THE o[ | ECONOMY OF FOOD; OR. AT SHALL WE EAT. BKIXG USEFUL Wessons for Jlitjj niti 10or, INCLUDING THE STORY OF O X E I) I M E A 1) A Y , now TWAS EARNED; AND now 'TWAS SPENT; AND HOW FIVK MOUTHS IT FED. 15 V SOL O X R B 1 X S X OF THE NEW YORK TBIBL'SE OF KICK. XEW YORK: i c > w i , i : i : A N i) w K r. i, s , p u B L i s 1 1 J-: i ; s , 308 BROADWAY. i s :(,. \ Pun. M.EI.PIIH : I No. i>i!l Arrli-slr,,-!. IICSB LIBKAKY VI ( s THE / V \..X THE ECONOMY OF FOOD; BEING USEFUL 'mans far it unfr jaar, INCLUDING THE STORY OF ONE DIME A DAY, HOW TWAS EARNED ; AND HOW TWAS SPENT ; AND HOW FIVE MOUTHS IT FED. BY SOLON ROBINSON, OP T.'IK NEW YORK TEIBUKB OFFICE. NEW YORK: FOWLEU AND WELLS, PUBLISHERS, 308 BROADWAY. BOSTON: ^ \ o - f> j PHILADELPHIA: 142 Washington-st. > . 1 O O. ) No. 281 Arch-street. SNTIUKD, ACCORDING TO ACT OP CONORZS3, IN THE YEAR 1855, BT SOLON EOBINSON, IN THE CLERK'S OFFICE OF THB DISTRICT COURT OF THE UN:TZD STATZS roa THE SOUTHERN DISTRICT OF NB'W TORE. DAVIES AND lloitEKTs, STEREOTYI-EKS, 201 AVilliam Street, New York. TO EVERY MAN, WOMAN, AND CHILD, WHO LOVES GOOD FOOD, AND 0f its AND WHO DE8IEE8 TO LKABN HOW TO "MAKE MUCH OF LITTLE," 2Ti)fs afttlc ttooft IS HUMBLY DEDICATED BY THEIR FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. PUBLISHERS' ADVERTISEMENT. THIS is a book for the million. It is full of instruction, of the most val- uable kind. It is good for rich and poor; though it was written for the latter, by one of much experience in the matter he writes about, and whose articles upon the subject of food, as published in the New York Tribune, are among the most popular of the things printed in that journal. A portion of these articles are embodied in this book, which is printed in this compact form for preservation, and to give them a still wider circu- lation, that they may do still more good. As publishers of some experience, we earnestly commend these lessons in economy to every family in America. We are far more anxious for their wide-spread circulation than we are for any profits of publication ; and where we are assured that the book is purchased for gratuitous circu- lation, it will be sold at cost ; and to all who purchase for retail, we shall give it for an unusual small profit, because we want it spread abroad for the good it will do the reader, more than the publishers or author. The suggestion at the end of the first article, as to how a Dime can be profitably spent, is worthy of the serious consideration of all dispensers of charity. Read it. Read the book, and reflect upon its contents, is the advice of THE PUBLISHERS. PREFACE. IT may seem idle to write a preface to so small a book. It may be idle to print matter in a book that has been printed in a paper with 184,000 sub- scribers. Papers don't keep books do. This matter is worth keeping. It is good to-day was good last year will be next, and the year after. I have been induced by two or three reasons to print it in this form. In the first place, because Horace Greeley said it would do good. I respect his judgment. In the second place, I thought so myself. I respect that judgment. In the third place, in acting as Secretary of the AMERICAN WIDOWS' RELIEF ASSOCIATION of this great city, I have found a great many women in want of just such information as may be found in these pages. In fact, as you will see, I found one who could teach me. She taught me the value of a Dime the value of this little book. It has a queer name, you say. Perhaps ; but it is a good one. I hope you will say it is a good book, and buy it, and that its lessons are worth A DIME. And that brings me to another reason. I write for a living. If you buy the book, you will help me live perhaps you may help somebody else at the same time. How ? Every Dime you give for a book will give a cent to me. Ten cents make one Dime. Now read what can be done what has been done with one Dime. You will find in these pages the story of a woman who knew the value of a Dime, and every one of its ten cents. THE Y A L II E OF A DIME. ONE DIME. (from the Tribune, Friday, December 7, 1855.) 'Tis a little sum 'tis often given for a drink or a cigar 'tis soon burned out and wasted. It takes ten dimes to make a dollar, and a dollar is a common price for a single meal. It is soon eaten its effects are not lasting, except when it produces dyspepsia, and then it often costs a hundred dimes to purchase medicine that does not cure the disease. To those who never dine for less than a dollar, how unsatisfactory would be a dinner for a Dime ! Reader, have you ever reflected how many entire families in this city, where food is so dear, dine every day for less than one Dime? Did you ever think of bestowing one Dime for charitable purposes, and how ranch good that would do? What if every subscriber to the Weekly Tribune should give one Dime with his subscription, to be applied to the necessities of the needy and deserving poor in this city did you ever consider what a sum it would be? Look at it 137,000 subscribers at one Dime each is $13,700! What if it were applied to purchase bread, say at five cents a loaf! It would buy 1,740,000 loaves of bread. What if we should announce that such a quantity of bread was about to be given to the poor in this city ! The whole land would rejoice. How much can be done with one Dime! 1* WHAT TO BUY WITH A DIME. Let us see what we would do with it if we had but one only one Dime in the world and yet with that must provide for a family consisting of a mother and four children for a whole day. We would not buy bakers' bread at sixpence a loaf very small loaves, too, never weighing over a pound, however moist or however adul- terated with corn, potatoes, or buckwheat, which are harmless or \vith plaster of Paris, lime, alum, sulphate of zinc, ground bones, and we do not know how many other deleterious substances. No, we would not buy bakers' bread with our Dime, nor would we buy fine flour at six or seven cents a pound, else some of the chil- dren would go hungry. We might buy corn meal and make a cheap cake, or a pot of mush, or a larger pot of porridge, or we might buy two pounds of hominy, and then our Dime would feed the family one full meal ; but to this latter article there is one objection. Where is the fuel to come from to cook this mess? for corn, more than any other grain, requires cooking to make it palatable and wholesome. Two, three, or even four hours of slow boiling is not too much. Our Dime will not cook as well as buy the corn meal or hominy. What then? Pota- toes ! Let us see. They require least cooking ; but they cost, with all their water and they are more than half water two cents and a half a pound at retail. Then they are not cheap food after all. It will not do to spend our Dime for potatoes. What then ? It is no easy study to learn how to pro- cure the most human food for a Dime ; to ascertain how many hungry mouths may be fed how many empty stomachs satisfied, for one Dime. It is a study too much neglected. It should be taught in all Public Schools. Certainly in all Charity, Industrial, and Ragged Schools, where children are fed as well as taught. What better wisdom could you teach them than how to procure the most food for a Dime? It is a little coin, but it can be made to expand. It would be real charity genuine PRACTICAL CHARITY. charity practical charity to teach such scholars econ- omy in food ; not how to eat less, to live upon less for, Heaven knows, some of them live upon little enough now but to teach them what to buy, in case of emerg- ency, with a little coin only one Dime. We have lately learned that lesson, and we will teach it to you. We learned it of a woman that is, the practical opera- tion of it though she says she learned it of us. from something she read about economizing food in the Tri- "I had," said she, "one day last week, only one Dime in the world, and that was to feed me and my four chil- dren all day ; for I would not ask for credit, and I would not borrow, and I never did beg. I did live through the day, and I did not go hungry. I fed myself and family with one Dime." "How?" "Oh, that was not all. I bought fuel, too." "What, with one Dime?" "Yes, with one Dime! I bought two cents' worth of coke, because that is cheaper than coal, and because I could kindle it with a piece of paper in my little furnace with two or three little bits of charcoal that some care- less boy had dropped in the street just in my path. With three cents I bought a scraggy piece of salt pork, half fat and half lean. There might have been half a pound of it the man did not weigh it. I^ow half my money was gone, and the show for breakfast, dinner, and supper was certainly a very poor one. With the rest of tny Dime I bought four cents' worth of white beans. By-the-by, I got these at night, and soaked them in tepid water on a neighbor's stove till moraine;. I had one cent left. I ~ o bought one cent's worth of corn meal, and the grocery man gave me a red-pepper pod." "What was that for?" "Wait a little you shall know. Of all things, pep- pers and onions are appreciated by the poor in winter, 10 THREE MEALS FOR A DIME. because they help to keep them warm. "With my meal I made three dumplings, and these, with the pork and the pepper-pod, I put into the pot with the beans and plenty of water (for the pork was salt), and boiled the whole two hours; and then we had breakfast, for it was time for the children to go to school. We ate one of the dumplings, and each had a plate of the soup for breakfast, and a very good breakfast it was. " I kept the pot boiling as long as my coke lasted, and at dinner we ate half the meat, half the soup, and one of the dumplings. We had the same allowance for supper; and the children were better satisfied than I have some- times seen them when our food has cost five times as much. The next da} 7 we had another Dime it was all I could earn for all I could get to do two pairs of men's drawers each day, at five cents a pair and on that we lived lived well. We had a change, too, for instead of the corn meal and beans I got four cents' worth of oat- meal and one cent's worth of potatoes small potatoes, because I could get more of them. I washed them clean, so as not to waste any thing by paring, and cut them up and boiled them all to pieces with the meat and meal." "Which went furthest?" "I can't say. We ate it all each day, and didn't feel the want of more, though the children said : ' Ma. don't you wish