1 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 University of California. 
 
 GIFT OK* 
 
 Mrs. SARAH P. WALS WORTH. 
 
 Received October, 18Q4. 
 ^Accessions No. ff% '/.<? 'SL- Class No. 
 
 L 
 
NARRATIVE 
 
 UNITED STATES' EXPEDITION 
 
 THE RIVER JORDAN 
 
 DEAD SEA, 
 
 BY 
 
 W. F. LYNCH, U.S.N., 
 
 COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION, 
 
 WITH 
 
 A MAP FROM ACCURATE SURVEYS. 
 
 A NEW AND CONDENSED EDITION. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 LEA AND BLANCHARD 
 1850. 
 
3^ XQ 
 
 Co 
 
 V* 
 
 sritz. 
 
 Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1850, by 
 
 LEA AND BLANCHARD, 
 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 
 Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 
 
 STEREOTYPED BY J. F A G- A N . 
 
 PRINTED EY T. K. AND P. G. COLLINS. 
 
 (2) 
 
THIS CONDENSED NARRATIVE 
 
 £s Betrfcateti 
 
 TO 
 
 A FRIEND OF FORMER TIMES 
 
 AN HONOR TO HIS COUNTRY 
 
 AND HIS KIND. 
 
 (iii) 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In the Preface to the large and illustrated edition of this 
 work, it is stated that " The object of the Expedition, the 
 narrative of which is here presented, was unknown to the pub- 
 lic, until a very short time prior to its departure from the United 
 States, when the indications were such as to induce me to ap- 
 prehend that it was not appreciated. Nevertheless, I had an 
 abiding faith in the ultimate issue, which cheered me on ; for I 
 felt that a liberal and enlightened community would not long 
 condemn an attempt to explore a distant river, and its wondrous 
 reservoir, — the first, teeming with sacred associations, and the 
 last, enveloped in a mystery, which had defied all previous 
 attempts to penetrate it. 
 
 " As soon as possible after our return, I handed in my official 
 report, and, at the same time, asked permission to publish a 
 narrative or diary, of course embracing much, necessarily eli- 
 cited by visiting such interesting scenes, that would be unfit for 
 an official paper. The permission asked, was granted by the 
 Hon. J. Y. Mason, Secretary of the Navy, with the remark, 
 ' I give this assent with the more pleasure, because I do not 
 think that you should be anticipated by any other, who had 
 not the responsibility of the enterprise.' " 
 
 In presenting the illustrated edition to the public, I wished 
 to render an exact account of all incidents that befel and obser- 
 vations that were made, in a style and execution commensurate 
 with the character of the Government which sanctioned it. 
 This object having been effected, I now carry out the further 
 design of extending a knowledge of the results by issuing this 
 
 1* (V) 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 cheaper, and condensed edition. The reading matter is nearly 
 the same, from the landing of the Expedition in Syria until its 
 return to the United States. 
 
 The Map has been carefully and accurately reduced from 
 the larger one prepared for and published by the Government, 
 and will be found to contain the more important details set 
 forth in the two which accompanied the former edition. 
 
 In preparing my first publication, I studiously avoided the ap- 
 pearance of endeavouring to manufacture opinions for others. 
 In response, however, to many calls that have been made upon 
 me, as to my opinion, — that the Jordan originally ran through 
 the vale of Siddim, before the latter was submerged, I have 
 no hesitation in giving the reasons upon which it is based. 
 
 From the pits of bitumen within sight of the highest peren- 
 nial source of the Jordan, to the Salt Mountain of Usdum, at 
 the south-west extremity of the Dead Sea, there is a continued 
 chain of volcanic characters. Black basalt prevails from beyond 
 the head of Lake Tiberias far down the Jordan ; and the north- 
 eastern and north-western shores of the Dead Sea, present 
 respectively tufa and a black bituminous limestone, which in- 
 flames and is foetid when exposed to the fire ; while sulphur and 
 naphtha are also found upon its shores. 
 
 Thermal springs prevail upon the shores of the Sea of Ga- 
 lilee, the Jordan, and the Dead Sea. The whole region has 
 been convulsed by earthquakes, and the one, which in 1837 
 nearly destroyed the towns of Safed and Tiberias, dislodged a 
 huge mass of bitumen from the depths of the last-named sea. 
 
 South of the Dead Sea, volcanic characters are also exhi- 
 bited. Burckhardt saw volcanic rocks on the eastern base 
 of Mount Sinai, and the traces are those of primary volcanic 
 action. 
 
 Our soundings ascertained the bottom of the Dead Sea to 
 consist of two plains, an elevated and a depressed one — ave- 
 raging, the former 13, and the latter 1300 feet, below the sur- 
 face. Through the northern, and largest and deepest one, is 
 
PREFACE. Vll 
 
 a ravine, which seems to correspond with the bed of the Jordan 
 to the north, and the Wady el Jeib, or ravine within a ravine, 
 at the south end of the Sea. 
 
 Between the River Jabok (a tributary of the Jordan,) and 
 the Dead Sea, we unexpectedly encountered a sudden break- 
 down in the bed of the last named river, and according to 
 the account of a distinguished eastern traveller there is a similar 
 break in the water-courses to the south of the Sea. 
 
 As stated in the narrative too, the conviction'was forced upon 
 me, that the mountains which hem in the Dead Sea are older 
 than the Sea itself— for, had their relative ages been the same 
 at first, the torrents which pour into the Sea would have worn 
 their beds in a gradual and correlative slope ; whereas, in the 
 northern section, where a soft, bituminous limestone prevails, 
 they plunge down several hundred feet, while on both sides of 
 the southern portion, the ravines come down without abrupt- 
 ness, although the head of Wady Kerak, at the south-east bor- 
 der of the Sea, is more than 1000 feet higher than Wady 
 Ghuweir on its north-west shore. 
 
 Lake Tiberias is 312 feet ; the Dead Sea 1316 feet, and the 
 Red Sea (computed by Laborde) 75 feet below the level of the 
 Mediterranean. As an elevation of the whole Grhor, preserving 
 those exact proportions, zvoidd carry its waters into the Southern 
 Ocean, I cannot resist the inference that, by a general con- 
 vulsion, the whole valley has sunk down, with the greatest de- 
 pression abreast of Wady Ghuweir ; and that the streams which 
 formerly ran through to the Red Sea, were thereby debarred 
 an outlet and submerged the plain, the cities of which, from 
 the abundance of bitumen that prevailed, were most probably 
 the theatre of a preceding conflagration. 
 
 March, 1850. 
 
LIST 
 
 OF THE 
 
 MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION 
 
 W. F. Lynch, Lieutenant-Commanding. 
 
 John B. Dale, Lieutenant. 
 
 R. Aulick, Passed-Midshipman. 
 
 Francis E. Lynch, Charge of Herbarium. 
 
 Joseph C. Thomas, Master's Mate. 
 
 George Overstock, Seaman. 
 
 Francis Williams, " 
 
 Charles Homer, " 
 
 Hugh Read, " 
 
 John Robinson, " 
 
 Gilbert Lee, " 
 
 George Lockwood, " 
 
 Charles Albertson, " 
 
 Henry Loveland, " 
 
 Henry Bedlow, Esq., and Henry J. Anderson, M.D., 
 were associated with the Expedition as volunteers, after its 
 original organization, — the first at Constantinople, and tho 
 other at Beirut. More zealous, efficient, and honourable asso- 
 ciates could not have been desired. They were ever in the 
 right place, bearing their full share of watching and privation. 
 In separating from Dr. Anderson, at Jerusalem, we felt that 
 we were parting from a tried and sterling friend. To the 
 skill of Mr. Bedlow, the wounded seaman was indebted for the 
 preservation of his life ; and words are inadequate to express 
 how, in sickness, forgetful of himself, he devoted all his efforts 
 to the relief of his sick companions. His notes were of great 
 service to me, and contributed very much to the value of the 
 work. 
 
 (viii) 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Pagb 
 Application to the Navy Department — Favourable result — Vessel de- 
 signated—Preparations — Metallic boats — Selection of men— Officers 
 — Orders for departure — Instructions for the Expedition — Detention 
 of the ship— Time employed in various preparations — Water-bags — 
 Boats, and the means of their transportation 25 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 FROM NEW YORK TO PORT MAHON. 
 
 Sail from New York— Pleasing anticipations— The Azores— Trafalgar 
 — View of Gibraltar — Port Mahon 27 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 FROM PORT MAHON TO SMYRNA. 
 
 Departure from Mahon — Arrival at Valetta— Leave Malta— Enter the 
 Egean Sea — View of the shores of Greece — Reflections — Smyrna — 
 Oriental scenes — Aspect of Smyrna — Environs of Smyrna 32 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 FROM SMYRNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 Embarkation for Constantinople — Shores of Greece — The Hellespont 
 — Classic associations — A disappointment — Constantinople — Beauti- 
 ful scene — Caiques — Harbour of Constantinople — Minarets — The 
 slave-market — Probability of an invasion of Turkey by Russia — Ser- 
 vile condition of the Turkish women — Blessings of Christianity .... 37 
 
 (ix) 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE, AND VOYAGE TO SYRIA. 
 
 Visit to the Sultan— Pipes and coffee— Disputed point of etiquette- 
 Servility of the officers— Presence of the Sultan— Sad reflections- 
 Offer of a present — The American minister — Visit of the Sultan to 
 the mosque — His appearance — Dancing dervishes — Necessity of reli- 
 gion — Receive our firman — Embarkation — Rejoin the "Supply" — 
 Leave Smyrna — Gale — Scio — Riding on a rail — Ruins of Ephesus — 
 Church of St. John — Patmos — Cos — Lunar rainbow — Candia — 
 Rhodes— Cyprus— Mountains of Lebanon 45 
 
 CHAPTER VI, 
 FROM BEIRUT TO DEPARTURE FROM ST. JEAN d'ACRE. 
 
 Beirut— Preparations— Peculiar costume— Departure— Sidon and Tyre 
 —St. Jean d'Acre— Mount Carmel— Dangerous landing— Extensive 
 v i ew _Convent of Mount Carmel— Boats landed and tents pitched- 
 Thieving — First night ashore — Arab horses — Brook Kishon — Akka 
 — Visit to the American Consul — Appearance of the town — A draw- 
 back to personal charms — Governor of Acre — A conference— Diffi- 
 culties — Arab curiosity — Audience at the palace — Singular mode of 
 begging— 'Akll Aga— Attempt at extortion — Meeting with American 
 travellers— Exciting reports— Deliberations— Troublesome visitors- 
 Etiquette— Sherif of Mecca— Camels used for draught— Delays 59 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 FROM ST. JEAN d'ACRE TO DEPARTURE FROM THE SEA OF 
 GALILEE. 
 
 Disappointments— Effrontery of Sa'id Bey— Journey continued— Plain 
 of Acre — Village of Abelin — Doubts and mistrust — Character of the 
 village and surrounding country — Inhospitable reception — Embar- 
 rassing position— Relief— Arab morals — An escort— Blowing Valley 
 — Picturesque views— Khan el Dielil — Castle of Sefurich— Naza- 
 reth— Reflections— Mode of dealing among the Arabs— Equestrian 
 exercises— Difficulties of the road — Turan — Mount Tabor— Meet 
 
 ' Dr. Anderson— An Arab repast— Music— Lubieh— Character of the 
 country— Magnificent scenery— The Sea of Galilee— Thrilling emo- 
 tions— Safed— Joseph's Well— Tiberias— Reception— Visits from and 
 
CONTENTS. XI 
 
 to the Governor — Administration of justice— Thraldom of the Jews 
 — Chapel of St. Peter — Jewish Synagogues — Habits and costume of 
 the Jewish females — Letters from Jerusalem — Firman from the Pasha 
 — Express from Acre — Launch of the boats — Profound emotion — 
 Hot baths — Fish — Discouraging accounts of the Jordan — Summary 
 dealings— Preparations for the Expedition— Visit from an ogre prince 
 — Assignment of duties 76 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FROM THE SEA OF GALILEE TO THE FALLS OF BUK'AH. 
 
 Departure of the boats — Scenery of the lake — Enter the Jordan — Mount 
 Hermon — Bridge of Semakh — Dangerous situation of the boats — 
 Character of the country — Arab hospitality— Formidable rapids — 
 Village of Abeidiyeh— Falls and whirlpool of Buk'ah — Ruins of Del- 
 hemiyeh — Rejoined by the land-party — Predatory habits of the Beda- 
 win — Account furnished by the land-party — Visit from Emir Nasser 
 — Preparations for further progress— Night-encampment 99 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FROM THE FALLS OF BUK'AH TO THE FOURTH CAMPING- 
 PLACE UPON THE JORDAN. 
 
 Daybreak excursion — Profusion of flowers — Gadara — Loss of a boat — 
 Passage of the cascades — Imprudence — Descent of the fourth rapid 
 — the River Yermak — View from a hill-top — Bridge of the Place of 
 Meeting — Ruined khan — Bedawin encampment — Continued succes- 
 sion of rapids — A noble Arab — Land of Issachar — Visit of Lieutenant 
 Dale to Muhammed Pasha — Preparations for defence — Perilous situ- 
 ation of the Fanny Mason — Peculiar formation of the hills— Principal 
 productions — Change of climate — Arab camp — Extraordinary wind- 
 ings of the river — Starting of the caravan — Desolate aspect of the 
 country — Heat and drought — Arab beauty — A pastoral entertain- 
 ment — A Turkish camp — An unwelcome escort — Arab tents — Vora- 
 city of the Arabs — A false alarm 110 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 from the fourth camp on the jordan to the ford of 
 
 suk'wa. 
 
 Start anew — Wonder of the barbarians — Beautiful scenery — Wild 
 beasts — Birds — Management of the boats — Meeting with 'Akil — 
 Perils of the voyage — Eastern Mountains— The ogre prince and his 
 
XU CONTENTS. 
 
 tribe — Geological features of the country — Fish and Birds — Wild 
 Boars — Indications of ruins — Ruins of Succoth — True character Of 
 the camel — Route of the caravan — Fording the river — Fresh difficul- 
 ties and dangers of the river — General description of the countryr— 
 Ford of Suk'wa — Alarming intelligence — Exciting incident — Vege- 
 tation on the Jordan — The sukkum — Muhammedan sects — Arab fra- 
 ternization — Description of the river — An Eastern scene — Mournful 
 music — A singular minstrel — The Emir's love-song 127 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 FROM FORD OF SUK'WA TO PILGRIM'S FORD. 
 
 Changes in the vegetation — Suspicious neighbourhood — Arab cookery 
 — Mode of eating — Singular caverns — River Jabok — Scripture loca- 
 lities — El Meshra'a — A sacred spot — Capture of a camel — Gazelles 
 — Jericho — Glimpse of the Dead Sea and mountains of Moab — Pil- 
 grim's Ford — Army of pilgrims — Bathing in the Jordan — Happy 
 meeting — Determination to proceed 155 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 FROM PILGRIM'S FORD TO FIRST CAMP ON THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 Further progress — Character of the river — Enter the Dead Sea — Gale 
 — Arab tradition — Night upon the sea — Ancient caverns — Fountain 
 of the Stride — Dismissal of our escort — Painful Desolation — Arab 
 honour — A Bedavvin feast — Unwelcome music — Arabs at prayer — 
 Anxiety respecting the boats — Soundings of the Dead Sea — Brook 
 Kidron — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Cliff of Mukiitta — Aspect of the 
 shores of the sea — Fresh-water stream 170 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 FROM AIN EL FESHKHAH TO AIN JIDY (ENGADDl) . 
 
 Preparations for moving southward — Wilderness of Engaddi — Evidences 
 of former cultivation — Cavernous mountain — Examination of the 
 boats — Barometrical and thermometrical observations — Scruples of 
 the Arabs in regard to pork — Their sobriety — Their habits of pilfer- 
 ing — Singular phenomenon — Arabs' opinion of the cause of our visit 
 — Atmospheric phenomena — Currents in the Dead Sea — Magnificen 
 sunset — An Arab dance — Kindness of Mr. Finn, the British Consul 
 — Departure for the peninsula — Orders — Result of soundings— De- 
 scription of the Peninsula — Geological formation— Total absence of 
 vegetation — Bushes incrusted with salt — The River Arnon — Arab 
 improvisatore , 183 
 
CONTENTS. Xiii 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 EXPEDITION AROUND THE SOUTHERN SEA. 
 
 Start upon a reconnoissance— Currents— Cliff of Sebbeh— Ruined forti- 
 fication — Geological formation of the western shore — Locusts — Mo- 
 ses' stone — Fears and anxieties of the Arabs — A sirocco— Search for 
 the ford— Landing at Usdum — Salt mountain — Pillar of salt — Bitter 
 melon— Dismiss the Arabs — Heat of the soil — Difficulties in taking 
 observations — Remarkable phenomenon — Burning hurricane — Pain- 
 ful effects of the sirocco — Insupportable heat and thirst— A dreadful 
 night — Abatement of the heat — Moat) — Arabs' ideas respecting the 
 boats — Verification of Scripture narrative — Usefulness of the Arabs 
 —Atmospheric refraction— Tendency to drowsiness— Return to Ain 
 Jidy — Intelligence from home — Dwellings in the rock — Egerian 
 fountain— Luxurious repast— Singular appearance of the sea— Den- 
 sity of the water— Opinion of Galen— The osher, or apple of Sodom 
 — Character of the north winds — Call to prayer — Party despatched 
 to Masada— Firing of minute-guns in honour of Ex-President Adams 
 — Remarkable changes in the aspect of the sea— Mode of reaping 
 and threshing among the Arabs— Their humanity to animals 197 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 FROM CAMP TO THE CAPITAL OF MOAB. 
 The day of rest— Effects of the climate upon health— Irresistible drow- 
 siness — Battle between two parties of Arabs — Friendly invitation 
 from the sheik Abd 'Allah— The fellahin tribes— Mezra'a— Christian 
 Arabs — Mode of salutation — Zoar — Ancient ruins — Muslim and 
 Christian sheikhs — Curiosity and superstition of the Arabs — Songs of 
 welcome and war-cries — Ancient fortification — Appalling storm — 
 Wild character of the scenery — Inexpertness of the Arab marksmen 
 —Entrance into Kerak— Filth and discomfort of the dwellings— A 
 Christian priest and chapel— Magnificence of the castle— Ambitious 
 views of 'Akil— Discontent of the Muslim sheikh— Oppression of the 
 Christians of' Kerak— Their appeal to the Christians of America- 
 Nocturnal pleasures — Departure from Kerak — Insolence of the 
 Arabs— Muhammed made prisoner— Arrival at the beach— Release 
 of Muhammed — Embarkation 218 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 CRUISE ALONG THE ARABIAN SHORE, 
 The river Arnon— Lofty cliffs— Singular ravine— Fears of sickness- 
 Sketch of the shores— Hot springs of Call irohoe— Delightful contrast 244 
 9 
 
Xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 FROM THE OUTLET OF THE HOT SPRINGS OF CALLIROHOE TO 
 AIN TURABEH. 
 
 Changes of temperature — Deep soundings— Arrival at Ain Turabeh — 
 Return to the tents — Preparation for departure — Intense heat — Si- 
 rocco—The bulbul— American flag floating over the sea— Analysis 
 of the water — Result of our labours — Hypotheses — Conviction of the 
 truth of the Scripture narrative— Our last night on the Dead Sea . . 248 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 FROM THE DEAD SEA TO THE CONVENT OF MAR SABA. 
 Breaking up of our camp— Incidents of the journey— Night encamp- 
 ment— Sherif tells his history— His character— Monks of Mar Saba 
 Intelligence from the sick seamen— Rapid change of climate— Holy 
 associations— Specimens forwarded— Painful alternations of tempera- 
 ture—The brook Kedron— Convent of Mar Saba— Plants and flowers 
 —The hyssop— Thunder-storm— The coney 254 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 FROM MAR SABA TO JERUSALEM. 
 Arab attendants discharged — Rocky cistern — Desolate aspect of the 
 country — Fulfilment of prophecy — Arab burial-ground — Arab en- 
 campment — Tobacco— Pilgrims' road— The tribe Subeih— Curiosity 
 of the people — Attempted extortion — Insecurity of the husbandman — 
 An Arab's love — Mode of courtship — Jealousy and revenge — First 
 view of Jerusalem — Prominent objects — Character of the surround- 
 ing country— Well of Job — Mount of Offence — Pool of Siloam — 
 Fountain of the Virgin — Village of Siloam — Tombs of Absalom, 
 Zacharias, and Jehoshaphat — Garden of Gethsemane— Valley of the 
 Son of Hinnom— The Aceldama— Garden of Urias— Mount Zion— 
 Hill of Evil Counsel — View from the encampment — Night under the 
 walls of Jerusalem 266 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 Levelling proceeded with— Tomb of the Empress Helena— Scenery on 
 the Jaffa road— Convent of the Holy Cross — Ludicrous superstition — 
 View of the city — Habitations of the lepers — Boats sent to Jaffa — 
 Dr. Anderson leaves us — His praiseworthy conduct — Extract from 
 
CONTENTS. XV 
 
 the diary of one of the officers— His first day in Jerusalem — Via Do- 
 lorosa— Mosque of Omar— Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Pious zeal 
 of the Pilgrims— Description of the interior of the Church of the Se- 
 pulchre—Ascent of the Mount of Olives— Visit to the Garden of Geth- 
 semane— The Golden Gate— Fountain of the Virgin — Armenian con- 
 vent — Character of the visitors to Jerusalem — Sacred localities, their 
 claims to confidence — Scripture predictions — Scientific labours con- 
 tinued — Interesting localities— Magnificent view from the Mount of 
 Olives— Kindness of the British Consul — Pool of Bethesda — Varie- 
 ties of costume— Singular marriage-procession — Walls of the city — 
 Muhammedan and Christian predictions — Visit to Bethlehem — Pool 
 of Gihon — Well of the Magi— Plain of Rephaim— Convent of John 
 the Baptist— Tomb of Rachel— Wilderness of St. John— Valley of 
 Ekh — David's Well — Doubts as to the birth-place of the Messiah — 
 Calmet's views— Hill of the Annunciation — Ruth's gleaning-ground 
 — Treatment of pilgrims at Jerusalem — Restrictions upon Christians 
 — Products of the country 269 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 FROM JERUSALEM TO JAFFA. 
 Preparations for departure — Luxuriant vegetation — Scriptural localities 
 — The olive tree— View of the Mediterranean— Vale of Sharon- 
 Village of Latrun— Gaza— Kubab— Jackals— Filthy habits of the 
 people— Ramleh— Environs of the town — Yazur— Dervishes and 
 pilgrims— Results of our operations in levelling— Jaffa— Copt village 
 Muhammedan superstitions— Throwing the djer id— Funeral proces- 
 sion — Syro-American Consul— Historical and mythological recollec- 
 tions of Jaffa — Traditions — Population — Kindness and courtesy of the 
 Consul— Bridal procession — Treatment of Turkish wives— Laws of 
 divorce — Universal thraldom of woman — Turkish laws of inherit- 
 ance — Zodiacal lights — Treatment of slaves 290 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 FROM JAFFA TO NAZARETH. 
 
 Preparations — Departure of the land-party for St. Jean d'Acre — Em- 
 barkation — View of Jaffa from the harbour — Arrival at St. Jean 
 d'Acre — Route of the land-party — Dreadful accident to one of the 
 seamen — Visit from Sherif and 'Akil — Visit returned — Arab enter- 
 tainment—Start for Nazareth — Valley of the Winds— Annoying 
 accident— Arrival at Nazareth — Scene at the Fountain of the Virgin 
 — Franciscan convent — Description of the town — Turkish tax- 
 gatherer — Flowers collected 302 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 FROM NAZARETH TO THE SOURCE OF THE JORDAN. 
 
 Start for Mount Tabor — Plain of Esdraelon — Village of Nain — Ascent 
 to the summit of Mount Tabor— Ruins — Ruined villages — Leave the 
 lower Jordan — Sea of Galilee — Ruins of Tarrichasa and Kades — Hot 
 bath of Emmaus — Tiberias — Magdala — Ruins of Khan Minyeh — 
 Fountain of the Fig — Debouchure of the upper Jordan — Singular 
 tents — Bethsaida — Aspect of the country — View of Mount Hermon 
 — Lake Merom — The Golden Stream — Castle of Honin — Roman 
 bridge — The Ancient Dan- — Derivation of the word Jordan — Cesarea 
 Philippi — Improvements in culture and civilization — Town of Has- 
 beiya — Population of the town — Variety of sects — Religious discord 
 — Persecution of Protestants — Visit from Prince Ali — Source of the 
 Jordan — Terrace cultivation — Visit to the valley of the Litany — 
 Women at the fountain — A trying transition 307 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 FROM THE SOURCE OF THE JORDAN TO DAMASCUS, BAALBEK, 
 BEIRUT, AND HOME. 
 
 Joyful intelligence — Start for Damascus — Druse villages — Gorge of the 
 Wistanee — Cities visible — Geological features — Mineral spring — 
 Approach to Damascus — Description of the town — Meeting with an 
 American — The flag of our country displayed — Turkish insolence — 
 St. Paul's escape from Damascus — Antiquity of the town — Jewish 
 dwellings — Dress of the Jews — Distinguished visitors — Village of 
 Zebdany — Ruins of Heliopolis — Indisposition of some of the party — 
 Roman mound — Arab fellahas — Increasing sickness — Numerous vil- 
 lages — Town of Zahley — Roman road — Arrival at the sea-shore — 
 Exhaustion and increasing illness — Convalescence — Anniversary of 
 our country's independence — Alarming illness of Mr. Dale — Kind- 
 ness of Rev. Mr. Smith and Dr. De Forest — Visit from Dr. Vandyke 
 — Death of Mr. Dale — Preparations to convey the remains to his 
 native land — Painful accident and disappointment- — Interment of the 
 body in the Frank cemetery— Embarkation — Arrival at Malta — 
 Kindness of the American Consul — Arrival of the Supply — Reem- 
 barkation — Uncourteous reception at Naples, Marseilles, and Gibral- 
 tar — Arrival home- — Conclusion — Analysis of Dead Sea Water. .. 318 
 
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EXPEDITION 
 
 TO 
 
 THE DEAD SEA 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUC TORY 
 
 On the 8th of May, 1847, the town and castle of Vera Cruz 
 having some time before surrendered, and there being nothing 
 left for the Navy to perform, I preferred an application to the Hon. 
 John Y. Mason, the head of the department, for permission to 
 circumnavigate and thoroughly explore the Lake Asphaltites or 
 Dead Sea. 
 
 My application was warmly seconded by Commodore Skinner, 
 and having been for some time under consideration, I received 
 notice, on the 31st of July, of a favourable* decision, with an 
 order to commence the necessary preparations. 
 
 On the 2d of October, I received an order to take command of 
 the U. S. store-ship " Supply," formerly called the " Crusader." 
 
 In the mean time, while the ship was being prepared for her 
 legitimate duty of supplying the squadron with stores, I had, by 
 special authority, two metallic boats, a copper and a galvanized 
 iron one, 1 constructed, and shipped ten seamen for their crews. 
 
 1 Built by the patentee, Mr. Joseph Francis of New York. 
 3 (25) 
 
26 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 I was very particular in selecting young, muscular, native-born 
 Americans, of sober habits, from each of whom I exacted a pledge 
 to abstain from all intoxicating drinks. To this stipulation, under 
 Providence, is principally to be ascribed their final recovery from 
 the extreme prostration consequent on the severe privations and 
 great exposure to which they were unavoidably subjected. 
 
 Two officers, Lieutenant J. B. Dale and Passed Midshipman 
 R. Aulick, both excellent draughtsmen, were detailed to assist me 
 in the projected enterprise. 
 
 In November I received orders to proceed to Smyrna, as soon 
 as the ship should in all respects be ready for sea ; and, through 
 the U. S. Resident Minister at Constantinople, apply to the 
 Turkish government for permission to pass through a part of its 
 dominions in Syria, for the purpose of exploring the Dead Sea, 
 and tracing the River Jordan to its source. 
 
 I was then directed, if the firman were granted, to relinquish 
 the ship to the first lieutenant, and land with the little party under 
 my command on the coast of Syria. The ship was thence to pro- 
 ceed to deliver stores to the squadron, and Commodore Read was 
 instructed to send her back in time for our re-embarcation. 
 
 In the event of the firman being refused, it was directed that 
 the ship should rejoin the squadron without proceeding to the 
 coast of Syria, but I had permission to resign the command of 
 her for the purpose of prosecuting the enterprise alone, on my 
 own responsibility, and at my own expense. 
 
 The ship was long delayed for the stores necessary to complete 
 her cargo. The time was, however, fully occupied in collecting 
 materials and procuring information. One of the men engaged 
 was a mechanic, whose skill would be necessary in taking apart 
 and putting together the boats, which were made in sections. I 
 also had him instructed in blasting rocks, should such a process 
 become necessary to ensure the transportation of the boats across 
 the mountain ridges of Galilee and Judea. 
 
 Air-tight gum-elastic water and bread bags were also procured, 
 to be inflated when empty, for the purpose of serving as life-pre- 
 servers to the crews in the event of the destruction of the boats. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK. 27 
 
 Our arms consisted of a blunderbuss, fourteen carbines with 
 long bayonets, and fourteen pistols, four revolving and ten with 
 bowie-knife blades attached. Each officer carried his sword, and 
 all, officers and men, were provided with ammunition belts. 
 
 As taking the boats apart would be a novel experiment, which 
 might prove unsuccessful, I had two low trucks (or carnages with- 
 out bodies) made, for the purpose of endeavouring to transport 
 the boats entire from the Mediterranean to the Sea of Galilee. 
 The trucks, when fitted, were taken apart and compactly stowed 
 in the hold, together with two sets of harness for draught horses. 
 The boats, when complete, were hoisted in, and laid keel up on 
 a frame prepared for them ; and with arms, ammunition, instru- 
 ments, tents, flags, sails, oars, preserved meats, and a few cook- 
 ing utensils, our preparations were complete. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 FROM NEW YORK TO PORT MAHON. 
 
 All things being in readiness, on the 20th of November, 1847, 
 we dropped down from the Brooklyn Navy- Yard, abreast of the 
 Battery, and waited for a change of weather. 
 
 Friday, Nov. 26. At 10 A. M., weighed anchor, and, with 
 a fresh breeze from W. N. W., under a press of sail, we stood 
 down the bay of New York. Around us the ruffled water was 
 chequered with numerous sails, and the shadows of detached 
 clouds flitting before the keen and cutting wind, fit harbinger of 
 the coming frost. Before us, the " Narrows" opened into Rari- 
 tan Bay, and thence expanded into the wide-spread and magnifi- 
 cent ocean. 
 
 In a few hours, we passed the light -houses ; discharged the 
 pilot, and bracing our yards to the fresh and favouring breeze, 
 
28 PLEASING ANTICIPATION. 
 
 bade, as God in His mercy might decree, a temporary or a final 
 adieu to our native land. 
 
 Soon the low lands were sunk beneath the horizon, and at sun- 
 set the high lands of " Navesink" were alone visible above the 
 agitated surface of the water. The dry wind sweeping over the 
 land, which had been saturated by the rains of the two preceding 
 days, caused an evaporation so great as wonderfully to increase 
 the refraction. The setting sun, expanding as it dipped, and 
 varying its hues with its expansion, assumed forms as unique as 
 they were beautiful. Now elongated in its shape, and now flat- 
 tened at its ends, it would, at times, be disparted by the white 
 crest of an intervening wave, and present alternately the appear- 
 ance of golden cups and "balls, and jewelled censers, tossing 
 about upon a silver sea. As the minutes advanced, the western 
 sky, tint by tint, became one glorious suffusion of crimson and 
 orange, and the disc of the sun, flattening, widening, and be- 
 coming more ruddy and glowing as it descended, sunk at last, 
 like a globe of ruby in a sea of flame. 
 
 I took this as an auspicious omen, although we sailed on Fri- 
 day, the dreaded day of seamen. Why superstition should select 
 this day as an unlucky one, I cannot conceive. On the sixth 
 day, Friday, God created man and blessed him ; and on Friday, 
 the Redeemer died for man's salvation: on Friday, Columbus 
 sailed from Palos in quest of another world : on the same day of 
 the week, he saw the realization of his dream of life ; and returned 
 upon a Friday, to electrify Europe with the wondrous tidings of 
 his discovery. As a harbinger of good, therefore, and not of 
 evil, I hailed our departure upon this favoured day. 
 
 With the setting sun, all vestige of the land disappeared, and 
 nothing remained but a luminous point, which, from the solitary 
 light-ship, gleamed tremulously across the waters. As it sunk 
 beneath the waves, our last visible tie with the Western World 
 was severed. How gladly on our return, perchance a tempest- 
 uous night, shall we hail that light, which, flickering at first, but 
 at length steadfast and true, welcomes the weary wanderer to his 
 home! 
 
BEAUTIFUL NIGHT. 29 
 
 Without the least abatement of affection for, I turned with less 
 reluctance than ever from, the land of my nativity. The yearn- 
 ings of twenty years were about to be gratified. When a young 
 midshipman, almost the very least in the escort of the good La- 
 fayette across the ocean, my heart was prepared for its subsequent 
 aspirations. In truth, in our route across the Atlantic, in the 
 silent watches of the night, my mind, lost in contemplation, 
 soared from the deep through which we ploughed our way, to that 
 upper deep, gemmed with stars, revolving in their ceaseless round, 
 and from them to the Mighty Hand that made them; and my 
 previous desire to visit the land of the Iliad, of Alexander and 
 of Caesar, became merged in an insatiate yearning to look upon 
 the country which was the cradle of the human race, and the 
 theatre of the accomplishment of that race's mysterious destiny; 
 the soil hallowed by the footsteps, fertilized by the blood, and 
 consecrated by the tomb, of the Saviour. 
 
 Twice, since, at distant intervals, I contemplated making the 
 desired visit. But the imperative calls of duty in the first in- 
 stance, and a domestic calamity in the second, prevented me. 
 As I have before said, in the spring of the present year I asked 
 permission to visit the lands of the Bible, with the special purpose 
 of thoroughly exploring the Dead Sea; the extent, configuration, 
 and depression of which, are as much desiderata to science as its 
 miraculous formation, its mysterious existence, and the won- 
 drous traditions respecting it, are of thrilling interest to the Chris- 
 tian. 
 
 The same liberal spirit which decided that the expedition should 
 be undertaken, directed ample means to be furnished for its 
 equipment ; and with our boats, arms, ammunition and instru- 
 ments, I felt well prepared for the arduous but delightful task 
 before me. 
 
 The boats "Fanny Mason" and "Fanny Skinner," of nearly 
 equal dimensions, were named after two young and blooming 
 children, whose fathers were, in a measure, the patrons of the 
 expedition. And I trusted that, whether threading the rapids of 
 the Jordan, or floating on the wondrous sea of death, the " Two 
 3* 
 
30 THE AZORES. 
 
 Fannies" would not disgrace the gentle and artless beings whose 
 names they proudly bore. 
 
 Friday, Dec. 11. This morning, made the islands of Corvo 
 and Flores, the north-western most of the Azores, and by sunset 
 we had reached the meridian of Flores, its brown and furrowed 
 sides, undecked with a single flower, and giving no indication of 
 the origin of its name. Fearing that we should be "becalmed if we 
 ran to leeward of it, and the sea setting heavily upon Corvo, I 
 determined to run between them, although we had no chart of the 
 islands, and no one on board knew whether or not the passage 
 was practicable. To this, I was induced by two considerations : 
 In the first place, from the rounded summits of the islands, they 
 were evidently of volcanic origin, and shoals are rare in such vi- 
 cinities. In the second place, the sea ran so high, that it must 
 break over any intervening obstacle, and present a distinct and 
 prohibitory line of foam. We therefore stood boldly through, 
 and, as if to cheer us, the rays of the setting sun, intercepted 
 by a rain-cloud which had swept over us, arched the passage by 
 the best-defined and most vivid rainbow I have ever seen. It 
 was so striking, that every draughtsman on board was imme- 
 diately employed, endeavouring to catch the flitting beauties of 
 the scene. 
 
 By the time we reached the middle of the passage, the bow 
 had faded away with the setting sun, leaving the sky less brilliant, 
 but far more beautiful. In the east, directly ahead, rose the pla- 
 net Jupiter, lustrous as a diamond, cresting with his brilliant light 
 the line of vapour which skirted the horizon. Near the zenith, 
 shone the moon in her meridian ; lower down, the fiery Mars ; and 
 in the west, the beautiful Venus slowly descended, enveloped in 
 the golden hues of the sun, which had preceded her. The 
 gorgeous sun, the placid moon, the gem-like Jupiter, and the 
 radiant Venus, bespoke the enduring serenity and the joys of 
 Heaven; while the agitated sea, crested with foam, breaking 
 loudly on either shore, which, in the gathering dimness, seemed 
 in dangerous proximity, told of the anxieties and perils of this 
 transitory life. 
 
TRAFALGAR. 31 
 
 We passed through unimpeded, at a glorious rate, and the 
 next day, at 4 P. M., were abreast and in sight of the island 
 Graciosa, the last of the group in our line of route, its rude out- 
 lines dimly seen through its misty shroud. The barren faces of 
 these lofty islands present no indication of their fertility. They 
 abound, however, in cereal grains, and produce an excellent 
 wine, and are frequently resorted to by our whalers, and by 
 homeward-bound Indiamen, for supplies. 
 
 Friday, Dec. 17. Made Cape St. Vincent, the " Sacrum 
 Promontorium" of the Romans, and the south-western extremity 
 of vine-clad Portugal, as it is of Europe also. This is the second 
 time we have made land upon a Friday. 
 
 Sunday, Dec. 19. Made Cape Trafalgar, and sailed over the 
 scene of the great conflict between the fleet of England and the 
 combined fleets of France and Spain. Here were once heard 
 those sounds, frightful, yet stirring to the human heart, and ap- 
 palling to every other creature, — the shout of defiance, the shriek 
 of agony and the yell of despair, — and fish, and bird, and every 
 other living thing fled precipitately from the scene, leaving man, 
 the monarch of creation, to slay his fellow-man, the image of his 
 august Creator! Such is battle! and he who rushes into it, im- 
 pelled by other than the highest motives, perils, more than life in 
 the encounter. It is a glorious privilege to fight for one's coun- 
 try ; but the seaman or the soldier who strikes for lucre or ambition, 
 is an unworthy combatant. 
 
 4 P. M. Anchored immediately abreast of the town of Gib- 
 raltar. 
 
 The rock of Gibraltar, abrupt on its western side, and on the 
 other absolutely precipitous, has a summit line, sharp and rug- 
 ged, terminating with a sheer descent on its northern face, and 
 sloping gradually to Europa point at its south extreme. From an 
 angle of the bay, this rock, 1400 feet high and three miles long, 
 presents the exact appearance of a couchant lion ; — his fore-paws 
 gathered beneath him, his massive, shaggy head towards Spain, 
 his fretted mane bristling against the sky, and his long and 
 sweeping tail resting upon the sea. 
 
32 BOUND FOR SMYRNA. 
 
 The entire water front of the bay is one continuous line of 
 ramparts, and, from numerous apertures, the brazen mouths of 
 artillery proclaim the invincible hold of its present possessors. It 
 is said, that there is not one spot in the bay, on which at least 
 one hundred cannon cannot be brought to bear. Its northern 
 face, too, is excavated, and two tiers of chambers are pierced 
 with embrasures, through which heavy pieces of ordnance point 
 along the neutral ground upon the Spanish barrier. This neutral 
 ground, a narrow isthmus, at its junction with the rock, but soon 
 spreading out into a flat, sandy plain, separates, by about half a 
 mile, the respective jurisdictions of Great Britain and Spain. 
 
 Sailing from Gibraltar, we arrived at Port Mahon, after a bois- 
 terous passage of eight days ; and w T ere there detained a month, 
 delivering stores to the squadron. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 PORT MAHON TO SMYRNA. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 4th. At midnight left the harbour of Mahon 
 with a light but favourable wind. Our stay had been so pro- 
 tracted that we gladly hailed the familiar sight of a boundless 
 horizon before us. We had all become somewhat impatient of 
 the many causes of detention that had interfered with our depart- 
 ure ; and were, of course, proportionately elated when at length 
 we were again careering over the blue waves of the Mediterranean. 
 
 The breeze freshened as the night wore on, and we wended 
 joyfully on our way, each congratulating the other on the pros- 
 pect of a speedy disembarcation. The next day we passed south 
 of Sardinia ; and the morning after made the Island, of Maritimo, 
 and beyond it could see the blue outlines of Sicily. The day 
 was at first clear and beautiful, but, with the ascending sun, a 
 
THE GRECIAN ISLES, 
 
 33 
 
 dim vapour spread along the sky, and, wafted by the wind, like 
 a misty shroud, enveloped the larger island. To the eye, all was 
 serene and peaceful, but beneath that veil, the myrmidons of 
 power and the asserters of human rights were engaged in deadly 
 conflict. The Sicilian revolution had begun. Its end, who 
 could foresee? 
 
 P. M. Passed the island of Pantellaria, the Botany Bay of Na- 
 ples and Sicily, and accounted by some to be the Isle of Calypso. 
 
 At early daylight, the Islands of Gozo (the true Calypso) and 
 of Malta were directly before us. To the eye they presented the 
 barren aspect of rugged brown rocks, their surfaces unrelieved by 
 tree or verdure ; and the houses, built of the same material, and 
 covered with tile, rather added to, than varied, the tiresome uni- 
 formity of the scene. 
 
 With a fresh and favourable wind, we sailed along the abrupt 
 and precipitous shores, and came to anchor in the famous port of 
 Valetta. Three promontories, their summits fretted with artil- 
 lery, frown down upon the triune harbour. Along the city walls, 
 from Castle Ovo to the extreme point on the right, are lines of 
 fortifications, relieved here and there by some towering Saracenic 
 structure, presenting, in graceful contrast, 
 
 " The Moorish window and the massive wall." 
 
 Here, too, has Napoleon been ! From Moscow to Cairo, where 
 has he not ? 
 
 As we were not admitted to pratique, we saw nothing more of 
 Malta, but left it at sunset. Having once before been there, I 
 bear in vivid remembrance her many scenes teeming with interest. 
 The bay and the cave, spots consecrated by the shipwreck and 
 the miraculous preservation of the great Apostle of the Gentiles : 
 her armory, with its shields and swords, and her rare and exqui- 
 site gardens. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 12. At daylight, made the Island of Cerigo, 
 the ancient Cythera, upon which was wafted, at her birth, the 
 Goddess of Love and Beauty. It is also reputed to have been 
 the birth-place of Helen, the frail heroine of the Trojan war 
 
34 GREECE. 
 
 Passing under easy sail, between Cerigo and Ovo, leaving 
 Candia (ancient Crete) to the south, we entered the blue Egean, 
 and had the group of the Cyclades before us as we turned to 
 the north. In the course of the day we saw Milo, famed for its 
 spacious harbour and its excellent wine ; Paros for its marble 
 quarries, and Anti-Paros for its celebrated grotto, deemed one of 
 the wonders of the world. 
 
 Sailing through the Sporadic group, we passed the Gulf of 
 Athens, and saw Cape Colonna, (ancient promontory of Sunium,) 
 where Plato taught, and where are the ruins of a temple of Minerva. 
 
 Greece ! poetic Greece ! but that my soul is engrossed by one 
 pervading thought, how I would love to visit thy shores ! How 
 have I loved to follow the muse in this favoured land ! How 
 delighted to pursue the arts, and trace the history of this wonder- 
 ful people ! How admired the chaste philosophy of Greece, 
 springing with Corinthian beauty into life, amid the storms of 
 sedition, and bending, like the brilliant Iris, her beautiful bow 
 in the clouds which had overshadowed her sleeping oracles ! The 
 bold and inquisitive spirit of Grecian philosophy could not be fet- 
 tered by a loose and voluptuous religion, however graceful in its 
 structure and poetical in its conceptions. Grecian philosophy, 
 reflecting the early rays of revelation, more powerful than the Ti- 
 tans, scaled the pagan Heaven, and overthrew its multitude of 
 gods. 
 
 Did time permit, how would I love to look upon the Piraeus 
 and the Acropolis ! Upon the place where Socrates, in the dis- 
 pensation of a wise Providence, was permitted to shake the pillars 
 of Olympus, and where the Apostle of Truth, in the midst of 
 crumbling shrines and silenced deities, proclaimed to the Athe- 
 nians the Unknown God, whom, with divided glory, they had so 
 long worshipped in vain. 
 
 Continuing our route through the Sporades, between Ipsari, and 
 Scio of sad celebrity, we rounded, on the morning of the 15th, 
 the promontory of Bouroun, and entered the Gulf of Smyrna. 
 
 P. M. By a sudden transition from the fresh head-wind with- 
 out, we were now floating upon the placid bosom of a beautiful 
 
SMYRNA. 35 
 
 bay, with our wing-like sails spread to a light and favouring 
 breeze. 
 
 Far beyond the shore, might be seen the snowy crest of the 
 Mysian Olympus. We passed in sight of the first Turkish town, 
 with its little cubes of flat-roofed houses, and its groves and trees, 
 so refreshing to the eye after the Grecian isles, all brown and 
 barren. It was the ancient Phocoea. 
 
 The bay was dotted with the numerous sails of the feluccas, 
 outward and inward bound. As we passed, the bay of Vourla 
 opened on our right, — and on the left, were some remarkable 
 green hills, — and beyond them, a long, very long, low track, 
 with a barely visible assemblage of white dots beyond. It was 
 Ismir ! Infidel Ismir ! Christian Smyrna ! The setting sun em- 
 purpled the neighbouring mountains, gilding here and shadowing 
 there, in one soft yet glorious hue, lending a characteristic en- 
 chantment to our first view of an Oriental city. 
 
 The wind failing, we anchored about eight miles from Smyrna, 
 near Agamemnon's wells. Abreast, was fort Sanjak Salassi, with 
 its little turrets and big port-holes, even with the ground, whence 
 protruded the cavernous throats of heavy guns, entirely dispropor- 
 tioned to the scale of the fortifications. 
 
 The next day, sailed up and anchored abreast of the city. 
 
 We landed and passed into the streets, the narrow, winding 
 ways of Smyrna. How strange everything seems ! After all one 
 has fancied of an eastern city, how different is the reality ! The 
 streets are very narrow and dark, and filled with a motley and, in 
 general, a dirty population — passing to and fro, or sitting in 
 their stalls, for they deserve no better name. Greeks, Armenians, 
 and Jews, seem to prevail. 
 
 But the most striking living feature of the east is the long 
 strings of camels, huge, meek-looking beasts, with long necks 
 and small projecting heads, tramping along under enormous loads, 
 with their great pulpy, India-rubber splay feet, threatening to bear 
 down everything in their onward march. Again and again we 
 were compelled to slip into the open stalls to avoid being crushed. 
 At length we adopted the precaution of each one keeping under 
 
36 ENVIRONS OF SMYRNA. 
 
 the lee, as sailors term it, of a heavy-laden camel, for it was not 
 only necessary to avoid the camels and little donkeys, but also 
 dirty, ragged, staggering, overladen porters, whose touch threat- 
 ened not only to communicate the plague, but also whole detach- 
 ments of the insect tribes of Egypt. 
 
 The city of Smyrna, so inviting in its exterior, is crowded, 
 dirty, and unprepossessing within. The houses, excepting those 
 on the Marina, or Water front, rarely exceed one story in height, 
 and are dingy and mean ; and the very mosques, so imposing 
 from without, fall far short of the conceptions of the visitant. 
 
 The River Meles, sacred to Homer, in winter a foaming torrent, 
 but in summer scarce a flowing stream, runs in a northerly direc- 
 tion, along the eastern limits of the city. On the line of travel to 
 the East, it is spanned by the caravan bridge, the great halting- 
 place of returning and departing caravans. As we saw it, the 
 river was a shallow stream, not half filling the space between the 
 widely separate d^banks. Kneeling on the sands, on each side of 
 the river, above and below the bridge, were many hundreds of 
 camels, with their heavy packs beside them. It was the hour of 
 feeding, and, arranged with their heads in the centres of circles, 
 of which their tails formed the peripheries, without noise, they 
 ate the dry straw which was placed before them. While we 
 looked on, the hour elapsed, and the burdens were replaced on 
 the backs of the patient animals. Although constituting a number 
 of separate caravans, they were all, evidently, subject to the same 
 regulations. At a given signal, they slowly raised first one foot 
 and then another from beneath them, and then, with a peculiar 
 cry, plaintive yet discordant, jerked themselves, as it were, to an 
 erect position. The turbaned drivers, the uncouth, patient cam- 
 els, and the tinkling bells, formed a scene truly Asiatic. 
 
 The country around Smyrna is highly cultivated, and the be- 
 nignant soil and genial climate amply repay the toil of the hus- 
 bandman. Less productive of the cereal grains, its vintage and 
 its crops of fruit are most superior and abundant. Except the 
 mountain sides, which are sparsely covered with brushwood, the 
 frequent groves of cypress, each denoting a burial-place, and the 
 
DEPARTURE FROM SMYRNA. 37 
 
 clusters of orange trees around the villas of the wealthy, the surface 
 of the country is thickly dotted with the olive and the almond, 
 the mulberry and the fig-tree. Smyrna is particularly celebrated 
 for an exquisitely flavoured and seedless grape, and for the supe- 
 rior quality of its figs. 
 
 It is also one of the claimants for the birth-place of Homer, the 
 blind old bard, whose fame was purely posthumous ! The Grecian 
 virgins scattered garlands throughout the seven islands of Greece 
 upon the turf, beneath which were supposed to lie the remains 
 of him, who wandered in penury and obscurity through life, or 
 only sang passages of his divine poem at the festive board of his 
 contemporaries. We were shown his cave — but I will no longer 
 trust myself to speak of him, whom 
 
 "I feelj but want the power to paint." 
 
 We also visited Diana's bath, whence Acteon's hounds, like many 
 a human ingrate after them, pursued and tore the hand that had 
 caressed them. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SMYRNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 18. At 5, P.M., embarked in the Austrian 
 steamer "Prince Metternich," for Constantinople ; and sweeping 
 with great rapidity up the beautiful Gulf of Smyrna, early in 
 the night entered the channel of Mitylene, between the Island of 
 Mitylene (the ancient Lesbos) and the main. 
 
 As we advanced to the north, with the coast of Phrygia on the 
 right, we soon beheld that of Thrace in Europe before us, with 
 the islands of Lemnos and Imbros to seaward. Immediately on 
 the Phrygian shore, facing the broad expanse of the Mediterranean, 
 are two conspicuous tumuli, pointed out by tradition as the tombs 
 4 
 
38 THE HELLESPONT. 
 
 of Achilles and Patroclus. The requiem of the heroic friends is 
 sung by the surging waves, which break against the abrupt and 
 precipitous shore. 
 
 Turning to the east, we rounded Cape Janissary (the Sigsean 
 Promontory), and entering the strait, saw the supposed bed of 
 the Scamander, between which and the promontory, the Grecian 
 fleet was hauled up, and the Grecian hosts encamped. A little 
 beyond, is another barrow, said to be that of Hecuba ; yet further 
 is the Rhaitian promontory, on which also is a mound, called the 
 tomb of Ajax. 
 
 The plain of Troy, so familiar to every classic reader, now 
 barren and unattractive, save in its associations, presents nothing 
 to the eye until it rests upon Mount Olympus in the distance ; 
 and the imagination, fixing upon the spot where 
 
 "Silver Simois and Scamander join," 
 
 fills the circumjacent plain with the lofty towers of " wide extended 
 Troy," the beleaguring hosts and their dismantled ships. Pass- 
 ing a point on the left, designated as the first in Europe whereon 
 was raised the banner of the Saracen, we came to that part of the 
 strait whence its other name of Hellespont is derived. 
 
 The Hellespont teems with more poetic and classic associations 
 than any other stream on earth. Its shores were the chosen scenes 
 of the greatest and most wondrous epic produced in any age or 
 clime; and, separating two great continents, its swollen and im- 
 petuous waters have been repeatedly crossed by invading armies ; 
 by two Persian monarchs, by Philip's warlike son, by the crusad- 
 ing hosts of Europe, and by the Muhammedan conqueror of 
 Constantinople. 
 
 Its rushing flood engulfed Leander within hearing, perhaps, of 
 the thrilling shriek of the watchful and agonized Hero : and it is left 
 to the imagination to decide whether the lover, paralyzed by fear, 
 yielded unresistingly, or, with all that he coveted on earth in view, 
 grappled with fate, and struggled manfully, until, with the water 
 drumming in his ear and gurgling in his throat, he sank beneath 
 the surface as the last heart-rending cry swept across the angry tide. 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 39 
 
 Here, too, turning from poetic fiction to prosaic fact, the noble 
 bard of England successfully rivalled the feat of Leander ; but for 
 his reward, instead of the arms of a blooming Hero, found him- 
 self grappled in the chill embrace of a tertian ague. 
 
 A little after sunset, we entered the sea of Marmara (White 
 Sea). The mists and clouds, which during the afternoon had 
 gathered on the hills of Thrace, were now sw T ept towards us, and 
 discharging copious showers as they passed, the sea and its sur- 
 rounding shores were soon shrouded in obscurity. 
 
 When we retired, we were told that the steamer would stop 
 until morning at the village of San Stefano, four leagues this side 
 of Constantinople, and we anticipated enjoying the matchless view 
 which this city is said to present from the sea of Marmara ; but a 
 bitter disappointment awaited us. On first awaking in the morn- 
 ing, we felt that the boat was not in motion, and hastening im- 
 mediately to the deck, discovered that we were anchored in the 
 " Golden Horn," or harbour of Constantinople. 
 
 On our left was the Seraglio, with the city of Stambohl 
 (or Constantinople proper) stretching to the north and west, 
 with a multitudinous collection of sombre houses, the dull, 
 brown surfaces of their tile-roofs interrupted by the swelling 
 domes of mosques, with their tall and graceful minarets beside 
 them. 
 
 The " Golden Horn," three miles in length, was filled with 
 ships and vessels of every class, and rig, and nation ; and hun- 
 dreds of light and buoyant caiques flitted to and fro among them. 
 In the far distance, above the two bridges, the upper one resting 
 on boats, flanking the harbour in an oblique line, were the heavy 
 ships of war of the Turkish fleet. To the right, on the opposite side 
 of the harbour, were the suburbs of Pera, Tophana, and Galata 
 (each of them elsewhere a city), with the tower of the last spring- 
 ing shaft-like to the skies. To the east, across the sea of Mar- 
 mara, where it receives the Bosporus, was the town of Scutari 
 (the ancient Chalcedon), where the fourth general council of the 
 Christian church was held. Near Scutari, is a spacious grove of 
 cypress, shading its million dead ; and a high mountain behind it 
 
40 BEAUTIFUL VIEW. 
 
 overlooks the cities, the harbour, the sea, the Bosporus, and the 
 surrounding country. 
 
 But, wearied with the very vastness of the field it is called upon 
 to admire, the eye reverts with renewed delight to the beautiful 
 point of the Seraglio. 
 
 A graceful sweep of palaces, light in their proportions and 
 oriental in their structure, washed by the waters of the Sea of 
 Marmara and the " Golden Horn," look far up the far-famed 
 Bosporus. Here and there, upon the ascending slope, clustering 
 in one place, and dispersedly in another, many a cypress shoots 
 up its dark-green, pyramidal head, between the numerous and 
 variegated roofs. The shaft-like form of the minaret seems to 
 have been borrowed from the cypress, and they both exquisitely 
 harmonize with oriental architecture. On the summit is a mag- 
 nificent mosque, its roof a rounded surface of domes, the central 
 and largest covered with bronze, and glittering in the sun, with a 
 light and graceful minaret springing from each angle of its court. 
 The pen cannot describe, nor the pencil paint, the beauties of the 
 scene : I will not, therefore, attempt it. 
 
 It is said, but untruly, that the slave-market of Constantinople 
 has been abolished. An edict, it is true, was some years since 
 promulgated, which declared the purchase and sale of slaves to 
 be unlawful. The prohibition, however, is only operative against 
 the Franks, under which term the Greeks are included. White 
 male slaves are purchased for adopted sons, and female ones for 
 wives or adopted daughters. Nubians are bought as slaves, to 
 serve the allotted term. Young females, of the principal families 
 of Georgia or Circassia, are often entrusted to commissioners, 
 who are responsible for their respectful treatment. They are only 
 purchased with their own consent, and when so purchased, are 
 recognised by the Muhammedan law as wives; the portion is 
 settled upon them by law, and if the husband misuses them, or 
 proves unfaithful, they can sue for divorce, and recover dowry. 
 But, unfortunately, the husband has the power to divorce at will, 
 without resorting to any tribunal; and the words, "I divorce 
 you," from his lips, are, to the poor woman, the sentence of dis- 
 
THE SLAVE-MARKET. 41 
 
 missal from her husband's roof, and from the presence of her 
 children. If dismissed without good cause, however, she has a 
 right to dowry, but is ever after debarred from appeasing that 
 mighty hunger of the heart, the yearning of a mother for her 
 children. 
 
 The female slaves, bought for servitude, are subject to the wife, 
 and not to the husband. He has no property in them, but is 
 bound to protect and to aid them in their settlement. 1 The males 
 rise in condition with their masters: several pashas have been 
 bondmen, and Seraskier Pasha was once a Georgian slave. 
 
 In a ramble to and from the slave-market, I saw two females, 
 whose lots in life are now widely different. The first was a Cir- 
 cassian slave, young and interesting, but by no means beautiful, 
 attired plainly in the Turkish costume, and her features exposed 
 by the withdrawal of the yashmak. She walked a few paces 
 behind her owner, who passed to and fro about the market. 
 Stopping occasionally, and again renewing his walk, he neither 
 by word nor gesture sought to attract a customer. When he was 
 accosted, she quietly, but not sadly, submitted to the inspection, 
 and listened in silence, and without perceptible emotion, to the 
 interrogatories of the probable customer. 
 
 The second female to whom I have alluded was an Armenian 
 bride being escorted to the residence of her husband. There 
 were three arabas, or clumsy carriages of the country, drawn by 
 two oxen each. On the backs of the oxen were four or five stakes 
 diverging outwards, like radii from a centre, with long hearse-like 
 purple plumes drooping from them. The panels of the second 
 araba were richly carved and blazoned, and its roof was supported 
 on upright gilt columns, with richly embroidered curtains, and 
 fringes of silk. The concave bottom had no seats, but was cov- 
 ered with cushions, upon which, at half-length reclined the bride, 
 with a female attendant beside her. The former was gorgeously 
 dressed, but her head and its appendage riveted my attention. 
 
 1 "And when thou sendest him out from thee, thou shalt not let him 
 go away empty." — Deut. xv. 13. 
 
 4* 
 
42 AN ARMENIAN BRIDE. 
 
 From it hung a veil (I can call it nothing else), composed of long 
 strings of bright gold beads, spanning from temple to temple, and 
 reaching from the forehead to the waist. With the motion of the 
 araba, it swayed to and fro in gently waving lines, but with- 
 out disparting, and my strained vision could not penetrate the 
 costly screen. I have heard of the man in the iron mask, but 
 never before of a woman in a golden one. 
 
 The husband, who is yet as ignorant as myself, may, like the 
 Prince of Arragon, find only the blank countenance of a blinking 
 idiot beneath it, and discover, when too late, that the 
 
 u Beauteous scarf 
 Veils but an Indian beauty." 
 
 They were both destined victims to the matrimonial customs of 
 the country ; and perhaps the sacrifice of the poor Circassian may 
 not be more venal than the mercenary marriage of the other. 
 
 The conditions of the two females are now widely different ; 
 but, such are the peculiar customs of this people, that it is by no 
 means impossible, indeed is far within the range of probability, 
 that the slave of whom I have spoken, may yet be elevated to a 
 sphere more exalted than that of the wealthy Armenian. If every 
 good has its attendant evil, every evil has its antidote ; and in this 
 clime of despotism the fetters of slavery are less galling than in 
 our own more favoured land. The slave has here a voice in his 
 own disposal, and his consent is necessary to make a transfer 
 legal. The female slave therefore may, and doubtless does reject 
 the ill-favoured or tyrannical, and yield her assent only to the 
 comely or the wealthy purchaser, perchance a bey or a pasha, 
 and become the favourite wife of a future governor of an extensive 
 province. 
 
 On the Asiatic shore of the Bosporus, is a rude granite column 
 upon a projecting point, which indicates the last encampment of 
 ten thousand Russians, on the march to succour Constantinople, 
 when threatened by Mehemet Ali, of Egypt. 
 
 When Constantinople was rescued from the clutches of this 
 rebellious pasha by the interposition of the European powers, he 
 
INVASION FROM RUSSIA. 43 
 
 came as a tributary to render homage to the sultan. While here, 
 he selected, as the site of the palace he was required to build, the 
 promontory immediately below and in full sight of the one upon 
 which the Russian column is erected, as if to intimate to posterity 
 that if the Russians came thus far, he had preceded them, and that 
 it was the fear of him that brought them. 
 
 These are ominous signs, the first especially ; for, if a Russian 
 army can so speedily and unexpectedly (it came without a sum- 
 mons) reach the environs of Constantinople, what is to prevent 
 the same rapid movement of a hostile and yet more powerful 
 force ? Of their danger the Turks are well aware, but instead of 
 preparing to resist, in the spirit of fatalism they supinely await the 
 dread event. There isia tradition among them that they are to 
 be driven from Europe by a light-haired race from the north, and 
 their fears have settled upon the Russians. The prediction will 
 work its own accomplishment : the unhappy presentiment of the 
 Turk, (for the feeling amounts to such,) will be more than em- 
 battled hosts against him, and the dispassionate observer can 
 already predict not only his expulsion from Europe, but the down- 
 fall of the Ottoman empire. The handwriting is on the wall, and 
 it needs not a Daniel to interpret it. Under present auspices, 
 this country must before long attain her destiny; and her decline 
 and fall will add another to the many lessons of experience, to in- 
 struct future generations and furnish additional proof of the per- 
 ishable nature of all human institutions. Could Christianity but 
 shed its benign influence over this misguided people, their national 
 existence might be prolonged, and the sad catastrophe averted. 
 One crying evil pervades the land, and while it exists, there can 
 be no hope. 
 
 In this country, from the hovel to the palace, woman is in a state 
 of domestic servitude. It is unnecessary to dwell upon the de- 
 gradation of the female sex here, in India, and among all barbar- 
 ous nations. The fact is clearly established, that everywhere, in 
 all nations and among every people beyond the pale of Chris- 
 tianity, woman is deplorably debased. Christianity has ever 
 expressed the deepest solicitude for the female sex ; for the 
 
44 WOMAN'S INFLUENCE. 
 
 inordinate authority of man over woman, or the undue subjection 
 of the female to the male, tends to the debasement of the morals 
 of each. Woman, even when invested with the plenitude of her 
 rights and mistress of her own actions, is but too often the feeble 
 victim of the seducements which surround her. How utterly- 
 helpless is she, therefore, when her will is not her own ! The 
 very idea of resistance vanishes, vice becomes a seeming duty, 
 and man, gradually debased by the facility with which his irre- 
 gular appetites are indulged, plunges into the lowest depths of 
 sensuality. Woman, whose influence over the heart of man is 
 irresistible, whenever she is debased, revisits her corruption upon 
 man : and thus this pervading influence of the sexes over each 
 other, by a species of mutual contamination, moves from genera- 
 tion to generation in one vicious circle, from which they can 
 only be delivered by the supernatural and refining influence of 
 Christianity. 
 
 Christianity acts first upon woman, because, from the gentleness 
 and tractability of her nature, she is more susceptible of the 
 influence of its law of purity and love ; and when she is thus 
 regenerated, who shall declare the extent of her chastening influ- 
 ence over the sons of the children of men? Under the elevating 
 and benign influences of Christianity, she proceeds to subdue, to 
 reform, to ennoble, and perfect everything around her ; and, by 
 this supernatural power, she so softens the affections and refines the 
 feelings of the lord of creation, as to dispose him to prefer the 
 purity and confidence of domestic love, to the selfish and utter 
 isolation of a life of sensual indulgence. 
 
 But, alas! Christianity, all lovely and gentle as she is, can find 
 no entrance here; for bigotry, with sneering lip and contracted 
 brow, stands at the portal. 
 
VISIT TO THE SULTAN. 45 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE, AND VOYAGE TO SYRIA. 
 
 The application for a firman in behalf of a national expedition, 
 being considered unusual, was referred by the Divan for the de- 
 cision of the monarch, and I had, by appointment, an audience 
 with the sultan. Accompanied by the Dragoman of our legation, 
 I took a caique, and proceeded three miles up the Bosporus, to 
 the palace of " Cherighan." 
 
 We landed at the palace stairs, and leaving our overshoes, 
 which etiquette required us to bring, we ascended a broad and 
 lofty flight of stairs, and passing through an ante-chamber, were 
 ushered into a room which overlooked the Bosporus, and was 
 occupied by Sheffie Bey, the chief and confidential secretary of 
 the sultan. It was handsomely furnished, but no more. 
 
 With the secretary, was an Armenian, a great favourite of the 
 monarch, and superintendent of the public works in and near 
 Constantinople. 
 
 Shortly after we were seated, as many pipe-bearers as there 
 were visiters entered the apartment, and, with heads bowed down 
 and their left hands upon their breasts, presented each of us with 
 a chibouque ; then retiring backwards a few paces, dropped on 
 one knee, and lifting the bowl of the pipe, placed a gilt or golden 
 saucer (I could not tell which) beneath it. 
 
 I am not a smoker, and hold, with King James I., that 
 
 u If there be any herb, in any place, 
 Most opposite to God's herb of grace," 
 
 it is tobacco ; but as an opportunity of inhaling the odour of the 
 weed of royalty might never again present itself, my inclinations 
 jumped accordant with the rules of etiquette, and I puffed away 
 with as much vivacity as any Turk, 
 
46 
 
 In a short time the attendants reappeared, one of them bearing 
 a golden salver, covered with a crimson cloth, gorgeously em- 
 broidered. The latter was presently withdrawn, and exhibited 
 upon the massive piece of plate a number of tiny coffee-cups, set 
 in stands or holders, in shape exactly like the egg-cups we use at 
 home. The cups were of the choicest porcelain, most beauti- 
 fully enamelled, and the holders were rich filagree gold, set with 
 turquoise and emerald. 
 
 Again an attendant approached each of us, and in the same 
 manner as before, presented a cup of coffee. Like the tobacco, 
 it was flavoured with some aromatic substance, which rendered it 
 delicious. 
 
 The empty cups and exhausted pipes were removed by the 
 attendants, who, in all their approaches and retirings, were care- 
 ful not to turn their backs upon us. Observing this, I began to 
 distrust my ability to make a retrograde movement in a direct 
 line, from the sublime presence into which I was about to be 
 ushered. 
 
 One of the pashas had preceded me, and I was compelled to 
 wait nearly half an hour. At length, we were summoned. De- 
 scending the flight of stairs, and resuming our overshoes, we 
 were led across the court, into which, when passing in a caique a 
 few days before, I had looked so eagerly. It is oblong, and con- 
 tains about four acres, laid out in parterres and gravel walks, with 
 many young and thrifty trees, and a great variety of plants: flow- 
 ers there were few, for it was yet early in the season. In the 
 centre, with a gravelled walk between, were two quadrangular, 
 artificial ponds, in which a number of gold and silver fish were 
 gambolling in security, protected as they were from the talons of 
 the cormorant by nets drawn over a few feet above the surface of 
 the water. 
 
 The fish sporting beneath, the bird of prey poised above, ready 
 for a swoop through the first rent of the flimsy screen, seemed 
 fitting emblems of the feeble Turk, and the vigorous and grasp- 
 ing Russian. 
 
 There was nothing imposing, but all was rich and in exquisite 
 
A POINT OF ETIQUETTE. 47 
 
 taste. The bronze gates, with alternate gilt bars, which open on 
 the Bosporus between the centre building and the northern wing, 
 were exceedingly light and beautiful. A part of the court, most 
 probably that appropriated to the harem, or apartments of the 
 women, was screened off by a lofty railing of like material and 
 construction. 
 
 We were led to the entrance of the southern wing, and again 
 throwing off our overshoes, entered a lofty and spacious hall, 
 matted throughout, with two broad flights of stairs ascending 
 from the far extreme to an elevated platform or landing, whence, 
 uniting in one, they issued upon the floor above. 
 
 On the right and left of the hall were doors opening into va- 
 rious apartments, and there were a number of officers and attend- 
 ants on either side and stationed at intervals along the stairway, 
 all preserving a silence the most profound. 
 
 The secretary, who had gone before, now approached and 
 beckoned us to follow. But here an unexpected difficulty was 
 presented. The chamberlain in w T aiting objected to my sword, 
 and required that I should lay it aside. I replied that the audience 
 was given to me as an officer of the United States ; that the sword 
 was part of my uniform, and that I could not dispense w T ith it. 
 My refusal met with the assurance that the etiquette of the court 
 peremptorily required it. I asked if the custom had been inva- 
 riably complied with, and inquired of the dragoman whether Mr. 
 Carr, our minister, had, in conformity w T ith it, ever attended an 
 audience without his sword ; but even as I spoke, my mind, with- 
 out regard to precedent, had come to the alternative, no sword, 
 no audience. 
 
 Whether the secretary had, during the discussion, referred the 
 matter to a higher quarter, I could not tell; for my attention 
 was so engrossed for some minutes, that I had not noticed him. 
 He now came forward, however, and decided that I should retain 
 the sword. At this, I truly rejoiced, for it would have been un- 
 pleasant to retire after having gone so far. It is due to Mr. 
 Brown, the dragoman, to say that he sustained me. 
 
 The discussion at an end, we ascended the stairway, which 
 
48 PRESENCE OF THE SULTAN. 
 
 was covered with a good and comfortable but not a costly carpet, 
 and passed into a room more handsomely furnished and more 
 lofty, but in every other respect of the same dimensions as the 
 one immediately below it. A rich carpet was upon the floor, a 
 magnificent chandelier, all crystal and gold, was suspended from 
 the ceiling, and costly divans and tables, with other articles of 
 furniture, were interspersed about the room ; but I had not time 
 to note them, for on the left hung a gorgeous crimson velvet cur- 
 tain, embroidered and fringed with gold, and towards it the sec- 
 retary led the way. His countenance and his manner exhibited 
 more awe than I had ever seen depicted in the human counte- 
 nance. He seemed to hold his breath, and his step was so soft 
 and stealthy that once or twice I stopped, under the impression 
 that I had left him behind, but found him ever beside me. There 
 were three of us in close proximity, and the stairway was lined 
 with officers and attendants, but such was the death-like stillness 
 that I could distinctly hear my own footfall, which, unaccustomed 
 to palace regulations, fell with untutored republican firmness upon 
 the royal floor. If it had been a wild beast slumbering in his 
 lair that we were about to visit, there could not have been a 
 silence more deeply hushed. 
 
 Fretted at such abject servility, I quickened my pace towards 
 the curtain, when Sheffie Bey, rather gliding than stepping before 
 me, cautiously and slowly raised a corner for me to pass. Won- 
 dering at his subdued and terror-stricken attitude, I stepped 
 across the threshold, and felt without yet perceiving it, that I was 
 in the presence of the Sultan. 
 
 The heavy folds of the window-curtains so obscured the light, 
 that it seemed as if the day were drawing to a close instead of 
 being at its high meridian. 
 
 As with the expanding pupil the eye took in surrounding ob- 
 jects, the apartment, its furniture and its royal tenant, presented 
 a different scene from what, if left to itself, the imagination would 
 have drawn. 
 
 The room, less spacious, but as lofty as the adjoining one, was 
 furnished in the modern European style, and like a familiar thing, 
 
THESULTAN. 49 
 
 a stove stood nearly in the centre. On a sofa, by a window, 
 through which he might have looked upon us as we crossed the 
 court, with a crimson tarbouch, its gold button and blue silk tassel 
 on his head, a black kerchief around his neck, and attired in a 
 blue military frock and pantaloons, and polished French boots 
 upon his feet, the monarch sat, without any of the attributes of 
 sovereignty about him. 
 
 A man, young in years, but evidently of impaired and delicate 
 constitution, his wearied and spiritless air was unrelieved by any 
 indication of intellectual energy. He eyed me fixedly as I 
 advanced, and on him my gaze was no less intently riveted. 
 As he smiled, I stopped, expecting that he was about to speak, 
 but he motioned gently with his hand for me to approach yet 
 nearer. Through the interpreter, he then bade me welcome, for 
 which I expressed my acknowledgments. 
 
 The interview was not a protracted one. In the course of it, 
 as requested by Mr. Carr, I presented him, in the name of the 
 President of the United States, with some biographies and prints, 
 illustrative of the character and habits of our North American In- 
 dians, the work of American artists. He looked at some of them, 
 which were placed before him by an attendant, and said that he 
 considered them as evidences of the advancement of the United 
 States in civilization, and would treasure them as a souvenir of 
 the good feeling of its government towards him. At the word 
 " civilization," pronounced in French, I started : for it seemed 
 singular, coming from the lips of a Turk, and applied to our coun- 
 try. I have since learned that he is but a student in French, and 
 presume that, by the word "civilization," he meant the arts and 
 sciences. 
 
 When about to take my leave, he renewed his welcome, and 
 said that I had his full authority to see anything in Stambhol I 
 might desire. 
 
 My feelings saddened as I looked upon the monarch, and I 
 
 thought of Montezuma. Evidently, like a northern clime, his 
 
 year of life had known two seasons only, and he had leaped at 
 
 once from youth to imbecility. His smile was one of the sweetest 
 
 5 
 
50 OFFER OF THE SULTAN. 
 
 I had ever looked upon, — his voice among the most melodious 1 
 had ever heard ; his manner was gentleness itself, and everything 
 about him bespoke a kind and amiable disposition. He is said 
 to be very affectionate, to his mother in especial, and is generous 
 to the extreme of prodigality. But there is that indescribably sad 
 expression in his countenance, which is thought to indicate an 
 early death. A presentiment of the kind, mingled perhaps with 
 a boding fear of the overthrow of his country, seems to pervade 
 and depress his spirits. In truth, like Damocles, this descendant 
 of the Caliphs sits beneath a suspended fate. Through him, the 
 souls of the mighty monarchs who have gone before, seem to 
 brood over the impending fate of an empire which once extended 
 from the Atlantic to the Ganges, from the Caucasus to the Indian 
 Ocean. 
 
 Returning from the room of audience to that of the secretary, 
 we were again presented with pipes, and, instead of coffee, sher- 
 bet was handed round ; a drink so cool and so delicious, that my 
 unaccustomed palate treasures its flavour in grateful remembrance. 
 One circumstance occurred to me as singular. Neither on the 
 palace stairs, nor in the court, nor in the palace itself, did I see a 
 single soldier ; and, but for the obsequiousness of the Sultan's 
 officers and attendants, I might have fancied myself on a visit to 
 a wealthy private gentleman. 
 
 One trifling circumstance will serve to show the generous dis- 
 position of the Sultan. On the day succeeding the audience, he 
 expressed to the Grand Vizier his desire to tender me a present, 
 such as became a sovereign to make, and directed him to ascer- 
 tain in what mode it would be most acceptable to myself. When 
 his wish was made known to me, I replied, that I felt sufficiently 
 compensated by an audience, which, I had been given to under- 
 stand, was never before granted to any but officers of the highest 
 rank ; and that, even if the constitution of my country did not 
 prohibit it, I could not accept a remuneration for an act of duty 
 that had been rendered so grateful in its performance. I furthei 
 added, that more than any present, I would prize the granting of 
 the firman. 
 
TURKISH REFORMS. 51 
 
 My instructions from the Navy Department, when I left the 
 United States, were to apply, through our Minister at the Ottoman 
 Porte, for a firman, authorising our party to pass through the 
 Turkish dominions, in Syria, to the Dead Sea. It was asked as 
 a matter of respect to the Turkish government, and to procure 
 facilities from its officials, when in their vicinities. As to protec- 
 tion against the Arabs, it could afford none whatever ; for Eastern 
 travellers well know that, ten miles east of a line drawn from 
 Jerusalem to Nabulus, the tribes roam uncontrolled, and rob and 
 murder with impunity. Mr. Carr fully carried out the instructions 
 he had received, and did his best to procure the firman. 
 
 Before leaving Constantinople, in part with the officers, in part 
 alone, I visited some of the principal mosques, the seraglio, the 
 arsenal, and the fleet, and found that the permission given by the 
 Sultan was not an idle compliment. 
 
 Whether the efforts made by the late Sultan, and now making 
 by Abd' al Medjid, his successor, will result in the civilization or 
 the downfall of the Ottoman Empire, remains to be determined. 
 From the eager employment of Franks, the introduction of foreign 
 machinery, and the adoption of improved modes of cultivating 
 the land, the present Sultan gives the strongest assurance of his 
 anxiety to promote the welfare of his people. But the very 
 attempt at a higher development of national character, has led to 
 greater military weakness ; and the fable of the Wolf and the 
 Lamb, its actors represented by Russia and the Porte, will ere 
 long be transferred to the page of history. 
 
 All good Muslims go to mosque on Fridays, besides praying 
 five times a day. The Sultan goes every Friday to a different 
 mosque, which is known beforehand. For the purpose of seeing 
 his sublime majesty in public, we went to the convent of dervishes 
 in Pera, where he was to be present. A small collection of the 
 faithful had assembled in the court of the mosque, together with 
 many Greeks, Armenians, and Franks. The convent is a mean- 
 looking building, in the rear of a street of small shops and cafe's, 
 with a neglected burial-ground in front and beside it. None 
 but the faithful being permitted to enter a mosque when the 
 
52 THE TURKISH WOMEN. 
 
 Sultan attends, we were constrained to remain in the court, taking 
 our position near the entrance. At the gate of the adjoining 
 grave-yard were a number of females, forming a separate crowd 
 of yashmaks and gay-coloured ferajes, with black eyes and henna- 
 stained fingers. 
 
 Here it is not the custom for men to notice, much less speak 
 to, women in public ; and yet the constant presence of Turkish 
 women in the streets and public places, shows that they are 
 prone to gad about as much as some of their Christian sisters in 
 America ; but, if restricted from the use of that little instrument 
 the tongue, they contrive to do considerable execution with their 
 almond-shaped eyes, inky eyebrows, and half- an- alabaster nose, 
 which is all that is exposed to view. There was one little beauty 
 in a pink feraje, with an extremely thin yashmak, who might have 
 been an Odalisque. The rest of them looked like ghouls risen 
 from the graves, upon the tomb-stones of which they were stand- 
 ing. Most of the grave-yards we had seen were much neglected, 
 many of them like open commons, the turbaned tomb-stones 
 standing at all angles, and frequently trampled under foot. 
 
 It was amusing to observe the crowd, waiting, like ourselves, 
 in patient expectation of seeing the grand seignor. All the sol- 
 diers and more respectable people wore pantaloons and the red 
 tarbouch ; but the lower classes, ever the first to move in, and 
 the last to be benefited by a revolution, adhered to the turban and 
 capacious breeks, with a kind of tunic to match. The dervishes 
 were moving about with serious faces, wearing faded brown or 
 green cloaks, with felt hats, shaped like inverted funnels, upon 
 their heads. 
 
 We waited for some time ; and, as the Sultan was about to 
 appear in public, our imagination, pictured the magnificent entree 
 of a great Ottoman monarch, — troops of warriors, splendidly 
 caparisoned horses, and all the barbaric pomp of an oriental court, 
 — when a low murmur indicated that the cortege was approaching. 
 
 First came, walking backwards, the Imaum of the dervishes, 
 in a high green felt hat, swinging a censer filled with burning 
 incense, and followed by a grave, melancholy-looking young man, 
 
THE SULTAN IN PROCESSION. 53 
 
 with a rather scanty black beard, the red tarbouch upon his head, 
 and wearing a blue military frock-coat and fawn-coloured panta- 
 loons ; the coat fringed or laced, with a standing collar, — fawn- 
 coloured gloves upon his hands, and a short blue cloak thrown 
 lightly over his shoulders. It was the Sultan ! He was followed, 
 in single file, by six or eight persons, attired in blue, some wear- 
 ing swords, and others carrying small leather portfueilles, richly 
 embossed with gold. 
 
 Contrary to expectation, the Sultan had dismounted outside, 
 and his gait, as he passed us, was feeble and almost tottering. 
 Indeed, most of the Turks walk what is termed " parrot-toed," 
 — very much like our Indians. Ascending a covered stairway 
 to an upper gallery, with windows towards the court, he ap- 
 proached one of them, and looked intently down upon us ; but 
 our interpreter imprudently exclaiming, " Voila le Sultan! le 
 Sultan !" he turned slowly away, we presume, to his devotions. 
 
 Without the court were his horses ; splendid steeds, caparisoned 
 in richly-embroidered, but chaste saddle-cloths, which, as well as 
 the reins and the pommels of the saddles, were studded with 
 precious stones ; the head-pieces were embossed gold, and the 
 frontlets glittered with gems. 
 
 The Sultan's figure was light, and apparently feeble. I thought 
 so when I saw him before, in a semi-obscure apartment, and his 
 appearance now confirmed the impression. The expression of 
 his features at the moment of passing, was that of profound 
 melancholy. Like the Mexican prince, of whom he so much 
 reminded me, his mind may be overshadowed by the general 
 and spreading opinion, that the Ottoman rule upon the European 
 side of Turkey is drawing to a close. This impression has be- 
 come so prevalent, that hundreds, when they die, direct their 
 remains to be interred on the Asiatic side of the Bosporus. It is 
 sad to think that, from the destruction of the Janissaries by Mah- 
 moud to the present time, the very advancement of the Turks in 
 civilization should increase the weakness, and precipitate the 
 dismemberment, if not the downfall, of the empire! 
 
 It was a singular scene ! A few ragged Turks in the old tur- 
 5* 
 
54 DANCING DERVISHES. 
 
 ban, the only relic of the past ; the mixture of European costumes 
 and the red tarbouch ; a company of Christian officers, from a 
 far-off land; the mild-looking young Sultan, so humble! so gen- 
 tle ! with so little parade ! so different from his haughty Osmanlie 
 ancestors ! And then there was the back-ground of veiled women 
 — the ghouls peeping out of the grave-yard. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 29. Visited the same convent to witness an 
 exhibition of dancing dervishes. Casting off our overshoes, 
 and passing through the door, beside which sentries were sta- 
 tioned, we took our places within a railing, which ran around 
 the circular floor of the mosque. There was a similar gallery 
 above. Some twenty dirty-looking dervishes, in faded brown 
 and green cloaks, with white felt conical hats upon their heads, 
 were prostrate around the circle, while the Imaum, the same 
 who had preceded the Sultan, chanted a prayer before the 
 mihrab on the eastern side. There was music from the gallery, 
 plaintive, yet barbarous, mingled with the occasional tap of a 
 drum. 
 
 After repeated prostrations, at a signal, the Imaum led the way, 
 in a slow march, round the apartment. As each one passed the 
 mihrab, he bowed three times, gracefully, without stopping, or 
 turning his back towards the holy place. After marching round 
 three times, making the same reverence, they halted with their 
 faces inwards, and the Imaum resumed his seat upon a rug 
 before the mihrab. The others, all barefooted, crossing their 
 feet one after the other, in slow succession, began to twirl around, 
 keeping admirable time to the music ; and when all in motion, 
 looked like so many teetotums spinning. The word spinning 
 conveys a better idea than turning; for they seemed to move 
 about without the slightest effort, and their flowing garments, fly- 
 ing out in extended circles below, gave the movement a most 
 graceful appearance. As the music became louder and faster, 
 they spun round with increasing rapidity, until the eye became 
 dizzy with looking upon them. At a tap of the drum, they 
 stopped simultaneously, with no perspiration upon the forehead, 
 and neither frenzy nor fatigue expressed in the eye. They were 
 
THE FIRMAN. 55 
 
 of all ages, from the old Imaum, with the benevolent features, to 
 a boy of sixteen, whose melancholy face excited interest. Indeed, 
 they all had an air of sadness and profound resignation ; nothing 
 ferocious, nothing sinister, nothing fanatical. Renewing the 
 march, and repeating the prostrations, the exercises continued 
 about an hour, and concluded as they began. The audience 
 either stood erect, or sat upon the floor, and preserved deep 
 silence. The whole affair did not strike us in the ridiculous light 
 we had anticipated. Indeed, some of the customs of Christianity 
 are equally absurd. The religious sentiment is the same all over 
 the world, and must find expression. Humanity rejoices, when 
 such expression, harmless in itself, as in the present instance, 
 neither assails the opinions nor the rights of others. Such is the 
 necessity of religion for the support of all human institutions, that 
 any form of worship, however false and corrupt, is preferable to 
 the atrocious enormities which follow in the train of absolute 
 impiety. 
 
 The religious sentiment of Turkey, misled and faint as it is, is 
 the best protection it possesses against such debaucheries as the 
 Saturnalia of Rome or the utter debasements of the Parisian 
 worship of the Goddess of Reason. 
 
 March 1. Impatient about the firman, Mr. Carr addressed a 
 note to the minister of foreign affairs upon the subject. In reply, 
 the latter gave the assurance that there would be no difficulty, 
 but that on the contrary the Sultan was anxious to promote our 
 views. 
 
 Tuesday, March 6. Received the long-expected firman from 
 the Grand Vizier. It was addressed to the Pashas of Saida and 
 Jerusalem, the two highest dignitaries in Syria. It was briefly 
 couched. The following is a literal translation : 
 
 "Governors of Saida and Jerusalem ! — Captain Lynch, of the 
 American Navy, being desirous of examining the Dead Sea 
 (Bahr Lut), his legation has asked for him, from all our authori- 
 ties, all due aid and assistance. 
 
 "You will, therefore, on the receipt of this present order, give 
 
56 s c i o . 
 
 him and his companions, seventeen in number, all due aid and 
 co-operation in his explorations. 
 
 " Protect, therefore, and treat him with a regard due to the 
 friendship existing between the American Government and that of 
 the Sublime Porte. 
 
 (Signed) " Mustafa Reschid Pasha, 
 
 "Grand Vizier. 
 "Mustafa Pasha, Governor of Saida. 
 "Zarif Pasha, Governor of Jerusalem. 
 
 "Stambohl, March 6, 1848." 
 
 In half an hour after the receipt of the firman, I was on board 
 the French steamer " Hellespont," the rest of the party having 
 preceded me. 
 
 Spent the night on the Sea of Marmara. Passed the next day 
 in sweeping down the Hellespont, and skirting the Phrygian 
 coast, and, on the morning of the 9th, rejoined the Supply. 
 
 Friday, March 10. Sailed from Smyrna for the coast of Syria, 
 and passed through the straits of Spalmatori and Scio, and by the 
 island of Nicaria (ancient Icaria), named after him whose waxen 
 pinions so signally failed him. 
 
 Monday, March 13. The wind hauled to the southward and 
 eastward, and freshened to a gale — a genuine levanter. The gale 
 increasing, we were compelled to bear up, and run for a lee. 
 Scudded through the dark night, and in the morning anchored in 
 the bay of Scio. 
 
 In the afternoon, the weather partially moderating, visited the 
 shore. From the ship, we had enjoyed a view of rich orchards 
 and green fields ; but, on landing, we found ourselves amid a 
 scene of desolation — an entire city, with all its environs, laid in 
 ruins by the ruthless Turks, during that darkest hour of Turkish 
 history, the massacre of Scio. Invited into one of the dwellings, 
 we tasted some Scian wine, and at the same time caught a glimpse 
 of a pair of lustrous eyes peering at us from above : — the wine 
 was light in colour, and, to our tastes, unpalatable ; but the eyes 
 were magnificent. The Greek costume diners little from the 
 
RUINS OF EPHESUS. 57 
 
 Turkish, in the capital. The tarbouch is higher ; the shakshen 
 (petticoat-trowsers) shorter, with leggings beneath. The Greeks 
 are more vivacious than the Turks, but much less respected in 
 the Levant. 
 
 We rode into the country. Our steeds were donkeys — our 
 saddles made of wood ! It was literally riding on a rail. What 
 a contrast between the luxuriant vegetation, the bounty of nature, 
 and the devastation of man ! Nearly every house was unroofed 
 and in ruins — not one in ten inhabited, although surrounded with 
 thick groves of orange trees loaded with the weight of their golden 
 fruit. 
 
 March 14. Weighed anchor and again endeavoured to pass 
 through the Icarian Sea ; but encountering another gale, were 
 compelled to bear away for Scala Nouva, on the coast of Asia 
 Minor, not far from the ruins of ancient Ephesus. While weath- 
 er-bound, we availed ourselves of the opportunity to visit the ruins 
 about ten miles distant. There are no trees and very few bushes 
 on the face of this old country, but the mountain slopes and the 
 valleys are enamelled with thousands of beautiful flowers, among 
 which the most conspicuous, from its brilliant colour, is the pur- 
 ple anemone (anemone coronaria), one of the lavenders, and 
 known to the ancient Greeks. 
 
 Passing in view of the cave of the Seven Sleepers, we explored 
 the ruins of the temple of Diana, and of the great church of St. 
 John, the first of the seven churches of Asia. Over the massive 
 portal of the last were originally fine basso-relievos, now all re- 
 moved but one. From a cleft in the wall a tree shoots up and 
 partly shades the portal within. It is the beautiful emblem of 
 faith, springing from and surviving the ruins of its earthly temple. 
 
 Sailing thence, the wind was light, and we advanced slowly. 
 
 Sunday, March 19. Read prayers in the Forni passage, be- 
 tween Samos and Icaria, in sight of " the island which is called 
 Patmos." Samos, the birth-place of Pythagoras and of one of 
 the Sibyls, as w T ell as Chios and Mitylene, were visited by St. 
 Paul. At night, observed the eclipse of the moon by the chro- 
 nometer. 
 
58 THE ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 March 20. All day in sight of Patmos, where St. John wrote 
 the Apocalypse. How grateful, yet how awe-inspiring, would be 
 a visit to the cave where the scribe of the Almighty dwelt ! 
 
 Patmos is a small, rocky isle, with not a tree visible upon it, 
 like most of the islands we have seen. There is little cultivation, 
 although a considerable hamlet is seen clustering on the hill-side, 
 while a castellated building crowns the summit. It is said that 
 the inhabitants are supported, almost entirely, by the proceeds of 
 the sponge fisheries along its rocky shores. 
 
 March 21. The wind strong, but adverse — freshened to a gale. 
 We were now under the lee of Cos, where, as well as at Cyprus 
 and Tyre, the god Phoebus was worshipped. This island was 
 also visited by St. Paul on his way to Rhodes. 10 P. M. A fair 
 wind, and a lunar rainbow ! Bore away under full sail, leaving 
 Candia broad upon our weather-quarter, and the sandy coast of 
 Asia Minor, glittering in the moonlight, on our lee. 
 
 With a flowing sheet, we sailed past Rhodes and Cyprus, — the 
 first famed for its brazen colossus, which no longer spans the en- 
 trance to the harbour. 
 
 Saturday, March 25. This morning the mountains of Lebanon 
 are before us — their shadows resting upon the sea, while their 
 summits are wreathed in a mist, made refulgent by the rays of the 
 yet invisible sun. Brilliant as the bow of promise, the many- 
 coloured mist rests like a gemmed tiara upon the brow of the 
 lofty mountain. Like the glorious sunset on the eve of our de- 
 parture, I hail this as an auspicious omen. 
 
PREPARATIONS. 59 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 March 25. At 8 A. M. anchored off the town of Beirut, and 
 I went on shore to call upon the Pasha, who is also a Mushir, 
 which, next to the sovereignty, is the highest rank in the Ottoman 
 empire. 
 
 The Rev. Eli Smith, of the American Presbyterian mission, 
 although in ill health, exerted himself in our behalf, and to him 
 we were indebted for securing the services of an intelligent young 
 Syrian, named Ameuny, for our dragoman or interpreter. I also 
 engaged an Arab, named Mustafa, as cook. The other gentlemen 
 of the mission rendered us all the assistance in their power, and 
 cheered us with cordial good wishes for our success. 
 
 We received here two pocket chronometers forwarded by Dent 
 from London ; and I had the satisfaction of engaging Dr. Ander- 
 son, of New York, as physician and geologist, while we should 
 be descending the Jordan, and exploring the Dead Sea. 
 
 An English party having been recently attacked in attempting 
 to descend the Jordan, the tribes might yet be in an exasperated 
 state, and in the event of gun-shot wounds, surgical aid would 
 be indispensable. Lieutenant Molyneux, R. N., the commander 
 of that party, having, like Costigan, the only man who preceded 
 him, perished of fever caught on the Dead Sea, I felt it a duty to 
 secure the valuable services of Dr. Anderson. I directed him to 
 proceed across the country, to make a geological rcconnoissance, 
 and to join us, if he could, on the route from Acre to Tiberias. 
 
 Our consul, Mr. Chasseaud, was indefatigable in his efforts to 
 facilitate us ; and notwithstanding the weather was tempestuous, 
 with incessant rain, we were ready at the expiration of the first 
 
60 MATTERS OF COSTUME. 
 
 twenty-four hours. H. B. M. Consul-General, Colonel Rose, was 
 kind and obliging. Besides partaking of his hospitality, I was in- 
 debted to him for a letter to Mr. Finn, H. B. M. Consul at Jerusa- 
 lem, — rendered the more acceptable as our country has no repre- 
 sentative there. 
 
