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 i: ^ K ri
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES
 
 [Frontispiece.
 
 Australian Sketches 
 
 Made on Tour 
 
 BY 
 
 HARRY FURNISS 
 
 LONDON 
 
 WARD, LOCK AND CO. LIMITED 
 
 NEW YORK AND MELBOURNE
 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 RUNNING THE QUARANTINE BLOCKADE 9 
 
 A PEEP AT ALBANY, WEST AUSTRALIA 14 
 
 MEMS. ABOUT MELBOURNE , 21 
 
 RACING IN AUSTRALIA 29 
 
 A SUBURBAN RACE MEETING 37 
 
 SIDE-LIGHTS ON SYDNEY 42 
 
 MEMS. IN SYDNEY 45 
 
 *'THE DOMAIN," SYDNEY 47 
 
 CHARACTER SKETCHES IN SYDNEY 53 
 
 MANLY: THE BRIGHTON OF AUSTRALIA 59 
 
 A VISIT TO ADELAIDE 65 
 
 FOOTBALL NOTES 71
 
 Some of these impressions were first published 
 in the Melbourne Argus, and others in the pages 
 
 of the Windsor Mamzine.
 
 Running the Quarantine Blockade 
 
 AN American humorist tells a story of a man who was lost at sea, 
 and who swam and swam for an interminable time. He gives 
 the most graphic account of the feelings of this man whilst 
 battling against the waves, and then says : "At that moment my friend 
 touched something hard — it was the United States ! " Now, that belated 
 
 GOING TO QUARANTINE 
 
 American could not have had more difficulty in touching the United 
 States than I and other passengers arriving last week in the good ship 
 Victoria had in touching Australia. 
 
 We had had a splendid passage all the way from London, and no illness 
 whatever on board. The passengers did not leave the steamer at Aden, 
 as there was no time ; and the Victoria arrived at and left Colombo with 
 a clean bill of health. After a run of ten days, we reached Albany. 
 Before boarding, the pilot — who, by the way, turned out to be harbour-
 
 10 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 master and major-domo of the whole port — asked the usual question, "All 
 well aboard ? " and being answered, " Aye, all well," unsuspectingly- 
 stepped on deck. As soon as the anchor was dropped, the port health 
 officer came alongside and informed us we were in quarantine. We soon 
 learned that Aden had been declared an infected port, requiring the usual 
 smallpox quarantine of twenty-one days clear. The steamer having only 
 been sixteen days out from Aden, five days' quarantine was ordered. The 
 
 
 OIK TO JlIE WEST 
 
 weakness of the regulations was made evident by the fact that the steamer 
 had a clean bill of health from Colombo. However, all the passengers 
 for West Australia were taken off to quarantine, including the unfortunate 
 harbour-master. 
 
 I3ays before we arrived we had pictured to ourselves a rush to the 
 goldfields as soon as we had touched Albany ; and immediately on enter- 
 ing that prettily-situated harbour I made the sketch, " Off to the West,"
 
 RUNNING THE QUARANTINE BLOCKADE 
 
 II 
 
 of impatient speculators and workers flying 
 to fortune. Alas ! their impatience was to be 
 cooled by a week of isolation on the quaran- 
 tine station. There was one passenger in 
 particular whose face is as well known in 
 Australia as his name, so I need not men- 
 tion it. He is an expert in mining, and 
 was sent over by a large syndicate, whose 
 representatives were no doubt waiting at the 
 other end of the cable for his report, while 
 he was rusticating in quarantine. We left 
 him in his enforced captivity, and when last 
 seen he was gesticulating and vowing vengeance on the health authorities. 
 
 CONVALESCENT 
 
 QUARANTINE ISLAND 
 
 Prophetically, I picture to myself the saloon passengers so tired of each
 
 12 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 Other in three days that my imaginary sketch, "Quarantine after Three 
 Days," might easily be realized. Some of our passengers, rather than 
 
 stay to enjoy the peaceful tranquillity of 
 quarantine, came on in the steamer. 
 Among these were a couple of "John- 
 nies," that type well known here. They 
 were evidently supplied with more money 
 than brains, and proposed to purchase 
 and float mining properties. If such 
 youths are often entrusted with business 
 of this kind, it is no wonder that bogus 
 mines are often foisted on British inves- 
 tors, and that the latter lose faith in 
 Australian mines. 
 
 The question of quarantine is one 
 that creates a vivid impression on the 
 minds of all strangers who happen to 
 encounter it on their first arrival. Havinof 
 spent five weeks in reaching Australia, 
 they are naturally anxious to land at the 
 earliest opportunity; and when prevented, 
 they are slow to recognise the serious side of the situation, or the wisdom 
 of sacrificing the comfort of the few to the health of the many. We are 
 not all philosophers when our own comfort is at stake. I met one philo- 
 sopher who had just done a term in quarantine, and he said it was 
 better than liviiic; in any hotel in Australia, with the advantage of being 
 free of cost. There was plenty of literature, he said — Punch of i860, 
 Vanily Fair of 1.S70; |)]enty of objects for study for the naturalist — 
 tarantulas, that sit around the room, and watch you like cricketers in 
 
 "jOHNNins" KKOM IIOMK
 
 RUNNING THE QUARANTINE BLOCKADE 13 
 
 the field ; plenty of snakes, too, from five feet long ; and crocodiles of 
 alarming aspect. Music was made in that haven of rest by flocks of 
 black cockatoos, screeching in chorus to the energetic solos of the jack- 
 ass. The picture presented by this philosopher made me quite regret to 
 be landed at last on a prosaic jetty at Port Melbourne, instead of being 
 sent to enjoy the hospitality of the West Australian Government in that 
 Eden of the West. 
 
 QUARANTINE — AFTER THREE DAYS
 
 A Peep at Albany, West Australia 
 
 ALBANY is far from being a fair sample of Australian towns. 
 It is known as " Sleepy Hollow," and bears out its name well, 
 in spite of its increased importance owing to the recent mining 
 boom in West Australia. 
 
 I have shown the customary attitude of the Albanians, and it would 
 
 ' CAB, SIR ? " 
 
 appear that, presuming that there were some active members of this 
 community once, they have flown to the goldfields, and only left behind 
 the "dead-beats." The solitary case of activity I saw was that of a 
 party of five boys, who had the only cab at the end of the pier, and 
 were loudly soliciting the custom of the arriving;; travellers. The courage 
 of our party did not rise to trusting our lives to a driver sub-divided 
 into five morsels, so the vociferations of the youngsters were without 
 reward. 
 
 14
 
 A PEEP AT ALBANY, WEST AUSTRALIA 
 
 15 
 
 A careful survey of the visible specimens of West Australian 
 society leads one to the conclusion that Albany has given way at the 
 knees. The lanky Cornstalk who met the tender was clearly afflicted 
 that way. Then the Dutch-looking gentleman in the pince-nez had the 
 same blemish. He was a carter, by the way — think of it, a carter 
 
 ALBANY INHABITANTS, AS SEEN FROM THE P. AND O. STEAMBOAT 
 
 wearing a pince-nez ! The row of loafers that I sketched, watching 
 the tender as it arrived — watching, it seemed, for the unwary " new 
 chum " — were also gone at the knees, as must be obvious from my 
 drawing. 
 
 Our first sight of " Sleepy Hollow " fully justified its name. On 
 the Parade every seat was occupied by sleepers in all stages of repose, 
 from the deathlike slumber of the person who had evidendy been
 
 i6 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 makino: a niQ:ht of it elsewhere, to the tor- 
 por of the rest- weary creature whose natural 
 condition seemed to be an unvarying com- 
 promise betwixt waking and sleeping. 
 Some of the weary ones had, however, 
 sufficient energy to crawl across the Parade 
 and watch some Indian jugglers perform- 
 ing outside the hotel. 
 
 The police trooper apparently shared 
 the popular aversion to exercise, as, seated 
 at ease on his noble charger, he chatted 
 pleasantly with a kindred lazy citizen. 
 Judging from the proportion of this trooper's 
 anatomy which was utilised in feet, one 
 would suppose that he must be of the 
 mounted infantry order. His appearance 
 recalled an old sketch by John Leech, in 
 Punch, of " the footiest man on a horse 
 that was ever seen." 
 
