690 R502R5 m ROBINSON'S GUIDE TO RICHMOND: COMPRISING HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE NOTICES OF THE CASTLE, MONASTIC REMAINS, WALKS, VIEWS, &c. EMBRACING ASKE AND ROKEBY. WITH SIX LITHOGRAPHIC PRINTS. RICHMOND : W. R. ROBINSON, BOOKSELLER, STATIONER, ANB BOOKBINDER, ETC., KING-STREET. MDCCCXXZHI. CONTENTS. Page- Archery . . . .44 Arthur's Oven ... 30 Aske Hall . . . .48 Ballad, ancient ... 87 Blackburne, Archdeacon . . 93 Bowes's Bede House . . 85 Castle of Richmond . . .12 Cataractonium ... 86 Chapel, Trinity, (Market-place) . .19 Church, Parish ... 21 Church-yard, lines written in .61 Clink Bank ... 25 Coins, &c., found at Richmond . . 85 Confessional, ancient, in the Castle . 15 Cuit, notice of his life * . 82 Easby Abbey ... 27 Egglestone Abbey . . .17. 56 Friars of Richmond . . 87 Friary . . . .35 Harris, Lord, invitation to Richmond 64 Ibbetson, Julius . . .83 Invitation to Richmond, poetical . 64 Jenkins, Henry . . 46 Knowles, Herbert . . 60 Tl Methodist Chapel . . .35 Mortham Tower ... 55 Paintings at Aske . . .48 Painting, ancient 85 Paper Mill .\ . . 39 Plants, rare, list of . . 67 Queen Elizabeth, ancient Portrait of . ; 85 Richmond, origin of . . . 9 Rokeby . . . .53 Rokeby, Felon Sow of . . 87 Roman Catholic Chapel . . 37 Round Howe ... 38 Saint Agatha's Abbey, Easby . .-27 Saint Martin's Priory . . 25 Saint Nicholas's Hospital ...... . 33 School. Grammar ... 25 School, National ; . . . 25 Scots' Dyke . , . 31 Sedbury . . . .52 Statuary at Aske . . t 51 Tate, Rev. James , . .25 Tate, Rev. James, addresses to , 97 Tate, Mr. J. . . . 100 Temple, llev. Anthony , , 95 Views, description of , . .40 West Field , . .38. 43 Wycliffe, John . . .58 Yorke's Grounds. . . 37 LIST OF THE PLATES. Richmond Castle and Bridge, to face the title. Richmond Castle and Force . . p. 17 Abbey of St. Agatha, at Easby . 27 Richmond Castle from the S. W. . . 41 View on the Greta ... 53 Fitz Hugh's Tomb, and Mortham Tower . 56 ROBINSON S GUIDE TO RICHMOND, THE town of Richmond is indebted for its origin to the commanding and almost impregnable site which its prominent Hill afforded for the erection of a Baronial Castle. When the Norman Conqueror had completed the subjugation of the Saxons, he portioned out the lands of their nobles among such of his country- men as had supported him by their counsel and courage, and shared the dangers of his daring en- terprise. Among these, Alan le Roux, or the Red, was distinguished for his fidelity and bravery, and about the year 1069 he was rewarded by his royal master with the dignity of an Earl, and the more substantial guerdon of the whole possessions of Edwin, the Saxon Earl of Mercia. His Yorkshire domains comprised no less than 164 Manors, and 10 the chief mansion was situate at Gilling, about three miles to the north of Richmond. Finding, however, the policy, if not the necessity, of erecting a larger and stronger fortress, he began, about the year 1071, the foundation of Richmond Castle ; and by virtue of his rank as Earl or Count,* his newly acquired territories were styled a County^ under the name of Richmondshire. As regards the name given to the place by its princely owner, Dr. Whitaker alleges that as it was built on a barren rocky he must have called it Rich-mount merely from a feeling of partiality : but surely it is more reasonable to suppose that the Mount was then covered with the dense luxu- riance of a natural forest, which would furnish the builders with a rich supply both of timber and firewood. The erection of so large a pile of buildings must naturally have drawn together a number of artificers and labourers ; and after it had become the residence of the Earl and his standing force of military followers, the supply of his household, and the security from rapine, would induce traders and small landowners to settle around its walls. Thus began the borough of Richmond, and in the year 1145, it had so far increased in numbers and im- portance, that the Earl granted to his burgesses of Richmond, "His borough and the land of Fon- tenay." * Earl is the Saxon, Count the Norman designation for the same dignity. 11 The town was next surrounded with walls and gates : but the steady administration of just laws has long since rendered them unnecessary and they have all been removed as useless obstructions, ex- cept the Bargate Bar, on the west side of the castle hillj and the Friars' Postern, in Friars' wynd. The government of the town, and the manage- ment of its corporate revenues, are vested in a mayor and twelve aldermen, who are assisted by a recor- der, town-clerk, and other officers. The weekly market is held on Saturday ; the charter-fairs are two, one of them on the Saturday before Palm Sunday, the other on the Saturday after Holy-rood day., There is, also, a toll-free fair for horses at Can- dlemas. The borough stills continues to send two mem- bers to Parliament. The present representatives are Sir Robert and the Honourable John Dundas. u2 12 THE CASTLE. THE first object which attracts the admiring gaze of the stranger on approaching Richmond, is its no- ble Castle ; once the abode of a princely and pow- erful race, allied both by blood and subsequent marriages to the royal family of England. Its first foundation, as previously mentioned, was laid by Alan the Red, the first Earl of Richmond, somewhere about the year 1071. Dr. Whitaker contends, that as the Castle of Rich- mond is not mentioned in Domesday Book, it could not have been commenced until after the completion of that document in 1086. He forgets, however, that the surveys, from which domesday was compiled, were made at different times, during several years previous to its completion, and that the survey of this part of the kingdom might, perhaps, be taken at a very early period of the work. But again, we read in domesday, (as cited by Coke 1, Inst. 5 a) " Comes Alanus habet in suo Cas~ tellatu 200 maneria, et prater castellariam habet 43 maneria;" now this clearly implies the existence of a castle some where or other within the two hun- dred manors which composed the castlcry, and as domesday does not mention any other castle within the district, the castellatus may surely be presumed as referring to the new erection, at Richmond, 13 On approaching the ruin, we first enter an open space in front of the Great Tower. This was termed the inner bailey, and was surrounded by strong walls, some fragments of which remain : the entrance was defended by two round towers, enclosing the massive gate, before which was the drawbridge, cros- sing the deep moat which encircled the town side of the castle. Passing through a small door, we enter the area of the castle, and proceed to the great square Tower, or Keep, which was erected in the year 1146, by Conan, the third Earl of Richmond. This stupendous monument of feudal quarrels, is ninety-nine feet high ; its base at the outside is fifty- four feet long, by forty-eight feet wide; and the walls are no less than eleven feet in thickness. The lower apartment is covered with a groined roof, rest- ing on a strong octagonal pillar ; at the foot of which is a well, which supplied the garrison with water. It had been constructed when the tower was built, as part of the pillar is hollowed to accord with it. This room was used as an arsenal to contain the military stores of the fortress, and admitted no light from without, except through the large arched door- way, which is supposed to have been the entrance into the castle before this tower was built in front of it. In one corner is a winding staircase, projecting from the wall, leading up to the next story, which contains a spacious apartment, lighted by three round headed Norman windows, larger than are usual in such build- ings ; and also a small room, or closet, at the corner, within the thickness of the wall, The roof of this 14 story has fallen in, but from the next story the stair- case is carried within the wall to the top of the tower. There are, also, various other recesses in the wall, lighted by loop-holes, which, probably, served as sleeping rooms for the soldiers. Passing along the eastern wall of the castle, we come to a lesser Tower, in the basemeHt story of which is a small vaulted Chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas ; its walls are lined with niches for seats, and at the east end is a small window, in a spacious recess, which contained the altar, with a closet on each side, where the chalice, mass books, &c., might be deposited. The rooms above were, perhaps, the apartments of the priest, who, in those dark times, was a very necessary appendage to a nobleman's establishment : not merely in his religious character, but as the "clericus," the clerk or penman. He was frequently the only person in the place who could boast of an intimate acquaintance with the awful mysteries of reading, writing, and arithmetic, and consequently was often in request to write letters, or acquittances, and transact other temporal business for his lord. Proceeding along the wall towards the south-east corner, we reach some superior apartments; ol the first, the only relic is an elegant window, almost con- cealed in the clustering ivy, which covers the outside of the wall, and adds much to its picturesque beauty. The next is in a more perfect state the upper room has been lighted by a tall window, looking into the area of the castle, and has evidently been a private 15 chapel, or oratory, as appears by a small ueat piscina, in the south wall; in the bottom of which are two grooved holes for carrying away the sacramental wine, when accidentally spoiled by any insect or other im- proper admixture. Close to it is one of those singular relics of the Romish religion a confessional. It is an oblong loop-hole in the wall, neatly constructed with large dressed stones; it is narrow on the inner side, where the priest was seated, and opens wider in- to the next room, where the person "doing his shrift," might unbosom his failings without being seen by his ghostly adviser. How many a dark story of rapine, of intrigue, and of blood, has been whispered through this narrow cranny, where the winds now whistle unheeded !* Close to this interesting spot, is a Tower, commonly termed the Gold-Tower, from the bottom of which is an arched passage, leading, most probably, to some concealed vaults ; but tradition, which delights in the marvellous, asserts that it passes under the bed of the river to the priory of St. Martin's ! In the extreme south-east angle, has been a well lighted and (relatively speaking) comfortable room, which Norman gallantry would, probably, appropriate to the ladies of the castle, as their " bower," or private boudoir. We now enter the great Hall of the castle; the scene, long since, of many a stately feast, and many a noisy carousal ; it takes its name from Scolland, lord * This Chapel seems to have escaped the notice of all previous Topographers. 16 of Bedale, and purveyor to earl Alan. The five -win- dows to the south, overlook the Swale and its opposite banks ; the principal entrance was by a flight of steps from the court ; and there are also the remains of a spiral staircase in the north-west corner, which ser- ved for internal passage. The lower apartment was, probably, used as a servants' hall, or dining room for the common soldiers, &c. From hence was the en- trance to the cellar, and also a sally-port leading into the t4 cock pit." Just at the end of the hall of Scol- land, where the wall breaks off even with the surface, is a seat which commands a romantic view of the Swale. His late Majesty George the Fourth, whose taste for the beauties of natural scenery was remark- ably vivid and correct, visited the spot whilst prince of Wales, and expressed his high gratification by de- claring it to be the noblest prospect he had ever beheld. Along the south wall of the castle were ranged the kitchen, bakehouse, brewery, &c., and as this side of the castle was impregnable to the modes of attack then in use, they offered no obstructions to the de- fence, in case of a siege. In the south-west corner, stands a solitary Tower, the lower part of which was the dungeon, or place of confinement; it was entered from above, and the wretched occupant would be al- most entirely debarred the cheering light of day, as there appears to have been no doorway or window whatever to it. Close by, is a large round headed arch, supposed to have been the west window of the larger, or public 17 chapel of the castle; in which six monks, from Eggleston Abbey, were engaged by John I. Earl of Richmond, to celebrate perpetual masses for the souls of himself and his wife, &c. Of this chapel, there are no other remains, 'except a postern under the win- dow, intended probably for iihe convenience of the monks. To the east of the main wall of the castle, is an inclosed space, called the Cockpit, which was also sur- rounded with a strong wall, and included, on the north side, within the castle moat. It seems, however, to have formed no part of the original structure, and has, most probably, been afterwards taken in, to prevent any hostile force from making a lodgement so nearly on a level with the castle itself. It contained a garden for the use of the garrison, and is now entirely cul- tivated as such. The castle has not been the scene of any remarkable incident recorded in the page of history. It stands, as it has stood for ages past, a silent ruin ; Leland, who went through the town between 1530 and 40, de- scribes it as tf in mere ruin," and even so long ago as the fifteenth year of Edward III. a judicial inquiry, made on the oaths of twelve "good and lawful men," informs us with legal precision, that the castle was considerably out of repair, and that "nihil valet per annum^" in plain English, it was " worth no-pounds a year." It seems to have been first dismantled under an order to that effect, made by King John, in the eighteenth year of his reign, but was, after- 18 wards, partially inhabited by the various retainers who claimed apartments by virtue of their offices. It is now the the property of His Grace the Duke of Richmond, who derives his title from it : and in fact, it is the only portion of the extensive domains granted to the first Earls of Richmond, which remains annexed to the title. The broad and commodious Terrace Walk, round the base of the castle, next demands attention : and it is here that the superiority of the Yorkshire Richmond Hill over her Surrey namesake, is more de- cidedly marked. The view from the latter presents a monotonous flat of quiet luxuriance; but here the eye is charmed with a rapid succession of the most picturesque objects. The sloping banks, covered with foliage of varied hues ; the clear stream, mur- muring over its rocky bed, beneath the deep shadows of the trees which line its banks, the towering bat- tlements above, the precipitous descent at our feet, the foaming cataract, and the placid pool ; and all these moulding into different combinations at the dis- tance of a few paces, form a series of views rarely equalled in so small a compass. 