1 B H H I l Wm- m California. Landlubber's Log ol a voyage ouna me norn, r>emg a journal j Morton MacMichael, III, during a voyage from Philadelphia to San Francisco DC Horn, in the American ship "Pactolus." Illustrated, 12mo., original cloth, ce, 1879. ($10.00). Only a few copies privately printed. _^ ^---' ft 'n l! ) C-K TNW Bancroft A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. BEING A JOURNAL KEPT DURING A FOUR MONTHS' VOYAGE ON AN AMERICAN MERCHANTMAN, BOUND FROM PHILADELPHIA TO SAN FRANCISCO. BY MORTON MAcMICHAEL 30. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 1883. Copyright, 1882, by MORTON MACMlCHAEL ,croh Library INTRODUCTORY IN launching this little volume upon the current of Christmas-tide literature, the author wishes to explain that it was not written originally with an eye to publication, but simply as a long letter for home consumption only. In that form a small edition was printed for private circulation, but without the proof-sheets having been overhauled and sundry errors corrected. The present edi- tion, if it has no other virtue, is at least ship- shape and correct. The only hope the author has of the book floating after it is launched is derived from the fact that " logs," as a rule, do float, espe- cially when they are of light material, and that this log is certainly the reverse of heavy. PHILADELPHIA, 1882. A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. I. AT SEA, July 20. ON the morning of the yth inst, just as early as the coming dawn made seeing possible, the tugboat that had been lying alongside all night showed signs of life, and the newly-arrived crew were routed from the forecastle, where they had retreated to sleep away the effects of their fare- well spree on shore. The silent ship became enlivened with the hoarse shouts of officers and men, and with the rattling of cables hauled in from the dock or being run over to the tug along- side, and ten minutes later left her berth and was heading down the river Delaware. At breakfast- time Philadelphia was far astern, and the anchor had been let go in mid-stream, off the gunpowder- works at Wilmington, Delaware, while from two little sloops alongside we received the final por- tion of our cargo in the shape of several thousand 7 g A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF kegs and canisters of rifle powder, which elevat- ing article was, with an abandon that was far from reassuring to any one of nervous temperament, stowed away under the after-cabin and beneath our very feet. Ninety tons in all were at last safely battened down beneath the hatches, and the cargo made complete, but dusk was upon us, and we rode at anchor until the following morn- ing. Again an early start, and this time with a fair breeze blowing behind us, to which was spread sail after sail as they were dragged from their locker, sent aloft and bent upon the yards. At half-past four o'clock Cape May and Cape Hen- lopen were on either beam, and the pilot slid down a rope's end into the little boat awaiting him, and waved us a God-speed. A moment later the ship, now a cloud of canvas, keeled to the pressure of the fair, fresh breeze and swept out upon the billows of the broad Atlantic. It was from this moment of passing from the bay into the ocean that we will compute the length of our voyage, and will consider it ended when we pass the portals of the Golden Gate, the famous en- trance to the harbor of San Francisco. In very nearly all the accounts that I have ever read of people sailing away from their homes for foreign lands, the characters thus outward-bound, when leaving port, gaze long and earnestly at the rapidly receding shore, while their hearts swell HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. 9 and throb with a nameless pain as the memories which cluster about the land they are leaving come rushing through their minds. How much pleasanter it would have been for me could I but have followed their example ; then might I have written the regulation remarks about the feeling of sadness that stole over me, as while thinking of family and friends, or of the many happy mem- ories of home, the white-winged ship swiftly left the land. Then could I have described how it grew dimmer with each fleeting moment, until at last naught but a faint, misty, cloudlike streak hung on the distant horizon, and as I gazed again, that f. m. c. s., like unto the f. m. c. s.'s of the book-voy- agers, would have faded from my sight, while a single tear would have glistened for a moment on my cheek, and then fallen noiselessly upon the deck. All this might I have written had not that saline old nautical deity, Father Neptune, promptly (and with a viciousness which leads me to believe the old gentleman has had a dearth of victims lately) demanded his dues. I had expected an attack, but neither so sudden nor so fierce a one ; nor did I anticipate so complete a defeat. In short, fifteen minutes after the ship left the Capes I was hopelessly, helplessly sea-sick. A Japanese proverb says "a sea-voyage is an inch of hell," and for the greater part of six or seven days my opinion on the subject of ocean travel tallied exactly with JO A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF that of the slant-eyed philosopher who wrote those words. I took no notice of anything, didn't want to see or eat