V'V 

 
 SPECIAL COLLECTIONS 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES

 
 
 
 
 *- - 
 
 , i ,. * 1 


 
 THE 
 
 COOK'S OWN BOOK: 
 
 BEING A COMPLETE 
 
 CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA: 
 
 COMPREHENDING ALL VALUABLE RECEIPTS 
 
 FOR COOKING MEAT, FISH, AND FOWL, 
 
 AND COMPOSING EVERT KIND OF 
 
 SOUP, GRAVY, PASTRY, PRESERVES, ESSENCES, &c. 
 
 THAT HAVE BEEN PUBLISHED OR INVENTED 
 
 DURING THE LAST TWENTY YEARS. 
 
 PARTICULARLY THE VERT BEST OF THOSE IN THE 
 
 COOK'S ORACLE, COOK'S DICTIONARY, AND OTHER SYSTEMS OF 
 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 
 
 WITH 
 
 NUMEROUS ORIGINAL RECEIPTS, 
 
 AMD A COMPLETE SYSTEM OF 
 
 CONFECTIONERY. 
 
 BY A BOSTON HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED. 
 
 PUBLISHED 
 IN BOSTON, BY MUNROE AND FRANCIS ; ' 
 
 NEW YORK, BY CHARLES S. FRANCIS, AND DAVID FELT; PHILADLi .,..1 
 BY CAKEY AND LEA, AND GRIGG AND ELLIOT. 
 
 1832.
 
 Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1832, by 
 
 MCNROE & FRANCIS, 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THE cook exercises a greater power over the public health and 
 welfare than the physician, and if he should be a charlatan in his art, 
 alas ! for his employers. Hitherto, or until of late years, the cook 
 has had to educate himself, while the physician appropriates all the 
 knowledge of antiquity, and of every succeeding age; his individual 
 cases are all classed according to general principles, while the rules 
 that have regulated the preparation of our food, have been discordant 
 and unnatural. In the present age, indeed, cookery has been raised 
 to the dignity of an art, and sages have given their treatises to the 
 world. Very has a monument in the cemetery of Pre La Chaise, 
 among the tombs of warriors, poets, and philosophers, recording of 
 his life that 'it was consecrated to the useful arts.' Virgil however, 
 writes that the best delights of Elysium were showered upon those 
 who received wounds for their country, who lived unspotted priests, 
 who uttered verses worthy of Apollo, or who, like V3ry, consecrated 
 their lives to the useful arts. On the utilitarian principle the cook 
 should be much elevated in public estimation, and were he to form a 
 strict alliance with the physician, the patriarchal ages would return, 
 and men would die of nothing but sheer old age. 
 
 After insanity, the most grievous affliction of Providence, or rather 
 of improvidence and imprudence, is Dyspepsy : a malady that under 
 different names has decimated the inhabitants of civilized countries, 
 and of almost all countries, in which man is a 'cooking dnimal.' To 
 the dyspeptic, the sun has no cheering ray, the air no elasticity or 
 balm ; the flowers are without fragrance, music is without melody, 
 and beauty without charms. Life is a blank ; affection has lost its 
 power to soothe, and the blessings scattered by Providence, are con- 
 verted into ministers of torment. Food becomes a bane ; the very 
 staff that supports life, gives the flagellation that renders life a curse. 
 All that can delight is lost, but all that can depress and sting, has a 
 tenfold activity and power.
 
 IV PREFACE. 
 
 \ 
 
 The dyspeptic's ' May of life, has fallen into the sear, the yellow 
 leaf.' Sleep that should visit every pillow but that of guilt, is to him 
 no friend ; if he slumbers, it is to dream, like Clarence, of hideous 
 forms of suffering, and to wake to their reality. This is but a faint 
 picture of Dyspepsy. 
 
 ' Her gloomy presence saddens all the scene, 
 Shades every flower and darkens every green, 
 Deepens the murmur of the falling floods, 
 And breathes a browner horror on the woods.' 
 
 This malady is beyond the science of the physician, but within the 
 art of the cook ; in the proverb, Doctor Diet is ranked above Doctor 
 Quiet and Doctor Merryman ; though all are good. 
 
 The late Mr. Abernethy referred almost all maladies to the stom- 
 ach, and seldom prescribed any remedy but a proper diet. This it is 
 the province of the cook to provide ; and the design of this book to 
 indicate. The work is not designed to spread a taste for pernicious 
 luxuries: and every recipe has been sanctioned by custom. The 
 responsibility of the cook is lightened, and his duty facilitated. He 
 has here a dictionary of reference, an encyclopedia of his art. The 
 details are full, and the authority is perfect. There were various 
 works of merit that it was useful for the cook to study, but here are 
 collected ihe best parts of all, with the convenience of alphabetical 
 arrangement, and in the compass of a moderate volume. If it is a 
 sin to waste the best gifts of Providence, it should be little less than 
 a felony to spoil them. When we have collected the materials for a 
 house, we never trust the building to an unskilful architect: yet we 
 are often obliged to commit the preparation of our feasts as well as 
 of our common food, to agents without knowledge. This knowledge 
 is now supplied. 
 
 More than health depends on the proper preparation of food : our 
 very virtues are the creatures of circumstances, and many a man has 
 hardened his heart, or given up a good resolution, under the operation 
 of indigestion. Who that knows the world, ever solicits with confi- 
 dence a friendly or charitable act of another before dinner. 
 
 The natural and moral world are reciprocally dependent ; soul and 
 body are so linked, that when one loses its tone the other is deprived 
 of its equanimity. The system of morals therefore becomes identi- 
 fied with that of cookery, and the great English moralist, who was 
 learned in both systems, thus spoke of the connexion ; ' Some peo- 
 ple ' said Doctor Johnson, ' have a foolish way of not minding, or of 
 pretending not to mind, what they eat. I for my part mind my belly 
 very studiously, and very carefully, and I look upon it that he who 
 does not mind his belly will hardly mind any thing else.'
 
 PREFACE. V 
 
 It has been the study of the author, to make every recipe plain, 
 and the proportions certain ; little is left to discretion, that could be 
 reduced to measure. The system of confectionery is perfect ; and if 
 strictly followed every cook may become a first rate confectioner. 
 Labor, care, and expense have been bestowed upon the work, and the 
 publishers feel so secure of its merit, and of the public want of such a 
 took, that they have caused it to be stereotyped. This would have 
 been hazardous with a novel or almost any literary work ; but the 
 n umber of those who eat is far greater than of those who read. A 
 good book few can estimate; all can enjoy a good dinner, and the 
 publishers anticipate a proportionate encouragement. 
 
 Having devised this work for families, we hope that it may offend 
 no one, that we give a word of counsel to domestics: our book may 
 be every way good, yet will its usefulness be much impaired if do- 
 mestics are not docile and faithful. 
 
 We have fortunately, in this country, but one class of people : all 
 are free, and all are politically equal. Our domestics are in New 
 England designated as help, to indicate that they are the equals, and 
 assistants, rather than the inferiors of their employers. Yet the 
 feeling of independence may be carried too far, and it may be ungra- 
 ciously expressed. There is no disgrace, and there should be no 
 shame in filling well a subordinate station; the hired ploughman, 
 maid, or cook are not, in an offensive sense, any more the servants of 
 their employers, than the merchant and the lawyer. All these engage 
 to perform certain services for an equivalent, and it is the duty of all 
 to do them faithfully. 
 
 The number of domestics is very large perhaps the average is 
 five to four families and it may be even greater. Yet, unfortunate- 
 ly for their welfare, interest, or character, they are almost constantly 
 shifting, and in few families do they remain long. In England, a 
 good domestic is often provided for during life, and it is a desirable 
 situation. It might be so here, if our domestics would strive to ac- 
 commodate themselves to their situation. There is hardly a family, 
 in which a kind, respectful, and faithful domestic might not be retained 
 for years, and at the best wages. Here then is a home, comfort, and 
 friends. Yet the greater number are contented to live a few month.* 
 in a place, till the best years of life have slipped away, without pro- 
 vision for age, and without friends, or home. The proverb of the 
 rolling stone contains the best lesson for domestics. 
 
 Service in any department is no sacrifice of independence. A 
 domestic is in all things as free as any other class, but it is ,. 
 bad kind of independence that would lead one, when desired to do .
 
 VI PREFACE. 
 
 thing in the line of a common employment, to do it ungraciously, 
 and rather as an irksome or unjust task, than as a duty. 
 
 Minor vexations, frequently repeated, are equal to greater individ- 
 ual calamities ; as many small enjoyments constitute much of the 
 pleasures of life. Around the social board every member of the fam- 
 ily is collected thrice at least in twenty-four hours. Thither the 
 head of the family returns from the labors or cares of his business to 
 recruit his strength and to relax his mind. If he return to a table 
 constantly and invariably ill spread ; to a dinner to which he could 
 invite no friend, and in which he can have no enjoyment; a cloud 
 will gather on the calmest brow, and a feeling of dissatisfaction may 
 be extended to other things. It is not beneath the solicitude of a 
 good wife, who would not suffer any abatement in the affection of 
 which she is the object, diligently to study this book, and constantly 
 to provide a neat and well dressed repast. 
 
 BOSTON, March, 1832. 
 
 * 4S .* The articles which follow, on Roasting, Boiling, Sfc. are 
 selected from the Cook's Oracle.
 
 MANAGEMENT OF FAMILIES. 
 
 IN* domestic arrangement the table is entitled to no small share 
 of attention, as a well r.in<lurt<'tl <v-tem of domestic management 
 is the foundation of ev< r\- comfort; and the respectability and 
 welfare of families depend in a great measure on the prudent 
 conduct of the female, whose province it is to manage the domes- 
 tic concerns. 
 
 Hmvever the fortunes of individuals may support a large expen- 
 diture, it will be deficient in all that can benefit or grace society, 
 and in every thing essential to moral order and rational happiness, 
 if not conducted on a regular system, embracing all the objects 
 of such a situation. 
 
 In domestic management, as in education, so much must depend 
 on the particular circumstances of every case, that it is impossibly 
 to lay d )\> 11 a svstem which can be generally applicable. 
 
 The immediate plan of every family must be adapted to its own 
 peculiar situation, and can only result from the good sense and 
 early good habits of the parties, acting upon general rational 
 principles. 
 
 What one family is to do, must never be measured by what 
 another family does. Each one knows its own resources, and 
 should consult them alone. What might be meanness in one, 
 might be extravagance in another, and therefore there can be no 
 standard of reference but that of individual prudence. The most 
 fatal of all things to private families, is to indulge an ambition to 
 make an appearance above their fortunes, professions, or business, 
 whatever these may be. 
 
 The next point, both for comfort and respectability, is, that all 
 the household economy should be uniform, not displav ing a parade 
 of show in one thing, and a total want of comfort in another. Be- 
 sides the contemptible appearance that this must have to every 
 person of good sense, it is productive of consequences, not only of 
 present, but future injury to a family, that are too often irreparable. 
 
 In urea! cities in particular, how common is it that for the vani- 
 ty of having a showy drawing-room to receive company, the family 
 are confined to aclose'back room, where they have scarcely either 
 air or light, the want of which must materially prejudice their 
 health. 
 
 To keep rooms for show, where the fortune is equal to having 
 a hou~e that will accommodate the family properly, and admit of 
 this also, belongs to the 'ni^ln^t sphere of life; but in private fam- 
 ilies, to shut up the only room perhaps in the house which is really 
 wholesome for the family to live in, is inflicting a kind of lingering
 
 Vlll FAMILY MANAGEMENT. 
 
 murder upon the inmates; and yet how frequently this considera- 
 tion escapes persons who mean well by their family, but who still 
 have a grate, a carpet, and chairs, too fine for every day's use. 
 
 Another fruit of this evil is, seeing more company, and in a 
 more expensive manner than is compatible with the general con- 
 venience of the family, introducing with it an expense in dress, 
 and a dissipation of time, from which it suffers in various ways. 
 
 Social intercourse is not improved by parade, but quite the 
 contrary; real friends, and the pleasantest kind of acquaintance, 
 those who like to be sociable, are repulsed by it. It is a failure 
 therefore every way the loss of what is really valuable, and an 
 abortive attempt to be fashionable. 
 
 A fundamental error in domestic life of very serious extent, 
 involving no less the comfort than the health of the family, arises 
 from the ignorance or mistaken notions of the mistress of the house 
 upon the subjects of diet and cookery. 
 
 The subject of cookery is thought by too many women to be 
 below their attention, or, when practically engaged in, it is with 
 no other consideration about it than, in the good housewife's 
 phrase, to make the most of every thing, whether good, bad, or 
 indifferent; or to contrive a thousand mischievous compositions, 
 both savory and sweet, to recommend their own ingenuity. 
 
 If cookery is worth studying, as a sensual gratification, it is 
 surely much more so as a means of securing one of the greatest of 
 human blessings good health; and we cannot quit this part of the 
 subject of domestic management without observing, that one cause 
 of a great deal of injurious cookery originates in the same vanity 
 of show that is productive of so many other evils. In order to 
 set out a table with a greater number of dishes than the situation 
 of the family requires, more cookery is often undertaken than 
 there are servants to do it well, or conveniences in the kitchen for 
 the purpose. Thus some viands are done before they are wanted 
 for serving up, and stand by spoiling, to make room for others; 
 these are again perhaps to be succeeded by something else; and 
 too often are things served up that had better be thrown away, 
 than to be used for food. 
 
 The leading consideration about food ought always to be its 
 wholesomeness. Cookery may produce savory and pretty looking 
 dishes without their possessing any of the qualities of food. It is 
 at the same time both a serious and ludicrous reflection that it 
 should be thought to do honor to our friends and ourselves to set 
 out a table where indigestion and all its train of evils, such as 
 fever, rheumatism, gout, and the whole catalogue of human dis- 
 eases lie lurking in almost every dish. Yet this is both done, and 
 taken as a compliment. We have indeed the " unbought grace 
 of polished society, where gluttony loses half its vice by being 
 stripped of its grossness." When a man at a public house dies of 
 a surfeit of beef steak and porter, who does not exclaim, what a 
 beast!
 
 COOKING UTENSILS. IX 
 
 How infinitely preferable is a dinner of far less show where 
 nobody need be afraid of what they are eating! and such a one 
 will be genteel and respectable. If a person can give his friend 
 only a leg of mutton, there is nothing to be ashamed of in it, pro- 
 vided it is a good one, and well dressed. 
 
 A house fitted up with plain good furniture, the kitchen fur- 
 nished with clean wholesome-looking cooking utensils, good fires, 
 in grates that give no anxiety lest a good fire should spoil them, 
 clean good table linen, the furniture of the table and sideboard 
 good of the kind, without ostentation, and a well-dressed plain 
 dinner, bespeak a sound judgment and correct taste in a private 
 family, that place it on a footing of respectability with the first 
 characters in the country. It is only the conforming to our sphere, 
 not the vainly attempting to be above it, that can command true 
 respect. 
 
 COOKING UTENSILS. 
 
 The various utensils used for the preparation and keeping of 
 food are made either of metal, glass, pottery ware, or wood; each 
 of which is better suited to some particular purposes than the 
 others. Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many uses, and the 
 knowledge of this is necessary to the preservation of health in 
 general, and sometimes to the prevention of immediate dangerous 
 consequences. 
 
 The metals commonly used in the construction of these vessels 
 are silver, copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver is prefera- 
 ble to all the others, because it cannot be dissolved by any of the 
 substances used as food. Brimstone unites with silver, and forms 
 a thin brittle crust over it, that gives it the appearance of being 
 tarnished, which may be accidentally taken with food; but this 
 is not particularly unwholesome, nor is it liable to be taken often, 
 nor in large quantities. The discoloring of silver spoons used 
 with eggs arises from the brimstone contained in eggs. Nitre or 
 saltpetre has also a slight effect upon silver, but nitre and silver 
 seldom remain long enough together in domestic uses to require 
 any particular caution. 
 
 Copper and brass are both liable to be dissolved by vinegar, 
 acid fruits, and pearl-ash. Such solutions are highly poisonous, 
 and great caution should be used to prevent accidents of the kind. 
 Vessels made of these metals are generally tinned, that is, lined 
 with a thin coating of a mixed metal, containing both tin and lead. 
 Neither acids, nor any thing containing pearl-ash, should ever be 
 suffered to remain above an hour in vessels of this kind, as the 
 tinning is dissolvable by acids, and the coating is seldom perfect 
 over the surface of the copper or brass. 
 
 The utensils made of what is called block tin are constructed 
 of iron plates coated with tin. This is equally to be dissolved as 
 the tinning of copper or brass vessels, but iron is not an unwhole-
 
 X DIET. 
 
 some substance, if even a portion of it should be dissolved and 
 mixed in the food. Iron is therefore one of the safest metals for 
 the construction of culinary utensils; and the objection to its more 
 extensive use only rests upon its liability to rust, so that it requires 
 more cleaning and soon decays. Some articles of food, such as 
 quinces, orange peel, artichokes, &.c. are blackened by remaining 
 in iron vessels, which therefore must not be used for them. 
 
 Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, and should never be 
 used for milk and cream, if it be ever likely to stand till it become 
 sour. They are unsafe also for the purpose of keeping salted 
 meats. 
 
 The best kind of pottery ware is oriental china, because the 
 glazing is a perfect glass, which cannot be dissolved, and the 
 whole substance is so compact that liquid cannot penetrate it. 
 Many of the English pottery wares are badly glazed, and as the 
 glazing is made principally of lead, it is necessary to avoid put- 
 ting vinegar, and other acids into them. Acids and greasy sub- 
 stances penetrate into unglazed wares, excepting the strong stone 
 ware; or into those of which the glazing is cracked, and hence 
 give a bad flavor to any thing they are used for afterwards. They 
 are quite unfit therefore for keeping pickles or salted meats. 
 Glass vessels are infinitely preferable to any pottery ware but 
 oriental china, and should be used whenever the occasion admits 
 of it. 
 
 Wooden vessels are very proper for the keeping many articles 
 of food, and should always be preferred to those lined with lead. 
 If any substance has fermented or become putrid in a wooden 
 cask or tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to make it liable to 
 produce a similar effect upon any thing that may be put into it in 
 future. It is useful to char the insides of these wooden vessels 
 before they are used, by burning wood shavings in them, so as to 
 coat the insides with a crust of charcoal. 
 
 As whatever contaminates food in any way must be sure, from 
 the repetition of its baneful effects, to injure the health, a due 
 precaution with respect to all culinary vessels is necessary for its 
 more certain preservation. There is a kind of hollow iron ware 
 lined with enamel, which is superior to every other utensil for 
 sauces or preserves: indeed it is preferable for every purpose. 
 
 DIET. 
 
 That we require food, as vegetables require water, to support 
 our existence, is the primary consideration upon which we should 
 take it. But in our general practice of eating, it cannot be said, 
 "we eat to live," but are living passages or channels, through 
 which we are constantly propelling both solids and fluids, for the 
 sake of pleasing our palates, at the severe cost often of our whole 
 system.
 
 DIET. XI 
 
 A reasonable indulgence in the abundant supplies of nature, 
 converted by art to the purposes of wholesome food, is one of the 
 comforts added to the maintenance of life. It is an indiscriminate 
 gratification of our tastes, regardless of the consequences that 
 may ensue from it, that is alone blamable. But so great is our 
 general apathy in these respects, .that even on the occurrence of 
 diseases, from which we are all more or less sufferers, we scarce- 
 ly ever reflect on our diet, as the principal, if not the sole cause 
 of them. We assign them to weather, to infection, to hereditary 
 descent, to spontaneous breeding, as if a disease could originate 
 without a cause; or to any frivolous imaginary source, without 
 suspecting, or being willing to own, mismanagement of ourselves. 
 
 We derive the renewal of our blood and juices, which are con- 
 stantly exhausting, from the substances we take as food. As our 
 food, therefore, is proper or improper, too much or too little, so 
 will our blood and juices be good or bad, overcharged or deficient, 
 and our state of health accordingly good or diseased. 
 
 By aliment, or food, is to be understood whatever we eat or 
 drink, including seasonings; such as salt, sugar, spices, vinegar, 
 &c. Stc. Every thing, in short, which we receive into our sto- 
 machs. Our food, therefore, consists not only of such particles 
 as are proper for the nourishment and support of the human body, 
 but likewise contains certain active principles, viz. salts, oils, and 
 spirits, which have the properties of stimulating the solids, quick- 
 ening the circulation, and making the fluids thinner; thus render- 
 ing them more suited to undergo the necessary secretions of the 
 body. 
 
 The art of preserving health, and obtaining long life, therefore 
 consists in the use of a moderate quantity of such diet as shall 
 neither increase the salts and oils, so as to produce disease, nor 
 diminish them, so as to suffer the solids to become relaxed. 
 
 It is very difficult, almost impossible, to ascertain exactly what 
 are the predominant qualities either in our bodies or in the food 
 we eat. In practice, therefore, we can have no other rule but 
 observing by experience what it is that hurts or does us good; 
 and what it is our stomach can digest with facility, or the contrary. 
 But then we must keep our judgment unbiassed, and not suffer it 
 to become a pander to the appetite, and thus betray the stomach 
 and health, to indulge our sensuality. 
 
 The eating too little is hurtful, as well as eating too much. 
 Neither excess, nor hunger, nor any thing else that passes the 
 bounds of nature, can be good to man. 
 
 By loading tli<> stomach, fermentation is checked, and of course 
 dii_" <ti-tn iinjpadcd; for the natural juice of the stomach has not 
 mom to exert it-i !!', and it therefore nauseates its contents, is 
 ! v ' i:ition<, the spirits are oppressed, obstructions 
 ensue, and flier is the consequence. Besides, that when thus 
 overfilled, tlV stomach pre<se< on the diaphragm, prevents tho 
 proper plajf^the lungs, and occasions uneasiness in our breath-
 
 Xll DIET. 
 
 ing. Hence arise various ill symptoms and depraved effects 
 throughout the body, enervating the strength, decaying the senses, 
 hastening old age, and shortening life. Though these effects are 
 not immediately perceived, yet they are certain attendants of 
 intemperance; for it has been generally observed in great eaters, 
 that, though from custom, a state of youth, and a strong constitu- 
 tion, they have no present inconvenience, but have digested their 
 food, suffered surfeit, and borne their immoderate diet well ; if they 
 have not been unexpectedly cut off, they have found the symptoms 
 of old age come on early in life, attended with pains and innume- 
 rable disorders. 
 
 If we value our health, we must ever make it a rule not to eat 
 to satiety or fulness, but desist while the stomach feels quite easy. 
 Thus we shall be refreshed, light, and cheerful; not dull, heavy, 
 or indisposed. Should we ever be tempted to eat too much at one 
 time, we should eat the less at another. Thus, if our dinner has 
 been larger than usual, let our supper be less, or rather quite 
 omitted; for there is no man, however careful of his health, who 
 does not occasionally transgress in this way. 
 
 With regard to the times of eating, they must to a certain degree 
 be conformed to family convenience, but ought to be quite inde- 
 pendent of the caprices of fashion. The great things to be guard- 
 ed against are, either eating too soon after a former meal, or 
 fasting too long. The stomach should always have time to empty 
 itself before it is filled again. 
 
 Some stomachs digest their contents sooner than others, and if 
 long empty it may destroy the appetite, and greatly disturb both 
 the head and animal spirits; for, from the great profusion of nerves 
 spread upon the stomach, there is an immediate sympathy between 
 that and the head. Hence the head is sure to be affected by 
 whatever disorders the stomach, whether from any particular ali- 
 ment that disagrees with it, or being overfilled, or too long empty. 
 Such as feel a gnawing in the stomach, as it is called, should not 
 wait till the stated time of the next meal, but take a small quanti- 
 ty of light, easily digested food, that the stomach may have some- 
 thing to work on. 
 
 Young persons in health, who use much exercise, may eat three 
 times a day. But such as are in years, such as are weak, as do 
 no work, use no exercise, or lead a sedentary life, eating twice in 
 the day is sufficient ; or, as in the present habits of society, it might 
 be difficult to arrange the taking only two meals, let them take 
 three very moderate ones. Old and weak persons may eat often, 
 but then it should be very little at a time. 
 
 The quality of our food is a subject of greater difficulty than 
 the quantity; moderation is an invariably safe guide in the latter 
 instance; but though always favorable to prevent ill effects from 
 any error in quality, it will not always be effectual. 
 
 To a person in good health, with a strong stomach, and whose 
 constant beverage is water, cold or tepid, according to the sea-
 
 DIET. Xlll 
 
 son, or some aqueous liquor, the niceties of choice in food or 
 cookery are less material than to persons with naturally weak sto- 
 machs, or to those in sickness, or for children. But all persons 
 who would to a certainty preserve their health and faculties, and 
 live out the natural term of life, should use plain food, as all high 
 seasonings and compound mixtures have an injurious effect, soon- 
 er or later, on the strongest constitutions. If a few instances can 
 be quoted to the contrary, these, like other anomalies in nature, 
 cannot constitute an exception to a well established fact. 
 
 .No part of our aliment is more important than our beverage. 
 It is essential to moisten and convey our more solid food into the 
 stomach, and from thence to the respective parts of the body. To 
 allay thirst, to dilute the blood, that it may circulate through the 
 minutest vessels, to dissolve and carry off by the watery secre- 
 tions the superfluous salts we take in our food; to answer these 
 purposes no liquid is so effectual as pure water, with the exception 
 of some few cases. No other liquid circulates so well, or mixes so 
 immediately with our fluids. All other liquors are impregnated 
 \\itli particles which act strongly upon the solids or fluids, or both; 
 but water being simple, operates only by diluting, moistening, and 
 cooling, which are the great uses of drink pointed out to us by 
 nature. Hence it is evident that water is in general the best and 
 most wholesome drink; but some constitutions require something 
 to warm and stimulate the stomach, and then fermented liquors 
 taken in moderation are proper; such as beer, ale, cider, wine, 
 &.c. the choice and quantity of which depend on the age, consti- 
 tution, and manner of living of the drinker; and to have them 
 pun- is above. .all things essential; as otherwise, instead of being 
 of any benefit, they will be highly detrimental. 
 
 Drams, or (iisrilled spirituous liquors, the use of which is unhap- 
 pily very prevalent, are of the most poisonous qualities; and from 
 their direful effects are the destruction of thousands. From the 
 decree of heat they have undergone in distillation they acquire a 
 corrosive and burning qualij, which makes them as certain to 
 kill as laudanum |r arsenicjf hough not so soon. They contract 
 the fibres and oCThe body, especially where they are 
 
 the tenderest, as in fhe brain, and thus destroy the intellectual 
 faculties. They injure the coat of the stomach, and thus expose 
 tin- nerves and weaken the fibres till the whole stomach becomes 
 at last soft, flabby, and relaxed. From whence ensues loss of 
 appetite, indigestion, and diseases that generally terminate in 
 premature death. Spirituous liquors in any way, whether alone, 
 mixed with water, in punch, shrub, noyau, or other liqueurs, are 
 all slow poisons. 
 
 It would be endless to enter on an account of the different quali- 
 ties of all sorts of wines, but it may be said in general, that all 
 the light wines of a moderate strength, due age and maturity, are 
 more wholesome for the constitution than the rich, hot strong 
 
 B
 
 XIV BOILING. 
 
 heavy wines; for the light wines inflame the juices of the body 
 less and go off the stomach with less difficulty. 
 
 The last thing to be said concerning liquors is, that wine and 
 all other strong liquors, are as hard to digest as solid strong food. 
 This is not only evident with respect to persons of weak stomachs 
 and digestion, but also from strong healthy people, who only 
 drink either water or small beer at their meals, and are able to 
 eat and digest almost double the quantity of what they could if 
 they drank strong liquors. It appears very plain, therefore, that 
 we should not drink strong liquors at our meals, as by their heat 
 and activity they hurry the food undigested into the habit of the 
 body, and by that means lay a foundation for various distempers. 
 An abstinence, in short, from fermented liquors would preserve 
 our mental faculties in vigor, and our bodies from many painful 
 disorders that afflict mankind, as there is no doubt that we may 
 principally ascribe to them the gout, rheumatism, stone, cancer, 
 fevers, hysterics, lunacy, apoplexy, and palsy. 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 This most simple of culinary processes is not often performed in 
 perfection. It does not require quite so much nicety and atten- 
 dance as roasting ; to skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling 
 (the slower the better) all the while, to know how long is required 
 for doing the joint, &c., and to take it up at the critical moment 
 when it is done enough, comprehends almost the whole art and 
 mystery. This, however, demands a patient and perpetual vigi- 
 lance, of which few persons are capable. 
 
 The cook must take especial care that the water really boils all 
 the while she is cooking, or she will be deceived in the time ; and 
 make up a sufficient fire at first, to last all the time, without much 
 mending or stirring. A frugal cook will manage with much less 
 fire for boiling than she uses for roasting. 
 
 ^When the pot is coming to a boil there will always, from the 
 cleanest meat and clearest water, rise a' scum to the top of it, pro- 
 ceeding partly from the water ; this must be carefully taken off as 
 soon as it rises. 
 
 On this depends the good appearance of all boiled things. When 
 you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, which will throw 
 up the rest of the scum. 
 
 The oilener it is skimmed, and the cleaner the top of the water 
 is kept, the sweeter and the cleaner will be the meat. 
 - If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the meat, which, 
 instead of looking delicately white and nice, will have that coarse 
 and filthy appearance we have too often to complain of, and the 
 butcher and poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the cook 
 in not skimming her pot.
 
 BOILING. XV 
 
 Many put in milk, to make what they boil look white ; but this 
 does more harm than good : others wrap it up in a cloth ; but 
 these are needless precautions : if the scum be attentively removed, 
 meat will have a much more delicate color and finer flavor than it 
 has when muffled up. This may give rather more trouble, but 
 those who wish to excel in their art must only consider how the 
 processes of it can be most perfectly performed : a cook, who has 
 a proper pride and pleasure in her business, will make this her 
 maxim on all occasions. 
 
 It is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thickness, or, 
 before thicker parts are done enough, the thinner will be done too 
 much. 
 
 Put your meat into cold water, in the proportion of about a quart 
 of water to a pound of meat : it should be covered with water during 
 the whole of the process of boiling, but not drowned in it ; the less 
 water, provided the meat be covered with it, the more savory will 
 be the meat, and the better will be the broth. 
 
 The water should be heated gradually, according to the thick- 
 ness, &c. of the article boiled. For instance, a leg of mutton of 
 ten pounds weight should be placed over a moderate fire, which 
 will gradually make the water hot, without causing it to boil for 
 about forty minutes ; if the water boils much sooner, the meat will 
 be hardened, and shrink up as if it was scorched : by keeping the 
 water a certain time heating without boiling, the fibres of the meat 
 are dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken 
 off as soon as it rises. 
 
 The editor placed a thermometer in water in that state which 
 cooks call gentle simmering ; the heat was 212, i. e. the same 
 degree as the strongest boiling. 
 
 Two mutton chops were covered with cold water; one boiled a 
 gallop, while the other simmered very gently for three-quarters of 
 an hour* the chop which was slowly simmered was decidedly su- 
 perior to that which was boiled ; it was much tenderer, more juicy, 
 and much higher flavored. The liquor which boiled fast was in 
 like proportion more savory, and when cold had much more fat 
 on its surface. This explains why quick boiling renders meat - 
 hard, &.c., because its juices are extracted in a greater degree. 
 
 Reckon the time from its first coming to a boil. 
 
 The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat, we think rather 
 too little : the slower it boils, the tenderer, the plumper, and whiter 
 it will be. 
 
 For those who choose their food thoroughly cooked (which all 
 will who have any regard for their stomachs), twenty minutes to a 
 pound for fresh, and rather more for salted meat, will not be found 
 too much for gentle simmering by the side of the fire, allowing 
 more or less time, according to the thickness of the joint, and the 
 coldness of the weather : to know the state of which, let a ther- 
 mometer be placed in the pantry ; and when it falls below 40 , tell
 
 XVI BAKING. 
 
 your cook to give rather more time in both roasting and boiling, 
 always remembering, the slower it boils the better. 
 
 Without some practice it is difficult to teach any art ; and cooks 
 seem to suppose they must be right, if they put meat into a pot, 
 and set it over the fire for a certain time, making no allowance 
 whether it simmers without a bubble or boils a gallop. 
 
 Fresh-killed meat will take much longer time boiling than that 
 which has been kept till it is what the butchers call ripe; and long- 
 er in cold than in warm weather : if it be frozen, it must be thawed 
 before boiling as before roasting ; if it be fresh-killed, it will be 
 tough and hard, if you stew it ever so long, and ever so gently. 
 In cold weather, the night before the day you dress it, bring it into 
 a place of which the temperature is not less than 45 degrees of 
 Fahrenheit's thermometer. 
 
 The size of the boiling-pots should be adapted to what they are 
 to contain : the larger the saucepan the more room it takes upon 
 the fire, and a larger quantity of water requires a proportionate 
 increase of fire to boil it. 
 
 In small families we recommend block-tin saucepans, Sec. as 
 lightest and safest. If proper care is taken of them, and they are 
 well dried after they are cleaned, they are by far the cheapest ; 
 the purchase of a new tin saucepan being little more than the ex- 
 pense of tinning a copper one. 
 
 Let the covers of your boiling-pots fit close, not only to prevent 
 unnecessary evaporation of the water, but to prevent the escape 
 of the nutritive matter, which must then remain either in the meat 
 or in the broth ; and the smoke is prevented from insinuating itself 
 under the edge of the lid, and so giving the meat a bad taste. 
 
 If you let meat or poultry remain in the water after it is done 
 enough, it will become sodden, and lose its flavor. 
 
 Beef and mutton a little wider-done (especially very larg,e joints, 
 which will make the better hash or broil,) is not a great fault ; by 
 some people it is preferred ; but lamb, pork, and veal are uneata- 
 ble if not thoroughly boiled ; but do not over-do them. 
 
 A trivet or fish-drainer put on the bottom of the boiling-pot, rais- 
 ing the contents -about an inch and a half from the bottom, will 
 prevent that side of the meat which comes next the bottom from 
 being done too much, and the lower part of the meat will be as 
 delicately done as the other part ; and this will enable you to take 
 out the contents of the pot, without sticking a fork, &.c. into it. 
 If you have not a trivet, use four skewers, or a soup-plate laid the 
 wrong side upwards. 
 
 BAKING. 
 
 Baking is one of the cheapest and most convenient ways of 
 dressing a dinner in small families; and, I may say, that the oven 
 is often the only kitchen a poor man has, if he wishes to enjoy a 
 joint of meat.
 
 BAKING. XV11 
 
 I do not mean to deny the superior excellence of roasting to 
 baking; but some joints, when baked, so nearly approach to the 
 same when roasted, that I have known them to be carried to the 
 table, and eaten as such with great satisfaction. 
 
 Legs and loins of pork, legs of mutton, fillets of veal, and many 
 other joints, will bake to great advantage, if the meat be good; 
 I mean well-fed, rather inclined to be fat: if the meat be poor, no 
 baker can give satisfaction. 
 
 When baking a poor joint of meat, before it has been half 
 baked I have seen it start from the bone, and shrivel up scarcely 
 to be believed. 
 
 Besides those joints above mentioned, I shall enumerate a few 
 baked dishes which I can particularly recommend. 
 
 A pig, when sent to the baker prepared for baking, should have 
 its ears and tail covered with buttered paper properly fastened on, 
 and a bit of butter tied up in a piece of linen to baste the back 
 with, otherwise it will be apt to blister: with a proper share of 
 attention from the baker, I consider this way equal to a roasted 
 one. 
 
 A goose prepa'red the same as for roasting, taking care to have 
 it on a stand, and when half done to turn the other side upwards. 
 A duck the same. 
 
 A buttock of beef the following way is particularly fine. After 
 it has been in salt about a week, to be well washed, and put into 
 a brown earthen pan with a pint of water; cover the pan tight 
 with two or three thicknesses of cap or foolscap paper: never 
 cover anything that is to be baked with brown paper, the pitch 
 and tar that is in brown paper will give the meat a smoky, bad 
 taste: give it four or five hours in a moderately heated oven. 
 
 A ham (if not too old) put in soak for an hour, taken out and 
 wiped, a crust made sufficient to cover it all over, and baked in 
 a moderately heated oven, cuts fuller of gravy, and of a finer 
 flavor, than a boiled one. I have been in the habit of baking 
 small cod-fish, haddock, and mackerel, with a dust of flour, and 
 some bits of butter put on them; eels, when large and stuffed; 
 herrings and sprats, in a brown pan, with vinegar and a little 
 spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, prepared, the same as 
 for roasting, with a few pieces of butter, and a little drop of milk 
 put into the dish, and basted several times, will be found nearly 
 equal to roasting ; or cut it up, season it properly, put it into a 
 jar or pan, and cover it over and bake it in a moderate oven for 
 about three hours. In the same manner, I have been in the hab- 
 it of baking legs and shins of beef, ox cheeks, &c. prepared with 
 a seasoning of onions, turnips, &.c.:jthey will take about four 
 hours: let them stand till cold, to skim off the fat; then wa'rm it 
 up all together^ or part, as you may want it. 
 
 All these I have been in the habit of baking for the first families. 
 
 The time each of the above articles should take depends much 
 upon the state of the oven, and I do consider the baker a suf- 
 
 B*
 
 ROASTING. 
 
 ficient judge; if they are sent to him in time, he must be very 
 neglectful if they are not ready at the time they are ordered. 
 
 ROASTING. 
 
 Let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the chief 
 cardinal virtue of the kitchen; the first preparation for roasting 
 is to take care that the spit be properly cleaned with sand and 
 water; nothing else. When it has been well scoured with this, 
 dry it with a clean cloth. If spits are wiped clean as soon as the 
 meat is drawn from them, and while they are hot, a very little 
 cleaning will be required. The less the spit is passed through 
 the meat the better; and, before you spit it, joint it properly, es- 
 
 Recially necks and loins, that the carver may separate them easi- 
 / and neatly, and take especial care it be evenly balanced on 
 the spit, that its motion may be regular, and the fire operate 
 equally on each part of it; therefore, be provided with balancing- 
 skewers and cookholds, and see it is properly jointed. 
 
 Make up the fire in time; let it be proportioned to the dinner 
 to be dressed, and about three or four inches longer at each end 
 than the thing to be roasted, or the ends of the meat cannot be 
 done nice and brown. 
 
 A cook must be as particular to proportion her fire to the busi- 
 ness she has to do, as a chemist: the degree of heat most desira- 
 ble for dressing the different sorts of food ought to be attended 
 to with the utmost precision. 
 
 The fire that is but just sufficient to receive the noble sirloin 
 will parch up a lighter joint. 
 
 Never put meat down to a burned-up fire, if you can possibly 
 avoid it; but should the fire become fierce, place the spit at a 
 considerable distance, and allow a little more lime. 
 
 Preserve the fat, by covering it with paper, for this purpose 
 called. " kitchen-paper," and tie it on with fine twine; pins and 
 skewers can by no means be allowed; they are so many taps to 
 let out the gravy: besides, the paper often starts from them and 
 catches fire, to the great injury of the meat. 
 
 If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire should 
 be little and brisk: when you have a large joint to roast, make up 
 a sound, strong fire, equally good in every part, or your meat 
 cannot be equally roasted, nor have that uniform color which 
 constitutes the beauty of good roasting. 
 
 Give the fire a good stirring before you lay the joint down; 
 examine it from time to time while the spit is going round ; keep 
 it clear at the bottom, and take care there are no smoky coals in 
 the front, which will spoil the look and taste of the meat, and 
 hinder it from roasting evenly. 
 
 When the joint to be roasted is thicker at one end than the 
 other, place th^ qpit slanting, with the thickest part nearest the fire.
 
 ROASTING. XIX 
 
 Do not put meat too near the fire at first; the larger the joint, * 
 the farther it must be kept from the h're: if once it gets scorched, 
 the outside will become hard, and acquire a disagreeable, empyr- 
 eumatic taste ; and the fire being prevented from penetrating into 
 it, the meat will appear done before it is little more than half 
 done, besides losing the pale brown color, which it is the beauty 
 of roasted meat to have. 
 
 Be very careful to place the dripping-pan at such a distance 
 from the fire as just to catch the drippings: if it is too near, the 
 ashes will fall into it, and spoil the drippings. 
 
 If it is too far from the fire to catch them, you will not only lose 
 your drippings, but the meat will be blackened and spoiled by 
 the fetid smoke, which will arise when the fat falls on the live 
 cinders. , 
 
 A large dripping-pan is convenient for several purposes. It 
 should not be less than twenty-eight inches long and twenty inch- 
 es wide, and have a covered well on the side from the fire, to 
 collect the drippings; this will preserve them in the most delicate 
 state : in a pan of the above size you may set fried fish, and vari- 
 ous dishes, to keep hot. 
 
 The time meat will take roasting will vary according to the 
 time it has been kept, and the temperature of the weather; the 
 same weight will be twenty minutes or half an hour longer in 
 cold weather, than it will be in warm; and if fresh killed, than if 
 it 1ms been kept till it is tender. 
 
 Everybody knows the advantage of slow boiling. Slow roasting 
 is equally important. 
 
 It is difficult to give any specific rule for time; but if your fire 
 is made as before directed, your meat-screen sufficiently large to 
 guard what you are dressing from currents of air, and the meat 
 is not frosted, you cannot do better than follow the old general 
 rule of allowing rather more than a quarter of an hour to the 
 pound; a little more or less, according to the temperature of the 
 weather, in proportion as the piece is thick or thin, the strength 
 of the fire, the nearness of the meat to it, and the frequency with 
 which you baste it; the more it is basted the less time it will take, 
 as it keeps the meat soft and mellow on the outside, and the fire 
 acts with more force upon it. 
 
 Reckon the time, not to the hour when dinner is ordered, but 
 to the moment the roasts will be wanted. Supposing there are a 
 dozen people to sip soup and eat fish first, you may allow them 
 ten or fifteen minutes for the former, and about as long for the 
 latter, more or less, according to the temptations the " BON GOUT" 
 of these preceding courses has to attract their attention. 
 
 When the joint is half done, remove the spit and dripping-pan- 
 back, and stir tip your fire thoroughly, that it may burn clear and 
 bright lor the browning; when the steam from the meat draws to- 
 wards the fire, it is a sifrn of its bcinir dom- -M ii^h; but you will 
 be the best judge of that, from the time it ha.s been down, the
 
 XX FRYING. 
 
 strength of the fire you have used, and the distance your spit has 
 been from it. 
 
 Half an hour before your meat is done, make some gravy, and 
 just before you take it up, put it nearer the fire to brown it. If 
 you wish to froth it, baste it, and dredge it with flour carefully: 
 you cannot do this delicately nice without a very good light. 
 The common fault seems to be using too much flour. The meat 
 should have a fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance of 
 being covered with a paste. Those who are particular about the 
 froth use butter instead of drippings. 
 
 A good cook is as anxiously attentive to the appearance and 
 color of her roasts, as a young beauty is to her complexion at a 
 birthday ball. If your meat does not brown so much, or so even- 
 ly as you wish, take two ounces of glaze, i. e. portable soup, put 
 four table-spoonfuls of water, and let it warm and dissolve gradu- 
 ally by the side of the fire. This will be done in about a quarter 
 of an hour; put it on the meat equally all over with a paste-brush 
 the last thing before it goes to table. 
 
 Though roasting is one of the most common, and is generally 
 considered one of the most easy and simple processes of cook- 
 ery, it requires more unremitting attention to perform it perfect- 
 ly well than it does to make most made dishes. 
 
 That made dishes are the most difficult preparations, deserves 
 to be reckoned among the culinary vulgar errors; in plain roast- 
 ing and boiling it is not easy to repair a mistake once made; and 
 all the discretion and attention of a steady, careful cook, must 
 be unremittingly upon the alert. 
 
 FRYING. 
 
 Frying is often a convenient mode of cookery; it may be per- 
 formed by a fire which will not do for roasting or boiling; and by 
 the introduction of the pan between the meat and the fire, things 
 get more equally dressed. 
 
 The Dutch oven or bonnet is a very convenient utensil for small 
 things, and a very useful substitute for the jack, the gridiron, or 
 frying-pan. 
 
 A frying-pan should be about four inches deep, with a perfectly 
 flat and thick bottom, twelve inches long and nine broad, with 
 perpendicular sides, and must be half filled with fat: good frying 
 is, in fact, boiling in fat. To make sure that the pan is quite 
 clean, rub a little fat over it, and then make it warm, and wipe it 
 out with a clean cloth. 
 
 Be very particular in fryiug, never to use any oil, butter, lard, 
 or drippings, but what is quite clean, fresh, and tree from salt. 
 Any thing dirty spoils the look; any thing bad-tasted or stale, 
 spoils the flavor; and salt prevents its browning. 
 
 Fine olive oil is the most delicate for frying; but the best oil is 
 expensive, and bad oil spoils every thing that is dressed with it. 
 .
 
 PRYING. XXI 
 
 For general purposes, and especially for fish, clean fresh lard 
 is not near so expensive as oil or clarified butter, and does almost 
 as well. Butter often burns before you are aware of it; and what 
 you fry will get a dark and dirty appearance. 
 
 Dripping, if nicely clean and fresh, is almost as good as any 
 thing; if not clean, it may be easily clarified. Whatever fat you 
 use, after you have done frying, let it remain in the pan for a few 
 minutes, and then pour it through a sieve into a clean basin; it 
 will do three or four times as well as it did at first, t. e. if it has not 
 burned: but, the fat you have fried fish in must not be used for 
 any other purpose. 
 
 To know when the fat is of a proper heat, according to what 
 you are to fry, is the great secret in frying. 
 
 To fry fish, parsley, potatoes, or any thing that is watery, your 
 fire must be very clear, and the fat quite hot; which you may be 
 pretty sure of, when it has done hissing, and is still. We cannot 
 insist too strongly on this point: if the fat is not very hot, you 
 cannot fry fish either to a good color, or firm and crisp. 
 
 To be quite certain, throw a little bit of bread into the pan; if it 
 fries crisp, the fat is ready; if it burns the bread, it is too hot. 
 
 The fire under the pan must be clear and sharp, otherwise the 
 $ fat is so long before it becomes ready, and demands such attend- 
 ance to prevent the accident of its catching fire, that the patience 
 of cooks is exhausted, and they frequently, from ignorance or im- 
 patience, throw in what they are going to fry before the fat is half 
 hot enough. Whatever is so fried will be pale and sodden, and 
 offend the palate and stomachflfet less than the eye. 
 
 Have a good light to fry by, that you may see when you have 
 got the right color: a lamp fixed on a stem, with a loaded foot, 
 which has an arm that lengthens out, and slides up and down like 
 a reading candlestick, is a most useful appendage to kitchen fire- 
 places, which are very seldom light enough for the nicer opera- 
 tions of cookery. 
 
 After all, if you do not thoroughly drain the fat from what you 
 have fried, especially from those things that are full dressed in 
 bread crumbs, or biscuit powder, Stc., your cooking will do you 
 no credit. 
 
 The dryness of fish depends much upon its having been fried in 
 fat of a due degree of heat; it is then crisp and dry^in a few min- 
 utes alter it is taken out of the pan: when it is not, lay it on a soft 
 cloth before the fire, turning it occasionally, till it is. This will 
 sometimes take fifteen minutes: therefore, always fry fish as long 
 as this before you want them, for fear you may find this necessary. 
 
 To fry fish, see receipt to fry soles, which is the only circum- 
 stantial account of the process that has yet been printed. If the 
 cook will study it with a little attention, she must soon become an 
 accomplished frier. 
 
 Frying, though one of the most common of culinary operations, 
 is one that is least commonly performed perfectly well.
 
 XX11 BROILING. 
 
 BROILING. 
 
 Cleanliness is extremely essential in this mode of cookery. 
 
 Keep your gridiron quite clean between the bars, and bright on 
 the top: when it is hot, wipe it well with a linen cloth: just before 
 you use it, rub the bars with clean mutton-suet, to prevent the 
 meat from being marked by the gridiron. 
 
 Take care to prepare your fire in time, so that it may burn 
 quite clear: a brisk and clear fire is indispensable, or you cannot 
 give your meat that browning which constitutes the perfection of 
 this mode of cookery, and gives a relish to food it cannot receive 
 any other way. 
 
 The chops or slices should be from half to three-quarters of an 
 inch in thickness; if thicker, they will be done too much on the 
 outside before the inside is done enough. 
 
 Be diligently attentive to watch the moment that any thing is 
 done: never hasten any thing that is broiling, lest you make 
 smoke and spoil it. 
 
 Let the bars of the gridiron be all hot through, but yet not 
 burning hot upon the surface: this is the perfect and fine condition 
 of the gridiron. 
 
 As the bars keep away as much heat as their breadth covers, it 
 is absolutely necessary they should be thoroughly hot before the 
 thing to be cooked be laid on them. 
 
 The bars of gridirons should be made concave, and terminate in 
 a trough to catch the gravy and keep the fat from dropping into 
 the fire and making a smoke, which will spoil the broil. 
 
 Upright gridirons are the best, as they can be used at any fire 
 without fear of smoke; and the gravy is preserved in the trough 
 under them. 
 
 N. B. Broils must be brought to table as hot as possible ; set a 
 dish to heat when you put your chops on the gridiron, from whence 
 to the mouth their progress must be as quick as possible. 
 
 When the fire is not clear, the business of the gridiron may be 
 done by the Dutch oven or bonnet. 
 
 Take care to have a very clear, brisk fire; throw a little salt on 
 it; make the gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to prevent the fat 
 from dropping into the fire, and making a smoke. It requires 
 more practice and care than is generally supposed to do steaks to 
 a nicety; and for want of these little attentions, this very common 
 dish, which every body is supposed capable of dressing, seldom 
 comes to table in perfection. 
 
 Ask those you cook for, if they like it under, or thoroughly 
 done; and what accompaniments they like best; it is usual to put 
 a table-spoonful of ketchup, or a little minced eschalot, into a dish 
 before the fire; while you are broiling, turn the steak, &c. with a 
 pair of steak-tongs, it will be done in about tenor fifteen minutes; 
 rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up garnished with pickles 
 and finely-scraped horse-radish.
 
 BROTHS AND SOUPS. XX111 
 
 BROTHS AND SOUPS. 
 
 , The cook must pay continual attention to the condition of her 
 stew-pans, soup-kettles, &.c. which should be examined every time 
 they are used. The prudent housewife will carefully examine the 
 condition of them herself at least once a month. Their covers 
 also must be kept perfectly clean and well tinned, and the stew- 
 pans not only on the inside, but abotit a couple of inches on the 
 outside: many mischiefs arise from their getting out of repair; 
 and if not kept nicely tinned, all your good work will be in vain; 
 the broths and soups will look green and dirty, taste bitter and 
 poisonous, and will be spoiled both for the eye and palate, and 
 your credit will be lost. 
 
 The health, and even life of the family, depends upon this, and 
 the cook may be sure her employers had rather pay the tinman's 
 bill than the doctor's; therefore, attention to this cannot fail to 
 engage the regard of the mistress, between whom and the cook it 
 will be my utmost endeavor to promote perfect harmony. 
 
 If she has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of her 
 pan, which will happen sometimes to the most careful cook, I ad- 
 vise her, by all means, immediately to acquaint her employers, 
 who will thank her for candidly mentioning an accident; and cen- 
 sure her deservedly if she conceal it. 
 
 Take care to be properly provided with sieves and tammy cloths, 
 spoons and ladles. Make it a rule without an exception, never to 
 use them till they are well cleaned and thoroughly dried, nor any 
 stew-pans, &c. without first washing them out with boiling water, 
 and rubbing them well with a dry cloth and a little bran, to clean 
 them from grease, sand, &LC., or any bad smell they may have got 
 since they were last used: never neglect this. 
 
 Though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty slut 
 as to wilfully neglect her broth-pots, &c., yet we may recommend 
 her to wash them immediately, and take care they are thoroughly 
 dried at the fire, before they are put by, and to keep them in a dry 
 place, for damp will rust and destroy them very soon: attend to 
 this the first moment you can spare after the dinner is sent up. 
 
 Never put by any soup, gravy, &c. in metal utensils; in which 
 never keep any thing longer than is absolutely necessary for the 
 purposes of cookery; the acid, vegetables, fat, &c. employed in 
 making soups, &c. are capable of dissolving such utensils: there- 
 fore stone or earthern vessels should be used for this purpose. 
 
 Stew-pans, soup-pots, and preserving pans, with thick and round 
 bottoms (such as saucepans are made with), will wear twice as 
 long, and are cleaned with half the trouble, as those whose sides 
 are soldered to the bottom, for sand and grease get into the 
 joined part, and cookeys say that it is next to an impossibility to 
 dislodge it, even if their nails are as long as Nebuchadnezzar's. 
 
 Take care that the lids fit as close as possible, that the broth,
 
 XXIV BROTHS AND SOUPS. 
 
 soup, and sauces, Stc. may not waste by evaporation. They are 
 good for nothing, unless they fit tight enough to keep the steam in 
 and the smoke out. 
 
 Stew-pans and saucepans should be always bright on the upper 
 rim, where the fire does not burn them; but to scour them all over 
 is not only giving the cook needless trouble, but wearing out the 
 vessels. 
 
 Lean, juicy beef, mutton, or veal, form the basis of broth; pro- 
 cure those pieces which afford the richest succulence, and as fresh 
 killed as possible. 
 
 Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted, and fat meat 
 is wasted. This only applies to those broths which are required 
 to be perfectly clear: fat and clarified drippings may be so com- 
 bined with vegetable mucilage, as to afford, at the small cost of 
 one penny per quart, a nourishing and palatable soup, fully ade- 
 quate to satisfy appetite and support strength: this will open a 
 new source to those benevolent housekeepers, who are disposed 
 to relieve the poor, will show the industrious classes how much 
 they have it in their power to assist themselves, and rescue them 
 from being objects of charity dependent on the precarious bounty 
 of others, by teaching them how they may obtain a cheap, abun- 
 dant, salubrious, and agreeable aliment for themselves and fam- 
 ilies. 
 
 This soup has the advantage of being very easily and very soon 
 made, with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room. Those 
 who have not tasted it, cannot imagine what a salubrious, savory, 
 and satisfying meal is produced by the judicious combination of 
 cheap homely ingredients. 
 
 The general fault of our soups seems to be the employment of 
 an excess of spice, and too small a portion of roots and herbs. . 
 
 There is no French dinner without soup, which is regarded as 
 an indispensable overture; and believe it an excellent plan to begin 
 the banquet with a basin of good soup, which, by moderating the 
 appetite for solid animal food, is certainly a salutiferous custom. 
 
 We again caution the cook to avoid over-seasoning, especially 
 with predominant flavors, which, however agreeable they may be 
 to some, are extremely disagreeable to others. 
 
 Zest, soy, cavice, coratch, anchovy, curry powder, savory ra- 
 gout powder, soup herb powder, browning, ketchups, pickle li- 
 quor, beer, wine, and sweet herbs, and savory spice, are very 
 convenient auxiliaries to finish soups, &.c. 
 
 The proportion of wine should not exceed a large wine-glass- 
 ful to a quart of soup. This is as much as can be admitted, 
 without the vinous flavor becoming remarkably predominant; 
 though not only much larger quantities of wine (of which claret is 
 incomparably the best, because it contains less spirit and more 
 flavor, and English palates are less acquainted with it), but even 
 veritable cau de vie is ordered in many books, and used by many 
 (especially tavern cooks). So much are their soups overloaded
 
 BROTHS AND SOUPS. XXY 
 
 with relish, that if you will eat enough of them they will certainly 
 make you drunk, if they don't make you sick: all this frequently 
 arises from an old cook measuring the excitability of the eaters' 
 palates by his own, which may be so blunted by incessant tasting, 
 that to awaken it, requires win? instead of water, and cayenne 
 and garlic for black pepper and onion. 
 
 The art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the seve- 
 ral ingredients one to another, that no particular taste be strong- 
 er than the rest, but to produce such a fine harmonious relish that 
 the whole is delightful. This requires that judicious combination 
 of the materials which constitutes the "cluf d'ceuvre" of culinary 
 science. 
 
 In the first place, take care that the roots and herbs be per- 
 fectly well cleaned ; proportion the water to the quantity of meat 
 and other ingredients, generally a pound of meat to a quart of 
 water for soups, and double that quantity for gravies. If they 
 stew gently, little more water need be put in at first than is ex- 
 pected at the end; for when the pot is covered quite close, and 
 the fire gentle, very little is wasted. 
 
 Gentle stewing is incomparably the best; the meat is more ten- 
 der, and the soup better flavored. 
 
 It is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle 
 should fit very close, or the broth will evaporate before you are 
 aware of it. 
 
 Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make the 
 witter hot without causing it to boil for at least half an hour; if 
 the water boils immediately, it will not penetrate the meat, and 
 cleanse it from the clotted blood, and other matters which ought to 
 go off' in scum; the meat will be hardened all over by violent heat; 
 will shrink up as if it was scorched, and give hardly any gravy: 
 on the contrary, by keeping the water a certain time heating with- 
 out boiling, the meat swells, becomes tender, its fibres arfe dilated, 
 and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon 
 as it appears. 
 
 It is not till after a good half hour's hot infusion that we may 
 mend the fire, and make the pot boil : still continue to remove the 
 scum; and when no more appears, put in the vegetables, &c. and 
 a little salt. These will cause more scum to rise, which must be 
 taken off immediately; then cover the pot very closely, and place 
 it at a proper distance from the fire, where it will boil very gently, 
 and equally, and by no means fast. 
 
 By quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of tho 
 ingredients are evaporated, and fly off with the steam, and the 
 coarser parts are rendered soluble ; so you lose the good, and get 
 the bad. 
 
 Soups will generally take from three to six hours. 
 
 Prepare your broths and soups the evening before you want 
 them. This will give you more time to attend to the rest of your 
 dinner the next day; and when the soup is cold, the fat may be 
 
 C
 
 XXVI BROTHS AND SOUPS. 
 
 much more easily and completely removed from the surface of it. 
 When you decant it, take care not to disturb the settlings at the 
 bottom of the vessel, which are so tine that they will escape through 
 a sieve, or even through a TAMIS, which is the best strainer, the 
 soups appear smoother and finer, and it is much easier cleaned 
 than any sieve. If you strain it while it is hot, pass it through a 
 clean tamis or napkin, previously soaked in cold water ; the cold- 
 ness of this will coagulate the fat, and only suffer the pure broth 
 to pass through. 
 
 The full flavor of the ingredients can only be extracted by very 
 long and slow simmering ; during which take care to prevent 
 evaporation, by covering the pot as close as possible: the best 
 stew-pot is a digester. 
 
 Clear soups must be perfectly transparent; thickened soups, 
 about the consistence of rich cream; and remember that thickened 
 soups require nearly double the quantity of seasoning. 
 
 To thicken and give body to soups and sauces, the following 
 materials are used: they must be gradually mixed with the soup 
 till thoroughly incorporated with it; and it should have at least 
 half an hour's gentle simmering after: if it is at all lumpy, pass it 
 through a tamis or a fine sieve. Bread raspings, bread, isinglass, 
 potato mucilage, flour, or fat skimmings and flour, or flour and 
 butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed well together. 
 
 To their very rich gravies, &c. the French add the white meat 
 of partridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp, and rubbed 
 through a sieve. A piece of beef, which has been boiled to make 
 broth, pounded in the like manner with a bit of butter and flour, 
 and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will be found 
 a satisfactory substitute for these more expensive articles. 
 
 Meat from which broth has been made and all its juice has been 
 extracted, is then excellently well prepared for POTTING, and is 
 quite as good, or better, than that which has been baked till it is 
 dry; indeed, if it be pounded, and seasoned in the usual manner, 
 it will be an elegant and savory luncheon, or supper, and costs 
 nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which is very little, and a 
 relish is procured for sandwiches, &c. of what heretofore has been 
 by the poorest housekeeper considered the perquisite of the CAT. 
 
 Keep some spare broth lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling, 
 and get too thick, and for gravy for your made dishes, various 
 sauces, &c.; for many of which it is a much better basis than 
 melted butter. 
 
 T.he soup of mock turtle, and the other thickened soups, will 
 supply you with a thick gravy sauce for poultry, fish, ragoutt, &c. ; 
 and by a little management of this sort, you may generally con- 
 trive to have plenty of good gravies and good sauces with very 
 little trouble or expense. 
 
 If soup is (too thin or too weak, take oFthe cover of your soup- 
 pot, and let it boil till some of the watery part of it has evaporated, 
 or else add some of the thickening materials we have before men-
 
 OBSERVATIONS. XXVU 
 
 tioned ; and have at hand some plain browning. This simple pre- 
 paration is much better than any of the compounds bearing that 
 name; as it colors sauce or soup without much interfering with its 
 flavor, and is a much better way of coloring them than burning 
 the surface of the meat. 
 
 When soups and gravies are kept from day to day, in hot weather, 
 they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded 
 tureens or pans, and placed in a cool cellar; in temperate weather 
 every other day may be enough. 
 
 We hope we have now put the common cook into possession of 
 the whole arcana of soup-making, without much trouble to herself, 
 or expense to her employers. It would greatly diminish the ex- 
 pense, and improve soups, if th agents employed to give them a 
 zest were not put in above fifteen minutes before the finish, and 
 half the quantity of spice, &c. would do. A strong heat soon dis- 
 sipates the spirit of the wine, and evaporates the aroma and flavor 
 of the spices and herbs, which are volatile in the heat of boiling 
 water. 
 
 Warm fluids, in the form of soup, unite with our juices much 
 sooner and better than those that are cold and raw : on this ac- 
 count, RESTORATIVE SOUP is the best food for those who are en- 
 feebled by disease or dissipation, and for old people, whose teeth 
 and digestive organs are impaired. 
 
 After catching cold, in nervous headaches, cholics, indigestions, 
 and different kinds of cramp and spasms in the stomach, warm 
 broth is of excellent service. 
 
 After intemperate feasting, to give the stomach a holyday for a 
 day or two by a diet on mutton broth, or vegetable soup, Stc. is the 
 best way to restore its tone. " The stretching any power to its 
 utmost extent weakens it. If the stomach be every day obliged to 
 do as much as it can, it will every day be able to do less. A wise 
 traveller will never force his horse to perform as much as he can 
 in one day upon a long journey." 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON CERTAIN ARTICLES. 
 
 We shall conclude these Introductory Observations, with a few 
 remarks on the qualities of certain Articles in common use. 
 
 Butler. 
 
 Well made pure butter is lenient and nourishing, eaten cold, 
 in moderation, with bread. But upon hot new bread, or hot 
 toast, or used as sauce to animal food, it is not wholesome. In 
 the two first instances it is very apt to turn acid in the stomach; 
 and in the latter, to float uppermost in the stomach, and disturb 
 the digestion. If melted thick and carefully, and eaten with 
 vegetable food and bread only, it is not so liable to this objection. 
 
 Butter is good for dry, constipated habits, but not for such as 
 are bilious, asthmatic, or corpulent.
 
 OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Honey. 
 
 Honey is nourishing and wholesome, particularly for persons 
 with coughs, weak lungs, and short breath. It is balsamic, 
 cleansing, and makes the body soluble. 
 
