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Lil
hakespeaee's
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C.J.RlBTON-TuRNER
-- -- -.1 ,T. LnriJ IjT t. - •
\
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND
BEINO A DE6CB1PT10N OF
CENTRAL
^ Southern Warwickshire,
BY
C. J. RIBTON-TURNER,
AL'THOH OK A HISTORY OK VAGRAKTS AND VAGRANCY, &L., &C.
IVJTII TItlliTEEN MAPS A H J) PLANS.
\
Seatniuaicn t
I'UAKK Gl.OVKH, J5.A., "CoLniEH" OiFICE.
iiinbou :
SiMi'KiN, Mak.sjiai.i,, Hamilton, Kem aM) Co,
"TumPiso: Naturane nobis hoc, iiiquit, datum dicam
an errore quodam, ut, cum ta loca videamus?, in quibus
memoria dignos viros, acceperimus multum esse versatos,
magis moveamur, quam si quando eorum ipsonun aut
facta audiamus aut scriptum aliqiiod legamus ?"
CiCEBO, Dejinibus bon. et vial. lib. v., c 2.
" Is it," said Piso, " by some natural instinct, or through
some delusion that -when we see the very spots where
famous men have lived we are far more touched than when
we hear of the things that they have done, or read some-
thing that they have written ?"'
TJT^'^ VP.Y
UMVEKSITY OF CALIFORNIA
SA:NTA BARBARA
DEDICATED TO
GEORGE W. CHILDS, ESQ.,
OF PHILADELPHIA,
AS A SLIGHT KECOGNITION
OF THE AFFECTION SHOWN FOR SHAKESPEARE
AND HIS WORKS
BY OUR COUSINS ACROSS THE SEA.
P II E F A E .
r>f the fullowing pages I have eiideavoured to set out a
description, not only of those sites and scenes ia Warwickshire
which have already excited public interest, but also of many
which have hitherto remained almost undescribed and
unknown, and which will, I venture to think, be found to
possess unsuspected claims for examination and appreciation.
My great aim has been to describe the various points of
interest in as clear and succinct a manner as possible ; that
I have never fallen into error is more than I can hope for,
but I can, at any rate, honestly plead that I have spared no
pains to make my descriptions accurate, and that everything
of an historical character is based upon researches among
original records and authorities.
In addition to this, I have to acknowledge, with the
deepest sense of gratitude, the very great aid I have received
from those best iiualiiied to further me in my work — an aid
which has Ijeen enhanced in value by the courtesy by which
it has been accompanied. The descriptions of Warwick
Castle and of Stoneleigh owe much to the courteous kindness
of the Earl and Countess of Warwick, Lord Leigh,
and -Major Fosbkry. The Marquts of Hertford, Lord
Dormer, and the late Major Fetherston Dilke have
favoured me with information regarding IJagley, Grove
Park, and Maxstoke Castle. At Compton Verney,
Offchurch Bury, Walton Hall, Charlecote, and Arbury
Hall, I have benefitted by the kindness of Lord and
Lady Willoughisy de Broke, Jane, Countess of
Aylesford, 8ir Charles Mordaunt, Mrs. Spencer
Lucy, and General and Mrs. Newdegate. At Cough-
ton, Guy's (Jliff, Baddesley Clinton, Wroxall Abbey, and
Bilton Ilnll, I have received much kind help from Miss
Throckmorton and Mr. E. Copk, the late Miss Percy^,
Lord Algernon Percy, Mr. li. C. Heath, Mrs. Hering,
nnd the late Mr. Deiiing, Mr. and Mrs. Broughton
Hi'GDALE, and the Misses I?uii)fiEMAN-Si.Mi'SON. 'J'ho
Hon. and Ukv. Walter Vkmnkv haa favoured mo with
VI. PUEFACE.
valnaMt^ notos regnrdiiifTf Lifjhtliornp and Chesterton, and
the Kkv. .1. C. IMn.nkv, the Ukv. J. II. Radcmffk, and
the liKV. I'anon Kvans have coutriljiited to my informa-
tion regarding Cok'shill, Snitterfield, and Solihull. At
Stratford-on-.\von I received most eillcient aid from Sm
Arthur Hodgson and the late Mr. Ciiarlks E. Flower,
while Mr. Uichard Savauk, the able Secretary and
Librarian of Shakespeare's House, has laid me under a
deep obligation by the unsparing way in which he
has endeavoured to meet my inquiries. At Comptoa
Wynyates, Earl Compton, Lady Alwynk Compton,
and Mr. and Mr.s. Sargext have supplied me with
information of the greatest interest, and at Weston
House and Upton House I received effective aid
from .Juliana, Uountkss of Camperdowx and Mr. W.
H. P. .Irnkins. I owe much to the pains which the late
Mr. .T. W. Godson took to supply me with information
regarding Edge Hill, which has been supplemented at
Kineton by Mr. George Lines.
At Coventry, Mr. W. G. Fretton, F.S.A., proved a
kind and welcome assistant, and my researches were
furthered by the courtesy of Mr. and Mrs. Wylky, of
the Charterhouse.
To Sir Henry Dryden I owe a debt of gratitude
for his investigation of the site of Wormleighton
House, and for his verification of the subjects of
the windows at Compton Verney and Chadshunt
Churches, as well as for other kind aid. To Mr. .T.
A. Cossins, the well known architect, I am greatly
indebted for many valuable notes from his rich researches
among the churches of Warwiclcshire, and to the accurate
scholarship of my brother-in-law, Mr. Stephen Allf,n,
I largely owe the correctness of the translations of the
Latin epitaphs. 1 have also to thank Mr. G. K. Fortescue,
of the British Museum, Sir William Flower, K.C.R.,
Director of the Natural History Museum, and Mr. .Tosrph
Hill, of Birmingham, for other valuable aid. The previous
researches of Dugdale, Halliwkll-Phillipps, M. H.
Bloxam, and G. T. (^lark have lightened my own, and
necessarily proved of great service to me. My friends
Mr. Edward Scriven and Mn. T. .1. Hawlry have given
me unsparing and valuable aid in driving me to places
which it would otherwise have been diihcult for lue to
PREFACE. VIT.
visit. To the numerous correspondents, many hundreds in
number, who have favoured me with various items of
information, I would here tender publicly, as I have
already done privately, my cordial acknowledgments for
their kindness. Last, but not least, I have to acknowledge
the great aid given me by my friend Frank Glover in
every possible form, and on e\ery possible occasion.
It only remains for me to add that I shall at all time.s
be grateful for any additional information with which
correspondents may favour me, and that the friendships I
have made and the kind hospitality I have experienced in
the course of my investigations, will always hold a
cherished place in my recollections.
C. J. R.-T.
5, High View Road,
Upper Norwood, S.E.
March, 1893.
CONTENTS.
PAGB
INTKODUCTIOX XIII
Itinebahy London to Leamington by London and
Xorth-Westem Railway and by Great
Western Railway xix
RouTB 1 Leamington 1
„ 2 Leamington to Guy's Cliff, and thence to
Kenilworth or Blakedown 14
„ 3 Leamington to War\\dck via Myton and
lid Emscote 21
„ 4 Leamington to Long Itchington i^id
Lillington, Ciibbington, and Offchurch 59
„ 5 Leamington to Strat ford-on- Avon lid Bar-
ford, Wasperton, Hampton Lucy and
Charlecote ; vid Warwick, Longliridge,
and Welcombe, and via Great ^^'L'stern
Railway ••• 63
„ 6 Leamington to Kenilworth cid Chesford
Bridge 107
„ 7 Kenilworth to Coventry vid Gibbet Hill 127
„ 8 Snittorlield to Alcester vid Bearley and
Aston Cantlow 159
„ 9 Snittertit'ld to Strat ford-on-A von vid Wilm-
cote and Bishopton 165
„ 10 Strat ford-on- Avon to Coughton vid Bid-
ford, Wixford, Arrow, and Alcester ... 167
„ 11 Alcester to Stratford-on-Avon or Wilmcote 183
„ 12 Bearley to Lapworth vid llenley-in-Arden 187
„ 13 AVarwick to Knowle and Soliliull vid Lower
Norton, Claverdon, and llenb^y-in-Ardtn 193
„ 14 Warwick to Kingswood vid llampton-on-
tlir-llill and Tinley 203
,, 15 Warwick to Baddesley Clinton vid Kow-
inytou .^ 207
A
X. CONTENTS.
PAG£
RorxE 16 Warwick to Temple Balsall via Hattoa and
Wroxall 213
„ 17 Kenilworth to Meriden vid Berkswell ... 221
„ 18 Kenilwortli to Maxstoke vid Ilampton-in-
Anlen and Coleshill 226
,, 19 Leamington to Coventrj- lid Ashow, Stone-
leigh, and Baginton 238
,. 20 Coventry to Meriden vid Allesley 249
„ 21 Coventry to Arbiiry i-id Corley, Fillongley,
and Astley, returning by Nuneaton,
Chilvers Coton, Bedworth, and Foleshill 250
„ 22 Coventry to Rugby vid Stoke, Caludon,
Sowe, Binley, Bretford, King's Newn-
ham, and Church Lawford 264
„ 23 Leamington to Rugbj- via Princethorpe and
Bilton 267
„ 24 Rugby to '^Coventrj' vid Dunchurch and
Ryton 278
„ 25 Leamington to Fenny Compton, Worm-
leigliton, Farnborough, Avon Dassett,
and Radway vid Southam 283
„ 26 Fenny Compton to Kiueton via Burton
Dassett and Gaydon, and to Radway vui
Old Leys 292
,. 27 Leamington to Ufton or Ladbroke vid
AVliitnash, Chesterton and Harburj' ... 30O
„ 28 Leamington to Tysoe vid Taclibrook, New-
l)old Pacey, Moreton Morrell, Combroke,
Butler'.s Marston, and AVhatcote 308
„ 29 Leamington to Lighthorne and Kineton ... 314
,, 30 Leamington to Warmington 316
„ 31 Warwick to Radway ind AVellesboume,
Compton Vemey, Kineton, and Little
Kineton 319
,, 32 Warmington to the Rollrich Stones vid
IMgf Hill, L'pton. Ty.soe, Compton Wyn-
yates, Brailes, Cherington, and Long
Compton 337
CONTENTS. XI.
PAGE
Route 33 Fenny Compton to Sulgrave via Wormleigli-
ton and Culworth, and Banburj' to
Sulgrave via Thorpe Mundeville 367
Addendum and Cobrigenda 374
List of Painters and Sculptors • with the
Localities in the County in which
their Works are to be found 375
Table of Distances by Road from Leamington 391
Table of Distances by Road from Coventry ... 394
Table of Fares from Leamington by London
AND North-Western Railway 395
Table of Fares from Leamington by Great
Western Railway 396
Table of Farbs from Stratford-on-Avon by the
East and West Junction Railway... 397
Table of Fares from Stratford-on-Avon by
Great Western Railway 398
General Index 399
MArS AND PLANS.
1. MAV OF WARWICKSHIRE
5. PLAN OF LEAMINGTON
3. (iliOUND PLAN OF WARWICK CASTLE ...
h PLAN OF WARWICK
5. GROUND PLAN OF SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE
r,. PLAN OF STRATFORD-ON-AVON
7. GROUND PLAN OF KENILWORTH CASTLE
8. PLAN OF COVENTRY
0. GROUND PLAN OF MAXSTOKB PRIORY ...
10 GROUND PLAN OF STONELEIGH ABBEY ...
11. BATTLEFIELD OF EDGE HILL
n. PANORAMA OF EDGE HILL FROM SUN RISING
13. GROUND PLAN OF COMPTON WYNYATES
PdV-
XIII
1
2,i
1U
S4
lOS
US
■i35
21.0
:iSO
31,0
.v,r,
m
WAiryrLMSsEiRiL
IXTRODUCTIOX.
Ax old writer in doscribing Warwickshire ^ say? " it is
situated near unto the heart of EngLind, and, therefore,
participates witli her in the best, both for air and soil,
wanting notliing either for the pleasure or profit of man.
It may most accurately be described as the county of leafy
lanes and beautiful rural panoramas. Notwithstanding the
absence of conspicuous elevations within its borders, the
views in various parts are of great expanse, extending at
Edge Hill on a line day to a distance of upwards of ninety
miles from the spectator. The natural beauties of the
shire have been enslirined by the " Poet of all time " in the
fruitful imagery which he has drawn from its meadows
and l)anks teeming with wild flowers of A'aried hue, its
woodlands clustering on the hill sides, and its streams
purling tlirough many a sylvan nook and richly carpeted
meadow.
The nomenclature of the natural features of the county,
and especially of its rivers, presents many traces of its
Celtic inhabitants, which prove them to have been of
Gat'lic race. The Avon (Ahhainn river) above Wai'wick is
sometimes termed the Dove {Dobhar, little water). The
Sow is the Samhadh, or sorrel producing river ; the Dene,
t.\w. Dian, the strong or vehement ; the Stour, the Srutk,
tlie stream ; the Alne. tlie Alainn, the bright or lovely ; the
Arrow, the Airyead, or silver river ; the lilythe, the BlaThach,
or flowery; the Cole, tlie ('nil, or liazel tree river; and the
Leam, tlu- Leanih, or tlie elm tree river. The titles of the
ancient divisions of the county into the Arden or table
land («/Y/a/i, little height) and Feldon, or lowland (falta,
enclosed fields) are also of Celtic origin. Other traces of
tlie racf are to be found in the remains of the British Camp
at Nadbunj, and several smaller entrenchments, in several
sepulchral tumuli, notably Alcock'a Arbour, near Alcester,
I Tlie pr»»sent description embraces about two-tliird» of the county.
XIV. INTKODCCTION.
and the weird old RoUrich Stones on tlie south western
borders of the county.
Traces of tht- Romans are to be found in the roadways of
Icknield or Ryknield Street running close to the western
border, the Fons-va;/, which crosses tht.- county from High
Cross to Ilalfonl, iind Watlimj Street, which skirts the
northern boundnrj'. The earthworks of two C'astra ..Estiva
or summer camps are still standing at tV/r/<y and VheMertoit,
and traces of Roman occupation liave been frequently
found at Akeder.
Few vestiges of Saxou times are to he met with, possibly
owing to the fact that the Danes carried their settlements
into tlie north eastern part of the county, and devastated
the whole of it during the tenth and eleventh centuries.
Of tlie principal towns, Coventry seems to have been a
Celtic agricultural settlement, on which a Saxon monastery
was engrafted, and is now of interest for its .striking
remains of medieval grandeur. JJ'ana'ck was the settle-
ment of a Saxon tribe, and commands attention for its
noble castle and other architectural monuments. Sfratfurd-
on-Av<'7i was a Saxon station on an important ford, which
has had undying fame conferred upon it by one of its sons.
Huffbi/ was a Danish colony, which now attracts notice for
its widely known school, while Leamingt<m, which may
have been the abode of a small Celtic tribe, and only sprang
into importance at the end of the eighteenth century, now
engages attention for the curative qualities of its waters
and its pleasant sjivan appearance as a town.
Points of Interest.
The grand Castles of Warmck and Kenilworth are each
renowned throughout the land, the one well preserved and
retaining many of its pristine features, the otlier a majestic
ruin, round which botli historj'and romance have thrown a
halo of absorbing attraction. Max^toke is still a tine
specimen of an Edwanlian Castle. Baddeslei/ Clinton is an
excellent and well preserved examjde of a moated manor
house of the 15th centurj*. Compton Wynyates is a splendid
model of a princely Tudor mansion, unique in many of its
features, and (\iuyhiim Court is a grand example of a gate-
house of the same style. Charlecote Hall is a handsome
type of the Elizabethan period. Wormleiyht'n House, as it
now stands, i.s an interesting relic of a slightly later time.
Stoneleiyh Abbey and Combe Abbey retain some portions of
their oM monastic buildings, and the ruins of Maxstoke
Priory are still of picturesque interest, while the remaining
INTEODUCTION.
XV.
traces of Kenihcorth Priori/ convey suggestions of its former
Btateliness. A considerable amount of varied interest
centres in tlie more modern mansions of liar/ley Jlall,
Coitipton Venieij, Arbun/, Bilton Hall, Clijitoji Jlluse, Gur/'s
Clin, Grove Park, and Weston House, nearly all of which
replace more ancient houses. The old l.Otli century Beacon
on the Burton Dassett Hills is probably almost a unique
representative of the ancient system of alarm signals.
Timber-framed houses are jjlentiful throughout the county,
many of them, as in the instances of the LeJ/cester Hospital
at Warwick and Gritnxhaw Hall at Knowle lieiiig of great
picturesqueness. The Baftlejxeld of Edije Hill is memorable
as the spot where the pent up antagonism ot Cavaliers and
Roundheads first found a deadly outlet.
Among the ecclesiastical structures of the County, the
Beauchunip Chapel at AVarwick stands ])re-eminent, both
for its architecture and for the monuments it contains. The
efiigy of Kiciiard Beanchani]), in the judgment of King
James I., exceeding tliat of llt'iiry VII. at Westminster.
The church at Temple BalsaU'iA an exquisite example of the
Earlv Decorated style, while the tower and spire of St.
Micnael'-s at Coventry are conspicuous for their elegance
and beauty.
The following are the most noteworthy of the other
churches. They all, with about three exce])tions, retain
parts of several periods of areiiitecture, but are here some-
what rougidy grouped together under the names of the four
styles in accordance with the architectural characteristics
which appear to predominate in them.
Saxon.
Wootton Wawen, lower part
of tower.
Norman— 106G-1200.
Beaudesert.
Berkswell, chancel and crypt,
north arcade and south
door.
Corley, nave.
Kenilwortii, wt^t door.
Offchnrch.
J'n-ston Hagot (restored).
Stonelfigli, chancel and tower
Tysoe, south wall of nave.
Warmington, nave.
Wixff.rd.
Early English— 1189-1320.
Bidford, chancel.
Brailes, south aisle.
Budbrooke, chancel.
Burton Dassett, north tran-
.sept, nave and aisles.
Long Itchiiigton, south aisle.
Norton Liudsey.
I'illerton llersey.
Tachbrook, nave.
1^'soe, nave.
Whichford, nave.
Wolverton.
Wormleighton, nave and
tower.
XVI.
rXTBODUCTION.
Decorated-1300-1400.
Aatley,
Bilton (restored).
Burton Dassett, chancel.
Clu'sttTton.
Colt'sliill, east part of nave.
Coventry St. John's.
Cubbington.
Dunchurch.
Fenny Compton.
Kenihvortli, nave.
Ladbrnke, nave.
Long Itchiiigton, nave and
chancel.
Leamington Hastings.
Long Compton.
Maxstoke.
Ratley.
Rowington.
Snittertield.
Solihull, chancel.
Southam (restored).
Stoneleigh, windows.
Stratford-on-Avon, Holy
Trinity, nave, arcades.
Temple Balsall.
Warniington, aisles.
Wootton Wawen, south
aisle and chapel.
Wroxall.
Perpendicl'lah— 1380-1547
Brailes. tower.
L'ole.<hill, chancel.
Coughton.
Coventrv .'^t. Michael's.
„ * Holy Trinity.
Henley-in-Arden.
Knowle.
Lajiwnrth.
Solihull, nave and aisles.
Stratford-on-Avon Holy
Trinity, chancel.
Stratford-on-Avon Guild
Chapel.
Tysoe, chancel.
Fonts.
NouMAN.— Coleshill, Corky, Oxhill, Stoneleigh.
Early Exglisih.— Solihull.
Decorated.— Brailes, Coventrj- Holy Trinity,
Wolston.
Tysoe,
13th
14th
loth
16th
17th
19th
MoNL'MENTAL EFFIGIE.S AND BlSTS.
Centl'RY.— Avon Dassett, Coleshill.
,, Cherington, Stoneleigh, Warwick St. Mar3''8.
„ Meriden, Warwick Beauchanip Chapel,
Wootton Wawen.
„ Alcester, Alveston (old church), Astley,
Baddesley Clinton, Chesterton. Coleshill,
Coughton, Coventry- St. ilichael's and
Holy Trinity, Nuneaton, Rowington,
Stratford-on-Avon, Warwick Beauchamp
Chapel, Whichford.
„ Bidford, Charlecote, Chesterton, Compton
Verney, Leamington Hastings, Moreton
Jlorrell, Newbold Pacey, Radway,
Stoneleigh, Stratford-on-Avon, Tysoe,
Wootton Wawen.
„ Alcester, Arrow.
IXTBODITCTION. XVII.
Brasses.
15th Cextuey. — Astley, Baginton, Tysoe, Warwick St.
Nicholas' and St. Mary's, Wellesboume,
Whatcote, Wi.xford.
16th „ Colesliill, Compton Verney, Coughton,
Coventry St. Michaers and Iloh' Trinity,
Exhall(near Alcester), Harbiiry, Ilaseley,
Tysoe, Warwick St. Clary's, Whichford,
Whitnasli, Wixford, Wootton Wawen.
17th „ Chadshuut, Preston Bagot.
Tlie principal Art Collections in the county are to be met
with at Warwick Castle, Rayley Hall, Charle:ute, Guys
Cliff, Weston Park, Stoueleiyh, Wro.vall, Arbury, and Bilton
mu}
1 It eliould bt) uoteil that except in the iustauces where the cob-
ditions under which visitors .ire admitted are expressly stated, that
special iiermission must be nbtaiued beforehand from the ownera of all
other houses before they can be visited.
TABLK OF DERIVATIONS AND EXI'LANATIONS OP
TERMS.
PAGE. ■
PAGE.
Arbour
185
Eenilworth
118
Arden
Xiii, 176
Leamingtou
12
Bancroft
92
Loek Wipottou
19
Bice
1C9
Longbridjje
71
Bowels, Separate burial
of
227
Miserere
140
Brays
108
Mona M
365
Bunker's Hill
306
Burrow Hill
252
Plaisance
lis
Chesford
107
River names
xiii
Collar of SS
256
Rollrich
364
Corley
250
Kollswood
184
Coventry (name of)
155
Rother
102
Coventry (to send to) . .
157
KuRby
273
Crab Mill
195
Sanctus Bell
355
Dun Cow
2T0
Stratford
74
Swathing bands ...
94
Feldon
xiii, 176
Tantara
126
Gospel Oak
20
Guns used at the Battle
Vossionec
283
of Edge Hill
331, 341
Gutli
18
Warwick
37
Watergall
286
Headland
299
Whispering Knights
366
Heart Shrine
227
Wootton Wawen
187
Hip-knob
129
Holy Sepulchre
42
Imp 52
An Btterisk (*) is used as sign of distinctive commendation.
ITINERARY.
LONDON TO LEAMINGTON BY KAII.WAV.
TuEnE are two railway services from London to I^eam-
ington. one bv the London and Nortli-Western Railway
('J74 niil.-s.. tht- oth.-r l.y tin- (in-ut Western (105J miles).
That by the London and North-Western starts from £u4o7i.
On quitting the Terminus, the line passes through a
region "f bricks and mortar, from timt? to time diversified
■with trees and tasteful gardens, and occasionally with
fields, until Sudbuvji is readied, when tlie landscaiie opens
on a pretty well wooded agricultural country. Shortly
before reaching Harroiv the spire of the church, erected in
the 14th century, forms a conspicuous object springing out
of a group of trees on a hill on the left. Next on the right at
IHniier we pass the Commercial Tiavellers' Schools, built of
brick with stone dressings in the Gothic style, and opened in
1H5.5. A pretty little wood on the riglit then succeeds,
followed immediately on the left by Bu^hcj/, picturesquely
situated amongst trees, the massive embattled 1.3tli century
tower of the cliurch, with its octagonal turret, forming a
prominent object. A little further along on the right i.? the
Lomlnn Orphan .\sylum, and then the tine embattled tower
of IT rt^/W/ Church, with a sj)ire 100ft. high, attracts notice
on the'left. We then pass through a cutting lined with
beech trt-es', succeeded by a tunnel nearly a mile long,
again followed by a cutting, and tlicn emerge on a well
wooded undulating country with Gnne I'ttrJc, tlie seat of
the Karl of Clarendon, lying on tlie left. We next pass on
the right the Booksellers' I'rovident Institution, speedily
followed by the village of Kitu/'s Lani/li'i/, i)rettily
situated on a rising ground. The church, which is
in till- rei-]iendicular style with a square embattled tower
and short >pirt', contains tin- tomb of Ivlniund de I^angley,
Karl of Ciimbridgi' an<l Duke of York, tiftli .-on of King
Kdward II F., who was born here in ].'i41, and buried here
in HOJ. The remains of Piers Gaveston, tlie favourite of
Kdward II., who was beheadetl at IJlacklow Hill, near
Warwick, in VM'l, were by order of tin- King transferred to
the Priory Church here in ISl."). The ciiurch has long been
demolished. Proceeding onwanls, the line traverses the
King's Langliv Viaduct, and shortly after passes on the
right (i'jrhambury Park, the seat of the Karl of Verulam
XX. ITUTBRAKY.
a picturesque, well wooded domain, at the foot of which
the Grand Junction Canal winds its way. The line next
runs tlirouffh a lonp cutting, emei^ng from which we pass
B<>.rmi''jr ^^ati'it. and then traverse B'j.r>n'jor. which is
picturesquely situated at the foot of a richly wooded slope
on the left, along which the canal winds. The roadside is
lined with chestnut trees, and dotted with jiretty cottages
nestlin;:: among foliage. Between the roadway and the
rail three clumps of trees, each enclosed in an iron ring
fence, -will be observed, with an interval between each.
On the further side of the last of these clumps two ''plum-
pudding stones " may be seen with a space of about ten
feet between them; these mark the grave of James
Snook, a highwayman, who one night in the
early part of the year 1801, near this spot, stopped
the horse by which the Tring mail bags were then
carried, and compelled the man in charge to surrender
them. He obtained a considerable booty, and for some
time successfully eluded discoverj-, but was at
length taken and tried at Hertford in March, 1802,
when he was condemned to suffer on the scene of
his crime. A gallows was therefore erected on this
spot, on which he was hanged, his boily l^eing after-
wards buried in a hole at the foot.* Pursuing our way, we
traverse on the left some pretty rural scenerj- with an
i^^ed mill, and then arrive at Berhhampstead, containing a
cruciform church of the 13th centurj- with a central
embattled tower. We next pass on the right Aldbury Hill,
crowned with an amphitheatre of trees, in the midst of
wIulIi -taiids a granite column 200ft. high, erected in 1832
ir; li r ur of Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater
(173(i-l"s».;; as a commemoration of the completion
of the Grand Junction Canal. Trim/ Park lies to the
left of the line. After passing Trim/ Station the line
1 The wretohf^i --r.rr.-.r^rA. «rho condacted himself with great fortitude,
offered his wr '--r acquaintance if he would take away hia body.
This he <leclr togmaii after the execution claimed the clothes,
and would h.. -ue body oompl'telv if the Poet Master of the
diatrict. who w 1- . - t; -r High Coneta> ::.-i9led in the intereato
of decency that llie l»wcr limUs should ■ 1. A hole being dug
beneatli the gallows, a truss of straw » . ■ ;:-'i. h;i!f "f "!.!• tj waa
thrown into the grave and the corpse wa» ti.vii j I i.,t?i1 on r ' ilf
was then thrown on the body and the pit filled in ' .er
c«reeiony. Smim- c.u.jt^-v-i'ii.ite inhabitants of the neig): of
BemelHem]-' ■ -r scandalised at the way '.!i "i •i.-
mnains of t! ■ i been treated, subscribed to yir \-
coffin, and oi. - . ;y the body was exhumed, and aft'.-r ix-.i^
daoently i^aced in ihc ot&u, was re-intemd.
mXERABY. XXI.
traverses a deep cutting, and then emei^s on a wide
tract of undulating country. Shortly before reaching
Chtddington, a hUl cut ' into linchets for purposes
of cultivation will be observed on the left. Xeit comes
Ch^ddiiujt'iu with a Perpendicular church, having an
embattle<l western tower, and immediately afterwards
MentiH'jre Toicers, a stately mansion in the Anglo-Italian
style, built by Baron Anthony de Rothschild, and now the
seat of the Earl of Rosebery, becomes visible on an eminence
on the left. From here a panoramic view of immense
extent is enjoyed, which lasts untU we reach Leitihton
Buzzard on the right, which contains a verj- line cruciform
church, principally of the Early English period, with an
elegant Perj>endicular clerestorj- and a central tower with
pinnacles, capped by a massive octagonal spire 19.3ft. high.
Passing onwards, the church of Crreat BrickhilL with a
square tower, picturesquely situated on a wooded hill,
becomes visible on the right. >'ext on the left is the
quaint village church of 0/3 Bradirell. with a gabled tower,
and then the line passes through W'Jierton. We next come
on the right to the picturesque village of Ashton. Ij-ing
amidst apple orchards, and then reacli B'-ad^, wliere the
railway to Rugby bifurcates, one service of trains travelling
i-td Northampton and the other viti Blisworth. By the first
of these courses Northampton, situated on a gentle eminence,
comes fully into view, displaying a lai^e surface of red
brick buihling, in which the old church of St. Sepulchre
stands prominent. Continuing onwards, we come to the
old historic mansion of Holmby or HK-ldenby, standing on
an eminence on the right. It was built by Jolin Thorpe,
and is memorable as the residence in 1647 of Cliarles I.
when he was seized by the Parliamentarian Army. The
greater part of the old house was pulled down about 1670,
and only the north side of the inner court still remains.
This has in recent years been restoreil and added to, so
that it again forms a considerable mansion, which is the
seat of Viscount Clifden. On the left, but not visible from
the rail, is Althorj} Park, the seat of Earl Spencer. The
line then passes Kil^y and ly^ing Buckbtj, after which the
church of IliUmorton, with a square embattled western
tower, is visible close to the rail on the right, and then
just before reaching Bugby, the tower of the church and
the octagonal lantern of the school chapel may be obs^^ri-ed
on the left.
By the second way the first station reached is BUxworth,
whence a line, 38 miles in length, branches off on the left
XXir. ITINEUARY.
to Stratfonl-on-Avoii, traversing a pleasant agricultural
country.' Truvelling onwards, we enter ujton a broad tract
of beautiful country, and then pass on tlie left the great
military' dt-jiot of Weedm, containing formal red brick
barracks. Next comes Crick, soon after whicli we enter
the great Kil-fhi/ Tunnel, 1.',42.'3 yards in K'ligth (one mile
tliree furlongs), and shortly after arrive at JRiu/bj/. From
lu-nce a branch line traverses a prettily wooded untlulating
country, passing tlie stations of Birdnujbunj and Marton,
und then reaches Leainiiujfon.
The service by thi- Great Western Railway starts from
Paddinyt'in.
The first station reachwl is Ti^'fidhourne Park Junction,
shortly aftt-r quitting which the most noticeable object on
the left is St. Michat-Fs Cullttie, followed at an interval of a
little more than a mile by the gamboge-coloured walls of
WormiC'jod ikrubbK Prifn. A few miles intervene, and
then the sjiire of IlanutU Church peeps out picturesquely
from a group of elms on the right, behind which the church
spire of Harnjic-on-thf-IIill is visible in the distance, while
on the left the cheerless-looking buildings of the Cuunty
Lunatic Aoj/htm form a marked feature. Soon after
passing West Drayton, we cross the Colne, on which, on
the left, stands a picturesque wooden mill with its adjoining
weir. Thence tiiere is nothing worthy of note until nearing
Slough, on tlie left the keep and towers of Winds >r Castle
are to be seen boldly defined Jigainst the sky, and remain
in sight until we reach the grey stone bridge over the
Thames at Maidenhead, with its j-icturesque surroundings.
Here, Ciiitdiu, tht^ splendid country seat of William Waldorf
Astor, Esq., is noticeable to the right on a iieight covered
with trees. A mile and a half on the left near tlie riverside
is the church of Braij, witli a square tower, notable for its
transformable vicar, Simon Aleyn. who died in 1588. From
hence, after traversing a long cutting, a beautiful stretch
of rustic scenery reveals itself. A little beyond Ttryford
Station the line crosses the Loddon ; five miles further it
passes over the Kennet, close to its junction with the
Thames, and then enters Reading, where, by the side of the
O'Unti/ Gaol a glimjise may be obtained of the ivy-clad
ruins of its ancient Benedictine Abbey, founded by Henry
I. in 1121, and in which he and his two queens were buried.
I Moreton Pmlcory on this line is tlie nearest station to Sulsmve
(two miles anil n luilf ). Khxrtoii Station is within two miles of Conipton
Veniey, two niilcn of the Battiefield of Edge Uill, ami beven miles of
Compton Wvnyates.
itinehaey. xxiri.
A portion of the Great Hall in which several Parliaments
were held is still standing. On the right on the high
ground above the Thames, the house and grounds of
Caversham are visil^le. Here, in July, 1G47, Cliarles I. was
allowed by Parliament to spend two days with his
children. On leaving Reading, tlie Thames is to be seen
flowing placidly on the right, hidilen at times by inter-
vening bushes ami wood, through which at others it
glistens and sliimmers. We pass on through a prettily-
wooded undulating country until we reach the comely little
town of Pmu/bounie, on the other side of which a picturesque
wooden bridge across the river leads to the village of
Wliitchurch. Next on the left is Basildon Park, in which
stands a handsome mansion containing a fine collection
of works of art. Then at a short interval comes a large,
plainly-built white house called The Grotto, standing
in a charming ami)lntheatre of Avood whicli fringes the
Thames, followed a little later l)y the delightful little
14th century church of Mouhford, cosily nestling among the
trees by the river side. After passing ^loulsford Station,
another pleasant village church — tluit of Chohey, with a
square central tower — comes in sight on the right, followed
by a beautiful rural panorama, diversified with woodlands,
and ijordered by the distant Chiltfrn Hills. Northwnrd
of this, on the right, is Sinodun Hill, an ancient earthwork
crowned by a clump of trees. Thence soon after leaving
Culham, a magnificent ampliitheatre of wood fringes the
Thames on the right for upwards of a mile, having in its
centre the Georgian mansion of Nunehum C'ourfoicy, the
seat of th»; llarcourt family, while on tlie left hand the
brick-built walls of St. Peter's College are visible
in tlie rear of liadlei/ Church. The obelisk at Sandford
Lasher, (a memorial of a sad boating fatality) and the old
Norman church of Iffleij, picturesquely situated amongst;
trees on a rising ground above an old mill next come into
sight, and tlienafti-ra brief interval the towers and .spiresof
O.rford burst ujjon the view. Here in the Church of St.
Mary, the ill-fated A/ni/ Jiohsart was laid to rest on Sunday,
the 'JJnd September, LOGO. On leavingOxford, immediately
on the left is Port Meadmr, a hirgf ojjcn space of 4.'J'.( acres
on whicli tin- citizens of Oxford have rights of commonage,
beyond whicli Oodsfow, connected with the legend of
Rosamond Clifford is to be seen. Three mih's further
on the right tlie old grey tower of the Church of ll'olvercuic
displays itself amongst trees on a slight eminence. Here,
according to tradition, Memphric, King of the Britons, the
XXIV, ITISEHAnY.
reputed foundor of Oxford, was attacked and devoured
by wolves. Soon after jiassing Kidlintfton Station,
the villape churcli, with a tall and ^jraceful Perpendicular
fipire, forms ii noticeable object nearly a mile to the right.
Eleven milt's further is Aynho, two miles from which on the
left is the site of Deddingtmi Caatle, where Piers Gaveston,
the favourite of Kdward II. was seized by the Earl of War-
wick in l.'Jll'; antl a little further on the right, close to the
rail, the beautiful tower and crocketted spire of Kiiiy's
tSutfoti Church are conspicuous. Commercial-looking £an-
bitn/, famous for its cross and cakes, next claims notice,
followed by Cropredy, the fine old village church
of which attracts the eye amongst trees on the right
immediately after passing the station. In the neighbour-
hood is Cropn-dy Bridge, where the rival forces of King
and Parliament engaged in deadly conflict on the 29th June,
1644; then we goon until the historic Burtun Dassett Be&con
close by the windmill on the low hills beyond Ftnmy
C'om/i/im on tlie left, catches the eye, and next come to
the deep Harbury cutting, in which a fine section of the
lower lias stands exposed. Emerging from this, the round
arcaded wiuilmill of Chegtert'iu, built from designs by I nigo
Jones, is visible on a low hill on the left, and soon after-
wards our journey ends at Leaminyton.
LEAMINGTON.
Leamington, from its central position in Warwickshire,
ami from the facilities of access to other places which it
affords both by road and rail, is unquestionably the best point
at which the tourist who desires to explore the county can
establish his head-quarters. The town, moreover, has great
attractions of its own, its streets and squai'es ai'e artistically
planned and attractively laid out, tlie principal pathways
being lined with trees, which impart a charmingly sylvan
aspect to the wiiole place. The climate is mild and unusually
equable, the restorative qualities of the waters are held in
high estimation by leading medical experts, and the
governing body makes great efforts to render the town
agreeable to visitors. The town is divided into two parts —
the Old and the New. The Old occupies the site of the
original vilhige to the south of the river Learn, and the New
is entirely a modern creation on the north side of the river.
On entering the town from tlie Railway Stations, the first
prominent object is the Parisli Churcli of All Sainto,
which stands in a central position at the junction of Victoria
Terrace with Priory Terrace. It is a handsome building,
though defective in some of its proportions. Originally it
was a chapelry of the village of heek Wootton ; of its early
appearance no record exists, but in 1624 the fabric appears
to have been either restored or rebuilt, and up to the year
1816 it presented the appearance of a village church,
consisting of a square embattled tower and a nave and
chancel, with a small gabled porch on the south. In the
year 1816 this church was enlarged, and again in 1825 and
1834. Ill 1843, un<ler the then Vicar, the Rev. John Craig,
an entirely nmv churcli was commenced ; the nave of this
was tinislied in 1844, and was sufficiently lofty to completely
enclose the tower of the old ciiurch. The chancel was built
in 1845; the clock tower and north transept were completed
in 1849, and the south transejjt was opened in October, 1869.
The style of architecture of the nave and aisles is Perpen-
dicular, that of the chancel and transepts Decorated. The
chancel ti-rminates in an ajise, lighted by live lofty windows,
two of wliich are modelled upon those in Cologne Cathedral.
The three central windows are filled witli stiiine<l glass, in
memory respectively of Diana, Frances, and Anna Alaria,
daughters of Charles Manners yutton, Archbishop of Canter-
bury from 1805 to 1828. The transepts have handaome
B
2 SHAKESPKAUKS LAND.
wheel windows, that on the north is a copy of one in the
Catliedrnl at Rouen. The west window of seven lights,
with II dmililc intiT-foliiited tniiisom, is 4l'tt. in lu'i{.rht, and
finely proportioiieil ; it contains stiiimvl ^\n<^s representing
"The Life andl'assion of the Saviour." Tlie Keredos of stone,
erected by the late William Willes, in memory of his father
anil mother, is sculptured with a replica of the fresco of the
*'La.st Supper," by Leonardo da Vinci, at .Milan. Tlie organ
is a tine instrument, erected in 187'J. Tlu- church possesses
an artistic treasun- in its clialice, which is of sihcr gilt,
14in. in lieight, richly eml)08sed willi figures. It bears the
English liall mark of \b'6'2, and originally belonged to the
English cha]>pl at Calais. On the north wall of the chancel
is a mural talilet to Eduard Ti'illes. ('liief liaron of the
Exchequer in Ireland, who died 1768.
In the churchyard, immediately to the south-west of the
cross footpath, is the tombstone of fj'inifun Abbotts, which
bears the following inscription:— "Behold the tomb of
William Al)botts, who die<l the 1st of March, 1H05, agetl B9.
First founder of the celebrated Spa-Water Baths at this
place in 17H6. He devoted his whole time and fortune to
accommodate the public, and liv'd to see his benevolent
works merit the api)roliation of the most eminent
physicians." On the south - west side of the church,
enclosed by iron jyalisades, is the tomb of Abbotts's friend
and coadjutor, Benjamin Satchirell, the village jioet and
shoemaker, who died DecemVier 1st, 1815, ageil 76.
Immediately in front of the west end of the church is the
Old Well, the earliest di.scovered spring in Leamington,
which IS mentioned liy Camden in his " Britannia," ])ublished
in 1586. The s])ring originally Mowed into a ditch, in which
a tub was placed for the convenience of collecting the water.
The chief virtue of the waters was sujiposed to lie the cure
of hydroj)hobia, and during a period often years one hundred
and fifty persons bitten by dogs were dipjied in the spring,
the animals themselves being frequently immersed. In
1803, a small stone building was erected over the spring
by the Lord of the Manor, Heneage, 4th Karl of Aylesford.
This gave pkce in 181,'i to a mon- ornamental stone
structure, which in its turn was altered and improved
in 18'JU. The water of the well is particularly rich in
sulphates.
Proceeding onwards, we come to the Post Office, a
modern liuilding on the right, at the south end of the
Victoria Bridge, a broad stone structure, erected across
SHAKBSPBjLBB S LAND. 3
the Leam in 1S40, to replace a primitive ami inconveaient
fabric which previously existed.
Across the bridge, on the left, are the Eoyal Pnmp
Booma and Baths which cover a Mineral Spring, dis-
covered in tl:e yt-ar 1S08, at a depth of 34ft., and which was
the sixth in the order of di<?covery. The original building,
of whicli the main part still exists, was erected in 1813,
from the designs of Mr. C. S. Smith, a "Warwick architect,
and cost £30,00("). It was renovated in ls3',t, and consider-
ably altered and enlarged in 1861. 1 n 18(57 the property was
sold to tlie Local Board of Health, now represented by the
Corporation, and in 1885 the existing baths were completely
renovated and new ones added. The building, which has a
aymmetrical and tasteful appearance, consists of a central
block with two wings. It has a frontage of l<Hift.. with a
fiag-tower in tlie north-east angle, and is surrounded by
a broad stone colonnade, supported by Roman Doric columns,
affording an agreeable promenade in wet weather. In the
interior is a fine room, which contains the puni]) from which
the Spa Waters are drawn.' On the wall are portraits of
Dr. Jejihson and of Mr. Haddon, a local notal)le. lioth painted
bj' public subscription. There is also a portrait of Dn
Marsh, a well-known divine, and first incumbent of St.
Mary's Church. Tlie Bathiyuj Establishment is unusually
comjilete, comprising two very fine Swimmiiu/ Baths, one
for gentlemen, measuring 110ft. by 40ft., and auotlier for
ladies, measuring 70ft. by 30ft., su])plied with ]iure soft river
water; Iteclininy Baths; Deep Iniinerd'm Baths, with lift
crane and chair for cripples or invalids unable to walk ;
Needli- Baths oi improved construction; Local Baths and
special douches for internal complaints; Ascendinf/ and
Dtscendinr/ Dnuches and Wave Bath ; Vapour and Choicer
Baths. There is also a handsome Turlcish Bath, fitted in the
newest style, with male and female attendant-* experi<.'nced
in the art of massage. The whole establisimient is lighted
with electric light. The Leamington "Waters hav(! always
held a high rejjutation, and the following ojiiuions have
been recently expressed by those best ipialified to judge of
their value. Sir James Sa'wyer, in his valuable work,
"Contributions to IVactical Medicine," .says: -"In the
therapeutics of j.lithisical and tubercular disorders, the
natural salint- mineral water of Leamington Spa may be
1 Every infoniiution with TegArd to local amiisenicnti and llsturet,
ehurohes, cab fares, and postal and railway arraiigcnit'iits will be found
in the Ltnmvujton Spn Courur, which Is piililislicd wp<-kly, and In the
Leamington Upa Pictorial, published at the Courier Office.
4 SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
useful in some cases. This water is peculiar in the large
proportion of chloride of calcium it contains. So far as I
know, this proportion is ^jreater than in any otlier natural
medicinal water." Sir Alfred (larrod, M.D.. F.K.S., in his
speech at the re-opening of the Leamington Baths, in June,
1887, snid, '• that the composition of the waters of the Leam-
ington sjirings closely resembled that of many Continental
waters which have obtained considerable reputation— as
those of Kissengen and Homburg— and tlure was no known
reason why tlie Leamington Sjirings might not prove as
efficacious as any of tliese." And again '• tiiat there exists
a very large class of invalids ca])able of being benetittcd by
the Leamington treatment, an<l amongst them especially
those suffering from the ffouty diathms." Dr. Burney Yeo,
F.R.C.r., on the same occasion observed that "undiiui)tedly
we, in this country, do possess many very valuable sjirings,
and none more valuable than those possessed by Leamington.
He was perfectly satisfied that, as tlie Minrral Water
resources of this country became more widely known, and
the fact became accepted, that the Leamington jieojile were
providing for the treatment of invalids, and jio.ssessed
all those aj)pliances which were of real advantage and
were absolutely indispensable, the town would iiave more
visitors tlian it very well knew wliat to do willi.'' Sir
Andrew Clark, President of tlie Royal College of Physicians,
in a visit in April, ls90, to the Leamington I'uni]) Koom and
Baths, ex]iressed liimself as i)leas(>d with all arrangements,
and added "that a Mineral Water containing so large
a percentage of salt of such high medicinal value as the
sitdiiDii fniljthate, was worthy of more attention than it
had lately received." '
The united action of the.se various salts, as contained
in the Mineral Water, is calculated to aid the individual
action of eacli, while the total saline strength of tlie water
issiich that its effects are gently and harmoniously i)roduced,
and tliat it can lie borne for a long time (in fit cases and in
graduated doses) without causing nausea, excessive pur-
gation, or distaste.
The late spring, early summer and autumn, form the Spa
season, [mmediately adjoining the Pump Rooms are the
I Tho followlnft in nn analyais of the water in use at the Piiiiiii Hoonia,
raailo by Dr. A. Bostock Hill, M.l)., S. Sc. Camb., F.I.C., in July, ISHO.
Yielil of tlie saline ie»i«liio after evaporation in grainit iier pint of water : —
Bo<liu)ii, sr.'iS graiiir ; M.-iKUfdiuui, 2-23 grain* ; Calciiinj, 6-M grains;
Chlorine. S.iiOgrainH ; Siilpbiiric Aciil, 26-^0 grains ; Oxide of Iruo, 0*14
graiiis ; SUica, Ul.i grains ; total, I22'20 graius.
SHAKBSPEABE S LAND. O
gardens, of several acres, tastefully laid out, bounded on
one side by the river Leam, and skirted on the others by
promenades, bordered by handsome lime trees. In the
centre is a Kiosk, in which an orchestra performs at stated
times.
Opi>osite the Pumi) Rooms are the Jephson Gardens, one
of the principal attractions of Leamiii^'ton, on account
of their sylvan beautv. The site, wliich covers about
twenty acres, was munificently leased to trustees for :2,000
years, at the annual rent of a peppercorn, if demanded, by
"the late J/r. Edward 7T7//f'»-, of Newbold Comyn. the principal
stipulation attached to the lease being tliut tlie ground
should never be built upon. The property, whicli in its
primitive state, was a strip of low-lying meadow land, was
taken over by the trustees in May, L*-'4(i, and immediately
laid out witli ornamental walks. Tlie gardens suljsequently
received the name they bear in honour of Dr. Jephson
(1798-1878), whose remarkably successful treatment of
patients, through the medium of the waters, brought
increased fame to the town.
The entrance is flanked on eacli side by an ornamental
lodge of tasteful design, from whence a broad walk,
bordered by handsome shrubs, leads tlirough the centre
of tlie gardens. The river Leam forms the southern
boundan*', sloi)ing down to which in the uj>]ier grounds is a
grove of tali trees, interspersed with winding walks,
leading in the lower part to a ilaze, formed by the river
side, after the fashion of the one at llampton Court.
An ornamental Lake, dotted with water lilies, and
containing an island witli a swannerj-, forms a jjrominent
feature in the lower grounds. Broa<l lawns occupy the
central jiarts, affording ample .space for lawn tennis
and archery. In the centre of the broad walk near
the lake is an Obelisk, erected in 1S75, to commemorate
the generosity of Mr. Willes in conveying the gardens
to the town; and somewhat further on, on the left, is
an eight-columned circular Tenijile, of the Corintliian
order, containing an excellent marble statue of Dr. Jejihunn,
executed by Sir. I'tttr IL>llins, of Birniingliam, and ex-
hil)ited at the Royal Aca<lemy in 1H48. .Near tlie north
lodge facing tlie street, is an ornamental foiiiifaiu, erected
in 1861>, in memory of Mr. Jlitchmnn, a well-known
surgeon and benefactor of tlie town. During tlie season
Illuminated Promenade Concerts are held in tlie gardens
in the evening, and Fashionable Fetes, from time to time,
take place in tliem.
6 shakespsarb's lakp.
Proct'eding onwards, we come to the foot of the Lower
Parade, whicli swt-ep.s up a gently rising ground in a
gnictful curve. It was ]ilnnne<l in 1810, and completed to
its junction with Eegent Street, in 1813. It contains the
princii)iil slioj)S, wliicli fairly vie with those of the best
provincial towns. A little way along on the right is the
Holly Walk, containing the remains of a stately grove
of trees, still t<'nanted by rooks. Next in succession is the
New Town Hall, an imjiosing looking building, in the Italian
Kenaissanct' style, with a lofty campanile, erected in 1884,
and containing a hall for entertainments, together with
tlu- MMnici])!il Offices and the Free Library.
On tlif opposite side is the local branch of thi' London and
Midland Bank, occupying the site of the Bedford Hotel, a
large establishment built in 1816, and closed in 1867, which
in its time was the rendezvous of the most celebrated
sporting charncters of the day. Here it was that the
notorious Jack Mytton ' made and won his historical
wager, that he would ride his mare into the dining
room, jumj) over the dining table and the heads of his
ai»sociates sitting there, and then jump out of the balcony
into thi- strt'et below. Above, on the other side, is the
Eegent Hotel, which cost £25,(XH), and was opened in
181'.). It contains upwards of W) bedrooms, and owes
its name to George IV.. then Prince Regent, who, at the
time of the opening, was staying at Warwick Castle,
and drove over to see it, afterwards commanding that it
should bear his title in honour of his visit. Since that time
the hotel has numbered many notabilities among its quests.
First among them is the Qaeen, who, as Princess Victnna,
came in August, 1830, with her mother, the Duchess of
Kent, attended by Lady Catherine Jeukinson. Baroness
de Lehzen, and Sir John Conroy. Queen Adelaidi stayed
here in November. 183'.l, Ib-ince Geonje "f Cani/indf/e, in
1847, and the house has also welcomed "the l-lnipemr of
Husst'a, the (iuem <>f Sa.vimy, the Grand Duke Constantine,
Ibrahim Pasha, Xapoleon ill., when Prince, Charles Kean,
ami Macreadif. At the left-hand side of the Parade, extend-
ing down Regent Street, were the old Assembly Booms,
erectefl in 1^13, at a cost of £10,000, and converted into
business i)remise8 in 1878. llere the fashionable dandies
and belles of a past generation mustered for dancing, under
the punctilious regulation of a Master of the Ceremonies.
In the house now occupie<l by Lloyds Bank, at the opposite
t Bom 17(t(>. ilioU 1834. Thu iltMcondaut of an auciuut (uuily, with a
fine estate at Haiston, in Shropaliire, which he ■qoaudered.
SHAKESPEAHE S LAN'D. 7
comer of Regent Street, the Duke and Ihtchess of Gloucester
resided in 1822, when undergoing a course of tlie Spa
Waters. Higher up on the right, ut No. 'J, Upper Parade,
tlie ]'?-i7iceM Auf/usta stayed for a .similar purpose iu
the same year. Still liigher uj), Warwick Street crosses tlie
Parade. Vollowing this street to tin- left we come, at the
corner of i'ortland Street, to St. Alban's Chapel, built iu
1881, and further along, at the corner of Dale Street, to
Beech Lawn, a large mansion, built in 1.'nJ2 as the residence
of Dr. Jephson, the remarkable physician, who did so much
by his talent and public spirited action to promote the
prosperity of the town.
Returning to the Parade, at the top on the right is the
Clarendon, a fashionable hotel for families, and ne.xt to it is
the Leamington Club, a social resort of tli<' pi-of»->sional
classes. At the end, facing southwards, is Christ Church,
built in 1825 in what can only be termed a pastry-cook
imitation of the Norman style, and which it is to be hoped,
from the commanding character of the site, will eventually
give place to a building more worthy of it. To the right,
in Leicester Street, is St. Paul's Church, u well i)roportioned
building of brick, with stone dri'ssings, liuilt iu 1874 in the
Early English style. To the left is Clarendon Square, with
a large ornamental garden in the centre. At No. 6 in this
square Prince Louis Napoleon, afterwards Emperor of the
French, lived for ten months in 18-17. It was visited in
December, 1860, by the Empress Ewjenie. To the north-
east of this, in IJeauchamp Avenue, is Holy Trinity Church,
built in 1H47 in the Early English style.
Still further northward, in Binswood Avenue, is the
Leamington College, a fine building in the Tudor style,
opened in 1848. The great Hall measures 90ft. by 30ft.,
and is lighted on the south side by tive lofty windows of
three lights ; opening out of it on the north side is a tasteful
chapel in the same style. A Sanatorium, Gymnasium, and a
Laboratory form part of the 1)uildings, and a Cricki't Field
of seven acres is attached to the College. Many of its
students have won high distinctions at tlic Universities
and the comjtetitivee.vaminations. The ilistrictof Uiuswood
was, up to the commencement of this century, covered by
u wood of considerable extent, from which it derives its
name. To the westward, in the Kugby Road, is St. Mark's
Chorch, a tine building in the Decorated style, desigueii by
the late vSir (i. C. Scott, and oiK-ned in 1879.
Returning to the Parade, tlie visitor should proceed up
the Holly Walk, which formerly formed tlie aijjiroach to
8 suakespkaue's land.
tilt' liousc of till- Lord of tlie Manor at Xo\vl)oUl Comyn, ami
wliicli still contains a number of fine olil trues with a
yount,'er growth, destined eventually to replace their giant
predecessors. It derives its name from the holly trees
planted in the upper part when the property was
appropriated to the public use in 1841. On the left
hand side is the Theatre, a well constructed building
erected in 1SS2, and capable of seating 1,'JOO itef)ple,
and the Borough Club. Opposite is a Russian Oun,
captured during the Crimean War by Major- (rtntral
nyndham, a former resident in the neighbourhood, and
presented to the town in 1S57 by Lord I'aninure. Higher
up on the right is the Holly Walk Chapel, a l)uilding erected
in 1840 in the Tudor style, and belonging to the
Congregationalists. Still further on the left hand side is the
entrance to Lansdowne Circus, at Xo. 10 of which Xnthaniel
Hduthorne^ (1H)4-1)4) resided in Sejitember and October,
1851), when collecting materials for "Our Old Home."
At the upper end of the walk is Newbold Comyn, the seat
for many generations of the JVilles family. Adjoining it a
footjiath leads through plea-sant fields to the old village of
Offchurch. On the left is an old half-timbered house,
which in the last century was occujded by a farmer and
mill-owner named Campion, whose name lias been trans-
mitted to the bills, to which a footpath a little further
along leads, and which are known as the Campion or
Newbold Hills. On the summit is a picturesque grove of
trees, termed the Lover's NValk, from whence there is a ftno
panoramic view of the surrounding country, Leamington
ajijiearing to lie in a compact mass imnuMliately at the foot
of the sjiecf ator. From hence footpaths lead to the villages
of Lillington and Cubbington. Steeplechases are held
annually on the ground at the back or Newbohl Beeches,
the mansion on the summit of the hill.s. In the Holly
Walk, Charlca Dichent, in the 27th chapter of " Dombey
and Son," lays the scene of the first encounter between
Mr. Carker and Edith Granger.
Again returning to the Parade, and turning to the right
along Dormer I'lace by the side of the i'ump Room
Oardens, we arrive at the Roman Catholic Church of St.
Peter, a lofty cruciform structure with a tall campanile,
built from ilesigns i)y Mr. Clutton in the Romanesque style
with Gothic tendencies. It was originallj' erected in 1^>3
J III November, 1859, ho again visitol the town, oiul took up his
nwi<Ieiice at 21, Butli Sti-uot, where ho rutuiuneU until April, ISOO.
SHAKESPEAHES LAND. 9
to supersede a chapel in Georj^e Street, whicli had jiroved
too small for tlie con^'n'f,Mtion. In 1883 this Imijiliiifr was
unfortunately burnt down, but was immediately alferwards
rebuilt. The high altar is wrouf,dit in alabaster and
Bath stone, interspersed with marbk- pillars. The front of
the altar contains three groups of carved figures; in the
centre is the Last Sui)i)er, and on one side is the sacrifice
of Isaac, and on the other the .sacrifice of I)read and wine
by Melchisedec. The Tabernacle is of alabaster; the doors,
formed of highly gilt metal are of exquisite workmanship,
consisting of an elaborately wrought ground of repouss(5
engraved and enamelled work, set Avith carbuncles and
amethysts. The Reredos supports the statues of the seven
angels of the apocalypse, and the Sanctuary windows are
filled with stained glass of good quality.
To tlie right, in Bedford Street, is Tke Tennis Court Club,
built in 184f), containing Tennis and Kaciim-t Courts. At
the back, in Augusta Place, is St. Luke's Church, opened
in 1850. Further on, in Portland Placr, at the corner of
Dale Street, is the Wesleyan Chapel, comjileted in 1870.
Hence, turning southwards along the Adelaide Road, we
come to the Adelaide Bridge, sjjanning the Leam,
originally built in 185U, and removed, in 1891, to make
way for the ])resent iron structure. At the southern end
is the entrance to the New Elver Walk, formed in 1862,
a charming promenade, most tastefully laid out, and
extending for three-quarters of a mile by the riverside.
At the end of it is an open-air Swimming Bath, 120ft.
by 40ft.
Following the Adelaide Road to the Avenue Road, we
come to the Manor House Hotel, occu])ying the site of the
old Manor Housf, which was built in 1740. A fine avenue
of old elms, a few of which still remain, led from the
house to the Warwick Road, across the sjiace now covered
by the two railways. In l-'<47, tlie house became an Hotel,
it was afterwards transformed into a .school, and then
again converted into an Hotel, after being rebuilt. Furtiier
along, in Sjx'ucer Street, is the Congregational Chapel, with
an Ionic porticii, built in 18.38, and enlarged in 18'J1.
Turning from Spencer Street into Bath Street, we come
to tlu- Bath Hotel, Iniilt by William .Abbotts in 1786, to
accommoflate t lie visitors who then began to Hock to the
recently discovered waters. It was at that time styled the
Kew Inn, and was a noted liouse in the old coacliing
days. At the side of tlie Bath Hotel is Bath i^ane, where,
on the 4th of January, 178-1, William Abbotts, with liis
10 shakespearr's land.
crony, Ik'njnmin Satchwcll, discovcrod in a ditch, on
the land of tlit« former, a coi)iou8 niineral spring, the
tir8t of its kind in the locality suitable for huthing
purjioses. Upon the advice of Dr. Kerr, a Northampton
physician, to whom a sample was sent, Ahhotts erecteil
baths, which were soon resorted to by invalids, and formed
the foundation of the prosjjerity of Leaminj^ton. These
baths, after being lon<,' in favour, were demolished in 18()7,
to make way for an addition to the business i)remise8 in
front of them. Ojjposite to the Bath Ilottd was the old
Theatre, where, from 1814 to 184S, most of the leading
London favourites made their appearance. Further on, on
the right, in Bath Street, are the Royal Aasembly Rooms,
originally termed the Parthenon, and, subsequently, the
Music liall. The building was erected, in 1821, by
JR. If. EUiittm, the celebrated comedian, and manager of
Drury Lane Theatre, who took a fancy to the town when
passing through it. lie, however, failed to make the place
a success, and gave it up after a few years.
Progressing onwards, we come to Clemens Street, at the
left hand corner of which stoofl the Royal Hotel, an
imposing looking building containing a hundred be<lrooms,
built by Mr. Copps, of Cheltenham, in the year 181t>, and
subsequently enlarged. It was for many years the resort of
the rank and fashion of the kingdom, and is commemorated
by Dickens in "Dombey and Son," and by Thackeray in the
"Fatal Boots." Dickens himself stayed in it in 18,S8. The
house was demolished in 1847, to make way for the railway
to Kugby.
Procediiig to the left along High Street, we come to the
Old Town Hall, built in 1831, and now >ised as the Police
Station. Further on, we reach the Wameford Hospital,
which owes its name to the Rev. Dr. JVanuford. rector of
Bourton-on-the-Hill, (iloucestershire, who.se muniticence
contributed greatly to its foundation. The buihling,
which is on a large scale, was commenced in 1S3l', imd has
since been greatly enlarged at various times, a new wing
being erected in i8'.ll-2. It at present makes up K.KJ beds.
Returning to Clemens Street, the right hand corner is
noteworthy as being the .site of the Black Dog, owned by
Abbotts, which, at the time of the discovery of the saline
spring in 1784, was the leading inn of the village, and
which he relinc|uished when he removed to the newly
built New Inn, or Bath Hotel, in 1786. To the right, in
High Strei-t, were Lees or Hudson's Baths, enclosing a
sulphureous spring, discovered, at a depth of 60ft., in 1806.
SUAEESPBABS'S LAND. 11
Further along is the Crown Hotel, built in 1814, which has
always been a noted commercial liouse. Opposite to
the Crown were Wise's or Curtis's Baths, covering a spring,
discovered in 1790, at a depth of 42ft. TI)ese baths were
demolished, in 1850, to make way for the railway, and the
fountains under the Railway Bridge are now supplied from
the springs.
Coming back to Clemens Street, and proceeding onwards,
we pass on the right the Free Congregational Cliurch, which
from 1849 to 18(J5 was fitted up and used as a fashionable
theatre. Across the Canal Bridge, on the left, are the
Ranelagh or Cullis's Gardens, now a uursary ground, but
which, in the early part of the century, were laid out as
ornamental grounds, where musical and otlier entertain-
ments were given, which were resorted to by all the
fashionable people who frequented tlie town. To the west
of this, in Tachbrook Street, is St. John's Church, l)uilt in
1880-1884, in the Early Englisii style. Tlie Cemeteiy, which
was opened in 1852, stands on the road to Whitnash.
Standing in its grounds, and aj)]iroaclied by an avenue
from the Tachbrook Road, is Shrubland Hall, the seat of the
Rev. W. G. Wise. The avenue in former days extended to
Spencer Street, nearly opposite to the entrance to the
Manor House Hotel. The house was built in 1822, and has
no architectural pretensions. It contains some good
pictures, amongst which are a large painting of " Dead
Game witli a Dog," by Snydert; " Tlie Virgin," said to l)e by
Guido Rem; "A River Scene witli Rocks," by L' 'iit/ierboujy;
"A Battle Scene," by Hwjf.enbnr;/ ; "A Waterfall," by
Aaron I'oilet/ ; and "Balfour, of Burleigh," and "Julian
Avenel in the Monasterj'," by Catternvle.
Further along the Tachbrook Roa<l is tlie Home for
Chronic and Incurable Diseases, standing in some prutty
grounds, wliieli were originally laid out as an Arboretum,
connected with a Ilydropatliic establishment, formerly
conducted by Mr. Hitchman, a well-known surgeon.
Returning to the town, and turning by the side of the
Parish Churcli, we come to a building on the rigiit, erected
in 1848 as a grammar school, but now converteil into a
printing office. Further along, on tin- rigiit is a building
Known as Lady Huntingdon's or Mill Street Chapel, erected in
1829 for tlir Hiiglisii Calviiiistic Mrthmlists, wiiose patron
was Selina, Countess of Huntingdon (1 707-1791 ; it is now
used as a Lecture Hall. Opjiosite to it, on the left, is Tho
12 shakespbabe's land.
Mill. Here boats may be obtained for excursions on tlie river.
At the end of lioam Terrace is the Willes Road, which
crosses the Lcain by a brid^'c licarin^' a taldit to record the
munificence of Mr. Kdwanl Willes in iiis gifts to the town.
Opening out of the Willes Road, to the right of Leani
Terrace, is St. Mary's Road, in which stands St. Mary's
Church, built in isyj.
IIiSTOHic Notes on Leamington.
Prior to the end of the 18th century, when it was
still a little village confined to the south of the river,
Leamington has few historical records. The name of the
river Leam, the leamh or elm-tree river, shows that in
early times a tribe of Gaels lived on its banks. According
to Domesday Book the manor was, after the Conquest, held
of the King by Roger de Montgomery, Karl of Arundel and
Slirew.<bury, one (If his chief Counsellons. In the reign of
Henry I. it'passed to the Bishop of Chester, and afterwards
became the property of Geoffrey de Clinton, who gave it to
the Canons of the Priory of Kenilworth, by which it
acquired the title of Leamington Priors to distinguish it
from the neighl)ouring village of Leamington llastang or
Hastings. At the Dissolution it came to the Crown, and
was, in 156-'}, granted to jVmbrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick.
It subsequently passed through various hands until, in the
la6t century, it eume into the possession of the Earls of
Aylesford. " A Mr. John Prew, of Radford, who died in
1747, purchased a considerable amount of land in the
manor. This gentleman had two daughters, one of whom
died single, and the other married Mr. John Wise, second
son of Mr. ilmry Wise, of the Priory at Warwick, who
inherited his father-in-law's jiroperty. On the other side
of the river, tin- manor of Xewbold Comyn was held by the
Willes family, who acquired it by purchase in 153'.), and
the manor of Mil vert on, acquired in a similar manner in
1761, Avas held by the Greatheed family, of Guy's Cliff,
now represented by Lord Algernon Percy. The existence
of a mineral spring in the locality was mentioned by
Camden in l.'iSfi, but it was not until 17^^ when .Vbbotts
made his memorable discovery of a second spring that the
waters acc^uircd any notoriety. In 1700, a tliird spring
was discovered in High Street, a fourth, in 18U4, by the
8i<le of the Leam, opposite the Pump Rooms, a fifth, in
1806, near the Crown Hotel, a sixth, in 1808, on the land
now covered by the Pumj) Rooms, and a seventh, in L'^IO,
in Clemens Street. Four other springs of minor importance
skakespeahe's land. 13
were also discovered. Of tliese sitrings the only ones now
in use are that mentioned by Camden, that discovered in
1790 -which sui)plies the fountains underneath the railway
bridp', that discovered in 1>'U4. the water of which i.s now
conveyed across to the Pump Kooms and the Pump Room
spring itself.
In the year 18()0, the village consisted of about SO houses
■^-ith a population of 315, but, after that date, began rajjidly
to increase. In 1838, the Queen, in response to a petition
from the inluil)itants, acceded to their rotpiest to call the
Spa, thf Uoyal i.^amington Spa, in memory of her visit,
and, in 1875, the town received a charter of incor])oration-
ROUTE 2. -LEAMINGTON TO GUVS CLIFF, AND
THENCE TO KENILWORTII OR DLAKEDOWN.
Quj'b Cliff, the beautifully situated re,<i(li>nce of 2>)rrf
Algernon Perci/\ies about a mile and a half fn>m Loaiuinjjton,
by a pleasant footpath acrosss the field?, stiirtinj; from the
end 01 the Guy's Cliff Road. Another mod*- of approach is by
a footpath, about a mile in length, commencing in a lane
at the back of the Tortobello Tavern, at Emscote, to which
the tramway leads. The route by road lies through
Warwick, from whence it is distant a mile and a quarter.
The ancient name of the })lace up to the reign of Henry
IV. was Gibbech/re, and its later name seems to have been
a 15th century act of homage to the redoubted Guy of
Warwick,' the account of whose mythical e.-^ploits had by
that time elevated him to the front rank among heroes of
antiquity. In the sixth century, St. Dubritiue ^ is said to
have built an oratory here, to which long afterwards, in
Saxon times, a devout hermit repaired. In this state the
place remained until the reign of Henry V., when that
monarch, being on a visit to Warwick Castle, came to see
it, and determined to found a chantry ior two priests on
the spot. Death, liowever, prevented him from executing
his plan, and it was subsequently carried out by Richard
Beauchump, Karl of Warwick, who, by his will, ordered
that the original chapel, ami the residence for the privets,
should be rebuilt. John Rous, the Warwickshire antiquary,
was subsequently a chantry priest here. At the dissolution
the property was granted "to Sir .Vndrew Flammock, Kt.,
whose daughter and heir, Katherine, married John
Colburne, who further olitained from (^ueen Elizabeth a
grant of the chajjel in 1579. Of him the estate wag
purchased by Mr. William Hudson, of Warwick, whose
daughter and heir, Ursula, l>rought it in marriage to Sir
1 The romance of Guy. E.irl of ■\V,-vnvick, i« of Norman French origin
dating in it« earliest form from the thirtoenth century. The u.iroea of
Guy anil Pbillis are both Norman, ami the iuoiiiciit* of the story are
compatible only with the perifKl of chivalry inaugunit«<l by the CniMules,
ami therefore utterly incomiiatible with an Anglo-Saxon origin. Neither
Guy, nor any of the achieTements attributed to liini, are mentioned in
aiiT authentic chronicle.
- Afterwardu Uishop of Landaff and Archbiiihop of Wal(», died c. 523.
shakespeabe's land. 15
Thomas Beaufoy. of Emscote. From tliis family, it was
acquired, hi 17U1, by Mr. William Eihvard^, a .sui-ffeon of
Kenihvorth, who, in ITiil, sold it to .Mr. Samuel Greatheed,
the owuer of cousideraV)le property in the AVest Indies, and
who subsequently represented Coventry in two Parliaments.
At that time the'houso was a small country mansion, the
main front of which faced the tir tree avenue, which then
formed the ai>proach to it. Mr. Greatheed built the
present front facing the courtyard, and made other
considerable alterations. He was succeeded by his son,
Bertie Bertie Greatheed, who almost entirely rebuilt the
house, from his own plans, in the year 1822. Mr. Bertie
Greatheed's son and heir died in 180.1, at the early ape of
22, leaving a daughter, to whom the ))roperty descended,
and who married the Hon. Charles Bertie Percy. Miss
Bertie Percy, the only child of this marriage, died in the
spring of 1891, and the property then passed to Lord
Algernon Percy.
The house is romantically situated on a cliflf overhanging
the river, with a background of rich foliage. The river in
the foreground expands into a large pool, fringed l)y tall
and graceful trees, the combined effects of which make up
a scene of striking and singular beauty. The api)roacli is
by an avenue commencing at a lodge on the AVarwick Koad.
From this road there is a picturesque view of the west front
of the house, looking up an avenue of majestic old Scotch
firs, which were planted at the commencement of the
eighteenth century, and are now, unhappily, decaying.
The hou-se does not possess any notfsworthy architectural
features, but contains a good collection of pictures, with
other artistic treasures.'
Entrasce Hali,.— Ilustb of Mr. Sanniel Greatheed (1710-1705) unci his
first wife, Mi»H Bertie.
Small Duawimj Room.— Pictures : " Portrait of Milton " ; " Hoi-se and
Groom," Philij't Wouinrrnan ; "Robert Earl of Limlsey," C. Janssens ; "Bertie
Bertie (ireatheeil," Jiukion: "Montague, Earl of Lindsey," Shiphcrd
(c<j])ie<I f roui Van Uyck); "The Bird Catcher," Tounilictt , "Sea Piece,"
BlUn : "\ I'ot Houhe," Jirouwer; "The Dincovery." //. can <Ur Mijn ;
"Moonlight," Kouirtitlicciii; " I>ord C. Bertie Percy," llai/ttr : "St.
Hubert" (containing |i<irtrait«of Van Kyck, liinmelf iw bt. Hubert and two
of hiu brotliers) Jan Vaa Eyck : " Valuiontoue, near Rome," Edir. Liar ;
" A Dutch Concert," Jan iitten ; " The Bravo Lord Willoughby," unkiioirn;
" Cupids," Luca Giordano.
LiBKAUY. -Pictures : "Richard Mead " (1073-1754), physician U.) George
II. (said to bo the only original ]s>rtrait extant), V'irel*t: "Mrs. Kemble,"
widow of J. P. Kemble; " Head of St. Peter," J/. .1. C'aruttiyj/io ; " Kev.
J. H. Williams, of Wollesbouruo," Artawl : "Pouting Child," Jiit/notdi :
" Copy of the Madonna di Sau Sisto iu the Dresden Gallery," Artaud ;
* The house is only shown to Tisitors during the absence of the family.
16 shakespbaee's land.
"Grand I'anal anil Cliuroli of Santa Maria della Salute.Venice,".-!. CannUtto :
" Edwanl WilUn, Kei|.," Artaud : "The Annunciation " (puiut«d on
copper), ^'icoltu ^f:gtlarfl ; 'Moonlight on tbo Watvr" ; "Head,"
A. van Ostmlf : " V\\\\'*t<\>h<!n%U\Ay'\n^," School of Ri lubt-andt ; "Flowers,"
Vtrelit : "Christ and tho Woman of Samaria," Ricci; " Flowera,"
/. B. Monniiyir : "Jouali Cast on Land." Sahator Rota: "Ji>8eph and
Potiphar's Wife" d-opieil fmui Cignani), Monga ; "Three Horses' Heads,"
Paul : "Bertie Bertit Greathced when a boy (full length), IT. Chamberlain ;
" Sir William Herschel," j<r<au</.
The combinntion of lawn, wood, nnd water visible
from this room, .tml from the small Drawinfj Room, is
exquisitf. WhiU> the ])icture3 which eilorn the rooms
are in themsclvcg highly interesting, the views from
the windows constitute a whole gallery of beautiful
landscapes.
Drawing Roov.- -Pictures: " Cnpids Playing Musical Instruments";
"Ship in a Storm"; "Mrs. Siddons" (in tho Grecian Daughter),
Hamilton; "The Anjrels Appearing to the Shei)herds," G. ila Ponte:
" Landscape." ZuccarM, : " L.idy C. 13. Percy and Child," Cregan : "Chipid
Blowing Bubbles" Cnftigliom : "liead Game." Biltiut: "Duchess of
Ancaster" ; " Kiii>iarkation of Charles II. from Holland." vl. ran ile VtUU:
"Dead Game." BUtius : " Nymph and Satyr," Bnrhkrt (II Guercino) ;
" View of Ponlrecht " (Dort), J. van Ooyen: '• View on the River Maaa,
with Rottenlam in the Distance," A. Cuyp : " Cnpids Dancing." Alfiano.
From this room there is a wonderfully impressive view
embracing the Old Mill, with its slowly revolving wheel,
in front of which the water shimmers in the sun as it
issues from the mill to form the beautiful ])ool in front of
it. The boughs of an old elm tree on the terrace frame in
the upper part of the jiicture, while the bright colouring
of the fhiwer beds immediately beneath relieves the sombre
tints of the firs close at hand.
Vestibi LE. — Pirtures : "Moonlight." Sir G. Beaumoni : "Venus and
Adonis," C. yettci.er : "Charles. Sixth Duke of Somerset, in his Robes,"
Knelltr : " Duke of Aiica^ter," Matna Chamberlin : " Forest Scene,"
Salrator Jlnta : " Laudpcipe " Jaco'j Jiiiynlacl: "Duchess of Anct>8t«r,"
Kruller : " Copy of ,i Puitriit in the Dresden Gallery." BtriU Graifhted.
Dining RroM — " Hon. Charles Bertie." Lily : " A Heron ana a Falcon,"
Snydtrs : " Wife of the Hon. Charles Bertie," J^iy; " Tho Cave of Despair,"
Bertie Greatlueil. This huge picture is soreene<l from onlinary view by
doors speciiilly constructed in front of it. which revolve on ciHtors. It
represents tho C.i^o of Despair d-jscribed by Sj^nser in B<Hik I. Canto IX.
of the Faerie Qneeiie. In the centre of a d.irk cave sits the weird ghastly
figure of Despair, nearly nude, with clasped hands, matted hair, and deep
sunk eyes, .stjiring nbotnictedly. On the left is a stabbed corp-e, with
upturned eitlm 1.- and an agonised expression of f.-ice, while the left hand
convulsively cl'i'-'lies a stoiio On tho right hand side is the red-cross
knight, who tit.-\nds ty])ical of resolution under awe-stiiking circumstances,
and behind him is the terror-stiicken face of another 8peetat«u'. " Fmit
and Flowers." J/ar40 '/ii f run'. "Mrs. Ayscough," ^faria Vfreltt : "Dead
Game," A Rnncy. There is a remarkably handsome Imliaii Cabinet in
this room, minutoly and beantifolly carved with figures of animals
and birds.
shakespeabe's land. 17
After studying the horrors of the Cave of Despair, the
visitor should turn round and enjoy the beautiful natural
picture which greets the eye when looking towards the
Old Mill, across the briglitfy variegated flower parterre,
succeeded by a picturesque glimpse of sparkling water,
fringed by feathered foliage.
Small Disini; Room.— Pictures by Bertie Greatheed ( 1T82-1S04), son of
the secoud owner of the propoity, and a young artist of great promise and
ability, wlio died of fever, at Vicenza at the early age of 2"2 : "The Duke
of Anca*ter," " Bertie Bertie Greathee«I, Esq. (17oy-182G)," "King Lear
and his Daughter." " XajK>leon Bonaparte in 18<.i3," said to be an
excellent likeness, and to hare been taken from a sketch made on the
thuiub nail at an audience"; "Shylock," "Copy of the St. Jerome of
A. Correg;,'io," " Miister Gray," " Lady Macbeth and her Husband,"
" Atahualljia, the Peruvian, discovering Pizarro's Ignorance of the Art of
Reading and Writing;" "Diogenes with the L?ntern," copied from
Sp.agnoletto'a picture in the Dresden Gallery ; " Richard Greatheed."
In this rtxim are three very hamlsoun- paunelled Oak Cabinets of the era
of Henry VI., taken from Wressel tastie, the seat of the Earls of
North uni berland.
In the autumn of 1772, and early ])art of 1773,
Sarah Kemhle (1755-1831), afterwards the celebrated
yirs. Sidd'.us, then a girl of 17, was here in the capacity
of a companion. Her father, Roger Kemble, with
his theatrical troupe, was performing at Warwick,
when Lady Mary Greatheed, then a widow, took a
fancy to Miss Kemble, and the father, with a view
to break off the attachment which was then beginning to
manifest itself between bis daughter and Mr. Siddons, who
was a member of his comjiany, accepted the offer made to
him to receive her at Guy's Cliff for a time. In November,
1773. the marriage with Mr. Siddons, however, took place
at Coventry. In after life, Mrs. Siddons was, on several
occasions, a welcome guest at Guy's Cliff.
In the Court Yard are a number of excavations in the
rock, which formerly served the purjjose of stables and
other offices.
Adjoining the mansion on the east i.s The Chapel,
dedicated to St. Marj* Magdalen, erected in the reign of
Henry VI. It was repaired in the middh' of tlie last
century, and again restored in 1874, to tit it for devotional
puriMtsus. It contains a mutilatecl statue of Guy, Earl of
Warsvick, eight fe<'t liigii, carve<l out of the rock, and
which, judgefl by the armour and other indications, seems
to liave lieeii executed in the early part or middle of the
14th century. It is, therefore, at* least a century older
than the building which encloses it. A l)a.scinet protects
the head, the body armour consists of a hauberk of mail,
18 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
over which is n short sleeveless surcont, belted rournl the
waist. The ri<flit urni is gone, while the left is covered by
a heater slKijx'd shield, suspended bj' a straj) round the
neck. Marks of s])urs may be traced on the heels. Beneath
the chajiel and coeval with it are the cells of the priests,
now used as biith rooms. Adjoining, on the ea.st, is an
excavation in the rock, known as Guy's Cave, the entrance
to ■wiiich is tliroufjh a jiair of oak doors. About 10 feet
from the ^fround, on the south wall of the cave, nearly
opposite the ojieninfj by which it is lighted, Mr. Daniel
Lysons, in the early i)art of the centurj', discovered an
inscription, wliich was <leciphered by Mr. Ralph Carr
Ellison in 187(1. It is rudely carved in the rock in Saxon
runic ciiaracters of the 10th century, with a later gloss in
Roman characters, ])robably of the earlier part of tlie I2th
century, and is in the Mercian dialect to the following^
effect:— "Yd Crist-tu icniecti this i-wilitth, Guhthi," which
is thus translated— "Cast out, thou Christ, from thy
eervaut this burthen. Guhthi." Guhthi apjiears to have
been the hermit that lived here.'
On tlie north side of the Avenue, near the river, are two
springs, arched over by order of Richard Beauchamp,
Earl of AVarwick. They are protected by an iron gate, and
are traditionally terme<l Guy's Well, tliough Dug<lale merely
styles them " tlie Springs."'
The rock on which the house stands is full of excavations,
both natural and artificial, and the grounds are replete
with attractions, partly natural, and partly the result of
tasteful arrangement. The shapely trees which line the
river give it the appearance of a beautiful water avenue.
A disused stone quarry contains a roughly hewji figure,
with a grotes(|ue inscription, by Mr. Bertie Greatliei'd, to
the memory of Dick Ward, a quarry-man who was killed
there in lH'2\.
Facing the house, on the other side of the river, is The
Mill, a well-constructed building of stone, with a decorative
wooden balcony, erected in 1821. It is charmingly
situated amongst trees wliicli overhang the water, and
occupies tlie site of a mill which was in existence in Saxon
times. The view of tlie iiouse from this point is strikingly
picturesque.
1 Gnlh ill A.S. luuiius irar or baltlt, it in, therefore, probable that thi»
Bokiiowu hermit was some old warrior who desired U> retire from the
world, and this iluiider foundation roaj have atiggenteU the rumaiioe
of Guy.
shakesfeabk's land. 19
Oa a gentle eminence, nearly half a mile to the north-
eaat, is the little church of Milverton, rebuilt in 188U, in
the Decorated style, on the site of the old church.
Ilulf a mile further, on the left of the road to Kenilworth,
is Blacklow Hill, a wooded knoll covered with handsome
trees, in the midst of which stands a stone monument,
•urmouuted by a cross, erected, in the year 1821, to
commemorate the execution of Piers Gave!i<>n--i\\e hated
favourite of Edward II. — on this spot, on the morning after
the hasty sentence pronounced upon him by the barons
assembled at Warwick Castle. The monument bears on its
base the following inscription, composed by Dr. I'arr : —
■"In the hollow of this rock was beheaded, on the first
day of July, 1312,' by barons lawless as himself. Piers
Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, the minion of a hateful king,
in life and death a memorable instance of misrule."
The main road from hence, leading to Kenilworth (two
miles;, is of an attractive character. One mile further on
is the village of Leek-' Wootton, containing a churcli, rebuilt
in 17'J2, and since renovated and improved.
Proceeding westwards from the village, by Anchor Lane
and the >'ew Koad to Kounsel Lane, and then turning to the
right, we arrive at the Kennels of the North Warwickshire
Hounds, built in 1879, and about one mile west of them, at
a little distance south of*the lano, is Good Rest Lodge. Tlie
moated Manor House which originally stood here was
included in the area of Wedgnock Park, and was built in
the reigns of Edward III. and Uichard II., by the second
Thomas de Beauchamp. Dugdale supposes it was called
Good Rest "in respect tiiat some of the Countesses of
Warwick, to avoyd much concourse of people, retired
hither when they were near the time of child-birth ; for
'tis plain that many of their children were born here."
The old house, which was surrounded by a double moat,
which still remains, was pulled down in the beginning of
this century and a new house built, but not on the same
site.
On Banner Hill Farm, half a mile further on the left
1 The elate ia a mistake, Gaveeton wm exocutetl on the day of S.8.
OerratiinH niul Protatiun, which fallo on th» 19th of Juno. Tlio difierenoe
between the Olil Style and the New .Stvle in 1312 wa* eight linys only, and,
tliorufore, the dat<;, iiccordiiiK X/t the New Style, would Ijo June 'J7th, but
the inH<Ti|ition erroneoiuly makes the variation amount to twelve days,
which id the difference between the Old and the New Style at tlie time the
monument was erect«d,
' A.S. /<"(/, a field or lueaduw land, a contradistinguisliing n.ime to
Jlill Wootton.
20 suakespkare's land.
and about the same distance from the road near the
Incliford lirook, is a Gospel Oak,' nn-asurini; '27ft. in girth
one yjird from the gnuiixl, and stan<iin^ on the confine.s of
the parishfs of Warwick and Ik-ausalf; a f»'w liundred
yards from it, also near thi- stream, is Cuckoo Hill, marking
the site of an ancient cliapcl called Ciickow Church, which
was in ruins in the reign of Henry VII.
A branch n^ud to tlie right of Blacklow Hill leads to the
village of Hill Wootton (one mile and a quarter), from
•whence a fine ])anorainic view is obtained. Hence the
road leads to Blakedown Mill (tliree-(iuartera of a mile),
prettily situated on the Avon, and adjoining the main road
to Leamington (two and a half miles).
1 These trees, which diBtinguislie)! the limits of contiguous parishes, were
so called from the custom in ancient times, by which the gosjwl of the day
was read under them by the iiamchial clergyman during the annual
perambulation of the )>oundarii'S <>f the parish, by the leading inhabitants,
in Rogation week. JlirricL- alludes to the practice in the hues addressed
to Anthea in " liesperides," —
Dearest, bury me
Under that Holy-oke, or Gosjwl-tree,
Where (though thou see'st not; thou niay'st think upon
Me, when thou yeerly go'st Procession.
ROUTE 3.— LEAMINGTO.X TO WARWICK via MYTOX
A^'D VIA EMSCOTE.
There are two roads leading from Leamington to Warwick.
The old or lower road is the more i)icturesque of the two,
being bordered by tine trees, and diversified with pleasant
views. Half-way'on this road, at Myton, there was anciently
a hamlet witli'a chapel, of which Dugdale records tliat
"there is now no more left of it than a grove of elms in
the jilace where the village stood." Tlie remains of this
grove exist in a field termed Earl's Meadow, adjoining
Myton Grange, where, about 1863, an old well was
discovered, which no doubt supi)lied the villagers. The
place now consists solelj* of a row of villa residences,
occu])ying a site on the other side of tlie road. Approach-
ing Warwick, the town appears to be embedded in a mass of
foliage, out of which the Castle towers and St. ilary's
Churcii seem to peep out coyly, wliile the top of tlie
Gatehouse asserts its existence more boldly, and itself
looks like a miniature fortress. On the left of the road,
before reaching the bridge over the Avon, is the King's
Sohool. built of red brick witli free stone dressings. It was
foumb'd by charter of Henry VIII., and erected on this site
in 1879. Viewed from the bridge, a charming vista of
trees, drooping over the banks of the river, guides the eye
to the remarkably picturesque remains of the old bridge,
covered with tangled ivy and seedlings, above which the
old Castle looms up in stately grandeur. The entrance to
the town formerly crossed the river by the old bridge near
the Castle, and then ascended Mill Street by the side of
the Castle grounds. Tliis circuitous route was re])lac((l in
17'.'0 by the erection of the present liridge, princi]>ai]y at
the crjst of Cieorge, second Earl of Warwick. This brulge
consists of one grand arch, measuring in its sjian, lo.o feet,
and in breadth, 30 feet. Soon after it was linisiicd, the
old bridge gave way under tiie pressure of a flood.
The ujjjier read, along wliicli tiu! tramway is laid, leads
througli Emscote, or Edinond.scote. On the left, just before
readiing the rorfobello Bridge over tlie Avon, is the old
Manor House,, a gabled buihling of tlie Jacobean period,
containing traces of a much older building, now extensively
32 shakespeabe's land.
modcrnipod. FurtluT along on the right, noar thfi Canal,
ie tht' church of All Saints, consocnited in If^Ol. Passing
through the suburb of Coten End, we arrive at Smith
Street, at tlie foot of wiiich is the building known ae
St. John's Hospital,' originally founded in the reign of
Eenry 1 1., by William de Nt-wljurgh, Karl of Warwick, " for
entertainment and reception of strangers and travailere, as
■well as those that were j)0()r and infirm." I'rior to the
dissolution, the income of the hospital ajjpears to have
been diverted to other jjurjiosi's, and in 1. ">().'{, the site was
granted by C^ueen Elizabeth to Anthnmj >St')ur/ht"n, "in
consideration of his good and faithful service, as well to
her as to King Henry VIII. her father. King Edward VI.
her brother, and Queen Mary her sister." The present
house was com]ileteil about llil'iJ by bis grandson, Anthony,
■whose son, Nathaniel, erected the iron railings and the
gates, and, in right of his wife, placed the leaden goats,
representing the arms of the Thorold family, of Lincoln-
shire, on the piers of the carriage entrance. Only one
of these goats now remains. The building is a large
and handsome stone mansion, having two wings, with
transomed buy windows of large dimensions, and an ample
porch in the centre, each surmounted by an open carved
parapet. The front has five gables, the three over the
porch and the bay windows being originally ornamented
•with ogee sweeps and scrolls ; the gable over the jiorch was,
however, blown down in a gale, breaking the parapet in
its fall, and has been replaced by a plain construction.
The interior contains a good Jacobean oak staircase,
leading to an oak panelled chamber, formerly the dining
room, in which is jireserved a stoup with the date 107-3 and
the Stoughton initials. The house is now the property of
the Warwick family.
Proceeding onwards, just before reaching the East Gate
on the right, is East Gate House, the birthidace, in lllo, of
Walter tSavaye Laniln-, the pnet, now occu])ied as a High
School for girls. The East Gate is surmountetl by the
Chapel of St. Peter, laiilt in the reign of Henry VI., to
replace a chajjcl of the same name, which formerly stood
in the middle of the town, and was pulled down. The
chapel was, until recently, used as a "Bablake" school;
both it and the gateway were ruthlessly restored in the
year 1788. At the foot of the declivity, to the left of th«
gateway, is the Church of St. Nicholas, consisting of a tower
' Abmini Htatenieuta are iua>le regoriling secret jiassagea alleged to oxiet
from the huii»e.
(.Ki>l N 1) 1' LAN iiV
WARWI CK CAST LE
ITMELFUEDA'S
MOuKt
TOAER
SCALl Of 'tlT
't*
TB
suakespbabe's land. 23.
and spire, a nave -with aisles, aud a cliaiiCfl, stamliii^' on
the sito of an ancient church. The pri'Sent buildiug. which
was completed in 17SU, is a tasteless structure. On the
east wall of the vestrj' is a very iuteresting incised l)rass,
representing the first vicar of the church in full eucharistic
vestments, and bearing the following inscription :—" llic
jacet Kobertus Willardsey prim, vicari. i.sti. ecclesie. qui
obiit xiij. die mens, marcii anno dni. Mill cccc^ xxiij. cujus
anime propicietur deu.s. Amen." In the north aisle is a
handsome marble monument to Ge'>r(/e itoui/hton, Estj. and
his children, and, in the south aisle and vestibule, are
monuments to other members of the same family, who,
at that time, lived at St. Jolin's, and Avere originally
possessors, from the time of King Jolin, of the .Manor
of Stoughton, near Guildford. The Register of Births
contains the following entry :-" 1772, April \b, Olive,
daughter of Robert & Anna Maria Wilmott." This Olive
afterwards claimed rank as an English princess, alleging
that she was tlie daughter of the Duke of Cumberland by a
secret marriage, aud supporting her assertions by a number
of fabricated documents, which on several occasions formed
the subject of an investigation by the courts of law.
The Castle.
Opposite to the churcli is the Gatehouse of tlie Castle,
constructed, in 18tH_), on the .site of an Klizabethan house,
which was demolished for the purpose, and wliicli belonged
to an old Warwick family. The former approaches to the
Castle, of which there were two, were situated, one on the
north, at the bottom of Castle Street, and the other on
the south, at the bottom of Mfll Street, where traces of the
entrances are .still visil)le. The present entrance consists-
of a jdaiu embattled gateway, leading to a picturesque
winding roadway, cut, for upwards of a hundred yards,
through the solid rock, and overhung with shrubs,
creepers, and trees. This roadway conducts to the outer
court, termed the Vineyard,' whe-re a grand view of the
outer walls suddenly bursts uj)on the visitor, the maiu
f«'atures of wiiicli are (iuy's Tower on the right, the
(iatewiiy in tlie middle, and Ciesar's Tower on the left.
Guy's Tower, so named in honour of the ri.-doubtablo
warrior, was built bj' the second Thomas de IJi^aucbamp
in the reign of Richard II., being compleli'd in l."W4. it is
twelve-sided, 3()ft. in diameter at the base, witii walla
lOft. tiiick, and ri.ses to a height of 12rtft.
I In llol, waKtit wuru paid to curtain wuiiiuii fcr (jatlioiiji<; gr;i])u« hero
Uuriii^ fivu da^B.
24 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Caesar's Tower, erected between 1360 and 1370, by the
first Tliomas do Boauchamp, is a marvel of constructive
skill. It is an irregular polygon, 147ft. in height, con-
taining four storeys, each with a groined roof, and is
crowned by a lioldly projecting machicolation. The ])art
facing outwards forms three segments of a circle, the
general construction being such as to constitute it a
fortress of tlie most formidable character, it is built on
the solid rock, and was, tlierefore, imjiervious to the miner.
The loopholes throughout are most .•scientifically contrived,
not being cut in the centre of the merlons in each instance,
but being pierced in positions commanding the most
advantageous situations, and being made available either
for the long or cross bow. The lower edges of the loopholes
are also sloped at the exact angle requisite to clear the
gallery below. The archers were securely ])rotected by
wooden screens, termed mantlets, and by leather curtains,
as well as by the roofs above them. The sloping base of
the tower constituted another formidable medium for
launching missies against the enemy, being so constructed
that a stone or metal projectile launched from the machico-
lation above, would rebound with a point blank aim into
the brea.sls of the attacking force beneath.
The Gateway, constructed in the 14th century, Avas in
ancient times approached by a drawbridge, which formerly
spanned the moat, but is now replaced by a stone arch.
On the inner side of this is the Barbican, projecting some
50ft. from the wall, and rising two storeys in height above
the archway. It is flanked by two octagon turrets,
loopholed for the ])urpose* of defending the bridge and
its apjiroaches. Within the drawbridge is a i)ortcullis, and
behind the portcullis are four holes overhead, through
which blazing pitch, hot lead, or other scnrifying com-
pounds could be ])Oured on the heads of the assailants.
Beyond the portcullis again were the doors. Passing
through tlie archway, we find ourselves in a small
court, 24ft. long by lift, wide, to which, if the assailants
penetrated, they would find themselves entirely at the
mercy of the defenders above. From a gallery o\er the
archway, on the inner side of the Barbican, and from the
walls and towers on all sides, a murderous discharge of
missiles could be maintained, the slope of the ground
iij)wards being an adilitioiial disadvantage to the assailants.
At the npi)er end of this court is The Gatehouse, with
a groined archway, which was again defendod l)v a
portcullis, loopholes, and <loors, like the Barbican. It is
shakespeahe's land. 25
flanked liy towers, the summits of which are connected
by a bridge, enabling the defenders to concentrate the
largest amount of destructive power on the court beneath.
The outer portcullis is worked by a windlass, w hich still
exists in the lower chamber of the south-east turret.
Entering the spacious Inner Court, which is nearly two
acres in extent, and clothed in the centre with dainty
greensward, the picturesque and stately conformation of
the Castle attracts the eye. In front stands the Mound or
Keep, studded with trees and shrubs, and crossed by
the fortifications, in which the Northern Tower forms a
prominent object. On the right, connected by walls of
enormous strength, are two incomplete towers, tenned
the Bear and Clarence Towers, the former begun by
Richard 111., and the latter probably by liis brother,
George, Duke of Clarence. On the left, extending to the
Hill lower at the base of the Mound, is the family mansion,
altered and enlarged at various times since it was first
built, but with so much skill as to be still wonderfully in
keeping with the general aspect of the Castle.
A Fortress is said to have existed here in Roman times,
and Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, is .stated to
have erected a keep or dungeon on the mound in the year
'Jib, and this again is stated to have been enlarged"^ by
Turchil, Earl of Warwick, in the time of the Conqueror. Xo
traces of Saxon or N'orman work are, however, discoverable
in the present fabric, the earliest part of which, comprising
the Great Hall, with its turret stairs, the second turret
nearest the State Bedroom, and the Spy Tower with the
Chapel, were probably erected towards the end of the 13th,
or beginning of the 14th century. Tlie whole of these
apartments rest on a series of groined arches, supported by
massive piers. The Entrance rorcli and the adjoining
Dining Room, with the rooms over it in front of the Great
Hall, were added by the then Earl of Warwick, about
1770. The rooms at the western end, comprising the State
Bedroom and the Boudoir, and those adjoining the eastern
end of the Great Hall, were in all jirobability built about
1605 by Sir Fulke Greville, who, at the same time, effected
considerable alterations in other parts of the Castle.
Judgt'd by the evidence of a fiight of steps, which
formerly led to the basement, the level of the courtyard
seems to have risen eighteen inches since the construction
of the Great Hall.
The Great Hall is ai)proached by a modern porch, leading
to a doorway at the top of a llight of stone steps. It and
26 shaeespbabb's land.
some of the adjoining private apartments were, unhappily,
6iitto<l by a disastrous fire, whicii broke out on Sunday,
ecenilu-r .3rd, 1871 ; they have since been restored under
the supervision of Mr. Salvin. Prior to the fire, the roof,
•which WHS formed of richly carve<l oak, construct»'d about
183<-t. was Several feet lower ; the fire led to the discovery
of tile clerestor%' windows, opening into the passage cut
through the solid wall on the south side, which is 10ft. in
thickness, and the new roof was consequently placed above
them. In ancient times, there can be no doubt that
chambers e.\isted over the hall. Thej* were lighte<l by the
clerestory windows, and access to them was gained by the
adjoining octagonal turret. The dais and the fireplace
were at the west end, vestiges of the latter having been
discovered in 1871, and the chimney being still visible in
the south-west angle. At the east end are two blocked up
doorways, which, in early times, led to the kitchen and the
pantry. The hall is 62ft. long, 35ft. broad, and nearly
40ft. high. It is lighted by three large recessed windows
of modem construction, and is panelled with oak to a
height of nearly "Jft. The floor is composed of red and
white marble in lozenge shaped squares, brought from the
neighbourhood of Verona, and the fine hooded mantlepiece
of carved stone, which replaces the one destroyed in the
fire, came from Rome. The length of the suite of apartments
visible from the hall is 330ft., and through the doorway
leading to the Chapel, a good view is obtained of the fine
equestrian portrait of Charles I., by Van Dyck,^ in which
the King is represented in armour, mounted on a grey
horse, and attended by his equerrj^, either the Chevalier
d" Epernon or M. de bt. Antoine. In the recess of the
centre window is a remarkably fine cauldron of l>ell metal,
popularly, though erroneously, styled Guy's Porridge Pot. It
holds about 120 gallons, and is in reality a garrison cooking
]iot. used for seething flesh rations. It was probably
originally made for Sir John Talbot, of Swanington, who
died in 1365, as there is an old couplet relating to it,
quoted in XichoWs " History of Leicestershire," which runs
thus: —
There'* nothing left of Talbot's luime
Bot T&lbot's pot and Talbot'a lane.
It possibly came to Warwick Castle through the marriage
1 There are »imilar picturee in the V.in Dyck room at Windsor Caatle,
in the second Pre«*noe Chamber nt HampVm Court, and in the Hall of
tlie Middle Temple, London, and there is also a replica at Biltrm Hall.
The e<jueetrian portrait of the King, bv Van I>yck, now in the National
Oallerj, was parchaa«d iu 1SS6 for £1T,'600.
SHAKESPBABE'S LAND. 21
of Margaret, daughter of Richard de Beauchamp, with
John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsburj', from whom descended
the Dudleys, Viscounts Lisle, afterwards Earls of Warwick.
Notwithstanding that the existence of the " redoubtable
Guy " must be relegated to the region of myths, a suit of
armour seems to have been appropriated to him at a
comparatively earlj' period, as in the reign of Henry VIII. ^
William Hoggeson, one of the Yeomen of the King's
butter}-, was granted the custody of the sword, with a fee
of 2d. per diem.*
In the splay of the window is a quaint and characteristic
sketch of Mrs. Comer, a former portress at the lodge, who
used to exhibit, in a naive speech, the relics of Guy, which
were then kept at the lodge.
The Hall contains an interesting collection of arms and
armour, including " A Knight in German Fluted Armour^
on a Ilorpe in English Armour of the 15th Century "' ; "A
fine Tilting Suit, with Double Plates"; "Suit of Robert
Dudley, Earl of Leicester " ; " Suit of Charles Graham^
Marquis of Montrose"; "Breastplate and Morion of Lord
Brooke.' killed at the Siege of Lichfield, 1643. the Buff
Coat being modern ; " Helmet of a Crusader " ; " Helmet of
Sir Richard Wallace"; "Italian Damascene Helmet";
" Italian Steel Helmet "; " Helmet of Oliver Cromwell, and
another Puritan Helmet'"; "A Square Painted Shield of
the reign of Edward IV."; " A Pair of large Two-handed
Swords ■■ ; Several " Scotch Claymores "' ; " A Swivel
Arquebuse," taken from a French Privateer off the west
coast of Ireland, in the last century. An Italian Trousseau
Chest, and a richly carveil Oak Bench, beautifully under-
cut, are also jtreserved here.
1 In lOiO. however, Dugdale expresses an opinion tnat the aruiuur &nd
aecoutremento are of a later fieriod than the era of the hero, aod since that
date the identitj' of the roput«d relics has no doubt become more oonfuBed,
an in recent times they appear Uj have been thus compusdil :— His htlm
oonsiits of a baiiciuct or headpiece of the era of Kdward III., hi*
brcaitplate of !L Huiif^rian pavois or shield of the time of Henry VII.,
his 'jtiflcplalt, of a rizorod wall shield of the rei^ of James I., hig
vallcirnf ttaf, of the shaft of an early tilting lance, his ixconl is a two
handed weapon. 5ft. Oin. long, of the puriol of Heury VIII. His horit
arTn.n\ir, cijuitisting of a large chamfrun or headpiece, apoitrol, worn in
front of th'-- hors'j'it bn-ast, and a croupidre. to defend the horse's ttanks,
is all of the time of Henrj- VI. patr Phillut Slipptri are a pair of
pointed slippered stirrups, of iron, of the reign of Henry VI., and th«
fork accompanying the '•porridge pot ' is a military fork of the time of
Henry Vll. I'rior Uj the Commonwealth, the bfidy armour of Guy seems
to have been kept at Kenilwurth Castle, and his horse armour and weapons
at Warwick. Tlie bn<Jy armour was probably remoTed to Warwidc at tba
time of the dinmantlement of Kenilwortli Castle. A ri'i rtf tU- Dup Cow
still preaerved iu Ctueor's Tower proves on exaaiiuatiou to be a rib of a n hale.
28 shakkspeare's laxd.
It seems almost certnin tlint this liall witni'ssed, in June,
1312, tlu» ^rim and impressive trial by torchlight of
Piers (raveston, when the Karls of Lancaster, (Jloucester,
Hereford, Arundel, Warwick, and others, imposed sentence
of death on the once haughty and insolent favourite of
Edward II., who cowered before them with vain entreaties
for his life. From the centre window, the view looking
up the river, which flows at a depth of 100ft. below, is
replete with charms. Immediately above are the ruins of
the Old Mill, bounded on the right by ihc timber frame-
work and the buttress wall of the wheel, beyontl which the
Avon, gliding swiftly over the? weir, churns uji its j)ale
nmber waters into creaming eddies, which speed gaily
away to yield up their ephemeral existence. Higher up,
the old bridge, with its ruined arches covered with ivy and
tangled ])lants, throws its shadows into the ])lacid water
])ictures(piely intensified by a background of tall Scotch
firs, ivied to their topmost br<inches. Beyond this, the
noble arch of the bridge al)ove serves as a framework to
comiilete an unspeakaldy beautiful picture.
Commencing with the Red Drawing Room, next to the
Great Hall, the State Apirtiuents, which communicate
with one anotlier, are situated in the following order: —
The Red Drawing Room, the wainscoted i)anelling of
which is of a deip red colour, with gilt moulding, is a
handsome saloon. 30ft. by I9.}ft., the ceiling being picked
out in white and gold. The windows were apparently
constructed in the time of Charles II.
Red Drawinc, Room. — This room contains tlio following,' maat«rly
port! ait* : — ■" Thnm.-w Howard, Earl of Ariuulel, in Armour" (liieil ]tM6),
Jiulicn.i: '•■ Dutch Biusromaster," Ucinbrnmlt : *" Wifeof .Snyders," in cloee
cup, nitf. anil embroidt-reil bodice. Van Jh/clc : " Assunijjtion of the
Virgin," Jinff'a' lie :*"Amhr\ii;'u<. Marquis de Spinola," in half iinuour with
ruff, RuOeiiJi. A handsome Buhl Table stands opposite the fireplac*-. Over
the fireplaco is a splendid liuhl Clock. On the right hand a very fine
Cabinet of I ortoise-shell and elx)nv, inlaid with ivor>, foruierlr l>elongiiig
to the Spinola family. At the end of the nxini are tliree luindKome ElM>ny
C.ibineis. containing some rare and excellent g)>erinien8 of i/imogtai enamels.
Between the windows is a very handnorae Table of l.avi>ro di Commeaao,
inlaid with flower patterns, and formerly belouj^ing to Queen Maria
Antoinette.
The Cedar Drawing Room is so styled from its being
panelled and bordered with cedar wood, elaborately carved.
It is 47ft. long by ^.'S^ft. broad, and contains some of the
best examples of Van Dyck.
Ceiur Drawing Rohm.— Pictures : •" Paviline Adorne. MarchoM di
Brignol I, and her son," Van Ihich; " Duke of Newcastle." co])iod from Van
Ih/ck : " James Graham, Marquis of Montrose" (1012-1050), Van Dyck:
SHAKESPE ABE'S LAND. 29
'■Queeu Henrietta Maria" (full length), the bust by Van Di/cl; the rest
of the picture oorapleted by Sir Jotliua ReynoUU : " Cliarles I." (half
length), Van. Dyck- : " Robert Rich, Eaal of Wai-wick " (died 10 J8), Old
atoiii : *" Beatrice Cosantia, Princess <li Santa Croce," I'an Byck : "Two
Bi'auties of the Court of Cliarles II." (one over each door), Ldy. In tlie
ceutie of the room is a fine Floreutine Mosiiic Table. On each siiie of the
fireplace are Busts of Henry, Earl of Warwick (died 185.t)'jy JS'oHektM, and
Surah, Countess of Warwick (died 1851 J by Bonelli. The room also contains
a valuable Bust of Charles I., attributed to Bi.rnint, a Bust of Proserpine
bv Hiram Poirer, a Bust from the Giustiniam Miuerva, two very fine
Ktruscan Vases and other Etruscan Ware, a pair of sea green Oriental
Vaaes. and some handsome Buhl Tables.
Tlie Gilt or Green Drawing Room is 29.Jft. long by 24ft.
brniid, iukI is noticeulilc for the graceful ornanieiitation of
the walls, cornices, and ceiling.
Gilt or Grkek Draa'ino Room. — Pictures, etc. : Three oval
IHjrtraits in panels of "Francis" (died 1043), "Robert" (died 1676),
and " Fulke" (died \710), sons of Robert, Lord Brooke (killed 1643),
who followed him in successioi) ; " Algernon Percy, Karl of Northum-
berlaiid," in armour (half length) (died lOtiS), Do'json : "Earl of
Strafl'oiil," in armour (half length) (15931641), Van Dyclc; * " A \\ arrior,"
in black velvet doublet with wide sleeves, 3/oro/ii, a sldendid example of
this maater ; ' Marquis of Huntley " (died 164tf), Van Dyck : " Charles II.";
"Cliai'les I.," in a slashed robe and lace collar, copird from I'an Dyck :
"A Cavalier," in armour, with a red scarf and baton, Vaa Dyck- : "Queen
Henrietta Maria," copied from Van Dyck; " A Lady," Ltiy; " luiiatitis
Loyola" (14yl-1556), founder of the order of Jesuits, lull length, by
liahiiu. This splendid example of the great Flemish painter was iiainted
for the Jesuit's College at Antwerp, and brought to England at tlie time
of the French Revolution, when it w;is bought by George, second Earl of
Warwick. " Robert Bertie, Earl ot Liudsey," C'ornelis Jansnois. The
Earl ooiDmandoil the Royal forces at Edge Hill, where he was wounded
and Uiken pris<jner, dying while being conveyed from the field of liuttle to
V\ arwick Castle. " Earl of Cambridge," Unknown; " Female f'liild. 17th
Century," Dutch School : " Marquis U'Avila," Van Dyck ; " William, Lord
Brooke" (1694-1727), Dald ; "Mary, Lady Brooke,' Dahl ; "Portrait of
a Boy," Van Dyck: "Prince Rupert" (half lei.gth). Van Dyck: "The
Baptism of St. John," painted on the root of anietlnst. In the centre of
the rocnu is an exquisite Table in pietra dura, from the Grimaiii Palace at
Venice. The surface is composed of hard and precious stones, such as
agate, corneliiui, chalcedony, jasiter, and lapis l.izuli. inlaid on a slab of
marble, the arms of the Griniani family eiisigued with fcadges lepreseiiting
the lionours they attainetl, appeal on shields at each comer. On the north
sitle of the room are two beautiful early Italian Marriage Cliests, the upper
panels of which are delicately painted. There are also 8<_>nie line Buhl
Tables, a beautiful El>juy Casket, and a charming Statuette of Venus,
inodellu<l in wax by John of Boloyna. The wainscot masks a svcret des-
cending staircase.
Tile State Bedroom is 24ft. square. I'Voni the windows of
this riioni, tin- \ ii-ws in eacli direction are lo\ely in the
e.vtrenn;. Aliove, the cascade rijjpling over the weir amidst
picturesque surroundings, serves to animate the sylvan
beauties of the scene, wliile beneath, tht; vast (-"dar trees
sjtread out their feather}- foliage in unruillcd and tranquil
magniticeuce. In front the twin streams of the Avon wind
so shakespease's land.
gracefully along, glitterinc among old elms, in the bought
of which squirrels frisk about, while rooks caw in their
topmost branches.
State Bkdkoom. — The B«i u of galmon ooloai*J daniadk, with
ooverliiifl ami couiit«rpaues of batin, richlr embroidanxi with crinison
TelTet. Tliiu, with the furniture in this room, wa« preeeiitctt to
George, second Earl of Warwick, by George III., »iid formerly belonged
to Queen Anne. On the north wall is some fine Orusselk Tapestry,
manufactured in 1(304, and illtutrating a garden attached to tome
mediwviil palace, probably the Park at BniiwelB. The Chimney-piece,
executed by We-atmarott, ia of white marble and verd anticjiie. The
room aUo cf^utaLuB a splendid Buhl Wardrobe, a Marquetrie Cabinet,
a Table inlaid with c<ipf)er, bn»ai<, and cteel, anil, in the window,
a Travelling Trunk, covere<l with leather, formerly belonging to Queen
Anne, and bejixing her initiaU, AR., Burmounted by a crown. Picturee :
•' Queen Aiuie," in a brocaile dress with the ctillar and jewel of the Order
of the Garter, KntlUr : " A Member of the Thyune Family," DnkiuncA :
'Duke of Monmouth" (lC40-lt)S5), Vnk-noirn.
The Boudoir, which is 23ift. long by 13ft. wide, is a
tasteful room. It stands at the end of the State Apart-
ments, and affords charming views from its windows. At
the west end, a magnificent cedar spreads out its gigantic
branches in mute assertion of its claims to admiration, and
to the right of it a circular path winds its way gracefully
through trees and shrubs up the sides of the ivy covered
mound.
Boudoir. — Pictures : * " Henry VIII." (knee- piece). Ham Holbein,
the youngtr, a characteristic p<:)rtrait of great power and vivid deline-
ation, i>robably painted about 1 j40 ; "Barbara VjUiers, Duchess of
Cleveland," U'ly : "Boar Hunt." Huliem ; "A Duel," HuchUnburgh :
"WiUiam RuKsell, First Duke of Bedford " (ditd 1700); "St. Stephen,"
Lorenzo Ji Crtdi ; " St. John," Lortnzo di Crtdi; " Two Pictures of Sainta,"
Andria del Sarto : "Anne, First Duchess of Bedford," daughter and sole
heiress of Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset; " I>ieta, or Dead Christ,"
Z. Carracci : "A Reformer," (Miles Coverdale f), Willem ran Mierit;
"Francis, Second Earl of Bedford," (1528-15S6) ; "One of the Beauties
of the Court of Charles II.," Lely : " Henry IV. of France," in pl;iin black
drese (small full length copy). If'. Patoun ; " Head of Henry VIII. when
a Boy," Van Dycl- : "A Daughter of Lord Brooke"; "St. Seb.i«tian,"
Van'lhfck: " Old Woman Eating Pottige by Lamplight," Oerhard Dou:
"Mrs. Digby Dressed as an Abbess" " Heiul of St. Jerome," Rubens:
"Card Players," Ttnien : "One of the Beauties of the Court of Charlai
II.," Lily : " Madonna and Child, "^aroccio.- *" Anno Boleyn," (small half
length), llanf Holhein, tht younger: '"M.iry Boleyn," /^an* Holbein, the
younger: "A Lan<U»cape" ; "Sketch of the Four Evangelists," Rubeni:
"Two Landscapes," Salvator Rofa. This nxsm also contains a curious and
highly finishe<l Clock, with the twelve principal events in the life of the
Saviour, enamelled in silver ; the Hea<l of a Faun, in white marble, which
belongol to the late Sir Charles Greville ; an inlaid Florentine Cabinet,
some inlaid Tables, and a Venetian Mirror.
Iltnce, a door in the wainscot leads to the Armoury
Passage, which lies between the Boudoir and the Compass
Room, and comprises a narrow corridor at the back of the
Gilt Koom, ytate Bedroom, and Boudoir.
shakespbauk's land 31
Armoury Passage. — Pictiiree : " George Villiere, Duke of Buckiiigliam,
and his brother Francis, ae bo.vB," Van Dyck : "Portrait of Christ"!;
■"Sir C. J. GrvviUe and the Duke of York," Sir 0. Hayter : "Prince
Rupeit," au'l a number of miacellaneoUB portraits of little merit. The
other objectB of interest are A Ciiat of " Oliver Cromwell's Face
after lJe;itli " ; A fiue collection of Medieval Arms, comprising
battle axes, cross-bows, calivors. pikes, aniuebuses, daggers, swords, inc. ;
A sui lof Chain Mail, a suit of Puritan Aruiour, a 'lurkish Behe;iding
Knife, and an intiicate Lock, of exfi\iisite workiiianshiji, frum a convent.
Tho Billiard Room occupies one of the room.s of the
Western Tower, to wliich a staircase leads from the
Armoury Passage. Tlie Billiard Table has representations
of the Battles of the Roses artistically carved on its panels.
The Compass Room is a small polygonal ante-chamber,
communicating with the Gilt Koom. The princij)al window
contains painted Flemisli gla.ss of considerable merit.
Compass Room. — Pictiires : " Head of an Old 'iia.ii," livUn* : "St.
Paul Lighting a Fire, Isle of Melita," and " St. Paul Shaking off the
Viper," liuhins: "Napoleon L," David; " Landsaipe," tinUtitor Jiosa :
"" Portrait of a Laily," Dutch Hcliool; "Catherine, Wife of iiubort, Second
Lord BriHike, and Eldest Daughter of Francis, Second Karl of Bedford " ;
*" Maximiliau L, Emperor of Germany (1469-1519), and his Sister," Lucas
Craimcl, ; ■' A .Storm and Wreck," and " A Seapiece," Ifilktu vamli Velde,
tliK yiiunrjcr: "Saint John"; "St. Peter in Prison," and "St. Peter
Rele;ised from Prison," Pinter Net/*, tlu youvgcr : "Small Portrait of a
Woman," Dutch School: "Bacchanalian Gruup," Rubtnt ; ''Ecce Agnus
Dei." Tiijiolo : " A Saint " ; " Laugliiiig Boj," Murillo ; " Scene from the
Merrj- Wives of Windsor," SlotUiart : " Head of an Old Man," Rubens:
" Small Coast Scene," M'iUem van tie Velde, the younger: "Two Pictures
of Bears."
Chai'EL Passage. — Pictures : " Large Equestrian Portrait of Charles L,"
Vail DycL- : "Mother of Rubens," Rubau : "David Rrckiiert " (the
painter). Van Dyck: " Femanilo Alvarez de Toledo, Duke of Alva "(1508-
15S2), Van Dycl: : " Still Life," ,SW«it';'; " .Sarah, Countess of Warwick"
(died 1851), Sir G. Ilayter : " Duns Seotus," vl'/ra^ain Janaens : "Diego
Sannieutode Acuua, Conde di Goudoroiir"(Spaui8h Ambassador at the Court
cf James I.), Van Dyck. Here are also a cleverly executed Wood Carving
of the " Battle of the Amazons," after the painting by Rubi.nf, in the
Old Piuakiithek at Munich ; and a fine Bust of Edward, the Black
Prince (1330 137t5). by Chanlrty.
The Chapel contains a window of old painted glass,
presented by the Earl of K.ssex in 1759; in the west window
is a headle.-<s Statuetti- of a Palmer, supposed by tlie late
Mr. M. II. Blo.xluim (the eminent anti(piarian) to represent
Guy, Earl of Wurwick, in i)ilgrim's garl).
The Great Dining Room was built by Francis, first Earl of
Warwick, aliout the year 1770; it is gorgeous in carving
and gilding in the ta.ste of that period, and is lighted by a
Genoese crystal chandelier.
' One of several taken from a |)aeudi>-likene»s, said t^j have been engraved
■on on emeralil jirweutud by tho Grand Turk to Pope Innocent VIII.
32 8HAKESPEAUK*S LAND.
Qrkat Disiso R(X)M. —Picture*: "Lions." Hulien*: " Augusta of
Saxo Cnburg. I'riiice's of Walus (171s»-1772), witli the infant prince, after-
wards lie<irxi! III.," I'hUips ; " Frodeiick Louis, I'linco of Wales" (1707-
1751). Aic/,-ir./..»,i.
Private Apartments (not open to visitors).
C(>Ki<UK>R. Pictures: "IjonI IJrooke"; " U-uly Jane Hamilton, ilaughtur
of JaineH, Sixth Kiirl of Alwrc-orii. and VV'Ifo of 'L«>rd ^Vrchibald Hamilton "
(diixl 17:i4) ; '• Uolwrt, l»rd Urooke." lt)72 (dieil I(;70) ; " Eliaibeth,
Daughter of Sir H. F. Thynnu, ami Wife of Sir R. Howe " ; " John Wilniot,
Seconil Karl of Rochester" ; "A L:idy," in a green dress ; " lyonl Archibald
Hamilton. Seventh son of \Mlliam Douglas, Duke of Hamilton " : " Uidy
Louisa. Liidy Frances, and I^a4ly Charlotte UrevUlu, Dttujjhters of Francis,
First Karl of Warwick."
Brkakfast Room — Pictures : "' .Joanna, Queen of Naples," ascribeil by
soni6 to L. till I'iifi, but more proK-ibly by (liulio Homano, a. fine picture ;
" View of the Doife's I'ahice .it Venice, with State li:u-ges In the Fore-
ground," CaiKil'tto : " Staircjise in the Doge's Palace," VnnaUtto : " Rattle
Piece, Jarnpo C(irt,»e (II Borgojfnoiie) ; Views of the Castle by (.'(inulMo : —
(a) "The (Dastle fiom the River, i(K)king upwards towarils "the Rridge " ;
(b) " Barbican, with Guy's and Caaear's 'rowers," part of the town visible on
the right"; (c) " Bjirbican and Towers, from the Courtyard " ; (d)
"Residential Portion of the Caatle " ; (c) " Tlie C:i«tle from the Park."
The room also contains two fine Portugiiese Cabinets, and, Rtinding on a.
bullet, a bciutiful collection of re<l lustre ware, i.e., a stone ware, on the
BUI face of which a lustre i» brought out by burnt meUiUic o.xjdus of
brilliant colours.
Rki> SiTTiMi Room.— Pictures : "Fruit," Schiff; " Portrait of a Man,"
with the inscription, " /Ktatis su» 'i\ fortunaj," Porbtit : "Duke of
Buckingham"; " Duke de Ferrara," IhuM Dii»ai : "Riderless Horse in
Battle"; " Figure of an Angel carrying a Cloth"; "Two Htuuln of Olil
Men," Rulnns : "The Present Ki.rl of Warwick," Walts: "Study of a
Head of a Female " (Saint'/), Luiiii: " Hea<l of a Man " : " Don Garzia do
Mo<lici," wlio, at the age of fourteen, killed his brother, Giovanni, and
was in turn st.iblx!<l to death, us an act of retribution, by his father,
Coeimo de Metlici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, in the ye.'ir 15t!2; "M.idonua
and Child " on panel, rnhnoirn : "Margaret, Duchess of Parma," Paolo
Veroneni: : " Portrait of a Man Wearing a Chain round his Neck" (three-
quarter length) ; •'Child c.irrying a Ghus Dish"; "Hoy and Dog,"
Jtomney.
L<iRD Warwick's Room.— " Interior of a Church," DtVOrmr : "Pictures
of Saints." Ta<lileo Uixildi : " Knighte Tilling"; "The Saviour," in
TaiHJstry ; " Female Saint, Praying." In the Chimney-piece in this room
are Marble Medallions of considerable artistic merit.
Inner Room. -" I»uis XIV. of France on a Piebald Horse," A. F. Van
der Meulcn: "French Man of War," BacLliinnoi : " HeatI of a Cow,"
Berghtiii; "A Shipwreck," Willful Van dc Vdde, the i/oumjcr : "Small
8ea-Piece," Jirfxihiivi: "Interior of a Church," Emanuel dt Willc : "On
the way to Market," Jan Breuiilnl (Velvet Breughel); "Guard Room,"
Teniert : " Bi>y in Armour," S'-liatkrn; "Martin Luther," llaim Holbein,
tilt younpcr : "Interior of a Church"; "Tritons and Sea Horsw," Van
Dycl:. The Mantle-piece is lUilian, of fine workmanship.
TnECEliAH Lobby.— Kctures : "Francis, Earl Brooke"; "Schoolboy,"
Reynold!: "Two Portraits"; "Boy holding a Fish in one Hand and a
Book in the other," Romney : "Charles I. on Horseback" (small),
Kan Dyk- : "Portrait," Unknoicn : "An Old Butler"; " Capi<U at
Play," KiO'i-nt.
the Library was destroj-ed by the fire of 1871, and has
since been restored from the designs of Mr, G. Fox, carried
SHAKESPEARE'S LAXT>. 33
out by Mr. Jacks, of Warwick. The ceilinp is panelleil and
gilt, and tlie bookshelves are divided by nineteen pilasters,
each of a different design, in the Renaissance style : the
princi])nl ornamentation being medallions of verj' artistic
execution. The sides of the doors are of exquisite Italian
■work, and the hooded marble chimney-piece, from Venice,
is of most graceful design. Tliere is a small picture of
" Dndlny. Karl of Leicester," by Van Dyck.
The Shakespeare Room adjoins Cfesar's Tower, and was
oriarinally a laundry, but has recently been converted into
a room intended to receive a valuable collection of Shakes-
peare's works.
Shakespeare Room.— Pictures: "Queen Elizabeth." Guilllm fitrttet:
"Robert, Earl of Leycester " ; "Ann Russell, eldest Daugliter of
Francis, Second Earl of Beilford, and Third Wife of Ambrose Dudley,
Earl of Warwick " ; ''An Old Man witli a Ruff" ; "Robert Devereiix,
Second Earl of Essex" (lotJT - 1601) ; "Sir William Dugdale " (1605-
1686); " Shakesjieare Writing at a Lattice Window"; •■ John
Locke" (1032-17U-J), Knelhr ; "Anne, the Good Counte^^s of Warwick" ;
"A Dutch Gentleman (uuknowni) of the 17th Century"; " Olirer Crom-
well " <.15l'9-10'>8), H'oUtT/ "Robert, Second Lord Brooke," attributed to
Dohton : " Fulke GrevLUe, First Lord Brooke" (copie<l from the originid
at Compton Vemey), Cnuten : " Sir Philip Sidney " (1564 - 158rt) ;
"Shakespeare," attributed to ConidU JannscM : "Lady and Child,"
Bupixised to be Mary Queen of Scots and James L ; " Robert, Karl of
Leycester"; " Head" of St. Peter"; "Mrs. Siddons with the Mask of
Tragedy,' Hir Jiuhva Rfiinolds. At the end of the room is the celebrated
Kdiihr'oi-th ButYd, manufactured by Ciwkes and Sons, of ^^■arwick. out of
an oak tree, formerly growing near the edge of the Lake at Kenilworth,
and exhibited at the Great Exhibition of 1S51. The centre panel depicts
the entry of Qvieen Elizabeth into KeuUworth C.tstle. and other panels
represent scenes from Sir Walter Scott's novel, with figures at tlie foot
pourtraying Sidney, Raleigh, Shnkeaijcare, and Drake. The Hutfet was
jiresented h\ the Town and County of ^^'arwick to the present Earl of
Warwick on his marriage.
The basement story of the Castle, which retains its
massive early architecture, is occujned by the domestic
offices. Underneath the steps of the Great Hall is a tn-foil-
headed arch, now blocked up, which, in ancient times,
formed tlie entrance.
Amongst the artistic treasures which the Private
Ai)artmcnts of the Castle contain is a unique collection
of .Shaki'S])(.'arean memorials, the most important of
which are the only known manuscrii)t3 of Shakespeare's
plays, written before the close of the 17th century. The
first of these, understood to have been written in the year
]G10, is the "History of King Henry IV." (the two
parts condensed into one), consisting of fifty-five leaves
and a |ireliminary leaf. It is believed to be in the
liandwnting of Sir Edwartl Dering, of Surrenden, in Kent,
34 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
and to have boen transcribed from some other manuscript,
as no printed copy is known to contain its various
corrections and alterations. The next is a volume of
manuscript jjoetical miscellanies, including a manuscript
copy of the trap'dy of "Julius Ca-sar," transcribed in the
reij,'n of Charles II.' From the very numerous variations
in tlie manuscript from all the printed editions, it is
clearly transcribed from some independent version, and,
jud>,'iufi from a technical direction regarding the descent
of I'indarus in Act V., most probably from an ancient
playhouse copy. Among the rich collection of the poet's
plays and works, the following are the most prominently
noteworthy: —
Shakespeare Memorials.— .V fine copy of the Folio Edition of 1623 ;
'• HauiUt." lOOT, ltj;i7, 1676 ; The Whole Contention between the two
famous housea. Ijtncaster anJ Yorke, kc, 16ly (second mrt of •' King
Henry VI.") ; •■ King Lear," 10o8 ; " Macbeth," extracted fruui the aecond
folio edition (with uianuscript alterationg of the text in a very old liand);
" Merchant of Venice." 1600 ; " Romeo ami Juiiet," 1500, with autograph
of Ge. Tge Steeveiis. There i» also a moet intf re»ting collection of warfrooe
and proiKjrty bilbj, for the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, from 1713 to 1716,
certified forpajTuent by Cibber, WUks, and B<x)th.
The grounds adjoining the Castle are replete witii sylvan
beauty, and contain several cedars of Lebanon, famed for
their size and age. Attached to the base of the rock
underneath the most westerly window of the Great Hall,
is a brass plate, commemorative of a sad accident, and
appropriately framed by the limbs of a gigantic ivy tree.
The inscription runs thus: —
Juxta hanc ripam e cymbft Bubmersus fuit
Gualtenw Bagot, Jan'. 10 A. D. 180o. .Et. tose 22
Oh ! cnidells Avon Stygift infelicia uudA
Suaviloiiuua posthac non tibi prosit olor !
Merso uamque tuo violenti ingurgite, nato
HsBO verba in8crii»it fleng et amann genitor.i
The unfortunate young man was a relation of Lord Bagot,
and is burie<i at Bishop's Tachbrook.
From the State Apartments thf visitor is next conducted,
to the lowest stage of Caesar's Tower. A descent of eight
steps from the inner court leads to the doorway, and from
this, sixteen more conduct to the floor of the dungeon,
which is four or five feet below the general basement. It
is a strong stone-vaulted chamber, 17ft. 4in. long, 13ft. Sin.
> Near this bank W.ilt«r Hagut fell out of a boat, and was drtniiieil, oa
the 10th Janviary, ISOo ; aged 2'J yearn.
Oh cruel Avun ! tjadder than Stygian wave.
M.iy (thy) swe«t-voice<l awan nevermore profit thee f
On hia son's death, sunk in thy turbulent streini,
A fond .-uid weeping father inscribes these lines.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 36
wide, and 14ft. 6in. high. The roof is groined in two hays.
On the south side is a jihiin semi-circular headed oiieuing,
admitting light from a deeplj- sjilayed window, Gin. wide,
on the exterior. On the north is a small square aperture
to the inner court. On the south side also is a passage,
separated from the prison hy iron liars, so as to prevent
access. On the walls near the window and door are rudely
scratched letters, dra'wings of bows, crucifixes, escutcheons,
&c., now nearly obliterated by damp, and the following
inscriptions: —
HaJ'iEX 1 olyir : |5?Ty TK : (j vvTlR. To : Hip:
>4U(L y My Fs?J HAi Bin. 3ITE7L ycTR.
^^^^ /(pl^. -^ V 5
1^^'Wyx. tSxyXH. CvTJEJl to H.
A TRIfML-h. 2« This TiAdS
TDJStTTn
36 shaeespbabb's land.
Guy's Tower, which is the next showii, contains five
floor?, t-acli lloor having a groined roof, and being sub-
diTi<ltd into one large and two email rooms, the sides of
which are pierced with numerous loopholes, commanding
in various directions the curtains which the tower was
intended to protect. A staircase of 133 steps leads to the
summit, which is crowned by a machicolated parapet. The
vault beneath has been constructed of great strength,
apparently for the purpose of supporting on the roof some
ponderous and powerful engine, calculated to annihilate
anything which could be brought against it. The details
of the Castle can be liest observed from this tower, and it
commands a fine view of the surrounding country, extend-
ing for many miles. The second floor chamber, now used
as a muniment room, was the place of confinement of the
Earl of Lindsey, who, with his father, was taken prisoner
at the battle of Edge Hill.
We pass out of the Inner Court by a gateway in the
north wall, apparently loopholed for artillery. It contains
a portcullis, and was probably constructed by George
Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence. CYossing the moat by a
stone i>ridge, which replaces the ancient drawbridge, a
short walk brings us to The Greenhouse, built expressly to
contain and exhibit the noble proportions of the celebrated
"Warwick Vase,'' one of the finest remains of Grecian art,
which was purchased by George, second Earl of Warwick,
from his uncle, Sir William Ilamilton. The inscription on
the pedestal informs us that " this monument of ancient
art and Roman splendour was dug out of the ruins of the
Tiburtine villa, the favourite retreat of Hadrian Augustus,
that it was restored by the order of Sir William Hamilton,
ambassador from George III., King of Great Britain, to
Ferdinand IV., King of Sicily, who sent it home, and was
by him dedicated to the ancestral (or national) genius of
liberal arts in 1774." The vase was found in 1770, during
excavations carried on in the bed of a small lake, called
Pantanello, overlooking the Vale of Tempe, near TivolL
sixteen miles from Rome. How it came there is not
known. Hadrian's villa was occupied by the Gothic King,
Totila, 546 A.D., when he laid siege to Rome, and the vase
may have been cast into the lake to save it from the
invaders. The villa was finished about 138 a.d., but
this work is of an earlier date, and is attributed to
Lysijipus. of Sicyon, a Greek artist of the close of the 4th
century B.C., when the beautiful or elegant style began to
replace the noble severity of Phidias, and his school. The
SHAKESPE ABE'S LAND. 37
vase is of white mnrbk', and is circular iu form. It is 5ft.