 Beirut is a Franco-Syrian town, with a proportionate number 
 of Turkish officials. The costumes of the east and of the west 
 are singularly blended, but the races remain distinct, separated 
 by difference of complexion and of faith. The most striking 
 peculiarity of dress we saw, was the tantur, or horn, worn mostly 
 by the wives of the mountaineers. It was from fourteen inches 
 to two feet long, three to four inches wide at the base, and about 
 one inch at the top. It is made of tin, silver, or gold, according 
 to the circumstances of the w T earer, and is sometimes studded 
 with precious stones. From the summit depends a veil, which 
 falls upon the breast, and, at will, conceals the features. It is 
 frequently drawn aside, sufficiently to leave one eye exposed, — in 
 that respect resembling the mode of the w T omen of Lima. It is 
 worn only by married women, or by unmarried ones of the high- 
 est rank, and once assumed, is borne for life. Although the 
 temple may throb, and the brain be racked with fever, it cannot 
 be laid aside. Put on with the bridal-robe, it does not give place 
 to the shroud. The custom of wearing it, is derived from the 
 Druses, but it is also worn by the Maronites. Its origin is un- 
 known ; but it is supposed to have some reference to the words, 
 "the horns of the righteous shall be exalted," and other like 
 passages of Scripture. 
 
 The illimitable sea was upon one side, the lofty barrier of the 
 Lebanon on the other, with a highly- cultivated plain, all verdure 
 and bloom, between them. But so indispensably necessary did I 
 deem it to reach the Jordan before the existing flood subsided, 
 that no time was allowed to note the beauties of the surrounding 
 scene. It seemed better to descend the river with a rush, than 
 slowly drag the boats over mud-flats, sand-banks and ridges of 
 rock. 
 
 Monday, March 27. At night, got under way ; but the wind 
 
MOUNT CARMEL. 61 
 
 failing, and a heavy sea tumbling in, we were compelled to anchor 
 again. 
 
 Tuesday, 28. A. M. The wind light, and adverse, — employed 
 in packing instruments, and making all ready for disembarkation. 
 3 P. M. Sailed with a fine breeze from the north-west. At mid- 
 night, having passed Sidon and Tyre, and hove to off the White 
 Cape ("Album Promontorium " of the Romans, and "Ras-el- 
 Abaid" of the Syrians), the north extreme of the bay of Acre. 
 
 At daylight filled away, and the wind blowing fresh, sailed 
 past the town of St. Jean d'Acre, its battlements frowning in the 
 distance, and anchored under mount Carmel, before the walled 
 village of Haifa. 
 
 With great difficulty I landed through the surf, in company with 
 our dragoman and our vice-consul at Acre, who had come with 
 us from Beirut. We were in danger of perishing, and only res- 
 cued by the Arab fishermen who came to our assistance. They 
 are bold and dexterous swimmers, as much at home in the water 
 as the natives of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 The increasing surf preventing further communication with the 
 ship, we proceeded first to Haifa and thence to the convent for a 
 bed, for in the miserable village there was no accommodation. 
 The first thing in Syria which strikes a visitor from the western 
 world, is the absence of forest trees. Except the orchards, the 
 mountains and the plains are unrelieved surfaces of dull brown 
 and green. No towering oak, no symmetrical poplar, relieves 
 the monotony of the scene. The sun must surely be the monarch 
 of this clime, for, outside the flat, mud-roofed, cube-like houses, 
 there is no shelter from his fiery beams. 
 
 The road to the convent led for a short distance through an 
 extensive olive orchard, and thence up the mountain by a gentle 
 ascent. On the plain, and the mountain side, were flowers and 
 fragrant shrubs, — the asphodel, the pheasant's eye, and Egyptian 
 clover. The convent stands on the bold brow of a promontory, 
 the terminus of a mountain range 1200 feet high, bounding the 
 vale of Esdraelon on the south-west. The view from the summit 
 is fine. Beneath is a narrow but luxuriant plain, upon which, it 
 6 
 
62 TENTS PITCHED. 
 
 is said, once stood the city of Porphyria. 1 Sweeping inland, 
 north and south, from Apollonia in one direction to Tyre in 
 another, with Acre in the near perspective, are the hills of Samaria 
 and Galilee, enclosing the lovely vale of Sharon and the great 
 battle-field of nations, the valley of Esdraelon ; while to the west 
 lies the broad expanse of the Mediterranean. But the eye of 
 faith viewed a more interesting and impressive sight ; for it was 
 here, perhaps upon the very spot where I stood, that Elijah built 
 his altar, and " the fire of the Lord fell and consumed the burnt 
 sacrifice, and the wood and the stones and the dust, and licked 
 up the water that was in the trench." 
 
 Friday, March 31. Wind changed offshore with a smooth sea. 
 Sent to Acre for horses, and hoisted out the two " Fannies" and 
 landed them with our effects. Pitched our tents for the first 
 time, upon the beach, without the walls of Haifa. A grave-yard 
 behind, an old grotto-looking well (then dry) on one side, and a 
 carob tree on the other. This tree very much resembles an apple 
 tree, and bears an edible bean, somewhat like the catalpa, which, 
 in times of scarcity, is eaten by the poor. It is supposed to be 
 the "husk" spoken of in the beautiful and touching parable of 
 the prodigal son. The fruit is called by the Christians, " St. John's 
 bread," and the tree, which is an evergreen, " the locust tree," 
 from the belief that its fruit is the locust eaten with wild honey by 
 St. John in the desert. For the first time, perhaps, without the 
 consular precincts, the American flag has been raised in Palestine. 
 May it be the harbinger of regeneration to a now hapless people ! 
 
 We were surrounded by a crowd of curious Arabs, of all ages 
 and conditions, — their costumes picturesque and dirty. The 
 rabble already began to show their thievish propensities by steal- 
 ing the little copper chains of our thole-pins. They thought that 
 they were gold. Great fun to our sailors putting together the 
 carriages, which with the harness were made in New York, for 
 the transportation of the boats. The men were full of jokes and 
 merriment, at beginning camp life. Mustafa, the cook, prepared 
 our first tea in Palestine. 
 
 1 The true site of Porphyreea is said to be near Sidon. 
 
FIRST NIGHT ASHORE. 63 
 
 We had two tents made of American canvass. They were 
 circular, so constructed that the boats' masts answered as tent- 
 poles to them. The officers occupied the small and the men the 
 large one. We had each, officers and men, a piece of India- 
 rubber cloth, two yards long, to sleep on, and a blanket or com- 
 forter to cover us. 
 
 Night came, and the sentries were posted. The stars were 
 exceedingly brilliant ; the air clear and cool — almost too cool, — 
 and the surf beat in melancholy cadence, interrupted only by the 
 distant cry of jackals in the mountains 
 
 Saturday, April 1. A day of tribulation. A little past mid- 
 night, the tinkling of bells announced the arrival of our horses, 
 followed soon after by a screaming conversation in Arabic between 
 the dragoman (interpreter) within our tent and the chief of the 
 muleteers outside. Our sleeping was excessively uncomfortable, 
 — what from the cold, and the stones on the ground, and the 
 novelty, we scarce slept a wink. Some began to think that it was 
 not a " party of pleasure," as an illiberal print had termed it. 
 
 With the first ray of light, we saw that our Arab steeds were 
 most miserable galled jades, and upon trial entirely unused to 
 draught. It was ludicrous to see how loosely the harness we had 
 brought huns: about their meagre frames. On trial, as an exhibi- 
 tion of discontent, there was first a general plunge, and then a 
 very intelligible equine protest of rearing and kicking. After 
 infinite trouble, and shifting the harness to more than a dozen 
 horses, we found four that would draw, when once started. But 
 the load was evidently too much for them. We then chartered 
 an Arab boat, to convey the boat's-sails, and heavier articles, 
 across the bay to Acre. Still, the horses could not, or would not, 
 budo-e ; so that we were compelled to relaunch the boats, and 
 send them to the ship, which had sailed over, and was then blaz- 
 ing away, returning a salute of the town. With a sailor mounted 
 on each of the trucks, the horses were at length made to draw 
 them, by dint of severe beating. The road along the beach was 
 as firm and hard as a floor. About half a mile from our camp- 
 ing-place, a branch of the Valley of Esdraelon opened on the 
 
64 st. 
 
 right, drained by the "Nahr Mukutta" (the river of the ford), 
 the Kishon of Scripture, in which Sisera and his host were 
 drowned, after their defeat by Deborah and Barak, at the foot of 
 Mount Tabor. 
 
 u The river of Kishon swept them away : 
 That ancient river, — the river of Kishon.'*' 
 
 It was to the brink of this brook that the 450 prophets of Baal 
 were brought from Mount Carmel, and put to death by order of 
 Elijah. The half-frightened horses dashed into the stream, which 
 they crossed without difficulty, it being only about eighteen inches 
 deep, and as many yards across. Onward we went, occasionally 
 coming to a dead halt, rendering necessary, renewed applications 
 of the cudgel, — for lighter instruments of persuasion were of no 
 avail. 
 
 The road ran along the beach, — in fact, the beach was the 
 road, curving gently towards the north, and eventually to the 
 west. Passing the wrecks of several vessels, buried in the sand, 
 about six miles from the Kishon, we came to the river Namaane 
 (Belus), nearly twice as deep and as wide again as the first. 
 Pliny says, that near this river some shipwrecked Phoenician sailors 
 discovered the mode of making glass, by observing the alkali of 
 the dried sea-weed they burned, to unite with the fused silex of 
 the shore. Thence, the beach sweeps out into a low projecting 
 promonotory, on which stands "Akka," the "St. Jean d'Acre " 
 of the Crusades, and the "Ptolemais" of the New Testament. 
 
 Akka has been esteemed the key of all Syria; and Napoleon, 
 when he saw it, exclaimed, " On that little town hangs the destiny 
 of the East." It checked him, however, in his victorious career, 
 and he, who had never known a reverse, recoiled before it. But 
 an English fleet, a few years since, proved that it was not im- 
 pregnable, and its walls and bastions are yet in a dilapidated state, 
 but they are now being thoroughly repaired and strengthened. 
 
 It being necessary to see the consul and the governor, I pre- 
 ceded the party to the town. At the outer gate of this fortified 
 stronghold, two or three soldiers were standing, and there was a 
 
APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN. 65 
 
 guard-room just within it. I made my way, as well as I could, 
 to the house of our consul, to which the stars and stripes occa- 
 sionally beckoned me, as, from time to time, I caught a glimpse 
 of them floating above a lofty turret. 
 
 Riding through a mass of masonry, with every conceivable 
 name in the science of fortification, — through tortuous, ill-paved 
 streets, and narrow bazaars and covered ways, I found myself at 
 the bottom of a cul-de-sac. Dismounting before a low gate- 
 way, flanked by a gallery of blank walls, ascending a stone stair- 
 way, and passing through courts and ruined buildings, I reached 
 the consul's house, and was in a few moments seated on his divan. 
 
 Had I not been in so much anxiety about our operations, the 
 whole scene upon my entrance into St. Jean d'Acre would have 
 been exceedingly interesting. It is the strangest-looking place in 
 the world, besides its being so renowned from the days of chi- 
 valry to the English bombardment. Perhaps no other town in the 
 world could have stood the hurtling of the iron hail-storm as well. 
 In some places, but comparatively few in number, there were 
 chasms, showing where a cannon-shot had passed ; in others, the 
 shot had formed a lodgment, and remained a fixture ; and in others, 
 again, had only made an indentation and fallen to the ground. 
 
 A short distance within the gate was a narrow bazaar, roughly 
 paved, about two hundred yards in length, with small open shops, 
 or booths on each side. They only exhibited the common neces- 
 saries of life for sale. A short distance farther, opposite to the 
 inner wall, was a line of workshops, mostly occupied by shoe- 
 makers. These, with a few feluccas in the harbour, presented the 
 only indications of commerce. 
 
 In the walls of our consul's castellated, bomb-proof house 
 several shot were lodged ; and in the court I stumbled over 
 broken bomb-shells and fragments of masonry. From the flat 
 terrace-roof we looked down upon numberless neighbours ; 
 women with golden hair-ornaments and ragged trousers, — for 
 they were too large to be called pantalettes. There was, on an 
 adjoining terrace, a young girl with a glorious profusion of curl- 
 ing tresses, which, from beneath a golden net-work on her head, 
 6* 
 
66 GOVERNOR OF ACRE. 
 
 fell gracefully down upon her dumpy form. Besides a boddice, 
 or spencer, she wore a short pelisse and full trousers, which, to say 
 the least, were rather the worse for wear. I should have admired 
 the dark, wild-looking eye and the luxuriant hair, had it not been 
 whispered to me that in the morning her beautiful head was seen 
 undergoing a more critical examination than would be necessary 
 with one of our fair countrywomen. 
 
 The consul having prepared himself, we went forth to seek the 
 governor, who, with his suite, had gone outside the walls. There 
 were few people in the streets, but I noticed that the turban was 
 more generally worn than in Beirut, Smyrna, or Constantinople. 
 Civilization has scarce landed upon these shores ; and in Syria, 
 we may look for more unadulterated specimens of the Muslim 
 character than in the capital of the empire. 
 
 We found the governor just without the gate, seated in the 
 most democratic manner, against the side of a thatched hut, a cafe, 
 I believe. He received us courteously, and we were immediately 
 provided with seats. It was a singular place of audience, and 
 contrasted strangely with the sparkling gem upon the finger of 
 the governor, the amber mouth-piece of his chibouque encircled 
 with diamonds, and the rich dresses and jewel-hilted swords of 
 some of his officers : but I liked it ; there was no pretension or 
 parade, and it looked like business ; moreover, it had a republican 
 air about it that was gratifying.. 
 
 In this public place, the parley w T as held, and the horses that 
 he had furnished were abused in unmeasured terms. His officers 
 and ourselves were seated upon stools and benches ; the attend- 
 ants were in front, and the rabble stood around and listened to 
 the talk. 
 
 Sa'id Bey, the governor, is about forty-five years of age. He 
 is a Syrian by birth, an Egyptian by descent, and almost a mulatto 
 in complexion. He was dressed in plain blue pantaloons and a 
 long blue surtout, and wore a black beard and the red tarbouch. 
 His countenance indicated cunning, if not treachery. 
 
 In brief terms, I told the governor how worthless the horses 
 proved which he had sent. He professed his deep sorrow, but 
 
CONFERENCE WITH THE GOVERNOR. 67 
 
 asked what could he do, for there were none better to be procured. 
 I then proposed oxen, but he stated that it was then the height of 
 seed-time, and that without great injury to the husbandmen he 
 could not take them. This was confirmed by our dragoman and 
 a Syrian gentleman, a Christian convert, educated by the mission- 
 aries at Beirut. Of course, although burning with anxiety to pro- 
 ceed, I would not consent to profit by an act of injustice. From 
 the governor's manner, however, I suspected that he was coveting 
 a bribe, and determined to disappoint him. 
 
 Assuming a high stand, I told him that we were there not as 
 common travellers, but sent by a great country, and with the 
 sanction of his own government: — that I called upon him to 
 provide us with the means of transportation, for which we would 
 pay liberally, but not extravagantly. That his own sovereign had 
 expressed an interest in our labours, and if we were not assisted 
 I would take good care that the odium of failure should rest upon 
 the shoulders of Sa'id Bey, Governor of Acre. By this time 
 a great concourse of people had gathered around, and he said 
 that he would see what could be done, and let me know in the 
 course of the evening. 
 
 The " Supply" had in the mean time weighed anchor, and 
 stood close in shore to land the provisions and things sent back 
 in the morning. The boats of the expedition had also arrived, 
 as well as the trucks drawn round the beach. The Governor and 
 his officers came to look at them, followed by nearly the whole 
 population of the town. Such a mob ! such clamour and con- 
 fusion ! I requested the governor to employ the police to clear a 
 place for us to pitch our tents upon the beach. He did so im- 
 mediately, but it was of no avail ; for the crowd, driven off' at 
 one moment, returned the next, more clamorous than before : 
 and he confessed that he had not power to prevent the townspeople 
 from gratifying their laudable desire for information, — not to 
 speak of acquisition, for they are notorious thieves. But for its 
 vexation, the scene would have been very amusing. In the midst 
 of this Arab crowd were many women, with coloured trousers 
 and long coarse white veils ; and some stood in the grave-yard 
 
68 ARAB CURIOSITY. 
 
 immediately behind us, in dresses, veils and all, of common check, 
 black and white. 
 
 Finding it utterly impossible to land our effects and encamp in 
 this place, we returned and pitched our tents on the southern 
 bank of the Belus. But even here the crowd followed us, evinc- 
 ing a curiosity only to be equalled by our own brethren of the 
 eastern states. Since the authorities could not or would not pro- 
 tect us, we determined to take the law into our own hands and 
 protect ourselves, and accordingly posted sentinels with fixed 
 bayonets to keep off the crowd. Jack did it effectually, and the 
 flanks of two or three bore witness to the " capable impressure" 
 of the pointed steel ; after which we were no more molested. 
 We then hauled the boats up to a small green spot beside the 
 river, and a short distance from the sea. Behind us was the 
 great plain of Acre. While thus engaged, some Arab fellahin 
 (peasants) passed us, their appearance wild, and their complexions 
 of the negro tint. 
 
 With conflicting emotions we saw the " Supply," under all 
 sail, stand out to sea. Shall any of us live to tread again her 
 clean, familiar deck ? What matters it ! We are in the hands 
 of God, and, fall early, or fall late, we fall only with his consent. 
 
 Late in the afternoon, I received an invitation from Sa'id Bey 
 to come to the palace. Ascending a broad flight of steps, and 
 crossing a large paved court, I was ushered into an oblong apart- 
 ment simply furnished, with the divan at the farther end. I was 
 invited to take the corner seat, among Turks the place of honour. 
 Immediately on my right, was the Cadi, or Judge, a venerable 
 and self-righteous looking old gentleman, in a rich blue cashmere 
 cloak, trimmed with fur. On his right sat the Governor. Around 
 the room were many officers, and there were a number of attend- 
 ants passing to and fro, bearing pipes and coffee to every new 
 comer. But, what specially attracted my attention, was a magni- 
 ficent savage, enveloped in a scarlet cloth pelisse, richly em- 
 broidered with gold. He was the handsomest, and I soon thought 
 also, the most graceful being I had ever seen. His complexion 
 was of a rich, mellow, indescribable olive tint, and his hair a 
 
ASANTON. 69 
 
 glossy black ; his teeth were regular, and of the whitest ivory ; 
 and the glance of his eye was keen at times, but generally soft 
 and lustrous. With the tarbouch upon his head, which he seemed 
 to wear uneasily, he reclined, rather than sat, upon- the opposite 
 side of the divan, while his hand played in unconscious familiarity 
 with the hilt of his yataghan. He looked like one who would be 
 
 " Steel amid the din of arms, 
 And wax when with the fair." 
 
 Just as we were seated, an old marabout entered the room, 
 and, without saluting any one, squatted upon the floor and com- 
 menced chanting verses from the Koran. He had a faded brown 
 cloak drawn around him, and a dingy, conical, felt hat, such as is 
 worn by the dervishes, upon his head. His whole person and 
 attire were exceedingly filthy, and his countenance unprepossess- 
 ing in the extreme. The company sat in silence while he con- 
 tinued chanting verse after verse in a louder and yet louder tone. 
 At length the governor asked the cause of the interruption, but 
 received no answer ; save, that the last word of the verse, which 
 the madman or impostor was reciting at the moment, was sent 
 forth with a yell, and the next verse commenced in a shriller key 
 than the one which had preceded it. The whole council (for 
 such I suppose it may be called) now resigned itself to the inflic- 
 tion ; and, with a ludicrous, apologetic air, the Cadi whispered 
 to me, "It is a santon !" 
 
 At length the marabout paused for want of breath, and the 
 Governor repeated his former question. This time there was a 
 reply, and a very intelligible one. He wanted charity. A sum 
 of money was directed to be given to him, and he took his de- 
 parture. Surely this is a singular country ! Such an importunate 
 mode of begging I never saw before, although I have been in 
 Sicily. I relate the circumstance, with no farther comment, ex- 
 actly as it occurred. 
 
 When we were again quiet, the Governor stated that since he 
 had parted with me he had received the most alarming intelligence 
 of the hostile spirit of the Arab tribes bordering on the Jordan 3 
 
70 INEFFECTUAL PARLEY. 
 
 and pointed to the savage chief as his authority. He named him 
 'Akil Aga el Hassee, a great border Sheikh of the Arabs. The 
 Governor proceeded to say that the "most excellent Sheikh" 
 had just come in from the Ghor, where the tribes were up in 
 arms, at war among themselves, and pillaging and maltreating all 
 who fell into their hands. He was, therefore, of opinion that we 
 could not proceed in safety with less than one hundred soldiers to 
 guard us ; and said that if I would agree to pay twenty thousand 
 piastres (about eight hundred dollars), he would procure means 
 for the transportation of the boats, and guaranty us from molest- 
 ation. 
 
 He could not look me in the face when he made this proposi- 
 tion, and it immediately occurred to me that the Bedawy Sheikh 
 had been brought in as a bugbear to intimidate me into terms. 
 This idea strengthened with reflection, until I had reached a state 
 of mind exactly the reverse of what Sa'id Bey anticipated. 
 
 The discussion lasted for some time, the Governor, the Cadi, 
 the Sheikh, and others, whose names and rank I did not know, 
 urging me to accept the offer. This I positively declined, stating 
 that I was not authorized, and if I were, would scorn to buy protec- 
 tion : that if draught horses could be procured or oxen furnished, 
 I would pay fairly for them and for a few soldiers to act as 
 scouts ; but that we were well armed and able to protect ourselves. 
 
 Finally, the Governor finding that I would not embrace his 
 terms, although he mitigated his demand, urged me to abandon 
 the enterprise. To this, I replied that we were ordered to explore 
 the Dead Sea, and were determined to obey. 
 
 He then advised me, with much earnestness, to go by the way 
 of Jerusalem. As he w T as too ignorant to understand the geo- 
 graphical difficulties of that route, I merely answered that we had 
 set our faces towards the Sea of Galilee, and were not disposed 
 to look back. 
 
 The Sheikh here said that the Bedawin of the Ghor would eat 
 us up. My reply was that they would find us difficult of diges- 
 tion ; but, as he might have some influence with the tribes, I 
 added that we w T ould much prefer going peaceably, paying fairly 
 
THE BEDAWY SHEIKH. 71 
 
 for all services rendered and provisions supplied ; but go at all 
 hazards we were resolutely determined. Here the conference 
 ended, it having been prolonged by the necessity of conversing 
 through an interpreter, which had, however, this advantage, that 
 it gave me full time to take notes. 
 
 Without the court, I overtook the Sheikh, who had preceded 
 me, and asked him many questions about the tribes on the Jor- 
 dan. In the course of the conversation I showed him my sword 
 and revolver — the former with pistol-barrels attached near the hilt. 
 He examined them closely, and remarked that they were the 
 " devil's invention." I then told him that we were fifteen in 
 number, and besides several of those swords and revolvers, had 
 one large gun (a blunderbuss), a rifle, fourteen carbines with 
 bayonets, and twelve bowie-knife pistols, and asked him if he 
 did not think we could descend the Jordan. His reply was, 
 " You will, if any one can." After parting from him, I learned 
 that he was last year at the head of several tribes in rebellion 
 against the Turkish government, and that, unable to subdue him, 
 he had been bought in by a commission, corresponding to that 
 of colonel of the irregular Arabs (very irregular !), and a pelisse 
 of honour. It was the one he wore. : 
 
 It was now near nightfall, and the gates were closed ; I there- 
 fore accompanied our consul to his house for refreshment and a 
 bed, for I had eaten nothing since early in the morning. It was 
 a great disappointment to me to be separated from the camp ; for, 
 apart from the wish to participate in its hardships, I was anxious 
 to consult with Mr. Dale, who had cheered me throughout the 
 day by his zealous co-operation. 
 
 On reaching the consul's, I was told that some American tra- 
 vellers from Nazareth had called to see me in my absence, and 
 were to be found at the Franciscan Convent. Thither, I imme- 
 diately hastened, anxious alike to greet a countryman, and to 
 gather information, for Nazareth was nearly in our contemplated 
 line of route. 
 
 They proved to be Major Smith, of the United States' Engi- 
 neers, an esteemed acquaintance, and Mr. Sargent, of New York, 
 
72 DOUBTS AND DELIBERATIONS. 
 
 together with an English gentleman. Their account confirmed 
 the rumour of the disturbed state of the country, and they had 
 themselves been attacked two nights before, at the foot of Mount 
 Tabor. 
 
 I can give a very inadequate idea of my feelings. To turn 
 back, was out of the question; and my soul revolted at the 
 thought of bribing Sa'id Bey, even if I had been authorized to 
 spend money for such a purpose. I felt sure that he had exag- 
 gerated in his statement, and yet the attack on our countrymen, 
 so far this side of the Jordan, staggered me. Had my own life 
 been the only one at stake, I should have been comparatively 
 reckless ; but those only can realize my anxiety, who have them- 
 selves felt responsibility for the lives of others. 
 
 From all the information I could procure of the Arab character, 
 I had arrived at the conclusion, that it would tend more to gain 
 their good- will if we threw ourselves among them without an 
 escort, than if we were accompanied by a strong armed force. 
 In my first interview with Sa'id Bey, therefore, I only asked for 
 ten horsemen, to act as videttes, which, under the impression that 
 they would be insufficient, he so long hesitated to grant, that I 
 withdrew the application, and resolved to proceed without them. 
 He afterwards pressed me to take them, and, calling upon me at 
 the consul's, offered to furnish them free of cost ; but I was stead- 
 fast in refusal. 
 
 The attack upon our countrymen, however, indicated danger 
 of collision at the very outset, and I determined to be prepared 
 for it. 
 
 On leaving the " Supply," I had placed a sum of money in 
 charge of Lieutenant-Commanding Pennock, with the request, 
 that he would, in person, deliver it to H. B. M. Consul at Jeru- 
 salem. Partly for that purpose, and in part to make some simul- 
 taneous barometrical observations, he had sailed for Jaffa, which 
 is about thirty miles distant from the Holy City. To him, there- 
 fore, I despatched a messenger, asking him to call upon the Pasha, 
 and request a small body of soldiers to be sent to meet us at 
 Tiberias, or on the Jordan. This precaution taken, my mind was 
 
GRADATIONS OF RANK. 73 
 
 at ease, and, indeed, I was half ashamed of the previous misgiv- 
 ings ; for, from the first, I had felt that we should succeed. 
 
 In the camp, the day passed quietly. At one time, there was 
 a perfect fete around it, — pedlers, fruit-sellers, and a musician 
 with a bagpipe, who seemed to sing extemporaneously, like the 
 Bulgarian at San Stefano. At length, the crowd becoming trouble- 
 some, a space was cleared around the encampment, and lines of 
 demarcation drawn. Crosses were then made at the corners, 
 which, from some superstitious feeling, the people were afraid to 
 pass. 
 
 In the evening, at the consul's, we received many visitors, 
 scarce any three of whom were seated, or rather squatted, in the 
 same attitude. There is no part of the world I have ever visited, 
 where the lines of social distinction are more strictly drawn than 
 here. In the present instance, the highest in rank were squatted, 
 a-la-Turque, upon the divan, with their heels beneath them. 
 The next in grade were a little more upright, in a half kneeling 
 attitude ; the third, between a sitting posture and a genuflexion, 
 knelt with one leg, while they sat upon the other ; and the fourth, 
 and lowest I saw, knelt obsequiously, as if at their devotions. It 
 was amusing to see the shifting of postures on the entrance of a 
 visitor of a higher rank than any present; — when the squatters, 
 drawing themselves up, assumed a more reverential attitude, and 
 they who had been supported on one knee, found it necessary to 
 rest upon two. 
 
 I was particularly struck with these evolutions, on the entrance 
 of a fine old man, an Arab nobleman, called Sherif Hazza of 
 Mecca, the thirty-third lineal descendant of the Prophet. He 
 was about fifty years of age, of a dark Egyptian complexion, 
 small stature, and intelligent features. His father and elder 
 brother had been Sherifs, or governors of Mecca until the latter 
 was deposed by Mehemet Ali. He was dressed in a spencer and 
 capacious trousers of fine olive cloth. His appearance was very 
 prepossessing, and he evinced much enlightened curiosity with 
 regard to our country and its institutions. We were told that 
 from his descent he was held in great veneration by the Arabs ; 
 7 
 
74 SHER1F OF MECCA. 
 
 and I observed that every Muhammedan who came in, first ap- 
 proached him and kissed his hand with an air of profound respect. 
 He was as communicative about his own affairs as he was inquisi- 
 tive with respect to us and our country. Finding that he was 
 now doing nothing, but inactively awaiting the decision of a law- 
 suit, I suddenly proposed that he should accompany us. At first, 
 he smiled, as if the proposition were an absurd one ; but when I 
 explained to him that, instead of a party of private individuals, 
 we were commissioned officers and seamen, sent from a far dis- 
 tant but powerful country to solve a scientific question, he became 
 interested. I further added that, with us, I knew he believed in 
 the writings of Moses ; and that, with solutions of scientific ques- 
 tions, we hoped to convince the incredulous that Moses was a 
 true prophet. He listened eagerly, and after some farther con- 
 versation, rose abruptly, and saying that he would very soon give 
 me an answer, took his departure. I had, in the mean time, become 
 very anxious; for it seemed as if he had been providentially 
 thrown in our way. But it was necessary to conceal my feelings, 
 for it is the nature of this people to rise in their demands in exact 
 proportion to the anxiety you express ; and even if he were to 
 consent to accompany us, he might rate his services at an ex- 
 orbitant price. 
 
 Sooner even than, in my impatience, I had anticipated, he 
 returned and accepted the invitation, shaming my previous fears 
 of imposition by saying that he left the remuneration of his services 
 entirely to my own appraisement. He also brought a message 
 from 'Akil, the handsome savage, to the purport, that Sa'id Bey 
 was a humbug, and had been endeavouring to frighten me. 
 Sherif thought it not unlikely that the Sheikh might also be induced 
 to accompany us, if the negotiation were conducted with secresy. 
 
 This Sa'id Bey is an instance of the vicissitudes of fortune in 
 the Ottoman empire. Holding an office under Ibrahim Pasha, 
 when the Egyptians were in possession of the country, he was 
 detected in malpractices ; and at the restoration of Acre to the 
 Turks, was found in chains, condemned to labour for life. He 
 now walks as master through the streets which he formerly swept. 
 
CAMELS FOR DRAUGHT. 75 
 
 When the company had retired, the Consul, " on hospitable cares 
 intent," being a bachelor, superintended in person the prepara- 
 tion of my bed. Among other things, he had spread upon it a 
 silk sheet, soft and fine enough to deck the artificial figure of 
 a city belle, and sufficiently large for the ensign of a sloop- 
 of-war. 
 
 Although the couch was luxurious, the balm of refreshing sleep 
 was long denied, and for hours I laid awake and restless, for I 
 was not alone — the fleas were multitudinous and remorseless. 
 
 There seemed to be no alternative but to take the boats apart 
 and transport them across in sections, unless camels could be 
 made to draw in harness, and I determined to try the experiment. 
 During the night I suffered dreadfully from the nightmare, and 
 the suffocating monster w T as a camel. 
 
 Sunday, April 3. In the afternoon, when the religious exer- 
 cises of the day were over, the experiment of substituting camels 
 for draught horses was tried and proved successful; and my heart 
 throbbed with gratitude as the huge animals, three to each, marched 
 off with the trucks, the boats upon them, with perfect ease. 
 
 The harness, all too short, presented a fit-out more grotesque 
 even than that of a diligence in an interior province of France ; 
 but, with alterations, it answered the purpose, and w T e felt inde- 
 pendent of Sa'id Bey ; for camels, at least, could be had in abun- 
 dance. Determined, therefore, not again to have recouse to the 
 grasping Governor, I contracted with Sa'id Mustafa, a resident of 
 the town, for the necessary number of camels and horses. 
 
 The first attempt to draw the trucks by camels was a novel 
 sight, witnessed by an eager crowd of people. The successful 
 result taught them the existence of an unknown accomplishment 
 in that patient and powerful animal, which they had before thought 
 fit only to plod along with its heavy load upon its back. 
 
 The qualities of the camel, uncouth and clumsy as he is, are 
 scarcely appreciated in the East, or he would be more carefully 
 tended. It is a matter of surprise that the Romans never employed 
 them. Porus used them against xllexander, and the Parthians 
 against Crassus ; but, I believe, as far as history tells, the Romans 
 
76 DEPARTURE FROM ST. JEAN D'ACRE. 
 
 never employed them in warfare, nor in any manner as means of 
 transportation. 
 
 Monday, April 3. We were moving betimes, packing up and 
 waiting for the camels to transport our baggage, the boats having 
 gone ahead. After many vexatious delays, made a start at 
 2.30 P. M., but soon after two of the camels breaking down, we 
 were compelled to camp again. 
 
 vw-w^^-wvw^'s.'wvNi/ 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 FROM ST. JEAN D'ACRE TO DEPARTURE FROM THE 
 SEA OF GALILEE. 
 
 Tuesday, April 4. The daylight brought disappointment. As 
 Sa'id Mustafa was not to be found, I sent the dragoman to our 
 Consul, requesting him to call immediately upon the Governor, 
 and demand more camels ; for I had determined that I would 
 not, under any circumstances, again present myself before him. 
 By 8 o'clock, two additional camels arrived, and, at 9 o'clock, 
 we took up the line of march after the boats, — sixteen horses, 
 eleven loaded camels, and a mule. 
 
 As we were starting, Sa'id Bey had the effrontery to send to 
 me for a letter, stating that he had rendered all the services I had 
 required. I sent him word in reply, that he had done nothing to 
 assist us ; and that of his gross attempt at extortion, I had ap- 
 prised our government at home, our minister at Constantinople, 
 and his superior, the Mushir, at Beirut. 
 
 Following the beach to within two hundred yards of the town, 
 we turned off to the east, and skirted a hill, whence, on the left, 
 
AN UNCERTAIN GUIDE. 77 
 
 we saw an aqueduct, and the garden of Abdallah Pasha, — a 
 grove in the midst of a verdant, but treeless plain. Pursuing the 
 same route taken the evening before, we crossed the great plain 
 of Acre* enamelled with flowers, and struck into a rolling country 
 of gentle undulations. Besides the profusion of flowers, a stunted 
 tree was here and there presented. 
 
 The evening before, I had promised 'Akil to visit him in his 
 mountain fortress, if I could, and one of his followers now pre- 
 senting himself as a guide, we rode ahead of the caravan. The 
 village of Abelin was soon visible on the summit of a high hill, 
 rising abruptly from the southern slope of the plain. To the east 
 and south-east, in the far distance, were two other villages ; all 
 else was a nearly level plain, with broken ground in front. Riding 
 over the shoulder of the hill, we opened upon the head of a 
 ravine, — wide at first, but narrowing to a gorge as it descended, 
 and swept around the bases of the hills. Crowning the one op- 
 posite, Abelin looked like an inaccessible strong-hold. I had 
 been cautioned to be upon my guard ; knew nothing of 'Akil, 
 except that he was a daring Arab chief; had never before seen 
 my guide, and was uncertain whether he would prove treacherous 
 or faithful. I had accepted the invitation, for I was anxious to 
 prevail on 'Akil also to accompany us, and I felt that it would 
 not answer to show distrust. To guard against the w T orst, how- 
 ever, I gave to a fellah, whom we met, a note for Mr. Dale, 
 directing him, if I should not return, to push on without delay, 
 and accomplish the objects of the expedition. 
 
 The steep, rugged path had never before been trodden by any 
 other than an Arab horse ; and but that the one upon which I 
 rode was singularly surefooted, he would have often stumbled 
 and dislodged me, for I could not guide him, so much were my 
 senses engrossed by the extraordinary variety, fragrance, and 
 beauty of innumerable plants and flowers. 
 
 The village, perched upon the loftiest peak, commands an 
 extensive view from the " Album Promontorium " to the Convent 
 of Mount Carmel. But, if the situation be beautiful, the place 
 7* 
 
78 . INHOSPITALITY. 
 
 itself is indescribably poor and filthy. The houses, built of un- 
 cemented stones, are mostly one story high, and have flat, mud 
 roofs ; and without, and encircling the whole, is a row of small, 
 dome-roofed hovels, made entirely of mud, and used for baking 
 bread ; all enveloped in a most offensive atmosphere, tainted by 
 the odour of the fuel, — the dried excrement of camels. There 
 appeared to be as many as one of those little hovels to each 
 dwelling. 
 
 After having been detained in an open court until I became 
 impatient, I was ushered into a large room, open in front, with a 
 mud floor and smoke-stained rafters, covered with twigs. A 
 collection of smouldering embers was in the centre, stuck into 
 which, a small and exceedingly dirty brass coffee-pot stood sim- 
 mering ; and seated at the farther end, a short distance from it, 
 were the Sherif, 'Akil, and a number of Arabs, armed to the 
 teeth. I had parted with the first, at a late hour the previous 
 evening, when he started for Haifa, ten miles in another direction; 
 and how he could have come here, puzzled me. 
 
 For some moments, scarce a word was said ; and, from ina- 
 bility to speak the language, I could not break the awkward 
 silence, having left the interpreter with the train, where his ser- 
 vices were necessary. 
 
 There were some twelve or fifteen present. Look where I 
 would, their keen, black eyes were riveted upon me ; and wherever 
 I turned my eyes, theirs immediately followed in the same direc- 
 tion. I turned to Sherif, in the hope that he w r ould say some- 
 thing ; but, lost in thought, he seemed to be studying the geo- 
 logical structure of the lighted coal on the bowl of his narghile. 
 To 'Akil I made a friendly sign of recognition, which w r as re- 
 turned without rudeness, but without cordiality. My position 
 began to be irksome, rendered not the less so, from the circum- 
 stance that the pipe and the cup of coffee, the invariable marks 
 of welcome beneath an Arab roof, w T ere withheld. 
 
 I do not know when I have so earnestly longed for a cup of 
 coffee ; for, apart from the danger inferred to myself, its not being 
 
EMBARRASSING SITUATION. 79 
 
 tendered, seemed an ominous sign for the expedition. The 
 whole business looked like a snare. 
 
 While these thoughts were passing through my mind, a few 
 words had been exchanged between the leaders and their fol- 
 lowers, — mostly brief questions and monosyllabic replies, the last 
 almost invariably the Arabic negative, " Lah!" 
 
 Presently one of the questions elicited quite a warm discussion, 
 during which I sat entirely unnoticed, except that occasionally 
 one of the speakers looked towards me, when his example was 
 followed by the whole assembly. There was an evident air of 
 constraint; I had been received with bare civility, and they 
 seemed undecided what measures to pursue. There were evi- 
 dently conflicting opinions. 
 
 Fretted with impatience, and perhaps more nervous than I 
 should have been, I thoughtlessly looked at my watch. There 
 was an instant pause in the conversation, and while Sherif asked 
 to see it, they all crowded eagerly round. It was no curiosity to 
 him, but most of those present examined it earnestly, like so 
 many wild Indians for the first time beholding a mirror. I took 
 as much time as possible to exhibit the works, and when they 
 would look no longer, drew my sword, and glad to feel it in my 
 grasp, pointed out to them the peculiar construction of the handle. 
 They examined it as closely as they could, for, unlike the watch, 
 I would not part with it ; when, just as their curiosity was be- 
 coming sated, a cheering sound struck upon my ear. A single 
 glance satisfied me that I was not mistaken, and springing to my 
 feet, I stretched out one hand for the watch, while with the other 
 I pointed to the foot of the hill, and cried out "djemmell!" 
 Djemmell! djemmell! (camel! camel!) was echoed by many 
 voices, for the caravan was in sight, and from that moment there 
 was a marked change in their manner towards me. 
 
 I cannot venture to say that there was an intention to rob me, 
 for, despite appearances, I can hardly think so. It may be that 
 the omission of the chibouque and coffee made an undue impres- 
 sion upon me, and my ignorance of Arab habits did the rest. 
 Perhaps, too, I was rendered morbidly suspicious by the con- 
 
80 ARABS OF THE DESERT. 
 
 sciousness of having a large sum of money about me. If a rob- 
 bery were contemplated, I came upon them, perhaps, before their 
 plans were matured ; or the arrival of Sherif, who could have pre- 
 ceded me but a short time, might have disconcerted them. At 
 all events, I now felt safe, for the gaping mouth of the blunderbuss 
 and the sheen of the carbines borne by my companions proved 
 ample protectors. 
 
 Notwithstanding the awkwardness of our recent position to- 
 wards each other, I felt no hesitation in entering into an agree- 
 ment with 'Akil on the same terms as with the Sherif. Our 
 language was that of signs, fully understood by both parties. 
 
 According to the Arab code of morals, 'Akil would have been 
 perfectly justified in robbing me prior to a contract ; but to do so 
 afterwards would have been the height of dishonour. 
 
 On leaving Acre, our course was first east, then gradually round 
 to south, when, crossing a ridge by Abelin, which shuts in the 
 plain, the train entered a narrow gorge, and came to the Blowing 
 Valley or valley of the winds, with forests of white oak on the 
 flanks of the hills. 
 
 I rejoined the caravan as it passed by Abelin, leaving our allies 
 to follow. They were to bring ten spears, and formidable ones 
 they proved to be. The road becoming difficult for the carriages, 
 we moved slowly, and our Arab scouts soon overtook us. They 
 had all assumed the garb of the desert, and each, with a flowing 
 dark aba (cloak) on, and the yellow koofeeyeh upon his head, 
 bound round with a cord of camel's hair, dyed, black ; and bear- 
 ing a spear eighteen feet in length, some of them tufted with 
 ostrich feathers, looked the wild and savage warrior. 
 
 In the middle of Blowing Valley we came to a halt, three miles 
 from Abelin. It was yet early, 3 P. M.; but the great regulator 
 of every thing connected with life and motion in the East is water. 
 "VVe had passed a well about a mile back, and between us and 
 the next one was a narrow defile, presenting great obstructions to 
 the passage of the boats. We therefore pitched our tents upon a 
 gently sloping esplanade, and our Bedawin friends camped over- 
 against us. 
 
THE BLOWING VALLEY. 81 
 
 It was a picturesque spot ; on the left of our tents, which faced 
 the south, were the trucks with the two boats, forming a kind of 
 entrenchment ; behind these were about thirty camels and all our 
 horses. From the boats, and in front of our white tents, the 
 American flag was flying ; and just beyond, an officer and two 
 sailors, with carbines, had mounted guard, with the loaded blun- 
 derbuss between them. The tent of our allies was a blue one ; and 
 the horses tethered near, and tufted spears in front, together with 
 their striking costume, varied and enlivened the scene. 
 
 Towards each end of the valley, about half a mile from the 
 camp, one of the Arab horsemen was stationed, and cutting sharp 
 against the sky, 'Akil was upon the crest of the hill in our rear, 
 taking a reconnoissance. They promised to make admirable 
 videttes, and we had reason to rejoice at having secured them. 
 One brought us a sheep, which we shared between the camps ; and 
 Mr. Dale and myself went over and took a tiny cup of coffee with 
 them. We took solar and barometrical observations; and at 
 night, observed Polaris. 
 
 We this day passed through the narrow tract on the coast of 
 Syria, which was never subdued by the Israelites, and through 
 the narrowest part of the land of the tribe of Asser into that of 
 Zebulon. 
 
 It was a brilliant night, but we had reason to consider that 
 the place was appropriately named. About midnight, the wind 
 blew with great violence, and we were compelled to turn 
 out, and assist the officer of the watch in securing the instru- 
 ments. 
 
 Wednesday, April 5. We were early on the move ; the sun 
 was rising beautifully over the eastern hills; the camels were 
 straying about upon their slopes, and the flags and ostrich feathers 
 were drooping with the mist. Called all hands, breakfasted, 
 struck tents, hitched camels, and started. The carriages, with 
 the boats, were drawn by three camels each, two abreast, and 
 one as leader, with twelve spare ones, to relieve every half hour. 
 Out party numbered sixteen in all, including dragoman and cook, 
 with eleven camels, laden with baggage, tents, instruments, &c; 
 
82 BEAUTIFULSCENE. 
 
 and fifteen Bedawin, all well mounted, the followers and servants 
 of the Sherif of Mecca and Sheikh 'Akil Aga el Hassee. 
 
 Our course was at first down a narrow gorge. Through this 
 we found it impossible to drag the boats ; and therefore, deploy- 
 ing to the left, we drew them to the summit of an overhanging 
 hill, and there, taking the camels out, lowered them down by 
 hand. It was an arduous and, at times, a seemingly impracticable 
 undertaking, but by perseverance we" succeeded. 
 
 Passing along this ravine, in a south-easterly direction, for 
 three-quarters of a mile, the boats rattling and tumbling along, 
 drawn by the powerful camel trains, we came upon a branch of 
 the great plain of Buttauf. The metal boats, with the flags flying, 
 mounted on carriages drawn by huge camels, ourselves, the 
 mounted sailors in single file, the loaded camels, the Sherif and 
 Sheikh, with their tufted spears and followers, presented a glorious 
 sight. It looked like a triumphal march. 
 
 The sun was curtained, but not screened from the sight by the 
 ascending vapour, and the soft wind was wooing nature to assume 
 her green and fragrant livery. The young grain, vivified by the 
 heat, sprang up in prolific growth, and carpeted the earth with its 
 refreshing verdure. The green turf of the uncultivated patches 
 of the plain, and the verdant slopes of the hills, were literally 
 enamelled with the white and crimson aster, the pale asphodel, 
 the scarlet anemone, the blue and purple convolvulus, the cyclse- 
 men with flowers so much resembling the eglantine rose, and 
 many others of brilliant hues and fragrant odours ; while, inter- 
 spersed here and there upon the hill-sides, were clumps of trees, 
 on the branches of which the birds were singing, in the soft light 
 of an early spring morning, — enjoying, like ourselves, the balmy 
 air and smiling landscape. It was an exquisite scene, and elevated 
 the mind, while it gratified the love of the beautiful. Surely, 
 
 " There lives and works 
 A soul in all things, and that soul is God." 
 
 In front was a level lake of verdure and cultivation, and down 
 the gentle slope, towards its basin, our long cavalcade wended 
 
NAZARETH. 83 
 
 its way, — officers and men in single file, their arms glittering in 
 the sunlight, and the wild Arabs, with their lances pointed at 
 every angle, some of them mounted upon the best blood of Ara- 
 bia, and seeming impatient at the slowness of the march. 
 
 Winding around a green hill, tufted with oak, we reached 
 Khan el Dielil, now in ruins, with an excellent well beside it. A 
 few hundred yards beyond, we came to a shallow pond of water, 
 the collection of winter rains, where we stopped to water the 
 caravan. Here we took chronometer observations, — having to 
 remove some distance in consequence of the vibration caused by 
 the movement of the animals. 
 
 From this ruined khan, across the plain, bearing south, cresting 
 a lofty hill, was the castle of Sefuriceh (Sepphoris), the Dio Cesa- 
 rea of the Romans. It was, for some time, the successful rival 
 of Tiberias ; and, in the 12th century, was the great rendezvous 
 of the Crusaders before the fatal battle of Hattin. There is a 
 tradition among the Arabs, that Moses married and lived there 
 twenty years. Thence south-east, over a hill, lay Nazareth, but 
 three hours distant from us. How we grieved that our duties 
 prevented us from visiting a place which, with Bethlehem and 
 Calvary, the scenes of the birth, the residence, and the death of 
 the Redeemer, are of most intense interest to the Christian ! To 
 the left, almost due east, one hour distant, lay Cana of Galilee, 
 
 Who has not, in thought, accompanied the Saviour to that 
 marriage-feast, and thanked him from his heart, that he should 
 have gladdened with his presence the fleeting festivities of sinful 
 man, and that his first miracle should have been, to all succeed- 
 ing generations, a lesson of filial love ! 
 
 Each day, some of the Sherif's or the Sheikh's followers 
 brought us a sheep or a lamb as a present, for which, however, 
 they expected, and always received, a fair equivalent. In doing 
 so, they placed a quiet trust in Providence with regard to the 
 payment, for which they never asked. WTiere the value of things 
 is so well ascertained as among this primitive people, how much 
 better is this plan, than a higgling bargain ! 
 
 Starting again,— our route was E. N. E. along the plain; our 
 
84 WALLED VILLAGE. 
 
 Arabs caracoling their steeds, and giving us specimens of their 
 beautiful horsemanship, — plunging about, and twirling their long 
 spears, and suddenly couching them in full career, as they charged 
 upon each other. It was like the game of the djerid, of which 
 we had all read so often, except that, instead of the short blunted 
 spear of pastime, these were the sharp-pointed instruments of 
 war. The old Sherif was mounted upon a splendid grey stal- 
 lion, worth many thousand piastres, and wore himself a rich olive 
 cloth cloak, embroidered with silver. Beautiful bay mares were 
 ridden by the Sheikh and his followers, among the last were two 
 jet-black Nubians, — one of them of Herculean frame, disfigured 
 by several scars. 
 
 Coming to a broken and rocky country, we encountered much 
 difficulty with the boats. At first it seemed impossible that the 
 ponderous carriages could be drawn over such a rugged road. 
 The word road means, in that country, a mule-track. Wheel- 
 carriages had never crossed it before. In their invasion of Syria, 
 the French transported their guns and gun-carriages (the latter 
 taken apart) on the backs of camels, over the lofty ridges, and 
 mounted them again upon the plain. 
 
 At length, making a detour to the right, breaking off a project- 
 ing crag here, and filling up a hollow there, we got the boats 
 over the first ridge. It was shortly, however, succeeded by 
 another and another, and the trains were obliged to abandon the 
 road altogether. Winding along the flanks of several hills, we 
 came upon an elevated plain of cultivated fields. Turning then 
 more to the north, and skirting a ridge of rocky limestone, we 
 gradually ascended a slope covered with olive orchards. Pre- 
 sently we came in sight of Turan, an Arab village. 
 
 In our acceptation of the word, a village means a number of 
 scattered peasant dwellings, but here it is a stronghold of the 
 agricultural population. Since leaving Acre, we had not seen a 
 single permanent habitation without these walled villages. Turan 
 is quite a fortification. It is small ; the houses are built of uncut 
 and uncemented stone, with flat mud roofs, and do not exceed one 
 story in height. Just beyond the village, over the brow of the 
 
AN ARAB REPAST. 85 
 
 hill, we pitched our tents upon the outskirts of an olive orchard. 
 In the plain, immediately beneath, was fought a decisive battle 
 between the Syrians and the French. Mount Tabor bore S. S. 
 W. We were in the lands assigned to the tribe of Zebulon. 
 
 By invitation, I accompanied Sherif and 'Akil into the village, 
 and smoked a pipe and drank coffee with its Sheikh, who wore the 
 graceful and becoming turban. But for his costume, he would, 
 in our country, pass for a genteel negro, of the cross between the 
 mulatto and the black. In order to economize time and provi- 
 sions, and to prepare us for the endurance of future privations, I 
 had from the first restricted the whole party to two meals a day — 
 one early in the morning, before starting, the other when we had 
 camped for the night. There was not an objection nor a murmur. 
 
 While at supper, Dr. Anderson joined us. On his way to 
 Acre, he had, from a height, seen the expedition moving along the 
 plain. He described it as a beautiful sight. 
 
 The Sheikh of the village punctually returned my visit, and 
 was duly regaled with pipes and coffee. He seemed to prefer 
 our tobacco to his own. In the evening we went down to the 
 tent of our Arabs, pitched a short distance from us, with their 
 horses tethered near and neighing loudly. What a patriarchal 
 scene ! Seated upon their mats and cushions within, we looked 
 out upon the fire, around which were gathered groups of this 
 wild people, who continually reminded us of our Indians. Then 
 came their supper, consisting of a whole sheep entombed in rice, 
 which they pitched into without knives or forks, in the most 
 amusing manner. There was an Arab bard withal, who twanged 
 away upon his instrument, and sung or rather chanted mysterious 
 Arabic poetry. 
 
 We had ascended upwards of 1500 feet, which, better than 
 any description, will give an idea of the steepness, l>ut not of the 
 ruggedness, of the road since we left the plain of Acre. To- 
 morrow we may reach the Sea of Galilee! Inshallah! God 
 willing. 
 
 Thursday, April 6. A beautiful morning, wind light, and 
 weather very pleasant. As, in consequence of great impediments, 
 8 
 
86 MAGNIFICENT SLOPES. 
 
 the boats moved but slowly, we started with them at an early 
 hour. At 11, the camp followed us. Nothing could be more 
 picturesque than the appearance of our cavaliers of the desert, 
 when they rejoined us, mounted upon their spirited steeds, with 
 their long spears and flowing garments of every variety of hue. 
 
 At first our course was east, down a long descent, and thence 
 over the undulations of a rolling plain, to a large artificial reser- 
 voir, with an area of about three acres, partly filled with rain- 
 water, where we stopped fifteen minutes. Our friends, who had 
 preceded us, and Sherif, with one of his followers, had gone 
 to perform their devotions in a field apart. 
 
 While at this fountain, wishing to take some bearings, one of 
 our swarthy friends, in the most graceful and polite manner, held 
 one of our horses, and otherwise assisted us. Thus far these ter- 
 rible Arabs conducted themselves like gentlemen. In courtesy, 
 civilization could not improve them. 
 
 Thence we passed immediately north of the village of Lubieh, 
 differing only in its less conspicuous position, from Turan and 
 Abelin. Our Arabs rode into the village, but I declined the 
 invitation to coffee, and kept on with the cavalcade. 
 
 Since leaving the olive-groves of Turan we had not seen a tree 
 nor a bush, except on the hill-sides of Lubieh ; yet the whole sur- 
 face of the valley was dotted with unenclosed fields of growing 
 grain, and carpeted with green. 
 
 We continued rising, until we opened on our right, a magnifi- 
 cent crater-like series of slopes, with a bare glimpse of the Sea of 
 Galilee and the mountains of Bashan beyond. These slopes are 
 fields of grain, divided into rectangles of different hues and dif- 
 ferent stages of growth. Besides these, were patches of flowers 
 scattered about, — here the scarlet anemone, there the blue 
 convolvulus :«— but the gentle and luxuriant slopes looked like 
 mosaic, with a prevailing purple tinge, the hue of the thorny shrub 
 merar. On our route thus far the prevailing rock has been lime- 
 stone, but since leaving Lubieh we have met several nodules of 
 quartz, and much trap, totally destitute of minerals. The pre- 
 vailing flower is the convolvulus, from the root of which scam- 
 
THESEAOFGALILEE. 87 
 
 mony is said to be extracted. Ragged peasants were ploughing 
 in the fields ; but not a tree, not a house. Mount Tabor now bore 
 due south. 
 
 Pursuing the route along the northern ridge of this valley, in 
 half an hour we came to a fountain, on the high road from Jeru- 
 salem to Damascus. Some Christian pilgrims, from the latter to 
 the former place, were seated around it ; their tired horses, with 
 drooping heads, waiting their turn to drink. Soon after leaving 
 them, a small party passed us ; among them, the only pretty female 
 Ave had seen in Palestine : a young Syrian girl, with smooth bronze 
 skin and regular features. 
 
 Unable to restrain my impatience, I now rode ahead with 
 Mustafa, and soon saw below, far down the green sloping chasm, 
 the Sea of Galilee, basking in the sunlight ! Like a mirror it lay 
 embosomed in its rounded and beautiful, but treeless hills. How 
 dear to the Christian are the memories of that lake ! The lake 
 of the New Testament ! Blessed beyond the nature of its element, 
 it has borne the Son of God upon its surface. Its cliffs first 
 echoed the glad tidings of salvation, and from its villages the first 
 of the apostles were gathered to the ministry. Its placid water 
 and its shelving beach ; the ruined cities once crowded with men, 
 and the everlasting hills, the handiwork of God, — all identify 
 and attest the wonderful miracles that were here performed — 
 miracles, the least of which was a crowning act of mercy of an 
 Incarnate God towards his sinful and errinsr creatures. 
 
 The roadside and the uncultivated slopes of the hills were full 
 of flowers, and abounded with singing birds — and there lay the 
 holy lake, consecrated by the presence of the Redeemer ! How 
 could travellers describe the scenery of this lake as tame and 
 uninteresting ? It far exceeded my most sanguine expectations, 
 and I could scarce realize that I looked upon it. Near by was the 
 field, where, according to tradition, the disciples plucked the ears 
 of corn upon the Sabbath. Yet nearer was the spot where the 
 Saviour fed the famishing multitude ; and to the left the Mount 
 of Beatitudes, where he preached his wonderful compend of 
 wisdom and love. At its foot, as if to show how little man re- 
 
TIBERIAS. 
 
 gards the precepts of his Maker, was fought one of the most 
 dreadful battles recorded on the page of history. 
 
 I neither put implicit faith in, nor yet, in a cavilling spirit, 
 question the localities of these traditions. Unhappy is that man, 
 who, instead of being impressed with awe, or exultant with the 
 thought that he is permitted to look upon such scenes, withholds 
 his homage, and stifles every grateful aspiration with queru- 
 lous questionings of exact identities. Away with such hard- 
 hearted scepticism — so nearly allied to infidelity! What mat- 
 ters it whether in this field or an adjoining one — on this 
 mount, or another more or less contiguous to it, the Saviour- 
 exhorted, blessed, or fed his followers ? The very stones, each 
 a sermon, cry shame upon such a captious spirit — a spirit too 
 often indulged, not in the sincerity of unbelief, but to parade his- 
 torical or biblical lore. 
 
 Not a tree ! not a shrub ! nothing but green grain, grass and 
 flowers, yet acres of bright verdure. Far up on a mountain-top 
 stands conspicuous the "holy city" of Safed, the ancient Japhet. 
 Nearer is the well into which Joseph was put by his brethren. 
 Beyond the lake and over the mountains, rise majestic in the 
 clear sky the snowy peaks of Mount Hermon. We descended 
 the steep hill towards the lake. How in the world are the boats 
 ever to be got down this rocky and precipitous path, where we are 
 compelled to alight and lead our horses ? From Acre to this 
 place, we have dragged the boats along a series of valleys and 
 ridges, but from hence there is a sheer descent. This difficulty 
 overcome, we shall only have our own familiar element to deal 
 with. We must, therefore, brace ourselves to a desperate 
 effort. 
 
 The boats could come no farther than the fountain, where the 
 trains stopped for the night. Along the elevated plain the trap 
 formation made its appearance in scattered fragments, covering 
 the brown soil ; large boulders then succeeded, and on the shore 
 enormous masses crop-out in the ravines. Winding down the 
 rugged road, we descended to the city, seated on the margin of 
 the lake. Tiberias (Tubariyeh) is a walled town of some magni- 
 
OUR DOMICIL. 89 
 
 tude, but in ruins, from the earthquake which, in 1837, destroyed 
 so many of its inhabitants. Not. a house nor a tree without the 
 walls, yet cultivated fields behind and beside them. On an 
 esplanade, a short distance from the dismantled gateway, were 
 the tents of a small detachment of Turkish soldiers. 
 
 Safed and Tiberias, Jerusalem and Hebron, are the four holy 
 cities of the Jews in Palestine. Tiberias is held in peculiar 
 veneration by the Jews, for here they believe that Jacob resided, 
 and it is situated on the shores of the lake whence they hope that 
 the Messiah will arise. 
 
 Turning to the south, leaving behind us a beautiful concave 
 slope, consecrated by tradition for the miraculous draught of fishes, 
 we entered the northern half-ruined portal of the town. 
 
 We were yet in the land of Zebulon ; on the opposite side of 
 the lake are the lands of the tribe of Manasseh. 
 
 It being necessary to adjust and fix the rate of our instruments, 
 we rented part of a house in town, — many being proffered for 
 our accommodation, — indicative alike of the hospitality of the 
 people and the unprosperous condition of the place. We had 
 letters to the chief rabbi of the Jews, who came to meet us, and 
 escorted us through a labyrinth of streets to the house of Heim 
 Weisman, a brother Israelite. 
 
 Sherif and 'Akil turned up as if by magic. Here they were 
 before us, although they stopped at Lubiyeh, and we did not see 
 them pass us on the road. Nothing but their kind feelings to- 
 wards us could have induced them to enter the house of a Jew. 
 They received three rabbis, who came to see us, with much re- 
 spect, and greeted their own Muslim visitors with the true 
 oriental embrace. The governor, who was a relative of 'Akil, 
 was among the first who called. 
 
 There was no doubt of the high standing of Sherif and his 
 nephew, Sherif Musaid, a much younger and very prepossessing 
 Arab, who had recently joined us. The governor was a small 
 intelligent Arab, with a dark Egyptian complexion. Our friends 
 soon left us to quarter upon him. 
 
 Our sailors were delighted with the novelty of having a roof 
 8* 
 
90 LAKE OF TIBERIAS. 
 
 above them, and we all felt relieved in no longer hearing the 
 shrill and vociferous screams of the camel- drivers, — the noisiest 
 of the children of men. Our saloon looked out upon the lake. 
 It had mere apertures in its blank walls for doors and windows. 
 A number of swallows, regardless of our presence, flitted in and 
 out, busied in the construction of their nests amid the sustaining 
 rafters of the mud roof. The windows might have been, but, 
 from an error in its construction, the door could not be, 
 closed. Our apartment, which was at once our parlour, eating- 
 room, and chamber, was the rendezvous of all the curious. 
 
 We had fish, delicious fish from the lake, for our supper, which 
 we ate in thankfulness, although we knew that we should pay for 
 it in flesh, — for the king of the fleas, it is said, holds his court 
 in Tiberias. 
 
 We were surrounded by a motley assembly of all classes, 
 standing, sitting, or reclining in democratic disregard of all rank 
 or distinction, and looking with amazement, not unmingled with 
 mirth, at our strange and elaborate mode of eating. 
 
 Our instruments were uninjured, notwithstanding the rugged- 
 ness of the road, and we fitted them up in a separate room, 
 preparatory to a series of observations ; and then wearied, but 
 gratified, laid down to sleep. 
 
 Friday, April 7. The beams of the rising sun, reflected from 
 the lake, were dancing about on the walls of the apartment when 
 we awoke. A light breeze ruffled its surface, which 
 
 " Broke into dimples, and laughed in the sun." 
 
 There was a silence of some moments, as we looked forth upon 
 it, and the mind of each, no doubt, recurred to the time when an 
 angry wind swept across, and the Apostle of wavering faith cried, 
 " Lord, save me, or I perish !" 
 
 Our first thought was for the boats ; but, notwithstanding the 
 utmost exertions, they were only brought at sunset, to the brink 
 of the high and precipitous range which overlooked the lake from 
 the west. 
 
 In the course of the day, I returned the visit of the governor. 
 
THRALDOM OF THE JEWS. 91 
 
 He received me in a large room, opening on a small court, with 
 a divan in a recess opposite to the door. 
 
 Justice was administered with all the promptitude and simpli- 
 city of the East. On my way, I had been exasperated almost to 
 the point of striking him, by a half-grown boy beating an elderly 
 woman, who proved to be his mother. The latter made her com- 
 plaint shortly after my entrance. The case was fairly but briefly 
 examined by the governor in person, and in a few words the 
 sentence was pronounced. From the countenance of the culprit, 
 as he was led forth, I felt satisfied that he was on his way to a 
 well-merited punishment. 
 
 Another woman complained that her husband had beaten her. 
 In this, as in the previous case, the complainant directly addressed 
 the governor. The husband seemed to be a man of influence, 
 and the trial was somewhat protracted. The evidence was clear 
 against him, however, and he was made publicly to kiss her fore- 
 head, where he had struck her. 
 
 A trifling circumstance will show in what thraldom the Jews 
 are held. Our landlord, Heim Weisman, had been kind enough 
 to show me the way to the governor's. On our entrance, he 
 meekly sat down on the floor, some distance from the divan. 
 After the sherbet was handed round to all, including many dirty 
 Arabs, it was tendered to him. It was a rigid fast-day with his 
 tribe, and he declined it. It was again offered, and again declined, 
 when the attendant made some exclamation, which reached the 
 ears of the governor, who thereupon turned abruptly round, and 
 sharply called out, " Drink it." The poor Jew, agitated and 
 trembling, carried it to his lips, where he held it for a moment, 
 when, perceiving the attention of the governor to be diverted, he 
 put down the untasted goblet. 
 
 On our return, Mr. Weisman led me to a vaulted chapel dedi- 
 cated to St. Peter, built on the traditionary spot of one of the 
 miracles of our Lord. Strange that a Jew should point out to a 
 Christian the place where the Messiah, whom the first denies and 
 the last believes in, established his church upon a rock ! 
 
 The Jews here are divested of that spirit of trade which is 
 
92 TURKISH TYRANNY. 
 
 everywhere else their peculiar characteristic. Their sole occu- 
 pation, we were told, is to pray and to read the Talmud. That 
 book, Burckhardt says, declares that creation will return to primi- 
 tive chaos if prayers are not addressed to the God of Israel at 
 least twice a week in the four holy cities. Hence the Jews all 
 over the world are liberal in their contributions. 
 
 Returned the visit of the Rabbis. They have two synagogues, 
 the Sephardim and Askeniazim, but live harmoniously together. 
 There are many Polish Jews, with light complexions, among 
 them. They describe themselves as very poor, and maintained 
 by the charitable contributions of Jews abroad, mostly in Europe. 
 More meek, subdued, and unpretending men than these Rabbis 
 I have never seen. The chief one illustrated the tyranny of the 
 Turks by a recent circumstance. In consequence of the drought 
 of the preceding year there had been a failure of the crops, and 
 the Sultan, whose disposition is humane, ordered a large quantity 
 of grain to be distributed among the fellahin for seed. The latter 
 were accordingly called in ; — to him whose portion was twenty 
 okes 1 was given ten, and to him whose portion was ten, five okes 
 w r ere given, — after each had signed a paper acknowledging the 
 receipt of the greater quantity. How admirably the scriptures 
 portray the manners and customs of the east! Here is the verifi- 
 cation of the parable of the unjust steward. It is true, that in 
 this instance the decree was issued by the Turks — a compara- 
 tively modern people, — but it was carried into effect by the 
 descendants of the ancient Gentile races of the country. 
 
 In the evening we visited several of the synagogues. It was 
 impressive, yet melancholy to witness the fervid zeal of the wor- 
 shippers. In gabardines, with broad and narrow phylacteries, 
 some of them embroidered, the men were reading or rather chant- 
 ing, or rather screaming and shouting the lamentations of Jere^ 
 mias — all the time swaying their bodies to and fro with a regular 
 and monotonous movement. There was an earnest expression 
 of countenance that could not have been feigned. The tones of 
 
 1 An oke is about two and three-quarter pounds. 
 
JEWISH FEMALE COSTUME. 93 
 
 the men were loud and almost querulous with complaint ; while 
 the women, who stood apart, were more hushed in their sorrow, 
 and lowly wailed, moving the heart by their sincerity. In each 
 synagogue was an octagon recess, where the Pentateuch and 
 other sacred works were kept. Whatever they may be in worldly 
 matters, the Jews are no hypocrites in the article of faith. 
 
 The females marry very early. There was one in the house, 
 then eleven and a half years of age, who, we were assured, had 
 been married eighteen months. Mr. Weisman pointed out an- 
 other, a mere child in appearance, ten years of age, who had been 
 two years married. It seems incredible. The unmarried wear 
 the hair exposed, but the married women studiously conceal it. 
 To make up for it, the heads of the latter were profusely orna- 
 mented with coins and gems and any quantity of another's hair, 
 the prohibition only extending to their own. Their dress is a 
 boddice, a short, narrow-skirted gown, and pantalettes gathered 
 at the ankles. Unlike the Turkish and the Arab women, they 
 sometimes wear stockings. The boddice is open in front, and 
 the breasts are held, but not restrained, by loose open pockets of 
 thin white gauze. 
 
 There are about three hundred families, or one thousand Jews, 
 in this town. The sanhedrim consists of seventy rabbis, of whom 
 thirty are natives and forty Franks, mostly from Poland, with a 
 few from Spain. The rabbis stated that controversial matters of 
 discipline among Jews, all over the world, are referred to this 
 sanhedrim. 
 
 Besides the Jews, there are in Tiberias from three to four hun- 
 dred Muslims and two or three Latins, from Nazareth. 
 
 P. M. Received an express with letters from Jerusalem. Among 
 them is a firman, or buyuruldi, from the Pasha, which I transcribe 
 as a curiosity : 
 
 " Translation of Buyuruldi, 
 from the Pasha of Jerusalem. 6 April, 1848. 
 
 " Observe what is written in this, all ye who stand and see it, 
 by the Sheiks and Elders of the Arabs and keepers of the high- 
 ways : let it be known to you openly, according to this Buyuruldi, 
 
94 ABUYURULDI. 
 
 that fifteen of the honourable persons of the government of Ame- 
 rica desire to depart from this to the Sea of Lot and thereabouts, 
 there to take boats and go down into the above-mentioned sea. 
 And, accordingly, as it was necessary, we have drawn this, our 
 Buyuruldi, to you ; and it is necessary for you, ye that are 
 spoken to, that to the above persons, at their passing your dis- 
 tricts, you do all that you can for their comfort, and let no one 
 annoy them — but care and protection is required for them ; and 
 if they are in want of food or other things for price, or animals 
 for hire, you are to supply them. And if God please, no more 
 command is wanting ; but to the persons that are here mentioned, 
 by all means give comfort ; and for this reason we have drawn 
 for you this Buyuruldi from the divan of the honourable Jerusalem, 
 Nablus, and Gaza. So by this ye may know, according to what 
 is written, ye are not to do the contrary. Know and beware, and 
 know 'according to what is herein, and avoid the contrary. 
 
 J 1 Translated by Moses Tanoos, 
 
 British Consulate, 
 
 Jerusalem." 
 
 The express from Jerusalem was a Janissary, sent by the 
 Pasha, with four soldiers. In the firm belief that we should not 
 need them, I paid them and directed them to return. Our Be- 
 dawin friends served as videttes, to apprise us of danger. It was 
 only ambuscades we feared. 
 
 Saturday, April 8. A beautiful, calm morning. Quiet as a 
 sleeping infant, the lake laid in the lap of its lofty hills. Received 
 an Express from Acre, with letters. They brought intelligence of 
 revolutions in Europe. Heaven speed the cause of freedom ! 
 
 Took all hands up the mountain to bring the boats down. 
 Many times we thought that, like the herd of swine, they would 
 rush precipitately into the sea. Every one did his best, and at 
 length success crowned our efforts. With their flags flying, we 
 carried them triumphantly beyond the walls uninjured, and, amid 
 a crowd of spectators, launched them upon the blue waters of the 
 Sea of Galilee — the Arabs singing, clapping their hands to the 
 time, and crying for backshish — but we neither shouted nor 
 
HOT BATHS. 95 
 
 cheered. From Christian lips it would have sounded like pro- 
 fanation. A look upon that consecrated lake ever brought to 
 remembrance the words, "Peace! be still!" — which not only 
 repressed all noisy exhibition, but soothed for a time all worldly 
 care. 
 
 Buoyantly floated the two "Fannies," bearing the stars and 
 stripes. Since the time of Josephus and the Romans, no vessel 
 of any size has sailed upon this sea, and for many, many years, but 
 a solitary keel has furrowed its surface. 
 
 Sunday, April 9. Another glorious morning. Rose early and 
 went to the hot baths southward of the town, near the ruins of 
 Emmaus, fitted up by Ibrahim Pasha when Syria was in posses- 
 sion of the Egyptians. The road runs along the sea-beach, upon 
 which also the baths are situated. On the way we passed some 
 prostrate columns, and broken arches, and vestiges of ruins half 
 concealed beneath mounds of earth and rank vegetation. These 
 are no doubt the ruins of the ancient city of Tiberias, the present 
 site of the town being a more modern one. A short distance 
 back, the rugged face of the brown mountains, with here and 
 there a yawning cavern, overlooked the narrow plain and pellucid 
 sea. Now and then a splash of the water indicated the gambol- 
 lings of fish beneath the surface, while above, the fish-hawk sailed 
 slowly along, ready for a swoop, and just out of gun-shot a flock 
 of wild ducks were swimming about in conscious security. 
 
 It is said that these baths are much resorted to in the summer 
 months, particularly by rheumatic patients. It is Humboldt, I 
 believe, who remarks that in all climates people show the same 
 predilection for heat. In Iceland the first Christian converts 
 would be baptized only in the tepid streams of Hecla ; and in the 
 torrid zone, the natives flock from all parts to the thermal waters. 
 
 We had not time to survey the lake, — the advancing season, 
 and the lessening flood in the Jordan, warning us to lose no 
 time. We deferred making the necessary observations, there- 
 fore, until our return. The bottom is a concave basin, — the 
 greatest depth, thus far ascertained, twenty-seven and a half 
 fathoms (165 feet) ; but this inland sea, alternately rising and 
 
96 FISH IN THE SEA OF GALILEE. 
 
 falling, from copious rains or rapid evaporation, is constantly 
 fluctuating in depth. 
 
 The water of the lake is cool and sweet, and the inhabitants 
 say that it possesses medicinal properties. It produces five kinds 
 offish, all good, — viz. the "Musht," "Abu But," " Huffafah," 
 "Abu Kisher," and Burbut;" the last, from some superstitious 
 idea, is not eaten by the Jews. The musht, about one foot long 
 and four or five inches wide, resembles the sole. Burckhardt 
 mentions one called Binni, like the carp. All that we tasted, and 
 we tried to procure them all, were delicious. 
 
 In the evening, we had a long conversation with the Arab boat- 
 man, who was one of the crew of Molyneux's boat. He gave a 
 disheartening account of the great, and, as he thought, the in- 
 superable impediments to boats as large as ours. He dwelt 
 particularly upon the rapids and cascades, false channels and 
 innumerable rocks, and was inclined to think that there was a 
 cataract in the part of the river along which they transported their 
 boat upon a camel. Among other things, he stated that many 
 rivers empty into the Jordan, which I did not believe. 
 
 That we should encounter great obstacles, perhaps seemingly 
 insurmountable ones, I did not doubt ; but I had great faith in 
 American sailors, and believed that what men could do, they 
 would achieve. So there was no thought of turning back. 
 
 When in Constantinople, my patience was severely tried by a 
 countryman, who, with the best intentions, but in bad taste, gave 
 me a circumstantial account of the death of three British naval 
 officers of my name, engaged in expeditions to the East. One 
 captain and two lieutenants ; the first perishing with his vessel in 
 the Euphrates ; one of the others massacred by the Arabs, and 
 the third dying in the desert. Had their names been Jones and 
 mine Jenkins, there would have been no foreboding ; but as it 
 was, the supposed astounding information was conveyed in a 
 mysterious whisper, with an ominous shake of the head ! 
 
 The pashas and governors, in this country, have an off-hand, 
 and unfeeling mode of transacting business. When our camels 
 broke down at Acre, Sa'id Bey was applied to, by our consul, 
 
MUSTAFA, THE COOK. 97 
 
 for additional ones. There happened, unfortunately, to be a 
 fellah coming from Nazareth with two loaded camels, just then 
 without the walls. He was made to throw his sacks of grain 
 in the road; and without clothes, or communication with his 
 family, sent to assist in the transportation of our effects. By 
 chance, he found a friend to take care of his grain. Of course, 
 we knew nothing of this ; and would rather not have come at all, 
 than have our progress facilitated by such an act of tyranny. It 
 was not until about to settle with the camel- drivers, that we were 
 told of it. The poor fellah was remunerated for his loss of time, 
 and paid liberally for the use of his camels, the amount being 
 deducted from the sum contracted for with Sa'id Mustafa. 
 
 We found here an old frame boat, which I purchased for six 
 hundred piastres, about twenty-two dollars, in order to relieve 
 the other boats, lessen the expense of transportation down the 
 Jordan, and carry our tents upon the Dead Sea ; for it was fast 
 becoming warm, and we might not be able to work in that deep 
 chasm without them. We repaired and named her " Uncle 
 Sam." 
 
 Since we occupied these quarters, as well as along the route 
 from Acre, Mustafa had purchased and cooked our provisions. 
 He was inestimable ; — a genuine Arab, speaking a little English, 
 and able to boil a kettle, or roast a sheep, in a gale of wind in the 
 open air. But his great recommendation was his unvarying 
 cheerfulness at all times, and under all circumstances. Every 
 morning, before and during breakfast, our room was thronged 
 with Arabs, and Mustafa knew exactly what amount of attention 
 to bestow upon each. To the governor and the sheikhs, he ten- 
 dered the tiny cup of coffee, or the chibouque, with his head 
 bowed down, and his left hand upon his breast ; to those approach- 
 ing his own degree, they were handed with cavalier noncha- 
 lance. 
 
 Monday, April 10. It was necessary to procure other camels 
 
 here, the owners of those we brought from Acre not being willing 
 
 to trust them in the desert, for which reason we had been detained, 
 
 but not in idleness, for we were constantly occupied in making 
 
 9 
 
98 AN OGRE PRINCE. 
 
 barometrical and thermometrical observations, and taking sights 
 to ascertain the rate of the instruments. It was necessary, also, 
 to purchase and carry our provisions with us. Last night the 
 camels were reported as coming, and this morning their arrival 
 was announced. All, therefore, is the busy note of preparation. 
 
 A distinguished guest at our usual extempore levee this morn- 
 ing, was the Emir or Prince of the tribes on the upper banks of 
 the Jordan. This royal personage delights in the euphonious 
 patronymic of Emir Nasser 'Arar el Guzzaway. He had heard 
 of our purpose, and came to proffer the hospitalities of his tribes. 
 He was considerably taller and stouter than the generality of the 
 race ; his complexion was of the tint of burnt umber, his eye 
 black, lascivious, and glistening like that of a snake ; he wore a 
 tangled black beard, and, with his fang-like teeth, smiled a la 
 Carker. His costume was in no manner distinguished from that 
 of his numerous attendants, unless in its superlative uncleanliness, 
 and a pre-eminence in the liberal mode of ventilation adopted by 
 this people. 
 
 The dirty barbarian affected a love of nature, and a slight taste 
 for botany. Reclining lazily upon the cushions of the divan, with 
 a kind of oriental voluptuousness, he ever and anon raised a rose- 
 bud to his nostril, and enjoyed its fragrance with the exquisite 
 languor of a city beau. The ogre prince ! We accepted the 
 invitation, and he joined the caravan. 
 
 In order that, by a division of labour, our work might be well 
 performed, I assigned to each officer and volunteer of this expe- 
 dition his appropriate duty. With the command of the caravan, 
 Mr. Dale was to take topographical sketches of the country as he 
 proceeded, and such other notes as circumstances would permit. 
 
 Dr. Anderson was directed to make geological observations, 
 and collect specimens where he could ; Mr. Bedlow to note the 
 aspect of the country on the land route, and the incidents that 
 occurred on the march ; and Mr. Francis Lynch, who was charged 
 with the herbarium, to collect plants and flowers. 
 
 In the water party, I assigned to myself, in the "Fanny Ma- 
 son," the course, rapidity, colour, and depth of the river and its 
 
ASSIGNMENT OF DUTIES. 99 
 
 tributaries, — the nature of its banks, and of the country through 
 which it flowed, — the vegetable productions, and the birds and 
 animals we might see, w T ith a journal of events. To Mr. Aulick, 
 who had charge of the " Fanny Skinner," was assigned the topo- 
 graphical sketch of the river and its shores. 
 
 It was my anxious desire to avoid taking camels down the 
 Ghor ; but, from the best information we could obtain respecting 
 the river, I was obliged to employ them. As the Jordan was 
 represented to run between high banks, I felt that our safety and 
 the success of the expedition would depend materially upon the 
 vigilance and alacrity of the land party. I therefore placed it 
 under command of Mr. Dale. It consisted of Dr. Anderson, Mr. 
 Bedlow, Mr. Lynch, Sherif, 'Akil, Mustafa, and ten Bedawin 
 videttes. They w T ere directed to keep as near to the river as the 
 nature of the country would permit, and should they hear two 
 guns fired in quick succession, to hasten with all speed to our 
 assistance. I felt sure that Mr. Dale w T ould not fail me, and in 
 that respect my mind w T as at ease. The Sherif, 'Akil and the 
 Emir all assured me that there was no danger to the caravan, but 
 that the great fear was an attack upon the boats when entangled 
 among rocks and shoals. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FROM THE SEA OF GALILEE TO THE FALLS OF 
 BUk'aH. DEPARTURE OF THE BOATS. 
 
 Bright was the day, gay our spirits, verdant the hills, and 
 unruffled the lake, when, pushing off from the shelving beach, 
 we bade adieu to the last outwork of border civilization, and 
 steered direct for the outlet of the Jordan. The " Fanny Ma- 
 
100 THE DEPARTURE. 
 
 son" led the way, followed. closely by the " Fanny Skinner ;" 
 and the Arab boatmen of the "Uncle Sam" worked vigorously 
 at the oars to keep their place in the line. With awnings spread 
 and colours flying, we passed comfortably and rapidly onwards. 
 
 Our Bedawin friends had many of them exchanged their lances 
 for more serviceable weapons, long-barrelled guns and heavily 
 mounted pistols. 'Akil alone wore a scimetar : the priestly char- 
 acter of the Sherif forbade him to carry arms. With the addi- 
 tion of the Emir and his followers, they amounted in all to thirty 
 horsemen, and passing along the shore, in single file, their line was 
 long and imposing. Eleven camels stalked solemnly ahead, fol- 
 lowed by the wild Bedawin on their blooded animals, with their 
 abas flying in the wind, and their long gun-barrels glittering in 
 the sun-light, and Lieutenant Dale and his officers, in the Frank 
 costume, brought up the rear. 
 
 Gallantly marched the cavalcade on the land ; beautiful must 
 have appeared the boats upon the water. Little did we know 
 what difficulties w T e might have to encounter ! But, placing our 
 trust on high, we hoped and feared not. 
 
 W T e started at 2 P. M., and at 3.40, arrived at the outlet. 
 The same feeling prevented us from cheering as when we launched 
 the boats, although before us was the stream which, God willing, 
 would lead us to our wondrous destination. 
 
 The lake narrowed as we neared its southern extremity, and 
 the scenery, as we left it and advanced into the Ghor, which 
 is about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, assumed rather a 
 tame than a savage character. The rough and barren moun- 
 tains, skirting the valley on each hand, stretched far away in the 
 distance, like walls to some gigantic fosse, their southern extrem- 
 ities half hidden or entirely lost in a faint purple mist. 
 
 At 3.45, we swept out of the lake ; course, W. by N. The 
 village of Semakh on a hill to the south, and Mount Hermon 
 brought into view, to the north, the snow deep upon its crest, 
 and white parasitic clouds clinging to its sides. On the extreme 
 low point to the right were ruins, called by the Arabs, Es Sumra, 
 only a stone foundation standing. A number of wild ducks 
 
THE RIVER JORDAN. 101 
 
 ■were upon the water, and birds were flitting about on shore. 
 Our cavalcade again appeared in sight, winding along the bank. 
 The Bedawin looked fine in their dark and white and crimson 
 costumes. 
 
 Oar course varied with the frequent turns of the river, from N. 
 W. by W. to S. The average breadth about seventy-five feet; 
 the banks rounded and about thirty feet high, luxuriantly clothed 
 with grass and flowers. The scarlet anemone, the yellow mari- 
 gold, and occasionally a water-lily, and here and there a strag- 
 gling asphodel, close to the water's edge, but not a tree nor a 
 shrub. 
 
 Passing an inlet or bay, wider than the river, called El Muh, 
 which extended north a quarter of a mile, we lost sight of the 
 lake in five minutes after leaving it. Water clear and ten feet 
 deep ; saw the shore party dismounted on the right bank. Mount 
 Hermon glittering to the north, over the level tract which sweeps 
 between the mountain, the lake, and the river. 
 
 When the current was strong, we only used the oars to keep 
 in the channel, and floated, gently down the stream, frightening 
 in our descent, a number of wild fowl feeding in the marsh grass 
 and on the reedy islands. The current increasing, swept round 
 a bend of the shore, and heard the hoarse sound of a rapid. At 
 5 P. M., came in sight of the partly whole and partly crumbled 
 abutments of " Jisr Semakh," the bridge of Semakh. 
 
 The ruins are extremely picturesque ; the abutments standing 
 in various stages of decay, and the fallen fragments obstructing 
 the course of the river ; except at one point, towards the left bank, 
 where the pent-up water finds an issue, and runs in a sluice among 
 the scattering masses of stone. 
 
 From the disheartening account we had received of the river, 
 I had come to the conclusion that it might be necessary to sacri- 
 fice one of the boats to preserve the rest. I therefore decided to 
 take the lead in the Fanny Mason ; for, being made of copper, 
 quite serious damages to her could be more easily repaired ; and 
 if dashed to pieces, her fragments would serve to warn the others 
 from the danger. 
 
102 SHOOTING A RAPID. 
 
 After recormoitering the rapid, we shot down the sluice. The 
 following note was made on shore : 
 
 " We halted at the ruins of an old bridge, now forming ob- 
 structions, over which, the river rushed like a mountain torrent. 
 The river was about ninety feet wide. Soon after we halted, 
 the boats hove in sight around a bend of the river. See ! the 
 Fanny Mason attempts to shoot between two old piers ! she 
 strikes against a rock! she broaches to ! she is in imminent danger! 
 down comes the Uncle Sam upon her ! now they are free ! the 
 Fanny Skinner follows safely, and all are moored in the cove 
 below!" 
 
 As we came through the rapids, 'Akil stood upon the summit 
 of one of the abutments, in his green cloak, red tarbouch and 
 boots, and flowing white trousers, pointing out the channel with 
 a spear. Over his head and around him, a number of storks 
 were flying disorderly. 
 
 What threatened to be its greatest danger, proved the preserv- 
 ation of the leading boat. We had swept on a rock in mid- 
 channel, when the Arab crew of the Uncle Sam unskilfully brought 
 her within the influence of the current. She was immediately 
 borne down upon us with great velocity ; but striking us at a 
 favourable angle, we slid ofTthe ledge, and floated down together. 
 The Fanny Skinner, drawing less water, barely touched in 
 passing. 
 
 The boats were securely moored for the night in a little cove 
 on the right bank, and were almost hidden among the tall grass 
 and weeds which break the force of the eddy current. 
 
 We found the tents pitched on a small knoll, commanding a 
 fine view of the river and the bridge. Over the ruins of the latter 
 were yet hovering a multitude of storks, frightened from their 
 reedy nests, on the tops of the ruined abutments, by the strange 
 sights and sounds. There were two entire and six partial abut- 
 ments, and the ruins of another, on each shore. 
 
 We were upon the edge of the Ghor. A little to the north, 
 the Ardh el Hamma (the land of the bath) swept down from the 
 left. The lake was concealed, although, in a direct line, quite 
 
ARAB HOSPITALITY. 
 
 103 
 
 near ; and a lofty ridge overlooked us from the west. The soil 
 here is a dark rich loam, luxuriantly clothed, three feet deep with 
 flowers, — the purple bloom of the thistle predominates, and the 
 yellow of the marigold and the pink oleander are occasionally re- 
 lieved by the scarlet anemone. The rocks nowhere crop-out, but 
 large boulders of sandstone and trap are scattered over the sur- 
 face. Some flowers were gathered here, which equal any I have 
 ever seen in delicacy of form and tint. Among them, besides those 
 I have named, were the Adonis or Pheasant's Eye ; the Briony, 
 formerly used in medicine ; the Scabiosa Stellata, in great luxu- 
 riance, and which is cultivated at home ; and two kinds of 
 clover, — one with a thorny head, which we have never seen 
 before, and the other small but beautiful, with purple flowers. 
 
 From the eminence above, our encampment beside the rapids 
 looked charming. There were two American, one Arab, and one 
 Egyptian tents, of different colours, — white and green, and blue 
 and crimson. In the soft and mellow light of the moon, the scene 
 was beautiful. 
 
 On this side is the land of Zebulon ; that of the tribe of Gad 
 lies upon the other. 
 
 The Sheikh of Semakh holds a tract of land on a singular 
 tenure. The condition is that he shall entertain all travellers who 
 may call, with a supper, and barley for their horses. Our Beda- 
 win determined to avail themselves of the privilege. Nothing 
 could be more picturesque than their appearance as they forded 
 the stream in single file, and galloped over the hill to Semakh. 
 And what a supper they will have ! A whole sheep, and buckets 
 of rice ! l 
 
 Our friends returned late at night, splashing the water, shout- 
 ing, and making such a clatter that we sprang to our arms ex- 
 pecting an attack. Repeatedly afterwards during the night we 
 were disturbed by Dr. Anderson's horse, which, since the moment 
 he joined us at Turk, had kept the camp in constant alarm, 
 
 1 Usually, when the Sheikh is not wealthy, the tents of the tribe take it 
 in turn to entertain strangers. 
 
104 FORMIDABLE RAPIDS. 
 
 getting loose at night and rushing franticly over the tent-cords, 
 attacking some slumbering Arab steed, his bitter enemy. 
 
 Tuesday, April 11. Very early this morning culled for our 
 collection two varieties of flowers w T e had not before seen. At 
 6 A. M., called all hands, and prepared for starting. To avoid 
 stopping in the middle of the day, we were necessarily delayed 
 for breakfast in the morning. 
 
 8 A. M., started, the boats down the river, the caravan by land. 
 The current at first about 2J knots, but increasing as we descend- 
 ed, until we came to where the river, for more than three hundred 
 yards, was one foaming rapid ; the fishing-weirs and the ruins of 
 another ancient bridge obstructing the passage. There were cul- 
 tivated fields on both sides. Took everything out of the boats, 
 sent the men overboard to swim alongside, and shot them 
 successively down the first rapid. The water was fortunately 
 very deep to the first fall, where it precipitated itself over a ledge 
 of rocks. The river becoming more shallow, we opened a 
 channel by removing large stones, and as the current was now 
 excessively rapid, we pulled well out into the stream, bows up, 
 let go a grapnel and eased each boat down in succession. Below 
 us were yet five successive falls, about eighteen feet in all, with 
 rapids between, — a perfect breakdown in the bed of the river. 
 It was very evident that the boats could not descend them. 
 
 On the right of the river, opposite to the point where the weirs 
 and the ruined bridge blocked up the bed of the stream, was a 
 canal or sluice, evidently made for the purpose of feeding a mill, 
 the ruins of which were visible a short distance below. This 
 canal, at its outlet from the river, was sufficiently broad and deep 
 to admit of the boats entering and proceeding for a short distance, 
 when it became too narrow to allow their further progress. 
 
 Bringing the boats thus far, we again took everything out of 
 them, and cleared away the stones, bushes and other obstructions 
 between the mill sluice and the river. A breach was then made 
 in the bank of the sluice, and as the water rushed down the shal- 
 low artificial channel, with infinite labour, our men, cheerfully 
 assisted by a number of Arabs, bore them down the rocky slope 
 
THE RAPIDS PASSED. 105 
 
 and launched them in the bed of the river, — but not below all 
 danger, for a sudden descent of six or seven feet was yet to be 
 cleared, and some eighty yards of swift and shallow current to be 
 passed before reaching an unobstructed channel. 
 
 We accomplished this difficult passage, after severe labour, up 
 to our waists in the water for upwards of four hours. Hauled to 
 the right bank to rest and wait for our arms, and instruments. 
 We were surrounded by many strange Arabs, and therefore 
 stationed one of our men by the blunderbuss on the bows of the 
 Uncle Sam, and one each by the other boats, while the remainder 
 proceeded to bring down the arms. 
 
 Starting again, we descended a cascade, at the rate of twelve 
 knots, passing, immediately after, down a shoal rapid, where we 
 struck, and hung, for a few moments, upon a rock. Stopped for 
 the other boats, which were behind. The course of the river had 
 been very circuitous, as reference to the chart will show. 
 
 In half an hour, came to two mills, the buildings entire, but 
 the wheels and machinery gone, with a sluice which had formerly 
 supplied them with water. As in the morning, we turned the 
 water from the upper part of the sluice, into the river, carried the 
 boats along, and dragged them safely round these second series 
 of rapids. 
 
 The soil is fertile, but the country about here is wholly uncul- 
 tivated. The surface of the plain is about fifteen feet above the 
 river, thence gradually ascending a short distance to a low range 
 of hills ; beyond which, on each side, the prospect is closed in by 
 mountains. 
 
 Stopped fifteen minutes to rest, after descending the eleventh 
 rapid we had encountered. The velocity of the current was so 
 great that one of the seamen, who lost his hold (being obliged 
 to cling on outside), was nearly swept over the fall, and, with 
 very great difficulty, gained the shore. The mountains on the 
 east coast of Lake Tiberias were visible over the left bank. The 
 summit of Mount Hermon (the snowy summit could alone be seen) 
 bore N. E. by N. 
 
 At 5 P. M., passed a ravine (wady) on the left, in a bend 
 
106 AN ARAB VILLAGE. 
 
 between high, precipitous banks of earth. We here saw cane 
 for the first time, growing thickly. On the right are lofty, per- 
 pendicular banks of earth and clay. The river winding with 
 many turns, we opened, at 5.04, an extensive, uncultivated plain 
 on the right; a small, transverse, uncultivated valley, between 
 high banks, on the left ; — the wheat beginning to head. The river 
 one hundred and sixty feet wide and two and a half deep. Cur- 
 rent, four knots ; the water becoming muddy. We saw a par- 
 tridge, an owl, a large hawk, some herons and many storks, and 
 caught a trout. 
 
 Rounding a high, bold bluff, the river became wider and deeper, 
 with gravelly bottom. Passed the village of 'Abeidiyeh, a large 
 collection of mud huts, on a commanding eminence on the right ; 
 — the people, men, women, and children, with discordant cries, 
 hurrying down the hill towards the river when they saw T us. It 
 was too late to stop, for night was approaching, and we had 
 seen nothing of the caravan since we parted with it, at the ruined 
 bridge, this forenoon. 
 
 If the inhabitants intended to molest us, we swept by with too 
 much rapidity for them to carry their design into execution. 
 
 The mountain ranges forming the edges of the upper valley, as 
 seen from time to time through gaps in the foliage of the river 
 banks, were of a light brown colour, surmounted with white. 
 
 The water now became clearer, — was eight feet deep ; hard 
 bottom ; small trees in thickets under the banks, and advancing 
 into the water — principally Turfa (tamarisk), the willow (Sifsaf), 
 and tangled vines beneath. 
 
