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 YEAil OF LIBERTY. 
 
 mh]<fmi7m;.]d~^i)ir.'i^[tib:imi^^^^ 
 
Samuel Mmtstim MarFarlmid 
 
" 
 
 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
^i.-ij^' 
 
 
A YEAR OF LIBERTY. 
 
YEAR OF LIBERTY; 
 
 OR, 
 
 SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND 
 
 FEBRUARY 1 TO NOVEMBER 1. 
 
 BY 
 
 LONDON: 
 HORACE COX, 346, STRAND, W.O. 
 
 1867. 
 
 f^ 
 
LONDON : 
 VRINTKD BY IIORACK COX, 340, STRAND, W C. 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 The "Yeab op Libebtt," is as nearly as possible what the title 
 imports namely, a period of recreation after toil. During many 
 entire seasons the Author, rod in hand, had rambled over the length 
 and breadth of Ireland, seeing much and learning much, on all 
 matters connected with his favourite sport. With the advantage 
 of past experience, he again visited the island in 1865, pausing for a 
 time at nearly all the first-class salmon rivers and lakes, arriving 
 at each when in the highest order for angling. This plan often 
 necessitated passing more than once through districts previously 
 traversed, but as sport was the primary object of his visit, this 
 was of little moment, for what was lost in order was more than 
 compensated by success. 
 
 Whatever faults the work may possess, the writer at least lays 
 claim to accuracy. That which he saw, he endeavoured to describe 
 faithfully, and any reader who follows in his steps, and visits the 
 various waters at the periods referred to, may safely calculate on 
 sport. 
 
 It does not, however, necessarily follow that statements which 
 were true in 1865, should be so in 1867, for the constant tendency 
 
VI. PBEPAOB. ' 
 
 of the annually increasing passion for angling, is to convert open into 
 private waters. This spirit of exclusiveness prevails more in Scot- 
 land than in the sister kingdom, where, however, each year closes 
 some station that was previously free to the wandering sportsman. 
 The beneficial influence of the Fishery Act of 1861 is also fertile 
 in changes ; converting, rapidly and surely, bad streams into good 
 ones. Everywhere through the land salmon are on the increase, 
 not merely as regards numbers, but also as respects size, and in 
 the few rivers where artificial propagation has been steadily and 
 systematically followed that increase has been great indeed. 
 
 Whilst in Canada and the United States the king of fish is day 
 by day becoming more scarce, in Great Britain it is growing more 
 numerous. 
 
 Halcyon days are in store for the rising generation of anglers ; 
 and should one of these, faint and weary from the battle of life, 
 stumble on this volume, then probably long forgotten, may he do 
 as I have done, and gain new strength for the combat, through the 
 healing influence of a second "Yeae of Libeety." 
 
 W. P. 
 June, 1867. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Page. 
 Private and Confidential Arrival at Lismore Misgivings Fish in the 
 River Scholar's Throw Tendency of the Black water to get out of 
 Order " Show you the River, sir ?" The Bony Horse Unexpected 
 Fresh A Walk in the Woods Ara Glen Operations Resumed The 
 Lessee Sport for the Week Expenses. 1 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 
 Choice of a Profession Spring Flies The Round Hill The Last Chance 
 The Finesk The Valley of the Bride At Home in the Evening 
 Awful Deficit, and the Occasion thereof 7 
 
 CHAPTER IIL 
 
 Between Lismore and Fermoy On to Elillarney Cost of Journey The 
 Flesk Flies of the Neighbourhood Trolling on Lough Guttane 
 Remarks What might be done, and how to do it 12 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Sporting Expenses What they are, and what they might be A Dry 
 Sketch of the Lakes and Rivers of the District Trolling for Salmon, 
 or much Ado about Nothing Cross-lines Departure The Laune 
 Killorglin to Carra 17 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Rosbeigh The Beigh Carra River The Lake "My Autt's Legacy" 
 Glen Carra The Great Unknown ... ... ... ... ... 21 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Waterville Concerning the Lake How we got there and what we did ... 27 
 
VUl. CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. Page. 
 
 Waterville Derrynane Spring Equinox Below Bridge Lake in 
 Summer The Coach before the Horses " Maiden Trout" Qualms of 
 Conscience Experience 31 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 I go, but under protest Cummeragh River Distant View of the Inny 
 Lakes Certain Local Matters the Reader ought to know Ogham 
 Inscriptions Limerick The Old Hookmaker Doonass How we got 
 toSligo 37 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Our Hobbies Morning Walk Sligo Mathew the Great The Drought 
 begins to tell Waters of the Neighbourhood Going a-fishing Lough 
 Gill The Angler's Duty Advice to a dear Countryman Off for 
 Lough Melvin 43 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Lough Melvin A Week at Garrison What the Drought did Permission 
 Irish Follower Advantages as a Station Head Waters Inhabit- 
 ants of the Lake The Great Middle Class Trying our Luck De 
 Omnibus Rebus ^Leaf from an Old MS. ^We cry for Mercy 48 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Why certain People are neglected The Lake Islands ^Woodcocks and 
 Ducks ^Trolling Our Last Day History of the Week The Camp is 
 broken up, and we march on Derry Willie goes Home Lough Swilly 64 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 
 What's in a Name ? Walking in the Mist, and Floundering in the Mud 
 A very rough Sketch of the Capabilities of Donegal Not knowing, 
 can't say Lough Fern Grand Day on the Leannan Greenon Hill 
 Doings for the Week 60 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Bush Dulce Domum From Derry to Portrush What the Birds 
 said We sail Home, make Casting Linos and Flics, mend Rods, go to 
 the River, and get paid for the Job Pounds, Shillings, and Pence ... G7 
 
CONTENTS. IX. 
 
 CHAPTER XrV. Page. 
 
 The Bnah- From tho Soa to tho Leap Rod-making Hoadlanda Wo 
 row up tho Bann Throo Days consecutive Angling at Spring Tides 
 Laggandrade Letter from Lismore Wo go to Lough Neagh ... 73 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 In which there is not a Word about Salmon Fishing Toom Bridge 
 Lough Noagh Antrim Two Days' Trouting Business calls me to 
 Dublin Old Lodgings Tackle Shops The South Wall We arrive 
 at MuUingar Fine Weather not ruinous to Belvidere The Lake 
 District 79 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 He gets his Leg over the Traces MuUingar Its Market Population 
 Walk to the Lake The size of its Fish as compared with those of 
 Dereveragh and Lough Owel The Blow Line Mode of using it We 
 drift, and what wo do Cooking A dead calm Improving the Occa- 
 sion We talk Generalities, take to Roach Fishing, and determine to go 
 to Dereveragh next Morning 87 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 Contains nothing about the Killing, though a good deal concerning the 
 Curing of Salmon The Day ends better than it promised 93 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 We go to Castle Pollard Fish Dereveragh for two Days Return to 
 MuUingar and Belvidere Visit our old Acquaintance Lough Owel 
 And set out for Boyle 100 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Irish Ruins Church Islands Things in General Boyle Lough Gara 
 Lough Key Lough Arrow Prophetic of Good We go to the Erne 108 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 The Erne -Early Morning The Bridge A " great' Misfortune Subse- 
 quent Success The Colonel discourses Draughting under the Falls.. IIG 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 A Piscatorial Republic " The Bank of Ireland " Moss Row The 
 Captain's Throw The Lost Gaff " Luck's AH " 125 
 
X. CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. Page. 
 
 Ballyshannon Salmon Leap White Trout ^Evening The Grass Yard 
 How Pat was brought to Life The Colonel Tries on his Boots, and 
 John doth a Tale unfold 134: 
 
 CHAPTER XXm. 
 
 The Colonel takes Command of an Expedition Through many Dangers 
 we arrive safely at Beleek, and troll on the Lake for anything we can 
 catch After Mess the Crew cut their Sticks, but subsequently return 
 to Duty A desperate Character Westward Ho ! 141 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 Ballysidere Its Fishery and Fishing 149 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 Ballina The Tideway 158 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 Ballina The Scribe doth a Tale unfold Up the River, with manifold 
 Reminiscences of " Down the Water," illustrative of what may be done 
 on the Moy under favourable Circumstances Hypothesis 167 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 " Up the River " Pontoon Unexpected arrival of the Colonel He dis- 
 courses in the small hours A week on Lough Conn Departure for 
 Galway 175 
 
 CHAPTER XXVni. 
 Galway 186 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 Spiddal Costello Screebe Furnace Kilkerran Bay Birterbury Bay 
 Roundstone Ballinahinch Clifden View from Urrisbeg 195 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 Early Morning Up before the Sun Autumn The Evening fulfils its 
 Promise A Breeze Journey to Kylemore A Day on the Lake 
 Doings for the Week Leenane The Killeries Delphi The Errive 
 Drive to Westport The Reek, and what we saw there On to 
 Newport 203 
 
CONTENTS. XI. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. Page. 
 
 The Big House Head-quarters at Newport Advantages of our Position 
 in Wet and Dry Weather Newport River Burrishoole, Tyrena 
 Pleasant Dreams Michael O'Leary's Board Early Start An Inn 
 amongst the Mountains Breakfast A Day after my own Heart, the 
 Dawn of which is only shown in the present Chapter 213 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 A Day after my own Heart Dinner by Proxy The Spoils Night 
 Patredivivus 222 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 After a lazy Day on the Banks of the Beltra, we become more lazy still ; 
 abandon our Duty in a shameful Manner, and go Sight-seeing to the 
 Island of Achil 230 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 Aehil Taken Captive Western Village New Style of Trolling Inn Bill 
 Tyrena in " The Dry Season " Father Ned Perseverance Erica 
 Mediterranea Carrig-a-Binniogh A Quiet Evening Under the 
 Stars 237 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 Donegal We lodge by the Castle A Morning Walk to Mount Charles 
 The River Strong Run after the Netting Season The Blacksmith 
 attends our Summons A ministering Angel Return in a Deluge, and, 
 the lost One being found, the Bells are set a-ringing! 243 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 Donegal Lough Esk A Journey through the Wilderness 254 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 Gweedore Poison Glen Dunlewey Lakes Arigle Valley of the Claddy 
 Angling Regulations " Waters of the Neighbourhood " The Middle 
 Lake A Mountain Storm Old Dan 262 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVm. 
 Expectation The Myrtle Grove In at the Death Ruined Cabin An 
 Impostor Down to Bunbeg Gweedore River, and how to get there 
 Mountain Lake We set out on a long Journey, but say nothing about it 271 
 
XU. CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. Page. 
 
 Old Ground The Major di3course3 about Prawns Snipe-shooting 
 Autumn Surf Old Gun On the Mountain Banks of the Cummeragh 
 My Friend's Yacht We anchor the Horse, and launch forth on the 
 Lower Lake Black Trout Upper Lough Red Salmon We leave off 
 in the Dusk, and go home in the Dark 280 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 The last Act The Inny in order Disinterested Advice The Major dis- 
 tinguishes himself Grand Total Homewards De mortuis The 
 wind-up Vale 28C 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 A Tourist-Angler's Guide 292 
 
A \rj? A ry 
 
 \ 
 
 EREATA. 
 
 ,^0 7, line 1, for " profession," read " professional." 
 48, 6, omit the word " whose." 
 97, 2, for " constitutes," read " constitute." 
 
 102, last line but one, for " produce," read " proceed." 
 169, line 4, for " here," read " her." 
 
 169, 28, for " spite Tom's," read " spite of Tom's." 
 172, 9, for " that impression," read " some impression.' 
 
 190, 14, for " ware," read " wares." 
 
 208, 27, for "in," read " into." 
 222, 4, for " in," read "into." 
 227, 4, for " strides, intent," read " strides. Intent." 
 
 ^ ....^ mm m ^ v m VMVirU tlX lOW lOX ilU IIUUIU. X IIQ 
 
 Salmon Act of 1862 was at length in full operation. Queen's 
 gaps" where no such royal roads previously existed, increased 
 weekly close-time, together with the progressive demolition of 
 "fixed engines," promised great things, as I lay awake on that 
 blessed morning, thinking the dull dawn would never brighten 
 into day. Though nearly dark, the sun was shining on a world 
 of my own, for I was free free to come ; free to go ; free to 
 wander over delicious mountains, or rest by the sparkling river, 
 and there drink in new life from the contemplation of an eternal 
 youth, as fresh and bright as when the morning stars first sang 
 together. 
 
 So many doubts and fears crowded the space between hope and 
 fruition, that it seemed difficult to believe that tl^e firs^ 4ay of my 
 
XU. CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. Page. 
 
 Old Ground The Major discourses about Prawns Snipe-shooting 
 Autumn Surf Old Gun On the Mountain Banks of the Cummeragh 
 My Friend's Yacht We anchor the Horse, and launch forth on the 
 Lower Lake Black Trout Upper Lough Red Salmon We leave off 
 in the Dusk, and go home in the Dark 280 
 
A YEAR OF LIBERTY. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Private and Confidontial Ai'rival at Lismore ^Misgivings Fish in the River 
 Scholar's Throw Tendency of the Blackwator to get out of Order 
 "Show you the River, sir?" The Bony Horse Unexpected Fresh A 
 Walk in the Woods Ara Glen Operations Resumed The Lessee Sport 
 for the Week Expenses. 
 
 )HERE was no happier man in Her Majesty's dominions than 
 51 I, on the morning of January 30, 1805. During the pre- 
 vious sixteen years, I had passed fifteen entire angling 
 seasons in Leland ; but in the last I had been less fortunate, 
 circumstances having bound me a close prisoner at home. The 
 Salmon Act of 1862 was at length in full operation. "Queen's 
 gaps" where no such royal roads previously existed, increased 
 weekly close-time, together with the progressive demolition of 
 "fixed engines," promised great things, as I lay awake on that 
 blessed morning, thinking the dull dawn would never brighten 
 into day. Though nearly dark, the sun was shining on a world 
 of my own. for I was free free to come ; free to go ; free to 
 wander over delicious mountains, or rest by the sparkling river, 
 and there drink in new life from the contemplation of an eternal 
 youth, as fresh and bright as when the morning stars first sang 
 together. 
 
 So many doubts and fears crowded the space between hope and 
 fruition, that it seemed difl^cult to believe that tlje first 4av of my 
 -^ " ^ 
 
2 A YEAE OF LIBERTY; OR, 
 
 year of liberty had actuall}- come, and was no longer a poi'tion 
 of the uncertain future, but a present fact, a glorious reality. 
 
 With the cause of this happy consummation it is unnecessary to 
 trouble the reader. After all, who cares what it may be? The 
 other day my next-door neighbour ran away, and never told me the 
 reason. Some men fly from their debts as birds before snow one 
 has been jilted, another runs from matrimony. Sickness, care, ennui, 
 are all travellers ; but I go without fear of duns or dishonour, 
 whole in heart and sound of limb, and here stand in the street 
 to watch for the 'bus, as happy and foolish as any man could wish 
 to be. 
 
 As the reader will accompany us during the season, it is only fair 
 to tell him something of his compagnons du voijage. The party con- 
 sists of four persons a lady and her maid, your humble servant and 
 his man, who, besides being a master in all the mysteries of tackle, 
 officiates as valet to please me, and does much amateur cooking to 
 please himself. 
 
 In this practical age, as men care more for facts than fancies, it is 
 only necessary to say we left home on the morning of January SO, 
 and reached Lismore, via Bristol, Waterford, and Caliir. on the 
 following evening. A few lights twinkled in the shops as we drove 
 to our lodgings in the Mall, rejoicing not a little in the prospect of 
 food, rest, and fire, after a journey of thirty-six hours. . . . And 
 now, my dear sir, draw a chair to the side of this sparkling fire of 
 turf and bogwood, for, as I hope to take you with me, it is only right 
 to tell you my plans. 
 
 I propose, then, to visit most of the spring rivers and lakes in this 
 beautiful land, passing from one to another as circumstances may 
 render advisable, with the general design of working from the south, 
 to the extreme north of the island. In the three or four weeks which 
 divide the salmon from the grilse, I hope we shall enjoy many plea- 
 sant days with the trout; and from June, we shall hold a roving 
 commission, hoist sail, and steer where water, wind, and weather 
 promise most. 
 
 Punctually at seven on the following morning Willie brought hot 
 
f?ALMON ANQLINO IN IRELAND. 3 
 
 watt^r to niv dressiiig-room between the thumb and forefinger of 
 liis left hand was a fly read}' for winging. 
 
 < You are early at work." 
 
 "Ned Ray has been here this half -hour, sir ; we have been to the 
 river, and our flies are rather large for the water." 
 
 I had studied the face before me years enough to read it with 
 tolerable accuracy there was something wrong. "Well, what /.s^ 
 the matter ?" 
 
 "I seen it this moniing, and don't like it." 
 
 "Seen it seen what? Where was it? What was it like? What 
 on earth do you mean ? ' ' 
 
 " Tlie pools, master 'twas the pools I seen, and they a'n't as they 
 used to be." 
 
 " Nonsense, Willie ; you know that twenty-eight stake-nets out of 
 thirty are gone from the estuary of course there must be double the 
 number of fish; so make haste and get breakfast." We were soon 
 out. The distance to the river, though only a few hundred yards, 
 will yet afford time to say something of the fish before we get there. 
 Besides clean and foul salmon, the Blackwater, now and for the next 
 six or seven weeks, holds large numbers of fine fish, neither foul nor 
 fair, coming up to spawn. These are of all shades in short, they 
 are exactly in the condition of those which you and I, to our shame 
 be it said, killed in August and September last. So far as my ex- 
 perience goes, no other spring river in Ireland holds salmon at this 
 season in a similar condition. In other waters an occasional gravid 
 fish may be seen in March ; here they are not the exception, but the 
 rule, and are, at least below the weirs, invariably returaed safe and 
 sound from whence they came. Well, here we are at the end of 
 the lane, and with wonderful unanimity, turn to the "Scholar's 
 Throw," for its length the best piece of spring water in Ireland- 
 such, at least, I have hitherto found it. Behind, the ground rises 
 abruptly, clothed with brush and forest trees a combination more 
 charming to the artist than the angler and here my attendant, two 
 or three seasons since, attained considerable proficienc}' in the art of 
 climbing, but subsequently lost it from want of practice. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 A VEAE OF LIBERTY; OR, 
 
 All is soon ready; over the left shoulder flies the line, whilst the 
 eye follows it amongst the branches, and then a turn of the wrist 
 sends it light and true across the stream. At the fourth cast a fish 
 rose. I hear the word ^' fresh" pronounced simultaneously by 
 Messrs. Ned and Willie, the latter of whom, without a word, ex- 
 changes "the green" for "the grey." 
 
 Once more the fly skims over the water, a bright gleam marks the 
 run, and the descending line tells mo I am ""fast" in my first fish 
 for the season. A sharp round of ten minutes brings the fight to an 
 end, and finds a nine-pounder, as bright as a new shilling, helpless 
 in the net. 
 
 As "the Scholar" and your humble servant had not met for some 
 time, we had no intention of parting so soon. We enjoyed his plea- 
 sant society for an hour or more ; and then, as he only lent us one 
 gravid fish, finding there was nothing more to be got out of him, we 
 bade him good bye. For the remainder of the day we worked hard, 
 now on this bank, now on that, without moving another salmon. I 
 fear we all walked home silent and sulky. 
 
 On the following morning the air was mild and balmy, and I, at 
 least, set out in hope of high achievements ; but on reaching the 
 river, which yesterday was so bright, we found it thick as pea-soup 
 and yellow as a guinea. The Blackwater in its long course is joined 
 by hundreds of mountain streams : heavy rain falling in the neigh- 
 bourhood of one or more of these is sufficient to produce a fresh in 
 the main river not high, perhaps, but often indescribably dirty. 
 With us, the moisture hardly sufficed to lay the dust. In short, the 
 Blackwater is a carnally-minded stream, prone to break bounds and 
 get into mischief, but slow to return to its happier state of goodness, 
 purity, and order. 
 
 As nothing better may be done to-day, if the reader has no objec- 
 tion, we will " show him the river." About half a mile above the 
 town stand the weirs, and from thence to the tideway the best 
 angling has hitherto been found ; la creme de la creme lies about 
 midway between these points. We will take the casts in order, 
 pouimencing with those oi; the south side the "Scholar's Throw," 
 
SALMON ANGLING IX IRELAND. i} 
 
 "De Visiles' Stream," and the ^BuU Sod;" on the north, Ex Hole, 
 the Island, and De Visnes. All these are close to each other, and 
 within three minutes' walk of the town. There are also good 
 pools for a mile below ; whilst between the bridge and the weirs, 
 some weeks later, are three or four casts scarcely second to any on 
 the Blackwater. Besides salmon, this river contains many inhabitants 
 of a lower grade in fish society some of them, indeed, being ex- 
 ceedingly low and vulgar. There are white trout, pike, perch, eels, 
 gudgeon, brown trout, and flounders ; and still one fish, '* the Arab 
 of the water," remains to be mentioned. There is little, of course, 
 to be said in his praise, as he is carrion of the highest order; how- 
 ever, he will ent^r the estuary, whether we like him or not, in June 
 and July, to spawn, but does not ascend much beyond the extreme 
 tidal limit; he differs widely from the true alausa of the Severn, 
 and is, I believe, identical with the twaite of that river. This 
 naughty boy is only mentioned because he rises rather freely at a 
 grilse-fly. 
 
 Owing to its width and general unsuitableness for wading, the 
 Blackwater is not an easy river to fish successfully, but the rods 
 employed are unusually long, and enable a skilful hand to deliver 
 from twenty-five to thirty yards of line ; but it is useless to-day, so 
 we will extend our walk to the Castle grounds, through which the 
 angler will have to pass on his way to the upper water. 
 
 The forest odours are already stealing through these beautiful 
 woods. The bullfinch in his bridal jacket flits from spray to spray, 
 and the woodrush spreads its shining and striated foliage as a carpet 
 for our feet. 
 
 The present castle was founded in 1185 by John Earl of Morton ; 
 and its ruin and restoration through many bloody centuries would 
 fill a volume. There it stands, on the verge of a precipitous cliff 
 below flows the river, far above the tops of the forest trees rise tower 
 and battlement, and, from the terrace, the view over mountain and 
 valley is exquisitely beautiful. In the shade of the ancient giove 
 Raleigh perhaps once stood : here, too, Spenser may have dreamed, 
 and peopled the solitude with naked kem and stalwart knight. 
 
O A YEAR OF LIBERTY; OR, 
 
 As tlie salmon-rod must rest for one day at least, we will take the 
 reader to a cliarming little trout stream which crosses the high road, 
 about two miles north-west of the town. It is the type and flower 
 of mountain brooks, leaping in a series of noble cascades through a 
 wooded ravine. Wonderfully wild and beautiful is Ara Glen, its sides 
 clothed with oak and holly, pine and hazel. The winter floods have 
 swept away the underwood, leaving sufficient space for a skilful 
 angler. But little matters it what fly he throws, so it be small : 
 light or dark, silk body or fur, each seems as good as the other and 
 " perhaps better." 
 
 About the list of killed, the less said the better ; for the season is 
 early and the fish hardly yet in condition. Rather let me whisper that 
 any perf oimer as good as youi'self, sir, for example, will not only bag 
 here as many well-made '' stumps of trout" as ever he killed in his 
 life, but will moreover see a glen so weird, solitary, and beautiful, as 
 shall take him half a lifetime to match. 
 
 The fresh cleared off sooner than we expected ; in fact, it only 
 lasted a couple of days. For the remainder of the week the weather 
 was favourable, and the sport as bad as possible, the total for the six 
 days being only two spring fish, five ascending ditto, and one brown 
 trout about 31bi 
 
 Before closing this chapter it is necessary to say that the first step 
 to be taken by an angler on his arrival at Lismore is to write to the 
 kind and courteous lessee for permission. This is rarely refused to 
 ft stranger, who is, however, expected to take care of such fish as he 
 inay kill, and hand them over to Old Shehan as soon as possible. 
 
 Ye potent spirits, . s. and Co., what could we do without you ? 
 You certainly meddle awfully with our family affairs. You present 
 the spoon which holds our first mouthful of pap ; engross the marridge 
 settlement, and hire the mourning-coach ; keep us at home, or send 
 Us abroad, and fill our hearts with heaviness or our lips with laughter. 
 1 added up the waybill as I moralised, and found the joutney cost 
 exactly 21 Is. per head. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 Choice of a Profession Spring Flies The Round Hill The Last Chance 
 The Finesk The Valley of the Bride At Home in the Evening Awful 
 Deficit, and the Occasion thereof. 
 
 A stranger's first question to the waiter, on arriving at his hotel, 
 probably is, "Who can show me the water?" and ten to one the 
 luckless wanderer is saddled with some idle cousin or brother-in-law, 
 who, in an easy obliging manner, eats and drinks all he can get, 
 receives his money, and does nothing he undertook to do. 
 
 It may not, therefore, be out of place to speak of Ned Ray, than 
 whom a more skilful fly-maker or a better fishemian never cast angle 
 on the waters. Having spoken of honest Ned's manufacturing ability, 
 we will show you two of his favourites. 
 
 No. 1. Tip, gold thread and one turn of crimson seal ; tail, 
 topping with a few bright sprigs ; body, gi'een pig's- wool, two turns 
 of crimson at the shoulders, ribbed with gold ; legs, smoky blue 
 hackle ; jay shoulder ; wing, mixed with plenty of bustard ; horns, 
 crimson ; head, yellow seal ; hook, O'Shaughnessy, Nos, 2, 3, 4. 
 
 No. 2. Tip, silver thread and turn of blue seal ; tail, topping and 
 blue macaw ; body, light grey donkey fur, well picked out ; breast, 
 two turns of blue seal; ribs, broad silver; legs, none; shoulder, jay; 
 wing, a few bright sprigs, and two long feathers of the jungle cofck ; 
 horns, blue ; head, black; hook, O'Shaughnessy, Nos* 2, 3, 4, 5. 
 
 These flies are incomparably the best for the first thi-ed weeks of 
 the season. 
 
 Never did kelpy haunt his favourite rill with greater constancy 
 than I did the Blackwater. From morning till evening, all day and 
 every day for the last week, the salmon have been attended with 
 laudable perseverance. Had I stucl^ to business half as well my 
 fortune would have been made long ago. Yesterday (Feb, 7) proved 
 
A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; 01?, 
 
 ci blank, and to-day I hate not yet seen a fish ; the wind, too, has 
 gone round to the south-west, and the clouds are gathering in heavy 
 masses. Sulkily we returned through the castle grounds from the 
 upper casts, Willie lagging behind despondingly with the rod. " Shall 
 we give it up, or walk down to the Bound Hill, and once more try 
 the water from thence to the bridge ?" 
 
 For once my faithful companion demurred. " Sure there was a 
 power of rain overhead ; of course the glass was falling ; the wind 
 had died away. Sorra a fish was there in the water, and if there was, 
 there was not a ghost of a chance." 
 
 At this stage of the debate a policeman, for whom my attendant 
 had conceived a violent friendship, passed, on his way to Cappoquin. 
 The aspect of things grew brighter. Now, there was nothing like 
 perseverance, so to the Bound Hill we went. Over all the likely 
 water at its base we fished with savage determination, but no success ; 
 pool after pool always the same blank, blank, blank. At last we 
 came to the lane. The wood round " the Scholar" looked awfully 
 dismal. The rain was falling heavily, and every bush and tree had 
 changed into a shower-bath. We had reeled in, and already taken 
 a step or two up the hill, when better thoughts came to our aid, so 
 we turned into the coppice. At the second cast I was fast in a good 
 fish. Verily, these animals are a mystery. Had it not been for a 
 wholesome fear of police, I should have shouted ''lo triumphe!" as 
 we marched up the Mall in the gloaming. 
 
 All night poured the rain, and in the morning Messrs. Willie and 
 Bay were hard at work tying small flies, the " hare's-ear and yellow" 
 being grudgingly supplied by my landlady's cat. As the Black- 
 water was impracticable, we were to turn our misfortunes to account, 
 and take the Finesk at the fall of the fresh. 
 
 This pretty little stream, which crosses the road some distance 
 beyond Cappoquin, has a high local reputation for the size and 
 quality of its trout, but is useless to the angler, except at times like 
 the present. Too much cumbered with alder, thorn, and hazel, it 
 winds its way through meadows to the main river in alternate pools 
 and shallows. In a few hours we killed about a dozen and a 
 
SALMON ANaLIKG IN IRELAND. 9 
 
 half of respectable fish in fair condition, and above a score of small 
 ones. 
 
 What right or title I had to do these things, I know not. Mr. Bay, 
 in glowing language, proposed the expedition, and I went with a hazy 
 idea that something was wrong, and that I ought to have asked some 
 one or other for that leave which is so seldom refused in this kindly 
 land. 
 
 As our river is not yet in order, suppose we pay a visit to the 
 Bride. The lady is capricious, and does not always smile when her 
 suitors sigh ; another offer can do no harm, so we will take the rod 
 and try our fortune. 
 
 The Vale of the Bride were it not for the many Cromwellian 
 fortresses scattered over it ^has a strong English aspect. Familiar 
 home names stare at us from shop fronts ; drive in tax -carts ; and 
 own broad acres. Under the somewhat too vigorous administration 
 of the Protector, much property changed hands, and the sagacious 
 soldier rewarded those who served him. Neither life nor lands being 
 too secure, each new possessor erected a square tower to remedy the 
 difficulty, and add one charm more to the beautiful Bride. The 
 river is of moderate size and unincumbered with wood. In the 
 summer it holds grilse and white trout, at which time, it is only 
 right to say, I never tried it. To-day the water proved in good 
 order, and yielded us rather over two score trout, of all sizes, from 
 Jib. to 3oz. 
 
 It was late when we left Tallow Bridge ; and though the Black- 
 water cider needs no praise from me, I desire giatefuUy to record 
 that a glass or two of that nectar made the long hill short and 
 easy. 
 
 Home is a pleasant place. Within a stone's throw of my window 
 stands the Cathedral, its square tower and lofty spire rising above 
 the tall trees which sun'ound it. The strains of the organ, touched 
 by a hand of rare skill and taste, float through the room. In the old 
 limes the rooks are picking and stealing, toiling and fighting, like so 
 many featherless bipeds ; and, heedless of the turmoil, two venerable 
 bu'ds, without household cares, discoui*se gravely and sedately. Are 
 
10 A yUae of liberty; OB, 
 
 they pitying some gay young reprobate as yet unconscious of tlie 
 
 retribution that waits on naughty birds ? or are they, as Longfellow 
 
 sings 
 
 Talking about the farmer's crops V 
 
 At present I am not very well up in their language, but rather 
 incline to the latter hypothesis. 
 
 But I must listen no longer, for we have dined already, and are 
 going to pay a last visit to the river. In the little garden, Willie 
 and Ned Eay, with rod and gaff, are chatting and smoking so come 
 with us ; there is time to try Ex Hole and the Island before dusk. 
 On with the boots, Willie, and do your best, whilst we light a 
 post-prandial cigar and look on. 
 
 A light whistle announced good news. Man and rod might have 
 foimed a study the one so erect, easy, and confident, the other so 
 faultless in its perfect arch. We have scarce time to admire before 
 we have cause to deplore, for the baffled angler is even now gather- 
 ing up some sixty yards of slack line, taken in that fatal runthe 
 first and the last. 
 
 The Island yet remains. Twice it has been carefully tned without 
 a rise. Our third and last chance shall be with the orange gi'ouse. 
 Has the fly, or the witching hour, produced the change ? A clean 
 eleven*pounder has just been landed, and once more, about thirty 
 yards below the rod, stands my honest servant on the watch that no 
 salmon may turn at the fly unnoticed. 
 
 Simultaneously with his signal came a long drag on the line ; 
 swiftly and steadily the rod rose into position, and in thirty minutes 
 the vanquished lay on the bank, not dead but done up. He proved 
 a splendid ascending male, about 2 Gib., with a shoulder like a bull, 
 and a hook as thick as a walking-stick; Tenderly we returned him 
 to the water, and with very mixed feelings wttched him sail slowly 
 away. "What a fine ould ancient gladiator," sighed Ned. ''Oh, 
 master, what a kipper he'd have made," groaned Willie. 
 
 It is an awful thing to be called on to show one's accounts. The 
 books of our firm reveal a terrible deficit. Well, if we must, we 
 must. Clean fish, 5 ; ascending dittos 6 
 
SALMON ANOLlNa IN IEELAND. 11 
 
 Our visit to Lismore is ovor. The three weeks spent here have 
 been a dead faihire, produced, strangely enough, by the improvements 
 resulting from the Act of 18G2, which, after careful examination, 
 swept away the stake-nets from the estuary, and made a Queen's gap. 
 
 The reader will naturally say, all the salmon hitherto stopped by 
 the twenty-eight defunct stake-nets must have come into the river, 
 and nearly doubled the number of fish. Of course they came ; but, 
 alas ! they did not take lodgings, but were, I regret to say, little 
 better than tramps. Such is the fact ; but it is not always easy to 
 account for facts. Previous to this season the Blackwater, from tho 
 weirs to the tideway, was, in my opinion, if not the best, at least 
 equal to any spring water in Ireland ; and in support of this opinion 
 I may mention that in one throw alone (the Scholar), not a hundred 
 years ago, we landed sixty-two spring fish in little over ten consecu- 
 tive weeks. It may be taken for granted that none of these sailed 
 up to the weirs to ask if the door was open or shut, for ascending 
 fish never return from the highest point they have reached, unless 
 short of water. In fact, they lodged, not from necessity, but choice. 
 And why have they not done so this season ? Most probably because 
 the increased flow of water, or alteration in the direction of the current, 
 has pulled down their houses, without having yet found time to 
 build new ones. 
 
 That the injury to this beautiful lower water is permanent I can- 
 not believe. Let us hope that, like our navy, it is in a transition 
 state, and will soon come out all the better for our glorious new 
 fishery law. Of course, the upper waters have vastly improved, and 
 the long-suffering proprietors at length enjoy their own. In the 
 mean time we must wait, and I believe we shall not have to wait long 
 before we see the lower pools regain their late excellence, and outdo 
 their fonner gi'eat outdoings. 
 
12 
 
 A YEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Between Lismore and Fermoy On to Killarney Cost of Journey The 
 Flesk Flies of the Neighbourhood Trolling on Lough Guttane Remarks 
 What might be done, and how to do it. 
 
 The morning, on the 27tli of February, was bright and breezy as 
 we drove over the bridge of Lismore, on our way towards Fermoy. 
 Here poor Ned was waiting to bid us adieu, and give Willie parting 
 instructions. Far away, the Knockmel-dawn Mountains formed a 
 background to the romantic glen, through which the Oun-na-Sheadh 
 (a fair trout stream) brawls its way to join the main river at the 
 bridge. It is a quarrelsome little water as it ought to be, being 
 bom in Tipperary and, on the smallest provocation, howls and 
 shrieks and knocks the boulders about, in a way quite creditable to 
 the county. 
 
 Between this point and Fermoy the Blackwater is a glorious 
 stream, rolling on from broad pool to broader shallow, through 
 English-looking meadows, and past English-looking houses, belong- 
 ing to the resident gentry. Happy would it be for poor old Ireland 
 if she had more of exactly the same pattern and quality. From the 
 kindness of some of these gentlemen I obtained full angling powers, 
 and shall stay two or three days at Fermoy to avail myself of their 
 courtesy. 
 
 Few things are more agi-eeable than the first visit to a new river. 
 Hope is our companion, and there is no end to the pictures imagina- 
 tion paints. The opening day on promising water is positively 
 delightful comparatively, doubly delightful to an obstinate pig, 
 who for three weeks had been savagely working himself to death, in 
 order to prove that he was right and everybody else wrong. 
 
 ** Shall we begin here, Willie ?'* 
 
 My companion's mind, never very hopeful, was now quite out of 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IfiELAND. 13 
 
 tune. *' Maybe, sir," was his cautious answer, in the most doleful of 
 voices ; " it can't be worse than where we came from." 
 
 The spot thus described was a splendid stream, ending in a pool, 
 which, after dozing awhile, suddenly woke up, and, ashamed of being 
 caught napping, hurried on its way with redoubled speed. 
 
 Presently there was a deep sluggish boil under the fly ; we will 
 rest him and cast below. There was another, and another. All our 
 gfi-oanings and grumblings were forgotten. " Change the fly, Willie ; 
 we will try it down again ;" and so we did, but only landed two old 
 fish. 
 
 There were better things in store for us, as, before we left the 
 water, three beautiful spring salmon were killed, one spawner landed, 
 and I know not how many foul fish ; these last keeping us through 
 the day in a state of perpetual excitement. I thought of Mr. Bay's 
 parting words, ' Mind what Tm telling ye, your honour ; they'll 
 have the nice time entirely in county Cork." 
 
 The following day was much like the one which preceded it, quite 
 as pleasant and nearly as busy. Unused, in a general way, to covet 
 my neighbour's goods, I certainly then and there longed for the 
 exclusive right of three or four miles of the Blackwater, somewhere 
 about midway between Lismore and Fermoy. 
 
 We are now, as the reader knows, in the county of Cork. If he 
 had read the following passage before his visit he would have 
 believed he had gone somewhere else by mistake. Vast tracts of 
 land are still unreclaimed perhaps never can be reclaimed yet the 
 improvement of the last quarter of a century is marvellous indeed. 
 "Prior to the year 1829 a great part of the north-west district of 
 the county was almost inaccessible. This district, foi-med of a tract 
 of 970 square miles, is comprised between the Shannon and the 
 Blackwater, and up to the year 1822 contained no road passable for 
 horsemen in wet weather. The entire district must have remained 
 neglected by the hand of civilisation from the period at which its 
 ancient proprietors, the later earls of Desmond, had been dispossessed 
 of it in the reign of Elizabeth. The whole district contained but 
 two resident landed proprietors, whpe houses were distant thirty: 
 
14 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; Ofl, 
 
 eight and a half miles from each other. The inhabitants were poor 
 and ignorant, and the inaccessible nature of the country made it the 
 asylum of smugglers and outlaws." 
 
 Thank Heaven ! none of these unpleasant gentry now haunt the 
 environs of Mallow, which is a quiet peaceable place, celebrated for 
 its tepid mineral waters. The walk to the springs is matter for a 
 May morning. Health-giving fountains, lovely climate, capital 
 fishing what could a valetudinarian, piscatorially inclined, desire 
 more ? 
 
 The rail soon bore us to Killarne}- ; a brief conversation with Mr. 
 Callaghan McCarthy settled all necessary preliminaries, and in a 
 few minutes more we were off to Fort William, half farm, half 
 lodging house, with a very grand total of comfort. Do you think 
 that all this steaming and driving is dear at 17s. 6d, per head ? 
 
 The Flesk is full; and how different from the shallow stream 
 which scarce fills half its bed in summer. The day is bitterly cold, 
 the east wind striving, not in vain, to dissipate the caloric that wraps 
 our bodies like a mantle. 
 
 Eight hours in the stern-sheets of a boat, watching for a run, is 
 not to be thought of, with the thermometer three degrees above 
 frost, and the wind as sharp as a razor ; so this morning we will try 
 the Flesk, which, through the kindness of Colonel Herbert, is open 
 to all anglers who apply to him. Below our house is a beautiful 
 cast, but we made nothing of it. For five hours we worked manfully 
 over pool and rapid ; not a fish was to be seen, and had it not been 
 contrary to custom, we should have given it up in despair, and 
 returned by the road from the bridge. What a different animal is 
 man, with his stomach empty or full. At 2 p.m. we desponded ; 
 at 2.30 we lunched, and hope revived. 
 
 Cheerfully we lit a pipe, and leaned over the parapet, to mark a 
 scene as stern and wild as ever Salvator painted. All parts of this 
 district bear traces of the O'Donoghue ; a hundred ruins record their 
 feudal power, and here before me, near the bridge, stood Killaha, 
 grey and savage, facing the wilderness of Glen Flesk, seeming still to 
 keep guard over the vale below. 
 
gALMON ANGUNG IN IRELAND. 15 
 
 On tlio way homo our work was as neatly executed as if instant 
 payment were expected. At the eleventh hour it came. 
 
 A spirited rise in the '* rough stream" broke the spell, and at the 
 magical hour of sundown we were again successful. To land two 
 pood fish of 101b. iuid 81b. respectively, at the close of a day so 
 inauspiciously commenced, was very consoling. In salmon angling 
 perseverance is ever better than skill. lie who keeps his fly longest 
 in the water kills most ; and to-day the happy consummation was 
 due to dogged determination, which so often wrings victory from 
 disaster. 
 
 The flies used in this neighbourhood are the ordinary claret, fiery 
 brown, and olive, lightly dubbed, and lightly hackled. The only 
 thing worth remark about them is, that they are invariably tied on 
 hooks a size larger than would be employed by ninety-nine makers 
 out of a hundred in the manufacture of an article of similar dimen- 
 sions. It is many years since I first noticed this peculiarity, the 
 advantages of which were so obvious that I at once adopted, and 
 have never since abandoned, it. 
 
 A fly overtied never looks well, and rarely swims well ; nor does it 
 appear that the fish object to the Kerry plan. Doubtless the salmon 
 sees nothing but the fly : his vision is bounded by the tip. Coveting 
 the rose, he overlooks the thorn, like many a wise man. The pro- 
 fessionals here understand their business thoroughly ; but amongst 
 them McCarthy enjoys a high reputation. Whosoever you select, 
 keep him in his proper place. It vnll be true kindness, as well as 
 sound policy. 
 
 On the shores of Lough Guttane stand two anglers, by the generous 
 pemiission of Colonel Herbert ; but alas ! they have no bait, nor present 
 means of procuring any, for the midge flies are left behind. Again 
 and again every book and case has been carefully examined not a 
 hook in the most remote degree suitable is there. In sheer vexation, 
 Willie stands sketching a fancy par on the lid of his tobacco-box 
 with the end of a file. Necessity is the true source of inspiration. 
 '* Hand me a pin and the pliers." The head and point were soon off, 
 and the requisite length of wire remained. A blow with a stone 
 
16 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OB, 
 
 flattened one end, and with the file, point and barb were cut, in 
 humble imitation of that king of bookmakers O'Shaughnessj'. 
 Wax, silk, and hair were not wanting ; a little extemporaneous 
 dubbing from a Tweed jacket, and a few fibres from a drenched 
 feather on the shore, did the rest, and sufficed to procure plenty of 
 bait. But before we step into our boat, a word or two about the lake 
 will not be out of place. 
 
 Lough Guttane, nearly six miles in circumference, rests in a hollow 
 fonned by the rocky and precipitous sides of Mangerton and Crohare 
 and between lies the desolate Glen Kippock. This sheet of water 
 affords good trout-trolling in March, April, and May. Occasionally a 
 twelve-pounder may be taken, but fish of 41b. or 51b. will generally be 
 found on the top of the angler's basket. Any sportsman located in 
 one of the cottages on the south shore (some of my friends have tried 
 the plan, and found it answer) would undoubtedly kill, in the months 
 before mentioned, an enormous weight of trout, some of them heavy 
 fish ; but whether any of the eighteen-pounders, of which I heard 
 frequently, would figure in his list, seems less certain. 
 
 In my opinion Lough Owel, Lough Arrow, Dereverah, Carra, Lough 
 Corrib, Lough Mask, and Lough Conn yield fish of a higher average. 
 
 Whilst visiting this district in fonner seasons, I occasionally devoted 
 a day to Guttane, though never with any remarkable success. I am, 
 however, bound to say I have often heard from undoubted authority 
 of other anglers having enjoyed admirable sport. 
 
 Possibly the explanation of my failures may be found in the fact 
 of my staying a long distance from the lake, and visiting it only 
 when brought to a dead lock elsewhere. Nevertheless, I should not 
 fear to locate myself during April and May on the south shore, in full 
 expectation of good sport, brightened by some glorious days. 
 
 Round the lake, across the lake, backwards and forwards by the 
 solitary islet, with its melancholy ruin, we pulled. A stiff north-west 
 breeze and an ever-changing sky did all that winds and clouds could 
 do. Guttane did not, however, respond very cordially, as our basket 
 only contained thirteen fish, the heaviest 31b., whilst two or three 
 others ranged from 3.-|lb. to 2Ib. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 17 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Sporting Expenses What they aro, and what they might be A Dry Sketch 
 of the Lakes and Rivers of the District Trolling for Salmon, or much ado 
 about nothing Cross-linos Departure The Launo Killorglin to Carra. 
 
 FisiiiNO, like other field sports, has its expenses, but to state these 
 with any exactness is impossible, for one man will do as much with 
 50/. as another will with 100/. Every angler is intimate with one 
 or other of the gentlemen selected as an illustration. 
 
 The Hon. Charles Fever hurries to a good station, buys a stock of 
 flies sufficient to fill a portmanteau, and not succeeding at once, 
 abuses the water and starts for another. Here he fails likewise, and 
 again sets out in search of an Elysium where salmon can be taken 
 without skill or perseverance. At length, purse or patience failing, 
 he resigns the quest, votes salmon-angling a myth, and the whole 
 thing a humbug. On the following day Mr. Steady arrives, gets into 
 snug private quarters, makes himself at home, lands his hundred 
 fish, returns triumphant, and declares the cost a mere bagatelle. 
 
 The professional attendant may be set down from 15.9. to 205. per 
 week, and if a boat be required, from 20.9. to 30.9. ; inn-bills about 
 105. per day, and wine, ticket, and travelling charges ad lib. But 
 should the angler arrange his plans judiciously, and make a happy 
 selection of the district he intends to fish, his expenses would be 
 very moderate, and for three pounds a week he might travel like a 
 bagman I mean, commercial ambassador sport like a Nimrod, and 
 live like a gentleman. As the waters round Killaniey extend for 
 many miles in lake and river, a few words respecting them may be 
 useful. Into the lower and largest lake the Flesk debouches; at its 
 north-west extremity the Laune carries off the surplus waters of the 
 surrounding district, passing into the head of Dingle Bay at Kil- 
 lorglin. From this point the angling extends to the head of the 
 
18 A YEAR OP LIBERTY; OE, 
 
 lakes ill one direction, and in another for miles up the Flesk. As a 
 rule, the lower lake offers the best sport in spring and summer, and 
 during autumn spates, the Flesk. For beauty, the country is an 
 Eden; but who dare describe what Macaulay has seen with a poet's 
 eye, and touched with a painter's skill? 
 
 The lower lake, at this season, would afford noble sport, were it 
 not for the cross-lines ; as it is, the professionals have put fly-fishing 
 nearly out of the question, so the stranger had better content himself 
 with trolling. 
 
 At the present moment ten boats, and from twenty to thirty men, 
 are diligently working five cross-lines. These on the lake are what 
 ''long-lines" are on the sea, and the owners, like other fishers, are 
 earning their daily bread. Just now I heartily wish they were 
 seeking it in any other way. It is difficult to say what a salmon 
 can see so attractive in these diabolical inventions ; come over him 
 with long and light casting, make the fly swim deep and fair, and 
 play never so seductively before his eyes, there he lies in stoical 
 indifference. A couple of dozen flies, however, swimming, flying, 
 bounding, and splashing over his head, banish all prudential con- 
 siderations ; they bewilder his- judgment, and turn his brain. It is 
 sad to think so dear a friend is only a frivolous weak-minded 
 individual after all. 
 
 When we pushed off from the little pier at Ross Island, it was 
 barely ten o'clock, yet our ancient mariner was somewhat testy. 
 "Gentlemen," he said, "should come early if they wanted sport; 
 them divils of cross-lines is raking the lake these two hours." 
 
 The wild woods, the fairy islets, green with holly, arbutus, and 
 laurel, the sparkling water and delicious air, were all charming; 
 and early in the day a run that sent the left-hand rod flying into the 
 old man's lap, filled up the measure of our content. We lay on our 
 oars to watch the struggle; but what chance has an unlucky fish 
 in open water with three of O'Shaughnessy's hooks in his mouth ? 
 Our prize weighed nearly lolb,, being, I fancy, rather above the local 
 average. 
 
 This success raied our hopes to an extravagant pitch, Round 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN lEELAND. 19 
 
 islands and over reefs we pulled with determined perseverance, but 
 no further fortune ; and when we stepped out of the boat our friend's 
 parting words were emphatic : " Be early to-morrow, your honour ; 
 for your life be early!" The two following days we worked to the 
 admiration of our energetic attendant ; the reward, however, was by 
 no means in the ratio of our deserts, as we landed only one small fish 
 of 81b., and an ill-conditioned trout of about half that weight. 
 
 The omission was, perhaps, culpable ; but I breathed no benediction 
 on the cross-lines. 
 
 To the best of my belief I have spoken justly, though not flatter- 
 ingly, of the single rod fishing on the lake in spring. In summer 
 the lines are popularly supposed to disappear ; possibly they do, or 
 perhaps they rise very early in the lovely mornings of June and July. 
 Be this as it may, the single rod grilse-fishing is veiy fair, and the 
 quarters, perhaps, more luxurious than any other in the island. 
 
 Beautiful Killamey, adieu! thy charms must no longer enthral 
 me ; yet where in nature shall I see a face like thine ? Glorious are 
 thy mountains, pellucid thy lakes, set with their fairy islets, draped 
 in many colours, each one a marvel and a mystery. But, upon my 
 life, I can't stand it. The lines are too mighty to be resisted ; and 
 as discretion is the better part of valour, we shall retreat to Lough 
 Currane (better kno^vn as Watemlle), and take the Laune and Carra 
 by the way. 
 
 The road traversed by the mail-car follows the course of the 
 Laune closely, at a Jikely part of wliich it pulls up, and leaves us to 
 follow the river down to Killorglin. Not knowing the water, we 
 worked over all the streams and pools that came in our way, asking 
 questions when opportunity offered. This, though a pleasant mode, 
 is seldom a profitable one, as much time is wasted on barren water. 
 However, we rose two fish ; that both were fresh I should be 
 unwilling to assert, but the 7lb. salmon in the basket had, at any 
 rate, a fine batch of parasites near the ventral fin. 
 
 In a fomier chapter I hinted at the advantage of selecting a 
 central situation as a matter of economy. Killorglin is one of such, 
 for east, west, and jiorth are excellent waters, TlirougU the vjUjiga 
 
 P 2 
 
20 A YEAR OF LIBERTY; OR, 
 
 flows the Laune, always happily unconscious of fixed engines ; and 
 public conveyances pass every day, enabling a nomadic sportsman to 
 reach any one of the number for half-a-crown. Salmon are taken 
 in this river by drafting, but Monday belongs to the rod, and an 
 angler would have reason to complain if he did not on that day 
 " make a death." 
 
 Though never an intimate, the Laune is a very old acquaintance, 
 and many a time in spring, summer, and autumn have we sauntered 
 together for a pleasant hour. The general character of the river is 
 particularly inviting ; neither timber nor scrub offers any impedi- 
 ment. The water is rarely discoloured, and seldom low characters 
 common to all rivers which drain large lakes. 
 
 Castlepool and GaiTynalanna ! it is pleasant even to write your 
 names and I inscribe them here just as Hodge or Joe might carve 
 his sweetheart's name on tree or stile. 
 
 The tide met us about three miles and a half from Killorglin, so 
 we put up the rod, and set off at a round pace, in hopes of gaining 
 time to get a crust and an "air of the fire" before our party arrived. 
 The Ventry Arms is comfortable, and the proprietor shows a due 
 appreciation of visitors, by reserving five pools for their especial use 
 and benefit. A stranger to the country would do well to make 
 Killorglin his head-quarters. 
 
 KeiTy, as its name implies, is pre-eminently a region of rock and 
 water. Lough Currane, Lough Scall, Lough Carra, Guttane, the 
 lakes of Killamey, and a host of others, whilst justifying the 
 nomenclature, offer no common inducement to artist and angler. 
 
 Few waters in this county are closed to the wandering sportsman 
 who asks pennission ; at least, I have found it so, and desire grate- 
 fully to acknowledge the many courtesies so often received. 
 
 To conduct the reader to all the streams in this district would be 
 impossible ; we will therefore, as we jog along to Lady Headley's, 
 point out some of the best, premising that later in the season, when 
 the grilse and trout arrive, we hope (remember we do not promise) 
 to spend some pleasant days on two or three of them. 
 
 The rivers of Kerry are numerous, but of no great length. The 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 21 
 
 Maine debouches into the head of Dingle Bay, and offers excellent 
 grilse fishing ; it is tolerahb/ independent of freshes a great matter 
 to an angler who has only a limited time. But few strangers find 
 their way to Castlomaine, the stream of tourists flowing on to Caira, 
 Waterville, and Glengariff. The Lee is a small river, rising a few 
 miles east of Traloe, and happy is he who stands on its banks after 
 a night's rain in Jul}'. 
 
 The Carra rises in the mountains of Dunkerron, passes through 
 Glencarra, and, after forming an extensive lake, falls into Dingle 
 Bay. The Fartagh and Inny rise in the Iveragh Mountains, and 
 flow westward, the foimer into Valencia Harbour, the latter into 
 Ballinaskelligs Bay. In this stream a friend killed twelve and 
 fourteen salmon, on the two last days of a recent season, with his 
 single rod. 
 
 The Roughty empties itself into the inner extremity of Kenmare 
 River, into the northern side of which the Finihay, lesser Black- 
 water, and Sneem fall. Most of these are little to be depended on 
 except in wet seasons, and, though admirable after rain, are apt 
 sorely to try a gentleman whose time or patience is limited. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Rosbeigh The Bcigh Carra River Tho Lake" My Aunt's Legacy "Glen 
 Carra The Great Unknown. 
 
 Comfort and salmon-angling fine mountain scenery and good living, 
 are not necessarily united ; but at the Headley Anns they arc happily 
 blended. The time was, and that not long ago, when a night's rest 
 by a cabin fire, and a pot of potatoes, aided by the produce of his 
 creel, occasionally sei-ved the sportsman for bed and board. But 
 these days are passing away, and fair quarters are now to be found, 
 where some years since no accommodation could be procured. Yet 
 
22 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 even now, on many mountain streams, so seducing in August and 
 September, if the angler wishes to be near his water he must expect 
 to rough it, nor hope to find all the blessings of Arcadia in a 
 highland glen. 
 
 Suppose us now, however, at our comfortable breakfast in Lady 
 Headley's Hotel. Above us towers a lofty hill, clad to the summit 
 with larch and Scotch fir ; round its base murmurs the little Beigh ; 
 from the window of our room Dingle Bay is seen in all its beauty, 
 and in front, the road only separates the house from the heather, 
 which stretches miles away, as far as the eye can follow it. In the 
 winter the neighbourhood offers good duck and snipe shooting, and 
 in summer, sea-fishing, boating, and bathing are perfect. 
 
 The angling is varied and extensive, and, from what I have seen at 
 different times, by no means crowded in fact, a man might work 
 here for a week and meet no face, except his own, reflected in the 
 grand mirror before him. 
 
 The lake is free ; Mr. Winn rents a portion of the river near the 
 bridge, and sub-lets it at thirty shillings per month for each rod. 
 Mrs. Shea is, I believe, in treaty for that portion of the river extend- 
 ing from the lake to Mr. Winn's right; and Corney Clifford and young 
 McCarthy are the professionals. 
 
 The Beigh it is but a brook runs close by the house, and 
 during autumn spates contains a capital assortment of trout, in size 
 rather above the average of such waters. Many a happy, careless 
 hour I have whiled away on its banks. Now, this little stream holds 
 nothing but spent fish and brown trout, on which a good Catholic 
 might dine any day in Lent, to the certain mortification of the flesh* 
 A walk of twenty minutes in an opposite direction brings us to 
 Carrabridge. This water is said, and I believe with truth, to be one 
 of the earliest in the county. In November, December, and January, 
 clean fish enter in considerable numbers ; and, as all impediments to 
 their passage are then removed, they either settle in the upper pools, 
 locate in the lake, or lodge in the Blackstones river. In the latter 
 part of June come the grilse, which are soon followed by the trout 
 night fishing for which is much practised here in low water. These 
 
SALMON ANOLINa IN IRELAND. 08 
 
 fisli are, however, very small. There is some knack in casting after 
 dark ; the delivery must be particularly neat and clean, or the artist 
 will speedily find himself in a fix, with very little chance of getting 
 out of it. The lake holds brown trout of superior size and quality ; 
 and if, as Brother Michael maintains, "as is the redness, so is the 
 goodness," they must be good indeed. 
 
 At the present season the angler has to make his election between 
 the river and the lake between the fly and the troll. Although 
 often halting a short time at Eosbeigh, on my way to other stations, 
 I had never remained except once, and then during the latter part 
 of a season, about six years ago. True it is, every winter I vowed to 
 try the Carra in the spring, but never kept that vow until now. My 
 prime minister is violently anxious to try the fly, and, as he always 
 gets his way, we shall make our debut on the river as soon as breakfast 
 is over. 
 
 For two entire days we flogged the uncomplaining Caita without 
 success. The fine rocky pools doubtless held salmon, but we could 
 make nothing of them, for, in sixteen hours' thrashing, we rose only 
 two shy fish, nor am I sure that either of these were fresh* 
 
 The lake is a noble sheet of water, and right glad was I to stand 
 on its shores. The wash of the waves on the strand sounded fresh 
 and musical after the monotony of the last two days ; and with the 
 first roll of the boat half our vexations were forgotten. 
 
 The plan proposed was to pull in and out along the east and south 
 sides, and then fish as much of the west as we could. When we 
 reached the head of the lake we had three runs ^all trout; and near 
 the outfall of Blackstones a small fresh fish, under 8lb., was added 
 to the stock : but, like good simple souls, we were easily pleased, and 
 when the day was over, seven trout added to our salmon made us 
 as happy as kings. The lakers were by no means large ; the best 
 only weighed 4^1b,. whilst the remaining half-dozen did not make 
 collectively 81b. 
 
 All the next day the rain fell heavily ; to go out would have been 
 worse than useless, so the hours were devoted to domestic felicity. 
 My dear companion had been busy as a bee. Con'espondence long 
 
24 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 in arrear had been written up. Embroidery, crochet, plain work 
 why, the quantity got through was tremendous. There was nothing 
 more to do, so the stock-piece, which always seemed to take croon- 
 ing and purring over the quiet little events of the day was forthwith 
 put on the stage. Certainly it was very rude to sit in the window 
 with one's back to a lady, but the truth is, I was engaged on a very 
 interesting work of art. 
 
 'What are you doing ?" at length observed my companion. 
 
 ' Finishing a minnow." 
 
 ''Will you please to let me see it?" in the sweetest of voices. 
 
 ' With the greatest pleasure, as soon as completed. I am polishing 
 off the marks of the file, and the rigging won't take half an hour." 
 
 The what shall we call it ? the polite reply was so big that it 
 nearly produced a spasm of the glottis. Our good little maid opened 
 the door. ' Please, ma'am, do you know anything about your spoon ? 
 I can't find it" with a wicked glance towards the window. At 
 that moment I knew exactly what a thief, in the hands of the police, 
 feels when the stolen goods are in his pocket. " Is this it ? " I faltered, 
 producing the shaft of a small embossed silver article. On cross- 
 examination I was obliged to confess that, wanting such an artificial 
 bait for to-morrow, instead of taking a common one, I selected what 
 suited me best, and that happened to be an uncommon one. 
 
 Vowing never to offend again, I promised all sorts of things to 
 send the mutilated article to town to be reproduced to do to do 
 anything everything. 
 
 Fortunately, the opposite '-party" was as good and peaceable as 
 wise. " You know you might have taken the teapot, had you wanted 
 it ; but why would you take my poor aunt's spoon ?" 
 
 There was a delicious spring feeling in eai'th and air, in body and 
 spirit, as we stepped out merrily for our boat. The rain of the 
 previous day had filled the bog pools, and the small rills, not yet quite 
 run down, were bearing their tribute of amber to the lake. The 
 west wind was hurrying along, waking up the last of the clouds 
 which slept on the hills ; in short it was just the kind of day that 
 you and I know and appreciate. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 25 
 
 We commenced' on the west shore, and did so little that we deter- 
 mined to cross to the opposite side. Paddling and chatting, we had 
 done about half the distance, when a desperate run woke us up, only 
 just in time to seize the butt as it was diving overboard. In the 
 hmiy, line and rod had been giasped together, and in a moment 
 eight or ten feet of its length were dragged into the water ; quick as 
 light, however, the line was released, and away went the fish down, 
 down, down as if he never intended to stop. Ten minutes, twenty, 
 thirty passed, and still our friend was tugging away as hard as ever 
 at the bottom of the lake. Willie, who in fifteen years, had seen too 
 much to be surprised at anything, was at last growing curious. 
 Laying the paddles over the gunwale, he crawled over the beams, 
 gaff in hand. Another quarter of an hour passed, and then our fish, 
 slowly yielding to the heavy strain, came gradually nearer the surface. 
 Peering anxiously into the water, my companion leaned over the side ; 
 *' He's uncommon short, sir," looking inquiringly at his master. The 
 fish was now perfectly tractable, the line being rapidly gathered in and 
 coiled on the beam, rip-rip-rip. I actually felt the gaff tearing its way 
 out. The force brought the side more clearly into view ; it was broad 
 as a plank. Whish, whish, shrieked the wheel ; there was a slight 
 check and a snap ; and that was all I ever saw of my stout friend and 
 *'my aunt's spoon." 
 
 My faithful servant cast one imploring glance at the master ; his 
 unlucky knee still nailed the line to the beam. In winter and rough 
 weather, in heat and cold, he had served me with a love and fidelity 
 seldom met with never before had he made a mistake. " Cheer up, 
 old friend it was far more my fault than yours ; we shall both be 
 wiser another time." 
 
 Whether such a chance will ever recur remains to be seen but to 
 lose a Lake trout from 181b. to 201b. Bah I it gives me a pain in 
 the praecordial region even to recall it. As if to make amends, 
 fortune favoured us, for we carried home two fresh fish, 111b. and 
 12^1b. respectively; together Avith fourteen trout, one of which was 
 fine, and weighed 6lb. ; the rest were small. 
 
 We have closed our account with Can*a, and should have been 
 
26 A YEAil OF LTiBEETY; OE, 
 
 well pleased to have spent this our last day on the Blackstones ; 
 but it cannot be, as the sporting rights are reserved. In such cases 
 I never give leave, except to an old friend ; so, of course, never ask it. 
 
 A walk through Glen Carra, however, may not unprofitably occupy 
 the time, for it possesses the gifts of grouse ; spring and summer 
 salmon ; and for cocks, the covers of Lickeen are second to none in 
 the kingdom. Situated in an extensive basin, the moors rise gradually 
 to the summit of the mountains. On all sides the heather stretches 
 for leagues, and were it not for the " big house," with a few scattered 
 cabins near the bridge, the region might pass for a wilderness. 
 Fancy a bright morning in February ; the dead leaves filling the air 
 with their odours as they crackle under your feet ; the oak and holly 
 scrub full of cocks, and many a bright-eyed salmon waiting your 
 commands in the rocky pools of the Blackstones. I think we should 
 then deem Lickeen sufficiently charming. 
 
 At no great distance up the valley lies an extensive lake, which a 
 friend (one of the most accomplished sportsmen in the kingdom) 
 assured me holds noble red trout. It had been the chief object of 
 my walk to visit this water, but the time failed me. Hitherto it has, 
 I believe, been very little fished, as the situation is so remote. I think 
 Captain D told me, no boat but his own had ever floated on it. 
 
 Were I to become skipper of a curragh and master of a tent, I 
 should like to launch the one and pitch the other on the shores of this 
 solitary lake. 
 
 All the surrounding waters contain red trout, and here, doubtless, 
 undisturbed for centuries, they have reached a good old age, and 
 attained the maximum of size and dignity. 
 
SALMON ANGLlNa IN IfiELAND. 27 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Watorvillo Concerning tho Lake -How wo got there and what we did. 
 
 The mail-car from Killarncy to Watferville stops daily at our door, 
 and, barring accidents, will carry us this evening, the 1 3th of March, 
 to the shores of Lough Currane. This sheet of water, ending at the 
 west end of tho village, is fed by the Cummeragh river, which flows 
 from the smaller lakes of Derriana and Elaineane. 
 
 Lough Currane justly celebrated, not only for its spring salmon, 
 but for a run of trout greater, I believe, than any other open Elysium 
 Piscatorum in L-eland boasts two distinct seasons ; the first from 
 Febiniary to the end of May, the second from the middle of June to 
 the end of October, during which latter period the upper waters are 
 full of fish. 
 
 In the earlier months, for some unknown reason, the salmon, with 
 very rare exceptions, refuse all lures except the troll, which, how- 
 ever, they take freely; but in May a change for the better comes 
 over them, and they rise sportingly at the fly. Spring trout also, 
 from 41b. to 01b., may be taken, but they are a wary race, which, 
 having lived long in this deceitful world, profit by experience. Eed 
 trout are not only numerous, but fine, and m quality second only to 
 those of Westmeath. During the trolling season they add a weighty 
 item to the creel. 
 
 When I first visited Waterville, Jerry Quirk reigned in a gi-and 
 Hibernian hotel at the eastern extremity of the village, where many 
 a night I have gone to bed with the poker, as ofifering some slight 
 protection against the said Jerry's nocturnal pleasantries. But this 
 mode of exercising hospitality exists no longer, since Mr. Quirk 
 emigi'ated to the States, where, for anything I know, he enlisted in 
 M'Mahon's brigade, and there gained high renown for brewing 
 whisky punch and breaking heads; 
 
28 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 Her Majesty's Irish mail-cars, though always appearing to do 
 great things in the way of speed, in reality do very little ; so, though 
 the distance to Waterville was not great, we took a considerable 
 time to do it. Our steed was a representative animal, with a high 
 irregular spinal ridge, a wonderful absence of flesh, and an eye in 
 which fun, pluck, and devilment were happily blended, whilst the 
 saucy toss of his head and general bearing said plainly, ' Here we 
 are, full of life, and up to anything." 
 
 The road ran over a dull waste of peat bogs, at this season flower- 
 less and desolate, the black pools trembling as we drove along. 
 Our conductor, however, took especial care that the silence should 
 not be oppressive. *' Ah, Barne}?-, ye divil ! " (to the vicious, raw- 
 boned horse) ' ar'n't ye ashamed of yerself ^whoop I to keep her 
 beautiful ladyship's honour here in the cowld ? Get along wid ye, 
 darlint " (with a gay good-humoured glance at our little maid from 
 those sly, grey, inscrutable Kerry eyes). "And so yer honour is 
 come again to the ould country for spourt. And it's lots of it ye'll 
 have. There's lashings of fish in the lake ; houl regiments of 'em. 
 Sorra such a season ever there was.'* 
 
 This sort of thing used to charm me a few years ago, for I heard 
 and believed, being thereby the gainer of many fallacious but pleasant 
 hopes. Knowledge may be power, but it is not necessarily happi- 
 ness. Now my humour had grown sceptical. I did not believe a 
 word of it (Wisdom was wrong for once) ; so I chose to feel sure the 
 speaker was talking bosh, and merely intended to say something 
 pleasant. 
 
 I was glad to scent the peat smoke in the sweet evening air, as it 
 showed we were near the end of our journey. Taken as a whole, the 
 drive had been a success, the only accidents of the entire distance 
 being one broken trace and a fracture of the hind leg of a luckless 
 cur, who, in a fit of sudden insanity, challenged us to a race down 
 hill ; and so we came to the Lake Hotel, to supper and rest. 
 
 Dear old Waterville ! in this cold March morning your mountains 
 show as clear and lovely, and your bogs rather browner than when 
 we parted. Perhaps, as regards complexion, you might say the same 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBELAND. 21) 
 
 to mo. I should not bo hurt ; truth, kindly spoken by lips we love, 
 seldom does wound ; and with you, old friend, I have passed so many 
 happy months, that, though an unusually shy man, I do not blush to 
 make the touching avowal I love you. 
 
 We made quite a grand procession at starting. John marched first 
 with the rods, followed by Tim bearing the net and gaff ; next came 
 "Willie with the basket and bag the former, as it contained raw 
 materials for manufacture, always looked prettier on his shoulder ; 
 next in order was your humble servant ; and last of all shambled the 
 waiter, with a small stock of preventives against cold and hunger. 
 Nor was our start on the lake less dignified ; for Willie had extem- 
 porised two new cleats, and some thole-pins, so that we went off in 
 gi'eat style with four oars, the old boat groaning and plunging for- 
 ward like an overrun bison on the prairies. 
 
 I became acquainted with John something in this wise. A hun- 
 dred years ago, let us say (one ought not to be personal), our 
 professional anglers wero rather naughty boys picking up, retain- 
 ing, and improving all the sad things so carelessly thrown away by 
 certain fast young gentlemen I have in my eye. Now my friend 
 John had rather an indifferent reputation in the village, being consi- 
 dered a poor mean-spirited fellow, who never drank whisky, nor 
 figured in a faction fight ; he was said, moreover, to be respectful 
 and quiet, so I took him, many a day ago, and stuck to him. But, 
 alas ! John had two faults firstly, being sometimes passive when 
 he should have been active, and secondly, having a sad constitutional 
 tendency to colic when the wind was ahead. Pulling a diminutive 
 oar, he placed himself in the bow, and when abreast of Church 
 Island calmly drew his paddle over the opposite gunwale, and produced 
 his pouch. 
 
 "Here's for luck, y'r honour, and plinty of it;" but whether 
 the latter clause was addressed to the pouch or myself seemed 
 uncertain. 
 
 I feel rather unwilling to say anything about the tackle we are 
 going to use doubtless you know it as well as I do ; but then, by a 
 sort oijictio legis, I am bound to hold you do not or what would 
 
80 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OE, 
 
 be the use of my writing at all ? Well, then, on this thread of 
 single gilt are two treble hooks (not over large) an inch and a half 
 apart. Insert the end of the thread through the vent of the we 
 were going to say parr ; but that could not be, as the law is dead 
 against it and bring it out at the mouth. This small piece of lead 
 has, as you see, a brass pin at the bottom and a brass eye at the top ; 
 pass the free end of the gut through the eye, and bury the lead in 
 the mouth of the bait ; put a stitch through the loop, including the 
 upper and lower jaw ; then with the thumb and forefinger give the 
 requisite curve, and the business is done. Before you drop it over 
 the side, observe the length of the loop on the trace tight fits do 
 not answer for boat work on cold days in March. 
 
 As I said before, John stopped to light his pipe ; the example was 
 contagious, and, with incense reeking from four altars, and zealous 
 invocations to Fortune, the baits were dropped into the water, and 
 the first act on Lough Currane began. 
 
 We took two courses round Church Island, but did nothing, so we 
 proceeded to call at the best lodges on the eastern shore, where our 
 luck began to mend, and by three o'clock ten good trout were in the 
 bag ; but not a salmon, nor the sight of one. Another hour passed, 
 and the faces of master and men grew longer and bluer. To add to 
 our distress, John's symptoms pointed to a severe attack of colic. At 
 this critical moment both rods were run simultaneously. There was 
 no mistake about it ; we were fast in two salmon. 
 
 I believe, on my honour, that a Waterville spring fish fights more 
 desperately than any salmon of his weight elsewhere. In the pre- 
 sent case they fully justified our good opinion. Two fish hooked at 
 the same time require careful handling ; and more than once, when 
 they crossed, we were obliged to pass one rod over the other, and 
 exchange, to avoid fouling. It cost us nearly half an hour before 
 both were secured. New remedies are brought to light every day, 
 but I first learned this afternoon that the struggles of an unlucky 
 animal were a sovereigii cure for colic. 
 
 In this benighted region, when a salmon dies, certain ceremonies 
 &re wont to be perfonjaed, the most imposing of which appefvrs to be 
 
SALMON ANftLINQ IN IRELAND. 31 
 
 "the libation," or grace cup. Although stoutly resisting such 
 heathen practices, on the present occasion I could hardly do so, as 
 to-day partook of the nature of a festival, not wholly unlike the 
 dies Jest i, on which Adams informs us '' there was a general cessation 
 of business." 
 
 When the funeral rites were duly solemnised, and the baits once 
 more spinning over the quarters of the boat, it was getting late, and 
 little chance of further sport remained. Still the spirits of my crew 
 did not flag, so we worked steadily homewards, and thought ourselves 
 veiy fortunate in landing another small fish of 81b. 
 
 If in the morning John marched in the van like a hero to battle, 
 you may be sure he held the post of honour when returning 
 victorious. 
 
 At the landing-place bright eyes awaited our return. As a matter 
 of course, my faithful follower walked up to his mistress. 
 
 "Come, Willie," she said, "turn out the bag. Ah! three nice 
 fish 91b., 111b., and 81b." And so ended our first day on Lough 
 Currane. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Waterville Derrynane Spring Equinox Below Bridge Lake in Summer 
 The Coach before the Horses "Maiden Trout" Qualms of Conscience- 
 Experience. 
 
 During the succeeding week the weather continued fine, and, for 
 the season, reasonably mild ; so our excursions on the lake met with 
 no interruption, and we worked all day and every day with infinite 
 gusto. The year was above the average, and the sport, for a 
 moderate-minded man, excellent, our worst day being two clean 
 fish, and our best five. If to this the usual quota of brown trout 
 be added, X think we had sufficient reason to be s?itisf;ed, which, 
 
32 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 believe me, is not always the case with gentlemen who travel for 
 amusement. 
 
 The principal scene of our week's happy toil was the eastern 
 shore of the lake, including Cummeragh Bay ; so to-day we will 
 change our ground and visit the opposite side. 
 
 On the western shore the wild mountain range, extending from 
 Derrynane, rises abmptly, forming a grand and beautiful setting to 
 the silvery sheet below. But these mountains will never again echo 
 to the joyous hallo or cheery horn of the great Dan. Why here, 
 actually here, on his own happy hunting grounds, he is dead as a 
 door-nail. Such is fame. What a change this peaceful wilderness 
 must have been after the sweat and turmoil of '^ Conciliation Hall." 
 Surely he must often have quitted his home with shaken purpose 
 and sinking heart. Could he have gazed into the magic mirror 
 below, and seen things as we see them to-day, he -would have 
 remained with his hounds when " Emancipation," the great monu- 
 ment of his life, had been built up, and rested on his fame. 
 
 We cannot start till the bait arrives. John, whose business it is 
 to procure it, ought to have returned long ago. As he was nowhere 
 in sight, I strolled to the bridge to look after him. Lo ! there he 
 was in all his glory. With his legs comfortably disposed on the 
 shingle, and his back supported by a smooth boulder, the wretched 
 man was fast asleep. 
 
 Across his knees lay the butt ; his hands had relaxed their hold, 
 and two-thirds of the rod lay quietly in the water no, not quietly 
 for an imfortunate eel was tugging at it with all his might, begging 
 the inexorable sleeper " to get up and take the nasty pin out of his 
 throat, for it hurt him very much, and he was but a poor slimy 
 fellow after all, and meant no harm in tasting what Misther John 
 had so kindly placed at his disposal." 
 
 I felt seriously alarmed at this unexpected malady. I had learned 
 how colic might be cured, but was fairly puzzled how to treat the 
 present crisis. It would be unsafe even to trust him alone in future, 
 as the poor fellow might, at any moment, fall into a state of coma. 
 
 The first thing, however, to be done was to rouse the sufferer, so 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 33 
 
 I administered a sharp counter-imtant on the spot, and then dosed 
 him \Yith good advice. 
 
 The oration was touching, and the pith of it was, that though 
 perfect quiet was essential to the success of bottom-fishing in clear 
 water, yet if I found him practising again in his sleep, he might go 
 
 to . I fear I mentioned a gentleman with whom I earnestly 
 
 hope poor John will never take service. 
 