 A feature of a visit to Albany is 
 the shipping of gold for London. The 
 gold is packed in wooden boxes and sealed, and an eagle-eyed official 
 accompanies them and sees them securely locked in the bullion room. 
 The mere sight of the outside of the boxes containing such j)recious 
 freight i)roduces some semblance of eager interest in the bystanders, 
 and they crowd around to catch a glimpse as it comes along on the 
 railway trucks. When the L(old is j)laced on board the tender, we are 
 allowed to go too, but not before. The look on the face of the man 
 at the wheel denotes plainly that he has in his care a charge much 
 
 ■JlIK CAKMAN Wim I 111-: I'lNCE-NEZ
 
 A PEEP AT ALBANY, WEST AUSTIN ALIA 
 
 17 
 
 more valuable than our poor lives. So stern is the glint in the eye 
 of this son of the brine 
 that it might well strike 
 awe into the heart of the 
 boldest gold-robber and for- 
 bid him from plying his 
 trade here. 
 
 One poor mortal, who 
 is seated gazing with hun- 
 gry eyes at the gold, bears 
 unmistakably in his coun- 
 tenance the crushed and 
 beaten look of the stony- 
 broke. I cannot help wondering whether he is one of those hopeful 
 new arrivals, whom I sketched a few weeks ago, flying off to the gold- 
 fields. Perhaps he is one of the poor, over-laden and harassed mil- 
 
 THE SCENE OUTSIDE THE HOTEL 
 
 SOME ALBANY HORSEMEN 
 
 lionaires of these parts. The dead-beat and the millionaire have, after 
 all, much in common — particularly the millionaire.
 
 i8 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 The casual visitor quits Albany without gaining a glimpse of the 
 glory of the Golden West. All the activity is in Perth, to which 
 place all the intercolonial steamers go, as well as some of the vessels 
 from other parts ; and, but for the calling of the mail steamers, 
 Albany, one would presume, would scarcely exist at all. The 
 position is, however, one of much importance in a strategic sense, 
 and King George's Sound is well defended. 
 
 SHIPPING GOLD 
 
 It is well known that the Australians are very particular indeed 
 about the quarantine laws, and great is the anxiety experienced 
 amongst the passengers as the ship approaches St. George's Sound ; 
 U)T those who arc desirous of landing at Albany, in order to rush off 
 to seek their fortunes in the mines of Western Australia, are well 
 aware that should there be the slightest symptoms of contagious disease 
 on board, they will be doomed to a i)rolonged stay, possibly of several 
 weeks' duration, on " Quarantine Island."
 
 A PEEP AT ALBANY, WEST AUSTRALIA 19 
 
 Except to those who are anxious to hurry to the mainland, and 
 who consequently resent the delay, there is no very great hardship 
 involved in this compulsory residence. 
 
 " Quarantine Island," which is in reality not an island at all, but 
 a peninsula, is at the side of the Bay, and contains a building greatly 
 resembling a small hospital, which 
 is presided over by a Mr. Douglas 
 and his wife, who ably fulfil an 
 arduous position, for not only have 
 they to cater for the stranded 
 passengers, but they have to do 
 their best to pacify and console 
 those who chafe under the restric- 
 tions and rules which are neces- 
 sarily enforced in order to make 
 the isolation efficacious — the most 
 stringent rule, of course, being 
 that which prevents any of the 
 
 passengers undergoing quarantine from visiting the mainland on any 
 pretext whatever. 
 
 Provisions are brought to the " Island " daily in unstinted quantity 
 and of excellent quality, and a safe means of communication exists in 
 the use of the telephone, through which medium both the temporary 
 and habitual residents can converse with their friends on the mainland 
 without the slightest danger of spreading infection. 
 
 Students with a taste for natural history will find, as I have noted 
 on an earlier page, much to interest them on the " Island," for not only 
 does it boast of the common or garden spider in considerable quantities, 
 but also the tarantula, snakes, allii^ators, and black cockatoos — at least, 
 
 GAZING WITH HUNGRY EYES AT THE COLD
 
 20 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 so I am informed. I am also assured that, while fowls and game may- 
 be purchased daily from the mainland by those who wish to supplement 
 the vienii provided by the management, the true sportsman will have no 
 difficulty in bagging a snipe for his breakfast, should he wish for a 
 little sport in the early morning.
 
 Mems. about Melbourne 
 
 How refreshing, when one walks jaded in the streets of Melbourne, 
 to see all the advertisements on the tram-cars that one can be 
 whisked in a few minutes, and for the modest sum of threepence, 
 to the quietude of the ocean beach. Perhaps the name is a trifle delusive, 
 
 KEACONSFIELD PARADE, ST. KILDA 
 
 and that particular stretch of sand at South Melbourne somewhat un- 
 romantic ; still, we cannot have more for threepence, and that glimpse of 
 Hobson's Bay is cheap at the price. 
 
 It is interesting enough, too. There is that bewildering multiplicity 
 of jetties — for what purpose constructed one can only guess — which give 
 to the utilitarian food for speculation, and to the strollers footing for a 
 walk. It may be well known what was the original purpose of these
 
 22 
 
 A US TRALIAN SKE TCHES 
 
 jetties, but to the casual observer they seem only monuments to a past 
 prosperity. 
 
 I would suggest that the Beaconsfield Parade be re-christened Bicycle 
 Parade, for the place seems practically given up to wheeldom. I under- 
 stand that the inhabitants of St. Kilda feel that they miss something when 
 they go inland, away from Hobson's Ocean and its faintly haunting odour. 
 That odour — seaweed and ozone, they say — is apt to drive the more 
 fastidious away from the beach into a bosky solitude of Albert Park. The 
 lake here is an imposing expanse of water ; nay, it is more than that, but 
 
 
 A SHALLOW PRETEXT— ALBERT TARK 
 
 I should not like to say how much more — perhaps 60 per cent, water, 
 and the rest "added matter." After the "ocean" at South Melbourne, 
 one expects to have to call this lake a sea at least. There is some good 
 boating carried on here, the density of the water offering no serious im- 
 pediment to the progress of the craft. A great advantage of this well- 
 conducted sea is in its depth. On a fme summer evening it is crowded 
 with boats, offering infmite chances of disaster ; but the gravest upset on 
 such an occasion would be harmless, except to the clothes, for the— ah— 
 liquid is only about two feet deep, and I picture a shipwreck and its con- 
 sequences in the sketch. "A Shallow Pretext."
 
 MEMS. ABOUT MELBOURNE 
 
 23 
 
 A trip in the opposite direction one day led me to Royal Park, 
 the habitat of all the savage beasts in Victoria. Zoos all over the world 
 are pretty much alike, but the Melbourne Zoo has one striking and original 
 feature which might well be enlarged upon. This is the introduction of 
 wooden beasts, something like Noah's Ark animals in the rough. I have 
 sketched one whose visiting card bears the musical sounding name of 
 Diprotodon Longiceps. To those who have never met this engaging 
 
 DIPROTODON LONGICEPS (m'COY) 
 
 creature, I ought to explain that it is flat — flat as a flounder — about two 
 inches thick, a mere silhouette. Happily, the original is extinct, other- 
 wise he might rise up and protest against the fun that the scientists of 
 Victoria have poked at him. I know, by the way, that his pet name is 
 M'Coy. It doesn't seem appropriate, somehow. 
 
 I think if all the animals were treated in the same way, it might save 
 a lot of trouble, and might make the Zoo more amusing to some, perhaps 
 more terrible to others. I gave a hint in the sketch of the Elephantorum 
 Trunkuli, which seems a pleasing variation on the monotony of original
 
 24 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 Jumbos. I would gladly present the Zoological Society with a model 
 
 AT THE ZO© 
 
 from this sketch, but I fear it might turn out the White Elephant of the 
 Gardens. 
 
 '^"^-^^^yjy i 
 
 A I!1T OK ANCIENT MELBOURNE 
 
 I was very anxious to get a sight of ancient IMelbournc, but could
 
 MEMS. ABOUT MELBOURNE 
 
 25 
 
 not find any one to direct me there. One friend told me he had heard 
 of a deserted village, with a town hall i^iven up to rabbits, which he 
 thought was more than ten years old, but 
 this was not what I sought. At last a 
 knowing one hailed me to an out-of-the- 
 way district, where he pointed out a num- 
 ber of houses something like this one, 
 of which I took a note. He said there 
 were some more, but that they had been 
 moved away, all standing, to some township 
 a hundred miles away. I fancy this one 
 refused to be moved, and threatened to lie 
 down. I am still looking for ancient Mel- 
 bourne. 
 
