V. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SAN DIEeO J.i i Pi E A^ E 1 A T I N S OP SIBERIA. BY A BANISHED LADY. EDITED BY COLONEL LACH SZYEMA. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. CijirK (^JJttton. LONDON : HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SIJCCESSOES TO HENRY COLBIJEN, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1854. M. S.MYERS, PRINTER, 22, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVEN I GARDEN. TO LORD DUDLEY STUART, M.P., &c. &c., WHOSE GENEEOTTS SrMPATHT WITH THE EXPATRIATED AND OPPRESSED, HAS ENSHEINED HIS NAME INDELIBLY IN THE MEMORY OF ALL NATIONS, ARE HUMBLY INSCRIBED BY HIS MOST DEVOTED ADMIRER, THE EDITOR. INTEODUCTIOI^. The subject of the present work is Siberia; a region di^eary by nature, and not only in name synonymous, but actually identical with a vast prison — a locality asso- ciated in our minds with the most poignant of human sufferings. As such, it could only be properly described under the influ- ence of those painful impressions, and while the writer is writhing under the most acute mental agony. The Authoress of the present " Eeve- lations" was one of the numerous exiles who VI INTRODUCTION. are yearly sent to that desolate wilderness. She was a lady of quality, and had the mis- fortune to incur the displeasure of the Eussian Government, and, in consequence, was included in the class of the nestchastri ludi^ or " unfortunates," as the exiles, in pity for their hard lot, are called by the people. With regard to her personal history, we need only say that she is well known in her own country — a lady by birth and position in society — a wife and mother, torn from her happy home. Her name is Eva Felinska, a name not less noble, than honourably dis- tinguished in Polish literature. Her hus- band's eldest brother, who died some years since, was ranked among the most eminent Polish writers and poets. One of his best and most popular productions was the tragedy, named after "Barbara Eadziwill," the con- sort of King Sigismundus Augustus, supposed to have been poisoned by her step-mother Queen Bona. Eespectable by her family connexions, and a gentlewoman of a cultivated mind, she INTRODUCTION. vil could not but suffer the more bitterly, when torn on a sudden from her domestic hearth and the bosom of civilized society, and carried off to the wilds of Siberia. Here, among a barbarous population, her very habits of refinement, as may be conceived, rendered her position more difficult and imendurable. As for her crime, it was that which the noblest and most exalted minds of every nation have ever been proud to commit — namely, the crime of patriotism. By her birth, descent, and education, a Pole, she could not but feel deeply for her fallen country and its oppressed people. Possessed of landed property, she established schools in the villages for the education of the serfs, and treated them with more than usual humanity — conduct that made her suspected by the Kussian Government, which suffers no educational establishments, but those that are sanctioned and carried on according to its own regulations. In addition to this, another incident seems to have rendered her Vlll INTRODUCTION. obnoxious to the Government. In the year 1837, some emissaries from abroad made their appearance in Eussia, for the purpose, as was stated by the agents of the secret police, of bringing about a new insiUTCction in the Polish provinces. In this conspiracy a great number of the first families in Lithuania, Yolhynia, and other provinces joined, and among them was oiu' authoress ; but in what manner and to what extent she was compromised, is not known, such matters never being diAO-ilged in Eussia. To afford temporary shelter to the emissaiy on his passage, or simply to receive a letter from him, or from those who have been in con- nexion with him ; or the casual knowledge of a vague rumoui* of what may have occuiTed in some locality, and not reporting it to the authorities, suffices to implicate any one as an accomplice in plotting against the safety of the State. The dungeons of the citadel of Warsaw, and those at Wilna and Kiev, were at that period crammed with these unhappy victims INTRODUCTION. IX of suspicion. Our Authoress, and other ladies similarly compromised, were sent to a convent of Eussian nuns at Kiev, where they remain- ed many months, undergoing the most rigorous discipline that a fanatical sisterhood, especially if authorized by the Government, can inflict on our sex. After a protracted investigation conducted with a barbarity peculiar to Eus- sian courts, the whole affair ended, by two emissaries who had arrived firom abroad — Konarski and Zawisza, being shot. They were both young men, pupils of the Univer- sity of Warsaw. The rest of the accomplices in the alleged plot were sent into banish- ment to Siberia, and had their estates confis- cated. Their lives were spared, but each was subjected to the penalty of a death long drawn out, and to a fate from which all human beings shrink — death far from home, country, and friends. Among those thus banished from Kior, was our Authoress, together with two other gentlewomen — one an elderly matron ; the other, a yoimg lady in her tenderest age, of a 3 X INTRODUCTION. a delicate frame, impaired by pining in prison, but, as described in this work, of a most amiable disposition, capable of the most gene- rous devotedness. These three gentlewomen had to make a most tedious and wearisome journey, dur- ing the inclemency of a Eussian Avinter, to Siberia. On arriving at Tobolsk, they met a number of other exiles, their acquaintances and former neighbours, who had preceded them thither — indeed a whole colony of their countrymen, who had been exiled at differ- ent periods. The Emperor IS'icholas appears, in this instance, to have proved faithful to the threat pronounced by him after the close of the Polish war of 1831, that he would make a Siberia of Poland, and a Poland of Siberia. From Tobolsk, the exiles were distributed in accordance with the supposed culpability of each, among the different penal settlements in Siberia. The guiltof our Authoress appears to have beengreat in the eyes of the authori- ties, as she was sentenced to be sent to Bere. INTRODUCTION. XI zov, a town in the farthest north ; while the two other ladies, companions of her journey- were located in a much milder climate in the south. Tliis arrangement, however, did not meet the views of the youngest lady, who had become exceedingly attached to her friend ; and, in order not to be separated from her, she besought the authorities to send her to Berezov ; with which request, though not without great reluctance, they eventually complied. It is after her arrival at Berezov, that the remarks of the Authoress acquire an increas- ing degree of interest. "While sojourning there for a period of more than two years, when she was removed to another settlement, nothing escaped her penetrating eye in her intercourse with the inhabitants, whether Eussian or native. She describes their man- ner of living, their hunting and fishing expe- ditions, and their amusements at home ; their religious rites, festivals, popular tradi- tions, and prejudices ; their articles of export and import ; their trade, and the mode of XU INTRODUCTION. carrying it on by barter ; the animals of the i'orest, and the birds of the air ; the scanty vegetables of the soil, and its minerals ; the temperature, and the phenomena of the sky ; in a manner at once pleasant and instructive. There is throughout a certain freshness about her observations and remarks ; and the pic- ture she draws of the customs, opinions, and habits of savage life, as contrasted with those of our civilized communities, will be perused with peculiar interest. Never does she allow a single murmui- to escape her lips against the author of her ba- nishment. Of the Emperor Mcholas, not a syllable is said ; his name occurs but once in the book, and then is mentioned indirectly, in connection with his son Alexander, the heir apparent. Even on that occasion, there is no term used either of eulogy or disparagement. Neither good nor bad is allowed to be said of the reigning family of Eussia. This she knew, and she strictly adhered to the esta- blished rule. Of the Government measures, she found many that were wisely conceived. INTRODUCTION. XllI tending to ameliorate the condition of the people ; but she could not at, the same time, help deploring that they should be completely nullified, and prevented from producing any of theii* intended results, by the incapacity of the Eussian ofiicials, and especially those of the inferior grade. Some of these, whose flagrant delinquencies came under her notice, she does not scruple to denounce. With regard to the higher functionaries, she gives them great credit for intelligence and humanity. In so far, the book may be considered per- fectly impartial, containing nothing to excite the susceptibilities even of the admirers of the Eussian Government — if any can be found in this country. The Polish original issued from the press under the rigorous domination of the imperial censorship, with- out the sanction of which it could not have been printed ; and it has since — which is rare in Bussia — passed tlirough two editions. It is altogether a useful publication, both for the native and foreign reader ; and certainly it is creditable to the censorship in Eussia, XIV INTRODUCTION. that permission was given for its appearance. In this respect, it contrasts most favoni'ahly with the censorship exercised over the press by other continental governments, being not only indulgent, but, to a certain extent, liberal; and if the same spirit is followed up, it mil not be without its advantages. Still the Polish original cannot be said to bear no marks of the pen of the censor. All compositions written under constraint are worded with caution and reservation, and necessarily contain many phrases capable of a double meaning. These can scarcely be perceived, and never be fully comprehended, by foreign readers, as by the natives, who, initiated in the history of events, can, as is commonly said, " read many things between the lines." Moreover, in some cases, many matters have been but lightly touched upon by the Authoress, and may not be clear, while others are so novel as to appear scarcely credible. In illustration, therefore, of the text, as well as the matter contained in it, the Editor INTRODUCTION. XV has thought fit to subjoin some annotations, for which (as thoy have not met the eye of the censorship, and might perhaps offend the Eussian Government) he alone, and not the Authoress, ought to be held responsible. The Authoress is a perfect stranger to the Editor. All liis knowledge of her is derived solely from her work, and he has never had any communication with her whatever. All he has been able to learn is that she is still living, and that, after her return fi'om exile, she published other productions of her pen ; this being her fii'stwork. We should indeed be extremely grieved, if our publication of her book in England should in any way interfere with her peace and comfort, and should not rather be an encouragement to her to resume her pen, for the benefit of her country and the information of other nations. The Polish original, from which these volumes have been translated, comprises a narrative of events that took place between the years 1839 and 1841 ; but, owing to the delay caused by the long exile of the writer, XVI INTRODUCTION. it has but recently left the press. Still, delay does not in the least detract from either the importance or novelty of the work. Siberia is not a country of progress ; trans- formation and changes are not effected there with the same rapidity as they are in Western Europe ; but for ages everything is sta- tionary. Generation after generation may pass away, but the opinions, habits, and usages of the people continue immutable. Desolate and dismal, unexplored and imex- plorable, as Siberia may be, it is not, as will be seen by this work, without its peculiar lineaments of sublimity, amidst all its di*eari- ness and solitudes ; and a day will come when its ice-bound territories will be opened to civilization, and its forests vanish before the advances of freedom. We cannot conclude better than by quoting Sydney Yendys' lines on the Polar regions : " The earth is rock — the heaven The dome of a greater palace of ice, Russ-built. Dull light distils through frozen skies Thickened and gross. Cold Fancy droops her wings, INTRODUCTION. XVll And cannot range. In winding-sheets of snow Lies every thought of any pleasing thing. I have forgotten the green earth ; my soul Deflowered, and lost to every summer hope, Sad sitteth on an iceberg at the Pole ; My heart assumes the landscape of mine eyes, Moveless and white, chill blanched with hoarest rime. The sun himself is heavy, and lacks cheer ; Or on the eastern hill, or western slope. The world without seems far and long ago." CONTENTS THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPTEE I. Journey from Kiovto Tobolsk — Departure — Prostration — Government instructions — Tula — Veteran soldier — Iron-works — Russian currency — Murom Forest — Nijny-Novgorod — Its fair. . . .1 CHAPTER II. Russian fare — Companions in exile — Arrival at Kazan — Discomforts at lodj^ings — Visit from the Police Director — Visit fi'om a Russian matron — Recollec- tions of Easter- day — Invitation from the landlady — Obstacles at departure — Aspect of the city — Variety of races — Costumes — A Tartar chief and his wife . . . . . .19 XX CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. Perm — New villages — Ural Mountains — Ekatarinburg — A roguish innkeeper — Post-carts — Defects of female education — Tumen — A national reKc — Tobolsk — Com- patriots in exile — Devotcdness of a young lady — De- parture — Inundation — Bronikov — Counter-order to return. . . . . .45 CHAPTER IV. Sojourn at Tobolsk — Lower and Upper Town — Edifices — Interview with an exiled Colonel — "Walks on the Irtish — Tobola — Public garden — Visit from the exile — Advance of spring — Breaking of ice on the Irtish — Argali deer . . . . .68 CHAPTER V. Preparations for departure — Spring — The Upper Town •— Ceyzik's house — Prince Gortchakoff — His removal to Omsk — Roman Catholic missions — A real solitude — Embarkation — Cabin — Farewells. . . 82 CHAPTER VI. Journey to Berezov — Mournful train of thoughts — Kutchum Xhan and Yermak — Steward — Passengers — Samovar — Boating — Perilous adventure — Gale of wind — Demiansk — Increase of cold — Expanse of the desert — Grandeur of primitive nature. . 98 CONTENTS. XXI CHAPTER VII. Confluence of the Irtish and the Oby — Lowland and upland plain — The Tartar and the Ostiak boundary — Storm — Wnd Scenery — Stones of various colours in rivers — Kondisk Monastery — Soswa — Distant view of Berezov — Disembarkation — Aspect of the town . . . . .117 CHAPTER VIII. The bay — Lodgings — Want of market — Sour ducks — Nights with daylight — Breakfast on water — jSTew Lodgings — Supper — An-angement of the rooms — Superfluous gifts — The hostess — Sudden summer heat . . . . .131 CHAPTER IX. Rapidity of vegetation — Preparations for the fisheries in the Oby Gulf — Performance of a religious rite — A family fareweU — A touching scene — Site of Berezov — Streets — Structure of the houses — Churches — ^Burial places — Menzikov's corpse — His grave — Graves of other exiles — Classification of the inhabitants — Pro- visions — A Siberian school. . . .142 CHAPTER X. Musquitos — Visits — Bashfulness of a hostess — A merchant widow's house — Objects of luxury and XXll CONTENTS. European taste— Not at home — Summer heat— Courtesy of the Ecrezovian maids — Flight — Arrival of Madame X A Berezovian liloomer — A Polish maid-servant. . . . . .157 CHAPTER XI. Inland Navigation — The Berezovian distinct — Population — Scantiness of cultivation — Manners and customs of the inhabitants — Berezovian women — origin of the Berezovian Cossacks — Causes of their degeneration — Their military services and emoluments — Their mercantile spirit and traffic with the natives . 173 CHAPTER XII. My child— Visits of guests— The Nizegorodtyow family — Parental authority — Ladies' dresses — Costumes peculiar to each class — Evils arising from change of class ..... 186 CHAPTER XIII. Failing health — A Siberian merchant— Attempts at agriculture — Hostility to improvement — System of trade — Articles of barter — Character of the natives — The culinary art— Young bride's first dinner party— CONTENTS. xxiii Female education — Facility of marriage — Landed Property— Prospects of Berezov . .196 CHAPTER XIV. St. Peter's festival — "Waygulka pic-nics — Sudden cold — Traces of a road — Government magazines — An Ostiak encampment — Description of an Ostiak yourta — Smell peculiar to the Ostiaks — Their diet — Ostiak beggars ..... 218 CHAPTEE XV. Terrific storm — Thoughts of home — A Siberian soiree Sumptuous supper — The stirrup cup . .230 CHAPTEE XVI. Marriage ceremony — Death of Colonel Krzyzanowski— News from home — Paulina's letter — Impressions during a walk . . . . . 243 CHAPTEE XVII. Early Autumn — Water excursion — Sand-banks— High tides — Autumnal aspect of Berezov— Solitary walk in the forest — Shamanic worshippers of larch-trees — Account of a woman who lost her way in the forest ..... 259 XXIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. The library at Tobolsk — Popularity of novels at Berezov — Tale-tcllerfi — Samoicdes — Their tents, habits, and religion — Tragic incident at Samarov — Kapustka fete — Anna Piotrowna — Public opinion on seduction — Alarm at the appearance of a bear . . 282 REVELATIONS OF SIBERIA. CHAPTER I. Journey from Kiov to Tobolsk — Departure — Prostration — Government instructions — Tula — Veteran soldier — Iron-works — Russian currency — Murom Forest — Nijny Novgorod — Its fair. On the 11th of March, old style, 1839, I left Kiov. The sun was sliining in all his brilhancy, yet the cold was intense, and no signs of the approach of spring were as yet visible. "We passed the Dnieper which was still ice-bound, in a sledge, by the road leading to Orel, and thus I set out on my long journey. No sooner had we crossed the Dnieper, than the post-horses commenced a gallop. I still tried to catch one more glimpse of Kiov, VOL. I. B I REYELATIONS gazing towards that ancient city again and again. At last it vanished in the dimness of distance, and then, unconscious of all around me, I could neither see nor hear anything. The only outward impressions, that I was yet capable of receiving, were the continuous ringing of the bells on the post-horses, cease- lessly tinkling in my ear, and the violent jerks and jolts when the sledge was tumbling up and down, over ruts and deep snow-holes on the road. These interruptions in some degree aroused me for a time from my state of abstraction and complete toqDor ; but at last even they ceased to produce the slightest impression on me. Arrivals at the station- houses, relays of horses, and numberless upsettings of the sledge, did indeed remind me at times of external objects ; but then, an excruciating headache, an acute pain in all the joints of my body, and the shortness of time in which post-horses were again fastened to the sledge, did not allow me an instant for observation; for no sooner had the bells begun to tinkle, than the sledge was again on its rapid breath-stifling course, leaping in and out of holes and hollows, timibling over ruts, OF SIBERIA. 3 and thus, without interruption, continuing on — on — on from day till night, from night till day, without a single intermission. At the commencement, I foimd my journey quite intolerable, as I could never sleep in travelling. Hence it may be imagined that my weariness was extreme, and that a few hours of rest had become absolutely neces- sary to recruit my failing strength. After travelling for two days and nights, on arriving at a station for the relay of horses, I alighted from the sledge and entered the post-house. Completely exhausted, I sank on the nearest bench, hoping to prociu^e some repose, though it were only for one short hour. But from the agony of my mind, all my endeavours to snatch a little sleep proved in- effectual, for although my body was, from sleeplessness, in a wretched state of prostra- tion, my mind, to my great distress, continued all the while active, and kept me awake. "Wliile I was undergoing such indescribable torture, my guard entered the room, and with an authoritative air insisted that I should immediately rise, as he had no time to lose on my journey, and I might very well take B 2 4 REVELATIONS my rest in the sledge. Irritated at his peremptory tone — not iinlilce a steed when made restive — I refused to obey, and, indeed, from my extreme debility, I could not in- stantly rise from the place, where I hoped I should be enabled to get a moment's rest. The master of the post, an old superannuated officer of the Eussian army, and a Eussian bybii'th, looked with pity on my wretched con- dition, and mistrusting my guard, demanded to see his instructions. On perusing the document, he immediately perceived that the guard was abusing his power, as, on account of my sex and my age, the Government in- structions had been framed in a considerate manner, and I, evidently, was not consigned to my escort, without restraint being im- posed on them, mitigating to some extent, and as circumstances might requii'e, the severity of ordinary regulations. The docu- ment containing these instructions, the humane officer read aloud in my presence, that I might understand my position. Thus accidentally, and for the fii'st time, I was in- formed exactly what were my obligations, and how far I was protected. Henceforward OF SIBERIA. 5 I could travel more comfortably, and more at my ease ; and as often as I felt much fatigued, I made my escort halt, to allow me repose. This was but the beginning of my journey ; yet when I retraced in my mind the distance I had traversed, and the fatigue I experienced on the route — when I looked back, and on- ward, comparing the distance already com- pleted with the immense space that still lay before me, I felt despondent beyond expres- sion. I thought of the trials wliich might be awaiting me on the road, and my courage sank. Yet there is nothing to wliich man may not, in the end, be accustomed ; nothing which he may not be brought to endure. Ere a week had elapsed, my ardent imagina- tion had considerably cooled, and become more hopeful. My frame, also, had lost much of its former susceptibility, and I could easily bear up against fatigue, l^ow I calmly re- sumed my seat in the sledge, without betray- ing the least sign of impatience, without fretting, without any aversions; but as if such was my daily business, and had long been the ordinary routine of my life. b REVELATIONS I had no cm-iosity respecting the coimtry tlu'ough wliicli we passed, or impatience to change one spot for another — peculiarities possessed generally by travellers, but abso- lutely unfolt by me. In the extraordinary situation in which I was, I could experience no kind of pleasurable emotion, and I viewed all things with utter indifference. I found nothing to hurry me on — nothing that was worthy to engage my attention, or to stimu- late my curiosity. I felt no desii'e, what- ever, to see any of the places or the scenery on the road. My wishes were never out- stripping — were never in advance of my sledge. My hours were quite at liberty to pass by as they pleased; my will had no share, no interest in them. In this frame of mind, I had traversed a great part of the territory of the government of Tcherniechov, and crossed the extensive steppes of the government of Orel, so called from the city of that name, situated on the river Oka, and at length arrived at Tula. While the horses were being changed at this town, I entered the post-house, driven in by the cold, from which I was suffering OF SIBERIA. 7 severely. Here I happily found an old soldier of the Minsk regiment of infantry, who some time back, when that regi- ment was stationed in our province, had his quarters in a village belonging to myself. This circumstance, trifling as it may appear, made us consider each other in the light of old acquaintances ; such as had seen the same objects and places, or, at least, had some reminiscences in common, which alone speaks volumes to those who, removed from their native place, happen to meet in a distant land. I shall for ever remember the few moments of conversation I had with the veteran soldier. In the reception room, at the same post- house, my attention was not a little attracted by various articles from the iron manufactory of Tula, admirable for their polish and lustre. They formed an agreeable exhibition, and were evidently exposed to view as a bait to travellers — such, at least, they were to me. Charmed by the display, I experienced a strong desire to make a choice of some of the more useftd of the articles, and take them with me as souvenirs from Tula. I 8 REVELATIONS thought, too, they woukl be of service to me, as I was gomg to a country which scarcely possessed any manufactures ; and having but little luggage, they would be no incumbrance. I made a selection of such as I considered would prove most serviceable for female work, as knives, scissors, bodkins, and such other trifling articles, and a seal, bearing a well- known larch tree for its symbol.* After I had duly settled my account, and was left alone, I was examining my purchases, and admii'ing theii' exquisite workmanship, when I fancied I heard a cautious step behind me, as though somebody was approaching, and suddenly felt a small roll of paper thrust into my hand. I instantly turned round, and beheld the veteran soldier, but he had abeady glided away, and now stood at a distance. He cast a significant glance at me, but was silent. " There is some mystery in all this," thought I ; but I made no remark. Curiosity is never more alive or more acute, than when it is stimulated by secrecy. I thrust the roll of paper in my pocket, waiting for * The larch-tree is symbolical of Siberia; and in this place, identical with banishment to that country. OF SIBERIA. 9 some favourable opportunity when I could read it unobserved, without running the risk of compromising the giver of it. I longed for this opportunity, and as soon as I saw my- self alone, I unfolded the crumpled paper, and read in Eussiau characters, traced some- what clumsily, as follows : " In paying bills, attend to the paper cur- rency, which is different in this country. You paid two roubles more than you ought. To prevent your being cheated in other places, I enclose for you ' Tables of the currency.' " After perusing the scrawl, I signified with a grateful look my thanks to the kind- hearted veteran. Afterwards I tried to make out in what manner I had been imposed upon, but could not unravel it ; having made my bargain in copper assignats of the cur- rency, and paid the amount due in the same coin. Pei-plexed by my calculations, I watched again for an opportunity to speak to the veteran, and obtain ffom him more accurate information on the subject. From his explanation, I found the system of cur- rency in those parts to be so strange and so intricate, that without the aid of the Tables, B 3 10 REVELATIONS and some notion of other technicalities, it was quite unintelligible. Not a single species of monetary currency, neither that of hoiimasJiki^ as the paper assignats are called, nor that of silver or copper, circulated according to its nominal or real value. It is true that in making the accounts, it was customary to reduce all to copper assignats as a fixed standard; but in the payment of bills amounting to twelve such assignats, only ten assignats were to be paid, and the matter was considered as settled. Why it was so, is to this day a perfect puzzle to me, and I am at a loss to account for it. As to silver coin in circulation, it was not taken ad valorem^ but in its relative value to the copper assignats; and this computation had some- how become so complicated by the fractional reduction of the kopeks^ that it was quite im- possible to get out of the maze of confusion, except with the aid of the Tables, or by means of long practice. Quite at a loss to comprehend the wisdom of such a monetary system, and still less to appreciate its expediency, but considering that on my farther journey the information OF SIBERIA. 11 miglit be very useful, I hunibly bowed to my informant, and put his Tables, with which he had the kindness to provide me, into my pocket ; and I had, indeed, frequent occasion to consult them. I cannot say that the knowledge of my having been cheated, had on this occasion been of any avail ; for no sooner had the vendor of the articles pocketed the money, than he vanished, and I did not see his face again. I should like to have seen the whole of Tula, which appeared to be a flourishing city; and I particularly wished to visit its iron foundries, and other manufacturing establishments, but I soon found how idle were all my aspirations. The implacable tinkling of bells began again to ring in my ears, accompanied by my guard's ill-omened song, ending in the customary refrain^ " Onwards — onwards — onwards." Tula, as far as I was able to judge from its exterior, is a beautiful town. It has broad streets, houses with iron balconies and iron gates, and gardens enclosed with railings, which make it appear fresh and neat, and altogether veiy picturesque. Its environs, however, failed to leave any such agreeable 12 REVELATIONS impression on my memory. Immense steppes, covered with snow, like vast winding-sheets, extended on all sides as far as the eye could reach. For many hundred versts on my route, no town, no village, and, indeed, no decent or tenable human habitation presented itself; and all that could be descried on that vast desert, were solitary mllows, standing at great distances from each other on the road, not so much to border it, as to indicate the way to the traveller. From Tula our way lay to Eazan. This town passed, we approached the great Murom Forest, celebrated in innumerable wonderful stories and ancient traditions, circulating among the people. The Murom Forest is especially renowned as the scene of countless robberies and murders, perpetrated in old and modern times. The imagination of the neigh- bouiing people seems never to weary of creating all sorts of new stories of this kind, or embellishing old ones. Post-masters and drivers, with fancy more or less poetical, and ever inclined to Oriental exaggeration, here, on this one theme, act the part of national bards, and recount these dismal tales with the greatest OF SIBERIA. 13 eagerness to the astoimded and fascinated traveller. I had much pleasure in listening to these wild stories, in so far as they appeared to be the fruit of a national poetry — originating naturally from a local source — and were not a mere offspring of imagination, artificially kindled and excited. Still, in spite of the strong impression they produced on my fellow- travellers and our military escort — spite of the solemn and earnest character of their preparations, such as loading of muskets, and searching for all possible weapons of defence, before we entered the dreadful forest — spite of all these measures of precaution, and the alarm which I detected in all countenances, I, for my part, felt not the least apprehension. There exist certain situations apt to exalt man above all events incidental to every-day life, rendering liim wholly inaccessible to all such emotions as fear. Placed in such cir- cumstances, we acquire a marvellous degree of independence, enabling us to look with contempt and utter indifference on what may cause dismay and alarm to others ; although, at other times, and under different cii'ciunstances. 14 REVELATIONS we should alike experience some disquietude. This condition, wliich raises us above the ordinaiy incidents of life, is our strength, our delight in misfortune, and was now my best consolation. We traversed the Murom Forest, the great theme of so many disquieting stories, in per- fect safety, without imdergoing any of the dreaded adventures ; and indeed, after jour- neying over such an extent of steppes, tire- some by their monotony, I might almost say that it afforded me a certain degree of plea- sure. I remember I felt much relieved amid the gi'andeur of the sylvan scenery ; and instead of meeting fierce bands of robbers, I saw only a variety of birds, flying singly or in flocks over our heads, and woodcocks dang- ling like as many caps on the branches of bu'ch trees. The flapping of their wings, while these birds were flying fi-om tree to tree, scared at the approach of human beings, was the only soimd heard in the silent soli- tude of the immense forest. The sight of these beautiful bii'ds, which were very nume- rous, made the blood of my Lithuanian heart glow with earlier feelings — and mine was the OF SIBERIA. 15 blood of the ancient huntsmen of Lithuania. I sprang up from my seat in the sledge, \\ith- out knowing wherefore ; while the woodcocks with a quiet and indifferent look, gazed on us from the trees near the road, as if to mock my inability to reach them. Every time we saw such flocks as these feathered tribes, an exclamation of delight burst from me, and for the moment 1 forgot my situation and my sorrows. Having traversed the Murom Forest, we approached the banks of the Wolga, and at last arrived at Nijny Novgorod, a city far famed for its fail's. As we drew nigh, the mass of buildings had the appearance of two separate towns, quite distinct from each other ; the Wolga intersecting and nmning between them. The one division was fidl of activity, business, and animation ; the other regidarly built, neat, and cleanly, but lifeless, without bearing any marks either of antiquity, or devastation by time. Quiet, immovable, and buried beneath snow, that part of the city appeared in a somnolent torpor, as if under the power of enchantment, and in its first form of youth, freshness, and grace. 16 REVELATIONS waiting for ages the arrival of that deliverer whose destiny it was to disenthral it, and restore it to life and action. After contemplating the silent scene for a few moments, I rubbed my eyes, and looked again, but all I saw remained an enigma. I asked myself what could have happened. Had the breath of plague passed over the city with its blighting influence ? Though it was apparently so fi-esh, and presented not a sign of decay, still all was solitary and dead! The mystery was soon cleared up. The portion of the city where we put up, was the place where the celebrated fair is held, called Makariev Pair, after the town of Makariev, whence it had been transferred to Nijny Novgorod in 1817. It lasts five weeks ; and during this season, that part of the town becomes the mart for the productions and manufactiu'es brought from all Europe and Asia, for sale or barter. The Wolga, by wliich the Baltic is united with the Caspian Sea, carries to this place merchandise from the south and the west. Here, the Calmucks, Persians, and Bukharians, come with the OF SIBERIA. 17 produce of their own coimtry ; the Chinese, with their tea and silks ; the Siberians, ^dth their fui's and cm-ious collections of precious stones. These and the Kke articles of raw produce, and the other riches of Asia, are exchanged for the choice commodities of Europe. It cheered me to see that, by means of commerce on the very spot where I then was, and which I saw so benumbed and almost dead, intercourse was yet maintained between so many nations, diifering in origin, customs, language, and religion; in the colour of their skin and in theii* dress ; in their physiognomy and civilization. Divided by nearly the whole of the globe, they here meet together on friendly terms, and be- come acquainted with each other, and humanized. The busy half of the city, which, at that time, was but just covered with snow, is awake and alive only for a few weeks. During this short period, however, all is activity and bustle within its precincts. Merchants from far and near congregate in the streets; hotels, houses, and huts swarm with a moving mass of strangers, and are overstocked with wares. 18 REVELATIONS For these few weeks of her existence, the disenchanted city lives a longer life than her sister, on the opposite shore, during the whole year. or SIBERIA. 19 CHAPTER II. Russian fare — Companions in exile — Arrival at Kazan — Discomforts at lodgings — Yisit from the Police Director — Yisit from a Russian matron — Eecollec- tions of Easter-day — Invitation from the landlady — Obstacles at departure — Aspect of the city — Yariety of races — Costumes — A Tartar chief and his wife. At Nijny Novgorod, having provisioned ourselves with bread and other necessaries, as, on account of the approaching Great Lent we could hardly expect to obtain at post-stations anything but barshtch,* with * Ba/rshtch is made of beet-root, as sour-krout is of cabbages, set in fermentation, namely, by the following process : a quantity of fi-esh-pulled beet-root is put in an earthen pan filled with water, and loaves of rye 20 REVELATIONS oil, gruel, and sour-ki'out, all which are but meagre fare, we continued our route on the ice-bound Wolga to Kazan. I have used the plural number, because I left Kiev simul- taneously with Madame Pauline Wilczopolska flour are added to create fermentation. A cover is put over the pan, and hermetically closed with a rim of soft paste, to prevent the air from entering. It is then set in a warm place for ten days, after which it will draw out vinegar from the beet-root, very red and sour. To make a dish of harshtch, various other ingredients, as onions, celery, cloves, pepper, bayleaves, &c., are added to make it savoury. It may be boiled with every kind of meat ; and on Lenten days with cream and oil, which is the Russian way, and not relished by our authoress. Many other unknown dishes are mentioned in her book — some even described by her ; and receipts for others, as the Polish cake, hahj, larshtch, and the Eussian shtcy, or sour-krout, may be found in Mr. Bregion's '' Practical Cook." The ingredients, and the mode of preparation of the latter, as stated in that book, are so various and so expensive, that dishes so prepared are real dainties, calculated solely for seignorial or royal tables. The late Emperor Alexander relished the harshtch, and so many do ; it is, like sour-krout, medi- cinal and anti-scorbutic, and much nicer. The Russian dishes, as referred to by our authoress in her book, must be presumed to have been quite different, and consisting of more simple compounds. — Ed. OF SIBERIA. 21 and Miss Josephine Ezonzewska, who were my travelling companions. Both these ladies were destined for other places ; but we were to travel together on the same route as far as Tobolsk. We arrived at Kazan on Good Friday. Being tired, famished, and exhausted, we resolved to profit by the indulgences granted in the instructions, and rest awhile in this city, at least during the Easter festival. We communicated our joint wishes to the Ser- geant, our principal guard, and as they coin- cided with his own, he readily agreed to them. It was, however, necessary to go first thi-ough certain forms, and having aiTanged measures with us, he left us in the sledge in the public street, commending us to the surveillance of his subalterns, and went to present himself to the authorities, to deliver his despatches, and receive farther orders. We waited his return with undis- sembled impatience, and strove to amuse ourselves meanwhile by looldng at the town. But, as ill luck would have it, darkness came on, enveloping eveiy object, and so even this resource was denied us. Two, three, and four hours passed, and still 22 REVELATIONS the Sergeant did not make his appearance. The darkness of night did not, as may be fancied, in the least diminish oui' impatience. Hunger, cold, and prostration of body and mind, and the vehement curses of the postil- lion, who was likewise worn out by long waiting, added beyond measure to our suffer- ings. At last, the postillion advised us to take shelter in some inn, or a shed, and not to remain in the street to perish with cold and hunger ; but our guardian escort would not hear of such a proposition, but insisted that we should remain where we were till the commander arrived. Even they, however, were worn out eventually, and we were suffered to put up at an inn. It was now about ten o'clock; and no sooner did we enter the room, and felt the genial warmth, than we entirely forgot our other wants, being seized with an overwhelm- ing inclination to sleep, which involuntarily closed our eyes. A carpet spread on the floor, and a pillow under our heads, was the extent of our wishes — the earthly paradise our hearts sighed for ; and directly we laid down, we sank into a profound sleep. It was not, however, long before we were, OF SIBERIA. 23 to om' great annoyance, disturbed by our sergeant, wbo brought us otherwise agreeable news, namely, that the authorities had com- plied with oiu' wishes, and that quarters were ready for us, but that we must proceed to them immediately. We besought permission to pass the remainder of the night where we were, but our entreaties were in vain. We were answered that this was impossible, and that an officer was waiting in the adjoining room who was to see us to our assigned lodgings. We saw there was no remedy, and that we must quit our warm chamber, resign our cherished pillows, and go to the new quarters. Accordingly we got up and collected our luggage, consoling ourselves with the thought that for all this trouble we should in the end be indemnified by undis- tiu'bed rest during the following two days. It did not take long to pack up, so that the officer who was to accompany us, and who was very considerate, was not kept waiting. But another annoyance was in store for us. At midnight it was not easy to find horses, and our own post-horses were gone. Thi'ough the activity, however, of our 24 REVELATIONS Sergeant, imited to the efforts of the officer, all difficulties were at last overcome. On arriving at our quarters it was past two o'clock, and we found oui'selves in a house which had long beennuiinhabited, and which gave forth a damp and musty odoiu*, so oppressive as scarcely to suffer us to breathe. The walls were mouldy, and reeked with moisture, and were covered with a swarm of black worms, known in Lithuania by the name of prusaJci (Prussians), and in Eussia by that of tarakany ; amongst which huge black cockroaches — a different species of insect from the former — crawled, not unlike officers among soldiers, in various dii-ections on the wall. At this miserable spectacle a thi-ill of horror crept over my fi^ame. The idea of a struggle at night, and in the dark, with whole hosts of such hideous vermin, appeared to us beyond the possibility of endurance ; and we all beseechingly implored the indulgence of the officer to be allowed to pass the night in sledges, in the open coui't-yard, where we could at least breathe freely, and be unmo- lested by such horrid creatui'es. The officer OF SIBERIA. 25 felt embarrassed by oiu* request, and we could see that lie sincerely desired, as far as it depended on him, to seciu-e us a comfortable night's rest. "I acted for the best," he said, "in bringing you here. I certainly could have taken another house, which was dry and clean ; but reflecting that as you arrived yesterday perishing with cold, you might wish above all things for warm rooms, I chose this; for the other house is exceeding^ cold." " Even if a thousand times colder, if there be such let us go,'' we all cried, as with one voice. The officer instantly ran outside to give orders not to cany down the things. He soon retiuned, and said that the horses were abeady taken out of the sledges, but that he had ordered them to be put in again. We thanked him, and offered to go on foot, if but to draw breath in the open air; and thus leaving our sledges behind, we proceeded, led by the officer to the other house. We soon arrived there, and were satisfied with it ; for though very cold, we foimd that at least it VOL. I. c 26 REVELATIONS was clean and dry. The officer who had so kindly escorted us now took leave ; and we once more set about preparing our beds. Before we finished our arrangements it was near daylight, and whether owing to our shifting from place to place, or our consequent agitation, our inclination for sleep had by this time forsaken us. But reflecting that we had an entire day for rest, we closed the window-shutters, and threw ourselves on oui* couches, the more joyfidly as we felt confident that we should not be distiu-bcd by any summons for departure. For some time we sought to console and comfoi't each other, and felt so soothed by our efi'orts, that even- tually we fell into a sweet slumber ; and I know not how long we should have enjoyed it, had we not been suddenly aroused by a ^dolent knocking at our door. We then heard our Sergeant's voice outside, annoimcing that the Dii-ector of the Police had come, and wanted to speak to us. We immediately started up and opened the Tvdndow-shutters ; and then, with the utmost dispatch, arranged om' travelling toilette, and expressed our rea- diness to receive that important functionary. OF SIBERIA. 