we had a piece of bread-and-butter, to finish off with?' It would have been good, to be sure; but, bless me ! what would a Dime's worth of bread-and-butter be for my family ? But I had another change next day." "What, for another Dime?" "Yes; that was all we had, day after day. We had to live on it. It was very hard, to be sure ; but it has taught me something." "What is that?" "That poor folks could live a great deal cheaper and better than they do. if they only knew how to economize A LESSON WORTH A DIME. 11 their food. You have told them how, but they are slow to learn, or loth to change from foolish old practices." " What was your next change ?" " Oh, yes, I was about to tell you that. Well, I went to the butcher's the night before, and bought five cents' worth of little scrap pieces of lean beef, and I declare I think I got as much as a pound, and this I cut up into bits, and soaked over night an all-important process for soup or a stew cooking it in the same water. Then I bought two cents' worth of potatoes and one cent's worth of meal that made the eight cents; two had to go for fuel every day, and the paper I got my purchases in served for kindling. The meal I wet up into stiff dough, and worked out into little round balls, about as big as grapes, aod the potatoes I cut up into slices, and all to- gether made a stew, or chowder, seasoned with a small onion and part of a pepper-pod that I got with the pota- toes. It was very good, but it did not go quite so far as the soup either day, or else the fresh meat tasted so good that we wanted to eat more. But I can tell you, small as it may seeui to you, there is a great deal of good eat- ing in one Dime." So there is what a pity everybody don't know it ! What & world of good might be done with a Dime ! Reader, have you got a Dime that is, to spare only one Dime? Give it to that poor widow. Give it? No ; you owe it. She has given you twice its value, whether you are one that will feast to-day on a dollar, or be stinted witli a Dime. She has taught you what you never knew before the vaiue of one Dime. What a pity so many should be thrown away ! What a pity we could not teach this lesson of economy in food to the thousands who will suffer before spring for the dimes wasted, through ignorance, when dimes were plenty ! Knowing how to use a Dime might often save a family from suffering from beggary~from degradation. 'Tis a small coin it will buy five copies of this paper. What 12 PROFITING BY THE LESSON. if you invest it here, and give this article to those who would profit by learning how they can live, and satisfy the hunger of five persons all day for ONE DIME. Yes, it is a small coin, but it will buy this book. What if you invest it, and give the book to some one who will profit by its lessons. Some have already. Here is one. He says : The article on the Dime, in yesterday's paper, is worth much more than one Dime to me ; and therefore I heartily send you the one Dime therein called for; not as for a weekly, but a daily subscriber. Do ask all your daily subscribers to do the same. I would send more, but, sir, / am poor ; not imaginarity so, but in reality, as far as cents are concerned ; and yet, sir, I must pay two cents every day for your paper, for it saves me more than it costs per day, of cash in my family expenses ; and besides, it is making me rich in knowledge into the bargain. This I consider clear gain. Give this Dime to the family mentioned yesterday, and may God incline the hearts of all who read it to send at least ONE DIME. December 8, 1855. So hope we all, but that it will be of the dimes saved ; so that all who give will feel just as the writer of the next letter does ; that they owe it, and it is only paying a debt. Hear what he says : I feel that I owe that poor widow ten climes for what she has taught me about economy in living. As far as the matter of providing daily food for herself and family is concerned, she is probably independent ; but she wants to properly clothe and educate those four dear little ones. Please hand her the inclosed. I have never yet been driven to the alternative of limiting myself and family to one solitary Dime a day ; but do not know how soon such may be the case, when our legislators are doing so much to strangle the energies of our industrial population. From a lover of the Tribune, and its purposes to do good to the poor. Now this is all pleasant evidence that this article upon economy in food is doing its mission. But I must tell the writer that I did not do with his dollar as he bid me. I did not give it to that poor woman. Before I could see her, another came one I knew one who did live neat and respectable, and respected by all who knew her, as wife or widow of an honest, hard-work- ing city carpenter; who dying, as we all must, left her, at thirty-eight years old, with five children under fifteen. 1'HE TWO DIME LOAVES. 13 What a task a living death I Dying that they might live. "With feeble health a toil-worn and torn consti- tution her children sickly sick for want of accus- tomed food and comforts that came with the father's daily wages, and were daily spent, so that when death came, and custom fashion, with its inexorable law demanded a costly coffin and an expensive "last home" in consecrated ground for the dead, there was no living left for the living no home and food and fire for a family of whom it had been said, " How well they live !" Yes, they lived well, as the word goes they did not live by the laws of economy. It was a lesson never taught in their school. It was a need they had never needed. They need it now. Now, when a Dime is more than a dollar then. Now, when for one whole week, for that feeble, tender-reared American woman and for four hungry children, who never, till their father's death, knew the want of a full meal; they have known it often since for a whole week, the only food that entered the widow's desolate home, was two dimes' worth of dear baker's bread. The only fire was made of two pecks of coal. For food and fuel for five persons, not five, but seven days, three dimes and a half was all they had, and that was not eco- nomically expended, as was the Dime of which you read, because the woman did not understand the art ; and it was no time to learn it, and her children starving the while. Just as well might you tell the drowning man to hold on, and you would read him a dissertation upon the art of swimming. Just as well might you tell the hun- gry dog that the bone he stole, to him was useless, be- cause he knew not the art of making soup. Three dimes and a half a week for a whole family ! That is not the art of economy it is the art of starving to death without dying. It might sustain a family in the woods of Ken- tucky, where fuel is worthless, and corn but a Dime a bushel, as I have often seen it sold. It is dearer now 14 THE COST OF DRINK. very much dearer here and no teaching of economy can tell a woman how to live upon so little. It was to this woman that I gave the man's ten dimes. I gave her, too, what another "friend of the poor" had sent me some clothes and shoes for her children ; for of the latter they had none, and of the former, only the garb that makes them feel they are but beggars. Yet they are not they are true-born American children. Perhaps, children of parents that did not practice econ- omy, and did not lay up a store out of dimes wasted. Yet these should not be left to waste. It is poor econo- my to waste good flesh and blood hands, heads, hearts, souls of our fellow-creatures. Yet without the economy of saving such from waste, to worse than waste they must go. Economy in food would save all from want. Economy in clothes would clothe all the destitute. Economy in drink would make all rich, for that is all waste. There are six thousand drinking places in New York city. At many of these, every drink is a Dime. One hundred dimes a day for the average sales is within the limits of truth. SIXTY THOUSAND DOLLARS! The amount drank at private tables is as much more. The loss of time and property, counting all the lives that rum has slain, is sixty thousand more, among our six hundred thousand people, every day. Work out the sum ; see how much it is per week per month per year and then tell me if economy in drink would not make all rich, or, at least, leave none in want of bread. It would make a fund to feed the poor. A Dime for a cigar! What of it? Simply that it is not economy. Whether a dime or a mill, it is, in a year, ten millions of dimes wasted. Go count the stores on Broadway that sell cigars only, and see how many that pay a thousand dollars ten thou- sand dimes a year for rent alone ! THE WASTE OF SMOKING. 15 Then count in one walk from the Battery to Union Square, how many men men ! boys bipeds things with hair and legs, that are burning out life and cigars at the same time, and you will readily believe that there is in this city one hundred thousand men if men they be who burn up a Dime a day in tobacco. How much is that a year ? Three hundred and sixty- five thousand dimes thirty-six thousand five hundred dollars ! How many poor women and children that would feed, and clothe, and send to school, to church, and into the ways of life, and hope, and happiness, to be men and women, and not pining slaves of want, living upon a Dime a day ! How many lessons of economy would all these wasted dimes teach ! They teach us one great lesson now. It is this : it is not economy to smoke. And perchance some of those who will puff the fetid odor of their bad breath and tobacco in your face while you read of this great waste of dimes, will laugh at your study and practice of economy in living, and die and leave their families to live, as best they may, upon a Dime a day. So here let us give them another lesson in economy the economy of making afire not at the end of a cigar, for in that there is no economy, however made; yet in that economy might be practiced but in making a fire in the family stove, range, or grate, where anthracite coal is used. Coal will not ignite without being first heated to a red heat with wood Wood is costly. A load a city load of pine wood costs about two and three-fourth dollars. It is called a third of a cord. It is hardly an honest fourth. It is two cents a pound. It is usually cut by the sawyer three times. It should be cut six. It never should be cut by hand. That is not economy. It is cut six times by machine for'the same price of three by hand, and it is split finer and better, without additional cost, by an axe driven, like the saw, by steam. 