 It was fully eleven o'clock when we set off, and as trout fonned 
 the main object of the expedition, we put out the baits as soon as 
 we had shoved off. How pleasant it was, sweeping round the little 
 bays, and doubling the rocky headlands, now playing a laker, and 
 then listening to the innocent kindly chat of the boatmen. John, 
 having no relapse since the morning, was rapidly recovering his 
 spirits, and in full talk about " a mighty big fish he had once seen 
 caught at the Old Ship.*' Poor Pat had never read the fable of the 
 goose and the golden eggs, and, being only a simple uneducated 
 fellow, did not perceive that if greedy proprietors and bad bog- 
 trotting boys in the dark ages, of course had not so often 
 interrupted Mrs. Salmon in her household duties in dark November 
 nights, and slipped a neat wire grating over the eye of the cutts on 
 Saturday evenings, or sometimes in a fresh, let the breast of the 
 traps fall accidentally after dusk on Sundays, there might still have 
 been a fish as big as he remembers to have seen. In this lake, as in 
 all others, salmon either lodge on certain favourite shores or on 
 rocky reefs, and towards some of these we were slowly making our 
 way. A few fathoms to the south of an elevated rocky islet we had 
 some pretty sport for an hour, landing five r six very nice lakers, 
 and, returning by the Old Ship, ran the only salmon of the day. 
 On feeling the hook our new acquaintance darted towards tlie boat, 
 and then, with a vicious lash of his broad tail (which made an eddy 
 like the sweep of an oar), plunged headlong downwards within a yard 
 of us. 
 
 It was impossible to keep the rod in position, as the line would 
 not run ; so with three or four feet of the top under water, and the 
 butt above my head, the reel all the time groaning as if very bad 
 
 D 
 
34 SALMON ANGLING IN lEELAND. 
 
 indeed, I let matters take their own course. It seemed as if the 
 salmon had made a perpendicular run of fifty yards ; whether he did. 
 or only appeared to do so, I cannot tell. I remember having a vague 
 idea that my hooks might be fast in an ancient relative of John's 
 stout gentleman. However, he was a good fish, the best I killed 
 during my stay, and weighed a little over 151b. 
 
 The glass was falling when we left home, but we found it much 
 lower on our return. The wind, too, was moaning and shrieking 
 over the mountains, and soon after dark the rain came down as only 
 Atlantic rain can do. There was no help for it we were in for the 
 equinox, and for the next day or two must give up all thoughts of 
 the lake. It should not, however, be supposed that Currane is at all 
 given to dirty tricks on the contrary, by its inherent good- 
 ness it soon purifies the nasty things thrown into it, and only 
 rises higher and purer from the attacks of its brawling and petulant 
 tributaries. 
 
 A few seasons ago, the kind old lessee, with whom I shall never 
 chat again, told me that in the spring, the river was full of a small 
 silvery fish which he called '^maiden trout." These were said to be 
 brought down by the March and April spates. Whether this state- 
 ment was critically exact I do not know ; positively, I have no theory 
 of my own on the subject ; and being a member of the Society of 
 Friends, have no intention of doing battle physically or intellectually 
 on the question, and shall positively decline if summoned to '' the 
 field." 
 
 As this was about the time, we made a cast of trout flies, and 
 strolled to the bridge. Before wetting the line I may as well say a 
 few words about this river. From the bridge to the sea the distance 
 may be two hundred and fifty or three hundred yards, the best portion 
 being that nearest the beach. This is indeed worth visiting when the 
 summer trout are in full run. Many a time have I stood by the old 
 peat-stack watching these beautiful creatures glistening in the pool, 
 turning first one silver side and then the other to the smooth sand 
 no doubt thinking it capital fun to feel the dear but troublesome 
 friends they brought from the sea growing more sick and brown 
 
A YEAR OP LIBERTY ; OR, :..) 
 
 every hour in the fresh stream. I believe there are no better twenty 
 yards of trout water in Ireland than that space above the shingles : 
 there may be, I can only say I never found it. 
 
 Let no man visit Waterville in July with the hope of catching 
 grilse. The lake is a trout lake, and nothing more. It is only fair, 
 however, to say, that a friend, of whose skill and veracity I entertain 
 a high opinion, dissents from this statement, and declares he has 
 occasionally taken two or three peel in a single day on the lake. Of 
 course this may always be on the cards ; still the run of summer fish 
 is far too small to offer a reasonable chance of anything worthy the 
 name of sport. 
 
 In a previous visit we arrived early in June, and remained till the 
 end of September, and in that time I never killed one, nor saw 
 anyone else do so. On every breezy day, a red salmon or two would 
 come at the fly, just to say, " How do you do ?" and then, with a 
 scornful wave of his tail, depart as free as he came. I mention these 
 matters here, as we shall have no time to visit Ourrane in the 
 summer, though, if we pass this way again during the late autumn 
 rains, I hope to spend a day or two with my old friend the 
 Inny, and also visit Lakes Derryana and Elaianane. These two 
 musical words, are spelt, after the local pronunciation, and not 
 according to the Ordnance survey. All this, however, is in 
 advance of my subject, so we will try back, and look for our 
 " maiden trout." 
 
 My old friend's statement, that the water at times like the present 
 was full of these creatures, was soon shown to be correct. In the 
 flat, between the bridge and the weirs, I killed a score and a half, 
 and might have filled the basket had his theory been more conclusive. 
 In short, I was suffering from an unwonted attack of conscience, and 
 was tormented with frightful suspicions of murdering *' water babies,'* 
 w^andering from home for the first time. 
 
 Do men ever profit by the experience of others ? Not often, I 
 fancy, though they may sometimes learn a lesson, when the good 
 fairies are pinching them for their sins. Now, gentlemen, after these 
 general moral observations, fancying myself once more seated in the 
 
 P ? 
 
56 A YEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 professor's cliair, I will finish 1113' lecture with a story, every word of 
 which is, however, true. 
 
 A long while ago, a sharp, active, good-humoured young fellow, an 
 old schoolfellow of mine, made his first visit to this country. Of 
 course he took his tackle with him, and the entire stock might have 
 easily packed into his waistcoat pocket. His enemies asserted that 
 he carried it in his aunt's snuff-box, but I solemnly assure you 
 gentlemen, that this was scandal. 
 
 Well, to Ireland he came, and having some common sense, soon 
 found that (piscatorially speaking) he knew nothing he ought to 
 know. And how do you think he set about his education ? "Why, 
 he went on his travels, and visited nearly every river and lake in the 
 island. 
 
 On arriving at a new station, his first visit was to some profes- 
 sional, to whom he put such questions as these ; " Have you any 
 spring fish ? At what time do the grilse arrive ? Ditto white trout ? 
 What would you consider a good day's angling ? Is leave to be 
 bought, or had for the asking ?" Being rather a modest young man, 
 he did not put above a dozen or two questions besides. Our friend 
 believed about half he heard (which, as you will remark, was a very 
 liberal allowance), posted his books, and next set off for the river. 
 Here he hooked the first unfortunate angler he saw, and put him 
 through the same examination. If prosperous, he said as little as 
 possible ; did he fail, no terms were strong enough " The river was 
 a humbug ; there was not a fish in it never had been, he believed, 
 nor ever would be." Here, again, our judicious traveller struck a 
 balance, made up his notes, and hurried to the lessee, who, in turn, 
 submitted to the infliction as best he might. 
 
 Thus he went on from day to day, raising all sorts of hopes in the 
 minds of professionals, and boring innumerable other innocent 
 people nearly to death. At length his journey brought him to 
 Dublin, and by this time he knew a thing or two. So he bought 
 three or four rods, lots of seals' furs, pig's wool, and no end of useful 
 things ; and having done all this, went calmly home with a quiet 
 conscience, and waited, not too patiently, for the coming season ; 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 37 
 
 then lie returned, soon gained practical skill, got into good company, 
 was often beaten but never disheartened, and during the next four- 
 teen or fifteen years held up his head with the best, and made a bag 
 as good as any of them. 
 
 In conclusion, gentlemen, let me commend our friend's example to 
 your notice, and advise you to follow it. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 I go, but under protest Cummeragh River Distant View of the Inny Lakes 
 Certain Local Matters the Reader ought to know Ogham Inscriptions 
 Limerick The Old Hookmaker Doonass How we got to Sligo. 
 
 March 24. Waterville. 
 Yesterday I promised to leave ; to-day I vowed to depart ; well, 
 there is no faith in man. But, indeed and indeed, I will positively 
 go to-morrow, though under protest. The lake promises excellent 
 sport for the next month to come. Could I follow my own inclina- 
 tions, not a step would I stir ; but there you are, my dear friend, 
 grimly shaking your paper-knife at a poor fellow, and saying in an 
 awful voice, which makes me tremble all over : " Halloa, you sir, 
 what are you loitering about for ? Come, be quick, move on, do you 
 hear?" Well, if we must, we must; but if all the bobbies in 
 Christendom are after me, to-day I will go to Cummeragh. 
 
 There was rain yesterday in the mountains, and the water is of 
 the true coffee colour ; so, if there be but a couple of salmon in the 
 river, we shall be pretty sure of one. 
 
 The Cummeragh, as I remarked in a former chapter, is the chief 
 feeder of Currane. It is a short river, merely the connecting link 
 between the lakes. The best part of it does not exceed a mile or a 
 mile and a half, of which the first half is rocky, and the second 
 a dismal swamp. 
 
 Tim, Willie, and I pulled to the head of the lake, drew the boat 
 
o8 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 up, hid the oars, and commenced fishing with a fly, I will try to 
 describe. Tip, silver twist ; tag, golden-yellow seal ; tail, topping, 
 bustard, mallard, and ruff ; body, brightest scarlet seal's fur ribbed 
 wibh silver ; shoulder, golden-yellow pig's wool and jay ; hackle, 
 scarlet ; wing, two feathers of the jungle cock, rich but light 
 sprigging, topping over all ; horns very long, crimson macaw. 
 
 In the rocky pools of the lower part we had one shy rise, which 
 I thought was made by a spent fish, the rather as I had landed 
 one of these sick people just before. By and by we came to the 
 dismal swamp, where for some distance the river was as dead as a 
 canal, but not so wide deep, and black as ink ; but here, also, was 
 the part where we expected to succeed. 
 
 After landing another spent fish and half a score of foul trout, 
 we struck a ten-pounder and killed him. 
 
 I looked at Willie's face as he lifted our prize from the water, and 
 should not have recognised it. The salmon ran gallantly first up 
 and then down the river at a splendid pace ; of course w*e followed 
 in single file, up to our knees in slush, each man splashing his next 
 neighbour as far as was possible, till both became a deep maroon 
 colour. Had Tim and Willie been buried in the bog for a week, and 
 then dug up, they could scarcely have been more perfectly cased 
 with the solution of peat. 
 
 Finding we could do no more in this horrible hole, we rubbed 
 ourselves as clean as we could with dry heather, and having thus 
 completed our toilet, commenced fishing back to the boat, killing on 
 the way the salmon I had risen some hours before, which proved a 
 small fresh one of 7lb. 
 
 Many a time did we turn to look at the desolate Dunkerron moun* 
 tains, the birthplace of the Inny, and the cradle of Derriaiia and 
 Elaineane, and wonder whether Fortune or the rains would bring us 
 to either, late in the coming autumn. I have often spoken of our 
 boat and men ; to-day they were paid ; thirty shillings per week 
 for all ; but to this must be added whisky and lunch such is the 
 custom here. 
 
 Mr. J. P. Nunn. proprietor of the Lake Hotel, is willing and quite 
 
SALMON AXOLING IN IRELAND. 39 
 
 able to make liis guests most comfortable at 1)/. per month up to 
 May. Those terms may seem a little high, but we must bear in 
 mind that, unless a man has the constitution of a buffalo, wet, cold, 
 and hard work require comfort ; that the season is very short, and 
 the accommodation of such a house incalculable to the tourist. 
 
 The present lessee of the fishery, with the most far-seeing liberality, 
 allows strangers to angle on the river below the weirs in fact, he 
 lays open to them his whole run of fish. All he asks in return is, 
 that any early salmon taken by the rod shall be placed in the 
 'pond," or, if retained, be paid for at market price. So he gives all 
 that a tme sportsman can desire, freely, and only requires that his 
 property and interests may not suffer for his kindness. 
 
 Once more we are at Killorglin, on our way to Limerick via 
 Killamey. Here I once asked a friend (a man of extraordinary 
 singleness of purpose) whether he had seen this view, or examined 
 that ruin. He replied, ''I came to see salmon, not archaeological 
 curiosities," Many men, however, have many minds, and the reader 
 might like to see some of these, though my friend did not. 
 
 The traces of antiquity scattered over the county are very 
 numerous. I do not pretend to be deeply learned in such matters ; 
 nevertheless, if wearied by hard work, or brought to a stand by bad 
 weather, I would pay a visit to the Ogham inscriptions, in the vicinity 
 of Kilmelchedor Church, near Smerwick Harbour. Prae-Roman 
 prae-Christian older than history, older even than tradition these 
 inscribed stones have still the power to cast a strange spell on the 
 beholder. I do not understand the characters, and doubt whether 
 I should enjoy them half so much if I did. The key is said to be 
 found, but to me this revivification of dead symbols seems unsatis- 
 factory. Could we really get at the truth, what should we learn ? 
 Would these mystic lines speak of a life of triumph, or a death of 
 fame ; of love enjoyed, or affection slighted ? AVho can say ? The 
 characters, however, stand eloquent in silence. Well may we moralise 
 with the banished duke 
 
 This is no flattery ; these are counsellors 
 That feelingly persuade me what I am. 
 
40 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 Thanks to tlie rail, we are in Limerick. The new town has 
 nothing remarkably new about it, and the old town on King's Island 
 looks as dismal and dilapidated as if, since the days of Ptolemy, 
 Dane and Norman, Edward Bruce and Ireton, William and Ginkel, 
 had been battering at it all day long. Perhaps severe recent study 
 had soured my temper, for I had just finished a huge tome touching 
 the Shannon. The subject had there been considered in all its 
 branches ^historically, poetically, botanically, mythologically, tra- 
 ditionally, agriculturally, prophetically. It had been regarded as a 
 means of traffic and a means of salmon. Start not, reader ! If I 
 gained nothing else from the perusal, my own sufferings have at least 
 taught me tenderness and compassion towards others. This morning, 
 however, we feel so much better so much less bilious, in fact that 
 we are able to invite our friends to a walking party to see a hook 
 made, and if possible a 501b. salmon killed, at Doonass. 
 
 Amongst all the innocent enjoyments this beautiful world affords, 
 I know none comparable to the delight of a new place. The sun 
 seems more bright, the air more charming, than elsewhere ; and even 
 common things are invested with new sensations emphatically new, 
 for there is nothing old or effete about them. Travelling, as a boy, 
 was my passion ; it is a passion still. It has never become flat, stale, 
 or unprofitable ; and all it ever was, it is now. 
 
 In this city there is much to see, much to please. The lace manu- 
 factory is well worth a visit. I am sure it was beautiful. I know 
 it was dear. The quays, too, are full of life and novelty. The river 
 had been most magnanimously forgiven, and we did all justice to its 
 grandeur and beauty. Full of history (the guide-book was in our 
 pocket) we strolled over King's Island, fully appreciating the present 
 as compared with the past. Of course we went to the top of the 
 Cathedral tower. Below lay the city, every street, lane, and court 
 spread out like a map. Eastward the river came broad and shining 
 to the sea ; westward it still rolled on, widening as it went. The 
 rich lowlands fell off on either side, leaving a broader channel, till 
 the half -transparent mist so mingled land and water, that the eye 
 strove in vain to decide where the meadows ended and the ocean 
 
SALMON ANOLINQ IN IRELAND. 41 
 
 reigned supreme. All this, and mucli more, we saw from the tower. 
 Getting up was an easy affair, but coming down was altogether a new 
 sensation. I would not wish my worst enemy a worse cramp. I 
 could have outroared Caliban. 
 
 Before starting for Doonass we must pay a visit to O'Shauglinessy. 
 A fortnight ago, sizes and pattern hooks had been sent to him, and 
 the order must now be called for. K you never saw the process, 
 listen, and learn how to make one. We climbed the rickety and 
 dirty stairs, and in an upper room found the old artiste hard at 
 work. 
 
 On a table before him lay several fine triangular files, a few pairs 
 of pliers, a piece of boxwood, and a tray divided into compartments, 
 containing small bars of Swedish iron, of sizes suitable for hooks of 
 every number. Now he takes one of the bars and cuts out the barb ; 
 then turning the iron in his hand, shapes the back. Again he turns 
 the half -finished hook, and carefully completes the barb, giving it a 
 spherical point as fine as a darning needle. Lastly, he puts on his 
 glasses, and carefully examines what has been done, adds a few 
 finishing touches, and with the pliers gives the exact shape accord- 
 ing to pattern, remarking, with a severe glance at the luckless 
 innovator, *' Some gentlemen are a little self-willed, and like to 
 spoil a good thing by their improvements." Nothing now remains 
 to be done but the tempering. I have used these hooks for many 
 years, and have killed salmon with every size, the two largest and 
 two smallest excepted ; as one fracture only occurred, I feel bound 
 to bear testimony to their excellence. The price is high, but when 
 it is remembered they can be used season after season, in a series of 
 new flies, they are cheap at any money. 
 
 Truly the Shannon is something like a river. " Its length and 
 size are unexampled in any island in the world of similar extent." 
 It rises in Lough Allen, runs a race of 240 miles, and is navigable 
 for small craft till within a few miles of its source. Relatively to 
 the magnitude of the country it enriches and beautifies, it seems like 
 a giant bom from a dwarf like the dinornis compared with the Qgg 
 from which it sprung. Large as it is, mighty as are its lakes, innu- 
 
42 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 merable as are its tributaries, I fancy our good Salmon Act found it 
 bad enough, The labyrinth of stake-nets in the lower river, draught- 
 nets, bulging, and angling, had cruelly injured poor Mr. Salmon's 
 prospects. Now what the river can produce we shall see. In five 
 years' time, I believe, if men have one grain of common sense, for 
 every ten fish brought to market we shall have fifty, besides leaving 
 pretty pickings for honest men. 
 
 Tliere stands Castle Connell, nestling amidst demesnes and pleasure 
 grounds, a very paradise for anglers. The glorious rapids, ever chant- 
 ing the same sweet lay, sing to it night and day now piano, now 
 forte till with the shout of ten thousand voices, they thunder over 
 the ''Leap of Doonass." 
 
 From its source to the sea the Shannon is said to have a fall of 
 only 150 feet, more than half of which occurs between this place and 
 the city. These beautiful casts being all in private hands, or leased, 
 especially to the rod, you and I have nothing to do with them at 
 present, beyond envying a gallant officer, an especial friend of some 
 of my especial friends, labouring with his usual energy. We should 
 have liked to have heard his recent experiences, but as it is quite 
 as practicable to carry on a conversation across Niagara as across 
 these rapids, we did not attempt it. We watched him for some 
 time, but saw nothing of the fifty-pounder. 
 
 These rapids extend for miles, with here and there spots of sur- 
 passing excellence. What will they be in 1870 ? 
 
 We must leave Limerick and Mr. Cruise's comfortable hospitium 
 early to-morrow, and try to find our way to Sligo, for we have much 
 to do before the middle of May* I certainly could not make out our 
 route satisfactorily that night. If the reader wishes to learn exactbj 
 how we got there the next day, I cannot tell him. At this moment 
 I retain a general impression, that between going up and down, 
 backwards and forwards, we wandered in an irregular manner over 
 about hcUf the island, and that is all I know about it. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 43 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Our HobbiofjJMorning Walk Sligo Mathovv tho Groat The Drought begins 
 to toll Waters of the Neighbourhood Going a-fishing Lough Gill The 
 Angler's Duty Advice to a dear Countryman Off for Lough Molvin. 
 
 March 3L 
 Every man keeps a liobby some men have a whole stableful so 
 I have as good a right to such an animal as my neighbour. 
 
 In all works on horsemanship, this humble quadruped is sadly 
 neglected. No writer has yet thought it worth his while to devote 
 even one chapter to its use and abuse, its treatment, management, 
 or mismanagement. Some day, when I supply this deficiency in 
 our literature, the following rules will be strongly laid down, and 
 considerably amplified : ride your nag gently, and not too 
 frequently ; avoid splashing your neighbour, and never wilfully 
 gallop over him. 
 
 Our present hobby is ' peep-of-day." To compare one's rising 
 with the sun would be absurd ; moreover, it would be taking a 
 monstrous liberty with that heavenly body. Fancy a poor ^vretch, 
 one day strong and gay, the next sick and sad, challenging him who 
 of old was worshipped as a god, to a race for the year. He would 
 lose to a dead certainty. However, I always try to imitate his getting 
 up as well as I may, and am now taking an early walk to the nearest 
 high ground to see all I can. In the face of my own rules, my friend 
 must not be worried into early rising ; I can only give him an occa- 
 sional hint, and set him a good example ; one hour of sunrise such 
 as this is worth half the day. 
 
 Far away to the west and the north, stretches the broad Atlantic, 
 sparkling in the morning sun ; below me is Sligo Bay and Harbour, 
 through whose sandbanks and shoals a steamer is carefully threading 
 her way. The town lies sleeping on the old waterwom level, and to 
 the east is the lake, second only to Killarney in beauty. The sun 
 
44 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 looks full on the clear purple water, warming into life tlie insect 
 world, and casting here and there a deep shadow from mountain or 
 island. Water birds are chattering, making their morning toilet, and 
 giving good morrow to each other ; whilst many circles, widening as 
 they go, show that the trout are at breakfast. 
 
 These are some of the things which can be seen in the morning, 
 you lazy lie-abed. If you heard more, you would only yawn, turn 
 on the other side, and bid me begone. But to you who possess a 
 kindred taste, I will say stop, stop, or my hobby will be ridden to 
 death. 
 
 I walked home through the thriving, well-built country town, but 
 looked in vain for some monument recording Father Mathew's 
 labours and the public appreciation of them. Here, if anywhere, 
 one might have expected to see "a statue of gold on a pillar of 
 porphyry" raised in his honour ; but no such thing. The good 
 father preached here the great crusade of 1840 ; nearly two-thirds 
 of the Catholic population flocked to his standard, took oaths of 
 service and fidelity, and better still kept them. What easy work 
 Peter the Hermit had, compared with Mathew the Great! The 
 former had only to launch semi-barbarians (fond of fighting for the 
 mere pleasure of the thing, and doubly fond when there was anything 
 to be got by it) against better men than themselves ; but our gallant 
 soldier had to fight against habit and inclination, confirmed by older 
 habits and inclinations in father and grandfather, back to the days of 
 Noah. Good man, true priest, he has long gone to his rest. No 
 cross on his breast, no palm in his hand, show that he reached the 
 Golden City. No matter : 
 
 His bones are dust, his good sword is rust, 
 But his soul is with the saints, we trust. 
 
 The first thing I saw on entering the street where our hotel stood 
 was a short, stout fellow in close conference with Willie, who, the 
 next instant, dived into the passage. He had secured a boatman, 
 and ^was gone to boil the inevitable egg, which he not only would 
 dress, but bring up, to the great scandal and wrath of all waiters. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 45 
 
 Lough Gill runs through the town by a nan-owing creek, called 
 the river Garvogue ; here, an hour later, we embarked, and rowed 
 away to the broader reaches above, passing a long line of poor cabins. 
 In all old towns, poverty dwells by the water, and Sligo is quite in 
 the fashion. 
 
 The drought which distinguished the present season began now to 
 make its effects felt, in the temperature and lowness of the rivers. 
 These effects, however, must, of course, be greatly modified by local 
 peculiarities. Streams with a large outfall will feel it least. So 
 far as spring angling is concerned, the early run of fish (before 
 February 1) is certain to give a reasonable stock to the rivers, and 
 the high water and freshes of that and the succeeding month will, 
 in nine seasons out of ten, constantly add to the stock. 
 
 Should such a river flow from a lake, the want of water will not 
 be felt as an inconvenience, the fish being certain to run into it, and 
 consequently a long spell of dry weather will interfere less with 
 angling in spring than in summer. Nevertheless, a drought is our 
 greatest enemy, except perhaps in such rivers as the Erne and 
 Blackwater below the weirs, where it must be greater than I have 
 ever seen it, to injure sport materially. 
 
 In Lough Melvin, which will be our next station, its effects must 
 be more felt, for although the Bundoran river the little Drowse 
 (the word is spelt as pronounced), enters the sea in a narrow and 
 sufficient stream, yet, as it approaches the lake, the shallows in dry 
 weather are so low, as to offer an almost impassable barrier to the 
 farther advance of the salmon. In such circumstances they have no 
 alternative but to drop back into the deeps above the village, lie like 
 logs at the bottom, and pray to Jupiter for rain. 
 
 Instead of dragging out the reader this morning, to see only 
 perhaps one or two fish killed, it appears more advisable to devote ag 
 much of this paper as possible to a desciiption of the waters of the 
 neighbourhood, and thus give him the means of performing this 
 most agreeable part of an angler's business for himself. 
 
 Sligo forms excellent head-quarters for the tourist. He may take 
 his ease at his inn, or, if economically disposed, can secure comfort- 
 
46 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 able lodgings and make himself at liome. This is my plan, when- 
 ever such a plan is possible. Then the lake is at the door, and this 
 is no small advantage. 
 
 Five miles west of the town is the village of Ballysadere, through 
 which flows a river of the same name. This stream is formed by 
 the imion of the river Awinmore and the Unshin or Arrow, near the 
 town of CoUooney, and falling over a ledge of rocks, which crosses 
 its entire bed, thunders into Ardnaglass harbour. Here the angler 
 may look for sport in the late spring and summer freshes. 
 
 What shall we say of Lough Arrow ? Why, simply this : that the 
 man who cannot be satisfied with this sport in April and May, 
 either with fly or troll, and will not laud it to the skies in June, when 
 the green drakes hover over it like a cloud, must indeed be hard to 
 please. 
 
 Lough Tult, imbedded amid precipices, abounds with trout ; 
 Lough Easkey and Lough Glencar well deserve a visit. If to these 
 attractions be added the fact that he is on the high road to the 
 Drowse, Lough Melvin, and the glorious Erne, I think the tourist 
 will admit that Sligo forms a centre of operations not to be 
 despised. 
 
 Should our friend be a botanist, Benbulben will cheer him : if he 
 be painter or poet, he will feel a still deeper delight on the breezy 
 summit of that noble mountain ; and, on his way home, should he 
 pace the ruined cloisters of the fine old Dominican abbey, I doubt 
 not he will return a better and a happier man. 
 
 We have reached Lough Gill at last, and are gliding along its 
 southern and most beautiful shore. If the lake looked lovely in the 
 early morning, it looked not less lovely now, as we stole over its 
 curling waters, between islands of all sizes, beautiful with rock and 
 wood and shadow. 
 
 The lake, though by no means in the first rank for size, is yet six 
 miles in length by two in breadth, and boasts twenty islands, the 
 largest of which (Church Island) reckons 42 acres, and Cottage 
 Island 14 acres ; both are inhabited, which must prove of immense 
 importance to the hungry angler, Our broad-shouldered guide 
 
SALMON ANGLINO IN IRELAND. 47 
 
 declared the fly to bo " the thing wherewith to catch the conscience 
 of the king," so we tried the scarlet, donkey, parson, green, olive, 
 claret, and fiery-brown and did nothing. 
 
 As each was sliown in turn for his approbation, the stont man 
 shook his head oracularly, and observed, *' It might do, yer honour," 
 intimating clearly that in his opinion, unless the salmon were hope- 
 lessly lunatic, not a tail should we see, and 1 am bound to say he 
 was right. 
 
 Perhaps thinking our obstinacy sufficiently punished, the honest 
 fellow drew out from the depths of his coat pocket an ancient and 
 tattered song book, from between the leaves of which he produced a 
 ragged and faded fly, of no definite colour, having very much the 
 appearance of a decayed gentleman who had known better days, and 
 to this I added a pair of dark small flies. After this our fortune in 
 some sort began to mend, and we soon killed a nice dish of trout ; 
 still not a salmon could we see. In this extremity, Willie proposed 
 a spoon and minnow, which were presently spinning over each 
 quarter of the boat. 
 
 Passing Culmore Point we had a smart run. The fish felt light- 
 too light, I thought, for a salmon, though the boatman of course 
 was positive, as boatmen should be. Whatever he was, he gave us 
 the slip ; but to this day, no doubt, Mr. Gallagher maintains that, 
 ''Bedad, the obstinate gintleman hooked a splendid salmon 
 wid a spoon off that Pint divil a lie I'm telling ye." Presently, 
 however, near Church Island, we did hook a salmon. There 
 was no doubt about it this time, for in five-and-twenty minutes 
 we had the satisfaction to see a neat thirteen-pounder crimped, 
 *' making the green one red," as he soaked and stiffened over our 
 stem. 
 
 What would it avail to say that we gave the lake little rest that 
 Dromohair, Connoi-more Stone, The Eidge, Pigeon Point, The Hollow, 
 Culmore Point, 0"Rorke's Castle. The Shell-house Shore, Church 
 Island, and Castle Point, were tried again, and again ? Few readers 
 would be much the wiser, and when they visit the lake I promise 
 that Pat Gallagher shall faithfully exhibit them all. 
 
48 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 After working steadily for the next five days, sometimes with 
 salmon and trout flies, at other times with the troll, we bagged six more 
 fresh fish and about forty small lake trout. The salmon were of fair 
 average size, from 81b. to 111b., none coming up to our number one. 
 
 A gentleman's first duty is to ask permission. I avoid names, 
 since even those whose whose daily acts to strangers are all kindness 
 might not desire such publicity. I may mention, however, that 
 application to the courteous owners of Newton Manor, Hazlewood, 
 Killery, and Olaveragh House will make the angler a freeman of the 
 lake. My dear friend and countryman, the recipient of such liberality, 
 when yon go home I hope you won't put bad boys in the stocks for 
 looking after your roach and dace. 
 
 At the end of our week we packed up, and drove merrily away for 
 Lough Melvin. Before evening we sat down to dinner in the unpre- 
 tending hospitium of Garrison; watched the sun go down too large 
 and red for our wishes, yet went to bed to dream of fresh triumphs 
 on new fields. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Lough Melvin A Week at Garrison What the Drought did Permission 
 Irish FoUowei- Advantages as a Station Head Waters Inhabitants of the 
 Lake The Great Middle Class Trying our Luck De Omnibus Rebus 
 Leaf from an old MS. We cry for Mercy. 
 
 April 3. 
 If a man could ever hope to find Peace in this troublesome world, 
 he might reasonably expect to meet that sweet saint somewhere about 
 Garrison. Preaching night and day, the gentle lake is for ever and 
 for ever giving good advice, mingling with our waking thoughts and 
 slumberous fancies. The mountains are like sober " friends in 
 council," and the islands ought to have at least one hennit, to preach 
 a homily, De solitudine. 
 
 The power to wander over this beautiful world, with free limbs 
 
gAX^MOlf ANGLING IN IRELAND. 49 
 
 and a light heart, is an inexpressible delight. It seems to bring 
 back the innocent patriarchal days, when the strife and turmoil 
 of busy life were well nigh unknown, and now, after the lapse of 
 thousands of years, men still turn to the old nomadic life, as to a 
 normal state ; and in after years remember their too brief wander- 
 ings as the brightest period of their existence. 
 
 William Scott, the straightforward and intelligent proprietor of 
 the hotel, shook his head mournfully, when consulted as to our 
 prospects. The di'ought formed the burden of his song in fact, 
 made up the greater part of it, and, like the ancient chorus, he 
 denounced all kinds of disagreeable things. " Of course the first 
 run," he said, '* was safe and snug enough ; the high waters of 
 February had increased the stock ; nevertheless he wished them 
 fresher and in better spirits ; for his part, he liked to see the 
 orathers fierce as blazes tearing away like mad ; but there was no 
 help for it, and gintlemen must do the best they could." Then came 
 the argument. Latterly, few or no fish were able to pass the shallows 
 on the upper portion of the River Drowse ; in short, the supply was 
 cut off, and we were likely to be starved out. However, there was 
 balm in Gilead, for we, being early in the field, might hope to fatten 
 where later comers would run short. 
 
 On the evening of our arrival we found letters containing most 
 kind permission from the three noblemen and gentlemen to whom the 
 shores of the lake belong, which, we may add, is never refused to 
 strangers who apply for it. Moreover, Archy Cathcart and his mate 
 were selected as our boatmen, at the reasonable rate of 24s. per 
 week, and hardier fellows or more zealous anglers it would be 
 difficult to find. 
 
 Your Irish attendant is a man sni generis ; at least, there is nothing 
 like him in our own land. Compare him with an English game- 
 keeper be that functionary land rat or water rat Pat is as much 
 like him in body and mind as he is in dress, and in this particular 
 there is no great degi'ee of comparison. Our well-fed friend in neat 
 velveteen, gaiters, and boots, stalks solenmly after you, as though he 
 had reluctantly made up his mind to do a disagreeable duty. He 
 
50 A YEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 shows not the smallest interest or pleasure in the business neither 
 exults at your success nor commiserates your failure, and pockets his 
 half guinea with a silent touch of his hat and an aspect of being the 
 most ill-used man in Christendom. 
 
 Now look on this picture of rags, hearty interest, indefatigable 
 zeal, and active good humour, all for two shillings a day. If he 
 cannot show you sport (and you may take your corporal oath he has 
 done his best), he will tell you what might, could, would, should, or 
 ought to be done some of it truth, more, probably truth embellished. 
 But with all his failings and poor Pat is only a man after all ^he is 
 the best and pleasantest attendant, through heat or cold, hunger or 
 thirst, in good fortune or evil fortune, that can be found out of his 
 own tight little island. 
 
 With your florin in his hand, he bids ''yer honor the best of 
 sleap," says something hopeful about to-morrow, and with his 
 duddeen in his mouth, and very little under his waistcoat, talks by 
 his bit of smouldering turf for the hour together of what you did, 
 he did, and they did. 
 
 Archy and his mate have been standing this half-hour under the 
 windows with rods and gaff. There, too, is Willie, critically inspect- 
 ing the boat, hammer and bradawl in hand ; one of his eccentricities 
 being a delusion (of course it was a delusion) that all the craft which 
 float on Irish lakes required repairs, and that it was his special mission 
 to execute the same. 
 
 As a station Garrison is perfect, all the best casts being close at 
 hand. No comfort can compensate for want of proximity, and here 
 the one and the other go hand in hand. 
 
 I have little to say about * the waters of the neighbourhood," as 
 they have scarcely any connection with the angler, if we except the 
 river Drowse, the outlet of the lake. 
 
 Loughs Macnean and Melvin stretch along the north-eastern 
 boundary of the county of Leitrim, separating it from Fermanagh, 
 in which, however, they may be said to lie partly. These lakes are 
 connected by the Kilcoo river, and, with Macnean, form the head 
 waters and chief breeding grounds of the district. I never fished 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 51 
 
 either, as they were not in order duiing any of my visits, but believe 
 they are of very small accomit till the late autumn freshes ; at all 
 events the Kilcoo can hardly be of importance until the grilse arrive 
 in July, nor even then, except after heavy rains. Lough Macnean 
 is a good-sized piece of water, having a circumference of ten or eleven 
 miles. 
 
 Spring salmon, like early spring flowers, are only to be found in 
 favoured localities. Lough Melvin being, of course, one of these. 
 Besides the Salmo Salar, the lake contains other inhabitants. Not 
 to mention '' the swinish multitude," such as eels, perch, and the 
 like, it boasts (over and above the aristocratic visitors drawn hither 
 for change of scene and au') a large number of resident gentry, of 
 three orders the gi-eat laker, gillaroo, and brown trout. There is 
 also said to be another class, shy, modest, and retiring, by no means 
 easily brought under public notice, the pullan, or fresh-water her- 
 , ring. These fish, I was informed, are tolerably abundant here, and 
 in Lough Neagh, and are only taken by netting. To the best of my 
 belief, the large lake trout are not trolled for with any system or 
 perseverance ; still they are not unfrequently taken in a chance 
 kind of way, as the angler who is not too lazy to change the fly foi- 
 the troll, passes from one side of the lake to the other. Should any 
 one, however, diligently cultivate the acquaintance of this great 
 middle class, I doubt not he would gather round him a very nume- 
 rous circle. That they run large here is certain, for I saw one in 
 the hands of a Ballyshannon professional, which he told me was 
 171b., and I am sure he was that weight, if not more. 
 
 The gillaroo rise well at the fly, but are far smaller than the pre- 
 ceding. I do not remember ever seeing one exceeding 41b. Highly 
 favoured are these creatures, combining as they do beauty with good- 
 ness ; then, they may eat what they choose ! They might begin 
 with fish, and end with pastry and cheese, without being the worse 
 for it. Oh that excellent gizzard of theirs ; as a digestive apparatus, 
 it could convert tenpenny nails into chyle. 
 
 But it is time to leave off '' talking shop," and be up and doing, 
 for a west wind is curling the lake, and the boatmen, together with 
 
 B 2 
 
52 A YEAR OP WBERTY ) OH, 
 
 our prime minister, are waiting on the strand, doubtless wondering 
 what has come over " the master." 
 
 We pulled direct to one of the best casts -the high rocky bluff 
 on the eastern extremity of the lake where we remained for some 
 hours trying it over and over with fresh changes, and were not dis- 
 satisfied with hooking two fish, one of which was landed, and weighed 
 a little under 101b. 
 
 Shifting the ground, we continued our pleasant toil by the rushes 
 under the Priest's house, and then round the pretty bay immediately 
 above. These throws (the best on the lake) proving blank, we 
 stretched over to the north side, and, keeping slow way on the boat, 
 fished the rocky shore as we proceeded. 
 
 Finding the fly unavailing, the troll was set to work, and as we 
 came abreast of a bold bluff, half a mile or so below Bilbury Island, 
 had the good fortune to run and kill a small salmon of 6 Jib. From 
 the island we worked our way home with small flies, taking three 
 or four gillaroo, and a score of pretty little brown trout. This, as 
 far as salmon were concerned, proved the best day of our week's 
 sojourn. Instead of wearying the reader with hopes disappointed or 
 toil rewarded, it will be better to speak of matters more generally, 
 and thus enable him to gain a few facts for his own use. Lough 
 Melvin is by no means the worst of Irish waters ; the station is con- 
 venient, and the salmon and grilse fishing generally good. The 
 spring fish run from 7lb. to 111b., though of course these figures are 
 not to be taken absolutely, as larger and smaller are occasionally 
 killed. The gillaroo, if nothing better is to be done, are always to 
 be taken on any day suitable for angling ; and systematic trolling 
 would produce good results, as I hope to show ; and for smaller 
 game, the shores yield plenty of bog-trout, and, to the best of my 
 belief, charr. In the spring and summer there is something to be 
 done in the lower part of the Drowse ; and during the late autinnn 
 spates, excellent sport with salmon, grilse, and gillaroo is to be 
 found. 
 
 Not a hundred years ago, after, as I thought, winding up the 
 season in the Bosses, we chanced to reach Bundoran on the 1st of 
 
BALMON ANGLmO tN IRELAND. 53 
 
 October, intending to botanise from thence to Benbulben. But it 
 happened that the little river was clearing, after prolonged rains ; 
 the lake was high, and of course so was the Drowse. Under these 
 circumstances, if another rare specimen had never been added to my 
 hortus siccus, I should not have cared. So I unpacked a rod, 
 engaged an old fellow as guide, whom I subsequently learned was 
 the very worst in all Ireland, and set off for Mellinaleck Bridge. 
 There was, at that state of water, a lovely stream just below the 
 bridge, where we commenced with an olive ; half-way down, I found 
 him, and a capital salmon he was. From thence we worked up the 
 water. Before evening, the basket contained three stout fish, two 
 grilse, thirteen gillaroo, some brown trout, and, if my memory is 
 correct, two or three white trout. 
 
 This leaf from an old MS. may seiTe as an illustration of the 
 remark that during the late autumn spates good sport may be had on 
 the Drowse. I do not pretend to be an authority on this subject, as 
 my experience is too limited. I only visited the river once or twice 
 in each of the many happy seasons spent on the Erae, seasons which 
 have a pleasant place in my memory, recalling many kindnesses and 
 many friends. I feel bound, however, to say, that the visits above 
 referred to seldom proved satisfactory ; perhaps they were ill-timed ; 
 perhaps all my luck had ended with the first speculation ; there ought, 
 however, to have been ample compensation, as I figured in " some- 
 body's " black books a long time after, and was always considered a 
 defaulter from the tranquil pursuit of botany and the picturesque. 
 
 In the next chapter we shall go back to the lake and narrate our 
 small experience of the Salmo famosus. I hope, however, no very 
 learned person will expose me for calling the large trout of Lough 
 Melvin ''names;" I care little what their scientific appellation may 
 be ; ignorance profound as mine is hardly worth so large a waste of 
 wisdom. 
 
54: A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Why certain People are neglected The Lake Islands Woodcocks and Ducks 
 Trolling Our Last Day History of the Week The Camp is broken up, 
 and we march on Derry Willie goes Home Lough Swilly. 
 
 April 7. 
 I WISH to know how you, sir, would like to be called "fierce," " lusty," 
 "cniel," "crust," "surly," "insolent," "huffish," and "headstrong;" 
 yet all these comfortable words belong to the adjective Ferox, and 
 my friends in the lake object to such language, and beg me to say 
 so. To remark to one of these gentlemen who had just made his 
 best bow on the floor of my boat, " I rejoice sincerely to see you, 
 Mr. S. Ferox," would doubtless be equally correct and equally 
 insulting. " Do as you would be done by " is a favourite maxim of 
 mine ; unfortimately, memory is defective, and it goes out of one's 
 head sometimes when it should not. 
 
 The reason these fine fish are not more looked after is this the 
 society they move in is too good for them. 
 
 If you said to me, " Look, there is President Johnson, and the 
 gentleman half a pace behind him is his secretary, Captain Bobadil, 
 a man who must have distinguished himself at the bloody battle of 
 Tiptree Farm, had he not been knocked down, out of hand as it were, 
 by a nigger at the commencement of the fight " ^if you said this, 
 I should pull off my hat, do homage to a great and self -built man, 
 and probably forget all about the pseudo-general half a pace behind. 
 No doubt Captain B. is a sparkling luminary, but then unfortunately 
 he is too near the sun. 
 
 In fact, he is remarkably like our poor friend Splendidus. I see, 
 my dear sir, a very proper amount of virtuous indignation on your 
 handsome countenance at this hero-worship ; yet, if you were at 
 Lough Melvin, I'll be bound you would say, " Hang your trout, and 
 
SALMON ANOLINO TN inKLAND. 55 
 
 hurroo for the salmon." But no, you could not be vulgar. You 
 would lay a hand on your waistcoat, and murmur softly " Believe 
 me, my dear Mrs. Salmon, yours faithfully, till death " 
 
 And quite right too. But most vows are conditional. For the last 
 four days I have fished slaved would be more correct from 9 a.m. 
 to 7 p.m., with certainly not ten minutes' rest, and for these forty 
 misspent hours have only two fish to show. Well, there is no 
 knowing what a man may do when he is vexed. I am vexed, and 
 shall go trouting. This was resolved on last night, but there was 
 a little difficulty about bait, which we overcame in this wise. Archy 
 and I set out in the twilight to look for a boy, and soon found one. 
 The negotiation was left in his hands : " An-ah, Patsy," to a shoeless 
 mass of rags, " come here. Is it a throut ye'd know, if ye seen it 
 as long as this ?" Here Archy marked the exact length of the animal 
 required, with the end of his pipe, on the knuckle of his forefinger. 
 Patsy felt hurt by the implied doubt, so he did not answer, except 
 by grinning from ear to ear. " Hurry, ye young villin ; hurry off 
 wid ye at the fust light, and be shure ye come back before the 
 master's up ; sorra a cross yell get else, and Holy Peter, won't I lash 
 ye ; mind, I'm telling." At the conclusion of these energetic 
 instructions, Patsy made his bow and departed, to meditate on the 
 doctrine of rewards and punishments so forcibly laid down. 
 
 The young scapegi-ace returned in time to win his sixpence, and 
 escape a "lashing" and brought twelve or thirteen baits, so with 
 
 these we started The reader knows, of course, he is at 
 
 Lough Melvin, but, from any description of mine, he has not " the 
 least idea in life " what sort of place that may be, except a kind of 
 debatable water between the counties Leitrim and Fennanagh. 
 
 Wonderfully lovely is the lake with its sparkliug wavelets breaking 
 in the sunshine, and its islands tinted with the green and pink, grey 
 and yellow, of the coming spiing. How charming these little worlds 
 look in the undress of this morning of their immortal lives ; nor is 
 space wanting, for our lake is rather more than seven miles Jong by 
 three broad. Of course it is not a first-class water, for, comjjared 
 with its neighbour Lough Erne, with Lough Neagh, Lough Corrib, 
 
56 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OB, 
 
 and Lough Mask, it is but a baby even as Gulliver amongst the 
 Brobdignags. Nevertheless I wished it no larger this morning. 
 
 The plan proposed was to pull in and out along the east and north 
 shores, and " do" the island on our way back. Now this aiTange- 
 ment had one or two advantages first, we should go over all the 
 best salmon lodges, and by keeping well on their outer edges were as 
 likely as elsewhere to find Splendidus at home ; and next, by dodging 
 off the Fermanagh side, our baits would be trailed over all the ground 
 which promised best. 
 
 Near the Point we soon had a run. The fish felt heavy on the rod, 
 but, after two or three weighty lunges, broke away. Of course, it 
 was my fault ; it always is the angler's fault in the eyes of his 
 zealous attendant. " Fortune had deserted us that day for good and 
 all." "Not a taste of luck should we have ; not the least in life 
 and him the first!" 
 
 The prophecy proved false, as abreast of ''the rushes," rather 
 outside the cast, we had a second run, and landed a fine stout trout 
 of 6lb. This was quick work, and promised well for our last day. 
 The blind goddess, however, deserted us for the time, leaving us to 
 prove by perseverance that we deserved her favours. In the middle 
 of the lake, when the sun was far in the west, we again got a run. 
 This time Willie laid his pipe carefully between the knees of the 
 boat, as if he thought it might be some time before he wanted it again. 
 
 In pure love and charity we had shipped a new hand, who expressed 
 himself *'kilt entirely " by setting potatoes. Nobody wanted him ; 
 but I was unwilling to refuse the poor fellow a day's amusement. 
 He was the queerest, most tattered, and most impulsive party ever 
 seen. Watching the fish like a hawk himself nearly as wild he 
 sprang on the beam just in time to catch a glimpse of Splendidus, as 
 he reeled over on the surface at least fifty yards off, in a very 
 Intoxicated manner. 
 
 '' Holy Mary ! what a baste. Hand us the gaff quick there I 
 Is it deaf that ye are ?" 
 
 With freezing dignity, without moving a muscle, the gentleman 
 thus addressed made answdr i 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 57 
 
 " I land for the master !" 
 
 No wliit affronted, tlie excitable party by this time was about on 
 a new tack. 
 
 ' Hark till it !" meaning perhaps the wheel ; '' he's at it agin, as 
 mad as blazes ; hurroo, hurroo! Nicholas mend him." Whether 
 this devout ejaculation had any effect on his wild courses, or whether 
 he was done in the regular way, seems uncertain ; at any rate, it was 
 the last despairing rush, and when he again rose near us, on a short 
 taut line, Willie executed him secwiduvi ariem, with a sidelong glance 
 at his master, which seemed to say, " I've got him this time, though 
 I did make a bungle at CaiTa." 
 
 That there were scores of stouter individuals in the lake cannot 
 be doubted, yet the present one gave lO^lb. on Salter's balance. 
 
 Nor was Fortune yet weary of us, for she gave us another three- 
 and-a-half-pounder, and a small recently-run salmon of 71b. Thus 
 ended our week at Ganison ; five fish and two good lakers were not 
 much to boast of ^may I never do worse. 
 
 The cock shooting in the Marquis of Ely's islands is something 
 marvellous to Saxon minds. The ducks are now building or laying ; 
 household cares probably keep them at home, for we see little of 
 them. In July and August, however, the long strings of babies 
 paddling about after their mammas show there is no fear of the race 
 dying out. 
 
 That stupid almanac says it is Friday, April 7th. My ticket for 
 the Bush commences on the 15th, but do what I will it is impossible 
 to be there on that day. There is Lough Fern for a week ; then two 
 or three days will be lost on the way ; however, we shall reach Deny 
 to-morrow by noon, and crossing Lough Swilly gain Eathmelton 
 before night, and no man can do more. 
 
 Brave old Deny ! seated on your hill, and crowned with your grey 
 cathedral spire, you look like a queen and a very sensible queen, 
 too. There is no nonsense or frivolity about you. You have accepted 
 your position, and feel that even Gosnell and Co. cannot make old 
 men or old cities young or new. Rowland's Kalydor cannot preserve 
 our bloom and smoothness. " The United Semce " will not give to 
 
58 A TEAR OF LIBEETI ; OR, 
 
 hair youthful gloss or beauty; the wrinkles are there; and for old 
 cities the only cosmetics are fire and powder, too costly for general 
 use. 
 
 Londonderry has strong claims on the stranger, and as you and I 
 have a reputation for paying our debts, we will stroll round the 
 ramparts, which, in fact, will be giving an I U for the amount. I 
 wish my tailor's little bill were as easily disposed of. 
 
 Externally, at least, the walls of Derry are as sound as when 
 Hamilton, defeated and disheartened, fell back towards Strabane. 
 Doubtless the good citizens are proud of their city, and take all care 
 of their time-honoured ramparts. Had there been rents in the old 
 garment, so carefully were they darned that I could not find them 
 out. Here, in the principal battery, stands a handsome pillar crowned 
 with a statue of the dauntless Rector of Donaghmore, and below are 
 the old guns his hands pointed so often against the foe ; his especial 
 pet, *' roaring Meg," seeming still able to shout as defiantly as ever. 
 But ladies, we have heard, are adepts in getting up ; so perhaps 
 "Meg " is neither so sound nor young as she looked. 
 
 It is a spirit-stirring place, this old battery, for here, in the plea- 
 sant month of April, commenced a sensation drama, which has 
 enjoyed a long run, even till to-day. Faint with famine, weary with 
 wounds and watching, dwindled to a handful, the defenders of the 
 maiden city stood where I now stand, in an evening of July, wildly 
 looking for succour long delayed. The sermon was over ; not one of 
 your fifteen-minute affairs, but a good old-fashioned article, with its 
 "twenty-thirdly," "lastly," "to conclude," and the "yet one word 
 more " ^these stout hearts liked such things, and found they could 
 fight their daily battles all the better for them ; well, the seraion 
 was over, and the congregation, with haggard faces and tottering 
 steps, but with spirits unsubdued, remembered that by no art 
 could even their loathsome food hold out two days more. The 
 tide was at the flood ; it was now or never. On comes the Mourdjoy, 
 Micaiah Browning, himself a "Derry boy," at the wheel. Will 
 chain and boom at Culmore stand the charge ? For an instant 
 the smoke of the guns hides the headmost ship, it clears, and blank 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. f)^ 
 
 despair darkens those famished faces, as the vessel reels back from 
 the barrier. But another, with a freshening breeze, and the last of 
 the flood, comes on gallantly. Will she, too, fail ? No ; the stranded 
 leader has done her work, and that wild shout, '-We are saved," 
 tells the triumph. 
 
 The tide flows as far as Strabane, through a rich, reedy, alluvial 
 flat, so sleepy and quiet that an alligator or hippopotamus dozing on 
 the mud would hardly be out of place. The rivers Finn and Moume 
 flow into it at Lifford, and ought to be capital angling streams. I 
 never fished either the one or the other. 
 
 Below Culmore point, Lough Foyle spreads out her waters 
 gloriously. On the western shore, the Innishowen mountains (whose 
 inhabitants formerly drank their com instead of eating it) rise in 
 magnificent confusion almost from the water's edge. Handsome villas 
 speak well for honest Derry. Fast little cutters, gay with bunting, 
 flit over the tide, and at the mouth of the lough, where the entrance 
 is scarcely wider than half rifle range, stand the ruins of Green 
 Castle, once an important place, now solitary and deserted, but very 
 beautiful. Dear old ruins, from which I can see my own cottage, 
 near the Giant's Causeway. Well, home is home, after all if you 
 don't have too much of it. 
 
 We shall go to Rathmelton with a diminished party, as Willie 
 leaves us here to fit out our little schooner, and see that she looks 
 her best when we amve. The Pet is the pride of his heart, and he 
 is chief mate. I do not like to part with him, even for a day; 
 something is always wanting, which no one else can do as well. 
 Man and boy, we have roamed about the world many a year 
 together. 
 
 Well, faithful friend, good bye. The poor fellow looks as if he 
 had a bad cold, for his eyes we must not disgrace his manhood, as 
 he wears a beard they are usually weak at such times ; and so it 
 came to pass that we trotted off towards Lough Swilly rather 
 dolefully. 
 
 This noble sheet of water always strikes me as inexpressibly 
 solitary and desolate. Large enough to hold all the war fleets of 
 
60 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; 0% 
 
 the world, if they would only agree to live peaceably together, its 
 present navy boasts only a few fishing-boats, hauled on the strand, 
 some half-dozen hookers, and now and then a schooner bringing 
 Scotch coal and carrying back Irish meal. As soon as the stranger 
 lands on the western or Donegal shore a marked change for the 
 worse is everywhere apparent. The land is more peaty and wet, the 
 farms are small and poor; in fact, from hence to Donegal, via 
 Gweedore, Glenties, Guibarra, and Ardara ^three sufficiently long 
 summer days' journeys the whole country is made up of mountains, 
 morass, lakes, rivers, and bog. Man seems merely allowed to exist, 
 so ungenial is the soil, so capricious the climate. "We must not abuse 
 it, however, as we have spent many, many happy months in the 
 district, and intend to visit it again in the coming autumn. If the 
 climate be inhospitable, it seems to have ripened all hospitable 
 virtues, for the fairest land under the sun cannot show warmer 
 hearts than are there to be found. Dear friends, believe me, your 
 kindness is fresh in my memory. 
 
 This chapter is as long as the road, but, thank heaven I here is 
 Rathmelton. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 What's in a Name ? Walking in the Mist, and Floundering in the Mud A 
 very rough Sketch of the Capabilities of Donegal Not knowing, can't say 
 Lough Fern Grand day on the Leannan Greenon Hill Doings for the 
 Week. 
 
 Friday, April 14. 
 What's in a name ? has been asked on very high authority. The 
 answer is, that it depends entirely on circumstances. 
 
 If a pair of blight eyes, with lips to match, said, " Ah, you 
 rogue," even a gentleman from Gal way would hardly think of 
 calling out the brother ; but " Ah, you rogue ; here, policeman, 
 
SALMON ANa^INO IN IRELAND. 61 
 
 take this fellow in charge, my pocket is picked," would bear quite 
 a different value, and place a strain on your Christian charity 
 sufficiently strong to test its quality. 
 
 Now, they tell me Rathmelton is a town. I should not have 
 thought so, since it does not look at all like one ; but then, you 
 know, it depends on circumstances, for a village in any other country 
 would be a capital city in Donegal, and a Donegal village in another 
 land would be a a curiosity. 
 
 For an idler, Eathmelton would prove a first-rate station. The 
 man does not live who could stand at that inn-door for one morning 
 watching the rain-drops gather on the eaves, with now and then the 
 excitement of a draggle-tailed cock slinking under a cart, and trying 
 in vain to look comfortable. The laziest Saxon on earth would seize 
 his rod and sally forth in the drizale, as I did. 
 
 Donegal is a remarkable county in the matter of rain. Should a 
 cloud from the Atlantic hold but a quart of water, this favoured 
 region is sure to get a pint of it. In point of fact, it has " first 
 choice," and, as the wind blows from the west for nearly half the 
 year, that "first choice" is worth something. A man in a dropsy 
 is always drinking ; this land is anasarcous, and does the same. 
 
 In most of these papers I have endeavoured to give some account 
 of the streams of the neighbourhood ; but Heaven help the man who 
 undertakes the waters of this county. Why, it is all water, except 
 some parts, which are a mixture of water and vegetable mould iu 
 about equal proportions. All the anglers in Britain might here 
 have a station apiece, if they wished it ; there need be no jealousy, 
 gentlemen, I assure you. For several years past I have spent a 
 portion of each autumn in this thirsty land, but know no more of 
 the lakes immediately beyond my route than I did years ago. As 
 his car rolls along through heathery wastes, pieces of water of all 
 sizes meet the traveller's gaze, laying solitary, tempting, and deserted. 
 The majority of these have, probably, never been fished, unless by 
 some chance grouse shooter or a peasant in the \acinity. If the 
 length of the line between Eathmelton and Gweedore, and thence to 
 Donegal, be considered, the number of these lakes is great iijdeed, 
 
b:^ A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 From the summit of Muckisli, as far as the eye can range, silver 
 pools dot the brown expanse. Mountain streams connect many of 
 these with the sea, and probably afford a passage for salmon to reach 
 their lonely winter quarters. That many of these lakes hold large 
 red trout, I know ; what the majority are worth I do not know ; but 
 if local accounts are to be trusted, the sport in the north, west, and 
 south of this country must be excellent. Some ardent spirit, stimu' 
 lated by the difficulty of the enterprise, will doubtless start up and 
 astonish the world piscatorial with his discoveries ; but such an 
 explorer should possess a rare combination of gifts. Imprimis, a 
 waterproof skin, like a seal, or one of Mr. Oording's best boots ; 
 secundo, a stomach that can digest anything, or thrive on nothing ; 
 tertio but a truce to nonsense. This country I believe contains 
 lake treasures unknown to the outside world. They are awfully out 
 of the way ; in countless cases too remote from anything deserving 
 the name of accommodation, to be available except to the neighbour- 
 ing cottar, who, being destitute of a boat, can only paddle about on 
 the margin. 
 
 What Lord George Hill's country was some years ago, anyone who 
 reads "Facts from Gweedore" may see. No roads, no resting-place ; 
 only a few panes of glass in the whole barony, one or two flannel 
 petticoats amongst all the ladies, and so on. It is now some years 
 since I read the pamphlet referred to, but the facts are much as I 
 have stated them. At that time nothing but a seagull or a wild 
 duck could have visited the district and made himself at home. 
 
 What that region was ^before the good man who tried to culti- 
 vate the soil and those who dwelt on it other parts of the country 
 are now, wild, desolate, and inaccessible ; but, as we shall see more of 
 it in September, enough has been said for the present. 
 
 We have been flying over the country as if an excursion-ticket 
 were in our pocket, whereas a tour de ma chamhre would have been 
 better; so perhaps the reader will please to remember we only amved 
 last night at Rathmelton. 
 
 This frontier town of Donegal dozes away its existence on the 
 banks of the river Leannan. The seedy, disconsolate aspect of the 
 
SAI.MON ANGLING IN IRELAND. Gli 
 
 place would lead a stranger to imagine it had taken to drinking and 
 lost all self-respect. . . . Before a box had been taken off the 
 car last night my host infonned me, " there had not been a drop of 
 rain for the past five weeks, and the river was as low as it could be." 
 He repeated the same statement this morning, though the draggle- 
 tailed cock at the door flatly contradicted him. Drizzle in Eath- 
 melton must be a synonym for fine weather. This, however, was a 
 matter of little moment, as here the salmon ascend to the lake at a 
 very early period all through the winter, in fact at which season, 
 at least m Donegal, there i* sure to be no lack of moisture. 
 
 After an early breakfast we set off for Lough Fern, following the 
 course of the Leannan along a shallow boggy depression, which here 
 passes for a valley, in which I believe conscientiously every species 
 of j uncus figured by Hooker find a " local habitation," if not a 
 name. A short drive brought us to the cottage of the resident 
 professor, when, leaving our horse happy in munching some sour 
 hay, we walked to the lake, baled out the boat, and commenced 
 operations with two trout and one salmon-fly. Round the sedges, 
 at the south-south-west extremity, we fished, rising and hooking 
 respectable trout at short intervals, changing the trail again and again 
 without changing our fortune. The guide paddled and paddled in 
 ghost-like silence, which was only broken by my inquiring "What was 
 to be done next?" Resting on his oars with the aspect of a deeply 
 injured man, he observed, " it would have been as well to have 
 consulted him sooner," and next pulled from his pocket an article, 
 the prevailing hue of which was whitey brown, the gut and hook 
 thereto belonging being sufficient to fill an angler with despair. 
 Madame, with great zeal, instantly commenced what she had the 
 assurance to call an improvement on the pattern ; with which, alas ! 
 it was destined never to be compared, as before its completion a fine 
 fish earned off the antique, to some subaqueous museum. I might 
 have said with Paulina 
 
 YHiat's gone, and what's past help, 
 Should be past grief ; 
 
 though I fear I did not utter anything half so reasonable. 
 
64 A YEAR OP LIBERTY ! OH, 
 
 Silent Charon was unmoved, even by the loss of his property, 
 Whether the abnormal spell of sunshine and dry weather had 
 withered his spirits, whether that morning he had been requested 
 to pay a " thrifle on account of rint," or whether a solitary life had 
 impaired the flexibility of his vocal organs, is uncertain. It might 
 have been either, neither, or a little of each ; but whatever the 
 cause, our pulling machine no more resembled an ordinary Celtic 
 boatman, than a modem perfumer in Eegent-street resembles Da 
 Ponte's Figaro. 
 
 '^The improvement" did not for soine time mend our broken 
 fortunes, but at length, as we neared the upper end of the water, a 
 deep eddjdng swirl gave promise of better things. What children 
 we are, when a bubble on the surface of a small boggy lake can set 
 our hearts beating, and make us oblivious of cold, hunger, and disap- 
 pointment ! A fiery brown, and next an olive, were offered and 
 sullenly rejected ; then came the rising fly. A bright flash through 
 the rippling water acknowledged the attention. For an instant the 
 line is strained, by compression between the hand and the butt, and 
 then " away for life he springs." The prolonged screech of the 
 wheel bespoke an able and vigorous adversary. Now to the bottom, 
 right below the boat, he dives ; then once more tries his speed. The 
 line, with wonderful velocity assuming the horizontal, shows what 
 is coming. Low stoops the rod, just in time to meet as desperate a 
 leap, in the direct course of his headlong race, as ever salmon 
 achieved. The guide casts a quick glance upwards at the rod ; its 
 curve satisfies him that nothing has given way, and now on one 
 palm, now on the other, he tests the shai-pness of the gaff. The 
 examination seems satisfactory, for with a grim smile he lays the 
 weapon across his knees, ready for instant use, and proceeds to light 
 a pipe, his glance never for a moment quitting the spot at which 
 the line cut the surface of the lake. Shorter grow the runs ; the 
 airy somersaults are now exchanged for feeble plunges ; a few 
 minutes more, and we are admiring the first prize drawn from 
 Lough Fern. 
 
 The shores of the lake offered no temptations to wander away in 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 66 
 
 search of the picturesque, so we stuck to business with considerable 
 perseverance, and by '' closing time" had every reason to be satisfied 
 with the amount of patronage bestowed on us. In the till we found 
 two score of trout and a salmon of 141b. 
 
 Many reasons combine to render Lough Fern an aqua incognita to 
 the sporting world. It lies in a remote part of the country, which, 
 possessing few attractions, is not often visited by tourists. The art 
 of puffing seems little understood in honest Donegal, and the sport is 
 best in spring, when boat-fishing is rather cold, uncomfortable work. 
 Moreover, the quarters, though sufficient, are not splendid ; the town 
 is poor and uninviting, and, on market-days, may my good genius 
 preserve me from Rathmelton. Nevertheless, if a man desires to kill 
 salmon, let him go to Lough Fern in the spring. 
 
 Yesterday, as we drove to the lake, along the banks of the river, I 
 noticed some deepish stretches of water, and this morning there was 
 a fine south-easterly breeze. On mentioning my intention to the 
 landlord, he shnigged his shoulders, saying, " if exercise were neces- 
 sary, I could not do better ; but as for catching anything, the road 
 was as good as the river.'* On close inspection, it did not look so 
 promising as from a greater distance ; nothing but small flies would 
 do, and as none of the requisite size were in the book, we manu- 
 factured a dark claret, with orange tips, black hackle, jay shoulder 
 and mallard wing, on a medium grilse hook. Whenever a cloud 
 came over the sun, I worked as men do whose time is limited. When 
 the sky was all blue, I set to at the junci, with every chance of 
 making a good bag. Were the family tree at hand, on some important 
 branch unquestionably the honoured name of Porcas would be seen. 
 What a fool was I to go on such an errand ! What an obstinate pig, 
 to remain against conviction ! Yet on the whole, perhaps, it was not 
 an unsuccessful day. In the morning, the tail of my self-conceit was 
 over my back ; in the evening it was so tight between my legs as to 
 impede locomotion ; but I brought back a basketful of good resolu- 
 tions, much respect for local opinions, and an appetite that would 
 have done credit to a wolf. 
 
 We remained here a week, fishing for six days, in which time we 
 
 F 
 
66 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 bagged eight good-sized salmon, and about half a hundredweight of 
 trout. 
 
 In bidding adieu to Lough Fern, the reader takes his leave of the 
 last of the spring lakes which lay in our proposed route. Hitherto 
 the drought had injured us but little ; in the coming summer, how- 
 ever, the evil will be found great, so great indeed as to make the 
 season quite an exceptional one. It seems wiser, therefore, to 
 represent the sport such as it really is in average seasons ; this 
 plan will also be more instructive to the stranger, as well as more 
 generally correct. I have avoided all "tall talking" about large 
 bags, and have purposely painted that part of my pictures in very 
 sober colours indeed. 
 
 Well, then, we have taken our leave of spring lakes, but before we 
 part, the reader will yet float on three or four summer seas, and 
 how different will he find them ! Instead of cutting wind and 
 driving rain, there will be flowers and rustling trees, the song of 
 birds, balmy airs, and islands whose delicious beauty would have 
 made the poets of old days fix on them as the abodes of the blessed. 
 These bright days and pleasant things will all come in time ; at 
 present the car is at the door, and we are bound once more for 
 Derry, via Greenon Hill. 
 
 Along the shores of Lough Swilly and over heathery swells we roll, 
 till before us stands the mountain, on the summit of which is the 
 Grianan of Aileach, the most remarkable piece of antiquity in 
 Donegal. Here was the palace of the northern Irish kings, from 
 the most remote antiquity down to the twelfth century ; and what 
 a picture of the time does this place afford. Fancy his Majesty 
 Donnell Mac Loughlin, the last monarch of Ulster, by right of his 
 august title, taking up his quarters for the night on the lee side of 
 the Cyclopean wall, " which served him for parlour, for bed- 
 room, for kitchen and all." This al fresco sort of thing might do 
 very well in the Friendly Islands ; but his majesty and court 
 must have had a damp time of it on Greenon Hill. In the 
 *' Memoirs of the Ordnance Survey of Ireland," there is a minute 
 description of this interesting ruin, together with an ancient poem, 
 
SALMON ANOLTNO IN IRELAND. 67 
 
 wliich bears undoubted evidence of having been written before 
 
 A.D. 1101. 
 
 The view from the summit is exquisite over lough and heath, 
 mountains, and the broad Atlantic. It comes back to me now in 
 its wondrous beauty, as fresh and bright as when I turned my steps 
 down the hill to mount the car, and continue my journey to Derry. 
 
 CHAPTER XIIL 
 
 The Bu3h Dulce Domum From Derry to Portrush What the Birds said 
 We sail Home, make Casting Lines and Flies, mend Rods, go to the River, 
 and get paid for the Job Pounds, Shillings, and Penoe. 
 
 Friday, April 21. 
 Men seldom love but once in their lives ; that is, love really and 
 truly in the most exalted sense of the word. There are of course 
 no end of shams and make-believes, to which all kinds of fine names 
 are given, but these are counterfeits, and won't wash. 
 
 Now as with persons, so is it with places. We have all " a first 
 love." It may be some country village where our childhood was 
 passed, and where our mother lived ; it may be at home, it may be 
 abroad ; mountain, valley, or stream, may be the charmer ; but 
 somewhere or other, to all men there is one spot dearer than all 
 others in the world. I know there is to me, and thither I am 
 flying. 
 
 All the stations hitherto visited have been favourites ; but what 
 are they to Ballantrae ? We are speeding along the shores of Derry 
 Lough, and each moment some well-remembered object comes into 
 view. On the left the Inishowen Mountains rise peak above peak. 
 Yonder glides the swift river steamer, from Green Castle to the 
 Maiden City. The curlews, the graceful cranes, the little clouds of 
 sandpipers, all seem to cry "Welcome home, welcome home I" 
 
 p 2 
 
68 A YEAR OF LIBERTY) OR, 
 
 The matchless strand of Magilligan, where we have bo often trawled, 
 lies sleeping in the sunshine ; there is Down Hill, and here is the 
 Bann, one of the monster rivers of the dear little island, flowing 
 broad and majestic through Coleraine, "famed for lovely Kitty," as 
 poor Thackeray sang. A few minutes more, and the scream of the 
 engine announces our arrival at the Portrush station. 
 
 Foremost amongst the little crowd stands a neat figure in white 
 canvas shoes, blue trousers, blue jersey, and white hat, on the band 
 of which, in gilt letters, is the word " Pet." Very busy is he with 
 the luggage, handing out of the van (such liberties are allowed in 
 the north) boxes, portmanteau, carpet bag, and rod case, to arms 
 eager and willing to receive them. Many a hand, hard and brown 
 with honest seafaring toil, was outstretched to welcome us. Dear 
 honest fellows! little had I ever done to gain their kindly hearts 
 now and then a dose, advice, or a lecture, with which last a dram 
 was usually ordered, to take away any unpleasant flavour. Had 
 there been a dozen trunks, instead of the five or six vanishing out of 
 the station, there would have been a hand for each. 
 
 Carrying the cloaks, the chief mate was in close attendance on 
 his mistress ; and what a running fire of hurried questions and 
 replies. 
 
 " How is the dog ? Was Jenny M'Oafferty's leg better? " Every- 
 thing on board the Pet was, of course, as it should be perfect. 
 In a whisper: ' How was the master's cat ; was the stump healed ? " 
 Three parts of his tail, I heard afterwards, had been cut off in a 
 rabbit trap ; but this was a profound secret, not to be revealed till 
 the last moment. '' The river must be very low," &c., &c. 
 
 The baggage was on board when we arrived at the landing-place. 
 The commissariat, for once in the history of nations, was up to the 
 front, and ver}' satisfactory it looked, in the shape of a hind quarter 
 of beef, wrapped in something that appeared wonderfully like a sheet ; 
 together with a couple of hampers containing various fluids. Good 
 eating, it is said, requires good drinking. 
 
 To carry animal food with us was a necessity, for the Bushmills 
 cows, though excellent animals in their way, have one remarkable 
 
SALMON ANGLlNa IN IRELAND. 69 
 
 and very disagreeable peculiarity the horns are the tenderest part. 
 I do not believe, on my honour, a tiger could digest beef such as 
 that pleasant town produces. 
 
 The ladies of course in a hurry stepped into the punt, and were 
 incontinently sculled on board ; then the beef, bottles, and skipper 
 pushed off. 
 
 How beautiful the graceful little schooner looked, as she lay at 
 anchor ; her long sharp wave bow cleaving the green swells as they 
 rolled towards the strand. The mainsail was set a few pulls at 
 the hawser "She's over the kedge, sir." " Up with the jib, then." 
 The main sheet is eased off, the fore sheet hauled to windward, her 
 head pays off ; in comes the anchor, and the little craft gathers way ; 
 the thickening eddies at her heel show increasing speed, and, with 
 the foresail set, she bounded close-hauled down the sound of the 
 Skenies, at a good eight knots and something over. 
 
 A boy just out of school, a bird in full song, are held to be 
 emblems of happiness ; but neither bird nor boy was half so joyous 
 as the skipper. The very touch of the tiller seemed like the kindly 
 greeting of a friend ; with childish pleasure his eye ran over the 
 snowy canvas, noted the spars, and the rigging tight and true ; then 
 watched the foam which marked her path, as his favourite, bowing 
 easily to eveiy freshening gust, sped along like an an*ow. The 
 strand (whose old brown face the playful waves are decking with a 
 snowy beard) is past. Tliere are the chalky cliffs " the white 
 rocks" full of galleries, halls, and pillared chambers, into which 
 the breakers, like lusty revellers, are reeling, to shout and sing the 
 livelong night. 
 
 As we open '* our bay" the cottage is hailed with a shout ; in two 
 stretches the little Pet gained her moorings ; one touch of the helm, 
 and her head is in the wind ; down come the sails ; her way lessens 
 and lessens ; and then she is at rest under our windows. 
 
 I now found time to ask the chief mate about our fishing 
 prospects. " There were lots of fish in the river," he said, "but the 
 present warm bright weather precluded all chance of catching 
 them ; the glass and barometer, too, were very high, and promised 
 
70 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 to continue so." Now this state of affairs did not suit the Bush, 
 that excellent lady being rather choice in the matter of weather ; 
 nothing pleases her except the united homage of wind and clouds. 
 Then there is no end of her goodness. 
 
 Our stock of tackle consisted only of six or eight flies none 
 suitable for the water and one casting line, which had seen service 
 at the Cummeragh, Lough Gill, and Lough Fern. In fact, the 
 season's fly-fishing was only now about to commence, and we had 
 everything to get ready. We never keep old stock, so next morning 
 were wonderfully busy. The first things to be made were half a 
 dozen single and two or three treble casting lines, and this is the 
 way we proceeded. Eight or nine threads of gut were selected with 
 some attention to graduation ; these were thrown into a basin of 
 tepid water. Then a similar number were chosen, and rolled up to 
 keep them distinct ; then another and another lot, all fastened up in 
 a different way. By this time the first were ready for use. At the 
 end of each thread a small loop was made, the spare parts clipped 
 off, and the strands laid one after the other on the table. When all 
 were thus prepared, the line was finished by each loop being passed 
 into the next. 
 
 So this first part of our business was done. For "the trebles" 
 we set to work in a different manner. First, three suitable pieces of 
 gut were knotted together at one end and thrown into water; 
 then other lots followed, till sufficient were collected to make a 
 total of 6ft. One set was now taken out, and fastened through the 
 knot by a pin to the table. Between the thumb and fore finger 
 one strand is slightly twisted and laid over the next, which in turn 
 receives a few twists ; the third undergoes the same treatment, and 
 so the first stage is completed. The same manipulation continued to 
 the end of the threads, finishes the first length ; and by degrees the 
 whole were made, spliced, varnished with copal, and hung on pins to 
 dry. Before going to bed a dozen and a half of flies, on medium 
 gi'ilse hooks, were finished ; and thus an impracticable day was 
 turned to account. The following morning was as unfavoui'able as 
 the preceding, so all the rods were overhauled and put into working 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 71 
 
 order. Some day, when there is nothing else to be done, we will 
 show how easy it is to jnake one. Something may be learned from 
 all this detail. Single lines made as above described are stronger 
 than any others the goodness of the gut being equal and are 
 quite as neat in the water. In the ordinary method knots mean 
 weakness ; here the strength is uniform. This mode may be 
 common, but, to the best of my belief, I never saw a line of this 
 kind except on my own rod. The finer the gut, the more necessary 
 to employ every aid to give it strength. By following this course 
 many a fine fish is secured which would otherwise be lost. There is 
 no law in operation to make it penal for a salmon to take even 
 the smallest trout fly; last season I landed one of 17^1b. on an 
 O'Shaughnessy one size above the smallest, the casting line being 
 the finest gut procurable. In the case of the trebles we have 
 endeavoured to show they can be made without a machine. The 
 less unnecessary baggage a tourist has to carry the better. He must 
 take his fingers with him, and may as well make them useful, 
 
 The third morning after our arrival the quiet of the cottage was 
 rudely dispelled ; cups and saucers clinked up and down the stairs ; 
 the poker in the little breakfast room had an insane desire to make 
 war on the coals ; there was whispering, and the sound of feet. I 
 wanted to sleep. I could only turn from side to side and groan in 
 despair. This did not suit the conspirators. "Hui-ry, Mary, wid 
 the tea ; the master will be raging mad this minit if he hasn't his 
 wather." Here the hall door swung open ; I knew the keen 
 whistling blast right well. " By Jove, the wind is north, and lots 
 of it." You may believe breakfast that morning was a short cere- 
 mony ; in less than half an hour we were tearing along the road for 
 the Bridge Pool. This wind is the best that can blow for the Bush ; 
 the long broad sheet of water, from the old bridge to the Carry, was 
 sparkling with ten thousand crisping wavelets. In less than a 
 quarter of an hour after our anival a beautiful ten-pounder lay 
 crimped on the grass ; another soon followed, and near the bottom 
 of the pool a third came to hand. " Change the fly, Willis ; we 
 will try it again." This time, however, we did nothing ; more 
 
72 A YEAR OF liberty; oil, 
 
 correctly, worse than nothing, as we hooked a nice fish and lost him. 
 Then it was time to move on. The Lilacs were too low ; next in 
 order is the "turn hole," the lower part of which lay in the full 
 sweep of the wind, and seemed full of promise. Nevertheless, we 
 passed four flies over that cast in vain. Now we reach Olatty Hole. 
 Three parts of this long reach were also too low, but still there 
 remained ten or twelve yards of excellent water. Here we succeeded 
 again, landing our fourth fish. Next in merit to the Bridge Pool is 
 Island Fad ; but here the river makes a sudden bend to the west, so 
 the north wind did not avail. The Colonel's Lodge was in a similar 
 evil case, and we speed on to Skelly's Lower Holm. Over this the 
 keen breeze blew fresh and fail', and, as we expected, another salmon 
 was added to the basket, which, however, long since too heavy, had 
 been left behind ; so, "being added to the basket" was a figure of 
 speech, importing that the last captive was bound head and tail, and 
 thus carried. The Brambly Comer, the Ford, and " the Stone 
 Throw," were all in excellent order, but not in a charitable mood. 
 The day was wearing late. Should we go home ? No, by no means ; 
 so we trudged back to the bridge, and fished all the pools down 
 without moving another fish. The last cast on the river was the 
 lower island, and here, after much flogging, we whipped up another 
 twelve-pounder and killed. The six fish weighed 671b. ; the 
 smallest 91b., the largest 151b. 
 