 We frequently saw fish in the transparent water ; while ducks, 
 storks, and a multitude of other birds, rose from the reeds and 
 osiers, or plunged into the thickets of oleander and tamarisk 
 which fringe the banks, — beyond them were frequent groves of 
 the wild pistachio. 
 
 At 8 P. M., reached the head of the falls and whirlpool of 
 Biik'ah ; and finding it too dark to proceed, hauled the boats to 
 the right bank, and clambered up the steep hill to search for the 
 camp. About one third up, encountered a deep dyke, cut in the 
 
RUINED VILLAGES. 107 
 
 flank of the hill, which had evidently been used for purposes of 
 irrigation. After following it for some distance, succeeded in 
 fording it, and going to the top of the hill, had to climb in the 
 dark, through briars and over stone walls, the ruins of the village 
 of Delhemiyeh. A short distance beyond, met a Bedawy with a 
 horse, who had been sent to look for us. Learned from him that 
 the camp was half a mile below the whirlpool, and abreast of the 
 lower rapids. Sent word to Mr. Aulick to secure the boats, and 
 bring the men up as soon as they were relieved, and hastened 
 on myself to procure the necessary guards, for our men were ex- 
 cessively fatigued, having been in the water without food since 
 breakfast. A few moments after, I met 'Akil, also looking for us. 
 At my request, he sent some of his men to relieve ours, in charge 
 of the boats. 
 
 The village of Delhemiyeh, as well as that of Buk'ah opposite, 
 were destroyed, it is said, by the Bedawin, the wandering Arabs. 
 Many of the villages on and near the river are inhabited by 
 Egyptians, placed there by Ibrahim Pasha, to repress the incur- 
 sions of the Bedawin — somewhat on our plan of the military 
 occupation of Florida. Now that the strong arm of the Egyptian 
 " bull-dog," as Stephens aptly terms him, is withdrawn, the fate 
 of these villages is not surprising. The Bedawin in their incur- 
 sions rob the fellahin of their produce and their crops. Miserable 
 and unarmed, the latter abandon their villages and seek a more 
 secure position, or trust to chance to supply themselves with food 
 (for of raiment they seem to have no need,) until the summer 
 brings the harvest and the robber. Once abandoned, their huts 
 fall into as much ruin as they are susceptible of, which is nothing 
 more than the washing away of the roofs by the winter rains. 
 
 Although I knew it to be important to note everything we 
 passed, and every aspect of the country, yet such was the acute 
 responsibility I felt for the lives placed under my charge, that nearly 
 all my faculties were absorbed in the management of the boats — 
 hence the meagreness of these observations. As some amends, I 
 quote from the notes of the land party. 
 
 " Our route laid through an extensive plain, luxuriant in vege- 
 tation, and presenting to view in uncultivated spots, a richness 
 
108 PROGRESS OF THE LAND PARTY. 
 
 of alluvial soil, the produce of which, with proper agriculture, 
 might nourish a vast population. On our route as we advanced, 
 and within half an hour (distance is measured by time in this 
 country) from the last halting-place, were four or five black tents, 
 belonging to those tribes of Arabs called fellahin, or agriculturists, 
 as distinguished from the wandering warrior Arab, who considers 
 such labour as ignoble and unmanly. 
 
 " Enclosing these huts was a low fence of brush, which served 
 to confine the gambols of eight or ten young naked barbarians, 
 who, together with a few sheep and a calf, were enjoying a romp 
 in the sunshine, disregarding the heat. We declined the invita- 
 tion to alight, but accepted a bowl of camel's milk, which proved 
 extremely refreshing. 
 
 " A miserable collection of mud huts upon a most command- 
 ing site, called 'Abeidiyeh, attracted our attention as we passed 
 it. The wild and savage looking inhabitants rushed from their 
 hovels and clambered up their dirt-heaps to see the gallant sight 
 — the swarthy Bedawin, the pale Franks, and the laden camels. 
 Still further on, we passed the ruins of two Arab villages, one on 
 each side of the Jordan, and upon elevations of corresponding 
 height, 'Delhemiyeh' and ' Btik'ah.' 
 
 "Below these villages, and close upon the Jordan's bank, 
 where the river in places foamed over its rocky bed with the fury 
 of a cataract, we pitched the camp. Here we were to await the 
 arrival of the boats. At 2.30 we had encamped, and at 5 they 
 had not yet arrived. The sun set, and night closed upon us, and 
 yet no signs of them. We became uneasy, and were about mount- 
 ing to go in search of them, when the captain made his appear- 
 ance." 
 
 About 9 P. M., Emir Nasser, with his suite, came to the tent. 
 After the customary cup of coffee, he said that he would go with 
 us to Bahr Lut (Dead Sea), or wherever else I wished, from pure 
 affection, but that his followers would expect to be paid, and 
 requested to know how many I required ; how far they were to 
 go, and what remuneration to receive. I replied that I was then 
 too weary to discuss the matter, but would tell him in the morn- 
 ing, and he retired. Either from exposure, or fatigue, or the 
 
ROMANTIC ENCAMPMENT. 109 
 
 effect of the water, one of the seamen was attacked with dysen- 
 tery. I anxiously hoped that he would be better in the morning, 
 for each one was now worth a host. 
 
 Our encampment was a romantic one. Above was the whirl- 
 pool ; abreast, and winding below, glancing in the moonlight, 
 was the silvery sheen of the river ; and high up, on each side, 
 were the ruined villages, whence the peaceful fellahin had been 
 driven by the predatory robber. The whooping of the owl above, 
 the song of the bulbul below, were drowned in the onward rush 
 and deafening roar of the tumultuous waters. 
 
 Every one laid down with his cartridge-belt on and his arms 
 beside him. It was the dearest wish of my heart to carry through 
 this enterprise without bloodshed, or the loss of life ; but we had 
 to be prepared for the worst. Average width of river to-day, 
 one hundred and thirty feet ; depth from two and a half to six 
 feet ; descended nine rapids, three of them terrific ones. Gene- 
 ral course, E. S. E. ; passed one island. 
 
 It was a bright moonlight night ; the dew fell heavily, and the 
 air was chilly. But neither the beauty of the night, the wild 
 scene around, the bold hills, between which the river rushed and 
 foamed, a cataract; nor moonlight upon the ruined villages, nor 
 tents pitched upon the shore, watch-fires blazing, and the Arab 
 bard singing sadly to the sound of his rehabeh, 1 could, with all 
 the spirit of romance, keep us long awake. With our hands 
 upon our firelocks, we slept soundly ; the crackle of the dry 
 wood of the camp-fires, and the low sound of the Arab's song, 
 mingling with our dreams; dreams, perchance, as pleasant as 
 those of Jacob at Bethel ; for, although our pillows were hard, 
 and our beds the native earth, we were upon the brink of the 
 sacred Jordan ! 
 
 1 The rehabeh is shaped like a miniature spade, with a short handle; 
 the lowest and widest part, covered with sheepskin on both sides, is about 
 one inch thick and five wide. The ghoss (bow) is simply a bent stick, 
 with horse-hair for strings. This instrument is, perhaps, a coarser speci- 
 men of the nokhara khana, which is played before the gateways of 
 palaces in Persia. 
 10 
 
HO THE ANCIENT GADAR A. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FROM THE FALLS OF B^k'aH TO FOURTH CAMPING 
 PLACE ON THE JORDAN. 
 
 Wednesday, April 12. Went out at daybreak this morning to 
 look at the whirlpool and rapids above and below the camp. The 
 banks were fringed with the laurestinus, the oleander, the willow, 
 and the tamarisk ; and farther inland, on the slope of the second 
 terrace, grew a small species of oak and the cedar. The arbutus 
 (strawberry tree) was mingled with the flowers of the plain. 
 From the banks to the elevated ridges, on either side, the grass 
 and the flowers presented a surface of luxuriance and beauty. 
 
 Picked up some specimens of quartz and trap. The chain of 
 transverse hills through which the Jordan forces its way, is most 
 probably that which separates the Ardh el Hamma from the vale 
 of Jezrael. 
 
 The tribes through whose territories we had passed thus far, as 
 given to me by ? Akil, were the Beshatewa, one hour above and 
 below the bridge of Semakh, numbering two hundred fighting 
 men ; next, the 'Obeidiyeh, on both sides, one hour back from 
 the river, mustering five hundred ; and the Es Stikr, in whose 
 territories we are now encamped, numbering three hundred 
 warriors. 
 
 About three hours from this, on an eminence, at the foot of 
 which flows the Yermak, is Um Keis (the mother of ruins), the 
 ancient Gadara. This place, restored by Pompey the (Great, is 
 said to contain magnificent ruins, in an extraordinary state of 
 preservation. In its wonderful tombs, it is believed that the 
 demoniac of the Gospel dwelt, when our Lord performed a 
 miracle ; and in its hot baths is laid the strange scene of incanta- 
 
DISMISSAL OF THE EMIR. Ill 
 
 tion in the life of Iamblicus, where he is said to have called up 
 the spirits of Eros and Anteros. 1 
 
 As the hot baths indicated the existence of volcanic characters, 
 which might throw light upon the geological structure of that 
 region, I gave Dr. Anderson an escort, and directed him to di- 
 verge from the line of march, visit Um Keis, and rejoin us at the 
 appointed place of rendezvous at night. 
 
 Lake Tiberias was but four hours distant, in a direct line ; 
 although we had been a day and a half on the river, so tortuous 
 is its course, and so interrupted is its channel. 
 
 Before starting this morning, I sent for the elder Sherif and 
 'Akil, and told them, and desired them to repeat to the Emir, 
 that we did not ask for, and would neither buy nor receive pro- 
 tection : — that we were willing to pay for guides and provisions, 
 and for all services rendered in descending the river, as well as 
 for all damage we might occasion to weirs or mill-dams, — but 
 for nothing more ; and that the Emir and his guides would not 
 be required beyond the limits of their territory. They said that 
 we were perfectly right ; but as the Emir had travelled to Tuba- 
 riyeh to welcome us, and had since been very useful, suggested 
 that a present should be made to him. This was reasonable ; 
 and the Emir received an aba and a koofeeyah. Among other 
 things, we had provided ourselves in Acre with articles of Arab 
 wearing apparel for occasions like the present. In this country, 
 it is usual to pay the followers of a Sheikh for services in money ; 
 but to the Sheikh himself, a present is made. With much other 
 judicious advice, the Rev. Mr. Smith had in Beirut cautioned 
 me not to employ the Arabs of one tribe as guides through the 
 territories of another. 
 
 The " Uncle Sam " foundered, notwithstanding all our exer- 
 tions to keep her afloat. Built of wood, she was less elastic than 
 our metallic boats, and the thumps upon the rocks which only 
 indented the last, shattered her. Thus ended all our hopes of 
 transporting the tents from place to place along the Dead Sea, 
 
 1 Quarterly Review. 
 
112 A DIFFICULT PASSAGE. 
 
 and thereby protect the party from the dews of night. In every 
 evil, however, there is an antidote, and we now had conclusive 
 proof of the superior qualities of metallic boats for such service. 
 Frame boats, constructed even in the strongest manner, would 
 sooner or later have shared the fate of the " Uncle Sam." 
 
 Having reconnoitred in the morning from where the boats lay 
 to the Yermak, we went immediately after breakfast to endeavour 
 to bring the former down. With a lofty hill, the terminus of a 
 lateral range on each side, there was no possibility of conveying 
 them round the falls, and we had, therefore, to shoot them. The 
 current was too strong to use the grapnel. 
 
 At 10 o'clock, cast off and shot down the first rapid, and 
 stopped to examine more closely a desperate-looking cascade 
 of eleven feet. In the middle of the channel was a shoot at an 
 angle of about sixty degrees, with a bold, bluff, threatening rock 
 at its foot, exactly in the passage. It would therefore be neces- 
 sary to turn almost at a sharp angle in descending, to avoid being 
 dashed to pieces. This rock was on the outer edge of the 
 whirlpool, which, a caldron of foam, swept round and round in 
 circling eddies. Yet below were two fierce rapids, each about 
 150 yards in length, with the points of black rocks peering above 
 the white and agitated surface. Below them again, within a mile, 
 were two other rapids — longer, but more shelving and less 
 difficult. 
 
 Fortunately a large bush was growing upon the left bank, about 
 five feet up, where the wash of the water from above had formed 
 a kind of promontory. By swimming across some distance up 
 the stream, one of the men carried over the end of a rope and 
 made it fast around the roots of the bush. The great doubt was 
 whether the hold of the roots would be sufficient to withstand the 
 strain, but there was no alternative. In order not to risk the 
 men, I employed some of the most vigorous Arabs in the camp 
 to swim by the side of the boats, and guide them, if possible, 
 clear of danger. Landing the men, therefore, and tracking the 
 Fanny Mason up stream, we shot her across, and gathering in 
 the slack of the rope, let her drop to the brink of the cascade, 
 
SHOOTING THE CASCADES. 113 
 
 where she fairly trembled and bent in the fierce strength of the 
 sweeping current. It was a moment of intense anxiety. The 
 sailors had now clambered along the banks and stood at intervals 
 below, ready to assist us if thrown from the boat and swept to- 
 wards them. One man, with me in the boat, stood by the line ; 
 a number of naked Arabs were upon the rocks and in the foaming 
 water gesticulating wildly, their shouts mingling with the noise 
 of the boisterous rapids, and their dusky forms contrasting 
 strangely with the effervescing flood, and four on each side, in 
 the water, were clinging to the boat, ready to guide her clear of 
 the threatening rock if possible. 
 
 The Fanny Mason, in the meanwhile, swayed from side to side 
 of the mad torrent, like a frightened steed, straining the line which 
 held her. Watching the moment when her bows were brought 
 in the right direction, I gave the signal to let go the rope. There 
 was a rush, a plunge, an upward leap, and the rock was cleared, 
 the pool was passed, and, half full of water, with breathless velo- 
 city, we were swept safely down the rapid. Such screaming and 
 shouting! the Arabs seemed to exult more than ourselves. It 
 was in seeming only, they were glad ; but we were grateful. Two 
 of the Arabs lost their hold and were carried far below us, but 
 were rescued with a slight injury to one of them. 
 
 It was exactly twelve o'clock when we cleared the cascade. 
 Mr. Aulick soon followed in the Fanny Skinner, and by his 
 skill and coolness passed down in perfect safety. 
 
 Stopping sufficiently long to give the men and the Arabs who 
 had assisted us some warm coffee, we started again, and at one 
 o'clock had completed the descent of the third rapid to-day. 
 Hard work for all hands. 
 
 We then passed down the fourth fall and a shelving rapid of 
 one third of a mile. Hauled over to the right bank, just above a 
 shelving rapid, with a yet more ugly sheer at an abrupt angle, and 
 waited for the Fanny Skinner. Sent for the arms, and gave 
 directions for the caravan to proceed to Jisr el Mejamia (bridge 
 of place of meeting), about three miles distant by land, but much 
 farther, and far more difficult, by the river. It was represented 
 10* 
 
114 _ RIVER YARMAK. 
 
 by our friends as the only place where the caravan and boats 
 could meet that night, and where, in the opinion of Sherif, yet 
 greater difficulties awaited us. 
 
 At 2.30, the caravan passed about a mile off, a camel being 
 detached towards us with our arms. When it came up, as all 
 the arms had been packed away, I imprudently consented to let 
 them be carried back to the caravan, taking out only a few 
 weapons that were convenient. An hour after, saw the caravan 
 again creeping along the crest of the high hills to the southward, 
 in an extended and picturesque line. There is no road ; — in other 
 words, no camel or mule track. 
 
 At 3.50, the Fanny Skinner came down, and we descended 
 the fourth rapid, rounding back from W. S. W. to S. E. by S. iii 
 a distance of ninety yards. 
 
 At 4 P. M., passed the mouth of the Yermak (Hieromax), 
 one hundred and thirty feet wide, with moderate current, its centre 
 bearing E. i S. River very rapid — this was the most perilous part 
 of our passage, owing to the great velocity of the current, about 
 twelve miles an hour, and some sunken rocks, one of which we 
 escaped by about two inches. 
 
 Stopped to examine a very steep and tumultuous rapid. On 
 hands and knees I climbed an almost perpendicular hill-side to ex- 
 amine for a passage. The hill-side and summit were thickly covered 
 with grass and flowers, which rendered it very slippery to climb. 
 
 The hill w r as about three hundred feet high, and the view from 
 the summit wild and peculiar. The high alluvial terraces on each 
 side were everywhere shaped by the action of the winter rains 
 into a number of conical hills, some of them pyramidal and cuni- 
 form, presenting the appearance of a giant encampment, so per- 
 fectly tent-like were their shapes. This singular configuration 
 extended southward as far as the eye could reach. At intervals I 
 caught a glimpse of the river in its graceful meanderings, some- 
 times glittering like a spear-head through an opening in the foliage 
 of its banks, and again, clasping some little island with its shin- 
 ing arms, or, far away, snapping with the fierceness and white 
 foam of a torrent by some projecting point. 
 
A RUINED KHAN. 115 
 
 Fortunately there were some bushes on the right bank, which 
 determined me to attempt the descent. Bearing the boats as far 
 down as we could hold them against the current, we fastened the 
 end of a rope to a bush and lowered them down to near its end; 
 then sheering in shore, fastened the rope to another bush, lowered 
 away, and dropped through one of the most frightful rapids we 
 had yet encountered. It was near sunset when both boats had 
 accomplished the passage, and it became necessary in so wild a 
 country to make every exertion to reach our friends, for we had 
 but one carbine and three pistols with us. 
 
 After shooting two more slight rapids, we came in sight of Jisr 
 Mejamia (bridge of the place of meeting), above which we landed 
 on the right shore, and ascended the cliff to examine the fall and 
 rapid immediately below. 
 
 A ruined khan crowned the crest of the hill, at the foot of 
 which large masses of volcanic rock or tufa were lying about, as 
 if shaken from the solid mass by the spasm of an earthquake. 
 The khan had evidently been a solid structure and destroyed by 
 some convulsion, so scattered were the thick and ponderous 
 masses of masonry. The bridge gracefully spans the river at this 
 point. It has one large and three smaller Saracenic arches below 
 and six smaller ones above them, four on the east and two on the 
 west side. The river, deep, narrow, and impetuous, flows 
 through the larger arch and immediately branches, — the left arm 
 rushing down a nearly perpendicular fall of about eight feet, and 
 scarce a boat's length ahead encounters the bold rock of the 
 eastern bank, which deflects it sharply to the right. The right 
 branch, winding by an island in the centre, and spreading over a 
 great space, is shallow, and breaks over a number of rocks. 
 
 Above and below the bridge and in the bed of the river are 
 huge blocks of trap and conglomerate ; and almost immediately 
 opposite is a great fissure exposing perpendicular layers of basalt, 
 the structure distinct, black, and porous. Upon the left bank, 
 which is about sixty feet above the river, a short distance up, 
 were twenty or thirty black Bedawin tents, with a number of 
 
116 ANCIENT BRIDGE. 
 
 camels grazing around, — the men seated in groups — the women, 
 the drudges of each tribe, passing to and fro, busied apparently 
 in culinary preparations, and near them were some children play- 
 ing. We decided to try the right branch, for we dreaded these 
 ugly leaps. 
 
 In some instances during the day the rapids had been perfect 
 cataracts down which the boats plunged with such velocity as to 
 drive them over the rocks below, upon which they would other- 
 wise have rested, from the shallowness of the water. 
 
 Resuming the oars, we shot through the main arch and down 
 about two hundred yards of the descent to the right, when it 
 becoming too dark, hauled to the bank and made fast for the 
 night. Took everything out of the boats and proceeded with the 
 crews to the camp, about a quarter of a mile below. Our main 
 course had been S. S. W., but the river was very serpentine. We 
 descended three very threatening and four less difficult rapids. 
 The only tributary passed was the Yermak, coming in from the 
 east, as wide, and as deep nearly as the Jordan. The current 
 was very rapid, averaging eight miles per hour. 
 
 Our tents were pitched upon a small promontory, commanding 
 a fine view of the ruined khan and the bridge, with the river 
 dashing and foaming through its arch. Directly in front, the 
 river, filled with fragmentary rocks, is quite wide, and, separat- 
 ing into several channels, forms some small sedgy islands, where 
 snipe were flitting about, and discordant frogs were croaking. 
 
 The bridge is on the road from Nabulus, through Beisan, to 
 Damascus. The second place, now in ruins, was the Bethsean 
 of the Bible, and Scythopolis of the Greeks. Saul and his three 
 sons, after the defeat under Mount Gilboa, threw themselves 
 upon their swords, and their bodies were exposed from the walls 
 of this town. 
 
 At noon to-day the thermometer stood at 90° in the shade. 
 The elder Sherif (who byway of distinction we called the Sherif) 
 and 'Akll frequently visited us in our tent. The former was our 
 counsellor, sagacious and prudent ; the latter was the bold war- 
 
A NOBLE ARAB. 117 
 
 rior and the admirable scout. On the march, it was said that he 
 contrived to get a sight of the- boats when no one else could. 
 We never tired of the company of this graceful savage. Altogether, 
 he was the most perfect specimen of manhood we had seen. 
 Looking at his fine face, almost effeminate in its regularity of 
 feature, who would imagine that he had been the stern leader of 
 revolt, and that his laughing, careless eye had ever glanced from 
 his stronghold on the hill upon the Pasha's troops in the plain, 
 meditating slaughter in their ranks and booty from the routed 
 Turk ; or searched the ravines and the hill-sides, the wady and 
 the valley, for the lurking fellahin and their herds ? That arm, 
 which, in its easy and graceful position, seemed almost nerveless, 
 had wielded the scimitar with fatal strength ; and he, seemingly 
 so mild, had successfully led a small but desperate band against 
 the authority of the Sultan, and forced the Governor of Acre to 
 treat with him, and purchase the security of the district with a 
 high office and the crimson pelisse of honour. 
 
 'Akll did not excel in physical qualities alone ; his intelligence 
 was far above mediocrity; and although a barbarian, he had much 
 of the manners and feelings of a gentleman. Indeed, we had 
 never seen manners more courtly, or an address more winning, 
 than his. He was the Achilles of our camp. 
 
 When 'Akil was this evening asked why he did not settle down 
 on some of the fertile lands in his district, and no longer live on 
 pillage, his reply was, " Would you have me disgrace myself, 
 and till the ground like a fellah ?" 
 
 When I told him that many of our most eminent men were 
 tillers of the ground, his smile was more of a contemptuous one 
 than we had ever seen upon his handsome features. This genuine 
 barbarian owned a small pistol, which he has been known to give 
 loaded to his children for a plaything. 
 
 We were all fatigued, and retired early to our hard but wel- 
 come beds. The moon was almost at her full, and the same wild 
 scene of Arabs' tents, tethered horses, and watch-fires, with the 
 strange, monotonous, song of the Bedawy bard, formed a repeti- 
 
118 PREPARATION FOR DEFENCE. 
 
 tion of last night's romance. Early in the evening, Dr. Ander- 
 son returned. In the forenoon, the weather was warm ; towards 
 noon it clouded up and looked like rain, but in the evening, 
 cleared away and was pleasant. 
 
 We were in the land of Issachar, that of Gad still opposite. 
 
 Thursday, April 13. Hearing that Muhammed Pasha, military 
 governor of the district of Nabulus, was encamped in the Valley 
 of Esdraelon (Jezral?), a short distance from Beisan, I sent 
 Lieutenant Dale, this morning, to call upon him. I considered 
 this a becoming mark of respect ; for, except Sa'id Bey, the 
 Turkish officers had been very civil to us. 
 
 Although it threatened rain yesterday, this morning's sky was 
 cloudless. After much labour we succeeded in getting the boats 
 down the rapids uninjured, except a few indentations in the bilge, 
 and got on board the arms and instruments. At 9.30, started at 
 the same time with the caravan. As we would to-day reach the 
 utmost limits of cultivation, and approach the lower Ghor — a per- 
 fect desert, traversed by warlike tribes, — the Sherif warned me to 
 be prepared. I therefore mounted the blunderbuss on the bows of 
 the Fanny Mason. Formidable it must have looked, with its 
 gaping mouth, pointed down stream, and threatening slugs and 
 bullets to all opponents. 
 
 We soon came to an ugly rapid, by a long, thatched hut on the 
 right bank. Notwithstanding all our efforts, the Fanny Mason 
 struck and broached-to, broadside on, against the rocks beneath 
 the surface, and was thrown upon her bilge, taking in a quantity 
 of water. For some moments, I feared that she would go to 
 pieces ; but, all hands jumping overboard, her combined strength 
 and buoyancy carried her safely over. On the first heights of 
 the Ghor, to the eastward, was the village of Sidum'ad; and the 
 village of Jum'ah, on the western bank. Passed the village of 
 Kaukab el Hauma, visible to the west, on a lofty height, which 
 presented trap-rock with fissures. Descended a rapid, and heard a 
 small tributary falling in, from S. E. by E., but owing to the 
 thicket, could not see it. A village in sight on a hill far to S. E. 
 
INTENSE HEAT. 119 
 
 There are evidently two terraces to the Jordan, and through 
 the lowest one, the river runs its labyrinthine course. From the 
 stream, above the immediate banks, there is, on each side, a 
 singular terrace of low hills, like truncated cones ; the upper 
 terrace of which I have spoken; which is the bluff terminus 
 of an extended table-land, reaching quite to the base of the moun- 
 tains of Hainan on the east, and the high hills on the western 
 side. Their peculiarity of form is attributable, perhaps, to the 
 washing of rain through a long series of years. The hill-sides 
 presented the appearance of chalk, without the slightest vestige 
 of vegetation, and were absolutely blinding, from the reverberated 
 sunlight. 
 
 At times we would be perfectly becalmed, the trees and bushes 
 which lined the banks intercepting the light air that came down 
 from the mountains ; — when, even at this early season, the heat 
 would be intense ; and the birds, ceasing to sing, hid themselves 
 among the foliage, from which even the noise we made could not 
 startle them. 
 
 There is nothing more vivid than the impression made by such 
 scenes — the stillness of an untrodden wilderness, when "the 
 slightest sound makes an onslaught upon silence," — a silence 
 rarely broken, except by the noise of the far-distant rapid, which 
 comes upon the ear like the wind when it sweeps the dry leaves 
 of autumn before it. 
 
 On one of these occasions, when the stream was shadowed by 
 the graceful oleander, the low, drooping willow and the fern-like 
 tamarisk, and a stillness audible prevailed, we were swept sharply 
 round the base of a high barren bluff, towards the opposite shore, 
 when it became necessary to pull out again into the channel. In 
 so doing, the water-worn banks distinctly echoed the steady beat 
 of the oars in the rullocks ; but it was soon after lost in the hoarse 
 murmur of the rapid we were approaching, which went surging 
 over the shallows in its burly, blustering course. 
 
 Passing an island about a quarter of a mile long, with many 
 trees upon it, we saw a singular gap in the mountains to the 
 southward. 
 
120 CHANGE OF CLIMATE. 
 
 Soon after reached Zor el Basha, the territories of the tribe el 
 Gaurineh (Emir Nassir's), occupying two hours on the banks of 
 the river, and numbering three hundred fighting men. Stopped 
 to take observations for the latitude. 
 
 There were many wild pigeons flying about, some of them 
 very large. Started again, and passed two successive but slight 
 rapids, with many trees in the stream, and stopped to rest in a 
 grove of tamarisk; the weather becoming warmer every day. 
 We were changing our climate in a twofold manner, by descent 
 and by progress southward. 
 
 2 P. M. Started again, the river becoming serpentine — course, 
 all round the compass. A great many Arabs on the shore, who 
 ran after us, shouting loudly. They were the subjects of the 
 Emir. Some Arab women on a high hill to the left. The river 
 one hundred and twenty feet wide, and six deep, gravelly bot- 
 tom ; current, five knots ; four Arabs in sight Soon after, 
 remarkably smooth but rapid descent, river very serpentine, five 
 feet deep ; a beautiful strip of variegated sands and marls ; passed 
 a wady, or dry ravine, on the right. Course S. W. to W. by N., 
 thick canes and thistles; water appeared to have fallen two feet 
 within the last day or two ; steady descent. 
 
 For the last hour, we had seen no rocks, but passed a small 
 rapid, the river running from left to right, across the valley. On 
 the right, a round point with an Arab encampment upon it, the 
 population in an uproar; men, women, and children shouting, 
 and running down to the landing-place ; passed a small island 
 just below. 
 
 In fifteen minutes, came to a long reach in the river ; the first 
 straight line we have seen in its entire^course, thus far. Passed 
 the territory of the tribe Es Sukr el Ghor, five hundred fighting 
 men. There were large ghurrah trees on each side. They are 
 like the aspen, and are said to bear a juicy, sweet-flavoured fruit. 
 There were many birds on shore, and several fish-hawks (hedda) 
 flying about. Passed a cluster of small islands ; and many short 
 turns in the river. Saw 'Akil, our tutelary genius, on the summit 
 
THE LAND OF I S SAC HA It . 121 
 
 of a high bank. Brought-to for the night, and secured the boats. 
 The banks were high and precipitous, but guarded in some mea- 
 sure from the erosive action of the swift current by the gnarled 
 roots of the trees and the thicket growth along the bluff. Just 
 above and below this spot, which was selected for our camping- 
 ground, the river describes a series of frantic curvilinears, and 
 returns in a contrary direction to its main course, thus forming a 
 peninsula ; and the isthmus, now rapidly wearing away on both 
 sides, bids fair speedily to become an island. The boats were 
 secured to the right bank, thirty feet below the summit. We 
 have descended to-day three large and seven small rapids; gene- 
 ral course, S. by E. We passed one small stream coming in 
 from south-east, and four small islands. The river averaged 
 one hundred and fifty feet in width, four feet depth, and five 
 knots current. 
 
 We were yet in Galilee, in the land of Issachar ; opposite was 
 Gilead, the land of Gad. 
 
 The caravan started with us this morning, 'Akil and his scouts 
 acting as guides. As far as the eye could reach, the plain ex- 
 tended before them ; the course of the river distinctly distinguish- 
 able in some of its mazes and graceful sinuosities, and again 
 hidden by some bold bluff or conical hill, at the base of which it 
 turned abruptly, and left them in doubt whether it flowed north, 
 south, east, or west. 
 
 They first passed some cultivated patches of wheat and barley, 
 even at this early season looking ripe, and nearly ready for the 
 harvest. Who would reap them ? Not a human being was in 
 the scope of vision ; nor tent, nor hut, nor sight of human dwell- 
 ing. There was no sound, except the rush of the river and the 
 noise of the wind, as it swept over the nodding grain — a yellow 
 sea ! where light seemed chasing shadows as the breeze passed 
 over. And yet, the hands that planted would come to reap them 
 in the season, — if not anticipated by the spoiler. The wheat 
 and the barley would fall before the sickle, and the hands of the 
 gleaner be busy in the steps of the reaper ; the tents would be 
 11 
 
122 A STERILE PLAIN. 
 
 spread by the river-side, and the young and the old, the strong 
 and the feeble, the youth and the young girl, would be abroad in 
 those silent fields. And when the sheaves are bound with the 
 withes, and the unmuzzled ox has trodden out the golden grain, 
 or the threshing sledge has been trailed round the slippery croft, 
 and the light wind has winnowed the uptossed wheat, — then, of 
 all their wealth close reaped and gleaned, once more upon their 
 waste, unsheltered fields, will settle silence and the desert heat. 
 
 The first hour of their journey, was through a most beau- 
 tiful tract of alluvial, the country entirely destitute of cultiva- 
 tion ; nothing but a rank luxuriance of thistles and wild grass 
 indicating the natural productiveness of the soil. The variety of 
 thorns and thistles was remarkable. 
 
 Along the banks of the river, ran a singular terrace of low hills, 
 in shape like truncated cones, which extended quite to the base 
 of the mountains. 
 
 From thistles and wild grass, they advanced into utter barren- 
 ness and desolation ; the soil presenting the appearance of chalk, 
 without the slightest vegetation. Around, and quite near, were 
 large flocks of storks, walking with exceeding vanity, and in no 
 manner alarmed or disconcerted ; some even stood on one leg, 
 in quiet contemplation of the unusual spectacle which the caravan 
 presented. 
 
 At one time, they stopped to rest; and, seated in the wilder- 
 ness, the fierce sun beat upon their heads, and glittered on the 
 barrels of their guns until they became painful to sight and touch. 
 Not a tree, nor a shelter from the heat, in that vast plain ! but up 
 from the parched and blasted earth went streaming, like visible 
 air, the waving, heated atmosphere ; and the whole extent of 
 land, to the deep-rooted hills in the purple distance, was quiver- 
 ing with the heat. 
 
 Starting afresh, a short ride brought them once more near the 
 banks of the river, down to which they turned their horses. It 
 was almost impossible to restrain the thirsty animals. At the sight 
 and sound of the flowing river, they dashed down the slope, 
 
ARAB ENCAMPMENT. 123 
 
 plunged through the thicket, and, standing mid-leg in the stream, 
 thrust in their heads to the very eyes, and drank till their whole 
 frame shook with the action. 
 
 The day was considerably advanced when they came in sight 
 of an encampment of black tents. Diverging from their line of 
 march, they ascended the steep bank to an elevated plain, upon 
 which the encampment stood. Several of the tribe came to meet 
 them, bearing the tufted spear, which indicates the presence of 
 the Sheikh himself or some of his sons. Dismounting, they 
 entered the tent pointed out to them, where mats were spread, 
 and coffee and pipes in readiness, indicating an expectation of 
 their arrival. 
 
 " Pottle-bellied children," with hair unkempt and streaming in 
 a scalp-lock (the rest of the head close-shaven), naked as cherubim 
 in a church picture, were rolling on the grass and performing 
 other gambols peculiar to that tender age. Soon after, the old 
 men and the Bedawiyeh (female Bedawin), the palms and finger- 
 nails of the latter tinged with henna, and their cheeks and lips 
 tattooed purple by the kholl powder, came forth to look upon and 
 wonder at the Franks. Several of the young girls would have 
 been pretty, were it not for the disfiguring tattoo, which gave the 
 lips an appearance almost revolting, from its resemblance to the 
 livid hue of death. Some of the young men of the tribe were 
 cast in as soft and delicate a mould as manhood is susceptible 
 of, without leaning to effeminacy. The brother of the Emir was 
 a perfect Antinous, who, however, thought more of his personal 
 beauty than became a brave, and the brother of a warlike Sheikh. 
 
 The encampment consisted of some thirty or forty of those 
 peculiarly constructed tents, made of coarse cloth of goats' hair. 
 They were supported by a row of poles in the centre, the sides 
 slightly inclined and hauled out by ropes which are pinned to 
 the ground. In shape they resemble somewhat an oblong shed, 
 and are, generally speaking, miserable substitutes for a dwelling. 
 
 The little cup, for they had but one apparently, having been 
 artistically cleansed by the thumb of the attendant Ganymede, 
 
124 A PASTORAL ENTERTAINMENT. 
 
 and presented to each in turn, the Franks, as guests, having 
 the precedence, the coffee it contained being a concentrated 
 essence of that luxury, pipes were offered, and then, submitting, 
 as usual, to be stared at, and have their arms handled and 
 inspected as if they were at muster, water was brought and poured 
 upon their hands from a very equivocal water-jar, after which 
 followed the repast. A large wooden bowl of pilau (boiled rice, 
 liberally larded with rancid butter) constituted this pastoral ban- 
 quet ; the enjoyment of which could not be attained through the 
 medium of fork or spoon, but demanded a kind of scientific con- 
 version of the hands and fingers into these civilized conveniences. 
 
 An hour's ride thence brought them to the end of the plain, or 
 tabular summit of the low range of sand-hills upon which the 
 encampment they had visited was situated. Here descending 
 the precipitous hill to the plain or terrace below, they came once 
 more upon the banks of the Jordan. Numerous black tents 
 occupied the green and richly cultivated plain, or were scattered 
 here and there, close to the river bluff, half hidden by the pale 
 green willow and the deeper shadow of the tamarisk. Here 
 they pitched the tents and waited for the boats — the whole 
 population crowding round them in speechless admiration of all 
 that transpired. 
 
 With the interpreter, (Mr. Ameuny), and the Arab escort, Mr. 
 Dale started at an early hour this morning, to call upon Muham- 
 med Pasha. The banks of the Jordan, he reports, are divided 
 into two regular steps or terraces, one on each side, between the 
 river and the mountains : 1st, a flat through which the river winds, 
 and 2d, an elevated plain. After passing a deep ravine, he came 
 upon the Emir's wheat fields which covered the sloping plain to 
 Beisan, the soil a rich marl. 
 
 Following the ravine towards Beisan, he came to quite a 
 large stream, issuing directly from the base of a hill, with a 
 solitary palm-tree near it ; the first tree of any kind he saw on the 
 elevated plain. The flat, however, was covered with trees. This 
 spring forms an oasis, and is called Ain es Sauda, the black spring. 
 
A TURKISH ENCAMPMENT. 125 
 
 Instead of passing through the ruins of Beisan, he went north, 
 about a mile distant from them. He then came in sight of a 
 magnificent valley, filled with the Pasha's tents, and a thousand 
 horses, all picketed out to graze. 
 
 Muhammed Pasha, a fat Osmanlie, received him frankly and 
 kindly. He said he was about to move his command (one thou- 
 sand Turkish cavalry), for the purpose of chastising a band of 
 bad Arabs to the southward, but delayed his march on our ac- 
 count, for fear of exasperating them to some attack upon us. He 
 gave him coffee, pipes, and oranges, and insisted upon sending 
 ten horsemen to accompany the expedition through the dangerous 
 territory. 
 
 It was a magnificent sight, the tents and the war-horses spread 
 over this beautiful plain of Jezrael, a branch of Esdraelon. 
 
 I regretted that the Pasha had sent the horsemen, for their 
 presence would tend more, perhaps, to endanger than to aid us; 
 but, as it was meant in kindness, it would have seemed rude to 
 send them immediately back, particularly as the march of the 
 Turkish encampment had been delayed on our account. But 
 the presence of the horsemen increased my anxiety : the sight of 
 them might exasperate the Arabs, and I had no faith in their 
 courage or fidelity. 
 
 The Emir insisted upon our dining with him this evening, 
 and would take no denial. It was decided that a part should go, 
 and a part remain to guard the camp. At 5, the former set out 
 to partake of the wild Arab's hospitality in his black tent. These 
 tents, as I have said, are nothing but strips of black cloth, made 
 of goats' hair, put up hut fashion, and opening in front. This 
 cloth is coarse and porous, but is said to swell when wet, and thus 
 become impervious to the rain. 
 
 When we arrived at their encampment, an Arab woman 
 screamed out and wept bitterly at the sight of 'Akil. In him 
 she recognised the murderer of her husband, in a foray the pre- 
 vious year. If 'Akil felt remorse, as he certainly must have done, 
 he possessed too much of the stoicism of the savage to let it be- 
 come apparent. 
 11* 
 
126 ARAB VORACITY. 
 
 Great was the Emir's delight at our visit, and more particularly 
 at the honour of receiving a lineal descendant of the Prophet in 
 his tent. He exhibited his flocks of sheep, his cows (the first we 
 had seen on the Jordan), his goats, his camels, and little dirty 
 objects which he called his children. There was the children's 
 pet, a beautiful young camel, three months old, white as drifted 
 snow, with hair soft and fleece-like as wool. 
 
 At sunset, a young man wearing a white turban, probably a 
 mullah (or teacher), spread his sheep-skin jacket upon the ground, 
 and stood up and called the faithful to prayer. The Sherif and 
 four others formed a line behind the mullah, who led the recita- 
 tions. While going through their prostrations, like a file of sol- 
 diers, the others were talking as usual. 
 
 To add to the scene, the file of horsemen sent by the Pasha, 
 on their way to our camp, arrived in time to partake of our din- 
 ner, just then brought in. It consisted of an enormous wooden 
 bowl filled with a stew of mutton and rice for the Arabs, and a 
 smaller one for ourselves. The sheep had been killed and dressed 
 immediately in front of the tent. All ate with their hands, — the 
 Arabs gathering up small balls of unctuous rice, and fairly cram- 
 ming them into their mouths. Hungry as we were, it was impos- 
 sible to eat ; for, although a separate bowl was placed before us, 
 we had seen the poor sheep killed, and had misgivings of the 
 cleanliness of the cook. The most we could do, was to affect 
 to eat. 
 
 It was a wild sight after dark, the tents and spears, and 
 groups of ragged Ghuarineh seated in front, around a blazing 
 fire. 
 
 It was a soft, clear night, and the dew fell heavily in the mid- 
 watch ; and the bulbul sang a low, plaintive song in the thicket, 
 and the sentinels walked to and fro upon the bank, which was 
 wearing away beneath them. 
 
 " Hark ! their heedless feet from under, 
 Drop the crumbling banks for ever ; 
 Like echoes to a distant thunder, 
 They fall into the gushing river." 
 
THE GHAUR1NEH. 127 
 
 " Some gentle thing has heard their tread," for there was the 
 sound of wings, and a quick, shrill cry, growing fainter and fainter 
 in the distance. This sweet hour of romance was broken in upon 
 by the most appalling sounds: — "To arms! to arms!" What 
 is it ? Dr. Anderson's horse has made an attack upon his unsus- 
 picious enemies. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 FROM FOURTH CAMP ON THE JORDAN TO THE 
 FORD OF SUK'WA. 
 
 Friday, April 14. A beautiful morning; but several of us 
 quite sick. Took leave of the caravan for the day, and, with 
 Sherif and the Emir, descended to the boats by the aid of the 
 gnarled and tangled roots which protruded from the face of the 
 bank ; and, with a " push off," " let fall," and " give way," we 
 shot into the current, and swept away before the eyes of the 
 wondering Ghaurineh. Their astonishment at beholding our 
 boats, and our strange appearance, had in it something extremely 
 ludicrous. On rising at an early hour this morning (for we were 
 generally up and stirring long before the lagging sun), we found 
 the whole bank lined with these wondering barbarians, who were 
 lying at full length upon the bluff, with their heads projecting 
 over the bank, and looking upon the floating wonders beneath ; 
 turning, from time to time, to regard the race to whom belonged 
 such rare inventions, such famous mechanism, as boats and six- 
 barrel revolvers. 
 
 The boats had little need of the oars to propel them, for the 
 current carried us along at the rate of from four to six knots an 
 hour, the river, from its eccentric course, scarcely permitting a 
 correct sketch of its topography to be taken. It curved and 
 twisted north, south, east, and west, turning, in the short space 
 
128 
 
 SCENERY OF THE JORDAN 
 
 of half an hour, to every quarter of the compass, — seeming as if 
 desirous to prolong its luxuriant meanderings in the calm and 
 silent valley, and reluctant to pour its sweet and sacred waters 
 into the accursed bosom of the bitter sea. 
 
 For hours in their swift descent, the boats floated down in 
 silence, the silence of the wilderness. Here and there w T ere spots 
 of solemn beauty. The numerous birds sang with a music strange 
 and manifold ; the willow branches were spread upon the stream 
 like tresses ; and creeping mosses and clambering weeds, w T ith a 
 multitude of white and silvery little flowers, looked out from 
 among them ; and the cliff-swallow wheeled over the falls, or 
 w r ent at his own w T ild will darting through the arched vistas, sha- 
 dowed and shaped by the meeting foliage on the banks ; and, 
 above all, yet attuned to all, was the music of the river, gushing 
 with a sound like that of shawns and cymbals. 
 
 There was little variety in the scenery of the river to-day. The 
 stream sometimes washed the bases of the sandy hills, and at 
 other times meandered between low banks, generally fringed 
 with trees, and fragrant w r ith blossoms. Some points presented 
 views exceedingly picturesque — the mad rushing of a mountain 
 torrent, the song and sight of birds, the overhanging foliage and 
 glimpses of the mountains far over the plain, and here and there 
 a gurgling rivulet poured its tribute of crystal water into the now 
 muddy Jordan. The western shore was peculiar, from the high 
 calcareous limestone hills, which form a barrier to the stream 
 when swollen by the efflux of the sea of Galilee during the w T inter 
 and early spring ; while the left or eastern bank was low, 'and 
 fringed with tamarisk and willow, and occasionally a thicket of 
 lofty cane, and tangled masses of shrubs and creeping plants, 
 giving it the character of a jungle. At one place, we saw the 
 fresh track of a tiger on the low clayey margin, where he had 
 come to drink. At another time, as we passed his lair, a wild 
 boar started with a savage grunt and dashed into the thicket; but, 
 for some moments, w T e traced his pathway by the shaking cane 
 and the crashing sound of broken branches. 
 
 The birds were numerous, and at times, when we issued from 
 
THE BULBUL. 129 
 
 the shadow and silence of a narrow and verdure-tented part of 
 the stream into an open bend where the rapids rattled and the 
 light burst in, and the birds sang their wildwood song, it was, to 
 use a simile of Mr. Bedlow, like a sudden transition from the 
 cold, dull-lighted hall where gentlemen hang their hats, into the 
 white and golden saloon, where the music rings, and the dance 
 goes on. 
 
 The hawk, upon the topmost branch of a blighted tree, moved 
 not at our approach, but 
 
 "Stood with the down on his beak, 
 And stared, with his foot on the preyj" 
 
 and the veritable nightingale ceased not her song, for she made 
 day night in her covert among the leaves ; and the bulbul, whose 
 sacred haunts we disturbed when the current swept us among the 
 overhanging boughs, but chirrupped her surprise, calmly winged 
 her flight to another sprig, and continued her interrupted melodies. 
 
 Unable to obtain one alive, we startled the solitude of the wil- 
 derness with a gun-shot, and secured the body of a brown- 
 breasted, scarlet-headed and crimson-winged bird, the eastern 
 bulbul. The Arabs call a pretty bird a bulbul, but Sherif, who 
 was with me in the boat, insisted upon it that it was the specific 
 name of the bird we had killed. We were less successful with 
 others of the feathered race, for although the sharp crack of the 
 rifle and the louder report of the carbine awoke the echoes of the 
 Jordan wilds, no other trophy than this unhappy bulbul could be 
 produced when we met at night. The gentle creatures seemed 
 each to bear a charmed life, for when we fired at them, they 
 would spread their wings unhurt, and dart into the thick and 
 tangled brushwood, and burst forth again in song from a more 
 hidden covert; or sometimes just rise into the air and wheel 
 above the broken sprig, or torn leaf, to settle once more as calmly 
 as if the noise which had startled them were but the familiar 
 sound of the breaking of a dried branch, or the plunge of a frag- 
 ment of the soil from the water-worn banks into the current below. 
 
 Our course down the stream was with varied rapidity. At 
 
130 MANAGEMENT OF THE BOATS. 
 
 times we were going at the rate of from three to four knots the 
 hour, and again we would be swept and hurried away, dashing 
 and whirling onward with the furious speed of a torrent. At 
 such moments there was excitement, for we knew not but that the 
 next turn of the stream would plunge us down some fearful cata- 
 ract, or dash us on the sharp rocks which might lurk unseen 
 beneath the surface. 
 
 For the reasons I have before stated, the Fanny Mason always 
 took the lead, and warned the Fanny Skinner when danger was 
 to be shunned or encountered. When the sound of a rapid was 
 distinct and near, the compass and the note-book were aban- 
 doned, and, motioning to the Fanny Skinner to check her speed, 
 our oars began to move like the antennae of some giant insect, to 
 sweep us into the swiftest, which is ever the deepest part of the 
 current ; when it caught us, the boat's crew and our Arab friend 
 Jtimah (Friday) leaped into the angry stream, accoutred as they 
 were, and, clinging to her sides, assisted in guiding the graceful 
 Fanny down the perilous descent. In this manner she was 
 whirled on, driving between rocks and shallows with a force that 
 made her bend and quiver like a rush in a running stream ; — 
 then, shooting her through the foam and the turmoil of the basin 
 below, where, in the seething and effervescing water, she spun 
 and twirled, the men leaped in, and, with oars and rudder, she 
 was brought to an eddying cove, from whence, by word and 
 gesture, she directed her sister Fanny through the channel. 
 
 Beyond these interruptions, the river flowed broad and deep, 
 yet maintaining much of the features of a torrent. 
 
 Many islands, some fairy-like, and covered with a luxuriant 
 vegetation, others mere sand-bars and sedimentary deposits, in- 
 tercepted the course of the river, but were beautiful features in 
 the general monotony of the shores. The regular and almost 
 unvaried scene of high banks of alluvial deposit and sand-hills 
 on the one hand, and the low swamp-like shore, covered to the 
 water's edge with the tamarisk, the willow, and the thick, high 
 cane, would have been fatiguing without the frequent occurrence 
 of sand-banks and verdant islands. High up in the sand-bluffs, 
 
AN ARAB HORSEMAN. 131 
 
 the cliff-swallow (asfur) chattered from his nest in the hollow, or 
 darted about in the bright sunshine, in pursuit of the gnat and the 
 water-fly. 
 
 A little before twelve o'clock we stopped to take a meridian 
 observation. This requiring but a short time, we were soon on 
 our way again, to encounter more trials in this difficult navigation. 
 As the evening shadows lengthened more and more upon the 
 stream, we repeatedly stopped to look out for the caravan. The 
 Sherif was evidently very uneasy. On each occasion the faithful 
 Jiiinah was our scout, but he never landed without putting on a 
 belt with a brace of pistols. He returned, at last, with the intel- 
 ligence that he had seen the caravan pursuing its march in the 
 distance, and w r e continued on our way. 
 
 The loud report of a carbine presently echoed among the cliffs, 
 and a flock of storks rose from the margin of the river, and flew 
 past us. The Sherif had wounded one poor fellow, and his leg 
 hung shattered and dangling, as he strove to keep up with his 
 frightened companions. His efforts were unavailing; the move- 
 ment of his wings was but a spasm of his agony, and he fell in 
 the water before us. The stream carrying him down, threw him 
 on a low marshy bank, where the poor creature was making 
 desperate efforts to drag himself from the water, as we dashed by 
 on the rapid out of sight. I could not refrain from telling Sherif 
 that it was a pity to shoot a bird unfit to eat, and not required as 
 a specimen, and which, by the Muhammedan law, w r as regarded 
 as a sacred one. 
 
 For an hour or more we swept silently down the river, and the 
 last tints of sunset were resting on the summits of the eastern 
 mountains ; wet and weary, without a change of clothes, and with 
 neither tents nor provisions, we began to anticipate a night upon 
 the river, separated from our friends, when, at a turn, we beheld 
 a horseman on the crest of a high hill, his long aba and his koo- 
 feeyah streaming in the wind. To our great delight we recog- 
 nised him to be our gallant 'Akil. He descended rapidly the 
 almost perpendicular hill-side! None but an Arab steed and 
 rider could have done it! 
 
132 CHANGE IN THE RIVER. 
 
 The brief remainder of our day's journey was rendered more 
 perilous even than the commencement, from the frequency of 
 rapids and the difficulty of navigation in the fast-fading light. 
 The swift current, as we sometimes turned a point of land, would 
 seize us and send us off at a salient angle from our course, as if it 
 had been lurking behind that point like an evil thing, to start out 
 and clutch us suddenly and dash us upon the opposite bank, or 
 run us under the low hanging boughs, as if for the purpose of 
 rubbing us all out, or injuring us against the gnarled and project- 
 ing roots, where skulked the long clammy earth-worm and the 
 green lizard. 
 
 The scenery became also more wild as we advanced ; and as 
 night, like a gloomy Rembrandt, came throwing her dark shadows 
 through the mountain gorges, sobering down the bright tints upon 
 their summits, the whole scene assumed a strange and savage 
 aspect, as if to harmonize with the dreary sea it held within its 
 midst, madly towards which the river now hurried on. 
 
 But, altogether, the descent to-day was much less difficult than 
 those which had preceded it. The course of the river formed a 
 never-ending series of curves, sometimes dashing along in rapids 
 by the base of a mountain, sometimes flowing between low 
 banks, generally lined with trees and fragrant with blossoms. 
 Some places presented views extremely picturesque, the rapid 
 rushing of a torrent, the song and sight of birds, the overhanging 
 trees, and glimpses of the mountains far over the plain. Here 
 and there a gurgling rivulet poured its tribute of pure water into 
 the now discoloured Jordan. The river was falling rapidly ; the 
 banks showed a daily fall of about two feet, and frequently we 
 saw sedge and drift wood lodged high up on the branches of 
 overhanging trees — above the surface of the banks — which con- 
 clusively proves that the Jordan in its " swellings" still overflows 
 the lower plain, and drives the lion from his lair, as it did in the 
 ancient time. 
 
 In some places the substratum of clay along the banks presented 
 the semi-indurated appearance of stone. For the first time we 
 saw to-day sand, gravel, and pebbles, along the shores, and the 
 
AN EMIR AND HIS TRIBE. 133 
 
 cane had become more luxuriant, all indicating the approach to 
 the lower Ghor. The elevated plain or terrace, on each side, 
 could be seen at intervals, and the high mountains of Aljun were 
 visible in the distance. 
 
 At 6.40 P. M., hauled up just above an ugly rapid, which runs 
 by Wady Yabes (dry ravine). 
 
 It looked too hazardous to "shoot" without lightening the 
 boats of the arms, instruments, &c, and there being no near place 
 of rendezvous below, we pitched our tents immediately against 
 the falls and opposite to the ravine. 
 
 We have, to-day, passed through the territories of the Emir 
 Nassir el Ghiizzawy, which are two hours in extent, but more 
 than twice the distance along the tortuous course of the river. 
 The tribe musters 300 fighting men. His territory, in size and 
 fertility, surpasses some of the petty kingdoms of Europe. 
 
 The Emir and some of his people have wiry hair and very dark 
 complexions, but no other feature of the African. His brother 
 and some of the tribe are bright, but less so than 'Akll and his 
 followers. The darker colour of the skin may, perhaps, be attri- 
 buted to the climate of the Ghor. 
 
 The hills, forming the banks of the upper terrace, have, to-day, 
 assumed a conical form, with scarped and angular faces, marked 
 with dark bands, and furrowed by erosions. These hills, and the 
 high banks of alluvial deposit, with abrupt and perpendicular 
 faces, indicate that the whole valley has once been covered with 
 water. The prevailing rock seen has been siliceous limestone 
 and conglomerate, — much of the last lying in fragments in the 
 river, covered with a black deposite of oxide of iron and man- 
 ganese. Towards the latter part of the day, rock was less abun- 
 dant, alluvion began to prevail, and pebbles, gravel, and sand, 
 were seen beneath the superincumbent layers of dark earth and 
 clay. Just above where we had secured the boats, were large 
 blocks of conglomerate in the stream. 
 
 The prevailing trees on the banks have been the willow, the 
 ghurrah, and the tamarisk ; the last now beginning to blossom. 
 There were many flowers, of which the oleander was the most 
 12 
 
134 TREES, FISH, AND BIRDS. 
 
 abundant, contrasting finely with the white fringe blossom of the 
 asphodel. Where the banks were low, the cane was ever at the 
 water's edge. The lower plain was covered with a luxuriant 
 growth of wild oats and patches of wild mustard in full flower. 
 
 In our course to-day, we have passed twelve islands, all, but 
 three, of diminutive size, and noted fourteen tributary streams, 
 ten on the right and four on the left bank. With the exception 
 of four, they were but trickling rivulets. 
 
 We saw many fish, and a number of hawks, herons, pigeons, 
 ducks, storks, bulbuls, swallows, and many other birds we could 
 not identify — some of them of beautiful plumage. At one time, 
 there were a number of moths flitting over the surface of the stream, 
 and we caught one of them. Its body was about the size of a 
 goose-quill, was an inch in length, and of a cream colour, widest 
 at the head, and its wings, like silver tissue, were as long as the 
 body. After frightening the wee thing by our close inspection, 
 we let it go. Just before coming in sight of camp, we observed 
 several tracks of wild boars. 
 
 In our route of upwards of twenty miles to-day, we saw the 
 scouts but twice ; and, in consequence of the nature of the coun- 
 try, the caravan was compelled to diverge so far from the river, 
 that the guns we fired from time to time at the wild-fowl were 
 unheard. 
 
 As we were now approaching the territories of the bad Arabs, 
 and were not far from the place where the boat of poor Molyneux 
 was attacked, every precaution was taken. Our tent was pitched 
 beside a brawling rapid, while all around were lances and tethered 
 horses, betraying the position of the Arabs for the night. On the 
 crest of the hill behind us, the Sherif was looking out upon the 
 vast plain to the southward, although I had just seen the old man 
 asleep on the ground near our tent. He was the counsellor, and 
 'Akil the warrior. 
 
 It was a strange sight : collected near us lay all the camels, for 
 security against a sudden surprise ; while, in every direction, but 
 ever in close proximity, were scattered, lances and smouldering 
 fires, and bundles of garments, beneath each of which was a 
 
PRECAUTIONS. 135 
 
 slumbering Arab, with his long gun by his side. The preparations 
 for defence reminded one of Indian warfare. 
 
 At nio-ht, Sherif and 'Akil came to our tent to consult about 
 to-morrow's journey. They stated their suspicions of the tribes 
 through whose territories we were about to pass, and how neces- 
 sary it would be for the land and the river parties to keep close 
 together. They gave it as their opinion, that it would be impos- 
 sible for the caravan to proceed on the western shore to-morrow, 
 and advised that early in the morning it should cross over to the 
 eastern side. This course was adopted ; and it was agreed that 
 'Akil and his scouts should keep along the western, while the 
 caravan took the eastern side, — thus having the boats between, 
 so that one or other of the land parties might be within hearing, 
 and hasten to their rescue, if attacked. It was further agreed, 
 that whenever, by the intervention of the mountains, the land 
 parties were long out of sight of the boats, scouts should be sent 
 to the summits to look out for them, and that two gun-shots, in 
 quick succession, should be the signal, if attacked. They both 
 said that there was not the slightest danger to the land parties, 
 but expressed great solicitude for the boats. Sherif thought it 
 best for him to be with the caravan to-morrow, as his influence 
 might be of service with the Sheikhs of tribes, should they be 
 inclined to hostilities. From the tortuous course of the river, it 
 was supposed that the caravan on the eastern side would be ever 
 in advance of, while the scouts on the western shore would keep 
 pace with, the boats. 
 
 Stationing the sentries, we then retired, — some of us quite ex- 
 hausted, from frequent vomiting throughout the day. I thought 
 that our Bedawin magnified the danger, to enhance their own 
 importance. But it was well to be prepared. 
 
 The course of the river varied to-day from N. E. by N. and 
 N. N. W. to S., — the true course, from the place of departure 
 this morning to our present camp, S. S. W. The width of the river 
 was as much as seventy yards, with two knots current, and narrowed 
 again to thirty yards, with six knots current : — the depth ranging 
 from two to ten feet. The trees and flowers the same as yesterday. 
 
136 TRUE CHARACTER OF THE CAMEL. 
 
 We struck three times upon sunken rocks during the day, 
 and the last time nearly lost the leading boat : with everything 
 wet, we were at length extricated, in time to direct the channel- 
 way to the Fanny Skinner. The water was slightly discoloured. 
 When we left the camp, the thermometer stood at 76° ; but in 
 a few hours the weather was oppressive. 
 
 About five miles nearly due west from the camp, were the 
 supposed ruins of Succoth. To get to this place, Jacob must 
 have made a retrograde movement after meeting Esau, and crossed 
 the Jordan, or recrossed the Jabok. 
 
 Saturday, April 15. We were up and off at an early hour this 
 morning, with less than the usual disturbance between the camel- 
 drivers and their insufferable beasts. Of all the burden-bearing 
 beasts, from the Siam elephant to the Himmaleh goat, this "ship 
 of the desert," as he has been poetically termed, — this clumsy- 
 jointed, splay-footed, wry-necked, vicious camel, with its look of 
 injured innocence, and harsh complaining voice, is incomparably 
 the most disagreeable. 
 
 Loud have been the praises of its submissive and self-sacrific- 
 ing spirit, all gentleness and sagacity; its power of enduring 
 hunger and thirst for an indefinite period, and its unwearied 
 tramp day after day through the smiting sun and over the burning 
 sands of the desert ; but this animal is anything but patient or 
 uncomplaining. As to the enormous weight it can carry, we have 
 heard it growl in expostulation at a load which the common 
 "kadish" (Syrian pack-horse) would be mortified to have allotted 
 to him as suited to his thews and sinews. 
 
 The steady little donkey, with preposterous ears and no per- 
 coptible hair on his hide, that leads the trudging caravan, and 
 eats his peck of barley (if he be a lucky donkey), and travels 
 stoutly all day long, is a model for him in endurance ; and the 
 most unhappy mule that ever bore pack, or, blindfold, turns 
 the crank of Persian water-wheel, is an example to him of patient 
 meekness and long-suffering. While on the road, they do not 
 loiter by the way, dropping their loads and committing trespasses 
 upon the fields of grain, and rarely need to be urged on by the 
 
CAUSE OF THE CAMEL'S ILL-NATURE. 137 
 
 unceasing cry of "yellah," "hemshe," and the application of 
 the belabouring cudgel of the mukris. While the u djemmel" 
 (camel), with his hypocritical, meek look, his drunken eye, and 
 sunken nether lip, begins to expostulate in a voice discordant 
 with mingled hatred and complaint, from the moment he is forced 
 upon his callous knees, until he clumsily rises with his burden 
 and goes stalking lazily on his road. 
 
 The meek enduring look of the camel is a deception ; we have 
 seen it refusing the load, or, shaking it off, rise with a roar, and 
 dash furiously at its master, even while its lip was reeking with 
 the fresh and juicy herb he had just gathered for it. 
 
 It is a pity to contradict the pleasing accounts given of this 
 friend of the wandering Bedawin, but our opinions have been 
 formed after close observation of its manners and habits in the 
 desert. Much of the ill-nature and obduracy of the camel is 
 doubtless attributable to the almost entire neglect of its owner in 
 providing food and cleansing its hide, so subject to cutaneous 
 diseases. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of towns, where it cannot graze, straw 
 is given to it ; but in the desert it must crop the thistle or the 
 parched herbage as it passes, straying from side to side in its 
 march, like the yawing of a stately ship before the wind. At 
 night, if it be necessary to keep the camels within the encamp- 
 ment for security, the mukris gather thistles, herbage and dwarf 
 bushes for them, but otherwise turn them loose to graze. There 
 is no question that if the camel were well fed and gently treated, 
 it would sustain the character ascribed to it by partial writers. 
 
 The soft, spongy, india-rubber-looking foot of the camel is 
 eaten by the Arabs, and considered a great luxury. Perhaps it 
 is the same dish to which " rare Ben Jonson " alludes, when he 
 describes our ancestors of the sixteenth century as eating — 
 
 " The tongues of carps, dormice, and camel's heels, 
 Boiled in the spirit of sol." 
 
 Leaving the place of encampment for the ford Wacabes, the 
 caravan wound round the base of a low conical sand-hill, and 
 12* 
 
138 FORDING THE RIVER. 
 
 traversed a small grove of oak and arbutus and a thick and matted 
 undergrowth of brush and briers, with long, keen, penetrating 
 thorns. Here, as had been arranged, 'Akil and his Bedawin 
 scouts separated from the caravan and proceeded down the west- 
 ern shore ; while the latter crossed over to the eastern side. 
 
 A little barren island divided the stream at the ford, and the 
 current swept by with such rapidity as to render it doubtful 
 whether the passage could be effected. Mr. Bedlow, however, 
 made the attempt, and succeeded in reaching the island with no 
 greater inconvenience than dripping extremities and a moist 
 saddle. The rest were soon in the stream, clumsy camels and 
 all, breasting and struggling with various success, against the 
 foaming current. There was a singular mixture of the serious 
 and the grotesque in this scene, and the sounds that triumphed 
 above the " tapage" of the boisterous ford, were the yells of the 
 camel-drivers and the cries of the Arabs, mingled with shouts of 
 unrestrained laughter as some impatient horse reeled and plunged 
 with his rider in the stream, and the water was scattered about 
 in froth and spray like a geyser. 
 
 The depth and impetuosity of the river caused us some appre- 
 hensions for the safety of our cook, Mustafa, who, being mounted 
 on an ill-favoured, scrubby little beast, already laden to the ears 
 with the implements and raw materials of his art, was in danger, 
 donkey and all, of being snatched from us, like another Gany- 
 mede, by the Epicurean river-gods, or borne away by some deified 
 Apicius, disguised as a donkey, for the little brute looked at times 
 as if he were swimming away, not fording the stream. The tiny 
 animal, as soon as it had achieved the passage, clambered, drip- 
 ping, up the sloping bank, and convulsively shaking his eminently 
 miscalculated ears, signalised his triumphant exploit by one pro- 
 longed, hysterical bray, which startled the wilderness, and seemed 
 to be a happy imitation of a locomotive whistle, and the sound 
 of sawing boards, declining gradually to a sob. 
 
 From the river, the banks sloped gradually to the terrace above ; 
 presenting a broad and undulating surface of sparse wild oats and 
 weeds, and a few fields of grass, intermingled with low bushes, 
 
A FLORAL PLAIN. 139 
 
 and a slender brown fringe of such light and frail structure, as to 
 bend low with the faintest breath of air. 
 
 Among this scanty herbage, and yet hidden by it in the dis- 
 tance, the earth was covered with a luxuriant growth of crimson 
 flowers (the anemone), so thickly matted together, that, to the eye, 
 the ground at times seemed covered with a crimson snow. Here 
 and there, among this sea of scarlet bloom, were patches of 
 yellow daisy, looking like little golden islands in the incarnadined 
 and floral ocean ; while the bases of the hills were fringed with 
 a light purple blossom, which not inaptly represented the foam of 
 this preternatural sea. 
 
 When the wind, sweeping down the gorges of the hills, passed 
 over the plain, a broad band of crimson marked its course ; for 
 the wild grain, light and elastic, bent low, and revealed the 
 flowers beneath it,— presenting the appearance of a phantom river 
 of blood, suddenly issuing from the earth, and again lost to sight, 
 to reappear elsewhere at the magic breath of the breeze. 
 
 This plain was bounded towards the south by a deep ravine, 
 and on its eastern and western sides it rose, in slight and irregular 
 undulations, to a higher terrace or plateau, which blended with 
 the hills in the distance, and seemed like the slopes of mountains, 
 instead of the elevated plain which we knew it to be. Except 
 upon the banks of the river, there was not a tree to be seen ; the 
 sun poured down upon hill, and valley, and stream, a flood of 
 heat and splendour, though as yet it was but early day. 
 
 Shortly after passing the rapid, immediately below our place of 
 encampment, the boats were whirled along with great velocity, 
 and barely escaped a rock near the water's edge, and directly in 
 the channel. The stream was fringed with trees of the same 
 variety as have been heretofore noticed, and we be^an to meet 
 with many false channels, which rendered our navigation more 
 tedious and difficult. 
 
 In order that no feature of the river might be omitted, I noted 
 every turn in the course, the depth, the velocity, and temperature 
 of the river ; the islands and tributary streams ; the nature of its 
 banks; the adjacent scenery when visible; the trees, flowers, 
 
140 PLANTS AND FOSSILS. 
 
 weeds, birds, and tracks of wild beasts. As all this would be 
 tedious in perusal, however necessary for the construction of a 
 chart, and an accurate knowledge of the river, I have embodied 
 it in an Appendix to the official report. 
 
 At 8.34, started from below the rapid. In half an hour, we 
 passed Wady el Hammam (ravine of the bath), with a small 
 stream coming down on the right or western side. It is a slender 
 thread of water finding its way down a chasm, a world too wide 
 for its little stream ; but, joined here and there in its meandering 
 descent by tiny tributaries, it comes rattling down its pebbly bed, 
 with the brawling joyousness of a mountain stream. Soon after, 
 came to an ugly rapid, by Wady el Malakh (ravine of salt), 
 with a small stream of clear but brackish water running down 
 from W. N. W. Beheld 'Akil and some of the scouts upon a 
 hill beyond it. Stopped to examine the rapid for a passage. Saw 
 tracks of a tiger upon the shore, and found some plants of the 
 ghurrah, its leaves triangular-shaped, of a light green colour, 
 their inner surfaces coated with a saline efflorescence : the upper 
 parts of the stem purple, the new growth a light green : the taste 
 of the stem and leaves salt and bitter. The fennel was also quite 
 abundant, the stalks of which, Jumah, our Arab friend, ate 
 greedily. There were some large blocks of fossil rock on the right 
 bank, and in the bed of the river, of which we collected speci- 
 mens. The temperature of the brackish stream was 70°. 
 
 At 11.30 A. M., we stopped to take a meridian observation of 
 the sun. Temperature of the air, 82° ; that of the river, at twelve 
 inches below the surface, at which depth it is always taken, 74°. 
 The heat was exceedingly oppressive for the thermometrical 
 range ; for, the wind being excluded by the lofty hills and over- 
 hanging trees, it was ever a perfect calm ; except when, at times, 
 it came in squalls dowm the yawning ravines. 
 
 The plain above the ravine w T as much broken, presenting abrupt 
 mounds and sand-hillocks, covered with varieties of "the thistle, 
 some of which w T ere peculiar from the sabre shape of their thorns, 
 and the rough and hairy coating of the leaves ; the latter emitting 
 a milky fluid when broken. The thorn-bushes were so large and 
 
DESOLATE MOUNTAINS. 141 
 
 so abundant as to look like apple-orchards. The sides of the 
 ravine exposed conglomerate rocks. 
 
 The hills preserved their conical shapes, with bald faces, and 
 the water was becoming of a light mud, approaching a milk colour. 
 
 Except during the heat of mid-day, when every living thing 
 but ourselves had sought refuge in the thicket or in the crevices 
 of the banks, there were birds flying about in all directions. 
 
 At 1.30 P. M., we stopped to take a sketch of the extraordinary 
 appearance of the terraces of the Jordan. 
 
 The mountains towards the east assumed a gloomy aspect to- 
 day, and stood out like rough and verdureless crags of limstone. 
 Yet, when the eye could withstand the bright glare of the illu- 
 minated cliffs and jagged ridges, it detected many portions which 
 seemed susceptible of cultivation ; and when breaks in the cal- 
 cined rocks caught the intense brilliancy, and reflected it into the 
 deep gorges, patches of verdure relieved the arid monotony; but 
 the scene, from the blinding light, permitted no minute inves- 
 tigation. 
 
 At 2.34, saw the caravan halted on the bank. Came to and 
 pitched our tents at the ford of Siik'wa, on the left or eastern 
 bank, abreast of two small islands. The plain extended six or 
 eio-ht miles on the eastern, and about three-fourths of a mile on 
 the western side. The place of encampment takes its name from 
 a village of the Sukrs, two miles distant. 
 
 'Akll was on friendly terms with this tribe, and some of them, 
 who had just come in, stated that their village was last night 
 attacked by about two hundred Bedawin, who killed several of 
 their men, and carried off nearly all their horses, cattle, and sheep. 
 
 About eighteen miles E. by N. are the ruins of Jerash, supposed 
 to be the ancient Pella, to which, Eusebius states, the Christians 
 were divinely admonished to fly, just before the siege of Jerusalem 
 by Titus. With Gadara (Urn Keis), it was One of the cities of 
 tire Decapolis. It has magnificent ruins, many of them churches, 
 and we deeply regretted our inability to visit them. Its situation 
 is said to be the most beautiful, and its ruins the most interesting, 
 in all Syria. What a field the Hauran presents for exploration ! A 
 
142 UNKNOWN ARABS. 
 
 This was a most solitary day's travel. We had not seen the 
 caravan from the time of starting until now, and 'Akil and his 
 party were visible but once. With the last exception, we did not 
 see a human being. The caravan was a little more fortunate. 
 Shortly after crossing the wady El Malakh (salt ravine), they dis- 
 covered a solitary plane tree (dilbeh), gnarled and twisted by the 
 action of the winds, its only companions the crimson poppy and 
 the golden daisy, which clustered round its protruding roots like 
 parasites. Their .attention was instantly drawn to this solitary 
 tree, for beneath its scanty shade, they saw the glitter of a spear- 
 head, and soon after, two Bedawin horsemen, who came forth, 
 and,, hastening in another direction, were soon lost in the thick 
 copse- wood which lined the ravine. For an instant, our Arabs 
 drew the rein and consulted among themselves, when four or five 
 started off at headlong speed in pursuit. Making a long detour 
 to intercept the strange horsemen, they plunged into the ravine, 
 and, like those they pursued, were soon lost to sight in the thick 
 foliage that skirted its sides. 
 
 This incident created more excitement than one so trifling would 
 seem to justify; but we were wanderers in an unknown and in- 
 hospitable wilderness, among barbarous tribes of Arabs, where 
 the only security against rapine and murder is strength of num- 
 bers and efficiency of weapons, and where the sight of a stranger 
 to the party prompts each one instinctively to feel for his carbine, 
 or grasp unconsciously the hilt of his sword. 
 
 The strange horsemen proved to be friendly Beni Sukrs on their 
 way to Beisan. 
 
 Crossing the ravine of 'Ajlun, with a considerable stream run- 
 ning down, they met some agricultural Arabs, one of whom kissed 
 Sherif 's hand. From the southern side of the ravine, they saw 
 an immense plain stretching towards the Dead Sea. Far off was 
 also visible the village of Abu 'Obeideh, containing the tomb of a 
 General of Muhamined ; some say of a great Sultan of Yemen, 
 who died on his way from Arabia Felix to Damascus. While 
 crossing an extensive plain before halting, they saw many very 
 large thistles in full bloom, the flowers various and beautiful ; and 
 
A CONTINUAL GLARE. 143 
 
 a prevailing yellow flower, called " murur " by the Arabs. Just 
 before camping, they passed large fields of wheat and barley, fast 
 ripening. 
 
 Although.the day was some hours past its meridian, the weather 
 was exceedingly sultry, and the eye ached from the reverberated 
 glare of light it had encountered since morning. 
 
 There was something in this solitude — in these spots forsaken 
 and alone in their hopeless sterility and weird silence — that begat 
 reflection, even in the most thoughtless. In all this dreary waste 
 there was no sound ; for every living thing had retired, exhausted, 
 from the withering heat and blinding glare. Silence, the fit 
 companion of desolation, was profound. The song of a bird, the 
 chirrup of a grasshopper, the drone of a fly, would have been out 
 of harmony. The wind, without which even solitude is incom- 
 plete, sounded mournfully as it went sweeping over the barren 
 plain, and sighed, even in the broad and garish day, like the blast 
 of autumn among the marshy sedge, where the cold toad croaks, 
 and the withered leaf is spotted like a leprosy. 
 
 Here, the eye looked in vain for the soft and tender sky, so 
 often beheld in utter listlessness in our own far-distant land, and 
 yet, dull and ungrateful that we were, we had remained untouched 
 with the beauty of its transparent and penetrable blue— pure azote 
 and oxygen — into the immeasurable depths of which the eye 
 pierced and wandered, but to return to earth again dazzled and 
 unfixed, as though it had caught a glimpse of infinity, and, wearied 
 and overpowered, sought the finite and the tangible,— the com- 
 prehensible reality of laminated hills, broad plains, deep valleys, 
 and the mountains, broad of girth and firmly rooted. The 
 heavens of more favoured climes, — climes as yet uncursed of 
 God ; skies, tender, deep, and crystalline, so profound in their 
 unfathomableness, and, with their lightning and black thunder- 
 cloud, so terrific in their wrath, — such skies are never seen here. 
 
 Here, there is no shifting of the scenes of natural beauty ; no 
 ever-varying change of glory upon glory ; no varied development 
 of the laws of harmony and truth, which characterises her work- 
 ing elsewhere ; no morning film of mist, or low, hanging cloud of 
 
144 AN IMPRESSIVE LANDSCAPE. 
 
 unshed dew ; no clouds of feathery cirrus, or white and wool-like 
 pinnacles of cumuli ; or light or gorgeous tints, dazzling the eye 
 with their splendours; no arrowy shafts of sunlight streaming 
 through the rifts of drifting clouds ; no silvery spikes of morning 
 shooting up in the east, or soft suffusion of evening in the west : 
 but, from the gleam of dawn, that deepens at once into intensity 
 of noon, one withering glare scorches the eye, from which, blood- 
 shot and with contracted pupil, it gladly turns away. 
 
 Here, night smoulders the flame which seems to be consuming 
 earth and heaven. Day after day, there is no change. Nature, 
 which elsewhere makes a shifting kaleidescope with clouds, and 
 sunshine, and pure azure, has here the curse of sameness upon 
 her, and wearies with her monotony. 
 
 Beneath a sky hollowed above us like a brazen buckler, and 
 refracting the shafts of smiting sunlight, we journeyed on, heeding 
 neither light nor heat, hunger nor thirst, danger nor fatigue ; but 
 each day looked cheerfully forward to the time when we should 
 be gathered on the margin of the river, — the tents all spread, the 
 boats fastened to the shore, the watch-fires blazing, and the sound 
 of human voices breaking the tyrannous silence, and giving a 
 home-like aspect to the wilderness. 
 
 The character of the whole scene of this dreary waste was 
 singularly wild and impressive. Looking out upon the desert, 
 bright with reverberated light and heat, was like beholding a 
 conflagration from a window at twilight. Each detail of the 
 strange and solemn scene could be examined as through a lens. 
 
 The mountains towards the west rose up like islands from the 
 sea, with the billows heaving at their bases. The rough peaks 
 caught the slanting sunlight, while sharp black shadows marked 
 the sides turned from the rays. Deep-rooted in the plain, the 
 bases of the mountains heaved the garment of the earth away, and 
 rose abruptly in naked, pyramidal crags, each scar and fissure as 
 palpably distinct as though within reach, — and yet they were 
 hours away , the laminations of their strata resembling the leaves 
 of some gigantic volume, wherein is written, by the hand of God, 
 the history of the changes He has wrought. 
 
VEGETATION OF THE JORDAN. 145 
 
 Towards the south, the ridges and higher masses of the range, 
 as they swept away in the distance, were aerial and faint, and 
 softened into dimness by a pale transparent mist. 
 
 The plain that sloped away from the bases of the hills was 
 broken into ridges and multitudinous cone-like mounds, resem- 
 bling tumultuous water at " the meeting of two adverse tides ;" 
 and presented a wild and chequered tract of land, with spots of 
 vegetation flourishing upon the frontiers of irreclaimable ste- 
 rility. 
 
 A low, pale, yellow ridge of conical hills marked the termina- 
 tion of the higher terrace, beneath which swept gently this lower 
 plain, with a similar undulating surface, half redeemed from bar- 
 renness by sparse verdure and thistle-covered hillocks. 
 
 Still lower was the valley of the Jordan ! The sacred river ! 
 Its banks fringed with perpetual verdure ; winding in a thousand 
 graceful mazes ; its pathway cheered with songs of birds and its 
 own clear voice of gushing minstrelsy ; its course a bright line in 
 this cheerless waste. Yet beautiful as it is, it is only rendered so 
 by contrast with the harsh, dry, calcined earth around. The 
 salt-sown desert ! 
 
 There is no verdure here that can vie, in intensity or richness, 
 with that which June bestows upon vegetation in our own more 
 favoured but less consecrated land ; where the margins of the 
 most unnoticed woodland stream are decked with varieties of tree 
 and shrub in almost boundless profusion. 
 
 Here are no plumy elms, red-berried ash, or dark green hazel ; 
 no linden, beach, or aspen; no laurel, pine, or birch; and yet, 
 unstirred by the wind, the willow and the tamarisk droop over 
 the glittering waters, with their sad and plume-like tresses ; the 
 lily bending low, moistens its cup in the crystal stream, and the 
 oleander blooms and flowers on the banks. Amid the intricate 
 foliage, cluster the anemone and the asphodel, and the tangled 
 copse is the haunt of the bulbul and the nightingale. There is a 
 pleasure in these green and fertile banks, seen far along the slop- 
 13 
 
146 THE ZUKKUM. 
 
 ing valley ; a tracery of life, amid the death and dust that hem 
 it in ; — 
 
 "A thing of beauty 'and a joy for ever," 
 
 so like some trait of gentleness in a corrupt and wicked heart. 
 
 Soon after camping, Sherif brought to me a fruit or nut which 
 was described by the land party as growing upon a small thorny 
 tree. The fruit is somewhat like a small date, but of an olive- 
 green colour, the bark of the tree smooth, the leaves thin, long, 
 and oval, and of a brighter green than the bark or fruit. It is 
 bitter and acrid to the taste, and is called by our Arabs the " zuk- 
 kum," which is declared by the Koran to be the food of infidels 
 in hell. Dr. Robinson, quoting Maundrell and Pocoke, describes 
 it as the "balsam tree," from the nut of which the oil of Jericho 
 is extracted — called by the pilgrims Zaccheus' oil, from the belief 
 that the tree which bears it was the one climbed by Zaccheus. 
 Scripture, as Dr. Robinson states, renders it, with more proba- 
 bility, the sycamore or plane tree. The "zukkum" is little more 
 than a shrub in height, and its branches are covered with thorns. 
 One of the land party brought in a leaf of the osher plant, 
 which bears the Dead Sea fruit. It is oval, thick, and of a deep 
 green colour, very much resembling that of the caoutchouc or 
 India-rubber plant ; the flower a delicate purple, growing in pyr- 
 amidal clusters. The fruit was not yet formed. The centre of 
 the unripe stalk is pithy, like the alder, and discharges a viscous 
 milky fluid when cut or broken. 
 
 At sunset, bathed in the refreshing waters of the Jordan. Sherif 
 says that the Muhammedans are divided into two sects, the 
 Shiahs, believing in the Koran only, and the Sunnites, in both the 
 Koran and tradition. In the strict sense of the term they are all 
 Unitarians, and hold Christians as idolaters, for their belief in and 
 worship of the divinity of the Saviour and the Paraclete. They 
 believe in the interposition of angels in human affairs, and in the 
 resurrection and final judgment. They are divided in opinion 
 with regard to purgatory, or an intermediate state after death, and 
 hold Moses, the Saviour, and Muhammed, to have been prophets 
 
NOCTURNAL APPREHENSIONS. 147 
 
 of God, the last, the greatest. And yet in his absurd night jour- 
 ney to heaven, Muhammed makes Moses and the other prophets 
 desire his prayers, but asks himself for those of the Saviour. 
 They believe that another, in the semblance of the Redeemer, was 
 crucified in his stead. When I asked Sherif if he did not think 
 that a good Christian might get to heaven, he answered, 
 
 " How can you hope it, when you insult the God you believe in, 
 by supposing that He died the ignominious death of a criminal?" 
 This people, sensually imaginative, are incapable of a refined, 
 spiritual idea ; and the arch-impostor, Muhammed, well under- 
 stood the nature of his countrymen. 
 
 Heretofore, we have been lulled to sleep by the hoarse sound 
 of a rapid ; except those who, having to encounter it, felt natu- 
 rally solicitous for the result. The noise of a rapid is much 
 louder by night ; and one a mile off, sounds as if it were madly 
 rushing through the camp. We were now, however, compara- 
 tively quiet. 
 
 As the attack upon the neighbouring village, last night, showed 
 that bad Arabs were about, and there had been many strangers in 
 the camp during the evening ; after all but the sentries had retired 
 to rest, I went round to see that each one had his ammunition- 
 belt on and his weapons beside him ; and repeated the injunction 
 to rally round the blunderbuss in the event of an alarm. But the 
 night passed away quietly. 
 
 Late in the first watch, an interesting conversation was over- 
 heard between 'Akil and the Nassir. 
 
 Last year, while in rebellion against the government, 'Akil, at 
 the head of his Bedawin followers, had swept these plains, and 
 carried off a great many horses, cattle, and sheep ; among them 
 the droves and herds of the Nassir. There had, in consequence, 
 been little cordiality between them since they met at Tiberias ; 
 but, to-night, Nassir asked 'Akil if he did not think that he had 
 acted very badly in carrying off his property. The latter an- 
 swered no ; that Nassir was then his enemy, and that he, 'Akil, 
 had acted according to the usages of war among the tribes. The 
 Nassir then asked about the disposition made of various animals, 
 
148 ARAB FRATERNIZATION. 
 
 and especially of a favourite mare. 'Akil said that he had killed 
 so many of the sheep, given so many away, and sold the rest ; 
 the same with the cattle and horses. As to the mare, he said he 
 had taken a fancy to her, and that it was the one he now rode. 
 This the Emir knew full well. 
 
 After some further conversation, Nassir proposed that they 
 should bury all wrongs and become brothers. To this 'Akil 
 assented. The former, thereupon, plucked some grass and earth, 
 and lifting up the corner of 'Akil's aba, placed them beneath it ; 
 and then the two Arabs embracing, with clasped hands, swore 
 eternal brotherhood. 
 
 When questioned, immediately after, upon the subject, 'Akil 
 stated that so obligatory was the oath of fraternity, that should he 
 hereafter carry off any thing from a hostile tribe, which had once, 
 no matter how far back, been taken from the Emir, he would be 
 bound to restore it. 
 
 As an instance, he mentioned that when he was in the service 
 of Ibrahim Pasha, there were nine other tribes besides his own ; 
 and that in one of their expeditions they carried off a number of 
 sheep, forty of which were assigned as his portion ; that shortly 
 after, an Arab came forward and claimed some of them on the 
 ground of fraternization. 'Akil told him that he did not know 
 and had never seen him before ; but the man asserted and proved 
 that their fathers had exchanged vows, and the sheep claimed 
 w r ere consequently restored. 
 
 These Bedawin are pretty much in the same state as the barons 
 of England and the robber knights of Germany were, some cen- 
 turies back. 
 
 We have, to-day, descended ten moderate and six ugly rapids, 
 and passed three tributaries to the Jordan, two quite small, and 
 one of respectable size. Also four large and seventeen small 
 islands. We have now reached a part of the river not visited by 
 Franks, at least since the time of the crusades, except by three 
 English sailors, who were robbed, and fled from it, a short dis- 
 tance below. The streams have all names given them by the 
 Arabs, but the islands are nameless and unknown. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE JORDAN. 149 
 
 The course of the river, to-day, has varied from north-west to 
 south, and from thence to east ; but the prevailing direction has 
 been to the southward and westward. The velocity of the cur- 
 rent has ranged from two to eight knots per hour ; the average 
 about three and a half knots. The depth has been in proportion 
 to the width and velocity of the stream. At one place the river 
 was eighty yards wide and only two feet deep. The average 
 width has been fifty-six yards, and the average depth a little more 
 than four feet. 
 
 Where the river was narrow, the bottom was usually rock or 
 hard sand, and in the wider parts soft mud. In the narrowest 
 parts, also, the river flowed between high banks ; either bald-faced 
 alluvial hills, or conglomerate, — in one place, fossil rock. Where 
 the stream was wide, the banks were low alluvion ; towards the 
 latter part of the day, resting upon sand or gravel. Where the 
 stream was wide and sluggish, running between alluvial banks, 
 the water was discoloured ; in some places of a milky hue. 
 Where narrow, and flowing between and over rocks, it was com- 
 paratively clear. At starting, in the morning, the temperature of 
 the air was 78°, and of the water, twelve inches below the surface, 
 71°. In the course of the day, the former rose eight and the 
 latter three degrees. Excepting once, early in the afternoon, 
 when a light air from the eastward swept through an opening, it 
 was a perfect calm, and the heat felt oppressive ; yet less so, than 
 the dazzling glare of light. We have twice, to-day, struck on 
 rocks, but suffered no material damage. 
 
 Our encampment was close to the river's edge, where the banks 
 were thickly wooded and the soil sandy. In front, the stream 
 was divided by a small island, below which was the ford of 
 Suk'wa. 
 
 The scene of camping for the night is ever a busy one. The 
 uprearing of tents, the driving of the tent-pins, the wearied camels 
 standing by, waiting to be disburdened, all remind one forcibly 
 of the graphic descriptions of the Bible. There are other features, 
 too, illustrative of our brotherhood with the children of the desert 
 — Sherif, seated beneath a tree, or under the shadow of a rock, 
 13* 
 
150 PICTURESQUE GROUPS. 
 
 issuing commands to his immediate followers, and 'Akil recon- 
 noitering from the summit of a hill, or scouring about the plain, 
 stationing the outposts. 
 
 With us, too, everything bore the aspect of a military expedi- 
 tion through a hostile territory. The boats, when practicable, 
 were securely moored in front, and covered by the blunderbuss ; 
 the baggage was piled between the tents, and the sentries paced 
 to and fro in front and rear. 
 
 Among the trees which bordered the river-bank, the horses of 
 our Arab friends were this evening tethered, while our own 
 luxuriously enjoyed a clandestine supper in the wheat-field near 
 at hand. 
 
 At this time, our benign and ever-smiling Mustafa with his 
 bilious turban and marvellous pants, wide and draperied, but not 
 hiding his parenthetical legs, seemed almost ubiquitous. At one 
 time, he was tearing something madly from his laden donkey ; 
 and the next, he was filling pipes, and, hand on breast, present- 
 ing them with low salaams ; or, like a fiend, darting off after the 
 Doctor's horse, which, having evaded the watchful Hassan, was 
 charging upon the others, and frightening " the souls of his fear- 
 ful adversaries" with the thunder of his nostrils. 
 
 The day had been one of intense heat, and the physical relaxa- 
 tion, caused by fatigue and exposure, made us extremely sensitive 
 to the chilly atmosphere of evening. 
 
 The pale light of the rising moon, and the red flush of sunset, 
 made the twilight linger, and gave to the east and the west the 
 appearance of an auroral ice-light. The dew fell early and heavily, 
 and the firm white sand of the river-bank was cold to the feet. 
 
 As night advanced, the blaze of our watch-fires dispelled, to a 
 great extent, the chill of the air around us. Our Arab scouts 
 were posted on the hills which overlooked the camp, and our 
 own guards, with glittering carbines and long, keen bayonets, 
 were pacing in front and rear of the baggage and the tents. The 
 scene was wild and picturesque. 
 
 Around the blazing fires, which shot long, flickering tongues 
 of flame into the night, and seemed to devour darkness, were 
 
ARAB MUSIC. 151 
 
 gathered in circles, groups of Franks and wild Bedawin, solemnly 
 smoking the chibouque, drinking coffee, or listening eagerly, as, 
 with wild gesticulations, one related an adventure of the day, or 
 personal incident of times gone by. Who, in the desert or the 
 wilderness, would not listen to the veriest idle legend that ever 
 beldame croaked over the blaze of "Yule," on Christmas eve ? 
 
 The camels were lying here and there about the camp, silent 
 and motionless, utterly unconscious of their merit as objects in the 
 picturesque. 
 
 The tents were pitched upon a sandy bank, in a small opening, 
 flanked by groves of willow and tamarisk, with an inner edging 
 of acacia. The ford ran diagonally from bank to bank, across 
 the most impetuous but shallow part of the stream. The bright 
 watch-fires threw bars of red and trembling light over the sha- 
 dowed waters, and illuminated the sombre willow groves beyond, 
 among which, as if entangled in their boughs, hung motionless, 
 as clouds hang in the chasms of mountains, a long and silvery 
 film of unfallen dew ; while the purple shadows of the distant 
 hills mingled with the cold grey of the evening, rendering all 
 beyond dim and mysterious; and the peaked and jagged outlines 
 of the lofty range, cut sharp against the sky, now faint and pale, 
 yet relieved by the beautiful swell and regular waving curvature 
 of the lower hills. 
 
 Before the blue tent of Sherif were gathered our Arab friends, 
 a large circle of swart faces, illuminated by the light of a crackling 
 fire, listening to 'AkiPs bard, who sang Arabic love-songs, to the 
 accompaniment of his rehabeh, or viol of one string. 
 
 As we drew near to enjoy this wild, romantic concert, the 
 Sherif and 'Akil, stepping forth from the circle, invited us among 
 them, with an urbanity and kindness of manner, unsurpassed by 
 the courtesy of highest civilization. Mats were spread for us at 
 the opening of the tent, and the Tourgiman having interpreted 
 their many expressions of welcome, the bard was requested to 
 continue the music, which had been interrupted by our approach. 
 
 Without affecting a slight cough, or making vain excuses, he 
 immediately complied. With his semicircular bow he began a 
 
152 AN ARAB MINSTREL. 
 
 prelude, " fashioning the way in which his voice should go," and 
 then burst forth in song. The melody was as rude as the instru- 
 ment which produced it, a music, not such as Keats describes — 
 
 "Yearning like a God in pain 3" 
 
 but a low, long-drawn, mournful wail, like the cry of the jackal 
 set to music. He sang of love, but had it been a dirge, the wail 
 of the living over the dead, it could not have been more heart- 
 rending and lugubrious. There was no passion, no mirthfulness, 
 no expression of hope or fear ; but a species of despairing, chro- 
 matic anguish ; and we could not refrain from regarding the in- 
 strument as an enchanted sexton's spade, singing of the graves it 
 had dug, and the bodies it had covered with mould. 
 
 And yet, these children of the desert enjoyed the performance, 
 and from under the dark brows, made darker by the low, slouch- 
 ing koofeeyah, their eyes glistened, and the red light gleamed on 
 glittering teeth displayed in smiles of approbation. 
 
 These demonstrations of enjoyment appeared strange to us ; 
 for the song, to our ears, told only of mattocks and shrouds and 
 the grave-digger's song in Hamlet ; — 
 
 " A pickaxe and a spade, a spade, 
 For , and a winding sheet." 
 
 The bard was not a true Bedawy, but of Egyptian parentage, 
 and resembled more our ideas of a ghoul than a human being. 
 Low of stature and slightly built, he was thin, even to attenuation ; 
 and his complexion of a pale, waxy, cadaverous hue. His eyes 
 were small, black, and piercing, shadowed by thick pent-house 
 brows, which, like his straggling beard, was nearly red ; his lips 
 were livid, his teeth white and pointed, and the nails of his skinny 
 hands as long as talons. His whole appearance assisted materi- 
 ally in sustaining the ideas of coffins and palls, mildew and worms, 
 and other grave-yard garniture. 
 
