 
 Nihon-bashi, Tokyo, 82, 250 
 
 Nihongi, 245 
 Niigata, 40 
 
 Nijo Castle, Kyoto, 151 
 Nikko, 82, 116, 117 ; avenue, 
 118 ; the Kanaya, 118, 119 ; 
 the Sacred Bridge, 120 ; 
 mausoleums of leyasu and 
 lemitsu, 121, 122; cascades, 
 122 ; images of Buddha, 
 122 ; legend of Kubo Daishi, 
 123, 124 
 " Nippon Sei Kokwai," 250 
 " Nippon Ishi Kyokwai," 250 
 Nirvana, 138 ; doctiine of, 236 
 Nishinomiya, 161, 162 
 Nobunaga, 246, 247 
 Norman, Mr. Henry, 95, 224 
 North - West, 4 ; Mounted 
 
 Police, 7 
 Nunobiki, Kobe, 143, 144 
 
 Obseevatory at Tokyo, 102 
 
 Udawara, 65 
 
 Officers, army, 62, 203 
 
 Official fiction, 61 
 
 Officials, customs, 29 ; railway 
 
 39, 40; dress of, 97; 146 
 Of una, 46 
 
 Oguri Hangwan, 56, 57 
 Oigawa Eiver, 139 
 Oishi Kuranosuke, 104-107 
 Okayama, 173, 175-181, 215, 
 
 219 
 Old Japan, 33, 87, 98 
 Omori, 78
 
 262 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Ondo, 212 
 
 Onomichi, 181, 182, 215, 216 
 
 Opium, smuggling of, 20 
 
 Oriental Hotel, Yokohama, 34 ; 
 Kobe, 141 
 
 life in Vancouver, 11 
 
 Orientals, 69, 148 
 
 Osaka, 40, 140, 144 ; area and 
 population, 145 ; castle, 145, 
 146, 173; Imperial Mint, 
 147; bazaar, 148; residence 
 of Archdeacon Warren, 165- 
 167; 185 
 
 Osaka Asahi, 217 
 
 Otas;awa, River, 184 
 
 Owari, province of, 140 
 
 Pacific, the, 4, 9, 10, 13, 14, 
 
 16-19, 22 
 Pagodas, 28, 165, 234 
 Pak, Yong Ho, Prince of Korea, 
 
 225-229 
 Palace, Imperial, at T6kyo> 
 
 89, 90 ; at Kyoto, 151 
 Paper and printing works at 
 
 Tokyo, 147 
 Papooses, 7 
 
 Pappenberg, Rock of, 248, 249 
 Park, Vancouver, 11 ; Shiba 
 
 and Uyeno, Toky6, 82, 83 
 Parthia steamship, 20 
 Passport, 40, 41, 42, 61, 116, 
 
 199 
 Perry, Commodore, 75 
 Philippine Islands, 17, 59 
 
 "Pidgin" English, 15,24 
 
 Pierre Loti, 118 
 
 Pilgrimages, 107, 111, 126, 162 
 
 Pipe, 176, 177 
 
 Police, North- West Mounted, 7 
 
 Politeness of the Japanese, 29, 
 
 53, 63, 89, 124, 129, 130, 
 
 146, 178, 199 
 Pope, Japanese embassy to 
 
 the, 85 
 Port Arthur, 195, 230 
 Portage-la-Prairie, 7 
 Potteries, 223 
 Prairies, 7, 8 
 Preaching, on the Pacific, 25 ; 
 
 at Nikku, 119 ; at Kobe, 
 
 143 
 Priests, 233, 239, 244 
 Priestesses, Shinto, 164, 165, 
 
 233 
 Promulgation of the Constitu- 
 tion, 135 
 Proverbs, Japanese, 124, 239 
 Pullman passengers, 4 
 Punctuality, Japanese want of, 
 
 193, 194 
 Punkahs, 141-143 
 
 " Queen City of the West," 20 
 Queen's English, 33, 89 
 
 Railways, Canadian Pacific, 
 2 ; Japanese, 37, 38, 78, 79, 
 116, 117, 137, 169, 182, 
 195, 196, 200
 
 INDEX 
 
 263 
 
 Keading-room at Yokohama, 
 
 36 
 Ked Bridge of Nikko, 120 
 Eeed, Sir E. J., 239 
 Kelics, Christian, 84-86 ; of 
 
 the Forty-seven Ronins, 104, 
 
 107, 108 
 Religious exercises, 110; ascent 
 
 of Nantai-zan, 126 
 Revolution of 1868, 47, 50, 65, 
 
 150, 234 
 Bin ; see " Currency." 
 Rivers of Japan, 120, 139 ; 
 
 Yodogawa, 148; 161, 168; 
 
 Otagawa, 184 
 Roads of Japan, 71, 125, 133, 
 
 160, 185 
 Rockies, scenery in the, 6 ; 
 
 distance from Winnipeg, 7 ; 
 
 crossing the, 8, 9 
 Rokko-san Pass, 156 
 "Rome of the Far East," 
 
 151 
 Roshana, image of, at Nara, 
 
 164 
 Russian cathedral, 116 
 Eyohu Shinto, 49, 234 
 Eyori-ya (restaurant), 202 
 
 Sak^, 203 
 
 Salvation Army, 251 
 
 Samisen, 205 
 
 Sampan, 28, 134, 148; Will 
 
 Adams' description of, 186, 
 
 187 ; 201, 210, 212 
 
 Samurai, among the Jcoolies, 
 31, 105, 107, 111, 114, 183, 
 184, 189 
 
 Sanjiusangendo, temple of, 
 Kyoto, 151 
 
 San-kei, " three chief sights " 
 of Japan, 187 
 
 Sannomiya, 140 
 
 Sanuki, province of Shikoku, 
 192 
 
 Sanyo railway, 169, 172, 173, 
 181, 182, 218, 219 
 
 Saris, Captain, description of 
 Osaka castle, 146 
 
 Satow, Sir E., 235 
 
 Scandinavian land-hunters, 3 
 
 Scenery, along the " C. P. R.," 
 6 ; at Miyanoshita, 73 ; near 
 Ashinoyu, 74 ; at Nikko, 
 118, 126; at Arima, 157; 
 along the valley of the 
 Mukogawa, 160 ; in the In- 
 land Sea, 169, 173 
 
 Schools, 75, 97, 161; school- 
 children, 62, 63, 138, 161, 
 162, 186 
 
 Scidmore, Miss, her ' Westward 
 to the Far East,' 17, 205, 
 206 
 
 Seamen's Mission, at Yoko- 
 hama, 36 ; at Kobe, 142 
 
 ' Seas and Lands,' Sir Edwin 
 Arnold's, 191 
 
 Sects, Buddhist, 236, 237 
 
 Seismic wave, 167 (note)
 
 264 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Seismological Society, 60 
 
 Seiyo-ken, Tokyo, 80, 87 
 
 Selkirks, the, 6, 9 
 
 Sen ; see " Currency." 
 
 Sengakuji, 103-109 
 
 Senjo-ga-hara, Moor of the 
 Battlefield, 127 
 
 Senkoji, temple of, 181 
 
 Sen-yngi, burial-place of the 
 Mikados, 151 
 
 Sermon, Japanese, 240-244 
 
 Seven Gods of Luck, 144 
 
 Shanghai, contrasted with 
 Kobe, 154 
 
 Sheep at the Zoological Gar- 
 dens, Tokyo, 86 
 
 Shiba Park, 82 ; temples photo- 
 graphed by Mrs. Bishop, 94 ; 
 169 
 
 Shikoku, island of, meaning of 
 the name, 192 ; climate, 
 193 ; passage to, 196-198 ; 
 port of Mitsu-ga-hama, 199 ; 
 Matsuyama, 200-208; Dogo, 
 209 
 
 Shimabara, castle of, 247 
 
 Shimbashi, 79, 81 
 
 Sbimonoseki, 172, 182 
 
 Shinagawa, 78 
 
 Shinomiya, 142, 220 
 
 Shinran Shonin, 237 
 
 Shinto, 49, 50, 232-235, 237- 
 239 
 
 Shirai Gompachi, story oF, 109- 
 115 
 
 Shizuoka, 137 
 
 Shodu Shonin, legend of, 120 
 
 Shoguns, 26, 47 ; mortuary 
 
 temples of, 82, 87 ; court 
 
 trappings of, 86 ; castle of, 
 
 89 ; 127 
 Shovel-board on the Pacific, 22 
 Shusha Daio, 120 
 Shutters, 68-70, 112, 177, 207 
 Singing, 186 
 Smoking, 63, 64, 176 
 Snovvsheds, 9 
 Somen - ga - taki, cascade, at 
 