 It was late when we reached the cottage, but not too late to 
 exhibit om' prizes on the grass-plat. **You would have done better 
 had you stuck to the old river, instead of running half over the 
 country," observed Madame ; and I was much of the same opinion. 
 
 Nothing has been said regarding pecuniary terms on this river. The 
 omission is intentional, as I have no warrant for promising that the 
 price of one year will be the price of another. As a general rule, the 
 market has an upward tendency. Whether it has reached its highest 
 quotation may be a matter of doubt. Our glorious fishery law, by 
 improving second and third-rate streams, will, I believe, lessen the 
 angling value of those whose reputation has hitherto been of the 
 highest. This silence on the money question is no injury to the 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. ^3 
 
 reader, who, by applying to my old and valued friend the lessee, may 
 learn all he wishes to know ; and I will venture to promise that the 
 reply he receives shall be as courteous, as straightforward, and 
 explicit. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 The Bush From the Sea to the Leap -Rod-making Headlands We row up 
 the Bann Three Days consecutive Angling at Spring Tides Laggandrade 
 Letter from Lismore We go to Lough I^eagh. 
 
 Saturday, April 29. 
 Rising at the foot of Knocklayd Mountain, the Bush pursues first 
 a westerly and subsequently a northerly course ; visiting one or 
 two small hamlets it passes Buehmills, and enters the sea close to the 
 little village of Port Ballantrae. Owing to natural and artificial 
 causes, this river holds a large quantity of water, and is probably, 
 for its size, less dependent on rain than any stream in the three 
 kingdoms. For a considerable portion of its course the Bush passes 
 through a flat marshy valley, and then thunders over a cascade, 
 known locally as " the Leap." From thence to the sea, a distance 
 of about two miles, are several weirs, which prevent the water falling 
 below a certain level. Let there be clouds, and wind from the north, 
 north-west, or west (if rain, all the better), and I will ensure the angler 
 sport, be the drought what it may. Warm, bright, and still weather 
 put an absolute stop to fishing in this stream. Of coui'se if a man 
 wants exercise he may thrash away, but by so doing he spoils his 
 chance ; it would be better to practise gymnastics anywhere than on 
 the still, unruflled pools of the Bush. The fish get sick of the flies 
 as you, without appetite, would of panada or jelly. If a lion is 
 wanted to roar outrageously at feeding-time, let his beef be a 
 novelty. 
 
 After the change recorded in the last chaptor the weather became 
 " too bright, too blue " for our purpose ; to-day forms no exception. 
 
74 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 SO we will walk the river from the sea to the Leap and carry a rod 
 pro forma. 
 
 Over the firm strand flows the Bush, and just above high-water 
 mark is Welland's Pool. Ah me ! if I had as many guineas in my 
 purse as I have landed salmon from this spot it would be far heavier 
 than it is. Next come the Upper and Lower Islands. These are but 
 indifferent lodges, yet always worth a trial with the wind in the north. 
 "The Throat," "The Stone Throw," and "The Ford," are con- 
 tinuous, each nearly commencing at the point where the other ends. 
 ''The Brambly Corner" is excellent for 15ft. or 16ft. ; also "The 
 Holms," upper and lower. The latter is very good in high water 
 or a sharp breeze. " MacLoughlan's Ford " seems shallow, but is a 
 very pretty run. Now, flourish trumpets, for here is " Island Fad," 
 a long reach of dead water. It is hard to name the best part, where 
 all is good. " The Clatty Hole," " The Turn," and " The Lilacs," 
 bring us to the " Bridge Pool," the best stretch in the river. Above 
 the little town of Bushmills are "Jamie's Dam," " Laggandrade," 
 "Langtange," and "The Leap." 
 
 Here we wiU pause and put on the casting line, for the sun, 
 hitherto cloudless, has sunk behind the wooded heights which at 
 this point surround the stream, whilst a light easterly air, the only 
 one which strikes, gains strength as the heat declines. In the rocky 
 and foaming basin under the cascade, we killed a fourteen-pounder, 
 and in the neck of Laggandrade landed another fish of less weight. 
 Such unexpected good fortune rarely falls to mortal lot. 
 
 As we shall want a very light rod for green-drake fishing, we will 
 devote this glorioas day to making it. Nothing can be more easy 
 or simple than the whole affair. This slender bit of lancewood, about 
 1ft. in length, is reduced to the size required. A few strokes with a 
 plane form a 3 J-inch splice ; then another and another similar piece is 
 treated in like manner, and glued. The lower part of the joint is 
 formed from one length of seasoned hickory, sufficient to make the 
 whole 6ft., for the article we are working at is to be 18ft. in three 
 parts. Next, another piece of hickory of the required length is put 
 under the plane, and brought down to its due proportion. Here, 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 75 
 
 too, a long splice is cut, and glued to the first part. The spring, 
 straightness, and balance are now carefully examined, and any fault 
 corrected. Lastly, the butt is made from clean ash, and glued. 
 The rod being now roughed out, we will next suppose it perfect, so 
 we put on the slides for the wheel. 
 
 The finishing is done by rasp and glass-paper. We must now 
 stain shall it be yellow or black ? If the former, the wood must be 
 brushed over with diluted nitric acid, and heat applied. If the latter 
 be preferred, treat the parts with a strong solution of nitrate of 
 silver, and afterwards with hydro-sulphuret of ammonia. Glass- 
 paper is again wanted, and now our work is smooth as ivory, and 
 round as a ruler. We have spent so much time on the job, that it is 
 not worth our while to omit French polishing. Eings are put on, 
 and top splices finished. The lapping must be perfectly smooth and 
 even. Copal varnish for the silk, and a lignum vitae button, the size 
 of a five-shilling piece, for a rest, and you have an article our friend 
 in Jermyn-street need not blush to own. 
 
 The coast scenery round the cottage is perhaps the most beautiful 
 in Ireland. Within half an hour's stroll is the Giant's Causeway. 
 The mountain cliffs of basalt extend for miles, terminating at Fair- 
 head ; and happy is the man who has yet to see for the first time the 
 glorious beauty of that scene, extending far and wide over land and 
 water, mountain and island, bays, harbours, and hamlets, beautiful 
 in detail, and as a whole almost without a rival. 
 
 As everybody has at least half a dozen stereoscopic views of the 
 Causeway, we will climb the Giant's path, and walk along the 
 furze-clad headlands, which, in my humble opinion, are worth all 
 the Hexagons in the world. I felt disappointed on first seeing this 
 wonderful piece of crystallization, and the feeling has never left me ; 
 compared with everything around, it seems insignificant. Well, 
 there is here beauty to please every taste ; but the breezy mountain 
 rocks for me. Shall I tell you what may be seen from their summits? 
 Far away to the north, clear, blue, and beautiful, lay the Hebrides, 
 the sun shining brightly on the cliffs of Islay, whilst the peaks of 
 Jura mingle with the clouds. At our feet the Causeway slopes gently 
 
7^ A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 into the ocean, beneath whose clear blue waters the columns can be 
 seen trending off in the direction of Staffa ; and the restless heaving 
 Atlantic stretches away, away, bearing many a homeward sail down 
 the Sound. So close, that it seems but a step, is the rocky isle of 
 Rathlin, still haunted by traditions of the Bruce. To the north-east 
 bonny Scotland shows fair and clear, whilst the glorious columnar 
 rocks sweep in gi-aceful curves to Bengore-head. What poor words 
 of mine can paint their beauty of form, their infinite variety of colour, 
 from layers of ochre, earths, and lichens ? They must be seen, not 
 told. To the south-west, bright reaches of strand, basaltic rocks, 
 peaceful Lough Foyle, and the Donegal highlands, complete the 
 view ; whilst landwards, the storm-beaten fields and wastes of Antrim 
 roll, swell above swell, to join the lofty range, of which Knocklayd is 
 the king. 
 
 All this is veiy fine quite touching ; but what has it to do with 
 fishing ? Nothing nothing at all. But, my dear friend, we can't 
 have everything we want in this life. We can't make clouds, or 
 bring wind and rain. Look at my diary : ' Monday, blazing hot. 
 Tuesday, ditto ditto. Wednesday, worse than ever." Well, take 
 comfort ; the glass is falling, and to morrow is the first of the 
 springs ; so if we have any luck, there will be sport yet before the 
 week is over. 
 
 Barometer still falling, but not a cloud in the sky or an air on the 
 water. Nothing can be done here, so we will go to Coleraine and 
 take a look at the Bann. 
 
 On this noble stream there is a boat club, and a good one too. 
 What a treat to set foot in a light wherry and feel one of Searle's 
 oars in your hand. With the sunshine glittering through the woods 
 on either side, and gilding the windows of many a villa, we steamed 
 up a river, wide as the Thames at Hammersmith, with a head water 
 like an inland sea. At present we will confine ourselves to the 
 Bann, as we hope to be tossing on Lough Neagh within five days. 
 The water from the sea to the weirs at Castle Roe is free to all rods ; 
 above, it is rented by a club, the terms of which are very moderate. 
 The run of salmon is late, and little can be done till June ; the 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 77 
 
 trout, however, aflford excellent sport, and range from 21b. to 91b. 
 Hauling our boat at the weirs, we launched her again, and pursued 
 our way towards Kilrea. Here and there on the broad bosom of the 
 too tranquil stream we met a cot, holding an angler or two, some of 
 whom had five or six trout. They were remarkably well-made fish, 
 but I do not remember seeing one above 41b., whilst the great 
 majority did not exceed 2^1b. The day, however, was as unfavour- 
 able as could well be imagined. All parties, if agreeing in nothing 
 else, seemed unanimous in the opinion that the Board of Works, 
 whilst improving the navigation, had injured the fishing by removing 
 or altering the fords ; nor could I leani that a single salmon had yet 
 been taken by the rod. In point of size, the fish rank next to those 
 of the Erne and Shannon. Taking a hasty lunch, we pulled down 
 the river at our best pace, and were just in time to catch the mail 
 
 car back to Bushmills The glasses kept their promise, for on 
 
 the following morning the sky was covered with misty clouds. 
 There was a smir of rain, too, and a soft west wind faintly ruffled 
 Island Fad as we slipped on " the scarlet." Cast after cast fell light 
 and true, but not a fish stirred. The soldier gave place to " the 
 silver body," which in tmn yielded to the ' golden olive ;" next 
 came " the parson," but he preached in vain ; and last of all a small 
 dark claret was tried, with which, in about three hours, four salmon 
 were landed. The upper pools lay still and unruffled. The west 
 wind could do nothing for them, so we followed the stream down to 
 the Stone and the Throat, where, after doing all we knew for four 
 hours, we succeeded in killing two fish more. Thus ended the day, 
 which was highly satisfactory, considering the small amount of air. 
 The next that followed seemed far more promising. There was a 
 spanking west wind over Island Fad and the lower water. We went 
 to work early, but did nothing till after four o'clock, when we rose 
 five salmon, killing three of 81b., lOlb., and lO^lb. respectively. 
 
 And now our last day has come, and with it clouds and a keen 
 small north-east breeze. No questions were asked ; no consultation 
 was needed ; Laggandrade was our mark, and to Laggandi-ade we 
 came. 
 
78 A YBAE OP libeety; or, 
 
 This long deep sheet of water is the beau ideal of a "lodge." On 
 all sides rise black basaltic rocks, clothed with tall furze, all 
 golden with ten thousand blossoms, whilst bluebells and primroses 
 make the dark glen glittre like a garden. The river here is wide, 
 and, as may be imagined, the angling difficult, for each cast must be 
 parallel to the bank, and sent by a turn of the wrist in the direction 
 required. At the neck of the pool huge boulders rear their bald 
 heads, among which I rose, hooked, and lost two fish. A few yards 
 below lays a flat rock just submerged : here the sport was admi- 
 rable, as in the shortest time that such a thing could be done, 
 three salmon were landed and a fourth bungled. Over the rest 
 of the throw the fish rose at intervals till evening ; two more were 
 pricked, and three played close up to the gaff and lost, at which you 
 may be sure fearful growls were uttered ; nor were we consoled by 
 the seven salmon, which made our backs ache horribly before they 
 were laid out for inspection on the grass plat of the cottage. 
 
 Cruel fate had still something in store for us, as the evening mail 
 brought a letter from a friend at Lismore, an admirable angler, and 
 a gentleman whose word is better than the bond of most other men. 
 It ran as follows : 
 
 " My dear old fellow, You ask me what we are doing here. Here, where 
 you vowed to astonish the natives, and where you certainly distinguished your- 
 self in a remarkable way during the late blessed month of February, we are 
 doing nothing ; but didn't I tell you they would have a glorious time of it in 
 CO. Cork ? Between this place and Mallow the river swarms with fish, the best 
 streams are very strictly preserved. Cross-fishing is practised to a large 
 extent, and some weeks the average has been so much as fourteen salmon per day to 
 each rod on some of the flats near Fermoy. I only give you this information 
 from hearsay, but I consider it reliable. Some of the stands are rented from 
 the farmers on the banks, and on others, the holders employ men for cross- 
 fishing as a matter of profit." 
 
 Hang the letter. It was gall and wormwood. Fancy twenty- 
 eight salmon per day to a cross-line. Why, it would at least equal 
 twelve or thirteen to the fair angler ; and such fish. Unwillingly I 
 left the Blackwater, and would have remained, had not inexorable 
 fate driven me half over the island. But, if I live till next spring, 
 
SALMON ANGLINa IN IBELAND. 4\i 
 
 Bee if I don't rent what my friend calls " a stand.'* Lucky dogs are 
 the rising generation ; they will skim the cream without the trouble 
 of milking the cow. 
 
 Early to-morrow we go to Toom Bridge, for a few days' fly-fishing, 
 but without the smallest expectation of slaying any of the mighty 
 men of Lough Neagh. Neither do we propose to show this vast 
 water. As well might Mr. Cook undertake to "make up" his happy 
 family of tourists, in the geography, statistics, history, botany, and 
 conchology of the entire MediteiTanean seaboard, between Saturday 
 and Monday, as I to conduct the angler round the coasts of this 
 inland sea in a paper 18 inches by 3. No comprehensive picture 
 can here be painted only " a bit " from the north-north-west 
 comer. A sketch, however, may sometimes give a good notion of 
 the subject, like one of Mrs. Snarley's " hints," or Maurice Ritch's 
 immortal "lines." 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 In which there is not a word about Salmon Fishing Toom Bridge ^Lough 
 Neagh Antrim Two Days' Trouting Business calls me to Dublin Old 
 Lodgings Tackle Shops The South Wall We arrive at MuUingar Fine 
 Weather not ruinous to Belvidere The Lake District. 
 
 May 8. 
 How are the mighty fallen ! Where is Babylon the Great ? Hiding 
 under a few mounds of earth and sand, of bricks, bitumen, and 
 pottery, till some Layard takes to digging, and sends home a bull or 
 a sphinx, a tea-cup or a tobacco-pipe when the learaed with one 
 voice exclaim, " Wonderful wonderful ! this dead nation knew 
 China and Virginia ecce signum : from this cup they quaffed : from 
 this tube they smoked ; lo ! there is nothing new under the sun." 
 Long ago Tyre laid aside her purple and soft vestments, her jewels 
 and golden wine cups yet she does to dry nets upon ; and Carthage 
 would have been forgotten, had not a love-sick queen required " a 
 
80 A YEAB OF LIBERTY ; OB, 
 
 local habitation " for her name. Thus are the mighty fallen ; and 
 can Antrim keep her feet ? Poor, dirty, tattered old dame ! yet she 
 was a sovereign once, till the quiet, orderly republico-aristocratie 
 BeKast took the crown from her brows, and employed, I must say, 
 the usurpation nobly. 
 
 Fancy this long row of cabins with here and there a wretched 
 huckster, selling everything on the earth and under the earth, in a 
 space 9ft. by 7ft., sending two members to Parliament I Your 
 splendid premises, Mr. O'Dogherty, and yours, Mr. M'Manus, are of 
 course excepted. Then, too, she had a mayor, who was admiral 
 over hundreds of miles of coast, and rode in plate and mail, like a 
 good knight as he doubtless was, to collect his dues and astonish 
 the natives. But, apart from history, Antrim has a special chann 
 for me. 
 
 How well I remember my last visit, when you, dear lady, in hat 
 plume and riding whip, walked by my side with a step more light, 
 free, and elastic than ever trod on earth. Do you remember, 
 brightest and pleasantest of companions? For the sake of those 
 days I will visit the " Bound Tower," if only to stand where we 
 stood, and once more make the Past present ; after which we will 
 swallow our grief at the '' Antrim Anns," even as you did the fine 
 lake trout, by way of a light refection before dinner. Dear old 
 happy days ! Ah ! Time, you are a sad thief. I wish from my 
 heart the autocrat of Bow-street would stop your proceedings, and 
 sign a warrant for your committal usque ad cetemum. 
 
 Did you ever see a round tower ? Here is one, perfect as the day 
 on which it was finished. But who shaped this graceful needle ? 
 for what purpose was it erected ? Ah, there you are with your 
 questions, Mr. Brown. On my word of honour, I know no more 
 than the chairman of the Pre-Mediseval Society in Piccadilly. In a 
 legendary land like this it must be old indeed to have outlived 
 tradition. There must have been a sanctity about these mystic 
 towers, since no ingenious monk ever hatched a new old chronicle to 
 tell us all about them. The one before me is 95ft. high, and 
 scarcely greater in circumference than the trunk of many an old 
 
SALMON ANQLINQ IN IRELAND. 81 
 
 oak. These tilings aro pleasant to look on, perhaps all the more 
 pleasant for our ignorance. 
 
 Wo have come a little out of our way in order to row back to the 
 ** O'Neil Arms," at Toom Bridge, on this fine Saturday afternoon. 
 Willie has been left behind to lay up the Pet, and his sister remains 
 to take care of him, with special orders to bi*ing him on to Mullingar 
 by the 8th. So the scribe and his fair companion strolled to the 
 side of *' Six Mile Water," took boat, and pushed off upon the broad 
 bosom of the lake. 
 
 On the shore we had often been ; on the water, never. Some 
 chapters back, when citing several spots where larger trout were to 
 be found than in Lough Guttane, I omitted Lough Neagh, which 
 holds better fish than any other in L'eland. 
 
 On my first visit to Antrim, I had a very natural wish to see what 
 the lake produced, and called on a professional for infoimation, who 
 promised to gratify m}^ curiosity as soon as he could. Late one 
 evening he came it was after dinner, and a pullan had formed part 
 of it, which fish you should know bears a very drowsy reputation. 
 Now whether it was that fresh-water herring or a twenty-mile walk, 
 I cannot undertake to determine, but certainly no yomig gentleman 
 was ever more awfully sleepy. Hardly awake when we reached the 
 cottage. I yawned out '"Where is the trout? " "Your honour is 
 standing on the same." The floor was thickly covered with flags 
 and rushes, which, when partially removed, showed a sight that 
 made me broad awake in a moment. There were fish of 41b., 8lb., 
 121b., 151b. in dozens and dozens. That night my nervous system 
 received a shock so severe, that I did not get over it for a week. 
 How plainly that night comes back to me now ! A thin sti ipling 
 the farthing candle my poor comrade the wretched hut the 
 flags and rushes the dead bodies laid out in decent order, like 
 heroes after a ''stricken field " you must admit the sight was very 
 touching. 
 
 Not being anxious to gain a reputation for "tall talking," it is 
 right to say that at this time I was not a very correct judge of 
 weight ; besides, my head was off, and the light bad. Nevertheless, 
 
82 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 I remember perfectly my companion telling me that in the previous 
 season a trout weighing 311b. had been sent as an offering to Shunes 
 Castle. It is hardly necessary to say this nice little lot had been 
 netted for the Belfast market. 
 
 To-day the lake was without a ripple ; the highlands of the 
 opposite coast looked as mountains look from the sea, faint and far 
 off ; and well they might, for this vast sheet of water is two or three 
 and twenty miles long, and nearly half as much in breadth. It is 
 said to be little less than the Lake of Geneva, and with this excep- 
 tion is only exceeded in Europe by Ladoga in Eussia, and Vener in 
 Sweden. 
 
 The shores, though flat, looked very lovely in the misty light of a 
 scorching sun. The rich woods of Lord Massereene, and the 
 grounds of Shunes Castle, were all in keeping with the scene, so 
 peaceful, that it seemed like an idle legend to tell how the good old 
 earl, shot to death by the rebels, was borne through these grounds 
 to take a last brief possession of all that an hour before was his. So 
 we chatted and floated lazily along, our boatmen taking their time, 
 like the ducks and coots, who hardly thought it worth while to 
 hurry themselves on our account. 
 
 Our host at the O'Neil Arms, well skilled in the gentle craft, 
 gave a cheering account of our prospects ; engaged Edward Mac 
 Ilroy as the best guide ; and added, that if we did not kill 201b. on 
 Monday, we ought so to do. With the fly, the largest fish are of 
 course rarely attainable ; the troll would, I feel sure, reveal greater 
 mysteries. 
 
 Mr. Mac Ilroy was punctual as the clock, and discoursed at length 
 on the merits of the cross line at say." ' Wasn't there room for 
 all ? and shure, gintlemen here should do as they plased." Had he 
 affirmed there were whales in this Mediterranean, perhaps I might 
 have believed him ; at all events, the space was large enough. 
 
 The usual style of lake angling was the order of the day a pair 
 of flies, sometimes three claret, fiery-brown, orange, black and 
 olive ; quite the ordinary mode of doing business. 
 
 The breakwater was first to be tried, and as there was plenty of 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBELAND. 83 
 
 wind, our chance was good. All change is agreeable, even if it be 
 from better to worse ; so we set to in high hope and spirits. 
 "There's a rise ; I doubt your honour didn't see him." His honour 
 had seen him, and struck as hard as Mr. Mac Uroy himself would 
 have done at some dearly-beloved neighbour in a scrimmage so 
 hard, indeed, as to leave half the light casting-line in his mouth. 
 The damage was soon repaired, and at it we went again. " There's 
 another." This time it was all right. How stoutly these Lough 
 Neagh men fight it cost full ten minutes to get a 2^1b. fish into 
 the net certainly the sport here is very pretty. Now we got a 
 small one of 12oz. or 14oz. : by and by, another of three times that 
 weight ; and by dinner time had nearly satisfied the expectations of 
 the chief of the O'Neil Aims. Perhaps the reader would like to 
 see the slain. WeU, here they are : Sjlb., 31b., 2:ilb., 21b., 21b., 
 21b., 21b., fib. 
 
 Let no stranger pass Toom Bridge in the season without 
 trying his fortune. The following day we were not quite so 
 successful, yet we got one four-pounder, and five or six more from 
 21b. to|lb. 
 
 I had for some days been expecting a summons to Dublin on 
 business, which might detain us a few days in the capital. This 
 evening it came, and we started in an hour after ; slept in Belfast, 
 and reached Gresham's in good time. Happily, the cause of the 
 visit was a pleasant one merely to receive a small legacy of 50/. 
 All old towns look especially interesting by night ; but, owing to 
 the extent of the squares, the remarkable beauty of the public 
 buildings, and the crowded quays, Dublin is particularly charming. 
 Strolling down Sackville-street, after a friend's good dinner and 
 better wine, I felt to the full how beautiful the old city was. The 
 moon was high, and shed a glory on the noble column of the Hero 
 of Trafalgar. The Post-ofiice, the river, the Bank of Ireland, and 
 the College, each and all looked their best. Stephen's-green and 
 Merrion -square showed all their charms, whilst the witching light 
 concealed some of their defects. So near was it, that I could not 
 choose but turn to the left, into Erne-street, to look at the place in 
 
 G 2 
 
84 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 which was passed the most miserable year of my life. There it was. 
 Even the kind moon would do nothing to cheer it, although she 
 smiled benignly on its opposite neighbour. Shall I ever forget that 
 great gaunt room on the second floor, where I had come to study 
 medicine in the early winter of 1849 ? How vividly that first day 
 came back to me now ! For the previous year I had been free as a 
 bird ; then I could only brood over lost liberty and present drudgery. 
 What was the price of a donkey-cart and tinker's stock-in-trade ? 
 With this at least one could wander at will. Or a pedlar's pack ? 
 that might do anything seemed better than the present lot. That 
 day two books had been purchased the nucleus of a future library: 
 '' Quain's Anatomy," and Muller's Physiology" comfortable little 
 works of about 1000 pages each, large 8vo. The miserable pseudo- 
 physician did not know a muscle from a tendon, the os frontis from 
 the occipital bone. Unable to comprehend a single line, he learned 
 ten pages by rote, laid aside the book, and meditated a last pipe and 
 a pan of charcoal. In occasional hours of moodiness, that horrible 
 room has often appeared before me. Now, having paid it a visit, I 
 hope the ghost has been laid for ever. 
 
 Of Dublin we shall say nothing; of its beautiful surroundings, 
 little. The Wicklow mountains, the Dargle, Killiney Bay, and 
 Howth, have been described a thousand times already ; moreover, 
 we are out of spirits, like Kingsley's lobster ; my Fifty is already in 
 course of transmutation, for here is the door of a poplin manufactory 
 in the Liberties. 
 
 This part of the city is to Dublin what St. Giles's is to London ; 
 yet some of the streets are wide and the houses large, and probably 
 knew much better days " when George the First was king." One 
 of these we entered. The stairs were carpeted with venerable dust ; 
 unmolested spiders' tapestry dimmed the windows ; the looms seemed 
 of the rudest kind ; yet here were produced the fabrics which queens 
 are proud to wear, and tourists unwilling to buy. 
 
 My old acquaintance, Mrs. M., presented me with a bundle of 
 '* thrum silk" for fly tying purposes the best material ever pro- 
 duced, as it can be employed nearly as fine as the thread the spiders 
 
SALMON ANGLIKG IN IRELAND. 85 
 
 were weaving, and, doubled or trebled, proves equal to any work an 
 angler requires. 
 
 A stranger strolling along the quays east of Carlisle Bridge feels 
 at once he is in a land piscatorial. The number and excellence of 
 the tackle shops is extraordinary. From Martyn Kelley's, at the 
 comer of Sackville-street, up to the Four Coui-ts, on either bank of 
 the Liffey, an angler can hardly go wi'ong in search of good things. 
 
 Poor Ettingsall's place knew him no more ; the shutters were up, 
 and the old house wore a mournful and desolate aspect. I trust the 
 good fairies have taken my old friend to Shiny Wall, a place where 
 honest anglers may hope to rest when their work is done. 
 
 The Dublin gut always struck me as remarkably good and cheap ; 
 for dyed hackles, seals' fur, and such like, this is the market for the 
 world. 
 
 Our last day shall be spent on the South Wall a humble name 
 for a great work. Everyone has heard of the beauty of the bay ; 
 and this pier runs far out into its centre 17,754ft. commanding 
 one of the finest views in the world. It was built for the purpose 
 of increasing the current, and so to enable the Liffey to do its 
 own scavenger work. Nearly half-way down this vast mole is " the 
 Pigeon-house," no longer a packet-station, but a great artillery 
 depot. Passing through small mountains of shot, and guns lying 
 peaceably side by side, we reach the longer and outer portion, at the 
 end of which stands the lighthouse. How fresh the sea-breeze felt 
 after the breath of the great city ! 
 
 Yonder lays the ragged hill of Howth ; there Kingston and its 
 noble harbour. Cutters and schooners, barks and steamers, were 
 beating in or running out with the last quarter of flood. Behind 
 lay the great Babel, still and quiet under its canopy of smoke ; the 
 infinite variety of the Wicklow mountains completing the picture. 
 
 Let no stranger depart without seeing what I have feebly tried to 
 paint. He is safe to be sent to gaols, hospitals, squares, cathedrals, 
 and penitentiaries ; but if he desires to gain a just idea of Dublin 
 and its lovely suiTOundings, let him take my advice and come 
 hither. 
 
86 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 It is only a short run by rail to MuUingar, on the platform of 
 which two smiling faces greeted us. Little Mary had taken a lodging, 
 and Willie had engaged a boat ; the fly was ''up/' and all promised 
 fair for the morrow. 
 
 The Green Drake lakes are arranged into two great groups in the 
 counties Westmeath and Sligo. In the former are Belvidere, Lough 
 Owel,, and Dereveragh, cum multis aliis ; in the latter, Loughs Arrow 
 and Gara, and in Roscommon, Lough Ken. It is not asserted that 
 these are the sole waters on which the fly appears very far from it ; 
 but only that they hold a prominent place. For the Sligo lakes 
 Boyle may be considered a central station ; for Belvidere and Lough 
 Owel, our present quarters ; for Dereveragh and the more northern 
 ones, Castle Pollard ; not that either Boyle or Mullingar are in close 
 proximity to their respective waters, for Belvidere, on which the fly 
 rises soonest, is above two miles from the town, and Lough Owel, on 
 which the drake appears latest, is still farther off. This, however, 
 is of small importance, as early fishing is useless, our fair friends not 
 being up and dressed for the fluttering, flirting business of the day, 
 before 10 a.m. Nor am I prepared to say the distance is accurately 
 stated, though I have walked it morning and evening some score of 
 times at any rate, the stroll is a pleasant one on a bright morning 
 in the merry month of May. 
 
 Here, fine weather will not ruin us ; nay, more, in some sort, it 
 may do us good, by bringing us larger flights of the beautiful 
 creatures on whom our sport depends. 
 
 The mode of angling with the "blow line " is so delicate, natural, 
 and deadly, that the trout have no means of judging between what 
 is digestible and what injurious. Even you, my dear sir, if six 
 inches under water, taking your morning meal, would be quite as 
 likely to select the wrong dish as the right one. 
 
8ALM0N ANGLING IN IRELAND. g7 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 He gets his leg over the traces Mullingar Its market population Walk to 
 the Lake The size of its fish as compared with those of Deroveragh and 
 Lough Owel The blow line Mode of using it We drift, and what we do 
 Cooking A dead calm Improving the occasion We talk generalities, take 
 to roach fishing, and determine to go to Dereveragh next morning. 
 
 Tuesday, May 16. 
 The scribe and his friends have now travelled together from extreme 
 south to extreme north, and thence half-way down the eastern side 
 of the island, yet "never a word " has been said about the health, 
 bodily and mental, of the country. Silence more often proceeds from 
 indifference than reticence, yet Heaven knows indifference has 
 nothing to do with my silence. 
 
 But I am bound to " a speciality," and fear, if my tongue is not 
 always in the water, there will be a fearful shout, *' The dog is mad ! 
 mad dog! mad dog! hang him, drown him, stab him, shoot him ! " 
 Still to-day, as half his work is done, the animal feels disposed for a 
 run, and will range a little wide, if the whole ' field " cries out 
 ' 'ware fence." 
 
 ' Ireland, considered Morally, Socially, and Politically " this title 
 looks awfully heavy *' A Brief History of Erin, from the Days of 
 Japhet to the Days of Julius Caesar." I fear the public won't stand 
 it. In these light sketches there is no room for vexed questions, nor 
 has your scribe the least notion of sticking himself in the mud, if he 
 knows it. 
 
 Great has been the improvement in this kindly country within the 
 last fifteen years. Poverty and ignorance, wretched wages, bad 
 tenures, and worse tenements, at that time had reduced her to a 
 melancholy condition. Thank God, these are matters of history ; 
 and each year now adds to the material prosperity of the people. 
 We have better houses and superior food ; wages are more than 
 
88 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 doubled, tailors have hecome a necessity, education lias made 
 great strides, the wild rollicking days are gone, a more healthy 
 "working spirit has taken their place, and sobriety, order, and 
 industry can not only look up. but even walk about without fear 
 of being knocked on the head. To say there is not still much 
 want and misery would be absurd ; but Eome was not built in 
 a day, nor can the most Utopian political economist reasonably 
 expect in a few years to turn poor Ireland into a first-class European 
 swell. Still there is a vast improvement everywhere and in all 
 things ; even when we get up our little drama of treason, the 
 actors are poor and below their parts, and the company un- 
 commonly short-handed. Undoubtedly the mother of our adoption 
 has recently been a little indisposed with a slight attack of Fenian 
 fever ; but there is something hopeful even here, for had not the 
 old dame been sounder in wind and limb than heretofore, she would 
 have been uncommonly ill, with a frightful amount of constitutional 
 disturbance. This malady, has tested her strength, and proved her 
 sound at bottom. Long may she continue to grow better and 
 stronger, more happy, and more wise ! 
 
 In small Irish towns there is always a chronic eruption of market 
 folk, and this morning the street was vocal with the quacking of 
 juvenile ducks, and a constant inquiry from pretty peasant lips, 
 " Is it eggs ye are looking f or ? " Every place does its own business 
 in its own way. Here one man drives a solitary little pig to the 
 fair, and wastes the whole day looking after him ; another pushes 
 a calf along, born since midnight, yet evidently bound for the butcher ; 
 whilst a third sits leisurely down on a bale of home-made freize, and 
 waits patiently for an offer. Along the side-walks coarse delf and 
 crockery arranged themselves barricade-wise ; cabbages, rough smith's 
 work, and manifold varieties of the lollipop species making the 
 market complete. Through all this we made our way, and padded 
 along the white and dusty road towards the lake. 
 
 Though not yet "in the leafy month of June," Belvidere presented 
 as pretty a piece of greenery as need be. The low rich shores were 
 fringed with fine trees nearly to their edge ; cows stood amongst 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBI5LAND. 69 
 
 the sedges gazing sleepily at their own shadows ; and the birds a 
 countless choir were in full rivalry, each one telling his tale of love. 
 
 The first thing to be done was to collect siiffici'^nt bait for the day. 
 Basket in hand, our boatman walked up to some small alder bushes, 
 and began to select the flies which sat in hundreds on the leaves. 
 Those rough fingers of his, how delicately they lifted the beautiful 
 creatures, depositing the brightest-coloured ones each after each 
 under the lid of his little wicker cage ; then we sat down under a 
 tree to an'ange the tackle. The small hook was neatly tied to a 
 strand of the finest gut, which in turn was fastened ^o one end of a 
 skein of floss silk, the other being carefully spliced to the light 
 running line. There was nothing more to be done on shore, so we 
 pushed off, rowed well to \vindward, and commenced our first drift. 
 
 There is some little skill required in this mode of fishing. The fly 
 must sit naturally on the water ; the long sail of soft silk, bellying 
 out before the wind, should keep the gut perpendicularly above the 
 fly ; not an inch of tackle ought to be in the water. Supposing 
 matters to be managed according to description, the fly sailing along 
 foui-teen or fifteen yards in advance of the boat, whilst neither sound 
 nor motion gives warning even to the most wary old stager I say, 
 all things being secundem artem poor trouty has no standard 
 whereby to detect the thief from the true man. 
 
 ' Dear oh ! dear oh-o-o I Was there ever the like ? '" This doleful 
 soliloquy caused me to look towards the bow ; there sat Willie (he 
 had asked for a holiday), his rod straight upright, with the straw- 
 coloured floss floating in the wind, without fly, hook, or gut. The 
 disconcerted professor had one weakness he was vain of his skill : 
 it was necessary, therefore, to account for the accident. 
 
 " Master," he said, with true northern solemnity, " the gut's 
 rotten ; you should look to yourn." 
 
 A quarter of an hour after this there was a light splash ; this time 
 the weed was sound. The game little fish, barely l^lb., fought 
 to the last, and could not be persuaded to enter the net till quite 
 helpless. This, our first prize, at once attracted attention by its 
 great beauty. Belly and sides were of the richest golden hue, and 
 
90 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 if we add that the gi'eatest possible breadth and depth were com- 
 bined with the least possible length, the reader will have a fair 
 idea of a Belvidere trout in May. Then the stern got a little job ; 
 by and by bow was again fortunate ; and so we fished and floated, 
 every now and then pulling to windward for a fresh drift. About 
 half -past two an excellent " rise" came over the lake ; opposite a low- 
 wooded point on the eastern shore I struck a fish, evidently a good 
 one, and in a second after Willie's turn came. The difficulty was 
 to prevent fouling ; so long as skill could do it, they were kept 
 apart ; but after ten or twelve minutes' manoeuvring, a cross became 
 inevitable. One fish was raised as much as the delicate tackle would 
 afford ; rods were exchanged, and the danger was over ; but half an 
 hour expired before both were on board, and they proved by far the 
 best we took in Belvidere during our stay, the pair weighing nothing 
 less than 101b. Soon after this success the ''rise" fell off, and 
 before five o'clock had ceased. But we had not yet done with the 
 trout, as the chef requested permission, or rather announced his 
 intention of dressing a fish dinner for '' the mistress." About seven 
 p.m. getting savagely hungry, the cook's proceedings became of 
 considerable interest. Before the fire, on a spit, one of the big ones 
 was roasting, and at the moment of my entrance was being basted 
 lavishly with butter, without the least regard to the price of that 
 article. In a kettle on the hob, the other was boiling in water, 
 judiciously flavoured with salt and chili vinegar ; on the gridiron a 
 two-pounder, split with masterly smoothness, was done to a tuni. 
 Though not fond of fish, and hating fish dinners, it was impossible 
 to deny that the chefs performance was admirable, and that for 
 colour and flavour a Belvidere trout is a marvellous dainty. So at 
 least thought the cook, who that night went to bed at an early 
 hour, much indisposed ^the prominent symptoms being nausea and 
 suffocation. 
 
 At the usual hour we were again by the side of the lake ; not a 
 breath of air stirred its glassy surface ; but as wind and water are 
 uncertain to a proverb, we gathered bait, pulled into the widest 
 part, and waited patiently for what might happen. Nothing, how- 
 
SALMON ANOLINO IN IRELAND. 91 
 
 ever, occurred to better our condition, so having beached the boat* 
 we lay down under a tree to lunch. Had a Cuyp or Sidney Cooper 
 been there, he might have stocked his portfolio for life. How 
 exquisite were the colours, 
 
 By Nature's own sweet and cunning hand laid on ! 
 
 how deep the tranquil enjoyment of such a time and place ! Does 
 this feeling arise from the possession of simple habits and tastes, 
 mere idleness, or dislike of restraint; or is it that, getting out of the 
 world, we get out of nine-tenths of the annoyances, vexations, shines, 
 rows, scrimmages, and infernal hullabaloos that sour our tempers 
 and bring on the gout ? 
 
 Perhaps a little of each made up the sum of lazy delight with 
 which I flung myself down in the fragrant fern, and listened to the 
 drowsy song of ten thousand gnats, and the more drowsy hum of my 
 companions. 
 
 Several boats were floating idly on the lake, at least half of which 
 contained one or more of our countrymen, with whom Mullingar is 
 a favourite haunt. No doubt it is an excellent quarter, though 
 personally I should prefer the quieter waters of Sligo and Roscommon, 
 and make Boyle head-quarters during the too brief reign of the 
 Drake. 
 
 The trout in all the lakes differ widely from each other, in colour, 
 size, and shape. Let us compare for a moment those of the water 
 before us with the denizens of Dereveragh and Lough Owel. The 
 fish of Belvidere are smaller than those of Dereveragh, which in turn 
 are less than those of Lough Owel, but in my judgment they excel 
 all others in form and flavour. In the clear springs of Lough Owel 
 the trout are silvery and very fine ; one weighing 12-^lb. being killed 
 in our boat, as will be shown hereafter, and another as large or 
 larger as was asserted by competent authority hooked and lost. 
 Li Dereveragh 41b., 51b., 61b., and 71b. are figures not uncommon, and 
 in colour and proportion they hold a medium position as compared 
 with their kinsfolk in the two lakes so frequently mentioned, being 
 less brilliant than the one, and less heavy than the other. 
 
92 A YEAE OF LIBEETY ; OR, 
 
 All this time we were lolling lazily in tlie sweet green fern, whilst 
 the gnats sang to the accompaniment of Willie's bagpipe ; but now 
 another sound, compovmded of sucking, sighing, and splashing, made 
 itself heard among the sedges. Curious to see what was the matter, 
 I walked quietly to the margin ; there hundreds of roach were 
 swallowing the Mayflies, gobbling the caddis, and amusing them- 
 selves in various ways, every now and then flying off at a tangent as 
 a perch sailed past, with his bright mischievous eye, and spears set 
 ready for battle. A trace was rigged, for bottom-fishing by the time 
 our quiet steady guide had scratched up some woims, with which we 
 stepped into the boat, and pushed a few fathoms from the shore, 
 leaving Willie, who had a mortal aversion to the whole family of the 
 Lumbrici, to do as he pleased. Twick, twick, twick first enters a 
 small perch, next a smaller, then a fine one over a pound. The 
 deserted professor, too, thought it worth his while to be up and 
 doing. Eoach were a new study, and he set to work zealously, in 
 order to improve the occasion, by dapping or sinking and drawing 
 with the Drake. His acquisition of knowledge was rapid ; every 
 two or three minutes a silvery flash showed how well he was getting 
 on. A couple of hours at this style of thing was enough to give a 
 dinner to twelve little boys, at a rate of eight per head. This lavish 
 extravagance brought its own punishment ; henceforward we were 
 regularly waylaid on our return by the entire youthful population, 
 who seemed to consider your scribe as a keeper who was bound to 
 supply " the house." Ambushes were artfully constructed in 
 unexpected places, and on several occasions happy was I to escape 
 utter spoliation. In these moments of peril, our boatman was a host 
 in himself a finer or more sturdy fellow you could not find between 
 the Land's End and Cape Wrath. He spoke honestly, reasoned 
 correctly, wrote a fair hand, and, what is more, spelt well an 
 accomplishment by no means necessarily attendant on caligraphy. 
 He was not one of your plastic Larrys or Micks drawn by writers 
 of funny Irish stories ; he was something much better a brave, 
 straightforward man, and, I believe, a fair specimen of his time and 
 class ; if so, the land has reason to be proud of her sons. The witty, 
 
SALMON ANQLINO IN IRELAND. 93 
 
 careless, improvident animal, who makes you laugh in books, or 
 gi-ins and roars his brief hour behind the footlights, is not generally 
 met with in common life. Among the car drivers of Dublin, Cork, 
 and Waterford he is still to be seen, as also among the guides and 
 boatmen of Killarney. With these the science of chafif is parti}' 
 traditional, partly acquired ; they are actors, and. like other 
 perfoi-mers. earn a salary in the ratio of their merits. 
 
 The glorious sun went to bed with a very red face : the clouds, his 
 gentlemen ushers, clad in crimson, bowed low in the west, and the 
 night was waim and calm from all which signs any baby could tell 
 you how small was the chanco of wind on the morrow. So before 
 " turning in," we decided on an early start for Castle Pollard, and 
 hope to find a change for the better when we return. 
 
 CHAPTER XVn. 
 
 Contains nothing about the Killing, though a good deal concerning the Curing 
 of Salmon The Day ends better than it promised. 
 
 May 17. 
 L'homme propose, Dieu dispose. We are but poor creatures. Last 
 night it was determined to make an early start for Castle Pollard ; 
 this morning a crushing sick headache put such a move altogether 
 out of the question. Fortunately, my present disagi'eeable inmate 
 seldom pays me a visit ; but even twice in the year is more often 
 than I wish to see him. Of course he will keep me at home all day. 
 Well, if he does, we'll be even with him, and dish up a blue pill and 
 a black draught, instead of soup and fish. What a bore it is to be 
 laid up in a country town ! I have sent out to forage for books, and 
 the messenger brings back an ancient number of the Gentleman s 
 Magazine, with the martyrdom of St. Anthony, of some place which 
 did not exactly appear, the title-page being considerably the worse 
 
94 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OB, 
 
 for wear. Since there is nothing to read, we must try to write. 
 What shall it be ? May we assert " the waters of the United 
 Kingdom are capable of producing a weight of animal food equal to 
 the land ? " The very thing : such a theme will do exactly, as it 
 will not take us much out of the road we are bound to travel. 
 
 Some years since this text was one on which I often held forth, 
 till at length my small congregation would stand it no longer. The 
 hearers, less polite than sincere said, ' Come now, old fellow, don't 
 bore us any more ; we all know there are a good many things which 
 ought to be, and are not, and this amongst the number." Occasionally 
 I took up my parable, but it would not do, for my friends, driven to 
 frenzy, were becoming dangerous. Silenced, but not convinced, I 
 held my tongue and retained my opinion. Fortunately, these insane 
 animals are the other side of the water now, so I am safe, and need 
 not fear either horns or hoofs. Well, then, our waters ought to 
 yield as much good food as the land how shall we set about their 
 cultivation ? The farmer's maxim is, "he is the best beast which 
 attains the largest quantity of flesh and fat with the least food in the 
 shortest time." Now, the salmon fits into this definition of '' the 
 best beast " exactly, for he costs his owner not a penny for 
 provender : of course he must be taken care of, but the outlay is 
 nothing in the ratio of the profit. It is not all aqueous farms, 
 however, that can be thus stocked. Those only which have a 
 reasonably good outlet can be so dealt with ; other waters must be 
 filled as the Acclimatisation Society deem best ; I hope they won't 
 insist on too many Siluri. 
 
 What a comfort it is for a poor fellow to find a great man patting 
 his hobby. Now a very great man, in his book on the salmon, writes, 
 '' The weight of ' fish ' produced by the Spey is equal to the weight 
 of mutton annually yielded to the butcher by each of several of the 
 smaller counties." If the Spey supplies the mutton, would not the 
 other rivers and lakes more than make up the beef, veal, and pork ? 
 Of course they would, for in this calculation the king of fishes is 
 alone taken into account ; and it must be remembered that the 
 water, unlike the land, can bear two crops at one and the same 
 
SALMON ANGLINQ IN IBELAND. 95 
 
 time. Even his worst enemies cannot charge him with stealing the 
 bread from the mouths of any of his relations. They (unnatural 
 beasts as they are) eat up as many of the children belonging to our 
 harmless silvery friends as they can catch ; but poor Salmo does not 
 retaliate he humbly asks to come with his wife during the period 
 of her lying-in, promising to return to the great city from whence 
 he came on the first convenient opportunity. In due time his 
 children follow, grow to be men and women, and do as their 
 forefathers did. But here we meet a difficulty, * the half-and-half 
 theory," which arises out of the question, " At what age do the pan- 
 put on their gala dress and set out on their travels ? " One man, 
 after diligent investigation, finds they migrate at one year ; another, 
 after equally praiseworthy labour, learns that they depart at two. 
 Something is to be advanced in support of each opinion ; so, by way 
 of smoothing down contending parties, a peaceable Christian observes, 
 " Well, well, it doesn't signify much you need not quarrel about it; 
 some shall go this year and some the next." All the little boys and 
 girls in my street (your pardon, my children young ladies and 
 gentlemen) number, perhaps, two hundred. When one hundred of 
 these at twelve or thirteen years become adepts in geography and 
 Greek, music and the fine arts, plain work and etiquette, and are, 
 in fact, really fit for the serious business of life, whilst the other 
 hundred are dressing dolls and playing marbles when I see this 
 unusual state of things, then, and not till then, will I believe the 
 "half-and-half theory." Nature is guided by one invariable law. 
 All my young ducks are feathered about the same time. Our dear 
 mother does not ordinarily work by miracles, and it would be 
 miraculous indeed if half the paiT in any river, exposed to the same 
 temperature, bom about the same time, and fed with the same food, 
 were to dress like young beaux and go forth into the world, whilst 
 the other half were content to stay at home in the nursery. Would 
 it not be better to suppose even the ablest observers in error, than to 
 adopt an opinion which requires for its support a violation of well- 
 known natural laws ? But all this has little to do with our thesis. 
 The rivers will not give us their beef and mutton till cultivated, and 
 
96 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 talking will not stock them. There has been too much of this 
 already. Theory is an excellent thing in its place, but, if exceeding 
 due limit, it fetters practice ; in which case philosophy does more 
 hann than good. A gamekeeper might not be able to say exactly 
 how many cocks are required for a given number of hen pheasants, 
 in order to produce the best results ; yet, if the coverts were 
 unstocked till the question was settled, we should be obliged to pay 
 more than 7s. 6d a brace for our birds.* 
 
 Let each owner of a river set to work himself, instead of watching 
 how some more enterprising neighbour fares with Mb undertaking ; 
 then theory will soon be corrected by practice ; out of work will come 
 experience, and from experience knowledge. The whole thing lies 
 in a nutshell. Stock the rivers there are plenty of ways in which 
 it can be done ; let a sufficient number of fish pass up to the 
 spawning beds ; take care of them when there ; and see that the 
 little ones are not hurt as they toddle downstairs in search of the 
 hall door, and from thence into the high road of nations. When 
 this is done I think it will be found that the parr enter into 
 society at two years old ; that they return as grilse the same 
 autumn ; and in the following spring or summer (as the case may 
 be) come to pay us a visit and leave their cards as Mr. Salmon. 
 There ; we have put our foot into it with a witness, and shall 
 possibly receive a rap over the knuckles for having an opinion. If 
 we must, we must ; but believe me, gentlemen, you will have all 
 the switching to yourselves. I shall bear with patience, and suffer 
 without retaliation. Let us return to the starting point once more 
 for a moment. If the Spey produces as great a weight of salmon as 
 some of the smaller counties do of mutton, what would the whole 
 county in which the Spey wanders produce, if all its rivers and 
 lakes rendered their due proportion ? Why, a great deal more. But 
 
 * Since the above was written, there is every reason to believe that this 
 argument, however specious, is incorrect. In fact experiment, so much more 
 potent than hypothesis, has proved the ''half-and-half" theory to be true; 
 still as the doctrine is not yet generally accepted, the text (though in our 
 opinion erroneous) has been allowed to stand. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBELAND. 97 
 
 is it certain that even the water in question can give no more ? If 
 to this be added the consideration that salmon constitutes only one 
 crop, and that these water farms are capable of producing two crops 
 at the same time, may we not say of our thesis, Q.E.D. ? The 
 question of the age of the smolt, and the time of the return of the 
 grilse, are matters in no way affecting the success of the fish farmer. 
 The one icill go down, and the other will come up, in his season ; 
 vet that the adolescent salmon returns to the rivers after an 
 uncertain period, ranging from five or six weeks to three months 
 is, I believe, indisputable. 
 
 In "mine own" especial water, about the last week in May, small 
 grilselets (from one pound to twice that weight) appear. These 
 gi-adually grow larger, till about the 10th or 12th of June they begin 
 to be stopped by -'the breast" of the cutts. Previously they were 
 able to slip through the opposing bars. Does not this seem to 
 favour the idea of a rapid but continuous growth ? The average 
 weight of grilse may be taken at from 5-|-lb. to 61b. ; had they been 
 roaming the seas for fifteen months, would it not be reasonable to 
 suppose they would have attained a more uniform size in fact, have 
 reached their majority ? We certainly see some men of six feet, 
 whilst others are only five feet seven inches ; but, taken as a whole, 
 men are pretty uniform in height, and all the inferior animals 
 race, food and temperature, being taken into account are likewise 
 unifonn ; but why one young gentleman salmon should be five or six 
 times as big as another of the same age, I cannot understand. The 
 lifference may be accounted for if we suppose growth to be at the 
 rate, let us say, of one pound per week, and the difference of time 
 between the capture in the same ratio but hardly if we accept the 
 ** two years theoiy." 
 
 This paper is so thin that anything heavy would make a hole in 
 it. Philosophy must be written not on straw, but extra fool. Should 
 any reader, however, desire wisdom, let him read the second chapter 
 of Mr. Russell's admirable book, where he will find wit and wisdom, 
 kindness and good temper happily blended into a very pleasant 
 mixture. If there is a dash of the lemon, there is plenty of sugar- 
 
 H 
 
98 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 and as the spirit comes from his private still, we may be sure the 
 author of "The Salmon" has provided "the material" in full 
 quantity and quality to wash down his fish. 
 
 If there be one thing I hate more than another, it is argument. 
 It may make enemies, but never yet cemented friendship ; and as for 
 conviction, who ever was convinced by it ? The rule is, argue with 
 a doubter, and you make him an infidel ; bother a man who has no 
 opinions, and you make him as obstinate as a mule. Oh, I hate 
 arguing! and if anyone said, '"Pray allow me to convince you that 
 the moon is composed of green cheese," I believe I should make him 
 a bow, with " Sir, I am entirely of your opinion." 
 
 With a sigh of relief the pen was here laid aside. I was on the 
 point of meditating a pipe, so of course felt better. Through the 
 window came a pleasant air, rustling the white dimity curtains. 
 Outside the door, too, there was a whispering, but not of the summer 
 air. With a light knock, Willie entered. " There's a nice breeze 
 a-just springing up," he said, " and a light bar of clouds to the 
 windward ; maybe, master, it would do you good to see them, and 
 Michael has a prime basket of drakes." Fully calculating that the 
 invalid was hors de combat, he had doubtless intended to enjoy 
 the day in a private piscatorial manner ; but the unexpected 
 rising of the wind and clouds brought the faithful fellow back to 
 see if his master could be tempted. 
 
 Vexation on the score of Dereveragh was nearly over so was 
 the argument so was the headache ; and by the time we reached 
 the shore the vapours grew lighter and lighter, and so faded away 
 out of sight. 
 
 Till after midday the lake had been impracticable, and now this 
 marked and unlooked-for change evidently made the fish in a most 
 obliging frame of mind. They received, as it were, an unexpected 
 windfall, and seemed disposed to make the most of it. Near our 
 end of the lake three boats were drifting, into two of which trout 
 were lifted as we approached, whilst the third appeared more heavily 
 engaged with the enemy. We had been watching this one perhaps 
 for twenty minutes, and -ten more elapsed before we came within 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 99 
 
 hail ; " Pray keep farther off, sir ; I have got a splendid trout, and 
 would not lose him for the world." We lay on our oars, and shortly 
 after saw a very nice fish secured. ** I have to beg your pardon," 
 said my new acquaintance, whose neat dress and neater appoint- 
 ments savoured strongly of dear old London, " for calling to you just 
 now : pray excuse me ; in the excitement of the moment, I may 
 have been a little delirious. But do just look here ; did you ever 
 see such a beauty?" It was certainly a capital specimen of a 
 Belviderian, weighing from 4^1b. to 51b. Never but once before had 
 I seen mortal creature so happy. He trembled all over with 
 pleasurable excitement, and his voice shook whilst inviting me to 
 admu-e the goddess of his idolatry. Had I at that moment announced 
 him heir to 1000/. a-year, I do not believe he would have cared one 
 farthing for the intelligence ^he was so full of joy, there was no 
 room for more. I was reminded of my first salmon, which, speaking 
 coiTectly, was but a miserable grilse of 41b., yet the world never 
 held such a glorious creature. I dared not touch my prize, lest I 
 should defile it. Shape, colour, all came back to me now, with the 
 happy exaggeration of that hour. The pocket handkerchief was again 
 wetted, and the immortal one carefully swathed therein. No young 
 mother ever carried her firstborn so tenderly as I bore that wi'etched 
 little brown fish home. Placed in the largest dish the house con- 
 tained, I worshipped him. Had a painter been near 1 0/. would have 
 been cheap for his likeness. I wanted to have him embalmed. I 
 longed passionately to take him to bed. Ah me ! I shall never 
 again meet such another. The redskins in their happy hunting 
 grounds enjoy for ever and ever the zest of the first chase, 
 and now here, in this work-day world, stood a man feeling what I 
 once felt. How I envied him ; yet had his story been known to me 
 then, perhaps my envy had been less. 
 
 That night, over a quiet cigar, he told me that ten years had 
 elapsed since he had touched a rod. "I was in Cumberland then," 
 he said, '' with my brother ; over-fatigue brought on fever, 
 which ended fatally, and then I lost the dearest friend I ever had, 
 or ever shall have. Till to-day I never dared to look at it, 
 
 H 2 
 
100 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 and now " with a smile on his lip and a tear in his eye " I 
 am half ashamed of being so happy. Poor Ned, had he only been 
 here !" 
 
 As to numbers, this proved our best day on the lake ; for three 
 hours " the rise ' ' was incessant : twenty-three fish came to our lot, 
 the odd one falling to the share of the professor, who noticed the 
 fact with a solemn countenance and an ill-concealed triumph. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 We go to Castle Pollard Fish Dereveragh for two days Return to MuUingar 
 and Belvidere Visit our old acquaintance Lough Owel And set out for 
 Boyle. 
 
 May 29, 6 a..m. 
 This morning our little household is in a high state of activity. 
 Madame et sa femme de chamhre, in full travelling costume, are hard 
 at work, cramming into a cai-pet-bag articles which by no possibility 
 can be required. Such an opinion being expressed, the cry, " Turn 
 him out, turn him out !" is too unanimous to be resisted objector 
 instantly silenced. Willie, too, is there, locking the basket which 
 holds all our manufacturing treasures. " You are surely not going 
 to drag that to Castle Pollard, when all we can want will be a few 
 small hooks and some light gut !" 
 
 " Sure and I am, though," said he, deliberately placing the strap 
 over his shoulder. " How much would we expect to see else when 
 we cum back ? May be, if an honest gintleman looked thim things 
 over, we might find the kiver, or even the bottom ; sorra a thing 
 else." 
 
 No larks in the world are so light-hearted and vocal as those in 
 the dear island ; the whole summer business of their happy lives 
 seems to be singing from morning till night, and now, having break- 
 fasted, they were up in the blue sky carolling gloria in excdsis. I 
 
SALMON ANGLINQ IN IBELAN. 101 
 
 rather envied those birds. No morning meal for me, nor any imme- 
 diate prospect of such a thing ; the car is safe not to be at that 
 wretched roadside station to which we are bound ; should it by 
 any extraordinary luck be waiting, a trace may break ; then the 
 driver must stop at least four times to light his pipe ; whilst the 
 landlord will not suppose we want anything at such an hour ; then 
 perhaps, I shall remember being coughed down, and growl at being 
 twitted with always wanting food at inconvenient times. Now, this 
 is one way in which good people get into a pet before there is any 
 occasion ; for the car did meet us, breakfast was ready, and the 
 account of the fishing highly favourable. Yesterday several six and 
 seven pounders were bagged, and one rod was reported to have killed 
 sixteen fish. For the next hour it will be useless to embark, so we 
 may employ the time in taking a more extended view of the 
 lakes in Westmeath, Sligo, and Eoscommon than we have hitherto 
 done. 
 
 Hitherto they have only been considered with reference to the 
 drake, which in general is supposed to be the Alpha and Omega ; 
 but, like many other ai-ticles of popular faith, this is an eiTor. Nor 
 am I quite prepared to admit that the May-fly fishing offers the best 
 sport these waters can show ; for it must be remembered that, with 
 very few exceptions, they hold pike and perch, as well as trout, and 
 that the Percidcp here run large, three and four pounders being 
 nothing remarkable. It is not difficult, therefore, to imagine how 
 excellent the trolling must be, either before or after the reign of 
 Prince Draco. With the fly, trout are of course only to be taken, 
 but in spinning, the angler goes in for all ; far heavier bags are to 
 be made, and, besides, there is the charm of variety. You get hold 
 of something heavy, and for ten or twelve minutes are in a delicious 
 state of uncertainty as to what you have got. I have heard several 
 gentlemen, whose property lay in the district, and whose opinions 
 might well be considered conclusive, say they preferred April, July, 
 August, September, and October, to May. Of course the blow-line 
 will always have warm advocates ; its delicacy, deadliness, and the 
 skill required in using it successfully, deserve all that can be said in 
 
102 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 its praise ; yet still, you may take my word for it, the early and late 
 fishing on these glorious lakes is not to be despised. 
 
 If poor Mac's politeness, not to say his reason, is to be preserved, 
 we must huiTy to the shore, and Willie must be informed that he 
 has no right whatever to improve another gentleman's property 
 against his consent. 'Twould make any Irieh saint swear to see him. 
 He has positively turaed Mr. M'Cutcheon's yacht bottom upwards ; 
 probably, too, has called her '''an old basket," and, with a stone for 
 a mallet, and an old knife instead of a caulking-iron, is actually 
 hammeiing "lint" into the seams. That fellow's impudence 
 "beats all." 
 
 Castle Pollard is situated about the same distance from Dere- 
 veragh as Boyle and Mullingar are from their respective lakes 
 that is to say, about three miles. With such charming sites at 
 command, it seems strange that neither of these towns should have 
 availed themselves of the advantage. In the good old times, when 
 every man brewed for himself, water, perhaps, was considered a 
 dangerous element. K this be not deemed a good reason why the 
 towns above mentioned were placed as far as possible out of its 
 reach, I regret being unable to offer a better. Dereveragh, seven 
 miles long by three broad, though not possessing beauty of a striking 
 character, is yet well worth a visit for its quiet loveliness ; so, at 
 least, I thought, as we ran our boat over the pebbles into its clear 
 waters, smiling and dimpling in the summer sun. 
 
 With a long drift before us, my Jidus Achates seated himself on 
 the bottom boards, and commenced a fly for the Erne. " I've got 
 him ! " The artist merely glances at the eddy caused by the 
 descending fish, and then, for more correct information, at the curve 
 of the rod. "He won't be ready these ten minutes." Neverthe- 
 less, the handle of the net is brought across his kness, and the 
 golden hackle wound with admirable precision at the front of each 
 roll of tinsel. Then he looks about him once more, and selects four 
 toppings of the exact length required, and sets them carefully on. 
 Shall he produce any further ? He is doubtful as to the propriety of 
 opening a paper containing sprigs of bustard, mallard, ruff, and the 
 
6ALM0N ANGLING IN IRELAND. 108 
 
 like. This should be done carefully, especially in the wind; so, 
 placing the half-finished parson between his lips, he gets up just at 
 the right time, and does his work with the usual neatness. '' Nigher 
 six than five and a half/' he observes, when calmly crimping the 
 unfortunate, "and the mistress shall have him roasted for lunch." 
 The sport soon grew admirable no quarter of an hour passed 
 without some event. Three were lost in succession by the mouth 
 giving way ; next five were secured without accident, of 21b., 31b., 
 S^lb., 51b., and o^lb., and then the best fish of the day was hooked. 
 How he laughed at the gossamer thread which held him ; it seemed 
 mere pastime to dart off with fifty yards, and throw a somersault 
 that would have made Blondin sick with envy ; but we must all die, 
 even as this strong and beautiful creature, who was put out of pain 
 so suddenly by a judicious rap on the occiput as not to hear the 
 executioner remark, "'Deed now, master, but he draws eight and 
 a half." About midday the breeze fell off, and the trout, after 
 " tiffin," lay down for a siesta under " the glassy, cool, transparent 
 wave," as Milton sings. The chef had not forgotten his gracious 
 promise, and proposed landing and lunch, an offer the entire ship's 
 crew hailed with three cheers. Did you never see fish roasted sub 
 Jove ? Well, I hope you soon will, of your own catching too ; 
 meanwhile, allow me to tell you how an experienced cook did it : 
 From yonder cabin some live coals, supported on an armful of peats, 
 are brought there are plenty of stones on the beach for our fire- 
 place the glowing cinders are piled in the centre, the turf arranged 
 on end in contact with them, and some bits broken to fill up the 
 crater. The mess consists of five, and the caterer serves out a 
 six-pounder and a four. The fish is ready as soon as the fire, cut 
 in slices, with a peeled osier inserted into each. These are placed 
 upright before the fire (supported by a long sod cut for the purpose), 
 and dexterously turned by the forefinger and thumb of the accom- 
 plished chef. If this meat be eaten, as good old Izaak says, with a 
 thankful heart and good appetite, in my opinion it won't disagree 
 with you. 
 
 The boa, after sucking down a sheep, requires forty-eight hours' 
 
104 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OB, 
 
 repose before again feeling comfortable. Some of the crew felt 
 exceedingly like boas after dinner. But the breeze was once more 
 pla\ring a game of romps with the lake before going to rest, and two 
 heavily-gorged animals had to be roused into what was unquestion- 
 abty a painful state of activity. Again the sport brightened up as 
 before, but in a couple of hours the wind sank for the night, and we 
 pulled for the shore over a long stretch of water, whose surface was 
 smooth as polished glass. Ten fish lay on the grass, two more were 
 chiefly carried by parties whose names are sacred ; one dozen in all. 
 Well done, Dereveragh ! 
 
 If required to name the day on which the May-fly makes its first 
 annual visit to this lake, I should fix on the 18th of May. Of 
 course a long and cold spring retards the development of the 
 caddis, in the same degree that warmth and sunshine contribute to 
 its more early maturity. No season could be more genial than the 
 present, and as a consequence the drake "was up " some days prior 
 to the date above mentioned. Indeed, these beautiful insects had 
 fluttered away half their bright brief lives when we anived; but 
 the sport had reached its climax, for the trout, fully alive to the 
 dainty, were not as yet surfeited with it. 
 
 A twice-told tale grows wearisome, however well narrated, and 
 must especially be avoided in a work so unpretending as this. 
 Suffice it, then, to say our second day proved less productive than 
 the preceding, both as to number and size, for out of eight fish 
 brought to bag, one only reached 5^1b. And now standing, perhaps 
 for the last time, on the shores of Dereveragh, I could not but turn 
 to take one long lingering look at the place where two such happy 
 days had been passed. In this uncertain and anxious life who would 
 not feel grateful to a spot where he had found such wealth ? Then the 
 thought so common to man rose within me, " Shall I ever visit it 
 again, and will there be no one of the dear faces now round me 
 absent for ever ?" Instinctively I drew closer to them, as if (idle 
 dream !) proximity gave security. In sober mood I drove back to 
 Connel, paid our moderate bill, and set off for MuUingar as the 
 shades of evening began to gather round us. 
 
SALMON ANOLTNO IN TBELAND. 105 
 
 The reader may like to know that he can be boarded at the 
 Pollard Arms for 21. lis. per week, which includes car-hire to and 
 from the lake each morning and evening. When it is considered 
 that for this sum he has first-rate fishing, bed and sitting rooms, 
 three meals a day, and twelve drives, I think no reasonable man 
 would object to the charge. 
 
 Beautiful Belvidere lay sleeping lazily in the sun, as fresh and fair 
 as when I left her, and as she will do a hundred years hence when 
 some stranger comes to say farewell, as I do now. We have an 
 affection for this water, for it was the first on which our blow-line 
 ever sailed. Often, when hundreds and hundreds of miles away she 
 has visited me, smiling as she now smiles, and that dear familiar 
 face has comforted me in anxiety and soothed me in sorrow. What 
 could a friend do more ? True, like many other early companions, 
 she has not proved " all my fancy painted," for I have since found 
 many more trustworthy. But pray, have not you, sir, some early 
 acquaintance of whom you feel rather ashamed, and long since 
 acknowledged undeserving your regard, to whom you cling, never- 
 theless, merely for the sake of old times? Such weakness is 
 doubtless im worthy a philosopher; but then I make no pretensions 
 to so high a caste, and without shame ?ay, the memory of " young 
 love" is very sweet. After Dereveragh, my quiet friend seemed 
 tame and dull, and at three p.m. I bade her adieu, leaving the men 
 to take the boat to Lough Owel, and bring back " the game" eleven 
 head, no one of which weighed 31b. 
 
 Lough Owel bears little resemblance to her sisters, being sur- 
 rounded by shores far more bold, broken, and bare. Lying in a vast 
 rocky basin, composed probably of limestone, its clearness and 
 purity are remarkable. Over its entire surface myriads of bubbles 
 rise from unknown springs, and, in fact, the lake is one vast fountain 
 of delicious water. This, combined probabljr with the clean bottom, 
 gives the trout the peculiarly silver}'- character that distinguishes 
 them from all others with which I am acquainted. We found our 
 boat drawn up on the south-east comer, near a circular fairylike 
 island, planted with larch and flowering shrubs, and, launching, 
 
166 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 pulled for the western side, in order to make our first drift towards 
 a high headland on the opposite side. Lough Owel was a special 
 favourite with Willie, being, as he said, a place where a fish in 
 earnest might be killed," so I gave him a day ; nor was it long 
 before his line was sailing gracefully, far in advance of our humble 
 bark. Here and there, at long intervals, the small circling eddy 
 of some rising fish was seen as we glided on ; but nothing came in 
 our way till within two or three hundred yards of the rocky shore, 
 when a trout sailed up, dexterously sucked off my fly, and dis- 
 appeai'ed. There was a momentary glimpse of a very broad tail. 
 "Out with the paddles, and over him again ! " but before the words 
 were uttered, the folly of the order became apparent. The first dip 
 of the oar would have driven the fish from his ground, so the boat 
 was allowed to float silently on ; accurate marks were taken, and on 
 reaching the cliff, we pulled cautiously along its base before again 
 taking our station far above the spot where the charming vision 
 faded from our eyes. Every moment made me feel more and more 
 certain of being in the exact line. Now the fly must be within five 
 yards of the place now within two ^now. within one. Can we 
 have passed him ? There is the smallest conceivable rise a back- 
 ward motion of the rod, and such a swirl ! " He's got what he won't 
 get rid of easily. That's fine! Och, but that's beautiful! Ah, 
 master! sure there's nothing like this in ould Ireland, any way at all." 
 Thus spoke my faithful servant, instinctively charging his pipe, 
 whilst a faint smile stole over his honest and sober face. Now 
 rooting at the bottom, now rolling over the surface, again and again 
 flying as if life depended on his speed, what a gallant fish it was ! 
 Little by little his efforts grew more laborious and less effective. 
 Presently the broad tail which led to his destruction, scarcely 
 possessed the power to keep that small head under water. More 
 faintly still he fluttered from the fatal net, now it is over ; nature 
 can do no more, and like a log he is drawn slowly and steadily 
 towards the boat ; another foot and he is safe and on board. I 
 would have walked all the way from Dublin for that one fish. " Ten 
 pounds and a quarter ! No, not quite a quarter (our clerk of weights 
 
SALMON ANGUNG IN IRELAND. 107 
 
 and measures was very precise) call him ten pounds lucky. That's 
 something like a trout." Over and over again the same course was 
 tried, in the hope of meeting another of the same class, but in vain. 
 At length we resigned it reluctautly, and commenced a fresh drift 
 over the broadest part of the lake in a line with Church Island. 
 Half way down the shore of that low rocky reef a good fish rose 
 right ahead. Slowly the fly sailed straight towards him. "What's 
 that ? " My first thought was that Willie, who just before was 
 sitting on the gunwale, had tumbled head-over-heels into the water. 
 But no ; there he sat, composed as ever. " He's an awful monster, 
 master ; as big as a salmon." To jerk the line out, reel sharply up, 
 so as to ensure my companion fair play, was but the work of an 
 instant. Had it not been for that startling plunge he might have 
 been fast in a rock for anything I could see to the contrary. Fish 
 have temperaments various as their captors ; they are shy, bold, 
 cowardly, volatile, sulky, or determined, and the one now under 
 treatment combined the latter qualities in about equal proportions. 
 For a full houi' we saw nothing of him, and all this time had been 
 drifting deeper into the rocky and shallow bay beyond the island. 
 ' Pull, pull, I'm fast ! He's sat down. Oh dear, oh dear ! what 
 will I do ? Pull, puU for your lives ! " A few dashing strokes 
 brought the boat over the exhausted monster ; the line was free, 
 and the battle over. There he lay on the bottom, with his great 
 side leaning against the rock that refused him shelter. The water 
 was barely 5ft. deep ; off went the net, on went the gaff, and then 
 we found leisure to admire our prize. Perfect in make, exquisite 
 in harmony of colour, in weight 131b. truly he was a picture ; 
 glorious in life, beautiful in death, it may be long before his fellow 
 is hung with such a thread. As may be imagined, all that occurred 
 subsequently was tame. Two more, however, of 31b. and olb., 
 wound up the best day I ever saw with the blow line. 
 
 We lived on the lake for the remainder of the week, meeting with 
 fair sport, and on Monday set out for Boyle, where, from intelligence 
 received that morning from Sergeant Nameless, of the Greens, great 
 things seemed to await us. 
 
10$ A YEAR OF liberty; 0% 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Irish Ruins Church Islands Things in General Boyle Lough Gara 
 Lough Key Lough Arrow Prophetic of Good We go to the Erne. 
 
 Boyle, June 8, 
 Ireland lias been called ''the land of ruins." Poets have employed 
 the theme to make us sad orators to make us savage. The former 
 asked only a sentimental tear, but the latter, by party legislation, 
 senseless clamour, abuse, and bigotry, for many and many a year 
 raised men's blood to the boiling point, and scalded poor common 
 sense and charity nearly to death. No one need deny Ireland to be 
 a land of ruins, but this is a far different thing from a ruined land ; 
 and that she does not present this mournful spectacle is certainly 
 not the fault of the oratorical quacks, who not so long since under- 
 took to cure all her earthly ills. She is pre-eminently' a land of 
 ruins, and possesses monuments as old, if not older, than any other 
 country in Europe, which, could they be deciphered, would afford 
 marvellous ethnological interest, and throw a light on peoples and 
 races whose origin, civilisation and habits are now lost. Pictorial 
 blocks, inscribed stones, Cyclopean forts, graceful towers, tumuli, 
 earthworks by lonely strands and stormy headlands, ecclesiastical 
 ruins, military ruins, and, worse than all, clusters of roofless cottages 
 in deserted districts, swept bare by emigration, famine, and fever, all 
 justify her claim to the mournful title. These deserted dwellings 
 fill the stranger with horror, for they force on his consideration 
 fearful pictures of want, sorrow, and suffering, endured before the last 
 miserable creature passed from the spot where so much wretchedness 
 must have been undergone. 
 
 Whilst we renovate and investigate ancient ruins, may Heaven 
 avert new ones from the land ! There is one order, however, which 
 more constantly comes under the angler's notice than under that of 
 other men remains of ecclesiastical edifices on the lakes. Few of 
 
SALMON ANQLINO IN IRELAND. 109 
 
 these waters are without a Church Island, where roofless cells, soli- 
 tary and cnimbling, set us thinking of the dark days which made 
 Buch situations necessary. These lonely spots are singularly inte- 
 resting and suggestive, and without wandering into dreamland the 
 Btranger will be apt to draw two conclusions : from their number 
 that prodigious efforts must have been made to introduce the only 
 true civiliser ; from their situation that the state of society was 
 considerably woi*se than that which existed in New Zealand forty 
 years ago, where the amiable natives did nothing worse than cook 
 a curate occasionally. I do not say that these deductions will be 
 accepted, nor have I any authority for asserting that they are 
 correct ; but if a man locks and bolts his door, puts up iron 
 shutters, fills the moat, and hauls up the drawbridge, it looks as if 
 he rather mistrusted the character of his neighbours, and leads to 
 the belief, that his exhortations to "do as he would be done by ' 
 fell on the wayside. The lot of these poor preachers of peace and 
 goodwill seems to have been cast in evil times ; doubtless, they 
 sowed diligently and reaped a scanty harvest attempted much, but 
 effected little, save to themselves. 
 