27 On entering, the Dii-ector of the Police inquired very civilly how we were satisfied with our quarters, and whether we had slept well. We, in our turn, politely answered that we were perfectly satisfied. " I very much rejoice that it is so," said he ; " and since you no longer feel fatigue, you will, my ladies, be prepared to set out this day on your further journey." We cast on each other a look of extreme disappointment. So much trouble, worry, and vexation — and all this for nothing : not even one single day of repose after a sleep- less night, were the thoughts that flitted through our minds. "I am not sure. Sir," said I, at length; "but you might, perhaps, know, that by the instructions regulating our journey, we are allowed some moments for repose, if we re- quire it, m all government towns. We, therefore, fii-mly rely on the favourable tenor of the regulations, that this will be conceded to us ; and we have no suspicion, Sii', that you will try to iafriage them." "This is all true," said he. "You cer- tainly have this permission granted to you, c 2 28 EEVELATIONS ladies, by the regulations. Still, as you have already, to all appearance, taken sufficient rest from yoiu- journey, you will not, I hope, be the worse for continuing it to-day further." To this I said not a word. The func- tionary seemed to have expected fiu-ther com- plaints or solicitations, when he might have relented and yielded ; but, after a few mo- ments' pause, observing nothing but resig- nation and silence, he said : " Well, then, to please you, ladies, I per- mit you to remain here a few hours longer." We received his decree with deference ; and he then took leave. Vexed, disappointed, and quite worn out Avith fatigue, we commenced packing, deter- mined not to be again tempted, even if occa- sion offered, to stop on the road ; but, however wearied we might be, continue our journey, as nothing could be so harassing as these interruptions. Calling in our Sergeant, we announced that we were instantly to leave the place. But all around seemed to be engrossed with the sole idea of Easter, and how to pass it OF SIBERIA. 29 joyfully : nobody was preparing for the jour- ney, or cared to stii\ The clerks in the pub- lic offices, and the postillions, thought of nothing but the blithesome festival ; and so, taking our seats on our luggage, we awaited the result, not knowing what to do. Sud- denly the door opened, and we received an unexpected visit. A respectable elderly mati'on entered the room. I forget her name, though she an- nounced it on presenting herself. She was the widow of a Eussian colonel, and had been at Warsaw with her husband when his regi- ment was quartered in the neighbourhood. She had then formed many acquaintances in that city, and could not forget the happy days she had spent in Poland. On being apprised of our arrival from that remote country, without any friends or acquaintance in this foreign land, she came to assm^e us of her sympathy, and, according to the custom of the place on Easter-day, to present us with a red egg. Expressing our sincere thanlis to the worthy matron for her com'tesy, we accepted her kind present, wishing her many happy 30 REVELATIONS returns of the season, and we had the plea- siu'e of half-an-honr's most interesting con- versation with her. After she left us, and we were again given up to our reflections, the sight of the painted eggs brought innu- merable recollections into our minds — all con- nected with this mii'thful though solemn fes- tival, as commemorated in our own countiy. There all the days are devoted to acts of hospitality — to meetings with relatives and friends. Dui'ing that happy period, the aged and young assemble at festive boards, ex- changing mutual remembrances, and con- tracting new links or sympathies. Associa- tions are then formed, ineffaceable from memory, and for ever dear to the heart. While we thus indulged in silent commu- nion with ourselves, the animal natui'e of man, with its inferior cravings, started up on the scene. Himger failed not to call up far different associations and recollections ; and, along with these, a train of enjoyments — as tables covered with a variety of viands — fat hams, roasted pigs, stuffings, and sausages ; and a profusion of delicious cakes, the famous hahy^ and the mazurki. These various deli- OF SIBERIA. 31 cacies presented themselves to our imagina- tion in vivid coloui'S, and with their ambro- sial odour and aroma of spices, quite capti- vated our senses. We then experienced that nothing so powerfully excites the imagination as a famished stomach. The eggs J which the Colonel's dowager had kindly presented us, were swallowed in a twinkling, with a voracity not easy to be described. Poor dame ! she little suspected that, in performiag usual formalities, she had administered to our wants. But her gift was not unlike a fly snatched by a voracious dog, go little did it satisfy our craving appetite. We instantly called our Sergeant, and begged him to send somebody to the market to fetch some ham, sausages, rolls, or whatever could be got in the town. " There is no market to-day," was his answer. " Besides, no such things are sold here." " How ! Is there no food to be had then ? " I asked. " I do not know," he replied. " Surely, neither you nor your companions can exist without food ?" 32 REVELATIONS *' We ordered our landlady to fiu'iiish us with some eatables." " Ask her, then, to do the same for us." " But you, ladies, will, perhaps, not relish the fare which we eat." " You are jesting," I replied. " Those who are perishing of hunger, can they be fastidious ?" The Sergeant left us to give his orders. Meanwhile oui* meditations involuntarily re- curred to our own country, and the Easter festivities of our native homes. What an abundance during that season exists every- where, fi'om the stately palace to the hum- blest hut ! With what cordial hospitality the traveller, frequently a complete stranger, is welcomed even by the poorest man, to partake with him and his family of the consecrated egg and of his household meal ; the host rejoicing that Heaven had sent him a guest. And thus all, be they rich or poor, are satiated with the good things which a bountiful Providence has vouchsafed. At these reminiscences a sigh arose, and I in- wardly prayed that God would preserve my country from being contaminated with OF SIBERIA. 33 foreign manners, that this national custom might never be obliterated — a custom which has for ages united, with such a beautiful link, hospitality and the observances of reli- gion. In the midst of these meditations, we were interrupted by the entrance of our landlady, a person belonging to the biurgher class of Kazan. Without any preamble, she announced, with the greatest simplicity imaginable, that she had a number of friends in the house, and as they were all desirous of seeing what Polish ladies were like, asked whether we would not come down-stairs to give them that pleasui'e ; and we might at the same time see what eatables she had that would please us, as she knew not our customs or tastes. We looked at each other, and could not help smiling. We were desii-ed to act the part oi iheatrical fi(/ur antes, neither more nor less, before the descendants of the Tartars. Our self-respect had been aroused and hurt ; but it soon yielded to a frolicsome mood. " What hurt can there be,'' we began to reason within ourselves, " in becoming for c 3 34 REVELATIONS awhile objects of cimosity to people of whom we know nothing? Are they not willing to repay us with reciprocity ? sight for sight-'— spectacle for spectacle. Such is the way, and such is the daily routine of the world. In fine, we shall be made partakers of their henit.''''* Having arrived at this laudable resolution, we answered that we would com- ply with her request, and would soon come down-stairs. ITo sooner had oui' hostess passed the door, than each of us thought of nothing but her toilet. We unpacked, and endeavoured as well as we coidd to arrange our di-esses, which after a fortnight's travelling, had, as may be imagined, neither freshness nor elegance to * The henit, Polish swiencone, is a custom peculiar to Poland, and in part also to Russia. After the Great Lent, terminating on Easter-day, no meat is touched, even on that day, until it has been blessed and consecrated by the priest ; whence the name lenit (benediction) was derived. The display of the viands of all sorts on that occasion is very great ; and the tables are not only sump- tuous, but are kept open for friends, and even for stran- gers. Easter is, on that account, a day of unbounded hospitality. OF SIBERIA. 35 recommend them ; but, 'to make up for that, we resolved to render them at least as smart as possible, which being done, we descended, as we had promised, to gratify the curiosity of the impatient public. We entered the room, and were led to a place of honoiu", where we seated ourselves. Some conventional inquiiies were made of us, which we civilly answered, and were then silent. But, to my shame be it confessed, I was not satisfied with the charm of exchang- ing my ideas with the company, but looked right and left to see if there was a table which would promise some more substantial fare. To my chagrin, however, I was unable to catch a sight of anything like the longed- for henii. All I could see was a table at the window, opposite the door, covered with a clean white cloth (emblematic of the festival), on which were aiTanged three small plates, one con- taining a frozen apple cut in tiny slices spread over with sugar ; another embellished with a few raisins ; and the third containing some kind of nuts, in shells, or rather husks, of chesnut-brown colour. 36 REVELATIONS The hostess took up these, one plate after another, fi-om the table, and presented us with the contents of each. She entreated, and pressed us to partake of them ; but not- withstanding all the civility with Avhich she was offering them, oui- hunger had acquired such a poignancy, that all her kind entreaties were in vain. All the dainties were quite unsuited to our palate. I now learnt that the unknown species of husky fruit which excited my curiosity, were cedar nuts, an importation fi'om Siberia. Having waited awhile, and lost all pros- pect of a more solid refi'eshment, I asked our hostess whether she had prepared something for us, and especially if there was no meat. However I was astonished to find from her reply, that in Eussia no preparations whatever are made for Easter ; that tables are not groaning under viands, cakes, and all sorts of generous food, as is the custom in Poland. In short, there was notliing of the Idnd, abso- lutely nothing. All we could get was harshtch with some meat in it, which we ordered to be brought up to our room. After recruiting om' strength with this OF SIBERIA. 37 humble meal, we were all ready for depar- tiu-e. But cii'cumstances over which we had no control deferred this event. From some reason or other post-horses could not be got ; our papers were not yet signed by the authorities ; and so we remained all day in uncertainty and suspense. At last, towards evening, the horses were brought; but the papers were yet wanting. Our Sergeant was running from one office to another like one enraged, to obtain his despatches, but could not get them. In this state of j)ertui"ba- tion we remained the whole night. The postillion, losing all patience, took back his horses ; and we ourselves, seeing what was going on, began to feel drowsy, and leaned our heads on our luggage to sleep. At day- break, the Sergeant returned, not having suc- ceeded in his piu'pose. Nevertheless, he shortly after ordered the horses to be put to, hoping there would be a chance of finding the Director of Police at home in passing his house. He was directed to do so by th<5se who knew the habits of that official. When we left our quarters the sun had not yet risen; but the morning was beautiful. We stopped at the police-office, and the 38 REVELATIONS Sergeant descended for his papers ; but he retiu-ned sadly disappointed, as the Director, having passed a sleepless night, had just then gone to bed, and could not be distui'bed. Thus we were again doomed to wait several hours in the public street. Such delay was exceedingly annoying, as the day was brilliant, and most favourable for our journey. "We witnessed the sun rise in all his splendour, and the prolonged twilight, in so large a city as Kazan, seemed like the awaking, or, if I might say so, the unclos- ing of the eyelids of its numerous popula- tion, which in itself was something fasci- nating. It struck me that those who are first aroused for the daily toils and duties in life, or who are among the earliest risers in towns, constituted, as it were, a separate family, differing from others by its distinct physiognomy. They are the slavish tools to the children of luxury, and are made sub- servient to their various wants and comforts. Each member of that class appears to be marked on his forehead by tliis double inscription: ''Eeadiness for labour — Neces- sity of gain." I often looked around to see what sort of OF SIBERIA. 39 city Kazan was. As far as I was enabled to observe, clui'ing our passage, it appeared to be a fine and extensive town, mtii a good number of public edifices, and neat private houses, built of brick. Not a vestige of the former domination of the Tartars exists in it, but the progress of European civilization is everywhere discernible.* The streets are broad and well-paved. There is a university, an asti'onomical observatory, a gymnasium, and some manufactories, all of which make the traveller forget that he is in the capital, and the heart of the country of the once so redoubtable Tartars, famous in Europe by their inroads, conquests, and devastating ravages. After the lapse of several houi's, it was announced that the Director had risen. It then took but a few minutes to sign the required papers, and return them to our * A great fire, whicli took place in 1815, destroyed nearly the whole town, except the Kremlin and a few churches, most of the houses being built of wood; so that, with these exceptions, no vestiges of the ancient city remains. Its population is about 65,000, one-fifth Tartar. 40 REVELATIONS Sergeant; and now we were at liberty to continue oiu' journey. The population of the government of Kazan, both on the right and the left bank of the Wolga, consists of a number of various races, as the Tcheremisy, Mordwini, Tchuvatchs, Votiaks, Vogulitches, and Tartars, all differ- ing from each other in language, dress, reli- gion, and customs. The Tartars, however, seemed to constitute a majority among the motley crowd. The whole aspect of the country is peculiarly Asiatic. Villages are built of wood, most of them with high minarets, also of wood. Amidst a variety of costumes, white turbans may at times be seen adorning the heads of the MoUahs, and also long veils concealing the faces of women. The Tartar women wear long chemises, embroidered in front with coloured worsted, and this is all their apparel. The men, if they do not belong to the religious order, are di-essed in a loose costume, very much resem- bling the gabardines of the Jews in Poland. It consists of a kaftan with short sleeviBS, tight round, without any folds in front or beliind, and a high-pointed cap, with broad OF SIBERIA. 41 flaps on both sides, lined with fnr. Some Tartars, also, wear fnll coats, like our dres- sing-gowns, and small caps on the top of their heads, similar to oiu' jockey-caps, or the krymki of the Polish Jews. Thi'oughout oui' jom-ney, wherever we stopped for a relay of horses, we were snr- roimded by a crowd of people, at first cuiiously gazing onus as visitors from a distant country, and then minutely examining all our pack- ages. Often, as if not trusting the evidence of their eyes, they stepped nearer, and touched everything that had engaged their fancy with their hands. Women, especially, were very eager in satisfying their curiosity ; in which respect we made no difficulty, and permitted them to inspect everytliing closely. This politeness on our part, I must own, was no great merit, being not entirely disin- terested. The costumes of these nymphs of the Wolga were liliewise distinguished by such an originality, that we, on our part, were equally cimous to examine them. In per- mitting them a near approach, we were only pandering to our owti curiosity. Nearly at every succeeding station such a variety of 42 REVELATIONS costume was presented to our view, as though we had arrived in quite a different country. The head-coverings of some were in the shape of tablets, falling in a perpendicular line on the forehead. Some were studded with a quantity of silver and gold coins, giving forth a sound at every movement of the head. Others were fashioned in the shape of diadems, cut out at the top in the fonn of a crescent, the ends of which projected on both sides, like two horns. These diadems, as well as the tablets, were adorned with a number of plates and studs of brass and of other metals. Some females had their bosoms and necks covered with silver and gold medals of various si2;es, and a portion being bored and strung together, formed a sort of costly necklace. I should not end were I to describe all the costumes which struck me as exceedingly original and remarkable ; and, indeed, all description would fall short of correctness. My impressions, though gathered on the spot, were but momentary, and I noted them only in memory, having neither paper nor ink to make memoranda. At one of the post stations between Kazan OF SIBERIA. 43 and Perm, a chief of a village, actuated, as I suspected, less by politeness than curiosity, arrived to pay his respects to us. He was no longer young, but looked robust. He was di'essed in a broad kaftan, with a turban on his head, and led his wife by the hand, whom he presented to me. A long veil was thrown over her head, concealing the whole of her waist, and her other di-ess. Her face, how- ever, was uncovered ; but it was honible to look at, so thickly was it overlaid with rouge, white and crimson ; and her eyebrows were painted jet-black. It bore not the least ap- pearance of a human face, but more that of a hideous mask, or a doll made of parchment. Her bedizened visage, and her fantastic cos- tume, made me think that we, at that moment, were at a masquerade, and had one of its most perfect patterns before us. It was not, however, long before I repressed my foolish wonder at her figure, and resumed an earnest countenance. Having formerly had frequent opportunities of seeing the Tartars, and not being at aU a stranger to their manners, I entered into conversation with this strange couple. 44 REVELATIONS " How many wives have you got?" I asked the Mussulman. " Four," replied he. " Why did you not bring them all here ?" " All the others are old and ugly ; I never take them with me. This one is but thirty- two years, and I am proud of her," answered he, casting a doating glance on his better half. " How many children have you ? " " Only four sons and nine daughters," re- plied he, with a mournful shake of his head, as if desirous we should pity him. To give his sorrow on that account a ludi- crous turn, I continued : " They are handsome, lusty maidens, surely, and you will get a good round sum of money for them." " But has it not cost me much to rear them ? I much doubt that I shall get back my money," replied he. Such was this worthy and calculating pater familias of the Steppe. OF SIBERIA. 45 CHAPTEE III. Perm — Xew villages — Ural Mountains — Ekaterinburg — A roguish innkeeper — Post-carts — Defects of female education — Tumen — Anationalrelic — Tobolsk — Com- patriots in Exile — Devotedness of a young lady — De- parture — Inundation — Bronikov — Counter-order to return. From Kazan to Perm, we continued oui- journey amidst a barbarous population, rem- nants of different nations and races, of which, at a period not far distant, the ancient Tartar Khanate of Kazan was composed. We ar- rived at last at Perm, which is now the capital of the Government of that name. It is a mean and poor town, on the river Kama, with a scanty population, amounting to only 46 REVELATIONS seven thousand inhabitants. Sixty years ago, it was but a small -village ; but the Eussian Government, finding it necessary to have a central place for the new Government, created it into a city in 1781, since which time it has been materially enlarged. Perm may be said to be at the base of the Ural Mountains. On quitting this town, we found ourselves at the foot of those heights, and could behold their stupendous summits. It is here that the earth has opened rich stores of wealth to human laboiu' and industry. We saw large, beautiful, and populous villages, like as many infant towns springing up around, some of them with hundreds of neat, well-built, and comfortable houses. Their rapid growth struck us with amaze- ment, and agreeably engaged oiu* attention. Everywhere we saw industry and labour recompensed by wealth and comforts. The soul seemed to expand at this change from low and miserable hovels by the side of stately and magnificent palaces. Far and near we beheld prosperity, and not a single mean or poor cottage along the whole of the macadamised chaussee. or SIBERIA. 47 At the sight of villages of two huncli-ed to three himdi-ed houses, well-built, spacious, and erected not without some display of architectural taste, all equal in dimensions, in regular rows, and new and fresh as though they were constructed at once, and within a single day, my mind was led to consider what this region, not long ago a complete desert, owed to the powerfal hand which re- claimed it — not for gorgeous palaces, to be tenanted by the luxurious and pampered few, or for stupendous monuments to flatter the vanity of the mighty and the proud, but for what is, indeed, far more commendable — hand- some and comfortable dwellings for many thousands of human beings, in reward for their labour. The spot bore the appearance of being on a sudden created by means of a magic power. That creative power is nothing else than industry, directed by intelligence, and combined with labour and perseverance. These flourishing villages are occupied by colonies of artisans and miners employed in the mining works. They go by the appellation of Zavody. Some of them are the property of the Crown, others of Eussian nobles. 48 REVELATIONS The whole ridge of the Ural Mountains is fuiTowed up by mines, chiefly of iron and copper. Some, however, yield the more precious metals, and also valuable stones. On our passage over the heights, at the stations where we changed horses, we fi'e- quently had pictures offered to us for sale — a circumstance I little expected in a region so little famed for the fine arts. They were productions of the villagers ; and the objects represented were, for the most part, the Virgm Mary and the Saints of the Greek Chui'ch — gaudy and coarse daubings on wood, with nothing particular to recommend them. But what attracted my attention far more, was the landscapes, in which these figiu*es, the objects of so much veneration, were represented standing. These landscapes were relievos of mosaic, formed of a multiplicity of various- coloured stones, large and small, not polished, but such as are found in their natural state. Topazes white and pale, amethysts, aqua- marines, cornelians, blood stones, emeralds, chalcedonies, and others, when so combined, produce a wonderful eflect ; and, undeniably, the conception is no less original than striking. or SIBERIA. 49 The range of the Uralian Mountains is of enormous extent. The road from Perm to Ekatarinburg runs in an oblique dii'ection, and therefore its real breadth cannnot be exactly defined ; but as the chausee was con- stantly ascending, and we were passing on it from one acclivity to another for several days, the distance may safely be computed at se- veral hundred miles. The road on which we travelled was well made and even, as are, upon the whole, all roads constructed by the Government. The mountains are covered with forest, spreading over cliifs of colossal height, which protrude in a fearful manner. These gigantic masses, rising fi-om their bases like so many castellated structures — some con- tiguous, other at greater distances from each other, standing apart solitary, bare and impending, look like giants under the power of enchantment, placed here to combat storms and drifts of snow, which in vain try to shake or entomb them. Others, of a bulk less stupendous, rear their summits one upon another, forming themselves into huge pyramids ; while some are thrown into the VOL. I. D 50 REVELATIONS most fantastic shapes, as though an invisible hand, playing with their enormous peaks, had scattered them at hazard around. Prime- val forests, and trees of centemiial growth, spread out their broad branches in vain to conceal the nakedness of these giants, tower- ing in the vast desert ; they, thi-ough winter and tlirough summer, ever remain the same — and ever will ! Having crossed this sterile tract, we ar- rived at Ekatarinburg, nother beautiful town of the Government of Perm, far superior to the capital of the province. This flemishing town lies on the Iset. At the first glance at this river, it became manifest, fi'om the character of its cmTent, that it did not emerge from the Uralian range ; as all rivers originating in these mountains, pursue their course westward, and then, brandling out in southern and northern direc- tions, one set empty their waters into the Caspian Sea, and the other into the Ai'ctic Ocean. We immediately observed that the currents took a contrary, that is, an easterly direction, emptying themselves into the Oby, The latter, one of the grandest rivers of OF SIBERIA. 61 Siberia, after taking up its innumerable tribu- taries from the west, the south, and the east — overflo^ving by its ramifications vast countries in its course, falls thi'ough the Oby Gulf into the Ai'ctic Ocean. Ekatarinbiu'g is one of the towns founded in 1723, and contains a good number of fine buildings. It is the central point of the ad- ministration of mining, with a mint estab- lished by Government, and is tolerably populous. It is, besides, celebrated for its mines and iron- works, its mineral ores, and its process of polishing precious stones.* Gems of every kind, and all sorts of jewellery, can be had here at a very moderate price. Amethysts, opals, chalcedonies, chiysolites, * This town is particularly celebrated for its mala- cliite works, specimens of wHch, as a magnificent folding-door, superb tables, chairs, and vases, were dis- played at the Great Exhibition. The richest mines of malachite are Dimidof's property. On this spot, the rough blocks of malachite, according to CottreU's state- ment, are sold for eight hundred rubles the pud, or about a guinea a-pound. It is not the mineral itself that is expensive ; but, from its extreme hardness, the working and polishing are very difficult, and enhance its value. D 2 52 EEVELATIONS topazes, aquamarines, emeralds, and a variety of rock-crystals, are exposed for sale in great quantities, polished and unpolished; and some are not inelegantly set. But like a famished Arab, who happened to find in the desert a bag filled with pearls, and kicked it away with his foot, saying : " These were but pearls," so I cast myself a look of complete indifference at them, obliged to move on, on — and still on. Had it depended upon my own will, indeed, I certainly should have stayed awhile longer. The survey I could then have taken of the mining establishments and the different manufactories, as well as the manner of living, and the social condition of the inhabi- tants, would, I am sure, have afforded me much pleasure. The well-being of human com- munities in happy groups, is a matter at once as dear to the heart as instructive to the mind ; but the study of such a picture was not for me ! Up to this time the sledge was our veliicle, and the roads being good and even, we travelled at a tolerably good pace. We were constantly moving in the eastward direction, in wliich we hoped to continue till we should reach Tobolsk. But on our arrival at Ekata- OF SIBERIA. 53 riuburg matters changed, and instead of snow and frost, there was a thaw, and the horses waded with oiu- sledge knee-deep in mud and mii'e. This was a great disappointment, and a serious aimoyance to us. We were obliged to put up at an inn, and our Sergeant, impa- tient to proceed, went to make inquiries as to the state of the road, and to effect arrange- ments accordingly. On his retui-n, he brought us the disagreeable news, that on the road to Tobolsk no snow was to be found, and therefore it would be necessary to abandon our sledge. ]!^othing could be more provoking. Our combined purses being very light, and we having little chance of seeing them soon re- plenished, we found it impossible to procure a spring carriage of the meanest description. In this dilemma we were advised to take a miserable Russian post-waggon (^perek-ladna). There was no time to deliberate. Our comfortable sledge became the property of the innkeeper, who, "feeling for our situa- tion, (as he said,) and out of pure magna- nimity," paid a few rubles for it to our 54 REVELATIONS Sergeant. Unwilling as we were, we un- packed all, and put our luggage, as well as we could, on the new veliicle, and so set off. Here I cannot help saying, without fear of being accused of affectation, that the Eussian post vehicles, or more properly, common carts, sometimes called tarantas^ are insufferable — nay, detestable. For this seeming fastidious- ness, if I should be taxed with it, my sex, my age, and my previous habits, must plead an apology. These carts are high and short, and from this peculiar construction, are exceed- ingly shaky. They are very shallow, and much higher in front than behind, which renders it extremely difficult to sit on them, and keep one's balance. Consequently, at every concussion, I was made to jump up a quarter of a yard liigh, to the complete dislo- cation of my joints. At such jerks and jolts, tears involuntarily gushed fi'om my eyes. We gladly left Ekatarinburg, where the streets were all mud and mire, and proceeded on our tedious journey. To our surprise, we had hardly gone one verst from the town, when we found the road again covered with snow. As we went on the snow grew deeper, OF SIBERIA. 55 and wherever the eye turned, its white mantle covered the earth. I now entered into con- versation with oni' di'iver {jjamstcliik\ and learnt, to my utter astonishment, that with the exception of Ekatarinburg, we should meet nothing but snow through the whole road to Tobolsk. He also told me that all the people at the post-station had been at a loss to understand how we could wish to ex- change our comfortable sledge for our present odious vehicle. Instantly, a thought flashed across my mind, that we were the victims either of some knavish trick, or some misunderstanding, and, order- ing the driver to stop, I called the Sergeant, and communicated to him what I had heard, at the same time inquiring where he had obtained his information that there was no snow on the road to Tobolsk — a report, which, as he himself might see, was not true. From the Sergeant's answer, it appeared that his inquiries had been confined to our iim; and the inkeeper, from the paltry motive of profiting by the piu'chase of our sledge, had imposed upon him, and placed us in this dismal plight. Em-aged, however, at such 56 REVELATIONS infamous conduct, and ashamed of being so grossly cheated, he instantly despatched two gens-d'armes to Ekatarinburg, with the money which he had got fi'om the innkeeper, to demand the restitution of om^ sledge ; and should this be refused, they were to complain to the authorities. Meanwhile, we went on to the next station, there to await the result. On our arrival there, I was so extremely tired, and felt so ill, that I was not very sony at the occasion thus offered for a moment's repose, knowing that the gens-d'armes could not return for some time. After long expectation, they at length came back, but brought no sledge. The magnanimous purchaser, who had bought it for several rubles, " in consideration of our j)osition," would on no account part with the excellent bargain he had made ; and the authorities, to whom the case was referred, decided that, as the money had been accepted, and the purchase was made in consequence of a volimtary agreement on both sides, they saw no reason for reversing the transaction. Thus having lost our cause, and in addition OF SIBERIA. 57 several rubles for the hii'e of horses for the gens-d'armeSj nothing remained but to pro- ceed in our own wretched cart, which, by- the-bye, we could have given us at every post-station, as we had a right to demand it. Instead of this wheel-cart, however, to our great delight, each of the succeeding stations accommodated us with sledges, and hence- forward we found our travelling more comfortable : at least we ran no risk of being shaken to atoms. The only inconvenience now was, that on our arrival at each station we had to transfer our luggage from sledge to sledge — an operation which was at first very annoying, as I had no servant. Insignificant as this circumstance may appear, it made me often reflect on the defects of om* system of educa- tion, in consequence of which so large a class of females are made completely dependent on the services of hirelings. I firmly determined for the futm-e to get rid, on my part, of such an injm'ious habit, and did not at all regret that an opportimity was then offered for my entering at once upon that practical coui'se. D 3 58 REA^ELATIONS At last we amvecl in the Government of Tobolsk. Those only who have had to per- form so long a journey, equally tedious and uncomfortable, can conceive how agreeable it was to be able to contemplate its termination, however unpromising and iminviting might be the spot before us. In painfal situations, change of place gives relief; and it is like that which is experienced by the bed-ridden when they turn on their other side. Still, Tobolsk itself was not so near. We had yet to traverse a thousand versts.* Nevertheless, my imagination had abeady become familiarized with great distances. The whole difficulty lies in the termination of the first half of our journey ; and the other half, at every step made in advance, becomes by degrees more endurable. A thinly-inhabited steppe, little better than a desert, brought us to the small town of Tumen, situated at 250 versts from Tobolsk. This is the principal town of the district, which is called by the same name, and is di- vided into two parts by the river Tara. I * A Russian icerst is equal to about three-quarters of an Ens'lisli mile. OF SIBERIA. 59 observed there were some manufactiu^ing es- tablishments here, and among them, a foundry for chm'ch bells. On the bank of the Tara I saw a building erected by the inhabitants to preserve the boat in which Alexander, the heir-apparent to the Eussian crown, was fenied across the river, when on his visit to Siberia, if I am not mistaken, in 1835. The boat is lined inside with a green woollen cloth, and is surmounted by a canopy of wood, himg with white curtains. The chaii* of state, in the shape of a throne, is of red damask, and is set with the Emperor's portrait, crowned by his cypher. This incidental visit of the Grand Duke is remembered as a great epoch at Tumen . The principal inhabitants of the town es- teemed it an honoui' to be permitted to ferry their august visitor over the river, and the Prince, to mark his sense of the coiu^tesy shown him on that occasion, condescended to leave an autograph of his name on the edge of the boat, and ordered the names of ten of the merchants of Tumen to be added under his o^n. The loyal citizens, to preserve GO REVELATIONS tliese signatures, put tliem under a glass. The boat-house is kept locked up, and shown as a national edifice. Starting from Tumen, we arrived in due time at Tobolsk, the capital of Western Si- beria. We had been just a month on our journey, having left Kiov on the 11th of March, and arrived at Tobolsk on the 11th of April. We had tliroughout a very easy sledge journey, there being plenty of snow on the roads, though on approaching Tobolsk it commenced to thaw, and torrents of melted snow were rushing from the hills. Obviously the beams of the vernal sun began to manifest their genial influence. Having gone tln-ough all the forms at the police-office, in accordance with the usage on the arrival of passengers, we put up at a guest-house [goscinnica)^ which is an inn ex- clusively destined for the class of exiles to which we belonged, and contains several suites of rooms, in which they are lodged. Worn-out with a whole month's constant travelling, I was delighted to find myself in a comfortable room, where I no longer heard the tinlding of the post-bells, and was not OF SIBERIA. 61 pressed to travel on and on, but free to dis- pose of my time as I chose. In this delicious state of tranquil repose I almost forgot that I had still a weary journey before me — for I had not yet reached my destination. In the meantime, masses of snow began to melt ; waters to rush in fui'ious torrents along the roads ; and rivers to overflow. In short, everything seemed to prognosticate that all travelling for the present and for some time to come must cease, and the more so as there was no practicable road from Tobolsk to Berezov, except on the river, either through its waters, or over its bridge of ice. Hence I inferred I should most probably remain some time at Tobolsk. Very soon after my arrival I gradually began to get an insight into a life new to me. It was not long before I found myself in a circle of new associates, old and new ac- quaintances, some even of our own neigh- bourhood, who had been brought before me to Tobolsk. I there met Major Szi-eder, a native of Grand Poland, and companion-in- anns of Severin Krzyzanowski ; Antony Pawsza, of YoEiynia ; Constantino Wolicki ; .62 REVELATIONS Oniifry Pietraszkiewicz, of Wilria ; Ignatius Strumillo, of Volhyuia ; Stanislaus and Eaphael Xiersnowski, brothers, of the Palatine of IN'ovogrodek. Count Charles Marchocki had arrived only a few days pre- viously. Their company had the effect of at least alleviating, though not dispelling, oui' anxious longings after those at home, whom it was impossible our hearts should ever forget. Three days had been agreeably passed in thi s friendly circle, and we had commenced making arrangements for a longer sojourn at Tobolsk, when on the fourth day we were all three unexpectedly summoned to the Civil Governor's, who announced that we had rested long enough, and must prepare without any delay for our onward journey ; I was to proceed to Berezov, the farthest north, and my companions to Tarra, in the south. The destination of the latter was comparatively less imfavoiu*able than mine, Tarra being a district town of Siberia, and like Tobolsk, situated on the Irtish. ^N'otwithstanding all the natural advan- tages of the climate, and many other comforts OF SIBERIA. 63 Avhich Tarra seemed to afford, and wliich were hardly to be compared with those of Berezov — a town one thousand seven hun- di-ed versts distant fi*om Tobolsk, in the remote north — Miss Josepliine Ezonczewska, who hitherto was thecompanion of my journey, requested permission to exchange the place of her destination for mine, and accompany me to Berezov — a noble proof of her fiiend- ship, which I felt in the depths of my heart. I did my utmost, however, to dissuade her fi-om such sacrifice for me ; but she would not relinquish her determination. Permis- sion was not obtained from the authorities without great difficulty and hesitation, but at last it was granted. The 17th of April was fixed for our depar- tm'e; and, after taking leave of our compa- triots, we set out on om' journey, again in sledges, on the river Irtish, which was still all ice-bound. We saw the melted snow rushing in tor- rents fi'om the steep banks, and the adjacent hills, into the river, which overflowed to a greatextent, but its ice being thick and strong, and besides still adhering fast to the banks, 64 REVELATIONS had not yet sufficiently risen, as it otherwise would, to float high and free on the swollen waters. It was a complete inundation — a deluge ; and in many places our horses had to cross deep and extensive pools. Not seeing his way, our coachman several times ran the risk of drowning his horses in holes cut in the ice, which it is the custom to do in those parts in winter, for the purpose of fishing, or to water the cattle. Our danger and difficulties increased the further we proceeded. Often our horses and the sledges sank into such deep hollows, and into pits of melting snow, that it requii^ed a number of people to drag them out. For- tunately two Cossacks of Berezov had been sent with us as guides, and were furnished with a written order fr'om the Governor, authorizing them to ask for any number of hands in case of need ; accordingly we were accompanied from village to village by a convoy of several men on horseback, armed with shovels and poles, who rendered us good service. Notwithstanding the assistance we thus received, we did not on the fii'st day reach even so far as the next post-station, and OF SIBERIA. 65 were obliged to pass the night on the road. The following day at noon we succeeded in reaching a village called Bronikov, about thii'ty-six versts beyond Tobolsk. Tliis is the remotest station at which the road by land from Tobolsk to Berezov terminates; there being diu'ing the summer no road whatever in that northern direction, but persons who go thither are obliged to proceed by water. Bronikov is coloni^ied by Eussian settlers. Our guides, convinced of the utter imprac- ticability of proceeding any fiu'ther, as many other conveyances had been brought to a stand at this place, and were waiting the change of season, came to a halt, and sent a report to the Governor, acquainting him with our detention. Unpleasant as it was to remain, perhaps for the space of a whole month, in so desolate a place, consigned to a wretched hovel, mthout any society whatever, and even without the means of procui-ing the most indispensable necessaries of life, we were obliged to resign ourselves to om- fate. Work and reading are 66 REVELATIONS the usual resoiu'ces of females iu similar cases, but of these we had but a limited supply. The teuement where we were lodged belonged to the Secretary of the Post, and he had but temporarily conceded it to us, so that we could not employ ourselves in forming a household. Meanwhile, the Governor received the intelligence of our detention, and thought it better to countermand our joui'uey, and wait till a more advanced season should render the river navigable. The counter-order was on two accounts highly consolatory to me. Instead of being compelled, as I should have been, to spend my time in kksome solitude, imprisoned within the walls of a miserable hut, in a small and dii'ty village, it promised me the agreeable society of my compatriots ; and after the worry and fatigue I had suffered throughout my progress by land, and its pernicious effect on my health, the prospect of completing my long journey by the river could not but give me great pleasure, as I should no longer be exposed to the severe jolting of the road, and while secure of good rest at night, might sometimes walk on the OF SIBERIA. 67 deck during the day, working or reading as I pleased, and so I hoped in time to recruit my strength. We retraced om* steps to Tobolsk, not by oiu' previous route on the Irtish, the river being now impassable, but by an ordinary road used in summer. I need not say how delighted we were at finding oiu-selves again amidst our old friends, and how they also rejoiced to welcome us on our retui'n. 68 EE^TILATIOXS CHAPTEE IV. Sojourn at Tobolsk — Lower and Upper Town — Edifices — Interview with an exiled Colonel — "Walks on the Irtish — Tobola — Public garden — Yisit from the exile Advance of spring — Breaking of ice on the Irtish — Ai'gali deer. As we had to stay several weeks at Tobolsk, it was necessary to look for lodgings. Another of our countrywomen, an old friend and neighboui* of mine, who had arrived shortly before, found herself in the same situation, and we agreed to take a house, and live together. Spring now approached with rapid pace. Snow was disappearing from the streets, the fields, and all the environs. We lived in the lower part of the town, which was without OF SIBERIA. 69 any pavement ; but as the streets were laid with planks and large trunlvs of trees, we were able, on fine days, to take our walks in town without much inconvenience, and thus make acquaintance with the capital of Siberia. Tobolsk lies on the right bank of the Irtish. Most of its houses are built of wood, not painted outside, and only very rarely inside. They look dustj^ and mean, and the town has a sombre uninviting aspect. But a small number of the houses are of brick, and these chiefly belong to a more respectable class of merchants. There are eleven chui'ches, all brick structures. Among the principal buildings, the Go- vernor's Palace holds the fii'st place. It is two stories high ; another, and equally stately edifice, was built by Swedish prisoners, taken at the famous battle of Pultawa; a third, is the residence of the Archbishop of all Siberia. These three edifices are all situated on an eminence, and may be said to constitute, as it were, the basis of what is termed the "Higher Town." Below on a plain, or more properly a peninsula wliich is formed by a winding of 70 REVELATIONS the Irtish, lies the "Lower Town." The site being low, and not much above the level of the river, it is exceedingly damp. Both the towns, as well as all the enwons, are too level to allow of a single fine view ; and the total absence of buildings remarkable for grandeur, either in their dimensions or in architectural beauty, make all the streets look alike. It is not to Tobolsk that the sight-himters should go to gratify their curiosity. Only those who have long been resident in this place, and have become more familiar with the different localities, can point out any difference between one set of streets and another ; such distinctions totally escape the eye of a casual visitor. During one of my walks, being accompa- nied by some friends, I paid a visit to Colonel Severin Ki'zyzanowslvi. He was a poor in- valid; both his feet are paralyzed, and he never quits his chamber.* One of our com- * Colonel Krzyzanowski is one of the many victims of the reign of the Emperor Nicholas. He had been a most distinguished officer in the Polish army, and fought many battles under Napoleon. He was accused, with other Poles, of complicity in the celebrated Pestel con- OF SIBERIA. 