■ p rJ L^ '*"' ■« R ' '■ ■ -I ' ' • »• • ; >■ 1^ ; s >■ Lil hakespeaee's "'anii C.J.RlBTON-TuRNER -- -- -.1 ,T. LnriJ IjT t. - • \ SHAKESPEARE'S LAND BEINO A DE6CB1PT10N OF CENTRAL ^ Southern Warwickshire, BY C. J. RIBTON-TURNER, AL'THOH OK A HISTORY OK VAGRAKTS AND VAGRANCY, &L., &C. IVJTII TItlliTEEN MAPS A H J) PLANS. \ Seatniuaicn t I'UAKK Gl.OVKH, J5.A., "CoLniEH" OiFICE. iiinbou : SiMi'KiN, Mak.sjiai.i,, Hamilton, Kem aM) Co, "TumPiso: Naturane nobis hoc, iiiquit, datum dicam an errore quodam, ut, cum ta loca videamus?, in quibus memoria dignos viros, acceperimus multum esse versatos, magis moveamur, quam si quando eorum ipsonun aut facta audiamus aut scriptum aliqiiod legamus ?" CiCEBO, Dejinibus bon. et vial. lib. v., c 2. " Is it," said Piso, " by some natural instinct, or through some delusion that -when we see the very spots where famous men have lived we are far more touched than when we hear of the things that they have done, or read some- thing that they have written ?"' TJT^'^ VP.Y UMVEKSITY OF CALIFORNIA SA:NTA BARBARA DEDICATED TO GEORGE W. CHILDS, ESQ., OF PHILADELPHIA, AS A SLIGHT KECOGNITION OF THE AFFECTION SHOWN FOR SHAKESPEARE AND HIS WORKS BY OUR COUSINS ACROSS THE SEA. P II E F A E . r>f the fullowing pages I have eiideavoured to set out a description, not only of those sites and scenes ia Warwickshire which have already excited public interest, but also of many which have hitherto remained almost undescribed and unknown, and which will, I venture to think, be found to possess unsuspected claims for examination and appreciation. My great aim has been to describe the various points of interest in as clear and succinct a manner as possible ; that I have never fallen into error is more than I can hope for, but I can, at any rate, honestly plead that I have spared no pains to make my descriptions accurate, and that everything of an historical character is based upon researches among original records and authorities. In addition to this, I have to acknowledge, with the deepest sense of gratitude, the very great aid I have received from those best iiualiiied to further me in my work — an aid which has Ijeen enhanced in value by the courtesy by which it has been accompanied. The descriptions of Warwick Castle and of Stoneleigh owe much to the courteous kindness of the Earl and Countess of Warwick, Lord Leigh, and -Major Fosbkry. The Marquts of Hertford, Lord Dormer, and the late Major Fetherston Dilke have favoured me with information regarding IJagley, Grove Park, and Maxstoke Castle. At Compton Verney, Offchurch Bury, Walton Hall, Charlecote, and Arbury Hall, I have benefitted by the kindness of Lord and Lady Willoughisy de Broke, Jane, Countess of Aylesford, 8ir Charles Mordaunt, Mrs. Spencer Lucy, and General and Mrs. Newdegate. At Cough- ton, Guy's (Jliff, Baddesley Clinton, Wroxall Abbey, and Bilton Ilnll, I have received much kind help from Miss Throckmorton and Mr. E. Copk, the late Miss Percy^, Lord Algernon Percy, Mr. li. C. Heath, Mrs. Hering, nnd the late Mr. Deiiing, Mr. and Mrs. Broughton Hi'GDALE, and the Misses I?uii)fiEMAN-Si.Mi'SON. 'J'ho Hon. and Ukv. Walter Vkmnkv haa favoured mo with VI. PUEFACE. valnaMt^ notos regnrdiiifTf Lifjhtliornp and Chesterton, and the Kkv. .1. C. IMn.nkv, the Ukv. J. II. Radcmffk, and the liKV. I'anon Kvans have coutriljiited to my informa- tion regarding Cok'shill, Snitterfield, and Solihull. At Stratford-on-.\von I received most eillcient aid from Sm Arthur Hodgson and the late Mr. Ciiarlks E. Flower, while Mr. Uichard Savauk, the able Secretary and Librarian of Shakespeare's House, has laid me under a deep obligation by the unsparing way in which he has endeavoured to meet my inquiries. At Comptoa Wynyates, Earl Compton, Lady Alwynk Compton, and Mr. and Mr.s. Sargext have supplied me with information of the greatest interest, and at Weston House and Upton House I received effective aid from .Juliana, Uountkss of Camperdowx and Mr. W. H. P. .Irnkins. I owe much to the pains which the late Mr. .T. W. Godson took to supply me with information regarding Edge Hill, which has been supplemented at Kineton by Mr. George Lines. At Coventry, Mr. W. G. Fretton, F.S.A., proved a kind and welcome assistant, and my researches were furthered by the courtesy of Mr. and Mrs. Wylky, of the Charterhouse. To Sir Henry Dryden I owe a debt of gratitude for his investigation of the site of Wormleighton House, and for his verification of the subjects of the windows at Compton Verney and Chadshunt Churches, as well as for other kind aid. To Mr. .T. A. Cossins, the well known architect, I am greatly indebted for many valuable notes from his rich researches among the churches of Warwiclcshire, and to the accurate scholarship of my brother-in-law, Mr. Stephen Allf,n, I largely owe the correctness of the translations of the Latin epitaphs. 1 have also to thank Mr. G. K. Fortescue, of the British Museum, Sir William Flower, K.C.R., Director of the Natural History Museum, and Mr. .Tosrph Hill, of Birmingham, for other valuable aid. The previous researches of Dugdale, Halliwkll-Phillipps, M. H. Bloxam, and G. T. (^lark have lightened my own, and necessarily proved of great service to me. My friends Mr. Edward Scriven and Mn. T. .1. Hawlry have given me unsparing and valuable aid in driving me to places which it would otherwise have been diihcult for lue to PREFACE. VIT. visit. To the numerous correspondents, many hundreds in number, who have favoured me with various items of information, I would here tender publicly, as I have already done privately, my cordial acknowledgments for their kindness. Last, but not least, I have to acknowledge the great aid given me by my friend Frank Glover in every possible form, and on e\ery possible occasion. It only remains for me to add that I shall at all time.s be grateful for any additional information with which correspondents may favour me, and that the friendships I have made and the kind hospitality I have experienced in the course of my investigations, will always hold a cherished place in my recollections. C. J. R.-T. 5, High View Road, Upper Norwood, S.E. March, 1893. CONTENTS. PAGB INTKODUCTIOX XIII Itinebahy London to Leamington by London and Xorth-Westem Railway and by Great Western Railway xix RouTB 1 Leamington 1 „ 2 Leamington to Guy's Cliff, and thence to Kenilworth or Blakedown 14 „ 3 Leamington to War\\dck via Myton and lid Emscote 21 „ 4 Leamington to Long Itchington i^id Lillington, Ciibbington, and Offchurch 59 „ 5 Leamington to Strat ford-on- Avon lid Bar- ford, Wasperton, Hampton Lucy and Charlecote ; vid Warwick, Longliridge, and Welcombe, and via Great ^^'L'stern Railway ••• 63 „ 6 Leamington to Kenilworth cid Chesford Bridge 107 „ 7 Kenilworth to Coventry vid Gibbet Hill 127 „ 8 Snittorlield to Alcester vid Bearley and Aston Cantlow 159 „ 9 Snittertit'ld to Strat ford-on-A von vid Wilm- cote and Bishopton 165 „ 10 Strat ford-on- Avon to Coughton vid Bid- ford, Wixford, Arrow, and Alcester ... 167 „ 11 Alcester to Stratford-on-Avon or Wilmcote 183 „ 12 Bearley to Lapworth vid llenley-in-Arden 187 „ 13 AVarwick to Knowle and Soliliull vid Lower Norton, Claverdon, and llenb^y-in-Ardtn 193 „ 14 Warwick to Kingswood vid llampton-on- tlir-llill and Tinley 203 ,, 15 Warwick to Baddesley Clinton vid Kow- inytou .^ 207 A X. CONTENTS. PAG£ RorxE 16 Warwick to Temple Balsall via Hattoa and Wroxall 213 „ 17 Kenilworth to Meriden vid Berkswell ... 221 „ 18 Kenilwortli to Maxstoke vid Ilampton-in- Anlen and Coleshill 226 ,, 19 Leamington to Coventrj- lid Ashow, Stone- leigh, and Baginton 238 ,. 20 Coventry to Meriden vid Allesley 249 „ 21 Coventry to Arbiiry i-id Corley, Fillongley, and Astley, returning by Nuneaton, Chilvers Coton, Bedworth, and Foleshill 250 „ 22 Coventry to Rugby vid Stoke, Caludon, Sowe, Binley, Bretford, King's Newn- ham, and Church Lawford 264 „ 23 Leamington to Rugbj- via Princethorpe and Bilton 267 „ 24 Rugby to '^Coventrj' vid Dunchurch and Ryton 278 „ 25 Leamington to Fenny Compton, Worm- leigliton, Farnborough, Avon Dassett, and Radway vid Southam 283 „ 26 Fenny Compton to Kiueton via Burton Dassett and Gaydon, and to Radway vui Old Leys 292 ,. 27 Leamington to Ufton or Ladbroke vid AVliitnash, Chesterton and Harburj' ... 30O „ 28 Leamington to Tysoe vid Taclibrook, New- l)old Pacey, Moreton Morrell, Combroke, Butler'.s Marston, and AVhatcote 308 „ 29 Leamington to Lighthorne and Kineton ... 314 ,, 30 Leamington to Warmington 316 „ 31 Warwick to Radway ind AVellesboume, Compton Vemey, Kineton, and Little Kineton 319 ,, 32 Warmington to the Rollrich Stones vid IMgf Hill, L'pton. Ty.soe, Compton Wyn- yates, Brailes, Cherington, and Long Compton 337 CONTENTS. XI. PAGE Route 33 Fenny Compton to Sulgrave via Wormleigli- ton and Culworth, and Banburj' to Sulgrave via Thorpe Mundeville 367 Addendum and Cobrigenda 374 List of Painters and Sculptors • with the Localities in the County in which their Works are to be found 375 Table of Distances by Road from Leamington 391 Table of Distances by Road from Coventry ... 394 Table of Fares from Leamington by London AND North-Western Railway 395 Table of Fares from Leamington by Great Western Railway 396 Table of Farbs from Stratford-on-Avon by the East and West Junction Railway... 397 Table of Fares from Stratford-on-Avon by Great Western Railway 398 General Index 399 MArS AND PLANS. 1. MAV OF WARWICKSHIRE 5. PLAN OF LEAMINGTON 3. (iliOUND PLAN OF WARWICK CASTLE ... h PLAN OF WARWICK 5. GROUND PLAN OF SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE r,. PLAN OF STRATFORD-ON-AVON 7. GROUND PLAN OF KENILWORTH CASTLE 8. PLAN OF COVENTRY 0. GROUND PLAN OF MAXSTOKB PRIORY ... 10 GROUND PLAN OF STONELEIGH ABBEY ... 11. BATTLEFIELD OF EDGE HILL n. PANORAMA OF EDGE HILL FROM SUN RISING 13. GROUND PLAN OF COMPTON WYNYATES PdV- XIII 1 2,i 1U S4 lOS US ■i35 21.0 :iSO 31,0 .v,r, m WAiryrLMSsEiRiL IXTRODUCTIOX. Ax old writer in doscribing Warwickshire ^ say? " it is situated near unto the heart of EngLind, and, therefore, participates witli her in the best, both for air and soil, wanting notliing either for the pleasure or profit of man. It may most accurately be described as the county of leafy lanes and beautiful rural panoramas. Notwithstanding the absence of conspicuous elevations within its borders, the views in various parts are of great expanse, extending at Edge Hill on a line day to a distance of upwards of ninety miles from the spectator. The natural beauties of the shire have been enslirined by the " Poet of all time " in the fruitful imagery which he has drawn from its meadows and l)anks teeming with wild flowers of A'aried hue, its woodlands clustering on the hill sides, and its streams purling tlirough many a sylvan nook and richly carpeted meadow. The nomenclature of the natural features of the county, and especially of its rivers, presents many traces of its Celtic inhabitants, which prove them to have been of Gat'lic race. The Avon (Ahhainn river) above Wai'wick is sometimes termed the Dove {Dobhar, little water). The Sow is the Samhadh, or sorrel producing river ; the Dene, t.\w. Dian, the strong or vehement ; the Stour, the Srutk, tlie stream ; the Alne. tlie Alainn, the bright or lovely ; the Arrow, the Airyead, or silver river ; the lilythe, the BlaThach, or flowery; the Cole, tlie ('nil, or liazel tree river; and the Leam, tlu- Leanih, or tlie elm tree river. The titles of the ancient divisions of the county into the Arden or table land («/Y/a/i, little height) and Feldon, or lowland (falta, enclosed fields) are also of Celtic origin. Other traces of tlie racf are to be found in the remains of the British Camp at Nadbunj, and several smaller entrenchments, in several sepulchral tumuli, notably Alcock'a Arbour, near Alcester, I Tlie pr»»sent description embraces about two-tliird» of the county. XIV. INTKODCCTION. and the weird old RoUrich Stones on tlie south western borders of the county. Traces of tht- Romans are to be found in the roadways of Icknield or Ryknield Street running close to the western border, the Fons-va;/, which crosses tht.- county from High Cross to Ilalfonl, iind Watlimj Street, which skirts the northern boundnrj'. The earthworks of two C'astra ..Estiva or summer camps are still standing at tV/r/pirt', contains tin- tomb of Ivlniund de I^angley, Karl of Ciimbridgi' an.rmi''jr ^^ati'it. and then traverse B'j.r>n'jor. which is picturesquely situated at the foot of a richly wooded slope on the left, along which the canal winds. The roadside is lined with chestnut trees, and dotted with jiretty cottages nestlin;:: among foliage. Between the roadway and the rail three clumps of trees, each enclosed in an iron ring fence, -will be observed, with an interval between each. On the further side of the last of these clumps two ''plum- pudding stones " may be seen with a space of about ten feet between them; these mark the grave of James Snook, a highwayman, who one night in the early part of the year 1801, near this spot, stopped the horse by which the Tring mail bags were then carried, and compelled the man in charge to surrender them. He obtained a considerable booty, and for some time successfully eluded discoverj-, but was at length taken and tried at Hertford in March, 1802, when he was condemned to suffer on the scene of his crime. A gallows was therefore erected on this spot, on which he was hanged, his boily l^eing after- wards buried in a hole at the foot.* Pursuing our way, we traverse on the left some pretty rural scenerj- with an i^^ed mill, and then arrive at Berhhampstead, containing a cruciform church of the 13th centurj- with a central embattled tower. We next pass on the right Aldbury Hill, crowned with an amphitheatre of trees, in the midst of wIulIi -taiids a granite column 200ft. high, erected in 1832 ir; li r ur of Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater (173(i-l"s».;; as a commemoration of the completion of the Grand Junction Canal. Trim/ Park lies to the left of the line. After passing Trim/ Station the line 1 The wretohf^i --r.rr.-.r^rA. «rho condacted himself with great fortitude, offered his wr '--r acquaintance if he would take away hia body. This he ::.-i9led in the intereato of decency that llie l»wcr limUs should ■ 1. A hole being dug beneatli the gallows, a truss of straw » . ■ ;:-'i. h;i!f "f "!.!• tj waa thrown into the grave and the corpse wa» ti.vii j I i.,t?i1 on r ' ilf was then thrown on the body and the pit filled in ' .er c«reeiony. Smim- c.u.jt^-v-i'ii.ite inhabitants of the neig): of BemelHem]-' ■ -r scandalised at the way '.!i "i •i.- mnains of t! ■ i been treated, subscribed to yir \- coffin, and oi. - . ;y the body was exhumed, and aft'.