 My last mem. is a sketch of an antique 
 party, whom I have named " Old Turkey." 
 He carries about live turkeys for sale, and 
 is a convincing demonstration of the fact 
 that people grow to resemble their most 
 constant^ associates. His appearance is 
 much more birdlike than his birds. 
 
 The Law Courts in Melbourne are the best constructed I have seen ; 
 those in Sydney are old-fashioned and the worst. In Melbourne they are 
 airy and light, and at the same time have a style and dignity becoming 
 their use : a richly-polished massive mahogany throne for the judge, nicely 
 arranged seats for the Bar, plenty of room for the public, and, above all, 
 a pleasant little perch for the witness. It has been the custom in Law 
 Courts from the darkest ages to make a witness into a prisoner by tor- 
 turing him in the courts, not only by the tongue of the cross-examiner. 
 
 " OLD TURKEY "
 
 26 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 A BUNCU OF BARRISTERS 
 
 but by the unpleasant position in 
 
 which witnesses are placed by the 
 
 architect of the court. The Irish 
 
 courts are perhaps the most hu- 
 morous, and at the same time 
 
 the most awe - inspiring in this 
 
 matter : there a table is placed in 
 
 the well of the court, upon which 
 
 a chair is placed, and the witness 
 
 has to sit in this chair with his 
 
 feet on a line with the barristers. 
 
 with his back either to the jury 
 
 box or the prisoner ; and having 
 
 got the nervous witness into this 
 
 most uncomfortable position, he is 
 
 at the mercy of the cross-examiner, who asks him one moment why he 
 
 does not look at the judge, the next moment 
 why he does not look at him ; rebukes him im- 
 mediately afterwards for not showing his face 
 to the jury, and then suggests that his evidence 
 cannot be worth much as he is afraid to face 
 the prisoner. By this process the nerves of the 
 strongest witness would break down. Now, in 
 IMclbournc, there is a nice little circular stand 
 where a witness can gracefully pose and imagine 
 himself in a Roman T'orum of old ; certainly he 
 has to be grateful to the designer of the Mel- 
 bourne courts for giving him an advantage he 
 
 would not get elsewhere. And Justice Hawkins, had he been in Australia 
 
 MR. JUSTICE IIOLKOYK
 
 MEMS. ABOUT MELBOURNE 
 
 27 
 
 OLD CHIPS 
 
 instead of England, would not have worried the poor counsel sitting under 
 
 him into premature ai;e, 
 for he could hardly turn a 
 Melbourne court into the 
 badly ventilated, stifling, 
 unhealthy den he has pre- 
 sided over in the old 
 country. 
 
 Perhaps in visiting a 
 Melbourne court one would 
 pay more attention to the 
 courts themselves than to 
 the proceedings, as they 
 happen to be particularly 
 
 dull and uninteresting. Some case about a cargo of wood brought 
 
 forward witnesses interestinsf to the 
 
 artist as types of good Australian 
 
 stock. Another case was proceed- 
 ing about the same time — a dispute 
 
 among the Oddfellows. It is evident 
 
 from my sketch that the oddest 
 
 fellows crowded the court on the 
 
 occasion. I had not the pleasure of 
 
 hearing the leader of the Bar, — I 
 
 might call him the Russell of Aus- 
 tralia, — Mr. Purves, but what I did 
 
 hear of the eloquence of the Bar 
 
 was enough to show a stranger that 
 
 they were quite as able as any man 
 
 A TIMBER WITNESS
 
 28 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 we have in England, as 
 they made some of the most 
 stupid cases one is likely 
 to meet with entertaining 
 to a marvellous degree. 
 
 It may be interesting 
 to members of the Bar to 
 know that I gathered from 
 their brother barristers in 
 Australia that the idea of 
 mixing solicitors' and barristers' practices has been tried in Australia, 
 and with one accord condemned as injurious to both professions. 
 
 ODDFELLOWS 
 
 SOMKBODY IN TIIK SUI'REME COURT
 
 Racing in Australia 
 
 ORSE-RACING is certainly one thing which is 
 managed better in Australia than in any other 
 country in the world. It is also safe to say that 
 this sport is better managed at Flemington, the 
 Epsom of Victoria, than anywhere else in Aus- 
 tralia, 
 
 The differences between the conduct of racing 
 in Australia and in England would take too long 
 to treat fully. In the first place, in England, 
 racing is for racing men, the public being scarcely 
 considered at all. In Australia the racecourse is 
 for the people, and nothing astonishes the stranger 
 more than the perfection of the arrangements for 
 syOy the convenience of the public at Flemington, the 
 scene of the famous Melbourne Cup. Another 
 thing is curious, and that is the quiet and orderly behaviour of the 
 crowd at this racecourse. In fact, apart from racing, it would be diffi- 
 cult to find, all the world over, a better behaved or more interesting 
 crowd. 
 
 Taken altogether, the race meetings at Flemington are among the 
 wonders of the world. From the greatest to the smallest detail, nothing 
 which ingenuity can devise or money procure is omitted. To take one 
 
 39
 
 30 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 IN THE TADDOCK 
 
 YOUNG AUSTRALIA TAKES AN INTEREST
 
 RACING IN AUSTRALIA 
 
 31 
 
 instance, the ladies' boudoirs arc as lavishly furnished as the rooms of 
 the finest private houses. The management provide perfumes for general 
 use, and upon the tables are placed cushions with needles, ready threaded 
 
 with silk of all colours, so that a 
 lady can sew on a button or put 
 in a stitch in case of an accident 
 to her toilette. Speaking of toil- 
 ettes, it is generally understood 
 that the annual gathering at the 
 Melbourne Cup is, in point of 
 dress, one of the greatest func- 
 tions of the world. Magnificent 
 as is the accommodation for the 
 " classes," however, the masses are 
 equally well provided for. Behind 
 the grand-stand the hill rises and 
 affords a view of the course. 
 Upon this there is a garden which 
 any English squire might envy. 
 Here the humbler folk can "camp 
 out" with their picnic baskets and enjoy themselves to their hearts' 
 content. Boiling water is supplied, so that they can have tea in their 
 own way without expense. This garden is picturesque and wild, as 
 though Nature had made it, and gives no uncomfortable suggestion ot 
 a need to "keep off the grass" ; at the same time it is perfecdy planted 
 and kept, and is altogether an ideal retreat. At the back of the 
 grand-stand are huge letters of the alphabet, placed at equal distances 
 — this is one more of the many happy thoughts of the secretary 
 for the comfort of the public. The intention is to provide readily dis- 
 
 AN OLD STARTER AT FLBMliNGTON
 
 32 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 THE people's garden 
 
 THE START INC; MACHINE
 
 RACING IN AUSTRALIA 33 
 
 tinguishable landmarks for people who wish to appoint a meeting place 
 for friends. An appointment to meet at a given hour at A, B, or C, 
 avoids all confusion which might arise from naming a less definite 
 trysting place. 
 
 The train service at Flemington is admirably managed. There are 
 different exits for different parts of the course, and when returning, 
 only sufficient people to fill one train are allowed on the platform at 
 once. You take your seats in comfort, without any rush or crush. As 
 soon as one train moves off another is ready, and every one gets away 
 without the least inconvenience. 
 
 Coming to the management of the course and the racing, there are 
 several points upon which the Australian institution is much better con- 
 ducted than similar places elsewhere. The "starting gate" is a remark- 
 able innovation and works to perfection. The use of this invention does 
 away with all the tricks of jockeys, by which some make false starts 
 purposely to fret and tire the cracks. The difference between a start 
 with the gate and one without it is great. The regularity and machine- 
 like promptitude of the one, as seen in Australia, makes the start on 
 the old system, still in vogue in England, look ridiculous. Considering 
 the long delays and unsatisfactory starts which the English custom in- 
 volves, and the frequent appeals to the committee against jockeys, it 
 will not be surprising if the system is adopted at home. I have sketched 
 the clerk of the course on his white charger — an old-time racer, I under- 
 stand — engaged in superintending a start. As the horses cannot pass 
 the " gate " until it is raised, there is no possibility of any obstreperous 
 ones breaking away. It might be supposed that there would be some 
 difficulty in getting horses to face this strange object, but there is hardly 
 any objection on this score, horses readily getting used to it. 
 