16 ECONOMY IN MAKING A FIRE. It is no longer economy to buy wood by the load, and have it cut and split upon the pavement before your door, for two reasons : it costs more, and burns more. It never will be split tine enough. The finer the better, if part of it be mere splinters. Then a small piece of paper and a match will serve to kindle. Put the wood all in a close bunch in the middle of the grate, with a small quantity of small pieces of coal over it. When these are heated, add more, a little at a time, until all is hot, and you will have a good fire. Economy in kindling a fire will save one half the cost of wood. Enough may be saved in every family in kindling wood alone to give a peck of coal to some needy one every day. 'Tis a small bunch of wood that costs a Dime. I have sometimes seen it used to kindle one fire ; and often seen the grate tilled heaping full of coal that had to be all removed after the paper and wood had burned out, be- cause the builder had never studied the art and economy of kindling a fire. Xever, whether rich or poor, suffer your cinders or unburned bits of coal to be wasted in the ash barrel. Measure for measure, they are worth more than coal. Save them, soak them, try them. Water renovates the coke, and wet cinders, upon a hot coal fire, will make it hotter, and keep it so longer than fresh coal. Saving cinders is not meanness, it is economy. To learn how to kindle a fire, is learning a useful les- son for life. It is a useful study of economy. Remem- ber its teachings, for the time may come when it will be worth to you more than a Dime. Let me repeat, while you listen : in short, have your kindling wood short, and all in a close pile over your crumpled paper. If it is set up like a stack, all the bet- ter to ignite. Put on small coal in small quantities till your fire burns bright ; then add wet cinders, and then you will save a Dime a day. No young gent or lady should ever be allowed a ECONOMY IN FOOD WHAT SHALL WE EAT? 17 servant to kindle a fire in their own room. It is bad econ- omy. General Washington always kindled his own fire. Are you better than him \ Besides the economy and ad- vantage of learning the art of making a fire in your room, there is in the practice a positive economy of health. Now I will give you another article from the Tribune, entitled ECONOIY IN FOOD-WHAT SHALL WE EAT? (Published 2*wew.ler 14, 1855.) With the present prices of rent, fuel, meat, bread, flour, meal, sugar, potatoes, and other staple articles of supply for a family in New York, it only requires but a slight insight into the condition of all the laboring class to see that the cry frequently raised for an increase of wages is only the disguised cry of the hungry for food. Daily wages are daily consumed ; and often the only means of support for a week is the weekly credit . of the butcher, baker, and grocer. This is never given except at an in- creased profit, and a little too often at a profit obtained by palpable swindling in light weights and measures, of which the victims dare not complain, for fear of losing the " accommodation," as the credit is called. While work lasts the laborer can live ; when it fails, he has nothing in store to fall back upon. Whoever, then, will make known to this class how to economize in their food, so as to increase the supply without an increase of ex- penditure, will be doing them a greater benefit than he would in a life-long harangue on politics, either Hard Shell, Soft Shell, or no shell. We need not repeat here how hard it is for those de- pendent upon daily employment to furnish their families with suitable food, at a time when, from sickness or other cause, they are not in receipt of wages. 18 ECONOMY IN FOOD WHAT SHALL WE EAT? Too often, at such times, there is deep suffering ; and last Winter there was actual starvation. "Will it be any better this Winter, now so rapidly ap- proaching that it sends a shudder through many a fam- ily circle who remember what scenes they passed through last January, February, and March? There has been, there is now, there will be much suf- fering for food in this city, notwithstanding our receipts of tens of thousands weekly of butchers' animals, and our millions of bushels of corn, and wheaf, and rye, and oats, and barley, and buckwheat, and beans, and peas, and rice, for breadstuff's, and daily ship-loads of potatoes of both kinds, and untold piles of other edible roots and vegetables, and. great storehouses full of flour,, butter, cheese, fish, fruit, eggs, poultry, and salted meats, and a thousand unnamed articles of food ; yet the mass are not full fed, and why? Because they do not know how to eat. ]STot that they lack the animal function of consum- ing ; but in providing, both in the purchase of kind and quality, and in the preparation there is a lamentable want of judgment, and utter want of economy. The want of food among the poor is a great evil. It breeds discon- tent, dissipation, crime and ruin to any civilized society, There is a remedy. It would be greater charity to teach that remedy than to establish soup-houses. The first step would be to change our fashion of food ; to abandon such articles as are excessively dear in the raw state, for others equally good and more nutritious, and to adopt a different and more rational plan of cook- ing. This would not only promote economy, but health ; both of which would add vastly to our stock of enjoyment. Without exception, both rich and poor in America eat extravagantly of animal food, cooked in the most extrav- agant and wasteful manner ; by frying, baking, roasting, or boiling, and throwing away half of the nutritious mat- ter in burnt gravy, or gelatine dissolved in the pot liquor. ECONOMY IN FOOD-WHAT SHALL WE EAT? 19 Again, we consume vast quantities of the meanest and most innutritions vegetables, costly at first, and cooked in the most foolishly wasteful manner. The fashion of extravagance in living is set by the rich, and they are aped in their folly by the poor. The consequence is, that there are want and suffering whenever work and wages fail. There is a remedy. The only question is, how it shall be applied ? Better than charity would be organizations, not to provide food for the poor, but to teach them what to buy, and how to use it ; how to economize their money. The very first step toward this blessed state of things should be taken by our city government, if indeed we have such a thing left to us, by removing all restrictions upon the producer, by which he is kept away from the consumer. We pay now an average of thirty-three per cent, advance upon every thing that is eaten in New York, over and above what we should pay if these re- strictions were removed. Let every one who has bought a head of cabbage this fall, think what he paid. Six, ten, or twelve cents each, while the producer has not received an average of two cents each. The turnip eaters are paying every day at the rate of one to two dollars a bushel. The producer is receiving an average of less than twenty cents. We pay for many things in the same proportion, owing to our ab- surd and wicked market regulations. The producer is kept away from the consumer. He is not permitted to come into the city and enjoy the advan- tages of "free trade" in his own produce. Why? The city fathers say that we have no room nowhere for him to stand his wagon, where the poor man or the poor w r oman may come with her market basket upon her arm, and get it filled at first prices. Under the present market regulations, all the country wagons are huddled into the cramped space around Washington Market, where none but stout men, or a class of market bullies can get to them ; for, in addition 20 ECONOMY IN BUYING MEAT. to the crowding, the wagons are driven out at seven o'clock in the morning. The city fathers say they can not amend this error, because they have nowhere else to put the wagons. We can help them. We will point out a place, and let the recommendation be adopted, and it will cheapen family marketing in this city to a very large class of con- sumers, full twenty-five per cent. Pass an ordinance at once, making Canal Street, through all the new widened part, from Centre Street to the East River, a market-place for country wagons ; and there let them stand and sell their stuff from sunrise till ten o'clock, at retail, with no privilege, until after that hour, of selling at wholesale, or leaving the stand, unless their load is all sold out. This is a measure of relief to the poor, easily brought about ; one that would produce real economy in food. Our city makes paupers, first by thwarting the laborer in his facilities to get cheap food, and then by the soup- house system of feeding those who are unable, through misfortune, to obtain a supply. But this is foreign to our main subject economy in kind and quality of food for the industrious poor. They do not study economy in their purchases. All kinds of fresh meat cost from ten to twenty cents a pound, and very few Americans are willing to take low price meats ; and generally those who can least afford it, call for a rib roast, or a loin steak of beef, or a leg of lamb or mutton, or a loin of veal or pork ; and rarely for the most economical pieces. A rib roast of six pounds for a dol- lar, in a poor man's family, is slightly extravagant ; the cooking more so. The Jews' religion in eating meat is founded on true economy. They eat only the fore quar- ters, and sell the more expensive, and less valuable hind quarters, to the Gentiles. The fore quarter will not cut steaks and roasts equal to the hind quarter, but it is more economical for soups, stews, pot-pies, or cooking in any form with vegetables and gravy. The man or woman THE PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 21 with scanty means, to fill the market basket, not only buys dear meats, but crude, innutritions vegetables, such as cabbage, turnips, and potatoes ; for, notwithstanding so many persons think potatoes a necessary article of food, they are not an economical one ; and all the cruder substances of vegetable food, though necessary and healthful, should not be sought after because cheap, to save money. The most economical mode of preparing food is a due mixture of meat and vegetable substance in the form of soups ; but no man should live upon soup alone, any more than he