 Nikko, 122 
 South Sea Islands, 12 
 Springs, mineral, 71 ; Ashinoyu, 
 
 74; Yumoto, 127, 131; 
 
 Arima, 155, 157 ; Dogo 
 
 (lyo), 209 
 Squaws, 7 
 
 St. Andrew's Mission, 91-93 
 Straits of Georgia, 19 
 Straw sandals, 124 
 Students, Japanese, 4, 46, 100, 
 
 101, 137, 138 
 Sugimoto-ya at Arima, 157 
 Suicide at the call of honour ; 
 
 see " Hara-kiri." 
 Suma, 169, 170 
 Sumiyoshi, 156 
 Sunday on the Pacific, 24, 25 
 Superstition at Nikko, 123 
 Su-zaki, Cape, 27 
 Swallows' nests, 160 
 Swann, Rev. Sidney, 141
 
 INDEX 
 
 265 
 
 Taira clan, 170 
 
 Takarazuka, 160 
 
 ' Tales of Japan,' Mitford's, 10-i 
 
 Tea on Japanese railways, 39 ; 
 " tea-money," 128, 178 
 
 Tea-houses, 51, 56, 64, 72, 77^ 
 111, 125, 143, 187, 202, 214 
 
 Telephone exchange, 80 
 
 Temples, of Hachiman, 49 ; of 
 Kwannon, 52 ; at Shiba and 
 Uyeno, 82, 87 ; of Kwannon 
 at Asakusa, 87-89 ; Senga- 
 kuji, 106; at Nikko, 121, 
 122; at Kyoto, 151, 152; 
 at Nishinomiya, 162 ; at 
 Nara, 164, 165 ; at Akashi, 
 170 ; at Onomichl, 181 ; in 
 Miyajima, 187, 188 
 
 Terute Hime, 56, 57 
 
 Throne of the Mikado, 86 
 
 Time-table on the " C. P. R.," 
 10 
 
 Tobacco-mono, 176 
 
 Tokaido Eailway, 43, 46, 55, 
 62, 77, 133-140, 151, 161, 
 173 
 
 Tokyo, arrival at, 79 ; story of, 
 79 ; area and population, 79 ; 
 foreign concession, 80; hotels, 
 80; Ginza and Naka-dori, 
 81 ; bridges, 82 ; parks, 82- 
 87; bazaar, 83; museum, 
 84-86; Zoological Gardens, 
 86; Imperial Palace, 89, 90; 
 Bishop Elward Bickersteth's 
 
 mission, 91-93 ; Imperial 
 University, 100-102; Forty- 
 seven Eonins, 103-109 
 
 TGky6, Gulf of, 27, 74 
 
 Tokugawa dynasty, 82, 201 
 
 Tonneri ShinnO, 245 
 
 Tonosawa, 65-71, 76 
 
 Tonquin, Gulf of, course, .of 
 typhoon, 17 
 
 Torii, « bird's rest," 187, 188, 
 234, 235 
 
 Tosa, province of Shikoku, 192 
 
 " Trampling boards," 85, 247 
 
 " Treaty Ports," 40, 98, 140 
 
 Tristram, Canon, 181 
 
 Tsukiji, district of Tokyo, 79, 
 80 
 
 Tsurumi, 78 
 
 Tunnels, 139, 174, 175, 182 
 
 Turkey, passport regulations 
 in, 40 
 
 Typhoon, 17, 18, 80, 198, 199, 
 216, 217 
 
 Uguisu, " nightingale of 
 
 Japan," 128 
 Ujina, port of Hiroshima, 183, 
 
 186, 196, 213 
 " Union Church," Kobe, 141- 
 
 143 
 University, at Tokyo, 100-102 
 Uno, province of, 140 
 Utsunomiya, 188 
 Uj'eno, park, 82-87 ; station, 
 
 116
 
 266 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Vancouver, 2, 6, 10-13, 15 ; 
 
 inlet of, 19 ; rivalry vritli 
 
 Victoria, 20 ; 230 
 Vaulx, Count Henry de la, 229 
 " Venice of Japan," 144 
 Venus, a Japanese, 99 
 Victoria, B.C., 19, 20, 226 
 Volcanic rocks, 160 
 Volcano, the next, 61 
 
 Waitikg-maids, 67, 68, 111, 
 
 208 
 Wakamiya, temple of, 16-4 
 War, return of the troops from 
 
 the, 43, 62, 77, 138, 139, 
 
 182, 186 ; Japanese conduct 
 
 of the, 195 
 "Warren, Archdeacon, 165 
 
 , Eev. C. F., 166, 167 
 
 " Water-cure " for sin, 110 
 Wayo-tei, Iklatsuyama, 202- 
 
 209 
 Webb, Eev. k. E., 93 
 Welsh place-names, 8 
 Western Mail, 1 
 ' Westward to the Far East,' 
 
 Miss Scidmore's, 17, 205, 
 
 206 
 Will Adams, 44, 45, 186, 
 
 187 
 Wing, Mr. Yung, 4, 5 
 Winnipeg, 5-7 
 
 Wycklifte Mission, Canadian, 
 222 
 
 Xavier, St. Frakcis, 245, 
 246 
 
 Yaami's, KyotOj 153 
 
 Yama, Regent of the Dead, 
 169 
 
 Yamashina, Prince, at Kyoto 
 Exhibition, 148 
 
 Yankee characteristics, 4 
 
 Yedo, 49, 79 ; story of, 80 
 
 Yellow Sea, course of typhoon, 
 17 
 
 Yen ; see " Currency." 
 
 Yodogawa, Eiver, 148 
 
 Yokohama, arrival at, 29 ; 
 native quarter, 33; settle- 
 ment, 34; foreign population 
 and clubs, 35; churches, 36; 
 distance from Tokyo, 40; 
 from Kobe, 137 ; return to, 
 224 ; embarkation, 225 
 
 Yoritomo, Shogun, 47 
 
 Yoshiwara, the, 113-115 
 
 Yumoto (Hakone), 64, 65, 75, 
 76 ; (Nikko), 127-134 
 
 Yunomine, 57 
 
 Zoological Gardens, Tokyo, 
 86 
 
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 8 
 
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 Haydu. 
 Mendelssohn. 
 
 GRTEB, German Dictionary, n. 
 
 od. 2 vols., fine paper, cloth, 21.';. 
 "GRINGO," Land of the 
 
 jztcc^. e.s. 
 GROIIMANN, Camps in the 
 
 Rockies, 12s. 6(/. 
 
 GROVES. See Low's Std. Bks. 
 GUILLE, Instruction and 
 
 Ajnitscmen/s of the Blind, ill., 5s. 
 
 GUIZOT, History of England, 
 
 illust. 3 vols, re-issue, 10s. Gd. oa. 
 
 History of France, illust. 
 
 re-i£sue, S vols. 10s. Gd. each. 
 Abridged by G. Masson, 5s. 
 
 GUNN, E. S., Romance of 
 Para Use, 3s. Gd,
 
 12 
 
 A Select List of Books 
 
 GUYON, Madame, Life, 6s. 
 Hx\DLEY, J., Roman Law, 
 
 7.V. M. 
 HALE, llow to Tie Sahiion- 
 
 Flics, 12s. Gd. 
 
 HALFORD, F. M., Dry Fly. 
 fishing, n. ed. 25,>;. netfc. 
 
 ■ Floating Flies, ir^s. 
 
 HALL, How to Live Lonq, Is. 
 
 HALSEY, F. A., iHide Valve 
 dears, 8s. 6d. 
 
 HAMILTON. See English 
 Philosophers. 
 
 E. Fhj-fisl ling for Salmon, 
 
 Gs. ; large paper, 10s. 6d. 
 
 Riverside Naturalist, 14s. 
 
 J.A.,3IountainFath,3s. 6d. 
 
 HANCOCK, H., Mechanics, 5s. 
 
 HAXDEL. See G. Musicians. 
 
 HANDS, T., Numerical Exer- 
 cises in Chemistry, 2s. 6d. 
 
 HandyGiiide to Dry-Jly Fishing, 
 by Cotsvvold Isys, uew ed., Is. 
 