19 IN the centre of the spacious Market-place, stands the TRINITY CHAPEL, an uncouth looking building : its origin is lost in the mists of antiquity, but it is said to have been re-built about the year 1360. In 1712 it ceased to be used as a place of worship, and was for some years in a ruin- ous condition ; but about 1744, it was again repaired by the corporation, who claim the appointment of the minister. The north aisle (which fronts the Market- place) is partitioned off, and used as the Consistory court for the archdeaconry of Richmond. It may here be noticed, as a singular fact, that, five hundred years ago, a kinsman of the well known Prince Talleyrand tie Perigord) was archdeacon of Richmond! Elias Tal- airand was appointed to that dignity by the Pope, in the year 1322: in his letters of collation, he his sty- led u germanus nobilis viri Archambaudi comitis Pe- tragoricensis," i. e. "the cousin-german of the noble gentleman, Archambaud, count of Perigord." In the list of archdeacons annexed to the history of Rich- mond, he is, by a casual mis-translation, styled "a German," without mentioning the Perigord family. At a little distance is the Market Cross, erected in 1771 ; beneath it is a reservoir, calculated to contain about twelve thousand gallons of water, which is brought from Aislabeck spring, about two miles dis- tant, and distributed from this point to the different parts of the town. c2 20 Behind the Trinity chapel is the Guild, or Town- hall, containing the court where the borough sessions are held ; and a spacious room used for public meet- ings, &c. 21 PASSING along French-gate, we eome to the PARISH CHURCH, A plain and substantial structure, dedicated to St. Mary. The date of its erection is unknown, but the shape of the three windows nearest to the porch in the south aisle, warrants a conjecture, that it was built some time about the year 1300, or a little earlier. The great east window in the chancel, the west win- dow in the steeple, and that at the east end of the south aisle, are fine specimens of the style termed "perpendicular English," which prevailed at the lat- ter end of the fourteenth and beginning of the fif- teenth century, when the church was, most probably, enlarged and beautified, so as to accord with the altered fashion of the times. The most remarkable objects, are the beautifully carved stalls, ranged along each side of the choir, which, with the elegant screen, &c., forming the Rector's pew, were brought from Easby Abbey, at the reformation. They appear to have been con- structed only a short time previously to their removal, as a scutcheon, over the mayor's stall, bears an enig- matic device, intended to represent the name of "Abbot Bampton," who presided over the abbey at the time of its dissolution, in the year 1539. Among the graceful tracery which runs along the top of the pew and stalls,* are the disjointed fragments of an 22 inscription in the old black letter, it merely enume- rates the ten abuses of monasteries, &c. In the large east window, are several heraldic paintings, " Scutcheons of honor or pretence, " Quarter' d in old armorial sort, "Remains of rude magnifience." At the top, on the right, are the three golden horse shoes, the arms of Fountains Abbey on the left, are the arms of John II. earl of Richmond,* who died in 1333. Beneath, in the central compartment, are the ancient royal arms of England ; to the left of which, are the arms of Christopher Urswicke, L.L.D., archdeacon of Richmond in 1493 j and to the right, is an uncoloured shield, bearing the outline of a lion rampant and mascled ; it is not known to whom the latter arms belong. To the extreme left, is a shield, bearing an antique merchant's mark, with the initials, & Z3 in the old black letter. Whilst the privilege of wearing coat-armour was jealously confined to those who were descended from " gentil bloude," the weal- thy traders contented themselves with using, as their heraldic badge, the private mark which each of them was in the habit of inscribing on his bales and casks. Local topographers have often been puzzled in attempt- ing to explain their meaning, but the churches at all the old commercial towns, contain numerous merchants This nobleman stood high in the favor of King Edward the Third, but, by his prudent conduct, lie escaped the public odium which proreil to fatal to Gavaston and Despcuier. 23 monuments, displaying devices of this kind. The roof of the chancel, also deserves attention : the junctions of the pannels have been adorned with ar- morial shields; these, however, have all been removed, except that nearest the pulpit, which, though much faded, has originally been blazoned Or, bordered and fretty sable ; on a canton sable, a chalice Or. They appear to be the arms of an ecclesiastic, and have, probably, been adopted by some rector of the parish, sprung from an obscure family. In the right wall of the chancel, is a curious monument of the reign of Charles I. to the memory of Sir Timothy Hutton, of Marske, and his family; beneath which, are placed on a stand, an ancient copy of Fox's book of martyrs, and the works of Bishop Jewell. The pillars which divide the aisles from the body of the church, are of a very massive character, and rudely executed. In the east side of the south pillar, which divides the chancel from the nave, are two small closets, with strong oaken doors and locks, which were used, in popish times, for safe custody of the consecrated wafer, or host. On the corbels at the outside of the east window of the southern aisle, are the arms of Fitz-Hugh, three chevronels braced in chief, and a plain chief; and Aske, of Aske hall, three bars. The steeple seems to have been erected, or raised to its present height, by Ralph Neville, earl of Westmoreland, to whom the castle and honor of Richmond were granted by King Henry IV. in the year 1399, as his arms stand carved 24 on its western battlement. Those of Fitz-Hugh also occur again at the top of the north buttress. The last object that engages our attention, is the ancient octagonal font, carved out of a single block of the grey Tees marble. On each of its faces is a shield, six of which are now plain ; on the eastern and west- ern sides there remain the letters rht and t fct. The absence of initial, or capital letters, and the dis- jointed state of the letters, lead us to infer, that these are only the relics of an inscription which (as in nume- rous other instances) originally ran round the font, and which, as the edifice was dedicated to St. Mary, would probably, address her by her then customary titles, thus, " To Mary, the blessed virgin, the queen of heaven, the mother of Christ," and this in the ab- breviated monkish latin, would fill up the eight shields, as follows, | ila | vie | bgn | the | me | alt | mvi [ rhf. The early reformers would, of course, on the restora- tion of the worship of the Almighty, feel it their duty to remove an inscription so directly countenancing the adoration of saints : and they accordingly appear to have chiselled off the whole, except the name of Christ, and the letters on the opposite side. The patronage of the church formerly belonged to the abbey of St. Mary, at York, to whom it was granted by their liberal benefactors, the earls of Richmond ; it is now vested in the crown. Not many years since, one thousand and fifty was the utmost number that could be seated in this building, but by the praiseworthy exertions of the present rector, the 25 Rev. William Barnes, several new pews have been added, end new galleries erected, containing about four hundred and forty sittings, most of which are free to all. On leaving the church, we proceed to the short Terrace Walk, at the top of the church yard, leading to the Rectory. Here a delightful vista opens to the eye. On the left is the Clink Bank, thickly clothed with wood, and resting on the slanting stratum of rock, which, rising abruptly out of the river, harmo- nizes remarkably with the perspective. Just at our feet is>the FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOL, Erected by the burgesses of Richmond, and endowed with the lands which belonged to numerous obits, chantrys, &c., with which the town abounded, during the prevalence of the Romish religion. It is scarce necessary to mention that the school has flourished for many years under the mastership of the Rev. James Tate, whose pupils have long been notorious at Cambridge for their wrangling propensities. On his recent appointment to the dignity of Canon residentiary, of St. Paul's, his son, Mr. James Tate, was unanimously elected as his successor. At a little distance to the left, is the National School, where two hundred and twenty boys and girls receive a useful and religious education. To the right, on the opposite side of the river, stand the humble and scattered remains of the D 20 MONASTERY OF ST. MARTINS, A Cell of Benedictines, belonging to the abbey of St. Mary, at York, founded in the year 1100, by Wyomar, or Wymar, Lord of Aske, and purveyor to the earl of Richmond. On the dissolution of Monasteries, it was granted by Edward VI. to Edward Fynes, Knt., Lord Clinton and Saye ; and it is now the property of Mr. John Ward, of Richmond. This Priory seems to have been erected on a con- tracted scale, and few of its buildings are now remain- ing. To the right stands a Tower, which appears to have been the principal entrance, with (perhaps) the Record Room over it. On the left is the Chapel, which is entered by a beautifully carved Anglo-Nor- man doorway, enriched with zig-zag mouldings, and which may be referred to a date anterior to the year 1200. The windows are also of an elegant form, but apparently of a later date. Proceeding down the hill, past the grammar school, an undulating walk, (enlivened by frequent glimpses of the castle and surrounding scenery, through the openings among the trees) leads through the Clink Bank Wood, and thence along the bank of the Swale, to the noble ruins of the Monastery of St. Agatha, usually called 27 EASBY ABBEY, Originally founded in 1152, by Roaldus, constable of Richmond Castle, and inhabited by Canons of the Praemonstratensian order, or " White Cano'ns." Its revenues were afterwards considerably augmented by the Lords Scrope, of Bolton, \vho, from this circum- stance, procured a lease of the Abbey and Lands from Henry VIII. at the dissolution. It is now the pro- perty of Robert Jacques, Esq., whose substantial mansion stands on the top of the hill, at a short dis- tance from the ruins. The enclosure in which the abbey stands, is entered by a door near the Mill. It is now impossible to iden- tify the exact uses to which the different parts of the building were applied, but a few of the principal apartments may be clearly recognized. Nearest to the parish church, stands the Great Hall, or Refectory, 102 feet long, by 27 wide. The floor was supported by groined arches, resting in the centre on a row of pillaus. At the east end is a large pointed window, the beautiful tracery of which is almost entire. It belongs to the era of Edward II. or III. At the opposite end is the fire-place, and, in the lower apartment, is a door-way which led by a flight of steps to the Great Kitchen. There are, also, six other elegant windows on the south side, the second of which, from the east, appears to have been used as the Reading Gallery, from which portions of the Fathers, and other Theological Works 28 were read to the Monks at meal times, by one of their brethren. To the west stood the Kitchen, the great fire-place of which is very perfect : and adjoining to this, the Pantry, Cellar, &c., yet remain entire. At the north-cast of the Refectory, are the walls of another large room, 46 feet long, by 21 wide, supposed to have been the Chapter House, and which was lighted by a very large east window, in the Tudor style of architecture; this window has frequently been taken for the principal entrance, but a slight examina- tion of the side walls, will shew that it did not descend to the floor ; the holes are also distinctly visible, which admitted the iron cross bars, and even the groove which received the edge of the glass 1 , is decidedly marked. Within the middle arch, on the south side of the room, may be traced a doorway, now walled up, which led into the lower story of the tower, to which, it has always been supposed, there was no access except from above.