 The costume of the minstrel was not materially different from 
 that of his Bedawin companions. His head, like theirs, was 
 closely shaven above the temples, and covered with a small red 
 
THE MINSTREL'S ATTIRE. 153 
 
 skull-cap or tarbouch, over which was thrown the koofeeyeh, a 
 coarse cotton shawl or kerchief, with broad stripes of white and 
 yellow, triangularly folded, the ends ornamented with a plaited 
 fringe, hung on each side of the face down to the shoulders, and 
 was confined over the tarbouch by tw T o bands of the akal, a roughly 
 twisted, black cord of camel'sjiair. An aba, or narrow cloak 
 made of camel's hair, of extremely coarse texture, broadly striped 
 white and brown, and fashioned like the Syrian burnoose, or 
 horseman's cloak, hung negligently about his person. 
 
 Beneath the aba he wore a long, loose cotton shirt, of very 
 equivocal white, confined at the waist by a narrow leathern belt ; 
 and a pair of faded red buskins, 
 
 u A world too wide for his shrunk shanks," 
 
 and fearfully acute at the toes, where they curved like a sleigh- 
 runner, completed his costume. 
 
 While the bard and his rehabeh discoursed most melancholy 
 music for our entertainment, the black and aromatic kahweh T 
 (coffee) was handed round by an attendant of 'Akll Aga, — a tall, 
 w T iry -framed Nubian, w T ith keen white teeth, and a complexion as 
 black as Orcus, — black even to the surface of the heavy lips, and 
 with a skin drawn with extreme tension over the angular facial 
 bones, giving it the dry and embalmed appearance of a Mem- 
 phian mummy. 
 
 Each of us having drunk his little cup of coffee and smoked a 
 pipe, the stem of which had run the gauntlet of every pair of lips 
 in that patriarchal group, w r e w T ere about to retire, when the Emir 
 Nassir, the wild, old blackguard, seizing (he never took anything) 
 the "sexton's spade" (the rehabeh), to our unfeigned astonish- 
 ment, commenced a song, as if he too w T ere a ghoul and could 
 give us in character some church-yard stave in honour of his 
 ghostly trade. 
 
 1 Kahweh is an old Arabic term for wine ; Turkish, kahveh ; Italian, 
 caffe , French, cafe; English, coffee. Can it be that the Muslims, in 
 their affection, preserved the name of the beverage interdicted by their 
 prophet ? 
 
154 the emir's love-song. 
 
 Translated by the Tourgamin, and versified by Mr. Bedlow, 
 his song ran thus : 
 
 "At her window, from afar, 
 I saw my love, my Bedawiyeh, 
 Her eyes shone through her white kinaa, 
 It made me feel quite faint to see her." 
 
 While singing, the Ogre Prince looked with grotesque devoted- 
 ness and an inimitable languishing air upon Sherif Musaid, sitting 
 near him, who, for the nonce, he had idealized into his " love," 
 his " Bedawiyeh." The song was evidently a foreign one, per- 
 haps derived from Persia. An Arab poet would have placed his 
 love at the opening of the tent, or beside the fountain. A Beda- 
 wiyeh, the fawn of the desert, and a window, the loop-hole of 
 what they consider a prison, accord but ill together. 
 
 The amateur musician surpassed the professional one, and the 
 prince transcended the bard, as well in execution as in the quality 
 of his voice. The music, although more varied in character and 
 modulation, was essentially the same in its prevailing sadness. 
 Truly " all the merry-hearted do sigh " in this strange land ; a 
 land from which " gladness is taken away," and mirth, where it 
 doth exist, hath a dash of grief and a tone of desperate sorrow. 
 The sound of tabret and harp, of sackbut and psaltery, the lute, 
 the viol, and the instrument of two strings, are heard no more in 
 the land ; and the " rehabeh," with its sighing one string, befits 
 the wilderness and the wandering people who dwell therein. 
 
 Not even the Emir, although he threw all the mirth he could 
 command into his voice, and touched the string with quick, elastic 
 fingers, striking out notes and half-notes with musical precision ; 
 — although his dark eyes flashed and his white teeth glistened, as 
 he smiled seductively upon Musaid, and swayed his body to and 
 fro, and nodded his head to the measure of his minstrelsy, and 
 triumphed over the bard, and won applause with every verse, he 
 could not change the tone, — there was the same sad minor run- 
 ning through the song. 
 
 Those low, complaining notes lingered in our ears long after 
 
DEPARTURE. 155 
 
 the sound had ceased, and the Arabs were gathered in sleep 
 around the smouldering watch-fires. 
 
 Towards morning, the wind swept down upon us from the 
 mountain gorges, and caused some of us to dream of snow-drifts 
 and icicles, and unseasonable baths in cold streams. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 FROM FORD OF SUK'wi TO PILGRIM'S FORD. 
 
 Sunday, April 16. A pleasant day — wind light from north-east. 
 We were on the move early this morning. Sherif was very 
 uneasy about the boats ; and yet thought it advisable for him to 
 be with the caravan. He was urgent that the Emir should ac- 
 company us on the river. The latter excused himself on the plea 
 of headache. 
 
 After a cup of coffee, taken standing, started off with the boats, 
 leaving the caravan to cross over again, and proceed down the 
 right bank. 
 
 I found that our Arabs were utterly ignorant of the course of 
 the river, or the nature of its current and its shores. Heretofore, 
 we had been enabled to see the caravan at least once in a day's 
 journey; but, yesterday, from the impossibility of penetrating 
 along the left bank and the high precipitous character of the hills 
 on the right, we saw nothing of them, and our meeting even at 
 night, was, for a long time, very doubtful. 
 
 The country presented the same appearance as yesterday, 
 except that conglomerate or any kind of rock was rarely seen ; 
 but, in their stead, banks of semi-indurated clay. The lower 
 plain was evidently narrower and the river often swept alternately 
 against the hills, mostly conical in their shape, and with bald 
 
156 CHANGE IN THE VEGETATION. 
 
 faces, which flank the lower and mark the elevation of the upper 
 plain. 
 
 These various ramifications of mountain ranges and intervening 
 platforms and valleys afford, according to Humboldt, evidences 
 of ancient volcanic eruptions undergone by the crust of the globe, 
 these having been elevated by matter thrust up in the line of 
 enormous cracks and fissures. 
 
 The vegetation was nearly the same in character, save that it 
 was much more luxuriant and of brighter tint on the borders of 
 the stream; more parched and dull on either side beyond it. 
 The oleander increased ; there was less of the asphodel, and the 
 acacia was rarely seen, as heretofore, a short distance inland. 
 The tamarisk was more dense and lofty, and the canes were fre- 
 quently thick and impenetrable. There were many drift-trees in 
 the stream, and bushes and branches were lodged high up in the 
 trees which lined the banks ; and much above the latter, conclu- 
 sive marks of a recent freshet. There were many trees on each 
 side, charred and blackened by fire — caused, doubtless, by the 
 Arabs having burned the dried-up grass to renew their pastures. 
 The ghurrah was also becoming abundant ; and we noticed that 
 whenever the soil was dry, the leaves of this tree were most 
 silvery. 
 
 About an hour after starting, we came to the place where Mo- 
 lyneux's boat was attacked while he was journeying down by 
 land. Stopped to examine. It is just above a very rapid part 
 of the river, where the boat could not have been stopped if the 
 crew had kept her in the stream, unless most of them had been 
 killed by gunshots from the shore. As they all escaped, I con- 
 cluded that they were surprised when asleep, or loitering on their 
 way. We here saw tracks of a tiger, and of other wild beasts 
 which we could not identify. 
 
 In many places the trees were drooping to the water's edge, 
 and the channel sometimes swept us under the branches, thereby 
 preventing us from carrying our awnings; in consequence of 
 which, we suffered more than heretofore from exposure to the sun. 
 
 At 8.30, there were Arabs in sight on a high hill, and we heard 
 
SUSPICIOUS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 157 
 
 others in the swamp ; apprehending a stratagem, we laid on the 
 oars and stood by our arms ; but we were not molested. 
 
 In an hour, saw again tracks of wild animals on shore, and 
 struck upon a snag, the current very strong. Soon after, saw- 
 some of our scouts on a hill. Stopped to take meridian observa- 
 tions. Temperature of the air, 92° ; of the water, 72°. 
 
 At 12.05, started again, and were hailed by Arabs on a high 
 hill to the right, asking whether the horsemen who had passed 
 were friends or enemies. We supposed that they referred to our 
 scouts. Again saw tracks of wild animals upon the shore ; also 
 a great many wild pigeons, some of them very large. The banks, 
 hereabouts, were of red clay, resting on white ; the last, semi- 
 indurated, and appearing like stone. There were many fissures 
 in the hills, and much debris fallen into the stream. 
 
 Shortly after, passed under an overhanging tree, with a bush 
 fifteen feet up in its branches, lodged there by the recent freshet ; 
 for it was deciduous, and the green leaves of the early season 
 were upon it. The river must this year have overflowed to the 
 foundations of the second terrace. We saw some drooping lily- 
 plants, long past their flowering. 
 
 At 2 P. M,, the river running between high triangular hills, 
 we struck in descending a rapid ; clothes, note-book, and papers, 
 thoroughly wet, but the boats uninjured. 
 
 Soon after, came in sight of the encampment, the tents, as 
 heretofore, already pitched ; — the camping-place, Mukutta Damieh 
 (Ford of Damieh), where the road from Nabulus to Salt crosses 
 the river. 
 
 We made but a short day's journey, in consequence of there 
 not being another place where the boats and caravan could meet 
 between this and the bathing-place of the Christian pilgrims. 
 
 Soon after our arrival, both Sherif and 'Akil, calling me aside, 
 expressed their belief that the Emir feigned a headache in the 
 morning from fear of going in the boats. The same idea had 
 occurred to me before, but was dismissed as an ungenerous one. 
 They, however, cited circumstantial but conclusive proof that 
 their suspicion was not unfounded. 
 14 
 
158 PREPARATIONS FOR AN ATTACK. 
 
 In the early part of their march to-day, the caravan anticipated 
 a skirmish. A strange Arab, supposed to belong to a marauding 
 party, was seen in the distance. The line was closed and the 
 scouts came in, all but a few that were sent to reconnoitre a deep 
 ravine in front. Although but one man was seen, it was suspected 
 that many were concealed in the ravine ; for directly opposite 
 was a large encampment of black tents. 
 
 Our Bedawin felt or feigned a conviction that an engagement 
 would take place, and all due preparations were immediately 
 made. The camels were halted, and the horsemen, collecting 
 in front, waited for the reconnoitering scouts to return. In the 
 mean time, our Arabs went through their feats of horsemanship, 
 singing their war-song, and seemed to be endeavouring to work 
 themselves into a state of phrensy. At their solicitation, Mr. 
 Dale laid aside his hat and put on a tarbouch and koofeeyeh. 
 Guns were unslung and freshly capped, and swords were loosened 
 in their scabbards. 
 
 The other party, however, kept aloof, proving neither hostile 
 nor friendly, and 'Akil, as he passed, contemptuously blew his 
 nose at them. They were believed to belong to the tribe El 
 Bely or El Mikhail Meshakah, whose territories were hereabouts. 
 Doubtless, they were the same who hailed us, to know whether 
 the horsemen who had passed were friends or enemies. 
 
 After dinner, some of the party crossed the river to examine 
 the ruins of a bridge, seen by the land party from the upper ter- 
 race, just before descending to the river. They had to force their 
 way through a tangled thicket, and found a Roman bridge span- 
 ning a dry bed, once, perhaps, the main channel of the Jordan, 
 now diverted in its course. To the best of our knowledge, this 
 bridge has never before been described by travellers. 
 
 We were amused this evening at witnessing an Arab kitchen 
 in full operation. The burning embers of a watch-fire were 
 scraped aside, and the heated ground scooped in a hollow to the 
 depth of six or eight inches, and about two feet in diameter. 
 Within this hole was laid, with scrupulous exactness of fit and 
 accommodation to its concave surface, a mass of half-kneaded 
 
AN ARAB BAKE-OVEN. 1 59 
 
 dough, made of flour and water. The coals were again raked 
 over it, and the fire replenished. A huge pot of rice was then 
 placed upon the fire, into which, from time to time, a quantity 
 of liquid butter was poured, and the compound stirred with a 
 stout branch of a tree, not entirely denuded of its leaves. When 
 the mess was sufficiently cooked, the pot was removed from the 
 fire, the coals again withdrawn, and the bread taken from its 
 primitive oven. Besmeared with dirt and ashes, and dotted with 
 cinders, it bore few evidences of being an article of food. In 
 consistency, as well as in outward appearance, it resembled a 
 long-used blacksmith's apron, rounded off at the corners. The 
 dirtiest ash-pone of the southern negro would have been a deli- 
 cacy, compared to it. 
 
 The whole party gathered round the pot in the open air, and 
 each one tearing off a portion of the leather-bread, worked it into 
 a scoop or spoon, and, dipping pell-mell into the pilau, made a 
 voracious meal, treating the spoons as the Argonauts served their 
 tables, eating them for dessert. With a foot-wash in the Jordan, 
 they were immediately after ready for sleep, and in half an hour 
 were as motionless as the heaps of baggage around them. 
 
 Monday, April 17. At an early hour, Mustafa, shivering and 
 yawning, was moving about in preparation of the morning meal. 
 Long before the sun had risen over the mountains of Gilead, the 
 whole encampment was astir, and all was haste, for there was 
 a long day's work before us. 
 
 Although the air was damp and chilly, we knew, from past 
 experience, that before noon the sun would blaze upon us with a 
 power sufficient to carbonize those who should be unprotected 
 from its fierceness. Moreover, from the plateau behind our 
 camp, we could see nothing towards the south but rough and 
 barren cliffs, sweeping into the purple haze of the lower Ghor. 
 And the rolling sand-hills, which form the surface of the upper 
 plain, stretched far along the bases of the mountains without a 
 mark of cultivation, or the shelter of a tree. Heretofore, we had 
 seen patches of grain, but there were none now visible, and all 
 before us was the bleakness of desolation. 
 
160 FLOATING TREES. 
 
 The banks of the river, too, were less verdant, except immedi- 
 ately upon the margin, and the vegetation was mostly confined 
 to the ghurrah, the tamarisk, and the cane ; the oleander and the 
 asphodel no longer fringed the margin, and the acacia was no- 
 where seen upon the bordering fields. 
 
 Settled with the Emir for the services of his followers and him- 
 self, and dismissed them. 
 
 With a bite and a sop from Mustafa's frying-pan, we were 
 off at an early hour. The river, one hundred and twenty feet 
 wide and seven deep, was flowing at the rate of six knots down 
 a rapid descent. 
 
 We soon passed two large islands, and saw tracks of wild 
 beasts on the shore. 
 
 Many large trees were floating down, and a number were lodged 
 against the banks, some of them recently uprooted, for they had 
 their green leaves upon them, and, as on yesterday, there were 
 some small ones lodged high up in the branches of the overhang- 
 ing trees. The banks were all alluvion, and we began to see the 
 cane in blossom. Altogether, the vegetation was more tropical 
 than heretofore. 
 
 At 9 A. M., quite warm. Many birds were singing about the 
 banks and under cover of the foliage, but we saw few of them ; 
 now and then some pigeons, doves, and cranes, and occasionally 
 a bulbul. Stopped to examine a hill, and collected specimens 
 of semi-indurated clay, coated with efflorescence of lime. The 
 bases of the ridges on each side presented little evidences of 
 vegetation or fertility of soil, notwithstanding their proximity to 
 the river. A few scrubby bushes were scattered here and there, 
 exhibiting the utter sterility of the country through which we 
 were journeying. 
 
 Fields of thistles and briars occasionally varied the scene ; and 
 their sharp projecting thorns bore the motto of the Gael, "Nemo 
 me impune lacessit." 
 
 The hills which bounded the valley were immense masses of 
 siliceous conglomerate, which, with occasional limestone, extended 
 as far as the eye could reach, showing the geological formation 
 
SALINE INCRUSTATION. 161 
 
 of the Ghor from Lake Tiberias to the Dead Sea, where the lime- 
 stone is said to preponderate. 
 
 High up in the faces of these hills were immense caverns and 
 excavations, whether natural or artificial we could not tell. The 
 mouths of these caves were blackened, as if by smoke. They 
 may be the haunts of predatory robbers. At 11.40, stopped for 
 meridian observation, near a huge conglomerate rock. 
 
 At 1.20 P. M., came to the River Jabok (Zerka), flowing in 
 from E. N. E., a small stream trickling down a deep and wide 
 torrent bed. Stopped to examine it. The water was sweet, but 
 the stones upon the bare exposed bank were coated with salt. 
 There was another bed, quite dry, showing that in times of freshet 
 there were two outlets to this tributary, which is incorrectly placed 
 upon the maps. 
 
 There was much of the ghurrah, which seems to delight in a 
 dry soil and a saline atmosphere. The efflorescence on the stones, 
 and on the leaves of the ghurrah, must be a deposition of the 
 atmosphere, when the wind blows from the Dead Sea, about 
 twenty miles distant, in a direct line. 
 
 It was here that Jacob wrestled with the angel, at whose touch 
 the sinew of his thigh shrunk up. In commemoration of that 
 event, the Jews, to this day, carefully exclude that sinew from 
 animals they kill for food. 
 
 This river, too, marks the northern boundary of the land of the 
 Ammonites. 
 
 At 1.30, started again, and soon after saw a wild boar swim- 
 ming across the river. Gave chase, but he escaped us. 
 
 Passed a dry torrent-bed on the right, probably the Wady el 
 Hammam, which separated the lands of the tribe of Manasses 
 from those of the tribe of Ephraim. Still opposite to us was the 
 laud of the tribe of Gad. On that side, about twenty miles dis- 
 tant, was Amman, Rabbath Ammon, the capital of the Ammonites 
 The country of Ammon derived its name from Ben-Ammi, the 
 son of Lot. 
 
 Descending wild and dangerous rapids, and sweeping along 
 the base of a lofty, perpendicular hill, we saw a small stream on 
 14 * 
 
162 AN ARAB PRESENT. 
 
 the left ; stopped to examine it ; found the water clear and sweet ; 
 temperature, 76°. 
 
 Suddenly we heard, and soon after caught glimpses of, an Arab 
 in the bushes on the left ; at the same time a number of Arabs 
 were calling loudly to us from a hill on the right. Stopped for 
 the other boat to close in, and prepared for a skirmish ; at this 
 moment there was a shot from above, and concluding that the 
 other boat had been fired upon, I directed the men to shoot the 
 first objects they saw in the bushes. Fortunately the man we 
 had first seen had now become alarmed and concealed himself; 
 and immediately after, the Fanny Skinner hove in sight, having 
 stopped a moment to fire at a bird. The man in the bushes 
 proved to be a messenger sent by the Arabs on the hill to show 
 us the place of rendezvous for the night. They had been spoken 
 by the caravan as it passed ; and their messenger, instead of 
 selecting a conspicuous place on the right bank, had crossed over, 
 and was floundering through the thicket when we came upon him. 
 
 This Arab was sent by the sheikh of Huteim, a tribe near Jer- 
 icho, and brought from him a present of oranges, and a thin, 
 paste-like cake made in Damascus, of debs (a syrup from grapes), 
 starch, and an aromatic seed, I think the sesame. The oranges 
 were peculiarly grateful after the heat and fatigue of the day. 
 The cake was very good if you were very hungry, and, like the 
 marchioness's lemonade, excellent, if you made-believe very hard. 
 
 The sun went down and night gradually closed in upon us, 
 and the rush of the river seemed more impetuous as the light 
 decreased. We twice passed down rapids, taking care each time 
 to hug the boldest shore. Besides the transition from light to 
 darkness, we had exchanged a heated and stifling for a chilly 
 atmosphere ; and while the men, more fortunate, kept their blood 
 in circulation by pulling gently with the oars, the sitters in the 
 stern-sheets fairly shivered with the cold. 
 
 There had been such a break- down in the bed of the stream 
 since we passed the Jabok, and such evident indications of vol- 
 canic formation, that we became exceedingly anxious. In the 
 obscure gloom, we seemed to be stationary, and the shores to 
 
A SACRED SPOT. 163 
 
 flit by us. With its tumultuous rush the river hurried us on- 
 ward, and we knew not what the next moment would bring 
 forth — whether it would dash us upon a rock or plunge us down 
 a cataract. The friendly Arab, although he knew the fords and 
 best camping-places on the river, in his own district, was, like 
 every one we had met, wholly unacquainted with the stream at all 
 other points. 
 
 Under other circumstances it doubtless would have been pru- 
 dent to lie by until morning ; but we were all wet, had neither 
 food nor change of clothing, and apart from danger of attack in a 
 neighborhood represented as peculiarly bad, sickness would have 
 been the inevitable consequence of a night spent in hunger, cold 
 and watchfulness. 
 
 At 9.30 P. M. we arrived at " El Meshra," the bathing-place 
 of the Christian pilgrims, after having been fifteen hours in the 
 boats. This ford is consecrated by tradition as the place where 
 the Israelites passed over with the ark of the covenant; and where 
 our blessed Saviour was baptized by John. Feeling that it would 
 be desecration to moor the boats at a place so sacred, we passed 
 it, and with some difficulty found a landing below. 
 
 My first act was to bathe in the consecrated stream, thanking 
 God, first, for the precious favour of being permitted to visit such 
 a spot ; and secondly for his protecting care throughout our per- 
 ilous passage. For a long time after, I sat upon the bank, my 
 mind oppressed with awe, as I mused upon the great and won- 
 drous events which had here occurred. Perhaps directly before 
 me, for this is near Jericho, " the waters stood and rose up upon 
 an heap," and the multitudinous host of the Israelites passed 
 over, — and in the bed of the stream, a few yards distant, may be 
 the twelve stones, marking " the place where the feet of the 
 priests which bare the ark of the covenant stood." 
 
 Tradition, sustained by the geographical features of the country, 
 makes this also the scene of the baptism of the Redeemer. The 
 mind of man, trammelled by sin, cannot soar in contemplation 
 of so sublime an event. On that wondrous day, when the Deity 
 veiled in flesh descended the bank, all nature, hushed in awe ? 
 
164 CAPTURE OF A CAMEL. 
 
 looked on, — and the impetuous river, in grateful homage, must 
 have stayed its course, and gently laved the body of its Lord. 
 
 In such a place, it seemed almost desecration to permit the 
 mind to be diverted by the cares which pressed upon it — but it 
 was wrong — for next to faith, surely the highest Christian obliga- 
 tion is the performance of duty. 
 
 Over against this was no doubt the Bethabara of the New 
 Testament, whither our Saviour retired after the Jews sought to 
 take him at the feast of the dedication. The interpretation of 
 Bethabara, is " a place of passage over." Our Lord repaired 
 to Bethabara, where John was baptizing ; and as the ford probably- 
 derived its name from the passage of the Israelites with the ark 
 of the covenant, the inference is not unreasonable that this spot 
 has been doubly hallowed. 
 
 In ten minutes after leaving the camping-ground this morning, 
 the caravan struck upon the plain and crossed the wady Faria, 
 pursuing a S. by W. course. Across the ravine, they saw a young 
 camel browsing among the brown furze and stunted bushes, 
 which, in these plains, serve to protect the scanty vegetation from 
 the intense heat of the sun. This creature had evidently strayed 
 from some fellahin encampment, or had been abandoned by its 
 owners when pursued by the Bedawin, many of whom had been 
 seen the day previous on the eastern side of the Jordan. The 
 camel being quite wild, racked off at full speed on their approach, 
 and the scouts immediately started in pursuit. Its motion in 
 running, although awkward, was exceedingly rapid ; dashing 
 ahead at a long and stretching pace, and outstripping most of 
 the horses in pursuit. Its whole body swayed regularly with its 
 peculiar racking motion, as before remarked, exactly like the 
 yawing of a ship before the wind. Whether it walks or runs, the 
 camel ever throws forward its hind and fore leg on the same side 
 and at the same time, as a horse does in pacing. The fugitive 
 w T as soon caught, and true to its early teaching, knelt down the 
 moment a hand was placed upon its neck. 'Akil, abandoning 
 his mare, mounted the prize, and, without bridle or halter, 
 dashed off at full speed over the plain to increase the number of 
 
GAZELLES. 165 
 
 our beasts of burden. The high peak of " Kurn Surtabeh," 
 " horn of the rhinoceros," bore W. J N. from this point of their 
 progress. 
 
 Crossing Wady el Aujeh, they pursued a southerly course ; the 
 faces of the mountains broken here and there with dark precipices, 
 which gradually assumed a dark brown and reddish hue, with 
 occasional strata resembling red sandstone. 
 
 Beyond Wady el Aujeh, the soil bore a scanty crop of grass, 
 now much parched ; and to the right, where the mountains re- 
 ceded from the plain, there were extensive fields of low, scrubby 
 bushes, powdered with the clay-dust of the soil ; on the left, was 
 a blank desert, with one or two oases, and a waving line of green, 
 where the Jordan betrayed itself, at times, by a glitter like the 
 sheen from bright metal. 
 
 It was now mid-day, and the heat and blinding light of the 
 sun were almost insupportable : they were obliged to stop to rest 
 the wearied caravan, the Arabs making a tent of their abas, sup- 
 ported on spears. 
 
 At 1 P. M., they were again in motion, and, passing through a 
 field of wild mustard, came to an open space, nothing but sand 
 and rocks — a perfect desert — where were traces of a broad-paved 
 road, which they believed to be Roman. At 3 P. M., for the 
 first time, they saw some gazelles, and gave chase to them. At 
 a low whistling noise made by one of the Arabs, the affrighted 
 creatures stopped, and looked earnestly towards them ; but, owing 
 to an incautious movement, they took to flight, and went bound- 
 ing over the hills beyond the possibility of pursuit. 
 
 Crossing Wady el Abyad, they passed through a grove of nubk 
 and wild olive, and came upon a ruined village. Shortly after, 
 they stopped to water in the Wady Na-wa'imeh, with a shallow 
 stream of clear, sweet water. Thence leaving the Quarantania 
 (reputed to be the mountain of our Saviour's fasting and tempta- 
 tion) on the right, and passing east of the fountain healed by 
 Elisha, and of Jericho, they came to Ain el Hadj (Pilgrim's foun- 
 tain), in the plain of Gilgal. Here they were joined by a few 
 Riha (Jericho) Arabs, all having long-barrelled guns, with extra- 
 
166 A GLIMPSE OF THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 ordinary crooked ram's-horn powder-flasks. Of Jericho, the first 
 conquest of the Israelites west of the Jordan, and where Herod 
 the Great died, but a solitary tower remains (if, indeed, it be the 
 true site). How truly has the curse of Joshua respecting it been 
 fulfilled ! Here the wilderness blossomed as the rose. A broad 
 tract was covered with the olive, the nubk, and many shrubs and 
 flowers. From it they had the first view of the Dead Sea, and 
 the grim mountains of Moab to the south-east. There were few 
 evidences of volcanic agency visible, but the calcined and desolate 
 aspect indicated the theatre of a fierce conflagration ; — the cliffs, 
 of the hue of ashes, looking as if they had been riven by thunder- 
 bolts, and scathed by lightning. 
 
 Pursuing a south-easterly course, they passed a broad tract of 
 argillaceous soil, rising in fantastic hills, among which they started 
 a coney from its form. At 5 P. M ., they came upon the banks 
 of the river, excessively wearied, having been eleven hours in the 
 saddle. 
 
 The tents had been pitched by the land-party before we ar- 
 rived, directly on the bank, down which the pilgrims would, early 
 in the morning, descend to the river. Mr. Dale had objected to 
 pitching them on this spot, but our Arabs assured him that the 
 pilgrims would not arrive until late to-morrow. The night was 
 already far advanced, and the men w T ere so weary, that I thought 
 it best to postpone moving the tents until the morning. 
 
 After a slight and hurried meal, we stationed sentries, and 
 threw ourselves, exhausted, upon the lap of mother earth, with 
 the tent our covering, and whatever we could find for pillows. 
 
 During the night there was an alarm. — We sprang from the 
 tents at the report of a gun, and found our Arab scouts on the 
 right hailing some one on the opposite bank ; upon whom, con- 
 trary to all military usage, they had previously fired. It proved 
 to be a fellah, attempting to cross the ford, which was too deep. 
 
 The alarm, although a false one, had the good effect of show- 
 ing that all were upon the alert. At this time, it is said, there 
 are always a great many Arabs prowling about, to cut off pilgrims 
 straying from the strong military escort which accompanies them 
 
AN ARMY OF PILGRIMS. 167 
 
 from Jerusalem, under the command of the Pasha, or an officer 
 of high rank. 
 
 We have, to-day, according to 'Akil, passed through the terri- 
 tory of the Beni Adwans and Beni Sukr's, and into those of the 
 wandering tribes of the lower Ghor. On the opposite side is 
 " the valley over against Beth-peor," where the Israelites dwelt 
 before they crossed the Jordan. 
 
 In the descent of the Jordan, we have, at every encampment 
 but one, determined its astronomical position, and its relative 
 level with the Mediterranean ; and have, throughout, sketched 
 the topography of the river and the valley. The many windings 
 of the river, and its numerous rapids, will account for the differ- 
 ence of level between Lake Tiberias and the Dead Sea. 
 
 Tuesday, April 18. At 3 A. M., we were aroused by' the in- 
 telligence that the pilgrims were coming. Rising in haste, we 
 beheld thousands of torchlights, with a dark mass beneath, mov- 
 ing rapidly over the hills. Striking our tents with precipitation, 
 we hurriedly removed them and all our effects a short distance to 
 the left. We had scarce finished, when they were upon us : — 
 men, women, and children, mounted on camels, horses, mules, 
 and donkeys, rushed impetuously by towards the bank. They 
 presented the appearance of fugitives from a routed army. 
 
 Our Bedawin friends here stood us in good stead; — sticking 
 their tufted spears before our tents, they mounted their steeds and 
 formed a military cordon round us. But for them w r e should 
 have been >un down, and most of our effects trampled upon, 
 scattered and lost. Strange, that we should have been shielded 
 from a Christian throng by wild children of the desert — Muslims 
 in name, but pagans in reality. Nothing but the spears and 
 swarthy faces of the Arabs saved us. 
 
 I had, in the mean time, sent the boats to the opposite shore, a 
 little below the bathing-place, as well to be out of the way as to 
 be in readiness to render assistance, should any of the crowd be 
 swept down by the current, and in danger of drowning. 
 
 While the boats were taking their position, one of the earlier 
 bathers cried out that it was a sacred place ; but when the pur- 
 
168 A HETEROGENEOUS MULTITUDE. 
 
 pose was explained to him, he warmly thanked us. Moored to 
 the opposite shore, with their crews in them, they presented an 
 unusual spectacle. 
 
 The party which had disturbed us was the advanced guard of 
 the great body of the pilgrims. At 5, just at the dawn of day, 
 the last made its appearance, coming over the crest of a high 
 ridge, in one tumultuous and eager throng. 
 
 In all the wild haste of a disorderly rout, Copts and Russians, 
 Poles, Armenians, Greeks and Syrians, from all parts of Asia, 
 from Europe, from Africa, and from far-distant America, on they 
 eame ; men, women and children, of every age and hue, and in 
 every variety of costume ; talking, screaming, shouting, in almost 
 every known language under the sun. Mounted as variously as 
 those who had preceded them, many of the women and children 
 were suspended in baskets or confined in cages ; and, with their 
 eyes strained towards the river, heedless of all intervening obsta- 
 cles, they hurried eagerly forward, and dismounting in haste, and 
 disrobing with precipitation, rushed down the bank and threw 
 themselves into the stream. 
 
 They seemed to be absorbed by one impulsive feeling, and 
 perfectly regardless of the observations of others. Each one 
 plunged himself, or was dipped by another, three times, below 
 the surface, in honour of the Trinity ; and then filled a bottle, or 
 some other utensil, from the river. The bathing-dress of many of 
 the pilgrims was a white gown with a black cross upon it. Most 
 of them, as soon as they dressed, cut branches either of the agnus 
 castus, or the willow; and, dipping them in the consecrated 
 stream, bore them away as memorials of their visit. 
 
 In an hour, they began to disappear ; and in less than three 
 hours, the trodden surface of the lately crowded bank reflected no 
 human shadow. The pageant disappeared as rapidly as it had 
 approached, and left to us once more the silence and the solitude 
 of the wilderness. It was like a dream. An immense crowd of 
 human beings, said-to be 8000, but I thought not so many, had 
 passed and repassed before our tents, and left not a vestige behind 
 them 
 
BATHING IN THE JORDAN. 169 
 
 Every one bathed, a few Franks excepted ; the greater num- 
 ber, in a quiet and reverential manner ; but some, I am sorry to 
 say, displayed an ill-timed levity. 
 
 Besides a party of English, a lady among them, and three 
 French naval officers, we were gladdened by meeting two of our 
 countrymen, who were gratified in their turn, at seeing the stars 
 and stripes floating above the consecrated river, and the boats 
 which bore them ready to rescue, if necessary, a drowning pilgrim. 
 
 We were in the land of Benjamin ; opposite was that of Reu- 
 ben, in the country of the Ammonites, and on the plain of 
 Moab. 
 
 A short distance from us was Jericho, the walls of which fell 
 at the sound of trumpets ; and fourteen miles on the other side 
 was "Heshbon, where Sihon the King of the Amorites dwelt." 
 
 Upon this bank are a few plane trees and many willow and 
 tamarisk, with some of the agnus castus. Within the bank and 
 about the plain are scattered the acacia, the nubk (spina Christi), 
 and the mala insana, or mad apple. On the opposite side are 
 acacia, tamarisk, willow, and a thicket of canes lower down. 
 
 The pilgrims descended to the river where the bank gradually 
 slopes. Above and below it is precipitous. The banks must 
 have been always high in places, and the water deep ; or the 
 axe-head would not have fallen into the water, and Elisha's 
 miracle been unnecessary to recover it. 
 
 Shortly after the departure of the pilgrims, a heavy cloud settled 
 above the western hills, and we had sharp lightning and loud 
 thunder, followed by a refreshing shower of rain. 
 
 We were all much wearied, and in consequence of living upon 
 salted food since we left Tiberias, were much in need of refresh- 
 ment. Disappointed in procuring fresh provisions from Jericho, 
 we determined to proceed at once to the Dead Sea, only a few 
 hours distant. 
 
 Dr. Anderson volunteered to go to Jerusalem to superintend 
 the transportation of the bread I had sent there ; and I gladly 
 accepted his services, instructing him to make a geological recon- 
 noissance of his route. 
 15 
 
170 COURSE OF THE RIVER. 
 
 The great secret of the depression between Lake Tiberias and 
 the Dead Sea, is solved by the tortuous course of the Jordan. In 
 a space of sixty miles of latitude and four or five miles of longi- 
 tude, the Jordan traverses at least 200 miles. The river is in the 
 latter stage of a freshet — a few weeks earlier or later, and passage 
 would have been impracticable. As it is, we have plunged down 
 twenty-seven direatening rapids, besides a great many of lesser 
 magnitude. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FROM PILGRIM'S FORD TO 'AIN EL FESHKHAH. 
 
 At 1.45 P. M., started with the boats, the caravan making a 
 direct line for Ain el Feshkhab, on the north-west shore of the 
 Dead Sea, the appointed place of rendezvous. 
 
 The course of the river was at first S. W. In about half an 
 hour, w r e were hailed from the right bank, when we stopped and 
 took in Sheikh Helu, of the tribe Huteim, and filled the India- 
 rubber water-bags, having passed a small island thickly wooded. 
 Weather close and sultry. At 2.22, started again, course from 
 N. N. E. to S. by W.; the right bank red clay, twenty-five feet 
 high ; left bank low, with high canes and willows. Saw a quan- 
 tity of drift-wood, and passed a camel in the river, washed down 
 by the current in attempting to cross the ford last night. Weather 
 cloudy at intervals, river forty yards wide, twelve feet deep, bot- 
 tom blue mud. The banks alternating high and low — highest at 
 the bends and lowest at the opposite points. 
 
 In five minutes, passed another camel in the river, the poor 
 beast leaning exhausted against the bank, and his owner seated 
 despondingly above him. We could not help him ! 
 
 From 2.42 to 2.54, course from S. to S. E. and back ; many 
 
APPROACH THE DEAD SEA. 171 
 
 pigeons flying about. At this time, there was a nauseous smell 
 on the left or eastern shore — traced it to a small stream running 
 down the Wady Hesbon ; the banks very low, and covered with 
 cane and tamarisk. The river here fifty yards wide, eleven feet 
 deep, muddy bottom, current four knots. Sand and clay banks, 
 with some pebbles on the right; everything indicating the vicinity 
 of the Dead Sea. 
 
 At 3, course S. E. by S., water very smooth, discoloured but 
 sweet. Saw a heron, a bulbul, and a snipe. Noted a fcetid 
 smell, proceeding from a small stream on the right or western 
 shore. Low and sedgy banks, high mountains of the Dead Sea 
 in sight to the southward and westward ; saw many wild ducks. 
 3.12, course south a long stretch, river seventy yards wide, left 
 bank very low, covered with tamarisk, willow, and cane ; right 
 bank fifteen to eighteen feet high, red clay, with weeds and shrubs 
 — the mala insana, spina Christi, and some of the agnus castus — 
 a few tamarisk at the water's edge. 
 
 At 3.13, the mountains to the S. E. over the Dead Sea pre- 
 sented a very rugged, iron-like appearance. Water of the river 
 sweet. 3.15, the left bank low, running out to a flat cape. Right 
 bank low with thick canes, some of them resembling the sugar- 
 cane ; twenty feet back the bank twelve feet high, red clay. 
 3.16, water brackish, but no unpleasant smell; banks red clay 
 and mud, gradually becoming lower and lower ; river eighty yards 
 wide, and fast increasing in breadth, seven feet deep, muddy bot- 
 tom, current three knots. Saw the Dead Sea over the flat, bear- 
 ing south — mountains beyond. The surface of the water became 
 ruffled. 3.22, fresh wind from north-west — one large and two 
 small islands at the mouth of the river ; the islands of mud six to 
 eight feet high, evidently subject to overflow; started a heron 
 and a white gull. 
 
 At 3.25, passed by the extreme western point, where the river 
 is 180 yards wide and three feet deep, and entered upon the Dead 
 Sea ; the water a nauseous compound of bitters and salts. 
 
 The river, where it enters the sea, is inclined towards the 
 eastern shore, very much as is represented on the map of Messrs. 
 
172 ENTER THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 Robinson and Smith, which is the most exact of any we have 
 seen. There is a considerable bay between the river and the 
 mountains of Belka, in Ammon, on the eastern shore of the sea. 
 
 A fresh north-west wind was blowing as we rounded the point. 
 We endeavoured to steer a little to the north of west, to make a 
 true w T est course, and threw the patent log overboard to measure 
 the distance ; but the wind rose so rapidly that the boats could 
 not keep head to wind, and we were obliged to haul the log in. 
 The sea continued to rise with the increasing wind, which gra- 
 dually freshened to a gale, and presented an agitated surface of 
 foaming brine ; the spray, evaporating as it fell, left incrustations 
 of salt upon our clothes, our hands and faces ; and while it con- 
 veyed a prickly sensation wherever it touched the skin, was, above 
 all, exceedingly painful to the eyes. The boats, heavily laden, 
 struggled sluggishly at first ; but when the wind freshened in its 
 fierceness, from the density of the water, it seemed as if their bows 
 were encountering the sledge-hammers of the Titans, instead of 
 the opposing waves of an angry sea. 
 
 At 4.55, the wind blew so fiercely that the boats could make 
 no headway ; not even the Fanny Skinner, which was nearer to 
 the weather shore, and we drifted rapidly to leeward ; threw over 
 some of the fresh water, to lighten the Fanny Mason, which 
 laboured very much, and I began to fear that both boats would 
 founder. 
 
 At 5.40, finding that we were losing every moment, and that, 
 with the lapse of each succeeding one, the danger increased, kept 
 away for the northern shore, in the hope of being yet able to 
 reach it ; our arms, our clothes, and skins coated with a greasy 
 salt ; and our eyes, lips, and nostrils, smarting excessively. How 
 different was the scene before the submerging of the plain, which 
 was " even as the garden of the Lord !" 
 
 At times it seemed as if the Dread Almighty frowned upon our 
 efforts to navigate a sea, the creation of his wrath. There is a 
 tradition among the Arabs that no one can venture upon this sea 
 and live. Repeatedly the fates of Costigan and Molyneux had 
 been cited to deter us. The first one spent a few days, the last 
 
ASPECT OF THE SHORES. 173 
 
 about twenty hours upon it, and returned to the place from 
 whence he had embarked, without landing upon its shores. One 
 was found dying on the shore ; the other expired in November 
 last, immediately after his return, of fever contracted upon its 
 waters. 
 
 But, although the sea had assumed a threatening aspect, and 
 the fretted mountains, sharp and incinerated, loomed terrific on 
 either side, and salt and ashes mingled with its sands, and foetid 
 sulphureous springs trickled down its ravines, we did not despair: 
 awe-struck, but not terrified ; fearing the worst, yet hoping for 
 the best, we prepared to spend a dreary night upon the dreariest 
 w T aste we had ever seen. 
 
 At 5.58, the wind instantaneously abated, and with it the sea 
 as rapidly fell ; the water, from its ponderous quality, settling as 
 soon as the agitating cause had ceased to act. Within twenty 
 minutes from the time we bore away from a sea which threatened 
 to engulf us, we were pulling at a rapid rate, over a placid sheet 
 of water, that scarcely rippled beneath us ; and a rain-cloud, 
 which had enveloped the sterile mountains of the Arabian shore, 
 lifted up, and left their rugged outlines basking in the light of the 
 setting sun. A flock of gulls flew over, while we were passing a 
 small island of mud, a pistol-shot distant from the northern shore, 
 and half a mile west of the river's mouth. Soon after, a light 
 wind sprung up from S. E., and huge clouds drifted over, their 
 western edges gorgeous with light, while the great masses were 
 dark and threatening. The sun went down, leaving beautiful 
 islands of rose-coloured clouds over the coast of Judea ; but 
 above the yet more sterile mountains of Moab, all was gloomy 
 and obscure. 
 
 The northern shore is an extensive mud-flat, with a sandy plain 
 beyond, and is the very type of desolation ; branches and trunks 
 of trees lay scattered in every direction ; some charred and black- 
 ened as by fire ; others white with an incrustation of salt. These 
 were collected at high-water mark, designating the line which the 
 water had reached prior to our arrival. On the deep sands of 
 this shore was laid the scene of the combat between the knight 
 15* 
 
174 NIGHT UPON THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 of the leopard, and Ilderim the Saracen. The north-western 
 shore is an unmixed bed of gravel, coming in a gradual slope 
 from the mountains to the sea. The eastern coast is a rugged 
 line of mountains, bare of all vegetation, — a continuation of the 
 Hauran range, coming from the north, and extending south beyond 
 the scope of vision, throwing out three marked and seemingly 
 equidistant promontories from its south-eastern extremity. 
 
 We were, for some time, apprehensive of missing the place of 
 rendezvous ; for the Sheikh of Huteim, never having been afloat 
 before, and scarce recovered from his fright during the gale, was 
 bewildered in his mind, and perfectly useless as a guide. The 
 moon had not risen ; and in the starlight, obscured by the shadow 
 of the mountains, we pulled along the shore in some anxiety. 
 At one moment we saw the gleam of a fire upon the beach, to 
 the southward ; and firing a gun, made for it with all expedition. 
 In a short time it disappeared ; and while resting on the oars, 
 waiting for some signal to direct us, there were the flashes and 
 reports of guns and sounds of voices upon the cliffs, followed by 
 other flashes and reports far back upon the shore which we had 
 passed. Divided between apprehensions of an attack upon our 
 friends and a stratagem for ourselves, we were uncertain where to 
 land. Determined, however, to ascertain, we closed in with the 
 shore, and pulled along the beach, sounding as we proceeded. 
 
 A little before 8 P. M., we came up with our friends, who had 
 stopped at Ain el Feshkhah, fountain of the stride. 
 
 The shouts and signals we had heard were from the scouts 
 and caravan, which had been separated from each other, making 
 mutual signals of recognition ; they had likewise responded to 
 ours, which, coining from two points some distance apart, for a 
 time disconcerted us. It was a wild scene upon an unknown 
 and desolate coast : the mysterious sea, the shadowy mountains, 
 the human voices among the cliffs, the vivid flashes and the loud 
 reports reverberating along the shore. 
 
 Unable to land near the fountain, we were compelled to haul 
 the boats upon the beach, about a mile below ; and, placing some 
 Arabs to guard them, took the men to the camp, pitched in a 
 
ANCIENT CAVERNS. 
 
 175 
 
 cane-brake, beside a brackish spring, where, from necessity, we 
 made a frugal supper ; and then, wet and weary, threw ourselves 
 upon a bed of dust, beside a foetid marsh; — the dark fretted 
 mountains behind — the sea, like a huge cauldron, before us — its 
 surface shrouded in a lead-coloured mist. 
 
 Towards midnight, while the moon was rising above the eastern 
 mountains, and the shadows of the clouds were reflected wild and 
 fantastically upon the surface of the sombre sea ; and everything, 
 the mountains, the sea, the clouds, seemed spectre-like and un- 
 natural, the sound of the convent-bell of Mar Saba struck grate- 
 fully upon the ear ; for it was the Christian call to prayer, and 
 told of human wants and human sympathies to the wayfarers on 
 the borders of the Sea of Death. 
 
 The shore party stated that, after leaving the green banks of 
 the Jordan, they passed over a sandy tract of damp ravines, where 
 it was difficult for the camels to march without slipping. Ascend- 
 ing a slight elevation, they traversed a plain encrusted with salt, 
 and sparsely covered with sour and saline bushes, some dead and 
 withered, and snapping at the slightest touch given them in pass- 
 ing. They noticed many cavernous excavations in the hill-sides, 
 —the dwelling places of the Israelites, of early Christians, and of 
 hermits during the time of the Crusades. 1 They at length reached 
 a sloping, dark-brown sand, forming the beach of the Dead Sea, 
 and followed it to El Feshkhah. Our Arabs feared wild beasts, 
 but there seemed nothing for one to live on, in these untenanted 
 solitudes. The frogs alone bore vocal testimony of their existence. 
 
 In descending the Ghor, Mr. Dale sketched the topography of 
 the country, and took compass bearings as he proceeded. The 
 route of the caravan was on the bank of the upper terrace, on the 
 west side, every day, except one, when it travelled on the eastern 
 side. That elevated plain was at first covered with fields of 
 grain, but became more barren as they journeyed south. The 
 terrace was strongly marked, particularly in the southern portion, 
 
 1 « And because of the Midianites, the children of Israel made them the 
 dens which are in the mountains, and caves, and strongholds." — Judges, 
 xi. 2. 
 
176 FOUNTAIN OF THE STRIDE. 
 
 where there was a continuous range of perpendicular cliffs of 
 limestone and conglomerate. This terrace averaged about 500 
 feet above the flat of the Jordan, the latter mostly covered with 
 trees and grass. They were each day compelled to descend to 
 the lower plain to meet the boats. 
 
 Wednesday, April 19. I was first recalled to consciousness this 
 morning by rays of light, the pencilled messengers of the early 
 dawn, shooting above the dark and fretted mountains which form 
 the eastern boundary of the sea. This day I had assigned to rest 
 and preparation for future work, and intended to let all hands 
 sleep late, after the great fatigue of yesterday ; but, soon after day- 
 break, we were startled with the intelligence that the boats w T ere 
 nearly filled w T ith water. The w r ind had risen towards morning, 
 and a heavy sea was tumbling in. We hastened to the beach to 
 secure the boats, and dry our effects. With all our discomfort, 
 we had slept better than usual, having been undisturbed by fleas. 
 The wind was fresh from the south, and the brawling sound of 
 the breakers was reverberated from the perpendicular face of the 
 mountains. We were encamped just above the spring, in a 
 clearing made in the cane-brake, under a cliff upwards of a thou- 
 sand feet high — old crumbling limestone and conglomerate of a 
 dull ochre colour. 
 
 The fountain is a shallow and clear stream of water, at the 
 temperature of 84°, which flows from a cane-brake, near the base 
 of the mountain. It is soft yet brackish, and there is no deposit 
 of siliceous or cretaceous matter, but it has a strong smell of sul- 
 phur. We had no means of analyzing it. A short distance from 
 its source, it spreads over a considerable space, and its diagonal 
 course to the sea is marked by a more vivid line of vegetation 
 than that which surrounds it. Between the cane-brake and the 
 sea is the beach covered with minute fragments of flint. In the 
 water of the sea, near the shore, are standing many dead trees, 
 about two inches in diameter. We could neither find nor hear 
 of the ruins mentioned by Dr. Robinson, and looked in vain for 
 sulphur. The pebbles of bituminous limestone of which he 
 speaks, are in great abundance. 
 
BIRDS UPON THE SHORE. 177 
 
 Our Arabs finding it impossible to sustain their horses on the 
 salt and acrid vegetation of this place, and Ain Jidy being repre- 
 sented as no better, I discharged them and the camel- drivers, and 
 applied to the Pasha at Jerusalem for a few soldiers to guard the 
 depot I intended forming at Ain Jidy, while we should be explor- 
 ing the sea and its shores. 
 
 'Akil and his followers were to leave us here, but Sherif, with 
 his servant, would remain. Sent Sherif to Jerusalem, to assist in 
 superintending the transportation of stores, and to make arrange- 
 ments for supplies of provisions from Hebron. Sent with him 
 everything we could dispense with — saddles, bridles, holsters, 
 and all but a few articles of clothing. 
 
 At 1 P. M., made an excursion along the base of the moun- 
 tain, towards Ras es Feshkhah (cape of the stride), and gathered 
 some specimens of conglomerate and some fresh-water shells in 
 the bed of the stream. We were struck with the almost total 
 absence of round stones and pebbles upon the beach — the shore 
 is covered with small angular fragments of flint. Started two 
 partridges of a beautiful stone-colour, so much like the rocks, that 
 they could only be distinguished when in motion. Heard the 
 notes of a solitary bird in the cane-brake, which we could not 
 identify. The statement that nothing can live upon the shores of 
 the sea, is, therefore, disproved. The home and the usual haunt 
 of the partridge may be among the cliffs above, but the smaller 
 bird we heard must have its nest in the thicket. 
 
 But the scene was one of unmixed desolation. The air, tainted 
 with the sulphuretted hydrogen of the stream, gave a tawny hue 
 even to the foliage of the cane, which is elsewhere of so light a 
 green. Except the cane-brakes, clustering along the marshy 
 stream which disfigured, w T hile it sustained them, there was no 
 vegetation whatever; barren mountains, fragments of rocks, 
 blackened by sulphureous deposit, and an unnatural sea, with 
 low, dead trees upon its margin, all within the scope of vision, 
 bore a sad and sombre aspect. We had never before beheld 
 such desolate hills, such calcined barrenness. The most arid 
 desert has its touch of genial nature : 
 
178 
 
 THE WORD OF OUR ARAB. 
 
 " But here, above, around, below, 
 In mountain or in glen, 
 
 Nor tree, nor plant, nor shrub, nor flower, 
 
 Nor aught of vegetative power, 
 The wearied eye may ken ; 
 
 But all its rocks at random thrown, 
 
 Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone." 
 There was an unpleasant sulphureous smell in the air, which we 
 attributed to the impregnated waters of the fountain and marsh. 
 'Akil, to whom we were all much attached, came to see us 
 prior to his departure. To our surprise and great delight, we 
 learned, in the course of conversation, that he was well acquainted 
 and on friendly terms with some of the tribes on the eastern shore. 
 I therefore prevailed upon him to proceed there by land ; apprise 
 the tribes of our coming, and make arrangements to supply us with 
 provisions. In ten days he was to be in Kerak, and have a look- 
 out for us stationed upon the eastern shore near the peninsula. It 
 was a most gratifying arrangement, for we might now hope to 
 avoid difficulty where it had been most anticipated, and to visit 
 the country of Moab, so little known to the world. 
 
 Sometime after the agreement was made, 'Akil returned and 
 expressed a wish to be released. I ascertained that some of his 
 timid followers had been dissuading him, and held him to his 
 obligation. He is a high-toned savage. At our former meeting 
 I advanced him money for his expenses and the purchase of pro- 
 visions, for which he refused to give a receipt or append his seal 
 to the contract. An Arab never subscribes his name, even when 
 he can write. I had, therefore, nothing but his word to rely upon, 
 which I well knew he would never break. " The bar of iron 
 may be broken, but the word of an honest man never," and there 
 is as much honour beneath the yellow skin of this untutored Arab, 
 as ever swelled the breast of the chivalrous Cosur de Lion. He 
 never dreamed of falsehood. 
 
 During the early part of the day the weather was pleasant, with 
 passing clouds ; but when unobscured the sun was warm. To- 
 wards the afternoon the wind subsided, and the calm sea, when 
 the sun shone upon it, verified the resemblance which it has been 
 
AN ARAB MESS. 179 
 
 said to bear to molten lead. In the forenoon it had looked as 
 yesterday, like a sheet of foam. 
 
 The night was clear, a thin mist hung over the southern shore, 
 and the moon was nearly at the full. Near us, when all was still, 
 the sea had the exact hue of absinthe, or that peculiar blue of 
 the grotto of "Azzura," described in the " Improvisators " 
 Until 2 A. M. the night was serene and lovely. Although the 
 earth was fine and penetrating as ashes, and the miasma from 
 the marsh anything but agreeable, there were no fleas, and the 
 bites which had so smarted from the spray yesterday, are now 
 healing up. 
 
 To-night our Bedawin had a farewell feast, characteristic alike 
 of their habitual waste and want of cleanliness. A huge kettle, 
 partly filled with water, was laid on a fire made of wood gathered 
 on the beach and strongly impregnated with salt ; when the water 
 boiled, a quantity of flour was thrown in and stirred with a branch 
 of drift-wood, seven feet long, and nine inches in circumference. 
 When the mixture was about the consistence of paste, the vessel 
 was taken from the fire and a skin of rancid butter, about six 
 pounds, in a fluid state, was poured in ; the mixture was again 
 stirred, and the Bedawin seated round it scooped out the dirty, 
 greasy compound, with the hollow of their hands — 'Akll not the 
 least voracious among them. He is a genuine barbarian, and 
 never sleeps even beneath the frail covering of a tent. In his 
 green aba, which he has constantly worn since he joined us, he 
 is ever to be found at night, slumbering, not sleeping, near the 
 watch-fire — his yataghan by his side — his heavy mounted, wide- 
 mouthed pistols beneath his head. Before retiring, the Arabs took 
 an impressive leave of us ; for it was evident that they anticipated 
 encountering some peril in their route along the eastern shore. 
 
 The Arab bard sang nearly the whole night. Stopping a little 
 after midnight, he commenced again in less than an hour, and at 
 2 A. M. was giving forth his nasal notes and his twanging sounds 
 in most provoking monotony ; the discordant croaking of the frog 
 is music in comparison. An occasional scream or yell would 
 have been absolute relief. 
 
180 ARABS AT PRAYER. 
 
 At midnight, again heard the bell of the convent of Mar Saba. 
 It was a solace to know that, in a place wild and solitary in itself, 
 yet not remote from us, there were fellow Christians raising their 
 voices in supplication to the Great and Good Being, before whom, 
 in different forms, but with undivided faith, w T e bow ourselves in 
 worship. 
 
 Thursday, April 20. Awakened very early by one of the Arabs, 
 more pious or more hypocritical than the rest, constituting him- 
 self a Mueddin, 1 and calling the rest to prayer. But the summons 
 was obeyed by very few. An Arab, when he prays, throws his 
 mat anywhere, generally, in obedience to the injunctions of the 
 Koran, in the most conspicuous place. He puts off his shoes ; 
 stands upright ; leans forward until his hands rest upon his knees ; 
 bends yet farther in prostration, and touches the earth with his 
 forehead ; he then rises erect, recites a sentence from the Koran, 
 and goes through with similar genuflections and prostrations. In 
 the intervals of the prostrations, he sits back, his knees to the 
 ground, and his feet under him, and recites long passages from 
 the Koran. Sometimes they are abstracted, but not always ; we 
 have seen them, in the intervals between the prostrations, comb 
 their beards and address others in conversation, and afterwards, 
 with great gravity, .renew their orisons. 
 
 The most extraordinary thing is, that some of the Turkish sol- 
 diers we have seen, who were seemingly pious and really fanati- 
 cal, did not understand one word of the Arabic passages of the 
 Koran they recited with so much apparent devotion. 
 
 Except those who accompanied us from Acre, we have not seen 
 a single Muslim with beads : — there, as well as at Beirut, Smyrna 
 and Constantinople, every one we met, from the Pasha down, had 
 them in his hand, apparently as playthings only. 
 
 The morning was pleasant ; a light breeze from the southward ; 
 temperature of the air, 82°. After taking double altitudes, sent 
 Mr. Dale and Mr. Aulick in the boats to sound diagonally and 
 directly across to the eastern shore. They started at 10.30 ; the 
 
 1 In Turkish, Muezzin. 
 
MORE BIRDS. 181 
 
 wind had died away ; the sea was as smooth as a mirror towards 
 either shore, but slightly ruffled in the middle, where there seemed 
 to be a current setting to the southward. Thermometer, 89° in 
 the tent, our only shelter, for the sun shone fiercely into every 
 crevice of the mountain behind us. Employed in making ar- 
 rangements for the removal of the camp farther south to-morrow. 
 
 P. M. A short distance from the camp, saw a large brown or 
 stone-coloured hare, and started a partridge ; heard another in 
 the cliffs above, and a small bird twittering in the cane-brake be- 
 neath me. We discovered that these shores can furnish food for 
 beasts of prey. Found some of the sea-side brache, supposed 
 to be alluded to in Job, and translated mallows in the English 
 version. Also, the Sida Asiatica. 
 
 As the day declined, the wind sprang up and blew freshly from 
 the north, and I began to feel apprehensive for the boats. To- 
 wards sunset, walked along the base of the mountains to the 
 southward to look for, but could see nothing of them. Started a 
 snipe, and saw, but could not catch, a beautiful butterfly, che- 
 quered white and brown. To-day a duck was seen upon the 
 water about a mile from the shore; — his home, doubtless, among 
 the sedges of the brackish stream. 
 
 Soon after sunset, some Arabs of the tribe Rashayideh came into 
 camp, and proffered their services as guides along the western 
 coast, and guards to our effects while absent in the boats. They 
 were the most meagre, forlorn, and ragged creatures I had ever 
 seen. The habiliments of Falstaff's recruits would have been a 
 court costume compared to the attire of these attenuated wretches, 
 whose swarthy skins, in all directions, peered forth through the 
 filthy rags, which hung in shreds and patches, rather betraying 
 than concealing their nudity. 
 
 Some of them would have answered as guides ; but it would 
 not do to employ them in any other capacity. Their abject 
 poverty would tempt them to steal, and their physical weakness 
 prevent them, even if they were courageous, from defending our 
 property. Since the battle of Cressy, history does not tell of lean 
 and hungry men having ever proved valiant. 
 16 
 
182 SOUNDINGS OF THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 As night closed in, we lighted fires along the beach and around 
 the camp as guiding signals to the boats. 
 
 At 8 P. M.*, went down to the beach and looked long and 
 anxiously but could see nothing of them, although a dark object 
 could have been discerned at a great distance, for the surface of 
 the sea was one wide sheet of foam, and the waves, as they 
 broke upon the shore, threw a sepulchral light upon the dead 
 bushes and scattered fragments of rock. Returned to the camp, 
 and placed every one on guard, for all our men but one being 
 absent in the boats, our weakness, if coupled with want of vigil- 
 ance, might invite an attack from the strange Arabs, who, we 
 knew, were upon the cliffs above. 
 
 At a very late hour, the boats returned. They had been re- 
 tarded by the fresh wind, and corresponding heavy swell of the 
 sea. The distance in a straight line from this to the Arabian 
 shore measured seven nautical, or nearly eight statute miles. The 
 soundings directly across from this place gave 116 fathoms, or 
 696 feet, as the greatest depth — ninety fathoms, 540 feet, within 
 a fourth of a mile from the Arabian shore. Mr. Aulick reported 
 a volcanic formation on the east shore, and brought specimens of 
 lava. Another line of soundings running diagonally across to 
 the S. E. Mr. Dale reported a level plain at the bottom of the 
 sea, extending nearly to each shore, with an average depth of 170 
 fathoms, 1020 feet, all across. The bottom, blue mud and sand, 
 and a number of rectangular crystals of salt, some of them per- 
 fect cubes. One cast brought up crystals only. Laid them by 
 for careful preservation. 
 
 The diagonal line of soundings was run from this place to a 
 black chasm in the opposite mountains. The soundings deepened 
 gradually to twenty-eight fathoms a short distance from the shore ; 
 the next cast was 137, and the third 170 fathoms, and the lead 
 brought up, as mentioned, clear cubical crystals of salt. The 
 casts were taken about every half mile, and the deep soundings 
 were carried close to the Arabian shore. It was a tedious opera- 
 tion ; the sun shone with midsummer fierceness, and the water, 
 greasy to the touch, made the men's hands smart and burn severely. 
 
GROUP OF RAGGED ARABS. 183 
 
 In the chasm they found a sweet and thermal stream, coming 
 from above and emptying into the sea. It is, doubtless, the 
 " Zerka Main," the outlet of the hot springs of Callirohoe. We 
 trust to give it a thorough examination. 
 
 By dark the sea had rolled up dangerously, and the boats took 
 in much water, the crests of the waves curling over their sides. 
 It was a dreadful pull for the men, and when they arrived, their 
 clothes were stiffened with incrustation. 
 
 The Rashayideh were grouped in a circle a short distance from 
 our tents. In their ragged brown abas, lying motionless, and 
 apparently in profound slumber, they looked by moonlight like 
 so many fragments of rock, and reminded one of the grey geese 
 around the hut of Cannie Elshie, the recluse of Mucklestane 
 Muir. They were not all asleep, however, for when I approached, 
 one instantly arose and greeted me. Retired to rest at 1 A. M., 
 the sea brawling and breaking upon the shore. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 FROM AIN EL FESKHAH TO AIN JIDY (ENGADDl). 
 
 Friday, April 21. Allowed all hands to sleep late this morn- 
 ino-, in consequence of the great fatigue of yesterday. The sun 
 rose at 5.29 ; a light wind from the westward. 
 
 Prepared for moving to the southward. The sea was smooth 
 and weather clear, and after sunrise it become quite warm. Lofty 
 arid mountains on both sides ; a low flat shore to the northward 
 and to the «outhward ; the south-eastern and the south-western 
 shores converging, with only water visible between them. In 
 that direction, a light veil of mist was drawn above the sea. 
 
 At 11, broke up camp, and commenced moving every thing to 
 the boats, excepting a load for the only remaining camel, to be 
 conveyed along the shore. The Rashayideh were very active in 
 
184 
 
 THE BROOK KIDRON. 
 
 the labour of transportation from the camp to the boats. Their 
 astonishing brevity of shirt, and lack of all other covering, except a 
 dirty and faded koofeeyeh, rendered them peculiarly interesting 
 to the anatomist. Several of them wore sandals, a rude invention 
 to protect the feet. It is a thick piece of hide, confined by a 
 thong, passing under the sole, at the hollow of the foot, around 
 the heel, and between the great toe, and the one which adjoins it. 
 
 Our baggage seemed too heavy for the boats, but it was neces- 
 sary to make the attempt to get away. Our Jordan water was 
 nearly expended, and that of the fountain was not only unpalat- 
 able, but I feared unwholesome also. If it came on to blow, we 
 would have to beach the boats to save them. 
 
 At 11.42, started ; a light breeze from the southward and west- 
 ward; the sea slightly ruffled. Steered S. J E., along the shore 
 by Ras el Feshkhah. The ras (cape) about 200 yards distant from 
 the shore ; between it and our late camping-place is a low, narrow 
 plain, skirted with cane. The precipitous limestone mountain 
 towering a thousand feet above it. 
 
 In half an hour, passed Wady Mahras, or Ravine of the Guard. 
 It was dry, with a solitary ghurrah-tree at its mouth, larger than 
 any we had seen upon these shores. It was about the size of a 
 half-grown apple-tree. 
 
 Half a mile beyond is the Wady en Nar (Ravine of Fire), which 
 is the bed of the brook Kidron. The head of that ravine is the 
 valley of Jehoshaphat, under the eastern wall of Jerusalem. Mid- 
 way down the ravine, the convent of Mar Saba is situated. Be- 
 tween the outlets of the two ravines of Mahras and En Nar, the 
 debris of the mountains has formed a plain, or delta, sloping to 
 the south-east, and rounding again to the southward. 
 
 Soon after, stopped to examine where the Kidron empties into 
 the sea, in the rainy season. The bed, much worn and filled 
 with confused fragments of rock, was perfectly dry. It is a deep 
 gorge, narrow at the base, and yawning wide at the summit, 
 which was 1200 feet above us. 
 
 The peak of Mukulla, immediately north of this ravine, was the 
 loftiest of the range we had thus far seen on the Judean shore ; 
 
GENERAL ASPECT. 185 
 
 and presented, even more than the rest, the appearance of hav- 
 ing been scathed by fire. Its summit is less sharp and more 
 rounded, and the rapid disintegration of its face towards the sea 
 has formed a sloping hill of half its height, resembling fine dust 
 and ashes. 
 
 The formation of this mountain, like the rest of the range to the 
 north, consists of horizontal strata of limestone ; the exterior, of 
 an incinerated brown, is so regular in its stratification as to pre- 
 sent a scarped and fortified aspect. 
 
 The mountain-sides and summits, and the shores of this sea, 
 thus far, were almost entirely devoid of vegetation ; and the soli- 
 tary tree, of which I have spoken, alone refreshed the eye, while 
 all else within the scope of vision was dreary and utter desolation. 
 The curse of God is surely upon this unhallowed sea! 
 
 Picked up fresh-water shells in the torrent-bed, and fragments 
 of flesh-coloured flint upon the sea shore, and gathered some 
 specimens of rock. 
 
 Starting again, we had scarce any wind ; weather warm but not 
 oppressive ; the sky somewhat clouded with cumuli ; the course, 
 S. \ W. The curve of the shore forms a bay between the delta 
 we have just left, and a point bearing S. S. E. 
 
 At 3 P. M., abreast of the high cliff Hathurah, and the Wady 
 Siideir, immediately north of it. A little beyond was a large 
 cave, two-thirds up the cliff. The delta, which had narrowed 
 since leaving the bed of the Kidron, began to spread out again 
 from the mountains towards the sea. 
 
 We next came to Wady Ghuweir, which presented a singular 
 appearance on its summits ; the northern one resembling a watch- 
 tower, and the southern one a castle. 
 
 3.30, low land visible to the southward; a fire on the eastern 
 shore. The face and sides of this ravine are cut into terraces by 
 the action of the winter rains. 
 
 Narrow strips of canes and tamarisks immediately at the foot 
 of the cliff, — a luxuriant line of green ; except the solitary ghurrah- 
 tree, the only thing we have seen to cheer the eye since leaving 
 the tawny cane-brake of Ain el Feshkhah. A beach of coarse, 
 
186 DESOLATE SCENE. 
 
 dark gravel below, and barren, brown mountains above, through- 
 out the whole intervening space. 
 
 Half a mile from the shore, threw over the drag in ten fathoms 
 water. It brought up nothing but mud. 
 
 4.30, a perfect calm. The clouds hung motionless in the still 
 air, and their shadows chequered the rugged surface of the moun- 
 tains of Arabia. It was the grandeur of desolation ; no being 
 seen — all sound unheard — we were in the midst of a profound and 
 awful solitude. 
 
 4.41, approaching Ain Turabeh. On a point, stretching out 
 into the sea, are a few ghurrah-trees and some tamarisk-bushes, 
 and tufts of cane and grass, which alone relieved the dreary 
 scene; all besides are brown, incinerated hills; masses of con- 
 glomerate ; banks of sand and dust, impalpable as ashes, and 
 innumerable boulders, bleached by long exposure to the sun. 
 
 Rounded the point, which was low and gravelly, with some 
 drift-wood upon it ; rowed by a small but luxuriant cane-brake, 
 and camped a short distance from the fountain. 
 
 The clear, shelving beach, the numerous tamarisk and ghur- 
 rah-trees, and the deep green of the luxuriant cane, rendered this, 
 by contrast, a delightful spot. 
 
 The indentation of the coast formed here a perfect little bay ; 
 and the water of the fountain, although warm, is pure and sweet. 
 Its temperature, 75°. It rather trickles than gushes from the 
 north side of the bay, within ten paces of the sea. 
 
 We here found a pistachia 1 in full bloom, but its pretty white 
 and pink flowers yielded no fragrance. In the stream of the little 
 fountain were several lily-stalks, and the sand was discoloured 
 with a sulphureous deposit, as at Ain el Feshkhah. The Arabs 
 formed a number of pools around by scooping out the sand and 
 gravel with their hands. 
 
 An Arab brought us some dhom apples, the fruit of the nubk, 
 
 1 Pistachia Terebinthus; the terebinth of Scripture. It is here a dwarf, 
 but is said to grow larger on the plains. It was under the shade of a 
 terebinth-tree that Abraham pitched his tent at Mamre. The Arabs 
 call it « butm." 
 
VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 187 
 
 or spina Christi. They were much withered, and presented the 
 appearance of a small, dried crab-apple. It had a stone like the 
 cherry ; but the stone was larger, and there was less fruit on it in 
 proportion to its size. It was sub-acid, and to us quite palatable ; 
 and, reclined upon the shelving beach of pebbles, we took off the 
 edge of appetite while our cook was preparing the second and 
 last meal of the day. 
 
 The plants we found here, besides the lily, were the yellow 
 henbane, with narcotic properties; the nightshade (anit et dil), 
 or wolf-grape, supposed, by Hasselquist, to be the wild grape 
 alluded to in Isaiah ; the lamb's quarter, used in the manufacture 
 of barilla; and a species of kale (salicornea Europea). This 
 plant is found wherever salt water or saline formations occur. It 
 was here upon the shore of the Dead Sea, and Fremont saw it 
 on the borders of the Great Salt Lake, west of the Mississippi. 
 Besides the single pistachia tree, there were a great many tama- 
 risks, now also in blossom ; the flowers small and of a dull white 
 colour : the wood of the tree makes excellent charcoal, and, in 
 the season, the branches bear galls almost as acrid as the oak. 
 
 The pebbles on the beach, to-day, were agglutinated with salt, 
 and the stones in the torrent-beds were coated with saline incrus- 
 tations. 
 
 One of the party shot at a duck, a short distance from the shore ; 
 — dark-grey body, and black head and wings. The bird, when 
 fired at, flew but a short distance out to sea, where it alighted 
 and again directed its course towards the shore. We therefore 
 inferred that its haunt was among the sedges of the little fountain. 
 
 It was a strange scene, to-night. The tents among the tama- 
 risks, the Arab watch-fires, the dark mountains in the rear, the 
 planets and the stars above them, and the boats drawn up on the 
 shore. The night was serene and beautiful ; the moon, now 
 beginning to wane, shone on a placid sea, upon which there was 
 not the slightest ripple. The profound stillness was undisturbed 
 by the faintest sound, except the tread of our sentinels. 
 
 Early in the morning it was quite cool. At 6 A. M., tempera- 
 ture of the air 70° and very pleasant. Took our breakfast beneath 
 
1S8 HILLS AND RAVENS. 
 
 some tamarisk trees in bloom, the grateful shade enhanced by 
 their delicious fragrance. An Arab brought some specimens of 
 sulphur picked up on the banks of the Jordan near the sea, most 
 probably washed down from the mountains by the river torrents. 
 Some flowers were gathered and placed in our herbarium for pre- 
 servation. Our arms, instruments, and everything metallic, were 
 bronzed by the saline atmosphere. 
 
 Started early for Ain Jidy (fountain of the kid) ; wind light 
 from S. E., with a short troubled swell — the heavily laden boats 
 rolled unmercifully. A few clouds in the north-east; cumulus 
 stratus; steered S. by E. to clear the point to the southward. 
 
 At 8.20, abreast of Wady Ta'amirah, at the head of which is 
 Bethlehem. Thus on one side is the sea, the record of God's 
 wrath ; on the other, the birth-place of the Redeemer of the world. 
 
 8.30, a thin, haze-like, heated vapour over the southern sea — 
 appearance of an island between the two shores. 9.50, passed 
 through a line of foam, curved to the north, and coloured brown 
 by floating patches of what seemed to be the dust of rotten wood. 
 
 At 10.25, hailed by an Arab from the shore, but could not 
 understand him. At 11, under a high peak of a mountain, the 
 escarpment furrowed with innumerable dry water-courses. The 
 marks upon the shore indicated that the sea had fallen seven feet 
 this season. 
 
 Soon after noon, reached Wady Sudeir, below Ain Jidy (En- 
 gaddi). Walked up the dry torrent bed, and finding no suitable 
 place for encampment, directed the boats to be taken half a mile 
 farther south, where they were hauled up, and our tents pitched 
 near them, immediately in a line with, but some distance from 
 where the fountain stream of Ain Jidy descends the mountain 
 side and is lost in the plain ; its course marked by a narrow strip 
 of luxuriant green. The Wady Sudier had water in it some dis- 
 tance up, but too remote for our purposes. 
 
 Instead of the fine grassy plain, which, from Dr. Robinson's 
 description, we had anticipated, we found here a broad sloping 
 delta at the mouth of dry gorges in the mountains. The surface 
 of this plain is dust covered with coarse pebbles and minute 
 
THE LOTUS TREE. 189 
 
 fragments of stone, mostly flint, with here and there a nubk and 
 some osher trees. The last were in blossom, but had some of the 
 fruit of' last year, dry and fragile, hanging upon them, and we 
 collected some for preservation. The blossom is a delicate pur- 
 ple, small, bell-shaped, and growing in large clusters. The leaf 
 is oblong, about four inches long by three wide, thick, smooth, 
 and of a dark green, and except that it is smaller, much resem- 
 bling the caoutchouc. The branches are tortuous like the locust, 
 and the light brown bark has longitudinal ash-coloured ridges 
 upon it, like the sassafras at home. The nubk or lotus tree, the 
 spina Christi of Hasselquist, called by the Arabs the dhom tree, 
 has small dark-green, oval-shaped, ivy-like leaves. Clustering 
 thick and irregularly upon the crooked branches, are sharp thorns, 
 half an inch in length. The smaller branches are very pliant, 
 which, in connexion with the ivy-like appearance of the leaves, 
 sustains the legend that of them was made the mock crown of the 
 Redeemer. Its fruit, resembling a withered crab-apple, is sub- 
 acid, and of a pleasant flavour. 
 
 There were tamarisk trees and much cane in the bed of the 
 ravine, besides many pink oleanders. About the plain we found 
 the rock rose, from one of the species of which the gum ladanum 
 is procured; also the common pink; the Aleppo senna, w T hich is 
 used in medicine ; the common mallow, and the scentless yellow 
 mignonette. 
 
 On the upper part of the plain were terraces, which bore marks 
 of former cultivation, perhaps cucumber-beds, such as seen by Dr. 
 Robinson and Mr. Smith. They were owned by the Ta'amirah, 
 and had been destroyed a short time before by a tribe of hostile 
 Arabs. We found a few small prickly cucumbers, or gerkins, in 
 detached places. There were two patches of barley standing, 
 which were scarce above the ground, perhaps, at the time of the 
 hostile incursion. Yet, although it could have been but a few 
 weeks since, the grain was nearly ready for the harvest. The whole 
 aspect of the country, these few trees and patches of vegetation ex- 
 cepted, was one incinerated brown. The mountain, with caverns 
 in its face, towered fifteen hundred feet above us ; and one-third 
 
190 ARAB REPUGNANCE TO PORK. 
 
 up was the fountain, in a grove of spina Christi. It was a spot 
 familiar to the imaginations of all, — the " Diamond of the Desert," 
 in the tales of the crusaders. 
 
 Examined the boats for repairs. Found them very much bat- 
 tered, and their keels, stems, and stern-posts, fractured. Com- 
 menced a series of barometrical and thermometrical observations, 
 and surveyed the ground for a base-line. Observed some branches 
 of trees floating about a mile from the shore, towards the north, 
 confirming our impression of an eddy-current. At 6 P. M., an 
 Arab brought in a catbird he had killed ; like all the other birds, 
 and most of the insects and animals, we had seen, it was of a 
 stone colour. 
 
 In the evening, some of the tribe Ta'amirah came in, — a little 
 more robust, but scarcely better clad, than the Rashayideh. They 
 were warm and hungry, from walking a long distance to meet us. 
 They had no food, and I directed some cooked rice to be given 
 to them. They had seated themselves round the pot, and were, 
 greedily about to devour its contents, when one of them suggested 
 that, perhaps, pork had been cooked in the same vessel. They rose, 
 therefore, in a body and came to the cook to satisfy their scruple. 
 I never saw disappointment more strongly pictured in the human 
 countenance than when told the vessel had often been used for 
 that purpose. Although nearly famished, they would not touch 
 the rice, and we could give them nothing else. Fearing that our 
 provisions would fall short, I advised them to return ; not to their 
 houses, for they have nothing so stable as to deserve the name, 
 but to their migratory tents. 
 
 As in all southern nations of this continent, the principal food 
 of the Arab is rice. Almost all other nations extract an intoxicat- 
 ing beverage from the plant, containing saccharine matter, which 
 constitutes their principal article of nourishment. But the Arab 
 scarcely knows what strong drink is, and has no name for wine, 
 the original Arabic word for which is now applied to coffee. 
 
 Our Arabs were such pilferers that we were obliged to keep a 
 most vigilant watch over everything, except the pork, which, 
 being an abomination to the Muslim, was left about the camp, in 
 full confidence that it would be left untouched. 
 
ANXIETY AS TO PROVISIONS. 191 
 
 At 8.30, there was a light breeze from the south-west — no 
 clouds visible — a pale-blue misty appearance over the sea. At 
 9, the wind shifted to the north, and blew strong; forced to 
 strengthen the tent-stakes and pile stones upon the canvass eaves. 
 The moon rose clear. Sea, rough. Weather, cool and pleasant. 
 A strong smell of sulphuretted hydrogen, which surprised us, 
 as we knew of no thermal spring in this vicinity. At midnight, 
 sky almost cloudless ; thin strata of cirri, extending north-east 
 and south-west. Wind ranging from north to north-east and 
 abating. Sherif said that he had often heard of the tyranny of 
 the Franks towards each other, but never thought they would 
 have sent their countrymen to so desolate a place as this. Most 
 of the Arabs, however, suspected that we came for gold ; and 
 Dr. Anderson's hammering at the rocks was, to them, conclusive 
 proof. 
 
 We measured a base line of 3350 feet across the plain, and 
 angled upon all possible points. An Arab, with two camels 
 loaded with salt, came from the south end of the sea, and was 
 going up this pass to Gaza. Commerce extends even here, 
 although her burnished keels have never ploughed this dreary sea. 
 Our water was brought the distance of a mile by the Arabs. 
 There were about fifty of them around the camp, and we could 
 not persuade them to go away. They were of the Raschayideh 
 and Ta'amirah tribes — mere bundles of rags, very poor, and, so 
 far, perfectly inoffensive. Some of them kissed our hands, and, 
 pointing to their miserable garments, by comprehensible gestures 
 solicited charity. 
 
 Our bread and rice falling short, and being uncertain about the 
 arrival of provisions from Jerusalem, I sent some Arabs to Hebron 
 for flour. Would that we could have gone there, too, and visited 
 the cave of Macpelah, near Mamre ! 
 
 One of my greatest anxieties was the difficulty of procuring 
 provisions. Should our train, coming from Jerusalem under 
 charge of Cr. Anderson and the Sherif, be plundered on its way, 
 and the emissary to Hebron procure but a small supply, we 
 should be in a starving condition. I would have also sent either 
 
192 GREAT HEAT. 
 
 Mr. Dale or Mr. Aulick to Jerusalem, but that their presence was 
 absolutely necessary. To sound the sea, take topographical 
 sketches of its shores, and make astronomical and barometrical 
 observations, gave full occupation to every one. This was to be 
 our depot ; here we were to leave our tents, and every thing we 
 could dispense with, and it would be our home while upon this 
 sea. 
 
 April 23, Easter Sunday. Deferred all work that we could pos- 
 sibly set aside, until to-morrow. At 7.30, thermometer 85°, and 
 rising rapidly ; the two extremities of the sea misty, with constant 
 evaporation ; sky cloudless, a light breeze from the north, the 
 heat so oppressive in the tent, that we breakfasted " al fresco." 
 A. M. Walking along the beach, saw a hawk, and shortly after 
 some doves, near the tent, all of the same colour as the moun- 
 tains and the shore. Each day, in the forenoon, the wind had 
 prevailed from the southward, and in the afternoon, until about 
 midnight, from the northward ; the last wind quite fresh, and 
 accompanied with a smell of sulphur. After midnight, it generally 
 fell calm. Although the nights were mostly cloudless, there was 
 scarcely any deposit of dew, the ground remaining heated through 
 the night from the intensity of the solar rays during the day. 
 ' Four young wild boars were brought in by an Arab ; they 
 escaped from him and ran to the sea, but were caught, and as we 
 would not buy them, in consequence of their being too young, 
 they were killed. 
 
 Nearly out of provisions, and, anxiously looking for Dr. An- 
 derson and the Sherif ; we gladly hailed their appearance shortly 
 after noon, creeping like mites along the lofty crags descending 
 to this deep chasm. 
 
 Although we saw the Doctor and Sherif shortly after noon, 
 they did not reach the camp until three hours after. The provi- 
 sions they brought were very acceptable. With them, came four 
 Turkish soldiers, to guard our camp while we should be absent. 
 
 P. M. We again noticed a current, setting to the northward 
 along the shore, and one further out, setting to the southward. 
 The last was no doubt the impetus given by the Jordan, and the 
 
AN ARAB DANCE. 
 
 193 
 
 former its eddy, deflected by Usdum and the southern shore of 
 the sea. 
 
 Arranged with Sherif that he should remain here, in charge of 
 
 our camp. 
 
 The scene at sunset was magnificent ;— the wild, mighty cliffs 
 above us, the dull, dead sea, and the shadows climbing up the 
 eastern mountains. And there was Kerak, castled upon the 
 loftiest summit of the range ! We never looked upon it but we 
 deplored the folly and rapacity of the " Lord of Kerak," which 
 lost to Christendom the guardianship of the Holy Sepulchre. 
 . We all felt a great oppression about the head, and much drow- 
 siness, particularly during the heat of the day. In the evening, 
 it was calm and sultry. 
 
 At night we visited Sherif. A number of Arabs were gathered 
 in front of the tent, and they gave us a dance. Ten or twelve 
 of them were drawn up in a line, curved a little inwards, and one 
 of them stood in front, with a naked sword. A mass of filthy 
 rags, with black heads above and spindle legs below ! Clapping 
 their hands, and chanting a low monotonous song, bowing and 
 bending, and swinging their bodies from side to side, they fol- 
 lowed the motions of the one in front. In a short time, one of 
 them commenced chanting extempore, and the others repeated 
 the words with monotonous cadence ; he with the sword waving 
 it to and fro in every direction, and keeping time and movement 
 with the rest. Their song referred to us. " Mr. Dale was strong 
 and rode a horse well." " Kobtan, (the captain) made much 
 work for Arabs, with his head." The dance was interrupted by 
 an old man suddenly darting into the circle, and, bare-footed, 
 with his aba gathered in his hands behind him, went jumping, 
 hopping, crouching, and keeping time to the strange sounds of 
 the others. The grotesque movements, the low monotonous 
 tones, and the seeming ill-timed levity of the old Arab, gave to 
 the whole affair the appearance of a wild coronach, disturbed by 
 the antics of a mountebank. In the swaying of the body and 
 clapping of the hands, some of us detected a resemblance to the 
 war-dance of the South Sea Islanders. 
 17 
 
194 SULPHUREOUS ODOUR. 
 
 A calm, sultry night. In the mid-watch there was a bright 
 meteor from the zenith, towards the north-east. The same sul- 
 phureous smell, but less unpleasant than when the wind blew 
 fresh. Molyneux detected the same odour the night he spent 
 upon the sea, whence he thought it proceeded. We have been 
 twice upon the sea when the spray was driven in our faces ; but 
 although the water was greasy, acrid, and disagreeable, it was 
 perfectly inodorous. I am therefore inclined to attribute the 
 noxious smell to the foetid springs and marshes along the shores 
 of the sea, increased, perhaps, by exhalations from stagnant pools 
 in the flat plain which bounds it to the north. 
 
 Monday, April 24. Called all hands at 4.45 A. M. ; light 
 wind from the north ; clouds, cirro-stratus, in the south and east ; 
 temperature, 78°. Wrote a note to Mr. Finn, H. B. M. Consul 
 at Jerusalem, respecting provisions. This gentleman had been 
 exceedingly kind and attentive. He had received our money on 
 deposite, and paid my drafts upon it. By this means we kept 
 but little money on hand, and avoided presenting a great tempta- 
 tion to the Arabs. 
 
 At 6, breakfasted luxuriously on fresh bread, brought, by the 
 Doctor, from Jerusalem. The latter reported Hugh Reid (sea- 
 man), one of the crew of the Fanny Skinner, as unable to work 
 at the oar. Determined to leave him in the camp, his affection 
 being a chronic one, uninfluenced by the climate. 
 
 At 6.30, started with Dr. Anderson, in the Fanny Mason, for 
 the peninsula, which had so long loomed, like Cape Flyaway, in 
 the distance. Directed Mr. Aulick to pull directly across to 
 Wady Mojeb (the River Arnon of the Old Testament), and sound 
 as he proceeded. 
 
 I left Mr. Dale and the rest of the party to make observations 
 for determining the position of the camp, and measure angles for 
 each end of the base-line. We steered, in the Fanny Mason, a 
 south-east course, directly for the north end of the peninsula, 
 sounding at short intervals. The first cast, near the shore, brought 
 up slimy mud, but further out, a light-coloured mud, and many 
 perfectly well formed cubic crystals of salt. These, as well as the 
 
THE PENINSULA. 195 
 
 mud, were carefully put up in air-tight vessels ; greatest depth, 
 137 fathoms, 822 feet. One of the deepest casts, the cup to Stel- 
 wagon's lead brought up a blade of grass, faded in colour, but of 
 as firm a texture as any plucked on the margin of a brook. It 
 must have been washed down by one of the fresh- water streams, 
 in connection with a heavier substance. 
 
 About midway across picked up a dead bird, which was float- 
 ing upon the water; we recognised it as a small quail. At 11, 
 reached the peninsula ; the sun intensely hot. It is a bold, broad 
 promonotory, from forty to sixty feet high, with a sharp angular 
 central ridge some twenty feet above it, and a broad margin of 
 sand at its foot, incrusted with salt and bitumen ; the perpendi- 
 cular face extending all round and presenting the coarse and 
 chalky appearance of recent carbonate of lime. There were 
 myriads of dead locusts strewed upon the beach, near the margin 
 of the sea. The summit of the peninsula is irregular and rugged ; 
 in some places showing the tent-shape formation, in others, a 
 series of disjointed crags. On the western side, the high penin- 
 sula, with its broad margin, extends to the southward until it is 
 lost in the misty sea. 
 
 There were a few bushes, their stems partly buried in the water, 
 and their leafless branches incrusted with salt, which sparkled as 
 trees do at home when the sun shines upon them after a heavy 
 sleet. Such an image, presented to the mind, while the frame 
 was weltering with the heat, was indeed like " holding a fire in 
 the hand and thinking of the frosty Caucasus." Near the imme- 
 diate base of the cliffs was a line of drift-wood deposited by 
 the sea at its full. Except the standing and prostrate dead trees, 
 there was not a vestige of vegetation. The mind cannot conceive 
 a more dreary scene, or an atmosphere more stifling and oppres- 
 sive. The reverberation of heat and light from the chalk-like 
 hills and the salt beach was almost insupportable. 
 
 Walking up the beach we saw the tracks of a hyena, and 
 another animal which we did not recognise, and soon after the 
 naked footprints of a man. To the eastward of the point is a 
 deep bay indenting the peninsula from the north. We followed 
 
196 WIDTH AND DEPTH OF THE SEA. 
 
 up an arched passage worn in the bank, and cutting steps in the 
 salt on each side, crawled through a large hole worn by the 
 rains, and clambered up the steep side of the ridge to gain a 
 view from the top. It presented a surface of sharp and angular 
 points, light coloured, bare of vegetation, and blinding to the 
 eye. We here collected many crystals of carbonate of lime. 
 During our absence, the sailors had endeavoured to make a fire 
 of the drift-wood as a signal to the camp, but it was so im- 
 pregnated with salt that it would not burn. 
 
 At 1 P. M., started on our return, steering directly across to 
 measure the width of the strait between the peninsula and the 
 western shore. There was little wind, the same faint sulphureous 
 smell, and every one struggling against a sensation of drowsiness. 
 Arrived at the camp a little before 6 P. M., in a dead calm, very 
 much wearied, temperature 92°. As we landed, an Arab ran up, 
 and gathering an armful of barley in the straw, threw it on the 
 fire, and then husking the grain by rubbing it in his hands, brought 
 it to me, and by gesture invited me to eat ; it was excellent. The 
 Fanny Skinner arrived shortly after. Mr. Aulick had sounded 
 directly across, and found the width of the sea by patent log to 
 be a little more than eight geographical, or about nine statute 
 miles ; the greatest depth 188 fathoms, ] 128 feet. He landed at 
 the mouth of the "Arnon;" — a considerable stream of water, 
 clear, fresh, and moderately cool, flowing between banks of red 
 sandstone. In it some small fish were seen. 
 
 On our first arrival here, I had despatched a messenger to the 
 tribes along the southern coast to procure guides. This afternoon 
 he returned with the information that they had been driven away, 
 and that the country was inhabited only by robbers. Sherif was 
 earnest in the advice to proceed no farther south ; but we could 
 not leave our work unaccomplished. A Sheikh of the Ta'amirah 
 agreed to walk along the coast in sight of the boats. We wished 
 to visit the ruins of Sebbeh on our route southward, and prepared 
 for several days' absence. At night a fresh breeze sprang up 
 from the northward and eastward. There were several large fires 
 on the peninsula. Secured a partridge and several insects for 
 
ARAB IMPROVISATORE. 197 
 
 our collection ; and there was also gathered a specimen of every 
 variety of flower for our herbarium. In the evening our Arabs 
 had another entertainment. An improvisatore in Arabic poetry 
 was engaged until a late hour reciting warlike narratives in verse 
 for the amusement of Sherif — some from Antar the celebrated 
 poet of Arabia; others, unpremeditated, in praise of Ibrahim 
 Pasha. At the end of each couplet, the audience pronounced 
 the final rhyming word after him. This was more endurable 
 than the one-stringed rehabeh, and less stupid than the dance of 
 last evening. In the night, killed a tarantula and a scorpion. 
 Oppressively sultry. A foetid, sulphureous odour in the night; 
 felt quite sick. At daybreak, a fine invigorating breeze from the 
 north ; air over the sea very misty. Did not rouse the camp until 
 6.30, for the night had been oppressive. The Arabs becoming 
 too numerous in the camp, I sent all away, except a few to bring 
 water to Sherif, and some to accompany us to show where water 
 could be found along the shore. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 EXPEDITION AROUND THE SOUTHERN SEA. 
 
 Tuesday, April 25. Completed a set of observations, bundled 
 up the mess things, and started on a reconnoissance of the south- 
 ern part of the sea ; leaving Sherif in charge of the camp, with 
 Read and the four Turkish soldiers. Steered about south, from 
 point to point, keeping near the Arabs along the shore, for their 
 protection; for they dreaded an attack from marauding parties. 
 Threw the patent log overboard ; the weather fair but exceedingly 
 hot ; thermometer, 89° ; little air stirring ; no clouds visible ; the 
 mountains, as we passed, seemed terraced, but the culture was 
 that of desolation. 
 17 * 
 
198 ANCIENT FORTIFICATION. 
 
 At 11, the patent log had marked 2 J knots ; depth, six feet; 
 bottom, soft brown mud ; made for a current ripple, a little farther 
 out, coloured with decomposed wood, membranes of leaves, 
 chaff, &c. ; depth, thirteen fathoms ; hard bottom ; resumed the 
 course along the shore. Occasionally sounded out to 2\ fathoms, 
 one mile from shore, to look for ford. Passed Wady Seyal Seb- 
 beh (ravine of Acacias), supposed to have water in it, very high 
 up, the log having marked 8J nautical miles. The cliff above 
 the ravine was that of Sebbeh, or Masada. It is a perpendicular 
 cliff, 1200 to 1500 feet high, with a deep ravine breaking down 
 on each side, so as to leave it isolated. On the level summit is 
 a line of broken walls, pierced in one place with an arch. This 
 fortalice, constructed by Herod, and successfully beleagured by 
 Silva, had a commanding but dreary prospect, overlooking the 
 deep chasm of this mysterious sea. Our Arabs could give no 
 other account of it than that there were ruins of large buildings 
 on the cliff. 
 
 The cliff of Sebbeh is removed some distance from the margin 
 of the sea by an intervening delta of sand and detritus, of more 
 than two miles in width. A mass of scorched and calcined rock, 
 regularly laminated at its summit, and isolated from the rugged 
 strip, which skirts the western shore, by deep and darkly sha- 
 dowed defiles and lateral ravines, its aspect from the sea is one 
 of stern and solemn grandeur, and seems in harmony with the 
 fearful records of the past. 
 
 There is that peculiar purple hue of its weather-worn rock, a 
 tint so like that of coagulated blood that it forces the mind back 
 upon its early history, and summons images of the fearful im- 
 molation of Eleazar and the nine hundred and sixty Sicarii, 
 the blood of whose self-slaughter seems to have tinged the inde- 
 structible cliff for ever. 
 