-r ix-.i^ daoently i^aced in ihc ot&u, was re-intemd. mXERABY. XXI. traverses a deep cutting, and then emei^s on a wide tract of undulating country. Shortly before reaching Chtddington, a hUl cut ' into linchets for purposes of cultivation will be observed on the left. Xeit comes Ch^ddiiujt'iu with a Perpendicular church, having an embattleendicular clerestorj- and a central tower with pinnacles, capped by a massive octagonal spire 19.3ft. high. Passing onwards, the church of Crreat BrickhilL with a square tower, picturesquely situated on a wooded hill, becomes visible on the right. >'ext on the left is the quaint village church of 0/3 Bradirell. with a gabled tower, and then the line passes through W'Jierton. We next come on the right to the picturesque village of Ashton. Ij-ing amidst apple orchards, and then reacli B'-ad^, wliere the railway to Rugby bifurcates, one service of trains travelling i-td Northampton and the other viti Blisworth. By the first of these courses Northampton, situated on a gentle eminence, comes fully into view, displaying a lai^e surface of red brick buihling, in which the old church of St. Sepulchre stands prominent. Continuing onwards, we come to the old historic mansion of Holmby or HK-ldenby, standing on an eminence on the right. It was built by Jolin Thorpe, and is memorable as the residence in 1647 of Cliarles I. when he was seized by the Parliamentarian Army. The greater part of the old house was pulled down about 1670, and only the north side of the inner court still remains. This has in recent years been restoreil and added to, so that it again forms a considerable mansion, which is the seat of Viscount Clifden. On the left, but not visible from the rail, is Althorj} Park, the seat of Earl Spencer. The line then passes Kil^y and ly^ing Buckbtj, after which the church of IliUmorton, with a square embattled western tower, is visible close to the rail on the right, and then just before reaching Bugby, the tower of the church and the octagonal lantern of the school chapel may be obs^^ri-ed on the left. By the second way the first station reached is BUxworth, whence a line, 38 miles in length, branches off on the left XXir. ITINEUARY. to Stratfonl-on-Avoii, traversing a pleasant agricultural country.' Truvelling onwards, we enter ujton a broad tract of beautiful country, and then pass on tlie left the great military' dt-jiot of Weedm, containing formal red brick barracks. Next comes Crick, soon after whicli we enter the great Kil-fhi/ Tunnel, 1.',42.'3 yards in K'ligth (one mile tliree furlongs), and shortly after arrive at JRiu/bj/. From lu-nce a branch line traverses a prettily wooded untlulating country, passing tlie stations of Birdnujbunj and Marton, und then reaches Leainiiujfon. The service by thi- Great Western Railway starts from Paddinyt'in. The first station reachwl is Ti^'fidhourne Park Junction, shortly aftt-r quitting which the most noticeable object on the left is St. Michat-Fs Cullttie, followed at an interval of a little more than a mile by the gamboge-coloured walls of WormiC'jod ikrubbK Prifn. A few miles intervene, and then the sjiire of IlanutU Church peeps out picturesquely from a group of elms on the right, behind which the church spire of Harnjic-on-thf-IIill is visible in the distance, while on the left the cheerless-looking buildings of the Cuunty Lunatic Aoj/htm form a marked feature. Soon after passing West Drayton, we cross the Colne, on which, on the left, stands a picturesque wooden mill with its adjoining weir. Thence tiiere is nothing worthy of note until nearing Slough, on tlie left the keep and towers of Winds >r Castle are to be seen boldly defined Jigainst the sky, and remain in sight until we reach the grey stone bridge over the Thames at Maidenhead, with its j-icturesque surroundings. Here, Ciiitdiu, tht^ splendid country seat of William Waldorf Astor, Esq., is noticeable to the right on a iieight covered with trees. A mile and a half on the left near tlie riverside is the church of Braij, witli a square tower, notable for its transformable vicar, Simon Aleyn. who died in 1588. From hence, after traversing a long cutting, a beautiful stretch of rustic scenery reveals itself. A little beyond Ttryford Station the line crosses the Loddon ; five miles further it passes over the Kennet, close to its junction with the Thames, and then enters Reading, where, by the side of the O'Unti/ Gaol a glimjise may be obtained of the ivy-clad ruins of its ancient Benedictine Abbey, founded by Henry I. in 1121, and in which he and his two queens were buried. I Moreton Pmlcory on this line is tlie nearest station to Sulsmve (two miles anil n luilf ). Khxrtoii Station is within two miles of Conipton Veniey, two niilcn of the Battiefield of Edge Uill, ami beven miles of Compton Wvnyates. itinehaey. xxiri. A portion of the Great Hall in which several Parliaments were held is still standing. On the right on the high ground above the Thames, the house and grounds of Caversham are visil^le. Here, in July, 1G47, Cliarles I. was allowed by Parliament to spend two days with his children. On leaving Reading, tlie Thames is to be seen flowing placidly on the right, hidilen at times by inter- vening bushes ami wood, through which at others it glistens and sliimmers. We pass on through a prettily- wooded undulating country until we reach the comely little town of Pmu/bounie, on the other side of which a picturesque wooden bridge across the river leads to the village of Wliitchurch. Next on the left is Basildon Park, in which stands a handsome mansion containing a fine collection of works of art. Then at a short interval comes a large, plainly-built white house called The Grotto, standing in a charming ami)lntheatre of Avood whicli fringes the Thames, followed a little later l)y the delightful little 14th century church of Mouhford, cosily nestling among the trees by the river side. After passing ^loulsford Station, another pleasant village church — tluit of Chohey, with a square central tower — comes in sight on the right, followed by a beautiful rural panorama, diversified with woodlands, and ijordered by the distant Chiltfrn Hills. Northwnrd of this, on the right, is Sinodun Hill, an ancient earthwork crowned by a clump of trees. Thence soon after leaving Culham, a magnificent ampliitheatre of wood fringes the Thames on the right for upwards of a mile, having in its centre the Georgian mansion of Nunehum C'ourfoicy, the seat of th»; llarcourt family, while on tlie left hand the brick-built walls of St. Peter's College are visible in tlie rear of liadlei/ Church. The obelisk at Sandford Lasher, (a memorial of a sad boating fatality) and the old Norman church of Iffleij, picturesquely situated amongst; trees on a rising ground above an old mill next come into sight, and tlienafti-ra brief interval the towers and .spiresof O.rford burst ujjon the view. Here in the Church of St. Mary, the ill-fated A/ni/ Jiohsart was laid to rest on Sunday, the 'JJnd September, LOGO. On leavingOxford, immediately on the left is Port Meadmr, a hirgf ojjcn space of 4.'J'.( acres on whicli tin- citizens of Oxford have rights of commonage, beyond whicli Oodsfow, connected with the legend of Rosamond Clifford is to be seen. Three mih's further on the right tlie old grey tower of the Church of ll'olvercuic displays itself amongst trees on a slight eminence. Here, according to tradition, Memphric, King of the Britons, the XXIV, ITISEHAnY. reputed foundor of Oxford, was attacked and devoured by wolves. Soon after jiassing Kidlintfton Station, the villape churcli, with a tall and ^jraceful Perpendicular fipire, forms ii noticeable object nearly a mile to the right. Eleven milt's further is Aynho, two miles from which on the left is the site of Deddingtmi Caatle, where Piers Gaveston, the favourite of Kdward II. was seized by the Earl of War- wick in l.'Jll'; antl a little further on the right, close to the rail, the beautiful tower and crocketted spire of Kiiiy's tSutfoti Church are conspicuous. Commercial-looking £an- bitn/, famous for its cross and cakes, next claims notice, followed by Cropredy, the fine old village church of which attracts the eye amongst trees on the right immediately after passing the station. In the neighbour- hood is Cropn-dy Bridge, where the rival forces of King and Parliament engaged in deadly conflict on the 29th June, 1644; then we goon until the historic Burtun Dassett Be&con close by the windmill on the low hills beyond Ftnmy C'om/i/im on tlie left, catches the eye, and next come to the deep Harbury cutting, in which a fine section of the lower lias stands exposed. Emerging from this, the round arcaded wiuilmill of Chegtert'iu, built from designs by I nigo Jones, is visible on a low hill on the left, and soon after- wards our journey ends at Leaminyton. LEAMINGTON. Leamington, from its central position in Warwickshire, ami from the facilities of access to other places which it affords both by road and rail, is unquestionably the best point at which the tourist who desires to explore the county can establish his head-quarters. The town, moreover, has great attractions of its own, its streets and squai'es ai'e artistically planned and attractively laid out, tlie principal pathways being lined with trees, which impart a charmingly sylvan aspect to the wiiole place. The climate is mild and unusually equable, the restorative qualities of the waters are held in high estimation by leading medical experts, and the governing body makes great efforts to render the town agreeable to visitors. The town is divided into two parts — the Old and the New. The Old occupies the site of the original vilhige to the south of the river Learn, and the New is entirely a modern creation on the north side of the river. On entering the town from tlie Railway Stations, the first prominent object is the Parisli Churcli of All Sainto, which stands in a central position at the junction of Victoria Terrace with Priory Terrace. It is a handsome building, though defective in some of its proportions. Originally it was a chapelry of the village of heek Wootton ; of its early appearance no record exists, but in 1624 the fabric appears to have been either restored or rebuilt, and up to the year 1816 it presented the appearance of a village church, consisting of a square embattled tower and a nave and chancel, with a small gabled porch on the south. In the year 1816 this church was enlarged, and again in 1825 and 1834. Ill 1843, unpl at Calais. On the north wall of the chancel is a mural talilet to Eduard Ti'illes. ('liief liaron of the Exchequer in Ireland, who died 1768. In the churchyard, immediately to the south-west of the cross footpath, is the tombstone of fj'inifun Abbotts, which bears the following inscription:— "Behold the tomb of William Al)botts, who died with all arrangements, and added "that a Mineral Water containing so large a percentage of salt of such high medicinal value as the sitdiiDii fniljthate, was worthy of more attention than it had lately received." ' The united action of the.se various salts, as contained in the Mineral Water, is calculated to aid the individual action of eacli, while the total saline strength of tlie water issiich that its effects are gently and harmoniously i)roduced, and tliat it can lie borne for a long time (in fit cases and in graduated doses) without causing nausea, excessive pur- gation, or distaste. The late spring, early summer and autumn, form the Spa season, [mmediately adjoining the Pump Rooms are the I Tho followlnft in nn analyais of the water in use at the Piiiiiii Hoonia, raailo by Dr. A. Bostock Hill, M.l)., S. Sc. Camb., F.I.C., in July, ISHO. Yielil of tlie saline ie»i«liio after evaporation in grainit iier pint of water : — Boosite the Pumi) Rooms are the Jephson Gardens, one of the principal attractions of Leamiii^'ton, on account of their sylvan beautv. The site, wliich covers about twenty acres, was munificently leased to trustees for :2,000 years, at the annual rent of a peppercorn, if demanded, by "the late J/r. Edward 7T7//f'»-, of Newbold Comyn. the principal stipulation attached to the lease being tliut tlie ground should never be built upon. The property, whicli in its primitive state, was a strip of low-lying meadow land, was taken over by the trustees in May, L*-'4(i, and immediately laid out witli ornamental walks. Tlie gardens suljsequently received the name they bear in honour of Dr. Jephson (1798-1878), whose remarkably successful treatment of patients, through the medium of the waters, brought increased fame to the town. The entrance is flanked on eacli side by an ornamental lodge of tasteful design, from whence a broad walk, bordered by handsome shrubs, leads tlirough the centre of tlie gardens. The river Leam forms the southern boundan*', sloi)ing down to which in the uj>]ier grounds is a grove of tali trees, interspersed with winding walks, leading in the lower part to a ilaze, formed by the river side, after the fashion of the one at llampton Court. An ornamental Lake, dotted with water lilies, and containing an island witli a swannerj-, forms a jjrominent feature in the lower grounds. Broallins, of Birniingliam, and ex- hil)ited at the Royal Aca, in memory of Mr. Jlitchmnn, a well-known surgeon and benefactor of tlie town. During tlie season Illuminated Promenade Concerts are held in tlie gardens in the evening, and Fashionable Fetes, from time to time, take place in tliem. 6 shakespsarb's lakp. Proct'eding onwards, we come to the foot of the Lower Parade, whicli swt-ep.s up a gently rising ground in a gnictful curve. It was ]ilnnnef Sa.vimy, the Grand Duke Constantine, Ibrahim Pasha, Xapoleon ill., when Prince, Charles Kean, ami Macreadif. At the left-hand side of the Parade, extend- ing down Regent Street, were the old Assembly Booms, erectefl in 1^13, at a cost of £10,000, and converted into business i)remise8 in 1878. llere the fashionable dandies and belles of a past generation mustered for dancing, under the punctilious regulation of a Master of the Ceremonies. In the house now occupie. ilioU 1834. Thu iltMcondaut of an auciuut (uuily, with a fine estate at Haiston, in Shropaliire, which he ■qoaudered. SHAKESPEAHE S LAN'D. 7 comer of Regent Street, the Duke and Ihtchess of Gloucester resided in 1822, when undergoing a course of tlie Spa Waters. Higher up on the right, ut No. 'J, Upper Parade, tlie ]'?-i7iceM Auf/usta stayed for a .similar purpose iu the same year. Still liigher uj), Warwick Street crosses tlie Parade. Vollowing this street to tin- left we come, at the corner of i'ortland Street, to St. Alban's Chapel, built iu 1881, and further along, at the corner of Dale Street, to Beech Lawn, a large mansion, built in 1.'nJ2 as the residence of Dr. Jephson, the remarkable physician, who did so much by his talent and public spirited action to promote the prosperity of the town. Returning to the Parade, at the top on the right is the Clarendon, a fashionable hotel for families, and ne.xt to it is the Leamington Club, a social resort of tli<' pi-of»->sional classes. At the end, facing southwards, is Christ Church, built in 1825 in what can only be termed a pastry-cook imitation of the Norman style, and which it is to be hoped, from the commanding character of the site, will eventually give place to a building more worthy of it. To the right, in Leicester Street, is St. Paul's Church, u well i)roportioned building of brick, with stone dri'ssings, liuilt iu 1874 in the Early English style. To the left is Clarendon Square, with a large ornamental garden in the centre. At No. 6 in this square Prince Louis Napoleon, afterwards Emperor of the French, lived for ten months in 18-17. It was visited in December, 1860, by the Empress Ewjenie. To the north- east of this, in IJeauchamp Avenue, is Holy Trinity Church, built in 1H47 in the Early English style. Still further northward, in Binswood Avenue, is the Leamington College, a fine building in the Tudor style, opened in 1848. The great Hall measures 90ft. by 30ft., and is lighted on the south side by tive lofty windows of three lights ; opening out of it on the north side is a tasteful chapel in the same style. A Sanatorium, Gymnasium, and a Laboratory form part of the 1)uildings, and a Cricki't Field of seven acres is attached to the College. Many of its students have won high distinctions at tlic Universities and the comjtetitivee.vaminations. The ilistrictof Uiuswood was, up to the commencement of this century, covered by u wood of considerable extent, from which it derives its name. To the westward, in the Kugby Road, is St. Mark's Chorch, a tine building in the Decorated style, desigueii by the late vSir (i. C. Scott, and oiK-ned in 1879. Returning to the Parade, tlie visitor should proceed up the Holly Walk, which formerly formed tlie aijjiroach to 8 suakespkaue's land. tilt' liousc of till- Lord of tlie Manor at Xo\vl)oUl Comyn, ami wliicli still contains a number of fine olil trues with a yount,'er growth, destined eventually to replace their giant predecessors. It derives its name from the holly trees planted in the upper part when the property was appropriated to the public use in 1841. On the left hand side is the Theatre, a well constructed building erected in 1SS2, and capable of seating 1,'JOO itef)ple, and the Borough Club. Opposite is a Russian Oun, captured during the Crimean War by Major- (rtntral nyndham, a former resident in the neighbourhood, and presented to the town in 1S57 by Lord I'aninure. Higher up on the right is the Holly Walk Chapel, a l)uilding erected in 1840 in the Tudor style, and belonging to the Congregationalists. Still further on the left hand side is the entrance to Lansdowne Circus, at Xo. 10 of which Xnthaniel Hduthorne^ (1H)4-1)4) resided in Sejitember and October, 1851), when collecting materials for "Our Old