anything, couldn't have eaten any- thing if I had wanted to, and was altogether as thoroughly wretched as possible. I have no notes to enter in my log for that week of internal strife ; I diligently pursued the ignis-fatuus, relief, by all the equally useless methods, for some unknown reason recommended, and carefully compounded and swallowed a dozen or fifteen " remedies for sea-sickness," which disgraced the pages of the captain's " family medicine book," by their pres- ence among respectable and estimable prescrip- tions. Time, however, accomplished what the delusive medicines and mock reliefs could not, and on the morning of the i5th I turned out to find the sea-sickness gone and my vanished appe- tite returned. The attack pulled me down in weight, and has left me rather weak, but now that I'm ship-shape again, I'll recover the lost ground rapidly with the help of those capital tonics, fresh air, plain food, plenty of exercise, and early hours. We have crossed the Gulf Stream and are now in mid-Atlantic, steering south, and we have also worked our way over the first of the three calm belts that must be crossed between the North At- lantic and Cape Horn. It was tedious work, but on the whole we did very well, and were lucky enough not to get really stuck. These exasperat- HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. n ing barriers to quick passages are called the Dol- drums by sailors, and the second lies a little north of the Equator, while number three is down at the Tropic of Capricorn. Corresponding- calm belts obstruct the navigation of the Pacific on similar parallels of latitude, so that five more of them must be passed over before we reach Cali- fornia. The region of calms we recently were in is known as the Horse Latitudes, and received its name from the fact that before the days of steamers, when the West Indies were supplied with horses from the United States and England, o the vessels which carried them would often, when becalmed in those latitudes, run short of water, so that a great part of their living freight had to be thrown overboard in order to save the lives of a few, and in this way thousands of horses were lost. We have also sailed through several of the enormous beds of sea-weed which form the cele- brated Sargasso Sea, and the effect was very curious. The weed is very tough, and closely knit into- huge patches, which float about, just submerged, and is covered with bunches of little round berries the size of a marrowfat pea. Of course I have to chronicle, too, my first sight of those queer little maritime wanderers, Mother Gary's chickens. Never the traveller yet who didn't mention them, and indeed it is a striking sight, far out on the wind-swept ocean, to see 12 A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF these tiny birds hovering closely over the surface of the sea, rising as the waves rise, and sinking again as the watery hillock subsides. They ap- pear as tireless as steam-engines, and in their curious wavering flight bear a closer resemblance to bats than to birds. On Thursday a hungry shark mistook the revolving brass fan which is attached to the end of our patent log-line for a fish, and swallowed it. The captain says this is not an infrequent occurrence, although it is not very often that the fans are lost, as the sharks, not finding the article as toothsome as they antici- pated, promptly let go. We have several extra fans for just this very reason, and number two is now spinning away astern. At 4 A.M. yesterday morning I was awakened by hearing the mate call down the companion-way to the captain that there was a boat coming alongside. I hurried on some clothes and went on deck, where it was quite dark ; but after a minute or so I could make out a long white whale-boat, with seven or eight men in her, pulling for our lee quarter. It was very calm, but we had been hove to and were waiting for them. In a few moments they were alongside, and as we could see no vessels anywhere around us, I bad mad : up my mind that it was a case of shipwrecked mariners afloat in an open boat, and was prepared to see several haggard and starving men drag themselves over the rail, when my ro- HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. ^ mancing was squelched by hearing a gruff voice sing out from the heaving boat below, " I say there on board the ship, can you let's have some late papers ?" Scene, mid-ocean on a pitch-dark morning, a great ship slowly shoving ahead into the darkness ; the lookout discovers a row-boat full of men pulling like mad for the ship ; ship hove to, and her crew crowding the bulwarks to get a glimpse at the supposed rescued waifs, are at the moment of their greatest suspense for the welfare of the poor creatures, whom Providence has directed the ship should save, requested for some late newspapers. The mysterious strangers were invited on board, and two or three of them scrambled up, one of them an officer, who, as soon as he reached the deck, began bellowing out orders to the men below, and then announced himself as second mate of the brig " D. A. Small," of Provincetown, Massachusetts, three months out on a whaling cruise, and, as he added, " devil a quart of oil." After a short call of fifteen minutes or so the strangers called their boat alongside and bid us good-by, richer by a bundle of New