 At 3.05 P. M. a fine northerly wind blowing ; stopped to take 
 in our Arabs. They brought a piece of bitumen, found on the 
 shore, near Sebbeh, where we had intended to camp ; but the 
 wind was fair, and there was an uncertainty about water. We 
 ascertained that there is no ford here as laid down in the map of 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE WESTERN SHORE 
 
 199 
 
 Messrs. Robinson and Smith. One of the Arabs said that there 
 was once a ford here, but all the others denied it. Passed two 
 ravines and the bluff of Rubtat el Jamus (Tying of the Buffalo), 
 and at 5 P. M., stopped for the night in a little cove, immediately 
 north of Wady Mubughghik, five or six miles north of the salt- 
 mountain of Usdum, which loomed up, isolated to the south. 
 From Ain Jidy to this place, the patent log measured 13| nautical 
 miles, which is less than the actual distance, the log sometimes 
 not working, from the shoalness of the water. 
 
 We paid particular attention to the geological construction of 
 the western shore, with a special regard to the disposition of the 
 ancient terraces and abutments of the tertiary limestone and marls. 
 There may be rich ores in these barren rocks. Nature is ever 
 provident in her liberality, and when she denies fertility of sur- 
 face, often repays man with her embowelled treasures. There is 
 scarce a variety of rock that has not been found to contain metals ; 
 and it is said that the richness of the veins is for the most part 
 independent of the nature of the beds they intersect. 
 
 There has been no great variety in the scenery, to-day ; the 
 same bold and savage cliffs ; the same broad peninsulas, or deltas, 
 at the mouths of the ravines,— some of them sprinkled here and 
 there with vegetation,— all evincing the recent or immediate pre- 
 sence of water. This part of the coast is claimed by no particular 
 tribe, but is common to roaming bands of marauders. 
 
 The beach was bordered with innumerable dead locusts. There 
 was also bitumen in occasional lumps, and incrustations of lime 
 and salt. The bitumen presented a bright, smooth surface when 
 fractured, and looked like a consolidated fluid. The Arabs called 
 it hajar Mousa (Moses' stone). 
 
 Our Arabs insisted upon it that the only ford was at the south- 
 ern extremity of the sea. There were seven of them with us, and 
 they were of three tribes, the Rashayideh, Ta'amirah and Kabeneh. 
 Being beyond the limits of their own territories, they were very 
 apprehensive of an attack from hostile tribes. When, this after- 
 noon, under the impression, which proved to be correct, that 
 there was water in the ravine, we called to them, they came down 
 
200 RAVINE, WITH RUINS. 
 
 in all haste, unslinging their guns as they ran, in the supposition 
 that we were attacked, — evincing, thereby, more spirit than we 
 had anticipated. They were very uneasy; and, immediately 
 after our arrival, one of them was perched, like a goat, upon a 
 high cliff; and the others had bivouacked where they commanded 
 a full view into the mouth of the ravine. 
 
 Our camp was in a little cove, on the north side of the delta, 
 which had been formed by the deposition of the winter torrents, 
 and extends half a mile out, with a rounding point to the east- 
 ward. The ravine comes down between two high, round-topped 
 mountains, of a dark, burnt-brown colour, and a horizontal, ter- 
 race-like stratum, half-way up. In the plain were several nubk 
 and tamarisk trees, and three kinds of shrubs, and some flowers, 
 which we gathered for preservation. Near the ravine, on a slight 
 eminence, we discovered the ruins of a building, with square-cut 
 stones, — the foundation-walls alone remaining, and a line of low 
 wall running down to the ravine ; near it was a rude canal. There 
 were many remains of terraces. Here Costigan thought that he 
 had found the ruins of Gomorrah. About half a mile up, the 
 faces of the ravine cut down perpendicularly through limestone 
 rock, and turned, at right angles, a short distance above, with 
 here and there a few bushes in the bottom. We found a little 
 brook purling down the ravine, and soon losing itself in the dry 
 plain. We were now almost at the southern extremity of the 
 sea. The boats having been drawn up on the beach, their awn- 
 ings were made to supply the places of tents, the open side facing 
 the ravine ; the blunderbuss at our head, and the sentries walking 
 beside it. At 8 P. M., there were a few light cumuli in the sky, 
 but no wind. At 8.30, a hot fresh wind from north-west ; ther- 
 mometer, 82° ; at 9, 86°. Finding it too oppressive under the 
 awning, we crawled out upon the open beach, and, with our feet 
 nearly at the water's edge, slept " a la belle etoile." After the 
 manner of the poor highwayman, we slept in our clothes, under 
 arms, and upon the ground. It continued very hot during the 
 night, and we could not endure even a kerchief over our faces, 
 to screen them from the hot and blistering wind. 
 
A SIROCCO. 201 
 
 This was doubtless a sirocco, but it came from an unusual 
 quarter. At midnight, the thermometer stood at 88°. There were 
 several light meteors from the zenith towards the north, seen dur- 
 ing the night. While the wind lasted, the atmosphere was hazy. 
 Notwithstanding the oppressive heat, there was a pleasure in our 
 strange sensations, lying in the open air, upon the pebbly beach 
 of this desolate and unknown sea, perhaps near the sites of Sodom 
 and Gomorrah ; the salt mountains of Usdum in close proximity, 
 and nothing but bright, familiar stars above us. 
 
 Wednesday, April 26. When I awoke this morning there was 
 a young quail at my side, where, in the night, it had most pro- 
 bably crept for shelter from the strong, hot wind. 
 
 We were up before sunrise ; light variable airs and warm 
 weather. Started and steered in a direct line for Ras Hish (cape 
 Thicket), the north point of Usdum. Sounding every few minutes 
 for the ford ; stretching out occasionally from the shore line, and 
 returning to it again, when the water deepened to two fathoms. 
 
 At 8.12, stood in and landed on the extreme point of Usdum. 
 Many dead bushes along the shore, which are incrusted with salt 
 as at the peninsula. Found it a broad, flat, marshy delta, the 
 soil coated with salt and bitumen, and yielding to the foot. 
 
 At 8.30, started again and steered E. S. E., sounding every five 
 minutes, the depth from one to one and three-quarter fathoms ; 
 white and black slime and mud. Seetzen saw this salt mountain in 
 1806, and says that he never before beheld one so torn and riven ; 
 but neither Costigan nor Molyneux, who were in boats, came 
 farther south on the sea than the peninsula. With regard to this 
 part, therefore, which most probably covers the guilty cities, — ■ 
 
 "We are the first 
 That ever burst 
 Into this silent sea." 
 
 At 9, the water shoaling, hauled more off shore. Soon after, 
 to our astonishment, we saw on the eastern side of Usdum, one 
 third the distance from its north extreme, a lofty, round pillar, 
 standing apparently detached from the general mass, at the head 
 of a deep, narrow, and abrupt chasm. We immediately pulled in 
 
202 PILLAR OF SALT. 
 
 for the shore, and Dr. Anderson and I went up and examined it. 
 The beach was a soft, slimy mud encrusted with salt, and a short 
 distance from the water, covered with saline fragments and flakes 
 of bitumen. We found the pillar to be of solid salt, capped with 
 carbonate of lime, cylindrical in front and pyramidal behind. 
 The upper or rounded part is about forty feet high, resting on a 
 kind of oval pedestal, from forty to sixty feet above the level of 
 the sea. It slightly decreases in size upwards, crumbles at the 
 top, and is one entire mass of crystallization. A prop, or but- 
 tress connects it with the mountain behind, and the whole is 
 covered with debris of a light stone colour. Its peculiar shape is 
 doubtless attributable to the action of the winter rains. The Arabs 
 had told us in vague terms that there was to be found a pillar 
 somewhere upon the shores of the sea ; but their statements in all 
 other respects had proved so unsatisfactory, that we placed no 
 reliance upon them. 1 
 
 At 10.10, returned to the boat with large specimens. The 
 shore was soft and very yielding for a great distance ; the boats 
 could not get within 200 yards of the beach, and our foot-prints 
 made on landing, were, when we returned, incrusted with salt. 
 
 Some of the Arabs, when they came up, brought a species of 
 melon they had gathered near the north spit of Usdum. It was 
 
 1 A similar pillar is mentioned by Josephus, who expresses the belief 
 of its being the identical one into which Lot's wife was transformed. His 
 words are, " But Lot's wife continually turning back to view the city as 
 she went from it. and being too nicely inquisitive what would become of 
 it, although God had forbidden her so to do, was changed into a pillar of 
 salt, for I have seen it, and it remains at this day." — 1 Josephus' Anti., 
 book 1, chap. 12. 
 
 St. Clement, of Rome, a contemporary of Josephus, also mentions this 
 pillar, and likewise St. Ireneeus, a writer of the second century, who adds 
 the hypothesis, how it came to last so long with all its members entire. Re- 
 land relates an old tradition that as fast as any part of this pillar was 
 washed away, it was supernaturally renewed. 
 
 "Whose land for a testimony of their wickedness, is desolate, and 
 smoketh to this day ; and the trees bear fruits that ripen not ; and a stand- 
 ing pillar of salt is a monument of an incredulous soul." — Book of Wis- 
 dom, x. 7. 
 
MUDDY SHORE. 203 
 
 oblong, ribbed, of a dark green colour, much resembling a can- 
 telope. When cut, the meat and seeds resembled the same fruit, 
 but were excessively bitter to the taste. A mouthful of quinine 
 could not have been more distasteful, or adhered longer and 
 more tenaciously to the reluctant palate. 
 
 Intending to examine the south end of the sea, and then pro- 
 ceed over to the eastern shore in the hope of finding water, we 
 discharged all our Arabs but one, and sharing our small store of 
 water with them, and giving them provisions, we started again, 
 and steered south. 
 
 11.28, unable to proceed any further south from shallowness of 
 the water, having run into six inches, and the boats' keels stirring 
 up the mud. The Fanny Skinner having less draught, was able 
 to get a little nearer to the shore, but grounded 300 yards off. 
 Mr. Dale landed to observe for the latitude. His feet sank first 
 through a layer of slimy mud a foot deep, then through a crust of 
 salt, and then another foot of mud, before reaching a firm bottom. 
 The beach was so hot as to blister the feet. From the water's 
 edge, he made his way with difficulty for more than a hundred 
 yards over black mud, coated with salt and bitumen. 
 
 Unfortunately, from the great depth of this chasm, and the ap- 
 proach of the sun towards the tropic of Cancer, the sextant (one 
 of Gambey's best) would not measure the altitude with an artifi- 
 cial horizon, and there was not sufficient natural horizon for the 
 measurement. We therefore took magnetic bearings in every 
 direction, which, with observations of Polaris, would be equally 
 correct, but more laborious. We particularly noted the geogra- 
 phical position of the south end of Usdum, which was now a little 
 south of the southern end of the sea. The latter is ever- varying, 
 extending south from the increased flow of the Jordan and the 
 efflux of the torrents in winter, and receding with the rapid eva- 
 poration, consequent upon the heat of summer. 
 
 In returning to the boat, one of the men attempted to carry 
 Mr. Dale to the water, but sunk down, and they were obliged 
 separately to flounder through. When they could, they ran for 
 it. They describe it as like running over burning ashes, — the 
 
204 A MUDDY BOTTOM. 
 
 perspiration starting from every pore with the heat. It was a 
 delightful sensation when their feet touched the water, even the 
 salt, slimy water of the sea, at the temperature of 88°. 
 
 The southern shore presented a mud-flat, which is terminated 
 by the high hills bounding the Ghor to the southward. A very 
 extensive plain or delta, low and marshy towards the sea, but 
 rising gently, and, farther back, covered with luxuriant green, is 
 the outlet of Wady es Safieh (clear ravine). Anxious to examine 
 it, we coasted along, just keeping the boat afloat, the in-shore 
 oars stirring up the mud. The shore was full three-fourths of a 
 mile distant, the line of demarcation scarce perceptible, from 
 the stillness of the water, and the smooth, shining surface of 
 the marsh. On the flat beyond, were lines of drift-wood, and 
 here and there, in the shallow water, branches of dead trees, 
 which, like those at the peninsula, were coated with saline in- 
 crustation. The bottom was so very soft that it yielded to 
 everything, and at each cast the sounding lead sank deep into 
 the mud. Thermometer, 95°. Threw the drag over, but it 
 brought up nothing but soft, marshy, light coloured mud. 
 
 It was indeed a scene of unmitigated desolation. On one side, 
 rugged and worn, was the salt mountain of Usdum, with its con- 
 spicuous pillar, which reminded us at least of the catastrophe 
 of the plain ; on the other were the lofty and barren cliffs of 
 Moab, in one of the caves of which the fugitive Lot found shelter. 
 To the south was an extensive flat intersected by sluggish drains, 
 with the high hills of Edom semi-girding the salt plain where the 
 Israelites repeatedly overthrew their enemies ; and to the north 
 was the calm and motionless sea, curtained with a purple mist, 
 while many fathoms deep in the slimy mud beneath it lay em- 
 bedded the ruins of the ill-fated cities of Sodom and Gomorrah. 
 The glare of light was blinding to the eye, and the atmosphere 
 difficult of respiration. No bird fanned with its wing the attenu- 
 ated air through which the sun poured his scorching rays upon 
 the mysterious element on which we floated, and which alone, of 
 all the works of its Maker, contains no living thing within it. 
 While in full view of the peninsula, I named its northern ex- 
 
INTENSE HEAT. 205 
 
 tremity " Point Costigan," and its southern one " Point Moly- 
 neux," as a tribute to the memories of the two gallant Englishmen 
 who lost their lives in attempting to explore this sea. 
 
 At 11.42, much frothy scum ; picked up a dead bird resembling 
 a quail ; sounding every five minutes, depth increasing to four 
 feet, bottom a little firmer ; the only ford must be about here. 
 
 At 12.21, there was a very loud, reverberating report, as of 
 startling thunder, and a cloud of smoke and dust on the western 
 shore ; most probably caused by a huge jock falling from a high 
 cliff. 
 
 In two hours, we were close in with the eastern shore, but 
 unable to land from the soft bottom and shoalness of the water. 
 At 2.50, a light breeze from W. N. W.; hauled to the north 
 towards the base of the peninsula. A long, narrow dry marsh, 
 with a few scrubby bushes, separated the water from a range of 
 stupendous hills, 2000 feet high. The cliff of En Nuweireh 
 (Little Tiger), lofty and grand, towered above us in horizontal 
 strata of brown limestone, and beautiful rose-coloured sandstone 
 beneath. Clouds in the east, nimbus, seemed to be threatening 
 a gust. Steered along a low marshy flat, in shallow water. The 
 light wind subsided, and it became oppressively hot ; air 97°; 
 water twelve inches below the surface 90°. A thin purple haze over 
 the mountains, increasing every moment, and presenting a most 
 singular and awful appearance ; the haze so thin that it was trans- 
 parent, and rather a blush than a distinct colour. I apprehended 
 a thunder-gust or an earthquake, and took in the sail. At 3.50, 
 a hot, blistering hurricane struck us from the south-east, and for 
 some moments we feared being driven out to sea. The thermo- 
 meter rose immediately to 102°. The men, closing their eyes to 
 shield them from the fiery blast, were obliged to pull with all their 
 might to stem the rising waves, and at 4.30, physically exhausted, 
 but with grateful hearts, we gained the shore. My own eye-lids 
 were blistered by the hot wind, being unable to protect them, 
 from the necessity of steering the boat. 
 
 We landed on the south side of the peninsula, near Wady 
 Humeir, the most desolate spot upon which we had yet encamped. 
 18 
 
206 ANOTHER SIROCCO. 
 
 Some went up the ravine to escape from the stifling wind ; others, 
 driven back by the glare, returned to the boats and crouched 
 under the awnings. One mounted spectacles to protect his eyes, 
 but the metal became so heated that he was obliged to remove 
 them. Our arms and the buttons on our coats became almost 
 burning to the touch ; and the inner folds of our garments were 
 cooler than those exposed to the immediate contact of the wind. 
 We bivouacked without tents, on a dry marsh, a few dead bushes 
 around us, and some of the thorny nubk, and a tree bearing a 
 red berry a short distance inland, with low canes on the margin 
 of the sea. 
 
 At 5, finding the heat intolerable, we walked up the dry torrent 
 bed in search of water. Found two successive pools rather than 
 a stream, with some minnows in them ; the water not yet stag- 
 nant, flowing from the upper to the lower pool. There were 
 some succulent plants on their margins, and fern roots, and a few 
 bushes around them. There were huge boulders of sandstone in 
 the bed of the ravine ; a dead palm-tree, near the largest pool, a 
 living one in a cleft of the rock at the head of the gorge ; and 
 high up, to the summits of the beetling cliffs, the sandstone lay 
 in horizontal strata, with perpendicular cleavage, and limestone 
 above, its light brown colour richly contrasting with the deep red 
 below. 
 
 The sandstone below limestone here, and limestone without 
 sandstone on the opposite shore, would seem to indicate a geolo- 
 gical fault. 
 
 Washed and bathed in one of the pools, but the relief was only 
 momentary. In one instant after leaving the water, the moisture 
 on the surface evaporated, and left the skin dry, parched, and 
 stiff. Except the minnows in the pool, there was not a living 
 thing stirring; but the hot wind swept moaning through the 
 oranches of the withered palm-tree, 1 and every bird and insect, if 
 any there were, had sought shelter under the rocks. 
 
 Coming out from the ravine, the sight was a singular one. 
 The wind had increased to a tempest ; the two extremities and 
 1 The date-palm. 
 
WELL-FORMED ARABS. 207 
 
 the western shore of the sea were curtained by a mist, on this side 
 of a purple hue, on the other a yellow tinge ; and the red and 
 rayless sun, in the bronzed clouds, had the appearance it presents 
 when looked upon through smoked glass. Thus may the heavens 
 have appeared just before the Almighty in his wrath rained down 
 fire upon the cities of the plain. Behind were the rugged crags 
 of the mountains of Moab, the land of incest, enveloped in a cloud 
 of dust, swept by the simoom from the great desert of Arabia. 
 
 There was a smoke on the peninsula a little to the north of us. 
 We knew not whether those who made it might prove friends or 
 foes ; and therefore that little smoke was not to be disregarded. 
 We had brought one of the Ta'amirah with us, for the express 
 purpose of communicating with the natives, but he was so fearful 
 of their hostility that I could not prevail on him to bear a message 
 to them. With his back to the wind, and his eyes fixed on the 
 streaming smoke, he had squatted himself down a short distance 
 from us. He thought that we would be attacked in the night ; I 
 felt sure that we would not, if we were vigilant. These people 
 never make an attack but at advantage, and fifteen well-armed 
 Franks can, here, bid defiance to anything but surprise. 
 
 We have not seen an instance of deformity among the Arab 
 tribes. This man was magnificently formed, and when he walked 
 it was with the port and presence of a king. It has been remarked 
 that races with highly coloured skins are rarely deformed ; and 
 the exemption is attributed, perhaps erroneously, not to a mode 
 of life differing from that of a civilized one, but to hereditary 
 organization. 
 
 The sky grew more angry as the day declined ; 
 
 "The setting orb in crimson ' ? seemed " to mourn, 
 Denouncing greater woes at his return, 
 And adds new horrors to the present doom 
 By certain fear of evils yet to come." 
 
 The heat rather increased than lessened after the sun went down. 
 At 8 P. M., the thermometer was 106° five feet from the ground. 
 At one foot from the latter it was 104°. We threw ourselves 
 upon the parched, cracked earth, among dry stalks and canes, 
 
208 HEAT AND THIRST. 
 
 which would before have seemed insupportable from the heat. 
 Some endeavoured to make a screen of one of the boats' awn- 
 ings, but the fierce wind swept it over in an instant. It was 
 more like the blast of a furnace than living air. At our feet was 
 the sea, and on our right, through the thicket, we could distinguish 
 the gleaming of the fires and hear the shouts from an Arab en- 
 campment. 
 
 In the early part of the night, there was scarce a moment that 
 some one was not at the water-breakers ; but the parching thirst 
 could not be allayed, for, although there was no perceptible per- 
 spiration, the fluid was carried off as fast as it was received into 
 the system. At 9, the breakers were exhausted, and our last 
 waking thought was water. In our disturbed and feverish slum- 
 bers, we fancied the cool beverage purling down our parched and 
 burning throats. The mosquitoes, as if their stings were envenom- 
 ed by the heat, tormented us almost to madness, and we spent a 
 miserable night, throughout which we were compelled to lie en- 
 cumbered with our arms, while, by turns, we kept vigilant watch. 
 
 We had spent the day in the glare of a Syrian sun, by the salt 
 mountain of Usdum in the hot blast of the sirocco, and were now 
 bivouacked under the calcined cliffs of Moab. When the water 
 was exhausted, all too weary to go for more, even if there were 
 no danger of a surprise, we threw ourselves upon the ground, — 
 eyes smarting, skin burning, lips, and tongue, and throat parched 
 and dry ; and wrapped the first garment we could find around 
 our heads to keep off the stifling blast ; and, in our brief and 
 broken slumbers, drank from ideal fountains. 
 
 Those who have never felt thirst, never suffered in a simoom 
 in the wilderness, or been far off at sea, with 
 
 u Water, water everywhere, 
 Nor any drop to drink," 
 
 can form no idea of our sensations. They are best illustrated by 
 the exclamation of the victim in Dante's Inferno. 
 
 " The little rills which down the grassy side 
 Of Casentino flow to Arno's stream, 
 
THE HEAT ABATES. 209 
 
 Filling their banks with verdure as they glide, 
 Are ever in my view ; — no idle dream — 
 For more that vision parches, makes we weak, 
 Than that disease which wastes my pallid cheek." 
 
 Our thoughts could not revert to home save in connexion with 
 the precious element ; and many were the imaginary speeches we 
 made to visionary common councils against ideal water-carts, 
 which went about unsubstantial city streets, spouting the glorious 
 liquid in the very wastefulness of abundance, every drop of which 
 seemed priceless pearls, as we lay on the shore of the Dead Sea, 
 in the feverish sleep of thirst. 
 
 The poor affrighted Arab slept not a wink ; for, repeatedly, 
 when I went out, as was my custom, to see that alltgvas quiet and 
 the sentries on the alert, he was ever in the same place, looking 
 in the same direction. 
 
 At midnight the thermometer stood at 98° ; shortly after which 
 the wind shifted and blew lightly from the north. At 4 A.M., 
 thermometer, 82° ; comparatively cool. 
 
 Thursday, April 27. The first thing on waking, at day-break, 
 I saw a large, black bird, high overhead, floating between us 
 and the mottled sky. Shortly after, a large flock of birds flew 
 along the shore, and a number of storks were noiselessly winging 
 their way in the gray and indistinct light of the early morning. 
 Calm and warm; — went up and bathed in the ravine. There 
 were voices in the cliffs overhead, and shortly after there was the 
 report of a gun, the reverberating echoes of which were distinctly 
 heard at the camp. As I had gone unattended, the officers were 
 alarmed, and some went to look for me. Our Arab was exceed- 
 ingly nervous. The gun was doubtless a signal from a look-out 
 on the cliff to his friends inland, for these people live in a constant 
 state of civil warfare, and station sentinels on elevated points to 
 give notice of a hostile approach. I thought that we inspired 
 them with more fear than they did us. Heard a partridge up in 
 the cliffs, and saw a dove and a beautiful humming-bird in the 
 ravine. 
 
 There were some fellahas (female fellahin) on a plain to the 
 18* 
 
210 A MENACED ATTACK. 
 
 northward of us. They allowed Mustafa to approach within 
 speaking distance, but no nearer. They asked who we were, how 
 and why we came, and why we did not go away. About an 
 hour after, some thirty or forty fellahin, the Sheikh armed with a 
 sword, the rest with indifferent guns, lances, clubs, and branches 
 of trees, came towards us, singing the song of their tribe. I 
 drew our party up, and, with the interpreter, advanced to meet 
 them. When they came near, I drew a line upon the ground, 
 and told them that if they passed it they would be fired upon. 
 Thereupon, they squatted down, to hold a palaver. They 
 belonged to the Ghaurariyeh, and were as ragged, filthy, and 
 physically weak, as the tribe of Rashayideh, on the western 
 shore. Fineftng us too strong for a demand, they begged for 
 backshish. We gave them some food to eat, for they looked 
 famished ; also a little tobacco and a small gratuity, to bear a 
 letter to 'Akil, (who must soon be in Kerak,) appointing when 
 and where to have a look-out for us. 
 
 Before starting, we took observations, and angled in every 
 direction. 
 
 The Arabs gathered on the shore to see us depart, earnestly 
 asking Mustafa how the boats could move without legs ; he bade 
 them wait aw T hile, and they would see very long ones. The 
 Fanny Mason sounded directly across to the western shore ; the 
 casts taken at short intervals, varying from one and three-quarters 
 to two and a quarter fathoms ; bottom, light and dark mud. 
 
 This shallow bay is mentioned in Joshua, xv. 2. Everything 
 said in the Bible about the sea and the Jordan, we believe to be 
 fully verified by our observations. 
 
 On our way, picked up a dead quail, which had probably per- 
 ished in attempting to fly over the sea ; perhaps caught in last 
 night's sirocco. Soon after, saw appearances of sand-spits on the 
 surface of the sea, doubtless the optical delusion which has so often 
 led travellers to mistake them for islands. Sent the Fanny Skinner 
 to Point Molyneux, the south end of the peninsula, to take meri- 
 dian observation ; much frothy scum upon the water. Landed 
 at Wady Muhariwat (Surrounded ravine), on the western shore, 
 
ANOTHER SIROCCO. 211 
 
 where a shallow salt stream, formed by a number of springs 
 oozing from a bank covered with shrubs, spread itself over a 
 considerable space, and trickled down over the pebbles into the 
 sea. There were some very small fish in the stream. Thermo- 
 meter, 96°. 
 
 Started again, and steered parallel with the western shore. 
 Keeping about one-third the distance between the western shore 
 and the peninsula, the soundings ranged steadily at two and a 
 quarter fathoms; first part light, the second part dark mud. At 
 the expiration of two hours, encountered a very singular swell 
 from north-west, — an undulation, rather; for the waves were 
 glassy, with an unbroken surface, and there was not air enough 
 stirring to move the gossamer curls of a sleeping infant. We knew 
 well of what it was the precursor, and immediately steered for 
 the land. We had scarcely rowed a quarter of an hour, the men 
 pulling vigorously to reach the shelter of the cliffs, when we were 
 struck by a violent gust of hot wind, — another sirocco. The 
 surface of the water became instantly ruffled ; changing in five 
 minutes from a slow, sluggish, unbroken swell, to an angry and 
 foaming sea. 
 
 With eyes smarting from the spray, we buffeted against it for 
 upwards of an hour, when the wind abruptly subsided, and the 
 sea as rapidly became smooth and rippling. The gust was from 
 the north-west. The wind afterwards became liofht and bafflino", 
 — at one moment fair, the next directly ahead ; the smooth sur- 
 face of the water unbroken, except a light ruffle here and there, 
 as swept by the flickering airs. 
 
 Stopped for the night in a spacious bay, on a fine pebbly beach, 
 at the foot of Rubtat el Jamiis (Tying of the Buffalo). It was a 
 desolate-looking, verdureless range above us. There was no 
 water to be found, and our provisions were becoming scarce ; we 
 made a scanty supper, but had the luxury of a bed of pebbles, 
 which, although hard and coarse, was far preferable to the mud 
 and dust of our last sleeping-place. We hoped, too, to have 
 but a reasonable number of insect-bedfellows. 
 
 Mr. Dale described the extreme point of the peninsula upon 
 
212 SCANTY PROVISIONS. 
 
 which he landed as a low flat, covered with incrustations of salt 
 and carbonate of lime. It was the point of the margin : there was 
 a corresponding point to the high land, which is thinly laminated 
 with salt. They picked up some small pieces of pure sulphur. 
 In a cave, were tracks of a panther. After leaving the point, 
 he s,aw a small flock of ducks and a heron, which were too shy to 
 permit a near approach. 
 
 Before retiring, our Arabs, who had gone for hours in a fruitless 
 search for water, returned with some dhom apples (fruit of the 
 nubk), which amazingly helped out the supper. 
 
 I do not know what we should have done without these Arabs ; 
 they brought us food when we were nearly famished, and water 
 when parched with thirst. They acted as guides and messengers, 
 and in our absence faithfully guarded the camp. A decided 
 course tempered with courtesy, wins at once their respect and 
 good will. Although they are an impetuous race, not an angry 
 word had thus far passed between us. With the blessing of God, 
 I hoped to preserve the existing harmony to the last. 
 
 Took observations of Polaris. The north-west wind, hot and 
 unrefreshing, sprang up at 8 P. M., and blew through the night. 
 
 Friday, April 28. Breakfasted "a la hate" on a small cup of 
 coffee each, and started at sunrise. If the wind should spring up 
 fair, we purposed sailing over to the Anion ; in the mean time we 
 coasted along the shore towards Ain Jidy, for the water was ex- 
 hausted, and we must make for the camp if a calm or a head wind 
 should prevail. At 7.30, the wind freshened up from N. E. A 
 little north of Sebbeh we passed a long, low, gravelly island, left 
 uncovered by the retrocession of the water. A great refraction of 
 the atmosphere. The Fanny Skinner round the point, seemed 
 elevated above it. Her whole frame, from the surface of the 
 water, was distinctly visible, although the land intervened. Our 
 compass glass was incrusted with salt. 
 
 Notwithstanding the high wind, the tendency to drowsiness 
 was almost irresistible. The men pulled mechanically, with half- 
 closed lids, and, except them and myself, every one in the copper 
 boat was fast asleep. The necessity of steering and observing all 
 
INTELLIGENCE FROM HOME. 213 
 
 that transpired, alone kept me awake. The drowsy sensation, 
 amounting almost to stupor, was greatest in the heat of the day, 
 but did not disappear at night. In the experience of all, two 
 hours' watch here seemed longer than double the period else- 
 where. At 1.30 P. M., nearly up with Ain Jidy ; the white tents 
 of the camp, the line of green, and the far-off fountain, speaking 
 of shade, refreshment and repose. A camel was lying on the 
 shore, and two Arabs a little beyond. Discerning us, the latter 
 rose quickly and came towards the landing, shouting, singing, 
 and making wild gesticulations, and one of them stooped and 
 picked up a handful of earth and put it upon his head. Here the 
 Sherif met us with a delight too simple-hearted in its expression 
 to be insincere. The old man had been exceedingly anxious for 
 our safety, and seemed truly overjoyed at our return. We were 
 also much gratified to find that he had been unmolested. 
 
 One of the Arabs whom we sent back from Usdum fell fainting 
 on his return, and nearly famished for want of water. His com- 
 panions, suffering from the same cause, were compelled to leave 
 him on the parched and arid shore and hasten forward to save 
 themselves. Fortunately there was a messenger in the camp, who 
 had come on horseback from Jerusalem, and Sherif was enabled to 
 send water forthwith, and have the poor man brought to the 
 tents. 
 
 Found letters awaiting us from Beirut, forwarded express from 
 Jerusalem. Our consul at the former place announced the death 
 of John Quincy Adams, Ex-President of the U. States, and sent 
 an extract from a Malta paper containing the annunciation. These 
 were the first tidings we had received from the outer world, and 
 their burthen was a sad one. But on that sea, the thought of 
 death harmonized with the atmosphere and the scenery, and when 
 echo spoke of it, where all else was desolation and decay, it was 
 hard to divest ourselves of the idea that there was nothing but 
 death in the world, and we the only living : — 
 
 " Death is here, and death is theie, 
 Death is busy everywhere." 
 
214 AN E6ERIAN FOUTAIAN. 
 
 We lowered the flag half-mast, and there was a gloom throughout 
 the camp. 
 
 Among the letters, I received one from the Mushir of Saida. 
 After many compliments, he promised to reprimand Sa'id Bey 
 for the grasping spirit he had evinced, and authorized our ally, 
 'Akil, to remain with us as long as we might desire. 
 
 In the evening we walked up the ravine to bathe. It was a 
 toilsome walk over the rough debris brought down by the winter 
 rains. A short distance up, we were surprised to see evidences 
 of former habitations in the rocks. Roughly hewn caverns and 
 natural excavations we had frequently observed, but none before 
 evincing so much art. Some of the apertures were arched and 
 cased with sills of limestone resembling an inferior kind of mar- 
 ble. We were at a loss how to obtain an entrance, for they were 
 cut in the perpendicular face of the rock, and the lowest more 
 than fifty feet from the bed of the ravine. We stopped to plan 
 some mode of gaining an entrance to one of them ; but the sound 
 of the running stream, and the cool shadow of the gorge were too 
 inviting, and advancing through tamarisk, oleander, and cane, 
 we came upon the very Egeria of fountains. Far in among the 
 cane, embowered, imbedded, hidden deep in the shadow of the 
 purple rocks and the soft green gloom of luxuriant vegetation, 
 lapsing with a gentle murmur from basin to basin, over the rocks, 
 under the rocks, by the rocks, and clasping the rocks with its 
 crystal arms, was this little fountain-wonder. The thorny nubk 
 and the pliant osher were on the bank above ; yet lower, the 
 oleander and the tamarisk ; while upon its brink the lofty cane, 
 bent by the weight of its fringe-like tassels, formed bowers over 
 the stream fit for the haunts of Naiads. Diana herself could not 
 have desired a more secluded bath than each of us took in a 
 separate basin. 
 
 This more probably than the fountain of Ain Jidy (Engaddi), 
 high up the mountain, may be regarded as the genuine " dia- 
 mond of the desert" — and in one of the vaulted caves above, 
 the imagination can dwell upon the night procession, Edith 
 Plantagenet, and the flower dropped in hesitation and picked 
 
UNWONTED ENJOYMENT. 215 
 
 up with avidity ; the pure, disinterested aspirations of the Cru- 
 sader, the licentious thoughts of the Saracen, and the wild, im- 
 practicable visions of the saintly enthusiast. One of those 
 caverns, too, since fashioned by the hand of man, may have 
 been the veritable cave of " Adullam," for this is the wilderness 
 of Engaddi. 1 Here too may have been the dwellings of the 
 Essenes, prior to the days of Christianity, and subsequently 
 of hermits, when Palestine was under Christian sway. Our 
 Arabs say that these caves have been here from time immemorial, 
 and that many years ago some of the tribe succeeded in entering 
 one of them, and found vast chambers excavated in the rock. 
 They may have been the cells where " gibbered and moaned " 
 the hermit of Engaddi. 
 
 Having bathed, we returned much refreshed to the camp. The 
 messenger had brought sugar and lemons, and, with abundance 
 of water, w r e had lemonade and coffee ; and, sheltered from the 
 sun, with the wind blowing through the tent, we revelled in 
 enjoyment. This place, which at first seemed so dreary, had 
 now become almost a paradise by contrast. The breeze blew 
 freshly, but it was so welcome a guest, after the torrid atmosphere 
 of noon, that we even let it tear up the tent-stakes, and knock 
 the whole apparatus about our ears, w T ith a kind of indulgent 
 fondness, rather disposed to see something amusing in the flutter 
 among the half- dried linen on the thorn-bushes. This reckless 
 disregard of our personal property bore ample testimony to the 
 welcome greeting of the wind. 
 
 At one time, to-day, the sea assumed an aspect peculiarly 
 sombre. Unstirred by the wind, it lay smooth and unruffled as 
 an inland lake. The great evaporation enveloped it in a thin, 
 transparent vapour, its purple tinge contrasting strangely with the 
 extraordinary colour of the sea beneath, and, where they blended 
 in the distance, gave it the appearance of smoke from burning 
 sulphur. It seemed a vast cauldron of metal, fused but motionless. 
 
 About sunset, we tried whether a horse and a donkey could 
 
 1 '-And David went up from thence, and dwelt in strong holds at En- 
 gaddi." — 1 Samuel, xxiii. 29. 
 
216 THE WATER OF THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 swim in the sea without turning over. The result was that, 
 although the animals turned a little on one side, they did not lose 
 their balance. As Mr. Stephens tried his experiment earlier in 
 the season, and nearer the north end of the sea, his horse could 
 not have turned over from the greater density of the water there 
 than here. His animal may have been weaker, or, at the time, 
 more exhausted than ours. A muscular man floated nearly 
 breast-high without the least exertion. 
 
 Pliny says that some foolish, rich men of Rome had water from 
 this sea, conveyed to them to bathe in, under the impression that 
 it possessed medicinal qualities. Galen remarked on this that 
 they might have saved themselves the trouble, by dissolving, in 
 fresh water, as much salt as it could hold in solution ; to which 
 Reyland adds, that Galen was not aware that the water of the 
 Dead Sea held other things besides salt in solution. 
 
 We picked up a large piece of bitumen on the sea-shore to- 
 day. It was excessively hot to the touch. This combustible 
 mineral is so great a recipient of the solar rays, that it must soften 
 in the intense heat of summer. We gathered also some of the 
 blossoms and the green and dried fruits of the osher for preserva- 
 tion with the flowers collected in the descent of the Jordan, and 
 the various places we have visited on this sea. 
 
 The dried fruit, the product of last year, was extremely brittle, 
 and crushed with the slightest pressure. The green, half-formed 
 fruit of this year was soft and elastic as a puff-ball, and, like the 
 leaves and stem, yields a viscous, white, milky fluid when cut. 
 Dr. Robinson very aptly compared it to the milk-weed. This 
 viscous fluid the Arabs call leben-usher (osher-milk), and they 
 consider it a cure for barrenness. Dr. Anderson was enthusiastic 
 in his researches, and although he kept his regular watch, was ever, 
 when not on post, hammering at the rocks. He had already col- 
 lected many valuable specimens. 
 
 Through the night, a pleasant breeze from the west. Blowing 
 over the wilderness of Judea, it was unaccompanied with a nau- 
 seous smell. Towards morning, the wind hauled to the north 
 and freshened — strange that the weather should become warmer 
 
FIRING MINUTE-GUNS. 217 
 
 as the wind veered to the northern quarter ; but so it was. Sweep- 
 ing along the western shore, it brought the foetid odour of the 
 sulphureous marshes with it. The Arabs call this sea Bahr Lut 
 (Sea of Lot), or Birket Lut (Pool of Lot). 
 
 Saturday, April 29. Awakened at daylight by one of the 
 Arabs calling the rest to prayer. The summons but slightly 
 heeded. Soon after breakfast, sent the Fanny Skinner to sound 
 in a north and south line, between the peninsula and the western 
 shore. Wind fresh from N. W. Sent a detachment to explore 
 the ruins of Masada. Experienced some difficulty in getting the 
 boats through the surf. 
 
 Remained in camp to write a report of proceedings to the Hon. 
 Secretary of the Navy, and to answer the kind letters of H. B. 
 M. Consul at Jerusalem, and Mr. Chasseaud, U. S. Consul at 
 Beirut. Every thing quiet ; and, towards noon, as the wind sub- 
 sided, the sea assumed its sombre and peculiar hue. 
 
 At noon, fired out at sea, in honour of the illustrious dead, 
 twenty-one minute-guns from the heavy blunderbuss mounted on 
 the bow of the Fanny Mason. The reports reverberated loudly and 
 strangely amid the cavernous recesses of the lofty and barren 
 mountains. This sea is wondrous, in every sense of the word ; so 
 sudden are its changes, and so different the aspects it presents, as to 
 make it seem as if we were in a world of enchantment. We were 
 alternately upon the brink and the surface of a huge, and some- 
 times seething cauldron. Picked up a piece of scoriated lava. 
 
 At 1 P. M., Mr. Aulick returned. He reported a gradual de- 
 crease of soundings to thirteen fathoms, nearly up the slope to the 
 shallow basin of the southern sea. Everything favours the sup- 
 position that the guilty cities stood on the southern plain, between 
 Usdum and the mountains of Moab. The northern part must 
 have been always water, or the plain have sunk at the time of the 
 catastrophe. 
 
 Protected by our presence from the fear of robbers, some of the 
 
 Ta'amirah came in to harvest their few scanty patches of barley. 
 
 They cut the grain, with their swords for reaping-hooks, and threw 
 
 it upon the threshing-flooi, —a circular piece of hard, trampled 
 
 19 
 
218 ARAB HUMANITY TO ANIMALS. 
 
 ground, around which were driven three donkeys, abreast. It 
 was a slow and wasteful process. The little unmuzzled brutes 
 were, in their rounds, permitted to nip the upturned ears. We 
 had often noticed the humanity of this people towards the brute 
 creation. In a moment of excitement Sherif wounded a stork, 
 but seemed sincerely sorry for it afterwards. The Arab who 
 brought the wild boar pigs to sell, cut their throats rather than 
 turn them adrift, when they would have perished for want of food, 
 which they were too young to procure. These Arabs always 
 express great horror at anything like wanton cruelty towards ani- 
 mals. And yet 'Akil looked upon the woman whose husband he 
 had slain, without the drooping of an eyelid, or the visible relaxa- 
 tion of a muscle. It is for philosophers to account for this trait 
 of humanity towards animals, in a race proverbially reckless of 
 the lives of their fellow-creatures. 
 
 The small quantity of grain these people could spare, we pur- 
 chased for distribution at home. In the afternoon, mounted on 
 Sherif 's spirited horse, I went up to the fountain of Ain Jidy. It 
 is a clear, beautiful stream, issuing from the rock, skirted by the 
 cane and shadowed by the ntibk, four hundred feet up the moun- 
 tain. The view from it was magnificent, particularly towards 
 Usdum and the southern basin of the sea. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 FROM CAMP TO [THE CAPITAL OF MOAB. 
 
 Sunday, April 30. This morning, like the land we are in, we 
 enjoyed our Sabbath, and slept until the sun and flies compelled 
 us to get up. The atmosphere of the tent being oppressive, we 
 breakfasted outside in its shade. Some of us spent the forenoon 
 in the quiet recesses of the ravine, endeavouring to observe the 
 day. Thus far, all, with one exception, had enjoyed good health. 
 
EFFECTS UPON HEALTH. 219 
 
 but there were symptoms which caused me uneasiness. The 
 figure of each one had assumed a dropsical appearance. The 
 lean had become stout, and the stout almost corpulent; the pale 
 faces had become florid, and those which were florid, ruddy ; 
 moreover, the slightest scratch festered, and the bodies of many 
 of us were covered with small pustules. The men complained 
 bitterly of the irritation of their sores, whenever the acrid water 
 of the sea touched them. Still, all had good appetites, and I 
 hoped for the best. 1 There could be nothing pestilential in the 
 atmosphere of the sea. There is little verdure upon its shores, 
 and, by consequence, but little vegetable decomposition to render 
 the air impure : and the foetid smell we had frequently noticed, 
 doubtless proceeded from the sulphur-impregnated thermal 
 springs, which were not considered deleterious. Three times, it 
 is true, we had picked up dead birds, but they, doubtless, had 
 perished from exhaustion, and not from any malaria of the sea, 
 which is perfectly inodorous, and, more than any other, abounds 
 with saline exhalations, which, I believe, are considered whole- 
 some. Our Ta'amirah told us that, in pursuance of the plan he 
 had adopted with regard to the settlement of the Ghor, Ibrahim 
 Pasha sent three thousand Egyptians to the shores of this sea, 
 about ten years since, and that every one died within two months. 
 This is, no doubt, very much exaggerated. 
 
 There was, most probably, much mortality among the poor 
 wretches, forced from their fertile plains to this rugged and in- 
 hospitable shore ; but dejection of spirits, and scarcity of food, 
 must have been the great destroyers. 
 
 P. M., started for the eastern shore, leaving Sherif again in 
 charge, with directions to move the camp to Ain Turabeh, on 
 Wednesday. This was the day appointed to meet 'Akil, and I 
 felt sure that he would not fail us. 
 
 A light air from the south induced me to furl the awning 
 
 1 Wherever there is an evil there is usually its antidote near at hand ; 
 and, perhaps, the remedy for these cutaneous diseases is to be found in 
 the acrid juices of the osher, which grows here and upon the southern 
 shores of this sea. 
 
220 HEAT AND DESOLATION. 
 
 and set the sail to spare the men from labouring at the oars. A 
 light tapping of the ripples at the bow, and a faint line of foam 
 and bubbles at her side, were the only indications that the boat 
 was in motion. The Fanny Skinner was a mile astern, and all 
 around partook of the stillness of death. The weather was in- 
 tensely hot, and even the light air that urged us almost insensibly 
 onward had something oppressive in its flaws of heat. The sky 
 was unclouded, except by a few faint cirri in the north, sweeping 
 plume-like, as if the sun had consumed the clouds, and the light 
 wind had drifted their ashes. The glitter from the water, with its 
 multitude of reflectors, for each ripple was a mirror, contributed 
 much to our discomfort ; yet the water was not transparent, but 
 of the colour of diluted absinthe, or the prevailing tint of a Per- 
 sian opal. The sun, we felt, was glaring upon us, but the eye 
 dared not take cognizance, for the fierce blaze would have blighted 
 the powers of vision, as Semele was consumed by the unveiled 
 divinity of Jove. 
 
 The black chasms and rough peaks, embossed with grimness, 
 were around and above us, veiled in a transparent mist like visible 
 air, that made them seem unreal, — and, 1300 feet below, our 
 sounding-lead had struck upon the buried plain of Siddim, shroud- 
 ed in slime and salt. 
 
 While busied with such thoughts, my companions had yielded 
 to the oppressive drowsiness, and now lay before me in every 
 attitude of a sleep that had more of stupor in it than of repose. 
 In the awful aspect which this sea presented, when we first be- 
 held it, I seemed to read the inscription over the gate of Dante's 
 Inferno: — "Ye who enter here, leave hope behind." Since 
 then, habituated to mysterious appearances in a journey so replete 
 with them, and accustomed to scenes of deep and thrilling interest 
 at every step of our progress, those feelings of awe had been in- 
 sensibly lessened or hushed by deep interest in the investigations 
 we had pursued. But now, as I sat alone in my wakefulness, the 
 feeling of awe returned ; and, as I looked upon the sleepers, I felt 
 " the hair of my flesh stand up," as Eliaphaz the Themanite's did, 
 when " a spirit passed before his face ; " for, to my disturbed ima- 
 
PRESENTIMENT OF DISASTER. 221 
 
 gination, there was something fearful in the expression of their 
 inflamed and swollen visages. The fierce angel of disease seemed 
 hovering over them, and I read the forerunner of his presence in 
 their flushed and feverish sleep. Some, with their bodies bent and 
 arms dangling over the abandoned oars, their hands excoriated 
 with the acrid water, slept profoundly ; — others, with heads thrown 
 back, and lips, cracked and sore, with a scarlet flush on either 
 cheek, seemed overpowered by heat and weariness even in sleep ; 
 while some, upon whose faces shone the reflected light from the 
 w r ater, looked ghastly, and dozed with a nervous twitching of the 
 limbs, and now and then starting from their sleep, drank deeply 
 from a breaker and sunk back again to lethargy. The solitude, 
 the scene, my own thoughts, were too much ; I felt, as I sat thus, 
 steering the drowsily-moving boat, as if I were a Charon, ferrying, 
 not the souls, but the bodies of the departed and the damned, 
 over some infernal lake, and could endure it no longer ; but 
 breaking from my listlessness, ordered the sails to be furled and 
 the oars resumed — action seemed better than such unnatural 
 stupor. 
 
 Prudence urged us to proceed no farther, but to stop, before 
 some disaster overtook us; but the thought of leaving any part of 
 our work undone was too painful, and I resolved to persevere, 
 but to be as expeditious as possible without working the party too 
 hard. 
 
 At 4.10 P.M., reached " Point Costigan," north end of the 
 peninsula, and steered S. S. E. across the bay, to search for water 
 and for signals from 'Akil. The heat was still intense, rendered 
 less endurable by the bright glare from the white spicula? of the 
 peninsula, and the dazzling reflection from the surface of the sea 
 Sounded in twenty-four fathoms, hard bottom, about gun-shot 
 distance from the land. In a few minutes, saw an Arab on the 
 shore among the low canes and bushes, and shortly after several 
 others. Preparing for hostilities, yet in the hope of a friendly 
 reception, we pulled directly in and hailed them. To our great 
 delight one of them proved to be Jum'ah (Friday), sent by 'Akil, 
 who yesterday arrived at Kerak. We immediately landed, and 
 19* 
 
222 BATTLE BETWEEN ARABS. 
 
 bivouacked upon the beach, a short distance from a shallow stream 
 descending the Wady Beni Hamed. 
 
 'Akil, on leaving us at 'Ain el Feshkhah, endeavoured, accord- 
 ing to agreement, to find his way to the eastern shore and thence 
 to Kerak. On his way, he stopped with some of his friends, a 
 portion of the tribe of Beni Sukrs from Salt. In the night they 
 were unexpectedly attacked by a party of Beni 'Adwans. At 
 first, being much inferior in numbers, they retreated, 'Akil losing 
 his camel and all his baggage. Subsequently they were strongly 
 reinforced, and became assailants in their turn. The action lasted 
 several hours ; they had twelve wounded, including two of 'Akil's 
 followers, and twenty-two of the 'Adwans were reported to be 
 killed and wounded, among the former the son of the Sheikh. 
 'Akil's Nubian was twice wounded in the arm, once by a gun- 
 shot, and once by the thrust of a spear. The rifle of the hostile 
 young Sheikh was given to Sherif Musaid, nephew of Sherif 
 Hazaa, for his gallantry in the action. 
 
 We learned from Jum'ah that there were two Sheikhs or Go- 
 vernors in Kerak, a Christian one, who could muster 250 riflemen, 
 and a Muslim one, whose followers were mostly mounted, and 
 far more numerous ; — the former wholly subservient to the latter. 
 At 7.30 P. M., Sulieman, the son of Abd 'Allah, Christian 
 Sheikh of Kerak, with four followers, arrived with a welcome and 
 an invitation from his father to visit him in his mountain fortress, 
 seventeen miles distant, saying that he would have come himself 
 if certain of meeting us. They had been despatched at 'Akil's 
 instance at early daybreak, and from the mountains, on their way 
 down, saw us crossing the sea. An invitation was also received 
 from the Muslim Sheikh. I accepted it with a full sense of the 
 risk incurred ; but the whole party was so much debilitated by 
 the sirocco we had experienced on the south side of the penin- 
 sula, and by the subsequent heat, that it became absolutely neces- 
 sary to reinvigorate it at all hazards. I felt sure that Jum'ah 
 would carefully guard our boats in our absence, and therefore 
 sent to 'Akil, through whom alone I had resolved to hold trans- 
 actions with this people, for horses and mules for the party. He 
 
THE FELLAH IN TRIBES. 
 
 223 
 
 had sent an apology for not coming in person on account of his 
 wounded followers, and in consequence of all their horses being 
 foundered. 
 
 Wady Kerak is at the S. E. extremity of the bay. Between 
 it and us is the village of Mezra'a, and in the near vicinity of the 
 latter are the supposed ruins of Zoar. To-morrow we will con- 
 tinue the exploration of this deep and interesting bay. 
 
 Between the camp and the stream, and scattered on the plain, 
 are groves of acacia, and many osher trees as large as half-grown 
 apple trees, and with larger fruit than any we had seen. We 
 gathered some of the size of the largest lemon, but green, 
 soft, and pulpy ; emitting, like the branches, a viscous milky 
 fluid when cut, which the Arabs told us would be extremely 
 injurious to the eyes if it touched them. There was some of the 
 dried fruit too, as brittle as glass, and flying to pieces on the 
 slightest pressure. Within the last was a very small quantity of 
 a thin, silky fibre, which is used by the Arabs for gun-matches. 
 The rind is thinner, but very much in colour like a dried lemon, 
 and the dried fruit has the appearance of having spontaneously 
 bursted. 
 
 An Arab from Mezra'a brought us some detestably sour leban 
 and some milk, but of which few could endure the smell, caused 
 by the filthy goat-skins which contained them, and which, it 
 seems, are never washed. He also brought some flour made of 
 the dhom apple, dried and pulverized, which was very palatable. 
 
 The Sheikh of Mezra'a, with some of his people, also came in. 
 Together with the fellahin tribes at the south end of the sea, they 
 are generally denominated Ghaurariyeh. They are much darker, 
 and their hair more wiry and disposed to curl than any Arabs we 
 have seen. Their features as well as their complexion are more 
 of the African type, and they are short and spare built, with low 
 receding foreheads, and the expression of countenance is half 
 sinister and half idiotic. Their only garment is a tunic of brief 
 dimensions, open at the breast and confined round the waist by a 
 band or leathern belt. The Sheikh has rude sandals, fastened by 
 thongs; the rest are barefooted. The women are even more 
 
224 CHRISTIAN ARABS. 
 
 abject-looking than the men, and studiously conceal their faces. 
 They all, men and women, seem to bear impressed upon their 
 features, the curse of their incestuous origin. 
 
 Their village, Mezra'a, is on the plain about half an hour, or 
 one mile and a half distant. Their houses are mere hovels plas- 
 tered with mud. They cultivate the dhoura (millet), tobacco, 
 and some indigo, a specimen of which w r e procured. 
 
 The deputation from Kerak expressed great delight at beholding 
 fellow T -Christians upon the shores of this sea, and said that if they 
 had known of our first arrival on the western shore, they w r ould 
 have gone round and invited us over. It was a strange sight to 
 see these wild Arab Christians uniting themselves to us with such 
 heartfelt cordiality. It would be interesting to trace whether they 
 are some of the lost tribes subsequently converted to Christianity ; 
 or the descendants of Christians, w T ho, in the fastnesses of the 
 mountains, escaped the Muhammedan alternative of the Koran or 
 the sword ; or a small Christian remnant of the Crusades. At 
 all events, their gratification at meeting us w T as unfeigned and 
 warmly expressed. They felt that we would sympathize with 
 them in the persecutions to which they are subjected by their law- 
 less Muslim neighbours. They had, indeed, our warmest sym- 
 pathies, and our blood boiled as we listened to a recital of their 
 wrongs. We felt more than ever anxious to visit Kerak, and 
 judge for ourselves of their condition. Their mode of salutation 
 approaches nearer to our own than that of any other tribe we met ; 
 they shake hands, and then each kisses the one he had extended. 
 They had never seen a boat, which in the language of the coun- 
 try, is called "choctura," and supposing that ours must have 
 feet, examined them with great curiosity. They could not believe 
 that anything larger could be made to float. In the course of the 
 evening, one of the fellahin from Mezra'a, when he first beheld 
 them, stood for some time lost in contemplation, and then burst 
 forth in joyful shouts of recognition. He was an Egyptian by 
 birth, and stolen from his home when quite young, had forgotten 
 everything connected with his native country, until the sight of 
 our boats reminded him of having seen things resembling them ; 
 
ACTION OF THE WATER ON COPPER. 225 
 
 and the Nile, and the boats upon its surface, and the familiar 
 scenes of his childhood, rushed upon his memory. It was inter- 
 esting to see the dull and clouded intellect gradually lighten up 
 as the remembrance of the past broke in upon it ; yet it was sad, 
 for the glad smile of the Egyptian died away, and left a sorrow- 
 ing expression upon his features — for from the Nile, his dormant 
 affections had, perhaps, reverted to the hovel upon its banks — 
 and he thought of his mother and young barbarian playmates. 
 
 These Christian Arabs are of the tribe Beni Khallas (Sons of 
 the Invincible), a name inappropriate to their present condition. 
 Their features are fuller and more placid in expression, and they 
 seem more vigorous, manly, and intelligent than the Raschayideh 
 and Ta'amirah of the Judean shore. After dinner, partaken by 
 the light of the camp-fires, we set the watch and threw ourselves 
 upon the shelving beach, each one wrapping up his head to screen 
 it from the fresh wind. Our Christian Arabs kept watch and 
 ward with us through the night, for they had reason to know that 
 the Mezra'a people were dangerous neighbours. 
 
 Monday, May 1. A calm and warm but not unpleasant morn- 
 ing ; thermometer, 83°. Completed the topographical sketch of 
 the shore-lines of the bay, and verified the position of the mouth 
 of Wady Kerak, and sounded down the middle of the bay. 
 
 Overhauled the copper boat, which wore away rapidly in this 
 briny sea. Such was the action of the fluid upon the metal, that 
 the latter, as long as it w T as exposed to its immediate friction, was 
 as bright as burnished gold, but whenever it came in contact with 
 the air, it corroded immediately. 
 
 The stones on the beach were encrusted with salt, and looked 
 exactly as if whitewashed. 
 
 It was well that we despatched 'Akil in advance to the Arabian 
 tribes, for the Sheikh of Mezra'a told Jum'ah that, when he first 
 saw us coming, he hastened to collect his followers, with the de- 
 termination of attacking us, and only changed his purpose when 
 he heard him greet us as friends. It would have been a matter 
 of regret had they fired upon us ; for, although we would most 
 certainly have defeated them, there must have been blood shed, 
 
226 ANCIENT RUINS. 
 
 and it was my most earnest wish to accomplish the objects of the 
 expedition without injury to a human being. 
 
 P. M. Rode out upon the plain, with two Arabs on foot, to 
 look for the ruins of Zoar. Pursuing a S. E. direction, up the 
 peninsula, passed, first, some dhoura (millet) fields, the grain but 
 a few inches above the ground — many of the fields yet wet from 
 recent irrigation. Thence rode through many tangled tickets of 
 cane and tamarisk, with occasional nubk and osher trees, and 
 came, at length, upon an open space, with many large heaps of 
 stones in regular rows, as if they had once formed houses. They 
 were uncut, and had "never known iron;" but there were no 
 other vestiges of a building about them; — so I concluded that 
 they were the larger stones which had encumbered the soil, and 
 were gathered by the fellahin. 
 
 Proceeding a little more to the south, we came to many more 
 such mounds or heaps, and, among them, to the foundation of a 
 building of some size. It was in the form of a main building, 
 with a smaller one before or behind it ; the first being a quadran- 
 gular wall, and the other in detached pieces, like the pedestals of 
 columns. The stones were large, some of them one and a half 
 feet in diameter, uncut, but roughly hewn, and fitted on each 
 other with exactness, but without mortar. There were many 
 minute fragments of pottery scattered about on the soil ; and 
 among the rubbish I found an old hand-mortar, very much worn, 
 which I brought away. The ruined foundation bore the marks 
 of great antiquity ; and the site corresponds to the one assigned 
 by Irby and Mangles as that of Zoar. But I could see no co- 
 lumns and no other vestiges of ruins than what I have mentioned. 
 
 Returning, saw the horses and mules for which we had sent, 
 coming down the mountains, and waited for them in the plain. 
 They were accompanied by Muhammed, the son of Abd'el Kadir, 
 the Muslim Sheikh of the Kerakiyeh, and by Abd' Allah, the 
 Christian Sheikh of the Beni Khallas ; the latter residing in the 
 town of Kerak, the former living mostly in black tents, about half 
 a mile distant from it. 
 
 On our way to camp, Muhammed endeavoured to display 
 
AN ARAB LETTER. 227 
 
 his horsemanship ; but the animal, wearied by the rough mountain- 
 road he had travelled, fell to the ground, and his rider was com- 
 pelled to jump off to save himself. In mounting again, not find- 
 ing any thing more convenient, he arrogantly ordered one of the 
 fellahin to stoop, and, placing his foot upon the abject creature's 
 back, sprung upon his horse. 
 
 This Muhammed is about thirty years of age, short but 
 compactly built, with a glossy, very dark-mahogany skin, long, 
 coarse black hair, and a thick, black beard and moustache. His 
 eye, fiery but furtive, was never fixed in its gaze, but, rolling 
 restlessly from one object to another, seemed rather the glare of a 
 wild beast than the expression of a human eye. Altogether, we 
 thought that he had the most insolent and overbearing counten- 
 ance and manner we had ever seen. 
 
 Abd' Allah, the Christian Sheikh, about twenty years his senior, 
 was a very different person ; robust in frame, he was mild even 
 to meekness. In the bearing of the respective parties towards 
 each other, we could read a long series of oppression on one side 
 and submissive endurance on the other. 
 
 They brought me a letter from 'Akil, of which the following is 
 a literal translation : — 
 
 DIRECTION. 
 
 " By God's favour. May it reach Haditheh, and be delivered 
 to the hand of the Excellency of our Beloved. 
 
 "May God preserve him. Beduah, 8642." 
 
 INSIDE. 
 
 " To the Excellency of the most honourable, our dear friend — 
 May the Almighty God preserve him. 
 
 " We beg, first, to offer you our love and great desire to see 
 the light of your happy countenance. We beg, secondly, to say 
 that in the most happy and honourable time, we received your 
 letter containing your beautiful discourse. We thanked, on read- 
 ing it, the Almighty God that you are well, and ask him now, 
 also (who is the most fit to ask), that we may be permitted to 
 behold the light of your countenance in a fit and agreeable time. 
 
228 ARABS. 
 
 • " The animals which you have ordered will be brought down 
 to you by the Excellency of our brother Chief, Muhammed 
 Nujally, and the Chief Abd' Allah en Nahas ; and the men ne- 
 cessary to guard the boats will be supplied by the said Chiefs. 
 
 " The reason of our delay in coming to you was the weakness 
 and fatigue of our horses. The time will be, God willing, short 
 before we see you. 
 
 " This being all that is necessary, we beg you will offer our 
 compliments (peace) to all those who inquire after us. — From this 
 part, the Excellency of our respected brother, Sherif, sends you 
 his best compliments. May you be kept in peace. 
 
 " © Seal of 'Akil Aga el Hassee. 
 "Kerak, 28 Jamad Awah." 
 
 The boats excited much attention; and, to gratify both the 
 Christian and the Muslim Arabs, we launched one and pulled her 
 a short distance out and back, some of the Arabs being on board ; 
 but Muhammed, although he had been the loudest in expressions 
 of wonder and incredulity, declined to go with them ; and I was 
 disposed to think that he w T as a very coward after all. On re- 
 turning from the beach, they stuck plugs of onions into their nos- 
 trils, to counteract the malaria they had imbibed from the sea. 
 They call it "the sea accursed of God;" and, entertaining the 
 most awful fears respecting it, looked upon us as madmen for 
 remaining so long upon it. 
 
 Daring the forenoon, the thermometer ranged from 86° to 90°. 
 At sunset, it stood at 83°, and quite pleasant. Sky filled with 
 cumulus and stratus. A little after 8 P. M., we heard the song 
 sung by the tribes when about to meet friends or enemies ; in the 
 first instance, a song of welcome; in the last, a war-cry of defi- 
 ance. The wild coronach was borne upon the wind, long before 
 the party singing it were in sight ; but presently fourteen mounted 
 Arabs, headed by the brother of Muhammed, came proudly into 
 the camp. The camp consisted of two boats' awnings, stretched 
 over stakes, to screen us from the sun and wind. All carried a 
 long gun and a short carbine, the last slung over the shoulders, 
 
ARAB WAR-CRY. 229 
 
 except one Arab, a kinsman of the Sheikh, who bore a spear 
 eighteen feet long, with a large, round tuft of ostrich feathers just 
 below the spear-head. Reining up before us, they finished their 
 song, prior to dismounting or exchanging salutations. The war- 
 cry of the Arabs was the only true musical sound we heard among 
 them, although they frequently beguiled the tedious hours of a 
 march with what they termed a song. The following notes, by 
 Mr. Bedlow, will give some idea of their war-cry. 
 
 
 These few notes are uttered in a high, shrill voice, and with a 
 modulation or peculiarity bearing some affinity to the characteris- 
 tic Yoddle of Tyrolean music. The distance at which this 
 wild war-cry can be heard, is almost incredible. 
 
 After nightfall the wind sprang up fresh from the northward. 
 We made a lee by stretching one of the boat's awnings across, 
 and lying upon the beach with our heads towards it. For my- 
 self I could not sleep. The conduct of Muhammed, almost 
 insulting, filled me with distrust. He had come down with 
 about eight men, his brother with fourteen more, and by two 
 and three at a time they had been dropping in ever since, until, 
 at 9 P. M., there were upwards of forty around us; and, if 
 disposed to treachery, there might be many more concealed 
 within the thicket. It seemed as if Muhammed considered us as 
 already in his power, and it occurred to me at times, that it was 
 my duty, in order to save the lives for which I was responsible, 
 to depart at once ; but two considerations determined me not 
 only to remain, but, at all hazards, go to Kerak. The second 
 day after our arrival upon this sea, I had sent 'Akil to the Ara- 
 bian tribes to announce our coming, and to make arrangements 
 with them to supply us with provisions. He had, through great 
 peril, and at considerable loss, made his way along the whole 
 eastern coast, and as directed, announced the coming of a party 
 of Americans, people from another world, of whom they had 
 20 
 
230 
 
 HEAVY DEW. 
 
 never heard before. I therefore felt that to retire now would be 
 construed into flight, and the American name be ever after held 
 in contempt by this people, and all who might hereafter sojourn 
 among them. Moreover, to decline an invitation for which we 
 had made overtures through 'Akil, might hazard his safety. In 
 addition to these considerations, I felt satisfied that if not invigo- 
 rated by bracing air, even for one day, many of the party would 
 inevitably succumb ; and I preferred the risk of an encounter 
 with the Arabs to certain sickness upon the sea, with its result, 
 unaccomplished work. 
 
 Although the wind was high, too high to take observations of 
 Polaris, the night was sultry ; thermometer 81°, the dew so heavy 
 as to filter through the awning and drop upon our faces. This 
 is the second time we have experienced dew upon this sea, each 
 time with a hot wind from the north. It probably betokens some 
 atmospheric change. Then it was succeeded by a sirocco. We 
 shall see what to-morrow will bring forth. This is our fifteenth 
 night upon this sea. Towards morning the wind lulled, and the 
 sky became clouded and the w T eather cool. 
 
 Tuesday, May 2. Cloudy. Called all hands at 4 A. M., and 
 set off at 5.30, after a hurried and meagre breakfast. The sailors 
 were mounted on most unpromising looking cradles, running 
 lengthwise along the backs of their mules, while our horses were 
 but little better caparisoned. At his earnest solicitation, I left 
 behind Henry Loveland, seaman, who was apparently one of the 
 least affected by the previous heat. 1 To him and our Bedawin 
 friend Jum'ah, who had several Arabs with him, I gave strict 
 charge of the boats and all our effects. 
 
 We were fourteen in number, besides the interpreter and cook. 
 The first I believed courageous; the latter I knew to be a 
 coward. Our escort consisted of twelve mounted Arabs and 
 eight footmen, the rest having gone in advance. 
 
 We struck directly across the plain forming the base or root of 
 the peninsula, towards the lofty ragged cliffs which overlook it 
 
 1 This man eventually suffered more from sickness, and his life was 
 longer in jeopardy, than any of the rest. 
 
EXCURSION INLAND. 231 
 
 from the east, and passed many nubk and osher trees, and fields 
 of dried stalks, some resembling those of the maize and others 
 the sugar-cane. Crossing the stream which flows down the Wady 
 Beni Hamad, and a number of patches of dhoura (millet), artifi- 
 cially irrigated, we passed close under a ruin on an elevated cliff, 
 which overlooks the plain of Zoar. It seemed to be the remains 
 of a fortalice not more ancient than the times of the Crusades. 
 We would have given much to explore the plain and visit the 
 ruin above, but circumstances forbade it. It was essential to 
 inhale the mountain air as soon as possible, and equally important 
 that we should keep together to guard against treachery. We 
 resolved to make an exploration on our return, if satisfied that 
 we could do so with safety. 
 
 We thus far passed in succession the loose tertiaries of the 
 peninsula ; some ferruginous and friable sandstone, a yellow and 
 shaly limestone, clay-slate, and argillaceous marls. 
 
 From Wady Beni Hamad we skirted along the base of the cliffs 
 for about two miles in a south direction, across the neck of the 
 peninsula towards the S. E. inlet of the sea, and crossing the bed, 
 turned up Wady Kerak, the steepest and most difficult path, with 
 the wildest and grandest scenery we had ever beheld. On one 
 side was a deep and yawning chasm, which made the head dizzy 
 to look into ; on the other beetling crags, blackened by the tem- 
 pests of ages, in shape exactly resembling the waves of a mighty 
 ocean, which at the moment of overleaping some lofty barrier, 
 were suddt nly changed to stone, retaining even in transformation, 
 their dark and angry hue. In most places the naked rock dipped 
 down abruptly into the deep and gloomy chasm, and it only 
 required a torrent to come tumbling headlong over the rude frag- 
 ments fallen from the cliffs above to complete the sublimity of the 
 scene. Nor was it wanting. 
 
 When we first started, it was so cloudy that we congratulated 
 ourselves upon the prospect of a cool- and pleasant instead of a 
 sultry ride. While passing under the ruin, it began to rain lightly 
 but steadily. Before we had half ascended the pass, however, 
 there came a shout of thunder from the dense cloud which had 
 
232 A THUNDER STORM. 
 
 gathered at the summit of the gorge, followed by a. rain, compared 
 to which, the gentle showers of our more favoured clime are as 
 dew-drops to the overflowing cistern. Except the slight shower 
 at the Pilgrim's Ford, this was the first since we landed in Syria. 
 The black and threatening cloud soon enveloped the mountain- 
 tops, the lightning playing across it in incessant flashes, while the 
 loud thunder reverberated from side to side of the appalling 
 chasm. Between the peals we soon heard a roaring and con- 
 tinuous sound. It was the torrent from the rain-cloud, sweeping 
 in a long line of foam down the steep declivity,. bearing along 
 huge fragments of rocks, which, striking against each other, 
 sounded like mimic thunder. In one spot, where the torrent 
 made its maddest leap, a single palm-tree, bent by the blast, 
 waved its branches wildly above the gorge, seeming to the ima- 
 gination like the genius of the place bewailing the devastation of 
 its favoured haunt. During the whole of this storm, our rugged 
 path led along the face of a steep precipice looking into the dark 
 grandeur of the chasm beneath. It was a wild, a terrific, but a 
 glorious sight ! 
 
 "It more stirs the blood 
 To rouse a lion than to start a hare j" 
 
 and I rejoiced to witness this elemental strife amid these lofty 
 mountains. How much more exciting and sublime than anything 
 a monotonous plain presents ! I have skirted the base of Etna, 
 clothed in the luxuriant verdure of a favoured clime, and looked 
 upon its .summit, wreathed in a mantle of perpetual snow, while 
 the smoke from its crater gracefully curled above it. I have 
 clambered the cone of Vesuvius by nightfall, and looked over its 
 brink into the fiery cauldron beneath ; and in a thunder-storm, I 
 once launched a boat at the foot of Niagara, and rocking in the 
 foam of its cataract, marked with delight the myriads of gems, 
 of every hue and radiance, reflected in the misty vapour at each 
 successive flash ; but I never beheld a scene in sublimity equal to 
 the present one. 
 
 A meandering river and a fertile plain, with their accompani- 
 ments, luxuriant foliage and fragrant odours, interspersed with 
 
SUBLIMITY OF THE SCENE. 233 
 
 scenes of domestic peace, captivate the eye and delight the senses. 
 But the boundless ocean or sky-piercing mountains are necessary 
 to the grandeur of sublimity ; to embody, as it were, to the mind, 
 and enable it to realize the presence of a great Being — great in 
 all things, — but seeming to us most potent when either the "live 
 thunder" leaps from cliff to cliff, or "He rides upon the wings 
 of the mighty wind" across the illimitable waste. 
 
 The storm gradually subsided ; the cloud which had enveloped 
 the mountain-tops and spread itself far down the chasm, gathered 
 its misty folds and was swept by degrees over the crest towards 
 the desert of Arabia ; — to refresh, perchance, the arid plains from 
 its yet copious store. 
 
 Bending a little from the ridge to the south, we passed a small 
 stream, trickling down in a N. E. course towards the ravine. 
 Like the torrent, the stream was doubtless the creation of the 
 shower. The general impression that there is a perpetual stream 
 down the Wady Kerak, is an erroneous one. The Kerakiyeh tell 
 us that it has only water in the rainy season, and for a short period, 
 at other times, after storms like the one which has just passed 
 over. When we crossed the foot of the ravine, there was no 
 water in it ; but quite a considerable stream in the Wady Beni 
 Hamad, whence the plain around Mezra'a is irrigated. Except 
 the lone palm, we had not seen a tree or shrub since we turned 
 up the side of the ravine ; but all along our zigzag path, the 
 wildest rocks, bare, black, and contorted, presented themselves in 
 detached fragments, and in wonderous strata, — mountain-sides 
 tumbled down, perpendicular crags, and deep chasms. 
 
 While we were passing along the edge of a sheer precipice, the 
 weather partly cleared up, and gave us a terrific view down the 
 ravine ; it pained the eye to look into its dizzy depths. 
 
 At 9.45, stopped to rest at a small spring of pure water, which 
 gushed out of a hill-side. The elements were not yet entirely 
 hushed, the wind sweeping down the ravine in occasional gusts. 
 Here the Kerakiyeh amused themselves by firing at a mark. 
 Approaching to pistol-shot distance, and taking rest with their 
 long guns, they rarely hit the object. Their powder was so in- 
 20 '•' 
 
234 RUGGED SCENERY. 
 
 different, that one of our sailors contemptuously remarked that he 
 could run a mile between the flash and the report. They were 
 perfectly astonished at the execution of our rifle. 
 
 Starting again, the road led upon a wide terrace over the val- 
 ley ; and was almost blocked up by huge fragments, severed from 
 the cliffs above, many of them, also, lying in every possible posi- 
 tion in the valley beneath. Several of these blocks, and many 
 places in the mountain-side, were hollowed out, sufficient in some 
 places to shelter many persons. These old limestone-rocks are 
 w r orn into caverns, arches, and the resemblance , of houses ; an 
 isolated block was exactly like a thatched, moss-grown cottage. 
 One of these may be the cave where Lot and his two daughters 
 dwelt. About two-thirds up, we saw some of the retem, or broom 
 plant, 1 many purple hollyhocks, and, shortly after, some olean- 
 ders. The last, wdrich were in full bloom high up the Jordan, 
 and in the plain below, were in this lofty region just beginning to 
 bloom. We saw some partridges, hawks, and many doves; also 
 much of the scarlet anemone, and a blue flower resembling the 
 convolvulus. 
 
 The sides and bottom of the ravine at length betokened some 
 slight cultivation ; here and there was a small patch of wheat, 
 and higher up there were a few olive-trees. Gradually these 
 appearances became more frequent; the patches of wheat were 
 larger, and the olive in occasional groves ; sometimes, too, there 
 was a fig-tree, its green more refreshing to the eye than the tawny 
 hue of the olive. When w T e thought thatw'e were upon the town, 
 we found thatw r e had yet a long, steep hill to clamber up. Here 
 we came to a fork ; the main bed of the ravine coming down from 
 the east, and another, broad and steep, from the south-east, with 
 the walled town of Kerak, upon the crown of the hill, overlook- 
 ing both. We skirted the last ravine, leaving on the left a walled- 
 in fountain and luxuriant olive-groves, and continued ascending, 
 for half an hour ; an extensive pile of ruins in sight at the S. W. 
 
 1 This plant, elsewhere a bush, is here quite large ; and it is supposed 
 that it was under a retem, instead of a juniper-tree, that Isaiah took shel- 
 ter in the desert. 
 
ENTRANCE INTO KERAK. 235 
 
 extremity of the town, and a majestic quadrangular tower at the 
 N. W. angle of its wall. Looking back, our cavalcade presented 
 a singular sight, winding up the steep and sinuous path. After 
 leaving the peninsula, and turning up the precipitous path along 
 the Wady Kerak, we met with fossiliferous limestone, and the 
 rock continued calcareous all the way to Kerak. 
 
 About an hour after noon, came upon the brow of the hill 
 (3000 feet above the Dead Sea) at the north-east angle of the 
 town. Instead of a richly cultivated country, there was before 
 us a high, rolling plain, the grass withered, and the grain blighted 
 by the sirocco and the locust. Turning to the north, we passed 
 along the wall, then under the tower, built of flesh-coloured, con- 
 solidated limestone, and along the face of the western wall for 
 about 150 yards, when, turning abruptly, we entered an arch cut 
 through the rock, about thirty feet high and twelve w T ide. Over 
 the gateway was a partly effaced Arabic inscription, recording the 
 building, or repair, of the walls. The passage had two turns, 
 and was about eighty feet long. From it, we emerged into the 
 town, — a collection of stone huts, built without mortar. They 
 are from seven to eight feet high ; the ground-floors about six 
 feet below, and the flat, mud-roofs mostly about two feet above, 
 the streets ; but in many places there were short cuts, from street 
 to street, across the roofs of the houses. The people were assem- 
 bled on the dirt-heaps and mud-roofs to see us pass. We were 
 escorted to the council-house, which is also the Christian school- 
 room, the same in which Irby and Mangles, the only Franks (who, 
 as Franks), had preceded us since the Crusades, were lodged 
 thirty years ago. Below, was a work-room, and ours was a room 
 for all purposes. Opposite, was a Christian church under con- 
 struction. Its walls, now about twelve feet high, measured seventy- 
 four by forty feet, and there were pedestals laid for six pillars. 
 
 Our room had nothing whatever, except the bare stone floor 
 beneath ; the rafters supporting the mud roof above ; two win- 
 dows without glass or shutters, and a crazy door without a fasten- 
 ing. Assigning one side to the men, and taking the adjoining 
 one for ourselves, we left the other two for the Arabs, who flocked 
 
236 DESCRIPTION OF KERAK. 
 
 in crowds to look upon us. From some cause they did not furnish 
 a sheep, although there were hundreds in the vicinity. 
 
 Through the exertions of the priest and Abd' Allah, the Chris- 
 tian Sheikh, we procured some eggs, and after a scanty breakfast 
 and a hard ride made a meagre dinner. 
 
 Determined, at all hazards, to see the place, we went out by 
 turns. We found but one shop, and the only articles for sale were 
 thin cakes of dried and pressed apricots, and English muslin ! 
 
 The houses, or rather huts, without windows and without 
 chimneys, were blackened inside by smoke ; and the women and 
 children were squalid and filthy. Kerak contains a population of 
 about 300 families, three-fourths Christian. By paying an annual 
 tribute, and submitting to occasional exactions, the latter live 
 amicably with the powerful tribe of Kerakiyeh, whose encamp- 
 ment is a short distance without the walls. The latter are so 
 averse to houses, that some, then on a visit to the town, had 
 pitched their tents in the yards of vacant dwellings. 
 
 The Muslim inhabitants are wild-looking savages, but the Chris- 
 tians have a milder expression. The males mostly wear sheep- 
 skin coats ; the women, dark-coloured gowns ; the Christian 
 females did not conceal their faces, which were tattooed like the 
 South-Sea islanders. The priest, in his black turban and subdued 
 countenance, acted as our cicerone. He took us to his little 
 church, a low, dark, vaulted room, containing a picture of St. 
 George fighting the Dragon ; two half columns of red granite 
 from the ruins of the castle, and a well of cool water in the centre. 
 
 The castle, partly cut out of, and partly built upon, the mountain- 
 top, presents the remains of a magnificent structure ; its citadel 
 cut off from the town by a ditch-ravine. It seems to be Saracenic, 
 although in various parts it has both the pointed Gothic and the 
 rounded Roman arch. A steep glacis-wall skirts the whole. 
 The walls, now partly standing, are composed of heavy, well-cut 
 stones ; and there are seven arched store-houses one above the 
 other, with narrow slits for defence. The part used as the chapel 
 was evidently built in the times of the crusades ; and the east end, 
 where the altar stood, was least demolished ; for these buildings 
 
REMAINS OF THE CASTLE 
 
 237 
 
 have been devastated by the hand of man. Maundrell has re- 
 marked that in all the ruined churches he saw, the part appropri- 
 ated to the altar was ever in the best state of preservation ; — which 
 he is at a loss whether to ascribe to bribery on the part of the 
 Christians, to a lingering reverence in the minds of the Turks, or 
 to miraculous interposition. Against the walls were pilasters and 
 parts of columns with sculptured ornaments, and upon the ceiling 
 were traces of fresco painting, among them one of a female saint. 
 In one place, the pavement had been dug up by the present 
 Christian inhabitants of Kerak for paving-slabs for their new 
 church. The vast extent of this magnificent castle filled us with 
 astonishment. It has five gates and seven wells and cisterns, and 
 the whole summit is perforated by subterranean passages. From 
 the narrow embrasures of the vaulted chambers we looked down 
 into the ravine, green with fields of grain and grass, and the shrub- 
 bery of oleanders, and upon part of the sea in the distance. 
 
 We also visited the structure at the N. W. angle, under which 
 we had passed before entering the arched gateway of the town. 
 It seemed, also, to be Saracenic, w T ith the remains of a handsome 
 cornice. 
 
 Returning, we passed through the burial-ground, each grave 
 indicated by a double line of rude, unsculptured stones. 
 
 We procured here some of the wheat, which, it is said, retains 
 the prolific quality ascribed to it in the Bible. We saw and 
 heard nothing of the immense grapes, " like those brought back 
 by the Hebrew spies," spoken of by Laborde. The harvests had 
 been swept, the last seven years, by the Tocusts and the sirocco ; 
 the last occurring two or three times a month. 
 
 P. M., held a long conversation with 'Akil as to the possibility 
 of proceeding, by land, to Wady es Safieh, and its luxuriant 
 delta, at the S. E. extremity of the sea. He thought it impracti- 
 cable. He said that the southern tribes were in a great state of 
 excitement, and were all coming up ; while those along the coast 
 were gathering together, and that a general outbreak might be 
 expected ;— the Beni 'Adwans and Beni Stikrs having already 
 begun hostilities. He could assign no other reason for this than 
 
238 PROBABLE DESIGNS. 
 
 that the grain would soon be gathered by the fellahin, and the 
 Bedawin were preparing to sweep it off, each tribe from a district 
 remote from its own. 
 
 In some respects 'Akil was mysterious ; and, at first, I could 
 not comprehend the hints he threw out. His object seemed to 
 be to ascertain whether, under any circumstances, we would aid 
 an association of the tribes in an avowed object. I would not 
 press him for an explanation, but merely told him that, if he had 
 been captured and detained while coming round in our service, 
 we would have felt it our duty to leave every thing else and 
 hasten to his assistance ; that I would endeavour to have him re- 
 munerated for what he had lost while acting for us ; but we could 
 take no part in their petty wars. I half suspected that this barba- 
 rian, the most winning and graceful one we had ever seen, gene- 
 rous, brave, and universally loved or feared, contemplated a 
 union of the tribes for the purpose of throwing off the thraldom, 
 here almost nominal, of the Turkish yoke, and establishing a 
 sovereignty for himself. Exceedingly affable to all, he was more 
 reserved and taciturn than his noisy countrymen, and was often 
 absorbed in thought. Having once reaped profit from rebellion, 
 he might then have been weighing the chances of a bolder specu- 
 lation. He could not rely much on our party, but might hope 
 that if we were involved our country would sustain us. He little 
 knew how severely, and how justly, too, we should be censured 
 at home if we became voluntarily embroiled either with the tribes 
 or the Turkish government. If he had attempted a rebellion, he 
 would have assuredly failed. The elements are too discordant. 
 The antipathies between the highland Gael and the southron, of 
 the Scottish border, were not more inveterate than the hostile 
 feeling existing between many of the tribes. With some it is the 
 feud of blood, transmitted from generation to generation with in- 
 creasing rancour. Yet their God is gold, and fifty well-armed, 
 resolute Franks, with a large sum of money, could revolutionize 
 the whole country. The presence of 'Akil was of great service 
 to us ; and but for him we should have come in collision with 
 this rude people. 
 
ARAB DISCONTENT. 239 
 
 The Christians were as kind and obliging as the Muslims were 
 insolent. In order, as he told me, to secure the good behaviour 
 of the Kerakiyeh, 'Akil brought with him the young prince of the 
 Beni Sftkrs, a powerful tribe, of whom even these fierce Arabs 
 stood in awe. The Beni Siikr wore his hair in ringlets, like a 
 girl ; but we were told that he behaved gallantly in the fight. 
 
 To avoid another encounter with the Beni 'Adwans, on his 
 return, 'Akil purposed providing his small party with sufficient 
 flour and water for five or six days' subsistence, and to strike 
 into the desert, in a direct east course, for a ruined khan, on the 
 Great Hadj, or pilgrim route from Damascus to Mecca. Thence 
 he would proceed north, still keeping east of the Jordan, until he 
 reached the vicinity of the Sea of Galilee. 
 
 It being absolutely impossible to ascend the Jordan with the 
 boats, I gave 'Akil a note for Mr. Weiseman, at Tiberias, direct- 
 ing the trucks, &c, we had left in his charge, to be sent to Acre. 
 
 Our trip here exhibited the Arab character in a new light. 
 From the first, the manner of Muhammed had been imperious 
 and insolent ; and his father, whom he seemed to rule, had nei- 
 ther invited us to his tents nor contributed, in the slightest degree, 
 to our comfort. The reason was because we did not make them 
 a large present. According to the arrangement with 'Akil, he 
 was to pay for all that we might require ; and I held to the course 
 we had heretofore pursued, of making no presents, except for 
 kindness or for services rendered. Muhammed, growling, said 
 that he wanted cloaks, a double-barrelled gun, a watch, &c, 
 that other Franks, coming up from Egypt, gave them. — Where 
 did we come from, thus out of the sea ? For the whole day the 
 room had been crowded ; the dooiway, sometimes, blocked up. 
 It seemed to be regarded by them in the light of a menagerie. 
 
 When, at length, they left us to ourselves, for the first time, in 
 twenty-three days, we lay down beneath a roof, having first en- 
 joyed the unwonted luxury of a draught of sweet milk. Placing 
 a board against the door, that its fall might rouse us at an at- 
 tempted entrance, we lay down with our arms in our hands, with 
 a feeling of uncertainty as to what the morrow might bring forth ; 
 
240 CHRISTIANS OF KERAK. 
 
 for although 'Akll was there, he had but four followers, one of 
 them wounded ; whereas the Kerakiyeh could muster 700 fighting 
 men. Our belief was, that although the Christians might not 
 dare to side with us, yet, so far from acting in combination 
 against, they would give us timely warning. At all hazards, we 
 wished to impress upon these people that we would do nothing 
 which could be construed into the appearance, even, of purchas- 
 ing forbearance. Were we private travellers, the case would be 
 different; but the time has long past when, even through its 
 meanest representative, our government will consent to pay for 
 forbearance from any quarter. 
 
 In the course of a long conversation, to-night, Abd' Allah gave 
 us a history of the condition and prospects of the Christians of 
 Kerak. He said that there were from 900 to 1000 Christians 
 here, comprising three-fourths of the population. They could 
 muster a little over 200 fighting men ; but are kept in subjection 
 by the Muslim Arabs, living mostly in tents, without the town. 
 He stated that they are, in every manner, imposed upon. If a 
 Muslim comes to the town, instead of going to the house of an- 
 other Muslim, he quarters himself upon a Christian, and appro- 
 priates the best of every thing : that Christian families have been 
 two days at a time without food — all that they had being con- 
 sumed by their self-invited guests. If a Muslim sheikh buys a 
 horse for so many sheep, he makes the Christians contribute until 
 the number be made up. Their property, he said, is seized at 
 will, without there being any one to whom to appeal ; and re- 
 monstrance, on their part, only makes it worse. 
 
 Already a great many have been driven away ; poverty alone 
 keeping the remainder. They have commenced building a 
 church, in the hope of keeping all together, and as a safe place 
 of refuge for their wives and children, in times of trouble ; but 
 the locusts and the sirocco have for the last seven years blasted 
 the fields, and nearly all spared by them has been swept by the 
 Muslims. They gave me the following appeal to the Christians 
 in our more happy land, which I promised to make known. The 
 following is a literal translation : — 
 
AN APPEAL FROM KERAK. 241 
 
 " By God's favour! 
 
 " May it, God willing ! reach America, and be presented to 
 our Christian brothers, — whose happiness may the Almighty God 
 preserve ! Amen ! 
 
 " 8642. Beduah. 
 
 " We are, in Kerak, a few very poor Christians, and are build- 
 ing a church. 
 
 " We beg your excellency to help us in this undertaking, for 
 we are very weak. 
 
 " The land has been unproductive, and visited by the locusts, 
 for the last seven years. 
 
 " The church is delayed in not being accomplished, for want 
 of funds, for we are a few Christians, surrounded by Muslims. 
 
 " This being all that is necessary to write to you, Christian 
 brothers of America, we need say no more. 
 
 <c The trustees in your bounty, 
 
 " Abd' Allah en Nahas, Sheikh, 
 " Yakob en Nahas, Sheikh's brother. 
 "Kerak, Jamad Awah, 1264." 
 
 Wednesday, May 3. It was exceedingly cold last night, the 
 north wind whistling through the casement with a familiar sound 
 of home. We all concurred in the opinion, that for comfort, the 
 sea-beach would have been a preferable couch, the fleas having 
 tormented us through the night. Notwithstanding our disturbed 
 slumbers, however, we did not feel as debilitated as heretofore on 
 rising from sounder sleep. The exercise of riding and the variety 
 of scenery through which we yesterday passed, were of service, 
 and the air was much cooler and more invigorating than below. 
 
 We rose early, and breakfasted on eggs and rice. Shortly 
 after, Muhammed came in, very surly; I refused to converse with 
 him, but referred him to 'Akil, whom I had commissioned to pro- 
 cure the horses and make the necessary purchases for us. We 
 would have liked to remain another day for the benefit of the 
 mountain air and to make some examination of the neighbour- 
 21 
 
242 DEPARTURE FROM KERAK. 
 
 hood ; but we were unanimously of opinion that it would be 
 unsafe, the prospect of difficulty with this insolent people increas- 
 ing with the lapse of every hour. JVhile we made preparations 
 for our departure in the room above, the Arabs were in consultation 
 beneath the window, Muhammed and several of his tribe gesticu- 
 lating violently. But 'Akll and the Beni Sukr prince were there, 
 and we knew that they would stand by us. After much difficulty, 
 our horses were procured. As we were about starting, Muham- 
 med again demanded a backshish, which was refused. He then 
 said that he would not go down with us, and sneeringly asked 
 what we should do if we found one hundred men in our path. 
 We replied that we would take care of ourselves. I longed to 
 seize him and carry him with us by force as a hostage, but he was 
 surrounded by too many armed and scowling Arabs. 
 
 We started, soon after sunrise, in battle array, our carbines un- 
 slung, and everything ready for immediate use. The Christian 
 Sheikh, the kind old man, although he made enemies by doing 
 so, accompanied us, and three or four footmen journeyed along, 
 without absolutely mingling with us. Muhammed, almost furious, 
 remained behind. 
 
 I had noted the ground well the day before, and knew that 
 there was no place above the plain where an attack could be 
 advantageously made. My greatest fear, concurred in by the 
 Christian Sheikh, was, that any one lagging behind would be cut 
 off. Giving to Mr. Dale, therefore, who ably seconded me, the 
 charge of the front, I kept with the rear. We had scarce left the 
 town a mile, before Muhammed, black and surly, with some 
 horsemen, overtook us. I was never more delighted in my life, 
 for we had now the game in our own hands. Instantly detaching 
 an officer and one of our most trusty men, I directed them to keep 
 by him without regard to his companions, and to shoot him at the 
 first sign of flight or treachery. 
 
 It was some time before Muhammed realized that he was a 
 prisoner ; but observing that whether he rode ahead or tarried be- 
 hind, he had ever the same companions, and that if he stopped, 
 the march was arrested, and the whole party stopped also, the 
 
PRECAUTION AGAINST TREACHERY. 243 
 
 truth flashed upon him ; and from being insolent and overbearing, 
 he became first respectful and then submissive. 
 
 At 10.15, came in sight of the sea, its surface covered by a 
 thin mist, the garment in which it is ever wreathed during the 
 heat of the day. The weather became warmer and w r armer as 
 we descended, — the torrent bed of the ravine ( Wady Kerak) per- 
 fectly dry. 
 
 As we approached the plain, I placed myself beside Muham- 
 med to watch him more narrowly. By this time, all but two or 
 three of his followers had ridden ahead and left us. When he 
 first joined us he had demanded a watch, then a double-barrelled 
 gun, and a number of articles in succession ; but w 7 hen he saw 
 that we held him as a hostage for the good behaviour of his tribe, 
 he changed his tone. About an hour before reaching the shore, 
 we stopped fifteen minutes to breathe, the horses. When we were 
 about to remount, he had become so much humbled, that per- 
 ceiving my saddle-girth loose, he hastened forward and drew it 
 tight for me. In the morning he would have cut my throat rather 
 than have performed a menial office. 
 
 At 1.30, issuing from the thicket upon the beach, w r e were glad- 
 dened with the sight of our boats, lying as secure as we had left 
 them. We launched thern and made preparations for immediate 
 departure. At the instance of Abd' Allah, the Christian Sheikh, 
 I wrote to 'Akll by Friday, requesting him to protect the Christian 
 Arabs against the Kerakiyeh ; and in order to enlist the Beni 
 Sukr Prince in the same cause, I sent him a richly ornamented aba. 
 
 Burckhardt, and Irby and Mangles, were kindly received in 
 Kerak ; but the first spoke the language, and came disguised as 
 an x4rab, and the two last had a letter of introduction to the Mus- 
 lim Sheikh of Kerak, given to them by the Sheikh of Hebron, 
 without which, they intimated that their reception would have 
 been a cold one. They had to pay down four hundred piastres 
 (equal to 1600 now), and on the second day of their journey, 
 while yet under the protection of the Sheikh of Kerak, one hun- 
 dred and fifty (equal to 600 piastres) more were exacted. From 
 Burckhardt, who had assumed the garb of a poor man, all was 
 
244 AGAIN ON THE WATER. 
 
 extorted that it was thought he could afford to pay. Seetzen 
 was robbed by some of the tribe before he entered Kerak. 
 