Home." At the upper end of the walk is Newbold Comyn, the seat for many generations of the JVilles family. Adjoining it a footjiath leads through plea-sant fields to the old village of Offchurch. On the left is an old half-timbered house, which in the last century was occujded by a farmer and mill-owner named Campion, whose name lias been trans- mitted to the bills, to which a footpath a little further along leads, and which are known as the Campion or Newbold Hills. On the summit is a picturesque grove of trees, termed the Lover's NValk, from whence there is a ftno panoramic view of the surrounding country, Leamington ajijiearing to lie in a compact mass imnuMliately at the foot of the sjiecf ator. From hence footpaths lead to the villages of Lillington and Cubbington. Steeplechases are held annually on the ground at the back or Newbohl Beeches, the mansion on the summit of the hill.s. In the Holly Walk, Charlca Dichent, in the 27th chapter of " Dombey and Son," lays the scene of the first encounter between Mr. Carker and Edith Granger. Again returning to the Parade, and turning to the right along Dormer I'lace by the side of the i'ump Room Oardens, we arrive at the Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter, a lofty cruciform structure with a tall campanile, built from ilesigns i)y Mr. Clutton in the Romanesque style with Gothic tendencies. It was originallj' erected in 1^>3 J III November, 1859, ho again visitol the town, oiul took up his nwi, and subsequently enlarged. It was for many years the resort of the rank and fashion of the kingdom, and is commemorated by Dickens in "Dombey and Son," and by Thackeray in the "Fatal Boots." Dickens himself stayed in it in 18,S8. The house was demolished in 1847, to make way for the railway to Kugby. Procediiig to the left along High Street, we come to the Old Town Hall, built in 1831, and now >ised as the Police Station. Further on, we reach the Wameford Hospital, which owes its name to the Rev. Dr. JVanuford. rector of Bourton-on-the-Hill, (iloucestershire, who.se muniticence contributed greatly to its foundation. The buihling, which is on a large scale, was commenced in 1S3l', imd has since been greatly enlarged at various times, a new wing being erected in i8'.ll-2. It at present makes up K.KJ beds. Returning to Clemens Street, the right hand corner is noteworthy as being the .site of the Black Dog, owned by Abbotts, which, at the time of the discovery of the saline spring in 1784, was the leading inn of the village, and which he relinc|uished when he removed to the newly built New Inn, or Bath Hotel, in 1786. To the right, in High Strei-t, were Lees or Hudson's Baths, enclosing a sulphureous spring, discovered, at a depth of 60ft., in 1806. SUAEESPBABS'S LAND. 11 Further along is the Crown Hotel, built in 1814, which has always been a noted commercial liouse. Opposite to the Crown were Wise's or Curtis's Baths, covering a spring, discovered in 1790, at a depth of 42ft. TI)ese baths were demolished, in 1850, to make way for the railway, and the fountains under the Railway Bridge are now supplied from the springs. Coming back to Clemens Street, and proceeding onwards, we pass on the right the Free Congregational Cliurch, which from 1849 to 18(J5 was fitted up and used as a fashionable theatre. Across the Canal Bridge, on the left, are the Ranelagh or Cullis's Gardens, now a uursary ground, but which, in the early part of the century, were laid out as ornamental grounds, where musical and otlier entertain- ments were given, which were resorted to by all the fashionable people who frequented tlie town. To the west of this, in Tachbrook Street, is St. John's Church, l)uilt in 1880-1884, in the Early Englisii style. Tlie Cemeteiy, which was opened in 1852, stands on the road to Whitnash. Standing in its grounds, and aj)]iroaclied by an avenue from the Tachbrook Road, is Shrubland Hall, the seat of the Rev. W. G. Wise. The avenue in former days extended to Spencer Street, nearly opposite to the entrance to the Manor House Hotel. The house was built in 1822, and has no architectural pretensions. It contains some good pictures, amongst which are a large painting of " Dead Game witli a Dog," by Snydert; " Tlie Virgin," said to l)e by Guido Rem; "A River Scene witli Rocks," by L' 'iit/ierboujy; "A Battle Scene," by Hwjf.enbnr;/ ; "A Waterfall," by Aaron I'oilet/ ; and "Balfour, of Burleigh," and "Julian Avenel in the Monasterj'," by Catternvle. Further along the Tachbrook Roa'U4. the water of which i.s now conveyed across to the Pump Kooms and the Pump Room spring itself. In the year 18()0, the village consisted of about SO houses ■^-ith a population of 315, but, after that date, began rajjidly to increase. In 1838, the Queen, in response to a petition from the inluil)itants, acceded to their rotpiest to call the Spa, thf Uoyal i.^amington Spa, in memory of her visit, and, in 1875, the town received a charter of incor])oration- ROUTE 2. -LEAMINGTON TO GUVS CLIFF, AND THENCE TO KENILWORTII OR DLAKEDOWN. Quj'b Cliff, the beautifully situated re,nce of 2>)rrf Algernon Perci/\ies about a mile and a half fn>m Loaiuinjjton, by a pleasant footpath acrosss the field?, stiirtinj; from the end 01 the Guy's Cliff Road. Another mod*- of approach is by a footpath, about a mile in length, commencing in a lane at the back of the Tortobello Tavern, at Emscote, to which the tramway leads. The route by road lies through Warwick, from whence it is distant a mile and a quarter. The ancient name of the })lace up to the reign of Henry IV. was Gibbech/re, and its later name seems to have been a 15th century act of homage to the redoubted Guy of Warwick,' the account of whose mythical e.-^ploits had by that time elevated him to the front rank among heroes of antiquity. In the sixth century, St. Dubritiue ^ is said to have built an oratory here, to which long afterwards, in Saxon times, a devout hermit repaired. In this state the place remained until the reign of Henry V., when that monarch, being on a visit to Warwick Castle, came to see it, and determined to found a chantry ior two priests on the spot. Death, liowever, prevented him from executing his plan, and it was subsequently carried out by Richard Beauchump, Karl of Warwick, who, by his will, ordered that the original chapel, ami the residence for the privets, should be rebuilt. John Rous, the Warwickshire antiquary, was subsequently a chantry priest here. At the dissolution the property was granted "to Sir .Vndrew Flammock, Kt., whose daughter and heir, Katherine, married John Colburne, who further olitained from (^ueen Elizabeth a grant of the chajjel in 1579. Of him the estate wag purchased by Mr. William Hudson, of Warwick, whose daughter and heir, Ursula, l>rought it in marriage to Sir 1 The romance of Guy. E.irl of ■\V,-vnvick, i« of Norman French origin dating in it« earliest form from the thirtoenth century. The u.iroea of Guy anil Pbillis are both Norman, ami the iuoiiiciit* of the story are compatible only with the perifKl of chivalry inaugunit«proach to it. Mr. Greatheed built the present front facing the courtyard, and made other considerable alterations. He was succeeded by his son, Bertie Bertie Greatheed, who almost entirely rebuilt the house, from his own plans, in the year 1822. Mr. Bertie Greatheed's son and heir died in 180.1, at the early ape of 22, leaving a daughter, to whom the ))roperty descended, and who married the Hon. Charles Bertie Percy. Miss Bertie Percy, the only child of this marriage, died in the spring of 1891, and the property then passed to Lord Algernon Percy. The house is romantically situated on a cliflf overhanging the river, with a background of rich foliage. The river in the foreground expands into a large pool, fringed l)y tall and graceful trees, the combined effects of which make up a scene of striking and singular beauty. The api)roacli is by an avenue commencing at a lodge on the AVarwick Koad. From this road there is a picturesque view of the west front of the house, looking up an avenue of majestic old Scotch firs, which were planted at the commencement of the eighteenth century, and are now, unhappily, decaying. The hou-se does not possess any notfsworthy architectural features, but contains a good collection of pictures, with other artistic treasures.' Entrasce Hali,.— Ilustb of Mr. Sanniel Greatheed (1710-1705) unci his first wife, Mi»H Bertie. Small Duawimj Room.— Pictures : " Portrait of Milton " ; " Hoi-se and Groom," Philij't Wouinrrnan ; "Robert Earl of Limlsey," C. Janssens ; "Bertie Bertie (ireatheeil," Jiukion: "Montague, Earl of Lindsey," Shiphcrd (cord C. Bertie Percy," llai/ttr : "St. Hubert" (containing |irtrait extant), V'irel*t: "Mrs. Kemble," widow of J. P. Kemble; " Head of St. Peter," J/. .1. C'aruttiyj/io ; " Kev. J. H. Williams, of Wollesbouruo," Artawl : "Pouting Child," Jiit/notdi : " Copy of the Madonna di Sau Sisto iu the Dresden Gallery," Artaud ; * The house is only shown to Tisitors during the absence of the family. 16 shakespbaee's land. "Grand I'anal anil Cliuroli of Santa Maria della Salute.Venice,".-!. CannUtto : " Edwanl WilUn, Kei|.," Artaud : "The Annunciation " (puiut«d on copper), ^'icoltu ^f:gtlarfl ; 'Moonlight on tbo Watvr" ; "Head," A. van Ostmlf : " V\\\\'*t<\>h8eph and Potiphar's Wife" d-opieil fmui Cignani), Monga ; "Three Horses' Heads," Paul : "Bertie Bertit Greathced when a boy (full length), IT. Chamberlain ; " Sir William Herschel," j the ])icture3 which eilorn the rooms are in themsclvcg highly interesting, the views from the windows constitute a whole gallery of beautiful landscapes. Drawing Roov.- -Pictures: " Cnpids Playing Musical Instruments"; "Ship in a Storm"; "Mrs. Siddons" (in tho Grecian Daughter), Hamilton; "The Anjrels Appearing to the Shei)herds," G. ila Ponte: " Landscape." ZuccarM, : " L.idy C. 13. Percy and Child," Cregan : "Chipid Blowing Bubbles" Cnftigliom : "liead Game." Biltiut: "Duchess of Ancaster" ; " Kiii>iarkation of Charles II. from Holland." vl. ran ile VtUU: "Dead Game." BUtius : " Nymph and Satyr," Bnrhkrt (II Guercino) ; " View of Ponlrecht " (Dort), J. van Ooyen: '• View on the River Maaa, with Rottenlam in the Distance," A. Cuyp : " Cnpids Dancing." Alfiano. From this room there is a wonderfully impressive view embracing the Old Mill, with its slowly revolving wheel, in front of which the water shimmers in the sun as it issues from the mill to form the beautiful ])ool in front of it. The boughs of an old elm tree on the terrace frame in the upper part of the jiicture, while the bright colouring of the fhiwer beds immediately beneath relieves the sombre tints of the firs close at hand. Vestibi LE. — Pirtures : "Moonlight." Sir G. Beaumoni : "Venus and Adonis," C. yettci.er : "Charles. Sixth Duke of Somerset, in his Robes," Knelltr : " Duke of Aiica^ter," Matna Chamberlin : " Forest Scene," Salrator Jlnta : " Laudpcipe " Jaco'j Jiiiynlacl: "Duchess of Anct>8t«r," Kruller : " Copy of ,i Puitriit in the Dresden Gallery." BtriU Graifhted. Dining RroM — " Hon. Charles Bertie." Lily : " A Heron ana a Falcon," Snydtrs : " Wife of the Hon. Charles Bertie," J^iy; " Tho Cave of Despair," Bertie Greatlueil. This huge picture is soreeneleon Bonaparte in 18<.i3," said to be an excellent likeness, and to hare been taken from a sketch made on the thuiub nail at an audience"; "Shylock," "Copy of the St. Jerome of A. Correg;,'io," " Miister Gray," " Lady Macbeth and her Husband," " Atahualljia, the Peruvian, discovering Pizarro's Ignorance of the Art of Reading and Writing;" "Diogenes with the L?ntern," copied from Sp.agnoletto'a picture in the Dresden Gallery ; " Richard Greatheed." In this rtxim are three very hamlsoun- paunelled Oak Cabinets of the era of Henry VI., taken from Wressel tastie, the seat of the Earls of North uni berland. In the autumn of 1772, and early ])art of 1773, Sarah Kemhle (1755-1831), afterwards the celebrated yirs. Sidd'.us, then a girl of 17, was here in the capacity of a companion. Her father, Roger Kemble, with his theatrical troupe, was performing at Warwick, when Lady Mary Greatheed, then a widow, took a fancy to Miss Kemble, and the father, with a view to break off the attachment which was then beginning to manifest itself between bis daughter and Mr. Siddons, who was a member of his comjiany, accepted the offer made to him to receive her at Guy's Cliff for a time. In November, 1773. the marriage with Mr. Siddons, however, took place at Coventry. In after life, Mrs. Siddons was, on several occasions, a welcome guest at Guy's Cliff. In the Court Yard are a number of excavations in the rock, which formerly served the purjjose of stables and other offices. Adjoining the mansion on the east i.s The Chapel, dedicated to St. Marj* Magdalen, erected in the reign of Henry VI. It was repaired in the middh' of tlie last century, and again restored in 1874, to tit it for devotional puriMtsus. It contains a mutilatecl statue of Guy, Earl of Warsvick, eight fe<'t liigii, carve retire from the world, and this iluiider foundation roaj have atiggenteU the rumaiioe of Guy. shakesfeabk's land. 19 Oa a gentle eminence, nearly half a mile to the north- eaat, is the little church of Milverton, rebuilt in 188U, in the Decorated style, on the site of the old church. Ilulf a mile further, on the left of the road to Kenilworth, is Blacklow Hill, a wooded knoll covered with handsome trees, in the midst of which stands a stone monument, •urmouuted by a cross, erected, in the year 1821, to commemorate the execution of Piers Gave!i<>n--i\\e hated favourite of Edward II. — on this spot, on the morning after the hasty sentence pronounced upon him by the barons assembled at Warwick Castle. The monument bears on its base the following inscription, composed by Dr. I'arr : — ■"In the hollow of this rock was beheaded, on the first day of July, 1312,' by barons lawless as himself. Piers Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, the minion of a hateful king, in life and death a memorable instance of misrule." The main road from hence, leading to Kenilworth (two miles;, is of an attractive character. One mile further on is the village of Leek-' Wootton, containing a churcli, rebuilt in 17'J2, and since renovated and improved. Proceeding westwards from the village, by Anchor Lane and the >'ew Koad to Kounsel Lane, and then turning to the right, we arrive at the Kennels of the North Warwickshire Hounds, built in 1879, and about one mile west of them, at a little distance south of*the lano, is Good Rest Lodge. Tlie moated Manor House which originally stood here was included in the area of Wedgnock Park, and was built in the reigns of Edward III. and Uichard II., by the second Thomas de Beauchamp. Dugdale supposes it was called Good Rest "in respect tiiat some of the Countesses of Warwick, to avoyd much concourse of people, retired hither when they were near the time of child-birth ; for 'tis plain that many of their children were born here." The old house, which was surrounded by a double moat, which still remains, was pulled down in the beginning of this century and a new house built, but not on the same site. On Banner Hill Farm, half a mile further on the left 1 The elate ia a mistake, Gaveeton wm exocutetl on the day of S.8. OerratiinH niul Protatiun, which fallo on th» 19th of Juno. Tlio difierenoe between the Olil Style and the New .Stvle in 1312 wa* eight linys only, and, tliorufore, the dat<;, iiccordiiiK X/t the New Style, would Ijo June 'J7th, but the inHoundarii'S <>f the parish, by the leading inhabitants, in Rogation week. JlirricL- alludes to the practice in the hues addressed to Anthea in " liesperides," — Dearest, bury me Under that Holy-oke, or Gosjwl-tree, Where (though thou see'st not; thou niay'st think upon Me, when thou yeerly go'st Procession. ROUTE 3.