THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA RIVERSIDE Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN 1 Plate I. Frontispiece. Fig. 1. THE AUTHOR. E jjoiinir fttriitovtro OF THE 1845 to 1901. AND SOME OTHER THINGS OF INTEREST, DIVERS AND SUNDRY. TREASURED UP BY George f. Chambers, 4f,.& /i * OF THE INNER TEMPLE, BABRISTKB-AT-LAW ; J.P. FOR THE BOKOUGH ; I.ATE CAPTAIN, 1ST. SUSSEX ENGINEER VOLUNTEERS. "Oft a retrospect delights the mind." ( DANTE.) 'Let Diaries therefore be brought in use." (LoBD BACON.) EAST-BOURNE: PRINTED AND SOLD BY V. T. SUMFIELD. STATION STREET. 1910. Price 12s. 6d. nett. TO THE LADY EDWARD CAVENDISH; A NAME FOEMING A LINK IN MY MEMORY BETWEEN THE OLD AND THE NEW AT EAST-BOUENE. 1864, June 5: 1910, February 3. A2 V " Say not always what you know ; but always know what you say. ". ( CLAUDIUS.) preface. I have often been urged to write a book such as the present, but it was the following editorial paragraph in the East-Bourne Chronicle of December 4, 1909, which "fixed up" the idea: " As it never rains but it pours, the further letters of local Reininicsences published to-day, come almost as a matter of course. And a contribution in this connection from Mr. Chambers posseses naturally a special interest, for probably nobody has a greater fund of material to draw upon than that gentleman, who for a lengthy period has been closely identified with the public and social life of East -Bourne. We hope Mr. Chambers may find time to " materialise " the hint included in his letter, and record his recollections in a manner and on a scale to cover practically his life-long acquaintance with the town. Such a recital, produced from Mr. Chambers' inexhaustible resources and rendered in the readable style of which he is peculiarly capable, would be of more than passing interest, and be welcomed by a great many of the inhabitants. " I have nothing to say in self-defence if I should be accused of presumption or vanity, and I will content myself by stating that I have endeavoured to avoid as far as possible mentioning anything which has already been treated of either in my well-known Hand- Book for East- Bourne, or in Mr. R. J. Graham's East- Bourne Recollections, published in 1888, or in Mr. J. C. "Wright's By-gone East-Bourne, published in 1902. vi Preface. Here the insertion of some words written by Lady St. Helier will be most appropriate : " When I remember all the kind friends and interesting people I knew, and realise the great gaps that remain, and the large number of those I shall never ee again, a great cloud of sadness darkens the recollection. " ( Memories of fifty Tears, p. 186. ) As regards tbe details given, and the way in which they are presented, I have taken Lady St. Helier's book as a model. It would be well-nigh impossible to name all the kind people who have helped me by offering hints and suggestions, and the loan of books, and documents. But I am under special obligations to the Rev. R. D. Pierpoint, a friend of 60 years standing, for reading the proof sheets, and to him, and to other friends, for assistance in verifying dates and facts as to which I thought that my memory was at fault. Even now, with all the help that I have received, it is extremely possible that some of my details may need revision, not that I have any intention of putting forth a, 2nd edition for the purpose. With respect to the illustrations, I am under special obligations to Mr. Alderman Howe ( of the Firm of G. & R. Lavis) for much co-operation and assistance; especially in supplying copyright originals by purchase. But I must not forget some other kind friends. Lady Lindsay- Hogg has placed at my disposal a portfolio of water-colour paintings done by her mother Mrs. Cowley about 1 860 ; and Mr. E H. T. Streatf eild several sketch- books of the late Mrs. Ogle's ; and pictures, of still earlier date. Mr. C. D. Gilbert, Major Molineux, Mr. U. R. Burke, Dr. Jeffery, Dr. Colgate, and Mr. E. H. Emary have also assisted me with the loan of various pictures. It has been difficult to make a selection from the number Preface. vii of pictures placed at my disposal. My list might easily have been doubled. The Book has grown very far indeed beyond the limits originally contemplated for it. I sat down to write, as I thought, enough MS. as would suffice to make, at the outside, perhaps half a dozen Articles, of 2 or 3 columns each, in the East-Bourne Chronicle; and the reader now sees the growth of the MS. owing to the mass of material stored up, almost unknown to myself. I had no idea that I had done so much ; or given so much time to public w r ork in East- Bourne until the record of it came to be digested for the purposes of this book ; or that I had made in the town such an undue number of speeches, on such a variety of subjects. It would have been better for myself materially in every respect, if I had done much less ; and had appeared much less in public, both as a speaker and a controversial <. Jf .. Lethen Grange, Sydenham. October, 1910. Contents. What are the Contents ? ( Loce'i Labour Lost.) PREFACE LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. The Author's origin and antiquity. How to spell East-Bourne the wrong way. William the Conqueror cited. Ancestors. The South Gloucester Militia in 1806. i 4 CHAPTER II. A TOPOGRAPHICAL TOUR ROUND THE TOWN, WITH ANECDOTES OLD EAST-BOURNE AND MEADS. Willingdon. A tragic Picnic. Rattan. Entertainments there. Mr. W. B. Thomas. The Thomas Family. Great Snow-storm. A prehistoric Battle. Skeletons. The Cemetery. The Gore. Motcombe Pond. Old Postal arrangements. The old and the new Vicarages. Compton Place Road. The Gilbert Family. Major Willard. Compton Place. Lady Fanny Howard. Mr. R. B. Stone. Meads. Mr. Caldecott. Holywell. Two Picnics there. The Countess De Noailles. Lady Howard De Walden. Tragedies at Beachy Head. The Lamb Inn. East-Bourne Fair. Water Lane. 5 26 CHAPTER III. A TOPOGRAPHICAL TOUR ROUND THE TOWN, WITH ANECDOTES. CENTRAL EAST-BOURNE. Grove Road. Bourne Stream. Sir J. Leach. Lord Thurlow. Stocks Bank. Town Hall. The Squirrel. Rose Cottage. Elm Cottage. Major Wilford. Wesleyan Chapel. Literary Institution. New Inn. South Street. Performing Fleas. The Brother Blacksmiths. A Dilapidated House. Larkfield House. Mr. Rawdon. The Terrace. Old Residents. Old Footpaths. Prentice Street. East-Bourne College. The Wish. Devonshire Park. Cliff Cottage. Proposed town of " Burlington. " The first Earl of Burlington. The Susans Farm. The Graham Family. Terminus Road. Thomas Morris, cricketer. Oak Cottage and Charles II. Terminus Road once a cornfield. Coming of age of the 8th Duke of Devonshire. Historic houses in Hartington Place. 27 41 x Cot) tents. CHAPTER IV. A TOPOGEAPHICAL TOUE BOUND THE TOWN, WITH ANECDOTES. THE SEA HOUSES. Marine Parade. Round House. Field House. Houses built during the Crimean War. Gowland's Library. Its antiquity and early tenants. Captain L. K. Willard. The Albion Hotel before it became an hotel. The Earl of Ashbumham. Anecdotes of. Sea Beach House. The Yacht Cygnet. Abolished Coastguard Station. War Department property. The two Miss Gordons. The Great Redoubt. Royal Parade Sea Wall. Grievances of the Fishermen. Proposed Harbour. Martello Towers. Collier Ships. 42 5 1 CHAPTER V. ROYAL AND DISTINGUISHED VISITORS. Children of George III. Foreign Princes and Princesses. Visits by the Duke of Cambridge. Grand Duke and Duchess of Hesse. Grand Duke and Duchess of Baden. Princess Christian and the " Alice Hospital". Opening of the Hospital by the Prince and Princess of Wales. Street Decorations. Tea Party at Compton Place. Satirical publications respecting the visit. Visit of the Marchioness of Lome. Suppressed anecdote. Visit of the Duchess of Albany. Visit of the Prince and Princess of Wales. Distinguished Russian, Chinese, and French Visitors, and others. Astronomical, Political, and Ecclesiastical Visitors, with notes and anecdotes as to some of them. 52 68 CHAPTER VI. MILITARY AND NAVAL EPISODES. The Author's interest in military matters. Anecdote of the first Duke of Cambridge. Troops quartered at East-Bourne during the Crimean War. Sussex Artillery Militia. Norfolk Artillery Militia. The De La Warr Family. The Volunteer Movement. The East-Bourne Rifles. The Sussex Artillery Volunteers. The Sussex Engineer Volunteers. Visits of the second Duke of Cambridge for Artillery Experiments. Anthony's Hill. Lord Wolseley. "Old Boney." Shipwreck in 1849. Loss of the Dalhousie in 1853. Wreck of the Gannet in 1882. Naval Reviews at Portsmouth. 69. ..85 CHAPTER VII. COMPANIES, SOCIETIES, INSTITUTIONS. Literary Institution. Coal and Clothing Society. Blanket Loan Society. Coal Company. Church Institute. Mutual Improvement Society. A celebrated Shakespeare Reading. Charity Organisation Society. East-Bourne Choral Society. Purcell Glee Society. Devonshire Club. "House of Commons." Its Sessional Dinners. Reflections on its usefulness. Regrets at its discontinuance. 86 97 CHAPTER VIII. CANDLES, GAS, AND WATER. Old-fashioned lighting arrangements. Rushlights. Tallow Candles. Wax Candles. Various Oils. Candlesticks and Snuffers. Formation of the Gas Company. Its first Officials. Its remarkable prosperity. Street Lighting. Meter Lamps. Local Acts of Parliament. The Water Supply. 98 i o i Contents. xi CHAPTEE IX. LAW, POLICE, MEDICAL. Police arrangements in 1851. Names of the Magistrates. Major N. Willard. Mr. E. J. Graham. Magistrates' Clerks. Where Sittings were held. The status of a Mayor. The first Borough Bench. Anecdote of a Golf Player. High Constables and Parish Constables. Modern Police. Local Law suits. Celebrated Crimes. Crime rare in East-Bourne. Local Medical Men- Formerly few in number, with little to do. Now numerous, but still with no much to do. Dr. D. J. Hall. Mr. E. Colgate. Dr. G. A. Jeffery. 102110 CHAPTEE X. LITEEATUEE, SCIENCE, AND AET. Local Newspapers. Old East-Bourne Guides. Local Authors. E M. Caldecott. W. Brodie. Lady Catherine Long. Distinguished Visitors. Astronomical Observatories. Natural History Society. Prominent members of the Society. Loan Exhibitions. Old Maps of the Parish. Professor Huxley. The Herschel Family. J. H. Mortimer. Arts and Industries Society. Shakespearian and other Eeadings. m 121 CHAPTEE XI. EAILWAYS AND TEAVELLING. Travelling to East-Bourne in the "Forties." The last Coach. Opening of the Railway to Lewes. To Hastings. To East-Bourne and Hailsham. Eailway Stations. The Market. Proposed Eailway from Battle. Proposed Eailways from London by Lewes and Brighton and their effect on East-Bourne. New lines in the year 1864. The " Ouse Valley" Line. The "Surrey and Sussex" Line. The " Tunbridge Wells and East- Bourne Line". Obstruc- tive policy of the Brighton Company. Mr. J. P. Knight. The Willingdon Spur Line. Mr. G. A. Wallis as a Eailway Promoter. Proposed Line to Birling Gap and Seaford. Eailway Accidents. In Clayton Tunnel, 1861. At Mayfield, 1897. Through Trains from the North of England. Bournemouth and Through Trains. History of their introduction into East-Bourne. The proposed Tramway to Pevensey. A Sensational Train. 122 143 CHAPTEE XII. GAMES AND SPOETS. Early Cricket at East-Bourne. Cricket at Brighton. Cricket at East-Bourne in the " Sixties ". Cricket at Compton Place. Curious coincidences on a P. and O. Steamer. Origin of the Devonshire Park. Stool- Ball. Point-to- Point Eaces. Eaces at Beachy Head. Fox Hounds. Harriers. First Eegatta. Pedestrian Feat. Golf. "Spelling-Bees." "Living Chess." "Book-Teas." '44155 CHAPTEE XIII. ECCLESIASTICAL. General. Church Bates. Sunday Bands. Visits of the Diocesan Con- ference. The Parish Church. Its Eestoration. Distinguished Preachers. Anecdotes of and by the Eev. T. Pitman. Tithe Commutation. Dr. Brodie. Clerical Vestments in the "Fifties." The Pitman Institute. St. Michael's xii Contents. Church. The Rev. H. B. Ottley's Vicariat. Proposals for a new Parish Church. Trinity Church. Its enlargements. Bishop S. Wilberforce's visit. Christ Church. Services there for the Military. Military Funeral. St. Saviour's Church. Circumstances which led to its erection. Controversy afterwards. Warning aga.nst Organists. St. John's Church. Remarkable growth of Meads. St. Gregory's Chapel. St. Anne's Church. All Saints' Church. Intended to replace an Iron Church. Heart-burnings and litigation. All Souls' Church. Lady Victoria Wellesley's munificence. Difficulties owing to the soil. Patronage. Experiences of a Patron. St. Peter's Church. Replaced a temporary Church. 156 188 CHAPTER XIV. EDUCATIONAL. Private Schools in 1851 and earlier. Smock Frocks. Mr. J. A. Bown. Commissariat arrangements. Private Schools in the new town. Elementary Schools. Great efforts made by the Church of England. Very little done by Dissenters. Unsuccessful attempts to force on a School Board. Great Fancy Fair in 1895. County and Borough Councils as Education Authorities. 1 89 1 96 CHAPTER XV. ELECTIONS, PAROCHIAL AND MUNICIPAL. Sketch of the Local Government arrangements up till 1859. The first Local Board. The great epidemic of 1863. First system of main drainage Incorporation of the town in 1883. Wanted a Town Hall. Bickerings over a site. Author a member of Local Board. Steps taken to bring about Incorporation. Proposed inclusion of Willingdon. Guardians of the Poor. Lady Guardians. County Council Elections. The danger of splitting votes. Political Dissenters. End of the Author's Career. 197 205 CHAPTER XVI. EAST-BOURNE BILLS IN PARLIAMENT. The Caldecott Museum causes a Bill to be passed. Encroachments of the Sea cause a Bill to be passed. Mr. G. A. Wallis as Mayor. His desire for more powers causes a Bill to be brought in and passed. The ups and downs of the said Bill. The Salvation Army very unpopular. Parliamentary controversy respecting its misconduct. Proposed purchase of Water Works Municipal Trading. To what extent desirable. 206 211 CHAPTER XVII. SEA WALLS : TOWN HALLS : PUBLIC PARKS. Encroachments of the Sea on the Sussex Coast. The Sea-front before any wall was built. The western extension of the wall. Mr. James Berry. Mr. M. Vidler. High Tides in 187:; and 1877. The Improvement Bill of 1879. Opposition thereto by the "Do-nothing Party." Roads sometimes flooded. History of the Town Hall. Difficulties in finding a Site. The various Sites discussed. Stocks' Bank finally selected. Continued opposition on the part of the " Do-nothings. " Plans selected and rejected. The controversy as to these Plans. Open Spaces. The controversy as to the South Fields. Negociations with Mr. Gilbert. Liberal offer on behalf of Contents. xiii the Duke of Devonshire. Strong public opinion in favour of a Park in the Town. Final settlement of negociations prolonged through many years. Hampden Park, good in itself, but far away. Hospitals. 212 224 CHAPTER XVIII. ELECTIONS, PARLIAMENTARY. Effect of the growth of population on the increase of the number of Voters. East Sussex Polls from 1832 till 1880. East- Bourne Division Polls from 1885 to 1910. Notes on most of the Candidates during that period. Election meetings in former days. 225 235 CHAPTER XIX. MISCELLANEOUS. Population statistics. Guy Fawkes Day. A Snow hut. East-Bourne Postal arrangements in 1874. Season Extension Movement. The Guardian Newspaper and Mr. Disraeli. A Sermon on Sheep-stealing. Convicted of manslaughter for stealing a pair of breeches. Russian prisoners at Lewes. Unreformed Corporations .Bradford or Bedford Well. Ladies at Public Dinners. An Old Style dinner. A Drive in Derbyshire. A visit to Holker Hall. East-Bourne Printers. Fire Engines. Lord R. Churchill. The Lanyon Family. Bread the "Staff of Life," (sometimes.) Weddings, 1846-1902. Syllabub Parties. A Garden Party at Compton Place. How Fiction may become "History". Pigs as Engineers. Banks at East-Bourne. Sussex Coaches in 1804. Sea-Bathing. East-Bourne in 1809. East-Bourne in 1812. East- Bourne Bathing in 1819. A Fancy Dress Ball. A China (not Chinese Story) 'The Story of a Clock. Links with the Past. Sunday League Excursions to East-Bourne. A Ladies' Committee. A "Liberal" Dinner at East-Bourne. The Wreck of the Nympha Americana. Extracts from old letters of Dr. Brodie. The penalties attached to Authorship. 236 271 CHAPTER XX. " PADDING " AND " SCISSORS AND PASTE. " Personal. The Times Newspaper. Changes in English manners and customs. The "Hunt Sermon." Mr. Gladstone and newspapers. Deeds and legal documents. A dog and cat story. A Sabbath-breaking dog. Debating Societies. Practical v. unpractical Temperance Reform. English and Welsh. The Economy of Time. Tick, Tick, Tick. A Waterloo Myth. A Waterloo Fact. Visits to the Battle-field of Waterloo. Unfamiliar Women's Christian Names. Novel experiences, exciting or otherwise. Mid- Victorian Meal-times. Visits to the Galleries of the Two Houses of Parliament. A Gladstone Anecdote. Coins as Measures. The Duty and Advantages of showing Civility to strangers. Clerical Surnames. An Offer of Marriage: 1802 Style. 272 295 INDEX ... 296 XIV " Let us satisfy our eyes with the Memorials, and tilings of Fame, that do renown this city. ( Twelfth Night. ) Hist of illustrations. Fig. Page i The Author Plate i Frontispiece 2 Silhouette of the Author, 1846 Plate ii faces xvi 1 The Author, 1851; ,, xvi 4 Tea-house at Old Ratton Plate in faces 5 5 The Gore, East-Bourne !) )) 5 6 Rev. Alexander Brodie, D.D .. Plate iv faces 8 7 Mrs. Brodie 8 8 The old Mills in the Mill-field, 1855 Plate v faces 9 9 Motcombe Pond ,, ,, 9 10 Old Barns near the old Parsonage ,, ,, 9 ii The Lamb Corner before being widened Plate vi faces 12 12 The Old Vicarage and Worge's House 12 J C. D. Gilbert, Esq., J.P Plate vii faces 16 14 The Manor House ,, ,, 16 15 The yth Duke of Devonshire Plate vni faces 18 16 Compton Place 18 '7 The "King's" Bedroom at Compton Place ... Plate ix follows vni is Mr. F. J. and Lady Fanny Howard, and Family Plate x faces 20 *9 The Site of St. Peter's Church 20 20 The Hobby Bank, Meads, and St. John's Church Plate xi faces 22 21 Meads as it was, from the Downs Plate xii faces 24 22 Oxen ploughing Plate xni faces 25 23 The Cottage and Gap at Holywell ,, >, 25 24 Holywell, from the Gap 25 25 The "Charles" at Beachy Head, 1851 Plate xiv faces 27 26 Beachy Head showing base of the " Charles" 27 27 The Squirrel Inn Plate xv faces 29 28 Back buildings of the Squirrel ,, ,, 29 29 Wall of Rose Cottage Plate xvi before XVH 30 "Sheep- wash Pond" and Parish Pound 3 The old Vestry Room ,, 32 The Grove Plate xvii faces 31 33 Stocks Bank 3i 34 Dilapidated house in South Street Plate xvin faces 33 35 Coach Office 33 36 Trinity Church, 185; Plate xix faces 36 37 Sea-front from the Wish Tower, 1855 >, ,, 36 38 The Wish Tower, 1840 Plate xx faces 38 39 Heatherly's Library, 1819 3 40 A High Tide at Splash Point Plate xxi faces 43 4 A High Tide opposite the Albion 43 42 The Field House and the Marine Parade Plate xxn faces 45 43 The old Fishing Station and Groynes ,, ,. ,, 45 44 Garden Party at Compton Place Plate xxin faces 56 45 Firemens' Arch, 188} Plate xxiv faces 57 46 Boatmens' Arch, 1883 > >i 57 List of Illustrations. xv "What have you there? A picture, Sir!" (Timon qf Atkeiu.) 47 Tower No. 71 Plate xxv faces 69 48 Officers of the 2nd. Sussex Artillery Volunteers 69 49 Interior of Great Redoubt with Troops encamped 69 50 Officers of ist. Suss. Eng. Vols. at Sheffield Park Plate xxvi faces 76 51 Wreck of the Nympha Americana, 1 747 Plate xxvn faces 84 52 Wreck of the 2Viarn.es at East-Bourne, 1822 ... 84 53 East-Bourne House of Commons ; the Cabinet, 1885 Plate xxvm faces 93 54 Mr. E. J. Graham, J.P Plate xxix faces 98 55 Mr. F. W .H. Cavendish, J-.P 98 56 Dr. G. A. Jeffery, J.P 98 57 Mr. E. Colgate 98 58 A Drawing-room Screen Plate xxx faces in i9 The Observatory at Northfield Grange 121 60 Opening of the Eail way at East-Bourne, 1849 Plate xxxi faces 124 6 1 A typical train of old style Engine and "Coaches" ... 124 62 Miss Bracebridge fishing off Langney Point, 1824 Plate xxxii faces 152 63 St. Mary's Church, before external alterations, 1868 164 64 St. Mary's Church, Interior, circa 1840 Plate XXXHI faces 166 65 The old Parsonage next the Parish Church 173 66 Eev. H. E. Whelpton Plate xxxiv faces 176 67 Eev. T. Pitman 176 68 Eev. E. W. Pierpoint 176 69 Foundation-Stone laying, All Saints' Church Plate xxxv faces 1 83 70 Foundation-Stone laving, All Souls' Church, Plate xxxvi faces 186 71 Schools Bazaar, June 1895: Opening Day ... Plate xxxvn faces 193 72 Schools Bazaar, June 1895: Third Day Plate xxxnn faces 194 73 Opening of the Main Drain, 1866 Plate xxxix faces 197 74 Members of the last Local Board (27 Portraits) Plate XL faces 198 75 Members of the First Town Council (35 Portraits) Plate XLI follows 200 76 Foundation-Stone laying, Town Hall Plate XLII follows XLI 77 Presentation of Mace Plate XLIII faces 203 78 Nomination Paper of T. B. Eowe as Councillor Plate XLIV faces 204 79 Langney Fort wrecked by the Sea Plate XLV faces 206 80 Oafc Cottage, Terminus Eoad 206 8 1 The Coast-line of East-Bourne at various dates 214 82 Declaration of the Poll, December 6, 1885 Plate XLVI faces 225 83 Admiral Field, M.P 225 84 Holker Hall, Lancashire Plate XL viz faces 240 85 View at Meads, 1860 240 86 Louise, Duchess of Devonshire Plate XLVIII faces 256 87 Schools Bazaar, June 1895: Balloon Ascent ... Plate XLIX faces 260 88 The Author's Study at Northfield Orange ... 260 89 The 4 " Charleses " at Beachy Head, circa 1825 Plate L faces 269 90 Colliers unloading at East-Bourne, 1845 2 ^9 91 Beachy Head (Old Engraving dated 1787) ... Plate LI 273 92 The Yacht Cygnet afloat Plate LII faces 376 93 The first Lugger built at East-Bourne, 1844 ... 276 94 The Mill-field, looking S., circa 1860 Plate LIII faces 285 95 The Site of the Eoyal Parade, circa 1833 ... 285 96 Extremes in Social Scale (East-Bourne), Biigh Life Plate Lrv faces 286 97 Extremes in Social Scale (East-Bourne), Low Life 286 98 A Life-Boat of the Eoyal National Life-Boat Institution 288 tt Corrigenda. PAGE 34. A somewhat full account of Mr. Eawdon and his house will be found in E. D. MEBBITT'S History of East-Bourne College, 1897. 46. line 22. Dele all the allusions to Salamanca, ft,;, line 15, et seq. For " Sovereign " read " Half-a-Crown." 74. line 34. For " Volunteer Corps " &c. read " Cinque Ports' Rifles." ' 83. line 17. For "Mayflower" read " Seaflower." CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. " gt lifaljr jrrrluirf, fashioning flgt " $n fofcirfr Iris baict s|0ultr foanbrr." (KEATS.) TAe Awtfcor's origin and antiquity. How to spell East-Bourne the wrong way. William the Conqueror cited. Ancestors. The South Gloucester Militia in 1806. BOOKS of the nature of this one often begin with a statement of when and where the author was born, but it can be a matter of very little interest to the readers of this book to know that I was born on October 18, 1841, at Upton-on-Severn, Worcestershire, my father being at the time a young M.D. in attendance on the 8th Earl of Coventry who consented to become one of my godfathers. After his death in 1843 my parents went to Colchester for several years, and finally settled in London in 1848, whence I took innumerable journeys to East-Bourne at short intervals for health reasons, because London air, and water full of living creatures, did not agree with me. I have often been invited, and not unfrequently urged, to commit to paper some of my Recollections and Reminiscences of East-Bourne both in respect of people and things. Such notes as I may be able to put down B 2 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. I. may possibly have some interest for certain people, but it would be affectation on my part to hold out any idea that they could be of any public importance. Indeed my sole justification for going into print on such a theme is that I lived in East-Bourne for 29 years straight off (1873-1902), and spent there a large portion of the previous 22 years. Say for the present purpose that 22 added to 29 make 60. I began keeping a diary on January 1, 1854, and have continued to do so with hardly the break of a day ever since. I shall therefore not draw wholly on my imagination for my facts ; and during the whole period, I have stored up newspaper cuttings and printed papers of every sort relating to East-Bourne. Before I make a start I will answer in print a question which has been put to me scores of times by word of mouth, "Why do you spell East-Bourne in two words and with a big B ? " Answer : Because William the Conqueror's tax collectors did so when they made the Domesday Book. They called the place " Borne." Another answer might be, because the two chief owners of the soil, the heads of the families of Cavendish and Gilbert have always done so and still do so ; whilst a third reason which ought to carry weight in these s. d. days is that, without any question, the one-word spelling by putting into prominence the syllable "East" has done much to prejudice English people living outside Sussex against our town as being "evidently from its name" an east-wind sort of place. I have heard this urged many times by people at a distance as a reason why East-Bourne could not possibly be a desirable place of residence. Moreover the one-word spelling is apt to engender the pronunciation of Easbun which is hideous. As a last shot I will remark that in my younger days the common name of the place amongst all ranks was, in conversation, very generally "Bourne," descending, with the cottagers, to "JBoorne." I propose in these notes to adhere as far as seems convenient to the chronological order of the matters dealt with, but as I go along it will certainly be found desirable 'CHAP. I.] Introductory. 3 to depart very often from this principle, so perhaps it will be safer to confess at the outset that these notes are altogether destitute of principle. Whilst I have a tolerably connected recollection of most things that have happened since 1848, I can very well remember several incidents which date back to 1845 and 1846, but as most of these were events of a family nature the reader will not be troubled with many of them. Though my main object is to deal only with matters of history which came directly under my own observation, it will be worth while occasionally to mention a few things which were told to me at various uncertain dates by people who before my time were themselves contem- porary with the people and events which they themselves talked to me about, late in their own lives. Perhaps I ought to explain in limine, that my grandfather, the Rev. Alexander Brodie, D.D., was Vicar of East-Bourne from 1810 till 1828, when he was killed, leaving a widow who survived till 1864 and eleven children one of whom survived till 1908. The family house was The Gore, where my grandmother Mrs. Brodie lived till the end of her life, as did her three unmarried daughters, Maria, Lydia, and Julia, till the end of their lives, the last of them dying in 1892. Thus I had in my earlier years, from 1845 onwards, many opportunities of hearing of events which occurred in the early part of the first half of the 19th Century, and of witnessing many of the later events. But as it happens, the oldest reference in this volume in point of date came to me through another and quite different family association. In many guide books relating to East -Bourne a quotation appears to the effect that in 1804, when Napoleon's invasion of England was supposed to be threatening, the South Gloucester Militia was one of the militia regiments which was quartered in the camp near East-Bourne, assembled to resist the invader who not only never came, but in my humble opinion never seriously intended to come, whatever his wishes might 4 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. I. have been. The militia regiment in question was com- manded by George 4th Lord Dynevor who had with him his wife and family ; the latter included six daughters, all of whom lived to a great age, and lived together as old maids at the family seat in Gloucestershire. From the eldest of these ladies, when staying with her, accompanied by my wife, her cousin, about the year 1870, 1 received a very interesting account of East-Bourne as it was in 1804, and I regret not having taken down at the time notes of what she told me. However, I may summarise the situation by saying that the links between my life and the town of East-Bourne are both numerous and varied, as will be readily discovered by the readers of these pages if there are any persons who have patience to wade through them. " Hafce matt limit tljou sboforst ; It&s i|ra tfyov. krurfoesi.'' (King Lear.) Plate III. To face p. 5. Figs. 4-5. G. & R. Lavis, East- Bourne. TEA-HOUSE AT OLD RATTON. THE GORE." [5] CHAPTER II. A TOPOGRAPHICAL TOUR ROUND THE TOWN, WITH ANECDOTES. OLD EAST-BOUBNE AND MEADS. " Wi&lk Mt mt about i\t Skfon." (Comedy of Errors.) Willingdon. A Tragic Picnic. Ration. Entertainments there. Mr. W. B. Thomas. The Thomas Family. Great Snow Storm. .A Pre- historic Battle. Skeletons. The Cemetery. The Gore. Motcombe Pond. Old Postal Arrangements. The Old and the New Vicarages. Compton Place Road. The Gilbert Family. Major Willard. Compton Place. Lady Fanny Howard. Mr. R. B. Stone. Meads. Mr. Caldecott. Holy- *well. Tivo Picnics there. The Countess De Noailles. Lady Howard De Walden. Tragedies at Beachy Head. The Lamb Inn. East-Bourne Fair. Water Lane. I HAVE found some difficulty in deciding how best to put together in a readable shape the materials which make up this and the 2 following chapters. After due consideration I have thought it would be best to suppose that I was taking my readers for a walk all round East-Bourne, stopping here and there wherever I remembered a place or an incident worth mentioning. I will begin with Willingdon because the road thither was my favourite walk in my younger days, and I often passed along it on foot or driving. The Vicar of Willingdon in 1850 was the Rev. H. James who lost his life at Beachy Head under peculiar circumstances which were never quite cleared up. He and his wife and two children were members of a picnic party which assembled at the Head, and in the course of the day he and a friend started, proposing to descend to the shore. After a while the friend returned alone to the picnic party wondering what had become of Mr. James, who insisted on making the attempt to descend in spite of remonstrances as to the danger involved. In the end he lost his footing, fell to the beach, and was killed on the spot. Mrs. James 6 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IL and her two children went to live at Brighton and entertained me, who was at school there, on some of my Saturday half-holidays. The boy's name was Renouard, a name I have never heard since. He died as recently as 1909, as Major-General, R.E. The girl's name was Arabella. I do not know what became of her. Ration comes back to me as the'locale of my first Sussex children's party in January 1851. That also was associated with a tragedy. Amongst the guests- staying in the house was a Mr. Streatfeild of The Rocks, Uckfield, and his two little daughters, one of whom Marion by name was one of my partners in the dance. A few days afterwards Mr. Streatfeild was out shooting,, and carrying his gun carelessly it went off and wounded him in the heel. Lock-jaw ensued and he died. Besides the dancing, one item in the entertainment was a giant conjuror, or something of that sort. The part was taken by Mr. William Brodrick Thomas, a brother of the then Squire of Ration. An amusing thing once happened to Mr. Thomas. He became famous as a landscape gardener,. and the Duchess of , wishing to consult him,. invited him to lunch. He arrived in due course, and asking for the Duchess was told by the butler that at the moment she was engaged. The butler, when he learnt that the visitor had come as the consulting gardener, thought he would do him a kindness, and invited him to have a bit of dinner in the servants' halL Mr. Thomas, who liked a joke, accepted the invitation, though the grandson of a peer. The repast being over,, he asked the butler whether there was any chance of his seeing the Duchess, and getting an affirmative reply was led upstairs to the drawing-room. Judge of the butler's horror when, on taking the "gardener" into the drawing- room, he was thus accosted by the Duchess : " Oh ! Mr. Thomas, I am so glad to see you. I have been expecting you to lunch and have been waiting for you;" shaking hands effusively with the newly-arrived stranger. The butler, covered with confusion, tendered to Mr. Thomas the most abject apologies when he left the house in the afternoon. CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 1 Counting the present young heir to the property, I have known five generations of Thomases at Ration, reckoning from July, 1848, when I was taken there for a drive by Dr. Hall, who was paying a professional visit. That was in the time of Mr. Inigo Thomas who died not very long afterwards, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Freeman, who, dying in 1859, was succeeded by his second son, Frederick Freeman. This Squire died at San Remo in 1868, and was the father of the present Squire. Mr. Arthur Goring Thomas, the musical com- poser, was a brother of Mr. F. F. Thomas, and the present Sir C. I. Thomas, late of the Admiralty, is another brother. The present house at Ration was built in 1895, on the site of an older and very ugly house burnt down in December, 1891. The original mansion house was lower down the hill, nearer Willingdon, and some portion of it still remains, fitted up as a lounge for tea parties. There is a tale told to the effect that the property changed hands through the running of a greyhound in the reign of George I., the winner of the race and assignee of the property being a draper at Lewes named Durrant. I .have not the least idea whether this story is authentic, but Burke's General Armoury gives a greyhound's head as the crest of a family named Durrant, and the grey- hound portrayed in a painted window in Willingdon Church has been said to represent the aforesaid animal. After Mr. F. F. Thomas's death in 1868, Ration was let for a short time to Colonel White, afterwards Lord Annaly. Then it was let to Sir J. W. H. Anson, killed in a railway accident at Wigan in August, 1873. Next came an American family named Heinemann who remained there for seven years, from 1874 till 1881, and wished to buy the property but it was not for sale. I dare not print any anecdotes of that period of the world's history, though I am sorely tempted to give one in particular. On January 19, 1881, the day after a tremendous snowstorm, I walked over to Ration to lunch. That snowstorm can never be forgotten by those who saw it. The cutting on the Willingdon Road adjacent to the 8 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IL chalk pit a was filled with drifted snow up to, and above the level of the footpath. The depth in places was not less than 10 or 12 feet. There was a complete block on the railway, and for 30 hours, January 18-19, no trains passed into or out of East-Bourne from London. This stonii had something of a counterpart on March 9, 1891 ; so much snow fell on the previous night that for some hours on the morning of the 9th no trains could get through to Lewes from East-Bourne. The brow of the hill nearer East-Bourne seems to have been once the site of a battle in prehistoric times. In January 1876, I had working in my garden a labouring man who had lived at the Old Town for upwards of half-a-century. This fact, when I became acquainted with it,' induced me to enter into conversation with him, and quoting as near as possible his own words, what he told me was that, " in 1822 he was one of a gang of about 10 men employed on the Willingdon Road in cutting away the crown of the hill between Baker's Mill and the Cemetery, for the purpose of improving the road. In executing this work they found, a few feet below the surface of the ground, a very large number of skeletons lying closely packed. The largest number got out in one day was 14 ; they frequently got half-a-dozen a day. This went on for several weeks, and he had no doubt that upwards of 100 skeletons were found. The ground all round was, he strongly believed, full of bones, but of course they only excavated just so far as was necessary for the width of the road. The bones were all carefully collected and buried in a pit in the Churchyard, under the superintendence of the then Vicar (Dr. Brodie). Nothing was found with the bones except a large number of iron carving knives (sic), from which the handles had disappeared. There was nobody to take any interest in the matter, and no further search was made. One gentle- man did, however, tell him that the Romans once had a great big town at Bourne which was called Anderida." b (a) Behind this chalk pit, to the N., there is a narrow sylvan footpath which used always to be called "Jack o" Dandy's Lane." (b) Of course this identification of East-Bourne with Anderida must be considered as baseless. Pevensey is too surely recognised as the site of Anderida. Q CO O 00 cc - 1 Plate V. To face p. 9. Figs. 8-10. Mills in the " Mill-field,' sketched by G. F. Chambers. June 25, 1855. Old Barns near the "Old Parsonage." G. &* R. I. avis, East-Bourne, OLD VIEWS AT THE OLD TOWN, EAST-BOURNE. Copyright. CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 9 My informant fixed the date by the circumstance that it was during the progress of the excavations that the Thames Indiaman was wrecked at the Seaside, and this, as it is well known, happened in 1822. He was called away from his road work to assist at the wreck, which had drifted from the Wish to near the Great Redoubt, and was eventually made fast by a cable attached to tower No. 73, which tower has long since ceased to exist. The only Archaeological fact which I can connect with Roman traces at Ocklynge is the discovery, some time during the "Sixties," of a small brass Roman coin of Antoninus Pius, which is now in my possession. The incident just related of the finding of skeletons has since been abundantly confirmed from other sources. The ridge on which we may be supposed to be still standing was in my younger days always called "Ockland" (generally pronounced "Auckland"). This has been considered a modern version of "Oakland," not that I ever saw or heard of any oaks growing there ; and the soil is, like all the soil of East-Bourne, unfavourable to oaks. One thing I think is certain, that "Ocklynge" is a modern invention, but whence emanating I know not. When the necessity for providing a cemetery arose, which was when the Churchyard of the Parish Church was closed by an Order in Council, there was great diffi- culty in settling the site of the proposed cemetery. The parish authorities wished to place it somewhere on the slope of the hill to the N. of Mill Gap as a site fairly central and sufficiently out of the way. The Gilbert Trustees objected to give up the land in question, alleging that it was not sufficiently out of the way, having regard to future building probabilities ; and events showed that their arguments were sound. The N. portion of the actual site was purchased as the result of a Vestry vote on November 9, 1855. It was regarded as too far out of the way, but since that day, as is now clearly seen, building operations have spread not only up to but beyond the Cemetery in the direction of Willingdon. Another objection, and a reasonable one, was that the (c) Suss. Arch. Coll., vol. xli., p. 4, 1898 ; vol. Hi., p. 189, 1909. 10 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. II. site, facing as it did the W. with not a tree on it was too exposed ; and that trees would never grow there. This prophecy was, in a measure, well-founded, and it has taken the best part of half-a-century to obtain such shelter as there is. When in 1874 it was proposed to add to the original cemetery of four acres several additional acres on the S. side, the Misses Brodie, as the owners of The Gore, a large house half way down the hill, claimed their Statutory rights to prevent land being used for burials within 200 yards of their house. Hence the semi-circular line which bounds the portion used 011 the southern limits of the Cemetery property. The point was that the Burial Board could under the Act of Parliament buy any land they could get, but could not use it within the above-mentioned limits. At the last minute a nice little point of law arose as to the terminus a quo from which the 200 yards was to be measured whether from the walls of the house proper or from the wall of the back yard treated as " cartilage." The latter was accepted as the proper starting point. After the death of the last of Mrs. Brodie's daughters who owned the house, The Gore and its seven acres was sold to an enterprising local financier who made a heap of money out of his speculation by pulling down the house and cutting up the site and gardens for building. Hence the names of Gore Park Avenue and Gore Park Road. The house had no architectural features. It had been originally a farm-house and had been largely added to by my grandfather. When it was pulled down it was found that much of the masonry consisted of blocks of hard chalk. In the construction of the laundry and wash-house, some old ship timbers had been used. Nothing of the original structure now remains except the billiard room, which was partly re-constructed in the " Fifties " to accommodate a billiard table presented to Mrs. Brodie by Mr. Freeman Thomas then the new squire of Ratton, who did not wish his- sons to grow up billiard players. Apparently he thought that it was of no moment that Mrs. Brodie's sons and grandsons should be similarly, demoralised. CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 11 Motcombe Lane used to lead to Motcombe Farm r but nothing agricultural remains except the farm-house. On the barn door it was customary to nail up the skins of all the stoats and weasels caught, pour encourager les autres. Opposite the front door there was, in my early days, a very large farm pond with fish in it, fed by a spring in the chalk, and used by the farm cattle. At a later period (about 1858) it was discontinued for farm purposes, reduced in size, and fitted up as a reservoir to supply the New Town with water, a line of iron pipes being laid down for the purpose. This scheme soon broke down as a water supply, but the subject belongs to another chapter. (See chapter XIII. , post). Near the lowest point in the Ocklynge Road there used to be 2 cottages on the W. side, one of which was- the head post-office down to about 1857, when a new post-office was established in the Terminus Road. The postmaster up to that date had been a very antediluvian person, and the interior economy of the office, which was about 8ft. square, was of similar character. I well remember the institution of the second or mid-day post in from London in 1851. This innovation, though liked by the better class of residents, was not, I think, very acceptable to Mr. T. Cook, the postmaster, or his two letter carriers who served the whole town. At Cook's death his daughter, Miss Mary Cook, who had done most of the work for several years previously, was appointed official postmistress and remained such for several years after the office had been moved to the Terminus Road. The old town cottage was. kept up for a long time as a sub-office in the hands of a fly-driver named Payne, his wife doing the work. The great advantage of the second post was that it gave us the London newspapers of the same day. Not that these were very numerous or 'very varied. They did not comprise much beyond the Times (Liberal), the Morning Herald (Tory) and the Morning Post and Morning Chronicle of uncertain politics. The Herald and Chronicle both perished about the same time, say about 1860 for the latter and 18G3- for the former. I 2 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. II. For some years during the early part of the 19th Century, say from about 1820 onwards, a merchant of London, named James Peppercorne, who lived at Stepney, then a pleasant suburban neighbourhood, was in the habit of taking his wife and family to East-Bourne as summer visitors. Those visits led to their making the acquaintance of the various residents, including especially the Willards and the Brodies. This was the commence- ment of an intimacy which lasted till the end of the lives of all concerned, and of those then associated, 1910 sees but one survivor. A certain Miss Willard once lived in a house^ in the Ocklynge Road, the second to the N. of the Lamb, on the right hand side, and opposite to The Lawn. This lady was a sister of the brothers Willard mentioned elsewhere, tall and prim in person, a typical old maid of her generation. In the course of time Miss Willard went to stay with the Peppercorne family in Stepney, and following the usual custom, invited two of the young ladies of the house at which she was staying to pay her a return visit at East-Bourne. Father and mother consented, and the two girls, one about 17 and the other two or three years younger, were started off from London by the coach, and safely arrived at East- Bourne one day about the year 1831. They were soon waited upon by the gallant Major " Nick " Willard, who as Churchwarden, offered them seats in his pew on the following Sunday, and said he would fetch them and escort them to church. When they were ushered in to the pew, it was quite evident that they were neither expected nor wanted by the female members of the Willard family already in the pew, and their demeanour Tery much disconcerted the two young visitors whose shyness was aggravated by reason of the fact that the Churchwarden had walked away, no doubt to perform his official duties and seat himself somewhere else. The two visitors wore hats of some special form or trimming, which though perhaps of the newest London fashion did (d) This House, known as Franklin House, at the end of its career, was pulled down in 1909. After the death of Miss Willard it was occupied by an old Clergyman, the Rev. W. B. Robinson, Vicar of Litlington, and passed to his son-in-law, Mr. Franklin Travers. Plate VI. To face p. 12. Figs. 11-12. G. &> R. Lai'is, East-Bourne. Copyright. THE "LAMB INN" AND THE '-CORNER SHOP," before the Widening of the two Corners. G. &* K. Laz'fs, East-Bo Copyright. THE OLD VICARAGE; AND WORGES HOUSE, Church Street, East-Bourne. CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 13 not commend themselves to the East-Bourne residents who laughed at them. The result was a coolness on both sides, which however was made up to the young visitors by the hearty and abiding kindness of the old maid who had invited them to East-Bourne. The end of it all was that many years afterwards the younger of the two sisters married a gentleman who subsequently settled at East-Bourne, and died there as did his wife some years later, namely in 1905, at the age of 88. This and some other things mentioned elsewhere in this volume I heard at Croydon from the lips of the surviving sister then in her 95th year, on April 1, 1910. The original Vicarage was nearly opposite the Chancel of the Church and is shown in Plate VI., Fig. 12. It was a small and gloomy building, and Mr. Pitman,, the Vicar, found himself much pinched for room when his children grew up, as he had two sisters-in-law, his deceased wife's sisters, living with him. My grandfather bought The Gore as his private house, and treated that as the de facto Vicarage. Mr. Pitman coveted the piece of land in the Compton Place Road at the corner of Love Lane (now Vicarage Road) on which I afterwards built my house Northfield Grange, but the former owner, Mr. J. D. Gilbert, would not let him have it, so he was compelled to accept an offer made to him by the Earl of Burlington at the other end of Love Lane on which the present Vicarage stands. Many years afterwards, when Lord Burlington had become 7th Duke of Devonshire, he very liberally presented four acres to the Vicarage on the S. side in order to preserve for the occupants a fairly open view of the Downs in the event, which has come to pass, of houses being built towards the Links, or Westwards. The road now called Compton Place Road was originally and for a long number of years called the "New Road." It was made sometime in the early part of the 19th Century, in substitution for a public footpath or bridleway, by the two Landowners jointly, Lord George Cavendish and Mr. Gilbert, the grandfather of the present Lord of the Manor. Mr. Gilbert was in his 14 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. II. day an important public personage, having been M.P. for Helston and afterwards (1806) for Bodmin, and President of the Royal Society. His wife was a woman of mind and character. Amongst her public good works was that of dedicating a number of acres on the estate to allotment gardens. I have heard funny stories of her, though I do not remember her personally as I was only three or four years old when she died. My grandmother called to see her on a certain occasion and was told by the servant that his mistress was busy in the kitchen. Thither my grandmother went and was much surprised at finding Mrs. Gilbert only partly visible, the principal part of her body being up the chimney where she was oiling, or otherwise renovating, the smoke-jack which would not work. Once, on the occasion of a large dinner party, they had no dish of sufficient size to accommodate an unusually large turbot so Mrs. Gilbert removed the oval lid of a wine hamper and covering it with a table cloth had the fish brought to table on this extemporised dish. Being proud of her cleverness she partially uncovered the hamper lid to show her friends the situation of affairs. The Manor House though called so of recent years was not the original Manor House of the estate which was a flint-built house in the High Street, now turned into cottages. The present Manor House was built by Dr. Lushington, Vicar 17341779, the father of the well-known Sir S. Lushington, Judge of the Admiralty Court who retired in 1867. On the death of Mr. J. D. Gilbert in April 1854, his widow (a daughter of Lord Carew) and infant son continued to reside for many years at the family seat in Cornwall Trelissick, near Truro, where I paid them a visit on March 8, 1884. The situation of the house is very striking, overlooking the beautiful bay of Falmouth with its singularly interesting coast line. The East- Bourne house was occupied during many years by Mrs. Sancroft Holmes, Mr. J. D. Gilbert's widowed sister, and her son and four daughters. During that occupation I was a frequent visitor there and made the acquaintance CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 15 of two ladies the widows of two men who had at the middle of the 19th Century occupied very prominent positions in the public eye, Sir James Kay-Shuttleworth and Sir John Franklin. The former had been Secretary to the Committee of the Privy Council on Education, and the latter was the celebrated Arctic voyager. Lady Franklin's brave and untiring efforts to ascertain the fate of her husband are recorded in Sir Leopold McClintock's Voyage of the Fox and, with further details, in the more recently published Life of McClintock. Sir J. Kay- Shuttleworth's youthful son Ughtred (the present Lord Shuttleworth) was there occasionally, and I first made Ms acquaintance when he crawled out from under the dining-room table on a day that I happened to be there. By the way, is not "Ughtred" a most extraordinary Christian name ? I have never known anybody else who bore it. Mrs. Holmes afterwards went to live in Norfolk, and died there in 1885. Her son, Mr. J. S. Holmes, is a landed proprietor in Norfolk, living at Gawdy Hall, near Harleston. The Gilberts of the present line were not originally a Sussex family, but came into the county from Cornwall by the marriage of a Mr. Davies Giddy with Mary Ann Gilbert, an heiress descended from certain Gildredges and Eversfields. Mr. Giddy took his wife's name in 1817 and so founded or re-founded the Sussex family of Gilbert. The large house nearly opposite the Manor House pulled down in 1910, was long known as The Grays, and was the family house of the Willards, an old Sussex family. It passed out of the possession of the present head of that family, Mr. A. R. Hood, in 1909 under circumstances which I prefer not to explain in print. In my younger days its owner was Major Nicholas Willard who was, in a certain sense, the Parish of East-Bourne, for he was the chief Resident Magistrate, Parish Churchwarden, and Surveyor of Highways, As Magistrate he was an autocrat of the first water. At his death in 1852 he left a widow and two daughters. At his own request he was buried at 4.0 a.m. in the morning, a fine summer's morning. His daughters were Harriet 16 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [QHAP. II. who was Mrs. W. C. Hood, and Charlotte who afterwards married a Frenchman named Bataillard. I saw this gentleman on one occasion taking leave of The Grays footman on the railway platform by giving him a warm shake of the hand which I suppose was a French fashion, but certainly is not an English one. Mrs. Hood afterwards married Mr. C. Manby, a Civil Engineer, and resided at The Grays till her death. The Architecture and internal geography of the house was very complex, the street front having been burnt down in 1853 and re-built. I now come to Compton Place. Its history and how it became a Cavendish centre is sufficiently well- known, so I make no attempt to repeat it. When I first knew it, it was only occasionally occupied by the 2nd Earl of Burlington after the death of his Countess in 1840, so that his mother, Mrs. Cavendish, must be regarded as the tenant during my early years. She lived there with her bachelor son, Mr. (afterwards Lord) Richard Cavendish. I was walking with him one day along the drive at The Gore, where he had been calling, and he said casually "It is one of the advantages of being a younger brother of a Duke, that I can wear a straw hat." After his mother's removal in 1861 to Chislehurst (where she died in 1862, Lord Richard Cavendish dying in London in 1873) the Duke of Devonshire lent the house to his sister, Lady Fanny Howard, who lived there for about 22 years with her husband and children. During the greater part of that period, when the young Howards were boys, I played cricket there a good deal during many successive summers. In the later years of her life my visits there were for intellectual purposes, so to speak. I remember a delightful Shakesperian reading there on March 6, 1879, organised by my wife at Lady Fanny's request. After her death in 1885 Mr. Howard remained on at Compton Place till 1890, when he went to Angus House, Granville Road, where he died in 1897. All his sons and two of his three daughters survived him. A family group is represented in one of the plates. The gentleman in fur Plate VII. To face page 16. Figs. 33-34. . G1LBERT , Esq ., J P. Copyrif-ht. Copyright. MANOR HOUSE." CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 17 is Mr. Cecil Foljambe, M.P., who married Miss Louisa Howard. It is she who is holding the little boy. Mr. Foljambe afterwards became by creation Earl of Liverpool and (strange to say) took office under Sir Henry Campbell-Bannerman as Lord Steward. The little boy is now the 2nd Earl of Liverpool, Comptroller of the Household, 1910. When Mr. Howard moved to Angus House, he found that his butler had made away with 900 bottles of wine. Mr. Howard had been once M.P. for Youghal in Ireland, sitting as a Whig, but it was rather Lady Fanny who upheld the traditional politics of the house. She was a keen Whig, and with her I had many friendly discussions. During one, shortly before the Gladstone Home Rule split, she said in reply to my regrets at the way in which the old Whigs were drifting into Radicalism, " But you must admit, Mr. Chambers, that Hartington is a safe man." To which I replied " Yes, no doubt in himself, but one must judge of a man, including a peer's son and politician, by the company he keeps." I do not think that either she or I realised how soon Lord Hartington's political status would be submitted to a crucial test which, as we all know, he safely stood, and saved the integrity of the Empire. Like many members of the old Whig party in those days, Lady Fanny had not much liking for Mr. Gladstone in any of his public capacities though they were obliged to put up with him. Owing to the unchecked growth of the trees, Compton Place had become rather a damp house ; that is why Mrs. Cavendish left it in 1861. Sir Joseph Paxton of Chatsworth fame had been brought down to advise about it, and it was under his advice that the wide gap in the plantation on the W. side was made with the idea of letting in air from the Links. Compton Place was partly re-furnished and re- decorated and used occasionally in the " Nineties " by the 8th Duke, and during this occupation, King Edward VII. as Prince of Wales was an occasional visitor. The Duke was Mayor of East-Bourne in 1897-98. A Mayoral c 18 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. II. Ball on January 26, 1898, was the great social event of the winter of 1897-98, and on July 23, 1898, the Duchess gave a delightful garden party. Another of Her Grace's garden parties on July 28, 1900, was stigmatised by some democrats as an election trick. This evoked some newspaper correspondence as to which something will be found in Chapter XIX. (post.) The house at the corner of Compton Place Road, known as Grey stone House, was at an earlier period than I have just been speaking of occupied by a Mr. R. B. Stone, who was a grocer and kept a shop hard by. Giving evidence before a Parliamentary Committee on a Railway Bill, he spoke of Lord Burlington as a neighbour and friend of his, by way of impressing the Committee with a due comprehension of his local standing and importance. Thereupon the Counsel on the other side said " I think, Mr. Stone, you sell groceries to his Lordship, don't you ? " A question which Mr. Stone would rather had not been put. Meads in 1910 is a totally different place from the Meads of half-a-century previously. In the " Fifties " and " Sixties " it was an agricultural hamlet, with a few fishermen thrown in, and with no more than 5 or 6 houses above the status of labourers' cottages, and of those houses two were farm-houses and a third a house used as a sort of anchorite's cell. Of course there were two " pubs," the Ship and the Pilot. The farm-houses were Sprays Farm in the occupation of Mr. Joseph Gorringe, and the Place Farm (now Meads Place) which had been bought and annexed to the Cavendish property no further back than the early part of the 19th Century. That farm changed its tenants several times in my early recollection, and I cannot remember either the dates on the exact succession, but two of the tenants were named Rason and Filder, and the latter was there in 1858. It was not till after that time that the Duke of Devonshire decided on laying out the whole of that part of the Parish of East-Bourne for the building of large private residences, and the land for such purposes was taken up very slowly. Plate XI. represents the territory Plate VIM. To face p. 18. Figs. 15-16. I.avis, East-Bourne. Copyigkl. THE 7th DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. COMPTON PLACE." CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 19 surrounding St. John's Church when that Church was built in 1869. The third house which I have mentioned above at Meads was occupied by a very quaint person, Mr. R. M. Caldecott, who was a vegetarian and fresh-air enthusiast ; also a geologist and an author. Meads not being a sufficiently airy place for him, he bought several acres of land near Beachy Head whereon he built walls and had seats. His custom was to go up there and sit for hours and inhale the air of the Downs and sea. He was a very regular Churchgoer and rarely missed two attendances at the Parish Church every Sunday. His literary powers were concentrated in the Life of Baber, Emperor of Hindostan. I had a copy once. It was a singularly dull book and as I did not take the least interest in the great Baber I alienated the book for a few coppers, a step which I have regretted, now that I have become more conservative as to old documents. Mr. Caldecott left his geological specimens to the town and they were afterwards formed into what is called the " Caldecott Museum." He once gave a dinner party to two aunts of mine who came away more disappointed than surprised at the bill of fare. I think it was leg of mutton, currant buns and raw apples, their host limiting himself to the buns and apples. The house known as The Links was occupied in 1873 by a distinguished Indian General, Sir A. T. Wilde, K.C.B. He left East-Bourne in 1876 to become a Member of the Indian Council on the nomination of Lord Salisbury, then Secretary of State for India. His widow remains to this day one of our nearest neighbours and best friends at Norwood. The General's memory is perpetuated by the 57th Punjaub Infantry being known as " Wilde's Rifles." That portion of Meads which bears the name of Holywell deserves a few words. A spring there on the side of the cliff long bore in local Guide-books the designation of " a chalybeate spring," but this was a myth. Nevertheless Augustus Hare enshrined it in Ms book on Sussex published not very long ago. 20 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. II. Mr. Pitman once told me that he had had the water analysed, and that it was nothing but pure spring water, a fact which led many years afterwards to the East- Bourne Water Company utilising it for the supply of the town, though it is' not now habitually drawn upon. The sea-shore, formerly very accessible (but not so- now) through the gap in the cliff past a picturesque cottage, used to be a favourite site for picnics before the Water Company blocked it. I remember two picnics there. On August 28, 1862, I was present at one at which a very nerve-shaking incident occurred. My grandmother's carriage with its pair of horses had been driven down the fairly tolerable road to the sea-shore laden with some of the good things of this life. The horses had been taken out and tethered. Whilst we were enjoying our luncheon it was discovered that the two horses were quietly trotting up a coastguard path in the face of the cliff, thereabouts, I suppose, 200 ft. high ; and a false step would have brought one or both of them over and down to the beach where they must inevitably have been killed. The coachman, William Winter by name, frightened out of his wits, started to run after them, but it was quickly evident that even had he overtaken them he could have done nothing useful, so he wisely halted until the horses had reached the level grass at the top of the cliff where they began to browse, and where they were secured and brought back by an inland road none the worse for their gnasi-alpine experiences. The path is marked on Plate XIII., Fig. 24, with a cross. The other picnic I referred to was fixed to take the shape of a moonlight supper on the beach on August 3, 1887. The supper was duly served and the party, number- ing about 30, were seated or were squatting around eager to be fed. It was suddenly suggested that the moon was not giving an adequate supply of light for the supper to be enjoyed in comfort ; and it was then ascertained by one of the party that an eclipse of the moon was in progress. Before long the moon went nearly out and the supper had to be finished by such light as was Plate X. To face p. 20. Figs. 18-19. G. &* K. Lavis, East- Bourne. Copyright. Mr. AND LADY FANNY HOWARD AND FAMILY. G. &> K. l.avis, East-Bourne. Copyright. THE SITE OF ST. PETER'S CHURCH. CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 21 afforded by the lamps of the carriages and flys which were in attendance. In spite of this mischance 41 ftfytu feas a scimir of refcelrg Irg iriflfrt ; " Qrib all tout nurrg as a marriage tall." (BYRON). I always had a great fancy for moonlight parties. We had one at North field Grange on July 9, 1897, at which we mustered 115 people ; and another on July 21, 1899, with 64 guests, supper being served at several tables on the lawn or in the woods but this is a digression. There was one other private house at Meads, built at a later date, noteworthy in respect of the strange lady who occupied it for many years and who died only a year or two ago the Comtesse De Noailles, the widow of a French Count, but herself of English birth. She also, like Mr. Caldecott, was somewhat of a "crank," especially in her dress. She used to go about in flowing garments like a Bedouin Arab and with only sandals on her feet, but she was kind to the poor, and liberal in the distribution of her money, though it was distributed on somewhat fanciful lines. For instance she gave 1000 to the Anti-Vaccinationists ; and promised 1000 for the erection of a clock on St. John's Church, but some unreasonable condition was attached to the gift (I forget what it was) and her offer fell through. The Countess died in December 1908, and left her Meads estate and two-thirds of her residuary estate to found on the estate an orphanage for daughters of clergy of the Church of England, to be called " St. Mary's Orphanage." The chief aim is to provide helpers or sisters to aid in the promotion of good works, and the first object must be to give " abundance of health." The religious instruction is always to be in accordance with the principles of the Church of England. The testatrix left many directions as to the education of the children, among them that " no child under ten years of age shall be taught arithmetic except the multiplication tables (vide Herbert Spencer)." No girl defective in mind or body is to be admitted, and every candidate is to be examined by two fully-qualified phrenologists separately and 22 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IL independently, and no girl ' is to be admitted who is deficient in conscientiousness and firmness ; and upon this point the reports of the phrenologists are to be conclusive evidence. My wife and I once dined with this remarkable woman at her invitation, though we were but slightly acquainted with her. She afterwards went to live in Surrey, near Leith Hill. As regards De Walden House (or rather, now,, houses) a story may be told. It was built by the Lady Howard De Walden whose gigantic fortune was the talk of London in the " Eighties." The East-Bourne Water Company charged her with a Water-rent of 30 a year which she deemed excessive. Failing to get redress on appeal she decided to sink a well for herself and did so, saving the 30 a year charged by the Company ; but as the well cost 1000, to say nothing, of the annual cost of her pumping, it is a little difficult to see how Her Ladyship saved money by the enterprise she had shown ! However, she professed herself highly satisfied, on an occasion when I had tea with her, March 15, 1898, just after the new works had been finished. I shall have something more to say about Meads when I come to deal with St. John's Church in my Chapter on Ecclesiastical affairs (Chapter XIII., post.) As to Beachy Head I may say that there has been a tremendous falling off in the numbers and, I believe, in the variety of the birds frequenting it compared with the state of things which prevailed, say, in 1850. One day during the severe winter of 1855 two young men named respectively Bethel and Cobb went out to shoot wild duck on the Cuckmere near Exceat. They thought to return to East-Bourne along the beach and under Beachy Head, but were overtaken by the tide and tried to escape by climbing the cliff. Bethel was frozen to death ; Cobb was rescued, but not till the next morning when he was found by a dog belonging to a coastguard. I knew J. W. Cobb ; he afterwards took Orders and became Vicar of Kidmore End, Oxfordshir e CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 23 He had a married sister living on the Grand Parade at the time this tragic affair took place. Many years after the event, I heard that in 1868 or 1869 Lord Hobhouse and Mr. W. E. Forster, M.P., independently of one another, successfully climbed Beachy Head ; and since that date there have been many attempts, the majority I think unsuccessful, and not a few attended by fatal results. Beachy Head has always been famed for the existence of certain chalk pillars sticking out in front of it and known as " The Charleses." Tradition, I believe, says that the number was originally 7, but I have never met with the slightest proof of the accuracy of this statement. A newspaper cutting given me by a friend many years ago which bears date of December 1810, written on it in pen and ink, runs as follows : "The pinnacle at Beachy Head, called the Charles or Churles, which has been for years the terror and the wonder of the numerous visitors at East-Bourne, has fallen ; but as the fall fortunately took place in the night, no damage was done. Its ancient inhabitants (the foxes) being on their prowl, suffered no other injury than the loss of their habitations. The chalk that fell is computed at more than a million of waggon loads." I have in my possession a letter, undated, but written at a much later date, from the Rev. G. Stokes who was Curate at the Parish Church in 1853. He writes that on March 12 he walked to Beachy Head with Mr. E. Robinson " to see the great fall at the Cliff, and was told that the Charles Rock fell at 6.30 this morning." He adds " a noble pinnacle some 600 ft. high and the loss of which is greatly deplored. It was indeed a great loss to all lovers of coast scenery." The figure of 600 ft. is a most undoubted exaggeration. The portion of the pillar standing out as a pillar clear of the main cliff could not possibly have been anything approaching 600 ft. in height. I should think that even 200 ft. would be beyond the mark, judging by a collection of the various pictures which I have seen, taken at different times and by various people. The most authentic 24 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. II. drawing in existence (if any copies of it are in existence now) of Beachy Head as a whole is a lithograph published at East-Bourne about 1852, and drawn by S. R. Smith, a Master at the Gables School. I remember it well, but now possess no copy of it. A pen-and-ink sketch of the last surviving Charles (the one alluded to by Mr. Stokes) taken (I know not by whom) in 1851, forms one of my Plates, and I should say that it was very true to nature. I must now go back to the Old Town and make a fresh start along another route into the New Town starting from the Lamb Inn. This is known to be one of the oldest places of entertainment in the county and at the beginning of the 19th Century, when East-Bourne and the neighbourhood was alive with soldiers, it was at the Lamb Inn that the fashionable balls took place which have been often written about. In my early days the landlord was a man named George Picknell, a brother of the distinguished Sussex cricketer, Thomas Picknell. The large room, such as it was, and is, which had been used for festive purposes was also until long after the middle of the century the only room for public meetings in the Parish. In May 1852, a certain Dr. Darling came there to give a lecture on such occult subjects as spirit- rapping, table-turning and mesmerism. During the proceedings a tremendous thunderstorm occurred of such violence as to frighten the audience and many others who were not in the audience. The common people looked upon Dr. Darling as an emissary of the Devil, the science (save the mark !) upheld by him as Satanic, and the storm as a Divine manifestation to the same effect. It was in the roadway opposite the Lamb that the non-agricultural portion of the East-Bourne Fair was always held anmially on October 11, old Michaelmas Day. In 1849 I remember that the stalls and booths extended a long way up Church Street, adjacent to the Churchyard wall, past the Church Tower as far as Bay Pond ; but the last time I visited the Fair in a recent year the stalls had dwindled to two, and now they have disappeared altogether. The agricultural part of the Plate XIII. To f:ice p. 25. Figs 2224. G. <5r> A', /.avis, Enst-Bonrnf. A TEAM OF OXEN PLOUGHING. THE COTTAGE AND GAP AT HOLYWELL. HOLYWELL FROM THE GAP. CHAP. II.] A Tour round Old East-Bourne. 