6in. hi.t,'h, and oft. 8in. in diameter at the lip, and is placed
on a .scpiare pedestal of modern construction. The handles
are formed of pairs of vine stems, the smaller branches of
which twine round the upper lip, and with drooping
bunches of grapes, form a symmetrical frieze. The lower
rim is covered by two tiger or panther skins, of which the
heads and the forepaws adorn the sides of the vase,
while the hind legs interlace and hang down between the
handles. Arranged along the tiger skins are several heads,
all e.tcept one being those of Sileni, or male attendants of
Bacchus, and the single exception being a female head,
probably that of a Bacchante or Faun, though some have
held that it is a modern renovation representing Lady
Hamilton. Between the heads are thjTsi or bacchic staves
twined round with ivy and vine shoots and litui, or
augural wands, used in taking omens. The uses of the
vase, which holds 163 gallons, have been the theme of
speculation. Many suppose it to have been a vessel
designed to contain wine, mixed with water, and intended
for the centre of a chamber devoted to festive uses, but it
was more probably constructed solely for decorative
])Ui7ioses, and may have formed the ornament of a temple of
Bacchus.
Historic Notes on the Castle.
According to tradition, there was a fortress here in
Roman times, which may have been one of the forts
established by Agricola, a.d. 79, and mentioned by Tacitus.
The ancient name of the town, " Waring wic," or the
village of the Waring tribe, is, however, of Saxon
origin. About 544, Saint Dubritius established his episcopal
seat at All Saint's Church, within the Castle walls. In
1125, this church was united to that of St. Mary, in
the town, and no trace of it remains. In the year 915,
Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great " made a strong
fortification here, called the Doungeon, upon a liill of earth
artiticially rai.sed, near the river side, on the we.st jiart of
the Castle." The fortifications are said to have been
enlarged and strengthened by Turchil, Earl of Warwick, in
the time of the Conqueror. In the reign of Stephen,
Gundreda, Countess of Warwick, widow of Roger de
NeAvburgli, expelled the King's soldiers, and delivered the
Castle to Henrv, Duke of Normandy, afterwards Henry II.
In I'JW, William Mauduit, Earl of Warwick, wlio had
espoused the King's cause against the Barons, was surpriseil
here by an expedition under the command of Sir John
38 8HAEESPE ABE'S LAND.
Giffnrd, governor of Kenihvorth Castle, in the interests
of the rebols. Tl e Earl ami Countess were carried off
prisoners to Kenihvorth, and the walls, with the exception
of the towers, were beaten down. In lliGO, Henry 111.
made the i)lace his headquarters while his anny was being
recruited for the famous siege of Kenihvorth. Some
rebuilding must have taken place in the reign of Edward
II., as (iuy de Beauchamp l)rought Gaveston here a ])risoner
in 131'2. On the death of Guy de Beauchanip, in 1315,
Hugh le Despenser, the royal favourite, obtained the
custody of the Castle, ami entertained Edward II. in
February, 1326. In the reign of Edward III., Thomas de
Beauchamj) rebuilt the " outer walls with divers towers ";
this did not include Guy's Tower, which was the work of
his second son and succe.«sor, also nametl Thomas, at a
cost of £395 OS. 2(\. llenrj- V. came here, in 1417, as the
guest of Ricliard de Beauchamp. Richard Xevil, the stout
Earl of Warwick, the King-maker, who acquired the Castle
in right of his wife, Anne, the heiress of the Beauchamps,
brought Edward IV. here as a prisoner in I-MJU, after
capturing him in his camp at Wolvey, in the north-eastern
part of the county, and subsequently carried him to his
Castle of Middleham. After the death of the King-maker,
the Castle became the property of his son-in-law, George,
Duke of Clarence, who purposed effecting great additions to
the pile, but did not live to complete them. His wife,
Isabel, died here in 1476. Richard III. stayed here
in August, 1483, and again in August, 1484. In
the reign of Edward VI., the Castle was granted
to the Dudley family, and, in the reign of Elizabeth,
•was held by Ambrose Dudley, who entertained the Queen
here in 1572 and 1575. It seems j^robable that Amy
Robsart was a guest here somewhere about the year
1558, as there is a tradition at Moreton Morrell that, while
on a journey, she stayed at the Manor House there. She
was then living at Denchworth, in Berkshire, and her
destination would, therefore, probably l)e the castle of
her brother-in-law. After the death of Ambrose, the Castle
reverted to the Crown, and seems to have fallen into decay.
In 1G05, it was granted to Sir Fulke Greville by King
James I., and is then described as being in a very ruinous
state, the strongest and .<;ecure.st parts being made use of for
a county gaol. Sir Fulke expended £30,000 in repairing and
adorning it, and a])pears to have added the eastern i)art
adjoining the (Ireat Hall, and the western portion, com-
mencing with the State Bedroom. Here he was visited by
o
n
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 39
James I. in 1617, lfil9, 1621, and 1624. In the year 1642,
Robert, Lord Brooke, Sir Fulke's successor, having joined
the Parliamentarian forces, the Castle sustained a short
siege from the Roj-alists, and -was afterwards a strong-
hold of the Parliamentarian party. The Earl of Lindsey
died here after the battle of Edgehill and several Royalist
prisoners were confined here. In IG'Jo, it was visited by
William III. in 1819, by George IV., as Prince Regent, in
1839 by Queen Adelaide, and in 1858, by Queen Victoria,
accompanied by the Prince Consort, on which occasion two
young trees were planted Ity the royal visitors.
The Earldom of Warwick has been held by the following
families: —
Henrj' de Newburgh, of Neubourg, near Evreux, in
Normandy, younger son of Roger de Bellomont, Earl of
Mellent, promoted to the Earldom of Warwick by William I.
De Neicburyh, c. 1086-1242, succeeded by John de Plessetis,
who marrit'd Margery, heiress of the De Xewburghs.
De Plessetis, 1243-1262 succeeded by William ^lauduit,
son of William ilauduit, who married Alice, daughter of
Waleran de Xewburgh, fourth Earl.
Mauduit, 1262-1267, succeeded by William de Beauchamp,
who married Isabel, sister of William Mauduit, and
daughter of Alice, daughter of Waleran de Xewburgh.
De Beauchamp, 1267-1445, succeeded by llichanl Xevil,
wlio married Anne, daughter of Richard de Beauchamp.
Xevil, 1445-1471, succeeded by George, Duke of Clarence,
who married Isabel, daughter of Richard Xevil.
Plaiitayenet, 1471-1499. Interval of 48 years, after which
the title was conferred on John Dudley, descended from
Margaret, eldest daughter of Riciiard de Beauchamp.
Dudleif, 1.547-1589. Interval of 29 years.
liich, 1618-1759. This family was not descended from
the ancient house, and never possessed the estates ; it
became extinct in 1759, upon which Francis Greville, Earl
Brooke, descended from Elizabeth, daughter of Richard do
Beauchamp, was create<l Earl of Warwick.
Greville, 1759 . Sir Eulke Greville came into posses-
sion of the Castle in 16U5. lie was created Baron Brooke
in 1621, and Francis, eigiith Baron, was created Earl Brooke
in 1746.
The Town of Wakwick.
Proceeding from the Castle along Jury Street— so called
from a house in wiiich tiie juries were, in former time.s
impanelled -wc ciinic to Castle Street, at tlie corner of
which is the Court House, built, in 1730, for the use of tho
40 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Corj)oration. Opposite to it is Church Street, at the top of
which, in a commanding position, is St. Mary's Church,
which occupie.s tlie site of a verj- early church, dating from
Saxon times. This church was, in the reign of Ilenrj* 1.,
either very much enlarged or rebuilt by Roger de
Newhurgh, and made Ctillegiate, the church of All Saints,
in the Castle, being incorporated with it. Thomas de
Beaucharap commenced the re-erection of the choir in the
reign of Edward HI., and his son and successor, Thomas
Beauchamp, completed the re-building of the whole church
in 13l»4. On the Mh of September, 1604, a destructive fire
broke out near the West gate of the town, and eventually
consumed the greater part of it. Many of the inhabitants
removed their goods to the church as a place of safety, and
it is said tJiat some partially burnt articles among them set
lire to the interior, as a result of which, the tower, nave, and
transepts, were com]>letely gutted, and their remains had
to be pulled down, the eastern j)art only of the building
being saved. Subscriptions were immediately organised
for the relief of the sufferers, and for the re-building of the
church, the latter work beinjj entrusted to Sir William
Wilson, who carried on the business of a builder at Sutton
Coldtield. The church and tower, from their lofty and
harmonious proj^Mirtions, have, at the first glance, an
imposing appearance, which, however, is unfortunately
dispelled by a nearer inspection of the incongruous medley
of classic aud got hie details which the design embodies. The
Tower consists of three stages, the lowermost resting
upon four arcades, one of which contains the entrance to the
church, and the other three form an open porch to the
street. In the second stage, on the north, south, and west
sides, are Latin inscriptions referring to the foundation,
destruction, and re-editication of the building. The highest
stage is cro■^v^led by a semi-circular, gable-headed parapet,
witli crocketted pinnacles at each angle, capped by vanes.
The summit is reached by a staircase of 162 steps.' The
following are the leading dimensions of the building: —
Length, including choir, 180ft. 6in. ; breadth, 66ft. 4in. ;
length of choir, /7ft. 3in.; breadth. 27ft. 4in.; height of
roof, 42ft. (Un. : height of tower to the top of battlements,
1 The llalU nro ten iu nuniljer, tho first nine beiiiR cast between 1700
and IV'iO bv Abralutm Ru<lhall, of Gloucester, and tho tenth in 1814 by
T. Meara, of Ijondon. The obiniee, every fc^ur hoii™, play an air. which
is changed d.iily at midnight. On Sundaye, The Easter Hymn : Mondays,
flome Sirttt Honu ; Tiiewiays, Jfnn;/ lind : We<lne«day8, Tf'f Blue BdU of
Scotland : Thurwlayg, Th^rc'i not Lucl- a'joot the Hook ; Fridays, Li/t let
u* Cheruh : Saturdays, WarvUkthirt Lad* and Latia.
suaebspbabe's jland. 41
130ft. ; to top of pinnacles, 174ft. Tlie windows of which
there are four on either side of tlie cluircli, are hirge, but
pitiably inartistic, having wlmt luive been appropriately
termed " horse collar lights " in tiieir heads. The parapet 13
decorated at intervals with inconsistent pagan symbols in the
form of stone urns. The interior of the nave, aisles, and tran-
septs present no features of interest. The Organ at the west
end, built by .Swarbrick in 1717, and several times subse-
quently improved and enlarged, is a fine in.strument. In
an alabaster niche on the south side, below the Organ, is a
bust of Walter Savage Landor, the poet, who was born at
Warwick, 30th Januars", 177^'', and ilied at Florence, 17th
September, 1>^64. In the North Transept, on the east side
next to the door, is a Mm-itl Tablet, tojiijed by a divided
cartouche pediment, under which are inci.'ied Brass Effigies
of Thnmait Olicn and Juan his wife. lie is attired in a civic
gowTi. faced with fur. She is in a high bodied gown, with
a kind of scarf round the waist, and a plain cap on her
head. The inscription runs thus: — " Of your charyte give
thanks for the souies of Thomas Oken and Jone his wyfi, on
whose souies Jesus hath mercy, Jesus hatii mercy. Amen.
Remember the charyte for the pore for ever. Ao dui :
mccccclxxiii." Oken was a mercer in the town, boru of
poor parents. He acquired wealth through his industrj',
and left estates of considerable value for tlie endowment of
educatioiuil and other local charities, particulars of which
are set forth in an inscription added to this monument
when it was re-erected. Against the north wall is a
pretentious Marlile Monument to Thomas Hcwett, who died
1737. It consists of a tablet between two three-quarter
columns of the Doric order, topped by a divided compass
pediment, with an urn and books in the division. On each
side, over the pediment, is a mourning cherub. Next to
this is a Monument to William Johnsfun, M.D., who died
1725, and Anyie his wife, who died 17."i3, and left her whole
estate for tlie bt-netit of the local poor. Against tlie west
wall is a Marlilf Monument, with a pujiniiig inscrijition in
Latin, to Francis ILAyuke and his family.' In tlie South
Transept, against tlie east wall, is a Marble Monument to
John N»rtun, dejiuty recorder of the borough, wlio died
1015. North of the entrance to the Beauchanij) Chapel is a
white Marble Slab, bearing the incised brass elllgies of the
I Francis Holyoko was Hector of Southaui, aud publUliixl. in 1008,
a rovisol and oiil»ri,'c«l udition of " Hidcr's dictionary," t<j wliich his noil,
TlmniaK. who woh lUxtor of WhitnnHli, niado groat additioim, wliich were
edit«>d and iiubli»h«d by hiiitou, Cbarlua, in 1677.
42 shakespbahe's lanp.
second Thomas Beauchamp, Karl of Wnrwirk, who died
1401, nnil Maryartt his Countess, who died 140<i. The Karl
is in full armour, with his feet resting on a bear. The
Countess is attired iu a low-hodied gown, over which is a
long mantle fastened at tlie lireast. Tlie liead dress consists
of a caid or cap, the hair falling in ringlets on each side
down to the shoulders. At her feet is a dog, wearing a
collar of hells round the neck. This brass wa.s formerly
fixed to the upper slab of a high tomb, which stood at the
eastern end oi the south aisle, and was destroyed in the
freat fire. Against the south wall is a large and handsome
lonuraent, without date, witli an inscription to Henry
Beaufi'i), of Kmscoto, erected by his daughter. Martha, wif^
of Sir Samuel Garth, M.D. (author of "The Dispensarj" "
and of " The Epilogue to Addison's Cato), to replace one
destroyed by the fire. Against the west wall is a Marble
Monument with a Latin inscrijjtion to William Viner, who
died ir).3i>, and was, for nearly forty years, steward to Fulke,
Lord Brooke.
The Chancel or Choir is stated to have been built by the
second Thomas Beaiichamj) in 1."39l', but from the style of
the east window, and the panel work on the e.\terior of the
east wall, it seems probable that these ])ortioiis were altered
by Richard Beauchamp, who built the adjoining chapel.
The choir is lighted on each side by four four-centre arclied
windows of four lights, continued downwards in lilank
panel work. The east window is of the same design but
larger, consisting of si.x lights, divided by a transom, and is
filled with painted glass of good workmanship, representing
scenes in the life of the Saviour, erected in memory of the
B.et. John B-udier, Vicar, 1815-1872. On each side of the
window are niches for statues. The roof is groined in four
bays, in the centre of each of which is an octagonal panel,
containing an angel bearing a shield with the arms
of the Beauchamps. Flying ribs, springing from the
spaces between the windows, contribute to the support of
the roof in an unusual ami elegant manner. On the south
side, near the Altar, are four Sedilia in the form of recesses
in the stonework ; to the east of these is a piscina. On the
north side of the Altar is a richly groined recess, faced with
three arches, which probably served as a "Holy Sepulchre"
in Passion Week.'
1 Tlie Hdly Sepulchre wn« typicnJ of the tomb, hewn o,it of the rock, in
which the Ixxly of Johuh was laid, and, at Eastor, the IltMurrection of oiu
Lord wan Bolemnly comnuMiionitwl by curtain rfliKi<'>"< ccrenmnie* repre-
MOting tliat event, jwrfonued at this particular »i>ot. On G<xk1 Friday, the
hoct and cruci&x were carried in procession through the church to the north
shakespeabb's land. 43
The liaiulsome Reredos of black ami white marble, the
centre panels of which represent the Nativity, is moilern,
as also are the carved oak stalls. Nearly in the centre of
the south side of the choir is a doorway leadinj? into the
corridor communicating with the Beauchamp Chapel. The
perforated panels, barred with iron, adjoining the doorway,
light a dependency of this chapel. In the midst of the
choir is a high Tomb, bearing the rccumbnit t-ftigies of the
tirst Thomas Beauchamp, Karl of Warwick, founder of the
choir, and of his Countess, Kathenne, daughter of Roger
Mortimer, Earl of March, both of whom died in 1369.
Round the tomb are thirty-six niches, containing figures sup-
posed to represent connections of the house of Beauchamp.
The panels beneath these niches contain small sliields with
coats of arms, now defaced. The Earl is clad in mixed
armour of mail and plate, his feet resting upon a bear,
while his right hand clasps that of his wife. The Countess
wears a robe or gown, confined at the waist by a narrow
girdle, studded with jewels, over which is a long mantle
fastened in front. On her head is a deep reticulated head
dress. Her feet rest on a lamb. The heads in each case
rest on a cushion, supported by a small seated figure. In
front of the Altar are three small Brass Plates, in memory
of Cecilia Ihickerimj, who died 9th April, 163fi, aged 1^.
One of these plates contains an anagram on her luime —
"Mistress Cisseley Puckering, I sleep secure, Christ's my
King." Next to them is an incised Brass inscribed to Thomas
JiouH, who died 9th September, 1G45. On the north side of the
Beauchamp Tomb, between the doors of the Vestry and the
Chapter House, is the grave of WiUiain Pan; .Marquis of
Northampton, i)rother of (^ueen Katharine Parr, who died
at the Priory, October liHth, l.')71, and was buried with all
solemnity, at the cost of (^ueen Elizabeth, on tlie .0th
December following. The reason for this delay is tiius
explained in the Black Book of Warwick:— "This Marc^uesse
80 decessid not the richest man in Englond, nor of sufhcient
living to make his said lady any jointure. It was doubtid
howe and by whom he should lie buryed. Ffor the said
lady had not wlierewth to lieare the chardge, and therfore
order was give that his corps should be enchested and kept
untill the queues pleasure therin might be knowen." No
sidu of tliu chancel, and (lu|HiHite<l in thu i>ej>ulctire ; thu dour of the
■eptilclire wna tlioii shut, ami on that and tho following night, uatchwl by
immonH api»>inti-il for that pnriKiw;, in imitation of thu Holitlurs not to
gnanl tlio b<«ly of Chritit ; anil uarly on Kiuitur morning, tho hoot and
crucifix wero romoTwl with groat Mileninity. tha jirient at tli« uiniu timo
pronouncing the word», ' Surrcxit ; non ut hie' — Bloxam
44 SHAKESPE ABE'S LAND.
monument or inscription marks the spot. Parallel with
the choir, on the north side, are the Vestry, a large vaulted
chamher. and a Corridor, separated from it by a stone screen
of blank panel work about 10ft. lii^di. This corridor
contains, on the south wall, a large Marble Monument, with
a Latin inscription to Francis Parker, wlio was tutor, secre-
tarj% and steward, for nearly forty-five years, to the sons of
Robert, second Lord Brooke, and died 1693. On the west
side, another large Monument, with black marble Corin-
thian columns under a divided pedimental head, com-
memorates Sir Thomas Puckenji(/,Jiarf. ,<\ieii 1636. There are
also Monuments to Jnhn Baijley (died 17'.*-'). Maria Home
(died 1834), and Jane FarniUulieU 1840), all old servants of
the Warwick family. A doorway on the north side of
this corridor communicates with a chamber which was
anciently the Chapter Honse, l)Ut now forms r Mausoleum.
The inner side of it is rectangular, and tie outer, semi-
hexagonal in shape. Around the sides are nine stone seats
under recessed canopies. The centre is occmiied by the
huge and ponderous looking Tomb of Fulke Greville, first
Lord Brooke, who died September 30th, 16iJ8, aged 74. The
monument consists of two stages, each supported by
Corinthian pillars. The upper stage terminates in triangular
pediments, the lower, which is composed of a double arcade,
contains a Sarcophagus on a raised base. Round the verge
of the upper slab is the following inscription, written by
the deceased " Fvlke Grevill, servant to t/veene Elizabeth,
Conceller to King lames, and frend to Sir Philip Sidney.
Trophaj\TU peccati."' The manner of his death is thus
related by Dugdale:— " Delaj-ing to rewanl one Hay ward,
an antient servant, that had spent the most of his time in
attendance upon him, being exy)Ostulated with for so doing,
received a mortall stab in the back, by the same man then
private with him in his bed-chamber at Brook -house * in
London, 3<) Sept., ann. 1628. who, to consummate the
tragedy, went into another room, and ha^•ing lock't the
dore, pierced his own bowells with a swonl. After which
— viz., 27 Oct., the said Lord Brook's body being wrapt
in lead & brought to Warwick, was there solemnly
interred in a vault on the north side the Quire of
S. Marie's Church, under that beautifull monument, erected
by himself." Beneath the choir is The Crypt, to which
access is obtained through the floor of the corridor, or by a
doorway on the north side. The Crj-pt is divided longitu-
* A trophy of sin. * Stood on the sjta of the present Biooke Str««t,
Holbom.
shakespeahe's laxp. 46
dinally by four piers, tlio three westerraost of tlio.-e are
Norman, with cushion shaped capitals, and are relics of
the church of Roger de Newburgh. early in the 12th Century.
The eastermost pier is octagonal, in the Decorated Style of
the 14th Century, and is evidently an addition made by
Thomas de Beauchamp. A portion of an old Cucking .Stool,
for the punishment of disorderly women and scolds, is
E reserved here. The room under the vestry, formerly
nown as the Friar's Kitchen, now serves as a burial place
for the Warwick family.
The Chapel of Our Lady or Beanchamp Chapel was founded
by tlie will of Richard IJeanchiimii. Karl of Warwick, as a
Mortuary Chajiel for himsnlf, and ranks as one of the finest
structures of its kind. The building was commenced in
1443, and finished in 146^4, but was not con.?ecrated till 1476.
The cost of it wa.s £2,481 4s. 7*d., equivalent to i;4(.i.(H>() in
the present day. The exterior walls and Imttresses are
covered with panelled tracerj-, and the apex of the ^able at
the east end is occupied by a canopied niche, containing in
the centre a representation of the Virgin carrying the
infant Christ, and, on each side of her, figures of Simeon
and Anna, the prophetess, the two latter being rfKstorations
executed about 1780. The entrance is by a doorway in the
south transept, which conducts to the cha])el by a descent
of a dozen steps, the floor being much lower than that of
the church, OT\-ing to the absence of a cr\'i)t beneath it. On
each side of the doorway is a canopied niche with a bracket
beneath, both ornamented with minuti; tabeniaclf^ work.
The hollow moulding above contains foliage and the ragged
staff, the cognizance of the Beauchara})s. Above this is a
shield with tlie Beauchamp arms, sup] )orted on each side by
the bear and ragged staff. This entraiife has been stated to
to liave been designed and carved by a jioor masnn, of
Warwick, in the year 1704, but it is manifestly too finished
in its composition to have been anything bu^acojpy ora
restoration. Inside, over the doorway, is a small gnllerj',
intended, according to the covenant for the building, for an
organ loft, but possessing no visible means of access. The
north and south walla are covered wifli ])aiiel work tracorj',
the part underneath the windows taking th^ form of
canopied niches, with subjacent brackets. The juinelling
of the west wall is surmounted by a hollow moulding,
containing well sculptured rei)resentations of animals and
foliage, among them l)eing an animated carving of a lion
attacking a hart. On each side of the cliapel are oak stalls,
the standards of which have carved finials. The elbows of
46 SUAKBSPEAHE'S LAND.
the seats are efifectively carved witli figures of lions,
grifiiiKS, and muzzled Ijeurs. The Altar-piece represents the
annunciation of the Vir^'in, sculptured in has-relief in the
year 173o, by a Mr. Collins, of Warwick, from a design by
Lightoler. Thougli not harmonizing with the arcliitecture
of the chapel, it is a meritorious work; but the canopy
above is an indiffurent com])Osition. The East Window
deserves special examination for tin- curious and intiTesting
style of its ornamentation. Tlie vfrtical mullions of tluj
principal divisions, as well as the jambs and the moulding
of the arch, are tilled with canopied niches, containing
upwards of tliirty gilt and painted statues, amongst which
are St. Alic/ui'l, St. Catherine, St. Man/aret, and St. Barbara,
with tlieir emblems, as well as conventional delineations of
virtues, principalitits, and jjowers. On eacli side of the
window are niches with elegant canopies of tabernacle
work, now destitute of images. The painted glass in this,
as in the otiier windows, has suffered from maltreatment.
It formerly contained representations of tiie founder, with
his wives on each side, and his son and four daughters
underneatli, in kneeling attitudes. Of these, only the body
of liichard Beaiic/iaitip remains, with a tabard over his
armour, the head being taken from a female figure; of the
fourteen other ligures, the only ones capable of identification
are St. Albaii, in urnuiur. witli a tuliard and mantle, carrying
in his rigid hand a staff, and in his left a penthouse covered,
cross ; St. Thomas, <>f C'aiiterhury, attired in a white alb and
purple tunic, with dalmatic and cope, having a mitre on
his head, and a crozier in his hand ; and St. John, of
BridUnfitun, as an abbot, bareheaded, and carrying a
fiastoral staff with the crook turned inwards. Among other
ragments, the head of the Saii' ur may be distinguisiied,
wearing the crown of thorns. The bear and ragged staff
are introduced alternately in each compartment. In the
up])er and smaller lights cherubim are represented. The
general effect of the window is brilliant and impressive in
a high degree. The heads of tiie other windows are
filled with unconnected fragments, jirincipally representing
angels playing on different musical instruments. The
doorway on tlie north of tiie altar leads into a vestry, now
utilised as a library, consisting of a collection of old works
on Divinity. The Roof is groined in three bays, the
groining being of siicli an intricate character that the
whole roof has the a-^pect of being covered with network.
The three central compartments contain the following
subjects: — (1) The Virgin ^lary as Queen of Heaven, bear-
shakespeake's land. 47
ing tlie sceptre and globe, a nimbus round her bead, and
the moon at her feet (2) A Shield, bearing the founder's
arms underneath the helmet and crest, encircled with a
coronet. (3) The De Nfwl)urt,'li Arms, borne by a lialf
length angel. On tiie north side of the chapel, opposite the
tomb of the founder, is a flight of si.\ steps, leading to a
doorway which opens into a small lobliy with a panelled
stone roof, containing some ancient stall seats. On the
opposite side is a doorway leading into the choir of the
church. On the west side is a doorway, conducting to
another lobby, with a jjiinelled roof of different design
to the last ; at the end of this lobby is a newel staircase
to the roof. On the ea.st side of the loblty is a small
Chantry Chapel, with a roof ricldy groined witli fan tracery,
composed of cones and semi-cones, covered witli foliated
panel work. On each side of tlie east window, which is of
two lights, is a highly wrought canopied niche, still
retaining the iron clamp by which the image within was
attached. On the south side is a screen of open panel work
in seven divisions, and fixed against this, near the altar, is
a small and remarkalily rare form of Piscina, witli an
angular shaft formed wholly of wood. On an old chest on
the floor are four Heraldic Earred Helmets of the latter
part of the 16th century, constructed for the purjiose of
forming part of funeral achievements, fixed above the
monuments of deceased knights. This little chapel was
probably intended for the performance of low mass, the
principal altar in tlie adjoining chajiel being reserved for
tlie celebration of high mass. ()n the iiortli side, four much
worn steps conduct to a compartment which looks into the
choir througli some perforated panel work. This proltably
served as a ])rivate closet or pew from wliich members of the
Warwick family could take part in the office of high
mass. At tiie east end of this is a hagioscope or oblique
opening in the wall, through wliicli the elevation of the
Host at high mass might l)e witnessed.
Among tile most striking features of this splendid chapel
are tlie grand tombs wliich it contains. Tlie earliest and
most rcsjileiidi'iit of tliese nionuinciits is the High Tomb of
the Founder, Earl Richard Beauchamp, which stands nearly
in the centre of the building. It is conijjosed of grey
Purbeck marble, on which his effigy, in gilt brass, rests,
encompassed by a hearse or framework for sujiporting the
pall. The sides and en<l of the tomb are divid(Ml into
compartments containing cano])ied niches, flanked on each
side by sunk panel work, which is surmountefl by smaller
48 SHAKESPE ABE'S LAND.
niches. The chief niches, whidi are fourteen in uuniber,
contuin figures called weepers aii<l mourners, forged in
latten or brass and gilt. Tlie smaller niches, eighteen iu
number, contuin figures of augels, similarly con-structed,
and carrying scrolls in their iiands, on which is inscribed —
"Sit l>eo laus et gloria : defunctis misericordia." ' The male
weejiers are attired in a mantle or mourning habit, the
females in low bodied gowns, with initn-d lieatl dresses and
short mourning tijjpets hanging lieliind. Commencing at
the head of the tomb, the figures represent tlie followinj^
personages connected with the deceased: — (1) Cicely,''
wife of Henry Beauchamp, carrying a scroll. {'2) Henry
Beauchamj),^ holding a liook. (3) Kichard Neville,* Earl of
Salisliury, holding a scroll. (4) Edmund Beaufort,' Diike
of f>c)merset, liolding a liook. (."j) Humjiiirey Stafford,
Duke of Buckintrham. (H) John Talbot,' t lie great Earl of
Shrewsbury-, holding a book. (7) Kichard Neville,^ Earl of
Warwick (tiie King-maker), holding a book. (8) George
Neville,' Lord Latimer, liolding a chaplet of beads. (9)
Elizabeth," wife of Lord Latimer, holding a rosary. (10)
Ann,' wife of the King-maker, holding her right hand up to
her chin, her left holding a rosarj'. (11) Margaret," wife of
John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, holding a scroll. (12)
Ann. wife of Humphrey Staft'ord, iJuke of Buckini;ham,
holding a rosarv. (13) Eleanor," wife of Edmund Beautort,
Duke of Somerset, holding a book. (14) Alice," wife of
Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, holding a rosarv in both
hands. The elligA' of the Earl is ro])resented in full armour.
Round the left leg, a little below the knee, is the garter.
The head, which is bare, lies on the tilting helm ; the feet
rest against a muzzled bear and a grillin. Tiie hands are
not joined in prayer, but are uplifted in an unusual position.
The hearse over the tomb Ls constructed of six hoops,
connected by poles, four of which have the arms of the
Earl at each end, and the central i)ole has the arms of
France and England at its eastern end, and the badge of the
garter at the other. \t each corner of the tomb are poles,
with moulded ends, which probably sustained the mortuary
lights burning round the tomb. The pall, which was of
crimson velvet with a deep gold fringe, was removed about
the end of the last century, owing to the injury it occasioned
to the niches, by being drawn up and down when the
monument was shown. tXirther aisfigurement has unfor-
iTi>G<Hlbo praisu ami glury : to the departod uiorcy. ' Daughtci"-
In-law. 3 Soil * Father of dnugliter-in-law. * Son-in-lAW.
• Daughter. ' Mother of daiigbter-iu-law.
shakespeabe's land. 49
timately been caused l>y the plaster casting, taken for tho
Crystal Palace several years ago. The followiug inscription,
on two narrow plates, runs round tJie verge of the tomb,
plentifully interspersed with the bear and ragged stalf : —
" Preieth devoutly for the .Sowel whom god assoLlle' of one
of the moost worshipful Knightes in his dayes of monhode '■*
& conning ■* Richard 13eauchamp, late Earl of Warrewik, lord
Despenser of Bergeveuuy & of mony other greto lordships
whos body resteth here vnder this tumbe in a fulfeire
vout' of stone set on the bare rooch ' thewhuch visited with
longe siknes in the Castel of Koan *■ therinne decessed ful
cristenly the last daj- of April the yer of ouro lord god
A mccccx-xxii, he being at that tyme Lieutenant geu'al and
governer of tlie Koiahue of ffraunce and of the Ducliie of
Normandie by sullicient Autorite of oure i^ou'aigne lord the
Kiug Harry the VI., the whuch body with grete deliberacou'
and ful worshipful comluit 13i tsee And by loud was broght to
Warrewik the iiii day of October the yer aboueseitle and
was leide with ful Soleune exequies' in a feir chest made of
stone in this Chirche afore the west dore of this Chapel
according to his last wille and Testament therin to reste til
this Chapel liy him devised i'his lief were made Al
thewhuche Chap'.l founded on the Kooch '' And alle the
membres therof his E.xecutours dede fully make and
ApparaUle** By the Auctorite of his Seide last Wille and
Testament And therafter By the same Auctorite Theydide
Translate fful worshipfully the seide Body into the vout
abouseide, Honnrt-d be god therfore.''
Again.st the north wall of the chapel, enclosed by an iron
railing, is the gorgt'ous Monument of Eobert Dudley, Earl of
Leicester, which strikingly u.xliitiits thu dtradeucf in art
which had takt-n place since the date of the erection of the
tomb of the founder. The whole structure has been aptly
termed " a mountain of confectionery." The tomb, on which
lie the recumbent eiHgies of the JmitI and Countess, j)roject8
considerably from the wall. The front of it, which is divided
into three comitartmeuts, contaiui*, in the centre, the
armorial bourings of the Earl. At the back of the tomb is
a n)i*to.sive superstructure, sustaintnl by two Corinthian
coluLuus at each en<l, under wliich is a semi-circular recess,
containing a t^tblet with a long Latin inscription, and
decoriited with si.xteen funeral penoncels, or snuill Hags,
chargKi ■with arra.s. In the centre of the top of the
• Ab«olTe, O. Fr. oAsniUr. 2 Biaverj'. ' Leoruitifi;, A.S. cunnan,
to know. * Full /air vault. ^ Uock. " Houun. ' Fuuoriil litea,
Lat. tzequUr. * Provide, O. Fr. aparcilUr.
60 shakespeabe's land.
monument is an escutcheon, cl)nr{i;ecl with the aniiorial
bearings of Leicester, supported by two lions, lieneath which
is the motto, " Droit et loyal." On each side are arched
canopies, containing small figures rejjresenting the virtues;
these canopies have plain tii])ering tinials. The whole
monument is covered with elaliorati- ornamentation, and is
polj-chrnmatieally painted. The efligy of the Karl is on the
front of tile tomb. He is rcjjresented bareheaded, with
mustachios and a spade beard, and is clad in richly
ornamented armour. Over the corslet is the mantle of the
Order of the Harter, and over this again is a tii)i)et of fur.
A collar of scallop sliells hangs from the neck, from which
is suspended tlie jewel of the Order of St. Michael of l-Vance,
founded by Louis XL, and considered the noblest of the
French orders.' Below the left knee is the Order of the
Garter, the insignia of which are also embroidered on the
mantle over the left slioulder. The feet rest upon gauntlets,
and the whole figure is painted to resemble life. The effigj'
of the Countess lies on a slab slightly higher than that of
the Earl. Round the back of the bead she wears a jewelled
circlet with the coronet. A ruff appears al)out the neck.
The dress consists of a high and closely fitting gown, over
which is a scarlet mantle with a tipj)et of ermine. At the
corner of the tomb is a wooden tablet, containing some
lines "upon the death of the excellent and pious Lady
Lettice," by Sir Gervas Clifton. They are, however, destitute
of literary merit. The in,scription sets forth the titles of
the Earl, and that the monument was erected by his wife,
through a sense of conjugal love and fidelity. The Earl
died on the 4th of Septemt)er, 1588, aged 56; the Countess
on the 25tli of Deceml)er, 1634, aged 94.
To the soutli-west of the memorial of the founder is the
High Tomb of Ambrose Dudley, tlie good Earl of Warwick.
Eacli side of tlie tomb is divided into three compartments,
containing escutcheons with inscriptions. At the head of
the tomb is an escutcheon cliarged with the quarterings of
Dudley, with the motto " Omnia temp' liabet."* At the foot
is another escutcheon with the quarterings of Dudley
empaling Russell, under the former lieing the motto
"Omnia tenij)' habet," and under the latter "Che Sara
Sara."' The Earl wears a coronet on his head, and is attired
in a gilt and embossed suit of armour. His head lies on a
' The E.irl was invested with thi« Order in January, 15S5, by the
emiHHi-iry nf Oh.irlcH IX. > Time hiui all things, i.e., all things yield to
tim». ' What will bo, will be.
SHAKESPEABES LAND. M
mat rolled up, and his feet rest upon a muzzled bear.
Below the left knee he wears the Order of the Garter, the
insignia of which are also embroidered on the mantle over
the left shoulder. On tlie ujjper part of the tomb is the
following inscription: — " Ileare under this tombe lieth the
corps of the L. Ambrose Duddeley, who, after the deceases
of his elder brethereu without issue was soune and heir
to John Duke of Northuml)erlande, to whom Q:
Elizabeth, in ye first yeare of her reigne, gave the ilanor
of Kibworth Beauchamp in the county of Leyc : to be helde
by ye service of l)eing pantler ' to y Kings l^ Qvenes of
this Realme at their Coronations, which oliice and manor
his said father and other his ancestors Erles of Warr :
helde. In the second yeare of her reigne, y«^ said
Qvene gave him the office of Mayster of the Ordinnvnce.
In the fowrtli yeare of her sayd reigne, slie created him
Baron Lisle and Erie of Warwyk. In the same yeare she
made him her Livetenant Generall in Normandy, and
dvringe the tyme of his service there he was chosen Knight
of ye Xoble rder of ye Garter. In the TAvelvth yeare of
her reigne ye said Erie & Edward L : Clinton L :
Admerall of England, were made Livetenantes Generall
joinctely and severally of her ila^-ies army in the north
partes. In the Thirteenth yeare of her reigne, the sayd
Qvene bestowed on him ye office of Chief Bvtler of England,
and in the xvth yeare of her reigne he was sworne of her
Pre'S'j-e Covnsell. Who departinge this lief wtbovt issve
ye xxi. day of Eebrvary, 1589- at Bedford Howse.^neare the
city of London, from whence, as himself desired, his cori)8
was conveyed and interred in this place neare his brother
Robert E: of Leyc : ifc others his noble ancestors, w^h was
accomplished by his last and welbeloved wife ye Lady
Anne, Covntes of Warr: who in further testimonj' of her
faythfvll love towardes him bestowed this Monvme't as a
remebrance of him."
Against the south wall of the chapel near the east end is
tile Monument of Leicester's Infant Son, Koliert, Baron of
Denliigh, wIk) was between three and four years of age at the
time of his deatli. It consists of a high tomb on which rests
the etligy of the child, 3ft. 6in. in length. An ornamental
circlet IS bound round the forehead, in which the cinquefoil,
the Leicester Badge, is distinguishable. The dress consists
1 Keepor of the pantry. 3 Hb was then 61 years of age. 3 Uedfuixl
Houie, strand, wan tlio town Luuho of the Earls of Bo<lfor(I. It »tooil
on tho north side of the Mtranil on the site of llie pruiicnt ijouthauip-
ton iitra«t, nud was taken down iu 1704.
52 SHAE£8PEABES LAND.
of a rich pnwn reaching to the feet, and buttoned to the
waipt, wliic'li is girded by a sash. Tliis gown is ornamented
with tleurs de lis, cinquefoils, and ragged staves. Hound
the neck is a rich falling collar of lace, and the feet rest
against a muzzled bear. It is said that the unfortunate
chilli was deformed, and the effigj" appears to hear out the
statement, as the head is verj' large, the back is slightly
bowfd or hunched, and the right leg a])i)ears to be shorter
than the other. On the front of the tomb is the following
inscription:— "Heere rasteth the body of the noble Impe^
Robert of Dvdley bar' of Denbigh, sonne of Robert Erie of
Leycester, nephew and heire vnto Ambro.se Erie of Warwike,
bretherne, bothe son'es of the mightie Prince lohn, late
Dvke of Northvniberlaud, that was covsin and heire
to S"" .lohn Grey Viscont Lysle, covsin and heire to
Sr Thomas Talbot V'iscont Lysle, nephew and heire vnto
the Lady Margaret Covntesse of Shrewsbvrv, the eldest
davghter and coheire of the noble Erie of Warwike, Sr.
Richard Beavchamp heere enterrid, a childe of greate
parenta^'e, but of farre greater hope and towardnes,* taken
irom this transitory ^iito the everlastinge life, in his tender
age, at Wansted, in Essex, on Sondaye, the 19 of Ivly, in
the yere of ovr Lorde God, 1584. Beinge the xxvith yere
of the haj)py reigne of the most virtvovs and (todly Princia
Qveent' Elizabeth : and in this place laj-ed vp emonge his
noble avTicestors, in the ass\Ted hope of the generall
resvrrection."
On the north wall, over the doorway leading to the lobby
is a Tablet to the memon,- of Lady Katherine Levexon, widow
of .*^ir Richard Leveson, of Trentham, in the county of
Stafford. Knight of the Bath, daughter and co-heir of Sir
Robert Dudley, by his wife Alicia, daughter of Sir Thomas
Leigh, of Stonelelgh, and granddaughter of Robert Dudley
Earl of Leicester. The inscription sets forth that she did,
by her last Will and Testament, bearing date xviii®.
December, lrt73, bequeath forty x^'^unds per annum, issuing
out of her manor of Foxley, in the county of Northampton,
for the perpetuid support of the chapel and preservation of
the monuments in tneir proper state.
The ('ha])el suffered from the iconoclastic zeal of Colonel
Purefoy, who on the 14th June, 1642, at the head of a hand
of Parliamentarians, entered it and did much mi.schief.
From the Church the visitor should retrace his stei)8
down C hurch Street to High Street, which will lead him
1 From the low Ijitin impottu, a graft, formerly uaed in the aense of
kIod. offspriDg. ^ Tiactability.
shakespeahe's land. 53
direct to the Leycester Hospital, -wliicli Ptnnds at the "^est
end of tlie town. Tliis remarkably tine specimen of half-
timbered construction was originally the hall of the united
guilds of St. George and Holy IVinity, and seems to have
been erected in the reign of ilenry VI. At the time of the
dissolution, the Master and Brethren gave the hall to the
burgesses of Warwick for a Burgess Hall, the chapel over
the gate being used as a school. The Karl of Leicester
having determined to found a hospital for the reception of
certain poor people, signified his desire that this liuilding
should be bestowed on him for the purpose, and on the 6th
of November, 1571, the Bailifif and Burgesses agreed to
pre-sent it to him. On the :26th December following, a deed
of gift was prepared, and ordered to be sent up to the liarl
as a new year's gift. The meetings of the burgesses were
thereupon transferred to the Shire Hall, and the school was
established over the East Gate. The design and scope of
the Hos])ital, which was to accommodate twelve men,
besides the Master, is thus indicated by Dugdale. The
inmates were to be " impotent persons, not having above
5 li. per an. of their own, and such as either had lieen or
should be maimed in the warrs in the said Qs. service, her
heirs and successors, especially under the conduct of the
said Earl or his lieirs, or had been servants and tenants to
him and his heir.s, and bom in the counties of Warw. or
Glouc, or having tlieir dwelling there for five years before:
and in case there happen to be none such hurt in the warrs,
then other poor of Kenilworth, Warwick, Stret ford-super-
Avon, in this county, or of Wotton under Edge, or Erlingham,
in Gloucestersh. to be recomended by the Minister and
Churchwardens where they last had tlieir aboad ; which
poor men are to have liveries (viz. : gowns of blew
cloth, with a ragged .*taff embroydered on the left sleeve),
and not to go into the town without them." The revenues
of the IIos]jital are derived from estates. As both Kobert
Dudley and his bi other Ambrose left no acknowledged
children, their sist -r Marj', wife of Sir Ilenrj'^ Sidney,
l)ecame the represintative of their interests, and her
descendant. Lord de L'isle and Dudley, of Penshur.-t Place,
Kent, e.xercises the right of api)oiiiting the Master and
Brethren. By an Act of I'arlianu'iit passerl in Lsl.3, the
salary of the Master is fixed at £4n(), and t]w })ayments to
the brethren at £S0 each, tlie master being providi d with
a residence, and the brethren having separate ajiartments
each, cousi.sting of a bed-room, sitting-room, and ])antrj',
in addition to the use of a common kitchen, and the
54 SHAKESPEAHES LAND.
services of a cook and housekeeper. The badges worn on
the po\vi\s are of silver, and, with one e.xception, are those
originally provided. The e.xception is a modern reproduction
necfssitated liy the theft of a Imdge many years ago.
The building, which stands on a terrace aluive the
roadway lineil by lime trees, is approached through an
arohid gateway, over which is the inscription " Ho.'spitivm
Coliegiatvm Koberti Dvdlii Comiti.s Leycestriic," nanked
by the date 1571. ami having tlie Uudh'v device, a double
tailfd lion ranijiaiit in thi- left .'ipandril, and the Sidney
device, a pheon or barbed dart in the otht-r. Tlie gables of
the roof have carved barge boards with " hiji-knobs " or
finials, and a large lozenge-shaped sun dial with the initials
K.K. is conspicuous cm tlw front, which is also decorated
witii thirteen shields charged with the annorial bearings of
various families connectecl with the founder, the most noble
being over tlie archway which leads to the inner quad-
rangle. The archway has a picturesque overhanging gabled
story with the date 1571. Over the entrance is the bear
and ragged statf between the initials R.L., and below this
the motto " Droit et Loyal." The jambs are embellished
with scrolls containing the texts, " Peace be to this House "
and " Praise ye the Lord." On entering The Quadrangle,
the rich effect of the ])argeting and carved bargi> boards of
the gables on the north side attracts the eye, the gables
being terminated with figures of white bears gambolling
with poles in various attitudes. This side is occupied by
the Master's Lodge, prominent on the front of which are
coloured carvings of the bear and ragged staff, the
Leycester crest, and the porcupine, the crest of the Sidneys,
running beneath is the text "Honour all men; love the
brotherhood ; fear God ; and honour the King." On the
east side is a cloisteral corridor, leading at one end to the
kitchen and at the other to the Master's Lodge. Above
this, again a]tj)roached by a flight of steps from the outside
is another corridor. At the top of the stairs are the
remains of the old Guild Chamber, now divided into rooms
for the brethren. In one of the spandrils of the framework
of the roof is the red rose of Lancaster, which .seems to
show that the building was erected in the reign of Henry
VL On the west side is the old lianquetting Hall, and on
the .south and west are the rooms of the brethren. The
exterior of the quadrangle is ornamented with the
quarterings of the Karl of Leycester's arms, emblazoned
on 18 sejjarate shields.' The Banquetting Hall on the
'The Robiartahield is cuiispicuuiu by itaabitunco.
SHAKESPEAKES LANlL OO
left is HOW unfortunatelj' degraded into a laundry and a
receptacle for coals. The roof timbers, which are of .Sjianish
chestnut, were formerly elaborately carved in the spandrils
as may be seen from the solitary example which still
survives in the lower part of tlie hall. At the south end
is a tablet with the following inscription :— ".Memorandum
that Kiuf^ James the First, was right nobly entertained at
a supper in this hull, by the Honourable ^^ir Fulk Urevile,
Chancellor of the Exchequor, and one of his .Majesties most
honourable Privy Council upon the fourth day of
September, .\nno. Dom., 1617. God save the King." The
upper part of the hall containing the minstrel gallery is now
cut off, and forms the drawing room of the Master's House.
The endmost tie beam of the roof of this severed portion i.s
surmounted by open panel work. In the left spandril is a
red rose, round which a serj)ent trails amongst acanthus
leaves; in the right spandril is a yellow rose within a
double square, and another smaller rose below. In the
centre of the second beam is a l)oss carved with foliage.
Above it is a niche in which Dudley appears to have
placed the bear and ragged staff, but without doubt it
previously contained a figure of a saint, probalily the Virgin
and child, as the boss bears the inscription l.H.S. the
spaces al)ove and at the side of the beam are lilled with
panel work. The third beam has a yellow rose on the outer
edge of the brace amongst large foliage, the op])Osite side
being ornamented with acanthus leaves and berries.
On the right of the quadrangle is the Kitchen, wliich
contains some ancient settles and an old oak table. .Vmong
the other contents are: A black oak cabinet from
Kenilworth Castle ; an old Saxon chair; the chair in which
King James I. sat when hesu})ped witli Sir Fulke (irevilie ; a
portion of a curtain from Cumiior Hall, said to have been
worked by Amy Kobsart; the Ijottom portion of Lord
Levcester's will, signed " R. Leycestere"; a pair of
halberds from Kenilworth; the King of Dahomey's State
execution sword; an old mace; and some old copper
tankards of the last ci-ntury.
Retracing our steps to the outer terrace, a flight of steps
conducts us to The Chapel dedicated to St. James, which
stands over the West (Jate of the town, and is ajipropriated
to the use of the Hospital. The tower of the present
edifice was probably iiuilt by Thomas de lieaueharap
towards the close of the 14th century as the embattled
parapet Itears his arms. The Hying buttressfs on tiie south
side are modern additions, made in 1SG3, fi»r the purpose
56 shaeespeabe's land.
of strengthening tlie building. The Chapel wa^i
thorouglily restored in tlie year 1863 when n number of
tasteless inuovutioiis of the 18th century were removed.
The fiist window of tive-lights is tille<l with stained glass,
by Clayton and Bell, containing artistic representations of
the Saviour and the Apostles. Midway across the Chapel
is a finrly carved oak screen, within which are the stalls of
the officers and brethren. By the side of the altar are two
ancient oak chairs j)re.SHiited in 1863. In the north-west
angle of the west ( ud, an old oak door opens on a newel
staircase, which leads upwards to the roof and downwards
to a muninifnt room over the gateway. Two old Jacobean
stools which stand here are used for supporting the coffins
of the brethren. The Gateway beneath the Chapel is built
on the sandstone rock, and is strongly vaulted, it forms
part of t lie fortifications erected in the 12th century, the
iron stanchions of the gate being still visible in the walls.
From the Terrace of the Chapel there is a line view
embracing llinington Hill and the Cotswold Hills.
At the back of the Hospital is the Garden, divided into
equal jiortions for the master and brethren. It contains a
fine old Norman arch, discovered during the repairs of the
Chapel, and an Kgyi)tian vase, which at one time
surmounted a Nilometer, and was formerly in the greenhouse
in the grounds of Warwick Castle, from whence it was
removed to make way for the Warwick Vase, and presented
to the Hospital by George, second Karl of Warwick.
In the Market-place is The Museum, established in 1836,
and containing a good collection of British Birds, anionjj
which are scarce .specimens of the Hobby and Merlin, killed
in the neighbourhood. The local paleontological collection
of the Early Mesozoic period is also noteworthy ; it includes
specimens of the Ictliyosaurus, found at (irafton and
Wilnecote ; and a remarkably fine example of the Plesio-
saurus. discovered at the latter place. There are also
exam])les of the footstejjs of the Cheirotherium, from
AVhitley, near Henley-in-Arden ; and several of the Laby-
rinthodon, from Rowington and Shrewley, besides 8i)ecimen8
of Fossil Wood, found at Allesley and Coventry. In an
upper room are fragments of a Roman Sepulchral Um,
found at Snitterfield ; ancient British Bronze Swords from
Meriden, and a Saxon Fibula of gilt bronze, found together
with a crystal perforated knob, at Kmscote.
In Northgate Street, leading northwards from St. Mary's
Church, is the County Hall, constructed, in 1776, for the
Courts f)f Justice, and frequently used for couuty meetings
Shakespeare's land. 67
and balls. It adjoins the Old Gaol, which is now occupied
by the Militia Statf, to w^hose uses it has been adapted.
A little beyond the end of this street, on a gentle
eminence, is The Priory, formerly dedicated to St. Sepulchre,
founded, as a Mnnasterj' for Canons regular, liy Henry de
Newburgh, first Earl of Warwick, and completed by his son,
Roger. At the time of the dissolution, it was granted to one
Thomas Hawkins, a trusted retainer of John Dudley, Duke
of >'orthuml)erland, who was popularly known by the
sobriquet of the Fisher, because his father sold fish byVetail
at the Market Cross of Warwick, llawkins pulled down
the ancient Monastery and liuilt the present mansion, which
was completed about 1565. In punning allusion to his
own name, he bestowed on it the title of " Ilawkin's Nest or
Hawk's Nest," partly on account of its being situated in a
pleasant grove of Elms. The house contains a lofty hall,
lighted by tall windows, a handsome oak panelled dining
room, and an old oak staircase. The north front ]ireserve8
its old features, but the south was rebuilt about 1750, in the
stylo then prevalent. In September, 1571. the Earl of
Leicester spent several days at the Priory, and on tlie 28th
of October following, the Marquis of Northampton, brother
to Queen Katliarine Parr, die<l here. On tiie 17th of
August, 1572, (^ueen Elizaljeth came from Keiiilwortli and
surprised the Earl and Countess of Warwick at Supper in
the house, and sat down with them, afterwards visiting "the
good man of the house, who, at that time, was grievously
vexed with the gout." Hawkins accumulated a vast
amount of propci-ty, partly by grants, and jmrtly by
purchase. lie died in 157*), and in less than four years
afterwards, his son, Edward, had dissipated the whole of
his property, and sold the Priory to Serjeant Puckering,
Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, whom he endi-avoiirod to
cheat by a fraudulent conveyance. For this he was
pro.secuted in the Star Chamber, and he eventually ended his
days in the Fleet Prison. In 1709, the ])ro]ierty was
I)urchased by Henry Wise, who had lieen superintendent of
the Royal Ciardens at Hampton Court, umler (^leen Anne,
and, in 1848, it was acquired by tlie (ireat Western Hallway
Company, in connection with their extension to IJirniingham,
and subsequently sold to the late Mr. Thomas Lloyd, a
partner in the well-known Birmingham banking firm. It
is now occupied }>y Mr. Sampson Lloyd, Jiinr.
Extending westwards from the eml of Northgate Street
is the Saltiflford. The site on which the Warwick Brewery
now stands, in this locality, was, on the 2nd of April, 1781,
56 SHAKESPEAnE'S LAND.
the scene of the execution of Captain Donnellan, for the
murder of liis brother-in-law, Sir Theodosius Boughtou, at
Lawford Hall. lu July, 1825, a disgraceful so-called
combat took place on the same spot between a tame lion,
namt'il Nlto, belonging to Wombwell's Menagerie, and six
bull-ilogs, in which the lion was held to have neen worsted.
Subsequently another lion of ferocious temper, named
Wallace, was baited, and quickly nuiimed all the dogs
slipped at him. At tlie lower end of the fcfaltisford, next to
the (ireen ilan public house, are the remains of the Church
of St. Michael, founded about the end of the reign of Henry
I., and rebuilt in the 14th century. The walls, whicli
measure 3^ft. in length, by 18ft.' in breadth, are still
standing, and the east window, though blocked up, may
yet lie traced, though the building has been converted into
a blacksmith's shop.
A unique feature of Warwick is the Atelier of Mr. Koidall,
the celel>rated wood carver, some of whose work decorates
the dining room of the House of Commons. Nothing can
exceed the rare and delicate beauty of execution of the
birds and foliage which grace his studio in Chapel Street,
with many other types of his artistic skill.
Tn the west of the town is the Common, which also forms
the Raceground, on which races are held in the Spring and
Autumn. The course, which measures nearly two miles in
circuit, is considered one of the best in the kingdom.
There is a lofty Grand Stand for spectators, with every
convenience for racing purposes attached to it.
ROUTE 4.— LEAMINGTON TO LONG ITCIIINGTON,
VIA LILLINGTON, CL'BBINGTON, AND OEFCIIUKCH.
The villages of Lillington, Cubbington, and Oflfchurch may
each be reached by pleasant footpaths, commencing at the
top of thf Holly VValk.
Lillington lies at a distance of a little more than a mile
from the Parish Church of Leamington, along the road to
Eugby. The church consists of a fine battlemented tower
and nave of the 14th Century, a chancel, the western part
of which is of the same period, and the eastern, a modern
addition of the year 1884. and north and south aisles and
a south porch, erected in 1847. There are two Norman
doorways, one on the south of the chancel, and the other
on the north of the chancel aisle, removed from an ancient
vestrj- ; there is also a blocked-up low side window in the
south chancel wall. The modern reredos of Caen stone and
Devonshire marble, T^-ith a carving of "The Last Supper"
in the centre, is handsome, and so likewise is the jjulpit,
which is of similar matei-ials. In the churchyard, facing
the vestrj", at the east end of the north aisle, is a tombstone
with the following inscription :— In memory of William
Treen, who died 3rd Febry., 1810, aged 77 years."
I Poorly liv'd and Poorly Dy'd
Poorly Buried, and no one Cry'd.
Treen, who was known as " Old Billy Treen, the miserd" is
said to have been a road scraper, wlio lived miserably by
begging potato peelings and turni])S from the farmers,' anil
unsuspectedly amassed money, which was discovered when
he died.
A little more than a mile from Lillington, tli(> road
branches off to the right to Cnbbington Church, which
8tan<ls on a rising ground, and consists of nave, chancel,
north and south aisles, south j)orcli, an<l western tower.
The lower part of the tower is of Early 13tli Century date,
■with a .southern arcade consisting of massive circular
pillars of 12th Century work ; thn ujiper j)art, which is
battlemented, is of later date. IJoth nave and chancel
have open oak roofs of the Decorated ]>eriod, and the
church, generally, is of this epoch, with the exception of
60 shaeespbabe's land.
three semi-circuliir pluiu recessed Xorman pier arches,
which separate the south aisle from the nave, and vliich
are the remains of an earlier structure. At the east end of
the south wall of the south aisle is a beautiful tracery-
headed combined credence and piscina, and in the north
wall of the north aisle is an aumbiy. On the south side of
the chancel is an aumbry, piscina, and triple ogee-headed
sedilia. On the opposite side is the arch of a Holy
Sepulchre, used at Easter for the performance of solemn
mourning observances. The brass altar rail, of excep-
tionally good workmanship, is by Skidmore, of Birmingham.
The font, which stands under the tower, has a circular
bowl of the Norman period on a modern base.
Further down the road, at the corner of the village
street, is a farm house occupying the site of the great
mansion of the parish, the residence of the Greswolds,
whieii was taken down at the end of the last century. The
summer-house still remains, but converted into a pigeon-
house, and there is also an old chimney, with the date 1617
cut in a stone panel. The kitchen window contains the
Shuckburgh arms.
From hence, in a little more than two miles, the road
conducts to the village nf OfFchurch, the church of which,
situated on a hill, consists of a nave, chancel, south porch,
and western embattled tower. The south porch is Early
English circa, 1180-1200. The foundation stone has the
carved figure of a serpent ; another similar figure is carved
over the Norman window on the south side of the chancel.
On the north side is a Norman doorway (c. lllO-ll'iO) with
star and star-pellet mouldings, adjoining a buttress of
enormous width an<l thickness. On the ground here are
also the remains of an old stone cofBn of the 12th centurj'.
The tower, which is of the 14th centur>-, bears shot marks,
probably the result of a skirmish in August, 1642. The
nave is Farly English, with a Perpendicular west window,
and the chancel arch and chancel are Norman. The roof is
of open timber, and one of the tie-beams bears'thc date 1592,
On the north side of the altar is an aumbrj-, and on the
south a piscina and a stone sedilia for the priest, constructed
in one of the lights of the window nearest the east end.
The curfew is tolled here nightly at eight o'clock.
A mile west of the church is Offchurcli Bury, the seat of
Jane, Countess of Aylesford. The house, which stands on
the west bank of the Leam, in a pleasant park, studded
with groups of elms, is of various periods, the earliest part
dating from the reign of Henry VIII. The site, which is
S'hakbspeabb's land. GI
said to have been auciently occupied by a palace of Offa,
who was King of Mercia from 755 to 796, belonged, after
the Conquest, to tiie Priorj' of Coventry, and was, at the
dissolution, grunted to Sir Edmund Knightley, the last
descendant and heiress of whose Juimily married
Heueuge, sixth Earl of Aylesford. In front of the house,
overhanging a piece of ornamental water, is a mugnilicent
old chestnut tree, the lower branches of whicli droop like a
banyan tree. One of the upper rooms contains some fine
oak panelling, with a cornice carved with grotesque busts,
and a handsome Jacobean mantlepieco l)earing the
Knightley arms, and flanked by two curious female figures.
A case in the room contains some interesting Roman and
Saxon relics, found in a gravel pit in the village. In the
grounds are three hollow stone capitals, used as flower
vases, and said to be the capitals of pillars from King (Jffa's
palace. Mr. J. A. Cossins, the well-kno^\-n arcliitect, who
has examined them, expresses the following opinion : — " The
capitals, which have a decidedly Byzantine character, cannot
be later than the 11th Century, and almost certainly stood
singly and undetached. 1'1'fy would therefore appear to
have carried the springers or cross vaulting on a small
arcade. Capitals such as these, but not with such pro-
nounced survivals of classic detail, are now carrying the
groined vaults of the crypt of Canterbury, but these
resemble the capitals of the upper arcades in the church of
St. Sophia, at Constantinople more nearly than any others
that I have seen."
From hence, in three-and-a-half miles, the road reaches
Long Itchington. The church, tlie body of which was rebuilt
in the 14th Century by tiie priors of Maxstoke, consists of
nave, chancel, south aisle, a tower with a truncated steeple,
and modern porch and vestrj' on the north side. Tlie spire,
the lowest stage only of which now survives, was
struck by lightning February '27th, 1762, and fell on the
main fabric, greatly damaging it. The lower })art of the
tower has a peculiar feature in the shape of sunk quatrefoils,
which run round the upper part of the north, east, and west
sides, the arcii opening to the nave lirt-aking tiieir
continuity in tiie interior. The aisle was tlie original
church, and is Early English witii the exception of the
south doorway, which is Norman with plain arcades. The
clerestorj' is rerpen<licular, and the rest of the ciiurch is of
the Decorated period. In the south wall of the aisle are
two sepulchral arches, probably intended for founder's
tombs. At the east end of this aisle is a plain piscina, and
G2 bhakespbarb's laxd.
between the aisle and the chancel is a hagioscope. The
capital of the chancel arch, on the north side, has a curious
curving' of a baboon nursing its cub. In the north wall is
a triple recessed sepulchral arch, with a crocketted
pediment. In the soutii wall is a fine arcaded double
piscina, and a triple sedilia witli a crocketted continuous
pediment. Tlie chancel screen is a very tine and rare
specimen of 14th centurj' woodwork, the only other
example in the county l)eing at Woifhamcote. On the
nortli wall is a memorial brass to Jnlm IJosworth, of
Yardley, Worcestershire, wlio died March 10th, 1675, and
his two wives, Ellinor and Isabella, with the following
verse : —
ah you that passe mee by
Ae you are now soe once was I
As I now am soe sball yov bee
Remember the poore & Imitate mee.
Some crosses from old stone coffins ■s\-ill be found inserted
in the tower. St. Wolstan, who held the see of Worcester
(1062-1006), and was the la.st of the Saxon Bishops, was a
native of this place. Queen Elizabeth paid two visits to
Long Itcliington in her progresses to Kenihvorth. On the
12tli of August, 1572, she dined in a fine half-timbered
house, witli five gables, which stands upon the Green, and
which then belonged to Edward Ffysher, alias Hawkins, of
"Warwick, whose father held the cliurch estate here,
together with a vast amount of other church property.
On the '.tth of July, 1575, the Queen was entertained in a
magnificent tent. Anotlier fine half-timbered house, with
gabled wings, 8tand.s in the middle of the village. From
hence, Southam can be reached in two miles.
ROUTE 5.-LEAMIXGT0N TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON;
(1) VIA B-UIFORD, WASPERTON, HAMPTON LUCY,
AND CHARLECOTE ; (2) via WARWICK, LONG-
BRIDGE, AND WELCOMBE ; (3) via GREAT
WESTERN RAILWAY.
There are tvro principal routes by road from Leamington
to Stratford-on-Avon, and the town may also be reached
by a branch of the Great Western Railway.
The first route, via My ton, Barford, Charlecote, and
Tiddington, starts by the old Warwick Road, which is
pursued as far as the foot of Warwick Bridge (two miles),
whence the Banburj' Road is followed by turning shai-ply
to the left. The road skirts the Castle Park, and, in three-
quarters of a mile, passes through a charming wooded dell,
having on the right the New Water, a pretty ornamental
lake, nearly a mile in length, fringed with trees, and
created by George, second Earl of Warwick. At AspB
(three miles), we quit the main road and take a bye-road
to the right, which leads past Barford House (four miles),
near which is another pretty combination of wood and
water. Barford (four and a half miles), which is next
reached, is a picturesque village on the banks of the Avon,
crossed l)y a handsome stone bridge of three arche.s, built
in 1785 to replace an older structure. In the centre of the
village is the church, a stone buihling, which, with thu
exception of the tower, was rebuilt, in 1844, in the Karly
English style. The tower, on its north and south faces,
exhibits shot marks, which are said to have been caused by
the artillery of the Parliamentary troops, on their way to
the battle of Edgtt Hill, owing to the hoisting of tlu^ Royal
Standard on the tower by a representative of the Wardes,
a leading family then established here. A mih; from henco
the roa<l branchrsoff to the right, to the pleasantly situated
village of Wasperton, wliicli contains a pretty little churcli
in the Decoratud style, rebuilt, on an ancient site, from the
<le8igns of Sir G. G. Scott in the year 1843. The east
64 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
■window, of stained glass, is by Pugin, and the windows of
the porch fire tilled with ancient glass taken out of the
old church. The chancel is divided from the nave b\' a
handsome wooden screen, surmounted by a cross. The
church also contains a curious brass to " Honest Henry
Collins, who put off his earthly tabernacle 27th May, 1664,"
a beautiful specimen of the I'rayer Book of 1662, and
Communion I'lnte, of the year 1571, with a chalice,
supposed to be of pro-reformation date.
One mile further, on the south bank of the Thelsford
brook, near its junction with the Avon, stood the Priory
of Thelsford, foundt-d in the reign of Henry III. by William
de Lucy, of Charlecote, for monks of the order of the
Holy Trinity for redemption of captives. The formation of
the ground still shows the direction of some of the walls,
and the stew ponds nre yet visible on the opposite side of
the brook.
Proceeding onwards, a well-designed enst iron bridge over
the Avon conducts to Hampton Lucy (seven and a half miles).
The church anciently l)elonged to the see of Worcester, and
was thence termed Hampton Bishops or Episcopi, but, being
taken from that see by Queen Mar>', and given to the Lucy
family, was thenceforward known as Hampton Lucy,
The ciiurch, which has an embattled tower, with pinnacles,
and is in tlie Decorated style, was rebuilt between the
years 1822-26. In 1858, an apse, with five handsome
windows, was added, together with a porch and parvise,
from designs by Sir G. G. Scott, the chancel being restored
at the same time. These are the best parts of the church,
the remainder is of inferior execution, the framework of
the windows of the aisles being of cast iron, painted. The
oak stalls, by Kitt and Ratten, of Cambridge, are hand-
somely carved. The windows of the apse contain painted
flass,* representing the principal events in the life of St.
'eter, to whom the church is dedicated, and the Royal
arras of England and Spain commemorate the gift of the
church by Queen Mary. From hence, a delightful country
lane, which skirts Charlecote Park, conducts to the pretty
Tillage of Charlecote (nine miles).' The church, which is
a small and tasteful building in the Decorated style,
completed in 1853, on the site of the ancient church,
consists of a south tower, nave, chancel, and mortuary
chapel. The building is groined throughout, and fitted
^ By the direct road trom Barfonl to Charlecot«, the dutauco ia seven
and a half tuilua.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. G5
^vith oak, but the chief feature of the interior is the
mortuary chapel, opening out of the north side of the
chancel, an<l separated from it liy a riclily citrvoil oak screen.
This cha])el contains three unique monuments of the Lucy
family. L'mler the wheel window i.s a high tomb with
pani'lk-d sides, bearing recumbent efligies, in alabaster, of
.Sir Thomas Lucy, Kt., and his wife, Joyce. TJie Knight,
whom local tradition terms '• Shakespeare's persecutor,"
and who difil July 7th, KM), is burdu'aded, and clad in
armmir. His wife, who died February Hith, 1595, aged 63, is
attired in a close cap,Avith a close fitting high bod iced go%\Ti.
In the panels beneath are kneeling figures, in profile of their
only son, Thomas, and only daughter, Anne. Al)ove. on a
black marlde slal), is an inscription from the ])en of Sir
Tliomas, recording the virtues of his wife. Opposite to
thi* is another high tomb, encompassed on three sides by
an entaldature, supported in front by Corinthian columns,
and l)earing the recumbent effigy, in alaltaster, of the only
son of the jtreceding couple, also named Thomas, who was
knighted by C^ueen Elizabeth in his father's lifetime. In
panels on the side are kneeling figures of six sons and
eight daughters. Sir Thomas, who died July 16th, 1605,
and was t-nnce married, is represented bareheaded, and
clad in armour. The effigy of the second Lady Lucy
(Constance, daugliter of Richard Kingsmill), who survived
her husband tliirty-one years, is of j)ainted stone. She
kneels in the attitude of i)rayer on a stone cusliion,
placed on detached block of alabaster close to the side of the
tomb, and is attired in a high bodiced black gown, with a
stomacher and tipj)et, having a ruff round her neck, and
a calash hanging from the head and covering the shoulders.
The figure has a quiet air of ])athos about it, (juaint but
impressive. The fingers, unluckily, are crumbling, owing
to the dampness of the situation. On the north side, under
an arcaded tester-headed cano])y, sui)])orteil 1)y four
columns of Italian design, is a high tomb, bearing efligies,
in white marlile, of a third Sir Thomas Lucy and his wife,
La<ly Alice, daughter and heiress of Thomas Spencer, of
Claverdon. Sir Thomas, who died Deceml)er 10th, ir>40,
of a fall from his horse, was the eldest .son of the
preceding Sir Thomas. He is repres«'nted in annour,
and bareheailed, reclining nn his left elbow. His wife,
wlio died in 1648, is attired in a low l)n(iied rolie with a
flowing hood, and is in a recumbent |)osition, iier head
resting on a cushion. The figures, whicii are admirably
finished, are remarkably fine s))ecimens of monumental
art. They were executed by the celebrated Bernini, of
D
66 ^S1C.VKKS1•KAUE 8 LANl).
Rome, by the help of portraits sent him by Sir Thomas's
widow, wlio is 8ai<l to have paid IJM) ^;mnens for their
execution. The centre arcade at the buck of the tomb
contains a fulsome inscription in Latin, that on the left
has a representation of Sir Thomas on horseback, an
exercise of which he was very fond, and that on the
right exhibits some books representing his literary
tastfs.
The font, which stands in the Belfry- porch, is almost
cylindrical in form, it is of very large size and plain tj-pe,
and i.^ su])jK)Sfd to be of Saxon origin.
All aveiiU'' of tine elms connects the church with
Charlecote Hall, which is situated close to the south
bank of the Avon, near its junction with the Dene, or
Wellesbourne Brook, and stands in a park of 225 acres,
ornamented with a profusion of handsome timber of
ancient growth, and well stocked with fallow and red
deer. The village was originally granted by Ilenrj' de
Montfort, in the reign of King Richard I., to Walter de
Cherlecote, whose son, William, in the year 1216, assumed
the name of Lucy, by which the family has ever since been
known. The present house was erected by Sir Thomas
Lucy in the year 15r)8, probably on the site of the older
mansion, and, ^nth the exception of the addition of
a library and dining room, which were built in 1833,
remains unaltered. The approach from the road lies
through the ancient (iatehouse, a grand and perfect
specimen of Elizabethan architecture, with octagonal
turrets, having domical roofs capped with vanes at the
angles; a battlemented parapet ; and a tine oriel window
over the archway. The upper storj* is said to have
formerly formed a banquetting room. A garden court,
with terraces on each side, extends between the gateway
and tile main building. The house, which, like the
gateway, is built of brick, with stone dressings, consists
of a gabled central block, with similar projecting wings,
having octagonal turrets, crowned with vanes at the
angles. Tlie entrance is by a very handsome porch,
projecting into the court, and completing, out of compli-
ment to t^ueen Elizabeth, it is said, the letter E in the
ground pliin, though placed to the left of the centre, in
order to afford room for the hall. The lower stage of the
porch is Ionic, the upper composite. The Royal arms
with E. R. are carved over the doon\ay, and the initials
T. L. in the spandrils. It is said that the porch was
hurriedly completed to do honour to (^ueen Elizabeth on
her visit.
>:;hakespeaiie's land. 67
The Great Hall, which is first entered, is a verj- handsome
apartment, liglited by a tine hay window with the family
arms, in which the memorable " luces " are conspicuous,
blazoned in the upper part, and Hanked on each side by a
smaller window. The oak wainscoting running round the
hall is surmounted by small shields, seventy-one in number
emblazoned with the quarterings of the arms of the Lucy
family, from the time of Edmund Ironsides.
Great Hali,.— Pictures : " Rtv. John Lucy," ArtaaU; " Mre. Lucy,"
Aitaod : " Bird's Eye View of Charlecote," taken in 109(5 (Colonel George
Lucy lunl hi!< wife ill the forefeTouiul); " George Lucy," 1708; "The Three
Misses Lucy," G. da Pozzo ; " Sir Thomas Lucy " fdied 1640), C. Jamseiu ;
" Lady Lucy ' (die<l 1648); " Dr. William Lucy ' (died 1723), in full canoni-
cals, Richanhon : " iJeoree Lucy," son of Fulke Lucy in 1758 (died 1786),
Batoni: " Rev. John Hammond ' (died 1724), husband of Alice, second
daughter of Sir Fulke Lucy, Kichanhon : "Colonel Geortre Lucv " (died
1721), son of Sir Fulke Lucy, Dahl: "Mrs Lucy" (died 1708), first wife
of Colonel George Lucy, Dahl: "Jane Bohun," second wife of Colonel
George Lucy, Dahl : *" Sir Thomas Lucy " (died 1640), with his wife, their
seven children, and their nurse, C. Jaiui<eM : " A Young La<ly," d;uighter
of Sir William Uii'lerhill ; " Child with a Bow," supjiosed to be one of the
children of Sir Thomas Lucy (died 1605) and his wife, Constance
Kingsniill ; " Child Flaring with a Lamb," one of the children of Sir
ThoniJia and Lady Constance Lucy; "Four Children of Sir Thuniiis
Lucy," painted in' 1619; " Kichard Luoy " (<lied 1677, ajt 58), third son
of Sir Thoni.is Lucy; "Sir Fulke Lucy " (died 1677, aet 54), si.xtli son of
Sir Thomas Lucy '; " William Bromley, Si)e<iker of tlie Hoii.se of
Commons, 171'i-1714 " (three-quarter length, in a green velvet coat);
" Laiiy Lucy," wife of Sir FuUe Lucy ; "Sir William Dnderhill," husband
of .\lice, fourth daughter of Sir Thomas Lucy (oval, in armour) ;
" Elizabeth," only daughter of Captain Thomas Lucy, Kndkr: "Robert
Lucy," son of Sir Thomas Lucy (in aiiuour) ; " A Laxly in Furple; "Three
Children of Sir Thomas Lucy with a Pet Lamb," LlI;/.- " The Wife of
Ricluinl Lucy" "A L;vdy," supposed to be the sister of the wife of
Rich.-xrd Lucy; "Queen .\nne" (three-(iuaiter length). Kiullcr: "Mrs.
Lucy," wife to Captain Tliomas Lucy (full length), Kiu 10 r : " CapUiiii
Thomas Lucy" (died 1084) (full length), KiulUr : "Prince George of
Denmark" I tliree-iiuarter length), Kiullur ; "William Fidke Lucy,"
Dt Manarn: " Georne Lucy," (1841), Aiiurliixg : " Mary Elizabeth Lucy,"
wife of Ge<jrge Lucy (1851), D-: Maaara : "Spencer Lucy (1850), Dt
Manara: " Lord Herbert of Cherbiiry (oval, on copi^or), hauc Otiffr;
"Sir Thomas Lucy" (oval, on copper), Isaac Oliver ; "Thomas Lloyil
Fitz Hugh," hiisbaiid of Mary Emily Lucy, De Manara. The hall also
c<jntaiii8 a very handsjjnie Table of lavoro di comniesso, coiii])osed of the
largest piece of onyx ever found, withjiisiKjr, lajjis, breccia, and other stones,
which was fonnerly at Foiithill Abbey, and originally c;ime frnm the
Borghese P,il;ice at Rome ; a beautiful Florentine Vase, with doves ; a fine
pair of Brass Dogs, with the family .arms ; and BustM of the following
personagee : — "Queen Elizjibeth," "Shakespeare," "Sir Thomas Lucy"
(died 1000), " Sir Tlioni.-is Lucy " (died 1006), " George Lucy " (died 1845),
" Henry Siwiicer Lucy " (die<l 1890).
From the Ureat Hall, a doorway on tlie left leads to the
foot of the old Oak Staircase, and thence to the l^ibrary
and Dining Room, which were added to the hou.se in IX'M;
another donrway, on the right, conducts to the Billiard
Room and Drawing Room, in the north wing.
G8 smakksphahk'.s land.
LiiiKAUV.— Pictures : " Qutxsii Elizjibotli, mum. l.'iOS " (three-quarter
loiiglli), Hir Anloiiif) Move: " The Bucliotm of Kurriirii,' Tilitia : " Uml
Htrafforil," Slimr : " Cluu-K'S I., "SfoiK .■ " Queoii lloiirietta M.iria" (tlirce-
quartor leii>,^h), Vii,i DyrL- (origiiiiillr given by the ^iuoeii t<« Mrc. Kirk,
one (if her liulies) : " Charleall."; " Arclibinlioji L:iiicl " (1673-U)4ri), .Sinn,- ;
"Jniuuti II."; " Ht Jerome," Gaitto Jiiiii: " Miisiciium," yaOiilixa.
" St. I'eter" ; " Portriiita <if Sir ThoniiiM Lucy and liiii Wife," sent to Honn-
an |iattern8 (or Bn-iuni, the scul|iti>r; "Ueorgo Lucy " (1768), Gnim'tfnftuyli .
" Sir Thoroiut Coventry, Lonl Keejier <if the Grunt Seal, li!25," given bv
himself (three-i(u;irt«r le'i^'th), Tn/i Ih/ci : "Girl IteJuUng"; " PriiKv-
Carliw," r>/(ij<7i«- .■ " Maj-y Magdalene " ; " Isaliella, Wife of the
Eui|)ei-oi, Ghailes v.," Tttinii: "Henry VIII.," Jlolhtiyt. The room also
containx a very tine Suite, consiHting uf tuo ciibinutii, a couch, an ariuchiiir,
anil ul«ht ch;iii-8, of ebony and »eu-hor«e ivory, given by Queen Klizabetli
to her favourite, Loycouter, in 1675, ami brought from Konilwortli Ciuttle ;
a Marqiieterie Table, formerly in the \«o8«eSBioii of Louis XIV. ; and a
beautiful Kliirentine Table, inlaid with coral, lapiH lazuli, Jtc.
The Dining Room has a panelled plaster ceiling of Kliza-
hotlmn tyi)e, and a grandly executed buffet, by Wilcox, of
Warwick, \vhicli is finely carved with game on one side,
and fish and .sea-weed on the other. A huntsman, fisherman,
and Ceres, occupy the toj), together with little boys
engaged in agricultural occupations. On the side of the
room, facing the river, there is a tine oj)en view, extending in
the distance to the Welcombe Obelisk, the foreground tieing
agreeably varieil by handsome clumps of trees in the ])ark.
I'Yoin till' south end of thf room, tliere is a cliarming view
of till' Wellesbourne Brook, as it brawls over the weir to
i'oin the Avon, while the background is formed by a
lamlsome avenue of lime trees, which winds away in the
direction of Stratford.
DiNiNd Room. — Pictures : "Fish and Fniit," Jacob Jorilariu : "Fight
between a T\irkey and a Cock," M'lrhinr l/nmhcoitir ; "Dead Game,
with a Uog anil Falconer," .S».'/''^»'«(lhe figure by I'dii Pi/ck).
B11.1.1.VKI1 Room. — Pictures : " Mr. and Mm. Sl)encer Lucy,' (/. i>n Pnzzn;
" William Shakeapeiiro " ; "William Lucy"; " Caj«MUidra Delivereil from
Captivity," lUirboul (.W Guercino).- "St Jerome in the WilderncKS with
his Lion and an Angel," Van Djiek : " Cottage Home Scene"; "Children
with Pets" ; "Copy of the Picture of Garrick," by (lainaliorowjh : " Wilil
Boar Hunt," /). VatwU. The Uilliard Table is made of oak, taken from
the " Royal George," which sank at Portonioutli in 17S2.
Drawinv! Room.— Pictures : " Blondel Singing to Richanl \. in Prison,"
Franijijiaiii' : " ,\ Venetian Musical Composer," Titian : " I.^nd»cui«3 with
Figures on Horseback," Jan Both; "St. Cecilia," Domenichinn ; "Land-
scape," J. KVWcJM/ "Herdsmen and Cattle," liHhciin; "Fruit," Jan
Daeiilztle fheiii; " Samson Pulling Down the Temple of the Philistines,"
Titian: " Rest on the Flight to Egypt," Madonna with Jesus and St.
John on one side, and Joseph on the other, Fra Bartolomimo ; " Gala Day
on the Grand Canal at Venice," VanaUtlo; •"Head of a Girl," Grc\ii> •,
" Piurro d\i Terrail, Chevalier de Bayard" (H7.'M5'J4), Sctxixtian tlil I'iombo;
" I<andHCii|K;, with Eve S)iinning, and AIx-1 holding Cherries in his hand,"
Jiarl'io lie ; " Lion Attacking a Flock of .Sheep," Pnimtin ; "Samson Rending
the I.aon," Titian ; "Mary, Q\ieen of England " (15.06), Sir Aiitnnw Moti ;
"Gonsalvo tli Fcn;uid," Gioirjione ; "Head of Christ," Carlo Doici ;
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 69
" Christ amJ tlie Woman of ijaruaria at the Woll," Garofaln ; " Aiioration,"
Aixiiil/iiU Ciiritvci; " Kjbert Kich, First Earl of Warwick" (diod lOlS),
Zuccheio. Tiiis room also coiitaiiui a beautiful Kloruiitiuo Cabinet of
pietra dura work, some tine Klxiiiy Chairs, an elaborately cjirved Indiiui
Couch ; a .Swonl, the so;ibbai-d of which is covereil with tuniuoiso and
rubies, taken in the loot at Lucknow by Colonel Ijme, of the 2l8t
Uuusars ; and a hue old China Plate, similar to that which is depicted
in the pioturtt of Sir Thomiu Lucy and his family.
Much of the interest that centres about Charlecote arises
from the tradition that Shakespeare was connected with a
poachinj^ affray in tlie park, for which he was prosecuted
by Sir Thomas Lucy, and tied to London to avoid the
consequences. This tradition rests on tlie autliority of
Rowe, who first gave it to the world in 170!), liaving
proljably deriveil his information from th(^ papers (jf the
Rev. William Fiilnian, a fellow of Corpus Christi College,
Oxford, who had made some collections for a biograjihy
of English poets, and who died in 1688. One great objec-
tion to the legend is that Charlecote, in all probability,
possessed no deer at the time, as there is no evidence to
indicate that it was statiitably enclosed for the purpose of
keeping and breeding them. There were, however, deer in
the neighl)ouring park of Fulbroke, belonging to the
Lucys, and deer poaching at that period was by no
means an uncommon offence, even with men of superior
station to Shakespeare. From, the way in which
Sir Thomas Lucy is undoubtedly satirised as Justice
Shallow, it appears as if the poet had some cause
for aver-sion to him, though there is no clear evidence to
show in what way it arose. It has been suggested that
un augmented reason for his dislike to be found, in the
fact that, in 15'Jti, Shakespeare applied for a coat of
arms for his father, and that a strong objection was
made to the application by some one who had
influence at Court. The objector being conjectured to \ie
Sir Thomas Lucy.
J(jhn Fux, the noted martyrologist, became, in the year
I.W."), a guest at Charlecote, and, before he left, marrietl,
in February, l.'i-k), Agnes KonduU, the daughter of a
Coventry citizen. On the 24th of August, 1572, (^ueen
Elizabeth paid Sir Thomas Lucy a visit, when on
her way from Warwick to Compton Wynyates. On
September Oth, ](>45, the Scottisii army encampeil in the
park on its way northward from Hereford. From the
llall, a bridge across the Wellesbourne Brook, built in the
middle of the last century, conducts to a magnificent
avenue of limi- trees, from whence a good view of the
house is obtained.
70 SUAKESPBAUE'S LAND.
About tliree-quarters of u mil>' from the Lodge Gate, on
the roiiil to Stratfonl, is Littleham Bridge. Some ten yards
from the west end of this bridj^e, on the right hand side,
a murderous attack was, on the night of the -tth of
November, 1^20, made by four men, named (^viiney, Adams,
Sidney, and lleytrey, on Mr. William Hiron, a yeoman
farmer, of the neighbourhood. Mr. Iliron was afterwards
found lying by the roadside, his head resting in a hole, and
it is said tliat this hole continues to exist unchanged, that
it can never be filled, and that all attempts to fill it result
in failure. It ought perhaps to be added, that there is
more than a suspicion that the retention of the hole is due
to the fostering care of some of the neighbouring countrj'
folk, anxious to preserve the legend. The murderers were
all han^'ed at Warwick in April, 1821.
A mile further, we arrive at Tiddington (twelve miles),
from whence a road branches off to Alveston (half a mile).
The present church of Alveston, built in IS3U, is an unin-
teresting building, but a quarter of a mile further in the
direction of the nver, are the ivy-covered remains of the old
church, consisting of the chancel, with a bell cot. In this
building is a very interesting effigj* of a gentleman, dressed
in the costume of the Siiakespearean period, now placed
upright against the wall, but once recumbent on a high
tomb, which has been destroyed. It represents Nichohs
Lane, bareheaded, with a moustache and beard, the latter
cut straiglit under the chin ; round his neck a short ruff is
■worn. The hair of the head is disposed in curly locks.
His body vesture consists of a doublet, buttoned down in
front, and belted round; on the left side a dagger or knife
is attached. The hands, which are clasped, are bare. The
sleeves of the doublet are worked at the shoulders and
upper part of the arms. The wrists are cuffed. Trunk
hose of a curious fashion, stockings, and round-toed shoes
complete the dress. This effigy, from its somewhat crude
execution, has the appearance of being rather the work of
a skilled mason than of a consummate sculptor. On
each side of the legs is a kneeling male figiire, presumably
a son, represented bareheaded, with moustache and beard,
in much the same costume as the effigj*, but the doublet at
the loins is continued all round. In arcades at the sides of
the slab, are, on the left a female, and on the right a male,
and over them are a few other fragments of the tomb.
Above, on a plate of copper, enclosed oy scroll work, is the
following inscription : — " Here lieth bvried the bo<lie of
Nicholas Lane, Gent., who deceased the XXVII day of
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 71
July, Anno Domini, 1595." The chancel also contains a
marble tal)let to the memory of Cvlunel Newxham iWrx,
wlio died July :28th, 1743, of woundi^ received at the Battle
of Dettinfjen; and another tablet to the niemorj- of 3/;-.
William Hirun, who was murdered near Littleham Bridge ;
and to that of his mother, whose death was hastened by
his fate.
Proceeding onwards, as we approach Stratford, the
Memorial Buildings form a prominent object in the land-
scape. In tile suburb of Bridge Town, at the foot of the
bridge across the Avon, leading into Stratford, is Alveston
Manor House, an interesting gal)led structure.
The second route from Leamington to Stratford lies
through Warwick. At three miles and three-quarters, we
reach Longbridge,' where the road bifurcates. This spot
was, in the year 1471, the scene of the violent death of
John ilerthili, steward to Richard ^'evill, Earl of Warwick,
who, when on his way to Barford, was waylaid and
slain here by Nicholas Brome, lord of Baddesley Clinton, in
revenge for having killed Brome's father, three years
previously, in London. The way to the left leads to
Barford (one and a half miles), where it joins the route via
Charlecote. Following the fork to the right, we come, in
three-quarters of a mile, to a l)ranch on the left, leading to
the village of Sherborne, three-quarters of a mile further,
which contains one of the finest village churches in the
county. The church consists of nave, chancel, north and
south aisles, north porch, and western tower, with a spire,
built in 1864, in the Early English style, from the designs
of Sir G. G. Scott. The building, which owes its existence
to the munificence of Miss lii/land, the lady of the manor,
cost £20,iM), and replaces a fabric destitute of architectural
merit, which was erected in 1747, on the site of an older
church. The nave opens to the aisles by four bays, the
shafts of the columns are formed of green and red marble,
from Italy and Devonshire respectively, and the carving
of the capitals is different in each instance. The
clerestorj' is lighted by four windows on each side, and the
corbels, supporting the roof, are formed of angels playing
on musical instruments, or singing. The roof is of open oak,
and tlie })ulpit, also of oak, is riclily carved, the panels
being filled witli emblems. The reredos, which is ot
alabaster, inlaid with marble of dififerent colours, and
' Lon(ibri(lg€ derives ita iiaiuo from ii imrrow footbridge wliicli aiu-ielitly
croaiied a Hinall torrent coming from Uudbrouk.
72 SHAKESPEABE S LAND.
bright bosses of Derbyshire spar, is reraarkiibly handsome.
The centre contains statuettes of Christ and the four
Kvangflists, witli representations of the liurial and Resur-
rection on eacli side. The font, of wliite marble, ])resented
by .Miss Raiub'U, is of exquisite workmanshii), inbiid with
marliles of rlitferent colours, ami studded with cornelian
ami other valuable stones. A mortuary chajjel, at the east
end of the south aisle, contains a hif^h tomb of Caen stone
to the memory of the father and mother of Miss Ryhind.
There are several stained glass windows, of considerable
merit, by Clayton and Bell.
From iiencf, a road leads to Hampton Lucy (three miles),
passing, at one mile on the ri^^dit, the " (iate Farm"
J^ou^se, whieh immediately adjoins a rectangular area,
57 yards long by 47 yards wide, bounde<l on three sides
and part of tlie fourth by a moat, 1(5 yanls wide, tilled with
water, marking the site of a sumptuous (iate-house of
Stone, erected by Joan, Ladj" Hergavenny, in the reign of
Henry IV., and which fell into decay towards the close of
the 15th century. Twenty-three yards to the north of this
is another plot, measuring 3ft yards square, surrounded bj'
a moat 18 yards wide, the ]iuri)ose of which is unknown.
The church, which stood between the road ami the
river, nearly ojiposite to the Gate-house, has entirely
disaj)peared. About a quarter of a mile to the south,
on Park Farm, is Castle Kill, on which stood Fulbroke
Castle, a small structure of brick and stone, built in 142()
by John, Dvd<e of Bedford, fourth son of Henry IV. It
became ruinous at the same time as the Gate-house, and was
pulled down, about 1501), bj* Sir William Compton, who
used part of the materials for the construction of his house
at Compton Wynyates. The site is now traceable only by
the numerous small fragments of brick which strew the
ground. The brook which runs at the foot of the hill,
shows signs of having been dammed up, to form a
succession of stew ponds— four in number -below which it
turned a mill, and sooji afterwards united with the Avon.
Returning to the high road, we attain, in the course of
another mile, the summit of Sherborne Hill, from whence
there is a fine panoramic view. In tiie valley, on the left,
is Castle Hill; on the right is Northbrook, a modern brick
structure of two gables, which stands on the site of a
moate<l grange, formerly the residence of John Grant, one
of the Gunpowder conspirators. At the time of the jdot, it
was a rendezvous of the conspirators, and a storehouse for
their arms and armour. On the discovery of the scheme.
SUAKESPEAnE'S LAND. 73
the accomplices rt'sted here for a few hours early on the
morning of the 6th of November, IGOo, in their flight to
Huddington, jind it was from here that S^ir Everard bighy
despatched, by Bates, Catesljy's servant, the letter of
warning to b'ather (ireenway, at Coughton. Half a mile
further, a ruad branches off on the right, to Snitterheld,
distant two miles. Troceeding onwards, pretty glimpses of
the plain below are obtained tlirougli the trees which line the
road on the left, the spire of Stratford Church liciug visible
amongst other objects. At eiglit and a quarter miles, a
road branches off on the left to Hampton Lui'y. At nine
miles, on the right, is Welcombe Lodge, a mansion iTected
by Mr. Mark Philips, in 18'i'J, in the Elizabethan style, on
the site of a house which was formerly the residence
of William Combe, nephew of John Comlje, and
a friend of Shakespeare. On the height above, is an
Obelisk of Cefn stone, erected, in 187."), by the late Mr.
Robert >'. Philips, and bearing, on the north side, an
inscription in memory of his brother, Mark, who died in
1873. Another inscription has since been added on the
west side, to the memory of Mr. R. N. I'hilips, who died in
18i)U. The monument is iL'oft. in height, and forms a
cou.spicuous landmark for many miles. In the liills at the
rear are extensive trenches, known as The Dingles, which
take the form of a T, with soraewliat zigzag limbs. The
stem of the T ranges from south to north, and the two
parts are each about .oOO yards in length, and from thirty
to forty feet deep, the width at the top being about forty
feet, decreasing to ten or twelve feet at the bottom. The
origin of this curious place has been the subject of debate ;
by .some it is held to be entirely a natural formation, due to
the action of running water undermining and cutting
away tlie banks; by others it is maintained that it is a
British entrenchment. It seems ])rolial)le that iioth con-
clusions are, to some extent, correct, and that tluf work of
nature was utilised by the Britons as a means of defence.
The route by railway (fifteen miles) branches off from
the main line ut Hatton Junction. Just before reaching
Claverdon Station, on tlie rigiit, the "Stone Uuilding" is to
be seen, and soon after ([uifting the station, the Church,
with its square tower and clock, becomes visible. Nearing
Bearley, on the same side, a glimpse nuiy be obtained of
Edatone Hall, with the oiimiiieiital lake in front of it.
Immediately after leaving Wilmcote, .Mary Aniens House
la to be seen, a little more tluiii half a mile distant,
standing by itself in the lane leading to the station.
74 SUAliKSPKARE's LAND.
Before arriving at Stratford, the gables of Clopton House
are observiible on the left, a little in advance of the
Welcorabe Obelisk, wliich stands on the eminence above.
Stratkohd-on-Avon.i
The chief object of attraction is naturally the Birthplace
of Shakespeare,- with tlu' adjoining woolshop, the combined
hnusi's t'Dniiiiif,' a liiilf-timlKTfd structure of two stories,
witli dormer windows and a wooden porch. This composite
building' stands nearly in tlie centre of llenlej' Street, and
now presents much the same appearance as it did at the
time of the poet's birth, having been carefully restored in
1857-8 with the most scrupulous attention to every
indication discoverable of its former condition. Both
houses were apparently erected in the first half of the 16th
century, and, at that period, the Birthplace would take
rank as a comfortable ami desirable residence for a trades-
man in a small provincial town. But its surroun- ings
then were verj- different ; the road in front was in a
primitive state, full of ruts and ridges, littered with
1 Stral/onl from the A.S. Striate, a great roaiJ or higliway, owes its
name to its pogition, iu ancient tiniea, on a ford of the Avon, which wa«
here cruBsed by tlie great north road from Ix>ndou to Biniiingliam.
2 E.rplanalion of the Plan of ShaXxipeart't Birthplace icith the adjoining
proptrtien :
A. — Cor\)oration Property.
B. — The i)rii|H)rty of John Jchirnr, boUI, in 1531, to Robert Jnhnfon, who
tlieruiiiKin converted it into the White Lion Inn. His descendant*
held it till IfiSS, when it was sold to Edicanl £lder(on. Horace
Wi»liH>le Htayetl here in 1777.
0.— The Proiicrty of George Bwl(j> r, a draper, in whose family it continued
till 1031, when it was sold to Thoiuat Home, and converted into the
Sirnn Inn. About 175S, the Swan was niergc<i in the White
Lion, sign and all, by John Pat/ton, who had bought this with the
adjoining property.
D.— Birthplace. On the garden part of this, facing the roa»l, three
cottages were built, circa lt>75 ; these were purcha«e<l in 1848, and
pulled down. </ ' and il ^ probable sites of barns at the back.
E.— The 'Woolahop, subsequently the Siran aixl Maiilenheiul Inn.
p. — Tlie proi>erty of E'Uranl Wi/llts, who bought it, in 1C7&, f loni William
Wetl(letrnml, a t^iilnr, who remained the tenant. The house vma
rebuilt in IMS or 1500, and converteil into a tavern, called Tlu Bell,
occuiiii'il by HoUrt BrooLen ; about 1614, it again became a private
tenement. ' The site of this house is now tlirown int*) the present
ganleii of the Birthplace. ThomoA Na.ih, husband of 8hakeBi>earo'8
graiuMaugliter, jmrchased this i)r(i])erty in 1647.
O.— The i)roi>erty of Richard Hornhi/. , a siibetiintial Hiiiith, al.so iiiircluuiod
by Thomat Nash in KS'.'O. p ' and p- existuig Cottage and Kitchen
of the custtKlian of .Shake«i)e.ire'» House.
H.— Corjioration Proj)erty, occui)ied, in 1.505. by a glover named BraiUev,
and in 1677, by a whittower name<l WiUon : it was iwrtialiy
destroyed by fire in 1594, and shortly aftenvards lebuilt.
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SHAKESPEARES LAND. 70
rubbish nnd garbage, and sprinkled 'with house slops, in
Avhich pigs wallowed and fowls scratched their nestling
places. Dungheaps, containing the household refuse,
would also b'' visible outside eacli house, sometimes
attaining formidable proportions, in spite of municipal
regulations to compel the inhabitants to transfer their
impurities to specified common dunghills.' In front of the
principal door of the Birthplace, was a walnut tree, which
was cut <lown in 176.5. and on the opposite side of the road
was a pool of water. At the back was a garden, and
probabl}' barns and pigsties, for, in those days, sanitarj'
measures were neither understood nor practised.
History of the Houses. —In 1552, John Shakespeare,
father of the poet, is found tenanting a hou.se in Henley
Street, the precise situation of which is not described, but
which there is every reason to believe was the building
known as the Birthplace. In October, 15.")6, he purchased
two small freehold estates, one in Greenhill Street, and the
other in Henley Street, the latter being next to the
Birthplace, and bein» subsequently used as a shoj) for the
sale of wool and other commodities in wliich he dealt.
Interior doorways undoul)tedly existed between these two
hou.ses, and they must have been constructed before 1616,
as after that date, and probably as early as 1603, the two
structures were occupied as separate dwellings. In 1575,
John Shakespeare purchased, for £-K), from Edmund Hall,
the dwelling known as the Birthplace, and a deed, of the
year 1590, recites his possession of it. After John
Shakes])eare's death, in 1601, the woolshop descended to
the i)oet, as heir-at-law. It is probable that he let the
woolshop, and after the death of his mother, in 16C8,
allowed his sister, Joan Hart, to live rent free at the
Birtliplace. By his will, he devised it to her for life, and
she continued to occupy it till her death, in 164f). It then
became the property of Shakesjieare's elder <huig!iter,
Susanna Hall, ^\ilO already owned the woolshop by
bequest from her father. On Mrs. Hall's death, in July
1()4',(, l)oth ])ro}ierties ])assed to her daughter, Mrs., after-
wards Lady Barnard, who, dying without issue in 167U,
l)equeatlied them to Thomas Hart, grandson of Joan bj- her
son Tliomas. and his issue Avith remainder to his brotlier
(Jeorge, who was a tailor. Thomiis died childless, and
(lef)rge, in 16'.t4, bestowed tiie Birtliplace on his eldest son,
Shakespeare Hart, together with the reversion in fee of
1 III A]iril, 1j5'J, .Jolin SliiikuHiwaru wiui iiiiiercod in ttiu huiii uf twelve-
penoa for ganiering an uiixavuury hiirvent luulur hm own wiiidowK.
76 shakespeabe's land.
tilt* woolshop, of which he becnme own«T in 1702. The
luttiT mort^'iijjiHl his properties for £8<) in 1727. and diet!
in 1747, b«<|iitathiiif; tlu-m to his wife Aiinc. wlio, at ln-r
deatli, in 17.').M, left tlu-m to lier hiishand's nt'i)ht'\v, (Jeorpe
Hart. Tliis hitter, in 1771, .^old the ground floor room in
tile westernmost part, with the rf>om over it, which had
already heen formed into a separate tenement. George
Hart died in 177''^, when liis projierty pas.sed to his son,
Thomas. This hitter died in 17'.i.{, leavinjr the woolshop
to his son .lolin, a turner, then li\ inj,' in l^ondon, but after-
wards in Tewkesbury, an<l the IJirthjilace to his son Thomas,
a butcher. In 17'.l6, Thomas conveyed the lHrth))lace
to his brother. John died in IS(X), be(pieathin|^ both jdaces
to his widow for life, with remainder to his three children.
These persons,' who were i)oor, in .luly W)Q, sold their
interest, which was encumbered, by a mortj,'age. to Thomas
Court for £210, and left the town. Court, by his will,
directed the ])roj)erties to lie .soM after the death of his
wife. This event hajijtened in 184<>, and in Sejitember,
1847, the houses were purchased by a Committee of
Trustees for the nation for the sum of £3,000, and the
subsequent renovations and alterations cost an additional
sum of between £2.0(KJ and £;3,(KX). The combiiuKl
tenements suffered, from time to time, from structural
alterations. About the year Kno. three eotta<,'es were
er»'Cted on the garden west of the Birthjjhice, an(l, at some
date before 17;iO, the we.stemmost ground floor room of the
Birthplace, with the room over it, was formed into a
se])arate tenement, and the whole of them were sold, in
1771, to Alderman Payton. .Ml these tenements were
purchased by subscription in 1848; the threi> cottages were
pidled down, their site being restored to the garden, and
the severed ])ortion of the Birthplace was reunited to the
original building. Between 17h; and 17!'-*, the dormer
windows were taken out, ]>robably owing to the window
tax having been increased in 1784, the bay windows and
porch were removed, and the Birthplace was converted
into a butchers shoj), with an open meat stall. In 1808,
the timber framed front of the Maidenhead Inn (originally
the woolshop), which had become dila]>idated, was replaced
by brickwork. In 1857-8, all these innovations were
removed, and the houses carefully restored to their original
state.
Tenancy.— The Birthplace seems to have continued in
1 In 1864, the Imtt direct deaceiidaiit <>f the family emignited to Australia.
SHAKESPEARE'S LANP. 77
its orif,Mnal state until 17f*i)-'.lL>, when it was convi-rtiMl into
a biitclu-r's slioi). Tlie Woolslioj), as early as ItiO.'i, appears
to have been turned into an inn, known iu< the Maitlenhead,
afterwards the Swan and Maidenhead until 18U8, when
the title of the Swan was omitted.
IXTKUIOE. — The door, which is hatclied, n]p.iis into a
room, which was probal)ly the Family Sitting Room in
former times. It has a pa\ ed floor, and a recessed tire-
placi', and contains a liureau of a lati-r date. From hence,
a doorway leads into The Kitchen, which is a few inches
higluT than the adjacent room. On the left luunl side is
the fireplace, the mantel of which consists of a solid l)eam
of oak. Un the left of the interior of the firej)lace is a
hatch opening,' to the bacon cupboard, and on the other side
is an arched recess for a seat. The kitchen, which is small,
is lifihte<l by a Avindow o])])Osite the tirejilace. At the back
of tile kitciien an two small rooms; that on the left waa
doubtless The Washhouse, and the other The Pantry.
Underneath the kitchen, ai)proached by a fliijht of steps
under the staircase to the upper storj', is a Small Cellar,
Dft. by 10ft., which is probably in its ori^nnal condition.
An oak staircase, of ten steps, leads to The Birthroom, which
faces the street, and was the best sleeping' ajiartment in
the house. It contains a tire])lace, and the walls and
Aviiidow are disfigured by countless thousands of names
scrawled over them. The bureau in the room came from
the Old College, which was taken down in \7W; the chairs
were gifts. The walls of this room have l)een silent
attendants upon the greatest joys and the greatest .sorrows
of the Shakespeare family, for they no doubt witnessed the
births of the eight chiMren of Joiin Shakesjieare, and
])resumalily the deatii of more than one of tliem. while the
])robabilities are very strong that i)oth the father and the
mother, as well as their daughter, Joan Hart, and lier
liusband, die<l in this room. In the Room at the Back,
which originally formed two small bedrooms, is an oil
I>ainting of the poet, which closely resemldes the bust
in the church, and was jirobably coj)ie<l from it.
It was formiTly the i)rf)perty of .Mr. \V. < ). Hunt,
whose family had long iu-en settled in the town, and
it is believed to have Itelonged to tlu' family of
Clopton, as after the death of Hdward Cloj)ton, it was
found in his Jiouse when purchased by the grandfather of
Mr. Hunt in 175'^. The face was disgui-sed with a iieard,
which Mr. Collins, a l.,ondon virtuoso, discovered did not
belong to the original, and the portrait was, thereforei
78 shakespeabe's land.
cleaned and repaired, and presented by Mr. Hunt to the
house. In this room are two of the ancient signboards,
announcing that "The immortal Shakespeare was born in
this house." From hence, a narrow stair, now closed, leads
up to The Attic. The westernmost rooms were probably-
appropriated to guests.
The Furniture. — None of the original furniture of the
house remains. Judged by the inventories which have
been preserved of similar dwellings, it must have been of a
very simple character. The walls of the principal rooms
would be hung with " painted cloths," consisting of
hangings of canvas, generally painted in oils, with
scriptural scenes or texts. The floors Avould be strewed
with rushes or sweet herbs. In the parlour would be
found a table, two or three chairs, several joint stools,
curtains for the window, a press, possibly a bench with a
cushion, a iire shovel, tongs, pothooks, and pothangers.
In the kitchen and washhouse— a table, cupboards, forms
and joint stools, pails, a bolting hutch, implements for
brewing, porridge dishes, trenchers, pewter platters and
spoons, saucers, salt cellars, candlesticks, pewter pots, a
frying pan, a dripping pan, and some brass pots. The food
was served up on flat platters of stout wood, and knives,
forks, glass utensils, jugs, and basins, would be conspicuous
by their absence, as well as desks, or anything connected
with the art of writing, of which John Shakespeare was
profoundly ignorant. The best bedroom would contain a
bedstead, a flock bed and a feather bed, a coverlet,
blankets, sheets, bolster, and pillows ; a little round table,
chests to contain linen, a chair, and joint stools.
The Museum.— The portion of the tenement which
formerly served John Shakespeare as a store and shop for
the wool in which he dealt, is now utilised as a Museum of
relics connected with the poet and his times. Among
those on the Lower Floor are an Old Desk from the
Grammar School, at which he is reputed to have sat ; the
Sign of the Falcon Inn, at Bidford, where he is said to
have caroused, the sign itself, however, being a work of
the last century ; traditional personal momentoes in the
form of a Glass Jug, from which Garrick took wine at the
jubilee of 1769, ])resented by Mr. Hunt ; a Sword, formerly
in the possession of Alderman Payton, and a gold Signet
Ring, probably worn on the forefinger, and having the
initials W.S. intertwined with the Elizabethan knot, much
used on seals of the period. Deeds in connection with the
Family: (1) August 20th, 1573, William Wedgwood to Richard
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 79
Hornbee, conveyance of a small piece of land adjoining
Guild Street, now thrown into the garden, drawn up by
Walter Roche, master at the Guild School, witnessed by
John Shakespeare, and bearing an impression of his seal ;
(2) an Indenture, made in the year 1596, proving that
Shakespeare's father, whose mark is attached to the deed,
resided in the house now shown as the poet's birthplace;
(3) Indenture of Assignment, in the year 1579, of property
belonging to the Ardens, at Aston CafttloT\ , (4) Conveyance,
by John and Mary Shakespeare, to Robert Webb, of
property in Snitterfield, 1597 : (5) Declaration in an
Action in the Borough, William Shakespeare v. Philip
Rogers, to recover the price of malt sold by the poet,
1604 ; (6) July 24th, 1605, Assignment of lease of the
Tithes of Stratford from Ralph Huband to Shakespeare, for
£440, being the largest single jiurchase ever made by
the poet ; (7) May 1st, 1602, Deed of feoffment from the
Combes to Shakespeare ; (8) Deed, with Autograph of
Gilbert Shakespeare, 1609 ; (9) a Settlement of Shakespeare's
estates, in 1639 ; Susan Hall, widow, and Thomas Nash and
Elizabeth, his wife, of the first part, George Nash and
Edward Rawlins of the second part, and Ceorge Townsend,
of Staple Inn, and John Stevens, of Staple Inn, of the
third part ; (10) Probate of the will of Lady Barnard. Books :
Several early editions of the poet's plays, none of a very
noteworthy character ; the first edition of the " Gesta
Romanorum," in all probability the only fragment extant
of the original edition; and a copy of Goldings translation
of " The XV. Bookes of P. Ouidius Naso, entituled Metamor-
phosis." On the Tipper Floor are bookcases, containing
various editions of Shakespeare's plays ; a cabinet con-
taining volumes of notes, illustrating the plays, collected
by Mr. Halliwell-Phillips ; seven drawers full of ancient
documents, leases, licenses, grants, conveyances, iSrc. ; a
letter, foinid among the Corporation Records by Malone, in
1793, addressed by Richard Quyney to Shakespeare, in the
year 1598, soliciting a loan of £30, the only letter to the
poet known to exist ; and the following portraits of the
poet: — A portrait in oil, on panel, formerly at P^ly Palace;
one in oil, on panel, said to be by Zucchero, but manifestly
not his work ; one in oil, on panel, from Vertue's engraving
of the Chandos portrait ^ ; a Photograph of the Stratford
1 Any one who examines the portrait, in the Dulwich Gallery, of Richard
Burbage, the famous actor, painted by himself, and compares it with the
Chandos portrait, will probably arrive at the conclusion that they were
painted by the same hand.
80 suakespeare's land.
Portrait, coloured by Alfi-ed Weigall, 1863 ; " Shakespeare
in his Study," an oil painting by Thotnas Keidand;
Photographic Copy of the proof impression of Droeshout's
Portrait of Shakespeare, 1623, from the unique original in
the Halliwell-Phillips collection ; a Pencil Drawing of
Shakespeare, by Fo?-d Maddoa-Brown, 1878 ; a Chromo-
lithograjjh of the Lumley portrait ; an original Pencil
Copy of the Chandos portrait, by Ozias Humphry, August,
1783 ; a Photograph of the Stratford portrait, coloured in
oil by Mr. Simon Collins ; a Photograph of the portrait in
the possession of Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis, Boston, U.S.A.,
1871 ; a Photograph of the Darmstadt Death Mask.
Engravings of the following portraits : Felton, Zoust,
Chandos,^ "Zucchero," Kingston, Janssens, Marshall,
Jennings, Somerville, Stace, and the Dunford and Zincke
forgeries. There is also an Oil Painting, by Sir J'shua
Reynolds, of Garrick, in the character of Kitelej', in " Every
Man in his Humour," painted about 1751 ; and another of
Mrs. Garrick, believed to be by Bouchet.
The Garden is planted with specimens of fruit trees and
flowers mentioned by the poet, and in the centre Avalk is
the base of the Old 14th century Market Cross of the town.
History of the Pamily.— In the 16th century, the
name of Shakespeare was by no means uncommon in
Warwickshire, as it is then to be found at Coventry,
Knowle, Rowington, Warwick, Snitterfield, Hampton
Lucy, and Stratford. John Shakespeare, the father of the
poet, was, in all probability, the son of Richard Shakes-
peare, a small farmer at Snitterfield. He appears to have
settled in Stratford about the year 1551, his business being
originally that of a glover, though, after his marriage, he
seems to have dealt largely in wool, purchased from
neighbouring farmers, and also to have sometimes traded
in other commodities, such as corn, meat, skins, and
leather. In 1556, his circumstances were sufficiently
prosperous to enable him to buy the woolshop, and in 1557,
he married Mary, the youngest and favourite daughter of
Robert Arden, a well to do farmer of Wilmcote, who
brought him a small property, called Asbies, as a dowry.
In the year of his marriage, he was made burgess and
ale-taster, after which, for some years, he appears to have
gradually ascended in the scale of municipal offices. In
1558, he was appointed one of the four petty constables,
and again in 1659. In 1559 and 1561, he was one of the four
" affeerors " or assessors of unprescribed penalties to the
Court Leet. In 1661, he was made Chamberlain or Treasurer
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. -'l
for two years ; in 1565, he became Alderman ; and in 1568,
he rose to be High Bailiff, equivalent to the modern oflice uf
mayor. In 1577, his circumstances, however, appear to
have begun to decline, as in the autumn of 1578, he
mortgaged his wife's estate of Asbies for £40, and in 1580,
he sold some of his property at Snitte^rfield. After 1581,
his name occurs in more than one list of recusants, which
leads to the supposition that, in heart, he had not
abandoned the old faith. In 1586, he was struck off the
roll of Aldermen, from want of ability to pay his dues,
and from inattention to his duties. In subsequent years,
he no doubt participated in the prosperity of his famous
son, as in 1592, we hnd him acting as an appraiser of
goods, which was an ofhce of trust, and in 1596, a coat of
arms was granted to him. lie died in 1601. By his wife,
who survived until 1608, he had eight children, who were
christened and died at the following periods: — (1) Joan
(the first), christened September 15th, 1558, died in infancy ;
(2) Margaret, christened December 2nd, 1562, died 15(io;
(3) William, christened April 26th, 1564, died 1616; (4)
Gilbert, christened October 13th, 1566, died probably
between 1609 and 1612 ; (5) Joan (the second), christened
April loth, 1559, died 1646, married William Hart, a hatter,
who died 1616; (6) Anne, christened September 28th, 1571,
died 1579; (7) Eichard, christened March 11th, 1574, died
at Stratford 1613 ; (8) Edmund, christened May 3rd, 1580,
became an actor, and died in London, December, 1607.
Joan Hart had three sons — William, born 1600, died 1639
without issue; Thomas, born 1605, died 1661, leaving a
surviving son named Thomas ; and Michael, born 1608,
died 1618. The subsequent history of the Harts, who
were eventually the sole survivors of this large family, is
given in the History of the Birthplace.
History of the Poet and His Family.— In 1568,
William Shakespeare was probably taught to read and
write, and, in 1571, he no doubt attended the Free School,
at which he presumably continued until 1577, when his
father's circumstances were on the decline. Tradition,
resting on the authority of Aubrey, a most inaccurate
writer, says that he was then apprenticed to a butcher,
and if so, possibly to his own father, who, from time to
time, dealt in meat ; but from the aptitude which he shows
in the use of law terms, it seems far more probable that
he acted as assistant to Walter Koche, the Ma-ster of
the Grammar School, who was also a scrivener, and who
drew several deeds in connection with Henley Street
82 shakespeaee's land.
properties. In November, 1582, he entered into a marriage
bond with Anne Hathaway, whose sole description is of
Stratford, maiden. These marriage bonds were then
regarded as solemn obligations, which precluded the
parties from contracting matrimony with anyone else.
The church in which the marriage was solemnised has not
been discovered. Looking at the circumstances in which
they were placed, it seems probable that the young couple
went to live in the westernmost rooms of the Birthplace.
On the 26th of May, 1583, a daughter, Susanna, was
baptised, and in 1585, his wdfe bore him a twin boy and
girl, who were respectively christened Hamnet and Judith
on the 2nd of February. Shortly after, this, Shakespeare
appears to have gone to London Tradition says, on
account of a poaching fray at Charlecote. In this there is
probably some truth, though his father's poverty, and his
own increasing family burdens, constituted still weightier
reasons for his seeking a new outlet for his talents. His
history at this period is involved in complete obscurity,
but there seems good reason to surmise that he went
abroad. The foundation for this supposition is the
apposite use which the poet makes in several of his plays,
notably in " Hamlet " and " Henry V.," of colloquial foreign
terms and phrases, which he could not have discovered in
any vocabulary of the period.' A company of English
players accompanied the Earl of Leicester in 1585, when
he went to the assistance of the United provinces at the
head of the troops which Queen Elizabeth despatched.
These players were subsequently sent on by the Earl to
the King of Denmark, and among' them wereThomas Pope
and George Bryan, whose names appear in the first Folio
1 In Act I. of " Hamlet," Shakespeare speaks of the swaggering v.pspring
reel, which is a correct description of the hiipjaw', the last and wildest
dance at Danish merry-makings. In Acts I., 11., and V., he speaks of the
Poles as Polacks, which is the Danish form. In the first scene of Act II.,
he uses Damlers for Danes, a pure Danish word. In the play scene of
Act IV., he employs the word, paiock, which is evidently pajk, pajke (old
"SoYse poil-a) a boy, a stripling. In Act V., the first grave-digger directs
the second to go t<5 Taughaa to fetch a stoup of liquor — Jocham,
which would, in English, be phonetically represented by Yav.gham,'ha.\iti%
in Denmark long been a very common and half jocular name applied to
the lower class of tavern keepers and proprietors of sailors drinking
houses. Further on, the poet speaks of Ophelia's virgin crants, the
chaplet worn by young unmarried Danish ladies, and Hamlet invites
Laertes to drink up Bsill, the largest fjord in the island of Zealand,
now termed Isse, but which, in i7th century maps, is invariably spelt
Isel. The French dialogiie in "Henry V. ," Act III., Scene "iv., is
colloquial in the highest degree, and elsewhere there are numerous
nstances of the Dramatist's marvellous command of foreign expressions.
SHAKESPEARE S LAND. 83
as actors with Shakespeare. The position which the poet
occupied would necessarily be a subordinate one, but a
quick and ready penman, such as he was, would, without
doubt, be of very great service in writing out parts for a
company of actors, many of whom, in all likelihood, were
indifferent scribes. In 1587, this troupe of players visited
Stratford and performed there, and about this period, a play
called " Hamlet " was produced in London, but no copy of it
has been preserved, nor is there any information regarding
its author. There seems indeed a probability that it was a
youthful and crude production on the part of Shakespeare,
and that, in later years, he converted it into a superb
tragedy. By the year 1591, Shakespeare had established
himself as a successful dramatist, and thenceforward his
prosperity increased. In 1596, he had the misfortune to
lose his son, Hamnet, Avho was buried on the 11th of
August. In the following year, 1597, he bought Xew
Place. On the 5th of June, 1607, his eldest daughter,
Susanna, was married to Dr. John Hall, a physician, of
Stratford, having a great practice in Yi arwickshire
and the neighbouring counties. Dr. Hall died November
25th, 1635, aged sixty, and Mrs. Hall died July
11th, 1649. A daughter, named Elizabeth, was born
of this marriage, and baptised February 21st, 1608 ; this
daughter was married April 22nd, 1626, to Thomas Nashe,
Esq., son of Anthony Nashe, Esq., of Welcombe. He died
on April 4th, 1647, and was buried on the following day.
His widow was subsequently married, on June 5th, 1649, at
Billesley, near Stratford, to her second husband, John
Barnard, Esq., of Abington, near Northampton, who was
three years her senior, and was knighted in 1661. She
died February 17th, 1670, and was the last of the direct
descendants of the poet. Shakespeare's second daughter,
Judith, was married February 10th, 1616, to Thomas Quiney,
a younger son of Richard Quiney, an old friend of the
family. Judith's husband became a vintner in High
Street, and, after some years, fell into loose habits of
business, from which his trade suffered. In 1652, he
removed to London, and died sometime after 1655 ; his wife
survived him, and was buried February 9th, 1662. Three sons
were born of this marriage — Shakespeare, liaptized Novem-
ber 23rd, 1616, buried May 8th, 1617 ; Richard, born 1618,
died 1639 ; and Thomas, born 1619, died 1639. Shakespeare's
wife died August 6th, 1623. No memorial exists of the
burial place of John Shakespeare, or his wife, or their
grandson, Hamnet.
84 - Shakespeare's land.
Quitting the Birthplace, and proceeding eastwards up
Henley Street, we come, at the corner of Bridge Street and
High Street, to a house formerly called The Cage, which, as
an inscription upon it shows, was, for tliirty-six years, the
residence of Judith, youngest daughter of the poet, and
her husband, Thomas Quiney, who carried on tlie occupa-
tion of a vintner. The name of The Cage arose from the
fact that a lock-up previously occupied the site of the
house. Proceeding down High Street, on the left hand
side, in the window of a Chemist's shop at No. 3, is a Brass
Dial, from the garden of New Place, and a Brass Lock,
from the house. On the opposite side of the way, near
Ely Street, is The Ancient House, a notewortliy specimen of
16th century domestic architecture, exibiting, on its
face, the date 1596. The bressumers, framework, and
bargeboards of the front, which terminates in an OA'er-
liiuiging gable, are elaborately carved, and tlie upper
windows, which project, are supported by ornamental
corbels. This house was built by Thomas Kogers, an
Alderman of Stratford, whose daughter, Katheriue, married
John Harvard, of St. Saviour's Southwark, from whom
sprang John Harvard, the founder of the American College.
At the corner of Sheep Street, is the Town Hall, a
commonplace building of the Tuscan order, erected in
1768, and occupying the site of an older structure, built
in 1633. In a niche at the north end, is a Statue of
Sliakes]3eare, made at Garrick's expense, to decorate the
amphitheatre used at the Jubilee of 1769, and afterwards
presented by him to the Corporation. On the first floor is
a fine room, 60ft. by 30ft., witli a large ante-room. At
the soiith end is a Aery fine whole length painting, by
Gaivshorow/h, of David Garrick leaning against a pedestal,
on Avhich stands a bust of Shakespeare ; it was restored in
1885. Facing this is a portrait of Shakespeare, painted by
Benjamin Wilson in 1769. Both these pictures were
presented by Garrick. There are also in the room, a
portrait of Queen Anne, copied from the picture at
Warwick Castle by Murray ; a fine portrait, ]:)ainted by
Romney, of John Frederic, third Duke of Dorset, (died
1799), 'Lord of the Manor, and High Steward of the
Borough at the time of the Jubilee, presented by his
Duchess to the Corporation ; " A Family Tea Party," by
Hogarth ; and a picture of " Falstaff turned out of the
Buck Basket," by Kidd. In the Mayor's Parlour, is a very
characteristic portrait of Mrs. Hitchman, an old Cook and
Custodian of the Hall, in the latter half of the last century,
o
c
shakespeabe's land. 85
painted by a local artist named Edicai-d Grubb,^ (1740-1816),
a sculptor by profession. The Corijoration possess four
very interesting Silver Gilt Maces, the earliest probably
dating from the end of the 15th century.
AVe next proceed to the site of New Place, at the junction
of Chajiel Street and Chapel Lane. The mansion which
originally existed on this site,, was built for Sir Hugh
Clopton, in the reign of Henry YII. It was probably the
most important in the town, being styled the Great House
in the will of Sir Hugh. In 1563, it was sold to William
Bott, and resold, in 1570, to William Underbill. In 1597, it
Avas purchased from tlie Underliills by Shakespeare for
£60, a sum which, from its smallness, suggests that the
house must have been out of repair. Shakespeare restored
and altered it to suit his own views, and changed the name
to New Place, by which it was afterwards known. The
house then had attached to it two gardens— a great
garden, in which the poet planted an orchard, and a
smaller one near the house. There Avere also two barns.
The famous mulberry tree Avas probably placed in the
small garden, near the back of the house, in 1609, when a
Frenchman, named Verton, distributed a large number of
these trees in the Midland (bounties. Garrick, Macklin,
and Dr. Delany, are said to have been entertained under
this tree, in 1742, by Sir Hugh Clopton. Between 1598 and
1609, the house seems to have been in the occupancy of
Thomas Greene, the Town Clerk, who claimed to be a
cousin of Shakespeare, the poet himself, during this time,
being probably principally resident in Loudon, where he
owned a house in Blackfriars. His wife's household
management must have been indifferent, as he does not
seem to have settled down to domestic life in Stratford
until his daughter was married, and able to manage his
house. Before his death, he appears to have arranged to
confide his wife to her care, her love for her mother,
judging from the epitaph she placed upon her tomb,
apparently justifying the poet in adopting this course.
In 1614, tiiere is an entry in the Chamberlain's accounts of
"one quart of sack and one quart of claret wine, given to
the preacher at New Place," which shoAvs tliat a Puritan
minister was a guest there, on the invitation of Shakes-
peare, or of his son-in-laAv, Avho had Puritan tendencies.
On the 23rd of April, 1616, Shakespeare died in this house.
1 a very ingenious man to whom many monumental tablets in tlie
church are due. He was also an excellent wood carver and a self-taught
.portrait painter of considerable ability, though crude in style.
86 shakespeahe's land.
The property descended to his daughter, Susanna, and her
mother probably died here in 1623, as well as her husband,
John Hall, in 1635. On the 11th of July, 1643, Henrietta
Maria, Queen of Charles I., arrived in the town at the-
head of 3,000 foot and 1,500 horse, with 150 waggons, and a
train of artillery. She took up her quarters at New Place,
and left on the l3th, escorted by Prince Eupert, who met
her, at the head of another body of troops, and conducted
her to the plain of Kineton to meet the King. Mrs. Hall
died here July 11th, 1649, and the property then passed
to her daughter, Mrs., afterwards Lady Barnard. The
latter died in 1670, and it was sold by her trustees to Sir
Edward Walker, who died in 1677. It then devolved on
his daughter, Barbara, the wife of Sir John Clopton.
Lady Clopton died in 1692, when the ownership passed to
her son, Edwin, who, in 1698, gave the property to his
father. Sir John. Sir John Clopton, by deed, gave the
place to his younger son. Sir Hugh, who repaired and
embellished it, and constructed a modern front to it. He
died here in 1751, and, in 1753, it was sold by his son-in-
law and executor, to the Keverend Francis Gastrell, Vicar
of Frodsham, in Cheshire. This individual, in a fit of rage
at the solicitations of visitors to see the mulberry tree,
caused it to be cut down, and the greater part of it was-
bought by Mr. Sharp, a local watchmaker, who converted it
into various nick-nacks. Mr. Gastrell being compelled to pay
poor's rates on the house while he was absent on clerical
duty at Lichfield, for a part of the year, during which,
however, his servants inhabited it, in a further fit of rage,
declared that he would deprive the Corporation of the power-
of assessing it, and, in 1759, caused the house to be entirely
pulled down, sold the materials, and left Stratford. In
1775, the site was sold by his widow, and after subse-
quently passing through several hands, it was purchased
by public subscription, in 1861, and vested in Trustees.
The grounds are now converted into an ornamental
garden, which is open to the public during the summer
months. The well from which the house obtained water-
still remains, and the form of some of the rooms may
readily be traced, one in the rear with a bay window,,
having probably been an important one.
At the side of New Place is a house termed Nash's House,
now converted into a Museum, which contains, among
other objects, an ancient Shovel-board, 16ft. 4in. long, and
3ft. wide, from the Falcon Tavern, opposite New Place ;.
a Photographic Copy of the proof impression of the-
Shakespeare's land. 87
original portrait of Shakespeare, engraved by Droeshout,
1623; an Engraving from the Felton portrait ; the Songs
of Shakespeare, illustrated by the Etching Club ; a Stone
Mullion, which belonged to a window of Shakespeare's
house. New Place, in 1597, discovered in the excavations ;
two Chairs, formerly in New Place ; an Elizabethan Stand
Table ; an ancient Joint Stool ; Chairs from Abington
Abbey ; a piece of Old Oak from the House of St. Mary,
adjoining the churchyard gate, pulled down in 1866; a
variety of articles discovered in the excavations at New
Place, including a very curious old Knife of the Shakes-
pearean period, a Candlestick of a later date, fragments of
cornices, Tobacco Pipes of the 17th century, Fossils, pieces
of ancient glass. Earthenware, China, Coal, Iron, and a
Portrait of a lady, formerly preserved at the Birthplace,
said to be a portrait of Charlotte Clopton, regarding whose
death a tragical legend is related. Investigation, however,
shows that no traces, either of the name, or of the event,
are to be found in the annals of the Clopton family. It is
not known who inhabited this house in the poet's time, but
it was subsequently the property of Thomas Nash, who
married Elizabeth Hall, Shakespeare's granddaughter, and
who bequeathed it to her. After her death, in 1670, it
again reverted to the Nash family, and was, in 1861,
purchased with New Place, and added to that property
The front of the house has been twice reconstructed since
the days of Shakespeare, and the interior has been
modernised, but the beams of the great chimneys, and
portions of the back, evidently formed part of the original
iDuilding. The marks of the gable end of Shakespeare's
house are plainly visible at the south end.
Next to this house, is the House of Julius Shaw,^ one of
the witnesses to the will of Shakespeare, and doubtless
an intimate friend. The front has been completely
modernised, but the timber framework of the interior
is evidently of ancient date, as well as the gable at the end
of the outhouses. A brick wall separates the premises
from the poet's "great garden." The house next but one
to Julius Shaw's was, in 1647, the Eesidence of Thomas
Hathaway, the descendant of the family of Shakespeare's
wife.
Opposite to New Place is the Guild Chapel, dedicated to
the Holy Cross, and anciently the place of worship of the
1 a view of the house next to Julius Shaw's has been erroneously
published, and extensively circulated as that of Julius Shaw.
88 shakespeabe's land.
fraternity or Guild of the Holy Cross, the Blessed Virgin,,
and St. John the Baptist, associated for the observance of
religious rites among the members, as well as for the relief
of sucli of them as were poor and necessitous, and who
yearly held a great feast, to which all the members sat
down. This Guild was in existence as early as the reign of
Edward I. The chapel appears to have been originally
erected in the 14th century, the chancel being of that date..
The nave was rebuilt towards the end of the reign of
Henry VII., by Sir Hugh Clopton, the windows being
modelled on those in the choir of the church. Over the
north porch is a niche, which doubtless contained a statue ;,
beneath it are two compartments, in each of which is the
figure of an angel supporting two shields, on which are
carved the arms of the L'ity of Loudon, and the Merchants
of the Woolstaple, with those of Sir Hugh Clopton ; and
another shield— viz., a fesse vair between three leopard's
faces, generally supposed to be the original arms of the
borough. The nave is lighted on each side by four Perpen-
dicular windows of four lights each, with a transom ;.
between each window is a canopied niche of the height of
the transom. Tlie walls were formerly decorated with
frescoes, which were discovered in 1804, when the chapel
was repaired; thej' represented the History of the Holy
Cross, the Martyrdom of Thomas jx Becket, the Combat
between St. George and the Dragon, and the Day of
Judgment. Those in the chancel were destroyed, but
those in the nave were re-whitewashed over. On the
west of the arch of the inner door is a figure with
mutilated legs, bearing a shield. The east window, of five
lights, is filled with stained glass, representing scenes in the
Resurrection. Shakespeare must have been familiar with
the chapel, both as a l)oy and as a man. As a boy, he
attended the school attached to it, and, in his later years,
it must continually have greeted his gaze from the-
windows of his house, and from his garden. There was a
pew in it attached to his house, and the chapel bell must
often have summoned him to service.
Next to the chapel, on the south side, is the ancient
Guild Hall, a half-timbered structure, originally built in
1296, by Robert de Stratford, subsequently Bishoi^ of
Chichester and Lord Chancellor of England, but greatly
altered in the 15th century. It was devoted to the use of
the fraternity of the Holy Cross, and, after the dissolution
of this Guild, it was, in 1553, granted by Edward VI. to
the principal inhabitants of the borough, and became the-
SHAKESPEARE S LAND. 89
place of meeting of the Town Council, until this body
took up its quarters in the present Town Hall. A portion
of the north end, formerly partitioned off to form a Fire
Engine House, was, in 1892, happily restored to the hall,
the coating of rough cast, which then covered the exterior
of the building, being also removed At the south end,
underneath a modern wainscoting, some traces of old
frescoes were discovered, in 1890, in the plaster panels
between the upright timbers. Tlie centre panel contains
the figure of the Saviour on the Cross, with the Virgin on
one side, and, doubtless, St. John on the other. Beyond
these, in the adjoining panels, are coats of arms, in which
leopards and fleurs de lys are clearly visible. In this hall,
w^ithout doubt, Shakespeare first made acquaintance with
the drama, as it was here that the companies of itinerant
players, who then visited the town, alwaj's gave their first
performances. These travelling companies were invariably
under tlie protection of some great nobleman, whose name
they took, the penalty for being without such a protection
being the punishment of the offenders as rogues and
vagabonds, which meant that, for a first offence, they were
to be " grievously whipped and burnt tlirough the gristle
of the right ear with a hot iron," and for a second offence
they were to be treated as felons. While John Shakespeare
was bailiff, in 1569, he granted licenses to perform in the
town, both to the players of the Queen, and to those of the
Earl of Worcester, and doubtless patronised them with the
members of his family. In 1573, 1576, 1577, and 1680,
several companies of players gave entertainments in the
town, and were duly rewarded by the Town Chamberlain,
In 1587, the Earl of Leicester's players performed here, and it
seems highly probable that Shakespeare accompanied them
from London. Next to the hall in a room on the right, called
the Armoury, is a quaint fresco of the Eoyal Arms of
England, with the date 1660. The room contains some
good Jacobean panneling, and one of the doors is furnished
with an ancient and well preserved " bobbin latch."