should upon meat or fine flour bread. Health, as well as appetite, requires variety. It happens, now, that breadstuffs, notwithstanding the high price of bread and flour, are the cheapest of all human food ; and it also happens that by our slavery of fashion we do not use the cheapest kinds of this kind of cheap food. The following are the retail prices of some of the prin- cipal articles of food in New York, Oct., 1855 : Flour per bbl $1200 per lb., 6^c. Sago " " 8to9c. Farina . Bread. . Corn meal per cwt 2 75 to $3 00 Buckwheat meal, per cwt 3 00 to $3 50 Barley meal per cwt 3 00 Oatmeal per cwt 4 00 to $4 50 Rye flour per bbl 7 00 Hominy per cwt 4 00 Cracked wheat per cwt 5 50 Split peas per bushel 2 25 Whole peas per bushel 2 50 White beans per bushel 2 00 Dried sweet corn per bushel 4 50 Rice per cvrt 5 00 12 to 15c. 6|c. 3c. 3J to 4c. 3 HO 4c. 5 to 64c. 4 to 4|c. 5c. 6c. 4ic. 5c. 4ito5c. 10 to 12i 6to7c Potatoes per bbl., $1 50 to f 1 75 ; per bushel, 75 cents ; per lb., Macaroni and vermicelli, 11 to 12 cents per lb. Sugar, 8 to 1 1 cents per lb. Butter, per lb., averages 28 cents. Cheese, 12 to 14 cents Apples, per bbl., $2 to $3 50 ; per bushel, $1 average 22 ANALYSIS OF FOOD. All kinds of meat, salt and fresh, and all sorts of fish, will average 12i cents a pound to the buyer of small quantities. Eggs are worth 25 cents per dozen, which is about 18 cents per Ib. A dozen eggs, average size, will weigh one pound six ounces. Turnips, per bushel, '25 cents; carrots, 50 cents; beets, 50 cents ; onions, 75 cents ; cabbage, about 2 cents a pound. Dried fruits, per Ib. Apples, 7 to 8 cents ; pears, 15 to 20 cents ; plums, 8 to 14 cents ; cherries, 15 to 20 cents ; peaches, 15 to 18 cents ; raisins, 8 cents. The following is the proportion of nutritions matter and water in each of the following substances : Lbs. Substances. Lbs. nut. mat. Lbs. -water. 100 Wheatflour .................. 90 ................ 10 100 Cornmeal ................... 91 ................ 9 100 Rice ........................ 86 ................ 14 100 Barley meal ................. 88 ................ 12 100 Ryeflour .................... 79 ................ 21 100 Oatmeal ..................... 75 ....... . ........ 25 100 Potatoes ..................... 22. ............... 77J 100 White beans ................. 95 ................ 5 100 Carrots ...................... 10 ................ 90 100 Turnips ..................... 4^ ................ 95fc 100 Cabbage ..................... 1\ ................ 92 100 Beets ....................... 15 ....... ........ 85 100 Strawberries ................. 10 ................ 90 100 Pears ....................... 16 ................ 84 100 Apples ...................... 16 ................ 84 100 Cherries ..................... 25 ................ 75 100 Plums ....................... 29 ................ 71 100 Apricots ..................... 26 ................ 74 100 Peaches ..................... 20 ................ 80 100 Grapes ...................... 27 ................ 73 100 Melons ...................... 3 ................ 97 100 Cucumbers ................... 1\ ................ 97i Meats, generally, are about three fourths water, and milk, as it comes from the cow, over ninety per cent. How is it as it comes from the milkmen ? It is true that this chemical analysis does not give us the exact comparative value of food, but with that, and the prices of the various articles, it can not be a hard matter to determine what is the cheapest or most eco- nomical kind of food for us to use. Perhaps of all the articles named, taking into account ECONOMICAL BREADSTUFFS. 23 the price and nutritious qualities, oatmeal will give the greatest amount of nutriment for the least money. But where \vill you find it in use ? Not one family in a thou- sand ever saw the article ; not one in a hundred ever heard of it, and many who have heard of it have a vague impression that none but starving Scotch or Irish ever used it ; and, in short, that oats, in America, are only fit food for pig's and horses. It is a great mistake. Oatmeal is excellent in por- ridge, and all sorts of cooking of that sort, and oatmeal cakes are sweet, nutritious, and an antidote for dyspep- sia. Just now, we believe oats are the cheapest of any grain in market, and it is a settled fact that oats give the greatest amount of power of any grain consumed by man or beast. This cheap food only needs to be fashionable, to be extremely popular among all laborers, all of whom, to say nothing of other classes, eat too much fine flour bread. Cracked wheat and loaf bread cost the same price, or perhaps a less price for the wheat by the pound. A pound of the wheat, properly cooked, is worth more than four loaves of bread. Hominy, samp, hulled corn, we have so often recom- mended and urged upon the attention of all, both rich and poor, as cheap, wholesome, nutritious food, that we have induced many to try it, who would not give it up now under any consideration. We reiterate all that we have ever said in its favor. Thirty years' experience in its use only serves to confirm us in the opinion that it is such excellent and economical food, that too much can not be said in its favor. The only thing necessary in its cooking, is to cook it enough it can not be cooked too much. Every family should eat beans and peas, because of all articles they afford the most nutriment for the least money. One pound of cheap meat, say at ten cents, and one 2 24 OLD-FASHIONED DISHES. pound of split peas, say five cents, will give a fuller din- ner to a family than a dollar expended for beefsteak and white bread. This is a kind of economy that should be known, and rigidly practiced. One bushel of white beans will feed more laboring men than eight bushels of potatoes. The beans will cost two dollars, the potatoes six. A single quart of beans costs nine cents ; a half-pound of salt pork, six cents ; a pound of hominy, five cents ; and that will give a meal to a larger family than a dol- lar's worth of roast beef, white bread, potatoes, and other vegetables. We would not confine the laborer or the poorest fam- ily to this cheap food ; but we do insist that it is their duty to substitute such food, occasionally, in place of that which is more expensive, and thus, by saving, lay up a few dollars in the savings bank to save themselves from the mere life-saving contrivance, the soup-house. We hope never to see another of these pauper-making establishments in operation again in this city. Let men think twice before they open another one. But let every one think of the economy of making a soup-house at home. We spoke of pea-soup. Is there any living witness of that good old Yankee dish of cheap food, called bean porridge? Let it be revived in every family among the rich as a luxury, and among the poor as an article of economy. There is another Yankee dish besides bean soup and baked beans that we should like to see revived, and that is the baked Indian-meal pudding ; and this brings us to Indian bread, a mixture of two thirds corn meal and one third rye meal, not rye flour, which makes most delicious bread at less than one half the cost of wheat flour. We could go on a long time pointing out the errors of living, in which economy is lost sight of, if we thought the wished-for effect would be produced. We urge all to think of what we have said, and that one of the best EVILS OF FAMINE HOMINY. 25 things that can be done for the poor is to teach them practical economy in every-day life. No charitable societies have ever done so much good to the poor by a distribution of food as they could do by printing and putting into the hands of every family a little tract containing practical lessons of economy in the art of living well and living cheap an art that would prevent the waste of food, and lessen the expense of first purchases, and increase the nutritious qualities, while it added immensely to the table enjoyment of every family. In a great majority of cases it may be set down as an incontrovertible fact that want comes of waste, and waste comes of want of knowledge of the properties of different articles of food, and how to combine them so as to pro- duce the most beneficial effect. It may be set down as another incontrovertible fact, that no class of people can want food and remain virtu- ous. Their degeneracy, both physically and morally, is certain. It is our religious duty, then, to study and teach economy in food, and the art of living better and cheap- er ; more in accordance with the principles that promote health, vigor, intellectual capacity, comfort, happiness, and morality of the human family. How much good would come of it if we should prac- tice upon the text that forms the title of this article ! Let those who read and think first set the example ; the unthinking will follow, and their children will rise up and call them blessed. I think that I can afford to devote one chapter to a dissertation upon I HOMINY. Hominy we have before given our opinion upon. It is an article that no family, desirous of practicing economy, can do without. It is a very cheap, healthy, nutritious 26 HOMINY- HOW TO COOK IT. food. It usually costs only half the price per pound of flour, and contains no moisture, while the best of flour holds from twelve to sixteen pounds of water in a barrel. I have known potatoes, hominy, and white beans to be all sold at the same price, $2 50 a bushel, and rice but a little dearer. If a man can afford to eat fried gold for break- fast, boiled bank-notes for dinner, and roasted dollars for supper, he can afford to eat potatoes cooked in the same way, and not otherwise, at such high prices. In point of economy as human food, one bushel of beans or hom- iny is equal to ten of potatoes. It is surprising how little is known of this nutritious, healthy food ; and what an excellent substitute it is for potatoes during the continuation of the disease among them, which renders some that are fair to the eye unfit for food, and all exceedingly dear, even at the present rate of about one dollar and a half a bushel as an average cost to the consumer in New York, in December, 1855. Hominy, too, is a dish almost as universally liked as potatoes, and at the South it is more freely eaten ; while at the North it is seldom seen. In fact, it is an unknown food except to a few persons in cities. By hominy, we do not mean a sort of coarse meal, but grains of white corn from which the hull and