25 day's work was transacted at Upwick, and in the early part of the 19th Century as many as 10,000 sheep were folded there for sale in some years, but the highest number I remember seeing, or knowing of, was 3000, and that number has now I believe dwindled to hundreds. There was formerly held at Southbourne a Toy and Pleasure Fair on March 12, but as far back as 1819 that was described as " now of little note," and I cannot recall it at all. Proceeding towards the Railway Station the houses on the left, which are now numbered as in " The Goffs," are built on what used to be called the Moat Croft" Fields through which the Bourne, which often used to be called tautologically the " Bourne Stream," ran, until it reached a large pond behind the Artillery Drill Hall where it was impounded in order to provide water for driving a water mill close by. The mill as a mill has long ceased to exist, but some part of the house, after having been converted into a cottage, called the Watermill Cottage, has now been built into a modern house known as Bourne Side. The mill-pond as I first knew it was a very large one, covering I should think at least a quarter-of-an-acre, but it was curtailed on all sides to afford dry land for the gardens of the houses on the S. side of Upperton Road, and more recently has been drained dry and made into a kitchen garden. Overlooking it and erected on the N. side was a leaden statue of Neptune. The water is now conveyed underground through a storm-water sewer built to receive it and storm-water generally, and so reaches the sea. The name " Goffs " originally belonged to a small group of cottages built on the site of the dairy at the turning into Upperton Road ; and the large chestnut tree which now occupies the salient angle opposite, was in the timber yard of a wheelwright, which timber yard was not swept away until the house now known as No. 1 The Goffs, was built, somewhere about 1880. This tree has always been a feature. With the exception of the cottages just mentioned, and a large barn on the site of the Drill Hall, and Upperton Farm-House, there were no 26 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IL buildings on either side of the old road to the station (which bore the name of " Water Lane," after having at one time been " Watery Lane ") between Gildredge Farm-House and the Railway Station. It was widened in 1806 by subscription from about 8 ft. or 9 ft. to its present width, and the stream which ran down it was diverted to the W. side. All the land N.E. of the road was agricultural and belonged to the Upperton Farm. From the mill-pond northwards there was a large field called the "Mill Field," and not a house anywhere nearer, to the N., than Rodmill Farm and in an N.E. direction than the outskirts of Westham and Pevensey. The barn just mentioned was the last place at which I ever saw corn beaten out with the old English flail. " $ raimxri but ummbtx sittb, tying* totu ; totn mast $ntiom ia mt." '(Macbeth}. X [27] CHAPTER III. A TOPOGRAPHICAL TOUR ROUND THE TOWN, WITH ANECDOTES. CENTRAL EAST-BOURNE. tyt timt snfc fttb gjjur of tlgt jofott." (Twelfth Night}. Grove Road. Bourne Stream. Sir ]. Leach. Lord Thurlow. Stocks Bank. Town Hall. The Squirrel. Rose Cottage. Elm Cottage. Major Wilford. Wesleyan Chapel. Literary Institution. New Inn. South Street. Performing Fleas. The Brother Blacksmiths. A Dilapidated House, Lark field House. Mr. Rawdon, The Terrace. Old Residents. Old Footpaths. Prentice Street. East-Bourne College. The Wish. Devonshire Park. Cliff Cottage. Proposed town of " Burlington." The 1st Earl of Burlington. The Susans Farm. The Graham Family. Terminus Road. Thomas Morris, cricketer. Oak Cottage and Charles II. Terminus Road once a cornfield. Coming of age of 8th Duke of Devonshire. Historic houses in Hartington Place. I AM going to start now at the Station end of Upperton Road, and proceed down Grove Road, though at the epoch which this volume is supposed specially to represent (1851) it bore simply the vague name of " Southbourne," but a previous generation had regarded it as a continuation of Water Lane and so- called it. The first thing on the right to attract notice was the Parish Pound. Next to that was the " Sheep- Wash Pond " fed by the " Bourne stream," its overflow constituting the lower part of the Bourne stream which, traversing something like the line of the Terminus Road and Langney Road, found its way into the sea somewhere near Leaf Hall. The flow of water still continues but goes through a modern sewer. Next to the pond came the Vestry Room and Police premises, both of which are alluded to elsewhere. The Fire-Engine Station occupies nearly the sites just mentioned. Then lying back from the road was a tall gaunt house known as The Grove. It was built in the early part of the 19th 28 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. III. Century by J. Royer, one John Leach being the architect, and a very indifferent one if The Grove was a fair specimen of his skill. He came under the notice of Sir Arthur Piggott, M.P., Attorney-General in 1807, who advised him to become a Barrister^ The advice was taken, and eventually he reached in 1818 the high position of Vice-Chancellor of England ; was made Deputy-Speaker of the House of Lords in 1827 and died in 1834. Before Leach reached the Bench this is what is said to have happened : " Mr Leach Made a speech, Angry, neat, but wrong ; Mr Hart On the other part, Was heavy, dull, and long ; Mr. Parker Made that darker, Which was dark enough before; Mr. Cooke Quoted a Book, And the Chancellor said, 'I doubt.' "(*) These lines are said to have been composed by Sir George Rose, a well-known politician in the reigns of George III. and George IV. The Grove in my early days was let as a lodging-house, and afterwards became a preparatory school for boys, conducted by two Misses Shoosmith. Lad} 7 Piggott when she became a widow moved to Willingdon, and died there in the " Forties," many years after her husband. Two or three small houses finished the frontage of Grove Road on the right-hand side ; one of them, which I remember as Thurlow House, is said to have received its name because Lord Thurlow, the great Judge, once lodged in it. The last house on this side (but it was not really on this side, because it was round the corner) was a house which I remember as a grocer's shop, kept by a man named Turner. It was afterwards converted into a (a) Sir Arthur wandered about a good deal in a Parliamentary sense. He was first elected for Steyning at a By-election in 1806. At the General Elections of 1806 and 1807 he was elected for Arundel: at the General Election of 1812 he obtained a seat at Horsham ; at that of 1818 he went back to Arundel and died Member for Arundel in 1819. He was evidently a " Carpet-bagger " in modern electioneering parlance. (b) The Chancellor was the Earl of Eldon, and his favourite phrase was "1 doubt.' There is more than one version of the above poem [!] in circulation ; I quote that which is given in Campbell's Lives of the Chancellors. Plate XV. To face p. 29. Figs. 27-28. G. &* K. La-vis, East-Bourne. Copyright. THE "SQUIRREL INN, GROVE ROAD. G. fy K. f.aris, Copyrifhi. BACK OF THE "SQUIRREL INN. (Site of Gildredge Road). CHAP. III.] A Tour through Central East-Bourne. 29 1 private house, and Mr. J. F. Gottwaltz, an officer of the disbanded Rifles, lived in it. Then the Local Board acquired it for their Surveyor's office and residence. Finally it was pulled down and the site and garden taken as the site for the new Town Hall. I now go back to the Station to say something about the houses on the left side of Grove Road. The first was the Squirrel, afterwards called the Gilbert Arms, an old fashioned small inn mentioned again in Chapter XV. (post) and pulled down in 1873. Then came a stile and a farm road, the stile giving access to a footpath through the fields to the Sea-Side. Adjacent to this was a small private residence, called Rose Cottage, once Sir Arthur Piggott's, but occupied in 1851 by a Mrs. Johnson, the widow of a naval officer ; Mr. John Graham being the owner. This house had a good deal of history attached to it, some of it of a weird character, but this was before my time. It is said to have been haunted, and therefore once to have been sold cheap, the purchase money being only 30. This seems incredible. It was pulled down in 1882 and shops built on the site. Further on were some cottages used simply as such when I knew them, but which had at an earlier epoch belonged to the Parish and been used for Poor Law purposes. Amongst the documents preserved in the Parish strong room at the Technical Institute is the Order of the Vestry, dated 1825, for the sale of the " Workhouse in Watery Lane," as it seems to have been then called. The Poor Law purposes included at one time the spinning and weaving of materials for garments for the paupers. The master weaver was one Henry Pratt, who afterwards kept a grocer's shop, which is now 36 Ocklynge Road. Next to the workhouse came Elm Cottage, at one time the residence of Dr. D. J. Hall, and afterwards of Mr. R. J. Graham. Two small houses, named respectively Bourne Cottage and Lime Cottage (almost what one might call pill boxes), stood next beyond Elm Cottage. At some time or other the two had been thrown into one under 30 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. in. the name of Bourne Cottage. Here there lived a lady by name West, who afterwards married a Major Wilford, R.A. Miss West was a very hospitable woman and used to give what in those days were regarded as great parties at Christmas in spite of the smallness of her house. I remember going to one of them on January 20, 1859, but this was after her marriage. Her personal appearance was peculiar, her mouth being rather at the side of her face than in front, and twisted up in the corner. Major Wilford spent the whole of his time in walking. No matter the hour of the day or night, or the weather, or summer or winter, you would be certain to meet him somewhere in the place walking at the rate of about five miles an hour. He had one favourite way of stigmatising a man who if he had any religious tendencies, was objectionable to the Major. Such an one was " only a psalm-singing yea-nay fellow." Next beyond these houses we came to a sawyer's yard and a Wesleyan Chapel bearing the date of 1810. This was sold to the Baptists sometime in the " Sixties " and was converted into an ironmonger's warehouse about 1880, or earlier. Subsequently it was wholly trans- formed. Its history supplies a characteristic illustration of the way in which Dissenting places of worship become secularised, the congregations migrating. The last house on this side of the road was once the "Mechanics' Institution," alias the "Literary Institution." Immediately opposite Grove Road, in the prolongation which now constitutes Grange Road, there was a field used from time to time for circuses and shows of various kinds as also was a field behind the Squirrel. I remember one such show which included in its attractions some performing fleas which drew miniature carriages made, I rather think, of very fine brass wire. The licensed house at the corner of South Street, now called the New Hotel, used to be called the New Inn, and was the arrival place and starting place of the London coach in coaching days. Hard by there used to be a brewery which, when I knew it, bore on its front gate the highly respectable inscription " Established Plate XVII. To face p. 31. Figs. 32-33. THE GROVE.' C,>f.yr, k lit. HOUSE AT STOCKS BANK. CHAP. III.] A Tour through Central East-Bourne. 31 1749." About 1870, however, the then owner, Mr. Robert Cooper, seeking to combine business in this world with business in the next, lost the former, and I should suppose found ere long that a trade with spirits was far less remunerative than a trade in spirits. South Street as it now exists has been so completely transformed by re-building that there remain now no more than the three adjacent houses, numbered 10, 12, and 14, which were in existence in 1851. At that time a blacksmith's forge occupied the site of the new Independent Chapel. The blacksmiths were two brothers, Thomas and George Keeping, and their father had been a blacksmith before them. Thomas was Clerk at Trinity Church and never looked much like a blacksmith, but George was a typical iron-worker, and Longfellow's well-known lines describe him. Nearly opposite to the blacksmith's forge was a large wooden structure built in the early part of the 19th Century as a theatre and used as such. But in my days dramatic performances had long ceased and I only knew the place as a builder's workshop and then as a furniture warehouse ; and after it had been such for some years it was pulled down. Alderman Rowe possesses a play-bill of performances there in February, 1813. The Local Board owned it for some time, but sold it in 1883. The house next to Keeping's was occupied by William Morris, a burly old-fashioned tradesman, who l)esides being a watchmaker was a silversmith, an auctioneer, and all sorts of things. A little further along was a substantial private house of some size, with a good garden attached, which was owned first by a Mr. Lanyon and then by Mr. F. H. Gell, the Lewes Solicitor. Nearly opposite to this was another comfort- able old-fashioned house which before my time had been occupied by Dr. Ranking. I do not remember who had it after him, but it eventually became the property of a London solicitor named Truman, and was derelict for many years, windows broken, roof in holes and tumbling down. This was the result of a craze on the part of the owner because he thought (and in a sense 32 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IIL correctly) that in after years the land on which the- house stood would become worth thousands where in the " Sixties " he could only obtain for it hundreds. All the same, however, he must have lost several thousand pounds by the property remaining empty for, I suppose, at least 20 years ; whilst it was a hideous eye-sore and the resort of that class of the community who in modern language enjoy the delightful designation of " undesirables." Truman would neither repair it, nor pull it down, nor re-build it, nor allow anybody else to do either one of these three things. The road which runs parallel to South Street and now called Furness Road was a lane originally, and some shabby cottages still standing give a clue to its past history. Proceeding along South Street the last house on the right side, now occupied by Elliott's Stores, was the residence of an old seafaring man known as Capt. Hewitt. It was he who bought the furniture out of the Round House, Seaside, when that was pulled down. Standing on his doorstep and looking E. and S.E. in 1851 nothing would catch the eye except Larkfield House, The Wish Tower, two cottages on the cliff, a few houses in Cornfield Terrace, Trinity Church and Trinity Parsonage ; the last named would probably conceal three houses, two of which are now enrolled as part of Trinity Place, The whole of the intervening acres were grass land and cornfields reaching up to the garden wall of The Elms and coastwise to " Splash Point." Emerging from South Street and going towards the site of St. Saviour's Church the pedestrian, after passing one private house and three or four cottages, would reach " The Terrace," sometimes spoken of, by way of explanation, as " South Terrace." There were altogether 8 houses, built in twos, forming what would now be called semi-detached villas. The picture (on Plate XX.) is from a water-colour, by a painter named North, made in 1840, which came to me as a legacy from a member of the family of Sir Arthur Piggott mentioned a few pages back. All these houses were occupied by private residents in my early days, except No. 7, where lived Mr. A. Whiteman, the only Plate XVIII. To face p. 33. Figs. 3335. G. $* R. I.avis, East-Bonnie. DILAPIDATED HOUSE IN SOUTH STREET. G. & K. L,i-<,s, Katt-Koiiriir. Co/>yri' K ht. OFFICE FOR SALE OF TICKETS FOR THE COACHES. CHAP. III.] A Tour through Central East-Bourne. 33 local solicitor. Amongst other residents whose names I remember were Dr. Jeffery, the Rev. G. Stokes, Mr. Drury, Miss Mortimer and, at a much later date, Lady V. Wellesley, Mr. J. H. C. Coles, Mr. Pitman, and Mr. Crake, now Vicar of Jevington. I do not know that it is worth while to say much about footpaths and narrow occupation roads now either discarded or swallowed up in modern roads, but from a point just opposite No. 8 The Terrace, the roadway, now a mere back road for the convenience of the houses at the back of Cornfield Terrace, once marked the line of the " Shomer Dyke," a drain draining the South Street houses and having its outlet near the Wish. Eventually the dyke (ditch) was filled in and the narrow road formed which still exists robbed of its Mid -Victorian name of " Shomerdyke Road." Previously to this The Wish was reached by a narrow road starting from South Street and following nearly or quite the line of what is now College Road. Here a branch to the E. led to the sea-shore near the Wish Tower, and a branch to the W. past some farm buildings known as " Hollands Barn " to " Prentice Street " and up to Meads. Prentice Street was a small group of houses, the central figure of which may be said to be Miss Little's house, St. Winifred's, but that house and grounds passed through several stages of developement before it blossomed into St. Winifred's. In 1837 it was Southfield Lodge, the freehold property of Mr. Samuel Dobree, a London lawyer, great in making fireworks. Dr. Hall and Mr. F. Brodie were alumni of his in that art. From him it passed by purchase to Sir W. Domville, Bt., who lived there and died there about 1858. His son Sir J. G. Domville sold it to the Duke of Devonshire who let it to Mr. John Swift as tenant. Mr. Swift simplified the name to one word Southfields, lived there and died there in 1888. The property was then devastated : the long avenue drive from the Meads main road was cut through by the formation of Fairfield Road and the " Upper " Meads Road, and the house materially altered and enlarged to adopt it for scholastic purposes. Traces of D 34 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. III. the avenue by reason of many of the trees remaining may still be detected. But this is a long digression from South Street. Larkfield House now forms part of East-Bourne College, but when I first remember it it was occupied by Mr. C. W. Rawdon, a retired naval officer, who I believe built the house. It had one notable feature in a round tower somewhat in the style of the Irish round towers, and used as a lounge, and especially for the purpose of obtaining a wide sea-view. I perfectly well remember his taking me up the Tower when I was a very small boy, and he termed it the " Monkey Tower," but I suspect that that was a designation invented for the occasion either to amuse or frighten me. Rawdon was regarded as a pleasant and agreeable gentleman : he was given to that occupation which a century ago was considered especially the mark of a " gentleman," namely a willingness to drink too many bottles of wine in a week. Mrs. Rawdon was a sister of the Miss West already mentioned under Grove Road. I always thought it a great pity that when the East-Bourne College authorities purchased Larkfield House they should have pulled down this Tower. Granted that it would have been of no particular use to them, yet it served to distinguish the house as being something out of the common, so that when the Tower disappeared the house presented a very commonplace aspect to passers-by. Modern enlargements however have done a good deal to remove this defect. East-Bourne College was opened in 1867, the first Head-master being the Rev. J. R. Wood. He was a man of dignified presence and high personal character, but unfortunately (for him) was a Conservative in politics ; and this made his position very uncom- fortable, having regard to the then contrary trend of local politics. Eventually he left and set up a school for himself on the Grand Parade, which after some years he handed over to the Rev. R. V. F. Davies, going himself into Suffolk to become the Head-master of the Woodbridge Grammar School. The College Chapel was consecrated by the Bishop of Chichester on June 20, 1874. CHAP. III.] A Tour through Central East-Bourne. 35 At the supposed epoch of these early notes, namely 1851, Lark field House stood out in the open, surrounded by fields. The nearest inhabited house was a small one occupied by a baker named Dumbrill, and known as The Wish, which, added to and modernised, is now the property of Mr. W. L. Wallis. There has been a long, and I might almost call it an acrimonious controversy over the meaning of the word " Wish," and I have nothing of my own knowledge to contribute towards the solution of the problem. The suggestion that in mediaeval times there was a landing place of importance here seems inadequately supported by proof, which no doubt is available, that there once did exist a row of piles to the E. of the Wish Tower which might have carried planks to constitute a landing place. That " Wish " is a corruption of " Wash " seems much more plausible, especially if we may assume, as we are asked to do, that Wash means " a wet place." It is quite within my memory that the site of the Devonshire Baths was such a wet place, a sort of morass in fact, and it was also a matter of notoriety 40 years ago, that the reason the land now forming the Devonshire Park was made a park and was not built upon, was that it was so low as to be unfit for houses of the character as regards drainage facilities, which the Duke of Devonshire wished all the modern houses on his estate to possess. In 1852, I went to a picnic on the beach under the Wish Tower. The site was selected as not involving a long journey, but at the same time, as being quite out of the way of curious eyes, and of people likely to " lift " silver spoons and forks lying about ! Proceeding Eastwards from the Wish, there was nothing to interrupt the pedestrian save two houses, one called Cliff Cottage and the other Mount Pleasant, close by ; after which, if he did not walk warily, he would have fallen into an open stone quarry close to where the Cavendish Hotel now stands. It was a quarry of green sand-stone, such as that of which the Parish Charch is built. It was almost, but certainly not quite, exhausted by its stone being excavated about 1849 for building so 36 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. 1IL much of the Grand Parade sea wall as extends from about the Queens Hotel to the Sussex Club. And I believe that some stone from it was used in the building of St. John's Church. In 1873, the War Office decided to disestablish and disendow the Wish Tower, discharging its caretaker and removing its gun ; but the Local Board stepped in, in 1874, and eventually acquired the Tower from the Government, after taking a lease from the Duke of Devonshire of such of the adjacent land as was not War Department property. As the result of subsequent negociations, the whole is now town property. The last caretaker was an old artilleryman, who after returning from the Crimea belonged to the " Coast Brigade." His name was Smith, and a son, G. W. Smith, born in the Tower, is now a tradesman in East-Bourne. The building all along the sea front from the Grand Parade Westwards, which only began about 1860, or later, might have been started many years previously if the 1st Earl of Burlington had been favourable. I remember being shown once at Compton Place, when j\Ir. F. J. Howard was residing there, a complete and very comprehensive plan for a new town to be called " Burlington," prepared in 1833 by a London architect of some repute, Decimus Burton. But Lord Burlington would have none of it : no bricks and mortar for him to disturb his privacy : so Burton went to Hastings and exploited the new town of " St. Leonards-on-Sea." The Earl even went so far as to pull down a windmill which stood on the Downs behind Paradise for no other reason I suppose than that it was an eye-sore to him and that he did not care to be overlooked in Compton Place by a miller and his men at a distance of more than ^ a mile in a straight line ! It was close to this mill that I first made the acquaintance of a very useful and distinguished public man, the late Sir Howard Vincent, M.P. He was there on horseback as a Brigadier at an Easter Monday review, I being on duty as Lieutenant of the 1st Sussex Engineers. Going back now to the Seaside Road, there were no Plate XIX To face p. 36, Figs. 36-37. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH, EAST-BOURNE. THE GRAND PARADE AND VICTORIA PLACE, EAST-BOURNE. (May, 1855). CHAP. III.] A Tour through Central East-Bourne. 37 buildings between The Terrace and Cornfield Terrace at one end, and a farm, house called The Susans (immediately opposite Susans Road). That house bore a carved inscription, stating that it had been built in 1714. It was rather a striking house externally, built of flint and ;stone, and was very comfortable inside, and was occupied, after 3 generations of Filders had had it, for many years, by Mrs. T. E. J. Boileau, the widow of an Indian Judge, and mother of Mrs. R. J. Graham. Nos. 15-17 Elms Buildings about occupy the site. Immediately next to this house, but lying back from the road, was a comparatively modern house, built by a man named Royer, and sold by him to Mr. John Graham, J.P. The first private theatricals I ever witnessed took place in this house in 1851. The play was Box and Cox. The Grahams were a Cumberland family, but the head of the East-Bourne branch, Mr. John Graham came here about 1830, purchasing Rose Cottage in what is now Grove Road. This house is mentioned elsewhere. He married a daughter of Mr. E. J. Curteis, M.P., of Windmill Hill, and afterwards bought the house which at the time was called The New Susans. He enlarged it considerably and re-named it The Elms, and lived there till his death in 1879. When he bought Rose Cottage, or soon after, he also bought some cottages near by which had been the Parish Workhouse, and some other tenements, and built Elm Cottage, and a house at the corner of South Street, which became known as " The Literary Institution." All these properties passed to his eldest son Reginald, and then to his grandson, T. H. B. Graham, who has sold nearly all. Mr. John Graham left 4 sons, Reginald just mentioned, Henry, Charles a solicitor in London, a partner in the former firm of Domville, Lawrence and Graham, and Edward who died Vicar of Warding ; also a daughter Caroline who became the wife of the Lieut. Jonathan Darby mentioned elsewhere as in 1855 an officer of the Sussex Artillery Militia. On the death of Mr. R. J. Graham his son sold The Elms and other family property. The Elms having been pulled down, on its site a row of shops has been 38 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. IIL built on one side and " Elms Avenue " on the other. His mother resides at Edmond Castle near Carlisle, of which T. H. B. Graham is also now the owner, having succeeded to it through his father who was the nephew of Mr. T. H. Graham. The family may therefore be said almost to have severed their connection with Sussex in order to resume a closer connection with Cumberland, their ancestral County, but a married daughter still resides in East-Bourne. The house at the E. corner of Susans Road occupies the site of a building which I remember bore the inscrip- tion in stone, " East-Bourne Waterworks, 1844." This really was the property of the first Joint-Stock Company ever established in East-Bourne. Some of my people were Shareholders, but I possess no records of it and doubt if any exist, unless the existing Water Company possess any. The modern company took over by purchase the rights of the old company in 1859. Terminus Road was laid out, I think, about 1849 r when the Railway was opened, and the parish books show that it was dedicated as a highway in 1850, but it was a long time before the houses became contiguous for there were many gaps. The corner house on the W. side abutting on the Seaside Road was for many years a Confectioner's shop, the first in East-Bourne to supply dessert ices. The proprietor was Thomas Morris, who gave more attention to cricket than to confectionery, but his wife was a very capable representative of the firm. A journeyman baker once called there to see if he could get a job. He was hailed by Mrs. Morris, to whom he- said : "I want to see the master." Mrs. Morris replied in tones of stentorian indignation " I'm master here." The house at the opposite corner, now divided, once changed hands for GOO, but the next time, some 30' years later, it fetched 3600. The whole of the land Eastwards of the Seaside Road and The Terrace was up to 1849 an unbroken stretch of agricultural land (chiefly grass). There were only 2 old houses, The Grotto, now the site of Barclay's Bank, and Oak Cottage, standing about where No. 53 Terminus Plate XX. To face p. 38. Figs. 38-39. THE WISH TOWER, 1840 North, phixt. [Original Lithograph, circa. 1819.] CHAP. III.] A Tour through Central East-Bourne. 39 Road (The Capital and Counties Bank), stands. Oak Cottage received its name because it was occupied, and I think owned, by a man named Pendrell, and afterwards by a Miss Pendrell, descendants of the famous Boscobel Farmer who sheltered Charles II. after the battle of Worcester. The Pendrells shared in the State pension given to the Boscobel man and his heirs, during the years I knew them. At Miss Pendrell's death, in 1877, her share passed I know not whither. I remember seeing corn grow on the site of the Gildredge Hotel the year that the Railway was opened (1849). Probably that was almost or quite the last crop, because the Terminus Road was laid out not long afterwards. Hyde Gardens under a different spelling perpetuates the fact that a large field on which the Hyde Gardens houses are now built was known up till the time they were built as the " Half Hide," a name of Saxon origin and probably uninterruptedly in use since Saxon times. In Junction Road at the back of The Grotto the first Roman Catholic Chapel in East-Bourne was erected ; Barclay's Bank covers the site. The Priest in charge was the Rev. C. P. King, a very quiet inoffensive old gentleman with whom I was on friendly terms, and who had none of the aggressiveness of the modern Roman Catholic Priests, such as the present East-Bourne representative of that Faith " Father " Lynch, whom also I reckon a friend when we meet, but an enemy when we face one another in the columns of a newspaper. At a Vestry held on June 23, 1854, it was resolved that the proposed new road be called Cornfield Road would be " of public utility." Capt. M. E. Archdall, M.P. for Fermanagh 1835-1874, resided for many years at Odessa Lodge in Cornfield Road, but nobody knew much about him, and he took no part whatever in East-Bourne local affairs. This chapter shall be brought to an end with one or two disjointed paragraphs. At the mouth, so to speak, of Cornfield Terrace there was erected on July 24, 1854, a triumphal Arch in connection with the festivities to commemorate the coming of age on July 23 (which 40 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. III. was a Sunday) of Lord Burlington's eldest son, Lord Cavendish, better known in later years as the Marquis of Hartington, and who finally became 8th Duke of Devonshire. I helped to honour the event by hoisting a Union Jack on the roof of The Gore. The flag actually used, bought for the Duke of Wellington's funeral two years previously, is still in nay possession and usable. Three houses in Hartington Place have a little history attached to them. Fern Bank was built by Mr. Andrew Cuthell, a member of the great London Building Firm of Cubitt, a fact which explains why Lord Ashcombe came down many years afterwards to the funeral of Mrs. Cuthell, who died at Fern Bank. The next house nearer the Sea (to which flats have now been joined) had as its first owner, Mr. John Carrington Palmer, a cousin of the 1st Earl of Selborne, the Lord Chancellor. The house was named Mixbury House from the name of the parish in Oxfordshire of which the Chancellor's father had been Rector. Mr. Palmer died on May 27, 1874. Opposite Mixbury House is a house now occupied by the Young Women's Christian Association. Though now called Westdown, under its original name of Brunswick House it was occupied by an Admiral Morier. His funeral, on August 4, 1864, was the last occasion on which I remember seeing the funeral procession headed by a man carrying on his shoulders a large black board with black plumes fastened in an upright position on it. The Admiral's widow was a sister of the Mrs. Mortimer who was the Authoress of those children's books of world-wide renown The Peep of Day, Line upon Line, Lnics left out, and others, all which I am glad to say are still on sale by the Religious Tract Society in their original form ; but corrupted versions of pome of them have been issued by a " High Church " publisher since the expiration of the Copyrights. I suppose that no " Pi " Books (to use school-boy language) have ever had such an enormous sale. This is a convenient place to mention that the Seaside Road from near Hartington Place to about CHAP. III.] A Tour through Central East-Bourne. 41 Cavendish. Place was raised many years ago by from 2 ft. to 3 ft. in order to improve the gradients of the old road as it used to be. " g'll nott gOH in mg feo0R 0f numurrg." (Henry VI., pt. i.) [42] CHAPTER IV. A TOPOGRAPHICAL TOUR ROUND THE TOWN, WITH ANECDOTES. THE SEA HOUSES. Marine Parade. Round House. Field House. Houses built during the Crimean War. Gowland's Library. Its antiquity and early tenants. Captain L. K. Willard. The Albion Hotel before it became an hotel. The Earl of Ashburnham. Anecdotes of. Sea Beach House. The Yacht "Cygnet." Abolished Coastguard Station. War Department Property. The Two Miss Gordons. The Great Redoubt. Royal Parade Sea Wall. Grievances of the Fishermen. Proposed Harbour. Martello Towers. Collier Ships. Losings, standing bLeaK upon tyt gtz-zfyon." (Pericles). 11 $rarst fyt sea, but \tt$ on laub." (G. HERBERT.) THE part of the Parish which I have now to deal with was the original Watering-Place of East-Bourne and bore the collective name of " Sea-Houses," but the sub-name of Marine Parade came later to be applied to more than half its houses. At what I call the epoch of this Book (1851), the inhabited houses of the district comprised only the Field House, which was really No. 1 Marine Parade though not so numbered, the 24 houses of Marine Parade, a few villas in the Seaside Koad close to where Cavendish Place now opens on to it, some shops at the bend in the road opposite the Anchor Hotel, the Anchor, the Albion, the Ball-room House, Sea Beach House, and a sprinkling of small shops and cottages in the direction of what is now Leaf Hall. Beyond Leaf Hall there was the Ordnance Yard, the Government House, the King's Arms Public-House, with a few cottages dotted about the " Drove" and elsewhere. Close to the Drove was the stream which came from the Old Town, and has already been mentioned. The King's Arms was practically the last house in East-Bourne in Plate XXI. To face p. 43. G. &> R. /.avis, East-Bourne, A HIGH TIDE AT " SPLASH POINT. Copyright. G. & K. La-'is, East-liwtrnt-. Copyright. A HIGH TIDE OPPOSITE "THE ALBION. CHAP. IV.] A Tour round the Sea Houses. 43 the direction of Pevensey, except a house frequented by tramps nearly opposite Anthony's Hill. But this was locally in the Parish of Willingdon. Some of the above houses may now be mentioned in detail. But first I will speak of a house which I never saw and which ceased to exist in 1841 the Round House.. It was demolished in that year because it had been undermined by the sea. It was at that time used as a private residence, but at some time in the 18th Century had been built and used as a flour mill. In 1780, Prince Edward, afterwards Duke of Kent, stayed in it. His brother, Prince Octavius, and two sisters, the Princesses Elizabeth and Sophia stayed in a house on the Marine Parade, which was pulled down and the Albion built on its site. All this is hearsay evidence of course so far as I am concerned, but it seemed necessary to mention it in order to round off, so to speak, my account of the Sea- Houses as I knew them. The Annual Register for 1780 (p. 227) under the date of September 17, gives an account of a terrific thunderstorm which killed 2 servants in the Field House, which when I first knew it belonged to a family named Drury. The last time I was ever in it was on April 20, 1865, on the occasion of the Wedding of a Mr. James B. Baker to Miss Sophia C. Drury. The oldest villa in Seaside Road was one built in the fashion of a Swiss cottage and occupied by a Major Stannus, When the modern houses began to spring up the dates of some of the blocks were in effect indicated by some of the names ; e.g., Alma Place and Inkerman Place, referring to the Battles in the Crimea. These houses with fronts brought out over their former forecourts are those now numbered 35 to 41, as nearly as I can identify them. The subsidiary names were abolished when the great increase in the number of the houses made it necessary to re-number the whole road. Of the shops standing in 1851 I fancy that the only one which remains is No. 51, and that not in its former con- dition. No. 51 was then as now a Baker's Shop, kept by a man named Bridger, afterwards Gilbert ; whilst the- next house was that of a Draper and Grocer named 44 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAp. IV. Row, afterwards Gosling. No. 51 exhibits inside the announcement " Established in 1795 " which is very likely true. Proceeding now out on to the Sea-front, we find that the Queen s Hotel has taken the place of the Field House ; that the houses next are new, but that from No. 6 as far as the road by Gowland's Library the houses are nearly as they were. A house which used to be No. 15 was pulled down to open up the roadway into Queen's Gardens. One of the old houses numbered 9 used to be called The Wedge, from its ground plan. It was actually such, having only a front door and front windows. It was used by the Grahams as a sort of Tea-house, and has since been annexed to No. 8. The houses numbered 6 to 14 have their original fronts. " Splash Point " alias " Junction Parade," as it was called, underneath the Field House, was the scene of an alarming incident on September 7, 1866. A high tide was expected, and I went to see it with a party of cousins then staying in the town, and a clerical friend. We watched the waves for a while, standing on the Grand Parade, but wanting to get round to the Marine Parade, we waited for a good opportunity for doing so. Think- ing that a favourable moment had come we made a rush, Mrs. L. K., her little boy, Mrs. F. C., the Rev. P. S., and myself, but we were too soon (or too late) to dodge a big wave which came, and not only threw down the whole party except myself, but washed Mrs. L. K. and her boy to the edge of the wall. Providentially a man saw their danger at the same moment as I did, he ran, and I ran, and between us we seized my cousin and the child and secured them. It was a very narrow squeak, because had they gone over nothing could have saved them ; rescue by a boat would have been impossible with the waves so high, besides which probably no boats were Avithin reach. The whole thing was over in a few seconds and we got round on to the terra firma of the Marine Parade. I suppose it must be confessed that the attempt was a foolhardy one from the first. The railings shown in the picture were not then in existence but were added because the corner was felt to be always a dangerous one. Plate XXII. To face p. 45. Figs. 4243. G. & K . Lavis, East-Bourne. Copyright. THE "FIELD HOUSE" AND MARINE PARADE. G. &> R. /.avis, East-Hourni. Copyright. THE OLD FISHING STATION AND GROYNES. (Now the Royal Parade). CHAP. IV.] A Tour round the Sea Houses. 45- Gowland's Library may confidently be spoken of as one of the oldest shops in the place, carried on through its whole existence for the purposes of the same trade, books and the things which usually go with books. The business was apparently not in existence in 1787, but it is described in a token issued in 1796 as "Fisher's Library," and a Guide-book dated 1819 speaks of it as "a good library kept by Heatherly with an excellent lodging-house over it having the accommodation of the daily papers and periodical publications. The Library itself is a very spacious apartment, and for a small sum the subscriber has the benefit and amusement of reading as well as the room to lounge in if thought proper. This is a great accommodation to those who prefer lodging at a distance from the sea, yet wish occasionally to con- template the grandeur of that element. In the adjoining room is an excellent billiard table kept quite select for the use of gentlemen only." The billiard table has long been discontinued, and the space thrown into the shop. John Heatherly died at a date which I cannot specify. Mr. R. J. Graham says that he wore a black suit, with knee breeches, silk stockings, powder in his hair, and a pig-tail. A house in Church Street, Old Town, bearing in recent years the name of Kolassy House, had once been carried on as a branch shop a of the sea side one but used chiefly for the delivery of library books and the sale of fancy articles. 1 often used to pass it and peep into the window with envious eyes. Up to nearly the middle of the 19th Century the Marine Parade library was carried on by 3 Miss Lays, nieces of either Mr. or Mrs. Heatherly, whom they succeeded. They had a brother, a retired hatter, who came to live with them at about the time that they gave up the business of shop-keeping. I remember him only too well by the annoyance he caused me whenever I attended service at the Parish Church and he was there. He sat in the pew immediately behind that allotted to my family, and he always persisted in repeating out loud the " Dearly Beloved " Exhortation (a) This is my interpretation of history, but Mr. J. C. Wright's puts it the other way about. 46 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IV. as it it were a part of the " General Confession " which it is the duty of the congregation to repeat after the Clergyman. The Miss Lays were succeeded by 3 Miss Hopkinses ; then came a cousin of theirs, Mr. Hopkins, in 1857, and finally Mr. T. S. Gowland in 1862. To go back to the Marine Parade next to the library were the Baths known as " Mrs. Webb's Baths," but in my time I think Mrs. Webb must have disappeared from the scene, only her name perhaps remaining as a "trade- mark," because I only remember a certain Mrs. Ingledew and her daughter there. Starting again to go along the Marine Parade, the house on the wall of which the word " Library " appears in large characters was No. 22, then came 23 and 24. These were twin houses, 23 being in the occupation of Captain L. K. Willard, whilst 24 was owned but only at a later date inhabited by Dr. D. J. Hall. As they were held on a 60 years lease, and the lease expired in the year 1863, it may be presumed that they were built about 1803. Captain Willard went about on crutches and had lost an arm at the Battle of Laswaree in India in 1803 (or at Salamanca in 1812 ; I cannot remember which). He drove about in an open carriage drawn by a pair of mules. These 3 houses were pulled down not long ago and rebuilt to make an addition to the Albion Hotel, having previously been used as annexes to that hotel after the expiration of the 60 years lease just mentioned. The Albion Hotel had a very chequered history for many of its earlier years. It was built as a Boarding-House and failed as such. Then it was empty for a long time, and about 1852 was bought by the Earl of Ashburnham as a seaside residence for his children. I well remember and used to play on the beach with 2 of them, Lord St. Asaph (the present Earl) and his sister Lady Katherine Ashburnham. Lord St. Asaph after- wards became a Roman Catholic. The Ashburnham ownership did not last long. The old Earl used to complain that people passing by looked in at the windows, but I never heard that they did anything more than what the traditional cat did to the King. Mr. CHAP. IV.] A Tour round the Sea Houses. 47 R. J. Graham relates the following story which I quote because though I cannot authenticate it, it fits in with my recollection of the noble owner. " The inscription * Albion Hotel ' on its front was only partially obscured by a coat of whitewash. One day a traveller drove up to the door and entering the lobby called out ' Waiter.' Meeting with no response he walked up and down the passage repeating his cry. Presently the Earl in much indignation issued from one of the apartments and inquired what this noise was about. ' Bring me a glass of sherry ' was the reply. The Earl took the intrusion in bad part, quite unmindful of the inscription that remained legible on his front wall, and he soon after- wards gave up the house." Many years after this the house became the property of an Hotel Company, and under the management of Mr. James Rudd, an Alderman of the Town Council, soon acquired a high reputation. Of course it was a rival to the old established Anchor next door, but that old house of entertainment had a good character and connection of its own. Lord Ashburnham possessed at Ashburnham Park an ex- ceedingly valuable collection of books, the sale of which caused a great sensation in library circles a few years ago. There were also many curios which I made a vain attempt to see in connection with the writing of my book on Sussex mentioned elsewhere when speaking of Parham. Afterwards I heard that some old friends of ours who were staying at East- Bourne, and who were also friends of the Ashburnham family, were going to stay at Ashburnham, and I sought and obtained their kind intervention for the privilege of a brief visit for the sake of my book, but it was all in vain. The old Earl was inexorable and I did not enjoy the chance of a visit until an Archaeological Meeting there on August 11, 1881, to which I travelled by road, driving from Ration with Mrs. Heinemann, and so seeing an out-of-the-way part of Sussex which I had never seen before nor since. Lord Ashburnham was walking with his Clergyman once, and they met a labourer, and the Earl asked the parson whether men 48 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IV. of the labouring class were likely to be admitted into heaven ! Sea Beach House is still standing near the W. end of the Royal Parade but behind it. When I first knew it, it was occupied by Mrs. Ogle, the widow of a Commander Ogle, R.N. On a grass plat between the house and the beach there stood the hull of a small cutter yacht, the Cygnet. I do not know the history of this craft, but I have heard it said that it was built for smuggling and was captured by the Revenue Authorities. Mr. Ogle had the misfortune to lose a leg at East-Bourne whilst out shooting, and during his enforced repose he received much kindness from a lady staying in the house, and it ended in his marrying her. Her Mother, Mrs. Bracebridge (nee Streatfeild,), was a member of the Kent family of that name, and when I took up my permanent residence at East-Bourne in 1874 the property had passed to Mr. J Streatfeild, whose son Mr. F. H. V. Streatfeild now holds it. The Cygnet had become so dilapidated that it had to be cleared away, and the face of the land all round was completely transformed by the building of the Sea-wall, under the powers of a Local Act, passed in 1879, of which further mention will be made in a later chapter. Hard by was the Coastguard Station with a house for the District Officer in charge ; one that I remember was Lieut. Kitching. The men were chiefly provided for in a comparatively modern row of Coastguard Cottages (so named) on the opposite side of the main Seaside Road, somewhere about where now stand the houses numbered 150-160 Seaside. Lieut. Kitching's house was wrecked by a high tide in 1857, and was never inhabited afterwards. In the main road nearly opposite the Anchor was the chief fishmonger's shop of the place, kept by a man named Heathfield. No. 6 Seaside, occupies the site. Then came the Anchor (now the Burlington) stables, and beyond that, Eastwards, was the Ball-room House. That was its actual name in 1851, when it was owned by a Mr. Edward Boys. I have an idea that it had been built CHAP. IV.] A Tour round the Sea Houses. 49 early in the 19th Century for the specific purpose which its name suggests, and that it is the building which is sometimes mentioned in old books under the name of the " Assembly Rooms," but of this I am not at all certain. This house, now called Livingstone House and numbered as ' 14 Seaside,' still remains, externally unaltered. The Government property at the Seaside comprised the Government House or Officers' Quarters, a brick-built office near it, and a smaller house inside what was known as the " Ordnance Yard." During, or perhaps after, the Crimean War, a Military Hospital was built in the yard away from the high road. Then, immediately to the E. of this, there was a large open space used as a drill ground and for gun drill. Though there were no buildings between this ground and the seashore, and therefore there might have been gun practice from the guns in the ground at a floating target. I cannot remember whether there ever was any such gun practice with shot. There was with blank charges, because being down there one day in 1855, I was allowed by the Militia officer in command, to pull the lanyard for firing a charge. The Officers' Quarters were once occupied, long before my time however, by a Colonel Gordon and his family, all of whom were known to my people. Two of the daughters were twins, and not only when they were born, but until they became grown-up girls, it was necessary that one should have a red and the other a blue ribbon round her arm, because they were so exactly alike as only to be distinguishable by their ribbons. I am sorry not to possess what I once remember seeing, a privately-printed account of this remarkable family. The two daughters grew up and one of them, married, came to East-Bourne in 1867, on a visit, when I made her acquaintance. The King's Arms Inn (and the block of houses of which it formed one) has disappeared, and the substituted block of houses bears the absurd name of " Jubilee Terrace." The Great Redoubt was one of the fortifications put up by Pitt in 1806, in anticipation of a French Invasion. E 50 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IV. It was, I believe, wholly disused, and only occupied by a few superannuated artillerymen as caretakers until 1853. In the years immediately following 1853, a considerable force of artillery was lodged there. Some details as to this I give in another chapter. (See Chapter VI., post). An immense amount of money has from first to last been spent in protecting the sea-front of the Redoubt from the destructive incursions of the sea. I have no doubt that onwards from 1853, up to and including the time when the Corporation acquired the right to continue their Sea-wall to the E. end of the glacis, many thousands of pounds were spent in stone, concrete and cement for repairs. When the Royal Parade Sea-wall was built in 1880, the fishermen and their boats had to be moved from their old position near the discarded Coastguard Station to the open shore, where once had stood the Martello Tower No. 72, which had been washed away before my time. This compulsory removal of the fishing boats after the construction of the Sea-wall was naturally much resented by the fishermen, but it was unavoidable. At a later date, that is to say in 1892, there was some talk of the desirability of constructing a commercial harbour somewhere between the Redoubt and Langney Fort. A Committee of the Town Council, of which I was Chairman, was appointed to consider the question. The project was warmly supported by Mr. Hammond, the Manager of the Gasworks, who gave valuable evidence as to the reduction in the cost of all the coal brought into East-Bourne if it could be landed from ships instead of coming by rail. Mr. G. A. Wallis supported the idea conditionally on its being limited to a harbour for yachts, believing that it would add much to the popularity of East-Bourne, if it were to be developed as a yachting centre. Mr. Whitley, the Agent of the Gilbert Estate was also favourable. I must confess that I was very favourable, both to the large and to the limited schemes, but I resigned my seat on the Corporation at the end of my current term of office in November 1893, and nobody else took the matter up. CHAP. IV.] A Tour round the Sea Houses. 51 The mention of coals reminds me that I have for- gotten one of excitements of East-Bourne life prior to, and for some years after the opening of the Railway the arrival of a sailing collier. Such ships used to come at intervals and be beached at high water near the Coast- guard Station : then when the tide receded, dozens of carts would be taken down to the shore and come away laden with coal landed from the ship. It was often impossible to empty a ship during one low-water interval, in which case the work had to be finished the next day, which increased the risk to the ship. I do not exactly remember when such vessels ceased to come, but the improved Railway communication with the North of England killed the trade. The Martello Towers which stretch all along the coast from East-Bourne to Kent (including one at Seaford), take their name from a tower of the sort at Martella Bay in Corsica, which offered an obstinate resistance on February 8, 1794, to a British force which attacked it. The details of the engagement will be found in James's Naval History. 44 3fyt long trag's task is obtt, airtr foe must zlttg." (Antony and Cleopatra}. CHAPTER V. ROYAL AND DISTINGUISHED VISITORS. Children of George III. Foreign Princes and Princesses. Visits by the Duke of Cambridge. Grand Duke and Duchess of Hesse. Grand Duke and Duchess of Baden. Princess Christian and the "Alice Hospital" Opening of the Hospital by the Prince and Princess of Wales. Street Decorations Tea Party at Compton Place. Satirical publications respect- ing the visit. Visit of the Marchioness of Lome. Suppressed anecdote. Visit of the Duchess of Albany. Visit of the Prince and Princess of Wales. Distinguished Russian. Chinese, ond French Visitors, and others. Astronomical, Political, and Ecclesiastical Visitors, with notes and anecdotes, respecting some of them. all ; trust a fefo ; fca forrmg to mm*." (All's Well that end* Well}. THAT certain members of the family of George III. came to East-Bourne as visitors in 1780 is well- known, and their visit may be said to mark the starting of the town as a bathing and pleasure centre, but that incident is not properly within the scope of this volume. The Royal personages in question were the Princes Edward (afterwards Duke of Kent) and Octavius, and the Princesses Elizabeth and Sophia. The following is an unpublished extract from the diary of a lady who was at East-Bourne in 1780 as a member of the Royal suite. It was communicated to me in 1878 when in the possession of one of her descendants, then living at Oxford : " SEA-HOUSES, EASTBOURNE, SUSSEX, " 7th July, 1780. " Our day is generally spent as follows : Rise early,; I sleep in the room with the Princess Elizabeth. After her R.H. and Princess Sophia and Prince Alfred [? Adol- phus] have bathed, which depends on the tides, we walk on the sands for an hour. Then breakfast. At 9 the coach is at the door. We go to Lady Charlotte Finch's house, who goes with us to Eastbourne Place, belonging CHAP. V.] Royal Visitors. 53 to Lady Betty Compton. . . . We stay an hour at East- bourne Place, and Lady C. F. accompanies ps. Elizabeth to the Sea House, who then reads the Psalms and chap- ters of the day, and attends to various lessons from Lady O. and myself in ye absence of her teachers. At 1 o'clock Ly. Charlotte leaves us ; returns at 3, when Prince Edward, his governor, Mr. Buggmers [Bruyeres], and sub-governors, Mr. Farhill and the Rev. Mr. Fisher, come to dinner. His R.H. and the gentlemen go away at 5." Note that the dinner hour was 3.0. I may add that that hour and 4.0 were ordinary hours for dinner in the early part of the 19th century ! Judging by old Guide-books of which I possess copies, this Royal Visit did something to advertise the town, and a few years after the Royal Visit of 1780, another of the children of George III., the Princess Amelia, was taken to East-Bourne. Some very brief particulars are to be found in Mrs. Papendiek's Court and Private Life in the time of Queen Charlotte (London, 1887). No dates are given, but there seem to have been two visits two years running, possibly in 1789 and 1790. A rowing match presumably took place during the latter visit, for under the date of January 1, 1791, Mrs. Papendiek records an extemporised picture of such a match being placed on the table at a Royal juvenile party given at Windsor by the Lady Charlotte Finch. My first date for Royal Visitors must be 1852 when the Prince and Princess of Capua stayed at the seaside. He was a son of Ferdinand II., King of Naples, otherwise known as " Bomba." I remember sitting near them at a travelling circus set up close to South Street, not far from the New Inn. About this time, or earlier, Lucien Bonaparte, Prince of Canino, visited East-Bourne. His visit was really rather to Sussex, because, as is well known, he was an eminent philologist and he spent a good deal of time and labour in studying dialects and languages, and amongst others the dialects of England, including that of Sussex. The results of his labours were subsequently published. 54 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. V. In 1860, and again in 1874, East-Bourne was visited by the Duke of Cambridge in order to witness certain gunnery experiments, but these are matters which belong to Chapter VI. (post). On March 25, 1875, H.R.H. the Princess Louise and the Marquis of Lome came to East-Bourne for a week and attended service at Trinity Church on the interven- ing Sunday. I think this was the first visit of any of Queen Victoria's children. In the early part of the summer of 1878 East-Bourne was visited by some of the children of the Emperor Frederick of Germany, the sisters and brothers of the present Emperor. I sent for their use a copy of my Guide-book, and their Governess, Mdlle. De Perpigna, came and had tea with us on June 29, and proved to be a very interesting person who told us many things. In the autumn of 1878 the Grand Duke and Duchess of Hesse with their children made a long stay at a house on the Grand Parade. The Grand Duchess, it will be remembered, was our Princess Alice. They went about freely in the town and attended various festivities. On August 21 Her Royal Highness went to the Devonshire Park for the opening of a Bazaar for the Building Fund of All Saints' Church. My wife and I were introduced to her by Lady Fanny Howard. The thing which specially struck me in conversation with her was how completely she had lost her English pronunciation of English. This visit was a great "lift" for the Bazaar, which yielded 720. She also gave away the prizes at the College, and inspected the Christ Church Schools. Their sojourn in East-Bourne was productive of such good results from a health point of view that in the fol- lowing year (1879) the children came again for several weeks. The Grand Duke and Duchess of Baden also came with their children. The Grand Duchess was the daughter of the Emperor "William I. of Germany. We also made their acquaintance, at a Bazaar held at the Devonshire Park on August 20 for the Christ Church Building Fund, when my wife and I and three of our children were introduced to them. They stayed several CHAP. V.] Royal Visitors. 55 weeks at the Cavendish Hotel. The Grand Duchess asked us to go to the Hotel the day before they left East-Bourne and take leave of her. When we were ushered into the Drawing-room we found her on her knees packing into a box her various East-Bourne purchases, and, by way of explanation of her employment, she told us that the Emperor, her father, had brought up all his children, including herself, to know as much as possible about everything, and to be able to do as many things as possible for themselves without always invoking the help of equerries, ladies-in-waiting and servants. This explan- ation of the educational principles in vogue half a century ago in the Hohenzollern family throws some light on the personal actions of the old Emperor's grandson, William II. Our visit terminated with the expression of a hope on Her Royal Highness's part that if ever we found our- selves anywhere near Baden we should not fail to go and see her. The Grand Duchess may be described as an exceedingly pleasant and unsophisticated person. The next Royal Visitor was H.R.H. the Princess Christian, who came down on July 5, 1882, to lay the foundation stone of the Hospital, which was named after her sister the Princess Alice, Grand Duchess of Hesse, who had died not long before, under circumstances which many will remember, of diptheria caught whilst nursing a sick child. Her Royal Highness was enter- tained at Compton Place by Mr. and Lady Fanny Howard for the occasion. A gentleman then living at East-Bourne, Mr. F. W. Bourdillon, had been tutor to the Princess's Children and she called at his house, No. 7 South Cliff, and planted a commemorative tree which, sad to say, lived but a short time owing to the exposed situation and the lack of adequate protection. This was the first Royal visit which was made the subject of a town demonstration and street decorations. Various public bodies were concerned in the matter, such as Yeomanry, Coastguards, Volunteers and such like. The expenses of the display amounted to 167, raised by subscriptions (a) The Illustrated London News of July 15, contained a set of miserable sketches of the day's proceedings, too bad to be reproduced here. 56 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. V. A three-days Bazaar at the Devonshire Park followed the stone-laying on July 26, 27, and 28, at which most of nay family assisted. When the hospital was finished and its opening on June 30, 1883, had to be considered, it was decided that a very much more ambitious programme should be carried out. For this purpose 4 distinct bodies were called upon to co-operate. There was the Local Board as the Public Authority, the Hospital Committee, a Committee of Townspeople, and the East-Bourne Water Company. The Water Company were concerned because the inauguration of 2 large new pumping engines at the Bedford Well Works was to be one of the items in the day's proceedings. The official programme was a very complicated one and the settlement of the time-table was somewhat a speculative business, including as it did, besides the matters already mentioned, a visit to the All Saints' Hospital at Meads, and a tea-party at Compton Place. However, the programme having been carefully thought out by the Reception Committee of which I was Chairman, it was found possible to carry it through without any material difficulty. The principal spectacle from the sight-seeing point of view was the procession of 26 carriages round the town, escorted by a detachment of Mounted Police, and the 4th Dragoon Guards brought over from Brighton for the purpose. The public luncheon to celebrate the occasion took place at the Devonshire Park at 2.30 p.m. It must have been a very fatiguing day for the Royal Visitors, and their only respite was during the hour dedicated to afternoon, tea at Compton Place. Only a few invitations were issued for that. To these was prefixed the customary formula " To meet their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales." The party assembled for tea were photographed, and in the photograph (Plate XXIII.), I recognise the following faces : The Prince and Princess of Wales, Princess Ella of Hesse in the centre, Lady Fanny Howard in a bath-chair, and then, reckoning from left to right, Mrs. F. W. H. Cavendish, Mr. F. W. H. Plate XXIV. To face p. 57. Figs. 45-46. G. & R. Lavis, East-Konnie. Copyright. VISIT OF THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES, 1883. 1. Arch erected by Firemen. 2. Arch erected by Fishermen. CHAP. V.] Royal Visitors. 57 Cavendish, Mr. R. Cavendish, Mrs. Cavendish, Mrs. G. F. Chambers, Dr. Greame, Lady Gooch, Miss Brodie, Rev. H. R. Whelpton, Miss Pitman, Miss Emily Pitman, Lady Louisa Egerton and 2 ladies whom I cannot identify or remember. There were some half-a-dozen others present who are not included in the photograph, amongst them Lord Hartington and myself. I was engaged in talking over with him a difficulty which it was not easy to deal with, owing to shortness of the time available. The Prince and Princess were to be driven back to the station to catch the 5.30 train by the shortest route, which would have been by Grove Road, but this would have deprived the Old Town people of a sight of our future King and Queen, and would have wasted the triumphal arch erected in High Street. The matter was settled by the tea part of the business being curtailed by 10 minutes. It was supposed at the time that the gentleman who was looking forward to become the first Maypr of East-Bourne desired to utilise this first Royal Visit for election purposes, and a local satirist published a rather amusing pictorial skit entitled " What will they do with him ? " and the sequel was published under the title of " What they did with him." The former is too long to quote here, and without the pictures, the points of it would be lost. The latter document was not illustrated. I never heard who wrote these squibs, but I believe the authorship was ascribed to a certain Solicitor's Clerk. On July 19, 1889, the Duchess of Albany came to East-Bourne to lay the foundation stone of the All Saints' Children's Hospital at Meads. It was (locally) a children's affair, the presentations being of flowers cast at her feet, and not the customary purses. On Saturday, June 20, 1891, the Prince and Princess of Wales and 2 daughters came to open the Children's Hospital just mentioned. They stayed at Compton Place till the following Monday. The visit was more or less a private one, and had no public features except the presentation at the Railway Station of an address from the Town Council. The Princesses attended service on 58 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. V, the Sunday morning at the Parish Church, and great preparations were made by the Vicar to receive them preparations which many people thought unduly com- plete ; e.g., ropes to mark off a passage to the Compton Place pews : extra police : post cards confidentially (!) warning the seat-holders to arrive early and so " avoid a crowd " as " distinguished personages " were expected ! In the early part of the summer of 1892, H.R.H. Princess Louisa (then Marchioness of Lome) came to East-Bourne in the strictest incognita, and stayed in lodgings on the sea-front accompanied by her Lady-in- Waiting, Lady Susan Leslie-Melville. I could relate a " tall " story of an incident which preceded this visit, but it would hardly do to let it appear in print, though I have several times reeled it off to friends. Since the last named date, our late King, both before and after he became King, paid several visits to East-Bourne staying always at Compton Place; and there have been other Royal Visitors, English and foreign, but where their visits were private and informal they call for no notice here. I will complete this chapter by a brief mention of some foreign visitors of high but not Royal rank, who proved very interesting, and of some other visitors, various. In June 1893, Prince Jules Ouroussoff, " Maitre des Ceremonies " (whatever that might be) to the Emperor of Russia, spent some weeks at East-Bourne accompanied by a very attractive daughter. We made their acquain- tance first at the house of Sir E. Ashmead Bartlett, M.P. They came on several occasions to our house for tea and lawn tennis, and seemed to enjoy themselves very much. Both father and daughter spoke perfect English (as so many Russians do) and the Prince proved himself to be a very accomplished tennis player. Even more interesting and amusing were the Chinese Ambassador, the Ambassadress, and their 3 children who also honoured us with their company, and seemed much to enjoy themselves, the parents engaging in general conversation, and the children in riding my children's donkey. The Ambassador it will be remembered CHAP. V.] Foreign Visitors. 59 was known as the Marquis Tseng ; his wife posed as the "Marchioness Tseng," and on her visiting cards there appeared the names of the daughters as "Lady Fore- seawoods Tseng " and " Lady Blossom Tseng " using for the Chinese young ladies the courtesy title borne in England by the daughters of a Marquis. I forget the name of the son, a boy of about 12, but the donkey riding was a great attraction, and they came several times on account of Neddy, quite as much as for the tea and bread and butter, etc. All this happened in the summer of 1885. On their final visit, I asked the Marquis to write his name in my autograph book, and he produced a common steel pen for the purpose, whereupon I said " Oh, please ; not an English pen ; I should like your signature in Chinese character." He readily complied with my request. He spoke excellent English, but the Marchioness spoke with difficulty. The children were better able to express themselves. Of one of our sleeping visitors a quaint tale may be told. She was one of 6 sisters, the daughter of a Peer. She had been, in days before I knew her, a very attractive and pretty girl and no doubt for that reason had had several offers of marriage, but she was only the 4th in age of the 6 sisters, and her father would not consent to her marrying till her elder sisters had married ! They never did go off, so the whole 6 lived and died as spinsters, and were laid side by side in a Gloucester- shire churchyard. Their ages at their deaths were 88, 86, 80, 73, 80 and 89. I knew them all, and a more -charming group of old ladies I never did know. During the summer of 1885, we saw a good deal of a very typical representative of the French Noblesse, the Marquis De Lasteyrie and his wife. They came to take leave of us on Saturday, August 1, saying they were going to cross to France on the following Monday. I told him it was a bank holiday and after explaining to him what that was, and what travelling on that day meant, he said he should take my advice and postpone his departure so as to avoid in some degree the holiday crowds. 60 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. V. We had at one time or another some other foreign visitors, including a German cavalry officer, Major Von Heller and his wife, some other Germans, a Polish lady, Countess Posadowsky, and a Danish lady, all of whom added to our stock of knowledge in various degrees. One does not seem often to meet Dutch people in England, but in the summer of 1901, the Baroness De Zuylen der Nyevelt, one of the Ladies-in- Waiting of the Queen of Holland, had a house for some months in Granville Road. Her visits to our house, bringing a delightful little daughter, opened up new topics of conversation for myself and my family. The little girl much amused us by her account of the carriage she had at home in Holland, drawn by 4 goats. On many occasions during my residence at East- Bourne, we were called upon to receive at our house, visitors interesting for reasons astronomical, political or ecclesiastical. The most distinguished astronomical visitor certainly was Professor J. C. Adams of Cambridge, the discoverer of the planet Neptune. It was also astro- nomy which obtained for us, at the request of Sir Norman Lockyer, F.R.S., the pleasure of the acquaintance of Lord and Lady Edward Spencer Churchill, an acquain- tance which I am glad to say abides. Astronomy like poverty may be said to make strange bedfellows. On one very busy afternoon when our house was turned topsy-turvy to prepare for a large Shakespeare Reading, there came a ring at the front-door followed by a message brought to me by the parlourmaid " Please sir, a gentleman wishes to see you." I said, " Who is he ? and what does he want?" My servant said "He wont give his name or say why he wants to see you." I replied " Tell him, therefore, I wont see him." He went away in a dudgeon. The next morning brought me a most abusive letter to the effect that the writer was a Fellow of the Royal Astronomical Society, knew me and my books, was anxious to make my acquaintance and see my observatory, and was surprised at my rudeness in refusing to let him in. I replied, " Why did you not tell my parlourmaid all this and you would have been CHAP. V.] Political Visitors. 61 admitted, in spite of the inconvenience of my being in the- middle of great preparations for an entertainment which, preparations were abundantly visible from the front- door." I then invited him to call upon me and see what he wished to see, and he proved by no means a disagreeable visitor. Oar political visitors for the day or the night, as the case might be, included amongst others Mr. J. G. Talbot,. M.P., Mr. T. Salt, M.P., Sir J. T. Hibbert, M.P., and Lady Hibbert, the Earl and Countess of Meath, Lord and Lady Colchester, Lord and Lady Stalbridge, Sir Algernon and Lady Borthwick (afterwards Lord and Lady Glenesk), Alderman Sir R. W. Garden, Mary, Dowager Lady Lilford, and Mr. G. Drage, M.P., and his wife. Mr. Talbot was interesting to me for the reason that the first vote I ever recorded at a Parliamentary election was for him and his colleague, Sir C. Mills (afterwards Lord Hillingdon), at the West Kent election in 1868, when both were returned. Mr. Talbot's after career as- a Churchman is too well known to need any remark here. Mr. Salt was M.P. for Stafford and Parliamentary Secretary of the Local Government Board under Lord Beaconsfield ; Sir J. Hibbert had previously occupied the same position in the first Gladstone Government (1868 1874). He was afterwards Parliamentary Secretary of the Treasury in the second Gladstone Government. When Mr. Gladstone took office for the third time in 1886, Hibbert hoped to have had his third official chance, but the Prime Minister said that his faithful follower must be content with a K.C.B., instead of 1500 a year. Lord Meath has rendered, and still is rendering, valuable service to the country as a social reformer, treading in the steps of the great Lord Shaftesbury. Lady Meath stayed twice with us, coming to speak at drawing-room meetings on behalf of the Ministering Children's League, founded by her. It was from her earlier name, when Lady Brabazon, that that valuable scheme of " Brabazon Working-parties " in workhouses received its name. On several occasions the annual treats with which the Brabazon Working-parties are wound up were held in 62 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. V. our garden. July 14, 1898, July 19, 1899, and July 4, 1900, were three such, occasions. It was most interesting, .and in some cases amusing, to see how the old people enjoyed their outings. Some, however, preferred not to have their earnings spent in the ordinary way of eating and drinking. They found their greatest happiness in fly drives round the town ! Lord Colchester, as is mentioned elsewhere, was many years ago a Conservative Candidate for East Sussex, but it was to speak at a Primrose League Fete that he stayed with us in 1887. This Fete, a great success, was carried out partly on our lawn and partly on the Manor House lawn. The tea-tables were erected on our side of the road, whilst the speech-making and the dancing took place on the other side under the kind supervision of Mr. and Mrs. Davies Gilbert. Lord Stalbridge's antecedents and present high position need no amplification, but I am tempted to record one thing he said to me on April 17, 1886, when he and Lady Stalbridge were having tea at our house. As Lord Richard Grosvenor, he had been one of Mr. Gladstone's " whips " in the House of Commons, and received a Peerage by way of reward. He said that one of his reasons for accepting it was that he was glad to be put out of touch with so many old associates in the House of Commons with whom he had acted for so many years, but with whom he could act no longer in consequence of their having gone wrong on the subject of Home Rule. Lord Glenesk was the great journalist who had bought and regenerated the Morning Post. I believe that he had also had a hand in the departed Owl. Probably most people who ever knew it have forgotten the Owl, and the present generation never knew it. It was a satirical sheet of 4 pages, published weekly at the price of sixpence, which revealed many Cabinet and Parliamentary secrets to the great alarm of old-fashioned and proper people. Everybody wondered whence it obtained its political and society gossip. I took it in for a long time from its commencement in 1864, and CHAP. V.] Political Visitors. 