/A^ NASBY IN EXILE: OR, SIX MONTHS OF TRAVEL IN England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, WITH MANY THINGS NOT OF TRAVEL. BY (PEtTDlBUin "Sr. Nasby.) PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED. TOLEpO AND BOSTON : Locke Publishing Company. 1882. L75 COPYRIGHT, 1882, By DAVID E. LOCKE\ ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. I': Blase Pbinttng and Paper Co., Printers and Binders, TOLEDO, O. PREFACE. On the afternoon of May 14, 1881, the good ship " City of Richmond,'* steamed out of New York harbor with a varied assortment of passen- gers on board, all intent upon seeing Europe. Among these was the writer of the pages that follow. Six of the passengers having contracted a sort of liking for each other, made a tour of six months together, that is, together most of the time. This book is the record of their experiences, as they appeared origin- ally in the columns of the Toledo Blade. It is not issued in compliance with any demand for it. I have no recollection that any one of the one hundred thousand regular sub- scribers to the Toledo Blade ever asked that the letters that appeared from week to week in its columns should be gathered into book form. The volume is a purely mercantile speculation, which may or may not be successful. The publishers held that the matter was of sufficient value to go between covers, and believing that they were good judges of such things, I edited the letters, and here they are. The ground we went over has been gone over by other writers a thousand times. We went where other tourists have gone, and what we saw others have seen. The only difference between this book and the thousands of others that have been printed describing the same scenes, is purely the difference in the eyes of the writers who saw them I saw the countries I visited with a pair of American eyes, and judged of men and things from a purely American stand-point. I have not attempted to describe scenery, and buildings, and things of that nature, at all. That has been done by men and women more capable of such work than I am. Every library in America is full of books of that nature. But I was interested in the men and women of the countries I passed through, I was interested in tlieir ways of living, their industries and their customs and habits, and I tried faithfully (V) 849557 VI PREFACE. to put upon paper what I saw, as well as the observations and com' ments of the party that traveled and observed with me. I have a hope that the readers of these pages will lay the book down in quite as good condition, mentally and physically, as when they took it up, and that some information as to European life will result from its perusal. As I make no promises at the beginning I shall have no apologies to make at the ending. It is only justice to say that much of the descriptive matter is the work of Mr. Robinson Locke, who was with me every minute of the time, and the intelligent reader will be perfectly safe in ascribing the best of its pages to his pen. I can only hope that this work, as a book, will meet with the same measure of favor that the material did as newspaper sketches. D. E. L. Toledo, Ohio, June 39, 1882. ILLUSTRATIONS. No. Pagk 1. Frontispiece. 2. The Departure 18 3. "Shuffle Board " 23 ' 4. The Betting Young Man from Chicago 24 5. " Dear, Sea-sickness is only a Feminine Weakness," 27 6. Lemuel Tibbitts, from Oshkosh, Writes a Letter 29 7. Every Sin I Had Committed Came Before Me 33 8. Off for London 35 9. Public Buildings, London 36 10. The Indian Policy 39 11. The Emetic Policy 39 12. A London Street Scene 45 13. A London Steak 50 14. *' And is the Them Shanghais ? " 53 15. Sol. Carpenter and the Race 60 16. Leaving for the Derby 62 17. By the Roadside 64 18. English Negro Minstrelsy 66 19. The Roadside Repast 67 20. The Betting Ring 73 21. " D n the Swindling Scoundrel " 74 22. Egyptian Room, British Museum 76 23. A Bold Briton Trying the American Custom 79 24. A London Gin Drinking Woman 80 25. The Poor Man is Sick 81 26. " That Nigger is Mine " 82 27. St. Thomas Hospital .• 92 28. Interior of a Variety Hall 95 29. The Magic Purse 98 30. The Man who was Music Proof 100 31* Madame Tussaud 102 32. Wax Figures of Americans 103 33. " Digging Corpses is all Wrong " 105 34. Improved Process of Burke and Hare 106 35. Isle of Wight 107 36. The London Lawyer 110 37. The Old English Way of Procuring a Loan 118 38. " Beware of Fraudulent Imitations " 120 39. The Old Temple Bar 122 40. The Sidewalk Shoe Store 125 41. '• Sheap Clodink " 127 42. "Dake Dot Ring" 133 43. A Lane in Camberwell 135 44. The Tower of London 136 45. The Jewel Tower 140 46. Sir Magnus' Men 142 47. Horse Armory 144 48. St. John's Chapel 145 (Vii) Vlll ILLUSTRATIONS. No. Page 49. St. Thomas' Tower 146 50. General View of the Tower 147 51. The Bloody Tower 148 52. Drowning of Clarence in a Butt of Wine 149 53. The Byward Tower from the East 150 54. The Beauchamp Tower 151 55. The Overworked Headsman 152 56. The Persuasive Rack 153 57. The Byward Tower from the West 154 58. The Middle Tower 155 59. The Beef Eater 156 60. The Fhnt Tower 157 61. The Traitor's Gate 158 62. What Shall We Do with Sir Thomas? 