 A writer whose wisdom has stood the test of centuries, and will 
 last whilst the world endures, says : " There is nothing new under 
 the sun." Our application of electricity to a few lines of wire is 
 that new ? 'Tis as old as the hills, ay, and a good deal older than 
 any hills with which we are acquainted. Why, the day when the 
 blessed sun first shone on Eden he managed more miles of telegraphic 
 communication than man ever made or will make. Each morning 
 he sent a message to Adam and Eve to rise and be thankful ; every 
 moment he forwarded orders beyond the most advanced pupil 
 teacher's power of numeration, to flower and tree to put forth bud, 
 blossom, and fruit. Well, perhaps, there is nothing new, and we 
 lead a sort of horse-in-the-mill life ; but these animals, being popu- 
 larly supposed blind, fancy perhaps that they are always going 
 straight on. Some of us, too, may be blind and fall into a similar 
 error. We have quitted Mullingar, and are now in Boyle. We have 
 left one set of lakes where we sat all day in the sun and wind. 
 
110 A TEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 reddening our noses and otherwise injuring the complexion, and are 
 conae to another set of lakes where we intend doing the same. There 
 does not seem to be much novelty in this, but for the life of me I 
 cannot get my rebellious members to agree with the dictum. The 
 feet will speed lightly towards Lough Gara, the hand will grasp the 
 rod more eagerly, and the eyes will grow brighter. Bah ! Family 
 quaiTels are intolerable. Peccavi ! peccavi ! There, rebels, will that 
 content you ? and if the plain truth must be spoken : ' Gentlemen 
 of the opposition, I most heartily agree with yoa." 
 
 How joyously we stepped out of Boyle side by side with the 
 strapping sergeant. Names are not things to be lightly mentioned. 
 He might have been sergeant of militia, sergeant of marines, 
 sergeant-at-anns, or our honourable friend Serjeant Buzfuz ; at 
 any rate, he was Captain of the Guides, and ought to have been 
 Marshal of the Lakes. As we have recently seen a good deal of 
 fishing with the green drake, it will be more advisable in this 
 chapter to take a general survey of the waters of the district, and 
 say as little as may be on the more pleasant subject of practice, 
 remembering the proverb that " Too much, even of a good thing, is 
 good for nothing." 
 
 Eoscommon is bounded on the north-east by Leitrim, and on the 
 east by King's County and Westmeath, from all which it is separated 
 by the river Shannon. The area is estimated at 609,405 English 
 acres, of which 131,063 are unimproved mountain and* bog, and 
 24,787 lakes. The interest of the sportsman may therefore be 
 considered as fairly represented by these freeholds of nature. The 
 general surface of Eoscommon is either flat or gently undulating ; 
 there are, however, some mountains, the principal groups of which 
 are the Braulieve and Slievh Curkagh, The county belongs to the 
 basin of the Shannon, except a very small portion at the western 
 extremity, which is drained by the Moy. The Shannon, about five 
 miles from its source, enters Lough Allen, flows through it, and 
 forms the north-eastern boundary of the county ; breaking from this 
 lake, it runs along the edge of Eoscommon to Carrick, where it 
 receives a stream from Lough Key ; from Carrick the great river 
 
SALMON ANGLINQ IN IRELAND. Ill 
 
 pursues its course along the border, passing through Lough Corry, 
 Lough Bodarg. Lough Boffin, and Lough Forbes, to Lanesborough, 
 below which it enters Lough Eee. The extent of some of the 
 principal lakes is as follows : Lough Allen, seven miles long by three 
 broad ; Lough Bodarg and Lough Boffin, forming one continuous 
 sheet of water five miles by seven ; Lough Forbes and Lough Eee, 
 seventeen miles long and seven broad ; Lough Qara, five miles by 
 three ; Lough Key (otherwise called Rockingham), about three and 
 a half miles ; and Lough Oakport, smaller, which communicate with 
 the Shannon by a stream called Boyle Wat^r. Seven or eight others 
 might be mentioned, but enough, in all conscience, have been 
 enumerated. Here, indeed, is Vemharras de richesses, for all hold 
 fine red trout ; and, as no one mortal man can fish them all in the 
 month which divides the salmon from the grilse season, it behoves 
 him to take counsel and select the best. It has been shown how we 
 have spent the interval, and the line of march we have taken. Others, 
 holding some of the waters above mentioned in great favour, will, 
 perhaps, maintain we might have chosen more wisely. Very possibly ; 
 but if they are pleased. I am content. Having skimmed like a 
 swallow lightly over the waters of the district, we will perch on the 
 church tower of Boyle and look nearer home. This town lies on the 
 high road to Sligo, on the " Boyle Water," which flows from Lough 
 Gara into Lough Key, and, in the reign of John, a Bernardine abbey 
 of great wealth and importance took the place under its wing. If it 
 continued to grow from that time to the present, it must, in the days 
 of the good friars, have been much too small to go alone. The older 
 portion of the town stands on the northern bank of the river ; the 
 more improved part on the southern ; but, notwithstanding the im- 
 provements, a very matter-of-fact writer observes, " out of about five 
 hundred houses three-fifths are miserable thatched cabins, and half 
 the remainder are little better." The stranger, however, need not be 
 alarmed on the score of his comforts, as he can either stay at an 
 " hotel " sufficiently comfortable, or procure lodgings where, if not 
 too luxurious, he may feel at home. 
 
 I fear my friend the sergeant will be wroth, for he bas been kept 
 
1X2 A YEAR OF liberty; OB, 
 
 waiting an unconscionable time at the outskirts of the town, whilst 
 I have been flying over the country and twittering on the parish 
 church. 
 
 My friend thinks we shall find matters rather dull on Gara, as it 
 is the earliest lake in the neighbourhood. Nor do I doubt the 
 correctness of his opinion, for the fly rises on this extensive sheet of 
 water about the 8th or 10th of May, so that by this time the fish are 
 sure to be suffering from indigestion, the product of over-indulgence. 
 Nor, indeed, is Gara, under even the most favourable circumstances, 
 comparable either to Lough Key or Arrow, as its trout are com- 
 paratively small, and suffer much both from nets and cross-lines. 
 Still I was anxious to spend one day on its broad bosom, visit the 
 islands, and make its beauty mine for ever. A pleasant walk of 
 forty minutes brought us to the lake, where we launched, and 
 paddled off to the best fishing-ground, some two miles lower down. 
 There is to me a peculiar charm in all islands, for they seem to 
 possess peace without dullness solitude without desolation not to 
 be found elsewhere. Derrybeg, Annough, Mackmoragh, Inchmore, 
 and many others all tempted us, when sport failed, to land ; but 
 the sergeant was of a temperament so hopeful as always to be 
 convinced there was a flaw of wind somewhere else, the consequence 
 of which was, that no sooner had I begun to get cool and com- 
 fortable than I was hurried off in doubtful chase after some fugitive 
 breeze. All that men could do, we did ; and whilst a chance existed, 
 persevered ; and when compelled to desist could only count between 
 us seven fish, not one of which exceeded 31b. 
 
 It has been already observed that the drake does not appear 
 simultaneously on all the Mullingar lakes, but, obeying some invari- 
 able natural law, rises first on one and then on another, which, by 
 the way, is an excellent arrangement for the angler. Here also the 
 same mysterious order is observed, the insect coming into " mid 
 air" first on Gara, next on Lough Key, and lastly on the Arrow, 
 where it remains nearly to the middle of June. To attend the 
 funeral obsequies of fair May-fly is impossible, as we have made 
 an-angements to be at Ballyshannon by the 7th or 8th of the month. 
 
SALMON ANQLINO IN IRELAND. 113 
 
 The short time left at our disposal, therefore, must be divided 
 between Key and Arrow, probably the two best waters in Ireland 
 for blowline fishing. Whilst strolling over the pleasant mile and a 
 half which separates Boyle from the former water, I re-read a note 
 received on the morning of our leaving MuUingar, which, being 
 pre-eminently practical, is here presented to my friends : 
 
 Boyle, May 25, 1865. 
 My dear Sir, You ask me to send you an account of my proceedings on 
 Lough Key. I do so with pleasure, but pray come and see for yourself. Let 
 mo, however, first say a few words about one day's angling there in the season 
 of 1864. My attendant was William Ross, an exceedingly intelligent and able 
 man, and with his help we killed (on the occasion referred to) five-and-twenty 
 trout, eight of which were above 71b. each, and twelve others over 41b. each. 
 This was, Ross said, one of the best bags almost ever made. 
 
 '' Never mind the rest of the note " crushing it into my pocket. 
 '' A great achievement has been wrought ; what was done once, may 
 be done again ; and who knows, eh Willie ! but that we may be the 
 fortunate individuals ?" With a longer stride I hastened on ; there 
 stood the field of battle, and we resolved, if possible, to go in and 
 win. Unlike Lough Gara, the water on whose margin we stood is 
 private property, and, as neither cross-lines nor nets are allowed, 
 it is indeed an angling paradise, where no evil thing comes. The 
 drakes had been "up" about ten days, and were now sitting on 
 almost every leaf, or sunning themselves on nearly every stone. The 
 excessive heat which cheered them chilled our hopes ; to-day would 
 not see the crowning victory. Well, life may not be one long 
 triumph, and the best soldier can but do his duty. Over the blue 
 waters we drifted with a lazy motion, passing many a lovely island 
 whose name should not be unrecorded here ; Church, Orchard, 
 Sally, Stag, and Crane, and many others, were noticed (I like to be 
 accurate), for we did not land on any : who would, with such a letter 
 in his pocket ? But we must not linger on description. Considering 
 the weather, we did wonders, two rods taking twelve good fish, the 
 three best being a trifle under 191b. Two more happy days were 
 spent on Lough Key, during which the sun forgot himself, and 
 behaved as he ought to have done in the tropics. Of course we 
 
 I 
 
114 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 fished under unfavourable circumstances ; but the blow-line when 
 properly managed rises above most of the difficulties created by 
 weather. With tackle of any other description sport would have 
 been almost an impossibility ; but with this, should there be only 
 the lightest conceivable air, a man will seldom return disappointed. 
 ]\Iore favourable atmospheric conditions will of course largely 
 contribute to the chances of success ; but the day in which an angler 
 writes in his diary the ominous word ''blank" must be bad indeed. 
 
 During the past season four or five salmon were taken on this lake, 
 and one or two during the present ; but as yet the numbers are too 
 inconsiderable to make this fish of any importance. 
 
 Within the next few years, perhaps, some future chronicler for 
 The Field may have to record, '' splendid grilse fishing on Lough 
 Key;" everywhere our wise law is producing fruit; good streams 
 are becoming better ; bad ones becoming good ; and rivers, now 
 exhausted, or by natural obstacles out of the reach of the most 
 adventurous salmon, here and there begin to show the first promise 
 of the coming harvest. Not only will that Act increase the number 
 of waters for sporting purposes, but it will do far more, it will 
 decrease the heavy rents hitherto demanded from the angler ; not 
 that I would be understood to imply that such charges were or are 
 exorbitant ; far from it ; the goods were exposed in a fair and open 
 market, and the prices asked cheerfully paid. Local reputation will 
 in many cases keep up for a time foiTaer terms ; but as in general 
 society the poor far outnumber the rich, so amongst the brotherhood 
 of the rod those who with difficulty make both ends meet greatly 
 exceed those who can bring the ends together, and moreover find a 
 good piece to lap over ; thus men who are unable to pay large sums 
 for their recreation will gradually hunt up new quarters, meet more 
 fortunate friends and proclaim their success, when it will be found 
 that many an impoverished lake and river has suddenly grown 
 wealthy, and is entitled to take rank with the best. The conse- 
 quence of these changes is sufficiently obvious ; there will be more 
 goods in the market, and the value of the stock must diminish in 
 the ratio of its quantity. 
 
SALMON ANQLINQ IN IBELAND. 115 
 
 I linger over the sheet as loath to leave the subject ; but the best 
 friends must part, aild we have come to that inevitable hour, on the 
 shores of Arrow, the last of our green drake lakes. This sheet of 
 water, without presenting any striking beauties, yet has charms of a 
 pleasing kind ; ** there are sloping, green, and cultivated, banks, 
 finely wooded promontories, low, but stretching far into its bosom," 
 with many an emerald isle sleeping on its blue surface. This 
 morning, when we left Boyle, we quitted it for the season, and 
 looked our last on Lough Key the splendid sun-ounding woods of 
 
 Lord , and the venerable ruins of the Abbey one of the most 
 
 beautiful in Ireland. Nor did we pass the comfortable but unpre- 
 tending inn without a sigh, hoping devoutly that during the remainder 
 of our journey we might always find one as good. 
 
 It is needless to record our sayings and doings on the silver 
 Arrow ; they have been already told at Belvidere, Dereveragh, and 
 Lake Owel. Sufiice it to say the sport was excellent, and that in 
 four consecutive days thirty-one trout fell to my rod. In point of 
 size they were very fair, the largest weighing rather over eight 
 pounds and a half 
 
 The day is over, and we stand on the hot and dusty road looking 
 up the long slope which leads to Boyle. 
 
 " Here they come, sir I " At that moment I did not feel as a 
 model family man ought to have felt. The occupants of the 
 rapidly approaching car seemed not so much friends, as savages 
 about to tear me from what I held so dear. Whilst we drove away 
 I watched the lake as if it wore the form of some departing friend. 
 I was very dolorous, and looked so. 
 
 " Come, cheer up ! What would you have ? " 
 
 "I would have the lakes." 
 
 "What ! and give up the Erne?" 
 
 " No." 
 
 " But you cannot have both. You must renounce one." 
 
 " I cannot ! " 
 
 ** What is to be done ? Don't threaten to shoot yourself like 
 Scythrop Glowry. There, light your pipe : already you have ' One 
 
 I 2 
 
116 A TEAE OF liberty; OR, 
 
 auspicious and one drooping eye.' You will forget your lost love 
 to-morrow, when you stand once more on the dear old bridge of 
 Ballyshannon." 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 The Erne Early morning ^The Bridge A "great" misfortune Subsequent 
 success The Colonel discourses ^Draughting under the Falls. 
 
 June 12. 
 The church clock struck three as I lay broad awake in my com- 
 fortable chamber in the Mall, waiting the expected signal announcing 
 that Pat and m.y Jichis Achates were at their post : yes, wide awake, 
 for who could sleep on such a morning ? Through the open window 
 comes the balmy breath of the sweet summer, and the minstrel 
 thrush is humming over the song he will sing so soon to a drowsy 
 world. Beautiful Erne, I cannot see you ; yet I feel your bright 
 face will smile a welcome to an old adorateur. Queen of streams ! 
 thou art peerless amongst the waters. A very Phoenix of rivers, you 
 burst in your might from the parent lake, and after a too brief race 
 of four miles, die in your prime, and drop into the eternity of Ocean. 
 No dull stagnant life is yours, but onward, ever onward, in beautiful 
 variety splendid in your streams, deep and wide in your pools, grand 
 in your falls. Many a happy day have I whiled away on your banks, 
 sweet Erae! 
 
 Time did not, however, 
 Keep pace with my expectancy and fly. 
 
 Four was the hour agreed on, but it wanted sixty minutes to the 
 time, and who would voluntarily submit to half or three quarters of 
 an hour's misery if he could help it. 
 
 To spring out of bed and gain the Avindow was the work of a 
 moment. There, on the opposite doorstep, sat Messrs Willie and 
 
SALMON ANGLtNG IN IRELAND. 117 
 
 Pat, talking as calmly as if it were midday, instead of only three 
 horn's after midnight. 
 
 "Holloa, "Willie, why didn't you call me?" 
 
 "Your honour appointed four," observed Pat. ** All's quiet in 
 the town. Not a ghost of a soul's stirrin' ; we come early for fear 
 of being late. Niver a doubt but I'd have gravelled the winder had 
 there been any need ; but things ain't as they used to be." 
 
 "We had been so fortunate as to obtain our old quarters in the Mall, 
 a site indeed quite to my taste, for it was within a hundred and forty 
 yards of the bridge ; and what did that imply ? Why, simply this 
 that I was hardly a minute's walk from the best cast in the kingdom. 
 The water thence to the falls is reserved, but my kind friend the 
 lessee had placed it at my disposal, and I longed to be there. 
 
 The dear old bridge, scene of many former pains and pleasures ; of 
 defiance to foes and plots against friends, shone bright as ever in the 
 morning sun. Each stone on the parapet was graven on my memory, 
 for had I not seen it every hour in the twenty-four shivered there 
 at ten, eleven 
 
 In the dead waste and middle of the night ! 
 
 and as for two, three, and four they were parts of our daily life. 
 
 "Well, Pat, who have you got here this season ?" I asked, as the 
 line was being passed through rings. 
 
 " Some of your honour's friends ; and the Colonel ^you'll be glad 
 to hear he's come." 
 
 This was good news, indeed. The stout soldier was so old a friend 
 that I knew him before my lips could well pronounce his name. We 
 had not met for three years, I having during that time rented a 
 river farther north. Bright, genial, and courteous, his society was a 
 privilege ; he was better than a book ; had haunted the Erne with 
 men whose active lives were over ; remembered bygone scenes and 
 ancient comrades, and spoke of them with a gusto and vivacity 
 rarely met with. 
 
 ""Will we try the parson first ?" 
 
 " Oh, by all means, "Willie. Is the thread good ?" 
 
118 A YEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 "Never a better was wetted," he said, giving me tlie butt. 
 
 Anyone possessed of liands could float a line down a stream, but 
 that would not have been fishing our bridge. First, it must be tried 
 close to the arches, and this can only be effected by keeping the 
 point near the water, and the rod parallel to the masonry ; then a 
 little more line may be paid out, and the glittering fly made to dart 
 across the rapid, play in the eddy, and so skim back again into the 
 current ; and, lastly, more and more length is given by slow degrees, 
 till that portion of the water has been fairly tried. Now there are 
 many arches (some far better than others), so it may be easily 
 imagined we have suflScient work on our hands, till a breathless 
 messenger announces, at half-past eight, ''Breakfast is ready." 
 The third and fourth streams from the north side were especial 
 favourites, but each was worked in vain, with two or three changes. 
 This was the more vexatious, as the wide sheet of water between us 
 and the falls was alive with fish, springing high in air or casting 
 themselves horizontally over the surface, often showing their broad 
 and silvery sides distinctly for many a yard as they dived below. It 
 needed not the magic ointment of the dervish to see that a treasure 
 lay there ; but now to win it was the question. 
 
 It is hardly possible to have too much line for this throw, as the 
 angler is well-nigh chained to his post. On the south side there is 
 no possibility of following a fish, and on the north the propriety of 
 such a step is very questionable, for it can only be done by dropping 
 the rod to your attendant as he stands below. Supposing such a 
 transfer safely effected, you cannot follow more than fifty or sixty 
 yards, when the depth of the water forbids all further advance. But 
 it is not often a fresh salmon takes this steady downward course. 
 Desperate runs in the direction of the falls are inevitable ; but 
 in nineteen cases out of twenty, while strength remains, he 
 will again head up stream, and eventually come within reach of 
 the gaff. 
 
 "What ! never a fish?" said an ancient professional, who, too old 
 to follow the river, yet haunted the bridge. " WiU your honour let 
 me look at your book ?" 
 
SALMON ANGLIKO IK IBELAND. 119 
 
 I assured him ever3rthing it contained had been tried, and found 
 wanting. 
 
 " Your honour has not wet this the morn," he observed, slowly 
 drawing a gaudy article from one of the pockets. I had frequently 
 tried it, for I was proud of the handiwork, but had at last thrown it 
 aside as worthless. " It might do," he said, running critically over 
 the composition. ''Gold tag, topping, kingfisher, and a turn of 
 ostrich ; that's a good tail, any way. Puce silk body, bright claret 
 hackle, fiery brown pig's- wool, and jay at the shoulder." " Is there 
 four or five jungle cock in the wing ? " " Well, it way do." '* Try 
 it your honour, any way." Scarcely had the fly touched the water, 
 when a monstrous salmon made a charge at it. I knew he was well 
 hooked. " Mona mon diaoul," exclaimed the veteran, " but he's the 
 best fish that's been stuck this season." "He's forty pounds if he's 
 an ounce.'" His activity and strength exceeded anything I had ever 
 conceived. Again and again, at a single dash, he tore the whole line 
 (140 yards) from the wheel, but by great luck always turned at the 
 critical moment. I felt from the first a terrible misgiving that the 
 business on hand was more than I could manage, and looked 
 anxiously for Pat, who had gone home in the hope of producing an 
 article more captivating than those hitherto employed. " Whish 
 he's off again," now leaving me scarce an inch on the reel, now 
 encumbered with a hundred yards of slack ; now dashing to the 
 right and then to the left, with such startling speed and determined 
 perseverance as kept me in constant difficulties. " Ah ! there's Pat 
 at full speed." " More power to yer elbow, yer honor ; I heard the 
 music up by the church, and that*s a quarter of a mile. Tare-an'- 
 ouns, but he's a tatterer." 
 
 Verily I had caught a tartar; the strength of the fish, the 
 necessity of holding the rod up, and the weight on the line, had 
 "kilt me entirely." I was dead beat. My arm refused its office, 
 and if life had depended upon it, I could not have worked at the 
 wheel a minute longer. Gladly I handed the rod to Pat. The 
 change was scarcely effected, when the monster once more dashed 
 down the water at headlong speed. Pat saw the crisis was at 
 
120 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 hand ; he looked pale, agitated, but determined. By the time 
 the last inch of line was off the wheel the butt was pointed in 
 the direction of the fish, and the top well over his shoulder, to 
 break, if possible, the force of the rush, by the elasticity of the 
 rod. This might have succeeded with a smaller fish, but would, 
 I felt, be useless here. It required his whole force to keep the 
 rod in the proper position. Twice the gallant salmon made 
 desperate charges, yet the good tackle stood ; a third succeeded. 
 By sheer force the rod was drawn into an horizontal direction, 
 and the line, an instant before tight as a harp string, flew loosely 
 upwards. The poor fellow turned an appealing look at the great 
 master. ' All the sons of men could not have helped it," he said, 
 soothingly; "man could not have played him better." Here was, 
 indeed, a downfall to my expectations. It was the only chance that 
 ever fell to my lot of achie\dng real greatness. I said not a word. 
 What my feelings were it is needless to say ; they may be more easily 
 imagined than described. It was no use grieving over a broken thread. 
 The casting line, composed of stout treble gut (with the exception of 
 a capital single thread on which the fly was tied), had luckily parted 
 in the middle, so the loss of tackle was nothing. Damages were soon 
 repaired, and the ''parson" was in a few minutes swimming 
 seducingly across the streams of the fourth and fifth arches. 
 ''Hooroo! that's something like. Murther! but he's missed it." 
 Scarcely had he spoken before the same fish turned at the brilliant 
 insect and took it. A furious run of eight or ten feet ended my 
 hopes ; the mouth had given way. Willie was in despair, Pat more 
 than ever convinced he had met " an evil eye," and that no luck 
 could fall to our share. His mind was disquieted ; thrice he enume- 
 rated every ill-favoured old lady of his acquaintance, and still was 
 unsatisfied ; he could fix with certainty on no one. Memory was 
 treacherous. Might he not have omitted an item in the reckoning ? 
 Possibly. And a fourth time the summing-up was recommenced 
 in hopes of a different result. 
 
 " MoUy M'Gowan bad luck to her. But sure it wasn't her ; 
 didn't I bestow her a stone of praties not a month ago ? She wasn't 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 121 
 
 the witch. Biddy O'Brien," continued the persevering calculator, 
 scoring her off on the first finger of his left hand "Biddy O'Brien!" 
 the groaning of the wheel cut short further investigation, and the 
 spell was broken by our landing, about half an hour afterwards, a 
 beautiful fish of 181b. But fortune had not yet done with us, for 
 within the next forty minutes another salmon of 16lb. lay cooling in 
 the shallow edge of the stream ; whilst a third, larger than either, 
 was giving me full occupation in a series of runs, so desperate that 
 nothing but a first-class wheel could have stood the work. In the 
 midst of one of these, a light hand was laid on my shoulder and a 
 well-remembered voice said 
 
 " Well done, Walter ! This is like the good old times. Polish 
 your man off ; I can wait." 
 
 Short gi'eeting was given to the Colonel then ; but, when Willie 
 had gaffed the fish (he was nearly 211b.), I found leisure to say, how 
 happy it made me to see my old friend once more. 
 
 " Ay,", he said, " I heard you were here, and came to rob you of 
 an arch or two. Privilege of seniority, you know, Walter one of 
 the few good things one gets in exchange for time." 
 
 Wiping my forehead, I murmured something about having done 
 enough for one morning Heaven forgive the deceit ! I could have 
 worked for the next forty-eight hours without food or rest, and, 
 reeling up, stood by the Colonel's side, watching the wonderful skill 
 with which he fished the water. Playing his fly with unceasing 
 activity now close to the masonry, now in the current, then with a 
 graceful curve into the eddy, and so back into the stream again ^he 
 ran on in a full flow of pleasant chat. 
 
 " What a place this is to me ! ^it is full of memories ; here old 
 times, lost friends, meny plots, and innocent counterplots, all come 
 back as fresh as May. What fun I have had ! You don't remember 
 
 old Tom ? Many years before you became one of us, Captain 
 
 ' outdid his former great outdoings,' killing upwards of a hundred 
 heavy fish in the short space of six weeks. Various attempts were 
 made from time to time to despoil him of the property here, but 
 without success. Four, half-past three, three, and even half-past 
 
122 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 two had been tried in vain. Come when the invaders would, the 
 Captain was on guard. Poor old Tom Lightly (he's dead and gone 
 now) was, at the time I speak of, my attendant, and in an evil hour 
 persuaded me to try my fortune. I consented ; ordered him to 
 watch the Captain's retirement that evening, occupy the post with 
 my rod and gaff, keep watch all night ; and call me by peep of day. 
 Before turning in I took a look at Tom, and found him with a 
 roaring turf fire in one of the niches, his pipe going merrily, and the 
 bottle of whisky I sent to help out his watch, half finished. All was 
 right, and I went to bed with a mind at ease. About half -past two 
 John and his master rounded the comer, not a little alarmed at the 
 signs of occupation evinced by the blazing fire. All was still. They 
 took a closer look. Could they believe their eyes ? Yes ; there 
 stood the bridge, solitary and unoccupied ; once more they were in 
 possession. The mystery was soon solved. Sheltered from a 
 sweeping northerly wind in a friendly doorway, lay old Tom, fast as 
 a watchman, his master's rod across his knees, his pipe smothered in 
 its own ashes, and the bottle empty. Whether the wind had half 
 frozen the old fellow's blood, whether he had walked in his sleep, or 
 whether Tom became rather blind and lost his way, no one ever 
 knew. Merely to hint at the subject was a broken head. John was 
 in an ecstacy of delight to think of two Christians, comforted with 
 a reasonable night's rest, outwitting those who had ' outwatched the 
 stars.' It was better than a month's wages. There was a further 
 triumph which suggested itself to the malicious John, could old 
 Tom but be roused to a sense of his miserable condition by ' a grand 
 instrumental crash.' To wake and find the bridge occupied would 
 be something ; but for Tom to start up and find the Captain 'stuck' 
 in a twenty-pounder, would be Elysian. Hardly was the wish 
 formed before the music of the wheel announced its fulfilment. 
 Hitherto John had with difficulty restrained his exultation ; but now 
 the measure of his joy overflowed ; this crowning triumph was more 
 than mortal could bear in silence. He could contain himself no 
 longer, but gave vent to a yell that would have done credit to a 
 whole tribe of redskins. Such an assemblage of terrified heads as 
 
SALMON ANGLINO IN raBLAND. 123 
 
 it drew to the windows of the ' Port ' had never been seen at three 
 a.m. in the memory of man. The general opinion was that the 
 cholera had * tuk the pegs.' It startled the Captain ; what wonder 
 that it woke old Tom ? He saw the state of afifairs at once ; dared 
 not encounter the jokes of the delighted John ; modestly observed, 
 if St. Patrick was to order it, he'd not watch the bridge again 
 if that bom devil, the Captain, was within twenty miles of it ; 
 turned tail, and fairly bolted. Next morning Tom was reported 
 absent. For a whole week my servant returned the old 
 fellow non est. I was growing seriously anxious on his account 
 when, late on the ninth evening, he made his appearance 
 in the coffee-room. I hardly knew him, so pale and gaunt had 
 he become. By degrees I learned that, knowing the merciless 
 quizzing he must endure, he dared not return, but had been wandering 
 in the Leitrim mountains from one cottage to another, till the 
 present moment, when he hoped the affair had blown over and been 
 forgotten. T ordered him to call me early. * I'll do it, your honour; 
 but och. Colonel dear, niver breathe the laste taste in life about the 
 bridge.' Welladay ! Many a pleasant hour have I passed on this- 
 spot with friends I shall never see more." Here the soldier brushed 
 half an inch of white ash from his cigar a silent comment, perhaps, 
 on the perishing nature of sublunary things, and continued : " Tom 
 had a tenacious memory ; he owed the Captain * one,' and was not 
 likely to forget it. He was biding his time. Now, the commander 
 and myself were next-door neighbours. One stormy night, about 
 eleven, Tom placed himself under the Captain's window, hemmed, 
 coughed, whistled snatches of a song, and, pausing between whiles, 
 listened intently. If the Captain slept like a lynx, he was wary as a 
 hawk, and Mr. Lightly was afraid of over-acting. The bait took; he 
 heard his victim bounce out of bed and cautiously approach the 
 window to hear what was going on. ' Hist, hist, your honour,' said 
 Tom, addressing his sleeping master, but so softly that, though per- 
 fectly audible to the ambushed commander, it would hardly have 
 waked a watch dog. ' Hist, hist, your honour, if ye arn't down in 
 five minutes, bedad but we'll lose it,' adding, in a yet lower tone, 
 
124 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 ' The Captain's awake.' This was enough. Tom knew his man 
 would risk life rather than lose his favourite throw. In less than a 
 minute the door flew open ; out rushed the deluded angler half 
 dressed, ignorant of the hour, in a drizzling rain and westerly gale, 
 to bide, as best he might, their pitiless buffeting through the long, 
 long night. Tom was revenged. He had paid his debt and a little 
 over. The whole was a inise, for I never dreamed of again entering 
 the lists against the invincible commander ; and the hit consisted in 
 giving him a Eoland for an Oliver in the shape of an unnecessary 
 airing of five or six hours on a squally night on one of the most 
 exposed spots in the barony." 
 
 Anxious to give my companion full possession, I soon wished him 
 good sport, and strolled up the Mall. Having a few minutes to spare, 
 I determined to walk a couple of hundred yards farther, and see 
 what was going on under the falls. Throwing myself on the grassy 
 knoll which overhangs the fishhouse and the leap, I watched as 
 delightedly as ever the operation of draughting. A stout, well- 
 manned boat had just pushed from the shore, and was pulling at 
 gi-eat speed towards the foot of the cascade, the captain in the stern 
 delivering the heavy seine net as the crew dashed on. Now they 
 are within a foot of the mighty sheet of falling water, and, turning 
 close under a smooth rock on the southern bank, head back to the 
 starting point. The corks now show the circle is complete. All 
 hands to the ropes. Narrower and narrower grows the prison, more 
 desperate the struggles of the captives, more keen the interest of the 
 spectators. One heave all together, boys, and a hundred splendid 
 fish, such as no other river can show, unless, perhaps, it be the Spey, 
 are bounding on the floor of the boat. No time is lost between 
 death and interment. A few moments only elapse ere the salmon 
 are weighed, iced, and screwed down in the coffin-like boxes in which 
 they are conveyed to Liverpool, London, and perhaps Paris. I have 
 said they were such as probably no other river can show admire 
 their exquisite beauty of form and colour look for a moment at 
 their size ! There are a few of twelve, more of eighteen, numbers 
 from twenty to twenty-five, and perhaps two or three between forty 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 125 
 
 and fifty pounds each. This draughting had been going on for hours, 
 yet so great is *' the run " that the last haul seemed to equal the 
 first, and already numbers of new comers are even now leaping at 
 the falls. 
 
 " Ah ! breakfast is ready is it, Willie ? " 'Twill be an idle 
 ceremony, for this sight always spoils my appetite for beef and 
 buttered toast. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXI. 
 
 A Piscatorial Republic " The Bank of Ireland" Moss Row The Captain's 
 Throw The Lost Gaff" Luck's All " 
 
 June 17. 
 The Erae flows through the town of Ballyshannon, dividing it into 
 two unequal parts, the principal of which is on the north bank, 
 where the ground rises rather abruptly, showing to great advantage 
 its sunny gardens and pleasant dwellings, whilst a fine old church 
 crowns the summit of the hill. From the east comes the rushing 
 river, whilst to the west stretches a long range of sandhills, guarding 
 the lough from the wild fury of the Atlantic. A solid mass of rock 
 crosses the bed of the stream, which, thundering over the obstacle, 
 drops in an unbroken sheet into the estuary, and is soon lost in 
 the wide waters of Donegal Bay. A finer entrance can hardly be 
 imagined, yet the Erne is not a spring river. Some early fish are 
 taken, but the true run commences about the 1st of June, and 
 consists exclusively of salmon, which are followed by the grilse 
 three or four weeks later. Happy is the man who welcomes these, 
 but thrice happy is he who meets the glorious creatures which 
 throng hither in the first days of summer. 
 
 Every river has some peculiar characteristics, one of the distin- 
 guishing features of the Erne being a decided tendency to remain 
 constantly in good angling trim, in which amiable eccentricity it 
 
126 A YEAR OF liberty; OE, 
 
 differs from most of the other streams in the kingdom. In one, 
 during the hot months, sport becomes impracticable from want of 
 water ; in another, wind is a sine qua non ; in a third, not a fish 
 will move unless the day be dull, dark, and breezy ; whilst a fourth 
 may have an obstinate predilection for becoming flooded on the 
 smallest provocation. But here, whether the season be dry or wet, 
 about an equal number of " throws" are always in order. Summer 
 floods (in the usual acceptation of the word) are unknown ; sun, 
 wind, and clouds are things of comparatively little moment, and 
 every morning ushers in a fishing day. In fact. Lough Erne has 
 its summer and winter level, from which it rarely varies, rising 
 periodically during the latter season, in the ratio of the rains. 
 This, of course, regulates the height of the river ; but the lake is 
 so enormous, and the tract of country whose drainage it receives 
 so extensive, that in the driest summers the volume of water 
 discharged is always great. "Our pet" possesses another virtue, 
 that of being seldom discoloured, as all the large tributaries lay near 
 the head of this inland sea, in which the rude mountain torrents 
 grow quite genteel and refined, long ere their waters reach Beleek. 
 Desperate and long continued storms may occasionally shade the 
 Erne, but even then a fish may be killed ; and at the worst a few 
 hours will restore it to its pristine brightness. 
 
 A society so respectable as the Piscatorial Eepublic on the banks 
 of the Erne could not, of course, exist without a code for its own 
 special government. All questions of right or etiquette that arise 
 are settled by reference to a lex non scripta, in which our sporting 
 attendants are well versed. Unlike other jurisconsults, their 
 decisions are uniformly governed by sense and justice ; and as the 
 laws are seldom strained to suit private purposes, appeal to higher 
 authority is rarely necessary ; peace and harmony prevail, and we 
 form, in fact, a model state. By one of these traditional rules any 
 angler who first occupies a lodge may retain it a discretion, and as 
 the casts are well defined, each subsequent comer passes on to the 
 next he may find vacant 
 
 The heat is awful ; to be out in such a day would almost justify 
 
SALMON ANOLINO IN IRELAND. 127 
 
 a man's friends procuring him fumislied lodgings in Bedlam. In 
 the full blaze of the sun a Bengal tiger might feel at home. The 
 windows are open, the blinds down, yet the wax is melting on the 
 paper where I am fabricating a pair of flies for your benefit, my 
 dear sir. The mysteries of Eleusis, which stood on the Lake Copais, 
 were not more carefully guarded than the secret of a killing fly by 
 a zealous artist ; but you are one of us, so enter the Penetralia and 
 behold. An O'Shaughnessy, suited to the weather and state of the 
 water, is strapped to a thread of single gut. Gold tip, a turn of 
 bright blue silk, another of crimson ; topping, kingfisher's feather, 
 and a roll of black ostrich, fonn the tag. The body is made of rich 
 yellow floss, gold tinsel, and hackle of the same hue. The wings 
 consist of four or five toppings, six or eight orange feathers from 
 the toucan, a few strands from the cock of the rock, four fibres from 
 the tail of the golden pheasant, and two long crimson horns. A 
 black head completes the elaborate production. This is the favourite 
 lure, and is considered by the learned as the best that can be '' put 
 over a fish ;" and now, having finished the fly, the next thing is to 
 try it. 
 
 Our plan for to-day is to reach " the Bank of Ireland," if possible 
 before the doors open for the admission of the public ; to work there 
 for two or three hours, and then take each cast in order back to the 
 town, following the south side of the river. Over the bridge we 
 hurry, up the hot and dusty road for a short distance, then across a 
 field or two, and so reach Kathleen's Fall. From thence to Stonewell 
 is an unbroken succession of lodges, but there is no time to try them. 
 Straight on we go ; over the green swell above '' the grassyard," 
 over walls and rough pastures, till we reach the ornamental grounds 
 behind the " Captain's Throw." Still onward ; through plantations, 
 over more walls, past a considerable stretch of coppice, when we 
 plunge downwards and find ' The Bank " without a customer. This 
 throw is indeed perfection long, deep, and broad, with a splendid 
 stream, running with decreasing force to the end, but which requires 
 some neatness of execution, as a high wooded slope rises abruptly 
 from the edge of the river, and forbids casting in the ordinary 
 
128 A YEAR OF LIBEBTT ; OR, 
 
 manner. Of course the newest fly was slipped on tlie line. How 
 my hands trembled ; for each moment I expected a rise, Over the 
 left shoulder flew the line, which, guided by a light touch of the 
 right hand, shot straight as an arrow far across the water. A dull 
 ruffle, an upward motion of the rod, and a good O'Shaughnessy sinks 
 deep in the jaw of a fifteen-pounder at the least. Speaking of one 
 of the smaller rivers, a friend once observed, ''Do you call that 
 sport ? Why the poor beasts cannot turn round in such a ditch." 
 But here no one could complain of wanting space. How these fish 
 fight ! Weight and water are all in their favour, and our antagonist 
 made such good use of his personal and natural advantages, that half an 
 hour elapsed before my man got a chance with the gaff, and was able 
 to land as handsome a sixteen-pounder as anyone need desire to see. 
 This agreeable commencement put us all in high spirits. A dark fly 
 succeeded '' the parson ; " an olive officiated as clerk to his reverence, 
 and was in turn followed by an " orange grouse." Now to go care- 
 fully over " the bank " four times, implies a considerable amount of 
 exercise, so we sat to consider what was next to be done. For 
 the last hour Pat had been busily engaged in dressing " an infant 
 phenomenon," which he was, of course anxious to trot out. This, 
 too, failed ; and as nothing more could be done, we tied our prize 
 '' head and tail," and moved on to the stream below. Hitherto we 
 had been favoured with only a single chance, nor did it seem an 
 easy matter to obtain a second. Under the waving woods adjoining 
 
 my friend 's pretty villa, lay some likely spots, each of which 
 
 was carefully but vainly tried ; and now, here is "Moss Eow," as 
 good a " rising throw " as any between the bridge and Beleek. By 
 keeping pretty constant possession, and by dint of hard work, I 
 managed this season to obtain a sort of prescriptive right to the row, 
 and considered myself in some sort as proprietor of the property ; but 
 like other potentates, I too had my cares of state. 
 
 Uneasy lies the head that weai's a crown. 
 
 I proved no exception to the rule, for it required the utmost 
 vigilance to maintain and defend my sovereignty. If excitement be 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 129 
 
 a charm in angling, the sport here must be enjoyed in its highest 
 perfection, for friendly rivalry, plots, plans to be formed, and designs 
 to be traversed, keep us constantly on the qui vive. Did I relax my 
 watchfulness for a day, another hand was sure to snatch at the reins. 
 Did I fail to take a fish. I was mercifully left in undisturbed pos- 
 session ; but if success attended me, fresh efforts were regularly 
 made to dethrone me on the morrow. 
 
 As a general rule, all the casts on the south correspond with those 
 on the opposite side. There are, however, two exceptions Laputa 
 and the point of the Mullens, both of which belong exclusively to 
 the noi-th shore. Each is excellent, but the latter has a high 
 reputation for holding fish of extraordinary size. That this 
 character is deserved cannot be doubted, and once (I say it with 
 shame) I endured an hour's unutterable anguish whilst watching 
 
 Capt. M kill there a salmon, which weighed between 361b. and 
 
 371b. In this noble river nothing can be done without constant and 
 deep wading, two or three pools only being fishable from the land, 
 but our professionals are amphibious, and as much at home in the 
 pure element as so many ducks. 
 
 Whilst drawing on my boots and getting ready for a turn in " the 
 Row," Willie seats himself under the shade of a friendly thorn, 
 opens the basket, and prepares for half an hour's work. With Pat 
 close at my back, to aid and direct my course, we gain the point 
 whence the stream can be most advantageously commanded. At 
 the third cast a glorious fellow rose and refused the fly, which was 
 allowed to float quietly on, when the line was gathered in by 
 hand, to insure its coming over him again under conditions exactly 
 similar. 
 
 "Wom't he a large one?" asked the artist, who, guessing in- 
 stinctively what had happened, hastily shut his shop, and was now 
 paddling close behind me with " a change." " Shure he icor a 
 big one, for I seen his wave roll up agen the current. Will we try 
 him with this ?" producing his favourite light donkey fur with jungle 
 cockwing. A couple of short casts brought the tackle to its full 
 stretch, and the third sent it light and true to a point from 
 
 K 
 
130 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 whence the glittering insect must pass over our friend's head on the 
 turn. 
 
 " Sweet father ! but that's nate," remarked Pat, his head ad- 
 miringly on one side, as the salmon, feeling the point, plunged 
 savagely on the surface for a moment. "Musha, but the crayther's 
 eight-an'-twinty-pounds." He seemed possessed of all the divine 
 fury of an ancient sea-king now in the air, coming down again 
 with a crash plainly audible above the rush of the river now 
 rattling along at railroad speed. What an absurd sight we must 
 have presented to any calm philosophical looker-on, reeling, tottering, 
 slipping, splashing, struggling, gesticulating, and all because a poor 
 fish (having taken service with a hard master, by mistake) was now 
 trying to run away. Ten minutes twenty, thirty passed, and still 
 the contest raged fiercely as ever. 
 
 " Mind him, for yer sowl mind him ! Och, the devil mend him ; 
 bad luck to that same for a salmon I" screamed Pat, in the wildest 
 state of excitement, as the captive, after a furious race, took an awful 
 perpendicular leap. "He's off; no, he's on !" sprang involuntarily 
 from my lips. I felt that for an instant he was free. Had there 
 been time I would have staked my last farthing on the truth of that 
 belief. Yet, there he was, firm on the hook, tugging laboriously at 
 the line, seventy or eighty yards above me. But the fight was over. 
 That last rush had broken his heart, and, yielding to the pressure of 
 the rod, he came weltering down the stream. Cautiously avoiding 
 the tackle, Willie placed himself in line, and with his usual quiet 
 skill gaffed as gallant a fish as ever died a death of fame. " I'd 
 have sworn," he said, thrusting his hands into the gills, " that the 
 baste was hooked fair; such a pig, too, and him wid the steel in 
 his side." 
 
 After so much excitement, pipes all round were inevitable. As 
 the smoke curled up amongst the green leaves I heard, " Blest if it 
 ain't queer ; look at his mouth, Pat." There, over the inferior jaw, 
 was a long rent. Under the great strain the sharp weapon must 
 have cut its way out, but how it had taken a fresh hold was past 
 my wit to explain. I accepted the fact and was satisfied. Whilst 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN lEELAND. 131 
 
 meditating on these things, a light step sounded over the shingles, 
 
 and my friend L stood before me. "Look here," he said, 
 
 pointing in great glee to a particularly handsome gaff in all the 
 splendour of unsullied brass and steel ; *' I shall not want your 
 unwilling charity again, you niggardly Walter. Here, what do you 
 think of this ?" 
 
 I could not but admire the implement. 
 
 " Ton my life, though, I wish it was safe back again in Beleek. 
 Rowley was very unwilling to lend, and gave no end of directions 
 about care, and all that sort of thing." 
 
 "Why don't you give it to my man, he'll keep it safe. We shall 
 be all together for the rest of the day ?" 
 
 " What are you going to do next ? Is there any one at the 
 ' Captain's Throw ?' " 
 
 The latter question I could not answer, and, with respect to the 
 fonner, " I intended to try ' the Row ' again, and afterwards follow 
 the stream down towards the town." 
 
 "I shall go on. then," he said, " and wait for you at Alt More." 
 
 After giving the water sufficient rest, we tried it again and again. 
 But the lodge had been thoroughly upset, and nothing more could 
 be done, so our guide considered it high time to move on and 
 inquire after the fate and fortunes of my friend, more especially as 
 he thought that once or twice suspicious sounds had floated up from 
 his neighbourhood. As we advanced, Mr. Pat was in the act of re- 
 marking, " that the captin must be doing something, or never a bit 
 of him would have stayed quiet so long," when a tenific howl cut 
 him short. The start would have done credit to the Great Liverpool. 
 Off we went at score ; neck and neck : took a rasping fence at the 
 same moment, floundered through some soft ground, and entered the 
 thicket. Here the guide, who knew the paths, shot ahead, and we 
 paused to catch the direction he had taken. 
 
 " Stones, Pat, stones ^those ain't big enough where the deuce is 
 the master ? I've been shouting this hour. There's not a bit of 
 skin left on my throat." Guided by the voice, which resembled 
 that of a trumpet labouring under severe catarrh, we soon came up. 
 
 E 2 
 
132 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 " Now, now, lie's under the rock. Och ! murtlier, Captin, dear, mind 
 the line." Splash, splash, splash, went stones. " He's in ; he's out ; 
 confound you, throw. No, no ; hold hard," were some of the 
 contradictory orders that greeted our arrival at the scene of action ; 
 
 and what a subject for a painter ! L , pale and nervous ; Pat, 
 
 fiery red, from his frantic exertions in turning up morsels of rock. 
 Our position, far above the water, enabled us to see at a glance that 
 my friend had, indeed, found a prize. There he lay, heading the 
 stream, but dead beat ; nor was the victor in much better condition, 
 for his white lips and trembling hands marked the extremity of his 
 agitation. Now was the moment, as the fish neared the surface, 
 and, yielding to the steady pressure, edged towards the shore. To 
 seize the gaff and slide down the face of the rock, was to Pat 
 scarcely the work of a moment ; a single foot nearer, and he has 
 him. With extended jaws the helpless monster is drawn, inch by 
 inch, closer and closer. Now ! the descending weapon fell short, 
 and scared the quarry, which, with a last laborious effort, paddled a 
 few yards farther from the rock, rolled heavily over, and floated 
 down the stream. Yes, down ! for the hook had slipped. I dared 
 not look at the bereaved man, but gazed wistfully at the exhausted 
 salmon as he glided over the smooth yet rapid water, and disap- 
 peared in the torrent below. With desperate calmness my unhappy 
 companion reeled up the line, looked at the fly, pronounced all 
 right, handed the rod to Pat, renounced its use for ever, apologised 
 in good set terms for the trouble he had caused us, and professed 
 perfect readiness to return home when it suited me. His misfortune 
 was beyond the reach of sympathy. But Willie had yet his own 
 source of consolation to offer. He held out his pipe " Take a 
 blast of that. Captain, and may be 'twill settle you." 
 
 A silent walk of half an hour is a wonderful restorer of the 
 temper, and by the time we reached AUingham's Point the discon- 
 solate had forgotten his vow, and was again eager as ever once more 
 to try his fortune. Interested in his success, we sat on the bank to 
 watch the result. True flew the line, light fell the fly. About the 
 middle of the cast a fish met it, and after something less than half 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 133 
 
 an hour's very pretty sport I broke the spell by landing a silvery 
 sixteen-pounder. Leaving my friend wonderfully restored and tran- 
 quillised,, to finish the throw at his leisure, I hastened on to '' the 
 Sod Ditch," and close to a sunken rock, was once more successful. 
 The heavy stream and level margin were great odds in my favour, 
 and Mr. S. was soon well under command with the dark line of his 
 back above the water. " Keep off you, sir," to poor Willie, who 
 was calmly waiting his opportunity, "I'm going to land this one," 
 
 and suiting the action to the word L dashed at once into the 
 
 stream and made towards the fish, which slowly retreated as the 
 enemy advanced. On he marched, up to the knees over the knees 
 to mid thigh ; now the hips are covered, but at length he stands 
 face to face with the foe. I saw the gaff poised, and " felt " the 
 dull sound of the stab. With a heavy lunge the wounded animal 
 wrenched the smooth and polished handle from his hand. For an 
 instant fly, casting-line, the luckless weapon, the living and the 
 d}dng, were all "in wild confusion blent." For twenty or thirty 
 yards we watched the polished lignum vitse shaft whirled round and 
 round, and then vanish. The discomfited hero's look of real distress 
 and comical dismay were irresistible. " Oh, dear I what will Rowley 
 say ? Why don't you swear at me ? I know you're in a towering 
 rage, and 'twill do you good. You'll feel easier afterwards ; why 
 dont you swear at me ?" Four days after a fine salmon was found 
 dead on the shallows near the town. His size and the great rent 
 through the back assured us that we looked on the immediate cause 
 
 of the Major's grief and L 's chagrin. 
 
 The afternoon fulfilling its earlier promise was throughout 
 intensely hot. Experience, however, had long sho^vn that downright 
 hard work will effect more on the Erne than on any other of the 
 Irish waters. Indeed, the river is a perfect paradox, a sporting 
 contradiction ; and it has often been found that days seemingly the 
 most favourable too frequently turn out blanks, and that weather, 
 apparently impracticable, constantly affords first-rate angling. In 
 short, the professionals seldom like to stake their reputation on 
 a promise of success, and the eager and confident, " Well, Pat, this 
 
154 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 looks sometliing like, generally meets with the damper, '' May he 
 it is ; your Honour should know best ; but hick's all." 
 
 CHAPTER XXn. 
 
 Ballyshannon Salmon Leap ^White Trout Evening The Grass Yard 
 How Pat was brought to Life The Colonel Tries on his Boots, and John 
 doth a Tale unfold. 
 
 June 23. 
 The real run of fish in these water, though enormous, is very 
 limited in point of time. Taking the average of different seasons, 
 it may be said to extend from the 1st of June to the end of July : 
 a few hundred stragglers are, however, caught during the next twenty 
 days, and some earlier salmon are secured in May, together with a 
 few in April. 
 
 An idea may be formed of the numbers which enter the river 
 from the fact that during the height of the season it is not 
 uncommon to secure six or seven tons a day, the greater part of 
 which are taken in the pool below the falls by draughting. The 
 high grassy banks, which there rise from the water's edge, form a 
 favourite resort of strangers as well as residents, who appear year 
 after year to watch the operation with undiminished interest. Eas- 
 Aodh-Ruaidh, or Eed Hugh's Fall, called with more brevity and 
 less dignity "the leap," extends across the entire bed of the river, 
 and at low water has a perpendicular height of 12ft. All fish that 
 pass are safe, for no net ever robs the Erne of its treasures. 
 Thanks to the falls there is always a noble stock to benefit the 
 property and rejoice the sportsman ; a stock ever increasing through 
 the season, and only diminished by the angle. In most of the other 
 Irish fisheries the upper waters depend on rain for their supply ; but 
 here fresh salmon are continually entering the river, and at spring 
 tides himdreds pass every twenty-four hours. At such times it is 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 135 
 
 highly interesting to watch the desperate efforts of the silvery 
 creatures to leap the barrier as the tide rises. For a few seconds 
 all is still ; then, perhaps, a monster bounds from the water and is 
 seen for an instant quivering in the air ere he lights on the very 
 edge of the falls ; for a single moment he struggles with the 
 descending torrent, shoots through it like a stream of light, and 
 disappears in the calm deep sheet beyond. As if encouraged by 
 this success forty or fifty, perhaps, dash simultaneously at the 
 cataract. Some succeed, but more fail, to renew their attempts 
 again and again till finally triumphant. 
 
 Between this point and the Abbey of Asheroe, where a small 
 stream enters the estuary, there is in August and September very 
 good white trout-fishing, which, however, requires the use of a boat. 
 In May and June large numbers of brown trout, returning from the 
 sea, loiter for a time in the brackish water and afterwards ascend 
 the river. Every day in summer, diminutive boys may be seen 
 seated on the rocks angling for these fish (which inin from two to 
 five pounds) with a skill beyond their tender years. They seem to 
 take to it quite naturally ; perhaps the art has been transmitted to 
 these urchins from a long series of ancestors famous in all the 
 mysteries of the gentle art. The regulars of the Erne, in casting, 
 fly-tying, wading, and patience, are, in my opinion, unrivalled ; if to 
 this be added that, as a class, they are a most respectable set of 
 men ; I think they may fairly be said to stand at the head of the 
 profession. During the present season the river from Ballyshannon 
 to Beleek is let to nine rods, but I have no warrant for asserting 
 that a similar an-angement will prevail in 1866. The bridge and 
 
 the pool below, are reserved Dinner is over, and the 
 
 evening feels less sultry than usual, for a pleasant northerly air curls 
 the stream and whispers hope. As a general rule salmon rise best 
 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. ; and this remark, which is true of most 
 rivers, is particularly applicable to the Erne. Still many a fish is 
 killed here both earher and later by the persevering angler, though it 
 may be questioned whether the gain repays the toil. 
 
 The broken water above Kathleen's Fall will give us nothing 
 
136 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 Log-a-Thrummain turns a deaf ear to our entreaties the Angler's 
 Throw sees us wade in vain in the Sod Ditch two or three heavy 
 fish are rising to please themselves, but refuse to gratify us 
 Allingham's Point is as quiet as if it had never held a salmon. We 
 are weary, the river is dull, and everything seems flat and unprofit- 
 able. Shall we return and join the Colonel, who is thrashing away 
 below, or first try the Grass Yard ? Pat thinks our friends have 
 shut up for the evening, Willie rather inclines to the same belief. 
 In my heart I feel they are right ; but, being by nature obstinate, 
 cannot confess it. Eegularly done, we scrambled along the rough 
 and rocky way, crawled up the bank, and so gained the yard. For 
 once in his life my poor companion took the rod reluctantly, and. 
 waded, I fear unwillingly, into the strong stream, to a point that 
 gave him full command of this splendid lodge. Never had he 
 operated so execrably. I should have been sorry to swear he was 
 not fishing in his sleep. " There, that will do ; come along. It is 
 no use." Thirty or forty yards higher up the evening breeze faintly 
 ruffled the flat, near a low ledge ^fantastically carved by the winter 
 floods) where occasionally we had succeeded. " Give me the rod, 
 I'll take a throw there before we go." My tired comrade listlessly 
 went through the ceremony of presentation, and I delivered the 
 kind of cast a man is apt to make, when faint and hopeless. From 
 sheer laziness the fly was played close to the rock, where a spanking 
 salmon sailed quietly up and took it. I saw the fair deceiver 
 disappear within his jaws, opened like two white arms to receive 
 her, and, completely surprised, forgot courtesy my great obligations 
 all the proprieties in short and struck him rudely and furiously. 
 A loud crack announced that the full penalty of violated laws had 
 overtaken me, for the ill-used rod had snapped short off about six 
 feet from the point. It fell, however, into hands which could be 
 relied on in any emergency. The butt and wheel came necessarily 
 into my department, and by keeping the broken parts as nearly as 
 possible in one line we managed " the runs " very satisfactorily. 
 Once before, a similar accident bef el us, on which occasion we passed 
 through the trying ordeal with credit. The water was stiU and 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBELAND. 137 
 
 deep, the ground favourable, and each moment our hopes rose 
 higher and higher. Had Pat been at his post, once ah'eady he 
 might have been secured. *' Pat, Pat, where are you ? Pat, Pat, 
 huUo-o-o." It was like calling "spirits from the vasty deep ;" my 
 tricksy familiar heeded not. 'Twas too bad. " Here's another 
 chance." In the midst of a furious tirade against poor Patsy, by 
 good luck I stumbled over the gaff, kicked it to the delighted 
 Willie, who, in a second afterwards, with an indescribable grin (his 
 nearest approach to any outward manifestation of pleasure), landed. 
 a fish of 21^1bs. ; and in another minute we stood over the 
 deserter, stretched at full length on the shingles fast asleep, in 
 happy unconsciousness. Anathemas had not disturbed him, vows of 
 vengeance had not broken his rest, which would probably have 
 lasted till morning had not some malicious person recalled him to a 
 sense of his degraded situation by tickling his nostrils with the tail 
 of "a, cold, moist, unpleasant body." On our return we found the 
 Colonel near Kathleen's Fall, winding up for the night. 
 
 " Well, Walter, you really work like a horso, and ought sometimes 
 to get your com. Come and rest. 'Tis a cool, delicious evening. 
 I say, Pat, let me look at those boots." Taking a pair of Cording's 
 stockings in his hand, he continued, " Light and admirably efficient ; 
 there were no such things when I commenced my career here five 
 and thirty years ago. Heavy leather inconveniences were the thing 
 then; take a cigar, and hear what once happened to me just at 
 this place, on such an evening as this, in the far off days when, 
 tough and active as a gorilla, I hooked a 171b. salmon. After two 
 or three heavy runs he flew down the stream, when it became 
 instantly necessary to head, and close with him before the torrent 
 twisted the slack amongst the rocks. In floundering to the bank I 
 was soon up to my waist, and as may easily be conceived, six or 
 seven pounds of water on each leg were heavy odds against winning 
 the race. Still it was won, and in fifteen minutes my antagonist was 
 dead beat and safely landed by Mike he's dead and gone now 
 who was at that time my attendant and backer; and to do him 
 justice a better fellow never handled a gaff. After an exulting 
 
138 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 whoop I lit a cigar with infinite satisfaction, pulled off my boots, 
 poured out the water, and hung myself out to dry, here above 
 Kathleen's Fall. Carelessly casting the line as I sat dangling my 
 legs over the water, the fly was instantly taken by a regular rasper. 
 I was up in a second. Mike was utterly bothered by such an unusual 
 combination of circumstances ; a lodge, where our salmon was safe 
 not to remain five minutes, bare feet, and two hundred yards of the 
 sharpest and most broken rocks in all Ireland on the very course he 
 was sure to take, and that, too, at a pace requiring the utmost exer- 
 tions of an active man to keep up with. ' Holy Mary,' he exclaimed, 
 in an agony of despair, * oh. Holy Mary,' what a murthering sin, and 
 him, too, so big ! the ould rogue, bad luck to him, we'll be bate 
 entirely.' 'The boots Mike, the boots!' I roared, with an energy 
 corresponding to the excitement of mind and anguish of body. Had 
 I gone barefoot on a pilgrimage to Loretto, I could not have suffered 
 half so much. Poor Mike pulled manfully at the reeking leather in 
 the almost hopeless endeavour to get it on, whilst I kicked like a 
 madman to help him. ' Hould him, hould him, your honour !' and 
 faith it was time, for the fish was within six inches of the edge of 
 the torrent. By great good luck he turned and shot up the water 
 like an arrow ; we breathed again, and for a moment felt secure. By 
 desperate struggling and pulling we contrived at length to get one 
 boot on and the other partly so ; but a rebellious fold still held out 
 in spite of our superhuman endeavours ; whish, whish, wl^-i-s-h, 
 groaned the wheel : ' he's over,' and away we went, tumbling, 
 scrambling, jumping, slipping, and recovering, bruised and breathless. 
 The gallant foe made one vain effort to head the stream. Those few 
 seconds enabled me to come up and bring him under the rod. It 
 was now ten to one on the fly, and in a few minutes after Mike landed 
 a splendid fellow of three-and-twenty pounds." 
 
 Many a star was shining in the deep blue sky, and the moon had 
 risen over Stonewall, yet the commander showed no intention of 
 breaking up his bivouac. 
 
 "Is that Causan-a-Mhanaigh where the moonlight rests, John?" 
 ; to his squire. 
 
SALMON ANGLINa IN IRELAND. 139 
 
 " Faith, then, it is the Monk's Path ; and the best o' raisons why 
 it should be called the same." Here John seated himself on an 
 opposite fragment of rock, with an air half solemn, half mysterious. 
 I saw he was in the legendary vein ; so, charging the meerschaum, 
 I resigned myself to the infliction. 
 
 " In ould ancient times in the mountains beyant, there lived a raal 
 gintleman, Euaidh O'Rooke. Now, Ruaidh, your honour, was a wild 
 slip of a boy who spent his time between gamin', dancin', huntin', 
 drinkin', fightin', and the girls ; and it chanced somehow, quare 
 enough, that he spint all his money too. Now, Sir Phalim, the 
 master's elder brother, was not sich a gentleman as Ruaidh at all, at 
 all. Not a pin cared he for the ladies seeing he was married ; so for 
 that matther was the master and as to dogs, not a sowl of 'em dared 
 wag a tail in his company but one ould wolf-hound, a great favourite, 
 d'ye see. His only divarsions were readin' in a big book, as dull and 
 silent as himself, or stalkin' over the hills with Dhugh (for that was 
 the haste's name) at his back. Now, seein' the master spint all and 
 Sir Phalim not a copper, small blame to him for borrowing what 
 what was no use in life to his brother. But when the scholar came 
 to know it, och, blood and turf, but he gets into a tunderin' passion, 
 bade him begone, and make a fortin as good as he'd marred. Yer 
 honour may take your book oath the master didn't lave his blessin' 
 behind him. Mary stand atween us and evil wasn't there a too-roo 
 that*.night at the castle ! Such murtherin', screechin', and yellin', 
 rampin' and tearin', howlin' and moanin' the Lord be good to us I 
 Not a mother's son closed an eye, and when momin' came there was 
 the big book, but devil a sign of Sir Phalim or his dog. All this was 
 mighty strange. At last the praist, with the tooth of St. Bridget, 
 knocks at his door ; and who but the raal clargy dare venter ? All 
 was still, and his riverence lifts the latch, and sure he'd been kilt 
 entirely savin' the relic ; for there lay Sir Phalim with a black mark 
 round his neck, stiff and cold, and the dumb baste by his side cryin' 
 like any other Christian. In course of time the master was found, 
 and mighty pale he turned with grief, and mighty fond he got of his 
 brother's wee daughter, and a beautiful crathur she grew, and all the 
 
140 A YEAR or LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 world knew that she was to have her uncle's eldest son, for the great 
 fortin, says he, came by her and should go to her. But the lady 
 lived in the heart of the youngest, and loved a fond glance of his eye 
 more nor all the lands of the other ; which, as yer honour knows, 
 was veiy parvarse. When the master came to know it he wasn't 
 mighty well pleased you may be sure ; so he founded that abbey 
 yonder for the glory of God, and piously made his younger son prior 
 of the same, and there stands the old walls this blessed minute. 
 But the lovely lady, as bright as the moonlight, took sick and was 
 like to die, till, night after night, unknown to a sowl, the prior 
 crossed this spot to comfort the sick, and before the eye of the 
 momin' was opened, stole back to his convent to hide his Christian 
 charity. The lady recovered, and for love of holy Church came 
 evermore to this place with his riverence to receive his blessin'. One 
 morn she niver returned, for the monk was found drowned in the 
 ford, and the maiden cold and dead where the Colonel is sittin'. Thus 
 your honour sees how, all along of Sir Phalim not livin' as a gintle- 
 man ought, nor lendin' his money, the devil flew away wid him ; a 
 swate young crathur broke her heart, a holy saint was drowned, and 
 how evermore this strame was called Causan-a-Mhanaigh, or the 
 Monk's Path." 
 
 I looked wistfully at the deep and dark river ; the time, the place, 
 the faith of the narrator, and the simple tale of love and murder, 
 produced their full effect ; and I am ashamed to own how often that 
 night I thought of the ill-starred monk and hapless maid. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBELAND, HI 
 
 CHAPTER XXm. 
 
 The Colonel takes Command of an Expedition Through many Dangers we 
 arrive safely at Beleek, and troll on the Lake for anything we can catch 
 After Mess the Crew cut their Sticks, but subsequently return to Duty A 
 desperate Character Westward Ho ! 
 
 Jtme 27. 
 My stout old friend the Colonel, though fast verging towards the 
 fatal " three score years and ten," is yet hale and hearty ; place him 
 in a boat, and he will work as well as the youngest ; but he finds 
 the world rougher than it used to be, and detests all unnecessary 
 pedal locomotion. Without 
 
 Larding the lean earth as he walks along, 
 
 the commander yet agrees with honest old Jack, that '* eight yards 
 of uneven ground is three score and ten miles a foot with me," and 
 in this mood proposed, as we strolled towards the town, that we 
 should visit Lough Erne. To me his wish is law. So it was settled 
 then and there, under the quiet stars, that we should start early on 
 the following morning for Beleek, and declare war against the trout 
 and pike. 
 
 We had been busily engaged in preparing tackle for the expedition ; 
 had finished the morning meal ; packed up a basket of provender ; 
 and yet it was not eight o'clock, at which hour the Colonel had 
 covenanted to be at my door with chariot and horse. With him 
 " promise " and " perform " were synonymous, and, as I conjectured, 
 on the last stroke of the hour he drove up. What a conscience that 
 man must have, to expect one wretched animal to drag a lady, five 
 stout men, three baskets, and two heavy hampers all the way to 
 Beleek ! But so it was to be. With the exception of the Colonel, 
 we walked up the steep street, and then rolled heavily along the old 
 road, past the pretty villa of Laputa by heath and moorland by 
 rock and coppice ; came to a stand from a fractured trace, near the 
 
142 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 hospitable Mullens ; repaired damages, and, passing " the point," 
 wound our slow way up the opposite hill, and there fairly broke 
 down. Brought thus to a stand, we paused to look about us. 
 Around lay an extensive planting of Scotch and larch firs, filling 
 the morning air with their sweetness. Our position enabled us to 
 trace the road we had hitherto followed ; to see many a comfortable 
 cottage with slated roof and well-glazed windows, each one a 
 panegyric on the owner of the property ; whilst far below, the river, 
 rushing through wooded and overhanging banks, toiled and raved 
 with unceasing din, foaming on in beautiful variety, till it swept 
 round the Mullens and was lost to our gaze. Under a heavy press 
 of rods, baskets, cloaks, and hampers, we staggered into the little 
 hamlet of Beleek, once famous as a military station, commanding 
 the passage between Fermanagh and Donegal, and now illustrious as 
 possessing an admirable fisherman's rest, where some of '' ours " 
 usually take up their quarters. Under the south wall of this 
 pleasant hostelry, the mighty river like a boy let loose from school 
 laughs, leaps, and tumbles, and within less than fifty yards of the 
 door are the falls of which such honourable mention is made by 
 " The Angler in Ireland," as the scene of his most killing days. 
 Whilst the boat was being prepared, we strolled to the little 
 bridge, under whose low solitary arch rush the whole surplus 
 waters of the lake. This is the narrowest part of the Erne, which, 
 for the space of ten or twelve yards, cannot be above twenty feet 
 wide ; but the depth of its rocky bed is unknown. Not far from 
 this spot we embarked, and pulled away over the widening water to 
 the lake. 
 
 Lough Erne lies almost entirely in Fermanagh, which it loves so 
 well, as to traverse the county from end to end. Passing diagonally 
 through its whole length, it offers a greater extent of internal navi- 
 gation than any other of the Irish lakes. Even many of the larger 
 streams which empty themselves into it, are used by the flat- 
 bottomed boats of the country for two or three miles of their course. 
 Moving tranquilly over the bosom of the lake, we confessed few 
 scenes could be more lovely. Of course, it cannot be compared fpr 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 143 
 
 a moment with Killarney ; yet here, perhaps, imagination has greater 
 room to weave her pleasant spells. "Winding amidst mountains, not 
 a tenth part of it can be seen at once ; each fresh reach as it opens 
 produces something unlike that which preceded it here a cluster of 
 islets, mere fantastic rocks there some sweet and quiet spot covered 
 with emerald turf, gay with flowers, and dotted with sheep now a 
 rich flat completely hidden by a growth of luxuriant timber ; then 
 an island farm, a little world in itself, with its patch of grain, tethered 
 cow, and shaggy goat. 
 
 In these matter of fact days the spirit of romance, banished from 
 every other comer of the empire, seems here to have found a con- 
 genial resting-place in the bosoms of the people, whence it peeps out 
 in a thousand ways ^in a passionate love of old places, old names, 
 and old burial grounds and the stranger seated in his " cot " is 
 even yet occasionally startled from his reverie as the 
 
 Loud " Wul-wulleh " warns his distant ear. 
 
 The next reach, perhaps, shows him a fimeral procession gliding over 
 the calm water, and the long thrilling howl breaks louder on his 
 ear as the corpse is borne along, to be laid in kindred dust, side 
 by side with the bones of those, whose actions and whose memories 
 are so "dangerously dear" to the heart of the Irish peasant. 
 
 That part of Lough Erne south-east of Inniskillen is called the 
 upper, and that towards Beleek the lower lake. The former is 
 narrow, full of islands, rather shallow, not exceeding fifty feet in 
 any part ; whilst the latter is a much finer sheet of water, having 
 in some places a depth of from 200 to 230 feet ; but this, however, 
 in common with other lakes, is varied and irregular. The shores 
 on the southern side are bold and romantic, stretching further than 
 the eye can follow in alternate moor, moss, and mountain till 
 they join the extensive highland ranges of Cavan and Leitrim. Li 
 winter the west winds are so violent as to render the navigation of 
 the lake a source of great danger, but to-day they slept as if they 
 would never wake again, and many a beautiful cutter yacht, with all 
 sails spread, hardly owned the influence of the light and fitful air. 
 
144 
 
 A YEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 This huge lake has been called the "Windermere of Ireland ; and of 
 all the wrongs inflicted by the Saxon on this much-complaining 
 land, this is about the greatest and most tangible. Windermere, 
 indeed ! Well, the love of country is praiseworthy, but not when 
 it makes a man tell fibs. Possibly the comparison was meant as a 
 compliment ; we hope so, and must pardon the infatuation, for the 
 sake of the intention. Lough Erne does not offer one dull or 
 uninteresting view. Bound its whole shores beauty reigns every- 
 where ; slopes, the fairest and greenest, rise from its margin ; finely 
 wooded promontories stretch far into its bosom, forming calm inlets 
 and peaceful bays; the islands are imrivalled in loveliness, and 
 number about one hundred and eighty. 
 
 At its eastern end stands Devenish, known far and wide for its 
 ruins and graceful round tower, the most perfect in the kingdom. 
 This mysterious edifice seems as fresh as the day in which unknown 
 hands laid the last stone. Over each loophole or window, imme- 
 diately under the cornice, rests a fine sculptured head. How many 
 centuries have these silent watchers looked out on the inconstant 
 world around? The iron horse snorts near, and noble mansions 
 have risen, owned by a new race. How lonely the grey old seers 
 must feel ; there is nothing to remind them of the far-off time when 
 they were young, By day they are silent; under the starry sky, 
 which is also unchanged, do they hold converse on what was, 
 what is, and is to be. If Mr. Home would throw one of these old 
 gentlemen into a clairvoyant state, and make him tell us all he knew, 
 I should perhaps believe there was something in his science after all. 
 
 It is too bad to leave my- party so long. Here I am at the east 
 end of Lough Erne, whilst my friends are at the opposite extremity. 
 Well, I must once more take an oar, and tug that savage old Colonel, 
 who is growling like an ancient " grizzly," to the ground. He tells 
 me the various races in this watery realm do not live on amicable 
 teiins ; that the trout stand on their gentility, and will not associate 
 with the bream ; that the perch fall out with the roach, and the 
 pike are universally detested. Yet my old friend troubles not him- 
 self about these intestine divisions, but is eagerly selecting the best 
 
SALMON ANQLINa IN IRELAND. 145 
 
 of our tackle, with such haste that I occasionally hear him asking 
 John to extract a hook from his jacket, or beseeching Willie to take 
 "that confounded barb" out of his finger. In the construction of 
 these trolling traces we have made allowance for " jack," the trebles 
 being tied on six inches of fine gimp and there goes the Colonel's 
 first venture. 
 
 Having resolved on giving a public dinner, we issued a general 
 invitation, and by a liberal carte hope to please all. Over the stem 
 twirls a delicate roach and an artificial minnow ; from either quarter 
 revolves a coUiogh and a small spoon ; and, grace being said, we 
 wait patiently for the expected guests. 
 
 "Hullo! you there," bawled the Colonel, whose line from the 
 headway of the boat was running at a rate which soon threatened 
 to bring it to an end. " Stop back why the deuce don't you 
 back ? Back as hard as you can !" The fulfilment of these orders 
 restored to my friend much of his cordage and more of his temper. 
 Something heavy was on the rod, but whether salmon, trout, or pike 
 was uncertain. Presently we caught sight of the overhanging brows 
 and sinister aspect of the latter, who was satisfactorily disposed of 
 shortly after. Next the spoon came into favour, and ladled out 
 perch after perch with great celerity. Then the fickle goddess 
 again sat in the stem sheets, and gave the veteran another stout 
 pike of 81b., and a trout of 31b. ; and so we fished and chatted 
 till the soldier protested it was high time for tiflSn, when we 
 pulled in for a piece of lawny turf, where kindly nature had already 
 pitched a marquee for our use, which by a careless observer might 
 have been mistaken for a sycamore. No picnic can be a success 
 without a fire ; ours soon smouldered, and gradually arrived at 
 cooking order. Fillets were cut from the best pike ; our trout had 
 the honour of a spit to himself ; and a 21b. perch was given up to 
 the Colonel. How scientifically he conducted each stage in the 
 delicate operation ! First, some wood cinders were placed on a flat 
 stone, and the fish laid thereon ; next, the upper surface was dotted 
 all over with small morsels of butter ; then cayenne was liberally 
 dusted over the whole ; and a trifle of salt, with just a suspicion of 
 
 L 
 
146 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 flour, brought the dish to its culminating point. What a first 
 course it was ! Oh, ye sons of hixury, who, after a muttered 
 grace (for the sake of the children), sit down to anathematise 
 the soup, growl at the fishmonger, swear at the butcher, 
 vow vengeance on your poulterer, and consign your particular 
 cook to a place hotter than the kitchen fire ^had you hut 
 been with us at our cheerful meal, would. you have sneered at 
 our grateful acceptance of so many good things? Probably you 
 would. 
 
 Our party consisted of an old man, a gentle lady, a poor angler, 
 and four or five humble followers, whose united dinner costume 
 could not have been worth a pound. Would you have liked the 
 company? I fear your magnificence would have despised our 
 simplicity ; your wisdom, our folly ; so we are better without you, 
 and may proceed with our meal without fear of criticism. Our 
 crockery was not what it ought to have been. The hosts were only 
 allowed a willow-pattern plate each ; but the comfort of the company 
 was carefully attended to every man having a good supply of those 
 necessary articles, green in colour, beautiful in shape, and bearing a 
 strong likeness to the shining leaves of the Rumex aquaticus. After 
 fish came a fore-quarter of kid, a hind one of lamb, a couplo of 
 chickens, tongue, and two mighty tarts, which, being disposed of, 
 the party drank and were merry. The poor angler before mentioned 
 brewed a pint of cofi'ee for his own special use, while John placed 
 two bottles of Bass's India ale within a convenient distance of his 
 master, who, lighting a cigar about five inches long by three in 
 circumference, resigned himself to calm contemplation. Near us 
 were several grassy earthworks known as raths, or Danish camps ; 
 the latter name very probably a misnomer, as they are found in 
 numberless places where those northern rovers are believed never to 
 have penetrated. It is therefore more natural to suppose they were 
 thrown up by each clan round their wigwams, as a defence against 
 any sudden attack from an enemy. Such forts are met with all 
 over the island, near the coast, far from the sea, in valleys and on 
 hills, and were, in all probability, the strongholds of barbarians 
 
SALMON ANOLINO IN IBELAND. 147 
 
 wlioae lives were passed either in carrying off other people's goods or 
 defending their own. 
 