* Over the Chapter House was another apartment, also lighted by a handsome east window, and said to hare been the Scriptorium where the monks em- ployed themselves, previously to the invention of printing, in transcribing such works as their library afforded, or in copying and illuminating missals, and other books used in their church service. On the opposite side of the inner court, near its south-west corner, stands a richly adorned Anglo- Norman doorway, consisting of two clusters of round * Clarkioa's History of Richmond, i>,370, columns, supporting a circular arch, covered with three rows of carving, the two inner ones consisting of the heads of wild animals, and the outer one of foliage. This is, probably a relic of the ancient edi- fice built by the constable Roald, and was preserved by lord Scrope on his enlarging and rebuilding the abbey. Adjoining to it, of a more modern date, are two ornamented niches, (surmounted by a pointed arch and other carvings) each of which contained an image, but one only remains, in a very mutilated state. Returning to the eastern side of the court, we may next notice the abbey Church, which projects out to the eastward, beyond the neighbouring buildings. Within the northern wall are two recesses, in which stood, as tradition reports, the monuments of the founder and his wife. Between this part of the building and the chapter house, are the remains of what is said to have been the south transept of the abbey church ; but a glance upwards will discover, in the higher story, a fire-place and other architectural arrangements, which seem to give it a more domestic character. Further to the north, are the private apartments of the Abbot and his personal attendants, among which may be noticed, a fire-place and chimney in a very perfect condition ; and a little beyond, j ia the upper story, are two doorways, opposite each other, of a singular construction. Still further, (and on the right hand side) is the private chapel, or oratory, of the abbot, lighted by a handsome east window, near to which is a small neat piscina. At the northern 30 extremity of the ruins, doirn a narrow descending passage,; is an arch, which tradition points out as the entrance of a subterraneous passage, either to the Castle or to St. Martins, It was, probably, nothing more than a drain communicating with the mill-race which runs past the abbey, a few yards to the west.* On the Green, to the south of the ruins, stands a venerable half-decayed tree, which still retains the name of THE ABBOT'S ELM ; and on the river side is the ancient Barn, &c., belonging to the abbey : the oaken woodwork of the Roof is an interesting speci- men of old carpentry. Passing the Parish Church, (which contains several fragments of stained glass, formerly belonging to the abbey,) we approach the great gateway of the abbey. The entrance on each side is under a double arch of singular construction; at the first glance it might appear that the pointed arch being found insufficient, the circular one has been added to support it : but on a nearer inspection, it will be perceived that this could not be the case, as the capitals of the columns consist each of an entire stone, supporting, at the same time, the round and pointed arches. The upper apartment was the Record Room, in which the abbots' courts were held, and the charters and other muniments belonging to the abbey were preserved : it is now used * Grose, hi his description of Kirkstall Abbey, notices a similar report of a subterraneous passage, and remarks, that "there Is scarce an old Monastery in England but has some such ridiculous story told f it." 31 as a granary. It is lighted by three small windows, of elegant dimensions and workmanship. The different parts of the abbey hare suffered much from the fragments being carried away for other uses, as well as from the corroding hand of time. It will always be a matter of regret, both to the antiquary and the man of taste, that these splendid buildings were allowed so generally to fall into a dilapidated state : but surely no rational and reflect- ing person, whether of the Romish or English Church, can deliberately wish for a return of those "good old times," when the noble murderer, and the titled marauder, were led to expect pardon and eternal hap- piness, provided they spent a portion of their ill gotten wealth in founding Monasteries, where lazy monks might prolong the dreary repitition of masses for their souls' repose. ABOUT half-way up the hill, on the road leading to the Tillage of Easby, is a remarkably distinct Echo. Passing through the village of Easby, towards .Richmond, we arrive at a very interesting object which crosses the Richmond and Darlington road, just at the point where it meets the Easby Lane the SCOTS' DYKE a rude earthen embankment and trench, supposed to have been a boundary between the Britons and Picts before the arrival of the Romans. There can be no doubt that it is more ancient than the walls of Adrian and Severus, as the latter appear to 32 hate been cut through it. It enters England at a place called Wheelfell, between the rivers North- Tyne and Read, passes into the county of Durham at Shorn Gate Cross : crossing the Tees at Winston, it comes past Stanwick, hither : and after crossing the Swale, and up St. Martin's pasture, it stretches by Sand-beck over Hudswell MOOT. On the brow of the Hill, commanding a fine pros. pect ; stands a building generally known as 33 ST. NICHOLAS'S, A Hall or Mansion House, erected about the time of Elizabeth, or James I. on the site, and probably out of the remains, of the ancient HOSPITAL of ST. NICHOLAS. The date of its original foundation is unknown, it is supposed to have been built by one of the first earls, but in the year 1448, the building and its revenues having both fallen into a ruinous condition, it was repaired and re-endowed by Sir William Ayscough, one of the judges of the court of common pleas. It was inhabited by a few monks of the Benedictine Order, under the government of a master, and combined the various uses of a house of entertainment for wayfaring men, and of an infirmary for the sick. There are few remains of the ancient Hospital, but the detached building nearest to the road, is said to have been the Chapel ; and there has lately been found the ponderous stone Mortar, in which the brethren of the establishment pounded and mingled those multifarious messes which the physicians of that age dignified with the astounding titles of " Mirhridates" and " Catholicons." There is also to be seen, the ancient Bell which summoned the inmates to their devotions. The modern building is in tolerable repair, the wings being both inhabited ; but the entrance hall in the centre, with the apartments over it, are in a more neglected condition. There are some remains of an- cient moulded cornices, and carved wainscoting; 34 and the Grecian Corridor in front, is in a very perfect state. The whole building bears a good deal of resem- blance to Fountains Hall, which was erected much about the same time, out of the ruins of the adjoining abbey. On again entering the town, we pass the sites of the ancient Hospital, or Maison-Dieu, which gives name to the street ; and of a Cell, formerly the abode of an anchoress, from whom the rising ground to the right has acquired the nautical name of Anchorage HilU A little further, screened from the road by a row of dwarfish elms, is Hill House, the residence of H. W. Yeoman, Esq.; and continuing our route towards the Market-place, we approach 35 THE FRIARY, Anciently tenanted by Franciscan, or Grey Friars, for whose residence it was founded, by Ralph Fitz Randal, lord of Middleham, in the year 1257. It now belongs to the Robinson family, whose substan- tial mansion stands near the ruins. There are scarcely any remains of the Friary j " Each Gothic arch, memorial stone, " And long, dim, lofty Aisle, are gone," except the Tower, a rich and elegant specimen of the latter English, or Tudor style, which may fairly be termed an architectural Bijou. It had been erected only a short time before the dissolution, and tradition reports that it never was finished. Two of the west windows of the south transept are yet standing, but the stone tracery has been broken down. The foun- dations of the Church, or that part of the building which was used for celebrating divine service, may be distinctly traced in droughty weather. On the rising ground, to the north of the Friary, is Prior House, the residence of Thomas lanson, Esq., and at the bottom of the noble Avenue, to the east of the ruins, is the mansion of Thomas Stapleton, Esq., appropriately named ^ c The Grove." In Ryder's Wynd, at a short distance, stands the Wesleyan Methodist Chapel, a plain unpretending edifice, ca- pable of containing about five hundred persons. E2 36 We often find the pages of Guide Books eked out with allusions to the melting emotions and sublime lucubrations excited by the examination of ancient ruins. The compiler of this little manual, being a plain spoken Yorkshireman, will not pretend to emulate these aforesaid sentimentalists; but he believes that the quiet species of excitement which is congenial to many thinking minds, may often be successfully courted by a walk on that part of the terrace in Quaker Lane which commands a view of the Friary and Castle- Keep, from half-an*hour to an hour after sun-set, on a still, warm, clear evening. 37 COMMENCING again from the Market-place : To- wards the end of Newbiggin stands the Roman Catholic Chapel, erected in the year 1809, by the late Sir John Lawson, Bart., of Brough. In the Gallery Window is a painting of the Crucifixion, on glass, copied from Rubens's celebrated picture, preserved in the Church of the Recollets, at Antwerp. Nearly opposite is the Debtors' Gaol for the liberty of Richmondshire, which is held by his Grace the Duke of Leeds, as chief bailiff of the liberty. Proceeding a little further to the right, we enter through a small private door, the varied and secluded pleasure grounds usually known as the " Yorke Grounds," which were attached to the mansion of the Yorke family, that lately stood in the south-east corner. The walk first descends a sloping terrace, and then winds through the wood, abounding with ancient and grotesque yew trees, natural and artificial grottos, &c., along the margin of the river. There are several pleasing views both of the castle and the town, and also of the romantic valley which lies to the westward. The naturalist will observe a beau- tiful species of Geranium : and the Nut-hatch, a bird of rare occurrence in the northern counties, is sometimes seen among the woods. The Tower, on the brow of the hill, was erected to commemorate the victory of Culloden. Returning into the street again, we come to the Arsenal for the Military Stores of the North York Militia : and a little further to the left, is the parish Workhouse, a neat modern edifice. Passing the 38 Workhouse, the road leads directly into the West Field. The walk to the summit of the hill will be amply repaid by the romantic and extensive prospect which it presents. Immediately in front is the town of Richmond: the massive solemnity of the castle keep, contrasting finely with the spruce neatness of the modern buildings, and the elegant lightness of the Friary Tower ; beyond are the woods of St. Nicholas and Easby and far behind these stretches a wide expanse of fertile country, bounded by the Hambledon Hills. To the right we overlook a delightful valley, watered by the windings of the Swale, and enclosed on tke opposite side by a steep and lofty wall of limestone rock, half covered with foliage. Here the admirer of classic lore may trace in fancy the haunts of Pan and his attendant Satyrs, while the laugh of the sportive wood nymphs seems to mingle with the faint murmer of the stream. But how did human wisdom betray its very folly, when the masters of the world could be content to revere and worship a host of sensual and besotted demons? How much more rational, how far more delightful is it to lift up the heart in holy ardour to the glorious giver of all good, and exclaim in the glowing language of the royal poet, O Lord, how manifold are Thy works ! in wis- dom hast Thou made them all : the earth is full of Thy riches ! Still further to the right, on the opposite side of the river, we have a distinct view of that singular phenomenon, the "Round Howe" a conical hill rising out of the area of a natural amphitheatre, the 39 sides of which are covered with hanging wood. It is not improbable, from the pebbly nature of the soil, that the course of the river has originally wound round the south side of the mount ; but the continual action of the stream against the opposing side of the angle, to the north, had gradually worked a bay or recess, and some extraordinary flood would then sweep directly across the neck of land to the north of the mount, and produce the present channel ; after which the old one would gradually warp up to its present condition. In the adjoining limestone cliff, are several clefts or recesses, one of which, somewhat larger than the rest, is known by the name of Arthur's Oven. There are also traces of copper ore, but it has never been found in sufficient quantities to re-pay the expense of working it. The only manufacture carried on at Richmond is that of Paper, in the mill belonging to Mr. Henry Cooke, situate on the bank of the river, opposite to the Round Howe, The Paper is here manufactured in webs of great length, and afterwards folded and cut into any shape or size which may be required. 