71 pany, M, Onufiy Pietraszkiewicz, preceded us to apprise the Colonel of our approach ; and we waited in an outer room while his nurse, a German, prepared for our reception. In about a quarter of an hour the Colonel was ready to receive us, and being ushered in we found him sitting in a deep arm-chair, a la Voltaire^ propped up on both sides, his infirm debilitated body requiring those supj)orts. His long, thin hair was snow-white — bleached, as it appeared, by premature age, brought on by much suffering, and it fell down spiracy in Eussia, but the crime could not be substan- tiated against them, and they were all honourably acquitted by the High Court at Warsaw in 1828. Although a Pole, yet being born in the Ukraine, Colonel Krzyzanowslii was claimed by the Czar as a Eussian subject, and without any trial whatever, transported to Siberia. For nearly twenty years it was not known where he was, or even whether he was dead or alive ; and, but for our author's notice of him, his friends would not, in all likelihood, have heard anything of him to this day. Siberia is a vast prison, and though not walled up, there is no return or escape from its confines. The rest of the unfortunate man's life — his sufferings and his mournful end, as related by our author, will now become clear and intelligible to the readers. 72 REVELATIONS on his shoulders, reaching nearly to his elbows. His face was excessively pale, and looked as though it were swollen ; the lustre of his eyes was dimmed, and their old fire quenched. As he saw us enter his lips and eyes trembled convulsively, betraying a strong in- Avard emotion. We perceived that he tried to speak, and could not. He then by a movement of the hand made us a sign to approach his seat, to enable him to shake hands with. us. There were but two of us in his room — Miss Josephine and myself. It fortunately happened that atthat moment the Colonel's mind was perfectly lucid, which alas ! was not its ordinary condition ; and we could see that only the excess of emotion deprived his paralyzed tongue of the power of speech. At length he recovered his self- possession, and for some time conversed with us, though not without difficulty, yet with perfect presence of mind. Hearing that our destination was Berezov, a place known to him, having himself resided there fourteen months, he recommended ns, when we arrived, to take lodgings at his former landlady's, where he said we should OF SIBERIA. 73 be comfortable. He tried to re-assure us with respect to Berezov and the discomforts of that place, and perhaps thinking we should be frightened, lauded the single-heartedness and hospitality of its inhabitants. This conversation he maintained with a difficulty painful to witness. We were obliged to gather what he intended to convey, more from his gesticulations and the move- ment of his lips, than from the words he uttered. For some time we went on toler- ably well ; but at last the Colonel's faculties, exhausted by his efforts, began to flag. He stiU continued speaking, but we could not help observing that imagination carried him back to the shores of the Tagus, and the banks of the Seine, the stage of his past military ex- ploits. He then narrated that we could obtain at Berezov plenty of water-melons, grapes, oranges, and a variety of delicious fruits, which we knew were not to be found there, but were the produce of more genial climes. This conversation, from its character and the direction it had taken, afi'ected me pain- fully. I was at a loss how to abridge it, VOL. I. E 74 EEVELATIONS otherwise than by taking leave of our un- fortunate compatriot, who, on perceiYing our movement, grasped our hands, and continued uttering beseechingly with his palsied tongue, "Pray stay — still longer — longer." But apprehending lest the effect of our protracted interview should prove injurious to the Colonel's health, we left him, thinking we might yet see him again at some future period. On our way home, in order to disembarrass ourselves of the painfal impression produced on our mind, we proceeded in the direction of the Irtish. Arrived on its banks, we saw an immense extent of land, as far as our eyes could reach, imder water, presenting a magnificent spectacle. In gazing upon this expanse of smooth placid water, shining mirror-like before us, our sight seemed to lose itself in its immensity. At its farthest extremity we could likewise discern another distant plain : it was land, across which again another azure-like stream was running, at first so tiny, as to be almost imperceptible, but growing more distinct the nearer it came, gradually widening into something like a OF SIBERIA. 75 broad high-road, which, at last iiniting with the river, formed one vast sheet of water. The swollen tributary was the Tobola, coming from the far west, and emptying itself into the majestic Irtish. On our way home we passed by what is called here a public garden, and peeped into it. It was a small piece of ground, inter- sected with gravel walks, and containing only birches and a few yellow acacias. Here and there were placed benches to sit upon, and on one side a summer-house constructed of wood. Had the season been more favour- able, I should, perhaps, have seen the place to greater advantage ; but the trees were now bereft of foliage, and the branches so scanty that they could be counted ; besides, the ground was wet and miry, and alto- gether the garden presented a doleful appear- ance. On the following day, in the afternoon, being at home, we observed from our balcony a dorozka, with one horse, stop at our door. We were astonished when we saw the occu- pant of it descending. Coimt Marchocki, who was just then with us, from curiosity E 2 76 REVELATIONS also approached the window, and recognised Colonel Krzyzanowski, who in his state of infirmity could not get out of the vehicle, and was obliged to be carried by two men. It took some time to collect more hands to convey him to our apartment, which was the more difficult from its being on the second iloor. His debility was so excessive that he was carried like a child up stairs. We welcomed him with great concern and emotion ; and not having any arm-chair in our room, for the support of his feeble and paralyzed body, we made him sit on the sofa, and propped him up with cushions. Dui'ing this visit the Colonel spoke with greater facility than on the preceding day. His conversation was more animated, and he even spoke a great deal more, as if he were determined to make up for the constraint under which he had laboured on the occasion of our visit to him. To-day he would not have his will in the least cramped, nor his tongue silenced, when thoughts flashed like lightning through his brain. With inconceivable fire and rapidity, he discoursed on a variety of things and inci- OF SIBERIA. 77 dents, plunging by turns into the past and present, and nowhere resting long, as if fore- warned of his lucid moments being num- bered and but scantily granted to him. He seemed therefore the more eager to catch at each moment, as it flew rapidly by. Within half an hour, however, his ideas grew confused, and at last became quite imstrung. He still continued speaking with the same volu- bility as before, but alas ! there was no rea- son in his words. I did all I could to bring him back to his former train of associations, but in vain. His thoughts, having once lost theii' pathway, could by no means be brought into it again. His servant observing this melancholy state of his master's mind, approached, and signified that it was time to depart, but the Colonel pushed him back. He would not have his visit abridged. He remained several hours longer, sunk in the same distressing state, and without the least shadow of amend- ment. At last, at nightfall, he took leave of us. Winter seemed now to be departing, and the weather every day grew finer. Nature 78 REVELATIONS awoke from her lethargic sleep, breaking through the icy fetters in which winter had enthi^alled her. The sun shone with more warmth, and the birds carolled gaily in the trees. It was the 10th of May,* when news at last spread that the ice of the Irtish had broken and was floating down the river, which in a few days would be open for navi- gation. This was a warning to us to prepare for departure. Our hearts grieved as the old and well- known song recurred to our memory — the song which for one whole month was ringing incessantly in our ears, and still echoed the weary refrain^ " Onward — onward." To drive these melancholy anticipations from our mind, we once more repaired to the * The loth of May here, be it remembered, is the 22nd of that month, according to the Gregorian Calendar now in general use in Europe : the Eussians still computing the days of the month, and fixing all the festivals of their Church after the old Julian style. This must be allowed for thi'oughout our author's narrative, as that difference — which is twelve days between the two calendars — cannot be unimportant in forming a right estimate of the Siberian temperature at different seasons of the year. OF SIBERIA. 79 banJis of the Irtish, to witness its struggle with the parting ice, and almost lament its victory. The view had scarcely anything new in itself, recuiTing as it does every year, and yet it is ever magnificent. We foimd the ice abeady broken. It moved on the blue waves of the river in huge masses, slowly and almost solemnly, amidst thundering crashes from far and near. We saw the smaller craft of boats in great number, trying their adventurous coui-se near the shore, which was already clear of all ice-floes ; while the banks of the river were thronged with speculators, yoimg and old, men, women, and children, of all ranks and stations. This was the grandest feature of the spectacle — grand because all were alive to it. I witnessed, not without satisfaction, the temerity, the skill, and the courage with which the inhabitants ventured on an element so terrific and perilous — curbed, but not yet conquered, and which still echoed its thun- dering poean of war and defiance. I cannot exactly state the reason, but the spectacle of a man who is resolutely braving danger, with nothing to rely upon but his 80 REVELATIONS own strength, has always had more chai-m for me, and excited more veneration for the grandeur of his character, than all his indus- trial conquests. This, perhaps, is the foible of our sex. On our return home, I saw a most beauti- ful animal, called a moral. I mean no equivoque, for that was its real name. It is, I am told, a native of the Sayan and Altai mountains.* I never saw an animal equal it in elegance of shape. It is very much like a deer, or, more properly, like an antelope. It is tall in stature, slender, and exceedingly graceful in its proportions, with thin feet and short tail. It bears its neck high, and the hair is thin and smooth, and of a brown colour. I was informed that it usually had high horns branching out like the antlers of a stag ; but at this season the animal was without any, and on the spot where they grow there was * The moral is probably the argali, or capra ammon, whose horns, as mentioned by Mr. Cottrell, are im- mensely large, very spiral, and strong. The moral is very shy, and lives in the most inaccessible spots, like the chamois. OF SIBERIA. 81 oiily a soft protuberant excrescence, covered with delicate haii'-like moss. This horny protuberance grew so rapidly, that, in the course of a few weeks, the animal's head was crowned with noble antlers. The moral I have described was kept in the stables of Prince Gortchakoff, Governor -General of West Siberia. It was very tame, and walked freely about the town. These animals are generally very easily tamed ; and many people who take a par- ticular liking to them, keep a number of them as domestic cattle. 82 REVELATIONS CHAPTEE V. Preparations for departure — Spring — The Upper Town — Ceyzik's house — Prince Gortchakoff — His removal to Omsk — Roman Catholic missions — A real solitude — Embarkation — Cabin — Farewells. It was on the 12th of May that we re- ceived an official notice from the Governor- General to prepare for departure to Berezov. About this town, though a capital of exten- sive district, and one next to Tobolsk in importance, so little was known here, that everybody with whom we spoke gave us a different account of it. In this one particular, however, all seemed to agree, that we could not expect to meet there any of our usual comforts. The first object, therefore, for our OP SIBERIA. 83 consideration was to purchase a stock of commodities for om- futm^e household, as furniture and provisions, such as we thought would keep on oiu' voyage. The whole ot my time was now taken up with making piu'chases, packing and stowing the different articles, in which business I had every possible assistance from my countrymen, to whose kindness I was indeed much indebted. The voyage by water would, I thought, after all, be more agreeable than travelling by land, and it mattered little how bulky or heavy were my purchases. The only draw- back was, that I was obliged to limit my wishes from the insufficiency of my means. The privation, which, according to all accoimts, I had most to apprehend in my future household, and most wished to avoid, was the supplies of the dairy ; for I was assui-ed that there were no more than two cows in the whole territory of Berezov. As for fruit, salads, and other vegetables, I was pretty sure that from the nature of the climate, they were quite out of the question, and could not at all enter on my list; but milk, cream, and butter — how could I be without 84 REVELATIONS them ? From Tobolsk I could only transport melted butter ; and as for tea, which is the sole luxury Imow^i to the Siberians, and next to water is considered by them one of the principal necessaries of life — the very idea of such a beverage, as di-unk by them, frightened me. I well knew that I should have to encounter it at every step, as it is deemed an indispensable item of hospitality ; and I could never drink tea without cream. Such are the petty miseries of our life. They are too insignificant to be even per- ceptible amidst strong emotions ; but in the absence of such emotions, and under an utter apathy of life, even they are apt, contemptible though they be, to assume in our fancy the shape of grave and intolerable evils. On the 15th of May, spring gladdened us with her first cheerful vernal smile. Warm and genial was her breath, moving the bii'ch trees to spread out their long tresses, and deck themselves with foliage, struggling as it yet was beneath the brown tints of winter. Grass began to sprout, and vernal flowers were peeping timidly forth, and upraising their shy, modest, variously-coloured heads to OF SIBERLi. 85 the sun, which tenderly kissed their brows with his beams, and by his penetrating warmth everywhere imparted new life. Gladdened by the changed face of nature, we resolved to turn the last days of our sojourn at Tobolsk to as great an advantage as possible, and to see more of the town and of its vicinity. Oiu" fii'st visit was to the Upper Town, which, as I have before remarked, occupies an elevated site, and in so far is drier and more salubrious than the Lower Town, while the view from it over the latter is not alto- gether without interest. The communica- tion between the two cannot be said to be easy, at least it is not such as might be desired ; the new portion, which is on the hill, being separated from the old one below, by a perpendicular high cliff and a deep ditch. There are only two ways, indeed, by which the Upper Town is accessible ; one to passengers on foot, by a flight of many hundred steps leading straight up the hill, which, though the shortest way, is very irk- some for ascent ; and the other for car- riages, by a circuitous and broad road in a ravine, dug for that purpose round the 86 REVELATIONS hill, and paved with wood. Evidently, everything that the art of engineering could suggest has been employed to facilitate the communication ; but, in spite of all digging, paving, and bringing, m order to diminish the ascent, the acclivity is too gi-eat not to be most severely felt. One cannot ascend the steps without losing one's breath, and without being obliged repeatedly to stop for rest. On reaching the top of the hill, an exten- sive plateau presents itself. It is adorned with a monument raised recently, in the reign of the present Emperor, to the memory of Yermak. The cost of the erection was paid from subscriptions collected for the purpose among the natives of Siberia. The appearance of the Upper Town is neat ; the streets are broad ; the air, dry, bracing, and conducive to health. The Government House, the residence of the Archbishop (Archirey), the Greek Church, the barracks, and the military hospitals, con- stitute the principal buildings. The rest of the houses are nearly all constructed of wood. OF SIBERIA. 87 Among these, a small but neat cottage had, during my visit, particularly struck me by its European aspect. It was surrounded by a plantation of birch trees, which had a picturesque effect. I inquired whose house it was, and received for answer, that the proprietor's name was Ceyzik, who formerly resided in Poland, and was celebrated for his most exquisite paintings on china and pottery. He had been, as we were told, for upwards of tAVenty years in Siberia, and though aged, he still looked hale and strong. On hearing this, we could not help wishing to see him. The snug, comfortable cottage he possessed was his own property, as well as a small garden attached to it. This was very well kept, and was full of various shrubs, with beds for vegetables and flowers, traversed by carefully- raked paths, and even containing some con- servatories, reminding us more of our own country, than of the wilderness of Siberia. The taste for embellishing human habitations, by subjecting nature to the rules of art, has not yet penetrated to this region. And why so? For no other reason that I can imagine, than 88 REVELATIONS because all attempts at refinement would appear dwarfish and out of place in the pre- sence of the grandeur and variety of nature, spread out before the threshold of the hum- blest dwelling ; and I might also say because the necessity for any such artificial improve- ments has not yet made itself apparent among these wild people. Ceyzik's pottery is much prized, and there was a great demand for it thi'oughout Siberia. During the visit of the heir apparent of the Eussian crown, the citizens of Tobolsk order- ed at Ceyzik's manufactory a china tray, which was presented to their illustrious guest as a fine specimen of Siberian manu- factures, and was graciously received by him. In general, Ceyzik has an excellent market for his wares, and orders are often sent to him from distant parts of Siberia for vases, basins, tureens, bowls, and suchlike, both ornamental and useful crockery. All these articles are recommended for the elegance of their workmanship and their beauty of design, and are indeed entitled to admiration. During the week, a gi-eat bustle prevailed at Tobolsk. The mercantile portion of the OF SIBERIA, 89 citizens were busied in freighting boats and vessels destined for the Oby Sea, whence, after discharging their cargoes, they bring back loads of fish and fui\ Many of the in- habitants, too, were more or less engaged in preparing for the departm-e of the Governor- General, Prince Gortchakofi", who was on the point of leaving Tobolsk for Omsk.* For some reason or other, difficult to explain, he was ordered to transfer his residence, with *Th.e object of this removal of the capital of "Western Siberia southward to Omsk, in the Kirghies Steppes, is to establish a road in a direct line to Thibet, and when Russia shall have acquired a sufficiently firm footing in it, to obtain, across that country, a transit for her mer- chandise to India, if not also for the march of her Kirghies, Tartar, and other Siberian hordes, for the accomplishment of her long-cherished designs on the British possessions in Asia. The distance from Omsk to the frontier of Thibet, is but twelve hundi-ed versts ; and, on the way through the Steppes, most of the natives are on friendly terms with the Russians. At Omsk, a school is established in which a number of young men are instructed in the Mongolish Arabic, and Persian languages, and destined to perform the duties of diplomatic agents in Asiatic countries. The Univer- sity at Kazan is another institution to qualify men far such missions, in furtherance of the Muscovite policy. 90 REVELATIONS the whole of his staff, to the latter town, wliich is the capital of the district of that name, belonging in part to the Government of Tobolsk, and in part to that of Tomsk. The town of Omsk, like Tobolsk, lies on the Irtish, in a large Steppe, on the very boundary of the great Kirghies Steppes. The inhabitants of Tobolsk were grieved at parting with theii" beloved Governor, whose humane conduct had gained him all hearts. They perfectly knew how much they were losing by his departure. The different func- tionaries connected with his staff and their families, in particular, were sony to relinquish their houses, where they had long been established, as well as the society and com- forts to which they were accustomed. Turn which way you might, this was perceptible. Here a spacious house, which a few days before, we saw furnished and filled with com- pany, stood desolate and dismantled, with but naked walls, doors and windows open, all the furniture in disorder, and the servants wait- ing the arrivals of carts which were to carry them to the river side. In some places friends were bidding each other adieu ; in others, OF SIBERIA. 91 they held a last mournful meeting at the social board. At the river side all was in activity, and an immense crowd had assembled. It seemed as if the whole population of Tobolsk was at that moment congregated together. Some of the vessels were loaded with furni- ture, and were destined for Omsk ; others, which were to sail in an opposite dii-ection, received on board cargoes of flour and sundry victuals and merchandize for the northern districts of the Government of Tobolsk. Tobolsk has one Protestant church, but has not any Eoman Catholic place of worship. Subscriptions were, indeed, some years ago, collected for the erection of a Eoman Catholic chui'ch, but, in spite of the zealous efforts and contributions made by the wealthier portion of the Catholic inhabitants, they were found to be quite inadequate for carrying out that purpose. In the meanwhile, the Dominicans, who are established at Tomsk, occasionally visit Tobolsk to perform divine service for the Eoman Catholic residents. At Tomsk, a distance of one thousand four hundred and thirty versts fi'om Tobolsk, 92 REVELATIONS there is a Eoman Catholic chui'ch, and this is the only one in the whole of Western Siberia. The priests are sent thither commonly from the Polish provinces; and their duty is to make annually a round of visits to all the principal places situated within that immense diocese, extending fi'om the Ural Mountains to the river Yenisei in the east, and fi'om the Steppes of the Kirghies to the Frozen Sea in the north. A whole year is hardly sufficient for traversing such an immense extent of territory. Indeed, no one who has not spent some time in Siberia, or has not in some degree identified himself with the manner of life of the inhabitants of that country, can possibly have any conception of its vast extent. Europe would appear narrow to the natives of the Siberian wilderness. In the principal towns where the Catholics may be numerous, the priest is allowed to stay a few days longer ; and then the Catholics of all the surrounding places, being informed by circular of his arrival, hasten for the perfor- mance of the rites of their religion, such as baptisms of children, matrimonial vows and confessions. After fulfilling his duty at one OF SIBERIA. 93 point, the priest, without a moment's delay, resumes his journey, visiting in that manner all the other places, distant at hundreds and often a thousand versts from each other. The town of Tobolsk is the point at which the visitation of the clergy of Tomsk termi- nates. The priest invariably amves there at the close of the winter, and does not, after his long pilgrimage, proceed any farther northwards, but shortly before Easter usually returns to Tomsk, where he waits till the snow has melted, and the season of navigation recommenced, and then again starts on his circuit. The 16th of May had been fixed for our departure for Berezov, but the merchant Brahin's vessel, which was to convey us thither, chanced not to be yet ready, or more properly speaking, what, indeed, was the real truth of the matter — it was not suffi- ciently laden, a circumstance for which we were by no means sony. The longer we remained at Tobolsk, the better it was for us ; every moment of our prolonged stay ap- peared to us a gain from those days of soli- 94 REVELATIONS tude and pining to wliich we should be doomed in future. I had never hitherto considered solitude a grievance ; on the contrary, I felt at all times reconciled to it — nay, foimd a degree of pleasure in it. Though I am fond of society, I somehow could easily replace the want of it, and never felt tired when alone. But the solitude which awaited me at Berezov was something appalling, hanging like a mass of deep darkness over my imagination, through which I could see only horror and despair. Had it been guarded by the thick- ness of a wall, or by locks and bars, it would have caused us little concern ; but it was, in our conception, a total interruption of all relations with the past, and a seclusion from all mankind. At last the moment of departure arrived. On the 17th of May we Avere informed by the authorities that the vessel was to sail within three hours, and that we must imme- diately embark. Our things had already been carried on board — thanks to the solici- tude of our friends, who anticipated our wishes and diminished our troubles. Woman OF SIBERIA. 95 at all stages of her life, and in all circum- stances, requires protection, and feels grate- ful for it ; and situated as we were, we felt the more a sincere thankfulness for the kind attention we experienced. Taldng leave of all with whom we were acquainted, and ac- companied by a small escort of fiiends, we wended our Avay sorrowfally to the river. The vessel was moored some distance from the shore, in the deepest part of the stream, and we were obliged to take a boat. Several of our company there bade us farewell ; but others, as Charles Marchocki, Constantino Wolicki, and two brothers, the Kiersnowskis, still remained with us, and accompanied us to the vessel. The little bark was bound to the Oby Sea, whence it was to fetch back a cargo of fish. It was one of the largest among those which annually go to the Frozen Sea for that pui'pose, and was of ten thousand to eleven thousand puds.* We were shown to a cabin, the only one in the vessel ; it was narrow and dark, and was packed up with a quantity of fur * The Russian pud is thirty-six pounds English. 96 REVELATIONS and wodka (whisky), wliich rendered it any- thing but odorous. However, we had many reasons for valuing it, as it afforded us a con- venient retreat, and we could claim it as a corner of our own. It at least separated us from a motley crowd of passengers, of whom we knew nothing, and whom we could not possibly make confidants of our thoughts, feelings, or actions. Before the signal for departure was given, our kind compatriots were busily engaged in stowing, within the narrow confines of our tem- porary abode, all our luggage, and arrang- ing, as comfortable as could be, our small household. Meanwhile, we enjoyed the sorrowful sweetness of confidential discoui'se, perhaps never to be renewed, and a last ex- change of thoughts and sympatliies, which was to suffice us for years of long seclusion. Several hours still elapsed ere all the sailors could be assembled. They were dis- persed on shore, some bidding farewell to theii' families, others transacting business, and some getting tipsy in the company of their friends. But we were not impatient to sail ; we ourselves were beguiling the few OF SIBERIA. 97 moments that remained to us in a friendly circle. At last, to our great distress, the signal gun was fired thrice. This admitted of no further delay. The anchor was weighed. The ship moved northward, and the boat carried our friends back to the shore. As long as we could see each other, our white hand- kerchiefs waved in the air, wafting our last adieus. God alone could tell whether those sweet accents of my native language were not the last that I should ever hear. VOL. I. 98 REVELATIONS CHAPTER VI. Journey to Berezov — Mournful train of thoughts — Kutchuni Khan and Termak — Steward — Passengers — Samovar — Boating — Perilous adventure — Gale of wind — Demiansk — Increase of cold — Expanse of the desert — Grandeur of primitive nature. It was ten o'clock at night. The green and fresh foliage of birches, jnst then break- ing from their buds, was blended with the darkness of the grey twilight. The splash- ing of the oars, and, at times, the voices of the mariners, interrupted the deep silence of the night. The hills along the banks of the Irtish were disappearitig, one after another, from our sight. Absorbed in my thoughts, I experienced an agony of spmt, and felt OF SIBERIA. 99 very ill. At each movement of the oar, I was carried farther and farther from my home and my family, into a region desolate and wdld. We stood, Josephine and myself, silent on the deck ; our eyes involuntarily turning back, as though we were still chasing after the past. Each was following her own train of thoughts. All around us was night, silence, and wil- derness. Darkness was gradually growing deeper, and more impenetrable. Still, we exj^erienced no wish to retii-e, or to separate oui'selves from the thoughts which engrossed us. At length, the trees and other objects lost their visible shapes ; and all around was obscurity. In our passage oriward, how- ever, we occasionally perceived twinkling lights along the shore, and, in some places, minarets dimly looming in the dark. These were Tartar villages, and faintly as they ap- peared, they happily brought me some relief, exciting a different train of associations, and leading my memory to the times of Kutchum Khan and Yermak.* * Kutclium Khan and Yermak are historical charac- ters of this region — one being the defender, the other the F 2 100 REVELATIONS Both these men were valiant in the field^ both conquerors. They both fought coui'age- ously, but not with equal success. The former being vanquished and banished fi*om his dominions, became, in his advanced age, an exile ; bereft of his country, his family, his riches, and his sight, he died an un- known death, leaving nothing for posterity but a bright record of the greatness of his soul in adversity. The latter, after a career of wild adventures and bold exploits, being taken by surprise, by those whom he had vanquished, perished on the invader of Siberia. Kutchum Khan was a lineal descendant of the great Ghenghis Khan, and in the six- teenth century, the most powerful chief of all the inde- pendent tribes in "Western Siberia. A fort in the vici- nity of Tobolsk, of which some ruins still remain, was his usual place of residence. In the year 1578, that portion of Siberia was invaded by a Cossack of the Don, Timofief Yermak, a freebooter, who, on that account, incurred the ire of the Grand-Duke of Muscovy. Com- pelled with his followers to seek refuge in Siberia, he defeated the Khan, and extended his conquests ; but, being in turn defeated, he sued pardon of his former enemy the Czar, and to obtain protection subjected to him. nominally, Siberia, a country which at that period was so little known, that he was considered its discoverer. OF SIBERIA. 101 banks of the Irtish, without the least sign of a tomb to mark the spot where he fell. The mortal remains of both these worthies of yore have, perhaps, found a common grave in the waters of this great river ; yet, how different are the results produced by the achievements of one and the other. The dominions of Kutchum Khan were doomed to bend under the yoke imposed on them by the victor ; his princely family was carried off captive to a foreign land ; while Yermak proceeded from victory to victory, from con- quest to conquest, and subjected so many nations differing in their language, manners, and religions, to one and the same sceptre and the same laws. Thus far in the night I protracted my me- ditation, until, benumbed with cold and tired of the melancholy darkness around, we de- scended to the cabin. But the extraordinary novelty of my situation, the reminiscences of the past, and the dim vista of the future, blending together, scared sleep from my eyehds. I saw the day dawn without once closing my eyes. 102 EEVELATIONS No sooner did the rays of the morning begin famtly to illumine our cabin through its narrow window, than I arranged my toilette and hurried to the deck, anxious to see the country and to learn where we were. The night had seemed long, ha\nLng been sleepless, and the cuiTent of the swollen river appearing not to have suffered any interruption in carrying us onwards, I imagined that we were at an immense dis- tance from Tobolsk ; but, to my astonish- ment, I was informed that we were scarcely twenty versts from the place of our embarka- tion. The surrounding country, as far as could be seen, was on all sides monotonous, uninhabited, and a complete wilderness. Not seeing any inducement to remain any longer, I retu-ed to the cabin. The lower part of tliis little retreat was below the level of the water, but this did not apply to the upper part, and a small oblong pane of glass fixed in the side, just beneath the low ceiling, admitted as little light as could be. However, as my berth happened to be uppermost, just at that small opening I could sit and read at the dim light it OF SIBERIA. 103 admitted. Thus the berth did a double service for me ; it served me for a sofa during the day, and for a couch at night. In the course of two or thi'ee hours we arrived off Bronikov, the very village where, a few weeks previously, the snow had pre- vented us from travelling by land. As we proceeded farther, the whole extent of land appeared a desert ; only at long intervals some solitary small settlements were observable, with patches of tilled ground ; but even such vestiges of cultivation were few and far between. But I should now say something of the other persons on board our vessel. Apart from the steward (Prikazbschik), who had the command of the sailors composing its crew, oui* company consisted of two mer- chants retui'uing from Tobolsk to Berezov ; and Mrs. Jaszczenko and her daughter, both going on a visit to her son, who was school- master at the latter town. These passengers were left on board the vessel to manage for themselves as well as they could. They accordingly chose their places amidst the bags of flour destined partly for Berezov, and partly for Obdorsk. 104 REVELATIONS The whole of the company, as may easily be imagined, was huddled up pell-mell amongst these sacks : the passengers used them as they liked ; and were, by turns, sitting, sleeping, and eating on them. In the middle, some space was left vacant, which served as a common room. From it one flight of steps led to the deck, and another to the door opening on the water, which, being the only passage through which light could be admitted into the interior, was on that account kept constantly ajar. The 19th of May will for ever remain en- graven on the tablet of my memory, as on that day my Ufe was within a hair's breadth of being cut off. At day-break, when the rays of the sun began to pierce our cabin through the small aperture called a window, I got up from my bed, intending to enjoy the fresh air of the morning. Josepliine and the other passengers were still asleep, and only a few sailors were on the deck, watching the progress of the vessel. The two mer- chants of Berezov were below, making pre- parations for their brealtfast, and busily employed at their samovar. OF SIBERIA. 105 Thi-ough the open door, I could see the moiTiing was most beautiful. The sun was rising in all his brilliance, bathing his orb in the miiTor-like waters of the Irtish ; and with his first rays magnificently gilding all the summit of the forests, which extended along the banks ; while the interior of our vessel was filled with a strong stench from skins, whisky, tar, and fish, and was so into- lerable and nauseous, that I felt quite over- come by the different effluvia. To escape them I went on deck ; but even there the smell of tobacco, with the suffocating miasma arising from below, totally desti'oyed the re- freshing quality of the air. At this moment, a boat, such as is commonly attached by a rope to larger vessels, caught my eye, and, tempted to enjoy the morning air in all its freshness, after a short moment of hesitation, I jumped into it, and was delighted at being enabled to breathe freely. I remained there sitting quietly for some time, not the slightest idea of danger occui'- ring to my mind, until I perceived that the boat was at some distance ft'om the vessel, and was gradually drifting away. As it was F 3 106 REVELATIONS tied with a rope, it could not be loosened at once, and in so far I thought I was safe. Still, seeing it in a moment drift rapidly to a considerable distance, a nervous teiTor came over me. It appeared as if really I was completely losing hold of the vessel, and was abandoned to the capricious waves. At one moment, however, the boat ap- proached so near, that I thought I had a chance of escape. Seizing a rope, I attempted by a leap to gain a projecting part of the side of the vessel ; but in leaping, I unluckily foiled to reach it, so as to be able to preserve the balance, and by the violent movement I made, the boat being pushed away from be- neath me to a distance of several steps, I was left with the whole weight of my body hang- ing over the water, having for my safeguard nothing but the rope, which I held fast with all my strength. Vessels on the Irtish have a quantity of ropes suspended aU round ; they serve both as a convenience for people descending and coming up fi'om the boats, and also, in case of anybody falling overboard, of rescuing them from drowning. At first I endea- OP SIBERIA. 107 voiirecl to extricate myself from my perilous situation by my own efforts, but seeing no chance of success, I began to cry for help. But nobody came to my rescue. My screams could scarcely be heard on deck, amidst the continual splashing of the oars ; wliile inside, with the exception of the merchants at their tea, all were asleep. From holding the rope so long, my hands were benumbed, my strength began to fail me, and I feared every moment that I should sink to the bottom of the river. In this dreadful suspense I was held for about a quarter of an hour, without any help coming. One of the two merchants, Kore- panow, had indeed heard, as he afterwards stated, some screams, but he had taken them for the cries of the rowers, such as were con- stantly heard on deck, and therefore paid no heed to them, until they struck him as a pro- longed and monotonous wailing, coming from one particular spot, which induced him to look out of the door, and he then perceived my perilous situation. The son of this merchant, a youth of twenty, without a moment's hesitation, leapt into the 108 REVELATIONS boat, which was at some distance, and shoved it close to the vessel. Taking me then by my arm, he advised me to let go the rope, and fear nothing. However, exhausted, and almost at the last gasp, I feared to relinquish the rope, my last protection, seeing the water yawn beneath me, as I had even doubts lest the young man in such a difficult posi- tion would be able to sustain my weight without losing his balance, especially as he had to stretch across. But my situation was critical, and there was no alternative. With a desperate resolution, I gave up the rope, and he dropped me into the boat, which he had drawn as closely under the vessel as circumstances permitted. Here I stood up ; but from the suspension I had undergone, my feet, my hands, and the whole of my body quivered like one in an ague fit. Josephine started fi'om her slumber at the exclamations on deck from many voices : " The Polish lady is drowned ! " In her fright she rushed out of the cabin half- dressed, fancying me abeady dead. Nobody, however, was more extravagantly rejoiced at my recovery, and nobody lifted OF SIBERIA. 109 up his hands so high to Heaven, in fervent thanksgiving, as the Cossack who escorted us, and who was also aroused from his sleep hy the general uproar and alarm. This sym- pathy shown by the honest Cossack on my behalf moved me deeply ; and I failed not to express to him my sincere thanks. In ex- planation, however, he replied with as great a naivete as could be, but which went far to disenchant me : " Your safety, lady, con- concems me veiy nearly, as, had not God mercifully averted this misfortune, the consequences would have been most fatal to myself." The weather next day was very bad and stormy. It was impossible to remain on deck, owing to the excessive cold. The aspect of the country was uninviting and dreary ; no population, no trace of cultiva- tion ; lower grounds densely overgrown with willows, and the uplands crowned with cedar, larch, and fir. At night the wind increased to a perfect hui-ricane. The vessel was an- chored, and remained so during the ensuing day. It is a tiresome thing to be moored. The 110 REVELATIONS play of the billows may for some time engage our attention; but it soon loses all interest by its monotonous uniformity. We had no other means of dispelling oui* ennui than by shutting ourselves in oui* cabin, and passing away the heavy hours in reading. For- tunately I had a few books with me. Towards evening, the storm seemed to abate; the anchor was weighed and we went on. But we had hardly reached the middle of the river, when, owing to the great swell, the vessel began to be tossed to such a degree, that we could not stand on our feet. Some of the passengers being unaccustomed to the motion, experienced sea-sickness. Mrs. Jaszc- zenko felt qualmish, her daughter was ill, Josephine suffered from head-ache ; and at last even I felt faint. "Witnessing the suffer- ings of others, and being at a loss how to prevent them, I now began to think of my- self. I went on deck, where fresh air and cold soon dispelled my illness, and I have ever since, during the strongest gales, remained proof against such qualms. Again we were obliged to cast anchor, and wait till the storm ceased. It raged violently for two days. OF SIBEEIA. Ill Poor Mrs. Jaszozenko could not be regarded without pity. During the storms on our voyage, she lay whole days with her face on the ground, almost in a state of insensibility, and as often as she raised up her head, she fainted. On the other hand, the men once used to voyages suffered nothing ; they quietly took their tea, yawned, smoked, or slept. On the second day, towards evening, the wind again abated, and though the billows on the river were still running high, we were not in the least sorry to resume our voyage. The river Irtish is really magnificent. When at its high tide in spring, it is several versts broad ; the current is extremely rapid, and the river is hemmed in on both sides by elevated hilly banks, covered with primseval forests, for the most part cedar. At the foot of the hills, in the deep glens, and on the islands, grow willows in thick impenetrable masses. The water of the river is very muddy, and on this account cannot be used either for drinking or cooking, without under- going some process of purification. We had 112 REVELATIONS happily provided ourselves with a filtering machine for our own use ; but for the accom- modation of the rest of the passengers casks were kept filled with water, and the water only used after the sediment with which it was impregnated had settled. The weather continued bad. AH the vernal and pleasant smiles with which the returning season had cheered us up at Tobolsk, had altogether vanished, and a storm compelled us again to cast anchor. Only with great difiiculty could we on the fifth day of our voyage reach Demiansk, one of the villages en route from Tobolsk to Berezov, consisting of about sixty houses. The distance of this village from Tobolsk is stated at two hundred versts; but in my opinion it is rather a guess than certainty, as there exists not a trace of any road by land, nor are there any verst stones. Between Tobolsk and Demiansk we could still distinguish some vestiges of agriculture, but beyond that village northward through the whole extent of country, not a speck of tillage was seen. During our onward move- ment, although we were at the close of the OF SIBERIA. 113 month of May, all the verdure with which we had observed the woods in the vicinity of Tobolsk, seemed, the further we proceeded, to be diminishing, and gradually disappeared. Willows, which commonly grow densely by each other, and are covered with rich foliage, stood erect mth leafless branches, taU, thin, and grey, presenting the aspect of extensive woods of Italian poplars, when winter has stripped them of their leaves. Cedars, firs, and larches, with their perennial green branches, were the only trees that covered the nakedness of the vast forests. On the other hand, the farther we proceed northwards, the hours of the night rapidly decreased ; so much so that when we were a short distance fi'om Demiansk, we had hardly any night, and the dawn of day followed closely on twilight. The weather continued excessively cold, but the atmosphere upon the whole was calm, until we arrived off Samarov. That village is considered the principal station between Tobolsk and Berezov, and is an important point for commerce, being situated on the confluence of two such great rivers as the 114 REVELATIONS Irtish and the Oby. It is inhabited chiefly by Eussians, carrying on .trade. Samarov is considered by travellers as lying half-way between the above-named towns, and stands at the point which nnites the districts of Tobolsk and Berezov. We had been full eight days on onr voyage. Daring that interval, unmind- ful of my personal sorrows, my attention was engrossed with contemplating the splendid scenery before me. My eyes strayed in turn over the vast expanse of waters, and on the immense virgin forests extend- ing far behind and before me. Their limits the sight strove in vain to reach ; ima- gination alone can supply them, either by stopping, in its soaring flight, on the one side, at the North Pole, the region of eternal ice, and the dreary solitudes of sea monsters ; or on the other, at the rocky wall of the Uralian chain, celebrated far and wide in popular stories and traditions for supernatural agencies and wonders, mere creations of fancy, but which obtain implicit credence from the natives, and are perpetuated by them from generation to generation, as matters OF SIBEEIA. 