 All sublunary things will come to an end if we have but patience, 
 and so at last did the Colonel's cigar ; but the sun was now shining 
 in his might, and the lake glowed like a sheet of molten silver. A 
 council of war being summoned, returned a unanimous verdict that 
 nothing could be done except with ground bait. The Colonel here 
 came out strong, and spoke something in this wise : The first great 
 object of fishing was to take fish ; if they would behave in a gentle- 
 manly way, and feed on the surface, well ; but if they refused what 
 was offered to them on the top, try the bottom. The second 
 important design of angling, he continued, was to produce health. 
 Now, what tended so much to nervous and physical integrity as a 
 cheerful frame of mind ? and what was more calculated to make a 
 man at peace with himself and the world around, than success ? If 
 they won't take fly or troll, give them the worm. These opinions 
 being adopted by acclamation, all hands set eagerly to work ^hazel 
 wands were cut and trimmed, and bait collected ; whilst Willie 
 opened a rural kind of " store," and gave out gut, bad hooks, wax, 
 and split shot, to the ship's company. Keeping near the shore, in 
 six or seven feet of water, half a dozen sections of cork once the 
 property of Messrs. Bass or Guinness soon dotted the surface of 
 the lake, for a moment or two lay motionless, and then commenced 
 dipping and diving in quick succession. The perch were our first 
 guests ; then came in a bream shaped like a pair of bellows, and 
 nearly as large as one of the fancy articles often seen hanging in a 
 lady's drawing-room ; then some little trout, bright as if they had 
 dined on a sunbeam. Hitherto the Colonel had not exchanged a 
 single shot with the enemy ; but now he was fiercely attacked. 
 With the point of his light trout-rod bent to the butt, the gallant 
 veteran resisted all the assaults of his foe. Tug, tug, tug I What 
 can it be ? John, who had been peering into the water, averred 
 that though the creature was kicking up a great dust at the bottom, 
 he caught a glimpse of something at least three feet long. My friend 
 opined it was a red salmon, or the devil. Little by little he neared 
 
 L 2 
 
148 A YEAB OF liberty; or, 
 
 the surface, and lo I 'twas a huge eel, whicli I netted, and showed 
 some little common sense by cutting the gut before turning him 
 loose amongst the feet of the company. What a rookrawn he 
 produced racing hither and thither playing all manner of slippery 
 tricks, gliding between the legs of one, and through the hands of 
 another, gallantly refusing to yield, though surrounded by foes. 
 The crew were in despair. John crossed himself devoutly. A 
 certain little lady and the dear old commander, standing on a beam, 
 were nearly capsized in the confusion, which at length happily 
 terminated by one of the boatmen jamming the desperado against a 
 timber, and decapitating him. After this, grog was served out to 
 the entire ship's company, who again went to work with fresh 
 energy ; nor did they cease till the poor sun, sick of our world, 
 plunged desperately into the ocean. 
 
 That night the well of the car was filled with the spoils, which 
 consisted of seven or eight pike, a stone or two of rough fish, and 
 over all laid out in state was the great eel, which must have been 
 very flavoury, if the taste bore any ratio to the smell. The day had 
 been delightful metaphorically and almost literally without a cloud, 
 and the Colonel warmly pressed us to join him in another expedition 
 to Lough Erne and also in one to Lough Melvin. But the rosy 
 month of June was fast passing away, and I, already due on the Moy, 
 was compelled to decline what it would have given me so much 
 pleasure to accept. 
 
 During my too short sojourn of three weeks, the sport had been 
 excellent not so much, however, in point of numbers as with respect 
 to weight. True, we had worked hard, often making 
 
 The night joint labourer with the day ; 
 
 had our disappointments, blank days, and accidents ; but then we 
 had twenty-eight fish to show, amongst which were only two small 
 ones, of 61b. and 81b. respectively. In no other river in L'eland 
 could salmon so uniformly fine have been secured by the rod, 
 nor do I know any other station where so much could have been 
 done during so adverse a season. The great and comparatively 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBELAND. 149 
 
 unvarying volume of water the heavy runs ^the large and 
 constant supply of fresh fish, all contributed to this happy con- 
 summation. During a somewhat long acquaintance with the Erne, 
 my three best days (in point of number) produced only nine, six, 
 and five salmon, and with the first even of these very moderate 
 figures, the fly, I am sorry to confess, had little to do. If a friend 
 will pardon me for expressing my feeling and experience in his 
 words : "I would rather kill a salmon at the Bank of Ireland or the 
 Grass Yard, than in any other throw which dwells in my memory. 
 The Erne is, for its length, as varied and delightful a river as I 
 know, and contains every variety of cast. Good fishing, great 
 perseverance, with perhaps the least dash of luck in the world, 
 are required to succeed well on it. Great bags are seldom made, 
 but the quality of the sport, when you can get it, is A 1." 
 Thus writes Mr. Francis Francis. Every word is true, just, and 
 discriminating. 
 
 Kind hands were shaken we earnestly hope, not for thQ last 
 time the luggage was packed, and early on the following morning 
 we rolled over the long bridge ; cast a lingering look at the pool, 
 where many a widening ring reminded us of happy hours and 
 former triumphs, and, passing through the Purt, were soon speeding 
 towards the pretty seaside village of Bundoran, on our westward 
 course. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Ballysidere Its Fishery and Fishing. 
 
 June 30. 
 How soon the present glides down into the past. How rapidly our 
 periodical literature grows old, changes its name, becomes condensed, 
 and takes rank as history. Even the condition of our rivers prior to 
 the late Act a thing of yesterday is already being forgotten ; and 
 
150 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OE, 
 
 how little is known of earlier legislation, designed for the common 
 good ; or of the long course of suicidal evasions of those laws which 
 reduced our rivers to the brink of ruin. But this is a hackneyed 
 theme ; those evil days are past, and are now matter of history, so 
 we will lay the volume on the shelf, whence hereafter it may be 
 taken, dusty, discoloured, and worm-eaten, to furnish subjects for 
 congratulation to those who live in happier times, when our waters 
 yield their increase, and salmon shall be sold for threepence a pound. 
 When that period arrives, men whose present labours are now lightly 
 regarded, will be held up as public benefactors, whose philanthropy 
 and wisdom entitle them to the grateful remembrance of posterity. 
 
 Half a century ago angling for salmon was so little practised that 
 few persons, except those resident in favoured localities, knew any- 
 thing about it ; and, only forty years since rod fishing was held in 
 such small account that our Acts contained no clause whatever for its 
 regulation. In fact, there is as much fashion in recreation as there 
 is in jdress, and angling at present is undoubtedly the newest mode. 
 Twenty years ago boys were content with football, marbles, rounders, 
 or cricket; and when they went to Cambridge or the sister uni- 
 versity, boating was so *' exigant " that it became the passion. But 
 now, contemporaneously with the first suit, comes home the first 
 outfit for the juvenile disciple of Old Izaak, who shoulders his basket, 
 and, on half -holidays, goes as regularly to the nearest water as did the 
 youth of an earlier generation to the cricket field or the tennis court. 
 What would one of these ardent young spirits say, if he knew that 
 when his father was engaged at a solemn game of leapfrog, the law 
 took so little care of the interests of upper proprietors that the 
 salmon harvest was reaped only at the mouths of rivers ; that such 
 rights were alone deemed worthy of protection ; and that a fresh fish 
 on the higher spawning grounds was almost as much a rara avis as 
 a bustard now is on Salisbury Plain ? Probably " my old governor 
 has been," he would remark, " paying two and nine per pound all his 
 life, and it sarves him right." That is one way to speak of the 
 subject. Another is, that having neglected or squandered our 
 substance, we must endure the penalty. Happily punishment has 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 151 
 
 produced repentance, and repentance newness of life. Let us, 
 however, remember that good resolutions are nil without a patient 
 continuance in well doing. 
 
 About four miles beyond the town of Sligo the great western road 
 runs through the village and close to the river of Ballysidere, and 
 along this route our party posted gaily early in the morning of the 
 last day of June. I had often passed this pretty stream, and always 
 regretted my inability to spend a few hours on its banks ; now, 
 however, with time at my disposal, I looked forward with eager 
 anticipation to a day on an untried water. But over and above the 
 charm of wandering over gi'ound previously unknown was another 
 source of interest, the fishery itself, which may be considered an 
 illustration of what fish cultivation can effect. 
 
 Eleven years since Ballysidere could hardly be said to have had 
 an existence as a fishery. A few salmon and trout scramble over the 
 falls and reach the spawning grounds, to fonn a nucleus on which 
 skill and enterprise were soon about to act. In 1854 or 1855 
 ladders were erected, and now mark the results. During the first 
 season 18 fish were taken ; in the following year 203 ; and, as the 
 excellent manager said, " every subsequent one grew better and 
 better." By the 29th of June, 1863 a very early date, be it ob- 
 served 522 fish were on the books, and by the 3rd of July, 1865^ 
 with four or five of the best weeks yet to come ^the numbers were 
 1482. Thus a fishery has been created in a period not exceeding 
 eleven or twelve years. Here, indeed, is a bright example of what 
 can be effected ; an example which should be held up for the 
 encouragement of all who possess water rights. Were such pro- 
 prietors animated only by commercial views, what golden realities 
 are before them ; but if influenced by higher considerations, 
 what benefactors, might they not become to the age in which 
 they live. I have spoken of Ballysidere merely as a fishery, 
 as a light set on a hill, which ought not to be hid ; so trust the 
 present owner will forgive me, and pardon the unauthorised liberty 
 which has been taken with his property, for the sake of the spirit 
 that prompted the remarks. 
 
152 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 During tlie present campaign we have not made the acquaintance 
 of a single white trout. The season is still early, and a month must 
 yet elapse before they make their appearance in the great majority of 
 our streams, but here partly deceived by our own enthusiasm ve 
 w^re induced to believe they had arrived long since. Probably 
 every reader knows that as there are spring and summer salmon, so 
 also are there spring and summer trout, which last occupy to each 
 other exactly the same relations as exist between the spring fish and 
 the grilse. As few rivers at present hold early salmon, so also few 
 contain early trout, though the latter, however, extend over a wider 
 range than the former. The excellence, beauty, strength, and 
 courage of these creatures render them special favourites with all 
 anglers, and it was the hope of enjoying a morning in their society 
 that chiefly made me so anxious to visit Ballysidere ; not, however, 
 that my expectations were limited to these, as I knew there were 
 always plenty of grilse in the water after the first fresh in June. If 
 I add that the terms for angling are extremely moderate ^half-a- 
 crown for a single venture, or one pound per month, together with a 
 fish each day, I think my duty to the public has been done hand- 
 somely, and that I may now go my way in peace.* 
 
 The Ballysidere (formed by the union of the Awinmore and the 
 Arrow, which unite near the town of CoUooney), after leaping over 
 a succession of limestone ledges, thunders in a beautiful cascade into 
 the west-south-west corner of Sligo Bay. Our first glance at the 
 water showed us that it was neither high nor low. A light north- 
 east breeze just curled the surface, and ever and anon a great fleecy 
 cloud passed over the sun, making altogether a very pleasant com- 
 bination. The selection of flies could not occupy much time, as our 
 entire stock tied on the previous night only consisted of five ; 
 three diminutive articles for the " springers " we expected, but did 
 not find and two very small ones for grilse. Mounting our favourite 
 black palmer, as dropper, we looped on the trail, whose prominent 
 
 * The river, together with a pretty cottage, is now, I believe^ to be let to one 
 or two rods. Terms, 100/. per annum. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBBLAND. 153 
 
 features were undyed seal's fur and jungle cock wing, and with 
 these we made a preliminary cast in a state of mind any anointed 
 king " under the canopy " might have envied. 
 
 I know not how it is, but the first day on a new water always 
 seems a success. Perhaps we are more than usually disposed to be 
 pleased, perhaps we work harder ; but however this may be, fortune 
 soon smiled upon us. 
 
 " There he was, you didn't see him," quietly observed my com- 
 panion, who, standing close to my left shoulder, watched the water 
 with his usual gravity, whilst his careless master was gazing upwards 
 at a heavy woolpack, speculating how long it would be ere the soft 
 white mass must cross the sun. 
 
 " What was it ; did you catch a glimpse of him ? " 
 
 " Maybe 'twas a trout, may be a shy fish ; but we'll change the 
 trail anyhow. It wor a very small break, but mortal quick." 
 
 In a moment the second fly was on, and the edge of the cloud just 
 touched the sun as the line dropped lightly on the stream a few yards 
 above the spot where the stranger lay ; the next cast came fairly 
 over him. There was a slight ripple and a delicious feeling of tension 
 my fingers tingle even now with the remembrance a desperate 
 race over the shallow, and such a bound ! oh, who would not be an 
 angler ? 
 
 '' I think he is hooked foul, master, for I seen something black and 
 white, like a jungle cock, a sticking on his side." 
 
 Fair or foul, we were in for a race. Our tackle was as light as it 
 could well be, and the employment of force impossible. Now, 
 galloping along with an active fresh-run grilse at the end of your 
 line, is not quite so easy a condition of things as at first sight might 
 appear, for the rod must constantly be maintained in position, and 
 the eyes of the angler ought to be fixed on two different points at 
 one and the same time, which is not a feat easy of execution unless 
 he squints horribly. If his attention be exclusively directed to the 
 water, he is in momentary danger of a grand downfall, which is safe 
 to eventuate in irremediable ruin. If, on the other hand, he 
 neglects the movements of the fish, and is too careful about his own, 
 
154 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; Ofi, 
 
 the wrong-headed party is sure to take the other side of some post, 
 boulder, or islet, and so Piscator comes to grief. With Scylla on 
 the right and Charybdis on the left, we endeavoured to steer a 
 middle course ; but the ship was not well under command, was 
 running at an awful rate, and, moreover, there were rocks ahead. In 
 plain language, we were all three tearing along as hard as we could. 
 Ml*. Grilse led, seemingly as fresh as ever. Eod followed next, 
 puffing and blowing ; and Gaf brought up the rear, blown. But the 
 worst remains to be told. There was a stiff fence in the way which 
 must be dealt with in the next half minute, unless the fish turned. 
 To get anything more out of "Willie was impossible, as he was doing 
 his best ; so, putting on a desperate spurt in order to recover as 
 much of the line as was possible, I dashed at the bank ; was too 
 done to reach the crest, came heavily with my chest against the top, 
 and rolled over into the ditch on the other side. Staggering to my 
 feet, sky, earth, and river whirled before my eyes ; whilst a doleful 
 voice seemed singing in my ears, "My fut is jammed in a root, 
 not a toe can I stir ; sorra take him for a salmon ; we'll be run out 
 and broke entirely; oh! worra-worra." Instinctively I stretched 
 out my hand for the butt, and once more took up the running. 
 Fortunately, the pace grew less severe, and in the next pool the 
 fugitive came to a halt. The speed had told, and the tackle, light 
 as it was, now became fuUy equal to the strength of the exhausted 
 fish. With one shoe on and the other left in the furze, my trusty 
 comrade limped up. 
 
 " The toes is off me, and my fut's all in a jelly," as he slipped the 
 steel under the grilse ; " but this pays for all. Will I ever find the 
 shoe ? " 
 
 In the act of falling, the rod had been jerked out of my hand, but 
 luckily dropped on a bush, where it lay with the wheel, clear, but 
 revolving at a fearful rate, till Willie came up and once more set 
 things right. In his hurry to cross, one foot had for the moment 
 become firmly wedged, when fortunately I, in turn, came to the rescue 
 in the nick of time. The poor feUow must have tugged desperately 
 to wrench himself out of the trap, as we found a portion of the 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 156 
 
 stocking still in the leather, from which by main force he had screwed 
 out the imprisoned member. 
 
 In a salmon river, where one fish lodges there are sure to be others ; 
 so we trudged back to the point from which we started, and worked 
 over the water for the second time. 
 
 " That's remarkable nate un-common illigant," in a pleased 
 soliloquy, as a short stout fish, feeling the steel, executed a per- 
 pendicular leap, quivering for an instant high in air. " Thim 
 trouts is fit to do a'most anything. Murther, but he's at it agen." 
 A vigorous fish of this species is, weight for weight, stronger 
 than a salmon, and requires delicate handling not that I mis- 
 trusted the little black palmer, for O'Shaughnessy is always 
 true ; yet there was considerable uncertainty as to the " catch " 
 being sufiicient. Minute after minute passed, and at length the 
 captive found all his strength barely sufficient to enable him to 
 keep his head under water. Gradually the broad tail worked 
 more and more feebly over the surface. Now he is almost within 
 reach of a gaff that never strikes in vain, and now his race is run. 
 
 Laying down the rod, I walked up to my companion who was 
 stooping over the fish with an aspect in which astonishment and 
 mortification were ludicrously blended. 
 
 "It am't one after all, master." 
 
 " What is it then ? " for the speaker stood between me and the 
 prize. 
 
 " He's only a grilse." 
 
 Imagination within proper limits is doubtless an excellent quality, 
 but ours had been boundless ; we expected to find spring trout in 
 the river, and information correctly given, but imperfectly under- 
 stood, completed the delusion. The en-or, however, was mine 
 fancy converted a fallacy into a fact a well made summer salmon 
 into a spring trout. 
 
 Subsequently we learned that this water does not contain these 
 fish, a few small summer trout excepted, which rarely attain a 
 greater weight than three quarters of a pound. Although the renewal 
 of our acquaintance with the white trout, had been thus unexpectedly 
 
156 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 delayed, we may, whilst on the subject, say a few words about them. 
 In some rivers possessing large head waters these fish attain a 
 considerable size. At Waterville, for example, they are often taken 
 in the cuts in February, weighing 101b. and 111b. ; and at Delphi, I 
 have heard, they are occasionally caught up to the unusual weight 
 of 161b. Nothing so good as this ever came in my way, and the 
 heaviest I have yet killed did not exceed 81b. 
 
 ''Jack's Hole," " The Mill Eace," " The Iron Hole," and many 
 another, had all been tried ; there was a delicious uncertainty about 
 every cast, and we fished on with unabated spirit. At last we 
 reached a beautiful lodge the name of which I know not and 
 presently " stuck " in a grilse, which, being fairly hooked, fought 
 valiantly and died like a gentleman. In five minutes more I was 
 fast on another, and at 
 
 The high topgallant of my joy, 
 
 when a small silvery voice struck terror to my heart. 
 
 " Arrah, Willie, do ye call this dacent behaviour, and the mistress 
 all alone wid herself, bating the two kars and the drivers, waiting in 
 the road for an hour ? " Now, mademoiselle was a linguist ; at 
 least she spoke what might be called two languages remarkably 
 pure Saxon and remarkably impure patois ; all of which, as contained 
 in the above oration, was of course designed for me, though 
 addressed to my companion. For once in his life that " hereditary 
 bondsman" lost his habitual fear of petticoat tyranny. 
 
 " Hist, hist, am't ye ashamed ; going on this way and the master 
 so busy? Well no come ^mind I'm telling ye . . . that is, no just 
 at present," as a terrible finger was held up in menace and warning 
 lower sank his courage under that steady glance. " Well, well, 
 we'll be wid ye directly ; " and then, sotto voce, ''The devil fly away 
 wid ye for a scolding jade." 
 
 Retaining a small grilse as provision for the journey, we sent the 
 rest of our take to Mr. Hepburn, the manager, by a sure hand, and 
 bade adieu to the bright and beautiful Arrow. It was the first, 
 but not the last visit, we trust ; for I hope soon to shake that 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 157 
 
 worthy man by the hand, and thank hini in person for a letter 
 recently received, which does honour alike to the employer and the 
 employed. 
 
 We had a long journey before us, and the sun, though istill in his 
 splendoui', was yet trending low towards the north-west. Nothing 
 could exceed the dreariness and desolation of the country through 
 which we passed. Interminable plains of dark morass stretched on 
 all sides ; here and there a black and sluggish stream stagnated in 
 its slow course to the sea. Not a mountain relieved the tameness 
 of the view ; it was desolation without grandeur. Now and then 
 on the edge of the swamp appeared a cluster of miserable hovels, 
 without chimney, without window ; the walls formed of loose stones 
 rudely piled together, through every chink and cranny of which 
 the smoke stole forth, and the elements held season tickets of 
 admission. 
 
 As the cars rattled along through " a town," a posse of meagre 
 curs would rush out, followed by a troop of half-naked, semi- 
 barbarous urchins vociferating in sharp querulous voices, " Penny 
 give us a penny, your honour a penny, only a penny beautiful lady 
 only a penny, your ladyship's honour." The ardour of the dogs 
 soon went out ; expecting no remuneration for their trouble, the 
 quadrupeds wisely determining to keej) the little flesh they possessed 
 on their bones slackened their pace and were gradually distanced. 
 But there was no beating the boys. Occasionally the coveted coin 
 was pitched dexterously into the bog, in the hope of escaping during 
 the search. As it flew through the air a universal charge was made 
 at the ditch, and the prize marked down. Then a race, a scramble, 
 and a fierce fight succeeded, and again the whole pack, at a killing 
 pace, were once more in full cry " A penny, a penny, good 
 gentleman a penny, a penny, your ladyship's honour." Thus 
 accompanied, we rolled on, the light-limbed urchins easily keeping 
 up with the cars till we reached the next cluster of cabins, where a 
 fresh relay was ready, took up the cry, fought, howled, coaxed, and 
 wheedled till the proximity of the next hamlet drove them from our 
 trail, and gave us for a prey to foes as ruthless as the last, 
 
158 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 On we sped, past Screen and across tlie Easkey. Gradually the 
 sun went down, the crimson light faded to a delicate rose tint, and 
 then all was grey. Here and there over the waste a momentary 
 blaze lit up the solitary pane in some mud hut ; deeper and deeper 
 grew the twilight ; and, ere the lamps of Ballina shone out into the 
 darkness, mistress and maid, master and man, had wended far into 
 the drowsy realms of the Land of Nod. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Ballina The Tideway. 
 
 July 7. 
 Ballina ! What pleasant remembrances will this name summon 
 back, perhaps, to some hard-worked denizen of the metropolis. It 
 may remind him of his short but unforgotten holiday, and, as he 
 sits brain-weary at his desk, may give rise to a train of thought 
 which will cheer him through the day. Reasonable labour is at 
 once man's destiny and his privilege ; but toil, whether of mind or 
 body, should be succeeded by reasonable recreation. What does the 
 unceasing pursuit of wealth lead to, even if the pursuer finds 
 strength to run down his game? What, indeed, but vanity and 
 vexation of spirit ^youth early lost, the power of receiving enjoy- 
 ment from innocent trifles forgotten, temper soured, health impaired, 
 gout, and the doctor's bill ? Yes, these are some of the Mammon 
 worshippers' bad debts to the world, the flesh, and the devil : time 
 and the arch fiend never repay. Too much of a good thing is good 
 for nothing, and even money may be bought too dear. As a boy I 
 thought so; I think so as a man, and now would rather possess 
 innocence and peace, health, and a light heart, than all the wealth 
 of the world, if its winning destroyed the one or crushed down the 
 other. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 169 
 
 The man who cannot be satisfied with his quarters at Ballina 
 must be hard to please. The hotel, within a hundred yards of the 
 water, is large, airy, and comfortable, and is, during the summer 
 at least, well stocked with all that any sportsman need desire. It 
 was not any lack of comfort in the hospitium, therefore, that made 
 me hunt up a lodging before breakfast on the morning after our 
 arrival. 
 
 Willie is certainly a treasure, for in an inconceivably short time 
 the affectionate, natty, indefatigable fellow has thrown a wonderful 
 home aspect over our new quarters. The rods are unpacked and 
 hung round the room, the landing-net leans with a jaunty, careless 
 air in one comer, and from another the gaff peeps slily out, as if 
 ready for mischief. Two wretched little tables in the recesses of 
 the windows are already covered with silks, feathers, and dubbing 
 of every hue ; the wheels ornament the mantel-piece, and on sundry 
 small brass-headed nails, hanamered into the walls with a shameful 
 disregard to the landlady's paper, are hanging casting-lines and 
 pattern-flies. Books and writing materials are disposed in con- 
 venient places. A couple of old shawls convert two trunks into 
 ottomans, and altogether there is such an air of snugness about the 
 place that we resolve, nem. con., to remain for a fortnight or three 
 weeks before plunging into the " far west." 
 
 A good or bad servant is a heavy item in a man's account of 
 comfort, under an}'- circumstances ; but in L-eland, where the wanderer 
 is so frequently thrown on his o^vn resources, such a treasure is 
 invaluable. How different is the domestic of the two countries, even 
 when both are good. The characteristic of one is obedience, of the 
 other affection. The Englishman is civil and attentive, obe3ring his 
 master's orders to the letter, and nothing more ; whilst he receives 
 youi' wages you receive his attendance ; you have bought him, mind 
 and body ; but as to his feelings, these are quite another matter ; 
 they are not in the bond. But use an Irishman well, treat him with 
 kindness and courtesy, and he becomes a friend, a humble one it is 
 true, yet you have his love. His service has the peculiar charm of 
 seeming a pleasure; he identifies himself with his patron, whose 
 
160 A YEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 comfort, interest, or honour it is his wish to promote, and determi- 
 nation to defend ; but he seldom presumes ; your kindness he fully 
 appreciates, but never repays with impertinent familiarity. Call on 
 him night or day, he is ready. There is no moodiness, no cold 
 civility in his duty, but a kindly, cheerful spirit, ready to obey and 
 still more prompt to anticipate your requirements. 
 
 The door opened and the original of the sketch entered. 
 
 " Well, so you are come back from the fishery? " 
 
 " Yes, your honour ; I gave your card and note to Mr. Little, and 
 here's his answer." Opening the envelope I found a printed form, 
 with blanks for name and date, granting peimission for the entire 
 season, and authorising the angler to retain a fish per day. Gene- 
 rosity like this should be displayed at full length. 
 
 " Fishery Office, , Ballina, July 1, 1865. Leave is hereby 
 
 granted by the trustees to W. P., Esq., to angle in the rivers Moy 
 and Bunree, for salmon and trout, from the present date to the end 
 of the season, it being expressly understood that all fry caught will 
 be carefully returned to the river, and that all salmon taken, with 
 the exception of one each day, will be sent to the fishery as soon 
 after being caught as possible. On behalf of the trustees, to the 
 water-keepers and others who protect the above." 
 
 Comparisons will occasionally force themselves into notice ; and it 
 was absolutely impossible not to contrast the liberal policy, which 
 placed the most prolific river in Ireland at the disposal of every 
 sportsman, with the niggard spirit prevalent in our own dear 
 churlish island, where, after strong interest made with some game- 
 preserving squire, a sulky permission is at length obtained for a 
 single day's fishing in his despicable trout stream or weedy pond, 
 where the unhappy suppliant is tolerably certain to catch the 
 rheumatism, though by no means sure of a fin. " Interdictis 
 imminet ager aquis," says some author whose name I have forgotten ; 
 but, pleasant remembrances of the free waters of this hospitable 
 land, preserve me ever from the mental malady of longing after such 
 forbidden streams ! 
 
 The Moy is, in my opinion, the best open water in the three 
 
SALMON ANGLINQ IN IRELAND. 161 
 
 kingdoms, and as a station Ballina seems built expressly for the 
 purpose ; but before speaking of the summer angling we will pause 
 to say only a few words about the river during the earlier months. 
 The best time for the spring fishing is from the middle of March 
 to May 15, as the river is large, and cannot be relied on at the 
 commencement of the season. Pontoon seldom wants a clean 
 salmon on the opening day, for all early comers rest there before 
 plunging into the wide waters of Lough Conn ; but in the river, 
 too, are some admirable casts, and many a heart will thrill at the 
 mention of Mountfalcon, Cooldi-onane, Bannifinglas, and Foxford. 
 
 For the sake of convenience we will speak of the angling in this 
 neighbourhood under three heads the tideway, up the river, and 
 Pontoon. 
 
 Twice in each day the flood flows to the weirs, and for an hour 
 and a half before and after high water little can be done with the 
 rod. Through the town, on either bank of the river, are handsome 
 quays, similar to those on the Liffey above Carlisle bridge ; but here 
 no barque ever floats larger than the cot of my stout friend Terry 
 Divers, who is now awaiting me at the steps. How well I remember, 
 some dozen years ago, that brawny form standing just on this spot, 
 steadying the boat with his pole, even as he does now, waiting for 
 an eager young Englishman, who, unwilling to waste an instant, cast 
 his line down the stream as he stepped on board. Do I forget the 
 strong shove that sent the cot spinning against the current, the 
 dashing rise, the unlucky stroke ? Oh, Terry, Terry, those combined 
 forces moving in the same line were too much for mortal tackle I 
 How well I remember your ill-concealed disgust of the bereaved 
 Saxon, and the suppressed rage with which you selected another 
 pair of flies ? Have you forgotten the next two salmon which I 
 hooked, played, and lost ? Have you ever paid for the Sunday hat 
 you then tore from your head and trampled under foot as if it had 
 been a thing of nought ? Can I forget your taking my rod vi et armis 
 in order to mend our luck, and presently smashing top and second 
 joints in a 101b. salmon above the arch of the bridge yonder? 
 No, no, it all comes back as fresh as yesterday. And do not I 
 
 M 
 
162 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 remember tearing home for another rod, whilst yon packed up the 
 wreck ; and, spite of disasters, afterwards bringing home seven good 
 fish before breakfast ? But enough of the past, for rods are glancing 
 and eager feet are hurrying down to the quay, and the tide has 
 turned an hour ago, so we, too, will get under weigh, pole up to the 
 weirs, and discourse by the way. 
 
 Ballina for many years past has been a great favourite with our 
 countrymen, and during the summer probably there are seldom less 
 than ten or twelve English rods always hard at work on the water. 
 But even with this number the Moy'is far from being crowded, for 
 from the Flats to Foxford the distance is about twelve miles. No 
 narrow and puny stream is this, but a broad and glorious river, so 
 wide and marvellously full of fish that if a dozen rods were occupied 
 in the tideway alone there would be room for all and sport for each. 
 Fortunately, the upper waters are in as great favour as the lower, and 
 my friend, Pat Heames, never wants clients. His dominions, properly 
 speaking, extend from the weirs to Foxford ; he is the above-bridge 
 potentate, and will come into notice more correctly in another 
 chapter. 
 
 All this time Terry is poling steadily up the stream, whilst we are 
 arranging the casting line. Compared with the gorgeous flies so 
 lately used on the Erne, those of the Moy seem only pretty dimi- 
 nutives, and altogether no tackle can be lighter than that employed 
 here. The rods generally used are slight and pliant ; the three yards 
 of single gut, backed by nearly an equal length of fine treble, 
 together with a pair of small flies, give to the angler's outfit more 
 the appearance of trout than salmon tackle ; yet with ordinary skill 
 no accidents need be feared, as the bottom is remarkably clear, and 
 wherever a fish may go, a cot can follow. 
 
 That vigorous stroke has sent us under the bridge into the pool 
 below the cutts, and what a picture is here for the angler's contem- 
 plation. Over the broad weirs and through the gratings comes the 
 foaming rushing river, forming streams and eddies, whilst, near the 
 arches, the water fiows more smoothly and with a shallower current. 
 Twenty yards above this point our anchor was dropped, and the first 
 
SALMON ANGLINQ IN IRELAND. 163 
 
 cast delivered. Our position in mid channel gave us full command 
 of the throw, and now to the right and now to the left flew the line, 
 sweeping round till opposite the stem. Dozens of fish were rising, 
 and probably scores were under the flies ; but, as Terry said, they 
 seemed to have taken " the pledge " against them. Now, the said 
 Mr. Terry was rather choleric and impatient, and in twenty minutes 
 after our arrival proposed to move on. The advantage of racing 
 from place to place is always, in my opinion, very questionable. " If 
 you are sure of being over salmon, stick to them," was the advice 
 given to me in my nonage, and very good advice I have found it. 
 
 Acting on it, the flies were changed, and the compliment at once 
 acknowledged. " He'll come agen, / know," mumbled Mr. "Willie, 
 with the discarded insect between his lips, whilst his busy fingers 
 were engaged in looping on a violet and grouse. " I'll swear he'll 
 come agen." A cast or two on the opposite side moistened " the 
 change," which by this time was curving gracefully in a series of 
 short darts, right over the head of our new acquaintance. " I know'd 
 it, and if he hasn't got it firm and hard, 'tis a pity." If you wish 
 to see what a salmon can do, give him plenty of room and light 
 tackle. In the present case space was ample, and nothing could well 
 be slighter than the thread which held him ; nor was our fast friend 
 at all indisposed to make the best use of his opportunity. Now 
 towards the weir he flies, then dives deep into the eddy, and next 
 rushes back to his home by the bridge. Terry is already shortening 
 the mooring-rope ready to weigh anchor and follow; but it is 
 unnecessary, as the stout fish once more heads up the stream. No 
 laggard is he ; up the torrent across down again deep under 
 water ^high in air, he rushes, dives, and leaps. Can he find no 
 friend to aid him amongst all his summer-day acquaintance ? Must 
 he forego his proposed tour, and no more revisit the haunts of his 
 infancy ? Will he never again see his meek-eyed helpmate, who is, 
 perhaps, even now waiting for her spouse in order to spend the 
 honeymoon at their country lodge ? I fear not, for who can contend 
 successfully against destiny ? Certainly not the graceful creature 
 whose strength, lately so exuberant, has now deserted him, and whose 
 
 M 2 
 
164 A YEAR OP liberty; OB, 
 
 fasMonable friends have shunned him in his difficulties. Helpless as 
 a log, slowly he yields to the steady strain of the line. Nearer, nearer, 
 nearer he conies. Silently and softly the gaff sinks under water, 
 ready for the moment when the victim shall pass over the ambushed 
 steel one single inch more hdbet. 
 
 " He's a tidy little salmon, for the Moy, eh, Terry ? Not far off 
 111b." Whilst thus giving vent to his opinion, and expressing his 
 satisfaction, my companion grasps " the tidy little one " firmly above 
 the tail with his left hand, and prepares to administer a playful tap 
 over the occiput. 
 
 " I wish I'd half a dozen of your brothers and sisters here ; I'd 
 serve *um just so there." A slight quiver passes over the silvery 
 mass, as it is laid under an oiled coat to keep off the sun. And so 
 this is death ! but where is the subtle essence the divine afflatus 
 called life ? Whither has it flown ? We had better leave that 
 question to wiser heads, and go on with our work. 
 
 Terry was now less anxious to move than before nay, was positively 
 imwilling to stir, when, a few minutes later, a grilse was hooked and 
 lost ; so we again changed the flies, and in about half an hour 
 afterwards killed a pretty summer fish of 51b. 
 
 Slowly dropping down between the bridges, the pole occasionally 
 checking our speed, we cast on either side as we proceeded ; but 
 finding the water too shallow, only fished it very lightly, thinking of 
 old times, when this beautiful stretch was crime de la creme ; and 
 thus we glided on till within a hundred yards of the "tanyard." 
 
 *' That's what we call a line of battle," remarked Terry, indicating 
 the direction with the handle of his propeller, and, to judge from 
 appearances, the conflict was raging with great spirit. Moored in 
 line, at intervals of about five-and-twenty yards, were four boats, the 
 occupants of ihe second and last being each pleasantly engaged in a 
 death grapple with a salmon. Wisely determining to join our 
 countrymen against the common foe, we cast anchor at the correct 
 distance above the headmost cot, but ere the stone was on the 
 bottom our next neighbour also boarded a prize. No river, except 
 the Moy, could show a scene like this, five punts close together, and 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 165 
 
 three of these " in quasi possession " at the same moment there 
 goes our line, and lo I at the first cast a grilse is hooked. Whilst 
 attending to my own affairs I yet found time to steal a glance at my 
 brethren, who were all masters of the craft careful men of business 
 who felt time to be capital, and so well did they employ the oppor- 
 tunity that in twenty minutes the last prize was secured. In the 
 " Castle hole" we landed a fourth, and rushing through " the Dock," 
 which it was not thought advisable to try, were soon floating over 
 " the Flats." In this portion of the Moy the proximity to the sea is 
 very apparent, large mud banks unmistakably showing a tidal estuary 
 at three quarters ebb. This part of "the ground" often affords 
 admirable sport, but to-day it did not answer, and left us at leisure 
 to look at the world around. From this part of the tideway rise 
 wooded heights of no great elevation, but considerable beauty. 
 Immediately below, a schooner and brig were dozing on the mud, 
 high and dry ; and still farther down the widening river stretched 
 away towards Killala, and threading its path through long sand-banks 
 ^whereon lay many a seal mingled its waters with the Atlantic. 
 
 The Moy runs through a flat, uninteresting country ; but, with 
 every disposition to praise, it is impossible to say much for the 
 meadows which fringe its banks. They cannot be compared for a 
 moment with the enamelled meads which border the Thames or the 
 Somersetshire Avon, yet are they not flowerless, but can show their 
 Caltha, Menyanthes trifoliata, and Nuphar lutea, with the best ; and 
 as for " the lady's smock," so white were the fields that you might 
 have imagined all the feminine linen of the county here spread out 
 to bleach. 
 
 On our way home from " the Flats," at the back of the dock, we 
 put on a cast of trout flies, and were so fortunate as to rise two 
 good white trout, one of which we landed, weighing 31b. The 
 Bunree, a small tributary bearing a high character during the 
 autumn spates, falls into the estuary at this point. Desirous of 
 seeing it, I strolled for some distance along its stony channel, and 
 could easily believe that, with three feet of amber- coloured water 
 filling its bed, and leaping over many a ledge of rock, the little 
 
166 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 river would deserve all tlie praise bestowed on it. Bunree never 
 was in condition during any of my visits, so from personal experience 
 I am unable to offer any opinion concerning its merits, though I 
 believe that, if taken in time and tune, it would " discourse most 
 excellent music." 
 
 After this we took one more out of the " Castle pool," and with 
 this ended our sport for the day ; no great matter to speak of in the 
 first week of July in such a stream as the Moy, but enough to show 
 that even an exceptional season like the present can afford occupa- 
 tion for the rod. 
 
 To chronicle minutely the events of the five following days would 
 be an ungrateful task. The one recorded was neither the best nor 
 the worst of the series ; but feeding the mental appetite is a nice 
 operation. Give too little, and it becomes cross ; give too much and 
 it falls sick. Oh, believe me, the task is delicate, and requires tact. 
 Fortunately, in this class of dietetics we have one golden rule for 
 our guidance : never continue the employment of any one kind of 
 pabulum usque ad nauseam. In pursuance, therefore, of this maxim, 
 we will conclude with a description of our doings on this river one 
 July day, when the water was, as it always should he, in first-rate 
 order. 
 
 Once upon a time, after spending a month on the Erne, I arrived 
 here in the middle of such rain as is seldom seen in July. Meadows 
 were flooded, fords impassable, bridges damaged, and the Moy in 
 such a state as had not been seen in summer for many years. My 
 diary shall tell the rest. 
 
 "Will the water never be in order! "Without doubt there are 
 many things more agreeable than sauntering up and down a wretched 
 country town for a whole week. I have learned by rote the title- 
 page of every volume in the window of the circulating library, and 
 could cry, over the High-street, the address of every uncalled for 
 letter at the oflSce. I can tell the exact uumber of buns the baker 
 speculates in daily. I have counted as many as ninety-one beggars, 
 ere stepping from mere weariness, and shall remember to my dying 
 day the exact pattern of the red shawl in which the Belles of Ballina 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 167 
 
 deliglit. I have paid fifty-four visits to the river, to measure the 
 abatement of its waters ; can minutely describe every shade it 
 assumed during that time, from Indian ink to half and half ; and 
 have nearly worried Terry to death with interrogations concerning 
 the hour on which we shall be able to commence operations. There 
 was some consolation in this, as Mr. Divers had the villany to charge 
 thirty shillings per week for himself and an execrable leaky cot, 
 which he averred to be *the most illigant boat in the county.* 
 
 "Willie, in his department, has not been idle whispered con- 
 sultations between him and Terry have been going on every day, and 
 various councils have been held to decide on the merits of a shade or 
 the attractions of a feather. K success is to be commensurate with 
 wisdom in debate and skill in execution, ours will be marvellous." 
 
 Here I must pause ; only, however to finish the tale in the 
 following chapter. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Baliina The Scribe doth a Tale unfold Up the River, with manifold Remi- 
 niscences of " Down the Water," illustrative of what may be done on the 
 Moy under favourable Circumstances Hypothesis. 
 
 July 11. 
 At half-past three a.m. on Monday, the 9th of July, a.d. one I 
 like to be particular in such matters ^my companion and myself 
 sallied forth into the High street of Baliina. Rods were glancing in 
 all directions, hurrying towards the scene of action ; nobs and snobs, 
 noblemen and gentlemen, tinkers and tailors, soldiers and sailors, 
 were on the alert. Every order in " the capital of the west" 
 appeared to have sent a representative. The justice and the priest, 
 the doctor and the lawyer, hurried along the grand route. It was a 
 high day a general holiday and business, if the good town ever 
 had any, which I never could discover for once was left to take 
 care of itself. A hundred yards brought us to the river ; boats were 
 
168 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 on the move, proceeding to favourite points ; but we looked in vain 
 for our man, Tom Nameless. " Where on earth can that fellow be ?" 
 The point at which we struck the stream was the upper bridge, 
 where, moored about five-and-twenty yards above the arches, was a 
 
 well-known Saxon professor, Mr. G , who, as we came up, struck 
 
 at a fish, whose keenness said plainly, " Wait an instant, and I'll be 
 at you again," and so it proved, for the next time the flies curved 
 over him Mr. Salmon showed himself a man of his word. If we 
 were early, our friend was still more matutinal ; at any rate this 
 could only be number one, but that was bad enough ; for in the 
 year one, a man killing a fish in my sight became an enemy for life. 
 Judge, therefore, of the state of my feelings when, looking over the 
 parapet, four silvery creatures, laying side by side, were visible in 
 that cot. Had I seen Mr. Tom about to be hanged by mistake, I 
 think I should not have stepped forward to save him. All down the 
 river rods were bending double. 
 
 " Oh, Tom, you incomprehensible scoundrel, what has become of 
 you ?" 
 
 " Don't you know master, that it's Monday ?" 
 
 To a well-conditioned man the second morning of the week should 
 offer no greater inducement for breach of faith than the third ; but, 
 Tom was a teetotaller, and between mass and midnight were many 
 long hours, which that gentleman employed in sipping an abomina- 
 tion called " cordial." From the name, it should have been a mild 
 and wholesome fluid, composed, perhaps, of water, sugar, ginger, 
 saffron, and the like ; but then it sadly disagreed with Tom's getting 
 up, nor did it improve his health or personal appearance, for when 
 at last he did arrive, an hour or so behind time, it was with white 
 cheek, blue nose, and steps anything but straight and regular. The 
 forty minutes spent on that bridge seemed like an age, and each 
 fresh fish captured was a new wrong received from the hands of Mr. 
 Nameless. In a mood by no means amiable I commenced casting 
 from the quay, and in the hour and a quarter which elapsed before 
 the tide drove us home, Willie gaffed for his master seven as fine 
 fish as need be. Somewhat mollified by good fortune, it was with 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN lEELAND. 1G9 
 
 comparative equanimity that I noticed Mr. Tom, his face con- 
 siderably more white and his nose considerably more blue than on 
 ordinary Monday mornings, skulking behind a comer. " Go into 
 your cot you ^you ^teetotaller, and if you step out of here till I 
 return the rest was too majestic for repetition. On such a day, 
 
 Man wants but little here below ; 
 
 SO, bolting a cup of tea and pocketing a crust, we were soon once 
 more on the quay, and found Tom at his post, fast asleep. I have 
 always considered my " cordial " friend designedly put himself into 
 this condition, as being the only one likely to secure his not straying 
 off in search of " a drop." 
 
 Between the upper and lower bridges a distance considerably 
 short of a quarter of a mile six boats besides our own were already 
 anchored in line of battle, waiting for the moment when the ebb 
 should enable them to proceed to business. The tide having fallen 
 sufficiently to allow our commencing operations, we took up a posi- 
 tion near the upper viaduct the only unoccupied spot and cast 
 one look at the flies, which in another moment were dancing over 
 the dark surface of the Moy. 
 
 *' Mick's stuck in him," groaned Tom; "hes sure to have his 
 share, and something over." Battle, rattle, went the wheel ; anxious 
 to receive a lesson from so famous an artiste, I paused to watch the 
 result. Upright as a statue, and nearly as motionless, with the rod 
 well over his shoulder, stood the man who had sacrificed industry 
 and competence for poverty and pleasure. With steady hand, un- 
 flinching eye, and consummate skill, he foiled the wild rage of his 
 struggling victim baffled him at every turn and in less than ten 
 minutes, spite Tom's maledictions and malicious wishes, gaffed and 
 lifted into his crazy cot a beautiful and silvery six-pounder. Notwith- 
 standing his rags, how I envied the fellow I Stealing a look at the 
 boats below, an equally mortifying spectacle was to be seen, two of 
 their occupants being engaged in the agreeable task of reducing a 
 pair of refractory subjects to passive obedience. 'Twas too bad. 
 Willie laid aside his pipe, and observed in a stage whisper, that 
 
170 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 " the master's hand was out." Oh, that tattered disciple of Izaak ; 
 positively he has another, whilst we have not turned a tail. And 
 now a jubilant shout rose from every boat, each of the six having 
 nearly at the same time hooked a fish. That yell startled even the 
 poor artiste, who in an unguarded moment turned to see what could 
 be the matter. A rattling leap warned him of the error, when 
 too late, for the salmon had departed without leave, carrying off his 
 best fly. 
 
 Man is an inquisitive animal, never satisfied without knowing the 
 why and because. What was the reason of our failure ? Could it 
 be the tackle ? Surely no ! Was it the incapacity of the angler ? 
 Vanity forbade the thought. I once read of an ill-fated being with 
 whom nothing prospered energy, zeal, honesty, were unavailing, 
 for unlucky Joe was bom on a Friday. Was that, too, my natal day ? 
 In terror I fumbled for my pocket-book, wherein the event was duly 
 chronicled. No, thanks to time, I am not thus doomed to perpetual 
 misfortune, though I have escaped by a miracle, for I was ushered 
 into the world at half -past eleven on Thursday night. 
 
 Tom now did what he should have done long before, and lifting 
 the stone, we dropped down the stream. The truth was, our position 
 had been badly selected, for the shade of the bridge cast a deeper 
 hue on water already sufficiently dark, and satisfactorily accounted 
 for our previous want of success. The beneficial effects of the move 
 were at once apparent ; as we drifted within a long cast of the poor 
 disciple, a sporting fish dashed at my fly, and overboard went the 
 anchor. The tackle was good and time precious, so giving the butt, 
 but not sparing an inch of line, I kept a tight rein on him, and in a 
 few minutes got him into the boat. Our neighbour, whom Tom 
 affirmed to be a tinker, was now on his mettle ; the flies fell within 
 a foot of each other, though with very different results, for his had 
 been again and again over the water, and mine were novelties. A 
 merry dash at the dropper and a deep dull roll at the trail occurred 
 simultaneously ; for a brief space both were on the line. Alas I it 
 was only too brief, and then, as usual in such cases, the lightest 
 hooked broke away, leaving us at leisure to manage the other. This 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 171 
 
 looked like business, but "the tinker" was not to be outdone; 
 reeling up, lie lit his pipe, pulled a few dirty bits of paper from the 
 lining of his hat, and at once commenced the construction of a more 
 novel and attractive article. 
 
 This was a golden opportunity, nor was it thrown away, for before 
 his task was completed we had secured an additional brace of fish. 
 Unwilling to tarnish our laurels, we once more lifted our anchor, 
 removed from a neighbourhood so dangerous to our reputation, and 
 drifted down towards the tanyard. The rain, which had so long 
 threatened, now came down in a way creditable even to clouds fresh 
 from a trip across the Atlantic, and the big drops pattered so thickly 
 that Tom found occupation in bailing the boat with his shoe. 
 
 Our oiled coats were, however, garments of proof. " Work away, 
 your honour, we've an hour yet afore the tide comes." Had the 
 torrent been descending in bucketfuls, instead of drops, we should 
 not have flinched success and rivalry had so completely warmed us 
 that all the rain which ever fell could not have cooled our ardour. 
 Too soon passed the time, and when the flood warned us to desist^ 
 we gained the landing-place with eight salmon and two white trout, 
 each about l^lb. 
 
 Fifteen fish and a brace of trout did not constitute a bad day's 
 sport, yet we grumbled outrageously at an incident that befel us 
 about midday, causing us to waste an hour and a half of invaluable 
 time. The misfortune came on us in this wise : A few yards below 
 the last bridge, I hooked something evidently far beyond the average 
 size. Sailing away majestically, "the individual" quietly sat himself 
 down on the bottom, as if meditating a prolonged interview. Urbane 
 by nature, I treated him with the courtesies usual on such occasions, 
 and kept up a continuous steady strain ; but I might just as well 
 have pulled at our mooring stone. There is, however, a limit to 
 politeness, and, exasperated at this dogged and unreasonable beha- 
 viour, Tom was directed to pay out rope and stir him up with the 
 pole. Such a forcible argument could not be resisted, so our friend 
 got up and moved off leisurely, only to sit down again almost imme- 
 diately a few yards farther off. If the " individual " was, through 
 
172 A YEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 Ms own misconduct, subjected to this ungentlemanly treatment once, 
 he experienced it twenty times ; there was no putting him into a 
 passion ; his impassibility was wonderful. If he could not be roused, 
 I was growing desperate, for on all sides boats were taking fish, 
 whilst we had one that would not be taken. Poling nearly over him, 
 I pulled, and pulled, and pulled. Surely mere mortal matter must 
 weary in time. Ay, but in what length of time ? in an hour ? in a 
 day ? in a week ? Certainly not in an hour, for I had laboured for 
 more than that space to make that impression, and had utterly failed 
 in moving him. 
 
 "He's a raal sulky villin," observed Willie, whose habitual 
 patience was fast giving way ; "may I try, master ?" 
 
 Too happy to be quit of the business, I handed him the rod. 
 "Pole ahead, Tom." Mr. Nameless did so; and after five or six 
 minutes spent in doing all that man could do, came another order : 
 " Shove astern." This failed likewise. The obstinate party had 
 been tried behind and before, on the right and on the left. " He 
 an't mortal ! If he don't move this time, I'd better break, hadn't I ? " 
 A nod gave consent. Slowly, steadily, gradually, the strain was 
 increased, but nothing came of it ; and with a sigh of relief I "saw 
 the tight line at length spring upwards, and we were free. From 
 the numbers killed around us during what may be termed our 
 captivity, I doubt not that but for this accident, we should have 
 added five or six grilse to our score ; and had it not been for this 
 untoward event, the day would probably have proved one of the best 
 that ever fell to my lot. 
 
 By my side lies an old local newspaper, which speaks of the 
 period which I have endeavoured to sketch. Perhaps the reader 
 might like to see it ; if so I will give him a verbatim et literatim 
 copy: 
 
 Angling on the Mot. The piscatory amusement on our river during the 
 present delightful season amply repays the sportsman's toil. Our town since 
 the angling opened has been thronged with sporting gentlemen from England 
 and Scotland, and we rejoice that none of them will leave dissatisfied with 
 their stay. On the whole, it is pleasing to record that the Moy has come 
 round to its usual status as a sporting stream. . . . We have made,inquiries 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 178 
 
 relative to the number of salmon killed within the present season on tho Moy, 
 and were gratified to learn the following results : Mr. John Gordon killed 54 
 fish in ten consecutive days. The highest weekly aggregate we have ever 
 known before this year in Ballina was by Sir Humphrey Davy ; when angling 
 here in 1823 he killed 45 salmon. In 1843 Sir Richard Sutton killed 100 fish 
 on this river within a month, Mr. Coke 40 in one week, Mr. Musgrave 165 in 
 six weeks, and Captain Congrave 22 in one day. J'his is decidedly the best 
 year that came since, for Mr. George Pollock took 27 in three days, Mr. Forde 
 15 in one day, Dr. Peard 15, and Mr. Staunton 11. 
 
 As a rider to the above extract, it may not be out of place to 
 remark that I had only arrived a day or two before the paper was 
 published, or perhaps it might have been deemed worthy of record 
 that in twenty-one consecutive days I landed ninety-seven salmon, 
 and about half a score of white trout. 
 
 In the former chapter it has been shown what might be done on 
 the Moy in a bad season ; in the present, what could be achieved in 
 a good one ; and if the angler strikes a balance between these extremes 
 he will have a fair idea of what may be expected during an average 
 June and July. 
 
 It was my intention when I set out this morning to have commenced 
 a week " up the river " under the skilful guidance of my friend Pat 
 Heames it was, upon my honour, and if you look at the head of 
 this chapter, you vnll observe that I made a note to that effect ; 
 but, instead of going up, I have been all the time going down. 
 "Now, my dear sir," you will say, "this infirmity of purpose, 
 almost amounting to temporary aberration of intellect, is very 
 reprehensible, and must not occur again ; it is deserving of censure, 
 and you must consider yourself reprimanded." " Confiteor, domine, 
 excellentissime." Yet, pray believe me, there was method in the 
 madness. 
 
 On the way back I paid a visit to Mr. Little, in his oflSce by the 
 weirs, and whiled away a very pleasant hour in his company. With 
 him was a gentleman an admirable converser who amongst other 
 matters took a view of the Fishery Act altogether new to me, and 
 certainly much opposed to my own opinions. In his judgment rivers 
 stocked like the Moy received positive injury from the extended 
 
1 74 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 fence time. He observed, " The direct loss to the lessees was 
 considerable, from the numbers which escaped during the rim of the 
 grilse, and that this loss was by no means compensated by the 
 increased stock presumed to result from the increased number of 
 mother fish." As nearly as I remember, the following was his line 
 of argument. Assuming the Moy to have as large a head of 
 breeding fish as the spawning grounds could accommodate, he con- 
 ceived that every additional salmon which the present law allows 
 to pass the weirs, instead of adding to the amount of fry, actually 
 diminished it. 
 
 " Suppose," said he, " a spawning bed capable of accommodating 
 twenty pairs of working fish, the trenches made, the ova laid down, 
 and the gravel replaced. Now, if others arrive subsequently and 
 commence their labours, the previously deposited ova is rooted up 
 and lost, and the gravel rendered so loose as to be unfit to secure that 
 which was last buried. Thus the first deposit is lost, and the second 
 rendered so insecure as to be carried away almost to a certainty by 
 the winter floods ; ergo, a surplus stock produces less smolts than a 
 smaller one." 
 
 This, to say the least, is plausible ; but then it rests on the 
 hypothesis of an over stock. Grant this, and the position is 
 unanswerable ; but oppose it, and how stands the argument ? 
 
 Few, I presume, will deny that seventy or eighty years ago the 
 supply in our rivers was far greater than at present. The means of 
 taking them were at that time inferior to those now employed, and 
 the inducement to capture them was not a fourth of what it is in our 
 day ; consequently, with a more prolific stock, and inferior methods 
 of stopping them, larger numbers must have made their way to the 
 head waters than can possibly do so now. This increased amount of 
 mother fish hatched a greater number of fry than are found at 
 present, as may be assumed from the larger number of adults then 
 secured ; yet they were reared from the same beds, which are 
 declared unequal to the support of decreased numbers. But even 
 granting our friend's view to be correct as regards one river, the 
 number of streams with a surplus population is at this time very, 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 175 
 
 very small, and years must elapse before the great body of the Irish 
 waters will be able to complain of this evil. Till then our glorious 
 Act must produce general benefit ; nor may we raise our voice 
 against it, even should a particular locality suffer. When the 
 halcyon days of a universal plethora have arrived, our Act will die, 
 full of glory ; yet will it live for ever in history as a monument of 
 the wisdom of those who framed it. 
 
 I shall be afraid to face Pat Heames to-morrow. What will he 
 say to my breach of faith ? 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 " Up the River" Pontoon Unexpected arrival of the Colonel He discourses 
 in the small hours A week on Lough Conn Departure for Galway. 
 
 Saturday, July 22. 
 On a lovely morning in the latter part of July we walked up Mill- 
 street and knocked at the palace gate of his Majesty Pat Heames 
 the First. Crowned by acclamation monarch of the Upper water. 
 King Pat may be considered solely in the light of a naval power. 
 His fleet, however, boasts no ironclads ; no 12-ton guns threaten 
 to hurl misery and ruin on his rivals ; yet are his ships admirably 
 fitted for the warfare they have to wage. An old-world potentate 
 is he, who ignores steam, and, like the uncrowned despots of Tyre 
 and Carthage, puts his trust in the oar. Honest Pat Heames I light 
 hearts and bright spirits man your flotilla, whilst 
 
 Youth at the prow and pleasure at the helm 
 
 form a crew meet for the summer voyages your barques make. This 
 is for old acquaintance, Pat, and long may you reign and prosper ! 
 
 From the Weirs to Foxford a distance of about ten miles the 
 Moy pursues a devious course ; fringed with many a bush, and now 
 and then adorned by a noble tree, the river is, nevertheless, for 
 
176 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 angling purposes, unimpeded with wood. Nearly through its whole 
 course the banks are low and the water generally level with the 
 meadows, which are advantages difficult to overrate, for if there 
 be anything like an air the stream is sure to receive its due pro- 
 portion. Long before the passing of the late Act, the upper 
 ** ground" was held in high estimation, but since that time it need 
 hardly be said it has improved wonderfully. Taken as a whole, the 
 Moy is deeper above than below the town, and in a dry season would 
 now probaply offer the best sport. 
 
 Having knocked at the palace gates, Pat himself answered the 
 summons, led the way to our cot, and in a few minutes conducted 
 us to the "upper falls and rapids." A light northerly air faintly 
 curled the stream, and gave promise of good things. Our stock of 
 flies, never extensive though always new, at this time consisted, 
 only of a pair on the rod, so our artiste seated himself on the 
 bottom boards, with numberless envelopes secured under his legs 
 and between his knees, and commenced with great zeal to add to 
 our resources. This plan of fabricating by the river has many 
 advantages, one of the principal being the correct adaptation of 
 size to the height of the water. The industrious workman merely 
 looked up from his task for an instant, as a sharp rise at the 
 dropper caught his practised ear ; placed a little extra wax on the 
 silk with which he was fastening off the shoulder, and then went 
 calmly on with his business. Once more he lifted his eyes, when a 
 second refusal, accompanied by a scornful lash of a greenish tail, 
 attracted his attention ; this time the horns were being carefully 
 adjusted. 
 
 ''Wait a minute, my beauty, and I'll be about you. There, 
 master, if that won't suit him he must be uncommon perticler." It 
 was one of the jointed flies, so difficult to tie neatly, but so effective 
 in low and bright water, consisting of five rings of shining floss, 
 each in strong contrast to the other, with a turn or two of ostrich 
 between, of the same hue as the next joint above. A jay shoulder, 
 mixed wing, glittering tail, and long crimson antennae completed 
 an insect such as no fish, flesh or fowl ever saw in rerum naturd. 
 
SALMON ANQLINO IN lEELAND. 177 
 
 Removing the rejected pair, we substituted the latest specimen of 
 my companion's handiwork, and without further preliminaries sent 
 it flying across the stream. Hitherto the fish had been hard to 
 please, but this time he was less fastidious, and rushed at it like a 
 hungry dragon. Such a rise is the culminating point of human 
 felicity. 
 
 " He's a dead one, I know, Pat," mumbled Mr. Willie, whose lips, 
 at that moment holding a topping and piece of tinsel, were not well 
 adapted for oratorical display. " He's safe any way, and see if I 
 don't roast him. Won't we, master?" Now this form of speech 
 was common with my old friend first an assertion, and next an 
 interrogation ; but, as he usually had his own way, the latter was 
 understood to be a mere matter of form. Now our salmon, whose 
 ultimate destiny had been so satisfactorily settled, though pronounced 
 moribund was remarkably lively, and, after executing five or six 
 summersaults in the neatest fashion, took a desparate race, tore the 
 hook from his jaw, and went on his way rejoicing. The Island, 
 Cruckane, and the Eock were unprofitable speculations ; and then 
 came Mullins's Pool. Here the hopes of the would-be cook revived ; 
 and when a choice between an eight-pounder, a five, and a four was 
 presented to him, the chef's satisfaction knew no bounds. Lynche's 
 Pool gave us another, the Stonewall Cast a fifth, and there seemed 
 every prospect of making a good bag ; but soon the wind died away 
 and the sun came out with such scorching brilliancy as blistered 
 both face and hands that is, my countenance and upper extremities, 
 those of my comrades being fireproof. 
 
 How grateful was the shade afforded by a small aspen tree, whose 
 broad leaves throbbed and fluttered, though to my heated skin not 
 an air was appreciable. It reminded one of the academic groves we 
 used to read of at school, only there seemed more reality about it. 
 To a lover of nature Mayo is a wild and beautiful county, whose 
 rivers are manifold, whose mountains are lovely and sublime, 
 wrapped in their mantles of purple heath and crowned with 
 diadems of granite, and whose lakes, so capable of utilisation, now 
 only bear on their broad bosoms the peasant's barge or the fisher's 
 
 N 
 
178 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 boat. If these are all charming, what shall be said for its coast 
 line, from the mouth of the Moy to the head of Killery Harbour, 
 stretching to a length exclusive of the minor indentations of the 
 shore of 250 statute miles ? Let any tourist consult his. travelling 
 map, as I did mine, under the tree, and exult in what it shows him. 
 If he be a sportsman, what wealth does it not promise ? If he be a 
 sailor, what safe harbours, noble headlands, and peaceful bays does it 
 not indicate ? If a poet, what themes may it not suggest ? If a 
 painter, what treasures for his easel ? Beautiful Mayo I to me there 
 is something musical in the sound of your name. Sweet are the 
 memories of the bright summers and rainy autumns I have spent 
 on your mountains, lakes, and streams, and delicious are the 
 anticipations of that time when I shall visit you again. 
 
 All this while my companions had been collecting dry sticks, stones, 
 and dead grass, and having cooked a fish sufficiently large for the 
 wants of six men, graciously brought me a slice, and forthwith 
 devoured the residue. 
 
 The receiver of stolen goods is worse than the thief, says the 
 proverb, and in Mayo we have a fine example of the truth of the 
 axiom. The generosity of our early Norman kings was on a grand 
 scale, especially when they gave away the property of other people ; 
 and in their dealings with this county they were more splendidly 
 lavish than usual, for it formed part of the grant made by Henry II. 
 to William de Burgho, about the year 1180. The history of the 
 transaction is curious. The new possessor soon made a permanent 
 settlement, for, in the twenty-fourth year of the reign of Henry III., 
 the then king of Connaught made a journey to England to complain 
 of the invasion of his teri'itory by the family of the Burkes. Very 
 little is known of the subsequent proceedings of the settlers, until the 
 period of the great rebellion in 1333, when the William de Burgho 
 of that day was assassinated. Mayo fell away from all subjection to 
 the English law immediately after the murder of the earl, for some 
 of the younger branches of the Burke family, seeing that the entire 
 province of Connaught would be inherited by his infant daughter 
 (who afterwards married Lionel Duke of Clarence, and so gave the 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 179 
 
 Crown its title to the inheritance in the person of Henry VII.), seized 
 on Gal way and Mayo, and, to avoid the consequences of their 
 usurpation, not only cast off all allegiance to the English rule, but 
 renounced their English names and habits, identifying themselves 
 and their followers with the natives. The appellation chosen by 
 Edmund de Burgho, who seized on Mayo, was Mac William Oughter, 
 or ' the further," to distinguish his family from Mac William Eighter, 
 or " the hither," who had in like manner usui-ped Gal way. From 
 this time till the reign of Elizabeth the Mac William of the time 
 continued to exercise the authority of an independent potentate. 
 The first step towards a return to old law and manners was in 1575, 
 when the then Mac William, accompanied by the O'Malley, came to 
 Gal way and made submission, consenting to pay 250 marks per annum 
 for his fief. 
 
 The antiquities of the county are chiefly ecclesiastical. There 
 are roimd towers at Killala, Turlogh, and Meelick. At Cong are 
 the remains of a splendid abbey, where an archiepiscopal crozier of 
 surpassing beauty was found. This work of art was executed by 
 the command of Turlogh O'Connor, the father of Roderick, the last 
 native king of Ireland, and is now in the possession of the Royal Irish 
 Society. At Mo}Tie and Rosserk are ruins of great interest, and 
 the remains of Ballin-tubber Abbey, seven miles from Ballinrobe, 
 are amongst the most elegant specimens of early architecture in the 
 island. 
 
 What a day this has been ! From eleven to six not a cloud in the 
 sky nor an air on the earth. The rushes, wading knee-deep in the 
 stream, have kept up a sweet jangling with the passing current, as if 
 sending love and good wishes to their sister weeds far off in the 
 ocean. Thrush and blackbird agi-eed it was too laborious to sing in 
 that noontide heat, and reserved themselves for the evening concert. 
 Cattle laid panting in the shade, and there carried on a defensive 
 warfare against their winged persecutors ; only the swallows and my 
 companions' lips were in full activity. Under our tree, in the long 
 rich grass, I read, wrote, smoked, and meditated ; now and then poled 
 into the river, hurriedly went over the cast, and, retmning faster than 
 
 N 2 
 
180 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 I went, flung myself once more on the cool sward. Pat discoursed 
 at length concerning the varied charms of Lough CuUen and Lough 
 Conn, of their trout, sahnon, pike, and perch, which last he said 
 attained a large size, as in fact they do in all the more extensive 
 Irish waters. 
 
 The alders on the western bank were beginning to cast lengthening 
 shadows on the stream, and if anything was to be done, now was 
 the time. Slowly, under Pat's most skilful guidance, we drifted 
 over the pools we had fished in the early part of the day. For an 
 hour we did not move a fin. Gradually the shadows grew longer 
 and the air more cool. At The Island we secured our sixth grilse, 
 and at the Upper Eapids two more were brought to bag, and so 
 ended our first expedition "up the river." 
 
 Stretched on the sofa, as perfectly at home as if he had been there 
 for a month, was my old friend the Colonel, who, possessing a 
 tenacious memory, had not forgotten my refusal to spend a couple 
 of days with him on Lough Melvin and Lough Erne. Being a good 
 geographer he had a pretty correct idea of the merits and locality of 
 Conn, on which he made up his mind to take an ample revenge for 
 my previous delinquency. At present he was more disposed to be 
 inquisitive than communicative, particularly on the subject of dinner. 
 By the time I had set his mind at rest on this important subject our 
 repast was announced. A crimped salmon and a few small fry 
 caught during the morning at once enlisted his sympathies. 
 
 " That fish, so firm, dry, and curdy I'll trouble you for another 
 slice, and one or two of those pinkeens all Billingsgate could not 
 match it. I say, "Walter, how different from the flabby, unctuous 
 article we get at the clubs for two shillings the pound, in the fond 
 misconception of enjoying a luxury ? Glass of sherry, my dear ? 
 Another with you, my boy. Well, dinner is a pleasant invention. 
 Kid did you say kid ?" and then, after a reflective pause, " This 
 animal must have fed on nectar and ambrosia." 
 
 With the first glass after dinner the old soldier came out in force, 
 rung for Willie, ordered a car at eight on the following morning, 
 stretched out his legs, and made himself up for the evening. Merrily 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 18l 
 
 it wore away, and somewhere near the small hours I either heard or 
 dreamed the following anecdote of " sporting extraordinary :" 
 
 ** Yesterday morning I sauntered from my quarters to the Bally- 
 shannon bridge, there to wait for the mail. Captain Joyce, a 
 remarkably heavy swell a new arrival since you left was at work 
 there, and, like other idlei-s, I halted to look on. At the tail of one 
 of the streams was an ancient Triton, uncommonly wide awake. 
 From time to time he rose to the surface, showed his monstrous 
 bulk, and then deliberately settled himself down in his former position. 
 These proceedings touched the Captain to the quick; fly after fly 
 had been put over him without any good results, and when I 
 arrived he had just selected a tried favourite from his hat, and was 
 in the act of making a final appeal to the astute old party. Amongst 
 other observers of these proceedings was the favourite Newfoundland 
 of the Justice, the terror of all petty larceny rogues, boys, cats, and 
 beggars. The animal had turned out for his usual morning prome- 
 nade, and was now reposing after his fatigue in the middle of the 
 road, sitting on his tail in a dignified attitude, sagaciously observing 
 all that was going on. A long cast was necessary. The heavy line 
 swept through the air, bagged, drooped, and stuck fast. The awful 
 yell that followed filled the Captain with dismay. Horror-struck at 
 such an untoward event (he was firmly persuaded he had hooked an 
 unfortunate tourist sketching on the parapet) the commander spun 
 round with a speed creditable even to a dancing dervish. ' Blood an 
 ounds!' screeched the mob in an ecstasy of delight, 'hark, hark to 
 the wheel !' It was indeed running at a fearful rate, for the dog 
 was hooked fast, and darting home at full speed. ' Stop him, stop 
 the horrid brute,' roared the perplexed angler, who might as well 
 have attempted a sotto voce conversation in a hurricane. Round the 
 comer rushed the affrighted Newfoundlander ; the heavy dragoon's 
 200yds. were nearly out ; but luck is everything. ' Hurroo, more 
 power to him ; here he comes again, hurroo, hurroo.' The crowd, 
 one and all, appeared seized simultaneously with a mania for 
 practising the skipping-rope ; now over, now here, now there, to 
 avoid the slack line, which was sweeping the dust in a way that 
 
182 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 would have done Macadam good to have witnessed. Fortunately 
 for the peace of the town the animal was at length captured, found 
 to be more frightened than hurt for the hook was merely entangled 
 in his curly hide and sent home to tell his own story to his master. 
 The Justice was irate beyond measure. Instead of flying into an 
 ordinary everyday Christian sort of passion, his heat was absolutely 
 tropical ; his dignity had been outraged ; the bench had been in- 
 sulted in his person. He stamped like a gentleman qualifying for 
 Bedlam, and swore as many round oaths as would, if properly 
 accounted for, have considerably enriched her Majesty's treasury. 
 The first paroxysm over, he talked about idle and ill-disposed 
 persons obstructing the public roads, threatened to put the Act in 
 force, eulogised Dick Mart3m and the Act for the Prevention of 
 Cruelty to Animals, steamed home, thought more coolly over the 
 matter, tied up his dog, to the great joy of the whole population, 
 and for the rest of his days won't he hate flies, rods, and anglers 
 more devoutly than ever ? " 
 
 With the Colonel punctuality was a virtue and something more, 
 so, in order that his peace of mind might not be disturbed, I enjoined 
 Willie to have the car at the door five minutes before the hour 
 specified by my old friend, and ere the clock struck eight we were 
 clear of the town. 
 
 The driving was on the most approved Hibernian principle a 
 principle, by the way, I never understood correctly, but which in 
 practice naay be reduced to two heads level ground, pace moderate ; 
 down hill, awful. There was a sufficient proportion of incline to 
 display our driver's skill to considerable advantage, and make 
 me feel anything but comfortable under his guidance. "Thank 
 goodness!" I ejaculated, "here's the last descent." As we gained 
 the brow, signs of the coming event became evident. The driver 
 shook himself more firmly into his seat, and carefully deposited the 
 pipe in his waistcoat pocket. The horse, too, pricked up his ears, 
 and stepped out more briskly ; he also was getting ready. With a 
 whoop and a shout the game animal started off at a gallop, and the 
 light vehicle bounded and flew over the stones, rolling heavily from 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 183 
 
 windward to leeward like a ship in a gale of wind. Fortunately we 
 reached the bottom in safety, when I duly registered a vow that, if 
 not dead lame, I would ride up and walk down all hills that might 
 lay in my course hereafter through "the Far West." 
 
 Lakes always possess one advantage over rivers ^namely, a greater 
 liability to feel the influence of wind, and it must be calm indeed 
 if a sheet of water large as Lough Conn is not in good angling trim 
 for an hour or two during the day. When we left Ballina there was 
 a nice westerly air ; when we reached our destination the whole lake 
 sparkled with ten thousand tiny wavelets laughing and breaking in 
 the morning sun. So favourable an opportunity was not to be lost, 
 and, with Pat as pilot and Willie at the sculls, we were almost 
 immediately on the ground. 
 
 " I say, Walter, no poaching ; that's my property," remarked the 
 Colonel, jerking his fly from the centre of a dull, deep eddy. " Back 
 a stroke or two, Willie, and we'll come over him again with some- 
 thing new." True fell the line, and at the fourth cast he came 
 again. 
 
 " I seen him that time, sir. He's a raal ould spring fish, as red as 
 a brick. Thim is sad deluders, always a-sajdng sweet things, but 
 niver meaning ony thing. There's no getting the likes of him to the 
 church door. He's too old to be caught." 
 
 " We'll try. Master Willie. Back her again. Very ancient birds 
 are sometimes taken with chaff, you know." 
 
 The rising fly once more fell near him. " There's luck in odd 
 numbers," says Rory O'More. I almost felt the sharp steel cut into 
 his gristly jaw. With a hand so perfect as that of my old friend 
 over him, his doom was sealed ; it was only a question of time, so, 
 quite at ease as to the ultimate result, I went on with my work. It 
 was a likely hour, and in a few minutes I too was " in a salmon." 
 No sooner was the deed done than the enormity of the misdemeanor 
 struck me in all its force. I ought to have reeled up, and so have 
 given my companion fair play. Now there was no help for it but to 
 break, or kill my fish out of hand. Shortening the line I gave him 
 the butt, keeping up a strain so severe that the light grilse rolled 
 
184 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 over and over on the surface, beating tlie water into a sheet of foam. 
 Ere a minute elapsed, Pat got a chance, slipped the gaff into his 
 side, and all danger of a foul was over. The veteran cast a grim 
 look at the offending party. " I forgive you this time, but mind you 
 don't do it again." Meanwhile the wrathful angler was doing his 
 part manfully with a heavy antagonist, who was tugging away far 
 below the surface with a steady perseverance which deserved a better 
 fate. More and more languid grew his efforts, and in less than haK 
 an hour he lay on the water like a log, and was presently gaffed in 
 very workmanlike style by a gentleman whose name need not be 
 recorded. As Willie's practised eye had remarked, he proved an 
 early spring fish, very red, and not in the condition he had been 
 some five months before ; nevertheless, Salter's balance declared that 
 the Colonel's prize weighed nearly 151b. The breeze held up till 
 noon, by which time we had secured six grilse besides the com- 
 mander's "old bird." The alteration in the weather necessitated a 
 change in our mode of fishing ; the flies were laid aside and the 
 trolling tackle produced. My old companion selected a small trout 
 and an artificial minnow, whilst I thought myself fortunate in the 
 possession of the tail of an eel and a light spoon that could spin. 
 Pat had on the previous day declared the quantity of perch to be 
 prodigious, and so we found it. Gliding along the north-west shore, 
 we were kept constantly at work by this beautiful fish, every now 
 and then getting a good one from 2Jlb. to S-Jlb. 
 
 As we passed along, the scenery assumed so wild and desolate a 
 character as well to merit the appellation of sublime. From its 
 western shore Mount Nephin rose abruptly, towering to the height 
 of 2646ft. whilst on either side, peak above peak, all purple and 
 gold, melted away in the distance, here affording a last resting 
 place for the rays of the sinking sun, and there lying sombre and 
 dark in shadow. Like most of the Connaught mountains their sides 
 were checkered with mighty masses of granite, standing out in high 
 relief from the blossoming heather and the deeper foliage of the 
 pines. 
 