 Handy Guide Book to Japanese 
 
 Islands, fis. 6d. 
 
 HARKUT. See Low's Stand. 
 Novels. 
 
 HARRIS, J., Evening Tales, (js. 
 • W. B., Land of an 
 
 African Sultan, 10s. 6d., 5s., and 
 2s. 6.i. 
 
 HARRISON, Mary, Modern 
 
 Cool-ery, Gs. and 3s. 6d. 
 
 Sh-ilftil Cook, u. ed. 3s. 6d. 
 
 • W., Lo7idon Houses, lUust. 
 
 n. edit., 2s. Gd. 
 
 ■ Memor. Paris Ho7isps, Q,s. 
 
 HATTON. See Low's Standard 
 
 Novels. 
 
 H A WEIS, YL.'R., Broad Church, 
 6s. 
 
 Poets in the Pulpit, new 
 
 edit. 6s. ; also 3s. Gd. 
 
 Mrs., Housekeeping, 2s. Gd. 
 
 — — Beautiful Houses, u. ed. Is. 
 
 HAYDN. See Great Musicians. 
 HAZLITT. See Eayard Ser. 
 HEAD, Percy R, See Illus. 
 
 Text Books and Great Artists. 
 
 HEARN, L., Youma, 5s. 
 
 HEATH, Gertrude, Tell us 
 
 Whv, 2s. 6./. 
 H EG'lNBOTHAi\r, Stockport, 
 
 I., IT., III., IV., v., 10s. 6a. each. 
 
 HELDMANN, B. See Low's 
 Standard Books for Boys. 
 
 HENTY, G. A. See Low's 
 Standard Books for Boys. 
 
 RiciiMOND,^w.s-/m/za«^/, 5,.-. 
 
 HERNDON, W. H , Life of A. 
 
 Lincrdn, 2 vols. 12.s. 
 
 HERRICK, R., Poetry Edited 
 
 bi/ Austin Dobson, illust. by E. A. 
 Abbey, 42s. 
 
 HERVEY, Gen., Records of 
 
 Crime, Thuggee, c^c, 2 vols., 30s. 
 HICKS, C. S., Our Botjs, and 
 
 luhat to do ivith Them ; Merchant 
 Service, 5s. 
 
 Yachts, Boats, and Canoes, 
 
 Design and Construction, 10s. Gd. 
 
 HILL, G. B., Footsteps of John- 
 son, 63s. ; edition dc luxe, 147s. 
 
 Katharine St., Gram- 
 mar of Palmistry, new ed., li. 
 
 HINMAN, R., Eclectic Physi- 
 cal Geography, 5s. 
 
 Hints on pi'oving Wills without 
 Professional Assistance, n. ed. Is. 
 
 Historic Bindings in the Bod- 
 leian Library, many plates, 
 94s. 6(/., S4s., 52.9. 6c/. and 42s. 
 
 HODDER, E., History of 
 
 Soidh Australia, 2 vols., 21s. 
 HOEY, Mrs. Cashel. See 
 
 Low's Standard Novels. 
 HOFFER, Caoutchouc <|- Gutta 
 
 Perchn, by W. T. Brannt, 12s. Gd. 
 
 HOFFMAN, C, Paper Maldng, 
 100s.
 
 In all Departments of Literature. 
 
 13 
 
 HOGARTH. See Gr. Artists, 
 
 and Dobson, Austin. 
 
 1 1 OLBE IN. See Great Artists. 
 
 HOLDER, CirARLEs F., Imnj 
 King, 8s. (nl. ; new ed. 3*. 6d. 
 
 Living Lif/hts, n. ed. Zs.Qcl. 
 
 HOLLTNGSHEAD, J., My 
 
 Life Time, 2 vols., 2 Is. 
 
 HOLMAN", T., Life in the 
 
 PiOyul Navy, 1.^. 
 
 Salt Yarns, new ed., Is. 
 
 HOLMES, 0. Wkndell, Before 
 
 the Curfew, 5s. 
 
 ■ Guardinn Angel, Is. and 
 
 2s. 6cL 
 
 Over the Tea Cups, Gs, 
 
 Iron Gate, &c., Poems, Qs. 
 
 Last Leaf, holiday Mo\.,i'2s. 
 
 Mechanism in Thought 
 
 and Morah, Is. 6d. 
 
 Mortal Antipathij, 'Ss. G<I., 
 
 2s. and Is. 
 
 Our LIundred Days in 
 
 Europe, new edit. 6s., 3s, 6cZ., and 
 2s. 6d., large paper, 15s. 
 — ^ Poetical Wor/iS, new edit., 
 2 vols. 10s. 6d. 
 
 WorJtS, prose, 10 vols. ; 
 
 poetry, 3 vols. ; 13 vols. 84s. 
 
 See also Low's Standard 
 
 Novels and Rose Library. 
 Homer, Iliad, translated Ijy A. 
 Way, vol. I., 9s. ; II., 9*. ; Odys- 
 sey, in English verso, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Horace in Latin, with Smart's 
 literal translation , 2s. Q>d. ; trans- 
 lation only. Is. Qd. 
 
 HOSIER, J., German. Lilera- 
 ture, a short history, 7s. Gd. 
 
 How and where to Fish in 
 Ireland, by Ui-Hegan, 8s. Gd. 
 
 HOWARD, Blanciik W., Tony 
 
 the Maid, 3s. Gd. 
 
 See also Low's Standard 
 
 Novels. 
 
 liO\YELLS,^Y.T). Undiscovered 
 
 Country, 3s. Gil. and Is. 
 HOWORTH, Sir ILIL, Glacial 
 
 Nightmare tf- the Flood, 2 vols., 30s. 
 
 ■ Mammoth and the Flood, 
 
 18.'. 
 HUEFFEIi. F. See Great 
 
 Musicians. 
 
 HUGHES, Hugh Price. See 
 Preachers. 
 
 W., Dark Africa, 2s. 
 
 HUGO'S Notre Dame, \0s. Gd. 
 
 HUME, Fergus, Creature of 
 the Night, Is. See also Low's 
 Standard Novels and Is. Novels. 
 
 HUMFREY, Mauiax, Obstetric 
 
 Nursing, 2 vols., 3s. Gd. each. 
 ILimorous Art at the IS' aval 
 
 Exhibition, Is. 
 
 HUMPHREYS, Jennet, Some 
 
 Little Britons in Briilang, 2s. Gd. 
 
 HUNTINGDOX, The Squires 
 Nieces, 2s. Gd. ( I' lay time Li br ary .) 
 
 HYDE, A Hundred Yearshij 
 Post, Jubilee Retrospect, Is. 
 
 HYNE, G. J., Sandg Car- 
 
 michael, 5s., 3s. Gd., and 2s. Gd. 
 
 Hymnal Companion to the 
 
 Book of Common^ Prayer, separate 
 lists gratis. 
 
 Illustrated Te.rt-Boohs of Art- 
 Edncation, edit, by E. J. Poyutcr, 
 11. A., 5s. each. 
 
 Arcliitcctnre, Classic and Early 
 Christian, by Smith and Slater. 
 
 Architecture, Gothic and Renais- 
 sance, by T. Roger Smith, 
 
 German, Flemish, and Dutch 
 Painting. 
 
 Painting, Classic and Italiun, by 
 Head, c^--. 
 
 Painting, English and American. 
 
 Sculpture, modern ; Leader Scott, 
 
 Sculpture, by G. Redford. 
 
 Spanish and French artists ; Smith. 
 
 Water Colour Painting, by Red- 
 grave.
 
 14 
 
 A Select List of Books 
 
 IXDERWICK. F. A., Inter- 
 regmim, 10s. 6d. 
 
 Prmmer of War, hg. 
 
 Kinrj Edward and Neu 
 
 Winchelsea, 10s. 6d. 
 Si(h>lif/hfs on the Sttiaii.<, 
 
 new edit. 7a-. Gd, 
 INGELOW, Jean. See Low's 
 
 Standard Novels. 
 INGLiy, Hon. JAJ>iE8,0tir New 
 
 Zealand Cousins, 6s. 
 Sport and Work on the 
 
 Nepaul Frontier, 21s. 
 
 Tejit Life in Tiger Land, 
 
 with coloared plates, ISs. 
 