Above the Guild Hall is the Grammar School, founded in
the reign of Henry VI., by a priest named Thomas Jollyffe,
who was a native of the town, and a member of the Guild.
On the dissolution of the Guild, in 1536, its revenues were
appropriated by the Crown, and continued in this condition
until 1553, when Edward VI. granted a Charter of Incor-
poration to the principal inhabitants, and restored the
houses and lands taken from the old Guild. A winding
staircase leads up from the Armoury to the Head-master's
90 shakespeaee's land.
Koom, formerly the Council Chamber, on the walls of
which are two interesting frescoes of large roses, probably
painted at the accession of Henrj' TIL, to commemorate
the union of the rival houses of York and Lancaster. The
room has a fine oak roof, and contains a good Jacobean
table. Adjoining it, approached by a short flight of steps,
is the ancient Record Room, in which, in 1887, a large
store, amounting to some 3,000 documents, was found.
These have been classified and arranged by Mr. E. Savage.
From the Head-master's Room, a door leads into the
Mathematical Room, which, with the Latin Room, is
immediately over the Guild Hall. Both these rooms have
high open timber roofs, with enormous tie-beams. At the
lower end of the Latin Room stood the desk, now at the
Birthplace, known as Shakespeare's, and which was a
second master's desk. If the statement of Aubrey is to be
relied upon, that Shakespeare was at one period a school-
master in the country, it is possible that he may for a time
have been a jimior master here, and that the desk may thus
have become associated with him. In 1553, AYUliam
Smart was appointed schoolmaster, his successors were, in
1570, Walter Roche ; in 1577, Thomas Hunt; and in 1580,
Thomas Jenkins.
Adjoining the school are the Almshouses, in which
twenty-four poor members were maintained by the Guild,
prior to its dissolution. In the reign of Edward TL, they
were re-appointed, and in the present day there are twelve
male and twelve female inmates, each of whom has a
separate room.
Retracing our steps along Chapel Lane, by the side of
the garden of ]S^ew Place, we arrive at the Shakespeare
Memorial, an imposing and picturesque looking building
in the Early Elizabethan style, comprising a Library,
Picture Gallerv, Central Tower, and Theatre. The project
of erecting a S'ational Monumental Memorial to Shakes-
peare in the town of his birth was mooted at the
Tercentenary Festival, in 18&i, but remained unacted on
until the autumn of 1874, when Mr. Charles E. Flower
presented a site and £1,000, with the expression of a desire
that the monument should take the form of a Memorial
Theatre, the previous theatre, a small and incommodious
building, built in 1827, which stood in the garden of Xew
Place, having been pulled down in 1 872, for the purpose of
restoring its site to the garden. A committee was formed,
and, ha^-ing advertised for designs, unanimously selected
those of Messrs. Dodgson and Unsworth, of Westminster.
Shakespeare's land. 91
'The first stone was laid on the 23rd of April, 1877, and the
Theatre was inaugurated on the 23rd of April, 1879, the
Library and Picture Gallery on the 18th of April, 1881, and
the Tower was completed in October, 1883, and opened
shortly afterwards. The entire structure is of the most
substantial character, the walls of the main building
averaging 3ft. in thickness, and those of the tower 3ft. 6in.
The Library, on the ground floor, is fitted with oak presses,
intended to contain every procurable edition of Shakes-
peare's plays, and works associated with him, published in
any part of the globe. These latter include critical,
<;outroversial, bibliographical, biographical, historical,
histrionic, topographical, and antiquarian treatises, stage
histories, biographies of famous actors, and works bearing
upon the history of Stratford and its neighbourhood. A
very effective collection has already been made, but
donations are still much needed. An arched stone stair-
case of twenty-seven steps leads to the Picture Gallery on
the upper floor, and to the dress circle and stalls of the
theatre. This staircase is lighted by seven lancet windows,
filled with very artistic stained glass, by Bell, of London,
representing the seven ages of man, with a portrait of
Queen Elizabeth at the bottom, and Shakespeare at the top
of the staircase. The Picture Gallery is lighted by a glass
roof, and by a window at the north end. It already
contains the following collection of pictures :— " The Story
of the Cricket on the Hearth," Clothier ; " Miss Ada Rehan
as Katharina in ' The Taming of the Shrew,' " Hillary Bell ;
" Rosalind,"' W. S. Herrick ; " The Bashful Constant,"
Harloic ; " Romeo and Juliet," 5?-ow?z; "Macbeth and the
Witches," Martin; " Coriolanus " ; "Phelps as Hamlet,"
Crowley; " Buckingham and Wolsey (after Sir J. Gilbert) ;
" Macbeth and the Witches," Zuccarelh ; " Lady Macbeth,"
Sir T. Lazorence; "Julius Caesar," Fuseli: "The Tragic
Muse " (after Sir J. Reynolds) ; " The Return of Othello,"
Stoihard; "Titania Reposing," JRomney; "Lord Ronald
Gower," Millais. There is also a large collection of fine
engravings. A small door, on the landing beyond the
gallery, opens on a balcony, from which a charming view
of the river and the church is obtained. The Theatre,
which will hold between 800 and 900 persons, is admirably
designed, the view of the stage being uninterrupted, and
the acoustic properties and ventilation excellent. The
stage is 53ft. wide by 46ft. deep, and the prosceniimi
opening is 27ift. by 24^ft. The drop scene, by Beverley,
illustrates Elizabeth going in state to the opening of the
92 Shakespeare's land.
Globe Tlieatre. The Theatre is open for the performance
of Shakespeare's plays during the week in w-hich his
birthday falls, and at other times when yisited by
travelling dramatic companies. The inaugural representa-
tion took'place on the 23rd of April, 1879, when '■ Much
Ado about Nothing " was performed. Lady Martin, better
known as Helen Faucit. taking the character of Beatrice,
and Barry Sullivan that of Benedick. The Central Tower,
which contains the water tank and is 120ft. high, is
ascended by a staii-case of 122 steps, from the lobby outside
the dress circle. From the openings in the upper part
most attractive prospects of the surrounding country are
visible.
The ground to the north of the Memorial Buildings,
termed the Bancroft Garden,^ was laid out as a pleasure
ground, at the expense of the late Mr. Charles E. Fhacer.
and opened in 1867. In 1769, it formed the site of
the wooden Amphitheatre, in which the principal per-
formances connected with the Jubilee took place. The
south side has been converted into an Ornamental Garden,
attached to the Memorial Buildings. The most noticeable
object in it, immediately under the Theatre, is the tasteful
Shakespeare Monument, the gift of Lord Monald Goicer, by
whom the tigures were modelled. Shakespeare, in a
sitting attitude surmounts the ^Monument, and on the four
sides of the pedestal are figures respresenting Prince
Henry. Hamlet, Lady Macbeth, and Falstaff, all character-
istically arranged.
The space between the Memorial Garden and the Church
is occupied by the house and grounds of Avon Bank, which
was the residence of the late Mr. Charles E. Flower,
1830-1892, who will be long remembered for the unstinted
time and care he bestowed on the Memorial Buildings, and
the munificent contributions he made to their cost. The
side of the lane opposite to Avon Bank was the site of
the Festival Pavilion at the Tercentenary celebration.
A little further on is The Churcli, standing in an
eminently picturesque position on the banks of the Avon,
in the midst of tall elms, in which a colony of rooks have
made their home. The approach is by an avenue of
pollan^led lime trees, planted at equal distances on each side
of the walk, and the boughs of which interlace, admitting
fitful streaks of golden sunshine in charming counteraction
of the formal effect of the flagstones beneath. The church,
1 A corruption of " bank croft " or river meadow.
SHAKESPEAEBS' LAND. 93
which was formerly governed by a college or chapter of
priests, witli a dean at the head, and hence termed
collegiate, is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and consists of
a nave with aisles, transepts, chancel, north porch, and
central tower with a spire. The earliest parts of the
building, consisting of the walls of the tower, the north
aisle, transepts, and nave, are of the commencement of the
13th century, but subsequently so much altered as to lose
many of their original characteristics. The south aisle
was erected about 1332, by John de Stratford, who, about
the same time, made many alterations in the rest of the
fabric, and between 1465 and 1490, Thomas Balshall, warden
of the college, took down the old chancel and raised the
present choir. The porch was added at the close of the
15th century, and the stone spire, 83ft. in height, was
built in 1764, in place of a timber steeple, 42ft. high, which
had become decayed. The Tower, which is embattled,
with crocketted pinnacles at the angles, is 80ft. in height,
and is in three stages, lighted on each side by a circular
window, tilled with tracery. The principal entrance to
the church is by the north porch, which is buttressed and
embattled, the buttresses terminating in crocketted
finials. The upper portion contains a room which was
probably a muniment room, and is lighted by a Perpen-
dicular window of three lights, between two canopied
niches for statues. The ancient doors are backed with
panneled oak. Another entrance to the church is by an
arched doorway at the west end, over which, and
projecting into the %oest windotv, are three niches with
continuous crocketted canopies, which were evidently
designed to contain the figures of saints. The hand-
some Perpendicular west window is of nine liglits,
and is tilled with stained glass representing the
Twelve Apostles, and in the centre the Baptism of
Christ. The nave, which is 103ft. in length and 50ft.
in height, has a good low pitched panneled oak roof,
and is divided from the aisles on each side by six
Early Decorated arches, springing from hexagonal piers.
The Clerestory was of the same period, but was pulled
down at the end of the 15th century, and replaced by the
present one, consisting of twelve large lantern windows,
each of three lights, which almost give the effect of one
continuous perforation of the wall. The walls between
the windows and the nave arches are covered with panel
■work. The north aisle is lighted by four three-light
windows, each differing in the details of the heads. This
94 SHAKESPEAEKS LAND.
aisle was originally much narrower, and was enlarged at
the time the south aisle was built. At the east end was a
chapel, dedicated to the Holy Virgin, the altar of which
seems to have had an ascent of three steps ; the space is
now occupied by the Clopton monuments. The south aisle
is also lighted by four three-light windows, each differing
in its details. This aisle was rebuilt, circa 1332, by John
de Stratford. At the east end, he founded a chapel,
dedicated to St. Thomas i\ Becket, the ascent to which
remains ; the altar slab, still bearing three of the consecra-
tion crosses, was discovered in 1890, underneath the
pavement, and has been removed to the chancel, where
it now forms the "mensa" of the high altar. In the
south wall are the remains of a triple sedilia. The organ
is now placed partly over the tower arch, and partly in
this aisle. At the east end of the noHh aisle are several
Monuments. The first is a High Tomb of carved free
stone, with numerous panels, formerly filled with brazen
shields of arms, long ago destroyed. The slab does not
bear either effigy or inscription. From the arms on the
arch above it, it is believed to have been intended for the
burial place of Sir Hugh Cloidon, Lord Mayor of London in
1492, who desired in his will that if he died at Stratford,
he should be buried on this spot. He, however, died in
London, and was buried in St. Margaret's Lothbury.
Against the north wall is another tomb, with recumbent
effigies of William Clopton and his wife, Anne, daughter of
Sir George Griffeth. The husband is represented in armour,
bareheaded, his head reclining on his helmet, with a lion
couchant at his feet. The wife is represented in a dark
low bodiced robe, with a white under bodice, trimmed with
gold, and a large ruff round the neck. The hair is turned
back at the forehead under a close fitting hood with a
slightly peaked front ; a veil hangs down behind, decorated
with a fillet formed of a gold cordon. Round the verge of
the slab is the following inscription : — " Here lyeth the
bodies of Willa. Clopton, Esquier, and Anne his wyfe,
daughter of Sr George Griffeth, Knight, wch, Wm. decessed
the xviij th of April, 1.592 ; the said Anne, decessed the
xvij th of September, 1596." Above this are figures of
their children, Elizabeth, Lodowicke (both in swathing
bands),^ Joyce (subsequently Countess of Totnes), Margaret,*
Wyllm (in swathing bands),^ Anne, and Wyllm. Beneath
1 These represent that the children died in| infancy, ^ Margaret
Clopton,' who was born in 15(53, seems in her death to have been the
SHAKESPEARE'S LANT). 95
them are the following inscriptions :: — "^The Right
Honorable Dame Joyce, Covntesse of Totnes, their Eldest
Daughter, caused this their Monument to be reparied and
beautified Anno 1630." " Sr. John Clopton, Knight, their
Great-Grandson, caused this again, & ye rest of these
Monuments to be repaired & beautify ed, Ano Dni 1714."
These memorials were again restored in 1892 by Sir
Arthur Hodgson. To the west of this tomb, on the
north wall, is a Monument to Sir John Clopton, who
died April 18th, 1719, aged 80; and Barbara, his
wife, daughter and heiress of Sir Edward Walker, who died
December 10th, 1692, aged 47. On the east wall, at
the foot of the tonab, is a Monument to Sir Echoard Walker,
the purchaser of New Place from the trustees of the Halls,
who died February 20th, 1676-7. He was Secretary of
War to the Earl of Arundel, and afterwards served King
Charles I. in the same capacity ; he also assisted Lord
Clarendon in his " History of the Rebellion "in the part
relating to military transactions. Next, against the east
wall, is the imposing Monument of George Carew, Earl of
Totness and Baron of Clopton ; and Joice, his Countess,
whose effigies, in coloured alabaster, recline under a large
ornamented arch, supported by Corinthian columns, and
decorated with numerous figures of angels and cherubim,
as well as with various warlike insignia in bas-relief,
emblematical of the Earl's office as Master of the Ordnance
under King James I. The Earl is represented in armour,
over which is his mantle of estate, consisting of a crimson
velvet robe, trimmed with white fur ; his coronet is on his
head, and a lion couchant at his feet. The Countess is
attired in a robe of white fur with a tippet, and has a ruff
round her neck, and her coronet on her head. Above, with
antelopes as supporters, is the Carew Shield, with fifteen
quarterings, and the motto, "Tvtvs svb vmbra leonis."'
On other parts of the monument are the arms of Clopton
and Griffeth. The first inscription on the monument is to
Sir Thomas Stafford, the Secretary and natural son of the
Earl, who desired to be buried near him, but whose burial
place is unknown. The next is to the Earl, who died
March 27th, 1629, aged 73 ; and the last to his Countess,
Joice, who died February 14th, 1636, aged 78. This tomb
was the work of Marshall, a sculptor, of Fetter Lane. On
prototype of Ophelia. She is said to have drowned herself for love iu the
grounds of Cloptou House, and, as no record of her interment appears in
the church register, it seems probable tliat she was bm-ied with " maimedi
rites." 3 Safe under the shadow of the lion.
i)() shakespeabe's land.
small monument to the right, is a representation of a
■Aoman kneeling at a prie dieu, with an inscription to
Mrs. Amy Smith, for forty years waiting gentlewoman to
■< I Ki Countess of Totness, who died September I3th, 1626,
-ed 60, and was l)uried here at her request, and as a token
' affection on the part of the Countess, who also erected
111 ' monument. Above this is a tablet to Thomas Clapton,
. ho died August 22nd, 1643, and his wife, liglentine,
daughter of John Keyte, of Ebrington, who died November
22nd, 1642. Passing out of the nave, it will be noticed
'hat the centre of the tower arch is 4ft. to the north of the
\is of the nave. Various fanciful interpretations have
^■en given of this. Inside the staircase turret are some
interesting fragments of Early English work. In the
C''ntre of the east wall of the noith transept is a
'i- gmental arch, which formerly contained an altar,
id next to it is a piscina. In the east and west
'. alls of this transept are also traces of former
1 ches ; that on the east probably led into a north chancel
:isle, afterwards converted into a charnel house. This
darnel or bone house Avas nearly the height of the
chancel, and 30ft. long by 15ft. wide. It contained a vast
collection of bones, thrown up when fresh graves were
'I'lg, and deposited here during a long period. The
building having become ruinous, was taken down in 1800,
but evidence of its existence was obtained in 1882, when
gliastly piles of skulls were discovered on the site.
Horror of this place no doubt prompted the lines on
Sliakespeare's tomb. In the east wall of the south
transept is another segmental arch, which enclosed an
jiltar. On an arch in the west wall of this transept, over
a High Tomb to Richard Hill, an alderman of Stratford, is
in inscription, with a text from Job in Hebrew, a sentence
ill Greek, succeeded by some Latin lines, and the following
a English : —
Heare borne, heare lived, heare died, and bvried heare,
Lieth Richard Hil, thrise bailif of tliis boriow ;
Too niatrones of good fame, he man-ied in Godes feare,
And now releast in joi, he reasts from worldlie sorrow.
Heare lieth intombed the corps of Ricliarde Hill,
A woollen draper beeing in his time ;
Whose virtves live, whose fame dooth florish stil,
Thovgh hee desolved be to dvst and slime.
A mirror he, and pateme mai be made.
For svch as shall svckcead him in that trade ;
He did not vse to sweare, to glose,i eather faigne,
His brother to defr avde in barganinge ;
1 To flatter, to wheedle.
Shakespeare's land. 97
Hee woold not strive to get excessive gaine
In ani cloath or other kinde of thinge :
His servant, S. I. this trveth can testifie,
A witness tliat beheld it with mi eie.
There is no date on the tomb, but the register states that
Richard Hill was buried December 17th, 1693. Over the
south window, of five lights, which is Decorated, with a
circular head, is a stone, on which is carved " N.T. E. H.,
1589," which are probably the initials of the church-
wardens, with the year in which the transept was
repaired. Underneath the window are two aumbries, with
doors. The Choir is divided from the transepts by an
elegant Oak Screen, of late 15th century work. It is
lighted on each side by five handsome windows, each of
four lights, with a transom, and an east window of seven
lights. On each side of the east window are canopied
niches, curiously coloured, having bats sculptured on the
brackets, on which the sun produces singular effects when
it shines on them. The windows are many of them filled
with stained glass of a mediocre character, the best being
the first window from the west end on the south side, and
another on the opposite side, representing the " Seven Ages
of Man," the gift of American friends. On the east side of
the altar is a fine quadruple sedilia, with a piscina. On
each side of the west end is a range of stalls, which
formerly belonged to the ancient choir, the miserere seats
of which are carved with a great variety of grotesque
designs. The doorways on each side have crocketted ogee
shaped hood mouldings, terminating in finials ; that on
the north side has, at the springs, carvings of " The
Annunciation " and " St. Christopher." A blocked-up
doorway on this side formerly led into the charnel house.
On the north wall is a marble tablet, with a figure of a
mourning female, in bas-relief, by Wesbnacott, to the
memory of James Aldborough Dennis, who died February,
1838. Further along, against the lower part of the second
window from the east, is the Monument of Shakespeare,
erected, as the verses of Leonard Digges, in the first
edition of the plays, show, at some period before the year
1623. It consists of a bust under an arch, the entablature
of which is supported by two Corinthian columns of black
marble, with gilded capitals and bases. Above this, and
surmounted by a death's head, are the poet's arms, with
the motto, " Mon sanz droict." On each side is a
naked cherub in a sitting position, that on the left
holding a spade in his left hand, and that on the right,
E
98 SHAKESPEARES LAND.
whose eyes are closed, having in his left hand an inverted
torch, while his right rests on a scull, as emblems of
mortality. The bust was originally coloured to resemble
life, in accordance witli the fashion of the period at which
it was erected, but, in 1793, it was painted white, at the-
request of Edmund Malone, the critic (1741-1812), which
brought on him the following well merited castigation
which was inscribed in the visitor's book in 1810.
" stranger to whom this Monument is shewn,
Invoke the Poet's curse upon Malone
Whose mecWliiig zeal liis barbarous taste betrays
And smears his tombstone as he marr'd his plays."
In 1861, this coat of paint was removed, and sufficient of
the original colour was found underneath to justify the
restoration of the whole. The eyes are of a light hazel, the
hair and beard auburn. The dress consists of a scarlet
doubler, slashed on the breast; the lower part of the
cushion in front of the bust is crimson, and the upper part
green with gilt tassels. Underneath are the following
inscriptions :—
Jvdicio Pylivm, genio Socratem, arte Maronem,
Terra tegit, Popvlvs masret, Olympvs habet.i
Stay piisseuger, why goest thov by so fast ?
Read, if thov canst, whom enviovs death hath plast.
Within this monvment : Shakspeare, with whome :
Qvicke natvre dide ; whose name doth deck ys. tombe
Far more then cost ; sith all yt. he hath writt,
Leaves living art, bvt page to serve his witt.
Obiit. Ano. Doi. 1616. jEtatis 53. Die 23. Ap.
The bust which is a mediocre production, was executed by
Gerard Johnson, a sculptor, living near St. Saviour's
Church, Southwark, the face, in the opinion of Sir Francis
Chantrey and many other sculptors, being modelled from
a cast taken after death. From the height at which the
monument is placed, the features are foreshortened, and
have, consequently, a distorted appearance, looked at from
below. Carefully studied, however, especially in profile,,
the lineaments will be found to possess a decided nobility
of expression, combined with handsome characteristics.
Immediately below the monument, within the altar
rails, are the gravestones of the Shakespeare family,
who had a right to burial here, owing to the purchase of
the great tithes by the poet. The first is that ol Shakes-
peare's wife, the inscription on which is engraved on a small
1 In vrisdom a Nestor, in genius a Socrates, in art a Virgil.
The earth shrouds him, the nation mourns him, Olympus guai-d& him..
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 99
brass plate, let into the stone :— " Heere lyeth interred
the body of Anne, wife of William Shakespeare, who
depted this life the 6. day of Avg : 1623. being of the
age of 67 yeares."
" Vbera, tu mater, tti lac vitamq. dedisti,
VfB milii pro tanto miuiere Saxa dabo !
Quam maUem, amoiieat lapideni, bonus Angel' ore'
Exeat Christi Corpus iuiago tiia
Sed nil vota valent, veuias cito Christe, resiirget,
Clausa licet tuimilo mater, et astra iJetet." i
Next comes the slab over the poet's grave, with these lines :
" Good freud for lesvs sake forbeare
To digg the dvst encloaised heare ;
Bleste be ye. man yt. spares thes stones,
And cvrst be he yt. moves my bones."
Adjoining is the grave of Thomas Nashe, the first husband
of Shakespeare's granddaughter, with the following
epitaph : — " Heere resteth ye- body of Thomas Nashe, Esq.
he . mar . Elizabeth, the davg : & heire of John Halle, gent.
He died Aprill 4. A. 1647. aged 53.
" Fata maueiit omnes, hunc non ■virtute carentem
Vt neq divitiis. abstulit atra dies ; —
Abstnlit ; at referet lux vltima ; siste viator,
Si peritui'a paras, per male parta peris." 2
Next to this is the resting place of John Hall, who married
the poet's daughter ; on the slab is —
& co-heire
" Heerelyeth ye body of John Hall, Gent : he man- : Svsanna, ye davghter a
■of Will. Shakespeare, Gent, hee deceased Nover 25 Ao. 1635, aged 60."
" Hallius hie situs est medica celeberimus arte,
Expectans regni gaudia Iteta Dei.
Dignus erat meritis qui Nestora vinceret annis,
In teiTis omnes, sed rapit asqua dies ;
Ne tumulo, qui desit adest fidissima conjux,
Et vitse Comitem nunc quoq ; mortis habet." 3
^ Mother (to me), thou gavest thy breast, and mUk and life.
Woe me ! For such gi-eat gifts I give a tomb !
I would far rather that the good angel should from its mouth the stoue
remove
That like Christ's body, thy image might come forth.
But vain are wishes, Mayest thou come quickly Christ, (and thou)
My mother though entombed, shall rise again and seek the stars.
2 Death awaits all, this man in virtue not deficient
Nor yet in wealth, the fatal day bore oft" ; —
It bore him off ; but the last day shall bring him back ; traveller stay.
If thou dost store up things that perish, through them acquired in
evil thou dost die.
3 Hall lies here, renowned in the healing art.
Awaiting the delightful joys of Heaven.
Worthy was he, in years to out-do Nestor
But all on earth, impartial time bears oft" ;
That nothing should be wanting in his tomb, his faithful wife is here.
The partner of his life he now too has in death.
100 shakespeabe's land.
Last of all comes the inscription to Susanna, Shakespeare's
eldest daughter: — "Heere lyeth ye. body of Svsanna, wife
to John Hall Gent : ye- davghter of William Shakespeare^
Gent. Shee deceased ye. 11th of Jvly, Ao. 1649, aged 66."
" Witty above her sexe, but that's not all,
Wise to Salvation was good Mistris Hall,
Something of Shakespere was in that, but this
Wholy of him with whom she's now in bUsse.
Then, Passenger, ha'st ne're a teare,
To weepe with her that wept with all ?
That wept, yet set herselfe to chere
Them up with comforts cordiall.
Her Love shall live, her mercy spread.
When thou hast ne're a teare to shed."
These verses, happily preserved by Dugdale, were, about
the year 1707, erased in order that an inscription to one
Eichard Watts, not in any way related to the family,
might be carved on the stone. This in its turn was
deservedly obliterated, and the original lines restored in
1836. Close to the north wall is the High Tomb of Thoinas
Balshall, D.D., the founder of the choir, who became
warden of the College in 1465, and died in 1491. The
monument is much defaced ; the slab formerly contained
a figure in brass, and an inscription ran round the verge.
The initials t. b. with the letters i h u may still be traced
on several parts of the tomb. The south side, which is
divided into five panels, contains the following episodes
relating to the death of Christ :— " The Scourging," " The
Way to the Crucifixion," "The Entombment," and "The
Resurrection." On the north wall, next to Shakespeare's
monument, is a monument with two busts in white
marble, one of Richard Co^nbe, and the other of Judith
Combe, his intended wife, who died August 11th, 1649, and
is commemorated by a pathetic epitaph. On the north
side of the altar, under an arch supported by Corinthian
columns, is the elfigy of John Combe, the friend of Shakes-
peare, habited in a long gown, with a book in his hand.
The inscription records his death on the 10th July, 1614,
and a list of his charitable bequests ; the monument being
also the work of Gerard Johnson. Combe lived at the
College, which he had purchased, and a very dubious
tradition chronicles that Shakespeare, suspecting him of
usurious practices, composed the following satirical epitaph
on him some years before his death : —
Ten in the hundred lies here engrpved,
Tis a hiindi-ed to teu his soul is not saved,
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 101
If any man ask, who lieth in this tomb,
Ho ! ho ! quoth the devil, 'tis my John-a-Combe. i
On the other side is a monument by Rysbrack, with a bust
of James Kendall, a gentleman of Stratford, who died
October 19th, 1751, and a medallion profile of his wife. On
the south wall, is a monument to the memory of Williatti
Combe (nephew of John Combe), who died January 30th, 1666,
and of his wife and five children. Next to it is a tablet to
the memory of the Rev. John Fullerton, who died May
25th, 1800. At the west end of the church, in a glass case,
is the Register of the church, which is open at the pages
recording the birth and burial of the poet. Here also is
preserved the remains of the Bowl of the old Perpendicular
Font in which the poet was probably baptised.
The College, which was anciently the residence of the
priests of the church, stood on the west side of College
Lane. After the dissolution, it passed through various
hands ; in 1596, it was sold to John Combe, who made it
his principal residence ; it afterwards passed, by marriage,
to the Cloptons, from them to Sir William Keyte, of
Ebrington, afterwards to the families of Kendall and
Fullerton, and was sold, in 1796, to Edmund Battersbee, by
whom it was pulled down in 1799.
A road leads from the church to the Mill, from whence a
path conducts to a footbridge, 120ft. long, across the Avon.
From the meadow on the opposite side of the river, there
is a most picturesque prospect. In the foreground, the
Avon brawls over the weir in a slanting sheet of rippled
water, dappled with golden light, the banks below being
fringed with spreading willows, framed by a background
of alder, yew, and ash. Higher up, the church tower
juts boldly out from a group of elms, through which there
is a peep of the graceful clerestory, while the rooks
wheeling unceasingly round the old grey spire, form an
appropriate finish to a beautiful rural picture.
In the Old Town, is the house in which John Hall, the son-
in-law of the poet first lived when he settled in Stratford,
The front has three gables with a porch in the centre,
flanked by bay windows. The interior contains a fine old
Jacobean oak staircase, with several panneled rooms. In
the garden is a large and venerable mulberry tree, said to
have been planted by Shakespeare's daughter, and now
supported by props.
i This mock epitaph appears, from its diction, to be of the Shakespearian
period. " Ho ! ho ! " was the cry with which the Devil of the ancient
Moralities :uid early stage entertainments always heralded his aijpearance
on the scene.
102 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Proceeding back through the town to Bridge Street, we
come to the Great Stone Bridge, crossing the Avon from
east to west, erected by Sir Hugh Clopton, Lord Mayor of
London, in the reign of Henry VII., and widened in 1814.
It is a handsome structure, 376 yards in length, and 16ft.
wide, consisting of fourteen principal arches, with five
small ones under the causeway at the west end. It
replaces a timber erection, Avhich Leland, who visited
Stratford in 1530, says— "was but a poor bridge of timber,
and no causeway to come to it. whereby many poor folks
refused to come to Stratford when the river was up, or
coming thither, stood in jeopardy of life.'" On the third
pier is an inscription to Sir Hugh Clopton. The second
arch from the east end was broken down by the Parlia-
mentarian army in December, 1645, and restored in 1652.
A brick bridge of nine arches, lower down the stream,
built in 1826, carries a tramway to Shipston-on-Stour.
Proceeding from Bridge Street, along U'ood Street, we
come to the Rother Market,^ in which stands the Memorial
Fountain, generously presented to the town by Mr. G. W.
Childs, of Philadelphia, in 1887. It is a handsome and
imposing structure, combining a fountain and a clock
tower, from the designs of Mr. J. A. Cossins, of Birming-
ham, and is 50ft. in height. The lower stage is square,
with projecting buttresses at the angles, between which are
recessed arches containing appropriate inscriptions, princi-
pally taken from Shakespeare's plays, together with the
following dedication : — " The gift of an American citizen,
George W. Childs, of Philadelphia, to the town of Shakespeare,
in the Jubilee year of Queen Victoria." On the north side is
a polished granite basin, fed by a bronze spout. On the
east and west sides are large troughs for the use of horses
and cattle, and below are smaller troughs for sheep and
dogs. On the south side is a doorway admitting to the
interior. The second stage is arcaded, and the third stage
contains the dials of the clock, beneath crocketted
triangular canopies, terminating in representations of
Puck, Mustard Seed, Peaseblossom, and Cobweb. A tower
with cylindrical turrets, and spire of banded free stone,
complete the structure. The foundation stone was laid by
Lady Hodgson on the 20th of June, 1887, and the Memorial
was formally dedicated, with imposing ceremony, on the
17th of October following, by Mr. Henry Irving, the
eminent actor. Further on, at the end of Greenhill
1 A.S. hryder, hrdder, cattle, an ox, a cow, a heifer.
Shakespeare's land. 103
Street, near the Railway Station, on the right, is the
Stratford on-Avon Hospital, a neat brick building, erected
in 1883, through the munificence of Mr. and Miss Gibbins,
of Ettington, and standing in its own grounds.
About a mile and a half in a north-west direction,
reached by Clopton Lane, is Clopton House, the seat of Sir
Arthur Hodgson, formerly the Jlanor House of the Clopton
family, who obtained a grant of the property in the 13th
century. The present house dates from the reign of Henry
VII., but the only portion of this period still recognisable,
is a porchway entrance at the back, through which
Shakespeare and his friends may often have passed. The
moat ran in front of it, and some excavations, undertaken
about the year 1830, resulted in the discovery of several
relics, among them three sack bottles of stunted form,
made of the coarsest glass, and bearing the crest of
John a Combe, which are now preserved in the house. The
south and east portions of the house were reconstructed by
Sir Edward Walker about the year 166.5, and about
1830, the house was again greatly altered and added
to. Sir Edward Walker was tlie envoy sent to Holland, in
1649, to convey to Charles II. the news of his father's
execution. He died in the house in 1677. The handsome
Staircase of oak is of the Jacobean period. In a bay
window of the Dining Room are the shields of several
members of the Clopton family, between 1516 and 1662,
and of a late occupant of the house in 1837. There are
also a num1)er of portraits of the Clopton family, and a
unique collection of " Toby "' jugs. On the walls of this
room, and of the staircase, are the following very inter-
esting portraits:— " The Earl of Totness," Zucchero ; "Sir
Edward Walker," Dobson ; " The Mother of Cromwell,"
Robert Walker; "General Ireton " (1610-1651), Dobson;
" The Queen of Bohemia " ; " Shakespeare," by Wright,
painted in 1688 ; "The Ghost Lady, or Charlotte Clopton," ^
regarding whom the terrible legend of her being buried in
a trance is related ; the portrait is, however, more probably
that of Lady Arabella Stuart, by Van Somer. The attic
story was formerly used as a chapel, and contains on the
walls a number of scriptural texts in black letter. In
September, 1605, the house was taken by Ambrose Rook-
wood, of Coldham, in Suffolk, from one Robert Wilson, who
1 The registers of the church have been searched from 1558 to 1625
without revealing any trace of Charlotte Clopton, or of any other member
of the family to whom such an incident could have occurred, and the
family pedigree also negatives her existence.
104 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
then held it under a lease from Sir George Carew, after-
wards Earl of Totness. Here Rookwood entertained his
fellow conspirators in the Gunpowder Plot — Wright, Winter,
Keyes, Eoljert Catesby, and John Grant, of Northbrook, and
his two brothers, who resorted to the house from time to
time, together with Bates, Catesby's servant. Here also,
on the discovery of the plot, a cloak bag was seized by the
Bailiff of Stratford, "full of copes, vestments, crosses,
crucifixes, chalices, and other massing reliques," a full
inventory of which, taken at the time, is now preserved in
the Museum at the Birthplace. At the rear of tlie garden
is a succession of small fish ponds, and beyond is a spring
in which Margaret Clopton (daughter of William Clopton,
who died in 1592), is supposed to have drowned herself
through disappointed love. The spring is now arched over,
and on a stone laid at the back, but which was probably
originally laid at its mouth, are inscribed the initials S.J.f!.,
1686, no doubt those of Sir John Clopton, who died in
1692, and who most probably first enclosed this well. There
is some probability that Shakespeare intended to depict
this house in the second scene of the induction of " The
Taming of the Shrew."
A pleasant walk across the fields, starting either from
the Old Town by way of the Chestnut Walk, or from the
end of Greenhill Street, near the Eailway Station, will con-
duct the visitor to Shottery, in the distance of about a mile.
In the village, standing by itself in a rustic garden, which
it faces, while its gable end extends to the road, is the
structure known as Anne Hathaway's Cottage, a picturesque
half-timbered building with a thatched roof. The title
given to it, however, is a misnomer for two reasons, because
it was not originally a cottage, nor can it clearly be
identified as the residence of Anne Hathaway. Both titles
seem to have been conferred on it in the last century.
The so-called cottage in reality forms part of a substan-
tial and interesting farm-house of the Elizabethan period,
which, in the latter part of the 18th century, was divided
into two, and subsequently into three tenements. In
Shakespeare's time there were three families of the name
of Hathaway at Shottery. His wife, in the marriage bond,
is described only as " Anne Hathwey, of Stratford, maiden."
This description would include Shottery, which was a
hamlet of the parish of Stratford ; but supposing the
family to which she belonged were originally inhabitants
of Shottery, such evidence as exists points to the conclusion
that, by the year 1636, they had come to live in Stratford,
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 105
whereas the descendants of the occupier of this house
continued to live in it.
The house is however of great interest, on account of its
being an excellent specimen of a farm-house of the time of
Shakespeare, and also because, looking to the kinship which
probably subsisted between the Hathaways, the possibilities
are very strong that the poet frequently visited it. The
house underwent some alteration and repair in 1697, when
a stone chimney was built, on which is carved I. H. 1697.
The cross bar of the door of the bacon cupboard also bears
the same date, with the initials I.H., E. H., I. B. The
entrance is said to have been at what is now the back of
the house. The original hall appears to have been on the
left of the present entrance, and the kitchen on the right.
The centre passage was floored with oval stones. The
massive stone bench for carrj-ing the milk pails in the
dairy, appears to be contemporary with the house, but the
bottom of a cheese press, which now forms part of the floor,
is probably of a later date. The vipper rooms were formerly
open to the thatch. In one of them is a chest containing
some homespun linen, and an old carved bedstead of the
Elizabethan period, though its style is hardly in keeping
with the character of the house. In 1838, the property
was purchased from William Taylor, a descendant of the
Hathaways, by Thomas Barnes, for £345. This latter
bequeathed it to William Thompson, who, on the 19th
May, 1892, conveyed it to the Trustees of Shakespeare's
Birthplace for the sum of £3,000. It is contemplated to
restore the house to its original state.
The history of Stratford is comparatively uneventful.
A Saxon monastery appears to have been established here
as early as the 7th century, and was probably dissolved
some two hundred years later. A church was in existence
at the time of the Conquest. In 1197, King Richard I.
granted a charter for a weekly market to be held here, and
early in the 12th century, charters were obtained for three
fairs to be kept in the town. The streets were paved in
the reign of Edward III., and, in the reign of Edward VI.,
the manor came into the possession of John Dudley, after-
wards Duke of Northumberland, who forfeited it when
attainted of treason. It was subsequently granted by
Queen Elizabeth to his son, Ambrose Dudley, and, in the
reign of Charles II., it was conveyed to the Sackville
family, represented in the present day by Earl Delawarr.
In 1694 and 1595, two dreadful fires ravaged the town, and
reduced the inhabitants, not only to the necessity of
106 Shakespeare's land.
seeking relief from sulisidies and taxes, but of applying for
charitable contributions from other towns. In 1614,
another great fire did much damage to the town. In 1769,
a great Jubilee was held here in honour of Shakespeare,
under the presidency of David Garrick, and. in 1864, a
Tercentenary festival took place with the same purpose.
The eminent men connected with Stratford include:
John de Stratford, Bishop of AVinchester 1323 - 1333,
Archbishop of Canterbury 1333-1348, and four times
Lord Chancellor of England ; his brother, Roheii. de
Stratford, Bishop of Chichester 1337-1362, and also Lord
Chancellor ; Malph de Strafford, nephew of the two former,
who was Bishop of London 1339-1353, all of whom were
natives of the town; John Bell, Dean of the College of
Stratford 1518-1526, who, in 1539, was promoted by King
Henry VIII. to the See of Worcester, as a reward for his
services in defending his divorce from Queen Katharine ;
and Nicholas Bradj/, one of the translators of the metrical
version of the Psalms, who was Vicar from 1702 to 1705.
The meadows and woodlands in the neighbourhood of
Stratford still teem with the natural beauties which
Shakespeare loved to depict with such exquisite grace and
fidelity, while the Avon, as of yore,
" Makes st\ eet music with the enamelled stones,
Giving a gentle kiss to every sedge
He overtaketh in his pilgrimage."
ROUTE 6.— LEAMINGTON TO KENILWORTH via
CHESEORD BRIDGE.
Kenilworth may be visited from Leamington either by road
or by rail. The road starts from the upper part of the
town in the rear of Christ Church. In about two and a
half miles, we come, on the left, to Blakedown, the Mill
of which, picturesquely situated on the Avon, was
bestowed Ity William de Bourton, in the reign of Henry II.,
on the monks of Combe. Near this, on the right, is a foot-
path leading to the village of Ashow. At three miles and a
quarter is Chesford ^ Bridge, originally built by the Abbots of
Combe, probably early in the 13th century, as, in 1285,
proceedings were instituted for its repair. The present
structure, however, appears not to be older than the
Georgian era, and was probably constructed early in this
century. It is now (1892), being enlarged, and its
approaches improved. A little further on, a road
on the right leads to Ashow and Stoneleigh, and
another on the left to Leek Wootton. The main road
from hence ascends a hill, and traverses Thickthorn
Wood, in which, on the right, is a lodge belonging to
Stoneleigh Abbey ; it next passes, also on the right, Thick-
thorii House, a modern Gothic mansion, built about 1830,
on the site of a small farm house, and soon after reaches
the suburb of Kenilworth termed Castle End. Here is St.
John's Church, built in 1852, in the Decorated style. The
town, which is long and straggling, though pleasantly
situated, extends from hence a mile and a half along the
roads to Coventry and to Birmingham. Half a mile
further, on the right, a road leads to the Railway Station.
At the corner of this road is the King's Arms Hotel, at
which Sir Walter Scott stayed when he paid his memorable
visit to the Castle in 1820. A little further along, on the
opposite side of the way is an Old Elizabethan House of two
stories, coated with rough cast. Over the door is a wooden
tablet, having the bear and ragged staff carved in the
centre, flanked by the initials R.L., for Robert Leicester.
1 The first syllable of the name is apparently a relic of Celtic times,
derived form the Gael, ceis (Kesh), a wickerwoik bridge.
108 SHAKESPEAEES LAXD.
The old oak beams of the interior are hevelled at the edges,
hut there is no other memento of the past in the building.
This house ■^^"as, without doubt, in former times one of
the lodges of the Castle, to which the roadway which leads
from hence, then formed the principal avenue of approach.
A short distance along this road we come to a house
bearing on its front a tablet to commemorate the founda-
tion of a Free School, in 1724, by William Edwards, the
then owner of Guy's Cliff. Hence, the way has, in modern
times, been cut through the hill ; half way down the
descent is a well with the inscription " Borrow Well, 1780,"
a figure of 5 has, however, been carved over the 7, to give
a spurious antiquity to the place. At the foot of the hill,
we cross a brook and ascend another eminence, on the top
of which are the remains of two circular stone bastions,
connected by a revetment, and separated from the road by
a deep trench. This, in ancient times, formed the main
entrance to the Castle, the moat being crossed by a draw-
bridge placed between the bastions. The roadway then
ended here, but it has since been extended to tlie other side
of the Castle, the earth which was removed in making it
having been apparently tlirowu into the moat, wliich has,
to a large extent, been filled up. The outworks of the
Castle, on the opposite side of the road, are termed The
Brays,' and are now clothed ^^•ith a picturesque growth of
beech and oak, interspersed with underwood. From hence
the roadway winds down a dell, through which the
Inchford Brook ripples in quiet lieauty, fringed by shapely
trees, and sometimes partly hidden by their drooping
branches. Here the stately ruins of the Castle become
visible, in all their decaying beauty, for the ravages of
time seem tempered by a loving influence, which leaves
only graceful traces of its mournful work.
"Ttie Castle, in ancient times, from the advantages of its
position, was one of the most important in England. Its
military strength was verj- great, it could accommodate a
large garrison, and it was protected by artificial water in
the shape of a lake and broad moats. From its position in
the centre of the kingdom, with numerous roads converging
on it, it offered great facilities for the concentration of
troops, or for their despatch to any part, and its position in
a fertile agricultural coimtrv^ enabled it to be readily
provisioned at any juncture. It is, therefore, not wonder-
1 K. Ft. fj-raie a low rampart, akin to the Scottish brae an acclivity
a steep bank, probably from the Gael, t/n, bre, a hill, a rising ground.
SHAKESPEARES LAND. 109
ful that, at an early period, it attracted the notice of our
Kings as a desirable possession, and that it has received
many of them within its walls. The Castle was the work
of several successive builders, and consisted of a keep, and
an inner and outer ward, partially protected by a lake, the
dam of which, in its turn, was defended by an outwork.
The present entrance, which faces Clinton Green, leads into
the Outer Ward, or Base Court. Half-way across the Outer
Ward, we arrive at the Keep, commonly called Caesar's
Tower, which stands at the north-east angle of the Inner
Ward. This Inner Ward is bounded on all sides by the
State and domestic buildings. The entrance to this ward
was by the side of the Keep, where a jamb and the
springing stones show that the portal was 3ft. deep to the
portcullis groove, which is still visible, beyond which was
a door, and then an arched passage.
The Keep, which was probably built between 1170 and
1180, chiefly rests upon the rock, and is a grand specimen
of military architecture of the Late Norman period. It is
rectangular in form, measuring, from north to south, 58ft.,
and from east to west, 87ft., with a height of about 80ft.
Attached to its western face, and projecting 38ft. from it,
is a rectangular tower, forming an annexe, which contained
the entrance to the main building. At the angles of the
Keep are four projecting turrets, the upper parts of which
have been demolished ; these turrets had doorways
opening on the ramparts, the battlements of which have
disappeared. On the South-east Turret, Dudley fixed a
clock, of which Laneham says : " Two dials nigh unto the
battlements are set aloft upon two sides of Caesar's Tower,
one East, tother South, for so stand they best to shew to
the town and country : both fair, large and rich, by bice ^
for ground and gold for letters, whereby they glitter
conspicuous a great way off." The places to which the
dials were attached are still plainly visible on each side.
The opening in the south face of this turret is a door of
later date, from which a stair descended to Henry VIII.'s
lodging. In the North-east Turret was a newel staircase,
10ft. in diameter, which led to the first floor, and upwards
to the battlements. The South-west Turret was converted
by Dudley into five tiers of rooms. The North-west Turret
contained latrines. The walls of the Keep at the base are
13ft. to 14ft. thick, and it contained two floors only— a
basement and an upper floor. The chamber in the basement
1 Pale blue.
110 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
is 60ft. by 30ft., with a lieight of 20ft. The upper floor is
4ft. larger, the tliickness of the wall being diminished 2ft.
all round, so as to provide a ledge on which the floor
rested. This chamber was about 40ft. in height, and was
covered by a low pitched open roof. These rooms were
probably divided into sections by wooden pillars. The
whole of the north side of the Keep was taken down during
the great Civil War, in order to render the Castle untenable..
In the east wall is a window recess, 12ft. high and 6ft.
wide, which is splayed both inside and outside in the
shape of the letter X) the centre part of the X between the
splays being 2ft. thick, and having straight sides, thus
showing that it was designed to give air and 'light, and not
for the purpose of discharging arrows. In the south wall
are three fine recesses of a similar character, 2ft. wider,
the splays of which were cut out by Dudley for the
purpose of inserting heavily mullioned ^^'indows of the
Tudor type at the outer ends ; these windows have, in their
turn, disappeared. The windows of the upper floor have
been similarly treated ; above one of them, on the south
side, the head of the original Norman window is visible,
which proves that it was of small size. On the south side
of the window recess in the east wall is a doorway leading
to The Well, which is in the centre of the wall, and 4ft. in
diameter. It is 70ft. deep from the lower floor, and the
opening ascends to the upper floor, enabling water to be
drawn there, and also serving as a medium for sending up
munitions and other supplies. The spring, which issues
from the rock is a strong one, but the well has been
emptied, to prevent accidents. In the west wall is a round
headed doorway, 6ft. wide, opening into a passage through,
the wall, which may have led into a prison in the Annexe ;
at each end of it are rebates for doors. Near this doorway,
on the north, is a smaller doorway, leading into a latrine
in the north-west turret. The cesspit underneath this
also subserved the latrines on the upper floor and the
battlements.
The Annexe, or subsidiary tower, consisted of two stories,
40ft. high, with walls 6ft. thick. The entrance was on the
south side, conducting to a straight staircase, whick
communicated with a landing from which it ascended the
reverse way to a chamber which was probably the original
chapel, and from whence a doorway, close to the south-
west turret, opens into the upper chamber of the Keep.
Dudley appears to have gutted both the Keep and its
Annexe, and to have remodelled them in the Tudor style.
shakbspeaee's land. Ill
The Annexe itself seems to have been tirst altered about
1390, so as to form an entrance to the garden on the north
of the Keep, and Dudley apparently made further changes
of a considerable character, rendered evident by the Italian
ornamentation of the south front, and the date of 1570
visible on it, though now in a mutilated state.
The Garden on the north side, in Scott's novel, forms the
scene of the retreat of Amy Robsart after her escape from
the Strong Tower, and the subsequent combat between
Leicester and Tressilian. Laneham describes it as having
a pleasant terrace along the Castle wall, 10ft. high and
12ft. broad, covered with fine grass, and ornamented with
obelisks, spheres, and stone bears, at each end being an
arbour, rendered redolent by sweet trees and fragrant
flowers. The garden was intersected by fair alleys, each
of which had in the middle a square pilaster, 15ft. high, said
to be of porphyry, but really of painted stone, hollow in
the centre, and surmounted by an orb. In the centre of
the garden was a fountain of white marble, consisting of
an octangular pedestal beautifully carved with allegorical
subjects, surmounted by two Atlantes, back to back,
holding a ball, from whence pipes conveyed continuous
streams into the basin, which was filled with carp, tench,
bream, perch, and eels. At the side of the terrace, against
the north rampart of the Castle, was a sumptuous aviary,
filled with birds.
We now come to the part of the Castle termed Lancaster's
"Buildings, which extend round the Inner Court, from the
Annexe to the Keep, to Leicester's Buildings. They were
erected towards the close of the 14th century, and are the
successors of Norman buildings occupying the same site.
First of these, westward, was The Kitchen, the remains of
"which consist of a great fireplace in the west wall of the
Annexe, with two ovens lined with thin bricks. In the
adjoining rampart is another fireplace, the back of which
is lined with herring bone brickwork. Next to this was
The Buttery.
Further along, at the north-west angle of the ward, is a
quadrangular tower, termed the Strong Tower, having
octagonal turrets at the western angles. It probably owes
its name to its employment as a prison, though Walter
Scott gives it the unauthorised title of " Mervyn's Bower."
The tower has three stages, each of which is vaulted and
joined. A room on the second stage contains a latrine.
In the south splay of the window, looking westwards,
eeven coats of arms have been scratched in the stonework.
112 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Among those that have been identified, the name of Bland
appears in black letter above one -which seems to refer to
the Yorkshire family of that name ; another embodies the
arms of the Frevile family (lords of the Castle of Tamworth
1292-1420). On the third stage is a fireplace with a flat
top. At the south-west angle is a gallery commnnicating
with a newel staircase ascending to the roof, and descending
on the one hand to a room witli a latrine, and on the other
to the north-west corner of the Great Hall. From the
summit of the tower, there is a fine panoramic view of the
surrounding country, and it also overlooks the Garden,
the Pleasance, and the Swan Tower, though the remains of
this latter are almost enshrouded in trees and ivy. The
position of the Great Lake may be clearly traced by means
of the hedges which accurately mark its outline.
Adjoining the tower is the Great Hall, a magnificent
structure in every respect, measuring 90ft. by 45ft. The
approach to it was by a broad straight staircase on the
north-east side, which led to the porch, resting upon a
vault. This porch, which has at the side a small recess for
the use of the warder or usher, is itself vaulted and groined
and elaborately pauneled, the hollows of the mouldings of
the doorway being filled with richly sculptured foliage.
The floor of the hall was formed by the vaulted roof
of a fine cellar. This vaulting sprang from ten piers,
arranged in two rows at equal distances from the walls,
with corresponding responds or half pillars against the
walls and at the angles. The hall was lighted by large
windows set in deep splayed recesses, four on the west side
and three on the east, each of two lights, divided by two
transoms, and richly foliated. About one third of the
distance from the south end of the hall are two large
fireplaces, one on each side, and on the side next to the Inner
Court is a large Oriel, comprising five sides of an octagon,
and communicating with the dais by an arch. It contains
three large windows of two lights, a smaller window, and
a fireplace. On the opposite side of the hall is a recess
with a single window, intended for a buffet or sideboard.
It is flanked by two small octagonal turrets, one of which
contains the staircase, which descends to the cellar, and
ascends to the roof. From hence a passage conducted to
the Withdrawing Room. The north and south walls are
gone ; on the north are traces of a doorway, which
probably led to the butterj-. The roof was of open timber
work, supported by five hammer beams on each side, the
holes for which are visible between the windows. The
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 113
Cellar was lighted and aired by four loopholes on the east
side only. From the doorway underneath the entrance to
the Great Hall to the postern on the opposite side, a passage
was partitioned off by a wall, in the centre of which was
the entrance to the cellar. The postern was closed by a
portcullis, which was lifted by a chain, the round hole for
which may be seen in the sill of the hall window above.
Over the postern is a small square window. At the south-
west end of the cellar is a small apartment, from whence a
newel staircase led to the buffet above. The whole
building is a remarkably fine and pure specimen of Early
Perpendicular work. The furniture of this magnificent
apartment was worthy of its character. When Queen
Elizabeth was entertained here, a great brazen chandelier,
fashioned in the shape of a spread eagle, supporting
with its wings six beautiful figures, half of them male
and half female, hung from the centre of the roof.
Each figure carried in each hand a pair of branches,
containing enormous candles, making twenty - four
branches in all. A throne of state, with a richly
embroidered crimson velvet canopy, occupied the dais at
the south end. Six tables occupied the centre of the
chamber, about which stools, chairs, and cushions of
crimson velvet, ornamented with gold lace, were dis-
tributed. Turkey carpets were on the floor, and velvet
carpets in the windows. The richest silken tapestry
decked the walls, and the buffet was decorated with,
magnificent plate. At the north end, the minstrel gallery
was occupied by musicians, performing the softest and
most delicate music, while the air was laden with delicious-
perfumes.
Next to the Great Hall was the WMte Hall, 58ft. long by
25ft. wide, now destroyed. Beyond this was the Presenca
Chamber, an irregularly shaped room, about 38ft. long, with,
a fine oriel window looking into the court. The heads of
the windows in the lobby leading to this chamber from the
outer side, are fine and well preserved. In the rear of this
apartment is a low turret, projecting boldly from the
rampart, and divided by a partition into two public
latrines, with cess pits below, a curiously coarse accessory
in the midst of so much grandeur. Adjoining the Presence
Chamber was the Privy Chamber, measuring about 23ft.
square, having a bay window and a fireplace, from which
the alabaster chimney-piece in Dudley's Gatehouse is
supposed to have been removed. Next come Leicester's.
Buildings, measuring 50ft. by 90ft., and t)3ft. high, which
114 Shakespeare's land.
no doubt replace a Xorman structure. The walls of the
present fabric were built too thin for their height, and
their condition, therefore, became precarious when the
floors and roof were removed. At the south-west angle is
a projection which contained closets or dressing rooms;
the great staircase ascended at the side of the centre
apartment. On a tablet below the centre window of the
east front is the date 1571. Queen Elizabeth resided in
this building during her famous visit, and, as a curious
fulfilment of the adage regarding the mutability of human
grandeur, a number of Coventry weavers established them-
selves here at the end of the last century, the holes caused
Tjy the fixing of their looms being visible in the wall in the
rear of the central window. To the north of Leicester's
Buildings, extending towards the Keep, and completing
the sideof the Inner Ward, were Henry Vin.'s Lodgings and
Dudley's Lobby, which have now entirely disappeared. In
front, a deep and broad moat was excavated as an
additional defence, by the Norman constructors ; this was
partially filled up liy Dudley, but traces of it may yet be
observed at either end. The Inner Ward commanded the
"whole of the outer defences, and constituted a strong
fortress in itself.
The Outer Ward, covering about nine acres, was sur-
rounded by a rampart, about 750 yards in length, connected
with which were several towers.
In the south-east angle is one of the original entrances
to the Castle, termed Mortimer's Tower, probably built by
Henry III., and deriving its name either from Koger
Mortimer, Earl of ^March, who took the chief part in
the great tournament held here by Edward I., and who
lodged in it ; or from Sir John Mortimer, who was
imprisoned in it in the time of Henry V. It stands upon
the inner end of the dam, and the outer entrance is placed
in the centre, between two half round towers, which are
pierced with loopholes commanding the approach. Inside
the arch was the portcullis, behind which were double
■doors, and at the other end was another portcullis, backed
by doors. On each side of the passage are doorways
leading into lodges. That on the west side has a latrine,
and contains the shaft of one on the upper floor ; below
them is a sewer, which drained into the lake. The upper
■floor is gone.
Close behind the tower is a culvert, which conveyed the
waters of the -lake to the Water Tower. From hence,
•westwards, the ramparts were originally Norman, subse-
shakespeake's land. 115-
quently modified or rebuilt in various parts. A little
further along, at the angle of the ramparts, is a postern
door, from which a flight of steps descended to the lake-
Opposite Leicester's Buildings are three splayed recesses
containing loopholes, evidently belonging to some old
Norman building, now destroyed. A little further onwards,
jutting out from the ramparts, is a wall containing a part
of a doorway; this formed a portion of a wall protecting
the ancient moat in front of the Inner Ward, which was-
evidently pulled down when Leicester's Buildings were
erected. Proceeding onwards, remains of fireplaces Avill be
noticed in several parts of the walls, close to them being
corbels, which carried the roofs of wooden houses or
" Domi," erected to shelter the soldiers, when the walls-
required to be manned. Outside the Great Hall, the
triangular sloping bank of earth, and the smaller mound ta
the north, separated from it by the path cut from the hall
postern, seem to have formed part of the defensive earth-
works which existed here prior to the erection of the
Norman Castle. Opposite to the pathway from the hall
postern is a window and a postern of the 13th century,
communicating with the lake. Further on, the ward is-
crossed by a wall extending from the Strong Tower to the
ramparts, and probably erected during the Lancastrian
period for the purpose of enclosing the garden. In the
centre of this wall is a doorway of Perpendicular character,,
on each of the inner sides of which Henry VIII.'s Plaisance ^
was built. About half way between this wall and the
Swan Tower is a large archway of Perpendicular type,,
termed the King's Gate, which was possibly intended to
permit the launching of a boat upon the lake.
At the north-east angle of the ramparts is the Swan
Tower, an octagonal structure standing on a square base,
probably erected in the Lancastrian period, and said ta
have been altered by Dudley. The tower presumably deriA'ed
its name from being used either for sheltering or feeding
the swans ; the lower story of it only remains. From this
point the ramparts ran nearly in a direct line to Dudley's-
Gatehouse, having on them two towers, one rectangular,
and the other polygonal, which have been destroyed
together with the walls tliemselves. The moat on the-
outside is said to have been fed from the lake, if this wa&-
the case, there was probably a daHi at the angle near-
Lunn's Tower.
1 An ornamental structure used as a pleasure resort. At Kenilworth:
the term seems to have been extended to the ground adjoining it.
116 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Tlie stately Gatehouse, built by Dudley about 1570 as the
cliief entrance to the Castle, is a rectangular building of
three stages, with prominent octagonal turrets rising
slightly above the roof. On the south front is a shield
with "the Beauchamp arms, and the south-west turret
contains a newel staircase, with oak steps, leading to the
upper floors and the roof. The original archway, which
was 12ft. wide, was closed and converted into two rooms
with bay windows, north and south, by Colonel Hawkes-
worth, one of Cromwell's officers, who was placed in
charge of the Castle in 1649. On the west side, he also
added the porch of Italian design, having the initials R.L.
in the spandrils of the arch, which is said to have come
from Sir Robert Dudley's lol)by, and somewhat later
■erected the two picturesque gables on the east side. The
inner room on the ground floor is panneled with oak, and
contains portions of two Renaissance chimney-pieces,
brought from the Castle, and now formed into one. The
lower part, probably brought from the Privy Chamber, is
of alabaster, and was richly decorated with gilding. The
ragged staff appears between the pilasters on each side,
and in the centre is the motto " Droit et loyal," flanked by
the initials R. L. with a shield between them, the date
1671 appearing to the right of the stem of the L. On the
pilasters of the jambs is " Vivit post funera virtus"^ in
intaglio. The upper part of oak, and bearing the initials
E. R. in ornamental scroll work, is supposed to have come
from the Presence Chamber.
We next come to Liinn's Tower, probably built by King
John about the year 1200. It is cylindrical in shape, about
42ft. high, T\-ith a diameter of 36ft. ; in the rear of it is a
turret of later date, probably added by Henry III., which
contains a newel staircase. The upper floors, which were
of timber, contain fireplaces. The loopholes are all splayed
in the interior, for facilitating the discharge of arrows. In
the upper part of the exterior of the tower, between the
loopholes, holes will be observed, which in time of war
contained the supports of projecting wooden galleries,
termed " hoards," constructed to provide the defenders
with a perpendicular command of the walls, and thus
to prevent the assailants from finding shelter by keeping
close to the wall. The entrance of the tower was blown
up during the great Civil War. In the rear is a well 4ft.
in diameter.
1 Virtue survives the grave.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 117
Proceeding onwards, we come to The Stables, erected on
the lower part of the wall; the under portion, probably
constructed in the reign of Henry V., is of stone, and the
upper part, wliich appears to have been added by Dudley,
is halt timbered. A short distance west of this was the
Chapel, built by John of Gaunt, now destroyed.
Next to the Stables is the Water Tower, a very curious
building of semi-octagonal form, probably erected by
Henry III. The ground floor contains a large fireplace
with a fine chimney shaft, and appears to have been
designed for a kitchen. A newel staircase leads to the
upper floor, and to the battlements. The upper floor has a
small room attached to its west side. The windows are of
two lights, with trefoils in the heads. The building was
provided with latrines, the sewer of which was cleared by
a culvert, which conveyed the waters of the lake from
the rear of Mortimer's Tower. From the character of the
internal arrangements, and the Avindows, the tower appears
to have been designed for domestic purposes, and was
probably the residence of some high otiicial of the Castle.
Beyond this, slightly projecting from the wall, is a
Warder's Chamber, containing a fireplace and a latrine,
probably of the same date as the AVater Tower.
From Mortimer's Tower a great bank of earth, about 160
yards long, nearly 18 yards broad, and 20ft. high on the
west side, extends to the Gallery Tower. This bank was
constructed to form a dam for the Great Lake, and had a
protecting wall, 5ft. thick, on the east side. It is now
intersected by a deep cutting, 58ft. wide, originally made
by Colonel Hawkesworth, for the purpose of draining off
the water of the Great Lake ; the cutting being subse-
quently bridged over to carry the farm road at the side of
the earthwork. The surface of the dam, which anciently
formed the main approach to the Castle, was used as a
Tilt Yard, and was traversed by Queen Elizabeth on her
memorable entry to the Castle in 1575. The southern end
was protected by an outer gatehouse, termed the Gallery or
Floodgate Tower, which contained " a spacious and noble
room for ladies to see the exercises of Tilting and Barriers."
The remains of this building consist of a wall, about 8ft.
high, extending 85ft. on the east side of the dam, and then
turning westward for a distance of 8ft. 6in. A flight of
steps descended from it to the lake. The dam and the
tower were both probably the work of Henrj' III., but the
tower was reconstructed Ijy Dudley.
The Great Lake, which covered HI acres, extended from
118 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
hence for about half a mile, -u-ith a mean breadth of about
100 yards, and a depth of from 10ft. to 12ft. ; it was well
stocked with fish, and was famous for its bream. A paijt
of the stonework of the sluice still remains. Below the
dam was a smaller pool or lake, with a depth of 4ft. or oft.,
extending from the AVater Tower to the Inchford Brook,
and serving to protect the dam of the Great Lake. This
lake was converted, by Dudley, into an orchard with
ornamental terraces. On the outer side of the Gallerj'
Tower was a trench, about 56ft. wide, and 20ft. deep,
evidently intended to receive the overflow of the Great
Lake, and which was crossed by a drawbridge, the founda-
tions of which still remain. Beyond this were The Brays,
a formidable earthwork, which terminated the defences of
the Castle. This bulwark, consisting of a broad and high
bank of earth with a trench, in some places -iOft. in depth,
extends in a slight curve from the Inchford Brook along
the side of the present way to the Castle, up to the point
at which the road suddenly turns and takes a direct course
to the town. At this spot are the remains of two circular
stone l.iastions, 2oft. in diameter, and 14ft. high, between
which, in former times, was a roadway, approached by a
drawbridge, which formed the entrance to the Castle from
the south, through which Elizabeth passed on her visit in
1575. From this point, the bank of the earthwork bends
in a north-west direction, so as to cover the head of the
dam, the area enclosed being about eight acres, which, in
ancient times, was probably devoted to martial exercises.-
On the top, at intervals, are four circular mounds, on which
mangonels were doubtless placed for defensive purposes^
The t^rench was filled by a brook, flowing from a reservoir
in Wedgnock Park, and eventually discharging itself into
the lower lake. The best and most comprehensive view
of the Castle is to be obtained from the Brays.
Beyond the Great Lake was The Chase, slocked with red
deer and other species of game, and embellished with
handsome trees. The circuit of the Castle, manors, park,
and chase contained " at least XIX. or XX. miles in a
pleasant country ; the like, both for strength, state, and
pleasure, not being within the realm of England."
Historic >'otes ox the Castle.
The signification of the name of Kenilworth appears to
be the "worth " or habitation of Kenelm or Cenulph,^ who
1 There was a King of Alereia of this latter name from 796 to S19.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 119
"was probably some Saxon thane or petty king who fixed
his residence here, and protected it by entrenchments. It
is possible that the site Avas originally that of a Roman
castellum, which the Saxon chief adapted and enlarged, so
as to afford accommodation and security for his flocks and
herds, and those of his dependents. The manor is
mentioned in Domesday, but remained without importance
until the reign of Henry I., when it was granted Ijy the
King to his Lord Chamberlain and Treasurer, Geoffrey de
Clinton or Glinton, probably shortly before the year 1120.
Geoffrey fixed his residence here and also founded the
priory. He is said to have built the keep, but the existing
masonry appears to be of a later date, and is more probably
the work of his son Geoffrey, who succeeded him. This
Geoffrey conveyed the Castle to Kmy Henry II. about
1165, and it remained in his hands for a few years, when it
was recovered by Geoffrey, who held it till about 1180,
when it again passed into the hands of the King. In 1181,
money, in the nature of rent, was paid by several persons,
which seems to indicate that they were permitted to reside
here for security of their goods and persons, on payment
for the privilege. The walls were repaired in 1184, and
the gaol in the following year. In the beginning of the
reign of King John, Henry de Clinton (grandson of the
founder) ceded all his rights to the King. John visited
the Castle five times, and expended considerable sums
upon it, Lunn's Tower being probably part of the work
executed by his order. Henry III. was frequently here
during the early years of his reign, and laid out large sums
in works and repairs. He built a chapel, and probably
constructed the Water Tower, Mortimer's Tower, the dam
of the Great Lake, and the outworks beyond it. Male-
factors seem to have been imprisoned in the gaol of the
Castle, as in 1231, judges were constituted for a gaol
delivery. In 1235, the Sheriff accounted £6 16s. 4d. " for a
fair and beautifull boat to lye neer the dore of the King's
great chamber." In 1237, VValter de Grav, Archbishop of
York, was temporarily made governor for the purpose
of receiving Ottoboni, the Pope's legate, who suljsequently
became Pope, under the title of Adrian V. In 1244, Simon
de Montford, Earl of Leicester was made governor, and, in
1248, his wife Alianore, who was sister to the King, was
granted the custody of it during her life. The character of
the country at this time is shown by the fact that, in 12.50,
the woods were so thick that the Constable was commanded
to cut down six acres in breadth between Coventrj' and
120 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Warwick for the security of foot passengers.' In 1254, the
King made a grant of the Castle to Earl Simon and his
wife for their lives, the consequences of which were
momentous. This Earl was the leading spirit among the
Barons, who desired, amongst other things, to establish
representative government in the countrj-, and foreseeing
the probabilities of a conflict, he stored and prepared the
Castle against eventualities. Hostilities broke out between
the King and the Barons, and in 1264, Sir John Giffard,
whom the Earl appointed as governor, surprised Warwick
Castle, which was then held for the King, and after
destroying the fortifications, brought the Earl and Countess
here as prisoners. In 1265, the Earl sent his younger son,
Simon, to collect reinforcements in the north. This he
accomplished, but when he reached Kenilworth, he was
surprised and routed by Prince Edward, who had marched
across country and lay in ambush for him in a deep valley
near the Castle. Young Simon escaped into the Castle, and
Prince Edward marched to encounter the Earl, whom, on
the 5th of August, he found with his army near Evesham.
By displaying the banners of the Barons he had captured at
Kenilworth, Prince Edward at first deceived the Earl into
the belief that his reinforcements were approaching, but,
on finding out his error, the Earl drew out his army to the
best advantage, and encouraged them to remember "that
they were fighting for the laws of the land and the cause
of God and justice"; when, however, he found himself
overpowered by the superior forces of Prince Edward, he
fervently exclaimed " Let us commit our souls to God, for our
bodies are theirs." After the battle, those who escaped fled
to Kenilworth, and here they were joined by others, whose
relatives had been slain, or whose estates had been confis-
cated. In the following summer, the King collected an
army at Warwick, and laid siege to the Castle, establishing
his camp a little to the north of it. In the absence of
young Simon de Montford, who had gone to Guienne to
collect reinforcements, the command of the Castle devolved
on Henry de Hastings, under whom the garrison main-
tained an undaunted front ; they made repeated sallies,
and constructed powerful engines, which destroyed all
those brought against them. The King obtained barges
1 The statute of Winchester (13 Edw. I., A.D. 1285) made this practice
general, as it directs that "highways leading from one market town to
another shall be enlarged, 80 that there he no dyke, tree, nor bush,
whereby a man may lurk to do hurt, within two hundred foot of the one
side, and two hundred foot on the other side of the way."
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 121
from Chester to conduct an attack from the lake, but they
were sunk or destroyed by the besieged. The King then
called a convention of the clergy and laity, by whose
recommendation terms incorporated in the celebrated
Dictum or Ban of Kenilworth were offered to the besieged.
These were rejected, and Ottoboni, the papal legate,
standing on a high platform in sight of the Castle, there-
upon excommunicated the garrison, who, nothing daunted,
responded by setting up a mock legate in a white cape,
who in turn showered maledictions on the besiegers.
Famine at last, however, compelled the besieged to
surrender, on favourable terms, on the 21st of December,
1266, after a siege of six months. The cost of the siege
was vast, and the Priory suffered much from the oppression
of the soldiers. The King then conferred the Castle on his
younger son, Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, who, in 1279,
held a famous concourse called. " The Round Table," con-
sisting of a hundred knights and as many ladies, who
engaged in tilting, martial tournaments, and dancing,
under the lead of Roger Mortimer, Earl of March. Thomas
Lancaster, son of Edmund, who next inherited the Castle,
enlarged the park, and was beheaded at Poutefract in 1322,
ostensibly for treason, but in reality mainly for the share he
took in the execution of Piers Gavestou, the favourite of
Edward II. The King seized the Castle, and visited it in
1323, 1324, and 1326, and then by a fortuitous operation of
retributive destiny, he was himself brought here as a
prisoner, in December of the latter year, by Henry, Earl of
Lancaster, brother of the beheaded nobleman. On the 21st
of January, 1327, the wretched King, wrapped in a common
black gown, was ushered into the Great Hall of the Castle,
in a fainting condition, to sign the renunciation of his
crown. The impressive scene which followed completed
his prostration, for Sir William Trussell, as Speaker,
announced that all fealty and allegiance were withdrawn
from him by Parliament, and Sir Thomas Blount, as
Steward of the Household, stepped forward, and adopting
the ceremony usual at the death of a king, broke his white
wand of office, as a sign that all persons in hig service were
discharged and free. On the 6th of April, the fallen King
was removed to Berkeley Castle, there to yield up his
miserable existence to his unpitying murderers amid wild
shrieks of agony. Henry, Earl of Lancaster, to whom the
Castle was restored, was succeeded by his son Henry,
who had two daughters, Maud and Blanch ; the latter
married the famous John of GaunL, fourth son of Edward
122 Shakespeare's land.
III., who received the Castle as part of his wife's dowry,
and was created Duke of Lancaster. John of Gaunt took
up his abode here on the death of his father in 1377, and
during the rest of his lifetime, carried out immense
alterations in the pile, including the construction of the
Great Hull, the State Apartments, and the Kitchen. From
John of Gaunt the Castle passed to his son. King Henry
IV., and continued royal property until the reign of
Elizabeth. Henry V. erected an ornamental building in
the low ground at the head of the lake, which he termed
Le plescms en mai~ys, or the pleasure house in the marsh,
w^hich Henry Vlll. removed to the Outer Court of the
Castle, setting it up near the Swan Tower. The latter
monarch also reconstructed part of the buildings extending
between Leicester's Buildings and the Keep, now destroyed.
Henry V., when Prince of Wales, made a stay here, and in
1414, kept his Lent at the Castle. In 1437, Henry VI,
kept Christmas here, and made subsequent visits in 1449,
1450, and 1457. Between 1441 and 1447, the ill-starred and
frisky Eleanor Cobham, Duchess of Gloucester, who had
been condemned for treason and witchcraft, was kept a
prisoner in the precincts. Richard III. was at the Castle
in July, 1483, he kept Whitsuntide in it in 1484, and twice
visited it again the same year. Henry VII. came here in
1487 to celebrate Whitsuntide with his Queen, his mother,
and his infant son Arthur, and receiving intelligence of
the landing of Lambert Simnel and his supporters at
Furness Fells, proceeded from hence to meet the invaders,
whom he routed with great slaughter at Stoke, in Stafford-
shire, thus effectually crushing the faction of the
White Rose, and firmly establishing the House of Tudor on
the throne. The King paid two subsequent visits to the
Castle in 1493. Elizabeth, in 1563, granted the Castle to
Robert, Lord Dudley, whom, in the following year, she
created Baron Denbigli and Earl of Leicester. Dudley
immediately set about enlarging and adorning his new
property. He built the handsome Gatehouse on the north
side, by which he converted what was formerly the rear of
the Castle into the front, he constructed the pile of
buildings known by his name, and gutted the Keep and
the Annexe, re-modelling them in the Tudor style. He also
rebuilt the Gallery Tower, and probably reared the loft of
the Stables. It is said that he spent altogether £60,000 on
his alterations, a prodigious sum in those days. Here he
received visits from Queen Elizabeth in 1566, 1568, 1572,
and 1575. This last visit, which began on Saturday, the
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 123
9th of July, and lasted seventeen days, was rendered
famous by the sumptuous character of the entertainments
offered to the Queen. At the gate of the Gallery Tower,
she was greeted with a flourish of trumpets, and the huge
porter, apparently overcome by her presence, presented the
keys to her. Immediately on entering the Tilt Yard, the
Lady of the Lake, attended by two nymphs, appeared
suddenly on a floating island, blazing with torches, and
welcomed her in a speech which was closed with music.
In the Outer Court, a bridge, 22ft. wide, and 70ft. long,
was constructed for her to pass over, on each side of which
posts were erected, bearing gifts from the Gods, which
were presented by a poet. A cage of wild foAvl from
Silvanus, rare fruits from Pomona, corn from Ceres, wine
from Bacchus, sea fish from Neptune, weapons from Mars,
and musical instruments from Phrebus. Her majesty tlien
proceeded to the Inner Court, where she was again greeted
with music, and alighted from her horse. On the following
day, Sunday, there were fireworks on the lake, and on
subsequent days, various rare sports and shows were
produced for her gratification, including bear baitings,
Italian tumblers, a country Bride-ale or marriage feast,
tilting at the quintain, and morrice dancing.^ On the lake,
a Triton was exhibited, riding on a mermaid 18ft. long, and
Arion on a dolphin, each carrying concealed music of an
exquisite character. The Coventry players came over
and acted their ancient play called " Hocks Tuesday,"
depicting the destruction of the Danes in the time of
King Ethelred, which greatly pleased the Queen. Dugdale
says that the cost of the entertainment may be guessed at
from the fact that 320 hogsheads of beer were consumed.^
1 The performers of this dance possibly came from Long Marstou, near
Stratford-on-Avon, which was noted for tliem It is the " Dancing
Marston " of the epigram, unfoundedly attributed to Shakespeare.
2 Sir Walter Scott, in the novel, represents Amy Robsart as beiiig present
at Kenil worth in 1575. This is altogether a fiction, as are many othei of the
incidents connected with the tale. The foUowing are the real facts : — She
was the oidy legitimate child of Sir John Bobsart, of Sidersteni, in
Norfolk, and was born in 1532. On June 4th, 1550, she was publicly
married, at the Royal Palace of Sheen, to Lord Robert Dudley, fifth sou
of John, Duke of Northuml:)erland, in the presence of Edward VI., and
many members of the Court. She lived chiefly in the country while her
husband attended the Court. In 1560, she was residing at Cumnor Place,
which was rented from Mr. William Owen, a son of George Owen,
physician to Henry VIII. Staying with her were Mrs. Owen, wife of the
owner, and a Mrs. Odingsells, sister of a Mr. Hyde, in whose house she
had previously resided. On Sundai*, September 8th, she sent all her
servants to visit Abingdon fair, and, on their return, she was found lying
at the foot of the staircase with her neck broken. A full and public
124 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
It has been suggested that Shakespeare, who was then
eleven years of age, was a spectator of these entertainments,
and that Oberon's description of his recollections in the
" Midsummer Night's Dream " ' embodies the poet's remi-
niscence of them.
Dudley bequeathed the Castle for life to his brother,
Ambrose, Earl of 'Wamick, who only survived him a year,
and it then passed, by his will, to his son by Lady Douglas
Sheffield, whom he termed Sir Robert Dudley. This latter
married, in 1596, Alice, daughter of Sir Thomas Leigh, of
Stoneleigh, and, in the beginning of the reign of King
James L, proceeded to prove his legitimacy in order to lay
claim to all his father's rights and titles. Leicester's
widow. Lady Lettice, however, procured an order from the
Star Chamber to stop his proceedings, and to cause all the
papers connected with the case to be sealed up and
deposited in the Council chest. Sir Robert then obtained
leave to travel abroad, and while there, was summoned to
return by the Privy Council. Failing to obey, all his lands
were seized for the King's use. In 1611, Prince Henrs",
eldest son of James, agreed to pay Sir Robert £14,500 for
the title to the estates, but only £3,000 of the amount was
discharged, and this was embezzled by the agent to whom
it was entrusted. King James visited the Castle in 1617,
and in 1622, under a special Act of Parliament, Lady Alice,
inquest was held, but nothing was discovered in the least implicating any
one ill the matter. It is perhaps too nincli to affirm, as is sometimes
done, that Amy Robsart never saw Kenilworth, as at Moreton Morrell
there is an old tradition that she rested there on a journey. In 1558 and
1559, she was living at Benchworth, about ten miles south of Cumnor, and
very probably went on a visit to her brother-in-law, Ambrose, the good
Earl of Warwick, from whence she might very well have visited KenU-
■worth, as the Priory was at that time in the possession of Sir William
Flammock, whose daughter and heiress afterwards marriad John Colebume,
the owner of the Manor House at Moretou Morrell. Dudley is correctly
described as being secretly married at the time of the festivities at Kenil-
worth, though not to Amy Rohsart, who had then been dead neai-ly fifteen
years. In 1571, he engaged himself to Lady Douglas Sheffield, widow of
John, second Baron Sheffield, whom he privately espoused in May, 1573,
a son, Robert, being bom to them two days later. This marriage lie after-
wards endeavoured to repudiate, and at the period of the festivities, he
was actually carrying on a clandestine intrigue with Lettice, Countess of
Essex, wliose husband died in 1576. In 157S, during the lifetime of his
first wife, DutUey married Lady Lettice, who was a daughter of Sir
Francis Knollys, and a son was bom to them, who died in 158-1. In 15S9,
ten months after the death of Dudley, Lady Lettice married Sir
Christojiher Blount, who had been equerry to her husband, and who was
twenty-five yeai-s her junior. In liiOl, she lost both her husband and her
son, the Earl of Essex, by the axe of the headsman.
1 Act II., Sc. 1, lines 143-164.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 125
wife of Sir Robert, conveyed the Castle to Prince Charles
in consideration of £4,000, though her husband was still
alive.^ Charles I. was here on the 19th and 20th October,
1643, on his way to the battlefield of Edge Hill, and again
in 1644. During the Commonwealth, the Castle was
dismantled, the lake drained, and the lands divided away
among several of Cromwell's officers. After the Restora-
tion, the reversion of the whole manor was granted to
Lawrence, Lord Hyde, from whom, in the female line,
it has descended to its present possessor, the Earl of
Clarendon.
In connection with the Castle, Scott has, by his genius,,
invested Dudley the shallow intriguing Earl of Leicester,,
and favourite of Queen Elizabeth, with a measure of interest
which does not rightly belong to him. Kenilworth has,
however, far higher and truer claims to contemplation as
the abode of Simon de Montford, another possessor of the
same title, but a man of far nobler mould, who fought and
died in the attempt to iiiaugurate the most glorious of
our privileges — that of free representative government.
With his latest breath, he recognised that his body was at
the mercy of his victor, but his spirit still lives, not only in
the country of his choice, but in every region where the
British race has found a settlement.
Tlie Church lies to the east of the Castle, on a declivity
slightly below the Coventry Road. It consists of a western
tower and spire, nave with aisles, transepts, and chancel
with a south aisle or lady chapel. The tower and nave are
of the 14th century, but, inserted in the west side of the
tower, is a very fine Norman doorway, which has evidently
been removed from the adjacent Priory, as the external
masonry is not tied into the walls. It is composed of three
receding arches, the first fluted, the second beak-headed,
and the third embattled, encircled by a nail-headed band,
the whole being enclosed in an ornamental square,
bordered with diaper work and cable moulding, and
having a patera in each spandril. On the north side of the
chancel arch, the doorway to the rood loft, now blocked
up, may still be discerned. On the south side is a lychno-
scope. The chancel contains a piscina, and the font, which
1 Sir Robert Dudley ended his days in Italy, where he died in 1649,
having, in 1606, by papal dispensation, contracted a bigamous marriage
with Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Thomas Southwell, of Wood Rising, in
Norfolk, which effectively completed the ruin of his prospects in England.
He was a man of considerable attainments, and high in favour with the
Emperor Ferdinand II., who created him a Duke in 1620.
126 shakespeaee's land.
is circular, bears the date 1664. On the north wall of
the nave is a handsome marble monument, with figures in
high relief, by Westmacott, to the memory of Mrs. Caroline
Gresley, who died 1817. In the lower belfry is a boat
shaped leaden casting, weighing from eleven to twelve
cwt., which bears the seal of Henry VIII. 's Commissioner,
and was discovered in tiie ruins of the Priory in 18SS.
Close to the church was The Priory, founded for Augus-
tinian canons, about the year 11:22, by Geoffrey de Clinton,
and which was richly endowed. On the south-western
side of the churchyard are the remains of the Gatehouse,^
having four doorways, three of which are in the Decorated
style, and the fourth Early English ; on the west side of
it is the porter's lodge. This Gatehouse opened on a court-
yard, on the opposite side of which was the Granary,
now converted into a barn. The Church and Conventual
buildings lay to the eastward. The foundations of the
greater part of the Church and of the entrance hall and
north side of the cloister have been recently laid bare. The
Church appears to have been about 300ft. long, with a Tower
in the centre, the nave being 30ft. in width. After the
•dissolution, the buildings seem to have been treated as a
common quarr\-, from which portions of the Castle and
many of the houses in the town were built. Traces of
stew ponds may be observed near the Inchford Brook, and
the piers of an old packhorse bridge are visible at a little
distance to the west of the present bridge.
Kenilworth has been the birthplace of three bishops, all
occupying the episcopal bench at the same time — Samuel
Butler, born 177-4, Bishop of Lichfield 1836-39 ; John Bird
JSmiiner, born 1780, Bishop of Chester 1828, Arclibi»liop of
Canterbury 1848-62 ; and Chai-les Richard Sumner, born
1790, Bishop of Landaff 1826, and of Winchester 1827-69.
'^ The Gateway is termed the Tantaro., a name derived from the clatter
made by a stUe placed in it, one side of which descends when pressed by
any person desh-ous of passing through, and when released, springs up
again with a rattling noise. Tantara is the provincial term for a confused
jioise, the word being an imitation of the roll of the di-um.
ROUTE 7.— KENILWORTH TO COVENTRY via.
GIBBET HILL.
Coventry may be reached either by road or by rail. The-
route by road is exceptionally pleasing. On leaving
Kenilworth, the Common is to be seen extending on the
right hand side ; on it are two rounded hills, dotted with
trees, and encircled with entrenchments of Early British
character, which may still be distinctly traced. A little
more than half a mile from this, the road expands into a
fine avenue, with broad strii^s of greensward on each side.
At two miles is Gibbet Hill, which takes its name from a
gibbet, erected in 1765, on the edge of AYainbody "Wood, at
the south-east corner of the road to Stoneleigh, nearly
opposite to the second milestone. On this gibbet were
executed, on the 17th of April, 1765, Moses Baker, a weaver,
of Coventry, and EdAvard Drury^ and Robert Leslie, two
dragoons belonging to Lord Pembroke's regiment, then
quartered in the city, who murdered a farmer named
Thomas Edwards, close to Whoberly, near the west end of
Coventry, on the 18th of March previous. The bodies
of the criminals were afterwards hung in chains here.
After serving as an instrument of death, the gibbet, which
was studded with small nails, was, about the year 1820,.
removed to a neighbouring farm, and became an auxiliary
of life as the framework of a corn staddle. Half a mile
further on, an oak in the sward, on the riglit, is termed
the " Half-way Oak." A mile beyond this is Stivichall
Common, ornamented by an avenue of oak trees, placed in
three rows on each side of the road. These were planted
in the last century by Mr. Gregory, the lord of the manor,,
who, at the same time, stocked the whole of his estate
with similar trees, in anticipation of the future wants of
the navy, and as a recognition of his public spirit, he was
accorded the privilege of using supporters to his arms.
At the top of Stivichall Hill, on the left, is Spencer Park, a
space of eleven acres, presented to the city of Coventry, as
a recreation ground, by Mr. David Spencer, and opened
in 1883. Beyond this are the buildings of the New
Grammar Scliool, built in 1885, in the Tudor style, to-
supersede the old school, which was established by John.
128 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Hales, after the dissolution, in the church of the Hospital
of St. John the Baptist. A little further on, the road
crosses the railway hy a bridge, where Tennyson " waited
for the train at Coventry, and hung with grooms and
porters on the bridge"; to the right of this is the Station.
The following itinerary of Coventry will be found useful :
From the Station, proceed along Baton Rncul to Grey Friars Green
(Statue of Sir T. White). Turn to the right at Union Street (Christ
Church), then to the left at ffrey Friars Lane (Ford's Hospital), and
thence to the right at High Street, oross the road and turn to the left \ip
Pepper Lane (old house at the corner). Continue along Pepper Lane to
Bailey Lane (County Hall, St. Mary's Hall, St. Michael's Church, Draper's
Hall). Turn to the left past the top of New Street by the Dispensary.
Turn to the left again along Priory Roid (Trinity Church on the left. Girl's
Blue Coat School, and remains of the Cathedral on the right). Then
to the right into BiUehern Row and BiUl Ring, thence to the left down
Ironmonger Row (Pilgrim's Rest p. h. and Palmer Lane), then
to the right to New Bnildings (remains of the Priory). Thence up
Hales Street to Swansvvell or Priory Gate, on the left, and onwards up
Jesson Street (Cook Street Gate on the left, St. Mai-k's Church opposite,
and Swanswell Pool and Pleasure Ground in the rear) to Stoney Stanton
Road (New Hospital). Thence back along Hales Street (New Opera
House on the right) to the corner of Silver Street (St. John's Hospital, now
a Mission Room, on the left). Thence along Burgess and Cross Cheaping
past Ironmonger Row (carved oak figure of St. George between ID and 16,
Cross Cheaping, on the right). Then to tlie left to West Orchard (Market
Hall). Tlien along West Orchard to Fleet Street (St. John's Church,
Bablake Old School, and Bond's Hosjiital). Then back by Smithford
Street (Barracks, site of the Bull Inn, Old Theati-e Royal, King's Head
Hotel with Peeping Tom, Corn Exchange, Queen's Hotel on the right).
Thence along High Street, toraing to the right into Little Park Street to
Park- Hollow (Odd-Fellows' Hall, No. 7, on the right ; Catherine Bayley's
School, No. 88, on the left ; Banner House, No. 28, on the right ; CJeorge
Eliot's School, No. 48, on the right ; Remains of City Wall, Park Hollow).
Thence along St. John's Street and lower part of Much Park Street CVVhite
Friars Monastery, now the Workhouse). Then by the London Rocul to
the Cemetery (Remains of Charter Hoiise, Whitley Conimon). Return
through Much Park Street (Old Green Dragon Inn, now a Brewery, on the
right; Knaves Post, formerly at 131, on the left). Thence to the left
along Earl Street (Old Star Inn and Palace Yard on the left). Thence
on the right through Jordan Well, Gosford Street (site of St. George's
Chapel and City Gate on the left), Dover Bridge to Gosford Green (site of
the intended Combat between the Dukes of Hereford and Norfolk).
Approached from the Station, the city occupies an
elevated site. The first point reached is Grey Friars Green,
so called from its proximity to the ancient monastery.
This was formerly an open tract, used as a common
recreation ground, on which, from 1825 to 1858, the great
June fair, which was established in the year 1218, by
Charter of Henry HI., and lasted eight days, was held. It
"was enclosed in 1876, as an ornamental pleasure ground.
At the north end is a statue of Sir Thomas White (1492-
1566), a native of Reading, and Lord Mayor of London in
J
r_
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 129
155y, who was a munificent benefactor of the city ; the
statue was inaugurated in 1883. Passing onwards, we
come to Christ Church, the elegant octagonal tower and
spire of which, rising to a height of 201ft. 3in., form the
sole relic of the ancient church of the Grey Friars
Monastery, built in the reign of Edward III., and the site
and remains of which were granted, about 1542, to the
Mayor and Corporation. The church, for a long period,
served as a quarry for building materials, but the tower
escaped. It stood for many years in an orchard, which
was leased to one Seager, a nurseryman, who kept pigs at
the foot of it, and used to boast " that he possessed the
tallest pig-stye in Europe.'' The third stage of the tower
contains twenty-four arches, arranged three on the face of
each octagon. In the year 1825, it was resolved to attach
a new church to the tower. The Corporation made over
the tower and spire for the purpose, and the work was
undertaken in 1829, and completed in 1832, when the
church was opened for worship. It is supposed to be in
the style of the original, but is a tasteless and
uninteresting building. The Cfrey Friars of Coventry
were particularly celebrated for their pageants on Corpus
Christi day.
Continuing onwards, we arrive at Grey Friars Lane,
which, until the year 1812, formed the main entrance to
the city on this side. Half-way up, on the right, stands
Ford's Hospital, an almshouse, founded, in 1529, by tlie will
of William Ford, a Coventry merchant, which provides for
forty aged poor women, seventeen of whom are furnished
with separate rooms, and the remainder are out-pensioners.
The house, the front of which is 40ft. long, is an exquisite
and unique specimen of timber framework construction.
The framework, which rests upon a stone basement,
consists of a ground floor and upper storey. The entrance
is by a depressed archway, with carved work in the
spandrils. On each side of it is a long window of nine
lights, in three sections, with glazed diamond quarries, and
elaborately carved headings. The upper storey, which
overhangs, has three gables, ornamented with carved
barge-boards with " hip - knobs," ^ and contains three
projecting windows, each of six lights. The whole of the
body of the front is relieved by panel work, decorated with
pilasters of different designs, carved out of the solid beams,
the main timbers beneath the gables being also richly
1 A hip knob is a finial, the lowei" part of which terminates in a pendant.
F
130 SHAKESPE ark's LAND.
carved. In the interior is an oblong court, the upper
storey of which overhangs ; at each end is a gable similar
to those on the exterior. The rooms of the inmates run
round this court ; the part over the archway was formerly
the chapel, and its east window still contains some
fragments of stained glass. A water spout bears the
initials and date J.M.W., 1784, and a doorway at the end
opposite the archway leads to a small garden.
Proceeding along this lane, we cross High Street and
reach Pepper Lane, at the corner of which is a picturesque
half-timbered gabled house of the time of Henry VII., with
overhanging upper stories, ornamented with carved boards
and pilasters. In Derby Lane, on the left, is an old timber
framed house, very much sagged. At the corner of Bailey
Lane, on the left, is the County Hall, erected in 1784. It
was formerly the Assize Court, but ceased to be so when
the assizes were transferred to Warwick, in the year 1864.
It is now used for the holding of weekly Petty Sessions,
Quarter Sessions, and County Courts. Next to it is the
Free Public Library, erected on the site of the old gaol, and
completed in 1873. Opposite to the tower of St. Michael's
is an old timber framed house, with panelled work on its
north and east faces recently restored.
Next to this is St. Mary's Hall, which outwardly has a
heavy appearance, the stonework in the front being in a
sad state of decay. The building, which was commenced
in 1394, and completed in 1414, formerly belonged to the
guilds of St. Mary, St. John the Baptist, Trinity, and St.
Katherine. At the south-west angle is the Tower, formerly
of five stages, three only of which remain, exhibiting on
the east side of the present summit, the turret doorway to
the upper part. The entrance is through a depressed arch-
way, furnished with solid oak doors, opening into a porch
with a finely vaulted roof. On the keystone of the arch is a
delineation of the Deity crowning the Virgin Mary. On
the projecting impost of the inward arch, on the right, is a
carving of " The Annunciation," the opposite impost being
ornamented with grotesque nondescript animals. On the
east side of the porch is a lofty room, formerly used as a
chapel for the Mercer's Company, whose arms are painted
on the wall. Beyond this is the Courtyard, on the west
side of which is the entrance to the crypt underneath the
Great Hall. The Crypt is formed into two chambers, the
larger of which is divided longitudinally into two parts
by three piers, each part containing four bays of vaulting.
IJear the windows are lockers for the safe keeping of
shake.speare's land. 131
documents, and other valuable property of members of the
guild. The smaller chamber, next the street, contains
several curiosities, amongst them being an old Stone
Coffin of the 13th century, found on the site of the Priory
in Hill Toj) ; the Knave's Post, removed from Much Park
Street in 1886, consisting of a figure, 6ft. high, with
armatures, evidently originally taken from some religious
house, and which formed the goal to which offenders
sentenced to flagellation were whipped at the cart's tail,
the point from which they started being the Mayor's
Parlour in Cross Cheaping, to which they were sometimes
whipped back ;^ and the old Stocks, witli spaces for three
sitters, which formerly stood in the Market Place, and
which were last used in July, 1861, when a woman was
placed in them for drunkenness. At the south end of the
court is the Kitchen, which was the original hall of the
Merchant's or St. Mary's Guild, and was converted to its
present use when the new hall was built. It has suffered
greatly from structural alterations at various periods. It
contains four great chimneys, with a louvre in the roof
for the emission of steam. The corbel blocks of the arch on
the north side have figures of angels holding shields, one
bearing the letters J.B. and a key, and the other a key and
a knot, both probably the insignia of masters of the Guild.
At the east side of the courtyard is the Lobby, which
contains a stone statue, much restored, and believed to
represent Henry VI. It was one of the principal figures
on the ancient City Cross in Cross Cheaping, and was
removed from it on its demolition, in 1771. From hence,
a broad staircase leads up to a Vestibule, containing some
Flemish tapestry with classical designs, which formerly
decorated the walls of the old house in Palace Yard. From the
Vestibule we enter the Great Hall, which is 70ft. long, 30ft.
broad, and 34ft. high, and is li^^hted by seven Perpendicular
windows, three on each side ot four lights, mullioned and
transomed, and one at the north end, of nine lights. The
north window is filled with ancient stained glass, the
upper part containing nineteen coats of arms, and the
lower a number of full length effigies of Kings, comprising
William I., Richard I., Henry V., Henry IV., Constantine
the Great, Arthur, Henry III., Henry VI., and one
unnamed, executed by John Thornton, a native of Coventry,
who was also the artist of the celebrated east window in
1 The last whipping is believed to have taken place somewhere between
1820 and 1S30.
132 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
York Minster. This window was, unhappily, re-leaded iu
the year 1824, when tlie limbs of several of the figures
were misplaced in the most incongruous fashion. The old
glass then existing in the remaining Avindows was, at the
same time, taken out, and modern glass inserted with
sorry results. On the west of the hall is the Oriel, which
was rebuilt in 1824-26. In it stands an ancient carved
buffet of the 15th century, together with a number of
old tiles, comprising sidereal, armorial and geometrical
patterns, with which the hall was formerly paved. The
windows are ornamented with ribbon like scrolls, contain-
ing the names of benefactors to the city. From the Oriel,
a narrow passage in the thickness of the west wall formerly
led through a doorway, now blocked up, to a gallery in the
street, from which decisions of Courts Leet were pro-
claimed. At the south end of the hall is the Minstrel
Gallery, in front of which are displayed some relics of
ancient civic armour, consisting of head-pieces and corslets,
with pikes and blackbills. The roof is of oak, richly
carved, the space above the tie beams being filled with
open panel work, in the centre of which are full length
figures of angels, bearing musical instruments, in the
following order from the dais— the crewth, the trumpet,
the cittern, the harp, and the bass flute, symbolically
representing the heavenly host. The bosses at the inter-
sections of the ribs are carved with devices. The
celebrated Tapestry, which hangs below the north window,
is of Flemish design, probably executed in this country in
the commencement of the 16th century, and, from the
correspondence of the lines of the divisions with the
principal muUions of the window above, evidently
intended for the place it now occupies. It is designed in
three compartments, each of which is divided into two
tiers, and is supposed to commemorate the visit of
Henry VI. and Queen Margaret to Coventry^ on the 21st
September, 1461, when they were the guests of the Prior of
the Benedictines for a week.
First Compartment, first tier (beginning from tlie left) : " Henry VI."
attended by a numerous retinue. The King is on his knees, in the attitude
of prayer, at a low table, covered with a diapered cloth, on which rests an
open missal, by the side of which is his crown, with diverging bows and
globe and cross, first introduced in his reign. IJehind the Kin.; is Cardinal
Beaufort. The rest of the attendants are standing, headed by Duke
Hiunphrey, who carries a book in his hand. The fignre behind Cardinal
Beaufort, holding a gold coin in his hand, is supposed to be the King's
almoner ; another figure, dressed in a coat of cloth of gold, fringed with
silver, and gown of light, blue colour, bordered with pink, is believed to
represent John, Viscount Beaumont, Earl of Boulogne, Constable and
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 133
Lord High Chambeilain of England. Both Cardinal Beaufort and Duke
Humphrey died in 1447, and the anachronism of their being represented
as present, is no doubt due to the fact that the tapestry was in all
probability executed half a century later than the event it commemorates.
Fir»t Compartment, second tier : {1) "St. Thaddeus with a Halbert" ; (2)
"St. Simon with a Saw"; (i) "St. Bartholomew with a Knife or
Dagger"; (4) (Indistinguishable); (5) "St. Andrew Leaning on his
Transverse Gross " ; (6) '' St. George Carrying a Banner with a Red Cross " ;
(7) " St. Peter with a Key " ; (8) " St. Adrian in Armour," standing on a
lion, and carrying a sword and the anvil; (9) "St. Paul with a long
Sword"; (10) "St. Thomas, St. Matthias, or St. Jude, with a Lance";
(11) " St. John the Evangelist with a Lamb, Flag, and Book." Second
Compartment, firat tier : " St. Mary in Glory," encircled by angels, having
the moon at her feet, borne up by an angel. On each side are the twelve
apostles, in attitudes of devotion. Second Compartinent, second tier: A
continuation of the scene below ; angels surround the Eternal Throne, four
of them carrying the instruments of passion. The centre, which formerly
■displayed a representation of the Trinity, was cut out after the Reforma-
tion, and a figiire of Justice substituted. Third Compartment, first tier:
" Margaret of Anjou," kneeling in prayer at a covered table, with an open
missal in front of her. She is attired in a brocaded yellow robe, and
wears her crown over a hood richly bordered with pear pearls ; behind her
are a numerous retinue, the most prominent figure in which is said to be
the Duchess of Buckingham. Third Compartnunt, second tier; (1) "St.
Catherine with the Sword and Wheel " ; (2) " St. Barbai'a bearing the
Book and Palm Branch " (the tower appears between her ana St.
Catherine) ; (3) " St. Dorothea with a Basket of Roses " ; (4) " St. Mary
Magdalene can-ying the Ointment Vessel"; (5) (Indistinguishable); (6)
"St. Margaret with the Dagger"; (7) "St. Agues >^-ith the Lamb and
Palm Branch"; (8) "St. Gertrude of NivelJes with a Crozier and three
White Mioe " ; (9) " St. Ann with a Book and Wand " ; (10) "St. Apollonia
holding a Tooth by a pair of Pincers," a demon hovering over lier. The
border is ornamented with red roses of heraldic type. The subjects in the
centre compartment denote the connection of the building with the Trinity
Guild, whose property it was, and with the Guild of St. Mary, which was
incorporated with it. In the otlier compartments the figures of St. John
and St. Catherine are emblematical of the other two guilds, which formed
part of the incorporation, while the figures of St. George and St. Margaret
represent the tutelary saints of the King and Queen.
The oak seat below the tapestry i.s one of the original
adjuncts of the hall. On the walls are some Latin inscrip-
tions, that on the west side, surmounted by the letters
E.K., celebrates Queen Elizabeth; that on the east wall,
having the initials E.R., with the date 1581, commemorates
the Black Prince ; while at the back of the hall, on the
west side, is a text from Ecclesiasticus, ch. xliv., v. 9. On
the Avails are several full length portraits : — East side of
the dais, " George III." in the robes of the Order of the
Garter, by Sir T. Lawrence, presented by Lord Eardley and
Mr. J. Wilmot in 1792; west of the dais, "George IV.," by
Sir T. Lmorence. East wall, " Queen Caroline " (original),
" Queen Anne," " Queen Mary " (copy). West wall, " AVilliam
III." (copy), " George I.," " George II." (original). South
end, "James II.," Lely, "Charles II.," Lely. Under the
134 shakespeabb's lan'i>.
Minstrel Gallerj- is the entrance to the Muniment Room,
which contains a most interesting collection of valuable
documents, a selection of which are exposed in glass cases.
The earliest of them is a Charter from Ranulph, Earl of
Chester, of the reign of Henrj' II ; a Charter of Confirma-
tion of the reign of Charles II. contains a fine portrait of
the King. Amongst noteworthy letters is one from
Margaret, Countess of Richmond and Derby, mother of
Henry VII., commanding instant notice of a neglected
letter ; two of Henry VIII.'s, one with a -^Titten signature,
and the other stamped with a wooden stamp ; one from
Cardinal Wolsey, appointing a governor in the absence of
the Mayor; one from Anne Boleyn to the Mayor, dated
September 12th, 1534, announcing the birth of her daughter,
afterwards Queen Elizabeth ; one from Queen Elizabeth,
dated 1570, respecting the arrival at Coventry of Marj',
Queen of Scots ; and others from Edward IV., Richard III.,
Henry VII., James I., Charles II., James II., Archbishops
Cranmer and Laud, Sir Thomas White, Bishop Juxon, and
Richard Baxter. An indenture concerning jewels, which
the Duke of Clarence had pledged to the city, dated
Warwick, 1478, contains evidence of the Duke's impecu-
niosity. The trade marks of Guild members, impressed in
wax, from the reign of Edward I. to the latter part of the
15th century, are very remarkable ; and there is an
immense collection of miscellaneous documents, comprising
some 20,000 in all, of leases, deetls of gift, charters, grants,
licenses, &c. The Holy Trinity Guild Book contains the
name of Shakespeare among the brothers and sisters^
Here is also kept the curious head gear of the leading
officials of the Corporation, including the fur cap of
maintenance of the sword bearer, a hat resembling in
shape that of a cardinal, with gold tassels and gold fringe
on the top, worn by the mace bearer, and two cocked hats
belonging to the chamberlain and crier. There are also
some old copper wool scales, inscribed " Maior Thomas
King 1670." At the back of the Minstrel Gallerj-, in a
spacious room, formerly used as the Armoury, is a large
picture, styled " The Baccanali, "' by Luca Ciordano.,
measuring 19ft. by lOWt., and presented to the city by the
Hon. E. Ellice, M.P., in 1855. It is a meritorious work'
representing Bacchus springing from his car at the sight
of Ariadne on the shores of Naxos, his attendant traia
dancing in animated style;, At the back of this room is
another chamber, reputed by some to be the place of
confinement of Marj', Queen of Scots. On the right of
Shakespeare's land. 135
the dais, a doorway, approached by a flight of six steps,
leads to the Mayoress's Parlour. On the wall of the lobby
is a brass tablet of the year 1568, recording the conditions
of a lease, granted in 1549, by the Duke of Northumberland,
relating to the depasturage of cattle in Cheylesmore Park,
and the renewal of the privileges by Queen Elizabeth, at
the request of the Earl of Leicester. The ceiling of the
Parlour is moulded, and consists of two compartments
with diagonal ribs, uniting in an octagonal panel. The
fireplace is of stone, formed by a depressed Tudor arch, the
jambs being hollowed and ornamented with tracery,
copied from the Banquetting Hall of Kenilworth Castle.
Over it, in a niche, is the tigure of Godiva on horseback.
At one end of the room is the ancient oak chair of state,
elaborately carved, the earliest mention of which occurs in
1560. On one side is a figure of the Virgin and child, the
other being simply panelled. The arms of Coventry (the
elephant and castle) surmount the back on one side, and on
the other, which was the centre in its original state, are
two lions rampant, acting as supporters to a coronet or
crown, which is gone. The chair, when perfect, was a
double one, and was probably used by the Master of the
Guild and the Mayor at the meetings of the Guild. Mary,
Queen of Scots was a prisoner here in the year 1569.
On the walls of the room are the following half length
portraits :—
" Qween Elizabeth," "Queen Mary" (by Sir Antonio More), "James
1.," "Charles I.," "Christopher Davenport" (Mayor in 1602), "John
Hales" (founder of the Free School, died 1572), "Sir Thomas White"
(died .51)6), "The Countess Godiva," "Thomas Jesson" (benefactor to
Ford's Hospital, died f6:34), "Samuel Nind Whitwell" (Mayor 1800, 1S28,
1829), " Samuel Baker" (founder of a Charity School, died 1695).
Next to St. Mary's Hall is the Drapers' Hall, belonging
to the Drapers' Company, a portion of which, containing a
fine ball room, is now used as a club house.
Opposite St. Mary's Hall rises the grand edifice of St.
Michael's Cliurch, an early and remarkably fine specimen
of Perpendicular architecture, with a tower and spire of
exquisite grace and symmetry. The earliest mention of
this church occurs in a grant of it, in the reign of King
Stephen, to the Prior of the adjacent Benedictine Monastery.
Fragments of the original building, which was of Norman
design, have been discovei*ed from time to time. This
edifice was superseded, in the 13th century, by an Early
English church, of which only the south porch, with some
portions of the walls and the south west doorway, remain.
Practically speaking, the church, as it now exists, was
136
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
erected between the year 1373 and the middle of the next
century, and is the outcome of the munificence of a family
of the name of Botoner. William and Adam, two brothers
of this family, were eminent merchants and citizens of
Coventry, and each three times filled the oifice of Mayor.
According to tradition, a brass plate, with the following
inscription, formerly existed in the church : —
William and Adam built the Tower
Aim and Mary built the spire ;
William and Adam built the church
Ann and Mary built the quire.
The Tower was begun in 1373, and finished in 1394, its cost
being defrayed by yearly payments of £100 on the part of
the brothers William and Adam Botoner. The spire was
commenced in 1432, by the sisters Ann and Mary Botoner,
but the date of its completion is not recorded. In the
year 1434, the sisters further undertook the construction of
the central aisle. The tower is of four stages, and rises to
a height of 136ft. The first stage contains the western
doorway and windows, the next is ornamented with
decorative panelling, and the two upper stages are pierced
with windows, and enriched with panelling and canopied
niches, containing figures. The tower is finished with
battlements, having crocketted pinnacles at the angles.
The following figures occupy niches in the tower: —
North Side.
S. George.
Holy Trinity.
S. James the less.
(window)
West Side.
S. John the Evangelist. Virgin and Child.
S. Christopher.
S. Catherine.
S. Thaddeus.
Henry VI.
Catherine.
S. Peter.
S. Matthew.
Mary Botoner.
William Botoner.
S. Philip.
Leofrio.
Edward III.
Christ.
S. Michael.
(window)
South Side.
S ' Bartholomew.
S. Mary Magdalen..
S. Simon.
(window)
East Side.
S. Clement.
S. Stephen.
S. Mathias.
S. Anne.
S. Thomas.
S. John the Divine.
Queen Margaret.
Richard II.
S. Mark.
S. James.
S. Luke.
Adam Botoner.
Ann Botoner.
Lady Godiva.
Edward VI.
S. Lawrence.
S. Paul.
Bishop Roger.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 137
From the main tower rises an Octagonal Laritern, 32ft. in
height, having windows facing the four cardinal points of
the compass, and ornamental panelling in the intermediate
spaces. The tower is supported by flying buttresses of
wonderful lightness and elegance, two of which spring
from each pinnacle of the main tower, and rest against the
angles of the octagon, the latter being capped by the
graceful Spire, ornamented with fluting and embossed
pilasters, which rises to the further height of 130ft.
the total elevation of tower and spire being 298ft. The
oldest part of the church is the South Porch, opposite St.
Mary's Hall. This porch is groined, and is enclosed by
double doors. Above it is a room, originally a parvise or
priest's chamber, and subsequently the chamber of the
Cappers' Company. It contains a chimney-piece, the upper
part of which is ornamented with a floreated cross,
evidently taken from some old tomb. The Choir comes
next in point of time, being evidently of earlier date than
the nave, as the arches are loftier, and the mouldings more
deeply cut, though the interval between the two cannot
amount to more than half a century. The pentagonal
Apse at the east end is more common in Continental
Churches than in England. The ancient Sacristy, running
round the lower part of the exterior, is connected with it
by flying buttresses. The point at which the chancel
starts from the nave is rendered very apparent by the
remarkable deviation northwards which the former shows
in place of continuing the direct course of the latter. This
peculiarity has been variously accounted for without
satisfactory results. The interior consists of nave, chancel,
and four aisles, two on each side. The inner aisles extend
to the commencement of the apse, the outer ones are much
shorter, and owe their origin to the numerous and wealthy
trade guilds which formerly existed in the city, whose
members contributed to the foundation and maintenance
of chapels in these aisles. The total length of the church
is 293ft. 9in., the greatest breadth 127ft. The nave opens
to the aisles by six bays, having four centred arches. The
interior, viewed from the west end, has a charmingly
bright and elegant effect, produced by the gracefulness of
the columns and the lightness of the clerestory, the
windows of which are so close as to give the whole length
of wall the appearance of being perforated. The western
arch of the church is of noble proportions ; the beautifully
groined vaulting, which is 90ft. from the floor, springs
from the third stage of the tower. The space between the
138- SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
windows and the arches of the nave is covered with panel
work. The roof, formed of panelled oak, is of low pitch.
The ceiling of the nave is undecorated, but the sanctuary
is painted blue, and enriched with gilt bosses and stars ;
the rest of the chancel is unpainted, but ornamented with
bosses and stars. In the large columns on the north side
of the choir are traces of the door which led to the stair-
case communicating with the ancient rood loft. The
designations of the various chapels in the outer aisles, in
which the members of the different guilds worshipped,
are still maintained. Commencing at the south side, next
to the tower, we first come to the Dyers' Chapel, the
windows of which contain some good stained glass. On
the east wall is a large marble monument, bearing two
medallions and an inscription to Dame Mary Bridgeman,
widow of Sir Orlando Bridgeman, who died June 8th, 1701.
A handsomely carved modern font, of Bath stone, stands in
the chapel. On the wall eastward, between the Dyers'
Chapel and the south porch, is an alabaster monument,
with a singular Latin inscription, to Abraham Astley,
a doctor, who died January 22nd, 1662. Underneath this
is a brass, originally removed from the floor at the west
end, commemorating Captain Gervase Scrope, of Bolton,
who died August 25th, 1705, aged 66. It bears " an epitaph
written by himself, in the agony and dolorous paines of
the gout, and dyed soon after," which sets out his misfor-
tunes in quaint verse. On the same wall, a small square
brass to the memo^^' of Lisle Cave (died February 10th,
162|), and another brass, with verses, and a kneeling
figure of Ann Sewel (died December 20th, 1609), attired in
a broad brimmed hat, close cap, plaited ruff sticking out
horizontally about her neck, and a bodiced gown or
stomacher, with a full train and tight fitting sleeves,
gathered up rather full at the shoulders. Next comes the
Cappers' Room, over the south porch. On the east side of
tills is St. Thomas's or the Cappers' Chapel, on the west side
of which is a large coloured marble monument, 15ft. high,
with three busts, commemorative of the members of the
Hopkins family, who at one time occupied the historic man-
sion in Palace Yard. Eichard Hopkins died February 1st,
1707 ; Mary, his wife, died October 13th, 1711. Their son,
Edward Hopkins, died January 17th, 1735-6 ; Anna Maria,
3 wife, died February 9th, 1768. Their eldest son,
Eichard, died March 18th, 1799. Eichard Hopkins the
elder represented Coventry in seven Parliaments, from
1660 to 1701, Edward Hopkins in 1708. Eichard Hopkins
shakespeake's land. 139
the younger served in seven successive Parliaments during
38 years. On the south wall, below St. Thomas's Chapel,
between two windows, is a large monument, surmounted
by a bust, having underneath the figures of two angels,
pointing to an inscribed scroll, and below it an inscription
to Edward Atkins, a charitable benefactor, who died 12th
March, 1793. The outer aisle ends here. The Mercers'
Chapel contains some stained glass of fair character. The
organ, erected in 1887, stands in this chapel ; it contains
some of the pipes of the old organ, constructed by Schwar-
brick in 1733, which formerly stood at the west end of the
church. Near this is a high tomb of Renaissance character,
styled Wade's tomb. The slab appears formerly to have
borne two figures, with a canopy and brass plate, and a
brass band round the verge, with an inscription. At the
east end are seven shields, with defaced coats of arms, one
of them bearing the motto " Ryen savnce Travayle."^ On
the front, under canopies, are six sculptured figures ot
males and females, in the costume apparently of the reign
of Edward VI. or Mary, and at the lower end are three
figures, two males and one female, supposed to represent
relations of the deceased. In 1536, Christopher Wade was
Mayor, and, in 1557, a mercer of the name of John Wayd
lived in Coventry. Above this tomb is a painted stone
tablet, with an inscription couched in the most florid spirit
of rhodomontade, commencing "an Elegicall epitaph, made
upon the death of that mirror of women, Ann Newdigate,
Lady Skefflngton, wife of that true moaneing turtle. Sir
Richard Skefflngton, Kt., & consecrated to her eternal
memorie by the unfeigned lover of her vertues, AYillm.
Bulstrode, Knight." This is followed by verses of magnilo-
quent eulogy on Lady Skeffington, who died May 21,
1637. Next to Wade's is another high tomb of marble,
with a slab bearing the arms of the Moore and
Harewell families, and an inscription, in Latin, to
Elizabeth, wife of Joseph Moore (died 15th May, 1640),
Judith, his mother (died 11th September, 1636), and three
young children. At the east end of the chapel is a high
tomb with recumbent effigies of Elizabeth Swillyngton, and
on either side of her, her two husbands, Thomas Essex in
armour, and Ralph Swillyngton in his gown and chaio of
office. The second husband, Ralph Swillyngton, was
appointed Recorder of Coventry in 1615, and was the King's
Attorney General in 1524. The following inscription runs
1 Nothing without labour.
140 Shakespeare's land.
round the verge — "Orate pVia Elizabeth Swillyngton
vidue, mip. uxoris Radulph Swillyngton, Attornati Gen'alis
B'ni Regis Henrici Octavi, Recordatoris Civitatis Cove'trie,
quond'm uxoris Thome Essex, armigeri ; que quidem
Elizabeth obiit dn anno d'ni Mill'mo CCCCC ."^ The
date is incomplete, but should be 1552. A flight of
descending steps leads from this chapel into the Vesti~yy
which is an extension of the ancient sacristy, and forms a
series of chambers round the apse. Carved on the wall is
a crucifix, supposed to be the work of some ecclesiastical
prisoner. On the north side is a small lychnoscope, now
blocked up, through which probably, in olden times, the
high altar was watched by a priest. The large oak table
now here formerly stood in St. Andrew's Chapel, where it
was used every Sunday, in connection with the distribution
of the gift of bread to the poor. Returning to the church,
we come to the apse, which was formerly the Lady Chapel.
The modern stained glass in the three central windows is
of inferior character, both in design and colouring ; the
other windows contain fragments of old stained glass,
collected from the ancient windows. The reredos is
composite, partly of Early English and partly of Decorated
character ; the eastern compartments contain sculpture
of a meritorious character. Between the windows are
niches containing figures of the four Evangelists, and at
each end of the arcade is the figure of an angel, holding a
scroll. Passing to the north aisle, we enter the Drapers^
Chapel, the western end of which terminates in a screen of
open carved work, formed of wood collected from various
parts of the church in 1830. At the east end is a fine
Jacobean table. This chapel contains thirteen stalls, with
finely carved standards and misereres or folding seats, the
vmdersides of which are whimsically carved, the following
being the most noticeable designs : — (1) " The Resurrec-
tion " ; (2) " Batfowling " ; (3) " Satan chained and wearing
bat's wings, held down by two angels." Subjects illustra-
tive of the " Dance of Death," - each having on either side
a figure of Death holding a person by the hand ; (4) " A
Sick Person in Bed," ministered to by a physician and
1 " Pray for the soul of Elizabeth Swillyiigton, widow, late the wife of
Ralph SwillyDgton, Attorney General of the Lord King Henry VIII.,
Recorder of the City of Coventry, formerly the wife of Thomas Essex,
esquiie ; which said Elizabeth died in the year of our Lord, 15 . . ."
2 The subjects carved on misereres are very diversified, in many oases they
are satirically didactic ; in the present instance they seem designed Xo
inculcate that we should not slight our mortality.
shakespeaee's land. 141
other attendants ; (5) " A Man Kneeling while he is being
denuded of his Shirt " ; (6) " Two Men depositing in an
open grave a Body in a Winding Sheet, the officiating
priest holding a torch in one hand and a book in the other ' ';
(7) "A Figure wearing the Papal Tiara"; (8) "A Figure
with a Shield, bearing a cross on his breast, with two
mermen or mermaids on each side." Outside another seat
is a burning bundle on one side, and on the other a man
threshing a sheaf of wheat, probably emblematical of the
wheat and the tares. At the north side of the east window
is a marble monument, containing a finely carved figure of
a dying soldier on the battlefield, by Chantrey, with an
inscription to the memory of Lieutenant-Colonel the Hon.
•F. W. Hood, who was killed in action at Aire, in Gascony,
March 2nd, 1814 ; below is a brass plate to his widow, the
Hon. Caroline Hood, who died March 11th, 1858. On the
North wall is a brass, removed from the floor in
front, bearing an inscription to the memory of Thomas
Bond, draper. Mayor of Coventry, 1497, and founder
of the Bablake Hospital, who died March 18th, 1506.
Passing through the screen, we come to St. Lawrence's
Chapel. On the north wall is an alabaster tablet,
removed from the Girdlers' Chapel, to the memory
of William Purefoy, of Caldecote, died June 22nd, 1674,
and his three daughters, Anne, Jane, and Mary. Near this
is a marble monument, with arms and the motto— "Pure foy
ma joye,'" with a preposterous Latin inscription to the
memory of Thomas Purefoy, a boy of nine, who died
November 25th, 1648. Adjoining this is an old monument,
without date, to Mrs. Bathona Frodsham (died 1661),
daughter of John Hales, who entertained Queen Elizabeth.
Next is the Girdlers' Chapel, which stands at the com-
mencement of the north outer aisle ; in the north east
angle is a restored piscina. The last chapel is the Smith's
or St. Andi-eivs, which contains the following tombs,
removed here from the Drapers' Chapel. Against the north
wall is a black marble high tomb, the sides of which are
divided into panels by veined pilasters, with an inscription
to Sir Thomas Berkeley, of Caludon Castle, who died
November 22nd, 1611, and his son Henry, who died March
4th, 1611-12. Against the west wall is another high tomb,
of alabaster, richly carved, to William Stanley, died
December 18th, 1640, a native benefactor of the town, and
Master of the Merchant Taylors' Company, in London.
Next to this is another high tomli, with a Latin inscription
to the following effect — " Here lies Julius Nethermyl,
142 shakespeake"s land.
draper, sometime Mayor of this city, who died the Uth
day of the month of April, iu the year of our lord 1539, and
Joan, his wife, on whose souls God have mercy, Amen."
On the front of the tomb, in basso relievo, are figures of
Julius Nethermyl and his wife, with their shield of arms
between them. Behind the father are five sons, and
behind the mother five daughters ; at each end are cherubs
holding back the drapery. Julius Nethermyl was Mayor
of Coventry in 1522. Above this is a brass plate, formerly
on the north wall of the chancel, with a kneeling figure, in
front of whom are four children in swathing bands, and
an inscription, in Latin, commemorating Mary Hinton,
wife of a vicar of St. Michael's, who died April 27th, 1694.
On the same wall is a brass with an inscription to Mrs.
Mary Vavasor (died December 24th, 1631j, and another to
John Wightwick (died March 19th, 1637). Standing
against the south pillar of the chancel is the Pulpit, a
handsome example of modern metal work, designed by
Skidmore, and presented to the church in 1869. It is of
hexagonal shape, the upper part being of brass, supported
by ironwork ; the steps are of oak with a brass rail. The
fine Eagle opposite to the pulpit was the result of a legacy
in 1867, and the brass altar rails were erected in 1866.
The Font at the west end is probably the one given to the
church in 1394, by John Crosse, the then Mayor, as it bears
a small brass plate, engraved with a shield containing four
crosses, the ancient merchant mark. A collection of
ancient glass, from various parts of the church, has been
inserted in the centre windows of the clerestory of the
nave. On the north side of the church is temporarily
deposited the peal of bells, ten in number, which formerly
hung in the tower, but being deemed too heavy for it, now
await the construction of a special belfry. The tenor weighs
32 cwt. A Crypt extends underneath St. Lawrence's
Chapel, and there were two beneath the Drapers' Chapel ;
the western of these has indications of an altar, with
piscina and aumbry ; the eastern has been appropriated for
burial purposes. On the north side of the middle walk in
the churchyard, near the top, towards Trinity Church, is a
tombstone with the following curious inscription; — "To
the Memory of Mr. John Parkes; a native of this City.
He was a man of mild disposition ; a gladiator by pro-
fession ; who having fought 350 battles, in the principal
parts of Europe with honour and applause, at length
quitted the stage, sheathed his sword, and with Christian
resignation, submitted to the grand victor, in the 52d year
SHAKESPEARES LAND. 143
of his age, anno 1733." In the churchyard is also the
tombstone of Ann Bartley, died 17th March 1814, aged 42,
an actress of merit, whose husband, George Bartley (1784-
1858) was a prominent actor in London until his retirement
in 1853, being specially distinguished for his performance
of Falstaff. The epitaph states that " she had a tear for
pity and a hand open as day to melting charity."
Holy Trinity Church. The date of the original foundation
of this church is unknown ; the oldest part of the present
building, consisting of the portions in and above the north
porch, is not of an earlier date than the year 1259, in which
year the church was appropriated to the Priory. An
earlier fabric must consequently have existed before that
date. The existing structure differs essentially from St.
Michael's Church, both in form and construction, though
probably built only a comparatively brief time before that
church. It is cruciform in shape, consisting of a chancel
with chapels, nave with north and south aisles, and
transepts. The Tower and Spire rise from the centre,
supported on four arches, springing from massive but well
proportioned piers. The church is 178ft. long by 67ft.
broad. The spire was blown down, during a terrific gale,
on the 24th January 1665, and, in its fall, caused great
damage to the church. The work of rebuilding it was
immediately commenced, and, in 1667, it was completed to
an altitude of 237ft., which was several feet higher than
its predecessor. An attempt was made, at the same time,
to imitate the octagon tower of St. Michael's, but with
indifferent results. The North Torch, which is the most
ancient part, has a vaulted roof, and over it a domus or
priest's chamber. On the east side of it is a window,
which was formerly a doorway leading into St. Thomas's
Chapel. The arches of this church, it will be noticed, are
two centred, while those of St. Michael's are four centred ;
the fourth bay arches form flying buttresses to the tower.
In the space above the west arch, under the tower, is an
ancient fresco, illustrative of the Last Judgment, discovered
in 1831, and now, unfortunately, becoming obscured. In
the centre is the Saviour seated on a rainl30w, attended on
each side by six apostles, slightly underneath being the
Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist. Two angels, with
trumpets, are sounding the summons to judgment, and the
dead are issuing from their tombs. On the right of the
Saviour, a Pope is represented as entering Paradise, while,
on the left, doomed spirits are being conveyed to torment.
The wooden roof, which was restored in 1854, is illuminated
144 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
in red, blue, and gold. The Clerestory is of the Perpen-
dicular period, divided into eight bays, each containing
two windows, continued downwards in panel work. The
aisles of the church were, in ancient times, divided into
chapels. The iirst of these, the Archdeacon's^ adjoins the
north porch on the west, and was used as a Consistorj' or
Archdeacon's Court. It contains the following monuments :
A white marble monument, with the family arms, sur-
mounted by a male bust between two female busts, with
an inscription to the memory of John Bohun, of Finham
(died February 23rd, 16'J1), ilary, his wife, and Mary, their
daughter, married to George Lucy, of Charlecote. A brass
plate, with a portrait ot John Whithed, Mayor of Coventry
in 1596, in his official robes, standing in a devotional
attitude behind an altar, at each end of which his two
wives are kneeling in prayer. Underneath the wives,
and separated by a small altar, are two groups of children,
kneeling face to face in the attitude of prayer. John
AVhithed, died August 6th, 1597. A large canopied
monument of late l.nth or early 16th century character,
dedication unknown, but from the presence of an apparent
rebus, in the form of a moor's head and a tun on the frieze,
supposed to commemorate a person or family of the name
of Morton. A monument to Dr. Philemon Holland, an
eminent scholar and physician who settled in the city, and
died February 9th, 1636, aged 85. His translation of Livy
is said to have been written with one pen, which he com-
memorated in the following lines : —
With one sole Pen I writ this book,
Made of a grey goose quill ;
A pen it was when it I took,
And a Pen I leave it still.
Next, on the east side of the porch, was St. Tho7nas's
Chapel, adjoining which, and occupying the north transept,
was Corjms Christi and Cellefs Chantry, followed by Marlers'
or the Mercers Chnpel in the centre light of the most
westerly window of which will be found the small remains
of the ancient stained glass, collected from various parts of
the church. The most interesting pieces are the heads of
Leofric and Godiva, brought from the window over the
south door. Dugdale says they were set up about the time
of King Eichard II., and that Leofric held in his right
hand a charter, with these words inscribed : —
I Luriche for the love of thee
Doe make Coventre Tol-free.
Next comes Our Lady's O'hapel, which now forms the choir
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 145
Testry. On the south side, at tlie west end, was the
Barkers' or Tanners' Chapel, which contains a small
piscina. The south transept was occupied by Jesus
Chapel, which was at a considerable height above the
present floor. It will lie noticed that the piscina and
aumbry are a little above the level of the sill of the
window, the space beneath having been occupied liy an
arched passage, which formerly led through the churchyard ;
this was closed in 1834, and finally opened to the church in
1855. Next to the transept, eastwards, was the Butchers'
Chapel. The Puljnt attached to the south-east pier of the
tower is a fine specimen of stonework in the Perpendicular
style, approached by a flight of stone steps, bordered by a
handsomely wrought hand rail of polished brass, the
Font, whicli stands ou its original base of two steps, is
Decorated, with sunk panels, painted and gilt. The Brass
Eaxjle is of great artistic interest, being coeval with the
church, and one of the earliest examples of a core casting.
The walls on each side of the altar are richly illuminated
in gold and colour, with paintings of angels, some bearing
incense, and some in attitudes of adoration. The Heredos,
erected in 1873, is a handsome work, representing, in the
centre, the Crucifixion, with the Nativity on one side, and
the Ascension on the other. The ancient oak stalls were
removed here from the north aisle. The fine West Windoio
of seven lights, with a transom, is Perpendicular, and
contains figures of Christ and the Apostles in stained glass.
The Vestry has a panelled oak roof with carved oak bosses.
It contains a portrait, painted liy Rosenberg, of Dr. Hook
(1798-1875), Vicar of the parish 1829-1837, and subsequently
Dean of Chichester, and author of "The Lives of the
Archbishops of Canterbury." The register records the
marriage, on the 25th November, 1773, of Sarah Kemble
(1755-1831), the celebrated actress, with AVilliam Siddons.
Her father's theatrical company was, at the time, per-
forming in the Drapers' Hall. The ancient Alms Box,
which stands against the oak screen at the west end of the
church, is a beautiful specimen of the Elizabethan period,
the shaft which supports it being covered with arabesque
scroll work and other details.
On the north side of Trinity Church, adjoining the Girls'
Blue Coat School, are tlie remains of the inner part of the
west front of The Cathedral, which was built, about 1260,
on the south side of the Norman structure which preceded it.
The sill of the west doorway, and a newel staircase in the
south-west corner, which led up to the tower, are still
146 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
visible. The cathedral was the Priory Church of the great
Benedictine Monaster^', founded in 1043 by Leofric, Earl of
Mercia, and richly endowed by his munificence, and that
of his wife, Godiva. In style and form it is believed to
have resembled Lichfield Cathedral, and must, therefore,
have been of great length, with towers and spires on
the west front, and a central tower and spire at the
crossings. The general site of the monastic buildings-
occupied the whole area of the slope between this spot
and the River Sherbourne. At the time of the Dissolution,
they were condemned to demolition.
Passing onwards, we come to the Butcher Row, which
contains a number of characteristic old half timbered
houses. On the right is the Spotted Dog public-house,
which marks the site of the great gateway of the Cathedral,
which fell in the last century. Hence we arrive at a
public-house, at the corner of P(7^>Hf?-ia«f, which, together
with the two dwelling houses on its east side, was built on
the site of the Old Guest House of the Monaster5\ It bears
a tablet with the following inscription : — " Palmer Lane.
Upon this scite stood the western part of a large and very
ancient edifice called The Pilgrim's Rest. It was supposed
to have been the hostel or inn for the maintenance and
entertainment of the Palmers and other visitors to the
Priory of Benedictine monks, which stood near to the
Eastward. It became ruinous, and was taken down A.D.,.
MDCCCXX., when this house was erected." To the right,
in Neiv Buildinffs, the remains of the lower portion of th&
north-west tower of the west front of the Cathedral can be
best examined.
Hence, passing up Sales Street, we arrive at Swanswell
or Priory Gate, the archway of which has been blocked up,
and converted into dwellings with a gabled roof. This is
the first in order of the two gates remaining out of the twelve
which formed part of the ancient fortifications of the city.
Edward III., in 1328, granted the monks and citizens-
licence to encompass Coventrj* with an embattled wall, but
the work was not begun until 1355, and took forty years
to complete. The walls were of various heights, according-
to position, with a thickness of about 8ft. and were two
miles and a quarter in circuit. They had twelve gates and
thirty-two minor towers. They were dismantled after'
the Restoration, as a penalty for the support given by the
citizens to the Parliamentarian cause.