40 VIEWS. THE views about Richmond, which claim the atten- tion of the tourist, are so many and varied, that it is difficult to make a selection for description. Almost from any side of the town the scenery is beautiful; but as a sort of Guide to strangers, it may not be amiss, briefly to describe those which may be consid- ered the most attractive. I. The view of Richmond Castle from above the bridge, has its peculiar beauties above any other, by reason of the spectator's low situation. From this point the castle is a magnificient object in the land- scape, being so much elevated above the beholder. To the left is seen part of the town, while Trinity Church, the Friary, and the Cross in the Market- place, agreeably break the line of house tops, run- ning to the left. Nearer the foreground, the Bridge is a good object, contrasting with the picturesque cottages adjoining, and situated close to the edge of the river. Further to the left is seen Yorke's Tower, or Summer House, on the summit of the hill, partially hid from view by the trees which surround it, this naturally forms the boundary of the picture to the left. To the right is a beautiful sloping wood, the foliage f. * .*... _, 41 of which appears to overhang the bridge, and forms an excellent boundary on the other side of the picture. II. The next view I shall attempt to describe is that from the foot-road leading to Hudswell, along the top of the wood. This is quite a panoramic view of Richmond, and has been considered strikingly fine by lovers of picturesque scenery; it commands a prospect of all the country round to the north and east bounded by the Hambledon Hills. In this view, like all the others described, the castle is a prominent object in the centre of the picture. The river, winding in a serpentine course amidst richly wooded banks, gives to this landscape a delightful charm. III. From the top of the hill to the south, opposite the bridge, we have a good view of the castle : from this point it may be seen to great perfection. Mr. Turner, the celebrated landscape painter, made a drawing from this spot, to illustrate Whitaker's Richmondshire, and his choice of the station is a sufficient precedent for pointing it out. IV. In a field about two hundred yards above the Clink Pool, we have a good subject for the pencil ; the castle being considerably elevated, and in an evening 42 in the summer season, when in shadow, it casts a very deep gloom over the surrounding objects beneath, while the foreground, and the trees on the other side of the river, are tinged with the golden rays of the setting sun. This view has something of the Swiss character about it, and is generally selected for sketching, by strangers, being quite of a different character from any of the other views described. From the road, over the Clink Pool, is another though more distant view of the same subject and although the latter was selected by Mr. Turner for a drawing, I think the one described above equally good. V. The views from the Gallow Fields* should not be omitted. From this side of the town the castle and houses appear to stand in a valley, and the eye extends over a rich tract of well wooded country for many miles to the east, Easby Abbey may be seen from this point, and being of a warm grey colour, it forms an agreeable contrast to the surrounding wooded scenery. The river is also seen winding its course close past the venerable ruins, and is abruptly lost in the wood beyond. The name of these Fields, and of the Gallow HilT, near Bowes, is explained by an ancient record preserved in Gale's Register of the Honor of Richmond, from which we learn that the ancient Earls claimed the high prerogatives ot " Infangtheof and Utfangtheof, with a Gallows at Richmond and at Bowes." Happily for society, these petty exclusive Jurisdictions have now entirely ceased througout the Kingdom, 43 VI. There is a very pleasing view of Richmond and the surrounding country from the western extremity of the West Field, and well worth the attention of the tourist. From this place the Round J/ozce, and the rocky banks of the Swale, have a highly picturesque effect. The winding course of the river, through, or rather round, Yorke's Grounds, add much to the beauty of the landscape, though in composing a pic- ture, this view is meagre and formal in the foreground, for want of a sufficient quantity of wood. F2 44 BEFORE the English nation attained the naval superiority of which she now so justly boasts, the main defence of the kingdom lay in the stout arms and sturdy hearts of the yeoman-archers ; and however the prowess of individual knights might be extolled, the archers, as a body, were the main agents in gaining those victories which, though productive of no direct benefical consequences, gave England a temporary advance in the scale of nations. The use of fire-arms banished from the field both the lance of the knight and the bow of his vassals ; but the use of the latter is still preserved "as a wholesome exercise for the health and strength of mens' bodies," and has been zealously kept up for a number of years by the in- habitants of Richmond and the neighbourhood. The earliest record of the Richmond archers, is a body of regulations drawn up in the year 1673 : they award, as the captain's prize, a Silver Arrow, which still continues to be shot for every year. It is sup- posed to have been the gift of Henry Calverley, Esq., by whom it was won at the first contest after the regulations were established. In addition to this, 45 a subscription Silver Cup has been annually contested for, ever since the year 1818; and is given to the archer who pierces the target nearest to its centre : this prize, moreover, is renewed yearly, and becomes the property of the winner ; whilst the arrow gives but an honorary possession until won by another; there are, also, several minor prizes shot for at the same time. 46 HENRY JENKINS. THE neighbourhood of Richmond has long been celebrated for the longevity of its inhabitants, and there are, at this day, several hoary villagers, who, if spared a few years longer, will enter the second century of their mortal career. All these, however, must as yet give place to the famous Henry Jenkins, who lived to realize more to-morrows than any other recorded inhabitant of these kingdoms. He was born before parish registers came into use; but from the account which he gave of his age at the battle of Flodden Field, he seems to have been about 169 years old at his death, which took place in 1670. There are but few materials extant for a biography of Jenkins, but this is owing to the very causes which produced his longevity, the regularity of his habits, and the absence of exciting vicissitudes in his condi- tion. He was born at Bolton-on-Swale, and seems originally to have been Butler to Lord Coniers, of Hornby Castle, where (as he informed Mrs. Saville) the jolly Abbot of Fountains was a frequent guest, and "did drink a hearty glass with his Lordship." He afterwards maintained himself for a long series of years by thatching, and fishing for salmon ; and it is recorded, that when he was more than one hundred years old, he used to swim and wade across the Swale with the greatest ease, and without catching cold. He 47 retained his faculties to the last; and such was the acuteness of his sight, that he made two artificial flies the year before his death. He was buried at Bolton, the place of his birth ; and besides a plain neat mo- nument in the church-yard, there is a long and pomp- ous epitaph to his memory in the church, put up by a certain Dr. Thomas Chapman, who is characterized by Bishop Hurd as " a vain and busy man." It is also remarkable, that Mrs. Saville's letter to Sir Reginald Graham, (from which the above ac- count is principally derived,) states that there were then (1661 or 2) four or five other people in the same parish, all of them reputed to be about 100 years old. 48 ASKE HALL ABOUT two miles from Richmond is Aske Hall, the mansion of Lord Dundas, backed by noble woods, and commanding an agreeable prospect over the sloping lawns in front. It is is a place of great an- tiquity, and was long the residence of a family of the same name ; but consisted merely of a square tower, (which still forms part of the present house) sur- rounded by bare and swampy fields. In this state it remained until it was purchased, in the year 1727, by Sir Conyers D'Arcy, \vho commenced those improve, ments which have now rendered it one of the most complete country seats to be found in the neighbour- hood. By the true English kindness of the noble owner, we are enabled to give the following list of the paintings and statuary in the different apartments. BREAKFAST ROOM. A full length portrait in half-armour, with falling collar and slashed hose, said to be Prince Henry, the eldest son of James I. Peter denying Christ, by Michel Angela da Cara- vaggio. Portrait of Earl Fitzwilliam, the grandfather of the present Earl. 49 Vessel in a calm, near the land, by Cuyp. Portrait of Lieutenant Colonel Dundas, of the 82nd Regiment, brother to the present Lord. This room also contains a pair of smaller pictures of aged men, and a number of small landscapes on copper. ANTE ROOM. A view of Aske, by Cuitt. A bust of the late Lord Dundas, by Chantry; a very striking likeness. Portrait of a favourite Horse of the late Lord Dundas, BLUE DRAWING ROOM. Over the fire-place, a Portrait of King George III. Zojfany. Portrait of a Gentleman, with a falling collar, playing on a guitar, said to be the Duke of Buck- ingham. ECCE HOMO, believed to be by Murillo. The Poultry Yard, by Hondekoeter. Portrait of a Lady, by Sir Peter Lely. Christ bearing his cross, said to be by Murillo. Portrait of the late dowager Lady Dundas, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. DEAD GAME, by Weeninx ; perhaps the best specimen of this master to be seen in the kingdom. 50 An Italian Landscape, by William Tarerner, Esq.* an amateur. There are also in this room a painting of a Girl in the dress of a boarder at a convent ; and two Scripture pieces. IN THE LIBRARY, Is a portrait of Sir Laurence Dundas, with his grandson, the present Lord, when about three years. old, by Zoffany. This scene is a most accurate representation of the interior of a room in the man- sion in Arlington Street, with pictures by Teniers, &c. IN THE GALLERY. A large family picture, representing Sir Laurence and Lady Dundas, the late Lord and Lady Dundas, with their Sons and Daughters in Spanish dresses, by the Rev. Mr. Peters* Full length portrait of King James II. in his robes. Full length portrait, said to be Lady Effingham Howard, daughter of the Countess of Effingham. Full length portrait of King George II. Full length portrait of Queen Anne. * This Gentleman is highly spoken of by Lord Orford, who mentions some pictures of his, "which,'' says his Lordship, " would have done credit to Caspar Poussin." 