63 have never ceased to regret that I did not preserve the numbers on which I expended so many sixpences. In addition to their intrinsic interest I expect they would now have commanded a fancy price, but my set was not quite complete, and that was the reason I did not preserve it Sir R. W. Garden was a Sheriff of London in 1850 ; Lord Mayor in 1857 ; and M.P., first for Gloucester, and afterwards for Barnstaple. During his mayoralty I was often at the Mansion House, and so was able to realise easily the abject slavery in which Lord Mayors of London live during their year of office. The wife of the first Incumbent of St. John's Church, Meads, was a daughter of Sir R. W. Carden, and that was how he came into touch with East-Bourne life during the " Seventies " and " Eighties." He was afterwards one of the Jubilee Baronets of 1887. Lady Lilford was a frequent visitor to East-Bourne during the later years of her life, and we saw a great deal of her and of her children and grandchildren ; she lent us her carriage on very many occasions when we wanted to drive to distant places in or round East- Bourne. When I mention the fact that she was the daughter of the famous Lord Holland of Holland House, not to forget the equally famous Lady Holland, it need not be added that her conversations were always of the deepest interest to my wife and myself, especially as my wife's father was a first cousin of the 4th Earl of Ilchester, whose descendant is the present owner of Holland House. Colonel and Mrs. Arthur Wellesley (now Duke and Duchess of Wellington) may be included amongst the pleasant people whom we knew at East-Bourne ; and Mrs. Leopold Scarlett, who lost a son in the Victoria and whose eldest son is now Lord Abinger. Another Political visitor to East-Bourne, whose public career has been very interesting, is the present Duke of Rutland, who as Marquis of Granby stayed at the Albion in May 1889. He had originally been better known as Mr. Henry Manners ("Lord Salisbury's Manners ") and private secretary to Lord Salisbury. As 64 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. V. such he presided over a great Conservative Meeting at Leicester on June 3, 1885, which resulted in my being invited to stand as M.P. for Leicester, but I eventually declined to do so. On that occasion I made the longest speech I ever did make, and one of which I shall cherish the memory. A verbatim report of it, taken from the Leicester Advertiser, was re-published in the Eastbourne Review. The only Musician of eminence I ever knew at East-Bourne was the Rev. Sir F. A. Gore Ouseley, to whom I was introduced at a St. Saviour's Choir School Luncheon on January 30, 1883. Some 6 years later I came upon him in his own home, St. Michael's College, Tenbury, Worcestershire. Staying in the neighbourhood on one of my Boundary Commission journeys I called upon him, and by way of a treat (to myself) I asked him to play me something on his organ, which he did, to my infinite satisfaction, for a whole hour. When it was over I asked him how many stops the organ had and he said : " Sixty-one ; there is room for one more, and that one I hope to put in some day." I confess that I thought 61 was a sufficient number. He was an enthusiast, and also a most genial and delightful man This combination is not always met with. Our Ecclesiastical visitors were not very numerous. Bishop Durnford of Chichester, Bishop Mackarness of Oxford, Mr. Beresford Hope, M.P., Earl Nelson, the Rev. S. J. Stone and Canon Newbolt, were the chief, and 2 American bishops (over in 1897 for the Lambeth Con- ference), the Bishops of New Hampshire and Colorado. Bishop Durnford was a delightful person to have in one's house ; so cheery and versatile in his tastes and con- versation, but he never converted me to his doctrines as to the merits of toadstools or other strange fungi as articles of food. Earl Nelson's status as a famous Churchman is well known. He came to us in November 1894, to speak at a great Town Hall meeting on behalf of Church Elementary Schools. His anecdotes captivated our children. Here are two. In a certain year (I think 1844) Lord Nelson went into the country to stay with a CHAP. V.] Ecclesiastical Visitors. 65 friend, who accosted him somewhat thus : " There will be in church to-morrow [speaking on a Saturday] an old lady who is very anxious to make your acquaintance. I told her that I would introduce you to her ; and what do you think she said ? ' Oh ! you need not do that ; I shall be able to recognise his lordship easily ; I remember that he has only one arm.' ' To think that anybody could get so mixed in their ideas as to confuse the personality of a man who died in 1805 with a man living in 1844! By the way, it was 'about 1844 that Lord Nelson became one of the Conservative " whips " in the House of Lords. The other story is also amusing in its way. On a certain occasion Lord Nelson found himself the possessor of a spurious sovereign. He put it, as he thought, into an out-of-the-way corner of his waistcoat pocket, where it would not get mixed up with other coins. He afterwards hired a cab, and when the trip was over put his hand into his pocket for the fare, one shilling. Forgetting all about the bad sovereign, he pulled that out of his pocket, and feeling the coin without looking at it, gave it to the cabman as a shilling. Cabby drove off quite satisfied. He had only got a little way when Lord Nelson discovered that he had given the man the bad sovereign, so he shouted after him to stop. Cabby heard the shout, turned round and derisively nourished the coin in the air. History has not recorded the cabman's feelings at a later time in the day. Mr. Beresford Hope came to stay with us for the Diocesan Conference in 1881. It was soon after the death of his wife, Lady Mildred Hope, Lord Salisbury's sister, and he declined to enter into any of the social gatherings in connection with the Conference, or do aught else than attend the meetings and make the speech which he had been invited to make. He brought with him such a smart valet that I mistook the man at my first interview with him for some distinguished member of the Conference who was not personally known to me. Another guest who stayed with us on that occasion was the Hon. and Rev. G. W. Bourke, brother of Lord F 66 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. V. Mayo, the Governor-General of India who was assas- sinated. Mr. Bourke, a man large in mind as well as in body, proved a very pleasant visitor, and our acquaintance with him and his wife (a daughter of Archbishop Longley), was kept up till his death. An amusing story attaches to a visit which my wife and I paid some years later to their Rectory at Pul borough. In order to make it understood I must submit a little preface. In 1877, I was commissioned by Stanford the Publisher to write a Guide-book for Sussex. For the purpose of doing so, it was necessary for me to have another opportunity of seeing Lord Zouche's house at Parham, which I had not visited for some years and which was let to an Australian wool dealer named Newton. Accordingly I wrote to Mr. Newton to ask him kindly to name a day when I might pay his house (not him) a visit. I received in reply a curt and rude refusal. As the opportunity of inspecting Parham was important for the purposes of my book, I renewed my request in obsequious language only to receive in reply a still more offensive refusal. Nothing daunted, I went to the owner Lord Zouche in London to seek his friendly intervention which was promptly and willingly given, but all in vain. Wool would have nothing to do with literature. Now comes in the Bourke part of the tale. Lunching at Pulborough Rectory on October 6, 1883, Mr. Bourke said, " Would you like a drive anywhere ? " My reply was prompt and decisive, " Let us go and see Parham." I told him of my previous failures to get inside there and he said " All right, we will go. They are always very coming to any visitors we take over.'* I may sum up the result in Caesar's words " Veni, Vidi, Vici ! " We were received with the utmost effusiveness, and my wife and I were sent all over the house under the escort of Miss Wool, after which we had tea with Mrs. Wool. Just as we were preparing to depart, Mr. Wool arrived from London. I only hope that he remembered my name and his churlish letters of 1877. Mr. Bourke gave me an interesting reminiscence of the Empress Frederick. He was staying at Homburg, CHAP. V.] Ecclesiastical Visitors. 67 .and the Empress sent for him on September 1, 1894, and in course of conversation quoted the following lines : " Let us speak of a man as we find him " And censure alone what we see ; " Should anyone blaine, lets remind him " That from faults we are none of us free." Her Majesty afterwards sent Mr. Bourke a transcript of the lines in her own handwriting, and he gave me a copy of them. The Rev. S. J. Stone was the author of the well- known hymn " The Church's one Foundation." His father was at one time Vicar of Alfriston. I paid him a return visit at his Vicarage at Haggerston on April 19, 1887, spending the night there to give his parishioners a lecture on Church History. It was my first introduction to an East London audience, and a queer audience it was, but they listened to me. The 2 American Bishops added largely to our knowledge of Church affairs on the other side of the Atlantic, and by a singular coincidence it turned out that the Bishop of Colorado's Chief Accountant for Church Finance was a nephew of my wife's who had emigrated to the States some years previously. I must find a place for a very 'interesting French lady who I knew very well and who lived many years at East-Bourne, Mdlle. Angeline Maugery. I do not know who brought her to East-Bourne, or why she came to this town rather than to any other town, but, born a Roman Catholic, she became for conscience sake a Protestant, and was so persecuted by her family that she resolved to quit France and come to live in England. This was in about the year 1849. My aunts took her up, helped her to find pupils, and when she became too old to teach raised a fund for her support. She died in the "Eighties." I was one of her pupils in 1851, and I well remember the interest she evoked in my mind by her patient coaching of me in that thrilling work Racine's Athalie. The house where this happened was No. 14 High Street now occupied by Mr. S. Hart, and enlarged. 68 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. V. A visitor to East-Bourne in 1897, and indeed in other years, was a lady who, I suppose, was the only one of her rank who ever won, with her husband, the celebrated Dunmow Flitch. It was only after the death of her husband who was a Peer, that we made her acquaintance, but their success, I imagine, stands without precedent in the annals of Dunmow. Some time previously to 1897 I had stayed with her at her own home in Worcestershire where she perpetuates to visitors the recollection of her triumph by an imitation Flitch of Bacon in waxwork, protected by a glass case. I may as well add that this house, because it contains art treasures of immense value, has a night watchman who goes round outside and calls out the hours and the weather. I remember when I was there on January 21 r 1895, I heard the 2 following calls : " Past 12 o'clock Starlight Night," and then "Past one o'clock Snowy Night." They were strange weird sounds in the tones in vogue. vi musng xrmpmffiiss tarcblj fttl xlcmt."Sir W. Scott. Plate XXV. To face p. 69. Figs. 47-49. TOWER No. 71, Battered by Armstrong Guns, August, 1860. G. 4" A*. Lavis, Kast-Boitnte. Copyright. OFFICERS OF 2nd SUSSEX ARTILLERY VOLUNTEERS. INTERIOR OF GREAT REDOUBT CHAPTER VI. MILITARY AND NAVAL EPISODES. " |jt fast tiring faitom ^fnmjtt anir (Snglaair is i|re &%." (DOUGLAS JEKEOLD). The Author's interest in military matters. Volunteers in 1804. Anecdote of the first Duke of Cambridge. Troops quartered at East- Bourne during the Crimean War. Sussex Artillery Militia. Norfolk Artillery Militia. The De La Warr Family. The Modern Volunteer Movement. The East-Bourne Rifles. The Sussex Artillery Volunteers. The Sussex Engineer Volunteers. Camps at Sheffield Park and elsewhere. The Earl of Sheffield. Anecdote of the Duke of Norfolk. Easter Monday Reviews. Detachments of Engineers sent to South Africa. Visits of the second Duke of Cambridge for Artillery Experiments Anthony's Hill. Lord Wolseley.< The Earl of Dundonald. " Old Boney." Jubilee of George III. Wreck of the Mayflower, in 1849. Loss af the Dalhousie. Wreck of the Gannet in 1882. Boulder-boats Naval Reviews at Portsmouth. ONE thing distinguished my boyhood from that of many other boys I had no near relations in the Army, the nearest being a cousin, Sir E. Walter, who was a Captain in the 8th Hussars, and who after- wards founded that very useful body the Corps of Commissionaires. Like most boys, I suppose, soldiers and soldiering had a great attraction for me, both in the matter of military spectacles and books, the events in the lives of Napoleon and Wellington especially having been my constant study down to the present time. As I have never seen in print the following information I think I am justified in giving it here, premising that I owe the materials for doing so to Mr. Morris of Seaside Road. In the year 1804 there existed near East-Bourne two companies of infantry, respectively called the " Hailsham and Hellingly " Company and the " South Pevensey " Company. The former, under Captain W. Long, com- prised 5 sergeants, 6 corporals, 1 drummer, and 52 privates, and there is still in existence a certificate 70 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VI. signed by the inspecting field-officer, Lt.-Col. Booth, that he had inspected them on April 3, 1804. The rates of pay were : sergeants, Is. 6d. ; corporals, Is. 2d. ; drummers and privates, Is. per day. The South Pevensey Company appears to have been under the same Captain Long. The parade state on Inspection Day, Feb. 23, 1804, was 1 captain, 2 lieutenants, 1 ensign (sick), 5 sergeants, 6 corporals, 1 drummer and 55 privates. The Lieutenants were Henry Freeman and William Lambert, and the ensign Edward Long. The statement of the arms and ammunition in store mentions 80 muskets and 437 " flints." About 3 years later, there is a return relating to an East-Bourne Company, commanded by Captain Edward Auger. This return, dated May 31, 1807, deals not with men but with stores. The stores enumerated are as follows : muskets, bayonets, ramrods, pikes, side-arm belts, musket slings, pouches, pouch-belts, scabbards (sic), arm-chest, drums, drum-caves, drum-sticks, drum- carriages, drummers' swords. The mention above of " pikes " and " flints " is interesting in the light of the year 1910. The Captain Auger named was either the owner or the son of the owner of The Gore, which was sold soon afterwards to Dr. Brodie. The first military show which I remember was Queen Victoria's birthday parade at the Horse Guards in 1 850. It was specially fixed in iny memory by reason of the fact that as I was only 9 years old, I was therefore not able to see over the crowd, despite the best efforts of my father to give me a chance. We happened to find ourselves close alongside the carriage of the first Duke of Cambridge, son of George III. and father of the Duke well-known to the present generation as the Commander- in-Chief. Noticing the fact that I could see little or nothing, the kind old man beckoned to my father to lift me into the royal carriage where, of course, I saw everything, and studied most admiringly H.R.H.'s gorgeous uniform. Passing over the large and important camps which were established at and around East-Bourne during the CHAP. VI.] Military Episodes. 71 great Napoleonic wars, as beyond the scope of my personal knowledge, the modern military history of the place begins for me with 1853, and the only thing antecedent to that which I will refer to is the following matter : Between 1815 and 1855, though of course I can only speak personally of the latest years of that period, there was maintained at East-Bourne a slight make-believe of military show by the occupation of the house now known as " Government House " (between 157 and 159 Seaside) as the residence of some elderly officer representing the War Office, and the occupation of the Great Redoubt and some of the other towers and Langney Fort by a handful of decrepit artillerymen. These men were long under the command of a certain Sergeant Glass, who, when he became too old for the service of his country in a military capacity, was thought to be good enough to perform the duty of Inspector of Nuisances under the Local Board. In 1853, when the first ominous signs of the coming Crimean War were showing themselves, 2 "Companies" (as they were then called) of Foot Artillery, consisting of 4 Officers and about 140 men each, were sent to East-Bourne and quartered in the Great Redoubt and elsewhere. One of the Officers was a Mr. Phelips, a member of the Phelips Family who are still the owners of the celebrated and beautiful Jacobean Mansion of Montacute in Somersetshire, which I had an opportunity of seeing in 1870, when staying with friends in the neighbourhood. From the time that the troops came to East-Bourne and onwards till about 1858 there were always a certain number of Royal Artillery a quartered at East-Bourne, and as they were changed at not very long intervals a considerable number of men, in all, must have passed through the town. On Christmas Days my grand- mother always asked the young bachelor Officers to dinner. During the stress of the Crimean War the regular forces were strengthened, or replaced, by the Sussex Artillery (a) Of the Officers whose names I remember Major Clifford, Capt. Boothby and Lieuts. Tatton Brown, Phelips and Wortham went out to the Crimea. Amongst the other Officers were Capts. Leslie and O'Connell, Lieuts. Bolton, Peirce and Young. O'Connell was a nephew of the great Irish " Liberator." 72 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VI. Militia and the Norfolk Artillery Militia. Passing over the former, who were commanded by Colonel Penrice, it may be interesting to recall the names of the Officers belonging to the latter ; and an examination of the places with which they were connected will make it clear that the spirit of Mr. Haldane's Territorial System is in certain respects neither new nor unprecedented. Lieut.-Col. Commandant, G. Carr-Lloyd (Lancing) ; Major, C. M. Chester ; Captains, R. Wetherall, F. Moor, Sir J. Si D. Scott, Hon. W. E. Sackville-West (Withyham), W. A. St. Glair (East Grinstead) ; Lieuts., W. W. M. Walker, H. D. C. Cole (East-Bourne), F. Barcharcl (Horsted), H. Molineux (Lewes), J. H. Sadler ; Second Lieuts., H. L. Nicholson (Lewes), M. M. Turner, G. E. Clarke (East Grinstead), F. W. Jones, J. Darby (Markly) ; Adjutant, Capt. H. T. Settle ; Surgeons, T. Newham, H. (jr. Philpott. More than those indicated above were connected with the Coiinty of Sussex but I am unable to assign localities to them. Concerning these officers it may be remarked that Colonel Carr-Lloyd had served in the Rifle Brigade, and was connected with the Brighton banking firm of Hall, Lloyd, Bevan and West, since merged in Barclay & Co. Capt. St. Clair was not very much seen at East-Bourne, because during most of the time under consideration his company was quartered at Little- hamptoii. Some years later he became Lieut.-Col. Commandant of the regiment. Captain Sackville-West was the youngest son of the 5th Earl De La Warr and, therefore, brother of the 6th Earl and father of the present Lord Sackville. He died as recently as 1908, before his brother, and therefore never succeeded to the peerage. Major Hayes-Sadler left the Militia and entered the Consular Service and died as recently as 1909, after having been made a K.C.M.G. Sir Sibbald Scott of Dunninald was the 3rd baronet and father of the present baronet of that creation. He had a large family of children who contributed to enliven the East- Bourne society of the period. One daughter was known among her associates as " Budge." CHAP. VI.] Crimean Days. 73 Whilst their son was at East-Bourne, the Earl and Countess De La Warr stayed for some time in the town. Her ladyship's walking-out costume rendered her somewhat remarkable to look at. The De La Warr family have often attracted notice for unconventional conduct. In 1853, the first-born of the family of that generation, Viscount Cantelupe, was dead, and the next heir was the second son, who bore the title of Lord West. He served in the Crimea and commanded the 21st Foot. I remember him giving evidence before a Parliamentary Committee in favour of the Three Bridges and East Grinstead Railway. The next brother and heir to the peerage, Reginald W r . Sackville-West, was a Sussex clergyman of very extreme High Church views and costumed accordingly. Eventually he succeeded to the Earldom and gave up his clerical costume, becoming a country squire much given to hospitality of very select sort at Buckhurst Park. Kings and Princes were his most appreciated guests there, though he kindly invited my wife and me to go over there one afternoon from East Grinstead which we did on August 7, 1883. A visit of the King of Wurtemburg in 1853, is commemorated in Withyham Church by a painted window. By the way, there is in that same Church another painted window of great interest to people of an heraldic turn of mind, commemorating as it does, 28 Sackville marriages since the Conquest, with the armorial bearings of the parties. The more modern history of the family and their curious internecine peerage fights would be outside the purview of these pages. Concerning the other officers there is nothing much to remark. One of the surgeons, Mr. Newham, rendered great service by his kindness during the dangerous illness of a member of my own family. It may be added, though it goes without saying, that the Regimental Band was very popular with the town-people. The officers gave a Ball on Wednesday, July 18, 1855, which was attended by the rank and fashion of the town and neighbourhood. The military history of East-Bourne subsequently 74 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VI. to the Crimean War presents a few (but not many) points of interest. A rifle range was established on the " Crumbles " to the E. of the town, and parties of Guards and Infantry of the Line came down every summer for many years for rifle practice, changing every few weeks. The Volunteer Movement of 1859 was taken up in due course at East-Bourne and a rifle company, which became the 19th Sussex, was formed, and reached a strength of about 70 officers and men. With much ceremonial a silver bugle was presented to the Corps on August 15, 1861, but the Corps did not have either a long or prosperous career. The Commanding Officer was Captain Frederick Freeman Thomas, the Squire of Ration, who had been in the Rifle Brigade. Owing to his ill-health he was never able to give as much personal attention to the Corps as was desirable, and the effective command fell into the hands of 2 junior officers, neither of whom was sufficiently gifted for his work, and eventually the Corps was disbanded for insubordination. The insubordination was of a somewhat venial character from a civilian's point of view, but, of course, discipline had to be upheld. Attempts were made to start a new Corps, using up the best of the old members, but the effort was not carried through although the War Office gave some encouragement to it. Eventually a few of the best men were permitted to join the 3rd Sussex Artillery Volunteers about to be mentioned, and whose Head-Quarters were at Hailsham. The bugle above alluded to is still in East-Bourne, In the possession of Mr. T. Bennett. When the Corps was disbanded it had a balance to its credit of 40, which, after many years'" delay and a tremendous expenditure of red-tape, reached 1 the coffers of the Volunteer Corps now to be dealt with. It was very soon after the Volunteer Movement began that Mr. G. Darby, the ex-M.P. and of many other useful vocations, conceived the idea that as Sussex wa& a seaboard county it needed an Artillery Volunteer force quite as much as Rifles. He thought too that they should be Field Artillery. His personal influence soon enabled CHAP. VI.] The Volunteer Movement. 75- him to succeed in forming the 3rd Sussex Artillery- Volunteers with their Head-Quarters at Hailsham ; and he was also able, owing to his influence with the farmers of the neighbourhood, to obtain the promise of assistance in the way of horses for horsing the guns of his Corps. This last-named matter was an entirely new departure in the Volunteer Movement, and the experiment was viewed with considerable interest by the War Office. At a later date an Artillery Battery was formed at East-Bourne in connection with Captain Darby's Corps, and at his death in 1877 the Head-Quarters were moved from Hailsham to East-Bourne and became the 2nd Sussex Artillery under Colonel Cardwell, a nephew of the former head of the War Office who made the well- known great changes in the British military system. Just as Mr. Darby thought that the seaboard of Sussex needed an Artillery Volunteer Force, so I, for the same reason, thought it needed an Engineer Force ; and I convened, in 1888, some meetings for the purpose of forming one. The artizans of East-Bourne responded promptly and nobly, and as the result of a lecture I gave at St. Mary's Hall, Old Town, on April 17, 1889, I soon collected 160 candidates to fill up the first company of 100 men in the 1st Sussex Engineers. However, the movement hung fire for many months owing to the difficulty of getting Officers. The War Office very strongly pressed me to accept the command, but I thought that owing to my age (47) and for other reasons, I was not good enough for the post. Yet, had I foreseen certain subsequent events and difficulties, 1 should certainly have consented to serve as Captain Com- mandant. At last a very capable 1st lieutenant offered his services in the person of Mr. A. A. Oakden, now Lieut.-Colonel commanding the Sussex Engineers under Mr. Haldane's scheme, and right well has he stuck to his work during the 20 and more years that have elapsed. The regiment grew from 1 company to 2 ; from 2 companies to 4 ; and then from 4 companies to 12, and during the South African War mustered over 1100 members on an establishment of about 30 officers and 76 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VI. 1200 men. On the inspection day, August 25, 1900, no fewer than 876 officers and men were in camp. Of course these were not all East-Bourne men, the towns of Brighton, NeAvhaven, Seaford, Bexhill, and Hastings having joined in the movement. The War Office lent us the Great Redoubt at East-Bourne as our first Head- Quarters, and we took it over on April 21, 1890. I look back on our various camps at Sheffield Park, Rye, Shorncliffe and Arundel with the greatest possible pleasure ; on Sheffield Park especially, because the late Lord Sheffield, who was our Honorary Colonel, took much pains during many years to make things pleasant for us. I could write what, I think, would be a very interesting account of our camps at Sheffield Park, one of which, that of 1900, extended over 4 weeks ; but it would occupy too much space in this volume which has already grown far beyond its intended original dimensions. I cannot, however, forbear from giving 2 anecdotes. To understand the point of the first it must be mentioned that the late Lord Sheffield was a very shy, retiring man, whom it was very difficult to draw out into public gaze. One day when we were in camp (I forget the year) he sent for me to inquire whether we could throw a military bridge over his lake. I replied that so far as construction was concerned there would be no difficulty, Tnit that the economical War Office only supplied us with bridging materials sufficient for the length of 50 ft., whilst the breadth of the lake must be nearly 200 ft. He thereupon said, " If I find the materials will your fellows build the bridge ? " To this I replied in the affirmative. His Lordship instructed his Agent to scour the country and collect as many oil casks and planks as possible. This was successfully done and the bridge was built, 180 ft. long. Lord Sheffield was so delighted that he allowed himself to be photographed standing alone on the bridge as if " monarch of all he surveyed." His Agent, Mr. Colgate, afterwards told me that it was a great proof of his Lordship's satisfaction that he had allowed himself to be photographed, for, he added, " I have never known him CHAP. VI.] The Volunteer Movement. 77 give his consent under any circumstances to be photo- graphed." My other anecdote concerns His Grace of Norfolk,, one of the most thorough soldiers and most genial of men I have ever known. It was customary for Officers in camp at Sheffield Park to hire wooden floor-boards as- floors for their tents. As Quartermaster it was my duty to see that the Officers of the 1st Sussex Engineers were so provided by hiring wooden floors from the Army and Navy Stores. At the opening of a certain camp our floor-boards had not arrived, so I went after the A. & N. foreman to complain. He offered the usual apologies, said, of course, that it was the Railway Company that was to blame, but added " There is a set of boards tying against a tree in the 2nd Sussex Lines opposite the Duke of Norfolk's tent. If he does not want them you can have them." Forthwith I sought out and found the Duke, and asked very humbly if I might annex the floor-boards alluded to. He replied in a very friendly, insulting, military, sybarite, and emphatic tone, " No sir, I am not going to use them. You want them? You ought to be ashamed of such effeminacy. Look at my tent floor : grass, sir ! grass ! quite good enough for me : quite good enough for you ! " Nothing daunted by this patriotic explosion, and with no scruples of conscience, I directed my men to march off with the floor-boards in triumph, and they were safely laid down in my tent. The whole consignment of floor-boards arrived from. London a few hours later. Before quitting the subject of Sheffield Park I must not omit a passing mention of Lord Sheffield's special military gatherings there. On several occasions he invited all the Volunteers of Sussex to assemble there for Reviews, paying all their travelling and other expenses, feeding them when there, the Officers having champagne luncheons and the men humbler fare. Such gatherings took place on July 21, 1894, July 27, 1895, May 11, 1896. On the last-named occasion the late King, then Prince of Wales, was present. Another such fete took place on July 6, with fireworks in the evening. 78 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VI. Easter Monday Volunteer Reviews of the original sort are now a thing of the past ; they began at Brighton and in early days took a very picnic shape. The first Easter Monday Review held at East-Bourne was on April 11, 1887. There was another review on April 2, 1888 ; then not another till 1890. In 1891, there was one on a limited scale, the troops assembled comprising only a Surrey Regiment and the Sussex Engineers. In 1893, however, there was a large gathering, and the operations covered a considerable extent of ground. In 1894, there was again only a limited force for the day's work operations by the Engineers on the Downs through East Dean and as far as Birling Gap. I reckoned that I walked on that day 14 miles, though at no time was I more than about 3 miles away from home. The proceedings ended in an unusual scene. We had provided food for a much larger number of men than actually appeared on parade ; this was because of the known impossibility of making good any shortage, if there had been one, in a village which had practically no shops. At the end of the day, therefore, when, as Quartermaster, I found myself in the possession of a large surplus of eatables, I sold it off to the villagers, who proved eager to buy such dainties as Melton Mowbray pork pies, etc., at so much a dozen. In 1897 we Engineers only, took train to Polegate and marched to Alfriston. My own last Easter Monday military duties were performed in 1902, on the Downs immediately contiguous to Jevington. The autumn of that year saw me gazetted out of the Volunteer Force as too old and decrepit. This rebuff was the outcome of red-tape at the War Office without even the knowledge or consent of my Commanding Officer. Subsequently, in consequence of his remonstrances, the Gazette notice was cancelled, and another one substituted, in language which at least was respectful, and which at the same time conferred on me a step in rank. The South African War gave rise to certain incidents connected with the 1st Sussex Engineers which are of sufficient interest to deserve record in these pages, the more so as I suppose that nobody but myself HAP. VI.] The South African War. 79 possesses the requisite materials for framing the record. When our difficulties in Africa became acute, Volunteers to make up a section of one Officer and 25 men were called for, and were quickly forthcoming, the number of applicants, namely 70, being far in excess of the number required. Lieut. Heley was accepted for the command, and a picked body of men was easily made up, comprising one Sergeant, three Corporals and 21 .Sappers. East-Bourne supplied 17, Newhaven 5, and Seaford 4, each man representative of some particular trade. In addition to the stores and equipment provided by the Government, the ladies of East-Bourne contributed large quantities of creature comforts of every kind. When these were sorted out, it was found that there was a deficiency of shirts, woollen helmets, portable foods and stationery. These deficiencies were, however, afterwards made good. On January 26, a dinner in honour of the Volunteers was given at the Queen's Hotel at which 170 sat down, the Mayor (Mr. H. W. Keay) in the chair. On Sunday February 4, 1900, the men .assembled at St. Saviour's Church for a farewell service, but they did not actually quit East-Bourne until Saturday, February 17. They went in the first instance to Chatham for some final technical training, and embarked at Southampton in the Tintagel Castle on March 10. Of course I went to see them off and inspected their quarters on board ship. They were very pinched in their sleeping accommodation, as was to be expected. The Duke of Norfolk went out in the :same ship in command of a detachment of his own Corps, the 2nd Sussex Rifles. This Engineer section returned in May 1901, arriving at East-Bourne on May 16, and on May 19, assembled again at St. Saviour's Church for a Thanksgiving Service to cele- brate their return. On March 30, 1901, a second detachment left East- Bourne for South Africa under the command of Lieut. F. R. Paramor. The numbers and the details of the arrangements were very much the same as in the former case and need not be repeated. 80 Old Memories of Eastbourne. [CHAP. VI. The surviving members of both detachments were brought to the Devonshire Park on November 23, 1901, to receive their South African medals, which were distributed by the late Duke of Devonshire. I have left to the last some account of 2 Royal visits with military objects in view which must receive a brief notice. In August 1860, a trial was made of some of the then newly-invented Armstrong guns by testing their powers against one of the Martello Towers (No. 71) which had become untenantable owing to the encroach- ment of the sea. The guns were mounted on the slope of Anthony's Hill, now, by building operations, quite a near suburb of East-Bourne. The guns were 3 in number : a 100-pounder, an 80-pounder, and a 40- pounder. The range was 1000 yards. The visitors who came to witness the experiments included the Duke of Cambridge, Field-Marshal Sir John Burgoyne, and the inventor of the guns, Sir William (afterwards Lord) Armstrong. The experiments were so far successful that by repeated shots the tower was seriously injured, but not beyond repair, and I fancy it was a surprise to the Officers present that the masonry proved so well able to withstand the shots which struck it. It spoke much for the quality of the work put into the towers 56 years previously, and showed that against the smaller and smooth-bore guns of the time the towers would have been of undoubted value to bar the approach of the French. On August 31, 1874, the Duke of Cambridge again came to East-Bourne for some other Artillery experiments at Anthony's Hill, and I was called upon to comply with his request to be allowed to follow some of the shots through a 4-inch astronomical telescope which I had conveyed to the scene of the operations. There were also Artillery experiments in 1876, at Langney on October 23, and at the Great Redoubt on November 3. I regret not to have preserved any notes or newspaper cuttings on these later events, and my Diary contains nothing more than a mention of the bare facts just stated. CHAP. VI.] Military Episodes. 81 Writing to me under date of December 9, 1873, Mr. F. W. H. Cavendish remarked, " A very old man, who recollects the Martello Tower being built, tells me that where Anthony's Tower stands was always known as the * Hill Field,' and was much the same as it is now. The old man's name is Morris." This allusion to Anthony's Hill had reference to a question which had been raised as to whether that hill was a natural or an artificial mound. The only famous military commander I ever knew at East-Bourne was Lord Napier of Magdala. He with his wife and children had a house in College Road for some months in 1883. He was a singularly quiet and unassuming man to talk to. I well remember an interview with him on February 3 of that year. Not at East-Bourne, but at Groombridge Place, near Tunbridge Wells, I once met Lord Wolseley. He was calling there, I think by appointment, to see that interesting old Jacobean House ; I dropped in by chance to get some tea. His conversation turned on various non-military topics, including the merits of port wine as a drink. I never met him during his sojourn at Glynde some years later, though I had on one occasion to propose a vote of thanks to his daughter for giving away the prizes at the Lewes School of Art. The last time I visited the battle-field of Waterloo, which was in 1897, I brought away from Hougomont, a pocketfull of horse chestnuts. These were planted in my garden at East-Bourne, and several developed into healthy trees ; one of these, transplanted to Sydenham, is now (1910) 12ft. high. A Cavalry Officer who, as Earl of Dundonald, acquired great fame in the South African War came to East-Bourne on April 6, 1882, only as Lord Cochrane, and Chairman of a public Company. The Company was that formed to work a certain patent called Shone's Ejector for lifting sewage from a low to a higher level. The system was adopted by the East-Bourne Local Board and it was as a member of that body I suppose that the Company invited me to their luncheon at the Queen's Hotel, on the date above-named. G 82 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. VI. Probably East-Bourne numbered amongst its inhabit- ants 50 years ago survivors, naval or military, of the Great War, though I do not recollect them. I do, however, remember often having heard from the lips of an old family servant, who died at The Gore in 1856, at the age of 86, many tales of the alarm inspired amongst the previous generation by the Emperor Napoleon I., whose colloquial name was always, she said, " Old Boney," which name was used in terrorem over naughty children ; never, of course, over me, because I was what was called " a good boy." One old veteran of the Napoleonic Wars who lived at East-Bourne was Benjamin Elliott, who died at Seaside on February 4, 1876. His tombstone at the Cemetery bears the following inscription : " In affectionate remembrance of Benjamin Elliott, former- ly 95th Regiment (The Rifles). Died February 4, 1876, aged 91. He was present at the following battles Roleia (1808), Vimiera, Corunna, Almeida, Busaco, Fuentes de Honor, Badajoz, Albuera, Barrosa, Pyrenees, Pampaluna, St. Sebastian, Nivelle, Orthez, Toulouse, Quatre Bras, Waterloo. ' I have fought the good fight, ' I have finished my course. 1 1 have kept the faith, " The spelling of some of these names is not correct. I may here add that in August 1863, I met on Ryde Pier an old Trafalgar sailor with whom I had many talks, both nautical and religious ; for somebody had got hold of him shortly before, and he professed to be a Roman Catholic. Just before my grandfather's appointment to the living of East-Bourne, or to be quite precise, in the month of October 1809, the Jubilee of George III. was celebrated. East-Bourne contributed according to its means to this interesting national event, and some years ago I came upon the following account of what was done here : "The visitors and inhabitants of this fashionable watering-place anxious to show their loyalty and attachment to our most gracious and beloved Sovereign, celebrated his accession to the throne in a most distinguished and spirited manner. The Royal Artillery and Royal Surrey and Shropshire regiments mustered at one o'clock in a field near the Sea Houses and fired a feu-de-joie which was answered by the Martello Towers along the coast, beginning at Beachy Head and ending at Hastings. Two hundred and seventy woTnen and children belonging to the Shropshire were feasted in the barrack square with roast beef and plum pudding, the band of the Shropshire playing ' God Save the King.' The Lodge of Druids assembled together to dine at the King's Arms and in the evening the Shropshire and Surrey officers and a numerous party dined and concluded the day with a ball." CHAP. VI.] Naval Episodes. 83 The remaining years of the great European War, which terminated in 1815 with the crowning victory of Waterloo, do not appear to have left any particular impress upon the history of our parish. I may, however, mention the fact that the Allied Sovereigns, the Emperor of Russia and the King of Prussia, on the occasion of their visit to England as the guests of the Prince Regent, passed very near East-Bourne in travelling from. Portsmouth to Dover, for they halted in the middle of the day near Hailsham and lunched at the Amberstone Farm. a Though the heading of this chapter includes Naval episodes, there is not very much for me to say of things naval directly connected with East-Bourne. I remember one day in the summer of 1849 (I think that was the year), going down to the sea-front and seeing a ship named the Mayflower with her sails set and apparently pursuing a voyage. As a matter of fact, she had sprung a, leak, and after getting only a little way Westwards to nearly opposite to where the Pier was afterwards erected, she sank in shallow water. Her cargo being blocks of granite, rendered salvage virtually impossible, and she became a total wreck. The hull remained visible for a long time ; in fact, the lowermost part of it could be seen at very low water for a great many years, and traces of it may be seen now, covered with seaweed and marine incrustation. On October 19, 1853, a very disastrous wreck occurred off Beachy Head. In a very severe gale, a large ship the Dalhousie of 800 tons was overwhelmed by being thrown on her beam-ends and sank almost immediately. Of the passengers and crew, which num- bered about 60, one seaman only was saved, who was picked up after many hours exposure. Ship and cargo were estimated to be worth 100,000. A picture of her (a) A good deal of uncertainty exists as to the origin of this word "Amberstone"; what the word means, or what the said stone was. I remember many years ago a former inhabitant of Hailsham having told me of someone, known I think to him, having made a diligent, but unsuccessful, search for this " amber stone," reputed to have been a Druidical relic which had been buried or had sunk into the stream, which runs through the parish of Hellingly. 84 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VI. appears in the Illustrated London News of October 29, 1853, of which I have preserved a copy. There have of course been many other wrecks along the coast during my time, but the only one calling for any notice was that of the steamer Gannet, which went ashore at Seaford in April 1882, and broke up. It was a very queer comical sight, for we were able to walk up to the ship lying almost upright upon the beach with an enormous rent in her side ; and merchandise, boxes, and bales of goods of every description floating about in the water, or high and dry on the beach. I may here mention 2 wrecks which though of somewhat ancient date are still kept alive amongst the traditions of East-Bourne by engravings which now and again come under the notice of the public at auction sales. The first of these wrecks was that of a Spanish Han-of-War, the Nympha Americana of 60 guns, and carrying a valuable cargo, which was captured near Cadiz in 1747 by the English, and was being brought as a prize to London but went ashore at Beachy Head. Some extracts from the notes attached to the picture will be given in Chapter XIX. (post.) The second of the two wrecks to which I have alluded was that of the Thames, which went ashore near Langney Point in 1822. From a memorandum which I suppose was supplied at the time to purchasers of the picture, I borrow the following details, copying the memorandum verbatim : " A view of the Thames, East Indiaman, William Haviside, Esq., Commander. Burthen, 1350 tons. This fine ship was out-ward bound from London for China, and was driven on shore by a heavy gale, near Eastbourne, Sussex, on Sunday morning,, the 3d of February, 1822 ; her extensive Cargo was taken out without loss (excepting damage by water) under the direction and management of Mr. J. B. Stone, of New-haven, Agent to Lloyds. She lay in this situation from the 3d of February to the 22d, when she was got off, to the great gratification of many thousands of Spectators ; she was then conducted away for Deptford, by two steam vessels, which were in attendance for that purpose. She arrived safe at Deptford, on the 24th of February, with a prospect of being speedily repaired to proceed on her original destination." I think the "thousands of Spectators" must be a figure of speech, for there were no excursion trains in those days ! In the days before what is ridiculously known as- " Free Trade " one often saw at East-Bourne small Plate XXVII. To face p. 84. Figs. 51-52. or TTTF. xvMPTn A S?V.VLSIT ri ~--k- -^o? & c, - *: * 6pf: -^ i .S^^>lli^c > WRECK OF THE "NYMPHA AMERICANA," AT BEACHY HEAD, 1747. (From an old Print). WRECK OF THE "THAMES," AT EAST-BOURNE, 1822. (From an old Print). CHAP. VI.] Naval Episodes. 85 coasting vessels called " Boulder-boats." These went backwards and forwards to Newhaven carrying thither boulders collected on the seashore of Sussex. These stones were transhipped at Newhaven, and conveyed to France for use in the manufacture of glass. When this traffic had gone on for a long time the French Government put on an Import Duty and destroyed the trade ; and, thanks to Free Trade [!] we could do nothing to retaliate. I was told in 1906 by an old seafaring man at Newhaven that the action of the French Government had deprived Newhaven of 15,000 a year. I remember Captain Harvey, R.N., the inventor of the Harvey torpedo, staying for some time at East-Bourne in 1879, and I made his acquaintance. His invention, ingenious as it was, has failed to hold its own against the well-known Whitehead torpedo. The most disastrous boating accident in my time happened on Sunday, June 11, 1876. An unlicensed boatman took out 12 men and boys for a sail ; a gust of wind blew the boat over ; she sank in a few minutes and only one man of the 13 was saved, and that by a coastguard boat which put off directly the accident was noticed from the shore. Having always been fond of ships and shipping, I have taken every opportunity available to me of seeing the great shows of ships at Portsmouth, beginning with the visit of the French Fleet in September, 1865, and I have seen nearly every great show of the kind and Naval Review down to the Review of August 1909, in honour of the Emperor and Empress of Russia. The illumina- tion of the ships on that occasion surpassed any previous thing of the sort I had ever seen. Formerly the ships were lighted up in skeleton outline, but in 1909, the whole surface of the hulls seemed to blaze with light. " Hour s|jigs are not fofll-msnntb'." (Antony and Cleopatra}. [To Mr. McKenna, M.P., IQIO.] [86] CHAPTER VII. COMPANIES, SOCIETIES, INSTITUTIONS. Literary Institution. Coal and Clothing Society. Blanket Loan Society. Coal Company. Church Institute. Mutual Improvement Society. A celebrated Shakespeare Reading. Charity Organisation Society. East-Bourne Choral Society. Purcell Glee Society. Devonshire Chib. " House of Commons." Its Sessional Dinners. Reflections on its usefulness. Regrets at its discontinuance. Young Men's Christian Association. 41 Cmwis is suw gains, anir Iwrries bark for mar*," (J. MONTGOMERY). sxrals bg msiinri to m& ofytt turn ; alliance, anir in frirn&s|n|r burn." (ADDISON). EAST-BOURNE, like most other towns which have had a rapid rise, has had its full share of new schemes, most of which died a natural death after a precarious existence. I cannot pretend to enumerate all that I remember, to say nothing of those I do not remember, nor can I touch upon those started parochially in connection with particular Churches. Nor shall I mention here some which find a more fitting place elsewhere, such as the Gas Company, the Electric Light Company, the Conservative Association, the Cricket Club, the Natural History Society, and others. The earliest instance of the existence of a body of persons organised at East-Bourne for a defined purpose is, I think, to be found in the " Society for Prosecuting Thieves, Felons, and Receivers of Stolen Goods," set on foot " at a meeting held at the New Inn, East-Bourne, Sussex, on Tuesday, the Sixteenth day of December, 1800." I am indebted to Mr. Emary of Barclay's Bank, for calling my attention to this body, and showing me a copy of the Society's " Articles," printed by " Hewlett, Printer, Hailsham." But I have not come upon any allusions to the Society's labours, or indeed to any mention of it anywhere. CHAP. VII.] Societies. 87 I suppose that almost or quite the earliest organised Society in East-Bourne for intellectual purposes was the " Mechanics " or " Literary Institution," dating, I think, from 1844. Such Institutions were established in many parts of England by Lord Brougham and people associated with him, but they were not generally successful or long-lived, and the East-Bourne Institution was no exception. The house at the corner of South Street facing the Town Hall was its Head-quarters for many years. Its Library was stored there and lectures were given there. The only lectures I remember were 2 in 1851 : one by Dr. Hall on Electricity and one by Mr. W. Brodie on Life in the Colonies. The Library was afterwards moved to No. 14 Seaside, now the Office of the Water Company, and after a precarious existence was dispersed by sale, and so the whole affair came to an end. Next in point in time, I think, was the "East-Bourne Coal and Clothing Society," but I possess no materials for describing its work, though it had a prolonged and useful existence under the very capable management of the Vicar, Mr. Pitman. In order to occupy ground not occupied by this Society in 1849, a Committee of ladies founded the " East-Bourne Blanket Loan Society." I have a copy of the original Prospectus, and a nearly complete file of its Annual Reports. The names of the first Office-bearers are given thus : Committee : Mrs. Pierpoint, Mrs. Graham, Mrs. Hall, Mrs. Gibson, Miss L. Brodie, Miss Washington. Treasurer : Miss G ilbert. Secretary : Miss J. Brodie. A capital sum was subscribed to purchase at the outset 132 blankets, and the subscribers had the privilege of nominating borrowers, who had nothing to pay except 6d. for the expense of cleaning the blanket on its return at the end of the Winter. The blankets were given out in November and had to be returned in June. I was appointed Editor of the Annual Report (only 4 pages long) in 1854, at the age of 13, and continued to assist in the work until the dissolution of the Society in 1892 on the death of two aunts into whose hands the management had drifted. 88 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VII. Its operations had lasted 44 years, and I consider, from, personal knowledge, that it conferred many benefits on the deserving poor in all parts of the town. At the end I had risen to the responsible position of Treasurer, and so well had the ladies carried on their work that I had about 140 in hand. This I distributed, acting on what the lawyers called the doctrine of cy-pres, amongst the Clergy of the 3 poor Parishes, St. Mary's, Christ Church and All Souls', to be employed for Blanket purposes at their discretion. The " East-Bourne Coal Company " was founded in 1874, as a Limited (and, as it proved, very limited) Company. Its intended capital was 3000, but I do not think that much of it was raised, and the Company's trading operations did not last long. This was sur- prising, because at the time, the coals obtainable in East-Bourne were high in price and bad in quality, to say nothing of their being often sent out short in weight, and amongst the 6 Directors, there was certainly one of great experience and business capacity, whose presence should have insured success, namely Mr. W. Routledge. The Secretary was a Solicitor, Mr. W. G. Wheatcroft, who showed his foresight by only describing himself as " Secretary pro tern." In 1878, a meeting of Churchmen was held to found a " Church Institute," under the " Limited Liability Acts." Though Mr. F. J. Howard consented to be Chairman, and upwards of 100 names were given in as Members, the scheme did not prosper, Churchmen in those days, as in these, being apathetic as to the necessity of organising for the dissemination of their principles. The scheme had included a Reading Room, Library, Lectures, and some of the more obvious attributes of a Club. There was in existence at that time a Society called the " Mutual Improvement Society." Though not avowedly a Dissenting Organisation, it was almost exclusively managed by Dissenters, and during its existence, no doubt did some good amongst the young men and young women in the town. CHAP. VII.] Societies. 89 We had been having in 1881, at our house, several Shakesperian readings for charity purposes, in particular for the Princess Alice Hospital, and I was waited upon one day by the principal man of the Mutual Improvement Society, to ask if I thought that the ladies and gentlemen "who had assembled at our house for our private readings, would consent to appear on a public platform to read before the members of his Society as spectators, as they had read at our house, with all the same details of music, evening dress, etc., which we had had. I said in reply that I would consult my lady friends. I did so, and there was at first some little reluctance manifested at the idea of appearing in public before a middle-class audience in their best frocks and jewels ; but they eventually consented, without, I think, any exception, and the reading came off at the New Hall on February 13, 1882. The play was Shakespeare's Twelfth Night, and the following was the cast : ORSINO, Duke of Illyria Rev. H. R. Whelpton SEBASTIAN, brother of Viola Mr. J. Devonshire ANTONIO, Sea Captain, brother of Viola Mr. G. F. Chambers SEA CAPTAIN, friend of Viola Rev.J.H. Usill VALENTINE, gentleman attending the Duke... Rev. W. A. Bathurst CURIO, gentleman attending the Duke Mr. J. G. Morison SIR TOBY BELCH, Uncle of Olivia Rev. R.Allen SIR ANDREW AGUECHEEK Rev. J. Fletcher MALVOLIO, Steward to Olivia Rev. F. W. Haines FABIAN, Servant to Olivia Mr. J. H. C. Coles CLOWN Mr. W. Morrison PRIEST (Act V., Scene i.) Rev. W. A. Bathurst OLIVIA, a rich Countess Miss A. Withers VIOLA, in love with the Duke Mrs. G. F. Chambers MARIA, Olivia's Maid Miss Vulliamy SERVANT (Act III., Scene iv.) Mr. G. F. Chambers 1ST OFFICER (Act III., Scene iv.) Dr. Hayman 2ND OFFICER (Act III., Scene iv.) Mr. G. H. Lawrence The Vocalists were the Rev. W. Smith-Dorrien, Miss H. Lowe, Mrs. G. F. Chambers, and Madame Talon. The Trios and Quartets were sung by Mrs. Wheatcroft, Miss Vulliamy, Miss Devonshire, Mrs. and Miss Coles, Miss Boileau, Miss Withers, the Revs. V. J. A. Browne, J.B.Fletcher and H.R. Whelpton, and Mr. J. H. C. Coles. The accompanist was Mr. G. Legge. The Hall was crowded to its utmost capacity, and a substantial sum realised for the funds of the Society. I heard afterwards 90 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. VII.. that many of the audience appreciated very rrmch the opportunity of seeing how ladies and gentlemen in the upper circles of society dress and demean themselves. It seems a funny reason for wishing to patronise such a show. On November 29, 1882, we had a Meeting at our house convened to consider the possibility of establishing for East-Bourne a branch of the Charity Organisation Society. We were fortunate in getting the help, as imported speakers, of two M.P.'s so experienced in Social Work as Mr. T. Salt, an Ex-Parliamentary Secretary of the Local Government Board and Mr. J. G. Talbot, an Ex-Secretary of the Board of Trade; and a most capable man offered his services as Local Secretary, Col. G. W. Macauley, R.E. In spite of an enthusiastic Meeting and much promise of support in the town later on, the scheme could not be carried through because of the opposition of the " Do-Nothings " on the Magisterial Bench. Everybody who knows anything of the work of a well-organised Charity Organisation Society knows its value in checking crime and vagrancy. As this volume is not intended to be a detailed chronicle of East-Bourne events, I only deal with those with -which I had some personal connection. I shall therefore finish this Chapter by mentioning only two or three more movements with which I had something to do. An " East-Bourne Choral Society " under the able management of Mr. H. W. Hardy, the organist of the Parish Church, lasted many years, but it was more or less open to the public, and its concerts held in public rooms. The idea came into my head in 1887, to see whether it would be possible to form amongst the private residents a Glee Society, based on the principle of having all the concerts on a comparatively small scale, and only in private drawing-rooms. Various ladies of our acquaintance were consulted and the following agreed to take part in the movement, so far as to lend their drawing-rooms, turn and turn about, for rehearsals and concerts in succession: Hon. C. Ellis, Mrs. Baddeley,Mrs.. CHAP. VII.] Societies. 91 Barton, Mrs. Chambers, Mrs. Devonshire, Mrs. Lawrence, Mrs. Macauley, Mrs. B. Roberts, and Mrs. Whelpton. It was agreed to limit the houses frequented to 10, and the number of members singing and non-singing to 50. On these lines, the " Purcell Glee Society" was started, and flourished during 2 winters, yielding many very pleasant evenings. We had an excellent conductor in Mr. Henry Baillie, then and still the organist of All Souls' Church. He took great pains with the singers, but unfortunately some of the young lady singers had got it into their heads that they did not need any teaching or advice. More- over, the low subscription was based on the idea that only singers were to be supplied with music gratis, but non-singers claimed also to have music, and this could not be supplied from an annual subscription of only 5s. I am sorry to say that the Society perished before it had accomplished its 3rd year. The rules and arrangements set out for its government always seemed to me reasonable and judicious, and I, for one, regretted the loss of the pleasant evening entertainments, of which the best, were perhaps, those arranged at Lady Howard De Walden's house by her daughter, Miss Charlotte Ellis (" Pussy Ellis "). In the " Seventies," as private residents began to increase in numbers, the want of a gentleman's Club came to be felt and the result was the foundation in 1872, of the Devonshire Club. The . initial steps were taken at a meeting held at Mr. F. W. H. Cavendish's house, on September 9, 1872. The following were appointed a provisional Committee : Mr. Cavendish, Dr. Hayman, Mr. F. J. Howard, Mr. R, Insoll, Dr. Lavies, Mr. W. Leaf, Mr. R. Pidcock, Dr. Bransby Roberts, Mr. F. C. S. Roper, Mr. C. Stiff, the Rev. H. R. Whelpton and myself ; with power to add to their number. Under this regulation Dr. W. Bell, Mr. T. H. Devonshire, Mr. J. G. Morison, the Rev. R. W. Pierpoint and Mr. W. G. Wheatcroft were added. But throughout the whole of the proceedings, Mr. Devonshire was the moving spirit, and if it had not been for his tact, discretion, experience, and zeal, I doubt whether the 92 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VII. movement would ever have prospered as it did during its early stages/ /) The necessary capital was put at 5000 in shares of 10 each, and the greater part of it was raised promptly and without any difficulty. The Club-house on the Grand Parade was opened on August :2, 1873, and the only disturbing element was an unsuccessful effort made in 1874, to open it on Sundays. A further effort in the following year for the same purpose was successful, whereupon several members resigned their membership and sold their shares. I was one of the dissentients, and on the ground that at that time, at any rate in the history of East-Bourne, a Club- house open on Sundays was not needed. The members were practically all residents, and the Club had no kitchen arrangements for feeding its members, if there were any such who were without sufficient provision for being comfortably fed under the roof where they slept. What has been the position of the Club as regards its members and finances since 1875, I do not know. In the year 1882, on November 9, there was held in East-Bourne the first meeting of an Institution which was calculated to do, and I think did do, a great amount of good ; which at any rate afforded profitable amusement to a large number of people for several years, and occupied a considerable amount of space in the local Newspapers. It was called The " East-Bourne House of Commons." It was at the outset in some sense an offshoot of the Mutual Improvement Society, but soon acquired a position which enabled it to stand altogether on its own legs. So far as I remember, the credit of first broaching the idea was due to Mr. Nevill Strange, a local draper, and afterwards an Alderman of the Town Council. Strange was a Radical Dissenter of the deepest dye, the nearest approach to a 17th century Puritan that I ever knew. He was, however, at heart a good man, always anxious to do what he could to promote the religious and moral welfare of the young people whom he could influence, (a) At one of the Committee Meetings, Dr. Bell, who was sitting next to me, whispered "Is Mr. Devonshire any relation of the Duke of Devonshire? " The identity of the names seems to have led the dear Doctor astray. He once told me that roller- skating had brought him a good accession of patients injured by accidents. CHAP. VII.] " House of Commons:' 93- whether they were connected with his shop or with the Mutual Improvement Society. The idea with which he- and those who were associated with him started, was to' found an ordinary Debating Society to discuss the current topics of the day. But at the first Meeting called to- consider the question, the dominant idea was to make the new Society a reflex of the House of Commons, and in this way its title, as given above, was arrived at. The title settled, everything else followed as a matter of course. The administrative business was confided to a Committee of 20, consisting of 10 Conservatives and 10' Liberals, presided over by a Chairman of their own, but at the full meetings of the Members, the Chairman was called the " Speaker." The Members were divided into two Parties, seated to the Right and Left of the Speaker, a selection of those on the Right being called " The Government," each Member of which had an official title corresponding to the titles borne by Members of the Imperial Legislature at Westminster, whilst opposite to them were ranged the " Opposition." I was elected the first Speaker, and presided over the deliberations for 2 or 3 years. The first Meeting was a trial of strength between the 2 Parties which took the form of a Motion made by a local Liberal that the Gladstone Government then in Office at Westminster was worthy of the confidence of the country. At the end of the debate, I put the question from the Chair, appointed Tellers, the Members filed out into their respective " Aye " and " No " Lobbies, and when the Tellers handed in the numbers, I had to make the following announcement : For the Motion ... 61 Against ... ... 52 Majority 9 The newspaper report ends as follows: " The Speaker's- announcement that the Liberal Party were required to take Office was greeted with loud and continued cheering." The Session lasted from October till the following 94 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VII. Easter, after which the Members had a Dinner on May 9, 1883, at the Queen's Hotel to wind up the Session. The Session had proved a very stormy one. It coin- cided with the prolonged debates in the House of Commons concerning the Bradlaugh controversy. This was taken up in the East-Bourne House of Commons where Motions were made condemnatory of Bradlaugh's conduct and of the conduct of the Gladstone Government. The most important evening (April 5, 1883) was one of great excitement, and the division resulted as follows : For the Bradlaugh BiU ... 102 Against 103 Majority 1 and the " Government " went out, and the Conservatives came in, led by Lieut. Pownall. The next year's Sessional Dinner was held at the " New Hall " on April 30, 1884. The next Session, that of the Winter of 1884-85, saw the end of the East-Bourne House of Commons for a time. Public attention was absorbed by the election of the first Mayor and Town Council, and, a little later still, more absorbed by a great controversy over an Improve- ment Bill which the new Corporation was endeavouring to carry through Parliament. But these events were only incidental to the career of the local House of Commons. The determining cause of its break-up was a violent and abusive attack by a vulgar Socialist Radical named Bancroft on the Conservative Leader, a certain Lieut. Pownall. The Leaders of the Liberal Party even could not curb this ruffian ; and the Conservatives considered that it was their duty to abandon their work. I confess that, admitting the provocation to be very great, I doubted the wisdom of the course pursued by the Conservatives, though, as Speaker, and, therefore, pro hac vice not a Party man, I had no right and not much power to interfere. The House of Commons undoubtedly left a mark in many quarters in East-Bourne, and it was generally felt that it had performed useful .service in creating a taste for the study of English CHAP. VII.] " House of Commons" 95 History and the details of English Parliamentary Jife. Hence it came about that its discontinuance was regretted by many, and ere long its revival was not only suggested but carried out. This took place in 1895, the first meeting being on October 17. The state of parties was as follows : Liberals 67 ; Conservatives 60 ; Independents 42 ; so the Liberals took office. During the winter of 1895-6 there were 23 weekly sittings, at which debates on the former lines were carried out very successfully. On January 21 a very well-sustained debate on Church Disestablishment was brought to a close. The Session ended, as usual, with a sessional dinner held at the Queen's Hotel on April 22, 1896. This was a noteworthy gathering, because it was attended by persons of eminent station whose presence helped to support the idea that such institutions as Local Parliaments had passed beyond the stage of being treated with ridicule and contempt. Admiral Field, the M.P. for the Division, Sir William and Lady Charley, the Mayor (Alderman Skinner), Mr. Mayhewe, the Chairman of the Bench of Magistrates, and other local people of influence and position were present. Not the least useful item in the evening's proceedings was a letter from Lord Cranborne (now Marquis of Salisbury), expressing the opinion that " such Societies are a testimony to the regard with which Parliamentary institutions are still held by our countrymen." Lord and Lady Cranborne had been staying at East-Bourne, and that was why they had been asked to the dinner ; but they had been obliged to leave the town owing to the Easter Parliamentary recess having come to an end. The resuscitation of the House of Commons had been mainly brought about by the efforts of Mr. E. Elliott, whose services were recognised on the occasion by the presentation to him of a silver celery bowl. I had again performed during the Session the duties of Speaker, and not the least important reason for the success of the Session was the fact that the meetings were held in the Town Hall. The Ladies' Gallery there was nearly always full, and frequently very crowded, and the sixpences received from those visitors formed an important 96 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VII. contribution to the funds of the House. The number of members this Session amounted to more than 500. The Liberals took Office at the commencement of the Session, being then in a majority, but they were afterwards turned out by their Opponents. The critical division of the Session was on the question of the Disestablishment of the Church of England, as to which the numbers were : For Disestablishment ... 116 Against 145 Majority against ... 29 This involved the resignation of the Liberal Cabinet. The " House of Commons " resumed its debates on October 13, 1896, and continued them weekly through the winter. The annual dinner for some reason, which I do not now remember, was held as early as February 26, 1897, and was attended by Sir W. and Lady Charley, Sir Ellis and Lady Ashmead Bartlett, and Capt. the Hon. T. S. Brand amongst others. The Liberal party had recovered their position and were again in office, led by Alderman Strange as Prime Minister. I being still Speaker, had to make the principal speech of the evening. Personal circumstances compelled me at a subsequent period to resign the speakership. Unfortunately my successor had not the experience and tact required to keep order, and control the business. The members got out of hand, and, I am sorry to say, that the 4 ' East-Bourne House of Commons " came to an end, as it was found impossible to get the members together again, notwith- standing that a new Speaker was forthcoming, a Barrister friend of mine, then living at East-Bourne, who, I think, would have been quite competent to pick up the threads of the work which I had been obliged to drop. On January 29, 1883, we carried out at North field Grange, an experiment which, though we never repeated it, was a success, and might be repeated with good results by anybody having a house with sufficient reception rooms and there are many such now in East-Bourne. We asked all the members of the Young CHAP. VII.] A " Christian " Reception. 97 Men's Christian Association to an evening reception, with. leave to each to bring a " young lady." The attendance was 105 all told. They walked about ; and talked to one another ; then I talked to them, telling them something about the County of Sussex (I think that was my subject) ; then there was music of sorts, and the evening ended with light refreshments. We had then in our service a very experienced old housekeeper, Esther Hammond by name(J, and she provided, as we all supposed a large surplus of food and drinks, but Arabian locusts could not have cleared the tables with more rapidity. Between 20 and 30 dishes of cakes, bread and butter, and biscuits, and 6 gallons of tea disappeared like lightning, but everybody seemed very happy, and that was the chief thing. not mur^ tht to slsnir pn." (S. MERRIMAN). (a) This woman was a " treasure" of the old school; over and above her ordinary duties as nurse and lady's maid in succession, she was always looking after the interest of her employers, and therefore quite unlike modern servants. She was in my service for 20 years before she died in 1887, having previously lived for 34 years in my wife's family, so that her service may be put at 54 years in one family without a break. H [98] CHAPTER VIII. CANDLES, GAS, AND WATER. Old-fashioned lighting arrangements. Rushlights. Tallow Candles. Wax Candles. Various Oils. Candlesticks and Snuffers. Formation of 'the Gas Company. Its first Officials. Its remarkable prosperity. Street Lighting. Meter Lamps. Local Acts of Parliament. The Water Supply. "8#rir CanirLes nu all 0nt." (Macbeth'). MANY a long year elapsed after the introduction of coal-gas for illuminating purposes before East- Bourne obtained the advantages of a gas supply. E-ushlights, tallow candles, wax candles, sperm oil, colza oil, and rock oil came on to the stage, and, more or less, passed off it in the succession in which I have just named them. Rushlights had almost disappeared before my time, but tallow candles and wax candles, not self- snuffing, were in use long past the middle of the 19th Century. Candles of this sort required mechanical snuffers, to be operated by hand, and these were either all steel, or steel mounted with silver handles. They resembled a large pair of scissors with a sort of box on one blade which was the receptacle for the burnt portion of wick cut off. These snuffers were either stowed away through the stem of the candlestick, or, in the case of silver candlesticks, kept on a flat tray about 9 inches long. I possess 2 very well-made Sheffield plated bedroom candlesticks which probably came into East- Bourne about 1810, but unfortunately the snuffers belonging to them never reached me in the distribution of the family plate. I have heard that it was a practical joke of olden times for the boys of a family surreptitiously to put a pinch of gunpowder into the box of the snuffers and watch the effect when somebody proceeded to snuff the candle. I never tried the experiment nor saw it done. Plate XXIX. To face p. 98. Figs. 54-57. G. 4- A'. Lavis, Easl-Rflunie. and o:lios. FOUR EAST BOURNE PUBLIC MEN Mr. R. J. Graham. J.P. Mr. F. W. H. Cavendish. J.P. Mr. R Colgate. Dr G A. Jeffery. J.P. CHAP. VIIL] Gas at East-Bourne. 