 In another sketch I show Mr. George Watson, who has officiated
 
 yinpTiT;.']'':' 
 
 THE BRl'I'ISH METHOD OF STARTING 
 THE AUSTRALIAN METHOD 
 
 THE EENCE IN ENGLAND 
 ■JUK FENCE IN AUSTRALIA 
 
 A STUDY IN CONTRASTS 
 84
 
 RACING IN AUSTRALIA 
 
 35 
 
 THE CLERK OF THE COURSE 
 
 as starter at Flem- 
 ington for many 
 years. When I saw 
 this veteran he was 
 sitting in the weigh- 
 ing room, having 
 been invalided, and 
 obliged for a while to 
 forego his accustomed 
 duties. 
 
 Some of the 
 bookmakers of Mel- 
 bourne have physi- 
 ognomies sufficiently 
 striking to attract 
 
 observation, though it would be flattery to designate them as personally 
 attractive. It is otherwise with the ladies, and it is somewhat of a sur- 
 prise to a stranger to see fashionably-dressed ladies walking about the 
 paddock unattended, admiring the horses and comparing notes, a thing 
 
 which in England 
 would be considered 
 impossible. But then 
 it must be remem- 
 bered that every as- 
 pect of the pastime 
 is different in the 
 two countries, and 
 generally the advan- 
 AusTRALiAN KooKMAKERs tagc is grcatly in
 
 36 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 favour of Australia. In England there is a disgraceful disregard of 
 public convenience, and, whereas from an Australian meeting you return 
 home as spick and span as you left, in England you are lucky If you 
 reach home without having your clothes torn off your backs, ladies in 
 particular finding the ordeal extremely trying. In England the course is 
 a pandemonium, the rough element dominating the situation. In Aus- 
 tralia, to a great extent, this element is absent. 
 
 Yet another difference in the actual racing is found in the sensa- 
 tional nature of Australian steeplechasing as compared with the same 
 sport in England. Stiff fences and huge stone walls are fixed on the 
 Australian courses, and the way in which the riders go at these for- 
 midable obstacles is sensational and the results often startling. Fatal 
 accidents to horses are of quite frequent occurrence, and not a few 
 jockeys are killed outright or maimed for life, while severe falls with 
 more fortunate endinos are so numerous as to excite no notice what- 
 ever. It is well known that a famous Australian jumper, racing in 
 England, failed to obtain a place in any of the chief contests simply be- 
 cause he lost time and labour in jumping high over his obstacles, not 
 understanding a fence which is constructed to suit horses which can 
 run but not jump. 
 
 The universality of the interest taken in racing in Australia is cer- 
 tainly conspicuous. Every one goes to most of the chief races, and it is 
 considered quite an ordinary thing for ladies to bet on the course. Young 
 people also appear to take an absorbing interest In the sport, and not 
 unfrequently are seen indulging in the ruling passion for backing the 
 winner.
 
 
 
 A Suburban Race Meeting 
 
 A FEW NOTES IN THE CROWD 
 
 NE thing which immediately strikes a stranger visiting the race- 
 courses in Australia is that, while in England racing is carried 
 on in the first place by and for owners and trainers, and the 
 
 
 ^ifei^^^S5S^^ 
 
 AMOXG THE BOOKIES 
 
 public entertainment is the secondary consideration, in Australia the public 
 is the first consideration. This catering for the public is carried to per-
 
 ?.8 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 fection at Flemington. I went, however, a few 
 days ago to a suburban race meeting of a 
 different class, and paid my two shillings to 
 mingle with the crowd. At this place the 
 " bookies " adopt much more extravagant me- 
 thods of advertisement than at Flemington ; 
 one in particular attracted my attention with a 
 wonderful hat labelled all over '' double event." 
 It was interesting to note that among the crowd 
 were husbands and wives debating about their 
 inv^estments in the ring. Here were elderly 
 respectable labouring people, some seemingly 
 past the three score and ten, displaying keen 
 zest in the proceedings. Boys, almost children, 
 astonished me by their conversation. They ap- 
 peared thoroughly familiar with the intricacies 
 of the betting- ring, and 
 
 A BOOKIES HAT 
 
 were wagermg away 
 their weekly pence with 
 the recklessness of a 
 plunger. Some of these youngsters I saw 
 scrambling up the wire netting which divided 
 the crowd from tlie course at one point. From 
 this coign of vantage they called out encour- 
 agements and criticisms to the jockeys as they 
 passed, showing that they were no strangers 
 in these parts. I noted that a [)ortion of the 
 ground immediately abutting on the course 
 seemed part of a farm, and its a[)pearance gave 
 
 YOUNG SrORTSMEN
 
 A SUBURBAN RACE MEETING 
 
 39 
 
 a rural picturesqueness to the scene. Racing touts of maturer years se- 
 lected a spot far from the madding crowd to get a word with the 
 
 
 
 CLOSE TIME 
 
 jockeys as they passed on their preliminary canter before the race. The 
 questions asked seemed innocent enough, but were intended to elicit 
 something in shape of a tip at the eleventh hour. 
 The youth who asked his friend in the saddle, 
 "What are you on, Bill?" is not, as one might 
 fancy, inquiring the name of his mount. 
 
 An extraordinary sight at this meeting was 
 to see some thousands of hares, more or less 
 tame, in the centre of the course, huddled to- 
 gether in batches. They had a good view of the 
 racing, but they have soon to take part in a 
 more serious race — a race for life in the cours- 
 ing season, as I understand they are preserved 
 for that purpose. 
 
 In the steeplechases we had the usual mishaps- 
 and a jockey or two injured. The pluck and dash shown in these races 
 make a stranger wonder that a jockey is ever left intact at the winning 
 
 AFTER A STEEPLECHASE 
 
 -a few horses killed
 
 e i '•'•' / 
 
 " 1VHAT ARE YOU ON, BILL?" 
 
 JIKTWKEN THE KVEXTS 
 40
 
 A SUBURBAN RACE MEETING 41 
 
 post. As It is, I notice a jockey arriving after a race with his boot off 
 and his jacket in tatters. He cheerily sakites a brother jockey, who is 
 just convalescent and hobbles about with a stick, and jokes pass about 
 the latest spill, showing that these hardy fellows enjoy the humour of 
 their mishaps, and make light of their perils.
 
 Side-Lights on Sydney 
 
 SYDNEY, so old-fash- 
 ioned in everything, 
 curiously enough has 
 either never adopted, or if it 
 has, has discarded the old- 
 fashioned Barrister's Wie for 
 the Speaker of its Parliament. 
 This is a pity, for it struck 
 me forcibly that if ever a 
 Speaker wanted a wig, it was 
 the presiding genius over all 
 the debates in Sydney. Not 
 only did his " dome of thought 
 want re-thatching," but his 
 spacious neck seemed as if a 
 little horse-hair would have 
 saved him from the draughts 
 of the open doors, which 
 flapped to and fro on either 
 side of the chair ; the gown 
 was all right, but the knee-breeches and the buckle shoes and the 
 were missing. The Sergeant-at-Arms— a handsome old gendeman— 
 
 42 
 
 Tllli SI'EAKKR 
 
 Wig 
 
 who
 
 SIDE-LIGHTS ON SYDNEY 
 
 43 
 
 looked the part down to the waist with his cut-away coat and his frill, 
 was but a commonplace individual so far as his legs were concerned. 
 Where were the knee-breeches, the silk stockings, and the buckles? In 
 fact, looking over these few sketches I made in my first walk through 
 Sydney, it will be observed there is a total absence of dignity and that 
 
 A WELL-KNOWN FIGURIi 
 
 A MEMBER OF THE OPPOSITIOr 
 
 picturesqueness of figure always attributed to the Australian until one 
 sees him at home. The Police Constable, for instance, has hardly the 
 figure one would imagine excessive horse exercise would allow to remam, 
 and from the huge whip he carries in his hand, one must believe that 
 ne still keeps true to Australian habits by living on horseback. A 
 member of the Opposition surely neither rides nor cycles to the Parliament
 
 44 
 
 A US TRALIAN SKE TCHES 
 
 House ; and judging from the statues, the best type of Sydney men must 
 have been of the same order, or else the sculptors of Australia have 
 done a serious injustice to its great men. I select the "Dalley" statue. 
 Who could believe that this gentleman was ever a fiery orator or a leader 
 of men. But after all the harbour in Sydney is considered so beautiful 
 that it more than makes amends for any inartistic drawbacks the town 
 may possess. 
 