51 A full length portrait of William, Prince of Orange, afterwards King William III. of England, in the robes of a Knight of the Garter. LARGE DRESSING ROOM. Portrait of Sir Laurence Dundas. Full length portrait of the late Lord Dundas, painted at Rome, by Pompeio Bartolomeo. SCULPTURE. In the entrance Hall are two exquisite relics of antique Statuary, purchased by Lord Dundas, at Rome : the first, a Cupid, Was found in an excavation near St. John Lateran, in the very spot which historic evidence identifies as the site of Asinius Pollio's Villa. The right arm has been restored, but the head, though broken off and cemented, is original. Opposite to this is a Statue of Leda, in a re- markably good state of preservation. The Swan has been restored, but the head and the prominent right arm have not even been broken off; and it is very seldom that an antique Statue is met with, which has not sustained some such accident. If so rare a subject were to be found in any of the excavations at this day, equally free from defects, it would not be suf- fered to leave the imperial city. 52 The hall also contains two other ancient statues, and a striking Bust, in plaster, of the late Peregrine Wentworth, Esq. In the adjoining ante room, are copies, in marble, from the Venus and lesser Apollo of the Mediceai, collection ; a bust of the Hon. Mrs. Lane, his Lordship's daughter ; and a small group of two lions combatant. There is an extensive prospect oyer the surrounding landscape from the top of the Temple, a tall building which towers above the woods behind the hall, and is, in fact, built on the exact model of a Hindoo Tem- ple : and on Pinmore Hill (between Aske and Rich- mond) is a Tower, bearing the grotesque name of Oliver Ducket, which is said to be a perfect coun- terpart of a Hindoo Hill-Fort. On the opposite side of the valley, is the Park and ancient Mansion of Sedbury, formerly inhabited by a branch of the D'Arcy family, now the residence of the Rev. J. Gilpin, a descendant of the venerable Bernard Gilpin, justly styled "The Apostle of the North." V 53 ROKEBY IT would be a very difficult task to do justice to this place in the way of description, not only from its intrinsic beauties and the nature of its scenery, but from the associations it must have formed in the minds of every one who has read Sir Walter Scott's well known Poem. To the stranger, however, it will not, it is presumed, be entirely useless to direct him to some of the leading and most prominent objects which this delightful spot contains. But first, let the antiquary inspect the welt preserved Roman encampment lying between the river Greta and and a brook called the Tutta, close behind the George Inn, and surrounded by a triple ditch. The entrances are easily to be discerned. Very many Roman altars and monuments have been found in the vicinity, most of which are preserved at Rokeby. " Behold the boast of Roman Pride '. " What now of all yonr toils are known ? " A grassy trench, a broken stone !" After entering the Park by the South Gate, the road winds in a circuitous course through the grounds, and here and there a vista opens, affording an agreeable peep at Rokeby Hall, a plain and unassuming building of modern date, erected upon the site of 54 the ancient edifice. I shall here quote the description given by Sir Walter Scott, of the banks of the Greta, &c. " What follows, is an attempt to describe the ro- mantic glen, or rather ravine, through which the Greta finds a passage between Rokeby and Mortham, the former situated upon the left bank of the Greta, the latter on the right bank, about half-a-mile nearer to its junction with the Tees. The river runs with very great rapidity over a bed of solid rock, broken by many shelving descents, down which the stream dashes with great noise and impetuosity, vindicating its ety- mology, which has been derived from the Gothic Cixritfan, to clamour. The banks partake of the same wild and romantic character, being chiefly lofty cliffs of limestone rock, whose grey colour contrasts ad- mirably with the various trees and shrubs which find root among the crevices, as well as with the hue of the ivy, which clings around them in profusion, and hangs down from their projections in long sweeping tendrils. At other points the rocks give place to precipitous banks of earth, bearing large trees, inter- mixed with copse-wood. In one spot the dell, which is elsewhere very narrow, widens for a space to leave room for a dark grove of yew-trees, intermixed here and there with aged pines of uncommon size. Di- rectly opposite to this sombre thicket, the cliffs on the other side of the Greta are tall, white, and fringed with all kinds of deciduous shrubs. The whole scenery of this spot is so much adapted to the idea of superstition, that it has acquired the name of Blockula, 55 from the place where the Swedish witches were sup- posed to hold their Sabbath. The dell, however, has superstitions of its own growth, for it is supposed to be haunted by a female spectre, called the Dobie of Mortham. The cause assigned for her appearance is a lady's having been whilom murdered in the wood, in evidence of which, her blood is shewn upon the stairs of the old tower, at Mortham. But whether she was slain by a jealous husband, or by savage banditti, or by an uncle who coveted her estate, or by a rejected lover, are points upon which the traditions of Rokeby do not enable us to decide." MORTHAM. "The Castle of Mortham," (we still prefer quoting the notes to Rokeby,) "is a picturesque Tower, sur- rounded by buildings of different ages, now converted into a farm house and offices. The battlements of the tower itself are singularly elegant, the architect having broken them at regular intervals into different lights ; while those at the corner of the tower project into octangular turrets. They are, also, from space to space, covered with stones laid across them, as in modern embrasures, the whole forming an uncom- mon and beautiful effect. The surrounding buildings are of a less happy form, being pointed into high and steep roofs. A wall, with an embrasure, incloses the southern front, where a low portal arch affords an 56 entry to what was the castle court. At some distance is most happily placed, between the stems of two magnificent elms, the monument* alluded to in the text. It is said to have been brought from the ruins of Egglestone Priory, and from the armoury, with which it is richly carved, appears to have been a tomb of the Fitz-Hughs." " South of the gate, au arrow-flight, Two mighty elms their limbs unite, As if a living canopy to spread, O'er the lone dwelling of the dead ; For their huge boughs in arches bent, Above a massive monument, Carved o'er in ancient Gothic wise, With many a Scutcheon and device." "The situation of Mortham is eminently beautiful, occupying a high bank, at the bottom of which the Greta winds out of the dark, narrow, and romantic dell, which the text has attempted to describe, and flows onward through a more open valley to meet the Tees, about a quarter of a mile from the castle. Mortham is surrounded by old trees, happily and widely grouped with Mr. Morritt's new plantations." A little to the west of Rokeby, are the ruins of EGGLESTONE ABBEY, a small monastic house, inhabited formerly by Praemonstratensian Canons. The date of its foundation is uncertain, but the lancet shape of some of the windows, carries the erection of the existing * See the view of the tomb, plate No, 5, with a distant glimpse of Mortham Tower. IF E "IT S IE W HIS TTS!B,,m!E.IS1B'S" 57 building as far back as the middle of the thirteenth century, and it is said to have been founded by one of the Multon family, in the reign of Henry II. The church is in a very ruinous condition, but some of the domestic offices have been fitted up as cottages, and are now inhabited. At the foot of the eminence on which the ruins stand, is the boisterous stream, the noise of which will have attracted the stranger's attention. " Where Tees, full many a fathom low, Wears with his rage no common foe ; For pebbly bank, nor sand-bed here, Nor clay mound checks his fierce career, Condemned to mine a channelled way, O'er solid sheets of marble grey." This marble is the material of the font in Richmond church, above noticed, and also of the font at Bar- nard Castle. H 58 WYCLIFFE To the east of Rokeby is the parish of Wycliffe, which for a long series of years was owned by a family of the same name. They are first noticed in a record of the time of Edward I. and continued to hold the estate until the early part of the seventeenth century, when the eldest branch ended in female co-heiresses. There is strong reason to believe that the venerable Wycliffe, the translator of the bible, and " morning star of the reformation," was a younger brother of this family: and in the rectory at Wycliffe, is preserved a portrait of the Reformer, painted by Sir Antony More. This, however, could not be an original painting, as that Artist was a cotemporary of Edward VI. and Queen Mary ; and Dr. Whitaker conjectures that it has pro- bably been copied from an "illumination" in one of the manuscripts of Wycliffe's Bible. The chief argument against the reformer's connec- tion with this family, is the fact that his name is not found in their recorded pedigrees. It appears, how- ever, from their religious benefactions, and their connections in the Hierarchy, that they were warmly attached to the Romish Religion ; and as Vaughan, in his life of the Reformer, justly observes, "it is in the highest degree probable, that the difficulty of pla- cing Wycliffe's consanguinity with the patrons of Wycliffe beyond all possible suspicion, has arisen 59 purely from the efforts of his kinsmen to save their descendants from bearing the reproach of his enor- mous heresy." In fact, Wycliffe himself seems to allude to this circumstance in one of his tracts, -where, speaking of the difficulties which surround the pious children of worldly minded parents, he says, " For by so doing, the child getteth many enemies to his elders, and they say that he slandereth all their noble kindred who were ever held to be true men and worshipful." It should also be stated, that Leland, irt his description of Richmond, mentions a place which he calls Spfeswell) "a good mile from Richmond, the birth place of John Wicliffe." No village or hamlet of that name is to be found in Richmondshire ; and on this vague memorandum, which is not supported by any record or other authority, Dr. Whitaker has ven- tured to build a theory which fixes Hipswell as the Reformer's native village. But Leland himself, in his Collectanea, supplies evidence to the contrary. After describing the parish of Wycliffe, he adds " unde Wigclif haereticus originem duxit." It seems, how- ever, to be admitted on all hands that Richmondshire may boast the honor of his origin. Although the estate has passed, as above mentioned, into other families, the lineage of the "Wycliffes can be traced in undoubted succession, through a younger branch, to the late Mr. Wycliffe of Richmond, who died childless, about ten or twelve years ago. 60 HERBERT KNOWLES. OFTEN as the " Lines written in Richmond Church Yard" have been printed, a Guide to Richmond might well be deemed defective which omitted to repeat them. They are from the pen of an amiable and highly gifted youth, who was cut off at the early age of nineteen, whilst preparing, under the kind and assiduous tutelage of Mr. Tate, to enter on his studies at Cambridge. His friends, who were respectable manufacturers in the West Riding, had endeavoured to fix his mind to business, and it was not until he had run off and enlisted in the Artillery, that they con- sented to allow him to follow the bent of his aspiring genius. He had already attracted the notice of Mr. Southey, and high indeed were the anticipations of his future eminence ; but a few short weeks of disease hurried him off to the grave, where the " device" of the poet, and the " knowledge" of the scholar, are alike strangers.* Eccletiastlctu, iz. 10. 61 Lines written in the Church-yard of Richmond, Yorkshire. October 7th, 1816. It is good for us to be here : " If thou wilt, let us make here three tabernacles ; " One for thee, and one for Moses, and one for Elias." MATT. xvii. 4. Methinks it is good to be here : If thou wilt, let us build but for whom ? Nor Elias nor Moses appear ; But the shadows of eve, that encompass the gloom, The abode of the dead and the place of the tomb. Shall we build to Ambition ? Ah, no ! Affrighted he shrinketh away ; For, see ! they would pin him below, In a small narrow cave, and begirt with cold clay, To the meanest of reptiles a peer and a prey. To Beauty ? ah no ! she forgets The charms which she wielded before : Nor knows the foul worm that he frets The Skin, which but yesterday fools could adore, For the smoothness it held, or the tint which it wore. 62 Shall we build to the purple of Pride The trappings which dizen the proud? Alas ! they are all laid aside, And here's neither dress nor adornment allow'd, But the long winding sheet and the fringe of the shroud. To Riches ? alas ! 'tis in vain Who hid, in their turns have been hid The treasures are squander'd again And here in the grave are all metals forbid, But the tinsel that shone on the dark coffin lid. To the Pleasures which mirth can afford The revel, the laugh, and the jeer ? Ah ! here is a plentiful board ! But the guests are all mute as their pitiful cheer, And none but the worm is a reveller here. Shall we build to Affection and Love ? Ah, no ! they have wither'd and died, Or fled with the spirit above Friends, brothers, and sisters are laid side by side, Yet none have saluted, and none have replied. Unto Sorrow ? the dead cannot grieve Not a sob, not a sigh meets mine ear Which compassion itself could relieve ! Ah ! sweetly they slumber, nor hope, love, nor fear, Peace, peace is the watch-word, the only one here. 63 Unto Death ? to whom monarchs must bow? Ah, no I for his empire is known And here there are trophies enow ! Beneath, the cold dead, and around, the dark stone, Are the signs of a sceptre that none may disown. The first tabernacle to HOPE we will build, And look for the sleepers around us to rise ! The second to FAITH, which ensures it f ulfill'd, And the third to the LAMB of the great sacrifice, Who bequeath'd us them both when he rose to the skies! HERBERT KNOWLES, JE. XIX. Die dl 1th February, 1817. 64 As a contrast to these touching stanzas, the reader is presented with the following humorous verses, addressed by a lively old lady to her Cousin, COLONEL (afterwards LORD) HARRIS, on his return to England after his victory over Tippoo Sultan. The latter part would, of course, be most interesting to the parties concerned, but as the piece really seems too good to be mutilated, it is thought best to give it entire. Dear Colonel, in London, I beg you won't stay, But to Richmond, post haste, with all speed come away; Nor sigh with regret when you leave the great city, For here, I can promise you many things pretty. Without doors, the prospects are fine, all allow ; And why they are so, I will just tell you how ; But, ere I proceed, I'll convince you they're fine, On the strength of a judgment superior to mine ; When Lord Newark was here, he declared in a hurry, That Richmond in Yorkshire, beat Richmond in Surry. Here are Hills for high-minded, and vallies for low, Thro' which old Swale's waters delightfully flow ; Here are forces and mills, and meadows so green, And the finest of Cattle that ever were seen, I should like 'em much more, if I fear'd not their horns. Here are Streets, but not pleasant to those who have corns. 