 Great care should be taken to get it fresh and pure; it is apt 
 to turn sour by long keeping. 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 Sugar used in moderation is nourishing and good, but much 
 of it destroys the appetite, and injures the digestion. Moist 
 sugar is the sweetest, and most opening; refined sugar, of a bind- 
 ing nature. The preparations made of sugar, such as barley- 
 sugar, sugar-candy, &c. are all indigestible and bad, as the good 
 properties of the sugar are destroyed by the process it undergoes 
 in the making them. They are particularly injurious to children, 
 from cloying their delicate stomachs. Young children are in 
 general better without sugar, as it is very apt to turn acid and 
 disagree with weak stomachs; and the kind of food they take 
 has natural sweetness enough in it not at all to require it. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Salt, moderately used, especially with flesh, fish, butter, and 
 cheese, is very beneficial, as it naturally stimulates weak or dis- 
 ordered stomachs, and checks fermentations. But if it be im- 
 moderately used it has a contrary effect. Very little salt should 
 be used with vegetable food of the grain or seed kind; for the 
 less salt that is put to it the milder, cooler, pleasanter, and easier 
 or' digestion it will be. Salt excites the appetite, assists the 
 stomach in digesting crude phlegmatic substances, is cleansing, 
 and prevents putrefaction; but if too much used, it heats and dries 
 the blood and natural moisture. It is best for phlegmatic, cold, 
 and moist stomachs; and most injurious to hot, lean bodies. 
 
 Salt-petre is particularly bad for bilious persons. 
 
 Vinegar. 
 
 Vinegar is cooling, opening, excites the appetite, assists diges- 
 tion, is good for hot stomachs, resists putrefaction, and there- 
 fore very good against pestilential diseases. Too much use of it 
 injures the nerves, emaciates some constitutions, is hurtful to the 
 breast, and makes people look old and withered, with pale lips. 
 
 The best vinegar is that which is made of the best wines. 
 Lemon-juice and verjuice have much the same qualities and ef- 
 fects as vinegar. 
 
 The commonest vinegar is least adulterated. 
 
 Mustard. 
 
 Mustard quickens the appetite, warms the stomach, assists in 
 digesting hard meats, and dries up surperfluous moisture. It sel* 
 dom agrees with weak stomachs..
 
 OBSERVATIONS. XXIX 
 
 Spices. 
 
 Cayenne pepper, black pepper, and ginger, may be esteemed 
 the best of spices. 
 
 Nutmegs, cloves, mace, cinnamon, and allspice, are generally 
 productive of indigestion and headache to weak persons. 
 
 Garlic, (fc. 
 
 Garlic, onions, rocambole, shallots, leeks, and horse-radish, 
 are occasionally good for strong stomachs, but generally disa- 
 gree with weak stomachs. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 The frequent drinking of a quantity of strong tea, as is the 
 general practice, relaxes and weakens the tone of the stomach, 
 whence proceeds nausea and indigestion, with a weakness of the 
 nerves, and flabbiness of the flesh, and very often a pale wan 
 complexion. Milk, when mixed with it in some quantity, lessens 
 its bad qualities, by rendering it softer, and nutritious; and, with 
 a moderate quantity of sugar, it may then be a proper breakfast, 
 as a diluent, to those who are strong, and live freely, in order to 
 cleanse the alimentary passages, and wash off the salts from the 
 kidneys and bladder. But persons of weak nerves ought to ab- 
 stain from it as carefully as from drams and cordial drops; as it 
 causes the same kind of irritation on the tender delicate fibres of 
 the stomach, which ends in low-ness, trembling and vapors. 
 
 It should never be drank hot by any body. Green tea is less 
 wholesome than black or bohea. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Coffee affords very little nourishment, and is apt to occasion 
 heat, dryness, stimulation and tremors of the nerves, and for 
 these reasons is thought to occasion palsies, watchfulness, and 
 leanness. Hence it is very plain that it must be pernicious to hot, 
 dry, and bilious constitutions. If moderately used it may be 
 beneficial to phlegmatic persons, but, if drank very strong, or in 
 grejit quantities, it will prove injurious even to them. 
 
 The following remarks on Coffee, were published in London, 
 by a physician. 1st. The raw coffee should be round and small 
 grained, free from dirt and of a light color. It should have no 
 appearance of mouldiness, and be kept quite free from any strong 
 smell. It should not be long kept in sacks with other provisions, 
 as there is no substance more apt to obtain strong and disagree- 
 able odors from the presence of its neighbors. Rum injures it; 
 and Miller even goes so far as to state that a few bags of pepper 
 on board a ship from India upon one occasion spoiled the whole 
 cargo. 
 
 C2
 
 XXX OBSEHVATIONS. 
 
 2nd. When the grains are large, flat, and of a green color, 
 they should be kept on hand, in a dry situation, a long time before 
 use. Every West India planter knows this fact, although his 
 interest often induces him to send the article to market before it 
 is old and dry enough. 
 
 3d. Roasting coffee is by far the most difficult operation of the 
 housekeeper; when carried far enough, an aromatic oil is formed 
 by the heat and forces itself out upon the surface of the grains, 
 giving them a glossy appearance, and an odor which is consider- 
 ed their perfection; yet too little roasting prevents the aroma 
 from appearing, and too much completely volatilizes it. leaving 
 nothing but a flat bitter taste. The heat should be strong and 
 the operation shortened as much as possible without burning the 
 grains. The roaster should be close or well covered all the time, 
 and in order to improve the looks and flavor, a small piece of 
 butter may be added to the coffee, while parching. 
 
 4th. When thus prepared, coffee may be preserved for use in 
 large quantities, without losing niuch of its freshness, provided 
 the vessels containing it be well covered. 
 
 5th. An infusion of coffee is better than a decoction, simply 
 because the heat, in the last case, b(-ing stronger and more last- 
 ing, drives off more of the aromatic oil. It is better, therefore, 
 to grind the coffee very fine, and then to expose it, by means of 
 a bag or strainer, to the action of boiling water, than to boil it 
 any length of time. Heat, though unavoidable, injures the flavor, 
 and the best coffee I remember to have tasted was made by ex- 
 posing the powder to a pressure of cold water; a^ea-spoonful of 
 this extract, thrown into a cup of hot water, was sufficient. It is 
 not a bad method to allow the ground coffee to lie in cold water 
 between meals, and then prepare it by adding hot water. Just in 
 proportion to the continuance of heat, in this and in the last 
 operation, the fragrance disappears, and is replaced by a strong 
 bitter taste, which, according to the experiments of Chenevix, de- 
 pends upon the presence of tannin (resembling that in tan bark). 
 Roasting, besides forming this bitter substance, deprives the cof- 
 fee of its nutritious qualities. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Is rich, nutritious, and soothing, saponaceous, and cleansing; 
 from which quality it often helps digestion, and excites the appe- 
 tite. It as only proper for some of the leaner and stronger sort of 
 phlegmatic constitutions, and some old people who are healthy, 
 and accustomed to bodily exercise. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 Is of the same nature as chocolate, but not so rich; and there- 
 fore lighter upon the stomach.
 
 OBSERVATIONS. XXXI 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Fruits are of different degrees of digestibility. Those of a hard 
 texture, as some kinds of apples, melons, apricots, several sorts 
 of fleshy plums, and all immature fruits, are difficult of digestion. 
 
 Strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries, 
 green-gages, peaches, nectarines, melting pears, mulberries, figs, 
 grapes, medlars, when all quite ripe, are more easily dissolved in 
 the stomach. 
 
 Fruit, moderately eaten, is wholesome, particularly as correct- 
 ing the grossness of animal food. But an excess of it, and es- 
 pecially of unripe fruit, is productive of many diseases; amongst 
 children in particular, it often occasions such as the nettle rash 
 and St. Anthony's fire. 
 
 Fruit invariably disagrees with bilious persons; but is a sover- 
 eign remedy for the sea scurvy, and for diseases arising from an 
 excess of animal food. 
 
 JVu/s and Mmonda. 
 
 Most kinds of nuts, and almonds, from their milky or oily na- 
 ture, contain a good deal of nourishment; but they require to be 
 well chewed, as they are difficult of digestion. Persons with 
 weak stomachs should not eat them. The worst time at which 
 they can be eaten is after a meal. 
 
 Olives. 
 
 Olives that have been gathered immature or unripe, and put into 
 a pickle to keep them sound, are apt, especially if frequently eaten, 
 to obstruct the stomach and passages. The best way of eating 
 them is with good bread, when the stomach is properly empty. To 
 eat them upon a full stomach is very bad. 
 
 
 
 NOTE. 
 
 Receipts for making all kinds of Bread, Biscuits, Blancmange, 
 Buns, Broth, Cakes, Creams, Custards, Jams, Jellies, Paste, Pies, 
 Puddings, Soups, Sauces, &c., will be found under these general 
 beads ; the method of cooking the several meats are arranged under 
 the name of each meat. Still there are interspersed throughout the 
 book single receipts under the letter of the name, of which many of 
 the above articles are composed. We will instance the following, 
 viz : 
 
 Cakes, Almond, Crumpets, Echaudes, Fanchonettes, Flemish wa- 
 fers, Frangipane, Gateau, Gingerbread, Hedgehog, Jumbles, 
 Kisses, Lemon Bonbons, Macaroons, Madelains, Meat, Muf- 
 fins, Oat, Orange, Perlingo, Sally Lunns. 
 Bread, Almond, Brentford, Filbert, French Rolls, Rusks. 
 Creams, Under various fruits of which they are made. 
 Veal, Friar's chicken, Gratin, and miuiy articles under Calf. 
 Fowls, See also Chickens, Capons. 
 Beef, See also Ox.
 
 XXX11. 
 
 The following Engraving represents the method of dividing an Ox 
 for the table, in England, and in most of the southern cities of the 
 United States. The method in Boston varies considerably, dividing 
 into smaller pieces, and this plan we pursue in the following tables ; 
 but the manner of cooking each is nearly the same. 
 
 1. Sirloin. 
 
 2. Rump. 
 
 3. Edge Bone. 
 
 4. Buttock. 
 
 5. Mouse Buttock. 
 
 6. Veiny Piece. 
 1. Thick Flank. 
 
 8. Thin Flank. 
 
 9. Leg". 
 
 10. Fore rib: Five ribs. 
 
 11. Middle rib: Four ribs. 
 
 12. Ghuck : Three ribs. 
 
 13. Shoulder or leg-of-mutton piece. 
 
 14. Brisket. 
 
 15. Clod. 
 
 16. Neck, or Sticking Piece. 
 
 17. Shin. 
 
 18. Cheek.
 
 MARKETING TABLES. 
 
 Sirloin 
 Rump 
 Edge Bone 
 
 Round 
 
 Veiny Piece 
 Thick Flank 
 Thin Flank 
 Leg Ran 
 Leg 
 
 Price per Ib. 
 10 to 12 
 10 to 12 
 6 to 8 
 
 8 to 10 
 
 6 to 8 
 6 to 8 
 6 
 4 
 2 
 
 cents 
 
 n 
 
 5> 
 
 n 
 
 n 
 n 
 n 
 
 
 
 BEEF. 
 THE HIND QUARTER. 
 
 Method of cooking. 
 Roasted. 
 
 Roasted, or Steak, or Stew. 
 Boiled. 
 
 f Alamode, Boiled, or savory salt- 
 
 \ ed Beef. 
 
 Steaks or Roast ; or baked or salted. 
 Steaks, or corned. 
 
 do. 
 
 Boil ; Soup, or Stew. 
 Soup or Stew. 
 
 THE FORE QUARTER. 
 
 First Cut, 2 Ribs 10 cents 
 
 Second Cut, 2 Ribs 10 
 
 Tliird Cut, 2 Ribs 8 
 
 Fourth Cut, 2 Ribs 6 
 
 Chuck Rib 5 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton Piece 5 
 
 Shoulder Clod 3 
 
 Brisket 6 , 
 
 Rattlcran 
 Sticking Piece 
 Neck 
 
 Shin 
 
 Head (20 cents) 
 
 Tail (2 cents) 
 
 Heels, given with the head 
 
 Roast, 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 Boil or Stew, or for making gravy. 
 Steaks or Bouilli. 
 Boil or Soup, or Beef Sausages. 
 
 ( Boil, or Bouilli ; or stewing, or 
 
 ( Harricot, or Salted. 
 Boil. 
 
 Boil, or Soup. 
 Gravy. 
 
 t Soup ; excellent Scotch barley 
 
 \ Broth, Stewed. 
 Soup, Stewed. 
 Soup, Stewed. 
 Boiled, Jelly, Soup, s 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 Leg 
 Loin 
 
 8 to 10 cents 
 6 to 8 
 
 5 to 6 
 
 K :u- k. neck end 
 
 Rack, best end 
 
 Shoulder 
 
 Breast 
 
 Head 
 
 The Chine or the Saddle, two 
 Loins. The Haunch 
 Leg and part of the Loin 
 
 6 to 8 
 6 
 6 
 4 
 
 two \ 
 
 is a > 
 in, J 
 
 Boil, Roast. 
 
 Chops Roast, Boil, 
 
 I Boil, Roast, Irish Stew, Harricot, 
 
 ( Stewed, Broth. 
 Chops, or Broth. 
 Roast. 
 
 Broth, Grilled. 
 Broth. 
 
 Roasted, Venisonified.
 
 XXXI V MARKETING. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 Loin 8 to 10 cents Roast. 
 
 Leg ,, Cutlets, Roast, Boil. 
 
 ... ( Roasted, Veal Olives, Scotch 
 
 \ Collops. 
 
 Knuckle, or whole Leg 8 Broth, Ragout, Stew, Soup. 
 
 Breast 8 to 10 
 
 Breast and Neck 6 
 
 Rack 6 
 
 Shoulder 6 
 
 Brisket 8 
 
 Cutlets 1 
 
 Roast, 
 
 Roast, Stew, Ragout, Curry. 
 
 Soup Chops to fry. 
 Roast, or Bake. 
 Stewed, Ragout. 
 Fried, Broiled. 
 Head, scalded, (50 to 60 cts. each} Broiled plain, Hash. 
 
 BEEF is plentiest and cheapest from October to January; and best 
 from January to May. 
 
 VEAL is best from Jlpril to July. 
 
 MUTTON is best from October to June. 
 
 GRASS LAMB is best from June to October. 
 
 The Quality of Butcher Meat varies quite as much as the price of it 
 according to its age how it has been fed and especially how it has 
 been treated the week before it has been killed. 
 
 PORK. 
 
 Comes into Market. Plentiest. 
 
 Roasting Pigs May June. 
 
 Quarter Pork July August. 
 
 Spare Ribs and Chine Aug. Nov. & Dec. 
 Middlings salt, all the year. 
 Bacon Hams November, and continue all the year. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 Comes into Market. Plentiest. 
 
 Chickens July Nov. 
 
 Fowls All the year do. 
 
 Ducks July October. 
 
 Geese August Nov. 
 
 Turkeys September Nov. & Dec. 
 
 Wild Ducks do. Oct. & Apr. 
 
 Brants April May. 
 
 Partridges September October. 
 
 Quails do. January. 
 
 Woodcocks July August. 
 
 Obs. POULTRY is in greatest perfection, when in greatest plenty. 
 
 The price of it varies as much as the size and quality of it, and the 
 supply at market, and the demand for it. 
 
 It is generally dearest from March to July, and cheapest about Sep- 
 tember, when the Game season commences, and the weather being colder, 
 allows of its being brought from more distant parts.
 
 MARKETING. XXXV 
 
 The above information will, we trust, lie very acceptable to Economi- 
 cal Families, who, from hearing the very high price Poultry sometimes 
 costs, are deterred from ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons 
 we have noted, it is sometimes as cheap as Butcher-meat. 
 
 Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the dearest, price. In 
 fact, the Best Meat is the cheapest ; and those who treat a tradesman 
 liberally, have a much better chance of being well served, than those who 
 are forever bargaining for the Market Penny. In dividing the Joints, 
 there is always an opportunity of apportioning the Bones, Fat, Flaps, 
 Sfc. so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per pound 
 in most pieces ; and a Butcher will be happy to give the turn of his knife 
 in favor of that Customer icho cheerfully pays the fair price of the arti- 
 cle he purchases ; have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to 
 complain "? Have they not invited such conduct. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CURING AND COOKING PICKLED FISH. 
 
 The use of Pickled Fish, such as Mackerel, Salmon, Shad, &c. 
 is becoming more general than formerly, and would be still more 
 extensive if the proper mode of preparing them for the table was 
 better understood. These fish constitute not only a salutary diet, 
 but in many cases makes a very beneficial change in our food. 
 
 Whoever will give the following directions a fair trial will be- 
 come sensible of their value: 
 
 First. The fish should be kept covered by the pickle by means 
 of a flat stone or slate, laid on them. The oil, or animal fat, 
 which floats on the top of the cask, should not be removed, as it 
 prevents the fish from rusting; but in taking the fish from the 
 barrel or keg, this oil ought to be put aside, care being taken not 
 to let the fish touch it. Secondly The fish should be washed 
 clean, then put to soak in a large quantity of water for eight or 
 ten hours, with the flesh side down. The time of soaking may be 
 varied to suit the palate. It must again be washed clean, put it 
 to soak six or eight hours in milk, (if you have it) then dry it by 
 the fire. Thirdly When dry lay it on the gridiron, with the flesh 
 side downward, over pretty lively coals, for five minutes, or till it 
 is moderately browned, then turn it with a plate, or some flat in- 
 strument that will not break the skin, and let it remain over the 
 coals ten or fifteen minutes, or till it is cocked sufficiently. Slide 
 it off the gridiron into the dish, and strip off the backbone with a 
 broad knife: pat the fish, to cause the thick part of the fish to 
 absorb the fat from the belly part; use no butter then you will 
 enjoy all the flavor and juices of the fish. 
 
 If a Mackerel or Shad so prepared does not relish, it must be 
 more the fault of the palate, than of the food. How many arti- 
 cles, capable of being made into excellent dishes, are lost or 
 spoiled from want of care and skill in dressing them. 
 
 i he whole beauty f pickled Fish dep^mls upon the right method of cooking it, we 
 inert by itself the rereipt nf C:i|it. Henry I'urkitt, .Mn.-^icliusetts Inspector of Fish, whu 
 obligingly handuil it tu the Eilit.ir.
 
 TABLE 
 
 OF 
 
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 By which persons not having scales and weights at hand may 
 readily measure the articles wanted to form any receipt, without 
 the trouble of weighing. Allowance to be made for any ex- 
 traordinary dryness or moisture of the article weighed or meas- 
 ured. 
 
 WEIGHT AND MEASURE. 
 
 Eggs 
 
 Brown sugar 
 
 White sugar, powdered 
 
 Loaf-sugar, broken 
 
 Butter when soft - 
 
 Indian meal 
 
 Wheat flour 
 
 ten eggs are - one pound, 
 
 one pound, two ounces, is one quart, 
 
 one pound, one ounce, is one quart, 
 
 one pound is - - one quart, 
 
 one pound is - one quart, 
 
 one pound, two ounces, is one quart, 
 
 one pound is - one quart. 
 
 LIQUIDS. 
 
 Four large table-spoonfuls are 
 Eight large table-spoonfuls are 
 Sixteen large table-spoonfuls are 
 
 half a gill, 
 one gill, 
 half a pint. 
 
 A common-sized wine-glass 
 A common-sized tumbler holds 
 
 half a gill, 
 half a pint.
 
 THE 
 
 ALM 
 
 ABERDEEN CRULLA. (SeeCakei.) 
 ALAMODE BEEF. (See Beef.) 
 ALAMODE VEAL. (See Veal.) 
 
 ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (1) 
 
 Take half a pound of Jordan almonds, lay 
 them in cold water all night; the next morn- 
 ing blanch them in cold water ; then take them 
 out and dry them in a clean cloth, beat them 
 very line in a little orange flower water; then 
 take MX eggs, leave out four whites, with a 
 little Ix-aten mare; lieat them well in a mar- 
 ble mortar; take ten (unices of fresh Imtter, 
 melt it, add a little grated lemon-jieel, and 
 put them in the mortar with the other ingre- 
 dients; mix all well together and till ynr 
 patty-pans, having lined them with thin puff 
 paste. 
 
 ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (2) 
 
 Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, 
 and a |i-w hitter with a spoonful of water; 
 thru add llnir ou.i.vs of siiLjar [xmnded, a 
 spoonful of cream, and I he whites of two eggs 
 well beaten ; mix all iis (mirk as; |x>ssil>ie; 
 put intip \ery small |xitt\-;>ans, and bake in 
 a prettN warm oxen twenty minutes. 
 
 A I. M ( ) N D CHEESECAKES. (3) 
 
 Blanch six i unices of gweet, and lialf an (iiince 
 of hitter almonds; let them lie half an hour 
 in a drying stoxe, or Ix-fore the fire; pound 
 tlicni very line in a mortar, with two tajble- 
 spoonliils of rose water, to prevent tliem from 
 oiling; set into a stew-pan half a |x>und of 
 fresh butter; set it in a warm place, and 
 cream it very smooth with the hand, and add 
 it to tin- almonds, with six ounces of sifted 
 loaf sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, some 
 P<HM! cream, and four eggs; nib. all well to- 
 gether with the pestle; cover a patty-pan 
 with puff paste; fill in the mixture; orna- 
 ment it with slices of candied lemon-peel and 
 almond- split, and bake it halt' an hour in a 
 brisk ..,,11. 
 
 \|.MI)\|) C< >\SF.UVK, BURNT. 
 Blanch and cut >ix ounces of sweet almonds 
 into -mall stri|is, lay tliem on paper and put 
 them into an oven : when tln-\ are brown, 
 
 ALM 
 
 take them out, and throw them into two 
 pounds of sugar boiled to petit caste, stir 
 the mixture well until it begins to blow, and 
 then pour it into paper cases or moulds. 
 
 ALMONDS, ENGLISH FASHION. 
 Mix almonds and filberts sca'ded in equal 
 quantities ; chop one half very fine, cut the 
 rest each into two or three slices ; put the 
 whole in double their weight of sugar, 
 prepared by boiling it with some lemon- 
 peel rasped; stir the almonds very well 
 in the sugar, taking it off the fire, and 
 add one or two whites of eggs ; pour it in 
 paper large enough to contain the whole, ;uid 
 cut it in slices for use as you think proper, 
 wlieii baked as usual. 
 
 ALMOND FRAZE, Blanch a pound 
 of Jordan almonds, and sleep them in a pint 
 of cream, ten yolks, and four whites of < 
 take out the almonds and pound them fine in 
 a marble mortar; then mix them again in 
 tle cream and eggs, put in sugar and grated 
 bread, and stir them all lordlier; then put 
 some fresh butter into the pan, let it be hot 
 and IMIUI- it in, stirring it in the pan till they 
 are of a sufficient consistence ; and when 
 enough, turn it into a dish, strew sugar over 
 it, and serve it up. 
 
 ALMOND FRITTERS. Blanch three 
 quarters of a pound of sweet almonds, pour 
 over them three table-spoonfuls of rose water, 
 and in a quarter of an hour a pint of cream ; 
 let them stand two or three hours, then pound 
 them in a mortar till they become quite a 
 paste ; add the beaten yolks of six eggs, two 
 or three pounded Naples biscuit; sweeten 
 with pounded loaf sugar, and mix all well 
 together ; melt a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter in a frying-pan, and w hen hot, pour in 
 the mixture, ami stir it constantly till thick, 
 and of a light brown cO(or. Serve it with 
 sifted loaf sugar over the top,. 
 
 ALMOND BROWN GINGER. 
 BREAD. Beat a quarter of a (xxind of 
 
 blanched almonds with thin gum-water, a 
 few drops of lemon-juice, a little powdered 
 cinnamon, et some ginger finely grated and
 
 ALM 
 
 ANC 
 
 icercd to give it a brown color; sweeten 
 and smooth it well, roll it out thin, and cut 
 it into squares; dry it in a stove or before 
 the fire. 
 
 ALMOND ICEING, for BRIDE CAKE. 
 The whites of six eggs, a pound and a half 
 of double-refined sugar, a pound of Jordan 
 almonds blanched and ]>ounded with a little 
 rose water ; mix altogether and whisk it well 
 for an hour or two, lav it over the cake and 
 put it in die oven. 
 
 ALMOND MACAROONS, BITTER. 
 Take a pound of bitter almonds, rub them 
 well in a clean cloth, and beat them to a paste 
 with the whites of three or four eggs ; then 
 put them into an earthen pan with three 
 pounds of powder-sugar, mix them together 
 well, and if the paste should be too dry, 
 moisten it with white of egg. Drop it on 
 sheets of paper in lumps about the size of a 
 walnut, and bake them in a close, gentle oven. 
 
 ALMOND MACAROONS, SWEET, 
 
 Are done in the same way- But two pounds 
 of sugar are sufficient for a pound of almonds. 
 
 ALMOND MILK SOUP. Take half a 
 pound of sweet almonds, put them on tlie fire 
 with some writer r.ntil near boiling, then 
 blanch and throw them into fresh water; 
 drain and pound them. Boil a pint of wa- 
 ter, a little sugar, salt, cinnamon, coriander, 
 and lemon-peel, for a quarter of an hour, and 
 rub the almonds through a sieve to this. Lay 
 some slices of toasted bread in a dish, and 
 pour the milk of almonds on it, as hot as 
 possible without boiling. 
 
 ALMOND PUFFS. Blanch two ounces 
 of sweet almonds, and beat them fine with 
 orange flower water, whisk the whites of 
 three eggs to a high froth, strew in a little 
 sifted sugar, mix the almonds with the sugar 
 and eggs, and add more sugar till as thick 
 as paste. Lay it in cakes, and bake it on 
 paper in a cool oven. 
 
 ALMOND RICE. Blanch sweet al- 
 !;i-> '<ls. and pound them in a marble mortar; 
 mix them in a little boiling water; press 
 them as long as there is milk in the almonds, 
 adding fresh water every time; to every 
 quait of almond-juice, put a quarter of a. 
 pound of rice and two teaspoonsful of orange 
 flower water; mix them all together, and 
 simmer it over a slow charcoal fire ; stir it 
 repeatedly, and when done, sweeten it at 
 pleasure; serve it with beaten cinnamon 
 strewed over. 
 
 ALMOND ROLLS, BITTER. Blanch 
 and pound eight ounces of almonds five of 
 
 sweet and three of bitter) to a very- fine 
 paste; then place ei^lit ounces of tlonr on 
 your slab; make a hole in the middle, and 
 put into it eight ounces of powder-sugar, the 
 yolks of four egg.*, and a grain of salt; mix 
 them all well together into a firm smootn 
 paste; roll it out and cut it into four equal 
 parts; roll each piece to the .same Icii^'h; 
 cut them into pieces about the size of a wal- 
 nut, and form them to the shape of a wild 
 turnip, and as you do them put them on a 
 baking-tin lightly buttered ; dorez them and 
 bake diem of a proper color in a moderate 
 oven. Wlien dies are taken from die oven, 
 let diem stand a little while to dry. 
 
 ALMOND PUDDING. (See Pud- 
 ding.) 
 
 ALMOND TUMBLES. Blanch and 
 pound three ounces of almonds very fine, 
 when almost beaten enough, take die white 
 of an egg beaten to frodi, one pound of dou- 
 ble-refined sugar well beaten, and put it in 
 by degrees, working it into a paste with your 
 hands, roll it out and bake it on buttered 
 plates ui a hot oven. 
 
 AMERICAN BLANCMANGE. (Set 
 Blancmange.) 
 
 AMERICAN GINGERBREAD. Take 
 
 half a pound of fresh butter melted, one pound 
 and a half of dried and sifted flour, the same 
 quantity of brown sugar, a quarter of a pound 
 of pounded ginger, nine eggs, the yolks and 
 whites separately lieaten, one glass of rose 
 water, and one of white wine; mix all these 
 well togedier, and Ijcat it for an hour ; then 
 with a spoon spread it over flat tin pans, 
 about die thickness of a penny-piece; bake 
 it of a light brown, and while warm, cut it 
 into oblong pieces, and place them on end 
 till cool, when diey will be very crisp. 
 
 AMERICAN VINEGAR. (See Vin- 
 egar.) 
 
 AMERICAN SNOW BALLS. Boil 
 
 some rice in milk till it be swelled and soft; 
 pare and carefully scoop out die core of five 
 or six good-sized apples, put into each a lit- 
 tle grated lemon-peel and cinnamon ; place 
 as much of die rice upon a bit of linen aa 
 will entirely cover anapplc.and tie each close- 
 ly. Boil them two hours, and serve them 
 widi melted butter, sweetened widi sugar. 
 
 ANCHOVIES. Wash half a dozen an- 
 ! chovies, and take the meat from die bones ; 
 j cut diem into four fillets, place them on a 
 i dish with some sweet herbs, rut small ; and 
 
 the yolks and whites of liard eggs, also cut 
 
 small.
 
 ANC 
 
 APP 
 
 ANCHOVY BUTTER. Wash your 
 anchovies carefully, take out the lames, and 
 dry them; then pound them in a mortar 
 until they are reduced to a paste; and mix 
 this paste with double the quantity of fresh 
 butter. 
 
 ANCHOVIES, BUTTER OF. Wash 
 
 from the pickle some fine young unchoxies, 
 bone, and take off the heads, then pound tliein 
 in a mortar xvitli fresh butteY till quite smooth, 
 and rub it through a sieve. 
 
 ANCHOVY PASTE. Pound them in a 
 mortar, then rub it through a line sieve; pot 
 it, cover it xvith clarified butter, and keep it 
 in a cool place. If you hax e essence of ancho- 
 vy, you may make anchovy paste extempore, 
 by rubbing the essence xvith as much llour as 
 will make a paste. Mem. This is merely 
 mentioned as the means of making it imme- 
 diately ; it xv ill uot- keep. 
 
 AN CHO VY POWDER. Pound the fish 
 in a mortar, nib them through a sieve, and 
 make them into a paste xvidi (tried tlour, roll 
 it into tliin cakes, and dry lii;'in i:i a Dutch 
 oven lieforc a slow fire; pounded to a tine 
 powder, and put into a well-stopped bottle, it 
 will keep for years; it is a very savoury 
 relish, sprinkled on bread and butter for a 
 sandwich, &c. See Oyster Powder. 
 
 ANCHOVY TOAST. (1) Cut some 
 
 thin slices of bread about the length and 
 breadth of a linger; fry them in oil. Place 
 them on a di-li, and pour on them a sauce 
 made i>f 'il. vinegar, whole pepper, \<,-. 
 s allion, and slrallols, cut up together. Then 
 cut the anehoxies into ihiu slices, and lay 
 them on tin- 
 
 AM'HOVY TOAST. (2) Bone and 
 
 xv.i.-h I he anchovies, pound them' in a mortar 
 xvith a iitile fresh butter; rub them through a 
 sieve and spn ad them on a toast. You may 
 add, while pounding the anchovies, a little 
 iiuide mn.-tard and curry [xnvder, or a few 
 grains of ( 'aycnne, or a little mace or oilier 
 .-pic.-, li ma;. In- made still moi e savoury, by 
 frying the toast in clariiied butter. N.B. 
 Keep your aiichoxies xxell covered; first tie 
 doxvn your jar xvith bladder moistened xvith 
 vinegar, and then xvi|xd dry; tie leather 
 over that: when you ojx-.i a jar, moisten the 
 bladder, and it will come oil easily; as soon 
 as you have taken out the full, replace the 
 coverings; the air soon rusts and spoils 
 anchovies. 
 
 ANCHOVY TOAST. (3) Bone and 
 
 roll up two or diree anchoivies, place them 
 upon pieces of dry toast, and garnish widi 
 curled parsley. 
 
 ANGELICA TO CANDY. Cut die 
 
 stalks when thick and tender, put them on 
 in txiiling water, and when very tender, drain 
 it off, and throw them into cold water; peel 
 otTthe skin, and scald them in a thin sirup, 
 made with the same proportion of sugar that 
 there is of fruit ; heat it twice a day till the 
 sirup is almost dried iu, and then dry them 
 under garden glasses, or in a stove, and turn 
 t lii-in twice a day. 
 
 APPLES. Cooks, in choosing apples for 
 Culinary purpeses, should always be guided 
 by the xxei^ht, tin- i;eax iest being always the 
 best; and ihc.se are particularly to be taken, 
 xvhich, upon being pressed by the thumb, 
 yield with a slight cracking noise. Large 
 apples possessing diese qualities should be 
 'akr i in preference to small ones, as there 
 niste in jieeling and coring. 
 
 APPLE BLACK-CAP. (1) Divide 
 txxeixi in halves, core diem, and 
 
 place them on a thin patty-pan or mazarine, 
 quite C!OM. to , ;l -h other, with tile fiat side 
 downwards ; squee/e a lemon into two 
 spooMlr.:.- of i ::i :.< i: uer water, which pour 
 over them ; shred lino some lemon-peel, throw 
 it over them, and grate fine s-ugar all over. 
 Set them in a quick oven, and bake them 
 half an hour. When served, strew finu su- 
 gar all over the dish. 
 
 APPLE BLACK-CAP. (2) Pare 
 
 the apples, lay them in your pan, strexv a few 
 cloves over tlu-m, a little lemon-perl cut very 
 small, txx-o or three blades of cinnamon, and 
 some ' i he pan xx ith broxvn 
 
 paper, set it in an oven xvith the bread, and 
 let it stand till die oven is cold. 
 
 APPLES, TO BAKE WHOLE. Put 
 some sound and well chosen apples into a 
 pan, widi a small proportion of cloves, a 
 little lemon-peel, some IJIMVU sugar, a 
 or more of red wine, according to the quan- 
 tity of fruit; put them irt a quick oxen, and 
 bake diem at least one hour. Tlie sugar tu 
 be limited according to the quality of the 
 apples. 
 
 APPLES, CHARLOTTE OF. 
 
 Charlotte.) 
 
 (See 
 
 AITLE CHEESECAKES. Pare.core, 
 and boil txvrlxe apples with milhcient water 
 to niiish them; Ix'at them very gmoodi, add 
 six yolks of eggs, die juice of two lemons, 
 and some grated lemon-peel, half a pound of 
 fresh butter liouten to a cream, and sweet- 
 ened with [xnvder sii',n.r, U-al it in widi die 
 apples. Bake in a pull" crust and serve open. 
 
 APPLES CLEAR. Boil half a pound
 
 APP 
 
 APP 
 
 of loaf sugar in a pint of water ; take off the 
 scum, and put in some large apples, pared, 
 cored, and cut into quarters, with the peel 
 and juice of a lemon ; let diem boil till clear, 
 without a cover upon the sauce-pan. 
 
 APPLES COMPOTE. (1) Cut some 
 
 apples in half, core them, prick the skins with 
 a knife and throw them into cold water; 
 then put them into a pan with some clarified 
 sugar, and stew thrm jjcntly till tender ; place 
 the apples in a dish, and pour the simp 
 through a sieve over them. 
 
 APPLES COMPOTE. (2) Pare and 
 cut half a dozen fine apples in half, and put 
 them into a pan with a little water and lemon- 
 juice ; then clarify half a pound of sugar, and 
 when you have skimmed it put in your apples, 
 and the juice of a lemon; turn the apples 
 frequently. As soon as you find the fork will 
 penetrate them, they are sufficiently done, and 
 may be taken out ; strain and reduce the 
 syrup ; strain it again, and then pour it over 
 your apples, which may be served either hot 
 or cold. Garnish with the peel of a very red 
 apple, cut into various devices, and laid on 
 the apples. 
 
 APPLES, WHOLE. The proceeding is 
 the same as the last, except that the apples, 
 when pared, are not divided, and the cores 
 are taken out with a piercer. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS. Pare and 
 
 scoop out the core of six large baking apples, 
 put part of a clove, and a little grated lem- 
 on-peel, inside of each, and enclose them in 
 pieces of puff paste ; boil them in nets for 
 the purpose, or bits of linen, for an hour. 
 Before sen-ing, crt off a small bit from the 
 top of each, and put in a tea-spoonful of su- 
 gar, and a bit of fresh butter ; replace the bit 
 of paste, and strew over them pounded loaf 
 sugar. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED. 
 
 Make them in the same way, but instead of 
 tieing them in cloths lay them in a buttered 
 dish and bake them. 
 
 APPLES, DRIED OR BAKED. Al- 
 ways choose the clearest of baking apples, 
 prick them rather deep with a pointed knife 
 in several places, and put diem in a mode- 
 rate oven upon a baking plate ; when half 
 done squeeze diem pretty flat with the hands, 
 strtw them on bodi sides with powder sugar, 
 and put them again into a soaking oven, 
 with some more sugar over them. Keep 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 APPLES FESTOONED. Peel some 
 golden pippins, core diem whole, and stew 
 
 them to three parts with sugar and a litde 
 water; make die sirup pretty rich to clog 
 to the apples ; wrap them round with a thin 
 paste, cut with a paste-cutter, and make knots 
 tir flowers with the same paste to put on die 
 top of the apples ; rasp some sugar over, and 
 bake a very short time. 
 
 APPLE FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 Bake or scald eight or nine large apples; 
 when cold pare and pulp them through a sieve, 
 beat diis up with fine sugar; put to it the 
 whites of four or five eggs that have been 
 beaten widi a litde rose water ; mix it a lit- 
 tle at a time, and beat it til] it is light; heap 
 it on a rich custard or on jelly. 
 
 APPLE FOOL. Pare, core, and cut 
 into diin bits, some good stewing apples; 
 stew diem till tender, with a little water, 
 two cloves, a bit of cinnamon, and die peel 
 of half a lemon ; pulp ha4f a pound dirough a 
 sieve, and add die same weight of brown sugar, 
 die juice of a lemon, and die whites of two 
 eggs; beat diem all together for an hour. 
 Serve it upon rich cream, or a boiled custard, 
 in a glass dish. It may be made in die same 
 way as die gooseberry fool, as may also stew- 
 ed rhubarb. 
 
 APPLE FRAZE. Cut apples into diick 
 slices, and fry diem of a clear light brown ; 
 take diem from die pan, and lay diem to 
 drain ; thev may be pared or not ; then make 
 a batter. Take five eggs, leaving out two 
 whites, beat diem up with cream or flour, 
 and a little white wine, make it of the con- 
 sistence of pancake batter; pour in a little 
 melted butter, mixed with nutmeg and sugar. 
 Let die batter be hot, and drop in die fritters, 
 laying on every one a slice of apple, and then 
 a spoonful of batter on each. Fry diem of 
 a pale brown, when taken up, strew double- 
 refined sugar all over diem. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. (1) Beat the 
 
 yolks of eight eggs, die whites of four, well 
 togedier, strain diem into a pan ; dien take 
 a quart of cream, make it moderately hot, 
 and add two glasses of sack, three-quarters 
 of a pint of ale, and mix diem well together 
 When it is cool, put to it tin- ruirs, Ix-ating 
 it well together, then add nutmeg and ginger 
 grated, salt and flour at pleasure. The tet- 
 ter should be pretty thick ; then put in sliced 
 apples, or scraped pippins, and fry diem qiiick 
 in butter. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. (2) Pare, 
 
 core, and cut your apples into quarters, soak 
 tlwin tor two or three hours in brandy, su^ar, 
 green lemon-peel, and orange flower water; 
 when they have diorousfhly imbibed die fla- 
 vor of diese ingredients, drain, and put diem
 
 APP 
 
 APP 
 
 into a cloth well sprinkled with floiir, and 
 shake them so that tin: lloiir may adhere all 
 over them; trv them of ;i good color, glaze 
 with sugar ami a hut salamander. 
 
 AI'l'LE FRITTERS. (3) Stew 
 some apples cut small, together with a little 
 water, MI_;:II, lciiion-|X'cl, and cinnamon; 
 when soft, add a little uhite wine, the juice of 
 half a lemon, and a bit of fresh butter; when 
 cold, mix them with a batter, as for Tun- 
 bridge pulls, or enclose them in rounds of puff 
 : iv, and serve them with silted loaf 
 sugar over them. 
 
 APPLE I-'UITTKUS. (4) IWwell- 
 beaten eggs, half a pint of cream, two table 
 spoonfuls of yeast, tliree of white wine, and 
 two of m.-e water ; half a tea sp.xiiiful of uni- 
 ted nutmeg, and of salt ; make it into a thick 
 butter with lloitr, |>cel and core two or three 
 apple-, i-nt them into thin bits, and mix tliem 
 with the ballet-; co\ t -r it over, let it stand, 
 placed near the lire, about an hour; drop it 
 into boiling lard, and serve theai in a napkin 
 with.-ug.ir .-tie wed over them. GoontMMM 
 previously stewed may be done in the same 
 way. 
 
 APPLES, GLAZED. Peel a dozen of 
 apples and leave the tails ; wore at the oppo- 
 site side not quite through, and boil them 
 with half a pint of red wine, some sugar, 
 and a spoonful of brandy, simmer slowly that 
 they may not break ; when nearly done, take 
 th. in mil , i educe the simp to a caramel, and 
 put in the apples, rubbing them all over with 
 it; or yon may wrap tliem in a paste, rasp 
 MI_!.H over, bake a short time, and glaze with 
 a white glaze. 
 
 AI'l'LE MARMALADE. (1) Boil 
 
 some pippins till i hey begin to get tender, then 
 put them into cold water; pare and core 
 them; squeeze the pulp through a sieve and 
 put it over the fire, letting it remain till it lie- 
 comes very thick ; then weigh an equal quan- 
 tity of fine sugar; I K.I I it till the sugar arises in 
 sparkles which clnsiei -togetlu-r ; put the mar- 
 malade to it, and .-lir theai well with a wood- 
 en spoon till tlte apple begins to boil; then 
 take it oil' and when a little eon!, put it into 
 pots, but do not cover them till quite cold. 
 
 \ITI.r. MARMALADE. (2) Par.-, 
 core, and rut your apples into small pieces, 
 put them into water with a little lemon-juice 
 to keep them white. Take them out after a 
 short time and drain them. Weigh, and put 
 them into a. -lew-pan; if for present use, half 
 a |xmm! of Mi^ar will ! sufficient for each 
 pound of apples, but if tor keeping, double 
 that quantity will be necessary . Add to it a 
 tick of cinnamon and the juice of a lemon. 
 1* 
 
 Put the stew-pan over a brisk fire and cover 
 it; when the apples are |Hilped stir the mix- 
 ture till of the proper consistence: then put 
 the marmalade into pots. 
 
 APPLES IN PANCAKES. Cut some 
 apples verv small, stew tliem with a little 
 white wine, grated lemon-peel, pounded cin- 
 namon, and brown sugar; mash them, and 
 spread it over pancakes; roll them up, and 
 serve with sifted loaf sugar over them. 
 
 APPLE POUPETON. Pare some 
 
 good baking apples, take out the cores, and 
 put them into a skillet; to a pound and a 
 luilf of apples, put a quarter of a pound of su- 
 gar, and a wine glass of water. Do them 
 < i :i -i .w lire, add a little cinnamon, and 
 keep them stirring. When of the consist- 
 ence of a marmalade, let it stand till cool; 
 beat up the yolks of four eggs, and stir in four 
 table spoonfuls of giated bread, and a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter ; then form it into 
 shape, bake it in a slow oven, turn it upside 
 doxv n on a pkite, and serve. 
 
 APPLE PRESERVE. (See Pre- 
 erves.) 
 
 APPLES AND RAISINS. Pareand cut 
 twelve apples into quarters, and each quarter 
 into four pieces, put them into a pan with four 
 ounces of good fresh butter, two of sugar, over 
 which the zeste of an orange lias been grated, 
 and a quarter of a pound of currants well 
 washed; toss up these ingredients over a mod- 
 erate fire for a few minutes and then let tliem 
 cool. Make a round undcr-crust seven inch- 
 es in diameter, moisten the edge and put on 
 it a band of pi ill' paste three-quarters of an 
 inch high and half an inch thick ; put your 
 apples, ,vc, in this so as to form a sort of 
 dome, cover tliem with the puff paste, taking 
 care that it dens not extend Ixiyond tlie band, 
 upon which il ni'ist be pressed down ; waah 
 it over with while of egg, and bake it 
 in a gentle oven for about an jour. When 
 a little cooled, take the whites of two eggs, 
 whipped to a strong froth and mixed with 
 two ounces of powder sugar, and mask with 
 it your cake, sprinkling it with sifted su- 
 gar; then, having drained and dried some 
 currants, mix them with sugar, and strew 
 them ever the dome; form a crown of small 
 meringues with the remai'ider of tlie white 
 of egg, and place it on the band ; cover them 
 with silied -uirar, and color the whole of a 
 u in the oven, and then serve im- 
 mediately. 
 
 AITI.ils IN RICE. (1> Scoop om 
 the cores, and pare, very neatly, half a doz- 
 en good-aized apples ; Ix il them in thin, clari- 
 fied sugar ; let them imbibe die sugar, and
 
 APR 
 
 APR 
 
 be careful to preserve their fbnn. Make a 
 marmalade with some other apples, adding 
 to it apricot marmalade, and four ounces of 
 rice previously boiled in milk, with sugar and 
 butter, and the yolks of two or three eggs ; 
 put them into a dish for table, surround it 
 with a border of rice, and place the whole ap- 
 ples in the rice, and marmalade and hake it. 
 When done, put into each of the apples a tea 
 spoonful of any kind of sweetmeat you may 
 think proper. 
 
 APPLES IN RICE. (2) Pare, core, 
 and cut four or five good apples in quarters ; 
 boil some rice in a cloth, and when soft put 
 in the apples, tie it up very loose, and boil 
 gently till sufficiently done. 
 
 APPLE SOUFFLET. Prepare apples 
 as for baking in a pudding, put them into a 
 deep dish, and lay upon tin- top, about an 
 inch and a half thick, rice boiled in new 
 milk with sugar; beat to a stiff froth the 
 , whites of two or three eggs, with a little sift- 
 VL.d loaf sugar, lay it upon the rice, and bake 
 it in an oven a light brown. Serve it instant- 
 ly when done. 
 
 APPLE A LA TURQUE. Neatly pare 
 and pierce out the cores of eight or ten ap- 
 ples, put them on the fire with a thin simp 
 of clarified sugar, cover them close and let 
 them simmer gently; turn them, that both 
 sides may be done. When thoroughly done 
 lay them on a dish, with a wet pa|>er over 
 them. Put a paste round the dish you serve 
 them in, and bake in a gentle oven to harden 
 it, then put in a layer of apple sauce, over 
 which put the apples, and fill the holes where 
 the cores were with dried cherries or ap- 
 ricot jam, then cover it with the apple sauce; 
 beat up the whites of six eggs to a froth, 
 and add powder sugar till they appear quite 
 smooth ; make the apples warm, and lay die 
 white of egg over them, smooth it neatly over, 
 and sift some powder sugar over it ; color it 
 in a gentle oven. 
 
 APPLE WATER. Cut three or four 
 large apples into slices, put them into a jug, 
 and pom' a quart of boiling water over them ; 
 cover the jug. When quite cold, strain and 
 sweeten it, and add a little lemon-juice. 
 
 APRICOTS IN BRANDY. Weigh 
 equal quantities of loaf sugar and of apricots ; 
 scald them, and take off the skins. Clarify 
 and boil the sugar, put the huh into it, arid 
 let it remain for two or three days; put the 
 apricots into glasses. Mix with the sirup 
 the best pale brandy, half and half, and pour 
 it over the apricots and keep them closely 
 covered. Peaches' 'and nectarines may Iv 
 done iu the same wa\ . 
 
 APRICOTS, CHARLOTTE OF. 
 
 Choose twenty-four fine, plump, but not too 
 ripe, apricots, pare and divide them into 
 eight parts, toss them up in a quarter of a 
 pound of fine sugar, and two ounces of warm 
 butter; in the meantime line a mould as di- 
 rected (see Charlotte) ; pour in the apri- 
 cots, and finish as usual. When turned on 
 your dish, cover it lightly with apricot mar- 
 malade, and serve it immediately. 
 
 APRICOTS TO DRY. Pare die apri- 
 cots, and carefully take out the st< >nes ; blanch 
 the kernels, and put them into the apricots; 
 strew over a pound of fruit the same quantity 
 of finely-pounded loaf sugar, and let them 
 stand till the sugar has extracted the juice, 
 then boil all together gently; when the fruit 
 is tender, take it out with care, and boil the 
 sirup till very rich ; pour it over tlie fruit, 
 and in three days put it upon dishes, and dry 
 them in the sun under garden glasses, turning 
 them once or twice a-day, to keep the shape 
 as round as possible. Any inferior apricots 
 may be cut down and boiled in the sirup, for 
 tarts. 
 
 APRICOT MARMALADE. Take 
 some fine apricots, and choose from amongst 
 diem those which are of the deepest yellow 
 and the ripest, (they must not Ix: too ripe.) 
 Peel them, take out the stones, and chop them 
 up; weigh twelve pounds of them and put 
 them into a preserving-pan, with nine pounds 
 of powder sugar ; place your pan over a quick 
 fire, and keep your preparation constantly 
 stirring with a long wooden spoon. To find 
 out when tlie marmalade is sufficiently done, 
 let a few drops fall into a glass of cold water, 
 and if they do not spread in tlie water your 
 marmalade is ready to put into pots. An- 
 other method of ascertaining when your mar- 
 malade is done is by taking some on die end of 
 your finger and thumb, and just rub them to- 
 gether, and if on separating them you find the 
 marmalade forms a thread, it is sufficiently 
 done. 
 
 APRICOTS A LA PORTUGAISE. 
 
 Take a dozen of ripe apricots, cut them in 
 half, and take out tlie stones ; place them on 
 a silver plate, and pour over some, clarified 
 sugar, with a little water; put them on a 
 stove without covering them; when suffi- 
 ciently done, take them from the fire, and 
 strew sus-ar over; then put on the lid of the 
 baking-pan under the (ire, to make them of a 
 good color. 
 
 APRICOTS, WHOLE. Choose tlie fin- 
 est yellow, but not too ripe, apricots; take 
 off the stalks, prick them on each side \vitl> 
 a pin, make an incision with the point of 
 a knife, tlmnigh which extract die stone.
 
 ART 
 
 ASP 
 
 Then put them on tin; fire with as much wa- 
 ter as will cover them, until near boiling, 
 when, if soft, the apricots should 1 thrown 
 into cold water ; take care tliev are all equal- 
 ly tender. Drain them on a hurdle, and in 
 the meantime clarify and boil some sugar 
 to the degree you require; put in a little 
 water, and when it boils remove it from tin; 
 fire, and add to it the fruit, and having given 
 them a few boilings together, let them cool, 
 then drain and place them in your compotiers. 
 
 ARTICHOKES AND ALMONDS. 
 
 Take half a pound of sweet almonds blanch- 
 ed and beat fine, will) two tea spoonfuls 
 of orange-flower or rose water; then take 
 a quart of cream, and boil it with a small 
 quantity of cinnamon and mace; sweeten it 
 with fine sugar, and mix it with the almonds ; 
 stir them together, and strain it through a 
 sieve. Let the cream cool, and thicken il 
 with the yolks of six eggs; then !^iniish a 
 deep dish, and lay paste at die bottom ; then 
 put in shred artichoke bottoms, IM-IIII; tilst 
 boiled ; uini ii|x>n these a little melted butter. 
 shred citron, and candied orange; repeating 
 the same until the dish is nearly full, then 
 pour in the cream, and bake it without a lid. 
 When it is baked, grate sugar over it, and 
 serve it hot. Half an hour will serve to 
 bake it. 
 
 ARTICHOKES BOILED. Soak them 
 in cold water, wash them well, then put them 
 into plenty of boiling water, with a handful 
 of salt, and let them Ixiil gently till they are 
 tender, which will take an hour and a half, 
 or two hours: the surest way to know when 
 they are done enough, is to draw out a leaf; 
 trim them and drain them on a sieve; and 
 send up melted butter with them, which some 
 put into small cups, so that each guest may 
 have one. 
 
 ARTICHOKES TO BOIL. Cut off the 
 
 euilks cI'Mse to the bottom, wash them well, 
 and let tliem lie for some hours in cold wa- 
 ter; put them on in liling water with a 
 little salt in it, cover the pan closely, and 
 boil them an hour and a half. If they are 
 old, and have not been fresh gathered, they 
 will take a longer time to boil. Melted but- 
 ed with them in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, TO DRY 
 
 AND I'ICKI.K. Half boil the artichokes, 
 strip off the leaves, and pull out the i-lmke; 
 put the bottoms into small jars, and cover 
 them with a cold boiled brine of salt and 
 water ; put melted mutton suet on the top to 
 exclude the air, and tie bladder over them. 
 To dry tliem, they are U.iled as for eating, 
 the leaves and choke pulled out , and the bot- 
 toms dried upon dishes in an oven, and then 
 
 kept in paper bags. When to be dressed, 
 tliey must be laid into warm water, and soak- 
 ed for two or three hours ; they may then be 
 plain boiled, and eaten with melted butter, 
 or stewed in gravy with a little mushroom 
 catsup, pepper, and salt, and thickened with 
 a bit of butter rolled in flour. They are a 
 great improvement to all made dishes and 
 meat pies. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PICKLED. 
 
 Boil the artichokes till the leaves can be pull- 
 ed off without breaking the bottoms; leave 
 on the part called the choke, set them aside 
 till cold, then put tliem into wide-mouthed 
 bottles. Boil, in vinegar, some salt, pepper, 
 mace, and sliced nutmeg, and, when cold, 
 pour it over the artichokes ; tie bladder over 
 the bottles. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM. (1) 
 
 Are boiled and dressed in the various ways di- 
 rected for potatoes. N. B They should be 
 covered with thick melted butter, or nice 
 white or brown sauce. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM. (2) 
 They must be neatly peeled, and boiled very 
 gently by the side of the stove, with a little 
 salt in the water ; when done (but not too 
 much, or they will not look well) place them 
 on the dish, and serve with plain butter, or 
 any other sauce you please. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, TO 
 FRICASSEE. Wash and scrape or pare 
 them ; boil tliem in milk and water till they 
 are soft, which will be from a quarter to half 
 an hour. Take them out and stew them a 
 f(*w minutes in the following sauce: Roll a 
 bit of butter, the size of a walnut, in flour, 
 mix it with half a pint of cream or milk ; 
 season it with pepper, salt, and grated nut- 
 meg. They may be served plain boiled, 
 with a little melted Initter poured over 
 them. Scorzonera is fricasseed in the same 
 manner. 
 
 ARROW -ROOT. Mix with two or 
 three tablc-epoonfuls of arrow-root half a 
 pint of cold water ; let it stand for nearly a 
 quarter of an hour, pour off" the water, and 
 stir in some pounded sugar; boil a pint of 
 milk, and pour it gradually upon the arrow- 
 root, stirring it one way all the time. Or 
 it may be made with water in which lemon- 
 peel has been boiled, and then a glass of Port 
 or white wine and a little nutmeg stirred 
 into it. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. Set a stew-pan with 
 plenty of water in it on the fire; sprinkle a 
 handful of salt in it ; let it boil, and skim it; 
 then put in your asparagus, prepared thus:
 
 ASP 
 
 8 
 
 BAC 
 
 'scrape all the stalks till they are perfectly 
 clean ; throw tlicm into a pan of cold water as 
 you scrape them; when they are all done, tie 
 them up in little bundles, of about a quarter 
 of a hundred each, with bass, if you can get 
 it, or tape (string cuts them to pieces ; ) cut 
 off the stalks at the bottom that they may be 
 all of a length, leaving only just enough to 
 serve as a handle fur the green part ; when 
 they are tender at the stalk, which will be 
 in from twenty to thirty minutes, they are 
 done enough. Great care must be taken to 
 watch the exact time, of their becoming ten- 
 der ; take them up just, at that instant, and 
 they will have their live flavor and color: 
 a minute or two mure boiling destroys both. 
 While the asparagus is boiling, toast a round 
 of a quartern loaf, about half an inch thick; 
 brown it delicately on both sides; dip it 
 lightly in the liquor the asparagus was boiled 
 in, and lay it in the middle of a dish: melt 
 some butter, then lay in the asparagus upon 
 the toast, which must project beyond the as- 
 pari^'V. that the company may see there is 
 a teas*. 
 
 ASPARAGUS, BOILED. Scrape and 
 lie them in small bundles; cut them even, 
 boil them quick in salt and water; lay ti:em 
 on a toast dipped in the water the asparagus 
 was boiled in ; pour over them melted butter. 
 
 ASPARAGUS AND EGGS. Toast a 
 slice of bread, butter it, and lay it on a dish; 
 butter some eggs thus : take four eggs, beat 
 them well, put them into a sauce pan with 
 two ounces of butter, and a little salt, until 
 of a sufficient consistence, and lay them on 
 the toast; meanwhile boil some asparagus 
 tender, cut the ends small, and lay them on 
 the eggs. 
 
 ASPARAGUS, FRENCH. Boil it, and 
 chop small the heads and tender part of the 
 stalks, together with a boiled onion; add a 
 little salt and pepper, and the beaten yolk of 
 an egg ; beat it up. Serve it on sippets of 
 toasted bread, and pour over it a little melt- 
 ed butter. 
 
 ASPARAGUS SOUP. (See Soupt.) 
 
 ASPICK. Take a knuckle of veal, a 
 knuckle of ham, a thick slice of beef, and if 
 they will not make your jelly stilf enough, 
 add two calf's feet, or some swards of bacon 
 rasped ; put them into a sauce-pan with a pint 
 of rich stock, and sweat it over a stove till 
 reduced to a glaze, then moisten it with stock, 
 boil and skim it well. Put to it two onions, 
 two carrots, salt, parsley , seal! inns, tour cloves, 
 two bay leaves, and a clove of garlick ; let 
 the whole stew fur seven hours, then strain off 
 the liquor or consomme. Bre;dt (bur eggs 
 
 into a stewpan, and put to them llie consomme 
 when cold, the juiee of two lemons, and two 
 spoonfuls of tarragon, and beat it with a 
 whisk over the lire till near boiling, and when 
 it does so, remove \rnir stew-pan to a smaller 
 fire, and place fire on the lid fur half an hour; 
 then pass it through a wet napkin doubled. 
 If the jelly is not sufficiently clear, clarify it 
 a second tiiiip. 1'uta layer of this jelly, about 
 half an inch thick, at the bottom of an aspick 
 mould, garnish it with truffles, whites of eggs, 
 sprigs of parsley, &c. according to your taste, 
 |K)ur in another half inch of the jelly, while 
 liquid, with great care, so as not to discom- 
 pose jour garnish, then put either calf's 
 brains, breasts of fowl, veal sweetbreads, 
 cocks' coiulis. kidneys, fat livers, or game. 
 Be sure to lay \\hale\er \ou may use, as equal 
 and smooth as possible, then fill up your mould 
 with jelly, and let it stand till t-et. When 
 wanted, dip the mould in hot water an in- 
 stant, place your dish on the top and turn it 
 over. 
 
 ATTELETS, OYSTER. (See Oyt- 
 
 ATTELETS are silver skewens. 
 
 AUNT MARY'S PUDDING. (Se 
 
 Puddings.) 
 
 B. 
 
 BACCHIC CREAM. (See Cream.) 
 BACCHIC SAUCE. (See Sauce.) 
 
 BACON . Cover a pound of nice streaked 
 bacon or salt pork witli cold water, let it boil 
 gently for three-quarters of an hour ; take it 
 up, scrape the under side \\cll, and cut off 
 the rind: grate a crust (if bread not only on 
 the top, but all over it, and put it before the 
 fire for a few minutes: it must not be there 
 too long, or it will dry it and spoil it. Two 
 pounds will require about an hour and a half, 
 according to its thickness; the heck or gam- 
 mon being very thick, will take more. The 
 boiling of bacon is a very simple subject to 
 comment u|x>n; but our main object is to 
 teach common cooks the art of dressing com- 
 mon food in the best manner. Bacon is 
 sometimes as salt as salt can make it, there- 
 fore Wore it is boiled it must be soaked in 
 warm water for an hour or two, changing 
 the water mice; then pare oil' the rusty and 
 smoked part, trim it nicely on the under side, 
 and scr:i|x! the rind as clean as possible. 
 Mem. Bacon is an extravagant article in 
 housekeeping; there is often twice as much 
 dressed as need be: when it is sent to ta- 
 ble as an accompaniment to boiled poultry
 
 B AC 
 
 BAR 
 
 or veal, a pound and a half is plenfy for a doz- 
 en people. A good (iernian sausatre is a 
 
 very economical BubotiM* far bacmi; or fried 
 pork sa'-- 
 
 Note. Bacon in England arid salt 
 pork in America are the same thing. 
 What we name bacon, the English call ! 
 ham. 
 
 HA< < )\ TO BROIL. Make up a sheet 
 of pa|>cr into the form of a dripping-pan ; cut 
 vour bacon into thin slic<s, cut oil' the rind, 
 lay the IKICOII on the paper, put it upon the 
 gridiron, set over a slow fire, and it will 
 Broil cleanly. 
 
 BACON AM) KCfiS. Tut a quarter of 
 
 a pound of streaked bacon into thin slices, 
 
 and put tin-in i ; ito ;i stew |in oxer a -low lire, 
 
 Cakin,' can- to turn them frequently; when 
 
 snfhVicntly d.ine, pour the melted III! of the 
 
 to a dub, (breakover it Kven or eight 
 
 ln!< of gravy, a little 
 
 [x-p|KT, and stew the whole oxer a 
 
 slow tire: J;:L-S a salamander over it, and 
 
 serve. 
 
 BACON. <J AM MON.TO BAKE. Lay 
 it to steep all night in water, scrape it clean, 
 and stuff it with all manner of sweet herbe, 
 as thyme, sa<je, sax op, , .-wi-et marjoram, pen- 
 ny-royal, strawlx-rry leaves, violet leaves, and 
 fennel ; chop these small, and mix them with 
 the yolks of hard i-'^'^f, pepper and nutmeg 
 beaten, and boil it until tender. When it is 
 cold pare off thv under side, pull ofi the .-kin, 
 with pepper and nutmeg, and pt.l it 
 in a pie or pasty, with whole cloves and slices 
 of raw Uiciiu laid o\er it, and butter; close it, 
 and liaKe it. 
 
 HA CON OK lt\M SLICES. Ham, or 
 
 brv-on. may Ix- fried, or broiled on a gridiron 
 
 - ir lire, or toa-ted u itli a fork: take 
 
 lire it of the same thickness in every 
 
 part. If xoii wish it curled, cut it in slices 
 
 about two incho long (if longer, the. ontside 
 
 will l- done r.Mi much lx-|ore the inside is 
 
 :>i) ; roll it up, and put a little 
 
 ike wer through it: put it maehene- 
 
 l>nt"h oxen. foreign or ten ininufes, 
 
 turning r -p. I'his iscon-idered 
 
 i\iiy of dressi'ii,' liacon; but 
 
 we like it lx---t uncurled, because it isrri-]>er. 
 
 and more equally done. Slices of ham or 
 
 kiro;i should not I*' HKire th.m half a quarter 
 
 of an inch thick, and will eat much more 
 
 mellow if snaked in hot \\ater for a cpiartcr 
 
 of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before 
 
 they arc broiled, &c. 
 
 _ BACON KKI.ISHINC KASHKKS. 
 If you have any cold bacon, you may make 
 
 a very nice dish of it by cutting it into slices 
 alxuit a quarter of an inch thick ; grate some 
 crust of bread, as directed for ham and pow- 
 der tliem well with it on Ixith sides; lay the- 
 ra.-hers in a cheese-toaster, they will be 
 browned on one side in alxuit three, minutes, 
 turn them and do the other. These are a 
 delicious accompaniment to poached or fried 
 the liacon having Ijcen boiled first, is 
 tender and mellow. They are an excellent 
 garnish round veal cutlets, or sweetbreads, 
 or calf's head hash, or green peas or beans, 
 &c. 
 
 BAIN MARIE. A flat vessel, contain- 
 ing Ixiiling water, meant to hold other sauce- 
 pans, either lor purposes of cookery or to keep 
 dishes hot. The advantages of preserving 
 the heat of dishes by the bain marie is this, 
 that no change is effected in the flavor of 
 the ingredients. 
 