— LEAMINGTO.X TO WARWICK via MYTOX A^'D VIA EMSCOTE. There are two roads leading from Leamington to Warwick. The old or lower road is the more i)icturesque of the two, being bordered by tine trees, and diversified with pleasant views. Half-way'on this road, at Myton, there was anciently a hamlet witli'a chapel, of which Dugdale records tliat "there is now no more left of it than a grove of elms in the jilace where the village stood." Tlie remains of this grove exist in a field termed Earl's Meadow, adjoining Myton Grange, where, about 1863, an old well was discovered, which no doubt supi)lied the villagers. The place now consists solelj* of a row of villa residences, occu])ying a site on the other side of tlie road. Approach- ing Warwick, the town appears to be embedded in a mass of foliage, out of which the Castle towers and St. ilary's Churcii seem to peep out coyly, wliile the top of tlie Gatehouse asserts its existence more boldly, and itself looks like a miniature fortress. On the left of the road, before reaching the bridge over the Avon, is the King's Sohool. built of red brick witli free stone dressings. It was foumb'd by charter of Henry VIII., and erected on this site in 1879. Viewed from the bridge, a charming vista of trees, drooping over the banks of the river, guides the eye to the remarkably picturesque remains of the old bridge, covered with tangled ivy and seedlings, above which the old Castle looms up in stately grandeur. The entrance to the town formerly crossed the river by the old bridge near the Castle, and then ascended Mill Street by the side of the Castle grounds. Tliis circuitous route was re])lac((l in 17'.'0 by the erection of the present liridge, princi]>ai]y at the crjst of Cieorge, second Earl of Warwick. This brulge consists of one grand arch, measuring in its sjian, lo.o feet, and in breadth, 30 feet. Soon after it was linisiicd, the old bridge gave way under tiie pressure of a flood. The ujjjier read, along wliicli tiu! tramway is laid, leads througli Emscote, or Edinond.scote. On the left, just before readiing the rorfobello Bridge over tlie Avon, is the old Manor House,, a gabled buihling of tlie Jacobean period, containing traces of a much older building, now extensively 32 shakespeabe's land. modcrnipod. FurtluT along on the right, noar thfi Canal, ie tht' church of All Saints, consocnited in If^Ol. Passing through the suburb of Coten End, we arrive at Smith Street, at tlie foot of wiiich is the building known ae St. John's Hospital,' originally founded in the reign of Eenry 1 1., by William de Nt-wljurgh, Karl of Warwick, " for entertainment and reception of strangers and travailere, as ■well as those that were j)0()r and infirm." I'rior to the dissolution, the income of the hospital ajjpears to have been diverted to other jjurjiosi's, and in 1. ">().'{, the site was granted by C^ueen Elizabeth to Anthnmj >St')ur/ht"n, "in consideration of his good and faithful service, as well to her as to King Henry VIII. her father. King Edward VI. her brother, and Queen Mary her sister." The present house was com]ileteil about llil'iJ by bis grandson, Anthony, ■whose son, Nathaniel, erected the iron railings and the gates, and, in right of his wife, placed the leaden goats, representing the arms of the Thorold family, of Lincoln- shire, on the piers of the carriage entrance. Only one of these goats now remains. The building is a large and handsome stone mansion, having two wings, with transomed buy windows of large dimensions, and an ample porch in the centre, each surmounted by an open carved parapet. The front has five gables, the three over the porch and the bay windows being originally ornamented •with ogee sweeps and scrolls ; the gable over the jiorch was, however, blown down in a gale, breaking the parapet in its fall, and has been replaced by a plain construction. The interior contains a good Jacobean oak staircase, leading to an oak panelled chamber, formerly the dining room, in which is jireserved a stoup with the date 107-3 and the Stoughton initials. The house is now the property of the Warwick family. Proceeding onwards, just before reaching the East Gate on the right, is East Gate House, the birthidace, in lllo, of Walter tSavaye Laniln-, the pnet, now occu])ied as a High School for girls. The East Gate is surmountetl by the Chapel of St. Peter, laiilt in the reign of Henry VI., to replace a chajjcl of the same name, which formerly stood in the middle of the town, and was pulled down. The chapel was, until recently, used as a "Bablake" school; both it and the gateway were ruthlessly restored in the year 1788. At the foot of the declivity, to the left of th« gateway, is the Church of St. Nicholas, consisting of a tower ' Abmini Htatenieuta are iua>le regoriling secret jiassagea alleged to oxiet from the huii»e. (.Ki>l N 1) 1' LAN iiV WARWI CK CAST LE ITMELFUEDA'S MOuKt TOAER SCALl Of 'tlT 't* TB suakespbabe's land. 23. and spire, a nave -with aisles, aud a cliaiiCfl, stamliii^' on the sito of an ancient church. The pri'Sent buildiug. which was completed in 17SU, is a tasteless structure. On the east wall of the vestrj' is a very iuteresting incised l)rass, representing the first vicar of the church in full eucharistic vestments, and bearing the following inscription :—" llic jacet Kobertus Willardsey prim, vicari. i.sti. ecclesie. qui obiit xiij. die mens, marcii anno dni. Mill cccc^ xxiij. cujus anime propicietur deu.s. Amen." In the north aisle is a handsome marble monument to Ge'>r(/e itoui/hton, Estj. and his children, and, in the south aisle and vestibule, are monuments to other members of the same family, who, at that time, lived at St. Jolin's, and Avere originally possessors, from the time of King Jolin, of the .Manor of Stoughton, near Guildford. The Register of Births contains the following entry :-" 1772, April \b, Olive, daughter of Robert & Anna Maria Wilmott." This Olive afterwards claimed rank as an English princess, alleging that she was tlie daughter of the Duke of Cumberland by a secret marriage, aud supporting her assertions by a number of fabricated documents, which on several occasions formed the subject of an investigation by the courts of law. The Castle. Opposite to the churcli is the Gatehouse of tlie Castle, constructed, in 18tH_), on the .site of an Klizabethan house, which was demolished for the purpose, and wliicli belonged to an old Warwick family. The former approaches to the Castle, of which there were two, were situated, one on the north, at the bottom of Castle Street, and the other on the south, at the bottom of Mfll Street, where traces of the entrances are .still visil)le. The present entrance consists- of a jdaiu embattled gateway, leading to a picturesque winding roadway, cut, for upwards of a hundred yards, through the solid rock, and overhung with shrubs, creepers, and trees. This roadway conducts to the outer court, termed the Vineyard,' whe-re a grand view of the outer walls suddenly bursts uj)on the visitor, the maiu f«'atures of wiiicli are (iuy's Tower on the right, the (iatewiiy in tlie middle, and Ciesar's Tower on the left. Guy's Tower, so named in honour of the ri.-doubtablo warrior, was built bj' the second Thomas de IJi^aucbamp in the reign of Richard II., being compleli'd in l."W4. it is twelve-sided, 3()ft. in diameter at the base, witii walla lOft. tiiick, and ri.ses to a height of 12rtft. I In llol, waKtit wuru paid to curtain wuiiiuii fcr (jatlioiiji<; gr;i])u« hero Uuriii^ fivu da^B. 24 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. Caesar's Tower, erected between 1360 and 1370, by the first Tliomas do Boauchamp, is a marvel of constructive skill. It is an irregular polygon, 147ft. in height, con- taining four storeys, each with a groined roof, and is crowned by a lioldly projecting machicolation. The ])art facing outwards forms three segments of a circle, the general construction being such as to constitute it a fortress of tlie most formidable character, it is built on the solid rock, and was, tlierefore, imjiervious to the miner. The loopholes throughout are most .•scientifically contrived, not being cut in the centre of the merlons in each instance, but being pierced in positions commanding the most advantageous situations, and being made available either for the long or cross bow. The lower edges of the loopholes are also sloped at the exact angle requisite to clear the gallery below. The archers were securely ])rotected by wooden screens, termed mantlets, and by leather curtains, as well as by the roofs above them. The sloping base of the tower constituted another formidable medium for launching missies against the enemy, being so constructed that a stone or metal projectile launched from the machico- lation above, would rebound with a point blank aim into the brea.sls of the attacking force beneath. The Gateway, constructed in the 14th century, Avas in ancient times approached by a drawbridge, which formerly spanned the moat, but is now replaced by a stone arch. On the inner side of this is the Barbican, projecting some 50ft. from the wall, and rising two storeys in height above the archway. It is flanked by two octagon turrets, loopholed for the ])urpose* of defending the bridge and its apjiroaches. Within the drawbridge is a i)ortcullis, and behind the portcullis are four holes overhead, through which blazing pitch, hot lead, or other scnrifying com- pounds could be ])Oured on the heads of the assailants. Beyond the portcullis again were the doors. Passing through tlie archway, we find ourselves in a small court, 24ft. long by lift, wide, to which, if the assailants penetrated, they would find themselves entirely at the mercy of the defenders above. From a gallery o\er the archway, on the inner side of the Barbican, and from the walls and towers on all sides, a murderous discharge of missiles could be maintained, the slope of the ground iij)wards being an adilitioiial disadvantage to the assailants. At the npi)er end of this court is The Gatehouse, with a groined archway, which was again defendod l)v a portcullis, loopholes, and ell metal, popularly, though erroneously, styled Guy's Porridge Pot. It holds about 120 gallons, and is in reality a garrison cooking ]iot. used for seething flesh rations. It was probably originally made for Sir John Talbot, of Swanington, who died in 1365, as there is an old couplet relating to it, quoted in XichoWs " History of Leicestershire," which runs thus: — There'* nothing left of Talbot's luime Bot T&lbot's pot and Talbot'a lane. It possibly came to Warwick Castle through the marriage 1 There are »imilar picturee in the V.in Dyck room at Windsor Caatle, in the second Pre«*noe Chamber nt HampVm Court, and in the Hall of tlie Middle Temple, London, and there is also a replica at Biltrm Hall. The eyck, now in the National Oallerj, was parchaa«d iu 1SS6 for £1T,'600. SHAKESPBABE'S LAND. 21 of Margaret, daughter of Richard de Beauchamp, with John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsburj', from whom descended the Dudleys, Viscounts Lisle, afterwards Earls of Warwick. Notwithstanding that the existence of the " redoubtable Guy " must be relegated to the region of myths, a suit of armour seems to have been appropriated to him at a comparatively earlj' period, as in the reign of Henry VIII. ^ William Hoggeson, one of the Yeomen of the King's butter}-, was granted the custody of the sword, with a fee of 2d. per diem.* In the splay of the window is a quaint and characteristic sketch of Mrs. Comer, a former portress at the lodge, who used to exhibit, in a naive speech, the relics of Guy, which were then kept at the lodge. The Hall contains an interesting collection of arms and armour, including " A Knight in German Fluted Armour^ on a Ilorpe in English Armour of the 15th Century "' ; "A fine Tilting Suit, with Double Plates"; "Suit of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester " ; " Suit of Charles Graham^ Marquis of Montrose"; "Breastplate and Morion of Lord Brooke.' killed at the Siege of Lichfield, 1643. the Buff Coat being modern ; " Helmet of a Crusader " ; " Helmet of Sir Richard Wallace"; "Italian Damascene Helmet"; " Italian Steel Helmet "; " Helmet of Oliver Cromwell, and another Puritan Helmet'"; "A Square Painted Shield of the reign of Edward IV."; " A Pair of large Two-handed Swords ■■ ; Several " Scotch Claymores "' ; " A Swivel Arquebuse," taken from a French Privateer off the west coast of Ireland, in the last century. An Italian Trousseau Chest, and a richly carveil Oak Bench, beautifully under- cut, are also jtreserved here. 1 In lOiO. however, Dugdale expresses an opinion tnat the aruiuur &nd aecoutremento are of a later fieriod than the era of the hero, aod since that date the identitj' of the roput«d relics has no doubt become more oonfuBed, an in recent times they appear Uj have been thus compusdil :— His htlm oonsiits of a baiiciuct or headpiece of the era of Kdward III., hi* brcaitplate of !L Huiif^rian pavois or shield of the time of Henry VII., his 'jtiflcplalt, of a rizorod wall shield of the rei^ of James I., hig vallcirnf ttaf, of the shaft of an early tilting lance, his ixconl is a two handed weapon. 5ft. Oin. long, of the puriol of Heury VIII. His horit arTn.n\ir, cijuitisting of a large chamfrun or headpiece, apoitrol, worn in front of th'-- hors'j'it bn-ast, and a croupidre. to defend the horse's ttanks, is all of the time of Henrj- VI. patr Phillut Slipptri are a pair of pointed slippered stirrups, of iron, of the reign of Henry VI., and th« fork accompanying the '•porridge pot ' is a military fork of the time of Henry Vll. I'rior Uj the Commonwealth, the bfidy armour of Guy seems to have been kept at Kenilwurth Castle, and his horse armour and weapons at Warwick. Tlie bn, foruierlr l>elongiiig to the Spinola family. At the end of the nxini are tliree luindKome ElM>ny C.ibineis. containing some rare and excellent g)>erinien8 of i/imogtai enamels. Between the windows is a very handnorae Table of l.avi>ro di Commeaao, inlaid with flower patterns, and formerly belouj^ing to Queen Maria Antoinette. The Cedar Drawing Room is so styled from its being panelled and bordered with cedar wood, elaborately carved. It is 47ft. long by ^.'S^ft. broad, and contains some of the best examples of Van Dyck. Ceiur Drawing Rohm.— Pictures : •" Paviline Adorne. MarchoM di Brignol I, and her son," Van Ihich; " Duke of Newcastle." co])iod from Van Ih/ck : " James Graham, Marquis of Montrose" (1012-1050), Van Dyck: SHAKESPE ABE'S LAND. 29 '■Queeu Henrietta Maria" (full length), the bust by Van Di/cl; the rest of the picture oorapleted by Sir Jotliua ReynoUU : " Cliarles I." (half length), Van. Dyck- : " Robert Rich, Eaal of Wai-wick " (died 10 J8), Old atoiii : *" Beatrice Cosantia, Princess