115 of religion and sacred truth. In pursuing the train of my associations farther, I em- braced in them the whole extent of the land from the Oby to the Uralian Islands east- wards. I roamed through wastes of snow, ice, wildernesses, immense rivers, and forests with their lairs of wild and ferocious beasts. It seemed as though I were meeting knots of strangers dispersed here and there on that vast wilderness. Unused to the locality, they were straying amidst its solitudes in a forlorn condition, not unlike solitary groups of mourning orphans, and reduced to the sad necessity of fraternization with the animal tribe, of assimilating their habits to theirs, and even of adopting their manner of living, in order to protract their miserable exist- ence. Nature, in all her original gi-andeur and simplicity, such as she presents herself to our view, under her primitive features, with marks typical of those impressed by the hand of the Creator, and as yet untouched and undefiled by man — such Nature has some- thing wonderfully solemn in her aspect. The soul is absorbed in a religious trance, and 116 REVELATIONS gliding, as it were, on the intermediate chain by which the Creator is linked with creation, feels itself exalted by contemplating the wonderful works of the creation of God. The heart is then enabled to lift itself in adoration of the Almighty, while at the same time it feels humbled in the presence of such wonders, and of that power which had called them into existence. Yet this impression, for the moment ele- vating, at length gave way to melancholy reflections. "What is man?" I asked myself in bewilderment, environed as I was by the stupendous works of the Almighty. " What is his pitiable destiny in the unbroken chain of the creation ? " He is but an atom amidst the component parts of the universe, not unlike a single leaf of those thick and dark forests extending before my eyes, torn down by a whirlwind, and driven to and fro on the face of the earth. OF SIBERIA. 117 CHAPTEE VIL Confluence of the Irtish and the Oby — Lowland and upland plain — The Tartar and the Ostiak boundary — Storm — Wild Scenery — Stones of various colours in rivers — Kondisk Monastery — Soswa — Distant view of Berezov — Disembarkation — Aspect of the town. Having passed Samarov, we entered on the Oby, a magnificent sheet of waters in which the Irtish is engulfed. It does not, however, disappear immediately, but the two rivers, like a wedded couple, after they have united their existence and their estate, and assumed a com- mon name, preserve their individuality for some distance, flowing together in one cur- rent, and being easily distinguished by their 118 EE^rELATIONS difference of colour. The \Yatcrs of the Irtish, which are tui'bid and muddy, and on that account bear a brownish tinge, contrast strikingly with the clear, dark, and trans- parent waves of the majestic Oby. The latter river, thus swelled by the Irtish and other tributary rivers, and by innumer- able streams of Asiatic Russia and the eastern acclivity of the Uralian range, may be seen flowing below Samarov northwards in all its grandeur, traversing an extensive plain, and then branching into numberless channels, each constituting a great river. 'No mean knowledge is required for its navigation, to avoid being lost in its mazes, though all the currents point one way and tend to a com- mon outlet. The tract through which the Oby meanders with outstretched branches, at times extend- ing or narrowing its bed, is about fifty versts in breadth, and is broken by the river into innumerable little islands, overgrown with weeping willows. This extensive plain laved thus by the river, is again enclosed on both sides by high hilly banks, covered with forests of cedar, larch, and fir. From these OF SIBERIA. 119 elevated banks begin the liighlands, over- looking, at a great altitude, the winding course of the river. The cold was insupportable, and the wind, which blew from the north, brought occasional diifts of snow. At the same time trees without any foliage, and the earth without the least verdure, gave no indication that we were at the close of May, or that we had twelve days before seen the spring, and enjoyed its genial, balmy air. Indeed, another storm now burst forth, deepening the dismal aspect of the picture, and the wind became so boisterous that we were again obliged to lie at anchor. Not wishing to pass his time uselessly. Captain, accompanied by several men, barked in two boats for the adjacent shore, where they cut down a beautiful cedar, and brought it off as a mast. They were not long in effecting their object. The cedar being felled on the nearest point of the shore, was di-agged without any difficulty to the river, and then the current carried it without additional trouble alongside the vessel. The daughter of Mrs. Jaszczenko, a girl of '# 120 EEVELATIONS fourteen, went on shore at the same time for a pleasure trip, and on her return, not unlike the dove of Noah's ark, brought back an em- blem of hope. This was not an olive sprig, but a bunch of currants, and a few leaves of crimson peony. Here were indubitable signs of approaching spring. For my part, I greeted the cuiT^nt sprigs and the peony with as tender an affection as I would old acquaintances in a strange land. AU the way below Samarov, the country was a wild desert, presenting not a vestige of human habitation ; as though this wilderness was designed to constitute a line of demarc- ation between the settlements of the Tartar race, and those of the nomade Ostiaks. Farther north, a few yourtas, a settle- ments of Ostiaks were occasionally observ- able. Whenever we met them, our steward was wont to enter into communication with the inhabitants, going himself on shore, or sending out a boat for the purpose of pro- curing provisions. In this manner, we frequently succeeded in getting ducks, eggs, or fish ; though we were not always so fortunate. Our fare consisted of barley- OF SIBERIA. 121 gruel, or dumplings, made of flour, of whicli we had a good provision. The stock of bread and meat which we had with us became useless, for what we did not soon consume was spoiled. Loaves of bread turned mouldy; and of the whole only biscuits were eatable. The rest of the passengers, more experienced than ourselves, had no bread, only biscuits, and were better off. One day, on approaching an Ostiak colonj-^, we observed our steward maldng preparations for going on shore. I inquired the reason, and was informed that he was desirous of purchasing a cow, to be supplied with milk, during his stay on the wild shores of the Oby Sea. On hearing this, I conceived also a desire to possess a cow for my future housekeeping at Berezov. The steward most willingly undertook the commission ; and in a few hours, to my great satisfaction, a very beautiful dim cow was brought in a boat, with a supply of hay sufficient for several days. For a treat, tea was immediately made. We had no lack of milk and cream, which added greatly to our comforts ; and what was more, VOL. I. (J 122 REVELATIONS I had no longer a fear of getting consumptive without milk at Berezov, and this comfort, so important for me, I had procured at the expense of only twenty-five paper rubles. The morning of the 28th May dawned beautifully, but was followed by a violent storm. Not anticipating this sudden change, the vessel was in the middle of the river. An alarm was raised, and all was tm-moil on board. It was safest to steer for a shallow place and anchor. On one side the bank was high and the current deep, and the gale just carried the vessel towards it ; while it drove it from the other, where the river was less rapid and not so deep, and which seemed the more eligible refuge. The vessel was quite at the mercy of the hurricane. The most experienced men were called to the helm, and all hands to the oars. It was feared that the rudder would break, a circumstance which might have led to a serious catastrophe. Strong poles, and the largest oars, purposely kept for such casualties, were brought forward to strengthen it, and by such efforts at last we succeeded m reaching a bay sheltered OF SIBERIA. 123 from the force of the hurricane by a neigh- bouring forest, where we cast anchor. We were detained a whole day. The cold was piercing, and the snow fell fast amidst violent gusts of wind. At the dawn of the following day, the gale had lulled and we immediately started on oiu' farther voyage. In this part of the world it is only on the shores of the rivers that we find human habitations, for the inland coimtry is entirely uninliabited. But even here the landscape has the appearance of a perfect desert. In our progress we observed but a few solitary yourtas of the Ostiak, and these at a distance of a great many versts from each other. From oui" first entrance on the Oby, the character of the whole country continued unaltered. It was invariably the same expanse of waters, the same kind of forests, with this sole difference, that at every verst onward the country became more dreary and more solitary. Huge masses of rock lay along the shore, and some protruded their rugged, monstrous shapes from beneath the water, while their fantastic forms and gigantic dimensions were perfectly in unison G 2 124 EEVELATIONS with the wild grandeur of the suiTOimdiiig scenery. No small degree of skill and caution was required on the part of the crew, while we continued our voyage, as the vessel had fre- quently hidden rocks to pass, on which, with less caution, she might have gone to pieces. The least jerk, therefore, used to apprise us of danger, and caused perturbation and dismay. On the shore! could observe abundance of small stones, diversified in shape and colour, washed by the billows, and shining in the sand. Not understanding mineralogy I could not determine what they were ; and was sorry for it. Some were most beautiful, both transparent and opaque ; some all green, others smooth like marble, with veins of blue, yellow, and other colours running through them; and many, and to my liking the most curious, were those wliich had the appearance of being strewn over with gold and silver sand. Some parts of the shore were mere densely covered with them than others, and the stones wanted only polish to be exqui- sitely ornamental. OF SIBERIA. 125 We arrived at last off Kondinsk, a village of about twenty huts, inhabited solely by Russian settlers. This place is insignificant, and remarkable only for its Russo-Greek Monasteiy, transferred hither from Berezov on the destruction of that town by fire in 1798. I had no inducement, had there even been an opportunity, to examine the locality more accurately, the weather being exceedingly unfavoui-able, raw, cold, and stormy ; and both myself and Josephine were indisposed. She caught cold in her face, and I was aftlicted with erysipelas. "We could not, without the danger of aggravating our sufferings, expose ourselves to cold and a bleak wind — we therefore kept to our cabins. I was by no means sony that our prolonged voyages, at so inclement a season, when the air could neither be warmed, dried, nor puri- fied, was soon to terminate. Every discom- fort diu-ing the journey is felt the more keenly when persons suffer from illness. At last we left the Oby and entered on the Soswa, one of the minor tributaries, though still large enough in its volume of water to 126 REVELATIONS surpass the largest rivers of the European continent. It rises in the Uralian mountains, and after absorbing in its course a number of smaller streams and rivers, falls into the Oby at no great distance from Berezov. No sooner had we entered on the Soswa, than all eyes tui-ned towards the north ; and it was not long before a shout of joy was raised, ''Berezov ! Berezov !'' We had been a fortnight on our voyage. In such cases, the sight of the country to which one is proceeding forms usually an event of no small importance ; and more especially on a voyage which, pleasing as it might in other respects be, caimot after all but prove excessively irksome by its uniform- ity and sameness. An incident like the present, therefore, could not have been felt by us otherwise than as an interruption as gratifying as it was desu'able. When the joyful exclamation of " Berezov !" was raised, no ordinary excitement prevailed on board. All rushed on deck to see it, if possible, with their own eyes, as though they still were in doubt and could not trust to the testimony of others. I myself left my cabin and shared OF SIBERIA. 127 in the general impulse, eager to get a distant look of the place destined for my future abode. Cui'iosity being at length satiated, tlie next object of every passenger was liis indi- vidual concerns, and to these we all directed oiu- attention, according to the cii'cumstances in wliich we were placed. Some betook themselves to washing and brushing their clothes ; others were busied with packing up their things and surveying their articles of merchandise. Nearly all wished to appear in their best trim. It was not until these particular arrange- ments had been duly terminated, that public affairs were thought of. Then, in honour of our vessel, it was determined to announce her arrival by fii'ing three salutes. I looked on all these movements with interest, almost envying those passengers who, on shores so remote, could expect to meet with relations and friends — who had somebody to welcome, or at least to receive them at their domestic hearths. I, on the contrary, was neither expected nor had any- hodj to meet me, and having no inducement 128 REVELATIONS to change my travelling dishabille, I remained impassable at the door of my cabin, like St. John's statue standing on the edge of splash- ing wells and streams. At last, dra\vn along with the rest in the general vortex, I stepped on deck, as I thought I should have a good opportunity to see all the preparations for the salute. I had to wait a few moments, as the thunder-bear- ing machine had not yet been brought forward ; but at length the steward made his appearance, and a ridicidously diminutive camion, of the shape of a good-sized rat, was brought after him. I could not help laugh- ing at liis apology for the war engine. I could not think otherwise than that this was a joke and mystification ; yet the counte- nances of all concerned in the business, were full of gravity. As soon as we had arrived near enough to Berezov, three salvos were fired, and I found to my astonishment that the report was far louder than I expected. Thence I could not help drawing this most instructive moral, which is not the worse for being found in many ingenious fables, that "it does not OF SIBERIA. 129 require to be great to make much noise in the world." Our vessel at last stopped. The anchor was cast, and passengers thronged to the boats all eager to land. The Cossack who escorted us, and whose mother resided at Berezov, was the first that disembarked, having to procui-e for us a tem- porary lodging. Josephine and I remained on board, and we saw no earthly reason why we should be in a hurry to go ashore. I experienced not the least impatience for the Cossack's return, and though hours elapsed and he came not, I felt quite uncon- cerned. I employed the interval in taking a survey of Berezov. I could discern two Russo-Greek churches built of brick, and a large house of wood, painted yellow, standing on a hill, that overlooked the river. The rest of the town consisted of small wooden houses, the largest two stories high, and all appearing dingy and blackened with rain. The town was siuTounded, except on the side fronting the river, by a cedar forest, presenting an interminable back-ground of wood. The Horodnitchi, who is the highest functionary resident in the town, came along- G 3 130 REVELATIONS Bide in a large and comfortables boat to convey us to our temporary lodgings, till we could find some more suitable. Notwith- standing this civility, and liis apologies for having kept us waiting two hours, with a pressing invitation to us to go on shore with him in his own boat, I could not leave the vessel without some apprehensions and mis- givings, as Josephine and I were the only persons now on board, all having gone ashore immediately on our coming to anchor, and everything in the bark being left to take care of itself. Without letting a word drop before the functionary, I communicated this fact to our Cossack, but he assured me that there was nothing to fear, as all was perfectly safe. Without more words, therefore, we got into the boat, the Horodnitchi and the Cossack with us, and left the vessel and its contents under the safeguard of the public fliith. OF SIBERIA. 131 CHAPTEE YIII. The bay— Lodgings — Want of market — Sour clucks — Nights with daylight— Breakfast on water— New Lodgings — Supper — Arrangement of the rooms — Superfluous gifts— The hostess— Sudden summer heat. We disembarked at the quay in the bay, and found a crowd of people of all classes, old and young, standing on the shore, the women dressed in gaudy, bright colours, their gowns, pelisses, and handkerchiefs shniing like so many flower beds, as if it were a fair. Seeing this assemblage of people at one point, not on Sunday, but on a working day, I con- ceived quite a different idea of Berezov from what I had previously entertained. 132 EEVELATIONS Making oui- way tlii'ough this throng, we proceeded, in company mth the imperial func- tionary, to the lodgings prepared for us. After so long a voyage, and confinement in a narrow cabin, where we could scarcely make three steps across, it was quite a relief to enjoy the unconstrained freedom of our feet, and a luxury to be put into possession of two airy, light and cleanly rooms. The only drawback was that the fire being lighted in the stove shortly before our arrival, as is usual on such occasions, there was a suffo- cating smell from it. But the Cossack, who from our guard had become our landlord, suggested we should in the meanwhile occupy the room of his own family ; and according to the custom of the country, we were treated with tea. As we were now, however, close upon St. Peter's Day, a period of strict Lent, the tea was served without milk or cream ; and tea is a beverage which I could never bear without the latter accessories. More- over, we were very hungry. But as it would have been anything but good taste to impose laws on hospitality so courteously ofiered to us, we repressed our desire for more substan- OF SIBERIA. 133 tial food, comforting ourselves with the idea of having our own household arranged very speedily, when we could do whatever we wished. When the stove had burnt out, and the rooms were ventilated, we retired to our rooms. All our luggage, together with the cow, was still on board the vessel ; and we were told that we could hardly have them this day, as it was difficult to find people who would disembark them; and besides, our present lodging being occupied but temporarily, it was difficult to provide a place for them. Not seeing much reason, therefore, why we should be in a hurry, I asked our landlord if he could procure us some articles of food from the market, when he replied that there was none in the town. "No market! Then where do you get youi- food ? " I inquired. *' Everybody gets his food where he can," was his reply. I never supposed, nor could any such idea have ever entered into my imagination, that a town could exist without a market. Yet such was the case here ; and we saw that we 134 REVELATIOXS could not do othermse than accommodate oui'selves to the exigency. I inquired of the Cossack whether he could not supply us with something out of his own pantry ; but his reply was, that he had nothing, and all he could give us at that moment was sour ducks, which perhaps would not be to our taste. The himgry are never over dainty . Thinking, therefore that the ducks, of which he spoke so disparagingly, might not be so bad, and that hunger might easily reconcile our palates to a worse dish, I requested that they should be served. This being done, we found to our great mortification that " sour " was but an euphonious term for meat absolutely putrid. We could not touch even a morsel of such disgusting stuff, and there remained no alter- native but to betake ourselves to bed, without appeasing the cravings of hunger. There was no night, but the perfect light of day prevailed the whole time. This differ- ence we could not observe before, while we were on board the vessel, through the narrow window of our cabin, for, though it might have been clear on the deck, the light even OF SIBERIA. 135 of noon could but scantily penetrate into our dormitory. But here the case was different ; it was continual daylight, without any dis- tinction between day and night; and this the more visible from the houses in Siberia having an excessive number of windows. I can hardly account for the introduction of such an absurd taste in architectiure, and one so particularly unsuited to a northern climate. What with the glare of light streaming upon us, the keenness of hunger, and the novelty of our position, neither Josephine nor myself could for a single moment close our eyes, and we passed the whole night in restless attempts to compose ourselves. No sooner did the people of the house awake in the morning, than we saw a tea- urn, with boiling water and milk, figure on our table ; but the good people probably had forgotten that we had neither tea nor sugar, as our things were yet on board the vessel. Josephine and I exchanged looks, and easily guessed that, after the last day's fast, we were doomed again to a meagre diet. But we gathered strength fi'om resignation, and the samovar being an-anged by our 136 REVELATIONS landlord's daughter, after she left the room, we filled our cups with water and milk, and baby-like partook of this innocent beverage. But, wishing to put a stop to our discomfort, we immediately afterwards went out to look for a lodging where we might in some manner or other establish ourselves. In our search after lodgings, we went straight to the house recommended to us at Tobolsk, by Colonel Krzyzanowski, where, as he assured us, he was comfortably lodged for fourteen months. The proprietor was a Cossack, named Kozlow. There being no market at Berezov, and not having any servant, it was idle to think of any arrangement for a separate household. We were soon convinced that we could not do otherwise than take board and lodging, as all strangers and even government officials, who arrive here without families, usually do ; and this the more, as no provisions could be got except those supplied at the government contract, and from government stores. Per- suaded, therefore, that this was by far the better course, we made proposals to the Cossack to that effect, and these being agreed OF SIBERIA. 137 to, our contract was completed, and people were despatched to fetch our luggage from the vessel. Meanwhile our new landlady, on hearing til at we had not yet dined, immediately made arrangements to prepare a repast for us, and in a few moments we saw a dish of excellent gruel, boiled mth milk, placed on our table, together with some cakes. She also promised she would procure us some game, and other more substantial articles of food for our next meal. By this, and several other things that came within our obser- vation, we were soon convinced that the different reports we had heard at Tobolsk, in disparagement of Berezov, were not founded in truth. We saw plenty of cattle, and of a superior breed. Our landlady alone kept ten cows ; and many of her neighbours had as many, and some even a greater number. We lost no time in arranging the rooms assigned to us. They were tliree in number, and the floor of each was very clean, and the walls papered . ur things were safely brought from the vessel ; and, having unpacked and put them all in order, we were delighted 138 REVELATIONS witli the appearance of oiu' new home. Both the landlord and the landlady were all attention to us, and we could even observe that their civility was not unmixed with a good deal of sympathy for om* fate. Their services, therefore, instead of being mercenary, as they commonly are, seemed rather a protection which they extended to us — a helping hand of kindness in distress and need. They both assisted us in arranging our chambers, and were most anxious to make them as comfortable and snug as possible. Thus we were happily settled in our habitation, everything was in its place and in order. We had even more farniture than we could find room for. Among such super- fluities, in particular, were a sofa, a table, and two arm-chaii's, which we had brought from Tobolsk. They had been given us by Onupluy Yietrasz Kiewicz, who, in his excessive anxiety for us, thinking we might want them at Berezov, abridged his o^vn comforts, and packed them with our other effects on board the vessel. His gift, which was a privation to him, now happened to OF SIBERIA. 139 prove but an incumbrance to us, as there was enough fumitui-e in the house, which, though not exquisite, and only of rough wood, was yet good enough. These pieces of furniture had however, the most prominent and the most simny position — that is, the place of honour asigned to them, to add as it were some splen- dour to oiu" humble domicile. Looking on these objects of superfluity, I often thought how far a noble mind, when not corrupted by fortune, or crushed by adversity — placed though he may be amidst mast trying circumstances — can be useful to others. This certainly was evidenced by the example set by the donor of these souvenirs. I have myself witnessed him struggling with poverty, as he was compelled to maintain himself by the labour of his own hands ; but in spite of his limited means, he was never weary of assisting his compatriots in their difficulties ; by his advice, his intercession, his personal services, and not unfrequently even by his purse. Our landlady, who was well off, thrifty and hospitable, though rustic in her man- ners, behaved towards us with great kindness, 140 REVELATIOXS not in the manner in which it is customary to treat boarders in our own towns where they have bread dealt out to them by morsels, and every additional comfort calculated and bargained for ; but she considered us rather as guests Avhom Providence had brought under her roof. Whatever her house possessed was placed at our service— as nice cakes, and good cream, and other articles of the best quality, such as made our food not only palatable, but almost luxurious. Yet I cannot say but that the appearance of some of the dishes was very strange, and at first repulsive to us. Such were the roast duck, with a cold sauce prepared of vinegar and cream, and a meat pudding boiled in milk. But amidst a variety of dishes, which were at each meal brought on our table, we had only to choose, and need not be hungry. After a day or two, it suddenly became very hot. It seemed as though we had made an abrupt leap from winter to summer. One day we were obliged to have a fii'e in the stove, and on the next day the heat was intolerable. The whole face of the earth was then brown, and the trees naked ; but now OF SIBERIA. 141 we saw grass springing up, plants sprouting, trees bursting into leaves ; and the hollyhock appearing in bloom. The change was as sudden as it was marvellous. We could scarcely believe that within the short interval of eight hours, Nature had effected such a great change. What had become of spring ! what of that spring in which our senses are filled with such rap- turous delight, and which divides the frost of winter fi'om the sultriness of summer ? Here the leap is instantaneous. Yesterday the warmest clothing hardly sufficed to keep me warm; to-day again, the heat is so intense that we are obliged to cool the water we wish to drink with ice. The day was everlasting, and whether we clothed oiu- eyes or awoke from sleep, day- light was constantly streaming in at the windows, and circling over the horizon. No dew was to be met with here ; and the earth had none the whole summer. Oh, lovely spring of my country ! how I shall ever remember, and ever long for thee ! 142 REVELATIONS CHAPTEE IX. Rapidity of vegetation — Preparations for tlie fisheries in the Oby Gulf — Performance of a religious rite — A family farewell — A touching scene— Site of Berezov —Streets — Structure of the houses — Churches — Burial places — Menzikov's corpse — His grave — Graves of other exiles — Classification of the inhabitants — Pro- visions — A Siberian school. With all these drawbacks, however, I must confess that Berezov did not appear to me so terrible as various reports had repre- sented it. There is a proverb which says, " that even the Devil was handsome when he was young ;" and this might be as fitly applied to certain regions in the regenerating season of spring. In July, everything around Berezov OF SIBERIA. 143 appeared in new and gay apparel. Larch trees were decked with tiny leaves of the freshest verdiu-e, filling the air ^4th sweet perfnme. The grass, qnickened by the moistiu'e of the thawing soil, grew incredibly fast. The river Soswa, overflowing its banks far and wide, presented to the eye an immense expanse of water, encii-cling with her arms numberless islands covered with willows, and disappearing in the distance like a mirror of clear azure. Nearer us, it is rolling and roaring, aixl dashing its foam- ing billows against the precipitous banks of the town. Along the shore lay a number of fishing- boats and barges, prepared for a voyage to the Oby sea. They formed a forest of masts, curiously rigged and decked with number- less coloiu'ed flags, which flaunted on the air. Smaller craft were plying to and fro between, the shore, and the larger vessels freighted with stores and provisions. These preparations, unusual in this remote spot at any other season, rendered the town quite animated. Our host, though an aged man, had en- 144 REVELATIONS gaged to take part with others in a fishing expedition; the fishing season on the Oby sea, being for the inhabitants of this part of the world, what the harvest season is in other countries. Everybody in good health and vigour, not having any more important employment at home, participates in it. The necessary preparations being completed, the scene of taking farewell at home fol- lowed. In one of our rooms, screened by ciu'tains, was an image of the tutelar saint of the house, suiTOunded by a number of other images of saints of less dimensions, decked all in gold or silver apparel. On the eve of parting, the aged man, accompanied by all his family, entered the room, and knelt before this shrine, touching the floor several times with his forehead, and repeating a short prayer. All then arose, and the venerable old man, with tpars in his eyes, bade farewell to his wife and cliildi'en, and to us, whom he considered as belonging to his family. At the same time, he addi'essed a few words to his wife, commending us to her particular protection and care. Then OF SIBERIA, 145 amidst the tears of all, he proceeded to the place of embarkation. He was accompanied by his family, and by a large number of his friends, who waited on the shore till they saw him safe on board the vessel. My heart was full, and tears gushed involuntarily from my eyes. For my part, I am not conscious that greatness, or splen- dour, or the contrivances of luxury, have any attraction for me, or that I ever longed for the possession of them; but a neat and cleanly dwelling, however humble, where concord, order, and competence reign, has invariably had an uncommon charm for me. In such a place I have always been desirous to live and die. Throughout my life, feelings of the heart alone constituted my world, and from them alone sprang all my delights and sorrows, my hours of happiness and of pain. I derived my bliss more from the hand of I^ature than from society. But alas ! this was but a dream — an idle reverie. It was just on that point that the thunderbolt had struck, and at one blow demolished all my joys. VOL. I. H 146 REVELATIONS As July advanced, a northern breeze cooled the air, and there were not so many musquitos. I now frequently walked out, in order to get a view of the town, and become acquainted, as far as possible, with its environs. Berezov is a distinct town of the govern- ment of Tobolsk, situated in 64*^ latitude, on the left side of the Soswa, which, at a short distance from it, empties itself into the Oby. The banks of the river, on which the town is built, are elevated. The soil is sandy, and the streets are always sandy and muddy even during the greatest summer heat. On the surface of the mud, however, during summer, a dry incrustation is formed; but woe to the person who, trusting in its ap- parent solidity and firmness, should venture to direct his unfortunate feet on it, as the deceitful crust would break under him, and he would have hard work to emerge from the quagmire beneath. Communication fr'om one house to another is therefore not easy; and boards, large, long wooden planks, and round stems of whole OF SIBERIA. 147 trees, are laid across the streets, to facilitate it. In some places, we observed pools of clear water, too deep to be ever dried up. These pools are honoured by the inhabitants with the appellation of ozera, or lakes. In our towns such a wi'etched state of things would never be tolerated ; for what inhabitants would like to have theii* houses built in streets which are impassable for any vehicle ? But here, this inconvenience is of no importance. During the whole summer, we did not see one caniage pass through the streets. There are no wheels, no carts, no horses ; and there are, of course, no roads. In town, all communications between the inhabitants are effected on foot, and out of its precincts, by boats on the river. The whole sui'face of the district of Berezov has as yet remained untouched by the wheel. No trace of a furrow is seen on it. Nor indeed would a road be of any use, Avhile the whole extent of land is but an uninterrupted track of wilderness. The few inhabitants that belong to this district, are settled only on the banks of rivers ; and it is cliiefly by means of water communication H 2 148 REVELATIONS that they provide themselves with the neces- saries of life, as wood for fuel and building, and the different articles of food and of barter, which they carry on with the Ostiaks and the Samoieds. The rest of the Upper- lands, stretching as far and as wide as imagin- ation can conceive, has, on its whole extent, not a single town, not a village, nor even a single human hut. It is a complete desert, inhabited only by wild beasts. Owing to a complete want of roads from one place to another, the country presents an aspect totally different from other regions. Only when swamps, marshes, and rivers are frozen over, and when their surface can bear the weight of the rein-deer, can any traffic by land be prosecuted, and at that season Berezov may be seen somewhat enlivened by the appearance in the streets of these most useful aninals. The town does not consist of more than about two hundi^ed houses, nearly all of which are but a story high. The principal reason for the adoption of this style of build- ing is the humidity of the ground. The ground-floor of a dwelling is appropriated to OF SIBERIA. 149 the kitchen, the pantry, and other household offices; the upper part alone is inhabited. I could never explain to myself satisfactorily why Berezov has been commonly described as an island, as it is washed only on one side; hj the river, and on all other sides is con- tinuous land. Even the Eussians give the place this false designation, with the difference that they speak of it in the pliu-al number, as Bere- sovski Ostrowa (Berezovian Islands.) The name of Berezovian Isles is meant for the whole flat, extensive plain on the right bank of the Soswa, traversed by that river, and intersected by other tributary rivers and streams, which thus form a sort of con- tinental archipelago of islands, formerly called by the name of Berezovian Islands, and which on that account might have caused Berezov, after its elevation to the rank of a district town, to be called after them. Berezov has two churches, one called Spaska, the other Zamczaina, and both are built of brick. The appellation of the latter signifies transfluvian, the chui'ch being situ- 150 REVELATIONS ated on the opposite side of a deep ravine, whicli, diu-ing the innndation of the Soswa, is filled Avith vrater from that river. At that time, the chiu-ch is only accessible by a bridge constructed over the ravine. It stands on a hilly bank, from which the "sdew is beautiful. A sombre old forest of larch trees (Pinus cemhra^) surroimds the sacred edifice. According to tradition, the larches of this forest are a remnant of a sacred grove, dedi- cated to idolatrous worship by the ancient Ostiaks. Up to the present day, although a considerable number of the Ostiaks have been converted to Christianity, the neophytes have not discontinued the worship of ancient larch trees, which prevailed among their fore- fathers. Near the sylvan church is an aristocratic burial-place, adorned with monuments of stone and marble, though the most recent are of iron. Another burial-ground, appropriated to the poor, lies on the other side of the town, in the forest. The Spaska church is situated in the oppo- site quarter of Berezov. Formerly there OF SIBERIA. 151 was a burial-place adjacent, but by order of the Government this has of late been abolished and another opened in the forest. At a little distance from the latter is the grave of Menzikov. This last resting-place of a celebrated man was discovered only a few years ago, whether accidentally, or after a search, nobody can tell. His body was exhumed, and was found clad in the uniform of his time, completely frozen, and in perfect freshness, as though it had been buried but yesterday. The earth near Berezov never entirely thaws, even in summer, when the heat is most intense, but merely on the surface, or to a very superficial depth.* * It has been observed that the earth in the northern parts of Siberia is congealed to an extraordinary depth, and probably has ever been so ; but it much varies in degree at different places. Hedenstrom. made several trials at Tomsk, and found the ground only frozen to the depth of thirty-five inches, latitude 56° 50'. At Yakutsk, again, 62° north latitude, the Russian American Company bored for water in the court-yard of their establishment to the depth of three hundred and eighty feet ; and the ground was still frozen and no water found. In that same town the inhabitants have cellars under all 152 REVELATIONS The body of the once mighty minister and imperial favourite was again buried, and the grave marked by a small earthen moimd, covered over with turf. It is sun'ounded also by a wooden rail, which does not promise much durability. No stone, no inscription whatever announces who lies beneath ; and in a short time, it is most probable no trace will remain on earth commemorative of a man born under such a singular star — who rose from the humblest class of society to the highest dignities — who held for a long time the balance of nations in his hand — who had placed his descendants within a single foot- step of the throne — and who, rapid as had been his rise, was still more rapidly precipi- tated into the abyss of misery and oblivion. The inhabitants of Berezov preserve as yet their houses made in the frozen ground, precisely as ice- houses are made in other countries. In summer, when the heat is as excessive as the cold is in winter, they place all their fresh provisions, such as milk, meat, and fish, in these cellars, where everything becomes frozen in two hours. They likewise construct their graves in the same way, except that they make large fires above, and bum the holes in the ground. OF SIBERIA. 153 ill theii' memory the particular sjDot where Menzikov, during his baiiishment, lived ; and where stood the hut in which he lodged, near the Spaska chui-ch. The hut, unfortunately, was biu-nt down during the great fire of 1798, by which nearly the whole town was reduced to ashes. It is also related, on no other authority than what the people have heard from older persons, that subsequent to his downfall, Menzikov became very religious; that he used to go with his axe to the forest to fell the trees, and that he died a starost, or an elder of the Spaska chui'ch. At the Spaska church, a missal is pre- sei-ved, a gift from the Princess Olga Dolgoruki, another gi'eat personage, w^ho was banished to Berezov. I have myself seen the missal, which is inscribed with her autograph. I was also told that in the same church two children of Menzikov's daughter were buried. In what spot Prince Dolgoruki and Osterman were buried nobody could inform me. Berezov might be said to be the Necro- polis of Eussian greatness. The population of the town consists chiefly H 3 1 54 REVELATIOJfS of Cossacks, on whom it is iiicumbont to watch over the security of the covmtiy ; but the whole being in a state of perfect peace, their service is limited to keeping watch at the few Government offices, and carrying official messages from this place to Tobolsk. At other times, they devote themselves to commercial pursuits, which are for the most part carried on with the Ostiaks, and constitute the prin- cipal and almost the sole source of their live- lihood and their wealth. From his infancy, the Cossack of this place is impressed with the idea that he is bom for commerce, and being trained to it by his parents, becomes acquainted with all its details and mysteries. There are several shops in the town, in which different articles can be purchased, as calico, tea, sugar, confectionary, wine, &c. Plour and other victuals, or what is commonly termed "the staff of life," are, according to the quantity required for home consumption, bought by the inhabitants from vessels when they arrive, and laid up for the whole winter. There being no market, every householder must procure provisions elsewhere, or devise OF SIBERIA. 155 some means by which he may be enabled to obtain them himself. The river and the forest thus become the market-place, and skill and perseverance are disbursed in place of money. Berezov is divided into two parishes of the Eusso- Greek Church, and is the residence of a Pope and Protopope. It is also the seat of the district government, and of its jurisdic- tion in all its different ramifications, in accordance with the general regulation of the whole Eussian empire, with the sole exception of the so-styled Marshal of the Noblesse, there being nobody here whom that dignitary could represent. The whole duty of the functionaries, after all, is almost nominal, as scarcely any cases come under their consideration. In accordance with the general regulations, there is likewise a district school, composed of two classes, where the Cossacks, and nearly all the citizens, send their children to be taught reading and writing. The studies do not, however, extend very far ; for no sooner do the parents perceive that their children have learned reading with facility, 156 REVELATIONS and the art of casting up accounts with the Ostiaks, than they take them away from school, as, in their opinion, any further learn- ing would only be a waste of time. or SIBERIA. 157 CHAPTER X. Musquitos — Visits — Bashfalness of a hostess — A mer- chant widow's house — Objects of luxury and European taste — Not at home — Summer heat— Courtesy of the Berezovian maids— Flight — Arrival of Madame X A Berezovian Bloomer — A Polish maid-servant. What a pity that one cannot profit by the fine but short summer moments at Berezov. The sight of a beautiful forest almost touch- ing the threshold of the house, the deep shade beneath the far spreading branches of tall cedars, or of deep green larches, was deliciously inviting, and we often were tempted to seek refuge amidst it from the piercing rays of the sun ; but no sooner did we venture into the shade, than we were 158 REVELATIONS surrounded by dense swarms of musquitos, which, starting from their ambuscades, attacked us on all sides. There was no possibility of reiDelling such myriads of blood- thirsty assailants. Yet after covering our faces with visors of hair, with which the lady of General Potemkin had provided us at Tobolsk, and our hands with thick gloves, and being otherwise armed, cap-d-pie, we stoutly marched on, nothing daunted, to the encounter, repelling their attacks as courage- ously as we could ; but all our efforts proved unsuccessful. After a short and desperate combat, we were obliged to beat a retreat, blistered from head to foot. Finding it quite impossible to make excursions in the forest, we resolved to cultivate our acquain- tance with the persons of the place ; and, as the Horodnitchi was the principal inhabi- tant, and had already several times called on us, we thought it would be most becoming to commence our round of visits with him. We accordingly called at his house, and were ushered in. Here we were welcomed by a young and handsome lady, who proved to be his wife. She said not a word, but OF SIBERIA. 