 BALM BEER. (See Beer.) 
 BANBURY CAKES. (See Cakes.) 
 BARLEY CREAM. (See Cream.) 
 
 BARLEY WATER. Take a couple of 
 ounces of pearl barley, wash it clean with 
 cold water, put it into half a pint of boiling 
 water, and Jet it boil for five minutes; pour 
 off this water, and add to it two quarts of 
 boiling water: boil it to two pints, and strain 
 it. The almve is simple barley water. To 
 a quart of this is frequently added two ounces 
 .sliced; the same of raisins, stoned ; 
 half an ounce of liquorice, sliced and bruised; 
 and a pint of water. Boil it till it is re- 
 duced to a quart, and strain. Obs. These 
 drinks are intended to assuage thirst in ardent 
 I- \er.-and inllamiiiatorx disorders, for which 
 plenty of mild diluting liquor is one of the 
 principal remedies: and if not suggested by 
 the medical attendant, is frequently demanded 
 by honest instinct, in terms too plain to be 
 misunderstood : the stomach sym|>athizes with 
 libre of the human frame, and no part of 
 it can be distressed without in some degree 
 offending tlie stomach: therefore it is of the 
 utmost ini|xirtaiicc to sooth this ijrand organ, 
 by rendering everything we offer to it as 
 eii L'ant and a^rei able as tin, nature of the 
 case will admit of: I!K- bai ley drink prepared 
 according to the second receipt, will \>e re- 
 ceived with pleasure by the most delicate 
 
 BARLEY BROTH. (See Broth.) 
 
 r.AKI.KV CRUEL. Take three ounces 
 of pearl barley, of which make a quart of 
 barley water; if it U- not white, shift it once 
 or tu ii ; put in two ounces of currants clean
 
 BEA 
 
 10 
 
 BEE 
 
 picked and washed, and wlien they are plump- 
 ed, pour out the gruel and let it cool a little ; 
 then put iu the yolks of three eggs well beat- 
 en, half a pint of white wine, and of new 
 thick cream half a pint, ami l:mon-|>eel; 
 then sweeten with fine sugar to your taste ; 
 stir it gently over the fire, until it is thick as 
 cream. 
 
 BARLEY PUDDING. (See Pud- 
 ding.) 
 
 BARBERRY JELLY. (See Jelly.) 
 
 BARBERRY CONSERVE. Put a pound 
 of ripe burberries and half an ounce of pow- 
 dered fennel seed into a silver vessel, with a 
 glass < if water ; boil them three or four times-, 
 and ptvss the juice through a sieve. Replace 
 tli<' M'.-s-vl on the (ire with the juice, and add 
 to it a pound and a half of sugar, boiled au 
 casse. Boil together a few times, and then 
 pour the conserve into cases. 
 X 
 
 BARBERRY SIRUP. (See Sirup.) 
 
 BARBERRIES TO PICKLE. Boil the 
 bruised berries of a few bunches in salt- 
 and-water; strain, and put a gill of the 
 liquor to a quart of vinegar, with an ounce 
 of salt, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, 
 a quarter of an ounce of pounded ginger, and 
 a little sliced horse-radish; boil and strain 
 it, then pour it hot over the barberries, die 
 fiue.-t b'.mches having been previously select- 
 ed and placed in jars ; when cold, cover them 
 closely with bladder. They may also be 
 kept in a jar, with a strong brine of salt-and- 
 water poured over them. When any s"iim 
 is observed upon the surface, the brine must 
 be pon.ed off, and some fresh added. They 
 are kept closely covered. 
 
 BARBERRY SIRUP. (See Sirup.) 
 BASIL VINEGAR. (See Vinegar.) 
 BATH BUNS. (See Buns.) 
 
 BATTER FOR FISH, MEAT, FRIT- 
 TERS, &c. Prepare it with tine flour, salt, 
 a little oil, beer, vinegar, or white wine and 
 the whites of eggs teat up; wlien of a proper 
 thickness it will drop out of the spoon about 
 the size of a nutmeg at once. Fry in oil or 
 hog's lard. 
 
 BATTER PUDDING'. (See Pud- 
 ding.) 
 
 BEANS. Cut, wash, and boil tin- beans, 
 and then throw them into a cullender. Put a 
 piece of butter into'your table-dish, lay the 
 beans on it, and garnish them with chopped 
 
 parsley laid round like a cord ; heat the dish 
 and serve. 
 
 BECHAMELLE. Reduce some sauce 
 tournee over a good fire, moisten with chick- 
 en broth or consomme, constantly stirring to 
 prevent its catching ; when of the proper con- 
 sistence, add two glasses of boiling cream, 
 continue stirring ; pass it through a hair sieve 
 and serve. 
 
 BECHAMEL, OR WHITE SAUCE. 
 Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two 
 |X)inids of lean veal, half a pound of lean ham ; 
 melt in a steupan two ounces of butter; 
 when melted, let the wht le simmer unlil it 
 is ready to catch at the bottom (it requires 
 great attention, as, if it happen to catch at 
 tlie bottom of the stewpan, it will s|xjil the 
 look of your sauce) ; then add to it three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour; when well mixed, 
 add to it tliree pints of broth or water (pour 
 a little at a time, that the thickening be 
 smooth) ; stir it until it boil ; put the stew- 
 pan on the corner of the stove to boil gently 
 for two hours ; season it with four cloves, 
 one onion, twelve pepper-corns-, a blade of 
 mace, a few mushrooms and a fagot made 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf. 
 Let the sauce reduce to a quart", skim the fat 
 olF, and strain it through a tamis cloth. To 
 make a bechamel sauce, add to a quart of 
 tlc above a pint of good cream ; stir it until 
 it is reduced to a good thickness; a few 
 mushrooms give a good flavor to tliat sauce; 
 strain it through a tamis cloth. 
 
 BEEF. The names of the various pieces, 
 according to the method of dividing the car- 
 cass, are as follows: The hind quarter con- 
 tains the Sirloin ; Rump; Edge-lxine; But- 
 tock, or Round; Mouse Buttock ; Veiny 
 Piece; Thick Flank; Thin Flank; Leg 
 Ran; Legs; Fore Rib; Fixe [libs. The 
 fore quarter contains the Middle Rib of four 
 ribs; Chuck of three ribs; Shoulder, or Leg- 
 of-Mutton Piece, containing a part of the 
 Blade-bone'; Brisket; Clod; Neck End, or 
 Sticking Piece; Shin; Check. Besides 
 these are thy Tongue and Pa!a:e. 'i he En- 
 trails consist of die Heart; Sweetbreads; 
 Kidneys; Skirts; and three kinds of Tripe, 
 the Double, the Roll, and the Red Tripe. 
 
 Ox beef is considered the bust. The flesh 
 should feel tender, be fine in the grain, and 
 of a bright red color, nicely marbled or mix- 
 ed with fat. The fat should be white, rather 
 than of a yellow color. 
 
 Heifer beef is excellent when finely fed, 
 and is most suitable for small families. The 
 bone should be taken out of a round of beef 
 Ijeforc it is salted, and it must be washed, 
 skewered, ;uid bound round firmly before be- 
 ing l>oiled. Salt beef should !>e put on with
 
 BEE 
 
 11 
 
 BEE 
 
 plenty of cold water, and when it boils the 
 cum removed. It is then kept simmering 
 for (tome hours. A piece weighing fifteen 
 pounds will require three hours and a half to 
 boil. Carrots and turnips for garnishing 
 should be put on to boil with the beef. If 
 in the least tainted, a piece of charcoal may 
 be boiled with it. 
 
 Wlien beef is to be kept any length of time, 
 it should be carefully wi|)ed every day. In 
 warm weather, wood vinegar is an excellent 
 pivsei \ative: it is put all over the meat with 
 a liriu-li. To protect tile meat from flies, it 
 max ! .-prinkle/l oxer with pepper. Tainted 
 meat may IK- re>t<>rcd by washing in cold 
 water, afterwards in strong chamomile tea, 
 after which it may IK- sprinkled with salt and 
 used thr t'llluu iui: day, first washing it 
 in cold water. Roughfy pounded charcoal 
 rubbed all over the meat also restores it when 
 tainted. In Scotland meat is frequently kept 
 a. fortnight smothered in oatmeal, and care- 
 fully wi|M>d every day; and if it should be a 
 little tainted, it is soaked some hours before 
 it is used, in <>;itm-.il and water. 
 
 These directions equally apply to all sorts 
 of meat. The sirloin is the prime joint tor 
 Whrii to be used, it should be 
 washed, then dried with a clean cloth, and 
 the fat covered over with a piece of white (Mi- 
 ner tied on with thread. Tile spit should be 
 kept at all times exceedingly clean: it must 
 lie wiped dry immediately after it is drawn 
 from tin- meat, and uaslied and scoured every 
 time it is used. Care should be taken to bal- 
 ance the roast properly upon the spit, l>ut, if 
 \ li.'lil. il is better to make it equal 
 by fastening on a leaden-headed skew r linn 
 it again. Tlie fire slioulil be pre- 
 pired by putting on plenty of coals at the 
 back. When put down, it should be about 
 ten inches from tli- lire, and gradually drawn 
 nearer. It is first basted witli a little butter 
 or fresh dripping, and then well basted will) 
 iis nun fat all the time it is roasting. Ten 
 minute- I let' ne >.-i -\ iii_'. it .-houlil lie sprinkled 
 with a little salt, then dredged with flour, and 
 basted till it is frothed. When it is drawn 
 from the spit some jji-avy will run out, to 
 which in;". IK- added a little boiling salt-and- 
 watcr poured al .>ng (In- hone: the beef is tlien 
 ganiished with plenty of finely scraped horse- 
 radish. A sirloin, x\i ijiin.; aliout tiltei-n 
 pounds, should lie roasted for three hours and 
 a half. A thinner piece of the same weight 
 requires only three hours. In cold weather 
 meat requires longer roast in;: than in warm, 
 and if newly killed tlum if it lias been kept. 
 
 HI. 1.1 \ I. A MODE. (1) Take about 
 
 eleven pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod 
 oflxiT, or a l>lade-bonc, or tlu- stirkiic-pifce, 
 or the like xxeisjht of the breast of veal; cut 
 it into pieces of three or four ounces each ; put 
 
 three or four ounces of beef drippings, and 
 mince a couple of large onion?, and put them 
 into a large deep stewpan ; as soon as it is 
 quite hot. Hour die meat, put it into the stew- 
 pan, keep stirring it with a wooden spoon; 
 when it h:is been on about ten minutes, dredge 
 it with flour, and keep doing so till you have 
 stirred in as much as you think will thicken 
 it; then cover it with boiling water (it will 
 take about a gallon), adding it by degrees, 
 and stirring it together ; skim it when it boils, 
 and then put in one drachm of ground black 
 pepper, two of allspice, and two bay leaves; 
 set the pan by the side of the fire, or at a dis- 
 tance over it and let it stew very slowly for 
 about three hours; when you find the meat 
 sufficiently tender, put it into a tureen, and 
 it is ready for table. 
 
 BEEF ALAMODE. (2) Take the 
 bone out of a small round of fine ox beef, cut 
 some fat bacon in long strips, dip them into 
 common and shallot vinegar mixed, and roll 
 them in the following seasoning: Grated nut- 
 meg, black and Jamaica pepper, one or two 
 cloves, and some salt, parsley, chives, lemon- 
 lliyme, notted marjoram, and savoury, shred 
 quite small. Lard the beef very thickly, bind 
 it firmly w ilh ta]>e, and rub die outside with 
 the seasoning. Put it into a saucepan, with 
 iln- rind of a lemon, four large onions, die nil 
 part of three or f iir carrots, and two turnips 
 cut into dice; add a tea-cupful of strong ale 
 and one of vinegar; let it stew -f;r six < r eight 
 li.uirs, turning it two or three times. Half 
 .in hour U'fore serving, takeout die beef and 
 ililes, skim oil' the fat, strain the sauce, 
 and thicken it with a little flonr-aud-water 
 mixed smooth, add a tea-cupful of 1'ort v. irto, 
 return it all into tile pot, and let it boil. 
 
 BEEF ALAMODE. (3) Take a rump 
 or piece of beef, bone it, beat it well and lard 
 it with tat Ixicon, then \M it into a stewpan 
 with some rind of baron, a calf's foot, an 
 onion, carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bay 
 leaf, thyme, a clove of garlic, some cloves, 
 salt, and pepper, pour over tile whole a glass 
 of water, let it stew oxer a slow fire for six 
 hours at least. A clean cloth should be 
 placed over the stew pan before the lid is 
 pit on, which must !* carefully closed. 
 When it is done, strain the gravy through a 
 sieve, clear off the fat, and serve. 
 
 BEEF ALADAUBE. Take a round, 
 a lump, or a veiny piece of beef, lard it with 
 bacon, half roast it, or fry it brown; put it 
 into a .-tr\x|<an or a pot that will just hold 
 it ; add some gravy, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, half a pint nf white wine, a gill of 
 vinegar, a bunch of swoet herbs, pepper, 
 cloves, mace, ami salt ; cover it down very 
 close, let it hut just simmer till it is tender ;
 
 BEE 
 
 12 
 
 BEE 
 
 lake two ox palates, two sweetbreads, truf- 
 fles, morels, artichoke bottoms, stew them all 
 together in some gravy, atid pour over the 
 beef; have ready some forced meat balls fried, 
 make some long, others round, dip some sip- 
 .pets into baiter, fry and cut them three cor- 
 ner ways, and stick them into the meat ; lay 
 the balls round the dish. 
 
 BEEF ALABRAISE. (1) Bone a 
 rump of beef; lard it very thickly with salt 
 pork seasoned with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, 
 and allspice, and season the beef with pepper 
 and salt ; put some slices of bacon into the 
 bottom of the pan, with some whole black pep- 
 per, a little allspice, one or two bay leaves, two 
 onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of 
 sweet herbs. Put in the beef, and lay over it 
 some slices of bacon, two quarts of weak 
 stock, and half a pint of white wine. Cover 
 it closely, and let it stew between six and 
 seven hours. Sauce for the beef is made of 
 part of the liquor it has been stewed in, 
 strained, and thickened with a little flour and 
 butter, adding some green onions cut small, 
 and pickled mushrooms. It is poured hot 
 over the beef. 
 
 BEEF ALABRAISE. (2) After a 
 rump of beef has hung for five or six days, 
 bone, and lard it thickly, but so as not to ap- 
 pear upon the surface, with bits of salt pork 
 or ham cut about half an inch square, and 
 rolled in the following seasoning well mixed: 
 Finely minced onion, parsley, thyme, a lit- 
 tle garlic, pepper, and salt. What is left over 
 of the seasoning add to a pint of vinegar, one 
 of Port wine, and a tea-cupful of salad oil ; 
 steep the beef in this for one night ; the fol- 
 lowing day paper it, and roast it in a cradle 
 spit. Baste it well, and serve it with a thick 
 brown gravy. A little lemon-juice and sliced 
 pickled cucumbers may be added. Garnish 
 with slices of boiled carrot and scraped horse- 
 radish. 
 
 BEEF ALANGLAISE. Take a rump 
 of beef, or any piece you like better of the 
 same size ; tie it up neatly with packthread, 
 and put it into a stewpan with two or three 
 carrots, a parsnip, three or four onions, a 
 bunch of parsley and green onions, a clove of 
 garlic, a bay leaf, thyme, and basil ; moisten 
 with some stock or water, season, and let 
 the beef stew gently till half done, then put in 
 a few small cabbages, prepared in the follow- 
 ing manner; boil a large cabbage, and hav- 
 ing squeezed it perfectly dry, take off the 
 leaves one by one, and put within each leaf 
 a little veal or other forcemeat, suirounding 
 it with three or four more of tlie leaves, in 
 such a manner as to form little cabbages, 
 something larger than an egg ; tie these with 
 packthread, and let them be stewed with the 
 
 beef. When die whole is done, clean away 
 the outside loose fat, and put your beef in a 
 dish, cut the little cabbages in half, and place 
 them round tile dish, with the cut side out- 
 ward. Take a little of the stew, strain it 
 through a sieve, and having skimmed off the 
 fat, add a little cullis to thicken it. Reduce 
 this over the fire to the consistence of a sauce, 
 serving it over the meat and cabbages. 
 
 BEEF BALLS. Mince very finely a 
 piece of tender beef, fat and lean } mince an 
 onion, with some lx>iled parsley; add grated 
 bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, 
 grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel ; mix all to- 
 gether, and moisten it with an egg beaten ; 
 roll it into balls } flour and fry them in boil- 
 ing fresh dripping. Serve them with fried 
 bread crumbs, or with a thickened brown 
 gravy. 
 
 BEEF BOUILLI. (1) In plain Eng- 
 lish, is understood to mean boiled beef ; but 
 its culinary acceptation, in die French kitch- 
 en, is fresh beef dressed without boiling, and 
 only very gently simmered by a slow fire. 
 Cooks have seldom any notion, dial good soup 
 can be made without destroying a great deal 
 of meat ; however, by a judicious regulation 
 of die fire, and a vigilant attendance on the 
 soup-kettle, this may be accomplished. You 
 shall have a tureen of such soup as \\ ill satisfy 
 the most fastidious palate, and die meat make 
 its appearance at table, at the same time, in 
 possession of a full portion of nutritious succu- 
 lence. This requires nothing more than to 
 stew the meat very slowly (instead of keeping 
 die pot boiling a gallop, as common cooks 
 too commonly do), and to take it up as soon 
 as it is done enough. See " Soup and 
 bouilli," " Beef Shin stewed," " Scotch 
 barley broth." Meat cooked in this manner 
 affords much more nourishment than it does 
 dressed in the common way, is easy of diges- 
 tion in proportion as it is tender, and an in- 
 vigorating, substantial diet, especially valua- 
 ble to the poor, whose laborious employments 
 require support. 
 
 BEEF BOUILLI. (2) Take a ramp 
 of beef, or part of one; bone and tie it togeth- 
 er in a neat form, and put it into a pot, with 
 any odd bits of butcher's meat you may hap- 
 pen to have in die house, eidier beef, veal, or 
 mutton; you may add, also, the Ixmes, feet, 
 and necks of poultry or game, the meat of 
 which has been taken for other dishes ; place 
 your pot on a moderate fire, not quite full of 
 water, and skim gently. When it has boiled 
 a short time, put in some salt, turni) s, six 
 carrots, and six onions, into oneof which yon 
 should stick three cloves; add a bunch of 
 leeks. Let the whole boil gently, till the beef 
 is perfectly done ; then take it out, and serve
 
 BEE 
 
 13 
 
 BEE 
 
 it up either with fresh parsley, with a sauce, 
 or with onions or other vegetables. 
 
 BEEF BROSE. After any lar.:- piece 
 of beef has been taken out i-l'tltr pot it was 
 boiled in, skim off (lie fut with part of the 
 liquor, and boil it in a .-:uir,-paM. Have 
 ready in a Ixml oatineul that has Uvn toasted 
 brown beli.re tlie lire, pour in tlic Ixiiling 
 liquor and stir it a little; if too thick, add 
 more liquor, and send it to table quite hot. 
 
 BEEF BAKED. Let a buttock of beef 
 which has U-t-n in salt about a week, be well 
 washed and put into an earthen pan, with a 
 pint of water; cover the pan tight w ith two 
 or three sheets of foolscap paper let it I take 
 four or live hours in a moderately healed 
 oven. 
 
 BEEF BAKED WITH POTATOES. 
 
 lloil MIMIC potatoes, peel, and pound tiiein in 
 i ntoiuir with one or two small unions; 
 inni.-ti-ii tin-in with milk and an eg) 
 up; add a little salt and |<pi'i- 
 slices of beef, or mutton chops, with salt and 
 pi-pper, and more union, if the flavor is ap- 
 [nnMil; rub the bottom of a pudding dish 
 with Ixitter, and put a lajer of tJ,.- 
 
 . which should U' as thick as a but- 
 ter, and Uien a layer of meat, and so on al- 
 ternately I'll the dish is filled, ending with 
 
 . Bake it in an oven tor one hour. 
 
 I'.Ei'.F TO COLLAR. Cut oft" the end 
 of a brisket of U-ef, and bone it; sprinkle it 
 with :-alt and salt|>elre, and let it lie 
 
 : 'ier sonic grated nutmeg, Jamaica 
 
 and black |M|)|)er t MHM chopped lemon thyme, 
 
 ijoram, and parsley; Mtrew it over 
 
 , mil it up hard, sew it in a clotli, 
 
 put it into a kirgejar of water, tie it closely, 
 
 and bake it in an oven ; take it out of llie 
 
 jar and press it with a heaiy weight. Wlien 
 
 il is quite cold, take off the cloili, and keep 
 
 it dry. 
 
 BEEF BROTH. (Sic Broth.) 
 
 i.l.l.F, COLD RUMP STEAKS TO 
 
 \V A!;\l. Lay them in a gtewpan, with 
 
 union cut in quarters, six berries 
 
 , the same of black |>epper, cover 
 
 jj with Uiiling water, let lliein stew 
 
 me hour, thicken tin- liquor with Ilour 
 
 aa.l butler mblied together on a plate; if a 
 
 pint of gravy, about one ounce of flour, and 
 
 the like weight of butter, will do; put it into 
 
 the slew pan, shake it well ov< r (he lire for 
 
 live miniii.-.-, and it is ready; lay (lie steaks 
 
 ami onion.- on a iii.-h and pour the gravy 
 
 through a sieve over them. 
 
 BEEF Cl'LLIS. (Set Cullu.) 
 
 BEEF, COLD TENDERLOIN. (1) 
 
 Cut off entire the inside of a large sirloin of 
 beef, brown it all over in a stewfian, then 
 add a quart of water, half a pint of Port wine, 
 a tea-cupful of strong beer, two table-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar, some pepper, salt, and a large 
 union finely minced; cover the pan closely, 
 and let it stew till the beef be very tender. 
 Garnish with pickles. 
 
 BEEF, COLD TENDERLOIN. (2) 
 
 ( 'nt oil' I In- meat, with a little of tlie fat, into 
 strips three inches long and half an inch 
 thick ; season with pepper and salt, dredge 
 them with flour, and fry them brown in but- 
 ter ; t hen simmer them in a rich brown gravy ; 
 add of mushroom catchup, onion, and shallot 
 vinegar, a table-spoonful each. Garnish 
 with fried parsley. 
 
 BEEF FILLET IN MADEIRA. Lard 
 
 a good fillet of beef, the same as for roasting, 
 join die ends together, and place it in this 
 manner in a stew pan, w ith some onions, car- 
 rots, and a bouquet garni, some consomme 
 and Madeira, cover it with a buttered paper ; 
 let i( Ixiil for a moment, and afterwards let 
 it boil slowly. Put fire upon tlie top of your 
 slew pan. When it is done strain the broth 
 through a silk sieve, reduce it, and serve it 
 as a sauce to your meat. 
 
 BEEF FILLET ROASTED. This fil- 
 let lies only in tlie inside of the sirloin next 
 
 to the chini', and is the tenderest part of the 
 <>x ; .-pit this on a small spit, but do not run 
 it thnuii','h tlie best pan of the meat: roast i; 
 . and Imste it with butter ; catch gravy 
 in a dish while the beef is roasting; in tin- 
 meantime make a sauce for it with sweet 
 ! .' i ' - and parsley shred fine, tlie yolks of four 
 eggs, an onion, and some orange-peel ch>.p- 
 ped small ; put these into sweet butter, gravy, 
 a |>xiiii"til or two of strong broth and vine- 
 gar, stew them all togetlier. Put your beef 
 into this sauce, and serve it hot. 
 
 BEEF FRICANDEAU. Take a nke 
 bit of lean beef, lard it with bacon, seasoned 
 widi pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice. 
 Put it into a stewpan with a pint of broth, 
 a glass of white wine, a bundle of parsley, all 
 sorts of sweet herbs, a clove of garliek, a 
 .-lullot or two, four cloves, pepper and .-alt. 
 Wlien the meat is become tender, cover h 
 close; skim the sauce well, and strain it. 
 Set it on tlie fire, and let it boil till it is re- 
 duced to a glaze. Glaze the larded side with 
 this, and serve the meat on sorrel sauce. 
 
 BEEF GOBBETS. .Take about six 
 
 pounds of any piece of beef, except die leg or 
 
 whin, cut it >..to pieces abuut die size of a lien's 
 
 t them into a stewpan, and just cover
 
 BEE 
 
 14 
 
 BEK 
 
 them with water, put them over the fire, and 
 when the scum rises, skim it clear oft", then 
 put in some, cloves, mare, allspice, and whole 
 pepper, tied in a muslin, six In 'ads of celery, 
 cut an inch long and well washed, a carrot 
 or two cut iu slices, two turnips cut in dice, 
 a bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper and 
 salt, and a crust of bread; stew it till the 
 -meat is tender, and then take out the spice, 
 herbs, and bread ; have some crusts of French 
 roll crisped before the lire, put them in a dish, 
 and put the meat, &c. over them. You put 
 in two ounces of Scotch barley or rice when 
 you put in the herbs;* 
 
 BEEF GRAVY. (See Gravy.) 
 
 BEEF H-BONE. Is to be managed in 
 exactly the same manner as the round, but 
 will be sooner boiled, as it is not so solid. 
 An H-bone of 201bs. will be done enough in 
 about four hours ; of lOlbs. in three hours, 
 more or less, aa the weather is hotter or 
 colder. Be sure the boiler is big enough to 
 allow it plenty of water-room: let it be well 
 covered with water: set the pot on one side 
 of the fire to boil gently : if it boils quick at 
 first, no art can make it tender alter. The 
 slower it boils, the better it will look, and 
 the tenderer it will be. The same accom- 
 panying vegetables as in "Beef Salt Round." 
 Dress plenty of carrots, as cold carrots are a 
 general favorite with cold beef. Mem. 
 Epicures say, that the soft, fat-like marrow, 
 which lies on the back, is delicious when hot, 
 and the hard fat about the upper corner is 
 bt-st when cold. 
 
 BEEF HASHED. (1) Take three or 
 four on ions, chop them very fine, and put them 
 into a stewpan, with a piece of butter and 
 a little flour ; stir it over the fire till nearly 
 done and well browned; then moisten them 
 with a little stock and half a glass of wine, 
 adding some salt and coarse pepper ; let them 
 stew till they are thoroughly done, and very 
 little s:mce remains; then put in the cold 
 beef, minced small, and let the whole sim- 
 mer till it lias taken the flavor of the onion. 
 When yon serve, add a spoonful of mustard 
 and a little vinegar. 
 
 BEEF HASHED. (2) Cut some of 
 the underdone part of the beef, in slices, 
 with some of the fat, put it into a small 
 stuwpan, with some onion or shallot, (a 
 very little will do), a little water, pep|x-r, 
 and salt: boil it till the onion is quite soft, 
 tlien put some of the gravy of the meat to it, 
 and the hash. , Do not let it boil ; have a 
 small hot dish with sippets of bread ready, 
 and put the hash into it, but first mix a large 
 spoonful of vinegar with it; il'sliallu^vinegar 
 is used there will be no need of the onion or 
 
 | raw shallot. You may add a spoonful of 
 walnut liquor or catchup. Observe, that it 
 is owing to boiling hashes or minces, that 
 they get hard. All sort* of stews, or meat 
 dressed a second time, should be only sim- 
 mered ; and this last only hot through. 
 
 BEEF HAM. Rub a little common salt 
 over a piece of beef of about twenty pounds 
 weight; take out the bone, and in one or two 
 days, rub well into the beef the following in- 
 gredients, finely pounded and well mixed: 
 two ounces of sal-prunella, four oiuices of 
 brown sugar, six ounces of bay salt, one 
 ounce of white pepper, and of cloves and nut- 
 meg, a quarter of an ounce each ; then strew- 
 over it half a pound of common salt. Let it 
 lie fifteen days, turning it daily. It i.s then 
 hung up; or when taken out of the pickle, it 
 may be boiled, and allowed to stand till cold 
 in the water in which it was boiled; or it 
 may be baked in a deep dish, covered with 
 a coarse paste. 
 
 BEEF HEART, TO ROAST. Wash 
 it well, and clean all the blood carefully from 
 the pipes: parboil it ten or fifteen minutes in 
 boiling water; drip the water from it; put 
 in a stuffing which has been made of bread 
 crumbs, minced suet or butter, sweet marjo- 
 ram, lemon thyme, and parsley, season- 
 ed with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put it 
 down to roast while hot, baste it well with 
 butter, froth it up, and serve it with melted 
 butter and vinegar; or with gravy in the 
 dish, and current jelly in a sauce-tureen. 
 To hash it, follow the directions given fijr 
 hare. 
 
 BEEF HUNG, BURGESS'S METH- 
 OD OF BOILING. Hung beef for grat- 
 ing should be put on in boiling water, and, 
 to preserve the color, kept boiling as fast as 
 
 Cible. Allow for six pounds of beef one 
 and a half. It will keep good for a 
 length of time. 
 
 BEEF, HUNTING. Rub well into a 
 round of beef weighing about forty pounds, 
 three ounces of saltpetre ; let it stand five or 
 six hours; pound three ounces of allspice, 
 one of black pepper, and mix them with two 
 pounds of salt, and seven ounces of brown su- 
 gar. Rub the beef all over with the salt and 
 spices, let it remain fourteen days, and every 
 other day turn and rub it with the pickle ; 
 then wash off the spices, and put it into a 
 deep pan. Cut small nearly six pounds of 
 beef suet, put some into the bottom of the 
 pan, but the greater part upon the top of the 
 beef. Cover it with a coarse paste, and 
 bake it eight hours. When cold, take off 
 the crust, and pour off the gravy. It will 
 keep good for three months. Preserve the
 
 I3EE 
 
 15 
 
 BEE 
 
 gravy, as a little of it improves the flavor of 
 nashes, soups, or any made dishes. 
 
 BEEF KIDNEY. Take some kidneys, 
 cut them into thin slices, and broil them wiih 
 apiece of butter, some salt, pepper, parsley, 
 and green onions, and a clove of garlick, the 
 
 whole should Iw shred fine; when they are 
 sufficiently done, take them off t lie lire (they 
 should not broil too long, or they will become 
 tough); add, when you .serve them, a few 
 drops of vinegar and a little cullis. Beef 
 kidneys may likewise be served, with shallot 
 sauce, or sauce piquante. 
 
 BEEF 
 Sauce.) 
 
 KIDNEY SAUCE. (See 
 
 BEEF MINCED. (1) Take some cold 
 roasted fillet of beef, cut out all the fat and 
 suet, then chop the meat as fine as possible, 
 and put it into a reduced Spanish sauce made 
 txiilinu' hot; when ready to serve, add a bit 
 of butter to it. Serve your mince with soft 
 boiled egga round it, or with pieces of toast- 
 ed bread. 
 
 BEEF MINCED. (2) Mince your 
 beef MTV small ; put it into a saucepan with 
 a little gravy and a little of the fat of 
 fowl or any other fat, moisten it with some 
 stock and a little white wine; season accord- 
 ing to your taste, then let it simmer over a 
 gentle fire till it is sufficiently done. 
 
 BEEF OLIVES. Cut the beef into long 
 thin steaks; prepare a forcemeat made of 
 bread-crumbs, minced beef suet, chopped 
 parsley, a little grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, 
 pep|>er, and salt; bind it with the yolks of 
 eggs beaten ; put a layer of it over each steak ; 
 roll and tie them with thread. Fry them 
 lightly in beef dripping; put them in a stew- 
 pan with some good brown gravy, a glass of 
 while wine, and a little Cayenne; thicken it 
 with a little flour and butter; cover the pan 
 closely, and let them stew gently an hour. 
 Bctiire serving, add a tahle-spnonnil of mush- 
 room catchup; garnish with cut pickles. 
 
 BEEF AND OYSTER SAUSAGES. 
 Scald three-quarters of a pint of oysters in 
 their own liquor; take them out and chop them 
 finely ; mince one pound of beef and mutton, 
 and three-quarters of a pound of beef suet; 
 add the ovstcrs, and season with salt, pepper, 
 mace, and two cloxcs |xmuded; Ix-at up tuo 
 egifs, and mix them well with the other ingre- 
 dients, and (Kirk it closely into ajar. NVheu 
 to be used, roll it into the form of small sau- 
 sages; dip them into the yolk of .in egg beat- 
 en up; strew grated bread crumbs over them, 
 or dust with llour, and fry them in fresh 
 dripping. Serve themujxm fried bread hot. 
 
 BEEF PRESSED. Salt a piece of bris- 
 ket (thin |Kirt of the flank) or the tops of die 
 ribs, with salt and s:dl|>cire, five days, then 
 lx>il it gently till extremely tender; put it 
 under a <>ivat weight, or in a cheese press, 
 till peifertK cold. It eats excellently cold, 
 and for sandw idles. 
 
 BEEF POTTED. Take three pounds 
 of lean beef, salt it two or three days witii 
 half a pound of common salt, and half an 
 ounce of saltpetre; divide it into pieces of a 
 pound each, and put it into an- earthen pan 
 just sufficient to contain it; pour in half a 
 pint of w;fter ; cover it close with paste, and 
 set it in a very slow oven for four hours: when 
 taken from the oven pour the gravy from it 
 into a basin, shred the meat fine, moisten it 
 with tlie gravy poured from the meat, and 
 pound it thoroughly in a marble mortar with 
 fresh butter, till it beoomei a fine paste, sea- 
 son it with black pepper and allspice, or 
 cloves pounded/ or grated nutmeg ; put it in 
 pots, press it down as close as possible, put 
 a weight on it, and let it stand all night; 
 ii.-xt day, when it is quite cold, cover it a 
 quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter, 
 and tie it over with paper. 
 
 BEEF SALT ROUND. As this is 
 too large for a moderate family, we shall 
 write directions for the dressing half a round. 
 Get the tongue side. Skewer it up tight and 
 round, and tie a fillet of broad tape round it, 
 to keep the skewers in their places. Put it 
 into plenty of cold water, and carefully 
 catch the scum as soon as it rises : let it boil 
 till all the scum is removed, and thru put the 
 boiler on one side of the fire, to keep sim- 
 mering slowly till it is done. Haifa round 
 of 151bs. will take about three hours: ifit 
 weighs more, give it more time. When you 
 take it up, if any stray scum, &c. sticks to 
 it that has escaped the vigilance of your skim- 
 mer, wash it off with a paste-brush: garnish 
 the dislies with carrots and tuniips. Send 
 up carrots, turnips, and parsnips, or gteens 
 &c. on separate dishes. Peas pudding, and 
 MY PUDDING, are all very proper accom- 
 paniments. N.B. The outside slices, 
 which are generally too much salted and too 
 much 1 mi led, will make a very good relish as 
 potted beef. For using up the remains of a 
 joint of boiled beef, see also Bubble and 
 Squeak. 
 
 BEEF RAGOUT. Take a rump of beef, 
 cut the meat from the bone, flour and fry it, 
 pour over it a little boiling water, about a 
 pint of small beer; add a carrot or two, an 
 ouion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, 
 salt, a piece of lemou-|)ccl, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs; let it stew an hour, then add some 
 good gravy ; when tin- meat is tender take it
 
 BEE 
 
 16 
 
 BEE 
 
 out, strain the sauce, thicken it with a little 
 flour; add a little celery ready boiled, a little 
 catchup, put in the meat, just simmer it up. Or 
 the celery may be omitted, and the ragout en- 
 riched by adding mushrooms fresh or pickled, 
 artichoke-lx>ttoms boiled and quartered, and 
 liard yolks of eggs. A piece of Hank, or 
 any piece that can Ix; cut free from bone, 
 will do instead of the rump. 
 
 BEEF RISSOLES. Chop finely a 
 |x>un:l <;f lean tender lieef, and a quarter of a 
 pound of beef met; pound them in a marble 
 mortar ; mix with it a quarter of a pound of 
 grated bread, a little onion, and a head of 
 gilt-lick bruised ; season with salt and pepper; 
 bind it with three eggs well beaten ; imke it 
 up into small cakes, fry them of a light brown, 
 then stew them in gravy for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 BEEF RIBS BONED AND ROLLED. 
 When you have kept two or three ribs of 
 beef till quite tender, take out the bones, and 
 skewer it as round as possible (like a fillet 
 of veal) : before they roll it, some cooks egg 
 it, and sprinkle it with veal stuffing. As the 
 meat is more in a solid mass, it will require 
 more time at the fire ; a piece of tenor twelve 
 pounds weight will not be well and thoroughly 
 roasted in less than four and a half hours. 
 For the first half hour, it should not be less 
 than twelve inches from the fire, that it may 
 get gradually warm to the centre: the last 
 half hour before it will be finished, sprinkle 
 a little salt over it; and if you wish to froth 
 it, flour it, &c. 
 
 BEEF RUMP BAKED. Take a rump 
 of beef, what size you please, bone and lard 
 it, season it with salt and fine spices put it 
 into a stewpan just large enough to hold it, 
 together with half a pint of white wine, some 
 green onions, mushrooms, and shallots ; some 
 lean bacon is an improvement. Close the 
 edges of the pan with a strong paste ; let it 
 stew in an oven for five or six hours according 
 to the size of your meat, then serve it with 
 its own sauce strained. You may dress a sir- 
 loin in die same way. 
 
 BEEF RUMP TO STEW. (1) Bind 
 the beef tightly, stick in four cloves, and put 
 it in a saucepan, with three quarts of water, 
 a quarter of an ounce of black pepper half 
 beaten, some salt, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 and three anchovies ; turn it often, and when 
 lialf done take it out, pour off the liquor ; put 
 in the beef again, with a pint of 1'oit wine 
 and half a pint of table beer made scalding 
 hot, and some of the liquor strained ; stew it 
 till tender, clwir off the fat, and if the sauce 
 is not strong enough, add well-seasoned beef 
 gravy ; thicken it with flour nibbed duwn in 
 
 a little cold water. Dish the beef, and pour 
 the gravy round it. 
 
 BEEF RUMP TO STEW. (2) Tie 
 
 up the I icrf, and put it on to stew with nearly 
 as much cold water as will cover it; add three 
 pounds of fat bacon cut into slices, a handful 
 of thyme, eight onions, four small carrots, 
 two turnips, two or three bay leaves, nn-.i-- 
 black pepper, a little allspice, mace, and 
 three cloves, a pint of Port wine and one of 
 Sherry. Let it stew gently l>etween seven 
 and eight hours. Take out the l>eef, strain 
 the liquor, and skim off all the fat ; thicken 
 it with a little flour rubbed down in cold 
 water, boil it up, and pour it over the beef. 
 Have ready carrots and turnips, cut accord- 
 ing to fancy, and boiled tender in weak gra- 
 vy, and put diem round die beef before serv- 
 ing. 
 
 BEEF RUMP-STEAKS STEWED. 
 
 The steaks must be a little thicker than for 
 broiling: let diem be all die same diickness, 
 or some will be done too little, and odiers too 
 much. Put an ounce of butter into a stew- 
 pan, widi two onions; when die butter is 
 melted, lay in die rump-steaks, Jet diem stand 
 over a slow fire for five minutes, dien turn 
 diem and let die odier side of diem fry for 
 five minutes longer. Have ready boiled a 
 pint of button onions; they will take from 
 half an hour to an hour ; put die liquor diey 
 were boiled in to die steaks; if diere is not 
 enough of it to cover diem, add brodi or boil- 
 ing water, to make up enough for that purpose, 
 widi a dozen corns of black pepper, and a 
 little salt, and let diem simmer very gently 
 for about an hour and a half , and then strain 
 off as much of die liquor (about a pint and 
 a half) as you think will make die sauce. 
 Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan; 
 when it is melted, stir in as much flour tu 
 will make it into a stiff paste; some add 
 diereto a table-spoonful of claret, or Port 
 wine, die same of mushroom catchup half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt and a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of ground black pepper: add doe 
 liquor by degrees ; let it boil up for fifteen 
 minutes; skim it, and strain it; serve up die 
 steaks widi die onions round the dish,and pour 
 die gravy over. Veal cutlets or mutton chops 
 may be done die same way, or as veal olives. 
 
 BEEF RUMP-STEAK BROILED 
 WITH ONION GRAVY. Peel and slice 
 two large onions, put diem into a quart stew- 
 pan, with two table-spoonfuls of water ; cover 
 die stew pan close, and set it on a slow fire 
 till the water lias INI! led away, and the onions 
 have got a little browned ; dien add half a 
 pint of good brodi, and boil the onions till 
 they are tender ; strain the brodi from diem, 
 ami chop diem very fine, and season it with
 
 BEEF 
 
 17 
 
 BEEF 
 
 mushroom catchup, pepper, and salt : put the 
 onion into it, and let it boil gently for five 
 minutes; pour it into the dial), and lay over it 
 a broiled rump steak. If instead of broth 
 you use good beef gravy, it will be super- 
 lative. 
 
 BEEF SAUSAGES. Take two beef 
 steaks alxxit tin- size of two liamls, and the 
 thickness ot'u linger; heat them well to make 
 them tlat, and pare the edges of them ; then 
 mince the parings with beef suet, parsley, 
 green onions, mushrooms, two shallots, and 
 some basil leave.-:, the whole shred fine, and 
 mixed into a f >reem:'at with the yolks of tour 
 oil;;*; spread this forcemeat on the slices of 
 
 I roll them up in tin- form <>f sausage-" , 
 tie ihem up with jxickthrcad, and slew them 
 with a little stork, a ula.-s of wine, si imcsalt, 
 pcpjxT, an onion stuck with two or three 
 
 carrot, and a parsnip; when they 
 are dune, strain the liquor; and, having 
 skimmed off the fat, reduce it over the fire 
 to the consistence of a since. Take care 
 that the sauce is not loo higly flavored, and 
 serve it over your san-au r > : or they may lx- 
 served with any ragout of vegetables you 
 pleaae. To strve dm sausages cold, to make 
 a di.-h tor the second course, leduce the sauce 
 by lei I ins it boil \\ilii the sausages till almost 
 all the f.rt is consumed; then let ihem stand 
 to cool with what remains of the sauce ad- 
 hering to them, and serve ujxm a napkin. 
 
 BEEF, SHORT OR SPICED. (To 
 
 Ve eaten cold.) Hang up ten or twelve 
 
 pounds of the middle jxirt of a brisket of 
 Out fat three or four days, tln-n nib well into 
 it llirtv ounces of finely pnwdeivd saltpetre, 
 and, if spice is -ipproied of, one ounce of 
 alUpici-, ;id half an mince of black pepper; 
 
 .'id all ni^ht, then silt it with throe 
 pounds of well-|x>undcd l>ay salt, and half a 
 pound of treacle, in which let it remain ten 
 
 Miing il d.iily. When it is to be 
 Ixuled, sew it c|,ely in a cloth, let the water 
 only Mnmicr. upon no account allowing it to 
 Uiil, for nine hours over a slow fire, or u|x>n a 
 slo\e. U'hc i taken out of the water, place 
 two sticks across ibc |xil,and let the beef stand 
 oier die sleam for half an hour, turning il 
 from side to Hide, tlten press it with a lieavy 
 weight. It must not be taken out of the 
 clodi till perfectly cold. 
 
 I'.l. \:V SOUP. (S#eSoMp.) 
 
 I'. I K T, SPRING GARDEN. Cut a 
 piece of Ic in leef into thin slices like Scotch 
 collopn, lard it thick with bacon, and put il 
 into a pan with salt, pcp|>er, mace, two or 
 thre.- bay leaves, and a bunch of sue-t herlis ; 
 Itike il ; then clear out all the gravy, and (ill 
 it up with clarified butter. 
 2* 
 
 BEEF TO SALT FOR IMMEDIATE 
 USE. Salt a round of beef moderately up- 
 on the tops and sides, put it upon sticks, or 
 the IIMI^S of a cheese-tub, over a tub of cold 
 water, and the silt will be drawn through it, 
 so that it will be fit for boiling next day. 
 
 \\OTHER METHOD IS To rub 
 
 for half an hour into any piece of beef a good 
 quantity of salt, and let it lie for tlnee or 
 four days without touching it, when it may 
 be used. 
 
 BKKF SIRLOIN. The noble sirloin of 
 
 alxmt fifteen |x>und>s (if much thicker, the out- 
 side u ill lx? done too much before the inside 
 is enou.'h), will require to be before the fire 
 about three and a half or four hours ; take 
 care to spit it evenly, that it may not be 
 heavier on one side than the other ; put a little 
 clean dripping into the drippingpan, (tie a 
 sheet of pa|XT over it to preserve the fat), 
 baste it well as soon as it is pat down, and 
 e\ei\ quarter of an hour all the time it is 
 roasting, till tin- last half hour; then take 
 off the paper, and make some gravy for it ; 
 stir tile fire and make it clear: to brown and 
 froth it, sprinkle a little sill o-'er it, baste it 
 with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it 
 go a few minutes longer, till the froth rises, 
 take it up, put it on the dish, kc. Garnish it 
 with hillocks of horse-radish, scraped as fine 
 as possible with a very sharp knife. A York- 
 shire pudding is an excellent accompaniment. 
 
 BEEF SHIN STEWED. Desire the 
 
 butcher to saw the bone into three or four 
 pieces, put it into a stewpan, and just cover 
 it with cold wafer; when it simmers, skim 
 it clean ; then put in a bundle of sweet herbs, 
 a large onion, a head of celery, a do/*n ber- 
 ries of black |K<p|N>r, and the same of allspice: 
 stew very gently over a sknv fire till the meat 
 is tender; this will take from alxnit three 
 Iwurs and a half, to four and a half. Take three 
 carrots, |x-el an. I cut ihem into small squares ; 
 peel and cut ready in small squares a couple 
 of turnips, with a couple of dozen of small 
 young round silver bulton onions ; boil them, 
 till tender; the tnrni|>s and onions will be 
 enough in about tiftce-i minutes; the Carrots 
 will require alxmt twice as long: drain them 
 dry. When tlie beef is quite tender, lake it 
 out carefully with a slice, and put it on a dish 
 while you thicken apint and a half of the gra- 
 vy: to do this, mix three tahle-sptMinfuls of 
 Hour with a tea-cupful of the Ix-ef liquor ; stir 
 this ill. ii. Highly together till it boils, skim off 
 the fkt, strain it through a sieve, and put your 
 vcyij|nh|i's in to warm; season will) pepper, 
 Kail, and a wine-gfciss of mushroom catchup, 
 or Port wine, or both, anu pour 't over the 
 beef. Dr. Kitchener commends this dish as 
 one of tin; very liest that can he carried to
 
 BEEF 
 
 18 
 
 BEER 
 
 table, and advises it be called Ragout Beef. 
 A LEG OF MUTTON is excellent dre-.-ed 
 the sauio way. 
 
 BEEF STEAKS, BROILED. Cut 
 
 the steaks oft'a nimp or the ribs of a fore 
 quarter ; beat them well with a rolling-pin. 
 Have the gridiron perfectly clean and heated 
 over a clear quick (ire ; lay on the steaks, 
 and, with meat tongs, keep turning them con- 
 stantly, till they are done enough ; throw a 
 little salt over them a little before taking them 
 oft' the fire. Serve them as hot as possible, 
 plain, or with a made gravy and sliced on- 
 ion, or rub a bit of butter upon the steaks 
 the moment of sen-ing. Mutton chops are 
 broiled in the same manner. 
 
 BEEF STEAKS, STEWED. Fry the 
 
 steaks in a little butler; take them out of the 
 pan, and fry in it a minced onion ; return the 
 steaks, with a little boiling water or gravy, 
 some pepper, salt, and a table-spoonful of vin- 
 egar ; stew them gently for two or three hours ; 
 thicken tiie sauce with butter rolled in flour ; 
 and serve with or without pickles. 
 
 BEEF STEAK PIE. (See Pie.) 
 
 BEEF STEAK PUDDING. (See 
 Pudding.) 
 
 BEEF STEAKS, DRESSED. Cut 
 thin steaks, longer than they are broad, off a 
 rump ; teat them with a rolling-pin ; season 
 them with pepper, salt, and finely minced 
 onion ; roll and tie them with a thread ; cut 
 them even at the ends ; fry them brown with 
 a little I nitter ; make a sauce with a piece of 
 butter browned with flour, some gravy or 
 water, a minced onion, pepper, and salt. 
 Boil it, and add the steaks, and let them stew 
 an hour. Before serving, add some mush- 
 room catchup, and take off the threads. 
 
 BEEF, SCARLET. Mix a little mace, 
 cloves, allspice, black pepper, and salt- 
 petre together, rub it well into two pounds of 
 tender lean lxt,-f ; let it lie six days, turning 
 it daily, anil rubbing it with the pickle ; then 
 roll and tie it firmly with tape; put it and 
 the pickl;; intu a small jar, with a slice or 
 two of beef suet under and over it; tie it close- 
 ly, and bake it an hour. It is eaten cold, 
 cut in thin slices, and garnish with parsley. 
 If long kept, the color fades. 
 
 BEEF STEWED. (1) Stew in five 
 qua ft? c;f water die middle part of a bri.-ket 
 of beef weighing ten pounds, add two onions 
 stuck with two cloves, one head of celery, 
 one large carrot, two turnips cut sn:all, a 
 handful of sorrel leaves, half an ounce of 
 black |>epper, and seine salt. Stew it gent- 
 
 ly for six hours. Make a st'.'on? gravy with 
 ( rrrots and turnips, the MI nip to be scraped 
 and fried of a brown color in butter ; add 
 pepper, salt, a little Cayenne ; thicken it with 
 tluur and butter, and pour it over the beef, 
 with the carrots and turnips. 
 
 BEEF STEWED. (2) Take ten 
 pounds of a brisket of beef, cut the short ribs, 
 and put it into a well-buttered saucepan, with 
 two large onions, stuck with three or four 
 eluves, two or three carrots cut into quarters, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, a small lemon sliced, 
 and five quails of water ; let it stew seven 
 hours. Strain and clarify the <jravv thicken 
 it with butter and flour. Chop the carrots 
 with some eajx-is, mushroom catchup, and 
 Cayenne. Any other pickle that is liked may 
 be added. 
 
 BEEF STOCK. (See Stock.) 
 
 BEEF, MUTTON, OR VEAL TEA. 
 
 Cut a pound of lean gravy meat into thin 
 slices ; put it into a quart and half a pint of 
 cold water ; set it over a very gentle fire, 
 where it will become gradually warm ; when 
 the scum rises, let it continue simmering 
 gently for about an hour ; then strain it 
 through a fine sieve or a napkin ; let it stand 
 ten minutes to settle, and then pour off the 
 clear tea. N. B. An onion, and a few 
 grains of black pepper, are sometimes added. 
 If the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly 
 tender, you may mince it and pound it and 
 make potted beef. 
 
 BEEF TRIPE FRICASSEE. Let 
 your tripe be very white, cut it into slips, 
 put it into some boiled gravy, with a little 
 cream and a bit of butter mixed with flour ; 
 stir it till the butter is melted ; add a little 
 white wine, lemon-peel grated, chopped 
 parsley, pepper and salt, pickled mush- 
 rooms, or lemon-juice ; shake all together ; 
 stew it a little. 
 
 BEER, SPRUCE. When ten gallons 
 of water, six pounds of molasses, and three 
 ounces of bruised ginger have boiled togeth- 
 er for half an hour, two pounds of the outer 
 spriirs i if the spruce fir are to be added, and 
 boiled for five minutes; the whole is then to 
 lx> strained tliroiigh a hair sieve, and when 
 milk-wann, put into the cask, and a tea- 
 cupful of good yeast stirred well into it. 
 When it has fermented a day or two, it is to 
 be bunged up, and the following day bot- 
 tled. It will be fit for use in a week. The 
 t;ii:^fi- is sometimes omitted, and instead 
 of the spruce fir, three ounces of the essence 
 may be used, which is to Ix; well whisked, 
 together widi the molasses, and a gallon or 
 two of warm water; tlien put into the cask,
 
 BEER 
 
 19 
 
 BIS 
 
 which is to be filled up with water, and the 
 \ east added. 
 
 BEER, SPRUCE. (2) The propor- 
 tions are ten gallons of water, three quarts 
 of molasses, a tea-cupful of ginger, the fame 
 of allspice, three ounces of hops, diree 
 ounces ;ind .i half of the essence nf spruce, 
 and half a pint of good yeast. The hops, 
 ginger, and allspice, must be boiled togeth- 
 er till the hops fall to the tattom ; tlie molas- 
 ses and spruce are then to be dissolved in a 
 bucket-full of the liquor, the whole strain- 
 ed into a cask, and the _xea?t \\ell stirred in ; 
 when the fermentationfCeases, the cask is 
 to be bunged up. 
 
 BEER, BALM. Eleven gallons of 
 water and ten pounds of brown sugar are 
 to be clarified with the whites of twelve 
 . carefully skimmed and boiled till 
 Ij reduced to ten gallons; two pounds 
 anil a half of the yellow (lower of lemon 
 balm lieing put into a cask, the liquor, 
 when milk-warm, is to be poured over it, 
 and four or fixe tal>!e-s|x>oiifuls of thick 
 added. The cask must be filled up 
 mm niiiLT and evening with what works over 
 it, and bunded up when the fermentation 
 cca-rs. In .1 month the beer may be tattled, 
 and in txvo or three months it will lie fit for 
 drinking. Half the quantity of tl>e flower 
 of lemon iKilin will probably be found to 
 communicate a flavor sufficiently strong, if 
 added xvlien tlie fermentation is nearly over. 
 
 BEER, GINGER. For a ten-gallon 
 cask, eleven gallons of water, fourteen 
 pounds of sugar, the. juice of eighteen lem- 
 ons, and one pound of ginger are alloxved ; 
 tlie sugar and water are tailed with the 
 whites of eight eggs, and well skimmed; 
 jn>t b.-t'ore coming to the boiling |H>int, tlie 
 ., which mn.-t ta bruised, is then ad- 
 ded, and tailed for twenty minutes; when 
 cold, tlie clear part is put into tlie ca.-k, to- 
 getlier willi the k'inon-juice and two s|xxm- 
 fuL) of je:ist; when it has fermented for 
 three or frtir daxs, it is. lined, bunged up, 
 .'i a fortnight bottled. It may be made 
 w hunt the fruit. 
 
 ;:;;r.K,( MM .KK, QUICKLY MADE. 
 A gallon of boiling water is poured over 
 -quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, one 
 ounce and a quarter of ginger, and the peel 
 of one lemon; xvlien milk-warm, tlie juice 
 of the lemon and a s|x>oiil'nl of yeast are ad- 
 ded. It .-hould ! made in tin- evening, and 
 bottled next morning, in half-pint stone tat- 
 tles, and the cork tied down with twine. 
 
 BEER TO BOTTLE. V 
 
 briskness and liveliness of mult li ; 
 
 die cask fail, and they become dead and 
 vapid, which they generally do soon after 
 they are tilted ; let diem "be tattled. Be 
 careful to use clean and dried tattles; leave 
 them unstopped for twelve hours, and then 
 cork them as closely as possible with good 
 and sound new corks; put a bit of lump su- 
 as big as a nutmeg into each tattle: 
 the beer will be ripe, t. e. tine and spark- 
 ling, in about four or five weeks: if the 
 weather is cold, to put it up (lie day before 
 it is drunk, place it in a room where there 
 is a fire. Remember there is a sediment, 
 &c. at tlie tattoin of the tattles., which you 
 mu>t carefully avoid disturbing; so pour it 
 oft" at once, leaving a wine-glassful at the 
 bottom. 
 
 %* If beer becomes hard or stale, a few 
 grains of carbonate of potash added to it 
 at the time it is drunk will correct it, and 
 make draught beer as brisk as tattled ale. 
 
 BEET ROOT, May be either baked 
 or tailed; it will take from an hour and a 
 half to three hours, according to the size of 
 the root, to cook properly. 
 
 BEET ROOT PICKLED. Boil the 
 roots tender, peel, and cut them in wliat 
 shape you please Put them into a jar, and 
 pour over them a hot pickle of vinegar, pep- 
 per, ginger, and sliced horse-radish. You 
 may add capsicums and Cayenne. 
 
 BENTON SAUCE. (See Sauce.) 
 BENTON CAKES. (See Caket.) 
 BIRDS POTTED, HOW TO PRK- 
 
 SKKVK VVHKN THEY BKGIN TO GROW 
 
 BAIL \Vlien birds have come a great way 
 they often smell so bad that they can scarce- 
 ly be tarne from tlie rankncss of the butter, 
 by managing them in the follow ing manner 
 they may be made as good as ever. Set a 
 l.oi,'e saucepan of clean xxatcr on theiire; 
 when it tails take oft' the tatter at die lop, 
 then take tlie fowls out one by one, throw 
 them into that saucepan of water half a 
 minute, whip it out, and dry it in a clod) 
 inside and out; continue till diey are all 
 done, scald die pot clean ; xx hen tlie birds 
 are quite cold, season them xvith mace, 
 pepper and salt, according to taste, put 
 diem down close in a pot, and pour clari- 
 fied tatter over them. 
 
 BISCUITS. (1) Weigh eight eggs, an 
 equal weight of sugar, and the weight of four 
 in (lour; U-ut up the yolks of five, anil put 
 them in a:i eailii.-n xi .-.*! xxilh some rasped 
 lemon-peel and die sugar, beat them lo^eth- 
 i r lor a long time, then add the xvhitrs of 
 gs also well beaten, tlien mix in the
 
 BIS 
 
 20 
 
 BIS 
 
 flour by degrees, pour this into paper cases 
 of whatever form and size you please ; strew 
 powder sugar over them, and bake in a cool 
 oven. 
 
 BISCUITS. (2) Make a pound of flour, 
 the yolk of an egg, and some milk into a 
 very stiff paste; beat it wejl, knead till quite j 
 smooth, roll very thin and cut into biscuits, 
 prick and bake in a slow oven till dry and 
 crisp. 
 
 BISCUITS, ALMOND. (1) Blanch 
 and pound, a quarter of a pound of sweet al- 
 monds, sprinkling them occasionally with fine 
 sugar; then beat them up for a quarter of an 
 hour with an ounce of flour, the yolks of three 
 eggs, and four ounces of fine sugar, adding 
 afterwards the whites of four eggs whipped to 
 a froth : have ready some paper moulds made 
 like boxes, about the length of two fingers 
 square; butter them within, and put in the 
 biscuits, throwing over them equal quantities 
 of flour and powdered sugar: bake in a cool 
 oven, and when the biscuits are done of a 
 good color, take them out of the papers. 
 Bitter almond biscuits are made in the same 
 manner, with this difference, that to two 
 ounces 'of bitter almonds must be added one 
 ounce of sweet almonds. 
 
 BISCUITS, ALMOND. (2) Take 
 eight ounces of sweet, and as many bitter al- 
 monds, fifteen whites, and eight yolks of eggs, 
 two niinrcs of flour, and two pounds of powder 
 sugar, pour boiling water on your almonds, 
 and almost immediately after turn that away 
 and pour cold water on them ; rub off the 
 skins one by one with a napkins-then pound 
 them to a paste in a mortar, moistening them 
 with the whites of two eggs. Beat the fif- 
 teen whites to a snow, and the eight yolks 
 with half the quantity of the sugar, and" then 
 mix them with the- almond paste; put the 
 remainder of the mgar into a basin ; sift some 
 flour over it ; stir the mixture till all the in- 
 gredients are thoroughly incorporated, and 
 pour it into small pajier cases, glaze them 
 with the sugar and flour silted over them. 
 Bake them in a pretty warm oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, ALMOND ( SMALL). 
 Beat up the yolks of three eggs lor ten min- 
 utes, with four ounces of powder sugar and 
 one ounce of bitter almonds well pounded; 
 then add a whole egg, and beat it up five 
 minutes longer. Whip the whites to u .-innn; 
 froth ; mix them and an ounce and half of 
 fine sifted flour with the yolks; work this 
 paste well, and then pour it into small well- 
 bnttered oopjicr moulds melon-shaped ; glaze : 
 them; sprinkle them with powder sugar, j 
 and bake for eighteen or twenty minutes in i 
 a moderate oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, ALMOND (SOUFFLES). 
 Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, cut 
 them into dice and dry them in the oven. 
 Make a glaze with the whites of two new- 
 laid eggs ; mix tlie almonds and a pinch of 
 crisped orange-flowers into this, and put it 
 into very small paper cases; do not fill them 
 a! HIVC half full, as they rise considerably in 
 the oven, and would otherwise fall over and 
 spoil their appearance; bake them in a 
 moderately heated oven. As soon as they 
 are pretty firm, they are done. 
 
 BISCUITS, ANISE (SMALL). Wash 
 
 four drachms of starred anise, and dry it in 
 the oven; work up the yolks of five cjrgsand 
 a quarter of a pound of powder sugar for 
 about ten minutes; whip the whites to a 
 strong froth, and mix them lightly with die 
 yolks: add a quarter of a pound of dry sifted 
 flour and the anise; pour this paste into a 
 paper case, eleven inches long by seven wide. 
 Bake it in a slow o\en for afx>ut forty or 
 fifty minutes, when, if firm, take it out. As 
 soon as it is cold remove the paper, and cut 
 the biscuits into whatever forms you please: 
 dry thorn in the oven until they become 
 brittle. 
 
 BISCUIT, BREAD. Dry fine flour and 
 powder sugar, of each half a pound, thor- 
 oughly: beat up four very fresh eggs for ten 
 minutes, then add the sugar, beat them ten 
 minutes longer, put the flour, and continue 
 beating ten minutes more. Butter vour bak- 
 ing plates and bake. Caraway or aniseed 
 may be added, if you please. 
 
 BISCUITS, BUTTER. Make a paste 
 as for sweet biscuits, and when you have 
 put in the flour, pour over it eight ounces of 
 melted butter, alter it has cooled a little; 
 mix them together a short time with a wood- 
 en spoon, and put into battered moulds, 
 which must only be filled three parts, as the 
 paste pulfc up considerably, and would rise 
 from the moulds, without care. 
 
 BISCUIT CAKE. (See Cake.) 
 
 BISCUITS, CHESTNUT. Take six 
 ounces of roasted and skinned chestnuts, a 
 little grated lemon-peel, a pound and a half 
 of powder sugar, and ten whites of eggs. 
 Pound the chestnuts to a paste, and then 
 beat it up in an earthen pan with the oilier 
 ingredients; when your paste is of a proper 
 lliic kiu,-s, take it up with a knife, and lay 
 it on paper, and form into biscuits wliatevei 
 size you please. Bake them in a moderate 
 oven, and when of a nice color take them 
 out. Do not remove them from the paper 
 tiU they are cold.
 
 BIS 
 
 21 
 
 BIS 
 
 BISCUITS .DROP. (1) Pound and sift 
 a pound of fine sugar, take the yolks of seven 
 and the whites of ten eggs and beat well sepa- 
 rately for an hour. Dry and sift a pound of 
 fine flour, and when cold mix it with the 
 eggs and sugar, beat all together for a quarter 
 of an hour, drop upon paper, sift sugar over, 
 and bake them. 
 
 BISCUITS, DROP. (2) Beat a pound 
 of sugar, the yolks of four, and whites of two 
 i a little white wine, then put in a 
 pound of (lour, and a few seeds, mix all well 
 together. Butter a paper, lay your batter 
 on in j.|x*JiiUi]--. ire them with line sugar, 
 and set them in a gentle oven. 
 