  • nie line Buhl Tables, a beautiful El>juy Casket, and a charming Statuette of Venus, inodellurobably painted about 1 j40 ; "Barbara VjUiers, Duchess of Cleveland," U'ly : "Boar Hunt." Huliem ; "A Duel," HuchUnburgh : "WiUiam RuKsell, First Duke of Bedford " (ditd 1700); "St. Stephen," Lorenzo Ji Crtdi ; " St. John," Lortnzo di Crtdi; " Two Pictures of Sainta," Andria del Sarto : "Anne, First Duchess of Bedford," daughter and sole heiress of Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset; " I>ieta, or Dead Christ," Z. Carracci : "A Reformer," (Miles Coverdale f), Willem ran Mierit; "Francis, Second Earl of Bedford," (1528-15S6) ; "One of the Beauties of the Court of Charles II.," Lely : " Henry IV. of France," in pl;iin black drese (small full length copy). If'. Patoun ; " Head of Henry VIII. when a Boy," Van Dycl- : "A Daughter of Lord Brooke"; "St. Seb.i«tian," Van'lhfck: " Old Woman Eating Pottige by Lamplight," Oerhard Dou: "Mrs. Digby Dressed as an Abbess" " Heiul of St. Jerome," Rubens: "Card Players," Ttnien : "One of the Beauties of the Court of Charlai II.," Lily : " Madonna and Child, "^aroccio.- *" Anno Boleyn," (small half length), llanf Holhein, tht younger: '"M.iry Boleyn," /^an* Holbein, the younger: "A Lan-likene»s, said t^j have been engraved ■on on emeralil jirweutud by tho Grand Turk to Pope Innocent VIII. 32 8HAKESPEAUK*S LAND. Qrkat Disiso R(X)M. —Picture*: "Lions." Hulien*: " Augusta of Saxo Cnburg. I'riiice's of Walus (171s»-1772), witli the infant prince, after- wards lieKiR. Pictures: "IjonI IJrooke"; " U-uly Jane Hamilton, ilaughtur of JaineH, Sixth Kiirl of Alwrc-orii. and VV'Ifo of 'L«>rd ^Vrchibald Hamilton " (diixl 17:i4) ; '• Uolwrt, l»rd Urooke." lt)72 (dieil I(;70) ; " Eliaibeth, Daughter of Sir H. F. Thynnu, ami Wife of Sir R. Howe " ; " John Wilniot, Seconil Karl of Rochester" ; "A L:idy," in a green dress ; " lyonl Archibald Hamilton. Seventh son of \Mlliam Douglas, Duke of Hamilton " : " Uidy Louisa. Liidy Frances, and I^a4ly Charlotte UrevUlu, Dttujjhters of Francis, First Karl of Warwick." Brkakfast Room — Pictures : "' .Joanna, Queen of Naples," ascribeil by soni6 to L. till I'iifi, but more proK-ibly by (liulio Homano, a. fine picture ; " View of the Doife's I'ahice .it Venice, with State li:u-ges In the Fore- ground," CaiKil'tto : " Staircjise in the Doge's Palace," VnnaUtto : " Rattle Piece, Jarnpo C(irt,»e (II Borgojfnoiie) ; Views of the Castle by (.'(inulMo : — (a) "The (Dastle fiom the River, i(K)king upwards towarils "the Rridge " ; (b) " Barbican, with Guy's and Caaear's 'rowers," part of the town visible on the right"; (c) " Bjirbican and Towers, from the Courtyard " ; (d) "Residential Portion of the Caatle " ; (c) " Tlie C:i«tle from the Park." The room also contains two fine Portugiiese Cabinets, and, Rtinding on a. bullet, a bciutiful collection of re SiTTiMi Room.— Pictures : "Fruit," Schiff; " Portrait of a Man," with the inscription, " /Ktatis su» 'i\ fortunaj," Porbtit : "Duke of Buckingham"; " Duke de Ferrara," IhuM Dii»ai : "Riderless Horse in Battle"; " Figure of an Angel carrying a Cloth"; "Two Htuuln of Olil Men," Rulnns : "The Present Ki.rl of Warwick," Walts: "Study of a Head of a Female " (Saint'/), Luiiii: " Heay in Armour," S'-liatkrn; "Martin Luther," llaim Holbein, tilt younpcr : "Interior of a Church"; "Tritons and Sea Horsw," Van Dycl:. The Mantle-piece is lUilian, of fine workmanship. TnECEliAH Lobby.— Kctures : "Francis, Earl Brooke"; "Schoolboy," Reynold!: "Two Portraits"; "Boy holding a Fish in one Hand and a Book in the other," Romney : "Charles I. on Horseback" (small), Kan Dyk- : "Portrait," Unknoicn : "An Old Butler"; " Capi. 33 out by Mr. Jacks, of Warwick. The ceilinp is panelleil and gilt, and tlie bookshelves are divided by nineteen pilasters, each of a different design, in the Renaissance style : the princi])nl ornamentation being medallions of verj' artistic execution. The sides of the doors are of exquisite Italian ■work, and the hooded marble chimney-piece, from Venice, is of most graceful design. Tliere is a small picture of " Dndlny. Karl of Leicester," by Van Dyck. The Shakespeare Room adjoins Cfesar's Tower, and was oriarinally a laundry, but has recently been converted into a room intended to receive a valuable collection of Shakes- peare's works. Shakespeare Room.— Pictures: "Queen Elizabeth." Guilllm fitrttet: "Robert, Earl of Leycester " ; "Ann Russell, eldest Daugliter of Francis, Second Earl of Beilford, and Third Wife of Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick " ; ''An Old Man witli a Ruff" ; "Robert Devereiix, Second Earl of Essex" (lotJT - 1601) ; "Sir William Dugdale " (1605- 1686); " Shakesjieare Writing at a Lattice Window"; •■ John Locke" (1032-17U-J), Knelhr ; "Anne, the Good Counte^^s of Warwick" ; "A Dutch Gentleman (uuknowni) of the 17th Century"; " Olirer Crom- well " <.15l'9-10'>8), H'oUtT/ "Robert, Second Lord Brooke," attributed to Dohton : " Fulke GrevLUe, First Lord Brooke" (copie,'iufi from a technical direction regarding the descent of I'indarus in Act V., most probably from an ancient playhouse copy. Among the rich collection of the poet's plays and works, the following are the most prominently noteworthy: — Shakespeare Memorials.— .V fine copy of the Folio Edition of 1623 ; '• HauiUt." lOOT, ltj;i7, 1676 ; The Whole Contention between the two famous housea. Ijtncaster anJ Yorke, kc, 16ly (second mrt of •' King Henry VI.") ; •■ King Lear," 10o8 ; " Macbeth," extracted fruui the aecond folio edition (with uianuscript alterationg of the text in a very old liand); " Merchant of Venice." 1600 ; " Romeo ami Juiiet," 1500, with autograph of Ge. Tge Steeveiis. There i» also a moet intf re»ting collection of warfrooe and proiKjrty bilbj, for the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, from 1713 to 1716, certified forpajTuent by Cibber, WUks, and B Near this bank W.ilt«r Hagut fell out of a boat, and was drtniiieil, oa the 10th Janviary, ISOo ; aged 2'J yearn. Oh cruel Avun ! tjadder than Stygian wave. M.iy (thy) swe«t-voice4U(L y My Fs?J HAi Bin. 3ITE7L ycTR. ^^^^ /(pl^. -^ V 5 1^^'Wyx. tSxyXH. CvTJEJl to H. A TRIfML-h. 2« This TiAdS TDJStTTn 36 shaeespbabb's land. Guy's Tower, which is the next showii, contains five floor?, t-acli lloor having a groined roof, and being sub- diTiridge, which replaces the ancient drawbridge, a short walk brings us to The Greenhouse, built expressly to contain and exhibit the noble proportions of the celebrated "Warwick Vase,'' one of the finest remains of Grecian art, which was purchased by George, second Earl of Warwick, from his uncle, Sir William Ilamilton. The inscription on the pedestal informs us that " this monument of ancient art and Roman splendour was dug out of the ruins of the Tiburtine villa, the favourite retreat of Hadrian Augustus, that it was restored by the order of Sir William Hamilton, ambassador from George III., King of Great Britain, to Ferdinand IV., King of Sicily, who sent it home, and was by him dedicated to the ancestral (or national) genius of liberal arts in 1774." The vase was found in 1770, during excavations carried on in the bed of a small lake, called Pantanello, overlooking the Vale of Tempe, near TivolL sixteen miles from Rome. How it came there is not known. Hadrian's villa was occupied by the Gothic King, Totila, 546 A.D., when he laid siege to Rome, and the vase may have been cast into the lake to save it from the invaders. The villa was finished about 138 a.d., but this work is of an earlier date, and is attributed to Lysijipus. of Sicyon, a Greek artist of the close of the 4th century B.C., when the beautiful or elegant style began to replace the noble severity of Phidias, and his school. The SHAKESPE ABE'S LAND. 37 vase is of white mnrbk', and is circular iu form. It is 5ft. 6in. hi.t,'h, and oft. 8in. in diameter at the lip, and is placed on a .scpiare pedestal of modern construction. The handles are formed of pairs of vine stems, the smaller branches of which twine round the upper lip, and with drooping bunches of grapes, form a symmetrical frieze. The lower rim is covered by two tiger or panther skins, of which the heads and the forepaws adorn the sides of the vase, while the hind legs interlace and hang down between the handles. Arranged along the tiger skins are several heads, all e.tcept one being those of Sileni, or male attendants of Bacchus, and the single exception being a female head, probably that of a Bacchante or Faun, though some have held that it is a modern renovation representing Lady Hamilton. Between the heads are thjTsi or bacchic staves twined round with ivy and vine shoots and litui, or augural wands, used in taking omens. The uses of the vase, which holds 163 gallons, have been the theme of speculation. Many suppose it to have been a vessel designed to contain wine, mixed with water, and intended for the centre of a chamber devoted to festive uses, but it was more probably constructed solely for decorative ])Ui7ioses, and may have formed the ornament of a temple of Bacchus. Historic Notes on the Castle. According to tradition, there was a fortress here in Roman times, which may have been one of the forts established by Agricola, a.d. 79, and mentioned by Tacitus. The ancient name of the town, " Waring wic," or the village of the Waring tribe, is, however, of Saxon origin. About 544, Saint Dubritius established his episcopal seat at All Saint's Church, within the Castle walls. In 1125, this church was united to that of St. Mary, in the town, and no trace of it remains. In the year 915, Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great " made a strong fortification here, called the Doungeon, upon a liill of earth artiticially rai.sed, near the river side, on the we.st jiart of the Castle." The fortifications are said to have been enlarged and strengthened by Turchil, Earl of Warwick, in the time of the Conqueror. In the reign of Stephen, Gundreda, Countess of Warwick, widow of Roger de NeAvburgli, expelled the King's soldiers, and delivered the Castle to Henrv, Duke of Normandy, afterwards Henry II. In I'JW, William Mauduit, Earl of Warwick, wlio had espoused the King's cause against the Barons, was surpriseil here by an expedition under the command of Sir John 38 8HAEESPE ABE'S LAND. Giffnrd, governor of Kenihvorth Castle, in the interests of the rebols. Tl e Earl ami Countess were carried off prisoners to Kenihvorth, and the walls, with the exception of the towers, were beaten down. In lliGO, Henry 111. made the i)lace his headquarters while his anny was being recruited for the famous siege of Kenihvorth. Some rebuilding must have taken place in the reign of Edward II., as (iuy de Beauchamp l)rought Gaveston here a ])risoner in 131'2. On the death of Guy de Beauchanip, in 1315, Hugh le Despenser, the royal favourite, obtained the custody of the Castle, ami entertained Edward II. in February, 1326. In the reign of Edward III., Thomas de Beauchamj) rebuilt the " outer walls with divers towers "; this did not include Guy's Tower, which was the work of his second son and succe.«sor, also nametl Thomas, at a cost of £395 OS. 2(\. llenrj- V. came here, in 1417, as the guest of Ricliard de Beauchamp. Richard Xevil, the stout Earl of Warwick, the King-maker, who acquired the Castle in right of his wife, Anne, the heiress of the Beauchamps, brought Edward IV. here as a prisoner in I-MJU, after capturing him in his camp at Wolvey, in the north-eastern part of the county, and subsequently carried him to his Castle of Middleham. After the death of the King-maker, the Castle became the property of his son-in-law, George, Duke of Clarence, who purposed effecting great additions to the pile, but did not live to complete them. His wife, Isabel, died here in 1476. Richard III. stayed here in August, 1483, and again in August, 1484. In the reign of Edward VI., the Castle was granted to the Dudley family, and, in the reign of Elizabeth, •was held by Ambrose Dudley, who entertained the Queen here in 1572 and 1575. It seems j^robable that Amy Robsart was a guest here somewhere about the year 1558, as there is a tradition at Moreton Morrell that, while on a journey, she stayed at the Manor House there. She was then living at Denchworth, in Berkshire, and her destination would, therefore, probably l)e the castle of her brother-in-law. After the death of Ambrose, the Castle reverted to the Crown, and seems to have fallen into decay. In 1G05, it was granted to Sir Fulke Greville by King James I., and is then described as being in a very ruinous state, the strongest and .<;ecure.st parts being made use of for a county gaol. Sir Fulke expended £30,000 in repairing and adorning it, and a])pears to have added the eastern i)art adjoining the (Ireat Hall, and the western portion, com- mencing with the State Bedroom. Here he was visited by o n SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 39 James I. in 1617, lfil9, 1621, and 1624. In the year 1642, Robert, Lord Brooke, Sir Fulke's successor, having joined the Parliamentarian forces, the Castle sustained a short siege from the Roj-alists, and -was afterwards a strong- hold of the Parliamentarian party. The Earl of Lindsey died here after the battle of Edgehill and several Royalist prisoners were confined here. In IG'Jo, it was visited by William III. in 1819, by George IV., as Prince Regent, in 1839 by Queen Adelaide, and in 1858, by Queen Victoria, accompanied by the Prince Consort, on which occasion two young trees were planted Ity the royal visitors. The Earldom of Warwick has been held by the following families: — Henrj' de Newburgh, of Neubourg, near Evreux, in Normandy, younger son of Roger de Bellomont, Earl of Mellent, promoted to the Earldom of Warwick by William I. De Neicburyh, c. 1086-1242, succeeded by John de Plessetis, who marrit'd Margery, heiress of the De Xewburghs. De Plessetis, 1243-1262 succeeded by William ^lauduit, son of William ilauduit, who married Alice, daughter of Waleran de Xewburgh, fourth Earl. Mauduit, 1262-1267, succeeded by William de Beauchamp, who married Isabel, sister of William Mauduit, and daughter of Alice, daughter of Waleran de Xewburgh. De Beauchamp, 1267-1445, succeeded by llichanl Xevil, wlio married Anne, daughter of Richard de Beauchamp. Xevil, 1445-1471, succeeded by George, Duke of Clarence, who married Isabel, daughter of Richard Xevil. Plaiitayenet, 1471-1499. Interval of 48 years, after which the title was conferred on John Dudley, descended from Margaret, eldest daughter of Riciiard de Beauchamp. Dudleif, 1.547-1589. Interval of 29 years. liich, 1618-1759. This family was not descended from the ancient house, and never possessed the estates ; it became extinct in 1759, upon which Francis Greville, Earl Brooke, descended from Elizabeth, daughter of Richard do Beauchamp, was createletely gutted, and their remains had to be pulled down, the eastern j)art only of the building being saved. Subscriptions were immediately organised for the relief of the sufferers, and for the re-building of the church, the latter work beinjj entrusted to Sir William Wilson, who carried on the business of a builder at Sutton Coldtield. The church and tower, from their lofty and harmonious proj^Mirtions, have, at the first glance, an imposing appearance, which, however, is unfortunately dispelled by a nearer inspection of the incongruous medley of classic aud got hie details which the design embodies. The Tower consists of three stages, the lowermost resting upon four arcades, one of which contains the entrance to the church, and the other three form an open porch to the street. In the second stage, on the north, south, and west sides, are Latin inscriptions referring to the foundation, destruction, and re-editication of the building. The highest stage is cro■^v^led by a semi-circular, gable-headed parapet, witli crocketted pinnacles at each angle, capped by vanes. The summit is reached by a staircase of 162 steps.' The following are the leading dimensions of the building: — Length, including choir, 180ft. 6in. ; breadth, 66ft. 4in. ; length of choir, /7ft. 3in.; breadth. 27ft. 4in.; height of roof, 42ft. (Un. : height of tower to the top of battlements, 1 The llalU nro ten iu nuniljer, tho first nine beiiiR cast between 1700 and IV'iO bv Abralutm Ru^64. In the North Transept, on the east side next to the door, is a Mm-itl Tablet, tojiijed by a divided cartouche pediment, under which are inci.'ied Brass Effigies of Thnmait Olicn and Juan his wife. lie is attired in a civic gowTi. faced with fur. She is in a high bodied gown, with a kind of scarf round the waist, and a plain cap on her head. The inscription runs thus: — " Of your charyte give thanks for the souies of Thomas Oken and Jone his wyfi, on whose souies Jesus hath mercy, Jesus hatii mercy. Amen. Remember the charyte for the pore for ever. Ao dui : mccccclxxiii." Oken was a mercer in the town, boru of poor parents. He acquired wealth through his industrj', and left estates of considerable value for tlie endowment of educatioiuil and other local charities, particulars of which are set forth in an inscription added to this monument when it was re-erected. Against the north wall is a pretentious Marlile Monument to Thomas Hcwett, who died 1737. It consists of a tablet between two three-quarter columns of the Doric order, topped by a divided compass pediment, with an urn and books in the division. On each side, over the pediment, is a mourning cherub. Next to this is a Monument to William Johnsfun, M.D., who died 1725, and Anyie his wife, who died 17."i3, and left her whole estate for tlie bt-netit of the local poor. Against tlie west wall is a Marlilf Monument, with a pujiniiig inscrijition in Latin, to Francis ILAyuke and his family.' In tlie South Transept, against tlie east wall, is a Marble Monument to John N»rtun, dejiuty recorder of the borough, wlio died 1015. North of the entrance to the Beauchanij) Chapel is a white Marble Slab, bearing the incised brass elllgies of the I Francis Holyoko was Hector of Southaui, aud publUliixl. in 1008, a rovisol and oiil»ri,'c«l udition of " Hidcr's dictionary," td and iiubli»h«d by hiiitou, Cbarlua, in 1677. 