 Everything being prepared, I had taken leave of Abel' Allah, 
 after making him a present, and was about stepping into the boat 
 without saying anything to Muhammed, when he sprang forward, 
 and, taking my hand, begged for some gun-caps. But I refused ; 
 for had they been given, perhaps the first use made of them would 
 have been against a Christian. Getting into the boat, therefore, we 
 shoved off, and left him standing upon the shore. Thus far, these 
 were the only Arabs from whom we had experienced rudeness. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 CRUISE ALONG THE ARABIAN SHORE. 
 
 With a light breeze from the south, we steered down the bay, 
 along the coast, towards Wady Mojeb, the river Arnon of the Old 
 Testament, upon which, Aroer, one of the principal cities of the 
 Moabites, was situated. Eight miles north from it is a mountain, 
 supposed to be Mount Nebo, from the summit of which Moses 
 viewed the promised land, and in a cave under it, Josephus and 
 Epiphanius state that the ark of the covenant, with the tabernacle 
 and the altar of incense, were concealed by the prophet Jeremiah, 
 shortly before the destruction of Jerusalem. The shore presented 
 the barren aspect of lofty perpendicular cliffs of red sandstone, 
 and here and there a ravine with patches of cane, indicating 
 that water was, or had recently been, there. 
 
 The mountains of red sandstone were beautifully variegated 
 with yellow and capped by high cliffs of white in the background. 
 Near sunset, stopped for the night in a beautiful cove on the south 
 side of the delta, through which, its own formation, the Arnon 
 flows to the sea. The stream, now eighty- two feet wide and four 
 deep, runs through a chasm ninety-seven feet wide, formed by 
 
RAVINE OF THE ARNON. 245 
 
 high perpendicular cliffs of red, brown, and yellow sandstone, 
 mixed red and yellow on the southern side, and on the north, a 
 soft, rich red, — all worn by the winter rains into the most fan- 
 tastic forms, not unlike Egyptian architecture. It was difficult to 
 realize that some were not the work of art. 
 
 The chasm runs up in a direct line for 150 yards, then turns, 
 with a slow and graceful curve, to the south-east. In the deepest 
 part, within the chasm, the river did not at that time exceed four 
 feet in depth ; but after passing through the delta, narrowing in 
 its course, it is ten feet deep, but quite narrow at the mouth. We 
 saw here tracks of camels, and marks of an Arab encampment. 
 There must be some passage down the ravine, the sides of which 
 seemed so precipitous. There were castor-beans, tamarisks, and 
 canes, along the course of the stream from the chasm to the sea. 
 Walked and waded up some distance, and found the passage of 
 the same uniform width, turning every 150 or 200 yards gradually 
 to the south-east. Observed a dead gazelle, and saw the tracks 
 of gazelles and of wild beasts, but could only identify those of the 
 tiger. The report of a gun, which we fired, reverberating like 
 loud and long-continued peals of thunder, startled many birds. 
 The highest summit of the inner cliffs, north of the chasm, were 
 yellow limestone. Saw a large brown vulture, its beak strong 
 with two denticulations. After bathing in the cool, refreshing 
 stream, and supping on rice and tea, we spread our awnings upon 
 the beach, and slept soundly under the bright stars. At mid- 
 night, thermometer 78°, wind N. W., and very cold. George Over- 
 stock, one of the seamen, had a chill. We feared that the fever 
 which has heretofore attacked all who ventured upon this sea was 
 about to make its appearance. It was to a city, " in the border of 
 Anion" to which Balak, King of the Moabites, came to meet 
 Balaam. From the Arnon to the Jabbok, " which is the border 
 of the children of Ammon," was the land given to the tribes of 
 Reuben and Gad. 
 
 Thursday, May 4. A warm, but pleasant morning. Over- 
 stock better, but I feared the recurrence of his chill. Started 
 early, after filling the water-breakers. As we were shoving off, 
 21* 
 
246 HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 heard voices and two gun-shots in the cliffs above, but could 
 see nothing. Sent Mr. Dale, in the Fanny Skinner, to sound 
 across to Ain Turabeh. Our course was northwardly, parallel 
 with, and a short distance from, the Arabian shore, sketch- 
 ing the topography as we passed. It presented the same 
 lofty, rugged, parched hills as heretofore. Passed a beau- 
 tiful little stream, along the banks of which were twenty-nine 
 date palm-trees, in groups of two or three, — a grateful relief to 
 the monotonous and dreary hue of the mountains and the sea. 
 
 In half an hour we passed a stream which was visible, in a 
 long white line, from the summit to the sea, into which it plunged, 
 a tiny, but foaming cataract. Its whole course was fringed with 
 shrubbery, and its brawling noise was distinctly heard. 
 
 At half-past 10, stopped to examine some huge, black boul- 
 ders, lying confusedly upon the shore, which proved to be trap 
 interspersed with tufa. The whole mountain, from base to sum- 
 mit, appeared one black mass of scoriae and lava, the superposi- 
 tion of the layers giving them a singular appearance. In the 
 rocky hollows of the shore were incrustations of salt, of which, as 
 well as of the lava, we procured specimens. 
 
 Starting again, — the scenery was grand and wild ; wherever 
 there was a rivulet, lines of green cane and tamarisk, and an oc- 
 casional date-palm-tree, marked its course : a fine breeze from 
 the southward. Stopped for the night in a cove formed by the 
 Zerka Main, the outlet of the hot springs of Callirohoe. The 
 stream, twelve feet wide and ten inches deep, rushes, in a south- 
 erly direction, with great velocity, into the sea. Temperature of 
 the stream, 95°. It w T as a little sulphureous to the taste. The 
 stream has worn its bed through the rock, and flows between the 
 perpendicular sides of the chasm, and through the delta, bend- 
 ing south, about two furlongs, to the sea. The banks of the 
 stream, along the delta, are fringed with canes, tamarisks, and 
 the castor-bean. The chasm is 122 feet wide at the mouth ; and, 
 for one mile up, as far as we traced it, does not lessen in width. 
 There were a few date-palm-trees growing in it. The turns, 
 about 200 yards apart, at first gently rounded, but subsequently 
 
BATHING. 247 
 
 sharp and angular. There was a succession of rapids, and a cas- 
 cade of four, and a perpendicular fall of five or six feet. A little 
 above the rapid, trap shows over sandstone. The current was 
 so strong that, while bathing, I could not, with my feet against a 
 rock, keep from being carried down the stream; and, walking 
 where it was but two feet deep, with difficulty, retained a 
 foothold with my shoes off. There were many incrustations of 
 lime, and some tufa. In the loneliest part of the chasm, nearly 
 trod upon a sparrow before it flew away. Had this been a settled 
 country, the wee thing would not have been ignorant that, in 
 mere wantonness, man is its greatest enemy. Saw a white but- 
 terfly, some snipes and brown hawks, and gathered some helio- 
 trope, which was scentless, and a beautiful purple flower, star- 
 shaped, five petals, calix and seed-stalk a delicate yellow. 
 Pulled up a species of willow by the roots, in the hope of pre- 
 serving it. 
 
 Bathed first in the sea and afterwards in the stream ; a most 
 delicious transition from the dense, acrid water of the sea, which 
 made our innumerable sores smart severely — to the soft, tepid 
 and refreshing waters of Callirohoe. The water of the sea was 
 very buoyant ; and, with great difficulty, I kept my feet beneath 
 the surface. 
 
 After half a cup of tea each, to w T hich w T e were limited from 
 scarcity of sugar, we slept upon the gravel until 2 A. M. 
 
248 SOUNDINGS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 FROM THE OUTLET OF THE HOT SPRINGS OF CAL- 
 LIROHOE TO AIN TURABEH. 
 
 Friday, May 5. Rose at 2 A. M. Fresh wind from the 
 north ; air quite chilly, and the warmth of the fire agreeable. It 
 was this contrast which made the heat of the day so very op- 
 pressive. Everything was still and quiet, except the wind, and the 
 surf breaking upon the shore. I had purposed visiting the ruins 
 of Mach&rus, upon this singular hot-water stream, and to have 
 excavated one of the ancient tombs mentioned in the Itinerary of 
 Irby and Mangles, the most unpretending, and one of the most 
 accurate narratives I have ever read ; but the increasing heat of 
 the sun, and the lassitude of the party, warned me to lose no 
 time. 
 
 At 2.45, A. M., called the cook to prepare our breakfast, after 
 which we started to sound across to Ain Turabeh, thus making a 
 srtaight line to intersect the diagonal one of yesterday. Two fur- 
 longs from the land, the soundings were twenty-three fathoms (138 
 feet). The next cast, five minutes after, 174 (1044 feet), gradu- 
 ally deepening to 218 fathoms (1308 feet) ; the bottom, soft, 
 brown mud, with rectangular crystals of salt. Two-thirds across, 
 met the Fanny Skinner. Put Mr. Aulick, with Dr. Anderson, 
 in her ; also the cook, and some provisions, and directed them to 
 complete the topography of the Arabian shore, and determine the 
 position of the mouth of the Jordan ; and, as they crossed over, to 
 sound again in an indicated spot. Made a series of experiments 
 with the self-registering thermometer, on our way, in the Fanny 
 Mason, to Ain Turabeh. At the depth of 174 fathoms (1044 
 
INTENSE HEAT. 219 
 
 feet), the temperature of the water was 62° ; at the surface, im- 
 mediately above it, 76°. There was an interruption to the gra- 
 dual decrease of temperature, and at ten fathoms there was a 
 stratum of cold water, the temperature, 59°. With that excep- 
 tion, the diminution was gradual. The increase of temperature 
 below ten fathoms may, perhaps, be attributable to heat being 
 evolved in the process of crystalization. Procured some of the 
 water brought up from 195 fathoms, and preserved it in a bottle. 
 The morning intensely hot, not a breath of air stirring, and a mist 
 over the surface of the water, which looked stagnant and greasy. 
 
 At 10.30, we were greeted with the sight of the green fringe 
 of Ain Turabeh, dotted with our snow-white tents, in charge of 
 the good old Sherif. Sent two Arabs to meet Mr. Aulick, at the 
 mouth of the Jordan. Sherif had heard of the fight between 
 'Akil and his friends with the Beni 'Adwans ; we learned from 
 him that several of the Beni Sukrs had since died of their wounds, 
 and that the whole tribe suffered severely. 
 
 Reconnoitred the pass over this place, to see if it would be 
 practicable to carry up the level. It proved very steep and diffi- 
 cult, but those at 'Ain Feshkhah and Ain Jidy are yet more so ; 
 and, after consultation with Mr. Dale, determined to attempt the 
 present one. Made arrangements for camels, to transport the 
 boats across to the Mediterranean. The weather very warm. 
 
 Saturday, May 6. A warm but not oppressive morning ; the 
 same mist over the sea ; the same wild and awful aspect of the over- 
 hanging cliffs. Commenced taking the copper boat apart, and to 
 level up this difficult pass. To Mr. Dale, as fully competent, I 
 assigned this task. With five men and an assistant, he laboured 
 up six hundred feet, but with great difficulty. 
 
 At 9 A.M., thermometer, in the shade, 100°; the sky cur- 
 tained with thin, misty clouds. At 11 A. M., Mr. Aulick re- 
 turned, having completed the topography of the shore, and taken 
 observations and bearings at the mouth of the Jordan. Dr. 
 Anderson had collected many specimens in the geological depart- 
 ment. The exploration of this sea was now complete. Sent Mr. 
 Aulick out again, in the iron boat, to make experiments with the 
 
250 INCREASING HEAT. 
 
 self-registering thermometer, at various depths ; the result the same 
 as yesterday and the day previous, the coldest stratum being at 
 ten fathoms. Light, flickering airs, and very sultry during the 
 night. 
 
 Sunday, May 7. This day was given to rest. The weather 
 during the morning was exceedingly sultry and oppressive, At 
 8.33, thermometer 106°. The clouds w T ere motionless, the sea 
 unruffled, the rugged faces of the rocks without a shadow, and 
 the canes and tamarisks around the fountain drooped their heads 
 towards the only element which could sustain them under the 
 smiting heat. The Sherif slept in his tent, the Arabs in various 
 listless attitudes around him ; and the mist of evaporation hung 
 over the sea, almost hiding the opposite cliffs. 
 
 At 6 P. M., a hot hurricane, another sirocco, blew T down the tents 
 and broke the syphon barometer, our last remaining one. The 
 wind shifted in currents from N. W. to S. E.; excessively hot. 
 In two hours it had gradually subsided to a sultry calm. All 
 suffered very much from languor, and prudence warned us to be- 
 gone. The temperature of the night was pleasanter than that of 
 the day, and w T e slept soundly the sleep of exhaustion. 
 
 Monday, May 8. A cloudy, sultry morning. At sunrise con- 
 tinued the levelling. At 8, the sun burst through his cloudy 
 screen, and threatened an oppressive day. Constructed a large 
 float, with a flag- staff fitted to it. 
 
 In the morning, a bird was heard singing in the thicket near 
 the fountain, its notes resembling those of the nightingale of Italy. 
 The bulbul, the nightingale of this region, is like our kingfisher, 
 except that its plumage is brown and blue, and the bill a deep 
 scarlet. We cannot say that we ever heard it sing ; but at vari- 
 ous places on the Jordan we heard a bird singing at night, and 
 the Arabs said it was the bulbul. 
 
 The heat increased with the ascending sun, and at meridian 
 the thermometer stood at 110° in the shade. The Sherif 's tent 
 was dark and silent, and we w T ere compelled to discontinue work. 
 The surface of the sea was covered by an impenetrable mist, 
 which concealed the two extremities and the eastern shore ; and we 
 had the prospect of a boundless ocean with an obscured horizon. 
 
ANALYSIS OF WATERS. 251 
 
 At 4 P. M., the levelling party returned, having levelled over 
 the crest of the mountain and 300 feet on the desert of Judea. 
 They had been compelled to discontinue work by the high wind. 
 The tent I sent them was blown down, and they were forced to 
 dine under the " shadow of a rock." 
 
 Tuesday, May 9. Awakened at early daylight by the Muslim 
 call to prayer. A light wind from N. E. Sky obscured ; a mist 
 over the sea, but less dense than that of yesterday. Sent Mr. 
 Dale with the interpreter to reconnoitre the route over the desert 
 towards Jerusalem. Moored a large float, with the American 
 ensign flying, in eighty fathoms water, abreast of Ain Ghuweir, 
 at too long a distance from the shore to be disturbed by the Arabs. 
 Sent George Overstock and Hugh Read, sick seamen, to the con- 
 vent of Mar Saba. 
 
 Sent off the boats in sections to Bab el Hulil (Jaffa gate), Jeru- 
 salem. Tried the relative density of the water of this sea and 
 of the Atlantic— the latter from 25° N. latitude and 52° W. lon- 
 gitude ; distilled water being as 1. The water of the Atlantic 
 was 1.02, and of this sea 1.13. The last dissolved j\, the 
 water of the Atlantic j, and distilled water T \ of its weight of 
 salt. The salt used was a little damp. On leaving the Jordan 
 we carefully noted the draught of the boats. With the same 
 loads they drew one inch less water when afloat upon this sea 
 than in the river. 1 
 
 The streams from the fountains of Turabeh, Ain Jidy, and the 
 salt spring near Muhariwat, were almost wholly absorbed in the 
 plains, as well as those running down the ravines of Sudeir, Seyal, 
 Mubiighghik, and Humeir. Taking the mean depth, width, and 
 velocity of its more constant tributaries, I had estimated the 
 quantity of water which the Dead Sea was hourly receiving from 
 them at the time of our visit, but the calculation is one so liable 
 to error, that I withhold it. It is scarcely necessary to say, that 
 the quantity varies with the season, being greater during the 
 winter rains, and much less in the heat of summer. 
 
 1 Since our return, some of the water of the Dead Sea has been sub- 
 jected to a powerful microscope, and no animalculae or vestige of animal 
 matter could be detected. 
 
252 SUM OF OUR LABOURS. 
 
 At nightfall, Mr. Dale and the interpreter returned. Before 
 retiring, we bathed in the Dead Sea, preparatory to spending our 
 twenty-second and last night upon it. We have carefully sounded 
 this sea, determined its geographical position, taken the exact 
 topography of its shores, ascertained the temperature, width, 
 depth, and velocity of its tributaries, collected specimens of every 
 kind, and noted the winds, currents, changes of the weather, and 
 all atmospheric phenomena. These, with a faithful narrative of 
 events, will give a correct idea of this wondrous body of water, 
 as it appeared to us. 
 
 From the summit of these cliffs, in a line a little north of west, 
 about sixteen miles distant, is Hebron, a short distance from 
 which Dr. Robinson found the dividing ridge between the Medi- 
 terranean and this sea. From Beni Na'im, the reputed tomb of 
 Lot, upon that ridge, it is supposed that Abraham looked " toward 
 all the land of the plain," and beheld the smoke, " as the smoke 
 of a furnace." The inference from the Bible, that this entire 
 chasm was a plain sunk and "overwhelmed" by the wrath of 
 God, seems to be sustained by the extraordinary character of our 
 soundings. The bottom of this sea consists of two submerged 
 plains, an elevated and a depressed one ; the former averaging 
 thirteen, the latter about thirteen hundred feet below the surface. 
 Through the northern, and largest and deepest one, in a line cor- 
 responding with the bed of the Jordan, is a ravine, which again 
 seems to correspond with the Wady el Jeib, or ravine within a 
 ravine, at the south end of the sea. 
 
 Between the Jabok and this sea, we unexpectedly found a sud- 
 den breakdown in the bed of the Jordan. If there be a similar 
 break in the water-courses to the south of the sea, accompanied 
 with like volcanic characters, there can scarce be a doubt that the 
 whole Ghor has sunk from some extraordinary convulsion ; pre- 
 ceded, most probably, by an eruption of fire, and a general con- 
 flagration of the bitumen which abounded in the plain. I shall 
 ever regret that we were not authorized to explore the southern 
 Ghor to the Red Sea. 
 
 All our observations have impressed me forcibly with the con- 
 
HYPOTHESES. 253 
 
 viction that the mountains are older than the sea. Had their 
 relative ages been the same at first, the torrents would have worn 
 their beds in a gradual and correlative slope ; — whereas, in the 
 northern section, the part supposed to have been so deeply en- 
 gulfed, although a soft, bituminous limestone prevails, the tor- 
 rents plunge down several hundred feet ; while on both sides of 
 the southern portion, the ravines come down without abruptness, 
 although the head of Wady Kerak is more than a thousand feet 
 higher than the head of Wady Ghuweir. Most of the ravines, 
 too, as reference to the map will show, have a southward inclina- 
 tion near their outlets, that of Zerka Main or Callirohoe especially, 
 which, next to the Jordan, must pour down the greatest volume 
 of water in the rainy season. But even if they had not that 
 deflection, the argument which has been based on this supposition 
 would be untenable ; for tributaries, like all other streams, seek 
 the greatest declivities without regard to angular inclination. The 
 Yermak flow's into the Jordan at a right angle, and the Jabok 
 with an acute one to its descending course. 
 
 There are many other things tending to the same conclusion, 
 among them the isolation of the mountain of Usdum ; its differ- 
 ence of contour and of range, and its consisting entirely of a 
 volcanic product. 
 
 But it is for the learned to comment on the facts we have labo- 
 riously collected. Upon ourselves, the result is a decided one. 
 We entered upon this sea, w T ith conflicting opinions. One of the 
 party was skeptical, and another, I think, a professed unbeliever 
 of the Mosaic account. After twenty-two days' close investiga- 
 tion, if I am not mistaken, w r e are unanimous in the conviction 
 of the truth of the Scriptural account of the destruction of the 
 cities of the plain. I record v. T ith diffidence the conclusions we 
 have reached, simply as a protest against the shallow deductions 
 of would-be unbelievers. 
 
 At midnight the scene was the same as at Ain el Feshkhah, the 
 
 first night of our arrival, except that the ground was more firm and 
 
 the weather warmer ; but the sea presented a similar unnatural 
 
 aspect. There was also a new feature betokening a coming 
 
 22 
 
254 DEPARTURE FROM THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 change ; there were camels lying around, which had been brought 
 in, preparatory to to-morrow's movement. Heretofore, I had 
 always seen this animal reposing upon its knees, but on this 
 occasion all not chewing the cud were lying down. The night 
 passed away quietly, and a light wind springing up from the 
 north, even the most anxious were at length lulled to sleep by 
 the rippling waves, as they brattled upon the shore. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 FROM THE DEAD SEA TO THE CONVENT OF MAR 
 
 SABA. 
 
 Wednesday, May 10. At 7 A. M., the levelling party started. 
 Made preparations for finally breaking up the camp on the Dead 
 Sea. 
 
 At 9.30, struck tents, and at 10, started, and ascended the 
 pass of Ain Turabeh. With us were Sherif, Ibrahim Aga, and 
 the sheikhs of the Raschayideh and Ta'amirah, and six camels. 
 Winding slowly up the steep pass, we looked back at every turn 
 upon our last place of encampment, and upon the silent sea. 
 We are ever sad on parting with things for the last time. The 
 feeling that we are never to see them again, makes us painfully 
 sensible of our own mortality. 
 
 At 12, overtook the levelling party, and shortly after the 
 camels with the sections of the boats. Camped for the night in 
 Wady Khiyam Seya'rah (Ravine of the Tents of Seya'rah), so 
 called from a tribe of that name having been surprised and mur- 
 dered here. It is a rocky glen, over a steep precipice, a thousand 
 feet above the Dead Sea. There are two large caves on the 
 north side of the ravine, in which we prepared to take up our 
 quarters, but the Arabs dissuaded us with the assurance that they 
 
HISTORY OF SHER1F. 255 
 
 abound with serpents and scorpions, which crawl out in the 
 night. 
 
 Our camp was, properly speaking, in a depression of the ex- 
 tremity of the ridge between the ravines Ghuweir and En Nar. 
 
 At night, we invited Sherif to our tent, and prevailed on him 
 to tell his history. His father was Sherif, or hereditary governor 
 of Mecca, to which dignity, at his death, the eldest brother of 
 our friend succeeded. When Mecca surrendered to Mehemet 
 Ali, his brother was deposed ; and a cousin, inimical to them, 
 was appointed in his stead. The deposed Sherif fled to Constan- 
 tinople ; our friend was carried captive to Cairo, where he was 
 detained ten years a prisoner, but provided with a house, and an 
 allowance of 3000 piastres (125 dollars) per month for his sup- 
 port. When Arabia was overrun by the Wahabees, Mehemet 
 Ali, wisely counting on sectarian animosity, gave our Sherif a 
 command, and sent him to the war. His person bears many 
 marks of wounds he received in various actions. W T hen Mehemet 
 Ali was compelled by the quintuple alliance to abandon his con- 
 quests, our Sherif went to Egypt to claim his pay, and reimburse- 
 ments for advances he had made. Put off with vague promises, 
 he proceeded to Stambohl (Constantinople) to sue for redress, 
 and having laid his application before the divan, was now await- 
 ing the decision. His account of himself is sustained by the 
 information we received from our Vice-Consul and Mr. Fingie, 
 H. B. M. Vice-Consul at Acre, respecting him. He is intelligent 
 and much reverenced, and, in consequence, very influential 
 among the tribes. To him and to 'Akil, coupled with our own 
 vigilance, we may in a great measure ascribe our not having 
 encountered difficulty with the Arabs. He was to leave us the 
 next day, and would carry with him our respect and fervent good 
 wishes. We often remarked among ourselves, what should we 
 have done without Sherif and 'Akil ; we have not the slightest 
 doubt that their presence prevented bloodshed. 
 
 A monk from the Convent of Mar Saba came in this evening, 
 and brought word that our sick sailors were doing well. There 
 seemed to be a good understanding between these religious and 
 
256 HOLY SCENES. 
 
 the various tribes; at night, an Arab shared his aba with the 
 monk, and the shaven-crown of the Christian and the scalp-lock 
 of the Muslim were covered by the same garment. 
 
 In a few hours we had materially changed our climate, and in 
 this elevated region the air was quite cool. We slept uncom- 
 fortably, drawing our cloaks yet closer as the night advanced. 
 At 4 A. M., thermometer 60° ; absolutely cold. 
 
 We were in a most dreary country ; calcined hills and barren 
 valleys, furrowed by torrent beds, all without a tree or shrub, or 
 sign of vegetation. The stillness of death reigned on one side ; 
 the sea of death, calm and curtained in mist, lay upon the other; 
 and yet this is the most interesting country in the world. This is 
 the wilderness of Judea; near this, God conversed with Abraham ; 
 and here, came John the Baptist, preaching the- glad tidings of 
 salvation. These verdureless hills and arid valleys have echoed 
 the words of the Great Precursor ; and at the head of the next 
 ravine lies Bethlehem, the birth-place of the meek Redeemer,— 
 in full sight of the Holy City, the theatre of the most wondrous 
 events recorded on the page of history, — where that self-sacrifice 
 was offered, which became thenceforth the seal of a perpetual 
 covenant between God and man ! 
 
 Thursday, May 11. There is, perhaps, no greater trial to the 
 constitution than sudden changes of atmospheric temperature. 
 We were so enfeebled by the heat we had experienced in the 
 chasm beneath us, that, at the temperature of 60°, the air here felt 
 piercingly cold. We shivered through the night ; and so busy 
 were the sentinels in searching for dried thistles and shrubs, to 
 feed the watch-fires, that, perhaps, in all our wanderings, the 
 guard had never been so remiss. 
 
 We began, early, to prepare for work, and sent off three camel- 
 loads of specimens, &c, to Jerusalem. Settled and parted with 
 the good Sherif. 
 
 Breakfasted in the rocky glen, with our backs towards the 
 barren hills of the Desert of Judea ; while the rays of the sun, 
 rising over the mountains of Moab, were reflected from the glassy 
 surface of the desolate sea before us. 
 
LOWER TEMPERATURE. 257 
 
 We levelled, to-day, over parched valleys, and sterile ridges, 
 to the flattened summit of an elevation, at the base of which three 
 ravines meet, called the " Meeting of the Tribes,"— the Dead 
 Sea concealed by an intervening ridge. We were fully 2000 
 feet above it, and the wind was fierce and cutting. Strolling 
 from the camp, soon after we had pitched the tents, I felt so cold 
 as to be compelled to return. The thermometer, at the opening 
 of the tent, stood at 69° ; but 7° below summer-heat. This 
 place derives its name from a gathering of the tribes, or council, 
 once held here. We saw, to-day, a light-brown fox, with a 
 white tail. 
 
 Friday, May 12. The morning and the evening cool ; the mid- 
 day warm. Levelled into and up the Wady en Nar (Ravine of 
 Fire) to the Greek Convent of Mar Saba. The ravine was shut 
 in, on each side, by high, barren cliffs of chalky limestone, which, 
 while they excluded the air, threw their reverberated heat upon 
 us, and thus made the day's work an uncomfortable one. There 
 was an association connected with the scene, however, which 
 sustained us under the blinding light and oppressive heat of noon. 
 The dry torrent-bed, interrupted by boulders, and covered with 
 fragments of stone, is the channel of the brook Kidron, which, in 
 its season, flows by the walls of the Holy City. 
 
 The approach to the convent is striking, from the lofty, per- 
 pendicular cliffs on each side, perforated with a great many na- 
 tural and artificial excavations. Immense labour, sustained by a 
 fervent though mistaken zeal, must have been expended here. 
 
 A perpendicular cliff, of about 400 feet, has its face covered 
 with walls, terraces, chapels, and churches, constructed of solid 
 masonry, all now in perfect repair. The walls of this convent, 
 with a semicircular-concave sweep, run along the western bank of 
 the ravine, from the bottom to the summit. The buildings form 
 detached parts, constructed at different periods. 
 
 Coming up from the ravine, we descended an inclined wady, 
 
 and camped outside of the western gate of the convent, under a 
 
 broad ledge of rock, forming the head of a lateral ravine, running 
 
 into the main one. A narrow platform was before us, with a 
 
 22* 
 
258 CONVENT OF MAR SABA. 
 
 sheer descent from its edge to the bottom of the small ravine, 
 which bore a few scattering fig-trees. We were earnestly invited 
 to take up our quarters inside ; but, dreading the fleas, we pre- 
 ferred the open air. There was a lofty look-out tower on the hill 
 above us, to the south. 
 
 At the foot of a slight descent, about pistol-shot distance, was 
 a low door, through which we were admitted to visit the convent. 
 By the meagre monk who let us in, we were conducted through 
 a long passage, and down two flights of stairs, into a court paved 
 with flags ; on the right centre of which stood a small, round 
 chapel, containing the tomb of St. Saba. On the opposite side 
 was the church, gorgeously gilded and adorned with panel and 
 fresco paintings; the former enshrined in silver, and some of them 
 good ; the latter mere daubs. The pavement was smooth, varie- 
 gated marble ; there were two clocks, near the altar ; and two 
 large, rich, golden chandeliers, and many ostrich-eggs, suspended 
 from the ceiling. 
 
 From the court we were led along a terraced walk, parallel 
 with the ravine, with some pomegranate-trees and a small gar- 
 den-patch on each side ; and, ascending a few steps, turned shortly 
 to the left, and were ushered into the parlour, immediately over 
 the chasm. The adjoining room was occupied by our two sick 
 men, of whom admirable care had been taken, and we rejoiced 
 to find that they were convalescent. The parlour was about 
 sixteen by twenty-four feet, almost entirely carpeted, with a 
 slightly-elevated divan on two sides. The stinted pomegranate- 
 trees and the few peppers growing in the mimic garden were 
 refreshing to the eye ; and, after a lapse of thirty-two days, we 
 enjoyed the luxury of sitting upon chairs. 
 
 In times of scarcity, the Arabs throng here for food, which is 
 given to them gratuitously ; and to this, doubtless, is attributable 
 the popularity of the inmates of the convent with the wandering 
 tribes. The monks live solely upon a vegetable diet. There are 
 about thirty in the convent, including lay-brothers, and, except a 
 few from Russia, they are all Greeks. They are good-natured, 
 illiterate, and credulous. 
 
BOTANICAL SPECIMENS. 259 
 
 The interior of the convent is far more extensive than one would 
 suppose, looking upon it from the western side, whence only the 
 tower, the top of the church, and a part of the walls, are visible. 
 
 There is egress from the convent to the ravine by means of a 
 ladder, which, at will, is let down from a low, arched door. The 
 si^ht, from the bottom of the ravine, is one well calculated to 
 inspire awe. The chasm is here about 600 feet wide and 400 
 deep, — a broad, deep gorge, or fissure, between lofty mountains, 
 the steep and barren sides of which are furrowed by the winter 
 rains. There are many excavations in the face of the cliffs, on 
 both sides of the ravine, below the convent. They present a 
 most singular appearance ; and, looking upon them, one expects 
 every moment to see the inmates come forth. It is a city of caverns. 
 
 We walked some distance up the bed of the Kidron, and en- 
 countered several precipices from ten to twelve feet high, down 
 which cataracts plunge in winter. It will be difficult, but not 
 impracticable, to level this torrent bed. Collected some fossils, 
 and a few flowers, for preservation. Even at this early season, 
 the scanty vegetation, scattered here and there in the ravines of 
 the desert of Judea, was already parched and withered. There 
 were but few flowers within this ravine ; the scarlet anemone and 
 the purple blossom of the thistle being the prevailing ones. We 
 gathered one, however, which was star-shaped ; the leaves white 
 near the stem, but blue above, and the seed-stalks yellow, with 
 white heads. A few leaves nearest the flower were green, but 
 the rest, with the stalk, were parched and dry. It was inodorous, 
 and, like beauty without virtue, fair and attractive to the eye, but 
 crumbling from rottenness in the hand of him who admiringly 
 plucks it. In this ravine, from the Dead Sea to the borders of 
 cultivation, we have, besides, gathered for our herbarium, the 
 blue weed, so well known in Maryland and Virginia for its de- 
 structive qualities ; the white henbane ; the dyer's weed, used in 
 Europe for dyeing green and yellow ; the dwarf mallow, com- 
 monly called cresses, and the caper plant, the unopened flower- 
 buds of which, preserved in vinegar, are so much used as a con- 
 diment. It is supposed that the last named plant is the hyssop 
 of Scripture. 
 
260 A ROCK-HEWN CISTERN. 
 
 During the night, we had a severe thunder storm, with a slight 
 shower of rain. One of the camels, in its fright, fell into the 
 ravine before the caverns where we slept, and kept us long awake 
 with its discordant cries. The animal was unhurt ; but the Arabs 
 tortured it, by their fruitless endeavours to extricate it in the dark. 
 They were alike deaf to advice, entreaties, and commands, until 
 one of the sentries was ordered to charge upon them, when they 
 hurriedly dispersed, and the poor camel and ourselves were left 
 in peace. 
 
 Saturday, May 13. Calm and cloudy. Deferred levelling any 
 farther, until we had reconnoitred the two routes to Jerusalem. 
 The one up the ravine, although presenting great difficulties, 
 proved more practicable than the route we had come. Let all 
 hands rest until Monday. Extricated the camel from the ravine. 
 
 Sunday, May 14. A quiet day — wind east; weather pleasant. 
 Collected some fossils, and a few flowers, for preservation. While 
 here, several of the bteddin, or coney of Scripture, were seen 
 among the rocks. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 FROM MAR SABA TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 Monday, May 15. Discharged all the Arabs, except a guide 
 and the necessary camel- drivers. The levelling party worked up 
 the bed of the Kidron, while the camp proceeded along the edge 
 of the western clifT. In about two hours, we passed a large 
 cistern, hewn in the rock, twenty feet long, twelve wide, and 
 eighteen high. There was water in it to the depth of four feet, 
 and its surface was coated with green slime. In it two Arabs 
 were bathing. Nevertheless, our beasts and ourselves were com- 
 pelled to drink it. Soon after, isolated tufts of scant and parched 
 vegetation began to appear on the hill-sides. We were truly in a 
 
A CONTRAST. 261 
 
 desert. There was no difference of hue between the dry torrent- 
 bed and the sides and summits of the mountains. From the 
 Great Sea, which washes the sandy plain on the west, to that bit- 
 ter sea on the east, which bears no living thing within it, all was 
 dreary desolation ! The very birds and animals, as on the shores 
 of the Dead Sea, were of the same dull-brown colour,— the colour 
 of ashes. How literally is the prophecy of Joel fulfilled ! " That 
 which the palmer- worm hath left, hath the locust eaten ; and that 
 which the locust hath left, hath the canker-worm eaten ; and that 
 which the canker-worm hath left, hath the caterpillar eaten. The 
 field is wasted, the land mourneth, and joy is withered from the 
 sons of men." 
 
 How different the appearance of the mountain districts of our 
 own land at this season ! There, hills and plains, as graceful in 
 their sweep as the arrested billows of a mighty ocean, are before 
 and around the delighted traveller. Diversified in scenery, luxu- 
 riant of foliage, and like virgin ore, crumbling from their own 
 richness, they teem with their abundant products. The lowing 
 herds, the bleating flocks, the choral songsters of the grove, gra- 
 tify and delight the ear ; the clustering fruit blossoms, the waving 
 corn, the grain slow bending to the breeze, proclaim an early and 
 redundant harvest. More boundless than the view, that glorious 
 land is uninterrupted in its sweep until the one extreme is locked 
 in the fast embrace of thick-ribbed ice, and the other is washed 
 by the phosphorescent ripple of the tropic ; while, on either side, 
 is heard the murmuring surge of a wide-spread and magnificent 
 ocean. Who can look upon that land and not thank God that 
 his lot is cast within it ? And yet this country, scathed by the 
 wrath of an offended Deity, teems with associations of the most 
 thrilling events recorded in the book of time. The patriot may 
 glory in the one,— the Christian of every clime must weep, but, 
 even in weeping, hope for the other. 
 
 Soon after leaving the cistern, or pool, we passed an Arab 
 burial-ground, the graves indicated by a double line of rude 
 stones, as at Kerak ; excepting one of a Skeikh, over which was 
 a plastered tomb. Before it our Arab guide stopped, and, bow- 
 ing his head, recited a short prayer. 
 
262 ARAB AGRICULTURE. 
 
 As we thence advanced, pursuing a north-westerly course, 
 signs of cultivation began to exhibit themselves. On each side 
 of us were magnificent rounded and sharp-crested hills ; and, on 
 the top of one, we soon after saw the black tents of an Arab 
 encampment ; some camels and goats browsing along the sides • 
 and, upon the very summit, the figures of some fellahas (Arab 
 peasant women) cut sharp against the sky. 
 
 A little farther on, we came to a small patch of tobacco, in a 
 narrow ravine, the cotyledons just appearing ; and, in the shadow 
 of a rock, a fellah was seated, with his long gun, to guard it. 
 Half a mile farther, we met an Arab, a genuine Bedawy, wearing 
 a sheepskin aba, the fur inwards, and driving before him a she- 
 camel, with its foal. A little after, still following the bed of the 
 Kidron, we came to the fork of the pilgrim's road, which turns 
 to the north, at the foot of a high hill, on the summit of which 
 was a large encampment of the tribe Subeih. Leaving the pil- 
 grim's road on the right, we skirted the southern base of the hill, 
 with patches of wheat and barley covering the surface of the nar- 
 row valley; — the wheat just heading, and the fields of barley lit- 
 erally " white for the harvest." Standing by the roadside, was 
 a fellaha, with a child in her arms, who courteously saluted us. 
 She did not appear to be more than sixteen. 
 
 The valley was here about two hundred yards wide ; and to 
 our eyes, so long unused to the sight of vegetation, presented a 
 beautiful appearance. The people of the village collected in 
 crowds to look upon us as we passed far beneath them. Some 
 of them came down and declared that they would not permit the 
 'Abeidiyeh (of which tribe were our camel- drivers) to pass through 
 their territory ; and claimed for themselves the privilege of fur- 
 nishing camels. We paid no attention to them, but camped on 
 the west side of the hill, where the valley sweeps to the north. 
 
 Tuesday, May 16. Weather clear, cool, and delightful. At 
 daylight, recommenced levelling. Soon after, the Sheikh of the 
 village above us, with fifteen or twenty followers, armed with 
 long guns, came down and demanded money for passing through 
 his territory. Finding his efforts at intimidation unsuccessful, he 
 
A RURAL SCENE. 263 
 
 presented us with a sheep, which he refused to sell, but gave it, 
 he said, as a backshish. Knowing that a return was expected, 
 I directed the fair value of the sheep, in money, to be given. 
 
 It was a pastoral sight, when we broke up camp, this morning. 
 The sun was just rising over the eastern hills ; and, in every 
 direction, we heard shepherds calling to each other from height 
 to height, their voices mingling with the bleating of sheep and 
 goats, and the lowing of numerous cattle. Reapers were harvest- 
 ing in every field ; around the threshing-floors the oxen, three 
 abreast, were treading out the grain ; and women were passing 
 to and fro, bearing huge bundles of grain in the straw, or pitchers 
 of leban (sour milk), upon their heads. Every available part of 
 this valley is cultivated. The mode of harvesting is primitive. 
 The reaping-hook alone is used ; the cradle seemed to be un- 
 known. The scene reminded one forcibly of the fields of Boaz, 
 and Ruth the gleaner. But, with all its peaceful aspect, there 
 was a feature of insecurity. Along the bases of the hills, from 
 time to time, shifting their positions, to keep within the shade, 
 were several armed fellahin, guarding the reapers and the grain. 
 The remark of Volney yet holds true : — "the countryman must 
 sow with his musket in his hand, and no more is sown than is 
 necessary for subsistence." 
 
 Towards noon, it became very warm, and we were thirsty. 
 Meeting an old Arab woman, we despatched her to the Subeih 
 for some leban. We noticed that 'Awad, our Ta'amirah guide, 
 was exceedingly polite to her. But when she returned, accom- 
 panied by her daughter, a young and pretty fellaha, he became 
 sad, and scarce said a word while they remained. On being 
 asked the reason of his sudden sadness, he confessed that he had 
 once spent twelve months with that tribe, sleeping, according to 
 the custom of Arab courtship, every night outside of the young 
 girl's tent, in the hope of winning her for his wife. He said that 
 they were mutually attached, but that the mother was opposed to 
 him, and the father demanded 4000 piastres, about 170 dollars. 
 'Awad had 2000 piastres, the earnings of his whole life, and in 
 the hope of buying her (for such is the true name of an Arab mar- 
 
264 an arab's love. 
 
 riage), he determined to sell his horse, which he valued at 1000 
 piastres, or a little over forty dollars. But, unfortunately, his 
 horse died, which reduced him to despair. Shortly after, the 
 girl's uncle claimed her for his son, then five years old, offering 
 to give his daughter to her brother. According to an immemorial 
 custom of the Arabs, such a claim took precedence of all others, 
 and the beautiful girl, just ripening into womanhood, was be- 
 trothed to the child. With the philosophy of his race, however, 
 'Awad subsequently consoled himself with a wife ; but, true to 
 his first love, never sees its object without violent emotion. 
 I He further told us, that in the same camp there was another 
 girl far more beautiful than the one we had seen, for whom her 
 father asked 6000 piastres, a little more than 250 dollars. - The 
 one we saw was lightly and symmetrically formed, and exceed- 
 ingly graceful in her movements. The tawny complexion, the 
 cheek-bones somewhat prominent, the coarse black hair, and the 
 dark, lascivious eye, reminded us of a female Indian of our border. 
 Leaving the fellahin busy in their fields, and still following the 
 ravine, we came to a narrow ridge, immediately on the other side 
 of which were some thirty or forty black tents. Here a stain 
 upon the rocks told a tale of blood. 
 
 An Arab widower ran off with a married woman from the 
 encampment before us, — a most unusual crime among this people. 
 In little more than a month, the unhappy woman died. Know- 
 ing that by the laws of the tribes he could be put to death by the 
 injured man, or any of his or the woman's relatives he might 
 encounter, and that they were on the watch for him ; and yet 
 anxious to return, he made overtures for a settlement. After 
 much negotiation, the feud was reconciled on condition that he 
 gave his daughter, 400 piastres, a camel, and some sheep to the 
 injured man. A feast was accordingly given, and the parties 
 embraced in seeming amity. But the son-in-law brooded over 
 his wrong, and one day seeing the seducer of his former wife 
 approaching, concealed himself in a cavity of the rock and delib- 
 erately shot him as he passed. Such is the Arab law of ven- 
 geance, in cases of a flagrant breach of faith like this, that all of . 
 
FIRST VIEW OF JERUSALEM. 265 
 
 both tribes, 'Awad told us, are now bound to put the murderer 
 to death. ' 
 
 This elopement is not an isolated circumstance, although a 
 most unusual one. The only wonder is that with such a licen- 
 tious race as the Arabs, the marriage contract, wherein the woman 
 has no choice, is not more frequently violated. 
 
 Soon after noon, we passed the last encampment of black tents, 
 and turning aside from the line of march, I rode to the summit of 
 a hill on the left, and beheld the Holy City, on its elevated site 
 at the head of the ravine. With an interest never felt before, I 
 gazed upon the hallowed spot of our redemption. Forgetting 
 myself and all around me, I saw, in vivid fancy, the route tra- 
 versed eighteen centuries before by the Man of Sorrows. Men 
 may say what they please, but there are moments when the soul, 
 casting aside the artificial trammels of the world, will assert its 
 claim to a celestial origin, and regardless of time and place, of 
 sneers and sarcasms, pay its tribute at the shrine of faith, and 
 weep for the sufferings of its founder. 
 
 I scarce realized my position. Could it be, that with my com- 
 panions I had been permitted to explore that wondrous sea, which 
 an angry God threw as a mantle over the cities he had con- 
 demned, and of which it had been heretofore predicted that no 
 one could traverse it and live? It was so, for there, far below, 
 through the descending vista, lay the sombre sea. Before me, on 
 its lofty hill, four thousand feet above that sea, was the queenly 
 city. I cannot coincide with most travellers in decrying its posi- 
 tion. From that view, it seemed, in isolated grandeur, to be in 
 admirable keeping with the sublimity of its associations. A lofty 
 mountain, sloping to the south, and precipitous on the east and 
 west, has a yawning natural fosse on those three sides, worn by 
 the torrents of ages. The deep vale of the son of Hinnom; the 
 profound chasm of the valley of Jehoshaphat, unite at the south- 
 east angle of the base to form the Wady en Nar, the ravine of fire, 
 down which, in the rainy season, the Kidron precipitates its 
 swollen flood into the sea below. 
 
 Mellowed by time, and yet further softened by the intervening 
 23 
 
2Z0 APPROACH TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 distance, the massive walls, with their towers and bastions, looked 
 beautiful yet imposing in the golden sunlight ; and above them, 
 the only thing within their compass visible from that point, rose 
 the glittering dome of the mosque of Omar, crowning Mount 
 Moriah, on the site of the Holy Temple. On the other side of 
 the chasm, commanding the city and the surrounding hills, is the 
 Mount of Olives, its slopes darkened with the foliage of olive- 
 trees, and on its very summit the former Church of the Ascension, 
 now converted into a mosque. 
 
 Many writers have undertaken to describe the first sight of 
 Jerusalem ; but all that I have read conveys but a faint idea of 
 the reality. There is a gloomy grandeur in the scene which lan- 
 guage cannot paint. My feeble pen is wholly unworthy of the 
 effort. With fervent emotions I have made the attempt, but con- 
 gealed in the process of transmission, the most glowing thoughts 
 are turned to icicles. 
 
 The ravine widened as we approached Jerusalem ; fields of 
 yellow grain, orchards of olives and figs, and some apricot-trees, 
 covered all the land in sight capable of cultivation ; but not a 
 tree, nor a bush, on the barren hill-sides. The young figs, from 
 the size of a currant to a plum, were shooting from the extremities 
 of the branches, while the leaf-buds were just bursting. Indeed, 
 the fruit of the fig appears before the leaves are formed, and thus, 
 when our Saviour saw a fig-tree in leaf, he had, humanly speak- 
 ing, reason to expect to find fruit upon it. 
 
 Although the mountain-sides are barren, there are vestiges 
 of terraces on nearly all of them. On the slope of one there are 
 twenty-four, which accounts for the redundant population this 
 country once supported. 
 
 Ascending the valley, which, at every step, presented more and 
 more an increasing luxuriance of vegetation, the dark hue of the 
 olive, with its dull, white blossoms, relieved by the light, rich 
 green of the apricot and the fig, and an occasional pomegranate, 
 thickly studded with its scarlet flowers, we came to En Rogel, 
 the Well of Job, or of Nehemiah (where the fire of the altar was 
 recovered), with cool, delicious water, 118 feet deep, and a small, 
 arched, stone building over it. 
 
VICINITY OF THE HOLY CITY. 267 
 
 On our right, was the Mount of Offence, where Solomon wor- 
 shipped Ashtaroth : before us, in the rising slope of the valley of 
 Jehoshaphat, had been the Kings' gardens in the palmy days of 
 Jerusalem : a little above, and farther to the west, were the pool 
 cf Siloam and the fountain of the Virgin : on the opposite side of 
 the chasm was the village of Siloam, where, it is said, Solomon 
 kept his strange wives ; and, below it, the great Jewish burial- 
 ground, tessellated with the flat surfaces of grave- stones ; and, 
 near by, the tombs of Absalom, Zacharias, and Jehoshaphat ; and, 
 above and beyond, and more dear in its associations than all, the 
 garden of Gethsemane. 
 
 We here turned to the left, up the valley of the son of Hinnom, 
 where Saul was anointed King; and, passing a tree on the right, 
 which, according to tradition, indicates the spot where Isaiah was 
 sawn asunder ; and by a cave in which it is asserted that the 
 Apostles concealed themselves when they forsook their Master; 
 and under the Aceldama, bought with the price of blood ; and 
 near the pool in the garden of Urias, where, from his palace, the 
 King saw Bathsheba bathing; we levelled slowly along the skirts 
 of Mount Zion, near the summit of which towered a mosque, 
 above the tomb of David. 
 
 It was up Mount Zion that Abraham, steadfast in faith, led the 
 wondering Isaac, the type of a future sacrifice. 
 
 Centuries after, a more august and a self- devoted victim, laden 
 with the instrument of his torture, toiled along the same acclivity; 
 but there was then no miraculous interposition ; and He who felt 
 for the anguish of a human parent, spared not Himself. 
 
 From this valley Mount Zioirrises high and precipitous ; and, 
 isolated as the hill was under the Jebusites, might well justify 
 their scornful message when summoned by David to surrender. 
 
 Following the curve of the vale of Hinnom, the Gehenna of 
 the Old Testament, which rounds gradually to the north, with the 
 Hill of Evil Counsel 1 on our left, we proceeded to the lower 
 
 1 So called, from the tradition that on it Caiaphas dwelt when he coun- 
 selled with the Jews. 
 
268 NIGHT UNDER THE WALLS OF JERUSALEM. 
 
 pool of Gihon, where, at 5 P. M., we were compelled to halt, in 
 consequence of the high wind agitating the spirit-level. 
 
 We pitched our tents upon a terrace, just above where the 
 aqueduct crosses from Solomon's pool, with Zion gate imme- 
 diately over us, and, a quarter of a mile below the tower of Hip- 
 pacus and the Jaffa gate. In a line with us. above the Jaffa gate, 
 w T as the upper pool of Gihon, with a number of Turkish tombs 
 near it. On the opposite, or western side of the ravine, w r ere 
 old, gray, barren cliffs, w T ith excavated tombs and caverns. The 
 lower pool, beneath the camp, is formed by two huge, thick walls 
 across the chasm. The aqueduct is led along the upper edge of 
 the lower one ; and the surface of the wall serves as a bridge, 
 over which passes the road to Bethlehem, — the one traversed by 
 our Saviour, on his first visit to Jerusalem. 
 
 There w r as little evidence of curiosity respecting us or the labour 
 in which we were engaged. Our interpreter once or twice heard 
 the remark, " the Franks are preparing to take possession of the 
 Holy City/' 
 
 The localities around us were so interesting, every spot teem- 
 ing with recollections of the past, that the night was far advanced 
 before we slept. The stars shone forth lustrous, yet serene ; and 
 the fleecy cloud drifted slowly along the sky ; and the glittering 
 dew settled upon the bending blade, which, while it bent, it fer- 
 tilized. The luxuriant valleys, the lofty mountains, and the 
 jew T elled sky, proclaimed the existence of a Being as merciful as 
 He is potent ; while the crumbling terraces, the desecrated tombs, 
 and the fast-bound gates of the silent city, beyond which, after 
 night-fall, none can venture in security, told of the devastating 
 hand, and the cruel and rapacious nature of man. 
 
 The dew was heavy, and we suffered from the cold, although 
 the thermometer did not range below 52° in the night. The 
 grain, already cut, laid in heaps in the valley below, exposed to 
 the depredation of the spoiler, for none dared remain to guard it. 
 Of all that solitude, we were the only tenants. 
 
ENTRANCE TO JERUSALEM. 269 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 Wednesday, May 17. At 4 A. M. this morning, the thermo- 
 meter stood at 53°. In our present condition, the air felt as keen 
 at this temperature as formerly at home, when the sky was clouded, 
 and there was snow upon the ground. 
 
 We ran the level up the road, and beyond the Jaffa gate, to 
 the highest near peak, north-west of Jerusalem. There were 
 many Jewish women and children, clothed all in white, under the 
 olive-trees in the valley as we passed. They were families from 
 the city, who thus came to spend the day beneath the shade, 
 away from the stifling air of the Jewish quarter. 
 
 Passing a large tomb which stands conspicuous to the north, 
 we camped a little off the Jaffa road, beside an olive-tree, about 
 a mile and a half distant from the city ; and as far south-west 
 from the reputed place where the Empress Helena was buried, 
 and immediately west of the site most probably occupied by the 
 besieging camp of the Roman army under Titus. There were 
 many fields of grain around us, occasionally separated by low 
 walls of uncut and uncemented stone. There were few trees, 
 and the mountains, from their summits two-thirds down, w T ere 
 masses of brown rock without soil and unrelieved by verdure. 
 South-west from us, about a mile distant, was a large building, 
 its towers just visible over an intervening ridge. It was the 
 Greek convent of the Holy Cross, where, we were told, " is the 
 earth that nourished the root, that bore the tree, that yielded the 
 timber, that made the cross." A most irreverent play upon 
 words connected with such a theme, for it reminds one forcibly 
 of the nursery tale of the " house that Jack built." 
 
 It is from this quarter that the appearance of Jerusalem has 
 23* 
 
270 JERUSALEM. 
 
 been usually described. Looking hence upon the city, but little 
 above a level, it is certainly less grand and imposing than from 
 the gorge of the valley to the south-east, where it towers majes- 
 tically above the spectator. Yet, beheld even from this point, 
 there is no other city in the world which can compare with it in 
 position. It does not, \i\e other cities, present an indefinite mass 
 of buildings, which must be viewed in detail before the eye can 
 be gratified ; but, with only its dome-roofs swelling above the 
 time-stained and lofty walls, Jerusalem sits enthroned, a queen in 
 the midst of an empire of desolation. Apart from its associations, 
 w T e look upon it in admiration ; but, connected with them, the 
 mind is filled with reverential awe, as it recalls the wondrous 
 events that have occurred within and around it. 
 
 The city is nearly in the form of a parallelogram, about three- 
 fourths of a mile long, from east to west, and half a mile broad, 
 from north to south. The walls are lofty, protected by an artificial 
 fosse on the north, and the deep ravines of Jehoshaphat, of Gihon, 
 and the Son of Hinnom, on the east, south, and west. There 
 are now but four gates to the city. The Jaffa gate, the fish-gate 
 of the New Testament, on the west ; the Damascus gate, opening 
 on the great northern road, along which our Saviour travelled, 
 when, at twelve years of age, he came up with his mother and 
 kindred ; the gate of St. Stephen, on the east, near the spot 
 where the first Christian martyr fell, and overlooking the valley 
 of Jehoshaphat ; and the Zion gate, to the south, on the crest of 
 the mount. Immediately within the last, are the habitations of 
 the lepers. 
 
 On the 18th, sent the sections of the boats to Jaffa, under the 
 charge of Sherif, whom we found here. We remained in camp 
 until the 22d, the officers and men by turns visiting the city and 
 its environs. During that time the weather was clear, cool at 
 night, and delightful throughout the day. 
 
 Dr. Anderson left us here, his business calling him in another 
 direction. Although not required to do so, he had, while with 
 us, generously persisted in bearing his portion of watchfulness 
 and fatigue ; and by his invariable cheerfulness, his promptitude 
 
MUSLIM PILGRIMS. 271 
 
 and zeal on all occasions, proved, independently of his profes- 
 sional services, a most valuable auxiliary. He won our esteem, 
 and carried with him the fervent good-will of every member of 
 the party. Mr. Bedlow, who had studied medicine, and given 
 us satisfactory proof of his capacity, was appointed to fill the 
 place of Dr. Anderson. 
 
 The following account of his first day in Jerusalem is from the 
 diary of the youngest member of the party, who was sent up from 
 Ain Jidy in advance of the camp. I give it as the unvarnished 
 recital of one who simply relates what he saw. 
 
 " Our bones yet ached from the effects of our fatiguing ride; 
 nevertheless, we determined first to visit the holy places of Jeru- 
 salem, and then to regale ourselves with a civilized repast, and 
 afterwards to luxuriate upon a bona fide bed. 
 
 "Our cicerone had arrived betimes, and installed himself in 
 his office with that pleasantness of manner which the expectation 
 of a liberal fee produces. His entreaties to make haste roused us 
 from our recumbent postures, and we sallied forth through mis- 
 able apologies for streets, lined on each side by dilapidated bazaars. 
 
 "The Via Dolorosa, or Sorrowful Way, first arrested our at- 
 tention, and our guide pointed out the spot where our Saviour 
 fell under the burthen of his cross. A little farther on, we had a 
 partial view of the mosque of Omar, above the high walls by 
 which it is surrounded. While we gazed upon it, a crowd of 
 Abyssinian pilgrims called out to us with such fierce expressions 
 of fanatic rage that our hands instinctively grasped our weapons. 
 The movement had its effect, and after indulging our curiosity, 
 we passed on unmolested. 
 
 " Next to Mecca, Jerusalem is the most holy place of Mu- 
 hammedan pilgrimage, and throughout the year, the mosque 
 of Omar and its courts are crowded with turbaned worshippers. 
 This mosque, built upon the site of the Holy Temple, is the 
 great shrine of their devotions. It is strictly guarded against all 
 intruders, and there is a superstitious Muslim belief that if a 
 Christian were to gain access to it, Allah would assent to .what- 
 ever he might please to ask, and they take it for granted that his 
 
272 CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE. 
 
 first prayer would be for the subversion of the religion of the 
 Prophet. 
 
 " In one of the streets we came to a low gate, passing through 
 which and descending a long flight of stairs, we entered upon an 
 open court in front of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, an ancient 
 and venerable building. Scattered about the court were motley 
 groups of Jew pedlars, Turks, beggars, and Christian pilgrims. 
 The appearance of a poor cripple excited my compassion, and I 
 gave him a piastre ; but the consequences were fearful. The 
 war-cry of the Syrian pauper, " backshish! backshish!" instantly 
 resounded from all quarters, and we were hemmed in, pressed, 
 and swayed to and fro by the rabble. Our cicerone plied his 
 stick vigorously in our defence, and it truly seemed to be gifted 
 with miraculous powers, for the blind saw, and the lame walked, 
 and amid their imprecations upon our Christian heads we entered 
 the church. 
 
 " Just within the door, seated on a raised divan, two sedate 
 old Muslims were regaling themselves with miniature cups of 
 coffee and the everlasting chibouque. Immediately in front of 
 the entrance is the stone of unction, upon which, according to 
 tradition, the body of our Lord was anointed. It is a plain slab 
 of Jerusalem marble, slightly elevated above the floor of the 
 church, and enclosed by a low railing. The pilgrims, in their 
 pious fervour, crowding forward to kiss it, prevented our near 
 approach. 
 
 " Turning to the left, we saw in the centre of the main body 
 of the church a small oblong building, which contains the sepul- 
 chre. There were different processions crossing and recrossing 
 each other with slow and measured pace, each pilgrim with a 
 taper in his hand, and the numerous choirs, in various languages, 
 were chanting aloud the service of the day. The lights, the 
 noise, and the moving crowd had an effect for which the mind 
 was not prepared, and with far less awe than the sanctity of the 
 place is calculated to inspire, we entered the sepulchre. In the 
 middle of the first apartment, for it is divided into two, is a stone, 
 upon which the angel was seated when he informed the two Marys 
 
THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 273 
 
 of tne resurrection. This room is about eight feet square, and 
 beautifully ornamented. From this we crept through a narrow 
 aperture in the inner apartment, against the north side of which 
 is the sepulchre in the form of a low altar. It is about the same 
 size as the first, and between the sepulchre and the southern wall, 
 there is barely space to kneel. It was brilliantly lighted by rich 
 and costly lamps. 
 
 " From the sepulchre we were led to see the pillar of flagella- 
 tion, visible through a hole in the wall, but we did not credit the 
 pious imposition. Thence, we ascended to the altar of Calvary, 
 with three holes beneath it, where were planted the crosses upon 
 which the Saviour and the two thieves were crucified. The holes 
 are cut through beautifully polished marble. 1 Near by is a fissure 
 in the limestone rock, caused, it is alleged, by the earthquake 
 which closed the sad drama of the crucifixion. This rent is cer- 
 tainly not an artificial one. Before leaving the church, we visited 
 the tomb of Godfrey of Bouillon, and the place where the true 
 cross, it is said, was found by the Empress Helena. 
 
 " We next determined to visit a spot respecting the identity of 
 which even the mind of the most skeptical can have no room for 
 doubt. Passing through the Damascus gate, we skirted the 
 northern wall, and descending into the valley of Jehoshaphat, 
 and crossing the bridge over the dry bed of the Kidron, we com- 
 menced the ascent of the Mount of Olives. We soon reached 
 the summit, but the scorching heat of a Syrian sun did not per- 
 mit us to enjoy long the magnificent view it afforded. Parts of the 
 Dead Sea were visible, and looking down upon it, we felt proud 
 in being able to say that we were the first thoroughly to explore 
 this sea, which has for ages kept its mysteries buried in the deep 
 bosom of its sullen waters. 
 
 " On our return, we stopped at the garden of Gethsemane, 
 which is held by the Latins, who have enclosed it with a wall. 
 After repeatedly knocking at the gate, we were about to come 
 away, w T hen it was opened by a garrulous old Spaniard, whose 
 
 - 1 The writer was not aware that the surface of the natural rock had 
 been cut away, and marble placed upon it, 
 
274 THE ARMENIAN CONVENT. 
 
 visage was as Gfnarled as the trees we now saw before us. The 
 garden consists of eight enormous olive-trees, their venerable 
 appearance truly typical of old age ; and there can scarcely be a 
 reasonable doubt that this is, indeed, the very place where the 
 Saviour wept and prayed. 
 
 " Crossing the valley of Jehoshaphat, and ascending the slope 
 of Mount Moriah, we passed by the Golden Gate, now walled up 
 by the Turks. Why it is called < golden,' I am unable to say, 
 unless from its rich and elaborate sculpture. 
 
 " We next came to the fountain of the Virgin, which flows 
 through a subterranean passage into the pool of Siloam, and is 
 thence distributed along the slope of the valley. The pool is 
 near the foot of the mount, and is a deep oblong pit, with frag- 
 ments of columns in the centre. There are steps leading down 
 to it on the left side, and the water is muddy and shallow. Here 
 Christ restored the blind man to sight. 
 
 " Re-entering the city through the Jaffa gate, our cicerone 
 declared l by the body of Bacchus' that he would show us the 
 greatest sight in the Holy City. It was the Armenian convent 
 near by. We entered through the portal, and were ushered into 
 an antechamber by a sour-looking old monk, where, in the midst 
 of a crowd of camel- drivers, we waited for permission from the 
 patriarch to see the riches of the convent. We were first shown 
 the portraits of all preceding patriarchs, now canonized as saints 
 in their calendar; while that of the present one w T as the most 
 gorgeously framed — par excellence, the greatest saint of them all. 
 Persons well versed in the art of discolouring canvass had painted 
 these miserable daubs, which, taking the portrait of the present 
 patriarch as a fair criterion, bore not the slightest resemblance to 
 their originals. 
 
 " We then entered the chapel, the chef-d'oeuvre of this costly 
 building. The most tasteful ornaments were the doors, made of 
 tortoise-shell, and inlaid with mother-of-pearl. The walls were 
 of mosaic, representing saints and devils engaged in most furious 
 combats ; but unfortunately, although our cicerone zealously 
 endeavoured to point out which were the saints and which the 
 
VISITORS TO JERUSALEM. 275 
 
 devils, we often fell into a mistake respecting them. We were 
 shown throughout the convent, which is constructed in the well- 
 known Saracenic style of architecture ; and the patriarch long 
 detained us with an account of the improvements he intended to 
 make. 
 
 " We returned to our hotel sorely fatigued, and for lack of 
 better amusement, watched the preparations for dinner with more 
 avidity than would a hungry citizen of Arkansas the like evolutions 
 on board of a western steamboat." 
 
 Jerusalem, its narrow, tortuous streets, with its pavement of 
 large round stones, and its arches and recesses, time-stained and 
 ivy-grown, and the walls of many of the houses, like those of 
 the pavement, a consolidated lime-stone, cream-coloured and 
 streaked with blood-red, has been repeatedly described. 
 
 Visitors to Jerusalem consist, usually, of three classes : — the 
 ignorant and credulous, who are prepared to believe everything ; 
 the conceited and intolerant, who are equally determined to 
 believe nothing ; and the weak and indolent, who side with the 
 last, because it is easier to doubt than to investigate. 
 
 The first listens with greedy ear, and assenting mind, to the 
 most improbable legends. The second, stubborn and querulous, 
 scoffs openly at what he hears, and laughs in his sleeve at the 
 simplicity of those who differ from him. The third, not suffi- 
 ciently ill-natured to sneer, adopts the opinions, without the ma- 
 levolence, of others, who, because they are more positive, he 
 concludes must be the best informed. 
 
 Most of the wall, and all the houses of Jerusalem, were 
 demolished by Titus. Who, therefore, can believe in the assigned 
 localities along the " Via Dolorosa?" Who can credit that here 
 the Virgin Mary was born ; there, the Saviour instituted the 
 sacrament of the last supper ; or that yonder is the house where 
 Pilate sat in judgment? Faith does not require, and true 
 reverence would not be sustained by, such weak credulity. 
 
 But there is a place which, above all others, should be ap- 
 proached with humility,— the church of the Holy Sepulchre; for 
 even the greatest cavillers admit that, if it do not cover all the 
 
276 SACRED LOCALITIES. 
 
 sacred localities assigned to it, some, at least, may lie beneath its 
 roof, and none can be be very far distant from it. 
 
 It is known that early in the second century, the pagan con- 
 querors of Jerusalem erected a statue to Jupiter, on the site of the 
 Holy Sepulchre, and one to Venus, on Mount Calvary ; — thus, 
 the very means taken to obliterate the recollections of those 
 localities, served, as has been often remarked, to perpetuate them. 
 The Christians were never absent from the city, except at its 
 destruction by Titus, when they took refuge, for a short time, in 
 Pella. In less than two centuries after the destruction of the 
 temple, the holy places were restored to them. So that they 
 could not have forgotten them. Can the Jews forget the site of 
 the temple ? 
 
 It is not my purpose to enter into an argument. No one, 
 however, should venture to approach the sacred precincts without 
 learning thus much ; and he who, with this knowledge, enters 
 them with a cavilling spirit, is a heartless scoffer. 
 
 It is true that much occurs in these places calculated to shake 
 the faith of the unstable, who cannot distinguish between what 
 men do and what they are enjoined to do. The Almighty with- 
 held from the Israelites all knowledge of the final resting-place 
 of their great law-giver: may not the same Supreme Wisdom 
 have left us in ignorance of the exact position of places infinitely 
 more sacred, to preserve them from desecration, whether of 
 wanton malice or intemperate zeal ? The possibility that any 
 assigned spot may be the true one, and the certainty that it cannot 
 be very far removed from it, is sufficient to inspire awe in every 
 feeling breast. 
 
 Disgusted with the conduct of many of the pilgrims, in paschal 
 week, without looking to the impelling motive, many come to 
 the sage conclusion that the temple must be an imposture because 
 some of its visitors are disorderly ; — which is about as fair as to 
 judge of the nature of our beautiful institutions by the pugilistic 
 combats which sometimes (thank God, rarely) disgrace our 
 national halls of legislation. 
 
 Intemperate zeal may be as reckless as intoxication from 
 
PRESUMPTUOUS CAVILLING. 277 
 
 drink; — But is the sincere Christian to be, therefore, classed 
 with a fanatic ; or a sober citizen with an inebriate ? At all 
 events, on such a subject, an excess of enthusiasm is preferable 
 to insensibility ; and he who believes and bows down is more to 
 be envied than he that stands scornfully erect because uncon- 
 vinced by so many feet and inches. He who, in such places, 
 employs himself in estimating the sizes of objects, and their exact 
 distances from each other, thereby endeavouring not only to 
 destroy what he persuades himself are the illusions, but absolutely 
 undermining the religious belief, of others, is little better than a 
 heathen. 
 
 There is nothing which so perverts the heart as intellectual 
 pride. The calamities which have most afflicted and debased 
 our race have sprung from the abuse of the free and gifted intel- 
 lect. In the perversity of a corrupt will, and in the excesses of 
 a presumptuous understanding, man has frightfully abused the 
 powers entrusted to him for high and holy purposes. Too often, 
 the extent of human knowledge is the measure of human crime. 
 
 History, revelation, and tradition, unite to teach us that the 
 unchastened will, and the perverted genius, seeking to snatch the 
 forbidden fruit, have been man's first, greatest, unforgiven sin. 
 While other crimes seem rather to excite the pity than to provoke 
 the immediate wrath of heaven, and, by degrading the soaring 
 spirit to the earth, serve to humble its pride, this appears to be a 
 rebellion against Him, who is a jealous God, and who will avenge 
 his cause. From the fall of the son of the morning star, who, in 
 the excess of a presumptuous understanding, dared to wage war 
 "against the throne and monarchy of God," down, through the 
 deserted paths of paradise, to the terrible convulsions of the last 
 century, when an impiety, second only to that of the archangel 
 ruined, met with a punishment scarcely less horrible, we see, 
 everywhere, this frightful lesson written in characters of ruin. 
 
 Yet mind is not like the "corporal rind" with which it is 
 
 " immanacled," subjected to age, and decay, and decrepitude. 
 
 Nor is it refluent in its essence, having a latent power within, or 
 
 a controlling principle without, which proclaims, thus far shalt 
 
 24 
 
278 HUMAN PRIDE. 
 
 thou go, and no farther. It is immortal in its energies and aspir- 
 ings — ever advancing and to advance — soaring still higher and 
 higher with untiring wing, and gaining new scope and vigour 
 from every flight towards Him from whom it descended, and with 
 whose image it is stamped. Limitless and free, its nature is pro- 
 gressive, its spring is upward ; no barrier to check its lofty aspira- 
 tions ; no power to control its daring flight ; no obstacle to stay its 
 resistless progress, but its own wild and erring presumption, its 
 own fiery and impetuous promptings, its own inherent and rebel- 
 lious pride. As long as, with humble heart and chastened will, 
 it seeks the end of its being in the ocean of truth, its stream can 
 never flow backward. 
 
 Such is the law of all intelligence. "The rapt seraph that 
 adores and burns," the chief of the hierarchy of Heaven, the mo- 
 ment he deems himself sufficient for his own support, by that one 
 act of impious self- idolatry, falls, headlong, from his high estate. 
 
 Such is the awful and salutary lesson which we glean from that 
 book, which contains all that is useful in time and hopeful in the 
 future. 
 
 As if to impress indelibly upon the soul of man the terrible 
 consequences of a presumptuous intellect, a jealous Deity has 
 enforced the lesson with special revelations. He has not only 
 bestowed upon us the godlike capacity of reason to collect and 
 compare the fruits of experience in the ages which have been 
 gathered to the past, but he has suspended the arm of the cheru- 
 bim that we might enter the forbidden paths of paradise to read, 
 beneath the tree of knowledge, the price of disobedience. And 
 he has unbarred the gates of heaven itself, that, in the fall of the 
 angelic hosts, we might tremble at the instant and irremediable 
 ruin which followed the single sin of thought. One truth we 
 therefore know, that, unaccompanied with an upright heart and a 
 chastened will, with the morality which springs from religion, the 
 measure of man's intellect is the measure of his ruin. The pride 
 of wealth inspires contempt, and the pride of place awakens re- 
 sentment, — they are human follies, and are punished by human 
 means ; but the pride of intellect, wherein the gifted wars with 
 
FAITH A BLESSING. 279 
 
 the Giver, is a crime which the dread Creator has reserved for 
 special retribution. 
 
 There is a remark of Sir H. Davy, so appropriate to this sub- 
 ject, that I cannot withhold it: — "I envy no quality of the mind 
 or intellect of others, — not genius, wit, nor fancy; but if I could 
 choose what would be the most delightful, and, I believe, most 
 useful to me, I prefer a firm religious belief to any other blessing; 
 for it makes discipline of good, creates new hopes when earthly 
 hopes vanish, and throws over the decay, the destruction of exist- 
 ence, the most gorgeous of all lights ; awakens life in death, and, 
 from corruption and decay, calls up beauty and divinity; makes 
 an instrument of misfortune and of shame the ladder of ascent to 
 paradise, and, far above all combinations of earthly hopes, calls 
 up the most delighful visions of palms and amaranths, — the gar- 
 dens of the blest, and the security of everlasting joys, where the 
 sensualist and the skeptic view only gloom, decay, annihilation, 
 and despair." 
 
 My apology for touching on this subject, which is without my 
 sphere and above my capacity, is the pain I have felt, with others, 
 in witnessing the effects of the cavilling spirit of those who plume 
 themselves on being considered the most literary of modern tra- 
 vellers to the Holy Land. For their peace of mind here, I hope 
 that they may never know how much they have injured a cause, 
 of which some of them are the professed champions; and, for 
 their future welfare, every true Christian will pray that the evil has 
 not been premeditated. I have not meant to reflect upon those 
 who honestly doubt ; for faith is not a product of reason, but a 
 gift, an inspiration from on high. I allude to those whose intel- 
 lectual pride prompts them to parade their own attainments in 
 opposition to, rather than in the search of, truth, — which never 
 shrinks from a fair encounter. In the words of Milton, " Truth 
 is strong, next to the Almighty." The mists of human prejudice 
 cannot long withstand the penetrating light of truth, — which is 
 the purest ray, reflected from the brightest gem in the diadem of 
 the Great Jehovah. 
 
 The present condition and future prospects of Palestine, is a 
 
280 THE JEWS. 
 
 theme too copious for this work, even if it were not above the 
 capacity of its author. I can only express an opinion, founded 
 upon what. I have seen and heard, that the fanaticism of the Turks 
 is fast subsiding, with the rapid diminution of their number, while 
 the Christian and Jewish population is increasing. As yet, this 
 holds good only of the capital. The country traversed by noma- 
 dic tribes, and cultivated but in patches, continues to be as in- 
 secure as it is unproductive. But, like the swelling of the waters 
 which precede the tide of the flood, there are indications of a 
 favourable change. The Muhammedan rule, that political sirocco, 
 which withers all before it, is fast losing the fierce energy which 
 was its peculiar characteristic, and the world is being gradually 
 prepared for the final dismemberment of the Ottoman empire. 
 
 It needs but the destruction of that power which, for so many 
 centuries, has rested like an incubus upon the eastern world, to 
 ensure the restoration of the Jews to Palestine. The increase of 
 toleration ; the assimilation of creeds ; the unanimity with which 
 all works of charity are undertaken, prove, to the observing mind, 
 that, ere long, with every other vestige of bigotry, the prejudices 
 against this unhappy race will be obliterated by a noble and a 
 God-like sympathy. " Many a Thor, with all his eddas, must first 
 be swept into dimness;" — but the time will come. All things 
 are onward ; and, in God's providence, all things are good. 
 
 The fulfilment of the prophecy with regard to the Egyptians 
 ensures the accomplishment of the numerous ones which predict 
 the restoration of the tribes. Besides overwhelming Pharaoh and 
 his host, the Almighty decreed, through Ezekiel, that Egypt 
 should never obey a native sceptre. From Cambyses to the 
 Mamelukes; from Muhammed to Ali Pasha, how wonderfully 
 has this judgment been carried out! 
 
 From the 15th to the 22d of May was devoted to making as- 
 tronomical observations, and reconnoitering the country for the 
 most eligible route to level across to the Mediterranean. All the 
 time not appropriated to duty, was spent in visiting over and over 
 again the interesting localities in and around Jerusalem. Above 
 all others, the spot least doubted, and very far from the least 
 
GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 281 
 
 hallowed, was the garden of Gethsemane. It is enclosed by a 
 high stone wall, and when we saw it, the trees were in blossom ; 
 the clover upon the ground in bloom, and altogether, in its aspect 
 and its associations, was better calculated than any place I know 
 to soothe a troubled spirit. 
 
 Eight venerable trees, isolated from the smaller and less im- 
 posing ones which skirt the base of the Mount of Olives, form 
 a consecrated grove. High above, on either hand, towers a lofty 
 mountain, with the deep, yawning chasm of Jehoshaphat between 
 them. Crowning one of them is Jerusalem, a living city ; on the 
 slope of the other is the great Jewish cemetery, a city of the dead. 
 Each tree in this grove, cankered, and gnarled, and furrowed by 
 age, yet beautiful and impressive in its decay, is a living monu- 
 ment of the affecting scenes that have taken place beneath and 
 around it. The olive perpetuates itself, and from the root of the 
 dying parent stern, the young tree springs into existence. These 
 trees are accounted 1000 years old. Under those of the preced- 
 ing growth, therefore, the Saviour was wont to rest; and one of 
 the present may mark the very spot where he knelt and prayed, 
 and wept. No cavilling doubts can find entrance here. The 
 geographical boundaries are too distinct and clear for an instant's 
 hesitation. Here the Christian, forgetful of the present, and ab- 
 sorbed in the past, can resign himself to sad yet soothing medita- 
 tion. The few purple and crimson flowers, growing about the 
 roots of the trees, will give him ample food for contemplation, for 
 they tell of the suffering life and ensanguined death of the Re- 
 deemer. 
 
 On the same slope and a little below Gethsemane, facing the 
 city, are the reputed tombs of Absalom, Zachariah, St. James, 
 and Jehoshaphat, the last giving its name to the valley. Some 
 of them are hewn bodily from the rock, and the whole form a 
 remarkable group. That of Absalom in particular, from its pecu- 
 liar tint, as well as from its style of architecture, reminded us of 
 the description of the sepulchral monuments of Petra. It is eight 
 feet square, surmounted by a rounded pyramid, and there are 
 24* 
 
282 THE GREAT BURIAL-PLACE. 
 
 six semi-columns to each face, which are of the same mass with 
 the body of the sepulchre. 
 
 The tomb of Zachariah is also hewn square from the rock, and 
 its four sides form a pyramid. The tomb of Jehoshaphat has 
 a handsomely carved door; and a portico with four columns 
 indicates the sepulchre where St. James, the apostle, concealed 
 himself. 
 
 It was in the valley of Jehoshaphat that Melchisedec, king of 
 Salem, met Abraham on his return from defeating the four kings 
 in the vale of Siddim. In the depths of this ravine Moloch was 
 worshipped, beneath the temple of the Most High, which crowned 
 the summit of Mount Moriah. 
 
 In the village of Siloam, the scene of Solomon's apostasy, the 
 living have ejected the dead, and there are as many dwelling in 
 tombs as in houses. Beneath it, at the base of the Mount of 
 Offence, is the great burial-ground, the desired final resting-place 
 of Jews all over the w T orld. The flat stones, rudely sculptured 
 with Hebrew characters, lie, as the tenants beneath were laid, 
 with their faces towards heaven. In the village above it and 
 in the city over against it, the silence is almost as death-like as 
 in the grave-yard itself. Here the voice of hilarity or the hum 
 of social intercourse is never heard, and when man meets his fel- 
 low, there is no social greeting. The air here never vibrates with 
 the melodious voice of woman, the nearest approach to a celestial 
 sound ; but, shrouded from head to foot, she flits about, abashed 
 and shrinking like some guilty thing. This profound silence is 
 in keeping with the scene. Along the slope of the hill, above 
 the village, the Master, on his way to Bethany, was wont to teach 
 his followers the sublime truths of the gospel. On its acclivity, a 
 little more to the north, he wept for the fate of Jerusalem. In 
 the garden below, he was betrayed, and within those city walls 
 he w 7 as crucified. Everything is calculated to inspire with awe, 
 and it is fitting that, except in prayer, the human voice should 
 not disturb these sepulchral solitudes. 
 
 From the slope of the Mount of Olives projects a rock, pointed 
 out by tradition as the one whereon the Saviour sat when he pre- 
 
VIEW FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 283 
 
 dieted and wept over the fate of Jerusalem. It is farther alleged 
 that upon this spot Titus pitched his camp when besieging the 
 city. Neither the prediction nor its accomplishment required such 
 a coincidence to make it impressive. The main camp of the be- 
 siegers was north of the city, but as the sixth legion was posted on 
 the Mount of Olives, the tradition may not be wholly erroneous. 
 
 A little higher, were some grotto-like excavations, hypotheti- 
 cally called the Tombs of the Prophets ; and above them, were 
 some arches, under which, it is said, the Apostles composed the 
 creed. Yet above, the spot is pointed out where the Messiah 
 taught his disciples the Lord's Prayer — that beautiful compend 
 of all that is necessary for man to ask, whether for time or eternity. 
 
 On the summit of the mount are many wheat- fields, and it is 
 crowned with a paltry village, a small mosque, and the ruined 
 church of the Ascension. In the naked rock, which is the floor 
 of the mosque, an indentation is shown as the foot-print of the 
 Messiah, when he ascended to heaven. Apart from the sites of 
 the Temple, of Calvary, and of the Holy Sepulchre, the assigned 
 localities within the city walls, such as the Arch of the Ecce 
 Homo, and the house of the rich man before whose gate Lazarus 
 lay, are unworthy of credit. But those without the walls, like 
 the three first-named within them, are geographically defined, 
 and of imperishable materials. While one, therefore, may not 
 be convinced with regard to all, he feels that the traditions 
 respecting them are not wholly improbable. 
 
 From the summit, the view was magnificent. On the one 
 hand lay Jerusalem, with its yellow walls, its towers, its churches, 
 its dome-roof houses, and its hills and valleys, covered with 
 orchards and fields of green and golden grain, while beneath, 
 distinct and near, the mosque of Omar, the Harem ! (the Sacred !) 
 lay exposed to our infidel gaze, with its verdant carpet and groves 
 of cypress, beneath whose holy shade none but the faithful can 
 seek repose. On the other hand was the valley of the Jordan, a 
 barren plain, with a line of verdure marking the course of the 
 sacred river, until it was lost in an expanse of sluggish water, 
 which we recognised as the familiar scene of our recent labours. 
 
284 A COXCOMB OUT OF PLACE. 
 
 The rays of the descending sun shone full upon the Arabian 
 shore, and we could see the castle of Kerak, perched high up in 
 the country of Moab, and the black chasm of Zerka, through 
 which flows the hot and sulphureous stream of Callirohoe. 
 
 No other spot in the w T orld commands a view so desolate, and, 
 at the same time, so interesting and impressive. The yawning 
 ravine of Jehoshaphat, immediately beneath, was verdant w T ith 
 vegetation, which became less and less luxuriant, until, a few 
 miles below, it was lost in a huge torrent-bed, its sides bare pre- 
 cipitous rock, and its bed covered with boulders, whitened with 
 saline deposit, and calcined by the heat of a Syrian sun. Beyond 
 it, south, stretched the desert of Judea ; and to the north, was 
 the continuous chain of this almost barren mountain. These 
 mountains were not always thus barren and unproductive. The 
 remains of terraces yet upon their slopes, prove that this country, 
 now almost depopulated, once maintained a numerous and indus- 
 trious people. 
 
 North of Gethsemane, nearer the bed of the ravine and the 
 one-arched bridge which spans it, is a subterranean church, in a 
 grotto reputed to contain the tomb of the Virgin Mary. Having 
 no faith in the tradition, which is based on an improbable legend, 
 I did not visit it ; but in passing by, accoutred in a soiled and 
 salt-encrusted dress, the only one I had, I saw T a European fop 
 ascending the flight of steps, attired in a short frock, tightly-fitting 
 pants, a jockey-cap upon his head, a riding- whip in his hand, and 
 the lines of his face wreathed in a smile of smirking self-conceit, 
 — not one feature of the man or his dress in keeping with the 
 scenes around him. 
 
 H. B. M. Consul, Mr. Finn, as I have before said, kindly 
 took charge of the money I sent to him ; and, furthermore, put 
 himself to great trouble in paying the drafts which, from time to 
 time, I made upon it; and, also, in forwarding provisions to our 
 depot at Ain Jidy. In all matters of business, he w T as as attentive 
 as he could have been w T ere he our own consular representative. 
 But from none of the foreign residents in Jerusalem did we 
 receive the slightest personal attention. This I ascribe to the 
 
CIRCUIT OF THE CITY. 285 
 
 condition of our wardrobe. Before commencing the descent of 
 the Jordan, we had been compelled to send back from Tiberias 
 everything that could possibly be dispensed with. Each one, 
 officer and man, retained only the suit he wore, with a change of 
 linen ; and, whenever circumstances permitted, did his own 
 washing. Sometimes, when both of those garments required the 
 process, we lay in the water until one of them had dried. From 
 an indifferent tailor, we procured a few articles of dress a short 
 time previous to our departure from Jerusalem, but had to be 
 economical, in order to reserve what money remained for the 
 necessary expenses of the expedition. I mention the circum- 
 stance, not as a matter of complaint, but to account to any of 
 those gentlemen who may see this, for our toil-worn and shabby 
 appearance 
 
 Returning from the Mount of Olives, we passed along the hill 
 of Zion, and made another circuit of the city. 
 
 A little below the gate of St. Stephen is the pool of Bethesda, 
 where our Saviour healed the paralytic. It is now dry, and 
 partly filled with rubbish. 
 
 Yet farther south, in the face of the eastern wall, near the court 
 of the mosque of Omar, is the Golden gate, now built up. 
 Through this gate, it is supposed, the Messiah entered in triumph 
 on the Sunday preceding his crucifixion. 
 
 Some distance down, is the Fountain of the Virgin ; and yet 
 farther below, the pool of Siloam, which has been mentioned be- 
 fore. The water, which is hard and unpalatable to the taste, has 
 no regular current, but ebbs and flows at intervals of a few 
 minutes. 
 
 North of the city, on the margin of the Damascus road, was a 
 picturesque scene — hundreds of Jews, enjoying the fresh air, 
 seated under enormous olive-trees — the women all in white 
 shrouds, the men in various costumes — some with broad-brimmed 
 black hats, and many with fa caps. There were also many 
 Turks and Christians abroad. The Jewesses, while their figures 
 were enveloped in loose and uncomely robes, allowed their faces 
 to be seen ; and the Christian and the Turkish female exhibited, 
 
286 THE CITY WALLS. 
 
 the one, perhaps, too much, the other, nothing whatever of her 
 person and attire. There was also a marriage-procession, which 
 was more funereal than festive. The women, as usual, clothed all 
 in white, like so many spectres, chaunted unintelligibly, in a low, 
 monotonous, wailing tone; while some, apparently the most 
 antique, for they tottered most, closed each bar with a scream 
 like a diapason. The least natural and the most pompous feature 
 of the scene, was the foreign consuls, promenading with their 
 families, preceded by Janissaries, with silver-mounted batons, 
 stalking solemnly along, like so many drum-majors of a marching 
 regiment. As the sun sank behind the western hills, the pedes- 
 trians walked faster, and the sitters gathered themselves up and 
 hastened within the walls. 
 
 The present walls of the city were rebuilt in the 16th century, 
 and vary from thirty to sixty or seventy feet in height, according 
 to the inequalities of the ground. They are about ten feet thick 
 at the base, narrowing to the top. The stones are evidently of 
 different eras, extending back to the period of Roman sway, if 
 not to the time when Judea was an independent kingdom. Some 
 massive pieces, near the south-eastern angle, bear marks of great 
 antiquity. From a projecting one, the Turks have a prediction 
 that Muhammed, their Prophet, will judge his followers. We 
 have also a prediction respecting this vicinity which will prove as 
 true as the other is fabulous. It is up the valley of Jehoshaphat 
 that the prophet Joel declares the quick and the dead shall come 
 to judgment. 
 
 On the third day after our arrival, we went to Bethlehem, two 
 hours distant. Going out of the Jaffa gate, and obliquely 
 descending the western flank of Mount Zion, we crossed the val- 
 ley of the son of Hinnom (Wady Gehenna, or valley of Hell), by 
 the wall of the lower pool of Gihon. The road then turned 
 southwardly, and ran mostly parallel with the aqueduct from 
 Solomon's pools. This aqueduct consists of stones hollowed 
 into cylinders, well cemented at the joints, and supported upon 
 walls or terraces of rock or earth, and mostly concealed from 
 
AN OUTSIDE EXCURSION. 287 
 
 sight. Here and there, a more than usual luxuriance of vege- 
 tation indicated places where water was drawn from it to irrigate 
 the olive orchards which, for much of the way, abounded on our 
 left ; and, occasionally, a stone drawn aside disclosed a fracture 
 in the trough beneath, where the traveller might quench his 
 thirst. 
 
 We soon came to the well of the Magi, assigned by tradition 
 as the spot where the star reappeared to the wise men from the 
 east. The country on our left was here broken and rough, and 
 on the right was the plain of Rephaim, with the convent of John 
 the Baptist, erected on the spot where the great precursor was 
 born, and the grotto where the Virgin Maiy pronounced that sub- 
 lime hymn, beginning "My soul doth magnify the Lord." We 
 next came to the tomb of Rachel, in the plain of Ramah, — a 
 modern Turkish building, but the locality of which is believed to 
 be correctly assigned. It is a small building, with two apartments, 
 the one over the tomb being surmounted by a dome. On the 
 right was the wilderness of St. John, wherein the Baptist practised 
 his austerities. In that direction, too, is the valley of Elah, w T here 
 David slew the giant ; and in the valley before us, it is said the 
 army of Sennacherib the Assyrian was encamped, when 
 
 "The angel of death spread his wings on the blast." 
 
 Ascending the hill from the tomb, and for the second time during 
 the ride recognising the Dead Sea through gorges in the moun- 
 tains, we passed some extensive olive orchards, and after turning 
 aside to the left to look at a nearly dry cistern called David's 
 Well, and admiring the luxuriant groves of olives and figs, and 
 the many vineyards which beautify the head of the ravine of 
 Ta'arairah, we entered Bethlehem, the birth-place of the Re- 
 deemer; and went direct to the Franciscan convent, a large, 
 massive, and ancient building. The church w T ithin it, erected 
 by the Empress Helena, is in the form of a cross. It is supported 
 by four rows of twelve columns each, without a ceiling, and 
 presented the appearance of a net-work of longitudinal and 
 
288 BETHLEHEM. 
 
 transverse beams of wood, with the roof above them. But this 
 church, and the grotto of the Nativity within it, has been repeat- 
 edly and accurately described. 
 
 Many visitors to Bethlehem have persuaded themselves, to use 
 the words of a recent one, " that the Saviour was not born in a 
 subterraneous cavern like this, difficult of access to cattle, but. in 
 an approachable stable attached to the khan, or inn, in which the 
 virgin mother could not be accommodated." Without dwelling 
 on our own observation of the frequent and almost universal 
 appropriation, where practicable, of caverns and recesses in the 
 rocks for sheltering man and beast from the heat and inclemency 
 of the weather, and forbearing to quote from Stephens, whose 
 experience was similar to our own, I extract some passages from 
 Calmet's dissertation upon the habitations of the ancient Hebrews, 
 to show that such places were frequently selected as desirable 
 human dwellings. 
 
 "The rocks and the caverns were not only places of retreat, 
 and forts against enemies, in times of war and trouble ; they 
 w T ere also ordinary dwelling-places, both commodious and agree- 
 able, in the country of the Israelites. On the coasts of the Red 
 Sea and the Persian Gulf, in the mountains of Armenia, in the 
 Balearic Islands, and in the isle of Malta, we learn that certain 
 people had no other homes than the hollows of the rocks, scooped 
 out by their own labours ; from w T hich circumstance they took the 
 name of Troglodytes, which signifies, in Greek, those who hide 
 themselves in caverns. 
 
 " In short, they were the ordinary retreat of the prophets and 
 the just in times of persecution, to avoid the machinations of the 
 w T icked ; and in times of peace, to fly from the corruptions of the 
 world, and to exercise themselves in practices of piety and 
 prayer. It was this mode of life that Elias, St. John the Baptist, 
 and Jesus Christ adopted. 
 
 " The summer habitations were of various kinds, or rather, 
 they had various means of protecting themselves from the extreme 
 heat of the sun. Sometimes it was in places deep and hidden, 
 
PLEASING SCENE. 289 
 
 where its ardour could not penetrate, under crypts, subterranean 
 porticoes, &c." l 
 
 To the east of Bethlehem is the hill where the shepherds heard 
 the annunciation of the birth of the Messiah ; and in the plain 
 below, the field where Ruth gleaned after the reapers. The 
 country around was luxuriant with vegetation, and the yellow 
 grain, even as we looked, was falling beneath the sickle. Varie- 
 gated flint, chalk and limestone, without fossils, cropped out 
 occasionally on the hill-sides ; but along the lower slopes, and in 
 the bottom of the valley, were continuous groves, with a verdant 
 carpet beneath them. It was the most rural and the loveliest 
 spot we had seen in Palestine. From among many flowers we 
 gathered a beautiful white one, free from all earthly taint, fit em- 
 blem of the purity of the infant Godhead. 
 
 In the Latin convent at Jerusalem, poor pilgrims are allowed 
 to remain thirty days, with two meals a- day, free of cost ; in the 
 one at Bethlehem, three days ; and at Ramleh, one day. No 
 Frank is permitted to hold real estate in Palestine, or, I believe, 
 in any part of the Turkish dominions. In the country around 
 Jerusalem, olives, figs, wheat, barley, dhoura, lentils, melons, 
 cucumbers, artichokes, and many leguminous plants and Irish 
 potatoes are cultivated ; the last in small, experimental patches. 
 The silk-worm is also reared, and some little silk is made. 
 
 1 Those who wish to see more on the subject, are referred lo Pliny, lib. 
 vi. c. 29. Strabo, lib. xi. c. 26. Diodorus Siculus, lib. v. Josephus' 
 Antiq., lib. xiv. c. 27, where he speaks of the caverns of Galilee. Gene- 
 sis, xix. 30. Judges, xv. 8. 1 Kings, x. 11; xxiv. 4. Judges, vi. Z. 
 1 Kings, xiii. 6; xviii. 4. Hebrews, xi. 38. 
 
 25 
 
290 DEPARTURE FROM JERUSALEM. 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 FROM JERUSALEM TO JAFFA. 
 
 Monday, May 22. Having completed all the necessary arrange- 
 ments, given the officers and men time to recruit, and to see 
 Jerusalem and its vicinity, broke up the camp, and started to run 
 the line of level across to the Mediterranean, thirty-three miles 
 distant, in a direct line. The desert being passed, we substituted 
 mules for camels, to transport our baggage. 
 
 We recommenced levelling from the bench-mark we had made 
 north-west of Jerusalem, and carried the line to the highest point, 
 but little less than four thousand feet above the surface of the Dead 
 Sea, before skirting down the Wady Liifte. 
 
 The vegetation increased in luxuriance, and in vividness of 
 colour, as we descended. The mountain-sides were cut in ter- 
 races, many of them but a few yards wide, bearing olive, fig, and 
 apricot trees, and numerous extensive vineyards. 
 