 When within a few hundred yards of the low bridge whose single 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 185 
 
 arch spans the short and naiTow channel which connects the lower 
 with the upper lake, I was summoned back to the realities of life by 
 a simultaneous shout from the Colonel and Pat. A powerful fish 
 had dashed at the troll, and his strength, exerted in a direction 
 opposed to the course of the boat, had already dragged three parts 
 of the rod under water. To seize the butt and check our speed 
 were matters of course. Pat protested we were "in" another 
 salmon, whilst "Willie, whose fingers had suffered severely during 
 the morning savagely affirmed ** 'twas only a pike, bad cess to 
 him!" A bold dash from the surface removed all doubts by 
 showing us the best trout we had seen during the day. Eight or 
 ten minutes brought him well under command, and soon he was our 
 own. So short and stout was this laker, that I should never have 
 believed him 6jlb. had not the scales attested the fact. 
 
 In the morning Lough Conn seemed smiling in all the brightness 
 of eternal youth. Now, as we rolled away, it looked cold, grey, 
 and sombre, as the mist curled over it, and the mountain shadows 
 fell deeper and darker over its dreary length. That bad old man, 
 the Colonel, received a severe jobation for keeping dinner waiting 
 for two mortal hours ; priding himself on his punctuality and 
 politeness, the veteran was sadly crestfallen, and did not recover his 
 spirits till Madame, in a neat post-prandial oration, proposed his 
 health, and wished him success during the week equal to that which 
 had crowned the day. Her desire was fulfilled, and even the blood- 
 thirsty commander was so well satisfied that he determined to remain. 
 On the morning of our departure Pat and Terry were in attendance, 
 tucked up the ladies in the first style of art, wished us a pleasant 
 journey and an early meeting, and then, with their " God speed your 
 honour ! " sounding in our ears and finding an echo in our hearts, we 
 trotted up the street, and were soon bowling along the road in the 
 direction of Gal way. 
 
186 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Galway. 
 
 July 29. 
 As the reader will probably spend two or three weeks with us in the 
 wilds of Galway, he will not enjoy his trip in that secluded and 
 semi-civilised region less if he learns something of the physical 
 character and antiquities of the county. The dimensions are about 
 164 miles in length from east to west, by 52 in breadth from north 
 to south ; the extent of coast, which is very irregular, has been 
 estimated at 400 miles, whilst landwards the Shannon and the Suck 
 shut it out from the rest of Christendom. The area, according to 
 the Ordnance survey, consists of cultivated land, 955,922 acres ; 
 unprofitable bog and mountain, 476,957 acres ; and water something 
 less than 100,000 acres. 
 
 With the exception of a spur of the Slieve Boughta mountains, 
 running from the borders of Clare, and a similar extension of the 
 Burrin range, the whole of that part of Galway west of Lough 
 Corrib-^a tract of nearly the same extent as Tipperary is compara- 
 tively flat, and, although to a great degree incumbered with bog, is 
 yet generally productive. The whole district west of Lough Corrib 
 and Lough Mask is known as Connemara ; and what memories and 
 pleasant anticipations does the name recall ! To anyone blessed 
 with a sense of the beautiful, how charming is that uncultivated, 
 half-peopled, and semi-barbarous land, with its endless low swells 
 of swamp and moorland a lake in every low expanse, and a river 
 in every glen. Latterly this region has attracted much attention 
 by its capabilities of improvement, as well as by the charms of its 
 scenery. The bay of Galway bounds it on the south, the Atlantic 
 on the west, and a deep inlet of the sea, called the Killery Harbour, 
 separates it on the north from the mountainous district of Murrisk, 
 in Mayo. From the head of Lough Corrib on the east, to Adris 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 187 
 
 Head on the west, this district extends forty English miles ; and 
 from the head of Killery Harbour on the north, to the bay of Galway 
 on the south, thirty miles. 
 
 This wild tract reaches its greatest altitude in the range known 
 as the Twelve Pins of Bunnabola. This mountain group rises 
 abruptly from a table-land of moderate elevation, and forms a 
 picture few can behold without emotion. By night or day, in storm 
 or sunshine, this glorious band, whether clad in thin misty mantles 
 or spreading their purple breasts to the autumn sun, are equally 
 beautiful ; elemental changes sweep over them like emotions over 
 some face we love to look on, ever varying but never marring its 
 loveliness. Bound their bases are numerous lakes, of which the 
 chief are Lough Ina ; the upper and lower lakes of Ballinahinch 
 skirting their southern slopes and Kylemore, away to the north- 
 west. Although the whole of this tract is generally known as 
 Connemara, it is properly divided into three districts, that portion 
 lying between the head of the Killeries and Lough Corrib being 
 termed " Joyce's Country ; " that to the south of the Pins, Jar 
 Connaught, or Western Connaught ; and the remainder, extending 
 westward from Bunnabola to the Atlantic, constituting Connemara 
 proper. Nothing of this extensive tract is known to the general 
 mass of tourists, who follow each other like a string of wild ducks 
 along the high road from Galway to Clifden, and from Clifden to 
 Westport ; and yet to my mind the whole world offers nothing more 
 solitary, nothing more interesting. If this be so to the ordinary 
 tourist, what must a ramble in such a region afford to the angler ? 
 All the charms of solitude and novelty are his, and I know few 
 feelings more intense than those which spring up in a man's breast 
 as he stands for the first time by some unknown mountain lake or 
 brawling river, and, out of sight of humanity, prepares for a day 
 after his own heart. For my part I soon grow sick of the world.; a 
 little goes a great way with me ; it is a dish spiced with condiments 
 all too stimulating for my appetite ; the rivalries, the meannesses, 
 the petty jealousies, and the dirty tricks do not suit me they bring 
 on dyspepsia. In the mountains I never had a fit of indigestion in 
 
188 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 my life. At present I am labouring under a severe attack, and oh, 
 hoio I long to be there ! 
 
 Galway is a world in itself wild, picturesque, and exquisitely 
 beautiful. Forty years since large portions of the country were as 
 inaccessible as when the De Burghos ruled. Without roads, without 
 inns, it was as little known to Britain as Borneo is at the present 
 day. Prior to 1813 the only roads west of Galway were a narrow 
 coast line to Costillo Bay, and a central road by Oughterard to 
 Ballinahinch. These ran over rocks and bogs in so unskilful a 
 manner as to be scarcely passable for any sort of carriage, and 
 the only other means of communication through the district were 
 narrow bridle paths, difficult for horsemen in the summer, and quite 
 impracticable in the winter. On the coast in particular, beyond the 
 Costillo, there was nothing better than a footpath. By the improve- 
 ments, begun in 1822, a complete line is now carried round the 
 district. A coast road has been formed which touches the heads of 
 all the chief inlets from Costillo to the Killeries, where it joins an 
 inland line through the heart of the Joyce's Country to the head of 
 Lough Corrib, and thence across the central plain of Jar Connaught 
 to the southern coast of Costillo Bay. This in a measure opened the 
 country, and attracted so much attention to Connemara that, in all 
 probability, it will at no distant date become the scene of mercantile 
 and agricultural speculations. 
 
 Such was the impassable state of the coast about thirty-six years ago, 
 for the road commenced in 1822, could hardly have been finished 
 under eight years and now the beautiful district from Spiddel to 
 the Killeries forms for the traveller the choicest part of his Irish 
 tour. As his car rolls along he sees a boundless expanse of ocean 
 harbours that for number and security no similar extent of shore 
 in the world can show glorious mountains, countless lakes, and 
 seagirt islands, even yet as primitive as any Sinbad of the nineteenth 
 century is likely to discover in the North or South Pacific. Olifden 
 is comparatively a new town, having been called into existence by 
 the energy of the proprietor, Mr. D'Arcy, in 1821 ; and Eoundstone, 
 the port from which the beautiful green marble of Ballinahinch is 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN lEELAND. 189 
 
 shipped, has within the last few years grown rapidly into importance. 
 In 1854 the Law Life Assurance Society became possessed of the 
 Connemara property, on which they had previously advanced money 
 by way of loan to the amount of 160,000/. From the chairman's 
 report for 1864, it appeared that the property paid 4 per cent., and 
 that since the auditing of the accounts the fisheries alone had risen 
 3000/. in annual value. All that this vast district required was 
 money to develop its resources. Henceforth this will not be wanting, 
 and the estate that broke poor Dick Marty n's heart will probably 
 prove one of the brightest jewels in the crown of this Croesus of 
 societies. 
 
 Galway is rich in antiquities. At Ballygaddy, Kilbannon, Meelick, 
 and Ardrahan, there are round towers. Cromlechs and stone circles 
 are of frequent occurrence. 
 
 Of the numerous remains of religious houses throughout Galway, 
 the ruined Abbey Knockmoy is the most interesting. It was founded 
 in 1189 by Cathal O'Conner, sumamed " The Red Hand," in conse- 
 quence of a victory obtained by him over the English under Almeric 
 St. Lawrence. Above the tomb of the founder are some curious 
 fresco paintings of great interest, as exhibiting the costume of the 
 native Irish. The Phrygian cap, represented as worn by several of 
 the figures, will some day attract the attention of antiquaries. 
 Knockmoy well deserves a visit for its architecture, which indicates 
 considerable advancement in the arts amongst its founders. The 
 Raths of the early inhabitants and the ruined strongholds of the 
 Anglo-Norman lords are also numerous. 
 
 Every street in the quaint old town of Galway is a page of 
 romance. It is impossible to pass carved arches leading into the 
 courtyards of great gaunt-looking houses, without being irresistibly 
 reminded that each has a history. These places, now so mournfully 
 silent in all the dignity of decayed gentility, once knew better days 
 ^when the Don brought Bilboa blades, Cordova leather, port and 
 canary to the good merchants. What they could have done with 
 all these things is a mystery. That they drank a good deal of the 
 wine is highly probable, and that, being pugnacious, they used the 
 
190 A YEAE OP LIBERTY ; OE, 
 
 weapons, is also likely ; but what they did with the general cargoes I 
 cannot imagine. The country is a thousand times more rich now than 
 it was then ; and where the merchants found customers, or how the 
 customers found money oh ! I give it up ; 'tis worse than the Pons 
 Asinorum. The railway hotel, which occupies one side of the 
 principal square, is perhaps the largest in Ireland, Killarney excepted. 
 Here, in 1859, only seven short years ago, poor Leech penned some 
 of his amusing sketches. " He saw," he says, " whilst lionising the 
 town, a great deal that was very amusing, and a great deal that was 
 very dirty." He saw traces of Spanish architecture in quaint gate- 
 ways and quadrangular courts ; he saw Lynch's Castle, and found its 
 grotesque carving very curious ; he saw the house in Dead Man's 
 Lane, where lived Fitz-Stephen, Warden of Galway ; he saw ware- 
 houses without ware ; he saw and greatly admired Queen's College ; 
 he saw chapels and nunneries, whence the Angelus bell sounded as 
 he passed ; and, above all, he saw the '' Claddagh." About this dirty 
 suburb pages have been written ; it is simply the fishermen's quarter, 
 consisting of poor, ruinous cabins, " with walls of mud and stone, 
 and for the most part, windowless, the floors damp and dirty, and 
 the roof a mass of rotten straw and weeds." *' As to the origin of 
 these Claddagh people, I am not sufiSciently ' up ' in ethnology to 
 state with analytical exactness the details of their descent, but I 
 imagine them to be one-third Irish, one-third Arabian, and the other 
 Zingaro or Spanish gipsy. I thought I recognised in the old lady 
 an Ojibbeway chief who frightened me a good deal in my childhood, 
 but she had lost the expression of ferocity, and I was, perhaps 
 mistaken." 
 
 In this work the reader has rarely been troubled with quotations. 
 Personally I abhor them, and should certainly avoid the society of 
 my best friend if he had a predilection for inflicting bad Latin and 
 worse Greek on a trusting comrade. Yet in this chapter I have not 
 only quoted from the sparkling pages of Leech, but have been picking 
 and stealing from the heavy wisdom of the Ordnance survey. The 
 fact is, I do not like the task before me, and for once in my life 
 avoid the river like an insane dog. Internally, no mortal is more 
 
SALMON ANaLINQ IN IRELAND. 191 
 
 fond of the cold element ; externally, I hold the application of tepid 
 water to the surface of the human body, not only agreeable, but 
 useful in the highest degree ; but to put my foot voluntarily into hot 
 water is what I do not like. 
 
 Well, once on a time '*' the angling " here was admirable, from the 
 tideway to the weirs, and from the weirs to the lake. In the spring 
 the fishing is chiefly confined to that portion of the water between the 
 salmon steps and the Goal-bridge, but occasionally, if the river becomes 
 low, a few good casts are to be found by wading between the bridge 
 and the cribs. 
 
 Now this portion of the water would afford admirable angling to 
 the sportsman, did not a most ungentlemanly custom of stroke- 
 hauling prevail. This pot-hunting work is so exasperating that the 
 gentlest disciple of Izaak would raise his voice against it. Before 
 setting out from Ballina I had a pretty good notion of the peculiar 
 mode in which " sport " is conducted at Gal way ; but Galway lay in 
 my route, as I wished to see the various club and private waters 
 between that point and the Errive ; so I comforted myself with the 
 knowledge that, if unbearable, we could order a car at any moment, 
 and leave the "sportsmen'' to pursue their avocations in peace. 
 "I was there in March," wrote a friend to whom I applied for 
 information, " and saw amongst other iniquities, one spring fish 
 weighing 27lb. hooked in the vent and hauled out in three minutes. 
 Abo at the middle of April a strong north-west wind blew back the 
 water on the lake and left the fish nearly dry, when the stroke- 
 hauling became so bad that I could stand it no longer." On this 
 subject we will hear another witness. " You ask how we are getting 
 on in this place of ill-fame ; we are now drawing near the end of 
 June, and the continued dry weather has affected us so much, that 
 from the salmon steps to the bridge there is hardly water to cover 
 the fish ; the fly is, of course, out of the question, so I work the 
 tideway in a boat about the distillery wall, and have the pleasure of 
 
 seeing that *real sportsman,' Mr. G , stroke-hauling; no doubt 
 
 he is an adept, as he takes from thirty to forty per day, and 
 sometimes breaks two or three rods another point of excellence 
 
192 A TEAR OF LIBERTT; OB, 
 
 for you are aware the art- consists in dragging each fish out 
 neck and heels by main force. At this time the tackle in fashion 
 consisted of from four to six large hooks tied on a hemp line, 
 with which the water is raked from end to end. I do not hesitate 
 to say it is useless for a fair sportsman to attempt to fish here under 
 existing circumstances." 
 
 Thus wrote as honest an English gentleman and as good an 
 angler as need be. It may be easily imagined, therefore, I went to 
 bed in the railway hotel with small intention of heeding the seducing 
 voices of the early cocks in the " quaint old Spanish town." The 
 musical sound of the clock in the fine church tower in the square 
 chanted matins at four ; at five it seemed to say, *' I am afraid you 
 can't be well ;" at six its warning tones, I fear, fell on drowsy 
 senses ; but when the next admonitions of my gentle monitor met 
 my ears, I hopped out of bed and took an airing at the window. 
 There lay the square in the full blaze of the summer's sun ; the 
 brave and industrious girls of the Claddagh were vending their fish ; 
 a poor scholar, with a few tattered volumes under his arm, loitered 
 by the railings, eyeing the cannon, and perhaps admiring the flowers ; 
 and a Bianconi, piled high with tourists' luggage, was preparing for 
 its westward journey. In fact the world was awake, and what 
 excuse had I for sleeping ? Dressing that morning was a slow opera- 
 tion ; breakfast was more slow, and the leading article of the Galway 
 Mirror was the slowest of all. At length there was no further 
 reason for delay. Willie had been in and out of the room at least 
 twenty times. Mademoiselle placed pipe-case, pouch, and fly-book 
 in my hat, and laid it on the table. It was clear I was expected to 
 go out. 
 
 The river, although a beautiful piece of water, is but short, and 
 on it I found many persons angling after the mode prevalent in 
 
 Q-alway. Whether that admirable sportsman Mr. G was 
 
 amongst the number I did not stop to inquire ; but, taking a boat, 
 paddled about, hoping to find some indifferent cast where we might 
 be allowed to spend an hour or two in peace. Dodging hither and 
 thither, sometimes fishing after a "sportsman" who had raked the 
 
SALMON ANGLINa IN IBELAND. 193 
 
 water from end to end, pricking and lacerating six or seven grilse for 
 every one dragged out sometimes casting into dou'tful little runs 
 and eddies, where it was just possible a fish might be found we 
 worked on till we could endure it no longer. In many lands, and 
 during many years. I have seen as much fishing as most men, but I 
 am bound to say that at Galway I beheld something new. I cannot 
 say I liked it, and must observe that, had one of those sportsmen 
 pursued his pastime in such fashion elsewhere, he would have run 
 considerable risk of being taken up for poaching ; nor will I deny 
 that in my opinion he would have richly earned a month at the 
 treadmill. There is no accounting for taste, but in common honesty 
 let no such performers again send the results of their angling for 
 publication to any of our sporting journals. Of course, if a man 
 enjoys the rare privilege of hooking salmon by the tail instead of by 
 the head, he may use his opportunity ; but let him call his achieve- 
 ment by its right name, and say, " I have murdered so many, but in 
 fair fight I have vanquished none." Notwithstanding the heavy 
 odds against us, in one sense we were unusually fortunate, killing 
 every fish that showed at the fly ; true it is we had but six rises five 
 from white trout and one by a grilse ; but it was some comfort in our 
 disquiet to have done all that could be done. After a somewhat 
 early dinner, it yet wanted between four and five hours to sundown. 
 To lionise the place was impossible, for that had been done already 
 
 in a former visit ; to face Mr. G and his friends again was not 
 
 to be thought of ; so, after due deliberation, it was determined to 
 take boat and paddle over the neck of the lake between the town and 
 Sir Thomas Blake's. Once on a time this stretch of water offered 
 admirable salmon angling, but for some years past it has not given a 
 fish to the rod. Unless the bottom had been changed by the deposi- 
 tion of new matter, or some considerable alteration had taken place 
 in the depth of the water, I never knew fish desert lodges which had 
 been used from time immemorial. I was unable to ascertain that 
 either of these agencies had been in operation here, and yet it was 
 as certain that the space between the back of the cribs and Sir 
 Thomas Blake's mansion contained excellent salmon casts not long 
 
 o 
 
194 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 since, as that at present it does not hold a rising fish. Our hopes, 
 therefore, were limited to the capture of a dish of trout. Happily, 
 these anticipations were realised, and we enjoyed a pleasant, if we 
 did not spend a very profitable, evening on Lough Corrib. 
 
 This lake offers noble trolling for trout at an earlier season ; 
 occasionally fish of great weight are to be taken. I never tried it, 
 but was informed that one of 27-Jlb. had been killed by the rod, 
 though the exact date of the capture seemed uncertain. This, of 
 course, was one of the great prizes sometimes drawn in life's lottery, 
 yet I have reason to believe that lakers of lOlb. or 121b. may 
 with some little perseverance, be secured. Many of my friends who 
 have made Oughterard their head quarters in April and May, have 
 spoken well of their success. In such an inland sea as Lough Corrib 
 patient angling must eventuate in great results, and the same thing 
 may be said of all .other large lakes in the island. The high estima- 
 tion in which certain stations are held is often due more to their 
 greater accessibility than their greater deserts. Impatience is one 
 common fault amongst anglers, and a tendency to follow in the 
 beaten track is another ; but I am persuaded that if gentlemen 
 inquired carefully and consulted their travelling maps diligently, they 
 would often obtain far better and cheaper angling than by over- 
 crowding some few spots to the neglect of others as good, if not 
 better. Such at least has been my experience. 
 
 This dreary chapter and this dreary day at Galway are closing 
 together. One has been sufficient, I cannot stand another, and 
 shall to-morrow commence a ramble over some of the private and 
 club waters, of which so many are to be found, in this delicious 
 wilderness of Connemara. 
 
SALMON ANOLINQ IN IRELAND. 195 
 
 CHAPTEE XXIX. 
 
 Spiddal Costello Screebe Furnace Kilkerran Bay Birterbury Bay 
 Roundstone Ballinahinch Clifden View from Urrisbeg. 
 
 August 3. 
 Post tenebeas lux health after sickness, joy after sorrow, day 
 after night, are each in their way delightful, and doubly so from the 
 mere force of contrast. Yesterday I wrought on an uncongenial 
 theme, and at an occupation for the first time in my life distasteful ; 
 but the page has been written, the work is over, and now Galway 
 seems to wear a new aspect, as we drive through the streets to gain 
 the beautiful road which, coasting along the western shores of the 
 bay, skirting fiords, and winding among mountains, at length strikes 
 the Killeries, and brings the tourist to the banks of the Enive. 
 
 Through the almost uninhabited solitudes of Jar-Connaught fiow 
 three small streams of exceeding goodness, the Spiddal, the Costello, 
 and the Screebe ; farther to the west we find the Ballinahinch 
 fishery, Kylemore, and others ; and at the edge of the county, where 
 it touches Mayo, we have Delphi and the Errive. 
 
 Now the majority of these are club waters, and the remainder 
 annually let to one or more rods. It may not be out of place, 
 therefore, as we pass to visit these waters and say a few words on 
 the physical character, piscatorial merits, and market value of each. 
 A charming drive of ten miles along a coast road of marvellous 
 beauty brought us to the little village of Spiddal, through which the 
 stream humes, and at once plunges into the sea. Over the whole 
 country it seemed as if the sky had been raining gi-anite boulders 
 from the Deluge to the present day, so thickly were they spread over 
 hill and valley, whilst in the bed of the Spiddal they lay in masses 
 of every size and form. The comfortable lodge belonging to " the 
 fishery " stands on a lawn that slopes down to the river, on the 
 opposite bank of which rests the village, whilst between the lodge 
 
 o 2 
 
196 A TEAB OF LIBEETY ; OR, 
 
 and the churcli runs the road to Oostello, crossing the river at its 
 mouth. The view of Galway Bay from the house is very fine, nor 
 need the stranger fear bodily starvation whilst banqueting on the 
 beautiful, for in the village he will find good bread, butter, mutton, 
 eggs, and fowls ; and what more can a sportsman desire ? The 
 length of the Spiddal is about twelve miles, but until very recently 
 a waterfall, situated about three miles from the sea, barred the 
 farther progress of the fish, and so practically reduced the river to a 
 fourth of that extent. Now, however, a passage has been made 
 which gives the salmon free access to the head waters, and the 
 benefit of the extended franchise is already beginning to be felt. 
 The water is well preserved, as the proprietor told me he employs 
 eight keepers a very strong staff considering the length of the 
 property to be watched. The stream of which we are speaking 
 resembles in its physical peculiarities the Costello, Screebe, Furnace, 
 and one or two others on the coast, all of which possess an impor- 
 tance far beyond their extent. Considered as rivers, they would 
 rank very low, being in fact little more than mountain brooks of 
 eight or ten miles from the source to the sea, their high character 
 being derived from a chain of small lakes which offer unrivalled 
 white trout angling and salmon fishing of no mean quality. The 
 scenery on the banks of the Spiddal is very lovely. As I saw it, 
 there was a crystal stream fretting and murmuring at the mighty 
 granite blocks that offered a hindrance to its passage ; blooming 
 heather, pleasant woods, and three miles from the sea a waterfall of 
 exceeding beauty ; then came a lake of considerable extent, then 
 another stretch of rivulet, then another smaller lake, and so on to 
 the source. In wet weather the best angling will be found on the 
 river ; in dry seasons on the lakes ; the fish are fine, the salmon 
 running from 51b. to 181b., the white trout from lib. to 6lb. Four 
 or five of the former and a dozen of the latter would be a fair day's 
 sport on the Spiddal ; the proprietor, however, assured me that as 
 many as eleven salmon had been killed in one day by a single rod. 
 Many of the casts are very large and deep, as the Blue Pool, House, 
 Weir, Wood, and Waterfall pools. The river, though very low, was 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 197 
 
 singularly tempting, and had there been a fresh I should have 
 desired nothing better than a day or two on its banks ; but there 
 was no chance of such a thing, so I could only hope for better 
 fortune on some future occasion. The rent of house and angling is 
 100/. per annum ; and what a holiday station for any overworked 
 dweller in our great and busy cities ! Why a turn on the lawn, the 
 music of the waterfall, the purple moorland, the sparkling ocean, the 
 profound quiet, and the delicious air, would be agents more potent 
 for the restoration of health than all the tonics in the pharmacopoeia ; 
 and had I one foot in the grave I should deem that a three months' 
 sojourn in such an angler's paradise would restore me to pristine 
 vigour of brain and body. 
 
 We have yet another ten miles before us, so we roll along by the 
 winding waters of the noble Bay of Galway, drawing nearer and 
 nearer to the Isles of Arran, which stretch their sheltering arms 
 across its mouth, and form a haven where the navies of the world 
 might ride, but where now a few small coasters lie at anchor, with 
 an occasional ship from the Baltic with deals, or a rakish Greek brig 
 with com or meal. Then the road bends suddenly to the west, and 
 we are speeding along the shores of Costello Bay, at the head of 
 which is the far-famed river of the same name a river which, 
 including its lakes, does not, I should imagine, possess a greater 
 length than nine or ten miles. Hardly any water in Britain (or 
 elsewhere probably) of the same extent, has any sporting reputation 
 at all. I never knew a single member of the club, nor did I ever 
 hear any exact details of their sport ; doubtless they have a capital 
 thing, and, like wise men, enjoy their good fortune, and say as little 
 about it as may be. The reticence of the club is admirable ; we hear 
 occasionally spirit-stimng accounts from the Thurso, the Erne, the 
 Spey, or the Moy, but from the Costello " never a word." The rent 
 of this little fishery about 250Z. per annum speaks its excellence ; 
 and as I stood looking at the lodge, glistening in the evening sun- 
 shine, I could not but envy the possessors of such treasures. The 
 situation of the house is perfect, close to the stream, and within a 
 hundred yards of the sea, and whilst looking inland up the course 
 
198 A YEAE or LIBERTY ; OE, 
 
 of the river, we confessed we had seldom seen a wilder or mord^ 
 enchanting view. Like the Spiddal, the Costello requires rain to 
 bring it up to concert pitch ; and failing this the club are always 
 able to fall back on the lakes. 
 
 At the head of a deep inlet called Kilkerran Bay two small rivers 
 fall into the sea the Screebe and the Furnace. These are new 
 candidates for fame, and will probably within a few years equal, 
 if they do not surpass, their older rivals. The Screebe has a 
 course as long as either of the rivers I have recently described, 
 and, moreover, has one peculiarity which distinguishes it from 
 every other stream with which I am acquainted, for so close is 
 the lower lake to the beach that at spring tides the fish are 
 carried directly into it, and if disposed can at once ascend to three 
 others. This is an incalculable advantage, as it makes the small 
 river entirely independent of rain. These waters falling into the 
 sea near each other are naturally in the hands of the same lessees. 
 I cannot, however, do better than tell my story in the words of the 
 able and energetic manager : 
 
 " The Screebe fishery is located north-west of Galway. You pass 
 its head waters twenty-two miles from that town, on the Clifden- 
 road, at a place called the Cross-roads. From the source it runs 
 about ten miles due west through a number of lakes, and then falls 
 into the head of Kilkerran Bay. The Furnace is a small stream 
 running through several good lakes south-west of the Screebe, and 
 falls into the same bay near the mouth of that river. It contains 
 both salmon and sea-trout, but is a late stream, the fish not coming 
 up before the first summer flood. As regards the sport to be had in 
 these lakes (for it is chiefly lake fishing), I consider it is not to be 
 equalled in Ireland, or I may say will not be in another year or two. 
 The present lessees have only had it one year, and up to that time 
 the fishery had not been cared for, except to kiU every fish possible 
 for the market. The spawning ground on this fishery was hardly 
 enough to breed as many fish as would keep the otters, cranes, 
 and cormorants which lived on it ; but the spawning ground has 
 b^^'Ti now increased tenfold ; thirteen otters have been killed, and 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 190 
 
 above one hundred cranes. A full-grown otter can eat 365 salmon 
 at ten pounds each in one year, provided he dine off salmon every 
 day, and a crane can swallow fifty or so of smolts for breakfast. 
 As these have been destroyed, and as there was no netting last, and 
 will be none in the coming, season, I anticipate seeing the best sport 
 ever witnessed in Ireland. Last season I saw one of the lessees kill 
 forty-two sea-trout and two salmon with his own rod in one day. 
 The sea-trout are in abundance and afford excellent sport. The 
 fishing opens on the 1st of February and closes on the last day of 
 October, but I cannot say there is good sport before June, and July 
 is still better. Although the fish come into the lakes at any time, I 
 never saw many up before June, but as they increase I have no doubt 
 they will come earlier, and then May will become a good month. I 
 propagated in this river last season nearly 400,000 salmon, and, all 
 being well, shall put down a million ova next spawning-time. The 
 accommodation for gentlemen will be first-rate. A new house has 
 been built, which will be opened on the Ist of May. There are 
 seven bedi'ooms besides dining and drawing-rooms ; it has been 
 built expressly for the comfort of anglers. It stands at the 
 head of a sea lough, five miles from the Cross-roads, and within a 
 quarter of a mile of some of the best fishing. As regards the board, 
 I expect it will be very moderate. The scenery round the lakes of 
 the Screebe is very picturesque, though there is not as much wood in 
 the neighbourhood as would make a skewer. You see nothing but 
 water, bog, rock, and hiUs." 
 
 The laws laid down for the guidance of the infant states are so 
 excellent I make no apology for giving them in extenso : 
 
 1. The price of each ticket for a single rod to be three guineas a week, this 
 BTun to include the use of boats and of a funiished lodge at Screebe. 
 
 2. Anglers may keep the fish they catcla, except when otherwise stated in 
 the rules. 
 
 3. No cross-line fishing or snatching allowed. 
 
 4. No gaffs allowed ; landing-nets will be provided with the boats. 
 
 5. AU spent fish to be returned to the water. 
 
 6. Water bailiffs to be always employed as boatmen, and paid l*. 6d. per day 
 each. 
 
200 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 7. No boats allowed on the water except those provided by the lessees or 
 their manager. 
 
 8. Gentlemen shall not permit their attendants to angle. 
 
 9. All licences to be taken out in the Galway district ; they may be obtained 
 at Galway, Oughterard, Glendalough, Deeradda Lodge, Carna, Spiddal, Cur- 
 rafin, Tuam, and of Mr. Thomas Comely, at the lodge. 
 
 10. Season tickets only will be transferable. 
 
 11. Any ticket holder violating any of the above rules to forfeit his ticket. 
 
 On the westernmost arm of Kilkerran Bay is a stream smaller than 
 either of those yet named probably less than half their size yet it 
 is the outlet and connecting link between two or three small lakes, 
 and beyond question would afiford good fishing for white trout in the 
 autumn. It appears, however, from want of accommodation to be 
 absolutely inaccessible, except from points too remote to make it of 
 any value. 
 
 At the head of Birterbury Bay is a similar little river, which, like 
 the preceding, will doubtless soon be cultivated, and at small cost 
 give large retunis. Yonder is Eoundstone Bay, at the head of which 
 stands a thriving village of the same name, destined some day when 
 the science and enterprise, the engineering and agricultural skill of 
 the nineteenth century are brought to bear on the latent resources of 
 Connemara to play an important part in the import and export trade 
 of the district. Here poor Dick Martyn, in the hope of redeemiifg 
 his sinking fortunes, founded the village of Eoundstone, perhaps with 
 a portion of the 160,000/. advanced by the Law Life Assurance 
 Company on his family estate. I wonder whether any of the happy 
 careless spirits who now haunt Ballinahinch with '' a ticket " for a 
 week, fortnight, or month, ever pause to reflect on the awful mutation 
 in " the master's " fortunes, or the broken heart of the last of his 
 race ? It matters not, for both are now beyond the reach of human 
 sympathy or human selfishness. 
 
 As a club water Ballinahinch is too well known to need any 
 remarks from me. It has so long been extensively frequented, that 
 it will be better to employ the space which yet remains in speaking 
 of other stations of less note. Connemara offers the best white 
 trout fishing in Ireland. From the Spiddal all round the extensive 
 
SALMON ANGLINa IN lEELAND. 201 
 
 sea-board of Jar-Connaught to the head of the Killeries, this beauti- 
 ful fish abounds, and, in my opinion, foims the raw material from 
 which the best sport is produced. In this lovely district of course 
 there are salmon ; but if the numbers of trout be taken into con- 
 sideration, I think it will be admitted that they form par excellence 
 the fishing of Connemara. The lakes round Ballinahinch are justly 
 celebrated for the sport they afford. I never fished them, but hope 
 shortly to do so. 
 
 The road to Clifden skirts the ''Lake Country," seen to such 
 romantic perfection from the summit of Urrisbeg mountain. It is 
 a wild, solitary, and almost uninhabited tract, with here and there 
 a cabin dotting the vast flat. Innumerable pools, lakes, and water- 
 holes light up the heathery waste, some of the large sheets of water 
 bearing many a lovely islet, whose woody drapery ^the dark and 
 sombre yew seems quite in harmony with the mournful loveliness 
 of all around. In the great family of towns Clifden ranks as a mere 
 baby. Five-and-forty years ago, history tells us, there was not a 
 house, where now there is a town, not made up of a mere collection 
 of hovels, but with three or four fair streets, decked with many good 
 shops ; altogether it forms a sort of sanctuary in the desert. It was 
 too late to push on to Kylemore, and the divine beauty of the 
 evening, showed, past all doubt, that we were quite as well in 
 Clifden. Even my angling insanity could draw no picture of oppor- 
 tunity wasted, so with a heart at ease I strolled towards " the 
 castle," down the banks of a narrow and beautiful inlet. The tide 
 was full and so calm that the rugged shores seemed to grow 
 beneath the water. Beyond the narrow entrance the broad breast 
 of the Atlantic lay so peaceful that it seemed hard to believe it 
 could ever be disturbed by stormy passions. Rounding one of the 
 headlands of the bay, Clifden Castle came into view. In the house 
 there was nothing remarkable, but for situation it was unrivalled. 
 Behind are mountains, wood, and lakes ; in front a noble lawn 
 stretches down to the beautiful land-locked bay, whilst to the right 
 the eye ranges over the glorious ocean until it mingles with the dim 
 and far-off horizon. 
 
20^ A YEAR or LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 Whilst watcHing all this loveliness the sun sank into the sea, and 
 presently a deep rosy flush rose higher and higher till it reached the 
 zenith, when it began to descend towards the south-east. Can that 
 portend rain ? Every sign in heaven, earth, and air said No. Then 
 it must be for wind ; and the sun, which has just sunk to rest, must 
 rise very early to-morrow if he wishes to see me before I have 
 measured half the distance to Kylemore. 
 
 For the last three or four days we have been following the coast 
 line which bounds Connemara, and have in that time shown the 
 reader " bits" of this fair land ; but before leaving it, if he desires 
 to obtain a bird's-eye of the whole, let him come with me to the 
 summit of Urrisbeg, and see as glorious a panorama as ever was 
 spread out to call forth man's adoration and fill his heart with 
 gladness. The rough mountain path has long been lost, and now 
 we wander on over a carpet of heather spangled with a thousand 
 flowers, from slope to slope, till we gain the highest point. South- 
 wards the whole coast lies spread out before us, with its innumer- 
 able bays and deep fiords sleeping in the sunshine ; whilst dense 
 volumes of white smoke from the kelp-burners' kilns spread a silvery 
 veil over sea and land. Looking northwards towards Urrismore the 
 eye wanders far and wide over a vast level district nearly uninhabited, 
 almost uncultivated, and dotted with well nigh three hundred lakes, 
 whilst at our feet blooms in rare luxuriance the Menziesia polifolia, 
 many a saxifrage, and the deep purple stars of the Gentiana 
 autumnalis, with a hundred more common but not less beautiful 
 plants. 
 
 How such a picture stirs the blood and gives fresh vigour to brain 
 and limb ! Such a view once seen becomes engraven for ever on the 
 memory, and will visit us many a day hence, when once more in the 
 busy world, to cheer us in sorrow and give us new strength for 
 fresh toil. 
 
SALMON ANGUNG IN IBELAND. 203 
 
 CHAPTEE XXX. 
 
 Early Morning Up before the Sun Autumn The Evening fulfils its Promise 
 A Breeze Journey to Kylemore A Day on the Lake Doings for the 
 Week Leenane The Killeries Delphi The Errive Drive to Westport 
 The Reek, and what we saw there On to Newport. 
 
 August 18. 
 The world was asleep when we trotted out of Olifden. A few stars 
 still lingered in the cool grey sky, winking wearily after their long 
 watch ; the valleys, the brown moorlands, and the bases of the 
 Twelve Pins were all in their white night-robes ; the horse seemed 
 walking in his sleep ; the driver snored audibly, and two of our 
 party were thinking profoundly with their eyes shut ; all was in 
 harmony with nature, for nature slept. Oh, give me the morning, 
 the fresh, beautiful morning the infancy of the day ! There is a 
 hopefulness about it that no other portion of the twenty-four hours 
 possesses, for there is yet a long stretch ere noon. Then how soon 
 the sun begins to decline ; little by little the shadows lengthen ; 
 twilight deepens into night ; another day is gone, and we are so 
 much nearer to the inevitable hour. But now we think not of 
 night, for the morn is in its prime. Away up in the clear sky the 
 Twelve Pins lift their immortal heads, and look down on us creatures 
 of an hour with quiet majesty. An old cock grouse is chattering 
 drowsily to himself of the fun he hopes to have with his wife and 
 family ; perhaps he is laying out his plans for the day, thinking 
 where the richest bilberries grow, or meditating what mountain 
 watercourse affords the longest and most blooming ling for their 
 midday siesta. The small rough cattle have not yet risen to break- 
 fast ; only the restless sheep and goats are up and working for their 
 daily bread, whilst an angler, equally restless no doubt to the 
 secret disgust of his wife and family is padding through the 
 mountains a full half hour before the sun will show his face and 
 bid the world "good morrow." To my mind the scenery between 
 
204 A TEAR OF LIBEETY ; OE, 
 
 Clifden and the Killeries is the finest in the island. The road, now 
 climbing a spur of the hills, reveals a thousand charms of earth and 
 ocean, and anon rounding a quiet inlet, or coasting along the shores 
 of a lake, gives us a peep up some lonely ravine into the deeper 
 recesses of the mountains, at this season clad in the gorgeous flora 
 of autumn. When we started on our wanderings, winter lay heavy 
 on the dead earth ; and now spring and summer are past can it be 
 so ; for in my heart it is still spring. Have two-thirds of the year 
 of liberty slipped away ? has it passed with the spring buds and 
 summer flowers ? Yes, the golden stars of the bog asphodel, 
 and the bilberry with its delicate bloom, preach of the fading 
 year. Well, carpe diem, we must do the best with the days that 
 remain ! 
 
 With the red sunrise comes the first faint flutter of the breeze. 
 Presently the mountain gorges take up their song ; dark masses of 
 cloud float swiftly over the sky, thronging and thickening ; in short 
 there is half a gale from the westward so wake up, oh driver! 
 and push on with all speed for Kylemore, for I want some breakfast, 
 and hunger still more on such a day as this to feel the rod in my 
 fingers, and hear the wheel give out a yell of triumph over the first 
 victim. 
 
 What a heau ideal of a station is this. From its proximity to the 
 water and its distance from all other dwellings, the angler has to 
 deal with the inmates of the house and none others ; but on Irish 
 lakes generally there is little fear of overcrowding, and on none less 
 than Kylemore. True it is, for a day or part of a day there may be 
 an eruption of tourists, who jump off their cars, rush to the lake, 
 and hurry on elsewhere with the first light of the next morning ; 
 but nineteen times out of twenty the sportsman remaining at the 
 inn for a week or month will generally have the water to himself, at 
 least during the earlier part of the day. Although not by any means 
 first-class in point of size, it yet contains room for four or five rods, 
 even if those who hold them be ever so jealous and unsociable. 
 Probably Lough Currane and Lough Melvin are as heavily fished as 
 any of the Lish waters, and on them, certainly in July and August, 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 205 
 
 I have more than once wished my next neighbour " farther ; " but, 
 as a rule, an angler's sport is never materially injured from the too 
 close proximity of unwelcome neighbours. As we drove along the 
 shores of this solitary lake to the inn our impatience augmented 
 with every step. The water was dark with wind and clouds, and 
 the miniature rollers broke on the beach with a sullen plash, that 
 made breakfast a botheration and delay intolerable. The gracious 
 Duncan (his throne is vacant now) handed mistress and maid from 
 the car, and received in the same breath a contradictory order for 
 instant boat and immediate breakfast. " There was plenty of time," 
 he said, " lashins of it ; the wind would last till midnight any way, 
 perhaps for a week, and gintlemen must eat ; he'd see about a boat." 
 On that occasion only, I brewed the social beverage ; poured it out a 
 moment afterwards ; swallowed a cup of hot straw-coloured water, 
 two or three degrees below the boiling point, pocketed a piece of 
 bread, and rushed frantically out, to find Duncan the Good spelling 
 over the address, and regarding with a puzzled aspect the innumerable 
 railway labels which by this time were nearly as good as an outside 
 cover, and formed, in fact, a sort of supplementary cuticle to my 
 portmanteau. Leaning against the wall was a tall thin peasant, 
 with a bilious countenance, in close conversation with a little round 
 redfaced man, obviously the brewer in ordinary to all the illicit stills 
 yet. to be found in the mountains. These gentlemen, seeing a car 
 drive along at such an unusual hour, had come up on speculation, 
 and, in fact, were " just the boys " Duncan wanted at least, so he 
 said. In another minute the boat's keel grated over the pebbles, 
 when the long man seizing the sculls paddled us off over the wavelets, 
 every crest of which was whitened by the sweeping breeze that 
 hurried over them. Such a day made success a certainty. All was 
 in readiness when the bilious man squared the boat to let her drive 
 fairly over the throw, and the instant he lay on his oars, away flew 
 the flies (a mixed cast for trout and salmon) into the heaving waters. 
 Every foot, nay every inch, the line traversed was so hopeful that I 
 expected to see a broad tail or silvery side flash up each instant. 
 Another, and another cast, " Kylemore can't be as good as I 
 
206 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 thought." A horrible quarter of an hour succeeded, during which 
 a despondency, as unreasonable as the previous high pitch of my 
 expectations had been extravagant, settled down on me. Ten 
 minutes more, and then the usual hopeful patience once again had 
 full possession of me. It is always a good plan to change the tackle 
 in doubtful cases, for it largely increases the chance of success by 
 keeping hope alive ; so two fresh trout-flies, larger and brighter, 
 were substituted in place of the discarded insects, and a dark green 
 fur body with crimson tips, smoky blue hackle, jay shoulder and 
 jungle-cock wing, occupied the post of honour. What glorious rises 
 even small fish make on such a day. Had I not hooked him, I 
 should have sworn the two-pound trout tugging at the end of my 
 line had been a salmon. Another and another followed at short 
 intervals. Then there was a magnificent rise at the little dropper, 
 and the stout fish, shooting past our stem, steamed right away 
 in the wind's eye. A breeze so heavy as that which now prevailed, 
 always creates a difficulty, by preventing the angler measuring with 
 any precision the strain on the tackle, or, which is the same thing, 
 the pressure kept on the fish. The full force of this was now felt, 
 and whether I was pulling to the value of eight ounces or two 
 pounds, I could by no means divine. Unconsciously, perhaps, 
 remembering the fineness of the finger's length of gut on which the 
 dropper was tied, I was probably nearer the former than the latter 
 weight, so we got on slowly though surely. After all,' it was only a 
 question of time. Eunning my eyes along the shore whilst mechani- 
 cally keeping up a steady strain on the still powerful salmon, I 
 observed Willie seated on a stone, patiently waiting the end of the 
 struggle, which came to a conclusion about twenty minutes after- 
 wards by the red-faced brewer gaffing with timid deliberation a 
 short, well-made fish of 121b. This painfully protracted process 
 made me welcome my faithful follower warmly, who, however, 
 looked a little indignant at having been left behind, as he 
 pulled a quart bottle from the basket. '' The mistress bid me give 
 you your tea, and this piece of bread and butter, as you've had 
 none the mom. There's nothing so bad as being in too big a 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 207 
 
 hurry." Whether this was part of the message, or an original 
 remark, I thought it best not to inquire ; but as my friend hated all 
 irregular doings, and in especial such as involved the loss of breakfast^ 
 I conjectured it was a mild rebuke for unnecessarily tampering with 
 my digestion. 
 
 As we pulled against the gale I could not but admire the solitary 
 and savage scenery around the lake, where " hills peep o'er hills, and 
 Alps on Alps arise ;" but soon we were on the same cast we had left, 
 in order to take in our passenger, and in a few minutes afterwards 
 were fast in another good fish. When about half done, and sailing 
 soberly along some five feet below the surface, the dropper skimming 
 most invitingly over the wavelets, a fine trout rose and took it. 
 This at the moment was a huge delight, but presently the danger 
 became too real to be agreeable. Occasionally, like an ill-assorted 
 pair, they pulled opposite ways ; there was no keeping that last 
 person steady ; a more volatile individual I never saw sometimes 
 above, sometimes below his fellow-prisoner ; frequently behind, but 
 worse than all. more often before the exhausted salmon. How the 
 hook held so long was a wonder, but the parting moment drew near. 
 After a short race the trout made a bound over the water, tore the 
 hook from the jaw of the silvery log to which he was tied, and at 
 the same time obtained a fixed point, which enabled him to snap the 
 light thread which held him. How the rogues must have laughed 
 over our discomfiture. Short time was wasted in lamentation, and 
 before two minutes were passed damages were repaired, and " the 
 firm " was once more in full work. This was the last disaster of 
 the day ; henceforward all " went merry as a marriage bell," and 
 when evening settled down, our spoils might have set Mr. Groves up 
 for a day's business. We had five salmon, a dozen and a half of 
 white trout, and above a score of the coloured residents of the lake, 
 not one of which, by the way, exceeded 15oz. or 18oz. Some of the 
 trout were fine, one weighing over 51b., and another above 41b. ; and 
 of the salmon, the largest was the twelve-pounder which inaugurated 
 the sport of the day. 
 
 Too happy and too excited to sleep, I heard the fierce wind rave 
 
208 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 through the mountains with unspeakable delight ; and if for a 
 moment I dozed off, it was only to dream of fresh victories. About 
 xone the rain drove furiously against the windows, and filled up the 
 measure of my joy. With three hours for sleep before me I now 
 felt sure of the weather I sank into that dreamless oblivion which 
 yields such perfect rest. No alarum was needed to rouse me, and 
 at half -past-four, on descending the stairs, I found Willie, Jack, 
 Joyce, and the bilious man ready for a start. It has been before 
 observed that "early fishing" is seldom productive, and that the 
 best portion of the day for sport is from ten a.m. to three p.m. ; on 
 certain waters, however, I have often done very well about seven 
 o'clock, particularly at Lismore, the bridge of Ballyshannon, and the 
 pool on the beach at Waterville ; perhaps also Kylemore should be 
 added to the list. From half-past four to within a few minutes of 
 the favourable hour referred to, we only rose a few small lakers, but 
 presently afterwards the fun waxed fast and furious, and by eight 
 we had two salmon and seven white trout in the basket. 
 
 Feeling the necessity of food, we beached the boat and walked up 
 to the house, where, standing by the door, was a Saxon brother of 
 the rod, who, like ourselves, was staying at the inn. A more perse- 
 vering performer after breakfast I have rarely seen, but early rising 
 was his abomination ; if he ever felt disposed to make a vow against 
 what Prince Hal calls ''bed pressing," I am disposed to think he 
 meditated doing so that morning, when Jack Joyce and the bilious 
 party carried the well-stocked pannier past him into the kitchen. 
 There is a sort of malicious triumph that at such moments will 
 make itself felt, and I ushered our countryman in the salon shortly 
 after with increased stature and a dignity not always usual with me. 
 The meal was not a long one, yet that three-quarters of an hour 
 sufficed to change the aspect of the day, and converted storm into 
 calm, clouds into sunshine, and hope into despondency ; then I felt 
 repaid for the scores and scores of times I had risen for weeks 
 together with the sun, and received little for my labour. 
 
 It would have been vain even to hope for such another grand 
 break in the uniform glorious weather which so pre-eminently dis- 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN lEELAND. 209 
 
 tinguished this summer ; still, we fished with great perseverance, 
 always remaining on the lake whenever a chance existed, and stroll- 
 ing over the noble mountains on impracticable days. Our subsequent 
 spoi-t never came up to. or even near, that first recorded ; but we 
 generally got a salmon, sometimes two, with more or less trout, and 
 on the whole were abundantly satisfied with our doings in this very 
 exceptional season. That Kylemore is an excellent station from July 
 to October, there can be no doubt. "We must not say, " better 
 cannot be found ;" still, let there be the amount of wind and clouds 
 usual in ordinary years, and we maintain that few anglers will leave 
 this wild lake dissatisfied with their entertainment. As the car bore 
 us along its shores on the afternoon of our departure, I felt no small 
 regret at leaving a place where I had been so happy. With what 
 wonderful minuteness memory traced out every spot where victory 
 smiled or disaster attended me. I remember them now with 
 perfect exactness, and fancy that when they are forgotten there 
 will be few things I shall be able to recall at will. 
 
 The sun was sinking behind the mountains of Murrisk as we drove 
 up to the snug and unpretending hospitium at Leenane, near the 
 head of the Killeries. This beautiful inlet, of which so much has 
 been written, is a narrow and deep fiord running far inland, and 
 bounded on either side through its whole length by a lofty range, 
 as wild and picturesque as any to be found in the island. It is 
 nearly a mile in width, and though the hills rise sheer from the 
 water's edge, yet they fall off here and there, and discover wild 
 glens, savage ravines, and many a more distant peak beyond. On 
 the north-west bank lies Delphi, hid in the wilderness of Munisk, 
 not only the most secluded corner of Mayo, but probably the most 
 sequestered district in the three kingdoms, for the tourist rarely 
 invades it, and the wandering angler could find no accommodation 
 there. Everybody has heard of Delphi as an admirable station ; but, 
 like the Costello, few except the lessees know anything about it. 
 Several times in passing Leenane I vowed to cross the harbour and 
 view this mysterious elysium piscatorum, but something always 
 occurred to prevent the fulfilment of the vow, and when at length 
 
 P 
 
210 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 it was accomplislied no words of mine can describe it half so well as 
 Inglis has done years ago : 
 
 A short half-hour sufficed to put me across, and stepping ashore in a little 
 cove opposite to a wide mountain hollow I followed the path which was pointed 
 out to me. About a mile from the shore I reached the entrance to the moun- 
 tain hollow, and another mile into the heart of it brought me to the neighbour- 
 hood of Delphi. The lodge itself is not any way remarkable, but its situation 
 is. It lies in a deep recess among the mountains, which rise lofty and abrupt 
 on all sides excepting one, whei-e there is a little lake, along whose margin 
 winds the road to the house. The immediate neighbourhood of the house is 
 well wooded, and abundance of sweet-smelling flowers made an odorous 
 atmosphere around. It is certainly a tranquil and singular spot." 
 
 Inglis was no angler, or he could not have dismissed " the little 
 lake near the house" with so slight a notice, for, unless I make a 
 great mistake, it offers about the best white trout fishing in the 
 kingdom. The river below is rather more than two miles in length, 
 and in high water affords admirable sport. In the lodge an anchorite 
 ijiight find himself comfortable in the matter of solitude. Hemmed 
 in on one side by the deep and dark water of the fiord, and on the 
 other, shut out from the world by miles and miles of mountain and 
 swamp, the proprietors enjoy the most undisturbed piscatorial 
 domain to be found within the four seas of Britain. Knowing none 
 of the dwellers in this happy land, nor having any letters of intro- 
 duction, my power of obtaining trustworthy infoimation was so 
 small that I contented myself with looking at river and lakes, and 
 imagining the glorious spawning-beds lying far off in many a soli- 
 tary valley among the pathless mountains of Murrisk. Eight or ten 
 years ago this fishery was said to hold the finest white, trout in 
 Ireland, and I have heai^d of their being taken here up to the extra- 
 ordinary weight of 161b. Since that time no doubt the stock 
 has improved most of the waters in the island have advanced in 
 different degrees, certainly few, if jiny, have retrograded ; and 
 Delphi, which retained such a reputation in the darkest days of the 
 Irish rivers, ought now to be good indeed. 
 
 The Errive, a stream without any lacustrine head, after a consi- 
 derable course falls into the head of the Killeries. The lodge 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN lEELAND. 211 
 
 belonging to the river is one of the most comfortable in Ireland, and 
 its situation is excellent. , Placed at the mouth of the Errive, it 
 enjoys a noble view down the inlet, and is alike suited to command 
 fresh-water angling, boating, or sea-fishing. This river is now in 
 the market. I knew it when rented by a most amiable and warm- 
 hearted nobleman, who, with his accustomed kindness, made me free 
 of the water. As ill-luck would have it, I was then returning from 
 a month's inimitable angling, and a month's nearly absolute starva- 
 tion, in the wildest nook of Mayo, during which time I endured great 
 toil coupled with constant wet, and the upshot was that, on the 
 second morning of my sojourn at Leenane, I was so ill that I could 
 hardly stand, and was glad to make the best of my way to Galway 
 and lay up for three or four days. 
 
 It was a long drive between Leenane and Westport, over a tole- 
 rably level track, rich in wild flowers, and boasting some of the most 
 gigantic boulders I ever saw, under whose shelter the Menziesia 
 polifolia attained its maximum of size and beauty. But though the 
 journey was long we got it over at an early hour, by dint of starting 
 in what Mr. Willie profanely called to his too confiding mistress 
 ** the middle of the night." Still this very matutinal start enabled 
 us, after having deposited bag and baggage at the hotel, to 
 be clear of the last cabin of Westport, on our way to the Reek, soon 
 after noon. I am not one to jest at sincerity, or smile in affected 
 pity at those who worship our common Father in a different fonn or 
 with another tongue. It was in no such idle spirit that we stood on 
 the summit of Croagh Patrick, gazing alternately on the labyrinth 
 of mountains and lakes which make up Murrisk, the hundred isles 
 which deck Clew Bay, or the crowd of devotees performing their 
 devotions on this great "high place." Some were prostrate in 
 silent adoration ; others knelt at the various stations round the 
 stony cairns ; all performed their rounds on bare feet, a few on bare 
 knees. But there was one person, a priest, who enlisted my 
 sympathy amazingly. When JI first noticed him he was limping 
 slowly and painfully roimd one of " the stations," carrying his shoes 
 and stockings in either hand, whilst his trousers were tucked up in 
 
 p 2 
 
212 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 the vain hope of cooling his blistered and bleeding feet. The poor 
 father was evidently an admirer of nature, for slung over his broad 
 shoulders was a large old-fashioned glass, which soon brought us 
 into the most friendly relations. " Maybe the lady would like to 
 look at the say and the islands beyant ? Ah ! well ; perhaps you 
 would lake it," offering me the rejected telescope, and adjusting his 
 own particular focus with great care ; in fact, the worthy divine was 
 dying for a chat, and an excuse to pause on the stony road to repen- 
 tance. I found him the most kindly and simple of human beings. 
 He informed me he had left his cure for a few days' change, and 
 fancied that the air, scenery, and devotional exercises on the summit 
 of the Eeek were likely to produce an equally sanitary effect on body 
 and soul. In half an hour we became great friends. " Ask him to 
 dinner," whispered Madame, who was evidently much taken with 
 him. On inquiry, I found that his religious duties would be over in 
 half an hour, and that his way lay through Westport, so I plucked 
 up courage and begged the favour of his company ; this he kindly 
 promised, and I am bound to say I have seldom spent a more 
 pleasant evening. The day had been a long one, but was not yet 
 over. After we had seen the good priest mount his car and trot 
 slowly away, we started for Newport, whither Willie under the 
 special care of his sister had been sent on some hours previously to 
 obtain a lodging which we once before occupied when fishing this 
 district. A quarter of a mile outside the little town, which poor 
 Maxwell calls ''the ultima thule of civilised Europe," I found my 
 faithful comrade seated on a turf bank patiently waiting my arrival. 
 
 " Where have you left Mary ?" 
 
 " Up in the big house, sir." 
 
 " What house ? Have you not taken the one we had before ?" 
 
 "No. The new curate has took it for six months certain ;" and 
 then, in a stage whisper to his mistress, " the drawing-room, mum, 
 is as big as a church and as empty as a bara," and Mary says, 
 " you'll be lost in it intirely." 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBELAND. 213 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 The Big House Head-quarters at Newport Advantages of our Position in 
 Wet and Dry Weather Newport River Burrishoole, Tyrena Pleasant 
 Dreams Michael O'Leary's Board Early Start An Inn amongst the 
 Mountains Breakfast A Day after my own Heart, the Dawn of which is 
 only shown in the present Chapter. 
 
 September 8. 
 Could Dominie Sampson have been ushered into our new quarters, 
 doubtless his first exclamation would have been ''Prodigious ! " On 
 a table near the fire flickered a pair of wretched candles, making 
 darkness visible ; in the grate a smouldering pile of peat emitted a 
 cloud of smoke, together with a faint light, so faint indeed that the 
 whole of the great room, except the portion immediately round the 
 hearth, was as dark as the sky in a starless, moonless night. A 
 score of Fenians might have been Im'king in the shadowy corners. 
 I felt all the depressing influence of the mysterious and the unknown. 
 A vague sense of uneasiness was creeping over me ; I tried to shake 
 it off, and lit a pipe by my own fireside ; but the huge rusty bars 
 seemed never to have heard of the sweet charities of home, and the 
 rude but spirited carving below the mantel-piece looked so strange 
 and weird in the uncertain light that I began to feel in very uncanny 
 company. In fact, I was fast getting into a highly nervous state. 
 Anything was better than being hagridden in this fashion, so, seizing 
 one of the candles, I set off on a journey of exploration. Holding 
 the " dip " high above my head, I was able to see that a handsome 
 cornice ran round the walls, and that the centre of the ceiling was 
 ornamented with a rich and beautiful design, a portion of which had 
 fallen, perhaps in the midst of some wild revel. On the floor were 
 three or four tattered pieces of carpet, in strong contrast to each 
 other as regarded pattern and colour, whilst the furniture consisted 
 of a few chairs, and a table so diminutive that it showed like a 
 fragment of wreck floating on the wide sea. Altogether there was 
 
214 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 an air of mournful grandeur and ruined magnificence about tlie 
 place which was quite oppressive. It seemed haunted by the ghosts 
 of former occupants. The night air, sighing through chink and 
 rathole, sounded like the wailings of too late repentance for riot and 
 misrule. The rooms on the ground floor formed a shop, wherein, 
 resting against the counter, was the proprietor of the mansion, the 
 most melancholy man that ever kept a store. Whether he was on 
 the eve of bankruptcy, whether he was the last of the race who had 
 revelled there, or whether he was doing penance on earth for the 
 sins of his forefathers, I never inquired, for the poor fellow's case 
 was evidently beyond the reach of my art. What that shop contained 
 I never could learn, and the townspeople apparently knew as little 
 as I did, for, during a sojourn of three weeks, I did not hear of a 
 single customer darkening his door. In fact, " the store " was a 
 mystery, for no man could have decided with certainty to what class 
 it belonged. On a long range of dusty shelves reposed eight or ten 
 large bottles and jars, which gave the establishment something the 
 appearance of a chemist's gone to seed. Manifold little drawers, 
 too, were there, labelled "pepper," "mustard," "sugar," but "all 
 was seeming, nought was truth," for bottles and jars were empty, 
 and the spice depot was filled with rusty nails, broken china, a 
 prodigious number of damaged corkscrews, and all sorts of odds and 
 ends. It was clear the owner was neither grocer, druggist, nor iron- 
 monger, and observation left the mystery more mysterious still. In 
 short, it was the ghost of a shop ; everything therein was airy and 
 impalpable, and the proprietor of the empty jars, paper bags, and 
 crazy shelves seemed like a ticket-of -leave man from the silent shores 
 of the river Styx. 
 
 In the Newport district the best fishing is absolutely dependent on 
 rain. When we left Kylemore, Admiral Fitzroy's glass showed signs 
 of a coming change, and the crystals floating still higher in the 
 fluid at Leenane caused our hurried march from that pleasant 
 hostelry. Still the sky was blue, the mountain tops clear, the wind 
 as uns3mipathising as it had been of late, and now, as I looked out 
 of my great desolate chamber and saw an unclouded arch, " all 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN lEELAND. 215 
 
 throbbing and panting with stars," I felt that even my friend Fitz 
 had proved faithless. 
 
 As a " head centre " Newport offers capital autumn quarters. 
 Close to the town flows a little river, with many good deep pools 
 and a fair stock of fish. A short distance to the westward the road 
 crosses a long bridge, through whose arches flow the surplus waters 
 of Burrishoole Lake, where angling can always be enjoyed of 
 course irrespective of rain and a few miles farther brings the 
 tourist to Tyrena, which needs description. Some seasons since 
 Colonel Gore, to whom the district at that time belonged, . most 
 kindly gave me permission to fish the water. I reached it late in 
 the season, during a week of incessant rain, and enjoyed such sport 
 as ever after placed Tyrena in my most affectionate remembrances. 
 This brook, from its source half way up the mountain side to its 
 debouchment into Clew Bay, cannot exceed, if it reaches, a length of 
 three miles. It flows through probably the wettest moss in Ireland, 
 yet with twelve hours' fine weather its bed becomes dry, a few black 
 boggy holes excepted. But in Mayo, happily, the sky is much given 
 to weeping, when the morasses, always saturated, instantly begin to 
 overflow, pouring into the watercourses a black deluge, and in an 
 hour or two afterwards the ton-ent is full of splendid white trout. 
 Not only is this mountain rill an angling wonder, but it is one of 
 the most instructive in the country. Fancy a stream of only three 
 miles ! Why, there are thousands of despised brooks in the three 
 kingdoms of thrice this length which are absolutely valueless, all of 
 which are, however, capable of being made equal to Tyrena. If a 
 man has but water he can have fish, as surely as a cottager possessed 
 of a few square yards of ground can gi'ow cabbages. But this is 
 not quite the place to discuss or enforce fish culture, more especially 
 as it has just been done far better than I can hope to do it ; so I 
 will recapitulate the advantages of Newport as an autumn quarter 
 for anyone blessed, as I was, in the possession of angling powers, 
 and then go to rest. If the weather be fine the sportsman has 
 Burrishoole. During the fall of a fresh, and some days after- 
 wards, the Beltra is sure to yield sport, and in wet weather 
 
216 A YEAR OF liberty; oe, 
 
 there is the best brook of its size in the kingdom to be found at 
 Tyrena. 
 
 Except my landlord, a more melancholy gentleman than myself 
 that night never laid his head on the pillow ; nevertheless, worn out 
 with a long and rather laborious day, I soon fell asleep. After a 
 while Queen Mab drove her dreamy chariot through my brain. I 
 was in an auction mart, and constrained by some mysterious 
 influence to bid frantically for every lot. Nine gorgeous parrot 
 cages were knocked down to me. A tenement in Bow Street next 
 became mine, under a penalty of lOOZ. per annum if I failed to 
 reside therein seven months in each year. Then I was made the 
 happy possessor of a cradle and four children's cots. How wretched 
 I felt. Parrots were my aversion ; an enforced residence in Bow 
 Street was an abomination ; and what had I to do with babies ? I 
 could not have held, far less have nursed, one to save my life. 
 But another lot is up. Hark at that remorseless " Going, going, 
 gone!" "With that light rap the nightmare agony reached its 
 climax, and I awoke. What can that noise be ? There was a sound 
 as if twenty thousand hammers were beating the uncomplaining 
 earth. Intelligence slowly returned. Can it be ? Yes ; now I 
 recognise the well-known sound. It is it is a perfect deluge of 
 rain. Eagerly I struck a light ; only three ff.m. How the torrent 
 poured and poured. There was not an air ; nothing but one dull 
 and incessant thud thud thud. If I lit one match in the next 
 hour and a half, I lit ten. At last the long hand stood at six, and 
 the short hand midway between four and five ; and then, springing 
 out of bed, I dressed at full speed, hurried down stairs, and so out 
 into the dawn and the rain. Not a soul was stirring ; the ducks 
 and I had the whole of the steep street to ourselves. The Beltra, 
 so pellucid last evening, was now dark and turbid, and two rival 
 torrents were leaping and foaming down either side of the street. 
 But rain is a fisherman's fine weather ; trusty boots and an oiled 
 coat formed garments of proof ; and I was as much at ease under 
 the pitiless pelting as my web-footed companions. No Irish village 
 wants either horse or car, yet now I looked in vain for an announce- 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 217 
 
 ment of these desirable things. As usual, the blessing sought lay 
 close to my door, and had been overlooked. On my return I found 
 it. Near our palace was a narrow court or passage, at the end of 
 which was a car standing on end, with the shafts in the air, getting 
 the unaccustomed luxury of a good wash. Nearer inspection showed 
 me a small board, nearly a foot square, of a flaming yellow, with 
 some extraordinary obsolete vehicle painted thereon, attached to 
 which was the picture of a wonderful animal belonging to a species 
 now extinct. 
 
 A few steps brought me to the house. " Tommy, Tommy O'Boyle ! 
 Hollo, Tommy O'Boyle !" A portentous snore was the only reply. 
 Bow-wow-wow was the answer to a few hearty kicks on the door. 
 
 " Nick, ye villan, lave the pigs alone." 
 
 Kick kick kick, bow-wow- wow, performed in true classic strophe 
 and antistrophe, at last awoke the owner of the patent safety 
 vehicle. Nick's invocation, joined with my own, had been somewhat 
 potent, and Mr. O'Boyle suddenly appeared in a suit of primitive 
 buff, tastefully overlaid with a white tunic, called by the vulgar a 
 shirt. On the advent of his master, Nick kindly pardoned my too 
 early call, and, being a dog of practical mind, improved the occasion 
 by making a light and cheap breakfast by licking the grease off my 
 boots. 
 
 " Could I go at once to Tyrena ? " 
 
 " Is it a kar yer honour '11 be wanting this fine momin'?" observed 
 Mr. O'Boyle, with a pleasant smile. 
 
 " Of course. What else can I want ? " 
 
 "I'm thinking it's to Pat's yer goin'. Fait, I'll be wid ye 
 immadiately." 
 
 " The coachman " was as good as his word, and by the time I had 
 roused up my servant he drove to the door and we were off. 
 
 Mile after mile we sped on towards Tyrena over barren wastes. 
 The peat bog through which we moved, with its blackened surface 
 and dark piles of dried fuel, heaped in immense mounds and cast in 
 every variety of form and size, bore a fanciful resemblance to a city 
 consumed by fire. Everything looked charred. It seemed as if the 
 
218 A YEAB OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 element had done its work effectually, leaving nothing but discoloured 
 walls and blasted earth. The scene grew more and more wild 
 as we advanced ; bleak and sterile mountains without a trace of 
 cultivation ; dark valleys and tracts of morass dripping from the 
 recent rains ; whilst from every hollow, rivulets blackened with bog- 
 water dashed across the road and threatened to stop our farther 
 progress. Below lay Clew Bay, with its many islets decking the 
 sparkhng waters. Beyond rose the Eeek, its lofty cone catching 
 the light clouds as they drifted from the ocean. Far in the distance 
 towered the highland ranges of Connemara, with the twelve pins of 
 Bunabola, and the bold cliffs of Clare Island ; whilst before us 
 stretched the Atlantic, rolling onwards to the beach with a long 
 and measured swell. 
 
 Making sweet music on the lonely shore. 
 
 ^' Here's the place," observed our driver, pulling up suddenly before 
 a cabin situated on the edge of the bog at a little distance from the 
 road. " Here's the hotel, and the best, too, any way from this to 
 Belturbet." 
 
 Now, Belturbet lay some thirty-two miles off, and in declaring Pat's 
 the best hospitium within that space, Mr. O'Boyle for once spoke the 
 truth, for it was the only one. 
 
 Leaning against the door was a slight active peasant, with a 
 round bullet-shaded head, close curling hair, and eyes as quick 
 and wandering as ever shone in human orbits. If Pat be not the 
 most restless spirit in creation, there is no reliance to be placed 
 on eyes. 
 
 Well aware, from the rapid rise and fall of the waters of Tyi-ena, 
 that if we expected sport we must remain on the ground and take 
 advantage of every shower, we decided on securing such accommo- 
 dation as Pat's domicile afforded. The exterior of the cottage 
 certainly did not promise much. The kitchen was a fair sample of 
 those usually found in the better class of Mayo farmhouses ; on the 
 lime-ash floor children were playing and pigs sleeping ; moreover, 
 there were ducks, geese, and fowls, two cats, an outdoor farm boy, 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 219 
 
 and the hostess, all waiting for their common breakfast a few stone 
 of potatoes which were successfully progressing under the super- 
 intendence of a very pretty girl, daughter to the said hostess. The 
 state room was placed on the left of the common apartment, and, in 
 the opinion of the good people of this primitive district, was fur- 
 nished with every luxury man could desire. It contained a bed, 
 table, two chairs, and a three-legged stool, all admirably uniform in 
 colour bed, bedding, floor, chairs, and table, being of a dull choco- 
 late hue from the accumulated dirt of years. One would have 
 conceived from their appearance that water was as scarce and 
 valuable a commodity in this locality, as in the great desert of 
 Sahara. It seemed' impossible to remain, and I hinted as much 
 to Willie, who, with a cool unconcerned air, desperately provoking at 
 such a time, was trying to look through the dirty windows. 
 
 "Lave it to me, sir," was his reply. "When you and Pat come 
 back from taking a walk up the river, see if breakfast an't ready and 
 iverything snug and comfortable." 
 
 With all reliance on the speaker's versatile genius, I had little hope 
 of his being able to fulfil his promise. 
 
 The little river was in a terrible taking from the rain foaming, 
 fretting, chafing, and leaping over rocks and stones, hurling along 
 huge fragments of turf, and behaving altogether in a very turbulent 
 and headstrong manner. It was, moreover, nearly as black as ink, and 
 had I been put on my oath I should with a quiet conscience have 
 sworn it would be impracticable for the next two days. Pat was, 
 however, of a different opinion, and employed himself as we walked 
 along in setting up various hydrometers of a primitive construction, 
 consisting of a series of twigs placed in the sand at the edge of the 
 stream. 
 
 As far as the eye could range not even a hut was in sight. Before 
 us the Morne Tomas mountains formed a glorious amphitheatre, and 
 from Carrig-a-Binniogh (the loftiest of the group) rose the stream 
 whose course we were following. Midway up its side the brook had 
 its source, was instantly joined by a hundred little rills, and soon in 
 considerable volume rushed down its sides with a voice of thunder 
 
220 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; Ofi, 
 
 and in a robe of snow. From this point to the sea its whole length 
 did not exceed three miles. As we returned, Pat's divining rods 
 gave the welcome assurance that the water had attained for the 
 present its utmost limits. It had ceased to rise, and in an hour would 
 be in order. 
 
 If Pat hardly knew his own house, it was no wonder I failed 
 to recognise it. The hostess appeared to have yielded absolute 
 submission to the Saxon ; to have calmly resigned her sceptre, 
 relinquished the cares of state, and retired for ever from the 
 turmoil of public life. I can hardly help laughing now at the 
 aspect of affairs on our return. The spirit of reform was in full 
 activity, and the innovations in Mrs. M'Hale's dominions were 
 alarming. WilHe, in a huge pair of fishing-boots, was paddling 
 over the streaming floors, steering his way successfully through an 
 intricate mass of buckets, tubs, and boxes of sand ; trotting from 
 one part of the room to the other, all the while encouraging, 
 exhorting, and directing the labours of half a dozen old ladies, who, 
 under the unusual stimulus of a shilling a head, were working with 
 praiseworthy industry. Beds, bedsteads, and bedding had vanished. 
 Whether the colony which inhabited those ancient settlements had 
 transported themselves and their homes to a quieter shore I never 
 inquired, having no doubt of the physical capacity of those indus- 
 trious insects to have walked off with the furniture at any moment. 
 Chairs, tables, and stools were enjoying the unwonted luxury of a 
 bath in a little lake beside the house, waiting patiently till the 
 ladies had leisure to shampoo them. Floors were rapidly assuming 
 their pristine whiteness, windows were cleaned, doors washed, walls 
 swept, and in a corner was a pile of blooming heath, a couch for a 
 king. There had not been such a demand for labour in the district 
 in the memory of man. Mrs. M'Hale stood by the fire in a state 
 of such utter bewilderment as to be wholly incapable of giving 
 assistance or framing a remonstrance, staring in dull astonishment 
 as each of her chattels walked in or out of the establishment, or 
 presented itself to her wondering gaze in some new garb. In short, 
 it seemed as if the whole furniture was bent on a masking 
 
BALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 221 
 
 frolic, and a levee m masse collected to deck them out for the 
 fete. 
 
 ** Bedad, your honour," observed Pat, who had all the while been 
 standing on his own threshold with a puzzled air and a humorous 
 smile on his extraordinary countenance, " Bedad, your honour, next 
 time we clean house you shall have it rint free for a fortnight." 
 The indefatigable steward had forgotten no single point. On a 
 flowery knoll a clean cloth was spread, and the fair Margaret busy 
 in culinary preparations. Oh, the luxurious happiness of that 
 humble meal ! A plate of oatmeal porridge, a pile of potatoes, a 
 slice of rye bread, and a cup of delicious coffee, brought by my 
 provident comrade, formed the entire carte; but time, place, and 
 circumstances lent a gusto that all the sauces of Lazenby or art of 
 Soyer could not have afforded ; and seating myself on the fragrant 
 cushion nature gave, with the sparkling waters of Clew Bay before 
 me, the majesty of Mome Tomas above me, the murmuring river 
 at my feet, I ate, laughed, and drank as if life had no sorrow, and 
 the world no care. 
 
 "With his pockets full of potatoes just removed from the pot Pat 
 steamed into our breakfast parlour, and, without a word, led the 
 way down the knoll. The stream, dark and turbid, swept furiously 
 through the inistic arches of the bridge which supports the Achill 
 road. About twenty yards above this point the brook turned at a 
 sharp angle, forming a most tempting pool, the eligibility of the 
 spot being further increased by a huge fragment of granite, which 
 broke the current, sending it off in two long rippling lines. All 
 this was seen at a single glance as I stood on the bank, striking the 
 line from the rod, previous to making the first cast. Scarcely had 
 the fly touched the water when a quick dash showed there was 
 game afoot ; soon the line was again flying towards the opposite 
 bank ; in another second there was an eager rise, and we could just 
 see a heavy trout well hooked shoot off into the boiling torrent. 
 Just then the tail fly swept past the rock, and was instantly taken 
 by a small salmon of seven or eight pounds. The strain of the 
 tackle was tremendous, and the fish, now in full current, were 
 
222 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 settling bodily towards the bridge ; the danger was imminent ; in 
 fact, the only chance of success lay in bringing them again within 
 the eddy. Once the object seemed nearly attained, when a heavy 
 lunge of the largest fish again hurried both in the centre of the 
 stream. Inch by inch they neared the bridge. Pat danced before 
 us like a frantic dervish ; ten men would have been unable to 
 execute his contradictory orders ; and my faithful follower, feeling 
 the case hopeless, was silent. Stones were hurled into the raging 
 flood, and produced as much effect as so many rain drops ; in vain 
 we endeavoured to tuni every eddy, every stone to our advantage. 
 The leading fish was within a foot of the centre pier. Now for a 
 last effort ; the good rod, already bent double, was still further 
 pressed, when a sharp crack announced it had been taxed beyond 
 endurance, at the same instant the fish entered separate arches, the 
 casting line crossed the pier, snapped, and I, like the miller's maid, 
 was left lamenting. Fortunately the catastrophe was not irreparable ; 
 an idler was forthwith dispatched to the cabin for a second rod, with 
 which he returned by the time I had extracted a fresh casting line 
 from the book. In a few minutes we were again at work, and at 
 once commenced doing a very pretty business, as will be faithfully 
 shown in the following chapter. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXII. 
 