 IRVING, W., LHtle Brdain, 
 
 lOs. fi,?. and fis. 
 JACKSON, John, Compeudiwm, 
 
 Is. 
 New Style Vertical Writing 
 
 Copi/-Eool;s, 1 — 15, 2d. each. 
 New Code Copy -Books, 
 
 25 Nos. 2d. each. 
 Shorthand of Arithmetic, 
 
 Compiinion to Arithmetics,!*. 6d. 
 
 Theory and Practice of 
 
 Handwriting, with diagrams, 5s. 
 
 JALKSON, Lowis, Ten Cen- 
 turies of European Progress, 3s. C>d. 
 JAMES, Croak E, Laiv and 
 
 Lawyers, new edit. 7s. C)d. 
 JAMES and UOL'G'S French 
 Dictionary, 3s. 6d. cloth ; roan, os. 
 
 JAMES, German Dictionary. 
 
 3s. Qd. cloth; ro.an, 5s. 
 
 JANVIER, Aziec Treamre 
 House, See also Low's Standard 
 Books, 
 
 Japanese Books, untearal)le. 
 
 1. Eat's Plaint, by Little, 5s. 
 
 2. Smith, Children's Japan, 3s. 6(7. 
 
 3. Branihall, Niponcse Rhymes, C)S. 
 
 4. Princess Splendor, fairy tale. 2s. 
 
 JEFFERIES, Richard, Ama- 
 ryllis at the Fair, 7s. 6d. 
 See also Low's Stan. Book>'. 
 
 JEFFERSON, R. L., A Wheel 
 
 fn Moscow, 2s. 6d. 
 
 JEPHSON, A. J. M., Emin 
 Pasha relief expedition, 21s. 
 
 Stories told in an African 
 
 Forest, 8s. fid. 
 
 JOHNSTON, H. H., The Congo, 
 
 from its Mouth to liJlobo, 21s. and 
 2s. Gd. 
 
 JOHNSTON-LAVIS, H. J., 
 
 South Italian Volcanoes, 15s. 
 
 JOHNSTONE, D. L., Land of 
 
 the Mouirtain Kingdom, 2s. 6d. 
 
 JOINVILLE. See Bayard Ser. 
 
 JONES, Rev. J. M. See 
 
 Preachers. 
 JULIEN, F., Conversational 
 
 French Reader, 2s. Gd. 
 
 English Student's French 
 
 jExamine>', 2s. 
 
 First Lessons iji Conversa- 
 tional French Grammar, n. ed. Is. 
 French at Home and at 
 
 School, Book I. accidence, 2s. ; 
 i key, 3s. 
 
 Petites Lemons de Conver- 
 sation et de Qrammaire, n. ed. 3s. 
 
 Petites Lemons, wifclx 
 
 phrases, 3s. Gd. 
 
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 separately, Gd. 
 
 KARR, H. W. Seton, Shores 
 and Alps of Alaska, 16s. 
 
 Keene (C), Life, by Layard, 
 24s.; l.p., 63s. nett; n. ed., 12s. Gd. 
 
 KENNEDY, E. B., Blacks a?id 
 Bushrangers, 5s., 3s. 6cZ.,and 2s. 6iZ. 
 
 Ouf of the Groove, 6s. 
 
 KERSHAW, S. W., Protest. 
 
 ants from France in their English 
 Home, 6.9. 
 
 KILNER, E. A., Four Welsh 
 
 Counties, r>s. 
 
 KINGSLEY, R, G., Children 
 
 of Westminster Abbey, 5s.
 
 In all Departments of Literature. 
 
 15 
 
 KINGSTON", W. H. G. See 
 
 Low's Standard Books. 
 KIEKALDY, AV. G., Barld 
 
 Kirkakhi's Mechanical 2\'sti)ig,8is. 
 
 KNIGHT, E. F., Cruise of the 
 
 Falcon, 7s. 6d. ; new edit. 2.s-. Gil. 
 KNOX, T. W., Boi/ Trai-elleys 
 
 with H. M. Stanley, new edit. os. 
 
 John BoycVs Adventuresfis. 
 
 K RUMMACHEK, Dictionary 
 
 Everyday German, .5s. 
 
 KUNHARDT, C. P., Small 
 
 Yachts, new edit. 50s. 
 
 Steam Yachts, I6s. 
 
 KWO:t^ G,Enr/Ush Phrases, 21.s'. 
 LABILLIERE, Federal Bri- 
 
 tain, 6s. 
 Lafaijette, General, Life, \2s. 
 LALANNE, Etching,' \-2s. inl. 
 LAMB, Ohas., Esmi/s of Eli' 1, 
 
 with designs by C. O. MniTay, (5s. 
 
 Landscape Painters of Holland. 
 
 See Great Artists. 
 LANDSEER. See Great Artists. 
 LANGE, P., Pictures of Nor- 
 
 v:ay, 52s. 6d. 
 
 LANIER, S., Boy's Froissart, 
 7s. 6d. ; King Arthur, 7s. 6d. ; 
 Percy, 7s. 6d. 
 
 LAN SD ELL, Henry, Through 
 
 Siberia, 2 vols., 30s. 
 
 Russian Central Atia, 
 
 2 vols. 42s. 
 
 Through Central Asia, 12s. 
 
 Chinese Central Asia, 2 
 
 vols., fully illustrated, 36s. 
 
 lARDEN, W., School Course on 
 Heat, 5th ed., entirely revised, 5s. 
 
 EARNED, W. C, CJnirches 
 and Castles, 10s. Gd. 
 
 LAURENCE, Sergeant, Auto- 
 biography, 6s. 
 
 LAURIE, A. See Low's Stand 
 
 LAWRENCE. Sec Ronincy 
 in Great Artists, 
 
 LAYARD, Mrs., TFesf Indies, 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 G.S., His Golf Mad ncss,\s. 
 
 See also Kccne. 
 
 LEA, H. C, Inquintion in the 
 
 Middle Ayes, 3 vol.s., 42s. 
 LEANING, J., /S/»eci/?C(^r//o?is,4^\ 
 LEAPED, A., Morocco, u. ed. 
 
 16s. 
 LEECH, H. J., John Brighfs 
 
 Lctteis, 5y. 
 
 LEFFINGWELL, AV. B, 
 
 Shooting, 18s. 
 
 Wild Foivl Shooting, 
 
 lOs. Gd. 
 
 LEFROY, AY., Dean of Nor- 
 wich. See Preachers of the Age. 
 
 LEIBBRAND, Dr., This Age 
 Ours, Gs. 
 
 Leo A'lIL Life, I8s. 
 
 Leonardo da Vinci. See Great 
 
 Artists. 
 Literari) Works, by J, P. 
 
 Richter, 2 v'ols. 252s. 
 
 LEVETT YEATS, S. See 
 
 Low's Stmdard Novels. 
 
 LIEBER, TelegrajiJiic Cipher, 
 
 42s. nett. 
 Like unto Christ. See Gentle 
 
 Life Series. 
 I^incoln, Abraham, true story of 
 
 a great life, 2 vols., 12s. 
 
 LITTLE, Arch. J., Yang-tse 
 
 Gorges, n. ed., 10s. Gd. 
 See also Japanese Books. 
 
 LITTLE, AV. J. KNOX-. See 
 
 Preachers of the Age. 
 Little Masters of Germany. See 
 
 Great Artists. 
 LODGE, Life of George Wa.di- 
 
 ingtov, 12s. 
 
 LOFTIE, AY. J., Orient Line 
 
 Guide, 3s. Gd. 
 
 LONG, James, Farmer's Hand- 
 book, 4s. 6d,
 
 i6 
 
 A Select List of Books 
 
 LONGFELLOW, J/rtiV7(.?,AoorZ, 
 with coloured plates, 2s. 6i7. 
 
 Ntireinhcvg, photogravure 
 
 illustrations, 31s. (icf. 
 
 Song of Iliaivntha, 21 6". 
 
 LOOMLS, !•:., Advonowii, &.Gr7. 
 LOKD, Mrs. Euewen, Talcs 
 
 from Wcatminstcr Abbey, 2->'. 6d. ; 
 new edTcion, Is. 
 
 Tales from St. Taul's, Is. 
 
 LORNE, Marquis of, Canada 
 
 and Scotland, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Sec also Prime Ministers. 
 
 Louis, St. See Baj'ard Scries. 
 Lo7o's Chemical Lecture Charts, 
 
 31s. 6d. 
 French Readers, ed. by C. F. 
 
 Clifton, I. 3d, II. 3c?., III."6cl. 
 
 German Series. See 
 
 Goethe, Meissner, Sandars, and 
 Schiller. 
 