chit, or eye, has been re- moved by moistening and pounding in a wooden mortar, or patent hulling machine, leaving the grains almost whole, and composed of little else but starch. It has often been said, not one cook in ten knows how to boil a potato. We may add another cipher when speaking of the very simple process of cooking hominy. We give the formula from our own experience, and from instructions received in a land where " hog and hominy" are well understood. Wash slightly in cold water, and soak twelve hours in tepid, soft water, then boil slowly from three to six hours in same water, with plenty more added from time to time with great care to prevent burning. Dorft salt while cooking, as that or hard water will harden HOMINY SIX WAYS TO COOK IT. the corn ; so it will peas or beans, green or dry, and rice also. "When done, add butter and salt ; or a better way is to let each one season to suit the taste. It may be eaten with meat in lieu of vegetables, or with sngar or syrup. It is good, hot or cold, and the more frequently it is warmed over, it is like the old-fashioned pot of " Bean porridge hot, or bean porridge cold, Bean porridge best at nine days old." So is hominy ; it is good always, and very wholesome, and, like tomatoes, only requires to be eaten once or twice to fix the taste in its favor. In this city this article is called samp, and the name hominy is given to corn cracked in a mill, and winnowed and sifted, and numbered according to its fineness. It is cheap, healthy food. I have thought proper to add a few of the ways in which hominy may be used. HOMINY BREAKFAST CAKES. Mash the cold hominy with a rolling-pin, and add a little flour-and-milk batter, so as to make the whole thick enough to form into little cakes in the hand, or it may be put upon the griddle with a spoon. Bake brown, eat hot, and declare you never ate any thing better of the batter-cake kind. HOMINY AND MILK, hot or cold, is as much better than mush-and-milk as that is better than rye-meal porridge. HOMINY PUDDING. Prepare as for batter cakes, add one egg to each pint, some whole cinnamon, sugar to suit the taste, and a few raisins, and bake like rice pudding. A little butter or chopped suet may be added. Serve hot or cold, with or without sauce. HOMINY SALAD. To a pint of cold hominy add a small onion, a quarter of a boiled chicken, or about the same quantity of lobster, chopped fine, to which some add a small pickle. To be dressed with sweet oil, mustard, pepper, and vinegar. It is a very good substitute for green salads at seasons when the latter can not be ob- tained. 28 WORKIXGMEX'S DAILY RATIONS. HOMINY AND BKANS. Mix equal parts of cold baked beans and hominy together, and heat up, and you will have an excellent dish. HOMINY BEATING. We presume we have heard of a still evening, while floating in our skiff down the Ohio River, in days " Long, long ago," a hundred hominy mortars in operation, as this is or was a common occupation of the negroes' evenings, beating their iavorite food. Of late years, throughout the South, the ground hom- iny, or cracked corn, has in a great measure driven the old hominy mortar out of use. This is cooked in the same way, by soaking and boiling, until it becomes gelat- inous, and then, when cold, if cut in slices and fried in a little fat, will often be eaten in preference to any other bread. At the South, negroes prefer corn meal to wheat flour, pound for pound. It is ground very coarse, and frequently eaten, hulls and all, in preference to sifting. The full allowance for a laboring man or woman one that toils all the hours of daylight in the field, is a peck and a half of corn meal and three and a half pounds of fat bacon. In the cotton States the average price of the corn is about seventy-five cents a bushel, and the price of bacon eight cents a pound. This would make the week's rations cost fifty-six cents a week. At still higher rates, it would not be a Dime a day ; in many places, not half that. In many places, though, the negroes do not get half the above rations. In this city a peck and a half of meal and three and a half pounds of bacon would average a cost of ninety cents. Few would be willing to live upon that alone. It would not be good economy to do so. It would be good economy for us all to use more Indian corn meal. I offer to those who will try the economy as CORN BREAD AND CHILDREN'S FOOD. 29 well as palatableness of a loaf of wheat and Indian bread, the following good receipt : To two quarts of Indian meal add boiling water enough to wet the same ; when sufficiently cooled, add one tea- spoonful of salt, half a pint of yeast, one teaspoonful of saleratus, one half teapcupful of molasses, and flour enough to form it into a loaf (it should not be kneaded hard) ; when light, bake two hours in a well-heated oven. (It should be baked until brown.) All corn bread should be cooked a long time. The negroes often bury the dough in the hot embers all night. Economy in cooking is as much required as economy in purchasing the food. Domestic happiness is greatly dependent upon the manner in which the cooking department of the house- hold is managed, whether by the mistress or a hireling. A cook who can make a good loaf of bread, boil a po- tato aright, or broil a mutton-chop properly, is one of a thousand, and perhaps she would not know how to make a pot of mush, because it is so seldom made, where its use would promote both health and economy. Despising household duties is one of the sins of Ameri- can women. A woman need not be a drudge, or slave to care, but still be the director of all the household affairs. The woman, whatever her position and wealth, who at. tends to her own housekeeping affairs, reaps her reward in improved health and freedom from lassitude, which she suffers through neglect of exercise. Many a mother has unwittingly pampered her chil- dren s' appetites till she has created disease, and inbred into their natures profligacy and selfishness. If the economy of food was understood, it would save many errors. Nothing that is unwholesome for children should be ever set before them. How many doctors' bills are made by inattention to diet ! This is poor economy. So it is to despise any of the WHAT SHALL WE EAT? little matters about household expenses, that would save the expenditure of money. Look how much you could save in a year, or decade of years, by this simple receipt for making FIRE KINDLERS. Melt three pounds of resin in a quart of tar, and stir in as much sawdust and pulverized charcoal as you can, and then spread the mass upon a board till cool, and then break it into lumps as big as your thumb. You can light it with a match, and it will light a fire, for it burns with a strong blaze. It is economical of time and money. It may cost three shillings, and save ten shillings' worth of wood. WHAT SHALL WE EAT? is one of the most frequent and most unanswerable ques- tions in the human family. With a hard winter every winter is hard for the poor before us with the cold winds of this dreary month of December peering into every crack of our houses with labor scarce and wages low, particularly to every woman who depends upon the work of her fingers for food with a large population out of employment with suffering staring all in the face who depend upon daily wages, and make no daily provision for a day of trouble with the price of food, and fuel, and rent as high as it is in this city, it behooves every one to inquire : What shall we eat? When wages are two dollars a day, the laboring man may eat roast beef and plum pudding ; but if he does so often he knows little of economy. We can not cheapen food, but we can eat cheaper food ; and whatever will tend to teach those who look long at a Dime before they spend it. what to buy, will be to them a blessing. Whatever I can show them what to eat, less expensive than their accustomed diet, should be at once RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. 31 adopted. Although I may repeat something said before in these pages, I shall make the following suggestions upon this page: Fresh meat of all kinds, at the prices at which butchers retail it, is not economical food. Meats will average over a shilling a pound. Salted meats are cheaper than fresh. In economizing food, meat should never be fried or boiled. If you would get the most substance out of fresh meat, make it into soup, or stew, or pot-pie. In making soup, soak your meat some hours in cold water, and boil it in the same. Thicken with beans, peas, rice, barley, hom- iny, or broken bread. The best meat is the most eco- nomical for soup. Do not buy bones. If you boil meat to eat, never put it in cold water. Let it be boiling when you put the meat in the pot. Do not buy fresh meat a pound or two at a time. Buy a quarter or half a sheep. You get it at half price. Beef or pork by the quarter is a quarter cheaper. True, the woman with the Dime can not partake of this advantage. Many families can that do not. Many could unite, one with another, and buy at wholesale rates. It is a kind of economy, worth more than a Dime. Look at the " flour leagues" that have been formed in the East- ern States, by which families have obtained their flour one or two dollars cheaper in a barrel. So the man who studies economy may save a dime here, a dollar there, which at last will amount to an eagle. A dollar saved upon a barrel of flour is equal to a gift of sixteen loaves of bakers' bread. But, I repeat, do not buy your bread ready baked. It is sixpence a pound. Dry flour is the same price. Home-made bread is far more nutritious. RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. Here is a good receipt for making this cheap, wholesome bread. Stir and mix most thoroughly two quarts of Indian corn meal with a tablespoonful of salt and a quart of boiling water, or enough to wet every grain of meaL THE VALUE OF OATMEAL. When the mush cools to milk-warm, stir in one quart of rye meal, and a teacupful of good yeast, which you will first mix with half a pint of warm water, so that the yeast will be more evenly diffused. With the rye meal add water enough to make the mass a stiff dough, but not as hard or tough as flour. It must be kneaded with the hands. [Remember rye meal is not rye flour. It is the product of the whole grain.] Put the dough in a pan, and pat it smooth with a wet hand. It will rise in an hour, in a warm place, enough to bake, and should be put in a hot oven, and remain three hours ; or, if all night, all the better. We should make greater use of home-made bread, and then we should escape the deleterious adulterations of the baker, not half of which have I mentioned. Every family, whether rich or poor, or in town or country, should make it a religious duty to make use of more corn meal, oatmeal, Graham flour, hominy, and crack- ed wheat for bread, in preference to fine wheat flour, both for health and economy. Look at the relative retail pri- ces per pound of these articles on page 23, and see which will give the most nutriment for the least money ; not which will afford you the most fashionable bread. If white fine flour was not fashionable, or if people did not think that brown bread has a look of poverty, we should have the brown bread upon every table, for it is not only more economical, it is more nutritious and more healthy, particularly for children. We do not eat oatmeal in this country to any extent, and yet it is the most nutritious breadstuff ever used by man. Look at the Scotch with their oatmeal porridge as robust a set of men as ever lived. A Highlander will scale mountains all da}' upon a diet of oatmeal stirred in water fresh from a gurgling spring with his finger, in a leather cup. Another excellent, though little used breadstuff, particularly for the sedentary, or persons of costive habits, is cracked wheat, or wheaten THE VALUE OF GRAHAM FLOUR. 