42 shakespbahe's lanp. second Thomas Beauchamp, Karl of Wnrwirk, who died 1401, nnil Maryartt his Countess, who died 140, and was, for nearly forty years, steward to Fulke, Lord Brooke. The Chancel or Choir is stated to have been built by the second Thomas Beaiichamj) in 1."39l', but from the style of the east window, and the panel work on the e.\terior of the east wall, it seems probable that these ])ortioiis were altered by Richard Beauchamp, who built the adjoining chapel. The choir is lighted on each side by four four-centre arclied windows of four lights, continued downwards in lilank panel work. The east window is of the same design but larger, consisting of si.x lights, divided by a transom, and is filled with painted glass of good workmanship, representing scenes in the life of the Saviour, erected in memory of the B.et. John B-udier, Vicar, 1815-1872. On each side of the window are niches for statues. The roof is groined in four bays, in the centre of each of which is an octagonal panel, containing an angel bearing a shield with the arms of the Beauchamps. Flying ribs, springing from the spaces between the windows, contribute to the support of the roof in an unusual ami elegant manner. On the south side, near the Altar, are four Sedilia in the form of recesses in the stonework ; to the east of these is a piscina. On the north side of the Altar is a richly groined recess, faced with three arches, which probably served as a "Holy Sepulchre" in Passion Week.' 1 Tlie Hdly Sepulchre wn« typicnJ of the tomb, hewn o,it of the rock, in which the Ixxly of Johuh was laid, and, at Eastor, the IltMurrection of oiu Lord wan Bolemnly comnuMiionitwl by curtain rfliKi<'>"< ccrenmnie* repre- MOting tliat event, jwrfonued at this particular »i>ot. On Gej>ulctire ; thu dour of the ■eptilclire wna tlioii shut, ami on that and tho following night, uatchwl by immonH api»>inti-il for that pnriKiw;, in imitation of thu Holitlurs not to gnanl tlio b<«ly of Chritit ; anil uarly on Kiuitur morning, tho hoot and crucifix wero romoTwl with groat Mileninity. tha jirient at tli« uiniu timo pronouncing the word», ' Surrcxit ; non ut hie' — Bloxam 44 SHAKESPE ABE'S LAND. monument or inscription marks the spot. Parallel with the choir, on the north side, are the Vestry, a large vaulted chamher. and a Corridor, separated from it by a stone screen of blank panel work about 10ft. lii^di. This corridor contains, on the south wall, a large Marble Monument, with a Latin inscription to Francis Parker, wlio was tutor, secre- tarj% and steward, for nearly forty-five years, to the sons of Robert, second Lord Brooke, and died 1693. On the west side, another large Monument, with black marble Corin- thian columns under a divided pedimental head, com- memorates Sir Thomas Puckenji(/,Jiarf. ,<\ieii 1636. There are also Monuments to Jnhn Baijley (died 17'.*-'). Maria Home (died 1834), and Jane FarniUulieU 1840), all old servants of the Warwick family. A doorway on the north side of this corridor communicates with a chamber which was anciently the Chapter Honse, l)Ut now forms r Mausoleum. The inner side of it is rectangular, and tie outer, semi- hexagonal in shape. Around the sides are nine stone seats under recessed canopies. The centre is occmiied by the huge and ponderous looking Tomb of Fulke Greville, first Lord Brooke, who died September 30th, 16iJ8, aged 74. The monument consists of two stages, each supported by Corinthian pillars. The upper stage terminates in triangular pediments, the lower, which is composed of a double arcade, contains a Sarcophagus on a raised base. Round the verge of the upper slab is the following inscription, written by the deceased " Fvlke Grevill, servant to t/veene Elizabeth, Conceller to King lames, and frend to Sir Philip Sidney. Trophaj\TU peccati."' The manner of his death is thus related by Dugdale:— " Delaj-ing to rewanl one Hay ward, an antient servant, that had spent the most of his time in attendance upon him, being exy)Ostulated with for so doing, received a mortall stab in the back, by the same man then private with him in his bed-chamber at Brook -house * in London, 3<) Sept., ann. 1628. who, to consummate the tragedy, went into another room, and ha^•ing lock't the dore, pierced his own bowells with a swonl. After which — viz., 27 Oct., the said Lord Brook's body being wrapt in lead & brought to Warwick, was there solemnly interred in a vault on the north side the Quire of S. Marie's Church, under that beautifull monument, erected by himself." Beneath the choir is The Crypt, to which access is obtained through the floor of the corridor, or by a doorway on the north side. The Crj-pt is divided longitu- * A trophy of sin. * Stood on the sjta of the present Biooke Str««t, Holbom. shakespeahe's laxp. 46 dinally by four piers, tlio three westerraost of tlio.-e are Norman, with cushion shaped capitals, and are relics of the church of Roger de Newburgh. early in the 12th Century. The eastermost pier is octagonal, in the Decorated Style of the 14th Century, and is evidently an addition made by Thomas de Beauchamp. A portion of an old Cucking .Stool, for the punishment of disorderly women and scolds, is E reserved here. The room under the vestry, formerly nown as the Friar's Kitchen, now serves as a burial place for the Warwick family. The Chapel of Our Lady or Beanchamp Chapel was founded by tlie will of Richard IJeanchiimii. Karl of Warwick, as a Mortuary Chajiel for himsnlf, and ranks as one of the finest structures of its kind. The building was commenced in 1443, and finished in 146^4, but was not con.?ecrated till 1476. The cost of it wa.s £2,481 4s. 7*d., equivalent to i;4(.i.(H>() in the present day. The exterior walls and Imttresses are covered with panelled tracerj-, and the apex of the ^able at the east end is occupied by a canopied niche, containing in the centre a representation of the Virgin carrying the infant Christ, and, on each side of her, figures of Simeon and Anna, the prophetess, the two latter being rfKstorations executed about 1780. The entrance is by a doorway in the south transept, which conducts to the cha])el by a descent of a dozen steps, the floor being much lower than that of the church, OT\-ing to the absence of a cr\'i)t beneath it. On each side of the doorway is a canopied niche with a bracket beneath, both ornamented with minuti; tabeniaclf^ work. The hollow moulding above contains foliage and the ragged staff, the cognizance of the Beauchara})s. Above this is a shield with tlie Beauchamp arms, sup] )orted on each side by the bear and ragged staff. This entraiife has been stated to to liave been designed and carved by a jioor masnn, of Warwick, in the year 1704, but it is manifestly too finished in its composition to have been anything bu^acojpy ora restoration. Inside, over the doorway, is a small gnllerj', intended, according to the covenant for the building, for an organ loft, but possessing no visible means of access. The north and south walla are covered wifli ])aiiel work tracorj', the part underneath the windows taking th^ form of canopied niches, with subjacent brackets. The juinelling of the west wall is surmounted by a hollow moulding, containing well sculptured rei)resentations of animals and foliage, among them l)eing an animated carving of a lion attacking a hart. On each side of the cliapel are oak stalls, the standards of which have carved finials. The elbows of 46 SUAKBSPEAHE'S LAND. the seats are efifectively carved witli figures of lions, grifiiiKS, and muzzled Ijeurs. The Altar-piece represents the annunciation of the Vir^'in, sculptured in has-relief in the year 173o, by a Mr. Collins, of Warwick, from a design by Lightoler. Thougli not harmonizing with the arcliitecture of the chapel, it is a meritorious work; but the canopy above is an indiffurent com])Osition. The East Window deserves special examination for tin- curious and intiTesting style of its ornamentation. Tlie vfrtical mullions of tluj principal divisions, as well as the jambs and the moulding of the arch, are tilled with canopied niches, containing upwards of tliirty gilt and painted statues, amongst which are St. Alic/ui'l, St. Catherine, St. Man/aret, and St. Barbara, with tlieir emblems, as well as conventional delineations of virtues, principalitits, and jjowers. On eacli side of the window are niches with elegant canopies of tabernacle work, now destitute of images. The painted glass in this, as in the otiier windows, has suffered from maltreatment. It formerly contained representations of tiie founder, with his wives on each side, and his son and four daughters underneatli, in kneeling attitudes. Of these, only the body of liichard Beaiic/iaitip remains, with a tabard over his armour, the head being taken from a female figure; of the fourteen other ligures, the only ones capable of identification are St. Albaii, in urnuiur. witli a tuliard and mantle, carrying in his rigid hand a staff, and in his left a penthouse covered, cross ; St. Thomas, <>f C'aiiterhury, attired in a white alb and purple tunic, with dalmatic and cope, having a mitre on his head, and a crozier in his hand ; and St. John, of BridUnfitun, as an abbot, bareheaded, and carrying a fiastoral staff with the crook turned inwards. Among other ragments, the head of the Saii' ur may be distinguisiied, wearing the crown of thorns. The bear and ragged staff are introduced alternately in each compartment. In the up])er and smaller lights cherubim are represented. The general effect of the window is brilliant and impressive in a high degree. The heads of tiie other windows are filled with unconnected fragments, jirincipally representing angels playing on different musical instruments. The doorway on tlie north of tiie altar leads into a vestry, now utilised as a library, consisting of a collection of old works on Divinity. The Roof is groined in three bays, the groining being of siicli an intricate character that the whole roof has the a-^pect of being covered with network. The three central compartments contain the following subjects: — (1) The Virgin ^lary as Queen of Heaven, bear- shakespeake's land. 47 ing tlie sceptre and globe, a nimbus round her bead, and the moon at her feet (2) A Shield, bearing the founder's arms underneath the helmet and crest, encircled with a coronet. (3) The De Nfwl)urt,'li Arms, borne by a lialf length angel. On tiie north side of the chapel, opposite the tomb of the founder, is a flight of si.\ steps, leading to a doorway which opens into a small lobliy with a panelled stone roof, containing some ancient stall seats. On the opposite side is a doorway leading into the choir of the church. On the west side is a doorway, conducting to another lobby, with a jjiinelled roof of different design to the last ; at the end of this lobby is a newel staircase to the roof. On the ea.st side of the loblty is a small Chantry Chapel, with a roof ricldy groined witli fan tracery, composed of cones and semi-cones, covered witli foliated panel work. On each side of tlie east window, which is of two lights, is a highly wrought canopied niche, still retaining the iron clamp by which the image within was attached. On the south side is a screen of open panel work in seven divisions, and fixed against this, near the altar, is a small and remarkalily rare form of Piscina, witli an angular shaft formed wholly of wood. On an old chest on the floor are four Heraldic Earred Helmets of the latter part of the 16th century, constructed for the purjiose of forming part of funeral achievements, fixed above the monuments of deceased knights. This little chapel was probably intended for the performance of low mass, the principal altar in tlie adjoining chajiel being reserved for tlie celebration of high mass. ()n the iiortli side, four much worn steps conduct to a compartment which looks into the choir througli some perforated panel work. This proltably served as a ])rivate closet or pew from wliich members of the Warwick family could take part in the office of high mass. At tiie east end of this is a hagioscope or oblique opening in the wall, through wliicli the elevation of the Host at high mass might l)e witnessed. Among tile most striking features of this splendid chapel are tlie grand tombs wliich it contains. Tlie earliest and most rcsjileiidi'iit of tliese nionuinciits is the High Tomb of the Founder, Earl Richard Beauchamp, which stands nearly in the centre of the building. It is conijjosed of grey Purbeck marble, on which his effigy, in gilt brass, rests, encompassed by a hearse or framework for sujiporting the pall. The sides and eneo laus et gloria : defunctis misericordia." ' The male weejiers are attired in a mantle or mourning habit, the females in low bodied gowns, with initn-d lieatl dresses and short mourning tijjpets hanging lieliind. Commencing at the head of the tomb, the figures represent tlie followinj^ personages connected with the deceased: — (1) Cicely,'' wife of Henry Beauchamp, carrying a scroll. {'2) Henry Beauchamj),^ holding a liook. (3) Kichard Neville,* Earl of Salisliury, holding a scroll. (4) Edmund Beaufort,' Diike of f>c)merset, liolding a liook. (."j) Humjiiirey Stafford, Duke of Buckintrham. (H) John Talbot,' t lie great Earl of Shrewsbury-, holding a book. (7) Kichard Neville,^ Earl of Warwick (tiie King-maker), holding a book. (8) George Neville,' Lord Latimer, liolding a chaplet of beads. (9) Elizabeth," wife of Lord Latimer, holding a rosary. (10) Ann,' wife of the King-maker, holding her right hand up to her chin, her left holding a rosarj'. (11) Margaret," wife of John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, holding a scroll. (12) Ann. wife of Humphrey Staft'ord, iJuke of Buckini;ham, holding a rosarv. (13) Eleanor," wife of Edmund Beautort, Duke of Somerset, holding a book. (14) Alice," wife of Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, holding a rosarv in both hands. The elligA' of the Earl is ro])resented in full armour. Round the left leg, a little below the knee, is the garter. The head, which is bare, lies on the tilting helm ; the feet rest against a muzzled bear and a grillin. Tiie hands are not joined in prayer, but are uplifted in an unusual position. The hearse over the tomb Ls constructed of six hoops, connected by poles, four of which have the arms of the Earl at each end, and the central i)ole has the arms of France and England at its eastern end, and the badge of the garter at the other. \t each corner of the tomb are poles, with moulded ends, which probably sustained the mortuary lights burning round the tomb. The pall, which was of crimson velvet with a deep gold fringe, was removed about the end of the last century, owing to the injury it occasioned to the niches, by being drawn up and down when the monument was shown. tXirther aisfigurement has unfor- iTi>Gy the plaster casting, taken for tho Crystal Palace several years ago. The followiug inscription, on two narrow plates, runs round tJie verge of the tomb, plentifully interspersed with the bear and ragged stalf : — " Preieth devoutly for the .Sowel whom god assoLlle' of one of the moost worshipful Knightes in his dayes of monhode '■* & conning ■* Richard 13eauchamp, late Earl of Warrewik, lord Despenser of Bergeveuuy & of mony other greto lordships whos body resteth here vnder this tumbe in a fulfeire vout' of stone set on the bare rooch ' thewhuch visited with longe siknes in the Castel of Koan *■ therinne decessed ful cristenly the last daj- of April the yer of ouro lord god A mccccx-xxii, he being at that tyme Lieutenant geu'al and governer of tlie Koiahue of ffraunce and of the Ducliie of Normandie by sullicient Autorite of oure i^ou'aigne lord the Kiug Harry the VI., the whuch body with grete deliberacou' and ful worshipful comluit 13i tsee And by loud was broght to Warrewik the iiii day of October the yer aboueseitle and was leide with ful Soleune exequies' in a feir chest made of stone in this Chirche afore the west dore of this Chapel according to his last wille and Testament therin to reste til this Chapel liy him devised i'his lief were made Al thewhuche Chap'.l founded on the Kooch '' And alle the membres therof his E.xecutours dede fully make and ApparaUle** By the Auctorite of his Seide last Wille and Testament And therafter