 BISCUITS EN CAPSULE. Put half 
 a pound of fine sugar into an earthen pan, 
 and pour over it the yolks of twelve eggs ; 
 put the whites into a preserving-pan, and 
 whisk them for half an hour ; in the mean- 
 time the sugar and yolks of eggs must be 
 stirred with a wooden spoon, and pour them 
 n tin- whites; stir them gently, add six 
 ounces of fine flour and two of powder sugar 
 sifted, and tin- grated rind of a lemon. Mix 
 it all well ti>sether, but with great care, lest 
 the snow of tlie whites should fall. With 
 this fill some small buttered moulds, or pa- 
 per cases, and bake them in a quick oven to 
 a deep yellow, first sprinkling them with su- 
 gar. If they are in moulds, turn them out 
 when baked; but tley may remain in the 
 paper cases, which need not be buttered. 
 
 I! 1>( TUTS, FILBERT. Take half a 
 pound of filberts, an ounce of bitter almond*. 
 the whites of *ix, and the yolks of three 
 eggs, an ounce of flour, and half a pound of 
 sugar; blanch and pound the filberts and 
 almonds, adding, occasionally, a little white 
 of egg to prevent their oiling. Beat the 
 white* to a snow, then the yolks, mix the 
 latter with half the sugar; beat them well, 
 and having mixed the other ingredients to- 
 gether, put them into a sieve, and whilst 
 you are heating, sift them into the white*; 
 when all arc thomni^ily incorporated, pour 
 ill- 1 preparation into paper rases, and bake 
 
 tlii-iu in a in. nil-rait- oven. A little grated 
 ii 
 
 lemon-peel, or any otlier aromatic in^ie- 
 
 ilii-nt added to tin- yolks, greatly improves 
 these biscuits. 
 
 lUSCI IT, FRENCH. Weigh five e^. 
 a:nt tlu-ir weight in dried and sifted flour, 
 ami in fin<-ly-|immded loaf sugar; beat the 
 whites i if tin- eggs to a stiff troth, and by 
 degrees U-at in (In- sugar and tlur llnnr. :unl 
 then add the I > -aten yolks ; with a SJMKMI half 
 fill yellow iea-?upH, previously rubimi with 
 butter, a. i- i.- 1 H I < <l -'i ;ar over the top. Bake 
 
 them in a quick nven. Or, drop the biscuit 
 
 in a round form upon sheets of white paper 
 buttered; sift sugar over them. 
 
 BISCUIT, KING'S. Put half a pound 
 of butter into a basin, and work it about 
 well with a wooden spoon ; break six eggs 
 and whisk them well, add a half pound of 
 powder-sugar, and whisk ten minutes longer, 
 and then mix them with the butter ; stir in 
 six ounces of currants, and the same of dried 
 flour. When all is well mixed, drop it, the 
 size of a shilling, on paper, and bake in a 
 quick oven. Take them off while hot. 
 
 BISCUIT, LEMAN'S. Sift and dry 
 a pound of fine flour ; nib it into a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, two ounces of pounded 
 and sifted loaf sugar, and a bit of volatile 
 salt about the size of a nut; mix in as much 
 new milk warmed as will make it into a stiff 
 paste; work it well together, and let it re- 
 main for two or three hours, and then roll it 
 out, and make it into small square biscuits, 
 and into round balls a little flattened ; prick 
 them with a fork, and bake them upon tins 
 in a quick oven. Take care they do not 
 become brown. 
 
 BISCUITS, NAPLES. Put three- 
 quarters of a pound of fine Hour to a pound 
 of fine sifted sugar ; sift both together three 
 times, then add six eggs beaten well, and a 
 spoonful of roee-water; when the oven i 
 nearly hot, bake them, but not too wet. 
 
 BISCUIT, THE NUNS. Take the 
 whites of two/ve eggs, and beat them to a 
 froth ; a pound of almonds, blanch them, and 
 beat them with the froth of the whites of 
 eggs, as it rises ; then take the yolks, and 
 two pounds of fine sugar and beat them well 
 together, then mix the almonds with the 
 sugar and eggs ; then add lialf a pound of 
 flour, with cue peel of four lemons grated, and 
 some citron shred small ; put the composition 
 in little cakcpans, and bake them in a quick 
 oxen, and when they are colored, turn them 
 on tins to harden the bottoms: but before you 
 set them in tile oven again, sift on them some 
 (lonl)le-retined sugar. Let the pans be but- 
 tered, and (ill them halfway. 
 
 BISCUITS, POTATO. (1) Beat the 
 
 yolks of fifteen eggs with a pound of sifted 
 .-iij.ii , ignite the rind of a lemon on a piece 
 of lump Mi-^ar; scrape off the yellow sugar 
 with a knile, and having dried it well, add 
 it to the aln\e. and continue to beat till it 
 becomes quite white; in the meantime whip 
 up an equal iniuiU-r of whites, and mix them 
 lightly with the rest; then sift into it half a 
 l>iiiiii of (Kiiaio (lour; stir it in, and pour 
 the preparation into iraper eases, but not to fill 
 them ; glaze, and place the case* on paper
 
 BIS 
 
 22 
 
 BIS 
 
 laid on a clean baking-tin, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 BISCUIT, POTATO. (2) Beat sepa- 
 rately the yolks and whites of fifteen eggs, and 
 with tile yolks beat a pound of pounded and 
 sifted loaf sugar, and tlie grated peel of a lem- 
 on ; when very light add the whites, and sift in 
 through a silk sieve half a pound of flour of 
 potatoes; mix all lightly together, half fill 
 paper cases, and strew over them roughly 
 pounded sugar, put a piece of paper upon a 
 board, place the paper cases upon it, and 
 bake them in a moderate oven. To ornament 
 them, put here and there upon the top a 
 little red-currant jelly, and serve them. 
 
 BISCUITS, THE QUEEN'S. Take 
 a pound and a half of flour, a pound and a 
 half pf fine sugar, the whites of twenty-four, 
 and the yolks of eighteen eggs, put in cori- 
 ander seeds beaten small at discretion; mix 
 these well together, and make them into a 
 soft paste, add a little soft yeast or not. Lay 
 this paste on paper, or in crusts about two 
 inches broad, and four inches long, set them 
 in a moderate oven, and when they begin 
 to turn brown, take them out, and lay them 
 on paper, in a dry place. 
 
 BISCUITS, RICE. Take the grated 
 rind of a lemon, the whites of sixteen eggs, 
 the yolks of six, half a pound of rice flour, 
 ten ounces of powder sugar, two ounces of 
 apple, and the same of apricot, marmalade, 
 and two ounces of orange-flowers. Pound 
 the marmalades and orange-flo\ -era together, 
 then add the whites of eggs, whipped to a 
 snow ; beat the yolks with the sugar for a 
 quarter of an hour, put them to the rest, and 
 when well mixed in, add the lemon-peel and 
 rice-flour ; work all together, pour the prep- 
 aration into paper cases, bake them in a 
 moderate oven, and glaze them. 
 
 BISCUITS, SMALL. Make a paste 
 with a quarter of a pound of flour, three 
 spoonfuls of fine powder sugar, and the same 
 of marmalade ; add whites of eggs to work 
 it pretty soft; and make this paste to what 
 shape and size you please. 
 
 BISCUITS, SPUNGE. Beat together, 
 for half an hour, four well-beaten eggs, and 
 half a pound of finely-pounded loaf sugar ; 
 then mix in lightly six ounces of dried and 
 sifted flour, and die grated peel of a lemon, 
 or a tea-spoonful of essence of lemon, with a 
 table-spoonful of rose water. Flour the 
 pans, fill them half full, and sift pounded 
 sugar over them. Bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, ST. CLOUD. Sift two 
 ounces of rice-Uour through a tammy into an 
 
 earthen pan, with half a pound of powder 
 sugar, the yolks of four eggs, and a little 
 sirecn lemon grated ; beat them up together 
 for a quarter of an hour: w : hisk the whites 
 df eight eggs to a froth and mix them with 
 the yolks. Put this into buttered moulds or 
 paper cases, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When done take thorn from the mould while 
 hot, and ice them in the following manner: 
 beat up half the white of an egg and two 
 spoonful! of powder-sugar with a wooden 
 spoon, add occasionally a fow drops of lem- 
 on-juice; when it becomes quite white lay it 
 over the biscuits ; and place them in the oven 
 a minute to dry. ^ 
 
 BISCUIT, SUGAR. (1) Theweightof 
 eight eggs in finely-pounded loaf sugar, and 
 of four in dried flour ; beat separately the 
 whites and yolks ; with the yolks beat the 
 sugar for half an hour, then add the whites 
 and the flour, and a little grated nutmeg, 
 lemon-peel, or pounded cinnamon. * Bake 
 them in yellow tea-cups, or drop them upon 
 paper, as the French biscuits. 
 
 BISCUIT, SUGAR. (2) Mix together 
 one pound of dried and sifted flour, the same 
 quantity of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 ten well-beaten eggs, and a few pounded 
 cloves. Drop this upon floured tins, and 
 bake it. 
 
 BISCUIT, SWEET. One pound of 
 flour, half a pound of butter, the same quan- 
 tity of finely-pounded sugar, and two eggs, 
 without being beaten; make it all into a 
 very stiff paste with cool water, roll it out, 
 and to form the biscuits, roll a bit of the 
 paste into a ball about the size of the yolk 
 of an egg, flatten it a little, and place them 
 upon tins to bake. 
 
 BISCUITS, YARMOUTH. Pick and 
 wash half a pound of currants, dry them well, 
 rub a little flour with them, and put them 
 with half a pound of powder-sugar, three- 
 quarters of a pound of sifted flour, and half 
 a pound of fresh butter; mix them into a 
 paste with three eggs, roll it out to the 
 thickness of the eighth of an inch, cut them 
 into what shapes you please. Bake them of 
 a light color in a hot oven. 
 
 BISHOP. Roast four good-sized bitter 
 oranges till they are of a pale brown color; 
 lay them in a tureen, and put over them half 
 a pound of pounded loaf sugar, and three 
 glasses of claret; place the cover on tlie 
 tureen, and let it stand till next day. When 
 required for use, put the tureen into a pan of 
 boiling water, press the oranges with a spoon, 
 and run the juice through a sieve ; then boil 
 the remainder of tlie bottle of claret, taking
 
 BLA 
 
 BLA 
 
 care that it do not burn ; add it to the strain- 
 ed juice, and serve it warm in glasses. 
 
 BLANC. A mixture of butter, salt, 
 water, and a slice of lemon; also as follows: 
 Cut a |xnind of beef met, and the same of 
 fet bacon into dice, half a pound of butter, 
 the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper, one or 
 two onion*, a bunch of parsley, a little thyme, 
 a bay leaf and .-pice. 
 
 111. \\CMANGE. (1) To one ounce of 
 picked isinglass, put a pint of water, boil it 
 till the i-i.'ijas- i- melted, with a bit of cin- 
 namon ; put to it three-quarters of a pint of 
 cream, two ounces of suei :t almonds, six 
 bitter ones blanched and beati.-n, a bit of 
 lemon-|x-el, >\wvti'n it, stir it over the fire, 
 let it boil, strain and let it cool, sqiHfzc in 
 the juice of a lemon, and put into moulds; 
 garnish to your fancy. Blancmange may be 
 colored green by adding spinach-juice; red, 
 by a bit of cochineal in brandy, let it stand 
 half an hour and strain it; yellow with 
 saffron. 
 
 BLANCMANGE. (2) Boil for a few 
 
 minutes a pint and a half of new milk, with 
 an ounce of picked isinglass (if in summer, 
 one ounce and a quarter), the rind of half a 
 lemon jx-eled very thin, a little cinnamon, 
 and a Made of mace, and two and a half 
 ounces of lump suirar: blanch and pound 
 eight or ten bitter, and half an ounce of 
 almonds \ery line, with a spoonful of 
 rose water, and mix them with the milk; 
 strain it through a lawn sieve or napkin into 
 H basin, with half a pint of good cream. 
 Let it stand half an hour; pour it into 
 another basin, leaving the sediment at the 
 bottom, and when nearly cold till it into 
 moulds; when wanted, put jour finger round 
 the mould; (Mill out tiie blancmange; set 
 it in the centre of a dish, and garnish 
 with slices of orange. N. B. About hall" a 
 gill of noyeau may be substituted for the al- 
 monds. 
 
 ULVNCMANGE. (8) Boil till dissolv- 
 ed, in a large tea-cupful of wa'er, three-quar- 
 ters of an oii'ice of isinglass; when milk- 
 wann, add it to a quart of rich cream, with a 
 stick of cinnamon, the perl of a lemon, two or 
 
 three laurel lea\e.-, or a few bitter aln ds ; 
 
 sweeten with |x>undcd loaf sugar; stir it 
 over the fire, and let it boil tor two or three 
 minutes ; strain it through a bit of muslin 
 into a deep dish, and stir it till nearly cold, 
 then jxiur it into an earthen-ware mould or 
 shape; the following day, dip the mould into 
 warm water tor a minute or so, clap it with 
 the hand to loosen the edge, place the glass 
 or china di.-li oxer the mould, and turn it 
 out quickly upon the dish. A much cow- 
 
 heel stock as will half fill the shape may be 
 substituted for the isinglass. 
 
 BLANCMANGE. (4) Blanch and pound 
 with a little ratafia, or ror-e-water, two 
 ounces of sweet, and six bitter almonds ; dis- 
 solve three-quarters of an ounce of i- 
 add it, when milk-warm, to a quart ot'^cxid 
 cream; half milk half cream may be used; 
 mix in the almonds the peel of a small lem- 
 on, and a bit of cinnamon; sweeten it with 
 |x>nndcd loaf suspir, let it stand lor two or 
 three hours, put it into a saucepan, stir it 
 constantly, and let it boil for six or eiuht 
 minutes ; .strain it through a lawn sieve, and 
 stir it till nearly cold, then pour it into a 
 mould. 
 
 BLANCMANGE. (5) Blanch and pound 
 one ounce of sweet almonds with a irlass of 
 sherry, and a table-spoonful of pounded loaf 
 sugar; add it to three-quarters of an ounce 
 of i>in^la-s di:-sol\ed in half a pint of water, 
 and boil it till the flavor of the almond.- Ix: 
 extracted, stirring it all the time; strain it 
 inro'iji a bit of thin muslin, and mix with 
 it a ([iiart of gpod cream; stir it till quite 
 cold, and pour it into a shape. 
 
 BLANCMANGE, AMERICAN. Mix 
 
 half a pint of cold water with two ounces of 
 arrowroot, let it settle for fifteen minute:!, 
 pour off the water, and add a table-spoon- 
 ihl of laurel water, and a little .sugar ; sweet- 
 en a quart of new milk, boil it with a little 
 cinnamon, and half the |x,vl of a lemon ; pick 
 out the cinnamon and lemon, and pour the 
 Ixiilin^ milk upon the arrow-root, stirring it 
 all die time. I'm it into a mould, and turn 
 it out the following day. 
 
 BLANCMANGE, DUTCH. Wash one 
 ounce and a half of isinglass, pour a pint 
 and a ludf of boiling water over it, let it 
 stand for an hour, and then boil it for twen- 
 ty- minutes; strain, and ulien it is nearly 
 cold, add the beaten yolks of six eggs, a 
 pint of Lisbon wine, the peel of one and 
 juice of two lemons, with a stick of cinna- 
 mon, and sweeten uith pounded loaf sugar; 
 stir it over die fire till it Ix^in to simmer, 
 bni do not allow it to Ixiil ; pick out the 
 |xi-l and cinnamon, pour it into H lianin, 
 stir it till nearly cold, and put it into a 
 shape. 
 
 BLANCMANGE EGGS. Make a small 
 hole at the end of four or live large eggs, 
 and let out all the egg carefully ; wash the 
 
 .-hell, drain, and (ill ill m with Maitrm.mire, 
 place them in a deep dish tilled with rice or 
 barley to keep tin-in steady, and when quite 
 cold, m-ully break and (x-cl ol)' I 
 (,'ut the |x-el "f a lemon into delicately fine
 
 BRA 
 
 BRE 
 
 shreds, lay them into a glass dish, and put 
 in the eggs; or serve them in a glass dish 
 with a pink cream round them. 
 
 BLACK COCK, MOOR GAME, AND 
 GROUSE, Are all to be dressed like par- 
 tridges; die black cock will take as, much 
 as a pheasant, and moor game and grouse 
 as the partridge. Send up with them cur- 
 rant-jelly and fried bread crumbs. 
 
 BOILING. See directions at beginning 
 of the book. 
 
 BOLAR CAKE. -See Cake. 
 BRANDY PUDDING. See Pudding. 
 
 BRAISING PAN. A deep well-tinned 
 copper vessel, with two ears, the lid of which 
 must close hermetically, and have a ledge 
 round so that coals or hot ashes may be 
 placed on the top when necessary. 
 
 BRAISING. This is a method of 
 dressing meat, poultry, &c. &c. widiout its 
 undergoing any evaporation. It is done by 
 lining a braising-pan with thin slices of bacon, 
 beef, or veal, upon which place whatever 
 you may intend to braise, and also add 
 carrots, onions, lemons, bay leaf, herbs, 
 pepper and salt. 
 
 BRAWN, A COLLAR OF. Wash, 
 scrape, and clean very thoroughly a large pig's 
 head, feet, and ears; lay them into salt 'and 
 water, with a little saltpetre, for three hours. 
 To make die collar larger, boil two ox heels, 
 with the head, feet, and ears, till all the 
 bones can be taken out easily, dien put the 
 head round die mould, and the feet and small 
 pieces into die middle; put it together while 
 hot, and press it with a heavy weight till it 
 becomes cold. Boil for half an hour, in as 
 much of the liquor as will cover die brawn, 
 one handful of salt, one ounce of pepper, 
 and one or two bay leaves. When cold, 
 pour it over the brawn. 
 
 BRAWN, MOCK. Take die blade bone 
 out of the shoulder, and boil it gendy two 
 hours or more, according to the age of the 
 boar. ' When it is cold, season it very high- 
 ly with pepper, Cayenne, salt, a very little 
 allspice, minced onion, and thyme. Let it 
 lie a night in this seasoning; die following 
 day, make a savoury forcemeat of pounde.d 
 veal, ham, beef suet, minced parsley, thyme, 
 and an onion, a little lemon-peel, salt, nut- 
 meg, pepper, and Cayenne; bind it with an 
 egg beaten, and stuff where die bone has 
 been taken out. Put it into a deep pan with 
 die brown side downwards, and lay under it 
 twigs or small sticks, to keep it from stick- 
 
 ing to the bottom ; poor in a bottle of beer, 
 and put it into the oven. When nearly done, 
 take it out and clear off all the fat, add a 
 bottle of Madeira and die juice of a large 
 lemon, return it to the oven, and bake it till 
 it become as tender as a jelly, so diat a 
 straw will pierce it easily. It the tear is 
 an old one, it will require to be liaked six or 
 seven hours. This dish is eaten hot. 
 
 BRAWN, TO BAKE. Take raw lean 
 brawn, and the same quantity of fat bacon, 
 mince them small, then pound them in a 
 stone mortar, with a handful of ~au> j . season- 
 ed with salt, pepper and ginger, add die 
 yolks of egus, and some vinegar, then put 
 the brawn into a cold paste, lay on butter 
 and bay leaves, make your pie round and 
 bake it. To be eaten cold. 
 
 BREAKFAST CAKE. See Cake. 
 
 BREAD. (1) Put a quartern of (lour into a 
 large basin, with two tea-spoonfuls of salt; 
 make a hole in the middle; dien put in a 
 basin four table-spoonfuls of good yeast ; stir 
 in a pint of milk, lukewarm ; put it in die 
 hole of die flour; stir it just to make it into 
 a thin batter; dien strew a little Hour over 
 die top; dien put it on one side of die 
 fire, and cover it over; let it stand till the 
 next morning ; dien make it into dough ; add 
 half a pint more of warm milk; knead it 
 for ten minutes, and dien set jt in a warm 
 place by die fire for one hour and a half: 
 then knead it again, and it is ready eidier 
 for loaves or bricks: bake diem from one 
 hour and a half to two hours according to 
 the size. 
 
 BREAD. (2) Mix into six pounds of sifted 
 flour one ounce of salt, nearly half a pint of 
 fresh sweet veast as it comes from the brew- 
 ery, and a sufficient quantity of warmed milk 
 to make the whole into a stiff dough ; work 
 and knead it well upon a pasteboard, on 
 which a little flour" has been strewed, for fif- 
 teen or twenty minutes, then put it into a 
 deep pan, cover it with a wanned towel, set 
 it before the fire, and let it rise for an hour 
 and a half, or perhaps two hours ; cut oft" a 
 piece of this sponge or dough ; knead it well 
 for eight or ten minutes, together with flour 
 merely sufficient to keep it from adhering to 
 the board ; put it into small tins, filling diem 
 three-quarters full; dent the rolls all round 
 with a knife, and let them stand a few min- 
 utes before putting diem into die oven. 
 The remainder of the dough must then be 
 worked up for loaves, and baked eidier in 
 or out of a shape. 
 
 BREAD, ALMOND. Take a pound o 
 die best almonds, slice diem die round way,
 
 BRE 
 
 BRE 
 
 beat and sift a pound of double-refined sugar, 
 and strew it over the almonds as you cut 
 them, stirring them frequently to prevent their 
 sticking together ; when all the sugar is used, 
 put them into an earthen basin, with a few 
 carraway seeds, a little gum dragon (dis- 
 solved in rose-water and strained), three 
 grains of musk and ambergris dissolved in 
 fine sugar, and the whites of two eggs beaten 
 to a very light froth, and two spoonfu's of 
 fine flour; when well mixed lay them on 
 wafers the size of macaroons; open them 
 with a knife or bodkin, lest two or three 
 pieces stick together; the quicker you lay 
 them, the better they will look; put them 
 into a well-heated oven, taking care they do 
 not scorch ; when half baked, take tin -in out, 
 wash them with the white of an egg beaten 
 to a froth, grate a little line sugar over them, 
 and bake them about ilalf an hour longer. 
 
 BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDI.VJ. 
 See Pudding. 
 
 BREAD, CHESTNUT. Roast a hun- 
 dred fine chestnuts, being careful not to 
 burn them; peel them well, and pound them 
 with butter and double eream ; pass them 
 through a sieve; add two egg.*, and then 
 strain them again. Weigh your paste, and 
 for every pxind, allow half a pound of 
 powder, a little vanilla in powder, and two 
 ounces of flour; mix these together, and 
 form of the preparation a.- many chestnuts 
 as it will make; lay them on a sheet of 
 wafer paper, Imtter and dorez diem seve- 
 ral times, and then Ixike them in a Int oven. 
 
 BREAD rilKI-'.SECAKES. Slice a 
 large French roll \ei y thin, jmur on it gome 
 boilintr en-am; when cold, add six or eight 
 eggs, half a pound of Imtter melted, some 
 nutmeg, a spoonful of brandy, a little sugar, 
 and half a pound of currant*. 1'ut them in 
 pud' paste as oilier clieesecakcs. 
 
 BREAD, TO SERVE WITH COF- 
 FEE. Whip up the whiles of ten eggs to 
 
 a thick snow; add to tin 'in the yolk- U-.it.-ii 
 with eight ounces of powder-sn^ur, place it 
 o\er ;i chin-coal tin-, ami whip it for halt" an 
 hour, thru take it from tin- lire, and uhip 
 again until cold. Mix in eight ounces of 
 sifted flour. Have ready buttered two 
 moulds lined with paper, (MMir the paste in- 
 to them, and kike them in .1 moderate oven : 
 when dune, take tin-in out of the moulds a-id 
 remove the paper; when <.!, I, cut them in 
 slices about the size of a finger. Place them 
 on a plate of copper, o\er a rhaivoal tire, 
 and when one side is brown, turn them and 
 brown the other side. Tlkt if kept dry 
 will be good for a long time. 
 3 
 
 BREAD CRUMBS, FRIED. Rub bread 
 that has been baked two days, through an 
 iron sieve or cullender ; put them into a stew- 
 pan with two ounces of butter ; place it over 
 a moderate fire, and stir them with a wooden 
 spoon till of a fine gold color; spread them 
 on a sieve, and let them stand ten minute* 
 to drain, turning them often. 
 
 BREAD, FRENCH. Take half a bushel 
 (or six pounds) of flour, put it on the slab, 
 make a hole in the centre, in which put two 
 ounces of yeast ; make your dough with warm 
 water, to about the consistence of briocht; 
 work it up well, adding two ounces of salt, 
 dissolved in a little warm water; cover, and 
 set it in a warm place to rise ; on this part 
 of the operation depends the quality of the 
 bread. Having left the dough one or two 
 hours, (according to the season), knead h 
 ayain, and leave it as before, for two hours. 
 In the meanwhile, heat the oven, divide the 
 dough into eight equal parts, of which form 
 as many loaves, into any shape you please; 
 put them into the oven as quickly as possible. 
 As goon as they are done, rub the crusts with 
 a little butter, which will give it a fine yellow 
 color. 
 
 BREAD, FRENCH, OR ROLLS. 
 Take half a bushel or six pounds of sifted 
 flour, knead it into dough, with two quart* 
 of milk, three-quarters of a pound of warm 
 Ixitter. half a pound of yeast, and two ounces 
 of salt ; when the whole is well worked up, 
 cover, and leave it to rise. In two hours 
 time, form it into rolls, and lay them on 
 tinned plates. Place them in a slow oven. 
 When they have been in an hour, put them 
 into a very hot oven for twenty minute?. 
 Rjtsp them as soon as they are baked. 
 
 BREAD FRITTERS. Boil half a pint 
 of milk till reduced to half, with a little 
 sugar, salt, half a spoonful of orange-flower 
 w.iter, and a little lemon-peel shred fine; 
 have ready some pieces of crumb of bread, 
 cut about the size of half-crowns, but thicker; 
 put tin-in into ilu- milk to soak a little, then 
 drain, flour, and fry them. Glaze them with 
 sugar, and pass the salamander over them. 
 
 BREAD, LONDON. To make London 
 bread, put a bushel of good flour which has 
 been ground a mondi or six weeks, in one 
 end of the trough, and make a hole in the 
 middle i.f it. Take nine quarts of warm 
 wiiter, and mix it with one quart of good 
 yeast; put it into tin; flour, and stir it well 
 with your hands; let it remain until it rises 
 as high as it will go, which will take about 
 an hour and a quarter. Watch it carefully 
 to its ultimate height, and do not suffer it to
 
 BRE 
 
 26 
 
 BRE 
 
 fall; then make up the dough with eight 
 quart.- more of warm water and one pound 
 of salt; work it well with vour hands, and 
 then cover it over with a sack or other coarse 
 cloth. Put the fire into the oven; heat it 
 thoroughly, and by the time it is hot, the 
 dougli \\iil Ix; ready. Next make the dough 
 into loaves, not exceeding four or five pounds 
 each, sweep out the oven clean, and put in 
 the loaves. Shut the oven close, and they 
 will be baked in about two hours anda half; 
 then <>|K'ii llie oven, and draw the bread. In 
 summer the water need not be more than 
 blood warm, but in winter it must be a few 
 degrees higher in heat. During a hard 
 frost, however, the water should be as hot as 
 the hand could bear it, though not sufficiently- 
 hot to .scald the yeast, as that would spoil 
 the whole batch of bread. Oilier quantities 
 of bread are made in the same proportion. 
 
 BREAD, PLAIN SHORT. The same 
 proportions of flour and butter must be used 
 as in the receipt for short bread ; tin's must 
 be mixed together, rolled out, but not made 
 quite so thick as in the rich kind; but in the 
 same form, pricked with a fork, and pinch- 
 ed all round. A little sugar may be added. 
 
 BREAD, RICE. Take a pound of rice, 
 and let it simmer in two quarts of water till 
 it is quite tender; when it is of a proper 
 warmth mix it thoroughly with four pounds 
 of flour, adding yeast and salt, the same as 
 for other bread ; the proper quantity of yeast 
 to be used, is about four spoonfuls; knead it 
 well ; then set it to rise before the fire. A 
 portion of the flour should be reserved to 
 make up the loaves. If the rice should re- 
 quire more water, it must be added, as some 
 rice swells more than other. 
 
 BREAD, SPICED, COMMON. (1) 
 Boil .three pounds of honey in a gallon of 
 water fdr a quarter of an hour; then pour it 
 on the flour in the trough ; mix them together 
 well, until the flour will imbibe no more li- 
 quid; when a little cooled, add three ounces 
 of potash, infused the night before in half a 
 pint of milk, knead the whole well, putting 
 to it some pounded anise. Roll out the 
 paste, and with paste-cutters of various forms, 
 cut it into little figures, lay them on a well- 
 oiled tin, and bake them; when done, wash 
 them over with milk. With this paste 
 spiced nuts are made ; when formed, lay them 
 on tins, and leave jn a warm place for two 
 or three days before they are baked. 
 
 BREAD, SPICED, (2) FLEMISH. 
 
 The evening before you wish to make 
 your spiced bread, dissolve three ounces of 
 white potash in halt' a pint of milk, and set 
 it aside. The next morning put a consider- 
 
 able quantity of sifted flour into a trough, 
 make a hole in the heap, into which pour six 
 pounds of clarified honey ; whilst lx>iling,stir 
 it well with a strong spatula, until the honey, 
 reduced to a firm paste, will imbibe no more 
 j flour, then spread it all over the bottom of 
 the trough, and leave it for alxnit ten or fif- 
 leen minutes; a! the end of that time, i r the 
 paste be sufficiently cool for you tolx-ar your 
 hand on it, rub its surface with the infusion 
 of]X)tash; then let a strong ix.Tson knead it, 
 in the same manner as the bakers knead 
 bread. Have readv a number of different- 
 sized moulds of |iear tree wood, on which 
 are cut (pretty deep) octagons of various di- 
 mensions; then cut your paste into as many 
 pieces as you have moulds, in the following 
 proportions: for the mould containing a 
 pound, take eighteen ounces of paste ; for a 
 half pound, fourteen ounces; a quarter of 
 a pound seven ounces of paste, and so on ; 
 knead each piece separately on the slab, rub 
 them with flour to prevent their adhering, and 
 then put them into the respective moulds; 
 press it down tight; in a minute or two turn 
 them over, place them on a tin plate (pre- 
 viously rubbed with olive oil), and with a 
 soft brush take off what flour, may remain 
 on the surface of die spiced bread, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. Whilst they are 
 baking, dissolve some isinglass in a sufficient 
 quantity of beer, with which, by means of 
 a hair pencil, wash the outside of the spiced 
 bread as soon as it is done; and then, while 
 it is moist and warm, decorate it with 
 blanched almonds, candied lemon and orange 
 peel, cut into dice. You may, if you think 
 proper, cut these sort of sweet meats into 
 very small pieces, and knead them into your 
 paste at first. When they are nearly cold, 
 separate the pieces with a knife. 
 
 BREAD, SHORT. For two poundsof 
 sifted flour allow one pound of butter, salt or 
 fresh ; a quarter of a pound of candied orange 
 and lemon peel, of pounded loaf sugar, 
 blanched sweet almonds, and carraway com- 
 fits, a quarter of a pound each ; cut the lem- 
 on, the orange peel, and almonds into small 
 thin bits, and mix them with a pound and a 
 half of the flour, a few of the caraway com- 
 fits, and the sugar; melt die butter, and when 
 cool, pour it clear from the sediment into the 
 flour, at the same time mixing it quickly. 
 With the hands, form it into a large round 
 of nearly an inch thick, using the remainder 
 of the flour to make it up with ; cut it in- 
 to four, and with the finger and thumb pinch 
 each bit neatly all round the edge ; prick them 
 with a fork, and strew the rest of the carra- 
 way comfits over the top. Put the pieces 
 upon white paper dusted with flour, and 
 then upon tins. Bake them in a moderate 
 oven.
 
 BRO 
 
 BRO 
 
 BREAD, TIPSY. Pare off the cnist, 
 and cut into thin round slices of four or five 
 inches, the crumb of a Uvo|>enny or three- 
 penny roll; spread over eacli bit raspberry 
 or strawlxTry jam, and place die slices one 
 over the other pretty high in :i glass dish, 
 and pour over them as miichshcm, .-weelen- 
 ed with sugar, as the bread will soak in; 
 stick round llic side-:, and over the top, 
 blanched sweet almonds, cut like straws, and 
 pour a custard round it. It may IN; made 
 the day before, or two or three hours la-lore 
 dinner, and with tlie crumb of loaf bread. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE. See SCMCU. 
 
 BRENTFORD ROLLS. Mix widi 
 two pounds of flour a little silt, two ounces 
 of sifted sugar, four ounces of butter, and 
 two eggs beaten with two spoonfuls of yeast, 
 and about a pint of milk ; knead the dough 
 well, and set it to rise liefore the fire. Make 
 twelve rolls, butter tin plates, and set them 
 before the fire again to rise. When of a 
 proper size, bake them for half an hour. 
 
 BRIOCHE. Divide half a quartern of 
 flour into three parts, and knead into one of 
 them half an ounce of yeast and a little warm 
 water, wrap it in a cloth and set it by, in 
 summer time for a quarter of an hour, and 
 in winter tor u whole hour. Wlien it has 
 risen, put it to the remainder of the flour, 
 with a pound and a half of butter, ten eggs, 
 half a glass of water, and nearly an ounce 
 of salt ; knead them together with your hand 
 thoroughly, and then wrap it in a clean nap- 
 kin and leave it nine or ten hours. Cut 
 the paste into the size you wish to make the 
 cakes, moisten, and roll diem in the hand, 
 flatten the top, and gild diem with the 
 yolk of an egg. Half an hour will be 
 sufficient to bake the small ones; large 
 cakes will require an hour and a half. 
 
 BROILING. See directions at begin- 
 ning of the book. 
 
 BROCCOLI. Set a pan of clean cold 
 water on the table, and a saucepan on the 
 fire with plenty of water, and a handful of 
 salt in it. Broccoli is prepared by stripping 
 off all the side shoots, leaving the top; peel 
 off the skin of the stalk H itli a knife; cut it 
 close off at die bottom, and put it into the 
 pan of cold water. When tlie water in the 
 yiewjkui boils, and die broccoli is ready, 
 put it in; let il boil In i-Uy till the stalks 
 
 feel t lei, from leu to twenty minutes; take 
 
 it up with a slice, that you may not break it; 
 let it drain, and serve up. If some of the 
 heads of broccoli are much bitter than tlie 
 others, put them on to boil first, so that they 
 may get ail done together. 06*. It makes 
 
 a nice supper-dish served upon a toast, like 
 asparagus. It is a very delicate vegetable, 
 and \MI must take it up the moment it is 
 done, and send it to table hot. 
 
 BROTH, BARLEY. Chop a leg of 
 
 beef in pieces, boil it in three gallons of 
 water, with a carrot and a crn.-t of bread, 
 till reduced to half; then strain it oft" and 
 put it into the pot again with half a pound 
 of barley, (bur or five heads of celery cut 
 small, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a 
 little chopped parsley, and a few marigolds. 
 Let it boil an hour. Take an old cock or 
 large fowl and put it into the pot, boil till 
 the broth is quite good. Season with salt, 
 take out the onion and herbs, and serve it. 
 The fowl may be omitted. 
 
 BROTH, OF BEEF. Wash a leg or 
 shin of beef very clean, crack die bone in 
 two or three places, add to it any trim- 
 mings you have of meat, game, or poultry 
 (beads, necks, gizzards or feet) and cover 
 them with cold water. Watch and stir it 
 up well from die bottom, and die moment it 
 begins to simmer, skim it carefully. Your 
 brodi must be perfecdy clear and limpid 
 for on this depends die goodness of the 
 soups, sauces, and gravies, of which it is 
 die basis. Then add some cold water to 
 make die remaining scum rise, and skim 
 it again. When die scum has done rising, 
 and die surface of die brodi is quite clear, 
 put in one carrot, a head of celery, two 
 turnips, and two onions. It should not 
 have any taste of sweet herbs, spice or gar- 
 lic; either of these flavors may be added 
 afterward, if desired. Cover it close, set it 
 by die side of die fire, and let it simmer 
 very gently, so as not to waste die brodi, 
 for four or five hours or more, according to 
 die weight of die meat. Strain it dirough 
 a sieve into a clean and dry stone pan, and 
 set it in the coldest place you have. 
 
 dF* This is die foundation of all sorts 
 of soups and sauces, brown and white. 
 
 BROTH, CHICKEN. Take the re- 
 maining parts of a chicken from which 
 panada has been made, all but die rump; 
 skin, and put them into die water it was' 
 first boiled in, widi die addition of a little 
 mace, onion, and a few pepper-corns, and 
 simmer it. When of a good flavor, put to 
 it a quarter of an ounce of sweet almonds 
 beaten with a spoonful of water; boil it 
 a little while, and when cold, take off die 
 fat. 
 
 BROTH, CHICKEN PECTORAL. 
 
 Prepare a chicken in the usual way, and 
 put it into a saucepan with two pints and a 
 half of wnler, two ouncp of pearl barley,
 
 BRO 
 
 28 
 
 BRO 
 
 the same of rice, and two ounces of the best 
 honey; boil all together, skimming well for 
 three hours, until it be reduced to two-thirds. 
 
 BROTH, JELLY. Take a joint of mut- 
 ton, a capon, a fillet of veal, and three quarts 
 of water ; put these into an earthen pan, and 
 boil them over a gentle fire till reduced to 
 half; then squeeze all together, and strain 
 the liquor through a napkin. 
 
 BROTH, MUTTON. Take two pounds 
 of scrag of mutton; to take the blood out, 
 put it into a stewpan, and cover it with 
 cold water; when the water becomes milk- 
 warm, pour it off; then put it in four or five 
 pints of water, with a tea-spoonful of salt, a 
 table-spoonful of best grits, and an onion ; set 
 it on a slow fire, and when you have taken 
 all the scum off, put in two or three turnips ; 
 let it simmer very slowly for two hours, and 
 strain it through a clean sieve. 
 
 BROTH, MUTTON, FOR THE SICK. 
 Have a pound and a half of a neck or loin 
 of mutton ; take off the skin and the fat, and 
 put it into a saucepan ; cover it with cold 
 water, (it will take about a quart to a pound 
 of meat), let it simmer very gently, and 
 skim it well ; cover it up, and set it over a 
 moderate fire, where it may stand gently 
 stewing for about an hour ; then strain it off. 
 It should be allowed to become cold, when 
 all the greasy particles will float'on the sur- 
 face, and becoming hard, can..jbe easily 
 taken off, and the settlings wilF?emain at 
 the bottom. N. B. We direct the meat to 
 be done no more than just sufficiently to be 
 eaten ; so a sick man may have ple'nty of 
 good broth for nothing; as by this manner 
 of producing it, the meat furnishes also a 
 good family meal. This is an inoffensive 
 nourishment for sick persons, and the only 
 mutton broth that should be given to conva- 
 lescents, whose constitutions require replen- 
 ishing with restorative aliment of easy di- 
 gestion. The common way of making it 
 with roots, onions, sweet herbs, &c. &c. is 
 too strong for weak stomachs. Plain broth 
 will agree with a delicate stomach, when 
 the least addition of other ingredients would 
 immediately offend it. 
 
 BROTH, MEAGRE, OR SOUP WITH 
 HERBS. Set on a kettle of water, put in 
 two or three crusts of bread, and all sorts of 
 good herbs ; season with salt ; put in butter, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs ; boil it for an 
 hour and a half: then strain it through a 
 sieve, or napkin. This will serve to make 
 lettuce soup, asparagus soup, soup de aante, 
 &c. with herbs. 
 
 BROTH, MULLAGATAWNY, OR 
 
 CURRY. Make about two quarts of strong 
 veal broth, seasoned with two onions, a 
 bunch of parsley, salt and pepper ; strain it, 
 and have ready a chicken, cut in joints and 
 skinned; put it into the broth, with a table- 
 spoonful of currv -powder ; boil the chicken 
 till quite tender, and a little l>efore serving, 
 add the juice of a lemon, and stir in a tea- 
 cupful of cream. Serve boiled rice to eat 
 \vith this broth. 
 
 BROTH, RICE VEAL. Wash clean 
 six pounds of a knuckle of veal, and cut it 
 in two, put it in a saucepan with four quarts 
 of boiling water, half a pound of rice well 
 washed, a little mace, white pepper, and 
 salt, and a handful of chopped parsley; let 
 it boil for two hours. Serve part of the 
 meat in the tureen with the broth. The 
 thick part of the knuckle may be sent up 
 as a separate dish, with parsley and butter 
 poured over it. 
 
 BRpTH, WHITE. Boil a fowl, and 
 when it is enough, take it up, and put it into 
 a dish ; then boil your cream with a blade of 
 mace, and thicken it with eggs ; then put in 
 the marrow of one lieef bone, and take some 
 of the broth, and mingle them togetlier ; put to 
 it a spoonful of white wine, and let it thick- 
 en on the fire ; then put the fowl hot out of 
 the broth, set it on a chafing-dish of coals, 
 and serve it. 
 
 BROWN ROUX, OR THICKENING. 
 
 Put into a nicely tinned saucepan alwut a 
 pound of fresh butter, melt it slowly, and 
 dredge in flour till it becomes like a paste, 
 carefully stirring it all the time, put it for 
 a ffw minutes ii]xin a quick fire, and then 
 return it to where there is less heat, and 
 stir it till it assumes a light brown color, 
 when it may be put into a jar. These 
 thickenings keep for sometime. 
 
 BROWNING, Is a convenient article 
 to color those soups or sauces of which it is 
 supposed their deep brown complexion de- 
 notes the strength and savo'.iriness of the 
 composition. Burned sugar is also a fa- 
 vorite ingredient with the brewers, who use 
 it under the name of " essontia bina" to col- 
 or tlieir beer : it is also employed by the bran- 
 dy makers, in considerable quantity, to color 
 brandy; to which, besides enriching its com- 
 plexion, it gives that sweetish taste, and ful- 
 ness in the mouth, which custom has taught 
 brandy drinkers to admire, and prefer to 
 the finest Cognac in its genuine state. When 
 employed for culinary purposes, this is some- 
 times made with strong gravy, or walnut 
 catchup. Those who like a gout of acid 
 may add a little walnut pickle. Put half 
 a pound of pounded lump sugar, and. a table*
 
 BUNS 
 
 29 
 
 BUNS 
 
 poonful of water, into a clean iron sauce- 
 pan, act it over a glow fire, and keep stir- 
 ring it with a wooden spoon till it becomes 
 a bright brown color, and begins to smoke; 
 thru add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it 
 by degrees with water, till it is tlw thick- 
 ness of soy; let it boil, take off die scum, 
 and strain the liquor into bottles, which 
 ma-it lx> well stopped: if you have not any 
 of this by you, and you wish to darken tin- 
 color of your sauce*, |xmnd a lea-s|xnful 
 of lump sugar, and put it into an iron spoon, 
 with as much water as will dissolve it; 
 hold it o\er a quirk tire till it liecomes of a 
 very dark brown color; mix it with the 
 soup, &c. while it is hot. 
 
 BRUNSWICK TART. Su Tart. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS TO BOIL. 
 Trim and wash them |>erfectry clean, and 
 let them lie an hour in cold water. Put 
 them on in lx>iliug water, with a little salt, 
 and boil them till tender. l>r,iiu off tin- 
 water, and eerve them hot. 
 
 BUBBLE AM) SQUEAK. Chop small 
 some In 1 1 led white cabbage; season it with 
 pepper and salt . ami fry it with a little butler ; 
 pepper and Itroil some slices of cold boiled 
 salted beef; put the fried cabbage into a dish, 
 and lay round it the slices of broiled beef, 
 and serve it very hot. The beef does best 
 when underdone. 
 
 BUNS, BATH. Rub togetlier, with 
 the hand, one pound of fine flour and a half 
 a pound of butter; beat six eggs, and add 
 them to the flour with a table spoonful of good 
 yenit Mix them all together with half a tea- 
 cup full of milk ; set it in a warm place for 
 an hour; mix in six ounces of sifted sugar, 
 and a few caraway seeds. Mould them in- 
 to buns with a table spoon on a bilking plate ; 
 throw six or eight caraway comfits on each, 
 and lake them in a hot oven alxuit ton min- 
 utes. These quantities should make eight* 
 een bung. 
 
 BUNS, COMMON. Rub four ounces of 
 butter into two pounds of flour, four ounces 
 of sugar, a few Jamaica pepper*, ami a few 
 carraway seeds. Put a s|x>onful or two of 
 cream into a cup of yeast, and as much good 
 milk an will make the alxivo into a huhi 
 paste; set it by the fire to rise. They will 
 bake quickly on tins ; you may add nutmeg. 
 
 .NS, CROSS. To the above mix- 
 ture put one ounce and a half of ground all- 
 spins cinnamon ami mace, mixed, and when 
 half proved, press the form of a cross with 
 a tin mould in the centre, and finish as 
 above. 
 
 8* 
 
 BUNS, PLUM. To two pounds of the 
 plain bun paste, put half a pound of currants, 
 a quarter of a pound of candied orange- 
 peel, cut into small pieces, half a nutmeg 
 grated, half an ounce of mixed spice, such 
 as allspice, cinnamon, &c. Mould them in- 
 to buns, jag them round the edges with a 
 knife, and proceed as above. 
 
 BUNS, PLAIN. To four pounds of siA- 
 ed flour put one pound of good moist sugar ; 
 make a cavity in the centre, and stir in a 
 gill of good yeast, a pint of lukewarm milk, 
 with enough of the flour to make it the thick- 
 ness of crca m ; cover it over, and let it lie 
 two hours ; then melt to an oil (but not hot) 
 one pound of butter, stir it into tile other in- 
 gredients-, with enough warm milk to make 
 it a soft paste ; throw a little flour over, and 
 let them lie an hour; have readv a baking- 
 | platter rubbed over with butter; mould with 
 ] the hand the dungh into buns, about the 
 , size of a la rue. tfgl lay them in rows full 
 i three inches apart ; set them in a uunn place 
 (or half an hour, or till they liave risen to 
 double their si/e: bake them in a hot oven 
 of a good color, and wash them over with 
 a biu-h ilipjx-d into milk when drawn from 
 the oven. 
 
 BUNS, RICHER. Put four pounds of 
 
 fine flour into a wooden bowl; set a sponge 
 
 ' of it with a gill of yeast and a pint of 
 
 | wann niUJj; then mix with it one |xmnd of 
 I sifted MijjR-, one pound of oileil (Ve.-h butter, 
 ! coriander seeds, cinnamon, and mace, a small 
 . quantity of each, pounded Hue. Roll the 
 . paste into liuns, set them on a baking-plate 
 
 rubbed with butter, put them in a moderate 
 I oven to prove; then wash them with a paste- 
 
 bmsh dipped in wann milk, and bake of a 
 I good color. 
 
 BUNS, SCOTS CHRISTMAS. Take 
 
 four pounds of raisins stoned, two and a half 
 
 of currants well cleaned and dried, half a 
 
 pound ofalnionds Manched, of candied orange 
 
 and lemon-peel a quarter of a pound each, 
 
 cut small; of pounded cloves, |x'|>pcr, and 
 
 U'iuger, half an ounce each, tour pounds of 
 
 Hour, and twenty-two ounces of butter. 
 
 ! Then nib the Imiter with the Hour, till well 
 
 1 mixed togetlier; add a little warm water, 
 
 ' and a quarter of a pint of fresh gixxd yeast, 
 
 and work it into a light smooth paste; cut 
 
 I off nearly one-third of the paste, to form the 
 
 sheet or case, and lay it aside ; with the rert 
 
 work up die fruit, sweetmeats, and spices; 
 
 make it into a round form like a thick cheese. 
 
 I Roll out the sheet of paste, lay the Itnu in the 
 
 centre, and gather it all round, closing it at 
 
 the bottom. h\ wetting tlic edges of the paste, 
 
 i and cutting it so as to lie quit. il.u. Turn 
 
 | it up, and run a wire or small skewer through
 
 BUT 
 
 30 
 
 BUT 
 
 from the top to the bottom every here and 
 there, and prick the top with a fork. Dou- 
 ble and flour a sheet of gray (japer, and lay 
 the bun upon it; bind a piece round the 
 sides, also doubled and floured, to keep the 
 bun in a proper shape. Bake it in a mod- 
 erate oven. 
 
 BUNS, SEED. Take two pounds of 
 plain bun dough, and mix in one ounce of 
 caraway seeds, butter the insides of tart- 
 pans, mould the dough into buns, and put 
 one into each pan; set them to rise in a 
 warm place, and when sufficiently proved, 
 ice them with the white of an egg beat to a 
 fijoth, lay some pounded sugar over that, and 
 dissolve it with water splashed from the 
 icing-brush. Bake ten minutes. * 
 
 BURDWAN STEW. Cut into joints a 
 cold fowl or duck, put it into a stewpan, 
 with half a pint of gravy, a large wine-glass 
 of ale, half a one of white wine, the juice 
 of half a lemon, a tea-spooni'ul of soy and 
 Cayenne ; of mushroom catsup, lemon pickle, 
 cucumber vinegar, corach esc.avecke, a des- 
 sert-spoonful each. Heat all thoroughly be- 
 fore serving. 
 
 BUTTER BURNT. Put two ounces of 
 fresh butter into a small frying-pan; when it 
 becomes a dark brown color, add to it a 
 table-s|X)onful and a half of good vinegar, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Obs. This is 
 used as sauce for boiled fish or poached 
 eggs. 
 
 BURNET VINEGAR. See Vinegar. 
 BUTTER BISCUITS. See Biscuits. 
 BUTTER CAKES. See Cakes. 
 
 BUTTER, CLARIFIED. Put the butter 
 in a nice, clean stewpan, over a very clear, 
 slow lire; watch it, and when it is melted, 
 carefully skim off the buttermilk, &c. which 
 will swim on the top; let it stand a minute 
 or two for the impurities to sink to the bot- 
 tom; then pour the clear butter through a 
 sieve into a clean basin, leaving the sediment 
 at the bottom of the stewpan. Obs. But- 
 ter thus purified will be as sweet as marrow, 
 a very useful covering for otted meats, &c. 
 and for frying fish equal to the finest Florence 
 oil; for which purpose it is commonly used 
 by Catholics, and those whose reli<(iniis ten- 
 ets will not allow them to eat viands fried in 
 animal oil. 
 
 BUTTER, FRENCH MELTED. Mix, 
 
 in a stewpan, with a quarter of a |xnmd of 
 fresh bulter, a table-s|x>oi>ful of Hour, a little 
 salt, half a gill of water, lialf a spoonful c.f 
 
 white vinegar, and a little grated nutmeg. 
 Put it on the fire, stir it, and let it thicken, 
 but do not allow it to boil, lest it should taste 
 of tlie flour. 
 
 BUTTER, MELTED. (1) Dust a little 
 flour over a quarter of a pound of butter, put 
 it into a saucepan, with about a wine-glass 
 of water ; stir it one way constantly till it be 
 melted, and let it just boil: a round wooden 
 stick, is the best thing to stir butter with in 
 melting. If the butter is to l)e melted with 
 cream, use the same proportion as of water, 
 but no flour j stir it constantly, and heat it 
 thoroughly, but do not let it boil. To oil 
 butter, cut about a quarter of a pound into 
 slices, put it into a small jar, and place it in 
 a pan of boiling water. When oiled, pour 
 it off clear from the sediment. 
 
 BUTTER, MELTED, (2) Is so simple 
 and easv to prepare, that it is a matter of 
 general surprise, that what is done so often, 
 is so seldom done right. It is spoiled nine 
 times out of ten, more from idleness than from 
 ignorance, and rather because the cook won't 
 than because she can't do it; which can on- 
 ly be the case when housekeepers will not 
 allow butter to do it with. Good melted 
 butter cannot be made with mere flour and 
 water ; there must be a full and proper pro- 
 portion of butter. As it must be always on 
 the table, and is the foundation of almost all 
 our sauces, we have, 
 
 Melted butter and oysters, 
 
 parsley, 
 
 -^ ^ anchovies, 
 
 shrimps, 
 
 lobsters, 
 
 capers, &c. &c. &c. 
 
 I have tried every way of making it; and I 
 trust, that I have written a receipt, (3) 
 which, if the cook will carefully observe, 
 she will constantly succeed in ifivinij satis- 
 faclion. In the quantities of the various 
 sauces I have ordered. 1 have had in view 
 the providing for a family of half a dozen 
 moderate people. Never [xmrsance o\er meat 
 or even put it into the di.-h; however well 
 made, some of the companx may have an 
 antipathy to it; tas'.cs iin- as dillerent as 
 fiiees: moreover, if it is sent up separate in a 
 boat, it will keep hot longer, iiiid what is left 
 may be put by for another time, or used for 
 another purpo.-c. 
 
 BUTTER, MELTED. (3) Keep a pint 
 stew pan; (in- this purpose only. Cut two 
 ounces of bulter into little bir^-, that it may 
 mi-It more easily, and mix uii-iv readiK ; put 
 it into the sk'wpan with a lai ,'; tea-spoon- 
 ful (t. e. alxnit three drachms) of flour, 
 (some ['refer arrow-root, or potato starch)
 
 CAB 
 
 31 
 
 CAKE 
 
 and two table-spoonfuls of milk. When 
 thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonfuls 
 of water; hold it over the fire, and shake it 
 round every minute (all the while the same 
 way), till it just Ix-s^ins to simmer; then let 
 it stand quietly and boil up. It should ) of 
 the thickness of good cream. N. B. Two 
 table-spoonfuls of mushroom catchup, instead 
 of the milk, will make as good mushroom 
 sauce as need be, and is a sii|x-rlativc accom- 
 jKiiiinu-nt to either fish, tle.-h, or fowl. 
 Obi. This is the best way of preparing 
 melted butter; milk mixes with the butter 
 much more easily and more int mutely than 
 water alone can be made to do. This is 
 of proper thickness to be mixed at table 
 with flavouring essences, anchovy, mush- 
 room, or cavice, &c. If in: li- i.ic.cly t.i 
 pour over vegetables, add a little more milk 
 to it. X. 1$. If the butter oils, put a 
 spoonful of cold water to it, and stir it with 
 a spoon; if it is very murh oiled, it must 
 be | M Hired Ixickwards, and forwards from 
 tlie stew|Vn to the sancel>out till it is ri;ht 
 again. MKM. .Melteil Ixjtler mad.- to \x: 
 mixed with flavouring essences, catchaps, 
 &tr. should )>e of the thickness of light bat- 
 ter, tluit it may adhere to tlie fish, &c. 
 
 1U T TKR, OILED. Put two ounces of 
 fresh butler into a saucepan ; set it at a dis- 
 tance from th<- lire, so that it may melt grad- 
 ually, till it comes to an oil; and pour it od 
 quietly from the dregs. Ob. This will 
 supply the place of olive oil ; and by some is 
 preferred to it either for salads or frying. 
 
 BUTTER SAUCE. See Sauce. 
 
 c. 
 
 CABBAGE AND CHEESE SOUP. 
 See Soup. 
 
 CABBAGE, TO STEW. Wash a cab- 
 bage well, slice it as for pickling, and put it 
 into a steupan, with half a tea-cupful of 
 Port wine, and a bit of butter kneaded in 
 flour, a linle salt ami [x-pper; stir it till tlie 
 butter is melted : co\er the pan, and let it stew 
 a little, Inn not to become too left; as it eats 
 
 . p; a id a tahlr-s|toonful of 
 vinegar, give it one lx>il, and serve it hot. 
 Tlie w ine may lie omitted. 
 
 (\l',I'.A(ii:,TO PICKLE. Choose two 
 middling-sized, well-colored, and firm red 
 cabbages, shrrd diem MTV finely, first pulling 
 off the out.- ide leaves; mix with them nearly 
 half a pi.ii'id nf salt, tie it up in a thin doth, 
 and let it haiiu for twelve hours ; then put it 
 into small jar.-, and pour over it cold vinegar 
 
 that has been boiled with a few barberries in 
 it; tie the jar over closely with bladder; or 
 boil, in a quart of vinegar, tlirec bits of gin- 
 ger, half an ounce of pepper, and a quarter of 
 an ounce of cloves. When cold, pour it over 
 tlie red cabbage. 
 
 CAKES. PREPARATORY REMARKS. 
 
 The currants and raisins should be prepared 
 as directed under the article headed, Pud- 
 dings and I'i-s, and tlie flour dried before 
 the fire on a large sheet of white paper, then 
 sifted and weighed. Almonds should be 
 blanched by pouring hot water over them, 
 and, after standing some minutes, taking off 
 th. 1 .-kin, then throwing them into rose or 
 c >ld xvat.T. When not pounded, they should 
 be. cut lengthwise into thin bits. Sugar 
 should be roughly pounded, rolled with a 
 bottle ii|n white paper,and then sifted. All 
 spices, after beinj well dried at tlie fire, should 
 li.- finely (xiunded and sifted. Lemon and 
 orange-|>eel must be pared very thin, and 
 pounded with a little sugar. The butter, 
 after being weighed, should be laid into cold 
 water, or washed in rose water, and if salt, 
 be well washed in several waters. The 
 yolks and whites, of eggs should lie separately 
 and long beaten, then strained; two whisks 
 should be kept exclusively for that pur- 
 pose, as tlie whites especially require to be 
 managed with tlie greatest care. A horn 
 spoon should be used for mixing those cakes 
 which are not directed to be beaten with the 
 hand. To make cakes light, salvolatile, or 
 smelling salts, may be added immediately 
 before putting them into the oven, allowing, 
 to a sponge cake, made of one pound of flour, 
 one tca-epoonfnl ; and two or three to a large 
 plum cake. Cheese cakes, queen cakes, 
 sponge biscuits, and small sponge cakes, re- 
 quire a quick oven till they have risen ; after- 
 wards tlie beat should be more moderate. 
 Plum, seed cakes, and all large kinds, must be 
 well soaked, and therefore do not require a 
 brisk oven. To preserve their color, a sheet of 
 white piper is put over them, and after they 
 have risen and become firm, they are turned 
 round. To ascertain if a large cake be 
 sufficiently done, a broad bladed knife is 
 plunged into the centre of it, and if dry and 
 clean when drawn out, file cake is baked; 
 1 jut if anything adheres to tlie blade, it must 
 in -taut ly lie returned to the oven, and the 
 door closed. When the oven is too hot, it 
 is better to lessen tlie fire than to open the 
 door. 
 
 C VK*K. Take two pounds and a half of 
 dried and sifted flour, tlie same of well clean- 
 ed and dried currants, two |xmnds of fresh 
 butter, two of finely -|x>unded and silted loaf 
 sugar, a nutmeg grated, a lea-spoonful of 
 pounded cinnamon, one ounce of citron and
 
 CAKE 
 
 32 
 
 CAKE 
 
 candied orange-peel, cut small, the yolks of 
 sixteen, and the whites of ten eggs, beaten 
 separately; then with the hand beat the 
 butter to a cream, and add the sugar, then 
 the eggs by degrees, and the flour in the 
 same way, and then the currants, sweetmeats, 
 and spice, one glass of orange-flower water, 
 and one of brandy. Butter a tin pan, line it 
 with white paper buttered, put in die cake, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven four hours. 
 
 CAKE, ALMOND. Blanch half a pound 
 of sweet, and three ounces of bitter almonds ; 
 pound them to a paste in a mortar with 
 orange-flower water; add half a pound of 
 sifted loaf sugar, and a little brandy; whisk 
 separately, for half an hour, the whites and 
 yolks of twenty eggs, add the yolks to the 
 almonds and sugar, and then stir in die whites, 
 and beat them all well together. Butter a 
 tin pan, sift bread raspings over it, put the 
 cake into it, over the top of which strew sifted 
 loaf sugar. Bake it in a quick oven for 
 half or three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 CAKES, ALMOND SMALL. One 
 
 pound of butter beaten to a cream, half a 
 pound of finely-pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 half a pound of dried and sifted flour, and 
 the same quantity of blanclied sweet almond* 
 cut into thin small bits, one well-beaten egg, 
 and a little rose water, must be mixed well 
 together, and with a spoon dropped upon 
 wafer paper or tins, and then baked. 
 
 CAKE, ALMOND. (1) Take eight 
 ounces of Jordan and one ounce of bitter al- 
 monds, blanch and pound them very fine; 
 then beat in with the almonds die yolks of 
 eight eggs, and whisk up die whites to a 
 solid froth. Then take eight table-spoonfuls 
 of sifted .sugar, live spoonfuls of fine flour, a 
 small quantity of grated lemon-peel and 
 pounded cinnamon, and mix all die ingre- 
 dients. Hub die inside of a mould with 
 fresh butter, (ill it with die mixture and bake 
 it of a light color. 
 
 CAKE, ALMOND. (2) Put a gill of 
 flour upon a pie-lxiard, and make a hole 
 in die middle to receive a piece of butter the 
 size of an egg, a little salt, a quarter of a 
 pound of (iiie sugar, and six ounces of sweet 
 almonds ]x>undud very fine: knead die whole, 
 and form it into a cake ; bake, and glaze it 
 with sugar and a hot salamander. 
 
 CAKE, ALMOND. (3) Weigh diree 
 OUSTS in their shells, take the same weight of 
 ftiur, of the finest fresh butter, and of grated 
 loaf -:i^ar. Pound with these ingredients 
 thre ounces of sweet almonds blanched; add 
 a little grated lenion-|xtl, or orange-flower 
 water, and die whites and yolks of diree 
 
 eggs. Continue pounding till die whole 
 forms a smooth paste. Butter the bottom 
 of a baking-pan, and put in the cake widi 
 fire above and below. This cake may be 
 served either hot or cold, widi grated sugar 
 over it. 
 
 CAKES, ANISEED. Put in an earthen 
 pan eight ounces of sugar pounded, and 
 die yolks often eggs ; stir them togetner with 
 a wooden spoon for lialf an hour. In the 
 meantime have the whites of your eggs 
 whipped to a diick snow, and then pour in 
 the sugar and yolks. When thoroughly 
 mixed, add an ounce of good aniseed, pre- 
 viously washed and dried, and ten ounces of 
 flour; stir the whole gently, and then with a 
 spoon lay it on white pa|ier in eakes alxuit 
 die size of a crown-piece ; sprinkle diem widi 
 fine sugar, and l>ake. Remove them from 
 the paper, while hot, widi a knife. 
 
 CAKE, APPLE. Pare and core a doz- 
 en apples, and make them into marmalade, 
 with the zeite of a lemon and a little cinna- 
 mon, a'id pass them through a bolting; put 
 diem into u stewpan, with a spoonful of 
 potato ilonr, half a pound of sugar, and two 
 ounces of butter; dry it over the fire, and 
 when cold add tn it six e<igs, stir them well 
 in, and having buttered a mould, pour your 
 piepntation into it, and bake it in a slow 
 oven ; when done, turn it in a dish and 
 serve it. 
 
 CAKE, ABERDEEN CRULLA. Beat 
 
 to a cream a quarter ot "a pound ol fresh butter, 
 and mix with it the same quantity of pound- 
 ed and sifted loaf sugar, and four well-l>eaten 
 eggs; add flour till thick enough to roll out; 
 cut the paste into oblong pieces about four 
 or five inches in length ; with a paste cutter, 
 divide the centre into three or four strips; 
 wet die edges, and plait one bar over die 
 Other, M as to meet in the centre; dirow 
 diem into boiling lard, or clarified suet; 
 when fried of a light brown, drain them 
 before the fire, and serve them in a napkin, 
 widi or without grated loaf sugar sirewed 
 over them. 
 
 CAKE, BANBURY. Set a sponge with 
 two table-spoonfuls of thick yeast, a gill of 
 warm milk, and a pound of ilonr; when it 
 has worked a little, mix widi it half a pound 
 of currants, washed and picked, half a 
 pound of candied orange and lemon peel cut 
 small, one ounce of spice, such as ground 
 cinnamon, allspice, ginger, and grated nut- 
 meg: mix the whole together with half a 
 pound of honey ; roll out pull" paste a quarter 
 of an inch thick, cut it into rounds with a 
 cutter, about four inches over, lay on each 
 widi a spoon a small quantity of die mixture;
 
 CAKE 
 
 33 
 
 CAKE 
 
 close it round with the fingers in the form 
 of an oval ; place the join underneath ; press 
 it flat with the hand; sift sugar over it, and 
 bake them on a plate a quarter of an hour. 
 