 ■IIIE DAI.I.EY STATUE
 
 Mems. in Sydney 
 
 T 
 
 HE Sydney Law Courts 
 are cramped and old- 
 fashioned. I visited 
 the Divorce Court, my atten- 
 tion having been directed to 
 it through reading that a 
 "record" had just been made 
 in the number of cases poHshed 
 off at one sitting. Matrimon- 
 ial suits are tried in a room 
 about 
 
 as large as a packing-case, where people have 
 to walk on one another when they move about. 
 The cases tumble over one another with just as 
 little ceremony, and are disposed of at the rate 
 of nineteen a day ; at least that, I understand, is 
 the record recently put up. I should think this 
 beats Chicago, where liberated spouses are 
 turned out by machinery. 
 
 As I left, I noticed a typical " sundowner," 
 who had been looking in at the proceedings. I 
 asked him if he was looking for work. The 
 eloquence of his silence, and the speaking blank- 
 
 A " sundowner" 
 
 45
 
 46 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 ness of his look, I shall not easily forget. He stood transfixed while 
 I made this note, and he had not found a word to express his senti- 
 ments when I left. 
 
 IJIE SYDNEY DIVOKCIi; COURT
 
 cc 
 
 The Domain/' Sydney 
 
 THE "larrikin" has been described before as being one of the 
 lowest types of humanity in the Colonies ; yet he does not look 
 it, and there is another phase of low life which does not assume 
 its correct role either. The "sundowner" — another name for the Sydney 
 tramp — appears a greater ruffian than the larrikin, yet in many respects 
 he is his superior. He is a loafer, not a sneak ; an idle, worthless, 
 drunken ne'er-do-well, perhaps, but not the crafty, bullying blackguard 
 that the larrikin is. 
 
 There possibly may be amongst the sundowners many respectable 
 but unfortunate citizens, driven through dire necessity to make their 
 home in the Domain ; but it is when you get the mixture of larrikin 
 
 47
 
 4S 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 and sundowner that the very- 
 lowest type of character is ob- 
 tained. In the sketch we have a 
 horde of these ruffians stealthily 
 creeping up in the twilight to 
 worry and blackmail the innocent 
 young lovers on the stone seat — 
 doubtless fresh arrivals from the 
 Old Country, continuing a flirta- 
 tion begun on the steamer, where 
 as fellow-passengers they have been thrown into each other's society 
 for the past six or seven weeks. They are whispering vows of eternal 
 fidelity, and so rapt are they in their mutual admiration, that they are 
 
 NEWSPAPER PYJAMAS 
 
 A lovers' meeting 
 
 oljlivious of the approach (;f the wretches who make the Domain their 
 happy hunting-ground from sunset to dawn. 
 
 In the daytime, Hke the bats and owls, they vanish and keep in 
 hiding, and then respectable people may enjoy the beautiful walks in
 
 ''THE domain;' SYDNEY 49 
 
 the park and about the Government House unmolested, and with their 
 children and friends enjoy the beautiful and picturesque scenery with 
 which the Domain abounds. 
 
 The view of the harbour and the shipping is particularly animated 
 and interesting, and there are many natural beauties to be observed in the 
 park itself, which deserve more than a passing notice. Amongst other 
 natural curiosities in one of the side paths are to be observed a group 
 
 IN THE DOMAIN 
 
 of rocks eaten away by the changing tides till they resemble nothing 
 so much as a number of strange and uncouth monsters of a bygone 
 age — at any rate, thus they were regarded by a lady and her charge 
 who were admiring them on the day of my visit. 
 
 Although the larrikin and the sundowner may not be rampant in 
 the daytime, the Domain is not altogether free from an element of 
 peril and danger of another kind. It is well known how important a
 
 50 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 
 part the horse 
 plays in the every- 
 day Hfe of the 
 Australian, and in 
 this park the 
 horses are allowed 
 to graze at their 
 own sweet will. 
 Being very high- 
 spirited animals 
 and full of fun, 
 there is quite an 
 excitement when their owners come to capture them after having been 
 loose all day. In stating that the accompanying sketch was drawn from 
 
 A FREE-AND-EASY GALLOP 
 
 A CIIARACTKRISTIC SPOT 
 
 nature on the spot, it is necessary to explain (lest he should be accused 
 of maligning the magnificent horses of Australia) that the artist was so
 
 " THE domain;' SYDNEY 51 
 
 disconcerted at the wild careering of the animals that he was unable to 
 do justice to the drawing, although the native Australians seemed to 
 regard the whole affair as a matter of course, and sat about on the 
 grass quite undisturbed at the proximity of the horses' heels. 
 
 As the sun sets, and the better class of visitors to the Domain 
 retire, the park becomes the undisputed property of the loafers and 
 sundowners, who nightly use the niches and crevices of the rocks as 
 their dormitories, from the dim recesses of which they draw forth their 
 
 ^•■^••^/. 4/ 
 
 ^f^C»' 
 
 ^^^^^kdm^f^^^^^'^^^^^ "^^ 
 
 \0 ' ■ ^^^M ^^f'^^ffy^^^^ 
 
 MORNING ABLUTIONS 
 
 " bed-clothes," consisting of old newspapers and wrappers. Observe the 
 gentleman in the sketch carefully adjusting his newspaper pyjamas and 
 tying up himself in a weird fashion — thus literally becoming "wrapped 
 in literature." 
 
 In the morning these gentry perform their ablutions in the cattle 
 troughs abounding in the park, and later on may be seen fishing for 
 their breakfasts from the wooden piles in the harbour. They are 
 sometimes fortunate enough to catch a sufficient number of fish to sell 
 for a few pence, and thus provide themselves with food for the
 
 iy-^ 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 remainder of the day, till darkness once more drives them to their 
 primitive resting-places. All tell the same tale : they were born tired, 
 and have never been able to throw off the feelino^. 
 
 It seems to the stranger a shame that the best parts of a beautiful 
 park like the Domain should be given up to these vagrants, and that 
 better regulations are not enforced to protect what might be made one 
 of the most beautiful places of public recreation in the world, possessing 
 as it does so many natural facilities and advantages. A strong hand is 
 required to deal effectively with this difficult problem.
 
 f H t, A ) ^ V "t 
 
 R^VAVU 
 
 Character Sketches in Sydney 
 
 SYDNEY on a Saturday night is a good deal like many another 
 city ; most of its aspects are squalid and far from pleasing. In 
 " Paddy's Market " we see gathered together a crowd which 
 would not be out of place in the East end of London, although, on the 
 whole, the Sydney crowd is less noisy and less good-tempered. Brawls 
 are not frequent, but there is little of breezy good nature about these 
 people. If they are enjoying themselves, they do not exhibit many 
 outward signs of their gaiety. In this market the Jew cheap clothes 
 sellers keep up the resemblance to the East end, adhering to that 
 seductively aggressive manner which stamps their kind all the world 
 over. Stalls with cheap lithographs, music, china and fancy goods, are 
 
 53
 
 54 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 ranged side by side with the stands of venders of sweetstuffs, fruit and 
 vegetables, fried potatoes and poultry, the last, which are "alive, alive!" 
 addine to the confusion of sounds with their unmelodious cries. Outside 
 the market, about the street corners, it is interesting to watch the 
 groups around the street preachers, who hold forth in the lurid glare of 
 a flaring oil lamp. The discussion on theology which takes place after- 
 
 SATURDAY NIGHT 
 
 W^ 
 
 SUNDAY MORNINC 
 
 wards would be amusing but for the seriousness of its subject — the 
 opinions are so free and various, and the arguments so highly coloured. 
 As a contrast, there arc the larger groups of people congregated in the 
 courts leading out of the chief streets of the city, where betting and 
 gambling are freely carried on as a regular thing. Here you find 
 tradesmen, clerks, and scores of nondescripts of the lower orders,
 
 CHARACTER SKETCHES IIV SYDNEY 
 
 55 
 
 together with a fair sprinkling of larril<Lins, and the conduct of these 
 crowds is, as may be imagined, far from edifying. 
 
 In any Sunday crowd the larrikin is always conspicuous, and no 
 description of this city has ever been attempted without including the 
 larrikin. It is difficult to speak of this social excrescence without being 
 harsh. Most people unfamiliar with Australia are apt to suppose that 
 the larrikin is merely the Antipodean " 'Arry." This is not so at all. 
 