99 The East-Bourne Gas Company was hatched in 1851, and I have a copy of its first prospectus, and of each of its annual reports during the first years of its existence. I was in fact an original shareholder, holding 2 10 shares which number I afterwards increased to 10 shares. With sad lack of financial foresight I sold them all in 1867 when I married. The formation of the Company was the outcome of a meeting held at the Literary Institution, South Street, on February 27, 1851. The provisional Committee were Messrs. J. A. Bown, R. Colgate, R. Cooper, J. Dexter, J. Gosden, A. Hurst, G. A. Jeffery, and G. Thatcher ; The Trustees were Dr. D. J. Hall and Mr. R. B. Stone ; The Bankers, Molineux & Co. ; The Solicitor, Mr. A. Whiteman. The capital was 3000 in 10 shares. The first year's profitswere 175 ; the second, 275 ; and so they increased year by year till the date of the last balance sheet in my possession, 1868, when the profits had grown to 966 ; and the capital had been raised from 3000 to 7000. What the present profits are, are known with cheerfulness to the numerous shareholders. The starting price of the gas was 7 shillings per 1000 cubic feet. It is now less by nearly two-thirds. When I became a member of the Local Board in 1874, there were great complaints as to the inefficiency of the street lamps, which were paid for at so much per lamp, on the supposition that so many cubic feet of gas were consumed by each lamp each night. This was supposition and nothing else, as the Local Board soon discovered when they decided to measure, by means of a meter, the gas supplied : one meter to every group of lamps. This proposal was stoutly resisted by a gas director on the Local Board, Mr. Charles Simmons, a butcher, who although he had no power to vote, because he was an interested party, had great powers of tongue, but as " the proof of a pudding is in the eating," so the advocates of the meter policy were amply supported by the figures yielded by the meters ; and now all the street lamps are meter lamps. The present powers of the Gas Company are derived from the following Acts of 100 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. VIII. Parliament : 1868, 31 and 32 Viet., Chapter cxxvi. ; 1880, 43 and 44 Viet., Chapter xlvi. ; 1907, 7 Edward VIL, Chapter 5 ; 1909, 9 Edward VII, Chapter xxvii. The first-named Act incorporated the Company with powers to supply East-Bourne and Willingdon. The Act of 1880, of which I was the draftsman, enlarged the Company's Area to include Westham and Pevensey, whilst the Act of 1909 empowered the Company to take over the powers of the Hailsham Gas Company and to supply Polegate and Hailsham. The question of the Water Supply has also a history. I had always been in favour of towns controlling their water. This policy had been brought home to me by observation of things in other parts of England and by what I had seen when at the Local Government Board, so on December 7, 1874, at my instance, the Local Board passed a resolution that the time had come for the town to undertake its own water supply, and a Committee, of which I became Chairman, was appointed to collect information on the subject. We communicated through the Clerk with other towns circumstanced, more or less, as East-Bourne was, and the information we collected justified us, I thought, in recommending that steps should be taken by the Local Board to purchase the East-Bourne Waterworks. But when it came to the critical point, the Board shrank from the responsibility. The members of the Board who represented the Duke of Devonshire and the Water Company were hostile, or indifferent and unwilling to encourage the idea, and so the whole question disappeared for many years from the range of practical politics. It became a burning question however in 1895, when the water supply at Bedford Well became contaminated, and the whole town was for a time without water fit to drink. I am bound to say that the Water Company made prompt and great efforts to meet the difficulty, regardless of the cost. However the break- down gave a stimulus to the revival of the demand that the town should take the water supply into its own hands. Accordingly the Corporation went to Parliament in the Session of 1897, for a Bill for the purpose, but CHAP. VIII.] Water Supply. 101 failed to obtain it. This result is perhaps not to be wondered at on several grounds, however much it may be regretted. The situation in 1897 was vastly different from that in 1874. The capital of the Company had perforce been enormously increased in the interval, and I believe, now amounts to more than -i- a million ; and with the great increase of capital expenditure which had come about in the interval for necessary (or unnecessary) public works and " improvements," it was an arguable question whether the town could have conveniently borne the burden of taking upon its shoulders the water supply. The opening of the Company's new works at Friston, took the shape of ceremonial turning on of the water into the Warren Hill reservoir by the Duke of Devonshire on August 6, 1897, and was celebrated by a luncheon given by the Mayor at the Queen's Hotel, at which I was present. The following statement of the Water Company's Acts of Parliament now in force may be useful for reference : 1859, Chapter xcix. ; 1875, Chapter xxx. ; 1881, Chapter 1. ; 1889, Chapter Ixxvii. ; 1896, Chapter clxxxvii. ; 1897, Chapter cxxiv. Hailsham had a Water Act of its own : 1885, Chapter xcvii. " uot far out repulse, f0reg0 le purpose gou res-olfaea t0 effect." (King John}. [102] CHAPTER IX. LAW, POLICE, MEDICAL. Police arrangements in 1851. Names of the Magistrates. Major N. Willard. Mr. R. J. Graham. Magistrates' Clerks. Where Sittings were held. The status of a Mayor. The first Borough Bench. Anecdote of a Golf Player. High Constables and Parish Constables. Modern Police. Local Law Suits. Celebrated Crimes. Crime rare in East-Bourne. Local Medical Men. Formerly few in number. Dr. D. J. Hall. Mr. R. Colgate. Dr. G. A. Jeffery. 44 Wit Jgzbt strict statutes, anfrntosi Biting lafos." '-(Measure for Measure}. 41 Wilgo to Irintsflf is gafo nxr gafo ran m& ; ffenos no gafo, anir is a $ing inoteir." (G. CHAPMAN, 1557 1634). 's lot is not a &agg on* ; THE circumstances covered by such a composite title as this will vary much, comparing one epoch with another, so I must try and fix my facts as nearly as may be to a definite date which shall be more exactly than usual, my general date of 1851. There was then not much Law in East-Bourne ; no Police, and I think only 3 doctors. Law was administered by some County Magistrates whose formal sittings were held at Hailsham. The Magistrates residing in East-Bourne were Major Nicholas Willard, his brother Captain L. K. Willard, Sir W. Domville, Bart., Mr. J. D. Gilbert, Mr. (afterwards Lord) R. Cavendish, and Mr. John Graham. Sir W. Domville's son, Mr. James Graham Domville, was also at some or other time appointed a Magistrate, and as was also Mr. Graham's eldest son, Mr. Reginald J. Graham. Until his death in 1852 Major Willard was in modern vulgar language " the Boss of the Show," ruling the parish with a rod of iron, except so far as he was controlled by the Chairman of the Petty Sessional Division, Mr. G. Darby, who presided at Hailsham. The death of " Major Nick " left the field open to younger men. For a long CHAP. IX.] Magistrates. 103 number of years the burden of magisterial work fell to Mr. R. J. Graham. It gradually became a grievous burden because owing to Mr. F. H. Gell, the Clerk of the Magistrates, residing at Lewes (as did his son, Inigo Gell, after him) Graham had to be, to a large extent, J.P. and Clerk in one. I often think that if Radical orators who scowl at the " great unpaid " had known as much as I did of the home magisterial life of my friend Graham they would (if honest men) abate some of their gibes. Captain L. K. Willard would have been a useful man in these days of motor drivers who rush recklessly through the streets. He laid down the following axiom for the guidance of Mr. R. J. Graham as a Magistrate : " You have now become one of our Body. Always bear in mind that we belong to a Penal Bench ours is a Penal Bench. It is my plan always to give the whole dose. I'll be bound to say they won't forget it in a hurry. Whenever anyone is brought before you, always give him the full dose, and nothing but the dose." It was not till after 1851 that there were any formal meetings of Magistrates in an open Court at East-Bourne. Every case which could not be dealt with by Magistrates sitting at home singly in their armchairs, or by 2 of them together at the Workhouse [!] or at the private house in South Street of their Clerk (Mr. Gell) when in residence, had to be sent to Hailsham where there was, as there still is, a fortnightly Sitting on Wednesdays. This necessity was eventually found intolerable, and when the Vestry Room in Grove Road was built at a cost of 270, Sittings there on Mondays were instituted, preparatory, it might be, to remand to Hailsham. It was not until as late as 1875 that East-Bourne had a resident Magistrates' Clerk in the person of Mr. J. G. Langham. Up to then the system of a Clerk at Lewes had continued, except that some short time before 1875 a deputy of the Lewes Chief had been sent to reside at East-Bourne, but this worked badly. From 1875 East-Bourne cases were all taken at the East-Bourne Bench ; and Hailsham Sittings for East-Bourne cases virtually ceased. 104 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IX. When the town received its Charter of Incorporation in 1883 the question came up for discussion whether it should ask for a separate Bench of Magistrates and its concomitant a separate Police Force. For the moment the matter was resolved in the negative, and the town left for magisterial and Police purposes under the jurisdiction of the County. This continued for several years. Meanwhile the town continued to grow, and some people gifted with powers of research came to the conclusion that justice would be more conveniently administered and the cost of the Police, as charged by the County, would be lessened if the Borough were emancipated from the County in respect of these matters. Thus it came about that a Borough Bench was set up and a Borough Police Force likewise. The following were the names given in the first Commission issued by the Crown : A. Mayhewe E. L. Beckwith Major H. P. Molineux G. A. Wallis Sir A. Dent G. Boulton H. W. Keay Col. C. J. 0. FitzGerald J. C. Foran R. C. Lambert G. F. Chambers E. K. Rodwell, Q.C. W. L. Wallis Col. E. W. Shaw H. D. Farnell N. Strange I should like to say in regard to myself that my name was included without my knowledge, and without my consent being asked. Least of all did I take any steps to bring about the honour. Several years elapsed before I qualified by taking the Oath, and as later additions made the Bench not only a numerous but also a strong one, I have never taken a very prominent part in the work, rather reserving myself for seasons of the year and days of the week when a scarcity of Justices might be expected. This does some- times happen. I remember once hearing of a certain Thursday when the Police had an important case to submit to the Bench, one which under a certain Statute required 2 Magistrates, whilst one only was in attendance. CHAP. IX.] East-Bourne Police. 105 The one suggested to the Superintendent of Police that he should go and fetch Mr. , who lived only about 200 yards off, whereupon the said Superintendent spoke thus : " No, sir ; I think I must not do that. Thursday is Mr. 's golf day, and he told me I was never to disturb him with any Police business on that day." When the Corporatioo came into existence a question arose as to the status and powers of the Mayor in connection with magisterial work. " The Municipal Corporations Act, 1882 " describes the status of Mayors in terms somewhat obscure, and seems to imply that the Mayor should preside at all Sittings of Magistrates in his Borough, even though they were County Magistrates and there was no Borough Bench. Mr. G. A. Wallis, the first Mayor, claimed, more suo, the right to magnify his office by presiding over the County Magistrates sitting at East-Bourne. The claim was resisted, but in very benign terms, by Mr. R. J. Graham (the County Chairman) and, after an appeal to the Home Secretary who himself took the opinion of the Law Officers of the Crown, Mr. Wallis abandoned his assumption of office and sat during his year of office as simply a Magistrate amongst other Magistrates. When the Borough Bench was established the County Magistrates, resident in the town, became automatically members of it, and the two sets of men have worked together in perfect harmony ever since, though two or three of the older County Magistrates withdrew from participation in what they regarded as an infra dig alliance. Now a word as to the Police. In my early days East-Bourne had no Police. The nearest Policeman was stationed at Pevensey. East-Bourne was guarded by a High Constable and a Parish Constable. I cannot remember anything ever done by the High Constable, except a notice painted up warning everybody not to do something though I forget what that something was. I remember, however, that the notice was signed " Edgar Baker, High Constable." Mr. Baker carried on the trade represented by his name. My first remembrance of him was seeing him conveyed home in a van of his 106 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IX. own with a broken leg which my father was invited to assist in mending. His business passed to his son, and now flourishes in the hands of his grandson. I went to the shop as recently as January 1910 to purchase one of the " cheap Liberal loaves " which the Liberal Party said were on sale, but for some reason, which the shopman could not explain, the purchase-money was \d. more than had been charged to me elsewhere by a Tory baker 2 years previously. The Parish Constable of 1851 was one Joe Carter who, under his official name, was dressed as a Beadle with cocked hat and cloak, but eventually he was advanced to the ordinary costume of the Policeman of the period, starting with a chimney-pot hat at his top and so downwards to his boots. Carter was kept on in office, I think, during the term of his natural life, but it soon became necessary, as the town grew, for representatives of the Chief Constable of the County at Lewes to enter into possession. For their use residential quarters, and a couple of cells, were built in Grove Road adjacent to the Vestry Room which was used as a Police Court up till the opening of the Town Hall. The following figures regarding the present (1910) Police Force may be presented as a contrast to the times of Joe Carter and the one County Constable at Pevensey : 1 Chief Constable, 10 Sergeants, 5 Inspectors, 60 Constables, making a total of 77 men. During the Fenian scare of 1867 Special Constables were sworn in at East-Bourne in consequence of a Notice from the Home Office that a Fenian landing at East- Bourne had been heard of as in contemplation but nothing happened. I served as a " Special " on that occasion at Bromley in Kent for 3 months. Law and Police from the standpoint of the newspaper reporter have through the years which I can remember always made a very poor show so far as incidents connected with East-Bourne are concerned. The most important local law-suit was one between the Gilbert CHAP. IX.] Legal Proceedings. 107 Trustees and the Duke of Devonshire as to the ownership of a strip of land by the side of the road from East-Bourne to Pevensey, as to whether it was, or was not, part of the waste lands of the Manor of East-Bourne. This was tried at the Summer Assizes at Lewes on July 22, 1864. The result was a compromise, each party agreeing to convey to the other, strips of land for the mutual advantage of each other. It was a long time after the place began to grow that we obtained County Court facilities but as the result of an agitation, in which I took an active part,, the first visit of a County Court Judge took place on April 4, 1878 ; but the Sittings were treated as off-shoots of the Lewes Sittings, and Mr. J. H. C. Coles, appointed Registrar, was treated as a Deputy of the Lewes Registrar rather than as an independent official. Nor has East-Bourne ever occupied any prominent position in the annals of crime. There was an important burglary at The Gore in July 1845, which was never brought home to the thieves by legal proof owing, I used to hear, to the crass stupidity of the Police who were brought into the case, and this, though traces were obtained through anonymous letters which led to the intervention of Sir J. Graham, the Home Secretary, and. also of the Postmaster-General, being sought and obtained. Two of the certain culprits as accessories were a footman named J D and a coachman named B , both in the employ of my grandmother- Mrs. Brodie, and no greater punishment of them was possible than simple dismissal. D set up as a lodging-house keeper in London and B became a railway porter at Hastings. The plunder took the shape of an extensive raid of silver spoons and forks. These were replaced by new ones, and some of the new ones- and of those not stolen are now in my possession. There is little to distinguish the one from the other except the hall-mark which is the letter ;$t, indicating the date of 1847, the larger part of the Brodie plate being marked G which means 1802, the year of my East-Bourne- grandfather's marriage. 108 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IX. In 1860 there occurred a remarkable crime which caused a great sensation in the South of England. On the Grand Parade there lived a schoolmaster named H . He was a clever, interesting, scientific man. His pupils were not numerous ; only I think about 6 in number, but select. He was a great disciplinarian, his principles of discipline being not of the ordinary sort. Though a man of, I suppose, 50 years of age then, he had a young wife to whom he extended his principles of discipline which in these days would have secured for her judicial separations many times over. One of his boys was named Reginald Canceller, the son of an Official of the Court of Chancery. Administering corporal punishment to this boy he (to cut a long story short) beat him to death. H laid out the poor boy's body himself on his bed, concealing the effects of the castigation by putting kid gloves on the boy's hands. An inquest was held and the Jury displayed the usual limited amount of insight common to Coroner's Juries, and recorded a verdict of " Death from natural causes." This sham finished, the body was removed to London by the family for burial. Owing to the gossip of two maidservants, further inquiries were made, and ultimately at the Sussex Assizes held on July 23, 1863, before Sir A. J. Cockburn, C.J., II received a sentence of 4 years' penal servitude for manslaughter. Ere he came out of prison, his wife was sent away from Sussex to commence housekeeping under an assumed name ; and various East-Bourne people subscribed to help her. H himself, nothing abashed at the fact that he had been boarded and lodged for 4 years at the expense of Her Majesty, came back and settled in Sussex in a perfectly genial frame of mind. I sat through the whole of the trial, and I need hardly add that several other spectators took tickets from East- Bourne with the same object in view. It was a brother of Mrs. H , who was nearly frozen to death under Beachy Head as related in another chapter. Before my time I do not think that the parish of CHAP. IX.] Medical Practitioners. 109 East-Bourne often appeared in Courts of Law on its own, account. Nevertheless, in 1803 its inhabitants were cited into the Court of King's Bench, and thereupon it was determined that a foreigner might under old law gain a settlement in England by occupying a 15L tenement for 40 days. Lord Ellenborough (one of whose sons, by the way, the Hon. H. S. Law, was a visitor to- our house in 1879), in his judgment laid down the following proposition : " The law of humanity, which is anterior to all positive laws, obliges us to afford them [foreigners] relief to save them from starving." This case of Rex v. East-Bourne, which is reported in 4 East, 103, settled therefore a point of law of which East- Bourners maybe proud from a philanthropic point of view. East-Bourne has always been notoriously such a healthy place, that excepting during the one year of 1863 when the town was devastated by scarlet fever, it has not been a very happy hunting-ground for doctors. In 1851 I think there were only three. Nor do I remember any great doctors except one as visitors to East-Bourne. The one was Sir James Ranald Martin, of Indian fame, who with his wife and family were often here in the " Fifties." Sir William Broadbent had a patient here at a very much later period, and I was much amused one day when standing on the East-Bourne platform. A lady came up to me and in the most effusive dulcet tones said " Sir William Broadbent, I think." I was obliged, of course, to decline with regret the honour. When Sir William's Life was published with his portrait in it, I tried to trace some resemblance between his face and mine, but utterly failed. So I cannot explain the lady's error of judgment. Dr. Hall had been a surgeon in the Royal Navy, and one of the ships in which he had served had been commanded by the 19th Earl of Shrewsbury, who was described as one of the greatest tyrants that ever trod the quarter-deck. I only knew him by sight as a member of my London club. In 1833, there was a great battle between the Coastguard (often called in those days Blockade men or 110 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. IX. Preventive men) and smugglers, in which, there was loss of life. The facts of the case were, I believe, somewhat as follows : The smugglers, having killed the chief boatman of the Blockade Service, formed two lines on each side till their cargo was " run." They then left, not, however, without several of their party receiving wounds. All escaped capture. Dr. Hall was at East-Bourne at that time, and was called upon to attend the wounded. He gave me on one occasion, sitting over the fire many years afterwards, a graphic account of the battle, though I am not quite sure at this distance of time that he was actually present when the fight was going on. He left the Royal Navy shortly after this event and practised at East-Bourne until 1857, when he retired into private life, or to be more exact, resumed public life by becoming surgeon of the Sussex Artillery Militia. Before his time the medical profession was repre- sented in East-Bourne by Dr. Ranking, who lived in a picturesque house in South Street ; and by 2 or 3 other men whose names have not come down to me. The first in point of date, of what I may call the modern doctors was Mr. R. Colgate, who began work in 1847. He was followed in 1849 by Dr. G. A. Jeffery, and both continued in practice for a long number of years. Dr. Jeffery, I am glad to say, is still alive. Mr. Colgate's practice passed to his well-known son, Dr. H. Colgate. Apart from his medical duties, Dr. Jeffery has performed a large amount of public work as Chairman of the Gas Company ; as Chairman of the Local Board from 1878 up nearly to the replacement of the Board by the Town Council in 1883 : and as a Guardian, and J.P., and County Councillor. Dr. Bransby Roberts came to East-Bourne in 1857, but has retired from prac- tice, Bransby Cooper, the surgeon, was his godfather, and another famous surgeon, Sir Astley Cooper was godfather to another brother. mtbitint lift raajr bt giolongtb, pi toai|r foill st'm fyt 0ri0r 100." (Cymleline). t heat ^gsirians ar.e gr. gict, gr. <$uiei, a0 gr. Ujfrrrgrosn." (ANON.). Plate XXX. To face p. in. Fig. 58. SCREEN PLANNED AND EXECUTED BY G F. CHAMBERS [Ill] CHAPTER X. LITERATURE, SCIENCE AND ART. Local Newspapers. Old East-Bourne Guides. Local Authors. R. M. Caldecott. W. Brodie. Lady Catherine Long. Other Local Authors. Distinguished Visitors. Astronomical Observatories. Natural History Society. Prominent Members of the Society. Loan Exhibitions. Old Maps of the Parish. Professor Huxley. The Herschel Family. /. H. Mortimer, Shakespearian and other Readings. Arts and Industries Society. is a farg fair Minify, but a btt% Qoolr foalMujj stick." (C. LAMB.) truje ajcmux Mtjjumt f^Rgiim.'' (C. KTNGSLEY.) IT seems to be necessary to draw somewhat on one's imagination for one's facts to eke out a Chapter under the above title, the words of which flow with delightful grace and euphony. However, I will do my best to supply a few facts. Literature centres round newspapers, actual (which .are few in number) and defunct (which have been numerous). The oldest Sussex newspaper is the Sussex Advertiser, which dates from 1745. Its Whig politics prompted in 1833, the starting of the Sussex Agricultural Express in the interests of the Tory party. The oldest East-Bourne paper is the Chronicle (1856), the Gazette coming next (1859). Other papers have been born and have died in East-Bourne. I remember the following titles : Eastbourne Express (1863) ; Eastbourne Standard (1868) ; Sussex Times (1874) ; Eastbourne Courier (1877) ; Eastbourne Observer (?date) ; Eastbourne Review (1885?); Eastbourne Standard (2nd creation, ? date) ; Eastbourne Times (? date) ; Scorpion. The last-named was a satirical sheet edited (I believe) by the author of What will they do with him, mentioned in a previous Chapter. 112 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. X. The earliest book due to an East-Bourne Author is, I suppose, the Guide, East-Bourne and its Environs, of which the first edition is dated 1787, several later editions being known. The author was one J. Royer. Theodore Hook was a visitor to East-Bourne about 1830, and his Jack Brag includes divers references to the place. I possess an interesting (and useful) reminis- cence of him in the shape of his editorial writing desk table, used when Editor of the scurrilous John Bull ; and 3 nests of drawers, which, in his time, stood for the modern Editor's " Pigeon-holes." The earliest book of any size or general importance, written in East-Bourne, would be Mr. R. M. Caldecott's Life of Baber, mentioned in Chapter III. (ante.) In 1845, my uncle, Mr. Walter Brodie, published a book on The State of New Zealand, followed in 1851 by Pitcairn's Island and the Islanders. In 1851, an authoress of some repute, Lady Catherine Long, resided at The Grove, with her husband Mr. Henry Lawes Long, a son, and several daughters. The son was a chum of mine, and we practised chemical experiments together. Lady Catherine's books included novels and others more serious. Amongst the former were Sir Roland Ashton and The First Lieutenant's Story ; and amongst the latter, Heavenly Thoughts for Morning Hours. The preface to the last-named is dated from " East-Bourne, December 31, 1850." The following are the names of some books of later date which may be credited to East-Bourne : East- bourne as a Resort for Invalids, by Drs. Abbotts Smith and Hayman (1861) ; Flora of Eastbourne, by F. C. S. Roper, F.L.S. (1875) ; Eastbourne as a Residence for Invalids and Winter Resort, by G.- Moseley, F.R.C.S. (1882) ; Eastbourne as a Winter Resort, by H. D. Ellis, M.D. (1882). I have written several books, of which my Handbook for East-Bourne, Handbook of Astronomy, and several small books on Astronomy, and Digest of the Law relating to Public Health, are, I suppose, the best known. The first-named passed through 25 editions and brought CHAP. X.] Local Literature. 113 me upwards of 500 in clear profits, before I sold it to Farncornbe & Co. Of my various astronomical books, upwards of 90,000 copies have been sold. My various Law Books make up a total of about 10,000 copies between them. The lady who wrote under the name of " Edna Lyall," must be regarded as the most brilliantly success- ful writer connected with East-Bourne, where she lived for many years. No other books prior to 1901 are known to me which can be said to owe their origin to East-Bourne. The 2 houses which formerly existed on the cliff, to the E. of the Wish Tower, seem to have been places of great attraction to literary people. Mount Pleasant which stood near the site of the Cavendish Hotel, had Tennyson for a lodger in 1845. I knew his brother Frederick Tennyson, who stayed at East-Bourne much later ; he had been a Somersetshire acquaintance of my wife's. Cliff Cottage had a succession of occupants with names which have had a hold over English thought, including Macready, Jenny Lind, and J. H. Bailey. Bailey was often known as " Butterfly Bailey " from being the author of "I'd be a butterfly," a song which had a great rage half-a- century ago. Mr. Graham added to this list " Mr. Edge worth, the brother of the Authoress," but I cannot help feeling that he confused the name of " Edgeworth with " Edgell." I distinctly remember a Mr. and Mrs. Wyatt Edgell there about 1851. I may fairly include under the head of " Literature," a very pleasant semi-public luncheon at which I was present and made a speech, on June 17, 1899. The assembly was convened to celebrate the opening of the new buildings in South Street, erected by Farncombe & Co. for their newspaper the East-Bourne Chronicle, which, to compare small (= local) things with great (= Metropolitan) things, is the " oldest newspaper in the world " and has the " largest circulation in the world." I can speak from personal knowledge as to the former being a figurative fact ; and I can guess the latter. It cannot be said that either Science or Art ever 114 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. X. derived much, benefit from any work done in East-Bourne. My uncle Mr. F. Brodie, had an observatory at The Gore, with a good telescope in it, a 6-inch refractor, from 1854 to 1858, but he did not make much use of it. He used colza oil for the lamps of the observatory, and constantly found the top of the small oil can he used for filling his lamps lying loose by the side of the can. His theory was, that the mice pushed the top off, and lowered their tails into the oil and sucked the oil from their tails ! I had an observatory in the tower of my house from 1876 to 1907, and a 6-inch achromatic refractor in it with which I did a certain amount of work, and to see and benefit by which, I am glad to say, visitors often came. In connection, in a certain sense, with my astro- nomical work at East-Bourne, I may here introduce a strange instance of mental imbecility, as I regarded it at the time. On September 18, 1879, I was one of a party of 60 who agreed to join in a picnic tea at Wannock. Most of the company, including myself, went by train to Polegate and walked thence. On emerging from the station, a very old friend Mrs. said to me, " My friend Mr. is anxious to make your acquaintance," I said " All right ; introduce him to me " which was done. We walked to Wannock together and talked about various things, and then he mingled with the 60 and I never spoke to him again. Some weeks later Mrs. said to me, " My friend Mr. was very dis- appointed with you : you talked with him for ^ an hour and never once mentioned the subject of Astronomy, which was the one subject on which he wished to hear you speak." I said " What a fool the man was : why did he not say he wished to talk Astronomy?" I hold that a person who has a hobby has no right to thrust his hobby into conversation with strangers, unless specifically asked to do so. The East-Bourne Natural History Society has always been the chief scientific centre in the town, and a vast amount of valuable information has been gathered by its members, especially in its earlier days. Founded CHAP. X.] Natural History Society. 115 in 1867, its publications contain many interesting papers on Botany, Geology, and sea creatures, due to the zeal and energy of members taking up diverse fields of research. Amongst the most industrious of its earlier members may be named the Rev. A. K. Cherrill, M.A., Miss W. L. Hall, Miss Hood, Mr. C. J. Midler, Mr. F. C. S. Roper, F.L.S., and Miss A. Woodhouse as representing Botany, the Rev. E. S. Dewick, Dr. 0. Ward, as representing Zoology, whilst General Physical Science found exponents in Mr. T. Ryle, F.R.A.S., the Rev. H. E. Maddock, and, at a later epoch, myself. My first appearance on the stage was on December 18, 1874, when I gave an address entitled " Astronomical Topics." I was elected President for the year 1876-77, and took advantage of my official position to invite all the members to a Conversazione and Loan Exhibition at my house, January 24, 25, and 26, 1877, which proved a very successful show. I had no idea that so many houses in East-Bourne contained so many objects of scientific, artistic, and literary interest. I invited the members to repeat the experiment, which they did on January 8 and 9, 1879, with even more successful results. I remember in particular the large number of exhibits obtained from the loot of the Summer Palace at Pekin in 1860. Amongst the local objects of interest gathered together at one of the above-named Loan Exhibitions, were 2 old maps of East-Bourne exhibited on behalf of the Duke of Devonshire which had a curious history. They had been amongst the household effects which came into the possession of the executors of my grand- mother, Mrs. Brodie, after her death in 1864, and had been stowed away at The Gore, her house in the Old Town, for many years, probably 50 at the least. From my recollection of them, I have no doubt that they were Parish property, and in the absence of any local museum or other fit place of deposit, I urged that they should be sent to the Sussex Archaeological Society. The executors however thought that the Duke of Devonshire had the first claim to them (though he made no claim), and accordingly they were sent to him. 116 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. X. When my Loan Exhibition was being got ready, I applied to the Duke's then local agent, the late Mr. R. Insoll, for the loan of the maps for exhibition. He sent them and in due course they were returned to him, but since that time, now more than 30 years ago, I have lost all trace of them, notwithstanding that search was made for them some years ago by the late Duke's agent, Mr. J. P. Cockerell, both at Compton Place and at the Estate Office in London. My reason for having moved in the matter, and for being desirous still of having the maps found, is the intrinsic interest of both of them as illustrating the changes which have taken place during the last 3J- centuries, and one century respectively. My recollection of the older map, which was on vellum or parchment, is that it bore some such date as 1530, and showed the parish as divided into houses and lands and farms at the time. Though kept rolled up, it was in a very good state of preservation, and would readily have lent itself to reproduction by photo-lithography. The more modern map bore the date of 1816 and the name of " William Figg, Lewes," as Surveyor. I imagine that it had been made for Tithe purposes from the nature of the details presented by it. What, to the best of my belief, is a copy of it, but not the original, now hangs in the Hall of the Vicarage, but Canon Goodwyn is unable to throw any light upon its history. My recollection of the original map is, that it was coloured with great artistic care, and that the map in Canon Goodwyn's possession is a less artistically finished copy of it. As a matter of Natural History, the record of which, should not, I think, be lost, I may mention as con- veniently here as anywhere else, that the greater part of the Sussex Birds now at the Public Library and Museum were collected more than half-a-century ago, by one Vidler, son of a past Surveyor of the Pevensey Levels. Vidler sold many of them to a chemist in the town named Dutton. Dr. Jeffery purchased some from Dutton and some from Vidler ; and when he left the town to CHAP. X.] Scientific Reminiscences. 117 live at Hailsham, they were most of them sold by auction, and bought for the Museum, Dr. Jeffery retaining only a few which he still has at his house, Carter s Corner. Amongst them are 2 of importance ; a golden eagle (Aquila Ohrysaetos), and a white-tailed or sea eagle (Halietus Albicilla), both shot near Beachy Head. A chapter on Science at East-Bourne would not be complete without mention of the fact that in the " Nineties," Professor T. H. Huxley resided at Meads for some years. His principles were so distasteful to me that I never sought his acquaintance, and had no nearer personal knowledge of him than that derived from sitting opposite to him or near him in a railway carriage, and from having heard him lecture at the Royal Institution. In 1877, when preparing for press a new edition of my Handbook of Astronomy, I found it necessary to unearth something connected with the late Sir John Herschel, so I wrote to his widow, Lady Herschel, to ask what I wanted to know. Instead of answering my question, she very kindly said " Come and see for your- self," so on January 25, 1877, 1 found myself dining and sleeping at Gollingwood, near Hawkhurst, just over the Sussex border in Kent. It was a peculiarly interesting visit, not only from the kind and friendly reception which I met with from Lady Herschel and her daughters, and from the fact that I was able to do the work and find the references which I wanted, but from what I saw. Sir John's study, a spacious airy room with a large library table in the centre, had been left untouched as he himself had used it, and left it ; so that, in other words, the whole contents of the room were arranged in a state of order and classification which greatly facilitated the work of a stranger in hunting up any particular branch of Astronomy. One of the 2 daughters I then met was Lady Gordon, now the widow of General the Hon. Sir A. Hamilton-Gordon, and her experiences as the wife of a distinguished soldier who had served in foreign parts, was itself something to listen to. After Lady Herschel's death, Collingwood was sold, 118 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. X. and Sir John's family joined in buying back the house at Slough, where their grandfather Sir William Herschel, had made many of his celebrated observations. That house and its varied contents I had also the pleasure of visiting on December 4, 1891, being taken there by Lord Edward Churchill, when staying with him at Windsor. By the way, that Windsor visit obtained for my wife and myself access to another " sight " not open to the public, Queen Victoria's collection of miniatures, then in the custody of Mr. (afterwards Sir Richard) Holmes. These were very numerous and many of them historic as well as beautiful. An episode of a somewhat romantic character con- nected with my pursuit of Astronomy at East-Bourne, may be here mentioned. In 1 899, 1 undertook 011 behalf of the British Astronomical Association to assist in organising an expedition to Spain and Portugal to observe the total eclipse of the Sun of May 28, 1900 ; and part of my work was to collect information likely to "be useful to members travelling to those countries. My name in this connection seems to have got into the newspapers, for in September 1899, I received a letter signed " E. Main," giving me some useful information, and a copy of a book entitled The Cities and Sights of Spain, with the endorsement " With the Author's Compliments." As the letter was dated from Brighton, I thought I could not do better than enter into communi- cation with the writer. The author of the book turned out to be an authoress ; and she kindly invited me to call upon her at the house of her mother, Lady Hawkins- Whitshed. This I did, and it was the first of a long series of delightful visits to Somerby House, Brighton. In due course, I learnt that Lady Hawkins-Whitened had a Barrister husband named Hughes, always in London on the mid-week days on which my visits to Brighton always took place. I generally found in the house a gentleman named Burnaby. In process of time, Mrs. Main, who when I first knew her was a widow, informed me that she had married again, and had become Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond. This was the extent of my knowledge CHAP. X.] A Romantic Incident. 119 until the month of March 1910, when I was told by one of my daughters that they had brought home from the circulating library a book which they thought I might like to look at, the Life of Colonel Burnaby of Khiva fame. Of course, I jumped at the idea of reading a book about a man who was so well-known to me by name as alike a great political and a great military hero. Judge of my amazement, when I discovered half-way through the book, that my friend, " E. Main," later Mrs. Le Blond, was no other than the widow of the great Colonel Fred Burnaby ; that the Brighton Mr. Burnaby was the Colonel's son ; and that the London Barrister " named Hughes," who I had known for 2 or 3 years as the able chief agent of the Conservative party in London had been Col. Burnaby's private secretary, and was the husband of my kind hostess Lady Hawkins-Whitshed, now, alas gone from this world. A more remarkable string of romantic facts I have seldom been mixed up with. Art at East-Bourne has never been represented except by John Hamilton Mortimer, an 18th century painter, some of whose works appear at South Kensington. I knew however, several members of his family bearing the same surname, some of whom had property in the town till quite recently, though I fancy nearly all of it has now passed into other hands. The last permanent resident was an old Miss Mortimer, who lived and died in a house known as No. 3 The Terrace. The names of Mortimer and Lanyon will be found on mural tablets in the S.W. aisle of the Parish Church. Both families were friends of my family, and the latest and best known members were Sir Charles Lanyon, M.P. for Belfast (1866-68), and his son Sir Owen Lanyon, K.C.M.G., an African Governor a few years ago. This chapter may be regarded as a suitable resting place for the record of some social occupations of an intellectual character which during many years onwards from 1878, took the fancy of a considerable number of our friends. I am alluding to Readings of Shakespearian and French and German Plays. 1 think that the first 120 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. X. in point of date was a Shakespearian Reading at St. Saviour's Vicarage, on April 29, 1878, and this was followed in various years up to 1902 by other Readings of the like sort. Besides a dozen or more which we ourselves had at Northfield Grange, I find in my diaries mention of quite another dozen at the houses of friends. The French Readings, conducted on similar lines, included the chief of Moliere's plays, and some isolated ones by Delavigne, Labiche and Meilhac, together with a French version of the Merchant of Venice. The German plays were 2 of Lessing's, and one of Schiller's. Besides the foregoing, our list included Sheridan's Rivals and Scott's Lay of the Last Minstrel and Marmlon. A tragic incident attaches in a way to the Scotch Readings. Our warmest supporters of them were a Scotch family of the name of Morison. Mrs. Morison died at East- Bourne in 1906 as the result of an accident caused by some selfish and thoughtless smoker who had thrown clown on the Grand Parade an unextinguished lucifer match. This set fire to her clothes : she discovered the fact too late, and died of the injuries and shock. Another Scotch helper who assisted us was the Earl of Mar, the subject of the long and famous Scotch peerage controversy. He and Lady Mar were much at East-Bourne during 1881. Lady Mar was deeply interested in her husband's wrongs, and spent much time in teaching me to understand the matter, which eventually I think I did. Several of the above-named Readings at our house were for charity purposes, including the Princess Alice Hospital and the Poor of Christ Church. From first to last the total of our takings at Northfield Grange for charity purposes amounted to nearly or quite 100. My connection with that very useful undertaking, the " Arts and Industries Society " has been so slight, that I am hardly justified in dwelling upon it. I did however in one year (1901, March 20) " open " it, and make the customary oration ; whilst in another year I exhibited 2 folding screens made, or at least covered, by myself. I calculated that I pasted on to the 12 sides of CHAP. X.] A Picturesque Screen. 121 the folding leaves, no fewer than 3000 scraps, pictures, photographs, labels, cards, stamps, monograms, &c., &c. The task occupied me for many wet and other days during 1891-2. I only mention it to show how easy it is to obtain useful and picturesque articles of furniture for draughty rooms at a very trifling expense in money. My reason for giving the silhouette of myself (Plate II.) is not vanity, but to place on record a lost art, as I suppose it must now be called. I do not remember for certain where the original was done, but I rather think it may have been at the Pantheon Bazaar in Oxford Street (now Gilbey's wine shop). It is long since I met with an " Artist " who cut such figures. The last I remember was on the old Chain Pier at Brighton, washed away in a storm on December 5, 1896. mabts but an from paint t0 pint." (TENNYSON). arks 0f J^rt ; mnster-stwfcjc is ^aluw's part." (R. W. EMERSON). Fig. 59. THE OBSERVATORY AT NORTHFIELD GRANGE. [122] CHAPTER XL RAILWAYS AND TRAVELLING. Travelling to East-Bourne in the "Forties." The last Coach Opening of the Railway to Lewes. To Hastings. To East- Bourne and Hailsham Raihuay Stations. The Market. Proposed Railway from Battle. Proposed Railways from London by Lewes and Brighton and their effect on East- Bourne. New lines in the year 1864. The " Ouse Valley " Line. The " Surrey and Sussex " Line. The " Tunbridge Wells and East-Bourne " Line. Obstructive policy of the Brighton Company. Mr. ]. P. Knight. The Willingdon Spur Line. Mr. G. A. Wallis as a Railway Promoter. Proposed Line to Birling Gap and Seaford. Railway Accidents. In Clayton Tunnel, 1861. At May field, 1897. Through Trains from the North of England. Bournemouth and Through Trains. History of their introduction into East-Bourne. The proposed Tramway to Pevensey. A Sensational Train. " Coarlr after (Slaadr." (Two Gentlemen of Verona.} " Wfya |rat|r brought i|ris fatal n0uu in? " (Titu* Andronicus.) not until i|r signal." (Juliu* Ccesar.} MY first visit to East-Bourne as a tourist was when I was 6 months old, but ray personal remem- brance of things naturally begins at a somewhat later date, namely at a time when the railway being opened only from London as far as Lewes, the remainder of the journey had to be performed by Coach. The last driver of the London and East-Bourne Coach was a man named Samuel Rason( a -) The journey of the through coach before any railways, began at the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, at 8.30 a.m., and ended at the New Inn, South Street, at 6.0 p.m. The fares were outside 16s., inside 21s. Up journeys on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays ; Down journeys on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Halt at Godstone for dinner. (a) Mr. Graham says that he was only the last driver but one, and that there was one after him. I cannot be sure on the point. CHAP. XI.] The Opening of the Railway. 123- As the railway from Lewes through Polegate to Hastings was opened in 1847, the coach drive which I remember (from East-Bourne to Lewes), was probably a year earlier, because I think it was in the spring of 1846 that my grandmother was in London for the Season, and took me with her down to East-Bourne in her own carriage. She had bought in that year an additional half acre of land to enlarge The Gore lawn, and had had constructed in it an ornamental fish pond. At a later date, I developed piscatorial tastes, and acquiring rod and line considered that catching gold and silver fish would be great fun ; but that particular developement of my ambition was disapproved of by the Authorities, and I was subjected to a severe reprimand, ending probably in being sent to bed. Railways of course have revolutionised the horse and carriage traffic of the country. Up to the middle of the 19th Century, most people of all ranks knew some- thing about horses, and distances in miles were not thought much of. For instance on the wedding day of my parents in 1840, something was wanted from Lewes- in the morning, and I do not suppose that anything was thought of sending a horse and cart of some sort from East-Bourne to Lewes to fetch it. Amongst the vehicles whose names are probably little known to the present generation, and their shapes still less, are a chariot, clarence, barouche, britzska, gig, stanhope, tilbury and others. Chariot was pronounced by old-fashioned people as Charrot (the late Mr. F. J. Howard always so pro- nounced it). It was a sort of glorified Sedan chair with seats for only 2 persons inside, hung on C springs and drawn by 2 horses driven by a postillion. The seat in front, usually known as the box-seat, was originally literally only a box containing the wearing apparel of the travellers inside. It was fashioned as a seat for a driver when the horses were not driven by a postillion. Sometimes a chariot contained a third seat for a child, shaped something like a milking stool. I remember once being driven thus seated in a carriage belonging to an old Aunt who was taking a drive from Worthing to 124 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XI. Bramber Castle. This was about 1846. Outside the chariot at the back, there was usually an open seat, called a " dickey " or " rumble," for a man-servant or maid-servant, or both, with space underneath for a detachable luggage box. The last inhabitant of East- Bourne to own and use a chariot was Mrs. John Willard of The Lawn, who died November 29, 1865. Yellow was rather a fashionable colour for chariots. There used to l>e a yellow chariot of ancient date at the Manor House, .and perhaps Mr. C. D. Gilbert still preserves it as a relic of olden times. The above-named Mrs. Willard, when going to dine with her brother-in-law Major Willard, whose house The Grays was no more than 200 yards away, would often travel thither in a Sedan chair, with her gardener John Rollison, and her butler John Thomas as bearers. I had this quite recently from Thomas's son. Rollison's eldest son Thomas became a gardener in Yorkshire, and his second son William, a National Schoolmaster at Uckfield. Going back to Railway matters the Branch Railways from Polegate to East-Bourne and Hailsham were not opened until May 14, 1849, and between 1846 and the opening of the branches, an Omnibus of sorts belonging to D. Burford, landlord of the Anchor, plied between Polegate and the Sea Houses at East-Bourne. The starting point for the London Coach had been the yard of the New Inn, South Street, which yard some years ago was built over when the New Inn was re-built and enlarged and re-named the New Hotel a much less interesting designation. The tree which obstructed the foothpath till quite recent years was itself a remanet of coaching days. The office for coach tickets was further down South Street. It may here be noted that the last Turnpike Trust in the neighbourhood, the Lewes and Polegate one, came to an end on November 1, 1878, more to the satisfaction of the driving public than of the ratepaying public. I was present at the opening of the Railway, and, of course, witnessed with intense interest the ceremonies which had been arranged for the occasion. The Plate XXXI. To face p. 124. Figs. 6061. OPENING OF THE EAST-BOURNE BRANCH RAILWAY, May 14, 1849. I-avis, East- Hour ne. Copyright. AN EAST-BOURNE BRANCH TRAIN OF EARLY DATE. "A Royal train, believe me." (King Henry VI] I.) CHAP. XI.] The Opening of the Railway 125 preparations were of a very complete character, and the programme lasted for fully 15 hours or more, almost from daylight till midnight. Of course, the excitement amongst the natives was very great for many of them had never travelled by train, or even seen a locomotive engine. The actual opening may be said to have taken place at about mid-day, or soon after, when a special train from Brighton brought in a number of officials of the Railway Company, and a brass band to enliven the proceedings. A luncheon took place in a large booth erected in the grounds of the Orchard Farm, the residence of Mr. Smith, Lord Burlington's steward, on or near the site of what is now Orchard Road. My father came down from London to sit at the festive table, and he wished me to accompany him, but my mother's remonstrances against my introduction into public life at the age of 7 prevailed. When the luncheon was over there were, of course, toasts and speeches ; the principal speaker being Mr. Leo Schuster, the then Deputy Chairman of the Railway Company and afterwards Chairman, who proposed the health of the Chairman of the luncheon party (Mr. Freeman Thomas, of Ratton, the grandfather of the present Lord Willing- don). The items in the programme which attracted my special attention and approval were the efforts made by certain amateur acrobats to climb a greasy pole for the sake of the leg of mutton at the top ; and the fireworks in the evening. The successful acrobat was the late Mr. William Newman who afterwards became one of the principal builders ; and whose sons carry on his business still. Amongst Newman's claims to our grateful remembrance is the fact that he undertook the duties of Schoolmaster at the first evening school ever carried on in the parish, supported by my aunt Miss Julia Brodie. The fireworks were of amateur-make, having been prepared for the occasion by two uncles of mine, Mr. F. Brodie and Dr. D. J. Hall. Those two gentlemen in their day often contributed pyrotechnic displays to enliven the public, having received their training from another amateur, Mr. Dobree, who lived 126 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XI. at Southfield Lodge, a house which I have mentioned elsewhere. So far as the Railway part of the day's ceremonial was concerned that concluded with a trip of the directors and officials to Hailsham in the afternoon. A very good account (of which I have a copy) of the whole day's proceedings appeared in the Brighton Gazette, of May 17, 1849. The railway being open from London to East-Bourne, it may be a matter of interest to inquire what the train service was like. In the early " Fifties," the official time-tables of the Brighton Company appeared in the form of a small pamphlet of the size which printers call " 16mo," cased in a bright yellow cover. Subsequently the size of the page was slightly altered and the yellow wrapper discontinued. I saved up some of these books for many years, but unfortunately in a house move, they were made away with, and the oldest record of Sussex trains I possess is, Bradshaw's Monthly Descriptive Railway Guide for June 1857, which in train tables does not mention East-Bourne ; only Brighton, Lewes, New- haven, St. Leonards and Hastings, as the important coast stations. The oldest complete time-table I possess is dated March 1866. The trains then running were as follows : DOWN London Bridge... Victoria East-Bourne UP East-Bourne ... Victoria London Bridge . The developement in the 44 years to 1910, cannot be described as very remarkable as regards the daylight trains, and comparing the above figures with the Bradshaw of 9 years previously, there was only an increase of one train each way to and from Hastings, and the trains were very closely identical in both years. .. 6.40 8.0 10.0 12.10 2.10 4.5 6.40 .. 6.35 7.55 9.55 12.5 2.5 4.0 6.35 .. 9.15 10.40 12.7 2.47 4.30 6.5 9.17 6.30 9.15 10.30 12.7 2.15 4.40 7.15 9.20 11.15 1.22 2.45 4.35 7.30 9.50 9.17 11.10 1.15 2.37 4.25 7.25 9.45 CHAP. XI.] Railway Carriages. 127 The Sunday trains were in each case only* two each way. Would that that modest provision had been maintained ! A few words about Railway carriages. The Brighton Company's carriages were always much below par compared with the carriages (in Railway parlance "" Coaches ") of the great northern Companies, and they continued to be so until pretty well the commencement of the 20th Century. Down to about 1865, there were four classes, the 4th Class having open sides, though roofed, but at an earlier period the cheap carriages had not even roofs. The last Railway carriages without roofs which I remember were used on the Woodford Branch of the Great Eastern Railway. I can well recollect the excitement caused on the Brighton Line by the 2nd Class carriages having their seats covered with leather and being provided with a narrow leather cushion for one's back. These were regarded as a delightful innovation, and a proof that the Brighton Company were going ahead in the way of propitiating the public. When the East-Bourne branch was opened, one engine did the whole of the work on the East-Bourne and Hailsham branches, running in turn, first to one place and then to the other. It will therefore readily be inferred that neither were the trains numerous nor the traffic heavy. A reserve engine was stabled at East-Bourne. The driver's name was Jackson, the guard's Foster, and the station-master's Dickinson. This modest state of things lasted without material change for several years. The station buildings and platform were to the W. of the present station, and were pulled down at a later date in order that the Upperton Road should pass over their site. The date of the new station on the new site was about 1866, with a new station-master named Bond. There had been built about 1857, adjacent to the old station, two long sheds facing one another with a paved open space between them, the whole being dignified by the name of the " East-Bourne Market." As a market it did not last long, but the buildings were used on August 26, 1858 (and I rather think on a 128 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XI. previous occasion also), for a Fancy Bazaar got up for a Church Building Fund, and they served that purpose very well. A third station was built in 1872 ; this was partly pulled down and transformed and the present station erected in 1886. The roof on the arrival side is still more modern. I will continue my Railway history of the town and neighbourhood, for it presents a succession of matters of interest, including many disappointments and blighted hopes and expectations. One day in the spring of 1864 Dr. Hall showed me a letter which had been addressed to him as an influential local resident and at one time Chairman of the Local Board. It came from a London firm of solicitors named Currey and Holland who were the London advisers of the Duke of Devonshire. It disclosed the fact that the South Eastern Railway Company were desirous of poaching on the Brighton Company's preserves, and getting a share of the London and East-Bourne traffic by constructing a branch line to East-Bourne from their Hastings main line at Battle. The writers of the letter wished for Dr. Hall's opinion as to the desirability of the proposal, and whether the East-Bourne people would support it. Even as early as that time there was a strong feeling in the Town that the interests of East-Bourne from a Railway point of view were kept in the background and sacrificed to the interests of Brighton. Dr. Hall asked me to go in his name to Westminster to Currey and Holland, and discuss the subject. This I did and, after seeing Mr. Holland, I was put into communication with Mr. H. Toogood, the Parliamentary Agent, and Mr. F. Brady, the Engineer of the S.E.R., and eventually we had a conference at the Burlington Hotel, East-Bourne, to consider the subject, Mr. Ellman, a Battle solicitor, being present to represent Battle. At a later stage the Brighton Company " squared " their rivals and the project was withdrawn. From a copy of the deposited plans which I possess it appears that the line would CHAP. XI.] East Sussex Railway projects. 129 have been 13^ miles long, and with East-Bourne Station at the back of the Terminus Road somewhere near what is now Tideswell Road. The Battle scheme was in a sense the outcome of a great Parliamentary fight in 1863 when the London, Chatham, and Dover Company inspired a direct aggression on the Brighton Company by a proposed line called " The Beckenham, Lewes, and Brighton Rail- way," of which Mr. C. L. Peel, of Cuckfield (afterwards Sir C. L. Peel, Clerk of the Privy Council) was Secretary. The scheme was fiercely contested by the Brighton Company and was rejected. It was revived in 1864 with the addition of branches to Westerham and East-Bourne. Its route was through West Wickham, Tatsfield, Oxted, East Grinstead, Newick, Lewes, and Rottingdean. It was, of course, again contested and was again thrown out, but these struggles had the effect of stirring up the Brighton Company to realise that if they did not do something very comprehensive to improve the railway accommodation of East Sussex they would have to face a further invasion of the County by their late rivals or by others. Accordingly in 1864 the Brighton Company obtained Bills for a net-work of lines covering nearly the whole of East Sussex with the ostensible object of benefiting East-Bourne and Hastings but with the real object of keeping out intruders. There was to have been a line from Balcombe through Uckfield (the " Ouse Valley " line) and Hailsham to Hastings (the " St. Leonards " line), and a line from Groombridge through Heathfield to Hailsham (the " Tunbridge Wells and East-Bourne " line) which might become a main line from Croydon to East-Bourne if Parliament sanctioned a line called " The Surrey and Sussex Railway " projected in the interests of the Brighton Company by independent promoters, from Croydon through Edenbridge to Groombridge and Tunbridge Wells. The Bills for the two of these lines received the sanction of Parliament in 1864, but owing to the opposition of Mr. Curteis, of Windmill Hill, the St. Leonards section was not passed at the same time K 130 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XI. as the others, but in a deviated form in the following session ; and the Surrey and Sussex line was also sanctioned about the same time and was taken over by the Brighton Company. The proposed Battle branch of the S.E.R., which I mentioned first of all in dealing with this group of Railways, was withdrawn in con- sequence of the Brighton Company conceding to the S.E.R. the right of running a service of trains from Charing Cross to East-Bourne via Tunbridge Wells, Groombridge, and Hailsham. Such a service in the form of 2 trains each week-day in each direction was at a much later period instituted, and was much appreciated by some of the East-Bourne people. A start was soon made with the Ouse Valley and Surrey and Sussex lines, and as much as -| a million of money had been spent on them when owing to the great Financial Crash of 1866 not only were the works stopped but later on the sanction of Parliament was given to their total abandonment. This was about 1871. I think nothing had been done between Groombridge and Hailsham because of a disinclination to start sooner than could be helped the construction of a tunnel more than a mile long under Heathfield Park. Just before the great Financial Crash of 1866 the Brighton Company had to face another Beckenham aggression in the shape of a new line to Brighton through Keston, Limpsfield, East Grinstead, Lewes, and Ovingdean to Kemp Town, with a branch to Westerham but without the projected branch to East-Bourne of the scheme of 1864. Once more were the invaders defeated. Some years later under new Parliamentary powers and in a modified form some of the Brighton Company's East Sussex lines mentioned above, with the exception of the Ouse Valley one and the line from Uckfield to Hailsham, were revived and made. The Ouse Valley and Uckfield Hailsham sections were, however, never revived, and various unfinished embankments and works disfigure the country between Balcombe and Uckfield to this day. The Surrey and Sussex line was revived and sanctioned, I think, in 1882. Then in 1883 its CHAP. XL] East Sussex Railway projects. 131 independent promoters tried for a Bill to extend it northwards through Croydon, Thornton Heath and under Beulah Hill and Norwood, to join the Chatham and Dover line at Dulwich. This would have given the Ohatham and Dover Company independent access to Tunbridge Wells in competition with the Brighton and .South-Eastern Companies. The Parliamentary Committee threw out the Croydon and Dulwich section and so left the revived Surrey and Sussex line (then known as the Oxted and Groombridge line) hung up without an inlet -or an outlet of its own. This put the line at the mercy of the Brighton Company who took it over and absorbed it in their own system on their own terms, except that they had to grant to the S.E.R. running powers from near Croydon as far south as Oxted the S.E.R. joining with a contribution towards the cost. It is a matter ever to be regretted on public grounds that the original Groombridge and Hailsham line with its long tunnel under Heathfield was not made, because it would have provided a first-class express running line available, when suitably linked up, for fast trains from London to East-Bourne which the existing Groombridge and Hailsham line never can be. This last line has a history of its own which is not devoid of interest. The abandonment of the Brighton Company's Tunbridge Wells and East-Bourne line of 1864 left all that part of Sussex totally unprovided with railway accommodation, so in 1873 local promoters were got together and obtained a Bill for a cheap cross-country line from Tunbridge Wells to Hailsham, of a gauge of 3ft. with bad gradients and dangerous curves. Having got their Act these promoters found themselves with a white elephant, having neither money nor wits to make and work their line, so they offered to transfer it to the Brighton Company who in the first instance refused the offer. The promoters thereupon threatened to sell their Act to the S.E.R. This frightened the Brighton Company who eventually took over the line and made it, after their Engineer Mr. Banister had, to some extent, altered and -eased the curves and gradients. It was opened in 132 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XI. sections the first, from Hailsham to Heathfield, in 1880. After the line as a whole was opened it was a long time before the earthwork settled down into a safe condition, owing, especially, to constant slips on a high embankment near Mayfield. Indeed during one winter the line was closed against all traffic for a whole month, and even now speed limitations are insisted on by the Board of Trade. The foregoing paragraphs by no means exhaust the railway history of the last 40 years in its bearings on East Sussex and East-Bourne, and some mention, how- ever concise, must be made of some other projects, hardly any of which were ever carried out. By very far the most important of these abortive projects was the scheme launched in 1868, for a general amalgamation of the Brighton, South Eastern, and Chatham Companies into one united concern to be called the " Great Southern Railway." The Companies having* been cutting one anothers' throats for many years,, suddenly became a " happy family." Their joint Bill passed the Commons, and would have became law had not Lord Redesdale in the Lords, insisted that the South Eastern scale of fares, which was very high, should not rule the fares of the Amalgamated Company, but that the fares should be on the lower or Brighton scale. This the Companies would not agree to, and they abandoned their Bill which was never afterwards revived. How much Sussex owes to Lord Redesdale as to this- has never, I think, been realised. For instance, the rejected South Eastern scale was for 1st Class four pence per mile. I forget the other figures. I have paid myself 4d. a mile on the South Eastern Railway. It was felt that this Bill would be so prejudicial to- the interests of East-Bourne, that the Vicar and Mr. J. Sheridan were appointed at a Vestry Meeting to act with Brighton, Hastings and other towns in opposing the Bill. I have already stated that the settled policy of the Brighton Company was to blockade all the approaches to Brighton. What this policy meant, was very frankly confessed by Mr. Laing, the Chairman of the Brighton CHAP. XI.] Brighton to be defended. 133 Company at a meeting called in 1877 (?), to sanction the construction of a railway from Lewes to East Grinstead. He said that " their main object had been to make such arrangements as would ward off any danger," i.e. danger from interlopers ! I well remember Mr. J. P. Knight, the then General Manager, illustrating this point one day when I was in his office at Brighton. Producing a map .of Sussex, he drew a pencil over the various lines, opened or sanctioned, converging on Brighton Worthing and Brighton, Horsham and Brighton, London and Brighton, East Grinstead and Brighton, Tuiibridge Wells and Brighton, etc., etc., and said with a chuckle, " Look at this ; isn't this defensive strategy worthy of the Duke of Wellington " or words to that effect. He had something to boast of, seeing that since his com- pany's victory in 1863, in the case of the London, Lewes and Brighton Line, they had defeated several subsequent schemes for rival main lines from London to Brighton promoted in Sessions subsequent to 1863, by the South Eastern and Chatham Companies in alliance and later still, in 1876, an anonymous scheme for getting into Brighton via Reigate and Shoreham, which was supposed (rightly or wrongly I do not know), to have been inspired by the Midland Company. At any rate, this I do know, that the Brighton officials were in a great " funk " about it for one of them told me so. There is yet another line to be mentioned, support to which was given by the Brighton Company and justified by Mr. Laing in his speech just alluded to. That was the Lewes and East Grinstead line passed in 1877, and extended eventually northwards through Lingfield to join the Surrey and Sussex line at Oxted. Lord Sheffield was a great promoter of this, contributing a large sum (200,000 I believe) to the cost. Mr. Laing's explanation to his shareholders was that by taking the line into their own hands, they would accomplish a final stroke to protect Brighton against all intrusive rivals, and so it has turned out. My Railway history of East Sussex is not yet complete. Taking the subjects as nearly as may be in 134: Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XL point of date in 1873 the Brighton Company con- structed the Willingdon and Pevensey spur line to facilitate communication between East-Bourne and Hastings. This was celebrated by a luncheon at the Cavendish Hotel, given by the Directors to certain East-Bourne and other people on August 1, 1873. In 1877, a proposal was put forward by Mr. G. A, Wallis, nominally at the instigation of the Duke of Devonshire, for a line to be made by the South Eastern Company from Ticehurst Road station into East-Bourne. The avowed idea was to bring the City of London and East-Bourne into closer contact, and so to encourage City men of business to take up their residences at East- Bourne. Nothing came of this scheme which never even took a definite shape before the public. One serious- objection to it was that from London to East-Bourne via Ticehurst was too roundabout a route to mean any substantial saving either in time or distance for London to East-Bourne passengers. Mr. Wallis's ambition to pose as a Railway Promoter and Engineer having been foiled in 1877, underwent a large developement in the course of the next few years, and the Session of 1883 witnessed what may be considered the last extensive and serious aggression on the Brighton Company. Just about that period Mr. Wallis was very much en evidence, becoming first Mayor of the new Municipal Borough of East-Bourne, and eager to become its first M.P., to celebrate which event (though it never came off) a magnificent champagne supper was organised but could not be eaten. But to return to Railways. Mr. Wallis fathered a scheme for a line to run as nearly straight as possible from Beckenham into East-Bourne, 48^ miles long, over which access into London was to be obtained by means of the lines of the Chatham and Dover Company between Beckenham and Victoria and Beckenham and Ludgate Hill. It was to pass through Tatsfield, Edenbridge r Uckfield, and Chiddingly, cross the Brighton line to the W. of Polegate, and so into East-Bourne. The distance from Ludgate Hill to East-Bourne would have been CHAP. XI.] Proposed Railways to East-Bourne. 