 CAKES, BATH BREAKFAST. Rub 
 into two pounds of flour half a pound of but- 
 ter, and mix with il one pint of milk a little 
 warmed, a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast, 
 four well-beaten eggs, and a tea-s|xxmlul of 
 salt; co\er it, and let it stand before the fire 
 to rise for three-quarters of an hour ; make 
 it into thick cakes about the size of the 
 inside of a dinner plate; bake iln-m in a 
 quick o\en, then cut them into three, that 
 the middle slice, as also the top and bottom 
 may be well buttered. Serve tltem very hot. 
 
 CAKE, BAIRN BRACK. To three 
 
 pounds of dried flour allow one pound of 
 fresh butter, one |x>imd of good brown sugar, 
 two ounces of caraway seede, eight well- 
 beateu fggs, three table-spoonfuls of fresh 
 yeast, and some grated nutmeg ; dissolve the 
 butter in a pint of milk, so as to make the 
 whole into a dough, not very stiff"; work it 
 well; cover it u iih a cloth, and set it before 
 the fire to rise; when well risen, bake it in 
 a buttered tin. When it becomes dry, it 
 may be toasted and eaten with butter. 
 
 CAKES, BONNET. Boil in half a 
 pint of water, for ten minutes, a bit of cin- 
 namon, and of lemon-peel ; strain, and mix it 
 with thru- table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir 
 it over the fire for two or three minutes ; add 
 a bit of butter the size of a walnut ; when 
 cold, ink in the U-alen yolks of two eggs, a 
 little salt ami pepp-r ; I* -at it well, drop a 
 dcMcrt i |n infill of the mixture into boiling 
 lard, then drain them upon tile back of a 
 i when served, throw over pounded 
 loaf sugar. Instead of the salt and pepper, a 
 little pre.-ei\e max Ix: drooped upon each, 
 U-lore tlie sugar is thrown over. 
 
 CAKK. r.AB A. Take the fourth part of 
 two pounds of (lour, lay it on your paste- 
 board or sL'.h, and having made a hole in 
 the middle of it, put in half an ounce of 
 yeast, work it up with one hand, whilst with 
 the oilier you jxiir in w;irm water; make it 
 into ft rather soft paste, put into a wooden 
 bowl, first pricking il in a few places, cover 
 it with a i -loth and let it stand. When it 
 has risen well, take the remainder of the 
 flour, and spread it on the first made paste ; 
 mix them well toother, adding to them 
 half an ounce of salt, six eggs, a pound of 
 fresh butter, half a pound of atoned raising, 
 two ounces of currants, half a glass of Mal- 
 aga wine, and a little saffron in (xiwder. 
 Work them up together thoroughly, roll it 
 i>nt two or three times, and then let it stand 
 
 for six hours; then having buttered a mould, 
 pour in your preparation and bake it. 
 
 CAKE, BOLAR. One pound of flora 
 dried in a slow oven, two spoonfuls of yeast, 
 some almond milk, and water to mix for a 
 sponge ; when raised, beat up three-quarters 
 of a pound of clarified butter, three eggs, and 
 three-quarters of a pound of sugar, well-beat- 
 en till the spoon conies clean away; then 
 add cinnamon powder, candied orange and 
 lemon. Bake in earthen basins, well but- 
 tered ; keep it before the fire till put in the 
 oven. 
 
 CAKE, BOLAR. When the sponge is 
 beat, as for the last, instead of mixing the 
 sugar, il is rolled in the sugar and cinnamon. 
 
 CAKE, DUTCH BOLAR. Done, as 
 above, without sugar ; then prick holes with 
 a sharp pointed knife, and while it is hot 
 pour in three-quarters of a pound of clarified 
 sugar, flavored with cinnamon or orange- 
 flower. Almonds and sweetmeats are pre- 
 viously put in the cake. Ornament your 
 cake with harlequin sugar-plums. This was 
 a favorite cake of Queen Charlotte. 
 
 CAKE, BREAD. Take the quantity 
 of a quartern loaf from the dough when mak- 
 ing white bread, and knead well into it two 
 ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar, and 
 eight of currants. Warm the butler in a 
 tea-cupful of good milk. By the addition 
 of an ounce of batter, or sugar, or an egg or 
 two, you may make the cake better. A 
 tea-cupful of raw cream improves it much. 
 It Is best to bake it in a pan, rather than as 
 a loaf, the outside )>cing less bard. 
 
 CAKE, BRIDE. Take four pounds of 
 fine flour well dried, four pounds of fresh 
 butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pounded 
 and sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mace, and the same quantity of nutmegs; 
 to every pound of flour put eight eggs ; wash 
 and pick four pounds of currants, and dry 
 tii' -in I*-!'. ire the fire; blanch a pound of 
 set almonds, and cut them lengthways, 
 very thin, a pound of citron, a pound of 
 candied orange, a pound of candied lemon, 
 and half a pint of brandy ; first work the 
 Imtter with your hand to a cream, then 
 heat in your sugar a quarter of an hour ; 
 beat the whites of vour eggs to a very strong 
 froth ; mix them with your sugar and but- 
 ter ; beat the yolks half an hour, at least, 
 and mix them with your cake; then put in 
 your (lour, mare, and nutmeg ; keep beating 
 it till the oven is ready ; put in your brandy, 
 and beat the currants and almonds lightly 
 in ; tie three glieets of paper round the bot- 
 tom of your hoop to keep it from running
 
 CAKE 
 
 34 
 
 CAKE 
 
 out ; nib it well with butter, put in your 
 cake, and the sweetmeats in three lays, w itli 
 cake between every lay; after it is risen 
 and cblored, cover it with paper before your 
 oven is stopped up; it will take three hours 
 baking. 
 
 CAKE, BRIE. Take some rich cheese, 
 knead it with a pint and half of flour, three 
 quarters of a |xmnd of butter, and a little 
 salt; moisten it with five or six eggs beaten 
 up; when it is well kneaded, let it stand 
 for an hour ; then form your cake and bake 
 as usual. 
 
 CAKES, BENTON-TEA. Rub into 
 a pound of flour, six ounces of butter, and 
 three spoonfuls of yeast, and make into a 
 paste with new milk; make into biscuits, 
 and prick them with a clean fork. 
 
 CAKES, BUTTER. Beat a dish of 
 butter with your hands to a cream, add two 
 pounds of sifted sugar, three pounds of dried 
 flour, and twenty-four eggs, leave out half 
 the whites, and then teat all together for an 
 hour; when you are going to put it in die 
 oven add a quarter of an ounce of mace and 
 a nutmeg, a little sack and brandy, seeds 
 and currants, if you think proper. 
 
 CAKE, WITHOUT BUTTER. Take 
 the weight of three eggs in sugar, and the 
 weight of two in flour ; when the five eggs are 
 well beaten, gradually add the sugar, and 
 then the flour, with a little grated lemon- 
 peel, or a few caraway seeds. Bake it in 
 a tin mould, in rather a quick oven. 
 
 CAKES, CHESHIRE. Beat for half 
 an hour the yolks of eight, and the whites 
 of five eggs ; add half a pound of pounded 
 and sifted loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound 
 of dried and sifted flour, and the grated 
 peel of a small lemon ; beat all well togeth- 
 er, and bake it in a floured tin. 
 
 CAKES, CARAWAY. (1) Three 
 quarters of a pound of flour, half a pound of 
 butter well rubbed into it, a quarter of a 
 pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some caraway 
 seeds ; make these into a stiff paste with a 
 little cold water, roll it out two or three 
 times, cut it into round cakes, prick them, 
 and bake them upon floured tins. For a 
 change, currants may be substituted for the 
 caraway seeds. 
 
 CAKES, CARAWAY. (2) Mix half 
 a pound of sifted loaf sugar with a pound 
 of flour and a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 add some caraway seeds; make it into a 
 stiff paste, with three well-beaten eggs, and 
 3 little rose water ; roll it out thin, cut it 
 
 into round cakes, prick them with a fork, 
 and bake them upon floured tins in a quick 
 
 CAKES, CURD CHEESE. Boil, in 
 two quarts of cream, the well-beaten yolks 
 of four, and the whites of five eggs; drain 
 oft" the whey gently, and mix with the curd 
 grated nutmeg, pounded cinnamon, three 
 table-spoonfuls of best rose water, as much 
 white wine, four ounces of pounded loaf su- 
 gar, the same quantity of butter beaten to a 
 cream, and of pounded biscuit. Mix all 
 these ingredients well together, and stir in 
 a quarter of a pound of currants. Bake h 
 in a large tin, or in patty-pans lined with 
 paste ; or it may be baked in a dish previ- 
 ously buttered. 
 
 CAKES, CURRANT. (1) Take 
 two pounds of fine flour, one pound and a 
 half of butter, the yolks of five or six eggs, 
 one pound and a half of sugar, six spoonfuls 
 of white wine, three spoonfuls of caraway 
 seeds, two nutmegs', and one pound of cur- 
 rants; beat up the butter with your hand 
 till it is very thin ; dry the flour well ; put in 
 the caraway seeds, and nutmegs, finely grat- 
 ed; afterwards put them all into your bat- 
 ter, with the eirgs, white wine, and rose 
 water; mingle them well together; put in 
 the currants ; let your oven be pretty hot, 
 and as soon as they are colored they will be 
 sufficiently done. 
 
 CAKES, CURRANT. (2) Take half a 
 pound of cleaned and dried currants, the 
 same quantity of dried and sifted flour, a 
 quarter of a pound of pounded sugar, a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, four 
 yolks, and three whites of eggs, both well 
 beaten, and a little grated nutmeg or pound- 
 ed cinnamon; then beat the butter to a 
 cream; add the sugar, and then the eggs 
 and the flour; beat these well for twenty 
 minutes, mix in the currants and the grated 
 nutmeg. Drop the cakes in a round form 
 upon buttered paper, or bake them in small 
 tins in a quick oven. 
 
 CAKES, CURRANT. (3) Take six 
 ounces of currants, the same quantity of 
 pounded loaf sugar, a little grated nutmeg, 
 half a pound of butter, and three-quarters 
 of a pound of dried and sifted flour; nib the 
 butter with the flour till they be well mixed, 
 then add the other ingredients, and bind 
 them with three beaten yolks of eggs, and 
 two or three spoonfuls of rose or orange- 
 flower water; roll it out, and cut it into 
 round cakes with the top of a wine glass or 
 
 CAKE, COMMON. (1) Take
 
 CAKE 
 
 35 
 
 CAKE 
 
 quart.- of flour, mix with it threr-qnarters 
 of a pound of butter, a tea-cupful of fresh 
 yeast, one pint of milk, nine well-beaten 
 Ciiirs, two |x)iinils of well-cleaned currants, 
 our jxmiicl and a h;ilf of jfood brown sugar, 
 the grated |>eel of a lemon, and one nutmeg; 
 a glass of brandy must be stirred in just be- 
 fore it IK' put into a buttered tin. Bake it 
 for two hours or more. 
 
 CAKE, COMMON. (2) Rub into one 
 pound of llour a quarter of a pound of 
 good butter; mix, with two well-beaten 
 eggs, and a table-spoonful of fresh yeast, ;is 
 much warm milk as will make the flour into 
 a very thick batter. Let this remain near 
 the tii,.. oncred with a cloth for an hour, 
 then mix into it six ounces of good brown 
 sugar, and nine ounces of well-cleaned and 
 dried currants ; let it stand again for half 
 an hour, and bake it in a buttered tin for 
 an hour. 
 
 CAKE, COMMON*. (3) One pound and 
 a lialf uf (lour, one pound of good brown su- 
 gar, eij,'lit well-beaten eggs, and one ounce 
 of cam way seeds, are to be mixed together; 
 then add of troli yeast, milk, and of water, 
 one tal)le-s|XMi;it'ul ouch. Let it stand a lit- 
 tle time, and bake it in a floured tin. 
 
 CAKES, COLD HARBOR. Dissolve 
 
 one ounce of butter in as much milk warmed 
 as will make fmr pound^ of flour into a stiff 
 paste; alvcit two pints may be required; 
 add half a tea-spoonful of salt, one egg 
 beaten together with a table-spoonful of 
 yeast; mix it all well, cover it with a 
 cloth, and let it remain before the fire for 
 half an hour; then make it into small 
 round balls, and bake them upon tins in a 
 quick oven. 
 
 C\KF..S, CREAM. (1) Put a pound of 
 flour upon a pie-Niard; make a hole in the 
 middle, put in half a pint of clotted cream, 
 and a little salt; mix the paste lightly, let 
 it stand 1'ir half an hour, then add half a 
 pound of butter; roll it -out, five times, the 
 same as puff paste, and form it into small 
 cakes; gild th<-m with the yolk of egg, and 
 bake in an oven. 
 
 CAKES, CREAM. (2) Sift some 
 
 double-relined sugar; boat the whites of 
 
 S-CM-H or eiijht v.>f*; shake in as many 
 
 It of the sugar; grate in the rind of 
 
 a laix'e li-mou; drop tile froth on n paper, 
 
 laid on tin, in lumps at a distance; sift a 
 
 < T them : set them in a 
 
 moderate oven; the froth will rise; just 
 color them; yon may put raspberry jam, 
 and stick two bottoms together; put them 
 in a cool oven to dry 
 
 CAKES, CREAM. (3) Put into, a 
 stew|Kin, two jrla-ises of cream, a quarter of 
 a |x>und of butter, the rind of a lemon, cut 
 small, a quarter of a pound of (xiwdcr-gugar, 
 and a pinch of salt. Set it on the. lire, and 
 when it Ix-^ins to boil, put it by tin 
 the stove; take out the leiiM>n-|>eel, and add, 
 by degrees, as iit'iclrtlour as the liquid will 
 bear; keep stirring it constantly, and place 
 it on the fire again, for five minutes, then 
 pour it into a basin ; add to it, one by one, 
 as many e;^s as will make the |>a-l'' Mick 
 to the fingers ; put the paste on a .-lab, and 
 make your cakes of a round form. 
 
 CAKES, CANAPES. Roll out three- 
 quarters of a pound of puff paste, keeping it 
 long and narrow; do not let it !>e more than 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and about three 
 inches wide. Cut the paste across with a 
 sharp knife, in slips three-eights of an inch 
 in width, and place them on the cut side, on 
 a baking-plate, each two inches apart; bake 
 them in a hut oven, and when nicely colored, 
 sprinkle them with sugar, and gla/e tlwm. 
 When done, remove diem from t. plate; 
 and just before they are served, mask them 
 with apricot marmalade, or any other you 
 
 nlike better, and arrange them oil your 
 en couronne. 
 
 CAKES, CURD. Take a quart of 
 curds, ei;;lit e^s, leaving out fintr whites; 
 put in sugar, grated nutmeg, and a little 
 flour; mix these well togetner, heat butter, 
 in a frying-pan, drop them in, and fry like 
 fritters. 
 
 CAKES, DERBY OR SHORT. Rub 
 
 in with the hand one pound of butter into 
 two pounds of sifted flour; put one pound 
 of currants, one pound of good moist s,i<;ar, 
 and one egg; mix all together with half 
 a pint of milk: roll it out thin, and cut them 
 into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on 
 a clean baking-plate, and put them into a 
 middling-heated oven for about five minutes. 
 
 CAKE, DIET BREAD. Boil, in half 
 a pint of water, one pound and a half of 
 lump sugar; have ready one pint of eggs, 
 three parts yolk?, in a pan ; pour in the su- 
 U'ar, and whisk it quick till cokl, or about 
 a quarter of an In Kir; then Ftir in two 
 pounds of sifted flour ; case the inside of 
 square tins with while IKIJXT; till them three 
 ports full; sift a little sugar over, and bake 
 it in a warm oven, and while hot remove 
 i IK-HI from (In- moulds. 
 
 ( \KF.. DAII'IIINE. Beat separate- 
 ly the whites and yolks of twenty eggs; to 
 the yolks add a pound of pounded^ am! .-ifted 
 loaf sugar, the grated peel of one lemon, and
 
 CAKE 
 
 36 
 
 two or three table-spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water; then stir in tlie whites, and lightly 
 mix in half a pound of dried and sifted lie mr. 
 Bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 CAKE, FASHION. Mix a handftJ of 
 flour with a pint of good cream, half a pound 
 of beef suet, melted and sifted, a quarter of 
 a pound of |x>wder-sugar, half a pound of 
 raisins, stoned and chopped, dried flowers of 
 orange, a glass of brandy, a little coriander, 
 and salt ; bake it as all other cakes, about an 
 hour, and glaze or garnish it. 
 
 CAKE, FOURRES. Make a puff paste, 
 form it into two equal parts the size of the 
 dish in which you mean to place your cake, 
 and the thickness of two crowns each; then 
 take one of the cakes and put upon it some 
 sweetmeats, leaving about an inch, as a 
 border, all round; wet it with water and 
 place the other cake upon it, draw up the 
 edges carefully with your fingers ; gild them 
 with the yolk of egg, and bake them in an 
 oven. 
 
 In 
 
 CAKE, FRENCH. Twelve eggs, the 
 yolks and whites beaten well and separately, 
 one pound of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 the grated peel of a large lemon, half a pound 
 of sifted and dried flour, the same weight of 
 sifted and dried ground rice, four ounces of 
 sweet, and one of bitter almonds, pounded in 
 a mortar together, with a table-spoonful of 
 orange-flower water. Mix all these ingre- 
 djenLs gradually, and beat them well. Pa- 
 per the pan, and bake the cake for one hour. 
 
 CAKE, FAMILY. Take rice and 
 flour, of each six ounces, the yolks and 
 whites offtine eggs, half a pound of lump 
 sugar, [xninded and sifted, and half an ounce 
 of caraway seeds. Having beaten this one 
 hour, bake it for the same time in a quick 
 oven. This is a very light cake, and is ve- 
 ry proper for young people and delicate 
 stomachs. 
 
 CAKES, RICH GINGERBREAD. To 
 one pound of dried and sifted flour, allow 
 half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, three- 
 quarters of a pound of fresh butter washed in 
 rose water, one pound of treacle, one nutmeg 
 grated, the weight of a nutmeg of pounded 
 mace, and as much of pounded cinnamon, 
 one ounce of pounded ginger, one and a half 
 of candied orange and lemon-peel, cut small, 
 hall' an ounce of blanched sweet almonds, cut 
 it into long thin bits, and two well-lx'atm 
 eggs. Melt the butter with the treacle, and 
 when nearly cold, stir in the eggs and the 
 rest of the Ingredients ; mix all well together, 
 make it into round cakes, and bake them 
 upon tins. 
 
 CAKE, GINGERBREAD. Take two 
 pounds of treacle, two and a quarter of flour, 
 of brown sugar and fresh butter three-quar- 
 ters of a pound each, four ounces of caraway 
 seeds, the same quantity of candied orange- 
 peel cut small, four well-beaten eggs, and 
 half an ounce of pearl ashes; beat the butter 
 to a cream, and mix it with the rest of the 
 ingredients. The next day work it well up, 
 and bake it in a buttered tin. 
 
 CAKE, GLOVE. With flour make into 
 a paste thick enough to roll out, the beaten 
 yolks often eggs, five table-spoonfuls of rich 
 sweet cream, a little sugar, and some carda- 
 mons; cut it into fanciful forms with small 
 tins, and throw them into fresh boiling lard 
 or butter ; when of a light brown color, drain 
 them before the fire. If fried in butter, add 
 a little water to the butter, and make it boil- 
 ing hot. 
 
 CAKES, GIRDLE. Rub three ounces 
 of fresh butter into one pound of flour, with 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt ; moisten with a 
 sufficiency of sweet butter-milk to make it 
 into a paste ; roll it out, and cut it into cakes 
 with a cup or tumbler, and bake them upon 
 a girdle. 
 
 CAKES, HONEY. One pound and a 
 half of dried and sifted flour, three-quarters 
 of a pound of honey, half a pound of finely 
 pounded loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of 
 citron, and half an ounce of orauge-peel cut 
 small, of pounded ginger and cinnamon, three 
 quarters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with 
 the honey, and mix in the other ingredients; 
 roll out the paste, and cut it into .small cakes 
 of any form. 
 
 CAKES, HEART. With your hand 
 work a pound of butter to a cream, then put 
 to it twelve egg.s, with only six <>t' the whites 
 well-beaten, a pound of dried flour, a pound 
 of silted sugar, four spoonfuls of good brandy, 
 and a pound of currants wa.-hed and dried 
 before the fire. As the pans are filled, put 
 in two ounces of candied orange and citron, 
 and continue beating the cake till you put it 
 into the oven. This quantity will be suffi- 
 cient to fill three dozen of middling sized 
 pans. 
 
 CAKES, IRISH SEED. Beat to a 
 cream eight ounces of fresh butter, and a 
 quarter of a pint of rose water, putting in a 
 tiilile-spooiiful of rose water at a time; by 
 decrees, mix into it u pound of sifted loaf 
 sugar, and then nine well-lieaten eggs; add 
 twelve ounces of flour, and three of flour of 
 rice dried and sifted, a quarter of a pound 
 of blanched and pounded sweet or bitter al- 
 monds, a tea-spoonful of essence of lemon,
 
 CAKE 
 
 37 
 
 CAKE 
 
 and one ounce of caraway seeds ; beat all 
 these well together; lke it in a rake tin, 
 
 which must be buttered and liiitil with paper, 
 also buttered. It will require alxmt our hour 
 and a half to bake in a quick oven. It may 
 \x- in i.ir- withoMt tin- a hai nits or the P"^ 
 of lumon. 
 
 < \KF.S, LITTLE. T a pound of flour 
 
 !il a [xiuiul of luni]) 
 
 tine, the ]>eel of two lemons chopped Miiall, 
 and live ounces of butter; mix them thor- 
 oughly; let it stand sometime before tlie fire, 
 then add thro- rill's well beaten, the whites 
 separately, pick tliem with a fork into small 
 lumps, and bake them on a tin: this quanti- 
 ty will make about eighty cakes. Instead 
 of lcin<in-|xvl you may, if you please, add 
 sixty bitter alumm!.-: blanched and beaten 
 with white of egg until they are quite fine. 
 
 CAKES, MANON. Form some puff 
 an under-crust and cover some 
 baking-plates with it; then spread all over 
 them some frangipane, or marmalade, of 
 wliate\er sort you please; add some sweet- 
 meat, and then eo\er witlia \erythin crust ; 
 gild and ornament them, then put them in 
 the oven ; when diey are three pails done, 
 sprinkle them with sugar, and glaze. \Vlien 
 they are glazed put them to finish baking in 
 a more gentle oven, and when done take 
 them out of the tin.-, and serve them either 
 hot or cold. 
 
 rAKT.S, MOM'ROSE. Of dried and 
 sifted flour, pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 and of fresh butler, one |x>und each will Ix- 
 required, also t< Ke well-l>eati n c^'.'-S three 
 quarters of a pound of cleaned and dried 
 currants ; lieat the butter to a cream with the 
 , Id the eggs by degrees, and then the 
 tiour and currants, with two table-spoonfuls 
 of I i i.nly, one of rose water, and half a 
 grated nutmeg; U-at all well together lor 
 twenty or thirty minutes, when it is to be 
 put into small buttered tins, half filling them, 
 and Inking them in a quirk oven. The 
 currants may be omitted. 
 
 CAKES, MEAT. See Meat. 
 
 C V K T. < . \ UNS. Take four pounds of 
 
 veiy line flour, and mix with it three pound* 
 ol Joulile-relined suir-ir, linrK U-at and Ml'ted ; 
 dr\ them by the lire till \oiir other materials 
 are prepared; tike tour pounds of butter, 
 beat it in your hands till it is \ery soft like 
 cream; beat thn t\-f,ur .-__'-. Ic.ix'e. out six- 
 teen wl:.' : reads from all; 
 beat the ri^s and butter together till it aj>- 
 pears like butter, |x>ur in four ..r li\e 
 s|x>ontuls of rnseor nrange- flower water, and 
 bc.it it again; then take your flour and sugar 
 
 with six ounces of caraway seeds ; stre'irfC}^ 
 in by degrees, beating it up all the while} 
 lor two hours togedier; put in as much tinc- 
 tme of cinnamon, or amUrirris, as you 
 please; butter your hoop, and let it stand 
 three hours in a moderate oven. 
 
 CAKES, NUNS' BEADS. Pound in a 
 mortar four ounces of good cheese, with a 
 little salt, tlie beaten yolks of three- eir^s, and 
 some crumbs of bread ; roll them as large as 
 walnuts, cover them with puff paste, and fry 
 them in butter a light brown cUlor. Serve 
 them in a napkin. 
 
 CAKES, OATMEAL. One only shojild 
 be made at a time, as the mixture dries 
 quickly. Put two or three handfuls of meal 
 into a bowl, and moisten it with water 
 merely sufficient to fonn it into a cake; 
 knead it out round and round with the hands 
 upon the paste-board, strewing meal under 
 and over it; it may be made as thin as a 
 wafer, or thicker, according to taste, and 
 put it on a hot iron plate, called a girdle. 
 Bake it till it be a light brown on the under 
 side, then take it off, and toast that side 
 before the fire which was upjxjrmost on the 
 girdle. The toaster is such as is commonly 
 used for heating smoothing irons, having a 
 back to support the cake. To make these 
 cakes soft, they must not be toasted before 
 the fire, but both sides done quickly on the 
 girdle. 
 
 CAKE, PLUM. Three pounds of flour, 
 tliree pounds of currants, three-quarters of a 
 pound of almonds, blanched and beat grossly, 
 about half an ounce of them bitter, four 
 ounces of sugar, seven yolks and six whites 
 of eggs, one pint of cream, two pounds of 
 butter, half a pint of good ale yeast ; mix the 
 eggs and the yeast together, strain them; set 
 die cream on the fire, melt die butter in it ; 
 stir in the almond.-, and half a pint of sack, 
 part of which should be put to the almonds 
 while beating ; mix together the flour, cur- 
 rants and sugar, what nutmegs, cloves and 
 mace are liked : stir these to the cream : put 
 in the yeast. 
 
 CAKES, POTATO CHEESE. (1) 
 Boil and peel half a pound of good potatoes, 
 bruise them in a mortar, and when nearly 
 cold drop in die yolk and white of an egg 
 at intervals, until four have been added, 
 beating the potatoes well all die time; then 
 add a quarter of a pound of sifted bread 
 crumbs, and put in two more eggs. Beat 
 to a cream six ounces offiesii butter, with 
 the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar; 
 [Nit it into the mortar, with die grated peel 
 of one lemon, and mix all thoroughly. Line 
 the patty-pans with paste, fill tliem three
 
 CAKE 
 
 38 
 
 CAKE 
 
 parts full, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 CAKES, POTATO CHEESE. (2) 
 
 Pound in a mortar five ounces of potatoes 
 with four of fresh butter, and the same quan- 
 tity of pounded loaf sugar, the grated peel 
 and juice of half a lemon, three well-beaten 
 eggs, and a table-spoonful of brandy; mix 
 all well together, and bake as before di- 
 rected. 
 
 CAKES, PARLIAMENT. Put into a 
 sauce pan two pounds of treacle, and when 
 it boils, add a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 and pour it upon two pounds of flour; add a 
 little alum, and a bit of pearlash about the 
 size of a nut, and an ounce of ginger. Work 
 it well with the hand till quite smooth; let 
 it stand a day and a night, tlien roll it out 
 very thin, and cut it into oblong cakes. 
 
 CAKE, POUND. (1) Take one pound 
 of dried and sifted flour, the same quantity 
 of sifted loaf sugar, and of fresh butter wasli- 
 ed in j-ose water ; the well-beaten yolks of 
 twelve, and the whites of six eggs ; then 
 with the hand beat the butter to a cream, 
 by degrees add the sugar, then the eggs and 
 the flour; beat it all well together for an 
 hour. Bake it in a tin pan buttered, or in 
 small ones in a quick oven. 
 
 CAKE, POUND. (2) Take of dried 
 and sifted flour, sifted loaf sugar, fresh but- 
 ter, cleaned and dried currants, one pound 
 each, and twelve eggs; then whisk the volks 
 and whites of the eggs, separately, while 
 another with the hand beats the butter to a 
 cream ; and as the froth rises upon the eggs 
 a.dd it to the butter, and continue so doing 
 till it is all beaten in ; mix the flour and 
 sugar together, and add them by degrees; 
 the last thing, mix in the currants, together 
 with a glass of brandy. It will require to 
 be beaten during a whole hour. Bake it in 
 a buttered tin. 
 
 CAKE, POUND. (3) To a pound of 
 sifted sugar, add a pound of fresh butter, and 
 mix them with the hand ten minutes ; put to 
 them nine yolks and five whites of eggs well- 
 beaten; whisk all well, and add a pound of 
 sifted flour, a few caraway seeds, a quarter 
 of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into 
 slices, a few cuirants washed and picked, 
 and mix all together as light as possible. 
 
 CAKE, QUEEN. Beat one pound of 
 butter to a cream, with some rose water, 
 one pound of flour dried, one pound of sifted 
 sugar, twelve eggs ; beat all well together ; 
 add a few currants washed and dried ; butter 
 small pans of a size for the purpose, grate 
 
 sugar over them ; they are soon baked. They 
 
 I may be done in a Dutch oven. 
 
 I 
 
 CAKE, ROYAL. Put a very little lemon- 
 peel, shred fine, into a stewpan, with two 
 ounces of sugar, a small pinch of salt, a 
 piece of butter half the size of an egg, a glass 
 of water, and four or five spoonfuls of flour; 
 stir over the fire till the paste become* thick, 
 and begins to adhere to tlie stew pan ; then 
 take it ofl", put in an egg, and stir it in the 
 
 i paste till it is well mixed ; continue to add 
 one egg at a time, till the paste softens with- 
 out becoming liquid ; then put in some 
 dried orange flowers, and two bitter almond 
 biscuits, the whole shred line; make the 
 paste into little cakes, alxnit the size round 
 of a half-crown ; put them on buttered paper, 
 gild diem with the yolk of an egg beat up, 
 and bake half an hour in an oven moderately 
 hot. 
 
 CAKE, RICH. To two pounds and a 
 half of dried and sifted flour allow the same 
 quantity of fresh butter washed with rose- 
 water, two pounds of finely-pounded loaf 
 sugar, three pounds of cleaned and dried 
 currants, one nutmeg grated, half a pound 
 of sweetmeats cut small, a quarter of a 
 pound of blanched almonds pounded \\ itli a 
 little ro.-e-water, and twenty eggs, the yolks 
 and whites separately beaten. The butter 
 must IK- beaten with the hand till it In-come 
 like cream; then add the sugar, and by 
 degrees the eggs, after these the rest of the 
 ingredients, mixing in at last the currants, 
 with a tea-cupful of brandy, and nearly as 
 much orange-flower water. This mixture 
 must be beaten tovther rather more than 
 an hour, then put into a cakcpan, which has 
 previously been buttered and lined with but- 
 tered paper; fill it rather more than three- 
 quarters full. It should be baked in a 
 ! moderate oxen for tlnee hours, and then 
 j Cooled gradually, by at first letting it stand 
 ! sometime at tlie mouth of tlie oven. 
 
 CAKE, RICE. '(1) Whisk ten eggs for 
 half an hour, add to them half a |x>und of flour 
 of rice, half a pound of pounded and sifted 
 loaf sugar, and the grated peel of two lemons; 
 mix this into half a pound of fresh butter, 
 previously beaten to a cream. Bake tlie 
 cake in a buttered tin. 
 
 CAKE, RICE. (2) Take six ounces of 
 ground rice, six ounces of flour, three-quar- 
 ters of a pound of fine sugar sifted, nine eggs, 
 the yolks and whites beaten separately; mix 
 all well together, grate in tlie rind of a lemon, 
 and beat it well half an hour. 
 
 CAKES, LITTLE RICE. Whisk well 
 six yolks and two whites of eggs; then with
 
 CAKE 
 
 39 
 
 CAKE 
 
 a born spoon beat in six ounces of finely- 
 pounded loaf sugar, add eight ounces of girt- 
 ed ground rice, and (wo tdUMpaooMi of 
 
 oian^e-tlower or roM.- water, or the gi<Ued 
 peel of a lemou, and ju-t befoi v tin- mixture 
 is to be put into tile tins, stir into it six 
 ounces of fresh butter niched ; dust the patty 
 pans with tlour, or rub them with butter; 
 let tliein be half lilled, and bake the cukes 
 in a quirk oven. 
 
 CAKES, SMALL ROUT. Rub into 
 
 one |x<iind of dried and sifted (lour, halt' a 
 pound of butter, six ounces of jHiiinded and 
 sifted loaf sugar, and the yolks of two well- 
 ,'gs; mix them all into a paste with. 
 a little rosewater ; di\iile the quantity, |Mit 
 a few dried currants or caraway seeds into 
 one half; roll out the paste, cut it into small 
 round cakes, and bake them upon buttered 
 tins. 
 
 CAKE RICE, A SWEET DISH. Wash 
 well and drain a quarter of a pound of rice. 
 Boil with a quart of fresh cream the peel of 
 one lemon, and when nearly cold take it out 
 and put in the rice ; place the sauce pan over 
 a slow fire, and wlien the rice ILL- swollen, 
 add a little salt, and sweeten with pounded 
 loaf sugar; when the rice is quite tender, add 
 the yolks of eight eggs, and mix in gradually 
 the beaten whites, with a good bit of fresh 
 butter, and pour it into a mould; turn this 
 round, that the butter may equally cover 
 every part of it, then pour out the butter, and 
 strew over the inside a lay t-r of grated bread ; 
 with a |>a-te brush or a slip of paper, sprinkle 
 all over it some of tin- clarified butter, add 
 more grated bread, pour in the rice, and 
 bake it in a moderate oven (<>r an hour. 
 Turn it out upon a dish, and serve it with 
 .,r w ithout a garnishing of preserved rasp- 
 berries, cherries, or currants. 
 
 CAKES, SPANISH. Rub, till quite 
 fine and smooth, one pound of butter with 
 two pounds of flour, then add a pound of 
 good brown sugar, rolled fin; mix all to- 
 gether \\itli fi>iir well-beaten eggs; break 
 the paste into -mall bits or knobs, and bake 
 them upon floured tins. 
 
 CAKES, SHREWSBURY. Take a 
 
 pound of butter, and put it in a little flat 
 (tin, nib it till it is as fine as cream, then 
 take one pound of powdered sugar, a little 
 cinnamon and mace |xMindcd, and t 
 yolks and whites together ; beat them nh 
 your hand till it is very linhi ; then take one 
 pound and a half of sifted tlour, u<>ik it 
 togetlier, and roll it on your die-.-er, to wliat 
 ixe you like, only very flat, let your o\en ! 
 rather -l,,u. anil let tin-in change their color, 
 tl u-n take them out. 
 
 CA KE, SPONGE. ( 1 ) Weigh ten eggs, 
 and their weight in very- fine sugar, and that 
 of six in flour; heat the yolks with the (lour, 
 and the whites alone, to a very stilt' froth: 
 tlien by degrees mix the whites and the flour 
 with the other ingredients, and beat them 
 well half an hour. Bake in a quick oven an 
 hour. 
 
 CAKE, SPONGE. (2) Take the juice 
 and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs, 
 twelve ounces of tinely-|xmiideil loaf sugar, 
 the same of dried and sifted tlour ; then with 
 a horn s|XM)ii Ix-at the yolks often c<^s, add 
 the sugar by degrees, and beat it till it will 
 stand wheii'dropped froui the spoon ; put in 
 at separate times tile two other eggs, yolks 
 and whites; whisk the ten whites for eight 
 minutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and 
 wlHsn quite stiff, take as much as the whisk 
 will lilt, and put it ii|x>n the yolks and sugar, 
 which must be beaten all the time; mix in 
 lightly the tlour and grated peel, and pour it 
 all gradually over the whites; stir it together, 
 ami hake it in a buttered tin, or in small 
 tins ; do not more than half fill them. 
 
 CAKES, SHORT. Dissolve half a 
 pound of fresh butter in as much milk a* 
 u ill make a pound and a half of flour into 
 a paste, roll it out about a quarter of an 
 inch thick, and cut it into large round cakes. 
 Do them in a fry ing-pan, and serve them hot. 
 They are eaten with butter. 
 
 CAKES, SALLY LUNN. Take. one 
 
 pint of milk quite warm, ,i quarter of a pint 
 of thick sinall-iieer yeast; put them into a pan 
 with flour sufficient to make it as thick as 
 batter, cover it o\er, and let it stand till it 
 has risen as high as it will, i. e. about two 
 hours: add two ounces of lump sugar, dis- 
 solved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk, 
 a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed into 
 your flour very fine ; then make your dough 
 the same as for French rolls, &c. ; and let 
 it stand half an hour; then make up your 
 cakes, and put them on tins: when they nave 
 stood to rise, bake them in a quick oven. 
 Care should be taken never to put your 
 yeast to water or milk too hot, or too cold, as 
 either extreme will destroy the fermentation. 
 In summer it should be lukewarm, in winter 
 a little wanner, and in very cold weather, 
 warmer still. When it has first risen, if you 
 are not prepared, it will not hurt to stand an 
 hour. 
 
 CAKES, SUGAR. Take half a pound 
 of di yd flour, the same quantity of fresh 
 I mtter, washed in rose water, and a quarter 
 of ;i pound of sifted loaf sugar; then mix 
 togetlier the flour and sugar: rub in the but- 
 ter, and add the yolk of an egg beaten with
 
 CAKE 
 
 40 
 
 CALF 
 
 a table-spoonful of cream ; make it into a 
 paste, roll, and cut it into small round cakes, 
 which bake ujxjn a floured tin. 
 
 '' CAKES, TEA. With a pound of flour 
 rub half a pound of butter ; add the beaten 
 yolks of two, and die white of one egg, a 
 quarter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 and a few caraway seeds ; mix it to a paste 
 with a little warm milk, cover it with a 
 cloth, and let it stand before die fire for 
 nearly an hour ; roll out die paste, and cut it 
 into round cakes with die top of a glass, and 
 bake them upon floured tins. 
 
 CAKE, TWELFTH. Two pounds of 
 sifted flour, two pounds of sifted loaf su- 
 gar, two pounds of butter, eighteen eggs, 
 four pounds of currants, one half pound of 
 almonds blanched and chopped, one half pound 
 of citron, one pound of candied orange and 
 lemon peel cut into diin slices, a large nut- 
 meg grated, half an ounce of ground allspice ; 
 ground cinnamon, mace, ginger, and corian- 
 ders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a 
 gill of brandy. Put die butter into a stew- 
 pan, in a warm place, and work it into a 
 smooth cream with the haud, and mix it 
 with the sugar and spice in a pan, (or on 
 your paste board) for sometime ; dien break 
 in die eggs by degrees, and beat it at least 
 twenty minutes ; stir in die brandy, and then 
 the flour, and work it a little; add the fruit, 
 sweetmeats, and almonds, and mix all to- 
 gether lightly ; have ready a hoop cased with 
 paper, on a baking-plate; put in the mixture, 
 smooth it on die lop widi your hand, dipped 
 in milk; put die plate on another, widi saw 
 dust between, to prevent die bottom from 
 coloring too much: bake it in a slow oven 
 four hours or more, and when nearly cold, 
 ice it widi icing. This mixture would make 
 a handsome cake, foil twelve or fourteen 
 inches over. 
 
 CAKE, WHITE. Take of dried and 
 sifted flour ,of fresh butter and of finely-pound- 
 ed loaf sugar, one pound each ; five well-beaten 
 eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, of candied 
 orange and lemon peel, cut small, three quar- 
 ters of an ounce each ; one ounce of cara- 
 way seeds, half a grated nutmeg, a glass of 
 brandy, and a little rose water; then beat 
 the butter to a cream, and add all the other 
 ingredients to it, and at die last mix in one ta- 
 ble-spoonful of fresh yeast ; let the cake rise 
 before die fire for half an hour. Bake it in 
 a buttered tin. Instantly u|x>n taking it 
 out of the oven, with a leather, brush tin- 
 top all over widi the beaten white of an egg, 
 and then sift loaf sugar upon it. Let it 
 stand at die mouth of die oven to harden. 
 
 CAKES, YEAST. Take a pound of 
 
 flour, two pounds of currants, washed and 
 picked, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 a quarter of a pound of List* HI suijar, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of citron and candied orange- 
 peel cut into slices, cinnamon and mace, a 
 small quantity of each pounded and sifted. 
 Make a hole in die centre of die ingredients, 
 put in a gill of sweet wine, a little warm 
 milk, mix all togedier, fill a hoop with it, 
 let it remain till it rises, and bake it. 
 
 CAKES, YORKSHIRE. Take two 
 
 pounds of Hour, and mix with it four ounces 
 of butter, melted in a pint of good milk, 
 three spoonfuls of yeast, and two eggs ; beat 
 all well togedier, and let it rise ; then knead 
 it, and make it Wo cakes: let them rise on 
 tins before you bake, which do in u slow 
 oven. Anodier sort is made as above, leav- 
 ing ont the butter. The first is shorter, die 
 las^ lighter. 
 
 CAKE, BISCUIT. One pound of flour, 
 five eggs well-beaten and strained, eight 
 ounces of sugar, a little rose or orange-flower 
 water, beat the whole dioroughly, and bake 
 it for one hour. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS, WITH OYSTERS. 
 Blanch and clean die brains, then wipe diem 
 dry, dip them into yolks of eggs, and roll 
 them in broad crumbs; fry them in boiling 
 lard till of a good color, drain tliem very 
 dry, and serve with oysters, stewed either 
 white or brown. Garnish with broiled ham 
 cut in Small round pieces. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS. Cleanse two calves' 
 brains, and stew them in stock with two or 
 diree spoonfuls of vinegar, a bunch of pars- 
 ley, scallions, a clove of garlic, three 
 cloves, divine, laurel, and basil; when suffi- 
 ciently stewed, cut each piece of die brain 
 in two, dip diem in a batter made of two 
 handfuls of flour, diluted with a little oil, half 
 a pint of white wine, and salt. Fry them in 
 lard until the batter is crisp and tlie brains 
 of a gold color. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS, WITH FRIED PAR- 
 SLEY. Blanch three or four brains of 
 nearlv an equal si/.e; ]. ailx.il them, and 
 take off the skin; (lien hoil them ri water, 
 with a little salt, vinegar and butter. Serve 
 them with a sauce made of a little browned 
 butter, a table-spoonful of vinegar, some salt 
 and pepper, and some parsley fried very 
 green. 
 
 CALF'S CHITTERLINGS. Cut them 
 open with scissors, wa-li and cleans* 1 them 
 thoroughly, lay them for a night into salt- 
 and-water, then wash them well, parboil, 
 and cut them into small pieces, dip them uv
 
 CALF 
 
 41 
 
 CALF 
 
 to a thick batter, seasoned with pepper, 
 Kilt, anil a little white wine. Fry them of 
 a light brown color in beef dripping; serve 
 
 with a fringe i if fried par.-ley. Or, After 
 lieing parlxiilnl, they may lx- roasted, when 
 they nri.-t ! constantly basted with butter, 
 dredged with tluur to froth them nicely; 
 I uiih melteil liinter, and lemon 
 pickle |x>urcd iiver them. Or, They may 
 DC kiked when, after Ix-ing parlniled, they 
 are rubbed over with butter, and put into 
 (lie .i\i n on an iron frame, which i.- placed 
 in a deep dish. This ulilnn^ frame of 
 white iron, about two inches hi_'h, will be 
 found useful in baking every kind of meat. 
 
 r\i.rsrii.ui>i;<>\, 
 
 Parboil a calf's cluiudrun, and when cold, 
 cut it in pieces about as big as walnuts; 
 Beacon them \\ith salt, |>ep|>er, undue*.', denes, 
 i onion, Hi ra^iin, and par.-lc\ , sined 
 line ; fry them in a ladlel'ul of good broth 
 anil fresh butter; make a sauce of mutton 
 giav\, orange and lemon juice, eggs' yolks, 
 and grated nutmeg; lots up these in.ie.il- 
 
 ents witli the diaudron, tliun dish it and 
 
 ( ALF'S-FEET PUDDIXG. See Pud- 
 dingt. 
 
 CALF'S FEET JELLY. See Jelly. 
 
 CALF'S FEET, POTTED. Boil tire 
 feet a.- |i>r jelly, pick all the meat frum the 
 bones, add to it half a pint of gravy, a little 
 .-ah, pepper, and nutmeg, garlic, a shallot 
 and s<ime shred ham; simmer it fur half an 
 hour, dip a mould into water, put in a lay- 
 er nl the meat, then s une neatly-cut pickled 
 beet root, and some boiled mincc-d pai.-lev, 
 then a layer <>f meat, and so on, till the 
 mould lie filled; when cold, turn it out. 
 li.unish with pickled eggs, beetroot, anil 
 paisley. 
 
 / CALF'S FEET, PLALX. Scald, clean, 
 /and Munch some caKes' lit-l, lx.il them till 
 I the kmes will come out, then stew them in 
 
 a blanc. See ( all".- Head, plain. \Vhcn 
 
 done, drain and serve them with parsley 
 
 and buiti-r. 
 
 CALF'S nr.AP, iiAsiir.i). Boil the 
 
 head almost en. nigh, and lake the meal of 
 tlie beat side neatly from the bone, and lay 
 it in a xmall dish; wa.-h it o\er with die 
 yolks of two eggs, and cover it w ith crumbs, 
 a few hcilw nicely shred, a little pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg, all mixed i. _. t!i- i previously. ; 
 Set tin- dish In-fore tile lire, and keep lurn- 
 iiu il ii'>u and then, that all parts may be 
 rimallv l.i In the meantime slice the 
 i en. .1 head, aud the tongue, [ 
 
 4 
 
 (peeled) ; put a pint of good gravy into a 
 pan, with an onion, a .-mall bunch of herbs, 
 (consisting of |>ars ley, kisil, savory, tarra- 
 gon, knotted marjoram, and a little thyme), 
 a little salt and ('avenue, a .-ballot, a glass 
 of Sherry, and a little oyster liquor: bolt this 
 for a lew minutes, anil strain it upon the 
 meat, which must be sprinkled with flour. 
 Add some fresh or pickled mushrooms, a 
 few n ulih* and morels, and two s|>oonfuU of 
 catchup; Ix-at up half the brains, and put 
 (hem to the rest, with a bit of butter and 
 flour. Simmer the whole. Beat the other 
 part of the brains with shred lemon-peel, a 
 little nutmeg and mace, some parsley shred, 
 and an egg ; fry diis in little calies of a fine 
 gold color; dip some oysters into die yolk 
 of an eg;;, and fry die same way, also some 
 good forcemeat balls, and garnish the dish 
 widi them. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD SOUP, OR MOCK 
 TURTLE. See Soupe. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD. Widi a sharp knife 
 cut all die meat entire from the bone, cut 
 out the tongue, and carefully take out the 
 !>rains ; lay them all in cold water for two or 
 tliree hours. Mince very small two pounds 
 of lean veal, and one pound of beef suet, 
 with the grated crumb of a penny loaf, 
 some sweet herbs, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, 
 IK P|x-r, and salt ; mix them well together, and 
 bind it with the yolks of four eggs beaten up; 
 re.-rve a? much of the forcemeat as will 
 make twenty small balls: wash the head 
 clean, wi|ie it dry, and put the forcemeat in- 
 to the inside; close it, and tie it firmly with 
 tape; put it into a stcw|>aii with two quarts 
 of u'l.ivv, half a pint of white wine, and a 
 bunch of sweet herbs; cover it cliscly, and 
 let it stew gentry ; Ixiil the tongue, cut it in- 
 to thin .-lire.s, mince the biaius with a little 
 par.-lev aud a tablt>S|xinfu! of flour, add 
 some |x-p|ier, salt, grated lemon-peel, and 
 nutmeg; lieal two eir. 1 -- and mix with the 
 p it widi a .-poo n in small cakes 
 into a pan of boiling dripping, and fry 
 them of a light brown color. Fry the force- 
 meat kills, and drain them, w ith the cakes, 
 upon the kick of a sieve before the fire ; 
 when iln- head has stewed till it be suffic- 
 iently tender, put it into a dish and takeoff 
 the U|)e, strain the uravy, and thicken it 
 with a table-spoonful of flour of rice, and a 
 littk bit of butter; if not well sra-sonen 1 , add 
 more salt and pepper, put in the tongue, 
 make it all hot, and pour it over die head, 
 (larnish with die brain-cake.-, forcemeat 
 kills, and cut lemon. 
 
 CALF'S I1DAI), RO \STKH. Wash 
 and clean it well, parboil it, take out 
 the bone*, brains, and tongue ; make force-
 
 CALF 
 
 CALF 
 
 meat sufficient for the head, and some 
 balls with bread crumbs, minced suet, pars- 
 ley, grated ham, and a little pounded veal, 
 or cold fowl ; season with pepper, salt, grated 
 nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind it with an 
 egg, beaten up, fill the head with it, which 
 must then be sewed up, or fastened with 
 skewers and tied. While roasting, baste it 
 well with butter; beat up the brains with a 
 little cream, the yolk of an egg, some minc- 
 ed parsley,- a little pepper and salt; blanch 
 the tongue, cut it into slices, and fry it 
 with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thin 
 slices of bacon. Serve the head with white 
 or brown thickened gravy, and place the 
 tongue, forcemeat balls, and brains round it. 
 Garnish with cut lemon. It will require 
 one hour and a half to roast. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, PLAIN. Clean a 
 calPs head nicely, and cut out the bone of 
 the lower jaw, and of the nose, taking out 
 the pose bone as close to the eyes as possi- 
 ble; wash the head well in warm water, 
 and let it blanch in some clean water. Pre- 
 pare a blanc, or sauce, as follows: One 
 pound of beef suet, and one pound of fat 
 bacon, cut small, half a pound of butter, a 
 bunch of parsley, a little thyme, two or 
 three bay leaves, one or two onions, and the 
 juice of a lemon ; season with salt, pepper, 
 mace, cloves, and allspice; boil all this an 
 hour in six pints of water, then tie up the 
 head in a cloth, boil it in the sauce about 
 three hours, and drain it; take out the 
 tongue, skin and replace it; serve quite 
 hot, with the following sauce minced shal- 
 lots, parsley, the brains minced, some vine- 
 gar, salt, and pepper. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, SOUSED. Scald 
 and boue a calf's head, and soak it for sev- 
 en or eight hours, changing the water twice ; 
 dry it well. Season with salt and bruised 
 garlic; roll it up, bind it very tight, and 
 boil it in white wine, salt and water ; when 
 done, put it, with the liquor, in a pan, and 
 keep it for use. Serve up either whole, or 
 in slices, with oil, vinegar, and pepper. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, BIGAREE. Clean 
 and blanr-h a calf's head, boil it till the 
 bones will come out easily, then bone and 
 press it between two dishes, so as to give it 
 an oblong form ; beat with the yolks of four 
 egsp a little melted butter, pepper, and salt. 
 Divide the head when cold, and brush it all 
 over with the Iwaten eggs, and strew over it 
 grated bread ; repeat this twice. With the 
 grated bread, which is put over one half, a 
 good quantity of finely-minced parsley slnmM 
 be mixed; place the head upon a dish, and 
 bake it of a nice brown color. Serve it 
 with a sauce of parsley and butter, and 
 
 with one of good gravy, mixed with the 
 brains which have been previously boiled, 
 and chopped, and seasoned with a little 
 Cayenne and salt. 
 
 CALF'S HEART, ROASTED. Fill 
 the heart with the following forcemeat: a 
 quarter of a pound of lieef suet, chopped 
 
 . , 
 
 paper on the stuffing to keep it in its place. 
 Put the heart into a Dutch oven, l>cfi>re a 
 clear fire, and turn it frequently, till thor- 
 oughly roasted all round. (iaruish with 
 slices of lemon, and pour melted butter over 
 
 
 I CALF LIVER, BROILED. Slice it, 
 season with pepper and salt, and broil nice- 
 ly: rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve 
 hot and hot. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, LARDED AND 
 ROASTED. Lard a fine calf's liver the 
 same as a fricandeau, and let it lie for 
 twenty-four hours in vinegar, with a sliced 
 onion, some parsley, a little thyme, a bay 
 leaf, some salt and pepper. Roust, and 
 baste it well with butter, then glaze it with 
 a light glaze, and serve it with a poivrade, 
 or any other sauce. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (1) 
 
 \Vasli and wipe it; then cut a long hole in it, 
 and stuff it with cmml>s of bread, chopped 
 anchovy, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, 
 pepper, a bit of butter, and an r^; sew 
 the liver up; lard it, wrap it in a veal caul, 
 and roast it. Serve with good brown gra- 
 vy and currant jellv. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (2) 
 Lard a calf's liver with streaky bacon; 
 roast and baste it frequently with its own 
 gravy. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (3). 
 Lard a fine calf's liver, and pickle it in 
 vinegar, with an onion, cut into slices, pars- 
 ley, salt, pepper, thyme, and a bay leaf. 
 When it lias been snaked fir twenty-four 
 hours, fasten it on a spit, roast and baste it 
 frequently. Glaze it with a light glaze, as 
 it is naturally of a black color. Serve un- 
 der it a brown poivrade. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, SCOLLOPS. Par- 
 boil and cut into slices a vei v nice calf's 
 liver, and shape them into hearts. Stew 
 some fine herbs, parsley, .-ballots, and mush- 
 rooms; then add the calf's liver, and let it 
 stew over a slow lire; when done on one 
 side, turn and season it with pepper and
 
 CAP 
 
 43 
 
 CAP 
 
 salt; take out the liver, dredge in ;i little 
 flour over the herbs, and add some more 
 gravy; let this boil fiir ten minutes, then 
 neat the liver in the sauce before serving it. 
 This may Ix 1 eaten at breakfast. 
 
 CALF'S PLUCK. Wash it very clean, 
 and, if liked, stuff the heart with a force- 
 meat, made of crumbs of bread, butter, and 
 parsley, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg. Fasten it firmly with the 
 Iher and lights, tying them to the skewers 
 while roasting; baste it well with butter, 
 ami truth it the same way in which vc.il is 
 done, and serve it with melted butter, mix- 
 ed with a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, or 
 vinegar poured over it. 
 
 CAPER SAUCE. See Sauce. 
 
 CAPILLAIRE. Take fourteen pounds 
 of sugar, thnr (xumds of coarse .-nu.ir. six 
 eggs beat in with the shells, three quarts of 
 '; boil it up twice; skim it well, then 
 add to it a qnailer of a pint of orau^e-liuw- 
 er water; strain it through a jellv-bag, and 
 put it into Inittles; when cold, mix a 
 spoonful or iwr. of this sirup, as it is liked 
 for sweetness in a draught of warm or cold 
 wat'T. 
 
 r.U'II.OTADE ITALIAN. Cut up 
 a cold roast fowl ; then take a good slice 
 of butter, and some shred mushrooms and 
 potherbs; fry these till they are about to 
 turn brown, with a tea-spoonful of flour; 
 then add to them a large glass of white 
 wine. I/el the whole simmer together for a 
 quarter of an hour; next put in the pieces 
 of fowl, and heat them up for a fe.w minutes. 
 <iarnish voiir di.-h with tried .-lices . if bread ; 
 ami JMt beftn you ser\e, pour into the 
 saucepan two table-spoonfuls of oil, takins; 
 care that il docs not boil, and stir it up weU 
 with the sauce. 
 
 CM'ONS OR FOWLS, Must be kill- 
 ed a coaple of days in moderate, and more 
 in col. I wiMlh'T, before they are dressed, or 
 tli v will eat tonsil: a good criterion of the 
 ripeness of p-uiltry f"r the spit, is the ease 
 with which you can then pull out the feathers ; 
 when a fowl is plucked, leave a few to help 
 you to ascertain this. They are managed 
 exact l\ in tin- same manner, ami sent up 
 with tin- same Alices as a turkey, niiK they 
 require proportionabU 1. -- time at the fire. 
 A full-growl live-toed fowl, alniut an hour 
 and a quarter. A noderate-Maod one, an 
 hour A chicken, from thirty to foru min- 
 Here, also, |rk sausages I'ried are 
 in general a favorite accoiii] aniiuctit, or 
 turkey sliiltin^: sir forcemeats; put in plen- 
 ty of it, so as to plump out the lowl, which 
 
 mu>t be tied closely (t*>th at the neck and 
 rump), to keep in the stuffing. Some cooks 
 put the li\er of ill;- fowl into this forcemeat, 
 and others mince it and (Kiunil it, and nib it 
 up with flour and melted butter. When 
 the bird is stuffed and trussed, score the 
 gizzard nicely, dip it into melted butter, let 
 il drain, and then season it with < 
 and salt; put it under one pinion, and the 
 liver under the other; to prevent their get- 
 ting hardened or scorched, cover them with 
 double paper twittered. Take care that 
 your roasted poultry l>e well browned ; it is 
 as indispensable that roasted poultry should 
 have a rich brown complexion, ai boiled 
 poultry should have a delicate white one. 
 
 CAPON, TO CHOOSE. If it is young, 
 his spurs arc short and his legs smooth ; if 
 a true capon, a fat vein on the side of his 
 breast, the comb pale, and a thick Ix-lly and 
 rump; if fresh, he will have a close hard 
 vent ; if stale, a loose open vent. 
 
 CAPON, THE FRENCH WAY. Take 
 a quart of white wine, season the capon 
 with salt, cloves, and whole pepper, a few 
 shallots ; and then put the capon in an earth- 
 en pan ; you must take care it has not room 
 to shake ; it must be covered close, and done 
 over a slow charcoal fire. 
 
 CAPON PASTY. Roast a capon, let 
 it be cold, take the flesh from the bones and 
 slice it, but keep the thighs and pinions 
 whole. Add to the flesh of the capon, four 
 sweetbreads and half a pint of oysters, sea- 
 son them with salt, cloves, nutmeg, and 
 mace, sweet marjoram, pennyroyal, and 
 thyme, minced ; lay a sheet of paper or 
 paste in \our pasty-pan, and lay the thighs 
 and pinions on the Ixittom, and strew them 
 over with sliced onions, then put in the 
 flesh of the capon, the sweetbreads, and die 
 oysters, cut in halves ; over these strew a 
 handful of chestnuts, boiled and blanclied, 
 then put butter over them, close up your pan 
 and bake it ; when done, add gravy, good 
 stock, draw n butter, anchovies, and" grated 
 nninie,'; '.furnish with slices of lemon, and 
 serve. Turkey may be done in the same 
 manner. 
 
 CAPONS A LA TURQUE. I'ick, 
 
 and clean very nicely, two tine cajHiiis : wash 
 the inside |x-rfectlv clean with warm water, 
 and let them soak in warm water for a 
 quarter of an hour; dry them well, and put 
 into them f ,,\ti>- rice which has tx-en lioiled 
 till soft ill some rich well-seasoned stock, 
 tru.-s and cover them with layers of ICOD, 
 wrap them in ]M).<T. a"d roa-t them for an 
 hour bv a hanging-jack; serve them, put- 
 ting all round the di.-h a part of the rice
 
 CAR 
 
 44 
 
 CAR 
 
 which was prepared for the stuffing, and 
 pour over the fowls a veloute sauce. One 
 fine large fowl may be dressed in this 
 manner. 
 
 CAPSICUMS, TO PICKLE. Gather 
 the pods, witli the stalks on, before they turn 
 red; cut a slit down the side with a pen- 
 knife, and take out all the seeds, but as lit- 
 tle of the meat as possible; lay them in a 
 strong brine for three days, changing it eve- 
 ry day ; then take them out, lay them on a 
 cloth, and lay another over them till they 
 are quite dry ; boil vinegar enough to cover 
 them, put in some mace and nutmeg beat 
 small; put the pods into a glass>or jar, and 
 when the liquor is cold, pour it over, then 
 tie a bladder and leather over them. 
 
 CARDOONS, WITH CHEESE. String 
 and cut them an inch long, put them into a 
 saucepan with red wine, seasoned with pep- 
 per and salt, stew them till they are tender, 
 put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and 
 when of a proper thickness pour them into 
 a dish, squeeze the juice of an orange into 
 the sauce, and scrajx; over them some Par- 
 mesan or Cheshire cheese, and then brown 
 them with a cheese-iron, but not of too high 
 a color. 
 
 CARDOONS, TO DRESS. Cut them 
 in pieces six inches lung, and put them on a 
 string ; boil till tender, have ready a piece 
 of butter in a pan, (lour and fry them. They 
 may also be tied in bundles, and served as 
 asparagus boiled on a toast, and pour but- 
 ter over. 
 
 CARDOONS, SPANISH. Cut them 
 into lengdis of three inches, be careful not 
 to use those which are hollow and green; 
 boil tlic-in for half an hour, then put them 
 into lukewarm writer to cleanse them from 
 their slime; then dress them in some stock, 
 with a spoo.iful of flour, some salt, onions, 
 roots, a bunrh of sueet herbs, a little ver- 
 juice, and a little butter; when done, put 
 them into a cullis with sonic stock; cook 
 them for an hour in this sauce, and serve. 
 
 CARROTS. Let them be well washed 
 and brushed, not scraped. An hour is 
 enough for young spring carrots ; grown car- 
 rots must be cut in half, and will take from 
 an hour and a hall" to two hours and a half. 
 When done, rub off the peels with a clean 
 coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, 
 .-according to their size. The best way to 
 try if they are done enough, is to pierce them 
 with a fork. Many |x?t>ple are fond of cold 
 carrot with cold beef; ask if you shall cook 
 enough for some to Ix; left to send up v\ ith 
 the cold meat. 
 
 CARAMEL, OR BOILED SUGAR. 
 
 Break into a small copper or brass pan, one 
 pound of refined sugar, put in a gill of 
 spring water ; set if on a fire, and when 
 it boils, skim it quite clean, and let it boil 
 quick, till it comes to the degree called 
 Crack, which may be known by dipping a 
 teaspoon or skew er into the sugar, and let 
 it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water; 
 and if it remains hard, it has attained that 
 decree; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, 
 and let it remain one minute longer on the 
 fire, then set the pan into anotlier of cold 
 water: have ready moulds of any shape, 
 
 rub them over with sweet oil, dip a spoon 
 or (I irk into the sugar, and throw it over the 
 mould in line threads, till it is quite covered: 
 
 nfRke a small handle of caramel, or stick 
 on two or three small gum paste rings, by 
 way of ornament, and place it over small 
 
 of any description. 
 
 CARP, BOILED. Scale and clean a 
 brace of carp, reserving the liver and roe; 
 take half a pint of vinegar, or a quart of 
 sharp cider, add as much water as will cov- 
 er the fish. a piece of horse-radish, an onion 
 cut int'i slices, a little salt, and a faggot of 
 sweet herbs; boil the fish in this liquor, and 
 make a sauce as follows: strain some of 
 the liquor the fish has been boiled in, and 
 put to it the liver minced, a pint of Port 
 wine, two anchovies, two or three heads of 
 shallots chop|>ed, some salt and black pep- 
 per, a little Cayenne, a table-spoonful of soy; 
 boil and strain it, thicken it with flour and 
 butter, pour it over the carp hot, garnish 
 with the roe fried, cut lemon and parsley. 
 