 STREET LARRIKINS 
 
 'Arry is sublimely innocent of criminal instincts ; he is generally a hard- 
 working" tradesman — a coster for choice — and his ambition is to marry 
 his " donah " and achieve a decent ideal of domestic felicity. The 
 familiar "coster" songs are, as a rule, true to nature, and depict the 
 London 'Arry with fidelity. It is true that the larrikin has his 
 prototype in other countries, but in European and American cities he 
 is merely a representative of the criminal classes, and as such he is 
 held in subjection by the police. In Sydney he is a "chartered
 
 56 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 libertine," and suffers little molestation from the law, though he freely 
 molests law-abiding citizens. Individually, he is a low, loafing sneak 
 and a thorough coward. Collectively, the " Glebe push," the " Rock 
 push," the " Argyle Cut push," and other gangs are the terrors of the 
 
 OUTSIDE paddy's MARKET 
 
 Streets after dark. The larrikin has nothing manly about him. He is a 
 sharp, active,5^horsey-looking, vicious cad ; he very rarely docs any work, 
 but mostly lives upon the lowest means possible — by the vice of others.
 
 CHARACTER SKETCHES IN SYDNEY 57 
 
 The " larrikinesses " are melancholy creatures. One wonders what their 
 mothers could have been. About their outward appearance there is 
 some resemblance to " 'Arriet " of Cockaigne. They affect large hats 
 and feathers and gaudy colours and their ways are "loud." 13ut poor 
 'Arriet, with all her vulgarity and sometimes rowdy ways, has a sturdy 
 
 STREET GAMBLING 
 
 virtue and independence which are altogether admirable ; and she is 
 invariably a hard-working girl, and often thrifty, except in the matter of 
 feathers. The larrikiness sometimes works ; often she lives by bullying 
 her parents and compelling them to support her and her low com- 
 panions. Many of these creatures of both sexes are very young, and a
 
 58 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 It IS 
 
 much 
 
 glance at any of them shows 
 clearly the immature criminal, and 
 also, alas! that for such there can 
 be no future but that of social 
 pests and vermin. This feature is 
 the darkest blot upon Australian 
 society, and upon Sydney in par- 
 ticular. It is strange that, with 
 an immense body of clerical and 
 lay workers in every branch of 
 mission work, this evil should be 
 so rampant and unchecked. Yet 
 
 said that, in times past, the state of things in this particular was 
 
 worse ; this seems, to a stranger, barely^ credible. 
 
 THE YOUTHFUL LARRIKIN 
 
 //^/ ^/^' 
 
 ¥ my 
 
 ^' 
 
 TADDY S MARKET
 
 Manly : The Brighton of Austraha 
 
 ANLY BEACH is known as the Brighton of Aus- 
 tralia. Why it should be so called is a mys- 
 tery ; for though the trip by steamer across 
 Sydney Harbour to Manly is really beautiful, 
 there is no more resemblance between Manly 
 and our Brighton than between Sydney 
 Harbour and the Grand Canal. London-by- 
 the-Sea, as Brighton is often called, possesses no naturally attractive 
 features. It is simply a city by the sea, whereas Manly is topographi- 
 cally picturesque, boasting of excellent cliffs and a good sea front. 
 The arrangements upon its beach, 
 however, are worthy of a panto- 
 mime. There is a row of struc- 
 tures resembling sheep-pens, each 
 one of which encloses some pre- 
 sumably valuable, though diminu- 
 tive, botanical treasure. These are 
 arrayed in a painfully straight line, 
 and are flanked by an equally 
 rigid line of toy Noah's-Ark-like 
 fir trees. 
 
 Nii-T^i*!; 
 
 Grass grows near the 
 
 AN" ARTISTIC LANDLORD 
 
 59
 
 6o 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 beach, which is tastefully decorated with broken bottles, thoughtfully left 
 behind by kind-hearted beanfeasters. 
 
 The only point of similarity between our seaside resort and Manly 
 is the large flock of itinerant photographers that flourish at both places, 
 and here they seem to thrive well upon Australian vanity. I saw 
 Manly in the winter, but undoubtedly it is most popular during the 
 
 SOME CLERICS 
 
 summer season, and the place ap2)ears to be well suited to the crowd 
 who fly thither to escape the heat of Sydney. 
 
 Looking eastward from the beach, the cliffs are surmounted by a 
 Catholic college, presided over by a celebrated Australian cardinal. On 
 the occasion of my visit the beach below seemed to be reserved for 
 clerical visitors, who had evidently been paying their respects to the 
 cardinal, and who were now discussing Church matters by the sad 
 sea waves.
 
 MANLY: THE BRIGHTON OF AUSTRALIA 
 
 6l 
 
 About ten or twelve miles along the coast is a fine hotel, the 
 enterprising proprietor of which runs vehicles, for the convenience of 
 tourists, from Manly to his establishment and back. It is well worth 
 the journey, if only for the sake of the drive, which is through inter- 
 esting bush scenery, opening out upon a bold sea front, while at the 
 
 ON THE BOAT 
 
 hotel the landlord offers further picturesque attractions in the shape of 
 mural decorations of a somewhat remarkable character. A Frenchman 
 is this courteous host, with decidedly artistic tastes — or, shall I say, 
 energy — for he has covered his walls with paintings in oil — replicas of 
 well-known pictures, which have reached him through the medium of 
 the coloured supplements to the illustrated papers. The pictures
 
 62 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 resemble frescoes, and have lost nothing of their brilliant colouring in 
 the copying process. If monsieur the artist is modest and cares not to 
 dilate upon his work, madame is always ready to act as cicerone and 
 expatiate upon the beauties of the artist-proprietor's self-apportioned 
 labours while the d(^jeuner is being prepared. The latter is certain to 
 
 ON THE BEACH 
 
 be excellent, and will be particularly gratifying after the long journey. 
 The meal ended, the gardens will well repay a visit, containing as they 
 do quite a menagerie of native and foreign birds and animals, while the 
 curious little Australian bears, asleep in all sorts of attitudes in the 
 trees of the gardens, arc certain to evoke a great deal of interest. 
 These harmless and docile little animals are very tame and inoffensive,
 
 MANLY: THE BRIGHTON OF AUSTRALIA 
 
 63 
 
 and so lazy that they will scarcely move if a bird settles upon them, as 
 
 is frequently the case. It is very curi- 
 ous to notice how they stow themselves 
 away in the forked branches of the 
 trees, and adapt themselves to the ap- 
 parently uncomfortable positions which 
 they are forced to assume. 
 
 A VISITOR FROM ALBANY 
 
 ON THE BOAT : AN IRISHMAN 
 
 Driving back, one is shown a gaunt-looking shell of a house, which 
 is reputed to be haunted ; and the thought is impressed upon one's 
 mind that it can no longer be said of Australia, as of America, that 
 the country is too young to be able to possess a ghost. The steamers
 
 h I 
 
 THE HAUNTED HOUSE 
 
 64 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 which ply between Manly 
 and Sydney present all 
 the features of the small 
 steamers to be seen on 
 the Thames; and the scene 
 on the deck of one of 
 these Antipodean small 
 craft is one which might 
 be witnessed on any sum- 
 mer's day at Gravesend 
 or Greenwich, save for the fact that here the garb of the mounted 
 police is rather more picturesque than that of Tommy Atkins, and 
 that the Irish element is rather more in evidence. The son of Erin 
 depicted in the sketch is evidently ruminating, as he gazes across 
 the harbour, upon the hardships which befell his ancestors in these 
 same waters many years gone by. As the steamer passes the heads 
 of the harbour the sea becomes boisterous as in the Atlantic. 
 
 THE AUSTRALIAN BEAK
 
 A Visit to Adelaide 
 
 NGLING on the jetty Is an exciting sport, and there must be 
 
 ^ _ something heroic in the composition of the anglers ot 
 
 Austraha, for here at Largs they ply their sport regardless 
 
 of the screeching puff-puff. They may be run over and 
 
 lose life or limb, but they go on angling just the 
 
 same. 
 
 I have sketched the driver and fireman of the 
 engine, resigned to the impossibility of clearing the 
 line of prostrate fishermen, giving in to the popular 
 passion and doing a cast or two on their own account. 
 
 At Port Melbourne the same Infatuated self-devotion 
 is observable. On the railway pier enthusiastic followers 
 of Izaak Walton sit all day long, unmindful of the 
 trains, which nearly push them off into the sea. The 
 hawsers of the mail steamers may decapitate them, or whirl them away 
 in fragments — their enthusiasm suffers no abatement. In Sydney, also, 
 anglers will sit over the water while the sharks nibble at their toes ; 
 they do not care so long as they get a bite. This fervour would not 
 be surprising if Australian fish were worth catching, but they are not. 
 They are of different shapes and sizes, and have various misleading 
 names; but, as far as eating goes, they are all alike — flavourless, coarse, 
 and dry. 
 