159 showed by a pleasing smile that she was gratified at our visit. Presently she left the room to look for her husband, who in a short time aiTived. Meanwhile we looked round the apartments, which were particularly neat and clean. A few minutes afterwards, the youthful lady of the house re-appeared, more hand- somely dressed. She was preceded by a servant with a tray loaded with a variety of sweetmeats and confectionary, of which, with divers signs and smiles, but not utter- ing a single word, she politely pressed us to partake. The expression of her countenance was that of exceeding bashfiilness ; but as she was very yoimg, handsome, and of a mild disposition, I began to feel an instan- taneous affection for her, such as is fi-equently experienced at the sight of a shy child shrinking at the appearance of strangers, and displaying only to the family cii'cle all the genuine charms and beauty of her character. I endeavoured in every possible way to reassure her, and therefore frequently addressed my conversation solely to herself. She appeared, however, scarcely to under- 160 REVELATIONS stand my friendly wishes, for her replies to my remarks were whispered in her husband's ears, and he, like an echo, repeated her words aloud. Fearing lest our first visit would prove too severe a task for the young hostess, I rose to take leave, when she sud- denly exclaimed, "Da Kakje? Samovar!" (How can you leave us ? the tea-um !) These were the first words we had heard her utter. Thinking that our departure, without com- plying with her request, might be construed by her husband into a want of courtesy, and that she herself might feel grieved, we con- sented to remain to tea, and then separated, as I had good reason to think, on the best possible terms. Having once started on our wandering tour, after leaving the Horodnitchi's house, we thought we might at the same time call on a Madame Nizegorodtyow, the relict of a wealthy merchant, to whom we had been furnished with a letter of introduction by her daughter at Tobolsk. This lady's resi- dence was the largest in the town, and by far the finest. On my first arrival at Berezov, I was, as I have already described, OF SIBERIA. IGl particularly struck by its appearance. It comprised a central structure, occupied by herself and her family, and two Avings, each one story high, appropriated to the servants. The coui't-yard was enclosed with a strong wooden fence, which, as well as the whole mansion, was painted yellow; contrasting strongly with the rest of the dingy wooden houses of the town, and the dark forest scenery in the background. We were just entering the first open door, when we were met by a young man, who, in a most polite manner, offered to lead us to the mistress of the house. Having conducted us through a suite of apartments, well furnished and exquisitely clean, he showed us to a drawing-room, when, as we looked round, he suddenly disappeared, not unlike an ethereal substance dissolved in space. We had some misgivings — and we were not far wrong — that he was a little annoyed at the incompleteness of his toilet, as he was attired in his di'essing-gown. But we waited and waited, and nobody appeared, though we every moment expected to see the mistress of the house. Meanwhile, we felt not the 1G2 REVELATIONS least impatient, as tlie position in which we happened to be placed rather amused us by its novelty. Moreover, everything on which we fixed our eyes struck us with amazement, by its rarity, exquisiteness, and even luxury. In any other part of the world, these objects would certainly not have so absorbed my attention; but to meet such objects of splendour, and of European taste and industry at Berezov, in the land of the wild Ostiaks — at this extremity and last nook of the world — was, I must confess, what I never could have anticipated. The mansion — for it might justly be styled such — was spacious and commodious, con- taining stately apartments, with lofty windows, commanding in front a view of the boundless sheet of water and magnificent forest. Every pane of glass was exquisitely clean and spotless ; rows of flower-]3ots stood in the windows, with all sorts of plants, vigorous and fi:esh ; and all the more charm- ing, from their being so rare in that desolate region. Mirrors of enormous size, mahogany furnitm'e, paintings, crystal and china vases and silver plate, bore testimony to the wealth OF SIBERIA. 163 of their owner, and to her Eiu'opean taste and refinement. With such things aroimd, one could easily forget that the locality was Berezov ; and forget I did. For a moment, even the purpose of my visit passed fi'om my mind, so completely was I absorbed in delightful recollections. At length the door opened, and ,1 was reminded of the object for which I had come. I raised my eyes, but instead of the lady of the house, for whom we had so long been waiting, the young man whom we had first encountered again presented himself, now attired in a stylish velvet dressing-gown. This Siberian beau, we now learned, was the widow's son. He said that he came to inform us that his mother was not at home ; but had gone to call on her daughter, the wife of the Du^ector of Police. If we would wait, however, he would immediately send a message to apprise her of our visit, and he was sure she would eagerly return. Of course, we could not consent to such an arrangement, and took leave, promising to call some other day. The heat now grew insupportable, and 164 REVELATIONS kept us imprisoned in-doors. There was no dew at night, no cooling breeze of sunset, no fresh air of morning; but ever and ever incessant sunshine burning and scorching unremittingly. The sun made scarcely a momentary dip imder the horizon, even then not entirely concealing his burning rays, and soon he lifted up his fiery orb again. It was impossible to breathe — impossible to sit in a chair — impossible to do any work. Utter lassitude crept over the whole frame, repressing all vigour and vital power. I moved from place to place in search of relief, hoping to find some cool spot, but in vain. Sometimes I threw myself on the floor, or dragged my steps to a bath, where I deluged myself with buckets of cold water. This certainly was refreshing, and did me good ; but the benefit derived from even such a mode of cooling would be but momentary, and was far from making me insensible to the over- powering hot blast of the surrounding atmos- phere. From this I became so debilitated, that my feet began to swell, and I grew apprehensive of dropsy. We were told that the current of air on OF SIBERIA. 165 the river side, was usually far cooler than in other places. Towards evening, when the heat augmented in intensity, we would proceed to this favoured locality. But here we foimd our expectations of relief sadly fi'ustrated, being assailed on all sides by a cloud of merciless musquitos, who could only be repelled by a great amount of exertion. On the occasion of our fii'st visit to the river, this was not om* only mischance. The young women of the Berezovian Cossack families — very excellent creatures, but exceedingly eager after novelty, as our sex generally are — seeing in what direction we were walking, being desirous either of making om' acquaintance, or getting a good view of us, followed us in a body. Absolutely running along, they soon overtook us, and though we were perfect strangers to all, covered us with kisses. They were full of commiseration, too, for our solitude, and promised to do all in their power to amuse us diu'ing our sta}^ amongst them, and in proof of the interest they took in us, over- whelmed us with questions on our affairs, 1G6 REVELATIONS Having passed through the double ordeal of an attack from the musquitos and the young women, and being persuaded that to run the risk of such encounters in an open field would be anything but agreeable, we beat a retreat, determined to intrench our- selves within the walls of our o-^ti domicile, which we at length reached in safety. Not until we saw ourselves within our o^vn threshold, did we begin to breathe with freedom, rejoiced to escape both from the stings of the musquitos and the caresses of the Cossack women. "We made a vow not to go out of doors until our winged assailants should have disappeared, when we might brave the fair Cossacks. Even the enjoy- ment of fresh air, however desirable and necessary, could not compensate for the trouble we had had in battling with the formidable insects ; and glad we were to be again at rest. But this day seemed to have been marked in black in the book of our horoscope. On looking round our rooms, where we had ex- pected to find retirement and comfort, the sole consolation we could command, we were OF SIBERIA. 167 amazed to observe a scene of complete dis- arrangement and disorder. Madame X had amved from Tobolsk. We had happened, durmg our stay in that city, to become acquainted with her ; and on the score of that acquaintance, though our interview had scarcely lasted a couple of hours, she had now paid us an uninvited visit. Our surprise may be conceived, when, on opening the door of our apartments, we saw a stranger in a man's dressing-gown and boots, with cropped hair, surmounted by a jockey-cap, sitting on the sofa, smoking a pipe. At the same time, our reception-room, the best we had, was crammed with boxes, large and small, with rifles, yatagans, smoking- pipes, tobacco-bags, and other specimens of man's and woman's chattels blended con- fusedly together. I was astounded at this spectacle, and at a loss to comprehend what could have happened. Madame X did not let me wait long for an explanation. She informed me that her mother and several sisters resided at Berezov, and she had come on a visit to them ; that on all such occasions when she arrived, she in- 168 REVELATIONS variably used to lodge in oui* apartments ; and that, but shortly before she set out on her journey, she had sent word to our land- lady, informing her of her intended visit. But although the rooms were occupied by us, she added, there was no reason why she should change her plan, being sui-e that there was room enough for her and for oui-selves, and that it would be even more pleasant for both parties to lodge together. I was confounded at the boldness, and still more at the nonchalance with which this pro- position was made, and must confess that I quite lost my presence of mind. I was un- certain whether I should consider her as my guest, or as a fellow-lodger, not clearly com- prehending, in fact, in which light she regarded herself. But Madame X , who had no idea of any such thing, and to whom all consideration appeared superfluous, only asked: "Which of the rooms are you going to give me ?" " If I am to judge by the language in which you have addressed us," I replied, " I suppose you mean to be considered as our guest ; and as you have ah'eady made OF SIBERIA. ]69 clioice of the room wliicli appeared to be the most suitable to you, we, of course, must allow you, fi'om the respect we bear to the laws of hospitality, to keep it. We place it, then, at your service." This room being the largest of the three, all our efforts were directed to keep it in a tidy, and even ornamental condition; and hitherto it had served us both as a sitting- room and a reception-room. In an apart- ment beyond, which was smaller, and approached by a glass door, we slept ; and a tliii'd, and still smaller room, was appro- priated as a store. Flattering myself with the hope that Madame X 's coiu'tesy would not allow us to remain long in such a straitened dwell- ing, and that her stay would be of but short duration, I resolved to bear with her patiently Meanwhile, however, we were doomed to part with our greatest comfort at Berezov — that of being alone in our domestic retreat. We had a room less, and a companion too many, besides Madame X 's pet goose, her constant companion, fi-om wliich she could never part, and which she was in the VOL. I. I 170 REVELATIONS habit of caressing, as others do lap-dogs. It is true, the silly animal did not bark, but it made the house resound with its incessant cackling. Madame X was a native of Siberia, a genuine Siberian breed, and distinguishe d by great originality. She dressed in man's attire, and fired the pistol, went hunting, and kept a collection of arms. She treated all the forms and usages of society with contempt, spurned them as shackles imposed on free-will, fetters on the mind; and considered herself superior to the rest of her sex, in so far as she differed from them by the boldness of her conduct and the singularity of her di-ess and manners. She particularly relished the society of the exiles, and lived much with them. These, well knowing the peculiarities of her character, and being amused with them, instead of restraining her, as they ought, in her hizarre tastes and vagaries, admired her independence of mind, her freedom fi-om restraint, and her strange habits. From self-love and female vanity, she became as emancipated a woman as could well be imagined, and almost maddened her poor husband, who, in spite OF SIBERIA. 171 of her eccentricities, loved her despe- rately. On the score of this very frame of mind, Madame X imagined she was best suited to be a natiu'al companion and friend of ours. Her heart was not bad — of that we were assured; and she felt sympathy with our fate. But as she had never been a mother, and had not the least conception of what family ties are, she would hardly have guessed whence most of the sorrows of the heart sprang. Of all the evils which in our situation of exiles we had to suffer, she con- sidered solitude to be the greatest and the only one. All ties which were torn asunder could, in her opinion, be replaced by others ; and she was persuaded that, if she could only make us laugh or otherwise amuse us, she had done all to render our lives happy. Such was her conviction ; and she took credit for performing a noble act of humanity by becoming our constant companion, and introducing her acquaintances to us, uncon- scious how she was depriving us of our dearest possession ; and instead of making us thank- ful, as we otherwise should have been, for her I 2 172 REVELATIONS good intentions, she caused us intolerable constraint and annoyance. We often won- dered how long this state of things would last, and in what manner we should be extricated fi'om the meshes she had woven around us. But this was a problem which we could not fathom ! OF SIBERIA. 173 CHAPTEE XL Inland navigation — The Berezovian district — Population — Scantiness of cultivation — Manners and customs of the inhabitants — Berezovian women — Origin of the Berezovian Cossacks — Causes of their degeneration — Their military services and emoluments — Their mer- cantile spirit and trafl&c with the natives. Between Berezov and Tobolsk, whatever direction the traveller may wish to take, the only highway is the river. During the summer, as I have formerly observed, com- munication is carried on by vessels, and in winter, when the river is frozen over, by sledges. In fact, rivers are considered to be the only practicable highroads in this country, those by land being obstructed by immense forests, and intersected by numberless streams, 174 REVELATIONS torrents and ravines, with no bridges, and at best but ill-constructed ferries, rendering a journey extremely wearisome and tedious. About the middle of June, Madame Daubel arrived at Berezov, and brought with her a Polish maid-servant, whom Count Morchocki had been kind enough to procure for us. Such servants can easily be got at Tobolsk, from amongst the transported convicts, but it is difficult to get a good one. However, we resolved to give our Franciska a fair trial ; though her eyes had a very sly and sharp expression. Berezov is the central point of the district of that name, a province so extensive that, were it peopled in any proportion to its size, it might be divided into several powerful nations. Some portions of the frontier are considered to be a distance of three thousand versts from Berezov. The district is bounded by the government of Yenisei in the east, that of Tobolsk in the south, by the Uralian Mountains and the government of Wologda in the west, and by the Arctic Ocean in the north. In the whole of this extensive terri- tory, according to the last census, there are OF SIBERIA. 175 not more than fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is however, not easy to vouch for the ac- cui^acy of the census; the tribes of the Ostiaks and the Samoiedes leading a nomade life, and therefore baffling all attempts at regis- tration. Even the country on the banks of the larger rivers, on which alone human settle- ments are found, presented to our sight a terrific wilderness. Throughout the district there is not the least trace of cultivation. At Berezov small patches of ground are planted with turnips, radishes, and some cabbages ; the latter, on account of the ex- treme shortness of the summer, growing only into leaves, and never attaining a heart. These cabbage-leaves are chopped small, as are also the leaves of turnips and radishes, and put together into casks, where they are kept until, from fermentation, they turn sour. From this preparation a dish is made called barshtch, which was not at all to my taste. Potatoes I thought might, if introduced, grow well here, and be of great use to the inhabitants; though, owing to early frost, they could never grow large. A few have 176 REVELATIONS been tried, but only to the extent of from ten to twenty potatoes, and these more as objects of cmiosity than for use. Any one who should attempt planting more, or possess a whole bed of the esculent, would appear, in the eyes of his neighbours, an extraordinary speculator. On the whole, indeed, the Berezovians, as I could observe, did not favour this plant. Being accustomed to animal food, chiefly game, easy of digestion and easily obtained, no wonder that they eschew all such simple edibles, particularly as their cultivation re- quires much care and labour, and the fruit yields, after all, but little nourishment. Madame X , our fellow lodger — for we were still at a loss whether to consider her in the character of a guest or a resident — seldom left us alone, though her mother, brothers, and several married sisters, resided in the town. However, she proved to be less troublesome than we had anticipated after an intrusion so unceremonious. She certainly talked a great deal too much, but she was quite indifferent as to whether we listened, nor was she offended when no an- OF SIBERIA. 177 swer was returned to her questions. Often, when intent on our work, we sat in profound silence, she continued her chattering, and was for hours the only speaker, and, I may add, the only auditor. There were moments, however, in which she caught our attention — for she possessed a vast deal of mother- wit — and we heard fi'om her a number of amusini^j anecdotes of persons, whose characters she often admii'ably described. It is true that we were, to a great extent, losers by her in- road on our freedom and solitude, than which, in our situation, nothing could be more pre- cious. If anything could compensate us for this restraint, the accounts she gave of the manners, characters, and opinions peculiar to the people amongst whom fate had thrown us, certainly made up for it, as, but for her, we should have requii-ed many years to have become, in any degree, conversant with the ideas current in such a wild country, or to have imderstood the real condition of the inhabitants. Nevertheless, Madame X 's goose ceased not to be a great annoyance to m&. It was a real plague in the house. No I 3 178 REVELATIOXS sooner did it awake from its sleep, which it commonly did between two and thi'ce o'clock in the morning, than it began its disagree- able cackling, rendering sleep on our part impossible. Nor could we bring ourselves to the custom of indemnifying ourselves for tliis loss of om- night's rest, as Madame X Avas wont to do, by a nap after dinner. Throughout Siberia the custom of the so- called siesta, in the afternoon, is as universal as sleep at night in European coimtries. In all houses the window-shutters are closed, and the people go regularly to bed for several hoiu-s. During this interval no visits are made, nor any business transacted. At Tobolsk, at these siesta hoiu's, the shops are shut tlii'oughout the town. Business and amusements are, as a consequence, protracted far into the night. Playing at cards is a favourite amusement, and commonly all leisure hours in Siberia are spent in gambling. I had to thank Madame X for a few acquaintances. In my round calls with her I found more beauties among the women than I anticipated ; and what sui'prised me most OF SIBERIA. 179 was, that among them were many brunettes, with jet-black eyes. Fair hair and light blue eyes are admitted to be the exceptional type of the Eussian race ; and I am thus led to conclude that the dark complexion, both in men and women, denotes descent from the Cossacks of the Black Sea, who accompanying Yermak, their chief, on liis excursion into Siberia, settled in the coimtry, and remained a distinct race. My conjectiu-e seemed to tally with the account the Cossacks gave of themselves. One portion of them maintained that they sprang from the companions of Yermak, who, after his conquest of Siberia, had left them there as settlers. They principally consisted of volimteers fi'om the Dnieper and the Don, and from Lithuania ; some actuated by the hope of improving their condition, and others by the love of adventure. Another portion of them asserted that they were at a later period added as auxiliaries to the former by the celebrated merchants, Strogonoffs, from their villages beyond the Ural, in order to keep the conquered country in subjection. The latter, as to their external appearance, 180 REVELATIONS evidently bear more affinity to the common Kussian type, and in many characteristics much differ from the others. The generality of the modem Cossacks of tliis place are a degenerate race, preserving none of the spiiit, courage, and boldness of their valorous ancestors. The constant peace and security which they enjoy, has contiibuted to extinguish among this people all warlike and even manly qualities. Becoming sluggards, they have merely turned merchants and barterers. They languish after their feather beds, and are ready to sacrifice everything for comfort, I saw young men of twenty years cry like babies, when they happened not to get theii' tea at the usual hour. The Cossacks of Berezov are subject to the laws common to the rest of the Cossacks, in the Eussian Empire. Every male of that race is bound to serve in the army, fi-om his seventeenth year to an advanced period of life. Even old age does not exempt any one from this servitude, unless his utter incapa- city is attested by the proper military autho- rities. The military duty, however, is usually not very burthensome, and rarely calls them OP SIBERIA. 181 far from home. Keeping sentry at a few government offices at Berezov, and service on the general staff of Tobolsk, which a few are obliged to perform annually, by rotation, com- prise the whole routine. As a compensation, they are exempt from payment of taxes, and receive from the Government a certain quan- tity of flour and barley for subsistence. Of this class of Cossacks some get promoted to the rank of officers, which, according to the Eussian law, confers nobility on the persons possessing it, though the distinction is in no case hereditary. A colonel's son, therefore, is nothing more than a common Cossack, and if ambitious of promotion, he is obliged to gain it by his own efforts. Formerly the Cossacks were at liberty to enter the civil service, but they do not now possess this privilege. In their character of citizens, the Cossacks of Berezov might in many instances be classed with the Jews of my own country. They are traffickers, but not producers ; their occupation is merely trading. Sometimes they go fishing, but never engage in wood- craft or hunting. The usual articles of com- 182 REVELATIONS merce, as well as all the necessaries of life, with fish and game, can only be obtained from the Ostiaks. The common daily household business is likewise done by people hired from amidst that tribe. The great fishing season commences in the month of June, and lasts till the latter end of August, thus occupying the whole of the summer. A number of vessels sail fi-om Berezov, for the fisheries on the Oby seas, taking away the whole of the well-to-do population, and most of the poorer class. But even on their arrival at the fisheries, the Berezovians pass their time, not so much in fishing, butin the pursuit of trafiic, according to their usual custom. Though their vessels are provided with nets and all the fishing appurtenances, they are for the most part manned by Ostiaks, and the fish they catch compose the least part of their cargoes ; most of it, in fact, is obtained fr'om the Ostiak and Samoiede fishermen. These nomade tribes, knowing the season at which the Eussian fishing vessels arrive on the coast, come in their barges from all quarters, and barter their fish with the Russians for other commo- dities. OF SIBERIA. 183 The Ostiaks are as yet unacquainted with the use of money. Skins of animals and fiu' are the customary circulating media, and all agreements in bargains and trade are referred to that standard. A white squirrel skin fUellmJ represents the value of twenty assignat kopeks ; an ermine, forty kopeks ; a skin called piesak bialy (literally, white dog), three assignat rubles ; and a like rate extends fi'om the precious sables do^vn to the com- monest sorts of fur. In changing these commodities for Eussian articles, the Ostiak never makes his agreement for such or such a sum of money, but for so many of the above-named kinds of fur, every one of which has its fixed price. The inhabitants of Berezov are, upon the whole, extremely well off, and even might be called wealthy. With regard to the first necessaries of life, they need only stretch out their hand to have them. Providence having prepared for theii* use a plentiful supply ; and on every side are forests full of game, and rivers full of fish. It is requu-ed only to cast a net, or to set a seine, to procure abundance of food for several days. 184 REVI'.LATIONS The river Oby abounds in excellent fish, including sturgeon, sterlet, salmon, pike, nuksuni, selga, nelma, mietusi, and a variety of other species. The fish nelma and sterlet are more delicate than the sturgeon, and superior to it in flavour. The fish mietus is caught as large as a pound in weight, but they are inferior in delicacy. The selga is a small fish, but rich and delicious. The pike is least esteemed, and considered but poor eating. The Kussians scarcely touch it, but throw it as food for dogs, foxes, and their Ostiak servants. Yarious kinds of birds and wild fowl yield also ample supplies of food. Those found in greatest abundance are wild geese, wild ducks, woodcocks, blackcocks, partridges, and water-fowl. There are also a variety of snipes, but though foimd in the swamps in great number, nobody cares to look for them, as in the opinion of the inhabitants, they are too small to repay the trouble of shooting them, nor are they so easily reached as in hunting larger game. Hares exist in great numbers, but nobody hunts them. The Eussians have a religious OF SIBERIA. 185 aversion to eating them, as unclean ; and their skins are so cheap that they are con- sidered not worth transporting to Tobolsk, the place where they are tanned. The Ostiaks, on the other hand, reject no sort of food, but eat whatever can be swallowed and digested. In this respect they are not a whit more fastidious than dogs. They eat foxes, crows, bears, and even their entrails ; all meat, fresh or tainted, and stinking fish. They eat theii* food both raw and boded, but chiefly in a raw state. The district of Berezov abounds in water. Apart from the stupendous river Oby, at a distance of about one verst from the town, there exist several other rivers, as the Waygulka, the Little and the Great Osti- atska, the Kazienna, the Horodynka, and a number of minor streams not yet designated by any names. All these rivers fall into the Soswa, in the vicinity of the town, with the exception of the Horodynka, and each is large and deep enough to bear vessels of any size. 186 EEVELATIONS CHAPTEE XII. My ehild — Visits of guests — The Mzegorodtyow family — Parental authority — Ladies' dresses — Costumes peculiar to each class — Evils arising from change of class. The 22 nd of June is memorable to me as the birthday of my eldest daughter, Paulina. The first anniversary of this festival that I passed at Berezov, on awakening in the morning I fervently prayed to God for her ; and whilst my thoughts and feelings were thus hovering over my beloved child, my heart was ready to burst, and scalding tears gushed from my eyes. But mournful as the subject was, I could not tear my soul away OF SIBERIA. 187 from reminiscences wliich, though so harrow- ing, were so dear. Eccalling to my mind the whole of my daughter's life, I in vain tried to explain to myself why my Paulina, brought up as she had been under the eyes of affectionate parents, and amidst a cii'cle of relatives whom she tenderly loved, had far outstript the joyous age of youth, with all its buoyant freedom, and its playful gaiety, without in the least enjoying it ; though such incidents of the past, even at the most advanced age, are wont to recur fondly to our memories, ever shedding a glo^ving halo over our ex- istence. Although she had scarcely com- pleted ten years, yet she was, I might almost say, mature both in mind and heart. All her thoughts were grave, her sentiments fixed and deep, her judgment clear and pene- trating, so that amidst the most perplexing circumstances she was never at a loss to dis- criminate at the first glance between truth and falsehood. Often have I had occasion to put her childish understanding to the test by consulting her on most delicate questions, and of a nature most intricate and difficult. 188 REVELATIONS I found her solve them all with a penetration and correctness I could not but admii^e. Hardly emerged from childhood, with a delicate frame of body, and placed amidst most trying circumstances, God constituted her the sole guardian, with duties of a second mother, to a bereaved family. My Paulina, I am confident, did not shrink fi'om or falter in this great calling ; she fulfilled it at her own great cost, but without even reckoning it a sacrifice. I cannot but think that God, having so prematurely marked her with the emblem of the cross, has thereby destined my child for that important mission which she had in our present trials to accomplish. Full of such reflections, I gave them utterance in prayer, exclaiming, "0, merciful God ! if Thou dost take into accoimt the emotions of a mother's heart ; if our sufferings, our sorrows, our tears, and our prayers are beheld with commiseration by Thee ; if innocence and sacrifices have a claim on Thy protection, vouchsafe to listen to the mother's fervent supplication for the happiness of her child." Being so deeply moved, I avoided all com- OF SIBERIA. 189 pany. At such a moment the presence of any'bne would have been most unwelcome — an unholy inti-usion upon me. Contrary to my usual custom, I lay long in bed, pretending to sleep. At last, hearing that oiu" fellow-lodger had dressed and gone, I got up to follow my daily occupations. I had intended to spend the whole day by myself, in complete seclusion, communing only with my thoughts and feelings. This pui'pose, however, was completely frustrated; for, all my acquaintances at Berezov, as if they had mutually agreed upon an invasion, which perhaps was the case, came in the afternoon to visit me. First of all appeared Madame Ni^egorod- tyow, the rich old dowager, whose house I have akeady described. She Avas the mother of five sons and five daughters, the latter of whom were all bestowed in marriage on the principal government officials of the place. This lady was soon followed by her daughters and sons-in-law, all heads of different and most respected families. It was quite a levee ; and I was obliged to exert myself to do the honours of the house. 190 REVELATIONS Madame N^izegorodtyow was about fifty ; an d when young she must have been very hand- some. Even at this time she was very active, and in her conversation evinced a sound, clear judgment in everything. She was the acknow- ledged head of her house, even in its mer- cantile transactions, in the management of which she was assisted by her sons. These young men were far from being emancipated fi'om her control, though the property their father had left was estimated at one million rubles. I always derived much pleasm-e fi*om my intercourse with this old lady, for I found it unencumbered by any conventional forms, and her conversation was simple and sincere, and characterized by singular frankness. In giving me one day the story of her life, she said that she was married at fifteen. When brought to her mother-in-law's house, she was subjected to a most severe noviciate, was obliged to obey her implicitly, and do the work of the humblest menial. Imme- diately after her wedding, her mother-in-law sent her, when the cold was 40° below the freezing-point, to the river, to wash the linen ; OF SIBEEIA. 191 and though at her owii mother's house she had never been required to do any work, and was afraid that, in complying with such a demand, she might lose some of her limbs, she obeyed without a murmur, and happily sustained no injuiy. After such perfect obedience to her mother- in-law, and after midergoing this severe discipline diuing several years, Madame Xizegorodtyow succeeded at last in gaining the old lady's favom- ; and, from her reason- ing, I could perceive that she was fii-mly convinced that a patriarchal arbitrary power was the only effectual means for governing a family. Ha^dng been trained in that rigid way from her childhood, she had learnt not to abuse her power as her mother-in-law had done ; but she knew how to impress all the members of her house with such a respect for her authority, that her daughters-in-law, though they belonged to wealthy families and were mothers of several children, used to show so much deference to her will, that on going out on then* visits they would send messages to ask her what dress they should put on. But let it be understood that, in 1 92 EEVELATIOXS relating these particulars, I am far from wishing to represent them to the reader as facts of great weight, but merely as pictui-es of the degree of civilization existing in this locality. The whole toilette of my lady-^dsitors, con- sidering this was such an out-of-the-world place, was uncommonly costly. Their dresses consisted of velvet and rich silk ; and all the ornaments worn were precious stones. Every one of the ladies, however, wore those pecu- liar to her respective class. The wives of the government employes^ as belonging to the class of blahorodny, (nobles,) wore caps on their heads ; while those of merchants, though the richest, had only silk handkerchiefs for their head-di'ess. These were of various colours, and were tied in a peculiar fashion on the head. The inhabitants of Berezov are great sticklers for the distinctive marks of the different classes ; and what surprised me most was, that the inferior orders, as they are commonly termed, betray no desire, as in other parts, to infringe upon the privi- leged costumes belonging to the classes above Jk*- OF SIBERIA. 193 them. On the contrary, they constituted themselves guardians of such distinctions, decrying any who attempted to transgress these arbitrary lines of demarcation. Madame X set herself to oppose this feeling. The daughter of a merchant and a merchant's wife, she had, on the death of her husband, devoted all her energies to the accomplishment of female emancipation ; and on coming from Tobolsk to her family at Berezov, in order to render her appearance as striking as possible, she had brought witli her all sorts of caps and bonnets. A rumour of the commodities thus imported having got abroad, the citizens were excited to such a degree at the idea of any attempt at innova- tion, that they let her know immediately that should she dare to appear in public, dressed in her new apparel, she would be hooted ; and that even at church the sanctity of the place should not screen her from their indignation ; nor would they scruple to tear the odious gear fr'om her head and trample it under foot. Having received this timely warning, Madame X deemed it more prudent to pack up her elegant caps and VOL. I. K 194 EEVELATIONS bonnets, and without giving them even one day's airing at Berezov, retirni them to her milliner at Tobolsk. I highly approved of this strong attach- ment of the Berezovians to the station in which Providence had placed them. For my part, I find such attachment more consistent with the dignity of man ; for in striving to exalt oiu'selves liigher and higher, we do but betray contempt for the rank we are actually occupjdug, and acknowledge the one above us to be more respectable. For, how can it be otherwise than that the classes which are thus deemed to be superior to oiu- own, should despise us, as their inferiors, if we ourselves hold oui" position in such low estimation, and daily attest, by seeking to rise out of our own sphere, how much we admire and envy them ? I entertained my guests as well as I could, and Madame X was very useful on the occasion. Knowing the tastes of the com- pany, she arranged two tables for boston, and distributed packs of cards; and om* guests seemed perfectly gratified. Those who were too young or not clever enough to play boston, OF SIBERIA. 195 amused themselves at the kiu-ka (hen), another game of cards, more easy and simple. The inhabitants of Berezov^ both men and women, are passionately fond of cards, and the custom is often very convenient ; more especially when the company have nothing to talk about ; a game at cards then well supplies the place of conversation. K 2 196 REVELATIONS CHAPTEE XIII. Failing health — A Siberian merchant — Attempts at agriculture — Hostility to improvement — System of trade — Articles of barter — Character of the natives — The culinary art — Young bride's first dinner party — Female education — Facility of marriage — Landed property— Prospects of Berezov. One fine morning in June, Madame X went out shooting, and brought home a snipe, wliich she said she had herself killed. Her constant presence was by this time not so trying as at first, though still tii^esome enough. Solitude might have proved a solace to me in the seclusion in wliich I was placed, yet I could not but reproach myself for grudging our visitor a corner of our chamber. My health began to fail ; and as my feet swelled. OF SIBERIA. 197 I apprehended dropsy, a complaint wliich is hereditary in my family. Yet I thought placidly of my end, as, being far from my dear childi'en, they would be spared the misery of witnessing my sufferings. After dinner, Madame X , recruited from the fatigue of her shooting excursion, proposed that we should call on Madame Nizegorodtyow. Accordingly, we all three went, and met with a most cordial welcome. Various refreshments, including preserves, diy fruit, and cedar-nuts, were brought for us ; fol- lowed by coffee and tea, with delicious home- made cakes, such as could only be had in the affluent house of the Nizegorodtyows. The old dowager's husband had been a great merchant, and, as far as I could judge, a very enterprising man, and a friend to improve- ment. He yearly made joiuneys to the famous fail's at Irbit and Nijni Novogorod ; and there he had a good opportunity of becoming acquainted with all the advan- tages of modern industry and civilization. His object is said to have been to ameliorate the condition of his native town, and to effect 198 REYELATIONS such changes as seemed compatible with its climate. Possessing abimdant means, and what is more, a strong will, he attempted even to introduce agriculture, and for that purpose he procured the necessary imple- ments, and brought, at his own expense, people conversant with the tillage of land to commence operations. Up to this time, a field in the neighbourhood of Berezov is shown, cleared of forest, where he used to sow his crops. He was not a man to be at all discouraged by failures, which for the first few years were almost unavoidable ; but during some of the hotter summers he was enabled to rear crops, samples of which he found it worth while to send to St. Petersburg for the consideration of the government.* In the * This attempt to introduce agriculture at Berezov, 64 '^ northern latitude, says a great deal for the enter- prising spirit of the Berezovian merchant, although it completely failed. Owing to excessive cold, agricxilture in Western Siberia ceases at 60° latitude; the cold region embracing the territories between 67° and 57°. Within this circle, various shrubs, bear berries, and garden vegetables are cultivated with success in the OF SIBERIA. 199 course of his useful enterprises, however, he experienced the greatest impediments from the inhabitants themselves, whom he found opposed to what they styled innovations ; so much so, that they deliberately destroyed his crops, and when, to prevent his field from being ruined, the worthy merchant caused it to be enclosed with a strong wooden fence, he had the mortification to see the fence reduced to ashes by the hand of an incendiary. I was quite at a loss how to account for such hostility to the introduction of improvement more southern parts ; but corn, which in Europe yields a not unprofitable harvest in 65° north latitude, cannot be cultivated with profit in Siberia farther north than 55°, and in Kamtschatka, than 51". Below the latter degree, that is in the southern parts of Siberia, where the climate resembles that of Sweden and Northern Russia, corn yields a good harvest ; but even that part is too thinly inhabited to boast of any progress in agri- culture as a science. The intensity of cold is not, however, by any means, equal in the same latitudes throughout the whole continent, the severity of the climate increasing considerably with the extension of the territories eastward. This is an incontestable fact, but as yet the causes of the phenomenon have not been ascertained, and it is uncertain whether it be ascribable to a general law or to local circumstances. 200 REVELATIONS from which the inhabitants were to derive all the benefit, until our hostess informed me that a report got afloat, from the unaccount- able ignorance of some person, that the success of agricultui'e would bring ruin on the people, and that they would all be turned Jnto agricultural serfs, and forced to till the gi'ound. To what a degree agricultiu-e, by care and perseverance, could be carried in such a locality as Berezov, it is difficult to say. The long illness and subsequent death of its first promoter had put an end to the whole project. Previous to his death, the active and enlight- ened merchant was afflicted with lunacy. His widow attributed this solely to the annoyances he had met with fi'oni a portion of the inhabitants. However this might be, we saw abimdant evidence, wherever we turned our eyes, of Nizegorodtyow's appreci- ation of European industry and advancement. In liis house especially, everything bore testimony to it. The structure itself was commodious, displaying architectural propor- tions, and a great degree of taste. All the frirniture, plate, porcelain, and ornaments, OF SIBERIA. 201 were European ; and what was still more extraordinary, there was a chimney-grate in the house, though it had been blocked up after the death of its master. There were also a billiard-table, a cabinet containing an organ, and a number of pictures, which all sufficiently proved a love for the elegancies as well as the necessaries of life. Upon the whole, I observed there was no lack of the world's goods at Berezov, except among the Ostiaks, and no appearance of squalid poverty in the dwellings of the poorer class, as is too fi-equently the case amongst the lower orders elsewhere. In the houses even of the poorest, the table is furnished with good bread, fish, or meat ; and on the days of festivals with meat, puddings, and fish. Their daily drink is tea, though of inferior quality, and they treat their guests with sweetmeats. Their linen is fine and Avhite, not, as in other parts of Eussia, striped and coloured. They regularly have two, if not more, new suits of clothes ; one of good cloth, and one of fine stuff, lined with fur of fox or squirrel, and with sable collars. The principal source of wealth of the Bere- K 3 202 REVELATIONS zovians is derived from traffic in fur and fish with the Ostiaks. Any active and cunning speculator, with a capital of one hundred to two hundred assignat rubles at the first outset, is enabled in a few years to become a rich merchant, the profits fi-om the barter carried on with the Ostiaks being enormous. The Ostiaks being totally ignorant of money, and still more of the rate of exchange, readily take in exchange, for their own articles any commodities which they want, or which the Eussian merchants can supply them with. The latter, however, are in the habit of fix:ing the value of their own articles at their own price, before they exchange them for those brought by the Ostiaks to market. According to the old customary standard, a pud (forty pounds EngHsh) of rye-flour used to represent the value of one skin of a white piesak,*' and at that rate they are usually counted when exchanged against each other. But one pud of rye-flour at the market at Tobolsk does not cost more than * The piesak is a rein-deer cub, under one year old. The skins are called pieshki, and are highly prized in the Russian fur market. OF SIBERIA. 2Q3 fifty assignat kopeks, and fi-equently it can be had for half that sum. The cost of transport fi'om Tobolsk down to Berezov is not more than fifteen assignat kopeks per pud, as a number of vessels are yearly dis- patched empty from that town to the fisheries on the Oby Sea, and theii* owners are always anxious to take on board any cargo, even at a most trifling rate. The whole expense for a pud of floiu' may thus be estimated at from thirty to seventy assignat kopeks ; whereas a skin of a white piesak, which is bought for that same pud of flour from the Ostiak, is sold by the trader to a wholesale merchant of furs at Berezov, at the enormous price of three silver rubles.* The wholesale fru* merchants, of whom there are only three at Berezov, are in the habit of going "svith such fru*s to the fairs of * One hundred kopeks (copper coin) make one silver ruble (about three shillings and sevenpence English). But the skins being bought, from the Ostiaks and other Siberian tribes, with assignat currency, in which one hundred kopeks are equivalent to about tenpence, or a French franc, the immense profit derived by the Eussian fur dealers from such a barter becomes too obvious to need any further comment. 