159 63. The Easiest Way 160 64. The Suits Come Home 163 65. The Candle Episode 168 66. The Little Bill 169 67. Getting Ready to Leave a Hotel 169 68. The Last Straw 170 69. The Cabman Tipped 170 70. The Universal Demand 171 71. The Lord Mayor's Show 173 72. A Second Hand Debauch 175 78. The Anniversary Ceremonies 178 74. Iq the Harbor 179 75. IsleofWight 182 76. The Unfinished Entries in the Diary 184 77. Westminster Abbey 186 78. Exterior of the Abbey 187 79. Entrance to the Abbey 188 80. The Poet's Corner 191 81. Henry VII. 's Chapel 193 82. Chapel of Edward 197 83. Effigy Room 200 84. The Abbey in Queen Anne's Time 201 85. " If She Ever Miscalculates She's Gone," 204 86. The Death of the Trainer 206 87. The Gorgeous Funeral Procession 207 88. Monument to the Trainer 208 89. The Side Show Zulu 210 90. The Lost Finger 212 91. On the Thames 218 92. Sandwiches at New Haven 222 93. Off Dieppe— Four A. M 224 94. " Have You Tobacco or Spirits ?" 225 9>. Fisher Folk— Dieppe 227 96. Fisher Women— Dieppe 228 07. Fisher Bov and Child 229 98. The Boys of Rouen 232 99. Rouen 233 100. The Professor Stood Before it 234 101. Cathedral of Notre Dame 235 102. House of Joan d' Arc 235 103. Harbor of Rouen 236 104. St. Ouen— Rouen 238 105. The Showman in Paris 240 106. Bloss' Great Moral Spectacle 241 107. Tower of St. Pierre 242 108. Old Houses— Rouen 242 109. The Professor's Spectacles 245 ILLUSTRATIONS. IX No. Page 110. Old Paris 246 111. Liberty, Fraternity, Equality 247 112. New Paris 248 113. The Louvre 250 114. A Boulevard Cafe 252 115. A Costume by Worth 253 116. A Magazine on the Boulevard 254 117. Mr. Thompson's Art Purchases 256 118. The American Party Outside a Cafe 259 119. The Avenue de L'Opera 261 120. Cafe Concerts 262 121. The Faro Bankeress 266 122. French Soldiers 267 123. Parisian Bread Carriers 269 124 Queer — to Frenchmen 271 125. The Porte St. Martin 272 126. A Very Polite Frenchman 275 127. " Merci, Monsieur !" 277 128. Paris Underground 279 129. Interior of the Paris Bourse 280 130. The Arc du Carrousel 282 131. " How Long Must I Endure This ?" 285 132. Tail Piece 286 133. The Mother of the Gamin as She Was 288 134. The Mother of the Gamin in the Sere and Yellow Leaf 289 135. The Aged Stump Gatherer 290 136. A Talk with a Gamin 294 137. The Mabille at Night 305 138. A Mabille Divinity 306 139. Professionals in a Quadrille 309 140. A Male Dancer 310 141. The Grisette 311 142. Meeting of Tibbitts and the Professor 314 443. The Cafe 'Swell 316 144. Tail Piece 318 145. Beauvais Cathedral. 319 146. Struggle for the Kingship 322 147. Of the Commune 326 148. Tibbitts and Faro Bankeress 330 149. Tail Piece 331 150. Palais Royal 333 151. Vision of the Commune 335 152. Mother and Bonne ' 337 153. The Youthful Bonne 338 154. The Aged Bonne 338 155. " Who Put that Ribbon in your Cap?" 345 156. Corrective Used by Mr. Tibbitts 348 157. The Coco Seller 349 158. In Any of the Parks 358 159. The No-Legged Beggar Woman 360 160. How the French Sport Kills Game 362 161. Fishing in the Seine 363 162. Inside a Paris Omnibus 364 163. The Showman Shown the Door 365 164. The Tell Catastrophe 368 165. Zoological Room 369 166. Cork Harbor 370 167. Queenstown 371 168. Irish Woman and Daughter 375 169. A County Cork Cabin 377 170. Interior of Better Class Cabin 378 X ILLUSTRATIONS. No. ' Page 171. Royal Irish Constabulary 379 172. Interior of Cabin 380 173. A Quiver Full 381 174. Street in an Irish Village 384 175. Blarney Castle 385 176. Free Speech in Ireland 387 177. In a Bog Village 389 178. "Drop the Child !" 391 179. Nature's Looking Glass 393 180. Irishman of the Stage and Novel , 394 181. The Evicted Irishman 395 182. To Market and Back 396 183. The Real Irish Girl 397 184. A Small but Well-to-do Farmer 398 185. Sketches in Gal way 402 186. Affixing Notice of Eviction 406 187. Eviction 407 188. The Eviction we Saw 408 189. Evicted 409 190. Farming in County Mayo 410 191. My Lord's Agent 413 192. Kind of a Girl My Lord Wants 414 193. The Woman who Paid the Poor Rate 416 194. Conemara Women • 418 195. At Work in the Bog 420 196. Duke Leinster's Tenants 422 197. Tenant Farmer 424 198. In a Discontented District 4