135 exactly 58 miles. I was present most of the 11 days during which the hearing lasted ; indeed I was called as a witness on behalf of the Brighton Company. Whilst it is probable that the line would have done good to East-Bourne merely from the standpoint of the traveller it is absolutely certain that having regard to the lack of population along its whole length there was not the remotest possibility that, if made, it could become a paying concern. It evoked, however, a large amount of verbal support from the inhabitants of East-Bourne, but little or no financial support other than that which was, or might have been, given by the Duke of Devonshire. The tunnels constituted one objection to the Bill. There would have been 10, of an aggregate length of 11,697 yards nearly 7 miles. One of them nearly 2 miles long, and two others each about one mile. The next Railway move was in the autumn of 1885 when a meeting was held at East-Bourne on October 28, in support of a scheme for a coast-line from East-Bourne to Seaford. This also was from a local point of view a popular proposal. The circular convening the meeting suggested among other advantages that the line would " greatly benefit the Town by lessening the cost of coals, building materials, and other goods coming from Newhaven. It also suggested that the landowners along the line were favourable to the scheme. This was true, Lord Chichester having sent his steward to attend the meeting whilst another important landowner, Mr. Davies Gilbert, was specially keen on the subject. I was invited to address the meeting and did so in a speech which, I am afraid, was of undue length. Mr. Gilbert's motives were avowed to be that he looked forward to developing Birliug Gap as a residential marine suburb of East- Bourne. I confess that I liked the idea, and quite think that some day it may be realised. The proposal took the shape of a Bill in the next session of Parliament which soon became an Act, and it was generally hoped and expected that the line would soon be made the promoters having come to terms with the Brighton Company as to working it. Starting from off the 136 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XL East-Bourne Branch., a little N. of the Bedford Well waterworks, it was to have passed to the W. of Rodmill Farm and so across to the Downs, penetrating the hill by a long tunnel, the W. mouth of which would have been near East Dean. Thence after a shorter tunnel the line would have been in the open along the valley in which the village of West Dean lies, and so crossing the Cuckmere near Exceat and passing by Chington Farm, S. of Sutton, it would have joined the existing Seaford Branch a little to the W. of the Seaford Station. Unfortunately for East-Bourne and Mr. Gilbert a change took place in the General Manager's Department of the Brighton Railway, and the new Manager Mr. (afterwards Sir Allen) Sarle, who had no large ideas on any subject, was hostile to the scheme, and persuaded his directors to withdraw from their obligations with respect to it ; and so it came about that the Act was repealed. In 1899 a proposal was brought forward for a light Railway from Robertsbridge to Pevensey, and I was asked to give evidence in support of it which I promised to do, at the Inquiry before the Commissioners held at Pevensey on July 13, 1899. The project, however, fell through, but I do not remember exactly why it failed. At any rate it was a pity, because such a line would have opened up a large tract of rich agricultural land, and have given the farmers an outlet for their produce, and so have improved the prospects of agriculture in that part of Sussex. Imitating, as one might say, the policy of the Duke of Devonshire in East-Bourne, Earl De La Warr, who has done a great deal for the developement of Bexhill, thought in 1899 that the time had come to provide Bexhill with better accommodation than it had from the Brighton Company by reason of the fact that the route from London to Bexhill via Lewes was a great way round. Accordingly he inspired a proposal for a line from Rotherfield to Bexhill direct, with connections at the N. end with the Brighton Company's lines at Groombridge and with the South Eastern Company's lines at or near Frant. It is evident that such a scheme CHAP. XL] Railway Accidents. 137 whilst it would have been highly beneficial to Bexhill would have altogether undermined the Brighton Company's London and Bexhill traffic, but no Parliamentary fight took place because the promoters could not raise enough money even to get the scheme into Parliament. Railway accidents in the East-Bourne district have been, happily, very few. The most important Avas the derailment of a train at Mayfield on September 1, 1897, when the train fell over, and went down an embankment. But one of the greatest railway accidents that ever happened in England occurred on the Brighton main line in Clayton tunnel on Sunday, August 25, 1861. No fewer than 23 people were killed in a collision between 2 trains on the same line of rails, though a third train in front of the 2 trains was the indirect cause of the accident. Altogether there were about 100 casualties. It put a stopper on Sabbath-breaking excursioiiing for a long time : would that it had done so permanently ! Of course in those days the signalling arrangements were very different from, and inferior to, those now in vogue. On the Brighton line, up till about 1870, the system was this : the line was considered to be always clear : when a train passed a signal box a stop signal was exhibited for 5 minutes during 3 of which it was horizontal, or full " on " : then for 2 minutes at an angle of 45 or half-cock : indicating that the line ahead less than 5 minutes previously had been occupied by a preceding train. When 5 minutes had elapsed the signal was lowered so as not to show at all. It was in those days supposed that intervals of time sufficed to protect a train from being run into. Now-a-days a guaranteed interval of space, rather than time, is preferred. This is the " Block system." An accident, not at first sight very important in itself, but fatal in its consequences, happened at East- Bourne Station on August 22, 1873, whereby a man was killed. Though I held a Brief at the Inquest, I forget the details. A passenger named Bere recovered from the Railway Company 1700 for personal injuries sustained by him ; at the trial they had paid a 1000 138 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XL into Court, and the jury added 700. Another fatal accident at the same station happened in December 1899, when a most capable and obliging man, appreciated by everybody, Inspector Tucker, was killed, but through his- own lack of caution. These exceptions (and of course some others) do not invalidate my general statement that the Brighton is a very safe line for travellers. An important matter in regard to the prosperity of East-Bourne, as influenced by Railways, is that of inter- communication with distant parts of England, and on this I have something to say. In the spring of 1892, I spent some days at Bournemouth, and whilst there was- very much struck with the number of railway carriages- coming into the Bournemouth station from distant parts of England, served by the London and North Western, Midland, and Great Western Railways, labelled ;< Through carriage to Bournemouth." When I got home to East-Bourne, I wrote letters to- the General Managers of the London and North Western and Brighton Companies on the basis of the information which I had picked up at Bournemouth, and suggested the desirability of a similar service between the North and Brighton and East-Bourne via Addison Road Kensington, and Clapham Junction. The answers were very significant and characteristic of the two Companies. Sir G. Findlay on behalf of the L.N.W.R. said he warmly approved of the idea, and would be glad to- co-operate with the Brighton Company in carrying it out. Mr. Sarle, on behalf of the Brighton Company, said that my suggestion was impossible quite out of the question, because, amongst other reasons, of the "habitual uupunctuality " of the L.N.W.R. trains ! ! ! And this was said at a time when the unpunctuality of the Brighton Company's trains had become a public scandal. I also wrote a letter on the subject to the East- bourne Chronicle under date of August 18, 1894. In 189G, the Mayor of East-Bourne (Mr. J. A. Skinner) visited Bournemouth and came back with some pro- gressive ideas in his head. This induced me in September 1890 to resume my efforts and to publish a CHAP. XL] London & North Western Connections. 139 1 letter on the through train question in the Eastbourne Standard. I kept on hammering at the subject during subsequent years by letters to the newspapers, and otherwise, down to 1903, by which time the matter had taken such root in the public mind that a through service from Manchester to East-Bourne via Brighton was inaugurated on July 23, 1904, by a Mayoral banquet at the Grand Hotel, East-Bourne, to which representatives- of the 2 Railway Companies and others were invited. I claim a little credit for having correctly judged of the possibilities of the movement because, started with the reluctant consent of the Brighton Company as an experiment for the 3 summer months of July, August and September, it was extended, first for another month, and then for 2 more months till the 31st of December, and is now permanent throughout the year. It has brought a. large number of desirable people from the North into East-Bourne, and has enabled the inhabitants of Sussex to increase their knowledge of the geography of the Midlands and North of England. The Town having secured permanent connection with the L.N.W.R. Company I thought in February 1905 I would have a try at the Great Western, especially because they were already running through trains from Oxford and Birkenhead to Dover via Reading and Redhill, and it would be easy for one or two through-carriages to be sent to Brighton and East-Bourne off the trains running through Redhill. I received a sympathetic reply from Mr. Inglis, the General Manager of the G.W.R., to the effect that his Company had tried to move in the matter but that " the suggestion has not met with much favour." He added, however, that the whole matter was engaging the best attention of his Board, and that conferences- with the Brighton Company were taking place. This, it will be observed, was 5 years ago. Let me express- the hope that the conferences are still taking place, and that within the next 5 years the Brighton Company will abandon their popish principles of non possumus. Tramways must occupy a niche in this chapter. I have always advocated the introduction of Tramways- 140 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XI. into East-Bourne, and have been warmly blessed and cursed, alternately, for doing so. As a mere matter of history I may note that in 1899 a proposal was made Toy some London speculators for the formation of an "" East-Bourne and Pevensey Omnibus and Tramway Company," but nothing came of it except a good deal of printing. A map of the scheme, now before me, shows that the line was to start from the Terminus Road end of Langney Road arid run along the Pevensey Road to Langney Bridge whence a loop was to be made to Pevensey Station and through Westham to Pevensey Village and back by Wallsend to Langney Bridge again. No invasion of the fashionable residential parts of the Town was included in the scheme. The opponents of Tramways in East-Bourne may depend upon it that they will come sooner or later ; the hideous, noisy, and stinking motor omnibuses are no sufficient or satisfactory substitutes. I arn no new convert to the Tramway. I welcomed G. F. Train's American Tramway down the Bayswater Road in 1862, and made my first speech in favour of tramways in London as far back as April 13, 1861, at a College Debating Society. Under the date of July 25, 1857 I find in my diary an entry that I went to Polegate to meet a cousin returning from Croydou, and that " she came down in a long train : 3 engines and 50 carriages." The figures .seem incredible, but the writing is quite distinct. This chapter will be brought to an end with a few anecdotes of Railway-travelling experiences " Published by Request," as sermons are sometimes said to be. It so happens that in the performance of duties connected with my work as a Local Government Board Inspector, .a Boundary Commissioner, and a Political Speaker on platforms, including professional journeys as a Barrister, I have had a great deal of railway-travelling in England between Penzance and Dover on the S. and Manchester .and York on the N., with a good deal in Wales and some in Scotland and Ireland. Within the first-named English, area I have traversed almost every mile of railway open up to 1901. The present incidents will be limited to the L.B. & S.C.R. CHAP. XI.] Railway Travelling Anecdotes. 141 Travelling one day to London, when the train pulled up at Lewes and I was engaged in reading a newspaper, a paper boy came up and offered me, say, The Thames? Magazine and The Daily Moonshine. As I was sufficiently and visibly supplied with literature I took no notice of him. At length, after repeated vain efforts to move me, he said in despair " H'aint ye got a tongue ? " One day between Polegate and Lewes I occupied myself in turning over a number of proof sheets of my Handbook of Astronomy, laying them on an adjacent unoccupied seat. A lady and gentleman were in the carriage. After the lady had watched me for a considerable time she said " Do you ever give lectures on Astronomy ? " I replied " Yes, sometimes." She then asked me whether I would pay her a visit and give a lecture on Astronomy at a forthcoming annual meeting of her Primrose League. To this startling suggestion I said that the idea seemed to me altogether out of the question ; how in the world could Astronomy be deemed in the least degree appropriate to the work of the Primrose League ? She replied " Never you mind ; will you come ? if you will, I will guarantee you an appreciative and numerous audience ; I will pay you a suitable fee, and take all the blame off your shoulders of a failure." With such an offer and such a disclaimer I saw no sufficient reason for continuing the contest. The gentleman produced his card, confirmed his wife's arguments, and I handed over my card, and it was settled that about 6 weeks later I should go to Southampton on my way to stay with my new friends whose names I had never heard of, nor they of my name. Arriving in due course at the Southampton West Station I found a smart carriage and pair of horses waiting to drive me to a large country house, about 4 miles out, where lived Mr. and Mrs. S M . The Primrose Entertainment came off in the evening ; the audience seemed quite to appreciate my lecture, especially my comparison of Mr. Gladstone to a comet the path and character of which were unknown and uncertain. All the arrangements had been well 142 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XL organised, and I suppose I may say that the lecture was a success, as rny hostess prophesied it would be. The tale is not quite finished because it had a comic -ending. When I came down to breakfast the next morning Mrs. S M said, " Knowing that you were a literary man, I did my best to provide your bed-room with a suitable supply of stationery." This was indeed true, for a large writing table had evidently been imported for the occasion, which was furnished with an extraordinary variety of writing materials : letter paper, foolscap paper, envelopes of various sizes, red tape, sealing wax, pencil, india-rubber, pens, and finally a handsome inkstand. My hostess was entitled to be pleased with the provision she had made, and said, "" I hope you found all you wanted." I replied " Yes, indeed I did, with one exception : there was not a drop of ink in the ink-bottle ! ' I need not complete the conversation ! I will only add that Mrs. S M explained how it was they happened to be travelling from Hastings, saying that they were visiting a sick relative there every week, and it was a disgrace to the Railway Companies concerned that every journey occupied from 6 to 7 hours in travelling the 90 miles between the two towns. One day at Victoria, I got into a 1st Class carriage .and found an elderly lady already in it. She promptly moved to the door, and beckoned to the Ticket Collector to let her out. He demurred, and a conversation took place of which I overheard the following sentence, " He's all safe ma'am : he's one of our regular Ticket- holders." This seemed to satisfy the nervous lady. After all it's something for a man going through the world to have a character. The lack of this character at Paddington, where I am not known, once involved me in .a situation which I am bound to say did not make me in the least uncomfortable. I was starting on a long journey to the West of England, and had got early into the train to secure a corner seat and had unpacked on to the adjacent seat various travelling etceteras likely to IOQ wanted during the next 4 or 5 hours. Presently a OHAP. XI.] Railway Travelling Anecdotes. 143 lady came up, looked at me : evidently did not like my looks ; went away and brought up the guard. Guard loquitur : " Viscountess N - wishes to travel in this carriage." I answered " I have not the least objection." He then proceeded to request me to leave which I firmly but placidly declined to do. Finding it was no good, .and that he was therefore likely to lose his half-a-crown " tip " he went away, and the lady with him. Viscountess N is now Countess of B and I Tiope more reasonable in her requirements when travelling by rail. Travelling one day to Victoria, equipped for a long journey, I opened my hand-bag in the carriage in order to have the use of some books and papers. Doing this I exposed to view sundry accessories in the form of hair brush, comb, slippers and things of that sort. An elderly lady got in at Haywards Heath and watched me with much interest between there and Croydon. At Croydon I proceeded to pack up. This drew from the old lady some remarks which amused me as much as my property seemed during the previous -|- hour to have .amused her, for, after having bottled up her thoughts for some time, she finally exclaimed, " Dear me ! you seem to have quite a little portable dressing-room there." I discovered that the lady was the Dowager Marchioness of D . " 8%eg s^all a0.e rag Jwrs.es, but Q'll make tlitra gag." (Merry Wives of Windsor.) "(5tt g0u \tntt in ytuct." (Love's Labour Lo*t.) " $&m 0mj|ri 10 rnneraber i|mr frkuira fo^o aw absent." (DIOGENES LAEBTIUS.) [ 144 ] CHAPTER XII. GAMES AND SPORTS. Early Cricket at East-Bourne. Cricket at Brighton. Cricket at East- Bourne in the " Sixties." Cricket at Compton Place. Curious Coincidences on a P. and 0. Steamer. Origin of the Devonshire Park. Stool-Ball. Point-to- Point Races. Races at Beachy Head. Fox Hounds. Harriers. First Regatta. Pedestrian Feat. Golf. " Spelling -Bees." " Living Chess." " Book-Teas." rlmt fyt faify fytg air m tennis." (King Henry VIII.} sttk fur arausjtmntt, but 1st alfoajjs rrabjr txr Ire amusfb," (RUSKIN.) i|r0u fcunt ? |r0un0s toill make t^ fotlKiu aitsforr tytm, littr^ shrill jero.es from tyt Jrxrllafo jeart|r." (Taming the Shrew.) THE earliest East-Bourne Cricket Club that I ever heard of was founded, I believe, in 1837. Whether that club was in existence in 1849 I do not know, but that was the year of the first cricket match which I remember. The play took place in the large field now belonging to Temple Grove School at the Old Town, There was nothing in the shape of a pavilion or shed there, and the beer barrels, ideemed indispensable in those days, stood in the open, and were so drawn from. As quite a small boy I never took to cricket, and it was with the young Thomases at Ration on July 19, 1854, that my cricket life really began. Football was little heard of ; I only find one mention of it in my diaries 1854 1856. Hockey was our winter game. My interest in cricket was chiefly the result of being at school at Brighton for the three years just mentioned, where I had great opportunities not only of playing the game, but of seeing it played. My Headmaster, the Rev. J. W. Gary, was an Oxford D.D., and had been Head- master of the Lewes Grammar School, and it was through CHAP. XIL] Cricket. 145 the introduction of the Earl of Chichester that I was sent to the "Chichester House School" at Brighton. Dr. Gary was not only an active player, considering his age (which was much over 50), when I came under his scholastic control, but he was keen at watching the game when great matches were in progress. He himself always played in a " chimney-pot " hat, which was the full-dress headgear in those days, though it was permissible for boys to wear flannel skull caps with peaks. Once or twice we were taken for special "treats " over to Lewes to meet a Lewes team at the " Dripping Pan." On one such occasion, I remember Major H. P. Molineux (not then a major) or perhaps it was a brother, who was one of the spectators. Another brother (G. F. M.) was in our Brighton team. Date August 29, 1854. The Brunswick Ground at Hove was the great Sussex County centre for cricket in the " Fifties," and between 1853 and 1856 I must have seen many of the most celebrated players in England. I remember in particular the names of the following who played at Brighton : For Sussex : Box, Dean, J. Lilly white, Mr. H. L. Nicholson, Wells, and Wisden; whilst the Kent men I remember were : Mr. A. Mynn, Pilch and Willsher. On August 21, 1855, I was at the Brunswick Ground on the third day of a well-contested match between Kent and Sussex, in which Kent scored 278 and Sussex 216. The first day had been so wet and stormy that play was suspended, and the great Sussex bowler, Wisden, went for a walk, thinking there would be no more play, but there was ; and two Kent batsmen (Mr. A. Mynn and Adams) took advantage of Wisden's temporary absence, and ran up unexpected scores. Kent, Sussex, Surrey, Nottinghamshire, and York- shire were the only cricket counties in the first rank in my younger days. Hampshire and Middlesex might be allowed a second class place, but all the other counties were nowhere. The names of two Clubs were well known, but only those two, namely : "I Zingari " and " Marylebone." Slow "underhand" bowling was just being replaced by fast " roundhand " bowling. The 140 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XII. great apostle of the new style was, I think, Jackson, a Nottinghamshire man, and his bowling was looked upon with much disfavour as being throwing rather than bowling, as the latter word was understood. It was certainly very fast, as I can testify from having acted as long stop for him on one occasion of practice at the Brunswick Ground. It was at Brighton, too, that I acquired my taste for horse-racing and the Turf. The second master of the " Chichester House School " took all the boys to the Brighton Races in August 1853 ; when he got home there were " Wigs on the Green," as Dr. Gary did not approve of races. I shall have something else to say about races further on. To return to cricket. From 1857 onwards till 1866, especially, I had a good deal of cricket at East-Bourne. In the first-named year, in conjunction with my old friend R. D. Pierpoint, I got up several matches, " Visitors v. Mr. Bown's School." I have preserved some of the scores, which were published in the Eastbourne Gazette and in the Lewes Times and Eastbourne Chronicle. Here is one of them, quoted from the Gazette of September 5, 1859 :- " CRICKET. The Visitors v. Mr. Bown's School. This Return Match was played on Saturday, August 27, on the cricket ground in front of Cornfield Terrace. The above match terminating early, the remainder of the afternoon was spent in playing the following between two sides, chosen on the ground. Mr. Chambers showed some excellent play in the field." MR. CHAMBERS' SIDE J. Girdlestone, 1 b w ... Earl Aboyne, c Holland G. Chambers, c Smith Pascoe, b Thompson Roberts, b Thompson M. Jeyes, b Thompson Viscount Newry (absent) D. Pierpoint, c Holland 2 3 3 7 o 2 I 2 Byes, &c 13 Carcassy, b Martin Martin, st Thompson J. Duke, not out MR. SALMON'S SIDE. F. Salmon, c Chambers S. Smyth, b Chambers Thompson, b Chambers W. Belts, c Duke Rawes, b Chambers ... Martin, b Chambers ... C. Holland, tchd. ball C. Smith, c Chambers Lintott, not out H. Smith, b Chambers W. Webbe, c Chambers Byes, &c 3 Total 33 Total 68 The Earl of Aboyne in the above eleven is the present Marquis of Huntley. The present Earl of CHAP. XII.] Cricket. 147 Kilmorey (then Viscount Newry and Morne) was a frequent contributor to the scores of the " Visitors." His mother (Viscountess Newry) was tenant for some months of what is now called Rosemount, but in those days was known as Frohsdorf. From its then owner it passed by purchase to Mr. Robert Hanbury, M.P. for Middlesex. At his death Mr. G. Matthey bought it, and changed the name to that of another house near by, which he also bought and pulled down, throwing the garden of the two houses into one. Mr. Arthur Mills, M.P. for Taunton, was a constant member of our informal cricket club. Play usually took place at a spot which now forms the roadway of Devonshire Place, about opposite to No. 9, but one or two games were played in a field at the back of South Street, about where now is Gildredge Road. Another frequent player at about the same time was Samuel Moles worth, who died in 1908 as 8th Viscount Moles worth. He lived in East-Bourne with an old aunt, Miss Tompkins. Later on, I had a great deal of cricket at Comptou Place. After the removal of Mrs. Cavendish, the mother of the 7th Duke of Devonshire, to Chislehurst about 1860, her daughter (Lady Fanny Howard) with her husband (Mr. F. J. Howard) and family came to reside there, and with the young Howards, supplemented by accessions from outside, I had many pleasant cricket afternoons, between 1862 and 1867. This last-named year was the last of my organised cricket seasons at East-Bourne, because it was the year of my marriage, and except for short but very frequent visits I was not regularly at East-Bourne again till 1873, when I became a permanent resident "paying scot and bearing lot " to use an ancient phrase. One of the cricketers whom I have designated by the term " accessory," was a certain Delmar Cavendish, a cousin of the reigning family, who I never saw again till 1905, when I renewed my acquaintance with him under curious circumstances. I was a passenger in the P. & 0. steamer Arcadia from Tilbury to Marseilles, I going out to see the Eclipse of the Sun of August 30, 1905. 148 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XII. Seeing the name Delmar Cavendish attached as Purser to certain notices posted up in the ship, I hunted him out and found he was the cricketing friend of my youth. I discovered 3 other people with East-Bourne associations, who by a singular coincidence, were on board that ship. One of the officers said to me, " what is the best place from which to get a good view of the eclipse." I replied, mockingly, "The masthead." Shortly afterwards- I saw my young friend being hauled up to the masthead in a large basket where he did observe the eclipse. After he descended he came to me and said "I know you : I have been to your house at East-Bourne : my name is Bacon : you know my father and mother." All of which was true, for I found he was the son of a Captain Bacon who used to live at 7 Burlington Place. The third East-Bourne link was made by the wife of a County Court Judge on board, who had a married sister living in Granville Road. The 4th link was a Miss , who came to me one evening in the saloon and said, " May I venture to introduce myself, though you will not know my name, but I am a cousin of the Whelptons of East- Bourne and I was once at Northfield Grange for one of your Shakespeare Readings." Up to the time when the Devonshire Park was formed and the land walled in, the ground had been used for a Cricket Club. As compensation for the loss of that ground, the Duke of Devonshire provided a new site (now covered by Ashford and Tideswell Roads), but the townspeople resented very much the action of the Duke's Agent, and it was a long time ere the Devonshire Park gained the sympathetic support of the townspeople generally, if it has ever done so. The conversion of the Saffrons Field into a cricket ground was carried out at a very much more recent date. About the middle of the 19th Century, and later, there was in Sussex, as in many parts of England, much archery. The " South Saxon Archers " was a very well- known and important Club, which held its meetings at different centres. In July 1878, I was staying with my family at Horsham, and under the date of July 22, I find CHAP. XIL] Archery and Stool-ball. 149 in my diary the entry "To an archery party at St. Leonard's Lodge (Col. Aldridge's). About 200 there." I do not however, remember if that was a " South Saxon " meeting, nor do I recollect that the Club ever came to East-Bourne, but there were a few who took up archery in the place. When Lawn Tennis became the rage, I have an idea that the South Saxon Club was formally converted into a Lawn Tennis Club, but I know nothing further about it. Croquet was much played in East-Bourne 30 years ago, but when the disease called Lawn Tennis broke out and raged as an epidemic, Croquet went under for many years, but Sussex has a game of its own, Stool-ball, which as it is scarcely known now even by name, may be enlarged upon here. I am under the impression that stool-ball is or originally was, purely a Sussex game, although the following entry respecting it appears in the Imperial Dictionary : " A play at ball, formerly in vogue especially among young women." " Chapman " and " Prior " are cited as authorities. However, be this as it may, I may say that it was very much played in and around East-Bourne between 20 and 30 years ago, and I have received from a lady friend some information respecting it which I will proceed to sum up after I have quoted her statement that " many delightful picnics had stool-ball as a sort of basis and raison d' etre. Speaking generally, the game may be regarded as a sort of ladies' cricket, and depends for its general principles and rules on ordinary cricket, but with important modifications of detail as regards the apparatus employed. Instead of wickets there is provided a post, about 5ft. 6in. high, close to the top of which, so as to have its centre about 5ft. from the ground, there is attached a board, about 16 inches square, with its corners rounded off. The batsman (batswomari) stands in front of this post, and the target, as we may call it, should have its upper edge about level with the average height above the ground of the shoulders of the players. This in effect means that it is best that the 150 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XII. target should be constructed so as to be capable of some sliding adjustment iip and down. The " bat " should be something like a tennis racquet but with a shorter handle. In point of fact if specially-constructed bats are not available 2 or 3 disused tennis racquets may be employed the handles of which have been shortened by 3 or 4 inches. The ball is an ordinary india-rubber ball, not too small in size. The bowler bowls, of course, aiming to strike the target, which the batsman seeks to prevent being done. The batsman striking the ball to a sufficient distance, runs, or does not run, to the opposite wicket and back again, and may be bowled out, or caught out, or may score a run or runs in the usual way of cricket. Besides Point-to-Point Races (good for killing people) got up in connection with local Hunts, as to which I have nothing to say because I know nothing, there used to be an annual Race Meeting at Bullock Down, near Beachy Head. Even at the remote date when these meetings took place and when, I mean, East-Bourne was still a smafl place not much known to the racing fraternity of cardsharpers, thimble-riggers, Aunt Sally-men ct hoc genus omnc, there were not lacking proofs that " sport " of the sort was a great nuisance and evil, so on Nay 10, 1875 I took upon myself the functions of " Our own Reporter " and went to the Beachy Head Races. I wrote a description of the festive scene which the editor of the Sussex Times honoured me by publishing. I sent a copy of my journalistic effort to the Duke of Devonshire and never more were there any Races on Bullock Down. Such is the power of the Press ! "The scenes that were to be witnessed at Beachy Head on the day in question, were infinitely worse than anything we could have imagined, rivalling for black- guardism the worst features of the Kingsbury, Croydon and other suburban meetings,, which have been the constant theme of writers in the London papers during the last year or two, on the score of the injury they inflict on the morals and peace of the neighbourhood. We are glad to be able to feel that neither East-Bourne, nor probably even Sussex, contributed many to the contingent of fast " ladies " and " gentlemen " who disfigured our Downs by their company on the JOth of May- There was a great absence, we are happy to say, of local faces, and the few that were there belonged to owners of whom probably the majority would have been ashamed to have had their names chronicled by the reporters as visitors to the race-course. At any rate the " grand stand " (save the mark) and the ring were exclusively given over to foreigners, London and other blacklegs, who plyed their CHAP. XII.] Hunting and Boating. 151 gambling tricks with a hardiness which betokened life-long experience of the betting trade. One man, smarter than his rivals, by way of showing that he was well up in the news of the day, stated that he had been sent down by Messrs. Moody and Sankey to distribute half-sovereigns for the benefit for the poor, in exchange in each case for 5s. worth of silver a clear gain of 5s. to every applicant. The crowd of blockheads around him was so thick that we were unable to get near enough to make it worth while to add one to it. Passing over things not fit to be mentioned to ears polite (of which there was a plenty), we would conclude by remarking that so far from being an attraction to East-Bourne, these races, if they continue and grow, will become a real curse to the town; whilst looked at from the "horsey" point of view, the gathering was a miserable sham. For instance, the cup, in respect of which the Duke of Devonshire is annually fleeced to the extent of 25, was run for by three miserable brutes, one of which was blown before his rider had galloped him half-a-mile, whilst of the other two it might be supposed that the question was, which could get last to the post. As sport, the whole entertainment was an utter failure, and as a public benefit for the good of trade, the profits were reaped only by the police, the beer retailers, and the fly-drivers, all of whom had plenty to do." The hunting of foxes and hares has long prevailed in and around East-Bourne, and in my younger days the South DOWD foxhounds kennelled at Ration, with Mr. Thomas as Master, and the Brookside Harriers kennelled near Lewes were names to conjure with. In a sense the packs now carried on in this part of Sussex have inherited some of the traditions of 1850-60, but I am not competent to go into any details. At a much later date I unearthed ^a litter of foxes in a secluded part of my gardens at Northficld Grange, and on more than one occasion (once when there was snow on the ground) a wily fox assisted in reducing my stock of ducks and chickens. The familiar notice-board ' Trespassers will be prosecuted ' seems to have no effect on. these people. One year I lost a tame gull. One of the occupations of my younger days on which I look back with much pleasure was boating. During several successive summers in the " Sixties " I joined in many boating trips either for the simple pleasure of a sail, or to end on shore somewhere for an evening picnic, or for sea-fishing off Langney Point. The following extracts from diaries may suffice as specimens of the programmes : 1807, August 13. " Out in sailing boat at 7.30 for 2 hours with a party of 12." 1867, August 14. " Frightfully hot day. Rowed to Beachy Head in evening : party in 3 boats." The 26th day of August 1859 saw the first Regatta at East-Bourne. The sea-front from opposite 24 Grand Parade to the Wish was all cliff no houses except 2 old cottages ; and the swarms of people who lined the cliff 152 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XII. created quite a sensation. Such a crowd had never been seen before because in 1806 there were no excursion trains to bring Hodge into the town to see reviews of the troops quartered here. I suppose the following may be deemed appropriate to a Chapter on Sport. On January 30, 1854, Mr. E. C. Graham, brother of the R. J. Graham frequently quoted in this book, walked 80 miles in 23 hours and 25 minutes for a wager to do it in 24 hours. The course was a measured half-mile in front of Compton Place. The incident caused great local excitement and much annoyance to Graham's parents. He afterwards took Holy Orders and died Vicar of Wartling. Golf is a game originally limited to Scotland and in the "Fifties" had, I believe, no hold in England otherwise than in the form of a Club established at Blackheath, of which an East-Bourne uncle of mine had been a member. His superannuated " tool " was long under my eyes at The Gore and regarded by the few people who knew what it was as a relic brought from a foreign clime. I wonder how many golf tools now exist in East-Bourne were a census taken. I suppose thousands. It is a game which never took my fancy for I prefer to satisfy its supposed advantages of affording pedestrianism and fresh air by an honest walk over the Downs. I did, however, once have a day's play when staying with a cousin in Aberdeen shire. I do not know whether a " Spelling Bee " belongs to " Games and Sports " or is " Educational." Perhaps it is a little of each. I will place it with the former for my present purpose. I was present at one held at Diplock's Assembly Rooms on February 4, 1876, and must confess that I thought it provided a very good combination of amusement with profitable instruction. The movement suddenly became very popular in different parts of England about the year in question, and as suddenly died out. As I dare say many of my readers have either forgotten all about it, or have never heard of it, I will dedicate a few lines to it. The performers, as I suppose they must be called, assembled on a platform CHAP. XII.] Spelling Bees. 153 under the presidency of a chairman, with a secretary at Ms side who possessed (or ought to have been chosen because he possessed) a clear good voice. It was his duty to call out certain words, the more puzzling the better, which the performers were required to spell letter by letter in turn. The performer who made the fewest mistakes in the hour during which the trial of their brains took place, was adjudged to be the prize-winner, or prize-winners in the order of success. How many prizes were awarded, and what they were to be, depended on the financial position of the promoters as made possible by the number and amount of the entrance fees, etc. I must say that I should like to see " Spelling Bees " revived, for they constitute a much more healthy competition than most of those flaunted in the cheap newspapers of the present day. The following account of a " Bee " held on January 27, 1876 is abridged from the Eastbourne Chronicle : "The 'Spelling Bee 'of the Mutual Improvement Society, held on Thursday Jan. 27, at the Assembly-room, brought one of the most densely- packed rooms which have ever been seen in East-Bourne so great was the press, in fact, that scores had to be turned away, and to meet the disappointment thus felt it was at once decided to ' hive another swarm ' on an early occasion. The candidates numbered 60, and included a good proportion of ladies, though the fair sex had all been weeded out before the competitors were reduced to the five who won the prizes. Mr. F. W. H. Cavendish occupied the chair. The candidates were taken in three rounds of twenty, so that the audience might have a better opportunity of identifying the ' spellers.' The Rev. H. R. Whelpton acted as interrogator, assisted by Mr. J. Easter ; and Mr. E. Crake and Mr. W. Esam officiated as referees the new edition of Webster's Dictionary doing duty as the standard of correctness. Eight words proved sufficient to dress the first score of competitors down to five, 'yield' and 'hypochondriac* doing sweeping execution. Of the second twenty, one stumbled at the first word ' wain,' and the remainder were ruled out by the interrogator for spelling by-law with an ' e,' when Webster gave it without. The referees were appealed to, and in consequence of the word being so frequently spelt ' bye-law,' they decided to allow it as correct. The Chairman observed that with all due deference to Mr. Webster he thought he was wrong (laughter). Thres fell at the word ' amanuensis. ' ' Eligibility ' displaced one lady, while ' feoffee ' eliminated from the list no fewer than five competitors, all ladies. Befoie the words ' apophthegm,' 'privilege,' 'systematically,' and 'adventitious,' the competitors *got small by degrees and beautifully less,' till they were reduced to the number of five. The third twenty next made their appearance, and were first tried with ' lettuce,' which, as might have been expected, proved quite harmless. A chemist's son, above all others, fell a victim to ' laudanum,' while three competitors stumbled at ' apocrypha,' and three ladies and two gentlemen at ' oecumenical.' ' Subpcena ' summoned one lady to the ranks of those who had failed, and ' Deuteronomy ' settled the fate of three other candidates. When five only remained, these were joined by the other ten successful competitors, and then commenced the deciding contest. Three or four hard words were correctly spelled, after which five competitors were ruled put for omitting the ' p ' in 'comptroller,' but these were re-instated on an appeal being made to referees, the word being spelled both ways in the dictionary. ' Periwinkle ' proved fatal to two, and 'synecdoche' swept away no less than six, including the last two ladies left. Ultimately the number was reduced to five, and the contest for 'places' thereupon ensued. 'Orrery' left three in the vanguard and these were successively assaulted by the words ' unparalleled,' ' oolite,' ' menagerie,' 154 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XII. 'chrysanthemum,' 'epaulette,' 'phonetic,' 'phlegmatic,' 'gurgoyles,' 'apocope,' ' gazetteer,' ' promissory,' ' vicissitude,' ' phthisis,' but all without effect. ' Millen- nium,' however, sent one gentleman to the rear rank, and in the next word, ' lachrymose,' one gentleman spelled it also ' lacrimose,' and as the dictionary did not support the latter way he was ruled out. The result was that Mr. Podmore, a university gentleman, won the first prize, 2; Mr. Thomas, the second, i ; and Mr. Welch the third, 155. The other two prizes lay between Mr. Campbell and Mr. O. Mitchell. The word ' satellite ' sufficed to decide their relative places. Mr. Campbell becoming entitled to the fourth prize, IDs., and Mr. Mitchell to the fifth, 5s. Instead of taking the money, both handed it over to the funds of the society, amid loud plaudits from the audience. The Chairman announced that in con- sequence of many people being unable to gain admittance it had been decided to hold another ' Bee.' " It was not elicited till nearly the close of the contest that competitors were at liberty to spell a word in two ways when the word admitted of such a variation in spelling. On February 10 a " Bee " was held in St. Saviour's School 011 behalf of the new class-room about to be added to the building. As might be expected, there was a large and fashionable attendance, and the entertainment afforded a great deal of fun. " The interrogator was the Rev. J. H. Palmer, who was assisted by Mr. Easter, and the referees were the Rev. S. T. Wood and Dr. H. Colgate. The competitors numbered about 40, the sexes being pretty well balanced. Mr. F. W. H. Cavenish, J.P., presided, and expressed the hope that the ladies would beat the gentlemen. As a matter of fact this result was realised, the first and second prizes being carried off by ladies, and the third by a gentleman, thus giving a very exciting finish to the competition. The candidates were taken in two ' batches,' and the first word given was 'donkeys,' but this, though presumably selected with a malin intention, failed to serve as the pans asinorum for any of the competitors to pass. ' Oscillate ' destroyed the hopes of one young gentleman, and 'trousseaux ' overcame a lady ; another competitor came to grief at 'corduroy,' and 'euphemism ' sent a pair away. ' Philippic ' did dreadful havoc, clearing off no less than six, while ' reminiscence ' eliminated from the ranks two more, and 'purlieu' one, leaving six out of the twenty to compete in the final heat. The next ' score ' then came forward, but were not able to stand fire long. The second word, ' separate,' sent a lady to the rear, and at the fifth word, ' scroyle,' all succumbed but one. It was decided to give them another chance, and they were re-instated, the successful candidate, however, not being called upon to compete again. ' Gondolier ' and ' Giraffe ' were correctly spelled. ' Massacre ' proved fatal to one lady, 'etiquette' to one gentleman, and four competitors came to grief at 'seneschal.' The next word, 'finial,' was a finisher, clearing off all the remainder, and leaving only the candidate above mentioned to join the six others in the concluding contest. This created a good deal of excitement, as it was really a struggle between ladies and gentlemen. ' Inconceivable,' ' harangue,' and ' phlegmatic ' proved harmless, but at the following word 'sibylline' one lady beat a retreat. 'Reconnoitre' and 'cereal' were easily mastered, but ' kaleidoscope ' did sad havoc, sending away a trio of competitors to the ranks of those who had failed. This left two ladies and one gentleman, and then took place the contest for ' places.' This was not long left in doubt; 'parachute' took off the gentleman, and of the two ladies who were thus mistresses of the situation, one stumbled at the word 'chrysalis,' and the issue was as follows : Miss Colgate, 1st ; Miss Livingstone, 2nd ; Mr. Pidcock, 3rd. The prizes consisted of books, the first being Tennyson's poems. Everything went off very satisfactorily, if we exclude the mishap of one competitor, who had the misfortune, in stepping off the platform, to set his hair alight with the gas." Iii my diary, under date of February 21, 1900, I find an entry of having gone to a " Book Tea " at Mr. F. W. Wright's. This is a guasi-intellectual amusement CHAP. XII.] Book Teas. 155- which has something to recommend it. The players assemble at the house to which they are invited, and come provided with cards to pin on to themselves, so that when seated round a room in something like a circle all the cards shall be sufficiently conspicuous and legible. Each person has already chosen for his or her card some well-known book, the name of which is indicated by what in old-fashioned language used to be called a Rebus. Perhaps in order to make the matter quite clear, I had better quote the Imperial Dictionary definition of a Rebus : " Words or phrases written by figures or pictures of objects whose names resemble in sound those words, or the syllables of which they are composed ; an enigmatical representation of words by using figures or pictures instead of words ; thus ' I can see you ' might be expressed by figures or pictures of an eye, a can, the sea, and a ewe." Applied as a game bringing in books, the titles of the books have to be indicated by pictures or sketches, often, it must be confessed, rather far-fetched in character. For instance, the well-known novel Red Pottage, might be indicated by a little pot painted red with a picture by its side of an old woman. Again, They that walk in Darkness might be indicated by a picture of a black beetle, and so on. " f>g sports Hint i|r.ese arc all ijjtir raws beguileo." (GOLDSMITH.) " $ am a great fricub to public amusements, for tbcjr kttg $to$h from but." (L)R. JOHNSON.) [156] CHAPTER XIII. ECCLESIASTICAL. General Church Rates Sunday Bands Visits of the Diocesan Con- ference. The Parish Church. Its Restoration. Distinguished Preachers. Anecdotes of and by the Rev. T. Pitman. Tithe Commutation. Dr. Brodie. Clerical Vestments in the " Fifties." The Pitman Institute. St. MichaeVs Church. The Rev. H. B. Ottley's Vicariat. Proposals for a new Parish Church. Trinity Church. Its enlargements. Bishop S. Wilberforce's visit. Christ Church. Services there for the Military. Military Funeral. St. Saviour's Church. Circumstances which led to its erection. Controversy afterwards. Warning against Organists. St. John's Church. Remarkable groivth of Meads. St. Gregory's Chapel. St. Anne's Church. All Saints' Church. Intended to replace an Iron Church. Heart-burnings and litigation. All Souls' Church. Lady Victoria Wellesley's munificence. Difficulties owing to the soil. Patronage. Experiences of a Patron. St. Peter's Church. Replaced a temporary Church. 4( $n Iroumtring (Sotr, ano iioiug |ns foork gut f0ri|r all ig strrngtfr,."- (ANON.) " Honest plain foorfrs tris |)arislr ( ;mir Irausjes fer asottbtr." (CHAUCER.) When I first knew this Church it had the usual high pews of the period, and its interior arrangements will be almost, but not quite, understood by an examination of the picture, the original of which was taken in pencil Fig. 63. MARY'S CHURCH. from near the E. end by Miss Emma Brodie sometime about 1840. It is necessary to add that in the N. and S. aisles there were galleries, on one of which was the legend " Open and unappropriated seats erected by the Vicar, Anno 1818." There was then no Vestry, properly CHAP. XIIL] St. Mary's Church. 165 so-called, but the apartment of unknown origin and intention built against the E. window was used as a Vestry, access to it being had from inside the Church by passing through the Communion rails and past the S. end of the Communion table. The use as a Vestry of the enclosed space in what is sometimes called the :< Wilson " or " Cavendish " Chancel was of much later date ; whilst the user of the " Gilbert " Chancel as a Choir Vestry was much later still. The Church was repewed and considerably repaired in 1851 under the supervision of the well-known church architect, Carpenter. A wooden pulpit was replaced by the present stone one, but the old one was not very old. I possess a leaden tablet found in it which is thus inscribed : *' THIS PULPIT WAS MADE BY MOSES VINE, 1816, AGED 18 YEARS." In 1851, the pulpit was placed in the nave in a position near the Chancel arch. There was much controversy over pews. One difficulty which frequently crops up in such cases, namely, the existence of " Faculty Pews " was got over by Mr. J. D. Gilbert surrendering his two pews. Of course the new pews were viewed with disfavour by some of the old inhabitants. For instance my grandmother never entered the Church again, going ever afterwards to Trinity Church, but the culminating point of controversy was as to whether the new pews should have doors ! And there arose a pro- door and anti-door party ! The matter was finally left to the arbitration of Lord Burlington who decided in favour of doors. Whenever he was at Compton Place he was a regular attendant with his 3 sons, afterwards Lord Hartington and Lords Frederick and Edward Cavendish, and his one daughter Lady Louisa Cavendish, afterwards the wife of Admiral Egerton, M.P. The old-fashioned reading desk was replaced in 1851 by one of open iron- work painted blue with the desk arranged for the reader to face W. This was replaced in 1873 by a carved oak desk, given by Mrs. Cuthell as a memorial of her husband. Further changes in the seating of the Chancel were carried out in 1892 when Mr. Ottley became Vicar. The first Parish Clerk and Sexton who I remember was 166 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIII. named Hart, and he was succeeded by his son ; then came his grandson, whilst his great grandson now performs the kindred duties of Verger, there being no longer a Parish Clerk or a Sexton. I took a good deal of interest in the work of restoration in ]851, and being of an antiquarian turn of mind, carried home with me one day in great triumph, a substantial piece of wood with velvet and brass nails attached to it, which had formed part of a coffin dis- placed during the repairs, but the home authorities thought it was not a fitting object to be added to my embryo museum. Many years previously to this, an uncle of mine, Walter Brodie, in his thirst for knowledge, inspected a vault inside the Church which had been opened for a burial, and he fell in and could not get out, so was obliged to remain there till the arrival of the funeral party, when his shouts disclosed the fact that he did not wish to undergo premature burial. The Parish Church underwent further repairs in 1869, 1871 and 1872 at an aggregate cost of 3473, besides which at various times between 1853 and I860, 224 had been spent in the warming apparatus and gas fittings. Numerous painted windows had been put in at the expense of private individuals, and Lord R. Cavendish had defrayed the cost of reseating the chancel. The organ underwent many transformations. I think I may say, that counting the present one, I have known 4 organs : A small one in a W. gallery ; a larger one erected in 1854 on the floor of the tower ; that organ removed and reconstructed in the K. chancel ; and the existing very fine instrument put up in 1908, but artistically much disfigured by its row of plain gilded pipes : looking for all the world like dummies. The Parish Church has been so exhaustively described and discussed in Guide-Books and other books, that there is little that I need say on the subject here. I find from my Diaries that in the course of }^ears, I have heard in the pulpit, sermons by the following Clergy, who either when I heard them or later in their careers, had acquired some celebrity, but the number, it CHAP. XIII.] St. Mary's Church. 167 will be seen, is limited : it is the Churches in the new parts of the town which secure the " select preachers " who visit East-Bourne : Bishop Vidal (Sierra Leone) ; Bishop Welldon (Calcutta) ; Bishop Crowther (African Negro) ; Bishop Billing (Bedford) ; Bishop Ingham (Sierra Leone) ; Archbishop Trench (Dublin) ; Bishop Ridley (Caledonia) ; Bishop G. F. Browne (Stepney, now Bristol) ; Bishop Spalding (Colerado) ; Bishop E. R. Wilberforce (Chichester) ; Dean Champreys (Lichfield) ; Rev. B. W. Bucke (Lee) ; Rev. H. V. Elliott (Brighton) ; Rev. P. B. Power (Worthing). I have but very few anecdotes to relate. Here is one told me by the old Vicar, Mr. Pitman. On a certain Palm Sunday, a Clergyman who was assisting him, gave out the following notice : " Next Friday being Easter Sunday no ; I have told you wrong : next Sunday being Good Friday, there will be the special service appointed for that day." I have already made mention of Mr. Pitman from the civilian side of his career, but a few more words in connection with the Parish Church may come in here. In the reading desk and pulpit he was a power. His reading of the Lessons was something quite out of the common, even at a time when there were far more good readers amongst the Clergy than there are nowadays. When he was on chapters like some of those in the Books of the Kings, you almost felt you were in the presence of the Kings and the Prophets themselves. His sermons, without being remarkable, were plain and straight- forward, and you could not doubt that he believed and meant what he said. Their length was adjusted to a marvellously exact standard of 30 minutes. It would be exceedingly rare that he was half a minute more or half a minute less than the standard length. I cannot remember that I ever saw him, even near the end of his life, wear a pair of spectacles, and he lived to the age of 85, after having been Vicar of East-Bourne for 62 years. His temperament being always autocratic, his relations with the family of his predecessor were often rather strained. Not long after he came to East-Bourne in 168 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIII. 1810, my grandfather started a great innovation a Sunday Evening Service. This was such a success that the church was not large enough for the congregation, and so he put up at his own expense the galleries in the N. and S. aisles already mentioned. These were much appreciated by the poorer parishioners, who always occupied them, especially after the restoration of 1851 had concentrated all the free seats in the far-off S.W. corner of the S. aisle. These galleries were removed by Mr. Pitman, mero motu, without, I believe, any Faculty, that is, legal authority to do so. This was about 1868. The effect on the poor was that, having nowhere to go, many of them ceased to attend the church, which more than ever has now become a rich man's church, rather than a poor man's church. The entrance to the N. gallery was up what had been the staircase to the rood-loft in olden times. The S. gallery was reached by a staircase from the aisle direct. My grandfather died in June, 1828, as the result of being thrown out of his carriage^ coming down the hill which is now a part of Ocklynge Road. He had been offered some time previously, but had refused, the Bishopric of Chichester an offer presumably made partly because he was one of the King's Chaplains. Mr. Pitman took up his residence at East-Bourne in the winter of 1828, and signalised his arrival by discontinuing the evening service and dismantling the lamps. These he packed up and sent back to my grandmother, announcing that they would never be wanted again a prediction which proved painfully true, and by the effective operation of which the Wesleyan Chapel profited. Later in his life Mr. Pitman took a different view of the advantages or disadvantages of evening services, for in 1860 he invited my assistance in printing circulars and canvassing for subscriptions for fitting up the church with gas for a regular evening service every Sunday, assistance which my " progressive " ideas led me to give gladly. The service was inaugurated on Sunday, January 13, 1861. The entry in my diary (b) The Gentleman's Magazine records it as "gig." CHAP. XIII.] Rev. T. Pitman. 169 is : " Effect of lighting up the church excellent." The cost of the fittings was 128. Mr. Pitman really was a notable personality, who deserves more space than I can give him. He was essentially a " strong " man, and if he had not been a parson, he had some qualifications for being a Judge of the High Court. He was the only man whom Major JSL Willard could not manage. I will mention 2 stories which he told me. Up to the passing of the "Tithe Commutation Act " in 1835, tithes had for centuries been paid in kind, the Tithe-owner's collector going round the farms selecting at his choice whichever one of the 10 sheaves put together for the purpose, or the 10th pig, or the 10th whatever it was. There were obvious incon- veniences attaching to this system from the stand-point both of Tithe-owner and Tithe-payer, and in many places these 2 parties had entered into a voluntary .arrangement for the payment in cash of agreed sums. My grandfather had done this, and that arrangement was still subsisting in 1828, when Mr. Pitman became Vicar. I think the agreed sum for the East-Bourne tithes was some such sum as 600 a year. One of the farmers went to the new Vicar and said, " I wish to put an end to the arrangement which I had with Dr. Brodie and to let you have your tithe in the usual way in kind." The new Vicar said "All right, so let it be." A little time afterwards the farmer went to the Vicar and said, "" I think Mr. Vicar it is a pity to disturb the arrangement which Dr. Brodie set up and we farmers have agreed to .go on paying you in cash." The explanation of this volte-face was that the farmers had discovered on looking into the matter that the value in kind of their payments in respect of tithe would be not 600 a year but nearer 1000 a year ; the difference between the 2 sums being the amount which my grandfather had annually sacrificed to save trouble to himself, and to promote peace and goodwill in the Parish. The peace which began with Waterloo had, as is well-known, a most serious effect upon the trade and commerce of England. A rapid fall ensued in the value 170 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIII. of money, and great commercial distress overspread the country. Mr. Pitman often told me that a stated weekly allowance from the overseers out of the Poor Rate, of money and loaves of bread, came gradually to be regarded as the regular and proper supplement to the ordinary weekly wages of every farm-labourer. This state of things lasted up to and beyond the passing of the " Poor Law Amendment Act, 1834," which revolutionised the Poor Law system of the Country, amongst other things by grouping parishes into " Unions," and establishing Boards of Guardians, instead of every parish doing its own Poor Law work in its own way. Mr. Pitman once related me the following significant incident. He was waited upon by a coastguard who asked him to take care of the large sum of 100 until such times as he was due to go back to Ireland to his home. Mr. Pitman asked the man, who was a Roman Catholic, why he came to a Protestant clergyman to take care of his money instead of putting it into the hands of the Romish priest of his parish in Ireland. The man's reply was " Plaize, your Riverence, I think the money will be safer in your hands than in the hands of my priest. He would find some excuse for diminishing the amount before it reached myself or my wife." Mr. Pitman was very conservative in the matter of vestments, so naturally he would not patronise any of the illegal Romish vestments which many of the Clergy wear in these days ; not even the " moderate " but nevertheless illegal black stole. He stuck to the tippet or scarf. Of course he wore the bands which one now sees only round the necks of barristers, and also of course the surplice in the reading-desk and the black gown in the pulpit. Bands went out, more or less, about 1870, the all-round clerical collars being a sort of subterfuge substitute for them. The black gown was so universally recognised in the " Fifties " and " Sixties " as the vestment de rigueur that a new gown was an ordinary and frequent presentation to a clergyman whom his- cougregation wished to honour. I remember that Mr. Pierpoint, whilst Incumbent of Trinity Church, was so CHAP. XIIIJ The Parish Clerk. 171 testimonialised. Black gloves were frequently seen during service on clerical hands, and not unfrequently were worn by barristers in Court. I remember that Serjeant Mereweather, Q.C., a Counsel much employed in Railway Bills, wore them. The Clerk was a very important personage in most churches. He, too, in town churches, wore a black gown, and it was his duty everywhere, in town and country alike, to lead the Responses and to give out the Hymns when any were sung. Up till about 1850 Tate and Brady Psalms were in general use, with perhaps a small local collection of Hymns. There was only one Hymnal at all common in the Church of England then. It was generally known as the " Mitre Hymn-Book, " from the fact of a mitre being stamped on the cover, but " Mitre " was no part of the title, which was : " Psalms and Hymns adapted to the Services of the Church of England." The editor was the Rev. W. J. Hall, a well-known London Clergyman, one of Her Majesty's Chaplains, and from its being dedicated to the Bishop of London (Blomfield) it was largely used. It was used for many years in East-Bourne Parish Church. Clerks and Clergy when they gave out a hymn always did so in these words : " Let us sing to the Praise and Glory of God Hymn ." Previously to the introduction of the " Mitre " book into East-Bourne there was in circulation a smaller collection of only a few dozen hymns, compiled by my grandfather, and bearing 011 the title-page words to the effect that it was for use in " East Bourn " (sic) Church. There was once a curate at the old Church, whose name was Blank. Mr. and Mrs. Blank were much liked by the parishioners, and often came back to stay in East-Bourne after taking up their residence in Suffolk. Sometime after their departure many years ago Mrs. Blank and one of her daughters came to East-Bourne and this is what happened. They drove in a cab from the Shoreditch station of the G.E.R. to London Bridge ; and inquiring of cabby the fare, he said it was Is. Qd, (N.B. Distance 1^ miles). When she arrived at East-Bourne Mrs. Blank said to her hostess, " Our cabby 172 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XIII. was such a nice man ; so civil and pleasant ; he has promised to look out for us on our return journey and he will convey us back to Shoreditch for the same charge of 7s. Qd. I am to wave a pocket handkerchief out of the window when I arrive at London Bridge Station ! ! " I need not quote to a 20th Century reader the London cab fare for " under 2 miles " plus a few pence for luggage and pourboire. Mr. Pitman was very particular that his school staff should be good disciplinarians, and should stick to their work. Accordingly, he would never allow his Head Teacher, Mr. Joseph Welch, to become a member of the Town Council ; and it was not until a new Vicar came on the scene that the said Teacher obtained municipal honours, and eventually acquired an Alderman's gown and great fame as an orator. During many years, one of the " events " of the summer was the Annual School Feast on the Links for all the children of the National Schools. Mr. Pitman and his family managed them, and right well he did it. I find that my earliest attendance was in 1852, and that between then and 1888, I was present at 15 of such treats. They were held in the last week in July or the first fortnight in August. They were discontinued soon after the last named date as the numbers of children had grown so great as to render one general Treat for all the schools of the town too big an undertaking. The finale was always a scramble for Dutch cheeses down the steep part of the Links. Mr. Pitman died in 1890. His long Vicariate of nearly 62 years is commemorated by the " Pitman Institute " in Church Street, erected at a cost of 1347. Extras and furnishing brought up the total cost to about 1600. It was opened on October 21, 1892. The idea has been mooted that the Old Parsonage House 011 the N. side of the Churchyard should be acquired and fitted up for such Church purposes and parochial business as cannot conveniently be dealt with at the Pitman Institute. I hope some clay to see this excellent idea carried out. CHAP. XIII.] St. Michael's Church. 173 The wonderful developement of building operations in the district attached to the Parish Church long ago rendered necessary the building of a new Church, and that now known as St. Michael's is such, taking the place of a temporary Church which occupied an adjacent site. The building of St. Michael's, the first portion of which dates from 1900, might have been anticipated by some 30 years if Mr. Pitman had thought fit to approve of the acceptance of the sum of 2000 offered in 1874 for the purpose of starting a new Church. The offer was made on behalf of a clergyman named Pierce who had been assisting Mr. Pitman for a considerable length of time and who was proposed as the first Incumbent. Fig. 65. THE OLD PARSONAGE, Near St. Mary's Church. If only as a matter of history I must not pass over two very visionary schemes put forth by a man of excellent enterprise and visions who succeeded Mr. Pitman as " Vicar of East-Bourne," in 1890, the Rev. H. B. Ottley. I here only refer to Church-building visions, but there were others which must remain in my possession either in memory or manuscript. Mr. Ottley proposed to supply the wants of Ocklynge by a magnificent Church in Mill Road at the corner of Carew Road. He 174 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIII. exhibited to the public plans prepared by Sir A. Blomfield to the tune of 12,000. The structure was intended to be of a very ambitious character, but for that reason it did not "take," and the scheme soon fell into oblivion. Mr. Ottley's other scheme was even more ambitious. It was to build on to the Parish Church a new nave of such dimensions that the old nave should become architecturally an aisle ! It is not necessary for me to occupy space in recording the fate of this scheme. TRINITY CHURCH. " foasi imjjmsi0us iriir |ris js.era.cms vankt, lie alfoags kt$t Iris Hock afoake." (Peter Pindar.} The history of Trinity Church has already been hinted at in another Chapter. As originally built it was called by the modest name of " Trinity Chapel," and when I first knew it was simply a rectangular building with a small recess no more than about 20ft. wide and 15ft. deep, from back to front, which served as a chancel, the total accommodation being about 450 seats. The original legal status of the building was that of a " Chapel-of-Ease " to the Parish Church. It was served .as such by a Curate of the mother Church until 1847, when it was elevated into an independent district of the kind then legally known as a Perpetual Curacy ; a Curate of the mother Church, the Rev. R. W. Pierpoint (appointed Curate in 1846), was the first Incumbent. The Parsonage House was built in 1849, and I assisted, as a humble and not very industrious small boy, my uncle, F. Brodie, who superintended the laying out of the garden. The Church, with its " three-decker " pulpit, etc., long remained unaltered, but when the growth of East-Bourne, as a watering-place coming into note, made the necessity of further church accommodation a matter of urgency, aisles were thrown out on both sides. Fig. 63, on Plate XIX, is taken from an engraving of the Church, dated May, 1855, with the aisles added, and shewing the Church and the Parsonage standing on a CHAP. XIII.] Trinity Church. 175 vast open space of grass land, with only one house in the far distance which is intended either for Oak Cottage or The Grotto, one of 2 small houses then standing in solitary loneliness on what is now Sussex Gardens and Terminus Road. This engraving shews the corner of the W. wall of the garden of Rosemount, Trinity Place, which as a roadway did not then exist, the grass land spoken of above running up to Rosemount and nearly up to the adjacent house, known as Norfolk Lodge, which belonged to Lieut. Baugh, R.N. The house adjoining, now called Pine Grange, bore in those days a different name. It was Trinity Lodge, and belonged to a Captain Washington, whose daughters sold it to Dr. G. A. Jeffery. The Washingtons claimed relationship to the great American statesman. The Rosemount of 1855, which had belonged to a London solicitor named Jones, has ceased to exist, having been pulled down and the name and garden transferred to what once was Frohsdorf House, Victoria Place. Over the entrance to this house the first owner had inscribed the words : " Every house is builded by some man, but he that built all things is God." The pressure on the existing church accommodation in the new part of the town was first of all met by Mr. Pierpoint instituting special Sunday services in Trinity School, episcopally licensed for the purpose ; by the building of Christ Church as regards its nave in 1859 ; and by the erection of the three amorphous W. ends of Trinity Church. It was to raise money for this, I think, that a bazaar at which I assisted was held at Trinity Schools, August 15 17, 1861, and which resulted in takings amounting to 225. This was nearly all net profit, because bazaar managers did not in those days waste the money they do now in " expenses." There was another bazaar for the same purpose at the same place on September 2 3, 1862, but finding it very dull, I went off each afternoon to cricket at Compton Place. Mr. Pierpoint, the first Incumbent, remained such until his resignation in May 1878. During an inter- regnum before the appointment of the Rev. W. A. Bathurst in 1878 the Parish was in charge of a man 176 Old Memories of East-Bourne, [CHAP. XIII. who even then had made his mark in the Church, the Rev. C. H. Banning, at that time Vicar of Strood in Kent, a powerful Evangelical preacher. Efforts were made to secure him as Mr. Pierpoint's successor but for reasons which I suppose he thought to be good Mr. Pitman (patron as Vicar of the Parish Church) did not comply with the representations made to him.. Mr. Pierpoint resigned after an incumbency of 30 years deservedly respected, and his successor held the living for nearly the same length of time. During his incum- bency the large Vestry on the S. side was added in 1884.. The wonderfully successful architectural changes- which have been accomplished in Trinity Church by the present Incumbent, Mr. Kerry, is modern history which is not within the scope of this book. The pulling down of the tower reminds me, however, of a piece of ancient history. On an occasion in the " Fifties " one of the pinnacles of the tower was struck by lightning and destroyed, and the rain-water pipe shattered. The Churchwardens of the period proposed to replace it by a pinnacle to match the untouched three but of wood. Mr. Pitman, however, vetoed the proposal, as contrary to Ecclesiastical Law, and he was right. Bishop Samuel Wilberforce of Oxford visited East- Bourne in the " Fifties," occupying, at any rate on one of his visits, 24 Marine Parade. He preached more than once for Mr. Pierpoint though the "views" of the 2 clerics were by no means identical. The versatile talents of the Right Reverend Prelate did not always secure his being appreciated. One of the longest sermons I ever heard in my life was preached in Trinity Church on October 26, 1873. It lasted 49 minutes. The preacher was the Rev. F. Bourdillon, the well-known writer of " Pi " books. It was sure to have been a good sermon, but certainly was a trifle too long. CHRIST CHURCH. Christchurch was consecrated on July 29, 1859, and I suppose that there are not many persons remaining ^ > - Ul CHAP. X1IL] Christ Church. 