204 REVELATIONS Irbit or Nijiii Novogorod, and after ex- changing them there against articles of European manufacture, import the latter into Siberia for sale, or more properly barter.* The articles in request by the Ostiaks and the Samoiedes, and with which the Russian traders supply them, are flour, knives, axes, ii'on nails, tobacco, various coloured glass beads, small plates of brass, or other shining * Many other kinds of Siberian fur are exported to the same fairs, viz., squirrels, martin or sable, mink, chiachilla, kolinski, ermine, beaver, wolf and bear skins; and foxes, red, cross, silveiy, black, white, grey. Part is disposed of for gentlemen s and ladies' wear in Eussia, but a great quantity is exported to China, Persia, Turkey, Leipzic, and London. The trade, however, owing to the knavish practices of the Russian traders, has of late years much fallen off in the English market; and the Russian fur is so much dearer than that which can be procured from the Hudson Bay Company in North America, that Russians themselves prefer to buy fur, if they can, at the London market. This is so much the case, that the superb Russian pelisse, of the skia of the Arctic fox, shown at the late Exhibition in London, which was so fine and soft, that it seemed more like down than fur, and the value of which was set at £3,600, might be had in London, as one of the principal fur merchants stated, for less than half the price, and of quite as good a quality. OF SIBERIA. 205 metals for ornament, calicos, cloth, or the like stuifs in figured patterns, and of gaudy- colour. On these commodities the Eussian traders put what prices they like. Wherever they go, they are provided with a quantity of them, and they are, in fact, equivalent to money elsewhere. "Without such supplies, there would be an end to all trade in that part of the world. The profits from this barter are so great as to be incalculable ; and they have the advantage of being certain, as there is no competition. In order to secure success in trading with these nomade races, several things become indispensable ; namely, knowledge of theii- language, acquaintance with the usages and manners of the different tribes, with their periodical changes of residence, and, if possible, a personal acquaintance with the principal heads of their widely dispersed families. The entire commerce is foimded solely on good faith. Each family of the nomade, whether Ostiak or Samoiede, is in the habit of dealing with only one merchant, and fi'om him everything that is wanted, at 206 REVELATIONS all times, is taken on credit to the amount of so many skins. The good faith among these wild races is so great, and so deeply rooted, that a debtor will for no sum of money, how- ever great, sell to another what he had once promised to his creditor. There may indeed occur cases in which on account of an unpro- ductive season in hunting, or the death of the debtor, or of his family, the creditor has not been paid, or the payment postponed to the ensuing year ; but as long as any mem- ber of the family survives, and can take part in hunting and fishing, the creditor may be certain that some period or other his debt will be faithfully discharged. Another cause of the prosperity of the Berezovians is the simplicity of their manners ; and in this respect they seem to have solved more wisely than ourselves the question of social welfare. How often are our comforts or ease, and tranquility sacrificed to vanity, to prejudice, and to fashion ? How many superfiuous servants de we pay, not for convenience, but merely to keep our houses on a grand scale, coitcs- ponding to the station we believe oui'selves OF SIBERIA. 207 to occupy in society, or the position in wliich we wish our neighbours to see us. Far from ministering to our comforts, this multi- tude of menials is the cause of the greatest discomfort and trouble to us. From sheer idleness, they are disposed to all sorts of mischief ; and to keep them in any sort of order and subordination, we are compelled to augment, at a great expense, the number of overseers over them ; and these, again, diminish our income, and frequently prove a great source of annoyance. These, and the like expenses, owing to a much wiser appreciation of social comfort, are unknown at Berezov. The inhabitants are their own servants. No mistress of the house, be she ever so rich, or however high in rank, is ever ashamed of attending to the kitchen, and to the management of her household ; and is content, if, according to the extent of her house, she has one or two servants to aid her in the performance of her household duties. The culinary art consti- tutes the principal branch of education among the fair sex ; and far fi'om blushing when detected in this emplo}ment, they pride 208 REVELATIONS themselves on their proficiency in it as the highest of female accomplishments. I am far from wishing to offend any of my sex by these remarks. We are all ready to concede precedence to acquirements which attract by their agreeableness : but I beg to be permitted to say a few words in defence of those among us who are cooks. There is something in good motives by which the meanest art may be ennobled. Where is the thrifty housewife, and where the mother, who, in preparing dainty and wholesome dishes for the table, thinks only of her own enjoyment ? Is not the enjoyment, on the contrary, designed for her husband, for her children, or for the friends who happen to be partakers of it ; and to achieve such results is the most gratifying reward she can receive. Looking therefore on a kitchen as a very important department of domestic life, the Berezovians have associated its mysteries with the most momentous epoch of woman's life — her early education. It is a received custom that every young bride, on arriving at her husband's house, OF SIBERIA. 209 must invite guests to a dinner prepared by her own hands, and this repast is considered a test of the education she has received at her parents' house. Shame and disgrace are the consequence, should she be found deficient on such an occasion ; and shame also to the parents who did not attend to that essential branch of her education. Whereas, her success in gratifying her guests is taken as a proof, not only of the young woman's own excellence, but also as no small recommenda- tion of her whole family, among whom she must have had so good an example and received such excellent instruction. Livery servants riclily clad, and carriages or grooms, are not known at Berezov. Their absence, far fi'om being a di-awback on the pleasui-es of life, contributes to enhance them, and by not impoverishing families, enables them to live in afiluence and ease. How many families may be found in our own country, which, had they but the corn-age to cm-tail their unnecessary expenditm-e — wliicli, while keeping up a specious state of splendom-, proves ruinous to their fortunes, without in the least ministering to comfort — 210 REVELATIONS woiild soon discover a new source of gratifi- cation of which they can now form no idea ? Looking at the subject through the glasses of prejudice and habitual conventionalities, our sex would at fii'st, indeed, be but little satisfied at the prospect of such an order of things. They would consider themselves de- graded by performing any household services while in reality they would be gainers by the change. All we need is to get fi'om our early childhood accustomed to domestic occu- pations, and at the same time have our fancies freed from the impression that such di'udgeries were beneath us ; there is no doubt that the duties which now appear so irksome, and even repulsive, would then prove quite the reverse, becoming, as they ultimately would, the soiu'ce of a more lively interest to ourselves, than all the han- kering after artificial amusements, of which the programme of a young lady's early edu- cation is chiefly made up. But this laudable custom produces another most salutary effect on the whole com^se of a woman's life. Men, in these parts are not averse to matrimony, and women being OP SIBERIA. 211 generally esteemed, are much sought in mar- riage ; as men are convinced by taking a wife she will render herself really useful, and that the management of the house and all domestic comforts will be cared for by her. The service of a hireling, such as would render a bachelor's life less ii-ksome, can not at all be obtained here ; and the conse- quence is, that though daughters even of the richest parents do not bring their husbands any fortunes imless there is no male issue, an old maid is quite a rarity ; at least I never met one, with the exception of the infirm and the deformed. With the Berezovians, females are invaluable, and it is they who make their choice of a husband, instead, as with us, of the husband choosing the wife. I haA^e seen instances of poor giiis, daughters of parents of the humblest class, refusing government functionaries of the higher class, when the man was found to be stained by vices ; and this was considered so natural that nobody wondered at it. With us, on the contrary, no sooner is a position in society offered, than a yoimg, beautiful, and lovely female is thi'ust into the arms of 212 REVELATIONS a reprobate, be he ever so corrupt and bru- talized ; and very often by a compact secretly formed between the parents themselves, under the plausible, but wicked plea, that they are promoting her happiness. Apart fi'om this, there is still another cir- cumstance materially contributing to the well-being of the inhabitants of this part of the world, namely, that they are not desirous of acquiring any landed property ; there being, in fact, no opportunity for the acqui- sition of such possession. In our country, on the contrary, every active and thrifty man, as soon as he has succeeded by his in- dustry and good management in acquiring some capital, regularly laj^s it out in the purchase of land, to insui-e, as the phrase goes, a competence for his children, which means a livelihood without the necessity of labour. By that plan, the worthy man»is in the first instance losing at least one half of his life amid toil and anxieties before he is enabled to acquire such a property, while he commonly loses the other half in improving it; and thus dies without having derived any advantage for himself; and what is worse, OF SIBERIA. 213 leaves his successors the means of living in idleness. Nothing of the kind is done in this locality, where the earth is considered the common property of all : and every one possessing some amount of capital turns it as often as he can in trade, at the same time enjoying all the advantages and comforts which his accumulating income can procure. Even avarice, a vice innate in some nations, has here less scope than in other places. Commerce, as I have stated, is indeed fol- lowed by all ; but the amount of capital requisite is necessarily apportioned to the exceedingly small population. The only soiu'ces of wealth vouchsafed by Providence to the inhabitants, are fish and the skins of animals, and these articles are yearly dis- posed of at the iiiirs of Irbit or of Makariev ; but whatever amount of money merchants may realise for them, they cannot import more Em-opean manufactiu-es than is abso- lutely required for the consumption of the population. Consequently, the surplus of their capital cannot be employed for anything else than the comforts of life ; or, if anything be spared, it is laid out in the purchase of 214 REVELATIONS costly furniture, and expensive dresses or ornaments. All the comforts the inhabitants of Berezov enjoy, all their well-being, and even a degree of luxury and splendoui* which I saw in their houses, were solely o^ving to their exertions in commerce. Finally, I may add that the very facility with which competence can be obtained by industry, relieves the parents from any anxieties about the future lot of their children. Daughters, though without rich dowries, are sure of being married, and their husbands secure them subsistence; while sons need only moderately exert themselves to obtain affluence. As for the education of children, which in general entails so much expense in other countries, and which, even when finished, fails to answer any purpose, and in most cases continues to lie a dead capital without being available in practical life, it does not in the least trouble parents at Berezov. They can scarcely conceive what use there can be in filling the heads of children with so much learning, which they cannot turn to any account, and most of which they soon forget. OF SIBERIA. 215 They send their chilcli-en to school, merely that they may learn to read and write, and so be competent to keep accounts with the Ostiaks. In acquiring this instruction, they put their parents to no expense, as it is im- parted gratuitously at the Government School. By some even this degree of learning is deemed superfluous, as sums can be cast up just as well mechanically on their slitclioby ; and many therefore exempt their children from attending school. The rest of the edu- cation of the boys is practical ; each accom- panying his father in his business expeditions, and sharing his labour, as soon as his age enables him to engage in trade. As for girls, they learn from their mothers housekeeping, regularity, cleanliness, and cookery. If any one should combine with these attainments, proficiency of reading and of writing, it would be considered a great accomplishment, though it can be acquired by all young girls at the cheapest rate imaginable. The inhabitants of Berezov have not yet any exact notion of what is called a fixed fee or salary, payable for personal services. 216 REVELATIONS If any female is found in the place proficient enough in reading, and she happens to be disengaged from other occupations at home, the mothers agree among each other to send their daughters to her for instruction. Stipu- lation for any remuneration by the teacher forms no part of the transaction ; but the mothers of the pupils, to evince their grati- tude to her, are in the habit on the days of festivals, and on her own name's-day, of sending her presents, which, however, would, even in the course of the year, hardly amount in value to a few rubles. Eventually, how- ever, a permanent friendship is established between all the parties for mutual kindnesses and obligations, by which the instructress is never a loser. Amidst such primitive manners, the life of the Berezovians passes on easily and agreeably, without any great anxieties for the future, and without heavy labour, but at the same time not in idleness. And in that blissful state they probably will con- tinue, until the introduction of foreign manners shall have awakened around them imaginary wants. Then, perhaps, they will, OF SIBERIA. 217 when too late, sigh after what is termed among us the golden age of the past. At Berezov different classes are not sepa- rated from each other by insurmountable barriers. The Government employes live on a footing of perfect equality Avith merchants, citizens, and even Cossacks. They inter- marry, and associate with all. Wealth alone constitutes some distinct sections ; the fami- lies of the rich naturally preferring to associate with those who are rich ; wliile the poorer, on the other hand, seek the society of their equals in condition. As regards marriages, no distinction of class is observed ; and sons of the richest parents take wives, if it pleases them, from the daughters of the poorest. The whole population is in a most prosperous condition, and in consequence the town of Berezov is every year increasing in new buildings. Improvements and domestic comforts are keeping pace with the augmenta- tion of wealth and means. Immense forests fui'nish abundance of materials for the construction of edifices. In lime, mortar, and masons they are deficient, but these are supplied from Tobolsk. VOL. I. L 218 REVELATIONS CHAPTEE XIY. St. Peter's festival — Waygulka pic-nics — Sudden cold — Traces of a road — Govenunent magazines — An Ostiak encampment — Description of an Ostiak youi-ta — Smell peculiar to the Ostiaks — Their diet — Ostiak beggars. The 29tli of June was a great festival, the day of St. Peter, and the end of a fast of many weeks. For the &st time since our anival, we saw meat on our table. There is no slaughter-house in the whole town ; but prior to each great festival some of the richer citizens kill an ox in their house, and distribute the meat among their friends and neighbours. At other festivals the latter do the same, and then the compliment is returned. The festive fare of this day commenced with poultry, pie, and a dish of minced beef; such dishes being always symbolical of a grand fete. OP SIBERIA. 219 The weather having been cold, with heavy rain, and Josephine being indisposed, I stayed the whole day in doors. The public, however, nothing daunted by the inclemency of the weather, carried on their festivi- ties according to usual and immemorial custom. On St. Peter's day it is customary for the Berezovians to make an excursion on the banks of the river Waygulka, and there to assemble on an extensive meadow in front of the government magazines. Parties of gaily-attired men, women, and children, press forward from town in this direction, and on arriving at the spot, congregate in merry cu'cles and in different groups. Eatables and dainties are brought fr'om home by thrifty housewives, and the exercise of mutual civilities and hospitalities on the occasion becomes universal. The jDoorer classes regale themselves with scantier fare of cedar nuts. The meadow is the only public promenade in the environs, and is visited but once in the year. In general the Berezovians are not fond of promenades ; the musquitos, as I believe, desti'oying all L 2 220 REVELATIONS enjoyment. The good people, too, prefer boating to land excursions. The cold was so piercing on this day, that I was obliged to put on warmer clothing. It gradually grew more intense, blowing from the Frozen Ocean, and continuing in this quarter for several days. Musquitos dis- appeared; and the earth, which had been soaked with rain, again became dry. Still I resolved to take a walk, in order to see something of the neighboiu'hood. Josephine and Madame X offered to accompany me, and we sallied forth. This time no musquitos aimoyed us ; but the atmosphere was fiill of iiuiumerable small gnats and flies, more venomous even than musquitos. They flew straight into one's eyes, ears, and mouth, and their bites produced a painful swelling. Josephine could not bear them, and soon returned home ; but T could not prevail on Madame X to do the same. She re- mained with me, and was bent on the walk ; and as she enjoyed no walk when alone, for her sake I was obliged to keep her company in the dirty and muddy streets, leaping fi'om plank to plank, from stem to stem, OF SIBERIA. 221 the wooden substitutes here for a pave- ment. Having made the round of the principal streets and places, and happening to pass by the house of Madame X 's sister, my companion stepped in and remained there, leaving me at liberty to dispose of myself as I liked. I took the advantage of this mo- ment of freedom, and with hurried steps left the town and entered the adjacent forest. Here, after a short walk, I found, to my great astonishment, a narrow road, with traces of wheels, and this was the first road I had seen since I left Tobolsk. The sight, insignificant as under other circumstances it might have seemed, was to me one of the most endearing ones that I remember. Wonderful is the power of associations, but only they whom the force of cii'cumstances has thrown into a distant and strange country, and who remember the impression they received when seeing a national costume or national colours, or when hearing strains of a song once familiar to them in their native land, can form a concep- tion of what I at that moment felt. Thoughts of home, and all its endearments rushed upon 2^22 REVELATIONS my memory ; the past started up, as in a mirror before my mind, and my hcai*t clung fast to its shadow. Without a moment's reflection I followed the course of the nan'ow road as though clasping the hand of a dear and long unseen friend. But alas ! the illusion soon vanished, and the road terminated in fi'ont of the government magazines. Grievously dis- appointed, I remained fixed on the spot, with feelings like those experienced by a child riuming after a bubble wliich bui-sts before her eyes. I determined, nevertheless, to continue my walk ; but this time diverging from my pre- vious route, I proceeded along the banks of the river Waygulka. Before, however, I had proceeded very far, I came upon several Ostiak families, who had recently arrived at the place, and foimed a summer encampment. Women and children were sitting at a large blazing fire, baking their bread of rye-flour, a sort of kettle-bread, such as is sometimes baked with us in the ashes.* The men, I * The Polish term for it is wychopienieh , from the bread being baked quickly, eras it were caught out of the ashes. The bread so baked is by no means bad ; it OF SIBERIA. 223 found, had embarked on board the merchant vessels at Berezov, and gone to fish in the Oby gulf. Theii* families had settled but tem- porarily here, to be near the town, whence they could more easily prociure provisions for their subsistence. Small huts constructed of the bark of the birch, not imlike the booths of our wandering gipsies, but without either doors or windows are the summer dwellings of the Ostiaks. They are watched by dogs, their only guar- dians and protectors. Nor do they need even this protection, unless, perhaps, to repel the attack of a bear. Xo article of their property would tempt anybody in the world. Accustomed as we are to heaps of fiu-niture, and considering each of the articles indispen- sable, we can hardly conceive how little is here needed by man. A bucket, made of the bark of the bii'ch, for carrying water, a basin formed of the same rude material, a few wooden spoons, and some skins of the rein- deer, are all that is required to supply the wants of an Ostiak family. has a peculiar, and even superior flavour to that obtained by the usual baking process. I 224 REVELATIONS I did not tarry long on the river side. I was panting for a more extended view of nature and longed for solitude. I turned to the right, and entered the forest, to examine the trees and plants. They were all different from ours, insomuch that it seemed as though I had died in one world, and was now born anew in another. Everything around me was new and changed; nature, mankind, objects, usages, ideas; all presented an altered aspect. Had it not been for the feelings still burning deep in my bosom ; had it not been for the mirror of memory reflecting the past with colours as vivid as ever ; what could have borne testimony to my existence ? Here a question suggested itself to my mind. Whether the faculty, with which man is endowed, of preserving the memory of past impressions in the recesses of his soul, be a benefit to him or the contrary ? But as soon as the question arose, that very moment I suppressed it, as something blasphemous, with which I feared to taint my thoughts. The past, if at all dead, becomes, by means of our memory, so riveted to the soul as to be one with it, and is incapable of being torn OF SIBERIA. 225 from it. God, in his inscrutable wisdom, is leading his creatures to ends known only to Himself, and often on such paths as they would of themselves shrink fi'om. ]N^ever- theless, the results of this guidance prove in the end beneficial to us. Weak and blind as we are, let us submit and rely on Him. I wandered for some time alone in the forest ; but was afi-aid to penetrate too far into it, lest I should lose my way. I came within sight of an Ostiak youi'ta, much larger and more extensive than any I had seen before. The door stood ajar, as though inviting my notice, and I entered. The hut was constructed of large trunks of wood, half sunk in the earth and without windows. The roof was likewise covered with logs of wood, heaped with earth. In the middle of the roof was an opening for emitting smoke, and at the same time serving, in conjunction with the door, to admit the light of day. In one of the corners was a fire-place, and a fire was continually kept up for the double pui-- pose of cooking and keeping off musquitos. Over the fire, which was blazing fiercely, hung an ii'on kettle, with fish boiling in L 3 226 REVELATIONS water sprinkled with rye-flour, the customary dish of the Ostiaks, and which is called hurdiuk. They eat it without the addition of either salt or bread. At the ftu-thest side, by the wall, lay logs of wood, cut equally, and arranged regularly in the shape of sofas or benches. This rough fui'uiture was covered with rein-deer skins, and evidently served as seats and couches for the residents. Near the wall on the right stood a capacious chest, protected all over with a covering of tin, and beside it, two coffers of similar shapes, but smaller in size, containing probably all the wealth of the master of the house. With the exception of these articles, the domestic utensils were nearly the same as those described in the yourta of the poorer Ostiaks. In a comer stood a bucket made of the bark of the birch, a wooden basin, spoons, ladles, and some plates and tubs, likewise of wood. I found in the yourta a man and a gii'l ten years old, both in a nude state. The man perceiving a tranger coming in, di'ew over his shoulders, as quickly as he could, his malca;* but the * The malca is a sliii't of rein-deer skin, worn by the Ostiaks inside out. OF SIBERIA. 227 gM made not the slightest attempt to arrange her toilet. I could take but a hasty survey of the interior of the miserable hut, as the intolerable and suffocating stench made me soon retreat into the open aii\ The Ostiaks smell atrociously, and this with a smell peculiar to them. After staying in a house for awhile, the rank effluvium an Ostiak leaves behind, despite airing and fimiigation, is sure to remain for a whole day. His dress of rein-deer skin, prepared by a certain pro- cess with the fat of the fish, which even in its freshest state is very unpleasant, together with his rancid food and the constant smoke in which he is enveloped day and night, form such a combination of odours as is sufficient to infect the whole atmosphere aroimd him. The abominations wliich he employed as his food, sm'pass all description. 'Not to mention raw fish, which is considered a great dainty by all the people of that region, they eat raw meat, the blood and the entrails of any animal, whether alive or dead, and fish in a putrid state. They devour also foxes, crows, magpies and squirrels. The Ostiak settlers in the vicinity of 228 REVELATIONS Berezov, when pressed by hunger, come into the town with a lukosnek* in their hand, or with a kettle hanging on a stick from their shoulders, and beg at the houses of the Eussians. The women of Berezov, from whose threshold a poor person is never sent away without relief, but by whom the Ostiaks are regarded as the lowest order of mankind, give the scraps remaining from yesterday's meal, mouldy bits of bread, handfiils of flour, entrails of animals and all sorts of offal, with dish-water or water in which ducks and fish have been washed, and all these disgusting things are equally acceptable to the himgry Ostiak. After he has collected a sufficient budget, he commonly takes his seat in the street, and witiiin sight of the public greedily devours the mess. I have sometimes happened to pass rather close to some of these poor creatures, and the smell of the feast has been perfectly poisonous. My only resource was to stop my nose with my hand, and run away as fast as I could. * The lukosnek is a kind of wicker hamper, or basket, made of the bark of the birch. OF SIBERIA. 229 Here I cannot help saying, that the Bere- zovians in general, of Eussian extraction, and even the richest not excepted, are by no means fastidious in reference to smell, as if suffering under a complete obtuseness of the olfactory organ ; for however careful they may be in keeping theii* dwellings, and especially their upper apartments, aiiy and clean, they do not extend the same care to their kitchens. They are not particular in clearing the meal of yesterday from the saucepans and other cooking utensils, but put in fresh meat on the remains, and so they go on from day to day ; and if remonstrated with on this point, they say only that it is just the same, and quite as clean. Nor do they evince any aversion to eating the rankest dishes, such as have become quite unbearable by their corruption and smell, and call them only hwasnoy (soiu'). 230 EEVELATIONS CHAPTEE XV. Terrific storm — Thoughts of Home — A Siberian Soiree — Sumptuous supper — The Stirrup Cup. Among such people, and in this solitary place, I watched eagerly for some intelligence from my loved and distant home, but post after post arrived, and brought me only dis- appointment. Was it that no echo could reach me any more from the world of my soul ? Perhaps those whom I so tenderly loved, did not even know in what part of the world I existed. Perhaps they know not whither to waft to me their regrets and sighs. I let no post quit without writing to them, but could not be certain whether a single word of mine would ever reach their hands. But to wait OF SIBERIA. 231 and to liope were not without a solace amid the agony of my longings. As July opened, the air again grew very sultry. And what deluges of rain came down ! Never in any country have I seen such tre- mendous ton-ents. The rain poured down like a water-spout, and without intermission. The lightning and thunder were terrific, and the deep-resounding explosions inspired an intense feeling of awe. But here all is extreme : extreme heat and extreme cold ; extreme darkness, and extremes of light ; and so even rain and thunder and lightning. While the storms raged, the whole family of our host assembled in our drawing-room, because in it were the images of their house- hold saints. Before these they ranged lighted tapers, and addressed the saints with bows and supplications. Our host's daughter, a yoimg girl of foui'teen, read the Gospel ; the aged father communed in his mind, and prayed in silence ; his wife from time to time looked through the window to see whether the neighbom-ing edifices were not blazing in fire. Her face was impressed with solicitude, not unmixed with apprehension ; 232 REVELATIONS and at every clap of thunder, the heads of all were bowed down to the ground. It was evident that they trembled for the life which was dear to them ; and as fearing to lose what they most prized. Alas ! why did this feeling not agitate me? At these awful moments, I could only feel that if the sun and the stars were to be Avi'enched fi'om their places and the whole wonderful fii'mament dislocated, it would scarcely rouse me fi'om my apathy and torpor. Could even this revolution of the whole of nature in any way affect me ? Did the world in wliich I still existed belong to me ? or had I anything to do with it ? No, save the soothing hope of, perhaps, pressing my dear children once more to my breast, save that sole, fondly- cherished hope, which it pleased God in His great mercy to infuse into my heart, I had nothing to live for. Oh ! could I have been but certain that my soul, when emancipated from the bonds of this body, would soar on its well-known track to those who are so dear ; could I but be sure that it would share in common with them the same emotions, reveal itself by the OF SIBERIA. 233 same aspirations, ward off from them all dangers, fortify them in the struggles of life, or comfort them in adversity — the prospect of death would have been indeed welcome to me. It would then have proved but a guiding star to Hope, now alone illumining with her soft light the dark path of my cheer- less existence. ! Heavenly Father ! pardon thy child's thought, and be it far fi'om any intent of offending thy Divine Majesty. The thimders gradually hushed ; lightning no longer rent the heavens ; the black clouds were swept away, although they still hung darkly over the lower part of the horizon ; and distant thunders, rolling deep, still awakened dread, bu.t grew fainter and fainter with every clap. Taking advantage of the first moments after the tremendous rain had ceased, I went out for a walk. "Water was running fr'om the hills in torrents and streamed down fr^om the roofs of houses in thick crystal ropes ; while trees and plants drooped their heads under the big drojDS, as if beneath a weight of tears. Leaping from stem to stem, and ft-om one plank on to another, I traversed the town and some of 234 REVELATIONS its cnvii'ons; and, after gratifying my ciuiosity, returned home wet through. We received an invitation from the du^ector of the police (Sprawnik), to an evening party at his house, on the occasion, as we after- wards learned, of his wife's name's-day. "We had to thank Madame X , who was our mentor here, that we did not commit a breach of etiquette in the matter. Our invi- tation came early in the morning, which we thought strange ; but she informed us, that the first note of invitation meant nothing, but was merely intended as an announce- ment, to enable the guest to be prepared for the occasion. Between six and seven o'clock another messenger arrived, called the " Zazywatz," or reminder ; and he delivered us another more formal invitation. We went at ten o'clock, and found a numerous com- pany. The male portion amused themselves in the first suite of rooms, by playing boston, or partaking of refreshments ; the ladies sat in the drawing-room, richly attired in dresses of most expensive stuff's, decorated with gold chains, necldaces, and brooches of precious stones and Oriental pearls. The only dif- OF SIBERIA. 235 ference observable was in their head-dresses, by which the wives of the functionaries or nobles (blahorody) could be distinguished from those of the citizens. The fii'st wore caps, the latter colom-ed silk kerchiefs, tied in a manner to make the head appear in the shape of a melon. But even the head -gear was beginning, I could observe, to lose its original simplicity, as the ends of the kerchiefs tied on the top of the head, were trimmed with blond, and adjusted with pins of pre- cious stones by way of supporting their weight; but which, evidently, were but pretensions on the part of some of the young women, to assimilate their head-dresses as near as possible to those worn by the ladies of the noble class. The maidens occupied seats in the most conspicuous part \>f the drawing-room, under the images of the Saints. This is considered a place of honour, and is never forgotten by the hostess ; and the highest person in rank, or whom she wishes to honour most in her house, is always led to it. Here I was struck with a custom which is quite at variance with our own manners. At 236 REVELATIONS Berezov, unmarried women, even the young- est giiis have the fii-st honours paid them at parties. To them tea, cakes, and sweetmeats are offered fii'st, and then they arc first pre- sented to the rest of the company, and have the highest seats assigned to them. It is rather odd to see a girl not yet in her teens taking precedence of eklerly mothers, and quite confident it belongs to her as a right. Before a sofa stood a table covered with all sorts of confectionary, preserves, dried fruit, and cedar nuts, and every now and then the hostess went round to present some of these to the ladies. Each of the ncAv-comers, on her entrance had, by Avay of welcome, a plate of sweetmeats presented to her ; and it was regularly fi-om her that the new round commenced. Gentlemen seemed to take nO delight in these delicacies, but made up for their abstinence in tliis respect by partaking of the wine and liquors. When we arrived, it appeared that nearly all the guests were assembled, for the ser- vants commenced carrying round their coffee, and afterwards tea. Coffee is not used at Berezov except on extraordinary occasions, and OF SIBERIA. 237 the inhabitants scarcely know how to prepare iti Usually it is boiled on the preceding day and left through the night to clear ; then it is poiu-ed into the coffee lu-n, and boiled again. Wlien handed round, the cups are filled to the very brim, and it is customary to pour in a little raw, cold cream, as we are wont to do with tea. Though the coffee was but indifferent, the cakes were extremely good, and indeed the Berezovian women excel in theii* pastry. They are celebrated for their sweet biscuits, crumpets, muffins, waffle, almond cakes, and a variety of Frencli confectionary. They present these dainties, however, only to ladies; gentlemen are excluded from partaking of them, as well as the other sweetmeats, and are restricted to the drinking part of tlie en- tertainment. Through the manoeuvring of Madame X , a boston table was made up, and another portion of the company sat down to the easier game of hen. They who disdained to take part in either the one game or the other, amused themselves with cracldng cedar nuts. 238 REVELATIONS The Berezovian women take no pleasure in conversation. The whole stock of their conversational powers is limited to a few formal interrogations about the health of the members of their families, on which occasion every one of the members must be sj)ecified by both his Christian and sm^name. With these simple inquiries their conversation ter- minates. The answer is equally simple and brief, namely, " Slawa Bohu," (Glory be to God), and thus the formality is ended. At midnight we wished to take leave; but our amiable hostess would not hear of it. She would not let us go before supper, and gave orders that it should be instantly served. At about two o'clock the supper came, and consisted of an immense variety of dishes, amounting, without exaggeration, to full a hundred. And as every fete at Berezov offers opportunities for a similar display of eatables, I will, to gratify the curiosity of gourmands, give a description of at least some of them. Every grand feast commences withapirog, a raised cake, usually with a French crust. On the occasion of name's-day festivals, this figures on the table as one of the standing OF SIBERIA. 239 dishes. Ko grand fete takes place without it. The whole supper is a la fourchette. Everybody takes what he likes best, and eats where and with whom he pleases. Due honour being done to the pirog, the first entry came in, and the whole table was entirely covered with it. It would be no small task to enumerate the variety of dishes. There were ducks, smoked and fresh — geese fresh and pickled, and stuffed with various ingredients, and set round with jellies ; tongues of oxen and reindeer, prepared in a pecidiar manner ; heads and heels of the same animals, and coloured jellies, ornameU' ted on the top, with a variety of neat, shining embellishments, and proudly reposing on layers of lemon peel, geranium leaves, and flowers. Little satisfied with the provisions which the place could afi'ord, the lady in whose honour the day was celebrated, had procured supplies from distant parts of the country ; and among these figui-ed a splendid ham, and a roast pig, cold, but both imported from Tobolsk. The first entree having been removed, the second was served. This was not so abun- 240 REVELATIONS dant as the first, and consisted chiefly of cutlets and game, with but one sweet, in which the taste of onion and palm predominated. As for sauces, this part of the culinary art might be declared to be still in its infancy at Berezov. The third entree was made up wholly of roast meat, and it would be difficult to des- cribe all the dishes, so great was their variety. Every kind of game that the woods and forest contained, was brought on the table, and it almost groaned beneath the heap of geese, ducks, woodcocks, partridges, and various species of snipes. Amidst this grand array, roast veal occupied the place of honour. Subsequently to this course, rice pudding was ushered in, with a white sauce poured over it. This is the only one of our puddings known to the Berezovians, and at no enter- tainment is it forgotten. These principal courses were succeeded by sweet jellies, clear and transparent, and orna- mentally served up. They would have been unexceptionally good, only for the quantity of wine and spices in them, which rendered OF SIBERIA. 241 them, rather too pungent for the palate. At last several sorts of cakes were brought in, and with these the fete ended. In looking on such a quantity of food, I could not but murmur to myself, " c'est une mer a boii-e." It seemed impossible that so much could be at once consumed by a com- pany of forty or fifty persons ; but to my great astonishment, I observed that the dishes, which appeared first at the ladies' table, being afterwards handed to that of the gentlemen, all retiu^ned empty. After the last course, the lady of the house entered the room, carrying a tray, with a bottle and glasses, such as are used for champagne. She went round to every one of the guests, beginning with the ladies, and requested them to drmk a glass. This could not, of course, be declined, as it was drunk to the health of the hostess. Even the ladies were obliged, more or less, to drink. The liquor was a home-made wine, which every lady at Berezov knows how to prepare. It was of a red colour, effervescent, and frothy, very much like champagne mousseux. It can be made of VOL. I. M 242 REVELATIONS raspberries or of currants, with the addition of sugar and French brandy ; and is sweet and agreeable to the taste. It goes by the name of apogare. This was the stirrup-cup, the watchword to depart. After drinking it, every one ex- pressed his thanks to the hostess for her hos- pitality, and without a moment's delay left the house. On going out all at once, we formed quite a crowd in the street, but as we proceeded, we gradually diminished in number, the com- pany dispersing in different directions. All accelerated their steps homewards, and though highly delighted at the entertain- inent, everybody, including the most vivacious, seemed to be thoroughly wearied, and at so late an hour to long for rest. OF SIBERIA. 243 CHAPTEE XVI. Marriage ceremony — Death of Colonel Krzyanowski — News from home — Paulina's letter — Impressions during a walk. One morning we had a plateful of hniazniki (princelings), considered a great treat at that period of the season. They are a kind of berry, peculiar to this place, and quite un- known in our country. They grow on a high, hard stalk, like raspberries, but nearer the ground. When blooming, theii* blossom is of the coloiu- of a rose. Indeed, they re- semble raspberries both in colour and shape, only that they are browner and less suc- culent. Their juice, though somewhat pun- gent, is by no means disagreeable. They have a sweet, pine-apple scent, and make most delicious preserves. The woods near M 2 244 REVELATIONS Berezov teem with these berries ; but though plentiful they cannot be easily got, as nobody is willing for the sake of a few kopeks, to expose himself to the necessity of a fierce fight with the musquitos. There is another berry, called the morozJca^ in shape not unlike our wild mulberry, and growing, like the kniazniki, on a stalk, though it is a much higher one. This berrj^ is of an orange colour, deepening into a red on the side exposed to the sun. It is much harder and less juicy than the kniaznild and on that account is less esteemed. A few raspberries may also be found here ; but being rather rare, the people think them not worth the trouble of seeking. They attach more value to the currants, though they are exceedingly sour, and their kernel hard and large. But in a place like this, Avhere neither vegetables nor fruit can grow, every berry, be it ever so poor, is made a great deal of. Hearing that a wedding was to take place in the town, we were curious to witness the ceremony ; and seizing time by the forelock, went early to church, to be there before the OP SIBERIA. 245 yoiing bride arrived. It is customary here to go to church on foot, but on the present occasion the bride departed from time- honoured fashion, and went in a telega — a common Eussian cart— adorned, however, with a rich carpet, which was spread over it, yet the whole aspect of the vohicle pre- sented the appearance of a frnieral bier, rather than the car of the God of Hymen. The bridegroom, whom we found waiting in the chui-ch, went to meet his betrothed at the door, where they repeatedly kissed one another. After this they were both led to tho altar, prepared for the occasion in the middle of the chui'ch. Here the priest read, and the diak (deacon) sung about the re- ciprocal duties of the married. There were no vows, but simply an exchange of offerings by the bride and the bridegroom. After this, crowns were placed on their heads, and, thus adorned, they were led thi*ee times round the altar. This done, the ceremony terminated in the wedded couple again saluting each other with a kiss. On my return fr-om chiu'ch, I received the moiu'nful news of the demise of Colonel 246 REVELATIONS Krzyzanowski, which took place on the 1st of July. I felt sore at heart ; but, upon re- flection, found my grief was as inopportune as it was useless. Why mourn over a man who had outlived the best part of himself ? What had remained to him to render life de- sirable ? Nothing— absolutely nothing! Even the memory of the past, the sole treasure of the unfortunate, afforded no solace to him in his adversity. Krzyzanowski had long since ceased to live. His bodily frame, once tenanted by so ardent a soul, had indeed, as far as the ordinary law of nature allowed, retained its vitality, but it did not represent himself. Peace be to his ashes ! everlasting honour to his name ! But notwithstanding these reflections, I could not avoid feeling mournful ; grief hung heavily over me, and would not quit me. I longed for repose, for solitude, but could not obtain it. Solitude fortifies the soul as repose recruits the failing strength of the body. In oui' own country, when we are in grief, night at least can take us under its protection, throwing its dark mantle over us ; but here, they who suffer are bereft of this OP SIBERIA. 