By the same Auctorite Theydide Translate fful worshipfully the seide Body into the vout abouseide, Honnrt-d be god therfore.'' Again.st the north wall of the chapel, enclosed by an iron railing, is the gorgt'ous Monument of Eobert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, which strikingly u.xliitiits thu dtradeucf in art which had takt-n place since the date of the erection of the tomb of the founder. The whole structure has been aptly termed " a mountain of confectionery." The tomb, on which lie the recumbent eiHgies of the JmitI and Countess, j)roject8 considerably from the wall. The front of it, which is divided into three comitartmeuts, contaiui*, in the centre, the armorial bourings of the Earl. At the back of the tomb is a n)i*to.sive superstructure, sustaintnl by two Corinthian coluLuus at each en Time hiui all things, i.e., all things yield to tim». ' What will bo, will be. SHAKESPEABES LAND. M mat rolled up, and his feet rest upon a muzzled bear. Below the left knee he wears the Order of the Garter, the insignia of which are also embroidered on the mantle over the left shoulder. On tlie ujjper part of the tomb is the following inscription: — " Ileare under this tombe lieth the corps of the L. Ambrose Duddeley, who, after the deceases of his elder brethereu without issue was soune and heir to John Duke of Northuml)erlande, to whom Q: Elizabeth, in ye first yeare of her reigne, gave the ilanor of Kibworth Beauchamp in the county of Leyc : to be helde by ye service of l)eing pantler ' to y Kings l^ Qvenes of this Realme at their Coronations, which oliice and manor his said father and other his ancestors Erles of Warr : helde. In the second yeare of her reigne, y«^ said Qvene gave him the office of Mayster of the Ordinnvnce. In the fowrtli yeare of her sayd reigne, slie created him Baron Lisle and Erie of Warwyk. In the same yeare she made him her Livetenant Generall in Normandy, and dvringe the tyme of his service there he was chosen Knight of ye Xoble rder of ye Garter. In the TAvelvth yeare of her reigne ye said Erie & Edward L : Clinton L : Admerall of England, were made Livetenantes Generall joinctely and severally of her ila^-ies army in the north partes. In the Thirteenth yeare of her reigne, the sayd Qvene bestowed on him ye office of Chief Bvtler of England, and in the xvth yeare of her reigne he was sworne of her Pre'S'j-e Covnsell. Who departinge this lief wtbovt issve ye xxi. day of Eebrvary, 1589- at Bedford Howse.^neare the city of London, from whence, as himself desired, his cori)8 was conveyed and interred in this place neare his brother Robert E: of Leyc : ifc others his noble ancestors, w^h was accomplished by his last and welbeloved wife ye Lady Anne, Covntes of Warr: who in further testimonj' of her faythfvll love towardes him bestowed this Monvme't as a remebrance of him." Against the south wall of the chapel near the east end is tile Monument of Leicester's Infant Son, Koliert, Baron of Denliigh, wIk) was between three and four years of age at the time of his deatli. It consists of a high tomb on which rests the etligy of the child, 3ft. 6in. in length. An ornamental circlet IS bound round the forehead, in which the cinquefoil, the Leicester Badge, is distinguishable. The dress consists 1 Keepor of the pantry. 3 Hb was then 61 years of age. 3 Uedfuixl Houie, strand, wan tlio town Luuho of the Earls of Bo boards of the gables on the north side attracts the eye, the gables being terminated with figures of white bears gambolling with poles in various attitudes. This side is occupied by the Master's Lodge, prominent on the front of which are coloured carvings of the bear and ragged staff, the Leycester crest, and the porcupine, the crest of the Sidneys, running beneath is the text "Honour all men; love the brotherhood ; fear God ; and honour the King." On the east side is a cloisteral corridor, leading at one end to the kitchen and at the other to the Master's Lodge. Above this, again a]tj)roached by a flight of steps from the outside is another corridor. At the top of the stairs are the remains of the old Guild Chamber, now divided into rooms for the brethren. In one of the spandrils of the framework of the roof is the red rose of Lancaster, which .seems to show that the building was erected in the reign of Henry VL On the west side is the old lianquetting Hall, and on the .south and west are the rooms of the brethren. The exterior of the quadrangle is ornamented with the quarterings of the Karl of Leycester's arms, emblazoned on 18 sejjarate shields.' The Banquetting Hall on the 'The Robiartahield is cuiispicuuiu by itaabitunco. SHAKESPEAKES LANlL OO left is HOW unfortunatelj' degraded into a laundry and a receptacle for coals. The roof timbers, which are of .Sjianish chestnut, were formerly elaborately carved in the spandrils as may be seen from the solitary example which still survives in the lower part of tlie hall. At the south end is a tablet with the following inscription :— ".Memorandum that Kiuf^ James the First, was right nobly entertained at a supper in this hull, by the Honourable ^^ir Fulk Urevile, Chancellor of the Exchequor, and one of his .Majesties most honourable Privy Council upon the fourth day of September, .\nno. Dom., 1617. God save the King." The upper part of the hall containing the minstrel gallery is now cut off, and forms the drawing room of the Master's House. The endmost tie beam of the roof of this severed portion i.s surmounted by open panel work. In the left spandril is a red rose, round which a serj)ent trails amongst acanthus leaves; in the right spandril is a yellow rose within a double square, and another smaller rose below. In the centre of the second beam is a l)oss carved with foliage. Above it is a niche in which Dudley appears to have placed the bear and ragged staff, but without doubt it previously contained a figure of a saint, probalily the Virgin and child, as the boss bears the inscription l.H.S. the spaces al)ove and at the side of the beam are lilled with panel work. The third beam has a yellow rose on the outer edge of the brace amongst large foliage, the op])Osite side being ornamented with acanthus leaves and berries. On the right of the quadrangle is the Kitchen, wliich contains some ancient settles and an old oak table. .Vmong the other contents are: A black oak cabinet from Kenilworth Castle ; an old Saxon chair; the chair in which King James I. sat when hesu})ped witli Sir Fulke (irevilie ; a portion of a curtain from Cumiior Hall, said to have been worked by Amy Kobsart; the Ijottom portion of Lord Levcester's will, signed " R. Leycestere"; a pair of halberds from Kenilworth; the King of Dahomey's State execution sword; an old mace; and some old copper tankards of the last ci-ntury. Retracing our steps to the outer terrace, a flight of steps conducts us to The Chapel dedicated to St. James, which stands over the West (Jate of the town, and is ajipropriated to the use of the Hospital. The tower of the present edifice was probably iiuilt by Thomas de lieaueharap towards the close of the 14th century as the embattled parapet Itears his arms. The Hying buttressfs on tiie south side are modern additions, made in 1SG3, fi»r the purpose 56 shaeespeabe's land. of strengthening tlie building. The Chapel wa^i thorouglily restored in tlie year 1863 when n number of tasteless inuovutioiis of the 18th century were removed. The fiist window of tive-lights is tille'orthuml)erland, who was popularly known by the sobriquet of the Fisher, because his father sold fish byVetail at the Market Cross of Warwick, llawkins pulled down the ancient Monastery and liuilt the present mansion, which was completed about 1565. In punning allusion to his own name, he bestowed on it the title of " Ilawkin's Nest or Hawk's Nest," partly on account of its being situated in a pleasant grove of Elms. The house contains a lofty hall, lighted by tall windows, a handsome oak panelled dining room, and an old oak staircase. The north front ]ireserve8 its old features, but the south was rebuilt about 1750, in the stylo then prevalent. In September, 1571. the Earl of Leicester spent several days at the Priory, and on tlie 28th of October following, the Marquis of Northampton, brother to Queen Katliarine Parr, diey Mr. Sampson Lloyd, Jiinr. Extending westwards from the eml of Northgate Street is the Saltiflford. The site on which the Warwick Brewery now stands, in this locality, was, on the 2nd of April, 1781, 56 SHAKESPEAnE'S LAND. the scene of the execution of Captain Donnellan, for the murder of liis brother-in-law, Sir Theodosius Boughtou, at Lawford Hall. lu July, 1825, a disgraceful so-called combat took place on the same spot between a tame lion, namt'il Nlto, belonging to Wombwell's Menagerie, and six bull-ilogs, in which the lion was held to have neen worsted. Subsequently another lion of ferocious temper, named Wallace, was baited, and quickly nuiimed all the dogs slipped at him. At tlie lower end of the fcfaltisford, next to the (ireen ilan public house, are the remains of the Church of St. Michael, founded about the end of the reign of Henry I., and rebuilt in the 14th century. The walls, whicli measure 3^ft. in length, by 18ft.' in breadth, are still standing, and the east window, though blocked up, may yet lie traced, though the building has been converted into a blacksmith's shop. A unique feature of Warwick is the Atelier of Mr. Koidall, the celel>rated wood carver, some of whose work decorates the dining room of the House of Commons. Nothing can exceed the rare and delicate beauty of execution of the birds and foliage which grace his studio in Chapel Street, with many other types of his artistic skill. Tn the west of the town is the Common, which also forms the Raceground, on which races are held in the Spring and Autumn. The course, which measures nearly two miles in circuit, is considered one of the best in the kingdom. There is a lofty Grand Stand for spectators, with every convenience for racing purposes attached to it. ROUTE 4.— LEAMINGTON TO LONG ITCIIINGTON, VIA LILLINGTON, CL'BBINGTON, AND OEFCIIUKCH. The villages of Lillington, Cubbington, and Oflfchurch may each be reached by pleasant footpaths, commencing at the top of thf Holly VValk. Lillington lies at a distance of a little more than a mile from the Parish Church of Leamington, along the road to Eugby. The church consists of a fine battlemented tower and nave of the 14th Century, a chancel, the western part of which is of the same period, and the eastern, a modern addition of the year 1884. and north and south aisles and a south porch, erected in 1847. There are two Norman doorways, one on the south of the chancel, and the other on the north of the chancel aisle, removed from an ancient vestrj- ; there is also a blocked-up low side window in the south chancel wall. The modern reredos of Caen stone and Devonshire marble, T^-ith a carving of "The Last Supper" in the centre, is handsome, and so likewise is the jjulpit, which is of similar matei-ials. In the churchyard, facing the vestrj", at the east end of the north aisle, is a tombstone with the following inscription :— In memory of William Treen, who died 3rd Febry., 1810, aged 77 years." I Poorly liv'd and Poorly Dy'd Poorly Buried, and no one Cry'd. Treen, who was known as " Old Billy Treen, the miserd" is said to have been a road scraper, wlio lived miserably by begging potato peelings and turni])S from the farmers,' anil unsuspectedly amassed money, which was discovered when he died. A little more than a mile from Lillington, tli(> road branches off to the right to Cnbbington Church, which 8taneriod, and the church, generally, is of this epoch, with the exception of 60 shaeespbabe's land. three semi-circuliir pluiu recessed Xorman pier arches, which separate the south aisle from the nave, and vliich are the remains of an earlier structure. At the east end of the south wall of the south aisle is a beautiful tracery- headed combined credence and piscina, and in the north wall of the north aisle is an aumbiy. On the south side of the chancel is an aumbry, piscina, and triple ogee-headed sedilia. On the opposite side is the arch of a Holy Sepulchre, used at Easter for the performance of solemn mourning observances. The brass altar rail, of excep- tionally good workmanship, is by Skidmore, of Birmingham. The font, which stands under the tower, has a circular bowl of the Norman period on a modern base. Further down the road, at the corner of the village street, is a farm house occupying the site of the great mansion of the parish, the residence of the Greswolds, whieii was taken down at the end of the last century. The summer-house still remains, but converted into a pigeon- house, and there is also an old chimney, with the date 1617 cut in a stone panel. The kitchen window contains the Shuckburgh arms. From hence, in a little more than two miles, the road conducts to the village nf OfFchurch, the church of which, situated on a hill, consists of a nave, chancel, south porch, and western embattled tower. The south porch is Early English circa, 1180-1200. The foundation stone has the carved figure of a serpent ; another similar figure is carved over the Norman window on the south side of the chancel. On the north side is a Norman doorway (c. lllO-ll'iO) with star and star-pellet mouldings, adjoining a buttress of enormous width an-, bears shot marks, probably the result of a skirmish in August, 1642. The nave is Farly English, with a Perpendicular west window, and the chancel arch and chancel are Norman. The roof is of open timber, and one of the tie-beams bears'thc date 1592, On the north side of the altar is an aumbrj-, and on the south a piscina and a stone sedilia for the priest, constructed in one of the lights of the window nearest the east end. The curfew is tolled here nightly at eight o'clock. A mile west of the church is Offchurcli Bury, the seat of Jane, Countess of Aylesford. The house, which stands on the west bank of the Leam, in a pleasant park, studded with groups of elms, is of various periods, the earliest part dating from the reign of Henry VIII. The site, which is S'hakbspeabb's land. GI said to have been auciently occupied by a palace of Offa, who was King of Mercia from 755 to 796, belonged, after the Conquest, to tiie Priorj' of Coventry, and was, at the dissolution, grunted to Sir Edmund Knightley, the last descendant and heiress of whose Juimily married Heueuge, sixth Earl of Aylesford. In front of the house, overhanging a piece of ornamental water, is a mugnilicent old chestnut tree, the lower branches of whicli droop like a banyan tree. One of the upper rooms contains some fine oak panelling, with a cornice carved with grotesque busts, and a handsome Jacobean mantlepieco l)earing the Knightley arms, and flanked by two curious female figures. A case in the room contains some interesting Roman and Saxon relics, found in a gravel pit in the village. In the grounds are three hollow stone capitals, used as flower vases, and said to be the capitals of pillars from King (Jffa's palace. Mr. J. A. Cossins, the well-kno^\-n arcliitect, who has examined them, expresses the following opinion : — " The capitals, which have a decidedly Byzantine character, cannot be later than the 11th Century, and almost certainly stood singly and undetached. 