Proceeding up Jesson Street, we come to Cook Street Gate,
the second remaining representative of the ancient gates^
shakespeark's land. 147
The battlements are gone, and it is now a mere shell, open
to the top. In the piers of the outer arch, the grooves of
the portcullis may still be seen, as well as the doorways on
each side, leading up to the wall. Opposite to this, at the
corner of Bird Street, is St. Mark's Church, built of red
sandstone, in the Perpendicular style, and consecrated in
1869 ; it adjoins the Swanswell Pool and Recreation Grounds,
laid out and planted by the Corporation, and thrown open
to the public in October, 1883. Close at hand is the
Coventry and Warwickshire Hospital, a handsome structure
of two stories, built, in 1864-66, in the form of a Maltese
cross ; the style being termed by the architect the
" Victorian Gothic."
Retracing our steps to Hales Street, we pass, on the
right, the New Opera House, opened in 1889, and at the
corner of Silver Street, arrive at the Church of St. John's
Hospital. This hospital was founded, in 1160-1176, for the
benefit of the poor and infirm, and its possessions were, at
the Dissolution, granted to John Hales, who, in 1572,
established a free school in the chapel. This school was,
in 1885, removed to Stivichall Hill, near the railway
station, and the building is now occupied as a Mission
Room to Holy Trinity Church. Many of the curious
stalls, deprived of their original seats, are still retained
in this room, the misereres being now preserved in the new
school. The building has suffered greatly from alterations
at various periods, but the east window, an elaborate
specimen of Decorated tracerj' of flamboyant character,
still remains.
Thence, proceeding along Burgess to Gross Cheaping,
between the doorways of Nos. 15 and 16, on the west side,
will be noticed a wooden pilaster, on the top of which is a
carved oak figure of St. George slaying the Dragon, the
sole remains of an elegant Gothic gateway. A little
beyond is the Market Place, at the corner of which is a Coffee
Tavern, occupying the site of the Mayor's Parlour, built in
1574, and disused in 1835. From hence, turning into West
Orchard, which covers the site of an orchard belonging to
the old Priory, we come to the Market Hall, with a clock
tower 135ft. high, and a main hall 144ft, by 90ft.
Proceeding onwards, we arrive at the Church of St. John
the Baptist, or Bablake Church, the latter designation being
given to it from the title of the ancient site which, in its
turn, is supposed to have derived its name from a water
conduit close by. The site was given, in 1344, to the Guild
•of St. John by Queen Isabel (1290-1358), mother of Edward
148 shakespeaee's land.
III., " She -wolf of France with unrelenting fangs," and a
church was forthwith commenced, which was completed in
in loaO. In 1357, William Walsheman, valet to Queen
Isabel, gave more land for the enlargement of the church,
undertaking at the same time the construction of a new
aisle, and subsequently in conjunction with his wife, he
made further gifts towards the cost of erection. Gifts
from others helped on the work, but the process of
construction lasted from thirty to forty years. The church
covers one side of a quadrangle, the remainder of which is
occupied by tlie buildings of Bond's Hospital and the old
Bablake School. The fabric, which is cruciform in its
clerestory, and nearly oblong in its ground plan, consists
of a nave, chancel, and quasi-transepts, with aisles to both
nave and chancel. A handsome lantern tower, with
battlements and turrets at the angles, springs from the
centre. A peculiarity of the church is that it is not
rectangular in any part. The chancel inclines northward,
the north transept westward, and the south transept east-
ward, and the transitional period at which the church is
built is indicated by the fact that the western piers of the
tower are of earlier type than the eastern. The piers are
well moulded, and surmounted by small moulded caps at
the spring of the arches. Tlie roof of the tower is
handsomely groined with diagonal ribs, converging in an
octagonal panel. The west window, which is of six lights,
with a transom, is a very fine specimen of Perpendicular
work, and was restored in 1841. The window at the end
of the south aisle, and the lower window in the south
transept, are also pleasing examples. The south aisle is
known as Walsheman's aisle, from the name of its founder.
The north and south chancel aisles possess piscinas at the
east end. The north aisle has a relieving arch in its
base, and contains a door which formerly led to the
Hermitage, and ultimately to the chamber of the
priests Avho served the church. After the Eeforma-
tion, the church was only occasionally used, and fell into
a dilapidated condition. In 1648, it was employed as a
temporary place of confinement for soldiers of the Scotch
army, under the Duke of Hamilton and Sir Marmaduke
Langdale, defeated by Cromwell near Preston. In 1774,
the church was repaired and constituted a parish church,
and, in 1877, it was thoroughly restored ; soil, with which
the floor was covered to a depth of four or five feet, and
which had been carted in with the ostensible purpose of
preventing the damp from rising, being removed. The
font is a modern copy of one at St. Edward's, Cambridge.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 14?
Adjoining the church is Bablake Old School, founded and
endowed in 1560, by Thomas Wheatley, who was Mayor of
the city in 1556. It is an interesting half-timbered
structure, consisting of a basement and an upper floor,
with cloisteral corridors to each floor. The lower room
contains an elaborately carved Jacobean mantelpiece of the
year 1620, removed here from an old house formerly
standing in Little Park Street. From the adjoining hall,
a fine open staircase leads to the upper floor. It is said
that the foundation is due to a singular circumstance.
Mr. Wheatley sent an agent to Spain to buy some steel
gads. The purchase was effected at an open fair, but when
the barrels arrived in England, it was found that they
contained cochineal and ingots of silver. Mr. Wheatley
kept them by him for some time, awaiting inquiry
regarding them, but none was ever made, and they were
at length sold, and the proceeds, together with considerable
gifts from himself, devoted to charitable uses. The school
IS now removed to new buildings on the Coundon Road^
west of the city.
The north side of the quadrangle is occupied by the
Hospital or Almshouse founded by Thomas Bond in 1506, " for
ten poore men, so long as the world shall endure, with a
woman to look to them." The rents of the estate
having, however, increased, the number of almsmen is now
sixty-two, twenty of whom are inmates with rooms.
Thomas Bond was a draper, and became Mayor of the city
in 1497, dj4ng in the year in which he founded this
charity. The building is a half-timbered structure, with a
picturesque front 118ft. long, very much in the same style
as Ford's Hospital. The barge boards of the gables, and the
headings of the windows, are elaborately carved. At the
east end is the Day Room or Common Hall of the inmates,
which contains a couple of oak settles with sloping backs.
In the centre, approached by upper and lower corridors,
are the rooms of the inmates. At the west end is the
Committee Room of the Trustees, which contains six finely
carved chairs in the Renaissance style, and a half length
panel portrait of the founder. The building has been
restored and extended in recent years. In the garden at
the west end are traces of the old city wall.
Proceeding along Smithford St/ret, we come to the
Barracks, built, in 1793, on the site of the Old Black Bull
Inn, where Henry VII. was entertained by the Mayor after
the battle of Bosworth Field, and where Mary, Queen of
Scots, was detained for several months in 1569. In 1487^
150 shakespeahe's land.
Thomas Harrington, of Oxford, was beheaded on the
conduit opposite for having styled himself the son of the
Duke of Clarence. Near the Barracks is the Old Theatre
Koyal, built, in 1818, by Sir Skears Rew. It was recon-
structed about 1858, and is now a Music Hall, termed the
Empire Theatre.
At the corner of Hertford Street is the King's Head
Hotel, rebuilt and enlarged in 1879, which contains,
in the north-east angle of the upper story, the figure of
" Peeping Tom," the inquisitive tailor. This is not the
original position of the image, as it was set up in the year
1678 in the house of Alderman Owen, at the end of Grey
Friars Lane, from whence it was subsequently removed to
its present site. The storj- of Peeping Tom is an entirely
unauthorised interpolation made in the legend of Godiva
in the reign of Charles II. The figure itself is that of a
man in armour, wearing broad toed sollerets and a bascinet
of the date of Henry VII. It is probably a figure of St.
George, taken from some religious house at the time of the
Dissolution. The arms have been cut off at the elbows,
probably to fit it to the position it was placed in, and the
back has been chipped away by rapacious visitors. In
1802, Lord Nelson and Sir William and Lady Hamilton put
up at this inn, and were welcomed by the Mayor and
Corporation. Next to the King's Head Hotel, in Hertford
Street, is the Corn Exchange, a building in the Italian style,
opened in 1856, and containing a fine hall, 110ft. by 50ft.,
with an orchestra at the end. At the opposite corner is
the Queen's Hotel, erected in 1879.
Passing into Little Park Street, the house No. 7, on the
right, now used as an Oddfellows' Hall, is a good specimen
of the residence of a provincial banker of the Georgian
€ra. It contains some well preserved panelling and stair-
case balusters, and an ornamental mantelpiece. A half-
timbered house. No. 88, on the left, Tvith an overhanging
upper storj', was formerly a charity school, founded in
1733 by bequests from a maiden lady named Katherine
Bayley, and amalgamated, in 1888, with Bablake School.
Banner House, No. 28, on the opposite side, contains a
considerable amount of good carving of the Jacobean
period. No. 48, now divided into small tenements, has a
very fine Renaissance door hood, and is memorable as
being the school kept by the Misses Franklin, at which
" George Eliot" was a resident pupil from 1832 to 1835.
Nearly opposite to " George Eliot's " school is a half-
timbered house, formerly the White Rose Inn, said
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 151
traditionally to have been the headquarters of the Yorkist
party in the city. At the end of the street are some
remains of the Old City Wall, and the gardens close
by, termed " Park Hollows," were the scene of several
martyrdoms. In 1.510, Joan Ward was burnt for heresy,
in 1619, Kobert Sikeby for denying the real presence, and
in 155.5, Lawrence Sanders and Cornelius Bongey, of
Coventry, and Kobert Glover, of Maucetter, for heresy.
In 1757, three soldiers belonging to General Stewart's
regiment were shot here for desertion.
Passing along Sf. John's Street and Much Park Street,
we come to the remains of the White Friars Monastery, now
used as a Workhouse. The Carmelites or White Friars
were introduced into Coventry, in 1342, by two priests,
named William de Engleton and Nicholas Sproton, who
gave them land on which Sir John I'oultney, who had
been four times Lord Mayor of London, built them a house,
which was completed in 1348. At the time of the Dissolu-
tion, it was granted to Sir Ralph Sadler, who sold it to
John Hales, who made it his residence, and, in 1565,
entertained Queen Elizabeth here. It remained in this
family until 1722, when it w^as sold, and passed through
various hands, until, in 1801, it was purchased by the
Directors of the poor of Coventry, and converted into a
Workhouse. The buildings were arranged on the four
sides of a cloistered area. The greater part of the north
and south wings, and the whole of the west, except the
gateway, have been destroyed. The east wing of the
Cloisters, 160ft. long, is now used as a dining hall for
the inmates ; parallel with this is an ancient groined
chamber now used as the chapel. On the right is a
fragment of the Chapter- House, the hinge places of the
entrance gate being still visible. Beyond this is
another room with groined roof, now used as a bath
room. The Dormitory of the monks, reached by a
flight of stone stairs, is still usetl for the same purpose.
Overhead, the roof is supported by massive beams,
and, on the east side, the windows are splayed on one
side, probably to admit the early morning sun. On the same
side is an old fireplace, with a depressed arch, inserted by
John Hales temp. Henry VIII. The Church, which has
entirely disappeared, was at the north end, and a small
staircase led down to it. In the centre of the western side
is an 07iel, constructed by John Hales, and termed Queen
Elizabeth's window, from its being, according to tradition,
the spot on which the Mayor is said to have made th&
152 shakespeake's land,
following address to the Queen, which is evidently a
travesty of the genuine speech, and probably the fabrica-
tion of some quizzical cavalier at a later date : —
We men of Coventree
Are very glad to eee
Your gracious Majestie
Good Lord, how fair ye bee !
To which her Majesty is said to have sarcastically retorted —
Our gracious Majestie
Is very glad to see
Ye meu of Coventree
Good lack, what fools ye bee !
Externally, the buttresses are set at an angle for the
purpose of admitting light to the lower windows. On
the south side is a fine doorway with quatrefoil ornaments
(now filled in with a window), which led from the Cloister
to the Prior's Lodgings. The shield of John Hales appears
on the wall on the south side of this building. Parallel
with the Cloisters, and communicating with them, is the
present Chapel, occupying one of the secondary chambers ;
the vaulting is plain, showing that it is one of the
earliest parts of the fabric. The Cloister gate, at the
south-west angle of the Cloisters, is groined, but is much
mutilated. Outside, three niches are just traceable.
Proceeding along the London Road, we come to the
Cemetery, occupying an attractive site, skilfully and
tastefully laid out, in 1846-7, by the late Sir Joseph Paxton
(1803-1866), who, for some years, represented the city in
Parliament, and to whom a commemorative cenotaph has
been erected near the entrance. The grounds contain some
tine specimens of the Welliugtonia Cedra, Deodara, and
other conifers, and include the usual chapels, and a
number of monuments. On the west side, near the
entrance, a slab headstone commemorates William Womb-
well, killed by an elephant on which he was attending in
connection with Wombwell's Menagerie, at Coventry Fair,
in June, 1849; and his cousin, Ellen Blight, the "Lion
Queen," killed by a tiger in the same menagerie, at
Chatham, in January, 1850, and buried in the same grave.
On the east side of the Cemetery, approached by a fine
avenue of elms, is The Charterhouse, the residence of W. F.
Wyley, Esq. The Carthusians appear to have settled at
Coventrj' in the reign of Edward III., and the first stone
of the church on this site was laid by Richard II., in 1386.
At the Dissolution, the site was granted to Richard
Andrews and Leonard Chamberlayn, and subsequently
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. loS"
passed through a number of hands until, in 1838, it became
the property of a family named Grant, and subsequently
passed into the possession of the family of the present pro-
prietor, A large part of the wall which formerly enclosed
the buildings of the Monastery is stillstanding. The house,
which is principally formed out of the Prior's Lodgings,
contains a considerable amount of old oak panelling and
carved beams ; the ancient oak staircase, which formerly
led to the upper floor, is also preserved. A room on the
upper floor contains the vmder portion of a large fresco of
the Crucifixion, exhibiting the lower part of the figure of
the Saviour, commencing at the knees. The limbs are
sprinkled with fleurs de lis. On each side, angels receive
the blood as it spurts from the nailed feet, the figure on the
left being, however, faint and imperfect. On the right are
two soldiers with the label " ecce filius dei erat." Above
are the arms of the Lincoln family, and beneath is the
following inscription — " Fuit domus haec completa laus sit
xpo assueta sic faventi homini ' ior solandi nam
8uda .... Thomas Lambard pro amanet post ponens
fallacies post quem lict In another room is the
accompanying maxim of the Tudor period, bordered with
flowers and ornamentation — " A ma oughte to be the same
to his frede as he wold be to hym selfe. Love and feare
God."
Returning to the town by Much Park Street a fine half-
timbered house, formerly the Old Green Dragon Inn, now a
Brewery, will be noticed on the left. Further along, in
front of No. 131, the Knaves Post was formerly placed.
At the top of the street, we turn to the left along £arl
Street, and arrive, on the left, at the Old Star Inn, at which
the Duke of Monmouth lodged when he visited the City in
September 1682. We then proceed onwards until we reach
a point nearly opposite to St. Mari/ Street, where we come
to an archway on the left, leading into Palace Yard, and
find ourselves in a quadrangle, enclosed by half-timbered
buildings, forming the inner court of an ancient house,
celebrated in the annals of Coventry. It was the residence
of the Hopkins familj'', whose coat of arms may still be seen
on a leaden spout on the east side. The house itself, which
was of a stately character, and sumptuously fitted, is now
degraded into a carpenter's shop, and has been gradually
dismantled. Externally, some fine lead work, and
1 " This house has been completed, tlie accustomed praise be to Christ,
thus helpful to man." The remainder is too doubtful, from its indistinct
and imperfect character, to permit of a translation.
154 SHAKESPEAKE S LAND.
internally, the panelled plaster ceiling of the banquetting
hall, and a line stone chimney-piece, with a few other
relics, still remain to attest its former grandeur. The
Princess Elizabeth, daughter of James I., was removed here
from Combe Abbey, and entertained for a night on the
discovery of the Gunpowder Plot in 1605. In 1687,
James 11. held a full court here, and, in 1688, the Princess
Anne (afterwards Queen) was a guest, followed, in 1690, by
Prince George of Denmark.
Turning eastwards, we retrace our way through Earl
Street, and come to Jordan Well, so named from Jordan
de Shepey, Mayor of Coventry in 1346, who sunk a well
here. Further on. Dove?- Bridge, which spans the River
Sherbourne, formefly sustained' the Chapel of St. George,
demolished in 1821, on the west wall of which hung the
blade bone of the Dun Cow, said to have been killed by
Guy, Earl of Warwick.^ One of the city gates also stood
here.
At the end of Far Gosford Street is Gosford Green, a
triangular plot of greensward, on which the lists were
erected, in September, 1397, for the intended trial by
combat between the Duke of Hereford, afterwards Henry
IV., and the Duke of Norfolk. The cause of the quarrel
arose through Norfolk being accused by Hereford of having
spoken privately to him in dishonour of the King (Richard
II.). Norfolk, by way of rebuttal, challenged Hereford to
a duel, and the King appointed the issue to be decided on
this spot. Hereford passed the night previous at Baginton
■Castle, while Norfolk stayed at Caludon Castle, both in the
neighbourhood of Coventry. On the day appointed, the
two Dukes, with their attendants, entered the lists, and
just as they were about to commence the fray, the King
stopped the proceedings and banished Hereford for ten
years, and Norfolk for life. The King, on this occasion,
pitched his tent on Mount Pleasant, an eminence which
lies immediately to the eastward, and from which a good
view of the city is obtainable. The manuscript annals of
the city record that Earl Rivers and his son, who were
captured by the Earl of Warwick's party after the battle
1 On the removal of this building, the bone, which apparently belongs
to a whale, was taken to Dunsmore Heath and used as a sign for a public-
house. There it remained until about 1S3S, when the opening of the
Birmingham railway diverted the traffic from the Holyhead Road, and it
then came into the possession of Mr. M. H. Bloxam, the eminent anti-
quarian, who, a short time before his death, presented it to Mr. W. G.
Fretton, F.S.A., and this gentleman stiU retains it.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 155
of Edgecot, July 26th, 1469, were beheaded on Gosford
Green by the insurgents, though, according to another
account, they were executed at Northampton.
In Cheylesmm-e Walk, to the east of the "Warwick Road,
formerly stood the Manor House, the property of Edward,
the Black Prince, at which he frequently stayed ; all that
remains of it is a chimney shaft, embodied in a modern
house, and a few fragments of wall. At the end of
Cheylesmore Lane four courses of the old Cheylesmore Gate
still remain, with the groove for the half portcullis on
one side.
Coventry is eminently a commercial centre, its principal
manufactures being ribbons, watches, and cycles. This
latter industry, which took its rise here in 1867, has now
attained enormous proportions, something like thirty
firms, many of them with immense establishments employ-
ing from 600 to 800 hands each, being engaged in it.
Most of these firms are courteous enough to admit visitors
to view the processes of manufacture, by which the raw
material is cut and shaped into the constituent parts of the
machine, and then fitted together, enamelled, painted, and
varnished, the machines themselves being of various forms
and constituting, altogether a most interesting sight.
Historic Notes on Coventry.
The early history of Coventry is inseparably associated
with the Monastic system, as four of the great Religious
Orders were represented by extensive establishments here.
The Benedictines, the Franciscans, and the Carmelites
within the city, and the Carthusians outside one of its gates.
The name of the town in Domesday Book is Coventrev,
which appears to be a compound of the Latin conventus
with the Gaelic treahh^ a farmed village. According to the
earliest records relating to the city, a convent was founded
here at some unnamed period, probably about the end of
the 7th century, by a virgin named St. Osburg. This
convent was, in the year 1016, destroyed by an invading
army, under King Cnut, and Edric the traitor, and there
is no further record until the year 1043, when we
are told that Leofric, Earl of Mercia, founded a goodly
Monastery of Benedictines here, which he richly en-
1 The Celtic language of Warwickshire appears from numerous tokens
to hare been of the Gaelic family, and it was probably spoken by bond-
slaves as late as the 12th century.
156 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
dowed. His Countess, Godiva, or Godeva, who was
possessed of large means in her own right, supple-
mented her husband's gifts with munificent benefactions.
Leofric died in 1057, and was buried in one of the
porches of the Abbey Church ; his wife survived him
many years, and the date of her death is not recorded. In
connection with Godiva a well-known legend is told, that
she entreated her husband to free the place from the
oppression of a heavy toll to which it was subject, and
being refused, except upon condition that she would ride
naked before all the people through the market of the
town, she accepted the stipulation, and letting down her
tresses, which covered the whole of her body like a veil, so
that nothing but her legs could be seen, performed the
deed unnoticed. According to a more modern version, the
people being forewarned, all remained within doors, out
of respect for the Countess, and she, therefore, rode
unobserved, except by one inquisitive tailor, named
Peeping Tom, whose eyes, as a penalty for his curiosity,
either dropped out of his head, or Avere smitten with
blindness. It is distasteful to have to realise that the
legend will scarcely bear the test of criticism. The part
relating to " Peeping Tom " is an undoubted figment of no
greater antiquity than tlie reign of Charles II., when the
" Godiva Procession " appears to have been inaugurated.
The remainder of the story is not earlier than the reign of
Xing John, some 150 years later than the date of the
supposed occurrence, and it is then related by Roger de
Wendover, a chronicler whose general reliability is
questionable. William of Malmesbury, Florence of Wor-
cester, and Ingulphus, who lived earlier, and whose
trustworthiness is greater, all speak in praise of Leofric
and Godiva, but make no mention of the legend. The
Warwickshire survey contained in Domesday Book shows
that nearly thirty years after Leofric's death, when the
population of the district had in all probability augmented,
owing to the presence of the Monastery he had founded,
the place was a mere agricultm'al settlement, consisting of
seven bondsmen, fifty villeins or servile tenants, and
twelve bordarii or farm labourers, representing, with
women and children, a population of something like 350
souls. All the adult males, and probably most of the
female inhabitants, must liave been engaged in agriculture
during the day, leaving only the children at home, while
the houses were mere hovels, without any windows. In
1218, Henry III. granted a charter for a yearly fair, to last
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 157
eight days.^ In 1234, the Franciscans, or Grey Friars,
established themselves in Coventry, followed, in 1343, by
the Carmelites, or White Friars, and, in 1381, the
Carthusians settled near the south-east gate of the
city. In 1344, a Munieixaal Corporation was consti-
tuted by letters patent from Edward III. In 1355,
the fortifications were commenced. In 1404, Henry
IV. held a Parliament in the great chamber of the Priory,
at which no lawyer was permitted to be present, and lience
styled Parliamentum Indoctorum or Parliament of tlie un-
learned. In 1459, another Parliament was held at the Priory
by Henry VI., which, on account of the number of attainders
passed against the Yorkists, was termed Parliamentum
Diabolicum. In 1470, the gates of the city were closed
against Edward IV. by the citizens, for which the Xing
afterwards seized their liberties and franchises, which they
only regained by payment of a fine of 500 marks. In 1485,
Henry VII. lodged at the house of the Mayor after his
victory over Eichard III. at Bosworth Field. The Dissolu-
tion seriously affected the trade of the city, and brought it
to a verv low ebb, the number of inhabitants declining,
it is said, from 15,000 to 3,000. In 1669, Mary, Queen of
Scots, was confined as a prisoner at the Bull Inn, and
was subsequently removed to the Mayoress's Parlour. In
August, 1642, the citizens refused to allow the forces of
Charles I. to enter Coventry, and, after a vain attempt to
seize the city, the King was forced to retire to Stoneleigh.
Throughout the Civil War, Coventry continued to be a
Puritan stronghold, to which parties of Royalist prisoners
were frequently sent, much to their discontent, the austere
discipline to which they were subjected giving rise to the
proverbial expression of " sending a person to Coventry,"
as equivalent to placing him under a social ban. In 1648,
several hundred Scotch prisoners^ from the army of the
Duke of Hamilton, were confined in various public
buildings. In 1662, the city walls were demolished, by
1 It was in connexion with this fair that the famous Godiva procession
was instituted in 167" ; the last of these pageants took place on tlie 2nd
August, 1892, when it possessed very much the character of an historical
and trade procession, ancient and modern industries being as far as
possible represented, and Godiva being attired in a short polonaise of
white satin, edged witli swansdown, and flesh coloured tights on the lower
limbs, a pair of white kid gloves, a plume, and a wig of golden hair.
2 Under date of August 24th, 164S, Dugdale says "The Scotts prisoners
miserably used. They were for hunger, some of them exposed to eate
cabage leaves in Ridgley, carrot tops in Coleshill. They sold vituals wch.
was ijrought in for them from ye countrey,"
158 shakesprark's land.
order of Charles II., in retaliation for the repulse of his
father by the citizens, and the vicars of St. Michael's and
Trinity were ejected. In 1685, nearly 3,000 inhabitants
died from unwholesome food, the result of a bad season.
The manufacture of ribbons was commenced early in the
16th century, weaving about 1696, and watchmaking about
1710. The subsequent public history of Coventry is of a
less eventful character. In 1860, the commercial treaty
with France produced disastrovis results on the ribbon
trade of the city, and great distress prevailed. A National
Fund of £40,000 was raised for the relief of the sufferers,
and many families emigrated. In 1876, the manufacture
of cycles began to assume the proportions of a leading
industry. In former times, the city was frequently
honoured with the presence of royalty, partly on account
of its importance, and partly owing to the celebrity of its
Pageants and Religious mysteries, which drew immense
multitudes to see them. Edward II. was here in 1309 and
1326, Eichard II. in 1381 and 1397, Henry IV. in 1404,
Henry VI. in 1436, 1450, 1451, 1459, and 1469, Edward
IV. in 1465, Prince Edward (his son) in 1474 and 1477,
Ricliard III. in 1483, Henry VII. in 1485, 1486, 1492, and
1499, Prince Arthur in 1497, Henry VIII. and his
Queen in 1510, Princess (afterwards Queen) Mary in 1525,
Queen Elizabeth in 1565. Princess Elizabeth (daughter of
James I.) in 1603 and 1605. Prince Henry in 1611, James I.
in 1616, the Duke of Monmouth in 1682, James II. in 1687,
Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne in 1688, and William
III. and Prince George of Denmark in 1690. All of these
royal personages were sumptuously entertained.
ROUTE 8 — SNITTEEFIELD TO ALCESTER Via
BE.\RLEY AND ASTON CANTLOW.
Snitterfield, eight and a quarter miles from Leamington,
and four from Stratford, stands on a high table-land, the sill
of the door of the church being said to be level with the top
of St. Mary's tower at Warwick. The Churcli consists of an
embattled tower with pinnacles, nave, aisles and chancel.
The body of the church, the aisles and chancel are
Decorated, the tower and clerestory Perpendicular. The
aisles open out of the nave by four bays ; on the north the
piers are octagonal, on the south they are composed of
■clustered shafts. The fine east unndoio is of five lights.
A fresco or painting of the patron Saint, St. James, fills the
window at the west end of the south aisle. At the east end
of this aisle is an aumbry, the iron stanchions of the door
of which still remain ; on the south side is a double piscina
with trefoiled heads under an arch with a quatrefoil in
the tympanum. The ancient carved loood-iuork in the
■chancel is very curious and interesting. On the north side
is a carved standard entirely covered with elaborate panel
work, with a large carved finial. At one end of it, under a
canopy, is a figure with long hair and loose drapery,
apparently carrying three loaves, and probably representing
St. John ; on the other side is the figure of an angel. In a
spandril are two mermaids supporting a hand holding an
entwined knot. On the south side, the standard is of
similar construction, the lower part carved with panel
work, and the upper containing within a species of
quatrefoil compartment, a shield quartering the arms of
France and England, supported by a greyhound and a
dragon, and surmounted by the bowed crown introduced in
the reign of Henry VI. At one end of it, on a kind of
baluster of Renaissance design, is the carved figure of a
mitred bishop, in his alb, dalmatic and cope. Near this
under a canopy is the full length nude figure of a boy with
wings. In some of the buttresses, which divide the panels,
are small figures of angels clad in albs with caps on their
heads of the time of Henry VII. The heads of the com-
partments, five in number, are filled with panel work.
160 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
The remaining standards are modem imitations. The altai-
rails, ornamented with carved shallow scroll work in the
upper part, are of the 17th century. The pulpit, which is
hexagonal is of the latter part of the 17th century. The
organ chamber to the north of the chancel was erected in
1882, the entrance to it being part of the original building,
subsequently blocked up. At the west end, standing on an
octagonal shaft, is a plain 14th century octagonaiy^Ti^ with
a carved head at each angle, the figures of a bishop in his
mitre, and a man in a caputium or hood being noticeable.
In the rest?'}/, removed from the floor of the nave, is a slab
to the memory of Richard Jaf/o, the poet, who was for 20-
years vicar of this parish, and died May 8th, 1781, aged 69.
In the churchyard is a fine double yew tree, and three
remarkably fine lime trees, believed to be the biggest in
the country, the largest of them measuring 17ft. 9in. in
girth. The Vicarage, which is a picturesque old gabled
building, has a group of three silver birch trees on the
lawn, planted by the poet Jago"s daughters, and termed
" the three ladies." Shakespeare's grandfather occupied
land in the parish somewhere north of the Warwick Road,
the exact position of which cannot now be defined, and
Henry Shakespeare, his vmcle, live in a cottage, the site of
which is now^ occupied by a good house near the church, at
the corner of the roads, which in one direction lead past
Snitterfield Park to the Warwick Road, and in the other
to Luscombe. Burman's Field is close behind the house, and
at the extremity of this field a knoll covered with trees is
known as Bed Hill, both these enclosures being mentioned
in a tine levied on Henry Shakespeare in the year 1596, for
allowing his ditches to fall out of repair. In the house
just mentioned, an oak cupboard was discovered in August,
1891, bearing inscriptions formed by flat-headed copper
nails, purporting that it was constructed by the Poet.
From the style of the lettering there can however be little
doubt that it is a w^ork of the last century, probably
manufactured at the time of the Strntford Jubilee in 1769.
Below the vicarage is a pool which was formerly a piece of
ornamental water belonging to old Snitterfield Hall, which
was demolished about 1820. The hall stood on the left
beyond the church, the wall of the kitchen garden being
still standing. In the park is an avenue of old elm trees,
which formerly led to the hall, and two other trees of huge
dimensions, an oak, 40ft. lOin. in girth at the base, and
24ft. Gin. at a height of 6ft., and an ash 35ft. 6in. at the
base, and 9ft. 4in. at a height of 6ft. There is a profusion
SHAKESPEARE'S T,AND. 161
of handsome timber throughout the village, and the view
from the brow of the hill on the Stratford Road is exten-
sive and beautiful, taking in the Shuckburgh and Edge-
hills on the left, and the Cotswold and Meon Hill on the
right. A reservoir recently constructed near the village
supplies Stratford-on-Avon with water.
The road from hence to Bearley (two and a half miles)
passes first through Snitlei-Jield Bushes, a noted fox covert,
where it is said some of the Gunpowder Conspirators were
arrested in their flight, and then through Bearley Bushes,
In the spring both these woods abound in lovely wild
flowers, being carpeted with the primrose, the oxslip, the
wild daffodil, and the violet. The church of Bearley,
rebuilt in 1875, contains nothing of interest. Half a mile
further, near Bearley Cross, in September, 1651, Charles II.
narrowly escaped capture by a troop of horse of Cromwell's
forces while escaping in disguise with Jane Lane from the
direction of Wootton Wawen. Hence by Bearley Station
(half a mile) we proceed to Aston Cantlow (two and a halt
miles), passing on the way at a little distance to the right,
Sillesbourne, a very picturesque half-timbered house. The
church of Aston Cantlow ^ which stands at the south-west
end of the village is a very interesting structure, principally
of the latter part of the 13th century, consisting of
chancel, nave, north aisle and chapel, south porch, and an
embattled western tower with pinnacles. Over the north
door of the nave is a rude representation in stone of the
Virgin in bed with the infant Jesus ; St. Joseph being
represented at the foot of the bed. The roof, which
appears to be original, is of the cradled kind, each rafter
trussed with curved braces. At the west end of the no7-th
aisle is a newel staircase, evidently intended to com-
municate with a parvise, which does not appear to have
been constructed. The mullions of the east ivindow, which
is of three lights, run straight up to the arch. In the
chancel is a triple arched sedilia with hood-moulding
terminating in corbel heads. It is joined to the piscina,
which has a credence table above. The font, which is of
the 15th century, is octagonal on a low shaft. Each face
is ornamented with a sunk panel containing a quatrefoil
in a circle with a rose in the centre, and the basin
terminates in four corbel heads. At the east end of the
1 The name was anciently Estone Cantilnpe, the first part of it having
reference to its eastern position probably as regards Alcester, and the
second being derived from the family of Cantelupe who owned the manor
from 1205 to 1272.
G
162 Shakespeare's land.
north aisle, which was formerly the Chantry Chapel of the
Guild of the Blessed Virgin are two old open pews, the
elbows of which terminate in good carved poppy heads.
An upright against the wall at the end of one of these pews
evidently anciently formed part of the screen of the chapel,
as it bears in old English characters the words " -',■ Thy dead
shall live." ^ In this chapel is an ancient prie dieu and two
high old wooden candelabra, each for five candles, and
having floreated pedestals. These latter evidently in
ancient times did duty as " elevation candlesticks," which
were placed on the lower steps of the altar, and lighted on
high festivals at the eleA'ation of the host. In the nave is
an ancient Litany stool, carved in front with the
Lancastrian feather surmounted by panel work. The
pulpit is hexagonal, the panels being plain with foliated
heads. In the vestry are two old chests and an old box.
Most of the woodwork of the church is of the loth century.
In the churchyard is a cross, restored in 1850, in memory
of Henry Hill, M.A., Vicar of the parish. On the north
side of the church adjoining the river are traces of an old
Castle surrounded by a moat, which fills when the river is
high.
From hence the road leads to Alcester (four miles),
through Great Alne (one mile), and Kinwarton (two and a half
miles). Alcester is a small market town prettily situated
in a wooded vale at the junction of the rivers Alne and
Avon. It lies on the ailcient Ickneld Street road, and this,
taken in conjunction with the termination cester in the
name, seems to indicate that it was a Roman station, a
conclusion which is strengthened by the fact that Roman
coins and other remains have frequently been found here.
A priory for Benedictines was founded here by Ralph
Boteler, of Oversley, on a spot to the north of the town
now called the Priory close, bounded on the north and east
by the river Alne, and on the south and west by a moat.
Every trace of the building has vanished though vestiges
of the moat may still be traced. The Church, situated in
the centre of the town, was wnth the exception of the
tower rebuilt between the years 1727-34. The toiver is of
three stages in the Decorated style of the 14th century,
the rest of the building is debased Gothic. In the interior
the roof is supported by six Doric columns on each side ;
the chancel is nothing more than a recess for the altar.
The 07-f/an chamber on the north side of the chancel is
1 Isaiah xsvi., 19.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 163
partitioned off by a screen of richly carved work of the
Tudor period, which originally came from Warwick
Castle. Under the tower is a white marble statue, the work
of Count Gleichen, representing Sir Hamilton Seymour
(died February 2nd, 1880) in a sitting position. Here also
hangs a brass chandelier with the following inscription : —
" The gift of ye Rt ReyJ- Father in God, Dr. John Hough,
Ld. Bp- of Worcester, 1733." Fixed against the wall is a
wooden triptych, the doors of which when open exhibit on
the inside rude representations of broken-down trades-
people, with their trade emblems, such as the apron, the
hatchet, the cleaver, the saw, and the square. On the
centre panel is the following inscription in black letter: —
" Behold within this table are the names with the memorial
acts of those who have most liberally extended their
bountie to help Tradesmen and releave poore and aged
people dwelling within the Towne and parish of Alcester."
This is followed by some offertory texts and the date, 1683.
At the west end of the north aisle is a high tomb with
recumbent effigies of Sir Foulke Grevill and his wife
Lady Elizabeth, and an inscription running round the
verge. Sir Foulke died November 10th, 15.59, and his wife
November 9th, 1560. Both figures are painted and gilt,
and appear to be portraits. The husband is represented
bare-headed in full armour. The wife wears a close coif,
and a gown open in front with a short ruff round the neck.
Hanging down by a chain in front is a pomander box with
a double rose. On the left side at the skirt is a small lap-
dog. The south side of the tomb is divided into three
compartments by twisted pilasters. The first of these on
the west contains three small male figures, one in armour,
and the other two in long red side gowns in the attitude of
prayer. The centre encloses a shield with a motto. The
next compartment has three small male figures in long
gowns, and an infant in swathing bands. On the north
side of the tomb are eight small figures with shields
between. The east and west sides contain armorial
shields. At the east end of the south aisle is a cenotaph to
Francis, second Marquis of Hertford (died 1822), which
comprises a fine life-size figure by Sir Francis Chantrey,
representing the Marquis reclining on a couch, dressed in
a loose robe, and holding a book in his left hand. In the
oestry is a huge ancient lock apparently of the 14th or 1.5th
centiiry, with a key nine inches long, and at the Rectory
is the ivory head of a crozier exquisitely carved on one side
with the Crucifixion, and on the other with a figure of the
164 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Virgin bruising the serpent's head. It was discovered some
years ago in the Rectory garden. The Town Hall, which
stands to the north of the church, has a good open
timbered roof, the upper story being now used as a school.
The town contains a number of picturesque half-timbered
houses. At the Court Leet of Alcester, on the 25th October,
1706, Edward Hitchin and Nathan Haynes, the Bread-
weighers and Ale-tasters of the Manor made the following
philosophic presentment :— " We hav performd oner olis
to ye utmost of ouer Kuong (knowing), & found ye bred
<& buter sofishente waitt, & the Ale sum good & sum in
Diferent & ye good we Drank & ye other we Gav away."
ROUTE 9.— SXITTERFIELD TO STRATFORD-OX-AVON
Via WILMCOTE AND BISHOPTOX.
Soon after quitting Snitterfield, the reservoir of tlie
Strattord-on-Avon waterworks may be observed on the left.
The route lies through a charmingly wooded lane, and
at two miles from the village on the right is Gospel Oak
Hill, a picturesquely wooded knoll on which formerly
stood a Gospel Oak,^ marking the junction of four parishes.
Large walnut trees may be frequently observed about this
district, while in the neighbouring hamlets of Wilmcote,
Bearley and Aston Cantlow, the perry pear-tree may be
noticed growing in the hedges. Descending the hill, a turn
to the right, at the "Dun Cow" public-house, and then
to the left past Wilmcote Station, brings us to the lime-
stone quarries of Wilmcote, in which the fine Plesiosaunis
now in the Museum at Warwick was discovered. At that
time a great liassic egtuary existed here, in which the ill-
starred monster whift basking placidly in the sun probably
came to an untimely end, either through being smothered
by a sudden exhalation of mephitic gas, or by being
covered up by an unexpected rush of mud down the
neighbouring river.
A little more than a quarter of a mile from the station, on
the right hand side, is the house of Shakespeare's mother,
Mary Arden, standing a little way back from the road
with an intervening garden. It is a half-timbered
building of two stories, with dormer windows, and a
gable to the south, and contains on the ground floor three
rooms with a pantry and cellar, with six bedrooms above.
The interior has been modernised, the sole evidence of
antiquity being the bevelled edges of the beams. The
dovecote at the side, and the farm buildings at the back
are ancient and picturesque.'- Proceeding into the village,
1 See note, page 20.
2 Wilmcote or Wincot was the scene of Christopher Sly's debauch in tlie
Taridng of the Shrew. Tlie ale of tlie place seems to hare been famous in
166 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
we take a lane to the left, which leads up to Bisliopton (one
mile), a hamlet containing a mineral spring in a rustic
pump-room, now fallen into disuse and decay. From hence
the road conducts us to Stratford in two miles, Clopton
House being visible about half a mile on the left, with the
Welcombe Obelisk on the height above.
Shakespeare's day, and for a long time aftenvards judged by the following
lines by Sir Aston Cockain, published in 1658 : —
To Mr. Clement Fisher, o/Wincott:
Shak-e.tpcare your Wincot Ale hath much renoNvn'd
That fox'd a Beggar, so (by chance was found
Sleeping), that there needed not many a word
To make him to believe he was a Lord :
But you affirm (and in it seem most eager),
'Twill make a Lord as drunk as any Beggar,
Bid Norton brew such Ale as Slutkespeare fancies,
Did put Kit Sly into such Lordly trances ;
And let us meet there (for a fit of Gladness),
And drink ourselves meiTy in sober Sadness.
ROUTE 10 -STRATFORD-ON-AVON TO COUGHTON Via
BINTON, BIDFORD, WIXFORD, ARROW, AND
ALCESTER.
The road from Stratford to Binton (seven miles) passes
through picturesque rural scenery with charming vistas on
each side. At one and a half mile we come to Bardon Hill,
from the top of which comprehensive views of Stratford
and Shottery unfold themselves. Stratford Church, the
Memorial Buildings, and the AVelcombe Obelisk being
prominently visible. The river winds along at a little
distance on the left, displaying for a brief space a gleaming
strip of water, after which its course is marked by lines of
tufted willows. Meon Hill and the Broadway form notice-
able objects in the distance. The roadway from hence is
lined with line hawthorns, and crab and perry pear trees
frequently peep out of the hedgerows. A mile beyond this,
lying close to the river, at distance of about a mile on the
left is Luddington, which anciently contained a church,
long destroyed, at which it has been superficially con-
jectured that Shakespeare was married. A new church
was constructed in 1872. At three and a half miles we
pass, at a little distance up a valley on the right, Binton
Church, relniilt in the Early English style in 1875. In
the nave are three interesting old stone cofHn lids of
the 13th and 14th centuries, for which low arches have
been constructed. The old church chest, 8ft. long and
heavily banded, is cut out of a single piece of oak.
Proceeding onwards we next arrive at Binton Bridges,
built about 1810, from whence Bidford may be reached by
tyo roads, one running south and the other north of the
liver.
Taking the road by the south bank we cross Binton
Bridges, two picturesque stone structures of thirteen arches,
the centre resting on an island studded with trees and
bushes growing in unchecked luxuriance. On the south side
is the " Four Alls " inn, with a quaint sign board. Half a
mile further, approached by a lane lined with hawthorns,
is the village of Welford, principally consisting of thatched
168 shakespeake's land.
cottages with porches half hidden by luxuriant creepers,
standing in rustic gardens abounding in flowers or in small
orchards rich with tempting fruit. The church is chiefly
remarkable for its Norman nave arcades. At the principal
entrance to the churchyard is a very picturesque lich gate
of oak framing with tiled roof, which is probd!bly of the
latter half of the 16th century. The unique feature of the
village is, however, its old Maypole, 75ft. high, painted in
continuous " ribbons " of white, red, and blue, curling
round the shaft, time having unfortunately nearly
obliterated the colour of the blue.^ It stands in the
centre of a raised mound encircled by a hedge, and
is probably the successor of a Maypole of Shakes-
peare's time. From hence the road ascends Bunker's
Hill (five miles), from which there is a line view of the Avon
which winds picturesquely at the base, where it is crossed
by the old ruined lock of Welford. Hence the road passes
on to the pretty village of Barton (seven miles), and at
eight miles approaches Bidford, crossing the Avon, which is
here broad and shallow, by a picturesque old stone bridge
of eight arches, probably originally built in the 15th
centurj'. About 1541, it was repaired with part of the
stone of Alcester Priory, which was then demolished. It
was broken down during the Civil War and again restored in
1650. Below it is a primitive old " paddle weir."
The road from Binton by the north bank at five and a
half miles passes Hillborough Manor, lying about half a
mile to the left, close to the river. It is the " Haunted
Hillborough " ^ of the epigram, unjustly attributed to
Shakespeare, the reason for its being termed haunted being
1 The ancient custom of painting the Maypole is alluded to by Shake-
speare in the Midsummer Night's Dream, act lii., scene ii., in the bitter
sarcasms which Hermia launches at Helena :
And are you gi-own so high in his esteem
Because I am so dwarfish and so low ?
How low am I, thou painted Maypole ?
2 Piping Pebworth, Dancing Marston,
Haiuited Hillborough, Hungry Grafton,
Dodging Exhall, Papist Wixford,
Beggarly Broom, and Drunken Bidford.
Pebworth and Marston are both in Gloucestershire : the latter about seven
miles from Stratford and the former about two miles further. They both
contain interesting churches. Marston used to be famous for its morris
dancing, now unfortunately extinct. The village contains an old house in
which Charles II. was harboured in his flight after the Battle of
Worcester, and where, to complete the disguise, he turned the kitchen spit.
The house has been restored, all the old features being carefully preserved
as far as possible.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 169
now undiscoverable. The house, which has lost one of its
original wings, is a picturesque stone building with gables,
charmingly clothed with ivy. It is apparently of Tudor
origin with later alterations. The interior still contains an
oak panelled room, in a corner of which is an "ascham"
or locker for bows and arrows. Peaches and grapes ripen
on the sunny south walls, and so luxuriantly do fruit trees
grow here that the plum and damson trees in the garden
require to be propped to enable them to sustain the
superabundant weight of fruit. A little below the house
the Avon pursues its placid course to Bidford, past Hill-
borough Grange and mill.
Proceeding on our road at about six and a quarter miles
from Stratford, or three-quarters of a mile before reaching
Bidford, we came on the right to a small modern red brick
barn in a field by the roadside. About 50 yards from this,
on the opposite or left-hand side of the road, an iron gate
will be observed close to which is a young crab tree which
assumes to be the representative of the ancient tree termed
Shakespeare's crab tree, underneath which tradition says
the poet slumbered away the effects of a carouse. The old
tree, which has long disappeared, stood, however, nearer
the centre of the field. The view from hence is very fine.
On the left are the Worcestershire Hills, and in the
foreground Ragley Hall may be observed, embowered in
woods, " Oversley Castle " forming a prominent object
further to the right. The descent into Bidford, which lies
in a vale, is very picturesque, the old tiled houses of the
village, many of them clothed with creepers having a
charming old world effect.
The Church is built on a slight eminence overlooking the
river, to which the churchyard slopes. The tower, which
is embattled, is of a verj' unusual kind, and it is difficult
to fix its date. The base slopes to a considerable height,
and at the north-west corner is a large projecting stair
turret, lighted by small windows, which rises above the
tower, and finishes with an embattled parapet. The
chancel is Early English, and the nave and aisles were
rebuilt in supremely ugly style in 1835. The chancel,
which is lighted on each side by three trefoil-headed
windows in recesses, contains at the west end of the south
side a mural monument, with a bust in a concave frame
surmounted by a coat-of-arms, to Dorothy Skipworth (died
1655). Close by the altar rails is a very large canopied
piscina with a trefoil head, which has been extensively
restored. On the south wall of the sacrarium is a stone
170 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
tablet to Woodchurch Clark (died 1647) "with an inscription
much defaced. The inndous of the chancel are all filled
with stained glass, two of them being by Capronnier, of
Brussels. The church plate, which is of silver gilt
repousse work, and probably of Spanish origin, is remark-
ably handsome; it was presented to the church in 1665 by
Duchess Dudley. The large church chest, which probably
dates from the 16th centu^^•, is of unusual form. It has
hea^'Ty* bands and hinges, with the customary three locks,
and in the middle of each end is a ring such as is usual in
sea chests. On the north side of the churchyard is a large
old house with a wing on the west side known as the
Falcon Inn. at which it is said Shakespeare often caroused
with boon companions. It is probably co-eval with the
Poet, and is built of stone, the gabled front containing three
stories, the principal windows of which are muUioned.
The old chimney stacks of brick are picturesque. In the
rear was a projecting gallery* now destroyed. The building
is now, unfortunately, sub-divided into tenements.
From hence we take the road to Wixford (two miles),
turning off to the right just as we reach it in order to visit
Exhall.^ possessing a small church, which was a very
picturesque and interesting structure with a 13th century
nave, until it was wantonly vulgarised by ruthless
restoration in the year 1863. The chancel contains good
inlaid brass effigies of John Walsingham and his wife, taken
from a high tomb now destroyed. The inscription runs
thus : — " Here lyeth buried the bodies of John Walsingham,
late of Exhall, in the County of Warw., Esq. ; and Elenor,
his wife, one of the daughters of Huinfrey Ashefield, of
Heythropp, in the County of Oxford, Esquier; the same
John decessed the XX Jan., 1.566, and the said Elenor
decessed the ....'' The rectory grounds are enclosed
by fine elms.
From hence we return to Wixford, the church of which
stands at the north end of a picturesque lane, which
appears to have been an ancient " covered way " or sunk
road excavated to facilitate the concealed passage of a
body of men through the country. The church, which
consists of chancel, nave, south chapel adjoining nave,
and south porch, is a small building of mixed architecture,
the north and south doorways being Xorman. There are one
or two narrow lancets of the 13th century, and the east
1 '■ Dodging Exhall " of the epigram probably so termed from its remote
position.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 171
window is of the beginning of the 14th century. At the
entrance of the chancel are the remains of the rood screen.
The chantry chapel of the 15th century, is a tasteful and
regular composition with a line Tudor arched window of
five lights at the east end, and three.fine windows of the same
character on the south. In it is the very large and hand-
some tomb of the founder and his wife, with finely engraved
effigies in brass under crocketted pedimental canopies,
enclosed and divided by slender buttresses. The following
inscription runs round the verge, every word being followed
by the family badge, a human foot: — " Hie jacent Thomas
de Cruwe armiger qui istam capellam fecit fieri, die mensis
anno domini millimo CCCC, et Juliana uxor eius qui obijt
vicesimo die mensis decembris, anno dm, millesimo CCCC
undecimo, quorum animabus propitietur deus, amen." The
husband is attired in armour, and the wife in a coif with
a veil depending to the shoulders, a close fitting gown
with a cordon at the waist, and a long mantle open in
front. Above the canopies are four shields of arms, and
the badge of the human foot is repeated several times, both
above and below the figures. Thomas de Cruwe held several
offices, amongst others that of Attorney to Margaret de
Beauchamp, and Steward to Eichard de Beauchamp. On
the west wall is a small brass with a shield bearing twelve
quarterings, and an inscription to Rise, fourth son of Rise
Grj'ffin, of Brome, who died 1597. The step to the chantry
altar remains, and on the south side is a very interesting
piscina, with semi-octagon canopy, within an ogee double
cusped arch. In the centre of the nave by the side of a
pew is another brass to Jane, wife of John Alline (died
1587), and ten children. In the churchyard is the base of
a fine old 14th century cross, with an ascent of three steps,
and a remarkably fine yew tree with branches nine yards
long. From hence we retrace our steps to the cross road
to Exhall, and turning to the right, take the road to Arrow
(two miles). Half a mile after crossing the river Arrow,
we arrive at Ragley Park, and continue to skirt it up to the
village, the views on either side being highly pleasing, the
park on the left, dotted with handsomp trees, and the river
on the right, winding for some distance through a
picturesque strip of woodland. A prominent object on the
eminence on the right is Upper Lodge or " Oversley
Castle," a gingerbread tower, constructed it is said in 1819,
to please the fancy of George IV. (then Prince Regent), who
was staying at Ragley Hall.
The church of the pretty little village of Arrow stands
172 SHAKESPEARE'S LANT.
near the river, and consists of a tower, nave and chancel,
the outer Tvalls of which are coated with rough
east. The toicer is a tasteless structure of the 18th
Centura, said to have been designed by Horace Walpole
when staying at Ragley. In the south 7vaU is a semi-
circidar headed Xorman doorway, containing a A-ery rare
and early example of a door in the Decorated style of the
lith ce'ntun-. rudely panelled with two ogee-headed
sinkings in the upper part. The remainder of the church
is principally in the Decorated style. The fabric was
restored in iS63, when the north aisle, which had been
demolished, was re-built, and a chancel aisle added. The
arches of the nave are banded with Grafton and Campden
stone -with agreeable effect. The reredos, which extends
across the east end of the chancel, is a memorial to Francis,
fifth Marquis of Hertford, and is of coloured alabaster,
finely carved. In the noi-th aisle are two sepulchral arches
transferred from the chancel, the most easterly of these
contains a stone coffin lid ornamented with a cross and
inscribed, '• Ci git Gerard de Canvill," ^ which was dis-
covered in 1863 in making the excavations for the
re-building of the aisle. Gerard de Can^-ill, or Camville,
who died in 1303. was patron of the living, and probably
re-built the cliurch. In the south wall of the chancel is a
piscina consisting of a projecting basin within an ogee-
headed fenestella or ambrie. and next to it is the pulpit of
hexagonal shape, and an interesting specimen of Jacobean
workl There is also an old Jacobean bench on the south
side of the interior of the tower. The font is a plain
cylindrical basin of stone, probably of the 14th century.
There is some good stained glass in the window on the
south side of the" chancel, which contains a representation
of Zacharias and Elizabeth, and in the second window from
the east end of the north aisle, which depicts the Three
Centurions. In the south of the chancel is a handsome
full-length recumbent effigj', in white marble, of Admiral
Sir George Francis Seymour, (died January 20th, 1870},
wearing the uniform of his rank. It was erected by his
son, Francis H. C, fifth Marquis of Hertford, and is the
work of his son-in-law. the late Prince Hohenlohe, better
known as Count Gleichen. On the south side of the nave
is a tasteful memorial tablet to Sir George Samilton
Seymour (died February 2nd, 1880), also the work of Count
Gleichen. On the south side of the altar are three brasses
1 Here lies Gerard de CanvilL
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 173
to members of the Seymour family. The carved reading
desk of very artistic workmanship was executed by the
present Marchioness of Hertford. The ancient Manor
House, which was surrounded by a moat, stood to the
south of the churchyard on ground still known as " The
Court." It was the residence of the Burdett family from
the reign of Edward II. to that of Edward IV. ' In the
reign of Henry VIII. the property passed by marriage to
the Conway family. The land to the north and west of
" The Court " is still stj'led Arrow Park.
About a quarter of a mile distant is The Mill, in the
neighbourhood of which it is said King Edward IV., while
hunting in 1477, killed a favourite white buck belonging to
Thomas Burdett, the owner of the manor, in consequence
of which Burdett, in a fit of passion, wished " the buck's
head in his belly that moved the King to kill it." He had
already incurred the King's displeasure on account of his
affection for the Duke of Clarence, and this incautious
speech was made the pretext for accusing him of high
treason, " for wishing the buck's head (horns and all) in
the King's belly." He was condemned and drawn from the
Tower of London to Tyburn and there beheaded.
Passing from hence we come to the lodge gates of Eagley
Hall, the seat of the Marquis of Hertford. In the reign of
Henry III., the m^nor came into 'the possession of the
family of Rous. In 1380, John le Rous built a stately
gatehouse of stone here, and embattled it like a castle. In
the reign of Henrj' VIII. the manor passed by marriage to
Sir John Brome, whose son in 1591 sold it to Sir John
Conway. Edward, son of the latter, was created Baron
and Viscount Conway, and in 1679 Edward, third Viscount
was created Earl of Conway. The latter died childless in
1683, and his estates then passed to his cousin, Popham
Seymour, descended from Sir Edward Seymour, brother of
Queen Jane SejTnour. Popham Seymour was killed in a
duel in 1699 by Colonel Kirk, and he was succeeded by his
brother Francis, who in 1703 was created Baron Conway.
His son and successor, also named Francis, was created
Viscount Beauchamp and Earl of Hertford in 1750, and
Marqius of Hertford in 1793. The park covers an area of
700 acres, affording pasturage for numerous herds of deer.
It is enriched with majestic trees, and an ornamental lake in
the south-east portion adds to its attractiveness. The
mansion, which was built in the Italian style about the
middle of the last century on the site of the old mansion
which was pulled down, has a tetrastyle portico on its
174 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Eastern face, which forms the principal entrance. The
Entrance Hall is a very fine apartment, 8Uft. long, 40ft.
wide, and 45ft. high, with a richly moulded ceiling. Two
grand staircases of polished oak form the ascent to the
upper floor from an adjoining hall. In the lifetime of
Richard, the fourth Marquis, who succeeded to the title in
1842, and died in 1870, the mansion and its contents were
left to go to decay while he maintained a luxurious
existence in Paris. His cousin, who succeeded him, did his
xitmost to repair the mischief created. The house contains
a choice collection of pictures, which are distributed in the
following order : —
Lord Hertford's Study. — Several fancy portraits by Ldy and Kneller :
" Horseman with dogs," Wootton.
Library. — " Frans Mercurius, Baron Van Helmont" (1618-ld99) the
Flemish alchemist,! a fine portrait by ie^y. Over the door are beautiful
festoons of carved fruit.
Smuth Staircase. — " Edward VI.," in crayons ; " Jane Seymom- "
(1509-1537) ; " Catherine Parr " (1513-1548) ; " Thomas Seymour "
(on panel), beheaded 1549, man-ied Catherine Pair ; " Field-Marshal
Conway," Secretary of State 1765, died 1795 (three-quarter length) in
armoui', Reynolds; " Ladj' Jane Seymour," //oiiei/i,- "The First Eail of
Hertford," 1739 (died 1794), Homlba ; " Field- Marsha] Conway" (half
leuglh), RtyncliU; "Sir Theodore Mayerne" (1572-1(355), physician to
James I. and Charles I., Rubeiu ; "Horace V\ alpole " (three-riuarter length)
(1717-1797;, Reynolds: "Female Figure in Costume of luth Century,"
'aiiknou-n; " Miss Brett" (full length), daughter of Lady Macclesfield, the
mother of Savage the poet, Lely ; " Gentleman in a Scarlet Coat,'' unknoion;
" MissBrett," sister of the previous one, Lely : * " Henry VIII," (head in
panel); "Three Paintings of Dogs. Goats, and Game," Morland ; "La
Solfatara a Ponsale," (Giotto del Cane), Claude Joseph Vernet.- "Leopold II.,
King of the Belgians," inscribed, " Ullered to General the Marquis of
Hertford, G.C.B., Lord Chamberlain, by the King of the Belgians, 1879,"
"Two Paintings of Goats and Dogs," Morland: "Dutch Fair," a
characteristic painting, Falens : " Two Young Noblemen in Classic
Costume,"(the first Marquis of Hertford and his brother); ' 'Augustus Henry,
third Duke of Grafton,' (1735-1811), a sketch, Reynolds: " Martyrdom of
St. La^v^ence," Spagaoletto ; " Francis, second Baron Conway," afterwards
first Marquis of Hertford (diea 1794), on horseback in front of a cottage
with cottagers, Morland,: "Fishing Scene," Morland: "Goat with
Vegetables," Morland: " Csesar Alexander Scaglia" Abbot of Statt'ord
(died 1541), Van Dyck : "Martyrdom of St. Andrew," Copy: "Landing
1 He was the son of Jan Baptista Van Helmont, the eminent Flemish
physician and chemist, and was a clever man of a visionary character, who
seems to have devoted himself lai-gely to alchemy and metaphysics. He
was patronised by the last Countess of Conway and was for a time at
Ragley, probably about the years 1(383-4. He edited for the Countess
the work entitled " De Revolutione ;uiimarum humanarum quanta sit
istius Doctrinse cum veritate Christianae Religionis coiiformitas. Problem-
atum Centurife duse Lectori modeste, modesto propositas & Latinitate
donataj." lOn the transmigration of human souls, how far the doctrine
is conformable with the truth of the Christian religion. Two hiuidred
problems discreetly laid before the gentle reader and presented in Latin.)
This book wiia published in London in 1684.
bHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 175
of William III. atTorbay, November, 5th, 16SS," Van der Belt: " Rape of
Helen," after Kabens ; " Lord Rotbiey's Victory over C. de Giasse in the
West Indies, April 12th, 17S2," Dominic Scrrts; "Viscount Beauchamp,''
afterwards second Marquis of Hertford (1743-1S22); "Isabella,
Viscountess Beauchamp," daughter of ninth Viscount Irvine and
second wife of Francis Viscount Beauchamp.
Passage over Great Hall. — Large picture of the packing of the
run of three packs of hounds on a liillside ; the locality is uncertain,
but probably represents Red Hill, near Haselor. The picture is by
Wootton, and contains portraits of Lord Conway, Lord Windsor, and
Lord Archer.
North Staircase (from Top). — "Earl of Conway" (died 16S3) ;
"Countess of Conway;" "Holy Family," unknoirn; * " The Sen.ses," a
beautiful painting, Tintoretto: " Antioclius, or Seleucus and Stratonice,"
Valeria CastcUi : "Pigs," Morland : "Zebu Cow, and Calf," Ward;
" Miss Jane Seymour Conway " (died unmarried 1739), Jarcis : " St.
Matthew," Luca Giordano; "Ignatius Loyola" (1491-155(5), founder of the
order of Jesuits, Spanish School; "Portrait of a lady;" "Dr. Jeremy
Taylor, Bishop of Down and Connor, and of Diomore " (1613-1667), copied
from a jjioture at All Souls, Oxford; "A Portrait;" "The Angel
Gnhriel," Rubens: "The Toilette of Venus," Tiimii ; "Holy Family,"
Bassano : "Cupids," copied from Comggio ; *" Itinerant Musicians,"
Ghezzi; "Dr. Hewitt," Stone; "Admiral the Hon. Sir George Berkeley "
(1753-1818), Gainsborough ; " Lady Hamilton " (three-quarter length)
(1764-1815), Aagelica Kaufman; *" Portrait of a Cavalier," unknoirn;
"Portrait of a Lady," F. Van Mieris or Van Dyck : "Two Portraits of
Ladies," Lely; "Augustus Henry, Third Duke of Grafton" (fuU length)
(1735-1811), uiiknown; "Lady in Black Dress, Slashed," Van Dyck;
"Marquis of Hertford," when three years old; here is also a brass gun
from Tel el Kebir, 1882, presented by Lord Alcester.
Long Dining Room. — Over the four doors are paintings of the Seasons,
exquisitely executed to resemble basso-relievos. ^Ul the [jictiu'es in this
room, except that of the Queen, are full length portraits in panels.
"Queen Victoria," in oval frame over the fireplace, Angeli, inscribed,
" Gift of Queen Victoria to Fi'ancis H. C, fifth Marquis of Hertford,
G.C.B., on resigning the appointment of Lord Chamberlain to Her
Majesty, 1879;" "Charles, second Duke of Grafton" (1683-1757), Vanloo;
"Sir Robert Walpole " (1676-1746), Vanloo; "Queen Charlotte" (1744-
1818), Rant^ay: "King George III." (1738-1820), Ranisay ; " Charles II."
(1630-1685) ; " George IV. as Prince Regent," in the robes and insignia of
the Garter (1762-1830), Sir T. Lawrence: "Sir Edward Seymour, fourth
Baronet " (died 1708), Speaker of the House of Commons in the Long
Parliament, copied from Lely by Clarke.
Little Blue Drawing Room. —" Charles Colmore, Esq., of Birming-
ham" (died 1794), Gainsborougli : "Viscount Beauchamp," afterwards
second Marquis (died 1822), Reynolds : "Nell Gwynne " (1650-1687), with
a model of Chelsea Hospital in her hand, Lely ; "A Lady in a White
Dress" ;Maderaoiselle de Grammont " (Mrs. Middleton), Lely; "Francis,
first Baron Conway" (died 1731), second son of Sir Edward Seymour,
Speaker of the Long Parliament ; "Madame Le Brun," a pretty picture,
Bianchini ; in a cabinet are some splendid China cups with feet, and other
cabinets in this room and the adjoining closet contain a large amount of
magnificent china, chiefly oriental.
Blue Drawing Room. — ' "Garden of Love," Rubens; three frames of
miniatures, containing amongst others portraits of " Lady Horatio
Seymom-," by Cosway ; " Francis, fifth Marquis of Hertford, when a
lieutenant in the third Regiment of Guards, and his wife, Lady Emily
MvuTay " ; three landscapes. Van Uden and Teniers.
Saloon. — " Raising of Lazarus " Van Haarlem (C. Cornelisz) ; "Charles,
176 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Becond Duke of Grafton " (died 1757), Hvdson; "Henriett?, Duchess of
Grafton," wife of Charles, second Duke, Ldy : "Mrs Robinson" (1758-
ISOOj (as Perdita), Reynolds: "Dutch Boy Asleep,"!). Tenters ; "Holy
Family," small picture, said to be on stone, unknown : * " Landscape with
Figures and Animals," unknovni : * " Lacemaker with Child and Kitten,"
unknoicn: "Frances," daugliter of Marshal Conway ; " Entry of Christ
into Jerusalem," Boudon; " Frances, second Baron Conway," afterwards
first Marquis of Hertford, in a blue dress, Reynolds: "Duke of York"
(1763-1827), (small fuU length), Francis Grant: "Scene near Rome," a
composite picture, Wihon : " Hawking Party Crossing a Ford," Btrghem;
" Lady Frances William Gordon," Rcyiwlds ; * " Blue Lady " (Miss
Jacobs,)! painted in 1761, Reynolds : " Lord George Seymour," seventh son
of first Marquis (1763-1848), /Jfj/«o;(?«.- " Camp Scene," /. F Van Bloernen
or Orizonte : " James, second Earl of Waldegrave " (died 1763), Reynolds ;
"Field Marshal, the Hon. Seymour Conway" (died 1795), Reynolds:
* "Holy Family," a very fine painting. Van Dyck : " First Marquis of
Hertford " (died 1794), Ri)/nolds : " Lady Waldegrave," Reynolds :
" Frances, Countess of Hertford," afterwards Duchess of Somerset,
Hayman or Hogarth : in this room there are also tliree Sevrfes vases,
estimated to be worth £3,000, a quantity of exquisite china purchased by
Richard, fourth Marquis of Hertford, and a marble table inlaid with
a landscape on marble.
Lady Hertford's Sitting Room. — " Francis Seymour," first Baron
Conway, Hudson: "Lady Horatia Seymour," afterwards Duchess of
Gloucester, a beautiful picture, Hoppncr : "Admiral Sir George F
Seymour," 1861, Lucas : " Lady Laura Seymour," now Countess Gleichen ;
" The Late Marquis of Hertford"; " Francis Seymour,"fiist Baron Conway,
Richard ; "The Countess of Conway."
State Bedroom. — "King George W." (half length), copied by Vcnables
from Sir T. Lawrence, bequeathed to Sir George Seymour by H.R.H.
the Princess Sophia, of Gloucester, in 1846 ; " King Charles IL" Van
Dyck; "St. Michael and Satan," PoMSsiw.- the room also contains a
handsome canopied State bed.
From hence we proceed to Alcester (one mile), and thence
take the Birmingham Road, passing at one mile on the
right Beauchamp's Court, a modern farm house occupying
the site of " the goodly manor house " of the ancient
Beauchamp and Greville families. At two miles we reach
the mansion house of Coughton Court, prettily seated in
well wooded grounds, watered by the river Arrow. At the
south-west corner of the park, surrounded by a railing, is
the base of an ancient cross. This point in ancient times
was one of the entrances of the great forest of Arden,- and
1 Nothing reliable is known of this very handsome lady, it is supposed
that she was either of the class of Miss Kitty Fisher, or a model.
2 The Forest of Arden was never a forest in the legal sense of a special
and limited tract set apart for the preservation of game for the enjoy-
ment of the Sovereign, but only in the sense of being a woody region
forming the highlands of the county north of the Avon, as distinguished
from the Feldon or open country south of the Avon. Elton in his
Origins oj English History states that it was said even in modern timee
that a squirrel might leap irom tree to tree for nearly the whole length of
the comity. The names Arden and Feldon are both mementos of the
ancient Gaels Ardan, signifying a little height, and Falta, enclosed fields.
shakespeabe's land. 177
it is said that at this cross travellers were in the habit of
offering up their prayers for protection and deliverance
from the robbers who haunted the recesses of the forest.
The main feature of the mansion house is the central
portion of the front, which was anciently the Gatehouse,
termed by Dugdale " that stately castle-like Gatehouse of
free stone." It was built by Sir George Throckmorton in
the reign of Henry VIII., and his intention was " to have
made the rest of his house suitable thereto." The entire
structure formerly consisted of a quadrangle surrounded by
a moat, which was spanned by a drawbridge, giving access
to the gateway, which led into the quadrangle. During
the Civil "War the house was greatly injured, being
set on fire in three places, in January, 1644, by the
Parliamentarian forces. The damage was repaired, and at
the same time the house was considerably altered in the
reign of Charles II. by Sir Francis Throckmorton. On the
expulsion of James II., in 1688, a Protestant mob from
Alcester on a day known as " Kunning Thursday," wrecked
and pillaged the chapel, which formed the east side of the
quadrangle, and about 1780 Sir Robert Throckmorton
pulled down the remains of this side, filled up the moat,
and converted the gateway into a hall, at the same time
adding the stuccoed portions of the front to the house.
The gatehouse is a remarkably fine and well-preserved
specimen of its class, its tall octagonal turrets rising
clear above the parapet. The spandrils of the archway
contain the arms of Throckmorton with quarterings. Over
the door in gilt letters is : " Nisi domiuus editlcaverit
domum, in vanum laboraverunt qui edificant eam." A fine
oriel runs up from the archway to the battlemented parapet,
the windows on each stage being continued round the
turrets, giving the whole structure an air of lightness and
elegance. On the base of the oriel is the family crest, an
elephant's head. The inner front of the gateway differs
slightly from the exterior, the turrets being somewhat
larger, and the windows in them of a smaller character.
Over the door in gilt letters is the versicle : " Nisi dominus
custodierit domum frustra vigilat qui custodit eam." The
north and south wings of the house are gabled half-
timbered structures coated with rough cast, the gables on
the south side having carved barge boards with finials of
the Elizabethan period. The north side is covered by a
very fine Westeria Sinensis of great age. The Hall, which
is formed out of the ground floor of the gatehouse, is
vaulted with fan tracery, and contains some tables of the
178 SHAKESPEARfl"S LAND.
Elizabethan period. At the foot of the staircase is a
window of four lights, containing shields of arms, and t?he
south-west window of the drawing room on the first floor
is similarly decorated. A newel staircase of twenty-nine
steps leads from the first floor to the Tower Chamber, which
contains an old stone mantlepiece. The turret in the north-
east corner of this room was opened about 1860, and found to
be hollow from top to bottom. lu it were discovered two
ladders tied together, which still remain, and which enaTjled
persons to go up or down. At the bottom, 36ft. below, was
a priest's hiding place, in which a portable altar-stone
measuring Bin. by 4in. was discovered, marked with the
usual consecration crosses, and was removed to the
adjacent Catholic Church. There is a tradition that an
underground passage leading from the priest's hiding
place exists underneath the tield in front of the house to
the road. The Dining Room and chapel are in the south
wing. The former is panelled with oak in the style of
the reign of Charles II., and contains a handsome oak
mantlepiece, with the Yate and Packington arms brought
from Harvington, and also a chair made from the wood of
the bed occupied by Richard III., the night before Bosworth
Field. The Chapel has no feature of interest beyond some
shields of family arms in the window. The Morning Boom
has a jilain panelling of oak. The house contains a large
collection of family pictures, amongst which the following
are the most interesting: —
"Sir James Willford," in amiour, anno. 1547, on panel; "Colonel
Ambrose Throckmorton," temp., Charles I. ; " Sir Nicholas Throckmorton,"
at the age of 49 ; i "Charles, Cardinal Acton" (1803-1847), Morani;
" Mary Tlirockmorton," wife to Thomas Fitzherbert, painted by her
brother George; "Elizabeth," wife to Sir Robert Throckmorton, 8th
Bart., with her two eldest children (full length), Partridge ; " Sir Robert
Throckmorton," 1st Bart., 1642; "Sir Francis Throckmorton" (died
16S0), Zoctst ; "Ann Throckmorton," Abbess of St. Augustine's Convent,.
Paris 1730 ; "Robert Throckmorton" (1772), Batoni; "Ann Lady
Throckmorton" (died 172S), let>/ ; "Sir Richard Acton" (1801-1836),
Morani: "Sir Charles Throckmorton " (1757-1 840), with a dog and gun,
Kosse; " Sir George Throckmorton" (1754-1826), Phillips; "Mary,"
wife to Sir John Throckmorton, Batoni; "Sir Robert Throckmorton"
(1702-1791), Rigaud; "Catherine," wife to Sir Robert Thi-ockmorton,
4th Bart. , and daughter of George CoUingwood, of Esslington, Northum-
berland; 2 "Queen Katherine Parr," niece to Katharine, wife of Sir
1 He w.os the Ambassador of Queen Elizabeth to Francis II., King of
France, and his Consort, Mary Queen of Scots, and afterwards
Ambassador to the latter in Scotland. Throgmorton Street, London, is
named after him, from its containing his town hoxise.
2 Her father was executed at Liverpool for participation in the rebelUon
of 1715, and it is said her mother came from Northumberland to take
leave of Ixer husband, but only arrived in time to witness his death upon
the scaifold.
SHAKESPEAEES LAND. 179
George Throckmorton, Kuight (on panel) ; Portrait of a Lady (1737) (kit-
cat size), Vandtrbank ; " vVilliam, 2nd Marquis of Powis," Kneller;
" Sir Robert Throckmorton (died 1580) on panel, one haud resting on a
skull; *" Mary," wife to Francis Viscouut Montague (died 172^), with a
dog.
The Tapestry Bedroom contains some handsome tapestry,
representing scenes from early Roman history, in the
passage is an old piece of carved oak, found at Ombersley,
which contains a small shutter, like a buttery hatch, through
which it is conjectured alms and provisions were distributed
to the poor. It bears the following inscription : — " Domina
Elisabeth Throgmarton, Abbatissa de denne devs, LVIIoo."
After the dissolution, the abbess, who is buried in the
church, took refuge at Coughton with two of her nuns, and
occupied the Tapestry room. The interior of The Quad-
rangle is occupied by formal flower beds. Beyond is an
extensive Lawn with terrace walks and fish-ponds, to the
left of which is a remarkable and lofty hedge of clipped
Irish yew. The Dairy to the north of the court is an old
stone building of the Tudor period. From October '29th to
November 3rd, 1605, the house was occupied by Sir Everard
Digby, who, on the plea that he wanted to attend a
hunting match in the neighbourhood with several
friends, obtained the use of it from Thomas Throck-
morton, the owner, then residing at Weston Underhill,
another family seat in Bucks. At the time of the dis-
covery of the Gunpowder Plot, Fathers Greenway and
Garnet, with Mrs. Brooksby and Ann Vaux, daughters
of Lord Vaux, of Harrowden, were here awaiting the news
of its success, and Bates, Catesby's servant, brought them
the terrible tidings of its failure in a letter from Sir
Everard. In connection with the house there is a ghost
legend, the mystery of which has never been unravelled.
Sometimes by day and at other times by night, weird foot-
steps are heard ascending the main staircase, they then
proceed round the drawing room to the south-west turret,
where they die away, causing from the mysterious
invisibility of the agency a feeling of superstitious awe in
the minds of listeners. In the lifetime of Sir Robert
Throckmorton the flooring of this turret was taken up, and
an old short sword was discovered underneath the boards.
This sword is now preserved at Buckland.^
In proximity to the house on the south side is the
^ According to tradition, it was with this weapon that Sir Francis
Smith, of Ashby Folville, rescued the King's standard at the Battle of
Edge Hill.
180 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Church, which is in the late Perpendicular style, and
probably built between 1486 and 1518 by Sir Robert
Throckmorton. The building consists of an embattled
tower with pinnacles, nave with north and south aisles,
chancel and chantry chapels extending eastward of the
aisles nearly the whole length of the chancel, and a pseudo-
gothic south porch. At the north-east angle of the north
aisle is a turret which seems to have contained the stairs
leading to the rood loft. The nave opens to each of the
aisles by three obtuse pointed four-centred arches, and the
clerestory on each side contains four square headed
windows of three lights. Most of the pe^cs in the Church
are low open sittings, panelled at the sides, of the same date
as the building. At the west end is some linen pattern
panel work of the same period. The font is a plain
octagonal basin, chamfered beneath, and supported by
short cyndrical columns, resting on a raised plinth. In
the centre of the nave is a high tomb of mottled marble,
intended to be the burial place of Sir Robert Throckmorton,
who died on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land about 1520. It
has since been appropriated as the resting place of Sir
Robert Throckmorton, 4th Bart., died 1791, of his grandson,
Sir John Throckmorton, died 1819, and of Mary, his wofe,
died 1821. Under the arch, between the chancel and the
north chantry chapel, is the high tomb of mottled coloured
marble of Sir Geonje Throckmorton, Knight, died 1558,
and Lady Catherine, his wife. On the slab are brass effigies
of the Knight in armour, and his wife in a gable-shaped
head dress and high bodied gown. Beneath these, on brass
plates in two groups, are eight male and eleven femalfr
children. Above and below are brass shields charged with
arms. The inscription is as follows : — " Of your charite
praye for the soule of Syr George Throkmorton, Knyght,
and Dame KatherjTi, his wyfe, one of the doughters of S;yr
Nycholas Vaiise, Knyght lord Harroden, whyche Sjt
George decessyd the . . . day of ... in the yere of the
incarnation of our Lord God MCCCCC . . . and Dame
Katheryn died the . . . day of MVo ... on whose soules
Jhu have mercy, amen." On the south side of the chancel,
inside the altar rails under a square tester headed canopy
supported by six composite columns standing on projecting
plinths, is a high tomb, bearing recumbent effigies in white
marble of Sir John Throclimorton, Knight, and Dame
Margerie, his wife. The knight is bareheaded, with
mustachios and beard, and wears a doublet or jerkin,
buttoned from the neck downwards, and over it a long
SHAKESPKAEE.S LAXD. 181
side gown, open in front. The lady is attired in a puckered
gown, a ruff round her neck, with a close fitting cap on the
head, over which is a French hood. Her right hand holds
her husband's hand. At the head in has relief are the
kneeling figures of five children, on the north side in two
compartments are three kneeling females and an infant in
swathing bands. The inscription runs thus; — " Here liethe
interred the bodie of Syr John Throkmorton, Knyght, of
Fekenham. the seventhe sonne of Syr George Throkmorton,
Knyght, of Coughton, somtime master of the requests vnto
Queene Marie of happie memorie, who in respect of his
faytfull service bestowed upon him the office of Justice of
Chester, and of her Counsayle in the marches of Wales, in
which roome he continued xxiii. yeares, and supplied
■within the same time the place of vice president the space
of iii. yeares. He had to wife Margerie Puttenham,
doughter of Robert Puttenham, esquier, by whome he had
issewe v. sonnes and iiii. doughters. He departed this life
the 22 of IMay ao 1580. His wife survived, who lived and
dyed his Wydoe ao . . . and is here also interred, on whose
soules God have mercy." On the opposite side is a high
tomb to Sir Robert George Throckmorton, 8th Bart, (died
1862), and his wife Elizabeth (died 1850). Under the arch
between the chancel and the south chantry chapel is a
plain high tomb, the sides divided into compartments
containing shields and an inscription to Sir Robert Throk-
morton, son and heir of Sir George Throkmorton, with
laudatory verses in latin. The date has not been inserted,
and should be 1580. The North Chantry C'hajyel, formerly
contained a brass plate with evangelistic sjTnbols in the
corners, and an inscription to the memory of Dame
Elizabeth Throkmorton, the last abbess of Denny, near
Waterbeach, in Cambridgeshire, who died January 13th,
1547. This plate appears to have been stolen in recent
years. The stained glass in the church is of artistic and
valuable character, dating from the end of the 15th or
beginning of the 16th centurj-. The east uindoic contains
fragments ol figures, said to represent the Three Sybils.
The windows on the north side of the north chapel contain
figures of the apostles, with their symbols, and a sentence
from the creed. In the second window from the east end :
St. Peter with key Credo in Deum, St. Andrew with the
cross saltire £t in Jesum Christuin, St. James the Greater in
pilgrims dress Qui concepfus est, St. John with the poisoned
chalice Qui passus est. In the window nearest the east end r
St. Philip with the cross, staff, and bag, Descendit ad
182 shak'Espeare's land.
iiiternum, St. Thomas with a spear Ascendit ad ccelos, St.
Bartholomew with a knife Inde ventwus est, St. Matthias
with a halbert and book Credo in In the second
window from the east end of the south chapel are figures of
St. Mark, St. Luke, and St. Matthew, with their symbols.
They are probably of German production, and of the school
of Albert Durer.
ROLfE 11.— ALCESTER TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON OR
WILMCOTE.
This route lies through a country but little explored and
full of charms for those who take a pl^sure in unfrequented
and beautiful rural lanes abounding in picturesque
surprises.
Quitting Alcester by the Stratford Road, we cross the
Arrow, by Oversley Bridge, a quaint old brick structure-
with stone dressings, buift in the year 1600. At one mile
and a half ou the left we come to a cross road to Haselor
and Kinwarton, and at two miles and a quarter on the right
reach a prominent conical hill, covered with trees, and
locally known as Alcock's Arbour, regarding which Dugdale
relates the following legend :— " Southwards from Haseler
(but within the same parish) is a coppice wood, and in it a
notable hill, which is of such a steep and equal ascent from
every side as if it had been artificially made, so that it is a
very eminent mark over all that part of the country, and
by the common people called Alcock's Ai-bour. Towards
the foot whereof is a hole, now almost filled up, having
been the entrance into a cave, as the inhabitants report :
of which cave there is an old wives story, that passes
for current amongst the people of the adjacent towns — viz.,
that one Alcock, a great robber, used to lodge therein, and
having got much money by that course of life, hid it in an
iron-bound chest, whereunto were three keys, which chest,
they say, is still there, but guarded by a cock that
continually sits upon it : and that on a time an Oxford
schollar came thither with a key that opened two of the
locks ; but as he was attempting to open the third, the cock
seized on him. To all which they adde, that if one Bone of
the partie, who set the cock there, could be brought, he
would yield up the chest." There can be little doubt that
this mound is the sepulchral tumulus of a Celtic Chieftain
named Olcohhar, a proper name which also means avarice,
covetousness, and probably served as a foundation for the
legend. Arbour is evidently a corruption of Ao-cl-fert, " the
height of the grave." The cock by which the chest is-
guarded is probably a perversion of coic, a secret, a mystery.
The secret being the position of the real; entrance to the
184 shakespraee's land.
sepulchre in which the old chief was in all likelihood
buried in a standing position, clothed in his armour. About
600 yards to the south-east of this spot in the direction of
Exhall Lodge is Grove Hill, from which issues a spring
which anciently bore the name of Caldwell, being remark-
able for a Hermitage which stood close by, and which has
now disappeared.
Half a mile further, a lane on the right ascends Kollswood ^
Hill, and then leads to Temple Grafton ^ (one mile and a half)
the "Hungry Grafton" of tlie epigram. From the top of
the hill there is a fine view to the north, and from Temple
Grafton itself there is a magnificent view southwards of
the Cotswold Hills, extending as far as Cheltenham. There
seems good ground for believing that the former church,
which was erected early in the 14th century and was
pulled down in 1876, witnessed the Marriage of Shakespeare
with Anne Hathwey, or Hathaway. In the Episcopal
Registers, at Worcester, there appears under date of the
27th November, 1582, a record of a license for marriage
between " AVillielmum Shaxpere and Annam "Whateley, de
Temple Grafton." Seeing that the marriage bond entered
into by Shakespeare's sureties is dated the 28th November,
1582, the coincidences of date and name are too marked
to lead to any other supposition than that this licence
refers to the Poet, and that by a clerical error the
surname of the wife is described as Whateley instead
of Hathwey, which, having regard to the diverse ways
in which proper names were then spelt, is not very
singular. The fact that the bond was entered into on the
day following the licence leads to the presumption that
immediately the licence wa^ granted it became apparent
that Shakespeare was a minor, and that the bond was then
insisted upon in order to exonerate the Bishop from
liability. There remains the point that in the bond Anne
Hathwey is recorded as of Stratford, maiden, whereas in the
licence the description is of Temple Grafton. There is,
however, nothing remarkable in this, since she would
naturally be described in the bond according to the
domicile of her father, whereas in the licence she would be
1 Gael roilhh, a lull.
2 This village ^\as in the reign of Henry I. bestxjwed by Henry de
Grafton on the Knights Hospitallers, who in turn gave half a hide of it to
Simon de Arden. Until the reign of Henry VIII. it bore the name of
Grafton Sv.ptvior, and Arden's Grafton was termed Grafton Jnfei-ior.
Grafton is derived from the A.S. Graf, a moat or ditch. Hungry is an
«pithet applied to land of a poor or unproductive character.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 185
registered as of the place in which she was at the time
residing and at which she was to be married. Privacy
at once suggests itself as a motive for the marriage
taking place some miles away from the homes of both
bride and bridegroom, as it is likely that the bridegroom
would wish to keep the matter as long as he could from
the knowledge of his father, and the condition of the bride
would possibly make her desire to escape the gossip of the
neighbours. It appears probable that the young couple
were staying with relations of the bride, but who these
were seems now undiscoverable, as the register of baptisms
and burials of the parish only dates from 1693, and of
marriages from 1697. According to the bond the marriage
was to be solemnised " with once asking of the banns," and
as this would naturally be done on the succeeding
Sunday, which was the 2nd December, the wedding
no doubt took place immediately after that date. The
present Church is a neat modern building in the Decorated
style. The old church, which is said to have been in a
ruinous condition when pulled down, consisted of chancel,
nave, north aisle, south, and possibly north transept, a
south porch, and a small square wooden turret with a tiled
roof. The windows of the present chancel (in which some
portions of the old church have been incorporated) are
stated to be modelled upon the old windows. The
village nestles cosily in a pretty dell to the east. A
quarter of a mile to the west is Arden's Grafton, also
containing some picturesque farm buildings and thatched
cottages. Southward is Grafton Court, a fine modern
building of brick in the Tudor style, standing in a park of
600 acres.
Retracing our way to the cross road, we take the route
to the left to the pretty village of Haselor (one mile)
through a charming lane. Haselor House still shows some
remains of early 17th century work in the curved braces
which form part of its framework. Near a barn by the
wayside are the ancient stocks, containing spaces for three
culprits, and which were last used about the year 1841, for
the punishment of two boys who had been trampling down
corn. The Church, which is pleasantly situated on a
steep hill between the hamlets of Walcote and Upton, dates
from the 12th century, and was restored in 1883. It has a
wooden porch which retains a good deal of interesting
carved and other oak work of the 15th century. Near the
footpath from Walcote are the steps and octagonal stump
of an ancient wayside cross, at which in ancient times
meetings were held and proclamations read.
186 Shakespeare's land.
Again returning to the cross road we resume our way
towards Stratford, and soon arrive at Red Hill, a steep
richly wooded ascent up which the road winds. Shortly
after reaching the top at four and a half miles from Alcester
a lane turns off on the left to Billesley. From this point
Stratford-on-Avon, the church spire of which is visible,
may be reached in three and a half miles, the route however
through Billesley to Wilmcote is infinitely more picturesque.
In half a mile we reach Billesley Manor, a stone building
with square mullioned windows, which formed the south
wing of an Elizabethan mansion, the remainder of which
has been destroyed. It contains nothing of special interest.
Next to it is the Church of the time of William III., a very
small building of brick with stone quoins. ^ A bit of very
worn carving of a human figure is built into one of the
walls. Keeping along the lane in front of the Manor
House, we ascend a steep wooded hill, from the top of
which there is a beautiful prospect, and in about one mile
and three-quarters from Billesley, arrive at WUmcote
Church, a modern building erected in the year 1841.
The whole of the route from Alcester lies through a
beautifully wooded undulating country, the crab and perry
pear tree are prominent in the hedgerows, wild flowers
abound, and the old half-timbered thatched cottages
nestling among creepers and standing in pretty rustic
gardens, or pleasant little orchards form a charming finish
to the delightful rural scenery. So much isolated is this
district from the busy hum of nineteenth century life that,
as one of the inhabitants aptly said, it forms " a corner of
the world."
1 Shakespeare's granddaughter Elizabeth, widow of Thomas Nash, was
married on June 5th, 1649, at Bijlesley, to John Bamiard, Esq., who was
afterwards knighted by Chprles 11.
ROUTE 12.— BEL\RLEY TO LAPWORTH Via HENLEY-
IN-ARDEX.
The road from Bearley to Henley-in-Arden is a very-
pleasant one, at two miles it crosses the Alne, affording a
pretty vista of the river, which is fringed by handsome
trees. Just be-yond on the right is Wootton Hall, a mansion
in the Italian style, built about the middle of the 17th
century, the property of Sir Charles Smythe, and a short
distance further is the Church of Wootton 'Wawen,^ remark-
able both for its antiquity and curious construction. The
church consists of a south porch, chancel, south aisle,
clerestoried nave, a central embattled tower with pinnacles
at the angles, and a large chantry chapel extending west
from the south aisle. The two lower stages of the central
toxvtr are Saxon, but with the exception of a blocked-up
semi-circular headed doorway on the north, and some
rubble work on the south, the exterior shows very little
Saxon work, as the north side, which is the only one
exposed, is stuccoed over. The iipper stage or belfrey,
which is embattled with crocketted pinnacles at the angles,
is an addition of the 15th century. The east wiixdoiv of
the chancel is a large and handsome Decorated window of
seven principal cinque-foiled lights, with the mullions
carried uprightly into the head, which is sub-divided into
twenty-two smaller panel-shaped lights. Round the edge
of the jamb and architrave is a curious and unique form of
ornamentation, consisting of continuous crockets running
up a hollow moulding. The Chantry Chapel has a good
five-light Decorated window. The north doorway of the
nave is plain, on the door itself is a curious iron scutcheon
and ring. At the west end of the interior of the nave is a
Perpendicular window with sculptured corbel heads of
King Edward III. and Queen Philippa. The nave opens
into the south aisle by three arches of the Decorated period.
1 Dugdale says, "As for the name there is no question but that it was
originally occasioned from the situation being amongst woods . , .
h.aving the addition of Waweu in regard that one Wagcii (commonly
called Wawc'ii), Lord tiiereof before the Norman conquest, had his seat
here.
188 Shakespeare's land.
The north side is lighted by an early Norman and a
Decorated window. The south aisle has two early
Decorated windows, each of four lancet-shaped lights, and
the clerestory has four good Perpendicular windows on each
side. 1\\Qf'ont near the south door is a plain octagonal
basin, standing on eight carved hooded heads. The puljnt
between the second and third bays of the nave is of carved
woodwork of the 15th century, and at the east end of the
nave is a fine ancient wooden screen, flanked on each side
by parcloses or inclosures of open oak panelling. The
arches of the toxoer exhibit in the alternate long and short
stones bonding into the wall termed " long and short "
work, clear evidences of Anglo-Saxon origin. The arch
communicating with the chancel is probably the smallest
chancel arch in this country. The altar is now placed in
this tower. Passing into the chancel, we come to some
ancient open pews with finial headed standards at the ends,
next to them in the north wall is a high tomb bearing a
sculptured recumbent elfigy in alabaster of a man clad in
armour of the period of Henry V., the feet resting on a
long-eared dog with a collar round the neck. The figure
is unhappily much mutilated, and is probably that of John
Hareivell, who died in 1428. Further along, within the
altar rails, which are in the style of the 17th century, is
another high tomb covered with a slab of dark coloured
marble, bearing the inlaid brass effigies of John Hareioell,
died 1605, and Anna, his wife, with an inscription on brass
running round the edge. The husband is bare-headed and
clad in armour. The wife wears a pedimental head-dress
with lappets, a low bodied gown with large sleeves, under-
neath which the puckered sleeves of the kirtle are visible,
and carries a pomander box suspended by a chain from the
waist. Small figures of five sons are engraved below the
effigy of the father, and five daughters below that of the
mother. The inscription runs thus : — " Hi iacet Johes
Harewell, armig' et dna Anna qondam uxor eius ac
nup'uxor Edwardi Grey militis qui quidem Johes obiit
X2.die Aprilio anno dui MVc V et que quidem Anna obiit
.... die ... a dni MV .... quorum aiabz
ppitietur deus." The date of the wife's death is omitted,
probably because the monument was constructed during
her life time. The chantry chapel opens out of the
chancel by two double-faced pointed arches. In the south
wall is a richly decorated unfinished piscina, and the hood
moulding of a sepulchral arch probably designed to cover a
benefactor's tomb. Against the north wall is a high tomb
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 189
bearing under a canopy, supported by pilasters and Ionic
columns, the mutilated effigy of a man in armour, reclining
on his side with a Latin inscription to Francis Smith, died
September 3rd, 1626. At the east end to the disfigurement
of the window, is a hideous monument with an urn to the
memory of Martha, wife of Robert Knight. The south wall
is covered with mural tablets, the principal of these is a
pretentious monument extending to the roof, with fluted
Corinthian columns and wings on each side. It bears an
inscription to the memory of the Hon. Henry Kni(jht, died
1762, and his sister Henrietta, died 1763 On the floor is a
plain slab inscribed " H.S.E. Gulielmus Somervile, armig
obiit 170 Julii, 1742. Si quid in me boni compertum habeas
imitare. Si quid mali totis viribus evita. Christo confide.
Et scias te quoque fragilem esse et mortalem." ^ This
epitaph, which is believed to be his own composition,
covers the grave of William Somervile,- the celebrated
author of " The Chase " and other poems. Under the east
window stands a curious old oak church chest, standing
on four panel legs, having three locks and ornamented with
double fleiu- de lis iron work. Near the arch leading into
the south aisle is a large long desk, which contains eight
theological works ranging between the years 1570-1646,
chained to a rail, according to the custom of the times.
Resuming our route we reach Henley-in-Arden, a pleasant
little old-world market town. The church consists of an
imseparated nave and chancel, a north aisle, a battlemented
tower with pinnacles, a west porch, and a small vestry
on the north side. The style of architecture is late
Perpendicular tending to become debased. On the north
side of the porch is an ogee-headed niche, which formerly
contained a small stoup. The pulpit is hexagonal, carved
with the linen-fold pattern, and having panels of sunk
quatrefoils above, dating apparently from the early part of
the 16th century. There are no other features of general
interest. The Old Market Cross, surrounded by a railing,
stands a little to the north. It is of the 16th century, and
consists of a tall slender shaft rising out of a base composed
of three steps. The capital was formerly ornamented with
figures in canopied niches, which have now completely
1 If thou hast found anything in me that is good, imitate it. If any-
tliing evil, avoid it with aU thy .strength. Put thy trust in Christ, and
know that thou also art frail and mortal.
2 He was born at Edstone Hall, about one mile distant, the house was
pulled down at the commencement of the century, and a modern mansion
built on its site.
190 SHAKESPEAEE"? LAND.
perished. Numerous curious half-timbered houses are to
be met with in the town.^
On the north side of the church the road runs dovrn to
Beaudesert, locally pronounced Belser, the two churches
being rather less than a quarter of a mile apart, separated
by a dell through which the river Alne flows. The church,
dedicated to St. Nicholas, stands at the foot of the Castle
Hill, and contains some exquisite specimens of Xorman
architecture. The church consists of chancel, nave, south
porch, and an embattled western tower. The tojcer- is of
the 15th century, and the walls of the nave and chancel are
Norman work, with insertions of windows of the 14th
century. The arch of the south dooncay is verj- handsome
restored Norman work, recessed and ornamented with
zigzag and lozenge mouldings, and the modern iron work
of the door is correspondingly good. The east ivindotc is
also of rich Norman work, faced with zigzag, star and
indented mouldings. On the south side of it is a mural
tablet to the Hev. H. Jago, father of the poet of the same
name, who was bom here October 1st, 1715. The doorway
on the north has a plain Norman arch. The grand feature
of the interior is the remarkably fine restored Norman arch
separa.ting the chancel from the naA^e, which is recessed
and richly ornamented with zigzag, wave and tooth
mouldings, supported on clustered cylindrical shafts ^\•ith
escalloped capitals. The chancel is lighted on each side
by two Norman windows, pierced in a wall five feet thick.
A curious segmental arch, probably designed to act as a
buttress, joins the north wall of the chancel to the naA^e.
A lofty Perpendicular arch opens to tlie tower, displaying
a west window of three lights filled with stained glass. It
will be noticed that this arch is to the south of the axis of
the nave, in fact the whole church is lopsided, for which
various explanations have been given. The font is a plain
octagonal basin resting on an octagonal shaft on a base of
three steps, on the east side of the south door is an ancient
Kurman stoup. The chiu'ch was thoroughly restored in
186i.
At the east end of the churchyard is a hill called " the
1 In .oiicient times the town appeai-s to have been a more viTacious
place than it is now, as in 1655, at the Easter Quarter Sessions, the Court
received the following Pttritanical presentment, " that usually heretofort.-
there have been at HtnUy-in-Ard'.n several unlawfull meetings of idle anil
vaine persons about this time of the yeare /'<>(■ ertctinpe of Hay Pola «;>•/
May Bi'.slies, and for vstinpe of Morris Dances anxl other heathenish antt
v.nlaicfi'U Ci'.stoYaes, the obserracon whereof tendeth to draw together a
greate concourse of loose people."
SHAKESPR are's LAND. 191
Mount," which represents all that remains of the Castle
built here in the 12th century, by Thurstan de Montfort,
great nephew to the first Earl of Atarwick. The date when
it fell into decay is unknown, but it occurred during the
Wars of the Roaea. Looking south and south-east from
the summit there is a fine view of the Edge Hills, eighteen
miles distant, and also of the Malvern Hills.
From hence we proceed to Lapworth (three and three-
quarter miles. At the Bird-in Hand (one mile and a quarter)
a lane on the right leads to Camp Hill (half a mile), said to
have been a Roman post, from which a beautiful prospect
of the surrounding country unfolds itself. At two miles
a fine vieAv looking southwards is obtained from the summit
of Liveridge Hill, and at Lapworth Bridge (three miles), a
lane on the right leads to Lapworth Church, which stands on
a gentle eminence rendering the spire a conspicuous object
for some distance around. It consists of chancel with
chantrj' chapel on the north side, a clerestoried nave with
a species of open porch and chapel above at the west end,
aisles, and an embattled tower (connected with the north
aisle by a covered lobby) with a turret at the north-west
angle and a spire. With the exception of the chancel
(which seems to have been re-built early in the 14th
century) and the pews and arches of the nave the whole
church was re-constructed in the 15th century. The
chancel was evidently designed by the builder of Wroxall,
as the windows closely resemble those of that church,
which was consecrated in 1315. The clerestory, which is
embattled, is divided on each side by five pinnacled
buttresses into four compartments, each containing a
square headed window of three lights. The aisles are also
battlemented and furnished with pinnacled buttresses.
The porch of the south aisle is of open timber frame work.
The gargoyles of this aisle are peculiar, consisting of
boldly sculptured figures of chimerse with bats' wings,
constructed about 1460. The west window is of stunted
dimensions, owing to the chantry chapel beneath it. This
chapel, which was probably founded by Richard de
Montfort and others in 1374, is built over a porch, the
groining of which appears never to have been completed.
On the west side is a small ogee headed niche, intended
for a figure. Two stone staircases lead up from the porch
to the chapel. The chantry chapel at the north side of
the chancel appears from its architecture to have formed an
adjunct of the ancient building. The nave opens into the
aisles on each side by four bays in the Decorated style, the
192 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
pillars on the north being cylindrical, while four of those
on the south are hexagonal. Between the third and foiirth
bays on the north side are the remains of an old
Norman window, the sole survivor of the original
church. The corbels of the clerestory are sculptured with
well executed bats and frogs. In the south wall of the
south aisle is a plain piscina with a credence table. From
the north aisle a vestibule communicates with the tower.
The chantry chapel on the north side now forms a vestry
and an organ chamber ; on the east wall are two small
angular brackets for images. The modern chancel rails are
formed of stone and marble columns, and the pulpit is
similarly ornamented. The reredos of alabaster contains a
representation of the Last Supper, and the seats in the
chancel have carved panels formed out of parts of a
parclose or rood loft screen of the 15th century. The altar,
now covered with an ornamental cloth, has richly carved
urn shaped legs of the Elizabethan period. The font,
which stands west of the north-west pier of the south aisle
is octagonal, standing on a shaft of similar form and is
ornamented with sculptured heads underneath the basin.
The church was restored in 1872 and the spire in 1884.
EOUTE 13.— WARWICK TO K^'OWLE AND SOLIHULL
Via lower NORTON, CLAVERDON, AND HENLEY-
IN-ARDEN.
The shortest route to Henley-in-Arden from Warwick lies
via Claverdon. At Lower Norton (thi'ee miles), a road on
the left leads to Norton Lindsey (one mile), which contains
a small church situated on a slight eminence, commanding
a delightful view southwards. The church, which retains
many of its original features, is principally in the Early
English style, with a few traces of Decorated work. On
the north side of the east window is a bracket for an image.
The font consists of an ancient cylindrical bowl leaded in
the interior, and standing on a circular shaft of greater
diameter than the bowl. The Elizabethan chalice of the
year 1571 is interesting. In the churchyard is a cross
erected on an ancient base at the cost of the Rev. H. J.
Torre.
A mile and half further westward is the neat little
church of Wolverton,i also situated on an eminence. The
building is principally in the Early English style. The
■chancel screen in the Perpendicular style is mainly a
restoration. On the north side of the chancel is an
archway, which seems formerly to have covered a " Holy
Sepulchre " and is now converted into an entrance to a
small vestry. On the opposite side are the remains of a
plain rude sedilia of three stages and a piscina. The small
ancient altar table now in the vestry appears to lie of the
middle of the 16th century. The font is octagonal with a
quatre-foiled circle on each face. The windows retain
some remains of ancient glass. The most westerly window
of the nave contains pattern glazing; that on the north
side, which is probably of the reign of Henry VI., displays
the remains of two figures, a man and a woman, with an
angel and a saint, the latter evidently St. Peter. A boar's
1 A cuiious old custom still prevails here. On the Sunday following a
funeral the relations and friends attend churcli, and during the singing of
the hymn the females remain seated. This may possibly be a mutilated
commemoration of the Roman Catholic usage, by which on similar
occasious the whole congregation sit dvu-ing the singing of the Dies Ira.
H
194 Shakespeare's land.
head with a bell round it and another bell are also
noticeable.
Kesuming the main route we reach Claverdon (six miles)
picturesquely seated on a hill. The church consists of
chancel, nave, south aisle, south, porch, and embattled
tower of two stages in the Perpendicular style. The tower
is the only part remaining of the old church, the remainder
having been re-built in 1875. A peculiarity of the
building is that the axis of the nave is to the south of the
centre. The principal feature in it is the Monument of
Thomas Spencer, which consists of a high tomb beneath a
flat tester canopj', surmounted by an escutcheon of seven
quarterings with helm, crest, and mantling, placed against
the north wall of the chancel. Beneath this canopy was a
sarcophagus, which has disappeared. A tablet at the back
bears the following inscription : — " Here lyeth the body of
Thomas Spencer of ClaA'eydon in ye County of Warwicke
Esquier second sone of Sir John Spencer of Althroppe in
the County of Northampton Knight who deceased the 8th
dale of iS'ovember in the yeare of our Lord God 1586. This
Thomas Spencer married Mary Cheeke the eldest daughter
of Henry Cheeke Esquier and had by her one only
daughter Alice Spencer married unto Sir Thomas Lucy of
Charlecott in the saide County of Warwicke Knight. All
the dales of my appointed time will I wait. — Job xiv., 14."
The church plate, of the year 1683, is very interesting.
Immediately against the external wall of the chancel on
the south side is a canopied monument to Christopher
Flecknoe, steward to Thomas Spencer. In the churchyard
near the south porch is the tomb of John Matthews,
repaired by the churchwardens in 1707 and 1825. It bears
the following inscription : —
Altho' John Matthews under this stone lies rotten,
His deeds and name by us shall never be forgotten ;
That laud unto our church he gave, the 17th year
Of Henry's reign the eightli by feoffment doth appear.
Increased now to twelve pounds yearly rent,
Upon this church by churchmen's care to be well spent.
Let this a pattern be to us which now do live,
Of that which God bestows, part to the church let's give.
A little more than half a mile north of the church is " The
Stone Building," the sole relic of a fine mansion house biult
by Thomas Spencer, who lies buried in the church and who,
according to Dugdale, " for the great hospitality which he
kept thereat, was the mirrour of this county." The
building consists of a rectangular block of three stories,
lighted on the east side by six windows, with an entrance
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 195
doorway on the south side. On the left of the entrance is
a newel staircase of 72 steps conducting to the summit.
On each of the second and third stories are two apartments
leading into one another, lighted by mullioned and
transomed windows. The larger ones, which have open
fireplaces of carved stone, were probably bedrooms, and
the smaller ones dressing rooms. It is said that the
principal purpose of this structure was to enable the ladies
of the family to witness the sport of hawking. The rest
of the mansion appears to have extended to the south.
Attached to it were a tilting ground and a bowling green,
together with several acres of pleasure grounds, having
raised terraces laid out in the formal Elizabethan style, the
traces of all of which are still distinctly visible. Resuming
our route, we come in the valley below Claverdon on the
right to the Manor House, a picturesque old half-timbered
structure. On the opposite side, crowning a hill, is Barmoor
Wood, containing an oval British camp covering between
three and four acres. At seven and a half miles we cross
the Birmingham and Stratford Canal, and reach the Old
Crab Mill Inn, which, as the name imports, was formerly a
cider mill, the " crab " being the winch by which the pulp
was strained. On a steep hill half a mile to the right is
the rustic church of Preston Bagot, originally a rude
Norman structure, enlarged in the 14th century and
thoroughly restored in 1883. It contains on the south side
of the inner wall of the chancel a headless brass effigy of
Elizabeth Randoll (died 1637), which was previously nailed
to the interior of the church door. Two miles further
(nine and a half miles) we reach Henley-in-Arden.
Proceeding onwards by the Bird-in-Hand (one mile
and a quarter from Henley), Liveridge Hill (two miles),
Lapwortli Bridge (three miles), and Lapworth Church (three
and three-quarter miles), we cross the canal, and at four
and three-quarter miles reach Packwood House (G. O. Arton,
Esq.), formerly the residence of the Fetherston family.
The house now standing has some picturesque outlines, but
has been much altered at various times, and is now coated
with rough cast. It seems probable that the greater part
of it was built in the time of the Stuarts, as there are some
wood panelled rooms on the ground floor with carved
chimney pieces of the character known as Jacobean. On
the Lawn facing the park front is a good pillar sundial
with the date 1660, and on the gnomon the arms of Fether-
ston. The wing of the house on the north of the entrance
court containing domestic offices is of excellent brickwork
19(1 SHAKESPEARE'S LAXD.
of the time of William III. or Queen Anne, with moulded
cornices and several mural sundials, some of them of
enormous size. A large Stable remains of this period, the
oaken stalls and fittings of which are verj- massive and
characteristic of their time. The most attractive feature
of the place is, however, the Garden, laid out in the formal
style of the early part of the eighteenth centui-y. It is
surrounded by walls, inside which are raised terraces with
square summer houses at the corners. A long path rims
down the centre, passing at the southern end through a
very beautiful old wrought iron gate attached to brick
piers of very picturesque design and charming colour,
which forms the entrance to an outer garden or orchard.
The pathway through this is lined on each side with
Portugal laurel trees, behind which at intervals are yews
clipped in pyramidical form. At the end of the path is a
lofty mound, crowned by a large spreading yew tree, access
to which is obtained by a spiral winding path enclosed by
lofty box hedges closely clipped. Other yew trees are
sjinmetrically arranged about the bower and mound, and
there are several fine old trees in the adjoining fields,
amongst them being a handsome old oak, covering with its
branches a large extent of ground and known as " the
Packwood Oak."
Eesumiug our route in a quarter of a mile, a road on the
left conducts us in another quarter of a mile to Packwood
Church, which consists of chancel and nave of the latter
part of the 13th century, western tower of the end of the
loth, south porch of the 15th. and north transept of brick
of the 18th century. The toKer is square with an embattled
parapet, and closely resembles that of Baddesley Clinton.
It is said by tradition to have been built by" >'icholas
Brome, temp. Henry VII., in part expiation for killing the
priest of Baddesley. The south porch is a good example of
oak construction of the 15th century. The nave retains on
each side an original window of one light trefoiled, the
others are modern restorations. At the east end of the
south wall of the nave is a piscina. The chancel arch of
two splayed courses is good, the inner course being carried
on moulded and carved corbels. Over the chancel are faint
traces of wall paintings as old as the church, representing
the medieval story of " Les trois %'ifs et les trois morts."
The rood screen is a plain example of 15th century
work. The chancel is interesting and good. The east
window is of three lights with interlacing uncusped
tracery. On the south side is a low side window
Shakespeare's land. 197
■with a trefoil head, and a good trefoil-headed piscina. The
noHh transept of brick was built in 1704 by Thomas
Fetherston to cover the family vault beneath ; it contains
several mural tablets to the memory of members of
the family. The roofs are modern, but contain some of the
original timbers. The old circular/on;; of sandstone with a
moulded rim is mounted on a modern pedestal. Against
the south wall of the tower in an upright position is an old
chest about 5ft. long by 2|ft. wide, hewn out of the solid
tree and banded with iron. On the north wall of the nave
is a mural tablet with the following inscription: — "Here
lyeth the bodie of William Hovell Esqvier & Prvdence his
wyfe davghter of lohn Davers of Cvlworth Esqvier in the
covntie of Northampton & Dorothy Hovell theire davghter
161U." The register contains the following interesting
entry of the marriage of the father and mother of Dr.
Johnsi/n:—'' 1706, Mickell Johnsones, of Lichfeld, and Sara
ford, maried June ye lO^li-" Adjoining the church, sur-
rounded by an old moat, is a modern brick dwelling, which
occupies the site of the ancient Manor House.
Returning to the main road, at six miles from Henlej' we
pass under the railway ; at seven miles we traverse the
hamlet of Rotten Row, and at seven and three-quarter miles
reach the village of Knowle, which is distant one mile and
a quarter from the station. The church, which is in the
Perpendicular style, was built towards the close of the
reign of Richard II., by Walter Cook, a Canon of Lincoln,
in consequence of the difficulty which the inhabitants
experienced in rainy weather and in winter time in getting
to that at Hampton, which was then the mother church.
The building was consecrated on the 24th of February,
1402, under a special Bull from Pope Boniface IX., gi-anting
indulgence to those wdio devoutly repaired thither and
contributed towards the repairs. The church consists of
an embattled western tower, clerestoried nave with north
and south aisles, north chantry chapel and chancel. The
roof appears to have been raised in the loth century, when
the clerestory, which extended into the ancient chancel,
was added, and the chancel was also lengthened by two
bays with tall windows, having muUions and transoms.
The arches of the nave are two centred, with the exception
of the most easterly on the north side, which is four centred.
The altar of the lengthened church must have been at a
much higher elevation than at present, as a sedilia and
piscina on the south side are more that three feet above the
level of the floor ; the original sedilia and piscina now stand
198 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
at the west end of the chancel. The chantry chapel was
founded by Walter Cook and his father in 1403. In the west
wall of this chapel was the entrance to the rood loft now
plastered up. The rood screen, a delicately executed and
very handsome example of Perpendicular work, with ribs
and minute traceries in emulation of fan groining, has
been removed from its original position, and placed on the
east side of the chapel, and in the year 1859 the original
oak stalls were taken out of the chancel and placed at the
east end of the south aisle, and the rest of the building was
roughly treated and damaged. In the floor in front of the
screen is a stone of circular shape from which the brasses
have been removed. It is traditionally said to mark the
grave of Walter Cook, the founder, but no traces of a coffin
or body could however be found when the spot was examined
in 1860, and it therefore seems probable that in accordance
with a frequent custom in those days his entrails only
were interred there. The alfar table with bulging legs is
of the late Elizabethan period. The porch and the vestry
each contain a very interesting old oak chest carved out of
the solid tree. At the west end of the church is an old
half-timbered house of the 15th century, now converted
into a private dwelling house and shop, but which was
formerly The College or Guild House, where the chantry
priests resided. The chief feature remaining of the front
is the large cove beneath the eaves divided by curved ribs.
The hall or principal apartment was supported by carved
oak columns which still survive.
About half a mile north of the village is Grimshaw Hall, a
very fine specimen of timber framed construction of the
early part of the 17th century, consisting of a central block
with a projecting cross gabled porch and projecting gabled
wings. The front between the porch and the wings is
gabled on each side, and the whole of the gables overhang,
displaying elaborated ornamental framing with curved and
cusped braces, characteristic of the 17th century. The
windows project on carved brackets, and the porch, which
is of two stories, is a remarkably beautiful example of the
period, with gables on three sides, an overhanging upper
story carried on bold brackets, and balustraded openings on
each side of the entrance. The opposite front is scarcely
less striking and beautiful, the transverse wings or ends
projecting further than they do on the main front, and
thus forming three sides of a quadrangle. The chimneys
are of an ordinary type, but very bold and effective. The
interior has been very little altered, most of the rooms are
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 199
oak panelled, and the old doors still remain. The staircase
is bold and massive. Very little seems to be known of the
Grimshaws, who once lived here, and who probably built
the house. Somewhat more than a mile away is a moat,
now overgrown with trees, called Grimshaw's Castle, which
may have been the oldest seat of the family. According to
Dugdale, Sibill, daughter and co-heiress of Thomas de
Maidenbach, and wife of Adam de Grymesarwe, in 1319
inherited the manor of Aston and Duds'ton, and there was
formerly a slab in Solihull Church recording the death of
"Richardus Grimshaw, nuper de Baker's lane, gent.," in
1690.
Proceeding on our way, the spire of Solihull Church
becomes a prominent object. At nine and three-quarter
miles, we pass on the left Malvern Hall, the ancient seat of
the Greswolde family, rebuilt in modern times, and at ten
and half miles reach the small town of Solihull, lying half
a mile from the railway station. The Church consists of a
nave with aisles, a central tower and spire, north and south
transepts, and a very fine chancel, which is the earliest and
most interesting part. On the north side is a chapel of two
stories, the upper part forming a sacristy. The chancel
and north chapel are of about the year 1300, the north and
south transepts about 1350, the north aisle about 1375, and
the nave ancl south aisle about 1.535, the latter having been
restored and provided with a new parapet in 1757. The
spire, which now rises to a height of 213ft., was blown
down by a hurricane on the 15th March, 1757, and re-built
on the old model with an increased height of 23ft. The
tower was probably commenced early in the 14th century,
and completed with the spire in the 15th. The entrances
to the church are by a doorway at the west end, and by a
porch on the north side, the archway of which is closed by
a pair of very good wrought iron gates, the gift of Mrs.
Elizabeth Fisher in 1746. Owing to the absence of a
clerestory, the arches of the nave are lofty, giving a
dignified appearance to this i)art of the church, whicli is
otherwise wanting in beauty of detail. At the east end of
the south aisle is a stone reredos of shallow panelling
divided into fourteen niches. The niche in the centre being
intended for a figure of the Virgin, and that on the north
side for the patron Saint, the remainder being appropriated
to the twelve Apostles. In the south wall is a trefoil
headed piscina. In the north aisle, which forms St.
Anthony's Chapel, are the remains of a carved wooden
reredos and a piscina. This chapel is now converted into
200 Shakespeare's land.
" The Malveru Pew," and contains several monuments to
the memors' of owners of Malvern Hall. The noi-th
transept was anciently the Chapel of St. Catharine, and the
south which now forms the organ chamber and choir vestrj^
was the chapel of St. Mary ; this latter contains the
remains of a piscina.
The chancel, which is 54ft. long by 22ft. broad, is of
Early Decorated character and has many beautiful features
of a unique nature. From its resemblance to that of
Buxted Church, in Sussex, which was built by John de
Lewis, in 1292, Mr J. 0. Scott supposes it to have proceeded
from the same hand. On the south side are four two-light
windows with sub-di%-ided heads cusped in a peculiar
manner, the arcs of the featherings terminating in small
curls. The east wiiidow is of five lights with interlacing
tracery and cusped heads and spandrils. On the south
side is a plain sedilia of three seats on different levels and
a fine piscina with a cusped arch and crocketted triangular
canopy. On the north side of the chancel is the tivo
stoned chapel, the entrances to which are side by side, that
to the right leading downwards into the lower stage and
that to the left being approached by a steep flight of
steps. Tlie loicer chamber is groined and divided into two
bays ; it is lighted by four narrow cusped lancet windows.
At the east end is an old stone altar. The upper chamber
which is now used as a vestry, was probably the original
chantry chapel of St. Alphege, founded by Sir William de
Odingsells, in 1301. It was formerly lighted by six
windows of similar design to those in the chancel, two of
these, now blocked up to form cupboards, formerly opened
into the chancel. The chapel contains a mutilated piscina
and a very fine carved chest of the Caroline period and
probably of Flemish origin. The altar rails of twisted
pattern are of the Caroline period, the Communion table
being of late Elizabethan tj'pe with bulbous legs. The
pulpit at the east end of the nave is of Jacobean pattern.
The firnt is large and handsome, consisting of an octagonal
basin on an octagonal shaft. The west n-indow of the
naA-e is filled with stained glass of verjHjeautiful execution
representing a Tree of Jesse, by C. E. Kempe, of London.
The church contains several memorials. Underneath the
tower arch, on brass plates mounted on an oaken tablet are
incised figures of a man and his two wives with three groups
of children underneath, the first consisting of four boys, the
second of 11 girls, and the third of a boy and two girls, and
the following inscription : " Of your charitie praye for the
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 201
sollys of Willyam Hyll ge'tilman and for Izabell and
Agnes his wyffys wich Wyllyam deceased the vi. daye of
December in the yeare of our Lorde God A. mcccccxlix on
whose sole Jhu have marcie Amen." At tlie east end of
the south aisle, on three oak panels, with coats of arms,
are these epitaphs :— " Thomas Dabridgecourte Esquire
departed this lyfe ye xii of May 1601 " ; " Alice
Dabridgecourte eldest sister and Coheire to Richard
Greswolde Esquire departed this lyfe the laste daye of
februarie Ano Dni 1599." At the east end of the north
aisle, on a brass plate are the figures of a man and his wife
with four sons and four daughters, and the following
inscription :
William Hawes, set 80. 1610. Ursula Coles, a^t 76.
Here William Hawes and Ursula, his wife,
Their bodyes lie, their soules with Christ in life.
Whose Holy Spii'it did so direct their wayes.
That in his feare they lived to aged dayes ;
In endlesse joy with Christ they now remaiue,
By whose blood all salvation due obtaine.
This William Hawes was probably the builder of Hillfield
Hall. On the west wall of the north transept is a
brass plate, removed from the nave, and bearing this in-
scription :— " This stone is not placed here to perpetuate
the memory of the Person interred beneath it, but to
preserve her Ashes sacred from Violation ; Therefore
" Good friend, for Jesu's sake forbear
To dig the dust inclosed here." 1746.
This verse is evidently transcribed from the inscription
on Shakespeare's grave. The north transept contains
several memorials to the Holbech family. In the Rectory
Garden is an interesting fragment of an early building, the
purposes of which cannot be determined.
The Grammar School, which was probably founded as
early as the reign of Richard II. and rebuilt in 1882,
numbered among its pupils the poets Shenstone (1714-1763)
and Jago (1715-1781). Dr. Samuel Johnson, then twenty-
six years of age, was in 1735 nominated for the post of
schoolmaster, but rejected by the Trustees because,
according to a letter from the Rector, " he has the caracter
of being a very haughty ill-natured gent : and y* he has
such a way oi distorting his fface (w'l though he cannot
help) y^ gent(lemen) think it may affect some young
ladds."
Three-quarters of a mile to the south of Solihull is
Hillfield Hall, a picturesque brick construction of the 16th
century covered with ivy, standing on a raised terrace
202 SHAKESPEAEES LAND.
approached by steps. The centre of the front terminates
in a stepped gable, flanked on each side by battlemented
turrets. Over the doo^^Yay of the left hand turret, -^'hich
forms the entrance to the house, is the following
inscription :—
Hie hospites
in caelo cives
H.
W. V.
1576.1
Over a mullioned bay window on the north east side are
the arms of the Greswolde family, who were subsequent
possessors of the property. The right hand turret contains
a newel staircase of 52 oak steps leading to a room which
occupies the whole length of the front. The interior has
been modernised but the dining room retains its oak
panelling.
About one mile and a half east of Solihull is Berry Hall,
a very picturesque and interesting old house though one
wing has been pulled down. It stands in a secluded spot
and is half hidden by fine trees. The house, which is
apparently of the loth century, is still surrounded on three
sides by a moat. With the exception of some obviously
modern brickwork, it is built entirely of oak framing filled
in with wattle work and plaster. The parts remaining are
of two stories, the upper floor carried by finely moulded
and carved oak beams. The timbers of the walls are very
wide and thin, an evidence of early work. The eastern
wing of the building, which is supposed to have contained
the great hall, was pulled down towards the end of the
last centiu-y. The porch, which has an overhanging gable
carried by two very fine brackets, was reconstructed about
1876. These brackets, which are alike, were found lying
loose in an upper room of the house and bear in raised
old English characters the motto, " I.H.S. Amor est mens,"
and a monogram which is possibly intended for T.A.W.,
Thomas and Alice Waring, the house having formerly been
a seat of the Warings. It cannot however with certainty
be said that the brackets belong to the house, they may
have come from the nunnery of Henwood when it was
destroyed.
1 "Here we are guests; in Heaven citizens." W. V. H., William and
Ui-sula Hawes.
I
ROUTE 14.— WARWICK TO KINGSWOOD Via HAMPTON
ON-THE-HILL AND PINLEY.
The road on quitting Warwick skirts the left side of the
race-course, and at two miles reaches the hamlet of
Hampton-on-tlie-Hill, a little beyond which is the lodge of
Grove Park, the seat of Lord Dormer. The Manor came
into the possession of Thomas de Beauchamp at the com-
mencement of the reign of Richard II., and the first Manor-
house was probably a lodge built by him in 1394. In 1566,
it was granted to Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who, in
1581 reconveyed it to Queen Elizabeth. In the reign of
James I. it became the property of the Hon. Anthony
Dormer, second son of Robert, first Baron Dormer. The
ancient mansion was a fine specimen of an old half-
timbered house, though it had been disfigured by being coated
with rough cast and covered with a turretted roof. It was
formerly surroimded by a moat, part of which still remains.
From the hall door a straight course led over a drawbridge
to the road from Hatton to Sherborne, which then ran
about one hundred yards in front of the house. This road
was turned and closed towards the end of the last century,
when the present deer park in front of the house was laid
out. The avenue from the house to the road was most
picturesque, being completely overgrown by clipped hazel,
which gave it a tunnel-like appearance. The present
mansion, which was completed in 1832, on the site of the
old house, stands on an eminence in a beautifully wooded
park of one hundred acres, containing a large sheet of
ornamental water at some distance in the foreground. The
park contains about eighty head of deer, which are said to
be the heaviest in Warwickshire. The house is not
architecturally noteworthy, but the internal fittings and
pictures have a high interest, and the views from the
windows, of Warwick and the surrounding country are
very fine. The spacious Entrance Hall contains the
following full-length portraits : — " Ann Sophia," daughter
of Philip, fourth Earl of Pembroke, married to Robert
Dormer, first Earl of Carnarvon, painted by Mrs. Beale
(1640) ; "John Thornborough," Bishop of Worcester (1552) ;
" Henry Viscount St. John," died 1742, aged 90, and his
204 SHAKESPEAEES LAND.
wife, "Viscountess St. John." At the upper end is a fine
old Renaissance chimney-piece of oak from Kenilworth
Castle. Among the curiosities in the hall are some old
chairs, dated loOl, a two-handed scolloped sword, a large
brass medallion portrait of the Emperor Charles V., and a
pair of old jack boots. The Dining Room to the north of the
hall is panelled in oak. and decorated with coats-of-arms
carved at regular intervals round the room. The mantel-
piece of oak is a very fine example of Renaissance work,
the over-mantel was brought from Eythorpe in Bucks, an
old family mansion of the Dormer family, demolished in
1810. Over the handsome old carved sideboard is a picture
of " Sir Cecil Bisshopp." and his sister " Mary" (1703-1739),
wife of John, seventh Lord Dormer. On the opposite wall
is the " Duchess of Feria'" (Jane Dormer^), in her widow's
dress, painted in 1572 at the age of 35. In the Library, on
the south side of the hall, is a handsome oak mantel-piece
■with a mirror in the upper portion. In this room is a
portrait on ivory of '• Robert Dormer," first Earl of
Carnarvon, killed at Xewbury in 16i3 : a fine portrait of
'•Charles,'' eighth Lord Dormer idied 1804), by Sir Joshua
Reynolds: and portraits of "Sir William Dugdale," the
antiquary- (1605-1686 1; and " John Hampden " (1594-1&43).
Isext is the Drawing Room with a handsome wooden
chimney-piece of the year 1610, painted and gilt. This
room contains a fine portrait, painted in 1558, of " Jane
Dormer."- Duchess of Feria, at the age of twenty, and
another of " Edward Somerset." fourth Earl of Worcester,
1621 (died 1628). painted by Gilbert Jackson. The
Boudoir, which is filled with beautiful bric-a-brac, contains
five charming pictures representing the Five Senses by
David Teniers. the younger, a curious old picture in an oak
frame of " Catherine Dormer." who married Lord St. John,
and died in 1614 ; and an old painting representing " Fair
Rosamond Clifford." In the Study is a portrait of "Sir
Michael Dormer," Lord Mayor of London (.1541), Holbein ;
and a curious miniature of " Charles Stuart " (the
young Pretender), made to conceal in the bottom of
a snuff-box. On the Staircase and in"^ther rooms
are the following noticeable portraits :—" Sir Fleetwood
Dormer" (1673). "Sir Cecil Bisshopp." "Sir Robert
Dormer." first Baron (1615', his daughter (1625^ ; " Elizabeth
Dormer," Countess of Shrewsbury, wife of George,
1 Maid of Honour to Qneen Mary, married to Don Gomez Suarez Conde
di Feria, and Ambassador of King Philip.
shakespkaef/s land. 205
fifteenth Earl ; "Dorothy Catesby, (ISIT) set 58 ; "Charles,"
second Earl of Carnarvon (died 1709) ; " George,"
fifteenth Earl of Shrewsbury (died 1787) ; "The Countess of
Shrewsbury,'" "Robert Dudley," Earl of Leicester (1532-
1688); "Erasmus" (1467-1536;. On the staircase is also a
seascape by Cl<iVude Lorraine, a fine example of that mastej.
Among the family plate are two curious and valuable
objects, an old salt silver gilt of the year 1555, and a
marriage cup of 1615.
The road to the south of the park is termed '■ Hell
Kitchen Lane."
Eesuming our route at four and a half miles, we come to
a private road on the left, which leads in a quarter of a
mile to the remains of the Priory of Pinley, a small
monastery founded by Robert de Pilardinton in the reign
of Henry I. The site, which covers about four acres, lies
in a sheltered hollow, and was surrounded by a moat, a
considerable part of which still remains. A picturesque
half-timbered farm house, coated with rough cast, and
bearing the date 1666 over the porch, seems to have been
built mainly out of the ruins. To the east of this is a
building used for farm purposes, which is conjectured to
have been the ancient church. A Norman string course
runs along the north wall, which is two and a half feet
thick, and contains the sills of two three-light windows.
The west wall contains a four-centred arched doorway of
the 15th centurj', with hood moulding supported by corbels.
Towards the east end of this building is an obtusely arched
doorway, also of the 15th century, with sculptured roses in
the spandrils, which is supposed to have led into the
revestry. A few other fragments lie about. Half a mile
further we reach Pinley Green, and at seven miles cross a
small tributary of the Alne by Lonesome Ford, probably so
called on account of its solitary situation in ancient times.
At eight miles we arrive on the left at a lane which leads
down in rather more than a quarter of a mile to the site of
Bushwood or Lapworth Hall, situated on a small stream in a
lonely valley, and memorable as the residence of the
Catesby family, who acquired it by marriage in the reign
of Henry VI. Robert Catesby, one of the Gunpowder
Conspirators, who was killed at Holbeach in Staffordshire,
was born here in 1573, and sold the estate to Sir Edward
Grevill, of Milcote. Part of the site of the ancient mansion
is now occupied by a farm house erected about 1708, which
evidently incorporates a chimney, a hearth, and a gable
belonging to the former dwelling. This latter must have
206 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
been of considerable extent, as the space within the moat,
which still partly surrounds the present house, measures
180ft. by 150ft. Outside the moat, near the former position
of the drawbridge, is a fragment of a half-timbered out-
building, which looks as if it had formed part of the stabling,
and south of the house is the old bowling green, covering
about three-quarters of an acre. About half a mile higher
up the stream is an island known as " Guy Fawkes "
island, and about a mile below the house a mill formerly
existed in which tradition says the Gunpowder Plot was
originally concocted.
Regaining the road again, we come to a farm called High
Chimneys, so termed from its two picturesque stacks of
chimneys. At eight and a half miles a lane on the right
leads to Kowington (one mile). A quarter of a mile further
is Brome Hall, a farm house containing some ancient oak
panelling and extensive remains of old pleasure grounds,
and at nine and a half miles we arrive at Kingswood Station.
EOUTE 15. — WAEWICK TO BADDESLEY CLINTON
Via ROWINGTON.
Taking the Birmingham road from Warwick, in one mile
and a halt we reach the southern extremity of the old
Park of Wedgnock, one of the most ancient in England,
originally emparked by Henry de Newburgh, first Earl of
Warwick, after the Conquest. At that time it contained
no more than the part known as the Old Park ; it was
subsequently enlarged at the end of the reign of Edward
III. by Thomas de Beauchamp, and eventually covered an
area of 2,760 acres, or over four square miles. In the I7th
century it was divided into ten farms, leaving only about
50 acres of the original Deer Park which is still stocked
with deer. On the left a road leads to the village of
Budbrook (half a mile). The church consists of a square
embattled western tower with crocketted pinnacles, a nave
with modern transepts and a chancel. The tower, which
is picturesquely covered with ivy, was erected about 1688
The nave is Norman with subsequent alterations ; on the
north side is a doorway, now blocked up, ornamented with
billet mouldings. The chancel, which is of the 13th
century, is lighted by three narrow single light lancet
windows, splayed in the interior. On the south side of
the altar is a large mural monument with Corinthian
pilasters to Rowland, Lord Dormer, died September 27th,
1712. Barracks were erected here in 1877 which serve for
the depot of the Royal Warwickshire Regiment.
Returning to the high road, at two miles we reach the
•entrance to the County Lunatic Asylum, opened in 1852, and
occupying an elevated position in the midst of spacious
and well kept grounds. It is a well designed structure of
brick, the average number of patients being about 650,
composed of about 290 males ancl 360 females.
About one mile and a half up Beausale Lane on the
right, on a farm called Bull Oak, was the famous tree of that
name, formerly standing in Wedgnock Park. It had become
hollow, and was destroyed about 1870 by the act of some
mischievous boys who had lighted a fire in it.