177 who, like myself, were present at the ceremony, which was performed by the Bishop of Chichester (Gilbert). The building at the first was even less like a church than Trinity had been ; for it was a simple rectangle contained in 4 bare walls without chancel or porch. Just as Trinity had at the first been a Chapel-of-Ease to St. Mary's, served by the curate of the Mother Church so Christchurch stood until 1864 to Trinity. On February 3 of that year a district carved out of Trinity Parish was assigned to it and the Rev. W. H. Lloyd, who had been curate-in-charge, was appointed the first Incumbent. He was a popular and, on the whole, a successful little man. He subsequently left to become a British Chaplain in South America and was replaced by an Irishman named Irwin whose only success was to empty the Church which Mr. Lloyd had filled. As the military establishments in East-Bourne stand within the limits of Christchurch Parish that Church has always been used as the Garrison Church, though before it was built the soldiers were marched to a special afternoon service at Trinity Church. I may mention in this connection that I once attended the military funeral of a gunner in the Royal Artillery who was buried in the churchyard of the old Church. The finale of the ceremony, the firing of a volley of blank cartridge, adds greatly to the solemnity of such scenes. ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH. " U* fcra tarui to sgtxk ghin anir to fyt gmcgost." (Much Ado about Nothing.) The necessity of another new Church in East-Bourne had in the year 1865 become very manifest a small Iron Church then standing where Hard wick Road now enters South Street being wholly insufficient. The Town had grown, and the number of visitors had largely increased as the result, paradoxical as it may sound, of the scarlet fever epidemic of 1863. The effect of the scare was on this wise. It kept away, in the summer of 1864, many N 178 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XIII. of the habitual visitors of previous years. The lodging- house keepers in despair lowered their rents materially, and a new class of visitor, despising fever risks (which were really very small then), flocked, to the Town and helped to fill the Churches to overflowing. About the same time Sir Charles Locock, the well-known London Doctor, whose eldest son had married Mr. Pitman's 2nd daughter 5 years previously, offered to start a Building Fund for a new Church with a donation of 1 000 if a younger son of his were appointed the first Incumbent. Nothing came of this offer, and the field was open for new proposals. One soon came in the form of an offer from Mr. George Whelpton, a London business man, to build a complete new Church and Parsonage-house if a suitable site could be obtained on the Duke of Devon- shire's land. This offer, in spite of its completeness and munificence, was not acceptable to Mr. Pitman because the first Incumbent of the proposed Church was to be the founder's son, the Rev. H. R. Whelpton, then a beneficed Clergyman in the diocese of Salisbury. It was ascertained that Mr. Whelpton was " High Church," and that was sufficient to make Mr. Pitman decline the proposal, and Mr. G. Whelpton made at first no further attempt to go on with the matter. The facts just stated happened to be made known to me, and I took the liberty of entering into a correspondence on my own account with the Rev. H. R. Whelpton, to whom I was then personally unknown. The anti-High Church reasons which swayed the Vicar, though in my opinion good reasons up to a certain point, did not justify the Town of East-Bourne being deprived of a completely-equipped new Church with its accompanying parochial organisations, at a moment when there was a grievous deficiency of Church accommodation a deficiency which was daily increasing and which nobody was in sight to supply if the refusal of Mr. G. Whelpton's handsome offer was persisted in. I am glad to say that my intervention had the effect which I desired it should have ; the offer was revived ; Mr. Pitman was persuaded to see the matter in a new light, and the Church was built and consecrated on CHAP. XIII.] St. Saviour's Church. 179 January 30, 1867. I was sorry under the peculiar circumstances not to be present, though invited, but I was unavoidably detained in London. The new Incumbent's troubles did not end with the consecration of the Church. The building plans had of course to receive the approval of Mr. Pitman, and when he found that the Reading-desk was to be in the chancel in juxtaposition to the choir stalls, he did not approve. He insisted on a Reading-desk out in the nave, and the plans were altered accordingly, and a Reading-desk was duly erected in the desired place. It was one thing to secure the construction of the Reading-desk by a carpenter and another thing to secure that the minister should use it. As a matter of fact, the minister did not see fit to use it, and after a time, as it occupied a space on the floor which it was thought would be more profitably employed if given up to the congregation, the Reading-desk was removed, and the empty space filled up by additional ordinary seats. The later history of St. Saviour's Church does not involve any matters with which I was brought into contact, and the only moral lesson which I suggest should be drawn from that later history, is that Clergy and Congregations should beware of engaging the services of great " swells " as Organists. Some years after the Church was opened, they took on the services of a " Mus. Doc.," for whom a 600 organ was not good enough. He decoyed the authorities into a 2400 organ and the results were St. Saviour's Church was on Trinity Sunday, May 27, 1877, the locale of the only Ordination ever held in East-Bourne. On that day the Bishop of Chichester (Durnford) ordained 8 Deacons and 6 " Priests," none of them however connected with East-Bourne. ST. JOHN'S CHURCH. If St. Saviour's Church was in a certain sense built too late, that is to say, after a congregation had arrived to fill it, the picture of Meads in 1870 would suggest that St. John's Church was built too soon, but there were reasons for this. The hamlet of Meads had never had a 180 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XIII. church when St. John's was consecrated on September 23, 1869, and there was no other provision for Divine Worship up there but Sunday services of sorts in a small and inconvenient schoolroom. Dr. Gilbert, Bishop of Chichester, was the consecrating Bishop ; and it was, I think, his last appearance in East-Bourne, for he died some months later. At any rate, it was the last occasion on which I saw him in East-Bourne. The Church when built occupied an open waste, and seemed nowhere. Strangers viewing it from afar might have been pardoned for criticising an expenditure of money of which the- least that could be said was that it seemed premature. But how things have altered since ! Now it is the very centre of an immense expanse closely packed with large residential houses, and though twice enlarged is evidently not large enough for the demands put upon it. Until the School-room Service was instituted, the inhabitants who wished for Church privileges, had either to tramp across the Links to the Old Town, or along the cliff to Trinity Church. If the Church of England did little for them in those days, Dissent did nothing at all. The modern history of Meads may be said to commence with the opening of the All Saints* Convalescent Hospital in 1869, the same year that the Church was consecrated. Up till that time, Meads was- a perfectly out-of-the-world sort of place, scarcely known except to passers-by such as tourists going to or from Beachy Head. Its few inhabitants were farm-labourers, lime-burners, fishermen, or Coastguards, or, probably (a generation earlier) smugglers. The fact that the great Convalescent Hospital had been put there, perhaps suggested to some people that Meads had a future, whilst others believed that the site of the Hospital was chosen because the locality was so entirely out of the way, that it never would have a future so far as the growth of East-Bourne as a fashionable watering-place was concerned. However, be that as it may, my aunt, Mrs. Grace (mentioned elsewhere under the name of Miss Emma Brodie), undertook the arduous task of collecting the money required for building a complete Church with CHAP. XIII.] St. John's Church. 181 Parsonage-house attached. She met with success to the extent of 6997. Since her time, a very large additional amount has been spent in re-casting the whole plan of the Church. The Duke of Devonshire gave the site and 1000. The patronage is vested in 5 Trustees who are expected to belong to the Evangelical school. There is an ecclesiastical mystery attaching to Meads which nobody has ever solved, and my endeavours to elucidate it have been wholly unsuccessful. In the old Guide-book, published in 1787, which I have already quoted, there occurs the following passage : " Near the road leading down to the chalk cliffs [Holywell] are the remains of a building called St. Gregory's Chapel (so named in Letters Patent establishing the Corporation of Pevensey), and the fields and hill are now distinguished by that name. The bells belonging to it are said to have been carried to France, and now actually used at Rouen or Dieppe in Normandy." I remember having had a conversation with Mr. Caldecott on the subject in 1868, and he told me that he had heard this Chapel spoken of by old inhabitants who had known a remnant of the ruins, with brambles growing around it, and that one piece of ornamental stone which had come from the Chapel was then in his museum. This implies that the foundations had remained till the beginning of the 19th Century. It is not permissible to imagine that this is fiction, because a tract of land over which, or about over which, the highways called St. John's Road, Bolsover Road, and Buxton Road now run, was certainly called for parochial purposes within my recollection " Hobby Bank " and " Chapel Piece," or " Chapel Bank," but the situation thus defined hardly tallies with the quotation from the Giiide-Book that the Chapel was " near the road leading down to the chalk cliffs," unless another road than the Waterworks road is meant. It is to be regretted, under the circumstances, that St. John's Church was not called " St. Gregory's Church," for I think that old names and associations should be perpetuated and kept alive as often as possible. 182 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIII. ST. ANNE'S CHURCH. Hitherto my mention of building operations has chiefly had reference to the Duke of Devonshire's land and other lands more or less near the sea, but Mr. C. D. Gilbert's estate and the large amount of modern building on it must not be forgotten or ignored. Speaking quite generally, his estate lies in and around, especially to the N. and the E. of, the Old Town, and includes an indefinite area which goes by the vague name of Upperton. Building hereoii began somewhat later than it did on the Duke of Devonshire's estate but when once it made a start it proceeded apace. As it has happened that by far the larger proportion of the modern houses built on Mr. Gilbert's estate have been either large private residences or villas of various sizes, it has not been found necessary to- provide elementary schools, and a complete new Church with a parish room for meetings has thus far been all that has been wanted. St. Anne's Church consecrated on November 26, 1882, is the Church of the Gilbert Estate. I was present on the occasion. Like other churches in East-Bourne, and elsewhere, at the first it was only a Nave and a little more, but subsequent additions have transformed it into what may be called a Church complete in all its parts. Mr. Gilbert's contributions towards it and the steady support of well-to-do congre- gations have rendered unnecessary any frequent or impassioned appeals to the charity of Church-folk at large. The position of the Church in the middle of Upperton Gardens and surrounded by roads on all 4 sides is an ideal situation for a Church. ALL SAINTS' CHURCH. " fjrflsjrmtg tnalucs frmtbs: airfrersiijj irirs ilmn." (PUBLICS SYRUS.) With this Church is unfortunately associated a great many heart-burnings and a law-suit. To under- stand the history, it is necessary to mention that in 1873, a temporaiy Iron Church was erected in Burlington Place as an overflow place of worship to Trinity Church. CHAP. XIII.] All Saints' Church. 183 After it had been successfully used for some years, there arrived on the scene a clergyman from Cambridgeshire, the Rev. J. H. Qsill, who after ministering for some time at the Iron Church (called St. Paul's), was encouraged and allowed to take upon himself the responsibility of getting up a new Church to be the Church of a new district carved out of the old districts attached to Trinity and St. Saviour's Churches, and to be placed in Wilmington Square. The site was shifted to Carlisle Road on a suggestion (carefully kept secret) that a Church in Wilmington Square would be close enough to hinder the Devonshire Park being used at some future time for Sunday amusements. The Church was built and consecrated under the name of All Saints' Church, but the Iron Church was not closed, and that was the origin of the heart-burnings. I use that word as the mildest applicable, because having been closely associated with Mr. Usill all through the work up to and after the consecration of the Church, I have a perfectly clear and distinct recollection of what Mr. Usill's opinions were. The litigation alluded to had not directly to do with the Iron Church, but was a matter affecting the boundaries of the new district 011 the St. Saviour's side. I was not mixed up with that, and therefore do no more than name the matter as having gone into Court before Vice- Chancellor Malins on January 13, 1881. Mr. Usill was an admirable church financier, and his Building Committee occupied back seats all through the business. At the completion of the church as a whole there was not enough money left to build the tower, but instead of leaving the site of the tower in the condition of a level piece of land, or rather, pathway, as it would have been, Mr. Usill decided to start the tower, carry it up a few feet, and leave it, palpably unfinished and untidy. This had the desired effect. A charitable passer-by might not have thought that a tower was intended or wanted, but the fragment of a tower started was highly suggestive, and it suggested to a benevolent lady to give 3000 to finish it. It Avas at one time contemplated to raise the foundations of the church so 184 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIII. that the floor should be level with the roadway, but this was abandoned when it was found that the cost would be 500 extra. Nevertheless, the economy is to be regretted on architectural grounds. The original cost of the church up to the time it was opened was 10,788. The foundation stone was laid on November 1, 1877, and the Consecration took place on June 11, 1879, by the Bishop of Chichester (Durnford). After the Consecration Mr. Usill invited a large number of friends to luncheon at one of the hotels. The only speakers, besides the host, were the Duke of Devonshire, the Bishop of Chichester, Mr. Howard, Mr. Pitman, and Mr. Streatfeild. The Duke said that the oocasion reminded him of a similar luncheon given at Mr. Gilbert's house 42 years previously to celebrate the erection of Trinity Church, which, when built in 1837, was, he said, regarded by everybody concerned as the first and last additional Church ever likely to be required at East-Bourne ! ALL SOULS' CHURCH. " ^ofax antr mcdutjcss Totcomt a C&urr^maw fatter t|ait ambition." (King Henry VIII.} The history of this Church both as regards its origin and also as regards its construction from a builder's and architect's point of view, presents some interesting features. In order to explain matters, I must make a little prefatory statement. For many years there hovered over East-Bourne (no other word would as well describe it) a kind and good lady of noble birth, Lady Victoria Long Wellesley, sister of the 4th and last Earl of Mornington. I knew her for many years, the first mention of her name in my diary being under the date of December 28, 1859. The difficulty I always had was to know T where to write to her, because I knew her at Bolney, near Cuckfield ; at The Terrace, East-Bourne ; at Brunswick House, East-Bourne ; at West Stoke, near Chichester ; at Portland Place ; and finally at Bourne- mouth. At a date which I am unable to specify more CHAP. XIIL] All Souls Church. 185 nearly than " about 1875," she notified to Mr. Pierpoint, as the Incumbent of Trinity Church, her desire to build a Church as a memorial to two old aunts, the Misses Tilney-Long. Unfortunately or fortunately (I suppose it may be looked at either way) these ladies were not dead, and as it turned out they lived an inconveniently long time, I mean " inconvenient " from an East-Bourne point of view. Meanwhile East-Bourne was growing rapidly ; more Church accommodation was an increasingly-urgent want, and Mr. Pierpoint felt the necessity of other Church- building operations being put in hand. Eventually, however, Lady Victoria's wishes could be fulfilled, and the foundation-stone of the Church now known as " All Souls' Church " was laid on June 14, 1881. Lady Victoria Wellesley invited a party to luncheon on the occasion, and one of the guests to whom she introduced me was a man who has since come to the front rank of statesmen her cousin, Mr. Walter Long, M.P. It is the foundations that I alluded to when I said there was a feature in the history of this Church of special interest to architects and builders. The actual site of the Church, and all the land around it, had been quite within memory a mere marsh which had been drained no more than I suppose a century previously, and then by no means very effectually. In other words the enormous weight of masonry of a complete Church, with a high tower, was going to be placed on a morass. The foundations therefore had to be of an unusually elaborate and expensive character. I possess no figures to support this statement, but Plate XXXVI. is evidence of it. I was present at the laying of the foundation-stone, and the official party assembled for the purpose had to take their stations on a wooden staging from which they could see the footings down below at a depth of, I should say, nearly 20ft. However, the work, including the whole Church, was executed regardless of expense, and I have never heard of any suspicion of settlement. The cost of the whole undertaking, including the Vicarage, the Schools, and the Parish Room, was never made public, but I believe it did not fall much short of 40,000. The 186 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIII.. Church was consecrated on July 6, 1882, "by the Bishop of Chi chester (Durnford). Not only has the Church as a building a history, but the patronage has likewise a history. Bishop Durnford tried very hard to persuade Lady Victoria to hand over the patronage to him as Bishop of the Diocese, but she would not hear of it. She told me, and I think most probably she told him, that she had no confidence in episcopal patrons. This will be better understood when I say that she subscribed in her life-time 1000 to the National Church League under its original name of the National Protestant Church Union ; and left it a legacy of the same amount. She was indeed a loyal and attached member of the Church of England, satisfied with the Prayer-Book and the XXXIX. Articles, and with a deep aversion to Romanising Ritualism. Accordingly she decided to keep the patronage in her own hands, at any rate for a time. After her death, in March 1897, I found to my extreme surprise that she had bequeathed the advowson to me, forgetting apparently that she had in her life-time invited me to become one of 5 trustees of the Church, and to suggest to her 4 other friends or acquaintances of mine, who could be relied upon to carry out her wishes and principles. This design was successfully accomplished, though I failed to find a second East-Bourne resident to be, with myself, a local trustee. That point has, however, automatically been met by one of the original trustees having been Canon Goodwyu, who has since become resident in East-Bourne, by reason of his having become Vicar. The original trustees were the Hon. and Rev. W. T. Rice, Mr. Penruddocke, Canon Goodwyn, the Rev. H. P. Stokes, and myself, and there has been no change since. Only once has there been a vacancy for us to fill up,, and that vacancy (caused by the resignation of the Rev. J. B. Fletcher) gave me my first insight, and a very illuminating one, into the customs and ideas of clergy desiring preferment. As senior trustee, the applications came in the first instance to me. They CHAP. XIII.] All Souls' Church. 187 were 54 in number, and represented every conceivable shade of Church " Views," beginning with Membership' of the Confraternity of the Blessed Sacrament (one candidate), and Membership of the English Church Union (7 candidates). I need hardly say that these were not reserved for further consideration. Eventually we reduced the 54 to 4, and then to 2, and then to 1. It was a tedious, laborious, and anxious business, but I am thankful to say that I believe that under the Providence of God we obtained the right man in the Rev. E. F. Eliot and his too-hardworking wife, Lady Kathleen Eliot, whose father was one of the greatest, perhaps the greatest, Lord Chancellor who ever presided over Law in England and kept the Sovereign's conscience. ST. PETER'S CHURCH. The overcrowding, which had become chronic, of St. Saviour's Church rendered it necessary that steps should be taken to obtain some relief, and accordingly there was erected in 1878, at a cost of about 1400, a temporary building in a field behind the Town Hall which was designated " St. Peter's Church." It was opened on June 7, 1878, and owed its origin chiefly to the exertions of the Rev. J. Howard Palmer, of Ashamp- stead School. This building was used for about 17 years when it was closed and bought by the Corporation/ 01 /'' the congregation transferring themselves to the new and permanent St. Peter's Church erected at the Granville- Road corner of Meads Road. During its earlier ^years' the temporary Church was chiefly served by the Rev. A. N. Obbard, whose quaint and unconventional sermons secured for him a large amount of appreciation. When he left in 1883 after preaching his Farewell Sermon, on February 11, he was followed by the Rev. H. R. Alder who had returned from South Africa where he had been Dean of Cape Town. I have said that this temporary Church had been erected in a field. This is a literal truth. Access to it was had by a public footpath which (a) And re-named " Grove Hall." First of all, it was used as a Secondary School for Girls, and now is let for meetings or any purpose. 188 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIII. went forwards through 3 very large fields to the Old Town, and there were no buildings whatever anywhere near the Clmrch. The shops on the W. side of Grove Road had not been built, and The Grove, the Old Vestry- room, and the Police Buildings (all mentioned elsewhere) liad not yet been pulled down. It had been hoped by many that the 3 fields in question might have been .secured as a public park. (See Chapter XVII. post.} The permanent St. Peter's Church was the outcome of a gift by the Duke of Devonshire of the site and 5000, and his Architect (Mr. Henry Currey) supplied the designs. Mr. Currey had not been previously known .as a Church Architect, and the windows externally of the Church are not universally admired. I say no more on the subject as I was not connected with the building of the Church in any way. " *t tigt matter lot gonir, anb % maiuu* trfit it." (C. H. SPURGEON.) 44 gcttrr a little torll-tagt t^au a 0000 faal forgotten." (Bisnop LATIMER.) " ^ brrse mag fiut> Ijim Jfolmi a smmm flirs." (G. HERBERT.) [189] CHAPTER XIV. EDUCATIONAL. Private Schools in 1851 and earlier. Smock Frocks. Mr. J. A. Bown.- Commissariat arrangements. Private Schools in the New Town. Elementary Schools. Great efforts made by the Church of England. Very little done by Dissenters. Unsuccessful attempts to force on a School Board. Great Fancy Fair in 1895. County and Borough Councils as Education Authorities. " <|t is roranton far ibt goungtr sxrrt to hck oisrwtion." (Hamlet.} " QJli/t mow fat sluog fyt more fat bisrobtr our ignoranas." (ANON.) ' |pB0 jroixr stuoies ; mintr jrour frusiiuss ; anfr bx a 0,000 CJmstiau." (DR. JOHNSON.) " 3/frt forming j?.c|r00I-&ojr, foii|r Iris satdErrl autr seining morimto, fa, lifef a snail unfoillinxjlg to sr|ool." (As you like it.} DURING the first half of the 19th Century, there was a school at East-Bourne which had a certain amount of repute outside the parish. From first to last, as far as I can make out, it must have been carried on under successive proprietors for fully 70 years. The locus in quo is now prosaically known as 43a Church Street. It bore in its latest years the name of The Gables, but in my time and earlier, it had no name at all. The first proprietor was a clergyman named Coutts. He was followed by another clergyman named Broome. At Mr. Broome 's death, his widow carried it on for a time, and then it passed into the hands of a Mr. J. A. Bown, who had been Mrs. Broome's chief usher, and who was my master when I attended the school. Then came Mr. D. Stroud, and next to him the end. I was a pupil there for a short time in 1849, for some months in 1851, and for nearly the whole of 1852. In those days it was what might be called a " mixed " school, using the word however not in the sense in which it is officially employed by the Board of Education. My particular 190 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIV. friend was R. Pinnock, a son of the Vicar of East Dean. Another friend was E. Boys, the youngest son of the farmer who was the tenant of the Gildredge Farm. Boys's elder brother was in the Navy and occasionally visited us in his smart uniform. The younger brother always came to school in a white smock frock. Smock frocks were common in those days ; it was exceptional to see farm-labourers wearing any other garment. Old Mr. Hurst of the Star Brewery was amongst those who in. the higher ranks sported smock frocks. Two other boys at the school were John and George Gosden, sons of the Rodmill farmer, who built Cornfield Terrace and did other things. To go back to my school Mr. Bown was great at the three R's. He insisted on boys writing a good hand ; .and the progress made by them in writing and at the same time in arithmetic, was put to the test at stated intervals by their being required to write out in what were called " cyphering books," long sums, using fine steel pens and forming the figures with the utmost care. My writing during those years was very bad, and remained at a very low standard till I went to school at Brighton some years later. At Mr. Bown's Academy (to use the title then in vogue), there was much Latin and Greek (which I declined to patronise more than I could help) ; very little history, geography or French. My ideas of education in those days were of the "Modernist" type, and I concentrated my attention on French and dancing. The French master was a Swiss. I took a fancy to him, and he took a fancy to me, and between us there arose a great proficiency in French on my part which I have never regretted. I was only a day-boarder, which was in a sense satisfactory as minimising the evils of the commissariat system in vogue. I only dined there. Dinner consisted of two courses, pudding first and meat afterwards. I commend this system to all School-masters' wives Avho wish to do things on the cheap. The composition of most of the puddings consisted, with much regularity, of flour, suet and water, with a fourth ingredient which might be currants or jam HAP. XIV.] Old Private Schools. 191 or treacle. When it was a case of currants, the resulting pudding bore the local name of " putty-and-flies," elsewhere sometimes called " spotted dog." Mr. Bown was twice married, and a sister of his first wife is still .alive in East-Bourne. Before my time I fancy that the social status of the pupils was higher than it was in my day. At any rate, when my old friend Sir John Lennard of Wickham Court, Kent, came to see us one day some years ago, he told me he had been at the school, and wished me to take him round to see the buildings as they then were, which of course I did. The other private schools in East-Bourne between 1850 and 1860 were kept by the Misses Shoosmith, The >Grove (small boys) ; Mr. Hopley, Grand Parade (big boys) ; the Misses James, Grand Parade (girls) ; and the Misses Martin, The Susans (girls of commercial rank). A brother of the Misses Martin (Spencer Martin) kept a grocer's shop at the Old Town, exactly opposite the Lamb ; it was pulled down not long ago to cut off the corner. The contrast between then and now in the number of schools in East-Bourne is marvellous. I know not the present number, but as far back as 1894 they had grown to more than 200, a fact which I found out when acting .as Secretary of the Elementary Schools Extension Committee. I have nothing to say about the Oxford and Cambridge Local Examinations except to commend them. The late Sir William Harcourt came down to give .away the prizes on June 19, 1875, and made a speech a yard and a half long. I remember almost colliding with him and his eldest son, a boy of 12, at the stile near the Manor House. The said boy is now the Rt. Hon. L. Harcourt, M.P., one of the best administrators in the Asquith Cabinet. Thus far I have been considering what in the educational parlance of the day is called " Secondary Education," but something must be said on " Primary Education." The record of the town as regards this is one of which the town may well be proud. Beginning with the year 1814, when my grandfather, with the 192 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIV. assistance of the National Society, raised money to build the St. Mary's Schools at the Old Town, supplemented in 1851 by the Trinity Schools, practically the whole work of elementary education has been done by the Church of England, with, for a limited time, and to a limited extent, some help from the Wesleyans and Roman Catholics. As regards the Wesleyans, something- more presently. East-Bourne is one of the very few considerable towns in England which never had tc* bear the burden, or realise the mischiefs, of a School Board. Besides the St. Mary's and Trinity Parochial Schools just mentioned, 4 ladies in East-Bourne contributed materially to keep educational burdens off the ratepayers by founding and supporting what may be described as private-public Infant Schools. The first in point of time was what is known as " Lady Burlington's School," founded and erected by Blanche, Countess of Burlington in the year 1836, in Meads Road. Then in 1852 Miss L. Brodie started an Infant School in a cottage- in the Old Town, which later on was replaced by a permanent building in Church Street, erected on land given by Lord Burlington. Then Miss Julia Brodie built and endowed an Infant School at the Seaside, close to Christ Church ; and finally Miss Maria Brodie, without building or endowing, carried on at Meads for many years an Infant School at her own expense. All these efforts, with new buildings in Christ Church, and enlargements from time to time, kept the School accommodation of the town abreast of the demands up to 1872, when the Education Department summoned the Town to provide additional accommodation. At a Vestry Meeting called to consider the matter on December 16, 1872, it was resolved to avoid a School Board, and to make an effort by voluntary means. The result was that the demand of the Government was met by the provision of 656 additional places, including 232 in a Wesleyan School ; the cost incurred having been met by a general subscription of 1335, supplemented by private benefactions in several of the Ecclesiastical Districts. i CHAP. XIV.] School Deficiencies. 193 St. Saviour's parish took its share in meeting the demand for more school places. By means of a bazaar about 450 was raised. As I was not directly engaged in that I have no right to deal with it here, but one of the " side-shows " at the bazaar deserves record. There was what was called a "Museum and Fine Art Exhibition," the admission fee to which was sixpence. This display, having regard to the ecclesiastical odour about the whole concern, must be characterised as a " pious fraud." For instance an " Illustrated edition of the Spectator " turned out to be a spotted potato ; "A working model," a toy windmill pulled with a string ; "A coat of mail," a man's ordinary coat ; " An instrument of torture of the nine- teenth century," a pair of stays. " A stirring subject " was not a picture, but a spoon ; in the same way, " All alone " was a brad-awl ; " Done brown," a piece of toast ; " The light of other days," a flint and steel ; " The Lynx at rest," a pair of sleeve links ; " Portrait of a perfect beauty," a mirror, wherein the spectator beheld himself ; "View of the Black Sea," the letter C written in black ink ; " Departed spirits," an empty gin bottle ; "A home circle," a wedding ring, and so on. This special effort met the necessities of the case for several years, but in 1893 the growth of the town had brought about another great deficiency of accom- modation which required a very special effort to meet it. Determined to keep out a School Board, Churchmen put their shoulders to the wheel and raised the large sum of 11,000, and so did keep out a School Board. The spirit which actuated the Dissenters at this time is sufficiently shown by their having put great pressure on the Education Department to decree the formation of a School Board, and by their having in a very spiteful spirit brought about the closing of the Wesleyan School in order to create a new deficiency which they hoped and expected Churchmen would be unable to face, but in this our Dissenting brethren were " sold." The financial part of the movement was brought to an end by a fancy bazaar on a colossal scale held at the Devonshire Park in the month of June 1895. The 194 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIV. preparations were entrusted to a Committee of 24 ladies elected by ballot, and the stalls, 19 in number, with several " side-shows," were served by a large number of ladies living in or connected with East-Bourne. The total receipts were 1815 and the total expenditure 570 and the profits therefore were 1245, a good and satisfactory result for a town with a population which then only amounted to somewhere about 30,000. Since that time, and more especially since the passing of the " Education Act, 1902," the whole situation of elementary education has been changed, and the County Councils and Borough Councils entrusted with the work. This was one of the greatest mistakes, next after free education, ever made by a Conservative Government. They placed the control of elementary education in the hands of men, for the most part knowing nothing of the subject, and up to 1902, elected only for their supposed capacity to manage highways, sewers, and drains, and secular finance. The result in most parts of England has been to infuse into County and Borough Council Elections, political and sectarian animosities in which, owing to the apathy of Churchmen, the interests of Church of England children have fared more or less badly. Technical Education must receive a brief notice in this chapter. It is a subject which has always been a hobby of mine, and though perhaps more especially a North of England matter, yet recent experience has shown that the South of England can be advantageously moved to take it up. It first came home to ine about the year 1873, when I had in my employ as house-boy, for many months, a lad from one of the training ships on the Thames, but I forget which. He had been so well trained to use his brains and his hands, that we found him most useful about the house for purposes far removed from his normal duties of cleaning knives and boots. He was a carpenter, a locksmith, a gardener almost anything in fact, in posse. The recollection of this boy, and of course other things, led me to seek a seat on the Technical Instruction Committee of the East lac u. CHAP. XIV.] Technical Education. 195 .Sussex County Council, almost as soon as I was elected in 1889. I afterwards became, and was for 5 years (1898-1903) Chairman of that Committee imtil it was disestablished by the " Education Act, 1902." In applying the " Technical Instruction Act, 1889," to the circumstances of Sussex, we had to consider many subjects beyond what, say, a Lancashire Committee would have been called upon to handle. Our curriculum therefore embraced such very diverse subjects (some for male and some for female students), as brass-work, wood-carving, horse-shoeing, bee-keeping, fruit-growing, butter-making, cooking, house-cleaning, dress-cutting and so on, to say nothing of nursing and ambulance work. We established at Lewes a training school for girls, .and both there and at various centres in the County, we gave instruction by qualified travelling teachers in the above and other subjects. In the case of the Boroughs, including of course East-Bourne, we did not give the instruction by our own staff sent out from Lewes our head-quarters, but made grants of money to the Boroughs who appointed their own local Technical Instruction Committees which made their own arrangements for teachers and teaching. I was also Chairman of the Technical Instruction Committee of the East-Bourne Town Council during the last year or two before I relinquished my seat on the Council in 1893. In my capacity of Chairman of the two bodies in turn, it fell to my lot to visit different centres in the County, give away prizes, and, of course, make speeches in so doing. These speeches not unfrequently involved me in correspondence, of which the following is a sample, not textual, but in effect : " DEAR SIR, I was very much interested in reading in our local paper your speech on the successful working of the Lewes Training School for young servants. Will you kindly procure for me the name and address of one of the young cooks you have trained there, as I should like to engage a servant from your school. With manv apologies, Yours truly, Mary Blank." This was an addition to my duties of Chairman for 196 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIV. which I did not bargain. In reality the girls who came out of the Lewes School were so promptly snapped up that even I, as Chairman, was only once able to secure one of them for my own household, and a capital servant she proved to be. There can be no doubt whatever that the work done at Lewes, and indeed elsewhere in the County, was of the highest practical value, but it was not easy to bring this fact home to the parents of the young people whom we were desirous of assisting. I hope, however, that the indifference as to this on the part of parents will gradually disappear. The management of the Lewes house was vested in a joint Committee of a small number of gentlemen members of the County Council, and a larger number of co-opted ladies. To preside over these latter, and to keep them in debate to the point directly before us was one of the most difficult matters in all my experience of public meetings. As regards the general work of the Committee in the County at large, I cannot but single out three ladies in particular to whom the County owed in my time a great debt of gratitude for their painstaking labours, namely : the Hon. Mrs. Thomas, the Hon. Mrs. Egerton, and Mrs. Locker-Lampson. " $ am thankful for it." (Love's Labour Lost.) " Swcr bushwss ifyat tot Icfrc foe risr bttirac, au& flu to foitft tuelir^t " (ANTONT AND CLKOPATEA.) [197] CHAPTER XV. ELECTIONS, PAROCHIAL AND MUNICIPAL. Sketch of the Local Government arrangements up till 1859. The first Local Board. The great Epidemic of 1863. First system of main drainage. Incorporation of the town in 1883. Wanted a Town Hall. Bickerings over a site. Author a member of the Local Board. Steps taken to bring about Incorporation. Proposed inclusion of Willingdon. Guardians of the Poor. Lad y Guardians. County Council Elections. The danger of splitting votes. Political Dissenters. End of the Author's Career. 4t ttoare of Couunls ia^tn too full : number makes long irisgutes." (SiR J. DENHAM, 1615-1668.) " Councils fca not lessen drils, but rather iumase tfrrm." (Quoted by LORD BACON.) " W&t |jabt bmt fricnbs ia%ti\ti ; $n sunshine anir ht s^aire," (HoN. MRS. NORTON.) IN my early days, neither Sussex generally nor East-Bourne in particular were very advanced in what we now understand as Municipal Local Government. Rye, Hastings and Chichester had Mayors -and Corporations, but even Brighton had nothing better than a Board of Improvement Commissioners, whilst East-Bourne had practically no local government at all. There was a Board of Guardians to deal with the Poor Law matters only, whilst the municipal side of civil .government rose no higher than the 5 Lighting Inspectors appointed in 1852, under the " Lighting and Watching Act, 1833," plus the Common Law Parish Vestry which had not yet been clothed with any sanitary powers. The " Watching " section of the Act just named had been adopted as far back as December 4, 1837, but the vote was rescinded a fortnight later ! There were also of -course " Surveyors of Highways " who looked after the highways in a certain fashion, with powers derived from the " Highway Act, 1835." 198 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XV. It was not until 1859 that there was set up in East-Bourne any representative Municipal Authority at all comparable with the Local Authorities with which we are now familiar. This was the outcome of the passing of the " Local Government Act, 1858," one of the many beneficent social reforms carried out by the Conservative Party in the person, in that particular case, of Mr. C. B. Adderley, afterwards Lord Norton. The Aiithorities set up under that Act were called Local Boards, and the first East-Bourne Local Board was elected on January 14, 1859. There were 51 candidates for 24 seats, and the first Board was very fairly representative of all classes. The members included the Vicar, 2 Magistrates,, 1 Barrister, 3 Doctors, 1 Builder, 1 Butcher, 1 Watch- maker, 1 Upholsterer, 3 Brewers, 1 Innkeeper, 1 Miller, 6 Farmers and 2 private residents, one of whom was a gentleman and the other who was not. The first Chairman was Mr. R. J. Graham, J.P., who was re-elected Chainnan most years up till 1877 inclusive, sharing the honour for brief intervals with Mr. J. Dexter (a Chemist), Dr. D. J. Hall and the Vicar, the Rev. T. Pitman. Mr, Graham was succeeded by Dr. G. A. Jeffery, who was re-elected annually almost until the Local Board was superseded by the Corporation in 1883 with its Mayor,. Aldermen, and Town Councillors. Considering the general lack of enterprise as to- Local Government matters which prevailed in the South of England, as distinguished from the North, it may fairly be said that the East-Bourne Local Board did a good deal of useful public work, but this fact was in no small degree due to the impulse in favour of good local management given to the Town by the 7th Duke of Devonshire and his professional advisers, Mr. Henry Currey, the Architect, and Mr. F. C. Stileman, the Civil Engineer. The town was visited in 1863 by a severe outbreak of scarlet fever, resulting in many deaths amongst all classes of the inhabitants. The cause was obvious, without much research a water supply defective in quantity, and of very doubtful quality, coupled with an entire absence of arterial drainage. Plate XL. To face p. Fig. 74 THE LAST EAST-BOURNE LOCAL BOARD. 1883 CHAP. XV.] Early Main Drainage. 199 This outbreak led to a panic amongst the visitors ; so much so that in their hurry to get away many consented to travel in railway trucks, railway carriage accommodation having failed. The special pressure was on the Monday after a sermon at Trinity Church on the Sunday, in which the preacher dwelt on the magnitude of the epidemic, and on the lessons to be drawn from it. A local doctor, by way of mending matters, wrote to the Times to say that residents were not suffering much only visitors (!). Mr. R. Hanbury, M.P. for Middlesex, then occupying Frohsdorf House, lost several children. Naturally, few people cared to come near the place in 1864. Rents of furnished lodgings fell enormously, and a new and much lower stratum of society came into the place, and was never shaken off. As regards the drainage, this matter was taken in hand by the Local Board in 1864, who decided in the first instance to spend 6000 in a Main Drain to carry the sewage of the town out to sea in the direction of Langney Point. The Duke of Devonshire offered in the first instance a contribution of 1000, to which the Gilbert Trustees added 500, but it was soon found that the sum proposed to be spent was wholly insufficient for the purpose, owing to the expensive and troublesome work of carrying the Main Sewer across the Crumbles. When it became evident that the burden of the cost would be far beyond what the town with its then population and rateable value could bear, the Duke of Devonshire very handsomely came forward and undertook to complete the scheme whatever it might cost beyond the 10,000 set apart for sewerage purposes by the Local Board, but the Gilbert Trustees did not join in this supplementary gift. The Duke's offer proved a tremendous burden to him, and I believe that the cost of the first Main Sewer, which was inaugurated in 1866, did not fall far short of 60,000. Its completion gave scope for great demonstrations of joy on the part of the inhabitants, but I was unfortunately unable to be present, being detained in London. In the Plate recording the opening ceremony the shape of the high hats in fashion then should be noted. (Plate XXXIX.) 200 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XV. The Local Board lasted until November 1883, when it was superseded by a Mayor and Corporation, in other words, by a Town Council under the " Municipal Corporations Act, 1882." There were only two other matters besides the Drainage Question which excited any great amount of local feeling during the whole of the 22 years that the Local Board lasted, and they were the questions of a Town Hall and Public Offices, and a Sea Wall ; but these must be the subject of a chapter" to themselves. Let me add that I was elected a Member of the Local Board in 1874, re-elected in 1877, turned out in 1880, re-elected in 1882 ; the ups and downs, or rather, the ' down ' in the case being due to the active support which I had rendered to the " Go-ahead " party. I now come to deal with the Incorporation of the town in 1883. This was really the outcome of the steady growth of a public opinion that the town ought to go ahead, and that a new Governing Body of go-ahead men was needed. The " Do-nothings " viewed the scheme of a Charter with great disfavour, but they were powerless to stem the flowing tide. Accordingly, a Petition was presented to the Queen in Council, asking for the grant of a Royal Charter for Incorporation. The usual practice was followed, and before the Charter was granted a local Inquiry was held before a Commissioner appointed by the Privy Council, who in this case was Mr. R. C. Bunbury, a barrister. I acted as Counsel for the Petitioners, and framed the application, which was in the ordinary form, and had only one special feature, namely : that it included the Parish of Willingdon in the proposed Borough of East-Bourne. This suggestion of mine was accepted by the East-Bourne Promoters without any sort of demur. The inspiring motive was that looking forwards a few years, and taking note of the evident certainty, even in 1883, that East-Bourne would become a greajt place, and that Willingdon would become a residential suburb of East-Bourne, both as regards a villa population and a working-class population, it was undesirable to have a large number of houses built just over the East- Bourne border, free of the Sanitary control of an Urban Authority acting on modern Urban lines. Plate XLI. To follow p. 200. Fig. 75. THE FIRST MEMBERS OF THE EAST-BOURNE CORPORATION. 1883. CHAP. XV.] Incorporation. 201 The proposal met with a certain amount of opposition from Willingdon ratepayers, but not of a very pronounced kind except in the case of a farmer, Mr. John Filder, whose range of vision on all public questions was very limited. The question finally turned on the attitude of the 1st Viscount Hampden, better known as Sir Henry Brand, the ex-Speaker of the House of Commons. Lord Hampden, I think was personally in favour of the inclusion of Willingdon, and on the grounds that it would undoubtedly raise in the long run, the value of the Katton property, but he seems to have felt that as his grandson, the present Lord Willingdon (who was the largest owner of property in Willingdon), was a minor, the question should be left open until such times as his grandson was of age, and in a position to take a line for himself. The Parish of Willingdon was there- fore struck out of the Draft Charter, notwithstanding that East-Bourne offered to submit to a differential rating for a certain number of years so as to ease the pressure on the Willingdon rates. The Charter met with no further opposition and came into operation in due course, and the first Council was elected on November 1, 1883, and the first meeting was held in the following week on the statutory day the 9th. The first Mayor was Mr. G. A. Wallis, who had previously been the last Chairman of the defunct Local Board. I was elected a member of the Council for St. Mary's Ward and sat for 5 years when I was turned out as the result of a conspiracy engineered by Alderman W. E. Morrison. No provision having been made by law to authorise the purchase of a chain for the Mayor, or for a mace, the Duke of Devonshire kindly presented the Corporation with a chain, and Mr. C. D. Gilbert a mace. The ceremonial presentation was made on April 21, 1884. The first provisional Burgess Roll exhibited the following numbers : East Ward 980 Central Ward 1133 St. Mary's Ward 590 WestWard 196 2899 202 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XV. The present total number of Burgesses is 7569. The growth of the wards cannot be separately exhibited because a redistribution has taken place since 1883. This is a long digression, and I must get back to the proper subject of this chapter, which is Elections. In 1882 I was elected a Guardian, and by the time I had got quite settled into my work a new Election came round. In those days the Elections were annual, and everybody went out of office every year. The idea of having ladies as Guardians was just beginning to come to the front, and as I heartily approved of the idea, I consented to nominate a lady for one of the 6 vacant seats. The result, good for the town, was disastrous for me ; she was elected and I was turned out, being first on the list of unsuccessful candidates. The success of the idea of lady Guardians was soon recognised, and the desire being expressed that there should be 2 such Guardians, I gladly consented to nominate in the following year (1884) a second in the person of Miss Elisabeth Vulliamy, I also being again a candidate. Again were the results disastrous to myself ; she was elected, and in the scramble for seats I again found myself amongst the unsuccessful candidates. My adhesion to the principle of Lady Guardians to share with men the management of pauper women and children is therefore disinterested and has never faltered, and they are now numbered by hundreds all over England. The " Local Government Act, 1894 " altered entirely the then existing arrangements at East-Bourne for the Election of Guardians, making them elective not for the whole parish en bloc, but by wards, the wards being so arranged that every Guardian sits for 3 years ; and though there is an Election every year the Elections take place in different wards, each year turn and turn about. County Council Elections must receive a brief notice. Having acted as an Assistant Boundary Commissioner for England and Wales in 1887 and part of 1888, in assisting to provide the Government with in- formation on which to frame the Bill for the Constitution of the County Councils, I naturally was inspired with CHAP. XV.] Election Incidents. 203' the desire to become a member of the Council of my own County and stood in November 1888 for St. Mary's Ward, East-Bourne, being the ward of my place of residence. Though I had pitted against me a strong candidate, Alderman G. Boulton, on the strength of my canvass I may confidently say that I should have beaten him. But a curious complication upset all the arrangements and calculations. It was found at a late stage, that provision had not been made of separate voting-lists for the St. Mary's and West Wards, and the Local Government Board decided that for the first elections the 2 Wards should be treated as one, and this fusion of the Wards carried with it a fusion of the voting-lists and of the candidates. This brought into the field against me a strong and ambitious Meads candidate, Alderman W. E. Morrison, who coalesced with Alderman Boulton and therefore I had to fight 2 strong candidates single-handed. Against such a combination, my success was evidently imperilled as the poll in the result showed : Morrison . . . . . . . . 593 Boulton 516 Chambers .. .. .. ..471 Majority Morrison over Chambers 112 Boulton over Chambers 45 Now notice the following analysis of persons voting,, 945 in all : For Chambers 471 Against . . . . . . . . . . 474 Majority against Chambers . . 3 These figures show the advantage under ordinary circumstances of candidates of a party being as numerous as there are seats to be filled, even supposing that the other candidates of either party are not such strong candidates as the principal candidate of the party. This axiom applies to Parliamentary, and indeed, to all elections of whatever sort. I acted upon it at a by- election a few weeks later to fill the two vacancies caused by Boulton and Morrison, who were Aldermen of the 204 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XV. Town Council being also made Aldermen of the County Council. I stood again at the urgent solicitation of my supporters, but only on the condition that a second candidate was forthcoming. As it happened, a very suitable one was at hand in the person of the late Mr. G. H. Lawrence, a member of the distinguished Indian family of that name ; and the figures at the poll showed the wisdom of my electioneering tactics. I won the seat for myself, and carried in my friend though only by a majority of 3. That majority of three had an interesting history. I was driving up to the poll, not many minutes before it closed, and overtook 3 lady voters, sisters. One of them shouted out, " we are all three going to plump for you," I replied " Please do not plump : split your votes between me and Mr. Lawrence." They acted on iny suggestion and so we carried the second seat. The declaration of the poll showed : Chambers, G. F 441 Lawrence, G. H 361 Young, T. 358 Skinner, J. A 337 I retained my seat on the County Council unchallenged for 15 years, during which time I went through four triennial Elections. My first two contested Elections cost me altogether 30, because I went in heavily for printing and meetings, but at the subsequent uncoiitested Elections my expenses on one occasion amounted to no more than 4d., and the next time only to 2d., being the cost of certain unavoidable postage stamps. I lost my seat in 1904 in consequence of a furious opposition engineered by political Dissenters, who made great and successful efforts all over Sussex, indeed all over England, to obtain a dominant position to control the Education policy of the Councils in the interests of Dissent, and to the detriment of the Church. They put up against me a political Dissenter, lately come to reside in the town, knowing nothing of its wants and caring nothing for its interests, except as viewed through sectarian spectacles. He was, however, a strong Candidate from the standpoint of blankets, etc., etc. Plate XLIV. To face p. 204. Fig. 78. NOMINATION PAPER. Bopougl? of Eastbourne. ELECTION OF > COUNCILLORS for No. 3 or West \Vanl in the said Horough, to be held on tin- Second ,i:iy of November 1903 . JSIf, the undersigned, liviiig res|>cctively JUir^essos, hereby nominate the following Person as a Candidate ut the slid Klection. ROWE THOMAS 7i-. Terminus BRADRIDCE Koad PHOTOGRAPHER . Eastbourne . A ililr, tin 1 undersigned, bein^ mpcctively Jlurgcsses, hereby assent to I In iioiiiiiiation of llit! above-mimed I'erson us a Candidate at tlie said Election. Dated this Sixteenth day of October i oos. ^ ...0 ./& .JC-^I # I Y 2 2 Z NOMINATION PAPER OF T. B ROWE AS TOWN COUNCILLOR. CHAP. XV.] The Authors Career ended. 205 Though defeated, I was offered by my late colleagues on the County Council a seat on the Education Committee as a co-opted Member under the " Education Act, 1902," but I declined the honour, feeling that as my late constituents had withdrawn their confidence, or to speak more truly, had withdrawn their votes, after my 30 years' services to the town, I did not care to accept a compliment, even though it came from the County of Sussex at large. And this Election ended my public career in East-Bourne. I found, however, a solatium in the course of a very few weeks by being elected a Member of the Council of the Metropolitan Borough of Lewisham after a smart contest, although almost a stranger to my new constituency ; but I understood they took me on the strength of my many years' public experience in Sussex. &II's todl Ifcst *nbs MI." (ALL'S WELL.) [206] CHAPTER XVI. EAST-BOURNE BILLS IN PARLIAMENT. The Caldecott Museum causes a Bill to be passed. Encroachments of the Sea causes a Bill to be passed Air. G. A. Wallis as Mayor. His desire for more powers causes a Bill to be brought in and passed. The ups and downs of the said Bill. The Salvation Army very unpopular. Parliamentary controversy respecting its misconduct Proposed purchase of Water Works. Municipal Trading. To what extent desirable. " |]fot|rmg txttmntt : war $tt irofo aurj|ri m malia." ( Othello.} LAW is often supposed to be a dry subject, but it is not so in reality, as witness how the reports in the daily papers, especially those of a particular Court are devoured by lay readers. The present chapter will deal, in a very condensed form, with some of the applications made to Parliament for special purposes, concluding with a bare list of the special Acts of Parliament in force in the town down to 1901. For this list I claim what is called " copyright " because it has never been published by anybody else. Literary sharks, which abound everywhere, may however copy it as they like. Passing over for the moment the special legislation required as time went on for Gas and Water purposes, the first time that the public needs of East-Bourne were brought under the notice of Parliament was in 1871, and it came about in a curious way. After the death of Mr. Caldecott, at Meads, and the transfer of his geological museum to trustees on behalf of the Town, it became a question how and where they should house it and obtain funds for its maintenance. The suggestion was an obvious one. Let the Town put in force the existing Statute Law under which certain Urban Local Authorities could institute and carry on Public Libraries and Plate XLV. face p. 206. Figs. 79-80. L.wis, Kast-RourM. Copyright. LANGNEY FORT, WRECKED BY THE SEA. Cofyrghi OAK COTTAGE, TERMINUS ROAD. Suggested site for the Town Hall. CHAP. XVI.] Public libraries. 207 Museums. On the matter being looked into however, it was found that a Local Board under the " Local Govern- ment Act, 1858," was not an Urban Authority entitled to work the " Public Libraries Acts." This was a casus omissus, which I was asked by the Caldecott Trustees to take steps to get rectified. I accordingly drafted a short Bill for the purpose which was introduced into the House of Commons by my friend Mr. J. G. Talbot, M.P., and rapidly passed through all its stages and became law, under the " short " title of " The Public Libraries Act, 1855, Amendment Act, 1871." (34 and 35 Viet. c. 71.) On November 24, 1871, a meeting was called to adopt the Act, but a motion to that effect was rejected chiefly owing to the senseless opposition of certain booksellers who thought it would check the sale of books, whereas it is notorious that Public Libraries stimulate the demand for books. The Caldecott Trustees therefore had to take other steps. What they were is a matter that does not belong to this chapter. I may however here add that at a much later date and with the inhabitants in a more enlightened frame of mind, the "Public Libraries Acts " were adopted, and the old Vestry Room fitted up as a temporary library. It was opened as such on July 7, 1896. The formal ceremonial took place at the Town Hall, and Mr. Hall Caine was the officiating minister. It fell to myself to make a speech, and I never did so in East-Bourne with greater pleasure. In consequence of the ravages of the sea, the Local Board sought Parliamentary powers in 1879 to deal with that and other matters, and the Act (42 & 43 Viet., c. xcvii.) gave them the powers required, but the 'Circumstances which led to the passing of that are discussed at length in the Chapter on Sea Walls. (Chapter XVHL, post.) In connection with the Incorporation of the town, the first Mayor, Mr. G. A. Wallis, formed the opinion that the Local Government powers conferred by the general law did not afford sufficient scope for the management of town affairs on the newest modern lines, 208 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVL and that it would be well that East-Bourne should do what nearly all other towns had done, go to Parliament, and ask for extensive additional powers. Mr. Wallis invoked my co-operation which I gladly gave, because I was at one with him both as regards the principle that more powers were required by us, and also as to the general details of those powers as suggested by Mr. Wallis. Everything went smoothly at first in the Committee work connected with the preparation of the Bill, and generally, but when the details became known to the public, some of them met with strong opposition. Mr. Wallis was between 2 fires. He wanted the Bill, and he wanted to get into Parliament, and he found that his continued support of the main features of the Bill would lessen the chances of his winning the parlia- mentary seat. So in a very shabby and unhandsome manner he made a scapegoat of me, got the matter taken out of my hands, and the draft Bill transferred to a new Committee presided over by Alderman Boulton who pulled it considerably to pieces, but eventually secured for it the sanction of Parliament in a very mutilated and disjointed form. It now stands on the Statute Book as the 48 & 49 Viet., c. clxv. Personally, I did not regret for some reasons Mr. Wallis's change of front, for it took a great burden off my shoulders, because I was acting at the same time as Counsel for the Corporation of Hastings, who had gone to Parliament for an Improvement Bill which they employed me to draft. I followed the lines of my original draft for the East-Bourne Bill, and gave effect to my own ideas as to the most convenient and orderly sequence of the subjects. The Hastings people gave me their entire confidence. The Bill was approved with practical unanimity both by the Hastings Town Council and afterwards by the townspeople in public meeting assembled, under the " Borough Funds Act, 1872.'* The Bill passed through all its stages in the Commons and in the Lords, satisfying the well-known critical eye of Lord Redesdale, then nearly at the end of his important public career. CHAP. XVI.] Tlie Salvation Army. 209 A long time elapsed before the Corporation of East-Bourne was again seen at Westminster, and the circumstances were in the highest degree discreditable to those who dragged the Corporation there. One of the provisions of the " East-Bourne Improvement Act, 1885," dealt with a great and serious local annoyance. For some years previously to 1885 various towns in England, including amongst others Brighton, Worthing, East-Bourne, and Hastings, had been very much disturbed by the " Salvation Army," by Sunday Processions through the streets, preceded by noisy brass bands. At a Conference representing the Local Authorities of several South Coast watering-places, held at Brighton on November 17, 1884, it was agreed unanimously that these Salvation Army bands in the streets, both on account of their noise and of the crowds which they engendered, were a nuisance to the inhabitants, as well as a fertile cause of Sunday desecration, and ought to be prohibited by Act of Parliament. Accordingly, as the Corporations of Hastings and East-Bourne were applying to Parliament for additional powers, they were urged to deal with this matter in their Bills then in course of preparation. And they did so, by borrowing first of all from a London Act a clause as to the playing music in the streets, supplemented by a clause taken from a New York State Enactment, controlling the playing of music in the streets on Sundays. The clauses were not opposed in either House, and Parliament sanctioned them in both Bills in nearly identical terms. Subsequently when the East-Bourne Corporation proceeded to put the enactment in force, there were riotous scenes in the streets, brought about by the wicked misconduct of the Booth faction in defiance of the law and of the wishes of the inhabitants at large. A climax was reached in the Session of 1892, when Sir H. H. Fowler, M.P., a Dissenter, now Viscount Wolverhampton, brought in a Public Bill specially to repeal the East-Bourne clause. The Bill was carried on a division in the House of Commons by 269 votes to 122 p 210 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVI. votes, notwithstanding a most striking speech, against it by Admiral Field, M.P. for the East-Bourne Division. It was well understood at the time that the votes of the M.P.'s concerned would have been different, perhaps widely different, if a General Election had not been coining off in a few weeks, and many members were frightened by the threats of the Salvationists. The feelings of the inhabitants of East-Bourne were manifested in a remarkable manner by the votes on the question whether Sir Henry Fowler's Bill should be opposed by the Corporation at the expense of the Ratepayers. The votes were as follows : Persons Votes. Voting. For opposing the Bill 5331 .. 3257 Against .. ..738 .. 470 Majority for . . 4593 . . 2787 The vote was taken by Plural Voting under the " Borough Funds Acts, 1872." These figures show the majority to have been as follows : of persons voting 6*9 to 1 : in actual votes 7*2 to 1. Lest it should be said that these votes came from the big people, and that the democracy supported the Salvation Army, I will add that the democracy voted 2371 for opposition and 347 against, showing a prepon- derance of 6 '8 to 1, practically the same as the ratio arrived at on two other different bases of calculation. This vote was a great consolation to me who with Alderman Morrison had borne the brunt of the burden of supporting the clause/ /' I will not pass away from this subject without stating my deliberate conviction that the desecration of Sunday which has now (1910) reached such alarming proportions in the shape of Sunday concerts, Sunday travelling, Sunday trading, Sunday newspapers, &c., lies in no insignificant degree at the door of " General " Booth with his Sunday bands, Sunday journeyings and Sunday hawking of newspapers. The next time the Corporation of East-Bourne went to Parliament, was in the Session of 1897, when they (a) 1 had even to submit to the assaults of Miss Eva Booth's tongue delivered in my own house. CHAP. XVI.] Municipal Trading. 211 promoted a Bill for the purchase of the East-Bourne Waterworks. I had no share in the preparation of the Bill, but I had made 2 or 3 speeches in public in favour of the purchase. On the general question of what in more recent times has come to be termed " Municipal Trading," my opinions have never changed. I am against all trading by Local Authorities in competition with the ordinary shop-keeper, with 4 exceptions, namely : gas, water, electricity, and tramways, but ordinary shop-keepers do not sell these things, and therefore I am not running counter to my own principles. The reason why I name these 4 matters as exceptions to a general rule is simply this : to carry on the supply of gas, water, and electricity, and to work a tramway means constant interference with the roads, and therefore to obviate the inconvenience and risks of divided responsibility, I think that these 4 undertakings should be controlled by the Public Body which controls the roads and foot-paths. I wish it were possible, but of course it is not, to bring the telephone and telegraph services under the same control, for the same reason. Ht g0u lifa, m tijt tmfy." (Henry IV., pt. 1.) [212] CHAPTER XVII. SEA WALLS : TOWN HALLS : PUBLIC PARKS. Encroachments of the Sea on the Sussex Coast. The Sea-front before any wall was built. The western extension of the wall. Mr. James Berry. Mr. M. Vidler.High Tides in 1875 and 1877. The Improvement Bill of 1879. Opposition thereto by the "Do-nothing" Party. Roads sometimes flooded. History of the Town Hall. Difficulties in finding a Site. The various Sites discussed. Stocks' Bank finally selected. Continued opposition on the part of the " Do-nothings." Plans selected and rejected. The controversy as to these Plans. Open Spaces. The controversey as to the South Fields. Negotiations with Mr. Gilbert. Liberal offer on behalf of the Duke of Devonshire. Strong public opinion in favour of a Park in the Town. Final settlement of negotiations prolonged through many years. Hampden Park, good in itself, but far away. Hospitals. " jrermcns in slants, anir puoir in jt&jcr^t^ing." (-4s you like it.} THE history of these things in East-Bourne is a very tangled and controversial one. I begin with the Sea Walls. The fact that at different parts of the Sussex coast, in or near East-Bourne, the sea has been changing the coast line, either by accretion or denudation (I think these are the correct geological terms, but I am no geologist), is notorious, and is sufficiently shown by the simple facts that Pevensey Castle, once washed by the sea, is now a mile from the sea, whilst at East-Bourne houses which used to exist near the seashore have been washed away altogether. The erection of sea defences of some sort has therefore at various times been found indispensable. The oldest of these were groynes rows of big timber stakes driven into the foreshore more or less at right angles to the general line of the coast, and braced together either by planks or faggots. The construction of groynes appears to have begun some time in the early part of the 19th Century. My earliest CHAP. XVII.] Sea Walls. 213 recollection of the Marine Parade goes back to the time when nothing but groynes were there by way of defences, and boats were drawn up almost or quite on to the actual roadway in front of the houses numbered from 1 to 24 ; just as to a much later period they could be drawn up, if necessary, actually to touch the old houses behind the Royal Parade, I do not distinctly remember the actual construction of the Marine Parade wall, but I think it must have been about 1847 or 1848, that is to say, I remember the time when there was no wall there, and afterwards the time when there was a wall. I think that the wall in front of what is now the old part of the Grand Parade was constructed about 1849 or 1850, but perhaps it was a little later. The designs for these walls were in both cases provided by a Mr. James Berry, who was something between an engineer and an architect and an ordinary land surveyor. The Marine Parade wall was a wall properly so-called, almost upright, but it was an idea of Berry's, that a wall of blocks of stone in stages, each course set back behind the previous course, would present to the impact of rough seas a more certain protection to land behind the wall than would a perpen- dicular wall. This theoretical idea would seem to be supported by facts. However, further Westwards of No. 23 Grand Parade, when the wall and promenade were extended, the face of the wall was made almost perpendicular, I suppose because the sea never approached very near the wall. The question of groynes versus walls gave rise to much controversy. Major Vidler (he was not a "Major" that was his Christian name), who was the Surveyor in charge of the Pevensey Levels, removed the planking from the groynes and the effect was what he wished it to be to strip the sea front of East-Bourne of as much beach as possible in order to heap up as much as possible in the direction of Langney Point, for the protection of the vast expanse of marsh land running back from there in the direction of Polegate and Pevensey. It was this action of Vidler's which inspired the erection of the sea wall as a substitute for the groynes tampered with by him. 214 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVII. The matter went to sleep for some years, but it woke up again very much in 1875. On November 14 in that year, a considerable length of railway at Bulverhythe, between Bexhill and Hastings, was completely washed CHAP. XVIL] High Tides. 