 CARP, STEWED. Scale and clean 
 a brace of carp, reserving the liver and 
 roe; pour over the fish in a deep pan a pint 
 of vinegar, which may IK- elder vinegar, if 
 the flavor is preferred, with a little mace, 
 three cloves, some salt and Jamaica pepper, 
 two onions sliced, a faggot of parsley, basil, 
 thyme, and marjoram: let them soak an 
 hour, then put them in a stewpan with the 
 vinegar, and otln-r things, the liver chopped, 
 a pint of .Madeira, and three pints of veal 
 stock ; steu them an hour or two accord- 
 ing to their siae; takeout the fish and put 
 them over a |>an of hot water to keep warm 
 while the following sauce is made: Strain 
 the liquor, and add the yolks of three eggs 
 beaten, half a pint of cream, a large spoon- 
 ful of flour, and a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, stir it constantly, and just before 
 putting it over the carp, squeeze in the 
 juice of a lemon, lioil or fry the roe. 
 Plain boiled carp may be served with this 
 sauce, and is dished in a napkin. 
 
 CARP, FRIED. Clean and scale a 

 
 CAU 
 
 45 
 
 CHA 
 
 carp; split it up the back; flatten the back- 
 bone, sprinkle your fwh with flour, then 
 sprinkle tlie roes which have been put aside, 
 [Hit the whole into a frying-pan made very 
 liot, fry to a rich color, and serve it with 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 CARROT FRITTERS. Beat two or 
 three boiled carrots to a pulp with a spoon ; 
 add to them six eggs and a handful of flour; 
 moisten them with either cream, milk, or 
 white wine, and sweeten them. Beat all 
 together well, and fry in boiling lard. When 
 of a good color, take them off and squeeze 
 on them the juice of a Seville orange, and 
 strew over fine sugar. 
 
 CARROT PUDDING. See Pudding. 
 
 CASSILE. Mix two table-spoonfuls of 
 potato-flour with two or tliree of cream or 
 good milk; Ixoil for a few minutes with a 
 ream or milk, the peel of a lemon 
 and a bit of cinnamon ; stir it with^he flour 
 UB] sweeten, and stir it again over 
 the fire for three or four minutes; pour it in- 
 to a mould ; turn it out when cold. 
 
 CAULIFLOWF.R. ("boose those that 
 are close and white, and of the middle size; 
 trim off theoutside leaves; cut die stalk off 
 flat at tin: bottom; let them lie in salt and 
 water an liSar before you boil them. Put 
 them into (Milling water with a handful of 
 salt in it; skim it well, and let it lx>il slow- 
 ly till done, which a small one will l>e in fif- 
 livi. a lai-,-e one in about twenty minutes ; 
 
 CAULIFLOWER SALAD. When 
 you have prepared and boiled the cauli- 
 flowers, drain and let them cool ; cut diem 
 in pieces; season diem with salt, pepper, 
 oil and vinegar, and cat diem as any other 
 salad. 
 
 CAUDLE. (1) Boil up half a pint of 
 fine gruel, with a bit of butter the size of a 
 large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, 
 die same of white wine, one of capillaire, a 
 piece of lemon-peel, and nutmeg. 
 
 CAUDLE. (2) Make a fine smooth 
 
 gruel of half-grits; when boiled, strain it, 
 stir it at times till cold. When wanted for 
 use, add sugar, wine, and lemon-peel, with 
 some nutmeg. According to taste, yon may 
 add, if you please, besides die wine, a spoon- 
 ful of brandy, or lemon-juice. 
 
 CAUDLE, BROWN. Boil the gruel 
 
 I die same as for white caudle, with six spoon- 
 
 ! fills of oatmeal, and strain jic then add a 
 
 i quart of good ale, not bitterylioil it, then 
 
 ! sweeten it according to your taste, and add 
 
 half a pint of white wine. When you do 
 
 not put in die white wine, let it lie half ale. 
 
 CAUDLE, COLD. Boil a quart of 
 spring water; when cold, add die yolk of 
 an egg, die juice of a small lemon, six sjxxm- 
 fuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and 
 one ounce of sirup of lemons. 
 
 CECILS. Mix over the fire for a few 
 minutes die following ingredients: minced 
 
 , aou weny mnues; i lnues e oowng ngreens: mnce 
 
 put it is enough, a min- meat of whatever kind yon please, bread 
 
 ute or two longer boiling will .-|x,il it. 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS OR BROCCOLI, 
 riCKI.KI). Chooee those that are hard, 
 yet sufficiently ripe, cut away the leaves and 
 stalks. Set on a stew|xin half full of water, 
 salted in proportion of a quarter of a pound 
 of salt to a quart of water; throw in the 
 cauliflower, and let it heat gradually ; wlien 
 it Iniils take it up with a spoon fiill of holes, 
 and .pre:id them on a cloth to dry lx,-fore 
 the fire, t'.r twenty-four hours at least; when 
 quite dry, put them, piece by piece, into 
 i i;la-s tie-o\eis, and cover them with 
 the pickle we have directed for beet roots, 
 or make a pickle by infusing three ounces 
 of the curry |x > der for three days in a quart 
 of vinegar by the side of the fire. Nastur- 
 tiums are excellent prepared as above. 
 
 CutZTc 
 
 crumbs, plenty of onion, lemon-peel, mit- 
 iii- -LT. parsley chopped, j>cpper, salt, a little 
 butter, and SMIK; anchovies. When nearly 
 cojd, roll them up into balls alxnit the size 
 of an e^; moisten tliem with 
 bread crumbs o\er ;lie.n, and fry them of a 
 good clear color: serve tliem with made 
 gravy. 
 
 CELERY, TO STEW. Wash and 
 clean some heads of eelerv, cut them into 
 pieces of two or three indies long, boil 
 them in vtl sto>-k*tiM tender. To half a 
 pint of cream add the well-beaten yol 
 two eggs, a bit of lemon-peel, grated nut- 
 meg, and salt, also a bit of butter; make it 
 hot, stirring rt <; instantly; strain it upon the 
 celery ; heat it thoroughly, but do not let it 
 boil. 
 
 CAII. I! LOWERS, PICKLED. Cut7\~ CHARLOTTE. (1) Cut a sufficient 
 the canlitl .., -rs in pieces, and throw them number of thin slices of white bread t.. 
 into boiling water tor a quarter of an hour; the U.itom and line tJie .sides of a haking- 
 then lay them ..a cloth- to drain. I'm tliem dish, linrt mining it thickly with butter, 
 in a jar with doves and salt, and cover Put thin sli-., s of apple* into the dish in 
 them with tlie beat vinegar. la\em, till the dish is full, strewing sugar
 
 46 
 
 CHE 
 
 and bits of butter between. In the mean- 
 time, soak as many thin slices of bread as 
 will cover the whole,- in warm milk; over 
 which place a plate, and a weight, to keep 
 the bread close upon the apples ; let it bake 
 slowly for three hours. For a middling- 
 sized dish, you should use half a |xmnd of 
 butter for the whole. 
 
 CHARLOTTE. (2) This second course 
 may be made of any kind of fruit you please, 
 and is eaten hot. If apples are used, pare, 
 core, and cut about twenty of them into 
 small pieces, and put them into a stewpan 
 with some water, a good piece of fresh but- 
 ter, powder-sugar, pounded cinnamon, and 
 grated lemon-peel, and stew till the water is 
 dried up; then set diem to cool in an earth- 
 en ware vessel. Cut some very thin slices 
 of crumb of bread, dip them in melted fresh 
 butter, and lay them nes^ly all over the bot- 
 tom and round the sides of the stewpan ; 
 then pour in the apples, leavjng a "hole in- 
 die middle,4ui which ..put apricot marma- 
 lade. Coveipbi<? whole witbjferead, sliced 
 thin, and buttered 'as above."" Place it in a 
 hot oven, bake it an houi* and turn it out. 
 
 CHARLOTTE DBS POMMES. Pare, 
 core, and mince fourteen or fifteen French 
 rennet apples; put diem into a frying-pan, 
 with some pounded loaf sugar, a little pound- 
 ed cinnamon, grated lemon-peel, and two 
 ounces and a half of fresh butter ; fry them 
 a quarter of an hour over a quick fire, stir- 
 ring diem constandy. Butter a shape of 
 die size the charlotte is intended to be ; cut 
 strips of bread about die widdi of two fin- 
 gers, and long enough to reach from die 
 bottom to die rim of die shape, so that die 
 whole be lined widi bread ; dip each bit in- 
 to melted butter, and dien put a layer of 
 die fried apples, and one of apricot jam or 
 marmalade, and then one of bread dipped 
 into butter ; begin and finish with it. Bake 
 it in an oven for nearly an hour ; turn it out 
 to serve it. It may be boiled, and served 
 with a sweet sauce. 
 
 CHEESE, BOILED. Grate a quarter 
 of a pound of good cheese, put it into a 
 sauce pan, widi a bit of butter the size of a 
 nutmeg, and half a tea-cupful of milk, stir it 
 over the fire till it boil, and then add a well- 
 U-aten egg; mix it all together, put it into 
 a small dish, and brown it before die fire. 
 
 CHEESE, CAKE OF. Take about the 
 fourth part of a close, fat Brie cheese, pound 
 and rub it through a sieve ; mix widi it a 
 pint and a half of flour; lay it on the board, 
 make a hole in die middle, into which put 
 three quarters of a pound of butter, and work 
 it in well ; add to it a litde Gruyere cheese 
 
 grated, and six eggs. Knead these all to- 
 gether well ; mould it up, and let it stand 
 for half an hour ; then roll it out, and make 
 it into a cake of about three inches; mark 
 it widi a knife on one side in chequers, and 
 on die odier in rays ; dcr~ez, and bake it in 
 a moderate oven. 
 
 CHEESE CREAM. Warm three hall 
 pints of cream with one half pint of milk, 
 or according to die same proportion, and 
 put a little rennet to it ; keep it covered in 
 a warm place till it is curdled; have a pro- 
 per mould with holes, either of China or any 
 other; put the curds into it to drain, about 
 an hour, or less : serve widi a good plain 
 cream, and pounded sugar over it. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. (1) Put two quarts 
 of new milk into a stowpan, set it near the 
 fire, and stir in two table-spoonfuls of ren- 
 net: let it stand till it is set (this will take 
 alxwt an hour) ; break it well widi your 
 hand, ajd let it'remain half an hour longer; 
 then poVyftjff thje whey^and put die curd into 
 a lokyider-to, drain ; '.vjjLien quite dry, put it 
 in a mortar', aml^wmjuBk quite, .smooth; 
 then add four oiinceS>fiKar,jwgHided and 
 sifted, and three ounWsiif fr<*h butter; oil 
 it first by putting it in ai 'fittle pptting-pot, 
 and setting it near the fire; stir it all well 
 together: beat the yolks of four eiri;> in a 
 basin, with a little nutmeg grated, Icnioii- 
 peel, and a glass of brandy ; add this to the 
 curd, with two ounces of currants, washed 
 and picked ; stir it all well togedier ; have 
 your tins ready lined with puft' paste about 
 a quarter of an inch thick, notch diem all 
 round die edge, and fill each with die curd. 
 Bake them twenty minutes. When you 
 have company, and want a variety, you can 
 make a mould of curd and cream, by put- 
 ting die curd in a mould full of holes, instead 
 of the colander: let it stand for six hours, 
 dien turn it out very carefully on a dish, and 
 pour over it half a pint of good cream sweet- 
 ened with loaf sugar, and a little nutmeg. 
 What there is left, if set in a cool place, 
 will make excellent cheesecakes die next 
 day. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. (2) Put a spoonful 
 of rennet into a quart of milk; when turned, 
 drain the curd through a coarse sieve, gent- 
 ly break the curd, and rub in a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, nutmeg, and two Naples biscuits 
 grated, the yolks of four eggs, and die white 
 of one, half an ounce of almonds, half bitter 
 and half sweet, well beaten in a mortar, 
 widi two spoonfuls of rose water, four ounces 
 of currants; put in the curd, and mix all 
 togedaer. One quart of milk, and tliree 
 dessert spoonfuls of rice-flour, six eggs, leave
 
 CHE 
 
 47 
 
 CHE 
 
 out three of the whites, and currants to 
 your taste. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. (3) Beat eight 
 
 eggs well, while ;i quart of milk is on tin- 
 fire, ami uln-ii it luils, [Hit in the eggs, and 
 Mir tin-in till they come to a curd ; men pour 
 it nut, and when it is cold, put in a little 
 salt, two spoonfuls of rose water, and three- 
 quarters of a pound of currants well washed ; 
 put it into pull panic, and bake it. If vou 
 use tin patties lo bake in, butter them, or 
 you will not be able to take them out; but 
 if you bake them in glass or china, only an 
 upper crust will be necessary, as you will 
 not want to take them out when you send 
 them to table. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. (*} Take one pound 
 of loaf sugar jxiundcd, six yolks, and four 
 whites of eggs beaten, the juice of three fine 
 lemon-, the united rind of two, and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of fresh butter; put these in- 
 gredients into a saucepan, and stir tin- mix- 
 ture gently over a i-low fire till it be of the 
 Consistence of honey; pour it into small 
 in-, .mil when cold [Mil pa|>er dipfx-d in 
 brandy over them. It will keep good for a 
 year. 
 
 CHEESE, POUNDED. Cut a pound 
 
 of good mellow cheese into thin bits; add 
 to it two, and if the cheese is dry, three 
 ounces of fresh butter; (xmnd, and rub them 
 well together in a mortar till it is quite 
 smooth. When cheese is dry, and for those 
 whom digestion is feeble, this is the best 
 way of eating it; and spread on bread, it 
 makes an excellent luncheon or siipjier. 
 Tin- pir/uance of this is sometime- inm-as- 
 cd by |>!iiidii>!( with it curry powder, ground 
 spire, black |x-p|x-r, ('avenue, and a little 
 made mustard; and some moisten it with a 
 glass of Sherry. If pressed down hard in 
 a jar, and covered with clarified butter, 
 it will keep for several days in cool weath- 
 
 < 1IKESE, ROASTED. Grate three 
 
 of fat clieese, mix it with the 
 
 volks of two ei^s, four ounces of grated 
 
 oread, and three ounces of butter ; beat the 
 
 w h-i!e well in a mortar, with a dessert gpoon- 
 fil of mustard, and a little salt ami pepper. 
 Toast some bread, cut it into proper pieces ; 
 lav the paste, as above, thick upon them, 
 put them into a Dutch oven covered with a 
 dish, till hot through, n-ni' \e the di.-h, and 
 let tin- cheese brown a little. Se. 
 ible. 
 
 Clll. I AKH. M.-lt three- 
 
 quarters of an ounce of butler in a tea-cup- 
 am, mix with it a quarter of a 
 
 pound of good clieese finely grated, beat it 
 well together ; put a slice of toasted bread 
 into a dish, and pour the mixture over it, 
 and brown it with a salamander. 
 
 CHEESE TOASTED, OR RABBIT. 
 
 Cut a slice of bread, toast it, and soak it 
 in red wine, put it before the fire; cut some 
 cheese in very thin slices, and nib some but- 
 ter over tin- 1 >! torn of a plate, lay the cheese 
 upon it, and pour in two or three spoonfuls 
 of white wine, and a little mustard; cover 
 it with another plate, and set it on a chafing- 
 dish ot "coals two or three minutes, then stir 
 it till it is well mixed ; when it is mixed 
 enough, lay it upon die bread, and brown it 
 with a salamander. 
 
 CHEESE TOASTED. Cut a slice of 
 bread alx >nt half an inch thick ; pare off die 
 crust, and toast it very slightly on one side 
 so as just to brown it, without making it 
 hard or burning it. Cut a slice of good 
 fat mellow cheese, a quarter of an inch 
 thick, not so big as the bread by half an 
 inch -in each aide: pare off the rind, cut out 
 all the species and rotten parts, and lay it 
 on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster; 
 carefully \\atch it tliat it does not bum, and 
 stir it \\ith a spoon to prevent a pellicle 
 lorming on the surface. Have ready good 
 mustard, pepper and salt. If you observe 
 the directions here given, the cheese will 
 eat mellow, and will be uniformly done, 
 and the bread crisp and soft, and will well 
 deserve its ancient appellation of a " rare 
 bit." This Receipt, as well as every other 
 worth extracting, is from the Cook's Oracle. 
 The Editor goes on to say. We have noth- 
 ing to add lo the directions given for toa-t- 
 ini; the chi-esc iii tlie last receipt, except that 
 in sending it up, it will save much time in 
 |xirt ioniii^ jt out at table, if you have half a 
 dozen small silver or tin pan* to fit into the 
 clieese-toaster, and do the clieese in these: 
 each person may then be helped to a sepa- 
 rate pun, and it will keep the clieese much 
 liolter than the usual way of eating it on a 
 cold plate. Obs. Ceremony seldom tri- 
 umphs more completely o\er comfort than in 
 the serving out of this dish; which, to be 
 presented to the palate in perfection, it is 
 imperainely incli-|-nsal)le tli.it it be intro- 
 duced to the mouth as soon as it appears on 
 
 the t.dile. 
 
 CHERRY I'.KAMIV. (1) Pick and 
 bruise right pounds ofblack maroon*, and the 
 Balm-quantity of small black clierries ; let them 
 stand lor t\\o months in a cask \\ith six 
 gallons of brandy, two pounds of crushed 
 sugar, and a quart of sirk well ctirred to- 
 At ih- end <f that time it may b> 
 drawn off and lttied.
 
 CHI 
 
 48 
 
 CHI 
 
 CHERRY BRANDY. (2) Choose 
 fine sound morella cherries, and having 
 taken off the stalks, place them in layers 
 in glass jars ; strew powder-sugar between 
 each layer, and cover them with brandy. 
 As soon as the cherries have imbibed the 
 brandy, pour in more, so as to keep them 
 constantly covered. 
 
 CHERRIES, DRIED. Take large 
 cherries, not too ripe ; pick off the stalks, 
 and take out the stones with a quill cut 
 nearly as for a pen: to three pounds of which 
 take three pounds or pints of clarified sugar ; 
 boil it to the degree of blown ; put in the 
 cherries, give them a boil, and set them by 
 in an earthen pan till the next day; then 
 strain the sirup, add more sugar, and boil 
 it of a good consistence; put the cherries in, 
 and boil them five minutes, and set them by 
 another day: repeat the boiling two more 
 days, and when wanted, drain them some- 
 time, and lay them on wire sieves to diy in 
 a stove, or nearly cold oven. 
 
 CHERRY PUDDING. See Puddings. 
 
 CHERVIL, Is principally used in soups 
 and stuffing, and is generally preserved with 
 other herbs as follow s : take of sorrel, chervil, 
 beet, purslain, and cucumbers, if in season, 
 quantities according to your liking; wash 
 them well; mince and press them in your 
 hand, to squeeze out all the water. Put 
 them into a kettle with water, some butter 
 and salt, and boil them until the water is 
 entirely consumed. Then take them out, 
 and when cold, put them into pots; cover 
 them with warmed butter. When you 
 want to use these herbs, put them into some 
 stock that has very little salt in it. If tliey 
 are required for a farce or garnish, boil them 
 a minute or two in some butter; thicken 
 with the yolks of eggs and milk; when so 
 prepared, they may be served under hard 
 eggs or broiled fish. For sauce, it must be 
 chopped small, boiled in salt and water, and 
 mixed with melted butter. 
 
 CHESTNUTS, Should be placed on the 
 fire in a pan with holes to roast ; first slitting 
 or cutting a notch in the skins, to pi-event 
 their flying off. When done, serve them in 
 dessert on a napkin, as hot as possible. 
 Some boil the chestnuts instead of roasting 
 them, as the skins are then cleaner, but the 
 nuts not quite so mealy; the better way 
 is to boil them in plenty of water, and 
 when nearly done, take them out and roast 
 them. 
 
 CHICKENS. Having picked the chick- 
 ens, singe them well to remove all the hairs, 
 '&c., which may remain on the skin; then 
 
 bruise the bone close to the foot, and draw 
 the strings from the thigh. Take out the 
 crop by a slit cut in the back of the neck; 
 then cut off the neck, leaving skin enough Jo 
 turn over the back. Cut off the vent, and 
 take out the inside, l>eing careful not to break 
 the gall ; break the hack-bone and the two 
 bones leading to the pinions ; wi)>e the chick- 
 en with a cloth, and put in a little pepper 
 and salt. If the chicken is to l)e trussed lor 
 roasting, proceed as follows: Turn the legs 
 close down to the apron and run a skewer 
 through ; run another skewer in the joint of 
 one wing through the liody to (he other wing ; 
 and Inning washed the liver and <ri/,/.ard, 
 place them in the pinions. For boiling, the 
 under part of the thigh must he cut, and the 
 legs placed under the apron, only letting die 
 ends be seen. Be sure to preserve the breast 
 very full. 
 
 CHICKEN BROTH. See Broth. 
 
 CHICKENS, BROILED OR GRILL- 
 ED. Pick and singe them nicely, wash 
 them clean, and dry them in a cloth ; cut them 
 down the hack, truss the legs and wings, as 
 for boiling; flatten them, and put them upon 
 a cold gridiron; when they become a little 
 dry, put them upon a plate, baste them with 
 butter, and strew a little salt and pepper 
 over the inside, which part is laid first upon 
 the gridiron; baste them frequently, and let 
 them broil slowly for alxnit half an hour. 
 Serve them very hot, with melted butter 
 poured over them, or plenty of stewed mush- 
 rooms. The livers and gizzards may be 
 broiled with them, fastened into the wings, 
 or well seasoned, broiled, and served with 
 the chickens. 
 
 CHICKEN BAKED IN RICE. Cut 
 
 a chicken into joints as for a fricassee, sea- 
 son it well with pepper god salt, lay it into a 
 pudding dish lined with slices of ham or ba- 
 con, add a pint of veal gravy, and an onion 
 finely minced ; fill up the dish with boiled 
 rice well pressed and piled as high as the 
 dish will hold, cover it with a |>oste of flour 
 and w ater ; bake it one hour, and before serv- 
 ing lake off the paste. 
 
 CHICKENS BOILED. (1) Put the 
 
 chickens into a saucepan by themselves, and 
 boil a small one for fifteen, a larger one 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 CHICKENS BOILED. (2) When they 
 are drawn and trussed, lay the chickens in 
 skim milk for alxiut two hours ; then put 
 them into cold water, cover them close, and 
 set them over a slow fire, and skim them 
 well. As soon as they have boiled slowly, 
 take them from the fire, and let them remain
 
 CHI 
 
 49 
 
 CHI 
 
 in the water close covered for half ;wi hour ; 
 then drain and serve with white sauce. 
 
 CHICKEN, BROILED. Split a couple 
 of chic-kens, take out the inside- and back- 
 bones, beat them with a wooden s; 
 them in clarified hatter, and broil them, the 
 in-idc next the lire (which .-hould be of 
 charcoal), and only turn them to color them. 
 Whr'i done, |xinr on tliem a sauce made as 
 folio v\s : Boil some stewed mushrooms with 
 k :ui.l plain sauce, an e<|iial quanti- 
 t\ of each, until of a pro|>er eoOMtCBDBJ 
 flavor it with lemon-juice and Cayenne jiep- 
 per. 
 
 CHICKENS CHIRINGATE. Having 
 taken oil" the feet, lx;at tile bre:ist bones of 
 your chickens flat without breaking the skin, 
 flour and fry them in butter ; when of a nice 
 brown take all the fat from tlie |xin, leaving 
 in llie chickens, over which lay a pound of 
 gra\y la-el" cut in thin slices, another piece 
 of beef also cut thin, some mace, denes, 
 pep|M-r, an onion, a carrot, and a bunch of 
 il>~: |xmr a quart of boiling water 
 t>\er the whole, co\cr it (|ilite do-e, and let 
 it stew ; in a qaart'-r of an hour take out 
 the chickens, but let the gravy continue 
 boiling, and when very rich strain it; then 
 put it auain into the pun u ith a little red 
 wine and a f-w mushrooms; tlK-n put in the 
 chic-kens, and when they are hot, disli them 
 up, anil pour the sauce over them; garnish 
 with slices of lemon and broiled ham. 
 
 nilCKKNSCRK.ME. (1) Parboil a 
 
 couple of young chic-kens, cut them in pieces, 
 and throw into warm water for half an hour; 
 then do them over the lire in a little fresh 
 butter, with salt, |>arslc-y, pepper, morels, 
 &c. sprinkle with llour, and dilute w ith a 
 glasa of boiling water; cover the stewpan 
 close, and let it stand on hot ashes until the 
 water Itts sojike-d into the chicken, then add 
 half a pint of cream and a little butter. The 
 yilks of tlint- c_'^s may be put in also, but 
 in that ca.-e, a .-mall quantity of verjuice 
 should be put in before tlie cream. 
 
 CIHCKlvXSCREME. (2) Stuff and 
 ro:ut \oiir chic-kens, and wlten you take them 
 from the r-pit, rub them with buti< 
 ili'-m with bread-crumb*, wrap them in 
 I neon. a-id bake them a short time ; 
 .- i .. with well thirkened cream-sauce. 
 
 ( IIICKKN CROQUETTES. (1) Re- 
 
 dace two :-|Xionfuls of veloute or sauce tour- 
 nee r and add to it tlie yolks of f 
 put to tins the white meat of a chicken 
 niiiic-eil \ery small, and well mixed with the 
 .ke it out, and roll it into lulls about 
 the size of a walnut ; roll them in bread- 
 5 
 
 crumbs, giving them an elongated form ; 
 tlien clip them in some well-beaten egg, 
 bread tin-in again, and fry them of a light 
 brown. 
 
 CHICKEN CROQUETTES. (2) Mix 
 
 well into some \e-ry thick bechamtlle and 
 sonic gla/e the breast of a chicken, some 
 lonuue, irutlles and mushrooms all minced 
 very small; when quite cold roll them into 
 little, balls aljout die size of a nut, and hav- 
 ing Ix-alen up three eggs throw the kills into 
 tliem. Take them out quickly and roll them 
 in bread-crumbs; dip them a second time 
 into the eggs, and cover them again with 
 bread-cruuibe ; fry them as other croquette*. 
 Lay filed parsley on a napkin in a dish, 
 place the croquettes on, and round it, and 
 
 CHICKEN CURRY. Take tlie skin 
 off, cut up a chicken, and roll each piece in 
 curry-powder and flour (mixed together a 
 s|xxinf'ul of (lour to half an ounce of curry) 
 fry two or three sliced onions in butter; 
 when of a light brown, put in die meat and 
 fry them together till the meat becomes 
 brown; then stew tliem togedier with a lit- 
 tle water for two or three hours. More 
 w ater may be added if '.oo thick. 
 
 CHICKEN CAPILOTADE. Put into 
 a >t upaii a little butter and llour; add 
 mushroom-, parsley, and shallots cut small, 
 dilute 1 1 ie-.-e with equal quantites of stock, and 
 red or white wine. When the sauce is well 
 lulled, skim it; cut a roasted fowl in pieces, 
 and put it into this sauce; stew it gently 
 for a quarter of an hour. Add some gherk ine 
 cut in thin slices. 
 
 CHICKEN, COLD FRIED. Cut the 
 
 chicken in quarters, and take off die skin, 
 nib it with an egg beaten up, and cover it 
 widi grated bread seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, grated lemon-peel, and chopped parsley, 
 fry it in butter, thicken a little brown gravy 
 with llour and butter, add a little Cayenne', 
 lemon pickle, and mushroom catchup. 
 
 CHICKENS .FRICASSEED. Prepare 
 and cut up two chickens; put them in a 
 stewpan with some butter, parsley, a bay- 
 leaf, thyme, liasil, two cloves, mushroom, 
 and a .-lice of ham ; let the.n stew ti 
 ly any sauce remains, then add a little flour, 
 warm water, salt and pepper; stew it again 
 and reduce the sauce. When nearly done 
 put in die yolks of three eggs beaten up 
 widi a little cream or milk; thicken it over 
 the fire, but do not let it boil ; a small qtran- 
 tiu of li moil-juice or vinegar may be added. 
 Place the breasts and bones of the chickens 
 on a dish, lay tlie legs and wings over them.
 
 CHI 
 
 50 
 
 CHI 
 
 and then pour the sauce over the whole ; 
 garnish with the mushrooms. Take off the 
 skins before you cut up the chickens if you 
 wish die fricassee very white. 
 
 CHICKEN FRITTERS. Make a bat- 
 ter with four eggs, some new milk, and 
 rice-flour ; to this, add a pint of cream, pow- 
 der-su;ar, candied lemon-peel cut small, 
 fresh lemon-peel grated, and the white parts 
 of a roasted chicken shred small; set all 
 those together on a stove, and stir well for 
 sometime; when done, take it off, roll out 
 the mixture, cut it into fritters, and fry 
 them ; strew sugar on a dish, lay in the 
 fritters, strew sugar over, and serve them 
 hot. 
 
 CHICKENS IN A MINUTE. Cut a 
 
 chicken in pieces, and put it in a stewpan 
 with a little butter; add to it some mush- 
 rooms, parsley, sprinkle flour over, and 
 shake them; moisten it with stock or water, 
 and white wne; when it has boiled once, 
 take it from the fire and put in the yolks of 
 one or two eggs, and a little vinegar or 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 CHICKENS AND OYSTERS. Fill 
 
 your chickens with young oysters cut small, 
 truffles, parsley, and spices, and roast them. 
 Blanch about two dozen young oysters, and 
 toss them up in some melted butter, with 
 chopped herbs and olive oil. When they 
 have been on the fire a quarter of an hour, 
 add a little white wine and half a glass of 
 good stock, thicken it over the fire for an- 
 other quarter of an hour, and when the 
 chickens are ready to serve, pour the sauce 
 on them, and garnish the dish with oysters 
 and some lemon. 
 
 CHICKEN PANADA. Boil a chicken 
 in a quart of water until nearly (lone; then 
 skin it, cut off the white meat, and pound 
 it with a little of the liquor it was boiled in 
 to a thick paste ; season it with salt, nut- 
 meg, and lemon-peel; boil it up all together 
 for a few minutes. 
 
 CHICKEN AND HAM POTTED. 
 
 Season some pieces of chicken, with mace, 
 cloves, and pepper, and bake them for about 
 three hours in a close covered pan with 
 some water ; then pound them quite small, 
 moistening either with melted butter, or the 
 liquor they were baked in. Pound also 
 some ham, and put this with the chicken in 
 alternate layers, in potting pans, press them 
 down tight, and cover them with butter. 
 
 legs, break the bones, and boil them hi a 
 little water till the strength be drawn out, 
 strain it, and when it becomes cold skim 
 and put it into a sauce pan with a little mace, 
 white pepper, and salt; add a bit of butter 
 mixed with flour, and ratlier more than a 
 quarter of a pint of cream, then put in the 
 meat, and a little mushroom powder ; before 
 serving, add the squeeze of a lemon. 
 
 CHICKEN PULLED. (2) Pick all the 
 white meat from the bones of a cold roasted 
 fowl, cut off the legs, and keep the back and 
 sidesmen in one. Score, and season tlie legs 
 and back with pepper and salt, and broil 
 them; warm up the white meat in some 
 sauce made of the txmes boiled in a little 
 water, and which lias been strained and 
 thickened with a piece of butter, mixed with 
 flour, a little milk, and the yolk of an egg 
 beaten up and seasoned with white pepper 
 and salt ; serve the broiled back upon the 
 mince, and the legs at each end. 
 
 CHICKEN PIE. See Pie. 
 CHICKEN ROASTED. See Fowls. 
 
 "mJICKENS, SCOTCH WAV. Cut 
 
 yoftr chickens into quarters, put them into a 
 saucepan, with only just water enough to 
 cover them, a bunch of parsley, some chop- 
 ped parslev, and a little mace, cover them 
 close down, when it boils, add six eggs 
 well-beaten ; when the chickens are done, 
 take out the parsley, and serve them in a 
 deep dish with the sauce. 
 
 CHICKENS AND TOMATA SAUCE. 
 
 Mix together, in a stewpan, a little butter, 
 salt, pepper, lemon-juice, and grated nut- 
 meg, a sufficient quantity to put in two chick- 
 ens ; tie it in, and lay thin slices of lemon 
 on the breast of the chickens, and lay them 
 in a stewpan lined with thin rashers of ba- 
 con; cover them witJi tlie same, and stew 
 them with fire above and below for three 
 quarters of an hour; when done, drain them 
 in a cloth ; untie them, tind serve with toma- 
 ta sauce. 
 
 CHINA CHILO. Mince a pint basin 
 of undressed neck of mutton, or leg, and 
 some of tlie fat; put two onions, a lettuce, a 
 pint of green peas, a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 four spoonfuls of water, and two or three 
 ounces of clarified butter, into a stewpan 
 closely covered ; simmer two hours, and serve 
 I in the middle of a dish of boiled dry rice. If 
 Cayenne is approved, add a little. 
 
 CHICKEN PULLED. (1) Half roast CHILI, OR CAYENNE WINE. Pound 
 a chicken or fowl, skin and pull off in small j and steep fifty fresh red Chilies, or a quar- 
 flakes all the white meat and tlie meat of the j ter of an ounce of Cayenne pepper, in half
 
 CHO 
 
 51 
 
 CHO 
 
 a pint of brandy, white wine, or claret, for 
 fourteen days. This is a " bonne bouche" 
 for the lovers of Cayenne, of which it takes 
 up a larger proportion of its flavor than of 
 it.- fire: which Ix-ing instantly diffused, it is 
 a very useful auxiliary to warm and finish 
 soups, sauces, &c. 
 
 CHOCOLATE. According as you wish 
 to make this beverage, either w itli milk or 
 water, put a cup of one or oilier of these 
 liquids into a chocolate-|>oi, with one ounce 
 of cake chocolate. Some persons dissoKe 
 the chocolate in a little water Ixjfore they put 
 it into tin- milk. As soon as the milk or 
 water begins to boil, mill it. When the 
 chocolate is dissolved, and begins to bubble, 
 take it off the (in-, letting it stand near it 
 for a quarter of an hour; then mill it again 
 to make it frothy; afterwards serve it out 
 in cups. The chocolate must not be milled, 
 unless it is prewired with cream. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CREAM. See Creams. 
 
 CHOCOLATE FROTHED OR WHIP- 
 PED. 1'ut lialf a pound of chocolate to a 
 glass of water <.\cr a small (ire, stirring it 
 with a wooden s|>oon until perfectly dk-olv- 
 ed ; then take it off and add six yolks of 
 eggs, a pint of double cream, and three 
 quarters of a [xuniil of lewder-sugar. Pour 
 tile whole into a pan. and when cold, whip 
 it up as directed. SEE Cream Frothed. 
 
 CHOCOLATE WINE. Take a pint of 
 Sherry-, or a pint and a lialf of Port, four 
 ounces and a half of chocolate, six ounces of 
 fine sugar, and half an ounce of white starch, 
 or line lie. in- ; mix, dissolve, and boil all these 
 together for almut ten or twelve minutes. 
 But if your chocolate is made with sugar, 
 take donMe the quantity of chocolate, and 
 half the quantity of sugar. 
 
 CHOPS OR STEAKS. Those who 
 
 arc ui:-e al*.ut steaks, never attempt to have 
 them, except in weather which ]xTinits the 
 meat to ! him? till it is tender, and give the 
 butcher .-oine dav-' notii-e of t!i< ir wi.-h fir 
 tliciii. If, friendly reader, you wish toenlei - 
 tain your mouth wi'th a MiperUt ive U-cf-steak, 
 ynii mii.-t have the inside of (lie sirloin cut 
 into .-teak*. The next IK--I .-li .iks are tho.-e 
 cut from tlie middle ,,f a riiiiip, I hat has Uvn 
 killed atle:i>t loin day- ill moderate weather, 
 iuid Hindi longer in cold weather, when ihej 
 can lx> cut alxuit six inelie- Ion;;, fun i 
 wide, and half an inch thick: do not U.it 
 tlic.ni, which vulgar U ick breaks the cells in 
 which the yr.i\y of the meat is contained, 
 and it Ix-comes dry and ta-l.-h ss. V IJ. 
 If your butcher semis steak.- which are not 
 tender, we do in it insi.-t that \.,ii should 
 
 object to let him be Ixwten. Desire tlie 
 Ijutcher to cut them of even thickness; if he 
 does not, divide the thicker from tlie thinner 
 pieces, and give them time accordingly. 
 
 CHOWDER. I,ay some slices cut from 
 the fat part of a Ix-llv-piece of pork, in a 
 deep stewpan, mix sliced onions with a 
 variety of sweet herbs, and lay them on the 
 |>ork. Bone and cut a fresh cod into thin 
 .-liees, and place them on the pork ; then put 
 a layer of pork, on that a layer of biscuit, 
 then alternately the other materials until tlie 
 pan is' nearly full, season with pepper and 
 salt, put in about a pint and a lialf of water, 
 lay a paste over the whole, cover tlie stewpan 
 very close, and let it stand, with fire above 
 as well as below, for four hours; then skim 
 it well, and put it in a dish, pour a glass of 
 .Madeira made hot over it, also some Jamaica 
 pepper, stewed mushrooms, truffles, and 
 oysters; brown the paste slightly, and lay it 
 over tlie whole. 
 
 CHOWDER FOR TEN OR TWELVE. 
 
 Take of salt |x>rk cut in thin slices, as much 
 as will make half a pint of fat, when tried, 
 which will do for two good sized cod or 
 haddock. Be careful not to burn the fat 
 First, put your fat in the pot. Secondly, 
 cut your fish in as large pieces as will go 
 into the pot ; then put a layer of fish on the 
 fat ; pepper, salt and a few cloves, then a 
 layer of the slices of pork, strewed over with 
 onions cut fine ; then a layer of shiphread 
 or hard crackers dipped in water ; then your 
 thickening. Go on again with fish, &c. &c. 
 as above, till your |xit is nearly full, then put 
 in water until you can just see it, an 1 let it 
 stew slowly, so as not to break tlie fish. 
 After coming to a boil, it will be done in 
 twenty-five or thirty minutes. N. B. Some 
 like |x>latocs cut in slices, which may l in- 
 troduced between each layer. Likewise 
 wine or cider, as you fancy. QCJ- This 
 Receipt is according to the most approved 
 method, practised by fishing parties in Bos- 
 ton harbor. 
 
 CHOWDER, CL \ M , May Iw made in 
 the same way, substituting a sufficient 
 quantity of clams instead of cod, the heads 
 or hard leathery |>art being first cat off. 
 .Many prefer clam chowder, nicely cooked, 
 to chowder made of cod, had. lock. &C. 
 The pilgrim! to Plymouth, it is said, could 
 cook this shell lisli and lolisters i.. nearly 
 fifty dilli-icnt wa\s, anil even as puddings, 
 pancakes, &c. 
 
 C1IOUX. Put a pint of water into a 
 slew pan, with half a pound of fresh butler, 
 the rim!- of twu lemons grated, a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar, and a very little salt;
 
 coc 
 
 COD 
 
 as sxm as the water begins to boil, add as 
 much flour as the liquor will imbibe; when 
 the paste becomes very thick, keep stirring 
 with a spoon until quite done, then let it 
 cool. After that, break into it a sufficient 
 (after of egg! to make the paste soft ; taking 
 rare that it he firm enough to allow you to 
 work it up with the hand ; when it may In- 
 formed according to fancy. This paste may 
 be glazed and garnished either with almonds 
 or pistachio nuts; when baking the chour, 
 be careful to keep the oven tightly closed. 
 
 CITRON CHEESECAKES. Boil a 
 pint of cream, and when cold, mix with it 
 two eggs well-beaten ; then boil them togeth- 
 er until they become a curd. Beat a feu 
 blanched almonds in a mortar, with a little 
 orange-flower water; put them to the curd, 
 and add some Naples biscuits and green cit- 
 ron, chopped very small. Sweeten, and bake 
 in tins. 
 
 CITRON PUDDING. See Puddings. 
 
 CLARET PUFFS. Mix together, and 
 sweeten with pounded loaf sugar, a pint of 
 claret, and rather more than one of rich 
 cream; let it stand a night, and then whisk 
 it to a froth, which take oft" as it rises, and 
 put upon the back of a sieve to drain ; heap 
 it upon a dish, sweeten some rich cream, 
 and pour it round the froth, to make it float. 
 
 CLOVE, ESSENCE OF. Infuse a 
 drachm of oil of cloves in two ounces of 
 the strongest spirits of wine, apothecary's 
 measure. 
 
 CLOVE WATER. Mix a little cinna- 
 mon with the cloves, or the scent will l>e 
 too strong; allow half a score of cloves to a 
 quart of water; put in a good piece of 
 sugar; let them infuse some time over hot 
 embers, or in a warm place; then strain it 
 for use. 
 
 COBBLER. Name given U bread 
 toasted on one side only. 
 
 COCHINEAL PREPARED. Pound 
 an ounce of cochineal to a very fine powder, 
 pound also an ounce of cream of tartar, and 
 two drachms of alum; put these ingredients 
 into a saucepan with half. a pint of water; 
 when it boils take it from the lire, and let 
 it cool ; pour it oft' into a bottle, as free from 
 sediment as possible, and set it by for use. 
 
 COCOA. Put into a saucepan one ounce 
 of good cocoa and one quart of water; cover 
 it, and when it boils, set it In the side of the 
 fire to simmer for two hours. It is some- 
 times made in a larger quantity, poured 
 
 from the sediment, and boiled up as it IB re- 
 quired. 
 
 COCOA-NUT SWEETMEAT. (1) 
 
 Cut the nut out of the shell, jvire it carefully, 
 and throw it into cold water; then grate it, 
 andlxiil it in clarified sugar, (a pound to each 
 jxjund of the cocoa-nut; until quite thick; 
 stir it frequently to prevent its burning. 
 Then pour it on a well buttered dish or mar- 
 ble slab, and cut it into whatever forms you 
 1 think proper. 
 
 COCOA-NUT SWEETMEAT. (2) 
 
 Proceed as above, but do not boil the sugar 
 so thick by a great deal; then stir into it 
 whilst hot the yolks of six eggs; this must 
 be served in jelly gla- 
 
 COD. A cod-fish should be firm and 
 white, the gills red, and the eye lively; a 
 fine fish is \ery thick alxmt the neck; if the 
 flesh is at all flabby it is nut good. Cod la 
 in its prime during the months of October 
 and November, if the weather be cold; from 
 the latter end of March to May, cod is also 
 very fine. The length of time it requires 
 for boiling depends on the si/.e of the fish, 
 which varies from one pound to twenty; a 
 small fish, about two or three pounds weight 
 will Ix? stitlicientlv boiled in a quarter of an 
 hour or twenty minutes after the water boils. 
 Prepare a cod for dressing in the following 
 manner: empty and wash it thoroughly, 
 scrape ofTall the scales, cut open the Ix-lK*, 
 and wash and dry it well, rub a little salt 
 inside, or lay it for an hour in strong brine. 
 The simple way of dressing is i>a.~ follows: 
 Tic up the head, and put it into a fish-kettle, 
 with plenty of water and salt in it ; boil it 
 gently, and serve it with oyster sauce. Lay 
 a napkin under the fish, and garnish with 
 slices of lemon, horse-radish, &c. 
 
 COD BAKED. (1) Soak a fine piece 
 of the middle of fresh cod in melted butter, 
 with parsley and sweet herbs shred very fine; 
 let it stand over the lire lor sometime, and 
 then bake it. I*et it be of a good color. 
 
 COD BAKED. (2) Choose a fine large 
 cod, clean it well, and open the under part 
 to the bone, and put in a stulYing made with 
 i i :ii>!cy, .-wi'd hcibs sliced fine', an 
 egg, and seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 mace and grated lemon-ix-cl ; put this inside 
 the cod, sew it up, wrap it in a buttered pa- 
 per, and Iwike it; baste it well with melted 
 butter. 
 
 COD, TO CRIMP. Cut a fresh cod in- 
 to slices or steaks; lay them for three hours 
 in salt-and-water, and a glass of vinegar: 
 when they may lx; boiled, fried, or broiled
 
 COF 
 
 53 
 
 COF 
 
 COD PIE. See Pie. 
 
 COD SOUNDS. This ia the white skin 
 of die belly, and is reckoned a great delica- 
 cy, and may be either boiled, bruited, or 
 fried. Previous to dressing either way, they 
 should be well soaked, washed, and boiled a 
 little. 
 
 COD SOUNDS, BOILED WITH GRA- 
 
 FY. Scald tin-ill in hot water, and rub them 
 well wilh salt ; blanch them, that is, take off 
 thi- Marked dirty skin, then set them on in 
 cold water, and let them simmer till they 
 beuin to 1 tender; take them nut, flour, and 
 broil them on tile gridiron. In tile mean- 
 time, take a little good gravy, a little mus- 
 tard, a little liit of butter rolled in flour, give 
 it a lx>il, season it with pepper and salt. 
 Lay tile sounds in your dish, and pour die 
 sauce over them. 
 
 COD SOI -ND.S, BROILED. Letthem 
 
 lie in (toiling water till it is nearly cold, rub 
 them uiih .-alt, and pull off the black and 
 dirty skin, Imil them in hot water, drain, 
 and dust them with flour, rub them over 
 with Uitler, season with white pepper and 
 Kilt, and broil them. Put a table-spoonful 
 of catchup, half a one of soy, and a little Cay- 
 enne, into melted butter, heat and pour it over 
 them. 
 
 COD SOUNDS, ROASTED OR BAKED. 
 
 \\ ash and clean four or five cod sounds, and 
 bod ill. 'in till nearly done in milk-and-water ; 
 when cold, make a forcemeat of bread 
 crumbs; a piece of butter, salt, nutmeg, 
 white |M-ppcr, and some chop|>ed ovsters; 
 beat up the yolks of two eggs to bind it, lay- 
 it over the sounds, roll tin-in up, and la-ten 
 wilh a small skewer, baste them with melted 
 Imticr. and roll tln-m in finely grated bread 
 crumbs seasoned with |u-p|x-r and salt; put 
 them on a tin in a Dutch o\en, turn and 
 ba-te them wilh a featlier dipped in melted 
 butter, and strew over bread crumbs as be- 
 fore ; uh'-n done, and ofa nice brown, nerve 
 tliem \\ilh oyster sauce in the dish. 
 
 COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS, 
 
 To Hon.. Wash it clean; tie it up, and 
 dry it with a cloth. All nv in the propor- 
 tion of c\i-ry three measures of water, one of 
 wilt; wlx-n it Uiils take oflf the scum; put 
 in the lish, and kit-p it boiling \ery la.-l fir 
 twenty-live or thirty minutes. Serve with 
 tin- KM- mid ,,,il( parboiled, cut into slices, 
 and fried, and garnish wilh curled parsley 
 and In. isc-radish. Sauces: .\>lei, inched 
 butter, DI anch..\y luiller. 
 
 TV c,i, .-,>,( should be 
 three parts full of lx,jli,i_r u.ii,.,-; tlie milit- 
 
 ia to be added a spoonful at a time, and well 
 stirred between each ; then boil gently, still 
 stirring to prevent the mixture from boiling 
 over as the coffee swells, and to force it into 
 combination with tile water, this will be ef- 
 fected in a few minutes, after which, the 
 most gentle boiling must IK- kept up during 
 an hour. The coffee must then be i-cmn\ed 
 from the fire to settle, one or two spoonfuls 
 of cold water thrown in assists the. clarifica- 
 tion, and precipitates die grounds. In about 
 an hour, or as soon as the liquor has become 
 clear, it is to be poured into another vessel, 
 taking care not to disturb the sediment. 
 Coffee made in this manner will be of the 
 finest flavor, and may tie kept three day* 
 in summer, and four or five in winter; when 
 ordered for use, it only requires heating in 
 die coffee-pot, and may be served up at two 
 minutes' notice. Coffee should never be 
 roasted but at the precise time of its being 
 used, and then it should be watched with 
 the greatest care, and made of a gold color 
 rather than a brown one ; above all, take care 
 not to burn it, for a very few grains burnt 
 will be sufficient to communicate a bitter 
 and rancid taste to several pounds of coffee. 
 Jt is the best way to roast it in a roaster, 
 (over a charcoal fire), which turns with tlie 
 hand, as by that means it is not forgot, which 
 often is the case when on a spit before die 
 fire. 
 
 COFFEE, FRENCH METHOD OF 
 PREPARING. 1st. Let your coffee be dry, 
 not in the least mouldy or damaged. 2d. 
 Divide the quantity lhat is to be roasted into 
 two parts. 3d. Roast the first part in a 
 coder- roaster, the handle of which must be 
 kept constantly turning until the coffee be- 
 comes tile color of dried almonds or bread - 
 raspings, and has lost one eighth of its 
 weight. llh. I toast the second |>art until 
 it assumes the fine br\\n color of clu.-tniits, 
 and has lost OIK- tilth of its \\cight. 5th. 
 Mix the two parts together, and grind them 
 in a coffee mill. 6th. Do not roast or make 
 your collee until the day it is u anted. 7th. 
 To two ounces of ground coffee, jwit four 
 cups of cold water. Draw off this infusion, 
 and put it aside. Sth. Put to tlie coffee 
 which remains in the biggin, three cups of 
 lioilini: water, (hen drain it oil' and add this 
 inl'n.-i'/'i to that which has Ix-cii put aside. 
 By thi.- method you obtain three cups more. 
 When your coffee is wanted, In-at it (|iiickly 
 in a silver coffee-pot, taking care not to let 
 it boil, that tlie perfume may not U.- lost by 
 undergoing any evaporation. Then pour it 
 into cu|M, which each person may sweeten 
 according to his taste. Particular care 
 shoulil be taken not to make roflit- in a tin 
 vessel; it should be made either in a China 
 vessel, or one of Delft ware, or in one of
 
 COL 
 
 54 
 
 cou 
 
 silver. For a long time, the tin bigjins, in- 
 vented by .Monsieur de Belloy, were made 
 use of; but some person has since improved 
 upon Ins plan, by making them of silver or 
 porcelain, which are found to lie much tetter. 
 
 COFFEE CREAM. (1) Mix three 
 cups of good coffee with one pint of cream, 
 and sugar according to taste; boil them to- 
 gether, and reduce them about one-third ; 
 observe that the codec must be done as- if it 
 was for drinking alone, and settled very clear, 
 before you mix it with the cream. 
 
 COFFEE CREAM. (2) Boil a calf's 
 foot in water till it wastes to a pint of jellv; 
 clear oil' the sediment ami lilt. .Make a tea- 
 cup of eery strong coffee; clear it with a 
 bit of isinglass, to Ix: perfectly bright; pour 
 it to the jellv, and add a pint of very good 
 cream, and as much fine Lislxi'i sugar as is 
 pleasant; give one boil up, and pour into 
 tile dish. It should jelly, but not l;e still'. 
 Observe that your coffee be fresh. 
 
 COLLOPS. Cut some veal cutlets; fry 
 them a good brown, but not too much; take 
 some good gravy, thicken it with a little 
 flour, bi'il it a few minute.-; add Cayenne, 
 catchup, truffles, morels, salt, n 
 pickled, "rated lemon-peel; simmer this up, 
 just heat th" coli.ips through, add whatgravy 
 came iVom them, but do not let them boil, or 
 they will lie hard; add I'ueeiaeal halls, hard 
 yolk i.f e^gs; lay round little .slice, nf ba- 
 con, notched and toasted, and sliced lemon. 
 
 COLLOPS, MINCED. Cut two 
 
 pounds of lean tender beef into thin slices 
 it is l>est taken from off the rump, or round ; 
 mince it very finely; brown two ounces of 
 butter in a frying-pan, dredging it with a 
 little Hour, then add the minced meat, and 
 1 iling it with a Ix-ater till of a nL-e 
 
 brown color. Have ready some highly-sea- 
 soned !>(!' gravy, which, with the minced 
 c::!l'>]'s, put into a saucepan, and let it stew 
 half a\> h -nr ; and just l>eforc serving, put a 
 titble-sjXKunful of mushroom catchup, and, if 
 liked, some green pickles. Beef suet is as 
 ofieii used as butter to fry the collops in. 
 
 COLLOPS, RUSSIAN. Break four eggs 
 , into a stewpan, and mix with them two 
 S]X>onfuls of /lour, then half a glass of good 
 Cieam, a spoonful of warm butter, and a 
 grain of salt ; when these are well mixed to- 
 gether, |H)ur some of it into a large frying-pan, 
 and fry it of a light color on both sides; 
 then take it out, and fry more in the same 
 way, like pancakes, until you have a dozen 
 very thin, cut each in half, and trim them 
 into oblong pieces all the same size: lay on 
 each some quenelle, minced fowl or game, 
 
 as if for croquettes; wrap the fried batter 
 round it, wetting the edges, that (hey may 
 adhere properly, with a little of the batter, 
 having reserved some for the purpose; ihen 
 have ready beaten, six eggs and a little salt, 
 mask till-in with brcad-<Tiiii]l>s, fry them of a 
 good color, and serve them quickly. 
 
 COLLOPS, SCOTCH. Cut veal cut- 
 lets (taken from the fillet) into small thin 
 pieces, and fry thf-in in a little hoilin<; lard 
 till of a light brown color. Drain them dry, 
 put them into a stewpan. add eullis. Mewed 
 mushrooms, some blanched truffles, morels, 
 pieces of artichoke bottoms, some slices of 
 throat sweetbread.:, and egg balls. Let 
 tilt-in simmer over a slow lire till tender, 
 season to the palate, and serve them with 
 ras!i;Ts of broiled bacon round them. 
 
 COLD MEAT BROILED, WITH 
 POACHED EGGS. The inside of a sirloin 
 of Iv;.'/' is best tiir this di^h, or a leg of mut- 
 ton. Cut the .-licesof even and equal thick- 
 ness, and broil and brown them tarofiilly 
 ant! slightly over a clear smart (ire, or in a 
 Dutch oven; give those slices most fire that 
 are least done; la\ them in a dish Ix-fore the 
 (ire to keep hot, while you |x>ach the eggs, 
 and mash potatoes. 
 
 COLORING FOR JELLIES, CAKES, 
 &c. For a beautiful red. boil fifteen grains 
 of cochineal in the (ine.-t powder, with a 
 drachm and a half of cream of tartar, in 
 half a pint of water very slowly, half an 
 hour. Add, in boiling, a bit of alum the 
 size of a pea. Or use Ix-ct-root sliced, and 
 some liquor poured over. For white, use 
 almonds finely powdered with a little drop 
 of water ; or us; 1 IT. am. For ycllw-. y .!!- - 
 of eggs, or a bit of sa)1ro:i steeped in the li- 
 quor, and sq-.ice/ed. For green, |>ound 
 spinach-lea-, e>. or bect-lcavcs, esprcss the 
 juice, and boil a tea-cupful in a >aucepan 
 of water, to take oft' the rawness. 
 
 CONSO.MMF,. Take cbjit or ten 
 pounds of beef-steaks, eijht old hens, two 
 young ones, and fmr knuckles of Viol; put 
 o a large pot, and till it with strong 
 broth; skim it well, cooling it three or lour 
 times to make the scum rise, after which let 
 it boil gently; put into the |H>t carrots, tur- 
 nips, onions, and three cl'iM's. ^ hen your 
 meat is sufficiently done, pass the liquor 
 through a fine napkin or silk sieve, that it 
 may lie very clear. No salt need be put in 
 if strong broth be used. 
 
 COUGLAUFFLE, GERMAN. Take 
 
 three pounds of (lour, an ounce and a half 
 of yeast, an ounce of tine salt, a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, twelve eggs, the yolks of
 
 cou 
 
 55 
 
 CRA 
 
 twelve more, two pounds of fresh butter, 
 three glasses of milk, and a quarter of a 
 pound of sweet almonds. Proceed \villi 
 these materials in tlic following manner: 
 put the twitter (having slightly wanned half 
 a pound of it), into a glazed pan, and with 
 a l;ir_fc wooden spoon work it up fir six or 
 seven minutes; then put in two whole eggs, 
 anil stir it two minutes ; then add three yoiks, 
 and stir again two minutes; in this manner 
 put in the whole number of eggs anil yolks; 
 which will produce a kind of smooth cream. 
 Then In decrees mix in two pounds of die 
 flour, dissolve the yeast in a jjlass. of warm 
 milk, strain it through a napkin, stir this in 
 well, with another half pound of flour; 
 make a hollow in the paste, in \\hu-li put 
 the salt and sugar in powder; afterwards 
 pour on it a glass of hot milk, and mix the 
 whole together with the remainder of the 
 flour; continue to work it up lor ? 
 
 i the whole ingredients are jii|t in, 
 adding a small quantity of warm milk, whk'li 
 will render it smooth. Havea mould ready, 
 butter it, and lay the sweet aim* nds, each 
 cut in hail", over the bottom of the muU, in 
 firms, 0:1 wliich pour the paste carefully, 
 and in small quantities, so as not V) derange 
 the almonds. Place your mould in a warm, 
 but not a li.it place, that the cake may rise 
 pro|>crly ; and when that operation has taken 
 place, put it into a moderate oven, which 
 phould he Kept closed; in an hour's time 
 look nt the Couglaiiffle, and if it !>; flexible, 
 and of a 11,'ht coin-, let it remain thirty or 
 forty inimues longer; but if it be (inn and 
 red it i- .Millirie.itK d .me; whea taken from 
 the mould, put it into the oven again for a 
 
 COUGLAUFFLE3, SMALL. To 
 
 m;ikc :i d.i/,1-11 small couglauffles, take three 
 quarters of a jmiind of llour, tlui-e drachma 
 
 . uvo of sail. l>vo whole e 
 yolk<. two ounces uf .-uijar, a littfe cream, 
 and half u |xmud of Imtter. The prepara- 
 
 tion i> mad ill.- .-.i.ue as the (icrmau Cou- 
 
 glaujffl". \Vln-u the past*- is maile, di\ide 
 
 it i-ii p iiu-l\e e.|ii:il (tarts; butter a <\ /.<. \ 
 
 cuuli bi.-cuit iiD.ild.-. and lill e.i.-li \\ith \"iir 
 
 . .'i, and Irl tin-. a stand: u hull risen 
 
 fill tli-- in .uiMs, put tin in into a 
 
 1'i'i-U o\eii, HIM! t.iue ill MI out o.s 80011 as 
 
 of a light ef,l,,r. 
 
 {I'l'.S. Put into a saucepan tin- 
 yolk.- i if sixteen eggs, U>e rinds of two lem- 
 ons, half an ounce of salt, and t\\ 
 
 ;uir a pint of boiling 
 cream, .-lining it quick; set it on the tire, 
 but do not let it K>il, Mi-iin it through a 
 bolting, and then let it cool ; take two 
 pounds of Hour, and make a quarter of it 
 
 into Jeaverr with half an ounce of yeast and 
 a little warm water, keep it rather moist, 
 and put it mto a warm place to rise: in the 
 meantime, make the remainder of the flour 
 into a paste, with the cream and a quarter 
 of a pound of Initter, knead it up five or six 
 times; then put in the leaven, and knead it 
 again twice; tie it up in a floured cloth, and 
 set it in a warm place. In about two hours 
 take it out, and cut the paste in pieces the 
 size of an egg, form them to that shape, and 
 lay them on a baking tin, and leave them 
 for half an hour to rise, then gild and 
 Inke them in a hot oven; when done, open 
 each on one side, take out a little of the 
 crumb, in the place of which put a bit of 
 bulier \\.irked n;> with a little salt, and 
 serve them. 
 
 COURT BOUILLON. Cut a proper 
 
 quantity of carrots, onions, celery, and ttir- 
 :ii: .--. a..id put them into a saucerxin widi 
 ns|< \, Liarli,-, thyme, basil, salt, a 
 mignonette and cloves; sweat them OUT a 
 gentle lire; add white wine, vinegar or 
 verjuice ; boil, and then strain it, and servo 
 it -with whatever you may require it for. 
 It is generally used for fish. 
 
 COURT BOUILLON FOR ALL 
 SORTS OF FRESH WATER FISH. Put 
 some wafer into a fish-kettle, with a quart 
 of white wine, a slice of butter, salt, pepper, 
 a large bunch of parsley ami young onions, a 
 clove of garlic, thyme, Iray-k-aves, and basil 
 all tied together, some sliced onions and 
 some carrots ; boil the fish in this court 
 bouillon, (which will serve for several times) 
 and do not scale it ; when the fish will ad- 
 mit of it, take care to boil it wrap|:e.d in a 
 napkin, which makes it more easy to take 
 out without danger of breaking. 
 
 < 'I )\V-I IEEL, In the hands of a skilful 
 cook, will furnish several good meals; when 
 boiled tender, cut it into handsome pieces, 
 ei;,' and bread-crumb them, and fry them a 
 lijil brown; lav them round a dish, and put 
 in the middle of it sliced onions tried, or the 
 accompaniments ordered for trijx-. The 
 liquor they were boiled in will make 
 gap* 
 
 CRACKNELS. Mix a quart of flour, 
 half a nutmeg grated, the yolks of four eggs 
 beaten, with four spoonfuls of roscwaler, into 
 a stiff p:i>lc, uiih cold water; tlicn nib in a 
 l mi id of Uitter, and make into a cracknel 
 sha|>e; [Hit theai into a kettle of U)iling 
 water, and Ixiil them till the\ swim; then 
 take them out. and put them into cold water; 
 when ha.d.'ni-d, l:i\ them out to dry, and 
 bake thcai oil tin plate*.
 
 CRE 
 
 56 
 
 CRE 
 
 CRACKIS'ELS, SMALL SOFT. Blanch 
 half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound 
 them to a fine paste, adding to them by de- 
 grees six eggs ; when thoroughly pounded, 
 jxinr on them .1 pound of powder-sugar, the 
 same of butter, and tlie rinds of two lemons 
 grated ; beat up these ingredients in tlie 
 mortar: put a pound of flour on a slab, and 
 having poured the almond paste on it, knead 
 them together until they are well incorporat- 
 ed ; roll it out, and cut the cracknels into 
 such forms as you may think proper, rub 
 them with yolk of egg, and strew over them 
 powder-sugar or cinnamon: then lay them 
 on a buttered tin, and bake them in a mode- 
 rate oven, taking great care that they do not 
 burn. When done, put them into glasses, 
 and if preserved in a dry place they are tlie 
 better for keeping. 
 
 CRANBERRIES, DIFFERENT WAYS 
 OF DRESSING. For pies and puddings, 
 with a good deal of sugar. Stewed in a 
 jar, with tlie same ; this way they eat well 
 with bread, and are very wholesome. Thus 
 done, pressed, and strained, the juice makes 
 a fine drink for people in fevers. 
 
 CREAM, ALMOND. Blanch and 
 pound to a paste, with rose water, six 
 ounces of almonds, mix them with a pint 
 and a half of cream which has been boiled 
 with the peel of a small lemon ; add two 
 well-beaten eggs, and stir the whole over 
 the fire till it be thick, taking care not to 
 allow it to boil ; sweeten it, and when near- 
 ly cold, stir in a table-spoonful of orange- 
 flower or rose water. 
 
 CREAM, APPLE. (1) Boil twelve 
 large apples in water till soft, take off the 
 peel, and press the pulp through a hair sieve 
 upon half a pound of pounded loaf sugar; 
 whip tlie whites of two eggs, add them to 
 the apples, and beat all together till it lx>- 
 comes very stiff, and looks quite white. 
 Serve it heaped up on a dish. 
 
 CREAM, APPLE. (2) Peel and core 
 five large apples ; boil them in a little water, 
 till soft enough to press through a sieve; 
 sweeten, and beat with them the whisked 
 whites of five eggs. Serve it with cream 
 poured round it. 
 
 CREAM, ARROW-ROOT. Mix a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of arrow-root with a tea-cupful 
 of cold water ; let it settle, and jxnir the wa- 
 ter off. Sweeten and boil a quart of milk 
 with the peel of a lemon and some cinnamon ; 
 pick them out, and pour it tailing upon the 
 arrow-root, stirring it well and frequently 
 till it be cold. Serve it in a glass or china 
 dish, with or without grated nutmeg on the 
 
 top. It may be eaten with any preserved 
 fruit, or fruit tarts. 
 