1'1'fy would therefore appear to have carried the springers or cross vaulting on a small arcade. Capitals such as these, but not with such pro- nounced survivals of classic detail, are now carrying the groined vaults of the crypt of Canterbury, but these resemble the capitals of the upper arcades in the church of St. Sophia, at Constantinople more nearly than any others that I have seen." From hence, in three-and-a-half miles, the road reaches Long Itchington. The church, tlie body of which was rebuilt in the 14th Century by tiie priors of Maxstoke, consists of nave, chancel, south aisle, a tower with a truncated steeple, and modern porch and vestrj' on the north side. Tlie spire, the lowest stage only of which now survives, was struck by lightning February '27th, 1762, and fell on the main fabric, greatly damaging it. The lower })art of the tower has a peculiar feature in the shape of sunk quatrefoils, which run round the upper part of the north, east, and west sides, the arcii opening to the nave lirt-aking tiieir continuity in tiie interior. The aisle was tlie original church, and is Early English witii the exception of the south doorway, which is Norman with plain arcades. The clerestorj' is rerpen', and given to the Lucy family, was thenceforward known as Hampton Lucy, The ciiurch, which has an embattled tower, with pinnacles, and is in tlie Decorated style, was rebuilt between the years 1822-26. In 1858, an apse, with five handsome windows, was added, together with a porch and parvise, from designs by Sir G. G. Scott, the chancel being restored at the same time. These are the best parts of the church, the remainder is of inferior execution, the framework of the windows of the aisles being of cast iron, painted. The oak stalls, by Kitt and Ratten, of Cambridge, are hand- somely carved. The windows of the apse contain painted flass,* representing the principal events in the life of St. 'eter, to whom the church is dedicated, and the Royal arras of England and Spain commemorate the gift of the church by Queen Mary. From hence, a delightful country lane, which skirts Charlecote Park, conducts to the pretty Tillage of Charlecote (nine miles).' The church, which is a small and tasteful building in the Decorated style, completed in 1853, on the site of the ancient church, consists of a south tower, nave, chancel, and mortuary chapel. The building is groined throughout, and fitted ^ By the direct road trom Barfonl to Charlecot«, the dutauco ia seven and a half tuilua. SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. G5 ^vith oak, but the chief feature of the interior is the mortuary chapel, opening out of the north side of the chancel, an40, of a fall from his horse, was the eldest .son of the preceding Sir Thomas. He is repres«'nted in annour, and bareheailed, reclining nn his left elbow. His wife, wlio died in 1648, is attired in a low l)n(iied rolie with a flowing hood, and is in a recumbent |)osition, iier head resting on a cushion. The figures, whicii are admirably finished, are remarkably fine s))ecimens of monumental art. They were executed by the celebrated Bernini, of D 66 ^S1C.VKKS1•KAUE 8 LANl). Rome, by the help of portraits sent him by Sir Thomas's widow, wlio is 8ai:;hakespeaiie's land. 67 The Great Hall, which is first entered, is a verj- handsome apartment, liglited by a tine hay window with the family arms, in which the memorable " luces " are conspicuous, blazoned in the upper part, and Hanked on each side by a smaller window. The oak wainscoting running round the hall is surmounted by small shields, seventy-one in number emblazoned with the quarterings of the arms of the Lucy family, from the time of Edmund Ironsides. Great Hali,.— Pictures : " Rtv. John Lucy," ArtaaU; " Mre. Lucy," Aitaod : " Bird's Eye View of Charlecote," taken in 109(5 (Colonel George Lucy lunl hi!< wife ill the forefeTouiul); " George Lucy," 1708; "The Three Misses Lucy," G. da Pozzo ; " Sir Thomas Lucy " fdied 1640), C. Jamseiu ; " Lady Lucy ' (die,^h), Vii,i DyrL- (origiiiiillr given by the ^iuoeii t<« Mrc. Kirk, one (if her liulies) : " Charleall."; " Arclibinlioji L:iiicl " (1673-U)4ri), .Sinn,- ; "Jniuuti II."; " Ht Jerome," Gaitto Jiiiii: " Miisiciium," yaOiilixa. " St. I'eter" ; " Portriiita r; "Ueorgo Lucy " (1768), Gnim'tfnftuyli . " Sir Thoroiut Coventry, Lonl Keejier /(ij<7i«- .■ " Maj-y Magdalene " ; " Isaliella, Wife of the Eui|)ei-oi, Ghailes v.," Tttinii: "Henry VIII.," Jlolhtiyt. The room also containx a very tine Suite, consiHting uf tuo ciibinutii, a couch, an ariuchiiir, anil ul«ht ch;iii-8, of ebony and »eu-hor«e ivory, given by Queen Klizabetli to her favourite, Loycouter, in 1675, ami brought from Konilwortli Ciuttle ; a Marqiieterie Table, formerly in the \«o8«eSBioii of Louis XIV. ; and a beautiful Kliirentine Table, inlaid with coral, lapiH lazuli, Jtc. The Dining Room has a panelled plaster ceiling of Kliza- hotlmn tyi)e, and a grandly executed buffet, by Wilcox, of Warwick, \vhicli is finely carved with game on one side, and fish and .sea-weed on the other. A huntsman, fisherman, and Ceres, occupy the toj), together with little boys engaged in agricultural occupations. On the side of the room, facing the river, there is a tine oj)en view, extending in the distance to the Welcombe Obelisk, the foreground tieing agreeably varieil by handsome clumps of trees in the ])ark. I'Yoin till' south end of thf room, tliere is a cliarming view of till' Wellesbourne Brook, as it brawls over the weir to i'oin the Avon, while the background is formed by a lamlsome avenue of lime trees, which winds away in the direction of Stratford. DiNiNd Room. — Pictures : "Fish and Fniit," Jacob Jorilariu : "Fight between a T\irkey and a Cock," M'lrhinr l/nmhcoitir ; "Dead Game, with a Uog anil Falconer," .S».'/''^»'«(lhe figure by I'dii Pi/ck). B11.1.1.VKI1 Room. — Pictures : " Mr. and Mm. Sl)encer Lucy,' (/. i>n Pnzzn; " William Shakeapeiiro " ; "William Lucy"; " Caj«MUidra Delivereil from Captivity," lUirboul (.W Guercino).- "St Jerome in the WilderncKS with his Lion and an Angel," Van Djiek : " Cottage Home Scene"; "Children with Pets" ; "Copy of the Picture of Garrick," by (lainaliorowjh : " Wilil Boar Hunt," /). VatwU. The Uilliard Table is made of oak, taken from the " Royal George," which sank at Portonioutli in 17S2. Drawinv! Room.— Pictures : " Blondel Singing to Richanl \. in Prison," Franijijiaiii' : " ,\ Venetian Musical Composer," Titian : " I.^nd»cui«3 with Figures on Horseback," Jan Both; "St. Cecilia," Domenichinn ; "Land- scape," J. KVWcJM/ "Herdsmen and Cattle," liHhciin; "Fruit," Jan Daeiilztle fheiii; " Samson Pulling Down the Temple of the Philistines," Titian: " Rest on the Flight to Egypt," Madonna with Jesus and St. John on one side, and Joseph on the other, Fra Bartolomimo ; " Gala Day on the Grand Canal at Venice," VanaUtlo; •"Head of a Girl," Grc\ii> •, " Piurro d\i Terrail, Chevalier de Bayard" (H7.'M5'J4), Sctxixtian tlil I'iombo; " I45, the Scottisii army encampeil in the park on its way northward from Hereford. From the llall, a bridge across the Wellesbourne Brook, built in the middle of the last century, conducts to a magnificent avenue of limi- trees, from whence a good view of the house is obtained. 70 SUAKESPBAUE'S LAND. About tliree-quarters of u mil>' from the Lodge Gate, on the roiiil to Stratfonl, is Littleham Bridge. Some ten yards from the west end of this bridj^e, on the right hand side, a murderous attack was, on the night of the -tth of November, 1^20, made by four men, named (^viiney, Adams, Sidney, and lleytrey, on Mr. William Hiron, a yeoman farmer, of the neighbourhood. Mr. Iliron was afterwards found lying by the roadside, his head resting in a hole, and it is said tliat this hole continues to exist unchanged, that it can never be filled, and that all attempts to fill it result in failure. It ought perhaps to be added, that there is more than a suspicion that the retention of the hole is due to the fostering care of some of the neighbouring countrj' folk, anxious to preserve the legend. The murderers were all han^'ed at Warwick in April, 1821. A mile further, we arrive at Tiddington (twelve miles), from whence a road branches off to Alveston (half a mile). The present church of Alveston, built in IS3U, is an unin- teresting building, but a quarter of a mile further in the direction of the nver, are the ivy-covered remains of the old church, consisting of the chancel, with a bell cot. In this building is a very interesting effigj* of a gentleman, dressed in the costume of the Siiakespearean period, now placed upright against the wall, but once recumbent on a high tomb, which has been destroyed. It represents Nichohs Lane, bareheaded, with a moustache and beard, the latter cut straiglit under the chin ; round his neck a short ruff is ■worn. The hair of the head is disposed in curly locks. His body vesture consists of a doublet, buttoned down in front, and belted round; on the left side a dagger or knife is attached. The hands, which are clasped, are bare. The sleeves of the doublet are worked at the shoulders and upper part of the arms. The wrists are cuffed. Trunk hose of a curious fashion, stockings, and round-toed shoes complete the dress. This effigy, from its somewhat crude execution, has the appearance of being rather the work of a skilled mason than of a consummate sculptor. On each side of the legs is a kneeling male figiire, presumably a son, represented bareheaded, with moustache and beard, in much the same costume as the effigj*, but the doublet at the loins is continued all round. In arcades at the sides of the slab, are, on the left a female, and on the right a male, and over them are a few other fragments of the tomb. Above, on a plate of copper, enclosed oy scroll work, is the following inscription : — " Here lieth bvried the bo'. Philips, and bearing, on the north side, an inscription in memory of his brother, Mark, who died in 1873. Another inscription has since been added on the west side, to the memory of Mr. R. N. I'hilips, who died in 18i)U. The monument is iL'oft. in height, and forms a cou.spicuous landmark for many miles. In the liills at the rear are extensive trenches, known as The Dingles, which take the form of a T, with soraewliat zigzag limbs. The stem of the T ranges from south to north, and the two parts are each about .oOO yards in length, and from thirty to forty feet deep, the width at the top being about forty feet, decreasing to ten or twelve feet at the bottom. The origin of this curious place has been the subject of debate ; by .some it is held to be entirely a natural formation, due to the action of running water undermining and cutting away tlie banks; by others it is maintained that it is a British entrenchment. It seems ])rolial)le that iioth con- clusions are, to some extent, correct, and that tluf work of nature was utilised by the Britons as a means of defence. The route by railway (fifteen miles) branches off from the main line ut Hatton Junction. Just before reaching Claverdon Station, on tlie rigiit, the "Stone Uuilding" is to be seen, and soon after ([uifting the station, the Church, with its square tower and clock, becomes visible. Nearing Bearley, on the same side, a glimpse nuiy be obtained of Edatone Hall, with the oiimiiieiital lake in front of it. Immediately after leaving Wilmcote, .Mary Aniens House la to be seen, a little more tluiii half a mile distant, standing by itself in the lane leading to the station. 74 SUAliKSPKARE's LAND. Before arriving at Stratford, the gables of Clopton House are observiible on the left, a little in advance of the Welcorabe Obelisk, wliich stands on the eminence above. Stratkohd-on-Avon.i The chief object of attraction is naturally the Birthplace of Shakespeare,- with tlu' adjoining woolshop, the combined hnusi's t'Dniiiiif,' a liiilf-timlKTfd structure of two stories, witli dormer windows and a wooden porch. This composite building' stands nearly in tlie centre of llenlej' Street, and now presents much the same appearance as it did at the time of the poet's birth, having been carefully restored in 1857-8 with the most scrupulous attention to every indication discoverable of its former condition. Both houses were apparently erected in the first half of the 16th century, and, at that period, the Birthplace would take rank as a comfortable ami desirable residence for a trades- man in a small provincial town. But its surroun- ings then were verj- different ; the road in front was in a primitive state, full of ruts and ridges, littered with 1 Stral/onl from the A.S. Striate, a great roaiJ or higliway, owes its name to its pogition, iu ancient tiniea, on a ford of the Avon, which wa« here cruBsed by tlie great north road from Ix>ndou to Biniiingliam. 2 E.rplanalion of the Plan of ShaXxipeart't Birthplace icith the adjoining proptrtien : A. — Cor\)oration Property. B. — The i)rii|H)rty of John Jchirnr, boUI, in 1531, to Robert Jnhnfon, who tlieruiiiKin converted it into the White Lion Inn. His descendant* held it till IfiSS, when it was sold to Edicanl £lder(on. Horace Wi»liH>le Htayetl here in 1777. 0.— The Proiicrty of George Bwl(j> r, a draper, in whose family it continued till 1031, when it was sold to Thoiuat Home, and converted into the Sirnn Inn. About 175S, the Swan was niergc75 ; these were purcha«eerty of E'Uranl Wi/llts, who bought it, in 1C7&, f loni William Wetl(letrnml, a t^iilnr, who remained the tenant. The house vma rebuilt in IMS or 1500, and converteil into a tavern, called Tlu Bell, occuiiii'il by HoUrt BrooLen ; about 1614, it again became a private tenement. ' The site of this house is now tlirown int*) the present ganleii of the Birthplace. ThomoA Na.ih, husband of 8hakeBi>earo'8 graiuMaugliter, jmrchased this i)r(i])erty in 1647. O.— The i)roi>erty of Richard Hornhi/. , a siibetiintial Hiiiith, al.so iiiircluuiod by Thomat Nash in KS'.'O. p ' and p- existuig Cottage and Kitchen of the custtKlian of .Shake«i)e.ire'» House. H.— Corjioration Proj)erty, occui)ied, in 1.505. by a glover named BraiUev, and in 1677, by a whittower name: '. ^ z - ^ • fcj ^-'^^ \" ' ■-'^^ ^-' ' ■•• J * 1 " '■ * W ■ V 1 1- 1 , • < ;}i, \ w r-r-jl o '. ;o ) "u.^-^ ■ '.O t^ M • ' '. -^ '■ u ^ Q 2 \M\I^^ >- ?3 UJ o • " \ ^■• Ml ■ ^ ^ \D< O 1 "^ z < " \ '^ '. 1 1 \ t J^ J UJ 9 'o '. \ \ ', ^ * U 'o \ '; X ^ ^ h \ ' ' 1 ', kj \.L — ' . m '• * \ all ', V- f «/> \ \ ■«**•« \ \ - — - CL Ui ^ < < ^. «/> o i ' , -: ui <^ D- 5 » - ^ ;;' --= U^ c - om over it, which had already heen formed into a separate tenement. George Hart died in 177''^, when liis projierty pas.sed to his son, Thomas. This hitter died in 17'.i.{, leavinjr the woolshop to his son .lolin, a turner, then li\ inj,' in l^ondon, but after- wards in Tewkesbury, an, and in Sejitember, 1847, the houses were purchased by a Committee of Trustees for the nation for the sum of £3,000, and the subsequent renovations and alterations cost an additional sum of between £2.0(KJ and £;3,(KX). The combiiuKl tenements suffered, from time to time, from structural alterations. About the year Kno. three eotta<,'es were er»'Cted on the garden west of the Birthjjhice, an(l, at some date before 17;iO, the we.stemmost ground floor room of the Birthplace, with the room over it, was formed into a se])arate tenement, and the whole of them were sold, in 1771, to Alderman Payton. .Ml these tenements were purchased by subscription in 1848; the threi> cottages were pidled down, their site being restored to the garden, and the severed ])ortion of the Birthplace was reunited to the original building. Between 17h; and 17!'-*, the dormer windows were taken out, ]>robably owing to the window tax having been increased in 1784, the bay windows and porch were removed, and the Birthplace was converted into a butchers shoj), with an open meat stall. In 1808, the timber framed front of the Maidenhead Inn (originally the woolshop), which had become dila]>idated, was replaced by brickwork. In 1857-8, all these innovations were removed, and the houses carefully restored to their original state. Tenancy.— The Birthplace seems to have continued in 1 In 1864, the Imtt direct deaceiidaiit <>f the family emignited to Australia. SHAKESPEARE'S LANP. 77 its orif,Mnal state until 17f*i)-'.lL>, when it was convi-rtiMl into a biitclu-r's slioi). Tlie Woolslioj), as early as ItiO.'i, appears to have been turned into an inn, known iu< the Maitlenhead, afterwards the Swan and Maidenhead until 18U8, when the title of the Swan was omitted. IXTKUIOE. — The door, which is hatclied, n]p.iis into a room, which was probal)ly the Family Sitting Room in former times. It has a pa\ ed floor, and a recessed tire- placi', and contains a liureau of a lati-r date. From hence, a doorway leads into The Kitchen, which is a few inches higluT than the adjacent room. On the left luunl side is the fireplace, the mantel of which consists of a solid l)eam of oak. Un the left of the interior of the firej)lace is a hatch opening,' to the bacon cupboard, and on the other side is an arched recess for a seat. The kitchen, which is small, is lifihteainting of the poet, which closely resemldes the bust in the church, and was jirobably coj)ie