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 ally, Is. ChI. ; sewed, l.«. 
 
 Ilhidraied Germ. Primer, Is. 
 
 Infant Primers, I. illus. 
 
 2d. ; II. ilhis. M. 
 
 PocJiet Encyclojxedia, with 
 
 plates, 3s. Qd. ; roan, 4s. Qd. 
 Readers, Edited by John 
 
 Gill, I., M. ; II., lOJ. ; III., Is.; 
 
 IV., Is. M.; v., Is. \d ; VI., 
 
 Is. Qd. 
 
 Low's Stajid. Librari/ of Travel 
 
 and Adventure. 2s. 6d. per vol. 
 
 Ashe (R. P.), Two Kings of Uganda; 
 also 3s. 6d. 
 
 Butler (Sir W. F.) The Great Lono 
 Land : A Record of Travel and 
 Adventure in North and West 
 America. 
 
 Churchill (Lord R.), Men, i\Iines, 
 and Animals in South Africa. 
 
 Harris (W. B.), The Land of an 
 African Sultan : Travels in Mo- 
 rocco. 
 
 Holmes (Dr. O. W.), Our Hundred 
 Days in Europe, 
 
 Louis Stand. Library of Travel — 
 
 continued. 
 
 .Tohiiston (II. II.), The RiverCongo, 
 from its Mouth to Bolobo. 
 
 Knight (E. F.), Cruise of the Falcon : 
 A Voyage to South America in a 
 Thirty. Ton Yacht; also 3s. (j-V. 
 
 Spry (W. J. J.), The Cruiso of the 
 CliaUcnfjcr ; also 7s. fid. 
 
 Stanley (H. M.) How I Found Liv- 
 ingstone; also 3s. 6fi. 
 
 Wingato (Major F. R.), Ten Years' 
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 Low's Standard Novels, Lihrarij 
 
 Edition (except where price is 
 
 stated), cr. 8vo., 6s.; also popular 
 
 edition (marked with *), small 
 
 post 8vo, 2s. 6t/. 
 Baker, John Westacott, 3s. Qi. 
 
 Mark Tillotson. 
 
 *Black (William) Adventures in 
 
 Thulo. 
 
 * The Besmtifnl Wretch. 
 
 * Daughter of Heth. 
 
 * Donald Ross of Hcimra. 
 
 * Green Pastures & Piccadilly. 
 
 The Handsome Humes. 
 
 Highland Cousins. 
 
 * In Far Lochabcr. 
 
 * In Silk Attire. 
 
 * Judith Shakespeare. 
 
 * Kilmeny. 
 
 * LadySilverdalo's Sweetheart. 
 
 * Macleod of Dare. 
 
 * Madcap Violet. 
 
 The Magic Ink. 
 
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 * The Penance of John Logan, 
 
 * Princess of Thule. 
 
 * Sabina Zembra. 
 
 * Shandon Bells. 
 
 * Stand Fast, Craig Rojston ! 
 
 * Strange Adventures of a 
 
 House Boat. 
 * Strange Adventures of a 
 
 Phaeton. 
 
 * Sunrise. 
 
 * Three Feathers.
 
 In all Departments of Literatui e. 
 
 17 
 
 Lores Stavd. Novels — coyitinucd. 
 
 *Black (William) White Heather. 
 
 * White Wings. 
 
 • Wise Womeu of Inverness. 
 
 Wolfenberg. 
 
 * Yolande. 
 
 *Blackmore (R. D.) Alice Lorraine. 
 
 * — ■ — Christowell. 
 
 * Clara Vanghan. 
 
 * Cradock Nowell. 
 
 * Cripps the Carrier. 
 
 * • Erema, or My Father's Sin. 
 
 * Kit and Kitty. 
 
 * Lorna Doone. 
 
 * Mary Aiierley. 
 
 Perlycross. 
 
 * Springbaven. 
 
 * Tommy Upmoro. 
 
 Bremont, Gentleman Digger. 
 
 *Brown (Robert) Jack Abbott's 
 Log. 
 
 Bynner, Agnes Surriage, 
 
 Begum's Daughter. 
 
 Cable (G. W.) Bonaventure, 5s. 
 
 John March, Southerner. 
 
 Carmichael (H.), Rooted in Dis- 
 honour. 
 
 Catherwood (M. II.), Lady of Fort 
 St. John. 
 
 Coleridge (C. R.) English Squire. 
 
 Craddock, Despot of Broomsedge. 
 
 *Croker (Mrs. B. M.)Some One Else. 
 
 *Cumberland (Stuart) Vasty Deep. 
 
 DeLeon,Undcr the Stars& Crescent. 
 
 *Edwards (Miss Betham) Half-way. 
 
 Eggleston, Juggernaut. 
 
 Emerson (P. H.), Son of the Fens. 
 
 Eyre-Todd, Anne of Argyle. 
 
 French Heiress in her own Chateau. 
 
 Gilliat, Story of the Dragonnades. 
 
 Harkut, The Conspirator. 
 
 *Hatton, Old House at Sandwich. 
 
 * Three Recruits. 
 
 Hicks (J.), Man from Oshkosh. 
 
 *Hoey(Mrs. Cashel)Golden Sorrow. 
 
 ■ Out of Court. 
 
 • Stern Chase. 
 
 *Holmes (0. W.), Guardian AngeL 
 
 * • Over the Teacups. 
 
 Howard (Blanche W.) Open Door. 
 
 Hume (Fergus), Fever of Life. 
 
 ■ — ■ Gates of Dawn. 
 
 Logo's Stand. Novels — continued. 
 
 Ingelow (Jean) Don John. 
 
 ■ ■ John Jerome, bs. 
 
 Sarah de Berenger. 
 
 Lathrop, Newport, 5^-. 
 IMacalpine, A Man's Conscience. 
 *MacDonald (Geo.) Adcla Cathcart. 
 
 * Guild Court. 
 
 * Mary Marston. 
 
 * • A Dish of Orts. 
 
 * Stephen Archer, A'c. 
 
 * The Vicar's Daughter. 
 
 * Weighed and Wanting. 
 
 Macniaster, Our Pleasant Vices. 
 Martin, Even Mine Own Familiar 
 
 Friend. 
 Musgrave (Mrs.) Miriam. 
 *01iphant, Innocent. 
 Osboru, Spell of Ashtaroth, bs. 
 Penderel (R.) Wilfred Waide. 
 Pendleton, Sons of Ham, 5s. 
 Prince Maskiloff. 
 Raife (R.), Sheik's White Slave. 
 "■Riddell (Mrs.) Alaric Spencoloy. 
 
 * Daisies and Buttercups. 
 
 * Senior Partner. 
 
 Strusrgle for Fame. 
 
 *Russe]l (V. Clark) Betwixt the 
 
 Forelands. 
 
 The Emigrant Ship. 
 
 * Frozen Pirate. 
 
 * Jack's Courtship. 
 
 * John Holdsworth. 
 
 * liictle Loo, 
 
 * The Lady Maud. 
 
 * ]\[rs. Dines' Jewels. 
 
 * ■ My Watch Below. 
 
 * An Ocean Free Lance. 
 
 * A Sailor's Sweetheart. 
 
 * The Sea Queen. 
 
 * A Strange Voyage. 
 
 * Wreck of the Grosvenor. 
 
 Ryce, Rector of Amesty. 
 Steuart, In the Day of Battle. 
 
 Kilgroom. 
 
 Stockton (F. R.) Ardis Claverdon. 
 
 Bee-man of Orn, 5s. 
 
 * Dusantesand Mrs. Locks and 
 
 Mrs. Aleshine, 1 vol., 2s. 6d. aud 
 
 2s. only. 
 
 Hundredth Man. 
 
 The late Mrs. Null.
 
 ig 
 
 A Select List of Books 
 
 Loio'f Stand. Novels — continued. 
 Stoker (Bram) Snake's Pass. 
 Stowe (Airs.) Pogauuc People. 
 Thanet (O.), Stories of a Western 
 
 Town. 
 Thomas, House on the Scar. 
 Thomson (Joseph) Ula. 
 Tourgee, Murvale Eastman. 
 Tytler (S.) Duchess Frances. 
 *V'ane, From the Dead. 
 
 Polish Conspiracy. 
 
 *Walford (Mrs.), Her Great Idea. 
 Warner, liittleJourney in the World . 
 Wilcox, Senora Villena. 
 Woolson (Constance F.) Anne. 
 