Resuming our route, in half a mile the road branches off
to Eowington (five and a half miles). The Church, dedicated
208 shakespeaee's land.
to St. Lawrence, is singularly arranged. It consists of a
nave with aisles, an embattled tower rising out of the naA^e
near the east end, and beyond which the nave is continued, a
shallow transept on the south side of the tower, a chancel
and a chantry chapel. Outside of the north doorway
on the east side is the remnant of a stoup. The nave
opens to the aisles, which are extraordinarily narrow, by
two hne Decorated arches on each side. The rood loft of
the 14th century, has a stone staircase springing from the
north pier of the chancel arch, and a parclose or wooden
screen of the same period separates the chancel from the
chantry chapel on the north side. Under the south-east
window of the chancel is a plain stone sedilia. The
Communion table, covered with a cloth, is of oak of the
Elizabethan period, and has handsomely carved bulging
legs. The 1-ith century pulpit is of stone, carved in panels,
and the font of the 13th century is of red sandstone, plain
and circular in form. In the second bay of the south aisle
is a curious old oak chest of rude construction, encircled
by three iron bands secured in locks. To the north of the
altar is a mural tablet contained between columns to the
memory of John WoUaston, died 1615. On the floor in
front of the altar is an incised alabaster slab,^ with the
figures of a man and a woman in costumes of the reign
01 Elizabeth, having eight small female figures at their
feet. The east window and one on the south side of the
chancel contain figures of saints, ably executed by Burlisson
and Grylls.
Half a mile further on Rowington Green, near the Mill, is
Shakespeare Hall, a fine half timbered gabled house, said,
but without proof, to have been the residence of Thomas
Shakespeare, a brother of John Shakespeare, and uncle of
the poet.
Rather more than half a mile further, a road turns off to
the left leading to the Church of Baddesley Clinton (seven
and a half miles), a small building consisting of nave and
chancel, with an embattled west tower, standing in the
midst of lofty trees. The nave appears to have been
originally constructed in the 13th centurj^ the walls were
raised 10ft., and the present clerestory windows inserted
between the years 1496 and 1508 by Nicholas Brome, lord
of the manor, who, according to Dugdale, also built the
tower under the following circumstances : " Comming on a
1 It is supposed to be of the year 155S, and to commemorate either John
Oldwell aud his wife or John Hill and his wife.
shakespeare"s land. 209
time into his Parlour here at Badsley, he found the Parish-
Priest chocking his wife under thf chin, whereat he was so
enraged that he presently kil'd him ; For which offence,
obtaining the King's Pardon, and the Popes, he was
enjoyn'd to do something towards the expiation thereof ;
whereupon he new built the Towre-steeple here at Badsley,
from the ground, and bought three Bells for it ; and raised
the body of the Church ten foot higher : all which was
exprest in his Epitaph, now torn away." On the south
wall is the following inscription : — " Nicholas Brome,
Esquire, Lord of Baddesley, did new build this steeple in
the raigne of Kinge Henry the Seaventh. He died in
October, 1617." According to the record he is buried
" under ye blew marble stone at ye entrance into the
church at ye door " (i.e., in the tower). The chancel was
rebuilt in 1634: by Edward Ferrers, lord of the manor, of
which the following record appears on a stone over the
south door: — "Edward Ferrers, Esqvire, sonne & heire of
Henry Ferrers, Esqvire, & Jane White his "wdfe, did new
builde and reedifte this chauncel at his owne proper costes
& charges. Ano. Domi., 1634. This chvrch is dedicated to
Sainte .James." On the tablet is also a shield with the
arms of Ferrers impaling Peyto. On the south side of the
chancel, under an arched canopy, is a high tomb of rich
workmanship with the accompanying inscription : — " Here
lyeth Sir Edward Ferrers, knighte, sonne and heire of Sir
Henry Ferrers and Margaret Hekstall his wife, of East
Peckham, in the county of Kente, Knighte. He died the
xxixth day of August, 1535, leaving issue, Henry, Edward,
George, and Nicholas. Here also lieth Dame Constance, his
wife, daughter and heire to Nicholas Brome, Esq. of this
mannour of Badsley Clinton, who died the xxxth day of
September, 1551. Here also lieth Henry Ferrers, theire
eldest sonne and heire, who married Katherine, daughter
and one of the co-heires of Sir John Hampden, of Hampden,
in the countie of Buck., He died Ano. Dom. 1526, leaviuge
issue, Edward Ferrers, married to Briget, daughter to
William, Lord Windsor, of Bradenha, 1548, and died Ano.
Domi., 1564." The following runs round the verge : — " Ecce
hie in pulvere dormimus. Hie nostras recidit gloria carnis.
Disce mori mundo, vivere disce Deo. Hodie nobis eras
vobis.^ On the face of the tomb and on the arch above are
shields of arms denoting alliances of the Ferrers of
1 Behold, here we sleep in the dust. Here fades away the vain glory of
our flesh. Learn to die for the world, learn to live for God. To-day for
us, to-morrow for you.
210 SHAKESPEARE'S LAXD.
Baddesley, A\-ith the families of Brome, Hampden, Windsor,
and Whyte. In the centre of the floor of the chancel is a
marble slab recording the burial there of twelve generations
of the Ferrers family, the antiquarian Henry Ferrers,^ ■vrho
died in 1633, aged 84, being buried at the head of the stone.
The east window contains some ancient and beautiful
glass. In the centre light is a representation of the
Crucifixion, on the north are figures of Sir Edward Ferrers
and his wife kneeling at a praying desk, with missals in
front of them, and the remaining lights are filled with
shields of arms and some mutilated figures ; the principal
shield is that of Sir Edward and his wife, Constantia
Brome, with 32 quarterings. Beneath the tower arch is a
heavy Jacobean screen of oak. On the south side of the
church is a large and aged yew. The wood to the east,
260 acres in extent, and termed Hay Wood, is a remnant of
the ancient Forest of Arden. It contains some remarkably
fine trees, and is noted as the habitat of the lily of the
valley.
From hence a pathway through a belt of wood leads down
a gentle declivity to Baddesley CUnton Hall, the seat of
Mrs. Rebecca Dulcibella Dering, a remarkably interesting
specimen of an old fortified manorial residence of the loth
century, situated in a secluded position in a fine well-
timbered park. The Manor appears in ancient times to
have undergone several changes of ownership. From the
middle of the 13th to the middle of the 14th century, it
belonged to the Clinton family of Coleshill. In 149ti, it
became the property of Nicholas Brome. a lawv^er. at whose
death in 1517 it passed to his daughter and co-heiress
Constantia, who was married in 1497 to Sir Edward Ferrers,
grandson of William Lord Ferrers, of Groby, and in this family
it has ever since remained. The present owner has been
twice married ; her former husband being Marmion Edward
Ferrers, Esq., the antiquarian, through whom she derived
the estates ; her second husband was Edivai-d Heneage
Dering, Esq.. who died suddenly Novemlier 22nd, 1892.
The mansion, which is a stone structure of low
elevation with fluted and grooved chimneys, is sur-
rounded by a moat eight or nine feet in depth
and of considerable width, and is approached by a
brick bridge of two arches, probably built in the reign of
Queen Anne, which replaces the old drawbridge. The
1 Mr. Hepworth Dixon, iu ''Her Majesty's Tower." represents him as
owning a house adjoining the Parliament Chamber, which was sold to one
of the Gtinpowder Conspirators. This is altogether enoneous, the name of
the owner of this propertj- was " Ferris."
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 211
building forms three sides of a square, the fourth side on
the north-west, now enclosed by a low wall, having
evidently been pulled down at a remote fjeriod, its former
existence being attested by the abrupt termination of the
adjoining string course, and the presence of several brick
buttresses on this side. The entrance to the Courtyard is on
the north-east side through an archway underneath a fine
embattled tower, which projects from the main building,
and contains in the upper stage a handsome hall panelled
in oak, and lighted by a large window of five lights,
divided by a transom. The portal arch is of later date
than the tower and the northern part of the house, and is
probably a construction of the 16th centurj-. The Gateway
is pierced with loopholes for the defence of the drawbridge
and the archway is closed by a massive old oak door of the
15th century, containing a wicket and strengthened by
strong bolts and bars. On the right are two doors, the first
of these conducts to the large hall above, and the other leads
down to the cellar. The upper story of the inner court is
half timbered and gabled. On the left hand side of the
court is the entrance of the mansion, which opens on an
ante room leading to the Great Hall. This hall is oak
panelled, and contains a very handsome English Kenais-
sance fireplace of carved stone, constructed about 1634, and
ornamented with seven shields of family arms painted on
the stone work. The first and largest of these occupies the
centre panel, and the last shield commemorates the
marriage of Edward Ferrers and Anne Peyto in 1611. The
great feature of the room, as of the other parts of the
house, is however the heraldic devices of the 16th and 17th
centuries which adorn the windows, fourteen shields being
depicted here. The walls are hung with several good
family portraits. The hall also contains an old 17th
centurj'^ cabinet, the front divided into twenty small panels,
each painted with groups of satyrs, cupids, or nymphs ; a
large and richly carved Flemish chest, with the date 1658 ;
a very large oak table, 21ft. long, 2ft. Sin. wide, and 2in.
thick, made of two planks only ; several dower chests ; a
curious twisted horn of great age, said to have been
presented about the year 1400 to Lord de Ferrers by the
French ambassador at the Court of Henry IV ; a leather
bottle holding about a gallon, discovered in the moat some
years ago, and an old Cromwellian coat of buff leather. On
the left of the hall on the north-east side of the house is
the Drawing Room, which is panelled with oak, with seats
of the same material in the recesses of the windows. It
contains a large carved oak fireplace, ornamented with the
212 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
arms of Ferrers, of Groby, and a tine portrait of Sir Walter
Ealeigh, attributed to Marc Garrard. On the right is the
Dining Room, containing an elaborately carved fireplace,
dated 1628, and divided into three panels by massive
pilasters. In the centre is a shield with the arms of
Ferrers quartering Whyte. In the southern angle of the
hall a staircase leads to an enclosed Gallery, which runs
round the inner part of the three sides of the building, and
gives access to the rooms in the upper story. In the
window on the Staircase are two very old shields of arms,
one of wliich has the following inscription : — " Henrie
Ferrers did marrie Kathrine Hamdon, the daughter and
hyer of John Hamdon, Knight, Anno dno. 1560." On the
left of the staircase is the State Bedroom, which contains a
very fine chimney-piece elaborately carved in oak and
reaching to the ceiling. In the centre is a shield of arms,
quartering Ferrers of Groby and Hampden, with an
escutcheon of pretence charged with the arms of Whyte,
and on each side the family badge of the horse shoe with
the shields of Groby and Wh>-te in the spandrils. This
room like most of the others is oak panelled. From lftie
Sacristy next to the oratorj' or domestic chapel in the
south-west angle of the house, there was formerly a well
staircase leading to a passage in the basement. This
passage, which still exists, gradually narrows and passes
beneath the moat, and doubtless in former times formed a
means of secret egress when the house was beset. In the
Chapel are preserved a curious little sanctus bell of Flemish
origin, bearing the date 1555, and inscribed ihesvs es
MiNEN naem, and a small incised brass effigy of a female,
supposed to represent the wife or daughter of Nicholas
Brome, and to have been brought from the church. The
Banqnetting Hall, which occupies the space over the gate-
way, is a fine room lighted by a large mullioned window,
and containing remnants of ancient oak carving and
panelling. The high pitched roof of open timber is now
unfortunately covered by a plaster ceiling. Next to this is
a room traditionally known as the " Ghost Room," and now
used as a librarj'. It seems probable that the oak panelling
and most of the carved oak mantels in the house were
constructed by Edward Ferrers, son of " the Antiquary,"
somewhere about the year 1634. The views from the upper
story looking into the ivy-covered court with its
picturesque flower beds are very charming.
PYom hence a lane leads via Netherwood Heath, in two
miles to the Birmingham road at a point three miles south
of Kaowle.
«
ROUTE 16.— WARWICK TO TEMPLE BALSALL via
HATTON AND WROXALL.
Quitting Warwick by the Birmingham road at two and
lihree-quarter miles on the right we reach Hatton Church
which consists of a chancel, nave, aisles, north porch, and
an embattled western tower. This latter is the only
remaining ancient feature of the church, and is a fine
example of 15th century work containing a handsome
Perpendicular window of six lights, the remainder of the
church, which is built to correspond with the tower, was
erected between the years 1876-80, and replaces a patch-
work structure of dilapidated character. Adjoining the
■tower is a marble tomb commemorating Mr. William
Edioards (1662-1723), the founder of free schools at
Xenilworth and Hatton, and former owner of Guy's Cliff ;
and his wife Mary, who died in 1756, aged 82. The font is of
the 12th century on a modern base. Di-. Samuel Parr (1747-
1825), the eminent Greek scholar, was vicar of this church
from 1783 to 1825. He was an ardent companologiet, and
cast or recast the whole of the six bells in the tower
and frequently practised upon them himself. He died
•here March 6th, 1825, and is commemorated by a mural
tablet in the church. The communion plate here is of a
very interesting character. It consists of a tankard
ilagon with the H.M. of 1739, a plate of 1669, and two very
handsome large silver candlesticks of 1696, all the gift of
Mrs. Jane Norcliffe in 1745 ; a cup and cover given by Dr.
Parr, together with a large ilagon probably originally
intended for a coffee pot, and a large alms dish having the
appearance of a rose water dish of French origin.
A quarter of a mile further on a branch road to the right
is the church of Haseley, which consists of an embattled
western tower with nave and chancel. The tower appears
to be of the early part of the 15th century, and contains, in
the west window, some interesting fragments of ancient
painted glass. The nave was probably built in the 16th
century by Clement Throckmorton, but retains a south
doorway of the 13th century, and the east wall of the
■chancel was reconstructed in 1753. A projection built out
on the south-east side of the chancel, contains the high tomb
214 shakespeaee's land.
of Clement Throckmorton, with inlaid brass effigies^ of
himself and his wife with thirteen children. He is
represented bareheaded clad in armour. The wife is
attired in a highbodied gown, the skirts of which are open
disclosing a brocaded kirtle. On her head is a close
fitting bonnet, and a breviary is suspended from the waist.
Under the husband are six small male children, and under
the wife seven females. On a brass plate running round the
verge of the slab is the following inscription " Here lieth
the bodye of Cleme(nt Throkmorton) Esquier the third
Sonne of Sr. George Throkmorton Knyght and Katherin
Nevell his wyffe the firste and eldest daughter of Sr.
Edward Nevell Knight of whom he begate sj'xe sonnes
seven daughters he departed this world the Sondaye being
the xiiii of December in the yere of our Lord God
MCCCCC seventye & three and in the syxtene yere of the
raigne of our most gracious sufferaigne ladye queue
Elizabeth." The font is of the 15th century on a modern
base.
The Manor of Haseley at the time of the Conquest
was possessed by Hasculf Musard, from whom it passed to
the family of Hastang, of Leamington Hastings, and thence
in the reign of Richard I. through one William Turpin, to
Eoger, son of Thurstane de Cherlecote. Thomas, the son
of Roger, was in 1263 strangled by three of his own
servants, two men and a woman, and his body was thrown
into the pool now known as Fletcher's Hole. As it was at
first believed that he had committed siucide, his effects
were seized for the King, but on the subsequent discovery
of the facts of the murder, restitution was made to his
heirs, and the murderers were executed. In 1302, the
estate passed to Guy de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, and
remained in the Warwick family until 1488. In 1553 the
Manor was granted by the Queen to Clement Throckmorton,
third son of Sir George Throckmorton, of Coughton, in
whose family it remained until 1725. It is now the
property of Alfred Hewlett, Esq., who has re-built the
Manor House in the Tudor-Elizabethan style. A portion
of the Old Manor House, a half-timbered construction
coated with rough cast still exists in the park of
Haseley Manor in a valley about a third of a mile
from the church to the east of the ancient mill pool.
Part of this building is of the time of George I.,
1 a portion of this brass has been recently hinged in consequence of the
discovery of engraved work on the reverse side, suggesting that it formerly
formed part of some other monument.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 215
but the porch ■u'as built by Clement Throckmorton.
This porch is flanked by Ionic pilasters, and over
the hall door is a Latin versicle, with the date 1561. In
the left spandril of the arch is a true lover's knot, with the
ititials C.T., for Clement Thi-ockmorton, and an olive
branch with six shoots, indicative of the number of his
sons. In the other spandril is another true lover's knot,
with the initials K.T., for Katherine Throckmorton, his
wife, and an olive branch with seven shoots, indicative
of the number of her daughters. Haseley furnishes the
town of Warwick with water by means of Avorks con-
structed in 1876 ; the water flows "by gravitation, the door
sill of the rectory being said to be level with the roof of
St. Mary's Church at Warwick.
Two miles and a half north-east is Honiley, containing
a very small semi-classical church with tower and spire,
built in 1723, and of no architectural interest.
Returning to the high road, we resume our route to
Wroxall, the spires of Coventry becoming conspicuous in
the distance on the right. At five miles we reach the
entrance to the grounds of Wroxall Abbey. The foundation
of this Abbey is attributed to a curious miracle. In the
12th century the lordship was held by Hugh de Hatton,
who was taken prisoner in the Holy Land, and kept in
close captivity. He prayed for deliverance, and St.
Leonard appeared to him one night in a vision, and com-
manded him to found a Benedictine nunnery. The vision
being repeated, he vowed to comply with the command if
his prayer was granted. As a result he was instantly
transported, still in chains, to Wroxall, where he met with
his wife, who in consequence of his uncouth appearance
could not recognise him until he shewed her part of a ring
which had been broken between them. In response to
prayer, the spot on which the nunnery was to be erected
was pointed out, and its foundation is stated to have taken
place in 1141, and the ring and a portion of the fetters
were afterwards shown as relics. In the reign of Edward
I., the conventual church was either rebuilt or greatly
enlarged, and was consecrated in 1315. At the dissolution
the site of the Priory was granted to Eobert Burgoyne and
John Scudamore, and continued in the Burgoyne family
until 1713, when the property was purchased by Sir
Christopher Wren, who occasionally resided here. It
remained in the possession of the descendants of Sir
Christopher until the year 1861, when the old house with
nearly 2,000 acres of land was acquired for £93,000 by the
216 shakespeaee's land.
late James Dugdale, Esq., whose successor is his son, J.
BroUj/hton Diujdale, Esq. From the entrance a pretty avenue
bordered by elms conducts us to the ancient garden walls,
which are said to have been built by Sir Christopher Wren,
and are of curious construction. In front of us stands the
house, a fine mansion in the Tudor style built in 1864 tO'
replaced the former residence, which was chiefly erected
in the reign of Elizabeth, and had become very much
dilapidated. The present building occupies a site slightly
more westward than the old mansion, and the front faces
eastward instead of westward as in the previous case.
In the gardens to the left of the avenue are the remains of
the old Priory. Nearest to the roadway is the roofless
Chapter House, about I6ft. square, containing six bearing
shafts designed to carry a stone groined roof which was
never constructed. Human bones, probably those of
Prioresses interred in the Chapter house were discovered
beneath the surface about the year 1850, and some frag-
ments of lids of stone coffins, are still preserved in it. A
little further on are some remains of the old walls of the
Eefectory. As far as can be traced the walls of the Priory,
which was probably never completed, extended in a direct
line from the church to the east side of the Refectory,
whence they continued westwards to a point a little beyond
the level of the tower of the church. In the house is a very
fine collection of modern pictures.
Dining Koom.— Pictures : *" Entrance to the Wood," T. Crcmoick : " Dutch-
Vessels," £. W. Cooke, R.A. ; "Children, Gleaners and Stile," F. Goodall,
R.A. ; " Magdalen at the Foot of the Cross," /. R. Herbert, R.A. : "Cottage.
Boy and Wheelbarrow," W. Dyce, R.A. ; " The Trial of the Witch," W. P.
Frith, R.A.^ ; "Highland Mary," T. Feud, R.A.,- ""Death of Queen
Katharine," C. R. Leslie, R.A. ; " Girls at a Spring," P. F. Poole, R.A. ;
" Deerhounds," R. Ansdeli, R.A.: "Welsh Mountain Scene," T. Creswick,.
R. A. {fiipires hy Ansdell); "Venice," W. Tf'i/ld ; " Dutch Fisherwomen on
the Beach," E. Duncan: *" The Sand Hill," J. Linnell; "Two Girls
dressing," C. Baxter: *" Irish Group Dancing a Jig," E. Nicol, A.R.A. ;
"Road through Woodland Scenery," P. Nasmith: "Spanish Ladies on
the Alameda," /. Phillip, R.A, : " Landscape," W. Muller : " Going to
School," T. Wcbsttr, R.A. : "Greek Fugitives," Sir C. E. Eastlake, P.R.A.:
" River Landscape," F. R. Lee, R.A. : " Italian Girl," J. E. Millais, R.A. :
*" Taming of the Shrew," C. R. Leslie, R.A. ; *" The Fallen Monarch," /.
Linnell: " A Windy T)a.y," David Cox: "Castle on the Coast," seascape,
C. Stanfield, R.A. : "Sheep, Hovel and Donkey," T. S. Cooper, R.A. :
" Dutch Coast," seascape, C. Stanfield, R.A. : "Musical Rehearsal," David
Bles: *" Scotch Shelling with a Woman reading the Bible," R. Ansdeli:
"By the side of a Wood," If". Collins, R.A. : "Life of Buckingham,"
A. L. Egg, R.A. : " Death of Buckingham," A. L. Egg, R.A. ,- " Vicar of
Wakefield's Daughter," C. Ba.i-ter : "A Girl feeding a Dog," T. Webster,
1 The history of this picture is given in Mr. Frith's Autobiography,
vol. 1, chapters 13 and 21.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 217
JI.A. ; " Seaooast," C. Stanlicld R.A. : " Coliimbus and the Egg," C. R. Leslie,
Ji.A. : " The Lost Shilling," F. D. Hardy : " Head of a Girl," O'Neil ; and
pictures by A. Solomon and Siguoli.
Drawing Room. — This room contains tlie following beautiful series of
water-colour pictures : — " LancLscape," C. FUlding ; "Lost in the
Woods," E. G. Warren: "Interior of a Cathedral," D. Roberts, R.A.:
"King Lear," G. Cattermole : "Zouave relating Adventures," F. IF.
Topham ; " Landscape," David Cox ; *" Marriage of Strongbow and Eva,"
Sir C. E. Eastlake, P.R.A. : "Highland Drovers and Cattle," F. Tayler ;
"Classical Landscape, Sunset," G. Barrett: "Seascape," E. Duncan:
" River Scene," David Cox : " Seaweed Gatherers : Carts crossing a Stream,"
E. Duncan: *" Landscape with Sheep," /. Linnell; "Partridges," W.
Hunt: "Spanish Beggars with Guitar," F. IV. Topham: "Man and
Child at Venice," F. Goodall, R.A. : " Return of Grandpapa," W.
Goodall : *" Cattle and Sheep," T. S. Cooper, R.A. : "Landscape," Birket
Foster: "Nest and Eggs," W. Hunt; *" Sheep," T. S. Cooper, R.A;
*" Landscape and Sheep, Glen Rosa Arran," W. Dyce : *"Tomb at
Verona," S. Prout : "Harvest Home," F. Goodall, R.A. ; "Fruit," W.
Hunt: *" Ehrenbreitstein on the Rhine," X M. W. Turner, R.A. : *"At
-the Well at Cairo," L. Haglie : "Bridge over River," P. de Wint ;
" Interior at Haddon Hall," CarZ Werner; " Sea and Ship," G. Chambers;
" On the Thames," /. Varley : "Venice," IF. Wyld : "Daughter of the
Duke of Argyll," a sketch, T. Tayler: " Sunset," G. Barrett: "Venice,"
E. W. Cooke, A. R.A. A lovely piece of old Spanish embroidery, probably
at one time belonging to a church, hangs on a screen in the room.
In the Hall is a fine picture: " Jacob and Rachel," by Ary Scheffer,
"Et Jacob baisa Rachel et elevant sa voix il pleura."
In the Billiard Room are eight very interesting repro-
ductions in wax of old English country scenes, framed as
pictures, which are remarkable alike for their modelling,
grouping, colouring, and individualisation. On the upper
floor is a very fine carved oak bedstead, bearing the date
1551. In the gardens to the south of the mansion is a
■small ornamental lake, frequented by wild fowl.
Standing in the grounds in front of the mansion is the
Clmrcli, the body of which consists of one continuous bay
without a division ; the explanation of this probably is that
the nave only of the church was constructed, the design for
the whole being never completed. The tower, which is of
bripk and embattled, is a work of the 17th century. The
north side of the building is lighted by five Decorated
windows, each of three lights. Tlie most easterly window
•on the south side is a reconstruction of the 16th century.
Underneath this window are the remains of a piscina,
while a plain stone seat represents the sedilia. The east
window of five lights is Perpendicular, beneath it is a
tasteful modern reredos of red sandstone, with carved figures
of Christ and the Apostles. The windows retain some
interesting remains of ancient painted glass. The eastern-
most window on the north side contains pattern glazing,
composed of white glass with oak leaves and acorns
outlined in black. In it are also two small figures, one of
218 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
a kneeling saint with a nimbus round the head, the other
of a kneeling female in a yellow gown. The third window
contains a figure of St. Benedict, and also kneeling figures-
of a nun in a black mantle, and of a man in a blue gown.
The belfry window contains the shield of Kichard IS'evile,
Earl of Warwick. On the south wall, removed from the
east end, is a mural monument to the memory of Lady-
Anna Burgoyne, who died 1693. On the north wall is an
incised brass eflBgy of a lady unknown, clad in the costume
of the early part of the 15th century. In a field next the
road, facing the former entrance to the Abbey, are a pair of
old stocks.
From hence, continuing along the Birmingham road, at
seven miles we reach Chadwick End, from whence a by-road
on the right leads, via Park Corner (eight miles) to Temple
Balsall (nine miles). The lordship of Balsall was given to
the Knights Templars in the reign of Henry III. by Koger
de Moubray, "whereupon erecting a Church fit for their
service of God, and a house for habitation, they sent part of
their fraternity hither, and made it a Preceptorie or Cell,
subordinate to their principall mansion — viz., the Temple in
London. Unto which Preceptorie were also divers lands of
good value afterwards given, by sundry persons of qualitie."
Upon the suppression and imprisonment of the Templars by
Edward II. in 1307, the property reverted to the family of
the donor, but in 1312, by a decree of Pope Clement V. the
possessions of the order, were transferred to the Knights
Hospitallers. It does not seem that these knights resided
here like the Templars did, as it appears in the time of
Edward IV. that they had appointed a farmer of the
Preceptory who lived there. After the dissolution this
manor was assigned for the dowry of Queen Katherine
Parr. It was afterwards granted to Edward, Duke of
Somerset, and subsequently to John Dudley, Earl .of
Warwick. In the reign of Elizabeth it was given by letters
patent from the Queen to Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester
and his heirs, and descended to his granddaughter. Lady
Catherine Leveson (wife of Sir Richard Leveson, of
Trentham, and daughter of Sir Robert Dudley), who
bequeathed the whole of the estate to trustees for the
purpose of founding a hospital "as near the church as
conveniently might be, for twenty poor persons, being
widows, and poor women not married of good lives and
conversations." The value of the property having greatly
increased, the number of almspeople has from time to time
been augmented. The Hospital is a brick building of two
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 219
stories, covering three sides of a quadrangle, the north side
forming the master's house. The Master of the Hospital is
also Vicar of the church. The glory of the place is the
beautiful Church, of the 13th century, which adjoins the
west side of the Hospital, and forms in plan a parallelogram
lOlft. in length internally and SO^ft. in breadth. On the
exterior of the west window are several heads curiously
carved in stone, and a corbel table, which seems to
have supported the roof of some adjoining building.
The south porch or parvise containing the priest's chamber
has wholly disappeared, but the foundations of it have
been traced for some 30ft. The octagonal turret at the
south-west corner of the church is a curious and noticeable
feature ; the upper part of it was rebuilt in its present form
in 1849, being previously a clumsy reparation out of
harmony with the building. The interior of the church,
which has no division of any kind, is strikingly beautiful.
The two most easterly windows on the north side are higher
than the others, and the difference of level probably helped
to indicate the distinction between the chancel and the
nave, in addition to which a screen formerly extended across
the church on a level with the present pulpit. There are
three windows on each side alternately of three and four
lights. With the exception of two on the north side, which
resemble one another, all the windows are of different
patterns, the varied tracery in the heads being of great
beauty, taking very much the form of miniature wheel
windows. On the south side the most westerly window in
the chancel is lychnoscopic. The church gradually rises in
four stages to the altar, evidently for processional purposes,
the altar itself being approached by a further elevation of
three steps. The west window of five lights filled with
stained glass has a fine effect, above it is a beautiful wheel
window of twelve compartments. On the south side
towards the west end is a canopied niche, which probably
at one time contained the effigy of the patron saint of the
church. The east window of five lights is remarkably
handsome and lofty ; over it is a smaller window. On the
south side of the altar are a piscina and a sedilia of very
great beauty, the capitals, arches and finials being
-exquisitely carved. The octagonal stone pulpit and the
font are modern. The church was restored soon after the
restoration of Charles II., and again in 1849.
At a little distance south west of the church is a brick
building, now divided into tenements, which was probably
the Refectory of the Knights Templars. The roof was
220
SHAKESPEAKE S LAND.
formerly supported by octagonal wooden pillars, four of
which still remain, built into the partitions of the tenements.
At the west end is a small room ornamented with coats of
arms removed from the church and now used for the
purpose of holding Courts Leet. The old chimney of the
building is still standing. From hence a road leads in two
miles to Knowle.
EOUTE 17— KENILAYORTH TO MERIDEN Via
BERKSWELL.
Leaving- Kenilworth by the Birmingham road, at three-
quarters of a mile from the Castle we turn to the right up
Red Lane, and at five miles reach the Village of BerkswelL
In the centre of it is the village green, an equal sided
square with the stocks in the middle and a magnificent
ancient and decaying elm at each of the angles. A little
further on near ttie gate of the Vicarage is a copious spring
flowing at the rate of 130 gallons a minute and enclosed in
a rectangular stone tank, 17ft. square and 4ft. deep, from
which most of the families of the village get their supply
of water, which has a great reputation for purity. The
Vicarage is a picturesque Jacobean structure with gabled
wings, clothed in front with ivy and Virginia creeper.
Adjoining it in an elevated position is the Church, which
consists of a chancel, nave, north and south aisles, western
tower, south porch, and a Norman crypt. The chancel is of
the 12th century, the west end of the north aisle is of the
13th, and the remaining part of it, which extends to the
middle of the length of the chancel, is of the 15th century,
the eastern end having probably formed a chantry chapel.
The south aisle is of the 14th century with some additions
of the 15th, and the clerestory, the tower and the south porch
are of the 17th century. The chancel is a very interesting
and rare example of the architecture of the 12th century.
At the east end are five Norman windows in two tiers, and
at the angles of the wall are Norman half columns serving
as buttresses, very unusual in England though common on
the Continent. Underneath the roof on the south side is a
row of extremely curious and grotesque corbel heads. The
south porch is a very picturesque half timbered erection of
the early part of the 17th century, coated with rough cast
and having an overhanging upper storey which contains
the vestry. The porch is lighted on each side by open oak
panels with trefoil heads, and the entrance to the vestry is
by a stone staircase underneath a pentice on the west side.
The south doorivay is Norman Init has been mutilated to fit
it to the porch. The door, which is probably of the 14th
:222 Shakespeare's land.
century, is a fine and massive panelled construction of oak
opening in two hinged folds with a wicket in the outward
fold. The tower is of two stages of massive construction,
having walls 4ft. thick, and probably replaces a Norman
structure, the proportions of which have in some respects
been followed. On the south face is a wooden sundial.
In the interior the church rises to the chancel in three
stages, probably for processional purposes. Two of the
bays on the north side and all the bays on the south side
still contain galleries, the vestry opening into one of the
latter.^ The arches of the three lower Norman windows at
the east end have a continuous arcade above terminating in
grotesque heads, and the capitals of the columns are carved
with stiff conventional foliage. The clerestory is formed of
small splayed dormer windows in the roof of the aisles.
Both aisles in their whole length, as well as the chantry
chapel, appear to have been anciently divided from the nave
by oak screens of the 15th century. These have however
been greatly curtailed at different times and now exist
only between the eastern arch on the north and the
two easternmost arches on the south. The portion on the
north is ornamented with a scroll of vine leaves and
grapes interspersed with roses, that on the south is similar
but more elaborate in parts. At the east end of the south
aisle is a trefoil headed piscina, and on the sills of the two
south windows are chained three volumes of " Foxe's Book
of Martyrs," of the ye'ar 1570.^ The crypt under the
chancel and eastern part of the nave is a very interesting
and remarkable structure, probably intended for the
resting place of a saint or martyr, to which devotions
Tvere paid. There were formerly staircases, now blocked,
communicating on each side with the body of the church,
and evidently designed to facilitate the ingress and egress of
1 The somewhat intricate approach to the vestry through the gallery
was pi'oductive of an amusing contretemps some years ago. During
the temporary absence of the Rector a clergyman took his place
whose custom it was to preach in a Geneva gown. On the first Sunday on
which he officiated he ascended to the vestry at the conclusion of the
prayers for the purpose of exchanging his surplice for the gown. Having
done so he started for the pulpit, but missed his way in the gallery, and
for a time wandered helplessly up and down. Meantime the choir had
reached the final verse of the hymn, which appositely ended with the
words "With humble faith we wait To see His face again," and this, to
the subdued amusement of the congregation, had to be repeated to allow
the clergyman time to reach the piUpit.
2 An item of 2d. occurs in the Churchwardens' accounts, in 1610, for
""linckes and staples for the bookes," and in 1727 £1 Is. ajjpears to have
•been paid for binding them.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 223-
those visiting the shrine. The present entrance has been
made by the conversion of a window at the east end of tha
south aisle. The structure consists of two parts, both of
which are groined. The western portion under the nave is
an irregular octagon connected with the eastern by a fine
semi-circular arch. In the centre of the vault is a hole
from which the chain of a lamp probably depended. The
eastern part is lighted by small widely splayed semi-
circular headed windows, and is now unfortimately used aa
a family vault. The vestry contains a double-headed
Russian eagle, captured at Kertch by General Eardley-
Wilmot and presented to the church. In the churchyard
are two fine yews and a stone cross, consisting of a pedestal
of five steps surmounted by a modern shaft with a
sculptured head, replacing a former one which had fallen
into decay.
The road from Berkswell to Meriden (two miles) lies
through some very pretty woodland scenery, the descent
into the village, which lies in a valley, being particularly
attractive. A pool lies at the bottom of the hill, on the
opposite side to which stands the Old Bull's Head Inn, a
large cosy looking building now a private residence but
formerly an important coaching house on the old Holyhead
road. The Church stands on a hill about half a mile
distant at the east end of the village. It consists of nave,
with aisles, chancel, south porch, and embattled west
tower. The north wall is the oldest portion, exhibiting a
late Norman lancet window and one still more ancient
resembling Saxon work, both of which are, however, now
filled in. The tower and chancel arch are of the 14th
century, and the remainder is principally in the
Perpendicular style. At the angles of the tower are well
carved gargoyles, representing griffins. The principal
features of the interior are two tombs. At the east end of
the south aisle is a high tomb on which is the recumbent
mailed effigy in alabaster of John Wyard, esquire to
Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who founded a
chantry chapel here in 1404. Angels support the head and
the feet rest on a lion. At the side of the tomb, which is
of sandstone, are three heater shaped shields. At the east
end of the north aisle is another high tomb of the latter
part of the 14th century bearing a recumbent effigy in
sandstone of Sir John AYalsh, of "Walsh Hall, with three
heater shaped shields in quatrefoils on the side of the
tomb. The chantry chapel at the east end of the south
aisle is now used as a vestry and organ chamber. The
224 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
entrance to the 7-ood loft is still visible in the north aisle.
The font, which is octagonal, is of the 15th centiirj^ the
sides of the bowl being ornamented with quatrefoil panels.
The oak roof, decorated with bosses, is modern. The
churchyard contains an old yew, 13ft. in girth, and the base
and part of the shaft of an old cross. In the fields, about a
quarter of a mile south west of the church, is a well in
which, according to tradition, St. Lawrence baptised the
first converts in the parish. On the Green about one mile
west of the church is the base of the ancient \allage cross
of the time of Edward III., consisting of three steps with
the remains of the shaft. Further along on the right of
the road to Birmingham beyond the Workhouse is the
Forest Hall, the headquarters of the Archerj- Club known
as the Woodmen of Arden. The building, designed by
Bonomi, an Italian architect, was completed in 1788. The
original hall, which is 39ft by 24ift., has a coved ceiling
on which is the word " Arden," transfixed by an arrow
surrounded by a wreath of oak leaves. Round the room
are ranged the aschams of the members. At the east end
is a marble bust by Thomas Banks, of Heneage, fourth Earl
of Aylesford, first Lord Warden (died 1812), and a curious
ancient curved horn covered with leather, 2ft. in circuit
wath an aperture of 2:^in., and popularly termed " Robin
Hood's horn." In the middle windoAv is a curious piece of
16th centiirj^ glass, probably of German origin, representing
an archer. Next to the hall is a larger room added in 1846
which serves as a dining and ball room and contains a bust
by Nollekens, of Wriothesley Digby, fii-st secretary, 1785-
1826. Upon the walls are ancient bows and arrows, chiefly
Oriental. Outside is a raised terrace, and below it the
shooting ground of the archers. In 1745, at the time of
the Jacobite rebellion, 3,000 troops were encamped on
Meriden Heath, under the command of the Duke of
'Cumberland.
At one mile and a half north of Meriden Cross is the
entrance to PacMngton Park, covering about 700 acres
enriched with a considerable number of handsome oaks
and containing three ornamental lakes. In it stands
Packington Hall, the seat of the Earl of Aylesford, a
mansion in the Italian style built by Sir Clement Fisher, in
1693, and enlarged and faced with stone by Heneage, third
Earl of Aylesford, in 1772. It replaces an older mansion
W'hich stood about half a mile to the south west, in which
King Charles I. was entertained, October 18th, 1642, on his
Tway to the battle of Edgehill, and in which Charles II. and
shakespkaek's land. 225
Jane Lane took refreshment when the former was escaping
in disguise in September, 1651. The church of Great
PacMngton, a brick building in the Italian style erected in
1791, is situated in the park about half a mile from the
hall. It contains a brass to John Wright (died 1527),
inscribed, " Hie jacet dominus Johannes Wright quondam
Vicarius istius ecclesie ; qui obiit viii die mensis Martii
anno domini 1527. Cujus anime propitietur Deus." In the
vault beneath are plaster models for effigies of Sir Clement
Fisher (died October 23rd, 1619) and his wife Mary, which
do not appear to have been executed. Maxstoke Priory is
three miles from • Meriden Cross, and tlie Castle a niDe and
a half further.
ROUTE 18.— KEXILWORTH TO MAXSTOKE Via
HAMPTON-IX-ARDEN AND COLESHILL.
Quitting Kenilworth by Redfen Lane at one mile and a
half from the Castle we pass on the right Redfen Manor
House, about one hundred yards in the rear of which is a
Gospel Oak. Shortly after leaving Redfen House, we cross
a brook about 600 yards from which on the right hand side
near the hedge is the shell of an old oak tree still showing
signs of vitality and known as Child's Oak. It figures in
Dugdale's map of Hemlingford Hundred, and stands in the
parish of Kenilworth on the boundary of the parish of
Balsall. The name is traditionally said to be derived from
some children who were playing under it at the game of
" killing the pig," when one of them actually cut the throat
of another and occasioned its death. At four miles and a
half we come to a large inn termed the George-in-the-Tree,
and soon after cross the Birmingham railway. At Bradnock's
Marsh, six miles, we turn to the left, and soon after
passing under the railway, cross the river Blythe, l)y means
of a ford, which is at times dangerous. By the side of this
ford is a very interesting and ancient Packhorse Bridge, said
to have been built in the loth century.^ It consists of five
arches with four cutwaters facing south-west or upstream,
and on the other side facing north-east or down stream are
four rectangular buttresses. The three arches on the
Hampton or north-west side are of stone and obtuse
pointed, and the two on the Berkswell side are of brick and
semi-circular. The length of the bridge is 77ft., the width
6ft. 2in., and the clear span of the arches nearly 10ft., with
a headway above the water of 4ft. Sin. The parapet is
only 6in. high, but was doubtless formerly higher with a
coping. A stone in one of the buttresses marked B & H
denotes the division of the parishes. Proceeding onwards
at seven miles and a half we reach Hampton-in-Arden. The
Church stands on high ground, and is a conspicuous object
for some distance. The structure consists of a chancel,
1 Its characteristics are not sufficiently marked to admit of its precise age
being fixed, it may be as early as the 13th and is not later than the 16th
century.
SHAKESPEAEES LAND. 227
embattled nave, aisles, south porch, and embattled western
tower of three stages. The tower was formerly surmounted
by a spire, which, on the night of St. Andrew's Day, 1643.
was struck by lightning and shattered. The chancel was
erected in the 12th century, the nave and aisles in the 13th,
the clerestory being added in the 15tli, when the tower was
also built. At the east end of the south aisle is a recess for
an altar, and adjoining it in the south wall is a trefoiled
piscina. A stone seat extends along this wall nearly to the
south door. This represents the most ancient form of
church seating known before pews or seats of any kind
were introduced into the body of the church. On the
south side of the chancel is a plain stone sedilia in the lower
part of a Norman window adjoining a piscina. In the same
wall is a " Heart Shrine " belonging to a Knight Templar, con-
sisting of an Early English arch, supported by shafts about
4ft. high enclosing a trefoiled arch, inside which is an angel
bearing a shield with two lions passant, the arms of the
Erdington family. The heart which was enclosed in a
silver case, borne in the hands of the angel has long been
gone.^ On the floor is the mutilated brass of a man with
a chain depending from his waist, and vacant cavities for
his wife and children. It probably represents a brass
recorded by Dugdale commemorating Eichard Broke, Bailiff
of Hampton-in-Arden, and Isola, his wife, 'ihe font of red
sandstone is of Norman type. Close to the south side of
the toiuer is an old weather-worn stone tomb. The view from
the top of the tower on a clear day is very fine. Adjoining
the church is an old half-timbered farm house with a porch,
surrounded by traces of a moat, this was formerly the
Manor House of the Ardens. Attached to it is a large bam,
which was doubtless the old tithe barn. In 1607 Hampton
Field was the rendezvous of a considerable company of
rioters, who issued an address (" The Diggers of Warwick-
shire to all other Diggers"), and under colour of being
injured by the then prevailing fashion of changing arable
into grazing farms, threw down the enclosures, and by their
violent proceedings appear to have paralyzed the con-
stituted authorities of the county for several weeks
together.
Proceeding hence by Patrick Bridge (three-quarters
of a mile), we reach Stonebridge (two miles), and thence
1 It was a common practice, when the body was embalmed, to take out
the heart and bowels, and inter them in a different church to that iu which
the body was buried.
228 SHAKESPEAEE S LAND.
take the direct road which leads in another four
miles to Coleskill, a small market town situated on
a hill, the northern base of which is washed by the
little river Cole. In the Market Place at the side of
the Town Hall, on the left of the approach to the
Church, is the old combined pillory, whipping post and
stocks, which formerly stood in the centre of the Market
Place, and was removed to its present position in 1865. It
consists of a tall polf. which at a height of about 7ft. is
traversed by a standing board for the culprit in the pillorj^
whose head and hands were confined in a perforated board
still higher up. Below are iron shackles for securing the
legs and arms of those who were stocked or whipped. The
apparatus was last used in 1863, when two labourers were
placed in the stocks f<:ir drunkenness. The Church is a fine
building occupying a commanding position, and consists of a
western tower with a erocketted octagonal spire, each nearly
lOOft. high, and a chancel, nave, aisles, and north and south
porches. The sinre is admirably proportioned, and with the
tower ranks next in importance and symmetry to those of
Coventry. The belfry story is ornamented with panel
work under erocketted canopies, and the parapet is
embattled and panelled. The lowest stage contains a large
west window with a doorway underneath. The chancel is
a very striking feature of the exterior, three bays divided
from one another by buttresses with lofty pinnacles, being
nearly filled by large five-light Perpendicular windows
with Tudor arches. There appears to have been a church
here in the reign of Edward the Confessor, but the present
church, the earliest part of which is the nave, dates only
from the l-ith century. The chancel, with a new spire and
steeple, appear to have been built by William de Montfort,
Lord of the Manor, in the reign of Henry VI., who at the
same time lengthened the nave. In 1551, the lightning
cracked the west side of the tower, and shattered the upper
part of the spire. The inhabitants, in order to pay for the
repairs, sold one of the bells, and at the same time shortened
the spire by 15ft. In the interior the nave opens to the
aisles on each side by seven bays, the pillars being
octagonal. It will be noticed that the piers from the west
end up to the third bay are higher than the rest, and thus
show the point at which the nave was lengthened when
the Perpendicular chancel was built. The clerestory is
peculiar, being lighted on each side at the east end
only by one Perpendiciilar window of three lights. The
roof of the nave is coved with painted ribs. Below the
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 229
level of the floor of the chancel on tlie south side is a
mutilated double-seated sedilia, showing that the floor was
formerly at a lower level. On the north side is a door into
the vestry, with a crocketted arcade terminating in a
carving of a stag on one side, and a lamb on the other,
both symbolical of Christ. In the vestry are a couple of
plain Puritan chairs. The fine east icindoio of seven
lights is filled with painted glass representing the
Crucifixion. The font, which stands on a low thick shaft
is a richly sculptured specimen of the reign of Edward the
Confessor. The front represents the Saviour on the rood
with the Virgin and St. John on each side, a perforated
halo surrounding the head of Christ and another of large
dimensions encircling the cross and the body. The
remaining part consists of nine arcades, the four alternate
compartments containing representations of the Evangelists
and the others being filled with floreated trefoils arranged
in difiierent patterns. Underneath the tower is an ancient
oak chest with heavy iron bands. A special feature of the
church is its interesting sepulchral memorials. On the
south side of the tower is a mural tablet with coat of arms
and motto " Je tiens," inscribed to the memory of Skefling-
ton Brome, fourth son of William Brome, of Woodloes,
Warwickshire, who died in 1694. Under sepulchral arches
in the north and south aisles are figures of crusaders,
members of the Clinton family, who were lords of the
manor from the reign of Henry II. to that of Edward III.
The eflfigy in the north aisle is clad in a hauberk of chain
mail, that in the soutli aisle, which bears two fleurs de lis
on the shield, represents John de Clinton (died circa 1298)
in a hauberk of chain mail with the rings set edgewise and
is in a fine state of preservation. Both effigies have
surcoats over their hauberks. On the floor at the east end
of the nave is a brass with the following inscription : —
" Here lyeth interred the body of Richard Beresford Gent
who tooke to wife Alice the daughter of Thomas Wilington
Gent, they were married 19 yeares and had issve 4 sonnes
and 4 davghters. he departed this life the 4th of September
1651 aged 37 yeares." In front of the altar rails is another
brass to the following effect : — "here lyeth the body of Syr
John Fenton prest Bachelar of law sumtyme vicar of this
church and offishall of Coventree who deceassed the xvii
daye of Maye 1566 whose soule Jesus pardon amen."
Above this is an incised eiflgy habited in a cassock in
conformity with the Royal advertisement of 1664 regard-
ing ecclesiastical apparel. In the left hand is a book
230 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
with " VerbT(m) Dei" on the cover. On the north side-
inside the altar rails is a high tomb with recumbent
eflagies of Simon Di(/bi/,^ who died February 27th, 1519, and !
Alice, his wife, the date of whose death is left blank. The !
husband is represented bareheaded in full armour. The
head of the wife reposes on cushions, one heaped on the
other, the tassels supported by small figures of monks.
She wears a pedimental head-dress with a tippet hanging;
down behind and a mantle flowing to the feet, fastened at
the chest by tasselled cordons. Hanging down by a chain
on the left side is a pomander box, and in the folds of the
skirt on each side is a small lap dog. The following
inscription runs round the verge : — " Hie jacent corpora
Symonis Digby armigeri et Alicie uxoris eius, qui quidem
Simon obiit xxvii die februarii anno diii Millo CCCCCXIS
Et dicta Alicia oliiit .... die .... Anno dni
MCC'CCC." The side of the tomb is divided into four panels,
containing shields of arms. Next to this on the south is a
finely preserved incised brass bearing the effigy of a female
with this inscription : — " Of your charitie pray for the
soule of Alice Clifton late the wyffe of Robert Clifton Esqi'«
and daughter of Simon Digby Esqie wch Alice
and the yeare of our lord God MCCCCCVI on whose sovles
Jhu have mercy amen." On the north side by the altar
rails, between the tombs of Simon and John Digby, is a
brass to William Abell, who became vicar of the church in
1456 and died in 1500. He is represented tonsured and
in the habit of a catholic priest holding the chalice
and wafer. The inscription runs thus : — " hie jacet
d(omi)n(u)s Will(iel)m(us) Abell quo(n)d(a)m vicar(ius)
ist(ius) eccl(es)ie qui quide(m) d(omi)n(u)s Will(iel)m(us)
obiit xviii die me(n)s(is) maye an(n)o d(o)m(ini) m d
c(ujus) a(n)i(m)e p(ro)pi(ti)et(ur) de(us) ame(n)." Next
below outside the altar rails is the high tomb with
recumbent effigies of John Dighy (grandson of Simon.
Digby) and Anne his wife. The husband is bareheaded
and clad in full armour, the wife wears a round cap and a
high bodied gown with a cape, large hanging sleeves and
rulHes over the wrists. On her right hand side in the
folds of the dress is a small lap dog. The following is the
inscription : — " Here lyeth the bodies of John Dyggeby of
1 In 1495 Sir Siuiou Montfort, lord of the manor and the last of his race,
was attainted for having sent a sum of .£30 in aid of Perkin Warbeok,
and was executed at Tyburn. He was brought to the bar by Sir Simon,
Digby, deputy constable of the Tower, on whom the manor was sooa
afterwards conferred.
Shakespeare's land. 231
Coleshill and Anne his wife one of the daughters of George
Throgmertune Knighte. Which John deceassed the xvt^ of
November and the sayd Anne the xxi of december in the
yeare of our lord God MDLVIII vpon whose soules Jhu
have merey amen." The side of the tomb is divided into
three panels enclosing escutcheons, and at the foot are two
panels containing effigies of four children, one of these being
swathed. On the wall between the tombs is a mural
tablet to Sir Robert Diqby, died 24th May, 1618. On the
south side nearest to the east end is the high marble tomb
painted black and bearing recumbent effigies of Sir Geonje
Dujhy and Abigal his wife. The husband is bareheaded
and attired in full armour. The hair of the wife is turned
back stiffly from the face, and a close fitting cap with
curved lappets and set with precious stones covers the
head. She wears a close fitting bodiced gown, cuffs on the
wrists and a full Elizabethan ruff round the neck. On the
side of the tomb in niches are the kneeling figures of three
sons in armour and a young daughter. The first of these
sons was afterwards Digby, the celebrated Earl of Bristol.
On the lower end is the kneeling effigy of a daughter.
The following is the inscription :— " Here lyeth interred
Sr George Digby who dyed the 4th of February 1586. He
married Abigal davghter to Sr Arthvr Henningham
Knight Banneret by whome he had issve George who dyed
yovnge, Sr Robert Digby who svcceded his father, Philip
his Sonne John his 4 sonne created Earl of Bristol by K.
James Elizabeth married to Sr Baldwin Wake Knight
baronet." Next to this on a plinth is a marble urn to
commemorate Kildare, Lord Digby, Baron of Glashill in
Ireland, who died at Dublin 11th July, 1661. Below the
doorway is the alabaster tomb with incised effigies of
Reginald Diyby and Anne his wife. The husband is
bareheaded and in full armour, the wife wears a close
fitting cap with a calash or hood at the back of the
head, a high bodied gown slightly open in front with
large hanging sleeves, ruffles on the wrists, and a cordon
hanging from the waist with a pendent ornament. At the
foot are the figures of eight sons and four daughters, the
sex of the latter being distinguishable by their contracted
waists. The sides of the tomb are divided into panels
containing escutcheons and the initials R.A.D. The
following is the inscription:— " Vnder here lyeth the
bodyes of Reginald Digby Esquier and Anne his wife, the
whiche Reginald dyed the xxv^h day of Aprill in the yeare
of our lord MDXLIX . . and the sayd Anne dyed the
232 SHAEESPEAKE S LAND.
, . . . day of .... whose soules Jhu pardon
Amen.'" About one mile north-west of the town is
ColesMll Park, the seat of /. D. Wimjfeld Dii/by, Esq. The
house, which is a handsome mansion in tlie Elizabethan
style, was erected in 1873. About one mile south-west of
it, immediately to the east of the river Cole, and to the
north of the present Birmingham road, which in former
times ran half u mile further south, is the site of the old
hall, the ancient seat of the Digby family, which was
pulled down at the commencement of the present century.
The locality of the moat, which enclosed an area about 130
yards long by iUO broad, may still be traced, and the
present farm house is said to have originally constituted
the stables annexed to the ancient mansion. Here in 1575
Lettice, Countess of Essex, received clandestine visits from
Dudley, Earl of Leicester, a footbridge being specially con-
structed over the moat and pool at the back of the house
leading into the park, to enable him to evade observation.
To visit Maxstoke Castle, the road to Shustoke should be
followed as far as Blythe Hall (one mile), a gabled brick
mansion of two stories, rebuilt by Sir William Dwjdale,
and much modified by his grandson in the reign of Queen
Anne. Here the famous antiquary wrote his " Antiquities
of Warwickshire," and died in 1686. Hence we cross the
little river Blythe by a very fine medieval bridge of not
later date than the 15th century, and then take a private
road on tlie right, which conducts us in about another mile
to Maxstoke Castle, occupying a picturesque position
embosomed in trees in a deer park covering about 150
acres.
The foundation of the Castle was laid in 1345 by William
de Clinton, who obtained a licence to crenellate from King
Edward III., by whom he was held in high esteem, and by
whom he was constituted Justice of Chester, Constable of
Dover Castle, Warden of the Cinque Ports, and Admiral of
the Western Seas. In 1437, John de Clinton exchanged the
Castle for other manors with Humphrey, Earl of Stafford,
afterwards created Duke of Buckingham. In 1521, the
estate was forfeited by the attainder of the Duke ; it then
passed through several hands until in 1599 it was purchased
from Sir Thomas Egerton, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal,
by Mr. Thomas Dilke, in whose family it has ever
since remained, its present possessor being Beaumont
Fetherston, Esq. The Castle is built in the form of a
parallelogram, and is surrounded by a moat 16ft. deep and
forty yards wide, the water for which is supplied by a
SHAKESPEARE'S T.ANP. 233
brook and collected in two pools on the south-west, termed
the top pool and the pool tail. The embattled walls are
26ft. high, flanked at each angle by octagon towers, rising
a stage, and in one instance two stages above the ramparts.
The angle towers bear the following names: —North-east, the
Dead man's^ ; north-west (the highest), the Ladye's ; south-
east, the Dairy ; and south-west, the Kitchen. The Castle is
approached on the east by a stone bridge replacing the
ancient drawbridge. The Gateway is flanked by two
hexagonal towers, loopholed for the purpose of commanding
the drawbridge, wliich folded up close between them under a
stone covering, designed to protect the upper edge from
being grappled and pulled down from the outside. Within
is the groove for the portcullis, next to which are three open-
ings in the archway, through which molten lead or pitch
could be poured on the heads of besiegers. Beyond this
again are two massive oak doors, which are probably part of
the original structure, as the hinges bear the cross-crosslets
which were the arms of William de Clinton, the founder of
the Castle. The doors are covered with plates of corrugated
iron, added by the Duke of Buckingham in the reign of
Henry VI., and are embossed with his badge, the burning
nave and knot, and his coat-of-arms impaled with Nevill,
supported by two antelopes. The archway is groined, the
ribs being ornamented with bosses at the intersections. On
each side of it are two small guard chambers. Entering the
court the Dwelling House will lie found occupying the north-
west angle. On the north and south Avails will be observed
a row of corbels, which formerly supported the roofs of
wooden buildings in which the retainers and attendants
were housed when the Avails required to be manned. A
fireplace belonging to one of them also remains in the north
wall. Above is the alure or passage behind the battlements
6ft. wide communicating with chambers in the towers,
which afforded protection to the guard when going his
rounds. The dwelling house is partly half-timbered, the
front portion having been rebuilt in the 17th century. At
the south end of the great hall was the Chapel, the west
window of wdiich of the late Decorated period still remains,
and adjoining this was the Kitchen ; communication betAveen
which and the hall must have been carried on across
the chapel. The lower part of the chapel now serves
1 So called iu a survey made in temp. Queen Elizabeth. A very large
skeleton of a man was dug up at the base of it towards the close of the
18th century.
234 shakespeabe's land.
as a butler's pantry, and the upper forms a corridor
to the great hall. Here, in 1457, was solemnized the
marriage of John Talbot, afterwards Earl of Shrewsbury,
and ivatliarine, daughter of the Duke of Buckingham. The
Great Hall on the lirst floor is a handsome apartment lighted
by three windows. On the west side is a fine mantlepiece
of carved and coloured stone ornamented with the
numerous quartering? of the Dilke family, and bearing the
following inscriptions : —
Pennatus sidera mortal
Where no woode is I No tale bearers
Ye tire goeth out. | Sti-ife ceaseth.
On the east wall is a full length portrait of Charles II., by
Sir Peter Lely. The hall also contains the following objects
of interest : — A ficely engraved suit of armour of the 15th
century; a fine old oak table with two oak benches and a
stool, brought from Coleshill Hall, one of the seats of the
Digby family when it was pulled down ; a fine old oak shovel
board table, 22ft. long by 'Ihit. Avide, with playing discs ; an
old buff coat in which "Mr. Francis Fetherston was slayne
by a trooper at Kensington, September 2, 1682" ' ; stone balls,
iron balls, and pipe bowls found in the moat ; a pair of
jack-boots, won by one of the family at the battle of the
Boyne ; an old hooped beer stoup of wood ; and an old
powder flask.
The Tower Drawing Eoom in the splays of the windows
furnishes evidence of the strength of the walls, which are
5ft. thick. This room is oak panelled and contains a good
mantlepiece. Above this is a bedroom termed Henrj' YII.'s,
and over this again is the Top Tower Bedroom, which
contains a Puritan Sacramental table of oak. From the
top of this tower there is a fine view. It will be noticed
that the embrasures of the battlements are exactly of the
same width, and that the coping stones of the merlons
contain a deep slanting slot terminating in a round hole.
This in time of war served to receive a mantlet, or wooden
shutter, which protected the garrison and slid up whenever
they desired to discharge missiles at the enemy. The Oak
Drawing Room is oak panelled throughout and has a very
fine carved Kenaissance doors\"ay with flanking columns.
The mantlepiece is remarkably handsome. The upper part
is supported by three carj-atides, the inters"ening panels
being ornamented on one side with the shield of Dilke
1 TVinged to the ttars by death.
« Diary of Sir William Dugdale, p. 145.
''o^es.
tilt
GROUND PLAIJ OF
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 235
quartering Ashton, and on the otlier with the arms and
crest of Sir Clement Fisher, of Packington. At each side as
a supporter is a large carved heraldic lion rampant, argent
and or (i.e., half gilt, half white), standing on a double
plinth. On the walls are portraits of Colonel and Madame
Dilke, temp. AVilliam and Mary ; the Duke of Schomberg ;
and a characteristic likeness of Tom Grainger, the last
jester at the Castle, 1681, who is depicted with a long nose,
and a sly grin playing round his half open mouth ;
an owl perches on his shoulder and he carries a pipe in his
fingers. The room also contains an ancient oak chair with
a curved back, brought from an old house on Bosworth Field,
since demolished. It bears the following inscription on a
brass plate :— " In this chair King Henry 7^^ was crowned
on Bosworth Field AD 1485." Here are also an oak table,
said to be made out of a bedstead from Kenilworth Castle,
and several old oak chairs and dower chests. Next to this
room are two oak panelled bedrooms. The Dining Room on
the ground floor contains a sideboard supposed to have
been made out of a tree that Oliver Cromwell fired at in
Coleshill Park. On the walls are the following portraits : —
" Ward Dilke," 1688 (three-quarter length) ; " Lady Fether-
ston," 1641 ; " Sir Timothy Fetherstonhaugh," beheaded at
Chester, 1641 ; " Sir Edward Littleton, Knight " (three-
quarter length), by Kneller. The basement is vaulted, and
contains several old open chimneys.
Proceeding southward from hence via Duke's End, we
arrive at the remains of Maxstoke Priory (one mile and
a half).
The Priory was originally a Chantry founded in 1333 by
William de Clinton, the builder of "Maxstoke Castle. In
1336 this Chantry was dissolved and the Priory founded,
its dedication taking place on the 8th July, 1342. The
number of canons, who were of the Augustinian order, was
originally twelve, but it subsequently varied from time to
time. The situation chosen was a pleasant one, sloping
■westward to the Blythe and embracing an extensive view.
The site is nearly square in plan, and was enclosed on all
sides by a wall from ten to twelve feet high, this area being
again sub-divided into five or six courts. Tlie chief
entrance was by the Outer Gatehouse (V) in the middle of
the outer north wall on the road from Fillongley to
Coleshill. The lower part of this building consists "of a
vaulted passage, having a room above witli a gabled roof.
At the south-west inner corner is an octagonal staircase
giving access to the upper story, and at the outer corner
236 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
on the same side is a small attached huilding of three
floors. At the further end of the passage are two doorways,
the smaller one for pedestrians, luxTing a pointed arch, and
the larger one an elliptical arch. The original doorways
remain, and are excellent specimens of strong timber frame
construction. In the upper story facing the road is a
pointed window of two lights, transomed. The moulded
dripstone terminates on one side in the head of a knight
with the vizor of his helmet down, and on the other in the
head of a monk with his cowl. On each side of the window
are niches with crocketted heads and finials. The rooms
below in the attached building probably formed the Porter's
Lodge, the small window looking out on the road enabling
him to scrutinize visitors, while a narrow slit in the passage
now blocked up permitted him to communicate with
persons inside the gateway. At one end is a necessarium.
The room over the gateway, which contains a fire-place
and a chimney was probably the Guest Chamber, and the
room next to it a bedroom.
The next building we come to. now occupied as a farm-
house (T), was originally the Middle Gatehouse of the Priorj-,
and was similar in plan to the outer gatehouse, the traces
of the archway being still distinctly visible. It was con-
siderably altered in the 15th century, when it possibly
became the Priors' Lodgings, and in the reign of Elizabeth
it was converted into a dwelling house. In the room above
M-as a painted ceiling of the 15th century, divided into four
great divisions by vine leaves, tendrils and grapes, and
sub-divided into sixty-four panels. This having become
seriously decayed was taken down in 1868, and a
reproduction of twenty-four of the panels on a larger scale
has been attempted in a modern ceiling in an oak-panelled
room on the ground floor. The only parts of the ancient
work now remaining are some pieces of the carved work
formerly attached to the cross-beams of the original ceiling.
In the enclosure beyond is the Central Tower of the Church
(B), a noble fragment of masonry with remarkal)ly fine
arches on the north and east. The church consisted of a
nave without aisles (A), a central tower (B), with north
and south transepts (EE), and a chancel (C). The tower and
transepts were added a few years after the construction of
the church, the eastern part of the nave being removed
for the purpose, and the chancel arch being utilised as the
eastern arch of the tower. This tower was probably
surmounted by a wooden spire. Of the remaining build-
ings in many cases little more than the foundations
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 237
remain. South of the nave, and communicating with it by
a door, was a building (F), the purposes of which cannot
be determined. On the north side of the chancel, separated
from it by an arch, was a small Vestry or Chapel (D). North
of the nave and transept, from which latter a door opened
into it, was the Cloister Court (H), the south alley only of
which appears to haA-e been vaulted. Opening out of the
east alley was a square apartment (K), which was probably
the Chapter House. Beyond this was a rectangular apart-
ment (L) which was probably the Parlour, or business
room of the Priory. On the west side of the cloister were
two apartments (PQ), over which was probably the
Dormitory of the canons. On the north side was a long
building (N), the upper floor of which doubtless formed the
Refectory, while the lower was occupied with various
offices. Forty yards east of the cloister was a large
building (O), of which a great part of the west end still
remains. This was probably the Infirmary.
At the north-west end of the upper court adjoining a
pool of water are the remains of a liuilding (Y), which was
doubtless the Granary, or " pistrinum " of the monks, and
had a mill attached to it which was provided with water
by a pool in the upper court, which, in its turn, was
supplied by the upper pool beyond the walls. The village
Church is a small building, principally in the Decorated
style, with a slight tendency to Perpendicular.
t'^om hence the visitor may proceed either north-
westward to Coleshill via Duke Bridge (two miles and a
half), or southwards to Meriden Cross (three miles).
ROUTE 19.— LEAMINGTON TO COVENTRY' Via
ASHOW, STONELEIGH JCsD BAGINTON.
Following the Kenilworth Road to a point nearly opposite
to Blakedown Mill (two miles and a half), a footpath will be
found on the right which conducts across the fields in a
little more than half-a-mile to the pleasant little village of
Ashow, The way by road lies via Chesford Bridge, soon
after crossing which a route on the right leads to the
village. The Cliurch. charmingly situated on the right baak
of the river Avon, is principally in the style of the 15th
century, though traces of Norman work are observable in
the tower, chancel, and north wall of the nave. Over the
communion table is a pre-reformation picture of the Dutch
school representing the Crucihxion. The communion plate,
which is similar to that at Bidford, is very handsome, and
was presented by the Duchess Dudley in 1638. On the out-
side of the north wall of the chancel is an ancient stone
monument, with a cross carved on it, traditionally termed
" The Soldier's Grave.'" In the year 1842, the soil under-
neath was excavated to a depth of oft. without however
discovering any traces of an interment.
From hence the road conducts in about one mile to the
west lodge of Stoneleigh Abbey, termed Glasshouse Lodge,
from which the avenue to the house proceeds through the
Home Park, crossing the Avon by a handsome stone
bridge, designed by Eennie, and erected in 1809. The
Abbey, which is the seat of Lo)-d Leigh, the Lord Lieutenant
of the County, lies in a very beautiful situation, enclosed
by gentle hills clothed with tine trees, at the foot of which
the Avon winds gracefully in full view. The parks, of
which there are two. the Home Park and the Deer Park
cover a large tract, dotted over with handsome trees, some-
times singly, sometimes in clusters, and sometimes in whole
woods ; some knotted and gnarled with age, and others
with all the grace and symmetry of more recent growth,
the classes of the trees being as varied as their growth.
1 The direct road from Leamin^on to Coventry (nine miles and three-
quarters), via Stoneleigh, proceeds via Blakedown Hill, Stoneleigh and
Stvvechale. The views between Blakedown Hill and Stoneleigh Park are
very fine, the spires of Coventry being prominen objects.
Shakespeare's laxd. 239
Near the Abbey is a huge Pollard oak, 33ft. in girth, and
near the Kifle Butts in the Deer Park is another gigantic
oak, beneath which a poetic fiction asserts that Shakespeare
composed some of his plays. Close to the Keeper's Lodge in
the Deer Park, the remains of a l-lth century cross are
visible. About half a mile from the gates of the Home
Park on either side is the Gatehouse of the Abbey, a
venerable structure of the 14th century, picturesquely
clothed with ivy, which Dugdale describes as " a fair and
strong building," one of the works of the 16th Abbot, Robert
de Hockele, who died in 1349. " On the front whereof,
outwards, there is remayning yet a large escocheon of stone,
whereon three lyons passant gardant are cut; with a lyon
passant gardant upon a helme, set on the corner of the
shield, according to the fashion of that time wherein
he lived, which badge he fixed here in memory of K.
Henry the 2, their Founder." The building attached to the
eastern side of the gatehouse was in former times most
probably occupied as the Hospitium, where guests were
received and hospitality dispensed as well as an
Eleemosynary, or place for the distribution of alms. The
north or exterior side remains very much in its original
condition, but the south side appears to have been altered
in the early part of the 17th century, by the insertion of
square-headed windows of that period in the walls, and
gable-headed dormer windows in the roof. The gateway is
closed by huge oak gates of rude construction, and contains
an ancient bench of wood, perforated with circular
openings, which probably served either as a stand for
halberds or as stocks, most probably the latter, seeing that
the monks jiossessed the right of punishment in accordance
with the manorial custom of that period. Near the door
of the chamber in the open gallery- on the south side is a
curious sculptvired figure with a capucium or hood on the
head. The principal block forming the main portion of
the house is an imposing looking structure of three stories
with slightly projecting wings built in the Italian style in
the year 1720. The front is divided at intervals by Ionic
pilasters supporting a deep cornice and balustrading. The
remaining buildings are fragments of the original Abbey,
which was founded in 1154 by Cistercian monks,^ to whom
1 Morality does not seem to have been a strong feature in tiie religious
system at Stoneleigh under one Abbot at least, as we are told that "in 38
Edward 111.(1365), there was a complaint made against Thomas de Pipe,
the then Abbot ; viz., that he granted estates to divers persona for lives of
severall fermes and lands, without reserving any rent to ,be paid, to the
240 shaeespeaee's land.
Henry II. granted tlie site in exchange for other hinds. In
153U the Abbey was granted to Charles Brandon, Duke of
Suffolk, whose sons died childless. It was then divided
among the cousins and heirs of the family, the site of the
monastery with part of its lands falling to William
Cavendish, who sold it to Sir Rowland Hill and Sir Thomas
Leigh, Knights, Aldermen of London. They afterwards
made a division of lands and manors they had acquired,
and Stoneleigh was alloted to Sir Thomas Leigh. This Sir
Thomas Leigh was a son of Roger Leigh, of "Wellington, in
Shropshire, descended from a younger branch of the Leighs,
of High Leigh, in Cheshire. He was bred up by Sir
Rowland Hill, an opulent London merchant, who gave
him his niece in marriage, ha%"ing no child of his own
and left him the greatest part of his estate. Sir
Thomas was Lord Mayor of London in 155S, and died in
1572. The following was in all probability the position of
the ancient buildings of the Abbey. On the spot which
now forms the main front of the mansion was the Dormitory,
or common sleeping apartment of the monks, underneath
which was the entrance to the Abbey. On the right
hand or south side of the court was a spacious apartment,
the ancient Refectory or dining hall, built in the 13th
century by Abbot Wyche, whose biographer says it is
reported to be the only good work he did during his
abbacy. The north or left side of the court was
bounded by the south, aisle of the Church, the east side
by the south transept of the Church, the Chapter House,
and the Abbot's lodgings, or apartments placed over
a vaulted substructure or crypt. Of these buildings
the dormitory and refectory have been demolished
to make way for the present mansion. The nave, north
aisle, choir, and north transept have also been wholly
destroyed. The south aisle has been formed into an
entrance corridor to the house, and part of the south
transept has been transformed into the housekeeper's room.
The chapter house and abbot's lodging are converted into
domestic offices. Underneath the atbot's lodging, which
was probably built by Robert de Hockele in the 14th
century, is a vaulted basement or crj'pt containing the
remains of a piscina and an aumbry. The conventual
buildings on the east side of the court appear to have been
great prejudice of the monasterj' ; and this was alledged to be for the
support of a concubiae that he had, called Isabell Beushale, and bis
children by her, which were more Lii number, as the Record says, than
the monks then in the convent."
1
r
Shakespeare's land. 241
altered in the reigii of James I., seven gables of one size
and two of a larger size being added to the upper part and
the walls below being pierced with numerous square
headed muUioned windows of that period. The entrance
door of the Abbey is on the north side and opens into a
€orridor, 80ft. long, 12ft. wide, and 20ft. high, which is
believed to have formed the south aisle of the church.
This corridor, which up to the year 1836 formed two
apartments one above the other, is panelled with carved
oak taken from the old Abbey and placed here with
modern additions in the same style. The cliimney piece is
a handsome specimen of inlaid wood of the reign of Charles
1. brouglit at the time it was pulled down from Fletcham-
stead Hall, near Coventry, one of the former residences
of the Leigh family. The windows are filled with painted
glass bearing the arms of the Leigh family, and some
contain effigies in the upper lights. At the south west and
south east ends of this corridor are Korman doorways
leading into the quadrangle. The westernmost doorwaj' in
all likelihood served for the ingress of the monks from the
dormitory into the church at the nocturnal offices. The
easternmost was probably either one of egress from the
church when the brethren went in procession to the
chapter house, or was more particularly for the use of the
Abbot. The following portraits hang on the walls :—
Two full length portraits of " Sir Chrislopher Hoddesdon," Knight, of
Leightou, Bedfordshire, father of Ursula, wife of Sir John Leigh, eldest
eon of the first Sir Thomas Leigh ; " Thomas, Second Lord Leigh " (died
1710), KmUtr; "Eleanor," his wife, daughter to Edward second Lord Rock-
ingham, and granddaughter of the Earl of Stratford, who was beheaded ;
"Edward, Third Lord Leigh "(died 1738); "Mary," his wife, daughter
and heir to Thomas Holbech, of Fillongley, Esq. ; " Edward, Second Lord
Rockingham"; "Anne," his wife, daughter of the celebrated Earl of
Strafford; portrait of a man, with this inscription: " ltj53, setatis suse
33 " ; "Honourable Mrs. Anue Leigh," Lely : " Honourable Anne Leigh " ;
" Honourable Mrs. Watson " ; and one other family portrait.
A staircase leads from hence to the Entrance Hall, the
east window of which affords a view of the quadrangle
below with the remains of the old Alibey. Opposite is a
Norman doorway with a triple recessed arch forming
anciently the entrance to the chapter house. The gables
in the upper part of this lilock are additions of the reign of
James I., at which period the square headed windows
below were also inserted. To the left on the north side is
another Norman doorway with a bead chevron moulding
leading into the corridor. The quadrangle, which does not
appear to have been surrounded by cloisters, is said to
have been the burying ground of the monks. Underneath
242 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
the window is a iine old chest of carved maple whicb
belonged to the old Abbey. On the south side is a window
made up of glass from Aston Hall, Warwickshire, and
Brereton Hall, Cheshire. It is filled with coats of arms
dating from 1.577, and formerly belonged to Mr. C. H.
Bracebridge, of Atherstone, by whose will it became the
property of Lord Leigh in 1872.
Entrance Hall.— Pictures : "James Brydges, Eighth Lord Chandos "
(died 1714), father of the Hon. Mary Leigh ; '' James Brydges, First Dake
of Chandos" (died 1744); ''Cassandra," his second wife, sister to Thoma*
WOloughby, Lord Middleton ; " Henry, Second Duke " (died 1771), father
of Ladv Caroline Leigh; "James, Third and Last Dulje of Chandos"
(1731-17S9); "Sir Edward Tmner," of Ambrosden, Bai-onet (1719-1766),
husbandof Cassandra, eldest daugnter of WUliam, son of TheophUus Leigh,
of Addlestrop ; " ■SVilliam Leigh, Esq." (l(390-17titi), of Longborough and
Addlestrop ; " Joanna Leigh," his wife, daughter to Thomas Pury, Esq.;
" Theopliilus Leigh," Kndltr ; "Hon. Marj- Leigh," his wife, daughter
to James, eighth Lord Chandos, KntlUr : " William Leigh, Esq." ; " Mary
Leigh, ' his wife, daughter and coheir to Robert Lord, Es<:£. ; "James
Leigh, Esq., and the Lady Caroline," Ids wife, daughter to Henry, second
Duke of Chandos ; and theu- only son, "James Henry," as a boy, T. Beach ;
"William Henry, present Lord Leigh," Sir /. IT. &'oj-(Zo/'., a presentation
from the Freemasons of Warwickshire to Lady Leigh ; marble bust of
" Judge Wijles," grandfather to Mai-garette Lady Leieh, wife of Chandos,
Lord Leigh, by Bacon; marble bust cf "Byron," by E. H. Baily, R.A.,
1S2S.
The Library opens out of the hall and forms the entrance
to the principal suite of apartments. It looks out upon
the lawn and originally consisted of two rooms, which in
1836 were thrown into one, supported in the centre by
arches.
Library.— Pictures : " Lord Bjtou" (178S-1S24), by Phillips, purchased
at the sale of Watson Taylor, Esq., of Erle^toke Park ; a portrait supposed to
be of Milton ; " Herodias's Daughter with the Head of John the Baptist,"
GuiJo Rtdi ; miniature of " Xapoleou L" (1709-1821), hy Dav id, with the
inscription, " Ombra la tua grandezza " ; copies of the " Fornarina," ;
hj BajTacUe, and "Beatrice Cenci " (1583-1599), hy Guido : "Chandos,
Lord Leigh" (1791-1850), Si> G. Hayta- : " M argarette," his wife (died
1660), Sir G. Hayter: "The Pilgrim's Rest," Kavez; Two paintings
of wreaths of flowers, Mario da Fiori ; "Lucius Gary, Viscount Falk-
land " (1(30-1643) ; "Erasmus" (1467-1536), Holbein: "Mary, Queen
of Scots " (1542-1587) (miniature); Miniatiu-e of "James Henry Leigh,
Esq." (died 1823), and his wife " Julia," (died 1843), daughter of
Thomas, tenth Lord Saye and Sele, father and mother of Chandos,
Lord Leigh.
The Silk Drawing Eoom contains gilt furniture upholstered
with rich crimson velvet.
Silk Drawing Room. — Pictmes : " John the Baptist," Gaspar de
Craytr; "Landscape," Jan Tf'yyiants ; "Castle and RockyScenery,"£t)-^Ae))i ;
" Horses and Figures," Cuyp ; " Father Explaining Illuminated Missal to
his Children," Tilburg ; "Farrier's ^hed," Fhilips Woiacernian : "Battle
Piece," Philips WovArermaa : "Cattle," Tenitrs the Elder: "Landscape
with Cattle," Berghtm : " Cassandra, Duchess of Chandos." second wife of
James, first Duke; "Lady Leigh." This room also contains a handsome
Italian marqueterie table depicting scenes in the life of Columbus.
shakespeahe's land. 243
The Velvet Drawing Boom, so called on account of the
furniture being covered with crimson velvet, is panelled
with oak.
Velvet Drawing Room. — Pictures: " Two Portraits of Beauties of the
Court of Charles II.," Ldy ; " Four Views of Venice," by CanaUttn : " Sir
Thomas Leigh " (died 1672), Lord Mayor of London, aged 70, Holbein the
1/O'unyer; "' Uanie Alice Leigh," his wife," ?ged 49, Holbein the youngir; "The
Woman of Canaan " ; " The Woman taken in Adultery " ; "A Landscape
with Cattle and Figures," Paul Potter ; " A Landscape," Anthonissen.
The Saloon, a handsome apartment, is supported at each
end by Corinthian pillars, and, up to the year 1836, formed
the entrance hall. It is panelled with medallions in alto
relievo representing the labours of Hercules, and the ceiling
is dedicated to his Apotheosis all executed by Cipriani, an
Italian artist, under the direction of Edward Fifth Lord
Leigh (died 1786), who spent a considerable time on the
Continent. The doors in the centre open out on the terrace
from which there ia a lovely view.
Saloon. — Pictures : " Fruit Piece," Snt/ders ; " Burgomaster's Children,"
Rci'iibraiidt ; "Landscape," Co.yp: "Woodman's Return," Gainsborougli :
■" Sea-piece," De Vliegcr , " Spaniel and Dead Game," Jan Baptista M'eenix.
There are two fine ebony cabinets and two handsome mosaic tables in this
room as well as some good specimens of old Chelsea, Dresden and Sevres
china. The furniture is covered with amber silk.
The Dining Boom is oak panelled.
DiNiKG Room. — Pictuies : " Sir Thomas Egerton " (1540-1617), created
Baron Ellesmere 1603, Viscount Brackley Itilii, Lord Chancellor of England
1590-1617 (in his robes of office). "Alice, Countess Dowager of Derby," third
wife of Lord Chancellor Ellesmere, celebrated in her youth by Spenser
under the name of Amarvllis,i and the patroness of the early genius of
Milton, who wrote his "Arcades " (circa 1633) for her amusement.
"Thomas, Earl of Straiford, and his secretary," VanDyck: "William. Earl
of Stratford" (died 1095) and his sisters Lady Anne and Lady Arabella
Wentworth " (small full length). Van Dyck ; "Lady Anne Wentworth "
(small full length), VanDyck: "FredeiickV. Elector Palatine and King
of Bohemia" (1596-1632) in armour, Hontliorst : "Elizabeth, Queen of
Bohemia, daughter of James I." (l596-]0ri2), Honthorst ; " (iharles I.,"
Van Dyck. This picture had been painted over with flowers, and was
accidentally discovered and cleaned in 1836; "Hon. Charles Leigh";
" Lewis Lord Rockingham," (died 1652) ; " Patrick Lord Kerry of Ireland,"
father of Jane, second wife or Sir Thomas Leigh, eldest son of Thomas
fu-st Lord ; " Hon. Mrs. Watson " ; " Two Portraits," ?(/iAnow)i .• "Charles
Brandon, Dirke of Suffolk," (died 1545) ; " Lady Caroline Leigh, daughter
ef Heniy Duke of Chandos and wife of .J.ames Leigh, Esq."; " Tlie present
Lady Leigh," Grant : "Hon. Christopher Leigh,"; Hon. Mrs. Anne Watson ";
"Hon. Thomas Wentworth" (died 1671); " Thomas first Lord Leigh,"
" who entertained at his seatat StoneJeigh in Warwickshire King Charles I.,
1 " Colin Clout's come home again " (1591), lines 434-9, 536-43, 565-72.
■Spenser afterwards dedicated " The Tears of the Muses " to her.
244 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
when his rebellio.is subjects of Coventry refused to open their gates to
him " 1 ; " Alioe, Duchess Dudlej- " flSTS-ieeS).
The Breakfast Room forms the termination of the suite
of apartments on the west front. Below the windows are
flower parterres vivid with colour, sloping down to the
Avon, the placid surface of which is enlivened by water-
fowl, while a charming background is formed by a
beautiful grove of trees clothing a slope at a little distance.
Brf.akfastRoom.- Pictures; " The Farmer's Return," containing a por-
trait of Garrick as the farmer, Zoft'any ; "NicooIoMacchiavelli" (1469-1527);
" Interior of a Chnrchf" Pietcr Neefs the elder ; " Landscape with Ruina,"
Panini; "View in Stoneleigh Park," Rider ; "View in Stoneleigh Park,"
C.R.Stanley; " Minclienden House," Soixthgate, Wilson; "Landscape,"
Jan Molenner; " Gustavus Adolphiis," King of Sweden (ldll-16:-i2) ;
" Henry VIII.," copied from /foiicni, • " Seapiece," Van ile Vt Id e ; sma.U
portrait of " Sir Thomas Leigh "; " Landscape with Ruins," Salvator
Rosa ; " The Virgin and Child," " The Saviour \vith the Crown of Thonis,"
A. Diirer ; " The Crucifixion," A. Ddrcr ; "James Henry Leigh" (died
1S23) when a child fondliuir a spaniel ; "Hon. Mary Leigh " (died 1S06),
sister and sole heir of Edward, fifth Lord Leigh ; " Edward," fifth Lord
Leigh (died 1786) ; " Prince Charles Edward the Pretender" (1720-17SS),
small full length.
The Chapel is fitted up in the style of the 18th century. On
the right of the gallery is a medallion of the Madonna and
Dead Christ in white marble. The altar piece is a copy of
the Descent from the Cross by Michael Angelo. In the
adjoining Vestibule are pictures of " Cassandra," Duchess of
Chandos ; " Queen Elizalieth " and " The Meet of the North
Warwickshire Hunt at Kenilworth in 1871," by T. Temple,
presented to Lord Leigh in July, 1872. A private museum
upstairs contains the spades used by the Queen and the
Prince Consort in planting trees when visiting here in
18.^8 ; a snuff-box belonging to Charles James Fox with a
cameo on the lid ; an ancient mouse-trap found in the Old
House at Long Itchington in 1886, and a case of stuffed
animals in six divisions, cleverly illustrating the story of
Keynard the Fox. The Kitchen leads out to the old groined
Crypt, which is now used as a bakehouse and brewhouse.
The Abbot's Lodging above it was probably occupied by
1 "Exceeding joyful news from Coventry, &c. , Aug. 20, 16*2. Upon
Mondiiy last, there was inforniaon given to the House of Commons by Ires
from Wshire that his Maiy came to Covy upon SatJ" last with a great ^—
of Cavaleers, his whole army consisted of about 6,000 horse, wch the
citizens of Covy, perceiving they shut up the gates of the city & stood
upon their guard. Whereupon His Maiy retired to a Knight's house
abotit 3 miles from Covy, & the Cavaleers made the poore cmintry men's
houses their innes, & there they made their own welcome taking what
they pleased."
" From Covy, Aug. 20, 1642. The King is this day come to Stoneley to
Sir Thomas Leigh, &c." " Extracts from Pamphlets given by George III.
to the liiitish Museum."
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 245
Charles I., when he was a guest here in August, 1642. The
Still Room, which occupies part of the site of the Chapter
House, contains a round Norman column. Beyond this is a
fine oak staircase with open Decorated panels, and on the
opposite side a beautiful carved oak door leads to the stables.
The walls of the Housekeeper's Room which is formed out of
part of the south transept of the church, are hung with old
leather, stamped and gilt. In this room is a portrait of Pope
Leo X., 1513. In the rear of the Abbey are the stables and
coach-houses forming a large quadrangle, attached to which
is a riding school. In June, 1858, the Queen and the Prince
Consort were sumptuously entertained here for three days
on the occasion of the opening of Aston Hall, the whole of
the Abbey being previously redecorated in their honour.
The road from the Park 'Lodge to the village of Stoneleigh
(one mile) in a very short distance crosses the Avon by
Stare Bridge, built in the 14th century by the monks of
Stoneleigh, a picturesque structure of narrow dimensions
with recesses in the parapet to enable foot passengers to
escape danger from passing vehicles. It then traverses a
lovely avenue of trees some symmetrically beautiful and
others knotted and gnarled and twisted in the most
grotesque and fanciful manner.
On the left, just before reaching the bridge, is Motstow
Hill, a slight eminence from which there is a fine view.
The hill derives its name from the fact that the tenants
used every three weeks to do their suit at the King's Court
held for this manor upon the summit, the word mote being
used by lawyers in the sense of pleadings. Crossing the
river Sow by a bridge, which was erected in 1840, to
replace an older structure, we arrive at the Church, which
consists of a western tower, nave, south aisle and chancel,
a vestry south of the chancel connected with the south
aisle, and a mortuary chapel of the Leigh family on the
north side of the chancel. The lower stage of the tower
is Norman, the upper is of the 14th century. The nave
is principally Decorated, and the chancel is late Norman.
On the north side of the church is a Norman doorway now
blocked up, the tympanum of which is covered with
sculptured serpents, fishes and chimerpe. On the south
side in a recess is the following inscription : —
To the memory of Humphrey How
Porter to the Rt. Honble. the Lord Leigh
Ob. : 6 : ffebr. ; An. : Doni. : 1688 setat, 63
Here lyes a Faithful Friend unto the Poore
Who dealt Large Almes out of his Lord ps Stor
Weepe not Poore People tho ye Seraats Dead
24S khakkspeare's land.
The Lord himselfe will giue you Dayly Breade
if Markets Rise Raile not against theire Rates
The Price is still the same at Stoneleigh Gates.
The entrance from the tower to the nave is by a Norman
door, the upper part of which is covered by plaster work.
The nave appears to have been remodelled in the 14th
century. On the north side is a Decorated window of
three lights with two more recent imitations in the same
style. The chancel arch is a tine and rich specimen of
Norman work, ornamented with round, zigzag, double cone
and billet mouldings, the jambs being also richly carved. On
the north side is a representation of a dragon, on the south
side a serpent. The interior of the chancel is decorated
by a handsome arcade of early pointed flat-faced arches,
enriched with zigzauf moulding, and displaying other
features of Norman detail. On the north side is the
massive marble monument of Alice Duchess Dudley, and
her daughter Alicia, erected in the lifetime of the former,
who was created a Duchess for her life only by Charles I.
The Duchess was the daughter of Sir Thomas Leigh, and
wife of Sir Robert Dudley, son of Robert, Earl of Leicester,
the favourite of Eliz ibeth. She died January 22nd, 1668,
aged 90, and her daughter died May 23, 1621. The
recumbent effigies of the mother and daughter are in white
marble placed on black sarcopliagi. The heads rest on
cushions, the figure of the mother being placed on a
stage receding above that of the daughter. Over all is a
flat tester canopy supported by eight Ionic columns, and
hung with drapery upraised by an angel on each side. The
monument was the work of Nicholas Stone, master mason
to Charles I. On the same side is a mural tablet to
Margarette Lady Leigh, died 1860, and underneath it on a
high tomb of the 14th century is the recumbent effigy of a
priest sculptured in red sandstone, probably a former vicar
©f the parish. He is represented in an alb and chasuble
with a maniple hanging over the left arm, but the stole is
not visible. Opposite to this in a recess is an alabaster
monument to Chandos Baron Leigh, died September 27th,
1850. The east window by Clayton and Bell is a memorial
to the Hon. Gilbert Leigh, who died in America in 1884,
from a fall from his horse. The font at the west end of the
church is an unusually fine specimen of early Norman or
possibly of Saxon work. It is circular, supported on a
round shaft of smaller size, and was brought from
Maxstoke. The outside contains the figures of the twelve
apostles under arcades, the dresses of the figures being of
SHAKESPEAKE'S liAND, 247"
the period of Edward the Confessor. In the vestry on the
south side is a tablet with the following incription : —
" This vestry and the vavlt under it were made by the-
Right Honorable Thomas Lord Leigh, Baron of Stoneleigh,,
in the seaventyeth year of his age, and in the yeare of our
Lord God one thovsand six hundred sixty-fiye, the one for
the Tse of the parishowners and the other for a bvrying
place for himselfe his lady and their desendents 1665." In
the churchyard is an ancient monument now nearly worn
away, said to be that of a Lady Motstow, of whom Dugdale-
has recorded the following tradition that " Anty there was
a goodly I^use standing upon the hill called Motstow-hill
on the south pte of the church, wdi was the habitacion of a
knight who going to the warrs left his ladey great wt child,
and that upon the news yt he was slayne, she ript up her
own belly, and was buried therefore on the north side of
the church in ye church yard, under a stone whereupon is
pourtraied the figure of a woman & a child." In the
village are some alms houses, erected in 1594 by Alice, wife
of Sir Thomas Leigh. Sir Henry Parkes, several times
Prime Minister of New South AVales, was born at Stoneleigh
in 1815 and educated at the village school.
Proceeding onwards we pass on the left Chantry Heath, at
the north extremity of which (one mile) is a considerable
wood famous for foxes. At the end of a drive cut through
this wood about a quarter of a mile from the road is the
decayed trunk of a large Gospel Oak fenced round
for protection. One mile further we reach Baginton,.
the Church of which, standing on a slight eminence
at the entrance of the village, is built throughout
in the Early English style, being, with the exception
of a two light window at the east end, entirely lighted
by lancets. A very picturesque bell turret springs from
an arcade of three arches between the nave and the
chancel. Between the chancel and the nave is a very fine
enamelled brass commemorative of Sir William Bagot (died
September 3rd, 1407), and Margaret his wife. The husband
is in armour, and the wife wears a kirtle, sideless cote
hardi and mantle lined with fur. The inscription is
modern and to the following effect : — " Sir William Bagot
and Margaret his wife, who lived at Baginton Castle, a.d.
1400." On the north wall of the chancel is a mural
monument flanked by Corinthian columns, and surmounted
by allegorical figures to the memory of Mrs. Ellen Campion,
died January 23rd, 1632. A quarter of a mile west of the-
church on the left bank of the river Sow are the remains of
"248 shakespeabe's land.
Baginton Castle, consisting of foundations only with the
springer of a shaft of a vaulted room at its north-east
angle. The date of its demolition is unknown, but it was
standing in the reign of Richard III. It is memorable as
being the place where Henry Duke of Hereford, afterwards
King Henry IV., lodged in September, 1397, on the eve of his
intended combat with the Duke of jSorfolk on Gosford Green,
and from whence he " advanced to the place appointed, upon
his white courser, barded with blue and green velvet,
gorgeously embroidered with swans and antelopes of
goldsmith's work, and armed at all points." To the north
on rising ground is the shell of Baginton Hall,^which was
gutted by fire on October 7th, 18<S1». The house was built
in 1714 by William Bromley, (Speaker of the House of
Commons in 1710), on the site of an old manor house, which
had also been destroyed by fire. A mile and a half onwards
is the village of Styvechale, containing a handsome hall or-
manor house built about 1750. At the western extremity
of tlie village is a fine plane tree. Half a mile further the
route joins the road from Kenilworth and in one mile
reaches Coventry.
ROUTE 20.— COVENTRY TO MERIDEN Via ALLESLEY.
Lkavixg Coventrj' by the Birmingham road we reach
Allesley, the church of which situated on a rising ground
encircled by trees is principally in the Early English style.
It contains on the north wall of the nave a tablet to the
memory of Joseph Neale, a captain in the Horse Guards^
second son' of Henry Neale, of Allesley Hall, with the
following curious inscription, made by himself : —
Ah ! poor Joe Neale.
ob : the 20th Sept 1730
agetl 42.
He was a great Bacchanalian, and it is said that his
epitaph was curtailed by his family, and as originally
composed ran thus: —
Ah ! poor Joe Neale
Who loved good ale
For the vvaut of good ale
Here lies poor Joe Neale.
A quarter of a mile south in Allesley Park is the moat
which formerly surrounded an ancient castle, of which the
only other existing relic is the well.
From hence at six miles from Coventrj' tlie road reachea
Meriden.
[ROUTE 21- COYENTEY TO ARBUEY Via CORLEY,
FILLONGLEY, ASD ASTLEY.
Peoceeding- from Coventry by the Radford Road, just
before reaching the Is'uneaton railway the New Bablake
School appears on the left near the Coundon road station.
Thence passing through Radford (one mile and a half) we
reach Keresley (two miles and a half), containing an inn
•called the " Old Shepherd and Shepherdess," which in the
year 1790 was robbed by three men named Farnsworth,
Phillips and Archer, who for this offence were
subsequently executed at Coventrj-. A little further on the
right is the church built in 184:7 in the Early English style,
and from this point the road gradually ascends to Corley ^
(four miles). The Cliurcli, which stands on an eminence
625ft. above the sea level, is a small but interesting
building. The west end was lengthened 10ft. in 1884 in
"the Norman style, the windows in this portion being all of
modern construction. The bell turret is a verj' low and
primitive wooden structure on the roof of the nave. On
the exterior are some curious corbel heads:— south side of
the chancel a fox's head and a female head with curled
locks : north side of the east ■ndndow a homed head of
Satan with a serpent crawling round ; north side of the
chancel a female head in a mitred head dress. The south
door is Norman with diapered moulding in the tympanum.
The nave was a Saxon chapel which in early Norman times
•was enlarged by the removal of the north wall, and the
substitution of Norman columns and arches, the original
Saxon narrow round-headed lights, widely splayed on the
interior, being left on each side to form a clerestory. The
south side east of the door is lighted by two windows, the
first from the west end is about Sin. across deeply splayed,
the wall being about 2ft. lOin. thick with a Saxon
architrave; the second window is a modern insertion.
The nave is separated from the north aisle by two arches
springing from a central Norman pier and eastern and
western responds or half pillars of primitive tj-pe. The
head of an angel with a wing, an animal of some kind,
1 G^el. Cor, a round hill.
shakespeahe's land. 251
and an instrument like a comb, all very rudely sculptured^
appear on the cap of the easternmost pier. The north aisle
appears to have been altered in the 14th century, as the
windows are in the Decorated style. At the east end of
the north wall of the aisle is a piscina with a trefoiled
head. The entrance to the rood loft, which is on the east
side, is only 14in. wide, and has wooden jambs with oak
steps. The chancel arch is of plain Norman type. The
chancel is lighted on each side by two Early English
windows, at the east end is a very graceful modern
Decorated window of three lights, filled with stained glass
representing the Crucifixion, by Heaton, Baines, and Butler,
of London. The easternmost windows on each side are
also filled with stained glass. On the south side is a piscina
with a trefoiled head and on the north side an aumbry.
The font is circular, and apparently of Norman origin, the
lower ijart of the basin have an embattled moulding. The
upper part has cut on it " R.R. 1661 — E.I.C.W.," being
evidently the initials of the churchwardens carved at the
time of the Restoration. The shaft has been restored after
the pattern of the old one, Avhich was perished. On the
south side of the nave next the chancel is a plain oak
reading desk of the Puritan period. The churchyard
contains a very fine wych elm. From a point about a
quarter of a mile distant along the road to Meriden, there
is a remarkably fine view, taking in Billesdon Hill and
Mount Sorrell in Leicestershire, the Shuckburgh hills in
the soutli east of Warwickshire, and the Malvern and
Leckey hills in Worcestershire. On the right of this road is-
a field" termed the Beacon Field, doubtless from having beea
used for signalling purposes in ancient times. At the
Vicarage is a fine old " drawing " table of the pre-
Elizabethan period and portraits of the old Pretender and
his wife, Mary Clementina Sobieski, by Sir Godfrey
Kneller.
From hence a descending road leads through Corley Rocks
to Corley Hall, reputed to be the original of the Hall Farm
in " Adam Bede."^ The house consists of a central block
with gabled projecting wings in the style of the 16tli
century. In front is an Elizabethan garden enclosed by a
brick wall, the entrance gate being flanked by a griffin
" sejant guardant " on each post. On the north-west side
are several fine walnut trees, the remains of "the grand
1 This is only true in a limited sense, the Hall Farm of the novelist,
being evidently a composite creation, made up from more than^ one^
source.
252 SHAKESPEAEES LAND.
double row of walnut trees on the right ol the enclosure "
mentioned in " Adam Bede." In the Drawing Room is a
good 17th century mantlepiece (c. 1680), and the centre
panel of the window contains some heraldic painted
glass with the Tudor Royal Arms, England and France,
quartered, surmounted by the bowed crown introduced in
the reign of Henry VI., and surrounded by fragments of
the motto, " Honi soit qui mal y pense." The balusters of
the stairs are Jacobean, but the doors of the rooms above
are of later date. In the south-east bedroom, which is
panelled, are sixteen verj' curious and verj' interesting
carved iieads of the Jacobean period in medallion form
with mitred frames.
On the face of Burrow^ Hill, adjoining Corley Rocks and
looking north-east, are traces of an early British defensive
work. This appears to have been afterwards utilised by
the Roman troops, who constructed on the plateau above
an oppidum or fortified camp, and enlarged the former
British earthwork towards the north-west and south-east.
The camp is nearly square, containing eight acres and a
half, capable of accommodating about 2.50 cavalry or 1,000
infantry. It is enclosed by a rampart of earth about 30ft.
wide at the base, and now from 3ft. to 10ft. high, having
no perceptible foss or ditch on the plateau except on the
side near the valley. Xo stone appears to have been used
on the top of the ramparts, which were probably of wattling
(wooden stakes interlaced with twigs). It is usual in
Roman fortifications to find four gates, one on each face of
the work. In this case, however, there is only one, on the
north-west side, but this is in some degree accounted for
by there being but one approach. On the south-west,
separate from the ramparts, is a sunken ditch used for the
purpose of watering horses, and as a means of defence ;
inside, nearly in the centre, is a pit fed by a spring which
probably supplied the troops. The fortifications improved
by the Romans on the north-east, consist of two escarpments
and the rampart of the camp, with terraces and trenches on
the curved front of the steep declivity overlooking the
Talley extending some ten chains or more on each side of
the main work, and apparently terminating in the
adjoining hills. These lofty terraces, which vary from 40ft.
to 60ft. in height, would be extremely difficult for besiegers
to scale. There are indications of other smaller fortifications
in the fields on this side of the hill running nearly parallel
1 Gael. Boircann, a large rock, a stony, rocky district.
shakespeaee's laxd. 253
-with the rock, but time and the plough have left few
traces of the original features. At the north-east angle of
the camp, roads have evidently been cut to form a com-
munication between the camp lield and the adjoining farm
house. An entrenched and elevated post like this would be
of great use to the Romans, being 60Uf t. above the sea level,
and commanding an extensive view.
From hence the road descends to Fillongley (six miles).
In the dip on the left, just at the entrance to the village,
upon a small triangle of land formed by two brooks which
flow down from the south and south-east, and unite to form
the apex of the triangle, are the remains of a Castle,
supposed to have been built temp. Edward I., and bearing
signs of having been blown up by gunpowder, only one
small corner-piece being in its primitive position ; all the
other fragments being immense blocks of masonry in
which the original transverse courses of stone are now
Perpendicidar. The Castle was on a small scale, measuring
about 80ft. from north to south, by 50ft. from east to west,
and probably consisted of a single enclosing wall possibly
furnished with a few turrets of inconsiderable size. It
■was anciently the seat of the family of Hastings before they
obtained the Earldom of Pembroke. The church consists
of a massive embattled western tower, nave, chancel, north
chantry chapel, and south porch. The architecture is
principally Early English, the upper stage of the tower and
the clerestory being Perpendicular. The chantry chapel,
which was built by a family named Sadleir, is now used as
a vestry and organ chamber. The font of the 13th century
which stands on a low base, is circular, divided into eight
bulging panels separated by fillets. The church was
restored in 1887 a handsome roof of panelled oak, being
placed over the nave which was at the same time re-pewed,
the woodwork being skilfully carved with the napkin
pattern. In the churchyard are the remains of the shaft of
a 14th century cross on a stone base of three steps. Close
to it is a fine old yew. On the north-east of the chancel
a tombstone to Mary Goward Lea, who died 1860, is
inscribed with the following curious truism : —
And thou art gone, for ever gone,
Because thou art no longer here.
From hence a road to the north east leads in a little more
than two miles and a half to a gate opposite the west lodge
of Arbiiry Park, from whence an avenue, bordered on the
right by a piece of ornamental water prettily fringed with
trees, leads to Astley Castle, which partakes more of the
254 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
character of a defensive manor house than of a castle. It
is surrounded by a moat picturesquely overhung vi-ith
willows, elms, yews and holly and spanned by a bridge
which leads to the front through an arched gateway. The
house, which is built of red sandstone and battlemented, was
erected sometime in the reign of Queen Elizabeth and
occupies the site of an older castle, which was dismantled
in the reign of Queen Mary. The windows are muUioned
and the walls partly covered with ivy, giving the build-
ing a picturesque appearance. The interior has been
modernized and there is no special architectural character
about any portion of it. It was once the property and the
residence of Henrj' Grey, Duke of Suffolk, and coutaihs on
the first landing of the staircase a writing table and an arm
chair belonging to that unfortunate nobleman, who, after
the failure of Wyat's rebellion in which he was engaged,
took refuge here. The table is 28in. long, 20in. wide, and
33in. high and stands on two splayed legs, the cover lifts
off and discloses a tray with compartments. It bears the
following inscription :— " Henry, Marquis Grey and Duke of
Suffolk (father of Lady Jane Grey; had this table and the
chair opposite with him when he was concealed in a hollow
tree standing about two bowshots south west of Astley
Church : He had put himself under the trust of one Under-
wood a keeper of his park at Astley: by whom he was
betrayed and taken by the Earl of Huntingdon and soon
after beheaded on Tower Hill 2ii>l Mary 1555."^ Over the
table is a half length panel portrait of the Duke in a ruff
and felt hat, his hand, which is just visible, grasps the hilt
of a sword. In a room upstairs is a secret hiding place,
the entrance to which is through the floor of a small
cupboard. In Dugdale's diary is the following record
under date of the 16th Januarj', 1646 : — " Astley house in
Warr : shire surprized by my Lo : of Loughborough's forces,
the governour (a shoomaker) and the rest in the house
1 John Fox, who had an intimate acquaintance with Warwickshire, in
his " Acts and Monuments " gives the following additional particulars : — ■
" Item, where njention is made of one Nicholas Underwood to bee the
betraier of the Duke of Sulfolke ; joyne with the said Underwood also
Nicholas Laurence, alias Nicholas Ethell, keejier of Asteley Parke,
who taking npon him and promising to keep the Duke for tno or three
dayes, untUl he might finde some meanes to escape, coureighed him into an
hoUow tree, and after most traiterously bewraied him. This Nicholas
Underwootl dwelleth now at Coton by Nunne Eaton, and Laurence in
Nunne Eaton." Underwoo<i is pre^-iously said to have been "asei-vant"
(not a keeper as in Dugdale), and it seems probable that he held some
-inferior office under Laiuence, alias EtheU, who is here termed the keeper.
shakspeaee"s land. 255
prisoners and caryed away wth most of the armes,
ammunition, &c." Immediately adjoining tlie Castle is
Astley Cliurcli, which is formed out of the remains of a
Collegiate Church founded in the 14th century by Thomas,
Lord de Astley. It had a fine steeple which at night
exhibited a light for the guidance of travellers in the
forest and in consequence acquired the title of the Lantern
of Arden. After the death of the Duke of Suffolk the spire
was stripped of its lead by Adrian Hope, the second
husband of the Duchess, and it subsequently fell, damaging
the western portion of the church and many fine toml3s. The
whole of the west part was afterwards pulled down
about the year 1608-9 and a solid tower was then built at
the end of the old choir, which was converted into a nave,
a chapel previously dedicated to Saint Anne being taken to
form a chancel. The building now consists of a nave,
chancel, western tower, and half timbered north porch.
The tuwer, which is in four stages, contains several
insertions of the old work. The present nave is lighted
on each side by three fine Decorated windows, the
cornice on the north and south being ornamented with
carved shields and flowers. On each side of the interior of
the nave at the east end are nine oak stalls with cinque-
foiled heads, the backs of which are filled with painted
figures carrying in their hands scrolls inscribed with texts,
one bearing' the date 1624. The cornice above is painted
with grapes and the figures are probably intended to
represent the labourers in the vineyard. On the walls
above are a number of 17th century texts painted in frames.
On the north side is a blocked doorw'ay surmounted by
a crocketted ogee arch. The chancel arch has been
constructed out of the old east window of the choir, the
upper portion of the lights now blocked up being visible
above the arch. On the exterior this window was
surmounted by a graceful ogee arch with foliated decora-
tions and over it was a small wheel window now cut off by
the present flat roof. On each side of the arch are elegant
canopied niches. The present flat roof is of panelled oak
ornamented with rich bosses. The east window is
Perpendicular of three lights, and on each side is another
window in the same style containing fragments of old
painted glass. The chancel is fitted with oak stalls, four on
each side, with triangular canopies. On the floor is a slab
bearing the following inscription : — " Nudus exiit ut
advenit Richardus Chamberlayne. Sola spe restat. Qui
obiit vi die Novemb. An Dni 1654." The font is Norman of
256 shakespeabe's land.
octagonal form with an embattled moulding round the rim.
Under the tower are three recumbent effigies in alabaster.
Those on the south side represent a knight and a lady of
the early part of the reign of Henry VI. They are
probably representations of Sir P^dward Grey and his wife,
Elizabeth, granddaughter and heiress of Lord Ferrers, of
Groliy, the grandfather and grandmother of the first
Marquis of Dorset. The knight is l)areheaded with his
hair cropped round like that of the Earl of Warwick in the
Beauchamp Chapel. His head rests on a helmet of which
the crest and upper part are broken off. He wears a collar
of "SS"^ and a shirt of chain mail, which appears
above the breast-plate. The whole of the armour, which is
minutely finished is nearly a counterpart of that of Richard
Beauchamp at War^'ick. The feet rest upon a lion. The
lady is attired in a garment which reaches from the
shoulders to the knees, and is cut out at the sides, over this
is a mantle, and round her neck is a large necklace with a
large jewel in front, below which is a collar hanging over
her bosom, connected by a trefoil shaped ornament. On
her head, which rests on a cushion supported by angels, is
a circlet or coronet, and her hair hangs down to her hips.
The effigy on the north side has the features entirely
defaced, and the hands and arms broken off. The head
rests upon a pillow supported by angels, the lappets of the
head dress hang down each side, and the draperj'is flowing
and beaiitiful. Close to her feet on the left side is a small
dog, represented bounding forward and holding the hem of
her robe. This church is the " Knebley Church " depicted
in "Mr. Gilfils Love Storj-" by George Eliot. In the
vicinity is " the Duke's farm," on which stood the tree in
which the Duke of Suffolk was concealed.
From hence entering Arbury Park by Astley Lodge, we
proceed along a charming avenue through Hawk's Wood to
South. Farm (one mile and a half), at which Mary Anne Evans,
better known as Geonje EJiut. was born, November 22nd,
181U. The house, which is a small farm house of one bay
with a gabled east ^ving, coated with rough cast, stands in a
pleasant situation a short distance to the right of the Park
1 The " Collar of SS " formed of S shaped links in gold on a blue and
white libbou is stUl worn by the Lord Chief Justice, the Lord Mayor, the
Heralds, and the Serjeants-at-Arms. It was anciently the most celebrated
knightly decoration next to the Garter, and was introduced by Henrj- IV.,
who derived it from the initial letter of the motto on his badge when Earl
of Derby and Duke of Lancaster. Tliis badge consisted of an ostrich
feather upright wound about four times by a scroll inscribed
" So-ve-rey-g:ie."
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 257
road to Griff. Mr. Kobert Evans, the father of George
Eliot, was agent for the Arbury Estate, and Avhile his
daughter was still a child, removed to a larger house at
Gritf, in which his son, Mr. Isaac Pearson Evans, died in
1890. Half a mile north of South Farm is Arbury, the
seat of General Neicdiyate-Ne^cdeyal e, which stands in
the centre of a park covering some 300 acres, beautifully-
timbered, and stocked with fallow deer. The site was
originally covered by an Augustinian monastery, founded in
the reign of Henry II., which at the dissolution was granted
to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. The manor after-
wards passed by inheritance to Margery, wife of John
Kersey, and was next sold to Sir Edmund Anderson, Cbief
Justice of the Common Pleas in the reign of Elizabeth, who
demolished the old building and erected a quadrangular
house in its stead. In 1586 it was conveyed to John
Xewdegate, of Harefield, Middlesex, in exchange for other
lands, and in the last century it was converted into a
Gothic mansion by Sir Roger Xewdigate. This he
accomplished by casing the house with stone in the style
he adopted, building a cloister inside the quadrangle, and
metamorphosing the interior as far as possible in harmony
with the outside. The result is naturally unsatisfactory
from an artistic point of view, though the house seen at a
little distance has an imposing effect, and is delightfully
situated on the margin of some pools of ornamental water
communicating with one another at different levels. The
Stables of bricfk with stone dressings, said to have been
designed by Inigo Jones remain untouched, and are a
remarkably fine specimen of Jacobean work with a porch
added by Sir Christopher Wren in 1674. The entrance to
the house is on the north side, from whence a hall com-
municates with the cloisters, which lead to the principal
apartments. The house is filled with art treasures, a large
part of which were accumulated by Sir Roger Xewdigate
(1719-1806, the "Sir Christopher Cheverel " of "Mr Gilfil's
Jbove Story" by George Eliot). In the Library are exquisite
pastels of Sir Roger Xewdigate and his first wife, neS
Sophia Conyers, taken circa 1742. The Dining Hall is a
lofty apartment with a vaulted plaster ceiling, ornamented
with fan tracery. The fireplace of steel and brass is a
beautiful specimen of Louis XIV. work, it has fluted steel
legs with an ogee-shaped canopy ribbed with crocketted
brass, terminating in a finial formed of a large acorn.
Over the sideboard is the top of a sarcophagus brought
from Rome and sculptured with the marriage of Bacchus
K
1
258 SHAKEISPBAEE S LAND.
and Ariadne. There are two fine tables and an etagere of
late Elizabethan type with bulging legs, the latter bearing
the initials J.N. with the date 1607. In the Corridor outside
the Dining Hall is a portrait of Archbishop Sheldon by
Lely, and a curious old painting of Christ on the way to
Crucifixion accompanied by the two thieves, one of the
latter being in the act of being shriven by a friar. The
Saloon is another lofty apartment with a ceiling in imitation
of Henry VII.'s Chapel at Westminster. It is lighted by a
handsome bay window, the heads of which are filled with
exquisite iron work of the Louis XIV. period. The prospect
from hence is very lovely, the lawn being hemmed in by
beautiful cedars, yews and other fine trees sloping down
to the water's edge. The pictures in this room comprise : —
Portrait supposed to be the "Earl of Derby" by Lely^
very fine full length portraits of " Sir Roger Newdigate "
and his second wife " Hester," daughter of Edward Mundy,
of Shipley, by Romnev ; full lengtli portrait of " Mr. C. N.
Newdegate, M.P.," painted in 1857 by Lap ; "The Hon. Mrs.
Conyers," mother of Sophia, first wife of Sir Roger
Newdigate ; "Charles II. and .James II." by Lelij ; " The Earl
of Chichester and Lady Chichester," Leb/; and " Sir Richard
Newdigate " (1602-1678) also by Leli/^ A fine statuette of th&
Saviour, unfortunately fractured, is said to be by Michael
Anyelo. There is a handsome mosaic table brought from
Italy, and two cabinets, one inlaid with lapis lazuli and
tortoiseshell, and the other a pretty specimen of Japanese
work ornamented with flowers. In the centre of the room
is a fine crystal chandelier of Louis XIV. type. The fire-
place is of the same character as that in the Dining Hall
though not so large or so elaborate. The seats of the stool*
and chairs were worked by Lady Newdigate. The Drawing
Soom, which faces south, overlooking the ornamental water
with trees in the distance, forming a charming scene,
contains several full length portraits : — " Sir Richard
Newdigate" (1602-1678) created Serjeant-at-Law in 1653,
judge in 1654, and chief justice in 1659; "Juliana," his
wife, daughter of Sir Francis Leigh, in a sitting position, a
fine picture by Lely ; " John Skeffington," Viscount
Massereene (died 1695), Lely. " Sir Richard Levison,"
Admiral in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Van Dyck ;
"Mary," wife of the second Sir Richard Newdigate and
daughter of Sir Edward Bagot, Lely. In the Cloisters are
Tlie receipt* given by Sir Peter Lely for the payments for these pictures
are pieserTed iu the Miuiinieut Room.
shakespeaee's land. 259
portraits of " Sir Roger Newdigate," " Sir Richard Newdigate
the Third (1668-1727) and his AVife "; and the " First Sir
Richard" (16U2-1678) ; and "Second Sir Richard" (1644-
1710;, as little boys. Here also is the very curious old
painting engraved by Dugdale, representing " The combats
betwixt Sir lohn de Astley and Peter de Masse, 143b," and
" The combate in Smithfeilde betwixt Sir John de Astley
and Sir Philip Boyle, 3U Jan. Anno Dom 1441." It was
presented in 1773 by Sir John Astley to Sir Roger
Newdigate. The Ante Koom opening into the Saloon
contains some beautiful pastels:— *' Elizabeth," wife of
the third Sir Richard Newdigate, and mother of Sir Roger ;
" A Daughter of Elizabeth Lady Newdigate "; " A Son and
another Daughter of Elizabeth Lady Newdigate " who died
joung ; a portrait in oil of " Mr. Boucherett" by »SV/' T.
Lawrence ; and an unfinished picture of " Mrs. Boucherett "
by the same artist ; " A Dead Baby," son of Sir Richard
Newdigate, supposed to have been smothered by his nurse,
by Cosier man; portraits of "General NeAvdegate" by Miller,
and of "Mrs. Newdegate" by Boxall. This room also
contains a mirror in a frame beautifully carved with bull-
rushes by OrinliMj Gibbons. The Chapel Bedroom on the
ground floor contains some fine inlaid chairs, and a curious
old bed with a painted top and shafted mahogany posts.
The Chapel, consecrated by Archbishop Sheldon (Arch-
bishop of Canterbury 1663-1678) is panelled throughout,
and contains in the window a fragment of old glass
representing the Royal Arms. Two of the panels at the
upper end are festooned with flowers elaborately carved,
and the remainder are beautifully ornamented with fruit,
€ach of a different kind by Grinling Gibbons. From the
Gallery a very fine view is obtained of the North Lodge,
looking along the avenue cut through the woods. Tliis
apartment is panelled with oak which has unfortunately
been coated with paint, and contains a fine stone chimney-
piece. It abounds with curiosities of various kinds,
amongst others being two marble jars at the entrance,
said to contain human dust, and an old double banked
spinet made in 1765 by Jacob Kirckman, of London.
The most noteworthy feature of the gallery is however
a series of Elizabethan panel portraits kit-cat size.
These comprise " Lady Elizabeth Graye," ancestress of the
Earls of Stamford; " Queen Elizabeth"; "Anne, wife of Sir
John Newdegate," 1598 ; " Penelope," daughter of Sir Edward
Fitton, wife of Sir C. Gerard, and mother of the first
Lord Macclesfield (on canvas) ; " Sir Edmund Anderson,"
260* Shakespeare's land.
Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, 1582-1603, the-
original builder of Arbury, who exchanged the site of the-
monastery and possessions with John Newdegate ; a small
portrait of " Ann Fitton, Lady Newdegate, and her son,
John,"' who died 1642 ; "Sir Francis Fitton"; and a valuable-
picture of " Geoffrey Chaucer,"' with his arms in the lett
corner. The first of the two Clouded Chambers has a fire-place
embellished with beautiful Wedgwood medallions on blue
ground designed by Flaxman, the second contains an Italian
oak armoire and a swing cheval glass both beautifully inlaid..
From the windows of Mrs. Newdegate's Morning Room there
is a charming prospect of the park. This room contains-
several old family miniatures, a curious old panel painting
of " The Tower of Babel," one of the pictures of Christ,
"copied from an old emerald presented to Pope Innocent
VIII., by the Grand Turk," and a pencil sketch of " Mrs.
Parker," by Sir T. Lawrence. Outside in the Lobby is a
replica of the infant " St. John " by Sir Joshua Reijnoldsx.
The Drawing Eoom Chamber contains thirteen family portraits
in chalk (including a pleasing portrait of the late "Mrs.
Newdegate") by Sir Thomas Laivrence, who was a great friend
of the family. The Kitchen formed part of the old monastery.
In the Housekeeper's Room is a fine stone mantel-piece of
the year 1600, carved with the maxim, "Truste in God and
feare him with all thy hart." The initials " I & N " appear
on each side. A description of the room figures ia
Chapter IV. of " Mr. Gilfil's Love Story."
A singular feature in connection with the domestic
arrangements is that for a very long period a drum has been
used for the purpose of summoning the inmates at meal,
times. A similar practice prevails at Blithfield Hall, Rugeley,.
the seat of Lord Bagot, and it is believed that the custom
was introduced from thence in the latter part of the-
17th century by Mary, daughter of Sir Edward Bagot, and
first wife of the second Sir Kichard Newdigate.
From lience the tourist can either proceed northwards-
along the avenue to the North Lodge (one mile), to Nuneaton
(three miles), or southwards to Bedworth (two miles and a
half), and Coventry (eight miles and a half).
Three miles to the east of Arbury is Nuneaton, a pleasantly
situated market town containing a large and fine church
dedicated to St. Nicholas. The original building was prob-
ably constructed by Geoffrey de Wirce, Bishop of Coutances^
in Normandy (died 1092), who commanded the Horse at the
Battle of Hastings, and was governor of Nuneaton after the-
Conquest, as well as Chief Justiciary of Ireland, and Baroa
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 261
of the Exchequer. In the reign of Henry I. the church was
bestowed on the Abbey of Notre Dame de Lyre, near Conches,
in Normandy, by Robert, surnamed Bossu, Earl of Leicester.
The present building, however, dates only from the 14th
century. The south aisle of the chancel, a portion of the north
aisle, and those parts of the chancel, which are not modern,
are of the middle of the 14th century. The nave and aisles
are of the latter part of the 15th century. The aisles are
lofty and the bays are divided by buttresses, the inter-
mediate spaces being nearly entirely filled by windows of
three lights with Tudor-arched heads. In each bay of the
Clerestory are two three-light windows. The roofs are very
low pitched and hidden by battlemented parapets. There
IS no chancel arch and the church fittings and font are
modern. In the east wall of the south aisle is an aumbry,
beneath which is a large grotesque corbel, and at the east
end of the south wall of this aisle is a credence table of the
14th century with a canopy. In a recess of the north wall of
the chancel, is a high tomb with a recumbent eflBgy in armour
of Si>' Mannaduke Constable, who died in 1560, and to whom
Henry YIII. granted the Priory lands at the dissolution.
The following inscription runs round the verge " Here
lyethe Sr- ilarmaduke Constable Knyght w^h. dyed the
XXVIII day of Aprell, i ye yere of or- lord m d &
threscore sone and heyre to S""- Robartt Constable Knyght
lord of Flambourghe & Home upon Spaldyngmore & the
seyd S'- Marmaduke hadde too wyffs Elezabethe
dawght^. to the lord Darsse, by hur he hadde two sonns
Robart & Marmaduke & viii dawghters ye second wj-ff
Margarete Boothe dawhti- of Willm Boothe gente-
On the site of the Old Abbey Clmrch of St. Mary, a new
structure was commenced in 1876, which essays to
reproduce the ancient church as far as its construction
can be ascertained.
One mile south of Nuneaton, is the church of Chilvers
Coton, the "Shepperton" of Mr. Gilfil's love story.
The building consists of chancel, nave, north chancel aisle,
north and south aisles, with a tower at the west end. The
south aisle and part of the chancel appear to have been
built late in the 13th century. They were restored in
1890 when the north chancel aisle was added. The tower is a
good example of Perpendicular work of the early part of the
15th century. The rest of the church is "Gothic" of
the year 1837. On the east wall of the south aisle
is the following memorial tablet "Sacred to the memory
262 shakespeake's land.
of Bernard Gilpin Ebdell,^ B.A., Forty two years resident
vicar of this parish ; He died August 6th, 1828 aged 66
years, also of Sarah^ wife of Bernard Gilpin Ebdell. She
died Nov. 21st 1823 aged 49 years." Mary Anne Evans
(Georc/e Eliut) was baptised here by Mr. Ebdell, November
29th, 1819, and her father, mother and brother are buried in
the churchyard.
Proceeding onwards in a mile we come to Griff House,
a large brick dwelling on the right standing in its own
grounds close to the railway bridge of the Coventry and
Nuneaton Railway. Mr. Robert Evans, the father of
George Eliot removed here in March, 1820, while she was
still an infant and continued to reside here till 1841,
after which it was inhabited by his son, Mr. Isaac Pearson
Evans, who is understood to have been the original of
Tom Tulliver in " The Mill on the Floss." A portrait of
Mr. Robert Evans, designated in the family as " Adam
Bede," is preserved in the house, together with a well-
tinished oak press of his workmanship. Mr. Isaac Evans
died here in October, 1890.
From hence in another mile and a half we reach
Bedworth, containing a church with a fine tower of the
15th century attached to a modern body.
Two miles further and one mile to the west of the main
road is Exhall, containing a church consisting of chancel,
nave with north and south aisles, western tower and south
porch. The chancel has some small remains of the 13th
century. The north aisle is of the year 1609 and of Tudor
type. In each of its gables are shields with the arms of
the Hales, of Newland,' which makes it appear probable
that a member of this family built the aisle. The tower is
of the 15th century of an ordinary Warwickshire type.
The south aisle, porch, and the roof and church fittings are
of the year 1843.
At seven miles from Nuneaton we reach Foleshill,
containing a church of little interest, the tower of late 15th
century type being apparently the oldest part of the building ;
1, 2 These are the originals of Mr. Gilfil and Caterina. While the
novelist has taken a few liberties with the facts, the descriptions are said
to be accurate in the main. The original of Caterina was Sally
Shilton, a ooUier's daughter, who had a beautiful voice, which was
cultivated by Lady Newdlgate, Sir Roger's second wife, who brought
her up at Aibury. She married Mr. EbdeU in 1801.
3 Of the ancient family of Hales, of Hales Place, in Kent, having a
residence at Newland Hall, or Manor House, here of which some small
remains still exist.
SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
263
the north aisle is of the 16th century with domestic looking
Tudor windows and the re&t is nondescript. The font is of
good Norman type. From hence in two miles we reach
Coventry.
EOUTE 22.— COVENTRY TO KL^GBY Via STOKE,
CALUDON, SOWE, BINLEY, BRETFORD, KING'S
NEWNHAM AND CHURCH LAWFORD.
Leaving Coventry by the Hinckley road in one mile and
a half we reach the village of Stoke, the church of which
consists of a western tower, nave, aisles, chancel, and
south porch. The tower, western part of the nave and
aisles are late 14th century work, the chancel was rebuilt
in 1861, when the nave and aisles were also extended east-
wards. The font is octagonal of the 14th century. In one
of the south windows is a fragment of ancient painted glass
with the name of " Hollies ;" apparently a memento of Sir
William Hollies, Lord Mayor of London in 1539, who was
born here.
Proceeding onwards at three miles a little to the right
of the road, we arrive at the ruins of Calndon Castle, built
in 1305 by John de Segrave, who obtained a licence to
crenellate in that year. In the reign of Edward III., his
grandson left an only daughter, who married John de
Moubray, Duke of Norfolk, on whom the lordship devolved.
In September, 1397, his son Thomas lodged here prior to his
intended combat with the Duke of Hereford on Gosford
Green, for which he set out on the day assigned "on a horse
barded with crimson velvet, embroidered with lions of silver
and mulberry trees." During the 15th or 16th centuries the
Castle become ruinous, but was restored by Henry Lord
Berkley about 1579, and was added to by Lady Elizabeth,
widow of Sir Thomas Berkley in 1597. It subsequently
again fell into disrepair, and about 1790 the present farm
house on its site was built of some of the materials. The
remains now consist of a portion of the north-west wall of
the banquetting hall, which exhibits two large Decorated
windows of early 14th century date, with two smaller ones
below, and the jambs of two others, one on each extremity
of the wall. There are considerable traces of the moat, a
barn apparently of the 15tli century, and in the field to the
south-east evidences of a very early earthwork, probably
Roman. Half a mile further is the village of Sowe, or
Walsgrave-on-Sowe, having a very interesting church of the
^'
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 265
15th centurj', containing an original south door of oak with
a lock in good preserA^ation, a rood loft staircase only 14in.
wide, a piscina in the south wall of the chancel, and a 12th
century font. The register has the following curious entry
under the date of 1623 : —
Who let this booke be lost,
And doth embeasell yt,
God's curse will, to his cost
Give him plagiaes in hell, titt.
From hence a road leads southward to Binley, containing
a church built in 1772 in the Classical style.
At a distance of one mile and three-quarters north-east
of Binley, is Combe A'obey, which was the first monastery of
the Cistercian order established in Warwickshire, and
founded in the reign of King Stephen by Eichard de
Camvill. At the dissolution it was granted to John, Earl
of Warwick, and after his attainder, a lease of it was
granted to Robert Kelway, whose sole daughter Anne
married John Harington, afterwards first Baron Harington.
This latter was entrusted with the guardianship of the
Princess Elizabeth, eldest daughter of James I., born in
1596, and afterwards Queen of Bohemia, who was residing
here at the time of the Gunpowder Plot, and was
temporarily removed to Coventry for safety. On the death
of Lord Harington's son without issue, the estate was sold
to the widow of Sir William Craven, a merchant tailor of
London, who rose to be Lord Mayor in 1611, The eldest
son of Sir William was created Baron Craven, and devoted
himself to the service of the Queen of Bohemia, who in return
bequeathed him the few books and pictures she possessed,
none of them however of any great value. The present man-
sion consists of buildings erected at different periods round
the cloisters of the old Abbey. Portions of three sides of
the cloisters still remain. The east side is of 12th century
date, and contains the entrance to the chapter house. The
north and west sides are of the 15th century, to which Lord
Harington added a half-timbered upper story, the outer
ends of the wings being constructed of stone. To this,
large additions, said to have been designed by Inigo Jones,
were made towards the close of the 17th century. These
included a west wing, the whole of which, except the
entrance to the chapter house, was taken down in 1864, and
replaced by the present west wing, the character of which
is unfortunately glaringly inconsistent with the remaining
portions of the Abbey. The house is inaccessible to visitors,
having been untenanted for some time, and the park
being let out as grazing ground.
266 shakespeaee's laxd.
From hence iu three miles aud a half Tve reach Bretford
on the north bank of the Avon, an old market to'ma of
the smallest size. Kunnintj northwards from this place is
an ancient British covered -way or lane called Tutbury Lane,
having little more than the width of a ditch, and designed
as an ambush from which a sally could be made upon an
invader advancing along the adjacent Foss road. Proceed-
ing onwards, we next arrive at King's Newnham (five miles),
which contained a church demolished at the end of the last
centuiy, and the sole relic of which is now an ivy
covered tower. During some excavations ou the site in
1852, four coffins were discovered, containing the bodies of
Francis, Earl of Chichester, died 1653 ; his wife, Audrey,
died 1652 ; their daughter, Lady Audrey Leigh, died 1640 ;
and Sir John Anderson, son of Lady Chichester by her first
husband. There is a chalybeate spring here of some
celebrity, over which a bath has been built from which
people suffering from rheumatism and other complaints are
said to derive considerable benefit. It is stated to have
been discovered in 1579 by one Clement Dawes, "who
having received a great wound in his arm by a
hatchet, by washing it in this water, within a few
day's space, it was perfectly whole." Half a mile south is
Cliurcli Lawford, the church of which in the late Decorated
style was re-built and enlarged 1S72-1874. In the south
wall of the nave is placed a memorial stone with an
inscription to "Tho. Evans, gentleman born at Henlam in
ye coun. of Denbigh who attended on ye great seale of
England as ordinaire messenger about XX'X years, about L
years one of y^ ordinairj'e messengers of y® receipt." He
died August 12th, 1612, aged 78. The ancestors of President
Garfield, of the United States, lived here, the registers
dating from the year 1575, being full of their names. A
mile and lialf from this the road passes Long Lawford, near
which is Little Lawford, situated on the Avon. Here stood
Lawford Hall, the property of the Boughton Family, in
which Sir Theodosius Boughton was poisoned with laurel
water. August 21st. 1780. by his lirother-in-law. Captain
John Donellan, for which the latter was afterwards hanged
at Warwick. The family sold the estate in 1793, and the
house was subsequently pulled down. From hence Eugby
is reached in another two miles.
EOUTE 23.— LEAMINGTON TO EUGBY Via PRINCE-
THORPE AND BILTON.
Quitting Leamington we pass through Lillin^on, and then
travelling along a leafy road, we leave the village of Cub-
bington on the right, and soon after passing Weston Hall on
the same side, enjoy a series of distant views, taking in the
spires of Coventry. At four miles we reach on the left
the Churcli of "Weston-under-Weatherley, which consists of
nave, chancel, north aisle, chantry chapel, south porch, and
embattled western tower. The north aisle and tower to
the belfry story are Early English, the upper part of the
tower being of the 15th century. The chancel was
lengthened and altered in the 14th century, and the chapel
was erected in the 15th century, when the walls of the
aisle were raised and two -windows inserted on a highf^r
level. In the noHh aisle is a sepulchral arch probably
intended to enclose a founder's tomb, and the south wall of
the chancel contains a credence table. On the east wall of
the chwHtry chapel is an interesting monument of Classical
design to »S'i> Edward Saunders, Recorder of Coventry in
1542, Lord Chief Justice 1.557-1558, Chief Baron of the
Exchequer 1559-1576, and his wife Margery, who died 1563.
The upper part contains a representation of the Resurrection
and Ascension, while the lower has kneeling figures 12in.
high of the husband in a scarlet robe on one side, and the
wife on the other, both the effigies being unfortunately head-
less, owing to the iconoclastic zeal of Colonel Purefoy in
1642. On the north wall is a tablet erected 1584 to
Margery and Mary% only children of Thomas Morgan, who
died 1568. On the floor is a brass with the following
inscription : — " Here lyeth Anne danet wyf of Gerard danet
Gentilman doughter & oon of the heiresof John Huggefford
lorde of Edmondescote Wolffrichston & merston wapenbury
Wolston & Cythorp in the countes of Warr & lej'st r
which Anne decessed the xviij day of August the yere of o
lod god Mocccclxxxxvii. On whose soules Jhu haue mcy
Amen." On the south side of the chancel is a brass plate
with a Latin inscription, and the following lines to Joyce
Tomer, died 1566 :—
Heare lyeth Joyce Tomer slayne by deatli
What had of pysycke skylle
Whose losse these comfortes Saunders shewed
Afl tokens of goodwyll.