 A Day after my own Heart Dinner by Proxy The Spoils Night 
 Pat redivivus. 
 
 September 16. 
 Pat led the way through the swamp, pushing on from pool to pool 
 more rapidly than we deemed advisable, certainly far faster than we 
 should have done had we been left to our own guidance in this the 
 deepest morass in the kingdom. Every point at which he paused, 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 223 
 
 however, held a rising fish or two, and as the trout were remarkably 
 fine, the basket suspended by a hayband round his neck soon became 
 heavy. 
 
 If satiety be the death of enjoyment, novelty lends it fresh life, 
 and here everything was new. A brook, the width of which hardly 
 exceeded half the length of my rod, a mountain torrent of black 
 water rushing down the glen, and a savage wilderness whose recesses 
 still held a remnant of the original red deer, all helped to heighten 
 the charm ; and then Pat was so polite that it was as much as I 
 could do to keep pace with his courtesy. No sooner was a flat 
 lightly fished over once, than my obliging attendant relieved me of 
 the rod and trotted on as hard as he could go to the next lodge, 
 which he usually contrived to get half through before I came up. 
 On one of these occasions, having succeeded in catching him, I held 
 out my hand for my property ; the usurper did not actually refuse, 
 but said, with a feeling I at once recognised and respected, " Yer 
 honour, I ris him three times, and, Mary, wam't he king of the 
 trouts ! The crathur's tin pounds if he's an ounce." And he cast 
 an imploring glance at my face, in hope, perhaps, of finding some 
 trace of brotherly love and charity. I understood the appeal. " Try 
 him again, Pat ; he's yours if you get him." I had not seen the 
 fish, nor did I believe him to be anything like the size stated, or my 
 self-denial might have been less heroic, as I watched the impulsive 
 party hurl his fly right at the head of the enemy. How I regretted 
 my rash promise as a magnificent fish flashed under the gaudy lure. 
 
 "It must be a salmon, Pat." 
 
 " A salmon ! No, no ! A salmon, yer honour ? Don't I know a 
 briddawn when I see one ? He's a trout, sir, I'm telling ye." 
 
 This was said with considerable asperity. With some difficulty 
 we persuaded Mr. M'Hale to be calm and rest on his oars for a 
 minute, at the expiration of which the line once more flew over the 
 water, and before the fly had sailed a couple of feet, the same fish 
 dashed up and took it. The first desperate leap showed him nearly 
 all that Pat had stated him to be, and the second bound, landing 
 him high and dry on the bank, gave us full opportunity to admire 
 
224 A YEAR OF libeety; or, 
 
 the finest trout that ever died under m}^ rod, though unhappily not 
 by my hand. With a diminutive head, high shoulder, deep side, 
 and a weight of 8-^lb., what a beauty he was. and what a warning 
 against making rash promises ! 
 
 From hag to hag Pat again bounded over the bog, the enormous 
 basket with which he had provided himself bumping against his 
 shoulders in a manner truly perplexing. Now this basket, which 
 had for some time been attracting my attention, was nothing more 
 nor less than a horse-pannier, a machine much in vogue in this 
 cartless country, being in fact the only recognised mode of conveying 
 the crop from the field or the turf from the bog ; as for filling it, 
 that was surely an impossibility ; it could hardly, therefore, be said 
 to have been brought out exclusively for use, neither could it exactly 
 be considered ornamental. Had Mr. M'Hale's versatile genius 
 suggested its employment, in order to impress on the minds of two 
 luckless foreigners the famed qualities of the water ? or was it only 
 to be considered as an exaggerated allegorical emblem of plenty a 
 species of piscatorial cornucopia? No matter look at it how I 
 would, there was comfort in it. 
 
 The meeting of the waters was a pretty spot ; for a few hundred 
 yards before their junction they ran murmuring on, gradually 
 approaching each other, parted only by a low narrow slip of land, 
 sweet from the breath of the Myrica gale ; then, like lovers long 
 parted, they hurried into each other's embrace, rushed joyously over 
 a ledge of rocks, and mingled their waters in a pretty granite basin. 
 Here for a few minutes we were unsuccessful ; at the lower end of 
 the pool the water became more shallow, and there a salmon dashed 
 at the fly, but turned short as if disappointed ; a second and a third 
 rise followed in rapid succession. " Oh ! Terry, Terry, I fear your 
 handiwork is anything but what it should be." On the morning of 
 our leaving Ballina the said Terry had given me parting advice and 
 a parting gift. The gift consisted of a dozen flies, carefully done up in 
 brown paper ; the advice was, to hover near Tyrena, and pounce down 
 on the river the moment the weather broke up. Whilst mournfully 
 inspecting Mr. Diver's donation, my meditations were rudely interrupted. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 225 
 
 " Don't stand looking at the casting line, yer honour," observed 
 Pat, *' but cover him again there you have him !" 
 
 Mr. M'Hale was wrong, however ; it was no salmon, though a fair 
 substitute for one, tuniing out when netted to be a white trout of 
 51b. I had now an opportunity of examining, more closely than I 
 had hitherto done, the articles with which Teny had provided us. 
 
 " Did ever man see the like," remarked Pat. " I'd not wonder if 
 the maker had caught a rainbow and given you a handful gold, 
 green, blue, crimson, yellow, violet, and orange," continued he, 
 reading one of the despised articles from tail to shoulder ; " divil 
 such a thing ever I see." 
 
 In fact, the flies were rather remarkable, and deserve description ; 
 so, whilst Pat is extracting the hook from the jaw of the trout, we 
 will examine our stock. Whether shade, shape, or steel be con- 
 sidered, never were twelve more unpromising specimens. The hooks, 
 remarkably fine in the wire, inordinately long in the shank, and very 
 small in the bend, were of a kind sometimes used in trout-fishing 
 for taking full-length likenesses of the palmer family, and, as if such 
 ridiculous implements were not already three times too long, Terry 
 had bedecked each with a topping by way of tail. But the bodies 
 ah ! there lay the core and marrow of my grief ; they would have 
 exhausted the patience of a saint, but nearly drove a sinner like 
 myself stark mad, as they lay glittering before me in an endless 
 variety of short joints, composed of the brightest and most opposite 
 coloured floss, relieved here and there with a patch of gold or 
 silver. No hackle shaded these naked beauties, unless a single turn 
 of jay at the head could be considered as a sort of ballet equivalent 
 for the ordinary garb in which salmon flies are wont to appear ; and 
 even this poor apology was more than half obscured by the long 
 turkey wing. Strictly speaking, they looked like nothing on the earth 
 or under the water ; and though Pat's idea of their resembling so 
 many inch stripes of consolidated rainbow might give some faint 
 notion of their general appearance, to my fancy they seemed more 
 like a group of harlequins with yellow tails and long brown coats. 
 To expect sport with such flies, Pat declared utterly impossible ; the 
 
 Q 
 
226 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 book was hasstily looked over, and a small orange silk body, grouse 
 backle, and owl's wing selected as point, wMlst a golden olive trout- 
 fly was elected to the office of dropper. 
 
 The good effects of the change were soon apparent, and every 
 pool became the scene of a fresh triumph. This was too good to 
 last. The mist which had been lying all the morning in heavy 
 masses on the crest of Carrig-a-Binniogh began now to wear a more 
 threatening aspect ; even to an inexperienced eye it looked ominous. 
 Pat knew its import well. *' Yer honour's sport is nearly over for the 
 present ; there's a lump o' rain about to fall on the mountain, and 
 the flood will be on us afore ye can try the three next pools." 
 
 This additional stimulus was not required. The wild glen, the 
 tall mountains, the dark torrent, and the stern and lonely character 
 of the scene all conspired to fill me with enthusiasm. The enjoy- 
 ment was no longer of that tranquil kind so faithfully depicted by 
 honest Izaak and his follwers ; it had grown a fierce and eager 
 passion. But three more pools ! Could fate be so cruel ? On we 
 dashed to make the most of the brief space which remained. The 
 three pools mentioned by Pat were the most tempting I had seen for 
 the day. No sooner had the fly lit on the water than a small 
 trout under 21b. marked it for his own, and was soon safely stowed 
 with his kindred in the pannier. He had hardly disturbed the 
 water away flew the fly, again it was seized, and this time by a 
 larger fish. Bearing heavily on the tackle, I snatched a hurried 
 glance at the mountain which seemed to tower almost immediately 
 .above us. The cloud had burst, and its contents were leaping 
 towards the glen in a thousand petty channels, rapidly uniting, and 
 then thuiidering on with increased speed and volume. Heavier and 
 heavier the line was strained on the struggling captive, till he neared 
 the surface, and was dexterously netted before half his energies were 
 exhausted. 
 
 " Hooroo ! ^hooroo ; there's time for another ; go it yer honour 1" 
 
 Suiting the action to the word, my excited companion sped away 
 towards a point some fifty yards ahead. A 51b. trout floundering in 
 the net, and resisting all Pat's attempts to extract the hook, sadly 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN EBELAND. 227 
 
 impeded his frantic efforts to reach the pool before the flood, which 
 could be seen too plainly not a hundred yards above, speeding 
 towards us with ruffled crest and angry voice. Pat still kept the 
 lead by a few strides, intent only on hurrying on, and unmindful of 
 the old saw, "look before you leap," he set his foot on a more than 
 ordinarily soft part of the bog, and at the next bound was fairly 
 planted deep at his waistcoat pocket. Plunging desperately forward, 
 he gained a momentary footing on a tuft of rushes, lost his vantage 
 ground, and rolled helplessly into the quagmire. His fall broke the 
 light gut of the dropper, which was still firm in the jaw of the fish ; 
 and the line drifted clear of the net as it fell from Pat's hand. A 
 slight bend to the left afforded firmer footing, and in a second I was 
 at the goal. The flood was filling a pool not twenty yards from the 
 one at which I stood again and again the fly swept across the 
 surface. " What, not another ere it comes ?" Once more the line 
 flew over the lower part of the lodge a dull ruffle followed. A 
 salmon ! a salmon ! Huzza! I have him. 
 
 On rushed the flood carrying all before it. The strong fish breasted 
 it for a few seconds, but, impeded by the line, shot rapidly round 
 and darted down the torrent like an arrow. To give line was to 
 lose him ; for brushwood, rushes, and turf sods were whirling along 
 in wild disorder, thick as leaves in June. The narrow course of the 
 brook, its numerous abrupt turnings, and the luxuriant growth of 
 heath and whin that fringed its banks, made it a work of sufficient 
 difficulty to keep the line clear, short as it was, so I pelted full tilt 
 over bog, rock, and heath as well as I could. Fast and furious grew 
 the race 'twas for life or death. Of Pat I thought not ^nay, for 
 the time, forgot that such a person ever existed. 
 
 Splash, splash, splash. Can it be the echo of my own steps ? Had 
 existence depended on it, I could not have avoided turning nervously 
 in the direction of the sound ; and what a sight met my eyes ! Minus 
 his hat and boots, the big trout flourished in one hand, and the net 
 brandished in the other, his whole person dripping from the late 
 immersion, and his face a bright Modena tint from the colour of the 
 bog, Pat sped like a gallant knight to the rescue, 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 Two to one are long odds ; the fisli could hardly hold his own 
 before, and now my comrade's opportune arrival soon settled the 
 contest. The salmon, utterly exhausted, floundered towards the 
 bank ^his hour was come ; helpless and motionless he was lifted 
 into the net and borne off by Pat, who had just breath enough to 
 exclaiiii : 
 
 " Quick, quick, yer honour ; now for the shelter, any way !" 
 
 The rain descended in torrents; the very windows of heaven 
 seemed open. The little river was by no means a pleasant neigh- 
 bour, but roared and reeled along like a drunkard. As Pat subse- 
 quently observed, " She had just taken a drop too much." 
 
 In the morning I had been inclined to despise Mr. M'Hale's 
 castle ; but now, as I passed over the threshold out of the pelting 
 rain, and beheld a goodly array of three-legged iron pots, odorous of 
 dinner, it rose marvellously in my estimation. In the great chamber 
 a block of bogwood blazed cheerfully, and by its light we were 
 enabled to lay out our drenched tackle, and make some slight 
 preparations for dinner. These were scarcely completed when 
 Willie, with a very broad grin on his brown face, announced that 
 the meal was ready. Throwing the door open, I was horrified to 
 find the kitchen crammed with the entire population of the neigh- 
 bourhood, and a procession organised to conduct me with all honour 
 to the salle a manger. Naturally shy and averse to all public demon- 
 strations, I felt the infliction in full force, but there was now no 
 help for it ; in front tripped the fair Margaret, followed by Mrs. 
 Mac, then came the scribe, guarded by Pat, and in this order we 
 passed through the crush-room. Instead of feeling puffed up by this 
 great ovation, I felt more like a man passing from the condemned 
 cell to the drop than an honoured guest being marshalled to the 
 banquet-room. In the apartment stood a prodigious rough deal 
 table, whereon, at long intervals, appeared a boiled trout, a mountain 
 of potatoes, a soddened chicken the size of a young partridge, and an 
 enormous dish of cabbage each and all of which, doubtless, at 
 some earlier period were in themselves excellent, but in passing 
 through the hands of Margaret and her mamma had acquired a 
 
SALMON ANOLINO IN IBELAND. 229 
 
 peculiar and uniform flavour not much prized by Saxon palates ; in 
 fact, the food, animal and vegetable, had been converted into conso- 
 lidated peat smoke. To feel thankful for the kind intentions. of the 
 ladies was easy ; to eat was impossible. How grateful I was to the 
 miserable cur that at this moment rubbed his nose against my 
 knees ; in secret I blessed him as my deliverer from a gi-eat diffi- 
 culty. I was expected to consume certain viands, not a morsel of 
 which could be swallowed. My unexpected ally was less nice. Slily, 
 pieces of fish and fowl were slipped into my lap, and as slily con- 
 sumed. The corpulence attained by that dog during my stay was 
 regarded as quite miraculous. 
 
 The phantom dinner at length came to an end, and then Pat 
 pointed to the spoils of the morning. Two salmon of 121b. and 
 81b. held the post of honour, then came Mr. M'Hale's great trout, 
 then a brace, whose united merits were good for ten pounds ; next 
 figured the rank and file, in number about twenty-four, of all sizes, 
 from 31b. to ^Ib. I felt as though I had fared sumptuously. Down 
 fell the heavy rain, making sweet music as it dropped unceasingly 
 from the eaves. One by one the guests departed; gradually the 
 household stole off to mysterious holes and comers. Presently a 
 chorus of snores mingled with the sounds of the mountain stonn, 
 yet there sat your scribe polishing off a batch of flies, by the light 
 of a couple of home-made rushlights, dreaming pleasant waking 
 dreams of what the mon'ow would bring forth. During the 
 remainder of our stay there was rain more or less each night, the 
 sport being proportioned to the amount of water. At the end of the 
 week the weather cleared up and sent us back to Newport, to haimt 
 the Beltra and Burrishoole. 
 
 In this and the previous chapter Pat M'Hale has figured as my 
 host. Kind and gentle spirit, I have called you from your bloody 
 shroud in memory of many long-passed happy hours spent in your 
 company. Had not some cowardly murderer's bullet sent you to an 
 untimely grave, you would have been my comrade as you once were. 
 Doubtless you inhabit realms brighter even than the heathery slopes 
 of Tyrena on a cloudless September noon. Pardon me that I have 
 
230 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 summoned you back to earth once more to walk tlie banks and 
 braes that in life you loved so well. But now the spell is broken, 
 and you must depart. The play is over ; the curtain is falling. 
 Vale Ite missa est. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXni. 
 
 After a lazy Day on the Banks of the Beltra, we become more lazy still ; 
 
 abandon our Duty in a shameful Manner, and go Sight-seeing to the Island 
 
 of Achil. 
 
 September 20. 
 The district surrounding the head of Clew Bay contains the pretty 
 towns of Westport and Newport ; the former situated on a small 
 stream running into the south-eastern angle of the inlet, and the 
 latter on the river which discharges the waters of Lough Beltra into 
 its north-eastern comer. Westport is a well-built and handsome 
 town ; two of the principal streets are parallel to the river, the 
 borders of which are laid out as a public walk, with rows of trees. 
 Westport House, the residence of the Marquis of Sligo by far the 
 finest mansion in the county stands in the immediate vicinity of the 
 town, near the sea. Between the two " ports," the head of Clew 
 Bay is studded over with green pasturable islands, varying in size 
 from a few acres to half a mile or more in length, and in number 
 amounting to 1 70. The shore along the head of Clew Bay is rich, 
 and worn into numerous peninsulas an^ low promontories, many of 
 them wooded, which greatly increases their picturesque effect. On 
 one of them stands the residence of Sir William O'Malley, and at 
 Newport, close to the town, is the seat of Sir Eichard O'Donnell, 
 proprietor of large tracts in the neighbourhood. The scenery of this 
 district is remarkably striking ; the beauty of the bay, with its 
 labyrinth of islands, appears to have been known from an early 
 period, since they are distinguished as the "Fortunate Islands" 
 in an Italian map of the sixteenth century. 
 
 The absence of rain for the last twenty-four hours, which reduced 
 
SALMON ANGUNO IN mSLAND. 231 
 
 the brook at T3rrena to a condition midway between a mountain rill 
 and a mountain road, brought the Beltra into excellent tune, so we 
 will suppose permission asked ; leave obtained ; the great melancholy 
 house left behind ; and Willie and his master padding along the road 
 leading to the bridge; for here, as elsewhere in this kindly land, 
 leave is seldom refused, unless the water should chance to be specially 
 leased for the rod. Compared with Tyrena, where, from the source 
 to the sea, I cannot recall a single bush higher than the bog myrtle, 
 the Beltra may, in its lower pools, be called woody. Here and there 
 a group of ash trees cast a shade over the water, and so far repre- 
 sented timber as to make the angler cautious how he propelled his 
 line. Halting on the bridge we got our machinery into working 
 order and commenced operations. The water was all that could be 
 desired, but the day was by no means favourable ; there was too 
 much sun and too little wind. Nor were the streams on the Beltra 
 of sufficient volume to make an angler independent of calms and 
 cloudless skies. The work of the previous week had been hard, and 
 the sport admirable ; now I was indisposed for exertion, and 
 unreasonable in my expectations. The fact was, experience showed 
 circumstances were against me, and I was too fagged to fight the 
 battle with that spirit and determination which could alone win the 
 day against adverse fortune. Then, again, many of the pools pos- 
 sessed a quiet beauty that required to be sketched, and several flowers 
 presented themselves, which needed dissection and examination under 
 the lens. There was also another impediment to exertion in the 
 shape of a solitary robin, who, unquestionably banished from the 
 company of his fellows for malpractices, took a great fancy to me, 
 and fluttered on from spray to spray as I moved lazily forwards. 
 There never was so loquacious a bird. Did I rest for a moment, he 
 was sure to open his grief ; nor was he satisfied with plain prose, for 
 he put his wrongs into poetry, and chanted the lay so soothingly, 
 that I could not choose but listen. Later in the day this lazy, dreamy, 
 disposition left me ; some of the old energy returned, and, though lost 
 time could not be recalled, I thought myself rewarded to the full of my 
 deservings by the possession of ten white and a few small brown trout. 
 
532 A YEAR OF liberty; OB, 
 
 *' Who has not heard of the sufferings of the peasantry of Mayo, 
 where, every three or four years, famine and pestilence do their 
 work ? Look at that wretched hovel (there are many such) ; the 
 roof hardly rises six feet above the level of the moor, and the walls 
 are formed of sods fresh dug from the swamp. It boasts no window ; 
 from its floor, reek exhalations from the bog ; its * bent ' covered roof 
 is pervious to every shower ; and that acre of potatoes forms the sole 
 hope of the miserable inhabitants through the long winter, spring, 
 and early summer. Let the crop fail, as it probably will, and the 
 owner must waste day by day from starvation, till he falls before 
 fever or dysentery. Miserable farming, sour wet lands, and the most 
 uncertain climate in the empire, contribute in this part of Mayo to 
 render a general failure of the crops a matter of frequent occurrence. 
 Then the papers teem with heart-rending details of the inhabitants 
 of an extensive district perishing by hundreds in all the horrors of 
 starvation. 
 
 " ' Why do they not work? ' asks the Englishman. Why? Because 
 there is no work to be had. Can a man support a family from an 
 average of one hundred days' work per annum, at sixpence or eight- 
 pence a day ? Can six or eight human beings be clothed, fed, and 
 pay house-rent on less than three pounds sterling ? The wretched 
 father has but one resource, to till an acre of bog, and ward off 
 death as long as he may ; food of the worst description, and in 
 miserably insufficient quantities ; constant exposure to wet, rags 
 open to every blast, and all those evils uncheered by one ray of hope 
 to brighten the time of trial and suffering. Soon sickness comes ; 
 let its breath be so light as not to shake one petal from the rosy 
 cheek of a well-fed child, it will drag the half-starved sufferer 
 to rest." 
 
 The truth of the above extract struck me forcibly as we rolled 
 towards the Sound of Achil ; not that the country was exactly as 
 it had been when the sketch was drawn, but because sufficient proofs 
 remained to show how correct the remarks must have been when 
 they were written. 
 
 Achil, which during the last quarter of a century has attracted 
 
SALMON ANOLINO IN IBELAND. 233 
 
 considerable attention from the divine, the philanthropist, and the 
 statesman, was previously less known than the Friendly Isles are at 
 the present day. This lonely district contributes but little towards 
 our speciality, for, as a general rule, its lakes contain (I believe) only 
 small trout ; still, we were anxious to see a place about which so 
 much has been said. Crossing the sound we rolled over a tolerably 
 level road, and reached Dugurth (the capital) a little after midday. 
 
 The mission buildings were as neat and orderly as when Mr. 
 Nangle presided over the infant colony, and seemed still to exercise 
 a wholesome influence over the place. These pages, however, are 
 not suited to discuss the failure or success of an undertaking, which 
 was here attempted on a scale so large as to comprehend little less 
 than a design of converting the entire Romanist population to 
 Protestantism. That the plan failed is certainly not to be wondered 
 at ; each party viewed the matter from a different point of sight, 
 and could by no means attain to a happy unanimity on the question 
 of " names." 
 
 But enough of this. There lays Black Sod Bay, with each strand 
 and creek, river and mountain, so lovingly described and immor- 
 talised by Maxwell in his " Wild Sports of the West." As my eye 
 ran over the place where his youth was passed, I could not but think 
 of his age the one so bright the other so sad. There shone the 
 river he loved so well, yonder rose the mountain where the deer fell 
 before " Hennessey's unfailing rifle." I fancied, too, I could distin- 
 guish the hut on Carrig-a-Binniogh, where so blithe a party will 
 never more meet ; nor should I have been surprised to see Patigo 
 get under way, beat the hooker out of the bay, and, standing in for 
 the anchorage, hail a shore-boat, and land two sportsmen bright and 
 joyous from the possession of youth, health, and strength, for three 
 days' sport over the mountains and morasses of Achil. If ever man 
 was formed for happiness it was Maxwell. Alas ! that it must be 
 said, if ever man earned sorrow and laboured after poverty and 
 contempt, it was the gifted author of "Wild Sports." To my 
 thinking, notwithstanding their joyous spirit, truth and sentiment, 
 these sparkling volumes are the most mournful books in existence. 
 
2^4 
 
 A YEAR OF LIBERTY : OE, 
 
 Whilst tlins gazing far over mainland and sea, we stood about 
 midway up the steep side of Slieve More, which, rose immediately- 
 above the village of Dugurth. The poor nag that brought us from 
 Newport^ now patiently undergoing a minimum amount of grooming, 
 seemed close to us ; the ducks that waddled up the street, the 
 ragged urchins that sprawled in the sand, appeared almost within 
 arm's length ; the lichens on the thatch, the curraghs on the beach, 
 the rough fishing gear on the stones, were plainly visible, and gave 
 a living interest to a scene otherwise sufficiently solitary and desolate. 
 The heather on the sea face of Slieve More was exactly as poor 
 Maxwell described it, "short and stunted," yet it made a delicious 
 carpet for our feet as we walked over the finest cliff scenery in 
 Britain. 
 
 Below, many a narrow and dangerous path led down to the black 
 and slippery rocks, on which, notwithstanding the profound calm 
 that prevailed, a great green roller would at uncertain intervals break, 
 sweeping over the ledges with irresistible force ; yet, in the midst of 
 such seeming danger, many a man and boy sat calmly fishing for 
 lythe, glashens, or cuddings, happily oblivious of the many tales 
 that could be told of those whom some treacherous wave in an 
 unlooked for moment bore from time to eternity. 
 
 There was a delicious coolness in the light currents of air playing 
 ever and anon over the side of the mountain, that mado fatigue out 
 of the question . so we walked on stoutly, and presently halted above 
 Lough-na-Kerogh ; at least such seemed to be the pronunciation to 
 my Saxon ears. There, on a low ledge of rocks, were a pair of 
 ospreys, calmly viewing themselves in the blue and unruffled mirror. 
 So dignified and composed were their motions that we had time to 
 note distinctly their appearance and attitude before they spread their 
 strong wings and sailed away in all the might and majesty of power. 
 It has already been said that Achil presents some of the finest coast 
 scenery in the kingdom ; and this, as we continued to ascend, grew 
 more grand and striking till it attained its culminating point at Keel. 
 Here the whole side of the mountain, which seemed to have been 
 rent assunder in some convulsion of nature, constituted a precipice 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 235 
 
 of 2222 feet, springing directly from the water's edge. We stood 
 on the summit looking over the wide ocean, which bore no sail ; on 
 turning landward, beheld the island spread out before us ; an occa- 
 sional patch of oats, still green, relieving the monotony of the sterile 
 hills and the black peat bogs. Some small flocks of goats crouched 
 amongst the boulders, or wandered over the nearly naked ledges of 
 rock, and seemed quite in keeping with the scene. 
 
 The short twilight of an autumn evening was drawing to a close 
 as we once more entered Dugurth, nor do I ever remember appre- 
 ciating more fully the comforts of a good inn than I did on that 
 evening, when we discussed a hind quarter of Keel mutton, which, 
 from its exquisite flavour, must have quaffed nectar, or fattened on 
 ambrosia. 
 
 Northward from the range of Nephin lies a vast tract of desolate 
 moorlands, bounded on the east by the fertile valley of the Moy, 
 and on the west by the mountains of Tyrawley and Nephin Beg. A 
 nearly parallel ridge divides this district into two portions, the 
 waters of one flowing into Lough Conn, whilst the streams of the 
 other, passing through a gap in the centre of the range from the 
 Owenmore river, fall into the head of Black Sod Bay. This savage 
 wilderness less known, perhaps, than any other part of Ireland is 
 of great beauty, and possesses special interest for the sportsman. 
 South of the valley of the Owenmore, the mountain outlines are 
 particularly bold and striking, being broken into lateral defiles, and 
 containing many lakes of surpassing beauty. The chief heights are 
 Slieve Cor, Nephin Beg, and Cush-cum-Curragh, the last rising 
 immediately above the shores of Clew Bay, and, with its offsets, 
 occupying the entire promontory of Corraun Achil, and beyond it 
 towering again in many a bold elevation through Achil proper. 
 
 This island is of triangular form and of considerable extent, its 
 three sides being respectively twelve, fourteen, and fifteen miles. 
 
 Having swallowed all this geographical knowledge from a stout 
 quaiix) borrowed from the landlord, the effect, as might naturally be 
 expected, proved powerfully soporific. Instinctively my thoughts 
 turned bedwards, and then flew off at a tangent towards Alphonso 
 
236 A TEAR OF LIBERTY; OR, 
 
 Jones. At first sight it might seem difficult to establish any 
 connection between that gentleman and my dormitory ; but the fact 
 is, our very comfortable hospitium some years ago, under a former 
 management, had the great misfortune to get into my friend's 
 black books. 
 
 *' Oh aw so you are going into the west! " he observed one 
 evening during the preceding winter, " 'Spose you'll find your way 
 to Achil ? Every fellah does. But mind you come to a clear under- 
 standing about your bed. You remember, Julia" (to his sposa), 
 " what an awful wow I had about ours ? " 
 
 " How can you be so absurd ? " remarked the lady, with something 
 very like a blush, as she made a rather sudden retreat. 
 
 " 'Spose I ought not to have talked about it to you before her ? 
 Never mind, this is the way it happened. During our honeymoon 
 we visited Achil ; everything was delightful ; weather, fine ; country, 
 beautiful ; fare, good ; whisky, unexceptionable ; and on the morning 
 of our departure I asked for my bill, with a feeling nearly akin to 
 that with which refined minds repay an obligation. Running my 
 eye carelessly over it I remarked, ' There is one little error ; you have 
 charged me for two beds.' 
 
 " ' Ah ! yes ; yourself and lady.' 
 
 " ' Gracious heavens ! Do you suppose I have quarrelled with my 
 wife?' 
 
 " ' Oh, dear, no, but two persons require two couches.' 
 
 " ' That depends,' I remarked, somewhat ruffled. 'It can't apply 
 to me and my Julia ; that is, to a man and his wife, who, according 
 to law, gospel, and popular usages, are not plural but singular.' 
 
 " ' Not in this house, sir ; but if you wish it I will consult the 
 principal.' 
 
 " ' Consult the d . Hark ye, my friend, you may spare 
 
 yourself the trouble ; there's my card, but if I pay for two beds 
 for one flesh may I be hanged.' So you had better take warning, 
 Walter, and come to an understanding if you don't want a wow." 
 
 This was evidently a very sore point with Alphonso ; whether it 
 was a fact or fiction, whether it occurred here or elsewhere, I cannot 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 237 
 
 determine, for my friend was a great traveller, and, like some other 
 people, apt to tell his own stories till he believed them. 
 
 Even the prospect of being charged for three beds would not have 
 disturbed me, as I opened my window and looked out over the quiet 
 village and the lonely sea. What is an error in an inn bill, or even 
 peculiar opinions touching conjugal privileges, compared with a 
 man's peace of mind ? 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 Achil Taken Captive Western Village New Style of Trolling Inn Bill 
 Tyrena in "The Dry Season" Father Ned Perseverance Erica Medi 
 terranea Carrig-a-Binniogh A Quiet Evening Under the Stars 
 
 September 25. 
 If any man desires the blessings of health and long life, let him 
 eschew " Parr's pills," avoid suppers, and sleep with his window 
 open. Through that balmy autumn night I was more than half 
 conscious of the solemn strains old Ocean drew from rock and 
 cavern ; heard the light rustle of the curtains as they swayed to and 
 fro with the breeze, and felt the exquisite sweetness of the air as it 
 stole laden with mountain fragrance down the sides of Sleive More. 
 To wake with the lark is almost a necessity under such conditions ; 
 and those " sweet spirits " mere specks against the blue sky were 
 singing the praises of early rising as I strapped the razor- on the left 
 palm previous to making some small portion of my countenance 
 visible. At this important crisis there was a sound of tiny feet 
 rushing up the stairs, and in another moment the door was flung 
 open, and two as fine little fellows as ever plagued mamma bounded 
 into the room, without the least regard to the sacredness of the 
 sanctuary so rudely violated. 
 
 " Oh, I say," observed a precocious specimen of nine, " pa told me 
 you were sure to be up. You must make me a fly and give me a 
 
238 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 line now, won't you ? We're going to Keel, you know. Mamma 
 is packing up such a cake, and won't we have a jolly day !" 
 
 Any vague ideas previously entertained of personal adornment 
 were of necessity abandoned ; the razor fell back into its case, and 
 soon I was doing suit and service at the bidding of the juvenile 
 tyrants who had thus taken forcible possession of me. 
 
 One reason for leaving Newport was the pleasure we anticipated 
 from wandering over this wild region ; another, a wish to see an old 
 friend who had located himself and family in this Ultima Thule of 
 civilised life. I found him as men who steadily do their duty 
 always are found ^bright and cheerful, without an idle hour or an 
 unsatisfied wish. After a prolonged chat on the previous evening, 
 he proposed to lionise us on the following day over the west or most 
 primitive portion of the island, in order to give us some idea of its 
 condition, before the Saxon, backed by a whole aimy of good inten- 
 tions, invaded it. 
 
 The young tyrants who surprised me in a defenceless condition, 
 held me in bondage till pater and mater came to the rescue some 
 three hours after, and set me at liberty. 
 
 As we drove down the level road which led from Dugurth to Keel, 
 I could not but feel how dreary it was. The tallest green thing to 
 be seen was the Osmunda regalis the only shrub the bog myrtle. 
 Peat swamps, intersected with watercourses and dotted with innu- 
 merable pools of black stagnant water, fonned the chief features in 
 the landscape. Here and there patches of potatoes, laid out in the 
 usual lazy beds, with the intervening furrows full of water, or a 
 small inclosure, said to contain oats, relieved the monotony. So 
 disguised, however, was ''the farm" with marigolds, polygonum, 
 and divers other natural productions of the soil, that I should 
 scarcely have recognised the crop had I been left to the unassisted 
 exercise of my own genius. As we approached the sea, my philan- 
 thropic spirit felt quite revived by the sight of a considerable 
 number of small circular ricks, apparently thatched with more 
 regard to neatness and security than is generally found in regions 
 even better cultivated than Achil. Here at least was corn stored up 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 289 
 
 for the winter. A nearer approach dissipated the illusion, and 
 showed my imaginary " wind mows " to be a cluster of wigwams 
 constituting the town of Keel. Altogether I believe this weftem 
 village to be unique ; in my experience, at least, Britain shows 
 nothing like it. In Africa such town architecture is not uncommon, 
 and any illustrated work on that highly civilised country will show 
 many such settlements on the Zambesi and elsewhere ; but misery 
 is no subject for jesting, and ere this I trust that the village of Keel 
 is being rebuilt on a more European plan. 
 
 Not far from the beach was a lake, on the shores of which the 
 ladies proceeded to unpack their baskets and make extensive prepa- 
 rations for dinner, pending which the juveniles deteimined to launch 
 a miniature cutter some two feet in length, and of course the seniors 
 were bound to attend. It was a likely piece of water, and I natu- 
 rally asked my friend if it held any good fish. On this point he 
 could afford me no information, but suggested that, by way of trial, 
 we should fasten to a hook a diminutive trout Master Harry had 
 previously killed, and with this freight send the cutter forth on a 
 voyage of discovery. After considerable rummaging, four or five old 
 flies and a little waxed thread were discovered in the lining of my 
 hat, and with such materials a sort of trolling trace was manu- 
 factured, the topsail halyards making not a bad line. "We i.e., the 
 children large and small watched the graceful little craft, now 
 close-hauled, then running up into the wind, and anon falling off, 
 till summoned to dinner, when the Dolphin sailed quite out of 
 remembrance. Lobsters and kid had vanished, the cake had grown 
 considerably smaller and a stout jar much lighter, when a dismal 
 shout from the boys recalled our attention to the forgotten Dolphin. 
 That adventurous craft had, it seemed, performed about half her 
 voyage across the lake, when she suddenly went down, stern fore- 
 most, to the great dismay of her owners, causing the cry of despair 
 before-mentioned. Springing up, I was just in time to see the bows, 
 jib, and bowsprit rise suddenly above the water and as suddenly 
 disappear. My friend's conversation had interested me ; the boys' 
 startling cry had bewildered me ; and for a moment I forgot all 
 
240 A YEAR or LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 about the trolling apparatus fastened to tlie belaying pin of the main 
 sheet. Soon, however, the stanch little cutter once more came to 
 the surface, made rapid stem way, paused in this unusual mode of 
 progression, filled, forged ahead, and then, obeying some unseen 
 force, was whirled round and round, and once more descended 
 towards the locker of Mr. Davy Jones'. The Dolphin had indeed got 
 a freight, but whether she would ever come safe to port was quite 
 another question. The storm still raged, though with diminished 
 fury ; partial plunges succeeded perfect immersion ; slowly and 
 gradually the boat drifted towards the opposite shore, bearing her 
 exhausted prize with her. And now a general race commenced; the 
 ardour of the boys would not be restrained, and by the time we got 
 round the lake and neared the scene of action they were a hundred 
 yards ahead and beyond all control. I was, however, able to see the 
 Dolphin on her beam ends in about five inches of water, and could 
 distinguish the form of a heavy fish lying on his side a couple of 
 feet or so to windward, when the leading urchin dashed at his boat 
 and gave a desperate heave. There was a momentary splash, and 
 then the youthful angler received his first lesson, and experienced 
 his first piscatorial disappointment. From the little I saw, I con- 
 jectured the fish to be between 111b. and 121b., but whether a ferox, 
 salmon, or overgrown brown trout, was beyond my power to decide. 
 That night I asked for my bill, intending an early start on the 
 following morning ; and deem it simply an act of justice to declare 
 that one dormitory only figured in the account. 
 
 It was not yet eight o'clock when the car crawled slowly up the 
 incline from the bridge of Tyrena towards Pat's hospitium. Near 
 the summit was a dark stout figure which we knew well. 
 
 "You had better ask Father Ned to dinner," remarked Madame, 
 " and I will send you something out from Newport." 
 
 The kind and simple priest was a favourite with us all. Warm, 
 though brief, was the greeting, and, as the carriage rolled on, the 
 good father and myself turned in to seek some breakfast before going 
 to the brook for the last time. 
 
 There had been a little rain during the night, sufficient at least to 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 241 
 
 raise my hopes, but, alas ! insufficieDt to move the stream, the bed 
 of which was nearly dry. Still I was bent on trying a few of the 
 dark and stagnant pools that lay about a couple of miles up 
 amongst the mountains, and felt sure of a pleasant day in the 
 priest's company. Now the P. P. of T3rrena was, doubtless, a sound 
 churchman, yet his geological education had been sadly neglected 
 at Maynooth ; for, the conversation happening to turn on the 
 Causeway, like a " pragmatical ass " I must needs enter into the 
 doctrine of its igneous origin, and forthwith incurred the censure of 
 the Church. 
 
 '^ Oh, docther dear, it is not that ye mane," ^in the mild and 
 earnest spirit of an apostle condemning some heretical opinion held 
 by a friend and a brother, " Sure ye know 'twas huilt by the gi'eat 
 min in ould ancient times, and, by raison of thim, isn't it called the 
 Giants' Causeway to this day ? Oh ! docther, dear, take a friend's 
 advice, and niver talk about what ye don't understand !" 
 
 The propriety of Father Ned's advice struck me forcibly, so I was 
 silent and left the victory in his hands. He was but mortal, and the 
 flush of his triumph shone on him all day. How pleasantly we 
 trudged through the rare Erica Mediterranea, now dropping our 
 single fly on a pool as smooth as a great slab of black marble, and 
 then following the pathless swamp, gradually came nearer the base of 
 Carrig-a-Binniogh. The good father carried the net with as much 
 dignity as if it had been a crosier ; spoke of the loneliness of his 
 position ; the pleasure of meeting a companion ; poured forth his 
 troubles about his flock ; and finally proposed we should plant rod 
 and net in the bog and scale the summit of the mountain. To this 
 proposition I willingly assented, and after half an hour's stout walk- 
 ing, stood on the topmost peak. Spread out before us was a sight as 
 lovely as ever filled the heart of man with delight. To the south lay 
 the Eeek, the mountain tops of Murrisk, and Clew Bay, gemmed with 
 its many islands ; whilst at our feet was an interminable wilderness 
 of heather. To the north stretched Black Sod Bay, and all the wild 
 region, made classic ground by Maxwell. To the west was Achil, 
 and beyond rolled the boundless, sparkling Atlantic. In a nan-ow 
 
242 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 pass my companion pointed to some droppings and footprints, which 
 he declared to be those of deer. I fear, however, the race, once so 
 numerous, must now, if not extinct, consist only of a few stragglers. 
 In the chapels of this district, hardly twenty years ago, " the rint " 
 was diligently collected. Now the "Liberator" has long been 
 forgotten, and that household word, his name, is unheard. Such 
 is fame ! Who would spend health, peace, or life in the pursuit of 
 such a bubble ? 
 
 Eeluctantly we began the descent found the rod and recom- 
 menced fishing the eight or ten " water-holes " that the bed of the 
 river contained. Had I been wise I should have passed Tyrena in 
 the morning and been put down at Burrishoole; but the sight of 
 Father Ned decided my movements, and having promised him a fish 
 course, I was bound to get one if possible. Never had sport seemed 
 so utterly hopeless. In the earlier part of the day we had not risen 
 a fish ; what chance was there of doing so now ? Half inclined to 
 give it up as hopeless, I turned to depart ; but the good priest, 
 waim with his walk, had already seated himself for the double 
 purpose of rest and observation. At this juncture some good genius 
 recalled to my memory an angling trick I had as a boy often 
 practised in calm weather. Casting the fly on the broad leaves 
 of an aquatic plant, the line was gently shaken till it dropped 
 off noiselessly and smoothly into the water. This manoeuvre had 
 been repeated ten or twelve times without any results, but on the 
 next cast, a capital rise startled me completely. It was the last 
 thing expected, and when I felt a two-pound trout tugging at my 
 line, wonder on my own account, and satisfaction on the score of the 
 good father's first course, had reached their climax. With renewed 
 faith the remaining pools were treated in the same way ; and when, 
 finally, eight of these fish all, with the exception of the first, 
 however, less than lib. in weight were counted out on the heather, 
 I felt disposed to believe the science of angling contained no 
 impossibility. 
 
 This must have been one of Father Ned's lucky days, for on 
 entering Mrs. Pat's kitchen my stomach felt a delicious emotion 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 243 
 
 at seeing my honest servant cooking a joint of lamb. From that 
 moment bright visions of an eatable dinner gladdened my inner 
 man, and the contents of the creel were committed to his care 
 without fear of their being larded with turf ash or saturated with 
 peat smoke. 
 
 As the shades of evening fell over mountain and moor, the first 
 course appeared. Father Ned blessed the fish, flesh, and fowl, 
 though the latter was iion est. In sober converse we saw the stars 
 come forth, and ere I bade the simple priest good night, the moon 
 was high in heaven to light two belated travellers along the solitary 
 road. 
 
 " I forgot to say, master, that the mistress bade me tell you she 
 hoped you'd be home by half -past nine." 
 
 This message was rather superfluous, seeing it was near eleven 
 before our adieux were made, and long past that hour ere I lost 
 sight of Father Ned's dark figure standing on the crest of the hill, 
 as he watched his heretical friend fade slowly away into the 
 darkness. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 Donegal ^We lodge by the Castle A Morning Walk to Mount Cliarles The 
 River Strong Run after the Netting Season The Blacksmith attends our 
 Summons A ministering Angel Return in a Deluge, and, the lost One 
 being found, the Bells are set a-ringing ! 
 
 September 30. 
 I WONDEB whether all jackdaws are as matinal as those which reside 
 in the town of Donegal ; if so, I trust no gentleman fond of lying in 
 bed after dawn will lodge as close to a colony of those very early 
 birds as we did. Our situation, however, had some advantages, 
 which shall be duly set forth for the benefit of those who may come 
 after. 
 
 B 2 
 
244 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OE, 
 
 Donegal lies at tlie head of a quiet estuary, decked with grassy 
 shores, each abrupt swell being green as an emerald. At low water 
 the channel is nearly dry, but at the top of the flood the tide flows 
 above the bridge nearly up to the old Castle. Five-sixths of the 
 town lie on the south bank of the Esk, whilst a long, straggling 
 row of buildings on the opposite side, lovingly follows the curva- 
 tures of the clear and flashing river. Here, "out of town," stands 
 
 a house of comfortable aspect belonging to Mrs. S , with whom, 
 
 as on two former occasions, we have cast in our lot. Now, small 
 Irish towns are not generally pleasant places in which to dwell. 
 Neither sights, sounds, nor scents are what a traveller would select ; 
 so, like prudent people, we preferred the circumference to the centre. 
 By doing so on the present occasion we secured three or four 
 advantages, being within twenty feet of the river, in imme- 
 diate proximity to the most beautiful ruin in Ireland, on the 
 high road to Lough Esk, and in sweet air from morning till 
 night. 
 
 There was, however, one drawback to our felicity. On the oppo- 
 site side of the stream stood ''O'Donnell's Castle," a very charming 
 specimen of a mediaeval dwelling-house, sufficiently ruinous to be 
 picturesque, yet sufficiently intelligible to inform us how the great 
 chieftain lived when at home. Never were walls more luxuriantly 
 draped with ivy, and never was such tapestry so thickly studded 
 with jackdaws. Had our lively and garrulous neighbours got out of 
 bed at a reasonable hour I should have made no complaint ; had 
 they risen with the sun I might have been silent ; but their conduct 
 was far worse than this, for I verily believe they talked in their 
 sleep. During my sojourns on the margin of the Esk I have been 
 up at all hours, and could swear that at such times I invariably 
 heard some members of the colony either mumbling to themselves 
 or holding forth to their friends, the harangue uniformly producing 
 a wild outbreak of popular fury. 
 
 A short distance below the bridge stood the ruins of a fine old 
 religious house, commanding a pleasant view down the quiet estuary. 
 Here, on many an "impracticable day," I have sat in the shade 
 
SALMON ANGLINQ IN IRELAND. 245 
 
 reading the names of O'Boyle, M'Swire, or O'Dogherty, impoverished 
 descendants, probably, of the savage chieftains who once did suit 
 and service to the O'Donnell. 
 
 Donegal forms the north-western extremity of Ireland, and, taken 
 as a whole, is probably the wildest portion of the island. The 
 entire county is uneven and mountainous, and, with a few small 
 exceptions, is made up of lakes, streams, swamps, rock, and moor- 
 land ; in fact, it is just the region in which to wind up the latter 
 part of the season. As a general rule, small rivers are late rivers ; 
 for the fish, as if warned by traditionary experience, are not easily 
 seduced by early freshes, but hang about the coast till the autumn 
 and winter rains ensure them a safe ascent, time to deposit their 
 ova, and full power to return. 
 
 In Donegal generally, the rivers are small and late, but as each 
 spate at this season brings up a good store of fresh salmon and 
 trout, the sportsman's pannier will not contain an undue proportion 
 of red fish or ill-made white trout, and therefore, as we said before, 
 this county is just the place in which to wind up the angling year. 
 We, however, shall not be able to follow the plan here recommended, 
 as we have promised an old friend to kill a fish in his company on 
 Wednesday, the 1st of November, in one of the mountain streams 
 of Kerry a great favourite of ours, where we have ended many a 
 season triumphantly. We have reached the end of September, 
 and on Monday, when we float on Lough Esk, the results will have 
 to- be chronicled under the date of October 2. 
 
 The fish have now lost much of their excellence and more of their 
 beauty, and, with rare exceptions, are no longer the strong active 
 creatures they were in July and August. Nature shows, in short, 
 that the protective season should commence ; but, though compelled 
 to write this truth, the charm of following a brown and dashing 
 stream over the purple moor seems now greater than when, in breezy 
 March or scorching July, we trolled the lakes, or wandered along the 
 banks of the glorious Erne or prolific Moy. But, alasl mingled 
 with the pleasure comes a feeling of pain, that " the year of liberty" 
 is drawing to a close, and that a time of such exquisite happiness 
 
246 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OE, 
 
 must soon be a portion of the dead past, and no longer a part of the 
 living joyous present 
 
 Donegal, if the season be wet, makes excellent head-quarters for 
 the autumn. Our rod is never taken to pieces, but stands ready in 
 the yard night and day. Close to the door flows the river, and 
 at any moment, before breakfast or after sunset, the Esk is at our 
 service, and seldom fails to yield us two or three trout. Whether, 
 under favourable circumstances, the river would offer occupation for 
 an entire day I do not know, as it was not in order during any of 
 my visits ; nevertheless, the pools round the walls of O'DonneU's 
 Castle were rarely neglected, and for an hour, night and morning, 
 regularly formed part of the day's work. Should the weather be 
 dry, there is always plenty of water in Lough Esk a lake 
 unsurpassed for beauty ^from which the angler will rarely return dis- 
 appointed. In the event of rain the Inver cannot fail to delight him, 
 and should he possess any power of appreciating grand combinations 
 of rock, heath, and mountain, a day on its banks will, I venture 
 to say, live long in his memory. Thus, in our present bivouac, 
 we are nearly independent of weather a great matter to a keen 
 sportsman. 
 
 In the old-fashioned window sat my patient follower, pulling to 
 pieces the wings of certain used-up insects, in order to collect 
 sufficient fragments of brown mallard to tie a few salmon and white 
 trout flies for the Inver. It was not yet six o'clock, and the rosy 
 east showed that the sun, now sadly given to lying in bed, was only 
 just preparing to rise. " They'll never do, master," remarked the 
 perplexed artiste, looking at his small collection ; " there an't no 
 more to strip to-mon^ow, and how will it be for the last month ? " 
 This was a poser, for no feather answers so well on mountain 
 streams, and of this particular article we were, unfortunately, fairly 
 cleaned out. "We could make a good many things, but we could 
 not make what was now wanted. In a desponding frame of mind I 
 walked down stairs into the yard, took the rod from the corner, 
 and. stepping across the road, commenced casting below the Cutts. 
 Presently a soft quacking caught my ear. I could hardly believe my 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 247 
 
 eyes, for there, sailing at the head of a bevy of ducks, were a pair 
 of mallards, in plumage as rich as ever gladdened the sight of a needy 
 angler. Except being a little larger, the markings were identical 
 with those of the wild birds. Who could be the proprietor of such 
 treasures ? Boys are plenty in Donegal : 
 
 "I say, Patsy, do you know whose ducks those are ? " 
 
 "Ned Casey's, your honour." 
 
 "Would he lend them for a few minutes? I should like to 
 borrow as many as could be got, for threepence apiece ; the two in 
 front I mean." 
 
 " That's quare now," observed Patsy, scratching his head in a 
 contemplative manner ; " berrying drakes ! Who ever heard the 
 like ? But your honour's will must be done ; it's plinty ye'll have ; " 
 and then, in a parting soliloquy, " 0, Peter I What will he do wid 
 'em at all, at all ? " 
 
 Anxious on the score of the flies to be used that day on the 
 Inver, I soon returned, and found my servant had completed three 
 for grilse and half a dozen for white trout, as far as the shoulders. 
 These were duly disposed on a sheet of paper, whilst he rummaged 
 our stock in hope of finding what he needed. In this hunt I 
 joined ; envelopes were opened, papers examined, manifold tin boxes 
 searched, but not a mallard could be found. The rain, which had 
 ceased an hour or two before sunrise, showed symptoms of again 
 coming on, whilst the wind sighed and rustled through the poplars 
 below the Castle. "How provoking! " to my poor follower, who 
 was gloomily re-arranging the disordered bundles ; " 'twill be a 
 glorious day, and here we are without anything fit to use." 
 
 Stepping to the window to make a more correct estimate of the 
 weather, I noticed an unusual number of boys " all in a row," on the 
 low parapet by the river, gazing earnestly at the window. Could 
 the chimney be on fire ? But what on earth had each urchin under 
 his arm? I had quite forgotten the liberal order about the drakes, 
 and was now agreeably reminded of it by seeing a green head and 
 yellow bill protruded half a yard or so beyond the line of each 
 borrower's person. " There they are !" cried I, pointing into the 
 
548 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 road. " By Jove ! they really are come ; run, run, and bring them 
 up one by one." For the first and only time in his life Willie 
 believed his master to be hopelessly insane ; the expression of his 
 countenance was a compound of terror, wonder, and distress, as he 
 glanced from the window in the direction of my finger. In another 
 instant he was clattering down stairs, and in the next was pounding 
 up again. Seven first-class animals were rapidly despoiled of the 
 five or six good feathers to be found on each wing, eight others were 
 indignantly rejected, and the moderate sum of Is. 9d paid for '' the 
 loan " made us rich for the rest of the season. The transaction 
 took wind, and for the rest of my stay waterfowl became a source of 
 anxiety to their owners. The mania for borrowing became universal, 
 nor did a single morning pass in which during breakfast my servant, 
 with a very broad grin, did not report, "Sir, the drakes is come 
 again." 
 
 The flies were soon winged, the breakfast dispatched, and in half 
 an hour after my friend's mind was relieved on the score of his 
 master's supposed lunacy, we were trudging along the road towards 
 Mount Charles. The walk was a pleasant one, winding upwards 
 towards the moorland, and affording now a glimpse of the grey 
 ocean, now a clearer view of the brown hills. Passing through the 
 village, we soon reached the descent leading down to the bridge, and, 
 
 as directed by our kind friend Mr. S , made straight for the 
 
 smithy, where we found his trusty ally hammering with might and 
 main on a ploughshare at white heat. Having told our story and 
 craved his aid, the name of our friend proved a tower of strength, 
 and the best guide to the Inver flung away hammer, pincers, 
 and red hot iron, pitched a hat on his head, and marched straight 
 off to the nearest pool. 
 
 With an extra foot of brown peat water, a more tempting 
 mountain river than the Inver cannot well be imagined. Many of 
 my readers, I am sure, have such a stream in their memory, now 
 sweeping along in broad shallows, now curling over rocks, and anon 
 resting in a darker pool, the head and tail of which are sure to hold 
 many a bright-eyed salmon and silvery trout. At one such as this 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 24^ 
 
 my guide paused, and arranged on the 'casting line a Ballina grilse 
 fly, and for droppers a small fiery brown and golden olive, which 
 in another moment were skimming over the pool. I had made up 
 my mind for a rise at the first throw, and felt proportionately 
 disappointed at not getting one. Never was hour more favourable ; 
 there was a gi-ey sky, a stiff westerly breeze, a smir of rain, and 
 beautiful water. The lodge was rather a long one, and every inch 
 was tried down without the smallest sign of a fish. Bryan, the 
 smith, though near was not visible. I heard the voices of mv 
 companions, and was able to detect certain odours indicative of 
 pipes, but that was all. " So this is the way you look after the 
 interests of * the master's ' friends, is it, Mr. B. ? And that 
 
 fellow, Willie, too. Evil communications corrupt well, of course 
 
 they do. National schools ought to teach one hundred proverbs 
 with the catechism." Left to my own devices I tried a claret body, 
 black hackle, and mallard wing with equal want of success, and 
 next mounted a dark olive, which, for all the good it did, might 
 as well have remained unwetted. 
 
 Whilst mournfully brooding over the conduct of the deserters, 
 Willie's honest face appeared above a fragment of rock. There was 
 an odd smile on it as he walked up to his master. 
 
 " Bryan advised me to tie this, seeing the fust fly failed ; it's 
 a queer article, master ; but he says, when the rig'lar patterns won't 
 do, this one, in high water, often answers uncommon well." 
 
 Bryan's " advice " was sufficiently uncommon to justify my giving 
 a sketch of the insect. Here is an attested copy Gold tag, yellow 
 fur body, gold tinsel and red hackle, with black centre ; two or three 
 fibres of blue macaw for horns and two for tail complete the picture. 
 In hot weather I had often found a large black palmer kill grilse 
 when nothing else would move them, but I did not believe in this 
 " gold spinner," and felt indisposed to waste further care on the 
 lodge, as I had been steadily over it three times. Bryan's faith, 
 however, was unshaken ; he declared there were plenty of fish in it, 
 and that a new fly might do something ; so, walking to the head of 
 the pool, I commenced thrashing it once more. At the second 
 
250 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 cast a salmon came gallantly at me, previous disappointment was 
 forgotten, and, in my eyes, Bryan was the greatest of modern 
 discoverers. 
 I think it is Byron who says : 
 
 I care not for new pleasures 
 So that the old but hold. 
 
 This song has probably been chanted by every son of Adam, and 
 I could not but take up the burden. Here was the last day of 
 September ; yet the thrill of delight, as the line tightened under my 
 fingers, was as new and fresh as when the first fish of the season 
 was hooked eight months before in "the scholar's throw" at 
 Lismore. As the brave creature flew round the pool and then 
 dashed down the stream, I felt, whilst steering him clear of 
 difficulties, that no new pleasure could equal the zest of the old. 
 My servant, seeing that his last work of art was likely to command 
 public attention, immediately commenced another, and, giving the 
 gaff to Bryan, hastened on with his work. After a sharp burst 
 our prize turned to bay, and, for a while, fought with stubborn 
 determination. At length, in an evil moment, the poor fellow 
 exposed his side to the action of the stream. Taking advantage of 
 his error I rolled my man over, ran him down the stream, edging the 
 unfortunate nearer and nearer to the shore. The smith's practised 
 eye saw the end was near, and, dashing before me, stepped lightly 
 on a slippery and projecting point, and in a manner worthy his fame, 
 gave the coup de grace to a thirteen-pound salmon, on whose side 
 the slightest tinge of copper was apparent. Once more hopefully 
 this time we stood at the head of the pool, and were again 
 successful ; and before we left it, two grilse and a fine trout were 
 added to the bag, attesting the goodness of the river, the excellence 
 of the "queer article," and the advantages of perseverance. 
 
 Netting had ceased for some weeks, and a large supply had 
 accumulated in the river. There was, therefore, on a day so 
 favourable, no lack of sport, and our affairs prospered till after two 
 o'clock, when a sudden and unexpected fall in all descriptions of 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 251 
 
 stock took place. For the last hour the storms of rain had come 
 down more heavily, and those disagreeable wet stains on stones 
 previously dry which you and I know so well ^began to make 
 themselves too visible. The river was rising there was no longer 
 any possibility of doubting it ; and, what was worse, the fish had 
 ceased rising too ; but with seven salmon and nine trout in the bag, 
 and the sun likely to continue above the horizon till 5.40, retreat 
 was out of the question. The rain might cease, in which case 
 the river would soon fall, and perhaps give us a splendid half -hour 
 before dark ; at any rate it was a chance worth waiting for, and 
 one we were little likely to throw away. Bryan, however, thought 
 the prospect hopeless, and was, moreover, tortured with visions 
 of cold iron that should have been glowing, and damaged plough- 
 shares that long since ought to have been mended. His potatoes 
 were growing cool in the pot by the whitening embers ; excitement 
 was over ; the future promised little, and conscience, taking advan- 
 tage of the opportunity, was reproving his late abandonment of 
 duty for the flowery path of pleasure. As I knew the river pretty 
 well from former visits, there was no excuse for keeping even so 
 able a guide as Bryan ; with many thanks, therefore, for his services, 
 and an appointment for the coming Tuesday, I saw him scutter over 
 the bog like a wild duck, and soon disappear in the mist. 
 
 Three four o'clock the water has attained its maximum. Half- 
 past four a quarter of an inch lower. Five heavy shower ; river 
 rising. All this weary while my sober companion had been sitting 
 under the very insuflScient shelter of a bank, vainly trying to save a 
 wetting. To say he was like Patience on a monument would have 
 been a similitude most disparaging, for poor Patience, if left too 
 long on her silent seat, is apt to grow green and melancholy with 
 mildew and rough weather ; but that dear brown face was as calm 
 and bright as ever. 
 
 A few minutes more and twilight began to fall, when prepara- 
 tions were hastily made for departure. " Do you know the way 
 back to the road in the dark, master ? I think it's somewhere over 
 there," observed Patience, pointing with the butt of the rod vaguely 
 
252 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 along the south-eastern horizon. Alas ! I did not, and my heart sank 
 within me ; but what was the use of confessing my ignorance to one 
 equally ignorant ? With a stout assumption of superior knowledge, 
 with a feeble "all right," and an invitation to "come along," we 
 struck into the swamp, whilst the darkness rapidly settled down, 
 making doubt more than doubtful. 
 
 " Holloa ! stop ; holloa ! there." What a delight to hear a voice 
 besides our own. Facing quickly round we saw a horseman strug- 
 gling through the bog, and presently recognised the brave, kindly 
 
 face of Father T . " At what hour do you expect to reach 
 
 Glen ties ?" he said, laughing, "for it seems you are going there. 
 Bryan told me you were out, and that he had not seen you leave the 
 river. Knowing what a stubborn heretic you are, I expected you 
 would wait to the last, and perhaps come to grief in the darkness, 
 so I rode up to look after you. Give me the bag ; we have not a 
 minute to lose ; take hold of a stirrup leather, and Barney, may be, 
 he'll pull us all through." 
 
 Cold, drenched to the skin, weary, and half famished, I held on, 
 sinking midway to the knees in the wet moss at every step. The 
 good steed showed himself worthy of his charitable master, and after 
 half an hour's floundering brought us to a high bank, outside which 
 lay the high road to Mount Charles. 
 
 The long, single street of the village was reached at last. Here 
 and there a solitary "dip " made darkness visible in some huckster's 
 window, and, oh ! how I rejoiced when that good Christian Father 
 
 T flung open the door of his hospitable dwelling, and sent the 
 
 bright firelight streaming across the dark and reeking road. My 
 friend's charity was of ample measure. " Do as you would be done 
 by " was his rule of action, and all he had to give he gave. Bread 
 and cheese were at once set before the famished wayfarers. Next 
 a bottle of sherrry was produced, and dexterously decapitated by a 
 single blow. A full tumbler of the generous fluid was filled for 
 each of his guests, and a scant modicum taken by the host. But 
 his real kindness did not end here. "No, no," he said, "no sitting. 
 Tou are too wet for that. Another glass, take my horse, and 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 253 
 
 get home as fast as you can." Declining his ofifer of the horse, 
 I swallowed a bumper, and was soon trudging down hill towards 
 Donegal. Dear and worthy Father, should this ever meet your 
 eye, pray believe I still hold a grateful reinembrance of your 
 kindness, and hope yet to stand once more by your side on the 
 banks of the Inver. 
 
 It was a darkness that might be felt, whilst the rain poured down 
 in torrents as we toiled along. For every drop that fell on my 
 devoted head, a corresponding quantity flowed over the top of my 
 boots. We were perfectly wet through regularly saturated so 
 there was no need to hurry. An hour's pounding through the 
 slush brought us to the banks of the Esk. A little figure stood 
 in the doorway, and peered out into the gloom. " Oh ! master, 
 dear, we thought you were kilt entirely." The words were few 
 and the voice low, yet they reached loving ears far away. A 
 door was hastily flung open, and light feet flew down the stairs. 
 *' Oh ! Walter, is that you ? You horrid fellow, you will some 
 day frighten me to death ! Eun, Mary, for hot water ! Dry 
 clothes are by the fire. Don't stand in the passage as if it was 
 a summer's day. You are making the place in a flood. Dinner 
 was ordered for seven, and now it is near ten. I shall ring the 
 bell in a few minutes." 
 
 Do you remember, dear one, that happy meal the cozy pipe 
 the nocturnal chat? how I drank the health of a friend 
 whose last letter was dated not a hundred miles from Eaton- 
 square, and how you vowed that amongst the many good Christians 
 who walk this fair world of ours, none could compare with 
 Father T ? 
 
254 A YEAR OF LIBERTY; OR, 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Donegal Lough Esk A Journey through the Wilderness. 
 
 October 6. 
 The males of a family either are, or, for the maintenance of 
 domestic doctrine and discipline, are assumed by Materfamilias to 
 be, sadly troublesome delinquents, and this evil reputation, which 
 begins with childhood, continues to old age. 
 
 The knight and his squire were quite unable to see the iniquity 
 of coming home four hours or so too late on Saturday night. True, 
 the weather was such as no respectable dog would have been abroad 
 in if he could have helped it ; but that was our misfortune, not our 
 fault. We did not make the rain or the darkness ; in fact, would 
 gladly have dispensed with them, and considered it very hard lines 
 to be held responsible for what we neither desired nor could prevent. 
 It is with no wish to raise our virtue to an undue height that I say 
 we, the poor ill-used masculines, behaved nobly. I drank half a 
 bottle of vin de greve (by desire) to obviate the evil effects of so much 
 rain water, and, as the quality was good, finished the remainder 
 (also by desire) as a prophylactic against aches and pains in general ; 
 likewise at night a stiff tumbler of whisky punch screaming hot 
 (again by particular request) as a diaphoretic ; and what could man 
 do more ? These sacrifices, though acceptable, were inefficient. The 
 health of her Majesty and her prime minister had received a severe 
 shock ; even the tranquillising influence of the Eev. Dr. O'Callaghan's 
 evening sermon failed to produce perfect repose in the minds 
 of these unhappy females. Our sins required further expia- 
 tion we were delinquents still. On the following morning, 
 whilst passing through the yard for my rod. Mademoiselle 
 accosted me. 
 
 " Is it to Lough Esk you'll be going after breakfast, master ?" 
 
 " Yes. Why do you ask ?" 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 255 
 
 * I'd like to know, that's all. It will be hot like yesterday, I'm 
 thinking. Willie says it won't be good for the fishing." 
 
 The weather had again become fine, and we were about to enjoy a 
 little longer the last days of Indian summer a season so beautiful 
 in the highlands of Donegal. The mist lay heavy on the river, and, 
 moved by a faint air blowing up the estuary, curled in a thousand 
 graceful wreaths, slowly sailing upwards till lost in the blue above. 
 
 Doubly beautiful looked the ivied ruins of the castle ; weird and 
 spectral the aspens showed on the low parapet under its walls ; 
 whilst an occasional yellow leaf dropped silently into the water, 
 eloquently reminding us that summer was over and winter at 
 hand. 
 
 A few steps carried me across the road to the shingles, where I at 
 once set to work for my family. The fish were neither large nor 
 numerous, yet a decent one was presently dragged on shore, rapped 
 on the head, and laid on the stones which served as a larder. Before 
 breakfast time the industrious workman, having provided for the 
 immediate wants of his household, was doubtful as to the propriety 
 of once more trying the last stream down again for his own special 
 amusement, when the question was settled for him. 
 
 **I can only find three, master," said a very demure little maiden, 
 arranging the trio more symmetrically on a dish. Mary had come, 
 as usual, to carry home what was wanted for present use, and whilst 
 we hunted among the stones for a brace of small sea-trout which 
 she had overlooked, that spoiled " young person " took up the con- 
 versation where it had been left an hour before. 
 
 " Willie says it won't be a good day for sport. We shan't have 
 many more like it this year, and I'm sure the mistress would like to 
 go on the lake." 
 
 I saw what was expected, and resolved to do it handsomely. 
 " There," placing the missing fish beside their companions in 
 misfortune, " now, you have all. Eun away home. I'll see what 
 can be done." 
 
 The proposition was favourably received ; Micky Doolan's car was 
 ordered, and soon bore us towards a low-wooded point, where the 
 
256 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 streani, gliding under a rustic bridge, breaks away from one of the 
 most beautiful mountain tarns in the kingdom. 
 
 Lough Esk, a gem of the first water, lies in the midst of heathery 
 hills, which, at its northern extremity, seem actually to drop into 
 it, whilst the winding western shore is flat and richly wooded. 
 Leaving her Majesty and lady-in-waiting for a time under the charge 
 of that gentleman-usher Mr. Doolan, we embarked, just as that 
 individual, having unharnessed his nag and tethered him to a 
 sapling, lifted a hamper on his shoulders, and stood prompt to obey 
 theh' orders. Small in size, this lake has few rivals in loveliness, 
 but, lying out of the track usually followed by wandering anglers, 
 is little known to the sporting public. That it afforded good white 
 trout-fishing I knew from a friend who resides on its shores ; and 
 from my knowledge of the gentleman who owns the principal part 
 of the land adjacent, I believe no angler will apply in vain for 
 permission. It would be difficult to imagine a day more un- 
 favourable. The dark purple water was smooth as a mighty sheet 
 of glass, and so perfectly were mountain, rock, and tree reflected in 
 the mirror that Scott's beautiful lines might have been written here 
 some still autumn day long ago, to paint what we saw : 
 
 Reflected in the crystal pool 
 Headland and bank lay fair and cool, 
 The weather-tinted rock and tower, 
 Each drooping tree, each fairy flower, 
 So true, 80 soft, the mirror gave. 
 As if there lay beneath the wave, 
 Secure from trouble, toil, and care, 
 A world, than earthly world more fair. 
 
 " If you don't try, you can't succeed," is a maxim peculiarly 
 applicable to the brethren of the rod. We were paddling carelessly 
 along the western shore, crossing little bays and skirting miniature 
 headlands, the ground all the while looking very likely : but there 
 was a hopelessness about the day that induced a laziness in painful 
 contrast with our usual energy. Were we, too, falling into the sear 
 and yellow leaf? Notwithstanding our extreme deliberation, a 
 phantom minnow and kill-devil were at length twirling far astern, 
 
SALMON ANQLINQ IN IBELAND. 257 
 
 and lolling in the stern sheets I occasionally caught a momentary 
 glance of the baits as they crossed alternate patches of shade and 
 sunshine. Midway up the lake the boat glided within an oar's 
 length of one of the fairy promontories a miniature cliff, some six 
 or eight feet high, with broken fragments strewed at its base. 
 Dreamily thinking of some of the great ocean rocks, I had seen in 
 my wandeiings, I still continued to watch it, and felt certain a heavy 
 fish ran warily at the minnow, and equally certain that it was a 
 trout of unusual size. Willie, who undoubtedly was paddling in his 
 sleep, when appealed to stoutly protested he had not taken his eyes 
 off the minnow as it passed the point, and as obstinately maintained 
 that not even a "pinkeen " had stirred. I had great faith in his 
 judgment in matters piscatorial, but in the present case, though 
 silenced, I was not convinced, and was as ready as ever to swear, 
 not only that I had seen a trout, but had naiTowly missed being 
 introduced to the king of the lake. Before reaching the northern 
 side we picked up two or three small things, one of which, a little 
 salmo ferox, was made heartily welcome, because, though insignificant 
 himself, he had unquestionably powerful relations. 
 
 That day fly-fishing was a dismal practical joke. The artiste, 
 whose spirits were saddened by misfortune, viewing everything 
 through a very gloomy medium, was tortured with dark forebodings 
 about the dinner, his mistress, Micky Doolan, and *'our maid." 
 
 It was past twelve o'clock breakfast had been hurried, and I 
 too began to feel a natural anxiety, which shortly after was much 
 relieved by a thin column of smoke that began to steal up through 
 the trees about half a mile to the southward. Simultaneously lines 
 were reeled up, rods laid over the stern, and three oars being put on 
 (we were glad at last to find something to do), the boat flew swiftly 
 over the glassy water. 
 
 With a consciousness of merit, the ladies were graciously mys- 
 terious, so of course there was mischief afoot. Micky was all 
 smiles. Two iron crocks were on the embers ; one contained 
 potatoes ^what else could there be in it ? But the other I hate 
 concealments, especially on the subject of dinner. There was a 
 
 s 
 
258 A YEAR OF LIBERTT ; OE, 
 
 scent of onions, subtle, provoking, delicious ; there was a whole 
 pile of plates ; no wonder the party were so long invisible ; they 
 must have been foraging half over the country, and had, perhaps, 
 committed a burglary, for Micky's ideas on the question of meum 
 and tuwn were believed to be rather vague. Shall I ever forget the 
 emotion with which I beheld the wooden cover at last removed from 
 crock number one ? Shade of immortal Soyer ! it contained L'ish 
 stew flavoured to perfection, done to a bubble. That the entire 
 party were not taken ill was a special mercy, and that Messrs. Micky 
 and Willie left the place alive was simply miraculous. The human 
 mind has a fatal tendency to forget the future during present enjoy- 
 ment. Fully occupied with the savoury mess before me, crock number 
 two had faded out of my mind, nor could I at all understand why 
 Mademoiselle so frequently left the circle and vanished through the 
 bushes in the direction of the fire, and returning, exchanged mirthful 
 and meaning smiles with the queen of the banquet. Clean plates were 
 served out to the astonished guests, and, everything being ready, 
 Micky was ordered to bring in the next course. When the cover 
 was removed a mighty pudding became apparent, and a triumphant 
 shout arose when the first incision revealed apples and bilberries. It 
 was impossible to resist the call, and the health of our entertainer 
 was diTink enthusiastically. Subsequently it appeared that, whilst 
 botanising along the shores, a considerable quantity of these delicious 
 berries had been found. Micky was sworn to secrecy and taken into 
 partnership. " He knew," he said, "where there was an apple-tree 
 about a mile off, also a shop" near to this garden of the Hesperides. 
 These were great tidings ; the horse was put to the car, and the 
 adventurous Micky being sent forth on his embassy, returned with a 
 hat full of pippins, a bag of flour, sugar, onions, and a magnificent 
 stock of plates, which timely supplies enabled mistress and maid to 
 achieve the wonders we have recorded. I have been to many grand 
 spreads before and since, but none ever did, or perhaps ever will, 
 come up to that unrivalled banquet at Lough Esk. 
 
 Our party was now united, with the exception of Mr. Doolan, 
 whose duty it was to return the crockery and look after the nag. A 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 259 
 
 light easterly air had sprung up, of which we being on the lee 
 shore enjoyed the full benefit. It would hardly have blown out a 
 match, yet it raised our spirits, and confidence is near akin to 
 success. Notwithstanding the dinner, I remembered the point past 
 which we were now paddling. 
 
 " There, Willie, between those two stones, just where the fly is 
 dropping, that was the place where I saw the big trout." 
 
 The obstinate party slowly opened his mouth, probably with the 
 intention of stating at length his reasons why my opinion was erro- 
 neous, when a tearing rise cut short the proposed oration ; he was, 
 however, incorrigible, for I heard him murmur to himself, " Well, I 
 never did see the like ; but it's no trout anyway, that's one comfort." 
 Whatever it was, the great unknown afforded me full occupation ; 
 for, surprised in shallow water, he went off at a pace that promised 
 soon to arrive at the end of the tether. Whether it was the Irish 
 stew, or the whisky, or the pudding, or the surprise, or a little of all 
 combined, it would be difficult to say, but there sat the most accom- 
 plished angler in Ireland, with the oar in his hand, vacantly staring, 
 alternately at his mistress, the fast-revolving wheel, and the counte- 
 nance of his master, who was rapidly waxing very wroth indeed. 
 
 " Do you intend to see me run out ? I believe you are dinink, sir. 
 Pull ; why don't you pull ?" 
 
 As if suddenly roused to consciousness, the poor fellow glanced 
 for a moment over his shoulder to mark the direction the fish was 
 following, and then bent in earnest to his work. A sharp spurt 
 enabled me to regain a considerable quantity of loose capital, and 
 though the fetter which held Mr. Ferox was nothing stronger 
 than a small-sized trout-hook, still our hopes rose as we got into 
 deeper water and the pace diminished. Twenty minutes of delicious 
 anxiety, and our prize, yielding to pressure, slowly approached the 
 surface. Willie had long abandoned the oar, and, gaff in hand, was 
 peering into the purple water. 
 
 "I know'd it," he said at last with dogged deliberation; "I 
 know'd it were not a trout." 
 
 Now I had made up my mind that it ivas, and this obstinate 
 
 s 2 
 
260 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 perseverance in what I could not but regard as factious opposition, 
 provoked me greatly. However, I held my peace, feeling sure that 
 the hour of my triumph was at hand. 
 
 " It's a red salmon, master." 
 
 " Are you sure it is not a cod ? " 
 
 Even as the words came from my lips the line grew suddenly 
 slack, there was a slight plash, and then a dull sound as of a falling 
 body, and hope, doubt, and fear were alike at an end. My companion 
 was correct, and our first prize for the day proved to be a fine fish 
 of nearly 141b. Somehow I had not associated Lough Esk with 
 salmon, and had limited my expectations to white trout or a 
 ferox or two, so this unusual good fortune put us in the highest 
 spirits. The light air still held up, and was just sufficient to 
 produce the smallest possible curl on the water. We had yet 
 between two and three hours before us ; as evening came on, the 
 trout rose well, and when in the dusk we landed at the bridge fifteen 
 of these fish had been added to the bag. They were, however, no 
 longer the stout silvery creatures they had been six weeks before ; 
 they, like the year, were passing into the sere and yellow ; a darker 
 shade had fallen heavily on each ; bodies had become thinner, heads 
 and fins seemed to have grown larger ; in fact, they were rapidly 
 getting out of season, and this change was more marked in the lake 
 than on the river. 
 