 ■ East Angels. 
 
 For the Major, 5s 
 
 Jupiter Lights. 
 
 Yeats (S. L.), Honour of Savolli. 
 
 Low^s ShilUng Novels. 
 Edwards, Dream of Millions. 
 Emerson, East Coast Yarns. 
 
 Signer Lippo. 
 
 Evans, Upper Ten. 
 Forde, Subaltern, &c. 
 
 Trotter : a Poona Mystery. 
 
 Hewitt, Oriel Penhaligon. 
 Holman, Life in the Royal Navy. 
 
 Salt Yarns. 
 
 Hume (F.), Creature of the Night. 
 
 Chinese Jar. 
 
 Ignotus; Visitors' Book. 
 Layard, His Golf Madness. 
 Married by Proxy. 
 Rux, Roughing it after Gold. 
 
 Through the Mill. 
 
 Vane, Lynn's Court Mystery. 
 Vesper, Bobby, a Story. 
 
 Low's Standard Boohs for Boys, 
 
 with numerous illustrations, 
 2s. Qd. each; gilt edges, 3.?. 6J. 
 
 Ainslie, Priceless Orchid. 
 
 Biart (Lucien) Young Naturalist. 
 
 My Rambles in the New World. 
 
 Boussenard, Crusoes of Guiana, 
 
 Gold Seekers, a sequel. 
 
 Butler (Col. Sir Wm.) Rod Cloud. 
 
 Cahnn (Leon) Captain Mago. 
 
 Blue Banner. 
 
 Celiere, Exploits of the Doctor. 
 
 Loto's Stand. Boolcs for Boij:' — • 
 
 continued. 
 Collingwood,Under the Meteor Flag 
 
 Voyage of the Aurora. 
 
 Cozzens(S. W.) Marvellous Country. 
 
 Dodge (Mrs.) Hans Brinker. 
 
 Du Chaillu (Paul) Gorilla Country. 
 
 Wild Life on the Equator. 
 
 Erckmann-C Latvian, Br OS. Ran tzau. 
 Evelyn, Inca Queen. 
 Fenn(G.Manvillc)Offto the Wilds. 
 
 Silver Canon. 
 
 The Black Bar. 
 
 Groves(Percy)Charmouth Grange. 
 Heldmann (B.) Li^andcr Mutiny. 
 Henty (G. A.) Cornet of Horse. 
 Jack Archer. 
 
 Winning his Spurs. 
 
 Hyne, Sandy Carmichael. 
 Janvier, Aztec Treasure House. 
 Jefferies (Richard) Bevis, Story of 
 
 a Boy. 
 Johnstone, Mountain Kingdom. 
 Kennedy, Blacks and Bushrangers. 
 Kingston (W. U. G.) Ben Burton. 
 Captain Mugford. 
 
 Dick Cheveley. 
 
 Heir of Kilfinnan. 
 
 Snowshoes and Canoes. 
 
 Two Supercargoes. 
 
 With Ase and Rifle. 
 
 Laurie (A.) Axel Eberson. 
 
 Conquest of the Moon. 
 
 New York to Brest. 
 
 Secret of the Magian. 
 
 MacGregor (John) Eo6 Roy Canoe. 
 
 Roh Roy in the Baltic. 
 
 Yawl Roh Roy. 
 
 Maclean, Maid of the Golden Age. 
 
 Mael, P., Under the Sea to the 
 Pole. 
 
 Malan (A. N.) Cobbler of Corui- 
 kerauinm. 
 
 Meunier, Great Hunting Grounds. 
 
 Muller, Noble Words and Deeds. 
 
 Norway (G.) How Martin Drake 
 found his Father. 
 
 Perelacr, The Three Deserters. 
 
 Reed (Talbot Baines) Roger Ingle- 
 ton, Minor. 
 
 Sir Lndar. 
 
 Reid (Mayne) Strange Adventures.
 
 Ill all Departynents of Literature. 
 
 19 
 
 hole's Stand. Bools for Boys — 
 
 continued. 
 Eousselet (Louis) Drummer-boy. 
 
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 ■ Son of the Constable. 
 
 Russell (W. Claik) Frozen Pirate. 
 Stanley, My Kalulu. 
 Tregance, Louis, in New Guinea. 
 Van Uare, Lifo of a Showman. 
 Verne, Adrift in the Pacific. 
 
 • Cajsar Cascabel. 
 
 ■ Family without a Name. 
 
 ■ Purchase of the North Pole. 
 
 Winder (F. H.) Lost in Africa. 
 
 Low's Standard Series of Girls' 
 
 Bool's by popular writers, cloth 
 gilt, 2s. ; gilt edges, 'J,s. 6d. each. 
 
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 Aunt Jo's Scrap Bag. 
 
 Eight Cousins, illust. 
 
 Jack and Jill. 
 
 Jimmy's Cruise. 
 
 Little' Men. 
 
 Little Women & L. Wo. Wedded 
 
 Lulu's Library, illust. 
 
 - — - Kecollectious of Childhood. 
 
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 Spinning- Wheel Stories. 
 
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 Work and Beginning Again, ill. 
 
 Aldon (W. L.) Jimmy Brown, illust. 
 
 Tiying to Find Earope. 
 
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 De Witt (Madame) An Only Sister. 
 Franc (Maud J.), Stories, 2s. 6d. 
 
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 liobinson (Phil) Indian Garden. 
 
 Under the Punkah. 
 
 Eoe (E. P.) Nature's Serial.Story. 
 
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 Samuels, Forecastle to Cabin, illust. 
 
 Sandeau (Jules) Seagull Rock. 
 
 Stowe (Mrs.) Dred. 
 
 — — ■ Ghost in tho Mill, Sec. 
 
 Minister's Wooing. 
 
 My Wife and I. 
 
 • We and our Neighbours. 
 
 Low's Standard Series of Books 
 
 for Girls — continued.. 
 Tooley (Mrs.) Harriet B. Stowe. 
 Warner, In the Wilderness. 
 
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 Whitney (Mrs.) Leslie Goldthwaite. 
 Faith Gartney's Girlhood. 
 
 — ■ — The Gayworthys. 
 
 • Hitherto. 
 
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 We Girls. 
 
 The Other Girls : a Sequel. 
 
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 Boolis, I. and IL, 7s. 6d. each. 
 
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 illus. 63s. 
 
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 to California, 6s. 
 
 Land of Poco Tiempo 
 
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 MACDOX ALD, J)., Oceanians. 
 
 Siceet Scented Flowers, 5s. 
 
 ■ George. See Low's Stand. 
 
 Novels. 
 
 Sir John A., Life, I6s. 
 
 MACGOUN, Commercial Cor- 
 
 resiKiiuh.'nce, 5.?. 
 
 MACGEEGOR, J., Bob Boy in 
 
 the Baltic, n. ed. 3s. 6d. and 2s. 6d. 
 
 Boh Boy Canoe, new edit., 
 
 3s. 6d. and is. Cd. 
 
 Yatrl Bob Boy, new edit., 
 
 3s. Gd. and 2s. Gd. 
 INLICKEXXA, Brare Men in 
 
 Actio7i. 10s. C)d. 
 
 MACKENZIE, Sir Morell, 
 
 Fatal Illness of Frederick the 
 Nolle, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Es'^ays, 7s. Gd. 
 
 MACKINXOX and SHAD- 
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 MACLEAX, IL E. See Low's 
 Standard Books.
 
 20 
 
 A Select List of Books 
 
 MACMASTER. See Low's 
 
 Standai'd Novels. 
 MAC MULLEN, J. ]\r,, llidory 
 
 of Canada, 3rd ed., 2 vols., 25s. 
 
 MACMURDO, E., Ilistorij of 
 
 Poriufjal, 3 vols., 21s. each. 
 MAEL, PiEURE, Under the Sea 
 
 to the North Pole, 5s. and 2s. Qd. 
 MAHAN, Capt. a. T.^ Admiral 
 
 Farragut, Qs. 
 
 Influence of Sea Paicer 
 
 on the French Revolutinn, 2 vols. 
 (British uaval history), 30s. 
 
 Sea Foicer in Hit^iorij, 18s. 
 
 MAIN, Mrs., My Home in the 
 Alp^, 3s. 6cL 
 
 Hints on Sno.v Photo- 
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 See also Buniaby, Mrs. 
 