268 Shakespeare's land.
The font of the 14th century is octagonal, the alternate
faces being concave with four sculptured heads round the
base of the bowl.
A little further on to the right is the Warwickshire
Reformatory for Boys, established in 1856, on a small farm
of ninety acres, and containing on an average about eighty
inmates. A mile further a road on the right turns off to the
village of Wapenbury (a quarter of a mile distant), which con-
tains a small church principally in the Early English style.
Proceeding from hence through the hamlet of Eathorpe, the
village of Marton (two miles and a half) may be reached.
It contains a church rebuilt in the year 1871, with the
exception of the tower, the lower part of which is of
the 13th century, and the belfry of the 14th. The old
south doorway has also been incorporated in the new
building. The stone bridge over the Leam here is very
interesting. With its approaches it is 100 yards in
length, with a breadth of 18ft., and consists of two central
arches of pointed character, with a flood arch on each
side at a distance of about 10 yards ; the central part
over the river being 42ft. long with a height above the
water of 12ft. It was built in the reign of Henry V.
by John Middilton, a wealthy mercer of London and a
native of the village, who desired to free the inhabitants
from a toll levied for a former bridge. In the tremendous
storm of November, 1703, a great rick of wheat in this
village was blown off its staddles and set down undisturbed
at a distance of twenty yards.
Two miles south east of Marton is the very interesting
church of Leamington Hastings, standing in a picturesque
churchyard containing a very handsome chesnut tree
and seven large yews. The church consists of nave,
chancel, north and south aisles, north and south porches,
and embattled western tower. The oldest part is appar-
ently the south arcade, as far as the third pier from the east
end, and is probably of the 13th century ; the mouldings
of the easternmost capitals being enriched by a nail head
ornament, characteristic of that period. The noHh aisle,
which originally formed a Franciscan chapel distinct from
the church, was built about the middle of the 14tli century,
the corbel table under the eaves of the roof being supported
by a series of grotesque heads. The north doorway is a
very beautiful example of the period, with small attached
jambs, beautifully moulded ogee arch with vine leaf enrich-
ment and a finialled canopy. The window at the west end
is of three lights with net tracery. The east and north
Shakespeare's land. 269
■windows of three lights have each modern flowing tracery.
In the easternmost bay is a low-side window of one light
Tvith graceful trefoiled ogee arch. The south aisle, though
also of the 14th century, is probably of a later date. The
windows, and those on the north and south sides of the
•chancel, are all of two lights with square heads, some
appear to be original and others are modern imitations.
The east window is of three lights with trefoiled cusped
heads under a square head. Over it is the date 1677, cut
in the stone. The po)-ch on the south side is partly made
up of old materials. The date of its erection, 1703, with the
names of the churchwardens, is cut in a stone over the arch.
The tower is of the 16th century. At the south east end of the
north aisle, next to the pulpit, is the ancient entrance to the
rood loft. The upper part of the pulpit, which is octagonal,
is made up of old oak panels, enriched with Perpendicular
tracery, taken from the rood screen, the base is carved with
the linenfold pattern. The font, which is hexagonal, is of
late 15th century design. "The vestry, at the west end
the north aisle, is enclosed by a screen of Jacobean pattern,
and the reading desk and Sacrarium contain good chairs
of the same period. In the south aisle is a very large old
oak chest. On the north side of the Sacrarium is a mural
monument with a characteristic bust in an oval concave
frame, and an inscription to Sir Thomas Trevor, one of the
Barons of the Exchequer in the reign of Charles I. who died
in 1656. At the west side of it hang an heraldic helmet,
gauntlet and sword. On the opposite side ol the chancel on
a slab supported by brackets and garnished in front with
two death's heads, are two busts, with an inscription to Sir
Thomas Trevor, bart., who died 1676, and to Mary, his
widow, who died 1695.
In the middle of the south side of the chancel is a large
altar slab recessed in the wall with an inscription to
the memory of John Allington, a former vicar, who died in
1682. On the floor at the entrance is a slab commemorative
of Sarah Stockly, who died 1672, aged 28, with the follow-
ing touching lines ; —
A mother sadly thus described
Her babe she saw, kist, blest and dyed.
During the great storm of November 27th, 1703, the nave
was stripped of lead from end to end, the sheets being said
to be rolled up like a piece of cloth ; some of these sheets
were carried a distance of fifty yards on the north side
where they struck off the arm of a tree whicii they
encountered, and one of the sheets was found twisted round
the body of the tree.
270 shakespeaee's land.
In the churchyard -wall, opposite the west door, is a late
Perpendicular doorway leading to the grounds of the
ancient mansion of which some small remains still exist
among many modern alterations and additions. A little
distance to the south-east of the church are some almshouses
bearing a tablet recording the recoA'erj- by Sir Thomas-
Trevor, in the year 1633, of the endowments which had
been unjustifiably withheld for 26 years by four persons,
whom he prosecuted.
Eesuming our route along the main road at six miles we
reacli the gates of the Benedictine convent of St. Mary, at
Princethorpe, erected in 1833, by the community formerly
located at Orrel Mount, in Lancashire, and driven from
Montargis at the time of the French revolution in 1792.
Soon after quitting Princethorpe the fine church of Stretton-
on-Dimsinore' is visible some distance on the left, and
about a mile from the village a road on the right
conducts to the village of Frankton (one mile), and Birding^
bury (two miles). Frankton contains a church which is
nearly wholly modern, with the exception of the tower,
the lower part of which is late 12th or early 13th century
work with a belfry of the 15th century. At Birdingbury,
is a small church largely re-built in 1876, and containing a
pulpit of the Georgian period T\-ith panels inlaid with walnut
and sandal wood. A mile further along the main road on the
same side, another lane leads to the village of Bourton-on-
Dunsmore, the church of which has been thoroughly renovated.
The north transept and south aisle contain piscinas. In the
transept are numerous slabs commemorating the Shuck-
burgh family, and standing on end is a much damaged
effigy, once recumbent of a female in a long flowing robe,
apparently of the 15th century. The remains of the stairs-
to the rood loft are still visible. Eesuming our progress-
along the main road we enter upon a picturesque stretch
known as the " straight mile." Near the end of this on the
left hand side, close to the junction with the Dunchurch
and Coventry road (10 miles), is the traditionary- haunt of
the monstrous and destructive Dun Cow- four yards high and
1 Tliis church is entirely moderu and was erected in 1S35 from designs by
Ricknian.
2 A so-called rib of the Dun Coir, 6ft. in length, was formerly exhibited
in the Porter's lodge at Warwick Castle, and is now preserved in Cajsar's
Tower there- It has been examined by Sir WLUiam Flower, Director of the
Natur.-*! Histoiy Museum, who pronoiuices it to be nnmistakeably the rib of
a whale, probably that of a sperm whale, but the exact identification of the
species- is unfortunately uncertain, owing to both ends having been broken
off, and tlie fractured siu-faces being rubbed and worn in such a way as to-
Shakespeare's land. 271
six long, slain by Guy, Earl of Warwick, the earliest
mention of which is made by Dr. Cains, in 1570, in his rare
work " De Rariorum Animalium Historia Libellus." J'ro-
ceeding onwards at 12 miles we reach the village of Bilton.
In the centre of the green is the lower part of the stone
shaft of an ancient market cross. On the right is the Manor
House, the residence of R. H. Shiickburgli, Esq., the dining
room of which contains some good family pictures.
" Frances, Lady Moore,"' by Lely, " Colonel Richard Shuck-
burgh and his Wife," by Michael Dahl. Two fine full-
length portraits of John Shuckburgh (died 1837) and his
Wife, by 8amuel Woodforde, R.A. The "Rev. C.B. Shuck-
burgh," by Pickers(/tU. R.A., and a fine portrait of "Dr.
AVillis," physician to Cleorge III., by Woodforde. In the
drawing room is an attractive picture of the " Madonna
and Child," attriljuted to Peruf/ino.
Further on the left, close to the church, is Bilton Hall, the
residence of the Misses Bridgeman-Simpson, rendered
famous as the abode of Joseph Addison, the poet and
essayist. The property, in the reign of P]lizabeth, belonged
to John Shuckborough, whose son Henry, early in the reign
of James I, sold it to Edward Boughton, of Lawford, who,
between 1604 and 1623, erected the oldest parts of the house,
comprising the gabled front which carries a tablet with the
latter date on the upper story over the porch. In 1712, in
contemplation of his marriage with the Countess of War-
wick, Addison purchased the mansion from the Bougliton
family, Avith aliout 1,000 acres of land for .£8,000, and made
considerable alterations in it. He took out the Jacobean
suggest that tlie bone had been for some time tossing about upon the beach
as often happens with the bones of whales which have been stranded or died
at sea. Tliis rib is stated by Dr. Cains to have been kept in the chapel
at Guy's Clilf, in the year 1552, and seems to have been transferred to
Warwick Castle at some period prior to 163i, at which time it was
■certainly there. The bladebone of the Dun Cow which was in ancient
times hung \ip at tlie North Gate of Coventry, is now in the possession of
Mr. W. G. Fretton, F.S.A., of that city, and appears also to have belonged to
a whale. In the Church of St. Mary Redcliffe, at Bristol, is the rib of
a cow whale, measuring 9ft. lin. long, by 12jin. in girth at the base,
regarding which the following enti-y occurs in the city records "1497 Item
Pd for seitynge upp ye bone of ye bigge fyshe and (illegible) hys worke
brote over seas vjd. For two rynuis of iron iiij d." It is stated to have
been presented to the Corporation as a trophy by Sebastian Cabut, who
had just discovered IS ewfoundland, and was afterwards popularly termed
" The Dun Cow's rib," and reputed to be a rib of the monstrous animal
killed by Guy. How or why it acquired this title does not seem to be
known, but looking to the identical character of these bones it seems
highly probable that they all came from the same animal or from +;iinilar
sources at the same time.
2lZ SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
mullioned ■svincloT\-s in the garden front, substituting sash
•svindoTNs in the French style then in vogue, and at the
same time built the south -wing on that side of the house,
and laid out the garden. On the 9th of August, 1716, he
married Charlotte, Countess Dowager of Warwick and
Holland, by whom he had issue, a daughter, Charlotte.
Addison died on the 17th June, 1719, at Holland House,
Kensington, and his wife afterwards resided at Bilton Hall
until her death in 17ol, after which her daughter occupied it
up to her decease in 1797 and bequeathed it to the Hon.
John Bridgeman-Simpson. In the early part of the century
the house was tenanted by Charles James Apperley (1777-
1843j, a well-known sporting writer who assumed the nom
de plume of "Ximrod," and Mr. Vernon, an Anglo-Saxon
scholar. About 1825 some alterations were made to the
garden front, the gable to the right having been rebuilt
with a bay window. The approach to the house was
formerly through an avenue of elms at the commencement
of which were iron gates, now removed to the back of the-
house, and the entrance has been diverted to a point near
the church. The collection of paintings in the house is fine
and valuable, and specially interesting from the fact that
they were placed here by Addison himself : —
■DisiXG Room. — Pull length portraits : " George Villiers," first Duke of
Buckingham (1592-1621), iiV Balthazar Gerbier ; " King James I.," Marc
Garrard; "William Lord Crofts," (died 1670), guardian of the young
Duke of Monmouth, D. ilyten^ ; "Sir Thomas Mvddleton," of Chirk
Castle (died 1683), father of Charlotte, Countess of Warwick (half-length),
Rilii/; " James," first Duke of Hamilton (beheaded 1649) School of Van
Dyck- ; " Prince Rujiert," (1019-16S2) Htv.ry Stone after Van Dyc/c ; " Prince
Maurice" (1620-j6£4), Htnry Stone aStsx Van Dycl: ; "Robert, Earl of
Warwick," (died le.'iS), brother of Henry, first Earl of Holland.
Staircase. — Portraits : Equestrian portrait of " Charles I. with his-
Equerry." Stone, after Van Dyc/c; "Anne of Austria," (1602-1666);.
" Queen of Louis XIII of France," Hignard.
Dkawixg Room. — " James Craggs the yoxinger. Secretary of State
(1717-1721)," Kneller ; " Heneage Finch, Eail of ><ottingham " (died 1726),
MichoilDahl; "Mrs. Combes, Addison's sister;" "Sir John Vanbrugh.
the architect and author (c. 1666-1726)," Simon Verelst ; "Charlotte,
Countess of Warw'ck," Kneller ; "Edward Henry Rich, Earl of War-
wick (1697-1721), stepson of Addison," Michael Sahl ; "Arabella Stuart
(c. 1575-1616)," Van Soiner : "Henry Rich. Earl of Holland (beheaded
1649)," Van Dyck : " Dorothy, Countess of Leicester," and "Lucy, Coun-
tess of Carlisle, daughters of Henry, 9th Earl of Xorthumberlaud (the
Wizard Earl)," Lely : " Lady Isabella Thynne, daughter of Henry, first
Earl of Holland, and wife of Sir James Thynne." Henry Stone; "The
Earl of Warwick," Kneller: "A lady unknown," Lely: "The Earl of
Holland when a boy," Michael Dahl.
Library. — " Addison," Knelkr : " Miss Addison set 5," Kndlir : " Gus-
tavus Adulphus (1594-1682}," Mierevelt.
The garden at the back is laid out in the formal taste
SHAKESPEARE S LAXD. 'J 1 6
of the earlj' part of the 18th century. On the riglit, open-
ing into a tield called the Old Close, are the iron gates -^vhicli
formerly ornamented the entrance to the mansion. They
bear on the top the initials J. A. and C. W. (Joseph Addison
and Charlotte Warwick), quaintly intertwined. There is
a seat at the bottom of the garden which is said to have
been a favourite with Addison, and at the side of the walk
leading from it is a Cedar of Cyprus, said to have been
planted by him. The hedges, which are of massive size,,
are of holly on one side and of yew on the other. The
whole place bears a delightful air of repose and has a quaint
and charming old world aspect.
The Clmrcli, which originally consisted of an embattled
western tower with an octagonal spire, a nave, and chancel,.
is in the Decorated style throughout, and has been restored
in excellent taste, a north aisle and vestry being added
at the same time. Most of the fittings and windows are of
recent construction but in thorough harmony with the
building. At the east end is a good six-light window
inserted in 1872, to replace a window which now stands at
the west end of the aisle. In the north wall adjoining the
altar is the fine ogee-shaped arch of a Holy Sepulchre used
at Easter for the performance of solemn mourning rites ; it
is now blocked up to form the vault of the Boughton
family. On the south side is a sedilia and a small blocked-
up window, either for enabling lepers to participate in the
service or for the rite of "utter confession" practised by
the Franciscans. Near the altar rails on the south is a brass
"In memory of Charlotte, only child of Joseph Addison,
Esq., Secretary of State, and Charlotte, Countess of Warwick,
who died at Bilton Hall, A.D. 1797, aged 80 years." In the
north aisle is a leaden chalice and paten of the 14th century,
found in a grave on the north side of the church, evidently
that of a priest. There is some good oak work in the
chancel.
Proceeding onwards we reach Rugby, which is 14 miles
from Leamington by road and 15 by rail. The town in
ancient times formed the most southerly point of the
Norse settlements in England. The title of the adjoining
tract of Dunsmoor or Danesmoor tells us -specifically the
country from which these Norse invaders came and the
name of the place itself reveals the further fact that they
sprangfrom Jutland, as the root-syllable "Rug" is frequently
to be met with in the local nomenclature of that province ^
1 e.g. Rughjtrg (Rye bergHn Laaland, Rugballe (Rye ball) near Vejie,,
Rugstid near Koliiiug, &c. Rug means rye in Jutish, (^Dan rog Swed rag).
274 shakespeare'.s laxb.
The town stands on an eminence and is principally remark-
able for its famous school which was founded in 1567 by the
will of Lawrence Sheriff, a prosperous gi'ocer of London
and a native of Eugby, who left his real estate in Warwick-
shire for a free grammar school and the maintenance of
almsmen, in addition to bequests for the purchase of land
^nd the erection of a schoolhouse. The School stands at
the topof High Street and Sheep Street, about a mile from the
Eailway Station. It was originally established opposite
to the church on the site of the house in which the founder
was born and which is now represented by the eight most
eastern of the present almshouses. In 1749 the school-
buildings having become very dilapidated, the manor house
and eight acres of land were purchased. The house was
altered to adapt it for school purposes, a schoolroom was
erected, and the school was removed to its present site
in 1750. Eight acres more of adjoining land were acquired
in 1777. In 1779 further additions were made to the school-
buildings, and in 1809 the re-building of the Avhole schools
in the Elizabethan style was commenced from the plans of Mr.
Henry Hakewell, and completed in 1813. These comprise
the present schoolhouse, the old quadrangle, and the clock
tower. In 1830 a schoolroom was built over the gate for the
sixth form, which is lighted liy the handsome Oriel overlook-
ing High Street. In 1842 a library was built, and between 1858
and 1870 the new quadrangle' and other buildings were
erected. The residence of the Headmaster occupies the
eastern side of the Old Quadrangle. This quadrangle, the
south, east and west sides of wliich are cloistered, is
entered from the street by a gateway underneath the Oriel.
On the south side is the Dining Hall, above which are the
Dormitories, which are three stories in height, and unaltered
since the days of "Tom Brown." The Common Room of the
sixth form "is on the upper floor. In the passage by the
liall ranged against the wall are the tops of the old school
desks, carved Avith the names of a legion of boys of a bye-
gone era, Thomas Hughes's amongst the number ; the study
which he occupied is at the end of this block on the
-opposite side. The New Quadrangle, which contains the
science schools, the laboratory, etc., adjoins the old on the
west side. On the south side of this quadrangle is the
Chapel, originally erected in 1820 ; it was added to in 1851,
and with the exception of a small portion near the west
The name of Rugby is in Domesday wi-itt^n " Rooheberie," and in later
times " Rokeby." " TMs arises from an attempt to render the guttural
sound of the Norse " G ; " " u" at that period bore the sound of " ou."
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 275-
end entirely reconstructed in 1871, from designs by
Butterfield. It is built of red brick with stone dressings,,
and consists of a nave %Yith transepts, and a chancel with
an apse surmounted by a tower with an octagonal lantern..
The chapel possesses a numlier of stained glass windows^
as memorials of Rugbeians who fell in the Crimean "War and
the Indian Mutiny. The East window contains some fine
painted glass in the style of the Renaissance from the
church of Aerschot, near Louvain, probably designed by
Albert Diirer, or one of his pupils. It represents the
adoration of the Magi, the three Kings being represented in
the Royal costume of the time of Francis the First. The
glass was placed here in 1834, and was the gift of the
masters, who purchased it. In the north transept is a fine
recumbent effigy of Dean Sfanlei/ (1815-1881), by J. E.
Boehm, H.A., aiid another of Dr. Arnold (1795-] 8-i2), the
eminent headmaster, whose great qualities raised the
character of the school to the distinguished position which
it has since occupied. On the north wall of the nave is a
monument to Dr. James, headmaster from 1778 to 1794^
The figure, which represents him in a side yiew sitting and
reading in his gown, is an elegant piece of sculpture by
C'haJitrey. On the opposite wall is a tastefully sculptured
monument by the younger Westmacctt of Dr. JVo"ll. head-
master from 1807 to 1828, whose full length figure is
represented in a sitting posture. At the entrance to the
chancel is the grave of Dr. Arnold, marked by a plain
marble slab inscribed with the name " Thomas Arnold,"
beneath a small cross. To the south of the schools is the
famous playground, about seventeen acres in extent,
studded with fine old elm trees, and containing an
old British tumulus known as " the island." Up to
the year 1816 it was surrounded by a moat which
served as a stew for fish for the monks of Fipewell in
Northamptonshire, who had a grange here. To the east of
the playground is the Temple Eeading Room and Art Museum,
built as a memorial of the Headmastership of the Kev. Dr.
Temple, the present Bishop of London, and opened
in 1879. The Library contains a valuable collection
of books, and the Museum includes some good pictures
and antiquities. Two portraits by Ferdinand Bol, pupil
of Rembrandt, and another by Masaccin; "Italian
Girl," P. Calderon, R A. ; "Lake of Como," a study
on the .spot, j; ilf. W. Turner; "Sunrise," Copley Fielding ;
" Landscape, with houses," I'iefer Wouwerman ; " Norfolk
Broad," /. S. Cotman ; " Off Ramsgate," J. M. W. Turner ^
:27<i Shakespeare's land.
" Coast Scene," C. Stanfield, R.A. ; " In an Orchard," David
Co.v; "Daughter of the Duke of Feria," Velasquez. Two
frames of designs of buildings drawn in bistre bj'^ Michael
Angela, formerly in the collection of Sir Thomas Lawrence,
P.E.A., and presented by Mr. M. H. Bloxam. A very
rare breastplate and backplate of a suit of armour called
splints, the breastplate having an apron of chain mail
temp. Philip and Mary, 1554. Pieces of ancient armour
and weapons of various kinds presented by the late Mr. M.
H. Bloxham, to whose generosity the collection is largely
indebted. Next to the Reading Room is the New Drawing
School, and near the south end of the School Close is a fine
Swimming Bath, presented to the School in 1876 by
Dr. Jex-Blake, the late Head Master. The following
distinguished men entered the school as pupils at the dates
attached to their names : — 7%o>nas Carte, the historian,
1695; Edicard Cave, projector of the "Gentleman's
Magazine," 1700; Sir Ralph Abercromby, commander in
1801 of the army in Egypt, 1748 ; Walter Savar/e Landor, the
poet; and Saviuel Bufler, Bishoj;) of. hichfie\d,'l783; William
Charles Macready, the eminent tragedian, 1803 ; Matthew
Hulbeche Bloxam, the eminent antiquarian, 1813; Rnundell
Palmer, Earl of Selborne, Lord Chancellor of England, 1823;
A rthur Penrhyn Stanley, Dean of AVestminster, 1829 ; Thomas
Hughes, Q,C., Judge of Macclesfield Circuit County Court
and author of " Tom Brown's School Days," 1834 ; William
Henry Waddington, Ambassador from France to this
countrj', 1841 ; George Joachim Goschen, Chancellor of the
Exchequer, 1845. The school has also been presided over
by the following head masters: — Henry Holyoake (Chaplain
of Magdalen College, Oxford, ejected by James II), 1687-
1731 ; Dr. Thomas Arnold, 1828-1842 ; Dr. Archibald Camp-
bell Tail (afterwards Bishop of London and Archbishop of
■Canterbury), 1842-1857; Dr. Edward Meyrick Goulbourn
(afterwards Dean of Norwich), 1850-1857 ; Dr. Frederick
Temple (afterwards Bishop of Exeter and then of London),
1858-1870; Dr. Jex-Blake, 1874-1887; Dr. Bradley, Dean
of AVestminster, and Dr. Benson, Archbishop of Canterbury,
were assistant masters, the former from 1846 to 1858, and
the latter from 1853 to 1858. The registered number of
pupils on the school books in 1892 was 490.
Close to the Market Place is the Clmrcli dedicated
to St. Andrew. This was originally a chapel belonging
to the Abbey of Leicester. In the year 1221, Sir
Henry Rokeby, in exchange for a gift of lands,
■obtained the advowson of the living and rebuilt the
Shakespeare's land. 277
•chancel which was taken down in 1814 ; the old Norman
nave was demolished about 1350, when a tower, nave, and
aisles were constructed. All that now remains of these is the
tower and portions of the external walling of the north
aisle. The tower is a unique structure 63 feet higli, con-
structed of large blocks of ashlar. It is of square form
with an embattled parapet and seems to have been intended
as a place of defence and temporary refuge for the inhabi-
tants in times of sudden emergency. It contains a tire-
place, the smoke from which escaped though a funnel in the
thickness of the wall. The lower windows are very narrow
like loopholes, and at a considerable height from the ground.
The only entrance was formerly through the church. The
• church was restored iu 1S79 from designs by Mr. Butterfield;
it consists of a chancel and nave with transepts and two
nortli and one south aisles. The east window contains some
good stained glass by Clayton and Bell, in memory of Mrs.
Murray, wife of the present rector. Beneath is a tasteful
reredos in alabaster and marble. The communion service
■consists of a silver-gilt chalice and paten of the year 1633.
The chalice has an inscription regarding its presentation by
Thomas Shingler of London, haberdasher, and bears under-
neath the name of James Nalton, the famous puritan rector
of Rugby. About a furlong northwards from the cliurch
was a small Castle, which in the opinion of Dugdale, was one
•of those built in the reign of King Stephen through fear of
the coming of the Empress Matilda and demolished by
command of King Henry II about 1157. Part of the moat
and Qther traces are still visible in the grounds of a house
in Church Street. In the Barby Road is the Hospital of St.
Cross, a large and well-adapted structure of brick with stone
dressings, opened in 1SS4. The building and grounds,
together with an endowment of J10,00U, were the muuiticent
gift of Mr. R. II. Wood.
Holy Trinity Church is a handsome building in the
Decorated style, erected in 1852 from designs by Sir Gilbert
Scott. St. Matthew's, in the Early English style, was built
in 1841. St. Oswald's, Xew Bilton, was erected from designs
by Mr. Street. St. Marie's Roman Catholic Church and
Monastery in the Dunchurch Road, designed by A. W.
Pugin, in the Early English style, in 1846, and enlarged and
embellished in 1864 by Welby Pugin, has a lofty and hand-
some tower with a crocketted spire in the Decoi'ated style,
• completed in 1872 from designs by Whelan, which forms a
conspicuous object for many miles. Professor Lockyer, the
well-known astronomer, was born in 1836, at 24, Sheep
Street, wliere his father carried on the business of a chemist.
EOUTE 24.— RUGBY TO COVENTRY YiA DUNCHURCH
AXD RYTOX.
Quitting Rugby by the Dunchurch Eoad at two miles on
the left we pass Bilton Grange, a large modern Gothic
mansion used as a preparatory school for boj-s. Here on the
20th September, 1642, occurred a muster of the Parliamen-
tarian troops, a regiment from Rugby meeting the Lord
General (the Earl of Essex) and his regiment, Lord Stamford,
Colonel Cholmley, and Colonel Hampden, with many troops
of horse, and eighteen field pieces. At two miles and three-
quarters we reach Duncliurcli, the church of which, consist-
ing of a western tower, nave, north and south aisles, and
chancel, appears to have been erected in the 14th centurj'.
The windows of the chancel are of Geometrical or Early
Decorated character, the East window being a handsome
and s>"mmetrical example. The doorway of the tower is of
late Decorated character with hanging tracery. On the north
wall of the chancel is a curious marble monument with
projecting marble flaps at each side to imitate doors. The
inscription runs: — "Here lieth interrd the body of
Thomas Newcomb esq. a worthy citizen of London servant
to his late majesty King Charles ye second in his printing
office who departed this life ye 26 Day of December 1681 &
in ye 55 year of his age. In memory of whom his son
Thomas Xewcomb esq. servant likewise to his late Maty and
his Majesty King James ye 2 in ye same office erected this
monument. He likewise departed this life March 27, 1691
being Good Friday." On the inside of the left flap, " Mrs»
Dorothy Hutchinson relict of Thomas Xewcomb iunr. esq.
departed this life Feb. 28, 1719.'' Thomas Xewcomb the
elder founded some adjacent almshouses. There is a view
of a fine stretch of country from the end of the church-
yard.
Opposite the Dun Cow Inn is a long low gabled house
with an overhanging upper storj' bearing the date 1563,
and now recognised to have been Tlie Lion Inn, which was
the rendezvous of the Gunpowder Conspirators, a large
party of whom, headed by Sir Everard Digby, assembled
here ostensibly for a hunting match on Tuesday, Xovember
5th, 1605. About nine o'clock at night Catesby, Percy,
SHAKESPEARE S LAND. 279
John "Wright, Eookwood and others arrived in hot haste to
convey the disastrous intelligence of the failure of the plot,
and from hence, Sir Robert Digby, of Coleshill, Humphrey
Littleton and others who were not privy to the design
Tvent homewards, and the rest fled across Warwickshire
towards Robert Winter's House at Huddington in Worces-
tershire. As they rode along on that dismal night the
minds of the wretched fugitives must have been filled
with teirible forebodings. Visions of the gallows accom-
panied by the horrible tires into which the vitals of their
half-strangled bodies were to be cast must have haunted
them, while the heavens themselves must to their super-
stitious imaginations have appeared ominous with tokens
of divine wrath, for as they urged their weary horses
onward, the fiery tears of St. Lawrence from time to time
flashed across the sky. The house is now completely
modernised in the interior, though some traces of its old
character are still discoverable in the shape of old boards
in the floors of the upper rooms, and some plaster of Paris
flooring. There is a well-hole in the roof, forming a useful
method of escape, as by means of it anyone could pass from
end to end of the main block, and then by turning into the
wing at right angles emerge into the yard. In the grounds
at the rear is a larg.e old brick dovecote in a ruinous
condition.
The Dun Cow Hotel, rebuilt during the last century, was
in pre-railway times one of the great and well-known inns
on the London and Holyhead road, keeping in conjunction
with " The Bell " upwards of forty pairs of post-horses, in
addition to relays for the coaches, forty of which passed
through the village daily. George Fox, the founder of the
Society of Friends, commonly termed Quakers, stayed in it
in 1655, and Louis XVIIL, of France, is said to have slept
here occasionally when in exile. Opposite to the hotel is a
statue of Lord John Scott (died 1860), son of the fourth
Duke of Buccleuch, who was Lord of the Manor of Dun-
church, and held in high esteem. Near it are the steps and
base of an old market cross, now surmounted by a kind of
obelisk. A little further on are the stocks, which were last
used about 1857.
The road to Coventry from hence lies for four miles
through a magnificent aA^enue, consisting at first of Scotch
firs, which merge for a short distance on the left into
beeches, and are afterwards followed by elms, forming a
drive of singular beauty. This avenue was planted about
the year 1740 by John, Duke of Montagu, well known by
the sobriquet of " John the Planter."'
280 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
At two miles from Dunchurch the road branches off to
the left to Leamington and "Warwick, the angle westwards
between the two roads being, according to tradition, the
habitat of the monstrous Dun Cow. At four and a half
miles, a road on the right leads, in a mile and a half, to the
village of Wolston, which contains a large and interesting
church consisting of chancel, transepts, nave, aisles and a
central tower of low pyramidiciil form roofed with tiles.
The Cliurch was originally built towards the close of the-
12th century, the arches and other important features
exhibiting Norman details mixed with pointed arches and
other early features of the succeeding style. Some of the
capitals of the pier shafts under the tower have grotesque
human figures carded in low relief. Considerable additions
were made to the church in the 1-ith and succeeding
centuries down to the 17th. The roof of the tower and
parapet are modern. The font is the best example of the
14th century in Wam-ickshire, and consists of an octagon
bowl with ogee arches on each face, standing on a stem
formed of clustered shafts. In the south transej.t is a high'
tomb of rich design apparently of the latter part of the 15th
or early part of the 16th century, the exact date being
unknown as the inscription has been destroyed. The
superstructure consists of a canopy finished along the top
with a row of trefoil-leafed ornaments. The soffit is
enriched with panelled tracery, and the face of the tomb is
divided into three ornamental panels containing plain
shields. Not far from the cliurch are the scanty remains
of Brandon Castle, consisting of alow irregular mound over-
grown with grass displaying here and there a few patches
of displaced rubble masonry hardly projecting beyond the
average ground level. The site was granted by Henry I. to
Geoffrey de Clinton, founder of Kenilworth Castle, and was
by him bestowed on his son-in-law, Norman de Verdune, as
part of the marriage portion of his daughter Lescelina. The
Castle is supposed to have been erected either by Geoffrey
or his son-in-law. In 1255, owing to its being garrisoned for
the King, it was attacked and razed by Simon de Montford..
It was rebuilt in the reign of Edward I , and the date of its-
subsequent destruction is unknown. Returning to the
main road, at five miles on the right we arrive at
an ancient British tumulus or Barrow on the brow
of the hill, called Knightlow Hill, on which sta»ds
the base of an old roadside cross, probably of the reign of
Edward III., with a large fir tree at each angle, traditionally
said to represent four knights who were killed and buried
I
Shakespeare's land. 281
here. Here every year before sunrise on Martinmas Day,
November 11th, an ancient ceremony of paying "wroth
silver " to the Duke of Buccleuch, as Lord of the Hundred
of Knightlow, takes place. The custom consists in the
representatives of certain parishes in the hundred, twenty-
eight in number, paying a tribute to the Lord of the
Hundred, varying from Id. to 2s. 3d., and termed wroth
money or sioarff penny. The agent of the Lord first reads
the " charter of assembly," after which the names of the
various jjarishes are called, and then each representative
drops into the hole of tlie cross the amount due from his
parish ; anciently before doing so he had to walk three
times round the cross, but this part of the formality is
now omitted. The total of the tribute amounts to a little
more than 9s., and the penalty for non fulfilment is twenty
shillings for every penny, or a white bull with a red nose
and ears. After the ceremony a substantial breakfast is
served at a neighbouring tavern, when the health of the
lord of the hundred is toasted in accordance with custom
in glasses of rum and milk. The origin of the ceremony is
lost in obscurity, but it is believed that the payment was
intended as an acknowledgment of the claim of the lord of
the manor to the waste lands within the lordship of the
hundred, and as a payment for permitting cattle to pass
■over certain roads and fields at various seasons of the year.
From this spot there is an extensive and charming view
■westwards.
At six miles and a quarter we reach the village of Kyton-
on-Dunsmore, the church of which is a structure of the 12th
century, with a modern north transept and south porch of
red brick. Two miles to the south is the village of
Bubbenhall, containing a church of no interest.
At seven miles and a half the road crosses the Avon,
at eight miles it passes through the hamlet of Willenliall,
and at eight miles and a quarter traverses the river Sow. A
little further the way bifurcates at an old farm house,
which was formerly an inn known as the " Seven Stars," a
favourite resort of the citizens of Coventry during the
summer season. The old road on the left is very picturesque,
and runs by the entrance to Whitley Abbey, formerly called
Whitley House, the residence of Captain E. H. Petre,
originally an Elizabethan mansion, but extensively altered
from its original character in 1812, and greatly damaged in
January, 1874, by a destructive fire. It was formerly the
seat of Viscount Hood, from whom it was purchased by the
present owner. Charles 1. was here in August, 1642, when.
282 Shakespeare's land.
he summoned the citizens of Coventrj- to surrender, and
upon their refusal retired to Stoneleigh Abbey.
Both the old and the new road rejoin on Wliitley Common,
(nine miles), a large extent of unenclosed land, on which
the freemen of Coventry have grazing privileges. At ten
miles and a half Coventry is reached.
EOUTE 25. — LEAMINGTON TO FEXNY COMPTON,
WORMLEIGIITOX, FARNBOROUGH, AVON DASSETT,
AND RADWAY, via SOUTHAM.
Leaving Leamington by the London road, in one mile and
a half we reach the village of Radford Semele, which
contains a church, the only ancient portions of which are an
embattled western tower of the loth centuiy and the north
wall of the nave, which embodies a window of the 12tli
century. The village inn is a good modern reproduction of
an old half-timbered house. From the top of Radford Hill
(two miles and a half) there is a very tine view. At four
miles and a half we reach the church of TJfton, standing on
a hill commanding an extensive prospect, embracing
Leamington, Warwick, the Spires of Coventry, and the
Malvern and Lickey Hills.
The Church consists of an embattled western tower of the
15th century, nave, aisles, and chancel of the 14th centurj'-,
and south doorway of the 13th century. There are low side
windows on both sides of the chancel. On the south side
is a trefoUed ogee headed piscina, there are also piscinas in
the south aisle and north chapel. The pulpit is of ancient
carved work, and the font is old and singular in form. On
the east wall of the north aisle is a brass to Richard
Woddomes, with the following inscription :— " Here lyetli
the Boddyes of Richard Woddomes Parson Pattron and
Vossioner^ of the Churche & Parishe of Oufton in the
Countie of Warrike who dyed one Mydsomer daye 1587, and
Margerye his wyffe withe seven children." In the church-
yard is a cross of the 14th century, restored in 1862, bearing
on its faces representations of the Crucitixion, the Virgin
Mary, St. Chad and St. Catherine. At the north-east corner
of the churchyard are the old stocks, used for the first and
only time about 1850. Nearly the whole of the parish is the
property of Balliol College, Oxford, the result of a bequest
from John Snell, of Glasgow University, in 1679. From
hence Harbury is two miles and a half distant.
Proceeding onwards, at six miles on the left we
pass Stoneythorpe the seat of W. T. Chamberlayne, Esq.
1 Said to meau " Owner of the Advowsou."
284 shakespeaee's land.
a curious and interesting mansion of the 15th century,
repaired in 1627. The avails are double, the inter-
vening space being filled -^vith rubble and small
stones, and the timbers of the roof, which are of
oak, are wonderfully large and fine. The old chapel has
been converted into stables. From hence the road is
bordered for a considerable distance on each side by elms,
forming a fine avenue. At seven miles we reach Southam,
a small market town at the junction of the "Warwick
and London, and Coventry and Banbury roads. The Church,
situated on an eminence, consists of nave, chancel, north
and south aisles, north chancel aisle, and tower with
four pinnacles, and afine broach spire 126ft. high, principally
of the Decorated period, the body of the church having been
almost entirely re-built. The nave opens to the aisles on both
sides by four bays with octagonal piers the arch mouldings
terminating in corbel heads, and the clerestory being lighted
on each side by eight windows. At the east end of the south
aisle is a depressed arch, 3ft. high, opening on a turret stair-
case to the ancient rood loft. Here is a piscina with a
trefoiled arch and a ram's head in the centre of the back,
which probably served to support a shelf or a bracket. In
the south wall are two plain sepulchral arched recesses, now
partially blocked up. On the south of the altar is a piscina
with a pedimental head. The roof of the nave, of the 15th
century, is a fine example of open timber work, supported by
well carved and curious corbel heads. The pulpit, of wood,
is octagonal of the 15th century. In the churchyard, by the^
side of the lime walk, is an ancient tombstone with this
verse : —
In this vain world short was my stay.
And empty was my laughter ;
I go before and lead the way
For all to foUow after.
Augustin Bemher, who published Bishop Latimer's
sermons in 1570, was made rector in 1566.
Near the church is a fine half-timbered house, coated
with rough cast, having gables with carved barge boards,
an overhanging upper story supported by corbels,
and an oriel window on the principal front. On the
21st October, 1642, Charles I. passed the night here
on his way to the battlefield of Edge Hill. The
Horse and Jockey Inn, further along the road, to Long
Itchington, contains a good Jacobean oak staircase and
other old wood work. In the neighbourhood, principally
along the "Welsh road to the east of the town, are several
shakespeaee's land. 285
mineral springs, resembling in quality the Leamington
waters. About three-quarters of a mile away, in the
direction of Thorpe, is a Holy well with the remains of what
must have been rather important architectural surroundings..
The water rises in a shallow semi-circular tank about 6ft. or
8ft. in diameter. It has fragments of a base and cornice-
of classic character. The water flows away from the tank
through three much mutilated masks, one of which wears a
curled wig. On the 23rd of August, 1642, a skirmish took
place in the direction of Bascote, a mile and a half north
west of Southam, between the King and his troops, after
their repulse from Coventry, and the forces of Lord Brooke,.
Lord Grey, Colonel Hollis, and Colonel Hampden. The
royalists were worsted, losing about fifty men and their
artillery, and the King then set off for Nottingham where
he raised his standard on the 25th. A cannon ball and aa
inlaid spur have recently been discovered on the site.
From hence we proceed onwards to Ladbroke, nine miles,
a pleasant village dotted with fine elms and containing
a good many interesting half-timbered houses. The approach
to the church from the east, is very picturesque. The
church, with its lych gate and a group of old cottages^
environed by trees combining to form a very attractive
village picture. The church consisting of a tower and spire,
nave, aisles, chancel, and south porch, was originally Early
English, probably altered in the 15t]i century when the
roof of both nave and chancel were raised and a clerestory
was added to the nave ; mullions and tracery of the
Perpendicular type being at the same time inserted in
all the windows, except those of the tower and three in the
chancel. The embattled western tower and spire, 120ft.
high, are handsome and well-proportioned, a unique feature
of the former is that it is built of ashlar of tM-o colours,,
brownish yellow and grey, laid in alternate courses. On
the north side of the chancel is a Holy Sepulchre, used
in ancient times for a representation of the entombment at
Easter. On the south side is a sedilia containing three
seats with Iiandsome ogee canopies, and a mutilated recum-
bent effigy of a priest, found buried under the chancel floor
in 1876, and believed to be a representation of John de
Pavely (died 1303), first rector of the parish. A low window
on this side is supposed to have been used either as a leper's
window or for purposes of " utter confession." One of the
upper windows in the chancel contains some old painted
glass, and there are several good modern widows e.xecuted
by Hardman and Co., of Birmingham.. The Communion^
286 shakespeaee's laxd.
Plate, presented by Duchess Dudley in 1638, is very hand-
some and similar' in character to' that at Bidford and
Asho-w. A mile and a half to the -west of Ladbroke is
Bisliops ItcMngton, containing a modem church buUt in
1873.
At eleven and a half miles we reach on the right the
farm of Watergall,^ which, with some of the enclosure
walls which still remain, formed part of an old mansion
the rest of which was pviUed down in 1814. About
a quarter of a mile west of the house is an
eminence with an irregular hollow forty yards across
and oft. or 6ft. deep, in the centre of which is a
singular rectangular pit lined with dressed stone, hav-
ing angle stones on two sides to facilitate the descent. It is
7ft. 7ui. deep, :2ft. square at the top, and -ift. at the bottom,
where there is a stone trough through which the water
flows from a spring in the hill above. On the north side is a
recess with a seat in it, probably to accommodate the person
who cleared the trough. A pipe conveys the water away to
an arched reservoir 90ft. to the east, from whence it again
flows to the house. On the lintel of the doorway of the
reservoir is the date 1618, but the upper pit is probably
much older. On the farm near the road is a mineral
spring.^
At Fenny Compton Wharf, thirteen miles, we reach a cross
road leading on tht- right past Fenny Compton Station, (half a
mile), to Fenny Compton Village (one mile ), and on the left in
one mile and a half to the village of Wormleigliton. which
stands on an eminence pleasantly sheltered by trees. In the
centre is the Manor House, the ancient seat of the Spencer
family, of the foundation of which Dugdale says: " 3 Sept
22 Hen 7 (1.507) the said Will. Cope sold this lordship to John
Spencer esquier, who soon after began the structure of
a fair mannour-house. wherein, when that inquisition was
taken (9 .^- 10 H. 8. 1518-19) he had his residence, with Ix
persons of his family, being a good benefactor to the church
in ornaments and other things." The house was probably
added to at various subsequent periods, the last addition
being made about the year 1613. At that date the buildings
1 Watergall was a general name for a moist or marshy spot, the syllable
" gall " is the GatL " Cala," a marshy meadow.
2 This spring contains the following ingredients : — Chloride of Sodium,
3-63 grains ; Sulphate of Soda, 24-02 grains (eqiial to bi\ gi-ains of
Glauber's Salt); Sulphate of LJme, 9d'73 grsins ; Sulphate of Majrnesia,
72'S7 grains (e<inal to 149J grains of Epsom Salts) ; Carbonate of Lime,
15'12 gi-ains ; Oxide of Iron, a trace ; total, 212"37 grains.
shakespeaee's land. 287
appear to have formed two quadrangles partially open
at the west end. The present house constituted the north side^
from whence a range of buildings, now destroyed, extended
eastwards to an existing cottage traditionally termed the
laundry; from hence they extended westward, taking in the
present detached farmhouse which it is said formed the-
bakehouse and the kitchens. This area was apparently
bisected by a pile of buildings which has now completely
disappeared, extending from the gatehouse to the block
forming the east side. The existing house, which is of
brick with stone quoins and dressings, consists of two
parallelograms joined together with a level frontage to the
south of about 120ft. The south wall of the house has been
re-faced, and all the windows altered in modern times. On
this wall are two shields. One a plain shield of Spencer*
■with seven quarterings ; the other a shield quartering the
same arms, with helmet, crest, mantling, supporters, and
the motto: " Dieu defend le droit." They seem to have
been piit up by Baron Robert Spencer, probably in 1613^
though the Willoughby coat does not appear in them. The
style of the original windows of the house, however,
indicates that it was built at an earlier date. The interior
of the house has been considerably transformed to suit th&
purposes of a farmhouse. The original front door, now
blocked up, appears to have been on the north side in
the wall of the present kitchen, which, with the room
on the south of it, probably formed the entrance hall. Next
to this on the east is a lobby from which probably the main
staircase issued, the present one being modern. Over the
doorway on the east side are three plain shields, the left
hand one is Catelin representing Mary, wife of Sir John
Spencer, who died 1599 ; the next is Spencer representing
Sir Robert Spencer, first Baron Spencer of Wormleighton,
who died 1627; and the right-hand one is Willoughljy with
eleven quarters, Baron Spencer's wife being daughter and
coheiress of Sir Francis "Willoughby. In the spandrils of
the doorway on the opposite side are shields of Spencer and
Spencers ancient. Adjoining the lobby is a handsome
apartment 31ft. by 22ft., now devoted to the purpose of
a brewhouse. It is lighted on the north side by two large
windows of four lights, each arched in the head and
divided by transoms ; at the east end is a tine bay window
of six lights, similarly arched and divided. Above this
apartment is a room, termed the "Star Chamber," from the
gilt stars which are still to be seen on tlie lintels and head
of the former doorway and in the panels over one of the
:288 shakespeaee's land.
-windows. This chamber was formerly lighted like the
room below, but the bay window has been taken out
and the space filled with plain wall. The fireplace is of
coloured stone, wonderfully fresh ; in the spandrils are two
plain shields of Spencers and Spencers ancient. A newel
staircase in the south-west angle now forms the only
entrance to the chamber. At the east end of the farmhouse,
south of the Manor House, which is built of stone and is said
to have formed the bakehouse and kitchen, the jambs of two
large arches and the iron stanchions of the entrance gates
Tuay still be seen. The cottage, termed the laundry, contains
an old oak seat in the window.
The Gatehouse and Tower, constructed of stone, are of a
later period than the house. They consist of three blocks.
In the centre is the archway with a depth and breadth
of loft., formerly closed by double doors on the south side.
On its outer or south front are the royal arms with the crest
supporters and motto on a panel in the centre, flanked on
the west with the rose and crown and the date 1613, and on
the east by the thistle and crown and 1613 also on panels.
On the north or inner face are three shields. On the
east Spencer and 1613, and in the centre, Spencer, with
■seven quarterings, helmet, crest, supporters and motto ; on
the west, Willoughby and 1613. On the west side of the
archway is a gabled building of two stories with mullioned
windows. On the east side is a rectangular tower of four
stages 4.ift. high, in the interior of which is a staircase
which encloses a square well, constructed to contain the
weights of a curious old clock in the upper storj- which
strikes the hours, but has no dial. Attached to the south
side of the tower is a modern building, but marks in
the masonry above the present roof show that a structure
coeval with the tower originally occupied its place. From
the roof a fine view is obtained of the surroimding countrj^,
ranging from the Malvern Hills on the extreme west, to the
Shuckl)argh Hills on the east, taking in views of Stud-
borough Hill in Northamptonshire, Billesdon Coplow in
Leicestershire, and the spires of Coventry. The building
stands on the summit of a watershed, the water from the
north spout draining towards Leamington and the Severn,
and from the south spout towards Banburj- and the Thames.
In September, 1571, Dudley, Earl of Leicester, with a
numerous and brilliant retinue, stayed at the Manor House
on his way to Warwick, and it is probable that Queen
Elizabeth visited it August 11th, 1572, on her progress from
Edgecote, via Long Itchington, to Warwick. Prince Rupert
Shakespeare's land. 289
established his quarters liere on tlie night before the Battle
of Edge Hill, and on tlie 7th of January, 1646, Dugdale
records in his diary : " Wornileighton House in Warwick-
shire, burnt by his Maties forces of Banbury to prevent
the rebells making it a garrison." This entry, therefore,
represents the fate of the missing buildings.
The Church stands at a little distance north of the Manor
House, it consists of a chancel, nave, aisles, south porch, and
western tower. The tower is of late 12th century or early
13th century work, the low belfry story being carried
by grotesquely carved corbels. The south porch is of late
14th century or early 15th century work, a good early
cross within a circle being fixed on its gable. The door is
of the I2th century. The nave opens to the aisles by three
bays of good transition Norman work, the toned variegation
of colour produced by the Hornton stone, of which the
church is constructed, having a pleasing effect. The clerei-tory
is of the Perpendicular period. The north aisle has good
windows of the 14th century, of several varieties, some
of them of old red sandstone, worked at Kenilworth. A
canopy in the wall of the aisle probably covered the tomb
of a founder. The windows of the south aisle are all modern
with the exception of one of the 14th century. The chancel
arch is probably of the 14th century, but the capitals are
rudely cut and unfinished ; the chancel itself is elevated
three steps above the nave and is entered through a large
and handsome carved oak rood screen of the 1.5th century,
with modern renovations. It is of ecclesiastical tj^e and
was probably brought from some dissolved monastery at the
time of the dissolution, but is not well-adapted for its
present position on account of its disproportionate size.
There is no visible access to the upper part. The east loindow
is Perpendicular, the windows on the north side are widely
splayed ; on the south are two modern lancets. The
tesselated pavement of the nave and aisles bears the arms of
the Botelers of Oversley and Wemme, and is of the 13th
century, the best specimens are to be found in the north
aisle. The altar rails bear the date 1664, and the communion
table, which is quite plain, is of the same period. The font
is a plain truncated cone on a modern pedestal. On the
north 7oall is a mural monument of coloured marble
with the following incription : — " This is the monvment of
lohn Spencer Esqvier sonne and heire of Sir Robert Spencer
Knight Baron Spencer of Wormleiton which lohn Spencer
departed this life at Blois in France— the sixt of Avgvst
after the compvtation of the Church of England and the
L
290 SHAKESPEAEES LAND.
sixteenth after the new comprtation in the yeare of our
Lord Christ 1610 being 19 yeares old 8 monethes and odd days
never maryed of whom his brother Richard Spencer made
this epitaph." On the opposite wall is a quaint monument
" To the memorie of An : Barford wife of Tho: Barford vicar
of Wormleighton deceased May 19th Anno 1686." On the
floor of the north side of the altar is a circular slab inscribed
round the edge with " Heare lieth the (bow)-ells of Robert
Lord Spencer." '■
There are several fine yews in the churchyard. A branch
of the Washingtons, of Sulgrave, resided at Wormleighton.
The Registers record the marriage of Robert AVashington,
second son of Robert TTashington, of Sulgrave, and Elizabeth
Chishull, February 19th, 1595, and the baptism of George
Washington, son of Lawrence Washington, gent., August
3rd, 1608. Robert Washington removed to Brington along
with his elder brother Lawrence and both he and his wife
died there in 1622.
Returning to the cross road at Fenny Compton Wharf, we
pursue the Banbury Road for nearly two miles, when we
reach a road on the right which ascends a hill picturesquely
dotted -^-ith elms, conducting by a pleasant lane shaded
by trees, to the village of Farnborough (two and a half
miles). The church, which stands on an eminence, is a
small stone structure with a tower and low broach spire,
and is constructed in a mixture of styles. Early English,
Decorated and Perpendicular. At the south end of the
village is Farnborough Hall, a large plain stone building
of the latter part of the last centurj-, standing in well-
timbered grounds. Extending along the edge of the high
ground that rises behind the house is a terrace bordered by
trees forming a delightful turf walk about a quarter of
a mile long with an obelisk at the end.
From hence, in one mile and a half, we reach the village
of Avon Dassett, situated on the southern slope of the
Dassett Hills. The church was entirelj* re-built in 1868 in
the Early English and Decorated styles. The only relics of
the old church are the west window and the fine Early
English arch which forms the entrance to the vestry from
the north aisle and which was formerly the chancel arch.
On the north side of the chancel is a unique monument,
probably a memorial to Hugo, incumbent of this church,
who died in 1232. The figure, which portrays a deacon in
Eucharistic vestments, is sculptured in dark-coloured forest
1 Ab to this practice see page 227,
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 291
marble, and lies between shafts terminating in bell-shaped
capitals, over which is a semi-circular arch surmounted by
a representation of buildings. The crown of the head is
tonsured and the neck is covered by the amice which was of
linen ; next is the dalmatic, open on each side. Below this
on the right, the ends of the stole are visible, denoting that
the figure is that of a deacon, as in the case of a priest
the ends would appear on both sides. Below the dalmatic
is the alb, fitting closely at the wrists, and beneath this
again is the ordinary cassock. Attached to the left arm is
the maniple, and the right hand holds a scroll on which
perhaps the name and date were formerly painted. At the
teet is a bird. The figure rests underneath a 14th century
ogee-shaped canopy ornamented with ball-flower moulding
and which is a full century later than the monument. The
view of the Edge Hills from the church porch is very fine.
PYom hence the road leads via Arlescote in three miles
to Radway, or Warmington may be reached in one mile and
a half by turning to the left on reaching the Banbury Road.
KOUTE 26.— FEXXY COMPTO^s^ to KIXETON, via
BURTON DASSETT and GAYDON, and to RAD WAY,
VIA OLD LEYS.
Thr village of Fenny Compton lies three-quarters of a mile
from the Station on a cross road leading from Wormleighton,
via Avon Dassett to Radway and Kineton. The church,
according to Dugdale, is consecrated to St. Clare, but in the
Liber Regis is dedicated to St. Peter, which is probably
correct, as the chancel faces north of east and south of
west, and the sun on St. Peter's day, June 29th, is very
nearly at its greatest declination northward. The church
consists of a chancel, nave, aisles, north porch, and west
tower with low spire, and is a good example of a charac-
teristic village church. The style of architecture is late
Decorated of the 1-ith century. The centre of the arch
of the tower opening into the nave is, as in many other
churches, to the north of the axis of the nave. The tracery
of the windows is of Xenilworth stone which is accounted
for by the fact that it formed part of the endowment;
of the monastery of Kenil worth. The door of the north porch
shows traces of bullets, a portion of one being still embedded
in the backing of the door. It is said that after the Battle
of Edge Hill, some soldiers of one party took possession of
the church from which their opponents endeavoured to oust
them. A stone over the porch bears the following
HSjWK
inscription : — C w K which probably represents the date
of repairs mth the initials of the vicar and churchwardens.
The north aisle was built about 1840 and contains an old
aumbry. The entrance to the rood loft is still visible on
the south side of the nave. There is a piscina in the
chancel and the altar rail is of oak balustraded, probably of
the last century. The pulpit is also of that period. On
the south side of the altar is a brass witli the following
inscription: — "Here lyeth bvried the bodie of Richard
Willis of Fenny Compton in the covntye of "Warwicke gent.
Sonne of Ambrose "Willis deceased which said Richard
had by Hester his wife five children that is to say
George William Richard Judithe and Marie all now
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 293
lyvinge who deceased the tenth day of June 1597."
The family subsequently migrated to America, and
numbered among its descendants Nathaniel Parker
Willis (1806-1867), the author of " Pencillings by the
Way," and numerous other graceful compositions. In Back
Street is a stone structure of late 13th century type, the
east gable of which abuts on the road. It has evidently
at one time been a chapel. In the house which runs at right
angles to it, a wyvern is rudely carved in the beams of the
kitchen roof and another forms the latch of the casement.
To the south of the village under a hill known as Tight
Head, is a mineral spring called " St. Alban's."
Proceeding onwards in half a mile we attain the summit
of Gredenton Hill, the face of which is extensively scarped,
some authorities believe that the escarpments are entrench-
ments, lAit others, with greater show of reason, regard them
as linchets cut to facilitate the cultivation of the hill side.
On each side of the hill are mineral springs formerly known
as St. Christopher's and St. Catherine's, but now called
" Kits " and " Cattens." I"Vom hence the road conducts in
another half mile to Avon Dassett.
Turning to the right and continuing for a mile along
the brow of the Burton Dassett hills to their extreme north
western point, we arrive at The Beacon, a curious and
probably unique structure of its kind, which stands close to
the Windmill. It is a stone building of the 15th century,
15ft. 4in. high, and 62ft. in circumference, with walls 4ft.
thick. The roof is conical, built up of circular courses
of stone and covered with plastei". Projecting from the top
are twenty-five corbels which evidently supported a modern
gallery in former times, to which access was probably
obtained by a wooden ladder or stairs. The entrance is now
by a doorwa,y on the east, but anciently there was
apparently another doorway on the west side. The build-
ing was obviously designed to carry a floor half-way up
but the present floor is modern. There are two windows,
one on the west looking towards the Malvern Hills 30in,
high and 14in. wide, splayed on the inside and having
a dripstone on the exterior, and the other on the north-east
looking towards Rugby and High Cross, 25in. square and
likewise splayed. On the left of the west window is a
fireplace now partly blocked up, originally 25in. square,
with a moulded border. Two of the corbels on the outside it
will be noticed are wider apart than the others ; this is
owing to the construction of the chimney between them
which is otherwise invisible. The illumination of the beacon
294 shakespeabe's land.
was effected by means of a circular iron pan or cresset
about 3ft. in diameter and 1ft. deep, mounted on a pole and
placed on the roof. The prospect is clear on the south-east
in the direction of Ivinghoe where at a distance of forty
miles there was a corresponding beacon ; the communication
on the north-east was with Bickenhill twenty and a half
miles distant, on the north north-east with High Cross in
Leicestershire, and on the south south-east with Nettlebed
in Oxfordshire, forty-five miles off. The Wrekin is visible
from this point in fine weather.
Descending the southern spur of the hill we arrive at
a well, situated in a stone chamber, inside which is the
mutilated date 34, probably representing 1534. Near this in
a picturesque situation, is the interesting and handsome
church of Burton Dassett, which consists of chancel, nave,
transepts, aisles, north porch, and an embattled western
tower. The most noticeable feature of the exterior is
the fine Early English north transept window of five lancet-
shaped lights in plate or sunk tracery. The north porch is
of the Decorated period and is ornamented with the ball
flower moulding, the doorway itself being Norman, with
ball mouldings. The south doorway is also Norman, with
diapered mouldings. Both these doorways were probably
moved to their present position when the old Norman
church was taken down and the present one built. The
buttress, built against the west end of the north aisle, has a
simk quatreful on its face, the purpose of which is not
evident. The tower is a bold and massive structure of the
early part of the 14th century, with walls 6ft. thick, and the
entrance to the belfry is by a recessed doorway in the
western face, the view of the interior from this point being
strikingly grand and effective. The walls and windows of
the north aisle and transept and the north arcade are of the
early part of the 13th century ; the south aisle and south
arcade are perhaps a little later, but the original lancets of
the easternmost window of this aisle have given place to
insertions of a later date. The fine chancel arch is Transition
Norman work of the close of the 12th century, the chancel
itself being probably of the commencement of the 14th;
the east window of four lights, with the windows next to it
on each side, being of Early Decorated character, while the
two remaining windows are later examples of the style. In
the lower part of the south-west window is a low-side
window showing traces of having been closed by a shutter
which was either for the use of lepers or for " utter con-
fession." The roof, which retains several of its original timbers.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 295
"was apparently altered from one of high pitch to one of low
pitch when the clerestory was erected in the 15th century;
the south clerestory has, however, plain square-headed Eliza-
bethan windows, and was probably re-built in the 17th
century. The interior, while adapting itself to the slope of
the ground, displays the characteristics of a Processional
church. i^om the interior of the tower the floor rises by
four steps to the nave, at the third bay of the nave is
another rise of two steps ; at the entrance to the chancel
another of four steps; and finally the altar is reached by
three stages, each of three steps, making seventeen steps in
all. On the north side of the nave the capitals of the first
three detached pillars are curiously and richly ornamented.
The first pillar is girt, by emblems of three of the Evangelists,
the lion (St. Mark), the eagle (St. John), an ox, with a man's
head (St. Luke), and a spray of trefoils, the capital itself
being decorated with sprays of trefoils. The second pillar
is encircled by quaint animals, two of them being topsy-
turvey ; above these is a star moulding, and higher up again
at the spring of the arch, grotesque figures of animals and
a bunch of splayed trefoils. On the third pillar is a hare
hunt, a curious monster with a scaly tail terminating in
another head, and a squirrel with a nut. Above this again
are figures of animals, including a lion with a ball in its
mouth, and an Agnus Dei with the cross defaced. The
north transept, formerly styled the " Buckingham chapel,"
but now termed the "AVilloughby chapel," has, under the
north window, a sepulchral recess with an ogee-shaped
Early English arch containing an undedicated coffin lid of
stone, which probably covers a founder's tomb. Outside this
is a high tomb to Peter Temple, of Stowe, Bucks, who died
May 28th, 1577, and his wife, which was formerly inlaid
with brass figures, shields, and an inscription round the verge,
all of which have disappeared.^ Underneath the east window
of this transept is the slab of a pre-reformation altar,
marked with the five crosses cut on the top in allusion
to the five wounds of Christ. To the south of this is a
piscina, and in the north wall is an aumbry with its original
door. On the wall above the piscina is a marble mural
tablet enclosed between Corinthian columns and bearing
coloured coats of arms, with an inscription to John Temple,
of Stowe, who died May 9th, 1603, aged 71, and Susan, his
wife. At the foot are the following lines : —
Cur liberos hio plurimos?
Cur hio amicos plurimos ?
1 This tomb is about to be restored by the family.
296 shakespeaee's land.
Et pliirimas pecimias?
Vis scire cur reliquerit?
Tempellus ad plures abiit.^
On the south is an early entrance ro the rood loft Trhich
was probably superseded by another now blocked up on
a higher level in the chancel •u-all, probably formed when
the rood screen was raised at the time the clerestory was
formed. In the south transept is another stone altar and a
high tomb to John Swain, died April 14th, 1668, and his
wife Ann, died August 6th, 1677. The south aisle contains
a good trefoil-headed piscina adjoining the easternmost
window. On the south side of the chancel are a plain
sediHa and a piscina. Underneath the altar is an old
Jacobean table with the date i g which formerly serred as
a Communion Table but proved too small for the purpose.
The bowl of the font, which is of cylindrical form, is ancient,
but the stem and base are modern. In connection with
such an important church, it may at first sight appear
remarkable that there should be no adjacent village. This
arises from the fact that in the reign of Henry VII Sir
Edward Belknap, then lord of the manor, made arbitrary
enclosures of lands here and destroyed the village, for
which, on account of public services he had rendered
the King, the latter, in 1499, granted him immunity from
being troubled or questioned.
Descending from hence we proceed to Little Dassett (one
mile), which contains a small Early English riuned chapel
at the corner of the road leading to North End. Half a
mile further we reach the main road to Banbury, and
following this to the right, at two miles and a half pa^s
Gaydon Hill, which has marked entrenchments on the steep
slope of its south-western side, possibly dating back to
British times. A cannon ball, bearing the " broad arrow,"
was found a few years ago in one of the trenches, a
memorial possibly of some skirmish connected with the
great Edge Hill fight. The spinny on the western side is a
noted fox cover. At three miles we arrive at Gaydon Inn
and the village of Gaydon, which contains a neat modern
church with tower and spire in the Perpendicular style,
erected in 1852 on the site of an ancient chapel. In the
churchyard is an old stone cofiin of the loth centurj-,
discovered when the old chapel was demolished.
1 This is one of those punning epitaphs which preTailsd during the 17th
century.
" Would TOii know why he (Temple) has left so many children, so many
friends, so much wealth ? Temple has gone away to more " (friends, &c,,
i.«. "gone over to the majority," a synonym for death).
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 297
Proceeding onwards towards Kineton at one mile and a
half, we pass Chadshunt House, anciently the seat of
the Newsham family, having in front of it a pretty piece of
ornamental water with an island in the centre. In con-
nection with the house there is a tradition that from time to
time the restless spirit of old Squire Newsham, who died in
1836, drives a ghostly coach and four down the avenue in
the park, and it is certain that within the last fifteen
years several educated persons testify to having distinctly
heard sounds resembling those of invisible horses hoofs
and of an invisible vehicle turning on the site of the old
gravel sweep. A little further is Chadshunt Church,
originally built at the close of the 12th century, and con-
sisting of chancel, nave, north chapel, and western tower.
The north door and chancel arch are Norman ; the south
door was also originally Norman, but has been reconstructed
and narrowed; the south side of the nave con-
tains remains of 13th century work, consisting principally
of two well-proportioned windows, and also a two-light
window of the Decorated period. Above them is a range of
15th century square-headed windows. The north side has
no windows. The tower was re-built in the latter part of
the 16th century, and the chancel and north chapel in the
18th. The roof of the nave has moulded beams of the 15th
century, three of which are carved in the centre of the
underside with a large flower, and the fourth with the
Paschal Lamb, having over it a crowned bust with long
hair, probably representing St. Mary. The north chapel
forms a squire's pew, raised about two feet above the floor
of the church, and entered from the grounds of the house.
It is lighted by three windows filled with painted glass,
twelve squares of which are of considerable merit, and were
brought from a convent in Italy, and placed here in the
last century by the family of Knight of Barrels, near
Henley-in-Arden, whose arms appear in the north window.
The remainder of the spaces are filled with modern stained
glass. The figures are clothed in costumes of the 16th
century, which gives them a quaint aspect.
West Window : No. ] , " A group of men standing with a longli in front of
them, two of whom are pointing to the plough" ; No. 2, " Jacob seated with
Leah behind liim, his elder sons with long crooks standing around, Joseph
in the centre relating his dream, the Sheaves bowing to his Sheaf, and the
eleven Stars and the Moon making obeisance to him " (Genesis xxxvii.) ;
No. 3, " Joseph apijearing to his brethren in Dothan, where their flocks
are grazing" (Genesis xxxvii.); No. 4, "Joseph with a bunch of keys
standing in the prison, and interpreting the dreams of the butler and the
baker, who are seated with another prisoner behind them " (Genesis x.l.)
North Window : The pictures in this window are larger, and are much more
298 Shakespeare's land.
minutely drawn than those in the west and east windows; No, 5,
" Abraham, in armour, kneeling before Melchisedech to receive bread and
wine after the slaughter of the Kings" (Genesis xiv.) ; No. 6, "The
Presentation in the Temple, Simeon with the infant Jesus in his arms^
Joseph standing by" (Luke ii.) ; No. 7, "An angel with a sword floating
in the air, and dead men and horses lying around, probably representing
the destruction of the people luider David" (I. Chronicles xxi.); No. S,
"The Exodus, the Children of Israel journeying with Moses and Aaron at
their head " (Exodus xii.) EaM Windoic : No 9, "A King, probably
Solomon, on a throne with statues of lions to the left, a woman, possibly
the Queen of Sheba presents a branch of flowere to the King, she is attended
by servants carrying baskets" (II. Chronicles ix.); No. 10, "Two Kings-
seated, one wearing an arched crown, the other a spiked crown, between
them two figures one bearing a pair of scales and a sqiiare, and the other
holding an open book," possibly a representation of David and Solomon
dispensing justice ; No. 11, "The Judgment of Solomon" (I. Kings iii.);
No. 12, " A man without a crown, but holding a sceptre seated under a
baldacchino, on the left a female with a standard lily, on the right another
with a sword." These windows were re-glazed in the year 1S55.
On the south wall is a mural monument of marble
and stone recording the burial of " the Predessessears
of Waltar Newsam lord of Chadshunt, of the sayd
Waltar and of Fridayswed his wife " 1621. On the
same wall, inserted on a slab covering what appears to
have been an ambry, is a brass to "\ViUiam Askell, who
is represented kneeling on a tasselled cushion in front of a
prie dieu which supports an open book. His hair is brushed
back from the forehead and he wears a moustache, short
beard and slight whisker. Round his neck is a stiff ruff, his
outer garment is a long gown, beneath which is a jacket
buttoned down the front with lappets at the hips and
girded by a belt. The inscription runs thus : — " Here lyeth
the body of William Askell of Geydon Gent, who deceased
the VI of Februarie Anno Dni. 1613 Aetatis suae XLVIII,"
The font is of two parts. The bowl appears to be Xorman
ornamented with intersecting arches, and is apparently
set on the circular base of an Early English pillar.
The communion plate, the gift of John Xewsam and
his wife in 1723, is of silver-gilt and very handsome. On
the south side of the church is the base of- a
cross of more than usual elaboration. There was
anciently an oratory in the churchyard containing an
image of St. Chad to which pilgrimages were made from
the earliest times. After depositing their offerings at the
shrine, the pilgrims resorted to the well of St. Chad, to the
east of the pool in the new park, in which they bathed and
were it is said cured of their diseases. This bath was
formerly a square shallow hollow in which the spring
bubbled up filling a bath below it lined with brick and
stone, having steps descending into it. Some remains of
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 299
the bath may still be seen, though it is partly filled up
and the water now flows from a stone spout, the shallow
well beyond having been closed. From an inquisition taken
in 1562, it appears that the yearly offerings averaged £16.
Proceeding on our way in three-quarters of a mile, we
pass on the right a keeper's lodge, next to which is a field
called Water Furrow, across which some 200 yards from
the road runs the ridge or furrow known as " Rupert's
Headland," ^ being the point at which Prince Rupert wheeled
his cavalry at the termination of his furious charge against
the Parliamentarian Horse at the Battle of Edge Hill.
Numbers of bullets have from time to time been ploughed
up in the field. Half a mile further, at two and three-
quarter miles from Gaydon, we arrive at Kineton.
From iFenny Compton or Burton Dassett to Radway, the
road lies via Old Leys, the distance from the junction with
the Banbury Eoad being three miles. The approach to the
Edge Hills "is A'ery picturesque; the svimmit being covered
by trees, which, at Knole End, loom up in tall and massive
grandeur and then curve gracefully away towards Westcote^
1 The headland in a ploughed field is the cross furrow or " land " at the
heads or ends of the other "lands" at the edge of the field.
ROUTE 27— LEMIINGTOX TO UFTON and LADBROKE
VIA WHITNASH, CHESTERTON, and HARBURY.
PROCEEDIN& from Leamington along Clemens Street and
past the Cemetery in one mile we reach the A'illage of
Whitnasli, rendered charmingly picturesque by the number
of its half-timbered houses and the character of its cottage
gardens ■which are bright with old world flowers. The
church is situated on a knoll adjoining the village green on
which stands a huge old elm hollow with age but still
leafy. Near this the village stocks formerly found a place
but have long disappeared.
The church consists of a square embattled tower of
the Perpendicular period, and a nave, chancel, south aisle,
and south porch, of the 13th century. The south porch
contains herring-bone work which is probably a survival of
an ancient Saxon church. The interior of the roof, which
has been renovated, is polygonal, in seven sections or
cants of the late Early English or Early Decorated type.
On the south side of the chancel is a piscina and a plain
single-seated sedilia. The east 7nndow of three lights con-
tains in the centre the Ascension with the Baptism of
Christ on the left, and the Last Supper on the right. The
stone jnUpit, of octangular form, divided into trefoil-
headed panels with shafts of red Devonshire marble, is
a work of great taste, carved by Miss Benham, an amateur^
who also executed the reredos. The fojit, of Caen stone,
is modern. On the south side of the chancel, by the altar,
is an incised brass with effigies of Benedict Medley and his
wife. The figures are in a standing position, the hands
clasped in prayer, and both are very simply attired, the
husband in a loose robe open at the neck and bare-headed ;
the wife in a pedimental hood, a plain robe with cuffs and
a girdle round the waist with a long pendant end which
passes through a large buckle on the left side. Beneath is
this inscription : — " The above figures of Benedict Medley
and his wife were fixed here at the restoration of the
chancel in 1856. He was clerk of the signet to King Henry
VIL and Lord of this Manor A.D. 1504 and was buried with
his wife in this chancel." On the north side is a bras*
to Richard Bennett, rector of the parish from 1492 to 1531,
with the following inscription :: — " Hie loci sepelitur
Shakespeare's land. 301
dominus Richardus Bennet, artis sacre magister & huius
quondam ecclesie diligens pastor qui fatis co/n/sessit VIII
die mensis Januarii Anno D. MCCCCC XXXI cuius anime
miser/e/at/ur/ Deus." Near this is another brass to Nicholas
Greenhill who became head master of Rugby School in 1602
at the age of 22 and held office there until 1605. In 1609 he
was presented to the Rectory of Whitnash which he retained
till his death on the 30th April, 1650. The epitaph is in
English and Latin, a practice which was not uncommon in
the 17tli century. The concluding part runs thus :^
This Greenliill periwigd with snow
Was leauild i in tlie spring
This hill ye nine and three did know
Was sacred to his King
But he must down, although so much divine
Before he rise never to set but shine.
On another square brass plate is a rhyming inscription
to R. L. Boles, 1689. In connection with the earliest
church there is a pretty legend of the first bell, which it is
said on its arrival was carried to a neighbouring holy well
to be dedicated by being immersed in the water. There it
glided from the hands of those who bore it, and with
strange sounds disappeared from mortal eyes into the
watery depths. It afterwards became known that those
who approached the mouth of the well at nightfall in quest
of information, received in the morning from the spirit of
the bell responses to their questions, signified by varied
pulsations of the lost church monitor.
From hence Chesterton Camp may be reached in three
miles by a footpath branching off near the village inn and
again joining the main road near High Down Clump, To
arrive at it by road we must proceed a distance of three-
quarters of a mile to the Tachbrook Road at a point one mile
from Leamington and follow this road for half a mile
when we turn sharply to the left and going past High
Down Clump, a great resort for starlings (two and a half
miles from Leamington), on the right, we come to the
" Royal Oak " (three miles and three-quarters), where the
Roman Fosse Road joins, which we follow on thfe right. A
section of this ancient way near this spot shows the road
and ditches to be 30ft. in width, the road itself being 10ft.
wide and raised 3ft. above the level of the ground, whilst the
ditch has an equal depth, the crown of the road being thus
6ft. above the bottom of the fosse or ditch. In another
half mile we reach Chesterton Camp, a castrum eestivum
1 Levelled
302 Shakespeare's land.
or summer camp, which appears by its construction to
have been formed during the earliest period of the Roman
occupation in the Midhmds. The fosse way passes through
it, entering the north-eastern vallum nearly midway in its
length, whilst it leaves the Camp close to its angle. The
present roadway is 7ft. 6in. wide, being now a simple track,
repaired with local limestone ; the f'amp withiu the ram-
parts at the north-east is about ten chains in length, but at
the south-west only a little over seven chains, while the
south-east and north-west sides are seven and six chains
respectively. The area of the Camp field is thirty and a
half acres, of which the Camp and its ditches occupies
fourteen acres. There are now no signs of a raised ramp-
part round the Camp, which has been obliterated by time
and the plough. The ditches were about 25ft. wide at the
bottom, 80ft. broad at the top, and about 25ft. high from
the bottom to the level of the formation. It will be
observed that, although the Camp is of the usual four-
sided arrangement, it is much shorter on the south-west
side than on the north-east. This appears to be accounted
for by the Roman engineer having taken advantage of
the natural formation of the land, owing possibly to his
only having a few men at command which rendered him
unable to construct the ordinary rectangular form. A small
stream, having its source in Chesterton and Kingston close
by, and visible from the Camp, crosses the fosse and run-
ning in a northerly direction along the south-west and
north-west sides of the Camp, affords a supply of water.
Towards the south-west there are traces of a sluice and
ditch with some modern brickwork. The ditches were
constructed dry and could not be flooded as they are above
the level of the brook. The remains of the Camp are much
worn by time, especially at the south-west angle; it appears
to have been hastily reared and not to have been altered
afterwards. Roman coins and pottery have been found
here but not of any special value. The situation is well-
chosen and is sheltered by hills to the north-east and south-
east, while there are smaller ones on the south-west. Such
a quiet and retired spot would be of much value to the
Roman commander as a halting place to rest his men after
a weary and lengthened march, the hills around being
utilised as outposts to prevent the sudden descent of an
enemy. Highdown Hill would form one of these outposts
on the north-west, and any signals from that spot could be
distinctly seen by those in Camp. A station would also be
placed on high ground near the " Royal Oak " at the cross
shakespeabe's land. 303
roads, to guard the entrance to the Camp; another would be
fixed on the Windmill Hill which could communicate with
a position on the next hill about a mile from the Camp.
It would appear that the Camp was a military position
at the time of the Conquest, when Chesterton was held
by the Abbot of Abingdon, of Turchil, Earl of Warwick,
who had five English soldiers (v milit : angli) there, having
the keeping of the Camp entrusted to their charge.
On the summit of the hill (half a mile to the east) is the
handsome stone windmilP erected in 1632 on the site of an
earlier mill by Sir Edward Peyto, after a design by Inigo
Jones. The body is supported by six circular arches, under
which is the ascent to the interior. The roof is of domical
shape covered with lead, and is made to revolve for the
purpose of adapting the position of the fliers to the
direction of the wind. From this spot there is a splendid
panoramic view. At the foot of the hill is a large pool with
a disused watermill, probably designed by Inigo Jones, and
the road across the brook is carried by a bridge of similar
pattern, which is also in all likelihood his work. Half a
mile from the windmill we reach Chesterton Green. To the
north-east of this at a distance of half a mile on a hill
marked by a clump of trees indicating the spot where the
1 III the ballad of the " Skeleton in Armour," which is founded upon the
discovery at Newport, in Rhode Island, of a skeleton clad iu broken and
corroded armour, Longfellow, iu a prefatory note, accepts and quotes an
opinion of Professor Rafu to the eflfect that a ruined building there, known
by the name of the " Newport Kuin," the " Round Tower," or the "Old
Stone Mill," is the work of Danishmen of the 12th century who are
supposed to have visited America in pre-histoiic times. There seems,
however, little doubt that this structure is iii reality an attempt to
reproduce the Chestertoii windmill and is the work of Governor Benedict
Arnold, somewhere about tlie year 1676. William Arnold, the father of
Benedict, was born in Leamington in 1587, and his son Benedict was also
born there in 1615. They emigrated to Rhode Island in 1635, and
Benedict became governor of the settlement in 1663. In August, 1675, a
wooden mill at Newport was blowai down in a great storm, and it is
believed that this structure was set up by the governor in its stead. At
the time of the erection of Chesterton mill Benedict Arnold was 17 years
of age and was probably vividly impressed by its imposing character. It
has been pointed out that there are certain ditt'erences between the English
and American structures, as the Chesterton mill has six arches resting on
square pillars and is built of ashlar, while the Newport building has eight
on round pillars and is constructed of rubble. But the general similarity
of aspect being unquestionable, it is not remarkable that ditt'erences of
detail should exist, looking to the fact that the American imitation must
have been designed from memory and built with such materials and
appliances as were available in a young colony. Benedict Arnold had a
descendant of the same name who became a Brigadier-General in the
American array, and in 1780 deserted from it, which brought about the
execution of Major Andre as a spy.
304 Shakespeare's land.
lodge to the Peyto mansion formerly stood, are the remains
of a square fortification, which is probably of the period of
the Civil Wars of Charles I. and the Parliament. It is
six chains in length, standing on the summit of the hill
from which rerj' extensive views can be obtained of the
fosse to the southwest and towards Warwick. It is doubt-
ful whether it was a Roman station, as the Chesterton
Camp cannot be seen from it, the Windmill Hill lying
between. If it was a Roman outpost, it was excellently
calculated to guard against surprises and must have
formed one of a series of entrenched posts along the
Fosse-way, such as those of which there are indications
at Harbury, Ufton, Highdown, &c. The formation occupies
two and a half acres, the greater portion of which is prob-
ably in the condition in which it was left by its constructors,
but in parts it is now much broken by the getting of sand
and gravel. It is surrounded by a raised rampart some 20ft.
wide and 3ft. or 4ft. above the ground, which is foi-med from
the earth dug out of the ditch and counter ditch. There is
now a plantation here of a later date than the earthworks.
Chesterton Church is situated half a mile from Chesterton
Grreen. It consists of chancel and nave, south porch and
western tower, a striking feature of the exterior being the
long line of embattled parapet running the whole length of
nave and chancel. The tvicer, which is low and square, is
probably of the 17th century, built out of old materials.
Externally the nave is distinguished from the chancel by
differences of style ; the nave, which is of the 14th
with only one original window, has, on the south side,
three late Perpendicular windows, and then separated from
these by a buttress are two Decorated windows of two
lights with .simple cusped tracery, representing the chancel ;
internally the nave and chancel are unseparated, there
being no chancel arch. On the face of the south porch is a
wooden sun-dial with the motto "See and be gone about
your business." In the south wall over the porch is a piece
of Tabernacle work, very minutely and well executed,
which probably at one time formed part of the reredos. It
contains four canopied recesses, three of which enclose
figures, that on the right hand seems to be St. John holding
an Agnus Dei. The south porch it will be noticed has stone
seats on each side, a distinctive feature of churches dedi-
cated to St. Giles, who was the patron of cripples. The
door is a very fine specimen of 14th century work with rich
continuous mouldings, embellished with ball flowers. On
the north side is a blocked-up doorway which evidently
Shakespeare's land. 305
served as the special entrance of the Peyto family, as it
nearly faces the gateway of their old mansion. On the
south side of the chancel is a piscina and a niche, removed
from the east wall and now used as a credence table ; it has
a groined arch, the ribs of which centre in a rose, and
probably formerly contained a figure of the patron saint.
At the east end of the nave is another piscina, and the late
Mr. Bloxam discovered remains of one high up in the
"wall showing the existence of a rood sen en altar. At the
west end is an old circular font of Xorman type on a low-
shaft. Next to it, built up against the north wall, is a
handsome high tomb with recumbent efBgies of Humphrey
Peyto and his wife, removed from the south side of the
chancel when the church was re-seated in 1860. The hus-
band is bareheaded, clad in armour, his head resting on his
helmet. His wife is attired in a long robe with a short ruff
round the neck and a scolloped hood on the head, a
long chain terminating in a medallion depends from her
shoulders, and near the bottom of her skirt on the left side
is a lap dog. The hands of both are clasped in prayer and
sustain books. The feet of the husband rest on a lion, the
wife's are unsupported. Above the tomb on a wall panel
are effigies of ten children with their names over them.
John P. (in youthful costume), John P. (the 2nd, in swathing
bands), Bazill P. (in civil costume), William P. (in armour),
Richard P. (in civil costume). Humffrey P. (in armour),
then divided by a pilaster come four daughters, Goodeth P.,
Anna P., Dorothe P., Margery- P. On the south side are
four shields in panels, and at the west and east ends are
coats of arms with the motto " Manu Domini munitus
sum." I am fortified and strengthened by the hand of the
Lord. The inscription round the verge runs thus : — " Here
lyeth the bodies of humffrey peyto & Anna his wyfe the
■well humffrey decessed the XXX th of March 1685, and the
sayd Anna Peyto deceassed the of ^ whose
soules God graunt a ioyfull resurrection in God is our hope."
At the -west end is a mural monument containing under
an entablature with a pedimental head supported by
Corinthian columns, busts of Sir Edward Peyto (died
1643) and his wife Elizabeth. On the north wall is
another mural monument containing busts of Sir William
Peyto (died 1609) and his wife Eleanor (died 1636),
under a round arch with a pedimental head, supported
t)y Renaissance columns. On the south side of the
1 She died the 2Sth January., 1604.
306 Shakespeare's land.
chancel is a mural tablet to Margaret Peyto, the
last representative of the family, who died May 22nd,
1746. The first vicar of the church was John Lacy,
instituted in 1414, who on the Monday following Lammas.
Day 1415, had the courage to receive and harbour here
Sir John Oldcastle, commonly called Lord Cobham, a leader
of the Lollards, knowing him to have been indicted as a
heretic ; for this he subsequently received the King's pardon.
On the north side of the churchyard is a fine Jacobean
arched gateway of brick with a pedimental head, which
formed the approach to the church from the old Peyto
mansion which formerly stood on an eminence in a field
called "Image Hill " to the north-west of the church. This
mansion was the manor house of an eminent family named
Peyto, who possessed lands in the county as early as
1278. In the reign of Edward IV. the house was re-built
by John Peyto, and was altered and enlarged by Sir
Edward Peyto in 1632 from the designs of Inigo Jones.
In 1746 Margaret Peyto, the last descendant who bore the
family name, bequeathed the property to her cousin. Lord
Willoughby de Broke, whose heir, in the year 1802, razed it
to the ground. The old fish ponds are still visible
at the foot of the meadow leading from the church. Ther&
is a beautiful view from Bunker's Hill,' half a mile north-
east of the church, and half way up, is a fine spring of water.
Half a mile to the south is Kingston farmhouse, occupjdng-
the site of another fine old manor house, the only remaining
part of which is the kitchen which contains a fine spring of
water. The chapel which stood to the east was pulled
down several years ago when the key was hung on the
branch of an apple tree where it still remains.
Returning to Chesterton Green we can either proceed
southAvards to the Banbury Road by the side of Chesterton
Wood (one mile and a quarter) or eastwards to the village of
Harbury (two miles), which is familiarly termed " Hungry
Harbury," probably owing to the fact that the land is
generally of a poor and hungry or unproductive character.
In 1705 the Court of Quarter Sessions actually made an order
for the maintenance of a pauper on the churchwardens and
overseers of " Hungary Harbury."
The Churcli, which stands in an elevated situation, is
principally in the Early English style. The toicer, which is
large and massive, is of the early part of the 13th century.
1 The name is probably derived from a long mound in it; "Bunker"
being a provincial term for a bank or height.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 307
.The nave and noHh aisle are modern ; the sovth aisle, part
old. The chancel, which has been partially re-built, contains
a priest's door, low side window, and a piscina, all probably
of the 13th century. At the west end of the nave, is a brass
to Jane Wagstaff (died 1563) with the following verse, one
line of which has unfortunately been stolen: —
Beholde the ende my children all, and mark yt well or ye begynne
To deathe are ye subiect and thrall, take hede therefor and flie from
synne
For death on yearthe shall reape & mowe, that llefe therin hath tylde &
sovven
And liefe agayne shall si)ringe & growee, where deathe hath reapt &
also mowen.
In the chancel is another mural brass with the following
inscription :— " Anne Wagstaf davghf to lo. Hanslepp of
Stonithorpe, heare doth lye. Whose vertvovs life did well
deserve eternall memorye. Qve obbijt An. Domini 1624."
The Wagstaff family settled here in the reign of Henry
VIII., the Wagstaff School in the village being built by
Thomas Wagstaff in 1610. On the north aisle floor is
another brass with a Latin inscription to James Wright,
who died 1685, aged 61. A quarter of a mile from
the church, the Great Western Railway passes in a great
cutting 100ft. deep and 600ft. wide, which exposes a fine
section of the lower lias. From hence the road from Leam-
ington to Banbury via Southam may be joined either
at Ufton (one mile and a half north) or Ladbroke (two
miles and a half south east).
ROUTE 28.— LEAMINGTON TO TYSOE via BISHOP'S-
TACHBROOK, NEWBOLD PACEY, MORETON
MORRELL, COMBROOKE, BUTLER'S MARSTON^
AND WHATCOTE.
Leaving Leamington by the road TChich issues from the
town southwards, nearly opposite the Great Western
Station, at Tachbrook Mallory (two miles), we pass-
on the left a farm house in which is embodied the
remains of an old chapel of stone about 40ft. long,
by 13ft. Gin. wide, dedicated to St. James, and
originally built in the reign of Edward III., by John
Malory, lord of the manor, who, in 1337, endowed it for the
maintenance of a priest " to sing mass daily for the health of
his soul and the souls of Margery, his wife, with all the
faithful deceased." Little more than the bare walls remain
with a springer of a chancel arch and the interior of
the opening ot the chancel window. On the south side two-
small windows may be observed, both blocked up. At two
miles and three-quarters we reach the Church of Bishop's
Tachbrook, which consists of a Perpendicular embattled
western tower,, and an Early English nave, with.
Perpendicular clerestory and aisles, and a Decorated
chancel with a south porch. On the noi-th side is a
Norman doorway with cone moulding, now blocked
up, and an enormous buttress 5ft. high and thick.
In the chancel are some interesting marble memorials of
the Wagstaffe family, formerly lords of the manor. On
the north u-all is a monument enclosed by Corinthian
columns, topped by a pediment, to Combe Wagstaffe (died.
1667), and another to Walter Bagot, who was drowned
in the Avon underneath War«-ick Castle in 1800. On the-
south icall is a florid monument to John Wagstaffe (died
1681) and Alice, his wife, and another with classical
columns, surmounted by a pediment and a weeping cherub
on each side to Sir Thomas Wagstaffe, the last of the name-
(died 1708), and Frances, his wife (died 1706). On the-
north wall of the north aisle is a tablet to John Rous, who
died November 6th, 1670, having man-ied Mary, eldest
daughter of William Combe, of Stratford, and widow of
Thomas Wagstaffe, Member of the Restoration Parliament
shakespeake's land. 3Q&
and High Sheriff of the County. There is also a memorial
tablet to Walter Savage Landor, the poet, whose family
lived in the village. In the house belonging to the Landor
family which is filled with beautiful old oak, nearly all
of which has unfortunately been metamorphosed from its-
original purposes, is an interesting portrait of Bishop Juxon
(1583-1663), attributed to Van Dxjck.
Proceeding onwards at three miles and a half, we skirt
Oakley Wood, a noted fox cover, which contains a picturesque
diversity of trees, in the midst of which is a pentagonal
military entrenchment, supposed to be a Roman Camp. A
little further we reach a fine old oak which stands at
a fork of the roads. Taking the track to the right we pass
Wigley Wood on the left and skirt Ashome Hill (four miles
and a quarter), the roadside of which is prettily wooded.
We then pass through the hamlet of Ashome (five miles
and a quarter), and at six miles and a half reach Newbold
Pacey, the church of which, re-built in 1881, in the Early
English style, is approached by a rustic gate, picturesquely
overshadowed by tall and stately trees. The western toiver
on the north side has a gabled roof and contains a Norman
doorway with billet and twisted cable moulding and
an old oak door, all removed from the south side. Another
Norman doorway has been fixed on the south side. On the
north wall of the interior of the nave is a monument
to Edward Carew and his infant daughter Felicia, who
were both interred November 16th, 1668. It consists of a
bust of the father in a concave oval of marble formed in a flat
slab, beneath which the figure of the daughter reclines. The
sides are enclosed by quasi lonie pilasters, surmounted
by an entablature with a pediment ornamented with coats-
of-arms, over which is an esquire's helmet. The triple
lancet window at the east end is filled with stained glass
representing the Crucifixion, by Hardman. The Register
.contains the following entries of interest: — 1554: "John
Puncheon vicar : Mr Hilton leaving the place because
he was a protestant and married." 1642 : " a souldier
wounded in that great battell (Edgehill) between ye King
and the parliament Oct 23 was buried Oct 29."
From hence we proceed to Moreton Morrell (one mile and
three-quarters), the church of which in the Early English
style is in a sadly deteriorated condition. The upper part
of the tower is of brick, the deeply splayed windows are
deprived of their stonework, and the east windoiv is ot
the domestic Tudor type, evidently taken from the adjoin-
ing Manor House. On the south side of the nave near
310 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
the chancel is a piscina with a trefoiled head. On the south
side of the chancel is an important Jacobean monument in
a fine state of preservation. It consists of a divided
compass pediment, in the midst of which an angel stands
supporting two shields ; beneath, under arcades, are
the figures of a gentleman and his wife kneeling face
to face at a double prie dieu, on which rest open books.
The husband wears a pointed beard and ruff, and is clad in
full armour of the period. The wife is attired in ruff
and gown with a hood falling over the shoulders. Cherubs
surmount the flank of the monument. Beneath is an
inscription to Eichard Murden (died October 30th, 1635),
and Mary, his wife, daughter of Thomas Woodward, of
Butler's Marston. On a brass plate to the right is the
following epitaph :— "Elizabeth infant daughter of Stephen
Hervey of Milto" Malsor in ye covnty of North : Esq. by
Mary his wife sole davghr & lieyre of Rich Movrden Esqr.
Ld of this towne, obijt Ivlii 3d 1623." The aliar table 13
small with bulging legs of the late Elizabethan period.
Beneath it is a diamond shaped brass bearing a coat-
of-arms with an inscription to Anna Bagshaw. In the
vestry is a very old oak chest with a curious lock.
Adjoining the church is the Manor House, which embodies
part of an old Tudor mansion. In front of the lawn are
two ponds one above the other, and beyond the upper one
•are the remains of a large moat, which once extended past
the church. There is a tradition that Amy Robsart visited
the house when on a journey, the date of which would
probably be 1558.
Proceeding onwards we join the Fosse Road near Three
"Gates, and at two miles from Moreton Morrell pass Bowshot
Wood,i containing a fine old oak tree and a tumulus, here
Tve join the Kineton Road, and passing Compton Vemey
House (two miles and a half), turn off right at three miles
and a quarter to Combroke (four miles and a quarter),
picturesquely situated in a small valley, the descent to
which is very attractive. The sole object of interest in the
■church, which was rebuilt in 1867, is the basin of the old
1 Tradition says that in the reign of Henry II., Roger Murdac won the
land covered by this wood from William D'Avill, of Walton, by a match
between their greyHonnds, the conditions of the match being that the
■owner of the winning dog should be permitted to take as much land out
of the loser's demesne as he could mark by a single bowshot in length and
breadth. The tradition is, however, rendered dubious by a deed of the
period in which Murdac covenants to pay four marks as consideration
money together witli an annual rent charge of sixpence or a pound of pepper
at Easter.
Shakespeare's land. 311
Norman font, which is 24in. high, 28in. in diameter, and
14in. deep. From hence Butler's Marston is one mile
distant. The tower of the church is late Perpendicular, the
only portions of the body of the building of ancient date
are the pillars and capitals of the arches of the nave, which
are Norman. The font and its shaft are octagonal, the
basin having a sunk quartrefoil in each face. The pulpit
of carved oak bears the date 1632. The Manor House was-
purchased in the reign of Queen Mary by John Woodward,
whose descendants in the female line, still hold it. In 1642
Eichard Woodward, at his own cost, raised a troop of hors&
for King Charles I., and with his younger brother was
killed at the Battle of Edge Hill. In the churchyard is the
base and pedestal of an old cross. At the north end of the
village is a mound apparently an ancient barrow, and there
is another immediately in front of the Vicarage. Crossing
the stream, about half a mile to the east of the village, is
a small Old Packhorse Bridge of about 16ft. span, consisting
of oak pla-nks resting on stone buttresses ; it is now
used as a footbridge only. From Butler's Marston
a direct road conducts to Kineton in one mile. A
mile and a half from Butler's Marston in the direction
of Halford is Pillerton Hersey or Nether Pillerton, which
derives its distinctive name from Hugh de Hercy,
upon whom the lordship was bestowed by Richard I.
The Church is a very interesting building. The chancel is
of the 13th century. The nave and the south aisle
are of the 14th century origin, but with the exception of
the roof of the former were to a great extent reconstructed
in 1873. The nave roof, which is nearly flat, and divided
by moulded purlins and ribs into panels is a fine example
of late 15th century work. The north aisle is wholly
modern and without merit. The chancel, which is of
pleasingly harmonious proportions, is reputed to be the
best example of the 13th century in the county. The
windows are fine lancets with rear arches springing
from shafts with well-carved capitals. The roof is a curious
example of a 17th century imitation of an early roof. In
the south wall of the chancel is a fine pillar piscina joined
with an aunibry, and on the opposite side is a curious double-
arched aumbry. The chancel arch is extremely fine, of the
same period as the chancel. The piers consist of
clustered shafts with moulded bell capitals- carrying a
pointed arch of two courses with hollow mouldings. The
toxver at the west end is of pleasing proportions. The walls-
of the upper stories slightly batter or slope as is not
312 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
uncommon in South Warwickshire. A mile to the south-
east is Pillerton Priors or Over Pillerton, which takes its
distinctive name from a Benedictine Priory formerly-
existing here of which not a vestige now remains. The
church was burnt down about 1666, and has not been
replaced, but burials still take place in the churchyard.
Three miles and a half south-west of Butler's Mars ton is
OxMU. The Church consists of north porch, embattled
western tower with pinnacles, nave and chancel. The
fabric is principally of the Early English period with some
Norman doors and windows of an earlier building and
additions in later styles. The north porch is Early English
with a handsome triple recessed Norman doorway, the
doorway on the south side being also Norman. The nave is
battlemented and is lighted by two single-light? Norman
windows and three Decorated windows of recent insertion.
The clerestory/ is Perpendicular. On each side of the chancel
are low side windows, that on the south being now blocked
up. In the interior, the most easterly window of the nave
contains a stone seat with a plain piscina at the east end ;
above is a stone ledge extending across the window. The
chancel screen is said to haA'e been brought from the church
of Oakham, in Eutlandshire. On the south side of the
chancel are two piscinas side by side, one of them with a
trefoil head being very much restored and containing a
credence table, 'ihefont is very interesting. It is circular
of Transitional Norman type, the bowl being divided into
ornamental compartments by interlacing arcades. Two of
these contain figures of Adam and Eve and the remainder
are filled with very conventional representations of trees
and flower beds. On the floor of the nave is a slab with
the following inscription : — " Hick jacet corpvs de Daniely
Blackford qvy morte Octobris vicessima qvinto An dom
1681 aetatis sve 59. When 1 was yovnge I ventered life
and blood boath for my kinge and for my covntreys good,
in elder yeares my care was cheife to bee sovldiers for him
that shed his blood for mee."
Proceeding south-westwards from hence in one mile and
a quarter we reach the village of Whatcote. The Churcli
consists of south porch, western tower, nave and chancel.
A large part of the walls are Norman. The north door is
good Norman work with shafted jambs and an enriched
moulded arch with billet, lozenge, and cable ornaments. A
curious little human figure is cut on one of the capitals.
The east imidow of the chancel is of three lights with a
rather acutely pointed arch and tracery of the kind
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 313
commonly called interlacing uncusped. On the south side
is a small square headed low side window. The priest's
door on the same side is of the 13th century. The po7-ch is
of the loth century with a good moulded arch. The tower
is Early English with walls slightly battering or sloping, a
local peculiarity. The chancel arch is pointed, of the 13th
century with double splayed jambs.. In the nave are eight
good oak benches, remarkably fine examples of early 15th
century work with traceried panels and buttresses. Th&
Communion table is of good massive 17th century tj^e, and
the balustrade of the Sacrarium is of the same character.
The font is a rudely wrought cup shaped bowl, probably
early 13th century. ISext to tlie priests' door on the south
side of the chapel is an incised slab bearing a cross with a
chalice in its stem and the following inscription to a
former rector, who died in 1485:— "hie jacet dfis Thomas
Nelle quondam Eector istius Ecclesie qui obiit die vii mens
Novembris Ao dni Mt>CCCGLXXXVo cui' aie ppcietur deus
amen." Next to this is a small brass, bearing a defaced
effigy of his successor, William Auldington, who died in
1511, and this inscription :— " Pray for the sowl of Sr
Wyllm Auldyngton som tyme parson here on whos sowle-
ihu haue myrcy." Inside the Communion rails is an
incised slab with the following epitaph, commemorating
another Rector who died at the age of 104, and his wife,
aged 88 : — " Hie jacet Johannes Davenport TOannis et sex
mensibus hujus ecclesise Rector qui obiit 20 die July anno
domi 1668 setatis sua3 104. Una cum marito jacet uxor
amantissima qu£e obiit 18 die Aprilis anno domi 1656 ajtatis-
suae 88. Partes superiores super terram teruntur." From
hence a pleasant road leads, in three miles, to Tysoe.
1
EOUTE 29.— LEAMINGTON TO LIGHTHORNE AND
KINETON.
Leaving Leamington by the Tachbrook Road, we pass
through Tachbrook, and at Oakley Wood join the Banbury
Road, which we travel over until we reach the southern end
of Chesterton Wood (seven miles and a quarter), whence a
Toad on the right conducts to Lighthorne (eight miles).
The village nestling cosily in a wooded dell is invisible
imtil closely approached. The Church, which stands at the
west end on an eminence, is of stone, and consists of
chancel, nave, north aisle, mortuary chapel at the end of
north aisle and south porch. With the exception of the
tower, which is of the last century, the whole fabric was
re-built in the Early English style in 1875-6, in memory of
the Hon. R. R. Verney, third son of Robert John, ninth
Baron Willoughby de Broke. On the south side of the
nave in the second window from the west are some quaint
and interesting remains of old painted glass, representing
St. Sebastian, which formerly formed part of the east
window, and in the furthest light of the first window of the
'Chancel from the west are the arms of Beauchamp, Earl of
Warwick, mentioned by Dugdale, " Gules a fesse betwixt
six cross crosslets or," in a heater shaped shield. On the
-north side of the chancel is a square brass to Dod, a former
rector, died 1707. In the noii,h aisle in the fourth window
from the west end are the Willoughby arms, with the
motto, " Virtue vaunceth," which were formerly in the east
window with the figure of St. Sebastian. Two very
beautiful modern stained windows by Powell, of White-
friars, adorn the church, one at the east end of the chancel
representing " the Three Maries," at the other at the east
end of the mortuary chapel, containing figures of St. John
and St. Michael, illustrating the Soldier of Faith, presented
by the Officers of the 52nd Light Infantry, in memory of
the Hon. R. R. Verney, who died October 4th, 1872. In
the east wall of the tower is a very curious old coat-of-arms
•of the Willoughby family with the wyverns as supporters.
The tower, which serves as a vestry also, contains an old
parish chest of the Decorated period. The font of alabaster
.and stone is handsome. -Some years ago two skeLetons
sbdakespeaee's land,. 31&
were discovered on the north side of the church. They
were embedded in some curious dark substance, and their
skulls were protected by three limestones. The late Mr.
Matthew Bloxam believed them to be the remains of
excommunicated persons, or of persons who had incurred
the displeasure of the parish priest of the period.^ The
Kectory garden contains a remarkably fine Cedar of
Lebanon of immense size. In a small wood or spinney,
three-quarters of a mile from the village, on the left hand
side of the road to Moreton Morrell, is a petrifying spring
called Piper's Bath from an old farmer at Westfield, who
in the first half of this century used to bathe in it.
From hence a road leads in one mile and three-quarters
to Moreton Morrell, and by another road Kineton may be
reached in three miles and a half, or by taking a road to the
south-east for one mile and a quarter, the Banbury Road
may be rejoined one mile to the north of Gaydon.
1 The Rector in the reign of James I. chronicled the births of his
children in a quaintly minute fashion : — " Elizabeth Lees ye dowghter of
Raphe Lees was borne vppon munday at nighte, ye 18 of marche : 1610 ;
ye howerre was about one of the clooke at after midnighte ; soe that by
Bomme reekninge it is beloungeinge to twesdaye. ye moone was at the full
ye 18 day 30 minutes before iiowne : ye signe was Libra : ye Dominicall
Letter was f : for ye yeare followiuge : and easter daye was anno sequenti •/.
1611. ye 24 of marche & o(ir Ladie daye ye munday e in easter weeke."
"Anno: dom : 1613 Maria Lees the doughter of Raphe Lees parson of
Lighthorne was borne the twentie & seventhe day of may Anno dom :
1613 : beinge the thursday in Whitsonweeke, betweene the howers of Tenne
& Eleven in the afternoowne. E was the dominicall Letter : the signe was.
Aquarius : the full moone was the 23 day before. (.yt was the first yeare
after Leape year.), vndecimo Anno regis Jacobi : '/.Christned the 28 daye of
the same monntlie •.'j."
ROUTE 30.— LEAMINGTON TO WARMINGTON,
■Quitting Leamington by the Tachbrook Road and passing
through Taclibrook, we join the Banbury Road at Oakley
Wood. Soon after passing which a splendid panoramic
view is revealed, of which Highdown Clump on the
left forms the foreground, and the handsome windmill
at Chesterton constitutes for a long distance a prominent
object. At six miles and a quarter we cross the Fosse
Road, at the corner of which on the left, is Harwood's House,
a noted old inn in the coaching days. The road soon after-
wards ascends through a pretty strip of Chesterton Wood, in
which, on its formation about 1870, to provide against the
inconvenient character of the old road, three male skeletons
were found about 2^ft. below the surface. They were all
laid with their feet to the east, one of them being a
•complete skeleton, teeth and all of a very tall strong man.
The probability is that they represented soldiers who had
been killed in some skirmish while defending the hill and
hastily buried. The rooks frequent this wood in great
numbers. Immediately after passing the wood som«
remains of a Eoman Camp may be traced in a field on the
left. Coins are occasionally found in the vicinity, one being
discovered in ISiK) of the reign of the Emperor Allectus
(c. A.D. 290), bearing the mark of .the London Mint. The
Burton Dassett Beacon and Windmill then display them-
selves immediately in front, wdiile the Round Tower on
Edge Hill assumes prominence to the right of the foreground
and the Malvern Hills become visible on the extreme right.
At Gaydon Inn, the road to Kineton (two miles and three-
quarters), branches off on the right, and on the western slope
of Gaydon Hill (half a mile further on the left), is Gaydon
spinney, a noted fox cover; the south-west side exhibits
noticeable entrenchments. Bawcott's cover lies to the east.
Burton Dassett Beacon and Windmill continue to form
picturesque features in the landscape as we skirt their
base, and then the stately tower of Burton Dassett Church
Jbecomes visible, nestling amid trees on the slope of the
next hill. A little further, the spire of Avon Dassett peeps
out from the foliage, and then the whole of the church
gradually discloses itself. Immediately after this 'we arrive
shakespeaee's land. 317
at the foot of the hill on which Wannington stands, on
the slope of which the houses are scattered in the most
•charming fashion, some cosily enveloped in apple orchards,
and others dotted about under the shelter of handsome
elms. The church stands on the brow of the hill 150ft,
above the village green, and is approached on the north
.side by a flight of thirty-seven stone steps; on the south
it is level with the churchyard. It is principally constructed
in the Decorated style of the 14th century and consists of a
low western tower, nave with aisles, north and south
porches with a lady chapel, and " domus inclusi." The
totoer in the lower stage is Decorated, but the upper
windows are in the Perpendicular style. Tiie arches of the
nave on both sides are supported by four short piers with
high plinths ; three of the arches on each side are of the
Transition Norman period, and the fourth is in the
Decorated style. The north aisle, which contains a well-
designed east window, is probably of the end of the 13th
century, the style being Early Decorated. The south aisle
with its porch is a later specimen of the Decorated style,
being evidently of the 14th century. In the wall of this
aisle is a doorway to the staircase which formerly led to
a rood loft. The chancel, which is a step lower than the
nave, is of the 14th century. The east windoiv, whicli is of
four lights, is filled with stained glass by Clayton and
Bell, representing the Entombment, Kesurrection, Ascension,
and the Descent of the Holy Ghost. The no7ih and south
windows are square-headed, and next to the chancel arch on
each side is a low side window either for lepers to hear the
service or for "utter confession." The sedilia of three
seats and the piscina are very fine specimens of Decorated
work. The pulptt, of oak, is of the time of Charles I.
and well carved. The font is cylindrical of plain Norman
type. The Lady Chapel on the north side of the chancel,
now used as a vestry, is entered by an ogee-headed doorway,
from which there is a descent of three steps. Resting
on brackets, underneath a square window in the east wall, is a
stone altar, exhibiting three of the five consecration crosses
with which it was originally marked, and by the side of it
is a Decorated piscina. In the west wall is a fireplace
of late date, which occupies the position of an ancient
doorway into the churchyard, and the place also contains
a good bench and two chests of oak. In the south-west
angle is a stone staircase leading to a chamber above, which
was once inhabited by one of those anchorites or recluses
who, in ancient times, lived secluded from the world. In
318 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
the west wall is an original fireplace from which the smoke
in olden days escaped by trefoil-shaped openings in the
sides of the pinnacle over a necessarium which occupies
the north west angle. In the south wall is a small
Decorated window through which observation might be
kept on the high altar ; this window is barred and is
furnished with a hinged shutter. There are also small
windows in the north and east walls. This cell forms a
most interesting and perfect specimen of the ancient
" Domus inclusi " or " anchorage." The churchyard com-
mands a lovely view. About half-way down the path
leading from 'the south porch to the gate and a few yards
from its left-hand side, is a headstone about 20in. high
with the following inscription : — " Here lieth the body of
Alexander Gourdin,^ Capitaine, buried the 25 day of October
Anno Domi: 1642." This is a memento of the Battle of
Edge Hill, regarding which the Eegister contains the
following interesting entries ; — "The Battell was fought by
our Sovraine Lord King Charles and the Earle of Essex the
three and twentieth Day of October, beeing Sabbeath Day
Ano Dom : 1642 partely between Radwaie and Kington.
Richard Sauner, Captaine of a Foot Companie, a gentleman
of Worcestershier was buried in Warmington Churchyard,
the four and twentieth day of October Ano Dom : 1642.
Alexander Gourden,- a Scotsman was buried the five and
twentieth day of October Ano Dom : 1642 ut supra. Also
seven other were buried in Warmington Churchyard
shortly after, whose names I know not, and it is reported
that one or two more were buried within the fielde and
winde^ of Warmington aforesaid." The following entry
relates to a Head Master of St. Paul's School who was
interred December 21, 1790, on the north side of the church
without any memorial stone:— " George Thickness Gent:
many years master of St. Paul's." The road sloping down
from the church to the village green is bordered by fine
elms. At the top of the green is the picturesque old Manor
House, built in the 16th century, consisting, as was then the
custom, of a central block, flanked on each side by a
projecting wing with a gable, terminating in a "hip-knob."
The house contains several good chimneys and fireplaces.
The village pond in front has, at the end, a large trough
furnishe d with conveniences for sheep washing.
1 and 2 The name is diiferently spelled on the tombstone and in the
Register.
3 The " field " was on the hill side to the east of the church where about
1850 the bones of a man were found and interred in the churchyard, the
" winde " was a farm road which formerly ran tcinding about the hill side.
EOUTE 31.— WARWICK TO RADWAY via WELLES-
BOURNE, COMPTON VERNEY, KINETON AND
LITTLE KINETON.
Leaving Warwick by West Street, we take the road via
longbridge and Barford, and in six miles reach Wellesboume,
which consists of two divisions. Wellesbourne Hastings, so
called from the familj' of Hastang, to whom that manor
was granted by one of the ancient Earls of Warwick, and
Wellesbourne Moimtford, from a family of the latter name
wlio possessed this manor in the reign of Henry I. The
Churcli, which stands in Wellesbourne Hastings, has a late
15th century embattled tower of ordinary Warwickshire
type with pinnacles. The nave and chancel were re-built in
1847 with an absence of appreciation for their ancient
features. On the south side of the chancel is a fine Norman
arch with cable moulding, which before the renovation
formed the entrance to the chancel. In front of the altar
is a well preserved brass to Sir Thomas le Strange, Constable
of Ireland in the reign of Henry VI., and whose family were
lords of the manor from the reign of Richard II. to that of
Henry VI., when the property passed by marriage to the
Mordaunt family, of Walton. Sir Thomas is clad in armour
and the following inscription runs round the verge of the
brass : — " Hie iacet Thomas le Straunge miles nuper
constabularius regis in hibernia qui obijt tertio die Maij
Anno domini MCCCCXXVI. et regni regis Henrici sexti
quarto, cuius animse ppitietur deus." On the south side of
the chancel is a tablet to Paul Ayl worth, a charitable
benefactor, who died 1659. The modern reredos, by
Salviati, presented by Lady Charles Paulet, is handsome,
and there is a good modern brass on the south wall of the
nave to the Rev. Lord Charles Paulet, a former vicar, who
died 1870.
On a by-road, about three mile south-east, is the village
of Loxley, containing a small church with some interesting
features. The tower which adjoins the south-west corner
of the nave formerly opened to the nave and to a south
aisle, which has disappeared, by pointed arches of the 13th
century now built up. The lowest stage only of the tower
is 13th century, the upper part and the whole of the nave
320 Shakespeare's land.
having been re-built in the 18th century in very rude
fashion, with the usual semi-circular headed windows.
Parts of the north wall of the chancel are very ancient,
with herring-bone masonry, and other indications of early
work, possibly Saxon. The south wall is partly 13th
century with a lancet window, and recently refixed on
this side is a pillar piscina. The east window is of the
18th century, but traces of a pointed arched window of
two lights are A^isible. In the vicarage garden is a very
old mulberry tree, believed to contemporary with Sh*ake-
speare's. Robin Hood is supposed by many to have been
a native of the parish.
Resuming our original route, at seven miles and a half
we reach the lodge gate of Walton Hall, the seat of Sir
Charles Mor daunt, to which an avenue leads nearly a mile
in length, studded with many fine beeches mixed with oaks
and elms. The property soon after the Conquest was held
by Nicholas de David Villa, or 'D'Aiville, and in the reign
of Henry VIII. passed by marriage to Robert Mordaunt,
of Hampsted, in Essex, son of William Mordaunt, chief of
the prothonotaries of the Court of Common Pleas, in whose
family it has ever since remained. The house, which
stand's in a park of about 250 acres, is a handsome Gothic
mansion built in 1860 from designs by the late Sir G. G.
Scott. In front of it is a line piece of ornamental water
fed by the Dene brook and spanned by a handsome bridge
of three arches in the same style as the house. On the
south side are three raised terraces containing a very fine
cedar and two large acacias. The Town Field beyond,
so called from a hamlet which formerly existed there, was
the scene of a skirmish after the Battle of Edge Hill, relics
of the fight having been from time to time dug up. The
east side is sheltered by Bath Hill and Friz Hill, the
slopes of which are picturesquely timbered. On Bath
Hill is the Bath House, which gives birth to a
copious spring issuing from a basin 12ft. long by
8ft. broad and 6ft. deep. The lower part of the
house is evidently ancient but the upper part, from
which there is a charming view, was erected about the
commencement of this century. The handsome Entrance
Hall of the mansion is of two stages, supported by pillars
of Cornish and Derbyshire marble. It contains some very
fine heads of stags and roe deer and other stuffed animals
artistically grouped. In the passage leading to the offices
a perfect forest of antlers decorates the walls. In the
Library are two remarkably scarce works, Halstead's
Shakespeare's land. 321
" Genealogies," 1685, and " The Herball," by John Gerarcle,
1597. A case in this room contains, among other curiosities,
a velvet purse ornamented with silver lace and a gold vase-
shaped cup v^'ith a cover, both the gift of Queen Anne ; a
beautiful miniature of Charles Mordauiit, the famous Earl
of Peterborough (1659-1736) ; the ivory handled silver seal
of Bishop Hooper (1495-1555), bearing his arms witli the
mitre ; two handsome Norwegian peg tankards in silver ;
a prayer book given by King James II. to Mrs. Dan vers
when she was bed-chamberwoman to the Princess Anne.
Very interesting are the records of sport methodically and
regularly kept by Sir Charles Mordaunt since the year 1855.
In the Dining Eoom,:— beautiful portrait of "Mrs. Charles
Mordaunt " (died 1816), by Reynolds ; " Le Strange
Mordaunt" first Baronet, 1611 ; "Bishop Ken" and "Bishop
Hooper " ; " Henry, Fourth Lord Mordaunt, Baron of
Turvey " (died 1608) ; " John, Lord Mordaunt of Eyegate,
Viscount Avalon," 1650 ; " Henry Mordaunt, Second Earl of
Peterborough," Groom of the Stole to James II. (died
1697) ; " William, Duke of Gloucester " (died 1700, aged
10). " At the upper end of the room is a finely carved
buffet, by Mr. Kendall, of Warwick. Morning Room : —
" Mrs. Cale " ; characteristic portraits of " Thomas Prowse
and Elizabeth. Prowse," of Turvey (died 1725). Billiard
Room : — " A Cock and Ducks" and " A picture of Fruit," by
Hondecoeter ; and a cleverly executed tracing by Lord Brooke
of a drawing of •' Deer," sketched on an old house at
Glenfeshie by Sir Edwin Landseer.
The Chnrch, which stands in the grounds, is a small
classical building erected in 1750 and contains nothing of
interest except a plain circular font of Norman type
mounted on a modern shaft.
Returning to the high road we soon cross the Fosse Road
and, descending a richly wooded hill, in one mile arrive at
•Compton Verney, the seat of Lord Willouyhby de Broke, at
present occupied by Ernest Cassel, Esq. This manor was
anciently termed Compton Murdac, from a family of the
latter name who held it in the reign of Henry I. In 1371
the property was made over to Alice Perers, mistress of
King Edward III. ; it was confiscated by Richard II.
immediately on his accession, but afterwards granted to
Sir William Windsor, whom she had married. In 1442 it
came into the possession of Richard Vernej', the ancestor
of the present possessor, Avho built a house which Avas
pulled down in the last century. The present mansion,
which was built about the year 1751, is in the Classical
M
322 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
style and consists of a main hlock with a tetrastyle portico
of" the Corinthian order on the east side flanked by wings.
The west front faces the road. The house stands in an
undulating park of about 150 acres, richly studded with
handsome timber and commanding delightful views in the
direction of the Edge hills. The grounds contain a large
extent of ornamental water which flows past the house on
the south where it is crossed by a stone bridge which
carries the avenue of approach ; lower down it is traversed
by another bridge which sustains the main road and then
again expands to form an attractive object from the west
front. On the edge of the lake near the house is an obelisk
which marks the site of the family graveyard, formerly
attached to an old Benedictine chapel, pulled down in 1772.
The Great Hall is a lofty and handsome apartment, supported
at the south end by four Corinthian columns. It contains
over the mantelpiece a fine full-length portrait of Queen
Elizabeth by Zucchero, in which the Queen is represented in
a dress which she is said to have worn when she received
the news of the defeat of the Spanish Armada. On each
side of it are large panel paintings by Zuccharelli, repre-
senting various ancient buildings and monuments grouped
together. The north side is also ornamented by similar
panel pictures by the same artist. The Dining Room which
is in the west front, contains the following pictures: —
Dining Room. — Pictures : " Henry Pe_vto, eighth Lord Willoughby de
Broke (1773-1S52) in his robes," Partridge ; "*Battle of Camperdown, Oct.
11, 1797." In the forepart is Admiral Duncan's flagship, " The Venerable,"
with.Jack Ci'awford, the gallant seaman, in the act of nailing the colours
to the masthead after they had been shot a-nay by the enemy, Loiitker-
hov.rg, 1790. " *Battle of the Nile, August 1, 179S, at the moment of
the blowing up of " L'Orient," the flagship of the French Admiral, "
Loutherhoiirg, 1800 i ; " *Sir Fulke Greville, Loid Broke (1554-16-28;, with
a ' King Charles ' spaniel;" "The Countess of Nottingham ^ ; " "Lady
Elizabeth Southwell, daughter of the Countess of Nottingham and Maid of
Honour to Queen Elizabeths;" "Sir Richard Verney, third Lord
1 The third picture of this set, " Lord Howe's victoiy of June 1, 1794,"
is in Greenwich Hospital.
2 This lady is reputed to have kept back a ring which is said to have
been sent by the Earl of Essex to Queen Elizabeth after he received
sentence of death, and which it is said the Queen had given him with
an intimation " that if ever he forfeited her favour, if he sent it back
to her, the sight of it would ensure her forgiveness." It is further said
that the Countess when on her deathbed two years afterwards revealed the
truth to the Queen and implored her forgiveness, the answer she received
being " God may forgive you, but I never can ! " The accuracy of the
story is disputed.
s An autograph letter from Queen Elizabeth to her condoling with her on
the death of her husband. Sir Robert Southwell, is in the iwssession
of Lord Willoughby de Broke.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAXD. 323
Willougbby de Broke" (died 1711); "Richard Harley, Earl of Oxford
(1661-1724) in his robes, weaiiag the insignia of the Garter ; " " Margaret
Greville. Lady Verney (died ItJSl), wife of Sir Richard Verney and sister to
Sir Fulke Greville;" "King Charles I.," after Van Pyck ; "Queen
Henrietta Maria and Child," after VanDyck; "Margaret, Lady WiUoughby
de Broke, wife of Henry Peyto, eighth Baron," Partridge.
The Library contains an interesting collection of half-
length portraits, the principal of which are : —
Library. — Portraits : "Jane Seymour," (1509-1537) ; " Prince Rupert,
"Catherine, wife of Sir Greville Verney and daughter of Sir Robert
Southwell," (died 1657); "Richard Verney, Lord WiUoughby de
Broke;" " Sir Robert Heath, Lord Chief Justice," (1642-164S); Cornells
Janssens: "Lady Heath," " Sir- Greville Verney," (1639) ; " Lady Mai-garet
Mennes, wife of Sir Matthew Mermes, afterwards Countess of Cariick ; "
"Sir Matthew Mennes;" "Dr. George Verney, Dean of Windsor,"
"Fourth Lord WiUoughby de Broke," (died 172S") ; "Elizabeth Verney,
daughter of Thomas, Lord Mennes."
MoRSixG Room. — Pictures : " Hon. John Verney (1700-1741) in his robes
as Master of the Rolls," Hudson: " Head of Charles I " in three asi)ects,
painted for Bernini, to model from, i after Van Dyck ; "Lord North,
Gainsborough; "Sarah Verney, sister of John Peyto, sixth Baron,"
Oainsborov.gh ; "Louisa, wife of John Peyto, sixth Baron," Ronvnty ;
"Group of John, sixth Baron, his wife Louisa, daughter of Lord Xorth,
and their chSlUxen" Zoffany.
On the Upper Floor. — Pictures: "Anthony, Lord Faversham and
Margaret, his wife ; " " Hon. Mrs. Abigail Verney, Miss Margaret Verney,
and Hon. John Verney ; " "Mr. Auditor Harley (1664-1735;, \vith a roll
of accounts in his hand."
Some good Flemish tapestry hangs in a framework near
the staircase. In the Library are two books which formerly
belonged to Dudley, Earl of Leicester, both of which are
impressed on the side with the crest of the Bear and
Kagged Staff, and the initials " R. D." The first of these is
an Italian translation of Pauliis Jovius, by Domenichi (4to
Venetia, 1560) ; the other is a thick duodecimo volume
containing four Italian tracts.
The Chapel stands on the north side of the house and is a
plain rectaDgular building in the Italian style, erected in
1772, to take the place of the old chapel near the pool which
was then pulled down and the monuments and windows
removed. In the centre of the interior on a high tomb are
the recumbent effigies in alabaster of Sir Richard Verney
(died 1630) and his wife (died 1631). The Knight is in full
armour, the outlines of which are gilt, and his wife is
attired in mantle, gown and ruU, of the early part of
the 17th centurj'. The following inscription runs round
the verge of the tomb: — "Hie iacent Richardvs Vernev
miles, 4^'i obiit VIIo die Augti Ao Dui ilDCXXX et seta't
STse LXVII et Dna Margareta vxor eius qvte obiit
1 The original is in the Van Dyck room at Windsor Castle.
324 shakespeaee"s land.
XXVIo die Marti Ao D"i MDCXXXI et fetat LXX." The
tomb is divided on each side into two panels separated
by square-headed pilasters. The arms are at the head of
the tomb and a shield with escutcheon at the foot. The
monument was the work of a sculptor of Fetter Lane,
named Marshall. On the south wall near the altar, under a
pedimental headed canopy supported by Corinthian
columns, is a fine bust of Sir Greville Verney, who is repre-
sented with a flowing wig, cravat, mantle, and breastplate,
crossed by a ribbon from which is suspended the badge
of the Ancient Order of the Bath, bestowed on him at the
coronation of Charles II., subsequent to which no further
creations were made.^ The inscription runs thus: — "To
the memory of Si' Grevill Verney Xnight of the Honovrable
order of the Bath. The Honovrable the Lady Diana Verney
his wife, eldest doughter to the Right Honovrable William
Earl of Bedford erected this monvment. He was borne the
26th day of Jan: 1648 maryed the 29th of Avgvst 1667 and
dyed the 23rd day of Ivly 1668." On the south side of the
aitar is a mural tablet with a medallion to Henry Peyto,
Baron Willoughby de Broke (died December 16th, 1852). On
the north wall near the altar is a pedimental-headed tablet
with medallions, to the memorj* of the Right Hon. John
Verney, Master of the Rolls (died August 5th, 1741, in
his 41st year), and of his wife Abigail, daughter of
the Hon. Edward Harley, who died June 10th, 1760,
in her 58th year. On the north side of the altar
is a mural tablet to Elizabeth, wife to John Peyto
Yerrey, Baron Willoughby de Broke, died April 2nd, 1798.
On that part of the floor nearest to the east end ranging
from south to north are the following slabs: — A stone
containing a brass incised with figures of Richard Verney
(died 1526) in armour, and Anne, his wife, in robe and hood,
with effigies beneath of nine sons, the heads of four of
whom appear behind the shoulders of the others, and five
daughters, and the following mutilated inscription : — " Off
your charitie praj'e for the souUes of . . . . his ....
dptd out of this prent worlde the xxvii. daye of the
monethe of September in the yere of our lord god
MoCCCCCo . . ." Next to this on the altar dais are three
slabs with Latin inscriptions on brass to the memory of
treorge Verney, died February 20th, 1689, aged 24 ; Greville
Terney, died May 12th, 1642 ; Greville Verney (his son),
1 The present Order of thi Bath was instituted on an entirely new
foundation by George I. in 1725.
shakespeake"s land. 325
died 9th December, 1648. At the side is a shib to Lady
Katherine Veruey, died April, 1657. Beginning again on
the south side we come to an incised brass figure of a female
with the following inscription :— " Off your charitepray for
the sole off Ann Odyngsale the wyfe off mayster Kdwarde
odyngsale of Long ygyngcton dogter of M. Kicharde Verney
esquyer ye whyche deptyd yezere of or lord M"CCCCCXXIVo
whose sole Jhu haue mcy." Adjoining this is a brass inscrij)-
tion to the memory of Greville Verney, followed by slabs to
AVilliam Verney (died 1683j, Richard Verney (died 1698),
and John Verney (died 1600). Next to these is the incised
figure of George'Verney, in armour, with this inscription: —
" Heere lies George Verney of Compton Esq. son of
Sr Richard Verney ^ Knight and hvsband of lane the
daughter of 'William Lucy of Charlcot Esq. by whom he had
one Sonne and fower davghters hee died the eight day of
Aprill Anno dni 1574." Below this in a lozenge-shaped
brass is an inscription to John Verney, an infant born and
died August 2nd, 162U. On each side of the church are
three circular-headed windows containing old and curious
stained glass, brought from the ancient chapel, and for the
purpose of adapting it for its present position filled out
■\\-ith a bordering of modern glass of indifferent design. In
some instances portions of the glass have evidently been
misplaced. Commencing on the north side next the east
end, the subjects appear to be as follows :
Window No. 1 : "'The Ascension," manv figures. The skirt onlj' of the
Saviour's robe is visible, tlie upjjer part being mutilated ; underneath is
the inscription : " Spectantibus eis sursum sublatus est sum que nube
subduxit eorum ociilis 2 Act cap. 1, ver. 9, 1034." In each of tlie lower
corners is the Willoughby crest, and between the two crests Lady Alice
Verney kneeling. She wears a lace embroidered gown with short upper
sleeves and purple lower sleeves. Behind her is a son with embroidered d(jublet
loose parti-coloured trunk hose, purple stockings and shoes. Inscrii)tion :
" Alice Thame Lady Veiuey." 3 IVimlow Ko. 2 (centre) : "St. Christopher" ;
(left), " St. George"; (right), "St. Anthony." Below, coats-of-arms,
meruoiials of John Peyto, Lord Willoughby de Broke (died 1S16), and his
wife, Louisa North. Wnnloic No. 8 : Old ghiss, badly arranged. In the
upper part, arms. Below, First Compartment (left) : "A Palatial Apai-t-
1 This Sir Richard Verney, who died 1556, is the Vavney of Sir Walter
Scott's " Keuilworth." His name was without the slightest ground dragged
into the scurrilous libel on Leicester, erroneously attributed to Father
Persons, and commonly called "Leicester's Commonwealth," which was
published in 1584, and which furnished the groundwork of the statements
on which Scott mainly founded his story. Sir Richard Verney was a
private friend of Robei-t Dudley's, and died fom- years before Amy
Robsart.
2 " While they beheld, he was taken up, and a cloud received liim out of
their .-iight." 3 Her husband, Sir Thomas Veruey, died 153(5-7.
326 shakespeaee's land.
ment," in which St. Catherine of Siena,i attired in nun's dress with
a glory round her head and rosary at her girdle, kneels to the Saviour,
the upper part of whose body is surrounded by a glory. He takes the
heart out of the bosom of the Saint with his right hand, and with his left
clasps her right hand. Cherubs above. Second Compartment : " St.
Catherine of Siena kneeling on clouds before the Saviour seated on clouds,
His hands and feet having the marks of the nails." He takes her hand.
At His right hand is seated the Vii-gin. Above their heads the Saviour
again appears seated amongst clouds surrounded bj' angels. In the
distance a tower and a domed church. Third Compartment : "The
Crucifixion, with the Thieves." "The Virgin," and many other figures.
Fourth Compartment : " The Entombment." Below are three compartments
of arms. In the centre one, " Sir Greville Veriiey," 2 " Catherine South-
well." Windoir Jo. * (commencing at the west end of the south side) :
In the upper part, arms. Below, First Compartment (left) : " The Presen-
tation in the Temple " ; " The Saviour in the arms of St. Anne"; "The
Virgin"; "St. Joseph"; "Priests." Second Compartment: "St.
Catherine of Siena kneeling before The Saviour who gives her a crown
of thoras with one hand, and in his other holds a crown of gold and jewels.
Third Compartment : "Jesus in the Temple teaching the Doctors" (date 100.3).
Fourth Compartment: "The Temptation in the Wilderness"; '"Satan
offering the Stone." He is represented as a man with flowing beard and
hair, clothed in robes which he holds up, exhibiting two griffin's claws for
feet. In the distance are two diminutive figures of the Saviour, and
conventional devil with homs on a "high place." Below are two coats-
of-amis, and between them figm-es of a man and woman. The latter wears
a white ilress and bUck cloak. In the back ground is a Temple. Under-
neath, "Sir Richard Verney,"^ "Margaret Greville."* IVindotr No. 5:
Three canopies with ornaments above them, and long compartments
underneath. In the centre, " St. Barbara" ; on the right, "St. ilai-garet
standing on a dragon"; and on the left, "St. Katherine of Alexandria
with the inverted sword." Below, three compartments of arms. Windoio
No. (3 : " The Marriage of the Virgin," in six scenes. First : The Virgin
and St. Joseph kneeling before a High Priest wearing a triple tiara and
seated on a throne surrounded by men. Second : " The Feast of the
Passion " ; an elderly man and others seated at a table with dishes on it.
Third: "The Anntmciation." Fourth: "The Birth of St. John the
Baptist." "Elizabeth in bed attended by a handmaid." Two other
handmaids are bathing the new-bom babe in a bronze bath. Zacharias in
a high cap looking on. Fifth : "The Magi and the Infant Saviour."
Sixth: "The Presentation in the Temple." Below, two compartments
of arms, and between them a lady kneeling at a desk with her two sons
behind her, and the inscription: — "Anne Lady Varney 1558." ^ East
Window (centre) : " The Crucifixion," with the Thieves, whose arms are
thrown back over the cross bar. Many figures. " Rising from the Penitent
Thief," is the figtire of an angel conveying his soul in his clasped hands,
while a large crimson demon with a fiendish impression of face soars
away with the sotd of the Impenitent Thief. In two compartments below
are coats-of-arms, and in the centre are arms and this inscription:- " Dr.