 On the second day we passed a ruin, pointed out as the castle 
 of the Macchabees ; and among the hills around, it is supposed 
 that the Virgin visited the mother of the Baptist. In our route, 
 we may have crossed the dry bed of the brook where David 
 gathered the pebbles, with one of which he slew the Philistine, 
 and passed the site of the village of Emmaus, on the road to 
 which our Saviour conversed with two of his disciples after his 
 resurrection. 
 
 When abreast of a village, in which were the ruins of a Chris- 
 tian church, an old Arab called out, " O ye Muslims, come forth 
 and see the Christians searching for treasures concealed by their 
 forefathers in this country." Great curiosity was exhibited by 
 the people with respect to our operations. All desired to look 
 through the telescope, and even little children were held up for a 
 peep. 
 
THE VALE OF SHARON. 29] 
 
 The road led over high ridges ; the vegetation extremely luxu- 
 riant, and the hill-sides terraced, with many vines and fig-trees, 
 and groves of olive on each side. The olive is only picturesque 
 in clusters. Individually it is an ungainly tree. With the 
 appearance of greater strength than the oak, its branches are less 
 graceful, and its leaves are smaller and less vivid in colour. 
 The old trunks, gnarled and twisted, present to the eye vast 
 bodies with disproportioned limbs. Those which are partially 
 decayed are protected by stones piled up in the hollows. 
 
 From the summit of the highest ridge, through the mist which 
 curtained it in the distance, we beheld the blue, the glorious 
 Mediterranean. Not the soldiers of Xenophon cheered more 
 heartily than we did, when we beheld its broad expanse stretching 
 towards the west, where lay our country and our homes. 
 
 The whole face of the country since leaving Jerusalem bore 
 evidence of a high state of cultivation, and after the calcined 
 cliffs of the Dead Sea and the utter barrenness of the desert of 
 Judea, our senses were soothed by the soft and refreshing green 
 of these terraced hills. 
 
 On the fifth day descended the dreadful road which leads down 
 Wady Ali, and through Bab Wady Ali, (Gate of the Ravine of 
 Ali), issued out upon the vale of Sharon, covered with immense 
 fields of ripened grain ; the thick, clustering stems bending to 
 the breeze, and their golden surfaces chequered with the shadows 
 of passing clouds. Behind us were the rugged mountains; 
 before us the lovely plain, dotted with villages, and covered with 
 a whole population gathering the harvest ; and beyond, in the 
 distance, the far-stretching sea, over which lay our homeward 
 route. In the ravine, we saw in great profusion the corn poppy, 
 its bright scarlet flowers presenting a gorgeous appearance. The 
 acacia was also abundant. 
 
 Long before sunrise, the next day, the industrious fellahin were 
 at work in the fields. The scene was pastoral and picturesque. 
 The herdsmen, with their flocks of black goats on the hill-sides, 
 the cattle grazing below them ; the reapers among the grain, and 
 the women gleaning after them ; while an armed Nubian guard sat 
 
292 GAZA. 
 
 under the shadow of a tree, his ample costume setting off his jet- 
 black skin. A light wind played in the loose folds of his white 
 aba, and thence sweeping on, bowed down the heads of the 
 unreaped barley, presenting an appearance like the surface of a 
 still lake, when clouds are drifting over it. 
 
 We soon passed the Bir Dier Ayoub, the road, which was yet 
 but a bridle-path, becoming better, and the mountains receding 
 on each side, and giving at once an almost uninterrupted view 
 of the plain. On the summit of a lofty hill before us, was the 
 village of Latmn (Thief), named by tradition as the birth-place 
 of the repentant thief upon the cross. Instead of following the 
 road over the hill and through the village, we skirted its southern 
 base, and passing the well, struck first into the Gaza road, and 
 then into the usual road to Ramleh. 
 
 Gaza, the famous town of the Philistines, renowned for the 
 feats of Samson, was in a direct line, about thirty miles distant. 
 Once the residence of a king, it is now a paltry village. It was 
 taken by Alexander the Great, after a siege of two months ; and 
 Quintus Curtius relates that, in imitation of Achilles, the un- 
 generous conqueror, who was twice wounded during the siege, 
 dragged twice round the walls, at his chariot-wheels, the body 
 of the general who had gallantly defended it. 
 
 Pursuing the road to Ramleh, we crossed Merj ibn 'Amir, an 
 extensive plain under high cultivation. The scene must have 
 been similar to those of the days of Scripture. Below the village, 
 and on the sides of the hill, the fields, in some spots, were yellow 
 with the ripened grain ; in others, large quantities, newly reaped, 
 were spread upon the threshing-floors, and the cattle, yoked in 
 couples, were treading it out, and the whole population of the vil- 
 lage was at work, reaping, gleaning, tossing in the sheaves, or 
 raking aside the chaff. 
 
 The small, square houses of all the villages, were of uncut 
 stones, cemented and plastered with mud, and with flat, mud 
 roofs. The mud floors are usually several feet below the surface 
 of the ground ; and the only aperture in the walls is the low and 
 narrow doorway. Through the last, a stream of smoke is ever 
 
EAMLEH. 293 
 
 issuing, tainted with the foetid odour of the fuel, the sun-dried 
 excrement of the camel ; which is so offensive, that the deaf and 
 the blind detect with their nostrils, the impregnated atmo- 
 sphere of a village. The habits of the people are as filthy as 
 their dwellings are uncomfortable, and it is not surprising that, 
 with all their simplicity of life, there are so few instances of lon- 
 gevity. 
 
 The town of Ramleh, seated in the plain, with its tower, its 
 minarets, its ruins, and its palm-trees, looked more like an oriental 
 city, than any we had seen in Palestine. In this plain, according 
 to tradition, the infant Saviour, the Virgin, and St. Joseph, passed 
 a night, in their flight to Egypt. 
 
 Ramleh is the only place in the interior of Palestine where the 
 American flag is permitted to fly. There were fine olive-groves, 
 and many cypresses, around the town; and beyond, a lovely 
 plain, bounded by a range of mountains on one hand, and the 
 Mediterranean on the other. 
 
 Ramleh is supposed to have been the Rama-Ephraim of the 
 Old Testament, where Samuel judged the people, and where the 
 elders assembled to demand a king. It has now a large convent, 
 rebuilt, it is said, by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. 
 
 Proceeding along the plain of Beth Dagon, we passed Lyd, 
 the Lydda of the New Testament, and the Diospolis of the Ro- 
 mans, where St. Peter miraculouslv cured the man afflicted with 
 the palsy. 
 
 The uncultivated parts of the plain were beautified by the violet 
 purple flowers of the plumbago, which grows more luxuriantly 
 here than in southern Europe, the heads of the flowers being much 
 longer, and the colours more vivid. 
 
 At the village of Yazur, we turned to the left and followed the 
 Frank road, the one on which Napoleon marched to and from 
 Gaza. There were a number of people in the fields, but not 
 many travellers on the road. Some wandering dervishes, bearing 
 banners, and a few returning Christian pilgrims, passed us in the 
 course of the morning. Pursuing thence nearly a due-west course, 
 we came out on the sand-hills, and planted the level on the mar- 
 25* 
 
294 SUCCESS OF OUR LEVELLING. 
 
 gin of the Mediterranean, about one and a half miles south of 
 Jaffa. The task was at length accomplished. We had carried a 
 line of levels, with the spirit-level, from the chasm of the Dead 
 Sea, through the Desert of Judea, over precipices and mountain- 
 ridges, and down and across yawning ravines, and for much of the 
 time beneath a scorching sun. It had been considered by many 
 as impracticable. It has, however, been accomplished ; and with 
 as much accuracy as, I believe, it can be done. The instrument 
 was a capital one of Troughton's, imported by Blunt. It was of 
 the most recent construction, with staves to be read off by the 
 observer. The adjustments of the instruments were frequently 
 examined, and we were careful to make the observations as nearly 
 mid- way as possible. The whole credit of this is due to Lieu- 
 tenant Dale, to whom, in full confidence of his zeal and capacity, 
 I assigned the task of levelling. The result is confirmatory of 
 the skill and extraordinary accuracy of the triangulation of Lieu- 
 tenant Symonds, R. N. 
 
 We found the difference of level, in other words, the depres- 
 sion of the surface of the Dead Sea, below that of the Mediter- 
 ranean, to be a little over 1300 feet. The height of Jerusalem 
 above the former sea, is very nearly three times that of this differ- 
 ence of level, while, at the same time, it is almost the exact mul- 
 tiple of the depth of that sea, of the height of its banks, and of the 
 depression of its surface. 
 
 Our work accomplished, we repaired to the country-house of 
 Mr. Murad, our worthy consular representative, who had kindly 
 placed it at our disposal. 
 
 It was a delightful spot to recruit in, after our fatigue. A 
 great many swallows were flying in and out, and twittering over 
 our heads, in the open alcove we selected for our bed-chamber. 
 We had been so long accustomed to camping in the open air, 
 that we could not reconcile ourselves to sleeping in a room ; 
 moreover, we felt more secure from insects, away from apartments 
 that had recently been inhabited. 
 
 We remained in the quarters so hospitably assigned to us until 
 the 6th of June ; and found full occupation in bringing up our 
 
EXILED EGYPTIANS. 295 
 
 work, particularly the astronomical and barometrical observations, 
 and the measurement of the level, and rebuilding our boats by 
 putting their sections together. The physical repose was truly 
 grateful. 
 
 To the north of the town, a short distance from the gate, for 
 Jaffa has but one, and immediately upon the sea shore, is a vil- 
 lage inhabited by Copts. These people followed Ibrahim Pasha 
 from Egypt, but since the restoration of the country to Ottoman 
 sway they have been driven from the town, and live in their poor 
 mud village with the sea before and a graveyard behind them. 
 Possessing no means of transportation over the first, along which 
 they must often wistfully gaze towards their native country, the 
 last remains as their only refuge from hunger, oppression, and 
 unrewarded toil. Their complexions are dark, but the dress of 
 the men differs in no respect from that of Arabs of the lowest 
 class. The women wear a triangular piece of thin dark cloth 
 suspended from the forehead, sometimes fringed with coins, and 
 concealing the nose, mouth, and chin. 
 
 In another graveyard to the left was an Egyptian woman at 
 her devotions. Eastern women are rarely seen to pray by tra- 
 vellers. Like the majority of their sex all over the world, they 
 seem to shrink from public exhibition. Once before, in a Turkish 
 burial-ground just without St. Stephen's gate, Jerusalem, I saw 
 some black slaves making their prostrations before a tomb, but 
 could not tell whether they were worshipping God, or paying 
 homage to the shade of their master. The real belief of Muham- 
 medans with regard to the future prospects of women, I have 
 never been able to ascertain. The vulgar idea that they are 
 denied the possession of souls by the Koran, is, however, an 
 incorrect one. Muhammed named four as worthy of Paradise. 
 But it is impossible, for a Christian at least, to obtain satisfac- 
 tory information from a native on this subject. They never speak 
 of their women to strangers, and consider any allusion to them 
 as insulting. 'Awad, our guide, was the only one who would 
 answer our questions in this matter, and he did it with perceptible 
 reluctance. Indeed, all the Arabs with whom w r e have been 
 
296 THROWING THE DJERID. 
 
 associated, and they were many and of various tribes, were very 
 reserved about their domestic affairs, and more evasive even than 
 our eastern brethren in their replies to questions of a personal 
 nature. I have never known them to give a direct answer to a 
 question pertaining to their families or themselves. When asked 
 how he is, an Arab replies, "Thanks be to God!" When the 
 question is repeated, he says, " God is great!" and if asked the 
 third time, his reply is, " God is bountiful !" 
 
 On the sands of the sea, a little beyond the Coptic village, the 
 Pasha of Jerusalem, with a number of his officers and attendants, 
 were jousting and throwing the djerid. They were mounted on 
 spirited horses, drawn up in two lines, facing each other, about 
 150 yards apart. A single horseman would leave his ranks, cross 
 the intervening space, and ride leisurely along in front of the op- 
 posite line, when, selecting his opponent, he quickly threw his 
 djerid, or short, blunted, wooden spear, directly at him. The 
 latter, generally dodging the weapon, immediately started in hot 
 pursuit of his antagonist, w 7 ho, now unarmed, spurred his horse 
 towards his friends, and, to avoid the threatened blow, threw 
 himself nearly from the steed, hanging by one leg, exactly in the 
 manner of our Blackfoot Indians, and the inhabitants of the 
 Pampas of South America. If the assailed were struck with the 
 first cast, one of his party pursued the assailant ; and if successful 
 in striking him, it became his turn to flee from an adversary. It 
 is a manly and a beautiful game, and excited us as we looked 
 upon it. How much more so must it have been to those who 
 were engaged in it! The noble black charger of the Pasha 
 seemed to devour the wind, and not one escaped the unerring 
 aim of his rider. There was no sycophancy, however ; for, less 
 successful in retreat than pursuit, the Pasha was repeatedly struck 
 before he regained his place. 
 
 Immediately in front of the gate were a number of fruit-sellers, 
 some bazaars, and a new khan under construction, with a throng 
 of people moving rapidly to and fro, indicating more activity of 
 trade than we had seen since leaving Beirut. Just before enter- 
 ing, we stopped to let a funeral procession pass. It was quite a 
 
NOTICES OF JAFFA. 297 
 
 long one, and consisted wholly of females. They were wailing 
 in the same monotonous tone as those we saw in a similar pro- 
 cession at Jerusalem. It is the custom for the relatives and 
 friends, for three consecutive days, to repair in procession to, 
 and weep over, the grave of the deceased. 
 
 Just within the gate, on the right, is a very handsome fountain, 
 with elaborate carved- work about it. Passing through lines of 
 bazaars, and by a mosque with a large court, and handsome 
 fountain on the right, and thence threading narrow, unpaved 
 streets, cumbered with rubbish, which seemed to have no precise 
 direction, and to lead to no particular place, and twice descend- 
 ing steps where Putnam might have hesitated, with a foe behind 
 him, but down which our horses walked as carefully as we could 
 have done ourselves, we at length reached the residence of our 
 consul, immediately overlooking the harbour. There were some 
 thirty or forty small polacre vessels in the port, which is protected 
 by a reef of rocks to the westward. This reef is generally sup- 
 posed to be the remains of a breakwater, built by the Emperor 
 Adrian ; but to me the reef presented a natural aspect. I could 
 detect no vestiges of an ancient mole, and have not been able to 
 find any historical account of an artificial harbour being formed 
 here. On the contrary, Josephus speaks of the dangers of the 
 anchorage, caused by a number of rocks off the town. 
 
 Our worthy consular representative is a Syrian by birth and an 
 Armenian in faith. He was dressed in the oriental style, and 
 received us hospitably and kindly. For upwards of twenty years 
 he has been in the service of our government ; in the first place 
 as an assistant, and subsequently as the successor of his father. 
 
 Jaffa is, perhaps, the oldest city in the world ; and Pliny calls 
 it an antediluvian one. Here, in mythology, iindromeda was 
 chained to a rock, and exposed to the embraces of a sea-monster. 
 
 History fixes upon this as the landing-place of the crusaders, 
 subsequently fortified by St. Louis. Within its Armenian convent 
 Napoleon touched the sick infected with the plague, and without 
 its walls massacred his prisoners in cold blood; and here Ibrahim 
 Pasha sought refuge from the Arab tribes, whom he had driven 
 
298 AN ARMENIAN LADY. 
 
 to desperation. According to tradition, here Noah built the ark^ 
 and from its port Jonas embarked ; on these shores were landed 
 the cedars of Lebanon, brought for the building of the temple ; 
 and in it was the house of Simon the tanner, with whom the first 
 of the apostles dwelt. We visited the site of the last, which is 
 upon the sea-side, exactly accordant with the description. There 
 is a sarcophagus in the yard, used as a reservoir to the fountain. 
 It is said to have belonged to the family of Simon. Quien sabe ? 
 Who knows ? Who can believe ? and who can contradict it ? 
 The population of Jaffa is now about 13,000, viz: Turks, 8000; 
 Greeks, 2000 ; Armenians, 2000 ; Maronites, 700 ; and Jews, 
 about 300. 
 
 The consul's dinner was an extremely plentiful one, consisting 
 of a great variety of dishes, many of them unknow T n to us, pre- 
 pared in the Eastern style. His wife, in compliment to us, for 
 the first time in her life, sat down to a table with strangers. She 
 had a sweet countenance, and her profile was a beautiful one. 
 She was timid, yet dignified in her manners ; the wave of her 
 hand was particularly graceful, and her voice soft and gentle, — 
 " an excellent thing in woman." She was dressed richly, 
 according to the fashion of her country. Her head was orna- 
 mented with diamonds, in clusters of leaves and flowers ; and on 
 her finger was a magnificent ruby encircled with brilliants. When 
 she turned to address those who were waiting behind her, we 
 were particularly struck with the exquisite contour and flexure 
 of her head and throat. A master-artist would have painted her 
 so, and called her the heroine of some historic scene. From time 
 to time, she helped us to morsels from her own plate ; a marked 
 compliment, founded on a custom, which, under other circum- 
 stances, we should have thought " more honoured in the breach 
 than the observance ;" but her manner was so gentle and so win- 
 ning, and her smile so irresistible, that, had it been physic instead 
 of palatable food, we should have swallow r ed it without hesitation. 
 For the first time within many months, we felt the soothing and 
 refining influence of the society of the other sex. 
 
 Members of the family acted as waiters, it being the custom 
 
A BRIDAL PROCESSION. 299 
 
 when it is intended to pay the highest honour to a guest. Con- 
 scious of not deserving it in that sense, we received it as a tribute 
 to the exalted character of our country, and as an evidence of 
 the patriotism of our worthy host ; — and a more patriotic, unas- 
 suming, and truly hospitable representative of that country I have 
 never seen. He stowed our boats in his warehouse, and placed 
 his country-house at our disposal. His residence in town was 
 our familiar resort, and we ever found a heartfelt welcome at his 
 table. He spared no trouble ; hesitated at no expense ; and, at 
 the settlement of the accounts, refused all compensation whatever. 
 Mr. Stephens says that he is the only man he has ever known to 
 declare himself happy. I can safely add that he is the only one 
 whom I thought truly so. Many there are who ought to be, but 
 I have never before met with one who rightly appreciated the 
 blessings he enjoyed. 
 
 While at dinner, we heard sung in the street the same song of 
 the wild Ta'amirah, to which we had so often listened on the 
 shores of the Dead Sea. Heretofore invariably discordant, it now 
 sounded almost melodious. 
 
 In the afternoon, there was a marriage-procession ; the bride 
 being escorted to her future home by her husband and his friends. 
 First came the groom, with a number of his male friends, walking 
 two abreast ; then a gorgeous silken canopy, beneath which 
 walked the bride, her person entirely screened. On each side 
 was a man with a drawn sword in his hand, suggesting to the 
 mind thoughts about a lamb led to the sacrifice, or of a criminal 
 conducted to execution. Behind the canopy, in the same order 
 as the men who preceded it, were a number of females of various 
 ages. There were also many attendants with musical instruments. 
 The monotonous twanging sound of the last, mingled with the 
 shouts of the men ; the whining tones and occasional screams of 
 the women ; and the flourishes of the swords by those who bore 
 them, presented a singular spectacle ; a most extraordinary vocal 
 and instrumental concert, with a yet stranger accompaniment. 
 
 We learned from our Consul, that the Turks treat their wives 
 very badly. In consequence of the power vested in the husband 
 
300 TREATMENT OF WOMEN. 
 
 to divorce at will, there is no community of interest between man 
 and wife. The latter, not knowing at what moment the dreadful 
 word may be pronounced, is ever laying by something for such a 
 contingency, of which her mother is usually the depository. 
 Hence, the husband, in self-defence, rarely provides groceries or 
 food in any quantity, of which the wife would certainly sell a 
 portion, and retain the proceeds. In the vicinity of towns, there- 
 fore, and we have frequently observed it, Turks may be seen 
 returning home with a little oil, and a small quantity of provisions, 
 for the day's consumption. 
 
 It is true, that if the wife be divorced for any other cause than 
 infidelity, she can claim her dower, — that is, the sum paid for 
 her by her husband, if it had been returned to him, which is 
 rarely the case. But her youth, and with it, all her attractions, 
 had probably passed away ; and what is the most severe part of 
 the infliction, the children, in such an event, remain subject to 
 the father's control. The wife can also obtain divorce ; and in 
 Constantinople there is a singular female court to which she may 
 appeal, but its jurisdiction, like the edict with regard to slavery, 
 is nominal, and the rights of woman and the slave are alike dis- 
 regarded. 
 
 All over the world, civilized and savage, women are treated as 
 inferior beings. In what is esteemed refined society, we hold 
 them in mental thraldom, while we exempt them from bodily 
 labour; and, paying a sensual worship to their persons, treat 
 them as pretty playthings. 
 
 The law of inheritance, in the Turkish dominions, recognises 
 no right whatever in the female. On the death of the father, if 
 there be one son and one or more daughters, the son inherits all 
 the property. If two or more sons, it is portioned equally among 
 them ; but, in either case, the daughters have no share. 
 
 On the 5th of June we dined with Dr. Kay at, H. B. M. Con- 
 sul. The dishes were excellent and most abundant; — among 
 them a lamb, roasted whole — and the attendance was a miracle 
 for Syrian servants. The dress of the hostess, a perfect lady in 
 her manners and appearance, was a singular dovetailing of the 
 
A SYRIAN LADY. 301 
 
 oriental with the European costume. Her hair, flowing beneath 
 her head-dress of cerulean silk, ornamented with crimson and 
 surmounted by a gold-embroidered crown, was internetted with 
 minute spiculoe of gold about the size of a spangle, and fell like 
 the fabulous tiara of a mermaid upon her shoulders. Her neck, 
 at least so much of it as could be seen, for the lady was not slightly 
 moulded, was encircled with a string of golden ornaments in the 
 forms of claws of animals, altogether reminding one of the neck- 
 lace of a Tuscarora belle. Her fingers sparkled with rings of 
 emerald, ruby and diamond, and an amethystine silk dress, made 
 in the European style, with neat slippers upon the feet, completed 
 her costume. She presided with quiet dignity and becoming 
 grace, and the conversation of the husband gave an additional 
 zest to the repast he had hospitably prepared for us. 
 
 It was deliciously cool as we returned after nightfall, by the 
 faint light of the young moon, with the old moon in her arms. 
 Every evening, after sunset, the zodiacal lights were beautiful. 
 Can they, as has been suggested, be the unabsorbed rays of the 
 sun ? 
 
 I do not purpose entering into a description of Jaffa, or to give 
 the statistical facts which were collected there. The first has 
 been repeatedly done before ; the last will, with more propriety, 
 accompany the official report. Moreover, I feel that my notes 
 are diminishing in interest as we recede from those mysterious 
 shores, where we alone were almost the only voyagers. Since 
 our departure from Jerusalem, we have been travelling a route 
 repeatedly and graphically described by others. Any attempt, 
 on my part, to- compete with some of them, would be like one 
 endeavouring to rival the lightning of heaven with the artificial 
 fireworks of earth. In consideration, therefore, alike of the 
 patience of the reader and my own reputation, I will henceforth 
 be as brief as possible. 
 
 26 
 
302 DEPARTURE FOR ACRE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 FROM JAFFA TO NAZARETH. 
 
 Tuesday, June 6. A pleasant, calm morning, with a densf 
 fog to seaward. 
 
 When all hands were called, I was amused with the simplicity 
 of an Arab's toilet. He had been sleeping beneath a tree in the 
 court. When awakened, he sprang immediately to his feet, 
 tightened the leathern belt around his aba, and throwing back 
 the flaps of his koofeeyah, he was attired for the day. Except the 
 elder Sherif, we never saw the Arabs wash anything but their 
 feet, and they regarded our use of the tooth-brush as an absurdity. 
 
 At 7 A. M., the land-party, under command of Mr. Dale, 
 started for St. Jean d'Acre. In the evening, I embarked with the 
 remainder in the Arab brig. 
 
 The wind drawing too much ahead, we were, near sunset, 
 compelled to anchor again within the outer verge of the harbor. 
 
 The finest view of Jaffa is from the sea. The houses are 
 mostly one story, with flat roofs, and being built on. an acclivity, 
 the roofs of those on one street form terraces to the houses on 
 the one above it; hence, at sunset, w 7 hen the inhabitants were 
 assembled on the house-tops to enjoy the breeze, they presented 
 an animated and pleasing appearance. After night-fall, the scene 
 was beautiful ; the town rising terrace above terrace, with hun- 
 dreds of living and moving lights ; in front, stretched the sea, 
 with a line of foam where it broke against the reef, and a young, 
 but bright, unclouded moon above it. 
 
 Sailed again at 8 P. M. ; the wind very light. When I awoke, 
 at 2 A.M., the brig was gently moving, unrestrained by human 
 guidance. The sheets were hauled aft ; the helm lashed alee, 
 and the Reis and his crew were fast asleep. The moon had gone 
 down, and the stars shone lustrous through the humid atmosphere. 
 
 Behind us, but a few miles distant, w T as Jaffa, dark and still as 
 
NIGHT IN THE HARBOUR. 303 
 
 a city of the dead. To the left, was the broad expanse of sea, 
 arched over by an unclouded sky. On the right, was a waving 
 line of coast, defined by the uncrested waves, as they lazily tum- 
 bled and broke against it with a monotonous, but refreshing 
 sound. Beyond, was a line of barren sand-hills, terminated by 
 cliffs in the remote distance. To the careless eye and unreflect- 
 ing mind, an unattractive and a dreary scene ! But, in truth, 
 how teeming with association, and with food for thought! Over 
 those barren sand-hills, were the sites of Gilgal and Antipatris ; 
 and to the north, that seeming line of cliffs was Caesarea, built 
 (or rebuilt) by Herod, and named after his imperial master. 
 Thence, St. Paul departed on his way to Rome. Some centuries 
 later, this very shore presented another and a less quiet scene, — 
 when the battle raged upon its sands, and Christian and Infidel 
 hosts rent the air with shouts of defiance. To the west, across 
 the sea, lay our home, the resting-place of all our earthly ties ; 
 and to the east, beyond the line of hills which skirts the horizon, 
 were the consecrated scenes in the life of Him, in whom should 
 be centred all our future hopes. 
 
 Early in the morning, the sea-breeze sprung up, and making a 
 speedy passage, we anchored off St. Jean d'Acre, about an hour 
 after the gates were closed, and had, consequently, to remain all 
 night on board. 
 
 The route of the land party was along the sea shore, with an 
 occasional detour to the right. The beach was covered with a 
 profusion of shells, of a yellow colour near the sea, but blanched 
 white a short distance up, which, with a harsh, discordant sound, 
 crushed and crumbled beneath the horses' feet. 
 
 Passing the ruins of Apollonia and Coesarea, and the thriving 
 village of Tantiira, they were near Castellum Perigrinorum, when 
 Charles Homer, seaman, was wounded by the accidental dis- 
 charge of a gun. The load of twelve buck-shot entered the 
 under part of the arm near the wrist, and came out on the upper 
 side below the elbow, lacerating the arm dreadfully, and, as it 
 afterwards proved, shattering one of the bones. The severed 
 artery discharged dark arterial blood in frightful jets, and the 
 
304 AN ACCIDENT. 
 
 wounded man suffered excruciating agony. With great difficulty, 
 Mr. Bedlow checked the bleeding, and the poor fellow was slowly 
 conveyed to the ruined castle. Fortunately there were some 
 feluccas in the harbour, and under charge of Mr. B. he was im- 
 mediately embarked in one of them for Acre. The wind was 
 fair and fresh, and in six hours they reached their destination. 
 Homer was immediately taken to the consul's house, and a sur- 
 geon in the Turkish army, who had been educated in Ibrahim 
 Pasha's medical school in Egypt, dressed the wound. I dreaded, 
 however, the heat of the climate, and felt it my duty to procure 
 for the unfortunate man the most comfortable quarters and the 
 very best surgical attendance. I therefore sent him, the same 
 evening, to Beirut, under charge of Passed Midshipman Aulick, 
 Mr. Bedlow, and three men. 
 
 The carriage-trucks, and all our effects sent back from Tibe- 
 rias, w T ere also embarked in the brig. On their arrival, Homer 
 was without delay placed under the care of the Sisters Of Charity, 
 and a French surgeon of eminence attended him daily. The 
 only time that I have ever been addressed by an Arab female, 
 was, when one inquired about the condition of the wounded 
 sailor. Humanity, a lovely tenant, dwell where it may, has its 
 peculiar and appropriate home in the female breast. 
 
 At Acre, on the morning of the 9th, we had a visit from Sherif 
 and 'Akil, who came in state, and we accepted an invitation to 
 breakfast with them. Going into the town, we saw a man in the 
 fosse of the ramparts, digging for bullets expended in various 
 sieges of the place. He had found a number of them, two feet 
 below the surface. 
 
 On repairing to the Sherif 's, a little after noon, we were ushered, 
 through a paved court, into a large room, with a lofty, arched 
 ceiling ; Persian mats were upon the floor ; a handsome divan at 
 one end, and at the other a European bedstead with chintz cur- 
 tains, and costly weapons were hanging against the walls. Nubian 
 slaves were in immediate attendance, with sherbet, pipes, and 
 coffee ; shortly after which, followed the repast. It consisted of 
 a great many dishes, of Arab cookery, and was served up in an 
 
RAPID GERMINATION. 305 
 
 immense circular brazen tray. Among other things, there was a 
 lamb, roasted whole, which 'Akll tore apart and distributed with 
 his hands. We had learned not to consider knives and forks as 
 indispensable ; and, being hungry, made, tooth and nail, a hearty 
 meal. In ten minutes, the exercises were over; and, with a 
 lavation and a pipe, the entertainment concluded. 
 
 Saturday, June 10. After taking some observations to connect 
 with preceding ones, we started for Nazareth, via the Valley of 
 the Winds, the first encampment of our previous march. The 
 aspect of the country was far more parched and dry than when 
 we first saw it ; the plain was embrowned by the sun, and the air 
 filled with myriads of insects, the product of the already decaying 
 vegetation. At 11.45, reached the former camping-place, and 
 stopped to make renewed observations. To our deep regret, we 
 here discovered the delicate boiling-water apparatus, for deter- 
 mining elevations, to be broken, notwithstanding all our care. 
 The horses were exceedingly restive from the heat and the bites 
 of insects, coming across the wide plain of Acre, and to that I 
 attributed the unfortunate accident. We here gathered a few 
 flowers, which, the offspring of a more mature season, were gaudy 
 in their colouring, but less redolent of fragrance, than those which 
 bloomed around us on our previous visit. From the heat of the 
 climate, vegetation germinates, matures, decays, and revivifies, 
 with great rapidity. The poetical figure is an approximation to 
 the truth: — 
 
 "The Syrian flower 
 Buds, and blooms, and withers, in an hour." 
 
 Starting again, and, diverging from the route before pursued, 
 we stopped at Sepphori to examine the ruins of a church with 
 pointed arches, apparently of the time of the crusades. At 4 
 P. M.j came in sight of Nazareth, seated at the head of Wady 
 Hadj (Valley of the Pilgrims), which, through the Wady el 
 Kafyeh (Ravine of the Leap), communicates with the great valley 
 of Esdraelon. Leaving the Greek Church of the Annunciation 
 on our left, we skirted the eastern slope of the mountain, and, 
 descending through the outskirts of the town, camped, where so 
 26* 
 
306 NAZARETH. 
 
 many travellers had camped before, in an olive-grove, about 
 eighty yards from the Fountain of the Virgin. There were a 
 great many women and children around the fountain; the chil- 
 dren, sprightly, with intelligent features ; and the women, the 
 most cleanly in their attire, and the most courteous in their man- 
 ners, of any we had seen in Syria. 
 
 Sunday, June 11. We visited the Franciscan Convent, and its 
 church, containing the grotto of the Annunciation. We were 
 also taken to the reputed workshop of St. Joseph ; to the place 
 where our Saviour dined with his disciples, and to the precipice 
 whither he was led by the Jews. 
 
 The feelings are inexpressible which overpower one in passing 
 to and fro amid scenes which, for the greater portion of his mortal 
 existence, were frequented by our Saviour. In Jerusalem, the 
 theatre of his humilitations, his sufferings, and his death, the heart 
 is oppressed with awe and anguish ; but in Nazareth, where he 
 spent his infancy, his youth, and his early manhood, we yearn 
 towards him unchilled by awe, and unstricken by horror. 
 
 In its secluded position, with a narrow valley before it, and 
 mountains in every other direction, we liked Nazareth better even 
 than Bethlehem, and thought it the prettiest place we had seen 
 in Palestine. The streets were perfectly quiet ; there was an air 
 of comfort about the houses, and the people were better dressed, 
 and far more civil, than any we had encountered. 
 
 Nazareth contains about 5000 inhabitants, four-fifths Christians, 
 the remainder Muslims. It has twenty-two villages in its district, 
 which is subordinate to the Pashalic of Acre. While here, we 
 paid a visit to a Turkish tax-gatherer, who, from his books, 
 furnished us with much statistical information with regard to the 
 tenure and the cultivation of land, and the land-tax, the poll-tax, 
 and the a kharaje," or blood-tax, paid by the Christians. This 
 tax-gatherer was an Egyptian, with a dark complexion, and short, 
 crisp, black hair ; his wife, a native of Aleppo, in the north of 
 Syria, had a white skin, and chesnut ringlets ; and their servant 
 woman was a Maronite of Mount Lebanon, with high cheek-bones 3 
 a freckled face, and reddish-brown hair. 
 
ESDRAELON. 307 
 
 Napoleon stopped at Nazareth after having rescued General 
 Kleber in his desperate engagement with the Syrian army, in the 
 plain of Esdraelon, about two hours distant. 
 
 We found here the heliotrope, the pink, the pheasant's eye, and 
 the knotty hartswort. The roots and seeds of the latter are me- 
 dicinal, having similar properties to those of the carrot. The 
 Turks are said to eat the young shoots as a salad. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 FROM NAZARETH TO THE SOURCE OF THE JORDAN. 
 
 Monday, June 12. Started for Mount Tabor, bearing about 
 E. S. E., leaving Cana on the left. There were many oak-trees 
 on the hill-sides and in the ravines, but no cultivation and very 
 few flowers, except the purple bloom of the thorn. Bearing a 
 little to the south, we soon opened the extensive and beautiful 
 plain of Esdraelon. Over the plain was the village of Nain, 
 where the widow's son was restored to life. Skirting along the 
 northern edge of the lovely plain, nearly hemmed in by lofty hills, 
 and cultivated in patches, with here and there a village ; passing 
 the battle-field of the French, and the reputed spot where Deborah 
 and Barak discomfited Sisera, we reached a village at the base, 
 and ascended to the summit of Mount Tabor ; the sloping sides, 
 two-thirds up, thickly dotted with oak-trees, and beautified by 
 many white and yellow flowers. Near the top, were remains of 
 ancient walls and fortifications; and on the flattened summit were 
 six or eight acres in wheat, being harvested by male and female 
 fellahin, whose homes were in the village below. All around 
 were ruins, many of cut stone, without mortar, the loftiest frag- 
 ment being part of a pedestal with sculptured plinths. There 
 were several cisterns and arched vaults on the southern side of 
 the flattened summit. This is the reputed Mount of Transfigura- 
 tion, and one of those vaults answers annually the purpose of a 
 chapel. 
 
308 A DESOLATE SPOT. 
 
 From the summit was a magnificent view of the plain of Es- 
 draelon, stretching to the range of Carmel in the west, and to 
 Mount Gilboa in the south, with its off-shoot, the plain of Jezrael, 
 reaching east to the Jordan. To the north-west, was Nazareth, 
 embosomed among the hills ; to the north-east, the Sea of Galilee, 
 with Safed and the snowy peak of Mount Hermon. To the 
 south-east, in the plain, was the village of Endor ; to the south- 
 west, was little Mount Hermon, crowned with a ruined mosque 
 which glittered in the sunlight ; and there were two streams from 
 the north, and one from the southward and westward, which, 
 uniting under the south-east base of the mountain, flowed along 
 the plain, and fell into the Jordan near Beisan. A chapter might 
 be written upon the history and associations of Mount Tabor, 
 and its circumjacent plain. 
 
 Descending the mount, the road led over rocky ridges, and 
 across barren ravines, when we came upon several large encamp- 
 ments of black tents, with much cultivation, and many cattle and 
 sheep around them. In the fields were dhoura, wheat, (the last 
 being harvested), and some patches of castor-bean, which is raised 
 for lamp-oil. The uncultivated parts of the rolling plain abounded 
 with the khob (wild artichoke), bearing a large, round, beautiful 
 purple flower, resembling the lilac in its hue, and partaking of the 
 fragrance of the thyme. 
 
 Soon after, we passed two ruined villages. Just below the 
 last one, was a deserted garden, with apricot and fig trees. No 
 one reclined in the grateful shade of the fruit-trees ; and the song 
 of a mother, and the mimic shouts of children, which once echoed 
 around them, were no longer heard. It is not difficult to surmise 
 the fate of the family — the father killed — the mother and the chil. 
 dren driven forth — helpless wanderers. A few months back, and 
 this was probably the seat of domestic happiness ; but now the 
 plaintive cooing of the dove by day, and the mournful whooping 
 of the owl at night, are the only sounds which find an echo in 
 that desolate spot. 
 
 Coming to the summit overlooking the Sea of Galilee, and the 
 Jordan, where it issued from it, we descended to the bank, and 
 
A DISAPPOINTMENT. 309 
 
 halted near our first camping-place on the river, beside the 
 ruined bridge of Semakh. Bathed, for the last time, in the lower 
 Jordan, and gathered some flowers and shells, memorials of the 
 consecrated stream and its lovely banks. From the want of 
 wood, we went nearly supperless to bed. 
 
 Tuesday, June 13. We had been compelled, last night, to 
 pitch our tents in a field of wheat newly cut. When about to 
 start, this morning, I sent to some reapers in the adjoining field 
 to pay the owner of the one we had occupied for the slight 
 damage we had occasioned. He came slowly and with hesita- 
 tion, and appeared perfectly astonished when he understood our 
 object. The idea of remuneration for waste of another's property 
 never occurring to this harassed and misgoverned people. 
 
 Our course to-day was along the western shore of the lake. 
 Passing the ruins of Tarrichsea and of Kades, we stopped to 
 bathe in the hot bath of Emmaus. The shore of the lake was in 
 many places fringed with the pink oleander, and we saw a beau- 
 tiful violet-coloured flower, as round and as large as a small 
 apple, growing on a thorn-like bush. We met a Jewish silver- 
 smith going from Tiberias to the Hauran, to supply the wives and 
 daughters of the Arabs with trinkets ; thus combining thrift with 
 the preservation of health, he will spend the sultry months of 
 summer in the mountains. 
 
 At 9.30, we passed the gate of Tiberias; a few persons on 
 the crumbled walls. The ground, except a few irrigated patches, 
 was parched and dry, and there was much grain being trodden 
 out by cattle and mules. 
 
 When here in April, we purchased the only boat upon the lake, 
 with the condition that another should be procured by the 1st of 
 June — an arrangement we were induced to make in the event of 
 losing our boats or being unable to return with them. To our 
 great regret, we now learned that the one being built on the sea- 
 coast would not be delivered for two weeks, a delay prohibited 
 by the advancing season and our enfeebled condition. Thus 
 fell our hopes of thoroughly exploring this inland sea. It could 
 not have been done when we were there before, without incurring 
 great risk of failure in the main objects of the expedition. 
 
310 THE UPPER JORDAN. 
 
 Resting a short while near Mejdel (Magdala), our road ran 
 parallel with the sea-shore, with the luxuriant but uncultivated 
 plain of Chinnereth on our left, and the holy city of Safed and 
 Mount Hermon towering before us. Upon this plain it is sup- 
 posed that Chorazin and other towns mentioned in the New Tes- 
 tament were situated. 
 
 Early in the afternoon, we arrived at the debouchure of the 
 upper Jordan. Flowing through an extensive and fertile plain, 
 the river pours itself in a wide and shallow stream into the sea, 
 nearly at its north-east extremity. 
 
 Upon the western shore, near the mouth of the river, were 
 many tents of the tribe El Batiheh, A number of these were 
 constructed of wattled cane, giving free access to the air, and, 
 from their diminutive size, more resembled cages for beasts than 
 human habitations. Much of the plain had been under cultiva- 
 tion, but the harvest was over, and the fields were blackened 
 from the burning of the stubble. We encamped on the western 
 bank, about half a mile up the stream, to avoid the near vicinity 
 of the Arabs, this tribe having a bad reputation. Across the 
 river on the first spur of the hills which bound the plain in that 
 direction, is a village, the reputed site of Bethsaida. The river 
 ran in front of the camp, about ten paces distant, and in the rear 
 and on one side, as well as along the bank, were a great many 
 oleanders in full bloom. This day there were very many olean- 
 ders along the sea-shore, and in some places the road passed 
 through groves of them, but we did not meet the aromatic shrub 
 mentioned by Strabo. The purple flower I have before men- 
 tioned was frequent. The day had been oppressively hot, and 
 as soon as the observations of Polaris were taken, we retired — 
 but not to sleep — for we were dreadfully tormented by mosquitoes 
 and fleas. A marauding band of Arabs was reported to be in 
 the neighbourhood, but we were unmolested. 
 
 Starting early on the 14th, the road led at first through a mo- 
 rass intersected by several streams and numerous ditches, and 
 covered with a tangled growth of shrubbery. Bethsaida, the 
 birth-place of Peter, Andrew, and Philip, in full sight to the 
 
MOUNT HERMON. 311 
 
 north-east. We soon began to ascend, clambering up the western 
 hills, the river becoming rapid, brawling and more contracted in 
 its width — its banks fringed with the cane, the willow, and the 
 oleander, the last in great profusion, its delicate pink hue con- 
 trasting well with the light and dark green of the other vegetation. 
 After a toilsome ascent of an hour, we reached the summit of the 
 hill overlooking the plain. From it was a fine view of the Sea 
 of Galilee and the Jordan, the latter rushing down in one line of 
 foam fringed with willows, oleanders, and the ghurrah of the 
 lower Ghor. Thence descending and ascending the sides of a 
 deep ravine, we reached the highest elevation, whence the face 
 of the country breaks down towards lake Huleh. Thus far from 
 the head of the plain, the river had been a perfect torrent. 
 Mount Hermon soon came into view, its brow seamed with lines 
 of snow, which were fast disappearing beneath the sun of a Sy- 
 rian summer. Passing a reservoir and a ruined khan, we came 
 at noon to Jisr benat Ya'kob (Jacob's daughter's Bridge), with 
 four arches. 
 
 Above the bridge, the river, about forty yards wide, and full 
 to the utmost capacity of its banks, flowed in nearly a due south 
 course, through a narrow plain. Our road led parallel with the 
 river, until we opened on a yet more extensive plain, with the 
 lake on its eastern side. This plain was under partial cultiva- 
 tion ; there were two villages (one in ruins) near the centre, and 
 many Arab encampments scattered about, — the men smoking in 
 the tents, while the women, with uncovered heads, were at work 
 in the broiling sun. This lake is the Merom of the Bible, and 
 upon this plain, Joshua overthrew the Canaanites. 
 
 In the afternoon, our course led along the western edge of the 
 plain, between the lake and the mountains. The plain seemed 
 perfectly level to the eye ; and there w T ere two streams running 
 down its northern end, which, with the numerous fountains, ren- 
 der it very fertile. There w T ere many encampments of the fel- 
 lahin, who cultivate rice and dhoura. The tents were of cane 
 wicker-work, with upright sides, and more comfortable than any 
 we had seen. The hills on the left formed a lofty range of swell- 
 
312 ANCIENT DAN. 
 
 ing domes, terminating to the north in an abrupt perpendicular 
 face of horizontal strata, — the prevailing rock, limestone. Sweep- 
 ing round the head of the plain to the north-east, we ascended to 
 an elevated plateau, and camped on the banks of the Golden 
 Stream, a tributary of the river of Banias, one of the sources of 
 the Jordan. 
 
 Starting early on the 15th, in two hours, we crossed a fine old 
 Roman bridge, with its three arches, spanning the river Hasbeiya 
 (the true Jordan), which, far below, swept through with great 
 velocity, its rushing and tumbling waters darkened with fragments 
 of rock peering above the eddying w 7 hirls of foam. 
 
 In one hour more, we came to Tell el Kadi (Hill of the Judge), 
 the site of ancient Dan, and the Laish of the Canaanites, " the 
 utmost border northwards of the land of Israel," and where Jero- 
 boam placed one of his golden calves. It is an oblong hill, with 
 swelling sides and a flattened summit, about eighty feet above the 
 plain. Over the crest is a hollow, where the fountain bubbles up. 
 There was much tufa, and some quartz, and the whole hill bore 
 traces of volcanic characters. 
 
 On the west side, a short distance from the fountain, a stream, 
 or rather many streams, gushed out so copiously from the hill-side 
 as, in an instant, to form a river ; the water clear, sweet, and cool. 
 This was long supposed to be the highest source of the Jordan, 
 and from it the name is said to have been derived. The only 
 objection of many to the derivation is that is too simple. The 
 Hebrew words Jor and Dan, as rendered in our language, mean 
 River and Judge. Dan, in Hebrew, being the same as Kadi in 
 Arabic. To this place, as related in Genesis, Abraham pursued 
 the kings. 
 
 Thence to Banias (Cesarea Philippi), the road led, in nearly 
 an easterly direction, through a beautiful country, with numerous 
 clumps of trees, mostly oak, and many coy flowers, peeping out 
 from the tufted grass. 
 
 Stopping to rest, a few moments, under a majestic oak, on a 
 raised platform, encircled three feet high by a wall of fluted and 
 chiselled blocks of marble, we proceeded to the cave, beneath 
 
AN IMPROVED CULTURE. 313 
 
 which, it is said, flows the stream we had crossed, which finds an 
 outlet farther down. The cave was dry, but, in places, bore 
 marks of recent water. We were assured that, in the rainy sea- 
 son, it is nearly filled. It no doubt communicates through a fis- 
 sure, with one gorge or more in the mountain above. In the face 
 of the rock, above and beside the cave, were niches, supposed to 
 have been occupied by statues of Pan and several nymphs. There 
 is a fabulous legend of the true source of this stream being Lake 
 Phiala, a short distance to the south-east of the town. Josephus 
 states that " Philip the Tetrarch cast straw into the lake, which 
 came out again at Panion, which, till that time, was taken for the 
 head of the Jordan." To this place our Saviour came from Beth- 
 saida. 
 
 From Banias we pursued a north-west course, the country roll- 
 ing ; the soil, like that of yesterday, red clay, with a substratum 
 of limestone, which occasionally cropped out. At first there was 
 much cultivation, and a great many people harvesting; their com- 
 plexions much lighter than those of the dwellers in the plain. 
 The women wore petticoats and aprons ; and, when first seen, 
 there was a general shout along the line — u hurrah for civiliza- 
 tion!" We soon came upon stone fences, and other marks of a 
 more secure tenure of property ; and the people were courteous ; 
 saluting and returning the salutations of strangers. In saluting, 
 they placed the right hand upon the breast. We were once more 
 amonsr Christians. 
 
 The road led over two high mountain-ridges and down into a 
 rolling plain, with fields of dhoura, beans, and houma, and across 
 the Hasbeiya (true Jordan), by a bridge at Khan Suleil. It me- 
 andered along the valley, which narrowed as we advanced, and 
 led through groves of olive and some poplars, and by fields of 
 grain, in sight of several villages. Turning to the south, and 
 then crossing the river again at a ford, and rounding to the 
 east, we clambered the steep Wady et Teim, along a most exe- 
 crable road. It is said that the mountaineers, to increase their 
 security, purposely render their roads almost impassable. We 
 soon opened the town of Hasbeiya, seated far up on the crest of 
 27 
 
314 RELIGIOUS DISCORD. 
 
 the right acclivity, its castle and a minaret conspicuous, and 
 camped on a ledge, in an olive-grove, about one-third up from 
 the bed of the ravine. 
 
 There were groves of olive, mulberry, and fig, and some apri- 
 cot trees on each side of the ravine, from its head as far down as 
 w r e could see. On the cliffs behind us were many scattered oaks, 
 with here and there an orchard and a dwelling. The rich culti- 
 vation extended from the head of the ravine far up to a village 
 on the mountain-side, which was, in turn, overlooked by the 
 snow T -capped crest of Mount Hermon. 
 
 From extreme weariness, we could not leave the tents the day 
 after our arrival, even to visit the tow T n, but impatiently awaited 
 intelligence from our wounded comrade ; intending, if his life 
 were in danger, to hasten to him. 
 
 On the 16th, we received a great many visitors, and obtained 
 much information from some of the most intelligent. There are 
 1500 w r ho pay poll-tax in the town ; and as it is only paid by 
 able-bodied men, over twenty-one and under forty years of age, 
 there must be near 9000 inhabitants in Hasbeiya, of whom two- 
 thirds are Christians, mostly of the Greek persuasion. The Pro- 
 testants number fifty-five ; the Maronites, fifty ; the Greek Catho- 
 lics, thirty ; and there are a few Jews. There w T as great religious 
 discord here : the members of the Greek church being prohibited 
 from speaking to, or holding any communication with, the Pro- 
 testants. The governor w 7 as under the influence of the Greeks, 
 it was asserted, from mercenary considerations ; but the rest of 
 the Muslims, as w T ell as the Druses, were free from intolerance, 
 and seemed disposed to favour the persecuted. Freedom of reli- 
 gious worship was denied to the Protestants, and w T e w T ere indig- 
 nant witnesses of the persecutions to which they were subjected. 
 
 We are, mercifully, so framed as to depend upon association 
 with each other, to relieve necessities, to enhance enjoyments, 
 and to maintain security. Peace, therefore, and harmony, unity 
 and benevolence, is the proper condition of the human family ; 
 without which, man but cumbers the earth he should adorn ; and, 
 in his abasement, deeply feels the abiding curse of Ishmael, — 
 
SOURCE OF THE JORDAN. 315 
 
 " thy hand is against every man, and every man's hand against 
 thee." 
 
 Of all the embittered feelings of the human heart, there are 
 none so detestable as those engendered by fanaticism. Of all 
 the human family, there is not one so malevolent and so fiendish 
 as the sour and self-sufficient bigot, who, catching a brand from 
 the altar of Moloch, lights the fires of persecution, and pervert- 
 ing, with infamous audacity, the. mild breathings of the sacred 
 volume into lessons of cruelty and proscription, becomes the foe 
 of his fellow-man and the mocker of his august Creator. The 
 persecuted have our warmest sympathies. 
 
 In the afternoon, Prince Ali called upon us. He is of the 
 family of Shehab, which came in with Saladin, and is the oldest 
 in Syria. We accompanied him to the source of the Jordan. 
 Descending the ravine, and turning to the north, we passed 
 through groves of olive, fig, and mulberry trees, and crossed the 
 river over a one-arched bridge ; the banks lined with willow and 
 plane trees, and luxuriantly fertile. Thence going east, in ten 
 minutes we came suddenly to the source, a bold, perpendicular 
 rock, from beneath which, the river gushed copious, translucent, 
 and cool, and flowed in two rectangular streams, one to the north- 
 east, the other to the north-west. The scarp of the rock was about 
 forty feet high ; and the north-east branch, being mere back-water, 
 extended only a few hundred yards ; but its banks were fringed 
 with the wild rose, the white and pink oleander, and the clematis 
 orientalis, or oriental virgin's bower. The north-west branch, at 
 the distance of about a hundred yards, plunged over a dam, and 
 went rushing through the arch of the bridge below. The hand 
 of art could not have improved the scene. The gigantic rock, 
 all majesty, above ; its banks, enamelled with beauty and fra- 
 grance, all loveliness, beneath ; render it a fitting fountain-head 
 of a stream which was destined to lave the immaculate body of 
 the Redeemer of the world. 
 
 While here, our observation confirmed the accounts given us 
 of the wonderful product of terrace cultivation, but I will not 
 cumber my already extended narrative with statistics. 
 
316 BEAUTIFUL SCENE. 
 
 On the 17th, Mr. Dale and myself visited the valley of the 
 Buk'ah, This rolling valley is hemmed in by the two parallel 
 ridges of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon. The latter skirts it on 
 the east, the former upon the west. Like the waving backs 
 of huge monsters, whose bodies are prostrate but their heads 
 erect, their summits stretch in ascending lines to the north till 
 they terminate in two crowning peaks, Ghebel es Sheikh and 
 Ghebel Stinnin, each capped and ribbed with snow. The Litany 
 ran here close against the Lebanon range, the stream visible here 
 and there, far down the steep chasm. 
 
 Descending, with great difficulty, we came upon the river 
 where it flowed impetuously beneath a natural bridge, — an arch 
 excavated, by the water, through the opposing mass of rock. The 
 reverberating noise beyond soon told of its reappearance ; and, 
 clambering along and down the precipice, we saw it issuing 
 gently, at first, from its subterranean chasm, its banks fringed 
 with the willow and the plane tree, and decked with flowers of 
 the richest hue. The stream thence flowed with increasing velo- 
 city, for about 200 yards, between a high, naked rock on one 
 side, and a luxuriant growth of overhanging plane-trees on the 
 other, when, whirling suddenly to the right, and again to the left, 
 it gathered its tumultuous waters, and, rushing in a narrow but 
 impetuous cascade into a circular basin, it thence leaped twenty 
 feet into a foaming caldron. The rays of the sun were reflected 
 in rain-bow hues, as they fell upon the long line of foam, which 
 sparkled and glittered among the trees, whose branches almost 
 intertwined above, and nearly overshadowed the stream that 
 rushed so madly beneath. If the site of the grove of Daphne 
 were upon this stream instead of the Orontes, here, no doubt, 
 would have been the favoured spot. 
 
 We here gathered the althea, the retem, or broom-plant, the 
 dianthus, or pink, and the snap-dragon. 
 
 With the exception of those of the highest class among the 
 Turks, all the females of the town came indiscriminately to the 
 fountain in the ravine for water. Each one carried a large jar, 
 some upon the head, but most upon the back of the neck, between 
 
PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY. 317 
 
 the shoulders. While here, we saw the wives and daughters of 
 Christians (Protestants and Greeks), Druses and Turks, among 
 them the married daughter of the richest man in town, pass, at 
 all hours of the day, to and from the fountain. 
 
 The transition from a severely active life in the plains to a 
 wholly inactive one in an elevated region proved very trying, and 
 we waited impatiently for intelligence from our comrade. Not 
 hearing on Sunday, I, that evening, despatched a messenger to 
 Beirut. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 FROM THE SOURCE OF THE JORDAN TO DAMASCUS, 
 BA'ALBEK, AND BEIRUT. 
 
 Receiving, on Monday, the joyful intelligence that Homer was 
 out of danger, and that Mr. Aulick and Mr. Bedlow were on 
 the way to rejoin us, I determined to remain no longer inactive ; 
 and, early on the 19th, started to lead the party over the Anti- 
 Lebanon into the plain of Damascus. 
 
 Clambering diagonally up the mountain-side, which was beau- 
 tifully terraced, and clothed with vineyards and olive and mul- 
 berry orchards, we passed two Druse villages, and a silk-mill, 
 near a cave, which was filled with water, and contained crypts 
 and sarcophagi. 
 
 The cultivation gradually disappeared as we ascended, and 
 was succeeded by dwarf oaks, with some large ones in the hol- 
 lows, and in sheltered places ; there were several streams trickling 
 down the mountain side. Near the streams was some grass, and 
 on their banks, and upon the mountain-slope, we observed the 
 oleander, the convolvulus, the pink-flowered valerian, and the 
 retem or broom-plant, the last covered with its straw-coloured 
 and fragrant blossoms. The oak was succeeded by heath and 
 fern, the last beautiful with its small, scarlet blossom ; then suc- 
 27* 
 
318 APPROACH TO DAMASCUS. 
 
 ceeded lichens and moss, terminating in masses of limestone-rock, 
 with boulders of quartz. We crossed, in a gorge (the Wistanee), 
 between Mount Hermon and the next peak to the southward. 
 The two crests were covered and many clefts on both sides filled 
 with snow. From the summit, the country below, which had 
 seemed so mountainous to the upward view, appeared an immense 
 rolling plain. Far to the north-west, at the verge of the seeming 
 plain, were the red sands, a dazzling line of gold, separating the 
 luxuriant green of the plain from the light azure of the far-stretch- 
 ing sea. Upon that line of sand, like clustering dots upon a 
 chart, were the cities of Tyre, Sidon, and Beirut. Another 
 plain stretched, from the opposite side, south to the Hauran, and 
 to the east until it was lost in the great desert. On the northern 
 margin of that plain, but yet in the far distance, lay the city of 
 Damascus, Es Sham ! (the Holy !) embosomed in groves and 
 meadows. As we ascended, we suffered from a stricture about 
 the temples, but nearer the summit, the feeling passed away, and 
 was succeeded by great nervous exhilaration. 
 
 We found snow some distance down the eastern slope ; and 
 the descent was gradual ; but, from the nature of the road, very 
 slow and excessively fatiguing. As we descended, the limestone 
 rock disappeared, giving place to sand-stone and trap ; and, 
 lower down, serpentine occasionally cropped out. Near the base 
 of the mountain, there was a profusion of wild roses. 
 
 The next day, the road led over a high, rolling plain, along 
 the flank of the mountain, winch, ribbed and capped with snow, 
 formed a bleak barrier to the west. Ahead was a sea of verdure, 
 which indicated the gardens around Damascus. There is an 
 unfounded legend that Muhammed refused to enter that terrestrial 
 paradise. Advancing into cultivation, there were patches of 
 wheat and barley on the high ground ; and, in the ravines, groves 
 of olives, figs, apricots, English w r alnuts, and some melons and 
 cucumbers. The prevailing rock, a dark basalt, with metallic 
 veins, and some quartz. As we proceeded, the number of vil- 
 lages increased, each w T ith its girdle of vegetation ; an oasis in 
 the wide-spread and arid desert. Occasionally the wind, sweep- 
 
BEAUTIFUL GARDENS. 319 
 
 ing down the gorges of the mountains, would whirl the dust of 
 the incinerated plain in circling eddies, high in air, very much 
 like our water- spouts at sea. There were some camels moving 
 about in search of food ; but there w r ere few people, and no birds 
 or wild animals : — a long, dreary ride over the dry plain, under 
 a burning sun. I had brought the party down from the mountain, 
 where the air was too keen for our debilitated condition ; — here 
 there was a prospect of the other extreme, and that the weather 
 would prove hot and relaxing. 
 
 In the heat of the day, the whole plain seemed to undulate, 
 and the ascending vapour formed a perfect mirage, through which, 
 like light-houses above the sea, the minarets of the villages were 
 alone visible. We passed through the populous village of Kat- 
 tana, and a most extensive olive orchard — and with the suburb 
 town of Salihiyeh on a slope of the mountain to the left, and on 
 the right a long line of vegetation indicating the course of the 
 river until it w T as lost in the desert ; and Damascus, unseen though 
 near, before us ; we pressed forward as rapidly as our strength 
 and that of our steeds permitted. The road led through avenues 
 of large walnut trees, the blossoms nipped by frost. For miles 
 the way was lined with walls composed of sun-dried blocks of 
 mud, intermixed with pebbles, each about three feet high, four 
 feet long, and one foot thick, larger, but in every other respect 
 very much like the adobes of Mexico. This climate is said to 
 be very cold in winter. It can only be so by contrast with the 
 heat of summer, for much frost would crumble these walls in a 
 single season. Within the lines of walnut trees there were 
 orchards of olives and apricots, and patches of wheat, barley, 
 melons, and leguminous plants. The road ran winding among 
 these delicious gardens, with a rapid stream always on one and 
 generally on both sides, and to which, through each garden there 
 flowed a brawling tributary. After the poetic Lamartine and the 
 graphic Miss Martineau, it would be folly to attempt a description 
 of Damascus. I therefore simply transcribe what fell under our 
 observation. 
 
 At 4 P. M., we were abreast of Bab el Karrawat (Gate of the 
 
320 DAMASCUS. 
 
 Aqueduct), and turning to the left along the Grecian aqueduct, 
 we came upon a beautiful green, level as a meadow, through the 
 centre of which flows the far-famed Barada, formed by the union 
 of two streams above, which are supposed to have been the Par- 
 phar and the Abana, rivers of Damascus, mentioned by Naaman 
 the Syrian. 
 
 Crossing the bridge which spanned the Barada, we turned to 
 the east, and skirting the northern wall, passed through a ceme- 
 tery, many of the tombs in which were enclosed in wooden 
 lattice work with bouquets of flowers suspended within, and 
 many women moving about among them. We next passed a 
 house enclosing the tomb of a santon, with numerous placards 
 affixed to it, whither the afflicted or their friends come to pray for 
 recovery from sickness. Very soon after we encountered a 
 fellow-country-man, and our Vice-Consul, a Syrian Jew. By 
 them we were conducted through Bab es Salem (Gate of Peace) 
 to the quarters that had been provided for us. Before entering 
 the city, we were advised to furl our flag, with the assurance that 
 no foreign one had ever been tolerated within the walls ; that the 
 British Consul's had been torn down on the first attempt to raise 
 it, and that the appearance of ours would excite commotion, and 
 perhaps lead to serious consequences. But we had carried it to 
 every place we had visited, and, determining to take our chances 
 with it, we kept it flying. Many angry comments w T ere, I believe, 
 made by the populace ; but, as we did not understand what our 
 Toorgeman was too wary to interpret, we passed unmolested. 
 
 Our quarters consisted of a bower, about eighty by twenty feet, 
 a small fountain at one end, and a large reservoir at the other, 
 with a miniature canal between ; a grotto-like recess, with a 
 divan, which w r as assigned to the sailors, and a large room, w T ith 
 a dais and a jet d'eau in a circular basin — called, by the Jews, 
 " a sea" — for ourselves. The last gave us the first correct idea 
 of the "Brazen Sea" of Solomon. 
 
 On our way around the walls, we had seen many light-coloured 
 pigeons, with fan-tails ; and in this garden w T ere ravens of a fawn 
 colour, with black head, wings, tail, and feet, — which contradicts 
 
A TURKISH CAF£. 321 
 
 mythology ; for we are there told that the plumage of this bird 
 was originally white, but that Apollo turned it all black, because 
 it misinformed him of the infidelity of Coronis. 
 
 The windows of our apartments looked upon the Barada, 
 which flowed immediately beneath them, between two tiny cata- 
 racts. On the opposite bank, was a large rural and crowded 
 cafe, perfectly embowered in a grove of magnificent plane-trees. 
 It was a lively and most attractive sight. There were Turks, 
 Greeks, Arabs, and Syrians, in various costumes, supinely sip- 
 ping coffee or smoking in groups or apart, or attending to the 
 recital of a tale ; and on one side a crowd was gathered, listening 
 to a musician, and looking upon the feats of a tight-rope dancer, 
 whose figure was at times half concealed from us by the inter- 
 vening branches. As the day waned, numerous little coloured 
 lamps, suspended in every direction about the trees, were lighted 
 up, which shone beautifully amid the dark green foliage. 
 
 This scene so excited our curiosity, from the idea it conveyed 
 of a social hilarity w r hich we had never before witnessed in our 
 intercourse among Asiatics, that, wearied as we were, we deter- 
 mined to sally forth. On our way, through the dark, narrow, 
 and crooked streets, w T e frequently stumbled over sleeping dogs. 
 These animals were by no means vicious, but w T ould howl when 
 trodden upon, and lazily get out of the way. They were more 
 numerous than in Constantinople; and we were told that they 
 perform the office of scavengers, and are, moreover, supported 
 by charitable contribution. 
 
 While making our way through a crowded bazaar, a Turk, in 
 passing, elevated his hands above his head. We did not at the 
 time understand it, but learned afterwards, that formerly it was 
 an enforced custom for Christians to keep the centre of the street, 
 which is nothing more than a gutter, while the Muslims passed 
 along the elevated side-walk. The Turk, on this occasion, not 
 being so tall as the member of our party next to him, his gesture 
 was intended as a kind of assertion of superiority. 
 
 The bazaars were covered in, and the shops in those appropri- 
 ated to merchandise were closed ; but there were a great many 
 
322 A BATH AT DAMASCUS. 
 
 cafes, not confined to houses, but each one embracing a consi- 
 derable space of the street before it. There were lines drawn 
 across, some ten feet above the pavement, to which were sus- 
 pended hundreds of little lamps, under which, on broad benches 
 and low stools, squatted and sat those visitors who preferred the 
 sensual indulgence of coffee and the chibouque ; while those 
 whose tastes were more intellectual, listened silently within, as 
 one read or related some tale of the East. The scene brought 
 the days of our boyhood back, and we remembered the Arabian 
 Nights, — Haroun al Raschid, and his excursions in disguise. 
 
 Early the next morning, went to a bath, passing on the way 
 the court of the great mosque, once the Christian church of St. 
 John. Many of the streets were so narrow, that the projecting 
 balconies often touched the walls of the houses opposite. The 
 bath was very much like those of Constantinople, but more 
 elaborate in its decorations, and the process of ablution was more 
 prolonged and complex. The building was ornamented in the 
 Chinese style. The interior of the dome-roof was painted sky- 
 blue, and the walls were in fresco, of Chinese scenery. There 
 were pagodas six stories high, with grotesque ornaments on the top, 
 and trees and flowers nearly as high as the pagodas. There were 
 elevated divans around the rotunda, and two recesses, fitted in 
 like manner, sufficiently large to accommodate about sixty people. 
 These recesses led off to apartments with dome-roofs, studded 
 with circular glass-lights, and having marble floors and fountains, 
 and alabaster reservoirs. We were led into one upon wooden 
 clogs, three or four inches high, — for the floors were heated from 
 beneath, — and made to sit down by one of the fountains which 
 supplied hot and cold water in unlimited profusion, and the whole 
 apartment was filled with a hot and almost stifling vapour. After 
 being parboiled, the scarf-skin of the whole body was scraped 
 off with horse-hair gloves, by yellow imps with shaven crowns, 
 nearly as naked as ourselves. We were afterwards conducted 
 into a room of yet higher temperature, where we were boiled a 
 little more, lathered, and thoroughly washed off We were then 
 enveloped in napkins, a capacious turban w T as wreathed around 
 
JEWISH DWELLINGS. 323 
 
 our heads, and, almost exhausted and panting for a less rarefied 
 air, were slowly supported to the outer room, where we reclined 
 upon luxurious couches, and, at will, sipped coffee or sherbet, 
 or smoked the aromatic chibouque. 
 
 Friday, June 23. A close, warm day, but the air was much 
 refreshed by the play of the fountains, which sounded like gentle 
 rain, and mingling with the gush of the river, lulled us to sleep 
 at night. 
 
 In the cool of the evening, we went without the walls. Pass- 
 ing through the east gate, consisting of a large central one, and 
 two side ones now blocked up, we had, from without, a fine 
 view of the city and its suburbs. 
 
 Near the Jerusalem gate, we were shown the place where St. 
 Paul was let down in a basket, and, on the road beyond, the spot 
 of his conversion ; and, on our return, we passed through " the 
 street which is called Straight." 
 
 This country is the cradle of the human race ; and Damascus 
 is certainly one of the oldest cities in the world. Its name is 
 said to imply " the blood of the righteous ;" derived, it is sup- 
 posed from the death of Abel. Eleazar, the steward of Abraham, 
 was from Damascus : and about half an hour beyond it, is Hobah 
 of the Old Testament, whither the patriarch followed to rescue 
 Lot from his captors. 
 
 The history of this city teems with vicissitudes. Persians, 
 Greeks, Romans, and Saracens, have been here ; and there are 
 ruins, and vestiges of ruins, which would delight an antiquarian. 
 
 On Saturday, the Jewish Sabbath, we were taken to some 
 houses of wealthy Jews. The exteriors of the dwellings were 
 unpretending and semi-dilapidated ; and the entrances were un- 
 cleanly, and, in some instances, almost filthy. A narrow, crooked 
 way led to an open court, paved with marble, with a marble 
 fountain and shrubs and flowering plants in the centre, and lofty, 
 spacious, and elaborately- decorated rooms and alcoves around it. 
 At the farther end of each room, was the elevated dais, with 
 divans of costliest silk cushions on the three sides, and Persian 
 carpets between them. From the dais to the opposite end of the 
 
324 DRESS OF THE FEMALES. 
 
 room, was a floor of tessellated marble, with an overflowing re- 
 servoir, or "sea," supplied by a jet d'eau. The door and win- 
 dows opened upon the court ; and the walls, wainscoting, door 
 and window-frames, and the lofty ceiling, were of mosaic, of 
 different kinds of costly wood, with rich gilt edgings and arabesque 
 figures. 
 
 There were neither tables nor chairs ; and, in the sleeping 
 apartments, the beds consisted of thick cushions piled upon each 
 other. The men were dressed in black turbans and gaberdines ; 
 the wives and daughters, in narrow-skirted gowns, usually of 
 English printed muslin ; and a silk boddice, generally yellow, 
 fitting closely to the form — except that, opening and diverging in 
 front, they displayed a thin, white gauze across the breast ; which, 
 in consequence of the pressure beneath, protruded forth and pre- 
 sented a most disgusting appearance. The married women 
 sedulously concealed their own, but wore a quantity of artificial 
 hair confined by a net- work cap, ornamented with gold coins, 
 pearls, and precious stones. The unmarried wore their own 
 hair, uncovered and unadorned. The eye-brows were shaved ; 
 and over each eye was a black, curved line, extending from the 
 outer corner and meeting in the centre, at the bridge of the nose. 
 The lower eye-lid, beneath the lash, was also blackened, and gave 
 to the whole countenance a fierce and repulsive aspect, and the 
 nails were stained with henna. They wore white stockings and 
 loose, thin, yellow, morocco slippers, which, when they left the 
 dais, were thrust into wooden clogs, and in which they moved 
 about with perfect ease. These clogs were of wood, inlaid with 
 pearl, consisting of one horizontal piece, shaped like the sole 
 of a shoe, supported on two upright ones, eight inches high. 
 They slipped their feet into them without stooping, merely half 
 turning round in the evolution ; and they always left them at the 
 foot of the dais when they came upon it. Their appearance and 
 their movements were unbecoming and ungraceful. 
 
 In the evening, the great Sheikh of the 'Anazeh tribe (the ruler 
 of the desert) came to see us ; and, also the Sherif of Damascus. 
 The former is a fine, mild-looking man ; but his character belies 
 
LEAVE DAMASCUS. 325 
 
 the expression of his features, for he was recently concerned in an 
 outrage upon some English travellers. He is the Sheikh with 
 whom those who wish to visit the ruins of Palmyra, or cross the 
 great desert, must make their contract. 
 
 The Sherif was a venerable-looking old man, with a magnifi- 
 cent turban, of a fine, white material, intertwined with gold thread. 
 He came in imposing state, with numerous attendants ; while the 
 powerful Sheikh, who holds life and death at his disposal, an- 
 nounced himself. 
 
 Sunday, June 25. The weather oppressively hot, and many 
 complaining ; which determined me to remain no longer in the 
 city, but to lead the party again across the mountains. 
 
 Starting a little before sunset, and passing through the suburb 
 and a gorge in the hills, we had, from an elevation just above 
 where the Barada bursts through the mountain, a full view 7 of the 
 city and the surrounding country. There were the mountains, 
 the desert, and the forest of gardens ; the last intermingled w T ith 
 w r alls, and domes, and minarets, and untold roofs, and the tops 
 of trees, and the glittering sheen of running water, all forming a 
 scene of beauty unparalleled and indescribable. Damascus, with 
 its gardens, is a city in a grove ; and conveys the idea of art 
 seated in the lap of nature, — an island of architecture in the midst 
 of a sea of verdure. A little after 7 P. M., w r e encamped for the 
 night, by the village of Damiir, on the right bank of the Barada. 
 
 On the 26th our course led along the right bank of the river, 
 now an impetuous stream, winding frequently, with many grace- 
 ful curves from side to side of a narrow and luxuriant valley. 
 The prevailing flowers were the w T ild white rose ; a vine resem- 
 bling the morning-glory, and a beautiful pink flower. It is strange 
 that with a climate so similar to this, South America does not 
 produce the w T hite rose. 
 
 As we approached the village of Zebdany, the winding road 
 w r as shaded by the willow, and confined between hedges of the 
 wild rose and a fragrant but unknown shrub. We camped early 
 just without the village, which is embosomed amid luxuriant gar- 
 dens enclosed by wattled hedges with rude gates, and beautiful, 
 28 
 
326 TURKISH INEBRIETY. 
 
 shaded walks between. The enclosures, like those of Damascus, 
 were a combination of patches of grain, orchards, and gardens, 
 with a running stream through each. Among the fruit trees we 
 gladly recognized the apple and the quince. The apples are 
 celebrated in the market of Damascus. 
 
 Among these gardens, in the opinion of some writers, was the 
 paradise of our first parents ; and tradition denominates a spot 
 within it the tomb of Adam. 
 
 We had reason to believe that inebriety prevailed among the 
 Turks in Constantinople, but while in Syria saw only one intoxi- 
 cated Arab— our muleteer on the present journey — who was 
 rarely sober. On reaching Zebdany, he had deceived me about 
 the best camping-place, and I said to him, threateningly, as he 
 laid beneath a tree, " I have a great mind to pour a pint of arrack 
 down your throat for telling me an untruth ;" when springing up, 
 he exclaimed, " do, Howajeh, and I will kiss your feet !" 
 
 Tuesday, June 27. The nature of the country before us ren- 
 dered a long ride necessary to-day. We therefore rose at 3.45 
 A. M., the moon peering over the eastern mountains, and again 
 started at 4.50, just as the first beams of the sun tinged the snowy 
 peak of Hermon. 
 
 Passing by several villages, and a deep ravine with large blocks 
 of conglomerate in its bed, we rode over the rolling, but parched 
 and dreary plain of Buk'ah, with Ghebel Sunnin, crowned with 
 snow, on our left. The Arabs hold that the ark rested on Sun- 
 nin after the flood, and that Noah lived, and was buried, in this 
 plain. Of the last, which was part of the Ccelosyria of the Ro- 
 mans, we know that it was the High road along which Egyptian, 
 Syrian, and Roman hosts have passed, in devastating progress. 
 
 Early in the afternoon, w T e came in sight of the ruins of Heli- 
 opolis, or the Great Temple of the Sun, at Ba'albek, and camped 
 without the village, on the banks of the small, but rapid and clear 
 stream, dignified with the name of the "river of Ba'albek." 
 
 Thoroughly conscious of inability to convey an idea of these 
 ruins, even if our exhausted condition had permitted sufficient 
 notes to have been taken for the purpose, I will not attempt it. 
 
SELF-REPROACH. 327 
 
 Wednesday, June 28. Weather, warm and calm ; — at mid- 
 day, the heat oppressive, many of the party complaining, and 
 some seriously indisposed. I determined, therefore, to forego a 
 thorough examination of the ruins ; and, abandoning the contem- 
 plated journey to the cedars of Lebanon, to hasten, with all prac- 
 ticable speed, to Beirut, in the hope of meeting our ship. We 
 found here a very beautiful species of the pink lark-spur, and 
 also a pale, yellow honeysuckle, a native of the south of Europe, 
 and naturalized as far north as Scotland, but which has not, be- 
 fore, been recognised so far to the East. 
 
 Striking across the plain towards the Lebanon range, we crossed 
 the head-waters of the Litany, but were compelled to continue on 
 for some time after dark. The mountains in solemn gloom, and 
 lights here and there on the plain, indicated a distant village ; the 
 silence unbroken, but by the tramp of the animals and the tinkling 
 bells of the caravan. At length we heard the welcome sound of 
 dogs barking, succeeded by the voices of men ; and, near 10 
 o'clock, camped, by starlight, near a village, where three snow- 
 capped mountains overlooked the plain. 
 
 Thursday, June 29. Two of the men sick last night, one of 
 them very much so. We seemed to have imbibed the disease 
 which has heretofore prostrated all who have ventured upon the 
 Dead Sea, and were about to pass the ordeal. As I looked upon 
 my companions drooping around me, many and bitter were my 
 self-reproaches for having ever proposed the undertaking. 
 
 Our route thence led along the flank of Lebanon towards the 
 south-west. Here and there upon the plain on one side, and 
 in every nook of the mountain on the other, was a village, 
 through or beside which flowed a rivulet, bordered with trees 
 and shrubbery, the only lines of vegetation above the plain. The 
 cultivation was the same as we have heretofore seen, with the 
 addition of the kersenna, a round pea with a hard shell, growing 
 two or three in a pod, and resembling a very large radish seed in 
 appearance. The kernel is saffron-coloured, sweet to the taste, 
 and it is an article of food for oxen and camels, the last particu- 
 larly. It is broken and given in moistened balls. We saw very 
 
328 SICKNESS. 
 
 few birds in these mountains. We then traversed a well- watered 
 and highly cultivated country, and passed through the village of 
 Ma'alakah and the town of Zahley ; the first seated on a slope, 
 the last in a beautiful hollow of the mountain ; the borders of the 
 streams, tributaries of the Litany, in sight below, lined with wil- 
 low and a profusion of the silver-leaved poplar. Near the town, 
 we met a fellah on a donkey, travelling with all his effects ; they 
 consisted of a mat, two cushions, a pipe and an aba. 
 
 From this place I sent the interpreter ahead to engage quarters 
 for us in the vicinity of Beirut, if the ship were not there, as 
 medical attendance would be required immediately upon our 
 arrival. The horse he rode, the best traveller we had, died upon 
 the way. Descending and skirting along the root of Lebanon, 
 we turned and clambered up again, and stopped to rest at noon 
 upon a terrace overlooking the whole plain of Btik'ah — a glorious 
 sight — but we were too sick to enjoy it. 
 
 P. M., started again — two of the party scarce able to sit upon 
 their horses — but w T e were obliged to proceed for want of accom- 
 modation. The road was a most execrable one, leading over the 
 summit ridges of the Lebanon — a keen, cold wind blowing from 
 south-west. From the highest summit we could see the mist 
 above the sea, but not the sea itself. Soon after, we were com- 
 pelled to stop, and camped near a dirty khan, on a little platform 
 overlooking the lovely valley of Emana, one thousand feet below. 
 It was a cold night, during which Mr. Dale was attacked with 
 the same symptoms as the other sick. One of the party, going 
 out of the tent in the dark, nearly fell over the ledge down the 
 precipice. 
 
 Friday, June 30. A chilly morning — misty clouds sweeping 
 over the mountain-tops and resting in the chasms. We were 
 4000 feet above the level of the sea. The two first taken sick 
 were better, but Mr. Dale was worse. In company with Mr. 
 Bedlow, I sent him ahead, that he might obtain the best medical 
 advice as soon as possible. 
 
 Started at 7 A. M., the road winding over almost impassable 
 mountain ridges, in some places by steps cut in the rock, and yet 
 
ARRIVAL AT THE SEA-SHORE. 329 
 
 it is the high road from Beirut to Damascus — one, the principal 
 sea-port, and the other, the capital of all Syria. In our weak 
 condition, we travelled slowly ; the way seemed to grow longer 
 as the day wore on, and the coolness of the morning was suc- 
 ceeded by the scorching heat of noon. 
 
 For a short distance we travelled along an old Roman road, 
 the curb-stones distinctly perceptible. At 11, Beirut and the sea 
 in sight, but the sick scarce able to keep their saddles, when 
 fortunately we met our countryman, Dr. De Forest, of the Evan- 
 gelical Mission, who prescribed some medicine to be adminis- 
 tered as soon as possible. Soon after, stopped at a khan for that 
 purpose. In an hour started again, and near the village of 
 Bhamdun passed some deposites of petrified clam and oyster 
 shells, with some ammonites. Just below was ferruginous sand- 
 stone, which dipped towards the west, next carbonate of lime 
 and calcareous limestone. At one place the crumbling sandstone 
 presented a variety of hues, light brown, dark brown, maroon, 
 purple, yellow, and pink. Two miles below, the sandstone 
 dipped into the plain, and vegetation increased. The wheat, 
 which grew so sparsely up the mountains as to be plucked up by 
 the roots, was succeeded by the fig, the apricot, the vine, dhoura, 
 beans, cucumbers and melons, while three-fourths of the space 
 was covered with the mulberry. Along the road, just where 
 the mountain sinks into the plain, were many carob trees, resem- 
 bling the cherry in its trunk and limbs, and the colour of its bark, 
 the apple tree in its leaves, and the catalpa in its fruit — a long 
 narrow bean of an insipid sweet taste. As we opened the har- 
 bour of Beirut, our strained eyes sought in vain for the ship we 
 so longed to see. My heart sank within me, as, after many alter- 
 nations of hope and fear, the only three-masted vessel in the port 
 proved not to be the Supply. The end who could foresee ! 
 
 The luxuriant foliage of the plain intercepted the light breeze 
 we had felt in the mountains, and it was excessively sultry ; but 
 traversing the groves of pine, planted to arrest the encroachments 
 of sand from the sea, and thence, riding through gardens that 
 seemed interminable, we at length reached our quarters upon 
 28 * 
 
330 ILLNESS OF MR. DALE. 
 
 the shore. Some of us were unable to dismount, from sheer 
 exhaustion ; Mr. Dale, two of the seamen, and myself, requiring 
 immediate medical attendance. 
 
 Saturday, July 1. All hands, nearly, sick. Dr. Suquet, a 
 French physician, sent by his government to study the diseases 
 of Syria, in attendance ; but, feeling uneasy about two cases, 1 
 sent an express for Dr. De Forest. The weather warm and 
 relaxing. 
 
 Sunday, July 2. The sick mostly better. Dr. De Forest 
 arrived. He said that much care was required ; but that with 
 care no danger was to be apprehended. He declined compen- 
 sation. Weather warm but not oppressive. 
 
 Monday, July 3. The sick much better, except one new case. 
 Our wounded man came to see us. We were ever scanning the 
 horizon for the expected ship. 
 
 Tuesday, July 4. Sick convalescent with the exception of one 
 of the seamen, attacked early in the morning. At noon, fired 
 twenty-one guns in honour of the day. Weather warm. 
 
 On Monday, the 10th, Mr. Dale, in the hope of being more 
 speedily invigorated by the mountain air, rode to Bhamdun, a 
 village about twelve miles distant up the mountain. It was the 
 dreadful Damascus road, which we had travelled eleven days 
 before. He arrived thoroughly exhausted, but was the next day 
 much recruited. On the second day, however, a sirocco set in, 
 which lasted three days, and completely prostrated him. On the 
 17th I received intelligence that he was very ill, and immediately 
 hastened up, and found him partially delirious. He laboured 
 under a low, nervous fever, the same which had carried off Cos- 
 tigan and Molyneaux. He was in the house of the Rev. Mr. 
 Smith, of the American Presbyterian Mission, and received from 
 all its members there the kindest and most assiduous nursing. 
 Dr. De Forest was in constant attendance day and night, and his 
 wife was as a ministering angel to the invalid. Dr. Vandyke 
 came some distance to see him, and his case received every alle- 
 viation that the warmest sympathy could afford. 
 
 My poor friend lingered until the evening of the 24th, when 
 
BURIAL OF MR. DALE. 331 
 
 he expired so gently, that it was difficult to tell the moment of 
 dissolution. Determined to take his remains home, if possible, 1 
 started immediately with them for Beirut. It was a slow, dreary 
 ride down the rugged mountain by torchlight. As I followed the 
 body of my late companion, accompanied only by swarthy Arabs, 
 and thought of his young and helpless children, I could scarce 
 repress the wish that I had been taken, and he been spared. At 
 times, the wind, sweeping in fitful gusts, nearly extinguished the 
 torches ; and again their blaze would stream up with a lurid glare, 
 as we made our way through chasms and hollows, enveloped in a 
 dense and palpable mist. We reached the neighbourhood of the 
 town at daylight, and the body was immediately placed in three 
 coffins, (one metallic, and two wooden ones,) and laid in a vacant 
 building. 
 
 In the gloom, consequent on our loss, we waited impatiently 
 for the Supply ; but in vain we hourly scanned the horizon. On 
 the 30th, one month after our return, the physicians advised us to 
 leave at once, as there could be no hope of the recovery of the 
 sick at Beirut. I therefore chartered a small French brig, to take 
 our boats and effects, the body of our friend, and ourselves, to 
 Malta. An unhappy accident in the transportation of the remains 
 from the shore to the vessel, and the superstitious fears of the 
 French captain and his crew, compelled me most reluctantly to 
 land them. About sunset, as the Turkish batteries were saluting 
 the first night of the Ramedan, we escorted the body to the Frank 
 cemetery, and laid it beneath a Pride of India tree. A few most 
 appropriate chapters in the Bible were read, and some affecting 
 remarks made by the Rev. Mr. Thompson ; after which, the 
 sailors advanced, and fired three volleys over the grave ; and thus, 
 amid unbidden tears and stifled sobs, closed the the obsequies of 
 our lamented companion and friend. 
 
 At 9 P. M., we embarked on board of La Perle d'Orient; and, 
 after a tedious passage of thirty-eight days, during which we suf- 
 fered much from sickness, debility, and scarcity of food and 
 water, we reached Malta, and received every possible attention 
 from our Consul, Mr. Winthrop. Coming from a sickly climate, 
 
332 ANALYSIS OF DEAD SEA WATER. 
 
 we were not permitted to enter the town, or to associate with any 
 one, but were confined in a building apart. 
 
 On the 12th of September, the Supply having arrived, I had 
 the satisfaction of reembarking the Expedition, with only three 
 of its members on the sick-report. 
 
 Sailing thence, we touched at Naples, Marseilles, and Gibraltar, 
 in the hope of procuring supplies ; but, in the two first places, 
 we were refused pratique, and from the last, we were peremp- 
 torily ordered away. Like the dove that could find no resting- 
 place, our weary ship then winged her way for home ; and 
 depending on the rains of heaven to replenish our water, we 
 were, early in December, greeted with the heart-cheering sight 
 of our native land. 
 
 Analysis of the Dead Sea Water, by James C. Booth and 
 Alexander Muckle. 
 
 Specific gravity at 60° =• 1.22742 
 
 Chloride of magnesium, 145.8971 
 
 « calcium, 31.0746 
 
 " sodium, 78.5537 
 
 " potassium, 6.5860 
 
 Bromide of potassium, 1.3741 
 
 Sulphate of lime, 0.7012 
 
 264.1867 
 Water, 735.8133 
 
 "iooo.oooo 
 
 Total amount of solid matter found by direct experiment, 267.0000 
 
 THE END. 
 
LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 NOW READY. 
 
 JOHNSTON'S PHYSICAL ATLAS. 
 
 THE PHYSICAL ATLAS 
 
 OF NATURAL PHENOMENA. 
 
 FOR THE USE OF COLLEGES, ACADEMIES, AND FAMILIES. 
 
 BY ALEXANDER KEITH JOHNSTON, F. R. G. S., F. G. S. 
 
 Geographer at Edinburgh in Ordinary to her Majesty, Honorary Member 
 
 of the Geographical Society, Berlin. 
 
 In one large volume, imperial quarto, handsomely bound, 
 
 With Twenty-six Plates, Engraved and Colored in the best style. 
 
 Together with 112 pages of Descriptive Letter-press, and a very copious Index. 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 GEOLOGY. 
 
 1. Geological Structure of the Globe. 
 
 2. Mountain Chains of Europe and Asia. 
 
 3. Mountain Chains of America. 
 
 4. Illustration of the Glacier System of 
 
 the Alps. (Mont Blanc.) 
 
 5. Phenomena of Volcanic Action. 
 Palaeontological and Geological Map of 
 
 the British Islands. (Frontispiece.) 
 
 HYDROGRAPHY. 
 
 1. Physical Chart of the Atlantic Ocean. 
 
 2. Physical Chart of the Indian Ocean. 
 
 3. Physical Chart of the Pacific Ocean or 
 
 Great Sea. 
 
 4. Tidal Chart of the British Seas. 
 
 5. The River Systems of Europe and 
 
 Asia. 
 
 6. The River Systems of America. 
 
 Tidal Chart of the World. 
 
 METEOROLOGY. 
 
 1. Humboldt's System of Isothermal Lines. 
 
 2. Geographical Distribution of the Cur- 
 rents of Air. 
 
 3. Hyetographic or Rain Map of the 
 World. 
 
 4. Hyetographic or Rain Map of Europe. 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 1. Geographical Distribution of Plants. 
 
 2. Geographical Distribution of the Culti 
 vated Plants used as Food. 
 
 3. Geographical Distribution of Quadru- 
 mana, Edentata, Marsupialia, and 
 Pachydermata. 
 
 4. Geographical Distribution ofCarnivora 
 
 5. Geographical Distribution of Rodentia 
 and Ruminantia. 
 
 6. Geographical Distribution of Birds. 
 
 7. Geographical Distribution of Reptiles 
 
 8. Ethnographic Map of the World. 
 
 9. Ethnographic Map of Great Britain 
 and Ireland. 
 
 This very conviction of its value would lead us to urge upon Mr. Johnston the ex 
 pediency of some reduced form of his great Atlas, which might render it more access- 
 ible to common readers. * * We know of no work of which the methods are so 
 well fitted for the instruction of those who come ignorantiy to the subject.— Quarterly 
 Review. 
 
 To the scholar, to the student, and to the already large, yet daily increasing multi- 
 tude of inquirers who cultivate natural science, the Physical Atlas is a treasure of 
 incalculable value. It brings before the mind's eye, in one grand panoramic view, 
 and in a form clear, definite, and easily comprehensible, all the facts at present 
 known relative to the great subjects of which it treats, and may be regarded as a 
 lucid epitome of a thousand scattered volumes, more or less intrinsically valuable, of 
 which it contains the heart and substance.— Blackwood's Magazine. 
 
 J3y devoting a single hour to the contemplation of our globe in the diorama of a Phy- 
 sical Atlas, the student will witness the grandeur of the tenement in which he dwells, 
 and will not fail to appreciate the beautiful conception of Humboldt, when he speaks 
 ot •' the life of the earth."— North British Review. 
 
 The author avails herself with much pleasure, of an opportunity of expressing her 
 admiration of the accuracy, extent, and execution of Mr. Keith Johnston's Physical 
 Atlas, and of the valuable information contained in the letterpress which accompanies 
 it, which has afforded her the greatest assistance. It was the author's wish, and her 
 publisher's intention, that the present edition should be accompanied by a series of 
 maps to illustrate the more important questions of Physical tVeot;raphy treated of in 
 it ; but Mr. A. Keith Johnston having announced the publication of a new edition of 
 his "Physical Atlas," in a reduced size at a low price— the first two numbers of 
 which have already appeared— the project was relinquished, in the belief that Mr. A. 
 K. Johnston's smaller Atlas will furnish suitable illustrations to this work.— From the 
 New Edition of Mrs. SomerviMs Physica' Geography. 
 
LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 SOMERVILLE'S PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 New Edition, much improved. Now Ready. 
 
 PHYSICAL "GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 BY MAEY SOMERVILLE, 
 
 AUTHOR OF " THE CONNECTION OF THE PHYSICAL SCIENCES," ETC. ETC. 
 
 SECOND AMERICAN EDITION, 
 
 From the Second and Revised London Edition, 
 
 WITH AMERICAN NOTES, GLOSSARY, &C. 
 
 In one neat royal 12mo. volume, extra cloth, of over 500 pages. 
 
 The great success of this work, and its introduction into many of the higher schools 
 and academies, have induced the publishers to prepare a new and much improved 
 edition. In addition to the corrections and improvements of the author bestowed on 
 the work in its passage through the press a second time in London, notes have been 
 introduced to adapt it more fully to the physical geography of this country ; and a 
 comprehensive glossary has been added, rendering the volume more particularly 
 suited to educational purposes. The amount of these additions may be understood 
 from the fact, that not only has the size of the page been increased, but the volume 
 itself enlarged by over one hundred and fifty pages. At the same time, the price 
 has not been increased. 
 
 While reading this work, we could not help thinking how interesting, as well as 
 useful, geography as a branch of education might be made in our schools. In many of 
 them, however, this is not accomplished. It is to be hoped that this defect will be 
 remedied ; and that in all our educational institutions Geography will soon be taught 
 in the proper way. Mrs. Somerville's work may, in this respect, be pointed to as a 
 model. — Taifs Edinburgh Magazine. 
 
 Although there are few subjects drier and more uninteresting in their details than 
 Geography, when confined to descriptions of the mere form of the earth, the height of 
 its mountains, the length and breadth of its rivers, with the extent of its oceans, the 
 whole features of this study become changed when, instead of regarding the objects 
 which it embraces in their present condition or superficial character, we enter on their 
 past history and examine their nature and relations by the light of modern science. 
 
 Springs, rivers, inland seas, and lakes follow in their turn the ocean ; and each is 
 treated in the same judicious way. No more is said than is necessary to the under- 
 standing of these subjects in their proper relations; whilst every fact is stated in a 
 lucid and interesting manner. — The Athenceum. 
 
 An admirable work, full of varied information and wholesome philosophy.— New 
 Orleans Bee. 
 
 We have thus followed Mrs. Somerville through her intellectual journey over the 
 globe, delighted and improved by her instructions, and anxious that others should de- 
 rive from it the same pleasure and advantage. From the extracts which we have 
 made, the reader will see that the work is written in a style always simple and per- 
 spicuous, often vigorous and elegant, occasionally rising to a strain of eloquence, 
 commensurate with the lofty ideas which it clothes. In Mrs. Somerville's pages no 
 sentiments are recorded which the Christian or philosopher disowns. In associating 
 life with nature — in taking cognizance of man as tenant of the earth-home which she 
 describes, her aspirations ever after truth, secular and divine, and everywhere through- 
 out her work we meet with just and noble sentiments, the indication and the offspring 
 of a highly cultivated and well balanced mind.— North British Review. 
 
 From the information given, and the strength of thought displayed, on almost every 
 page, the work is equally entitled to an attentive perusal. — S. Literary Mtssenger. 
 