215 away during a storm and high tide, and all traffic suspended for many hours. Seaford too suffered severely, but that storm did not affect East-Bourne to the same serious extent as some other storms which I can remember. Previously to the passing of the Act of 1879 (presently to be mentioned), every expected unusual high tide was a source of great anxiety to the occupiers of houses facing the sea front or lying behind in Seaside from the Anchor Eastwards. They often had to board up the lower portions of their front doors and " pug " the boards with clay to keep out the water. These defensive efforts frequently failed and the water getting in converted the ground floor or basement rooms into swimming baths. When the water once got over the Marine Parade on to the roadway, it iised to rush down the incline by Gowland's Library and so on, in extreme cases, flood the roadway as far East as Leaf Hall and beyond. I have seen the whole of the road between the corner at the back of the Albion and the Hall, a foot deep for the whole width of the road. Such was the case during the high tide and storm of March 12, 1876. The most destructive storm on record was that of January 1, 1877, which washed away part of the Pier, flooded many houses at the Seaside, and caused a great devastation of property. The extent of the mischief was so great, that at length it became realised by nearly (but not quite) everybody that the sea wall then carried to a point only so far E. as just beyond the Anchor Hotel, ought to be extended further Eastwards, at least to the Redoubt. Such a proposal, involving as it necessarily did, great interference with property and a very large outlay, could only be carried out by an Act of Parliament. The Local Board after full deliberation, decided to apply for one, which was the signal for all the Do-nothings and Obstructives to marshal their forces to hinder the necessary Public Improvements, which included besides the sea wall, the widening of South Street and taking over the powers of the Commissioners of the Pevensey Levels. Mrs. Partington came very much to the fore, 216 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVII. but with only partial success. The Bill was in Committee in the House of Commons for 4 days, March 25-28, and in the Lords for 2 days, June 17-18, and soon became law. The wall was built and some important additional powers were obtained. The key-stone was laid on January 4, 1884, after many difficulties owing to a part of the finished work being washed away in the autumn of 1881, and to the failure of the Contractor, and the intervention of a law-suit. The erection of the wall was followed by a law-suit between Mr. Gilbert and the Local Board in the summer of 1880, as to the compensation to be paid for the land of the former taken by the Board. The matter was settled by arbitration, Mr. Glutton being the Arbitrator. A very interesting and exhaustive paper on the changes in the coast line at East-Bourne, and to the E. and W. of the town, was read before the Natural History Society on February 19, 1875, by the late Rev. H. E. Maddock and was printed in the Society's Annual Volume of Proceedings. The controversy before the Bill of 1879 became law, turned upon the respective merits of Avail v. groynes. One set of thinkers, who wished to do things on the cheap, went in for more groynes, whilst another section advocated a sea wall as more certain, more permanent, and more artistic, albeit more expensive. There can now be no doubt that the wall was the proper remedy for the disease which had to be faced, a few groynes being useful perhaps as a supplementary defence. I may here insert the date of December 5, 189G, as that on which the Brighton Chain Pier was washed away. Beyond the words " a raging gale," I have no note of anything serious having happened at East-Bourne, but that is not surprising, for Beachy Head and the Downs protect East-Bourne in a marked degree from gales from the W. and S.W. The Town Hall has a history which, if it were worth while to tell it in full, would result in a singular narrative of controversy and mishaps ; bickerings and recriminations ; nearly all centred around an obstinate CHAP. XVII.] Public Offices. 217 refusal on the part of a few men of influence to realise that East-Bourne in the " Seventies " was a growing place which could not afford to stand still. During the first few years of its existence, the Local Board office work was carried on at the private office of the Board's Clerk, Mr. J. H. C. Coles, in Seaside Road, a house on the site of the present Town Hall being occupied by the Town Surveyor, and the meetings of the Board being held in the Old Vestry Room, of which mention has already been made. The growth of the town after 1870, rendered this diversity of centres for public business exceedingly inconvenient, to say nothing of the fact that the actual accommodation provided at the 3 places rapidly became totally insufficient. An agitation was set on foot in 1874 for the provision of something in the nature of a Town Hall and Public Offices under the same roof. Respecting this matter a furious controversy took place, which eventually ended in 2 parties springing up in the town which can best be described as the " Do-nothings " and the " Go-aheads." The question of site was long and anxiously debated. When the " Do-nothings " found that they were bound to be defeated sooner or later on the main question, they set themselves the task of opposing each suggested site as it was put forward. The sites which were specially in competition first of all were in Sussex Gardens, in South Street, and in that part of Grove Road known as the Stocks Bank/ a J whereon the present Town Hall was eventually built. The site which I favoured was the South Street one (now occupied by Elliott's Stores), on the ground that it was an open position, central for all purposes, with a public road on 3 sides, and peculiarly suitable for a public building which, with St. Saviour's Church close by, and a large open space all round obtainable (for the houses in College and Spencer Roads were not then built), would have enabled the town to possess a handsome public building worthy of the town's future. However, it was not so to be. The sum of (a) The name is suggestive, but the Parish Stocks once erected there had disappeared before my time. "Pillory Place," in the Old Town, may also perhaps indicate history 218 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XV1L 3250 was asked for the site, and the Local Board thought they could not afford such a sum, though they afterwards paid 3000 for the site which was taken. The Sussex Gardens site, off the Terminus Road, was finally fixed upon at first, and respecting that site the first great battle of the contending parties was fought. The casus belli was an application by the Local Board to borrow 12,000 for the purchase of the site and for the proposed buildings thereon. The leader of the " Do-nothing " party was then, as ever since, the Champion Obstructive, Mr. Reuben Climpson, who was well backed up by some of the Magistrates, of whom better things might have been expected. In the end (1878) the proposal failed, because the Local Government Board Inspector pointed out that a Provisional Order for the purchase of the site compulsorily could not be got through during the current Session, and he advised the Local Board to take advantage of the delay to look about for another site. For the moment the ' ' Do-nothing party triumphed, and saved the town 12,000, and the adoption of a very central, though perhaps not good site. To cut a long story short, the saving of 12,000 cost the town 40,000 in the present Town Hall on a site better on the whole than the site rejected, but those who complained of the ultimate cost had no right to do so. As an instance of injudicious local finance, engineered by cheese-paring leaders, the incident finds many counter- parts in various places in England. The foregoing is but a skeleton outline of what happened and a few more details may well be given. At the Lady-Day Vestry on March 25, 1874, a scheme for enlarging the Vestry Hall by erecting a retiring room on land adjoining was negatived, and an amendment carried that the time had arrived when the town required more public office accommodation, and that steps should be taken for the erection of a sufficient Town Hall and Public Offices under one roof. In consequence of this vote of the Vestry, I brought forward at the Local Board 011 April C, 1874, the following resolution : " That a Committee of 9 members CHAP. XVII.] Proposed Town Hall. 219> be appointed to enquire into the question of finding a suitable site for a Town Hall and Public Offices : and to report to the Board (1) the cost of obtaining the same ; (2) the amount of accommodation which it is desirable should be provided ; and (3) what financial obligations it is fitting that the Board be prepared to undertake in connection with the matter." The Chairman, Mr. R. J. Graham, made a mild protest that " he was not strongly convinced of the absolute necessity of such a building, except so far as public office accommodation went. He certainly did not hold the views that it was the province of the parish to build a place for concerts and balls. ' r On this Mr. Insoll very properly remarked : " That is not Mr. Chambers's proposal." At the end of the debate, the resolution was carried unanimously, the Chairman comforting himself by saying " The resolution does not pledge the Board to anything." Of course, I scouted Mr. J. Sheridans's suggestion that I should withdraw the motion. In due course the Committee met and I had the- honour of being appointed its Chairman, and remained such till October 1879, when I resigned for private reasons. The Committee presented their Report on June 1, 1874, and after discussing various alternative sites, recommended the purchase for 3250 of Nos. 1 and 2 South Street as a site ; and asked for authority to advertise for plans and offer a premium of 150 for the best design. When the Report was discussed, there was a long discussion ending in an amendment being carried, moved by a jelly-fish member that the Report be withdrawn which the Eastbourne Chronicle report said was agreed to with '' laughter" !! From the next paragraph, it will be seen that our subsequent proceedings, though earnest so far as the Committee and myself were concerned, were not open to the charge of hasty and precipitate action ! After 1874, there followed the controversy as to site already mentioned, and so it came about that four years later, at a Vestry Meeting held on November 7, 1878,. the question of the necessity for a better room for the 220 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVII. transaction of public business had again to be discussed, by way of stimulating the Local Board. At a further meeting on March 28, 1879, the matter was again considered, and the discussion adjourned for 3 months because the Local Board was including the purchase of a site for a Town Hall in its Bill for building a sea wall. The Board obtained its Bill and therewith powers to borrow money for buying a site and building a Hall. A new element of discord soon arose as to who should be the Architect, and what sort of a building was it that he was to design ? On July 7, 1879, the Local Board resolved to borrow 5000 on account of the proposed Town Hall. Then on November 3 it was decided to accept the Duke of Devonshire's offer to sell the Stocks Bank site for 3000, .and the general plan suggested was approved, though final protests were made that the site was out of the way and too far to the W. On April 5, 1880, after 23 designs had been submitted in competition, a premium of 75 was awarded to Mr. W. T. Foulkes, of Birmingham, and of 50 to Messrs. Barry, of Liverpool. These decisions were not, however, signs of progress, but quite the reverse. Opposition was offered to the adoption of any designs so costly, and the Board's Surveyor (Mr. E. W. O. F. Schmidt) was instructed to prepare a "cheap" plan. This he did. His plan was supposed to work out to 13,305, a figure which reconciled the " Do-nothing " party to doing something at last, and the Local Government Board authorised the borrowing of the necessary money, making up the total for Town Hall purposes to about 16,000. But this was not the end. Mr. Schmidt's plans were very generally condemned. I having lost my seat at the election of 1880, the Committee was re-constituted under a new Chairman. On March 5, 1883, the following significant Minute appears in the Local Board Minute Book : u Resolved : that with a view to allaying the uneasiness which prevails, all plans for a Town Hall be referred to a London architect of eminence." Mr. Henry Currey was selected as the expert adviser, CHAP. XVII.] A Town Hall at last ! 221 and his report was altogether adverse to Mr. Schmidt's plans, whilst he expressed approval of Mr. Foulkes's plans. It fell to my lot, having been re-elected to the Board in 1882, to move on May 7, 1883 : " That steps be taken to carry out Mr. Foulkes's plans at once, with some modifications suggested by Mr. Currey." And so after more than 10 years of agitation and unusually violent controversy all round we got our Town Hall. The final struggle by the " Do-nothing " obstructives took place on November 11, 1881, at the Local Government Inquiry as to the borrowing of the requisite money, capped by an Indignation Meeting on November 17 to vilify the Local Board. The foundation stone was laid on October 9, 1884 r by Lord Edward Cavendish, then M.P. for North Derbyshire, with the ceremonial usual on such occasions, followed of course by a mayoral feed and speech-making, in which I had to take a part as Chairman of the Committee which superintended the building of the Hall. The last part of the day's proceedings was carried out at the Devonshire Park Pavilion. The Town Hall was opened on October 20, 1886. The opening ceremonial Avas of the ordinary type ; various bowings and scrapings between different officials ; Prayers by the Vicar of East-Bourne, the Rev. T. Pitman, and music in the shape of Handel's " Hallelujah Chorus," Haydn s " The Heavens are telling," and of course the National Anthem. All this was followed hy a luncheon at 2.0 p.m., presided over by the Mayor, Alderman Boulton. A more extensive inaugural celebration was held 2 days later in the form of an evening reception by the Mayor and Mayoress attended by, to quote the language of ancient Greece, Oi TroAAoi. The history of open spaces in Eastbourne (or the lack of them) presents some points of interest. The circumstances under which Devonshire Park became a closed space is related in Chapter III. (ante). Its closure inspired me with a desire to take some definite steps to secure at least one open space somewhere in the centre of the town, which sooner or later might be 222 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVII. transformed from a mere space into a properly finished and equipped public Park. The fields then collectively known as the " South Fields " comprised a very large field of 28 acres, belonging to Mr. C. D. Gilbert, and 2 smaller fields, collectively making 14 acres, belonging to the Duke of Devonshire. I first broached the matter at a Meeting of the Local Board as far back as 1875. The Board responded to the suggestion, and negociations -were entered into with Mr. Gilbert's agent, Mr. Nicholas Whitley. Mr. Whitley professed himself friendly to the idea, if terms could be arranged. His original proposal was that the town should take a long lease of Mr. Gilbert's field, on a sliding scale of rent, which was to start at 20 a year, increasing thenceforward until some defined maximum was reached. What Mr. Whitley's idea of a maximum was, did not leak out until some time afterwards. Whilst the matter was in this nebulous condition, I went to see Mr. Henry Currey, the Duke of Devonshire's agent, to ascertain his views. He was most prompt in stating them, and frank at the same time. He said (I am giving his exact words) : " If you [i.e., the Local Board] can come to terms with Mr. Gilbert, I will .advise the Duke of Devonshire to give you his 14 acres, .and throwing all the fields into one, so make a complete .and central Public Park." Alas ! that this could not be carried out. Mr. Whitley's sliding scale as finally presented to the Board was a Rent growing from 20 a year in 1875 to 1000 a year in 1899. These last figures deterred the Local Board from any further attempts to .acquire the South Fields for public purposes, not- withstanding that much public anxiety was shown to bring about a settlement. I find in my Diaries notes of meetings to agitate the subject held at Mr. Howard Palmer's house on July 12, 1880 ; at the Lamb Inn on October 20, 1884 ; and at the Devonshire Park on November 7, 1884, besides which a very influential memorial from tenants on the Gilbert Estate to the same effect was got up by Mr. J. G. Langham in October 1884. It was signed by 51 tenants, owning 350,000 of property on the estate. CHAP. XVII.] Wanted : a Public Park. 223 The most serious discussion on the subject at the Local Board had taken place 011 November 6, 1882, when a memorial was presented to the Board to which 1100 signatures were attached, iirging the Board to make a further attempt to obtain Mr. Gilbert's Field (which came to be known as " Elphick's Field ") as a Public Park and Recreation Ground. Fortified by this strong expression from outside, I moved and carried the following resolution : " That a special Committee be appointed to ascertain what steps can best be taken to secure Elphick's Field." It will be observed that the language of this was very general, not to say vague, but I was content that it should be so in view of the feeling which existed in the minds of some of the members, that if my pet scheme of a 42-acre Park broke down (as it did eventually) from financial considerations, there might yet be a chance of securing a portion of Elphick's Field, and 11 acres was the area talked about at the meeting in question as the minimum worth trying for. This in point of fact has been (but in two stages), .something like the settlement of the question which is now (1910) in force. It will be observed however, that Mr. (Surrey's handsome offer of 1880 on the part of the Duke of Devonshire necessarily lapsed in view of the arrangement ultimately made with Mr. Gilbert. The foregoing is a very birds-eye view of the discussions which took place. Though the Committee appointed in November 1882, reported in favour of the acquisition of Elphick's Field, or of some part of it, it was virtually decided to let the matter go to sleep till the Incorporation of the town, then imminent, had taken place, when a new body, the Town Council, might be more inclined and more able to push the matter through. We tried and we failed again to bring about a satisfactory result, as will be readily understood when I mention that the sliding scale-rent demanded was 1000 a year from 1894 to 1913 ; then 1500 a year till 1943 ; ending with 2000 a year in perpetuity. The final result was that the Town Council obviously could not accept such terms, and in June 1887, Mr. Gilbert agreed to let the 224 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVII. Corporation have an interior area of 8-J- acres on lease for 50 years at the nominal rent of 1 a year, this said area to be called " Gildredge Park." This settlement of the question has since been revised and extended, but that is a matter beyond the range of this volume. Foiled in their endeavours to obtain a Public Park of adequate size and in a desirable situation, the Town Council long after my time purchased the " Willingdon Decoy " of Mr. Freeman-Thomas, and converted it into a public Open Space under the name of " Hampden Park." It has been laid out and improved with excellent taste, and nothing is wanted except a tramway to take you there. The situation may be summed up as follows : that, thanks to Lord Willingdon, East-Bourne now possesses a " lung " which may be said to match in some slight degree " Preston Park," Brighton ; the " East and West Hills " of Hastings; and " The Public Gardens " of Bournemouth, but far inferior in area and accessibility to all these 3. I forbear to prolong this chapter by any further allusion to controversial matters, but a big fight, in which I took some part, raged in the " Seventies " and " Eighties," from 1876 onwards, as to whether the Local Board or the Guardians should build a Hospital for Infectious Diseases. In the end there were 2 hospitals built to do the work (at that time) of one, and the Guardians, by prolonged " cussedness," saddled the ratepayers with an enormous building for non-infectious patients, which cost, I believe, 7000, and ought never to have been built. The Guardians also decided to build a new Workhouse at Polegate. That was a much more rational project, and though a quarter of a century has elapsed it still remains a projet de loi, as a Frenchman would call it. " Hfyt onljr jfojtg out 0f jrjerjjlmlg is irmsi0." (E. S. HAKDT.) o <0 in oo oo 2 *. * 1 UJ i = o t CO fe S [225] CHAPTER XVIII. ELECTIONS, PARLIAMENTARY. Effect of the growth of population on the increase of the number of Voters. East Sussex Polls from 1832 till 1880. East-Bourne Division Polls from 1885 to 1910. Notes on most of the Candidates during that period. Election meetings in former days. " ujglaiiir, i\t $$xri|)tr 0f ^arliamntts."( fl ) (JOHN BRIGHT.) ONE thing stands out very prominently in the history of East-Bourne from the standpoint of Elections. The extraordinary increase in the population 1851-1911 has led to an extraordinary developement in the statistics relating to voting for all public purposes. To make my story more interesting, because more complete, I will begin 25 years before my own personal knowledge begins. I will start with the year 1832, the date of the passing of the Reform Bill. 1832, DECEMBEE. GENEEAL ELECTION. Cavendish, Hon. C. C. (Whig) .. 2388 Curteis, H. B. (Whig) .. .. 1931 Darby, G. (Tory) 668 The above figures showed the Tories to be so completely outnumbered for the time that the General Election of 1835 passed off without a contest, the old Members being returned again. 1835, JANUARY. GENBBAL ELECTION. Cavendish, Hon. C. C. (Whig). Curteis, H. B. (Whig). When 1837 arrived the reaction against the Whigs, which had taken place all over England, was found) to (a) But now with its House of Commons suffering from " Senile Decay," to quote a medical term. Q 226 have spread to East Sussex, as the following figures will show : 1837, AUGUST. GENERAL ELECTION. Darby, G. (Tory) 2256 Cavendish Hon. C. C. (Whig) .. 1793 Fuller, A. E. (Tory) 1749 Cuneis, H. B .(Whig) .. .. 1619 I have before me a copy of the Poll Book of the 1837 Election. There were only 8 polling places in East Sussex, and 4821 electors less for the whole county division than the number now registered for the single parish of East-Bourne. The 8 polling places were : Lewes, Brighton, Cuckfield, East Grinstead, Mayfield, Battle, Hastings, and Rye. East-Bourne voters had to vote at Lewes, conveyed there at the expense of the Candidates, as was usual under the old system of Parliamentary Elections. The number of East-Bourne voters was 81, of whom no fewer than 65 voted, as was natural, for Cavendish, 38 for Curteis, 16 for Darby, and 2 for Fuller. With the exception of the 2 split votes, which Mr. Fuller shared with Mr. Darby, it is evident that the few Conservative voters all deemed it politic to give their second votes to the Cavendish candidate. The two uncompromising Tories were John Row, who I remember as living in the house opposite the Anchor Hotel, in recent years occupied by a grocer named Gosling ; and Col. J. H. Willard, Colonel of the Sussex Militia, then the owner of The Lawn, Old Town, long the residence of the late Mr. J. Ellis. The East-Bourne register of 1837 contains a number of names which still survive in the persons of sons and grandsons, or other near relatives. Amongst these may be mentioned the names of Baker, Brodie, Cavendish, Dumbrell, Ford, Gilbert, Graham, Gorringe, Hoad, Head, Hart, Hurst, Luck, Maynard, Morris, Newman, Prodger, Reed, Stretton, Towner, Vine and Waymark. The General Election of 1841 was in many respects a prototype of that of 1910. Just as Mr. Asquith had muddled away his majority and broken up his party, and shown an utter incapacity to govern, so did -CHAP. XVIII.] Parliamentary Elections, 1841-1857. 227 Lord Melbourne accompli sh the same results in the 4 years which ended with July 1841. He dissolved, after being beaten by a majority of 1 on a " No Confidence " motion, and the country responded by confirming this vote by a majority of 91. 1841, JULY. GENEBAL ELECTION. Darby, G. (Conservative) . . . . 2398 Fuller, A. E. (Conservative) . . 2367 Shelley, J. V. (Liberal) . . . . 995 1846, JANUABY. Mr. Darby appointed Inclosure Commissioner. Frewen, C. H. Mr. Darby resigned his seat for the reason above stated, but Mr. Fuller, his colleague of 1841, retained his seat for 16 years. 1847, AUGUST. GENEEAL ELECTION. Fuller, A. E. (Conservative). Frewen, C. H. (Conservative). 1852, JULY. GENEEAL ELECTION. Fuller, A. E. (Conservative) .. 2155 Frewen, C. H. (Conservative) .. 1974 Dodson, J. G. (Liberal) .. .. 1637 Mr. Dodson was then quite a young man, and unknown except as the son of Sir John Dodson, Dean of the Arches Court of Canterbury, but the figures above quoted show conclusively that the principles which he represented liad a considerable hold in the constituency, and that his success might reasonably be looked for at a later period, and this, indeed, eventually came to pass. Things remained quiet in the division until January 1857, when the County was startled one morning by an announcement that Mr. Frewen had resigned a fairly safe seat in order to go and fight a very ridiculous contest with a brother Conservative Lord J. J. R. Manners (Duke of Rutland) in Leicestershire. The Candidate who came out to succeed Mr. Frewen on the Conservative side was Viscount Pevensey, afterwards Earl of Sheffield, the great friend and patron of cricketers and Volunteers. At the poll in March, 1857, the numbers were : Pevensey, Viscount (Conservative) . . 2302 Dodson, J. G. (Liberal) .. .. 2234 This election was virtually thrown away, because everything had to be done over again in less than 4 228 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XVIIL weeks, Parliament having been dissolved after the vote of censure on Lord Palmerston, anent the China question. 1857, April 7. GENERAL ELECTION. Dodson, J. G. (Liberal) . . . . 2524 Fevensey, Viscount (Conservative) 2447 Cavendish, Col. W. H. F. (Liberal) 2286 Fuller, A. E. (Conservative) .. 2216 It may be interesting to exhibit the results of the voting in the various Polling Districts : GENERAL ELECTION, 1857. Dodson. Cavendish. Pevensey. Brighton . Lewes Hastings . Cuckfield East Grinstead Mayfield . Battle Rye 1070 429 198 159 151 210 189 127 2524 990 382 182 119 130 191 173 119 2286 433 565 193 213 200 445 249 149 2447 Fuller. 354 514 164 196 183 418 252 135 2216 Brighton was a stronghold of Radicalism half a century ago, and that gave a colouring to the vote of the Brighton non-resident freeholders, thus completely swamping the political opinions of the country districts. Parties being so evenly divided, and, moreover,, financially exhausted (for each had spent more than 15,000 in 1857), it was agreed in 1859 to call a truce and leave the representation divided, so Lord Pevensey and Mr. Dodson had a " walk over " at the General Election in April 1859. In those days elections were very different from what they are now. Each party had one meeting in each considerable town or village, and that was about all ; the smaller villages were not taken much into account. In 1865 there was another very severe contest. 1865, JULY. GENEBAL ELECTION. Dodson, J. G. (Liberal) .. .. 2821 Cavendish, Lord E. (Liberal) . . 2647 Burrell, W. W. (Conservative) . . 2463 Abbott, Hon. R. C. E. (Conservative) 2316 Mr. Burrell afterwards became known as Sir Walter Burrell, being the second son of Sir Charles M. Burrell, who died in 1862, after having sat for Shoreham since 1806 a period of 56 years. Just conceive the tons of Blue Books which that good old man must have amassed CHAP. XVIIL] Parliamentary Elections, 1S65-1868. 229 during the long period of 56 years. I remember hearing him make a speech in the House of Commons only a few months before his death, at the age of 88. The crushing character of this defeat served the good purpose of bringing it home to the Conservatives that their only chance of regaining any position in East Sussex was by resorting to organisation of the most thorough character, and accordingly, in July 1865, after the election was over, a meeting of Conservatives was, by way of a beginning, held at East-Bourne, which resulted in the formation of the first East-Bourne Conservative Association. I had the honour of being elected the organising secretary of the new departure, and occupied that honourable but honorary position for 15 years, when the great growth of the work, the result of the growth of the town of East-Bourne, compelled me to retire and give place to a paid agent. Our meetings were at first held at the offices of a solicitor in the Terminus Road, but afterwards and for the bulk of the time we enjoyed the hospitality of Mr. C. Diplock, holding our meetings in his drawing-room, over the shop at the Pevensey Road corner of the Terminus Road (now Young and Rawley's). In the work of these 15 years I received very material assistance from several gentlemen in the town, notably the late Mr. J. B. Morris. The task of purifying and expanding the Register, perseveringly carried on, reached its climax in November 1868, in conjunction, of course, with other organised efforts in other parts of the Division. When the Poll at the General Election of that year was officially declared the numbers were found to be as follows : 1868, DECEMBEE. GENERAL ELECTION. Dodson, J. G. (Liberal) .. .. 3611 Gregory, G. B. (Conservative) .. 3581 Scott, M. D. (Conservative) . . . . 3560 Cavendish, Lord E. (Liberal) . . 3470 Our recovery of 1 seat was very largely due to the unceasing efforts of the late Rev. J. Goring, of Wiston, and Mr. G. Darby (the former M.P.), stumping the county to unfold the serious points involved in the Irish Church. Controversy. 230 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVIIL This success stimulated the Conservative Party all over the county to renewed efforts to organise the out-voters, with the result that at the General Election of 1874 Mr. Gregory retained his seat and Mr. Scott captured Mr. Dodson's seat without a poll. The strength of the Conservatives up to this time had been in the country districts, the Mayfield polling district being a specially Tory stronghold, and Brighton and East-Bourne Radical strongholds. In 1868 there was in East-Bourne a Radical preponderance of 5 to 1, which we estimated in 1874 had been reduced to 2% to 1 (375 Radicals to 166 Tories), or perhaps even lower, whilst more recent elections have been thought to have yielded an actual Conservative preponderance as regards the Parish of East-Bourne. This, however, is no more than the result disclosed in all England. In other words, the Radical strength no longer lies in the towns, where education and intellectual progress prevails more than it did 50 years ago, but in the rural districts, where education is less advanced, and books and newspapers are less circulated. The soundness of this reasoning will be understood by comparing the voting by polling districts in 1868 with the figures for 1857, given on a previous page. The Radical preponderance of Brighton fell in those 11 years from 2-| to 1 to If to 1, having been at the intermediate figure of 2 to 1 at the intermediate election of 1865. GENERAL ELECTION, 1868. Dodson. Cavendish. Gregory, Scott. Brighton.. 1066 1035 609 647 Lewes Hastings.. Cuckfield East Grin stead Mayfield . . TJckfield .. Hailsham Battle Rye 358 328 487 476 361 346 269 265 255 231 366 360 284 279 264 262 243 238 602 599 161 150 225 217 526 535 279 281 243 220 276 252 114 108 204 201 3611 3470 3581 3560 When the next General Election occurred, which was in 1880, the Liberals made a desperate attack on the 2 Conservative East Sussex seats, but failed utterly, and this was the more remarkable, seeing that the Election CHAP. XVIII.] Parliamentary Election, 1S80. 231 in question resulted in England generally in the overthrow of the Beaconsfield Government, but perhaps something must be set down to the fact that Mr. Donovan was only celebrated as a M.F.H., and Mr. Pearson was only a " Carpet-Bagger," to use a familiar American expression. The figures of the Poll were as follows : 1880, APEIL. GENERAL ELECTION. Gregory, G. B. (Conservative) .. 4526 Scott, M. D. (Conservative) . . 4396 Donovan, A. (Liberal) .. .. 2982 Pearson, J., Q. C. (Liberal) .. .. 2863 Before proceeding farther, it may be worth while to give in a few words some clue to the personality of the Candidates on both sides between 1832 and 1880. The Hon. C. C. Cavendish was a member of the ducal House of Devonshire, being the 4th son of Lord George Cavendish, who in 1831 was created Earl of Burlington. Mr. Cavendish was himself made a Peer in 1858, under the title of Baron Chesham. Mr. H. B. Curteis, defeated in the County in 1837, was elected Member for Rye in 1841, and sat for that constituency until his death in 1847. The present owner of Windmill Hill is his grandson. The Mr. J. V. Shelley of 1841 afterwards succeeded to a baronetcy, and sat for Westminster from 1852 till 1865. Mr. J. G. Dodson, after withdrawing from East Sussex in 1874, and allowing Mr. Scott to walk over, became Member for Chester at the then General Election, and was raised to the Peerage as Baron Monk- Bretton in 1884. Viscount Pevensey afterwards succeeded his father as Earl of Sheffield, and was the well-known patron of cricket and Volunteers, who died in 1909. The Earldom died with him, but his Irish Barony of Sheffield passed to his cousin, the 4th Lord Stanley of Alderley. Colonel W. H. F. Cavendish was colonel of the Derbyshire Militia, and a son of General the Hon. H. E. Cavendish, a son of the 1st Earl of Burlington, and therefore uncle of the 7th Duke of Devonshire. Colonel Cavendish's younger brother, Mr. F. W. H. Cavendish, 232 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVIII. resided many years in East-Bourne until his death. He was a J.P., and took an active part in local affairs. An elder sister, who died in 1881, was Countess of Cawdor, and a younger sister, Caroline, was the well-known Maid of Honour to Queen Victoria. She died in 1910. Lord E. Cavendish was the youngest son of the 7th Duke of Devonshire, and father of the present Duke. Mr. W. W. Burrell afterwards succeeded to a baronetcy on the death of his brother, Sir Percy Burrell, their father, Sir C. Burrell, having as already stated, sat for Shoreham for 56 years. This made him at the time the " Father of the House." The Hon. R. C. E. Abbott is the present Lord Colchester. Mr. G. B. Gregory was a well-known London solicitor, and head of the firm of Gregory, Rowcliffe & Co. Travelling with Sir H. H. Fowler, M.P. (now Viscount Wolverhampton), on October 15, 1884, he said to me : " You may be interested to know that your Member, Gregory, is the one Member on your side of the House to whom Gladstone always listens, and whose suggestions he always desires to act upon, if possible." To make the Political History of East-Bourne complete, I append without much note or comment a statement of the Elections which have taken place since 1880 down to 1910, merely remarking that under the Redistribution Act of 1885, Sussex as a whole was cut up into 6 County Divisions, each with one Member only, East-Bourne becoming the centre of the " East-Bourne or Southern Division of Sussex." As the result of the Redistribution Act, Mr. Gregory selected the East Grinstead Division as his constituency, and Mr. Scott retired altogether from Parliament, so East-Bourne had to find a new Conservative Candidate. Several Candidates were talked about ; amongst them Sir Henry Fletcher, who was invited, but declined (preferring to stand for the Lewes Division, which elected him soon afterwards) ; Mr. W. L. Christie, the Member for the Borough of Lewes, disfranchised by the Redistribution Act in 1885 ; and Captain Edward Field, who, accepted as the Conservative Candidate for CHAP. XVIIL] Parliamentary Elections, 1885-1910. 233 Brighton, was shunted thence under an Award by Lord Salisbury to permit Mr. Marriott, Q.C., who had "ratted" from the Liberal Party, being taken over as a Conserva- tive Candidate. Hence it was that East-Bourne came to get Captain (afterwards Admiral) Field, who proved to be a very efficient and popular Member. * 1885, DKCEMBEE 5. GENEEAL ELECTION. Field, Captain E. (Conservative) .. 3561 Wallis, G. A. (Liberal) . . . . 3497 1886, JULY 9. GENEEAL ELECTION. Field, Admiral E. (Conservative) .. 3760 Brown, Col. J. C. (Liberal) .. .. 2501 1892, JULY 12. GENEEAL ELECTION. Field, Admiral E. (Conservative) . . 4037 Brand, Captain Eon. T. S. (Liberal) 3674 1895, JULY 22. GENEEAL ELECTION. Field, Admiral E. (Conservative) .. 4139 Brand, Captain Hon. T. S. (Liberal) 4079 1900, October 15. GENEBAL ELECTION. Hogg, L. (Conservative) . . . . 4948 Brand, Admiral Hon. T. S. (Liberal) 4245 1906, JANUARY 17. GENEEAL ELECTION. Beaumont, Hon. H. G. (Radical) . . 5933 Hogg, Sir Z., Bt., (Conservative) . . 5303 1910, JANUARY 21. GENEBAL ELECTION. Gwynne, R. S. (Conservative) . . 7553 Morrison, H. (Radical) . . . . 5249 With the General Election of 1880 I ceased to have any special responsibility for the management of the affairs of the Conservative Party in the town or district. Five years later various changes in everything became indispensable, owing to the Redistribution Act and the break-up of the Gladstoiiian Party. The latter event involving the alliance of the Liberal Unionists with the Conservative Party was a matter of great moment in East-Bourne politics, owing to the altered political positions of Lord Hartington (as he then was) and other members of the Ducal House of Devonshire. A Primrose League Habitation (No. 286) was started in East-Bourne very soon after the League was founded, and splendid work was done by it in 1885 * Another possible Candidate would probably have been chosen before all those just named, had he got home from India in time Sir James Fergusson. 234 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XVIIL and 1886, but the new Conservative Association of 1885 did not appreciate at their proper value the services rendered by the ladies of East-Bourne and a feud, started by a very self-seeking politician, and endiDg in the break-up of the Habitation, was the first result, the ultimate result being that Admiral Field's majority of 1259 in 1886 fell to 363 in 1892. That this was simple cause and effect admits of not the least doubt. Much more recently, another Habitation was formed (No. 2216), and it has done, and is still doing, splendid work under my old friend Sir. C. 0. Fitzgerald, K.C.B., and a very efficient staff of lady workers. The East-Bourne voting strength of the 2 political parties made little or no progress between 1837 and 1857, when, if my memory serves me, the Conservatives polled no more than about a dozen votes, and the Liberals no more than about 4 dozen. I have no record by parishes of the 1865 Election, but in 1868 East-Bourne sent to the poll 75 Conservatives as against 333 Liberals, one man recording a split vote, and so abstaining. The split vote was that of a butcher who no doubt had an eye to trade, as he was able to tell customers on both sides- that he had voted for their side. In 1857, though the Vestry Room in Grove Road() was a fair-sized room, I do not remember that it was used for Parliamentary election purposes. At any rate, it was in a large room (built for the Foresters) at the Squirrel Inn, alias the Gilbert Arms, at the corner of Grove Roadw that Lord Pevensey came to speak on February 19, 1857. Mr. Dodson's followers assembled 3 days previously at the Anchor Hotel. Colonel Cavendish did not appear till March 21. I attended all 3 meetings. Lord Pevensey met with a good deal of interruption, his being an evening meeting Radical hecklers had their chance. In the "Sixties" and "Seventies" most election and other public meetings were held at a place known as " Diplock's Assembly Room," a room forming part of (a) On the site of the present Fire Station. (b) On the site of the houses numbered 134, Terminus Road and 2 12, Grove Road. CHAP. XVIII.] Political Meetings. 235- " Diplock's Hotel," in the Terminus Road. When the Devonshire Park Pavilion was built, that was resorted to for all important meetings, but the Town Hall, so soon as it was available, took its place for most public, including election, assemblages on a large scale, and has been generally used ever since. Here mention rnay be made of two political meetings, .which may be remarked as two of the most important of the many I have attended in East-Bourne. The first was on June 24, 1892, and was held at the Devonshire Park as a great Unionist demonstration in support of Admiral Field's candidature. The Duke of Devonshire was the principal speaker, but by way (I suppose) of giving a Liberal Unionist colour to the business, he stipulated that the late Lord Monk-Bretton should be Chairman. The second great meeting which I have in my mind took place at the Devonshire Park Theatre on March 22, 1893, and was especially an anti-Home Rule demonstration, It was preceded by a pleasant dinner at Mr. G. A. Wallis's,, at which the guests were, besides Admiral Field, Mr. Victor Cavendish (now 9th Duke of Devonshire), Sir E. Carson, Q.C., M.P., and myself. The meeting, as a meeting, was an unparalleled success, to which I tried to contribute by a short speech. East-Bourne political meetings have never been much favoured by the presence of prominent politicians- on either side. I can recall within my time limits for this book only Mr. Austen Chamberlain, M.P., and Mr. Cochrane Patrick, M.P., besides those already named. Mr. Asquith came down professionally to defend the Salvation Army street rioters in 1891. " Counrillors of jiate sit plotting anir plying trir Jnglr rlrcss game, foljmof t|rc nafons aw nun." (CARLYLE.) frlic semi of jcloqut net is ircrg sintjjh : Knofolcoge ano miwstness."- (BisHOP THOROLD.) 'gin 6nglis|ittr3tt is rontnit to sag nothing fo|mt \t Ijas nothing to sag." (DR. JOHNSON.)- But with some people it is " SStoros, Horos, matin" (Samlet.) " gin (Sxrlrrqufr of SStorbs." ( Tico Gentlemen of J'erona.) [236] CHAPTER XIX. MISCELLANEOUS. Population Statistics. Guy Fawkes Day. A snow hut. East-Bourne Postal arrangements in 1874. Season Extension Movement. The " Guardian " Newspaper and Mr. Disraeli. A Sermon on Sheep-stealing. Convicted of manslaughter for stealing a pair of Breeches. Russian prisoners .at Lewes. Unreformed Corporations. "Bradford" or "Bedford" Well. Ladies at Public Dinners. East- Bourne Printers. An Old Style Dinner. A Drive in Derbyshire. A visit to Holker Hall. Fire Engines. Lord Randolph Churchill. The Lanyon Family. Bread the " Staff of Life " (sometimes). Weddings, 1846-1902. Syllabub Parties. A Garden Party .at Compton Place. Hoiv Fiction may become " History." Pigs as Engineers. Banks at East-Bourne. Sussex Coaches in 1804. East-Bourne in 1809. East-Bourne in 1812.- East-Bourne Bathing in 1819. Sea- Bathing. A Fancy Dress Ball. A China (not Chinese) Story. The Story of a Clock. Links ivith the Past. Sunday League Excursions to East- Bourne. A Ladies' Committee. A "Liberal" Dinner at East-Bourne. The Wreck of the "Nympha Americana" Extracts from Old Letters of Dr. Brodie. Penalties attaching to Authorship. " Sfre ghMb gpswllang." (TENNYSON.) make gour jcftoitt." (Merchant of Venice.) " $ totll belief foilt not utter fofcai tftou Jrost not lutofo : so far foill 3 trust tfrw." (Henry IV., pt. 1.) WHEN the reader has completed his perusal of this chapter I am sure he will say that it more fully justifies its title than any other in the book, for it will be found to contain a variety of items concerning, or in some way connected with, East-Bourne, put together in most disjointed sequence, but which I did not seem able to classify under any previous head. POPULATION STATISTICS. Perhaps nothing will illustrate more vividly the changes which East-Bourne has undergone during my CHAP. XIX.] Population of East-Bourne. 237 time than a statement of Census results. The population at the undermentioned epochs was as follows : Year. Population. Year. Population. 1801 1668 1861 5778 1811 1821 1831 1841 1851 2623 1871 2607 1881 2726 1891 3015 1901 3433 10,342 21,510 34,244 43,344 From the above figures it will be seen that the- population of the Parish of East -Bourne, almost stationaiy during the 40 years 1811 51, actually decreased between 1811 and 1821 ; and that it was not until 1871 that notable signs of progress became manifest, GUY FAWKES DAY. Sussex has always been famous for its 5th of November celebrations, and Lewes has long been at the top of the tree in the matter. East-Bourne, however, has seldom failed to make a good show. Those whose memories take them back to the years 1850 and 1851 will remember that what was called the " Papal Aggression " of the former year gave a great impetus to the Guy Fawkes celebrations, and that the Pope especially came in for a large measure of patronage at the hands of the " Bonfire Boys." I must confess that the 5th of November festival always obtained my hearty support, and that there was nothing which I subscribed to more regularly or willingly. The year 1857 provided a new candidate for Guy Fawkes honours, in the person of the notorious Indian murderer, Nana Sahib. East-Bourne itself in 1860 provided another candidate, in the person of the schoolmaster mentioned elsewhere. The Incorporation of the town in 1883 had the somewhat inconvenient effect of giving us two Oth's of November ; one on the 5th and the other on the 9th. I think it would be correct to say that the Bonfire Societies transferred their attentions from the 5th to the 9th, leaving the former to the little boys. At any rate, I 238 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XIX. know that in 1883, and for a number of years afterwards, every Mayoral Dinner was interrupted at about 10 p.m. by a procession through the Banqueting Chamber of some 2 dozen "Bonfire Boys," dressed in alarming costumes, and making hideous noises, ending in a speech by their leader to the new Mayor, congratulating him, to which he had to make a suitable reply. One Winchester was great at this business. The interruption had, however, this one advantage, that it enabled guests who, like myself, had delivered our speeches and loathed tobacco, or who, like my friend Major , were glad of .any excuse to get away early from the festive board, to do so, and escape observation to a great extent. This interruption ceased some years ago, but I am unable to assign a date, or to know to whom to give the credit, and now the 5th has, I believe, recovered its individuality, not having any competitor. A SNOW HUT. The winter of 1849 50 was noteworthy for a severe and unusually prolonged frost, which lasted exactly 5 weeks from December 20 till January 25. As this followed a heavy fall, of snow, snow remained unmelted for a period much longer than usual in the S. of England. At East-Bourne, with my valuable assistance, 2 uncles of mine built a snow hut, somewhat in the Esquimaux style, and it has occurred to me that my younger readers might like to have some information for their guidance as to how it was done. I will frame the information somewhat in the form of a cookery book paragraph. Select a fairly level site, preferably on grass, and clear a circular space 7, 8 or 9 ft. in diameter. Build up the snow removed from this space on its outer edge to make the beginning of a wall, leaving a gap in the wall about 3 feet wide for an entrance. Then, working outside and inside the dwarf wall simultaneously, collect snow from outside so as to make a circular ring fully 3 ft. in thickness, and carried up to a height of about 7 ft., ramming and beating with the back of spades to OHAP. XIX.] A Snow Rut. 239 consolidate the mass as much, as possible. Make the top -of the 7-ft. wall as nearly level as possible, and lay across it some straight wooden poles say a dozen in number, parallel to one another [we used Surveyors' poles]. On the top of these lay clean straw to a thickness of 3 or 4 inches. Then on the top of the straw place snow to the thickness of about 2 ft., and ram it well by .a person of light weight treading on it. If the work has been well and carefully done, the wooden rods may be pulled out, and such of the straw as seems inclined to drop may be allowed to drop and be carried away, and the hut will be complete when the holes in the wall, caused by the removal of the rods, have been filled up. A hut thus constructed at The Gore in December 1849, remained habitable, so to speak, for 3 weeks, and tea was served in it. Of course, if there is any doubt as to the snow holding together and the roof remaining sound, the wooden rods had better not be pulled out, but the tout ensemble of the structure is greatly improved by the roof showing nothing but snow with a little straw sticking to it. Snow lay on the ground again at East-Bourne for a prolonged period in January and February 1855. This was the celebrated " Crimean Winter." At Brighton, where I was at school, I remember seeing the water frozen on the seashore. EAST-BOURNE POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS IN 1874. The year 1874 saw the 26th anniversary of the running of trains from London to East-Bourne, but will it be believed that, notwithstanding this railway communication, the ordinary Night Mails to East-Bourne reached East-Bourne by train from London via Staple- hurst, in Kent, and were thence conveyed 40 miles across country by a horse and cart ; and vice versa ! As the conveyance was accomplished by night, the inhabitants generally knew nothing much about the matter, though visitors were a little surprised that, notwithstanding the iact that East-Bourne was only 60 miles from London, 240 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. they were obliged to put their evening letters into the post at the early hour of 7 p.m. It so happened, however,, that in the month of December 1874 there was much frost and snow, and during the week before Christmas the morning delivery of letters, instead of taking place at 8 a.m., was for several days running delayed till 12.0 or 1.0 in the day, and on December 17 did not take place till 6.0 in the afternoon, which was after the Night Mail had been closed, because, if the letters were to catch the up train at Staplehurst, an extra couple of hours had to- be placed at the disposal of the poor horse who drew them. It may naturally be supposed that great indignation prevailed in the town on the subject. As Lewes and Hastings were in the same boat with East-Bourne, arrangements were made for a deputation to the Postmaster-General on January 13, 1875, to- remonstrate. I and somebody else went to speak on behalf of East-Bourne, and Lewes and Hastings each sent 2 or 3 representatives. I remember that, when we assembled in the ante-room of the Postmaster-General (Lord J. Manners), our County Member, Mr. G. B. Gregory, who introduced us, expressed great disgust at the small number of Sussex men who had arrived to put pressure on the Post Office. Mr. Gregory's actual words were : " If places in Lancashire had been treated by the Post Office in the way in which you gentlemen and your neighbours have been treated, this large room would not have held the grumblers who would have travelled 200 miles to grumble." However, if our bodily presence was contemptible, our cause was too strong to be ignored by the authorities, and in a very short time (July 1, 1875) East Sussex had the pleasure of finding that their letters arrived by rail at midnight for delivery the next morning ; and could be posted at East-Bourne as late as 9 p.m. Perhaps the obvious reform was hastened on by the following announcement in a Hastings newspaper, in one of its issues of May 1875 : " The delivery of the letters on Tuesday morning was 2 hours late. Near Sedlescombe the horse bringing the Mail cart to Hastings died on the road" Plate XLVII. To face p. 240. Figs. 84-85. HOLKER HALL, LANCASHIRE. Julia Cowling, VIEW OF MEADS. 1860. CHAP. XIX.] Postal Arrangements. 241 It remains to be added that from that day to this St. Martin's-le-Grand has often failed to provide adequate accommodation at East-Bourne for the business there, at the Head Office wherever it was. SEASON EXTENSION MOVEMENT. On February 2, 1882, a meeting was held at the Gildredge Hotel, to consider whether any organised effort could be made to bring about a lengthening of the East-Bourne Summer Season. This meeting was very numerously attended by persons belonging to all classes : many suggestions were offered, owners and tenants, professional men and tradesmen, taking part in the discussion and finally a very strong and representative Committee, which eventually numbered 60 members, was appointed to consider the whole subject. The matter was further discussed at another meeting and a Sub-Committee of 16 members was chosen by ballot to put the whole subject into shape and to submit it to a public meeting of townspeople. I was chosen one of the 16, and Mr. G. A. Wallis was appointed Chairman. A very elaborate scheme of advertising by posters hand- books and newspaper advertisements was planned and carried out, and I have no doubt whatever that great good was done by the publicity which was obtained, for it brought the claims of the town before people at a distance who were in search of localities to reside in or to visit. It was estimated that to do the work properly, 2000 a year was required for 3 years, but no such sum as this was raised ; I think no more than about 600. The one item in the scheme which for somewhat obvious reasons excited most distrust, and in point of fact was never carried out, was thus specified in the circular issued by the Commitee, " That subsidies should be granted to various local places of amusement and resort to encourage them to keep going high class entertain- ments from Easter to Christmas." I think that some of the townspeople sniffed * Devonshire Park ' in these words and therefore looked askance at them. 242 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. A revival of this movement took place in 1906 by the formation of the " East-Bourne Advertising Association," but a statement respecting its operations would be beyond the prescribed limits of time of this book. THE " GUARDIAN " NEWSPAPER AND MR. DISRAELI. I was dining on November 5, 1880, at a dinner party in Grange Gardens, and during dinner was much struck with the violent language of one of the guests in denouncing the late Prime Minister, Lord Beaconsfield. After the ladies had left the room, this unknown gentleman continued his vituperation. I pass over my feelings of indignation, but I sought an opportunity afterwards to ascertain the name of the great man's traducer, and it turned out that it was , the Editor of the Guardian. This discovery explained everything as to why such venomous language had so frequently appeared in the columns of the Guardian, combined with such extensive laudation of his rival, Mr. Gladstone. I know not whether the Editor ever had any qualms of conscience in respect of this matter ; but this I do know, that many years afterwards, talking over Gladstone's political decadence as manifested by his Home Rule schemes, John Walter of The Times, told me that he, at any rate, had repented of the prolonged and somewhat unqualified support which he in former years had given to Gladstone through the columns of The Times, whereby he had acquired and used such powers of mischief. A SERMON ON SHEEP-STEALING. Amongst a volume of Sermons in manuscript preached by my grandfather in East-Bourne Church I find one, dated July 4, 1819, on the text Psalm xix, 13, from which I make the following extract : " What think you of that poor man in a neighbouring Parish who was lately convicted for sheep-stealing ? Did not his conduct lead to disgrace and will not his end be punishment ? This man . . . unfortunately took a turn from the Church ; and being easily persuaded that there was no harm to rob the King he took a turn to smuggling. Finding there was no harm to rob the King, he also thought that there could be no harm to rob his neighbour CHAP. XIX.] Sheep Stealing. 243 and therefore took to sheep-stealing. Probably before he arrived to this pitch of wickedness he took a turn for barley-stealing, grit-stealing, or, in the language of St. Paul, ' to purloining his Master's goods.' What turn think you will this frail brother take next ? If all be true, a turn upon the gallows." It will be remembered that the penalty of death, for felony was not abolished until 1821 and later years, depending on what the felony was. CONVICTED OF MANSLAUGHTER FOR STEALING A PAIR OF BREECHES. From East-Bourne and its Environs, the first local guide-book published in 1787, I copy the following : " At a Quarter Sessions [at Pevensey] somo years back, a man was brought to the bar, charged with stealing a pair of buck-skin breeches, which charge being fully proved, he was found guilty by the jury ; but when the Court werb informed that the offence was a capital one and that they must proceed to pass sentence, they were so much alarmed that they wished to reverse the verdict and give a fresh one, in such words as to make the consequence less than death ; they therefore adjourned the Court, and dispatched a messenger to Thomas Willard, Esq., of East-Bourne, the then town clerk (whose deputy was on that day attending), to beg his opinion whether it was possible to reverse the present verdict, and receive a fresh one. together with his instructions how to proceed. It happened that Lord Wilmington, to whom, this place at that time belonged, with the then Chief Baron of the Exchequer, were at dinner with Mr. Willard when this curious application arrived, to whom Mr. W. having reported the contents, the Chief Baron jocosely said, Instruct them to reverse the present verdict, and bring it in ' manslaughter," to which Lord Wilmington consenting, Mr. W. advised accordingly, and a new verdict to that effect was absolutely the consequence." (/>. 59. ) RUSSIAN PRISONERS AT LEWES. During the Crimean War a large number of Russian prisoners were incarcerated in the Naval Prison at Lewes. I visited the place on April 5, 1855. They were a quiet, well-behaved set of men, who gave little or no trouble. They earned a little money for themselves by wood-carving, making small articles of various kinds. I bought a puzzle which, after I had preserved it for many years as an interesting relic, disappeared as such things do, without leaving any message behind them as to where they have gone. UNREFORMED CORPORATIONS. Some of my readers may know, and some may not know, that under an Act of Parliament passed in 1835 241 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CiiAP. XIX. all the more important Municipal Corporations in England were what is euphemistically called " reformed," though the word in question has too often been equivalent to " plundered " when a " Liberal " Government had any part in the " reform." But a considerable number of the smaller Corporations in England were not included in the operations of the Act of 1835. These remained undisturbed till 1883, when by the Act 46 and 47 Vict. r c. 18, they also were upset and plundered. Pevensey and Seaford were 2 towns so treated. Their historical antecedents and status are recorded in a Blue-book, published in 1880 by a Royal Commission/^ The details as regards Pevensey are particularly curious and interesting. Pevensey was governed by a High Bailiff, assisted by certain persons called Jurats. The Bailiff's annual salary w^as 2 ; that of the Jurats 6s. Sd. The Town Clerk's salary was 6 5s. 7d. The Bailiff and Jurats exercised magisterial functions as regards the trial of prisoners and the licensing of public houses. Courts of Quarter Sessions were held quarterly for the purpose of making Rates, but not for the trial of prisoners. These were only tried at the Monthly Petty Sessions. On conviction, a prisoner would be sent to- Lewes Gaol. An installation dinner, paid for out of the Corporate Funds, was held every year. The annual income for 1875 was 113, and the expenditure 169, but that was an exceptional year. The Corporation possessed funded and other property which at the break-up was distributed in divers and sundry directions. The Mace is now on show in Pevensey Church. " BRADFORD " OR " BEDFORD " WELL. The well at the Waterworks, seen on entering East-Bourne by railway, is now-a-days generally called Bedford Well, but it was not so called in my early days. I never knew it by any other name than " Bradford's Well " or " The Bradford Well," and I have heard that it received its designation from a man named Bradford (a) C. 2490, Sess. 1880. Price is. iod. CHAP. XIX.] ." Bedford" WeB^ 215 having fallen into the well, and being drowned there. The story runs "that he was a sheep-stealer, and was on a nocturnal raid when the accident happened. LADIES AT PUBLIC DINNERS. Mr. G. A. Wallis, at his first Mayoral Banquet on December 20, 1883, set an example which I am sorry none of his successors ever followed. He invited the gentlemen to bring their wives or a daughter. I insisted on the same thing at the 2 " House of Commons " Dinners over which I presided. I think a Dinner of men only is a dull function. It is more than that, for it is made an excuse for pipes and " baccy," which I loathe. EAST-BOURNE PRINTERS. East-Bourne had no resident printer until about 1850, when a man named William Mott set up in a little shop at the entrance to School- Yard from Church Street, now occupied by a cobbler. Mott remained in business for I think 5 years. I knew him and frequently amused myself by watching him at work, but more than that, he printed my first publication a 4-page commentary on the Lord's Prayer ! Up till the time of Mott's arrival, all the East-Bourne printing had been done at Hailsham, first by George Breads, followed by his son Stephen Breads and his grandsons Alfred and Morgan Breads. Alfred died and Morgan took to the turf with the usual results of doing so. The Hailsham business is still in the hands of the Breads' family under another name. The foundation of the business goes back to the beginning of the 19th Century. After Mott, the next East-Bourne printer was Cyrus Clark, who, in July 1859, added the printing of a newspaper, the East-Bourne Gazette, to his ordinary business. He was followed by a very cantankerous man \V. S. Doeg, who, judging by his character quite as much as by his name, must have been a relation of Doeg the Edomite, of whom we read in Scripture. Doeg sold his business and paper to one, Samuel Hayward, who 246 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. carried on the paper on Conservative lines for a year or two, and then sold it to his political opponents. Mr. T. S. Gowland did not take to printing until some years after he took over the Library. AN OLD-STYLE DINNER, 1827. In Lord Broughton's Recollection s( a \ under the date of July 7, 1827, there occurs the following entry : "Dined at Devonshire House; 38 at table, and a scene of magnificence which I have never before seen. More than 20 servants, of whom about 12 in full dress with ruffles, white gloves and swords so that the guests looked very shabby in comparison with the attendants. The Duke of Sussex was there ... In the evening we had no amusement except from a talking bird just arrived from Malabar." It was the 6th Duke of Devonshire who gave this dinner. I never before met with a notice of swords being worn in the full dress of livery servants. This Duke kept up the old style, I fancy, to the end of his life. At any rate, I remember seeing him drive into Buxton from Chatsworth one day, in the autumn of ] 856, in a carriage and 4 with postillions although Chatsworth is only a few miles from Buxton. A DRIVE IN DERBYSHIRE. The following incident must have occurred in the year 1829 : " Some 40 years ago an old lady and a young nephew arrived at an Inn in Derbyshire one evening in the course of a tour through the picturesque county. Anxious to make an early start the next morning, they endeavoured to bespeak the only pair of post horses possessed by the Innkeeper ; but their efforts were in vain. The said horses had already been ordered for Lord C and his bride, making their wedding trip and sleeping in the house that very night. Said the fussy old lady or the young nephew, ' Let us have them first ; we will start early : we have not far to go : the horses will be back in plenty of time for Lord C. who is sure to be down late for breakfast/ The Innkeeper was, however, inexorable : ' he dared not play his Lordship a trick.' But the old lady's prophecy was correct. Lord C. was very late for breakfast : and she might well have had the first turn with the horses, and his- Lordship would still have had his horses ready when he himself was ready. Lord C. is now Duke of D , but his bride's kindness and goodwill to all who came in contact with her are things which remain engraven on the memories of only a few. Whether his Grace is still late for breakfast we know not.' Sussex Tim*-*, September 1, 1879. (a) Recollections of a Long Lift', vol. iii, p. 207. CHAP. XIX.] Holker Hall. 247 A VISIT TO HOLKER HALL. On September 27, 1888, my wife and I were taking a trip on Lake Windermere in company with Mr. J. T. Hibbert, M.P., and amongst our fellow passengers was Lady Edward Cavendish with some relatives. She asked us whether we were staying in the neighbourhood, and if so whether we could go over and lunch at Holker Hall and see her father, who would be glad to hear tidings of things and people at East-Bourne. We accepted the invitation, and the next day found ourselves at the Hall, driving thither across country from Hampsfield and Cartwell. Arrived there we were ushered into a drawing room which at the moment was empty, and so we amused ourselves by examining the pictures. After a short time a cleric, evidently a Bishop, came into the room, stared at us, walked to the far end of the room, and resumed his writing. We resumed our examination of the pictures. Suddenly we came to one to which my wife called my attention saying " Look here, this is a picture of Tresco Abbey in the Scilly Islands."( a ) No sooner had she uttered the words, than a hard voice from the far corner of the room shouted out, " No it t'aynt." The speaker was the Bishop of London (Temple). Soon after, Lady Louisa Egerton and her husband, Admiral Egerton, M.P., her sister-in-law, Lady Edward Cavendish with Mr. Victor Cavendish (the present Duke) entered the room and we were formally introduced to the famous Bishop, and made an acquaintance with him which he revived on his coming to Lambeth. The peculiar timbre of his voice remained till the end, and I was fortunate enough to hear him make his famous last speech in the House of Lords on December 4, 1902, on the Education Bill of that year. But this is a long digression from Holker Hall. I need hardly say that the old Duke's conversation included a good deal of historic matter connected with East-Bourne, a remark which also applies to the conversation of the 2 ladies, but the details of which I do not give. (a) The property of Mr. Smith-Dorrien, a cousin of my wife's. 248 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. The Dukes of Devonshire had a statutory right, I believe to compel the stoppage of any train at the Cork and Cart well station which is on their property, so on. the afternoon of the day we were at Holker, a train which was not timed to stop was ordered to stop to pick us up, the Duke sending us there in one of his carriages. I suppose this right attaches to the new owner of Holker, Lord R. Cavendish, M.P. FIRE ENGINES. In 1846 when a new pond was constructed at The Gore and it was desired to fill it, it was settled that the necessary water should, in the first instance, be obtained from the Motcombe Pond, and that the Parish Fire-engine with its hose should be borrowed for the purpose. I need hardly say that in this business I took the keenest interest, for I suppose there is nothing that small boys enter into with greater zest than playing with water and getting wet and dirty. I have a vivid recollection of this old Parish engine of ancient date, and an engine still alive at Rye is very like the old East- Bourne engine which is recorded in the Parish books as bought at the comparatively modern date of 1824. This, I suppose, is the engine as to which, an entry appears in the Vestry Minute Book under date of November 15, 1838, to the effect that Mrs. Gilbert offered to take it off the Parish and keep it in repair ready for use. I do not know what became of it but think that it was probably made away with in 1853. Why I suggest 1853 will appear directly. I believe that in the " Fifties " this old engine and a more modern one kept at Compton Place constituted the sole protection against fire which existed in the Parish. In January 1853 Major Willard's old house The Grays, in which he had died only a few months before, was almost entirely burnt to the ground, and this event suggested that the time had come for the Parish to be provided with a good modern fire-engine. I had been much interested in the fire-engines exhibited in the Great Exhibition of 1851 and I forthwith wrote CHAP. XIX.] Fire Engines. 249 from London to somebody in East-Bourne (I forget now who) to suggest that the Parish should buy an engine of the type of those exhibited by the old-established London firm of " Shand & Mason, late Tilley." Soon after this, such an engine was bought but I do not remember what London firm provided it. Mr. Tilley had retired from business, and many years afterwards when I was living for a short time at Sydenham I made his acquaintance. He was a most agreeable old gentleman. I need not go farther into the modern history of fire-engines in East- Bourne except to say that in that matter, as in most others, the Town has kept pace with the times, and about 1880 acquired 2 steam fire-engines, placed under the control of the Local Board. The engines had painted on them by way of dedication the names " Morrison " and " Sutton " a piece of toadyism quite unprecedented, I think, in the history of fire-engines. East-Bourne has had a happy immunity from fires. The most serious during my time was that at Peerless's timberyard on November 17, 1876, when property of the estimated value of 4000 or more was destroyed, and much injury done to the backs of some of the houses in Terminus Road and to Diplock's Brewery. The London and Provincial Bank was at one time so much in danger that it was deemed desirable to remove all the bullion and books to a place of safety. LORD RANDOLPH CHURCHILL. So far as I know, " Randy " (to use the coloquial name employed to designate him in the " Eighties ") never came to East-Bourne ; at any rate, for any public purpose, but it was not for want of asking. After the lamentable results of the General Election of 1880, when one of the greatest of English statesmen - - Lord Beaconsfield was replaced by a man who left no mark for good on the Statute Book of his country Mr. Gladstone the fortunes of the Conservative Party sank to a very low ebb, painfully accentuated by the death of Lord Beaconsfield in 1881. To the regeneration of the 250 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. Party no single man contributed in the way that Lord Randolph Churchill did, and his decadence and extinction was a national loss. His son, Mr. Winston Churchill, seems in a certain degree to be treading in his father's footsteps, and bids fair to reach, at no distant date, a similar position of decadence and extinction. Those who remember 1880 and the years which immediately followed, will not have forgotten the fact that both in the House of Commons, and in the country at large, Lord Randolph by his speeches helped most materially to revive and regenerate his Party. As a platform speaker, his success was immense, and he was everywhere in demand. Up to the time in question, no "Front Bench" speaker on either side of Politics had ever appeared on an East-Bourne platform, and I was deputed by the Conservative Association or by the Primrose League (I forget which) to obtain an interview with Lord Randolph, and try and get him to promise a speech at East-Bourne. Accordingly, I laid wait for him one day in the Members* Lobby in the House of Commons (from which, owing to the spread of " Liberal " principles, strangers are now excluded), and Sir E. Ashmead Bartlett introduced me to him. I need not say that the conversation was a highly interesting one, but so far as my mission was concerned, it was unfortunately a failure. He could hold out no hopes of coming to East-Bourne in the near future, because, he said, he was overwhelmed with invitations, and felt it his duty to reserve his time and strength for the large towns which comprised considerable working class populations. This view was obviously not unreasonable, and I could not press the claims of East-Bourne as responding to the conditions laid down by the noble Lord for his own guidance. My failure was doubly disappointing, because the future of politics in East Sussex was not veiy well assured from the Conservative standpoint, and we stood at that time in need of such a fillip as a visit from Lord Randolph would have given us. CHAP. XIX.] Miscellaneous. 