George Vemey ^ Lord Willoughby de Broke Dean of Windsor 2nd son of
Richard Lord" Willoughby de Broke mar. Margt. Heath." On the north
side is "St. Leonard with the broken fetters," and in the compartment
below is "a man in a tabard, kneeling with his five sons behind him."
"Sir Chiirles Howard, Earl of Xottingham ' Lord High Admiral";
" Catherine, daughter of Henry Cary, Lord Htinsdon." South side : " St.
1 Born 1347, died 13S0 ; canonized 1461. 2 Died 1642. 3 Died
1£30. * Died 1631. 5 Daughter of William Danvers and wife of
Sir Richard Verney, who died 1526-7. 6 pjed 1728. ' Died 1(K4.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 327
Giles with the wounded hind." In the compartment helow is " A lady
wearing a pedimental head dress i and an heraldic cloak, kneeling with five
daughters behind her." Underneath is "Sir Robert Southwell, Knight " 2;
■" Eliz Hosvard Dauglir of Charles : Earl of Nottingham "
Resuming our route, the road runs through a beautiful
avenue of elms to Pittem Hill from whence there is a
very tine view of the Edge Hills and the Yale of the Red
Horse. Descending from hence towards Kineton at a
little distance to the right before reaching the station, is a
well termed King John's Well. On the opposite side of the
railway is a round conical hill, truncated, which formerly
had a ditch round it still partly tracealile. The spot is
covered with fir trees, and is known as King John's Castle,
at which tradition says that King for sometime kept his
court. It was probably a Saxon fort. Kineton (ten miles
and a half) is a large village without special characteristics.
The Church, situated in its centre, has been to a great extent
re-built. The tower is Perpendicular all but the western
door, a large and fine example of the latter half of the 13th
century, with triple recessed and shafted jambs and
elaborately moulded arch. The rest of the church Avas
re-built in 175.5, and the windows were converted into the
Perpendicular style in 188-1. The Communion Table is of
oak, the front being divided into panels with a baluster at
each end. The presbytery also contains a couple of old oak
chairs and a credence table. In the chancel are several
monuments to the Bentley family, formerly lords of the
manor. Under a comparatively modern arched recess at
the west end of the aisle is the recumbent effigy of a priest,
the lower part of the legs built into the wall. It is much
defaced, but the vestments are clearly defined, the
maniple hanging on the left wrist being very conspicuous.
It is probably of the 15th century.
From hence, descending towards Little Kineton (half a
mile), we come to the brook, which runs in a picturesque
dell, on the left bank of which in the year 18.53 two
skeletons were discovered lying one across the other, which
were supposed to be those of soldiers killed in defending
the ford from an attack by Prince Rupert's troopers. A
little further on the left is the Manor House, beyond which
on the right we reach a row of ancient yews, in front of
which formerly stood a large mansion, which was partially
^ These head-dressea were not worn much after 1550, and the figure
therefore probably represents Anne, Lady Verney (died 1558%
2 His daughter, Catherine, married Sir Qreville Verney (who died 1642) ;
another daughter, Elizabeth, contracted a bigamous marriage with Sir
Robert Dudley, son of the Earl of Leicester.
328 shakespeaee's land.
re-built at the end of the last century atid never finished.
It was purchased about 1834 by the eighth Lord Willoughby
de Broke and pulled down, the stone being used to build
the bridge at Compton Vemey. This house was in 1744 the
scene of a dreadful murder. It was inhabited by two
maiden sisters named Bentley, one of whom was betrothed
to the curate of the parish. The coachman had cast
covetous eyes on a valuable silver tea service belonging to
the family, and formed apian to rob the house on a Sunday
morning when the inmates were at church, leaving only
a cook maid, and the curate's sister, a little girl named
Harriet Xicholas,^ aged five, at home. This child was
amusing herself with some cards, when hearing cries she
looked into the kitchen, and saw the coachman in the act
of murdering the cook. She then concealed herself in the
ash-hole of a furnace, and thus eluded the search made for
her by the murderer, who from the information she gave
was subsequently arrested and hanged at "Warwick.
On a slight eminence beyond this is Kineton House, the
residence of Lord Willoughby de Broke, and near it are the
kennels of the South Warwickshire Hunt. From hence the
roads lead to Radway (three miles), Tysoe (four miles and a
half), and Butler's Marston (three-quarters of a mile).
Taking the route on the extreme left, termed the Welsh
Road or King John's Lane, in one mile and a quarter from
Little Kineton, we reach a spot at which we shall find our-
selves abreast of two farm houses built in the last century,
lying on each side about a quarter of a mile distant from
the road. That on the right is termed Battle Farm,
and that on the left Thistle Fai-m ; these houses mark as
nearly as possible the position of the foremost line of
Lord Essex's Army at the Battle of Edge Hill. In the fields
round these farms, and especially in one on Battle Farm
called Lower Bladon, sloping towards Kineton, large
numbers of bullets have been discovered. A few yards
onwards on the left, we arrive at a larch coppice or spinney
termed the Little Grave Ground, in which 500 of the slain
were interred. In the centre of the field which succeeds
this coppice on the left of the road is a wych elm,'- which
marks the site of the Great Grave Ground, where some
800 of the dead were buried. " How that red rain hath
made the harvest grow," the grass here even at this distance
of time is of a deeper emerald green than in the surround-
1 She died in 1762, aged 23, and is buried at Radway. A painting of
her is preserved by F. Apfin, Esq., of Bodicote, near Banbury. 2 b on
plan.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 329
ing parts. On a spot marked by some newly-planted trees,
near the gateway leading to Eadway in this field, a fatal
accident occurred on the 9th April, 1892, to Captain William
George Middleton, who, unfortunately, fell and broke his
neck, while riding in the Midland Sportsman's Steeple-
chase. About 400 yards to the east of the wych elm in the
upper corner of a field on Eadway Grounds Farm adjoining
AVatts's Bushes are the stumps of an oak and a fir tree,^
Avhich mark the grave of Captain Kingsmill, whose
monument is in Eadway Church. In the field on the
right of the road about eighty yards from the hedge
is a small mound,- which marks another spot where a
few of the dead are interred.
Proceeding onwards, at two miles we reach a spot which
mai'ks the position of the foremost line of the Koyal Army,
and a quarter of a mile further, on the right, a road
branches off to Churcli Tysoe (two miles and three-quarters).
A little beyond this on the left before we reach the corner
of the road turning into Eadway, is a mound planted
with trees, on which King Charles took up his position
during the battle.
The church at Eadway was re-built in 1866 in a new
position, the site of the old church and graveyard being a
quarter of a mile south-west. The church consists of
■western tow^er with spire, chancel, nave and aisles, the
style of architecture being Early English. It contains
several relics removed from the old church. On the south
side of the interior of the tower, under a plain sepulchral
arch, is the mutilated effigy of Henry Kingsmill, the head-
piece, legs, feet, and left hand being gone. The figure is
attired in trunk hose, a buff coat of leather crossed by a
scarf from the right shoulder to the left thigh, and a loose
falling cravat. With the exception of the trunk hose,
which was a fashion of the time of James I., the costume is
of the year 1670, when the effigy was executed, and not of
the period when the unfortunate officer was killed. On the
east side of the effigy is an upright black marble slab
bearing the following inscription beneath a coat of arms : —
"Here lyeth expecting ye second comeing of Ovr blessed
Lord & Saviovr Henry Kingsmill Esq. second sonn to
Sr Henry Kingsmill of Sidmonton in ye covnty of Sovthton
Knt whoe serving as a Captain of foot vnder his Matie
Charles the first of Blessed memory was at the Battell of
Eflgehill in ye yeare of ovr Lord 1642 as he was manfully
1 A oil plau. 2 c on plan.
330 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
fighting in behalf of his King & Covntry vnhappily slaine
by a Cannon Bvllett, in memory of whom his Mother the
Lady Bridgett Kingsmill did in ye forty sixth yeare of her
Widdowhood in y^ yeare of ovr Lord 1670 erect this
Monyment."' " I have fovght a good fight 1 have finished my
covrse henceforth is layde vp for me a Crowue of
righteoTsness." On the north side of the chancel under a
depressed arch is the mutilated effigy of an ecclesiastic.
In the adjoining window are some fragments of old stained
glass, containing small illustrations of the " Temptation "and
" The Good Samaritan." On the opposite side is a projecting
piscina with a trefoiled head.
Near the church, with a pretty piece of ornamental
water in front of it, is Radway Grange, a stone building
erected in the last century in the Tudor style on
the site of an older structure. In the Drawing Room
to the right of the Hall, Fielding, the novelist, is said
to have read " Tom Jones " in manuscript to the Earl of
Chatham, Sir George Lyttelton and Sanderson Miller, the
owner of the house. ^"ear the Grange is a clump of trees,
planted by the great Earl of Chatham. On the slope of the
hill above the Grange is an Obelisk, erected in 1854, to com-
memorate the gallant conduct of Lieutenant-Colonel F. S.
Miller, of the Fifth Inniskilling Dragoons at the Battle of
Waterloo.
The Battle of Edge Hill was the inevitable result
of the dissensions between King Charles I. and his
Parliament. Their relations had gradually reached such a
critical stage that it became evident to each that the fear-
ful policy of a resort to arms would have to decide the
questions at issue between them, and early in the summer
of 1642, both sides therefore began to make preparations for
the coming conflict. The King after raising his Standard
at Nottingham on the 22nd of August, 1642, proceeded in
the middle of September to Shrewsbury, and the Earl of
Essex at the head of the Parliamentary Army took posses-
sion of Worcester. On the 12th of October, the King with
his army set off with the determination of marching upon
London. Two days afterwards. Lord Essex with his troops
started off to endeavour to intercept the Eoyal Army. On
the 18th of October, the King was at Packington Hall, the
seat of Sir Clement Fisher, on the 19th and 20th at Kenil-
worth, on the 21st he spent the night at Southam, and on
the 22nd he was the guest of Mr. Toliy Chauncy, at Edge-
cote House, near Cropredy, Prince Eupert being at the
same time at AA'ormleighton House, and the Royal Army,
BATTLEFIELD OF EDGE HILL
Shakespeare's land. 331
which numbered some 14,000 foot and 4,000 horse and
dragoons, was quartered about Edgecote ^ and Cropredy.^
The Parliamentary Army made up of ten regiments of foot,
forty-two troops of regular horse, and about 700 dragoons,
in all between 12,000 and 13,000 men had meantime reached
Kineton, where Lord Essex intended to rest on the follow-
ing day, which was Sunday, in order to give time for the
residue of his army to come up. This consisted of two
regiments of foot, and eleven troops of horse, with seven
pieces of artillery. From pickets which he had stationed on
the Burton Dassett Hills, Prince Rupert obtained intelligence
of the enemy, which he conveyed to the King, and after a
hasty council of war, it was resolved to bar the progress of
the Parliamentarians and give them battle. Very early on
the morning of Sunday, the 28rd of October, equivalent to
the 2nd of November new style, the Eoyai Army therefore
marched by way of MoUington and Warmingtcn, and took
up a position on the hills extending from Knowle End to
Edge Hill House, the King's Standard being displayed on
the spot now occupied by the Round Tower. The Earl
of Essex thereupon formed his forces in front of the
town of Kineton in three lines drawn up in three brigades.
"The right wing was composed of three regiments of horse,
under the orders of Sir John Meldrum, Sir Philip Stapleton,
and Sir William Balfore, with Colonel Richard Fielding's
regiment, and some guns ^ in reserve, and supported by
musketeers lining a long hedge, at the right angle Avith
their front. Next to these were the Lord Roberts's and Sir
William Constable's Infantry. In the centre were the Lord-
General's own regiment, and Colonel Ballard's and Lord
Brook's, with Holles's, also infantry, in reserve. The left
wing consisted of five regiments of infantry ; Lord
Wharton's, Lord Mandeville's, Colonel Cholmley's, and
Colonel Charles Essex's, with Sir William Fairfax's in
reserve. On the extreme flank were a few guns with
twenty-four troops of horse, commanded by Sir .James
1 Seven miles and a half and ^ five miles respectively from Warmington
Church.
3 Two cannon balls of 231bs. each jjreserved at Thistle Farm seem to have
been fired from some foreign ordnance, as they do not fit any known form
of English cannon of the period. A T61b. shot kept at the Leycester
Hospital, at Warwick, appears to have been fired from a " demi-oannon."
These field pieces were in all likelihood employed by the Royalists as the
official list of ordnance available for issne from the Tower, compiled by
order of Essex, the Parliamentarian general, does not enunierate any piece
of ordnance greater than l'21b. For an account of the guns used by the
Parliamentarian Army see the description of Edge Hill House.
332 shakespeabe's land.
Kamsay, a Scot.^ A detachment of guns was also posted
on the right among the enclosures on a rising ground to the
westward of the town. Oliver Cromwell, who was as yet
unknown to fame, was in command of a troop in Lord
Essex's Eegiment. " Ministers of the word were seen riding
along the ranks as they formed, exhorting the men to do
their duty, and fight valiantly.'' - Charles reconnoitered the
opposing forces with a telescope from Knowle End, the spot
on which he stood being raised into the shape of a crown,
and planted with a clump of trees in the last century.
Encouraged by the superior numbers of the Royal Army, he
then, upon the advice of Prince Rupert, determined to push
forward and meet the enemy half way. At about two
o'clock in the afternoon they advanced. 'J he order in
which they descended from the hill was this: — Prince
Rupert at the head of the Prince of Wales's Regiment, led
the cavalry of the right wing, and Lord Byron the reserve,
on the extreme right of which Colonel "W ashington's
Dragoons, supported by BOO regular horse, took possession
of some bushes and enclcsurts. On his left were eight
regiments of infantry. The infantry of the centre, in
column of six lines, was led by General Ruthven and Sir
Jacob Astley ; Lord Lindsey, with his son. Lord Willoughby.
at the head of the Royal Foot Guards, the red coats; and
Sir Edmund Verney carrying the Standard, which had been
displayed all the morning from the hill. Behind these, and
a little to the right, the King took post with his Guard of
Pensioners. The cavalry of the left wing was commanded
by Lord Wilmot, and consisted of the regiments of Lord
Goring and Lord Feilding.^ These were supported by Lord
Carnarvon at the head of 600 pikemen and a small body of
musketeers. The reserve was commanded by Lord Digby ;
and Sir George Lisle's and Colonel Ennis's Dragoons lined
the hedges and broken ground in advance of the extreme
left, as Washington's had done on the right. In the rear of
these were the ill-armed and almost undisciplined levies
from Wales.*
The land between Radway and Kineton was at this time
all open common, the present farms with their hedges did
not exist, and the trees which now cover the slopes of the
1 Nugent's Memorials, ix. 2 Nugent. 3 There is a mistake
in the plan of the battle in the characterization of the Fieldings
on each side as "father" and "son," the relations-hip of the officers
of those names being involved in donbt. * Nugent.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 333
Edge Hills were not planted till about the middle of the
last century.
The King was clad in steel, wearing his Star and George
on a black velvet mantle over his armour, and a steel cap
covered with velvet on his head. He rode along the lines
and spoke twice at the head of his troops, having previously
addressed his officers in his tent. Sir Jacob Astley's prayer
immediately before the advance was short and fervent : —
" Oh Lord, thou knowest how busy I must be this day. If
I forget thee, do not thou forget me. March on, boys! "
"The action was commenced by the Parliament's guns,
which opened from their right flank, and were instantly
answered by the whole park of the King's artillery from
the centre ;"the cannonade continued briskly for some time.
The first charge was made by the King's cavalry from his left,
which was repulsed; the musketeers who supported them
being also driven back to take refuge behind the second
line of pikes." Some hard fighting appears, however, to
have taken place on Battle Farm before the Royalists
were driven back. Sir Faithful Fortescue, an Irishman,
who commanded a squadron of the Parliament horse, then
ordered his men to fire their pistols into the ground and
galloped with them into Prince Eupert's lines, where, being
in the first instance mistaken for enemies, they were fired
upon and 25 of them killed.
Taking advantage of the confusion caused by this
desertion and favoured by the slope of the ground and
direction of the wind, Prince Eupert then charged with the
whole of thecavalry of the right wing, and broke through and
routed Eamsay's horse, who fled, together with the troops of
Colonel Charles Essex, Cholmley, Mandeville, Wharton, and
all except eighty of Sir William Fairfax's.^ The pursuit
I isted up to the streets of Kineton where Eupert's soldiers
stopped for an hour to pillage the baggage of the
Parliament.
The officers and gentlemen of the fugitive cavalry formed
up and strengthened the Parliamentary centre, which,
headed by Lord Essex's Lifeguards and supported by the
cavalry on the right, then furiously attacked and worsted
1 This may partly have arisen from laxity ^t{ discipline, as it is related
that when a Scotch sergeant of a Foot Regiment indicated a position to be
taken up by a private with, " Bj my faul mon stand thou there," the man,
disliking the position, retorted, "By my smuI mon stand you there yourself,
for I won't." Being taken into custody and ordered for instant punishment,
his comrades, with whom he was a favourite, exclaimed that they would
sooner die than that Red Cap (a name by which he was known) should be
punished, and he was accordingly reinstated in the ranks.
S3i SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
the King's Guards, taking prisoner Colonel Vavasonr, the
commander, and capturing the Eoyal Standard carried by
Sir Edmund Verney, who was slain. The Royalist right
wing was also attacked and discomfited by the infantry of
the Parliamentarian left, and the King's left was so hardly
pressed that Charles was compelled to retreat to the hill
and was importuned by his followers to leave the field.
Meantime John Hampden, who had left Stratford-on-
Avon the evening before with his own regiment and those
of Colonel Grantham, Colonel Barkham, and Lord Rochford,
together with five guns reached Kineton and immediately
opened fire upon Rupert's forces, killing several of his men
and horses, obliging him to reform his troops at a spot
still known as Prince Rupert's headland, about half a mile
from Kineton on the road to Chadshunt, and then to retreat
to the Royal lines. Here he found the King's troops
crippled and forced backward, the Parliamentarians having
won the hill side previously occupied by the right wing.
By this time nightfall had arrived, the Parliamentary
Army, partly from want of ammunition and partly from
fatigue, were not in a condition to make a further charge,
and the Royal Army was not in a state to continue the fight.
The battle lasted a little over two hours, having begun
shortly before three o'clock and ended about five.
The net result of the engagement was that the
Parliamentarians remained masters of the field, and the
Royal Army kept the London Road, which was the object of
the battle. The Royal Standard was delivered by Lord
Essex to his own secretary, Chambers, who rode by his
side. "Elated by the prize, the secretary rode about, more
proudly than wisely, waving it round his head. Where-
iipon, in the confusion, one of the King's officers. Captain
Smith, of the Lord John Stewart's troop, seeing the
Standard captured, threw round him the orange scarf of a
fallen Parliamentarian, and riding in among the lines of
his enemies, told the secretary that " it were a shame that
so honourable a trophy of war should be borne by a pen-
man." ^ To which suggestion the credulous secretary of
this honourable trophy consenting, surrendered it to the
disguised cavalier, who galloped back with it amain, and,
before evening received knighthood under its shadow.
Some accounts say that he had to fight his way back.
The King during the battle took up a position on a
mound now marked by a clump of trees near the road from
1 Nugent.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 335
Radway to Kinetou, a little distance north-west of the site
of the old church. The Prince of Wales and the Duke of
York, then twelve and ten years old, were on the hill at
Knowle End during the fight. " They were placed under
the care of Dr. William Harvey, afterwards so famous for
his discoveries concerning the circulation of the blood, and
then Physician in Ordinary to the King. During the
action, forgetful both of his position and of his charge, and
too sensible of the Aalue of time to a philosophic mind to
be cognisant of bodily danger, he took out a book, and sat
him down on the grass to read, till warned by the sound
of the bullets that grazed and whistled round him, he rose
and withdrew the Princes to a securer distance." It is
said that in a fit of loyalty the butchers of Coventry, armed
with their cleavers were proceeding to the King's Army,
but hearing on the road that the battle was decided, they
returned home again.
The Earl of Lindsey, commander of the Royal Army, was
mortally wounded, and together with his son Lord
Willoughby taken prisoner. The Earl was first carried to
Edge Hill House, and then conveyed in a coach to Warwick
Castle, expiring on the Tuesday morning just as he reached
the Castle.
The news that a battle had been fought was flashed to
the Parliament that night by signal from the Beacon on
the hill at Burton Bassett. Dugdale relates that Oliver
Cromwell looked on at the battle from the church tower
of this place, and descended from it by one of the bell ropes
when he saw the rout of the left wing of the Parlia-
mentarians, but it is very certain that there is no truth in
the statement, and that Cromwell was fighting at the head
of his troop in the Lord General's regiment at the time.
The declivity at the foot of Knowle End acquired the
name of Bullet Hill from the heavy fire directed upon it by
the Parliamentarians towards the close of the fight. The
battle appears to have raged all along the line from thence
to a point in the valley below the present figure of the Red
Horse, where a skeleton was found a few years ago with the
point of a sword sticking in the breast bone. The hamlet
of Westcote seems to have been destroyed in the course of
the engagement, as cannon balls and extensive traces of
foundations called " the Old Town " have been found on the
site.
The night was bitterly cold and frosty, and no doubt
many of the wounded died from exposure. One man in
search of water, it is said, with the butt end of hfj musket
336 ^ shakespeaee's land.
broke the ice in a horse clinker and found it tinged with
blood. The dead were principally interred in pits dug on
the held of battle, in front of the existing farms of Battle
and Thistle. Various estimates of the number of slain have
been made by different writers, Clarendon placing the
number as high as 5,000, but according to the Rev. Mr.
Fisher, the Vicar of Kineton, who superintended the
burials, the total was 1,300 and odd. This, of course, refers
only to those who were interred in the grave pits, and some
scores at least must have been buried in other places.^
The King is said to have passed the night in the King's
Leys Barn, the track which his carriage followed in going
there being still called King Charles's Road. On the
following morning (Monday) he breakfasted in a cottage
which formerly stood below the Round Tower, and
which was pulled down a few years ago. During the
day both armies remained for several hours in the
order of battle, and then about sunset Essex, being
deficient in supplies, retreated on Warwick and the King
moved southwards, but in such dilatory fashion that Essex
soon after, by advancing on Northampton, distracted his
attention and then marched to London and foiled Charles's
design to attack it.
Anecdotes of the battle are still preserved in the neigh-
bourhood. The fight commenced just as the various
villagers had assembled for afternoon service, and the evil
influences of the hour seem to have goaded the tongue of
the parish clerk of Tysoe into profanity, as when he heard
the sound of the first cannon he turned to the minister and
exclaimed " Ad dam 'em they're at it," and rushed out of
church followed by the congregation and their pastor. At
Lower Pillerton the village shoemaker ran off as he said to
see fair play, and receiving a sabre cut in front, the
•wretched man returned home holding his entrails— or as
the tradition transmits it, his puddings— in his hands.
Captain Kingsmill, an officer in the Royal Army rendered
conspicuous by riding a white charger, was seen on the
side of the hill when a Parliamentary gunner said to his
companion " Now for have at the man on the white horse,"
and firing immediately mortally wounded him in the thigh.
The unfortunate officer was afterwards buried on a spot ^
not far from Thistle Farm House. A monument to him
exists in Radway church.
1 There are entries of burials in the Registers of Waimington (11),
Cropredy (2), Eydon (1), Kewbold Pacey (1). The Regittjrs of Ratley
begin later. 2 ^ on plan.
EOUTE 32. — WAKMINGTOX TO THE EOLLEICH
STONES, Via EDGE HILL, UPTON, TYSOE,
COMPTON WYXYATES, BRAILES, CHERINGTON,
AND LONG COMPTON.
iMiEEDiATELT after leaving Warmington by Camp Lane,
some fine open views of the country are obtained on both
sides of the way until we reach the woods which now
clothe the slope of the Edge Hills, when Arlescote House
at the foot of the declivity becomes visible through the
foliage. At one mile and a quarter on the left hand side
of the road is the site of Nadbury Camp, an ancient
British entrenchment of which only the entrance remains.
It had an outer and inner vallum, and was of a triangular
shape, with the apex towards the north-west. The area
of the interior being eighteen acres. Many skeletons have
been found here, and a brass sword and battle-axe. At
Znowle End (one mile and three-quarters to the right), is a
clump of trees called King's Crown, where the young Princes
sat with Harvey, their physician, during the battle : here
the road to Kineton descends, and from hence a footpath
affording charming views extends along the brow of the
hill for two miles and half. At two miles a road branches
off on the left to Eatley (half mile) which contains a hand-
some church, principally in the Decorated style. It consists
of western tower, nave, south aisle, lady chapel and north
porch. The pillars which carry the arches between the nave
and the aisle are lofty and elegant, and are without
capitals, a singular and rare occurrence. The lady chapel
at the east end of the aisle, which opens to the chancel and
to the aisle by two symmetrical arches, contains an
unfinished piscina. The chancel also contains a piscina,
•curiously placed in the side of a window. The font has a
plain octagonal basin. There is a handsome east' iriiidvw of
four lights in the Early Perpendicular style, and three good
Decorated windows, each of two lights, on the north side
of the nave. On the west wall are eight plain memorial
brasses, dating from 1520 to 1726. In the churchyard is a
preaching cross with an octagonal base standing on three
338 shakespeaee's land.
steps, it is sunnounted by a crucifix with a figure of the
Saviour, the upper part of it is, however, gone, and part of
the left side.
Keturning to the Kineton Road at two miles and a half, we
reach the Eound Tower ou Edge Hill, a cockneyfied stone
structure built about 1750 with sham ruins in the rear, a
memeuto of the taste of an age which delighted in ginger-
bread art. This tower marks the spot on which the King's
Standard was displayed before his troops descended the
hill to engage in the Battle of Edge Hill, and is now used
as an inn.^ From the top a glorious panorama unfolds
itself, extending on the north side into the counties of
Gloucester, Brecknock, Hereford, Worcester, Stafford, Salop,
Chester, Leicester, Nottingham, and Northampton, and on
the south side into Buckingham and Oxford. Eadway
church and Grange lie at the foot of the slope beneath the
Trindows, a winding footpath leading down to them.
About ten fields off over the group of cottages to the left of
the church, Battle Farm may be distinguished, and the roof
and ricks of Thistle Farm may be discerned further on, a
little to the right of the spire ; Kineton itself being notice-
able a little to the left of it at a further distance. A writer
of the seventeenth century, alluding to this part of the
county, says " The Meddowing Pastures therein, with their
green Mantle, are so Embroadred with Flowers, that from
Edgehill we may see it as the Garden of God." Turning to
the south side the view is comparatively restricted and
artistically is utterly ruined by the sham ruins immediately
beneath.
From hence, following the Banbury' Road, at three miles
and three-quarters we reach Upton House, a large mansion
delightfully situated, the property of the Earl of Jersey and
the residence of W. M. P. Je)iki7is, Esq. The basement of
the house towards the garden appears to be of the 15th
century, and the upper part of the end of the 17th or
beginning of the 18th century, one of the lead pipes at the
back bearing the date 1693. The grounds, Avhich are
prettily laid out, slope down to a hollow containing six old
stew ponds, two of them very large and of massive
construction. The property anciently belonged to a family
named De Upton, and in the reign of Henry YI. was
purchased by William Danvers, whose descendants held it
for more than 200 years, the last of them being killed at the
1 The base of the archway ou the roadside opposite to the tower
is 700ft. above the sea level, and rather more than 3liOft. higher than the
base of Radway Chuich.
shakespeaee's land. 339
siege of Xamur in 1695. It then passed through several
hands until in 1757 it was purchased by Francis Child,
the great banker of Temple Bar. His son Robert inherited
it, and used it as a hunting seat, and at his death made a
will by which it passed to its present possessor under the
following romantic circumstances: — Mr. Child had an only
daughter, Sarah Anne, with whom John, tenth Earl of
Westmorland, fell in love with reciprocal results on
the part of the lady. Knowing or fearing that the
father would not consent to their union, he sought
to ascertain by stratagem what course he should
pursue. He therefore took the opportunity of one day
asking Mr. Child what he himself would have done if he
had fallen in love with a girl whose father would not
consent to her marriage. "Why! run away with her to
be sure," was the prompt reply of Jlr. Child, little thinking
at the time that it was his daughter the querist was in love
with. Either that same night or a few nights after. Lord
Westmorland eloped with Miss Sarah Child in a postchaise
and four from Berkeley Square House. The duenna who
slept in the outer room of Miss Child's apartments, was
drugged by her maid, and the young lady's flight was only
discovered through the " Charley " (or night watchman) find-
ing the front door open and raising an alarm. Mr. Child at
once took a postchaise and pursued the runaways. Whether
Mr. Child had better horses or whether he had more relays
than the pursued, is not known ; but he approached so
nearly to them in Cumberland, that Lord Westmorland was
compelled to stand up in his carriage and shoot the leading
horse in Mr. Child's chaise, which caused the vehicle
to capsize. This bold proceeding gave Lord Westmorland
time to get over the border where the blacksmith was in
readiness, and the pair were married at Gretna Green on the
-20th May, 1782, before Mr. Child could interfere with the
ceremony. During the short interval between the runaway
marriage and his death, Mr. Child never forgave Lord and
Lady Westmorland. He died July 28th, 1782, and by his
will he left the whole of his immense fortune to the first
daughter of the union — Lady Sarah Sophia Fane, who
married, on the 23rd of May, 1804, George Villiers, Earl of
Jersey." '
There are several pictures of horses at Upton House,
amongst them being one of a favourite of Mr. Child's.
Proceeding westwards at four miles and a half, we reach
1 Ye Marygold.
oiO shakespeaee's laxd.
Edge Hill House (Mrs. Godson), beautifully situated on the
brow of the hill ^ and commanding an unrivalled view, the
Wrekin, sixty-five miles distant, being plainly visible from
the dining room windo"s\-s on a clear day, and the prospect
westwards being even more extensive than that from the
Round Tower. The rear of the house appears to have
been built at the commencement of the 17th century, as the
Elizabethan doorway of the brew-house bears the date 1613
roughly carved in the left spandril of the arch. The front
part was re-built in 1807. The house, which has been in
the possession of the family for some three hundred years,
was formerly a noted coacliing inn, but since the year 1865
has become a private residence ; it figures with a little
artistic license in the picture by Charles Landseer, R.A.,
of " Charles the First on the eve of the Battle of
Edge Hill, giving directions to Prince Rupert and the Earl
of Lindsey for the disposition of the troops, under the tree
called the King's Oak, at the farm house where the Royal
family partook of refreshment served by the farnrer and
his daughters, anno 1642." Here the Earl of Lindsey was
brought when mortally wounded, and it is most probable
that James I. rested here on his way from "Warwick to
Wroxton, August 23rd, 1619, and that Charles I. paused
here while aw-aiting his meeting with Henrietta Maria in
the vale below in 1643. The house is rich in relics of
the Edge Hill fight, amongst them being Lord
Lindsey's sword, bearing his escutcheon, "a fisse chicque
of two argent and azure " ; four other swords, and a
fragment of a blade found sticking into the breast-
bone of a skeleton, which was discovered when some
drains were being laid just below the house ; an oval
silver sleeve link engraved with " God saA'e the King ";
army ration weights of half a pound and one pound, of
dumpy conical form, with a bell-metal steel yard, and a
set of cannon balls varying in weight from five ounces to
eight pounds nine ounces, and in gauge from one and three-
eighths of an inch to four inches, which are of the
highest possible interest, as they conclusively establish the
character of the ordnance used by the Parliamentarian
Army at the battle, and show that it was divided into three
categories. The first comprised the " Base" the " Falconet,"
and the " Rjbinet" which were hand guns with wooden
stocks, and swivelled on a tripod stand, firing balls up to
1 The horse stands 699ft. above the sea level; 200ft. above the foot
of the hill, and 300ft. above the base of the guide post at the comer of the
road leading to Tjsue.
PANORAMA OF EDGE HILL FROM THE SUNRISING-
•
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 341
one pound in weight. The second comprised the " Falcon,''
the " ^Ifmt'/??," ^ the " Saker" and the long and short
" Demi Culverin,'' which were field guns of hoth iron and
brass, mounted on travelling carriages of three wheels (two
in front) and tiring halls from two pounds to five pounds
in weight. The third comprised the " Culverin'' ^ and the
" Bdsiliske " or " Scorpion,'' which were heavy guns of
bronze or iron only, mounted on heavy wooden carriages with
timbers complete, and drawn by ten to sixteen farm horses.
Among the other relics are a considerable quantity of slugs
and bullets up to one ounce in weight, which were fired
from " hand guns," aid a beautiful piece of tapestry work^
said to be a portion of the hangings of the bed on whicli
Lord Lindsey lay when wounded. In front of the house is
a handsome sycamore tree, and the footpath from hence to
Knowle End along the brow of the hill reveals a series of
delightful views. In the orchard and spinney running almost
parallel with the present main road are traces of an old
packhorse road excavated askew in the side of the hill to
make the ascent on an easier gradient, and probably used
in the conveyance of salt from Droitwich to London.*
About 200 yards along the brow of the slope a track leads
to a thick wood on Bush Hill, in which, close to the gate is
a rude figure of a horse about ten yards long, cut in the
turf, and termed from its colour " the Eed Horse." This
effigy- apparently represents an older one of the same
character and larger size, said to have been executed to com-
memorate the Battle of Towton in 1461, which has long
been destroyed, and which anciently existed on a spot still
called " Eed Horse Ground," in the hill side opposite the
east window of Tysoe Church.
Descending the hill we reach in half a mile a road
on the left leading to Tysoe. Here on the 15th July,
1643, about four o'clock in the afternoon, Charles I. met
Queen Henrietta Maria, who came from Stratford-on-Avon,
1 The "Minion" or " Myidon "was a brass gun, and the "Sater"or
"Sacre" was of iron, but there was a variety of brass gun benriiig the
same name, and "'the Iron 3 por" would appear to have been tho
distinsiuiehing official term in use amongst the then " Officers of
Thordnances."
2 The " Culverin" and " Basiliske" belonged to the largest class of ginia
then in the service, measuring lift, and weighing from 24 to 30cwt.
I am indebted to Major Munlnuh, R.A.ofthe Recoid Office, Woolwich
Dockyaid, for valuable aid in the identification of the guns.
3 Two fields about one mile and a half distant by tlie side of the
Stratfcrd-on-Avon Road bear the name of " Salt Street,'' and about seven
miUs south-east on the south side of Crouch Hill, a "green lane" runs
between North Xewii.gton and Bodicot called the " Saltway."
342 Shakespeare's land.
escorted by Prince Eupert, bringing with her a large body
of horse and foot with 150 waggons and a train of artillery.
The Eoyal pair then proceeded to Wroxton Abbey, and a very
rare silver medal was struck at Oxford in honour of the
occasion.^
Hence we proceed through Lower or Temple Tysoe ^ (one
mile), to Middle or Church Tysoe (one mile and a half), in
which stands the church, which probably dates from Saxon
times. It consists of a lofty embattled western tower with
pinnacles, nave with aisles, chancel and south porch. The
two lower stages of the tower are of the 13th century.
The highest part of it with its windows, battlements, and
pinnacles is Decorated of the end of the 14th century. At
about the level of the floor of the existing belfry, a row of
corbels will be observed, which carried a parapet to the
13th century tower. The clerestory with the pierced
parapet round the nave is also of the Decorated period, and
xery handsome. It has four pinnacles with crocketted
finials, and the cornice is elaborately carved with grotesque
heads, flowers, &c. The hell cot oi the sanctus bell is a
modern renovation probably executed in 1715, when a new
bell was placed there which was subsequently cracked.
The south jwrch has a very handsome Norman recessed arch
with lozenge and nail head mouldings ; above it is a stone
panel with the Lamli supporting the Banner of the Cross, the
cognizance of the Knights Templars. The south wall of the
nave is the earliest part of the building, and in ancient
times formed the outer wall. Between the second and
third bays may be observed two of the original windows
which were without glass, and were mere slits for the
purpose of admitting air and light. The arches of the
1 On the obverse of this medal are Charles I. and his Qween, crowned,
seated upon chairs, their right hands united ; they are represented trpmp-
ling on a dragon (representative of the rebellious Parhament), with this
sentence — Certius : Pythoneni : iuncti (united they ai'e more certain to
8lay the Python, i.e., the rebellion). On the reverse is this inscription :—
" XIII. IVL. CAROL . ET . MARIE . M.B.F. ET. H. R. R. IN. VALLB .
KEINTON. AVSPICAT. OCCVRVNT. ET . FVGATO. IN. OCCIDENT.
REBELLIVM. VICT. ET . PAC . OMEN. OXON. MDCXLIII." (ISth
July, Charles and Maria, King and Queen of Great Britain, France, and
Ireland, meet in the Vale of Kineton at an auspicious moment. The
rebellion being scattered in the west ; an omen of victory and peace,
Oxford, 1643.)
O, that men's ears should be to counsel deaf,
But not to flattery !
2 This name is derived from the fact that the Knights Templars, of
Bal&all, held lands here. Tysoe is divided into three sections respectively
named Upper, Middle or Church, and Lower or Temple.
Shakespeare's land. 343.
windows are painted in an Oriental pattern, which was-
probably introduced by the Knights Templars on their
return from the crusades. After a time these windows
were closed in (their existence being unknown until the
restoration of the church in 1858), the Norman arches
below were constructed and the south aisle added. The
arches of the north aisle are Early English with octagonal
piers, but only one of the windows, that at the west end is
the same style, the others being Decorated, which shows
that the aisle must have been added about 1307, when the
Early English was merging into Decorated. The chancel
arch, which is of Caen stone is also Early English. The
clerestory with its beautiful windows is Decorated. The
chancel is in the Perpendicular style, the windows are all
good, those at the sides are of three lights, and the east
window is of five lights, filled with stained glass by Lavers
and Westlake, representing episodes in the " Life of the
Saviour." Three of the side windows are ornamented with
stars, an attribute of the Virgin, the church being dedicated
to the Assumption of tlie Virgin. On the north side is the
organ chamber. The staircase by which the rood screen
was reached still remains perfect, with the jambs of the
old doorway in the wall. The font, which is octagonal, is
extremely handsome, and of the Decorated period. Each
side contains a figure under a crocketted pedimentai
canopy in the following order from the edge facing
the chancel:—!, "St. Mary Magdalene with the pot of
ointment"; 2, "St. Michael with the balance"; 3, "The
Virgin crowned, with the infant Jesus in her arms"; 4,
" St. John the Baptist baptising Christ (the device of the
water is quaint) ; 6, " St. Catherine with the wheel and
sword " ; 6, " St. Peter with the keys " ; 7, The figure is
defaced, but probably intended for " St. James the Less " or
" St. Jude," with a club or halberd ; 8, " St. Paul with the
sword." Under a fine ogee-shaped arch in the rcallofthe
north aisle are the remains of a mutilated efiigy supposed
to be that of a founder, probably the benefactor who built
the Decorated portions of the church. On the north side
of the chancel is an interesting recumbent eiBgy of the
reign of James L, giving an accurate idea of the costume
which Shakespeare would have worn. It represents
William Clarke with moustache and spade beard, lie wears
a ruff round the neck, a doublet buttoned in front, and
belted round the waist, trunk hose, stockings and shoes.
The inscription runs thus : — " Hie iacet Gvlielmvs Clarke
Generosus quondam patrouvs hvivs ecclesia qvi mortem
Si4 Shakespeare's land.
ol)iit decern septem die Septembris anno Domini 1618." In
the floor of the north aisle is an incised brass containing
the figure of an ecclesiastic in his robes, with the shaven
tonsure, elevating the paten in his hands. Underneath is
the following inscription: — "Hie jacet Dominus Thomas
Mastropp qui mortem obiit xxix Xovembris anno
AICCCCLXV.'' In the same aisle is another brass with the
upper part of the figure of a woman in an Elizabethan
dress, with her hands clasped, and a Latin inscription
recording the burial of " Nicholas Browne and of Jane his
wife, the eldest daughter of Eobert Gibbs of Honningham
esquire, and of Margery Pridiox his first wife, which Jane
died the 11th day of August 1598." Xear this is a third
brass with this inscription underneath a coat-of-arms : —
*' Here lyeth the body of Tamizane Browne, second wife of
Jficholas Browne, who deceased ye 5th day of May, 1611."
On the wall at the end of the south aisle is a tablet with a
curious inscription to the memory of Ralph "Wilcox (died
1651 \ At the west end of the church are some of the
oldest style of open plain seats which return with elbows.
In the north aisle are some seats of the style of the reign of
James II. In the churchyard is an old preaching cross
with two steps at the base ; the head is not original, and
probably replaces a crucifix. To the right of the south-
west path is a headstone to William Kinman (died 1799)
with the following inscription: —
This world's a citv full of crookeil streets,
Death is the market place where all men meet,
If life were merchandize that men could buy,
The rich would alwajs live, the poor must die.^
From hence we proceed through Upper Tysoe (half a mile)»
to Compton Wynyates (two miles and three-quarters),
exquisitely situated in a richly wooded dell, which renders
it invisible until closely approached. The house is a most
picturesque combination of turrets, gables and chimneys,
the specially noticeable features of the front being the porch,
the half-timbered gables on each side of it, and the
picturesque turrets which occupy a great part of the inter-
vening spaces. The surface is chequered with a uniform
reticulation of grey "' headers" and the whole building, with
the exception of the gables, is battlemented and dotted with
zigzag and cable twisted chimneys of the quaintest and most
artistic tj-pes. The house which was built about 1510 was
formerly surrounded by a moat, portions of which still
1 An epitaph in Tery similar terms to the memory of John Geddes
exists in the churchyard of Elgin Cathedral, with the date li3S7.
shakespeaee's laxd. 345
remain to the north of it, enclosing an area now devoted to a
flower garden, but formerly, no doubt, covered with build-
ings of which connecting traces may still be discovered on
the existing walls. It is built round a quadrangle 57ft.
square, the external sides being slightly irregular,
measuring on the north 140ft., south 146ft., east 15.5ft., and
west 152ft. Over the arch of the entrance porch, are the arms
of Henry VIII. supported by a griffin and a greyhound, and
surmounted bv a crown on which is inscribed DOM . E£X .
HE5EICTS . OCTAV , The hollow moulding of the drip-
stone is carved with figures of lizards, animals, and roses.
On each side is the Tudor double rose, York and Lancaster
iinder a crown. The spandril on the left is filled with a device
of Katharine of Aragon, formed of the Castle of Castile, the
pomegranate of Granada, and the sheaf of arrows, the
cognizance of her mother Isabella ; that on the right contains
the portcullis, a badge of Henry Vlil. The window above
the porch has an ornamental cornice, and over it is a sun-
dial. The sUls of the windows in the gables are richly-
carved, that of the gable on the right forms what is termed
the officers' quarters. The stones inserted in the wall on
each side of the porch, seem to indicate the former position
of the chains of the drawbridge. Inside the arch on each
side are stone benches followed by doors which gave access
to the moat when the drawbridge was raised. The old
double oak doors contain a wicket, and outside show marks
of bombardment from calivers and matchlocks ; inside, the
doors are strongly panelled and the bolt of the iron bar is
secured by a lock. The curious old lock itself is in the hall
as weU as the iron work of the spy window in the door.
On the right are two niches, on the left is the doorway of
the porter's lodge, and a blocked up niche through which
the porter probably carried on his communications. Inside
the lodge is a blocked up spy hole, through which anciently
the porter could reconnoitre anyone who approached, and
a staircase gave him access to the turret for a similar
purpose.
On entering the Inner Court the eye is attracted on the
right by a grand bay window of eight lights, mullioned and
transomed, with carved panels and battlements overhead.
To the left of the door, between two windows, is a lions
head carved in stone, with a festooned border. This head
it is said, ran with wine on festive occasions, a stone basin
now lying detached being formerly fixed below it. Clematis,
ivy, rose and pyracanthus, charmingly emulate one
another in clambering up the walls, while old fuchsia tree*
546 shakespeaee's land.
along the paths serve to attract the bees, whose drowsy hum
is a feature of the place. In the south wall of the quad-
rangle is a door leading into the Chapel, and over the roof,
which contains five dormer windows, the window of the
Priest's room is A'isible in the gable, between the chimney
stacks. The brick chimneys are turned and moulded in the
most elaborate and picturesque forms, some being twisted,
some zigzagged, others spiral and part fluted. The spout
heads of the leaden drains on each side, are marked I J^
1732, the initials of James, fifth Earl.
Passing through the door, we come on the left to the
Buttery, divided from the hall by an oak screen,
<;ar\-ed in the linen-fold pattern; from this a passage
twelve feet long, leads to the Kitchens, which
contain capacious recessed fireplaces of the Tudor
period. The Hall itself extends to the full height of
the house, and has a fine open timber roof, springing from a
richly carved oak cornice. The roof has obviously been
brought from some older building, and has been cut do'mi
to fit its present situation ; it must originally have extended
one bay further, which would place the louvre, now
disproportionately near the south end, in its proper position.
Moreover, the wall pieces which ought to descend between
the windows, do not occupy their ordinary positions, they
are cut off in irregular lengths and do not rest on corbels,
the consequence of which, unfortunately, is that the wall
and bay window are being thrust out of the perpendicular.
The crest granted to Sir William Compton by Henry Till.
appears over the window, both inside and outside. The
screen has been partly restored. The carving of the span-
drils over the door is old, but the doors and other parts are
modern. The upright panels are of the carved linen-fold
pattern, and the horizontal panels contain a representation
of knights tilting, in the centre of which appear the Compton
arms, with the augmentation of the lion of England,
granted to Sir William Compton by Henry VIII. Above is
the picturesque, half timbered minstrels' gallery, with open
panels in the lower stage. The gallery in the south east
angle is a modern excrescence. An enormous slab of elm,
23ft. 3in. long, by 30in. wide, which rests on trestles, was
probably used for playing " Shovel board," a very
popular game in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.
In the window seat is a curious old metal chest, with a
marvellously intricate lock, which was found about the
year 1851 embedded in the wall of the corridor, over
the porter's lodge.
GROUND PLAN OF
COMPTON WYNYATES
A CHAPEL F LARDER
B PARLOUR G SCULLERY
C STAIRCASE H PORTERS LODGE
D HALL J PORCH
E KITCHEN K CELLAR
SCALL or TLtr
TfTffS
I
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. Sit
Adjoining the hall is the Private Dining Boom or Parlour
panelled with oak, and possessing a plaster ceiling
ornamented with the arms of Compton and Spencer, erected
in the reign of Elizabeth, by William, first Earl. The
chimney piece is of dark marble suiTounded by a moulding
carved in hard fir wood, and from this circumstance, and
the use of the nut and sheaf moulding, seems to have been
executed by Thomas Chippendale a well-known carver of
George II's reign. From hence we pass into the Morning
Boom, or Library, the panels of which are painted, and then
come to the foot of the Great Staircase, which occupies its
old place, but is a modern reproduction of the year 1867,
the ceiling being cast from one in Canonbury House,
Islington.^ Beyond is the Music or Smoking Boom, which is
probably a modern addition of the year 1738, as it will be
noticed that one of the windows of the party wall of the
hall, has been blocked up to allow of its being formed. The
moulding of the chimney piece of this room, appears also to
be the work of Chippendale. Ascending the Great Staircase,
we pass the entrances to the room over the Music Room and
the Minstrels' Gallery, and then arrive at the room termed
King Charles's Boom, in which he slept when a guest here,
and which is situated on the north side facing the moat. A
spiral staircase issues from it, by which either the moat, or
the upper part of the house could be reached, and it contains
an old oak bed and chests. Outside is a necessarium worked
on the dry earth principle, the pit for the purpose being
discovered some years ago. From hence we pass on to the
Drawing Boom, facing the south side, a fine apartment
panelled with oak, and possessing a good plaster ceiling
with the Compton and Spencer arms, put up by William,
first Earl, temp. Elizabeth, and recently restored. The
handsome carving and panelling over the mantlepiece, were
brought from Canonburj' House, but the upper part
containing the Douglas crest, consisting of a wild boar
between two clefts of an oak tree, held together by a chain
and lock, with the motto "Lock Sicker" (Hold Fast), i&
modern. This crest was assumed in 1831 by Charles, third
Marquess, in right of his mother. A door in the panel work
opens into the Gallery of the Chapel. Next is the Chapel
Drawing Boom, panelled with oak and having a moulded
ceiling. On the south side are hinged panels, and a door
opening into the upper part of the chapel, and thus enabling
1 Canonbury House was the Manor House of Islington. Sir John Spencer
father of Elizabeth, \nte of William, first Earl, bought it in 1570, and
re-built it. .
348 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
those in the room to hear the service. From hence we pass
into the Bedchamber of Henry VIII. when a visitor here.
The window is of four lights and contains some old painted
glass. In one of the lights is the Tudor rose intact, and in
others portions of the ( 'astle of Castile and of the arms of
Katharine of Arragon have been preserved. The ceiling
which has been restored, was probably originally erected
by Spencer, second Earl, in the reign of Charles I.; it
contains the arms of royal guests of tlie house, comprising
Henry VIII. , Elizabeth, James I. and Charles I., interspersed
with the Tudor rose, the thistle, and the rose and thistle
combined. Next but one to this room, is a chamber which
communicates with a secret hiding place above, by a stair-
case of eleven steps only 19in. wide. This staircase has a
slot for observation lOin. high and Sin. wide, which was
formerly concealed by panelling. The chamber itself is 7ft.
square, witli windows on both sides, and contains a
fireplace. The multiplicity of windows and walls in the
house, would render it diflBcult for an enemy to discover
such a place without the most minute and laborious
observations and computations.
Recesses in the walls are ol)servable throughout the house,
and especially in this part of it. In former times these
recesses were doubtless receptacles for family valuables at
troublous periods, and were concealed by oak wainscotting,
the panelling of which opened secretly into them. In the
turret at the southwest angle is another secret chamber,
said by tradition to have been discovered by the hollow
sound given out when Lady Frances Compton, playing about
in her childhood circa 1770, accidentally fell against the
plaster work by which the doorway was blocked. The
room is fabulously said to have contained the skeletons of a
woman, supposed to be a nurse, and two children who were
immured there.
AVe next ascend by a circular stair to the Council Chamber
in the Great Tower, interesting for its splendid oak panelling
of split oak, which serves to show the beautiful graining of
the wood, in a manner which is impossible with sawn
timber. The jambs and heads of the doorways are carved,
the carving being continued round the wainscoting. A
closet adjoining has a well hole, which probably formed the
entrance to a secret passage communicating with a trap
door in the north wing. From the Council Chamber three
newel staircases communicate with the Priest's Boom, or
Chapel in the roof, and it is probable that in times past
there was a fourth staircase. There were many recusants
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 349
in this neighbourhood,^ and this room was the safest spot
in which they could worship. Underneath the south-west
window is the most curious feature in the phice, in the
shape of an elm shelf 4ft. long, by 17in. wide, on which the
live consecration crosses are rudely cut, to denote that it
had been appropriated to the purpose of an altar, accord-
ing to the rites of the Church of Rome, being the only
known instance of a wooden altar in this country. The
room contains a beautiful carved door of Italian
renaissance design, and a cupboard behind the chimney
appears to have been a priest's hole or hiding place. From
hence there is a charming view looking over the roof into
the court, and beyo-nd to the windmill at Tysoe.
Next we come to the soldier s quarters termed the Barracks,
occupying the space some 130ft. long over the drawing
room, and displaying the huge oak tie-beams and rafters
of which the framework of the roof is composed. The
solidity of these beams has served to preserve the house
from destruction, as in many places the marks of burning
left by the candles which the soldiers have carelessly stuck
against the wood are plainly apparent. This part was
formerly open, but is now divided into rooms. At the
eastern end of the Barracks is a room probably occupied by
the captain of the guard, from whence there is a charming
view up the hill. Here are the remains of a corbel table
which probably carried the base of the flagstaff. A newel
staircase ascended and descended from this room, the
descending portion is however now blocked up. The oak
window sill at the western end of the Barracks, which is
beautifully carved on its outer face, is upwards of 19in.
thick by 17in. deep. There is a secret staircase running
underneath the gutter in this part.
Descending to the quadrangle, we come on the soutli side
to the Chapel, which is divided into two parts by an oak
screen, having a gate in the centre. The upper portion of
this screen consists of open panel work, the lower portion
is solid oak. Over the screen are carvings in panels. On
the outer side, that on the left of the gate probably
represents the scourging previous to the crucifixion ; in that
on the right, the female figure on a pedestal probably
represents the Virgin Mary, the stag has reference to St.
Hubert. On the inner side on the left are the seven deadly
sins, each mounted on a horse with a little demon behind
1 In 1641, seventy five "Popish Recusants" resident in the parish of
Brailee were presented.
350 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
urging on the rider. A monk leads the train, and the Devil
stands ready to welcome them. The carving on the right
probably represents a set of Twelfth Night mummers in
State robes with swords in their left hands. The centre
panels on both sides are vacant. These carvings are older
than the house, and were probably brought from Fulbroke.
The great window, which faces south by west, is of five
lights with cinquefoil heads and divided by a
transom, the spandrils and sill being carved. It
formerly contained painted glass of rare workmanship,
representing the Passion of our Saviour, with kneeling
figures of Sir William Compton and his wife and three
children, and the family arms executed in 1530. This glass
was during the Civil War removed to Balliol College, Oxford,
where it now forms two windows, one on the north and the
other on the south side of the chapel, the arms being placed
in the Librarj'. On each side is a smaller window, and
niches which probably contained statues. It is difficult to
fix exactly the former position of the altar as regards the
great window, it being possible, as in certain other
exceptional cases, that the celebrant stood behind it, and
thus faced north by east with his back to the window.
At the south-west angle of the quadrangle is an apart-
ment with a low barred window and a doorway opening
into a small outer apartment, it bears popularly the
unauthorised title of " the prison." The channels in the
floor for draining the drippings of beer casks, and the
marks of shelves in the walls unmistakeably point to its
having been used as a beer and wine cellar. The fireplace
may have served to cook the rations of the garrison, as the
staircase outside leads up to the Barracks.
The house contains altogether eighty rooms, with seven-
teen distinct flights of stairs, and 275 glazed windows. In
the days of the window tax the number of the latter was
reduced to thirty.
In the grounds leading to the church is an old brick
Dovecote. A pitched stone path, portions of which are still
traceable, led from the house to the lower end of the pool
where the mill stood, and which is still termed the mill-
pool. An ice house now occupies the spot on which the
mill probably stood. The water from the moat descends
into two stew ponds, and then at an interval of 200 yards
enters the mill pool. The clay for the bricks with which
the house is bulk was probably derived from the
excavation of this pool, as the ledges on which the bricks
were dried are plainly visible a few yards to the west of it,
M.
shakespeake's laxd. 351
and by the side of it furnace holes for burning the bricks,
with traces of fires and bits of burnt brick similar to those
used in the construction of the house were some time ago
discovered when new drains were being made.
The Cliurcli, which replaces an older structure demolished
in 1646, Avas built by James, third Earl, a leaden spout on
the tower with the initials I N 1663, sliowing the date of its
completion. It is a small building consisting of an
embattled western tower, and a double nave, lighted on each
side by two windows. The roof is painted with a
representation of the constellations to symbolise Day and
Night, the sun showing a broad round face on the north,
while the moon peeps out with one eye on the south.
Between the windows of the north side is a mural tablet to
Sir William Comi^ton, third son of Spencer, second Earl,
Governor of Banbury Castle in 1645, Master General of the
Ordnance in 1660, who died October 18th, 1663, aged 38, and
is buried under a commemorative slab beneath. At the
east end are some broken monuments, which when the old
church was destroyed at the time of the Civil War were
thrown into the moat, and after the Restoration taken out
and placed in the church. The centre figure on the north
side is Sir William Compton, the builder of the house,
wearing the collar of " SS." with a Tudor rose, who died
May 31st, 1.528. The female figure at his feet is probably that
of his wife, Werburge, daughter and heir to Sir John
Brereton. The effigy in trunk hose, which forms the first of
the group, is that of Henry, first Baron Compton, and
grandson of Sir William. He was one of the Peers for the
trial of Mary Queen of Scots, and died December, 1589.
The two figures on the south side are his two wives, Frances,
second daughter of Francis, second Earl of Huntingdon,
and Anne,^ fifth daughter of Sir John Spencer, of Althorp.
Spencer, eighth Earl, who died April 7th, 1796, was the last
buried in this church, his wife and all subsequent members
of the family being interred at Castle Ashby. The
monogram of J. C, with a Baron's coronet on the door of
the family pew is probably that of James, Lord Compton,
eldest son of George, fourth Earl, and afterwards fifth Earl,
who was created a Baron during his father's lifetime. The
banners in the church, which are all fringed with the
family colours of black and white, are nearly all ancient
mortuary memorials, and with the hatchments (or more
1 The Charillis of " Colin Clout's come home again," by Spenser, to
■whom the poet also dedicated " Prosopopoia " or "Mother Hubberd'a
Tale."
352 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
properly achievements), which were a later fashion, form a
complete record of the Compton family. Under the sixth
banner from the west end, that of Peter, son of Sir AVilliam,
who died 1542, hangs a surcoat bearing the arms of
Compton, a helmet and other funeral achievements,
including a shield bearing a lion of England, surrounded
by the garter. At the west end of the churchyard is the
grave of Jane Story, a reputed witch, who died October
31st, 1755, aged 87.
Historic Notes.
The name of Wynyates is, according to tradition derived
from the fact that there was anciently a vineyard here.
Records show that the family of Compton were in possession
of this property in the reign of King John, and probably
owned it at the date of the Conquest. In the reign of
Edward III., John de Compton was a knight for the shire
in Parliament, but the family did not attain distinction
until the beginning of the 16th century, In 1494 William
Compton, who was then only eleven years of age, succeeded
his father Edmund. Being a minor he became a ward of
the Crown and was brought up with Henry VIII., with
whom he grew a great favourite and received several
important appointments at his hands. Fuller tells us " that
he was highly and deservedly a favourite to this King,
so that, in the court, no layman abating onely Charles
Brandon (in whom affection and affinity met), was
equall unto him." Henry granted him an augmentation
to his arms out of his own royal ensigns and devices,
and in the beginning of his reign bestowed upon
him the custody of the park at Fulbroke together with
the Castle built by John, Duke of Bedford, brother of
Henry V. which had become ruinous. About 1509 Sir
William determined to build a house at Compton Wynyates,
he therefore pulled down the Castle and used part of the
materials, consisting probably of the chimneys, some of the
stone work, and part of the wood work, in the construction
of his new mansion ; the chimneys it is said being conveyed
here in paniers on donkey back. Sir AVilliam had
subsequently the honour of entertaining the King here.
In August, 1613, he distinguished himself at the Battle of
Spurs or Guinegatte, where he was knighted for his gallant
behaviour; he was afterwards in the suite of Henry VIII.
at the Field of the Cloth of Gold, June 7th-24th, 1.520, and
died May 31st, 1528. Sir William's grandson, Henry, was
in May, 1572, created Baron Compton, of Compton, and was
honoured with a visit here from Queen Elizabeth on August
24th of the same year. He was, in 1586, one of the Peers
for the trial of Mary, Queen of Scots, and died December,
1589. He was succeeded by his son William, who, in 1599,
fell in love with Elizabeth Spencer, the only child of a
wealthy alderman of London, who was Lord Mayor in 1594
and who was proverbially known at the time as " Rich
Spencer." Sir John Spencer by no means relished the
advances of the young courtier, and positively refused his
consent to the marriage. On this Lord Compton bribed the
baker to let him take in the loaves one morning. No
sooner was the bread out of the basket than the lady took
its place, and Lord Compton boldly proceeded to carry his
precious burden downstairs ; on the way he was met by
Sir John, who fortunately not only did not recognize him
but gave him sixpence as an encouragement to him for
being so early at his work, and told him that was the way
to thrive. Lord Compton and the lady were duly married,
, a^d on discovering the facts the father was so angry that
he disinherited his daughter, the breach being only healed
by an artifice on the part of Queen Elizabeth, who invited
the alderman to stand sponsor with her for a child.
Flattered by the proffered honour he agreed, in addition, to
adopt the infant, who turned out to be his own grandson.
It is said that on the death of the Alderman in 1610 he left,
according to the lowest computation, £300,000, a prodigious
sum in those days. On September 6th, 1617, Lord Compton
had the honour of entertaining James I. here, and in 1618
he was created Earl of Northampton. He died in 1630 and
was succeeded by his son Spencer, who was a great
favourite with Charles I. who visited him here. He was
killed at the Battle of Hopton Heath, March 19th, 1643,
and left six sons. The youngest of these, Henry, was born
at Compton Wynyates in 1632, and first became a cornet
in the Royal Horse Guards ; he subsequently took Holy
Orders and was consecrated Bishop of Oxford in 1674
and translated to the See of London in 1675. He
educated the Princesses Mary and Anne and afterwards
performed the marriage ceremony to both of them.
In 1689 he crowned William III. and Mary, and
subsequently christened William, Duke of Gloucester (1689-
1700), son of the Princess, afterwards Queen Anne ; ending
a well spent and honoured life at Fulham in 1713.
On Sunday, June 9th, 1644, the house was captured after a
three days' siege by the Parliamentary forces under
Major Bridges, who found in it the Earl of Northampton's
brother, about fourteen officers, and 120 common soldiers,
N
354 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
with eighty good horses, and arms and ammunition, all of
which were sent to AVarwick. The captors also obtained a
considerable amount of plunder, and sheep and cattle, and
Dugdale says they killed the deer, and defaced the monu-
ments in the church. On the 29th January, 1645, the
Royalist forces from Banbury under Sir Charles and Sir
William Compton made a moonlight attack on the house,
but after gaining a footing in the stables they were repulsed
with severe loss. The Parliamentary troops continued
in possession until after the surrender of Banbury Castle,
quitting the mansion on the 16th June, 1646. James, third
Earl (1643-1681 ^) after paying a heavy composition was
allowed to enjoy his estates in peace. After the Eestoration
he probably made alterations and repairs to the house,
putting in several plain mullioned windows of dark
stone in place of the original windows of yellow
stone. George, fourth Earl (1681-1727^) made con-
siderable alterations in the drawing rooms, taking out the
windows with one mullion and a transom, and putting in
sashes in accordance with the fashion of the times. James,
fifth Earl (1727-1754 ^) probably added the morning room,
and made other alterations. Spencer, eighth Earl (1763-
1796^) in addition to succumbing to the fondness for
gaming then prevalent was foolish enough to take an active
part in a contested election at Northampton in 1768, over
which his opponent Lord Spencer spent nearly £130,000,
and left a legacy of debt on his estate. Lord Northampton,
besides cutting down all his old timber to the amount of
£50,000, sold most of his furniture from Castle Ashby, and
the whole of that from Compton Wynyates, and spent the
rest of his life in Switzerland. The house was subsequently
suffered to fall into a ruinous state, being only preserved
from destruction by the bailiff of the estate. Charles,
ninth Earl (1796-1828 ^) was created a Marquess in 1812, and
Charles, third Marquess (1851-1877 ^) replaced the Tudor
windows taken out by George fourth Earl, and undertook
other extensive repairs to the house, which he also
furnished.
Ascending the hill from Compton Wynyates, beautiful
glimpses of the house may be obtained through the rich
foliage which surrounds it. On the brow of the ascent
on the right is a solid stone pyramid 23ft. in height,
known as the "Compton Pike," placed there as a guide
1 These dates represent the periods during which each individual
held the title.
SHAKE.SPEARE'iS LAND. 355
to persons seeking the house which lies hidden from
observation. At a little more than a quarter of a mile
on the right a road leads to the village of Winderton
(one mile), which contains a handsome church with a
tower and spire in the Early English style, built in 1878, on
the south side of Winderton Hill. From hence there are
two roads to Brailes two miles distant, one leading south-
east and the other south-west. Taking the latter route,
the tower of Brailes Church becomes a prominent object
in the landscape for the whole distance, bearing the village
we pass on the right an entrenched detached mound of
British origin termed Castle Hill. The church of Brailes
frequently styled from its importance " the Cathedral of
the Feldon," is a very fine building, consisting of an
extremely grand tower, 25ft. square and 120ft. high, with
an embattled parapet and pinnacles, probably built in the
14th centurj' and remodelled in the 15th, a clerestoried
nave with north and south aisles, a chancel, south
porch and north vestry. The total length of the building
internally from east to west is 163ft., with an extreme
width of 52ft. The earliest features are four triplets of
lancets of the 13th century in the south wall of the south
aisle, they are surmounted by a cornice, curiously carved
with a quaint mixture of heads, animals and flowers, and
an effective parapet in the Decorated style, pierced with
wavy flowing tracerj-, originally sub-divided into six
sections by crocketted pinnacles and gargoyles, one of the
latter being now missing. Rearward above these again is
the fine clerestory of the nave, consisting of twelve square-
headed windows of two lights each. The chancel and
north aisle are of about the middle of the 14th centurj', the
windows being very varied and interesting. On the east
gable of the nave is a crocketted bell-cot containing a
sanctus bell.^ The north side of the church is destitute of
ornamentation ; the vestrj' on that side was probably erected
in 1649, when repairs and alterations of a debased character
were carried out. In the interior, the church opens to the
tower by a fine arch 30ft. in height, disclosing a large five-
light Perpendicular window. The east window, which is
in the Decorated style, consists of five lights, with elaborate
and graceful tracery in the heads, filled with stained glass
1 This bell used to be rung from the rood loft to impress reverential
regard at the more solemn parts of the service, such as the singing of the
Saivotia, at the conclusion of the ordinary of the mass, and also when the
priest uttered the words " Sancte, Sancte, Sancte, Deus Sabaoth," at the
eleTation of the Host.
356 SHAKESPEARE'S LAXD.
of good workmanship, representing " The Ascension," " The
Last Supp'-n-," and other scenes relating to Christ. The
sedilia is in three stages, opposite to it is an aumbry. The
old font of the 14th century is octagonal, each face being
richly carved with tracery of a different design. The tirst
floor of the tower contains an apartment with a fire-place
probably designed for a Reclusorium or hermitage. In front
of the altar are several slabs commemorating members of
the Bisshop family, former patrons of the living, who are
buried there. On the tomb of Barnaby Bishop, circ. 1600,
are the following curious lines to his sister, coming after a
Latin inscription: —
Heere lies his sister too one tonibe
Incloseth both a8 did the wombe
Thov deere and pretiovs Margai'et
Beyond all marble covld be sett
vpp for thee heere wilt bee thy own
Best monvment thy selfe alone.
At the west-end of the south aisle is a tomb bearing the
initials " R.D." on the slab. Over this, against the wall of
the tower is a mural monument with classical columns
surmounted by a curious arrangement of liooks with clasps
in coloured marble, and bearing the following peculiar
inscription :— " Heere lyes intrusted in a full assurance of a
Glorious Resurrection what is left of Richard Davis,
gentleman, some time M^- in arts in Exceter Colledg in
Oxford, who whilst he liv'd was the joy of his parents, the
Comforter of the Poore, the Counseller of the Rich, and
after he had endured 15 moneths paine and anguish with a
Job like patience most willingly exchang'd this life for a
better, the 19th day of January in the 36 yeare of his age
Anno Dni 1639." The church chest of the 15th century is
covered with panel work compartments. To the west of
the south porch is a monument with a recumbent effigy
apparently of the Decorated period, the feet resting on an
animal of some kind, it has been greatly injured by the
scraping of childrens' feet, and is not in its original
position, having been shifted several times.
A mile and a half hence is the village of Sutton, the
church of which, dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket, consists of
chancel and nave with a tower on the south-west side of
the nave. The entrance to the church, which is through
the south side of the tower, contains on the east side a
stone bench in a niche with a crocketted hood, the
doorway being well proportioned with peculiar mouldings.
The tower is square and massive, the lower part of the
14th century and the upper part late 15th century. The
SHAKESPEARE'S LAXD. 357
nave and chancel are late 13th century with geometrical
tracery in the windows, some of which are very peculiar
and interesting. The nave contains an upper tier of two-
light windows of late 14th centiu-y character. The walls
of the nave are 5ft. thick and the windows are splayed as
also are those of the chancel. The east window consists of a
triple lancet, cinquefoiled in the centre light and trefoiled
in the side lights, the muUions having the peculiarity of
being monoliths from sill to crown. On the north side
of the nave near the east end is a very curious recess,
apparently intended for a tomb ; in it is a window of three
lights with peculiar tracery of the loth century. At the
east end of the south wall of the nave is a piscina and in
the chancel is another of larger dimensions. The centre of
the chancel arch is to the south of the axis of the nave as
at Stratford and several other places.
A mile further is the villaae of Cherington, the church of
which consists of a chancel, nave, north aisle, south porch,
and an embattled western tower. The chancel and nave
are Early English, the clerestory of the latter having
square Perpendicular windows. The fjncer, which is of
the 14th century, is of pleasing proportions ; the walls of
the belfry slope slightly, a noteworthy local peculiarity.
The first window of the nave from the west end contains
in the centre light some fragments of line old painted glass
consisting principally of heads and hands put together by
Lavers, Westlake, and Co. The last window on the south
side of the chapel and the east window of the north aisle
have also some fine remains of ancient glass, the latter
principally removed from the east window together with a
head of the Saviour in tears from the top of a wooden
reredos which crumbled to pieces. The north aisle opens
to the nave by three arches supported by octagonal piers.
The last bay of the nave towards the chancel contains a
remarkable and very curious 14th century monument of a
franklin or squire, supposed to be William Lucy, Ijorn in
1277 and a knight of the shire for the county in five
successive Parliaments in the reign of Edward II., who
died towards the middle of the 14th century.^ The dress
consists of a long coat or tunic with close fitting sleeves
buttoned from the elbows to the wrists. Over this tunic is
a super tunic or surcoat with loose sleeves reaching to the
elbows and hanging down. The super tunic is girded by a
narrow belt buckled in front, and from this belt is
1 He was alive in 1337 and possibly in 1348.
358 Shakespeare's land.
suspended on the right side an anelace or hunting knife-
On the head and covering the shoulders and breast, is a
kind of tipjiet, combined with a hood called a caputium.
The feet rest on a lion and the head is supported by angels.
The efBgy rests under a low and obtusely pointed ogee-
shaped arch, the upper mouldings of which are crocketted
whilst the under part is cinquefoiled ; the mouldings of the
architrave are profusely decorated with the ball flower
ornament and other rich accessories. The sides of the
tomb are divided into sumptuous canopied recesses with
crocketted ogee heads. On the north side, one of these
recesses is occupied by a piscina, indicating the former
existences of an altar at the east end of the north aisle.
At a distance of one mile and a half south-east is the
village of Whichford, the church of which is principally in
the Early English style with a Perpendicular clerestory
and some traces of ISorman work. It consists of chancel
with chantry chapel, clerestoried nave, north aisle, and
embattled western tower. The walls of the belfry story of the
tower slope slightly as at Cherington. On the gable end of
the nave is a sanctus bell in a bell cot. At the south-west end
of the chancel is a low side window, either for lepers or for
"utter confession." The south dooricay is Norman with
billet and zigzag moulding. The chantry chapel was
probably founded by the Mohun family, who were lords of
the manor from the beginning of the 12th to the
end of the 14th century ; it is now converted into
an organ chamber. The mndoivs of this chapel
are all interesting, the eastern of three lights and
two on the west of two lights each. That at the east end
retains all the old stained glazing in the tracery, and is of
a very high degree of merit with figures and a most
exquisite grisaille background. The heads of the two west
windows also retain their ancient glazing of the same
character as the eastern window. Near the east end is a
piscina with a triangular head and trefoiled arch. Under a
sepulchral arch in the south wall is a stone coffin on the
cover of which, extending from head to foot, is a large
engrailed cross, the base of which terminates in three
steps forming a " Calvary Cross," an emblem of a crusader.
On the upper part oi this cross is an escutcheon bearing
another engrailed cross with a label of three points in
chief, the shield of the Mohun family ; it probably represents
John de Mohun, who died in 1279. The pulpit is entered
from this chapel by a square headed doorway in the wall,
wiiich in former times possibly led to the Rood loft. On
SHAKESPEARE'S LAND. 359
the south side of the altar is a piscina with a hood
moulding. Adjoining it is a high tomb with an incised
brass representing Nicholas Asheton, who became rector of
the church in 1557 and died September 30th, 1582. It
depicts him in his cassock, which is open in front with.
sleeves wide at the wrists displaj-ing his doublet. Over
his shoulders he wears a sarcenet tippet (the scarf of
modern days). At the corners are shields with armorial
bearings and the following inscription is in the centre of
the slab : — " Hie jacet Nicolaus Asheton sacrae theologies
bacchalareus Cantabr : cappellanus Comitis Darbie nuper
rector istius ecclesie : ac olim vicarius de Kendalle
Lancastrensis apud magna leaver : qui obiit ultimo die
mensis Septembris anno dhi millesimo quingentessimo
octogessimo secundo, Regni Elizabethae Reg : vicessimo
quarto." The north side of the tomb is divided into
three canopied recesses, ogee headed and crocketted.
Above the tomb is a tablet carved with handsome scroll
work, and bearing the following dedication : — "In
morte doctiss : viri Xich : Asheton olim hujus ecclesiae
rectoris epicedium," followed by thirty-two lines of
elegiacs in fearful Latin, matched with halting spelling.
On the north side is a high tomb covered with an alabaster
slab bearing an incised representation of John Mertun, who
became rector of the church in 1.507. Round the verge is the
following inscription : — " Hie jacet diis Joh(anne)s Mertu(n)
quondam rector isti(us) ecc(l)e(sie) nee non capella(n)us
Th6(m)e Stanlei comitXis) de Derbi q'(ui) obiit "
On the side of the tomb are two shields in sunk quatrefoils
with a fleur de lis between. The font is octagonal, devoid
of ornament, and stands on a shaft nearly as thick as itself
with horizontal flutings.
Returning to Cherington, and proceeding onwards, in
three-quarters of a mile we reach Weston Park, a well-
wooded domain in which stands Weston House, the seat of
Juliana, Countess of Camperdoicn. This property in 1533
passed into the hands of William Sheldon, of Beoly, in
Worcestershire, who in 1546 obtained a license to impark
300 acres of land, and built a house here. From 1647 to
1684 it was the home of Ralph Sheldon, known as " the
great '' Sheldon, who was a collector of books and curios,
and a patron of men of letters. He formed a large and
costly library of rare books and manuscripts, which
Anthony a Wood, author of the " Athense Oxoniensis " spent
much time in cataloguing and arranging. In 1818 the estate,
after having been reduced by previous sales, was sold to
yeO SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
Mr. afterwards Sir George Philips, of ^lanchester (1766-
1847), Avho ill 1832 pulled down the old house and erected
the present handsome mansion in the Elizabethan style,
from designs by Blore. The house contains a fine
collection of pictures distributed in the following order:—
DiNiXG Room.— Pictures : *"Seapiece," Gainsborouf/h : * " BoniievOle/'
Titrntr; * " Omar," ReynoUU ; " Pozzuoli," Stantield ; *" Linlithgow,"
Turner; * " Clovelly," Collins: "Landscape," Reynolds; " Laudscape/*
Ruysdael; " Heci:o," CaUeott ; * " Ass and Boar," Siiydas ; * " Cainigorum,"'
Lee; unfinished portrait of "Lady Camperdown, Lady Carew, and Lady
Caithness," daughtere of Sir G. R. Philips (1789-1883), the last work
otjoh, I Jackson, R A.; "Horse," J?. U. MOis ; "Rum iu a Wood,"
Wilson; " Horse shoeing," //t'lcr/i^/ "Sir George Philips," J. /ac^so/?,
R.A. ; "Admiral Duncan" first Viscount Duncan (1731-1804),
Sir William Btwlifi/, R.A. ; " Landscape," Van Estyn; " Ruined Tower,"
Barrett; " Deer Shooting," i^. C. Leicis.
Drawing Room. —Pictures : " Rembrandt and Servant" (copy by Lee):
"Sir Joshua Reynolds," by himself; "Adoration of the Shepherds,"
Tintoretto; "Milk Girl." Gainsboroue/h ; "Strawberry Girl,' after
Reynolds hy Lee ; " Shei)herd Boy," Reynolds; "Midas," Sicaneceldt ;
" China Menders," WiU'ic ; *" Rochester Bridge," C'nWcoK /*" Land-
scape," Nasiiiith; * " Mary Queen of Scots," Zucchero ; *" Nymphs
Bathing," Van Poelenlmrg ; "Ruins," Panini; " Recco," Callcott ;
" Aretino," Giorgione ; * " Head," Domenichino ; " Madonna," C. Maratti ;
" Diana, ' Weeiiix ; " Battlepiece," Baker ; " Vanity," Titian (copied by
Lee); "Landscape," J. Van Hmisum, ; "Landscape," Gaspar Poussin;
" Venus and Cupid," West; "Landscape," Wilson; "Cupid," Reynolds;
" Old v\ oman Eating Porridge," Ostade ; " Lady Sketching " (uufijiished),
Reynolds.
This room also contains a handsome circular table of
vralnut and buhl, a cabinet inlaid with ivory, and an
elegant Watteau cabinet.
Billiard Room. — Pictwes : "Landscape," Van Goyen ; *" Landscape,"
Lee (the figures by Landseer); "Landscape," Patel ; *" Venetian
Admiral and Page," Titian; "Landscape," Molinaer ; *" Landscape,"
Pai'.l Potter; "Landscape," Callcott; "St. Cecilia," Carlo Do lei ;
" Inverlochy Castle," Lee ; " Children at play on the Sea Shore," Collins ;
" Landscape," Stothard ; " Seapiece," Lee after Vande Velde ; "Landscape,"
L<f , Aiter Ruysd.ael ; "Seapiece," iTot'iiocci',- portrait of " David Hume"
(1711-1770).
The room also contains a handsome buhl cabinet, and two
ebony cabinets with black marble tops.
Library. — Pictures: * " Ratl'aelle e la Fomarina," Callcott; * " Two
Scenes in Venice," Count Roherti ; " Sir George Philips,"^'. U. Eddis.
Front Hall. — Pictures: " Three Graces and Cupid," Hilton; portrait
of " A Lady," Northcote; "Scene from the Induction of 'The Taming
of the Shrew,'" S'>iiir/;e, R.A. ; "Sports," Bassano ; " Seapieco,"^
Bubbels : " Seapiece," Hoet.
Upstairs. — Picture : " Landscape," Salvator Rosa.
From the top of the hill near Weston Park Farm (one mile
and three-quarters from Cherington), there is a lovely view,
the foreground being dotted with clumps of handsome
Shakespeare's land. 361
beeches, and other fine trees through which glimpses of the
house are from time to time obtainable.
On quitting the park a steep descent leads into the
village of Long Compton (two miles and three-quarters),
which lies in a hollow.^ The approach to the churchyard
lies through a brick gateway, forming a very interesting
lich-gate apparently of the 15th century. The upper part of
this structure, which was probably anciently the abode of
the sacristan, consists of a cottage of two rooms approached
by a narrow wooden staircase at the side. The Church
consists of a chancel, embattled nave, north aisle, south
vestry, south porch, and embattled west tower, which
have unluckily suffered from the process of restoration.
The two lower stages of the tower are Early English, and
the upper Perpendicular, the battlements being pierced
with ornamental loopholes, an exceptional feature. Two
gargoyles project from each of the north and south faces.
The chancel and ^.lace are of the 14th century, the latter having
a Perpendicular clerestory. On the east gable is a very
interesting bell cot for a sanctus bell. The snuth porch is
late Perpendicular, in it is a recumbent llgure in red siind-
stone, very much worn, which appears to represent a lady
of the 15th century with a mitred head dress ; it was found
buried in the churchyard. The doorway has a jilain Norman
arch. The walls of the nave are covered with scolloped
pargetting ; and the corbels which support the roof are well
carved. The oestry, of the loth century, on the south
side is entirely of stone, and was the most beautiful mediaeval
vestry in the Midlands until it was unhappily " restored "
and altered. On the south side of the altar is a piscina
with a ciuquefoiled head, and adjoining it an open sloue
sedilia of two seats with carved ends. The modern rfredos,
sculptured with emblems of the four Evangelists in the
style of the llth century is handsome, the hgjires are cut
out of blocks of alabaster found under the chaiieel in 1863.
The register contains the following curious entry:—" Ealphe
Sheldon of Beoly in Worcestershire Esq. departed this
mortall life in his house called Weston in tlie parish of
Long -Compton, on the 124 of June (midsomer day) an 1684,
aged 61 or thereabout, whereupon his heart & bowells were
buried in Long=Compton Chancell neare to those of his
Father, Mother, Grandfather, &c. on the day following &
his body by tliose of his ancestors in a vault situat & being
1 Weston P<aik Lodge is 525ft. abore the sea level, ai>d tlie ibase of
Long Compton Church 349ft
362 shakespeake's land.
under the Chappell of our Lady joyning to St. Leonard's
Church of Beoly before mentioned on the 10 July
following." ^
In connection with this church Dugdale relates a curious
legend, derived from John of Tynemouth,'^ which is a
remarkably good example of the wily methods by which
ecclesiastical intimidation was achieved in medieval times.
The narrative recounts how^ that in the year 604 the parish
priest repaired to St. Augustine, and complained to him.
that the Lord of the town, though admonished and
excommunicated, refused to pay his tithes. How that
Saint Augustine therefore proceeded to Long Compton, and
after arguing with the lord again excommunicated him
with these words : — " I command that no excommunicate
person be present at mass," and how that thereupon a dead
maij that lay bviried at the entrance to the church arose out
of his grave, and stood without the churchyard during the
service. At the conclusion of mass upon being questioned
by St. Augustine, the dead man said he was patron of the
place in the time of the Britons, and refusing to pay tithes
was excommunicated by the priest, and so died and was
thrust into hell. He then, by the direction of the Saint,
pointed out the grave of the priest who had excom-
municated him, whom the Saint immediately proceeded to
raise and to question. As a result he delivered a scourge to
the patron, and granting him the absolution which he
craved on his knees with tears in his eyes, he was
immediately resolved into dust. St. Augustine then
demanded how long the priest had been there. Above one
hundred and fifty years was the answer. The Saint then
asked whether he should pray to God that the priest should
return and by hispreachingreduce many souls unto Him now
deceived by the Devil, but the priest begged of him not to
disturb his quiet by bringing him back to the troublesome
life of the world, so the Saint dismissed him, and entering
his grave he fell into dust. St. Augustine then turned to
the knight and said, " Wilt thou now pay tithes to God my
son ? " and he, confessing his guilt, trembling and weeping
fell at his feet, and became a follower of the Saint all th©
days of his life.
1 Regarding this practice see page 227
2 John, Vicar of Tynemouth was a writer of the 14th century, circa 1S62.
He is the compiler of a work termed Historiu Aurea, chiefly relating to the
actions and miracles of the English Saints, which is still in manuscript,
and has never been published.
SHAKESPEARE'S LAXD. 363
Opposite the Vicarage is the truncated square base of an
old cross, which now forms the upper part of a fountain.
Richard Whittington, the famous Lord Mayor of London,
is said to have been born in this parish in WMttington
Cottage, near the Vicarage, but the evidence of his being
born at Pauutley in Gloucestershire seems of a stronger
character. Some old customs still remain in the parish.
The May Queen is chosen and crowned, and with her
maidens annually perambulates the parish on the 1st of
May. Carols are sung at Christmastide, and " fig pudding "
is eaten at mid Lent. Shakespeare's " leather coats " are still
grown in several orchards. Some old pagan superstitions
also still linger not only in this village, but in several
others of the Vale of the Red Horse. In September, 1875,
James Heywood, a man of this locality, fatally stabbed an
old woman, aged eighty, with a pitchfork, saying at the
time that he "would kill all the d witches in Long
Compxon, and that there were sixteen of them." In his
defence the man said " if you knows the number of people
who lie in our churchyard, who, if it had not been for them
(the witches) would have been alive now, you would be
surprised. Her (the deceased) was a proper witch." He
also stated that there were witches in the water
offered him in the police cell. It had for years
been this man's belief that horses and other animals
eiekening or dying, or evil fortune befalling any of his
neighbours was the result of the evil eye of some of the
•unfortunate old women whom he designated as " proper old
witches," and it appeared that this craze was more or less
believed in by at least one third of the inhabitants of the
village. His method of attacking the witch was evidently a
survival of the earliest and most famous style of supersti-
tious incantation of the Anglo-Saxons called " stacung " (or
sticking), which consisted in sticking spikes or thorns into
the detested person, with the expression of a wish that the
wounded part might mortify or wither away. A woman
who died at Tysoe in 1875 was reputed by her neighbours
to be a witch, so much so that one day some people came
over from Brailes, who, taking her unawares, scored her
hand with a corking pin, in order, as they said, to nullify the
effects of the evil eye she cast on thfm. Shakespeare
alludes to this practice in the first part of " King Henry
"VI," when he makes Talbot say tola Pucelle: —
Blood will I draw on thee, thou art a witch,
And straightwuj- give tliy soul to him tliou servest.
The degrading belief in witchcraft introduced into Western
364 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
Europe is probably of Clialda;an origin, in all likelihood im-
ported from Asia by the Gaels, who were the pioneers of the
Aryan races in this country. On their arrival here, these
people found the land in the possession of an Iberic race,
low in stature and dark in complexion, whose faith
comprehended the continued spiritual existence of their
dead in the tombs in which they were buried. The Gaels
imbibed these superstitions, and themselves being tall and
muscular, the spirit of mystical exaggeration soon led
them to an imaginary diminution of the stature of the
dead and buried Iberians, and thus grew up a set of
legendary stories regarding little sprites, mischievous
demons, or familiar spirits, who dwelt in subterraneous
habitations, and who curdled the milk, diied up
the teats of cows, led men astray at night, made
children sick, plagued the cattle with murrain, spoilt water
in the wells, and burnt up the corn in the tields. The
Celts were as a rule fearful of desecrating the tombs of
these little people, through dread of bringing on them the
wrath of the ghosts whose abodes they were, but in the case
of the sturdier Saxon, the stories of hidden treasures which
the spectres were frequently supposed to guard often
stimulated his cupidity to overcome his sujierstition, and
tempted him to rifle these ancient graves. Looking to
the surroundings of the matter, it seems likely
that the lingering existence in Long Compton and
the adjacent villages of superstitions regarding witchcraft
is largely owing to tlie neighbourhood of the RoUrich
stones and other sepulchral remains, through which
these supernatural traditions were originally mainly-
fostered.
On Bright Hill, one mile and three-quarters south of th&
church, or one mile south of the end of the village, and
about a quarter of a mile to the east of the road to Chipping
Norton are the famous RoUrich or Rollwright Stones. These
now consist of a circle on the right hand side of the road,
measuring from north to south 107ft.. and from east to west
104ft., comprising about fifty-eight stones of varying sizes,
the tallest being 7ft. 4in. high by 3ft. 2in. broad. Eighty-
three yards north-east is a single stone 8ft. 6in. high, and
5ft. 3in. broad, termed the King's stone. The circle-
evidently surrounded the base of a tumulus, which covered
the graves of some pre-historic Kings or chieftains,
the name being most probably a corruption of the
G&e\ic R'AUg-yia-riogh, or "the burial place of the kings." ^
1 The uii founded idea that these and similar stones were Druidica
SHAiiKSPiiAltJi't) J.AM>. 365
These ancient Pagans appear to have had a special fondness
for elevated positions as their last resting places, as is
apparent in a large number of cases. In the present
instance such a complete clearance has been made of the
contents of the graves that it is difRcult to attempt to fix
with any degree of precision the methods of sepulture
adopted, Avhicli were very various. The usual custom in
very early ages was to cremate the bodies and place the
bones in earthenware pots or vases ; sometimes the bodies
were buried in a standing position attired in full battle
costume, with their faces turned towards the territories of
their enemies, and sometimes the corpses were placed in
stone cists, or in chambers termed cromlechs and dolmens,
the graves being in nearly every case covered by a
mound of earth or a heap of stones. The rings, bracelets,
torques, and other ornaments and arms of the deceased
were frequently buried with them. The King Stone
probably marks the grave of some rival king or
other important chieftain. It corresponds in relative
bearing with the King Stone at Stanton Drew , Long Meg at
Salkeld, the Ring Stone at Avebury, and the i'riar's Heel at
Stonehenge, and is the prototype of the pillar which Jacob
set up on tlie grave of Eachel. These stones in Ireland are
called yullans, because it is said they were first erected by
the Gaels. Un the east side of the circle at a distance
of 390 yards are five large stones locally termed the
" Whispering Knights," and which have evidently formed
part of a dolmen or cromlech now ruined.' This no doubt
is the survivor of many other tombs of lesser importance
since several ancient writers speak of tumuli in the locality
which have long disappeared. The King Stone stands in
Warwickshire, and the rest are just within the boundaries of
Oxfordshire. The country people have a tradition regarding
the stones, which in a distorted form probably contains
some of the elements of the original legend, as it is by no
means unlikely that these burials were the result
of a great battle. According to this tradition, the
King Stone jiersonifies in a petrified form a King who
temples is now I believe generally exploded. The Druids v:orsMpped in
Ch'oves, and in Britain are only known to have existed in Anglesey, the
Roman name of which fjVoiittj appears to signify "a place full of brakes
or thickets," being evidently derived from the Gaelic 7i(Kin, a wood, mmne,
a bush, a bramble.
1 The spoliation of graves was an otfence very rife in Anglo-Saxon times,
and was frequently legislated against from the 7th century downwards.
By an edict passed in the reign of Henry I., a depredator of this class was
to be treated as a icaryus, i.e., an accursed man, an outcast.
366 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
would have been King of England if he could have
perceived Long Compton, which is only visible at six
yards from its base. The circle of stones represents
common soldiers, and the large stones in the adjoining
iield personate five knights attending upon the King, who
conspired against him, and are therefore termed " the
AVhispering Knights." ^ Lying as they do close to the high-
way from Stratford to London, Shakespeare probably often
gazed upon these weird old stones. The circle is now
enclosed by railings, and placed under the protection of the
Ancient Monuments Act, the key of the enclosure being
kept at the cottage on the road leading to it. From the
summit of the hill - there is a very fine view extending to
the Cotswold Hills.
1 The term " Whispering Knights " is probably a corruption of the name
of the chieftain who was buried in the ancient tomb to which the name
is applied. The first part of the name is in all likelihood a perversion
of " Iscur " OT"Cscur" (the bounding warrior), and the latter part
possibl}' embodies his ILiieage " Ua Seachtaiii " (descendant of Keachtain),
or some somewhat similar designation. This would accord with the earliest
known examples of Ogham inscriptions, of which the following at St.
Dogmael's is an instance; " Sagram ni maqi cuuatami " (Sagram, a
waiTior, the son of Cu-natami.)
2 The Rollrich stones are 734ft. above the sea level.
ROUTE 33.— FENXY COMPTON TO SULGRAYE YiA
WORMLEIGHTOX AND CULWORTH.
As the allusion to the Washingtons at "VYormleighton
conveys only a slight amount of information regarding
that interesting family, it has been deemed advisable to
give some account of the adjacent village of Sulgrave in
Northamptonshire, at which the parent stem resided.
Starting from Fenny Compton Station, at oue mile and a
half we pass the village of Wormleighton, and at two miles
and a quarter cross the Northamptonshire border. At two
miles and a half we skirt the foot of Boddington Hill, a
celebrated fox cover in the Bicester and Warden Hill Hunt,
and at four miles we reach Lower Boddington, containing
several stone-built houses, which have obviously been
occupied by a superior class of tenants in days gone by.
Thence at Aston Bridge (four miles and a half), we strike
the Welsh Lane, so called from the droves of cattle from
Wales which formerly passed along it. Passing over the
East and West Junction Railway, we ascend a hill close to
the village of Aston-le-walls (five miles), and then crossing
the Banbury and Daventry main road (five miles and a
half), gradually descend under Warden Hill on the left to
TraflPord Bridge (seven miles and a half). To the right of us
is Edgecote Park, at which Queen Elizabeth stayed in
August, 1572, and where Charles I. with his sons, Charles
and James, was the guest of Mr. Toby Chauncy the night
before the Battle of Edge Hill. The old manor house was
taken down about the middle of the last century and the
present building erected in 1752, the bed on which the
King is said to have slept being still preserved. Continuing
onwards we reach Cnlwortli (nine miles), which contains
several old liouses. On the right is the base of a fine old
cross, on the left is the church and a very fine elm. The
church, which stands in the upper part of the village, con-
sists of a low tower, naA^e with aisles, chancel and south
porch. The pillars and capitals of the nave and the doorway
and greater part of the south aisle are Early English ; the
lower part of the tower and north aisle are Decorated, and
the upper part of the tower and the clerestory are
Perpendicular. The chancel and porch were re-built in
o6f^ SHAKESPKARKS I,AXI>.
1840. Over the porch is a sundial of the year 1733. In the
south aisle is a sepulchral arch, which probably contained
the tomb of Robert de Coleworth, to the east of it is a
piscina and an aumbry. The old oak pewing of the
Perpendicular period is very good. The pulpit, which is
of the time of James I., is handsomely carved,
and the font bears the date of 1662. On Sunday,
Februarj' 2r>th, 1699. the church was crowded to
witness the penance of ^largaret Tyler for fornication. In
the time of Divine Service she stood before the Minister's
reading-desk apparelled in a white sheet fj-om head to foot,
and, in presence of the congregation, made her confession,
and then knelt down and said the Lord's Trayer. On
Sunday, April 6th, 1712. a similar scene occurred, when
John Bradley and Mary AVhite ])erformed public penance.
On June 27th, 1644, King Charles I. with an army of 5,500
foot and 4,000 horse entered Culworth, and slept at the
Manor House. Early next morning he proceeded towards
Banbury. A large stone near the old entrance hall is still
called "King Charles's Stone." Adjoining the north side
of the churchyard are the earthworks of the Castle, which
was probably built by one of the feudal lords in the reign
of King Stephen. Tliis place and tlie adjacent villages
was from 1770 to 1787 tlie headquarters of a gang
of housebreakers and highwaymen known as " the
Culworth gang " who were the terror of Xorthampton-
shire, Oxfordshire, and the neighbouring counties, and most
of whom were eventually hanged. During their career
manj' of these rascals were feasted by the neighbouring
farmers as a bribe to them not to meddle with their
property.^ In 914 a battle was fought between the Danes
and the Saxons at Danesmoor, now called Dunsmoor,
between Culworth and Edgcote. On the same spot, on the
25th July, 1469. there was a sanguinary engagement between
the partisans of King Pklward IV. and a body of insurgents,
in which the former were defeated, ar,d the Earl of
1 The Parish Register of Burials contains the following entries : —
'.'1757 Aug! 5th .John Smith senr Richard Law William Pettipher
Executed at Northamjiton for Highwaj- Robberies &<:.''
" 178S Augt 1th John Smith junr. executed at Warwick."
This was the sou of John Smith, Senr., who was executed in 1787. He
escaped conviction with his father, but subsequently committed a high-
way robbery near Gayilon Inn. for which he was hanged. A young woman
3iamed Klizabeth Beere. who resided at Claydon, aiid who was deeply
attached to him, attended his execution, a/ld had the body delivered to
lier. With a donkey and a pair of panniei's she then conveyed it to
Cf.lworth for burial, leaving Warwick at nightfall.
shakp:speaee's land. 369
Pembroke, with his two brothers and eight other gentlemen,
taken to Banbury and beheaded. At the sign post by
■Culworth House (nine miles and a half), we turn sharply to
the right, passing along the ridge of a valley to " The
Mag]^)ie " Inn, where the road from Banbury to Sulgrave falls
in. From the summit of the ridge a tine view is obtained of
the village on the slope below, and of the distant hills of
Biddlesdon, in Bucks. At eleven miles we reach Sulgrave
Cliurch, l)uilt priuL-ipally in the Decorated style of the 14th
century, which stands at the west end of the village, and
is approached on the north by a short flight of steps leading
to the churchyard. It consists of a chancel, nave, aisles,
north and south porches, and eml)attled western tower.
The tower is Early English, and in the west face has a
doorway with a triangular head. The north porch is of
Decorated character, and the south porch Elizabethan,
bearing the date 1564. The aisles open out of the nave by
four bays of the Decorated period. Towards the east end
of the wall of the south aisle is a piscina with a credence
table. Near this is a Hagioscope, enabling worshippers in
the south aisle to witness the elevation of the Host. The
tracery of the windows throughout the church is nearly
wholly the work of modern restoration, the first
window on the south of the chancel is of Perpendicular
type, and has beneath it a small window, closed by a
shutter of oak, either intended for the purpose of enabling
lepers to listen to the service, or for the rite of " utter
confession" practised by the fraternities of St.
Francis. Below this little window is a stone seat
and underneath the opposite window, which is of
Decorated type, is another stone slab. On each side of the
■chancel roof are boldly carved heads of Edward 111. and
Queen Philippa. On the south side of the altar by the
floor is a small square piscina with the drain leading
outwards. In the second bay of the south aisle is the old
fotit of octagonal form ornamented with floriations at the
angles, and in the basement of the tower is the ancient
■ church chest, banded with numerous iron straps.
The centre of the tower arch is to the south of
the axis of the nave as in several other churches.
Underneath the east window of the south aisle is
a brass bearing a shield with the Washington arms and
the following inscription :— " Here lyeth buried ye bodys
of Laurence Wasliington Gent & Ameehis wyf by whome
he had issue IIII sons & VII daughts wc Laurence dyed
ye day of Ano 15 & Amee deceased the VI day of October
370 SHAKESPEARE'S LAND.
ano dm. 1564. This tablet was erected by the representa-
tives of the family 1890." On the floor lielow is a slab on
the left of -which is the headless figure of Laurence-
Washington, and on the right is the matrix which formerly
contained the figure of his wife. Beneath is a brass plate
with the following inscription: — "Here lyeth buried
ye bodys of Laurence Wasshingto Gent & Amee his wyf by
whome he had issue iiij sons and yij daughts wc laurence
Dyed y^ day of Ano 15 & Amee Deceassed the vi day of
October an© dni 1564." Below this are spaces formerly
occupied by the groups of the sons and daughters. The
Daily Reporter, Northampton, August 24th, 1889, contains
an account of the mutilation of the Washington slab about
a fortnight before that date by two individuals dressed as
gentlemen, it also gives the following description of it in
its original state: — "Six different brass plates were let into
it. The first contained the Washington coat of arms
argent, two bars gules in chief, three mullets of the second,
On each side in brass were eifigies of Washington and his
wife, and below on a brass plate the inscription. Under
this were representations of the four sons and seven
daughters in two groups. The costume of Lawrence
Washington and his children was that of the ordinary
attire of civilians of the middle of the 16th century. The
father wears a close-fitting doublet, a large loose gown
with demi-canon sleeves purfled with fur, and large broad-
toed shoes. The boys wear large doublets, knee breeches,
long hose, and shoes like their father; and each has a
gipsire at his girdle. The brass representing Amy
Washington no longer remains Time has told
somewhat on this monument of Lawrence and Amy
AVashington ; and it is also to be regretted, the hand of the-
thief as well. The head of Lawrence Washington has been
knocked off ; the brass effigy of his wife has been stolen
and taken away bodily ; and the enamel with which the
coat of arms was coloured has crumbled nearly all away,
leaving scarce a trace behind. The two portions recently
taken away are those representing the " iiij sons and vij
daughters." On the arrest of the " Culworth Gang " in 1787,
the church chest, which then stood in the chancel,
was found to have been made a receptacle for stolen
goods placed there by William Abbot, the parish
clerk,^ a member of the band and a shoemaker by trade
1 The following entry occurs in the Chvirch Register:— "April the S2nd
17S7 John Willcox Labourer first officiated as parish clerk of Sulgrave on
shakespeark's land. 371
who when he had not time to prepare himself for church
after a night of marauding, is said to have been known to
officiate at morning service with his pistol under his cloak.
Close to the church is the " Castle mound," which is
said to mark the site of an ancient fortified mansion
attached to one of the manors.
At the eastern extremity of the village about a quarter of
a mile distant is the Manor House of the Washingtons,
which has degenerated into a common farm house. A field
■containing some old elms which may have formed part of
an avenue stands between the house and the road. The
existing house is a gabled building of two stories with
dormer windows. It is made up of two blocks joined to
each other and forming the letter L reversed. The top of
the " J " facing northward to the road, and a gabled porch
with a room over it extending southwards on the other
.side. This porch, which was formerly the main entrance,
has the Washington arms in the spandrils of the arch.
Over the dripstone of the door is a shield with the arms
•defaced. Above this again is a window with a sundial on
the right, surmounted by the Royal Arms with a lion and a
-griffin as supporters. Over this is some embossed plaster
work and " E.R." The original hall entered from the
south porch is now divided into a dairy and sitting room,
it contains a fireplace under a four centred arch. The
■" screens," or entrance passage, has been taken away, and the
whole part of the house to the west of the screens in which
were or were intended to be the kitchen and servants'
•offices is absent. The original back door has been removed
and a doorway in the style of about 170U substituted a
little more to the east. The wing stretching north at right
angles to the hall is probably not original as it is not in the
proper position with regard to the hall, being too much to
the west, and it has no ancient features in it. It is
now divided on the ground floor into a staircase, sitting-
room, and kitchen. It seems probable that the house was
never completed according to the original design, which
was on a large scale. The structure however as it stands
is a good sample of the durable work of the builders of the
16th and 17th centuries. The purlins, rafters, and couple
'the DismiBsion of WiUiam Abbot, by appointment of the Reverend
Richard Wykham Vicar of Sulgrave. Julv 1787 William Abbot Parish
Clerk was condemned at Northampton Assize to lose his life for Highrpay
Robbery, but was afterwards reprieved for Traijsportation for life. For
the good and future safety of this Parish minuted down by Rd. Wykham
Vicar of Sulgrave June 15th, 1788."
372 SHAKESPJiAIiE'S LAXD.
beams are of good old oak. The flooring, panelling, and'
cupboards are of the same material, and there is not a
vestige of wall paper to hide the walls. The roof is covered
with "Stonestiekl slates," which according to local axiom
are calculated to last for ever and a day. The estate was
acquired by Laurence Washington in 1538-9, soon after
which he probably commenced the erection of the house,
and it was sold in 1610 by Eobert, his son and heir, acting
in conjunction with his son Laurence.
In the windows of Fawsley Church, eight miles and a
half north, are six shields connected with the Wasbingtons,
and in the possession of Lady Hanmer, at Weston House,
three miles north-east are two similar compositions
which are known to have come from the Manor House at
Sulgrave, and these make it almost certain that those at
Fawsley came from tlie same place.
The following is the descent of George Washington from
this family, commencing with John Washington, of
Whitfield, in tlie county of Lancaster.
Eldest son, John Washington, of Warton.
Eldest son, Laurence Washington, Mayor of Northampton
in 1532 and 1545, grantee of Sulgrave 1538-9,
died 19th February, 1585, married Amee (or
Amy), daugliter of Eobert Pargiter, of Gret-
worth, Avho died 7th October, 1564.
Eldest son, Eoliert Washington, of Sulgrave, married
Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Eobert Light,
of Eadway. (This Eobert Washington, con-
jointly with his son Laurence, sold Sulgrave in
1610).'
Eldest son, Laurence Washington, of Sulgrave and
Brington (died 13th December, 1616), who had
five sons, the eldest of whom was Sir William
AVashington, of Packington, co. Leicester, buried
at St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, London, 22nd
June, 1643.
Fourth son, Lawrence Washington, born circ. 1602, M.A.,.
Fellow of Brasenose College, Oxford, and
Eector of Burleigh, Essex 1633-1643, died before-
1654-5, married Amphillis (daughter of —
Eoades ?)
Eldest son, John Washington, born in England circ. 1633-34,.
emigrated to Virginia with his brother Lawrence.
Second son, Lawrence Washington, died 1697.
Second son, Augustine Washington, died 1743.
Eldest son, George AVashington, born 1732, died 1799.
SHAKESPEAEES LAXl). 373
Sulgrave may also be reached from Banbury. Starting
from the Great Western Station, the road at two
miles and a half on the right skii'ts the village of
Middleton Cheney, containing a handsome church partly
of the Decorated and partly of the Perpendicular
periods.^ At three miles on the left it passes
Chalcomb Hill, and. at four miles on the right goes past
Arbury, an oblong fortified hill, probably of British origin.
At five miles on the left it approaches the village of Thorpe
Mandeville, and at " The Magpie Inn" (live miles and three-
quarters) joins the road from i enny C'ompton, reaching
Sulgrave Church at six miles and a quarter. Another route
is from Moreton Pinkney Station on the East and AVest
Junction Railway, from which Silurave is two miles and a
half distant, but the trains are inaequent.
My task is done. I have invt stigated the structure of
many an old building, and scanned the pages of many an
ancient record with awakened feelings of interest and
pleasure in the novel attractions I constantly experienced.
If my efforts to portray the most noteworthy objects find
sufficient favour to induce others to follow the paths into
which I would lead them, I shall retain the pleasurable
feeling that I am still travelling in spirit amidst the scenes
which have yielded me so large a measure of enjoyment.
Farewell ! a word that must be, and hath been —
A sound which makes us linger ; — yet, farewell !
1 The aisles and chancel are Decorated, temp. Edward III. The tower,,
spire (150ft. high), and clerestory are Peii)endicular, of the time of
Henry VI. The south porch is a unique construction entirely of ashlar
stone.
'^''^'
ADDENDUM.
Footnote to e&gy of Nicholas Lane at Alveston
(page 70).
" 1587. In the early part of this year John Shakespeare was tormented
by an action that had been brought against him in the Court of Record by
Ii'icholas Laae, who averred that, in a conference they had held in the
previous June, the former had made himself responsible for ;£10 in the
■event, subsequently realised, of his brother Henry not paying that sum on
Michaelmas day, 1586, part of a debt of £22 "that was owing to Lane.
Judgment was no doubt given in favour of the plaintiff, the suit having been
removed by certiorari at the instance of the defendant. — (Halliwell
■FkiUipps.)
CORRIGENDA.
'Page 8 line 18 for 1856
,, 23
13 „ at that time
» 25
27 „ part
„ 27
19 „ Charles Graham
„ 60
13 „ Norman
,,214
13 after Sonnes
„ 234
23 for won
„ 243
41 „ or
„ 285
45 „ widows
„ 293
30 „ modem
.„ 305
31 „ fortified and
strengthened
„ 316
3 after wood
„ 321
21 for aged 10
» 331
2 „ was quartered
.„ 332
2* „ Fieldings
-„ 348
6 „ Arragon
* Footnote.
read 1857
,, formerly
„ parts
„ James Graham
„ Early English
insert &
read worn
„ of Sir Thomas
Leigh
„ windows
„ wooden
„ fortified or
insert comma
read aged 11
„ being quartered
„ Feildings
„ Aragon
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TABLE OF DISTA.VCES BY EOAD FROM THE
PARISH CHURCH AT LEAMINGTON.
{Especially Revised.^
Ashorne
Ashow
Alveston, by Barford and Cliarlecote ...
Baddesley School
Baginton Park ...
Balsail Common
Baisall Temple ...
Barford, by AYarwick Bridge and Asps
Barford, through Warwick
Bascote, through Radford and Ufton ...
Beausale House, by Warwick and Stank Hill
Bedlam's End, Tom O'Bedlam
Berkswell Church
Birdingbury, by Weston and Marton Guide Post
Bishop's Itchington Church, by Harbury
Blakedown Mill
Bourton Church, by Princethorpe
Brandon Church
Bubbenhall
Budbrook Church, by Hampton
Charlecote Church, by Warwick, out of Stratford
Road
Chesford Bridge, on Kenilworth Road
Chesterton Church, by Ufton and Harbury
Claverdon, by Warwick
Combe Abbey, by Bubbenhall, &c.
Compton Wynyates
Coventry Cross, by Kenilworth
„ „ by Stoneleigh
Cubbington Cross Roads ...
Eathorp
Edge Hill Tower
Emscote Bridge
Frankton Cliurch, by Princethorpe
Gaydon Inn, through Tachbrook
George-in -the-Tree
Gibbet Hill, by Chesford and Stoneleigh
5
3
12
9
8
9
12
4
6
6
7
10
11
10
10
9
5
5
14
19
9
9
3
6
l.j
1
9
8
10
7
392 SHAKESPEAEES LAND.
TABLE OF DISTANCES.- Continued.
Grove Park
Guy's Cliff Mill, gate leading to
Hampton Lucy, turning out of Stratford Eoad
Hampton-on-the-Hill, by AVarwick ...
Harbury Church
Har-v\-o6d's House, through Tachbrook
Haseley Church
Hatton Vicarage
Honiley Boot ...
Hunuingham Church, through Offchurch
Itchiugton Long, by Offchurch, to Chui'ch
., Bishop's, by Ufton and Harbury
Kenilworth Castle, by School House ...
Kineton, i-id Warwick and Wellesbourne
„ iw Gaydon Inn ...
Kingswood Bridge
Ladbroke Church
Lighthorne Church, through Tachbrook
Lillington Church
Marton
Mih-erton Old Church
Mji: on House ...
Norton, by Weston and Wappenbury...
Is'apton
Newbold Pacey, through Tachbrook ...
Norton Church ...
Oakley Wood Gate, through Tachbrook
Offchurch Church
Princethorp, house near Wood
Eadford Semele, turn to the Church...
EoTS-ington Church
Eyton Church, by Bubbenhall
'„ Bull and Butcher, on Southam Eoad
Sherbourne, opposite Sherbourne House
Snitterfield Church, by Warwick
Southam Church
Stank Hill
Stivichall Church
Stockton, through Long Itchington . . .
Stoneleigh Abbey
„ Lodge, on Kenilworth Eoad
Stratford Bridge, by Warwick
Stretton ... ... ... ...__.
Tachbrook, to the Church ... ... ... 2 6
5
4
3
3
6
9
4
6
4
5
5
5
6
6
2
5
7
6
6
1
5
8
5
1
4
4
6
7
3
8
5
5
4
13
11
1
9
7
9
5
. 8
1
1
3
. 8
5
1
2
7
'. 1
4
3
. 8
3
. 10
7
. 6
5
2
. 6
6
2
. 4
4
. 3
3
• 7
3
. 1
5
6
. 8
6
2
. 7
3
2
. 7
. 5
. 8
1
6
. 7
3
. 3
6
. 8
4
7
. 8
5
1
. 5
1
6
. 3
6
4
. 10
6
1
. 8
5
7
SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
393
TABLE OF DISTANCES.— CoKtMitiCcJ
Uf ton Church ...
Walton
Wappenburj'
Warwick, Castle Gate
„ St. Marsh's Church
Wasperton Church
Welcomb Lodge, by Warwick
Wellesbourne, by Warwick
„ by Tachbrook
Weston Church
Whitnash Church
Willenhall Bridge
Woodcote House
Wolston
Wolverton Church, by Xorton
Woottou Church
Wroxall Abbey ...
One Cliatu makes 22 Yards ; 10 Chains, one Furlong ;
one Mile.
M.
F. c.
... 4
2 2
... 10
... 5
4 7
2
3 4
2
5 4
'.'.'. 6
6 9
... 9
6 7
... 9
... 8
1
... 4
2 6
... 1
3
... 9
... 5
3 4
... 9
... 8
1
... 4
6 7
... 8
3
eight Furlongs
394
SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
TABLE OF DISTANCES BY ROAD FROM
COVENTRY.
AUesley
Anstey
Arbury
Ashow
MILES.
2
... 6i
Astley
Baginton
Bedworth
... 7
... 3
... 51
Berkswell
... 6
Binley
Brandon
... 3
... H
Brinklow
... 6*
Bubbenhall ...
... 5
Bulkington . . .
... 7
Chilvers Coton
... 8
Coleshill
... 12
Combe
.. 4
Corley
Cubbington ...
... 4
... 7
Exhall
... 4i
Fillongley
Foleshill
... 6
2
Honiley
Kenilworth . . .
.'." 8
... 6
Leek Wootton
... 7
MIL ES.
Longford ... ... 4
Maxstoke Castle by
Meriden x ... 10|
Maxstoke Priory by
Meriden x ... 9
Meriden ... ... 6
Nuneaton ... ... 9
Princethorpe ... ... 6
Radford IJ
Ryton-ou-Dunsmore ... 4|
Shilton ... ... 5|
Sowe ... ... 3
Stivichall ... ... 1^
Stoke ... ... 1|
Stoneleigh ... ... 4|
Stretton - on - Dunsmore 6
Tile Hill 3
Wappenbury ... ... 7
Weston-und'r-Weatherl'y 7
Whitley ... ... 2
Willenhall 3
Wolston ... ... i3|
Wyken 2i
shakespeaee's land.
395
TABLE OF FARES FEOM LEAMINGTON BY LONDON
AND NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY".
^
Single.
Eetukn
TO
1st.
2nd.
3ed.
1st.
2nd.
3bd.
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
s.
d.
s. d.
s. d.
Berkswell i
1 9
1 4
10
3
2 3
1 8
Bil'dingbury "
1 9
1 2
8
3
2
1 *
Birmingham
4
3
1 Hi
6
9
5
3 11
Brandon s
2 3
1 6
1 U
3
9
2 6
2 3
Coventry
1 6
1
8i
2
6
1 9
1 5
D unchurch
1 10
1 5
lOi
3
2
2 5
1 9
Hampton-in-
Arden 3
2 5
1 9
1 1^
4
2
3
2 3
Kenil worth e
10
7
4"
1
5
1
8
London (Euston) ...
15 3
11 8
8 li
28
3
21 9
U 6*
Marston Green ^ ...
3
2 3
1 5
5
3 9
2 10
Marton »
1 1
10
6i
1
10
1 5
1 1
Nuneaton »
3 2
2
1 7
5
6
3 10
3 2
Rugby w
2 6
1 9
1 3
4
3
3
2 6
1 For Berksu-ell one mile und a quarter. Temple Balsall three%iiles.
2 For Boiirtoii-on-Dunsmore one mile. Frankton one mile. Leamington
Hastings one mile and a half.
3 For Church Lawford three miles. Ryton three miles. WoUton half
a mile.
* For Dunchurch two miles.
5 For Meriden three miles. O'rcaJ Paclington two miles and a half.
6 For Ashovi two miles and a half. Honiley three miles, ieci*
IFoo^oii one mile and a half. Stondeigh three miles.
^ For C'okshiU three miles and a half.
** For Long Itchiinjton two miles. Southam four miles (omnibus).
Wapptnbi'.ry three miles.
9 For y4?'6i'.?-y three miles. Astley four miles.
10 For Bilton two miles and a half. Church Laicford four miles.
* During the Tom-ist Season.
396
SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
TABLE OF FAEES FROM LEAMINGTON BY GREAT
WESTERN RAILWAY.
Alcesten
Banbury -
Bearlej- 3
Claverdon*
Fenny Compton 5 ...
Great Alno "^
Harbury'
Hatton»
Kingswood ^
Knowlew
London (Pad'ton)...
Solihull
Stratford-on-Avon...
Warwick n
Wilmcote 12
1st. 2nd. 3rd
s. d.
3 10
3 6
1 11
2 3
15 3
2 11
2 10
5
2 9
s. d.
2 8
2 6
1 8
1 2
1 6
2 4-
11
10
1 5
1 8
11 8
2 2
2
4
1 11
s. d.
1 5A
1 8"
11
8
11
1 4
7
7
lOi
1 1
Return.
1st. 2nd. 3ed
s. d.
6 6
5 9
4-
2 8
3 6
5 8
I 10
1 10
3 6
s. d.
4 6
2 10
2
s. d.
2 11
3 4
1 10
1 4
1 10
2 8
14 6*
2 9
2 6
4
2 1
1 For Arrovj, one mile. Cov.gldon, two miles. Exhall, two miles
and a quarter. Hamlor, two miles and a half. Temple Grafton, three
miles. WLvforJ, two miles.
2 For Sulprave, six miles and a half.
s For Astoii Cantloif, two miles and a half. Heiilcy-in-Arden four
miles. Snitterfleld, three miles. Wootton Wawen, two miles.
* For Claverdon, half a mile. Norton Lindgcy one mile and a half
Pinley, one mile and a half. Woherton, one mile and a half.
5 VoT Aeon Dassett, two miles. Burton Dassett, two miles. Farn-
boroiifjh, two miles, Sulgrarc, eleven miles. Wnnninr/ton, four miles.
Waterr/all, two miles. Wormlevjkton, one mile and a half
^ For Aston Cantlow, one mile and a half.
' For Bishox>s ItcMnyfon, one mile and a quarter. Chestertoyi, three
miles. Ladbroke, one mile and a half. Soutkam, two miles and a half
(omnibus). Ufton, two miles and a lialf.
* For Ifattoa, one mile. Haselfv, two miles. Wroxall three miles.
9 For Baddesley Clinton, one mile and a half. Lapworth, two miles.
JRoicinriton, one mile and a half.
10 For Knoirle, one mile and a quarter (omnibus). Pcxckioood, one
mile and a half. Temple Bahall, thi-ee miles.
11 For Bv.dbroolc, two miles. Hamxiton-on-the-Hill, two miles.
12 For Billeahy, two mQes. Wilmcote, half a mile.
* Diuiug the Tourist Season.
SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
397
TABLE OF FARES FROM STRATFORD-OX-AVON B
EAST AND WEST JUNCTION RAILWAY.
Alcester i
Bidford 3
Binton a
Bliswoilh
Broom
By field
Coughton
Ettington *
Fenny Compton 5
Kineton 6
London (Euston) ..
Moreton Pinkney ^
Towcester
WLxford «
Single.
1st. 2nd. 3rd
s. d.
1 8
1 2
7
9
3
9
9
1
5
1 11
s. d.
10
6
4 9
1
2 10
s. d.
10
6
3i
3 2
7i
1 lOi
1
5
1 3i
9
8 5
2 2i
2 10
8
Return.
1st. 2nd. 3rd,
s. d.
2 10
2
1
18
2
10 8
3
2
6
31
12
15
2
s. d.
1 5
10
7 11
1 8
4 9
s. d.
1 8
1
6
6 4
1 3
2
10
2 7
1 6
14 9*
4 5
5 8
1 4
1 For Arroie, one mile. Hasdor, two miles and a half.
2 For Barton, one mile. HillborougJi, one mile and a half.
^ For Binton, half a mile. Temi)ie Grafton, two miles. ICcJ/bi-c?, one
mile.
* For Walton Hall, two mOes and a half. Wliatcote, four miles.
■'' For ^fo'/i DtisKit, two miles. Burton Dassett, two miles. i^Vtrw-
horough, two miles. Wannington, fovir miles. Watergall, tw« mUes.
Wormleighton, one mile and a half.
6 For Butler's Marston, one mile and a half. ChadsJiunt, one mile
and a half. Comhroke, two miles. Compton Wynyates, seven miles.
Compton Vcrncy, two miles. Go.ydon, two miles and three-cxuarters.
Lighthorac, four- miles. OxhilL, four miles. Pillcrton Herscy, three
miles. Railway three miles and a half. Ratlcy, four miles and a half.
Tysoe, four miles and a half. Wari/iington, five miles.
7 For Sul grave, two miles and a half.
* For Exhall, one mile and a quarter. Temple Grafton, two milee
and a quarter. Wic'ord, three-quarters of a mile.
* Dui-ing the Tourist Season.
398
SHAKESPEARE S LAND.
TABLE OF FARES FROM STRATFORD-ON-AVON BY
GREAT AYESTERN RAILWAY.
SlWGLE.
Return.
TO
1
1st.
2nd.
3ed.
1st.
2nd.
3rd.
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
Alcester
2 1
1 9
10
3 10
3
1 8
Bearley
1 1
9
5
1 10
1 3
10
Claverdon
1 10
1 3
8
3 3
2 2
1 4
Hatton
2
1 4
91
3 6
2 3
1 7
London (Paddin'ton)
17 3
12 5
8 5
31 6
22 2
14 9*
Warwick
2 6
1 9
i U
3 9
2 10
2 3
Wilmcote
9
6
3
1 3
10
6
For localities served by the above stations see table of fares from
Leamington.
* During the Tourist Season.
GENEKAL INDEX.
%* Where several references are given in connection with a place,
italic numerals {!!>■''') are used to distinguish the page on wliich the
description of the place is given, the other numerals in ordinary type
merely indicate the pages on which cross references will be found.
PAGE.
Abbot, William, parish clerk
of Sulgrave, a house-
brealfer and highway-
man 370
Abbotts, William, founder
of Spa-water baths at
Leamington 2, 9
Abercromby, Sir Ralph, at
Kugby 276
Addisox, Joseph, at Bilton
Hall. 271 ; portrait of , 272
Adelaide, Queen, at Leam-
ington, 6 ; at Warwick, 39
Aleyn, Simon, famous vicar
of Bray xxii
Alice, Countess Dowager
OF Derby, the Amaryllis
of Spenser 243
Allesley 249
Alcester xiv. 162
Alcock's Arbour ... xiii, 183
Aldbury' Hill xx
Alne, Great 162
„ River ... xiii, 162, 187
Altars, ancient, 178, 295, 296,
317,349
Althorp Park xxi
Alveston 70, 374
AxvA, Duke OF, portrait of ... 31
Anchorage, or Domus
INCLUSI, at Warming-
ton, 317 ; at Brailes, 356
Anne, Peincj:ss, afterwards
Queen, at Coventry, 154,
158 ; educated and
married bv Compton,
Bishop of London, 353 ;
portraits of, 30, 67, 133
Arbury XV, 256
„ curious method of
announcing meal-
times at 260
„ Hill 373
„ Park 253
Aeden Forest xiii, 176
PAGE.
Arden, Mary, mother of Wm.
Shakespeare, her house
at Wilmoote ... 73, 165
Arden's Grafton 185
Arlescote 291
Arnold, Benedict, builds a
mill at Rhode Island on
the plan of Chesterton
Windmill 303
Arnold, Dr. Thomas, head-
master of Rugbv, grave
of ". 275
Arrow 171
River xiii, 171, 176
Arthur, Prince, at Coventry 158
Ashorne 309
Ashow 238
Ashton xxi
Asps 63
Astley Castle 253
,, Church 255
Astley', Sir Jacob, his prayer
at the Battle of Edge;Hill 333
Aston Bridge 367
,, Cantlow 161
Aston-le-Walls 367
Augustine, St., legend of, at
Long Compton 362
Avon, Riv^r, xiii, 15, 21, 28, 29
34, 63, 64,66, 68, 72, 92,
101, 102, 106, 107, 167,
168,169,238,244,245,281
Avon Dassett ... 290, 293, 316
Aynho xxiv
Baddesley Clinton Church 208
„ „ Hall xiv, 210
Baginton 247
Bagot, Walter, drowned, 34 ;
buried, 308
Baker, Moses, gibbetted for
murder 127
Balsall (see Temple Balsall)
Balshall, Thomas, builds
chancel of Stratford
Church, 93 ; his tomb, 100
400
PAGE.
Banbury ... xxiv, 373
Banner Hill Farm 19
Bardon Hill 167
Barfohi) 03, 71, 319
Barmoor Wood 195
Barnard, Lady, grand-
daughter of Shake-
speare, 75. 86 ; will of,
79 ; married to her
second husband at
Billesley, 83, 186
Baetley, Ann, actress, her
grave 1^3
Barton 168
Bascote 285
Basildon Park xxiii
Bates, Thomas, Catesby's
servant, at Northbrook,
73 ; at Coughton, 179
Bath, badge of the ancient
order of 324
Bath Hill 320
Battle Farm 328, 338
Battlefield or Edge Hill
328, 330, 340
Beacon Field 251
Bearley 73, 161
Beaucuamp, Guy de, takes
G-aveston prisoner, 38 ;
arms at Lighthorne, 314
Beauchamp, Richard de,
founds Chantry at Guy's
Cliff, 14 ; entertains
Henry V., 14 ; founds
Beauchamp Chapel, 45 ;
his tomb, 47
Beauchamp, Thomas de (the
elder), builds Good
Rest Lodge, Caesar's
Tower audi the outer
walls at Warwick, 24,
38; his tomb, 43; enlarges
WedgnoekPark, 207
Beauchamp, Thomas de (the
younger), builds Guy's
Tower, 23 ; builds choir
of St. Mary's Church,
42 ; his tomb, 42 ; builds
tower of St. [James's
Chapel, 55 tomb of his
esquire, 223
Beauchamp's Court 176
Beaudbsebt 190
Bede, Adam, original of the
Hall Farm in, 251 ;
reputed original of the
character, 262
PAGE.
Bedford, John, Duke of,
builds Fulbroke Castle... 72
Bedmorth 262
Bell, legend of the, at
Whitnash 301
Benson, Dr., Archbishop of
Canterbury, at Rugby 276
Beegavenny, Lady Joan,
builds gatehouse at Ful-
broke 72
BeRKHAMPSTEAD ... XX
Berkswell 221
,, amusing contre-
temps at ... 222
Bernher, Augustin, Rector
of Southara 284
Berry Hall 202
BlDFORD 169
Billbsley' 186
Bilton Church 273
,, Grange 278
Hall* ... xv, 271
,, Manor House ... 271
BiNLEY 265
BiNTON Bridges 167
„ Church 167
BiRDINGBURY XXii, 270
Bird-in-Hand 191, 195
Bishop's Itchington 286
Bishop's Tachbrook
34, SOS, 314, 316
Bishopton 166
Blacklotv Hill 19
Blakeuown Mill 20, 107, 238
Blight, Ellen, killed by a
tiger " ... 152
Blisworth xxi
Slythe Hall 232
,, River ... xiii, 232
BoDDiNGTON Hill 367
Bohemia, Queen (see Eliza-
beth, Princess)
BOLKYN, Anne, (1507-1536)
portrait of, 30 ; letter
from, announcing birth
of Princess Elizabeth 134
BoNGEY, Cornelius, burnt
for heresy 151
Bdtoner, family build St.
Michael's Church,
Coventry 136
Boughton, Sir Theodo.sius,
poisoned by his brother-
in-law 266
Bourton-on-Dunsmore ... 270
Bowshot Wood 310
BOXMOOR XX
* The Misses Bridgeman-Simpson allow the pictures to be viewed
en week days between 1 p.m. and 4-30 p m.
INDEX.
401
PAGE.
Bradley, John, and Mary
White, do public
penance 368
BfiADNOCK'S MAESH 226
Bradwell, Old ... xxi
Brailes 355
Brandon Castle 280
Brat xxii
Bretford .. „. ... 266
Brickhill (see Great Brick-
hill)
Bridge Town ... . ... 71
Beidgewater, Francis,
Duke of, monument to
commemorate xx
Bright Hill 364
Brome Hall 206
Brome, Nicholas, kills John
Herthill, 71 ; kills the
parish priest of Baddes-
ley, 209 ; builds towers
of Pack wood and Bad-
deslev as an expiation
196, 209
Brooke, Lurd Robert,
breastplate and morion
of, 27 ; portrait of, 29 ;
at the Battle of Edge
Hill, 331
bubbenhall 281
Buckingham, George Vil-
LiERS, Duke of, por-
traits of 31,272
budbrook 207
Bullet Hill ... 335
Bull Oak 207
Bunker's Hill (near Chester-
ton) 306
Bunker's Hill (.nearWelford) 168
Burdett, family ancient
residence of, 173;
Thomas Burdett con-
demned as a traitor ... 173
Burrow Hill 252
Burton Dassett Beacon
xxiv, ^'J3, 316, 335
,, ,, Church SM, 316
Bushey xix
BusHwoou Hall 205
Butler's Mar.ston ... 311, 328
Byron, Lord, portrait of ...242
Caludon Castle 264
Camp Hill 191
„ Lane 337
Carew, Sir George, Earl of
Totness, his tomb, 95 ;
owner of Clopton House,
104 ; his portrait, 103
Castle Hill. Brailes ... 355
,, Fulbroke 72
page.
Catesby, Robert, Gunpowder
Conspirator, visits Clop-
ton House, 104 ; born at
Bushwood Hall, 205 ; at
Dunchurch, 278.
Caversham xxiii
Chadshuxt Church 297
House 297
Chadwick End 218
Chalcomb Hill 373
Chalybeate Wells (.see
Minei-al Springs)
Chantry Heath 247
Charlecote Church ... 64
,, Hall xiv, 66
Charles I. atHolmby House,
xxi ; at Caversham
House, xxiii ; at the
B-fttle of Cropredy
Bridge, xxiv ; at Kenil-
worth, 125, 330 ; refused
entrance to Coventry,
157 ; at Packington,224 ;
330 : at Stoneleigh, 245 ;
at Whitley Abbey, 281 ;
at Southam. 284, 330;
in a skirmish at Bascote,
285; at the Battle of
Edge Hill, 329, 332 ; at
Edgcote, 330, 367; at
Edge Hill House, 340 ;
figures in the picture
by Charles Landseer of
the eve of the Battle of
Edge Hill, 340 ; meets
Queen Henrietta Maria,
341 ; medal struck to
commemorate his meet-
ing with the Queen, 342 ;
at Compton Wyiiyates,
347, 348, 353; "at Cul-
worth, 368 ; portraits of,
26, 29,31,32,68,135.243,
272,323; bust of, 29
Charles II., narrow escape
near Bearley Cross, 161 ;
turns the kitchen spit
at Long Marston, 168 ;
takes refreslmient at
Packington, 225 ; at the
Battle of Edge Hill,
335, 337 ; at Edgcote,
367 ; portraits of, 29, 68,
133,234,258
Chatham, Earl of, (1708-
1778) at Radway .. 330
Chauncy, Mr. Toby, of Edge-
cote, entertains Charles
I. and the Princes
Charles and James 330, 367
402
PAGE.
Cheddixgtox xxi
Cherixgtox 357
Oherlecote, Thomas be,
strangled by his servants 214
Chesforp Bridge 1C7
Chesterton Camp ... xiv, 301
,, Chvrch 304
Green 303
,, ^AlXDMllx, xxiv,
3o3, 316
„ Wood ... 314, 316
Child, Me. Robert, his
daughter Sarah runs
away with Lord West-
morhind 339
Childs, JIr. George W.,
presents a fountaiu to
Stratford 102
Child's Oak 226
Chilterx Hills ... xxiii
Chilvers Cotox 261
Chippendale, Thomas, carv-
ings by, at Compton
Wynyates 347
Cholsey...* xxiii
Church Lawford 266
Church Tysoe 329, ai-'
CL.A.RENCF. George, Duke of,
at Warwick, 38 ; liis
wife, Isabel, dies there,
38
Claterdox 73, 19U
Cliftox, Sir Gervas (1588-
1666), of Clifton, county
Nottingham, his lines
on Lettice, Countess of
Leicester 50
Clixtox Family at Kenil-
worth, 119 ; at Bad-
desley, 210 ; atColeshill,
229 ; at Maxstoke, 232 ;
at Brandon, 280
Cliveden xxii
Cloptox, Charlotte, the
"ghost lady" a myth,
87, 103
Clopton, Sir Hugh, the
elder, builds New Place,
85 ; re-builds the Guild
Chapel, 83; his ceno-
taph at Stratford, 94 ;
builds the great stone
bridge at Stratford, 102
Cloptox, Sir Hugh, the
younger, repairs New
Place 86
PAGE.
Clopton, Sir John, owner of
New Place, 86, 104 ; his
tomb, 95
Clopton, Margaret, a pro-
totype of Ophelia 94, 104
Cloptox, William, his lomb 94
Cnut.King, destroys Coventry 155
CoiiHAM, Lord (See Old-
castle, Sir John).