 MAL AN. SecLow'sStand. Books 
 
 C. E. DE M , Eric awl 
 
 Connie's Cruise, 5s. 
 
 Manchester Library, Reprints 
 of Classics, per vol., 6cf. ; sewed, 
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 Fishinfj, 8s. 
 
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 with coloured plates, &c.,2-ls.nett. 
 
 MARCH, F, A., Comparatice 
 
 An'jlo-Saxon Grammar, 12s. 
 Anglo-Saxon Reader, 7s. 6d. 
 
 MARKHAM, Adm., A^aval 
 Career during the old war. 14s. 
 
 Clements R., War Be- 
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 MARSH, A. E. W., Holiday 
 in Madeira, 5s. 
 
 G. P., Lectures on the 
 
 English Language, 18s. 
 
 Origin and History of the 
 
 English Language, 18s. 
 
 MARSHALL, W. G., Through 
 
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 MARSTON, E, How Stanley 
 
 wrote " In Darkest Africa," Is. 
 See also Amateur Angler, 
 
 Frank's llanche, and Fresh 
 
 Woods. 
 R. B., Walton and Some 
 
 Earlier Angling Writers, 4s. Od. 
 See also Walton's " Coin- 
 
 pleat Angler." 
 
 Westland, Eminent 
 
 Recent Actors, n. ed., 6s. 
 
 MARTIN, J. W,, Float Fish- 
 ing and Spinning, new edit. 2s. 
 MATHESON, Annie, Love's 
 
 Music, and other lyrirv, 3s. 6d. 
 
 MATTHEWS, J. W.. Incwadi 
 
 lai^ft, 20 Years in S. Africa, 14s. 
 
 MAUCHLINE, Robert, Mine 
 
 Foreman' s Handbook, 21s. 
 
 MAURY, M. F., Life, 1 -Is. 6d. 
 
 MAURY, M. F., Pliysical Geo- 
 graphy and Meteorology of the 
 Sea, new ed. 6s. 
 
 MAURY, Genl. H,, Recollec- 
 
 tinns, 7s. 6d. 
 
 MEISSNER, A. L., Children's 
 
 Own German Book (Low's .Series), 
 
 Is. 6d. 
 First German Reader 
 
 (Low's Series), Is. (><?. 
 Second German Reader 
 
 (Low's Series), l*'. Gd. 
 MEISSONIER. See Great 
 
 MELBOURNE, Lord. See 
 
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 MELIO, G. L., Swedish Brill, 
 
 entirely new edition, 2s. Ctd. 
 Member for Wrottenhorough, 
 
 by Arthur a'Beckett, 3s. Gd. 
 Men of Achievement, ^s. Qd. each. 
 
 Noah Brooks, Statesmen. 
 
 Gen. A. W. Greeley, Explorers. 
 
 Philip G. Hubert, Inventors. 
 
 W. O. Stoddard, H/ert of Business.
 
 In all Departments of Literature. 21 
 
 MENDELSSOHN. Family, 
 1729-1847, Letters and Journals, 
 new edit., 2 vols., 30.';. 
 
 See also Great Musicians. 
 
 MERIWETHER, Lee, Medi- 
 
 terranean, new ed. , 6s. 
 
 MERRYLEES, J., Carlsbad, 
 
 new edition, 3a'. 6d. 
 
 MERRIFIELD, J., Nauiical 
 
 Astronomy, 7s. (id. 
 
 MESNEY,W., Tu7i[/Jci7i(j,3s. Gd. 
 
 Metal Worlerii^ Recipe^; and 
 
 Processes.hj W. T. Brannt, 12s. G.i. 
 
 MEUNIER, V, See Low's 
 
 Standard Books. 
 Michelangelo. See Great Artists. 
 MIJATOVlCH, C., Gomtan. 
 
 iine, 7s. 6J. 
 MILL, James. See English 
 
 Philosophers. 
 
 MILLS, J., Alternative Chem- 
 istry, answers to the ordinary 
 coarse, Is. 
 
 Alternative Elementaru 
 
 Chemistry, Is. 6t7. ; answers, !,'■. 
 
 J., Cliemidry for 
 
 students, 3s. Gel. 
 
 MILNE, J., AND BURTON, 
 
 Volcanoes of Japan, collotypes by 
 Ogawa, part i., 21s. nett. 
 MITCHELL, D.G.(Ik. J^fawel) 
 
 English Lands, Letters and Kings, 
 2 vols. 6s. each. 
 
 Writi7i(jf.<, new edit, per 
 
 MITFORD, J., Letters, 3s. Gd. 
 
 Miss, Ctir Village, illus. 5.-;. 
 
 MODY, Mrs., German Litera- 
 
 twp, outlines, Is. 
 
 MOFFATT, W., Land' and 
 
 Woik, 5s. 
 MOINET. See Preachers. 
 MOLLETT. See Great Artists. 
 MOLONEY, J. A., With Cap- 
 
 tain Stairs to Kutunga, 8s. GJ. 
 
 MONKHOUSE. See G. Artists. 
 
 Montaigne's Essays, revised by 
 
 J. Hain Friswell, 2s. GcZ. 
 MONTBARD (G.), Among the 
 
 Moors, Ifis. ; ed. de Luxe, 63s. 
 UOORY.,;i .ll.,New Zealand for 
 
 Erni'i rant, Invalid, and Tourist, o.f. 
 
 MORLEY, Henuy, English 
 
 Literature in the Reign of Victoria, 
 2s. G(?. 
 MORSE, E, ^., Japanese Homes, 
 
 new edit. 10s. Cid. 
 
 ]\IORTEN,H., Hospital Life, 1 .s-. 
 
 Illnesses tj* Accidents, 2s. 6d. 
 
 & GETHEN, Tales of the 
 
 Children's Ward, 3s. Gd. 
 
 MORTI^IER, J., Chess Player's 
 
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 MOSS, F. J., Great South Sea, 
 Atolls and Islands, 8s. 6d. 
 
 MOTTI, PiETRO, Elementary 
 
 liussian Gramuiar, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Russian Conrersation 
 
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 MOULE, H.C.G. SeePrcachers. 
 MOUTON, E., Adventures of a 
 
 Breton Boy, s's. 
 
 MOXLY, West India Sana- 
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 ]\10ZART. See Gr. Musicians. 
 
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 Culture, 5s. 
 
 MULLER,E. See Low's Stand- 
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 MULLIN, J. p., Moulding and 
 
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 MULREADY. See Gt. Artists. 
 :MURD0CH, Ayame Sa7i, a Ja- 
 panese Roniance, 30s. nett. 
 MURILLO. See Great Artists. 
 MURPHY, Bei/ond the Ice, 
 
 from Farloigli'.s Diary, 3s. GJ. 
 
 MUSGRAVE, INIrs. See Low's 
 
 Standard Novels. 
 My Comforter, cj"c., Religious 
 
 Poems, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Napoleon I. See Bayard Series.
 
 22 
 
 A Select List of Books 
 
 Napoleon I., Decline and Fall of. 
 
 See Wolseley. 
 NELSOX, WoLFiiED, Panama, 
 
 the Canal, &c., 6.v. 
 NeUou'sWords aiidDeeds, 3.s'. Gil. 
 
 NETHEKCOTE, r>/tchle>/ 
 
 Hunt, 8s. Gd. 
 Neio Zealand, chromos, hy ]5;ir- 
 
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 NICHOLS, W. L., auantochs, 
 
 55.; large paper, 10.--. Qd. 
 NICOLS, A., SalmonidcE, hs. 
 
 Niiieteenth Ceiitury, a ^lonthly 
 
 Eeview, 2s. 6d. per No. 
 NISBET, Hume, Life and 
 
 Xahiro Studic!^, illustrated, C^s. 
 
 Nl\ EN, n., Angler's Lexicon,Gs. 
 NORMAN, C. B., Cor.-<airs of 
 
 France, 18s. 
 
 NORMAN, J. H., Monetanj 
 
 Systems nfihe World, lO.s. M. 
 
 Ready Bechmer of Foreign 
 
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 NORWAY, 50 photogravures 
 
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 S., IIow Martin J) rake, 
 
 5s. and 2s. Gd. 
 NOTTAGE, C. G., In Search 
 
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 O'BRIEN, Fifhj Yea}:-i of Con- 
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 OGAWA, Open-Air Life in 
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 in Japan, 12s. nett. 
 
 OGDEN, J., Fly-tying, 2s. 6d. 
 