 CREAM, BACCHIC. Put a pint and a 
 half of white wine, with .some lemon-peel, 
 coriander seed, a bit of cinnamon, and three 
 ounces of sugar, into a stewpan, and let 
 them boil a quarter of an hour; then mix 
 half a tea-spoonful of Hour with tlie yolks of 
 six eggs in another ste\v|>an, and stir in by 
 degrees the oilier previously lx>iled ingre- 
 dients. When about half cold, strain tlie 
 whole through a sieve and put it in a dish 
 in hot water, over the fire, till the cream is 
 set; lastly, take it out, and put it in a cool 
 place till ready to serve. 
 
 CREAM, BARLEY. Boil a small quan- 
 tity of pearl barley in milk and water, till 
 tender, strain off the liquor, and put the 
 barley into a quart of cream, to boil a little. 
 Then take the whites of five eggs and the 
 yolk of one, beat them with one spoonful of 
 flour, and two of orange-flower water. Take 
 tlie cream from tlie fire, mix the eggs in by 
 degrees, and set it over the fire again to 
 thicken. Sweeten it, and pour into cups or 
 glasses for use. 
 
 CREAM, BURNT. Boil a pint of cream 
 with the peel of a lemon, sweeten it with 
 pounded loaf sugar; teat, with the yolks of 
 six, and whites of four eggs, one table-s|x>on- 
 ful of flour, the same of orange-flower water 
 and of ratafia ; strain the cream, and when 
 nearly cold, mix it with tlie eggs and other 
 things ; stir it over the fire till it becomes as 
 thick as a custard; put it into the dish it is 
 to be served in. Boil with a little water 
 some pounded loaf sugar, till it turn brown, 
 but do not stir it till taken off die fire; by 
 degrees pour it in figures over tlie top of tlie 
 cream. It may be eaten hot or cold. 
 
 CREAM CAKES. See Cakes. 
 
 CREAM, CHOCOLATE. (1) Take 
 
 a pint of milk, a gill of cream, the yolks of 
 three eggs, and five ounces of powder ?iiL;:ir, 
 mix these ingredients together, set them on 
 the fire, stir it constantly, and let it boil till 
 reduced to a quarter; tlien add two ounces 
 of grated chocolate ; and having Ixjiled a lit. 
 tie longer, strain it, and let it cool. Serve 
 it cold. 
 
 CREAM, CHOCOLATE. (2) Take 
 
 about half a cake of chocolate, bruise it to 
 pieces, put it in a stewpan with a little milk, 
 and stir it over a gentle fire till it looks 
 smooth and thick; then add a little more 
 milk, and stir it again over the fire; con- 
 tinue this till it takes the thickness of cream;
 
 CRE 
 
 57 
 
 CRE 
 
 sweeten it to vour palate with clarified su- 
 gar; stir in a little thick cream with a very 
 little isinglass, rub it through the tammy, 
 and set it in the mould. 
 
 CREAM CUSTARD. See Custard. 
 
 CREAM FRITTERS. Mix a liandf.il 
 of flour, with tlir.i- whole ci;^s,and the yolks 
 of six, lour pounded macaroons, gome dried 
 orange-Hi meis, browned in sugar, a little 
 candietl lemon-peel chop|x'd very line, half 
 a pint of cream, half a pint of milk, and a 
 lump of sugar; boil the whole OMT a gentle 
 fire for a quarter of an hour, till the cream 
 turns to a thick paste ; then let it cool in a 
 dish well floured, shaking Ilour all oxer it. 
 When cold, cut the paste into small pieces, 
 roll them in your hands till they become 
 round, and fry them of a good color; when 
 them, powder them all oxer \xitli 
 sugar. 
 
 .. M FROTH. Put a pint of fresh 
 
 mi into a stone pan. \vith half a 
 pound of (xmder sugar, a pinch of gum 
 i llnle crisped orange-flower, and 
 I* of cedrat essence; when the su- 
 grir is dissolved, place the [Kin in another, in 
 which is three p< Hinds of ice beaten up with 
 saltpetre; whip the cream in the usual man- 
 ner, taking off the froth as it rises with a 
 Bkimui'T, lay it gently on a sieve over a 
 pan ; if the cream does not froth properly, 
 add die whites of two eggs. This cream is 
 usually served in large silver or gilt goblets, 
 ild IK- prepared two or three hours 
 it is x\ anted. 
 
 ;i; i : \ M r< >R FRUIT TARTS. Boil 
 
 l, txvo or three peach 
 
 * bruised hitter almonds, in a 
 
 quart of milk; strain, sxxii-len, and mix it, 
 
 -il, xxith three or four well-lx-aten 
 
 ,' it constantly oxer the fire till it 
 
 It may ! eaten xvith slewed 
 
 apple*, prunes, damsons, or any other fruit. 
 
 \M. IMI'KRIAL. Boilaquartof 
 >tli (! thin rind of a lemon; then 
 etir it till nearly cold; have ready in a 
 Ixuxl that you are to serve in, 
 of three lemons strained, with as 
 much siijTir as xx ill sweeten the cream, which 
 pour into the dish from a large teapot, hold- 
 ing it high, and moving il alxuit to mix with 
 the juice. It should be made at least six 
 hours In-fore it i served, and will be still 
 better if a day. 
 
 CREAM ITALIAN. (1) Boil a pint and 
 a half of milk in a stexxpan, then add to it 
 the peel of a voting lemon, some coriander 
 seed, a bit of cinnamon, ratltcr more than 
 
 half a quarter of a pound of sugar, and txvo 
 or three grains of salt; let it t>oil till half is 
 consumed ; then let it stand to cool, and 
 have ready in anodier atewpan a little (lour, 
 beat up with the yolks of six eggs; stir it 
 by degrees into the cream; strain it through 
 a sieve, and put it in the dish tor table, 
 placing the dish in some hot water over the 
 lilt- till the cream is set. Before serving, 
 brown with a salamander. 
 
 CREAM ITALIAN. (2) Put a gill of 
 good fresh cream, two eggs, three spoonfuls 
 of powder-sugar, and a little orarige-llower 
 water, into a pan, and whip them up togeth- 
 er; and when the cream is sufficiently thick, 
 put it into a deep dish, xvith plenty of pow- 
 der-sugar; set it on hot ashes, cox-er it, and 
 lay hot ashes on die top, which must be 
 renewed until the cream is done enough; 
 then let it cool, and serve it. 
 
 CREAM, LEMON. Steep die thinly- 
 pared rinds of four large lemons in a pint of 
 water for twelve hours ; strain, and dissolve 
 in it three-quarters of a pound of fine loaf 
 sugar, add the juice of the lemons strained, 
 and the well-lx-aten \x i. i, and the 
 
 yolk of one egg. Boil it over a slow fire, 
 stirring it constantly one way, till it is like 
 a thick cream; pour it into a glass or china 
 dish. 
 
 CREAM, ORANGE. (1) Squeeze and 
 strain the juice of eleven oranges, sweeten 
 it well with pounded loaf sugar, stir it over 
 a slow fire till the sugar be dissolved, and 
 take off the scum as it rises; when cold, 
 mix it with the well-beaten yolks of twelve 
 eggs, to which a pint of cream has been 
 Mr it again over the fire till thick. 
 Serve in a glass dish or custard-cups. 
 
 CREAM, ORANGE. (2) Sweeten, 
 with pounded loaf sugar, a quart of good 
 cream; mix xxith it a small xxiiu- 
 orange-lluxver water, the grated rind and 
 the juice of a Seville orange; whisk it till 
 quite thick; soak some macaroons in white 
 wine, and pile them in the middle of a glass 
 or china dish, and heap the whip|x>d cream 
 over them a? high as possible. Some hours 
 after, ornament it with slices of green citron 
 cut into straws, and stuck into the cream. 
 
 CREAM, RATAFIA. In a t.-a-oupful 
 of thin cream Ixiil txvo or three large laurel, 
 or young peach leaves ; when it has boiled 
 them or four minutes, strain, and mix with 
 il a pint of rich sweet cream ; add three welK 
 Ix-alen whiles of eggs, and sweeten it with 
 |XMinded loaf .-r.spir. Put it into a saucepan,. 
 and stir it gently one way over a slow fire- 
 till it be thick; pour it into a china dish,
 
 CRE 
 
 58 
 
 CRE 
 
 and when quite cold, ornament it with sweet- 
 meats cut out like flowers; or strew over 
 the top harlequin comfits. 
 
 CREAM, RASPBERRY. (1) Mix a 
 
 little pounded Ioafsug-.tr with a pint and a 
 half of good cream, about a tea-cupful of 
 raspberry jelly, the grated rind of one, and 
 the juice of half a lemon ; beat it well to- 
 gether, and, with a syllabub mill, mill it 
 slowly for lialf an hour, or till it be thick and 
 solid. Put it into a glass dish, or serve it in 
 custard glasses. 
 
 CREAM, RASPBERRY. (2) Put six 
 ounces of raspberry jam to a quart of cream, 
 pulp it through a lawn sieve, mix it with the 
 juice of a lemon and a little sugar, and 
 whi.sk it till thick. Serve it in a dish or 
 glasses. Strawberry cream may be made 
 in the same way. For common use, substi- 
 tute good milk for the cream. 
 
 CREAM, RED CURRANT. (1) Pick 
 the currants from the stalks, put them into a 
 jar closely covered, and stand it in a pan 
 of cold water; let it boil for two hours, strain 
 the juice through a sieve, and sweeten it 
 well with pounded loaf sugar. When cold, 
 add a quart of cream to a pint of juice, and 
 beat it with a whisk till thick. Serve in a 
 deep glass dish. 
 
 CREAM, RED CURRANT. (2) 
 Squeeze three-quarters of a pint of juice 
 from red currants when full ripe, add to it 
 rather more than a quarter of a pound of 
 pounded loaf sugar, and the juice of one 
 lemon ; stir it into a pint and a half of cream, 
 and wfaiak it till quite thick. 
 
 CREAM ROSEAT. Beat to a stiff 
 froth the whites of four eggs ; sweeten and 
 boil a pint of good milk, drop about three 
 table-spoonfuls of the froth into it, turn it 
 over once, or twice with the spoon, take it 
 out, and put it upon the back of a lawn sieve 
 placed over a large plate; repeat this till it 
 is all done; add to the milk another half 
 pint, with a little more sugar, and mix it 
 with the beaten yolks of the eggs; stir it 
 over the fire till thick ; put it into a basin, 
 and stir now and then till nearly cold ; add 
 a table-spoonful of rose water, and one of 
 brandy. Serve it in a glass dish, and lav 
 the whites of the eggs over the top at equal 
 distances. Cut citron and candied orange- 
 peel into straws, and put them over the 
 whites of the eggs, or strew over them color- 
 ed comfits. 
 
 CREAM OF RICE SOUP. Mix one 
 
 or two table-spoonfuls of sifted flour of rice 
 with a little good slock, ratlier cold than 
 
 hot; add this to some boiling stock, and 
 keep stirring till it boils; and let it boil till 
 sufficiently thick. The flour of rice may be 
 made as follows: Wash in several waters 
 a pound of rice ; wipe it in a clean towel, 
 and when perfectly dry pound and sift it 
 through a sieve. 
 
 CREAM, SNOW. Take a pint of fresh 
 cream, and mix with it eight spoonfuls of 
 powder-sugar, the whites of two eggs, and 
 a spoonful of orange-flower water, 6r any 
 oilier aromatic ingredient you like better; 
 whip it, and remo\e the froth or snow in 
 the usual way. This cream may l>e colored 
 according to your fancy, with saffron, car- 
 mine, or indigo. 
 
 CREAM, SOLID. Squee/e the juice 
 of a large lemon upon three or lour table- 
 spoonfuls of |x untiled loaf sugar, add two 
 table-spoonfuls of brandy, and one pint of 
 cream; pour it from one cup into another, 
 till it lie sufficiently thick. 
 
 CREAM, SPANISH. Boil, in half a 
 pint of water, half an ounce of isinglass, till 
 dissolved; strain, and mix it with a quart 
 of cream or good milk; if cream, not so 
 much isinglass; stir il over the tire till it 
 come to aboil; when a little cooled, add 
 gradually the liealen volks of six eggs, and a 
 glass of white wine. Pour it into a deep 
 dish, sweeten with pounded loaf sugar, stir 
 it till cold, and then put it into a shape. 
 
 CREA3I, STONE. Put three table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon -juice, and the grated peel 
 of one, some preserved apricots, or any other 
 svuvtmeat, into a glassor China dish. Boil 
 a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a little 
 water, till dissolved ; add it toa pint of cream, 
 sweetened well with pounded loaf sugar; 
 boil it, and stir it all the time; |ur it into 
 a jug, stir it now and then till milk-warm, 
 then pour it over the sweetmeat round and 
 round. Il may be made the day before 
 being served. 
 
 CREAM, SWISS. (1) Boil the grated 
 peel of a large lemon, and three-quarters of 
 a pound of pounded loaf sugar, in a pint of 
 cream; squeeze the juice of the lemon upon 
 a table-spoonful of liour, work it well togeth- 
 er, and gradually add to it the boiling cream, 
 and heat it all over the fire; pour it i to a 
 basin, and when nearly cold, put it into a 
 glass or China dish, and garnish it with 
 candied orange-peel, and citron cut into 
 straws. This cream requires to be constant- 
 ly stirred till it is put into the dish in which 
 it is to be served. 
 
 CREAM, SWISS. (2) Whisk upon
 
 CRO 59 
 
 a hot plate, the yolks of eight eggs, half a 
 pound of finely-pounded sugar, the grated 
 rind of a lemon, and half a pint of light 
 French or Rlienish white wine, and send it 
 warm to table. 
 
 CREAM TART. See Tart. 
 
 CREAM, WHIPPED. Sweeten, with 
 pounded In. if sugar, a quart of cream, and 
 add to it a lump of sugar which has been 
 rubbed upon tlie peel of two fine lemons or 
 bitter oranges; or flavor it with orange- 
 flower water, a little essence of roses, the 
 juice of ripe strawberries, or of any other 
 fruit. Whisk die cream well in a large pan, 
 ami as the froth rises, take it off, and lay it 
 upon a sieve placed over another pan, and 
 return the cream which drains from the froth, 
 till all is whisked, then heap it upon a dish, 
 or put it into glasses. Garnish with thinly- 
 pared citron, or cednit cut into small leaves, 
 or into any fanciful sliajx-. To color the 
 rose cream, or to heighten (hat of strawber- 
 ry, a little carmine or lake may be mixed 
 with tlie cream, which may be iced when 
 made. 
 
 CKKAM, WHITE LEMON. (1) Rub, 
 
 with snine lump.- of loaf sugar, the rinds of 
 six lemons, and grate off the remainder; 
 squeeze and strain tlie juice, and add the 
 grated peel and sugar, with three-quarters 
 of a IHMIM.I of pounded loaf sugar ; put to this 
 a quart of rich cream, and whisk it till very 
 thick. The 1'illow in;; day, soak five or six 
 sponge biscuits in white wine, and put over 
 tin-in tlie cream. 
 
 CREAM, WHITF. LEMON. (2) Boil 
 
 the thin |fl of two lemons in a pint of 
 cream; strain, and thicken it with the well- 
 Ix-aten \ulk.i of three, and white* of four 
 eggs; sweeten it with pounded loaf sugar, 
 stir it till ni-aily cold, and put it into 
 
 CRU 
 
 CROQUANTE OF PASTE. Roll out 
 jxi.-ti-. about the eighth of an inch thick ; 
 nihn\ei- :i plain mould with a little fresh 
 butter; lay on the paste very even, and 
 equally thin on Ix.tli sides; pare it round tlie 
 rim; then with a small penknife rut out 
 .small pieces, as fancy may direct, such as 
 diamonds, stars, circles, sprigs, fee. ; or use 
 a small tin cutler of any .-lia|ie: k-t it lie to 
 dry tometine, and liake it a few minutes in 
 a slack oven, of a li>;lit color: remove it 
 from the mould, and place it over a tart, or 
 any other dish of small pastry. 
 
 < K'HiUE. These are large pieces of 
 onmental confectiofltfy, formed of various 
 materials, as gimblttles, croquignolts,gen- 
 
 oitet, Sfc., or of oranges, cut into quarters. 
 chestnuts, green nuts, &c., arranged with- 
 in moulds according to fancy, and cemented 
 together with boiled sugar. 
 
 CROQUETS. Pound, in a marble 
 mortar, cold veal and fowl, with a little suet, 
 some cliopped lemon-peel, lemon thyine, 
 chives, and parsley. Season with nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt; mix all well together, and 
 add the yolk of an egg well-beaten; roll it 
 into hulls, and dip them into an egg beaten 
 up, then sift bread crumbs over them, and 
 fry them in butter. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF BOILED MEAT. 
 
 Mince some boiled meat very small; add to 
 it some sausage-meat, mashed potatoes, 
 cnmihsj of bread, soaked in milk, and sweet 
 Ix'ihs; make them into a paste, and form i. 
 into little balLs ; roll them in very- fine rasp- 
 ings, and fry them of a nice color. Serve 
 them with sauce piquant e. 
 
 CROQUETS OF SWEETBREADS. 
 
 .Mince some cold sweetbreads, which have 
 been dressed, and boil them in a sauce ve- 
 loute ; when quite cold, form them into halls, 
 or into rolls, a) mut two inches long; fr\ and 
 MTU- iliem with fried parsley in tin- middle. 
 Or, make the croquet meal into a rissole. 
 Roll out a piece of thin pnfl" paste, enclose 
 tlie meat in it, brush it over w ith a beaten 
 ind strew over it grated bread; fry it 
 of a light brown color. 
 
 CRUMPETS. (1) Make a pint of 
 warm milk, a quarter of a pint of yeast broth, 
 strained into a strong batter, with a sufficient 
 quantity of flour; cover, and set it in a 
 warm place to rise ; then add a quarter of 
 a pint of warm milk, an ounce of butter 
 worked up in a little Hour, but only Hour 
 enough to prevent tlie liatter from being too 
 thin; in a quarter of an hour have the iron 
 rings ready on a plate of iron over a stove; 
 pour the batter into these rings, and kike 
 them. 
 
 CRUMPETS, OR PIKELETS. (2) 
 
 Set a sponge as for bread, excepting that 
 lull" milk and half water must be used; and 
 to every half-quartern of flour, two egga 
 must be added; l>eat tlie eggs thoroughly. 
 Bake them in rings as usual. 
 
 CRUST, FOR VENISON PASTY. 
 
 Work into a paste with warm water, two 
 pounds and a lialf of butter, a peck of fine 
 flour, ami four eggs; work it smooth, and 
 to a good ri insistence. The paste should be 
 put round the inside, but not at the bottom 
 of tin- dish ; let the cover be tolerably thick, 
 to bear tlie long continuance in die oven.
 
 cue 
 
 60 
 
 CUL 
 
 CRUST, RAISED. (1) Melt, in one 
 pint of water, one pound of fresh lard ; weigh 
 four pounds of flour, jmt it into a basin, and 
 when i In 1 water and lard is hot, with a horn 
 spoon stir it by degrees amongst the flour. 
 When well mixed, work it with the hands 
 till it is a stifl" paste, when it is fit for use. 
 
 CRUST, RAISED. (2) Put into a 
 saucepan one pint and a half of water, four 
 pounds of flour, and .four ounces and a half 
 of butter; stir it till it is a thick paste, take 
 it out, and add the yolks of three or four 
 beaten eggs; work it well together, roll it 
 out rather more than half an inch thick; 
 cut out the top and bottom, and a long piece 
 of proper depth for the sides. Brush round 
 the bottom with well-beaten whites of eggs; 
 set on the sides, keeping the paste rather 
 within die edge of the bottom ; pinch it all 
 round, to make the pieces adhere, then fill 
 tlie pie, and brush round the upper sides of 
 the crust and the outer edges of the cover 
 with egg ; lay on die cover, pinch it round 
 neatly, and ornament it according to fancy 
 with leaves, festoons, or chains of rings 
 made of the paste. 
 
 CRUST SHORT. (1) Pound, sift, 
 and dry two ounces of white sugar; then 
 mix it with a |x>und of well dried flour, rub- 
 bing into it, so fine as not to, be seen, three 
 ounces of butter ; then put the yolks of two 
 eggs into some cream, and mix die whole 
 into a smooth paste; roll it out thin, and 
 bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 CRUST SHORT, NOT SWEET, BUT 
 RICH. (2) Mix into a stirlish paste, us- 
 ing as little water as possible, six ounces of 
 butler, with eight ounces of fine flour, (rub- 
 bing the butter well into the flour, before 
 mixing it with the water) lx;at it well, and 
 roll it Ulin. This crust is proper as well as 
 the alxjve, for Uirls of fresh or preserved 
 fruits. Let it bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 CUCUMBERS STEWED. Peel and 
 
 cat cucuwlx.Ts in quarters, take out die seeds, 
 and lay them on a cloth to drain off the wa- 
 ter: when they are dry, flour and fry them 
 in fresh butter; let the butter be quite hot 
 before you put in the cucumbers ; fry them 
 till they are brown, then take them out with 
 an egg-slice, and lay them on a sieve to 
 drain the fat. from diem (some cooks fry 
 sliced onions, or some small button onions, 
 with them, till they are a delicate light 
 brown color, drain them from the fat, and 
 then put them into a stewpan with as much 
 gravy as will cover them): stew slowly till 
 they are tender; take out the cucumbers 
 with a slice, thicken the gravy with flour 
 and butter, give it a boil up, season it with 
 
 pepper and salt, and put in the cucumbers; 
 as soon as they are warm, they are ready. 
 Tlie above, nibt>ed through a tamis, or fine 
 sieve, will l)e entitled to be called " cucum- 
 IXT sauce." See Cucumber Vinegar. This 
 is a very favorite sauce with lamb or mutton- 
 cutleis, Mewed rump-steaks, &c. &c.: when 
 made for tlie latter, a third part of sliced 
 onion is sometimes fried with the cucumber. 
 
 CUCUMBERS AND ONIONS, SLIC- 
 ED. Cut full-grown cucumlx-rs into slices 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, and slice 
 some onions thin; then lay them into a dish 
 together, and strew salt over them ; cover 
 them" with another dish, and let them re- 
 main for twenty-four hours. Put them in- 
 to a cullender to drain, then into a large jar, 
 and ]x)iir over diem boiled vinegar, diree 
 successive days; the last time of boiling the 
 vinegar add pepper and ginger, pour it over 
 them hot, and closely cover diem when cold. 
 
 CUCUMBER MANGOES. Cut a long 
 narrow piece out of die sides of large Tur- 
 key cucumbers, scoop out the seeds, and 
 with a ]>art of diem mix some mustard seed, 
 shred garlic, and grated horse-radish; stuff 
 the space as full as it will admit of, and re- 
 place the piece which was cut off; bind 
 them with a thread; |Mit over them hot 
 vinegar three successive da\s, and boil with 
 it the last time pepjier, flour of mustard, 
 and some salt; put them into jars, and pour 
 over them the lx>iling vinegar, and when 
 cold, cover them closely. 
 
 CULLIS. (1) To a quart of gravy, put a 
 table-spoonful of thickening, or from one to 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, according to 
 tlie thickness you wish the gravy to \>e, into 
 a basin, with a ladleful of tlie gravy; stir it 
 quick; add the rest by degrees, till it is all 
 well mixed; then pour it back into a stew- 
 pan, and leave it by the side of the fire to 
 simmer for half an hour longer, that the 
 thickening may thoroughly incorporate with 
 the gravy, the stewpan being only half cov- 
 ered, stirring it every now and then ; a sort 
 of scum will gather on the top, which it is 
 best not to take off till you are ready to 
 strain it through a tamis. Tuke care it is 
 neither of too pale nor too dark a color; if 
 it is not thick enough, let it stew longer, till 
 it is reduced to die desired thickness; or 
 add a bit of glaze, or portable soup to it, 
 if it is too thick, you can easily diin it with 
 a spoonful or two of warm broth, or water 
 When your sauce is done, stir it in the ba- 
 sin you" put it into once or twice, while it is 
 cooling. 
 
 CULLIS. (2) Lay over the bottom of a 
 stew.an as much lean veal aa will cover
 
 CU R 
 
 61 
 
 CUR 
 
 it an inch thick; then cover the veal with 
 some slices of undressed bacon (<jammon if 
 the best), three onions, three bay leaves, 
 some sweet herbs, two blades of ui:ice, and 
 three cloves. 1'ut on the lid of die stewpan, 
 and set it over a ."low lire; lint when the 
 juices conic out, let tlu-tirc he a little quick- 
 er. When the nic.it is of a nice brown col- 
 or, fill the stew|ian with ijood beef broth, 
 boil anil skim it, then let it simmer fir an 
 hour; :nM a little water mi\i 1 with as 
 much tli.nr as \\ill make it properly thick; 
 boil it hall' an hour, and strain it. You 
 uiuy keep this cnllis a week. 
 
 CULLIS, A FAMILY ONE. Roll a 
 piece ol'hutter in tlour, and stir it in a stew- 
 pan till the Hour is of a tine yellow color. 
 Tben put in some thin broth: a little gravy, 
 a glass of white, wine, a bundle of sweet 
 herbs, two cloves, a little nutmeg or mace, a 
 few mushrooms, [tepper and salt. Let it 
 Mew an hour over a slow tire, then skim all 
 the fat 'clean off, and strain it tlirough a 
 sieve. 
 
 CULLIS, WHITE. Take a piece of 
 
 veal, cut it into small hits, with some thin 
 slices of ham, and two onions, each cut into 
 four; moisten it w itli broth, seasoned with 
 mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, green onions, 
 three cloves, and so let it stew. Being 
 stcweil, take out the meat and roots with a 
 skimmer, put in a few einmlis of bread, and 
 let it >te\v .-oftly ; take the white of a fowl, 
 or two ( -hit-kens, ami put it into a mortar; 
 bein<; well pounded, mix it in the cnllis, but 
 it inii-i not lil, anil the. cnllis must be very 
 white; but if not white enough, pound two 
 dozen of sweet almonds blanched, anil put it 
 into the cnllis; then \i'i\ a s;las of milk, ami 
 add it to the rullis; let it IK' of a good fla- 
 vor, and strain it off; then put it into a 
 small kettle, and keep it warm. It may be 
 used tor white loaves, crust of white bread, 
 and biscuits. 
 
 \COA. Put five ounces of thin- 
 cut Seville oiaiitie-ptfl, that 1ms been dried 
 and poiindi-d. or, which is still better, of 
 the fi.-h peel of a fresh shaddock, which 
 may ! Um^ht at the orange and lemon 
 shops in the. Ix-^iiiiiin^ of .March, into a 
 iji MI t nf the finest and cleanest rectified 
 spirit; after it has been infused a fortnight, 
 strain it, and ad.l a i|iiart of sirup and filter. 
 Sec the following receipt. 
 
 (I liACOA; HOW TO MAKK A 
 
 To a pint of the clta 
 n ctilied spirit, add two di acinus 
 and a half of the >wect oil of orange-peel; 
 shake ii up: (li--,,Ue :i pound of i;ood lump 
 sugar in a pint of cold water; nuke this in- 
 6 
 
 to a clarified simp, which add to the 
 spirit: shake it up, and let it stand till the 
 following day: then line a funnel with a 
 piece of muslin, and that with filtering- 
 |Ki|>er, and filter it two or three- times till it 
 is quite bright. This li<|ii<.r is an admira- 
 ble cordial ; and a tea-spoonful in a tumbler 
 of \\;iti'i- is a very refreshing summer drink, 
 and a great improvement to punch. 
 
 CURDS AND CREAM. (1) With 
 about half a table-spoonful of rennet, turn 
 two quarts of milk just from the cow ; drain 
 off the whey, and fill a mould with the curd ; 
 when it has stood an hour or two, turn it 
 out. Strew colored comfits over it, sweeten 
 some cream, mix grated nutmeg with it, 
 and pour it round the curd. 
 
 CURDS AND CREAM. (2) Put two 
 
 quarts of new milk into the dish in which it 
 in to be served, and turn it with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of rennet; when the curd has come, serve 
 it with cream in a separate dish. 
 
 CURRANTS, AND OTHER FRUIT, 
 TO CANDY. Boil the fruit in clarified 
 sugar as for preserving ; take it out of the 
 sirup and drain it upon sieves ; sift over it 
 through a lawn sieve, till quite white, pound- 
 ed loaf sugar. Place them in a cool oven, 
 and turn and dust them with sugar till dry. 
 
 CURRANT FRITTERS WITHOUT 
 EGGS. Stir into half a pint of mild ale, 
 as much flour as will make it into a thick 
 I sitter ; add a little sugar and a fev/ currant* ; 
 beat it up quickly, and with a spoon drop 
 it into boiling lard. 
 
 CURRANT MARMALADE. Take 
 
 some ripe red currants, pick (hem, and 
 squeeze out the juice from some of them ; put 
 to it some juice of raspberries ; then put to 
 this the whole currants, boil them gently; 
 and wlien they begin to break, put in an 
 equal weight of sugar boiled to candy height ; 
 Ixiil them together, mash them as they boil ; 
 skim them, put in some rose water, and 
 when it becomes ag thick as marmalade, put 
 it into pots. 
 
 CURRANT PUDDING. See Pvd- 
 
 ding. 
 
 CURRANTS FOR TARTS. Gatlicr 
 
 the fruit perfectly dry, and before it be too 
 ripe, pick it from the stalks, and put it into 
 clean, dry, w ide-monthcd bottles; if the 
 flavor of raspberries is approved, some may 
 be added with tlie currants ; tie tightly over 
 each Ixitilc a piece of sound bladder previ- 
 ously soaked in water; set tliem into a pan 
 of cold water with a little straw at the hot-
 
 CUR 
 
 62 
 
 CUR 
 
 torn, and a little between the Ixmlcs ; put 
 them on the fire, and when they begin to 
 simmer, keep them in tli;it slate alx>ut three- 
 quarters uf an hour, but they must not be 
 alloued td boil; take the pan oft" the fire; 
 the bladders will be raised, but will fall soon 
 after, anil sink into the mouth of the bottle;- ; 
 in an hour, take them out, and tie strong 
 paper over each, and set them in a dry cool 
 place. The bottles may be placed in a 
 bottle rack with the neck downwards. 
 Damsons, cherries, and gixiselxjrries, may 
 be done in this way; any sort will keep for 
 a \eai-. Cut off the stalks of the cherries, 
 and top and tail tlic gooseberries. 
 
 CURRANT TART. See Tarts. 
 
 CURRIES. Cut fowls or rabbits into 
 joints, and wash them clean ; put two ounces 
 of butler into u stewpaa : when it is melted, 
 put in the meat, and two middling-si/cd 
 onions sliced, let them be over a smart fin- 
 till they are of a light brown, then put in 
 half a pint of broth; let it simmer twenty 
 minutes. Put in a basin one or two table- 
 spoonfuls of curry powder, a tea-spoonful of" 
 flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it 
 smooth with a little cold water, put it into 
 the stewpan, and shake it well about till it 
 boils: let it simmer twenty minutes longer; 
 then take out the meat, and rub tJie sauce 
 through a tamis or sieve: add to it two ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of creiim or milk ; give it a 
 boil up; then pour it into a dish, lay the 
 meat over it: send up the rice in a separate 
 dish. 
 
 CURRY. Cut a fowl into small pieces, 
 skin it, and let it blanch in cold water for 
 two hours; mince an onion very small, and 
 put it into a saucepan, with two ounces of 
 butter, and a large table-spoonful of flour 
 of rice stirred in by degrees; brown it well, 
 and when just boiling, add a quart of cold 
 water, with the pieces of fowl and a lar_;e 
 table-spoonful of curry powder mixed in it. 
 Lst it boil till the fowl be quite tender, and 
 just Ijefore serving, squeeze the juice of 
 half a lemon over the blade of a knife into 
 it. Vinegar will answer instead of tlie 
 juice; and if it be required very fine, in 
 place of rice, thicken it with an ounce of 
 sweet .dmo'.ids blanched and pounded. 
 
 CURRY BALLS for Mock Turtle, 
 Veal, Poultry, Made Dishes, &c. Are 
 made with bread-crumbs, the yolk of an 
 egg boiled hard, and a bit of fresh butter 
 about half as big, beaten together in a mor- 
 tar, and seasoned with curry powder. 
 
 CURRY, DRY. Skin and cut a fowl 
 into joints, or take off small cutlets from 
 
 the best end of a neck of veal ; fry in butter 
 three or four minced onions, and drain 
 them; then fry the fowl or veal, and dust it 
 with three tea-spoonfuls of curry powder, 
 and a quarter <il'a tea-spoonful of Cayenne. 
 1'ut tlie fried ine.it and onions into a stew- 
 pan, with a little salt, half a pint of milk, 
 and the BOM quantity of water; keep the 
 pan closely m\cred, and let it stew till |>er- 
 If-ctly tender, and ten minutes U-l'ore serv- 
 ing, add two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice. 
 
 CURRY, FISH. After a cod-fish, had- 
 dock, or mackerel has lain some hours in 
 salt, cut it into pieces, and stew it in water 
 sutiicient to cover it, into uhich a lariri- ta- 
 ble spoonful of curry powder has U-en mix- 
 ed. Fry in a quarter of a (xiund of" butter, 
 a shallot and two or three onions minced, 
 a little pepper and salt. When well brown- 
 ed, add it to the tish. am! >!ew all together 
 till it l)e quite tender. Sprats mak' 
 curry, but should be slewed in less water. 
 
 CURRY, INDIAN. Stew in two ounc- 
 es of butter, tor ten minutes, a teas|x>ont"ul 
 of Cayenne, and one of pepper, a di-.-sert- 
 spoonful of pounded coriander s. 
 small onions, and two heads of garlic min- 
 ced. Cut tlie fowl or rabbit into small 
 pieces, and cover it over with the curd of 
 sweet milk. Put die whole into a stew pan, 
 with as much boiling water as may I* de- 
 sired for sauce, and let it simmer till very 
 tender. 
 
 CURRY POWDER. (1) Put the follow- 
 ing ingredients in a cool oven all night, and 
 the next morning pound them in a marble 
 mortar, and nib them through a fine sieve. 
 Coriander-seed, three ounce*, turmeric, three 
 ounces, black pep|x-r, mustard, and ginger, 
 one ounce of each, allspice and less carda- 
 mons, half an ounce of each, cumin seed, 
 a quarter of an ounce. Thoroughly pound 
 and mix together, and keep them in a well- 
 stopped bottle. Tiii.se who are fond of 
 curry sauces, niav steep three ounces of t he- 
 powder in a quart of vinegar or white wine 
 lor ten days, and will get a liquor impreg- 
 nated with all tlie flavor of tlie powder. 
 
 CURRY POWDER. (2) Pound ex- 
 tremely fine, in a mortar, six ounces of co- 
 riander seed, three ounces of pepper, one 
 ounce and a half of fennigreck seed, one 
 ounce of cumin seed, thi-ee ounces of tur- 
 meric, and three-quarters of an ounce of 
 Cayenne ; sift it through muslin, and put it 
 before the fire for four or five hours, stirring 
 it every now and then. Keep it in a bottle 
 with a glass stopper. 
 
 CURRY OF VEAL, FOWL, &c. Fry
 
 cu s 
 
 63 
 
 cus 
 
 diced veal, rabbit, fowl, or sweetbreads, in a 
 good deal of butter, dusting it with tlnur. 
 Dust one side with curry powder; then turn 
 and dust the oilier, strewing oxer it tinely- 
 miiH-<il onions, taking care not to burn them. 
 When the meat is of a light brown, add 
 some white stock, with a little salt 
 till tender. Before serving, skim oil' tin- fat, 
 and add a tca-s|>oonfiil of lemon-juice or 
 vinegar. Rabbit, fowl, and sweetbreads 
 should be parboiled. 
 
 CUSTARD. (1) Sweeten a quart of thin 
 cream, or good milk, with pounded loaf 
 sugar; boil it with a bit of cinnamon, and 
 half the peel of a lemon ; strain it, and when 
 a little cooled, mix it gradually with the 
 well-beaten yolks of ten eggs; stir it over a 
 slow fire till it be pretty thick , pour it into a 
 basin, and add a table-spoonful of rose water, 
 and one of brandy; keep stirring it every 
 now and then till cold, and then put it into 
 ghsaes, cups, or a dish. It may be made 
 the day before it is used. 
 
 CUSTARD. (2) Boil a pint of milk 
 with lemon-peel and cinnamon ; mix a pint 
 of cream, and tin- yolks of five eggs, well 
 beaten ; when the milk tastes of the season- 
 ing, sweeten it enough for the whole ; pour 
 it into the cream, stirring it well; then give 
 the custard a simmer till of a proper thick- 
 ness. Do not let it lx>il; stir the whole 
 time one way; then season with a large 
 spoonful of peach water, and two tea-spoon- 
 fuls of brandy, or a little ratafia. If you wish 
 your custards to be extremely rich, put no 
 milk, but a quart of cream. 
 
 CUSTARDS. (3) Take six eggs, 
 leave out the whites; mix your eggs and 
 sugar together with some rose water ; then 
 boil a pint of cream, and put in the eggs 
 (the cream must not boil after the eggs have 
 been put in). Stir them to prevent them 
 from curdling. 
 
 < 1 <T\RDS, ALMOST). Blanch ami 
 pound fine, with half a gill of ran water, MX 
 
 atHtvm of swifl, H'i'l half an ounce of liitler 
 almonds; boil a pint of milk, as in Bahed 
 Costard swiften it wiili two ounces and a 
 half of sii<;ar; rub the almon<)s through a 
 B, with a pint of ci.'.iiu; strain 'lie 
 milk to the yolks of ei^iit em;-;, and the 
 whites of three well-U-aten ; Mir it over a 
 fire till it is of a good thickm-s*; take it olT 
 unl *iic it till nearly cold, to prevent 
 its curdling. .\. B. The above may be 
 baked in eii|>s, or in a dish, with a rim of 
 puff |u-fe |iiit round. 
 
 \KI>. APPLE. Take thirty 
 fine apple*, and pierce out the cores of tan 
 
 of them which are of an equal size; pare 
 and ti iin them nealK, anil l>il them in .six 
 ounces of sn^ar till pretty firm. Peel and 
 cut the remaining apples von. small, and put 
 them into the alxive sirup; shred the rind 
 of an orange, and mix with them; stir the 
 whole constautK to ore\ent their sticking 
 to the pan; when sufficiently done nil) the 
 marmalade through a horse-hair sieve. Pre- 
 pare the crust as In I' .re mentioned, lint drew 
 the sides a little higher; mix two sjxxinfuls 
 of apricot marmalade with that of your 
 apples, and then put four spoonfuls of it into 
 the custard; place tlie whole appk-s, (hav- 
 ing put apricot marmalade in the place of 
 the cores), and then add the remainder of 
 the apple marmalade, taking care not to 
 cover the apples with it. Finish as above. 
 At -the instant of serving it mask it with 
 apple jelly, apricot or quince marmalade, 
 cherry juice or verjuice. Garnish the top 
 of each apple with a cherry or verjuice-berry. 
 Serve this hot or cold. 
 
 CUSTARD, APRICOT GLAZED. 
 
 f'nt tuenty line apricots in half, take oat 
 the stones; toss up twelve apricots in four 
 ounces of powder-sugar, and place them in 
 a cream according to the directions for 
 apple custard; bake and glaze as therein 
 directed. Put a glass of water and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of powder-sugar with the 
 rest of the fruit into a preserving-pan ; when 
 die sirup is properly reduced, take the skin 
 from the apricots and arrange them in the 
 custard; garnish each half apricot with a 
 kernel, and when ready to serve, pour the 
 sirup on it. Serve Iwt or cold. 
 
 CUSTARD, BAKED. (1) Boil a 
 
 pint of cream with mare and cinnamon; 
 when cold, take tour eggs, bavin;; out Iwo 
 of the whites, a little rose and orange-flower 
 water, a little white wine, nutmeg, and 
 sugar to your taste ; mix them well together, 
 and bake them in china cups. 
 
 CUSTARD, BAKED. (2) Boil in a 
 pint of milk, a few coi iiuidnr seeds, a little 
 cinnamon and lemon-peel; sweeten with 
 tour ounces of loaf sugar, and mix wilh it a 
 pint of cold milk; Ix-at well eii;lit eggs for 
 ten minutes, and add the other in^iedicnt*; 
 [XHir it from out- jin into another six or 
 eight times, strain it through a sieve, and 
 let it stand some time; skim off the froth 
 from the top, till it in earthen cups, and 
 liake them immediately in a hot oven, give 
 t hem a good color ; about ten minutes will 
 do them. 
 
 CUSTARD, BOILED. (1) Boilinapint 
 
 of milk, five minute-, lemon-peel, coriunders, 
 anil cinnamon, a small quantity of each,
 
 cus 
 
 64 
 
 cus 
 
 half a dozen of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 pounded, and four ounces of loaf sugar: mix 
 it with a pint of cream, the yolks of ten eggs, 
 and the whites of six, well-beaten; pass it 
 through a hair sieve, stir it with a whisk 
 over a slow fire till it begins to thicken, re- 
 move it from the fire, and continue to stir 
 it till nearly cold ; add two table-spoonfuls 
 of brandy, fill the cups or glasses, and grate 
 nutmeg over. 
 
 CUSTARDS, BOILED. (2) Put a 
 quart of new milk into a stewpan, with the 
 peel of a lemon cut very thin, a little grated 
 nutineg, a bay or laurel leaf, and a small 
 stick of cinnamon; set it over a quick fire, 
 but be carefiil it does not boil over: when it 
 boils, set it beside the fire, and simmer ten 
 minutes ; break the yolks of eight, and the 
 whites of four eggs into a basin ; beat them 
 well ; then pour in the milk a little at a 
 time, stirring it as quick as possible- to pre- 
 vent the eggs curdling; set it on the fire 
 again, and stir it well with a wooden spoon ; 
 let it have just one boil ; pass it through a 
 tani Is, or fine sieve: when cold add a little 
 brandy, or white wine, as may be most 
 agreeable . to the eater's palate. Serve up 
 in glasses, or cups. Custards for baking 
 are prepared as above, |)assed through a 
 fine sieve; put them into cups ; grate a little 
 nutmeg over each: bake them about fifteen 
 or twenty minutes. 
 
 CUSTARD, COMMON. Boil a pint 
 of milk with a bit of cinnamon and two or 
 three laurel leaves; mix with one table- 
 spoonfnl of flour, or potato flour, two and a 
 half of cold milk, put it into a lawn sieve, 
 and pour the boiling milk upon it; let it 
 run into a basin, mix in by degrees the well- 
 beaten yolks of three eggs ; sweeten, and 
 stir it over the fire for a few minutes to 
 thicken. 
 
 CUSTARDS OR CREAMS, TO ORNA- 
 MENT. Whisk for one hour the whites of 
 two eggs together with two table-spoonfuls 
 of raspberry, or red currant sirup or jellv ; 
 lay it in any form U|x>n a custard or cream, 
 piled up to imitate rock. It may be served 
 in a dish with cream round it. 
 
 CUSTARD, DURHAM. To a pint of 
 cream add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, 
 and about a third of a pint of mild strong 
 ale; sweeten, and stir it over the fire till it 
 nearly boils, then |x>ur it into a dish, in the 
 bottom of which is laid thin toasted bread, 
 cut into square bits. 
 
 CUSTARD OF FRESH FRUIT. 
 Have ready a tin or copper mould, and line 
 it completely with paste, taking care that it 
 
 takes all the form of the mould. Then take 
 a sufficient quantity of apricots, peaches, 
 plums, or any otlier fruit you please ; and 
 having taken out the stones, seeds, and stalks, 
 mix the fruit up with powder-sugar; put it 
 into the crust, and bake it in a hot oven. 
 When ready for table, mask it with the 
 sirup and kernels, blanched and cut in 
 halves. 
 
 CUSTARD, LEMON. (1) Boil two 
 
 glasses of white wine, half a pint of water, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of brandy ; when 
 nearly cold, add the grated peel and juice 
 of two lemons, with half a pound of pounded 
 loaf sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of six 
 eggs; stir it over a slow fire till it thickens, 
 pour it into a basin, and stir now and then 
 till cold; put it into a dish, or cups, with 
 sifted loaf sugar over the top. 
 
 CUSTARD, LEMON. (2) Put the 
 juice of four lemons, with three ounces of 
 pounded loaf sugar, into a deep dish. Boil 
 the grated peel of one lemon and two ounces 
 of pounded loaf sugar in a quart of cream, 
 and pour it over the juice and sugai. It 
 will keep for four days. 
 
 CUSTARD, ORANGE. Sweeten the 
 strained juice of ten oranges with (xnmded 
 loaf sugar, stir it over the fire till hot, take 
 off the scum, and when nearly cold add to it 
 the beaten yolks of twelve eggs, and a pint 
 of cream; put it into a saucepan, and stir 
 it over a slow fire till it thickens. Serve in 
 cups or a dish. 
 
 CUSTARD, RICE. Mix a pint of 
 milk, half a pint of cream, one ounce of sift- 
 ed ground rice, five or six bitter almonds, 
 blanched and pounded with two table-spoon- 
 fills of rose water; sweeten with loaf sugar, 
 and stir it all together till it nearly boils ; 
 add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs; 
 stir, and let it simmer for alxnit a minute; 
 pour it into a dish, or serve it in cups, with 
 sifted loaf sugar over the top. 
 
 CUSTARD, TURKEY. Put a txmnd 
 and a half of good rice into cold water over 
 the fire, and when it boils, take it off and 
 drain it well ; then put it into a large sanre- 
 |wn, with twelve glasses of good milk, a 
 pound of butter, the same of sugar, on which 
 have been rasped the peels of four oranges 
 or cedrats, and a grain of salt. Put the 
 saucepan over a moderate fire to swell the 
 rice, taking care that none of die grains 
 burst; stir it a little, and when done, add 
 to it two pounds of dry currants, the yolks 
 of twelve eggs, and some spoonfuls of Chan- 
 tilly cream; after which mix in the twelve 
 whites whipped firm. Prepare the crust in.
 
 DAM 
 
 65 
 
 DE V 
 
 the usual way ; bake it in a moderate oven 
 two hours and a half; when ready for table, 
 brown il with a salamander. 
 
 CUSTARD, TURNING OUT. Mix 
 
 with tin; well-beaten yolk* of four e<jgs a 
 pint of new milk, half an ounce of isinglass 
 dissolved, or enough of calf s-fcet stock to 
 stiffen it, and two laurel leaves; sweeten 
 with pounded loaf sugar, and stir it over a 
 elo\v tire till it thickens; pour it into a 
 basin, and stir it till a little cooled, then 
 pour it into cups to turn out when quite cold. 
 Heat the. yolk* of two eu'.rs with a little 
 cream; add it to nearly li.ilf a [xnind of 
 brown sugar burnt ; .-train it through a 
 sieve, and wlien cold pour it round tile cus- 
 tards. 
 
 I). 
 
 1) \MS()\S BOTTLED. Gather tliem 
 
 on a dry day before tliev are ripe, when they 
 have ^it-t lurm-.! their color. 1'ut them in 
 \vide-iMoutln-d bottles, cork them close, and 
 let them stand a fortnight ; then caivfullv 
 examine them, and if any of them are 
 mouldy or spitted, take them out of the bot- 
 tles, and cork the rest close. Put the bot- 
 nid, and they will keep good till the 
 spring. 
 
 l> \MSON DUMPLINGS. Make a 
 
 good hot paste crust, roll it pretty thin, lay il 
 in a ba-in, and put in as many damsons as 
 you plra.sc. Wet the ed^'e of the paste and 
 close it up ; l*l it in a cloth for an hour ; 
 (vnir melteii butter over it, i^-ate sugar round 
 e of the dish, and serve. 
 
 DAMSON JELLY. See Jelly. 
 
 I MM SON, OR OTHER PLUM 
 
 ('lli:i:si;. Take- damsons that have been 
 I without siijrar; |>a^ them through 
 a sieve, to take out the r-kins and stones. 
 To everv |)..iiiui of pulp of fruit put half a 
 pound of loaf su^ai , broke sm:ill; Ixiil them 
 together till it Ix-comes Miile stilt'; pom it 
 into t'Hir c. ,m. noil i/ed dinner plates, nib! led 
 with a little sweet oil ; pni it into ;i warm 
 dry, and uln-n quite firm, take il 
 from the plate, and cut it into any sha|>e von 
 choose. N. l'. I >.i m-on iheese w generally 
 used i 
 
 DAMSONS FOK WIVIT.R USE. 
 
 Gatliei ilit ,1.1-n-oii.- when jn-t ri|>c.and per- 
 .iinl ; till a two-<;;illon br.iudy kef;, 
 and pour oxer tuo|Mlii<ls ol'iii,,l;i:-ses; el, 
 tile k,'^ lii ink. ami turn it every day. 
 
 6* 
 
 DEER HORNS. Beat one white, and 
 
 .six yolks of c<;gs; mix them with live table 
 s[x>onfuls of pounded and silted loaf sugar, 
 the >aine quantity of sweet cream, ten sweet 
 almonds, blanched and pounded, the grated 
 peel of one lemon, and as much flour as will 
 make the whole into a paste sufficiently 
 thick to roll out. Then cut it with tins for 
 the purpose, into the form of horns, branch- 
 es, or any other shape, and throw them into 
 boiling lard. 
 
 DE VIL. ( 1 ) Score the leg of a roasted tur- 
 key, goose, or fowl; pepper and salt it well, 
 broil it, and pour over it the following sauce 
 made quite Imt: three table-spoonfuls of gra- 
 vy, one of melted butter, and one of lemon 
 juice, a large vv -iric-glass of Port wine, of 
 mustard, Chili vinegar, Harvey sauce, and 
 mushroom catchup, a lea-s|>oonful each ; a lit- 
 tle Cayenne and pep|x-r. The: devil may be 
 server! without a sauce, and lie more highly 
 seasoned. When this dish is to be served 
 cold, the fat being carefully removed from the 
 L'oose. it may be ornamented or covered with 
 cold jelly made as follows : Boil for five 
 hours in four quarts of water the bones of the 
 yyise, with three nicely cleaned calf's feet, 
 strain it, and when cold take oft' all the fat, 
 and boil the jelly with .some whole pepper, 
 ginger, and salt; add two ounces of dissolv- 
 ed isinglass, the juice of two lemons, and 
 the beaten whiles of three or (bur eggs; stir 
 it while it is ii|x>n the fire, and allow it to 
 Ixjil about ten minutes ; then run it through 
 a jelly-liag, and re|x.-at this till it becomes 
 quite clear. 
 
 DEVIL. (2) The gizzard and rump, or 
 legs, &c. of a dressed turkey, capon, or 
 gOOM, or mutton or veal kidney, scored, 
 peppered, salted, and broiled, sent up for a 
 relish, being m:ide very hot, has obtained 
 the name of a " devil." 
 
 DEVONS mm-; .IC.NKKT. (i> Turn 
 
 some new milk from the covv with a little 
 rennet ; sweeten som thick cream, add a 
 little founded cinnamon, make it scalding 
 hot, and when cold |x>ur il over il> < -nrd, 
 and put a little wine and sugar into the bot- 
 tom i if tin; dish. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. (2) Turn 
 some new milk, as for cheese cakes, in a 
 wide shallow dish ; when cold, pour over the 
 top a pint of rich cream mixed with pounded 
 loaf sugar, six dessert spoonful* of brandy, 
 and some grated nnim- _. 
 
 DEVONSIlim; WIIITK POT. Beat 
 up a pint of r-n am with four eggs, a little 
 >.ilt. some sliced nutmeg, and a good deal of
 
 DUC 
 
 66 
 
 DUC 
 
 sugar; then slice very thin, almost the; whole 
 of the crnm of a [jenny loaf ; put it into a 
 dish ; pour the e^s ;iml cream to it ; a 
 handful nf Sim rim raisins boiled, and a 
 little sweet butter : bake it. 
 
 DIGESTER. An iron boiler, with a 
 top to screw on, to prevent the steam from 
 escaping. 
 
 DRIPPINGS, TO CLARIFY. Put 
 
 your dripping into a clean saucepan over a 
 stove or slow fire ; when it is just going to 
 boil, skim it well, let it boil, and' then let it 
 stand till it is a little cooled; then pour it 
 through a sieve into a pan. O6*. Well- 
 cleansed drippings, and the fat skimmings 
 of die broth-pot, when fresh and sweet, will 
 baste everything as well as butter except 
 game and poultry, and should supply the 
 place of biitter for common fries, &c.; for 
 which they are cc|iial lo lard, especially it' 
 you rc|)oat the clariluag twice over. .V B. 
 If you keep it in a cool place, you may 
 presi;r\e it a fortnight in summer, and long- 
 er in winter. When you have done frying, 
 let the dripping stand a few minutes ;<> Mt- 
 tie, and then pour it through a sieve into a 
 clean basin or stone pan, and it will do a 
 second and a third time as well as it did 
 the first; only the fat you have fried fish in 
 must not be used for any other purpose. 
 
 DRIXK, COOLING. A palatable and 
 cooling drink may be made by pouring hot 
 water over slices of lemon ; when cold, to 
 be strained and sweetened. 
 
 DUCK. Mind your duck is well cleaned, 
 and wiped out with a clean cloth: for tile 
 stuffing, take an ounce of onion and half an 
 ounce of green sage; chop tliein very fine, 
 and mix them with two ounces, i. e. about 
 a breakfast-cupful, of bread crumbs, a bit 
 of butter about as big as a walnut, a very 
 little black pepper and salt, and the yolk of 
 an egg to bind it; mix these thoroughly to- 
 getlier, and put into the duck. From half 
 to three-quarters of an hour will lie enough 
 t.i rast it, uncording to the size: contrive 
 to have the feet delicately crisp, as some 
 people are very fond of them ; to do this 
 nicely you must have a sharp fire. 
 
 DUCK, TO P.OIL. Make a paste, al- 
 lowing half a pound of butter to a pound of 
 fl-iur. Truss a duck as for l>oiliiig; put in- 
 to the inside a little pcp|x>r and sill, one or 
 two sage leaves, and a little onion finely 
 minced; enclose the duck in the paste, with 
 a little jellied gravy. Boil it in a cloth, and 
 serve it with brown gravy poured round it. 
 
 DUCKS, TO CHOOSE. Tlrcir feet 
 
 should be supple, and they should 1* hard 
 and thick on the breast and belly. The feet 
 of a taine duck are thick, and inclining to a 
 dusky \cllo\\. The feet of a wild duck are 
 reddi.-h, and smaller than the tame ; they 
 should lie picked dry. Ducklings should be 
 scalded. 
 
 DUCK, DRESSED IN DIFFER KM' 
 \\"A VS. Take either a large duck, or two 
 ducklings, which truss like a fowl lor boil- 
 ing ; put it into a ]xit (just alxmt lar<Te 
 enough to hold the duck) with thin slices of 
 Uicon, a little stock, a glass of wine, pepper, 
 salt, onions, carrots, a head of celery sliced, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, two cloves, and a 
 ba\-leaf ; when done, take out the duck, 
 wipe the fat off very clean, and serve with 
 what sauce or ragout \ou choose, such as 
 sweetbreads, green-peas, turnips, chestnuts, 
 olives, cucumbers, or any sort of .-tewed 
 greens, according to the season. 
 
 DUCKS, GEESE, DRESSED, OR 
 HASHKD. Cut an onion into small dice; 
 put it into a stewpan with a bit of butter; 
 fry it, but do not let it get any color; put 
 as much boiling water into the stewpan as 
 will make sauce for the hash; thicken it 
 with a little flour; cut up the duck, and put 
 it into the sauce to warm; do not let it 
 boil; season it with pepper and salt, and 
 catchup. Divide the duck into joints; lay 
 it by ready; put the trimmings and stuffing 
 into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of 
 broth or water; let it lil half an hour, and 
 then rub it through a sieve; put half -an 
 ounce of butter into a stew pan; as it melts, 
 mix a table-s|y.unful of flour with it; stir it 
 over the fire a few minutes, tlien mix the 
 gravy with it by decrees ; as scion as it boils, 
 take oft the scum, and strain through a sieve 
 into a stewpan; put in the duck, and let it 
 stew very gently for ten or fil'i' en minutes, 
 if the duck IB rather under-roasted: if there 
 is any flit, skim it oil': line the dish you 
 serve it up in with sippets of bread either 
 fried or toasted. 
 
 DUCK OR GOOSE FORCED. Cut 
 
 the ifin.se o|X'ii at the back, and farefullv 
 take out the lx>nes, excepting those of tlie 
 legs and wiu^s. Take out all the meat from 
 tile l>ody, leaving the skin perfectly whole. 
 With tile meat |xHind three-<|uai leis of a 
 pound of lean and tender beef, add three 
 handfuls of grated bread, f-\\r well-beaten 
 e:;gs, and half a pint of rich .-ueet cream; 
 season with pepper, mace, and salt; mix it 
 all well together; let it Maud for half an 
 hour, and then put it into the ii'xise, which 
 sew up, and make it of as natural a form as 
 |X)ssible; but take care that it Ix; not t<x> 
 much stufied. Boil it for half an hour in
 
 DUC 
 
 67 
 
 DUM 
 
 k, and then put it into a (hit 
 
 tin baking-pan, with sonic fresh butter over 
 
 iind under it. Bake it in :in oven another 
 
 half IMMI-, and seiv it with the tallowing 
 
 Krown a tnMe-apooaftll <;|" butler 
 
 with flour, .idd alxiut n pint of the sto< k 
 
 in which ih goose has been Killed, three 
 
 ioiw, :w> tdbb-por>nfuls nf r;\; ers 
 
 M pi'-Ue. and a tew 
 
 small pickled onions; lx>il it alxmt a qirar- 
 ter of an hour, and just In-fore pouring it 
 user the goose, .-:tir in gradually half a pint 
 (ij'rivli eiean:. 
 
 IM'CK, HASHKD, Cut a duck in 
 pieces, and tlonr it; put in a stew; 
 
 liuli- I'ori \vine, shallots, chop|x-d 
 fine, salt, pc-pix-r. anil a liil of lemon ; Ixiil 
 this ; then put in the dnrk, toss it up, take 
 out the lemon, and serve with toa.-ted sippets. 
 
 DUCKS KOASTKD. Season them 
 with sage and onion shred, |x-p|x-r and salt ; 
 half an h-nir will roast them. (n.. 
 or onion sau, e. Always stew the 
 onion in a little water, as it prevents ils 
 i ml takes off Uie rawness of 
 them. 
 
 l>n K.TOSTI'W. (1) Cut one or two 
 
 duck-i into <|iiarlcrs; fry them a light brown 
 in liuttel ; pin them into a saucepan, with 
 a pint of gravy, a tea-<-npful of I'ort wine, 
 four onions whole, |x-p;x?r and some salt, a 
 Ixmch of | xi rs Icy, two sage leaves, a sprig 
 of winter savory, and sweet marjoram, 
 i'jiver (lie pan cl isely, and stew them till ten- 
 di i ; t.ike on I the herl wand pepper; skim it ; 
 if the sauce lie not MiliiricntK thick, mix w ill) 
 t A., t.il le-s|x>onfuls of it a little Iloiir, and 
 stir it into the saucepan ; lx>il it up, and 
 : the dish with the four onions. 
 
 1)1 CK.TOSTKW. (2) I'ulmloadmk 
 
 Home jx-pj-. i. .-.ill, a minced onion, and one 
 
 i'-o minced; lialf roast it; 
 
 lnownwith Im ' linlier, a talile- 
 
 F|H)iilMl iil'ii.mi ; add as mneli \\> 
 
 ui water as will half cover the duck, nixl 
 
 <jine | < IIJXT and salt; put in the duck, a.nl 
 
 '. l'ir li.ill 
 
 an hour, .-tin i-:^ il now and then. I'or a 
 varii l\ . a d ./. i 'I niiddling^bnd onions 
 may ! su!i>lit;ileii lor tlie |MMS, and stew- 
 ed tile Fame len^lli of time. Cold roa.-!e,l 
 dii'-k m.i\ ! die- -id exactly in 
 manner; and I., lia.-li il, cut it into joint.-, 
 nnd heat il ihoion^hK in utu\y, adding a 
 lilllc BO] . and a ;;i,ui!i of I'oit wine. 
 
 DKCK. \\ II, I). These l)iids.-houldlw 
 
 fat, the ( l.tw- small, reildisli and siippk'j if 
 
 .1, on o|N>ning tlie lx:ak they will 
 
 .nK-II disr.'.'ni-alile ; the lireast and rump 
 should l>e firm and he-.ny ; the flesh of the 
 hm-hird is the most delicate, though tlx; 
 rock iienendlv fetches the hiyln-t price. 
 Pick them dry, cut the \\ \n^< \ery clo-e to 
 (lie Nr(i\ . take off tlie necks, draw and singe 
 them, truss up the le^s and skewer them ; 
 and having rnliU-d them with tlie'ir livers, 
 spit, and roast them ; take them up with 
 the gravy in, and serve with lemons. 
 
 DICK, WILD, SALMIS OF. Cut 
 
 oil' the Ix-st parts of a couple of roasted wild 
 ducks, and put the rest of tlie meat into a 
 mortar, with six shallots, a little parsley, 
 some pep|x?r, and a liay-leaf, pound all these 
 ingredients loyelher well, and then put them 
 into a saucepan with four ladfesful of stock, 
 half a glass of white wine, the same of 
 broth, and a little grated nutmeg; reduce 
 : ihese to half, strain them, and having laid 
 the pieces on a dish, cover them with tlie 
 alxive : keep the whole hot, not boiling, un- 
 til wanted lor table. 
 
 DIMl'l l.\(;s, HARD. Mixasfora 
 ', paste, some flour with small beer or water, 
 and a little salt; roll them in balls rather 
 larger than an em; ; when the water boils 
 put them in: half an hour will Ixiil them; 
 currant.* may be added ; they are good boil- 
 ed with Ix-ef. They are eaten eitlier with 
 cold or melted butter. 
 
 DCMl'LIiVGS, HALF-HOUR. Mince 
 finely half a pound of suet, mix it with tlie 
 ! same proportion of grated bread, and a ta- 
 hle-s|M>ontid of tlonr, a quarter of a pound 
 of cm ranis, si. me suipir, a little grated lem- 
 on-|x-el, nutmeg, and three uell-lx-aten eggs; 
 roll the mixture into round Udls, tie them 
 in bits, of linen, and lx>il them for half an 
 hour. Serve w ith melted butter and 
 [xmied over them. 
 
 IH'.M1'I,I.\(;S, NORFOLK. With a 
 pint of milk, two egg*, a little salt, and 
 .-ome. lloiir, make a Latter; drop this in 
 -mall ijiiantilies into a pot of boiling w 
 they will Ix; boiled in three minutes; throw 
 them into a sieve or cullender to drain. 
 
 IH'MI'l.l.V; I'ASTE. Make a paste 
 
 with (lour, milk, salt and yeast; let it stand 
 sometime in a warm place to ti-nnent; then 
 cut the pa-le into piecea of wh.ii !/ MHI 
 i please, and Ixiil them a good while; let 
 them cool; then cut each into two, and 
 Hk them in milk, sugar, and lemon-|x>el, 
 alxmt an hour, and drain and tlonr them fit 
 for fiving; or, yon may dip them in oil or 
 inched Uitter to broil, lusting with the 
 ..ey were, dipped ill.
 