247 trusty friend. Day, unceasing day, is, whether they would weep or laugh, con- stantly staring them in the face. The heart closes before this impassive witness, who, devoid of all sympathy, intrudes with his bright gaze on the privacy alike of our tears and oui' joys.* In the midst of this grief, the post arrived and brought me letters, amongst wliich I instantly recogni2;ed the writing of my dear Paulina. What emotion did it awaken within me ! a dizziness seized my head, and several minutes elapsed ere I dared to touch the * These reflections of our authoress remind us of a malignant device of the Grand-Duke Constantine, the elder brother of the Czar's, which he practised on some of his victims at "Warsaw, confined in the dimgeons of the Carmelite Convent. In addition to the ordinary strong guard at this prison, some of tlie Cossacks of his body guard, with particularly bright eyes and savage countenances, were placed with the prisoners in their cells, to stare at them continually. One of my friends, whose life is preserved, had the misfortune, while thus confined, to have such a companion sitting day and night by his side, looking at him without intermission, and the agony he endiu'ed, as he told me, was inde- scribable. So inventive is tyi-anny in the contrivance of torture ! — Ed. 248 REVELATIONS long-covetcd letter. I had most solemnly vowed, that during my absence from home, I would bear patiently whatever might happen to me, and would not pray to God for anything for myself, but only for the health and welfare of my dear children. Paulina's letter, therefore, would contain for me a sentence of life or death. How hesitatingly I broke the seal ! They were all living, thanks be to Thee, God ! But how was it that my heart did not burst with joy whilst I was reading the letter of my poor beloved Paulina ? — treasuring up every word in which she so forcibly described her own sufferings, the intensity of her love, and the sacrifice which she was ready to make for me. She wished — she longed to join me here. Could I accept such an offer ? or, ought she, actuated by so noble a motive, to be refused this solace ? Could I push away a delightful child, when, tossed about and struggling amidst the stormy billows of life, she extended her arms towards me, praying for a refuge on her mother's bosom ? Heavenly Father ! to thee I look to dii-ect me what to do ! OP SIBERIA. 249 Other letters arrived witli Paulina's, strongly dissuading me from compljdng with her request, but the words of my child were still bui'ning in my heart. '^ I can hardly comprehend," she wrote, '' all that is going on here, or what we do and what we ought to do, A crowd of con- flicting interests and occuiTcnces, changes of place, and variety of opinions and counsels, have completely confused my poor head, and I can scarcely arrange my ideas. 0, my dearest mother, what a heavy part has God assigned me on the earth ! But I will not murmiu', nor will I complain of the grievous weight, which surpasses my comprehension, and is beyond my strength. It has pleased God to impose this burden upon me, and I accept it. One wish only I breathe to Him, and that is my constant prayer that His protecting hand may at all times be extended over all our family, and that I may be one day allowed to unite with you. I call God to witness, how ardently I wish for the happiness of all my relatives, and that I am ready to devote to them all my thoughts, as I am even now doing. Yet, to strengthen M 3 250 REVELATIONS my fortitude, I indulge the hope that I may he one day permitted to join you. With what inexpressible delight, with what ecstasy do I contemplate this prospect ! Then, my dearest mother, I shall on your bosom breathe freely, after all my troubles and anxieties. But the moments in which I can di^eam of this happiness are imfortunately few ; other thoughts, and my daily duties, allow me no leisure. And then I am haunted by the hoiTible thought that I may not be able to accomplish my project, but be doomed to be for ever deprived of you. Oh, how unfortu- nate should I be, were I bereft of that only consolation on earth ! '* Write me, dearest mother, that it is your wish that I should join you, and be assured that I am incapable of making a bad use of your permission. For even if all obstacles to my departiu"e should be removed, and I should see that the well-being of my dear relatives required my presence here, I would then, of myself, willingly renounce the under- taking ; but, for the present, should the plan be found feasible, your consent to it is indispensable, both to the peace of my mind OF SIBERIA. 251 and our common action, by which alone my life is sustained. " Can you imagine, mother, you who are my only felicity, that there exist people here, who say that I should be committing the greatest folly if I were to go, and that you would yourself consider such a step a piece of madness ? Beloved mother ! I am sure this could never be so. Such a speech can pro- ceed only from people who have no conception of the affection and love we bear towards each other. They do not know how much you love me, and I love you. " They say that you will never permit my youth to be buried at Berezov. But you must know, dearest mother, how feeble have ever been the bonds that imited me with the world here, and how all here are strangers to me, and I to them ; and so even now I can say I live here comfortless, unconsoled, but with the hope that I may be enabled soon to depart hence, and exchange this part of the world, which is but a desert to me, for another desert, but which, when with you, will prove a world to me. 0, my beloved mother! wherever destiny may cast us, if we only are 252 REVELATIONS together, there will be a world — there a dear native land to us. " Do not, however, suppose, dearest mother, that in thinking of myself I am immindful of my duties towards others, or forgetful of your own peace of mind and tranquillity. I am not ignorant that it is not I only who am bereaved here. You know how much I feel for the happiness of my relations ; and if for them a sacrifice on my part were required, were it even the renunciation of the hope of ever joinmg you, I should not for a moment hesitate, but submit to so imperative a call upon me — submit to it, perhaps, with a pang as to a great hardship, but yet always willingly, as far as my strength would per- mit. Three months have elapsed since we were informed of what was to be om* own destination, and yet my thoughts continue so confased, that I knew not what account to give you of our projects, or what arrange- ments we are to make with the children." After reading my daughter's letter, and perusing the letters of my fiiends, my mind was absorbed by the most conflicting emo- OP SIBERIA, 253 tions. Tliouglits the most opposite, the most harassing, tore my heart with every breath, yet left me quite perplexed as to what course I should take. On the one side, when my Paulina's image presented itself before me — when I fancied my dear child, young as she ^yas, struggling amidst such adverse circum- stances, and opposed by a weight of misfor- tune far beyond her strength, then regardless of the distance, and of the almost insur- mountable obstacles in her way, and actuated solely by the instiacts of my heart, I stretched out my arms to press her again and again to my bosom ; I felt that 1 could shield her tender age by my protection, and guard her young life from the blasts of adversity. But, on the other hand, when I considered the immensity of distance she would have to travel, and reflected on a multitude of inci- dents that miglit occm* during so long a journey, I was frightened at the very thought, and doubted whether my o^^^l heart wos not misguiding me. I remembered, too, the rest of my children, and reflected on their help- less situation. In the state of complete bereavement in which they were deprived of 254 REVELATIONS their parents and their patrimonial estate, and separated from their natural protectors, they had but Paulina to depend upon — her heart and her devotedness. Feeble and in- sufficient as that support was, in such trying circumstances, it was still all they had. Could I, by sanctioning Paulina's project, deprive them of this ? No, no ! None knew so well as myself how dispro- portioned was the energy of her mind to the constitutional delicacy of her frame. Natures of this kind are more easily broken than bent. I was afraid that my refusal to comply with her request might be attended with fatal consequences. Pondering on arguments so conflicting, I began almost to despair. I had not even power to hold up my head, and it sunk help- lessly on the pillow. A stupor such as I had never before experienced quite overpowered me, and thus I remained for several hours. Gradually, however, the violence of my first emotions made way for impressions less pain- ful. I remembered that the Father of the fatherless watched over my children ; and had He not hitherto protected them with his OF SIBERIA, 255 Almighty hand, better than I could do with my utmost solicitude ? They who have never been in situations similar to mine, will hardly understand the degree of consolation 1 received from reli- gious resignation. I knelt down and raised my soul to God, and as I prayed I grew more calm. Even my letters, though con- taining some things that harrowed up my soul, afforded me, in others, a great measure of comfort. I learnt that my infirm and bed-ridden mother, for a long time the object of my greatest anxiety, had recovered from her lingering illness, and with the resignation of a true Chiistian, outlived the storms which had gathered with so much fury over our domestic hearth for the destruction of our family. I was informed that my children were not only in the enjoyment of health, but that the very disasters which had bereft them of parental protection, so necessary at theii' age, and destroyed all their prospects of the future, had only resulted in bringing their understanding to an early maturity ; insomuch that my heart throbbed with a 256 REVELATIONS mother's pride when I read the account of theu' conduct. To God alone is known what will be their destiny ! Towards evening I took a walk with Jose- phine. A strong gale of wind had cleared the atmosphere of musquitos, flies, and gnats; and, though still suffering from violent headache, I felt refreshed. This was the first promenade I had had at Berezov without being either troubled by insects or inter- rupted by intruders. Silence, solitude, the calm of the twilight hour, and the freslmess of the air contributed to soothe and cheer me. The pleasing aspect of natui'c, whose genial influence I had for some time been prevented from fully and fr-eely enjoying, tended in a great degree to revive in my bosom reliance on God, and trust in His infinite bounty — impressing me with a beHef that I was not yet His disinherited child. The very fact that my children were allowed to commu- nicate with me and I with them, though at such a distance, and the glimpse of hope that flashed thi'ough my mind — uncertain and faint, yet arising spontaneously — that God might yet enable me to press at least one of OF SIBERIA. 257 my cliildi'cn to my bosom, thi-ew light on the overcast horizon, and all the objects around, houses, woods, and water, appeared gladdened and cheerful. Loitermg along the river side we proceeded as far as the "Waygulka. So delightful and snug did I find that secluded place, that I was quite sorry to leave it. Poor Josephine, who had received no news from home, was, however, too depressed to enjoy it. It is commonly said that the unhappy are apt to feel more deeply for the sufferings of others than those who are in fortunate cii'cum- stances. I have no wish to dispute the pro- position, but I may observe that my own personal experience does not confii-m it, as, in comparison with my own, the misfortunes of all other people seem light and insig- nificant. I am, however, ready to admit, that to be able to enter fully into the state of mind of others, we must ourselves have first passed tlu^ough many trials. We lingered in our pleasant retreat as long as the lateness of the hour allowed, but we were at last obliged to wend our way home. 258 REVELATIONS We had scarcely crossed the threshold, when we came upon Madame X , who com- menced upbraiding us severely for not having taken her with us ; and as if to add to our distraction, the whole house seemed in an uproar. The landlady was scolding her children, the children were crying, and a smell of stale meat at once destroyed all the agreeable impressions we had derived from our walk. I bade Madame X good night, and hastily retired, seeking on my pillow quietness and seclusion. This night we had the fii'st frost. OF SIBERIA. 259 CHAPTEE XVII. Early Autumn — "Water excursion — Sand-banks — High tides — Autumnal aspect of Bcrezov — Solitary walk in the forest — Shamanic worshippers of larch-trees — Account of a woman who lost her way in the forest. With the opening of August, the environs of Berezov assumed an autumnal air. Frost already nipped the more delicate plants, the leaves of trees were seared and yellow, and fell on the ground with the least breath of wind ; the waters shrunk in volume, and the grass shrivelled. In a word, it was far ad- vanced in autumn. It is, perhaps, as well, that summer here leaves not much to regret. It was now much colder, especially at night ; but the air was more bracing. The nights were also longer. Autumn brought one welcome gift — the 260 EEVELATIONS goluhica* a berry, exactly like our own blackberry, the szernice^-\ only somewliat larger. It is found in abundance in the woods. "We had a dish of these berries with cream, and foimd their flavour very pleasant. Madame X arranged a water excur- sion on the Soswa, and being fond of water and boating, I gladly accepted her invitation to accompany the expedition. The lady of the director of the police promised to be one of the party. After oui- preparations were completed, and we were on the point of starting, we found that, in spite of all Madame X 's exer- tions, no man could be secured either to steer or to row ; but not in the least discouraged by this difficulty— for she never flinched from the execution of a plan on which she had fixed her mind—Madame X decided to dispense entu-ely with the male sex, and ens-ao-ed the services of two stout women as substitutes. I must confess for myself that * The goluUca is derived from the Slavonic, goUih, a dove, by which term, in ^wpular language, everything lovely and precious is designated. I French mirtelles. OF SIBERIA. 261 I should have preferred the assistance of a single man, even if he had been an Ostiak ; but I would not throw cold water on the party, and I let things take their course. Madame X 's servant, as the most ex- perienced amongst us, was placed at the helm, while that lady and myself, with another woman, took the oars. The weather was calm, and we crossed the river in safety, and disembarked on the opposite bank, on a dry, sandy spot, covered with thin grass and willows. On landing we lighted a large fire, and as we had not forgotten to bring with us a samovar^ that indispensable companion of the Berezovians on every occasion, we took it fi'om oiu' boat, filled it with water, and waited till it ^^as boiling on the glowing embers. Up to that moment, eveiything appeared favoui-able ; but in a few minutes a swarm of musquitos alighted like a thick cloud on the place, attacking us with the greatest fury. Having exhausted every means of defence, I seated myself on the groimd, drew my feet imder me, and threw my handker- chief over my head ; but though somewhat protected, the position was neither convenient 2G2 REVELATIONS nor pleasant, and I looked with impatience for our pic-nic to end. Tea having at last been prepared, we hastily partook of it, when the things were again packed up, and we set off homeward. Arrived in the middle of the river, we found ourselves entirely freed from the mus- quitos, and we began to have a sense of enjoyment — this being in fact the only spot where we could obtain fresh air dui'ing the sultry season. As usual, Madame X arbitrarily assumed dictatorship on the occa- sion, and prevented om' boat from landing at the customary place in the bay, assuring us that she knew another much shorter way, and that by rowing in that dii-ection, we should be disembarked close to our own house. I had never much confidence in her, as I had fi-equent experience of the absurdity of her pretensions ; but there were no means of dissuading her, and we were obliged to proceed in the direction indicated. Mean- while the water having fallen low, as is commonly the case in autumn, and we not being sufficiently acquainted with navi- gation, the boat stranded on a sand-bank. OF SIBERIA. 263 It was no easy task to get it afloat again, and reach a deeper part of the stream. This, however, was not our last mischance. Madame X determined to have it all her oAvn way, and still persisted in carrjdng us home by the shortest passage ; and we had not gone far when we got on another sand- bank, and we were this time several hours before we could get clear of it. The sun, indeed, was now sinking below the horizon, and we could not help murmui'ing at the imprudence of our obstinate guide, fearing that we should be detained on the river all night. At length Madame X consented to abdicate her authority ; and profiting by our fi'eedomwe retiu'ned into the mid-channel, and pushed for the usual landing, which to oui- great delight we soon reached, and just at twilight arrived home. When safely seated, Madame X declared that it was not owing to her want of skill, but to a series of extraordinary acci- dents, that we encoimtered so many unex- pected obstacles during oui' expedition. I did not say a word in reply, but let her speak as she chose, only making a silent 264 REVELATIONS resolution never to vcntui'e again on any water excursion with women, unless under the protection of men. My only souvenir of the trip was miserably galled hands and an excruciating pain in all my limbs, which prevented my sleeping all the night. The water of the Soswa had considerably decreased at this time, so that where a few days before large vessels were freely plying, we now saw either continuous dry land or countless islands. The bed of the river was not navigable throughout on account of the shallowness of the water. The mid-stream alone, except in a few deeper channels, could be safely navigated. In the vicinity of Berezov the river rises to such a height during the spring, that on meadow land where grass is growing during summer, large vessels of many hun- dred tons are safely carried by the current on their distant voyages. "What however struck me as most remarkable was, that the highest tides should prevail till the beginning of August, and after that period gradually diminish until they reached the lowest water- mark in the bed of the river. As will readily OF SIBERIA. 265 be conceived, the immense forests, stretch- ing far and near, all containing vast masses of snow, pour into the Soswa and its tribu- taries a large volume of water ; but snow commonly disappears before the end of June. On the Ural mountains, and more particu- larly on the northern chain, snow remains indeed throughout the summer ; but from this source, as it lies below Berezov, we can scarcely suppose that the Soswa derives any supply. For my own part I attribute the rise of its waters to so extraordinary a height, to the circumstance that the earth in those parts of Siberia never thaws to any depth, and being frozen even in summer is deprived of the power of absorption, so that the water is consequently carried in undiminished volume to the sea of Oby. Another reason for the high tide may be the prevalence of the north wind from the Arctic Ocean. When this wind prevails even in summer, vast tracks of land near the river become inundated, whilst masses of snow and di-ifting ice are driven into the mouth of the river, obstructing its passage and so raising the water above its natural level. VOL. I. K 266 REVELATIONS As the time di'cw near for the despatch of the post, I devoted a day to WTitmg letters. Unable to help my children in anything, I resolved not to impose restraints on their actions. To my daughter I sent my consent to do what she thought best, convinced that the obstacles to her project of joining me, which, I foresaw, would arise from other cir- cumstances rather than my refusal, would render her lot easier to bear. Cherishing the hope of one day joining me here, she would be more reconciled to our present separation. Having finished my letters, I sent them to the Horodnitchee to be forwarded by the post, and went out myself for a walk. The aspect of everytliing was as dismal as can be imagined. The ground was strevm with autumnal leaves; the grass had timied yellow and was perfectly mthered ; the river had sunk into a narrow channel, leaving behind on either side extensive banks, which but a few weeks previously had formed its bed. Such features imparted to the environs of the town a most melancholy character. Berezov, indeed, was now entii^cly disrobed even of OF SIBERIA. 267 those scanty festive habiliments under which, duiiug the summer months, it had partially concealed its repulsiveness ; and I could not but liken it to an ungainly old actress, who, after performing the part of a young and beautiful princess on the stage, returns to her dismal lodgings in her own attire. Ha\dng thrown off her borrowed tinsel and wiped- off the rouge from her sluivelled cheeks, she sits tired to death at the fire in her garret, in her ragged nightgown, and broods over the vanity of worldly distinctions. But even the worst thing is not without its good side. The aii-, though cold, was now more pleasant than in the sultry summer. Musquitos had disappeared, and we were enabled to enjoy without inconvenience our out-of-doors promenade. One day I went alone to the forest. On its outskirts I found a few fine mushrooms, which encouraged me to search for more. I proceeded farther, and at length, on looking round did not know where I was. As the sun was not shining, I was deprived of the only beacon, by which I could safely direct my steps. I began to fear that I should N 2 268 REVELATIONS be lost, a casualty that not un frequently happens to the natives, these vast forests affording no clue to an outlet. At first I had taken my direction, as it seemed to me, towards the river — though even of that I was not sure — and as usual with those who know not theii' way, the imagination representing objects according to its particular bent, increased my perplexity. At every step I made, the forest appeared denser, wilder, and more sombre ; and a deep monotonous sound of ^olian harmony alone broke the solemn silence. I would have given worlds, could I have seen anything animate or inanimate, that would have indicated to me the dii'ec- tion of the town, but each moment only- bewildered me more. But convinced that a passive state of despondency would be of no avail, I continued advancing further and further. Uncertainty and consternation made the time appear exceedingly long, insomuch that it seemed as though I had been wandering for many weary hours. At length, emerging from the thicket, I saw before me a ravine intersecting the forest. I considered this a most fortunate discoverj^, OF SIBERIA. 269 and hastened to see whether some traces of water could not be found, and if so, in what direction it proceeded. In pursuing this track I perceived at the bottom of the defile a small streamlet, and presuming that it would sooner or later bring me to the river, I folloAved its course, as my only chance of escaping from the forest. At first I advanced, for some time on the sloping side of the ravine, but finding my progress impeded at each step by thickets, and trunks of large trees, many of which, fallen from decay, lay rotting on the ground, I descended to its lowest part, where I found the passage less encumbered with obstacles. After a distance of about five hundred yards, I arrived at a point where the ravine began to widen, ter- minating in an open green plot of ground. Screened on three sides by lofty hills, this secluded spot yet preserved the verdm-e of summer, and contrasted strangely with the naked riven cliffs around. It was sm-rounded with a number of stately old larch trees, overshadowing the lonely nook with their sombre ever-green branches. So picturesque was this sequestered place, that I would 270 EEVELATIONS gladly have remained there awhile to rest myself, only for my anxiety to get out of the dreadful forest, and, therefore, mthout tarrying a minute, I hm-ried onward. In continuing my way thi'ough the defile I followed its meandering turns, and kept close to my best guide, the streamlet ; constantly looking forward to see whether I could not catch a glimpse of open ground, when, turning a sharp angle, to my great astonishment — I cannot say satisfaction — I found myseK on a sudden in the presence of a number of Ostiaks, with theu' faces turned towards the largest of the larch trees, and with strange gesticulations addressing the ancient trunk, in a language to me utterly unintelligible. Knowing perfectly well that the Ostiaks, according to theii* Shamanic religion, wor- shipped the larch tree [modrzessie), I instantly divined the reason why they were assembled here ; but this, far from reassuring me, only increased my apprehension. "They will perhaps mm'der me," was my involuntary thought, " that I may not betray their secret ; " for having accepted — or rather been compelled to accept; — Christianity; they were OF SIBERIA. 271 performing the rites of their idolatrous worship in secret ; and being wholly ignorant of their customs, I did not know to what extent I might not have offended them. Had I seen any possibility of escaping, I should certainly have seized it, but aware that I was already observed, and that there was no chance of my getting past the assem- blage without going close to them, and still less of being able to retreat by the ravine, which, besides being deep was enclosed by high cliffs, I made a virtue of necessity, and assuming a mien of utter unconcern, though inwardly trembling with fear, I boldly advanced towards the tlu'ong, and passed tlu'ough the midst of them. The astonishment of the Ostiaks, which I saw depicted on their faces, was only equal to my own, when I found myself in their ranks. Not a word was addressed to me by any one of them ; and I was not disposed, as may be imagined, to break the silence. I pursued my way unmolested, and it hap- pened, just as I had hoped, that the ravine brought me to the banks of the river Soswa, at no great distance from Berezov, In these 272 REVELATIONS parts, losing one's way is an occurrence at- tended not rarely with loss of life. I became acquainted with the wife of a Russian employe^ whose mother one day went out with some friends to seek berries, and wan- dering away from her party, got entangled in the forest, and notwithstanding the strictest search, not a trace of her was ever discovered. I know not how it was, but after my own misadventure, I could never meet this lady without conjui'ing up a most horrible pictui'e of her mother's sufferings — how she must have perished either by dying a lingering death, or from famine and ex- haustion, or by falling a prey to wild beasts. I will here relate one of the shocking ac- cidents which but a few years ago happened in this very district. I give it on the autho- rity of a lady who acted a principal part in it, and herself related it to me. The occur- rence took place at Kondisk, on the river Oby. At the season of gathering berries, a party of young females of that village went to pick them in a neighbouring forest. One, in her search, unhappily separated herself from the rest of the company, and some time elapsed OF SIBERIA. 273 before they became aware that she was mis- sing. They then shouted and hallooed as loud as they could, but all their calling was in vain. No answer was heard from any direction. Meanwhile, the straggler, perceiving when too late that she had wandered so far from her companions, and all her efforts to rejoin them proving unsuccessful, thought to make her way home. Accordingly, she took what she thought the right track, but night came on, and she was still in the forest. When it grew quite dark, and she had lost all hope of retracing her way home, she climbed a tree, to be out of the reach of wild animals and snakes, and so passed the night. The whole of the following day was spent in seeking to emerge from the forest, but with as little success as the preceding, and the poor creature only penetrated further into its depths. Hunger and exliaustion came on, and wild berries were the only sustenance she could obtain. In vain she called for aid ; the wilderness, as if in mock- ery, echoed her cry on every side, but bore it to no human ear. Her strength was alto- x\ 3 274 REVELATIONS gether foiling, and she considered herself utterly lost, while death, apparently ine^dta- ble, presented itself to her imagination in a thousand horrible shapes. Now she fancied herself dying from hunger, as the berries on which she still subsisted would soon disap- pear, or from cold, or under the claws of some rapacious beast. Soon she lost her voice, and could no longer call for help, but became with despair pros- trate alike in body and mind. She sat for whole days cooped up and immoveable on the same spot, with patience awaiting her end. Want of food, as a mere craving of instinct, was alone able to arouse her for a moment from her torpor. Even when thus urged she unwillingly di'agged her heavy limbs along, and having advanced a few steps from the spot, no sooner appeased her hunger with a few berries, than she relapsed into her previous apathy. In this condition she remained for no less than eight days. On the ninth day, while snatching some berries from a tree, she heard at a distance a rustling sound, like that made by a person making his way among dry branches. She OF SIBERIA. 275 listened, and as the sound fell on her ear more and more distinctly, she began to hope that it di-ew nearer. How full of moment to her was the anxious interval, as with each sound a distracting hope of deliverance rose in her mind ! After some minutes of intense expectation, alternating between hope and despair, the branches of the thicket parted, and she beheld a bear. Her fii-st emotion was intense terror. Had she possessed sufficient strength she would have taken flight, but this desii-e instantly gave way to a different sensation : "God, in His great mercy," she murmured, "perhaps sends me a speedy end, instead of a protracted lingering death," and possessed by this impression she resigned herself to her fate. The huge beast of the forest came within a few paces of the spot where she was. Calm and immoveable, agitated by no earthly desire, and nothing daunted, she stood resigned before him, a perfect statue of patience. After contemplating her a moment, the animal with an air of gravity turned away, and resumed his progress through the 276 REVELATIONS wood. The consternation which the incident had inspired was now dispelled, and was succeeded by reflection. The fii'st idea that rose in her mind was the belief prevailing among the natives, that a bear appearing to a wanderer is sure to lead him in the right path. This flashed across her brain with the velocity of lightning. Hope revived, and with it her courage ; and as the bear moved on with slow steps, she followed him as close as her debilitated state would allow. The bear continued his rambling walk, casting at times his look behind, but though he saw her following, he neither increased nor diminished his pace. At last her strength completely failed, and the unhappy woman felt that she could go no further, and would be obliged to relinquish her guide. After a few tottering steps in advance, she was so overpowered with fatigue as to be compelled to sit down, and at this instant she saw the bear suddenly trot away, and disappear in the thicket. Grief too keen to describe now over- whelmed her, as she was thus deprived of her last hope. The exti'eme exhaustion of OF SIBERIA. 277 physical powers was rendered more insup- poi-table by great thirst, and to allay it she was compelled to look round for some ber- ries. As she did so, she perceived through the branches of the trees something shining like water. She drew nearer, and with joy saw a stream of running water at a short dis- tance. She knew well that by following the course of the stream she would finally arrive at a larger river, and human settlements being always on the banks of rivers, wouM have a chance of being saved. The hope gave her sti*ength, and gathering a few ber- ries to refresh her, she proceeded onwards. Mght once more overtook her in the forest ; but on the morning of the next day she succeeded in reaching the spot where the stream emptied itself into the river. Not knowing now what dia'ection to take, she sate on the shore, hoping that sopie boat might pass fi'om which she could obtain help. In this expectation, she watched the whole day, but in vain ; no boat was to be seen. On the following day, the twelfth since she had left home, she heard to her great joy the barking of dogs and occasional volleys of fire- 278 REVELATIONS arms. Fain would she have shouted for assistance, but she had altogether lost her voice, and even at a few paces distance no one could hear the loudest cry that she could utter. ]\Iustering all her remaining powers, she endeavoured to reach the spot from which the fii-iug seemed to proceed, and which appeared to be near at hand. But she was not so fortunate as to meet any of the hunting-party; as the hunter, after he has fired, never remains in the same place, but advances to another, and thus, instead of meeting him where she expected, the faint, helpless woman could scarcely detect the scent of the gunpowder, and was again perplexed as to what direction she should pursue in search of him. At last even the report of fire-arms grew more and more faint. From fear of losing sight of the river, she did not venture to go any farther, but returned to her former rest- ing-place. Finally, ail aroimd relapsed into deep silence, and hope seemed to vanish for ever. In this painfid condition, mourning bitterly that fate should so tantalize her, holding out a prospect of rescue and then or siBEEiA. 279 destroying it, her eyes, languid and faint, involuntarily turned to the river, as if from that quarter alone she could hope for suc- cour. How great, how- unspeakable was her joy, when she descried a boat ! She made an effort to shout, to apprise its inmates of her forlorn condition, but without success, as her voice was powerless. Her despair was now indescribable, as she thought that the last opportunity of deliverance would pass by, and leave her to a most horrible death. In this dilemma she tore branches from the trees, and flung them in the water, hoping to attract attention by the splash ; but thrown by so feeble a hand, this was not to be expected. She would have readily flimg herself into the stream, if she had thought that the splash would have been heard, but a moment's reflection convinced her that the boat was at too great a distance for this to be possible. The boat was now nearly abreast, and in another minute would pass by, when an idea struck her, which she instantly proceeded to realise. She had a red silk kerchief on her head, and this she immediately pulled off, 280 REVELATIONS and tying it on a long stick, waved it in the air. Most fortunately, the signal was per- ceived. The boat made for the shore, and took her on board. The boatmen belonged to the same party as the huntsmen, whose firing she had so recently heard, and both had been sent out in search of her. Her husband, children, and relatives had, from the moment of her disappearance, been imi'emitting in exploring the forest; and when all their exertions proved unavailing, the whole population of Kondisk had been called upon to continue the search. Friends, neighboui's, and ac- quaintances turned out in a body to scour the inmost recesses of the forest. One party penetrating the thicket, shouted and dis- charged their guns, to apprise her of their presence, and in what direction she should seek them. Another went on the river, as the universal highway, and the safest, to which all who happened to lose themselves were accustomed to tiu:n their steps, as their only trustworthy path in this vast wilder- ness. But, as if fortune were adverse, just at the moment when the unliappy woman OF SIBERIA. 281 perceived the boat, the boatmen were obliged, from the peculiar character of the navigation, to keep on the opposite side of the river at a considerable distance from her ; and had they not been so unremittingly vigilant, looking for her in every possible direction, she must have miserably perished. In this extraordinary maimer, after twelve days' absence from home, the poor woman was restored to her family, and, I might almost say, to life. Famished and worn out, she was also so altered in appearance as to be scarcely recognisable, and looked more like a skeleton than a living being. 282 REVELATIONS CHAPTEE XVIII. The library at Tobolsk — Popularity of novels at Berezor — Tale-tellers— Samoiedes— Their tents, habits, and religion— Tragic incident at Samarov — Kapustka fete — Anna Piotrowna — Public opinion on seduction — Alarm at the appearance of a bear. Eainy days were raw and cold within, and out of doors made everything look gloomy and morunful. Fortunately for me in such weather I had become passionately fond of working on canvas ; and to this occupation, trifling as it may seem, I was indebted for the most agreeable hours spent at Berezov. This kind of work concentrated my ideas, so that they diverged neither to the past nor the future, but were all directed to the task before me. The counting of threads, the stitching, and the sorting of the colours, do not allow leisure for abstraction ; and the OF SIBERIA. 283 increase of the work beneath one's fingers gives an impulse to perseverance. It is twilight. Eeluctantly I rise from my workiiig-ft\amo. I cannot take any out-door exercise to close the weary day— nor can I for a moment stii* fr-om my chamber. The heavy rain falls with increased violence, and the streets stream with mud. I pass the " grey hour " of twilight in pacing the room in silent meditation. Ah, my meditations that I revolve in my solitude, they bring a whole world into my soul, calling into my presence, to this my lonely abode, glimmer- ing with the last faint light of parting day, so many dear reminiscences, appearing for a moment, and then vanishing like shadows of a magic lantern. Light is brought in. 1 must again think in what manner I may best spend the evening. Then sleep, that beneficent refr-esher, with its enchanting wand, may close my eyes, and conjure up, perhaps, in its bold pencillings and vivid colom's, all the images which I so fondly cherish, and can only smrender with my existence. In a country where there is no develop- 284 REVELATIONS ment of mind, and no intellectual way of passing the time, it was a most fortunate cir- cumstance for me, that, after all, I had a tolerable supply of books at my command. These are procured from Tobolsk, where there is a small library consisting of Polish, French, and other works. It was founded by Count Peter Moszynski, who, having possessed a co- pious collection of books, left it on his return from banishment, for the use of those who might be similarly situated. The original col- lection has been enlarged by yearly accessions of new publications, which are procured from St. Petersburg by means of voluntary sub- scriptions for that purpose, made among the few Tobolsk literati, according to their ability. The books are kept in a building assigned to them, forming as it were a public property; and every subscriber has a right to take home such works as he may choose. In case of any one desiring to withdraw his contribu- tion from the establishment, he is at liberty to take from the library books to the value of the amount. It is, however, seldom, that any subscriber, on quitting the place, avails himself of this liberal regulation. I found more books at Berezov than I had OF SIBERIA. 285 at first anticipated. They consisted chiefly of novels wiitten originally in Eussian, and also translations from other foreign languages. It may be true, that these works had found their way here accidentally, and that love of literatiu-e had nothing to do with their impor- tation. Still they met with an hospitable re- ception, and I have observed that the taste of the inhabitants for romantic tales and stories of life is more general than is imagined, perhaps. They derive such a relish from all that is won- derful and extraordinary, that there is not a family that has not its favourite haiar (story- teller), for the amusement of the domestic circle during the long winter evenings. No sooner does this story-teller make his appearance, and take his privileged seat, than all the inmates of the house — master, chil- dren, servants, — often even ncighboui's, old and young — hasten to gather roimd him. They take then' places as they best can — some on chairs, some on benches, or on the floor, eager not to lose a word of the coming recital. By dint of constant repetition, the stories and fables related are not unloiown to the assembled audience ; and indeed they 28G REVELATIONS know tliem almost by heart, insomucb, that, ill case of any passages being omitted, or any deviation made from the well-known text, the narrator is often con-eoted even by children. Nevertheless, these familiar tales are listened to with as much attention and delight, as though they were entirely new. Most of the stories are of Russian origin ; and when told, portions are accompanied, like the different stanzas in some songs, by a sort of uniform refrain composed chiefly of words without any meaning, but which, after some parts of the narration, are constantly re- peated, and even the more frequently from being more absurd. With respect to the novels, the more exaggeration and wonders, and the less probability they contain, the more are they admired. Some that I read, I found to be such a combination of absurdity and non- sense, that I was amazed how, in the j)resent age, such trash could be written or thought worth j)ublishing. Of modern novels, the best were translations from foreign languages. Their cii'culation, however, was limited, as but a small number of the fair sex were able to read with any OF SIBERIA. 287 fluency — reading being an accomplishment rarely met with here even among men, and still more rarely among women. As to the fair readers, they were considered great luminaries, though really incapable of either reflection or argument. Any passages in their books having sublimity or delicacy of sentiment are skipped, and can neither warm their imagination nor touch their hearts. What is called platonic love, or the senti- ment of honour in the sense understood by us, is entirely beyond the limits of their comprehension. They may excite ciu-iosity, but awaken no sympathy. A man capable of staking his life in order to redeem his pledged word, though pledged, as is often the case, inconsiderately ; or a woman ready to de- vote the whole of her life to the man she loves, and maintaining that love sacred because she has inwardly vowed it in her heart, are accounted by them to be merely visionary conceptions, or at best incidents long banished from this sublunary world. Totally unable to understand howsuchhigh sentiments canbe- come the mainspring of action, they consider them fabulous, like the histories of the Pala- 288 REVELATIONS ^ dins of old, who, single handed, encountered armies of forty thousand men in battle, or who could take strong fortresses without the aid of a single soldier. Literary productions of this and the like romantic stamp, are eagerly de- voured and much admired by the Berezovians, and are also judged, as I have just hinted, not after our European, but by their own pe- culiar standard of criticism. On paying a chance visit to a Siberian lady, and finding her sitting with a book by Chateaubriand or D'Arlincourt in her hand, as I have frequently done, I at fii'st felt the greatest astonishment. But when I heard this same literary lady, whom I found poring over the pages of these authors, address her waiting- maid in a torrent of coarse, abusive language, which no market-woman in our towns would use without blushing, I felt that she could not possibly understand what she was reading. The Samoiedes, from the shores of the Frozen Ocean, arrive here in August, to fetch corn-brandy or whisky. Berezov is the last northern point in the government of Tobolsk, where that article can be obtained from the government stores. All the inhabi- OF SIBERIA. 289 tants of this cold clime betray an excessive proneness for intoxication, and therefore the Government deem it right to restrict the use of ardent spirits as much as possible, by means of most stringent regulations framed for that purpose. Illicit importation of whisky into the interior is severely forbidden, except what can be bought from the stores of this place, and it is even fixed by law, what quantity of spirits can be obtained from the stores, either for private use or for sale. But, as it commonly happens in Eussia, the intention of the law is set aside, and its best provisions defeated. The passion of the Ostiaks and Samoiedes for intoxication is so strong, that they will travel a himdred versts for no other pui'pose than to muddle their heads with whisky, and thus large cargoes of it are smuggled to their settlements from other parts. The Samoiedes* are taller and much finer men than the Ostiaks. Their hair and eyes * The term Samoied is Slavonic, and signifies self- eater. But whether these people were ever cannibals is not ascertained; now, at least, no such crime can be laid to their charge. VOL. I. 290 EEVELATIONS are black, which is rather uncommon in the population of these parts. They shave their heads below, leaving some haii- on the top, and tliis they comb down on the forehead. They do not allow their beards to grow, and it is customary both with themselves and their neighbours, the Ostiaks, to tear their hair out by the roots while it is young, and then it does not grow again. Their language is different fi'om that of the Ostiaks. They speak with a nasal twang, and very indis- tinctly ; not from any defect in their organs of speech, but fi*om a peculiarity in their idiom. In their costume, the Samoiedes do not much differ from the Ostiaks. Theii- dress consists of reindeer skin, with the only difference that that of the Samoiedes is arranged with more care and taste. The Samoiedes occupy the principal part of Western Siberia, extending their nomade settlements along the shores of the Frozen Ocean, from the TJralian Mountains to the river Lena. The whole extent of the terri- tory inhabited by their tribes is marshy to such a degree, that it is devoid of all forests, as none of the larger trees, with the exception OF SIBERIA. 