 AN "agent" 
 
 G3
 
 66 
 
 A USTRALIAN SKE TCHES 
 
 Adelaide is a bright, cheerful city, very prettily situated on a small 
 plateau raised above the general level of the plain which stretches from 
 the foot of the hills to the shore of St. Vincent's Gulf. Adelaide is 
 modest, and does not compete with Melbourne and Sydney. Melbourne 
 is proud of its fine streets and its trams, Sydney of its harbour, but 
 Adelaide "blows" about nothing. Still, Adelaide has its "brick-fielder," 
 
 HSIUNG EXTRAORDINARY 
 
 which blows like all creation. This is the north wind, which comes 
 down hot off the centre of the continent and carries all before it. In 
 a north wind Adelaide's modesty is so apparent that you can see nothing 
 else ; she is veiled in an impenetrable mist of sand, pebbles, waste-paper, 
 and other unconsidered trillcs. 
 
 Adelaide on wheels is a curious study. The tramcars are all drawn 
 by horses, and arc of the old American pattern, with top seats and an 
 awning, the latter giving a very cumbersome look, especially in a gale
 
 A DUSTY DAY 
 
 A VISIT TO ADELAIDE 67 
 
 of wind. The mail coaches are 
 extremely ancient, ugly, and noisy, 
 most of them dating from the 
 early days when they were built 
 to stand the rough wear of bush 
 roads ; consequently they are in- 
 destructible. I have sketched one 
 of these conveyances in a dust 
 storm as I saw it, with an unfor- 
 tunate gentleman alone in a pri- 
 vileged seat on top. There is another conveyance called a " carette," 
 which is the wonder of this city, to which it is peculiar. It is like a 
 piece of a railway carriage tacked on to the outside platform of a 
 tramcar, the whole running on small wheels, which increase the appear- 
 ance of heaviness and clumsiness. These vehicles are a comparatively 
 new invention, though their appearance suggests a survival from last 
 century. 
 
 In nearly all 
 Australian cities the 
 post - office is the 
 most important build- 
 ing. Adelaide is no 
 exception to this rule. 
 The stranger in 
 search of the inter- 
 esting is sent to the 
 post-office first of all. 
 It is a fine building, 
 out of all proportion 
 
 A SKETCH IN THE POST-OFFICE
 
 68 
 
 A US TRALIAN SKE TCHES 
 
 to the size of the city. The central hall is an excellent place in which 
 to study character. Here, all letters addressed to the post-office, and 
 all unclaimed letters, are tabulated alphabetically, the names of addressees 
 being placed in frames on screens, where any one may inspect them. 
 Here come the " new chum " — a rather rare creature now — to look for 
 letters from "home"; the feckless "remittance man," to see if that 
 letter "with enclosure" has arrived; the widow, anxious for news from 
 the relatives of the late lamented ; the old identity, whose daily task 
 it is to come and scan this board, vaguely expecting, like Mr. Micaw- 
 ber, that something will " turn up." All these and many other characters 
 come in hope of finding their names on the board, and while some 
 may be seen to leave in various stages of the dejection of " hope de- 
 ferred," others rush off to the delivery window and eagerly demand the 
 expected letter. I noticed one man w^ho went through all the names 
 
 on the board, and now and then made a 
 note of some name. I was informed that 
 this was an " agent," who made small 
 " commissions " by informing people who 
 could not read, or who are unable to go to 
 the post-office, when letters arc awaiting 
 them. 
 
 North Terrace is a pretty boulevard, 
 though not sufficiently patronised by the 
 Adelaide gentry, who seem to prefer Rundle 
 Street, with its narrow footways and mis- 
 cellaneous shops, as a place for promenad- 
 ing. Strolling along North Terrace, I came 
 on Robert Burns, "presented to the city 
 
 STATUE OK ROBERT BURNS— ONE i , o .^r A ^ T /^ 1 1 * C * i. " 
 
 LEG ur TO DATE ! by thc South Austraiiau Caledonian bociety.
 
 A VISIT TO ADELAIDE 
 
 69 
 
 It is a speaking likeness of the poet, who seems to be complaining that 
 they have put him into striped trousers, one leg of which he has torn 
 off in his rage. Walking round to observe the expression of the angered 
 poet, I found him wearing the usual complacent smile, and not trousers 
 at all. The effect from the back is caused by a pillar placed behind 
 the poet to support him. It was unkind of the Adelaide Caledonians 
 to provide this reminder that their national poet frequently needed the 
 aid of some such visible means of support. 
 
 On North Terrace the ministers of religion mostly seem to meet, 
 probably on their way to 
 or from the public library. 
 I sketched a typical group, 
 and should gather that, as 
 a rule, the lot of a colonial 
 divine is not a hard one ; 
 those seen about the towns 
 do not give the impression 
 of overwork. At the same 
 time, I am told that often 
 the ministers in country 
 districts have very hard 
 times, as they have to travel 
 great distances to fulfil their 
 duties, and often have very 
 small stipends. 
 
 In Adelaide a large number of people appear to live all day in the 
 streets. Many of these are bookmakers, and jobbers in mining shares 
 and their clients ; the rest seem to be made up of country people and 
 loafers. The note of the loafer in these parts is independence ; he is 
 
 CLERICAL TVrES IN ADELAIDE
 
 70 AUSTRALIAX SKETCHES 
 
 never looking for a job, but he 
 is not above taking an occasional 
 contract for "deep-sinking" at an 
 adjacent bar. One type, which 
 the most hasty traveller cannot 
 miss in any part of Australia, is 
 the Chinese market gardener. He 
 is a thrifty, peaceable creature, 
 who works hard and lives anyhow, 
 and finally returns to China to 
 live on his savings. Chinese wo- 
 men are not allowed to immigrate, 
 hence "John" does not multiply; also, the number of Chinamen per- 
 mitted to land is strictly limited, though few people would vote for the 
 total exclusion of these Celestial visitants. 
 
 THE MARKET GARDENER 
 
 ADELAIDE TYI'ES
 
 Football Notes 
 
 I AM quite prepared to be told that these caricatures of Australian 
 footballers, my first impressions after seeing an hour's play, are 
 libels on the famous athletes of the country. Out of the many 
 thousands who go to sports of this kind, probably not twenty go with 
 
 the object of seeing the hu- 
 morous side of it. All are 
 terribly serious. Their thick- 
 necked, long-bodied, bandy- 
 legged Herculean cousin is, 
 in their eyes, a perfect 
 Adonis. Their long, lanky, 
 favourite, all bone and sinew, 
 is, in their eyes, an Apollo 
 Belvidere. In fact, in every 
 case they merely look through glasses of sportsmen, admiring the speed 
 and cleverness of their favourites, not thinking of onlooking for the 
 artistic effect ; and when they see their champion depicted, as seen 
 through the microscope of the caricaturist, they are naturally surprised 
 and incredulous. I do not expect Australians to be different in this 
 respect from other nationalities. An exception, by the way, I found, 
 
 71 
 
 A GOOD RUN
 
 72 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 strange to say, among the sensitive Americans, when I gave my first 
 impressions of their football, a game in which there is more science 
 than in all other football systems in the world put together — a game 
 in which fatalities are numerous, and is played with a seriousness and 
 intenseness unsurpassed in any game I have ever seen. The players 
 I have seen depicted in pictures compared with gladiators in the 
 
 THE UMPIRES LOT IS NOT 
 A HAPPY ONE 
 
 Roman amphitheatre, yet a more ridiculous, grotesque, pantomimic 
 crowd, on the field, it has never been one's lot to see. Long massive 
 hair, falling all over the head ; huge india-rubber shields on the noses ; 
 extraordinary shapeless garments padded all over ; shields on the legs, 
 on the fingers ; pads on the heads ; protections on the cars — nothing 
 could be more absurd ; yet to their public they are Adonises and 
 Apolloes. There is as much difference between the Victorian and
 
 FOOTBALL NOTES 
 
 73 
 
 READY TO START 
 
 American ,^ame of football as there is in the costume worn by the 
 players. I notice the Victorians are attired above the waist as scullers 
 in a boat-race, and from that down they have loose kind of garments 
 cut below the knee ; stockings and boots, seemingly not protected in 
 any way. When I saw 
 the game, some of these 
 stockings slipped down, 
 and the players wore 
 wide - awake hats, and 
 other caps, which fell off 
 in the scrimmage, al- 
 though most of the 
 players are bareheaded, 
 with short cropped hair. 
 As regards the game it- 
 self, I can only say that 
 
 SCORING-BOARD
 
 74 
 
 AUSTRALIAN SKETCHES 
 
 I was too busy in picking out the most ludicrous on the field — the 
 duty of the caricaturist — rather than in watching the play. But what 
 
 SIGNALLING A COAL 
 
 I saw of it Struck me as the fastest game I have ever seen. Hands 
 are used, legs, heads, everything, in breaking down all the rules of
 
 FOOTBALL NOTES 
 
 75 
 
 other football systems, with the one object of speed. Science must 
 therefore to a great extent suffer. Every man seems to play his best 
 individually. The combination is nothing compared with the 
 
 A THROW IN 
 
 combination in any other football I have seen ; although, no doubt, it 
 exists. The science of the Victorian game of football may be too 
 quick for a stranger to grasp at first sight, or an artist to depict with 
 justice. 
 