York and Philadelphia papers than when they came. The brig, which we could now see in the breaking daylight, lay some three miles astern, so that our friends had a pretty hard pull for their news, for rowing a heavy whale-boat in mid-ocean is a vastly different description of sport than the same dis- 14 A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF tance pulled in an ordinary row-boat on a river or lake. Just after sunrise we made out a large ship on the port bow, evidently bound for Europe, so we unloosened the signal halliards, spread out the flags, and soon were near enough for her to see that we had a message for her to carry to port for us. When she was fairly abeam, about two miles to windward, and making a superb picture as the sun shone on her broad white sails, we ran our bunting aloft to the signal-gaff, and gave her our name and nation ; then followed " from Philadel- phia for San Francisco," "eleven days out," our longitude, and "all well." In return we got, " American ship Queenstown," " Rangoon for the channel," "will report you wish you a pleasant voyage." Then both ships dipped the American colors three times and the flags were put away. Following the rule that it never rains but it pours, we spoke two other vessels before sunset, one a French bark, belonging to a company that owns ninety-nine vessels, which number it never allows to increase or diminish, and which instead of naming the craft comprising this large fleet, num- ber them instead. The one we spoke carried the figures 43 prominently displayed in black, on her mainsail, and the other vessels of the company carry their numbers in the same conspicuous posi- tion. She was seventy-two days out from Valpa- raiso, Chili, and was bound for Falmouth, England. HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. l $ The third vessel spoken was also a bark, but this time a Britisher, and was making for London on a voyage from Bombay. Like the " Queenstown," both barks promised to report us. I intend to write this log but once a week, and am going to give the weather, and other regular matters of record at sea, a special page, where they can be seen in tabulated form. Sunday will be the day for this log-writing, and after the tables above mentioned, and the incidents of the week are noted down, I shall try and give you some idea of what life on a merchantman is like, and how Jack fares, and what he does on a voyage round the stormy cape. A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF Table giving daily Latitude, Longitude, Miles sailed, Temperature at noon, and Remarks on the Weather, etc., from July 9 to July 27 inclusive. July 9. Lat. 38 21' N. Ship's run 134 miles.* Lon. 72 18' W. Temp, at noon, 73. Weather fine and cool. July 10. Lat. 38 06' N. Run 140 miles. Lon. 69 20' W. Temp, at noon, 78. Weather fine. July II. Lat. 37 53' N. Run 134 miles. Lon. 65 45' W. Temp, at noon, 81. Clear and cool all day. Squally during the night. July 12. Lat. 37 29' N. Run 205 miles. Lon. 61 16' W. Temp, at noon, 78. Weather very fine. July 13. Lat. 36 49 r N. Run 226 miles. Lon. 56 36' W. Temp, at noon, 79. Weather fine, except occasional short and light squalls during morning. Sea rough. July 14. Lat. 36 31 ' N. Run 222 miles. Lon. 51 45' W. Temp, at noon, 79. Weather fine. July 15. Lat. 35 36' N. Run 226 miles. Lon. 47 09' W. Temp, at noon, 80. Weather fine. Sea running high. July 1 6. Lat. 33 59' N. Run 173 miles. Lon. 44 21' W. Temp, at noon, 80. Fine weather continues. Sea rough. July 17. Lat. 32 34 X N. Run 138 miles. Lon. 42 29' W. Temp, at noon, 82. Weather fine. Light airs. * Nautical miles. HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. July 1 8. Lat. 31 50' N. Run 52 miles. Lon. 41 42' W. Temp, at noon, 82. Weather fine and warm. Light airs and calms. July 19. Lat. 30 58' N. Run 56 miles. Lon. 41 47' W. Temp, at noon, 88. Weather fine and warm. Light airs all A.M. Got the N.E. trade winds about 3 P.M. July 20. Lat. 28 ii x N. Run 174 miles. Lon. 41 24' W. Temp, at noon, 82. Fine weather all day. Squally at night. July 21. Lat. 24 38' N. Run 224 miles. Lon. 40 22 X W. Temp, at noon, 83. Same weather as yesterday. Sea very high and rough. July 22. Lat. 21 13' N. Run 218 miles. Lon. 39 37' W. Temp, at noon, 82. Squalls at short intervals during morning, and again late at night. July 23. Lat. 19 oi x N. Run 133 miles. Lon. 39 27' W. Temp, at noon, 82. Weather very fine. July 24. Lat. 1 6 38' N. Run 1 80 miles. Lon. 37 40' W. Temp, at noon, 82. Weather still fine. July 25. Lat. 14 n 7 N. Run 160 miles. Lon. 36 20' W. Temp, at noon, 82. Weather fine. Several dry squalls during the day. Wind died away towards evening. July 26. Lat. 13 ii'N. Run 70 miles. Lon. 35 59' W. Temp, at noon, 84. Weather beautiful. Light air and calms. July 27. Lat. 11 54' N. Run 78 miles. Lon. 35 36' W. Temp, at noon, 85. Rain-squalls before sunrise. Clear and warm all day. Continued calms. Lost N.E. trade winds to-day. A LANDLUBBERS LOG UF II. AT SEA, July 27. THE above table brings me up to date as far as our daily records of position, distance sailed, and weather reports are concerned, and a glance at it will show how uniformly fine the weather has been since we left Philadelphia, the few squalls we have experienced coming as a rule at night, and although the sea has been rough on several occasions, the ship