CocKAix, Sir Astox, his lines
on Wincot Ale 166
Cole Eiver xiii, 228
Coleshill Church 228
Park 232
Combe Abbey- xiv, 265
Combe, John, the friend of
Shakespeare, his tomb,
ICO ; owner of the
College. 101
Combe, William, his house
at Weicombe, 73 ; his
tomb, 101; marriage of
his daughter Marv 308
Combroke " ... 310
CoMPiox Fenxy- (see Fenny
Compton)
Compton, Long (see Long
Compton)
Compton Pike 354
Comptox Yersey- 310
,, Chapel ... 323
House, xv, 321
Compton Wyxy'ates Church 351
,, House*
xiv, 344
Compton, Henry, Bishop of
London, born at Comp-
ton Wynvates 353
Compton, Sir William, pulls
down Fulbroke Castle,
72 ; builds Compton
Wynvates, 352 ; his
effigy, 351
CorleY'Camp xiv, 252
„ Church 250
,, Hall 251
„ Books 251
COUGHTON CHU'ECH 180
,, Court, xiv, 73, 176
Coventry, xiv, 127, 248, 263, 282
Bablake Old School,
149 ; Barracks,149 ; Blue
Coat School (girls), 145 ;
Bond's Ho ipital, 149 ;
Burgess, 147 ; Butcher
Row, 146; Cathedral, 145;
* Permission is granted to view the chief portions of the house on
Waliusdaijs and iafitntays from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the absence of
the family
403
PAGE.
Coventry Cemetery, 152 ;
Charter-house, * 152 ;
Chevlesmore, 155 ;
Clir'ist Church, 129 ;
Cook Street Gate, 146 ;
Corn Exchange, 150 ;
Coventiy and Warwick-
shire Hospital, 147 ;
County Hal), 130 ; Cross
Cheaping, 147 ; Derby
Lane, 130 ; Dover
Bridge, 154 ; Empire
Theatre, 150 ; Ford's
Hospital, 129 ; Free
Public Library, 130 ;
Gosford Green, 154 ;
Grey Friar's Green, 128 ;
Historical Notes on
Coventry, 155 ; Holy
Trinity " Cliurch, 143 ;
Industries, 155 ; Jordan
Well, 154 ; King's
Head Hotel, 150; Lady
Godiva, 156 ; Little
Park Street, 150;
Market Hall, 147 ;
Mayor's Parlour, 147 ;
Mount Pleasant, 154 ;
Much Park Street, 153 ;
New Buildings, 146 ;
New Opera House, 147 ;
Old Star Inn, 153;
Palace Yard, 155 ;
Palmer Lane, 1'16 ; Park
Hollows, 151 ; Peeping
Tom, 150; Pepper Lane,
130; Queen's Hotel, 150;
Bt. John the Baptist
Church, 147 ; St. John's
Hospital (Church of),
147; St. Mark's Church,
147; St. Mary's Hall,
130 ; St. Michael's
Church, 135; Spencer
Park, 127; Stivicball
Common, 127; Swanswell
Gate, 146 ; Swanswell
Pool and Recreation
Ground, 147 ; Theatre
Royal, 150 ; White
Friars Monastery, 151.
Covered Ways, ancient, at
Wixford, 170; at Bret-
ford, 266
Crab Mill Inn 195
PAGE,
Cbaig, Ret. John, builds the
Cliiu'ch at Leamington 1
Crofts, Lord, portrait of ... 272
Cromwell, Oliver, at Max-
stoke, 352; at the Battle
of Edge Hill, 332, 335.
Cropredy xxiv, 331
Crosses, entire or restored,] 62,
189,193,223,283,338,344
,, remains of, 80, 171,
176, 185, 224, 253,
271, 298, 363, 367
Cruwe, Thomas de. Steward
to Richard Beauchamp,
tomb of 171
CUBIilNGTON . . . . 00, 267
OucKiNG Stool at Warwick... 45
Cuckoo Hill 20
oulworth 367
,, gang of house-
breakers and high-
waymen ... 368, 370
Davenport, John, rector of
Whatcote, dies at the
age of 104 313
Davis, Richard, his curious
epitaph 358
Deddin(4ton Castle ... xxiv
Dene River ... xlii, 66, 68, 327
Despensek. Hugh le, at
Warwick 38
Dickens, Charles, at Leam-
ington, 10 ; introduces
the town in " Dcmbey
and Son," 8
DiGBY, Sir Everard, rests at
Northbrook,73; occupies
Coughton Court, 179 ;
at Dunehurch, 278
Dingles, The 73
DoMUS lNCLUSl,or Anchorage,
at Warmington, 317 ; at
Brailes, 356.
Donnellan,Cai>tain, poisons
his brother-in-law, 266 ;
is hanged at Warwick, 58
Deury, Edward, gibbetted
for murder 127
DuBRiTius, St., builds an
oratory at Guy's Cliff,
14; establishes an Episco-
pal See at Warwick ... 37
Dudley, A.mbrose, Earl oe
Warwick, lord of Leam-
ington, 12; receives grant
of Warwick Castle, 38 ;
* Mr. Wyley allows visitors ivhn present their viailiiig cardx to view the
portions of the house of public interest on Wednesdays and Fridays from
2 to 4 p.m.
404
PAGE.
Dudley, AsrBRosE, Earl of
Warwick, entertains
Queen Elizabeth, 38 ; his
tomb, 60 ; lord of Strat-
ford, 105; inherits Kenil-
worth Castle, 124
Dudley, Robert, Earl of
Leicester, his tomb, 49 ;
founds Leyeester Hos-
pital, 53 ; liis company
bt players, 82, 89 ; his
erections and alterations
at Kenihvorth, 109, 110,
113, 115, 116, 117, 118,
122 ; receives grant of
Eenilwoi'th, 122 ; enter-
tains Queen Elizabeth,
12 2; marries Lady
Douglas Sheffield, 124 ;
intrigues with Lettice,
Countess of Essex, 124,
2 3 2; marries Lady
Lettice, 124 ; receives
grant of Grove Park,
203 ; at Wormleighton,
288 ; books formerly
belonging to, 323 ; por-
traits of, 33, 205
Dudley, ItoBERT, Baron of
Denbigh, his tomb, 51 ;
his birth. 124
Dudley, Sir Robert, son of
the Earl of Leicester,
builds a lobby at Kenil-
worth, 116 ; his parent-
age, 124 ; marries Alice
Leigh, 124 ; inherits
Kenihvorth, 124 ; com-
mits bigamy, 125
Dudley, Duchess, marries
Sir Robert Dudley, 124 ;
created Duchess by
Charles I., 246 ; presents
service of Church plate
to Bidford, 170 ; Ashow,
238 ; Ladbroke, 286 ;
her tomb, 246 ; portrait
of, 244
DuGDALE, Sir William, the
antiquary, dies at Blythe
Hall, 232 ; portraits of.
33, 204
Duke Bridge 237
Duke's End 235
duxchuhch 278
Dun Cow, habitat of 270, 280
,, various ribs of
27, 154, 270
dcnsmoor 368
Eathorpe 268
PAGE
Edgecotb 331
Edgecote House ... 330, 367
Edge Hill 299,316
Edge Hill, Battle of,
XV, 328, 330, 340
House 331, 335, 3U0
Edstone Hall 73,189
Edward I., at Kenilworth 114
Edward II., at Warwick, 38 ;
at Kenilworth, 121 ; at
Coventry, 158
Edward IV. a prisoner at
Warwick, 38 ; a guest
at Coventry, 158 ; kills
the favourite whitebuck
of Thomas Burdett, 173
Edward VI., portrait of... 174
Edward, the Black Prince,
his Manor House at
Coventry, 155 ; bust of,
31
Edward, Prince, son of
Edward IV, at Coventry 156
Edwards, ^Villiam, purchases
Guys Cliff, 15 ; founds
Free School at Kenil-
worth, 108 ; buried at
Hatton, 213
Elevation CANDLESTiCKS.pre-
served at Aston Cantlow 162
Elliston, Robert William,
comedian (1774-1831) at
Leamington 10
Eliot, George (see Evans
Mary Anne)
Elizabeth, Queen, at War-
wick Castle, 38 ; at
Warwick Priory, 57 ; at
Long Itchington. 62 ; at
Charlecote, 69 ; at Kenil-
worth, 114. 117, 118,
122 ; at Coventry, 151,
158 ; at Wormleighton,
288 ; at Compton Wyn-
yates, 352 ; at Edgecote,
367 ; writes to the Mayor
of Coventry, 134 ; port-
raits of, 33, 68, 135, 322 ;
bust of, 67
Elizabeth, Princess, after-
wards Queen of Bohe-
mia, entertained at
Coventry, 154, 158, at
Combe Abbey, 265 ;
portrait of, 243
Emscote 14, ?i
Epitaphs, Curious, 43,59, 62,
96, 99, 138, 139.142, 194,
201,245,248,249.263,267,
284, 296, 301, 344, S.'^B
405
PAGE.
Essex, Eakl, Commander of
Parliamentary Forces
at Biltoi), 278 ; at Edge
Hill, 331
Ethelfleda, erects a Keep
at Warwick ... 25, 37
EuGEJfiE, Empeess, at Leam-
ington 7
EusTON Station xix
EvAss, Makv An>e, at scliool
at Coventry, 150 ; her
birtl]place,256 ; baptised
at Cliilvers Coton, 262 ;
resides with her fatlier
at Griff House, 262 ;
reputed originals of the
Hall Farm, 251 : Kneb-
ley Church, 256 ; Shep-
perton Church, 2 61 ;
reputed originals of the
characters of Sir Chris-
topher Cheverel, 257 ;
Mr. Gilfil, 262 ; Cater-
ina, 262 ; Tom Tulliver,
262 ; and Adam Bede,
262
Excommunicated Peesons,
remains of 315
Exhall (near Coventry) ... 262
,, ,, Stratford - on -
Avon) 170
Faeneorough 290
Faenswokth, Phillips and
Archer hanged for
robbery 250
Pawsley Chuech 372
Feldon xiii, 176. 355
Penny Compton, Station,
286, 367
,, Village ... 286, 2i)3
Wharf ... 286, 290
Ferrers, Henry, the anti-
quary, at Baddesley ... 210
Fielding, Henry, the novel-
ist (1707-1754) atRadwav 330
Fig Pudding eaten at Mid
Lent 3S3
Fillongley 253
Fletcher's Hole 214
Flower, Charles E., a bene-
factor of Stratford 90, 92
foleshill 262
Fosse Koad or Way
xiv, 301 310, 321
Fox, (Jeorge, founder of the
Society of Quakers, at
Dunchurch... . „ 279
Fox, John, a guest at Charle-
cote, and married there 69
Feankton 270
PAGE.
Friz Hill 320
FULBROKE ... 69, ?i', 352
Funeral Custom, curious at
Wolverton 193
Garfield, President, ances-
tors of, at Church Law-
ford 266
Garnet, Father, at Cough-
ton 179
G.iERicK, David (1717-1779)
jug from which he drank
at the Jubilee, 78 ; pre-
sents statue of Shakes-
peare and pictures to
Corporation of Stratford
84 ; at ISew Place, 85 ;
portraits of, 80, S4
Gastrell, Rev. Francis,
cuts down mulberry
tree and razes New
Place 86
Gaunt John of, re-builds
Kenilworth Castle ... 122
Gaveston, Piers, buried at
King's Langley, xix ;
seized at Deddington,
xxiv ; beheaded on
Blacklow Hill, 19 ; con-
demned at Warwick
Castle, 28
Gaydon Church 296
,, Hill 296
Inn ... 296, 315, 316
George IV., at Leamington,
6 ; at Warwick, 39 ; at
Eaglev, 171 ; portraits
of, 133, 175, 176
George, Pbincjo of Den-
mark, at Coventry, 154,
138 ; portrait of 67
Geoege-in-the-Trke 226
Ghost Legend, at Coughton,
179 ; at Chadshunt, 297
Gibbet Hill 127
Giffard, Sir John, surprises
Warwick Castle, 38, 120
Gilfil's (Mr.) love story by
George Eliot, originals
of the characters 257, 262
Glass, ancient stained, at
Warwick, 46 ; at Coven-
try, 131, 140, 144; at
Coughton, 181 ; at Wol-
verton, 193; at Baddesley
Ball, 211 ; at Wroxall,
217 ; at Stoneleigh, 242 ;
at Rugby, 275 ; at Chads-
hunt, 29'7 ; at Lighthorne
314 ; at ComptonVernev,
325 ; at Radway, 330 ;
406
PAGE.
Glass, ancient stained, at
Conipton Wj-nyates,
348 ; at Cherington, 357 ;
at Whioliford, 358
Gloucester, William Duke
of, baptised by Conip-
ton, Bifliop of London,
353 ; portrait of, 321
Glover, Hubert, burnt for
heresy 151
GoDivA, Countess, endows
Priory at Coventry, 146 ;
legend of, analysed, 156 ;
portraits of, 135, 144
GoDSTOAV xxiii
GONDOMAE, COUXT DE, the
Spanish Ambassador,
portrait of 31
Good Kest Lodge 19
GoKDOX, Captain Alexander
lulled at Edge Hill ... 318
GoRHAMUURv Park xix
GoscHEN, George Joachim,
educated at Kiigby ...276
Gospel Oaks 20, 165, 226, 247
Grafton Court 185
Grant, John, Gunpowder
Conspirator, liis liouse,
at Xorbrook. 72 ; visits
Clopton House, 104
Great Brickhill xxi
Greatheed, Samuel, pur-
chases Guy's Cliff ... 15
Gredknton Hill 293
Greenhill, Nicholas,
curious epitaph on ... 30 3
Greenway, Father, at
Coughton 179
Greville, Sir Pulke, en-
larges Warwick Castle,
25, 38 ; receives grant of
Warwick Castle, 38 ;
entertains James I., 39,
55 ; his tragic deatli and
tomb, 44 ; portrait of, 322
Gbeville.Sir FouLKE(grand-
father of Sir Fulke Gre-
ville, of Warwick), his
tomb 163
Griff House 262
Grimshaw Hall ... xv, 198
Grotto, The xxiii
Grove Hill 184
Grove Park (Herts) ... xix
(Warwick) ... 203
GuNDREDA, CoirNTESS OF
Warwick, expels King
Stephen's soldiers ... 37
PAGE.
Gunpowder Con.spihatoes,
at Nortlibrook, 72; at
Clopton House, 104 ; at
Cougliton, 179 ; at Dun-
church, 278 ; Capture of
several in Bearley
Bushes, 161
Guy, Earl of Warwick,
romance of, 14 ; statue
of, 17 ; his porridge pot,
26 ; liis armour, 27 ; stat-
uette of, as a palmer, 31
Guy's Cliff* xv, 12, lU, 108 213
GwYNNE, Nell, portrait of ... 175
Hales, John, founds free
school at Coventry,
147 ; entertains Queen
Elizabeth, 151
Hall, Elizabeth, marries
Thomas Nashe, 83 ; sub-
sequently marries John
Barnard, 83
Hall, Dr., marries Susanna
Shakespeare, 83 ; tomb
of, 99 ; house of, 101
Hall, Susanna, owner of the
birtliplaceandwoolshop,
75; birth, 82; tomb of, lOO
Hamilton, Lady, at (Joventry,
150 ; her portrait, 175
Hamilton, Sir William,
sends home the W'ar-
wick Vase, 36 ; visits
Coventry, 150
Hamlet, Danlsli words in ... 82
Hampden, John, at Bilton,
278 ; at Edge Hill, 334 ;
portrait of, 2C4
Hampton Field 227
Hampton-in-Arden 226
Hamptonon-the-Hill ... 203
Hampton Lucy CA, 72, 73
Han WELL xxii
Harbury xxlv, 283, 506
Harley, Richard, Earl of
Oxford, portrait of ... 323
Harrow-onthe-Hill xix, xxii
Hakt, Joan, sister of William
Shakespeare, 75, 77 ; her
descendants, 75, 76
Harvard, John, marries
Katiierine, daughter of
Thomas Rogers, of Strat-
ford 84
Harvey, Dr. Willia.m, (1578-
1658) in charge of the
Princes at the Battle of
Edge Hill 335, 337
* Permission is granted to view the chief portions of the house and
grounds durliiij the absence of the famili/ only.
INDEX.
407
PAGE.
Harwood's House 316
Haseley 213
Haselor 183, ISo
Hatuawav, Anne, lier marri-
age with Shakespeare,
82,184; at New Place, 85 ;
lier reputed Cottage,
104 ; her frrave, 99
H A T H A AV A Y, T H O M A S,
deeceiidaiit of Aime
Hathaway's family ... 87
Hattom AsYLu>r 207
,, CHURCir 213
„ Jltnctiox 73
Hawkins. Edwakd, dissipates
the property left by his
father, bl ; owner of the
house in which Queeu
Elizibeth dines, 62
Hawkins, Thomas (alias
Fisher), receives grant
of Priory at Warwick,
57 ; visited by Queen
Elizabeth. 57
Hawthorne, Nathaxiel, at
Leamington 8
Hay' Wood, a relic of prime-
val Arden 210
Helmoxt, .Ian Kaptista Van,
Flemish Alchemist, at
Kagley 174
Henlky-in Arden ... 1S9, 195
Henrietta, Maria, Queen,
at Stratford, 8S; meets
Charles I. in the Vale of
Kineton, 341 ; Dortraits,
29, 68. 323
Henry I., burial place of xxii
Henry II., acquires Kenil-
worth Castle 119
Henry III., at Kemlworth,
114, 116, 117, 119, 120
Henry IV., at Coventry, 154,
157, 158; at Baginton
Castle, 248
Henry v., at Guy's Cliff, 14 ;
at Warwick, 38 ; at
Kenilworth, 117, 122
Henry VI., at Kenilworth,
122 ; at Coventry, 132,
157, 158
Henry VII., at Kenilworth,
122; at Coventry, 149,
157, 158 ; chair in which
he was crowned at Bos-
worth, 235
Henry VIII., builds lodgings
and plaisance at Kenil-
worth, 114. 115, 122; at
Comptou Wynyates, 348;
PAGE.
Henry VIII., letters to the
Mayor of Coventry, 134 ;
portraits of, 3D, 68, 244
Henry. Prince, son of James
I., at Coventry 158
Hereford, Duke" of (see
Henry IV.)
Heywood, James, kills a
woman on the ground
that she is a witch ... 365
High Chimneys 206
HiQHDOWN Clump ... 301, 316
HiLLliOROUGH 168
HiLLFiELD Hall 201
Hill Morton xxi
Hill Wootton 20
Hill, Richard, curious
epitaph on 96
Hieon, WiLLlAJt, murder of,
70 ; memorial tablet, 71
HiTCHiN, Edward, and
Nathan Hayxics, bread
weighers and ale tasters,
of Alcester, their curious
presentment 164
Holland, Philemon, his
tomb 144
HOLMBY or HOLDENBY
House xxi
HoLYOKK, Francis, editor of
"Rider's Dictionary" ... 41
Holy Sepulchres
42, 193, 273, 285
Holy Well 285
Honiley 215
Hood, Robin, his reputed
hunting horn, 224 ;
reputed birthplace. 320
Hook, Dr.,W. F., at Coventry,
145 ; portrait of, 145
How, Humphrey, porter to
Lord Leigh, his curious
epitaph 245
Hughes, Thomas, author of
" Tom Brown," at
Rugby 276
ICKNIELD Street ... xiv, 162
IFFLEY' xxiii
Is.iBEL, Queen, founds St.
John Baptist's Church,
at Coventry 147
Itchington, Bishoi''s (see
Bishop's Itchington)
Itchington, Long (tee Long
Itchington)
Jago, Richard, the Poet,
Vicar of Snitterfield,
160; birthplace of, 190;
at School at Solihull,
201
40S
PAGE.
Ja-MES I., at Warwick. 39, 55 ;
at Kenilworth, 124 ; at
Coventry, 153 ; at Edge
Hill House, 3^0; at
Compton WyiiTates.SilS,
353 ; portraits of, 135, 272
James II., at Coventry, 154,
168; at the Battle of
Edge Hill, 335, 337; at
Edgecote, 367 ; portraits
of, 68, 133, 258
Jephsox, Db., benefactor of
Leamington... 3, 5, 7
Johx,Ejxg, executes works at
Kenilworth. 116, 119;
holds Court at Kineton,
327
JoHXSOX, Michael, father
of Dr. Johnson, married
atPackwood 197
JoHxsox, Dr. S a m i' e l,
rejected for the post of
Schoolmasterat Solihull, 201
JOLLYFFE, Thomas, founds
Stratford Grammar
School 89
JoxES, Inigo, designs Wind-
mill at Chesterloij, xxiv, 303
Jrxox, Bishop, portrait of ... 309
Eexdall, Mr. T. H., the
celebrated wood carver... 58
KZXILWORTH ... xiv, 19, 107
Kenilworth Castle
Bastions, 108, 118 ;
Brays, 1C8, 118; But-
tery, 111; Caesar's
Tower or Keep, 109 ;
Chase, 118 ; Dam of
Great Lake. 117; Dud-
ley'sLobby. 114 ; Gallery
or Floodgate Tower,
117 ; Garden, 111 ; Gate
• House, 116 ; Great Hall,
112; Great Lake, 117;
Henry VIII.'s Lodgings,
114 ; Historical ^otes on
the Castle, ] 18 ; King's
Gate, 115 ; Kitchen,
111; Lancaster's Build-
ings, 111 ; Leicester's
Buildings, 113; Lunn's
Tower, 116 ; Mervyn's
Bower, 111 ; Mortimer's
Tower, 114 ; Plaisance,
lis ; Presence Chamber,
113; Privy Chamber,
113; Stables. 117; Strong
Tower, 111 ; Swan
Tower,115;Tilt Yard, 117;
Warder's Chamber, 117 ;
PAGE.
Ke>txwohth. Water Tower,
117 ; Well, 110 ; White
Hall, 113 ; Kenilworth
Church, 125
Ke>">"et, River xxii
Keresley 250
KiLSBY xxi
,, Tu>-NEL xxii
KiNETOX. xxii, 299, 311, 315, S~'7
House 328
,, ,, Dreadful
murder at,
in 1744 ... 328
BlrsG Charles's Road ... 336
„ John's Castle 327
,, Laxe 328
Well 327
King's Langley xix
King's Leys Barn 336
King's >(e^vnham 266
King's Sutton xxiv
KiNGsMiLL, Captain, grave
of, 329 ; monument of,
329 ; death of, 336
KiNGSWOOD 206
KiNJiAN, William, curious
epitaph on 344
KiNWAETON 162, 183
K>rA%-ES' Post at Coventry, 131, 153
KNEBLEr, in Mr. Gilfil's Love
Story, identical with
Astley 256
Knt:ghtlow Hill, 280; wroth
silver payment at, 281
Knowle 197, 212, 220
Knowle End 299, 331, 335, 337,341
Ladbroke SS5, 307
Landor, Walter Savage,
birthplace of, 22 ; at
Rugby, 276; bust of,
41 ; resideace of the
family of, 309
Lane, Jane, accompanies
Charles II. in his flight,
161, 225
Lane, ITicholas, effigy of,
70 ; torments John
Shakespeare, 374
Laneham, Robert, descrip-
tion of Kenilworth 109. Ill
Langley, Edmund de, Duke
of Tore, his tomb ... xix
Lap worth I'Jl, 195
,, OR BUSHWOOD Hall 205
Laud, Archbishop, portrait of 68
Law, Richard, hanged for
highway robbery ... 368
Lawrence, St., well in which
he is said to have
baptised converts ... 224
409
PAGE.
Lea, M. G., curious epitaph
on 253
Leam, Eivek
xiii, 1,3, 5,9, 12, 60, 268
LEASirs-GTOx Hastings ... 268
Leamington 1
Adelaide Bridge, 9 ; All
Saint's Church, 1 ;
Assembly Kooms, 6,
10 ; Bath Hotel, 9 ;
Bath Lane, 9 ; Beech
Lawn, 7; Binswood, 7 ;
Black Dog Inn, 10 ;
Campion Hills, 8 ; Ceme-
tery, 11 ; 'Jhrist Church,
7 ; Clarendon Hotel, 7 ;
Clarendon Square, 7 ;
College, 7 ; Crown Hotel,
11 : HoUv Walk, 7 ;
Holly Walk Chapel, 8 ;
Holy Trinity Church,
7 ; Home for Chronic
Diseases, 11 ; Jephson
Gardens, 5 ; L e a ni
Terrace, 12 ; Leaming-
ton Club, 7 ; Manor
House Hotel, 9 ; Mill,
12 ; Mill Street Chapel.
11 ; Newbold Comyn,
8 ; Newbold Hills, 8 ;
New River Walk, 9 ;
Old Bedford Hotel, 6;
Old Well, 2 ; Parade, 6 ;
Post Office, 2 ; Pump
Rooms, 3 ; Ranelagh
Gardens, 11 ; Eegent
Hotel, 6; Royal Hotel,
10; St. John's Church,
11 ; St. Luke's Ctuirch,
9; St. Mark's Church,
7; St. Mary's Church,
12 ; St. Paul's Church,
7; St. Peter's Church,
8 ; Shruhland Hall, 11;
Spencer Street Chapel,
9 ; Tennis Court, 9 ;
Theatre, 8, 10,11; Town
Hall, New, 6 ; Old,
10 ; f ictoria Bridge, 2 ;
Warneford Hospital, 10
Leather Coat Apples still
grown at Long Compton 363
Leek Wootton 19
Lees, Raphe, his quaint
entries in the Register
of Lighthorne 315
Leicester, Earls of (see
Dudley and Montford)
Leighton Buzzard xxi
PAGE.
Leofhic, Earl, founds
Monastery at Coventry,
116 ; legend of Godiva
analysed, 156 ; portrait
of 144
Leslie, Robert, gibbetted
for murder ... ... 127
Lighthorne 314
LiLLINGTON 5'J, 267
LiNDSEY, Earl OF, at the Battle
of Edge Hill, 332 ; is
wounded, 335 ; conveyed
to Edge Hill House,
335, 341 ; dies at War-
wick, 36, 39 ; portraits
of, 15, 29
Little Dasset 296
Littleham Bridge, the scene
of a murder and of a
curious superstition ... 70
Little Kineton 327
Little Lawford 266
Liveridge Hill ... 191, 195
LODDON, Rivek xxii
Lonesome Fohi> 205
longbridge ,~^, 319
Long Buckby xxi
Long Compton .'. 361
Long Itchington si
Long Lawford 266
Long Marston 123,168
Longfellow, H. W., the
ruined tower, com-
memorated in the
" Skeleton in Armour,"
a reproduction of
Chesterton Wiiidmill ... 303
Louis XIV., portrait of ... i2
Louis XVIII., at Dunchurch 279
Lower Boddington 367
Lower Pillerton ... 311 336
Lower Tysoe .' 342
LOXLEY 319
LeYOLA, Ignatius, portraits'
of 29 175
Lucy, name of, assumed by
William de Cherlecote
in 1216 66
Lucy, Sir Thomas (died 1600),
said to have prosecuted
Shakespeare, tomb of... 65
Lucy, Sir Thomas (died 1605),
tomb of 65
Lucy, Sir T)iomas (died 1640),'
exquisite effigy of, by
Bernini, 65; portraits of,
67
Lucy, William, liandsome
monument of 357
LUDDINGTON ^67
410
PAGE.
Macbeady, WiLLiA>r, the
actor, at Leamingtou,
6 ; at Rugby, 276
Maidenhead xxii
Maloxb, Edmund, discovers
Qnyney's letter to Shake-
speare, 79 ; distigures
Shakespeare's bust with
white paint, 98 ; epi-
gram on 98
Malvern Hall 199
,, Hills 316
Marston, Long (see Long
Marston)
Marton xxii, 268
Mary, Princess (afterwards
Queen), at Coventry,
168; portrait of, 135
Mary, Queen of Scots, a
prisoner at Coventry,
135, 149, 157 ; portraits
of, 242, 360
Matthews, John, c\irious
epitaph on 194
Maxstoke Castle, xlv, 225,
233 ; Priory, xiv,
225, 235
Maypole, Ancient, at Welford 168
May Queen annually elected
at Long Conipton ... 363
Mayerne, biB Theodore,
portrait of 174
Medici, Don Garzia de, a
fratricide killed by his
fatlier, portrait of ... 32
Mentmore Towers xxi
Meriden 223,249
„ Cross 224,237
Middleton, Captain, killed
during a race 329
Middleton Cheney 373
Middle Tysoe 342
Midsummer Night's Dream,
Oberon's vision
suggestive of Kenil-
worth 124
Milverton, Old ... 12, 19
Mineral Springs, at Leam-
ington, 3 : at Bishopton,
166 ; at King's Newn-
ham, 266 ; at Southam,
285; at Watergall, 286;
at Fenny Compton, 293
Monmouth, Duke of, at
Coventry, 153, 158 ;
portrait of, 30
Montford, Simon de, gov-
ernor of Kenilworth,
119, 125 ; death of, 120
page.
Montrose, James Graham,
Marquis OF, his armour,
27 ; his portrait, 2 8
MORBTON MORRELL CHURCH
309, 315
,, ,, Manor
House ... 38. 124, 310
Moreton Pinkney ... xxii, 373
MoKRicE Dancers, from
Long Marston, noted
123, 168
Motstow Hill 245
Moulsford xxiii
Myton 21, 03
Mytton, Jack, his historical
wager 6
NadburyCamp xiii, 337
Nalton, James, Puritan
rector of Kugby 277
Napoleon I., portraits of 17, 242
Napoleon HI., at Leaming-
ton 7
Nashk, Thomas, marries
Elizabeth Hall, 83 ; pur-
chases property in Hen-
lev Street, 74 ; purchases
" Nash's House," 87 ;
grave of, 99
Neale, Joe, his curious
epitaph 249
Netheewood Heath 212
Newbold Pacey 309
Newsham, Squire, ghost
legend relating to ... 297
New Water 63
Nimrod, at Bilton Hall ... 272
Norfolk, Duke of, his in-
tended duel with Here-
ford, 154 ; stays at Calu-
don Castle, 264
Northampton xii
Northbrook 72
North End 296
Norton Lower 193
Norton LiNDSEY 193
Nottingham, Countess,
alleged to have withheld
a ring sent by Lord
Essex to Queen Elizabeth 322
Nuneaton 260
Nuneham Courteney xxiii
Oakley Wood ... 309, 314, 316
Offa, King of Mercia,
palace of 61
Offchurch 60
Oken, Thomas, benefactor of
vVarwick 41
Olcobiiar, a Celtic chieftain,
probably burled in
Alcock's Arbour 183
411
PAGE.
Oldcastlk, Sir John,
sheltered at Chesterton 306
Old Leys 299
Ophelia, the deatli of,
possibly suggested by
the fate of Margaret
Cloptoa 94
OvERSLEY Bridge 185
Oxford xxlii
OXHILL 312
Packhorse Bridges, 126, 226, 311
,, Road 341
Packingtox Church ... 225
Hall 224
Packwood Church 196
House* 195
Paddington Station... xxii
Panqbourne xxiii
Park Corner 218
Parkes, John, a gladiator,
his curious epitaph ... 142
Park, Queen Catherine,
portraits of ... 174, 178
Parr, William, Marquis of
Northampton, buried
in St. Mary's Church,
Warwick, 43 ; dies at
the Priory, 57
Patrick Bridge 227
Pebworth, the Piping Peb-
worth of the epigram ... 158
Peeping Tom, of Coventry,
150 ; the legend analysed,
156
Peeers, Alice, mistress of
Edward III., receives
the Manor of Compton
Verney 321
Petrifying Spring, at Ligh-
thorne 315
Pettipher, William, hanged
for highway robbery ... 368
Pey'TO Family', at Chesterton 305
PillertonHersey, OR Lower
PiLLERTON, 311, 336;
the village shoemaker
runs off to see the Battle
of Edge Hill, 336
PiLLERTON Priors 312
Pillory, whipping post and
stocks combined, at
Coleshill 228
PiNLEy Priory 205
Pipe, Thomas de. Abbot of
Stoueleigh, accused of
immorality 239
PAGE,
Piper's Bath 315
Pittern Hill 327
Plesiosaurus, line sjiecimen
of, preserved at War-
wick, 55 ; discovered at
Wilmcote, 165
Preston Bagot 195
Princethorpe 270
PuREFOY', Colonel, damages
the Beauchamp Cliapel,
52 ; damages monuments
at Westou - imder -
Weatherley, 267
Quiney, Thomas, marries
Judith Sliakespeare, 83 ;
dies in London, S3 ;
carries on business at
the Cage, 84
QuYNEY, KicHARD, his letter
to Shakespeare 79
Radford (near Coventry) ... 250
Radford Semele ..."^ ... 283
Radley x.xiii
Radway 291, 299
,, Church 329
,, Grange 330
,, Round Tower,
316, 331, 336, 338
Ragley Hall 173
Park 171, 173
Raleigh, Sir Walter, por-
trait of 212
Ratley 337
Reading xxii
Redfen Lane 226
,, Manor House ...226
Red Hill 175, ISO
Red Horse 335, Sltl
RiCH.VRD II., at Coventry 154, 158
RlCH.lRD III., at Warwick, 38 ;
at Kenilworth, 122 ; at
Coventry, 157, 158 ; chair
made from the bedstead
of, 178
Rivers, Earl, said to have
been beheaded at Coven-
try 154
Roade xxi
Robs-^^rt, Amy, buried at
Oxford, xxiii; probably
visits Warwick, 38, 124';
curtain said to be worked
by, 55 ; her history, 123 ;
visits Moreton Morrell,
310
* Mr. Arton allows visitors who present their visithig cards to view the
stables and garden on TuesdnyK, Wednesdays, Thursdays a,\d Fridays irom
2 to 5 p.m. during the summer months.
412
PAGK.
Roche, Walter, master of
the Stratford Gi-rammar
School, a scrivener and
probable employer of
Shakespeare ... 79, 81. 90
RoLLRit'H Stones ... xiv, 364
KooKwoOD, Amurose, gun-
powder conspirator,
rents Clopton House,
103 ; at Dunchurcb, 279
Rotten Bow 197
Rous, JoHX, Chantry Pries(:,
at Guy's Cliff 14
ROWINGTON 206,^07
KuGBi" xxi., 266, ~73
Castle, 277; Holy Trinity
Church, 277 ; Hospital of
St. Cross, 277; St.
Andrew's Church, 276; Sf.
Marie's Churcli, 277 ; St.
Matthew's Churcli, 277;
St.Oswald's Church, 277;
School, 274 ; Temple
Reading Room, 275
Rupert, Prince, at Stratford,
86 ; atWormleighton, 288,
330 ; wheels his cavalry at
Kineton, 299 ; atKineton,
327: at the Battle of Edge
Hill, 330, 331, 333, 334;
escorts Queen Henrietta
Maria to Kineton Vale,
342; portraits of, 29, 31,
272, 323
Rupert's Headland ... 290, 354
Rj-KNIELD Street xiv
Ryto.\-on-Dunsmore 281
Sanders, Lawrence, burnt
tor heresy 151
Sandford Lasher ... sxiii
Satchwell, Benjamin, one
of the founders of the
prosperity of Leaming-
ton... " 2,10
Scotch Army, at Charlecote 69
Scotch Prisoners, at
Coventry 148, 157
Screens, Wh ccatv.ry, at
Long Itchington, 62 ;
15th century, at Strat-
ford, 97 ; at Coventry,
140 ; at Wolverton, 193 ;
at Packwood, 196 ; at
Knowle, 198 ; at Rowing-
ton, 208 ; at Berkswell,
222 ; at Wormleighton,
289; irth cditunj, at
Baddesley, 210
Seagbr, owner of the tallest
pigstye in Europe ... 129 I
page.
Seymour, Queen Jane, por-
traits of ... 174, 323
Shakespeare, Anne, baptism
and death 81
Shakespeare, E d :« u n d,
baptism and death ... 81
Shakespeare, Gilbert,
deed signed by 79 ; bap-
tism and death, 81
Shakespeare, Hamnet,
baptism, 82 ; death, 83
Shakespeare, Henry, his
residence at Snitter-
lield, 160; fails to pay a
debt to Nicholas Lane,
374
Shakespeare, Joan (the
lirst), baptism and
death 81
Shakespeare, Joan (the
second), lives at the
birthplace, 75 ; her
baptism, marriage, and
death, 81 ; her descend-
ants, 75, 76, 81
Shakespeare, John, birth-
place of his wife, 73,
165 ; purchases wool
shoij, 75 ; purchases
birthplace, 75 ; his
parentage, 80 ; marries
JMary Arden, 80;
appointed Constable, 80 ;
Chamberlain, 80 ; Alder-
man, 81 ; High Bailiff,
81; death of, 81 ;
children of, 81 ; licenses
players at Stratford, 89 ;
application for a Coat
of Arms, 69 ; tormented
by Nicholas Lane, 374.
Shakespeare, Judith,
birth, 82 ; marriage and
death, 83 ; her children.
83
Shakespeare, Margaret,
baptism and death ... 81
Shakespeare, R i c h a e d,
baptism and death ... 81
Shakespeare, Susanna.
birth, 82 ; marriage, 83 ;
death, 83, 86 ; at New
Place, 85 ; owns the
wool shop and birth-
place, 75 ; owns New
Place, 86 ; her grave,
100
Shakespeare , William,
plays of, in manuscript,
at "Warwick Castle, 33 ;
INDEX.
413
PAGE.
Shakespeare, William,
probably prosecuted by
Sir Thomas Lucy, 69,
82; his birthplace, 7-1;
attends school, 81 ;
probably assistant to a
scrivener, 31 ; marriage
with Anne Hathaway,
82, 104, 184; birth of
his children, 82 ; goes to
London, 82 ; probably
goes abroad with the
Earl of Leicester's
players, 82 ; shows a
considerable colloquial
knowledge of Danish
and French, 82;
probably returns to
Stratford with the Earl
of Leicester's players,
83, 89 ; death of his son,
Hamnet, 83 ; purchases
New Place, 85, 85 ; his
daughter, Judith,
marries Thomas Quiney ,
83 ; his daughter,
Susanna, marries Dr.
Hall, 83 ; dies at New
Place, 85 ; possibly at
one time a schoolmaster,
90 ; monument of, 97 ;
probably attends the
festivities at Kenil-
worth, 124; lays the
scene of the Induction
of " The Taming of
the Shrew," at Wilm-
cote, 165 ; and probably
at C 1 o p t o n, 104;
erroneously conjectured
to have been married
at Luddington, 167 ;
said to have slept
imder a crab-tree, near
Bidford, 169 ; and to
have caroused at the
Falcon Inn, 170;
probably married at
Temple Grafton. 184;
probably views the
EoUrich Stones, 366 ;
portraits of, 33, 77, 79,
80, 84 ; busts of, 67, 97
Shakespeare's Ceab-trek... 169
PAGE.
Shakespeare Hall 208
Shaw, Julius, the friend of
Shakespeare 87
Sheldox, Ralph, the " Great
Sheldon," at Weston,
359 ; his burial, 361
Shenstone, William, edu-
cated at Solihull ... 201
Sheppeetox, in Mr. Gilfil's
Love Story, identical
with Chilvers Coton ... 261
Sherborne 71
SiDDoxs, Mrs., at Guy's Cliff,
17 ; marriage at Coven-
try, 145; portraits of, 16, 33
Sillesbourne 161
SixoDux Hill xxiii
Sly, Christopher, the scene
of his debauch 165
Smith, .Iohn, Junior, hanged
for highway robbery ... 368
Smyth, Johx, Royalist Master
Gunner, imprisoned at
Warwick 35
SSITTERFIELD 73, 150
SsooK, James, highwayman,
grave of xx
Solihull 199
SoMEHViLE, William, the
poet, his grave 189
80UTHAM ... 62, £S4, 307
South Farm Z5G
SowE 264
Sow, River xiii, 245, 247, 281
Spexcer, Sir John, dis-
approves of the atten-
tions of Lord Compton
to his daughter 353
Stanley, Dean, at Rugby,
276 ; monument to, 275
Stare Bridge 245
STIVICHALL or STyVECH.4.LE
127, 248
Stocks, at Coventry, 131 ; at
Haselor, 185; at Wrox-
all, 218; at Berkswell,
221; at Coleshih, 228; at
Stoneleigh, 239 ; at Dun-
church,279; at Uf ton, 2S3
Stoke 264
Stoxebridse 227
Stone Building ... 73, I'JU
Stoneleigh Abbey* xiv, 238
„ Church ... 245
* Permission is granted to view the chief portions of the Abbey during
the absence of thc/umili/ which usually occurs from the middle of May to
the middle of July. Visitors are allowed to walk or drive through both
parks on vxcic days only, at all hours between simrise and sunset,
■jirovidcd they kcip to the carriafferoudi and do not seilc to pass through tht
jate/ioi'.-se leading to the Abbey.
414
PAGE.
Stoneythorpe 283
Storm, G-heat, of 1703,
effectsof 269
Stoughtox, Family, at War-
wick 22, 23
Btour, River xiii
Stkafford. Earl of, por-
traits of 29,243
Steatford-ox-Avox. xiv,
xxii, 74, 166, 186 ;
Almshouses, 90 ;
Ancient House. 84 ;
Avon Bank, 92 ; Ban-
croft Garden, 92 ; Birth-
place, 74 ; Cage, 84 ;
Clopton Bridge, 102 ;
Clopton House, xv., 74,
103, 166; College, 101 ;
Fountain, 102; Grammar
Scliool, 89 ; Guild
Chapel, 87 ; Guild Hall,
88 ; Hall's House, 101 ;
Hathawav's House. 87;
Holy Trinilv Church,
92; Hospital, 103;
Memorial Buildings and
Tlieatre, 90 ; Museum,
78 ; >'ash's House, 86 ;
New- Place, 85; Shaw's
Rous?, 87 ; Shottery
(Anne Hathaway's Cot-
tage), 104, 167; Town
Hall, 84
Stratford, loirs de, builds
aisle of Stratford
Church 93
Stratford, Egbert de,
builds the Guild Hall... 88
Strettox-ox-Dl-xsmore ... 270
SuDBURi' xix
Suffolk, Duke of, his
hiding place and
betraval, at Astley ... 254
SuLGRAVE "Church xxii, 369
„ Maxor House ... 371
Sutton 356
SuTTOX, AxxA Maria
Fraxces a>t) Diana,
window to commemo-
rate 1
SwiLLY-NGTOx, Ralph,
Recorder of Coventry,
his tomb 139
Tables inlaid with valuable
stones at Warwick, 28,
29 ;at Charlecote, 67
Tachbrook Bishop's (see
Bishop's Tachbrook)
Tachbrook Mallory ... 308
PAGE.
Taming of The Shrew,
scene of Christopher
Slv's debauch, 165 ;
picture of the scene by
Smirke, 360
Tapestry, at Warwick, 30 ;
at Coventry, 131, 132 ;
at Coughtbn, 179 ; at
Compton Verney, 323
Templars, the Knights found
a Preceptorv at Temple
Balsall, 2'18 ; own
property at Tysoe, 342
Temple Balsall ... xv, 218
Temple Graftox 184
Temple Tysoe 342
TexxysoxLord, and Godiva 128
Thackeray', W. M., intro-
duces Leamington in
the " Fatal Boots," and
" Dennis Haggarty's
Wife" 10
Thames, River... xxii, xxiii
Thelsfobd 64
Thickthokx House, .. 107
Thistle Farm... 328, 331, 338
Thorpe Maxdeville 373
Three Gates 310
Throckmortox, Sir Nicho-
las, Ambassador of
Queen Elizabeth, 178 ;
portraits of, ] 78
TiDDIXGTOX 63, 70
Tomer JoYXE,curious epitaph
on 267
ToTXESS, George Caekw,
Earl of, owner of CIod-
ton House, 104 ; his
tomb. 95
Trafford Bridge 367
Treen," Billy," an old miser,
his epitaph 59
Trees, remarkable : Acacia, att
Walton, 320; Ash, at
Snitterfield, 160; Birch,
at Snitterfield, 160 ;
tW'a/-, at Warwick, 29,30;
at Lighthorne, 315 ; at
Walton, 320; Chu<fnut,at
Offcharch, 61 ; at Leam-
ington Hastings, 268 ;
Ci-a>), about Binton, 167 ;
about Alcester, 186 ;
lime, at Snitterfield, 160 ;
Malberrii, at Stratford,
101; at Loxley, 320;
Oak, at Snitterfield, 160 ;
at Packwood, 196 ; at
Stoneleigh, 239 ; near
Oakley Wood, 309 ;
INDEX.
415
PAGE.
Tbees, remarkable : Ouk at
Bowshot, 310 ; ChiliVs
O'd-, 226 ; Goapcl Oaks,
20, 165, 226, 247 ; Pernj
Pear, about Aston Cant-
low, Bearley and Wilm-
cote, 165 ; about Binton,
167 ; about Alcester, 186 ;
Plane, at Styvecliale,
248 ; Siicamorc', at Edge
Hill, 341 ; WaUut, about
Snltterfield, 165 ; at
Corley, 251 ; Ycic, at
8nitterfield, 160 ; at Wix-
ford, 171 ; at Baddesley,
210 ; at Berkswell, 223 ;
at Meriden, 224 ; at
Fillongley, 253 ; at Leam-
ington Hastings, 268 ;
at Wormleighton, 290
Thing xx
Triptych, curious, at Alcester 163
TuTBUEY Laxe 266
TWYFOED xxii
Tyler, Margaret, does public
penance 368
Ty'NBMOutii .John of, miracle
at LongCompton related
by 362
TysOE, 313, 323, 329, 336, 341
,, Church 342
,, Parish Clerk, at the
Battle of Edge Hill 336
Ufton '^S3, 307
Upper Tysoe 342,344
Cpton (near Alcester) 185
Upton House (Edge Hill) ... 338
Vanbrugh, Sir John, por-
trait of 272
Vaeney, or Verney, Sir
EiCHARD, the original
of the character in
Scott's novel 325
V'ictoria, Queen, at Leam-
uigton,6; at Warwick, 39;
at Stoneleigh Abbey, 245
Walcote 185
Walker, Sir Edward, pur-
chases the Clopton pro-
perty, 86, 103; histomb,
95
Walpole, Horace, at Strat-
ford, 74 ; at Ragley, 172 ;
portrait of, 174
Walpole, Sir Kobert, por-
trait of 175
Walsgrave-on-Sowe 264
Walton Church 321
,, Hall 320
Wapenbuey 268
page.
Ward, Joan, burnt for heresy 151
Warden Hill 367
Warmington, 291, 317, 331, 337
,, Church ... 317
,, Manor House 318
Waenefoed, Dr., founder of
the hospital at Leam-
ington 10
Warwick 22
Beauehamp Chapel, 45 ;
Bridgeover the Avon, 21;
Castle, xiv, 23 ; County
Hall, 56 ; Court House,
39; East Crate, 22;
Historical Notes on the
Castle, 37; Jury Street,
39; Kendall, Mr.
(Atelier of), 58 ; King's
School, 21 ; Leycester
Hospital, XV, 53; Mus-
eum, S6; Priory, 57; Race
Course, 58 ; Saltisford,
57 ; St. James's Chapel,
55 ; St. John's Hospital,
22 ; St. Mary's Church,
40 ; St. Michael's
Church, 58 ; St. Nicho-
las's Church, 22 ; St.
Peter's Chapel, 22 ; West
Gate, 55
Warwickshire Reforma-
tory- FOR BoY's 268
Washington, George, at
Wormleighton 290
Washington, Laurence,
grave of, at Sulgrave ... 369
Washington, Robert, at
Wormleighton 290
Washington Pamily, manor
house of, at Sulgrave,
371 ; pedigree of, 372
Wasperton 65
Wateegall 286
Watford xix
Watling Street xiv
Wedgnock Park 19, 118, S07
Weedon xxii
Welcombe 75
,, Obelisk, 73, 74, 166, 167
Wellesbourne Hastings ... 319
,, mountford 319
Welford 167
Welsh Lane 367
,, Road 328
Westbourne Paek ... xxii
Westcote 299, 335
West Dray'ton ... xxii
Westmorland, Lord, runs
away with Miss Sarah
Child ... ... ... 339
416
PAGE.
Westox House (Northants) 372
,, (Warwick-
shire) ... XV, 359
Wkstox Park 359
westox-rxder-weatherlet 2g7
Whatcote 312
Whichford 358
Whitchurch ... xxiii
Whitley Abbev: 281
„ Common 282
Whitnash 300
AVhittixgton, Sir Richard,
reputed to have been
born at Long Compton 363
WiQLEi- Wood 309
WiLLEN'HALL 281
WiLLES, Edward, Chief Baron
of Irish Excliequer,
monument of 2
WiLLES, Edward, benefactor
of Leamington ... 5, 12
William III., at Warwick, 30 ;
atCoventry,158; married
and crowned by Comp-
ton, Bishop of London,
353 ; portrait of, 133
Willis, Richard, ancestor of
N". P. Willis, grave of, at
Fenny Compton 292
WiLMCOTE ... 73,^65,186
WiNDERXON 355
Wixdsor Castle ... xxii
PAGE.
Wise, Henry, purchases
Priory at Warwick ... 57
Wise, Johx, inlierits property
at Leamington 12
Witchcraft, belief in, in
villages in the Vale of
Kineton 363
WlXFORD 17C
WoLSTAx, St., a native of
Long Itchington ... 62
WOLSTOX 280
WoLVERCOTE xxiii
WoLVERTOX (Bucks) xxi
(Warwick) ... 193
WOMBWELL, William, killed
by an elephant 152
Woodward, Richard, raises
a troop of horse for King
Charles 311
WooTTON Wawex Church ... 187
Hall ... 187
Wormleightox Chuuch ... 289
,, Maxor House,
xiv, 286, 330, 367
WOR>nVOOD SCRUBBS ... xxii
Wren, Sir Christopher,
purchases Wroxall ... 215
Wroxall Abbey-, 215 ; curious
legend of the foundation
of 215
York, Edmund, Duke of, his
tomb xix
Frank Glover, Printer, "Coueier" Office, Leamington.
HOTELS, DIRECTORY,
TARIFF,
AND
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS.
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS.
Trade.
Name.
Place.
Page.
Auctioneers
Locke
Leamington
32*
Margetts and Sons
Warwick
48
Whittendale and Dj'er
Coventry ...
50
Williamson and Co. ...
Leamington
36
Bakers
Overton
...
41
Bennett
II •..
41
Baths jRoyal Pump Rooms ...
Bicycle Manufactu-
"
17
rers Humber and Co.
Beeston, Notts.
55
|Smith and Co
Coventry
51
Booksellers Cunnew
Leamington
31
Kennard
II •••
35
Bootmaker
Davis
...
34
Builders
Bailey
II ••■
40
Bowen
II
37
Dawkes
...
43
Pratt
,,
44
Builders' Material,
dealers in
Harridence
11
41
Lewis
II
47
Butcher
Baier
...
40
Pork ...
Burbury
...
46
Carriage Manu-
facturer Kay
...
44
Chemists County Drug Stores ...
II
34
Loveitt
Coventry
50
Sansom
Leamington
42
[Smith and Son
...
43
Coal Merchant ... HorswiU
44
Confectioners ... Goodman
43
Watson
45
CarriageProprietors
Jones Bros
Lynton, B". Devon
25
McGregor
Leamington
16
Walby
II
16
Woodward
Stratford-on-Avon
2C
Dentist
Fletcher
Coventry
50
Drapers and Mil-
liners
Bond
Leamington
41
Brown
38
Francis and Sons
33
Greet
...
40
Lacey and Da vies
40
Meredith
II
39
Peerless
45
Dyer and Cleaner ...
Stratton
II
46
INDEX TO ADVERTISEES. — Continued.
Trade.
Estate Agents
Name.
Hutton
Locke
Margetts andlBons
Whittendale and Dyer
Fancy Goods, dealer
in Wamsloy
Florists Perkins
Wilson
Furniture Dealers... Bullard
Xane and Co.
Williamson and Co.
Furniture Removers Mousell Bros. ...
Furrier Graves
Gas Fitter Batchelor
Green Grocer ... Franklin
Grocer ..; ... Harris
Gunsmith IBatchelor
Harness Manu-
facturers Thomas
Hotels Bowlinij Green ...
Bull's Head
Crown
Euston
Fountain
George-in-the-Tree
Golden Lion
Manor House
Old Red Lion ...
Priory Mansions
Private Hotel ...
Railway Hotel ...
jRed Lion
j Saddler's Arms ...
Stoneleigh Arms
Washington
Jewellers 'Chandler
iKennett
Lambert
Monumental MasoniElliott
Newspaper Coui-kr
Picture Dealers ... White
Williamson and Co.
Picture Restorers ... Hol.yoake and Coates ...
White
Photographers ...Bullock and Co
Portmanteau Manu-
facturer 'Robinson
Printers 'Art and Book Co.
Y-'oonirr Printing Works
Railways 'Chemins de fer de
I rOuest
'East and West Junction
London, Brighton, and
I South Coast
Refreshment Rooms The Castle
Castle Green
Warwick
Leamington
Warwick
Coventry
Leamington
Warwick
Stratford-on-Avon.,
Leamington
I Stratford-on-Avon.,
I Warwick
Meriden
Leamington
I Stratford-on-Avon.,
JBerkswell ..
Stratford-on-Avon.
Leamington
'Stratford-on-Avon.
Bournemouth
Rugby
Berkswell ... ,
Banbury
Solihull
Leamington
Warwick
London
Warwick
Leamington
Warwick ...
Kenilworth ...
INDEX TO ADAEBTISEBS. — Continued,
Trade
Name.
Place.
Page.
Scheols
The College
College HouseLadies' ...
Leamington
26
School
Coventry
29
Collegiate School
Leamington
28
Comber House
»t »•.
28
Grammar School
V\'ar\\ ick
27
High School (Girls) ...
„
27
Kindergarten
Leamington
28
Middle School
Warwick
27
Oak House
Leamington
2?
Tailors
Claxton and Son
...
33
Timber Merchant...
Lewis
47
Tubular Bell Manu-
facturers
ffarrington and Latham
Coventry
51
VeterinarySurgeons
Crowhurst
Leamington
47
Horton
Warwick
49
Watch Manufactu-
rer
Horley
Coventry
SO
Wine Merchants ...
Johnson
Leamington
32
Magrath and Co.
II
30
Watts and Co
„
46
DIRECTORY OF CONVEYAXCES, HOTELS, AND
OTHER LOCAL INFORMATION.
4f% A considerable effort has been made at some cost and labour to
obtain tl.e tariffs of Hotels, Conveyances, &c., for the guidance of
travellers. The results, nevertheless, have been meagre. If, however
travellers will co-operate in the matter by sending particulars of those
€stablishments where they find the charges reafonable and the treat-
ment agreeable, as well as of those in which the charges appear
excessive or the treatment inferior, it will be possible in a future
issue to furnish trustworthy information on the subject.
The sign (t) means that applications for information have been
fruitless.
ALCESTEK.
Population, 2,406.
Omsibus meets the trains ; fare 3d.
Ixxs.— Globe (t). Swan rt).
Fairs.— Tuesday before and Tuesday after Michaelmas.
Market Day.— Tuesday.
Police Station.— Henley Street.
BALSALL.
I>x.— George in the Tree (advt. p. 22
BAXBURT.
POPCLATIOX, 12,822.
Omnibuses mett all trains at both Stations, fare 6d.
f LYS.— From Red Lion Hotel, Is. per mile, half fare for the return
journev. To ,v, ,/,„■,<,■, and back, 12s. To £</;/<; HiU and back,
12s. To VuH,pU,,> ^V ,1 ,r,i„_b .i and back, 13s. 6d. ; in each case
exclusive of gratuity to driver, which should be arranged before-
hand (Is. to ?s. sufficient).
Ixxs —Red Lion Hotel (tariff p. 12, advt. p. 24). White Horse Hotel
(t), White Lion Hotel (t).
CoKFECTiONERS. — i''J^s High Street; Clarkhie, Parsons Street
(Banbury Cakes a speciality).
Post Ofuice.- High Street. '
Fairs.— First Thursday after old 12th day. First Thursday after
old Michaelmas day.
Market Day-.— Thursday.
BERKSWELL.
I.VN.— Railway Hotel (advt. p. 22)
BIDFORD.
IXNS.— Pleasure Boat (t), White Lion (t)
COLESHILL.
Population, 2,356.
Fly from the Tliree Horse Shoes meets the trains a Forge Mill
Station (Im. distant). Fare 4d. each.
Inns.— Swan (t), Three Horse Shoes (t)
Confectioner.- Williams, High Street.
Fair. — Monday before Shrove Tuesday,
Market Day.'— Wednesday.
6 DIRECTORY OF CONVEYANCES, &c.
COVENTRY.
Population, 52,720.
Omnibuses meet every train; fare 6d. without luggage.
Cabs. — Bji VUtniici: within five miles of the Post Office, not
exceeding one mile (for tsvo persons) is., three or more persons
Is. 6d. ; for each succeeding half mile or part tliereof for any
lumiber of persons 6d. ; the return journey, if made without dis-
cliarguig the carriage, to be charged lialf the above rates. ]iy Time
not exceeding one hour 2s. 6d. ; tor each succeeding 15 minutes or
part thereof 6d. ; betsveen midnight and 6 a.m. a fare and a half
is charged. l\'aifii>[/ Time: Ten minutes free, for every fifteen
minutes over and above 6d. Engaging a carriage and not using
it, Is.
Inns.— Craven Arms Hotel (tariff p. 12) ; King's Head Hotel
(t); Queen's Hotel (t); Three Tuns Hotel (t).
Refbeshment Rooms.— )('/■(■;//(/, 68, Smithford Street (t); Mason,
17 and 18, Earl Street (t).
Confectioners— ICcs/, 58, Cross Cheaping ; ShiUcocl, 21, Hertford
Street; Haaco.:-, 28, Burges.
Public Baths. — Hales Street. 1st Class Swimming Bath 6d. ; 1st
Class Private Bath, Warm, 6d. ; Cold 3d.
Reading Boom.— T^/v- Pahlic Libmr;!, St. Michael's Church Yard.
Clubs.— C'oy!Ni/-cn^')-(, Broadgate; Ihrtfni-il, Hertford Street ; Lihendy
Union Street; i>/«7)'r»' (professional), St. Michael's Church Yard.
Post Office.— Smithford Street. 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Banks.— i'"i'''-',; (nxt Mi'iln,,,!. i, Little Park Street; Binainfihom
Di-ftiid iiiiii Coi'iitli.^, 2, Smithford Street ; lloi/il's. High Street.
Fairs. — May 1, AVhitsun Monday, November 1.
Market Day. Friday.
Police Station.— St. Mary's Street.
Placfs of Amusement. — JS'nr Opa-d Hovm. Prices: Dress
Circle, Is. ; Orchestra Stalls, 3s. ; Second Circle, 2s. ; Pit Stalls,
Is. 6d. ; Pit, Is, Empire jSU'fic HaU. Jiicrcation Groii,>il at The
Butts, containing cricket and football grounds, and a bicycle
track.
Teamway. — (,Sf((im). To Bedwortli ; fare 5d.
Omnibuses.- To Bell Green ; fare 3d.
DUNCHURCe.
Population, 1,313.
Inn.— Dun Cow (t).
Fairs. — November 15, 16.
EDGE HILL (see Radway).
EMSCOTB.
Inn.— Portobello (for boats on the Avon).
FENNY COMPTON.
Inn. — George and Dragon, Fenny Compton Wharf (t).
Flys. — Is. per mile, and 6d. per mile back fare. To i'i'/,'//'((Yand
back, 20s. To li'i'jij Hid and back, 10s. A day's notice required.
HARBURY.
Omnibus toSoutham : Fare, Is. ; return. Is. 6d.
HENLEY-IN-ARDE N.
Population, 1,043.
O.MNinus, at 9 a.m., to Eearley Station, returning from Bearley at
11-0 a.m., fare each way Is.
Fly's. — From White Swan Is. per mile. To Bearley, 43.
Inns.— Bear (t). White Swan (t).
Fairs.— March 25, October 11 and 29.
DIRECTORY OP CONVEYANCES, &c. 7
KENILWORTH.
POPULATIOX, 4,173.
Omnibuses meet the trains ; fares to the Castle 6d. each.
Flys.— No fixed tariff.
Inns.— King's Arms Hotel (tariff p. 12) -, Abbey Hotel (tariff p. 12).
REFRESHMiiXT ItuoM.—The Castle Green, opposite the Ruins (tariff
p. 13, advt. p. 25,\
Admission to Castle.— 6d each person.
Faibs. -April 29, last Tuesday in September.
North Warwickshire Hounds (bO couples).— ^(/''^'/i in Roimsel
Lane. HinitiiKj l>n;/i: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and
alternate Fridays.
KINETON.
Population, 1,021.
Plys from dsvaii Hotel, Is. per mile, and 6d. per mile back fare. To
Ra/lic(u/ and back (including driver), 53. 6d. To Cmiipton Wyiiiiates
and back (including driver), 12s. 6d.
In.vs.— Red Lion (tariff p. 12), Swan (tariff p. 12).
Fairs.— February 5, October 2.
Warwickshire Hounds c53 couples). — KanneU aX Little Kineton.
Hi'oJiii'j Day.-i: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday.
Stekple-chases. — Beginning of April.
KNOWLE.
Population, 1,818.
Omnibus meets the trains, fare 6d. (station Ijm. distant).
Flys.— From the ]?orest Stables, Is. per mile. To Kao/cle, from the
station. Is. 6d.
Inns.- (Iii tlie town) (Jreswolde Arms (t), Red Lion (t). (At the
station) Forest (t).
LEAMINGTON SPA.
Populatiox, 26,930.
C.\.BS. — Jii/ il istitac: within five miles of tlie Parish Cliurch, not
exceeding one mile for two persons Is., for three or more persons
Is. 6d.. for each succeeding hall mile 6d. (packages ot luggage
carried outside 2d. eacli e.xtra). lii/ tiiuf, the first hour 2s. 6d.,
each succeeding half hour Is. Double fares are chargeable
between miduiglit and 6 a.m. ]\'(i'iti,\[i Time, the first five
minutes without extra cliarge, fir every succeeding ((uarter of an
hour 6d. Engaging a carriage _and not using it, 6d.
Hath Chairs.— For eacli half liolir 6d.
Inns.— Avenue liotel (tariff p. 12), Bath Hotel (t), Clarendon
Hotel (tarilf p. 12). Crown Hotel (.tariff p. 12, advt. p. 19),
Euston Hotel (tariff p. 12, advt. p. 23), Manor House
Hotel (tariff p. 12, advt. p. 23), Itegent Hotel (t), Stoneleigh
Arms Hotel (advt. p. 23), Washington Hotel (tariff p. 12,
advt. p. 23).
BoAHDiNG Housics.— Langton House, Leam Terrace (Mrs. Phillips),
Richmondville, Spencer Street.
Rkkukskment Rooms. — Cafe Orientale, Parade; Powell Bros.,
146, Parade.
Confectioni:rs. -Bi ii,iiII, 52, Regent Street ; (iooihnaii, 123, Regent
Street ; U'cJmih, U, Gloucester Street.
Jon AND Post-IvIastkr.— IFK/'-i^, Binswood Mews; McGnijor, Bath
Mews.
8 DIRECTORY OF CONVEYANCES, &r.
LEAMINGTON SPA— <:'o-'^'/ii'c<'.
Baths. — Royal Pump Room. Si^hKudn;/ Bath for eentlemen 6d.
each; for ladies 6d. each (twelve tickets fs.) TviLixl, Bath, Z a.m.
to 5 p.m., 2s. ; 5 p.m. to 7 p.m , Is. 6d. (reserved for ladies
exclusively on Tuesdays). SKliiic ami Fresh U'atir Bitth^ : Kot or
cold bath (saline or fresh water), 1st class, 2s. each; ditto, 2nd
class, Is. each ; ditto, 3rd class, 6d. each ; deep imniersion bath
(saline or fresh watery, 2s. 6d. each; reclining bath with douche
or shower (saline or fresh water), 3s. Sd. each ; douche or shower
bath (saline or fresh water) 1st class, 2s. each ; ditto, 2nd class. Is.
6d. each ; needle, vapour, sitz, and special baths. 2s. each ; pine
and sulphur baths (saline or fresh water), 1st class, 3s. each;
ditto, 2nd class, 2s. ; ditto, 3rd class. Is. 8d. S]"':i(il Attt.uhinr. .
viz. : rubbing, packing, shampooing, massage, etc., by bath
attendants, with a,))i bath. Is. extra. Any bather occup3'in£ the
bath-ro"Dm more than one hour is charsred Is. extra, as for
special attendance. Open-air Sirimming Bath, New River Walk :
Admission, ^d.
READixa Room. — Free Public Liljrary, New Town Hall.
Clubs. — hamiirntoii, 3, Parade;' Teanis Court, 50, Bedford
Street ; Bnrou<ih Ciu'i, Regent Grove ; Coiixerratirt Club, Warwick
Street ; LiticrcU Club, Regent Grove.
Post-Office.— Next Victoria Biidge,6-r0 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Baxks.— Xo/i.^on awl Midlna'l, 126,. Paiade; Howls', 73, Parade;
MJropolifan, Birmiiuihuir, anjl Soi'th Walts, 33, Parade.
Theatre Royal. — Regent Grove. Prices: Balcony and Orchestra
Stalls, 4s. : Second Circle, 2s. 6d. ; Reserved Pit, 2s. ; Upi-er Circle,
Is. 6d.; Pit, Is.
Steeple-chases.— In March.
Police Station-.— Old Town Hall.
Jephsox Gardens —Admission, for the day 3d. each ; for one
person, one week. Is. Gd. ; one montii,4s. ; three months, 7s. 6d. ;
one j'Car, 10s. 6d.': for a family, one week, 3s. ; one month, 7s. ;
three months, 14s. : one year, 2is.
Pump Rooms.— Family subscriptions : One year, 15s. ; six months,
10s. 6d. ; three months, 7s. 6d. ; one month, 5s. ; one week, 4s.
Single subscriution : one year, 10s. 6d. ; six months, 7s. 6d. ;
three months, is. ; one month, 3s. ; one week. Is. The Pump
Room is supplied with daily and weekly pacers for the nse of
subscribers. Joint tickets for Pump Room and Jeishson Gardens
are issued to visitors at the following reduced rates: Three
months, family tickets 15s., single ticket 8s.; one month, family-
tickets 8s., single ticket £s. ;_one week, family tickets 5s., single
ticket Is. 6d.
Halls.— ieowf^ Mu.^lc Hall mid Assaahly Rooms, Bath Street; Pobllr
Hall, Windsor Street.
Tramway to Warwick every half hour from 8-45 to 10-15 a.m , and
then at intervals varying from about 10 to 20 minutes up to 9-20
p.m., afterwards at 10-15 and 10-30 p.m. ; Sundays 10.15 a.m. and
every half hour from 1-45 to 9-45 p.m.; fare all the way 3d.
Coaches. — During the season, from Juneto September, to stratfor'i-
OA-Aroii rid Charlecote daily except Saturday and Sunday;
to Corentry rid Guy's Cliff and Kenilworth, returning
through Stoneleigli Park, twice a week. Fares : Box seat,
7s. 6d. ; facing horses, Es. ; back to horses, 5s.; inside, 3s. 6d.
Starting from the Town Hall at 11-15 a.m., and returning from
Stratford or Coventry at 4 p.m. Booking Office: 104, Parade.
DIRECTORY OF COXVErANC£:S, &c. 9
LEAMINGTOX UFA— Co, it in, :fi..
Boats. — For Boatuuj oii tin: Liiiiti, obtainable at the Mill, Leam
Terrace. Tariff, Is. lirst lioiir, and 6d. for each succeeding liom.
For Buiitiiiti Oil tin: Arod, obtainable at the Porlo Bello Tavern,
Eniscote. Tariff, the first hour, family- boats, 2s.; boat to carry five
persons. Is. 6d. ; to carry three persons. Is. ; canoes, 9d. ; skiffs,
6d. ; tidiing punts, 6d. (or 2s. per day) ; for each succeeding
hour, lialf the foregoing rates.
MABrON.
Ixy.— Blaclt Horse.
O.MXIBLS to Southam at 8 a m., 12-45 p.m., 6-23 ji.th. (Sundays
e.xcepted) ; fare Is.
MERIDKN.
Inn.— Bull's Head Hotel and Posting House (tariff p. 13 advt. p. 2).
IsUNEATOX.
POPCL.iTION, 11,539.
Omnibus meets all trains at the Midland Station ; at the 1j. and
N.-VV. Station by appointment only. Fare, 6d.
Flys. - No fi.xed tariff.
Inns.— Bull (t); Newdegate Arms (t).
C'oxFECTioNKR.— ro."(//, Abbey Street.
Fair.— May 14.
Market Day.— Saturday. ,
Police Station. — Stratford Street.
RADWAY fEDGE HILL).
Inn.- Castle (t).
RUGBY.
Population, 11,262.
Omnibus meets the trains ; fare 6d.
Cabs. — By <ti<tanr,: : Per mile Is., per lialf mile afterwards 6d., not
exceeding five miles out ; back fares lialf tljese rates ; In/ limi: : half-
an-hour only Is. 6d., first hour 2s. 6d., per lialf-hourafierwards Is.
From tin: t^tiitiod to tin tonn, or vice rirsct, for two persons, Is. ; for
each additional person, 6d. From cue part of the toirii to any otinr
j"(/'^, for each person, 6d. Mditiiuj 2'aiie : If detained more tlian
Jilteen minutes and not exceeding thirty minutes, 6d. ; for each
succeedint; fifteen minutes, 6cl.
Inns.— Rugby Private Hotel, Albert Street (tariff p. 13, advt. p. 21);
Horse Shoes (t) ; Ro^ al George ( t;.
Rki-keshment Rooms.— //o'-/.-/, 18, High Street (t) ; Cnmphdl Cojyt
T'(,cr,i, Church Street (t;; 'li'.xtntuaat, Railway Xerrace (t).
Confectioners.— i/o/;/.//, 18, High street ; Groococic, 25, High Street.
RE.A.DINC; Room.— Institute, Town Hall.
Post Office.— 16, Market Place; 63.0 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Banks.— i/oi/.?*', Church Street; Sational Prorinci,,/, Church Street.
Fairs.— C«»'' .- Last Monday in January, February 17, last Monday
iu March, last Monday in April, May 15, last Monday in Jime and
July, August 21, Monday before September 29, Monday before
October 27, November 22, Tuesday, December 21, first Monday
after Cliristmas Day. MurthinniK Hirmi' : November 16 to 2i'.
Cln'nr : Wednesday before Easter, last Wednesday in September.
Market Day. ^Saturday.
Police Statioji. —Plowman Street.
SNITTERPIELD.
Inn. -White Horse (t).
10 DIRECTORV OF CONVEYANCES, &c.
SOLIHULL.
PoPLLATIOX, 6,160.
Flys.— No fixed tariff Is. per mile generally. From tlie Station to
tlie town. Is.
I.ws. — George (tariff p. 13) ; Saddlers' Arms (tariff p. 13,
advt. p. 24)
SOl'THAM.
POPLLATEOX, 1,759»
Omxibis (on week days only) to Marten Station (L. &N.W.T?.)three
times daily, fare Is. ; to Harbury Station (G.W.E.) to meet
most trains, fare Is., return ls.6d.
Fj.ys. — No fixed tariff, to Harbury Station 2s. 6d., to Marton.
Station, 4s.
Ixxs.— 13iill (f). Craven Arms (t).
8TKATFORD-OX-AVON.
POl'lLATIOX, 8,313.
0>rxiin.s meets the trains ; fare 6d.
Flys.— No fixed tariff. Usual charge to the town for one person. Is.,
and 6d. extra for each additional person.
Ixxs. -Golden Lion Hotel, Bridge Street (tariff' p. 13, advt.
p. 20); Old Ked Lion Hotel, tariff p. 13, advt. p. 24);
Fountain Hotel (Temperance) (tariff p. 13, advt. p. 18) ; Red
Horse Htitel (t), Shakespeare Hotel (t).
Rkfrksh.mkxt liooyK. —F'U'ittarii //«>f<7, Rothsr Street (tariff p. 13);
C»fl,:,_ PuloM, Bridge Street.
CoxFECTioNER —^i.iitli, 9, Chapel Street.
Clib. — Uitioii, Chapel Lane.
Post Ofiice.— 52, Henley Street.
Basks.— M'tropolitan, BiniiinijUam, and South IVak^, Chapel Street;
Lloi/ih\ Bridg-j Street.
Fairs.— The day after old Michaelmas and the Friday week
following.
Market i)A\-.— Friday.
PuncE Statiox". — Town Hall.
Places of IsTKSMST.—Jiirthphict, open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. in
simimer; admission 6d.. Museum 6d. extra. iVt*'- Place GunUn,
free during summer moutlis. Mi'setuu, admission 6d. IMv
TrinHii Church, admiss^ion 6a. Shahenpeare Mcncorlnl Thmtn,
Pk-tvrr GalliT)/, Toirir, Librani, and Groumh, open 10 to 6 in
summer, and in winter till dusk ; admission 6d.
Boats ox the Rivek.— Obtainable at the Swan's Ifest, Bridge-
town. The first hour. Is. ; each succeeding hour 6d.
Stei:pi.e-chase.s.— In April.
TEMPLE BALSALL (see BALSALL).
TYSOE.
Ixx.— Peacock (t).
WAllWICK.
Populatiox, 11,905.
Tramway from L. & N. W. Station direct to the town ; fare, 3d.
Omnibus from the hotels to meet trains ; fare 6d. each (luggage
extra).
Cabs.— £(/ <iista,ici: is. for the first mile, and 6d. for each succeeding
mile (not including driver) ; from tlie L. ■& N. \V. Station to the
town 2s., drivtr 6d. ; from the G.\V. Station to the town Is.,
driver ed. By tinu 3s. per hour.
Ix.NS.- Bowlina Green Hotel (tariff p. 13, advt. p 21), Warwick
Arms Hotel (t), Woolpack Hotel (t).
DIRE3T0RY OP CONVEYANCES, &r. H
WARWICK— Crt,i//-f wed.
Refreshmknt 'Roosi.—Cmtk, Smith Street (tariff p. 13, advt. p. 25).
CoNFiiCTiONtR.— WooUison, 11, Cliiiroli Street.
Reading 'Rooyi.—Frie Piihiic Lihrary, Cliiircli Street.
Race Mkktings are lield the second week in February (two days)>
April (two days), September (two days), and November (three
days.)
Post Office. — Old Square, 7 a.m. to 9. p.m.
Banks.— io,('^oii and iliiiimiJ, Church Street ; Llo)/d\^, Market Place i
M'iropolitan, Binuiniihutic <i,iil Sfn'th lf'((7c.-i, High Street.
Fairs.— October 12 and Monday before St. Tliomas's Day.
Market Day.— Saturday.
Police Station. — Barrack Street.
Places of Interest.— fvw'^', open 10.0a.m. to 3.30 p.m., admission
Is. ; Ticket Office iu Mill Street. Jlranr/Knn/i fhdpcl, admission 3d.
each person, but no less fee tlian6d.; Liirixto- HnspitnA (gratuity
to Porter). Masnuit, Market Place, admission 3d.
Brake tci Sfrat'ord-oti-Aron fin Sherborne on Mondays, Wednesdays
and Fridays during the summer montlis commencing in June.
Starting from the Tramway Depot, Coten End, Warwick, at 10-45
a.m., and returning froni Stratford '/(( Charleeote at 4 p.m.
Passengers from Leamington start by tram at 10 15 a.m. To
^'oci/j//// on Wednesdays returning at 4 p.m. tlirough Stoneleigh
Park. Return tickets in eacli^ instance 3s. (tram fares from
Leamington included).
Tramway to Loujiinijtoa every half hour from 8.0 to 9.30 a.m., and
afterwards at intervals varying from about 10 to 20 minutes up
to 8.10 p.m., and then at 9.36 and 10. p.m. ; ,S*'/('^','/.s at 9.30 a.m.
and 12.45, and every half liour from 1.30 to 9.0. p.m. ; fare all the
way 3d.
Boats. — For Boating on f/ic A run. See imder Leamington.
WELLESBOUENE.
Inn.— King's Head (t).
WIXFORD.
Inn.— Fish (t).
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14 RAILWAYS.
CHEMINS DE FEB DE L'OUEST DE FRANCE
LONDON, BRIGHTONrAND SOUTH COAST
RAILWAY.
Circular Tours in Normandy and Brittany, starting from
London by Tickets issued from the 1st May to the Slat October,
available for one month.
rPHESE Tours open up to lovers of the picturesque, at
j[ inexpensive rates, a long course of novel and deeply
interesting scenes ■within easy reach of English travellers.
Normandy is rich both in historical associations and in
remains of medieval antiquity containing a number of
noble cathedrals, ancient abbeys and old castles, famous
both for their history and for their attractive situation.
Brittany contains the stupendous pre-historic monuments
(if the Morbihan, which for many centmies have excited
the inAestigations of the learned. Its cathedrals and
village churches are rich both in architecture and in
carvings, and the quaint and picturesque customs and
costumes of the inhabitants carry the traveller back to an
epoch which has long passed away elsewhere.
Tlie watering places on tlie coasts of both Xormandy and
Brittany are replete with unaccustomed attractions for the
English visitor. They afiford everj- facility for bathing,
and the climate commends itself to those in search of health.
The charges at the inns in both provinces are usually
very moderate.
These circular tours are divided into eleven routes, the
rates of which vary from 77s. 4d. to 150s. Id class, and from
oSs. 4d. to 122s. 4d' 2nd class.
-\gencies for tickets and full information : — London : Con-
tinental Traffic Manager's Office, Loudon Bridge ; 18, Fish
Street Hill. City; 28, Regent Circus, Piccadilly; 8, Grand
Hotel Buildings. Trafalgar Square ; Hay's' 4, Royal
Exchange Buildings. E.C. ; Messrs Cook and' Son's Tourist
office. Ludgate Circus ; Messrs H. Gaze and Son's Office,
142, Strand and Westl)ourne Grove ; and at London Bridge,
Victoria and Kensington Stations.
EAILAVAYS. 15
London, Brighton & South Coast Rail'y.
.:> SEA-SIDE -:■ PLACES. •;:•
BRIGHTON'.— Pullman Drawing Ronn Car Trains from London to
Brighton and back daily. Cheap firi-t-cla-is day Retnru Tickets— London to
Brighton every .Sunday and every Weekday. Every Wedsesday and S ati'r-
DAY — cheap dav Rr-tuni Tickets, inclu<lin<; admissitm to the Grand Aquarium
HA.STIXGS; .ST. LEOXARDS. and BEXHILL.— Tiaius ruu direct from
Victfiria and London Bridge Tvithout change cif carriage. Special facilities
by fast trains to and from London morning and evening.
EASTBOURXE. — Trains run direct without change of carriage. Special
fast trains to and from London moniiug and evening. Pullman Cars run
between Victoria and Eastlxnirne.
PORTSMOUTH. SOUTHSEA, and the ISLE OF WIGHT. -The direct
Mid-Sussex line is the shortest and quickest main rotite between Londoa
and Portsmouth, Southsea and the Isle of Wight. At the Portsmouth
Harbour St;ition and Pier, also at the Ryde Pier Htsad RaOway .Station,
passengeis by this rout« step frtim the train t<i the steamers, and r^et crisa.
Throtigh tickets issu€xl .and luggage registered, including all charges.
SEAFURD, WORTHIXG, LITTLEHaMPTOX. BOGXORA; HAYLIXG
I3LAXD — Through carriages run t.o and from Loudon during sea-side season.
Retcrx TlcKFTS. — Ketum tickets issued f«c distances from 12 to .50
miles are available for return within eight days including date of issue
and return: Return tickets issued for longer distances than ."'0 miles are
available to return within one calendar mouth, including date of issue and
return. (The London distance will be taken for tickets iasue<l to and fi-om
all stations, noil.h of Croydon inclusive). Cheap Friday. Saturday and
.Sunday to Monday tickets are issued from London to Mi<ihurst, Ports-
mouth, Sonthsei, and the Isle of Wight. Cheap Saturday ,aud Sunday to
Sunday or Monday tickets are issued f rotn London to the sea-side. Cheap
Saturday and Sunday to Sunday, Monday or Tuesday tickets are issued from
London to Brighton. Cheap family and tourist tickets, available for
two months, are issued from London during the sea-side .seasc>n.
Ijondoa, Paris and the Continent, ><a Xewhavea. Diep7»e, and Rouen,
the shortest and cheap>est route. Improved fixetl Services between Loudon
and Paris, everv weekdav and Sunday.
TWO FIXED EXPRESS SERVICES a9 under:—
A Day Express Senic« (first and second class) between L:>ndon and
Wris, r!a Xewhaven, Diepjie, and Rouen, leaving London and Palis,
every weekday and Sunday morning. A Xight Expre-s Service (first,
second and third class) between London and P.tris, ria Xewhaven, Dieppe,
and Rouen, leaving London and Paris every weekday and Sunday evenit g
For full particulais. times and fares, see time tables and special bills.
Luggage will be registered throughout between London and Paris, by
the day and night services, 6fi lbs. weight being alloweil to e,ach passenger.
Xew Steamers. — The splendid Steamers "Brittany.'' '• Xormandy,'
"Paris," "Rouea,'' and "Seine," are built of steel, they are of great
power and speed, and furnished with every acconimoilation for the com-
fort of all classes of yiassengers, and are fitted with the electric light.
Passengers are booked through between Loudon and ;ill the princijial towns
in the south of France, Italy, Switzerland, &c. Tickets for Circular Tours
through France, SwitzerlanJ, &c., with choice of sevei-al routes, are issued
by this service.
Tickets and every information at the princi}«l offices: — ioii<'o/i— West
End General Enquiry and Booking Offices : 28. Regent Circus, and 8, Grand
Hotel Buildings ; City Office, Hays', 4. Royal Exchange Buildings ; Stations ;
Ix'ndon Bridge and Victoria. — /'•iciV : Id, Rue du 4 Septembre ; 4, C, and S,
Rue St. Anne ; Station : St. Lazare (near the Madeleine).
London Bridge Terminus. A. SARLE, Secretary and General Manager.
Itt KAILAVAY AND CONVEYANCES.
EAST AND WEST JUNCTION
STRiTFOKD-ON-AYONf TOWCESTER AND
MIDLAND JUNCTION RAILWAYS.
STRA T FORD OX- A VON.
Shaksspeave's Country and the Ancestral Home of
Washington.
Quickest and Shirtest R >ute hetxoeen London and Sfrafford-
on-Avon.
AMONG the Places of interest on tills Railway are: —
Shakespeare's Country and Stratford-on-Avon, the
Birthplace of Shakespeare, Kineton, near which the Battle
of Edge Hill was fought; also the nearest station fc^
Compton Wynyates, Moreton Pinkney, three miles from
which is the" Village of Sulgrave, celebrated as the home of
t?he Ancestors of George Washington, first President of the
United States of America. In the old Village Church may
be seen the Arms of the Washington Family, " The Stars
and Stripes."
WEDDING ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO.
-Wllj-LilAlsl ^^ATALBY,
JOB AND POST MASTER,
BI]«SW00D jaEWS ^^ C^P^^I7I6E ^EP0^IT0I^Y,
Hunting and Livery Stables,
LEAMINGTON.
Also at PORTLAND MEWS, PORTLAND STREET.
EDWARD McGEEGOE,
BATH MEWS, LEAMINGTON SPA.
HORSE DEALER AND JOB MASTER,
Coach Proprietor and Livery Stable Keeper.
BATH ESTABLISHMENT.
17
BOROUGH OF ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA.
THE ROYAL PUMP ROOMS & BATHS
are agi-eat attiactiou to the resiileiits and visitors, and below will be foiuid
partic\ilars of tliis favourite resort.
TABLE OF AVERAGE CUXTEXTS (without decimal fractions)
OF AN IMPERIAL PINT OF THE LEAMINGTON
MINERAL WATERS.
Saliite residt'e 2>(>' imperial pint.
Sulphate of
soda.
Chloride of
Sodium.
Chloride of
calcium.
Chloride of
magnesium.
28 to 40 grains.
40 to 00 grains.
20 grains. 3 to 12 gi-aius.
With bromide, iodine, carbonic acid gas, free oxygen, and sulphuretted
hydrogen gas in proportiou-j varying with the spring selected for analysis.
The CkahjIjiMti Spriwj contains peroxide of iron, in considerable
quantity, in addition.
About one pint of water in the day is the usual quantity taken when its
ajjerient effect is desired. The earl3- period of the morning is generally
chosen for its administration — one half being reserved until twenty
minutes' brisk exercise has followed the first dose ; but its aUoption requii-es
particular rules in individual ca-ses, according to their peculiarities, of
which the resident medical men are the best judges. Great benefits result
in its administration in derangement of the digestive functions, visceral
obstructions, cutaneous diseases. Liver affections, gout, and rheumatism
generally relieved by a course of bathing in combination with the internal
use of the water and other means.
TERMS:
Subscription to the Pump Room (iacluding iite of Daily and Weckl>/
A'c ftpajyers).
FAMILY SUBSCRIPTIONS.
£ s.
d.
SINGLE SUBSCRIPTIONS.
£ s.
rl
One year
15
One year
10
6
Six mouths
10
()
Six months
7
a
Three months
7
•i
Three months
5
One month
5
One month
3
One week
4
One week
1
Joint Tickets for Pump Room and Jephson Gardens are issued to
visitors at the following reduced rates:
Family Tickets, three months, 15/- ; one month, 8/-; one week, 0/-.
Single Ticket, three montlis, 8/- ; one month, 5/- ; one week, 1/6.
The Large AssernOh/ Raont !.-< supplied trith Sail// Pap': ra for the use of
St'.bgcrilierg. For hue of Large Pump Room for meetings, entertainments,
&c., and terms, ajjply to the Manager.
Bottled Spa Water. — The Saline Water is supplied in bottles, securely
corketl.and capsuled, at 3- per doz. pints ; and in sierated fonn at 4/- per
doz. pints (1/- per dozen allowed for emjities returned).
Concentrated Spa Water is supplied for the convenience of those
living at a distance. 1/- per quart bottle.
BATHS.
Tiu-kish, Douche or Shower, Needle, Vapour, Sitz, Pine, Sulphur, Deep
Immersion, &c.
SWIMMING BATHS.
There are two Swimming Baths, the gentlemen's being one of tlie finest
in the country, 110ft. by 40ft., and a smaller one for lailies, 70ft. by 30ft.
18
STRATFORD-OX-AVON,
THE FOUNTAIN HOTEL
lOPPOSlTE THE AMERICAN FOUNTAIN).
Extensively Patronized by AMERICAN VISITORS.
THE FOUNTAIN.' TEMPERANCE HOTEL lias been opened
with a view to provide accommodation at a reasonable
tariff for the ever-increasing number of Tourists and Visitors to
the shi'ine of the world's greatest poet.
The Hotel is centrally situated, is in close proximity to the
Great 'Western Railway Station, and within three minutes' walk
of Shakespeare's House. The Church and other places of
interest are likewise within easy walking distance.
A Porter meets all Trains.
NO CHARGE FOR ATTENDANCE.
Address : The Manageress.
Megistered Telegraphic Address :F(. untain, >i'trafford-i.n-Aion.
HOTELS. 19
SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY.
< LE/IJsIIj\6'F0]VI. ^
(UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.)
Proprietor and Manager - Mr. J. C. FRANKLIN.
j^ESruRED and added to, and partly refurnished, this fine
Family and Commercial Hotel is now one of the most con;-
fortable in the Midlands.
BILLIARD, READING AND SMOKING ROOMS,
COFFEE. COMMERCIAL AND DINING ROOMS,
PRIVATE SUITES OP APARTMENTS,
FORTY SPACIOUS AND WELL - VENTILATED BEDROOMS,
BALL ROOM, PERFECT SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS,
EXTENSIVE STABLING,
TENNIS COURTS, BOWLING GREEN
GOOD CUISINE, CHOICE WINES.
Moderate Charges. Boards taken en pension.
Leamington is not only a celebrated Health Resort, but
al.so a caxjital centre whence to visit the numerous places
of intere.st which cluster about it.
N.B. — The Crown Hotel is within a stone's throw of the beautiful
Jephson Gardens, Pump Rooms, Municiiial Building.s, Museum, Picture
Gallery, Theatre, Concert Hall, Central Post Office, both Railway
Stations, and the princi|ial Cliurches and Cliapels ; also within two mile.s
of Warwick Town and Castle, and Guy's Clitf, three of Stoneleigh Abbey,
five of Kenllworth Castle, eight of Edge Hill, nine of Coventiy, twelve of
Kugby, twenty of Birmingham, and ten of Stratfordon-Avon. Inexpen-
sive circular driving tours arranged ; Horses at Livery : Traps on Hire.
Crown Hotel, Leamington — " A Home from Home."
20
GOLDEI LIOi\ HOTEL,
STRATFORD-OX- AVON.
THIS HOTEL is known to AMERICANS as a Home from
Home. It is one of the oldest Hotels in Stratford,
being known in Shakespeare's life time as
" Yi: PEACOCK IXS,"
the old original indenture appertaining to that effect, now-
being in the possession of the Proprietor, dated 1613. Agent
for Messrs. Gaze and Sons, Tourist Agents, for whom
coupons are taken. Also headquarters of the C.T.C. No
charge for attendance.
JOHN FBY, Proprietor.
CABS >.(; CARS
FOR HIRE.
T]HOM/fS JH. W009W/rF^9,
Golden Lion Hotel Mews, Stratford-on-Avon.
IIRST-CLASS HASSOMS AKD ALL OTHER CARRIAGES.
Brakes, &:c., for Pleasure Parties.
SADDLE HORSES
Let by the Day, Week, Month, or Quarter.
TERMS STRICTLY MODERATE.
Private Address - - -28, GUILD STREET,
HOTELS. 21
THE BOY/LING GREEN
FAMILY V AND V COMMERCIAL V HOTEL
(Close to the Leycester Hospital)
WARWICK.
Entirehj undi-r Neiv Manayement,
Propeiktcr - - F. BENNETT.
The linest Bowling Green in the District. Luncheons,
Dinner and Teas, Ball Suppers, and AVedding Breakfasts
catered for. Excellent Ales, Wines and Spirits. Cigar and
Tobacco Merchant. Good Stabling and Loose Boxes.
Market Ordinary Saturdays at 1-15.
TERMS MOD BEAT E
F^UGBY J^RIVATE JHoTEL,
lO, ALBERT STREET.
Patronised by the Aristocracy, Members of Parliament,
Hunting Gentlemen, and Families visiting Scliools.
PIiE^S/iNT : Pl^IY/ITE V SIT¥I,\'6 : I^GOJ«IS,
HOME COMFOliTS. GOOD (TISINJi. MODERATE CHARGES
Tariff on application to tlu- Proprietor.
HOTEL?.
BERKS WELL (STATION).
THE RAILWAY HOTEL,
Iliglily recommended by Visitors and Cyclists.
GOOD ACCOMMODATION FOR LARGE OR SMALL
PARTIES, \\]i;cli are Catered for at the Shortest Notice
upon Reasonal)h> Terms.
HOME BREWED ALES, WINES, SPIRITS, AND
CIGARS of the Finest Quality.
Terms on application to
M. A. ANDREWS,
PROPRIETRESS.
A LARGE FIELD FOR SPORTS OPPOSITE THE HOTEL.
GEORGE-IN-THE-TREE HOTEL,
Kenilworth Road, Balsall, Berkswell.
E. B. Dillon ------ Proprietor.
THIS Hotel has now become one of the most attractive
pleasure resorts in the Midlands. It is charmingly situated
in a most proverbially hcaltiiy jiart of the county, %vithin one mile
of the Bcrkswell Station, and" affords superior accommodation to
visitors with all the advantages of a farmhouse The Pleasure
Grounds are now open for the Season, and include Assembly
Room (capable of seating 200 persons). E.xtensive stabling and
Lock-up Coach-house Also every convenience for Cyclists.
THE BULLS HEAD HOTEL AND POSTING
HOUS E, MER IDEN.
1 EXCURSION Parties, Cyclists, and others will tind this
L Old Established Hotel and Posting House always
ready to receive large or small parties.
MRS. BODEN, PROPRIETRESS.
Write or wire to the above address.
HOTELS. 23
ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA.
MANOR ^ HOUSE *f HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS for Fiiiuilies and Gentlemen. Surrounded by its most
niagnilicently laid-out grounds sloping to the River Learn, facing the
Pump Room Gartlens. an<l in close proximity to both Railway Stations —
thus making it one of the prettiest places of resort in the Kingdom. The
Hotel has been considerably enlarged ; furnished with all modern com-
forts. Handsome Coffee ami Ladies' Uiawing Rooms, ifcc. French and
English Cuisine. Table d'Hote at Seven o'clock. Posting, &c. Splendid
new Boxes for Hunters.
ROBERT LAMPLOUGH, Proprietor.
(And of the Pavilion Hotel, Scarboro'.)
IsEA mTn GTO n"Tl^^
Delightful Situation, opposite Pump Room Gardens
and Parade. Central for Shakespeare's Country.
/
A FJJiSr-CLASS PRIVATE AND FAMILY HOTEL.
Moderate Tariff. Highly Eecommended. (Copy Address.)
THE WASHINGTON PRIVATE FAMILY HOTEL,
VICTORLV T1^:KRACE, LEAMINGTON SPA,
(Opposite Genera] Post Office).
Commercial Room Tariff : Plain Breakfast or Tea, Is., with
Eggs, Is. 3d., with Chops, Steak or Pish, Ls. 9d. Beds, Is. 6d.
American and other Visitors will find this a Comfortable
Hotel. Private Apartments with or without Board.
GEO. n. J^ANE, Proprietor.
8T0NELEIGH ARMS COMMERCIAL HOTEL,
CLEMENS STREET, LEAMINGTON.
CYCI-ilSTS, Commercial Gentlemen, and Visitors will
find every accommodation and comfort.
Teas and Dinners provided any hour of the day. Terms
strictly moderate. Horses and Carriages Let on Hire
Loose Bjxes, Stabling, lk,c.
C. DUKJ:^, Pn)prietor.
24 HOTELS.
RED LION HOTEL,
BANBURY.
Family and Commercial Hotel and Posting House,
Good Hunting (Quarters.
Large Yard — Excellent Loose Boxes and Stables.
Within reach of Four Packs of Hounds.
BILLIARDS-
JOHN W. BLOOMFIELD, Proprietor.
BOURNEMOUTH.
PRIORY MANSIONS.
BATH ROAD, EAST CLIFF.
THIS excellent Boarding Establisliment is beautifully situated
in lovely grounds, near the Sea, and Pleasur.e Gardens.
Good Billiard Rooms. Two Drawing Rooms. Tennis Lawn.
Numerous Testimonials. The house holds certificate for sanitary'
excellence. Prospectus free.
TtUgraphk AMrcsi .•— " GREENLEA VES, BOURNEMOUTH.
OLD RED LION HOTEL,
BRIDGE STREET, STHATFORD-ON-AVON.
G. BEN NETT, P roprietor.
Excursion Parties, Visitors, and Cyclists will find this old
established Hotel always ready to receive large or small parties.
Choice Ales, Wines, Spirits, and Cigars.
Large Brakes, suitable for Pleasure Parties, provided.
O. STTELDOISr,
SADDLERS' ARMS, WARWICK ROAD, SOLIHULL
(Late of Ship Moid, Camp HUl.)
Importer of Wines, Spirits, and Cigars of the Finest Qualities.
Accommodation for Cyclists — Dinners and Teas provided.
BILLIARDS. AGEXT FOR LOCAL & BURTON ALES.
GOOD STABLING.
Five minutes' walk to Railway Station. Cab and Car Office.
HOTELS. 25-
DINING. AND REFRESHMENT ROOMS,
SMITH STREET and ST. JOHN'S,
WARWICK.
DiNXERS AXD Teas Provided Daily.
Beds. Cigars.
Proprietress : —
MISS BUCKLEY.
THE CASTLE GREEN,
KENILAVORTH (opposite the Ruins).
DINING and REFRESHMENT ROOMS. Every accom-
modation and comfort for Visitors and Cyclists.
Large and small pai'ties catered for. Terms strictly
moderate.
J3roprietress-JV1|^S. S/tTejHWEbb.
JONES BROTHERS
COACH PROPRIETORS,
LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.
Private Coaches and reliable HursfS for Touriii"-, suitahlo for
Gentlemen to drive. V\ rite for tariff to above addreifs.
26
EDUCATIONAL,
ytiiniliigtoii m C0llege.
VISITOR :
THE LORD BISHOP
OF
WORCESTER.
PRESIDENT OF COUNCIL :
THR RIGHT HON.
THE
LORD LEIGH
(Lord Li'-nleimnt nf the
Countii).
VICE-PRESIDENTS :
THE SPEAKER OF THE HOUSE OF COMIIONS
(THE RIGHT HON. A. W.. PEEL,- M.P.)
THE VERY REV. G. G. BRADLEY, D.D.
{Dean of Wishiiingtcr, (nul Chaplain in Ordinary to the Queen.)
SIR JOSEPH FAYRER, K.C.S.I., L.L.DT,
M.D., F.R.S.
SIR WILLLUI H. FLOWER, K.C.B., L.L.D.,
F.R.C.S., F.R.S.
THE REV. A. AUSTIN LEIGH, M.A.
(Proroxt of Kinij's Cnllcf/e, Camhridr/e.)
THE VEN. E. PALMER, D.D.
(Archdeacoii of Oxford and Canon of Christ Church, Oxford.)
J. L. STRACHAN-DAVIDSON, ESQ., M.A.
(Fdlou- and Tutor of Balliol CoUeejc, O.rford.)
HEAD-MASTER :
REV. R. ARNOLD EDGELL, M.A.
{University Colli ge, O.iford ; late Axxi.ffunt Master at Westiiiinstcr Se'hool.)
Preparation for ihe Universities, Professions, and Services.
Classical and Modem Sides. Army Cla^s. Junior School for
Boys between 8 and 13.
Scholarships, in value from £20 to £4-0, are competed for
annually. Fees moderate. Further information may be
obtained from the Head- Master.
EDUCATIONAL. 27
THE KING'S SCHOOLS, WARWICK.
THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL,
MYTON ROAD.
Head Master: REV. J. P. AVAV. M.A.
firj„,l,irf>/ B. X C, (Jj/oril, Intr Ilutixf iln<t,r ni Mnrlhunnujh ColUfff.
TUITION FEES.
For Residents in the Borough of AVarwick, £9 per annum.
For Xon-Hesident.s, £12 jier annuin.
Boarding and Tuition, £52 per annum.
A School List and Prospectus, giving the fuUe.st
iut'ormation, can he ohtaineil on application to the Head
Master.
THE MIDDLE SCHOOL,
THE BUTTS.
Head Master - - REV. H. G. AVILLACY, M.A.
TuiTiox Fees, for Residents in tlie Borough of
Warwick, £4 per annum.
For Xon-Residents, £r> per annum.
Further-information on application to tlie Head Master.
THE HIGH SCHOOL FOR GIRLS,
LANDOR HOUSE.
Head Mistress ----- :\ii.s.S FISHER.
TriTiox Fees, for Residents in the Borougli of Warwick,
£5 (is. (id. per annum.
For Non-Residents, £6 13s. 3d.
There is a Kindergarten Class under tlie management of
a Trained and Certiticatrd Kindergarten Mistress.
Thfrc are also Boanling Houses, licensed l)y the Govern-
ing l}ody. at charges varying from £'M to 1'40 ]ier annum.
Furtlier intormation on application to the Head Mistre.«.s.
28
EDUCATIOXAL.
COMBER HOUSE LEAMINGTON.
High-Class Education for the Daughters of Gentlemen.
Principal : MISS PILIPP, Diplomee.
LEAMINGTON KINDERGARTEN,
SOMERSET HOUSE, CLAEENDOiN PLACE,
Principal: MISS E. BARRATT.
The School is divided into three Departments.
The Kindergarten Proper, Avliich furnishes education for
Boys and Girls between the ages of three and seven;
The Transition School, for boys and Girls between the
ages of seven and ten.
The Higher School, for Girls above ten years of age.
Entire charge taken of children whose parents are abroad
Thorough Preparation for Professional and Commercial
Pursuits (Individual Attention).
Large Gymnasium. Private Cricket Field.
Principal
ARTHUR RICHES, F.R.A.S,
EDUCATIONAL.
29
SCHOOL FOR DAUGHTERS OF GENTLEMEN.
#alv iousc, Hppcr iolln mdh,
lady Principal
MISS WRIGHT.
L^DIEg gCP00Ii, C0WiE6E P0n^E,
HOLYHEAD ROAD, COVENTRY.
MRS. J. W. NEWSOME, assisted by a competent staff
of Resident Teachers and Visiting Professors, receives
Boarders and Day Pupils. Instruction given on High
School methods. Pupils successfully prepared for College
of Preceptors and other Local Examinations. Annual
Inspection of the School by University Examiners. Special
Classes in French, German, Dancing and Class Singing.
yO LEAMINGTON AD^'ERTISEMENTS.
¥. E. MAGRATH & CO,
31, THE PARADE,
LEAMINGTON SPA,
WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANTS, i
PROPRIETOKS OF THE CELEBRATED
"O.P." BRAND
SCOTCH & IRISH WHISKIES.
AGENTS FOR THE FOLLOWING :-
HENRY DUBOIS, Jihciins - - - CHAMPAGNES
THE ENGLISH COLLEGE \ RED AND WHITE
VINEYARDS, VaUadolid. ] WINES.
THE ST. HUBERT VINEYARDS) AUSTRALIAN CLARETS
AudruUa. i AND BURGUNDIES.
THE OLD BUSHMILLS!
DISTILLERY CO., LIMITED, I PURE MALT AVHISKEY.
Couitfi/ Antrim. J
THE ST. PAULI BREWERIES \ PILSENER & LAGER
CO., Bremen. j BEER.
WM. SUMMERS Jt CO., BRISTOL, MINERAL WATERS.
SITIETTON HILLS MINERAL! MINERAL AVATERS.
UAILR CO. J
LEAMINGTON A1)^■ERTISEMENTS 31
« GEORGE « CUNNEW, ^
AKD
HERALDIC STATIONER,
116, PARADE („i'r:"„J LEAMINGTON.
Of Warwick, Kenilworth, Guy's Cliff, Leamington,.
Stratford-on-Avon, Coventry, dc.
A SELECTION OF OVER 500 VIEWS, INCLUDING ALL SIZES
AND PRICES, MOUNTED AND UNMOUNTED.
:piij.^TznsroT^Z":PES.
GUIDE BOOKS & MAPS.
A large variety of Leatlier and Fancy Articles
most of wliicli arc of English manufacture, always in stock.
NOVELTIES AKE ADDED AS PEODUCED^
AN INSPECTION IS REQUESTED.
32 LEAMINGTON AD"\-EnTISEMEXTS.
J. ANTHONY LOCKE,
(Late Locke, Gilbert and Co., and White and Locke),
THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED
HOUSE AND ESTATE AGENCY OFFICES
IX THE BOROUGH,
Auctioneer and Accountant, Surveyor,
Valuer for Probate and all other purposes.
Agent for the Lancashire Fire and Life Insurance Company.
CHIEF OFFICES: 166, THE PAEADE.
EST. 1817.] D, JOHNSON, [EST. 1817.
WINE *^ WB v^PIRPF V PE^CP^N^F,
SCOTCH WHISKIES--EXTRACT from "Trade."
" It is generally acknowledged that Scotch Whiskej- is now
the most wholesome and most highly favoin-ed beverage of the
people. A very notable feature of the Scotch Whiskey- trade at
the present time is the growing preference among almost all
classes of society for AVliiskies of more pronounced char-
acteristics. It is a return to the love of former years, for a
similar taste existed before the blending epoch began. >'ow,
happily, a reaction has taken place, and the faith in the highly
flavoured and ' single " products of the old ' sma' ' stills, to which
the more refined classes of society have always adhered, is
rapidlj- gaining ground among the general public."'
Some years ago I selected one of the best-known Tslay
Distilleries, ARDBEG, which has found great favour among my
customers. The Ardbeg Distillery, in this famous Island of
Lslay, produces a beneficent spirit, possessing the rare dis-
tinction of being at once a healthful and most palatable
stimvdant, as a .single pure AVhiskey without blend.
Guaranteed six vears old, 21s. per gallon ; 3s 6d. per bottle.
13. bath" ST., LEAMINGTON SPA.
LEAMINGTON ADVBRTISESIENTS. 33
T. CLAXTON & SON,
TAILORS.
LADIES' RIDING HABITS AND JACKETS.
RIDING BREECHES AND LIVERIES.
106, PARADE,
LEAMINGTON.
E. FEANCIS & SOIS^
Are glad to show visitors to Leamington their fine
collection of
ENGLISH AND FOREIGN GOODS
Exhibited in their
LARGE MANTLE, COSTUME c^- MILLINERY
SHOW ROOMS.
LADIES' UNDERCLOTHIxNG, SILKS & DRESSES,
TRIMMINGS, RIBBONS & LACE.
HOUSEHOLD LINENS & UPHOLSTERY.
34, 36 AND 38, BATH STREET,
LEAMINGTON SPA.
34 LEAMINGTON ADVERTISEMENTS.
THE COUNTY DRUG STORES,
40, BATH STREET,
50, THE PARADE, LP]AMINGTON SPA.
For DRUGS, CHEMICALS, PROPRIETARY and PATENT
MEDICINES,
Toilet and Nnrsery Articles, Sponges, Photographic
Reqnisites, &c.,
AT CIVIL SERVICE STORE PRICES.
DISPENSING at aliont one-half the usual cost, by qualified
and Examined Chemists only. The purest Drugs
obtainable ni'e used.
THOMAS DAVIES, SEN.,
HUNTING, SHOOTINC}, & WALKING BOOTS i
OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.
BOOT TREES MADE TO ORDER.
FOREIGN ORDERS MADE UP AT SHORTEST NOTICE.
24. REGENT STREET WEST,
LEAMINGTON.
LEAMINGTOX ADVERTISEMENTS.
REGfENT STREET WEST POST OFFICE.
35
THOMAS KEMAED,
22, KE(tENT ST. AVEST, LEAMINGTON SPA.
Inrites an inspection of his Large and Varied Stock of
Second-Hand Books.
IADIES OR CIEXTLEMEX having Books to dispose of
J will please remember that better prices for Books
cannot be realised, either in the Metropolis or any
Provincial Town, than can be obtained at his Establish-
ment, which is the Oldest and Largest in the neighbour-
hood.
CO lis Eli OF SPENCER STREET AND
VICTORIA TERRAri;.
AGENT FOR
ALFRED
HARRIS.
Cash Grocer,
VICTORIA STORES,
LEAMINGTON.
36 leaminctTOx advertisements.
The Oldest Furnishing Establishment ix Leamington.
GENERAL HOUSE FURNISHERS,
AUVTlOyEERs, VALUERS, ASD IIuViE AGEyTS,
29 AND 60, THE PAEADE, LEAMIN(iTON.
^ >$• ^
Furniture, Carriages, and other effects warehoused at
reasonable terms. Lock-up rooms to be had.
FuKXiTCRE Removed to all Paets.
Chief Office— 60, THE PARADE, LEAMINGTON SPA.
Established 1852.
The Central Fruit Stores,
76, WARWICK gTI^EET, liE^jai^GTON.
T. FRANKLIN
Supplies VEGETABLES fresh from his own Farms daily, in
large or small quantities.
ALL KINDS OF
ENGLISH & FOEEKtN FEUITS IN SEASON.
Families waited upon for orders daily.
T. FRANKLIN,
FRUIT AND POTATO SALESMAN,
76, Warwick Street, Leamington, & Heathcote, Warwick.
LEAMIXGTOX ADVERTISEMENTS. 37
R . B O W E N ,
BUILDER, PLUMBER. AND DECORATOR,
3, TAVISTOCK ST.. KOYAL LEAMINGTON' SPA.
SANITARY WORK A SPECIALITY.
Risk of Sewer Gas entirely removed by means of
Inspection Chambers being built and ventilated, thereby
entirely Disconneetinfj; Main Drains from House, as recently
carried out at " Sehvood," Leamington, for Dr. Thursfield,
and others in this town.
Ecclesiastical Wcrik.
This is also a special branch of R.B.'s trade. Having carried
out several works, viz. : Carved Oak Pulpits, Choir Stalls,
Chancel Screens, kc. (both under S. S. Stallwood, Esq.,
Architect, Reading, and the late J. Cundall, Esq., F.R.I. B.A.,
of Leamington), he is prepared to execute and tix work of
the above kind in any part of the country ; prepared in
Teak or Uak, and to any design.
Egtimates Given for all Kinds of Work in the Building Trade.
THE " LORNE" BAZAAR.
WAMS LEY'S STORES
OF
STATIONERY, TOYS, GAMES & FANCY GOODS
Established 1847.
Large Show-Room Upstairs for Best Toys.
WILSON'S, BEDFORD'S and VALENTINE'S
PP0TO6I^/IP}I^ OK THE NEIGHBOai^JIOOD.
MRS. WAMSLEY,
46, THE PARADE, LEAMINGTON.
38 LEAMINGTON ADVERTISEMENTS.
FOR
HIGH-CLASS MANTLES,
CLOAKS, JACKETS, COSTUMES,
BALL AND SUMMER GOWNS.
James Brown,
32, THE PARADE,
EOYAL LEAMINGTON SPA.
THE READY MONEY
NEW & SECOND-HAND FURNITURE STORES,
52, 54 and 56, WARWICK STREET,
(Opposite the Tram Junction), and
1, BEDFORD STREET, LEAMINGTON,
For all kinds of
HOUSEHOLD "r FURNITURE,
<■ AT V LOWEST V PRICES ■:• FOR :■ CASH :• ONLY. •>
10,000 SQUARE FEET OF SHOWROOM SPACE.
FIFTEEN MODEL ROOMS.
TH08. LANE & COMPY-.,
PROPKIETOES.
LEAMINGTON ADVKllTISEMENTS. 39
FREDERICK PERKINS,
S
37, REGENT ST., LEAMINGTON.
NURSERY AT LILLINGTON,
Conservatories Completely Furnished. Evergreen Shrubs.
Rose and Fruit Trees.
Seeds and Plants Packed for all Climates.
Gardens Laid and Planted.
Dinner Tables and Ball Rooms Decorated.
Importer of Dutch Bulbs and German Flower Seeds.
The Largest and Best Staff and Plant in Leamington for
BOOK-WORK, JOB PRINTING & BOOKBINDING.
ART AND BOOK CO.,
]\'Ikiiufa(itiu'ing ^tatioi|eiV & Sli^^ioui^t i)ook
Ma-kef^.
ESTABLISHED 1825.
L. AND S. MEREDITH,
MILLINERS,
LADIES' AM) CIIILDIIEN'S HATTERS,
74, P/Il^/IDK, /IND 75, W/im'iri(3K ^T^KET,
LEAMINGTON.
Wedding and ilourning Orders promptly attended to.
40 LEAMIXGTOX APA'KRTISEMENTS.
THOMAS BAILEY,
BUILDER (Coua-actor to H. ^I. Government).
29, CLARENDON AVENUE, Leamington.
SHOP FRONTS AND FITTINGS COMPLETED.
PLUMBING, PAINTING, PAPERHANGING.
FrxEEALS Completely Fuhxished.
Estimates given. Dilapidations Surveyed.
" FREDERICK BAKER,
WPOLES^LE n\D RET/IIIi JJE^T PUP^YEYOl^
PRIME WELSH MOUNTAIN & RADNOR FOREST MUTTON
A SPECIALITY.
6, ]3runswick jStreet,
leamington.
13'5. THE PARADE.
MORNING DRESSES,
DIMMER AND EVENING GOWNS,
Ml LLI N ERY.
Wedbing Trousseaux Complete.
Mesmmes LACEY and DAYIES,
ARTISTES IN MILLINERY,
BABY LINEN, OUTFITTING, CORSETS, GLOVES, ETC.
114, THE PARADE, Leamington.
LEAMINGTON ADVERTISEMENTS. 41
TRY
O VE ETON'S
BUE AD,
S), 'I'^CflBROOK gTREEW,
LEAMIXGTON.
62, IPJIE P^R^DE, ItE^iaifjeTON gPH-
MISS E. BOND
(Late Misses jMatthew and Baxter),
MILLINER.
Latest Fashions in Millinery, Bonnets, Hats,
Caps, Headdresses, Etc.
Special attention given to the prompt execution of orders.
Eesidrnce: 74, CLARENDON STREET.
J. HAREIDENCE,
SLATER & DEALER IN BUILDERS' MATERIALS,
EENIIiWORTJI gTI^EE5^,
LEAMINGTON.
BAKING & CONFECTIONERY STORES,
52, AND .54, REGENT STREET.
FAMILY AND FANCY BREAD BAKER,
PASTRYCOOK AND CONFECTIONER.
Cakes of every description from 4d. to Is. per pound.
Savoy Biscuits, Macaroons, &c. Agent for Huntley and
Palmers Biscuits and Frank White's Unfennented VVines.
■i2 l.EAMIXGTOX AlJVERTISEMEXT.S.
57, WARWICK STREET, LEAMINGTON
Near the Parade] "Established 36 Years.
JOHN ROBINSON,
CARPET AND LEATHER BAGS.
Ladies' light \Nater-proof Dress and Bonnet Baskets, and all
kinds of Travelling Equipages. A large and varied Stock of
Umbrellas. Umbrellas repaired and re-covered. Repairs or
Exchanges on reasonable terms.
JNO. T. ^ATHITE,
'■r TPE HRT H\D BKIG-/I-BR«C 67ILLERY, f>
44 & 46, Regent Street, Leamington Spa.
DECOEATIVE UPHOLSTERER & CABINET MAKER.
Ball Rooms Prepared in all Styles.
Drawing Room Stage " Fit-iip " "with Scenery and
Accessories complete. Estimates free.
SANS OM'S TOOTH P ASTE.
This elegant, harmless preparation is compounded from the
best materials recommended by Physicians and Dentists
for the Teeth and Gums.
IN POTS, 1S.. is. 6d., AND 2s. 6d. EACH.
SI. s j^n::Tso:M:,
DISPENSING CHEMIST,
71, REGENT STREET, LEAMINGTON SPA.
E. BULLOCK & Co.,
^rtists aub ||botoqvapbcrs,
]53, REGENT gT., ]iE)qpi;s:6T0N gP^.
niOH-CLASS PHOTOGRAniY AT MODERATE PRICES.
LEAMINGTON ADVERTISEMENTS. 43
CHANDLER,
JEWELLER, CHRONOMETER d WATCH MAKER,
4, VIOTOlilA TERKACE, BATH STKEET,
EOYAL LEAMINGTON SPA.
Specialities :— ENGAGEMENT RINGS, WEDDING
PRESENTS.
SMITH &, SON,
Pharmaceutical and Analytical Chemists.
102, THE PARADE, LEAMINGTON SPA.
Defective Drainage is Dangerous to Health.
WILLIAM DAWKES, R.P.,
BUILDER, PLUMBER, ETC.
Pbactical Sanitary and Ventilating Surveyor.
Inspection of, and Reports made on, Sanitary Condition
of HoiLses.
Wash-out Closets fixed on New and Improved Principles
with Dawkes' Patent Flushing Valve.
13, KADFOKI) ROAD, LEAMINGTON.
C. GOODMAN,
PASTRY COOK AND CONFECTIONER,
BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKKR,
123, REGENT STREET,
ROYAL LEAMIN(iTON.
RICH BRIDE CAKES ON THE SHORTEST NOTICE.
44: I.EAMINGTOX ADVElllISEMENTS.
BUILDER, ETC.,
34, CLARENDON STREET, LEAMINGTON.
All Kinds of Jobbing Work Pkactically Executed,
Special attention to S-mitary arrangements, having
executed large Contract under the direction of Roger Field,
Esq., M. Inst. C.E., London.
GOOD SAND AND GRAVEL FOR SALE.
THOMAS H. HORSWILL,
COAL MERCHANT,
Xj E J^ JVC I INTO T O IsT .
ALL COALS AT LOWEST PRICES.
OFFICE: 31, GUY STREET.
Residence: 46, PORTLAND PLACE.
CHARLES KAY,
From Mulliner and Cockshoot, of Manchester.
LATEST DESIGN AND FINISH, STRENGTH AND
DURABILITY CAREFULLY PROVIDED FOR.
Estimates on moderate scale tendered for Repairs and
New Carriages.
WI^D^Of^ •:• PL^CE, •: IiE^J^IJVeTG^I.
(LATE LANE),
GUNSMITH AND GASFITTER,
Repairs Efficiently and Promptly Executed.
Guns, Rifles, and Ammunition.
■Smokeless SDorting, Rifle, and other Cartridges.
Fishing Tackle and every requisite for the Sportsman.
Gas Chandeliers, Stoves, Brackets, Globes, &c.
5S, W^^WICK ^JFl^EEJF, LE^J)lI]\I6¥eN.
LEAMINGTON ADVKKTI.SEMENTS. 45'
MADAME PEERLESS,
'it I^KSEjV'r V Gl'^OVK, -:- IiE/IJkII]V6'r0]V -:• ^P^. ■!*►
SHOW ROOMS FOK
COSTUMES, MANTLES, JACKETS, MILLINERY,
EIX'.
THE DRESSMAKING DEPARTxMEXT is carried on by
experienced hands, under the personal Supervision of th©
Principal, and a GOOD I^'IT can be relied upon.
Mourning Orders Promptly Executed
PICTO^E r(EgT0R7ITI0]\[. "
PAINTINGS Liiieil, Cleaned, and Repaired at Moderate Charges by
Professional Experts, and can be seen at all times in progress by those
interested. Only entrust valuable Works of Art to those with proper
credentials of long standing, experience, and knowledge.
ALL ESTIMATES FREE.
"We have fonn<l confidence in Messrs. Holyoake and Coates to be
thoroughly well merited and rewarded by results."— Court Journal.
HOLYOAKE & COATES,
35, WARWICK STREET, Leamington.
' JNO. T. WHITE,
•IS- TpE nm /IND B^IC-/I-I31^/IC5 G^LLEl^Y, >
44 & 46, Regent Street, Leamington Spa.
All kinds of Artistic Novelties and Curios.
PICTURE DEALER. PRINT SELLER.
Pictures Cleaned, Restored, and Framed on the Premises.
THE CELEBRATED LEAMINGTOX PORK PIES.
J. WATSON,
CONFECTIONER, FANCY BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER,
14, Gloucester Street, Royal Leamington.
The favour of your continued patronas^e and recom-
mendation is respectfully solicited.
46 LEAMINGTON AD-\-EBTISEMENTS.
THE " OEIGINAL "
Steam Dyeing and Cleaning Works.
G. B. STRATTON.
17, PARK STREET, LEAMINGTON SPA.
P^stablished over half a Century.
Established 18(58.
WATTS AND CO'S CLARET STORES,
61, CLARENDON ST., Leamington Spa.
Clarets; — Direct from growers to save intermediate charges
From 12s. to 100s. per dozen. Higli-class Ports and Sherries of
the best vintages, ver\- old, in bottles. Roussillon and other
Champagnes of best brands. Old matured Whiskies (Scotch,
Irish and Welsh). Small parcels of old Cognac (Otard's vintage
1820, Gautiers Freres' vintage 1848. J Store Prices.
IF'. J. BTJI^BTJIE^ir,
PORK BUTCHER,
S6, Yin^VIlGK ^TI^EET, DE^jaiN6'Fe]V[.
FARM-FED PORK.
Pork Pies. Pork and Heef Sausages made fresh every morning.
Home-cured Smoked Hams and Bacon.
Every article in the trade made to order.
9, DENBY BUILDINGS, LEAMINGTON SPA.
GRAVES,
Sealskin Jackets and all kinds of Purs Cleaned, Dyed, and
Altered to the Present Fashion. Ladies' Furlined Cloaks Altered
and Recovered. Skins Dressed. Kugs Cleaned and Renovated.
LEAMIXGTOX ADVERTISEMEXTS. 4/
E. G. CROWHURST, M.R.C.V.S.L.
Fellow Royal College Veterinarj- Surgeons, Honorary Fellow
London Veterinary Medical Association. First Prizeman 1863.
Successor to the late Mr. ^^'. T. Stanley. Veterinary Infirmary
for Horses and Dogs. Shoeing Forges and Turkish Baths for
Horses. REGENT GROVE. HOLLY WALK. LEAMINGTON.
Horses examined as to soundness. Attendance and Medicine for
Horses, Cattle, Dogs, kc. Horses Shod on most approved
scientific principles. Thoroughbred Stallions, including Queen's
Premium and Wmner of 1st Prize £200 and Twenty guinea Gold
Medal Koyal Agricultural Show, Warwick. Stud Farm, Myton.
Loose Boxes, Yards and Paddocks, with every accommod-dtion
for Mire and summering Hunters, at reasonable terms.
JOHN LEWIS^
ENGLISH AND FOREIGN TIMBER MERCHANT,
AND
Dealer in all Kinds of Building Materials.
GREAT WESTERN SAW MILLS,
OLD WARWICK ROAD,
AND
30. CKANDOS STREET, LEAMINGTON SPA.
ROAD VAN)
SAFETY&
:RTIRESATISF4i
MOUSELL BROS.,
REMOVAL CONTRACTORS AND STORERS,
WINDSOR STREET, LEAMINGTON SPA.
I'incst and Cleane.-t Warehousing Booms in the Midhnds.
ESTIMATES FREE.
48 WARWICK AI)\'ERTI.SE>IE.VTS.
JOHN MAR6ETT8 & SONS,
AUCTIONEERS,
SURVEYORS, AND ESTATE ACENTS,
WARWICK.
FIRM :— John AVm. Margetts, F.8.I., J. Herbert Margetts,
Wm. Haines Margetts.
Telephone, No. 8. Telegrams, "Margetts, WAr.wiCK,"
ESTABLISHED OYEE 100 YEABS.
F^OBEF^T JHUTTON,
LAND AND ESTATE AGENT,
Agent to Mrs. A. C. Faibfax-Lucy, Charlecote Park.
Estates Managed for Resident and Non-resident Owners.
GUARDIAN ASSURANCi: COM FAS Y.
Fire and Life. Ocean. Accident and Guarantee Corporation.
WARWICK ADVERTISEMENTS, 49
UNDER ROYAL mM^imm PATRONAGE,
30, HIGH STREET, WARWICK.
Antiqiie Silver. Souvenir Spoons,
Old English Chiming Clocks, &o.
THOS. HORTON, M.R.C,V.S.,
-^j}C2o, -^ Jury t 3treet, 4- Warwick. ^Ik-
infirmary AND SHOEING FORGE, CASTLE LANE.
Horses kept at Livery or Summered in Boxes or Yards.
CHARLES WILSON,
NURSERYMAN, SEEDSMAN, FLORIST,
I3ulb Merchant, and Horticultural Sundriesman,
101 and 120, BIRMINGHAM ROAD,
WARWICK.
THOMAS ELLIOTT,
MONUMENTAL AND GENERAL MASON,
67 AND 69, SALTISFORD, WARWICK.
All kinds of Monumental Work in Marble, Stone, or
Granite. Estimates given for R(>i)airs to all kinds of
Alasonry. Pulpits, Fonts, and RcTedos neatly executed.
Tile Floors and Hearths neatly laid. Considerable
Expei'ience in (Church Restorations. Sole Charge of the
Restoration of Warwick High Church.
50 COVENTRY ADVERTISEMENTS.
K EM L WORTH AND COVENTRY.
WHITTINDALE :• & :• DYER,
AUCTIONEERS, VALUERS, LAND & ESTATE AGENTS,
28, 29 and 30, Hertford Street, COVENTRY;
And at KENILWORTH.
Valuations of Estates, Tenant-right, Farming Stock, &c.
Weekly Cattle Sales, Register of Landed Properties and
Residences for Sale or to Let.
ARTIFICIAL TEETH ON THE NEW SUCTION PRINCIPLE.
V/ARRANTED FOR ALL PURPOSES.
IMPORTANT NOTICE.
THE DENTAIi PRACTICE OP
32, HERTFORD STREET, COVENTRY,
Will, in fiitiiie, be canieil on under tlie personal supervision of MRS.
FLETCHER, slie having acquireil a thorough knowledge in every Branch
during the last 14 years, assiste<l by a qualified Dental Surgeon. Teeth
stopped, scaled, and regulated. Painless extraction by nitrous oxide gas.
ALL CHAR G ES STRICTLY MODERATE.
TWO HARD FACTS !
BONE'S NERVE TONIC is a positive and quick curer of Neuralgia,
Toothache, Headache, and all Nervous Pains I ! It never fails ! ! !
It is a new aud scientific remedy introduced by A. A. Bone (late Chemist at
Guy's Hospital, London), and is entirely different to anything .before the
public. .S'A'i' you' GET IT!
T. LOVEITT & Co.,
OPERATIVE CHEMISTS,
THE LABORATORY, BROADGATE, COVENTRY.
RELIABLE ENGLISH-MADE WATCHES.
M
Established 1856.
ANUFACTUKER of all kinds of English Gold and
Silver Lever WATCHES, keyless aud key-winders.
13, Hertford Terrace, Queen's Road, Coventry.
COVENTRY ADVEBTISEMENTS. 51
( V VKNTR Y. CO VENTR Y.
PATKNT
TUBULAR •;• BELLS
FOK CBURCIIES.
And for all Buildings where
Bells are required.
Tiihtdar BdU arc bettar and
chijapir tlalii th'i obi form,
of Bell.
For Testimonials and Prospectus apply to—
HARRINGTON, LATHAM & CO.,
FLEET WORKS, COVENTRY.
SjVIITjH t/cND ^ MobESWORTH,
Manufacturers of the "ALERT" CYCLES.
52 STRATFORD-OX-AVON ABVERTISESrEXTS.
ESTABLISHED OVER 100 YEARS.
SADDLERY, HARNESS, HORSE CLOTHING, &c.,
FOR HOME AXD EXPORT,
C. THOMAS & SON,
'2i, BRIDGE STREET, STRATFORD-ON-AYOX.
SIDE SADDLES.
The Improved Level Seated Side Saddle, -with Open
Gullet, Balance Strap, Patent Safety Stirrup, and Set of
broad Girtlis, £11 Us. Tlie above is made on a new
principle, with our special improvements which effectually
prevents galling the horse's back, at the same time giving
greater ease and comfort to the rider. It is the best and
cheapest Side Sadille that can be obtained.
HUNTING SADDLES.
Tliese are unsurpassed for style, durability, and comfort,
while the price is exceedingly low, with Stirru])S, StiiTUp
Leathers, and narrow Girths, £5 10s. to £6 6s.
THE FLEXIBLE SADDLE.
The Flexible Saddle is a real luxury, and is highly
appreciated wherever introduced, and is equally durable
as the ordinary hunting saddle. Complete as above, £6 10s.
HARNESS.
This is made from carefully selected material, is all hand-
sewn, the quality and workmanship is of the highest
possible class. Single and Pair-Horse Full-Sized Sets
from £7 10s. to £35.
The aljoce rjuotations have heen girtnj'or superior qv.alily only.
Gestlemex Ordering Saddles should please state Height & Weight.
SHIPPING ORDERS CAREFULLY ATTENDED TO.
C. T. & SOX are justly enabled to claim that they have
gained wide reuown for the superiority of their goods, as
a few subjoined Testimonials from ' among others will
amply testify.
STEATFORE-OX-AVON ADVERTI.SEiIENT8. 53
TESTIMONIALS.
Sherborne House, Warwick.
(From John Jarrett, Ksq.) 16th April, 1862.
I beg to inform you that tlie Side Saddles with which
you have supplied my daugliters, give me great satisfaction,
and 1 believe them to be, in many respects, superior to the
ordinary side saddle.
1vidderminster,^ark Hall,
• 1st June, 1865.
(FromW. Grazebrooke, Esq., Hon. Sec. to the Albrightou
Hunt).
I have every reason to be pleased with the Flexible
Saddle I had from you in September, 1863. I have had it
in regular work, liave had no sore back, and consider
materials and workmanship very good.
rRESTEiGN, Radnorshire,
3rd June, 1865.
(From Tom Olia^er Hunt, Esq., Surgeon).
I have much i)leasure in stating that the Flexible
Saddle you su])plied me Avith has given me every satisfac-
tion, and to those persons, es])ecially, who are compelled to
be on horsebaclv many hours, it is most comfortable and
easy.
India, IDth Sept., 1884.
(From the Lord Bishop of Lahore).
From the Bishop of Lahore to Messrs. Thomas, with
thanks for promptness of execution, and thinks the work
excellent.
Avon House, Tunbridgb "Wells,
3rd Sept., 1887.
(From Lt.-Col. Grey T. Skipwith.
A friend of mine has been so pleased with the saddle
you made for me, that he has asked me to get one for him.
I'lease make and send it out as soon as possible to Bombay,
c/'o Messrs. Grindley, Groom and Co., per Suez Canal
Steamer.
Bradley Hall, Wylaji-on-Tyne.
26th Sept., 1890.
(From Owen Wallis, Esq.)
Many years ago, my father who then lived in Northamp-
tonshire, l)ought Hunting Saddles from you. They had
soft plyable seats, and, I fancy, half-trees. I write to
ascertain if there is still such a business as yours in
Stratford-on-Avon, and I hope to tind that your firm still
continues, as I should like saddles similar to the old ones.
64 ADVERTISEMENTS.
LAMBERT,
GOLDSMITHS, ^ JEWELLERS,
AND SILVERSMITHS,
TO H.jVl. THE QUEEN,
United States Legation for upwards of 50 years.
Largest Collection of Second-Hand
Plate in the World.
COVENTRY ST., PICCADILLY, LONDON, W.,
ENGLAND*
THE
LEAMINGTON •:• SPA ■:• COURIER
AND
Pkice 2d. By Post 2iD. Published Saturday.
The Best Local Newspaper in Shakespeare's Land.
Church Walk, Leamington Spa.
THE
PEODUCES
Pi'iiltiii^ of l<vei'y ©e^di'iption
On the Shortest Notice.
Estimates Giaen. Estimates Given.
ADVERTISEMENTS. 55
HUMBER & Co., Ltd.
THERE IS
NO BETTER MACHINE
ON THE MARKET
THAX OUR
No. 1 HUMBER SAFETY,
" The glass of fa.s]iiou and the mould of form,
The observed of all observers."
Ihuuhi, Ar/ .:, .<,,: 1.
BEESTON, NOTTS.
.Ifi ADVEKTISEMEXTS
A Large Collection of Old English and Shakespearean
Curved Oak Furniture, collected from Stratford-
on-Avon and District.
Grandfather Carved Oak Hall Clocks from ... £3 10s.
Ditto Chimney Clocks ,, ... £1.5 Os.
Carved Oak Hall Dower Chests ... „ ... £1 10s.
Hall Settles, High Backed Box Seats „ ... £2 10s.
AVriting Tables, fitted Avith Escritoire „ ... £2 10s.
Carved Oak and Plain Old Church Panelling from Is. per foot.
Overmantles and Fireplaces, Bureaus, Bookcases, Cliina,
Cabinets, Old P]ight-Legged Tea Table, Hall Tables,
Cromwellian and Tudor Cliairs, Chippendale and other
Antique Furniture.
China, Pictures, Curios, dc, always in Stocl<.
All Purchasers and Collectors should visit or "write to
§iil(avb's Carbcb #ak Depot,
Sketches, Photos, and Yievi's Free on Application.
All kinds of Antiques Repaired, Stored, and Packed.
All Estimates Feee.
THE LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
Santa Barbara
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