65 On the top of a mount, stands a Castle sublime/ Though ' t has suffer'd indeed, from the teeth of old time. Three abbeys from thence you may see with your eyes, In a state which all true Antiquarians most prize, For in many parts, not a stone stands on another, And one turret nods rounds in vain for a brother. A most beautiful Steeple, ('twas built for the Friars,) Which no one e'er sees, but he greatly admires : Two Churches, a Church Yard, a Parsonage, a School House, Where the boys study latin, and how they may rule us. Here's a Play-house, a Bowling-green, Assemblies, Card Meeting, Horse Races, Militia, and a Club for Tripe eating ; And some people say, you'll not taste better Ale, 'Twixt the banks of the Ganges and those of the Swale. For Companions here's people of various conditions ; Parsons, Lawyers, Apothecaries, Priests, and Physicians : Here are Gentlemen too, which some say the best trade is, And plenty of every description of Ladies. Here's a Widow of ninety, will give you a hugging, And Ringers who long at the ropes to be tugging. Three miles out of town lies the sweet vale of Gilling, Which often to visit, I'm sure you'll be willing, i 66 For there's Lakes,* and there's Ruins, there's Forests and geeses ; * A kind loving Sister, and six Nephews and Nieces ; Who long to embrace you with welcomes most hearty, And your presence, your Honor, will rejoice the whole party. So much for abroad ; and now in your house, Here's a little black Cat that won't suffer a mouse : Two Maids, who for scrubbing and cooking, and such useful labours, Will not turn their backs to the best of their neigbours. Here's a plump rosy Girl, full of frolic and glee, And a nice little Miss, as you'd e'er wish to see. Here shall meet you a couple of sturdy rude Boys, Who will stun you with questions, and jumping, and noise, And to sum up the whole, here's your old loving Cousin, Who longs to salute you with kisses a dozen. Some of our readers will recollect the "Gilling Waters," which by the patent of poetic license, are here ennobled into a Lake. 67 APPENDIX, No. I. A List of the rarer Plants growing in the neighbourhood of Richmond. ACER CAMPESTRE, Hedges in the foot-road to Easby. Actea spicata, Whitfell Gill, near Askrigg, Wens- leydale. Adoxa moschatellina, common under hedges, &c. jEgopodium Podagraria, Low Back-house-ing. Alisma ranunculoides, in a Pond on Downholme-moor- Allium vineale, Castle-bank, near the Rookery at Easby. Allium oleraceum, Gallow-gate, upon a wall. Anagallis tenella, Druggon Hill, near Scotton. Antirrhinum majus, old walls in Cravengate. Aquilegia vulgaris, Applegarth abundant Aysgarth Force, Wensleydale. Arabis hirsuta, St. Agatha's Abbey, on the ruins. Arenaria verna, banks of the Swale, west of Richmond. Artemisia vulgaris, Bolton-on-Swale. Asplenium viride, Aislabeck. adiantum nigrum, Clink Bank Wood. Aspidium aculeatum Smith, Downholme Park Gill. angulare Smith, ditto ditto lobatum Smith, Billy Bank. i2 68 Aspidium oreopteris, Whashton Bank. Avena pubescens, West Field, Richmond. BERBERIS TULGARIS, on the ruins of St. Agatha's Abbey. Bidens cernua rar. radiated, Bolton Beck. tripartita, Bolton Beck. Blcchnum boreale, Aislabeck. Blysmus compressus, St. Trinian's Pond. Botrychium Lunaria, on the east side of the Round Howe. Brassica campcstris, on the banks of Gilling Beck. Napus, in a Corn-field near Clapgate Bank. CALAMAGROSTIS LANCEOLATA ROTH, in a marshy wood near Hipswell Lodge. Calamintha officinalis, Castle Bank. Callitriche autumnalis, in pools of water on Down- holme Moor. Camelina saliva, in a corn-field near Clapgate. Campanula glomerata, Gallow Fields. latifolia, Hedges and Thickets. Cardamine amara, Clink Bank, pratensis Jlor : plena, in a marshy pasture at Sandbeck, in the road to Scotton . Carex ampullacea, near Scotton. marsh near Skeeby Mill. binervis, Black Plantation, on the road to Kirkby Hill. curta, Downholme Moor: dioica, Downholme Moor. divulsa, in the road to Easby. CEderi, nearClapgateBank. 69 Uarex flava & fulva, on the north-west of the Beacon in marshy ground. pallescens, moist pastures near Skeeby. paniculata, marshy ground near Sedbury. pendula, Clink Bank. pilulifera, Downholme Moor: pulicaris, near Hipswell Lodge, stellulata, Hipswell Lodge. vesicaria, in a Pond near Stt Trinians. vulpina, Broken Briar, in the Lane. Carlina vulgaris, Whitcliffe Scar. Catebrosa aquatica, St. Trinians Pond. Centaurea scabiosa, Gallow Fields. Cerastium arvense, Castle Bank. Chelidonium majus, in the lane to Skeeby. Chrysosplenium alternifolium, and oppositifol : Billy Bank, Cichorium Intybus, in corn-fields from Skeeby to the High-Street. Clematis Vitalba, in Mr: Yorke's Grounds. Circaea lutetiana, in Billy Bank Wood. Clinopodium vulgare, Clink Bank. Cnicus heterophyllus, new bridge oyer the Swale near Downholme. Cochlearia omcinalis, on the banks of the Swale. Colchicum aut umnale. West Field. Comarum palustre, Downholme Moor. Convallaria majalis, Round Howe. multiflora, banks of the Swale, opposite Applegarth. Conyolvulus Sepium, Clink Bank. 70 Cornus sanguinea, Clink Bank. Round Howe. Cynoglossum officinale, in the lanes about Richmond. DAPHNE LAUREOLA, in the woods about Richmond. Mezereum, near St. Trinians. on the Islands in the Swale, below the Force. Digitalis purpurea, Aislabeck. Dipsacus pilosus, Applegarth, Draba incana, on rocks on Reeth Moor, Swaledale. Drosera rotundifolia, Black Plantation. ELEOCUARIS FLUITANS, in Ponds on Downholme Moor. pauciflora, in moist places on a moor near the Beacon. Epilobium angustifolium, banks of the Swale at Ap- plegarth. . tetragon um, Aislabeck. on the top of the West Field. Epipactis latifolia, Aske Wood. palustris, near Skeeby Mill. Equisetum sylraticum, Sandbeck, in the road to Scotton Erigeron acre, on the ruins of St. Agatha's Abbey. Eriophorum polystachion, marshy ground near Hudswell. . pubescens Smith, Aysgarth Force, Wensleydale. Erysimum Cheiranthoides, in the lane to Reeth, near the Hagg. Euonymus europaeus, Clink Bank. Euphorbia exigua, corn-fields near Skeeby. FESTUCA ELATIOR, banks of the Swale, loliacea, moist meadows near Richmond. 71 Festuca Myurus, near Leyburn, in the road to the Lime Kilns. GAGEA LUTEA, Bent Hagg, behind the Farm House, in a wood opposite to Applegarth. Galeopsis Ladanum, in corn-fields at Applegarth. versicolor, in a corn-field at Thorpe, about three miles west of Richmond. Galium boreale, banks of the Beck between Skeeby and Brompton. Mollugo, near Skeeby Mill. pusillum, Applegarth, on Limestone. cruciatum, Hedge Banks, &c. Genista anglica, Aislabeck. tinctoria, near the Paper Mill. Gentiana amarella, Race Course. campestris, Whitcliffe Scar. Geranium lucidum, old walls about Richmond. columbiuum, Applegarth, Aysgarth Force. pusillum, Applegarth. phoeum, Aske Wood. sylvaticum & var, in Woods common. Geum urbanum, Clink Bank. intermedium, Billy Bank Wood. Gnaphalium dioicum, Aislabeck, sylvaticum, Aislabeck. Gymnadenia conopsea, Round Howe. HABENARIA BIFOLIA, Round Howe. viridis, Round Howe. Helleborus viridis, in a Thicket opposite Brompton, near Marske. Hieracium raurorum, Clink Bank, on the White Dog. 72 Hieracium sylvaticum, old walls, common. paludosum, Aske Wood. Hippocrepis comosa, Aysgarth Force, Hippuris vulgaris, Semer Water, Wensleydale. Hordeum murinum, Castle Bank. Humulus Lupulus, Kirkby Hill; Hutchinsia petraea, on rocks near Reeth, in Swaledale Hydrocotyle vulgaris, near Skeeby Mill. Hypericum dubium, Applegarth. humifusum, near Hipswell. pulchrum, WhitclifFe Wood. JUNCUS OBTUSIFLORUS, near St. Trinians. Juniperus var : nana, Red Scar, near Downholme. LACTUCA VIROSA, on the ruins of St. Agatha's Abbey. Lamium incisum, on a Hedge-bank near Scotton. amplexicaule, corn-fields at the White Field, Lathrzea Squamaria, Round Howe, and the woods westward. Ligustrum vulgare, Clink Bank. Limosella aquatica, Bolton Beck. Linaria cymbalaria, Castle Wall, and old Walls about Richmond. vulgaris, Gallow Fields. minor, in the lane between Harmby and Con- stable Burton. Linum perenne, on the Shoal, Leyburn, by the edge of the wood. Listera cordata, Black Plantation. Downholme Moor. ovata var : with three and four leaves, Black Plantation. nidus avis, Round Howe, 73 Lithospermum ofiicinale, near St. Trinians. Littorella lacustris, bogs on Downholme Moor. Lotus tenuis, on a Moor near the Beacon. Luzula congesta Sm : on the Training Ground. sylvatica, Billy-bank. Lycopus europaeus, Bolton Beck. Lysimachia nummularia, Bolton Beck. Lycopsis arvensis, near Brompton. MALTA MOSCHATA, in the Lane to Skeeby. Melampyrura pratense var : montanum, Training Ground. Melica caerulea, Black Plantation. nutans, Aysgarth Force, Wensleydale. Mentha piperita, Aske Wood, near the Octagon House . Myosotis caespitosa, St. Trinians Pond. - collina, Old Walls, Easby. versicolor, near the Beacon. Myriophyllum spicatum, Downholme Moor, Myrrhis odorata, Easby, near the Round Howe. NARCISSUS BIFLOEUS, in a field adjoining the lane to Gilling. Narthecium ossifragum, Black Plantation. Nasturtium terrestre, Bolton Beck. Nepeta cataria, in the lane to Brompton. Nympha2a alba, in a Pond at Middleton Lodge. CEKANTHE APIIFOLIA? near the suspension bridge, Middleham. Ophioglossum vulgatum, Easby. Ophrys apifera, by the side of the river Ure, near Wensley. - muscifera, near Bolton Hall, Wensleydale. 74 Orchis latifolia, near Skeeby Mill. morio, West Field. pyramidalis, near Wensley . ustulata, West Field, near the Gravel Pit. Orobanche rubra? Limestone Rock, on the Shoal near Leyburn. Oxalis acetosella var. flor. yariegat: Black Plantation. PARIETARIA OFFICINALIS, Castle Walls. Paris quadrifolia, Round Howe. Parnassia palustris, marshy ground near Skeeby. Pastinaca sativa, Marrick Park, amongst stones. Petasites vulgaris f&mina, Sandbeck, the road to Scotton. Peplis portula, Downholme Moor. Pinguicula vulgaris, near Skeeby. Pimpinella magna, Jerveaux Abbey, near Middleham. Pilularia globulifera, Downholme Moor. Polygonun Bistorta, West Field. minus, Bolton Beck. viviparum, Aysgarth Force, Wensleydale. Populus nigra, banks of the Swale below Easby. Polypodium Dryopteris, Whashton Bank. Phegopteris, Bellerby Moor. Potamogeton crispum, in the Swale at Clink-bank. densum, Gilling Beck. pusillum, St. Trinians Pond. heterophyllum, Downholme Moor: Primula farinosa, Hips well Lodge. Primus Cerasus, Round Howe. domestica, in a hedge near Skeeby. Padus, Clink-bank. 75 Pulicaria dysenterica, in the lane at St. Trinians. Pyrola minor, Aske Wood. Pyrus Aria, Downholme Scar. QUERCUS SESSILIFLORA, Whitcliffe Scar. RANUNCULUS AQUATILIS, TAR: FLUVIATIUS, in Gil- ling Beck. Lingua, Wisk, near Northallerton. aryensis, corn-fields, near Skeeby. - hederaceus, in a rivulet near Skeeby. Reseda Luteola, on the Castle-bank. Rhamnus catharticus, hedges near Skeeby. Aysgarth Force. Rhinanthus major, in corn-fields near Applegarth. Ribes alpinum, in the woods about Richmond. Grossularia, hedges and woods. petreeum, banks of the Swale, plentiful. spicatum Robson ? not to be found. Rubus carpinifolius, in the lane to Gilling, near Aske. chamaemorus, on Penhill, Wensleydale. idaeus, moist woods. Kochleri, Clink-bank. leucostachys, Aske Wood. rhamnifolius, near Whitcliffe Wood. saxatilis, Round Howe. suberectus, moist wood near Hipsweli Lodge. nitidus Smith, near the Farm House, Coalsgarth. S AGIN A APEX ALA, old wall, the top of Frenchgate. Sagittaria sagittifolia, Wisk, Northallerton. Salix acuminata, near Colburn Wathe. Andersoniana, in a marshy field at Ravenswath. bicolor, banks of the Swale. K2 76 Salix decipieus, Aske Wood. Forbiana, banks of the Swale, on the Batts, Lambertiana, ditto ditto ditto. pentandra, near Sedbury. Smithiana, Clink-bank: triandra, Gilling Beck. oleifolia, banks of the Swale, near Colborn. rubra, near St. Trinians. repens, near Bellerby. prostrata, moors, common. Sambucus Ebulus, near Piersbridge. Sanguisorba officinalis, West Field. Saponaria officinalis, Castle-bank. Saxifraga hypnoides, on Penhill. aizoides, Whitfell Gill, Askrigg, in Wens- ley dale. granulata, West Field. umbrosa, Aske Wood, introduced. Schcenus nigricans, in a marsh near Skeeby Mill. Scirpus sylvaticus, near Sedbury. Scolopendrium vulgare, Billy -bank. Scutellaria galericulata, Bolton Beck. Sedum album, Old Wall, Cravengate. reflexum, Middleton Tyas. Senecio tenuifolius, St. Trinians. sylvaticus, Aislabeck. Sesleria caerulea, Aysgarth Force, Silene maritima, Red Scar, near Downholme. Sisymbrium Sophia, Brompton. Sium angustifolium, marshy places near Sedbury. inundatum, Downholme Moor. 77 Slum nodiflorum, Skeeby. Solanum Dulcamara, Skeeby Beck. Solidago virgaurea, banks of the Swale. var. cambrica, Reeth Moor. Sparganium simplex, St. Trinians Pond. natans, near Sedbury. Spiraea salicifolia, Aske Wood. Stachys arvensis, near Catterick Bridge. Stellaria nemorum, Ironbanks Wood. TAMUS COMMUNIS, Billy-bank, Taxus baccata, Whitcliffe Wood. Teucrium scordium, Bolton Beck. Tilia grandifolia, Clink-bank. Thlaspi alpestre, near Reeth. arvense, near Leyburn Bleach Yard. Torilis nodosa, Castle bank. Trifolium medium, banks of the Swale. striatum, Castle bank. Triodia decumbens, Race Ground. Trollius europaeus, Round Howe, east side. Turritis glabra, in the lane at Catterick Bridge. ULEX NANUS, Gatherley Moor Sand Pit. Ulmus montana, Clink-bank. suberosa, in the lane to Aske. VERBASCUM THAPSUS, Castle bank. Verbena officinalis, Skeeby. Veronica Anagallis, in the rivulet at Skeeby. montana, Billy-bank. polita, in Gardens, &c. scutellaria, im the road to Scotton, near Sandbeck. 