 Our praise comes lagging in the rear, and is well-nigh superfluous. But we are 
 anxious to recommend \o our youth the enlarged method of studying geography which 
 her present work demonstrates to be as captivating as it is instructive. Nowhere, 
 except in her own previous work, The Connexion of the Physical Sciences, is there 
 to be found so large a store of well-selected information so lucidly set forth. In sur- 
 veying and grouping together whatever has been seen by the eyes of others, or detect- 
 ed by their laborious investigations, she is not surpassed by any one. We have no 
 obscurities other than what the imperfect slate of science itself involves her in ; no 
 dissertations which are felt to interrupt or delay. She strings her beads distinct and 
 close together. With quiet perspicacity she seizes at once whatever is most interest- 
 ing and most captivating in her subject. Therefore it is we are for the book ; and we 
 hold such presents as Mrs. Somerville has bestowed upon the public, to be of incalcu- 
 lable value, disseminating more sound information than all the literary and scientific 
 institutions will accomplish in a whole cycle of their existence.— Blackxoootfs Mag. 
 
LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
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 port of the scientific public, and at the same lime one of the handsomest specimens of 
 typographical and artistic execution which has appeared in this country. 
 
 Specimens of the Engravings and style of the volumes may be had on application to the 
 
 publishers. 
 
 MULLER'S PHYSICS-LATELY ISSUED, 
 
 PRINCIPLES 
 
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 BY PROFESSOR J. MULLER, M. D. 
 
 EDITED, WITH ADDITIONS, BY R. EGLESFELD GRIFFITH, M. D. 
 
 In one large and handsome octavo volume, with 550 wood-cuts, and two 
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 BY FRANCIS MOIIR, Ph. D., 
 
 Assessor Pharmacia) of the Royal Prussian College of Medicine, Coblentz; 
 
 AND THEOPHILUS REDWOOD, 
 
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LEA & BLANCHARB'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 Library of Illustrated Scientific Works.— Continued* 
 
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 T E C H NO L G Y; 
 
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 BY DR. F. KNAPP, 
 
 Professor at the University of Giessen. 
 
 Edited, with numerous Notes and Additions, by 
 
 DR. EDMUND RONALDS, and DR. THOMAS RICHARDSON, 
 
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 BY PROFESSOR WALTER R. JOHNSON. 
 
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 the English reader. — Franklin Institute Journal. 
 
 WEISBACH'S MECHANICS. 
 
 PRINCIPLES of The mechanics 
 OF MACHINERY AND ENGINEERING, 
 
 By Professor JULIUS WEISBACH. 
 
 TRANSLATED AND EDITED 
 
 BY PROFESSOR GORDON, OF GLASGOW, 
 
 First American Edition, with Additions, 
 
 By Prof. WALTER R. JOHNSON. 
 
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 The most valuable contribution to practical science that has yet appeared in this 
 country. — Athenceum. 
 
 In every way worthy of being recommended to our readers —Franklin Institute 
 Journal. 
 
 From Charles H. Haswell, Esq., Engineer in Chief, U. S. N. 
 
 The design of the author in supplying the instructor with a guide for teaching, and 
 the student with an auxiliary for the acquirement of the science of mechanics, has, 
 in my opinion, been attained in a most successful manner. The illustrations, in the 
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 It will afford me much pleasure to recommend its use by the members of the pro- 
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 In this edition, Volume One contains Vols. 1, 2 and 3 of the 12mo. edition ; 
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 From his Accession to the Death of Queen Caroline, 
 
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LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
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 OUTLINES OF ENGLISH LITERATURE. 
 
 BY THOMAS B. SHAW, 
 
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 In one large and handsome royal 12mo. volume. 
 
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 find its way into all libraries. — N. Y. Knickerbocker. 
 
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 prosecuted his large task, the general candor and liberality with which he has analyzed the lives 
 and characters of a long succession of influential magistrates and ministers, and the manly style 
 of his narrative. We need hardly say that we shall expect with great interest the continuation 
 of this performance. But the present series of itself is more than sufficient to give Lord Campbell 
 a high station among the English authors of his age."— Quarterly Review. 
 
 " The volumes teem with exciting incidents, abound in portraits, sketches and anecdotes, and are 
 at once interesting and instructive. The work is not only historical and biographical, but it is 
 anecdotal and philosophical. Many of the chapters embody thrilling incidents, while as a whole, 
 the publication may be regarded as of a high intellectual order."— Inquirer. 
 
 "A work in three handsome octavo volumes, which we shall regard as both an ornament and an 
 honor to our library. A History of the Lord Chancellors of England from the institution of the 
 office, is necessarily a History of the Constitution, the Court, and the Jurisprudence of the King- 
 dom, and these volumes teem with a world of collateral matter of the Liveliest character for the 
 general reader, as well as with much of the deepest interest for the professional or philosophical 
 mind." — Saturday Courier. 
 
 " The brilliant success of this work in England is by no means greater than its merits. It is 
 tiertainly the most brilliant contribution to English history made within our recollection ; it has 
 the charm and freedom of Biography combined with the elaborate and careful comprehensiveness 
 of History."— N. Y. Tribune. 
 
 MURRAY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 THE EN CYCLOPAEDIA OF GEOGRAPHY, 
 
 COMPRISING 
 
 A COMPLETE DESCRIPTION OF THE EARTH, PHYSICAL, 
 STATISTICAL, CIVIL AND POLITICAL. 
 
 EXHIBITING 
 
 ITS RELATION TO THE HEAVENLY BODIES, ITS PHYSICAL STRUCTURE, THE 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY OF EACH COUNTRY, AND THE INDUSTRY, 
 
 COMMERCE, POLITICAL INSTITUTIONS. AND CIVIL 
 
 AND SOCIAL STATE OF ALL NATIONS. 
 
 BY HUGH MURRAY, F.R.S.E., &c. 
 
 Assisted in Botany, by Professor HOOKER— Zoology, <tc, by W. W. SWAINSON— Astronomy, &.c. 
 
 by Professor WALLACE— Geology, <tc, by Professor JAMESON. 
 
 REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS, 
 
 BY THOMAS G. BRADFORD. 
 
 THE WHOLE BROUGHT UP, BY A SUPPLEMENT, T O 1813. 
 In three large octavo volumes. 
 
 VARIOUS STYLES OF BINDING. 
 
 This great work, furnished at u remarkably cheap rate, contains about 
 Nineteen Hundred large imperial Pages, and is illustrated by Eighty- 
 Two small Maps, and a colored Map of the United States, after Tan 
 ner's, together with about Eleven Hundred Wood Cuts executed in the 
 best style. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 STKICRLAND'S QUEENS OF ENGLAND. 
 
 A NEW AND ELEGANT EDITION 
 
 OF 
 
 LIVES OF THE QUEENS OF ENGLAND, 
 
 FROM THE NORMAN CONQUEST; 
 
 WITH ANECDOTES OF THEIR COURTS, NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM OFFICIAI 
 
 RECORDS AND OTHER AUTHENTIC DOCUMENTS, PRIVATE AS WELL AS PUBLIC. 
 
 NEW EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 
 
 BY AGNES STRICKLAND. 
 
 Forming a handsome series in crown octavo, beautifully printed with large type on fine paper, done 
 up in rich extra crimson cloth, and sold at a cheaper rate than former editions. 
 
 Volume One, of nearly seven hundred large pages, containing Volumes 
 One, Two, and Three, of the duodecimo edition, and Volume Two, of more 
 than six hundred pages, containing Volumes Four and Five of the 12mo., 
 have just been issued. The remainder will follow rapidly, two volumes in 
 one, and the whole will form an elegant set of one of the most popular his- 
 tories of the day. The publishers have gone to much expense in pre- 
 paring this from the revised and improved London edition, to meet the fre • 
 quent inquiries for the " Lives of the Queens of England," in better stylej 
 larger type, and finer paper than has heretofore been accessible to readers 
 in this country. Any volume of this edition sold separately. 
 
 A few copies still on hand of the Duodecimo Edition. Ten volumes are 
 now ready. Vol. I. — Contains Matilda of Flanders, Matilda of Scotland, 
 Adelicia of Louvaine, Matilda of Boulogne, and Eleanor of Aquitaine. 
 Price 50 cents, in fancy paper. Vol. II. — Berengaria of Navarre, Isabella 
 of Angouleme, Eleanor of Provence, Eleanor of Castile, Marguerite of 
 France, Isabella of France, Philippa of Hainault, and Anne of Bohemia. 
 Price 50 cents. Vol. III. — Isabella of Vaiois, Joanna of Navarre, Katha- 
 rine of Valois, Margaret of Anjou, Elizabeth Woodville, and Ann of War- 
 wick. Price 50 cents. Vol. IV. — Elizabeth of York, Katharine of Arragon, 
 Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, and Katharine Howard. 
 Price 65 cents. Vol. V. — Katharine Parr and Queen Mary. Price 65 cents. 
 Vol. VI. — Queen Elizabeth. Price 65 cents. Vol. VII. — Queen Elizabeth 
 (continued), and Anne of Denmark. Price 65 cents. Vol. VIII. — Henrietta 
 Maria and Catharine of Braganza. Price 65 cents. Vol. IX. — Mary of 
 Modena. Price 75 cents. Vol. X. — Mary of Modena (continued), and 
 Mary II. Price 75 cents. 
 
 Any volume sold separately, or the whole to match in neat green cloth. 
 JUST PUBLISHED 
 
 VOLHME TEST: 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 MARY OF MODENA, AND MARY II. 
 
 Price 75 cents in fancy paper. — Also, in extra green cloth. 
 
 "These volumes have the fascination of a romance united to the integrity of history." — Times. 
 
 " A most valuable and entertaining work."— Chronicle. 
 
 " This interesting and well-written work, in which the severe truth of history takes almost the 
 wiklness of romance, will constitute a valuable addition to our biograplucal literature." — Morning 
 Herald. 
 
 "A valuable contribution to historical knowledge, to young persons especially. It contains a 
 mass of every kind of historical matter of interest, which industry and research could collect. We 
 have derived much entertainment and instruction from the work."— Athenceum. 
 
 " The execution of this work is equal to the conception. Great pains have been taken to make 
 if both interesting and valuable."— Literary Gazette. 
 
 " A charming work — full of interest, at once serious and pleasing."— Monsieur Guizot. 
 
 ' h most charming biographical memoir. We conclude by expressing our unqualified opinion, 
 that we know of no more valuable contribution to modern history than tins ninth volume of M;.«e 
 Strickland's Lives of the Queens."— Morning Hf.rnld. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 SCHOOL BOOKS. 
 
 SCHMITZ AND ZUMPT'S CLASSICAL SERIES. 
 
 VOLUME I. 
 
 C. JULII C^SARIS 
 
 COMMENTARII DE BELLO GALLICO. 
 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTION, NOTES, AND A GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX IN ENGLISH, 
 ALSO, A MAP OF GAUL, AND ILLUSTRATIVE ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 In one handsome 18mo. volume, extra cloth. 
 This Series has been placed under the editorial management of two eminent scbolun 
 and practical teachers, Dr. Schmitz, Rector of the High School, Edinburgh, and Dr. 
 Zumpt, Professor in the University of Berlin, and will combine the following advan- 
 tages :— 
 
 1. A gradually ascending series of School Books on a uniform plan, so as to .constitute within a 
 definite number, a complete Latin Curriculum. 
 
 2. Certain arrangements in the rudimentary volumes, which will insure a fair amount of know- 
 ledge in .Roman literature to those who are riot designed for professional life, and who therefore 
 will not require to extend their studies to the advanced portion of the series. 
 
 3. The text of each author will be such as has been constituted by the most recent collations of 
 manuscripts, and will be prefaced by biographical and critical sketches in English, that pupils may 
 be made aware of the character and peculiarities of the work they are about to study. 
 
 4. To remove difficulties, and sustain an interest in the text, explanatory notes in English will 
 be placed at the foot of each page, and such comparisons drawn as may serve to unite the history 
 of the past with the realities of modern times. 
 
 5. The works, generally, will be embellished with maps and illustrative engravings,— accompani- 
 ments which will greatly assist the student's comprehension of the nature of the countries and 
 leading circumstances described. 
 
 6. The respective volumes will be issued at a price considerably less than that usually charged ; 
 and as the texts are from the most eminent sources, and the whole series constructed upon a de- 
 terminate plan, the practice of issuing new and altered editions, which is complained of alike by 
 tfcuChers and pupils, will be altogether avoided. 
 
 From among the testimonials which the publishers have received, they append the 
 
 following to show that the design of the series has been fully and successfully carried 
 
 out;— 
 
 Central High School, Phila., June 29, 18i"Z 
 Gentlemen : — 
 
 I have been much pleased with your edition of Cesar's Gallic Wars, being part of Schmitz and 
 Zumpt's classical series for schools. The work seems happily adapted to the wants of learners. 
 The notes contain much valuable information, concisely and accurately expressed, and on the points 
 that really require elucidation, while at the same time the book is not rendered tiresome and ex- 
 pensive by a useless arrav of mere learning. The text is one in high repute, and your reprint of it 
 is pleasing to the eye. I take great pleasure in commending the publication to the attention of 
 teachers. It will, I am persuaded, commend itself to all who give it a fair examination. 
 
 Very Respectfully, Your Obt. Servt.. 
 
 JOHN S. HART. 
 To Messrs. Lea & Blanchard. Principal Phila. High School. 
 
 Gentlemen — June 28 ' 184T 
 
 The edition of "Cesar's Commentaries," embraced in the Classical Section of Chambers's Edu- 
 cational Course, and given to the world under the auspices of Drs. Schmitz ami Zumpt has re- 
 ceived from me a candid examination. I have no hesitation in sayin?, that the design ev 
 the notice of the publishers, has been successfully accomplished, and that the work is \.;:!i calcu- 
 lated to become popular and useful. The text appears to be unexceptionable. The annotations 
 embraCJ i form such valuable information, as must not only facilitate the resear< h <■, 
 
 ihe scholar, but also stimulate to further inquiry, •without encouraging mdolence. Tins is an im- 
 portant feature in the right prosecution of classical studies, which ought to be more' generally un- 
 derstood and appreciated. , EL HAVERSTIC 
 Prof, of Ancient Languages, Central High School, i 
 
 VOLUME II. 
 
 P. VIRGILII MARONIS CARmlNA. 
 
 NEARLY READY. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 SCHOOL BOOKS, 
 
 BIRD'S NATURAL PHILOSOPHY. 
 
 NEARLY READY. 
 
 ELEMENTS OF NATURAL PHILOSOPHY, 
 
 BEING AN EXPERIMENTAL INTRODUCTION TO THE PHYSICAL SCIENCES. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH OVER THREE HUNDRED WOOD-CUTS. 
 
 BY GOLDING BIRD, M.D., 
 
 Assistant Physician to Guy's Hospital. 
 
 FROM THE THIRD LONDON EDITION. 
 
 In one neat volume. 
 
 "By the appearance of Dr. Bird's work, the student has now all that he can desire in one neat, 
 concise, and well-di?ested volume. The elements of natural philosophy are explained in very sim- 
 ple language, and illustrated by numerous wood-cuts."— Medical Gazette. 
 
 ARNOTT'S PHYSICS. 
 
 ELEMENTS OF PHYSICS; OR, NATURAL PHILOSOPHY, 
 
 GENERAL AND MEDICAL. 
 
 WRITTEN FOR UNIVERSAL USE, IN PLAIN, OR NON-TECHNICAL LANGUAGE. 
 
 BY NIELL AENOTT, JVI.D. 
 
 A NEW EDITION, BY ISAAC HAYS, M. D. 
 
 Complete in one octavo volume, with nearly two hundred wood-cuts. 
 
 This standard work has been long and favourably known as one of the best popular expes&ibns 
 of the interesting science it treats of. It is extensively used in many of the first seminaries. 
 
 ELEMENTARY CHEMISTRY, THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL. 
 
 BY GEORGE POWNE S, Ph. D., 
 
 Chemical Lecturer in the Middlesex Hospital Medical School, &c, &c. 
 WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 EDITED, WITH ADDITIONS, 
 
 BY ROBERT BRIDGES, M. D., 
 
 Professor of General and Pharmaceutical Chemistry in the Philadelphia College of Pharmacy, &c. , <tc 
 
 SECOND AMERICAN EDITION. 
 
 In one large duodecimo volume, sheep or extra cloth, with nearly two 
 
 hundred wood-cuts. 
 
 The character of this work is such as to recommend it to all colleges and academies in want of a 
 text-book. It is fully brought up to the day, containing all the late views and discoveries that have 
 so entirely changed the face of the science, and it is completely illustrated with very numerous 
 wood engravings, explanatory of all the different processes and forms of apparatus. Though strictly 
 scientific, it is written with great clearness and simplicity of style, rendering it easy to be compre- 
 hended by those who are commencing the study. 
 
 It may be had well bound in leather, or neatly done up in strong cloth. Its low price places it 
 within the reach of all. 
 
 BREWSTER'S OPTICS, 
 
 ELEMSNTS €>r OPTICS, 
 
 BY SIR DAVID BREWSTER. 
 
 WITH NOTES AND ADDITIONS, BY A. D. BACHE, LL.D. 
 
 Superintendent of the Coast Survey, <kc. 
 
 In one volume, 12mo., with numerous wood-cuts. 
 
LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 SCHOOL BOOKS, 
 
 BOLIYIAR'S FRENCH SERIES. 
 
 New editions of the following works, by A. Bolmak, forming, in con- 
 nection with "Bolmar's Levizac," a complete series for the acquisition of 
 the French language. 
 
 A SELECTION OF ONE HUNDRED PERRIN'S FABLES, 
 
 ACCOMPANIED BY A KEY, 
 
 Containing the text, a literal and free translation, arranged in such a manner n? to 
 
 point out the difference between the French and English idiom, &.C., in 1 vol., 12mo. 
 
 A COLLECTION OF COLLOQUIAL PHRASES, 
 
 ON EVERY TOPIC NECESSARY TO MAINTAIN CONVERSATION, 
 Arranged under different heads, with numerous remarks on the peculiar pronunciation 
 and uses of various words; the whole so disposed as considerably to facilitate the 
 acquisition of a correct pronunciation of the French, in 1 vol., 18mo. 
 
 LES AVENTURES DE TELEMAQJJE PAR FENELON, 
 
 In 1 vol., 12mo., accompanied by a Key to the first eight books, in 1 vol., 12mo., con- 
 taining, like the Fables, the text, a literal and free translation, intended as a sequel 
 to the Fables. Either volume sold separately. 
 
 ALL THE FRENCH VERBS, 
 
 Both regular and irregular, in a small volume. 
 
 NEARLY READY. 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF PHYSICS AND METEOROLOGY. 
 
 BY J. MULLER, 
 
 Professor of Physics at the University of Frieburg. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH NEARLY FIVE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD, AND TWO 
 COLORED PLATES. 
 
 In one octavo volume. 
 This Edition is improved by the addition of various articles, and will be found in 
 every respect brought up to the time of publication. 
 
 "The Physics of Muller is a work, superb, complete, unique : the greatest want known to Eng- 
 lish Science could not have been better supplied. The work is of surpassing interest. The value 
 of this contribution to the scientific records of this country mav be duly estimated by the fact, that 
 the cost of the original drawings and engravings alone has exceeded the sum of 20007." — Lancet, 
 March, 1817. 
 
 AN ATLAS OP ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY, 
 
 BY SAMUEL BUTLER, D.D., 
 
 Late Lord Bishop of Litchfield, 
 
 CONTAINING TWENTY-ONE COLOURED MAPS, AND A COMPLETE ACCENTUATED INDEX. 
 
 In one octavo volume, half-bound. 
 
 BUTLER'S AN CIENT GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 GEOGRAPHXA CLASSICA, 
 
 OR, T'^E APPLICATION OF ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY TO TIIE CLASSICS 
 
 BY SAMUEL BUTLE R, D.D., F.R.S. 
 
 REVISED BY HIS SON. 
 
 FIFTH AMERICAN, FROM THE LAST LONDON EDITION, 
 
 WITH QUESTIONS ON THE MAPS, BY JOHN FROST. 
 In one duodecimo volume, half-bound, to match the Atlas. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 SCHOOL BOOKS 
 
 WHITE'S UNI VERS AL HISTORY. 
 
 LATELY PUBLISHED, 
 
 ELSMBKTS OP UNIVERSAL HISTORY, 
 
 ON A NEW AND SYSTEMATIC PLAN; 
 
 FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE TREATY OF VIENNA ; TO WHICH IS ADDED, A 
 
 SUMMARY OF THE LEADING EVENTS SINCE THAT PERIOD, FOR THE 
 
 USE OF SCHOOLS AND PRIVATE STUDENTS. 
 
 BY H. WHITE, B.A., 
 
 TRINITY COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE. 
 
 WITH ADDITIONS AND QUESTIONS, 
 BY JOHN S. HART, A.M., 
 
 Principal of the Philadelphia High School, and Professor of Moral and Mental Science, <tc, &c. 
 In one volume, large duodecimo, neatly bound with Maroon Backs. 
 
 This work is arranged on a new plan, which is believed to combine the 
 advantages of those formerly in use. It is divided into three parts, corre- 
 sponding with Ancient, Middle, and Modern History ; which parts are again 
 subdivided into centuries, so that the various events are presented in the 
 order of time, while it is so arranged that the annals of each country can be 
 read consecutively, thus combining the advantages of both the plans hitherto 
 pursued in works of this kind. To guide the researches of the student, 
 there will be found numerous synoptical tables, with remarks and sketches 
 of literature, antiquities, and manners, at the great chronological epochs. 
 
 The additions of the American editor have been principally confined to 
 the chapters on the history of this country. The series of questions by him 
 will be found of use to those who prefer that system of instruction. For 
 those who do not, the publishers have had an edition prepared without the 
 questions. 
 
 This work has already passed through several editions, and has been 
 introduced into many of "the higher Schools and Academies throughout the 
 country. From among numerous recommendations which they have re- 
 ceived, the publishers annex the following from the Deputy Superintendent ' 
 of Common Schools for New York: 
 
 Secretary's Office, ? State of New York. 
 
 Department of Common Schools. > Albany, Oct. Uth, lSi5. 
 
 Messrs. Lea $ Elanchard : 
 
 Gentlemen: — I have examined the copy of "White's Universal History," which you were so 
 obliging; as to send me, and cheerfully and fully concur in the commendations of its value, as a com- 
 prehensive and enlightened survey of the Ancient and Modern World which many of the most com- 
 petent judges have, as I perceive, already bestowed upon it. It appears to me to be admirably 
 adapted to the purposes of our public schools ; and I unhesitatingly approve of its introduction into 
 those seminaries of elementary instruction. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 SAMUEL S. RANDALL, 
 Deputy Superintendent Common Schools. 
 This work is admirably calculated for District and other libraries : an edition for that purpose 
 without questions has been prepared, done up in strong cloth. 
 
 HERSCHELL'S ASTRONOMY. 
 
 A TREATISE OET ASTRONOMY, 
 BY SIR JOHN F. W. IIERSCHELL, F. R. S., &c. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS PLATES AND WOOD-CUTS. 
 
 A NEW EDITION, WITH A PREFACE AND A SERIES OF QUESTIONS, 
 
 BY S. O. WALKER. 
 
 In one volume, 12mo. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 ROSCOE'S LIVES OF THE KINGS OF ENGLAND. 
 
 TO MATCH MISS STRICKLAND'S "QUEENS." 
 
 VOLUME ONE, CONTAINING THE 
 
 LIFE OF WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. 
 
 In neat royal duodecimo, extra cloth, 01 fancy paper. 
 
 "The historical reader will find this a work of peculiar interest. It displays throughout the 
 
 most pains-taking: research, and a style of narrative which has all the lucidity and strength of 
 
 Gibbon. It is a work with which, shedding such a light as we are justified in saying it will do 
 
 upon English history, every library ought to be provided." — Sunday Times. 
 
 MEMOIRS OF THE LOVES OF THE POETS. 
 
 Biographical Sketches of Women celebrated in Ancient and 
 
 Modern Poetry. 
 
 BY MRS. JAMIESON. 
 In one royal duodecimo volume, price 75 cents. 
 
 FREDERICK THE GREAT, HIS COURT AND TIMES, 
 
 EDITED, WITH AN INTRODUCTION, BY THOMAS CAMP. 
 
 BELL, ESQ., AUTHOR OF THE "PLEASURES OF HOPE." 
 
 Second Series, in two duodecimo volumes, extra cloth. 
 
 HISTORY OF CONGRESS, 
 
 EXHIBITING A CLASSIFICATION OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE SENATE AND THE 
 
 HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. FROM 1789 TO 1793. EMBRACING THE FIRST 
 
 TERM OF THE ADMINISTRATION OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. 
 
 In one large octavo volume of over 700 pages, price only $1.50. 
 THE HISTORY OF IRELAND, 
 
 FROM THE EARLIEST KINGS OF THAT REALM DOWN TO ITS LATEST CHIEFS. 
 
 In two octavo volumes, extra cloth. 
 
 Mr. Moore lias at length completed his History of Ireland containing the most troubled and inter- 
 esting periods through which it has passed. Those who have possessed themselves of the work aa 
 far as the Great Expedition against Scotland in 1515, can procure the second volume separate. 
 
 HISTORY OF ThTwarInTrAN^^ IN 1815, 
 
 CONTAINING. MINUTE DETAILS OF THE BATTLES OF QUATRE-BRAS, LIGNY. WAVRE 
 
 AND WATERLOO. 
 
 BY CAPTAIN W. SIBORNE. 
 
 In one octavo volume, with Maps and Plans of Battles, &c, viz.: 
 
 1. Part of Bt-lfi^um, indicating the distribution of the armies on commencing hostilities. 2. Field 
 of Q uatre-Bras, at 3 o'clock. P. M. 3. Field of Quatre-Bras, at 7 o'clock, P. M. 4. Field of Ligny, 
 at a quarter past 2 o'clock, P.M. 5. Field of Lisrny, at half past 8 o'clock, P. M. 6. Field ofWater- 
 loo. at a quarter past 11 o'clock, A. M. 7. Field of Waterloo, at a quarter before 8 o'clock, P. M. 
 8 l'n Id at '■•'. V' iioo, at 5 minutes past 8 o'clock, P. M. 9. Field of 'W avre, at 4 o'clock, P. M., 18th 
 June. 10. Field of Wane, at 4 o'clock, A. M., 19th June. 11. Part of France, on wluch is shown 
 the advance of the Allied Armies into the Kingdom. 
 
 TEXT BOOK OP ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 
 
 BY J. C. I GIESELER, PROFESSOR OF THEOLOGY IN GOTTINGEN. TRANSLATED 
 
 FROM THE THIRD GERMAN EDITION, BY F. CUNNINGILUI. 
 
 In three octavo volumes, containing over 1200 large pages. 
 
 ELEMENTS OE UNIVERSAL HISTORY, 
 
 ON A NEW AND SYSTEMATIC PLAN, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE TREATY 
 
 OF VIENNA, TO WHICH IS ADDED A SUMMARY OF THE LEADING 
 
 EVENTS SINCE THAT PERIOD. 
 
 BY H. WHITE, B.A. 
 
 SIXTH AMERICAN EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS 
 BY JOHN S. HART, A.M. 
 
 In one large royal 12mo. volume, neat extra cloth. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 GRAHAME'S COLONIAL HISTORY. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 VROM THE PLANTATION OF THE BRITISH COLONIES 
 
 TILL THEIR ASSUMPTION OF INDEPENDENCE. 
 
 SECOND AMERICAN EDITION, 
 
 ENLARGED AND AMENDED, 
 
 WITH A MEMOIR BY PRESIDENT QUINCY. 
 
 IN TWO LARGE OCTAVO VOLUMES, EXTRA CLOTH, 
 WITH A PORTRAIT. 
 
 This work having assumed the position of a standard history of thia 
 country, the publishers have been induced to issue an edition in smaller size 
 and at a less cosi, thai its circulation may be commensurate with its merits. 
 It is now considered as the most impartial and trustworthy history that has 
 yet appeared. 
 
 A few copies of the edition in four volumes, on extra fine thick paper, 
 price eight dollars, may still be had by gentlemen desirous of procuring a 
 beautiful work for their libraries. 
 
 " It is universally known to literary men as, in its original form, one of the earliest histories of 
 this country, and certainly one of the best ever written by a foreigner. It has been constantly and 
 copiously used by every one who has, since its appearauce, undertaken the history of this country. 
 In the course of the memoir prefixed to it, it is vindicated from the aspersions cast on it by Mr. 
 Bancroft, wno, nevertheless, has derived from it a vast amount of the information and documentary 
 material of his own ambitious, able and extended work. It is issued in two volumes, and cannot 
 fail to find its way to every library of any pretensions. — New York Courier and Enquirer. 
 
 COOPER'S NAVAL HISTORY. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE NAVY OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, 
 
 BY J. FENIMORE COOPER. 
 
 THIRD EDITION, WITH CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS. 
 
 Complete, two volumes in one, neat extra cloth, 
 
 With a Portrait of the Author, Two Maps, and Portraits of Paul Jones, Bainbridgb, 
 
 Dale, Preble, Decatur, Porter, Pekry, and McDonough. 
 
 WRAXALL'S HISTORICAL MEMOIRS. 
 
 HISTORICAL MEMOIRS OF MY OWN TIMES, 
 
 BY SIR N. W. WRAXALL. 
 
 ONE NEAT VOLUME, EXTRA CLOTH. 
 
 This is the work for which, in consequence of too truthful a portraiture of Catherine II., the 
 author was imprisoned and lined. Taught by this experience, his succeeding memoirs he sup- 
 pressed until after his death. 
 
 WRAXALL'S POSTHUMOUS MEMOIRS. 
 
 POSTHUMOUS MEMOIRS OF HIS OWN TIMES, 
 
 BY SIR N. W. WRAXALL. 
 
 IN ONE VOLUME, EXTRA CLOTH. 
 
 This work contains much secret and amusing anecdote of the prominent personages of the day, 
 rhich rendered its posthumous publication necessary 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 WALPOLE'S LET TERS AND MEMOIRS. 
 
 TIIE LETTERS OF HORACE WALPOLE, EARL OF ORFORD, 
 
 CONTAINING NEARLY THREE HUNDRED LETTERS. 
 NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINALS, AND FORMING AN UNINTER- 
 RUPTED SERIES FROM 1735 TO 1797. 
 
 In four large octavo volumes, with a portrait of the Author. 
 
 lljTpHsi^ 
 
 THE LETTERS OF HORACE WALPOLE, EARL OF ORFORD, 
 
 TO SIR HORACE MANN, FROM 17C0 TO 1785. 
 
 NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS. 
 
 In two octavo volumes, to match the above. 
 
 MEMOIRS OF THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD, 
 
 BY HORACE WALPOLE. 
 
 NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS. 
 
 EDITED, WITH NOTES, 
 
 BY SIR DENIS LE MARCHANT. 
 
 These Memoirs comprise the first twelve years of the reign of George III. ; and recommend 
 themselves especially to the reader in this country, as containing an account of the early trouble* 
 with America. They form a sequel to the " Memoirs of George the Second," by the same author. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE HUGUENOTS— A NEW EDITION, 
 
 CONTINUED TO THE PRESENT TIME. 
 
 BY W. S. BROWNING. 
 
 In one large octavo volume, extra cloth. 
 
 " One of the most interesting and valuable contributions to modern history." — Gentleman's Maga- 
 zine. 
 
 " Not the least interesting portion of the work has reference to the violence and persecutions 
 of 1815."— Times. 
 
 1NG ERSOL L'S LA TE WAR. 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OP THE SECOND WAR BETWEEN 
 
 THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AND GREAT 
 
 BRITAIN, DECLARED BY ACT OF CONGRESS, 
 
 JUNE 18, 1812, AND CONCLUDED BY 
 
 PEACE, FEBRUARY 15, 1815. 
 
 BY CHARLES J. ZNGEBSOLL. 
 
 One volume octavo of 516 pages, embracing the events of 1812 — 18]:!. 
 
 Beautifully printed, and done up in neat extra cloth. 
 
 r u sh ' s c o i u iFt^o TTonTc in . 
 
 MEMORANDA OF A RESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF LONDON, 
 
 COMPRISING INCIDENTS OFFICIAL AND PERSONAL, FROM 1SI9 TO 1825; 
 
 INCLUDLNO NEGOTIATIONS ON TIIE OREGON (iUESTlON, AND OTHER UNSETTLED RELATION8 
 BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES AND GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 BY RICHARD RUSH, 
 
 Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary from the United States, from 1817 to 1826 
 In one large and beautiful octavo volume, extra cloth. 
 
LEA AND BLAN CHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 NIEBU HR'S ROME. 
 
 THE HISTOE7 OF HOME, 
 
 BY B. G. NIEBUHR. 
 
 COMPLETE IN TWO LARGE OCTAVO VOLUMES. 
 
 Done up in extra cloth ; or five parts, paper, price $1.00 each. 
 
 The last three parts of this valuable book have never before been published in this country, hav- 
 Inp- only lately been printed in Germany, and translated in England. The two last of these com- 
 prise Professor Niebuhr's Lectures on the latter part of Roman History, so long lost to the world. 
 
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 dents of ancient history— to recover, as from the grave, the lectures before us."— Eclectic Review. 
 
 " The world has now in Niebuhr an imperishable model."— Edinburgh Review, Jan. 1&14. 
 
 "Here we close our remarks upon this memorable work, a work which, of all that have appeared 
 m our age, is the best fitted to excite men of learning to intellectual activity : from which the most 
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 cian may resort for theoretical and practical instruction, and which no person can read as it ought 
 to be read, without feeling the better and more generous sentiments of his common human nature 
 enlivened and strengthened." — Edinburgh Review. 
 
 "It is since I saw you that I have been devouring with the most intense admiration the third 
 volume of Niebuhr. The clearness and comprehensiveness of all his military details is a new 
 feature in that wonderful mind, and how inimitably beautiful is that brief account of Terni. "—Dr 
 Arnold (Life, vol. ii.) 
 
 PROFESSOR RANK E'S HI STORICAL WORKS. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE POPES, 
 
 THEIR CHURCH AND STATE, IN THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES. 
 BY LEOPOLD EANKE. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE LAST EDITION OF THE GERMAN, BY WALTER K. KELLY, ESQ., B. A. 
 
 In two parts, paper, at §1.00 each, or one large volume, extra cloth. 
 
 "A book extraordinary for its learning and impartiality, and for its just and liberal views of the 
 times it describes. The best compliment that can be paid to Mr. Ranke, is, that each side has 
 accused him of partiality to its opponent; the German Protestants complaining- that Ids work is 
 written in too Catholic a spirit ;— the Catholics declaring, that generally impartial as he is, it is 
 clear to perceive the Protestant tendency of the history." — London Times. 
 
 THE TURKISH £LW& SPANISH EMPIRES, 
 
 IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY AND BEGINNING OF THE SEVEN TEEN TH, 
 BY PROFESSOR LEOPOLD RANKE. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE LAST EDITION OF THE GERMAN, BY WALTER K. KELLY, ESQ. 
 
 Complete in one part, paper, price 75 cents. 
 This work was published by the author in connexion with the " History of the Popes," under 
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 be found in it. ^^^.„^^~~~ 
 
 HISTORY OF THE JtEFORTA.A.TXOXr XKT GERMAN'S", 
 
 BY PROFESSOR LEOPOLD RANKE. 
 FARTS FIRST, SECOND AND THIRD NOV/ READY. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE SECOND EDITION, BY SARAH AUSTIN. 
 
 To be completed in Five parts, each part containing one volume of the London edition. 
 " Few modern writers possess such qualifications for doing justice to so great a subject as Leo 
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 romance of the Reformation selects evidence to support preconceived theory. Ranke never forgets 
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 STUDIES OF THE LIFE OF WOMAN. 
 
 FROM THE FRENCH OF MADAME NECKER DE SAUSSURE. 
 In one neat 12mo. volume, fancy paper. Price 75 cents. 
 
 THE EDUCATION OF MOTHERS; OR, CIVILIZATION 0*F 
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 la one 12mo. volume, paper, price 75 cents; or in extra cloth 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATION 3. 
 
 POPULAR SCIENCE. 
 
 PHILOSOPHY IN SPORT, MADE SCIENCE IN EARNEST, 
 
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 CHEMISTRY OF T HTTFuTiiT^O N S , 
 
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 GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY, 
 
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 new Aii^wilTri^^ 
 
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 MEDICAL BOTJLNTT, 
 
 OR A DESCRIPTION OF ALL THE MORE IMPORTANT PLANTS USED IN MEDICINE 
 
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 In one large octavo volume. With about three hundred and fifty Illustrations on Wood. 
 
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 CONSTITUTING ELEMENTS OF HYGIENE. 
 
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 REMARKS ON THE INFLUENCE OF MENTAL EXCITEMENT, 
 
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 BUCKLAND'S GEOLOGY, 2 vols., with numerous plates and maps. 
 
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 BY OLIVER EVANS. 
 
 THE ELEVENTH EDITION, 
 WITH ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS, BY THE PROFESSOR OF MECHA- 
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 This is a practical work, and has had a very extended sale. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 JOHNSON AND LANDRETH ON FRUIT, KITCHEN, 
 AND FLOW ER GA RDENING. 
 
 A DICTIONARY OF MODERN GARDENING, 
 
 BY GEORGE WILLIAM JOHNSON, ESQ. 
 Author of the " Principles of Practical Gardening," " The Gardener's Almanac," <kc 
 
 WITH ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY WOOD-COTS. 
 
 EDITED, WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS, BY DAVID LANDRETH, OF PHILADELPHIA. 
 
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 This edition has been greatly altered from the original. Many articles of little interest to Ameri- 
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 adapted to our climate. Still, the editor admits that he has only followed in the path so admirably 
 marked out by Mr. Johnson, to whom the chief merit of the work belongs. It has been an object 
 with the editor and publishers to increase its popular character, thereby adapting it to the larger 
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 a judicious selection of those varieties of fruits which experience has shown to be well suited to the 
 United States. — Silliman's Journal. 
 
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 counsellor. It contains one hundred and eighty wood-cut illustrations, which give a distinct idea 
 of the fruits and garden-arrangements they are intended to represent. 
 
 " Johnson's Dictionary of Gardening, edited by Landreth, is handsomely printed, well-bound, and 
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 THE COMPLETE FLORIST. 
 
 A XtLA.NTJA.lM OF GA&DENZNG, 
 
 CONTAINING PRACTICAL INSTRUCTION FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE 
 
 PLANTS, AND FOR THE CULTIVATION OF THE SHRUBBERY— THE FLOWER 
 
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 AND TREES MOST WORTHY OF CULTURE IN EACH 
 
 DEPARTMENT. 
 
 "WITH ADDITIONS AND AMENDMENTS, 
 
 ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 In one small volume. Price only Twenty-five Cents. 
 
 THE COMPLETE KITC HEN A ND FRUIT GARDENER. 
 
 A SELECT MANUAL OF KITCHEN GARDENING, 
 
 AND THE CULTURE OF FRUITS, 
 
 CONTAINING FAMILIAR DIRECTIONS FOR THE MOST APPROVED PRACTICE LN EACH 
 
 DEPARTMENT, DESCRIPTIONS OF MANY VALUABLE FRUITS, AND A 
 
 CALENDAR OF WORK TO BE PERFORMED EACH 
 
 MONTH IN THE YEAR. 
 
 THE WHOLE ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 In one small volume, paper. Price only Twenty-five Cents. 
 
 LANDRETHPS RURAL REGISTER AND ALJVIANAC, FOR 1848, 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
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 A FEW COPIES OF THE REGISTER FOR 1847, 
 
 WITH OVER ONE HUNDRED WOOD-CUTS. 
 
 This work has 150 large 12mo. pages, double columns. Though published annually, and contain- 
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LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 LAW BOOKS. 
 HILLIARD ON REAL ESTATE. 
 
 NOW READY. 
 
 THE AMERICAN LAW OF BEAX. PROPERTY. 
 
 SECOND EDITION, REVISED, CORRECTED, AND ENLARGED 
 
 BY FRANCIS HILLIARD, 
 
 COUNSELLOR AT LAW. 
 
 In two large octavo volumes, beautifully printed, and bound in best law sheep. 
 
 This book is designed as a substitute for Cruise's Digest, occupying the 
 &ame ground in American law which that work has long covered in the 
 English law. It embraces all that portion of the English Law of Real 
 Estate which has any applicability in this country ; and at the same time it 
 embodies the statutory provisions and adjudged cases of all the States upon 
 the same subject ; thereby constituting a complete elementary treatise for 
 American students and practitioners. The plan of the work is such as to 
 render it equally valuable in all the States, embracing, as it does, the pecu- 
 liar modifications of the law alike in Massachusetts and Missouri, New 
 York and Mississippi. In this edition, the statutes and decisions subse- 
 quent to the former one, which are very numerous, have all been incorpo- 
 rated, thus making it one-third larger than the original work, and bringing 
 the view of the law upon the subject treated quite down to the present time. 
 The book is recommended in the highest terms by distinguished jurists of 
 different States, as will be seen by the subjoined extracts. 
 
 " The work before us supplies this deficiency in a highly satisfactory manner. It is beyond all 
 question the best work of the kind that we now have, and although we doubt whether this or any 
 other work will be likely to supplant Cruise's Digest, we do not hesitate to say, that of the two, 
 this is the more valuable to the American lawyer. We congratulate the author upon the success- 
 ful accomplishment of the arduous task he undertook, in reducing the vast body of the American 
 Law of Real Property to ' portable size,' and we do not doubt that his labours will be duly appre- 
 ciated by the profession."— Law Reporter, Aug., 1846. 
 
 Judge Story says :— "I think the work a very valuable addition to our present stock of juridical 
 literature. It embraces all that part of Mr. Cruise's Digest winch is most useful to American law- 
 yers. Rut its higher value is, that it presents in a concise, but clear and exact form, the substance 
 of American Law on the same subject. 1 know no work that we possess, wfiose practical utility is 
 likely to be so extensively felt." " The wonder is, that the author has been able to bring so greU a 
 mass into so condensed a text, at once comprehensive and lucid." 
 
 Chancellor Kent says of the work (Commentaries, vol. ii., p. 635, note, 5th edition) :— " It is a work 
 of great labour and intrinsic value." 
 
 Hon. Rufus Choate savs:— "Mr. Milliard's work has been for three or four years in use, and 1 
 think that Mr. Justice Story and Chancellor Kent express the general opinion of the Massachusetts 
 Bar." 
 
 Professor Greenleaf says :— "I had already found the first edition a very convenient book of refe- 
 rence, and do not doubt, from the appearance of the second, that it is greatly improved." 
 
 Professor J. II. Townsend, of Yale College, Pays :— 
 
 " I hove been acquainted for several years with the first edition of Mr. Hilliard's Treatise, and 
 have formed a very favourable opinion of it. 1 have no doubt the second edition will be found even 
 more valuable than the first, and I shall be happy to recommend it as I may h«Y6 opportunity. 1 
 kiurw of no other work on the subject of Real Estate, BO comprehensive ami so weil adapted to the 
 «tate of the law in this country." 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 LAW BOOKS, 
 
 ADDISON ON CONTRACTS, 
 
 A TREATISE OK" THE LAW OP CONTRACTS AND 
 RIGHTS AND LIABILITIES EX CONTRACTU. 
 
 BY C. G. ADDISON, ESQ., 
 
 Of the Inner Temple, Barrister at Law. 
 In one volume, octavo, handsomely bound in law sheep. 
 
 In this treatise upon the most constantly and frequently administered 
 branch of law, the author has collected, arranged and developed in an intel- 
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 and has supported, illustrated or exemplified them by references to nearly 
 four thousand adjudged cases. It comprises the Rights and Liabilities of 
 Seller and Purchaser ; Landlord and Tenant ; Letter and Hirer of Chattels ; 
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 men ; Shipowners ; Shipmasters ; Innkeepers ; Carriers ; Infants ; Luna- 
 tics, &c. 
 
 WHEATON'S INTERNATIONAL LAW. 
 
 ELEMENTS OF INTERNATIONAL LAW. 
 BY HENRY WHEATON, LL. D., 
 
 Minister of the United States at the Court of Russia, &c. 
 
 THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND CORRECTED. 
 
 In one large and heautiful octavo volume of 650 pages, extra cloth, or fine law sheep. 
 
 M Mr. Wheaton's work is indispensable to every diplomatist, statesman and lawyer, and necessary 
 indeed to all public men. To every philosophic and liberal mind, the study must be an attractive 
 and in the hands of our author it is a delightful one.''— North American. 
 
 HILL ON TRUSTEES, 
 
 A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE LAW RELATING TO TRUSTEES, 
 
 THEIR POWERS, DUTIES, PRIVILEGES AND LIABILITIES. 
 
 BY JAMES HILL, ESQ., 
 
 Of the Inner Temple, Barrister at Law. 
 
 EDITED BY FRANCIS J. TROUBAT, 
 
 Of the Philadelphia Bar. 
 
 In one large octavo volume, best law sheep, raised bands. 
 
 " The editor begs leave to iterate the observation made by the author that the work is intended 
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 In one 18mo. volume, paper, price 25 cents. 
 BEING PART 10, OF " SMALL BOOKS ON GREAT SUBJECTS " 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
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 THE EQUITABLE JURISDICTION OF THE COURT OF CHANCERY, 
 
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 ITS RISE, PROGRESS AND FINAL ESTABLISHMENT. 
 
 TO WHICH IS PREFIXED. WITH A VIEW TO THE ELUCIDATION OF THE MAIN SUB. 
 JECT, A CONCISE ACCOUNT OF THE LEADING DOCTRINES OF THE COMMON 
 LAW. AND OF THE COURSE OF PROCEDURE IN THE COURTS OF COM- 
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 TO TRACE THEM TO THEIR SOURCES ; AND IN WHICH 
 THE VARIOUS ALTERATIONS MADE BY THE 
 LEGISLATURE DOWN TO THE PRESENT 
 DAY ARE NOTICED. 
 BY GEORGE SPENCE, ESQ., 
 One of her Majesty's Counsel. 
 IN TWO OCTAVO VOLUMES. 
 Volume I., embracing the Principles, is now ready. Volume II. is rapidly preparing and will 
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 CONTAINING EXPLANATIONS OF SUCH TECHNICAL TERMS AND PHRASES AS OCCUP 
 
 UN THE WORKS OF LEGAL AUTHORS, IN THE PRACTICE OF THE COURTS, 
 
 AND LN THE PARLLAMENTARY PROCEEDINGS OF THE HOUSE OF LORDS 
 
 AND COMMONS, TO WHICH IS ADDED, AN OUTLINE OF AN 
 
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 BIT HENRY JAMES HOLTHOUSE, ESQ, 
 
 Of the Inner Temple, Special Pleader. 
 
 EDITED FROM THE SECOND AND ENLARGED LONDON EDITION, 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS, 
 
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 Of the Pliiladelphia Bar. 
 
 In one large volume, royal 12mo., of about 500 pages, double columns, handsomely 
 
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 being intelligible and well devised definitions of such phrases and technicalities as are peculiar to 
 
 the practice in the Courts of this country. — While, therefore, we recommend it especially to the 
 
 students of law, as a safe guide through the intricacies of their study, it will nevertheless be found 
 
 a valuable acquisition to the library of the practitioner himself.''— A lex. Gazette. 
 
 " This work is intended rather for the general student, than as a substitute for manv abridgments, 
 digests, and dictionaries in use by the professional man. Its object principally is to" impress accu- 
 rately and distinctly upon the mind the meaning of the technical terms of the law. and as such 
 can hardly fail to be generally useful. There is much curious information to be found in it in re- 
 gard to the peculiarities of the ancient Saxon law. The additions of the American edition give 
 increased value to the work, and evince much accuracy and care."— Pennsylvania Law Journal. 
 
 TAYLOR'S MEDI CAL J U5ISFRUDSITCS. 
 A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE. 
 
 BY ALFRED S. TAYLOR, 
 
 Lecturer on Medical Jurisprudence and Chemistry at Guy's Hospital, London. 
 
 With numerous Notes and Additions, and References to American Law, 
 
 BY R. E. GRIFFITH, M.D. 
 
 In one volume, octavo, neat law sheep. 
 
 TAYLOR'S MAWUAL OP TOXICOLOGY. 
 
 IN ONE NEAT OCTAVO VOLUME. 
 
 A HTBW WOKK, NOW READY. 
 
 TRAILL'S 
 
 OUTLINES OF A COURSE OF LECTURES ON MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE. 
 IN ONE SMALL OCTAVO VOLUME. 
 
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 BY EDWARD HYDE EAST, ESQ., 
 
 Of the Inner Temple, Barrister at Law. 
 
 EDITED, WITH NOTES AND REFERENCES, 
 BY G. M. WHARTON", ESQ., 
 
 Of the Philadelpliia Bar. 
 
 In eight large royal octavo volumes, bound in best law sheep, raised bands and double 
 titles. Price, to subscribers, only twenty-five dollars. 
 
 In this edition of East, the sixteen volumes of the former edition have 
 been compressed into eight — two volumes in one throughout — but nothing 
 has been omitted ; the entire work will be found, with the notes of Mr. 
 Wharton added to those of Mr. Day. The great reduction of price, (from 
 $72, the price of the last edition, to $25, the subscription price of this,) 
 together with the improvement in appearance, will, it is trusted, procure for 
 it a ready sale. 
 
 A NEW WORK OH CO URTS-MARTIAL. 
 
 A TREATISE ON AMERICAN MILITARY LAW, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 PRACTICE OF COURTS-MARTIAL, 
 
 WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR THEIR IMPROVEMENT. 
 BY JOHN O'BRIEN, 
 
 LIEUTENANT UNITED STATES ARTILLERY. 
 
 In one octavo volume, extra cloth, or law sheep. 
 
 "This work stands relatively to American Military Law in the same position that Blackstone's 
 Commentaries stand to Common Law." — U. S. Gazette. 
 
 CAMPBELL'S LORD CHANCELLORS. 
 
 LIVES OF THE LORD CHANCELLORS AND KEEPERS OP 
 THE GREAT SEAL OP ENGLAND, 
 
 FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE IV., 
 
 BY JOHN LORD CAMPBELL, A.M., F.R.S.E. 
 
 FIRST SERIES, 
 
 In three neat demy octavo volumes, extra cloth, 
 
 BRINGING THE WORK TO THE TIME OF JAMES II., JUST ISSUED. 
 
 PREPARING, 
 SECOND SERIES, 
 
 In four volumes, to match, 
 CONTAINING FROM JAMES II. TO GEORGE IV. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 YOUATT AND SKINNER'S 
 
 STANDARD WORK ON THE HORSE. 
 
 THE HORSE. 
 
 BY WILLIAM YOUATT. 
 
 A NEW EDITION, WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 TOGETHER WITH A 
 
 GENERAL HISTORY OF THE BOUSE; 
 
 A DISSERTATION ON 
 
 THE AMERICAN TROTTING HORSE; 
 
 HOW TRAINED AND JOCKEYED. 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF HIS REMARKABLE PERFORMANCES; 
 
 AND 
 
 AN ESS-AY ON THE ASS AND THE MULE, 
 BY J. S. SKINNER, 
 
 Assistant Post-Master-General, and Editor of the Turf Register. 
 
 This edition of Youatt's well-known and standard work on the Manage- 
 ment, Diseases, and Treatment of the Horse, has already obtained such a 
 wide circulation throughout the country, that the Publishers need say no- 
 thing to attract to it the attention and confidence of all who keep Horses or 
 are interested in their improvement. 
 
 " In introducing this very neat edition of Youatt's well-known book, on ' The Horse,' to our 
 readers, it is not necessary, even if we had time, to say anything to convince them of its worth ; it 
 has been highly spoken of, by those most capable of appreciating its merits, and its appearance 
 under the patronage of the 'Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge,' with Lord Brougham 
 at its head, affords a full guaranty for its high character. The book is a very valuable one, and we 
 endorse the recommendation of the editor, that every man who owns the ' hair of a horse,' should 
 have it at his elbow, to be consulted like a family physician, 'for mitigating the disorders, and pro- 
 longing the life of the most interesting and useful of all domestic animals.' " — Farmer's Cabinet. 
 
 " This celebrated work has been completely revised, and much of it almost entirely re-written 
 by its able author, who, from being a practical veterinary surgeon, and withal a great lover and 
 excellent judge of the animal, is particularly well qualified to write the history of the noblest of 
 quadrupeds. Messrs. I-ea and Blanchard of Philadelphia have republished the above work, omitting 
 a few of the first pages, and have supplied their place with matter quite as valuable, and perhaps 
 more interesting to the reader in this country ; it being nearly 100 pages of a general history of the 
 horse, a dissertation on the American trotting horse, how trained and jockeyed, an account of his 
 remarkable performances, and an essay on the Ass and Mule, by J. S. Skinner, Esq., Assistant Post- 
 master-General, and late editor of the Turf Register and American Fanner. Mr. Skinner is one 
 of our most pleasing writers, and has been familiar with the subject of the horse from childhood, 
 and we need not add that he has acquitted himself well of the task. He also takes up the import- 
 ant subject, to the American breeder, of the Ass, and the Mule. This he treats at length and con 
 amove. The Philadelphia edition of the Horse is a handsome octavo, with numerous wood-cuts."— 
 American Agriculturist. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 YOUATT ON THE PIG, 
 
 THE PX6; 
 
 A TREATISE ON THE BREEDS, MANAGEMENT, FEEDING, 
 AND MEDICAL TREATMENT OF SWINE, 
 
 WITH DIRECTIONS FOR SALTING PORK, AND CURING BACON AND HAMS. 
 
 BY WILLIAM YOUATT, V.S. 
 
 Author of " The Horse," " The Dog," " Cattle," " Sheep," &c., &c. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS DRAWN FROM LIFE BY WILLIAM HARVEY. 
 
 In one handsome duodecimo volume, extra cloth, or in neat paper cover, price 50 cents. 
 This work, on a subject comparatively neglected, must prove of much use to farmers, especially 
 in this country, where the Pig is an animal of more importance than elsewhere. No work has 
 hitherto appeared treating fully of the various breeds of swine, their diseases and cure, breeding, 
 fattening, &c., and the preparation of bacon, salt pork, hams, <kc, while the name of the author of 
 " The Horse," " The Cattle Doctor," <fcc, is sufficient authority for all he may state. To render it 
 more accessible to those whom it particularly interests, the publishers have prepared copies in 
 neat illustrated paper covers, suitable for transmission by mail ; and which will be sent through 
 the post-office on the receipt of fifty cents, free of postage. 
 
 CLATER AND YOUATT'S CATTLE DOCTOR. 
 
 EVERY MAN HIS OWN CATTLE DOCTOR: 
 
 CONTAINING THE CAUSES, SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT Or ALL 
 
 DISEASES INCIDENT TO OXEN, SHEEP AND SWINE ; 
 
 AND A SKETCH OF THE 
 
 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF NEAT CATTLE. 
 
 BY FRANCIS CLATER. 
 
 EDITED, REVISED AND ALMOST RE-WRITTEN, BT 
 
 WILLIAM YOUATT, AUTHOR OP « THE HORSE." 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS, 
 EMBRACING AN ESSAY ON THE USE OF OXEN AND THE IMPROVEMENT IN THE 
 BREED OF SHEEP, 
 BY J. S. SEINNER. 
 WITH NUMEROUS CUTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 In one 12mo. volume, cloth. 
 " As its title would import, it is a most valuable work, and should be in the hands of every Ame- 
 rican farmer ; and we feel proud in saying, that the value of the work has been greatly enhanced 
 Dy the contributions of Mr. Skinner. Clater and Youatt are names treasured by the farming com- 
 munities of Europe as household-gods ; nor does that of Skinner deserve to be less esteemed in 
 America."— American Farmer. 
 
 CLATER'S FARRIER, 
 
 EVERY MAN HIS OWN FARRIER: 
 
 CONTAINING THE CAUSES, SYMPTOMS, AND MOST APPROVED METHODS OF CURB 
 OF THE DISEASES OF HORSES. 
 
 BT FRANCIS CLATER, 
 
 Author of " Every Man his own Cattle Doctor," 
 
 AND HIS SON, JOHN CLATER. 
 
 FOIST AMERICAN FROM THE TWENTY-EIGHTH LONDON EDITION. 
 
 WITH NOTES AND ADDITIONS, 
 
 BY J. S. SKINNER. 
 
 In one 12mo. volume, cloth. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 HAWKER AND P ORTER ON SHOOTING. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS TO YOUNG SPORTSMEN 
 
 IN ALL THAT RELATES TO GUNS AND SHOOTING. 
 BY LIEUT. COL. P. HAWKER. 
 
 FROM THE ENLARGED AND IMPROVED NINTH LONDON EDITION, 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED THE HUNTING AND SHOOTING OF NORTH AMERICA, WITH 
 
 DESCRIPTIONS OF ANIMALS AND BIRDS, CAREFULLY COLLATED 
 
 FROM AUTHENTIC SOURCES. 
 
 BY W. T. PORTER, ESQ,. 
 
 EDITOR OF THE N. Y. SPIRIT OF THE TIMES. 
 
 In one large octavo volume, rich extra cloth, with numerous Illustrations. 
 
 " Here is a book, a hand-book, or rather a text-book — one that contains the whole routine of the 
 science. It is the Primer, the Lexicon, and the Homer. Everything is here, from the minutest 
 portion of a gun-lock, to a dead Buffalo. The sportsman who reads this book understanding^, may 
 pasa an examination. He will know the science, and may give advice to others. Every sportsman, 
 and sportsmen are plentiful, should own this work. It should be a " vade mecum." He should 
 be examined on its contents, and estimated by his abilities to answer. We have not been without 
 treatises on the art, but hitherto they have not descended into all the minutiae of equipments and 
 qualifications to proceed to the completion. This work supplies deficiencies, and completes the 
 sportsman's library."—^. & Gazette. 
 
 " No man in the country that we wot of is so well calculated as our friend of the ' Spirit' for the 
 task he has undertaken, and the result of his labours has been that he has turned out a work which 
 should be in the hands of every man in the land who owns a double-barrelled gun." — N. 0. Picayune. 
 
 "A volume splendidly printed and bound, and embellished with numerous beautiful engravings, 
 which will doubtless be in great demand. No sportsman, indeed, ought to be without it, while the 
 general reader will find in its pages a fund of curious and useful information." — Richmond Whig. 
 _____________ 
 
 THE soa, 
 BY WILLIAM YOUATT, 
 
 Author of " The Horse," <kc. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS AND BEAUTIFUL ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 EDITED BY E. J. LEWIS, M. D. &c. &c. 
 
 In one beautifully printed volume, crown octavo. 
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 Head of Bloodhound— Ancient Greyhounds— The Thibet Dog— The Dingo, or New Holland Dog - — 
 
 The Danish or Dalmatian Dog — The Hare Indian Dog — The Greyhound — The Grecian Greyhound 
 
 — Blenheims and Cockers— The Water Spaniel — The Poodle — The Alpine Spaniel or Bernardino 
 
 Dog — The Newfoundland Dog — The Esquimaux Dog — The English Sheep Dog — The Scotch Sheep 
 
 Dog — The Beagle — The Harrier — The Foxhound — Plan of Goodwood Kennel— The Southern 
 
 Hound— The Setter— The Pointer— The Bull Dog— The Mastiff— The Terrier— Skeleton of the 
 
 Dog — Teeth of the Dog at seven different ages. 
 
 " Mr. Youatt's work is invaluable to the student of canine history ; it is full of entertaining ani 
 instructive matter for the general reader. To the sportsman it commends itself by the large amount 
 of useful information in reference to his peculiar pursuits which it embodies — information which 
 he cannot find elsewhere in so convenient and accessible a form, and with so reliable an authority 
 to entitle it to his consideration. The modest preface which Dr. Lewis has made to the American 
 edition of this work scarcely does justice to the additional value he has imparted to it; and the 
 publishers are entitled to great credit for the handsome manner in which they have got it up."— 
 North American. 
 
 THE SPORTSMAN'S LIBHAHY, 
 
 OR HUNTS ON HUNTERS, HUNTING, HOUNDS, SHOOTING, GAME, DOGS, GUNS, 
 
 FISHING, COURSING, &c, &c. 
 
 BY JOHN MILLS, ESQ., 
 
 Author of " The Old English Gentleman," &c. 
 
 In one well printed royal duodecimo volume, extra cloth. 
 
 STABLE TALK AND TABLE TALK, 
 
 OR SPECTACLES FOR i'OUNG SPORTSMEN. 
 
 BY HARRY HIEOVER. 
 
 In one very neat duodecimo volume, extra cloth. 
 
 " These lively sketches answer to their title very well. Wherever Nimrod is welcome, there 
 
 should be cordial greeting for Harry Hieover. His book is a very clever one, and contains many 
 
 instructive hints, as well as much light-hearted reading." — Examiner. 
 
 THE DOgTa^iTtHE SPORTSMAN, 
 
 EMBRACING THE USES. BREEDING, TRAINING, DISEASES, ETC., OF DOGS. AND AN 
 
 ACCOUNT OF TUP DIFFERENT KINDS OF GAME, WITH THEIR HABITS. 
 
 Also, Hints to Shooters, with various useful Recipes, &c«, «fcc« 
 
 BY J. S. SKINNER. 
 
 With Plates In one very neat 12mo volume, fitra cloth 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 FRANCATELLPS MO DERN FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 THE MODERN COOK, 
 
 A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CULINARY ART, IN ALL ITS BRANCHES, ADAPTED AS 
 
 WELL FOR THE LARGEST ESTABLISHMENTS AS FOR THE USE 
 
 OF PRIVATE FAMILIES. 
 
 BY CHARLES ELME FRANCATELLI, 
 
 Pupil of the celebrated Careme, and late Maitre D'Hotel and Chief Cook to her Majesty the Queen. 
 In one large octavo volume, extra cloth, with numerous illustrations. 
 
 " It appears to be the book of books on cookery, being a most comprehensive treatise on that art 
 preservative and conservative. The work comprises, in one large and elegant octavo volume, 1447 
 recipes for cooking dishes and desserts, with numerous illustrations ; also bills of fare and direc- 
 tions for dinners for every month in the year, for companies of six persons to twenty-eight. — Nat. 
 Intelligencer. 
 
 " The ladies who read our Magazine, will thank us for calling attention to this great work on the 
 noble science of cooking, in wliich everybody, who has any taste, feels a deep and abiding interest. 
 Francatelli is the Plato, the Shakspcare, or the Napoleon of liis department ; or perhaps the La 
 Place, for his performance bears the same relation to ordinary cook books that the Mecanique 
 Celeste does to Daboll's Arithmetic. It is a large octavo, profusely illustrated, and contains every- 
 thing on the philosophy of making dinners, suppers, etc., that is worth knowing. — Graluim's Magazine. 
 
 MODERN COOKSRV IN" ALL XTS BRANCHES, 
 
 REDUCED TO A SYSTEM OF EASY PRACTICE. FOR THE USE OF PRIVATE FAMILIES. 
 
 IN A SERIES OF PRACTICAL RECEIPTS, ALL OF WHICH ARE GIVEN 
 
 WITH THE MOST MINUTE EXACTNESS. 
 
 BY ELIZA ACTON. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS WOOD-CUT ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED, A TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 THE WHOLE REVISED AND PREPARED FOR AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPERS. 
 
 BY MRS. SARAH J. HALE. 
 From the Second London Edition. In one large 12mo. volume. 
 " Miss Eliza Acton may congratulate herself on having composed a work of great utility, and one 
 that is speedily rinding its way to every ' dresser' in the kingdom. Her Cookery-book is unques- 
 tionably the most valuable compendium of the art that has yet been published. It strongly incul- 
 cates economical principles, and points out how good tilings may be concocted without that reck- 
 less extravagance which good cooks have been wont to imagine the best evidence they can give of 
 skill in their profession." — London Morning Post. 
 
 THE COMPLETE COOK, 
 
 PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING AND HOUSEKEEPING, 
 
 "WITH UPWARDS OF SEVEN HUNDRED RECEIPTS, 
 
 Consisting of Directions for the Choice of Meat and Poultry, Preparations for Cooking; Making of 
 
 Broths and Soups ; Boiling, Roasting, Baking and Frying of Meats, Fish, &c. ; Seasonings, 
 1 ' %ss, Cooking Vegetables ; Preparing Salads ; Clarifying; Making of " 
 Puddings, Gruels, Gravies, Garnishes, &c, &c., and with general 
 
 Directions for making Wines. 
 WITH ADDITIONS AND ALTERATIONS. 
 
 BY J. M. SANDERSON, 
 
 OF THE FRAN RUN HOUSE. 
 
 In one small volume, paper. Price only Twenty-five Cents. 
 
 THE CQMPLETflCONF^^ BAKER. 
 
 PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 
 
 FOR MAKING CONFECTIONARY AND PASTRY, AND FOR BAKING. 
 
 ■WITH UPWARDS OF FIVE HUNDRED RECEIPTS, 
 
 Consisting of Directions for making all sorts of Preserves, Sujrar Boiling, Comfits, Lozenges, 
 
 Ornamental Cakes, Ices, Liqueurs, Waters. Gum Paste Ornaments, Syrups, Jellies, 
 
 Marmalades, Compotes. Bread Baking, Artificial Yeasts, Fancy 
 
 Biscuits, Cakes, Rolls, Muffins, Tarts, Pies, &c, &c. 
 
 WITH ADDITIONS AND ALTERATIONS. 
 
 BY PARKINSON, 
 
 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONER, CHESTNUT STREET. 
 
 In one small volume, papei. Trice only Twenty -five CenU. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 SMALL BOOKS ON GREAT SUBJECTS. 
 
 A SERIES OP WORKS 
 
 WHICH DESERVE THE ATTENTION OF THE PUBLIC, FROM THE VARIETY AND 
 
 IMPORTANCE OF THEIR SUBJECTS, AND THE CONCISENESS AND 
 
 STRENGTH WITH WHICH THEY ARE WRITTEN. 
 
 They form a neat 18mo. series, in paper, or strongly done up in three neat volumes, extra cloth. 
 
 THERE ARE ALREADY PUBLISHED, 
 No. 1.— PHILOSOPHICAL THEORIES AND PHILOSOPHICAL EXPERIENCE. 
 
 2.— ON THE CONNEXION BETWEEN PHYSIOLOGY AND INTELLECTUAL SCIENCE. 
 3.— ON MAN'S POWER OVER HIMSELF, TO PREVENT OR CONTROL LNSAN1TY. 
 4.— AN INTRODUCTION TO PRACTICAL ORGANIC CHEMISTRY, WITH REFER- 
 ENCES TO THE W T ORKS OF DAVY, BRANDE, LIEBIG, &c. 
 5.— A BRIEF VIEW OF GREEK PHILOSOPHY UP TO THE AGE OF PERICLES. 
 6.— GREEK PHILOSOPHY FROM THE AGE OF SOCRATES TO THE COMING OF 
 
 CHRIST. 
 7.— CHRISTIAN DOCTRINE AND PRACTICE IN THE SECOND CENTURY. 
 8.— AN EXPOSITION OF VULGAR AND COMMON ERRORS, ADAPTED TO THE YEAR 
 
 OF GRACE MDCCCXLV. 
 9.— AN INTRODUCTION TO VEGETABLE PHYSIOLOGY, WITH REFERENCES TO 
 
 THE WORKS OF DE CANDOLLE, LINDLEY, &c. 
 10.— ON THE PRINCIPLES OF CRIMINAL LAW. 
 11.— CHRISTIAN SECTS LN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 12.— THE GENERAL PRINCDPLES OF GRAMMAR. 
 " We are glad to find that Messrs. Lea & Blanchard are reprinting, for a quarter of their original 
 price, this admirable series of little books, which have justly attracted so much attention in Great 
 Britain."— Graham's Magazine. 
 
 "The writers of these thoughtful treatises are not labourers for hire ; they are men who have 
 stood apart from the throng, and marked the movements of the crowd, the tendencies of society, 
 its evils and its errors, and, meditating upon them, have given their thoughts to the thoughtful." — 
 London Critic. 
 
 "A series of little volumes, whose worth is not at all to be estimated by their size or price. They 
 are written in England by scholars of eminent ability, whose design is to call the attention of the 
 public to various important topics, in a novel and accessible mode of publication." — IV. Y. Morning 
 Newt. 
 
 MACKINTOSH'S DISSERTATION ON THE PROGRESS 
 OF ETHICAL PHILOSOPHY, 
 
 WITH A PREFACE BY 
 
 THE REV. WILLIAM WHEWELL, M. A. 
 
 In one neat 8vo. vol., extra cloth. 
 
 OVERLAND JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 DURING THE YEARS 1841 AND 1842, 
 BY SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, 
 
 GO VERNOR-LN -CHIEF OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S TERRITORIES. 
 
 In one very neat crown octavo volume, rich extra crimson cloth, or in two 
 parts, paper, price 75 cents each. 
 
 "A more valuable or instructive work, or one more full of perilous adventure and heroic enter 
 prise, we have never met with."— John Bull. 
 
 " It abounds with details of the deepest interest, possesses all the charms of an exciting romance 
 and fnmisheB an immense mass of valuable information."— Inquirer. 
 
LEA AND ELANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 UNITED STATES EXPLOR ING EXPEDITION. 
 
 THE NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 UNITED STATES EXPLORING EXPEDITION, 
 
 DURING THE YEARS 1838, '39, '40, 41, AND '42. 
 BY CHARLES WILKES, ESQ., U. S.N. 
 
 COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. ETC. 
 
 PRICE TWENTY-FIVE DOLLARS. 
 A New Edition, in Five Medium Octavo Volumes, neat Extra Cloth, particularly done 
 up with reference to strength and continued use: containing Twenty Six Hun- 
 dred Pages of Letter-press. Illustrated with Maps, and about Three 
 
 Hundred Splendid Engravings on Wood. 
 PRICE ONLY TWO DOLLARS A VOLUME. 
 Though offered at a price so low, this is the complete work, containing; all the letter-press of the 
 edition printed for Congress, with some improvements suggested m the course of passing- the work 
 again through the press. AU of the wood-cut illustrations are retained, and nearly all the maps ; 
 the large steel plates of the quarto edition being omitted, and neat wood-cuts substituted for forty- 
 seven steel vignettes. It is printed on Jme paper, with large type, bound in veiy neat extra cloth, 
 and forms a beautiful work, with its very numerous and appropriate embellishments. 
 
 The attention of persons forming libraries is especially directed to this work, as presenting the 
 novel and valuable matter accumulated by the Expedition in a cheap, convenient, and readable form. 
 SCHOOL and other PUBLIC LIBRARIES should not be without it, as embodying the results of 
 the First Scientific Expedition commissioned by our government to explore foreign regions. 
 
 " We have no hesitation in saying that it is destined to stand among the most enduring monu- 
 ments of our national literature. Its contributions not only to every department of science, but 
 every department of history, are immense ; and there is not an intelligent man in the community- 
 no matter what may be his taste, or his occupation, but will find something here to enlighten, to 
 gratify, and to profit him." — Albany Religious Spectator. 
 
 ANOTHER EDITION. 
 PRICE TWENTY-FIVE DOLLARS. 
 
 IN FIVE MAGNIFICENT IMPERIAL OCTAVO VOLUMES; 
 
 WITH AN ATLAS OF LARGE AND EXTENDED MAPS. 
 BEAUTIFULLY DONE UP IN EXTRA CLOTH. 
 This truly great and National Work is issued in a style of superior magnificence 
 and beauty, containing Sixty-four large and finished Line Engravings, embracing 
 Scenery, Portraits, Manners, Customs, &c, &c. Forty-seven exquisite Steel Vignettes, 
 worked among the letter-press ; about Two Hundred and Fifty finely-executed Wood- 
 cut Illustrations, Fourteen large and small Maps and Charts, and nearly Twenty-six 
 Hundred pages of Letter-press. 
 
 ALSO, A FEW COPIES STILL ON HAND. 
 
 THE EDITION PRINTED FOR CONGRESS, 
 
 IN FIVE VOLUMES, AND AN ATLAS. 
 
 LARGE IMPERIAL QUARTO, STRONG EXTRA CLOTH. 
 
 PRICE SIXTY DOLLARS. 
 
 JUST ISSUED, 
 
 THE ETHNOGRAPHY AND PHILOLOGY OF THE UNITED 
 STATES EXPLORING EXPEDITION, 
 
 UNDER THE COMMAND OF CHARLES WILKES, ESQ., U. S. NAVY. 
 BY HORATIO HALE, 
 
 PHILOLOGIST TO THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 In one large imperial octavo volume of nearly seven hundred pages. With two Maps, printed to 
 match the Congress copies of the " Narrative." 
 
 Price ten dollars, in beautiful extra cloth, done up with great strength. 
 
 »»* This is the only edition printed, and but few are offered for sale. 
 
 The remainder of the scientific works of the Expedition are in a state of rapid progress. The 
 volume on Corals, by J. D. Dana, Esq., with an Atlas of Plates, will be shortly ready, to be fol- 
 lowed by the others. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 DON QUIXOTE-ILLUSTRATED EDITION, 
 
 NEARLY READY. 
 
 DON QUIXOTE DE LA MANCHA, 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE SPANISH OF 
 
 MIGUEL DE CERVANTES SAAVEDRA 
 
 BY CHARLES JARVIS, ESQ. 
 
 CAREFULLY REVISED AND CORRECTED, WITH A MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR AND 
 NOTICE OF HIS WOHKS. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 BY TONY JOHANNOT. 
 fn two beautifully printed volumes, crown octavo, rich extra crimson cloth.- 
 
 The publishers are happy in presenting to the admirers of Don Quixote an edition of that work 
 in some degree worthy of its reputation and popularity. The want of such a one has long been felt 
 in tliis country, and in presenting this, they have only to express their hope that it may meet the 
 numerous demands and inquiries. The translation is that by Jarvis, which is acknowledged supe- 
 rior in both force and fidelity to all others. It has in some few instances been slightly altered to adapt 
 it better to modem readers, or occasionally to suit it to the inimitable designs of Tony Johannot. 
 These latter are admitted to be the only successful pictorial exponents of the wit and humor ot 
 Cervantes, and a choice selection of them have been engraved in the best manner. A copious 
 memoir of the author and his works has been added by the editor. The volumes are printed in 
 arge clear type, on fine paper, and handsomely bound, and the whole is confidently offered as 
 wmny tne approbation of all readers of this imperishable romance. 
 
LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 PICCIOLA. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED EDITION. 
 
 PICCIOLA, THE PRISONER OF FENESTR ELLA; 
 
 OR, CAPTIVITY CAPTIVE. 
 BY X. B. SAINTINE. 
 
 A NEW EDITION, WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 In one elegant duodecimo volume, large type, and fine paper ; price in fancy covers 
 
 50 cents, or in beautiful extra crimson cloth. 
 
 " Perhaps the most beautiful and touching work of fiction ever written, with the exception of 
 Undine."— Atlas. 
 
 " The same publishers have shown their patriotism, common sense, and good taste by putting 
 forth their fourth edition of this work, with a set of very beautiful engraved embellisliments. There 
 never was a book which better deserved the compliment. It is one of greatly superior merit to 
 Paul and Virginia, and we believe it is destined to surpass that popular work of St. Pierre in popu- 
 larity. It is better suited to the advanced ideas of the present age, and possesses peculiar moral 
 charms in which Paul and Virginia is deficient. St. Pierre's work derived its popularity from its 
 bold attack on feudal prejudices; Samtine's strikes deeper, and assails the secret infidelity which 
 is the bane of modern society, in it* stronghold. A thousand editions of Pictiola will not be too 
 many for its merit." — Lady's Book. 
 
 " This is a little gem of its kind— a beautipil conceit, beautifully unfolded and applied. The style 
 and plot of this truly charming story require no criticism ; we will only express the wish that those 
 who rely on works of fiction for their intellectual food, may always find those as pure in language 
 and beautiful in moral as Picciola."— New York Review. 
 
 " The present edition is got up in beautiful style, with illustrations, and reflects credit upon the 
 publishers. We recommend to those of our readers who were not fortunate enough to meet with 
 Picciola some years ago, when it was first translated, and for a season all the rage, to lose no time 
 in procuring it now— and to those who read it then, but do not possess a copy, to embrace the op- 
 portunity of supplying themselves from the present very excellent edition."— Saturday Evening Post. 
 
 " A new edition of this exquisite story has recently been issued by Messrs. Lea &, Blanchard, 
 embellished and illustrated in the most elegant manner. We understand that the work was com- 
 pletely out of print, and a new edition will then be welcomed. It contains a delightful letter from 
 the author, giving a painful msight into the personal history of the characters who figure in the 
 story."— Evening Bulletin. 
 
 " The most charming work we have read for many a day."— Richmond Enquirer. 
 
 LOVER'S EORY O'MORE. 
 
 ROR1T O'MOJIE-A N.ILT20NAI. ^OHiLNCI!, 
 
 BY SAMUEL LOVER. 
 
 A new and cheap edition, with Illustrations by the Author. Price only 25 cents. 
 
 Also, a beautiful edition in royal 12mo., price 50 cents, to match the following. 
 
 "A truly Irish, national, and characteristic story."— London Literary Gazette. 
 
 " Mr. Lover has here produced his best work of fiction, which will survive when half the Irish 
 
 sketches with which the literary world teems are forgotten. The interest we take in the varied 
 
 adventures of Rory is never once suffered to abate. We welcome hiin with high delight, and 
 
 part from him with regret."— London Sun. 
 
 LOVER'S IRISH STORIES. 
 
 LEGENDS AND STORIES OF IRELAND, 
 
 BY SAMUEL LOVER. 
 
 In one very neat 12mo. volume, fine paper, extra cloth or fancy paper, 
 
 With Illustrations by the Author. 
 
 LOVER'S SONGS AND BALLADS, 
 
 INCLUDING THOSE OF THE "IRISH EVENINGS." 
 
 In one neat 12mo. volume, price 25 cents. 
 
 MARSTOl, 
 OR THE MEMOIRS OF A STATESMAN AND SOLDIER, 
 
 BY THE REV. GEORGE CROLY, 
 Author of " Salathiel," " Angel of the World," &c. 
 In one octavo volume, paper, price fifty cents. 
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 PREFACE. 
 
 This illustrated Manual of" Sports, Pastimes, and Recreations," has been prepared with especial 
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 Archery, once the pride of England, is then detailed ; and very properly followed by Instructions 
 in the graceful accomplishment of Fencing, and the manly and enlivening exercise of Riding. 
 
 Angling, the pastime of childhood, boyhood, manhood, and old age, is next described ; and by 
 attention to the instructions here laid down, the lad with a stick and a string may soon become an 
 expert Angler. 
 
 Keeping Animals is a favourite pursuit of boyhood. Accordingly, we have described how to rear 
 the Rabbit, the Squirrel, the Dormouse, the Guinea Pig, the Pigeon, and the Silkworm. A long 
 chapter is adapted to the rearing of Song Birds ; the several varieties of which, and their respective 
 cages, are next described. And here we may hint, that kindness to Animals invariably denotes an 
 excellent disposition ; for, to pet a little creature one hour, and to treat it harshly the next, marks 
 a capricious if not a cruel temper. Humanity is a jewel, which every boy should be proud to wear 
 in his breast. 
 
 We now approach the more sedate amusements— as Draughts and Chess ; two of the noblest 
 exercises of the ingenuity of the human mind. Dominoes and Bagatelle follow. With a know- 
 ledge of these four games, who would pass a dull hour in the dreariest day of winter ; or who 
 would sit idly by the fire % 
 
 Amusements in Arithmetic, harmless Legerdemain, or sleight-of-hand, and Tricks with Cards, 
 will delight many a family circle, when the business of the day is over, and the book is laid aside. 
 
 Although the present volume is a book of amusements, Science has not been excluded from its 
 pages. And why should it be 7 when Science is as entertaining as a fairy tale. The changes we 
 read of in little nursery-books are not more amusing than the changes in Chemistry, Optics", Elec- 
 tricity, Magnetism, &c. By understanding these, you may almost become a little Magician. 
 
 Toy Balloons and Paper Fireworks, (or Fireworks without Fire,) come next. Then follow In- 
 structions for Moaeiling in Card-Board; so that you may huild for yourself a palace or a carriage, 
 and, in short, make for yourself a little paper world. 
 
 Puzzles and Paradoxes. Enigmas and Biddies, and Talking with the Fingers, next make up plenty 
 of exercise for " Guess," and " Guess again." And as you have the " Keys" in your own hand, you 
 may keep your friends in suspense, and make yourself as mysterious as the Sphynx. 
 
 A chapter of Miscellanies— useful and amusing secrets— winds up the volume. 
 
 The " Treasury" contains upwards oi four hundred Engravings ; so that it is not only a collection 
 of " secrets worth knowing," but it is a book of pictures, as full of prints as a Christmas pudding 
 is of plums. 
 
 It maybe as well to mention that the " Treasury" holds many new games that have never 
 before been printed in a book of this kind. The old games have been described afresh. Thus it 
 is, altogether, a new book. 
 
 And now we take leave, wishing you many hours, and days, and weeks of enjoyment over these 
 pages; and we hope that vou may be as happy as this book is brimful of amusement. 
 
LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 SCHMITZ & ZUMPT'S_ CLASSICAL SERIES. 
 
 VOLUME I. 
 
 C. JUL.II CAESARIS 
 
 COMMENTARII DE BELLO GALLICO. 
 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTION, NOTES, AND A GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX IN ENGLISH. 
 
 ALSO, A MAP OF GAUL, AND ILLUSTRATIVE ENGRAVING'S. 
 
 In one handsome l&mo. volume, of 232 pages, extra cloth, price 50 cts. 
 
 VOLUME II. 
 
 PUBLII VIRGILII MARONIS CARMINA. 
 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTION AND NOTES. 
 
 In one handsome ISmo. volume, of 433 pages, extra cloth, price 75 cts. 
 
 VOLUME III. 
 
 C. CRISPI SALLUSTII CATALINA ET JUGURTHA. 
 
 WITH INTRODUCTION, AND NOTES IN ENGLISH. 
 
 ALSO, A MAP OF NUMIDIA AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIVE ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 In one handsome 15ino. volume, of 16S pages, extra cloth, price 50 cts. 
 VOLUME IV.— Now Ready. 
 
 LATIN GRAMMAR. 
 
 BY LEONHARD SCHMITZ, Ph. D., F. R. S. E., 
 
 RECTOR OF THE HIGH SCHOOL, EDINBURGH. 
 
 In one handsome ISmo. volume, of 31S pages, neatly half-bound, price 60 cts. 
 VOLUME V.— Now Ready. 
 
 Q. CURTII RUFI DE GESTIS ALEXANDRI MAGNI. 
 
 LIBRI QUI SUPERSUNT VIII. 
 WITH A MAP, INTRODUCTION, ENGLISH NOTES, &C. 
 
 Iii one handsome ISmo. volume, of 326 pages, price 70 cents. 
 VOLUME VI.— Nearly Ready. 
 
 M. TULLI CICERONIS ORATIONES SELECTS 
 
 WITH INTRODUCTION, ENGLISH NOTES, &C. &C. 
 
 Iii one handsome ISmo. volume. 
 VOLUME VII.— Nearly Ready. 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO THE LATIN GRAMMAR, 
 
 BY LEONARD SCHMITZ, Ph. D., F. R. S. E., &c. 
 
 In one handsome ISmo. volume. 
 
 The neatness, cheapness, and accuracy of this series, together with its 
 skillful adaptation to the wants both of teachers and students, have secured 
 for it the almost universal approbation of those to whom it has been submitted. 
 Prom among the very numerous testimonials which the publishers have re- 
 ceived, they beg to submit the following: — 
 
LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 Schmit* and ZumpVs Classical Series.— Continued. 
 
 From Prof. Roche, Transylvania University, Lexington, Ky., March 31, 1849. 
 Whatever influence my position may give me shall he most cheerfully employed in 
 bringing into general use in the West these very valuable works. I trust that you 
 will prosecute to a close the proposed series, and that the execution of those that re- 
 main to complete a Latin Curriculum may be as neat and in all respects as unex- 
 ceptionable as that of those already published. 
 
 From Prof. John Wilson, Prep. Dep. Dickinson College, Carlisle, Dec. 8, 1848. 
 I have examined the three volumes with considerable care, and can give them my 
 unqualified approbation. The plan is judicious, and the execution worthy of all praise. 
 The notes comprise all that a student needs, and all that lie should have; and their 
 position at the foot of the page is just what it should be. 
 
 From Prof. E. E. Wiley, Emory and Henry College, Va. Nov. 30, 1848. 
 From the cursory examination given them, I must say that I have been highly grati- 
 fied. Such a series as you propose giving to the public is certainly a great desidera- 
 tum. Our classical text-books have heretofore been rendered entirely too expensive, 
 by the costly dresses in which they have appeared, and by the extensive display of 
 notes appended ; many of which, though learned, are of little worth to the student in 
 elucidating the text. It will afford me pleasure to introduce into my department such 
 books of your series as may be in our course. 
 
 From S. II. Taylor, Esq., Andover, Mass., Oct 30, 1848. 
 The notes seem to me very accurate, and are not so numerous as to do for the stu- 
 dent what he ought to do for himself. I can with safety, therefore, recommend it to 
 my pupils. 
 
 From Prof. M. M. Campbell, Principal of the Grammar School, Indiana University , 
 Nov. 6, 184S. 
 I like the plan of your series. I feel sure it will succeed, and thus displace some of 
 the learned lumber of our schools. The notes, short, plain, and apposite, are placed 
 where they ought to be, and furnish the learner just about help enough. 
 
 From Philip Lindsliy, D. D., Pres. of the University of Nashville, Nov. 27, 1848. 
 The classical series, edited by Drs. Schmitz and Zumpt, has already acquired a 
 high and well-merited reputation on both sides of the Atlantic. I have carefully ex- 
 amined your editions of Caesar and Virgil. I think them admirable text-books for 
 schools, and preferable to all others. I shall avail myself of every suitable occasion 
 to recommend them. 
 
 From B. Sanford, Esq , Bridgeioater, Mass., Jan. 17, 1849. 
 I have examined, with considerable care, both the Ceesar and the Virgil, and am 
 much pleased with the plan and execution of the series thus far. I am particularly 
 gratified with the propriety and judgment displayed by the editors in the preparation 
 of the notes ; avoiding, as I think, the prolixity and profuseness of some of our classi- 
 cal works, and, at the same time, the barrenness and deficiency of others ; giving a 
 body of annotations better suited to aid the teacher in imparting a knowledge of the 
 language, than is to be found in any edition heretofore in use. 
 
 From Prof. Sturgess, Hanover College, Indiana, Dec. 30, 1848. 
 The mere name of the editors is a sufficient and most ample guarantee of the accu- 
 racy of the text, the judicious choice of various readings, and the conformity of those 
 adopted to the latest investigations of MSS., and the results of the most enlightened 
 criticism. The notes I have not examined very carefully, except those of the Virgil. 
 They are admirable, extremely condensed, and conveying a great deal of most valu- 
 able criticism in the briefest possible way. They are particularly valuable for their 
 restheiifal remarks, and the frequent references to parallel passages in the same au- 
 thor. The preliminary life is excellent, and of great value to the student. The Sal- 
 lust appears 10 be of the same general character, and the notes to furnish just such 
 help as the diligent student really needs. I think that in bringing out such a course 
 at a cheap rate you are conferring a great boon on the country, and additional honor 
 on your press, already so distinguished for the value of its issues. 
 
LEA & BLANCH A RD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 HERSCHEL'S OUTLINES OF ASTRONOMY.-wVoio Ready, 
 
 OUTLINES 0F~ASTR0N0MY. 
 
 BY SIR JOHN F. W. HERSCHEL, F. R. S., &c. 
 
 In one neat volume, crown octavo, with six plates and numerous wood-cuts. 
 
 With this, we take leave of this remarkable work, which we hold to be, beyond a 
 doubt, the greatest and most remarkable of the works in which the laws of astrono- 
 my and the appearance of the heavens are described to those who are not mathema- 
 ticians nor observers, and recalled to those who are. It is the reward of men who 
 can descend from the advancement of knowledge to care for its diffusion, that their 
 works are essential to all, that they become the manuals of the proficient as well as 
 the text-books of the learner. — Athenirv.m. 
 
 Probably no book ever written upon any science has been found lo embrace with- 
 in so small a compass an entire epitome of everything known within all its various 
 departments, practical, theoretical, and physical.— Examiner. 
 
 A text-book of astronomy, from one of the highest names in the science. — Silliman' [ s 
 Journal. 
 
 BJMBOJV HUJtlBOLBT'S JVBW WOBB.-J\ m otc Ready. 
 
 ASPECTS OF MTURE, 
 
 IN DIFFERENT LANDS AND DIFFERENT CLIMATES. 
 
 "With Scientific Elucidations. 
 
 BY ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT. 
 
 TRANSLATED BY MRS. SABINE. 
 
 In one very neat volume, royal 12mo., extra cloth. 
 
 It is not without diffidence thafTpfesent to the public a series of papers which took 
 their origin in the presence of natural scenes of grandeur or beamy, on the ocean, in 
 the forests of the Orinoco, in the Steppes of Venezuela, and in the mountain wilder- 
 nesses of Peru and Mexico. Detached fragments were writted down on the spot, and 
 at the moment, and afterwards moulded into a whole. The view of nature on an en- 
 larged scale, the display of the concurrent action of various forces or powers, and the 
 renewal of the enjoyment which the immediate prospect of tropical scenery affords 
 to sensitive minds— are the objects which I have proposed lo myself. — Authors 
 Preface. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL RECREATIONS.— Just Issued. 
 
 BY W. J. BKODERIP, Esq., F. R. S. 
 
 In one neat volume of 376 pages, royal 12mo., extra cloth. 
 BOW*JI.lJV*S I>RJ1CTICJIZ, CHJEMISTBlt\— Just Issued. 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO PRACTICAL CHEMISTRY. 
 
 INCLUDING ANALYSIS. 
 By JOHN E. BOWMAN, 
 
 Demonstrator of Chemistry. King's College. 
 
 Tn one handsome volume, royal 12mo., of over 300 pages. 
 
 WITH NEARLY ONE HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. 
 
 STEINMETZ'S HISTORY OF THE JESUITS. 
 HISTORY OF THE JESUITS, 
 
 FROM THE FOUNDATION OF THEIR SOCIETY TO ITS SUPPRESSION BY POPE CLEMENT XIV.: 
 
 Their Missions throughout tin World ; their Educational System and Literature ; 
 urith their Revival and Present State. 
 
 BY ANDREW S T E I NM E T Z , 
 
 Author of 'The Novitiate," and -The Jesuit in the Family." 
 
 In two handsome crown Bvo. vols, of ahout four hundred pages each, extra cloth. 
 
LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 KENNEDY'S LIFE OP WIRT. 
 CHEAPER EDITION, NOW READY. 
 
 MEMOIRS OF THE LIFE OF WILLIAM WIRT, 
 
 BY JOHN P. KENNEDY. 
 SECOND EDITION, REVISED. 
 
 In two large and handsome 12mo. volumes, with a Portrait and fac-simile of a 
 letter from John Adams. 
 
 The whole of Mr. Wirt's Papers, Correspondence, Diaries, &c, having been placed 
 in the hands of Mr. Kennedy, to be used in this work, it will be found to contain much 
 that is new and interesting relative to the political history of the times, as well as to 
 the private life of Mr. Wirt. 
 
 One of the most valuable books of the season, and certainly one of the most enter- 
 taining works ever published in this country. Mr. Kennedy is admirably qualified 
 for the preparation of such a work, and has evidently had access to a great variety of 
 useful material. The work is one which should be in the hands of every young man 
 in the country. Its intrinsic interest will secure it a very general popularity.— JV. Y. 
 Courier and Enquirer. 
 
 The genius of the author and the popular character of his subject insure an equally 
 interesting and valuable book, which it would be superfluous in us to commend, in 
 any labored terms, to the attention of our readers. It is an indispensable addition to 
 the libraries of all intelligent Americans. It is got up in the best style, with a like- 
 ness of Mr. Wirt from a portrait by Charles B. King.— Philadelphia North American. 
 
 The fascinating letters of Mr. Wirt, one of the most brilliant and agreeable men of 
 the day, in themselves furnish a rich fund of instruction and enjoyment— .Richmond 
 Inquirer. 
 
 This work has been looked for with much interest by the public, and will not disap- 
 point the high expectations justly based upon the well-known talents of the author, 
 and the abundant materials left by the distinguished orator and jurist, to which he has 
 had free access. — Baltimore American. 
 
 The style is at once vigorous and fascinating, and the interest of the most absorbing 
 character.— Ph iladelphia Inquirer. 
 
 Now Ready.— INGERSOLL'S NEW WORK. 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE SECOTCI* WAR 
 
 BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AND GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 DECLARED BY ACT OF CONGRESS THE 18th OF JUNE, 1312, AND CON- 
 CLUDED BY PEACE THE loth OF FEBRUARY, 1815. 
 
 BY CHARLES J. INGERSOLL. 
 
 EMBRACING THE EVENTS OF 1814. 
 
 In one well-printed 8vo. vol., of 318 pages, double columns, paper covers, price $1 00 
 FRANCE UNDER LOUIS PHILIPPE. 
 
 The History of Ten Years, 1810-1840; or, France under Louis Philippe, 
 
 BY LOUIS BLANC, 
 
 Secretary of the Provisional Government of 1848. 
 
 TRANSLATED BY WALTER H. KELLY. 
 
 In two handsome crown Svo. volumes, extra cloth, or six parts, paper, at fifty cents. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION OF 1789. 
 
 BY LOUIS BLANC, 
 
 Author of-' France under Louis Philippe," &c. 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH. 
 
 In one volume, crown octavo. 
 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY, 
 BERKELEY 
 
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