 Butler &. Tanner, The Sclwood Printing Works, Frome, and Londoo.
 
 Novels by • . . 
 
 • • . Guy Boothby 
 
 SPECIAL AND ORIGINAL DESIGNS. 
 Each volume attractively illustrated by Stanley L. Wood and others. 
 
 Crown Zvo, cloth gilt, trimmed edges, 5s. 
 
 Mr. RUDYARD KIPLING says:- 
 
 " Mr. Guy Boothby has come to great honours now. His name is large upon 
 hoardings, his books sell like hot cakes, and he keeps a level head through it all. 
 I've met him several times in England, and he added to my already large respect 
 for him." 
 
 PHAROS, THE EGYPTIAN. 
 
 " This powerful novel is weird, wonderful, and soul-thrilling. Mr, Boothby succeeds in making 
 it almost real, and its marvels and mysteries almost credible. There never was in this world so 
 strange and wonderful a love story, and Mr. Guy Boothby's admirers will probably agree that 
 the most marvellous fiction he has ever produced is 'Pharos, the Egyptian.'"— 77/^ Scotsman. 
 
 ACROSS THE WORLD FOR A WIFE. 
 
 THE LUST OF HATE. 
 
 BUSHIGRAMS. 
 
 THE FASCINATION OF THE KING. 
 
 DR. NIKOLA. 
 
 THE BEAUTIFUL WHITE DEVIL. 
 
 A BID FOR FORTUNE; Or, Dr. Nikola's Vendetta. 
 
 IN STRANGE COMPANY: A Story of Chili and the 
 
 Southern Seas. 
 THE MARRIAGE OF ESTHER: A Torres Straits Sketch. 
 
 . LONDON : WARD, LOCK & CO., Limited 
 
 1
 
 NEW COMPLETE LIBRARY EDITION OF 
 
 G. J. Whyt e-Melvill e's Novels 
 
 Large Crown Zvo, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. per volume. 
 
 THE late G. J. Whyte-Melville, uniting, as he did, the qualities of poet, 
 novelist, sportsman, and leader of society, has long been acknowledged to 
 stand above rivalry when dealing with sport and the romance of old. Although 
 the sale of his works has always been large, the publishers feel that the time has 
 now arrived to issue an edition more worthy of his fame, and have therefore 
 pleasure in announcing a monthly issue of his novels, complete in about twenty- 
 five volumes. Each volume will be illustrated by front-rank artists, well printed 
 from type specially cast, on best antique paper, and neatly and handsomely bound 
 in cloth gilt. 
 
 1. KATERFELTO: A Story of Exmoor. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by LuCY E. Kemp-Welch. 
 
 2. CERISE : A Tale of the Last Century. 
 
 With Four Ilkistrations by G. P. Jacomb-Hood. 
 
 3. SARCHEDON: A Legend of the Great Queen. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by S. E. WALLER. 
 
 4. SONGS AND VERSES, and THE TRUE CROSS. 
 
 With Five Illustrations by S. E, Waller. 
 
 5. MARKET HARBOROUGH, and INSIDE THE BAR. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by John Charlton. 
 
 6. BLACK BUT COMELY: The Adventures of Jane Lee. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by S, E. Waller, 
 
 7. ROSINE, AND SISTER LOUISE. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by G. P. Jacome-Hood. 
 
 KATE COVENTRY. 
 ROY'S WIFE. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by LuCY E. Kemp-Welch. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by G. P. Jacomc-IIood. 
 
 10. THE GLADIATORS: A Tale of Rome and Judaea. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by J. Am!;R0SE Walton. 
 
 11. HOLMBY HOUSE: A Tale of Old Northamptonshire. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by LuCY E. Kemp-Welch. 
 
 LONDON: WARD, LOCK & CO., Llmited. 
 2
 
 <«^. NEW LIBRARY EDITION OF -Ur^, 
 
 Henry Kingsley's Novels. 
 
 Edited bv CLEMENT K. SHORTER. 
 
 Well printed on good paper, from type specially cast. Neatly and handsomely bound. 
 Illustrated by eminent artists. Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. per volume. 
 
 Tress Opinions. 
 
 " To Mr. Clement Shorter and to the publishers the unreserved thanks of the public are warmly due. 
 There can be no finer mission from the world of fiction to the world of fact than the putting forth of these 
 ennobling novels afresh and in a fitting form." — Daily Chronicle. 
 
 "To renew your acquaintance with Henry Kingsley is for Henry Kingsley to stand forth victorious all along 
 the line. His work, in truth, is moving and entertaining now as it was moving and entertaining thirty odd 
 years s.go."— Fall Mai! Gazette. ^^___^ 
 
 1. THE RECOLLECTIONS OF GEOFFRY HAMLYN. 
 
 With a Photogravure Portrait of Henry Kingsley, and a Memoir by 
 Clement K. Shorter. Illustrated by Herbert Railton, 
 
 2. RAVENSHOE. 
 
 With Frontispiece by R. Caton Woodville. 
 
 3. THE HILLYARS AND THE BURTONS. 
 
 With a Note on Old Chelsea Church by Clement K. Shorter. 
 Illustrated by Herbert Railton. 
 
 4. SILCOTE OF 5ILC0TES. 
 
 With Frontispiece by Lancelot Speed. 
 
 5. STRETTON. 
 
 With Frontispiece by George M. Henton. 
 
 6. AUSTIN ELLIOT, and THE HARVEYS. 
 
 With Frontispiece by Walter Paget. 
 
 7. MDLLE. MATHILDE. 
 
 ^Vith Frontispiece by Holland Tringham. 
 
 8. OLD MARGARET, and other Stories. 
 
 With a Frontispiece by Robert Sauber, 
 
 9. VALENTIN, and NUMBER SEVENTEEN. 
 
 With a Frontispiece by R. Caton Woodville, 
 
 10. OAKSHOTT CASTLE, and THE GRANGE GARDEN. 
 
 With a Frontispiece by W. H. Overexd. 
 
 11. REGINALD HETHEREGE, and LEIGHTON COURT. 
 
 With a Frontispiece by Gordon Browne. 
 
 12. THE BOY IN GREY, and other Stories. 
 
 With a Frontispiece by A. Forestier. 
 
 LONDON: WARD, LOCK c<v' CO., Limited. 
 3
 
 Works by Ethel Turner 
 
 (Mrs. H. R. CURLEWIS). 
 
 Croiun Si'^, cloth gilt, bevelled boards, gilt edges, 3s. 6d. each. 
 
 -ft 
 
 " Miss Ethel Turner is Miss Alcott's true successor. The same healthy, spirited tone 
 is visible which girls and boys recognised and were grateful for in ' Little Women ' and ' Little 
 Men,' the same absence of primness, and the same love of adventure." — The Bookman. ' 
 
 THE CAMP AT WANDINONG. 
 
 Illustrated by FRANCES EWAN and others. 
 
 MISS BOBBIE. 
 
 Illustrated by HAROLD COPPING. 
 
 THE LITTLE LARRIKIN. 
 
 Illustrated by A. J. JOHNSON. 
 
 SEVEN LITTLE AUSTRALIANS. 
 
 Illustrated by A. J. JoilNSON. 
 
 THE FAMILY AT MISRULE. 
 
 A SEQUEL TO THE ABOVE. 
 
 Illustrated by A. J. JOHNSON. 
 
 Square Fcap. %vo, cloth elegant, gilt top, 2s. 6d. each. 
 THE STORY OF A BABY. 
 
 Illustrated by St. Clair SIMMONS. 
 
 THE LITTLE DUCHESS, and other Stones. 
 
 Illustrated by Sydney Co\yell, 
 
 LONDON: WARD, LOCK & CO., Limited.
 
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