291 of osiers, can grow on the boggy ground. In this respect they are far worse off than the Ostiaks, who are favoui'ed with plenty of fuel, and are protected by large forests from the cold. The miserable osiers and low brushwood are all that the Samoiedes have for fuel, while small tents of reindeer skins, pitched on snow, are their only refuge from the weather. These tents are of a conical shape, and in their language are called tchoum. They are transportable fi'om place to place, which ojDeration is performed several times in the course of the year, or rather as frequently as the necessity of hunting or fishing may requu-e. Under such wretched shelter, children are born and brought up; and what is most wonderful, they are healthy and robust. Fishing and hunting are the Samoiedes' only means of subsistence. They sometimes keep a considerable number of reindeer, which, in years when the chase and fishing fail, are appropriated for food. It is on the extensive marshy plains along the shores of the Frozen Ocean, occupied by the Samoied tribes, that the valuable white rein- deer are found in greatest number, and they 292 REVELATIONS constitute the principal object of commerce in that region. The natives hunt these animals, and their skins represent money, by means of which all other commodities are obtained. Various specimens of foxes, which fetch high prices, also come from this district, as do blue cams lopagas, ermine, and ducks called gagarki, the down of whose necks is very much prized for its exquisite beauty, and, after undergoing a certain process, is used to ornament pelisses. The costume of Samoied women is, with some trifling distinctions, nearly the same as that of the Ostiak women. They wear gii'dles round the waist, ornamented in front with large plates of brass, emblazoned with various figures. The plates are commonly of a cir- cular form, and broad enough to cover nearly the whole of the chest. From these hang strings of beads and sounding pieces of metal, which dangle about in front. Bells of metal are often fastened as ornaments to the elbows. The Samoiedes are to this day idolaters, following the tenets of their ancient Shamanic religion. They worship the sun, the moon, and the works of natui-e, in so far as these engage OF SIBERIA. 293 their attention, either by their uses or their beauty. A beautiful tree, a stone, a river, or a lake, if it captivates their eye, at once secui'es their reverence and adoration. Their religion has little spiiituality. It teaches that the gods of their race are sojourn- ing amidst them, and often show themselves in human form, in the Samoiedan costume. These divinities take every possible interest in the earthly concerns of the tribes, warning them whether they will succeed or fail in then* fisheries ; whether the hunting season will be prosperous, or the reverse ; and whether this year will be one of famine or plenty. This faith is far from being based exclu- sively on ancient traditions ; it forms part of their actual life. At the commencement oi every year, a rumour is mysteriously circu- lated amongst them of an augury presaging what is to occur in the ensuing twelve months, which is said to have been announced to some one by the national deity in person. The revelation is usually made on the banks of a river, or in the depths of a forest. The Eussians themselves, notwithstanding their profession of Christianity, do not refuse belief 2 294 REVELATIONS in these progDOstications, and admitting that a Samoied god may appear to a Samoicd, they urge only that he is interior to the Chris- tian God. In proof of this, many most absurd stories are cii'culated, and foolishly received as gospel truths. Among these is one relating how an Ostiak god, meeting a Christian priest, challenged liim to a contest of skill in working miracles, which was accepted by the priest ; and after many mar- vellous efforts on the part of the Ostiak god, he was, of course, to his great vexation and shame, completely discomfited by the priest. On the last day of August, the frost was so intense that the ground was frozen as hard as it is in Europe in the month of December. Vessels which had been out to the sea fisheries began to retui-n home ; and among the arrivals was our landlord, who, I expected, would have brought a large cargo of fish ; but all that he had caught had been salted and sold to the merchants of Tobolsk. The Berezovians never eat salt fish, and speak of it "with disgust. The returned ships brought intelligence of one of the most tragic events that had or siBERLi. 295 occured here within memory, and it en- grossed the whole attention of the public for some time. A merchant of Samarov, a place I have before mentioned, was with his ves- sel at the fisheries in the Oby Gulf, and was returning home with a cargo of salt fish, with the intention of proceeding afterwards to Tobolsk, according to liis annual custom, to dispose of it. Arrived, however, within a short distance of Samarov, his vessel stranded on a sand-bank, and from want of proper succour was wrecked, and all the cargo lost. The merchant and crew were saved, and came on in two small boats to their native village. To give him a good reception on his return, his wife, according to the custom of the country on similar occasions, had the samovar and tea awaiting him, and his neighbours came in a body to join in the welcome. The arrival of a vessel in so lonely a locality is always reckoned among important events, and usually attracted the cuiiosity of everybody in the neighbourhood. But all this cmiosity and friendly demonstra- tion of sympathy had no efi'ect on the mer- chant. They could not dispel from his mind 296 REVELATIONS the dark melancholy caused by the loss he had sustained. In vain his affectionate wife tried to cheer, his neighbours to console him ; in vain his little son, a boy of three years, fondly crept round his knees, to soothe his grief. He looked on with tears in his eyes, and remained silent and disconsolate. Before the tea was poiu-ed out he left the room, and only a few minutes had elapsed when a servant rushed in, and announced the dismal intelligence that his master had hung himself. On hearing this, the guests, struck with horror, hurried to the spot wliere the suicide was committed. They saw the merchant hanging, and instantly cut the rope ; and as he was not entirely strangled, succeeded in recalling life. The disturbance caused by the event having somewhat subsided, the company were returning to the apartment they had just left, when a horrible spectacle burst upon them. The samovar had upset, and the little boy of three years falling under it, was deluged with boiling water, and was rolling on the floor, his whole body a perfect blister. The next day the child died. The merchant, who previously had not sufficient OF SIBERIA. 297 fortitude to bear up against the loss of his cargo of fish, was strangely enough able to drain this cup of bitterness, looking on his beloved child — ^his only son — dying in this dreadful agony. I received an invitation to an horticultural ftte^ called kapustka (cabbage), from which it will be seen that that vegetable has found its way to Berezov, but though planted here, ow- ing to the shortness of the summer, the bulb does not attain any perfection. It is gathered in leaves, which are chopped in thin pieces, and a dish called harshtch preparedfi'om them. The usual season for gathering cabbage is when frost sets in. At that time, it is cus- tomary for every lady who possesses a cab- bage-garden, to choose some day which may be most convenient for her female relations and friends to come and work in her garden. The whole task being accomplished in one day, the fair labourers go in turn on succeeding days to other fields to perform the same. In my own case, having intimated to my landlady my willingness to assist in the work, I was invited with the rest of her female friends. We all proceeded to the cabbage-field, and 298 REVELATIONS there cut the leaves from the tiny stalks with knives, and deposited the whole of the crop in a room. Large troughs were then brought, and filled with the leaves which we had first chopped and salted, layer after layer. This done, we carried the salted cabbage to a cellar, and packed it in wooden tubs. While the process of chopping was in progress, one of the party sang a lively song. Our work completed, Ave had tea and other re- freshments. Then followed dancing, but with- out music, or the attraction of male partners, though the good-heartedness and cheerful disposition of the company made amends for all other deficiencies. As I took no part in the dancing, I accosted one of my fellow-reapers, whose expressive countenance and delicacy of demeanour had particularly struck me. She was probably past thirty ; but she was still a handsome young woman. Her pale, delicate face, and her black eyes, full of sweetness and melan- choly, possessed a charm which I could not resist. I took a seat at her side, and, to open a conversation, asked her why she did not dance. " It is not for me to dance,'' answered Anna OF SIBEHIA, 299 Piotrowna. '' I must husband my strength, that I may be able to work for my two childi'en, who are maintained by my labour." This answer made me feel still greater in- terest in her. '^ Are you a widow ?'' I in- quii'ed. " No ; I am married," said she. '' My husband is in the employ of the Governor- General at Omsk, and, as I am told, very well off." " What occasion can there be, then, for you to work for your children ?" I asked. Mournfully shaking her head, Anna Pio- trowna replied in a tone of sorrow: " What can a woman do with a husband who is for- getful of his duty ? For two years he remem- bered the children, and sent us some money, but he has since entii'ely forgotten me and them. Por twelve years I have been left without any resources, compelled to provide for the subsistence of my family ; and until my eldest son grows up, my labour can know no intermission. Prom my needle-work I have contrived to give him such education as can be had in this town. A good and intelli- gent boy he is, employing his time at school 300 REVELATIONS in the best manner. He has learnt to read and to write, and I have procured him the post of clerk in the government office at Tobolsk, where he is already in a fair way of gaining his livelihood ; and when he writes letters to me the people wonder at his beauti- ful writing, and say that it looks like an en- graving. I have besides to maintain my aged father, who is not able to do any work. My daughter is approaching womanhood ; and ere long she may be married, when she will need some dowry. So much is expected from the exertions of one poor woman !" '' Why do you not write to your husband ?" said I. '' It is impossible that he should with- hold from his family the support and protec- tion he is bound to give." " Do you think he does not know how we are situated?" was her reply. " I wrote to him indeed several times ; but when I found that he would not answer ray letters, I ceased to trouble him, trusting that God would take us under His protection." " H your husband refuses you and your children voluntary assistance, you might ob- tain it by law. You have only to di-aw up OF SIBERIA. 301 a complaint against him, and the Govern- ment would order a deduction of a portion of his salary for the maintenance of his family.'' " Many times have I received this advice, but the idea of such a course is too repulsive to me," she replied. "No doubt, that is a noble sentiment; but for the sake of the children, you should not shrink from taking this step. With a larger income, you might give your son a better education, and even get your daugh- ter better married." " All you say is perfectly true ; yet, apart from the aversion I feel to any such measure, there is another obstacle connected with it — and that is, my husband and myself were not lawfully married." My cheek crimsoned on hearing this con- fession ; I was confounded, and did not know how to continue the conversation, not from any undue prudery, which at my age would have ill become me, but from the conscious- ness of the pain which I thought that I must have caused this poor woman, in forcing her, by my untoward questions, to so unwelcome VOL. I. P 302 REVELATIONS an avowal, wliicli, as I imagined, could not be made by any woman without the greatest anguish. Happily, the daughter of oiu' land- lady at that very moment accosted us, and diverted the conversation into a different channel. I cast a timid look at Anna Piotrowna, but, to my siu'prise, did not per- ceive in her features any of that confusion which I experienced myself. This circumstance gave me much to think of. I was, I confess, quite at a loss to re- concile the severe propriety observed in our landlord's family with the respect shown by them to Anna Piotrowna, who was, in fact, the chosen friend of all. There was not a festival to which she was not invited, and no incident happened in the family, in which she, as a friend, did not participate. In the evening of the following day I in- vited our landlord to play chess with me — a game of which he was extremely fond. As our game progressed, I purposely led the con- versation to the subject of Anna Piotrowna, and at the same time stated how much our Eui'opean opinions would condemn her con- duct. From his reply, I discovered that, OF SIBERIA. 303 while we visit an imprudent woman, seduced from the path of virtue, "with irrevocable con- demnation, ejecting her from society as one branded with indelible dishonour, without considering the extenuating circumstances which might be adduced to diminish her guilt, the Siberians, with primitive feelings of justice, lay all the blame on the seducer. If the woman has sought the mere gratifica- tion of her passion, and not a matrimonial alliance ; or, in other words, when both par- ties are not free, and could not by any means have seriously contemplated marriage ; or when the man has not held out a promise of this kind, public opinion treats the unhappy woman with inexorable severity. But if, on the other hand, a young woman has the mis- fortune to be abandoned, and her lover deserts her without any fault on her part, she becomes rather an object of commiseration than of reproof, and the man alone is con- demned. In such cases, the woman loses as little in the opinion of the public as would a creditor who, in all good faith, has intrusted his capital to a man who turns out a bad debtor. With respect to Anna Piotrowna, as no levity could be laid to her charge, and 304 REVELATIONS no fault could be found with her conduct ; and as she was scrupulously discharging the duties of a mother, maldng every possible sacrifice for her children, she received from all the greatest sympathy. Far from perse- cuting or despising her, the good people here commiserated her hard lot, and, as far as they could, helped her to bear up against it. Before we had finished our game at chess, Madame X rushed almost breathless into the room, with the intelligence that her brother, a young merchant, had just returned from the forest where he had been hunting ; and while traversing the thickets, had seen, at a few steps from the spot where he stood, a huge bear tearing to pieces a dark cow. Panic- stricken, as may easily be imagined, he had instantly taken to his heels, and coming into town, thrown every one into the greatest alarm. The bear immediately became the only topic of conversation among the inhabitants. Everybody gave his own version of the inci- dent, and the young merchant was congratu- lated on his good luck in having escaped from the animal unhurt. END OF VOL. I. NEW LIBRARY EDITION, WITH PORTRAITS, OF PEPYS' DIARY AND CORRESPONDENCE. Now ready, elegantly printed, in Four Volumes, demy octavo, a new and improved Library Edition, including all the late important MS. Additions, and upwards of Two Hundred additional Notes, and Letters, Index, ^"C., price \ Os. 6d. per Volume, handsomely bound, of the DIABY AND CORIIESPONDENCE OP SAMUEL PEPYS, F.R.S., SECRETAHY TO THE ADMIRALTY IN THE REIGNS OF CHARLES II. AND JAMES 11. EDITED BY RICHARD LORD BRAYBROOKE. The authority of Pepts, as an historian and illustrator of a con- siderable portion of the seventeenth century, has been so fully acknowledged by every scholar and critic, that it is now scarcely necessary even to remind the reader of the advantages he possessed for producing the most complete and trustworthy record of events, and the most agreeable pictm-e of society and manners, to be found in the literature of any nation. In confidential communication with the reigning sovereigns, holding high official employment, placed at the head of the Scientific and Learned of a period re- markable for intellectual impulse, mingling in every circle, and obsei-ving everything and everybody whose characteristics were worth noting down ; and possessing, moreover, an intelligence peculiarly fitted for seizing the most graphic points in whatever he attempted to delineate, Pepts may be considered the most valuable as well as the most entertaining of our National Historians. A New Library Edition of this work, comprising all the re- stored passages and the additional annotations that have been called for by the vast advances in antiquarian and historical know- ledge d\iring the last twenty years, will doubtless be regarded as one of the most agreeable additions that could be made to the library of the general reader. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. FROM THE EDINBUKGH REVIEW. " Without making any exception in favour of any other production of ancient or modern diarists, we unhesitatingly characterise this journal as the most remarkable production of its kind which has ever been given to the world. Pepys' Diary makes us comprehend the great historical events of the age, and the people who bore a part in them, and gives us more clear glimpses into the true English life of the times than all the other memorials of them that have come down to our own." 2 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS ON PEPYS' DIARY — continued. FROM THE QUARTERLY REVIEW. " There is much in Pcpys' Diary tliat tlirows a distinct and vivid h'^ht over the picture of Enghmd and its trovernnient (hirinj; the jioriod succeeding tlie Restoration. If, (juittino: the broad path of history, we look for minute in- formation concerning ancient manners and customs, the progress of arts and sciences, and tlie various branches of antiquity, we liave never seen a mine so rich as these volumes. The variety of I'epys' tastes and pursuits led him into almost every dej)artment of life. lie was a man of business, a man of informa- tion, a man of whim, and, to a certain degree, a man of pleasure. He was a statesman, a bcl espj-it, a virtuoso, and a connoisseur. His curiosity made him an unwearied, as well as an universal, learner, and whatever he saw found its way into his tables." FROM THE ATIIEN;EDM. " The best book of its kind in the English language. The new matter is extremely curious, and occasionally far more characteristic and entertaining than tlie old. The writer is seen in a clearer light, and the reader is taken into his inmost soul. Pepys' Diary is the ablest picture of the age in which the writer ived, and a work of standard imi^ortance in English literature." FROM THE EXAMINER. " We place a high value on Pepys' Diary as the richest and most delightful contribution ever made to the history of English life and manners in the latter half of the seventeenth century." FROM TAIT's magazine. "We owe Pepys a debt of gratitude for the rare and curious information he has bequeathed to us in this most amusing and interesting work. His Diary is valuable, as depicting to us many of the most important characters of the times. Its author has bequeathed to us the records of his heart — the very reflection of his energetic mmd ; and his quaint but happy narrative clears up numerous disputed points— throws light into many of the dark corners of history, and lays bare the hidden substratum of events which gave birth to, and supported the visible progress of, the nation." FROM THE MORNING POST. " Of all the records that have ever been published, Pepys' Diary gives us the most vivid and trustworthy picture of the times, and the clearest view of the state of English public affairs and of English society during the reign of Charles II. We see there, as in a map, the vices of the monarch, the intrigues of the Cabinet, the wanton follies of the court, and the many calamities to which the nation was subjected during the memorable period of fire, plague, and general licentiousness." FROM DOUGLAS JERROLD's WEEKLY NEWSPAPER. "The great charm of the book we take to be the imconscious revealment of a thoroughly worldly character, and as such, we know nothing in Shakspeare, Cervantes, or Moliere, more deliciously developed. The only thing at all like it is Boswell's Life of Johnson. But it must be acknowledged that Pepys' Diary has numerous charms in addition to the transcendent one of characterisation — its numerous anecdotes; its endless illustrations of old nationalities, localities, and customs; a sort of picturesque tone which time has lent to it; and a con- tinuous human interest. Pepys had a wondrous tact in giving broadly, and yet sharply, the sensations and pictures of the time. The reader is made one of his strange, fantastic group, and we follow him to the king's presence-chamber, or the ordinary at the Dog or Mitre, to Whitehall or Seething-lane, with almost a bodily reality. It is superfluous to dilate on a work which every one, pretend- ing to any regard for belles lettres, has read or will read." CHEAP EDITION OF MISS BURNEY'S DIARY. With the Magazines, on the \st March, 1854, loas published {to he completed in Seven Mmithly Volumes, small 8to, Embellished wtth Portraits, price only 3*. each, elegantly hound) the First Volume of the DIARY AND LETTERS OF MADAME D'ARBLAY, AUTHOR OF " EVELINA," " CECILIA," &c. INCLUDING THE PERIOD OF HER KESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE. In announcing a new and cheap edition of Madame D'Arblay's celebrated Diary, the publishers cannot convey a better idea of the nature of the work, to those who are unacquainted with it, than by extracting the opening passage of Miss Burney's Journal, which was commenced in 1 768, and continued, with but few interruptions, during the greater portion of the winter's long and eventful life : — " To have some account of my thoughts, actions, and acquaintance, when the hour arrives when time is more nimble than memory, is the reason which induces me to keep a Journal — a Journal in which I must confess my every thought — must open my whole heart." When we call to mind that the person who formed this resolution, and adhered to it during the most important period of her brilliant career, was one of the most remarkable and justly celebrated women, not merely of her own, but of any time or country — that her family position, no less than her celebrity, commanded for her an intimate intercourse with all who were illustrious in English Literature and Art during then' most illustrious era, and that the results of such resolution are here given to the world precisely as they left the hand of their writer (the omissions required by personal and family con- siderations being alone excepted), the interest this work must ex- cite, can scarcely be increased ; yet it ought to be stated, that, shortly after the publication of her second work, " Cecllia," she was spontaneously oifered by Queen Charlotte a situation about her Majesty's person, which brought her into daily intercourse with every individual forming the Court of George III. During this remarkable period of her life, Miss Burney never omitted to note in her Journal such events and conversations of the past day as she deemed worthy of record, and might be given without any violation of confidence ; and these sketches of the Court of George III. during the important era in question form part of the work now announced. MISS BURNEY'S DIARY. The Correspondence, whicli takes its place chronologically with the DiART, includes, besides a large number of Madame D'Arblay's own Letters, a selection from those addressed to her by the various distinguished literary and other persons with whom she was intimate. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. EDINBURGH KEVIKW. " Madame D'Arbky lived to be a classic. Time set on her fame, before she went hence, that seal which is seldom set except on the fame of the departed. All those whom we have been accustomed to revere as intellectual patriarchs seemed children when compared with her ; for Burke had sat up all night to read her writings, and Johnson had pronounced her superior to Fielding, when Rogers was still a schoolboy, and Southey still in petticoats. Her Diary is written in her earUest and best manner ; in true woman's English, clear, natural, and lively. It ought to be consulted by every person who wishes to be well acquainted with the history of our Uterature and our manners." TIMES. " Miss Bumey's work ought to be placed beside Boswell's ' Life,' to which it forms an excellent supplement." LITERARY GAZETTE. " This publication will take its place in the libraries beside Walpole and Boswell." NAVAL AND MILITARY GAZETTE. " A work unequalled in literary and social value by anything else of a similar kind in the language." MESSENGER. " This work may be considered a kind of supplement to Boswell's ' Life of Johnson.' It is a beautiful picture of society as it existed in manners, taste, and literature, in the reign of (jeorge the Third, drawn by a pencil as vivid and brilliant as that of any of the celebrated persons who composed the circle." POST. " Miss Bumey's Diary, sparkling with wit, teeming with lively anecdote and delectable gossip, and fiill of sound and discreet views of persons and things, will be perused with interest by all classes of readers." COURT JOURNAL. "This work presents an unrivalled combination of attraction. That extra- orduiary man Johnson is painted far better than he is by Boswell." WEEKXiY CHRONICLE. " We know not when we have been so delighted with a book as with Miss Bumey's Diary. Every page teems with interest." PUBLISHED FOR HENRY COLBURN, BY HIS SUCCESSORS, HURST & BLACKETT, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT, SUCCESSORS TO Ml). COLBURN, HAVE LATELY PUBLISHED €^i /nllnining linu i^nrlti MEMOIRS OF THE COURT AND CABINETS OF GEORGE THE THIRD, FROM ORIGINAL FAMILY DOCUMENTS. BY THE DUKE OF BUCKINGHAM AND CHANDOS, K.G., &c. Second Edition, Revised. 2 vols. 8vo., with Portraits. 30s. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. " These volumes contain much valuable matter. The letters which George, first Marquis of Buckingham, laid by as worthy of preservation, have some claim to see the light, for he held more than one office in the State, and consequently kept up a communication with a great number of historical personages. He himself was twice Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland; tirst, under Lord Rockingham, and secondly, under Pitt; his most constant correspondents were his two brothers, William and Thomas Grenville, both of whom spent the chief part of their lives in otficial emjiloyments, and of whom the former is sufficiently knov.'n to fame as Lord Grenville. The staple of the book is made up of these family documents, but there are also to be found interspersed with the Grenville narrative, letters from every man of note, dating from the death of the elder Pitt to the end of the century. There are three periods upon which they shed a good dpal of light. The formation of the Coalition Ministry in 1783, the illness of the King in 1788, and the first war with Republican France. Lord Grenville's letters to his brother afford a good deal of information on the machinations of the Prince's party, and the conduct of the Prince and the Duke of York during the King's illness." — The Times. " A very remarkable and valuable publication. The Duke of Buckingham has himself undertaken the task of forming a history from the papers of his grand- father and great-uncle, the Earl Temple (first Marquis of Buckingham), and Lord Grenville, of the days of the second Wm. Pitt. The letters which are given to the public in these volumes, extend over an interval commencing with 1782, and ending with 1800. In that interval events occurred which can never lose their interest as incidents in the history of England. The Coalition Ministry and its dismissal by the King — the resistance of the Sovereign and Pitt to the efforts of the discarded ministers to force themselves again into office — the great con- HURST AND BLACKETT S NEW PUBLICATIONS. THE COURT AND CABINETS OF GEORGE III. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS CONTINUED. stitutional question of the Regency which arose upon the King's disastrous malady — the contest upon that question between the heir apparent and the ministers of the Crown — the breaking out of the French Revolution, and the consequent entrance of England upon the great European war, — these, with the union with Ireland, are political movements every detail of which possesses the deepest interest. In these volumes, details, then guarded with the most anxious care from all eyes but those of the privileged few, are now for the first time given to the public. The most secret history of many of the transactions is laid bare. It is not possible to conceive contemporary history more completely exemplitied. From such materials it was not i)ossible to form a work that would not possess the very highest interest. The Duke of Buckingham has, however, moulded his materials with no ordinary abihty and skill. The connecting narrative is written both with judgment and vigour — not unfrequently in a style that comes up to the highest order of historical compositian — especially in some of the sketches of personal character. There is scarcely a single individual of celebrity throughout the period from 1782 to 1800 who is not introduced into these pages ; amongst others, besides the King and the various members of the royal family, are Rock- ingham, Shelburne, North, Thurlow, Loughborough, Fox, Pitt, Sheridan, Burke, Portland, Sydney, Fitzwilliam, Tierney, Buckingham, Grenville, Grey, Malmes- bury, Wilbei-force.Burdett, Fitzgibbon, Grattan, Flood, Coruwallis, the Beresfords, the Ponsonbys, the Wellesleys, &c." — Morning Herald. " These memoirs are among the most valuable materials for history that have recently been brought to light out of the archives of any of our great families. The period embraced by the letters is from the beginning of 1782 to the close of 1799, comprising the last days of the North Administration, the brief life of the Rockingham, and the troubled life of the Shelburne Ministry, the stormy career of the Coalition of '83, the not less stormy debates and intrigues which broke out on the tirst insanity of the King, the gradual modifications of Pitt's first Ministry, and the opening days of the struggle with France after her first great revolution. Of these the most valuable illustrations concern the motives of Fox in withdrawing from Shelburne and joining with North against him, the desperate intriguing and deliberate bad faith of the King exerted against the Coalition, and the profligacy and heartlessness of the Prince of Wales and his brother all through the Regency debates. On some incidental subjects, also, as the affairs of Ireland, the Warren Hastings trial, the Fitzgerald outbreak, the Union, the sad vicissitudes and miseries of the last days of the old French monarchy, &c., the volumes supply illustrative facts and comments of much interest." — Examiner. " This valuable contribution to the treasures of historic lore, now for the first time produced from the archives of the Buckingham family displays the action of the different parties in the State, throws great light on the personal character of the King, as well as on the share which he took in the direction of public affairs, and incidentally reveals many facts hitherto but imperfectly known or altogether unknown. In order to render the contents of the letters more intelligible, the noble Editor has, with great tact and judgment, set them out in a kind of historical framework, in which the leading circumstances under which they were written are briefly indicated — the result being a happy combination of the completeness of historical narrative with the freshness of original thought and of contemporaneous record." — John Bull. " These volumes are a treasure for the politician, and a mine of wealth for the historian." — Britannia. HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. LOEl) GEORGE BENTINCK A POLITICAL BIOGRAPHY. BT THE EIGHT HON. B. DISRAELI, M.P. Fifth and Cheaper Editiox, Revised. Post 8vo. 10s. Gd. From Blackwood's Magazine. — " This biography cannot fail to attract the deep attention of the public. We are bound to say, that as a political biography we have rarely, if ever, met with a book more dexterously handled, or more replete with interest. The history of the famous session of 184G, as written by Disraeli in that brilliant and pointed style of which he is so consummate a master, is deeply interesting. He has traced this memorable struggle with a vivacity and power unequalled as yet in any narrative of Parliamentary proceedings." From The Dublin University Magazine. — " A political biography of Lord George Bentinck by Mr. Disraeli must needs be a work of interest and importance. Either the subject or the writer would be sufficient to invest it with both — the combination surrounds it with peculiar attractions. In this most interesting volume Mr. Disraeli has produced a memoir of his friend in which he has combined the warmest enthusiasm of affectionate attachment with the calmness of the critic." From The Morning Herald — " Mr. Disraeli's tribute to the memory of his departed friend is as graceful and as touching as it is accurate and impartial. No one of Lord George Bentinck's colleagues could have been selected, who, from his high literary attainments, his personal intimacy, and party associations, would have done such complete justice to the memory of a friend and Parlia- mentary associate. Mr. Disraeli has here presented us with the very type and embodiment of what history should be. His sketch of the condition of parties is seasoned with some of those piquant personal episodes of party manoeuvres and private intrigues, in the author's hajtpiest and most captivating vein, which convert the dry details of politics into a sparkling and agreeable narrative." LOED PALMERSTON'S OPINIONS AND POLICY; AS MINISTER, DIPLOMATIST, AND STATESMAN, DURING MORE THAN FORTY Y'EARS OF PUBLIC LIFE. 1 V. 8vo., with Portrait, 12s. "This work ought to have a place in every political library. It gives a com- plete view of the sentiments and opinions by which the policy of Lord Palmerston has been dictated as a diplomatist and statesman." — Chronicle. " This is a remarkable and seasonable publication ; but it is something more — it is a valuable addition to the historical treasures of our country during more than forty of the most memorable years of our annals. We earnestly recommend the volume to general perusal." — Standard. 4 HURST AND BLACKETT S NEW PUBLICATIONS. TllF. LIFE OF MAKIE DE MEDICIS, QUEEN OF FRANCE, CONSORT OF HENRY IV., AND REGENT UNDER LOUIS XIIL BY MISS PAKDOE, Author of "Louis XIV. and the Court of France, in the 17th Century," &c. Second Edition. 3 large vols. 8vo., with Fine Portraits. " A fascinating book. The history of such a woman as the beautiful , impulsive, earnest, and atTectionate Marie de Medicis could only be done justice to by a feniiile pen, iiiii)elled by all the sympathies of womanhood, but strengthened by an erudition by wliicli it is not in every case accompanied. In Miss Pardoe the unfortunate Queen has found both these requisites, and the result has been a biography combining the .attractiveness of romance with the reliableness of his- tory, and which, taking a place midway between the ' frescoed galleries' of Thierry, and the 'philosophic watch-tower of Guizot,' hasall the pictorial brilliancy of the one, with much of the reflective speculation of the other." — Daily Netvs. " A valuable, well-written, and elaborate biography, displaying an unusual amount of industry and research." — Morning Chronicle. "A careful and elaborate historical com])osition, rich in personal anecdote. Nowhere can a more intimate acquaintance be obtained with the principal events and leading personages of the first half of the 17th century." — Morning Post. " A work of high literary and historical merit. Rarely have the strange vicissitudes of romance been more intimately blended with the facts of real history than in the life of Marie de Medicis ; nor has the difficult problem of combining with the fidelity of biography the graphic power of dramatic delineation been often more successfully solved than by the talented author of the volumes before us. As a personal narrative. Miss Pardoe's admirable biography possesses the most absorbing and constantly sustained interest ; as a historical record of the events of which it treats, its merit is of no ordinary description." — John Bull. " A life more dramatic than that of Marie de Medicis has seldom been written ; one more imperially tragic, never. The period of French history chosen by Miss Pardoe is rich in all maimer of associations, and brings together the loftiest names and most interesting events of a stirring and dazzling epoch. She has been, moreover, exceedingly fortunate in her materials. A manuscript of the Com- mandeur de Rambure, Gentleman of the Bedchamber under the Kings Henry IV., Louis XIII., and Louis XIV., consisting of the memoirs of the writer, with all the most memorable events which took place during the reigns of those three Majesties, from the year 1594 to that of 1660, was placed at her disposal by M. de la Plane, Member of the Institut Royal de la France. This valuable record is very voluminous, and throws a flood of light on every transaction. Of this important document ample use has been judiciously made by Miss Pardoe; and her narrative, accordingly, has a fulness and particularity possessed by none other, and which adds to the dramatic interest of the subject. The work is very elegantly written, and will be read with delight. It forms another monument to the worthiness of female intellect in the age we live in." — Illustrated News HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. MEMOIRS OF THE B A E N E S S 1) ' B E R K I R C H, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE SECRET HISTORY OF THE COURTS OF FRANCE, RUSSIA, AND GERMANY. "WRITTEN BY HERSELF, And Edited by Her Grandson, the Count de Montbrison. 3 vols. Post 8vo. 31s. 6d. The Baroness d'Oberkirch, being the intimate friend of the Empress of Russia, wife of Paul I., and the confidential companion of the Duchess of Bourbon, her facilities for obtaining information respecting the most private affairs of the principal Courts of Europe, render her Memoirs unrivalled as a book of interest- ing anecdotes of the royal, noble, and other celebrated individuals who flourished on the continent during the latter part of the last century. Among the royal per- sonages introduced to the reader in this work, are Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Philip Egalite, and all the Princes of France then living— Peter the Great, the Empress Catherine, the Emperor Paul, and his sons Coustantine and Alexander, of Russia — Frederick the Great and Prince Henry of Prussia — The Emperor Joseph II. of Austria— Gustavus III. of Sweden — Princess Christina of Saxony — Sobieski, and Czartoriski of Poland — and the Princes of Brunswick and Wurtem- berg. Among the remarkable persons are the Princes and Princesses de Lamballe, de Eigne and Galitzin — the Dukes and Duchesses de Choiseul, de Mazarin, de Boufflers, de la Valliere, de Guiche, de Penthi^vre, and de Polignac — Cardinal de Rohan, Marshals Bii-on and d'Harcourt, Count de Staremberg, Baroness de Krudener, Madame Geoffrin, Talleyrand, Mirabeau, and Necker — with Count Cagliostro, Mesmer, Vestris, and Madame Mara; and the work also includes such literary celebrities as Voltaire, Condorcet, de la Harpe, de Beaumarchais, Rousseau, Lavater, Bernouiili, Raynal, de I'Epee, Huber, Gothe, Wieland, Male- sherbes, Marmontel, de Stael and de Genlis ; with some singular disclosures respecting those celebrated Englishwomen, Elizabeth Chudleigh, Duchess of Kingston, and Lady Craven, Margravine of Anspach. " The Baroness d'Oberkirch, whose remarkable Memoirs are here given to the public, saw much of courts and courtiers, and her Memoirs are tilled with a variety of anecdotes, not alone of lords and ladies, but of emperors and empresses, kings and queens, and reigning princes and princesses. As a picture of society anterior to the French Revolution, the hook is the latest and most pertett production of its kind extant ; and as such, besides its minor value as a book of amusement, it possesses a major value iis a work of information, which, in the interest of historical truth, is, without exaggeration, almost incalculable." — Observer. "Thoroughly genuine and unaffected, these Memoirs display the whole mind of a woman who was well worth knowing, and relate a large part of her experience among people with whose names and characters the world will be at all times busy. A keen observer, and by position thiown in the high places of the world, the Baroness d'Oberkirch was the very woman to write Memoirs that would interest future generations. We commend these volumes most heartily to every reader They are a perfect magazine of pleasant anecdotes and interesting characteristic things. We lay down these charming volumes with regret. They will entertain the most fastidious readers, and instruct the most informed." — Examiner. "An intensely interesting autobiography." — Morning C/irunicle. " A valuable addition to the personal history of an important period. The volumes deserve general popularity." — Daily News. " One of the most interesting pieces of contemporary history, and one of the richest collections of remarkable anecdotes and valuable reminiscences ever produced." — John Bull. HURST AND BLACKETTS NEW PUBLICATIONS. MEMOIRS or JOHN ABEMETIIY, P.E.S., WITH A VIEW OF HIS WRITINGS, LECTUUES, AND CHARACTER. BY GEOBGE MACIL\^AIN, F.R.C.S., Author of " Medicine and Surgery One Inductive Science," &c. Second Edition. 2 v. post 8vo., with Portrait. 21s. " A memoir of high professional and general interest." — Morning Post. " These memoirs convey a graphic, and, we believe, faithful picture of the celebrated John Al)ernethy. The volumes are written in a jjopular style, and will afford to the general reader much instruction and entertainment." — Herald. ♦' This is a book which ought to be read by every one. The professional man will tind in it the career of one of the most illustrious professors of medicine of our own or of any other age — the student of intellectual science the progress of a truly profound philosopher — and all, the lesson afforded by a good man's life. Abernetby's memory is worthy of a good biographer, and happily it has found one. Mr. Macilwain vn-ites well; and evidently, in giving the history of his deceased friend, he executes a labour of love. The an-angement of his matter is excellent : so ha])i)ily interwoven with narrative, anecdotes, often comical enough, and de?p reflection, as to carrj' a reader forward irresistibly." — Standard. THE LITERATURE AND ROMANCE OF NORTHERN EUROPE: CONSTITUTING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE LITERATURE OF SWEDEN, DENMARK, NORWAY, AND ICELAND, WITH COPIOUS SPECIMENS OF THE MOST CELEBRATED HISTORIES, ROMANCES, POPULAR LEGENDS AND TALES, OLD CHIVALROUS BALLADS, TRAGIC AND COMIC DRAMAS, NATIONAL SONGS, NOVELS, AND SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE PRESENT DAY. BY "WILLIAM AIsTD MARY HCWITT. 2 vols. 21s. " English readers have h^ng been indebted to Mr. and Mrs. Howitt. They have now increased our obligations by presenting us with this most charming and valuable work, by means of which the great majority of the reading public will be, for the first time, made acquainted with the rich stores of intellectual wealth long garnered in the literature and beautiful romance of Northern Europe. From the famous Edda, whose origin is lost in antiquity, down to the novels of Miss Bremer and Baroness Knorring, the prose and poetic writings of Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Iceland are here introduced to us in a manner at once singularly comprehensive and concise. It is no dry enumeration of names, but the very marrow and spirit of the various works displayed before us. We have old ballads and fairy tales, always fascinating ; we have scenes from plays, and selections from the poets, with most attractive biographies of great men. The songs and ballads are translated with exquisite poetic beauty." — Sun. " A book full of information — and as such, a welcome addition to our literature. The translations — especially of some of the ballads and other poems — are exe- cuted with spirit and taste." — Athen