 OhricaJdei-'s Ten Years' Cap- 
 tivity ; Mahdi's Camp, 6s. & 2s. Gd. 
 
 Orient Line Guide, fourth edit. 
 by W. J. Loftie, 3s. Gd. 
 
 OKTOLI, Fcening Tales, done 
 into English by J. C. Harris, Gs. 
 
 ORVIS, C. F., Fly Fishing, 
 with coloured plates, 12s. Gd. 
 
 OSBORN, H. S., Prospector's 
 Guide, 8s. 6(/. 
 
 OTTO, E., French and German 
 Grammars, Sfc. List on applica- 
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 Our Little Ones in Heaven, 5s. 
 
 Out of Doors Life in Japan, 
 
 Barton's photos. See O^awa. 
 OtU of School at Eton, 2s. Qd. 
 
 OVERBECK. See Great Artists. 
 
 OWEN, Marine Lisurance, 15«. 
 
 PAGE, T. N., Marse Chan, 
 illast. 6s. 
 
 Mcli Lady, a Story of Old 
 
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 PALAZ, A., [itdustrial Photo- 
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 PALGRAVE, R. E. D. Chair- 
 
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 Oliver Cromwell, lOs. Gd. 
 
 PALLISER, Mks. Bury, China 
 
 Collectiir's Companion, 5s. 
 
 History of Lace, n. ed. 21.<f. 
 
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 PARKE, T. H., Emin Pasha 
 
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 Health in Africa, hs. 
 
 PARKER, E. H., Chinese Ac- 
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 J., Thermo Dynamics, 
 
 10s. Gd. 
 
 PARKS, Leighton, Winning 
 
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 PATTERSON, CAPT., Navi- 
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 PEACH, Annals of SwainswicJc, 
 near Bath, 10s. GJ. 
 
 Peel. See Prime Ministers. 
 
 PELLESCHF, G., Gran Chaco 
 
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 PEMBERTON, G.,Tyrol,\s.id.
 
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 PHELPS, E. S., Struggle for 
 
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 S.\MDEL, n/e, by W. Isl. 
 
 Phelps & Forbes-Robertson, 12s. 
 
 PHILBRICK, r. A., AND 
 
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 Stamjys, 10s. Gd. 
 PHILLIMORE, C. M., Italian 
 
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 See alsoGt. Artists, Fra An. 
 
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 E., How to Become a Jonr- 
 
 7ialift, 2s. Gd. 
 
 W., Law of Fn.mrance, 2 
 
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 POE, E. A., Earen, ill. by G. 
 
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 Poems of the Inner Life, 5s. 
 Poetrij of the Anti- Jacobin J s. Gd. 
 POPE, W. H., Fly Fishc/s 
 
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 12s. Gd. 
 PORCHER, A., Juvenile 
 
 French Plays, with Notes, Is. 
 
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 POSSELT, Structure oj Fibres, 
 
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 Verhxim Crucis, by the Bishop of 
 
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 Ethical Christianity, by Hugh P 
 
 Hughes. 
 Knowledge of God, by the Bishop 
 ■ of Wakefield. 
 
 Light and Peace, by H. R. Reynolds. 
 Journey of Life, by "W. J. Knox- 
 
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 Messages to the Multitude, by 
 
 C. H. Spurgeon. 
 Christ is All, by H. C. G. Moule.M.A. 
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 24 
 
 A Select List of Books 
 
 Prime Ministers, a sories of 
 political biographies, edited by 
 Stuart J. lleid, 'is. Qd. eaoli. 
 
 Earl of Bcaconsfield, by J. Anthony 
 Froude. 
 
 Viscount Melbourne, by Ucury 
 Dunckley (" Vcrav"). 
 
 Sir llobcrt Peel, by Justin 
 McCarthy. 
 
 Viscount Palmcrston, by the Mar- 
 quis of Lome. 
 
 Lord John Russell, by Stuart J. 
 Keid. 
 
 Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone, by 
 G. W. E. Russell. 
 
 Earl of Aberdeen, by Baron Stan- 
 more. 
 
 Marquis of Salisbury, by IL D. 
 Traill. 
 
 Earl of Derby, by G. Saintsbury. 
 
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 medium Svo, half vellum, cloth 
 sides, gilt top, 9 vols, 41. 4*. nett. 
 
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 Standard Novels. 
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 new edit. 2.«. 6cl. 
 
 PRITT, T. ^., North Country 
 
 Flies, coloured plates, 10s. Gd. 
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 Purcell. Sec Greiit Musicians. 
 PYLE, Howard, Boh in J food, 
 
 10s. 6d. 
 QUILTER, Harry, Giutto, Life, 
 
 ^c. 15s. See also (Jreat Artists. 
 RAFTER & BAIv1':R, Sewage 
 
 Disposal, 24s. 
 
 RAIEE, R., Sheik's White 
 
 Slave, 6s. 
 RAPHAEL. See Great Artists. 
 REDFORD, SculiAure. Sec 
 
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 REDGRAVE, Century of Eng- 
 lish Painters, new ed., 7s. 6d. 
 
 REED, T. B. See Low's Sfc.Bks. 
 
 REID, Mayne, CArTAiN. See 
 Low's Standard Books. 
 
 REIDjStuabtJ. See Prime Mill. 
 Remarkahle Bindings in British 
 
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 REMBRANDT. Sec Gr. Artists. 
 RE Y NOLDS. See Gr. Artists. 
 REMUSA1\ MADAME DE, 
 
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 Henry R. See Prcacliers. 
 
 RICH ARDS, J. W. , A luminium, 
 
 new edit. 21.s. 
 
 RTCHTER, Italian Art in the 
 
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 See also Great Artists. 
 
 RIDDELL, Mrs. J. H. See 
 
 I;()w's Standard Novels. 
 RIPON, Br. OF. See Preachers. 
 RIVIERE, J., Recollections, 
 
 3s. Qd. 
 ROBERTS, Lord, Rise of 
 
 Wellington, 3s. Qd. 
 W., English Booh-elling, 
 
 earlier history, 3s. 6i. 
 
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 Vaolo Sarpi, 6s. 
 
 Count Camj)ello, 5,s'. 
 
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 ROBINSON, H. P., Works on 
 
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 See also Low's Stan. Ser. 
 
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 illust., 12s. G</. 
 Last Earls of Barrymore, 
 
 12s. 6(7. 
 " Old Q." 7s. 6d. and 21.'?. 
 
 " Ro7neo " Coafes, 7s. Gd. 
 
 ROCKSTRO, History of Music, 
 
 new ed. 14s. 
 
 RODRIGUESjPaftawa Can.,5s.
 
 In all Departments of LiteVatiLve. 
 
 25 
 
 ROE, E. P. See Low's St. Ser. 
 ROLFE, Po/»^>eti, n. ed., 7*;. GJ., 
 
 with Photos, 14s. 
 
 ROMNEY. See Great Artists. 
 ROOPER, G., Thames and 
 
 Tweed, 2s. Gd. 
 
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 Self-Taught, 16s. 
 
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 Alcott (L. M.) Eight Cousins, 2s. 
 Jack and Jill, 2s. 
 
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 Old-fashioned Girls, 2s.; cloth, 
 
 3s. 6(f. 
 
 Rose in Bloom, 2s. ; cl. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Silver Pitchers. 
 
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 Stowe (Mrs.) Pearl of Orr's Island. 
 
 Minister's Wooing. 
 
 We and Our Neighbours, 2s. 
 
 - My Wife and I, 2s. 
 
 Dred, 2s. ; cl. gt., 3s. 6d. 
 
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 Farm Festivals, 3 vols, in 1, 
 
 cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. 
 • — — Farm Legends, 3 vols, in 1, 
 
 cloth gilt, 3s. fid. 
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 Hose Librari/ — Continued. 
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 ■ Story of Helen Troy. 
 
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 ROSSINI, &c. See Great Mus. 
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 Roughing it after Gold, by Rux, 
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 Standard Books. 
 
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 See Prime Ministers. 
 
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 3s. fid. 
 
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 Russia's March towards Lidia, 
 
 by an Indian Officer, 2 eols., 16s. 
 Russian Art, \i\bs. 
 St. Duustan's Library, Zs. Qd. 
 
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 2. Corona of the Nantahalas, by 
 L. Pendleton. 
 
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 4. Love Affairs of an Old Maid, 
 by L. Bell. 
 
 Saints and their Symbols, 3s. 6d. 
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