83 grits, as the article is called. That and Graham flour should be used in preference, at the same price per pound, to white flour, because more healthy and more nutritious. One hundred pounds of Graham flour is worth full as much in a family as one hundred and thirty-three pounds of superfine white flour. Corn meal usually costs less than half the price of flour. It is worth twice as much. It is not so economical in summer, because it takes so much fire to cook it. The first great error in preparing corn meal is in grinding it too much, and next in not cooking it enough. Corn-meal mush should boil two hours ; it is better if boiled four, and not fit to eat if boiled less than one hour. Buckwheat flour should never be purchased by a family who are obliged to economize food. It is dear at any price, because it must be floated in dear butter to be eaten, and then it is not healthy. Oatmeal makes as good cakes as buckwheat, and far more nutritious. But it is more nutritious, and is particularly healthy for children, in the form of porridge. PORK AND BEANS. Perhaps I run the risk of ridicule by reiterating here, what I have so often asserted, that white beans, at the ordinary prices, in most places, if not all, are the cheapest, because the most nutritious of all vegetables. Beans enter very largely into the diet of the inhabitants of some countries. This is particularly the case in Mexico. Baked beans, with salt pork, used to be one of the most common dishes in New England. I have read somewhere that Professor Liebig has stated that pork and beans form a compound of substances pe- culiarly adapted to furnish all that is necessary to sup- port life, and give bone, muscle, and fat, in proper pro* portions, to a man. This food will enable one to perform more labor, at "less cost, than any other substance. A quart of beans, eight cents, half a pound of pork, six cents, will feed a large family for a day, with good strengthening food. BEAN PORRIDGE is another of the old-fashion dishes of 2* 34 WHAT WE MAY EAT. New England. We should call it bean soup now. Four quarts of beans and two pounds of corned beef, "boiled to rags" in fifty quarts of water, would give a good meal to fifty men one cent a meal. POTATOES NOT CHKAP FOOD. Potatoes should be utterly abandoned by the poor, when a dollar or more is the sell- ing price. They can not afford to eat them. Potatoes are selling at wholesale, for an average of two dollars a barrel, which is eighty-seven and a half cents a bushel. At retail, the poor pay two dollars a bushel, or about four cents a pound, which is about as much as corn meal ; more than half as much as fine flour ; nearly as much a bushel as beans, while one bushel of the latter are worth, for food, as much as a cart-load of potatoes. All other vegetables are still more uneconomical than potatoes. Carrots are the cheapest of all roots. But they are but little used as human food, though very nutritious. They are good, simple boiled, and eaten with a little butter or meat gravy. They should always form an ingredient of soup. They are sold by the quantity, at fifty cents a bushel. Turnips are dear at any price. There is more nutriment in a quart of carrots than in a bushel of tur- nips. They are eighty-two per cent, water. Cabbage is nutritious, but very expensive. Buy very little of it. if your money is short. Dried sweet corn is an article that all persons are fond of. It sells for four dollars to five dollars a bushel, which weighs forty-two pounds, and would retail at about ten cents a pound. We don't know about the economy of eating it, as compared with other breadstuff's, but as compared with coarse vegetables it is immeasurably cheaper. A pound of sweet corn cooked to be eaten with meat, is worth more than three pounds of extra meat. It is also very excellent and nutritious mixed in the bean soup. Another very excellent, nutritious, economical article of food is dried peas. They are generally a little more costly than beans, but some think they will go further. VEGETABLE DIET TEA AND COFFEE. 35 At any rate they are good for a change. It would be good for a change for those who are put to their wits' end to know how to get food enough to feed their families, if any thing that we have said shall put them in a way of changing some of their old habits, so as to buy such arti- cles as will satisfy hunger, while giving them health and strength, for less than half the money they are now ex- pending, though living only half comfortably. That the laboring man must eat meat is a fallacy. I have seen thousands of laboring men, in South Carolina, who never eat meat. Thousands of others do not eat meat, or food made of meat, oftener than once a week. Half a bushel of sweet potatoes is a common allowance for rice-field hands a week. Sometimes it is a peck of rice, or meal, with soup, one day in the week, made by boiling fifteen pounds of meat, with crude vegetables, in eighty quarts of water. Upon such diet men are healthy, if not strong. Dyspeptic persons may enjoy a full meal without meat vastly to their benefit. Bread and potatoes ; or bread, potatoes, and apples; or bread, potatoes, apples, and squash ; or a hundred other combinations. A full diet does not consist in any given number or kind of articles ; but on the proper quantity and quality of some or all kinds of food. Because the appetite craves meat, does not prove it necessary, any more than the cravings of viti- ated appetites after rum and tobacco. Still, I do not rec- ommend all to discard meat. I only ask them to exer- cise more economy in its purchase and preparation. TEA AND COFFEE. As I do not discard meat from the poor man's diet, the poor woman will of course console herself with the hope that I shall not discard tea and coffee. I will compromise the matter by allowing her to retain Hack tea, if properly made. 86 TEA AND COFFEE COLD WATER. If black tea is steeped a few minutes in the usual way of making green tea, the decoction is acrid and unpala- table. If boiled steadily for 15 to 30 minutes, the resinous snbstance is dissolved and the flavor entirely changed. I never use green tea, and never recommend it to be used, because it is a manufactured article, frequently colored with deleterious drugs. COFFEE I never use, be- cause experience taught me, by a long trial of daily use, and subsequent well-managed experiments upon myself, that it was the cause of all my severe suffering from nervous and sick headaches. Because I know this, I have discarded its use. Coffee is not food. And certainly, for all those who buy stuff called "ground coffee," I would recommend as equally nutri- tious, and far more healthy a decoction of burned crusts, burned bran, burned rye, burned peas, burned carrots, and many other cheap substances; and if not aromatic enough, buy the "essence of coffee," and add a few drops. If not bitter enough, add quassia chips. If not astringent enough, you can get that quality from oak bark, cheaper than the coffee berry. Asparagus seeds, treated just like coffee, make a de- coction undistinguishable from the real Mocha or Java. But as long as pure water pours clown Niagara Falls, the same element may be poured down all our throats far more economically, and far more healthily, than any decoction of berries, roots, beans, grain, or any brewing or distillation of the same. Of the economy of water used freely upon the exterior also, as well as for drink, I could not say too much, and yet have not room to say but these few words. If you wash all over every morning with cold water as a regular habit, and use nothing but cold water for drink, you can work all day in a cold room without feel- ing the want of fire, and your health will be such that yon will relish plain, coarse food, and thus will enjoy the benefit of economy in a three-fold sense. VENTILATION. 