 During the remainder of our stay at Donegal the weather con- 
 tinued too fine for first-rate angling, yet each day was spent either 
 on the Inver or the Lough. On the former, when there happened 
 to be a good breeze, we were able, by the aid of very small black 
 and red palmers, olives, clarets, and fiery browns, to get a few 
 trout ; but the full harvest of this lovely mountain river is only to 
 be reaped when the rain-clouds from the Atlantic are brooding over 
 the hills, and when a thousand rivulets are pouring their tribute of 
 brown water into the main channel. On the lake we did better, 
 picking up with the troll many a good ferox, no one of which, how- 
 ever, exceeded 6lb. in weight. Nor did we ever walk home in the 
 gloaming without a fair load of white trout, amply sufficient to 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 261 
 
 justify my praise of the autumn virtues of the loveliest mountain 
 water in the world. 
 
 The last morning of our stay has amved ; so has Mr. Doolan ; so 
 has the car ; and we pause before mounting to take a last look at 
 the bright river sweeping round the old walls of O'Donnell's Castle, 
 and to bid adieu to the restless, noisy jackdaws, whose loquacity, by 
 the way, we had long since graciously pardoned. But the best 
 friends must part ; a weary journey lies before us, and it will be 
 dark long ere we crawl over Crotty Bridge, and roll into the court- 
 yard of Lord Q-eorge Hill's hotel. 
 
 The district of the Rosses is separated from the more reclaimed 
 country about Qlenties and Ardara on the south by the river Gwee- 
 barra, the sandy channel of which is from a mile and a half to a 
 quarter of a mile in breadth throughout the last eight miles of its 
 course, and can only be passed by fording in dry weather. On the 
 whole line of coast from Bloody Foreland to Malin Beg Head there 
 is but one gentleman's seat ; this is at Ardara, a village at the head 
 of Loughrosmore Bay, from which there is a pretty good communi- 
 cation over the heights that stretch from Bluestack to Malin, 
 Beg, Killybeggs, and Donegal. Westward from Ardara the coast 
 again becomes precipitous, being lined with cliffs from 500 to 600 feet 
 in height on the northern side of the great promontory terminated 
 by Malin Beg Head. The loftiest cliffs, however, on the whole line 
 of coast, are those of Slieve League, immediately east of Malin Beg 
 where the height from the sea to the summit of the shelving rock 
 above, is at one point 1964 feet. 
 
 This description, extracted partly from the ''Memoirs of the 
 Ordnance Survey," introduces the reader to a vast wilderness of 
 swamp and mountain, glens, lakes, and rivers ; but it affords him no 
 aid whereby to feel all the magic of the scene. Passing through 
 Mount Charles, we entered on a track of moorland that appeared 
 endless. Hour after hour the car rolled along the solitary waste, 
 through Ardara, through Glenties, and across the Oanea, now 
 shrunk to half its size. 
 
 Wilder grew the landscape as we toiled slowly up the lofty 
 
262 A TEAE OF liberty; or, 
 
 mountain range which forms the eastern boundary of the Gweebarra, 
 and wilder still as we hurried down the long descent which ends at 
 the police barrack beyond the bridge. Whilst our wearied horse rested 
 we had ample time to admire this most solitary spot. On every side 
 it is shut out from the world by uninhabited wastes ; but the glen 
 through which rushes this glorious mountain river is indeed sublime. 
 Running between lofty hills, toiling with innumerable rocks, it frets 
 its way to Gweebarra Bridge, below which it forms a long, deep 
 reach, and then falls into the estuary. As an angling station I have 
 no personal experience of its merits, for though often halting here 
 to bait my horse, I never threw a fly on any of its pools. That it 
 affords admirable grilse and trout fishing in a wet season is, how- 
 ever, indisputable. More than one of my acquaintance have rented 
 it at various times, and I have no reason to believe they were ever 
 dissatisfied with their sport. 
 
 The sun was sinking as we walked up the steep road towards 
 Dunglow. Lights were shining in the hospitable house of my old 
 friend at Roshane, as we wended our weary way slowly towards the 
 ford, and when at length the kindly voice of the host, and the 
 sharper tones of his worthy wife, bade us welcome to Gweedore, the 
 night was far spent, and mistress and maid, master and man, were 
 as weary as any four wayfarers in Her Majesty's dominions. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVn. 
 
 Gweedore Poison Glen Dunlewey Lakes Arigle Valley of the Claddy 
 Angling Regulations "Waters of the Neighbourhood" The Middle Lake 
 A Mountain Storm Old Dan. 
 
 October 13. 
 In the most solitary nook of the Rosses, two lofty walls of nearly 
 perpendicular rock hem in a narrowing strip of level swamp, through 
 which flows a small and shallow stream. This pass is the Poison 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 263 
 
 Glen, the stream, the head water of the Claddy ; and happy is he 
 who for the first time stands on the gravelly strand of Dunlewey, to 
 gaze on a picture that may be paralleled but can hardly be sur- 
 passed. The little river (if the weather be fine) tinkles over the 
 stones, and is lost in the long lake, from whose margin Arigle, the 
 loftiest mountain in Donegal, rises abruptly. To the east is the dark 
 glen, whilst westward the valley widens and widens till it meets the 
 sea at Bunbeg. 
 
 Separated from the upper lake by a short stream (it is barely 
 a hundred yards long) is a second sheet of water of considerable 
 extent, on whose northern bank a large brook debouches. Then 
 there is another connecting river joining another small lake to the 
 chain. From this point the Claddy finally breaks away from all 
 restraint, and after lingering for a short space round the hotel, with 
 scarcely a moment's pause, runs its brief race of prodigal riot to the 
 sea. 
 
 Having thus roughly mapped out the scene of our future opera- 
 tions, we will as lightly sketch its sporting qualities. From the 
 latter part of Jime to the end of the season, the Claddy, after rain, 
 is all that man can desire ; pelding salmon, white and brown trout 
 in ample measure. When the water has shrunk, from a continuance 
 of fine weather, the angler will do well to shift his ground and take 
 to the lough, instead of tramping daily over the black and charred 
 peat bog. 
 
 At the bottom of the garden, boats belonging to the hotel are 
 always riding at anchor, and one of these will soon bear him to a new 
 field of operations : while, if there be anything like a breeze, the 
 middle lake will not send him home salmonless. Before reaching 
 this point the stranger will pass through a wide and shallow sheet 
 of water, thickly fringed with bulrushes. The pool is not remark- 
 ably tempting at first sight ; but only try it with three small flies of 
 any shade or pattern. I did so onie, and remained there the entire 
 day, pulling up to windward and then drifting to the lee shore. The 
 number of small but beautifully-shaped trout taken on that occasion 
 I should not like to record ; though I did hear subsequently that a 
 
264 A YEAR OF LIBERTY; OR, 
 
 certain inquisitive young lady counted as far as one hundred and 
 seventy-six, and then gave up the task in despair. 
 
 Separated from the river only by a narrow grass plot, a mountain 
 road, and a kitchen garden, stands the hotel, which well deserves a 
 few grateful words from me. Shall I record that the managers are 
 upright, civil, and obliging ; that the house is thoroughly comfort- 
 able ; that the food is excellent, and the cooking good ? All this 
 might indeed be said without fear of contradiction, but yet would 
 leave much untold. Three times it has been my good fortune to visit 
 Gweedore ; each time my visit was long and I felt at home. 
 
 Before me lies a printed form headed *' Fishing Regulations for 
 1866." As the reader may like to see them, I give the paper 
 verbatim et literatim. 
 
 Terms on which gentlemen staying at the Gweedore Hotel will be permitted 
 to fish in the rivers and lakes belonging to Lord George A. Hill are as 
 follows : 
 
 The lakes and that part of Gweedore river which belongs to his lordship may 
 be fished without any charge by persons staying at the hotel, they being 
 required to return all salmon caught to Mr. Cunningham, the manager of 
 Gweedore Hotel, and to pay 4s. per day for boat and two men, and 2s. 6c?. a 
 day for boat and one man. 
 
 Gentlemen fishing the river Claddy, between the lakes and Bunbeg, to pay 
 by the day, week, month, or season, according to the following rates ; 
 
 When all salmon caught are either returned to Mr. Cunningham or paid for 
 at market price, 
 
 Angler to pay per day 3 6 
 
 per week 18 
 
 ,, per month 2 2 
 
 ,, per season 5 5 
 
 When angler keeps all salmon caught by him, 
 
 He will pay per day 6 6 
 
 ,, per week 1 16 
 
 per month 4 4 
 
 per season 10 10 
 
 Gentlemen will be required to 46liver all salmon in good order to Mr. 
 Cunningham, and are requested to land as many as possible of the fish with a 
 net instead of with a gaflF, as the latter injures the fish veiy much, and 
 consequently lessens their value. 
 Gweedore, April, 1866. 
 
SALMON ANOLINQ IN mBLAND. 2fi5 
 
 About a couple of hundred yards below the house is a bridge, with 
 one high arch, over which runs a road straight across the moorland. 
 Dipping over the shoulder of a hill, it drops rather abruptly into a 
 narrow, boggy valley, through which flows the Gweedore river ; and 
 this, like the lakes, is free. The lower half mile is deep and still, 
 but from thence to the Fox's Leap the little stream presents a series 
 of charming pools. Let there be but half an air from the north- 
 north-west, and I know no more pleasant angling than is to be 
 found on that narrow, deep, and dark "lower half" mentioned 
 above. 
 
 The journey of the previous day had been severe. During the 
 earlier part of it, master and man padded up the hills for the mere 
 pleasure of the thing, and down, entirely out of consideration for 
 the quadruped ; and, as about five-eighths of the road consisted of 
 alternate ascent and descent, it is evident that we walked much and 
 drove little. As night fell the poor horse grew more and more 
 weary, and then we were obliged to use our legs. To add to my 
 troubles, some months previously a new member had been adopted 
 into the family. Jack, an infant at the time, had since become 
 a great cat, and in our various wanderings always insisted on 
 perching on somebody's shoulder. Unfortunately, that spoiled 
 animal usually elected me as bearer in ordinary, and during the 
 present journey rode at least twenty miles on my back from 
 which he would occasionally spring and race over the bog till 
 regularly planted. He was worse than the " old man of the 
 mountain," for that individual did sit quiet, whilst my cat o' 
 mountain was never still for a moment. Once I tried to lose him 
 in a hamlet through which we passed, and wept crocodile tears 
 with Madame on her bereavement, but an hour afterwards was 
 nearly frightened out of my wits by being unexpectedly clasped 
 round the neck from behind. Jack had a good master, and knew 
 it. My back aches even now at the remembrance of the anguish 
 I endured from the claws of that harpy. 
 
 Completely done, I went to bed supperless, and awoke, nearly as 
 tired as when I lay down, to see the glorious mountain peaks all 
 
266 . A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 around me showing clear and purple against the sky. Standing on 
 the grass plot, one glance at the river warned me to avoid it, but a 
 crisp north-west air whispered a pleasant song about the lake. At 
 this season the angler's day need not begin before ten, and seldom 
 extends much after five, so we strolled slowly back to make the most 
 of Mrs. Cunningham's capital breakfast. Seated at my side of the 
 table, quite unconscious of the pains endured on his account, was that 
 hairy monster Jack, eyeing alternately the milk and a polished 
 metallic cover, from beneath which savoury odours were rising It 
 was a pleasure to see him. Well, well ! I must make up my mind 
 to carry him all the days of his life. 
 
 Lobster and eggs, cutlet and toast, coffee and tea, are wonderful 
 restoratives ; at least, they restored me so completely that an hour 
 afterwards I shouted lustily for Willie and his mate, and was soon 
 moving warily over the shallows towards the middle lake. 
 
 Less than half way up its northern shore, a long bar of sand and 
 gravel stretched across the mouth of the mountain river previously 
 mentioned. Here salmon bred in the stream congregate till the late 
 autumn floods tempt them to ascend ; and as this season many fish 
 were on the lodge, we expected at this point to find sport. From 
 west to east the bank was tried with a dark cast of flies ; from east 
 to west it was flogged with the most sparkling beauties our book 
 contained. The first experiment was a total failure ; the second 
 attempt was little better. We rose a fish certainly, but that was 
 all. Five times out of six, unless a salmon be very stale, if he comes 
 once he will come again ; but we could make nothing out of this 
 one. Ten times the flies were changed. We tried him deep, we 
 tried him on the surface ; he was attacked from the shore side, from 
 the lake side, from the east, from the west. For one mortal hour 
 that creature stood siege ; then the baffled assailants drew off their 
 forces, and very crestfallen they were. Still following the north 
 shore, we presently reached a low reef of dark water-worn rocks, 
 where with renewed hope we recommenced our labours. When 
 about half over the cast a fine fish of 13lb, or 141b. sailed quietly 
 up to the dropper, but if his mouth was not closed I am much 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 267 
 
 mistaken. Taking exact marks, we rested on our oars for a short 
 time, and came over him again and again ; but neither would 
 he say a civil word to us, notwithstanding all our efforts to please 
 him, so we left the house promising to call again on our way back. 
 
 When we quitted the hotel there was eveiy probability of a fine 
 day, but for the last hour all things seemed to portend a change. 
 Over the dull grey sky countless small dark clouds were flying ; 
 mists first floated over the peaks of Arigle, and then lingered there, 
 growing denser and more dense till they rolled in heavy volumes 
 nearly to the base. Then the gusts of wind grew louder and louder, 
 darkening over the surface of the lake. A storm was at hand, and 
 the conduct of our scaly friends was explained. They had long 
 noticed what we, with our boasted superiority, had not been able to 
 see until it was close at hand. 
 
 How the big drops danced over the surface! How the wind 
 shrieked and raved through the mountain passes! Presently the 
 dry channels in every little hollow became wet, soon a thousand 
 streams were in motion, and in an incredibly short time after the 
 storm commenced they grew into torrents, and foamed and raged 
 down every glen. 
 
 The best cast was before us, for we had reached the short stretch 
 of river which connects the upper with the lower lake. In many 
 places salmon rise well during rain, especially when it is of a 
 character likely to produce a fresh ; and now it seemed that 
 Dunlewey was one of these. We had not made haK a dozen casts 
 when there was a deep eddying swirl at the dropper, and in an 
 instant all was life and animation. Who cared for the rain ? As to 
 our boatman, it was a normal state of existence. My faithful 
 comrade was as contented when wet as he was when dry, and for 
 his master he never thought about it at all, for the tackle was 
 light, the fish strong and active, and that person had enough to do 
 to attend to his business. The fight was too fierce to last ; furious 
 and desperate runs ended in leaps as wild and headlong. Now 
 here, now there, it seemed as if several salmon were continually 
 throwing themselves out of the water, and I could hardly believe such 
 
268 A YEAR OF liberty; or, 
 
 a series of summersaults were delivered by a single individual. 
 Flesh and blood could not stand such goings on ; the pace was too 
 good to last, and in less than ten minutes he was in the basket. 
 As quick as possible another and another were hooked, played, and 
 lost ; then a fourth fretted his brief hour on the stage and died. 
 Presently there was a lull, not in the storm but in the sport ; flies 
 were changed again and again, but in vain ; it was time to shift our 
 ground and pay the promised visit to our friend on " the reef." 
 
 I think he must have been anxiously expecting us, for no sooner 
 had the flies fallen on the water than he was at them. We had 
 guessed the fish to be 131b. or 141b. and were not far from the 
 mark, as when brought to scale he proved a little over the lesser 
 weight. 
 
 By this time the water in the boat was surging from side to side 
 with every motion, and the margin of the lake was already deeply 
 coloured by the boggy streams that poured into it. " There may 
 yet be time to send a line of invitation to our early acquaintance 
 of the morning ; so turn ahead, boys, at full speed." As we 
 approached, a large patch of black water with a semicircular outline 
 became too visible ; but was it all over the lodge ? That was a 
 question ; opinions differed. It reached certainly very near its outer 
 edge, but then the shy customer of the morning also dwelt in that 
 part of the house. Well, here goes one can but try ; and in less 
 time than it takes to record it, the rod was arching over my head, as 
 rods always should. Suddenly remembering how long the business 
 of life had been neglected, our new attache flew towards the shore 
 and dashed headlong up the boiling and discoloured torrent. The 
 whole thing happened in an instant. I could still feel the fish, but 
 I also felt that the line was foul, apparently twisted round one of the 
 countless blocks of granite which filled the bed of the river. No 
 orders were needed ; every man saw the danger and the remedy. In 
 twenty strokes the boat's keel grated on the strand, and Piscator, 
 reeling up as hard as he was able, floundered and stumbled up the 
 stream in a line with the impediment. As usual in such cases, the 
 moment the rod came over it the difficulty vanished, and the fish. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 260 
 
 once more feeling the strain, dashed on towards some stronghold 
 which perhaps then rose clear in his fancy. I dared not give him 
 an inch of line for fear of again getting foul, but rushed madly on 
 over ground that in cool blood I would not have faced for a trifle. 
 One false step would have been equivalent to a broken bone. 
 
 " There ain't no getting over this here, master." As my com- 
 panion remarked, there ivas a difficulty, for the rocks were abrupt, 
 far apart, and slippery as glass. Now came the tug of war. As the 
 fish shot against a strong column of falling water we gave him the 
 butt. For a brief space the forces were balanced and the onward 
 rush stayed ; a second more and he was weltering down, still 
 resisting the united action of the rod and the torrent. Willie 
 availed himseK of the opportunity, stepped lightly on a nearly sub- 
 merged stone, and as the salmon rolled past drove the steel home, 
 with just sufficient breath left to exclaim : 
 
 " If we hav'nt paid the full price for you, 'tis a pity." 
 All hands had taken in enough water for one day, so, hauling the 
 boat up high and dry, we turned her over on the heather, deposited 
 the oars in the nearest cabin, and set off homewards in such a deluge 
 of rain as rarely descends on man's devoted head. 
 
 The fairy web of night and day, 
 
 called twilight in vulgar prose, was falling around us, yet we 
 floundered merrily across the spongy bog, and splashed along the 
 road towards the hotel, not distant, but more than half obscured by 
 the mist, the rain, and the growing darkness. 
 
 What a wonderful thing is memory ! How vividly I now recalled 
 my earliest visit to Gweedore ! It seemed but yesterday that my first 
 season was drawing to a close. With the design of getting infor- 
 mation for the following year, I had been moving across a country 
 which to me was then a terra incognita, and had blundered by 
 chance into Dunfanaghy, to find Horn Head a delight, and M'Swine's 
 gun a perpetual excitement. How keenly I now remembered my 
 first introduction to the Midges, that close, sweltering night when 
 we drove under Muckish, on our way to Lord George's. How vividly 
 
270 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 the pleasure now came back to me with whicli, on the following 
 morning, I saw for the first time the river, the mountains, and the 
 glen ! Again I seemed walking homewards over the moor in a 
 deluge such as was now falling. It appeared but yesterday that, 
 confused by the storm, I took a wrong turn in the road, and should 
 in due time have found myself once more in Dunfanaghy, had it not 
 been for a little white-haired peasant, spiced with a concentrated 
 essence of peat-smoke 50 per cent, over proof. Poor old Dan ! my 
 comrade for many a day afterwards, how I bawled at you, roared at 
 you, spoke slowly, confidentially, soothingly ; and how your answer 
 was always the same gentle, patient smile ! You never knew that I 
 felt disposed to strangle you, nor how ashamed I was when, in the 
 extremity of your distress, you faltered out, '* No Engleesh." Do I 
 forget the five salmon you gaffed for me on the following day in 
 little more than an hour, out of a single pool at the bottom of that 
 boggy inclosure yonder, which was to have been called " Leech 
 Park ?" No, of course not ; no man ever does forget such things. 
 
 It was just such an evening as this, old comrade long dead, that 
 we walked home together. To-morrow I shall think of the reverend 
 locks that streamed from under your old blue bonnet as we sat 
 triumphant on the heathery rock by that round pool. Ah, me ! how 
 happy I was ! Such joy comes but once. You cannot share the 
 sport I hope again to meet there, yet you will be with me, for I shall 
 sit a few minutes where we sat, and dream once more of " the days 
 that are gone." 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 27 1 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 Expectation The Myrtle Grove In at the Death Ruined Cabin An 
 Impostor Down to Bunbeg Gweedore River, and how to get there 
 Mountain Lake Wo set out on a long Journey, but say nothing about it. 
 
 October 20. 
 All night long the river sang a pleasant tune ; there was not much 
 light or shade in the performance certainly, for it was rather of the 
 street minstrelsy order, which begins fortissimo and tries crescendo ; 
 nevertheless it was charming to me, its sole auditor, and might 
 therefore be considered a great success. 
 
 It was long before sleep visited my eyelids, and dawn was only 
 just stealing over the world when I awoke. The wind was still 
 gusty, freshening up with every shower ; huge masses of cloud drove 
 over the sky, leaving occasional bars of blue, and on the brown and 
 dripping moor sunshine and shade paved the earth with alternate 
 patches of umber and gold. In short, it was a fishing day ; nothing 
 was wanting ; clouds, wind, and water were just what they should 
 be ; they promised a rich harvest, and I longed to reap it. 
 
 It was hardly nine when we walked out of the yard towards the 
 bridge, Willie lagging a few steps behind to fix some new device on 
 the casting line. So short was the distance that I was over the bank 
 impatiently waiting on the rocky incline slippery from the seepings 
 of the bog before he came up. 
 
 At this point the Claddy, rushing through a smooth but deep 
 channel in the rock, formed a pool so tempting that for the life of 
 me I never could pass it without a trial. The lodge, however, did 
 not deserve my partiality, for, though I had often bestowed much 
 time and labour on it, the gains seldom repaid the trouble. On the 
 present occasion we fared no better than in former seasons, so we 
 moved rapidly down the water, making odd casts here and there, to 
 any point that might possibly hold a running fish, and soon came to 
 a spot known amongst our party as the " Myrtle Grove." 
 
^72 A YEAR OF liberty; OR, 
 
 Many of our readers will recognise the pool. It lies, perhaps, 
 two or three hundred yards below the bridge, having on its northern 
 bank an unusually luxuriant growth of the Myrica gale. At its 
 neck the river spreads out into a broad and shallow run, which, 
 narrowing as it goes, forms as lovely a stream as ever gladdened 
 an angler's eye, whilst at the bottom it steals away in a swift and 
 smooth shoot. Here many a good brown and white trout, and many 
 and many a salmon, has died. Here we had often arrived light, and 
 gone away loaded, and now, with the surface crisped over with a 
 sharp squall and darkened with a coming shower, we did not doubt 
 that a triumph was at hand. 
 
 How well we succeed when hope is high ! Light and true flew 
 the line. With what a taking motion the glittering insects darted 
 hither and thither through the brown water ! It could hardly have 
 been done better, yet we are within three feet of the end without a 
 rise. 
 
 " How du'ty and disagreeable ! " 
 
 The speaker had come up unnoticed. Turning, I saw a very 
 spruce gentleman sadly perplexed about his raiment, picking his 
 way with great care from one tuft of heather to another. Glancing 
 hastily back at the line, I was just in time to see a bright gleam at 
 the very edge of the pool, shooting towards the bottom. 
 
 " Oh, dear, what's the matter ? I wish you'd look where you are 
 going." 
 
 There was little opportunity of asking my new acquaintance what 
 was the cause of his grief, for the fish, on feeling the hook, had 
 dashed straight away and was racing round the turn through 
 rocks and broken water, at a pace that made delay impossible, and 
 elaborate courtesy a thing not to be thought of. Willie was already 
 thirty yards ahead, doing his utmost, whilst I was getting over the 
 ground, which was wet and broken, as best I might, in momentary 
 fear of a foul. These sharp bursts do not last long the pace is too 
 good. Little by little the line was gathered in ; for longer intervals 
 an olive tail fanned the water, and then a side yellow as burnished 
 gold gleamed for an instant on the surface. 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 273 
 
 "What is it?" to Gaff, who was panting and labouring, still 
 about twenty yards ahead. 
 
 *' Should say it's a trout, if puff he wasn't puff, puff so 
 big." 
 
 The fugitive, now in deeper water, turned to bay, but the rod was 
 by this time well over him, at high pressure, and he yielded. 
 
 What a group we should have made had some Leech been at 
 hand to sketch us ! In the centre a glorious trout, with diminutive 
 head, deep flank, broad shoulders, and a side tinged with the ripe 
 glow of a tropic sunset ; over him stooped the reader's old acquaint- 
 ance, fumbling in his pockets for the weighing machine, whilst, 
 wiping an inflamed countenance and getting choked in an abortive 
 effort to hide his laughter, stood the scribe. I was afraid to say so, 
 but in my inmost soul I wished the gentleman who knelt beside the 
 dying fish in an agony of delight, had a change of raiment ; never 
 did man want it more. His patent leathers would never again bear 
 a polish ; that waistcoat, lately white as snow, was henceforth and 
 for ever destined to wear a dirty purple hue. As for his Lincoln 
 and Bennett, and superfine frock coat, I shuddered as I looked, yet 
 the wretched man was utterly oblivious of his condition ; every 
 faculty was absorbed in the contemplation of the expiring 
 beauty. 
 
 "I would'nt have missed this sight for a pound," he said, stroking 
 the vermilion spots for the twentieth time. "I say, you there, you 
 are never going to squeeze it into that basket, are you," to Willie, 
 who, having bent the object of his idolatry head to tail, was about 
 to deposit him in the creel. 
 
 "Dear me" rubbing face, waistcoat, and inexpressibles with a 
 delicate pocket handkerchief till an admirable uniformity of shade 
 was attained "I must go home and change. Only let me have 
 him, I will take him back without brushing off a scale. What 
 weight did you say ? Oh, eight pounds and a half ; thank you." 
 
 Glad to be rid of such an incumbrance so early in the day, we 
 bade our new acquaintance good-bye and pushed on to the next cast. 
 This was a long nanow reach of deep water, with just such a stream 
 
 T 
 
274 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 as salmon love. Had there been but one in the lodge he could 
 hardly have helped rising, and to-day few rises were likely to be 
 made in vain ; that break so sharp looks like business. In such a 
 place no fish could have a chance ; there was no need to give line ; 
 from first to last a heavy exhausting strain was on him ; nothing 
 could stand it long. Sharp eyes were on the watch; the gaff was 
 always ready ; the next turn, '' Well done, Willie ; not bad for 
 number two." 
 
 Besting the water for a few minutes, and changing both drop and 
 trail, we tried it over again, and were so unfortunate as to play and 
 lose a fish at each attempt. 
 
 This round pool is the place where, many a day ago, during my 
 first visit, I landed five salmon. It was my opening season, and 
 success had been small. Once only in that happy time three fish 
 had fallen to my rod. Imagine, then, the pride with which I saw 
 Jive ranged side by side. My wildest imaginations were surpassed, 
 and henceforth nothing seemed impossible. " Dan, my poor dead 
 friend, there is not a drop wherewith to toast your memory, so I will 
 e'en sit on this tuft of blooming ling, smoke a meditative pipe, and 
 watch another hand fish your favourite lodge." The daydream was 
 a long one, for when my honest companion woke me up with the 
 inquiry, ''Will we go on now, master? I've put four flies over it," 
 the weight of the creel was increased by the addition of one salmon 
 and two white trout. 
 
 The Orotty is smaller than the Inver, but remains longer in order, 
 owing to the size of its lakes ; and during the Lammas floods I know 
 no prettier or more hopeful river on which to while away that 
 magical time. In the north, the flax destroys all autumnal fishing, 
 generally finding its way into the streams in spite of the water- 
 bailiffs during the first week of August; but here, happily, the 
 obnoxious plant does not thrive, and the unpoUuted Claddy is as 
 lively and sweet in August and September as * most other rivers 
 are in June and July. If the truth must be told, 'this station 
 is a great favourite with us, not only because it attains its best 
 condition when most other waters are useless, but also for the rare 
 
SALMON ANGLINO IN IRELAND. 275 
 
 beauty of the neiglibourhood, which, though most solitary, possesses 
 all the appliances of civilization. 
 
 Inexorable time, which drives us all forwards whether we will or 
 no, warns me to "move on." There, in the midst of that aguish 
 swamp, stand the walls of a cabin long deserted; and, close to the 
 ruin, the river forms a deep pool, which, in the changeful light, 
 seemed black as ink. Willie drew closer to his master, and pointed 
 with the butt end of the gaff to a small wave which, rolling towards 
 either bank, was at the moment breaking against the peaty shore. 
 No explanation was needed ; it was plain that a salmon above the 
 average of the water had risen, and equally plain that he was 
 marked out exultingly as an object to be murdered forthwith. 
 
 "How big ?" in a husky whisper to my companion, who at the 
 moment was rapidly turning over the leaves of our book. " Did 
 you see him ?" 
 
 " Why, no, master ; that is, not exactly, but I think I seen the 
 rim of his tail." 
 
 "Well, what was he like ?" 
 "Maybe he's fourteen pounds, maybe more." 
 No unnecessary time was lost, you may be sure. The casting-line 
 was speedily yet carefully examined. Knots and loops were in- 
 spected, and a new fly mounted for trail. Already the squall of 
 wind and rain darkened the surface, as the line dropped easily on 
 the water at the neck of the pool. Cast followed cast, and now we 
 were over him ay, and into him. 
 
 " The fish feels uncommonly light, Willie." 
 
 "Wait a wee, master; he don't know what's the matter yet. 
 He'll grow heavier presently. He's fourteen pounds if he's an 
 ounce." 
 
 Round and round his prison flew the captive, now on the point of 
 dashing out of the back door, now meditating an escape by running 
 straight ahead. Still, though active, there seemed nothing in him. 
 My poor companion looked from the bending rod to the tension of 
 the line, and from the line peered vainly into the black water. He 
 seemed puzzled. 
 
 T 2 
 
276 A TEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 " I can't make it out anyhow. I'm sure the salmon as rose wor 
 a big one for the Claddy, and this, whatever he is, ris at the same 
 spot. Oh, worra, worra, it isn't z,jish at all, at all." 
 
 The honest fellow was bending over the stream in order to get a 
 better insight into the difficulty, and now stood at my side with a 
 very crestfallen expression on his brown countenance. 
 
 " Bear on him, bear on him ! He ar'nt worth nothing ; we're 
 only losing time." 
 
 A stiff strain solved the mystery, by bringing a 41b. white trout 
 wallowing to the surface. The river was naiTow, and "Willie, seizing 
 the opportunity, put the gaff into him. At any other time we 
 should have admired the broad, thick, little fish, which was now 
 unceremoniously knocked on the head and huddled into the basket ; 
 but he was in disgrace, having practised shamefully on our credulity 
 by trying to pass himself off as a great person. What was to be 
 done next? Should we show the fly at once to the real Simon 
 Pure, and ask him then and there what he thought of it ? or should 
 we wait for a more favourable moment ? The squall had passed 
 and the sun was shining, so, without a word of discussion, we moved 
 off to the cast below, in a spirit of unanimity that was quite 
 delightful. 
 
 On and on we trudged, taking a trout now and then at rather 
 long intervals. For the last half hour a dark mass had been slowly 
 gathering on the horizon, and now began to mount rapidly towards 
 the zenith. The hour of trial was at hand, so we walked back to 
 be ready to take full advantage of the opportunity. It soon came ; 
 the sharp rain fell in a slanting sheet, whilst the little wavelets curled 
 and foamed. One cast above him and one over him he has it firm. 
 Now, Willie, we shall soon see whether you are correct as to weight. 
 What boots it to describe the closing scene ! A salmon well hooked 
 in a narrow river cannot escape ; he might as well send for a ^' sea 
 lawyer" and make his will at once. I do not know whether our 
 present patient had set his house in order, but I do know he 
 played his part manfully, kept the great enemy at bay as long as 
 he could, and died only when he could not help it. Though not 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 277 
 
 quite so heavy as liad been supposed, the fish proved to be the best 
 I ever landed at Gweedore, weighing a little over 13^1b. 
 
 In high glee we bent our course steadily downward, landed another 
 in the wild and rocky lodge some half mile above the Parsonage, 
 and yet another in a brimming pool nearly opposite that snug 
 dwelling of our old friend. Then came a lull in the sport, and 
 pausing a few minutes to look at the fish pass, we came to the 
 village of Bunbeg. 
 
 Here stands "the store," a huge omnium gathenmi kind of shop, 
 started many a year ago by his lordship as a depot whence his 
 poor tenants might procure all such articles as they could by any 
 possibility requu'e, at little more than cost price. Fame is hard to 
 win, and human praise is the last thing Lord George would desire, 
 but efforts such as his must at length succeed ; nor can I doubt that 
 even in this world his long patience will reap its reward, and a wild 
 tenantry will yet hail as their great benefactor the man whose long 
 suffering they have so cruelly tried, and whose love they have so 
 vainly laboured to extinguish. 
 
 The early autumn evening fell before we had fished half our way 
 home ; but we had done our best, as our backs testified, whilst we 
 trudged wearily along the last two miles of road. Did we wish the 
 load lighter? You may swear we did not. How well I can still 
 see our host's quiet smile as he surveyed the spoils spread on the 
 floor. 
 
 " Eight salmon and eleven trout. Youi' honour hasn't forgot the 
 way to do it." 
 
 " Where is the fish I sent home in the morning ? I should like to 
 look at it before the cook has it." 
 
 *' Do you mean the one the gentleman brought in ? " 
 
 ' Yes, exactly ; he kindly offered to take it." 
 
 " Why, he ordered it to be boiled for his early dinner, before 
 starting for Deny, and the servants finished it. I hope you did not 
 want it." 
 
 If ever I catch a curiosity again, see if I part with it on any 
 pretext whatsoever. 
 
278 A YEAE OF LIBEETY ; OE, 
 
 Through the night there were heavy dashes of rain, and the 
 Oladdy was as high as on the previous day. How tempting it 
 looked as we leaned for a moment over the parapet of the bridge ! 
 But there is an irresistible charm in novelty, so we walked a short 
 distance up the road, and then struck across the bog to the right. 
 The moor looked dark and dead; in every crack between every 
 hummock water was lying. Ever and anon a snipe sprang at our 
 feet, whilst the soft whistle of the golden plover seemed to say, 
 " Autumn is passing, and winter is at hand." In less than a quarter 
 of an hour we struck into a rough bridle path, half road, half 
 rivulet, and passing some ruinous cabins, soon stood at the head of the 
 inlet where the Gweedore river falls into the sea. For some distance 
 above this point the water is as still, and about half the width 
 of an ordinary canal. Level with its banks, it is readily acted on 
 by any wind from the north-west or south-east, and now, on this 
 breezy, showery day, was in excellent tune. In the first hundred 
 yards two salmon were risen, and one good trout bagged, but the 
 stout gentlemen first mentioned could not be brought to close 
 quarters. Again and again we returned at stated intervals, only to 
 find them perfectly impracticable ; so at last, making a virtue of 
 necessity, we bade them good-bye, and went our way. 
 
 With such wind and water sport was inevitable, and by the time 
 we reached the leap, we had made an excellent basket of fish, 
 ranging from |lb. to 41b. These higher pools, sheltered from the 
 breeze, were less productive than the lower ; still, having time to 
 spare, we took the rough and smooth as they came, and fished 
 straight on. Standing at the head of one of these, polished as a 
 sheet of glass, I played the flies quietly across till they reached the 
 side under a low bank of brambles, the dropper rising and falling in 
 a manner as lifelike as I could make it. Which was the most 
 astonished, the 11 -pounder who, intending to take possession of a 
 midge, received a sting, or a certain person who "was busily 
 thinking of nothing at all," it is impossible now to ascertain ; but 
 I do know that in that individual all other feelings were merged in 
 delight at his unexpected good fortune. The prize, however, had 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IBELAND. 279 
 
 yet to be won. Patience, a quick eye, and light hand did some- 
 thing towards the winning, when my gallant squire, seizing his 
 opportunity, rushed manfully into the iiielee and gave the coup de 
 grace to our enemy. This brought our afifairs to an end on the 
 Gweedore river. For the next five or six days we were faithful to 
 the Claddy; and as the water, though falling still, kept in good 
 trim, we did very well, bringing home each day two or three salmon 
 and more or less white trout. 
 
 Taken as a whole, Gweedore Hotel forms an admirable sporting 
 residence from the 20th of June to the end of the season. During 
 the last eight weeks of that time, the gun may be taken into 
 partnership with the rod ; but to the sportsman who prefers the 
 angle, I may say, without fear of contradiction, he will find few 
 days in which a salmon may not be taken, either in river or lough ; 
 and when this cannot be done, close to the house he will meet with as 
 good small brown trout fishing as can be had in the three kingdoms. 
 
 There is stiil one water in the neighbourhood which must be 
 mentioned. On the summit of the lofty mountain, in front of the 
 house, lies a tarn of ten or perhaps fifteen acres in extent (at all 
 events it does not look more), called Lough Na-Brack-Baddy, or the 
 Lake of the Saucy Trout. I never visited it but once, and then 
 during a long spell of impracticable weather. No boat, to my 
 knowledge, ever floated on its surface ; yet it holds noble fish, 
 unsurpassed for beauty of foim and excellence of flavour. The one 
 whose capture is recorded in the earlier part of this chapter came out 
 of it, and would in due time perhaps have returned, had he not 
 been taken in by your scribe, and subsequently devoured by an 
 unprincipled " mercantile ambassador." Old Dan was never weary 
 of describing its glories, and every word he spoke was true. Give me 
 a Curragh there in May and June, with a few good baits, and a cast 
 of ordinary lake flies, and I should be well content to bide the issue. 
 
 Private and confidential : Some day we intend to try it. Should 
 the experiment fall beloiv the level of our gi'eat expectations, depend 
 on it, my dear Sir, i/oit shall immediately receive the fullest infor- 
 mation of our exploits. 
 
280 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 Old Ground The Major discourses about Prawns Snipe-shooting Autumn 
 Surf Old Gun On the Mountain Banks of the Cummeragh My Friend's 
 Yacht We anchor the Horse, and launch forth on the Lower Lake Black 
 Trout Upper Lough Red Salmon We leave off in the dusk, and go 
 home in the dark. 
 
 October 28. 
 Once more we are journeying over well-known ground. As we 
 roll along the road from Killarney towards Killorglin the Reeks 
 show clear and purple ; a stream of sunshine lights up the Gap of 
 Dunloe, and the islands, clad in the gorgeous tints of deepening 
 autumn, invest the lake with unrivalled loveliness. 
 
 Summer is dead buried under the falling leaves. Winter is at 
 hand, and the air has a coolness which makes us wrap our cloaks 
 closer, and meditate a walk up the next hill. Again we pull up at 
 Killorglin, light our pipes, hear the news, and discourse of old com- 
 rades. Again we admire the lofty pine-clad hill near Lady Headley's. 
 Against the porch of the hotel leans a solitary rod, reminding us 
 that the season is not yet over, though the dull hue on the moor- 
 lands is more suggestive of the gun than the angle. Cahirciveen is 
 as wretched and dismal as ever. By-and-by we run merrily down 
 the long descent which terminates at Inny Bridge, and slowly 
 mounting the opposite hill pass the Butler Arms, with a triumphant 
 whoop from the driver, and soon pull up at the long, low, hospitable 
 
 cottage of my friend Major D , whom we had come thus far to 
 
 visit in fulfilment of a long-standing promise to kill a November 
 salmon. 
 
 What a joyous evening we spent in the snug little dining-room ! 
 The ladies were not banished, but drew round the sparkling bog 
 deal fire, talked of their mutual experiences, the angelic nature of 
 woman, the iniquity of mankind in general, and, in fact, attained 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 28l 
 
 the highest pinnacle of matronly happiness. The Major, whilst 
 scientifically compounding a fourth tumbler, opened his heart and 
 became communicative. He told how in the previous month " his 
 lady fair " required stock for her aquarium, and how, the weather 
 being impracticably fine, he shouldered his landing-net, ordered 
 Patsy to follow with the stable-bucket, and betook himself to the 
 sea- shore at low water. " The first few rock pools did not yield us 
 so much as a ' tittlebat ;' but the next scoop under a ledge fringed 
 with pink weed by Jove, sir " stirring his glass with dangerous 
 energy, " I had a dozen prawns as long as my finger and thick as my 
 thumb. Hang the aquarium, sir. I worked like a horse, and brought 
 home the bucket half full of these delicious crustaceae" (he was fond 
 of parading the profound learning to be gained from sixpenny 
 treatises, " about the foreshores and their inhabitants") "and by Jove, 
 sir, didn't Patsy and I stick to business so long as the springs lasted !" 
 When the prawns were discussed we came to matters of more imme- 
 diate concern. The host declared with his usual energy that fishing 
 was out of the question ; there had been a long spell of fine weather, 
 the Inny was nearly dry, and as for the lakes, there had not been a 
 ripple on one of them for a week. 
 
 It appeared, however, that my old friend had made ample prepa- 
 rations for our amusement. The morning broke as grey and calm 
 as those which preceded it. The potted crustaceae were all that 
 could be desired. Men, guns, dogs, game-bags, and ammunition 
 enough to decimate the country, were collected on the little grass 
 plot under the solitary window of our salle a manger. Yet stUl the 
 Major, with feet in his slippers and back to the fire, continued 
 puffing and puffing with a gan'ulous tranquillity that was mad- 
 dening. At length the gigantic cheroot came to an end, and the 
 procession getting under way, shaped a course nearly due east, and 
 in less than half an hour reached some small swampy inclosures at 
 the edge of the beautiful curved strand, through the centre of which 
 the Inny cleaves a passage to the sea. 
 
 The long ling, with narrow black fissures between the hummucks, 
 was literally full of snipe. The autumn had been unusually dry, and 
 
282 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 this swamp the deepest in the neighbourhood was in high request 
 with the birds. Crossing the bank, we had hardly taken three 
 steps before one sprung at our feet, and was knocked over by my 
 comrade in the first style of art. So numerous were they in this 
 small inclosure that the setters were coupled, and we walked the 
 birds up. During the next three or four hours we could not have 
 fired less than a hundred shots ; but whilst my friend performed 
 admirably, I did not kill one out of eight, and felt rejoiced to quit 
 the scene of my disgrace for a walk along the firm dry strand 
 leading to the swampy meadows which border the debouchment of 
 the Inny. 
 
 The heavy surf, so common on the Irish coast, at this season, was 
 thundering on the shore. Like charging squadrons the huge rollers 
 rushed on, their long white plumes floating "wildly as they hurled 
 themselves headlong on the stubborn sand, thickly strewn with lines 
 and patches of foam. What a picture of a battle field ! The gallant 
 onset the unflinching defence the shattered ranks the cumbered 
 gi'ound and fame enduring as the foam ! 
 
 Near low water-mark, half buried in the sand, lay a brass cannon 
 of antique workmanship. Heaven only knows how it came there I 
 When the Armada, battered by shot and crippled by tempests, fled 
 along the coast, and some goodly ship went down in the bay, this 
 gun perhaps then sank like lead in that moment of horror, and now, 
 uncovered by the surf, rose to recall the tale of wreck and disaster. 
 As we watched this memento of half forgotten wars, the advancing 
 tide flowed up to it; each wave heaped sand on its head, till it 
 seemed to sink down into the grave. None of the party had ever 
 seen it before, and half a century may elapse ere the spectre again 
 becomes visible to mortal eyes. 
 
 Before we separated for the night the Major pointed to a glass of 
 Admiral Fitzroy's. The crystals had risen an inch since morning. 
 " 'Twill be a near shave," he said, "but there will be a fresh in the 
 Inny before the month is over." 
 
 Cock shooting in the open is one of the most delightful of Irish 
 sports, provided you have a brace of setters that understand their 
 
SALMON ANQLING IN IRELAND. 2^3 
 
 work. It affords constant variety. Now an old grouse rises in a 
 terrible hurry ; yet, inveterate gi'umbler that he is, finds time to 
 complain of our invasion of his rights ; then a brown hare glides 
 through the heather ; next a snipe with shrill cry and wavering flight 
 rises before Ponto's nose, whilst a flock of golden plovers, with 
 plaintive note and rapid wing, flit past from time to time. From 
 each and all of these mountain races we had taken toll one day as 
 we traversed the heathy range to the westward of Lough Currane. 
 A change was at hand. Lower and lower drooped the clouds more 
 thick and fast fell the mist. The house at Derrynane close to its 
 solitary little harbour, where poor Dan O'Connell passed probably the 
 only peaceful days of his busy life, grew less and less distinct, and 
 finally vanished out of sight. The restless ocean lay under " the 
 blanket of the dark," but the drizzle did not extend to the south- 
 ward ; and the Cummeragh, its head waters, and the glorious range 
 of the Iveragh mountains spread out beneath us, gloomy yet clear. 
 For an hour or more we crouched under the lee of a boulder. No 
 change for the better occurred ; so, making the best of it, we trudged 
 home through the soaking drizzle. 
 
 After prolonged fine weather rain comes on slowly. The follow- 
 ing morning, though dull, was dry. No man could predict with 
 certainty how the day would turn out, but the Major was an old 
 campaigner, and always kept an eye to his communications. The 
 commander's arrangements for the day were eminently judicious. If 
 calm, we were to shoot ; if breezy, fish ; and, as it was calm at 
 nine a.m., we collected dogs and guns, together with a couple of 
 bare-legged boys to carry the game, and started for the wide tract 
 of bog and heather which stretched from the head of Lough 
 Currane to the sources of the Cummeragh. We had scarcely reached 
 the ground when the character of the day showed itself un- 
 mistakably. The hurly-burly had commenced, and we were in for 
 a westerly gale. Anxiously the Major looked down to the road 
 from time to time as we shot our way towards it, for Willie had 
 been left behind to put the boat on a cart and bring her on, in the 
 event of the wind getting up. It was blowing great guns, and just 
 
284 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 the weather for making a last successful trial of Larnaena and 
 E-a-li-a-nane. 
 
 The binocular was in frequent request. After a more careful 
 survey than usual my friend deposited the instrument in his pocket, 
 and gave a sigh of relief. 
 
 " Where did that fellow of yours steal the flag ? By Jove, sir, 
 there it is, flying in the stern-sheets of my boat." 
 
 On nearer inspection the bunting appeared to belong to no nation 
 in particular, and turned out to be a smart apron of Miss Mary's, 
 purloined for the occasion. 
 
 It was near one o'clock when we halted on the margin of the lower 
 lake. The miserable horse was taken from the shafts, tethered to 
 the mooring-rope, and anchored with the boat's kedge. The cart 
 was turned on end, and served as a landmark, to which the dogs 
 were secured, representing the owners of the property. The small 
 chain of lakes we were about to try formed the head of the Water- 
 ville fishery, and after the first autumn spates are usually full of 
 fish. We were soon afloat and sculling round the low treeless shores, 
 composed of patches of shingle and peat. Ere long the Major was 
 into something tolerably heavy, but languid as a fine lady ; and in 
 three or four minutes one of the boys landed a trout called white, 
 but now black as my boot, and reduced to about half its summer 
 weight. My military friend admired many old things, particularly 
 old wine and whisky, but ancient fish were his abomination. " Right 
 about face, in with him ! " was the order. Presently it came to my 
 turn. Then we were engaged simultaneously ; but the cry of the 
 ruthless Major was the same, " In with him ! " In fact, the inhabi- 
 tants of the water seemed to have gone into a general mourning. 
 After losing an hour and more we got the boat into the upper lake, 
 and here we succeeded in landing half a score of trout in decent 
 condition. A wilder day I have seldom seen. Larnaena and 
 E-a-li-a-nane mere mountain pools were breaking with a sullen 
 plash on their pebbly margins, the low clouds were hurrying along 
 in black and threatening masses, and the dark, overhanging hills 
 looked particularly savage. My companion, however, was bent on 
 
BALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 285 
 
 getting a salmon, and refused to knock ofiP whilst a chance remained. 
 Premature twilight was coming on over the desolate mountains as we 
 reached the southernmost side of the lake, where a' small stream ran 
 murmuringly over the stones. It was now or never. 
 
 *' There, take it ! You have kept us waiting long enough," 
 remarked my comrade, striking so vigorously that I turned my 
 head to see the result, and at the same moment became conscious 
 of an increasing weight on my own rod, and a severe voice at my ear, 
 '' There he is ! Why dont you give him the butt." 
 
 How often it happens that perseverance wins the fight at the 
 eleventh hour ! He who has done so knows how sweet such triumph 
 is. It made the Major less critical, and the Scribe excellent 
 company. If the truth must be told, the pair of salmon we landed 
 some fifteen minutes after were far from being in condition, for one 
 was black as my hat and the other red as a brick ; but the soldier's 
 eyesight suddenly became imperfect. " There, pack them up ; 
 'tis too dark to distinguish colours. We'll decide on the shade 
 to-morrow." 
 
 By the time rods and tackle were packed there was little light 
 to spare, and when we reached the lower lake it was dark. As 
 to the exact point at which cart and quadruped were to be found, no 
 two of the party could agree. After a time a dismal howling was 
 heard, which on our nearer approach was exchanged for joyous 
 barking. Even the ill-used horse welcomed us with a subdued 
 neigh. 
 
 Whilst the nag was being harnessed, the Major, with increasing 
 irritability, fumbled silently about the wheels of the cart. " What 
 had he lost? Could we assist him?" These and similar 
 politenesses for a time produced no reply. When at length he 
 spoke, loud was the voice and powerful the brogue, and so fierce 
 was the flame of his wrath, that it licked the varnish clean off his 
 courtesy. 
 
 " Martin," he said, " it's hanged ye'U be, so sure as my name is 
 Peter Dowd. Look at this. Here's the rope, but where*s Ponto, ye 
 thief of the world ? " 
 
286 A YEAE OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 The missing setter had gnawed his fetters and levanted. This 
 was bad enough ; but, unfortunately, I have sometimes an awful 
 inclination to laugh at unseasonable occasions, and the funeral 
 oration, pronounced immediately after by my disconsolate friend, 
 proved irresistible. 
 
 ' He's gone ; the like of him is not to be found under the canopy. 
 I never will see him again ! Never ! Oh, never ! " 
 
 The poor Major's fury was too great for words, and in solemn 
 silence we jolted on through the rain and the darkness. Once 
 already on this luckless night we had been capsized into the bog, yet 
 the lips of the insulted warrior were hermetically sealed. Once more 
 we were sprawling in the swamp, and then those awful portals were 
 for an instant unclosed. 
 
 " The villain will be hanged some day, that's a comfort ; but oh, 
 murther ! I never will see him gain ! Never ! Never ! " 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 The Last Act The Inny in order Disinterested Advice The Major distin- 
 guishes himself Grand Total Homewards De mortuis The wind up 
 Vale. 
 
 The curtain rises for the last act of our domestic drama. Over the 
 dripping and cheerless mountains raves the boisterous winter wind. 
 The rain ceased at midnight ; the glass is getting up, and the Inny, 
 according to my host's prediction, is in condition for this, the closing 
 day of the season. From the energy and industry displayed on the 
 previous evening, the preparations seemed more suitable to the 
 commencement than to the close of a campaign. Two new trebles 
 and twice that number of single casting lines were made, a dozen 
 flies fabricated, and the rod and wheel which had seen so much 
 service were carefully inspected and pronounced in good working 
 
SALMON ANGLING IN IRELAND. 287 
 
 order. Exposed to the influence the Major caught the infection, 
 and came down to breakfast with his lower extremities cased in 
 stout boots, instead of the gay embroidered slippers in which on less 
 momentous occasions he was wont to indulge. The short day 
 could ill afford luxurious hours, so my old friend gave up his cheroot, 
 lit a mighty pipe as he crossed the threshold (an example instantly 
 followed by our attendants), and under a strong head of steam, 
 we were soon running down the incline at the bottom of which flows 
 the Inny. 
 
 This pretty mountain stream boasts a fair share of heavy spring 
 trout pe?'haps also a few early salmon, and might, if the freshes 
 were carefully watched, occasionally afford good angling in April 
 and May ; but being regularly netted by the proprietor, is of 
 little avail except immediately after each spate. When the annual 
 close time commences a good stock soon accumulates ; two months 
 had now elapsed since the nets were withdrawn, and the angling at 
 least as far as numbers went had reached its culminating point. 
 
 The great prolongation of the rod season was no doubt intended 
 as a boon to the upper proprietors ; nevertheless, this gain was 
 obtained from the public loss. It was a sort of robbing Peter to 
 pay Paul, and legislation in the endeavour to propitiate extreme 
 interests steered the dangerous middle course which so often brings 
 the good ship St. Stephen on the rocks. During the last week of 
 September not one fish in fifty is in a condition fit for the table ; 
 and each day of the succeeding month renders a seasonable salmon 
 a greater rarity. After all, the diflBculty was to insert the edge of 
 the wedge : happily that useful implement is now in situ, and only 
 waits a little pressure from without, to be driven home. The 
 current of popular opinion is setting strongly in favour of river 
 reform ; even the rinderpest is not an unmixed evil, since by 
 increasing the price of one kind of animal food it has directed men's 
 minds to a source of supply hitherto neglected. But if we hope 
 to raise our waters within any reasonable period to the rank of a 
 national benefit, it can alone be realised by increasing the annual 
 close time. What we want is a suflBcient stock, and this can only 
 
288 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 be obtained by legislation checking, at least for the present, undue 
 consumption. If the net season ended July 25, and the angling 
 season closed September 25, the fisheries would be benefited, the 
 sportsman satisfied, and the upper proprietors possessed of a property 
 worth improving. If these last were certain of having their waters 
 well stocked for a period of two months, artificial propagation 
 twenty-five times as profitable as the natural method would pay, 
 and soon become universal. Legislation in the dark ages of our 
 fisheries was eminently one-sided ; to be successful it must be 
 impartial. Monopolies do not answer. The time has not yet 
 arrived when the doctrine of share and share alike, as applied to 
 river proprietors, will be tolerated ; it must come, however, and 
 then, and not till then, will our water farms yield their strength. 
 Some day our streams, from the source to the sea, will represent so 
 many joint-stock companies, with shares in the ratio of ripal 
 rights, bound together for mutual defence and by a common interest. 
 I repeat that this time will come, and I can only add, the sooner the 
 better. 
 
 " Nice cast that," observed my host, with a due regard to his 
 own interest, pointing to a deep run in a straight line with the 
 bridge. " You try it whilst I move a little higher up." 
 
 In this wicked world who can be safe from the arts of designing 
 men ? Here was this faithless commander, with fair speeches, 
 beguiling his guest out of the best pool on the Inny. Even so, old 
 friend ; but we know the water quite as well as you do, and it will 
 go hard if you do not find a Eoland for your Oliver before the day 
 ends. 
 
 About two-thirds down the lodge was a deep nick cut in the bank 
 by drainage from the bog, and at this point we obtained the first 
 rise. Instinctively glancing up the stream (whilst stretching out my 
 hand to catch the casting-line, in order to change the trail) I saw one 
 of the Major's imps warily watching a fish his wicked old master was 
 playing with enviable firmness and skill. Did his neighbours covet 
 his ill-gotten gains ? I fear they did. Making the best of a bad 
 business, we came over our salmon carefully, and were rewarded with 
 
SALMON ANOLINa IN ffiELAND. 289 
 
 a second rise, and in due time with a third, fourl^, fifth, and sixth. 
 More than half an hour had been spent, but not a scale had as yet 
 found its way into our pannier. 
 
 *' There, he's stuck in a third," remarked my poor companion 
 with the calmness of despair. " It's all right," tossing the casting- 
 line in the air ; *' try him once more, any way." 
 
 One of the honest fellow's peculiarities was a jealous hatred of any 
 man who chanced to kill a fish in his immediate neighbourhood. 
 Such an act always appeared to him as a personal injury, and, like 
 many of the followers of Knox, having a long memory for disagree- 
 ables, he usually held a large amount of unpaid debts, which sooner 
 or later he contrived to liquidate. 
 
 Stealing involuntary glances at my fortunate neighbour, we once 
 more came over our fish, who this time made a dashing plunge at 
 the dropper, more in sport than earnest ; but it is unwise playing 
 with edged tools, and so our shy acquaintance foujid when the trail 
 sank deep in his flank. Master and man were savage, and the 
 tackle was new. Strong measures were in fashion ; and a desperate 
 strain was kept up, and as the salmon wallowed over the surface 
 "Willie made a successful dash at him with the gaff. Huddling our 
 first prize into the basket, we proceeded to take vengeance on our 
 treacherous host by keeping ahead and fishing all the best pools we 
 could reach first. 
 
 But the veteran was not to be done in this way. As we hurried 
 on, he hung back, placing a longer and longer interval of time 
 between us, thus making the pools we had too lightly fished " as 
 good as new " for himself. Whenever we caught sight of him the 
 wicked old commander seemed always to prosper, and in the opinion 
 of my jealous attendant, must have bagged at least half a score of 
 fish. It really was provoking, but do what we would, success still held 
 aloof. If we hooked a salmon, some disaster was sure to attend us. 
 Two had been lost by the mouth giving way, and a third had been 
 knocked off the line when ready for the gaff, by an officious trout 
 taking the other fly ; and still the Major's rod seemed to continue in 
 a chronic "state of bend," 
 
 IT 
 
290 A YEAR OF LIBERTY ; OR, 
 
 Less than two miles above the bridge was a deep pool of consi- 
 derable extent, having on its western bank a long low rock, and 
 here our sport commenced. The place seemed full of fish ; pleasant 
 rivalry had wound us up ; everything went like clockwork, and when 
 the soldier came hurriedly over the fence it was to find us still in 
 possession, and on the point of landing our sixth salmon. Notwith- 
 standing the splendour of this closing scene, the Major was still 
 confident of having won the honours of the day. 
 
 " I'll bet you a ten-gallon cask of potheen, Eory and I will make 
 the best show. Come, Willie, turn out your creel. What! only 
 six fish and a beggarly half score of trout ? Eory, show the gentle- 
 men what we can do." 
 
 With a malicious grin that imp slowly drew out one salmon after 
 another, arranging them in order on the turf. Then appeared the 
 trout I What a show they made ! Ten of the former, eighteen of the 
 latter. " Ah ! you may look," to my follower, who was suspi- 
 ciously examining their mouths ; " every soul of them caught fair. 
 There, pack up the game ; the ground is soft ; twilight is falling, 
 and we must be on the road before dark." 
 
 With a sigh I gave up the rod, and felt as if parting from a friend. 
 For nine months we had been inseparable. In heat and cold, in 
 storm and sunshine, it had been the humble minister of unal- 
 loyed happiness, such as I shall probably never more enjoy. In its 
 silence I had not been solitary ; it had neither deceived nor betrayed 
 me ; and of whom else could I say as much ? That night we drank 
 a solemn bumper to the memory of the departed season, and made 
 vain promises for the time to come. No one believed them. Yet 
 they served to cheat us of an hour of sorrow. Another week brought 
 our visit to an end, and made the "Year of Liberty " a thing of the 
 past. Forty-eight hours after I was once more at work amongst the 
 poor, the sick, and the wretched, whose jubilee may commence in a 
 future world, but whose lot can never be bright in the present. 
 
 Noverriber 10, 1866. Since the last sentence was written scarce a 
 year has passed, yet in that brief space important events have 
 occurred in our little household. Poor Mary, having sworn "to 
 
SALMON ANQLINQ IN IRELAND. 291 
 
 love, honour, and obey," is now in the tropics fighting the battle 
 of life. The good old Colonel has gone the way of all flesh, and 
 the grass is not yet green on the sod which covers the remains of 
 one who was in infancy my protector, in youth my guide, and in 
 manhood my best friend. 
 
 My gentle companion, however, sits near me ; her cheek, perhaps, 
 a thought more pale; whilst Willie is drawing the cork from a 
 bottle of hock. The lamps are lit, dessert is on the table, the ex 
 officio butler has received his usual glass of wine, and yet lingers 
 about the room. 
 
 " Them painters is gone at last, mum. The door looks illegant ; 
 the holes where the screws went is stopped up, so that no crathur 
 on earth can see where they wor, and I've buried the brass plate 
 imder the sawdust in the binn the master filled this mom. I s'pose 
 it's little we'll be here now, as every year will be a year of liberty ; 
 but oh ! master, won't we miss poor Mary l" 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 A TOURIST-ANGLER^S GUIDE. 
 
 Tms Guide, being a partial epitome of the "Year of Liberty," 
 has been added to the work more for the benefit of the wandering 
 sportsman than for perusal by the general reader, its design being to 
 show the former at a glance the principal lakes and rivers that 
 lie in his route. Before proceeding further, however, it may be 
 advisable to say a few words regarding the arrangement which has 
 been adopted. 
 
 Designed rather for strangers than residents, the island has been 
 divided by arbitrary lines into strips or districts, generally extending 
 from one sea-board to another, each division being in direct con- 
 nection with some great route, leading to Ireland from England, 
 Wales, or Scotland. For example : whilst the line from Holyhead 
 to Kingstown places the angling-tourist at the edge of the great 
 central lake district, that from Bristol to Cork would bring him at 
 once into the south-west division of the county. 
 
 The reader must not suppose that all the waters in the several 
 districts are here mentioned. Lakes and rivers, ordinarily of inferior 
 sporting quality, are so numerous, that if each were to appear in 
 review before us, a volume, not a chapter, would be required for 
 their illustration. But though these are now passed by in silence, 
 the angler must not imagine they are beneath his notice; on the 
 contrary numbers of the smaller streams on the coast, though 
 unsuitable for stations, occasionally afford admirable sport after 
 rain. The tourist should therefore constantly have an eye to 
 business, and everywhere institute diligent inquiries as to the con- 
 dition necessary to bring each up to concert pitch. By this means 
 
APPENDIX. 293 
 
 he will frequently in the summer and autumn earn many days which 
 will henceforth and for ever be laid up in the storehouse of memory 
 amongst his treasures, 
 
 Having premised thus much, we will start vid Glasgow for Sligo, 
 and, if the reader will draw a line from the latter town to Galway, 
 he will find we have given him the whole of Mayo and a comer of 
 county Sligo as the district in which to make his 
 
 FmsT Angling Toub. 
 
 Lough Gill lies close to the town of Sligo, and affords good salmon 
 angling in the spring. Permission is given on application. Hotels 
 excellent. Private lodgings can be obtained. 
 
 Ballisadare River is about five miles distant, and yields admirable 
 salmon and grilse-fishing from May to the end of the season. The 
 present proprietor has, we hear, built a comfortable sporting-lodge, 
 and proposes to let the angling and house for 100^. per annum, a 
 moderate sum if the equivalents are taken into consideration. 
 
 The Eashey is well worth a visit in summer or autumn ; the 
 Great Western coach-road to Ballina crosses the stream. 
 
 The Moy affords the best free angling in the kingdom. In the 
 latter part of April this river will well repay the sportsman, though 
 his journey cost him time and money. At this season he will meet 
 only with salmon, the grilse not arriving until about the 15th of 
 June. Should he wish for more general angling. Lough Conn, 
 whilst holding the king of fish, will afford admirable sport in 
 trolling. The lake abounds with heavy trout, pike, and perch. 
 Pontoon is about an hour's drive from Ballina, and should on 
 no account be neglected. In June the grilse throng into the Moy, 
 and the sport is as good above as below the weirs. The hotel is 
 very comfortable, and private lodgings can be obtained. Should 
 the tourist follow the coast road from this place to Belmullet, he 
 will cross several small streams which, if taken at the fall of a 
 fresh, may afford good white trout fishing in the autunm. Con- 
 tinuing his course along the shores of Black Sod Bay he reaches the 
 debouchment of 
 
294 A YEAR OP LIBERTY. 
 
 The Owenmore River. A finer looking stream than this can 
 hardly be imagined. It is not, however, as good as it looks. 
 Over netting has for the present, injured the stock to a great 
 extent. 
 
 Ballycroy River lies a few miles to the southward, and affords 
 excellent white trout and salmon fishing {vide Maxwell's "Wild 
 Sports of the West"). This river is usually let to one or two 
 rods. Extensive grouse moors rise around its head waters. At the 
 head of Chew Bay lies the small town of Newport, which forms 
 admirable head quarters during the summer and autumn. This 
 station commands 
 
 The Beltra River, Burrishoole Lake, and Tyrena (a mere 
 mountain stream). The Beltra affords a little salmon fishing, and 
 fair sport with white trout. This river has been occasionally 
 let to a single rod ; leave, however, may generally be obtained. 
 Burrishoole Lake contains plenty of trout, and a fair stock of grilse ; 
 whilst Tyrena, in wet weather, yields admirable angling. Following 
 the coast road to Galway, the tourist first reaches 
 
 The Errive, which is generally, however, let as a private water, 
 and the same may be said of Delphi. A little farther to the west 
 lie the river and connecting lakes of 
 
 Ballinahinch. Here angling can always be obtained on fair terms. 
 All nets are withdrawn, so very superior sport may be expected 
 during the next five years. 
 
 The Screebe and Furness. The chain of lakes constituting this 
 fishery, afford admirable angling for white trout during the autumn ; 
 they also contain salmon ; close to the best lake is a comfortable 
 lodge fitted up for the reception of tourists ; the terms are about 
 three guineas a week per rod. 
 
 Costello belongs to a club, and has little interest for the tourist- 
 angler. 
 
 The Spiddal is usually let for 100^. per annum, and in average 
 seasons is well worth the money. 
 
 Galway. The angling here from April to the end of the season 
 is too well known to require comment. We have now reached the 
 
APPENDIX. 295 
 
 south-west extremity of the line which marks the boundary of our 
 first tour. Passing inland, we come to 
 
 Lough CoiTib and Lough Mask. The former affords excellent 
 salmon and trout fishing ; the trolling is very good, the best station 
 is Oughterade. 
 
 The Second Tour (vi& Glasgow and Londonderry). 
 
 This north-north-west division is bounded by the Atlantic, and 
 by a line stretching from Lough Foyle, to the village of Bundoran. 
 A short drive of eight or ten miles brings the tourist to the shores 
 of Lough S willy, crossing which he arrives at Eathmelton. 
 
 Lough Fern (the property of Sir James Stuart), is one of the 
 earliest lakes in the kingdom, which the generous owner places at 
 the disposal of the angler; leave can be obtained through the 
 landlord of the hotel. Two or three spring fish and a basket of 
 trout may safely be calculated upon in any good day during March, 
 April, or May. 
 
 The Doe Castle Fishery lies a few miles north of Eathmelton. 
 The river and lake hold very early salmon ; the proprietor leases the 
 angling. Terms can be ascertained on application. The grilse and 
 white trout fishing during the summer and autumn are admirable ; 
 eight or ten miles to the westward, bring the tourist to Dunfanaghy. 
 A short distance beyond the village stands the union workhouse, near 
 which is a lake affording excellent brown trout, ranging from one to 
 six pounds. There is also another lake not far distant on the 
 road to Doe Castle, said to abound with char. Ten miles to the 
 south-west is 
 
 Gweedore. This fishery, so far as the angler is concerned, 
 consists of a chain of lakes, together with the Crotty and Gweedore 
 rivers. The accommodation at the hotel is all that can be desired. 
 About a moiety of the angling is free to anyone staying in the 
 house, the remainder is let by tickets. Terms can be seen by 
 reference to the chapter on Gweedore. The botanist, the angler, 
 and the artist will be equally delighted by a visit to this district. 
 A drive of two hours enables the traveller to reach 
 
296 A YEAR OF LIBEETY. 
 
 Dunglow, near which is a small stream, draining a chain of 
 lakes. During the autumn spates fair white trout fishing may 
 here be met with, and some of the lakes are said I believe with 
 truth to hold large trout. Accommodation by no means luxurious. 
 Ten miles to the south-south-west runs 
 
 The Gweeharra River, which is occasionally leased to the rod. If 
 not let, permission may be obtained. Within an easy walk of 
 Gweebarra-bridge are many good lakes ; the district is rather inac- 
 cessible, but the grilse fishing in the river is excellent shoidd the 
 season be wet. A few miles to the south-west is the village of 
 Glenties, close to which flows 
 
 The Oanea River. ^Here white trout are plentiful in the autumn ; 
 some salmon may also be taken. Accommodation can be obtained 
 at the village Inn. Due south lies Killybegs, and near it the 
 hamlet of Dunkeneely, where is a stream worth trying should the 
 weather be wet. A little beyond. 
 
 The Inver River crosses the high road to Donegal. This water is 
 the property of Mr. Sinclair, to whose kindness many a stranger is 
 indebted for a day or two's admirable angling. The Inver is a late 
 river. Three miles farther on is the town of Donegal, through 
 which flows 
 
 The Esk. ^Lough Esk is its head water. This lake holds plenty 
 of white and brown trout ; the fishing is good in August, September, 
 and October ; permission can generally be obtained on application. 
 Ten miles to the south lies the town of Ballyshannon. 
 
 The Erne ajffords the finest summer angling in Ireland. The 
 fishing is usually let to about eight rods ; for particulars, application 
 should be made to the lessee. Four miles above Ballyshannon is 
 Beleek, which is a good station for Lough Erne, on whose wide 
 waters excellent sport may be had with red trout and pike. 
 
 Lough Melvin (good in spring ; better in summer) is three 
 miles distant. Scott's hotel at Garrison is the best station from 
 which to fish this lake, which contains salmon, grilse, gillaroo, and 
 the salmo-ferox. The last attains a large size here. 
 
 The Drowse drains Lough Melvin, and falls into the sea at 
 
APPENDIX. 297 
 
 the village of Bundoran. In the spring some salmon may be taken 
 in it, and during the autumn freshes this stream affords capital 
 spori;. The tourist has now reached the end of his district ; should 
 he return to Derry, 
 
 The Swilly may be worth his notice for a few days ; whilst by 
 following 
 
 The Finn, he may once more find himself at Derry with a full 
 pannier. 
 
 The Third Toue {via Stranraer and Lame). 
 
 The lines from "the Lakes" via Morecombe and Fleetwood, will 
 bring tourists from Cumberland, Yorkshire, and Lancashire to Belfast, 
 which commands the district we are about to visit equally well 
 with Lame. The section marked out for our third tour contains 
 the counties of Antrim, Derry, Down, Tyrone and Armagh. La the 
 centre of these lies 
 
 Lough Neagh, the most extensive sheet of water in the island, into 
 which the greater part of the rivers of the foregoing counties 
 debouch. During the autumn 
 
 The Maine River affords very superior trout fishing, as at that 
 season the great lakers are running up ; the same thing may be said 
 in a less degree of many of the affluents of this inland sea. Toome 
 Bridge is probably the best station for Lough Neagh, whilst 
 Eandalstown forms comfortable quarters for the Maine River . The 
 fish of this district are probably the heaviest in Lreland. 
 
 The Bann, the only outlet of Lough Neagh, is a noble river ; the 
 part best suited for salmon-angling is situated two or three miles 
 above Coleraine, and is rented by a club of a dozen members, each of 
 whom has the privilege of taking out a friend. Membership is 
 a thing to be desired, as the sport is good and the terms very 
 moderate. 
 
 The Bush flows into the sea close to the Giants' Causeway. This 
 river, however, has little interest for the tourist-angler, being always 
 in private hands ; it is at present leased to two rods. 
 
 Between Fairhead and Lame are two or three small rivers, the 
 
 X 
 
298 A YEAR OF LIBERTY. 
 
 principal of whicli falls into the sea at Ballycastle, but for sporting 
 purposes they are of little value. 
 
 The Fourth Tour (via Holyhead and Dublin). 
 
 The district now to be visited by the angler contains a great chain 
 of lakes, extending with little intermission across the centre of the 
 island, from Mullingar to Sligo, comprising Virginia, Belvedere, 
 Dereveragh, Lough Owel, Lough Kay, Lough Garra, Lough Arrow, 
 and many others. Mullingar commands Belvedere and Lough Owel. 
 The green-drake fishing on these two lakes is excellent. 
 
 Dereveragh also is admirable in the May-jfly season. Boyle is the 
 best station for Lough Kay, Lough Garra, and Lough Arrow, which 
 are second to none in the kingdom in May and June. It may not 
 be out of place to remark here that all these lakes afford first-class 
 trolling in the summer and autumn, containing, besides trout, heavy 
 pike and perch. I know no more delightful angling tour than 
 might be made by a seriatim visit to the waters just mentioned. 
 
 The Fifth Tour (via Bristol and Waterford). 
 
 The angler, by following a line drawn between Waterford and 
 Limerick, commands several salmon stations on the Suir and the 
 Barrow, nearly all of which can be fished free of charge. The sport 
 to be met with in this wide range is often excellent throughout the 
 season. 
 
 The Greater Blackwater, between Lismore and Fermoy, is second 
 to none in the kingdom. Previous to the erection of the Queen's 
 Gap, Lismore formed a charming station during the spring and 
 summer ; the best angling, however, is now obtained above this 
 point. Some stands are generally to be let ; there is a heavy run of 
 spring salmon in the Blackwater. A few hours by rail brings the 
 angler to the shores of the Shannon ; nearly all the casts about 
 Castle Oonnell by far the best portion of the river are let at a 
 high figure ; the sportsman, however, who follows the course of 
 this noble river, will obtain some of the finest trout-angling to be 
 met with in the island. 
 
APPENDIX. 299 
 
 The Sixth Toue (via Bristol and Cork) 
 
 Commands the counties of Cork and Kerry. The River Lee offers 
 no mean salmon angling in spring and during the summer. Grilse 
 are pretty numerous. All particulars respecting this water can be 
 obtained by application to Mr. Hackett, fishing tackle-maker, Cork. 
 A pleasant run by rail brings us to Killarney, where we have 
 the Upper, Middle, and Lower Lakes the Laune, the Flesk, and 
 Lough Guttane. The lakes of Killarney are free, and would afford 
 first-rate spring trolling, were it not for the cross lines of the 
 professionals. 
 
 The Laune occasionally gives a good day in spring, but is better 
 during the summer and autumn. The trout trolling on 
 
 Lough Guttane is often very good. Permission is rarely or never 
 refused to the stranger. Kerry, a sort of angler's paradise, abounds 
 in lakes and rivers. We will proceed to mention some of the 
 principal. A drive of two hours by the mail car conducts the 
 tourist to Lady Headly's Hotel at Rossbeigh. This inn forms excel- 
 lent head-quarters for 
 
 Carra Lake and River, and the Beigh. The angling on the river 
 is sometimes good in spring ; the troUing on the lake in the earlier 
 months bears a high character. The salmon are of good size and 
 the red trout very fine. Part of this water is free, and on the 
 remainder, angling by the day, week, month, or season, can be 
 obtained on very moderate terms. 
 
 The Beigh is a little mountain stream close to the hotel, which, 
 during the autumn spates, holds fine white trout. 
 
 Ihe Black Stones River is an affluent of Carra Lake, and, during 
 the early months of spring, affords better salmon angling than 
 either the lake or Carra Eiver. It is usually, however, let with the 
 shootings. Ten miles to the south-west is the small town of 
 Cahirciveen, where is a stream that looks very promising in wet 
 .veather. I have never fished there, but have heard good accounts 
 of the water. 
 
 The Lmy flows into BallinskelHg's Bay, and in August, September, 
 
300 A YEAR OF LIBERTY. 
 
 and October (should the weather be wet), will afford excellent salmon 
 and white trout fishing. Three miles farther on is 
 
 Waterville, where is a capital hotel at the bottom of the village 
 the "Hartop Arms." Lough Currane is well known for the excellent 
 salmon trolling it affords in spring; here, also, red trout are 
 numerous and fine. During the month of May the salmon rise well 
 to the fly. In July and August the lake is full of white trout, at 
 which season also a few grilse will fall to the share of the angler. 
 
 The Cummeragh is an affluent of Lough Ourrane, connecting it 
 with two small mountain tarns. Towards the close of the season 
 these waters afford good sport. 
 
 The Lesser Blackwater (station, "Old Dromore Hotel"). This river 
 is admirable in summer and autumn, but requires rain to bring it 
 to concert pitch. Any angler intending to visit the district should 
 write to the hotel keeper for information, as the angling is occa- 
 sionally let to a club. At the head of Bantry Bay are two small 
 rivers. 
 
 The Owrane and Beal, which afford good angling should the 
 summer be wet. 
 
 Following the coast line back to Cork, are several small streams, 
 with which the writer has no personal acquaintance. 
 
 We have now conducted the tourist over most of the principal 
 waters in the island; and, in conclusion, have only to wish him 
 health and good sport when he visits them. 
 
 London : Printed by Horace Cox, 346, Strand, W.C. 
 
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