has ridden like a cork and the decks been as dry as a bone. I might say, in explanation of the tables, that a nautical day is from meridian to me- ridian, that is to say, from noon to noon, and when, as under to-day's heading, I say we ran seventy- eight miles, I mean that distance was covered from twelve o'clock yesterday to twelve o'clock to-day. July 23. In the evening a flying-fish that struck one of the lower sails fell on deck, and being the first one I have had a close view of, was a curiosity ; it measured about nine inches in length, and was shaped like a chub. The next morning I found it nicely broiled on my plate at breakfast, and can recommend the species as both delicate and well flavored. Flying-fish, the mate tells me, are about the only deep-water fish that have scales, nearly all others met at sea, from the dolphins to the whales, wearing a skin. Passed two small HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. l g vessels bound north ; shortly after dark they passed across the face of the newly arisen moon, and formed for the moment a very pretty sil- houette. Later, made out the celebrated constel- lation of the Southern Cross, on the southern horizon ; but it will be some time before we see it in its most beautiful phase, that is, shining with great brilliancy directly above us. July 25. During the morning passed through a large fleet of nautilus, those renowned little crea- tures of the jelly-fish species, that spread their tiny film-like sails in delicate shades of pink and blue, and cruise about over the waves, sometimes alone or in little groups, and again, as I first saw them, in vast numbers. The sunlight playing on the thousands of rising and falling sails made a very pretty picture. We were slopping along at a lazy pace when we overtook the fleet, which was running before a gentle breeze just strong enough to suit the sailing qualities of its tiny craft, and after scoring several misses in my attempts to catch one, I succeeded at last in slipping a bucket directly beneath a beauty and hauled it aboard without disturbing it in the slightest degree. Placing the bucket on deck, I went forward to call the carpenter and show him my prize. As we started aft we saw one of the ship's cats approach the bucket and proceed to investigate the nau- tilus, doubtless attracted by its fishy odor, and 2Q A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF before we could interfere puss had captured the prize, and was scampering away with it. Another name common to the nautilus is that of Portu- guese men-of-war, and this specimen promptly gave evidence of its warlike nature by stinging the cat before she had carried it across the deck, pussy dropping it with a terrified yowl, and van- ishing into her sanctum, the galley, as though a dozen dogs were at her heels. During the rest of the day she sat in a corner, uttering plaintive meyows, and alternately rubbing her cheeks on the deck or scraping her swollen tongue with one of her front paws. July 26. The ship becalmed. Took a plunge- bath overboard, with a light line around me, the captain made such a fuss about sharks, however, that I soon came on deck. This bringing me up to date, I will close the log for this week with an account of the ship herself, and from week to week hereafter tell you of her officers and crew, and how we pass the time. The " Pactolus" is a Maine-built ship, and was launched in the winter of 1864; she was built by her present owners, a New York firm, whose house-flags flutter at the peaks of some of the finest clippers of our mercantile marine. Her measurements are as follows : length one him- o dred and ninety-eight feet, beam thirty-eight feet six inches, and she registers twelve hundred and HIS VOYAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. 2 I five tons. She is full ship-rigged, carries very heavy spars, and when under full sail spreads fifteen thousand square feet of canvas. Her model is graceful, her bows as sharp and sym- metrical as those of a yacht, and she rides the waves as easily and buoyantly as a duck a coun- try pond. To save myself the trouble of describ- ing her various parts, I offer the accompanying sketches of the arrangement of her deck and cabin, which I hope will give you a good idea of the ship's various departments. The poop-deck is elevated above the main deck about four or five feet, and the top of the after- house is also used as a deck, and is the favorite lounging-place of the officers and captain in the early evening, the tops of the skylights forming comfortable seats. There is also a hammock swung there from the mizzen-mast to the mizzen shrouds, and the spanker-boom, especially when the sail is set, affords a capital resting-place. Julyip. The ship surrounded by a large school of porpoises all day. It numbered probably over two hundred fish. They seemed to be divided into families of five, and sometimes six or seven fish each. These would swim about in a perfect line, all abreast, all curving out of water at once, and each tail disappearing at the same instant. The calm water was alive with these files of ma- rine soldiers, whose drilling would reflect honor 22 A LANDLUBBER'S LOG OF Kain Deck. CAB IX PL AX. A. fonvaitl Cctbitt. "&. lifter * Sto/o C/t&st ' Mte sra- /lu*le /of ' root/i wfiere ciof/iiutjf, boots, c. are /fef>t , b/erlo\