37 Next to the neglect of water and, in fact, it should rank first is the neglect of air. The very worst economy is that which poisons people with dwellings that have no VENTILATION. "Wherever we go, we find a lamentable ignorance of the laws which govern the human system. Among the laws of health, no one, perhaps, merits our serious atten- tion more than that of fresh air. It may be said with truth, that not one building in a thousand, in this coun- try, is properly ventilated. This is especially the case with regafd to our school-houses, churches, halls, and other public buildings, where large bodies of people fre- quently congregate. In our churches it is almost impos- sible for any one not to be struck with the deficiency in means of ventilation ; and even the slight means which are at hand are very generally disregarded : the doors are closed, and windows kept down in stifling hot weath- er, as though fresh air were poison, and by no means to be inhaled except at long and painful intervals. A few moments' sitting convinces any one accustomed to breath- ing real and substantial air, that he is killing himself by degrees a feeling of drowsiness overcomes him, and it requires an effort on his part to prevent himself from falling asleep, and nodding perhaps unwilling coinci- dence with the doctrines held forth in the pulpit. It is no extraordinary thing for us to see men and women asleep in church, and it is very common to hear people declaim against it as a sin of the first magnitude. In our opinion the sin consists in going where fresh air is a rarity, and thus inhaling poisonous and baleful air, to the great detriment of health and happiness. Let churches, school-houses, and all other public and private establish- ments, be ventilated properly, and there will be no diffi- culty in keeping people awake with a very ordinary ser- mon or lecture." In all our tenant houses the same thing prevails in an aggravated form, and will continue until we have a Board A NEW BOOK ON ECONOMY. of Health possessed of power to guard the health of the people. Upon the subject of econom} T , generally, I shall now produce a few extracts from a new book just published by Bunce & Brothers, New York, entitled Home Com- forts ; or, Economy Illustrated, by Lillie Savery ; of which the publishers truly say in their advertisement, that " no one can read the book without being interested in its lessons of economy in things that pertain to every- day life in every family." It is written in a pleasant narrative form, like telling a good story, and may be read with profit by all classes ; and we are confident that no one can read it without be- ing interested, amused, and instructed. An illustration of the economy of order and neatness we extract from page 11. Mrs. Savery invites a lady to go to her kitchen to learn how to make a corn-meal cake. She is telling her friend the story. " I had a good mind to refuse, for I expected that I should get a grease spot on my new silk, just as like as not. I am sure I should in my kitchen ; but would you believe it, hers is as clean as a new pin. Why, the very floor looks as white and clean as a table. I do think she must keep that Susan of hers' scrubbing all the time. For my part I don't see how she ever gets through all the work, and do the washing too. I wish I could get such help." It is not the help it is as much the mistress as the maid. "Mrs. Savery says it is by economy. Economy of time, as well as every thing else, that keeps a house neat and in order." THE CORN CAKE. "But about the nice corn cake?" "Oh, yes. Well, I never; why, it was just nothing to make. I could have made it just as well as she did." THE C011N CAKE. 89 " If you had known how." " Why, yes, to be sure ; but it is nothing to learn ; and then to hear her count the cost. Why, she would feed a whole family for sixpence. In the first place she took a cup of Indian corn meal, not over three cents' worth, she said, and white at that I always use yellow meal it has more taste than the white and put it in a clean wooden bowl, and what do you think she mixed with it, to make her cake ? Water ; nothing but water. " Yes, a little pinch of salt ; but that, she said, she could not count the cost of, it was so small ; and then she mixed, and stirred, and beat the meal and water to- gether as though she was beating eggs, until she got it into a smooth batter that would just pour into a shallow tin pan about an inch deep. The cake, when done, was about as thick as my thumb. She first put the pan into a very hot oven and let it cook until the batter got stiff, and then she opened the stove doors and set the cake up edgeways right before the glowing coals until it got a nice, delicate brown crust, and then drew it back and let it bake slow a long time half an hour or more, I should think." " And was it good ?" "Good! why, I declare I never, tasted any thing so delicious in all my life. I wouldn't have believed it, that just meal and water could be made so good. But that is not all. Just as she had got her cake turned up before the lire, in came her two children such pictures of health did you ever see the like !" "She says that is 'the economy of health.' It is cheaper to keep them healthy than sick, as well as more comfortable. You found them very neat, too." "Neat! I never saw the like. But it's no wonder; look at the pains she takes with them. Why, it must keep Susan busy all the time." "Then who does the work?" " Well, I don't know. I can't understand it. I wish 40 THE CORN-MEAL SWEET CAKE. I could get along so. But then my children are always sick. Hers are always well, and that makes the differ- ence." "]S"o; the difference is in always keeping them well. But you were going to tell us something more about the cake." " Oh, yes. When the children came in, Lillie said, " ' Oh, mother, will you let rne bake a sweet cake for brother Frank and me?'" '"Yes, if you will run up to your room and put away your things, and get on your aprons.' " Directly down they came, and as I live, both of them with check aprons on. I should not like to see my chil- dren dressed in check aprons. It looks so common, and sort of countrified. Then Lillie took the bowl of batter, and got a part of a teacupful of molasses, and a spoon- ful of ginger, and stirred it in, and then she got a cup of sour milk; and what do you think that was for?" " I suppose to put in the cake." " Yes; but first she mixed with it a little super of car- bonate of soda, until she set it all foaming, and then stirred it into the batter, with a little more meal to thicken it again, and poured it into an iron pan about twice as deep as the other, and clapped it right into the hot oven, where it baked until we had almost done tea, and then Susan brought it in smoking hot, and Mrs. Savery cut it up into squares, opening each piece and laying on a little lump of sweet butter, and so serving it round to each one ; and would you believe it, in a respectable family, that that was the only cake on the table. I declare I had no great opinion of corn-meal sweet cake, it seemed to look so mean ; and then I had already eaten heartily of the plain cake, and did not think I would touch this one; but Lillie, with her insinuating, little coaxing way I don't know who could resist her said I must taste her cake ; and with that she asked me to take my knife and lay it open, and then she took a spoonful of juice HOW TO GROW QUINCES. 41 out of the quince preserves and spread over it, and I be- gan tasting and tasting, and would you believe it, the first I thought about what I was doing, I had cleared my plate, and Lillie was helping me to another piece. She was so delighted to see me eat it with such a relish, when I only intended to 'give it a taste, just out of compli- ment.' " " Then it was good ?" " Good ! I never tasted any thing more delicious. I have often had a cake upon my table that I paid a dollar for that did not give half as much satisfaction, the bakers are getting to cheat so dreadfully. I could have forgiven her about her meanness don't you think it is meanness? in making shoes, or putting check aprons on her chil- dren if she had not preached me one of her sermons upon economy, and actually proved to me that the supper, de- licious as it was, had literally cost nothing, that is, next to nothing. There was the meal, three cents ; the mo- lasses, and salt, and soda, three cents ; the tea, two cents ; the sugar and milk, two cents ; the butter butter is high now, but that was not over four cents and let me see, was that all ?" " You mentioned some quince preserves." " Oh, yes, but she said they actually cost less than nothing. About seven years ago it was to commemo- rate the first birthday of Frank she planted a quince bush, and then she told how she made it grow, and bear fruit. She said she always kept the ground loose and covered in the summer with straw, which she wets with soap-suds and dish-water, and last year her quince-tree bore more than she wanted ; and so a friend of hers came and brought her own sugar, and did all the work, and put up the quinces at the halves, while Mrs. Savery was away on a visit in the country. So she proved, you see, that they really did cost nothing. I wish I could live so." So she could, and so could a thousand others if they would practice neatness, order, and economy in all things. BREAKFAST TABLE-TALK. THE FRYING-PAN. (Page 87.) " ' I have often thought how much is wasted in some houses, and how little is known in all, of the economy of purchasing and preparing food. I have read somewhere that one half of the American people wasted enough to feed the other half, and that the greatest kitchen curse was a frying pan ; but I never understood why.' " ' It is because that meat cooked in that way is about the worst cooked of any way it can be, both for health and economy. I don't know of but one thing worse than the smell of burned grease in the frying-pan, and that is that it should be taken into the stomach for digestion. The usual practice in frying meat or any thing else is to put only enough fat in the skillet to burn, and blacken, and scorch the meat or fish, often giving it a bitter taste. If any article is to be fried, fat enough to float it should be used, and that heated as hot as possible without scorching, and then plunge the meat, fish, chicken, dough, potatoes, apples, etc., all over in the hot fat at once. Fish can not be fried fit to eat in any other way. Meat and chicken can always be better cooked in some other way besides frying. Fried potatoes and fried ap- ples, if properly done, are very good food. Fried cakes, or dough-nuts, are a great Yankee dish, but are often badly cooked. They are fried in too little lard, and soaked with burned grease, forming a most unhealthy O / compound." BREAD-MAKING. On page 95 I find directions for making light bread, from which somebody may learn something useful. " This is what we call a sponge. I set it this morning, and you see it is now ready to knead into loaves. This is by far the most important part of bread-making.' 1 MAKING LIGHT BREAD. 