251 THE LANYON FAMILY. East-Bourne cannot claim to have been the birth- place of any men distinguished in the front rank of English history. It is therefore necessary to make the most of any of its children who have done anything. I have already mentioned J. H. Mortimer, the painter, and, connected with him at a later date, the name of Lanyon, will be found in the Parish and other books, and onwards from the middle of the 18th Century. John J. Lanyon who in 1869 lived at 22 Sea-houses (afterwards the Marine Parade), and subsequently at 3' The Terrace, and died in 1835, had sons one of them,. Charles, left East-Bourne to make his way in the world, and was taken on as a pupil in the office of an Architect and Engineer at Belfast. Being a young man clever and enterprising, he soon got on, and marrying his employer's daughter, acquired a high business standing at Belfast. Eventually he became M.P. for the town in 1866, taking the place of Sir Hugh Cairns, then made a Lord Justice, and who afterwards became Earl Cairns and Lord Chancellor of England. Lanyon lost his seat in 1868 and did not seek to re-enter Parliament. I knew him very well, and to the end of his life he kept up his acquaintance with my family. The last time I saw him at East-Bourne, was on an occasion when be brought to The Gore his son, Colonel Sir William Owen Lanyon, K.C.M.G., who made a name for himself some 30 years ago in South Africa. Sir Charles Lanyon's greatest work as an Architect was, I suppose, Queen's College, Belfast. The houses now numbered 23, 25, 27 and 29 in Ocklynge Road, were built from his designs for the coachmen and gardeners employed at The Gore. Sir Charles's business passed at his death to his son John, whom I visited at Belfast in September 1893, when staying with Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Jaffe, late of East-Bourne, who then lived near Belfast. "BREAD THE STAFF OF LIFE" (SOMETIMES). Very little of the bread supplied to us now-a-days deserves this title, but the bread now to be mentioned 252 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. certainly did so. In the summer of 187 a cousin of mine came to East-Bourne, and was anxious to see an old friend of his from an inland county, who had settled down in a house a few miles from East-Bourne, so I drove him over. My cousin's friend was a bachelor, and had as his housekeeper an old aunt, a lady of the old school. When we sat down to luncheon, this lady apologised for the bread being a little stale, and said that they only baked once a week, and that " to-morrow " was baking day. If she had not invited my attention to the fact that the bread was 6 days old, I should never have found it out, so fresh and sweet and nourishing it .seemed to be. What was the secret of this ? It was, that the bread was made of " Seconds " flour with brewer's yeast and was baked in a brick oven. I have no doubt that there were two other contributory factors : that the flour was fresh English and not stale American ; .and had been ground between mill stones and not between metal rollers. It was once confessed to me by an experienced miller in a large way of business, that metal rollers squeeze most of the goodness out of the corn. Whenever I have the chance, I always buy a loaf made with stone-ground flour. There is a particular shop at Oxford where splendid bread of the sort is sold. WEDDINGS, 18461902. Few social functions have undergone more change in their attributes and surroundings during the time embraced in this volume than weddings. Formerly, as the Law required the ceremony to be completed by noon, it was inevitable that the company should not be sent away without a substantial and generally very sumptuous and ornate luncheon, officially designated a " Breakfast." Presents were only expected from the relations or very .special friends of the happy (or unhappy) pair, and the guests only were people coming within the category just mentioned. There was none of the " playing to the gallery," advertising, newspaper puffing, and political electioneering which is now so common in connection CHAP. XIX.] Weddings, 18461902. 253> with weddings. The first wedding which I remember and I well remember it was that of my aunt, Miss Emma Brodie, who on July 14, 1846, was married at St. Mary's, Bryanston Square, to Mr. James Grace, a brother of the Rev. H. Grace, then Vicar of Jevington. The first East-Bourne wedding I attended was that of Miss Mary Boileau, sister of Mrs. R. G. Graham, to Captain G. E. Clarke, of the Sussex Artillery Militia, on July 17, 1856. Next to that came the wedding of Fanny, second daughter of the Rev. T. Pitman, to Mr. C. B. Locock, eldest son of Sir Charles Locock, the celebrated London doctor, OIL December 27, 1859. The wedding of a cousin on June 10, 1869, and that of Miss Somerset on April 17, 1879, both celebrated at East-Bourne, were, I think, the two last in East-Bourne at which I was ever asked to sit down to the formal " Breakfast " described above. The guests- numbered 50 in the former case. The law was altered by an Act of Parliament passed in 1886, and it soon became generally utilised, especially by economical parents of brides, who made it the excuse for a more or less cheap afternoon show of " light refreshments." Why I think Miss Somerset's wedding repast must have- been a sit-down one is because we lent them some 4 or 5 dozen plates and dishes, as the hired house in the Upperton Road in which they were staying was deficient in such things. The bride's father was General Somerset, C.B., a Crimean officer. We kept up our acquaintance with them for many years, and the last time I saw Miss Somerset was when she, a widow, was living at Troy House, Monmouth, which its owner, the Duke of Beaufort, has since sold. I was shown there on October 2, 1891, the cradle in which Henry V. (Henry of Monmouth) is reputed to have been an inmate ; but I believe that this honour is claimed for several antique cradles. Whilst on the subject of weddings, I should like to make a practical suggestion. Wedding programmes for use in Church ought to be printed in black ink, not silver ink. The last-named is often quite illegible if the Church is dark, as too many Churches are now-a-days, owing to lack of suitable windows, with suitable glass. 254 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. SYLLABUB PARTIES. My diaries during many years down to 1873, contain records of summer outdoor gatherings of our friends at " Syllabub Parties." I mention the matter because I have never been asked to such a party elsewhere than to my grandmother's house, The Gore : nor have I ever heard the word used out of East-Bourne. I suppose it is used, however, and the concoction itself is made by somebody sometimes because the redoubtable " Mrs. Beeton " gives a recipe for it. The word itself is given in the Imperial Dictionary as " Old and Provincial English and Scotch " and is denned there as " A dish made by mixing wine and cider with cream or milk, and thus forming a soft curd." Mrs. Beeton gives the ingredients thus : 1 pint of sherry or white wine, of a grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, 1-J pint of milk ; and if cider is used, some brandy must always be added. I am unable to say from memory how far this recipe accords with that used at The Gore in the years that are past, but Mrs. B. leaves out the climax of the business as I always saw it practised. When the company were assembled on the lawn, the tables being set out with glasses and cakes, such as are now seen at garden parties, and the mixture was ready all but the finishing touch ; the finishing touch was given by a live cow being driven on to the lawn and milked into the china bowl which contained the preliminary mixture of ingredients. I am quite certain that my grandmother would not have tolerated the idea of a Syllabub party without a cow being invited as one of the guests. The stuff, which was quite good to drink, was served in large wine-glasses or small tumblers, filled by means of a punch ladle, which in the particular instance in question, had at its bottom a 2-guinea piece of temp. George II. A GARDEN PARTY AT COMPTON PLACE. On July 28, 1900, the Duchess of Devonshire gave a garden party at Compton Place. A very ill-mannered attack was made on Her Grace in a local paper by a CHAP. XIX.] A " Compton Place " Garden Party. 255 certain Socialist-Radical which called forth the following anonymous letter of comment, published in the East- bourne Chronicle : "Your correspondent, Mr. E. H. R. Brown, should be a very amusing man quite a Japanese,in fact. By the way, who is he that he should be "receiving 1 letters by almost every post, especially from the rural districts " ? He seems to insinuate that there is great danger that Her Grace of Devonshire will captivate shaky Radicals. Seeing how captivating she is, would there be auy wonder if shaky Radicals should fall under her spell ? Perhaps I can tell Mr. Brown some news. Yet he is apparently so well posted up in most political matters that nothing should be news to him. However, be that as it may, a considerable number of his clients (as I suppose I ought to call them) asked to be asked to the Compton Place party ! This, of course, is strictly in accordance with precedent. There is no more thorough-going toady than your advanced Democrat. Directly a live lord appears on the horizon the politician who swears that " all men nre equal " makes for him in order to " kow-tow " to him, and a live " dook " is an absolutely irresistible " draw." Mr. Brown seems to have been much perturbed by this garden party, and his inferences are not altogether consistent ; indeed, it is not easy to see why he troubled himself about the matter. Perhaps he will be glad to have explanations on some points. Though I went to the party I had no invitation. There came to my house a card announcing that on July 28 the Duchess of Devonshire would be " At Home." It sounded like a bald suggestion of an intended fact, and it was this that induced me to go, having pleasant remem- brances of a previous " At Home " to which I went, though the ex-Mayoress did not ask me. There was nothing on the card in the least degree suggesting that the gathering had any political complexion, and I went on that account, having ceased to be a politician, if I ever was one. Even the not unfamiliar letters, ll.S.V.P. ("Refuwz s'il vous plait "Say 'No' if you like") were not there, and their omission coupled with the fact, that there were words inviting an answer to the Compton Place Estate Office entirely divested the gathering of all political oharncter and brought it rather within the nature of an advertisement of a proposed Bale of land or growing crops or shorthorns certainly not a political entertainment. Perhaps, as Mr. Brown has directly raised some political points, I may be allowed to mention what seem to me some really important issues awaiting solution at this moment. I was told that a certain Mr. Lindsay Hogg was present at the party, accompanied by a charming lady who looked an ideal M.P. 's wife, but nobody offered to introduce me to them. Surely this would have been done if they had been there for any political purpose. As regards this Mr. Hogg, if he were there and is a candidate for Parliamentary honours (save the mark!), it remains to be seen whether his principles are sound. I myself belong to the Party of Progress (Mr. Brown's party, if I mistake not), and I will not vote for any man who will not give plenty of pledges and promises to support at least three-fourths of my favourite hobbies. First and foremost I will not vote for anybody who will not reduce the price of coals to 15s. a ton. Why should I ? Coal is the question of the hour at this moment with the thermometer at 90 degrees in the shade. Hardly less important than this I put the absurd Customs Duty now enforced by a wicked Tory Government on foreign Eau de Cologne. This is really an outrageous impost. I shall require my M.P. to promise a grant from the Treasury for an electric tramway to Beachy Head. He must be willing to abolish vaccination (including, of course, such incidentals as small-pox and typhoid). He must promise to plunder the Church and share its revenues between the Dissenters and the Home for Lost and Starving Cats. To this I attach great importance, as the only remedy for countless evils now afflicting the English body politic. The relief of destitute starving cats by the Poor Law Guardians is one of my particular hobbies, far more important than the relief of bipeds men and women. Another very important pledge which I shall require from my 256 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX, candidate is that he will bring in a Bill to enact that no trains on the Brighton. Railway shall arrive more than a quarter-of-an-hour late, except on days of thunderstorms. A certificate by a Government Inspector of Thunderstorm* will be a defence against proceedings under the Act. Your readers will see, and I hope Mr. Brown will see, that though I went to the Compton Place Garden Party I am not going to be caught by "any thinly-disguised bait," and that if he has ready to hand a suitable C. B. puppet of the right sort (that is, of my sort), I will vote for him and will have nothing to do with Mr. Lindsay Hogg or any other so-called Imperialist patriots whose sole idea seems to be to magnify Queen Victoria, Lord Salisbury (a most incapable Foreign Minister) and gloat over the Battles of Waterloo and Trafalgar (two most regretable incidents in English history). Far better sell Gibraltar and make Mr. Labouchere Foreign Secretary and Dr. Clark, M.P., Colonial Secretary and Gustos Rotulorum. I hope Mr. Brown will agree with me on these points, and not think that though I went to the- Compton Place party I have swallowed auy "thinly-disguised bait." I enclose my name, but please, Mr. Editor, not for publication, as I desire to- remain anonymous, not being up in the art of " writing to the papers." " Yours ever, G. F. C. P.S. I am not sure that this is the proper ending. If wrong, pardon my inexperience. Beachy Head (in a sea fog), July 30, 1900. How FICTION MAY BECOME "HISTORY." Some 30 years ago there appeared in a local paper a statement to the effect that the Rev. G. M. Cooper, Vicar of Wilmington, had been Tutor to the 7th Duke of Devonshire, and that the Duke, then Mr. Cavendish, had once met with a serious accident out hunting near Beachy Head. Anxious to ascertain the facts I applied to his sister for information and obtained the following answer : " My Brother most certainly never had any accident at Birling Gap. He never wan with Mr. Cooper, but my cousin Col. Frederick Cavendish was hi pupil not at Wilmington but here at The Grove about 50 years ago. I never heard of his or Lord Chichester having any accident. I have heard Lord Chichester say that, when he was a young man, he was at East-Bourne with a tutor (not Mr. Cooper), Yours very sincerely, FANNY HOWABD." It is the 3rd Earl of Chichester who is alluded to above. After him came the 4th and 5th Earls both of whom I knew from working with them one on the County Council and the other on the Diocesan Confer- ence Committee. PIGS AS ENGINEERS. Looking over the MS. journals of my uncle, Mr. Walter Brodie, some time ago I came upon the following " traveller's tale " : Plate XLVIII. To face p. 256. Fig. 86. * y /<' LOUISE, DUCHESS OF DEVONSHIRE. CHAP. XIX.] Pigs as Engineers. 257 " 1843, March 8. On our way we saw a very extraordinary sight, pigs manoeuvring how to get their young ones over the river. This was done hy the older ones making a line, or bridge, by holding on to each other by their tails, thus making a bridge for the little ones to cross on their backs." The journals in question are full of extraordinary adventures, all over the world, between 1827 and 1851. Perhaps I shall edit them for publication one of these days. BANKS AT EAST-BOURNE. In my earliest days, with the population of East-Bourne so small as it was, there was naturally no such thing as a Bank, and the first Bank was started in this way. The Lewes firm of Molineux, Whitfeld & Co. made an arrangement with a local tradesman (Mr. R. B. Stone) to act as their agent. After a time this was found to give insufficient facilities, and they empowered a Mr. William Rason to open a miniature Bank as a Branch of their Lewes establishment by attending 2 days a week for the limited time of 3 hours a day, at No. 1, Cornfield Terrace. The convenience of this soon became apparent and appreciated, so it was only natural that in process of time the 2 days should become 5, and the 5 become 6, with the daily hours much extended. As the town grew and the business grew, so the one room at Cornfield Terrace became insufficient, and a whole house was taken in the Terminus Road. Still developements went on ; changes of house took place, and eventually in 1896 the present palatial building, which bears the name of Barclay & Co., was erected. I for one was sorry to see disappear the names of Molineux and Whitfeld, which had been associated with banking business in Sussex in connection with the name " Lewes Old Bank " more or less since 1789. The first rival Bank was the " English Joint Stock Bank," of London, which opened a branch and vanished. One day in April, 1872, when seated in my chambers at the Temple, my clerk announced that a solicitor, Mr. C. E. Lewis, wished to see me. Knowing Mr. Lewis, and he knowing me, of course my mind quickly scented a brief. When Mr. Lewis was ushered s 258 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. in, it, was true that he wanted my opinion, but he had not come to pay for it, and it was not on a point of law. He wanted to know whether I thought there was an opening for another Bank in East-Bourne. This was rather a difficult question to answer, and I felt the responsibility of answering it. All that I did, therefore, was to give Mr. Lewis some information as to the population of the place, and general probabilities. I suppose he relied upon my statements, for after no long interval I heard that the London and Provincial Bank, of which Mr. Lewis was a Director, had taken a house in the Terminus Road, and had opened it as a Branch of their London Bank. That is about all I know regarding Banks and Banking at East-Bourne, except that somewhere about the same time a man named Flint started a Banking business of sorts in the Terminus Road, and called himself " The East- Bourne Bank." But I need not specify further the place to which Mr. Flint and his Bank soon went. SUSSEX COACHES IN 1804. The following advertisement appeared in The Times of November 29, 1804 :- Hastings, Rye, and Tunbridge expeditious elegant new Coach, every morning at half-past five. Lewes, Uckfield, Maresfield, and East Grinstead Coaches, every morning at 7. Bognor, and the Rocks, a Bathing Place on the Sussex Coast, much admired for its fine Sand, a new Coach, every morning at half-past 6. Chichester, Midhurst, and Haslemere new Telegraph Coaches, every morning at half-past 6. Brighton new Coaches of all descriptions, every morning at 7, 8, and 9, and every night at 10. The Public are particularly requested to notice that the above Coaches are quite new, and travel very fast, going by all the different routes to Brighton. Worthing, a Bathing Place on the coast of Sussex, much admired, and the late residence of part of the Itoyal Family, new and elegant Coaches, every morning at 7. Eastbourn, light elegant Summer Coach, every morning at 6. All the coaches from London to all England seem to have started from the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, if one interprets literally the long advertisement from which the above entries are extracted. CHAP. XIX.] Early in the 19th Century. 259 EAST-BOURNE IN 1809. " Eastbourne, September 7th [1809]. "This little bathing-place is thronged with families of the first distinction ; not a house, or even a lodging, can be obtained on any terms. " The theatre is well attended ; the performance on Saturday was patronized by Lord Bradford and the officers of his regiment (the Shropshire Militia) and produced a bumper. "The ball at the Lamb Inn on Monday boasted an overflow of fashionable company. The parade is delightfully situated close to the sea; and all the officers of the 2nd Surrey and Shropshire Regiments, with that politeness which distinguishes these gentlemen, send their bands every evening for the amusement of the company. "Since the "Iris" frigate has been on this station the French privateers have not dared to renew their visits to this part of the coast." (Globe, September 9, 1809.) The Iris was an ex-French corvette of 24 guns, captured off the Texel on January 2, 1809, by H.M.S. Aimable, so her captors dfd not lose much time in utilising her. No doubt the Aimable had also been originally French. (See James, Naval History, vol. v., p. 147.) I have been unable to recover any account of ^the visits of French privateers to the Sussex coast. EAST-BOURNE IN 1812. A certain Mr. Mayow Adams, who then resided at iSydenham, told Sir G. Grove in 1890 that " In 1812 or 1813 he was at East-Bourne and, being out with his nurse, was terribly frightened by a loud explosion ; it was the guns in the fort firing at a French ship which had come too close to the shore. He remembers the balls ricochetting along the top of the waves ; also his fear for 2 men who were sitting down under the fort." (Grove's Life of Sir G. Grove, p. 360.) EAST-BOURNE BATHING IN 1819. The following extract from the 1819 edition of 'East-Bourne and its Environs contains a fair mixture of fact and romance, and indicates that Daily Mail methods were not altogether novel even a century ago : '' East-bourne has one great advantage over other watering-places on this coast, in the circumstance of all the fleets navigating the Channel, usually coming close in shore, though when opposite to Brighton they are obliged to keep a very great offing, and are seldom perceptible. The bathing here may be equalled, but cannot be surpassed for the purity and cleanliness of the water, as there is not a drain of any description falls into it, for many miles on either side (a great contrast to many fashionable watering-places on this coast), and it seldom happens that any person is deprived of one day's bathing in the season. The machines are very excellent, and the guides unremitting in their attentions. Here also are very commodious warm baths, lately built at a considerable expense by Mrs. Webb, wherein every accommodation has been strictly studied. The sands here are very fine and dry, and they form a 260 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. pleasant promenade both for the pedestrian and equestrian ; and here is an abundance of sociable*, and pony and donkey chaises for the accommodation of invalids. Parties enjoying aquatic excursions may be much gratified with good boats, conveniently fitted up, and conducted by men who have a thorough knowledge of the tides, and are well versed in nautical skill ; they are likewise much respected for their civility." (p. 14.) SEA-BATHING. Sea-bathing at East-Bourne is supposed to date from about the year 1802 or 1803. The story goes that there lived at the Old Town a doctor named Gibbs of high reputation in those days, and with a large practice, the latter statement depending on the fact that there was no other medical practitioner nearer than Lewes or Hastings. He quitted his house at the Old Town for one which he built in South Street ; after that, building others at the seaside on the Marine Parade. He is said to have been the first to appreciate the value of sea-bathing, and to have designed the first bathing-machine, for the use of his son. When this was wheeled down from the Old Town, it and he were followed by a crowd of people, who said that the doctor had built a box in which to drown his son. Sure and certain it is, that having regard to the inartistic architecture of the existing bathing- machines, one can well believe that the original design was more than 100 years old ; indeed, that the original design was borrowed from Noah's Ark. As a boy, I did not like sea-bathing, and it was not until I was 16 that I ever took to it. But since 1857, I think, I have never missed a single year at East-Bourne, always trying to keep up an average of 1 bathe a week as far as possible. Of course, sea-bathing does not agree with everybody, but it always suited me ; and at the end of seasons in which I have been able to obtain as many as 20 bathes, I have always felt freshened up in a remarkable degree. Strips of carpet used to be provided in the East-Bourne machines for bathers to stand upon, but they have long since disappeared. A FANCY-DRESS BALL. The only one I remember in East-Bourne, or at any rate ever went to, was given by Mrs. J. H. C. Coles, the Plate XLIX. To face p. 260. Figs. 8788. Lavis, Kast-Bourne. Copyright. BALLOON ASCENT AT THE SCHOOLS BAZAAR, June, 1895. THE AUTHOR'S STUDY AT "NORTHFIELD GRANGE,' 1903. CHAP. XIX.] A Fancy Dress Ball 261 wife of the Town Clerk, on January 31, 1883, at the Queen s Hotel. It was certainly a success from a picturesque point of view. I went simply as a barrister in wig and gown. At the request of our hostess the guests were afterwards photographed by Lavis in their several costumes ; and the collection, no doubt, made up a very interesting album, but I never saw it, so only jump at the conclusion. A CHINA (NOT CHINESE) STORY. In 1878 there sojourned in East-Bourne in a house of their own a certain Major and Mrs. > with a dear little daughter named Hazel. They all lunched with us on October 26. This fixes a date antecedent to my story, the exact date of which I am unable to furnish nearer than " the summer of 1879." The major belonged to the Rifle Brigade and, in process of time, was ordered to India and went, leaving behind him a furnished house in Wilmington Square which his agent had instructions to let. It was visited by a Jewish person who was a china fancier ; he noticed in the drawing-room a pair of vases which he saw to be valuable, and he went to the house agent and offered to purchase for 3000 the whole house and its contents as it stood, alleging that his invalid wife wanted to go into a house all ready for her without the trouble of furnishing one. The agent stated that he had no authority to sell, only to let. The Jew asked whether he could not obtain authority. The owner's brother living in England, being consulted, recommended a telegram being sent to the owner in India stating the offer. The telegram was sent, and the answer came back with inconsiderate haste authorising the acceptance of the offer. The Jewish person on his part lost no time in completing his bargain, and, having thus got possession of the vases, quietly packed them off to London and sold them for 10,000 ! It may well be supposed that the Major afterwards regretted his prompt acceptance. The substance of the story I can vouch for because after I had written a paragraph on the subject in 262 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. a local paper, the purchaser's solicitor called on me and tried to explain but did not deny the main facts. I rather think that he threatened me with an action for libel, but it never came off. THE STORY OF A CLOCK. The following incident was related to me some years ago by an old lady in Somersetshire who was some relation of the gentleman concerned. I believe that at the period in question, landings on the coast of Sussex by Royalists escaping from France were not uncommon,, and that fact justifies me in including the narrative in this volume. One stormy night in or about the year 1794, an old clergyman living in his parsonage house on the coast of Dorsetshire, was roused by a knock at his front door, and found outside in great distress a French lady, who, to- save her life, had come across to England in a fishing boat. She asked for hospitality, and obtained it at once. Host and hostess on the one hand, and stranger on the other were so mutually pleased with one another, that the stranger's sojourn was extended to 6 months. At the end of that time she ascertained that it was safe for her to return to France and did so, profoundly thanking the old parson and his wife for their kindness, and expressing deep regret that she was destitute of money to repay them. Some years later, the clergyman received notice from the Custom House at Dover, that a box had arrived at the Custom House which would be sent on to him on his remitting the sum of 6. He refused to do this, saying that he expected nothing from France, and least of all was inclined to speculate to the amount of 6. After another interval of several years, the old clergyman died, and the Dover correspondence came into the hands of his son, who, unlike his father, was of a speculative turn of rnind. So he put himself in communication with Dover, heard that the box was still there, paid the 6, and received the box. On opening it he found inside a beautiful " Louis Quatorze " clock CHAP. XIX.] The Story of a Clock. 263 of great value. That clock may now be seen at Castle Gary in Somersetshire, and may be considered as worth 100 at the least. I mention that sum because I have seen the clock, and been able to compare it with a clock presented a great many years ago to a local doctor by the old Duke of Devonshire and his brothers and sister for special services rendered to their mother. This last clock was in my keeping for some years at Northfield Grange, and when it was noticed on an occasion by a local jeweller, he offered me 100 for it. Of course, I could not sell it because it did not belong to me, but the price put upon it was an index to the value of the clock at Castle Gary, whose romantic history I have detailed. Perhaps I may here mention a relic of the French Revolution which has been in my possession for 60 years and more. An old nurse who ended her days in 1856 in the Brodie family at The Gore, was in her early years a servant in the employ of a French General Trapaud, an emigre of the Terror period. Amongst his property brought from France was an oak box. That box, which cannot now be less than 116 years old, I have fitted up as a muniment chest, and it is now doing useful service ; and it promises to be as sound and seaworthy a century hence as it was a century ago. The name ' Trapaud,* written in ink, is still decipherable on the outside. LINKS WITH THE PAST. The following letter, dated from Normanhurst, Compton Street, East-Bourne, appeared in The Times of July 15, 1910 : " Sir, A year or two ago there was some correspondence in your journal on the subject of "Links with the Past." You may possibly think it worth while to insert my case. My father was born in 1750, and I was born in 1819 (when he was 69). I attained my 9lst birthday on the 3rd of last month (June). That is to say, our joint lives have extended 160 years. My relations think this is unique, and I have been persuaded to let you know, as I am told that it, at any rate, is a record which heats anything that has yet been made public. I am, yours faithfully, LETITIA JANE FORDE." This letter evoked others in competition, but none came near it. Some of them might be paraphrased thus : " My grandfather's great aunt's grandmother was a 264 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. Lady-in- Waiting in her younger days to Edward the Third's wife, Queen Philippa." SUNDAY LEAGUE EXCURSIONS TO EASTBOURNE. The following newspaper cutting has lost none of its applicability by the efflux of time. At a much later date I saw a notice by the Chief Constable of Salisbury, warning householders to watch their doors and property on a certain Sunday, because the National Sunday League intended to patronise the city. " Judging by the Police Reports, we trust that a long time will elapse ere the town of East-Bourne is flooded again by excursionists, assembled by the National Sunday League, as on September 9. Whenever that mischievous Society pours its hundreds into a town, noise, drunkenness, and dissipation is the inevitable legacy which the natives have to endure. To everybody except to the beershop- keepers these Sunday Leaguers are an intolerable nuisance This will be found the testimony of the respectable inhabitants alike of Hastings, Seaford, Littlehampton, Dorking, and Portsmouth. These Leaguers did not come to East-Bourne on September 9 without leaving 2 of their number to be locked up and fined 7*. 6rf. with costs, for being drunk and disorderly on the Parade. We venture to tender an earnest remonstrance to the Railway Company never again to bring any more " National Sunday League" excursionists to East-Bourne. (Sussex Times, November 1, 1883). A LADIES' COMMITTEE. During my membership of the East Sussex County Council, it fell to my lot on many occasions to preside over a Committee of Ladies concerned in the manage- ment of the Technical School for Girls at Lewes. I shall not disclose or comment on my experiences there beyond remarking that I always found it very difficult to keep the ladies to the point immediately under discussion ; with one noble exception every lady nearly always wished to speak on two totally different subjects at the same time, the second subject being generally the one which had already been settled some minutes previously ! The difficulty of keeping lady speakers to a denned line was amusingly shown some years ago at East-Bourne. There existed then (and perhaps still) a Committee of Ladies formed for the definite purpose of looking after friendless girls and raising money for the purpose. At one of their meetings they passed a resolution to grant CHAP. XIX.] A Ladies' Committee. 265 10 for a friendless boy ! The fact that this was a flagrant breach of Trust Funds escaped notice at the time, but at the next meeting a lady, connected with an eminent London firm of solicitors, saw through the great irregularity, and very properly proposed and carried a resolution that the grant should be cancelled. A " LIBERAL " DINNER AT EAST-BOURNE. A "Liberal" Dinner held on February 4, 1881, seems to have been a remarkable success, unless the East-Bourne Gazette is to be deemed a biassed authority. The following laudatory notice in a Gazette leader : "Some gentlemen, for instance, could get nothing to eat, although there was an abundance of good things provided by the caterers ; many were obliged to remain satisfied with the homely fare of cheese and celery ; others had to rest supremely contented with a few tarts, and the majority had to do with a little soup, a iimited supply of the rotis, and 'just a taste' of plum pudding." A correspondent of the same paper evidently a wag in his way says : " Some complained of the waiting. I consider the waiting was perfection. I had 3 servings, and waited half-an-hour between each. I could not have waited much longer ; so I think there is not much to complain of there." I take it that " Liberal " Dinners in these days in East-Bourne are better done, but I cannot speak from experience as I seldom attend " Liberal " Dinners. THE WRECK OF THE "NYMPHA AMERICANA." It will be seen by an inspection of the engraving of this event which appears in Plate XXVII. , that a large amount of explanatory matter is attached. No very good purpose would be served by quoting the details. The reader will form his own judgement as to how far the artist, by name Barrodell Lambert, is to be relied upon. I merely refer to the matter again in this place in order to note that Major Molineux informs me that 2 engravings of this shipwreck were published, a large and a small one, but I only remember to have seen the small one. The reproduction given in this volume is from a copy kindly lent me for the purpose by Mr. F. H. Emary. 266 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX, EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS OF DR. BRODIE. I have been favoured by the loan of a number of old letters written by Dr. Brodie, 1803-1828, to his only sister Mrs. O'Connor. These letters are now in the possession of Mrs. O'Connor's grandson (and therefore my cousin), Mr. J. Sweetman, of Dublin. From these letters, I have made some extracts bearing on East-Bourne history. Sir Arthur Piggott, M.P. is thus alluded to by Dr. Brodie in a letter dated February 6, 1816. It should be explained that he had been employed to draw a Bill in Chancery in connection with some Brodie property : " Sr. A. Piggott would settle the Bill since which I have not heard a word of the proceedings. Sr. Arthur was idle at Eastbourn flirting wh Miss Nap instead of looking over papers (who by the by has since lost her father and that within a few days after he left Eastbourn) Sr. Arthur tells his friends in London that Eastbourn is retired and therefore a proper place for to look over papers At Eastbourn he tells us that he comes here for his health, to- retreat from business ; not to prose over papers." The Gilbert family are frequently mentioned in Dr. Brodie's letters. Thus under date of February 6, 1816, I find : " There is a sad to-do in the Church here, raising the dead that have been buried for two hundred years past. Gilbert's death, which took place on the 1st inst. here, has occasioned an uproar among his ancestors' bones, for the purpose of building him a vault to deposit his remains. At present, it is unknown what disposition of property he has made, as he desired that his will may not be opened till he was buried. Giddy is here, and appears in good spirits. It is the general opinion that he has locked up all his property to the children of Mrs. Giddy, with a handsome provision to Mrs. Gilbert for her life. However, a few days will put us in possession of the secret." In a subsequent letter, dated March 17, 1816, I find: " The death of Gilbert gave Mrs. Gilbert the use of her brother's property for her life, then to Mrs. Giddy Mr. Giddy, and afterwards to his children in fail of issue to the Haverfield family ; in fail of issue then, to the then Lord Northampton in tail. Mrs. Gilbert has, I am sorry to say, paid the like debt of her brother, she died on Saturday evening at 7 o'clock wh the disorder which is very prevalent here, the influenza. Mrs. Giddy is now in possession and, I am confident, will keep it. She has began her reign by a frugal act of burying her aunt without a leaden coffin. The aunt gave lead to her brother the niece thinks it superflous. Man wants but little h*re below, and thai little not long. I presume Mrs. Giddy reads the woril ' below,' to mean the grave, and therefore the less encumbrance the better, as time will be com- paratively short when slie will assume another substance. This lady was sent for, express to London, as her aunt was dying; but as frugality is always commendable she left London in her own carriage which brought her half way, while in the meantime she wrote to her dying aunt to send her carriage to CHAP. XIXJ Dr. Brodie s Letters. 26T meet her. What was the consequence ? She wrote to her aunt at the moment she left London, of course the letter could not arrive before the morrow, and then too late for the carriage to set off in time to meet her ; but as expedition was not so much the object as the expense of porting the boy arrived in good time although after he had got to Maresfield he was obliged to wait four hours to rest his horses so after thirty-six hours spent frugally on the road she arrived express from London just in time to see her aunt before she died. Elwes, thou art a prince in comparison to this hopeful set ! " Under date of August 31, 1824, Dr. Brodie writes to his sister as follows : " East-Bourne is as full as it can well hold, and very respectable ; we had more gentlemen's carriages at Church last Sunday than I have s^en for many years, and the Church so crowded that many were obliged to leave for want of seats. Mrs. Gilbert is disposed neither to let for a short time, or a long time, TTpperton. She has had many applications for it, and that being the case, she does not know what to ask for the letting, nor to whom to let it. In short, she- is as contrai y as she can be." Under date of February 25, 1824, Dr. Brodie writing to his sister, makes two allusions which have some modern interest. First of all he mentions the departure from East-Bourne of a certain Mrs. Cazalet, who had been the occupier of what is generally known as the Upperton Farm House. A daughter of this Mrs. Cazalet afterwards became the wife of the Rev. W. Upton Richards, well-known many years later as the first Incumbent of All Saints' Church, Margaret Street, London. The second allusion is to a recommendation made of a certain Captain Ranking for employment under Captain Franklin. The first named Captain was, I believe, a son of the principal East-Bourne doctor of the period, whilst Captain Franklin was the distinguished Arctic Navigator, who was then preparing for his celebrated expedition in search of the North Pole. I take it for granted that this chain of incidents connecting East-Bourne with the North Pole was due to the fact that Mr. Davies Gilbert was President of the Royal Society, and therefore in touch with all kinds of scientific efforts. The wreck of the Thames is thus alluded to by Dr, Brodie in a letter to his sister, dated February 5, 1822 : " This place since Sunday morning early has been in a state of great confusion and bustle occasioned by the wreck of an Eastindiaman of 1500 tons burden, near the Eleven-gun Battery. The report is that seven lives are lost. The vessel is stranded, but not destroyed. She may get off again, and be of further service." 268 Old Memories of East-Bourne. [CHAP. XIX. PENALTIES ATTACHING TO AUTHORSHIP. " H&tn aw Letters far gou." (Henry IF., pt. i.) One of the consequences of being an author is, as I know to my cost, that people, often strangers, write to you sending addenda and corrigenda, interlarded some- times with abuse. It has been my fate to receive many such letters. Not unfrequently however they furnish useful material for subsequent editions. From some of the letters which I have received during the last 30 or 40 years, I now give a few extracts which may be deemed of permanent value so far as East-Bourne histoiy is concerned. At a meeting of the East-Bourne Natural History Society on May 23, 1873, some discussion took place respecting certain excavations then recently made for the Devonshire Park Baths. I asked whether any confirmation had been obtained of the supposition that in Roman times, or later, there was a dock on the E. side of the Wish promontory. The Rev. E. S. Dewick replied that he doubted whether there ever had been such a thing as a dock there. This discussion drew forth from Mr. F. W. H. Cavendish a letter, dated May 28, 1873, from which the following extracts are taken : " With reference to that which you are reported to have said about the wooden piles of the old Harbour and to Mr. Bewick's reply, I have always understood, and in fact know from my long acquaintance with East-Bourne, that the Sea has very much encroached at the Wish ; and I believe the old Harbour story is quite true, for old piles are to be seen down on sands west of the gentlemen's bathing places ; at least, they were there not many years ago. I perfectly recollect them and make no doubt they are still visible at certain times, according as to whether there is much or little sand. I have known the Wish since 1827, and saw frequently the cottage on the Cliff about, where now are the gentlemen's machines, and have heard the story of the Harbour from my father, who was 83$ when he died on the 5th of last April, and who spent much of his early youth in Compton Place, as did my grandmother, Lady George Cavendish, after she inherited the property, October 18, 1763, when bhe was 3 years old, and who died there on April 7, 183o." From the Rev. H. GRIFFITH, who was at that time a curate at St. Saviour's, under date of July 25, 1884 : " I see from your Handbook for East-Bourne that this place was known by the name of East-Bourne as early as the 16th century, if not before. You do not say anything as to the origin or derivation of the prefix, Eaxt. But Mr. Isaac Taylor, in his book, Words and Places, asserts that East- Bourne is a (a) Lady George Cavendish was Countess of Burlington when she died. Plate L. To face p. 269. Figs. 89 9O. _iTk - - , ' ~~-JK ^f****~-^**tt ~ Harriet Ogle, del. BEACHY HEAD, SHOWING 4 "CHARLESES," circa. 1825. Harriet Ole, del. COLLIERS UNLOADING AT EAST-BOURNE. Sept. 25, 1845. CHAP. XIX.] Various Extracts from Letters. 269 corruption of Ease- Bourne (i.e. , water-brook) a name which a village near Midhurst has retained to this day (cf. South-ease). There is much to be said in favour of this derivation. It is not easy, on the other hand, to find a satisfactory reason for the place being called *<-Bourne ; and modern nomenclators, by giving the name of &>M0siuss jalfci&. a nation, but sin is a rtproar^ to awg gtoglt."(Prov. xiv., 34). rbrr &0olv roniatning surfr bile mattrr 20 fltirlg fcouufr?" (Rom.eo and Juliet.} [297] ** This Index does not include the names of the Parliamentary Members and Candidates mentioned in Chapter XVIII. Entries in small capitals indicate Titles of Chapters. Accidents on Railways, 137 Adams, Professor J. C., 60 Additional Curates' Society, 162 Albany, Duchess of, 57 Albion Hotel, 42, 46 Alder, Rev. H. R., 187 Aldermen: G. Boulton, 104, 203, 221 ; H. W. Keay, 79, 104; W. E. Morrison, 201, 210 ; J. A. Skinner, 95, 204 ; N. Strange, 96 All Saints' Church, 182 All Saints' Convalescent Hospital, 180 Allied Sovereigns, Visit of , in 1814, 83 Amalgamation of Southern Railways, 132 " Amberstone," near Hailsham, 83 Anchor Hotel, 42 Anderida, 9 Anecdotesof Railway Travelling, 140 Anecdotes, Various, 6, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 38, 44, 45, 47, 54, 58, 59, 60, 64, 65, 67, 68, 73, 76, 77, 103, 109, 114, 117, 118, 141, 150, 167. 169, 171, 176, 179, 183, 195, 246, 247, 252 Annaly, Lord, 7 Anson, Sir J. W. H., Bt., 7 Anthony's Hill, 81 Artillery, Coast Brigade, 36 Artillery Militia, Sussex, 72, 110 Artillery Volunteers, Sussex, 74 Archdall, Capt. M. E., M.P., 39 Archery, 148 Armstrong, Sir W. G., 80 Armstrong Guns, Trial of, 80 Arts and Industries' Society, 120 Ashburnham, 4th Earl of, 46 Asquith, Mr. H. H., M.P., 226, 235 Astronomical Matters, 113, 114 Astronomical Visitors, 60 Authors connected with East- Bourne, 112 Authorship, Penalties attached to, 268 Bacon, Capt., 148 Baden, Grand Duke and Duchess of, 54 Bailey, Mr. J. H., 113 Baillie, Mr. H., 91 Baker. E., 105 Ball, Fancy Dress, 260 Ball-room House, 42, 48 Banister, Mr. F. J., 131 Banks at East- Bourne, 249 Banning, Rev. C. H., 176 Bartlett, Sir E. A., M.P., 96, 250 Bataillard, Maditme, 16 Bathing at East- bourne, 659 Bathing, 260 Baths, Mrs. Webb's, 46 Bathurst, Rev. W. A., 159, 175 Battle, Proposed Rail way from, 128 Baugh, Lieut.. R.N., 175 Bazaars, Charilable, 54, 56, 175, 193, 194 Beachy Head. 23; Accidents at, 5, 22 Beaconsfield, Earl of, 249 Beckenham, Lewes and Brighton Railway, 139 Beckwith, Mr. E. L., 104 Bedford Well, 244 Bell, Dr. W., 92 Bennett, Mr. T., 74 Berry, Mr. J., 213 Birds of Sussex, Collection of, 116 Bishops at the Parish Church. 167 Bishop of Colorado, 64.67, 167 Bishop of Chichester (Durnford), 64, 184, 186 Bishop of New Hampuhire, 64 Bishop of London (Temple), 247 Bishop of Oxford (Mackarness), 64 Bishop of Oxford (Wilberforce), 176 Blanket Loan Society, 87 Blomfield, Sir A., 174 Boating, 151 Bonaparte, Prince Lucien, 53 Booth, "General," 210 298 INDEX. Booth, Miss Eva, 210 Borthwick, Sir A. and Lady, 61 Boulder Boats, 84 Boulton, Alderman G., 104, 203, 221 Bourne Cottage, 29 Bourne Stream, 25, 27 Bourdillon, Rev. F., 176 Bourdillon, Mr. F. W., 55 Bourke, Hon. and Rev. G. W., 65 Bown, Mr. J. A., 99, 189 Boys, E., 190 Brady, Mr. F., 128 Brand, Capt. the Hon. T. S., 96 Bread, The Staff of Life, 251 Brighton Chain Pier, 216 British and Foreign Bible Society, 162 Broad Dent, Sir W. H., Bt., 109 Brodie, Rev. A., D.D., 3, 8, 162, 168; extracts from letters of, 266 Brodie, Mrs., 10, 115 Brodie, Mr. Frederick, 33, 125 Brodie, Mr. Walter, 112, 166, 256 Brodie, Mr. William, 87, 157 Brodie, Miss Emma, 164, 253 Brodie, Miss Julia, 3, 87, 125, 192 Brodie, Miss Lydia, 3, 87, 192 Brodie, Miss Maria, 3, 57, 192 Broome, Mr., his School, 189 Burford, Mr. D., 124 Burlington, 2nd Earl of, 13, 16, 125, 165 Burlington, Blanche, Countess of, 16; her School, 192 Burnaby, Col. F., 118 Burton, Decimus (Architect); 36 Cairns, 1st Earl, 251 Caldecott, Mr. R.M., 19, 112, 181, 206 Caldecott Museum, 19, 206 Cambridge, 1st Duke of, 70 Cambridge, 2nd Duke of. 54, 80 Campbell's Lives of the Chancellors, 28 Cancellor, Mr. R., 108 CANDLES, GAS AND WATKB, 98 Candlesticks, 98 Cane, Mr. H., 207 Canino, Prince of, 53 Capua, Prince and Princess of, 53 Caiden, Alderman Sir K. W., M.P., 61, 63 Cardwell, Col., 75 Carson, Sir E., Q.C., M.P., 235 Carter, J., 106 Cary, Rev. J. W., D.D., 144 Cavendish, Lord, 40 Cavendish, Lord Edwaid, 165, 221 Cavendish, Lady Edward, 247 Cavendish, Ijord Frederick, 165 Cavendish, Lord George, 14 Cavendish, Lord Richard (Senr.), 16, 102 Cavendish, Lord Richard (Junr.), 248 Cavendish, Lady Louisa, 165 Cavendish, Mrs., 16, 17 Cavendish, Mr. F. W. H., 56, 81, 91, 153, 154, 231 Cavendish, Gen. the Hon. H. F., 231 Cavendish, Mrs. F. W. H., 56 Cavendish, Mr. and Mrs. Reginald, 57 Cavendish, Mr. Delmar, 147 Cavendish, Mr Victor, 235, 247 Cavendish, Col., H. H. F., 256 Cemetery, 91 Chamberlain, Mr. Austen, M.P., 235 Chambers, G. F., 104 Chambers, Mrs. G. F., 57 Charity Organisation Society, 90 Chariot, 123 Charley, Sir W., 95, 96 Cherrill, Rev. A. K., 115 Chichester, Bishop of (Durnford), 64, 184 Chichester, Bishop of (Wilberforce), 186 Chichester, 3rd Earl of, 135, 256 China, Old, A Story of, 261 Chinese Ambassador and Family, 58 Choral Society, 90 Christian Names, Unfamiliar Women's, 285 Churches: St. Mary's, 164; Holy Trinity, 32, 174, 184; Christ Church, 176; St. Saviour's, 177; St. John's, 21, 36, 179; All Saints', 182; All Souls', 184; St. Anne's, 182; St. Peter's, 187; St. Michael's, 173 Church Congress at Brighton, 161 Church Disestablishment, 96 Church Institute, Proposed, 88 Church Missionary Society, 162 Church Pastoral Aid Society, 162 Church Patronage, 186 Church Rates, 156 Churchill, Lord and Lady E. S., 60, 118 Churchill, Lord Randolph, 249 Churchill, Mr. Winston, 250 Civility to Strangers, 293 Clarke, Capt, G. E., 253 Clerical Costumes, 170 ; Surnames, 294 Clock, Old, A Story of, 262 Climpson, Mr. Reuben, 218 Coaches to East-Bourne, 122 ; to and from Sussex, 258 Coal and Clothing Society, 87 Coal Company, Limited, 88 Coals, Sea-borne, 51 Coast Guard Station, 45 Cochrane, Lord, 81 Cochrane- Patrick, Mr., M.P., 235 INDEX. 299' Cockburn, Sir A. J. E., 108 Cockerell, Mr. J. P., 116 Coins as Measures, 293 Colchester, Lord and Lady, 61, 62 Coles, Mr. J. H. C., 33, 107, 217 Colgate, Mr. R., 99, 110 Colgate, Dr. H., 110, 154 Colgate, Miss, 154 College, East-Bourne, 34 Committees of Ladies, 264 COMPANIES, SOCIETIES, INSTITUTIONS, 86 Compton Place, 14. 16, 36, 56, 57, 162, 248 ; Garden Party at, 254 Constables, Parish, 105; High, 105 Police, 106 ; Special, 106 Conversazione of the Natural History Society, 115 Cook, Mr. T. , 1 1 Cook, Miss Mary, 11 Cooper, Mr. B./31, 99 Cornfield Road, 39 Cornfield Terrace, 49 Coutts, Mr., 189 County Council Elections, 202 County Councils and Education, 194 County Court, 107 Coventry, 8th Earl of, 1 Crake, Eev. E. E., 33, 153 Cricket at East-Bourne, 144,146, 148; Old Club, 144; at Brighton, 145 Crimean War, 43, 49, 71, 243 Croquet, 149 Currey, Mr. H., 188, 220, 222 Currey and Holland, 128 Curteis, Mr. H. M., 129 Cuthell, Mr. A., 40 Cuthell, Mrs., 165 Cygnet Yacht, 48 D Daily Telegraph on East- Bourne, 159 Darby, Mr. George, M.P., 74, 102 Darby, Lieut. Jonathan, 37 Darling, Dr.. 24 Davies, Rev. R. V. F., 34 De Lasteyrie, Marquis, 59 De Noailles, Countess, 21 De Zuylen de Nyevelt, Baroness, 60 De La Warr Family, 73 De La Warr, 5th Earl of, 136 De Walden House, 22 Debating Societies, 279 Deeds and Legal Documents, 278 Dent, Sir A., 104 Devonshire, 6th Duke of, 246 Devonshire, 7th Duke of, 13, 134, 147, 181, 184, 201, 246, 247 Devonshire, 8th Duke of, 17, 40, 80, 188, 235 Devonshire, 9th Duke of, 235, 247 Devonshire, Mr. T. H., 91 Devonshire Club, 91 Devonshire Park, 148, 221 Dewick, Rev. E. S., 115 Dexter, Mr. J., 99 Dinners, Public, Ladies at, 245 Dinner in old style, 246; of the "House of Commons," 93, 95, 96, 245 ; of the Liberal Party, 265 Diplock, Mr. C., 229 Dissent at East- Bourne, 180, 204 Dissenters and Church Rates, 156, 157 Education, 193 Dissenting Places of Worship, 30, 31 Dobree, Mr. S., 33, 125 Dogs and Cats. 278 Domesday Book, 2 Domville, Sir William, Bt., 33, 102, 158 Domville, Sir J. G., Bt., 33, 102 Drage, Mr. and Mrs. G., 61 Drury Family, 33. 43 Dundonald. l"2th Earl of, 81 Dunmow Flitch, 68 Dynevor, 4th Lord, 4 E East-Bourne, spelling of, 2 EAST-BOUENK BILLS IN PARLIAMENT, 206 East-Bourne Chronicle, 113, 138 East-Bourne Gas Company, 99 ; Its Acts of Parliament, 100 East- Bourne Gazette, 245 " East-Bourne Improvement Act, 1879," 215; Ditto, 1885, 209 East-Bourne Water Company, 100 ; Its Acts of Parliament, 101 Easter, Mr. J., 153 Easter Monday Reviews, 36, 78 East London Church Fund, 161 ECCLESIASTICAL, 156 Edgell, Mr. Wyatt, 113 " Edna Ly all," 113 EDUCATIONAL, 189 Education. Technical, 194 Egerton, Admiral, M.P., 165, 247 Egerton, Hon. Mrs., 196 Egerton, Lady Louisa, 57, 247 Eldon, 1st Earl of, 28 ELECTIONS, PABLIAMENTABY, 225 ELECTIONS, PAROCHIAL AND MUNICIPAL,. 197 Eliot, Rev. E F., 187 Eliot, Lady K., 187 Elliott, Benjamin, 82 Elliott, Mr. E., 95 Ellis. Hon. Charlotte, 90, 91 Ellis, Dr. H. D., 112 300 INDEX. Ellis, Mr. J., 226 Ellman, Mr. W., 128 Ellenborough, Lord, 109 Elm Cottage, 29 Elms, The, 37 Elphick's Field, 222, 223 Emary, Mr. F. H., 86 Emperor Napoleon, I., 82 Empress Frederick of Germany, 66 Encroachments of the Sea, 212 Esam, Mr. W., 153 Fairs at East-Bourne, 24, 25 Farnell, Dr. H. D., 104 Fiction and Fact, 256, 275, 283 Field, Admiral, M.P., 95, 210 Field House, 42 Filder, Mr. J., 201 Findlay, Sir G., 138 Fire Engines, 27, 248 Firework Displays, 125 FitzGerald, Sir G. J. O., 104, 234 Fletcher, Rev. J. B., 186 Foljambe, Mr. C. G., 17 Football, 144 Foran, Mr. J. C., 104 Fowler, Sir H. H., M.P., 209 Foxhounds, 151 Franklin, Sir John, 267 Franklin, Lady, 15 Free Trade Results, 84 French Readings, 199 Frohsdorf House, 147, 175 Funeral, Military, 177 G Galleries of The Houses of Parliament, Visits to, 289 GAMES AND SPOETS, 1 44 Oas Company, Establishment of, 99 Gell, Mr. F. H., 31, 103 Oell, Mr. Inigo, 103 George III., Children of, 52 ; Jubilee of, 82 German Emperor, William I., 54 German Plays, Readings of, 120 German Visitors, 60 Gilbert Family, Pedigree of, 16 Gilbert, Mr. Davies, 14 Gilbert, Mrs., 14, 248 Gilbert, Mr. J. D., 13, 14, 102, 165 Gilbert, Hon. Mrs., 15 Gilbert, Mr. C. D., 62. 124, 135, 163, 182, 201, 216, 222, 223 Gildredge Park, 224 Gladstone, Mr., 249 Glenesk, Lord and Lady, 61, 62 Goffs, The, 25 Golf, 152; A Magistrate's View of, 105 Gooch, Lady, 57 Goodwyn, Rev Canon, 186 Gordon, Colonel, 49 Gore, The, 10, 107, 239, 248 Goring, Rev. J., 229 Gorringe, Mr. Joseph, 18 Gosdcn Bros., 190 Gosden, Mr. J., 99, 157 Gottwaltz, Mr. J. F., 29 Gowland's Library, 45 Graham Family, 37, 44 Graham, Sir J. R. G., Bt., 107 Graham, Mr. J., 29, 37, 102 Graham, Mr. R. J., 29, 37, 102, 105, 113, 152, 157, 219 Graham, Rev. E. C., 152 Graham, Mr. T. H. B., 37 Grace, Mr. J., 253 Grace, Mrs., 180 Grace, Rev. H., 253 Granby, Marquis of, 63 Grand Parade, 36 Grays, The, 15, 249 Greame, Dr., 57 Gregory, Mr. G. B., M.P., 240 Grotto, The, 38, 175 Grove, The, 27 Groynes, The, 212 Guardian Newspaper, 242 Guardians of the Poor, 197, 202 Guardians, Lady, 202 Guy Fawkes Day, 237 H Hall, Dr. D. J., 29, 33, 46, 87, 99, 109, 110, 125 Hall, Miss W. L., 115 Hamilton- Gordon, Lady, 117 Hampden, 1st Viscount, 201 Hanbury, Mr. R., M.P., 147 Harbour, Suggested, 50 Harcourt, Sir W., M.P., 191 Harcourt, Mr. L., 191 Hardy, Mr. H. W., 90 Harriers, 151 Hart Family, 166 Hart, Mr. S., 67 Hartington, Marquis of, 17, 57, 165 Hawkins- Whitshed, Lady, 118 Hayman, Dr. C. C., 112 Hayman, Dr. C. N. Plate XLI. Heatherly, J., 45 Heinemann Family, 7 Heley, Lieut., 79 Herschel, Lady, 117 Hewitt, Capt,, 32 Hibbert, Sir J. T. and Lady, 61, 247 INDEX. 301 Hobby Bank. Plate XI". Hockey, 144 Holker Hall, 247 Holland, Lord, 63 Holmes Family, 1 5 Holmes, Sir R., 118 Holy well, 181 Hood, Mr. A. R., 16 Hood, Mrs. W. C., 16 Hood, Miss, 1 15 Hook, Theodore, 112 Hope, Mr. Beresford, M.P., 64, 65 Hospital, All Saints' Convalescent, 56 ; All Saints' Children's, 57 ; Princess Alice Memorial, 55, 56, 89 ; Military, 49 " House of Commons," East-Bourne, 92 Howard, Mr. F. J., 88, 123, 147, 162, 184 Howard, Lady Fanny, 16, 17, 55, 147, 256 Howard De "Walden, Lady, 22, 91 Hughes, Mr. Percival, 118 Huntly, llth Marquis of, 146 " Hunt Sermons," 277 Hurst, Mr. A., 99 Hurst, Mr. (Brewer), 190 Huxley, Prof. T. H., 117 Hyde Gardens, 59 Hymn-book of Parish Church, 171 Illustrated London News, 55, 84 Incorporation of the Town, 200, 238 Inglis, Mr. J. C., 139 Insoll, Mr. R., 116, 219 INTRODUCTORY, 1 Iron Churches, 177, 182 James, Rev. H., 5 Jeffery, Dr. G. A., 33, 99, 110, 116, 175 Jenny Lind, 113 Johnson, Mrs., 29 K Keay, Alderman H. W., 79, 104 Keeping Family, 31 Kerry, Rev. W. B., 176 Kilmorey, 3rd Earl of, 147 King George III., Children of, 52 King Edward VII., Visits of, to East- Bourne, 17, 38, 163 King's Arms Inn, 42 Kitching, Lieut. R.N., 48 Knight, Mr. J. P., 133 Ladies at Public Dinners, 245 Lady Guardians, 202 Lain?, Mr. 8., 132 Lamb Inn, 24 Lanyon Family, 31, 119, 251 Lanyon, Sir C., 119, 251 Lanyon, Sir 0.. 119, 251 Lambert, Mr. R. C., 104 Lansham, Mr. J. G., 103, 322 Larkjleld House, 32, 34 Lasteyrie, Marquis De, 69 LAW, POLICE, MEDICAL, 102 Law, Hon. H. S., 109 Lawrence, Mr. G. H., 204 Law-suite. Local, 106 Lawn Tennis, 149 Lay Family, 45 Le Blond, Mrs. Aubrey, 118 Leach, Sir John, V.C., 28 Lennard, Sir J. F., Bt . 191 Leslie-Melville, Lady Susan, 58 Lilford, Dowagrer Lady, 61, 62 Lime Cottage, 29 Links with the Past, 263 LlTEBATUBE, SCIENCE, AND ABT, 1 1 1 Literary Institution, 30, 87 Literary Visitors to East- Bourne, 113 Liverpool, 1st Earl of. 17 Livingstone, Miss, 154 Livingstone House, 49 Lloyd, Rev. W. H., 177 Local Board, 198, 200 Local Government in Sussex, 197 Locker- Lampson, Mrs., 196 Locock, Sir C., Bt., 178, 253 London, Chatham and Dover Railway, 129, 131, 134 Long, Lady Catherine, 1 1 2 Long, Mr. W. H., M.P., 185 Lome, Marquis of, 54 Lome, Marchioness of, 58 Lush, Mr., Q.C., 157 Lushington, Rev. Dr., 14 M Macauley, Col. G. W., 90 Maddock, Rev. H. E., 115, 216 Manby, Mr. C., 16 Manners, Lord J. J. R. ("th Duke of Rutland), 240 Manners, Mr. H. (8th Duke of Rut- land), 63 Manners and Customs, Changes in, '276 Manor House, 14, 62, 163 .302 INDEX. Manslaughter, Case of, 108 Manslaughter, Punishment awarded for stealing, 243 Maps, Old of East-Bourne, lost, 115 Mar, Earl of, 120 Marriage, Letter of offer of, 295 Martello Towers, 51 Martin, Sir J. R., 109 Matthey, Mr. G., 147 Maugery, Mdlle., 67 Mayhewe, Mr. A., 95, 104 Mayo, 6th Earl of, 66 Mayors, Status of, 105 McCHntock, Sir L., 15 Meads, 18, 179 Meath, Earl and Countess of, 61 Mereweather, Serjeant, Q.C., 171 Mid- Victorian Meal times, 289 MlLITAEY AND NAVAL EPISODES, 69 Militia, Norfolk Artillery, 72 Militia, South Gloucester, 3 Militia, Sussex Artillery, 71, 110 Mill -field, 26 Mills at East-Bourne, 25 Mills, Mr. A., M.P.. 147 MISCELLANEOUS, 236 Mitchfll, Mr. O., 154 Molineux & Co., 99 Molineux, Major H. P., 104, 145 Molesworth, 8th Viscount, 147 Monk Bretton, 1st Lord, 235 Moonlight Festivities, 20, 21 Morier, Admiral, 40 Morison Family, 120 Morrison, Alderman W. E., 201, 210 Morris, Mr. J. B., 229 Morris, Mr. W., 31 Morris, Mr. H., 69 M ortimer Family, 119 Mortimer, J. H. (Artist), 119 Mortimer,Mrs. (Authoress), 40 Mortimer, Miss, 33, 119 Moseley, Dr. G., 112 Motcombe Lane, 11 Muller, Mr. C. J., 115 Municipal Trading, 211 Mutual Improvement Society, 88, 92 N Napier of Magdala, 1st Lord, 81 Napoleon I. , 3 Natural History Society, 114, 216 Nelson, 3rd Earl, 64 Neu> Inn, 30 New Churches, Frequently wanted, 173 Newbolt, Canon, 64 Newman, Mr. William, 125 Newspapers, Local, 12, 111 Newspapers, London, 12 Novel Experiences, 286 Oak Cottage, 38, 175 Oakden, Lieut.-Col. A. A., 75 Obbard, Kev. A. N., 160, 187 Ocklynge, 9 Officers stationed at East-Bourne, 71, 72 Ogle, Commander, R.N., 48 Open Spaces, 221 Ordination at East-Bourne, 179 Organists, Caution as to, 179 Ottley, Rev. Canon H. B., 165, 175 Ouroussoff, Prince J., 58 Ouse Valley Railway, 129 Ouseley, Rev. Sir F. A. G., 64 "PADDING" AND " SCISSORS AND PASTE," 272 Palmer, Mr. J. C., 40 Palmer, Rev. J. H., 154, 187, 222 Papendiek, Mrs., 53 Paramor, Lieut. F. R., 79 Paxton, Sir J., 17 Pedestrianistn, 152 Peel, Sir C. L., 129 Peerless, Mr. J., 249 Pendrell Family, 39 Penruddocke, Mr., 186 Peppercorne Family, 12 Pevensev Corporation, 244 Picnics, "20, 35, 114 Picknell Family, 24 Pidcock, Mr., 164 Pierpoint, Rev. R. W., 138, 174, 185 Pierpoint, Rev. R. D , 116 Piggott, Sir A., 28, 29, 32 Piggott, Lady, 28 Pigs as Engineers, 256 Pinnock, R., 190 Pitman, Rev. T., 13, 33, 87, 167, 158, 167, 176, 178, 184, 221 Pitman, Miss, 57 Pitman, Miss E., 57 Pitman Institute, 172 Podmore, Mr., 154 Police Force, Statistics of, 106 Polling Places in Sussex, 226, 228, 230 Population Statistics, 236 Posadowsky, Countess, 60 Postal Arrangements in 1874, 239 Prentice Street, 33 Preachers at the Parish Church, 167 Primrose League, 233, 234 Princess Alice, Grand Duchess of Hesse, 54, 65 Princess Christian, 55 Princess Louisa, Marchioness of Lome, 54, 58 INDEX. 303 Printers at East-Bourne, 245 Privateer8,French,offEast-Bourne,259 " Public Libraries Acts," 207 Purcell Glee Society, 91 Q 'Quarry of Green Sandstone, 35 R Races, 150 RAILWAYS AND TBAVBLLING, 122 Kailway to East-Bourne, Opening of, 123, 124; Accidents, 137 ; Carriages. 127 Ranking, Dr., 31, 110 Ration, 6 Rawdon, Mr. C. W., 32, 34 Redoubt, The Great, 49 Hegatta, First at East- Bourne, 151 Reviews, Easter Monday, 78 ; Various Naval, 85 Rice, Hon. and Rev. W. T., 186 Roberts, Dr. Bransby, 110 Hobinson, Rev. W. B., 12, 289 Robinson, Mr. E., 23 Rodwell, Mr. E. K., Q.C., 104 Rollison, John, 124 Roper, Mr. F. C. S., 212, 115 Rose Cottage, 29 Jtotemount, 147, 175 Routledge, Mr. W., 88 Round House, The, 43 ROYAL AND DISTINGUISHED VISITOKS, 52 Royal Parade, 50 Royer, J., 28, 112 Russian Prisoners at Lewes, 243 Rutland, 7th Duke of, 240 Rutland, 8th Duke of, 63 -Ryle, T., 115 Sala, G. A., 159 Salisbury, Marquis of, 95 Salt, Mr. T., M.P., 61, 90 Salvation Army, 209 Sanders, Mr. R. D., 164 Sarle, Sir A., 136, 138 Scarlett, Mrs. Leopold, 63 Schools, Elementary, 185, 191 Schools, Private, 191 School Board,NoneatEast-Bourne,192 School Feasts, 172 Schuster, Mr. L., 125 Screen, Folding, 120 Sea-Beach House, 42, 48 Seaford, 84 ; proposed Railway to, 135 Season Extension Movement, 241 SEA WALLS : TOWN HALLS : PUBLIC PAEKS, 212 Sea Wall, 50, 212 Shakespeare Readings, 60, 89, 119 Shaw, Col. E. W., 104 Sheep-stealing, Sermon on, 242 Sheffield, 3rd Earl of, 76, 133 Sheffield Park, Camps at, 76 Sheridan, Mr. J., 219 Shomerdyke Road, 33 Shrewsbury, 19th Earl of, 109 Shuttleworth, Lord, 15 Shuttleworth, Sir J. Kay-, 15 Silhouette Pictures, 121 Simmons, Mr. C., 99 Skeletons, Discovery of, 8 Skinner, Alderman J. A., 138, 204 Smith-Dorrien-Smith, Mr. A., 247 Smith-Dorrien, Rev. W., 247 Snow Hut, 238 Snowstorms, 7 Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, 162 Somerset, Gen. E. A., 253 Sortwell, Rev. T., 163 South African War, 78, 81 South Street, 31 Southfield Lodge, 33 " Speaker of the House of Commons," 9o Spelling Bee, 152 Spelling: "f " East-Bourne," 2 Splash Point, 82, 44 : Accident at, 44 Squirrel Inn, 234 St. Gregory's Chapel, 181 Stalbridge, Lord and Lady, 61, 62 Stations, Railway, at Eastbourne, 127 Stokes, Rev. G., 23, 33 Stokes, Rev. H. P., 186 Stone, Mr. R. B., 18, 99 Stone, Rev. S. J., 64, 67 Stool-Ball, 149 Strange, Alderman N., 92, 104 Streatfeild Family, 48 Streatfeild, Mr. J., 48 Streatfeild, Mr. F. H. T., 48 Streatfeild, Mr. R. J., 6 Stroud, Mr. D., 189 Sunday Bands, 158, 159, 183 ; Trains, Excursions, 264 Sunday League, National, 159 Surrey and Sussex Railway, 129 Susan*, The, 37 Swift, Mr. J., 33 Syllabub Parties, 254 Talbot, Mr. J. G., M.P., 61, 90, 207 Technical Education, 1 95 Temperance Reform, 281 Tennyson, Lord, 113 Tennyson, Sir. Frederick, 113 304 INDEX. Terminus Road, Laying-out of, 38 Terrace, The, 32 Thatcher, Mr. G., 99 Theatre, Old, in South Street, 31 Thomas, Mr. Inigo, 7 Thomas, Mr. Freeman, 11, 125, 151 Thomas, Mr. Freeman (Lord Willing- don), 224 Thomas, Mr. W. B., 6 Thomas, Mr. F. F., 7, 74 Thomas, Mr. A. G., 7 Thomas, Hon. Mrs., 196 Thomus, John, J24 Thurlow House, 28 Thurlow, Lord, 28 Ticehurst, Proposed Railway from, 134 Tick, Tick, Tick, 282 Tides, High, Ravages of, 48 Time, Economy of, 282 Times Newspaper, 272 Toogood, Mr. H., 128 TOPOGBAPHICAL ToUE ROUND THE TOWN, 5, 27, 42 Torpedoes, 84 Town Hall, Proposed Sites, 217; Plans, Controversy as to, 220 Trafalgar, Battle of, 82 Train Service to East-Bourne, 126 Trains through from the Midlands, 138 Tramways, 139 Trinity Parsonage, 32 Truman, Mr., 31 Tseng, Marquis, 59 Tucker, Railway Inspector, 138 Tunbridge Wells, Hallways to and from, 129, 130, 131 Turnpike Trust, Abolition of, 124 u Upperton, 182 Unreformed Corporations, 243 Usill, Bev. J. H., 183 Vestments, 170 Vicarage, Old, 13; Existing, 13 Vidler, Mr. M., 213 Vincent, Sir Howard, M.P., 36 Volunteers; East-Bourne Rifles, 70, 74 ; Artillery, 74 ; Engineers, 75, 78 ; During the French War, 69 W Wales, Prince and Princess of, 56, 57 77 Wallis, Mr. G. A., 50, 104, 105, 134, 201, 207, 208, 235, 241, 245 Wallis, Mr. W. L., 35, 104 Walter, Sir E., 69 Walter, Mr. J., M.P.. 242 Ward, Dr. O., 115 Water Company, East-Bourne, 100 Water Works Buildings, 38 Water Lane, 26 Waterloo, Battle of, 81, 169 Weddings at East-Bourne, 252 Welch, Rev. T. R., 162 Welch, Alderman J., 154, 172 Wellesley, Lady V. L., 33, 184 Wellesley, Col. A., 63 Wellington, Duke and Duchess of, 65 Welsh and English, 281 West, Miss, 30, 34 Whentcroft, Mr. W. G., 88 Whelpton, Rev. H. R., 57, 153, 178 Whelpton, Mr. G., 178 Whiteman, Mr. A., 32, 99 Whitley, Mr. N., 222 Whitley, Mr. H. M., 50 Wilberforce, Bishop S., 176 Wilde, Gen. Sir A. T., 19 Wilford, Major and Mrs., 30 Willard, Family, 15 Willard, Col. John H.. 226 Willard, Major N., 12, 1 6, 102,124,169. 284 Willard, Capt. L. R., 46, 102 Willard, Mrs. John, 124 Willard, Miss, 12 Willingdon, 5 ; Union of with East- Bourne, 200 Willingdon, Lord, 224 Windsor Castle, Visit to, 118 Wish, The, 35 Wish Tower, 35 Wolseley, Lord, 81 Wolverhampton, Viscount, 209 Wood. Rev. J. R., 34 Wood, Rev. S. T., 154 Woodhouse, Miss A., 115 Workhouse, 224 Wrecks, 9 ; Dalhousie, 83 ; Gannet, 84 ; Nympha Americana, 84, 265 ; Sea- flower, 83 ; Thames, 84 Wright, Rev. F. W., 164 Young, Mr. T., 204 Young Men's Christian Association, 95 Zouche, Lord, 66 THE DRAWING-ROOM AND SCHOOL-ROOM SHAKESPEARE. Cfce jtterrfjant of Venter. IN LARGE TYPE SLIGHTLY ABRIDGED FOE BEADING ALOUD ARRANGED BT COTSFORD DICK. EDITED BY GEOEGE F. CHAMBEES, F.E.A.S. OF THB INSBB TBMPLB, BABBISTBB-AT-LAW. Author if "A Handbook of Agronomy," "A Conation! English-French-Oerman Dictionary;" "The Pocket-Book;" and other Work*. LONDON : HUGH EEES, LIMITED. ,19 PALL MALL, S.W. 1908. Price ONE SHILLING Soar,l>. Jlerr!)ant of EXTRACTS FROM PREFACE. THE Title-page of* this book states nearly all that it is necessary to say by way of Preface. Shakespeare's Plays are much more read ami studied than they used to be ; and Shakespearian Readings in private houses are much more common than formerly. It has fallen to my lot to organise many such Readings : either in my own or in other people's houses, and the labour involved has been greatly increased by reason of the fact that there does not exist a single edition of these famous Plays which can be put into the hands of a Lady Reader to be read textually from end to end. An attempt has been made in this direction by Bowdler, but he did not go nearly far enough ; and did nothing to abridge the Plays to bring them within a convenient compass of length for the use of private parties of Readers sitting round a winter's fire. I have attempted to meet this difficulty by a judicious abridgement, which whilst in no case interfering serious- ly with the sense of the dialogue will yet enable the Play to be gone through by a body of average Readers within the space of about two hours. It is a great help to a pleasant evening if at the breaks provided by the l\,,-t some instrumental or vocal music is introduced. Accordingly, provision h; : made for this. Every Shakespearian Reading of a social character, where more than, say, a dozen persons are concerned, should begin with an Overture of some sort. This serves as a warning, alike to readers and audience, that the proceed- ings are about to commence, and gives an opportunity to everbody to settle intc their places before the actual commencement of the Dialogue. Many of Shake- speare's Plays contain songs interspersed in the text. Though these are not, a.* a rule, of much literary merit, yet there they are, and many of them have been set to music by various composers at various times. It seems appropriate to make use of some of these compositions where facilities exist for doing so. As regards the incidental allusions to musical instruments which occur in so many places, though the phraseology of them varies in different Plays it is believed that the Appendix will meet all the necessities of the case. I am much indebted to my Musical Colleague Mr. Cotsford Dick, for the judgement and skill which he has shown in executing the. task which I imposed on him, of providing the novel Miisical Appendix. Another feature of this edition is the large type employed. Readings of Shakespeare nearly always take place in the evening, and where 2 <>r /, dozen Readers are concerned it does not always happen ( I speak from experience ) that all are provided with good and sufficient light. To have at command abool printed in large type is under such circumstances an obvious desideratum for every class of Reader. In accordance with the precedents set by previous Editors occasionally an objectionable word is replaced by a pleasanter equivalent. In this case the substituted word is enclosed in single inverted commas. [ SPECIMEN PAGE. ] Cljr JHe rdjant of Vtnitt. ACT I. SCENE I. Venice. A Street. Enter ANTONIO, SALARINO, and SOLANIO. In sooth, I know not why I am so sad : It wearies me; you say it wearies you But how I caught it, found it, or came by it, What stuff 'tis made of, whereof it is born, I am to learn; And such a want- wit sadness makes of me, That I have much ado to know myself. Saldr. Your mind is tossing on the ocean; There where your argosies with portly sail, Like signiors and rich burghers on the flood, Or, as it Avere the pageants of the sea, Do overpeer the petty traffickers, That curt'sy to them, do them reverence, As they fly by them with their woven wings. Solan. Believe me, sir, had I such venture forth, The better part of my affections would Be with my hopes abroad. I should be still Plucking the grass, to know where sits the wind; Peering in maps for ports, and piers, and roads; O)e (Enfflfc!;, Jfrenrf), anto German Conbersattonal Mcttonarp. BY GEORGE F. CHAMBERS. F.R.A.S. REVIEWS AND NOTICES. " The design of the work is a thoroughly practical one, and, so far as we have consulted the Dictionary it appears to have been executed, within the limits imposed, with great care and precision. " Times. " A complete Vocabulary, the object being to assist conversation rather than the literary studies of the would-be linguist. An exceptionally excellent plan is the distinction of masculine, feminine, and neuter substantives ; the first being given in small capitals, the second in italics, and the third in large capitals. By these means thework gives in the cant term of the racing world " Form at a glance.' " Morning Pout. "A handy book for travellers containing in a portable form a good Vocabulary of everyday words and expressions. It should certainly be added to that Library without which the ordinary British Tourist would not think of venturing abroad." Vanity Fair. " A book that will prove highly valuable to Tourists. The book is a great improvement on previous attempts, and deserves high praise." Athencfiiiii. " The si/.e of the book is most suitable for the pocket, and we should say that no Tourist should travel abroad without this very excellent Hand-book." Whitehall Review. 'A valuable book for travellers. Simple in construction and compre- hensive in character it deserves the highest praise." 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BouteilleiL VIN. Weinflusche. cellar. Cave. WEI.NKKU,R. t> glass (large). VERRE a Bordeaux. ROTIHVEIXGLA8. s Klass (medium). VERRE a MadCre. MADERAGLAS. glass (very VERRE a liqueur. LIQUEURGLAS. small). >% grower. VITICULTKUR. WEINBAUE*. JO growing. Ii'industrie vinicole. WEINBAC. growing PAYS de VIGNOBLES. REBLAKD. country. growing dis- PAYS vignoble. H'eingegend. +J trict. JJ5 merchant. XKGOCIANT en VINS. \V K 1 MI AMI I.K R-l. g Trotte. press. ^, it. <2 shop (low). sauce au VIN . CABARET. Schenke. N -strainer. PASSE-VIN. Weinteihe 2 Wing. Aile. FLGEL. UAH I'M. II.. liques. 4 -work. GRI LLAGE m * _ _ ^-.__ BT G. F. CHAMBERS, F.R.A.S., Barrister-at-Law. CRITICISMS FROM PRIVATE LETTERS. " It is far above anything I have handled at double the money, and most useful. " J.P.G. " This admirable little book is so useful that it merits the help of everyone to keep it up to the mark. " C.D.S. " It has been so useful to me and I have never yet fail- ed to find the exact sentence I wanted. " K.K. " I think the little book is most handy, and valuable for all the information it contains. " I.H. " Thanks to the little book and a dictionary we made ourselves understood in the primitive towns in Friesland. " M.C.G. " I have had and given away several copies of this book \vhich I consider one of the most useful and practical books of its class that I know." C.W.S. Other Works by G. P. 3nd Edition. It Fcp. 8vo., pp. 732, Price 2*. 6d. DICTIONARY, Practical and Conversational, of the ENG- LISH; FRENCH, and GERMAN Languages, for the use of Travellers. The 3 Languages are arranged in parallel columns, which greatly fac- ilitates the use of the book. In other respects, too, it presents some novel features. By G. F. CHAMBERS. London : H. RBBS, 119 Pall Mall. In Demy 8vo., pp. 256, with 105 Illustrations, Price 6. COMETS, THE STOKY OF, simply told for General Readers. A complete account, descriptive and historical, of these bodies. Oxford : CLARENDON PRESS. London : H. FROWDB, Amen Corner. "Th>- Drawing-room anl School-room Shakefpeare." In Crown 8vo., pp. 80, Price 1*. SHAKESPEARE'S MERCHANT OF VENICE. In large Type, .slightly abridged for reading aloud, with a Musical Appendix. ion: H. RBKS, 119 Pall Mall. CHAMBERS. F.R.A.S. 4th Edition, in Demy 8vo., pp. 1686, with 504 Illustrations, Price 28*. The Set, Or teparately Vol. I. pp. xxxii, 676, tritk 253 IllnilraHoni, cloth, price 21*. THE SUN, PLANETS, COMETS. Vol. II. pp. xx, 558, tcith 169. Illuttrntionf , cloth, price 2i. INSTRUMENTS; PRACTICAL AST. Vol. III. pp. xvi, 384, irt/A 8 1 Illiotrationi, cloth, price 14*. THE STARRY HEAVENS. DESCRIPTIVE ASTRONOMY, General Book of Reference for all classes ot readers. Oxford : CLARENDON PRESS. London: H. FBOWDB, Amen Corner. 2nd Ed. in Demy 8vo., pp. 696. 6. A CYCLE OF CELESTIAL OBJECTS. 1604 Double SUrs. Clusters, and Nebulae, selected for the use of amateurs. By Admiral W. H. Smyth, K.S.F.,and G. F. Chambers. Oxford : CLARENDON PRESS. London : H. 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