78 Vicia sylvatica, near the Force. Vinca minor, Mr. Yorke's Grounds. Viola hirta, Round Howe. lutea, Aislabeck. palustris, Black Plantation. odorata flore alba, in the foot lane, Gallow Fields. ZANICHELLIA PALUSTRIS, in a rivulet near Skeeby . MUSCI. ANOMODON CURTIPENDULUM, Downholme Park, old walls. viticulosum, Round Howe. BARTRAMIA POMIFORMIS, Billy-bank Wood. ithyphylla, near Marske. Bryum palustre, Black Plantation. trichodes. on a Moor near the Beacon. carneum, Clink-bank. roseum, Billy-bank. capillare, Billy-bank. turbinatum, Billy-bank. nutans, Downholme Moor. vent ricosum, moor near the Beacon. punctatum, banks of the Swale, Billy-bank. ligulatum, Hilly-bank Wood. rostratum, banks of the Swale. marginatum, ditto ditto. hornum. Clink-bank. 79 Bryum cuspidatum, near the Force. CINCLIDOTUS FONTINALOIDES, Rocks in the Swale at the Force. DICRANUM ADIANTOIDES, Downholme Moor, taxifolium, Aske Wood, strumiferum, Downholme Moor. pellucidum, Billy-bank, heteromallum, Billy-bank. Didymodon capillaceum, Aysgarth Force, heteromallum, Downholme Park. rigidulam, Downholrae Park Walls. ENCALYFTA VULGARIS, old mud walls in the road to Aske. FONTINALIS ANTIPYRETICA, near the Sandbeck. GYMNOSTOMUM OVATUM, Castle-bank. fasciculare, Stainton Moor. tenue, Sandbeck. mycrostomum, West Field. HOOSLERIA LUCENS, Billy-bank Wood. Hypnum trichomanoides, old trees, Sandbeck. undulatum, Downholme Moor, denticulatum, Gill ing Wood, near the Black Plantation. medium, Easby. tenellum, rocks in Billy-bank. populeum, old wall, Clink-bank. alopecurum, Billy-bank. dendroides, near the Hagg, in fruit. myosuroides, Downholme Park. confertum, near the Paper Mill. brevirostre, Billy-bank. 80 Hypnum tiuitans, Black Plantation. uncinatum, Downholme Park. . commutatum, Clink-bank spring. NECKERA CRISPA, Billy-bank. ORTHOTRICIIUM CUPULATUM, rocks, Castle-bank. diaphanum, Trees, Back-house-ing. pulchellum, Aske Wood. POLYTRICHUM pitiFERUM, OH a moor near Hudswell. urnigerum, St. Martins, aloides, Black Plantation. nanum, Aislabeck. TRICHOSTOMUM CANESCENS, moor near the Beacon. aciculare, Downholme Park Gill. Tortula rigida, Sandbeck. subulata, Clink-bank. SPLACHNUM AMPULLACEUM, Downholme Moor. WEISSI LANCEOLATA, Castle-bank. verticillata, Clink-bank spring. HEPATIC-iE. JUNGERMANNIA ASPLENIOIDES, Billy-bank. lanceolata, Billy-bank, on rocks. Sphagni, Aislabeck. inflata, Billy-bank. exciba, Thorpe moor; ventricosa, Aislabeck. byssacea, Thorpe moor. 81 Jungermannia incisa, Aislabeck. nemorosa, Downholme Park. umbrosa, Aislabeck. undulata, Billy-bank. : albicans, Aislabeck. - Trichomanis, Aske Wood. - heterophylla, Aske Wood. serpyllifolia, Billy-bank Wood. Tamarisci, Red Scar, furcata, Billy-bank. pubescens, Billy-bank. Lyellii, in a rivulet near Skeeby Mill. crenulata, Thorpe Moor. MARCHANTIA. HEMISPHERIC/I, Aysgarth Force. conica, Aske Wood. STUDIOS^E ET ACUT^E. 82 APPENDIX, No. II. CUIT, IBBETSON, Remains of Ancient Art, fyc. THE name of Cuit has already been noticed iu the previous pages. The following account of this eminent artist is taken from Pilkington's Dictionary of Painters, and the History of Richmond. He was born at Moulton, near Richmond, and shewing very early in life a strong inclination for drawing, was patronized by Sir Lawrence Dundas, who sent him to Rome. Having pursued his studies there for nearly six years, with great perseverance and skill, he returned to England and was employed by his patron in taking the portraits of some of his grand children. Mr. Cuit was very desirous of settling in London to follow his profession, and took apartments for that purpose; but a slow fever, which had for some time been troublesome, compelled him to try the benefit of his native air. Consequently he revisited the north, and, finding his health restored, finally settled at Richmond. There he quietly passed the remainder of his life, painting with equal exactness the polished features of park scenery, and the man- sions of the opulent, and the moss-grown cliffs and roaring torrents which are so profusely scattered about 83 in Richmond and its Ticinity. Having for a number of years secluded himself from the world of art, he contracted a style peculiar to himself, working his pictures as near as he could to approach the effect which the camera obscura throws upon paper. It is the daily effect of nature, without any poetic license of form in compositions, or violent contrast in co- louring. During M r. Cuit's long residence in Richmond, his suavity of manners, and inoffensive deportment gained him the friendship of the most respectable part of the inhabitants, to whom he was always a welcome visitor. He died at the age of 75, on the 7th of February, 1818. There is another painter of still higher eminence, who, although he never resided at Richmond, may with propriety be introduced here, Mr. JULIUS IBBETSON, the father of the late J. C. Ibbetson, of this town. The short notice of his life, given by Pilkington, is very incorrect, and we therefore avail ourselves of the hints respecting his setting out in life, contained in his ludicrous "Accidence, or Gamut of Painting in Oil." t From his earliest youth he had a most violent pro. pensity or inclination to the art, without ever meeting with instruction, encouragement, or patronage, and he at last, on making his way to London, found himself moored in a picture dealer's garret. Here he was employed in repairing the mischiefs done to the works of the old masters by the sand and scrubbing brush of the merciless picture cleaners. "I had," he says, "by a continual acquaintance with hardship and ill usage, acquired a sort of impervious husk or cork jacket, 84 which enabled me to hold up my head in such miser- able situations as would have consigned to oblivion every propensity to exertion, in any other beside my- self. The least attempt at painting any thing of my own was discouraged to the last degree, by the gloomy fanatic with whom I was a prisoner, prisoner I may well call myself; instead of raising my pittance, on which I could not exist, he would advance me trifling sums, and I became his debtor. Seven whole years that I lost in that manner, 1 had the dread of the consequences hanging over me. I never knew the amount till the consummate hypocrite had me arrested, at the moment of my setting out on the first embassy to China. For what? Forty Pounds, which had been seven years accumulating. This last indignity almost broke my heart." " My drawings, which were only to be seen in the shop windows, as I was entirely unknown, had attracted the notice of some persons of taste, who, with great difficulty, discovered me. I was, all at once, noticed in a manner totally new to me ; by people, so con- trasted to the sordid vermin with whom only I had been concerned till then, that it was no wonder I was elevated beyond measure." He now rose to such eminence in his profession, that his landscapes were eagerly sought for by collec- tors of the first rank. The late Mr. West, very appropriately called him the Berghem of England, He afterwards retired to Masham, his native place, and died there in the year 1817. Good specimens of his style have now become scarce, and several of them have lately been sold at very high prices. 85 Whilst on the subject of artists, we may notice a curious old painting preserved in the Bede House, or Hospital, on Anchorage Hill, which was founded in the year 1607, by Mrs. Elenor Bowes, upon the ruins of a chapel dedicated to St. Edmund. It is a PORTRAIT OF QUEEN ELIZABETH, decked out with a profusion of lace and jewels. The vanity of the virgin Queen has often been the subject of historical remark, and such an ascendancy did this feeling acquire ovei her sounder judgment, that in the latter part of her reign she issued a proclamation against setting up ill- favoured likenesses of her royal visage. She also strictly forbid any shadow to be introduced in her portraits, so that it was difficult to give them any other appearance than that of a flat flesh coloured surface. The latter peculiarity is strikingly apparent in the picture at the Bede House, and may, in some degree, be considered a proof of its authenticity, though it detracts much from its effect as a work of art. It has lately been cleaned, so as to restore the original colours, which had become almost concealed under a coat of smoke and dirt. When part of the west end of the castle fell down, some years ago, a curious horn and large silver spoon were discovered, and sent to the Duke of Richmond. The silver spur of a Knight has also since been found in the castle, and enriches the cabinet of one of our townsmen. In the year 1720, upwards of 600 Roman silver coins, of Coustantius, Juliauus, Valentinianus, &c., were dis- covered in a crevice of the rock at the south-east corner 86 of (he bottom of the castle hill. Gale ingeniously sup- poses that some rich citizen of Catterick, (the Roman Cataractonium) allured by the pleasantness of the woods and water, had fixed his villa here, and trusting to the solitude of the place, buried this treasure at the approach of the Saxons, or ou his being called off on a distant excursion. Others take this as a proof that the Roman City of Cataractonium was actually situated here, close to the cataract^ from which its name seems to be derived : but the weight of evidence certainly preponderates in favor of the claim of Catterick. A number of common English coins, of various dates, from Henry III. downwards, have been found at differ- ent times in and around the town ; and pieces about the reigns of Henry VIII. and his children, are frequently discovered in the rubbish of old houses, which is gen- erally shot into the Swale, below the bridge; the first succeeding flood washes away the crumbling fragments of lime, &c., and leaves the coins in the crevices which intersect the rocky bed of the stream ; and they then, of course, become a tempting object of research to the juvenile antiquaries of the neighbouring streets. APPENDIX, No. III. IN the notes to Sir Walter Scott's " Rokeby," there is printed an ancient ballad in the Yorkshire dialect, entitled, "THE FELON Sow OF ROKEBY, AND THE FREERS OF RICHMOND." It presents a curious cotem- porary sketch of the habits of our forefathers, and though it is too long to be inserted entire, a few ex- tracts will, perhaps, repay the reader's attention. There are, in the Spectator, two very interesting papers, in which Addison, with a good deal of critical tact, institutes a comparison between the fine old bal- lad of Chevy Chase, and various corresponding passages in Virgil. The subject of this note is in a much dif- ferent style, and had Addison fallen in with the "felon Sow," he might, perhaps, in one of his livelier moods, have amused us with demonstrating its superiority to Ovid's detail of the capture of the boar at Calydon. First comes the hero, or rather the heroine of the story. She was mare than other three, (more) The griseliest beast that e'er might be, Her head was great and gray ; She was bred in Rokeby Wood, There was few that thither goed, (went) That came on live away, (alive) 88 Ralph of Rokeby, with good will, The Fryers of Richmond gave her till, (to) Full well to garre them fare : (make) Fryar Middleton, by his name, He was sent to fetch her hame, That rued him sine full sare. (since) It will be recollected that the Friars were professed mendicants, and were enjoined by the rules of their order, to have no estate or regular income, but to lite on the alms of the faithful. The Friar takes with him two "wight men," to secure this " wicked sew," and, after a little ma- noeuvring, they succeed in haltering her ; but they ioon found they had only caught a Tartar. She bound her boldly to abide ; To Peter Dale, she came aside, With many a hideous yell ; She gaped so wide, and cried so hee, The Friar said, "I conjure thee, Thou art a fiend of hell," After a little more skirmishing, she runs off with the halter, to the great relief of her captors. The field, it was both lost and wonne, The sew went home, and that fall soone, To Morton on the Green ; 89 When Ralph of Rokeby saw the rope, (rope) He wist that there had been debate Whereat the Sew had beene. The Friar returns to Richmond in woful plight : He look't so griesly all that night, The warden said, " Yon man will fight, "If you say ought but good ; " Yon guest hath grieved him so sare, (gest, or adventure) " Hold your tongues and speak no mare, " He looks as he were wood." The warden waged on the morne, (hired) Two boldest men that ever were borne, I weine or ever shall be ; The one was Gilbert Griffin's son, Full mickle worship has he wonne, Both by land and sea. The other was a bastard son of Spain, Many a Saracen hath he slain, His dint hath gart them die. (blow) These two the battle undertooke, Against the sew, as says the booke, And sealed security, That they would boldly bide and fight, And skomfit her in maine and might, Or therefore should they die : 90 The warden sealed to them againe, And said, " In field if ye be slaine, "This condition make I. u We shall for you pray, sing, and read " To domesday with hearty