43 " Please tell me about setting the sponge, as you call it." " Oh, yes ! Well, I use about ten quarts of flour, which I put into this large wooden tray, and make a hole in the center and pour in about half a pint of brewer's yeast, mixed with a pint of water, milk-warm. As I pour it in gradually, I stir some of the flour in with it till it forms a batter. Then I take a handful of dry flour and sprinkle over the top. Then I spread over this a thick tow cloth, which I call my sponge-cloth, and never use it for any thing else but covering the bread-tray. Now I set my sponge by the fire, or in the sun, and go about my work till it is ready to knead." " How do you know when it is ready ?" " I frequently look at it, and when it seems to be work- ing, that is, sponging up, so as to crack the covering of flour, it is then ready to form into dough." "That is what you are going to do now." "Yes; and therein lies the secret of good bread. Not one in ten ever kneads the dough enough. It is hard work, and requires strong hands, and can only be done b}' hand. I begin thus ; by pouring in warm water with one hand and mixing it with the other. It will take about two quarts, so that altogether I shall use of yeast and water about half as many pounds as I have flour. Clear soft water is the best. I use cistern water, filtered. Milk-warm or blood-warm is about right. I add a table- spoonful of fine salt. This I scatter over the sponge be- fore I begin to knead. Mixing flour and water together will make dough ; but if you want good bread you must take both hands in tin's way, and work the mass into a stiff, tough dough. "There, now, you see how it adheres together, so that I could draw it out in strands and braid a rope. Now I form it into a compact ball, and cover it up, and set it here in this warm spot of sunshine that is pouring through the window upon the kitchen table. I shall let it stand 44 USE OF STALE BREAD. there about an hour, and then take a knife and cut it evenly into four parts, each of which I shall take sepa- rately upon my pie-board, and form it into a loaf to suit one of these pans. By timing my work in this way, I cook my dinner, and bake my bread by one heat in the stove." "What is that for?" said Salinda, as she saw her cut off a lump of dough as large as her fist and lay it aside. "That is to leaven another baking. Do you see those pieces of stale bread which I am soaking in milk. I never waste a morsel of bread. Either in pudding, gravy, or in rusk, I use up all. These pieces I soak till so soft that I can add a little flour and knead the whole together. I also add a little shortening. This lump of dough I shall knead into the mass, and that will make the whole light. Then I mould it out like biscuit, and bake them after the bread is done, and have them warm for tea. Oh, I for- got the sweetening. I always sweeten rusk." " How often do you bake bread ?" " Twice a week ; but if I had a large brick oven I would only bake once a week; because stale bread, or, more properly speaking, ripe bread, is, for the most, healthy and economical, and as I never waste any old bread, it is no matter how much I have on hand." " Do you ever mix potatoes with your flour ?" " I used to when potatoes w r ere cheap. At a dollar or more a bushel, it is not good economy. I often add a little corn meal, but I always cook it partly first, in a thin mush. If added raw to the flour, it will not cook enough in the baking process. For a change, I make bread with an addition of a little sugar, or butter, or sweet lard. I forgot to say I alwa}*s add butter to my rusk. Some- times I divide my dough, and sweeten one loaf for the children. They are fond of it, and it is much more healthy than rich cake. When the writer of that text which says 'bread is the staff of life,' wrote it, he cer- tainly referred to good bread ; not such miserable bread as we find in most houses. If you have good bread, you. THE PLAIN DINNER. 45 never will be at any loss to set a very good meal, upon emergency, without meat. You may have fresh bread and butter, dry toast and butter, soft toast with water or milk, bread and milk, or, and what can be nicer, some bread and butter and honey." THE PLAIN DINNER. (Page 101.) Here we have a plain, wholesome dinner in a mechanic's family. " Ah, there come the children, punctual as the clock. Now, Susan, we will have our little plain dinner. What have you got? Oh, a nice piece of fresh beef, not ex- actly like the French bouilli, but after a way of our own. It is a piece of the rump, from seven to ten pounds, which was boiled in soup yesterday, of which we made our dinner without cutting the meat. It was slightly flavored with onion, parsley, and thyme. Susan always adds a dry pepper pod, one of our own raising, and just salt enough to flavor it, and while it is warm she sticks in these cloves. You will find it tender and good. " We are all fond of it cold, but if it should be pre- ferred hot, lay it in a dish and clap it in the oven a few minutes. In the season of them, we always add toma- toes. Now we substitute tomato catsup. This aspara- gus you will find fresh and tender. It is a healthy veg- etable at this season. How will you eat your lettuce with sugar, as Frank is fixing his ?" " I never tasted it that way. When I have been at school, the old housekeeper was always scolding about our using so much sugar, and I don't know what she would have said if any one had used it upon lettuce." "She knew nothing of economy. I should have al- lowed you to sweeten your water, bread, milk, vegeta- bles, and meat if you liked it ; so you did not eat raw sugar, you might have all you wished, that is, in place of the same cost of other food." 46 SALT AND OTHER CONDIMENTS. Mr. Savery's opinion of tobacco (page 125). "You are severe on gross eaters and hard drinkers, sir ; pray, what is your opinion of the use of tobacco ?" " That, waving all argument about its poisonous effects and unhealthiness, the use of it is so positively filthy, whether chewed, snuffed, or smoked, that no well-bred gentleman or lady can use it, or sanction its use, or, what is still more, encourage friends to get accustomed to a practice that enslaves them through life." USE OF SALT. (Page 131.) " Health depends on quality as well as quantity of food. Some things are naturally pernicious, and some are made so by cooking and combination with others. "Condiments, such as pepper, spice, mustard, vinegar, salt, etc., are never needed in a healthy stomach. In case of stimulants being needed, such things may be used." " Don't you think that salt is necessary ?" "No more," said Mr. Savery, "than any of the other stimulants. If we eat less salt we should drink less, and the world would be saved from the disgrace of drunken- ness. We are so accustomed to the use of salt, that we never stop to inquire whether it is really useful, or neces- sary, or beneficial, or otherwise. "There are more gluttons than drunkards in America; that is, persons who injure themselves by eating. " A perfectly healthy stomach can digest almost any healthful food ; but when the digestive powers are weak, what is food for one would be poison to another. " Rice, potatoes when dry and well cooked, flour, Indian corn, tender meats, or meats minced fine, are easiest of digestion. Tough beef, fat bacon, unripe fruit, wilted vegetables, rancid butter, short pie-crust, hot short-cakes, and many articles of mixed food, will in A LESSON IN THE KITCHEN. 47 time destroy the powers of an ostrich-like stomach in any human being that does not take violent exercise in the open air. After every meal a person should rest a little while to allow the gastric juice time to incorporate itself with the contents of the stomach. "The food of our meals should be properly appor- tioned to the wants of the body. At breakfast we need drinks, and should eat fruit and light vegetable food, with but little meat. That good old-fashioned dish of hash a little meat and potatoes, with a flour gravy is an excellent breakfast dish. But we do not eat fruit enough, and the eating of hearty meats, often, too. cooked by frying, is a national sin of this country." A LESSON IN THE KITCHEN. (Page 154.) Salinda inquires of Susan " What are you soaking this meat for ?" "That is the edge bone of the round the most econ- omical piece of meat in the whole beef. I shall boil that directly till it is nice and tender, and in the liquor I shall put all that pan of roast meat bones which I have been saving all the week, and add my vegetables, and make such a nice pot of soup and, as you see, all for nothing. That soup is for to-morrow. You must be careful never to let soup cool in the iron pot in which it is cooked. I take it out and pour it through the cullender into the soup tureen. It sometimes, particularly if I use a good many carrots, gelatinizes so as to be like a jelly. This I heat up to-morrow in a clean tin kettle. " The meat I shall take out, and while it is wet I sprinkle it all over with pulverized cracker or rusk bread, with whatever seasoning is agreeable to the family. Some use garlic or onions, and various herbs. We pre- fer every thing plain. I use a little salt, pepper, thyme, and afterward garnish with parsley. This meat I put in a dish in a hot oven just long enough to brown the out- 48 PREPARING FOR SUNDAY. side. You. will say to-morrow that it is very nice, and quite as good as though it was hot. This also serves for Monday, dinner and tea, and very like for breakfast Tuesday. ~M.y potatoes I prepare to-day by boiling and mashing, and putting in this tin pan. If I have a fire in the range I clap the pan in the oven, first glazing the top with the white of an egg. It browns and heats through directly. If I use nothing but this little char- coal furnace, I put the pan in this little bake-oven, first heating the lid, and set the whole over the coals. This and the soup is all that I have to cook. When potatoes are better fresh boiled, I can boil a mess and heat my soup with a quart of coal. " To-morrow we shall have for dinner cold meat and cold rice-pudding, and hot soup and potatoes, with let- tuce and radishes. Perhaps Mr. Savery will bring a lob- ster this evening." " Do you cook for breakfast?" "Very little. I make a cap of tea or cocoa. If I have cold potatoes, I fry them. Then, with a little cold boiled ham, or corn beef, or tongue, or leg of mutton, with fruits in their season, we make a nice Sunday breakfast, without roasting the cook's face for it. You see I shall have no cooking to-morrow morning, and very little all day." "How admirably you have every thing arranged so as not to interfere with the Sabbath, and yet you will have a better and far more wholesome breakfast and dinner than many that are obtained by toil and privations of all the privileges and enjoyments of that day. " Of such lessons, combined with a pleasant story, that book is full ; but I can only extract a few of those most pertinent to this work. 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