speede, "With all our progeny." * * This was the usual inducement held out to excite the generosity of their benefactors. How they were in the habit of managing such affairs, let old Chaucer relate. With scrip and tipped staff, y tucked high, In every house he gan to pore and pry, And begged meal and cheese, or else corn. His fellow had a staff tipped with horn, A pair of tables all of ivory, A pointell y polished fetously, (skilfully) And wrote always the names as he stood, Of all folkes that gave them any good; Askaunce that he woulde for them pray, " Give us a bushel wheate, malt, or rye, * * * " Or give us of your brawn, if ye have any, " A dagon of your blanket, dear dame, (piece) " Our sister dear, lo, here I write your name, " Bacon or beef, or such thing as ye find." # * * * And when he was out at the door, anon, He plained away the names, every one, That he before had written on his tables; He served them with nifles and with fables. The gullibility of John Bull has long been proverbial, and there seems no doubt that these gentlemen beggars were the 91 Then the letters well were made, Bands bound with seales brade, (broad) As deedes of arms should be. Forth they go to the conflict; and we have the description of the Sow's onset, rough and bristling as hard words can make it; She came roveing them againe ; (against) That saw the bastard son of Spain, He braded out his brand ; Full spiteously at her he strake, For all the fence that he could make, (in spite of) She gat sword out of hand ; And rave in sunder half his sheilde, And bare him backward in the feilde, He might not her gainstand. But master Gilbert then doughtily interposes; and Since in his hands he hath her tane, She took him by the shoulder bane, (bone) And held her hold full fast, And strave so stiffly in that stower, That through all his rich armour The blood came at the last. veritable predecessors of the advertising quack-doctors of our times. M 2 92 Then Gilbert grieved was sea sare, (so) That he rave off both hide and haire, The flesh came fro the bone ; And all with force he felled her there, And wanne her worthily in werre, And band her him alone. The prize is then carried to Richmond, and received by the brethren " with all the honors." If ye will any more of this, In the fryars of Richmond tis, In parchment good and fine ; And how fryar Middleton, that was so kend, (well known) At Greta Bridge conjured a feind, In likeness of a swine. And some people will, perhaps, be so uncharitable as to suspect that if popish miracles, in general, were as " fully and accurately reported " as friar Middle- ton's feat of conjuration, a host of wonder working saints would be degraded, like him, to the rank of plain pig driving mortals. 93 APPENDIX, No. IV. ARCHDEACON BLACKBURNE. THE celebrated author of the Confessional, was born at Richmond, 9th of June, 1705. At the age of seventeen he was admitted a pensioner of Catharine Hall, Cambridge, where his peculiar notions on civil and religious liberty rendered him obnoxious to his superiors, and occasioned the loss of a fellowship for which he was a candidate. In 1739, he was ordained, and in a short time afterwards was inducted to the living of Richmond, where he resided constantly for forty years, during which he composed all the pieces contained in his works. In July, 1750, he was col- lated to the Archdeaconry of Cleveland ; and in August following, to the Prebend of Bilton, by Dr. Matthew Button, Archbishop of York, to whom he had been for some years titular chaplain. His Con- fessional came out in the spring of 1766, and was the commencement of a controversy which continued until about 1772, and gave rise to 70 or 80 pamphlets. One singular effect followed the first publication of the Confessional. It was supposed that the author of such a work could not possibly remain in the church after having made so many objections to her constitu- tion ; and, accordingly, a congregation of dissenters 94 in London, sent a deputation to him, to know whether he was inclined to accept the situation of their pastor. This, however, was refused. Although he abstained from any open opposition to the ptinciples and conduct of Mr. Lindsey and Dr. Disney, (both his relations and friends) it is said that he did not approve of either. On the secession of Dr. Disney from the church, a circumstance which appears to have given him great uneasiness, he went so far as to draw up a paper, under the title of " An answer to the question, Why are you not a Socinian ? " but this, although now added to his works, was not published in his life time. He had been suspected, from his relationship and intimacy with Dr. Disney and Mr. Lindsey, of holding the same sentiments with them, and his object in the above paper, was to vin- dicate his character in that respect. Still as it did not appear in his life time, it could not answer that purpose. However, we are now told, that some time before his death, he explicitly asserted to his relative, the Rev. Mr. Comber, his belief in the divinity of Christ. He died August 7th, 1787, in his 83rd year. * Biographical Dictionary. 95 THE REV. AJVTHONV TEMPLE, Was born at Craike, in Yorkshire, January 30th, 1723-4. He was educated at Coxwold school, and from thence sent to Sidney College, Cambridge, where he proceeded B.A. in 1745, and in 1770, took the degree of M.A. In 1750, he was elected master of the Free Gram- mar School at Richmond, which he held till his death. The testimonials to his character and abilities, produced by him as candidate on that occasion, favourable as they were in an extraordinary degree, were abundantly realised by the most honourable discharge of the du- ties of that important station for 45 years. He died April 30th, 1795, in the 72nd year of his age. ''Though an uninterrupted state of ill health had long confined him to his house, he did not remit the most painful and assiduous attention to the duties of an office for which none was ever better qualified. One distin- guishing feature of his character commands our ap- plause. A generous patron and encourager of learning, he took under his protection poor scholars, for whom, as well by his own liberality, as by a prudent and successful application to the clergy and gentry of the neighbourhood, or to his friends at Cambridge, he procured the advantages of academical instruction. Many of these might be named, who are now an honor to the place of their education, an ornament to the republic of letters, and a blessing to society."* * Gentleman's Magazine, vol. LXV, p. 448. 96 The first station which he held in the church, after his quitting Cambridge, was the curacy of Kilburne, in the north riding. He was afterwards for some time lecturer of Royston, in Hertfordshire ; but the only ecclesiastical preferment which he possessed, was the vicarage of Easby, near Richmond, to which he was presented in 1770. In 1766, he published a visitation Sermon, preached at Richmond in that year, which was followed by the publication of various other sermons and controversial pamphlets. This short notice of Mr. Temple's valuable life, is extracted from the first volume of Nichols's Illustra- tions of the Literary History of the eighteenth century. 97 APPENDIX, No. V REV. JAMES TATE, CANON RESIDENTIARY OF ST. PAUL'S. NEVER was the honest sympathy of pleasure so universally and unequivocally displayed through the town, as on the occasion of Mr. Tate receiving his long looked for preferment. The news went home to the feelings of every individual who heard it, the bells were speedily set agoing, and the cheerful old Grecian was well nigh smothered with the congratula- tions which poured in from every side. An address was speedily drawn up and placed at the principal inn, to receive the signatures of his townsmen ; and very soon afterwards, a subscription (not to exceed five shillings each) was opened for the purchase of a suit- able piece of plate, to be presented to him as a solid and lasting testimony of the esteem in which he was held. The Mechanics' Institute, of which Mr. Tate had been the principal promoter, next met him with a congratulatory address, which was delivered to him at their Annual Meeting, by H. W. Yeoman, Esq. It may possibly amuse the stranger, and must certainly 98 interest our townsmen, to preserve a copy of each of these addresses. That from the Inhabitants at large, was as follows : DEAR AND REVEREND SIR, He who fully and faithfully discharges the important duties of a public preceptor has a just right to the proud title of a PUBLIC BENEFACTOB. The splendid academical success of your pupils for a long series x>f years has ranked you with the first classical teachers of the land, and the respect and affection of all your scholars bespeak the endearing qualities of your character. That services so eminent, and qualities so estimable, should finally be rewarded with becoming clerical honour and emolument, has ever been one of the dearest hopes of us all. Our hope has at length, through the munificence of our most gracious and patriotic king, been happily realised. We hail with unbounded delight your well merited elevation to the dignity of CANON RESIDENTIARY OF ST. PAUL'S, and with our cordial congratulations on this joyful occasion, we combine a fervent prayer that you may long enjoy your learned repose, blessed by the happiness and prosperity of your family. The next is a copy of the address from the Institute. DEAR AND REVEREND SIR, We, the members of the Richmond Me- chanics' Institute, most respectfully beg leave to tender to you our sincere congratulations on your elevation to the dignity of Canon Residentiary of St. Paul's 99 Cathedral, which our beloved King has so graciously conferred upon you. When we consider that for more than thirty-six years you have been usefully, honourably, and most successfully engaged as a public teacher; when we consider your conduct as the unwearied advocate of rational liberty in its fullest extent, as also your amiable and truly benevolent character in private life ; and, above all, when we call to mind that notwith- standing the many important demands on your valuable time from other and higher quarters, you have promoted to the utmost of your powerful abilities the diffusion of useful knowledge in an humbler sphere by accepting the office, and most effectually discharging the duties of president of our institution, fostering and encoura- ging it by your attendance and counsel, and teaching us to seek knowledge for its own sake; when we consider these among many other claims to our grati- tude and respect, we cannot but esteem this beneficent act of a gracious Sovereign as a just and well earned tribute to a consistent, useful, virtuous, and honourable life. That, Sir, you may long enjoy in health and hap. piness all the advantages of so distinguished a mark of royal favour, is our most earnest and heartfelt prayer. To this was returned the following reply : 100 GENTLEMEN, MY FRIENDS, AND BROTHER MEMBERS OF THE MECHANICS' INSTITUTE OF RICHMOND, The very handsome estimate which you have been pleased to express of my humble services as the president of your society, it would ill become me to call in question. And however flattering the lan- guage of your congratulation may sound on the promotion which our most gracious sovereign has conferred upon me, I yet believe it to be as sincerely offered on your part, as it is received with all affectionate welcome on mine. The whole indeed of my intercourse with you, gentlemen, has been so entirely pleasing in its origin and continuance, and any advice or countenance in my power to give, has been so constantly seconded by your good will and good sense in cheerfully accepting it ; that after all, perhaps, (and for that I am grateful) you have made one generous mistake in striking the balance, and have imputed as a merit to the atten- tions of the president, what was due to the excellent dispositions of the society itself. Owing every thing under God's good providence, as I have done from my earliest years, to the great advantages of learned and religious education afforded by the Free Grammar School of Richmond,* on that ground alone I should be strangely insensible to the * Can the letter concerning the kind hearted Schoolmaster of Rich- mond, in No. 168 of the Spectator, be supposed to refer to our Richmond ? If BO, the selection of Richmond as the date of the letter, is a pleasing proof of the celebrity which the School had then acquired . It is singularly applicable to the present management of the boys. ED. 101 most natural of obligations, if I did not advocate and help to advance the diffusion of sound knowledge and useful learning in every circle of human life. To you therefore, gentlemen, my friends, as well in the concerns of this our society, as in every other honest and honourable pursuit in which you are enga- ged, I heartily wish all prosperity ; and praying God to bless you here and hereafter, I bid you for the present most affectionately farewell. JAMES TATE. Amid all these gratifying tokens of esteem towards Mr. Tate, it is to be hoped that the extensive learning, suavity of manners, and exemplary character of his successor, will not be overlooked or undervalued; but will have the effect of ensuring the continuance of that respect and patronage which Richmond School has so long enjoyed. THE END. DARLINGTON: PRINTED BY J. WILSON. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Form L9-75m-7,'61(Cl43784)444