 EEL 
 
 68 
 
 EEL 
 
 DUTCH CREAM CHEESE. Beat 
 
 the yolks of eight, and the whites of three 
 eggs, and mix them with a pint of butter 
 milk; add this to three quarts of boiling 
 milk just from the cow ; let it boil up once, 
 take it off the fire, cover it, and let it stand 
 a little that the curd may form ; then put it 
 into a small hair sieve, and press it witli ;i 
 weight for twenty-four hours, when it may- 
 be turned out. It is eaten with cream and 
 sugar. 
 
 DUTCH FLUMMERY. (1) Boil, 
 with a pint of white wine, some sugar, the 
 juice of two, and the peel of one lemon, a 
 stick of cinnamon, and half an ounce of dis- 
 solved isinglass; strain, and mix it with the 
 well-beaten yolks of seven eggs, stir it over 
 the fire till it simmer, but do not allow it to 
 boil ; stir it till quite cold, and put it into a 
 shape. 
 
 DUTCH FLUMMERY. (2) Boil for 
 ten minutes, in half a pint of white wine, and 
 the same proportion of water, the juice of 
 three, and the peel of two lemons, rather 
 more dian a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, 
 and an ounce of isinglass dissolved ; strain, 
 and mix it gradually with the beaten yolks 
 of five eggs ; put it again over the fire, and 
 stir it for live minutes; stir it till cold, and 
 put it into a shape. 
 
 E. 
 
 ECHAUDE'S. Lay a quartern of flour 
 on a pasteboard or slab, make a hole in tlie 
 centre, in which put an ounce of salt, and a 
 little' water to dissoUe it, a pound of butter, 
 twenty eggs; mix the two latter well to- 
 gether, then the flour; work it thoroughly 
 witli your hands, if it be very firm add more 
 eiru's. When perfectly smooth, sprinkle a 
 cloth with flour, lay the paste in it, and set 
 it in a cool place for ten or twi-lxe hours. 
 The next day heat about three quarts of 
 water, and having cut your paste into small 
 pieces, about an inch square, and having 
 floured each, put them into hot but not boil- 
 ing water, shake the kettle the instant after 
 you have thrown them in, and as they rise. 
 if they are firm to the touch, they are suf- 
 ficiently done, and must be taken out of the 
 saucepan, and thrown into cold water; let 
 them remain two or three hours ; then drain, 
 and leave them again for three hours or 
 more, and then bake them for about twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 EELS AND SOLES, STEWED Wio- 
 GY'S WAY. Take two pounds of fine sil- 
 
 ver eels: the l>est are those that are rather 
 more than a half-crown piece in circumfer- 
 ence, quite fresh, full of life, and " as brisk 
 AS an eel:" wash them in several different 
 waters, and divide them into pieces alwiit 
 four inches long. Some cooks, dredge them 
 with a little flour, wipe them dry, and then 
 egg and crumb them, and fry them in drip- 
 pings till they are brown, and lay tliem to 
 dry on a hair sieve. Have ready a qirart 
 of good beef gravy; it must be cold when 
 you put tlie eels into it : set tliem on a slow- 
 fire to simmer very gently for about a quar- 
 ter of an hour, according to the si/e of the 
 eels; watch them, that they are not done 
 too much ; take them carefully out of the 
 stewpan with a fish-slice, so as not to tear 
 their coats, and lay them on a dish alx>ut 
 two inches deep. 
 
 EELS BAKED. Skin and clean some 
 eels; take a shallow pan, and cut the eels in 
 lengths according to tlie depth of tlie pan ; 
 put them in, letting them stand upright in 
 it; the pan should be filled; put in a little 
 water, some salt, pepper, shallots cut small, 
 some sweet herbs, and a little parsley cut 
 small ; set them in the oven to l>ake ; when 
 they are done take the liquor that conies 
 from them, put it into a saucepan, and thick- 
 en it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 and a little white wine. 
 
 EELS BOILED. Small ones are pre- 
 ferable. Curl and put them on in lioilhig 
 salt-and-water, with a little vinegar. Gar- 
 nish with parsley. Sauce ; parsley and 
 butter. 
 
 EELS COLLARED. Take an eel, and 
 cut it open ; take out the bones ; cut oft' the 
 head and tail; lay llie eel flat, and shred 
 sage as fine as possible; mix with black 
 pepper pounded, nutincL' urated, and salt; 
 lay it all over the eel: mil it up hard in a 
 cloth; tie it up tight at each end; then set 
 over the fire some water, with pepper and 
 salt, five or six cloves, three or four blades 
 of mace, a bay-leaf or two; boil these uiih 
 the bones, head, and tail, well ; then put in 
 the eel, and boil it till it is tender; then take 
 it out, and boil the liquor, and when it is 
 cold, put it to the eel ; do not take off the 
 cloth till you use them. 
 
 EELS FRIED. Cut tliem into pieces 
 of three or four inches long, and then score 
 across in two or three places; season them 
 with pepper and salt,and dust tliem w ith flour, 
 or dip them into an egg U-at up, and sprinkle 
 them with finely-grated bread crumbs ; fry 
 them in fresh lard or dripping. I-et them 
 drain and dry upon the back of a sieve be- 
 fore the fire. Garnish witli parsley. Sauce ;
 
 EEL 
 
 69 
 
 EGG 
 
 melted butter, and lemon pickle. If small, 
 they may be curled and fried whole. 
 
 EEL PIE. Take eels alxnit half a [xmnd 
 each; cut them into pieces three inches lout:. 
 season them with pepper and salt, and till 
 your dish. Add a gill of water or veal 
 broth, cover it with paste, rub it over with a 
 paste-brush dipped in yolk of egg, ornament 
 it with some of the same paste, bake it an 
 hour; and when done, make a hole in the 
 centre, and pour in the fallowing sauce 
 through a tunnel: the trimmings boiled in 
 half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with pep- 
 per anil salt, a table-spixmful of lemon-juice, 
 and thickened with flour and water, strained 
 through a tine sieve: add it boiling hot. 
 
 EELS POTTED. Bone them; season 
 them uell n|>on both sides with pepper, salt, 
 a little mace, and Jamaica |>epper; let them 
 lie for six hours, then cut them into small 
 pieces, and pack them close into a dish; 
 cover them with a coarse paste and bake 
 ili' in. When quite cold, take off the paste, 
 and pour over them clarified butter. 
 
 EEL SOUP. See Soups. 
 
 EELS STEWED. (1) Cut the eels 
 
 into pieces alxnit lour inches long; take two 
 onions, two shallots, a bunch of parsley, 
 tliMn. . two |M\ leaves, a little mace, black 
 and Jamaica pepper, a pint of good gravy, 
 of I'ort wine, and the same of vin- 
 egar, six ancho\ies liiui-i'il; let all boil to- 
 gether for ten minutes; take out the eels; 
 txjil the sauce till reduced to a i|iiart; strain 
 anil thicken it with a table-s|XMnfnl of floor, 
 uooth in a little cold water. Put 
 in the 11!-. and lx>il them till they are ten- 
 der. Eels may also be roasted with a coni- 
 
 KF.I.S STFAVED. (2) Cut tin eels 
 
 into pieei--, season well two pounds and a 
 half u ith salt and Mack |x-|>|>er, put an ounce 
 of batter into a stewpan with a large handful 
 
 , three or timr sa^ r e leaves, half an 
 onion . 'ii small, a little grated lemon-|>eel, 
 
 and anchovy chopjx-d ; put in tile eels 
 
 and |xmr over half a pint of water, stew 
 
 iiv for half an hour, shaking them 
 
 !K ; Ix-fore serving, add a little 
 
 grated nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 EELS SPITCHCOCKED. This tl>e/ 
 French cook* call the English way of dress- 
 ing eeL". Take two inid(llin^-si/.cil silver 
 eefc, scour tliem with salt, slit thorn on the 
 Uhrcide, and lake out the bones and wash 
 and wipe them niceJy: then cut them into 
 pieces alx.nt tliree inches long, and wipe 
 Uiern quite dry ; (Hit two ounces of butter 
 
 into a stewpan with a little minced parsley, 
 thyme, sage, pepper, ami salt, and a very 
 little chnpjwd eschalot ; set the slewpan 
 over the fire ; when the butter is melted, 
 stir the ingredients together, and take it off 
 tlie fire, mix die yolks of two eggs with them, 
 and dip the eel in, a piece at a time, and 
 then roll tliem in bread-crumbs, making as 
 much stick to tliem as you can ; then rub 
 the gridiron with a bit of suet, set it high 
 over a very clear fire, and broil your eels of 
 a line crisp brown. Dish them with crisp 
 parsley, and send up with plain butter in a 
 boat, and anchovy and butter. , 
 
 EGGS. (1) Eggs may be preserved for 
 twelve month-, in a sweet and palatable state 
 for eating in the shell, or using for salads, by 
 Ixiiling them for one minute; and when 
 wanted for use let tliem be boiled in the 
 usual manner: tha white may be a little 
 toucher than a new-laid egg, but the yolk 
 will show no difference. 
 
 EGGS. (2) Pour a gallon of water 
 over a pound of unslacked lime, stir it well; 
 tlw following day, pour off the clear water 
 into a jar, and put in the eggs as they are 
 laid. In this manner they will continue 
 perfectly good for six months or more. 
 
 There are so many different ways of 
 dressing eggs, that the recipes would almost 
 till a volume; we have, therefore, given such 
 as we esteem the best, and the most adapted 
 to the English taste. 
 
 EGGS AND BACON RAGOUT. 
 
 Boil half a dozen eggs for ten minutes; 
 throw them into cold water; peel them and 
 cut them into hahes; pound the yolks in a 
 marble mortar, with about an equal quantity 
 of the white mi-.it of dressed fowl, or \eal, a 
 little clio|i|x-d parsley, an anchovy, an escha- 
 lot, a quarter of an ounce of butter, a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom catchup, a little Cay- 
 enne, some bread-cmnibi, and a very little 
 Ix-atcu mace, or allspice; incorporate them 
 well togetlier, and till the halves of the 
 whites with this mixture ; do them over 
 witli (he yolk of an egg, and brown tliem in 
 a Dutch oven, and serve them on relishing . 
 rashers of bacon or ham. 
 
 ,/EGGS AND BREAD. Put half a hand- 
 ful of bread crumbs into a saucepan, with a 
 small quantity of cream, Kilt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg, and let it stand till die bread has 
 i ml n! -d all the cream ; then break ten egge 
 into it, and having Ix-aten them up together, 
 fry it like an omelet. , 
 
 EGGS AND CREAM. Boil half a pint 
 of cream till reduced to half the quantity; 
 then add eight eggs, season them with salt
 
 EGG 
 
 70 
 
 EGG 
 
 and pepper, toil them together, till the eggs 
 are partly hard ; pass ;i salamander over tlie 
 top, and serve. 
 
 EGGS A LA TRIPE. Cut into thick 
 round slices a dozen of hard-lx>iled eggs, 
 and put them into the following sauce: cut 
 three large white onions into dice, fry tliem 
 white in butter, and when nearly done, dust 
 them with flour, and moisten them with some 
 milk and a few spoonfuls of cream; keep 
 stirring with a wooden spoon, to prevent 
 their burning. When the sauce is done, 
 grate in a little nutmeg, season with a little 
 salt and pepper, and put iu the eggs. 
 
 EGG BALLS. Boil four eggs for ten 
 minutes, and put diem into cold water; when 
 they are quite cold, put the yolks into a 
 mortar with the yolk of a raw egg, a tea- 
 spoonful of flour, same of chopped parsley, 
 ns much salt as will lie on a shilling, and a 
 little black pepper, or Cayenne; rub them 
 well together, roll them into small balls (as 
 the\ suell in boiling); boil them a couple 
 of minutes. 
 
 EGGS BOILED, TO EAT IN THE 
 
 SHKLI., OR FOR SALADS. The fresher 
 laid the better: put them into boiling water; 
 if you like the white just set, about two 
 minutes boiling is enough; a new-laid egg 
 will take a little more; if you wish the yolk 
 to l set, it will take three, and to boil it 
 hard for a salad, ten minutes. A new-laid 
 egg will require boiling longer than a stale 
 one, by half a minute. 
 
 EGGS BOURGEOISE. Spread some 
 butter over the bottom of a dish, cover it 
 entirely with thin slices of crumb of bread, 
 on that lay thin slices of cheese, then eight 
 or ten eggs, season them with salt, pepper 
 and nutmeg, set the dish over a stove to cook 
 gently till done. 
 
 EGGS, BUTTERED. Beat and strain 
 
 ten or twelve egffs ; nut a piece of butter into 
 
 i i 
 
 a saucepan and keep turning it one way 
 
 till melted ; put in the beaten eggs, and stir 
 them round with a silver spoon till they be- 
 come quite thick. Serve them in a dish 
 upon buttered toast. They may be eaten 
 with fish, fowl, or sausages. 
 
 EGGS EN SURPRISE. Take a dozen 
 eggs, and make a small hole at each end of 
 every egg, through which pass a straw and 
 break the yolk ; then blow out the yolk care- 
 fully. Wash the shells, and having drained, 
 dry them in the open air ; mix the yolk of 
 an egg with a little flour to close one of the 
 holes of the shells, and when dry, fill half the 
 Dumber by means of a small funnel, with 
 
 chocolate cream, and the remaining six with 
 coffee or orange-cream ; close the other end 
 of your eggs, and put them into a saucepan 
 of hot water; set them on the fire, taking 
 care they do not boil ; when done, remove 
 ilie cement from the ends; dry, and serve 
 them on a folded napkin. 
 
 EGGS, FRIED. Eggs boiled hard, cut 
 into slices, and fried, may be served as a 
 second course dish, to eat with roasted 
 chickens. 
 
 EGGS FRIED WITH BACON. Lay 
 
 some slices of fine streaked bacon (not more 
 than a quarter of an inch thick) in a clean 
 dish, and toast them before the fire in a 
 cheese-toaster, turning diem when the upper 
 side is browned ; first ask those who are to 
 eat the bacon, if they wish it much or little 
 done, f. e. curled and crisped, or mellow 
 and soft: if the latter, parboil it first. Well- 
 cleansed dripping, or lard, or fresh butter, 
 are the best fats for frying eggs. Be sure 
 the frying-pan is quite clean ; when the fat 
 is hot, break two or three eggs into it ; do 
 not turn them, but, while they are frying, 
 keep pouring some of the fat over them with 
 a spoon ; when the yolk just begins to look 
 white, which it will in about a couple of 
 minutes, they are done enough; the white 
 must nut Inse its transparency, but, the yolk 
 be seen blushing through it: if they are 
 done nicely, they will look as white and 
 delicate as if they had been poached ; take 
 them up with a tin slice, drain the fat from 
 them, trim them neatly, and send them up 
 with the bacon round them. 
 
 EGGS FRIED, AND MINCED HAM 
 
 OR BACON. Choose some fine salt pork, 
 streaked with a good deal of lean ; cut this 
 into very thin slices, and afterward into 
 small square pieces; throw them into a 
 stewpan, and set it ever a gentle fire, that 
 they may lose some of their fat. When as 
 much as will freely come is thus melted from 
 them, lay them on a warm dish. Put into 
 ;i sieupan a ladle-full of melted bacon or 
 lard ; set it on a stove ; put in about a dozen 
 of the small pieces of bacon, then stoop the 
 stewpan and break in an egg. Manage this 
 carefully, and the egg will presently be done: 
 it will l>e very round, and the little dice of 
 bacon will stick to it all over, so that it will 
 make a very pretty appearance. Take care 
 the yolks do not harden ; when the egg is 
 thus done, lay it carefully in a warm dish, 
 and do i he others. 
 
 EGG FRITTERS. Pound a dozen 
 hard boiled eggs with a little cream, and a 
 quarter of a pound of beef marrow; then 
 pound half a dozen macaroons, some bitter
 
 EG G 
 
 71 ELD 
 
 almond*, a little sugar, and lemon-peel ; 
 mix these with the |x>unded e:. r gs, and form 
 them into fritters, dip them into a tauter 
 made with Huur, butter, salt, and lemon- 
 peel; fry them in very liot hird, sprinkle su- 
 g-ar oxer, and serve. 
 
 K< ;< iS FROTHED. Beat up the yolks 
 of einht eims ami tile whites of four (set 
 aside thr reiiiai'iiiii; whites) with a spoonful 
 of water, smile salt, sugar, and tile juice ofa 
 leui'in; fry this, and then put it on a dish; 
 whip the (i-Hir whites (which were set aside) 
 to :i t'.oih with sugar, and place it over the 
 %s; hake it in ,1 Dutch oven, or with 
 a hiu'h !. >\er lilted for tile purpose. 
 
 1'iiiiS, (Jl.VSS. Butter a dish, ami 
 break into it ;i pieee of butter nearly as large 
 as an e^: add a tea-<-iipfiil of cream, and 
 drop in f.mr or live eggs; put ujxm each a 
 little pep|x>r and salt, set the dish upon a 
 : x-rxe it xx lieu tin- e.'^s are firm, 
 which m i\ ! in ten or liftitMi minutes. 
 
 EG<; MARMALADE. (1) BlaMi-h and 
 pound with a little rose water, two ounces of 
 sxxectahnond';, the same of orange marmalade, 
 and fnir of citron ; add txio -pooufnls of bran- 
 dy, and when quite smooth, the beaten yoBu of 
 six and the whiles r>f two eggs, with a little 
 pounded loafsn^ar; put it into a saucepan, 
 and stir it till it t>eroines thick, then pour it 
 into a sh:i|>e. When quite cold, serve it, 
 turned out am! garnished with (lowers. 
 
 K<;<; MARMALADE. (2) clarify a pound 
 
 of sugar, keeping it rather thick ; when cool, 
 add to it the xolks of twenty ej;^--, which 
 should ! |>ei|.-ctl\ fi>T lioin the whiten, and 
 well stirred, Imt not lieaten; aet these on 
 
 tin ing continually tuitil it lioils, and 
 then eniiliiine to stir until sufficiently thiek ; 
 
 i.n -h mid arise, it need not } taken 
 off, a- the Ixiilini; and stirring uiU effectually 
 rem i\e it. ( >i.n'i.'i -ll.nuT water may be 
 added, if approved. 
 
 K(iiS. TO I'OACH. The cook who 
 wishes t.i disjilay her skill in poaching, 
 must endeavour to procure es^s that have 
 been laiil a couple of daxs those that are 
 i|ni'e new-laid ate .-o inilUx that, take :ill 
 the care yon can, your cookiii;; of them will 
 seldom procure xmi the piaix- of Ix-in^ a 
 prune puncher; you must haxi- I'le-ii ei-,-*, 
 or il is e;|iuillx uii|).<sil.le. The U-auly of 
 a p inched t^a is for the yolk to be seen 
 blushing t!irou<r|i the while, which shoulil 
 only IH- |ii>l - illicientlx hiudeneil, to form a 
 trail-pare!]- \e|| f,, r the egg. H^i 
 boiling water in a tea-kettle; pa-s a< much 
 of it throii-h .i rli-aii elolh as will half till a 
 Ktexv|>aii; bn jk the egg into a cup, and 
 
 when the water boib, remove the stewpan 
 from the stove, and gently slip the egg into 
 it ; it must stand till the xvhite is set ; then 
 put it oxer a very moderate fire, and as soon 
 a* the water boils, the egg is ready; take it 
 up with a slice, and neatly round off the 
 ragged edges of the xvhite; send them up on 
 bread to;isted on one side only, with or xvith- 
 out butter; or without a toast, garnished 
 with streaked bacon nicely fried, or j-lices 
 of broiled beef or mutton, anchoxii >. |n,rk 
 sausages, or spinage. The bread should 1 
 a little larger than the egg, and aliout a 
 quarter of an inch thick; only just u'ixc it a 
 yellow color: if you toast it brown, it will 
 get a bitter flavour; or moisten it by |xmr- 
 mg a little hot water upon it: some sprinkle 
 it with a few drops of vinegar, or of essence 
 of anchovy. 
 
 K(i(;s POACHED, WITH SAUCE OF 
 MINCED HAM. I'oach the eggs as before 
 directed, and take two or three slices of 
 lx>ilcd ham; mince it fine with a gherkin, a 
 morsel of onion, a little parsley, and |>epper 
 and salt ; stew all together a quarter of ail 
 hour; serve up your saiieealxiul half boiling; 
 put the e|,'<;s in a dish, squeeze over the juice 
 of half a .Seville orange, or lemon, and JXHIT 
 the sauce over them. 
 
 EGG PUNCH. Take a punch--la>.<, 
 and put into it a xvinc-gla.-s (if sirup of punch 
 (see that article), and the yolk of an egg; 
 Ix-at them together xvith a spoon, and then 
 fill up the glass with boiling water, stirring 
 a little as xou pour it in. 
 
 EGG TOAST. Put a glass of thick 
 cream, some sugar, two or three macaroons 
 |xinnded, w itli a fexv almonds, a little grated 
 lemon, give them a boil; then add the yolks 
 of eight and whites of three eggs, Ix-at the 
 whole up over a slow fire; and lay on very 
 thin slices of fried bread ; sprinkle sugar 
 over, and serve. 
 
 EGG WINE. Beat up an egg, mix with 
 it a spoonful of cold water ; set on the fire a 
 
 glass of xvhite wine, half a l:tss of water, 
 .-ii'/ar, and nutmeg. When it Ixiils, |x>ur a 
 little of it to the p^g by degree--, till the 
 whole is in, stirring it well; then return the 
 wliole into the saucepan, set it over a uentle 
 fire, stir it one way for a minute, not longer, 
 1 for if it boil, or the egg is stale, it will cm .lie ; 
 SWlll with toast. You may make it as above, 
 without xvarmiir^ the (_",'. and it xvill be 
 lighter on the stomach, though not so agree- 
 able to the palate. 
 
 ELDER Fl.mVI.K FRITTERS. 
 They are made whilst tlw elder flowers are 
 in blixuii ; and they should marinate three
 
 END 
 
 72 
 
 ESP 
 
 or four hours in brandy, sugar, orange-flower 
 water, and lemon-peel; when drained, dip 
 them in a good thick batter to fry, and serve 
 with rasped sugar, as in general. 
 
 ELDER ROB. Gather the elderberries 
 when quite ripe, put them into a stone jar, 
 tie a bladder or paper over the top, and 
 plan- the jar in a pan of water ; let it boil 
 till the berries are very soft; strain them 
 through a coarse cloth, and to every pint of 
 juice allow half a pound of good brown su- 
 gar; put it into a preserving-pan, stir it, and 
 when it boils, take off the scum, and let it 
 boil for one hour. 
 
 ELDER VINEGAR. Choose the elder- 
 flowers when just blown, lake away all the 
 stalks, and when the flowers are alx>ut 
 half dry, put them into a jar, and fill the jar 
 with \inegar, close it tight, and let it stand 
 in die sun for twenty days ; then draw it off, 
 press the flowers, and having filtered the 
 whole, bottle it; take care to keep the bot- 
 tles closely corked. 
 
 ELDERBERRIES. Can be made to 
 produce excellent wine, allowing to a ten- 
 gallon cask forty pounds of fruit, forty pounds 
 of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of tartar. 
 When elderberry wine is desired for a warm 
 cordial, it is made in the following manner: 
 Twenty-five pounds of fruit are to be boil- 
 ed for an hour, in eleven gallons of watci , 
 and along with it, tied in a piece of linen, 
 one ounce of allspice, and two of ginger; 
 forty pounds of sugar being put into a tub, 
 die boiling liquor is strained over it, pressing 
 the fruit quite dry ; a quarter of a pound of 
 crude tartar, or cream of tartar, is dieu 
 added to the liquid. When it has stood two 
 days in the tub, it may lie removed to the 
 cask, treated, as for sweet wuie, in the usual 
 manner, and bottled in March following. 
 When to be drank, a portion of it is heated 
 with some sugar, two or three cloves, and a 
 little nutmeg. 
 
 EM POT AGE. Put into a large sauce- 
 pan, three or four pounds of beef-steaks, a 
 knuckle of veal, and four old liens ; moisten 
 this quantity of meat with two ladlcsful of 
 broth ; set it on a stove, and let it boil till 
 properly reduced, taking care that none of 
 the meat burns, which would make the 
 empotage of too high a color ; fill up your 
 saucepan with broth, adding carrots, turnips, 
 and onions; let all lliese ingredients stand 
 over the fire for three hours and a half; then 
 strain the whole tlirough a silk sieve, that 
 it may be perfectly clear. 
 
 ENDIVE IN VELOUTE. Take off 
 all the outer leaves of your endive, and having 
 
 opened tlie hearts, put tliem into cold water 
 to wa>h them. In the meanwhile heat a 
 kettle of water, put in it a handful of salt, 
 then throw in the endive ; keep it constantly 
 under the water, to prevent their turning 
 black. As soon as the endive is tender, 
 drain, and then put it into cold water, and 
 when quite cold, drain it again ; press the 
 water out with your hands ; then chop it 
 small, and put it into a saucepan, with some 
 butler, sail, and pepper, stir it well, and 
 then add five spoonfuls of veloute, the same 
 of consomme; reduce it till pretty thick, and 
 then put it in a dish, with fried bread round 
 it. Endive may also be dressed with cream, 
 in which case, put two spoonfuls of flour into 
 it, and moisten it with cream. 
 
 ENDIVE IN GRAVY OF VEAL. 
 
 Wash and clean thoroughly ten or twelve 
 heads of fine endive, take off the outer leaves, 
 and blanch the heads in hot w ater ; throw 
 them into cold water, and then squeeze them 
 as dry as possible. Stew them in as much 
 gravy as will cover them; add a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pounded sugar, and a little silt . Wlien 
 perfectly tender, put in a little veloute sauce, 
 and serve quite hot. 
 
 ENTREE. There is no word precisely 
 equivalent to this in English. Any dish of 
 butcher 's meat, fowl, game, or fish, dressed 
 for the first course, is called an entree. 
 
 ENTREMET. There is no word equiv- 
 alent to this in English. All dishes of veg- 
 etables, jellies, pastries, salad, prawns, lob- 
 sterV, and, in general, everything that appears 
 iu the second course, except the roast, is 
 called an entremet. 
 
 ESCHALOT WINE. Peel, mince, and 
 pound in a mortar, three ounces of eschalots, 
 and infuse them in a pint of Sherry for ten 
 days; then pour off the clear liquor on three 
 ounces more eschalots, and let the wine 
 stand on them ten days longer. This is 
 rather the most expensive, but infinitely 
 the most elegant preparation of eschalot, 
 and imparts the onion flavour to soups and 
 sauces, for chops, steaks, or broiled meats, 
 hashes, &c. more agreeably than any : 
 it does not leave any unpleasant taste in 
 die moudi, or to die breath ; nor repeat, 
 as almost all odier preparations of garlic, 
 onion, &c. do. N. B. An ounce of scraped 
 horseradish may be added to die above, and 
 a little thin-cut lemon-peel. 
 
 ESPAGNOLE. Take an old fowl, and 
 about fourteen pounds of leg or shoulder of 
 veal ; chop the latter into pieces, and put it, 
 with very little water, into a large saucepan, 
 widi two carrots, three onions, a pound of
 
 FIL 
 
 73 
 
 FIS 
 
 ham, a few peppercorns, a small quantity of 
 fipice, and a clove of ;:irlic; 1ft this stew 
 ovi-r i moderate lire, shaking it freqne:iily, 
 till it Ix-co ini'S of a brown color, when you 
 m:iy :iilil to it :i snllicietit quantity of hot 
 water, to eome alxmt four inches :ilx>ve tlie 
 me.it. Set il bv llie side nf the stove tolxiil 
 gently, skimming when neei-ssary, till tlie 
 meat conies from tin; bones; then "train it 
 through ;i silk sieve, and set it by for use. 
 
 ! > - I : \ < T.. Take half a Ix.ttle of white 
 wine, half a glass of the best vinegar, the 
 jui.-e of two lemons, three ounces of salt, 
 half an ounce of whole ]x'pper, a little nut- 
 Hk".' and ina'-e. four cloves, four bay -leaves, 
 thyme, parsley, one small clove of garlic, ten 
 shallots, |xiundcd, and an o.mce of dry mush- 
 room-; put all these ingredients into an 
 earthen pan, over a brisk lire; when near 
 boiling, lessen the fire, and let it stand 
 on hot asiies (r six or seven hours; then 
 strain it through a coarse sieve, and after- 
 wards lilter it. Keep it in closely corked 
 i small quantity is sufficient to fla- 
 vour a dish. 
 
 P. 
 
 F V \( I K > \ETTE8. Put into a sauce- 
 pan, two ounces of flour, three of sugar, one 
 of butter, two of pounded almonds, some 
 
 iuii-|x-cl, two \-iiks-, and one whole 
 '', and half a pint of milk ; 
 licnts on the fire, and let them 
 .et likt; a cream; lin i-tins, or 
 
 moulds, with pnjf pa:-tc, till them with the 
 >n; place the moulds on a tin, and 
 h;ikc the/ancAonefte*in a brisk oven; when 
 about (I n- i , take them out, put 
 
 . sprinkle sn<,'ar over, and re- 
 place them in the OM-H to finish the baking. 
 
 V, Like a Fucking pig, should Ix- 
 : as soon as killed. When 
 ing, it is trussed, stuffed, and sjiit- 
 \\uy as, a hare: but they are 
 ring when of thf> size of a BOOM 
 lamb, u:id arc then roasted in quarters; the 
 liind-qir.irtcr is most esteemed. 
 
 They insist lie put down to a very quirk 
 either basted all the time they an- 
 d with utv 
 ,-tc it with butter, and 
 ; . and llour, till 
 
 c froth on it. 
 
 N. I'. We advise our friends to half 
 roast a fawn as soon aa they receive it, and 
 then main- a hash of it. 
 
 ;> M-nimn sauce with it. 
 
 FILBERT ROLLS. 
 7 
 
 Having peeled 
 
 h:\lf a pound of filberts, put them into a 
 
 pn-srmng p:ui over ;i moderate fire, and 
 stir them constantly with a spntnla until 
 the\ become e<|nally coloreil of a li^llt yel- 
 low: th'.'ii set them to cool. When cold, 
 jxiiiiid till-in with a little white of , 
 paste; then mix them with half a [xmnd of 
 Hour, the same of po\vder sii^nir, and the 
 yolks .if four or five eggs, ami then finish 
 tlie operation as directed for almond roUt. 
 Froth, and trace on the surtace an ear of 
 wheat, or anything else, with the point of a 
 knife: take care to dry them well in the 
 baking, that they may be crisp. Coarse 
 powder sugar may also be strewed over, be- 
 fore they are put in the oven. 
 
 FISH. We intert all the beat remark* 
 that various culinary authors have made 
 on FISH. 
 
 There is a general rule in choosing 
 most kinds of fish; if their gills are red, 
 their eyes plump, and the whole fi.-h stiff, 
 they are good; if, on the contrary, the gills 
 are pale, the eyes sunk, and the ti.sh flabby, 
 they are stale. The greatest care should 
 Ix' taken that the fish is properlv clean-Jtd 
 Ix-fore Ix-iiig dressed, but not washed be- 
 yond what is absolutely neces>arv for clean- 
 ing, as by perpetual watering, the flavour 
 is diminished. When clean, if the fish is 
 to be boiled, some salt, and a little vinegar 
 should be put into the water, to give it 
 firmness. Care should lie taken to ln.il the 
 fish well, but not to let it break. Cod, 
 whiting, and haddock are much Ix-tter fur 
 little salted, and kept fur a day. 
 
 There is "!':en a muddy smell and ta.-ie at- 
 tached to iVesh-water li.-h, which may Ixj 
 got rid of I iy soaking it, after it has been 
 thoroughly cleaned in strong salt and wa- 
 ter; or, if the fish is not too lai\'e, scald it 
 in the same; then dry, and die-:, it. 
 
 < 'are should l<e taken that the li.-h is put into 
 cold nater, anil allowed to do \er\ gently, 
 otherwise the outside will break before the 
 hi.-ide is done. 
 
 ( 'i imp lirh must be put into Ixtilii 
 and as soon as it boils up, a little cold 
 water should Ix. 1 put in, to check lhe<xr<-s- 
 si\e heat, and simmer il for a few minute!. 
 
 If the fish is not taken out of (In 1 water 
 the instant it is done, it will become wixil- 
 Iv; to ascertain when it is midy, the fish 
 plate on which it is drtwed may Ixj drawn 
 up, and if s'lilicientiv done, it will leau- the 
 bone. To keep hot . ajid to 
 
 prevent it from losing its color, the full 
 plate should be plan over the 
 
 lish-kettle, and a clean cloth put over the fish. 
 
 Small fish may be either nicely fried 
 plain, or done over with egg and bread 
 crumbs, and tlien fried. I'pon the di-n in 
 which the fish ie to be served, should be
 
 FI S 
 
 74 
 
 FIS 
 
 placwl a folded damask napkin, and upon 
 this put the fish, with the liver and roe; 
 then garnish tle dish with horse-radish, 
 parsley, and leinon. Fish is a dish which 
 is almost more attended to titan any other. 
 
 To fry or broil fish properly, after it 
 is well cleaned and washed, it should be 
 wrapped in a nice soft cloth, and when 
 perfectly dry, wetted with egg, and sprink- 
 led all over with very fine bread crumbs; it 
 will look still better to be done over with 
 egg and crumbs a second time. Then hav- 
 ing on the fire a thick-bottomed frying-pan, 
 with plenty of lard or dripping, boiling hot ; 
 put the fish into it, and let it fry tolerably 
 quick till it is done, and of a nice brown 
 yellow. If it is done before it has obtained 
 a nice brown color, the pan should be drawn 
 to the side of the fire, the fish carefully 
 taken up, and placed either upon a sieve 
 turned upwards, or on the under side of 
 a dish, and placed before the fire to drain, 
 and finish browning; if wanted particularly 
 nice, a sheet of cap paper must be put to 
 receive the fish. I-'ish fried in oil obtains a 
 much finer color than when done in lard or 
 dripping. Butter should never be used, as 
 it gives a bad color. Garnish your dish 
 with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or with 
 fried parsley. 
 
 When fish is to be broQed, it must be 
 seasoned, floured, and done on a very clean 
 gridiron; which, when hot, should be rub- 
 bed over with suet, to hinder the fish from 
 sticking. It should be broiled over a very 
 clear fire, to prevent its tasting sjnoky, and 
 great care must be taken not to scorch it. 
 
 FISH. This department of the busi- 
 ness of the kitchen requires considerable ex- 
 perience, and depends more upon practice 
 than any other. A very few moments, more j 
 or less, will thoroughly spall fish ; which, to 
 be eaten in perfection, must never be put j 
 on the table till the soup is taken off. 
 
 So many circumstances operate on this 
 occasion, that it is almost impossible to 
 write general rules. 
 
 There are decidedly different opinions, 
 whether (Lsh should be put into cold, tepid, 
 or boiling water. 
 
 Fish must by no means be allowed to re- 
 main in the water after it is boiled ; if 
 therefore it should be ready before it can be 
 gent to table, it must be dished, the cover 
 put on, and a cloth put over it. The dish 
 is then to be set across the fish-kettle. 
 
 Fish should be fried over a clear quick 
 fire ; and with dripping, or hog's lard in 
 preference to butler. The pan should be 
 deep; and to ascertain that it is clean, a 
 little fat is first fried in it, poured out, and 
 the pan wiped with a clean cloth; as much , 
 dripping or lard is then put in as will en- 
 
 tirely cover the fish. When it is boiling 
 hot, and begins to smoke, the fish is put in ; 
 if small, they may be turned in three or four 
 minutes, by sticking in a fork near the head 
 with one hand, and with the other support- 
 ing die tail with a fish-slice. When they 
 arc done, they should be laid before the 
 fire upon an old soft towel, and turned now 
 and then till they are dry upon both sides ; 
 or they may be put upon a large sieve, 
 turned upwards, and which is kept for the 
 purpose, or put on the under side of a dish. 
 
 The fire for broiling fish must be very 
 clear, and the gridiron perfectly clean, 
 which, when hot, should be rubbed with a 
 bit of suet. The fish, while broiling, must 
 be often turned. 
 
 Several respectable fishmongers and ex- 
 perienced cooks have assured the editor, 
 that they are often in danger of losing dieir 
 credit by fish too fresh, and especially tur- 
 bot ami cod, which, like meat, require a 
 certain time before they are in the best con- 
 dition to be dressed. They recommend 
 them to be put into cold water, salted in 
 proportion of about a quarter of a pound of 
 salt to a gallon of water. Sea-water is 
 best to boil sea-fish in. It not only saves the 
 expense of salt, but the flavor is better. Let 
 them boil slowly till done; the sign of which 
 is, that the skin of the fish rises up, and 
 tin- e\es turn white. 
 
 It is die business of the fishmonger to 
 clean them, &c. but the careful cook will 
 always wash them again. 
 
 (iiunish with slices of lemon, finely scrap- 
 ed horseradish, fried oysters, smelts, whit- 
 iiiljs or strips of soles. 
 
 The liver, roe, and chitterlings should be 
 placed so that the carver may observe them, 
 and invite the guest to partake of them. 
 
 Fish, like meat, requires more cooking 
 in cold than in warm weather. If it be- 
 comes FROZEN, it must be thawed by the 
 means we have directed for meat. 
 
 Fish are plenty and good, and in great 
 variety, in all tlie towns and cities on the 
 extensive coast of the United States. Some 
 of the interior towns are also supplied with 
 fish peculiar to the lakes and rivers of this 
 country. 
 
 All "kinds of fish are best sometime before 
 they begin to spawn ; and are unfit for food 
 for sometime after they have spawned. 
 
 Fish, like animals, are fittest for the ta- 
 ble when they are just full grown ; and what 
 has been said i-especting vegetables, applies 
 equally well to fish. 
 
 The most convenient utensil to boil fish 
 in, is a turbot-kettle. This should be 
 twenty-four inches long, twenty-two wide, 
 and nine deep. It is an excellent Tessel to 
 boil a ham in, &c. &c. 
 
 N. B. The liver of the fish pounded and
 
 FIS 
 
 75 
 
 FLE 
 
 mixed with batter, with a little lemon-juice, 
 &c. is an elegant and inoffensive relish to 
 fish. Mushroom sauce extempore or tile 
 soup of mock turtle, will make an excellent 
 fish gauce. 
 
 For liquids, you have meat gravy, lemon- 
 juice, sirup of lemons, essence of anehovy, 
 the various vegetable essences, uiuslirixmi 
 catchup, and the whites and yolks of eggs, 
 win. -, and the essence of spices. 
 
 I'lSH, NBW METHOD OF DRESSING. 
 Take any sort of fish you think prujxir, l>e- 
 ing very careful that it is (juitc fresh; clean 
 it Thoroughly, dry, and season it to your 
 taste; then put it (without any moisture), 
 into a [Ktn, which may be closely covered, 
 with the exception of a small hole, to allow 
 uioii. 1'ut it into an oven as soon 
 as the bread is drawn, and let it stand until 
 the whole is so completely cliss. 
 
 BJ are not perceptible. When cold, 
 this makes a very transparent, well-flavored 
 jelly. 
 
 F I S 1 1 < '( ).\ s >.M M E. Take carp, tench, 
 
 I--, pike, and other fre.-h-watcr lish 
 
 of the same kind; clean them well, and cut 
 
 them into pieces, as near of a size as may 
 
 be; lay them in a stewpan, on a la\rr of 
 
 as soon as they 
 
 lieu'in d> sweat, put in a bit of butter, and 
 leave tlicm lor a quarter of an hour; mois- 
 ten them with lish broth, and let them boil 
 gently for an hour; keep the pan closely 
 . this will afford a very nourishing 
 broth. 
 
 FISH KETCHUP. Take rather more 
 :<hit of vinegar, three pints of red 
 Port, two table-spoonfuls of pepper, pound- 
 ed very fine, plenty of shallots and Imise- 
 radi.-h, the IMI-I of hall" a lemon, and two or 
 three bay-leaves, and a pound of anchovies; 
 Jet the whole Imil together until the ancho- 
 vies are dissolved, then strain, and when 
 cold, put it into bottles. Two or three 
 FjyxHifuls are sufficient lor a jyjund of 
 
 batter. 
 
 FISH FOiUT.MF.AT. Take two oun- 
 ces of either turUit. . siirim|k<, 
 -; free from ski.i, put it in a mor- 
 tar with two minces of I', !i butler, one 
 .iiini-e of bread-crumbs, the volk of 
 Imiled hard, and a little e>.-hal<.;. 
 Inou-peel, and parslev, min.-ed very line; 
 then jKiiind it well till it is thoroughly mixed 
 and quite smooth; season it with ~.i\i and 
 Cayenne to your taste ; break in the volk 
 
 IM white of one egg, rob it well toother, 
 
 and it is readv lor use. Ovsfers parboiled 
 Uiid minced line, and an anchovy, may Ix; 
 added. 
 
 PISH GRAVY. (1) Cut two or three 
 
 little lull of any kind into small pieces; put 
 them into a saucepan, with rather more 
 water than will cover them, a bit of toasted 
 bread, a blade of mace, some lemon-prel, 
 whole jM-pper, and a bunch of sweet herbs; 
 let it simmer gently till ii is rich and good; 
 brown a little bit of Imtter in a stew pan, 
 and when it is browned, strain the uravy in- 
 to it, and let it boil for a few minutes. 
 
 FISH (Ill.VVV. (2) Put some slices 
 of onion into a .-tevtpan, and set them on 
 the lire; when they an- completely dissolved, 
 add a piece of butter, and some small lish, 
 or pieces of carp, tench, perch, or any other 
 you linil convenient. As soon as they begin 
 to dissolve, and give out their moisture, put 
 a ylas.-|iil of root broth to them, and boil 
 them for half an hour; then add a glass of 
 white wine, and a little lemon-juice, and 
 boil it another half hour, wlien it may be 
 pressed through a sieve, with great force. 
 
 FISH RECHAUFFE. (1) After pike, 
 cod, skate, tin I .1, soli>. or any other white 
 fish has Ix^en dressed, pick it from the bones 
 into small bits ; add to a pound of fish, or 
 in the same proportion, half a pint of good 
 cream, one table-spoonful of mustard, the 
 same of anchovy essence, the same of ketch- 
 up, and of Harvey sauce, a little flour, some 
 salt, pepper, and butter; make it all hot in 
 the xiuce|xui, then put it into the dish in 
 which it is to be served up, strew crumbs 
 of bread over it, and baste it with butter till 
 it is a little moist, then brown it with a 
 salamander, or in a Dutch oven. A wall 
 ot ma.-hed potatoes roiuld the dish is an im- 
 provement. 
 
 FISH RECHAUFFE. (2) Pick from 
 the bone in large flakes about two pounds 
 of cold salmon, codfish, or soles; melt a 
 quarter of a |>ound of butter in half a pint of 
 cream, with a little flour and salt; add the 
 fish and heat it thoroughly. 
 
 FISH SAUCE. See Sauce*. 
 
 FI.FMISH WAFERS. Put into a 
 deep pan half a pound of flour; strain and 
 mix wi:ii it half a pint of warmed milk, and 
 two talile-s|xjonful.- of fresh yca.-t; work tile 
 ! paste till it l>e soft and smooth, and pla< < it 
 in a stove, ( >r eio.-e to the lire, to rise; then 
 add the beaten yolks of six eggs, half a 
 |x>nnd of freoli butter Ix-aten to a cream, 
 and a lump of sugar which has Ui-n niblied 
 upon the peel of a lemon, and then pounded; 
 last of all, IxMt in lightly the- well-whisked 
 whites of the eggs; again place the ><.< in 
 a warm |il. ire, and ii nil! i !- I 
 
 double its bulk. Heat and rub (lie iron*,
 
 FLU 
 
 76 
 
 FOR 
 
 which should be square, with a little butter ; 
 fill one side with the mixture, and close 
 them ; when one side is done turn the oth- 
 er, and when of a fine color, take out the 
 wafers ; put them upon a plate, and whilst 
 hot, sift over this quantity a quarter of a 
 pound of grated loaf sugar. 
 
 FLIP. To make a quart of flip: Put 
 the ale on the fire to warm, and beat up 
 three or four eggs, with four ounces of moist 
 sugar, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg or 
 ginger, and a quartern of good old ruin or 
 brandy. When the ale nearly boils put it 
 into one pitcher, and the rum, eggs, &c. in- 
 to another ; turn it from one to another till 
 it is a smooth as cream. This is called a 
 Yard of Flannel. 
 
 FLOATING ISLAND. Boil, with a 
 pint of milk, a bit of cinnamon, and half the 
 peel of a lemon; when almost cold, strain it, 
 and mix with it the beaten white of one, and 
 the yolks of three eggs ; stir itover die fire till 
 thick, pour it into a dish, and stir it now 
 and then till cold. Whisk the whites of 
 two eggs, and half a pint of Guava, quince, 
 or red currant jelly, till it be a very stiff". 
 
 FLOUNDERS BOILED. (1) Put on a 
 stewpan with a sufficient quantity of water 
 to cover the flounders which are to be dres- 
 sed ; put in some vinegar and horse-radish ; 
 when the water boils put in the fish, having 
 lieen first well cleaned, and their fins cut off; 
 they must not boil too fast for fear they should 
 break; when they are sufficiently done, lay 
 them on a fish plate, the tails in the middle. 
 Serve them with parsley and butter. 
 
 FLOUNDERS BOILED. (2) Wash and 
 clean them well, cut the black side of them 
 the same as you do turbot, then put them in- 
 to a (i.-li-kettle, with plenty of cold water 
 and a handful of salt ; when they come to a 
 boil, skim them clean, and let them stand 
 by the side-of die fire for five minutes, and 
 diey are ready. Obs. Eaten with plain 
 melted butter and a little salt, you have the 
 sweet delicate flavor of die flounder, which 
 is overpowered by any sauce. 
 
 FLOUNDERS OR PLAICE, FRIED OR 
 BOILED. Flounders are perhaps the most 
 (iiiiirult fish to fry very nicely. (.'Iran them 
 well, flour them, and wi| them widi a dry 
 cloth to absorb all die water from diem; 
 flour or egg and bread-crumb them. 
 
 FLUMMERY. Steep three large hand- 
 
 fuls of very small white oatmeal 4 day and 
 night in cold water; then pour it oft' clear; 
 then add as much more water, and let h 
 stand anodier dav and a night. Then 
 
 strain it through a fine hair sieve, and boil 
 it till it is of the conMstence of hasty pud- 
 ding, keeping it well stirred all die time it 
 is boiling. When first strained, put to it 
 one large s|xniful of white sugar, and two 
 of orange-flower water. Pour it into shal- 
 low dishes, and scrxe to eat with wine, ci- 
 der, milk or ccpam, and sugar. 
 
 FLUMMERY DUTCH. Boil very 
 
 irenlly for half an hour, two ounces of isin- 
 ;:!a.-.- in three half pints of water; add a pint 
 of white wine, the juice of three lemons and 
 the thin rind of one, and nib a few lumps 
 of sugar on another to obtain the essence, 
 and with them add as much more sugar as 
 will make it sufficiently sweot ; and having 
 beaten up the yolks of se\en eggs, give diem 
 and the above, when mixed, one scald; stir 
 all the time, and pour the whole into a ba- 
 sin; stir it till it is half cold; then let it 
 settle, and put it into a melon shape. 
 
 FLUMMERY FRENCH. Beat an 
 ounce of isinglass line, put it into a quart of 
 cream, and boil it gently for a quarter of an 
 hour, keeping it stirring all the time. Then 
 take it off, sweeten it ith tine powder su- 
 gar, put in a s|Mxinfiil of rose and another 
 of orange-dower water, strain it through a 
 sieve, and stir it till half cold. Put it into 
 a mould or basin, and when cold, turn it in- 
 to a dish, and garnish with currant jelly. 
 
 FONDUS. Put some grated cheese into 
 a basin, with pepper and a little melted liut- 
 ter, and the yolks of eggs; stir them togeth- 
 er; whip the whites of the eggs to a firm 
 froth, and add them, a little at a time, to 
 the cheese, stirring lightly with a wooden 
 spoon; half till as many paper OUtt 
 can, and bake them, like biscuits, in a 
 | moderate oven. Serve them as quickly as 
 possible after they are done. 
 
 FORCEMEAT STUFFING. Force- 
 meat is now considered an indispensable 
 accompaniment to most made dishes, and 
 when composed \\illi good taste, gives ad- 
 ditional spirit and relish to even that " sove- 
 ! reign of savouriness," turtle soup. 
 
 It is also sent up in patties, and for stuf- 
 fing of veal, game, pnultn 
 
 The ingredients should t>e so proportion- 
 ed, that no one flavor pred in 
 
 To give the same stuffing for veal, hare, 
 &c. argues a poverty of inu-ntinn; with a 
 little contrivance, jou may make as great 
 a variety as you have dishes. 
 
 The poignancy of forcemeat should be 
 proportioned to the savonriness of the \ iandri, 
 to which it is intended to give OS additional 
 est. Some dishes require a very delicate- 
 ly flavored forcemeat, for others, it must
 
 FOR 
 
 77 
 
 FOW 
 
 be full and high seasoned. What would U- 
 piquantt in a turkey, would be insipid willi 
 turtle. 
 
 ..pie have an acquired and pecu- 
 liar lasic in stiillin^s, fee. anil what exactly 
 pleaaes one, M-ldoiu is precisely what an- 
 other considers lln- most agreeable. 
 
 Custom is all in matters of ta.-tc: it i- not 
 that OIK- person is naturally fond of this or 
 that, and another naturally averse to it; Im! 
 tluit one is n.-ed to it, and "another is not. 
 
 The consistency of forcemeats is rather a 
 difficult thin:; to manage ; they an: almost 
 always either too liylit or t'H> heavy. 
 
 Take care to |x>uud it till perfectly smooth, 
 and that all the ingredients are thoroughly 
 incor|x>raled. 
 
 Forcemeat-halls must not lie larger than 
 a small nuiiii.-^. If they arc for brown 
 sane:', llour and fry them; if lor while, put 
 them into l>iling water, anil !><>il (hem for 
 three mimiii-: the latter are In far the must 
 delicate. 
 
 If not of sufficient stillness, it falls to 
 pieces, and makes soup, &c. grouty and 
 very unsightly. 
 
 Swi cfhieads and tongues are the favorite 
 material- lor f.nemeat. Forcemeat should 
 be made sufficiently consistent to cut with a 
 knife, Ixit not dry or heavy. .No one flavor 
 should predominate tjreatly ; according to 
 what it is wanted for, a selection ma\ lx- 
 made from the following list, licing careful 
 to use the least of those arlicics which are 
 the -nost pungent : 
 
 Coli I fox* I, or veal. scraped ham, fat Iw- 
 con, beef suet, crumbs of bread, parsley, 
 while pcp|irr, salt, nutmeg, yo Iks and whites 
 of eggs, we'll beaten, to hind I'M mixture. 
 
 The f.irccin.Mi 'nay be nude with any 
 
 of these articles without any striking llavor; 
 
 therefore any of the following different ingre- 
 
 -. of to vary llie taste. 
 
 Oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, |x-n- 
 . knotted-ntaijorain, thyme, basil, 
 yolks of h.inl e 
 
 Jamaica |'ppcr in line puwiler, or 
 
 two or llllee clo\e>. 
 
 To force or slnll turkeys, geese, ducks, 
 under the heads of the ditleivnt 
 ways i .:n --ing turkeys, geese, &c. 
 
 Fok< T.MKAT. Take an equal quantity 
 of lean veal scraped, and beef met shred; 
 
 U-at them in a niarbl.- mortar; add pep|x-r, 
 Kilt, clovui, |xiunded lemon-peel, and imtme- 
 l*u-sley and !.w<t-t h'-ili.-. choppi-d 
 line, a linle shallot and \onii_- onion, a lew 
 brcail-ermnbs grated line, and yolk of e^'i; 
 milticicnt to work it li^ht ; roll this into 
 lulls- wilii a little llour; if tor white sauce, 
 boil them ; if for brow n s:im -c. fry them. 
 
 FOR( i:\ll-.Vr HAI.I.S FOR FISH 
 7* 
 
 SOUPS, OR FISH STEWED. Beat th* 
 
 llesh and soft pails of a middling pi/.ed lob- 
 ster, half an anchovy, a laii;e piece oflniil- 
 ed celery, the yolk of a hard ej;g, a little 
 Cayenne, mace, salt, and white pepper, 
 with two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, 
 one spoonful of oyster liquor, two ounces of 
 butter warmed, two irus ln-aten fora long 
 time; make into lills, and fry them of a 
 nice brown color in butter. 
 
 FORCEMEAT-BALLS FOR TURTLE, 
 !Ui>i * TURTLE, OR MADE DISHES. 
 
 Pound some veal in a marble mortar; rub 
 it through a sie\e with as much of the udder 
 4 have veal, or about a third of the 
 quantity of butler: put some bread-crumbs 
 into a stew pan, moisien them with milk, 
 add a little chop|>ed pirslev and eschalot, 
 
 i rub them well together in a mortar till they 
 form a smooth paste; put it throiujh a sieve, 
 
 i and, when cold, |xmiid, and mix all I 
 ei . u nil th'- \olks of tlin-e ejigs boiled hard; 
 season it with salt, |>cp|/er, and curry pow- 
 der, or Cayenne; add to it the yolk.- of two 
 rub it well together, ar.il make 
 small balls: ten minutes before your soup is 
 ready, put them in. 
 
 FOWLS. When a cock is young, his 
 spurs are short ; take care that you are not 
 
 deceived by their having been cut or pared, 
 ,1 trick that is oftcM practised. If fresh 
 their vent will !* close and dark. Hens 
 are I >cst, just liefore they la-gin to lay, and 
 yel are full i,f e^ ; if they are old, their 
 coiulis and Iru's are nni^h. 
 
 All [xMiltry should Ixj very carefully pick- 
 ed, ev.-i\ pli.^ 'i "i!..M-d, ami the hair nicely 
 singed with pa|)er. 
 
 >k should he careful in drawing 
 |H)',iltry of all .-i>-. not I > break the gait- 
 bag, for no wa>hini; will take oil' the bitter 
 where it has touched. 
 
 If for roasting, Mack-legged fowls are 
 the in .-t moist. A uiK'd-Mied fowl will 
 take from three-quarters of an hour to an 
 hour in roaMin^'. a middling-sized one about 
 half an hour, and a very small one, or chick- 
 Tamo low Is require more roust in*;, and 
 | are lunger in heating through than others. 
 All sorts .should ! continually Ui.-ted, that 
 they may ! .-er\ed with a froth, and apjiear 
 of a fine color. The lire must ! very i|nick 
 and clear before any low Is are put down. 
 Serve with eg',' sance, bread >ai , or gar- 
 nished with sausages or scalded [xirsley. 
 
 A large Uini-door fowl, well huajf, shniild 
 In- stulleil in the crop with sal. -age-meat, 
 and served with gravy in the dish, and with 
 bread sance. 
 
 The head should be turned under the 
 wiii^', lik a turkey.
 
 FO W 
 
 78 
 
 FO W 
 
 For boiling, choose those that are not 
 black-legged; pick them carefully, singe. 
 wash, and truss them. Flour them, and 
 put them in boiling water; a good-sized 
 one will be done in half an hour. 
 
 Serve with parsley and butter; oyster, 
 lemon, liver, or celery sauce. If for dinner, 
 ham, tongue, or bacon, is commonly served 
 with them. 
 
 Fowls are trussed in the same manner as 
 chickens. (See Chickens). 
 
 Chickens or fowls should be killed at 
 least one or two days before they are to he 
 
 Turkeys (especially large ones) should 
 not be dressed till they have been killed 
 three or four days at least, in cold weather 
 six or eight, or they will neither look white 
 nor eat tender. 
 
 Turkeys, and large fowls, should have 
 the strings or sinews of the thighs drawn 
 out. 
 
 Truss them with the legs outward, they 
 are much easier carved. 
 
 FOWL A LA HOLANDAISE. Make 
 
 a forcemeat of grated bread, half its quantity 
 of minced suet, an onion, or a few oysters, 
 and some boiled parsley, season with pepper, 
 salt, and grated lemon-peel, and an egg 
 lieaten up to bind it. Bone the breast of a 
 good-sized young fowl, put in the forcemeat, 
 rover the fowl with a piece of white paper 
 Iwttered, and roast it rather more than half 
 an hour; have ready a thick batter made of 
 flour, milk, and eggs, take off the paper, and 
 |xnir some of the batter over the fowl; as 
 soon as it becomes dry add more, and do 
 this till it is all enisled over, and of a nice 
 brown color ; serve it with melted butter and 
 lemon pickle, or a thickened brown gravy. 
 
 FOWL BOILED WITH RICE. Stew 
 a fowl in some well-skimmed clear mutton 
 broth, and seasoned with onion, mace, pep- 
 per, and salt. About half an hour before it 
 is ready, put in a quarter of a pint of rice 
 well washed and soaked. Simmer till ten- 
 der ; then strain it from the broth, and put 
 the rice on a sieve before tile tire. Keep the 
 fowl hot, lay it in the middle of a dish, and 
 the rice round it without the broth. The 
 less liquor the fowl is done with, the better. 
 Serve with gravy, or parsley and butter for 
 
 FOWL BROILED. Split diem down 
 the back, well salt and pepper them; then 
 broil them. Serve with mushroom sauce. 
 
 FOWL CAPILOTADE. Take the re- 
 mains of a ready dressed fowl, and put 
 them into a slewpan; then do up some 
 parsley, shallots, and four mushrooms, all 
 
 slued small, in a little letter; as soon as the 
 latter Incomes liquid, add four ladk-fuls of 
 espagnole, and two of consomme, reduce, 
 and skim it ; pour it on your fowl, set it on 
 the fire to simmer for a quarter of an hour, 
 l>efore you send it to table. 
 
 FOWL CURRY. See Curry. 
 
 FOWLS DRESSED TO DRESS 
 
 AGAIN. Cut them in quarters, beat up an 
 egg or two (according to die quantity you 
 dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and pep- 
 per and salt, some parsley minced fine, and 
 a few crumbs of bread; mix these well to- 
 gether, and cover the fowl, &c. with this 
 batter; broil them, or put them in a Dutch 
 oven, or have n-ady some dripping hot in a 
 pan, in which fry them a light brown color; 
 thicken a little gravy with some flour, put 
 a large spoonful of catchup to it, lay the 
 fry in a dish, and pour the sauce round it. 
 You may garnish with slices of lemon and 
 toasted bread. 
 
 Turkey, Goose, Duck, Rabbit, 
 Pigeon, are all dressed same way. 
 
 FOWL, GAME, OR RABBIT HASH- 
 F.D. Cut them into joints, put the trim- 
 mings into a stewpan with a quart of 
 the broth thev were boiled in, and a large 
 onion cut in tour; let it boil half an hour; 
 strain it through a sieve: then put two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour in a basin, and mix it 
 well by degrees with the hot broth; set it 
 on the fire to Iwil up, then strain it through a 
 fine sieve: wash out the stewpan, lay the poul- 
 try in it, and pour the gravy on it (through 
 a sieve) ; set it by tlie side of the fire to 
 simmer very gently (it must not Ixiil) for 
 fifteen minutes; live minutes before you 
 serve it up, cut the stufliii<; in slices, and 
 put it in to warm, then take it out, and lay 
 it round the edge of the dish, and put the 
 poultry in the middle; carefully skim the 
 (at off the gravy, then shake it round well 
 in the stewpan, and pour it to the; hash. 
 N. B. You may garnish the disli \\ ith bread 
 sippets lightly toasted. 
 
 FOWL HASHED. Cut a cold roasted 
 fowl into pieces as for a fricassee, |it the 
 trimmings into a saucepan with two or three 
 shallots, a little lemon-|>eel, a blade ol'mace, 
 a quarter of a pound of lean ham, and a pint 
 of stock; simmer it for half an hour, strain 
 it, put a bit of butter into a saucepan, and 
 when melted, dredge in as much flour as will 
 dry it up, stirring it all the time; then add 
 the gravy, let it boil a minute, and put in the 
 fowl, also a little pepper, salt, and a dust of 
 sugar. Before serving, squeeze in a little 
 lemon-juice.
 
 row 
 
 79 
 
 FRA 
 
 FOWL MINCED WITH VEAL. 
 
 Mince tin' wliitc part of a cold roaste.l or 
 Ixiiled fowl; put it, and sonic thin slices of 
 veal, into a saucepan, also some white stock, 
 a squeeze of a lemon, a few drops of shallot 
 \ iue^ar. a'lil a dust of sugar ; siniiiier it for 
 n short time, and serve it ii|xni bread sippets, 
 with tin- slices of veal laid on the mince. 
 
 FOWL 1TLLKI). Skin a cold chick- 
 en, foul, or turkey; take oft" the lillets from 
 the hrea.-ts, and put them into a slew pan 
 with tile rest of the white meat and wings, 
 side-lxines, and merry-thought, with a pint 
 of broth, a larije blade of mace |xmnded, an 
 eschalot minced fine, the juice of half a lem- 
 on, and a roll of tlie peel, some salt, and a 
 few grains of cayenne; thicken it with flour 
 and butter, and let it simmer for luo or 
 three minutes, till tiie meat is warm. In the 
 meantime score the eggs and rump, powder 
 them uitli |x-p[xT and salt, broil them nicely 
 lirown, and lay them on, or round your |xill<il 
 chicken. Three table-spoonfuls of good 
 rieam, or the yolks of as many eggs, \\ill ! 
 a great improvement to it. 
 
 FOWL OK RABBIT. We can only 
 recommend this method of dressing when the 
 fire if not good enough for riKisting. Pick 
 and truss it the same as for lx>ilin<;, cut it 
 ojx'ii down the back, w i]>e tin- inside clean 
 with a cloth, season it with a little pepper 
 and Kill, have a clc;ir fire, and set the grid- 
 iron at a :;o<>d distance over it, fay the 
 chicken on with the inside towards the fire 
 (yon may e^i; it am) strew some grated 
 bread over it), and broil it till it is a line 
 lirown: Like care the fleshy siile is not burn- 
 ed. Liiy it on a hot dish; pickled mush- 
 nMims, or mushroom sauce thrown over it, 
 or |>arslev and butter, or melted Uitter fla- 
 vored with mushroom ketchup, (iarnishil 
 witli slices of lemon ; and the livei and giz- 
 y.ard slit and notched, seasoned with |-p|-r 
 and sail, and broiled nicely brown, with 
 ome slices of lemon. 
 
 FOWLS WITH KICK, CALLED 
 I'll I vi F . 1'ioil :i pint of rice in as much 
 Mater as will cover it, with black |x-p| er, a 
 few blade* of mace, and half a do/en clo\es, 
 lied up in a bit i.f cloth; VV!H-!I the i ice i- 
 tender, take out llie spice; stir in a piece 
 of butter; U>il a fowl and a piece of bacon; 
 lay them in the dish, cover (Item wiih tile 
 i !: I. iv round ih" dish, and ii|xm (lie rice, 
 hard egB, cut in halv.>, q-r.ti lei>. and 
 lengthwavs, witli onion.-, lirst lxiili.il, and 
 then li 
 
 S KO AST F.I!. Well pepper 
 
 the fowls ! il them ; 
 
 !i llii-in 
 
 up when nearly done, by sprinkling tliem 
 over with flour and silt, and -lasting them 
 with liullci . When done, be careful in tak- 
 in-f out the skewers. Serve them with very 
 gixnl clear ifravy in the dish, and bread or 
 < in a boat. 
 
 FOWL ROASTED WITH CHEST- 
 NUTS. Roast some cliestnuts, very care- 
 fiilly, so that they may not be burnt, then 
 lake oil' the skins, and peel them. Take 
 alxiut a dozen of them, cut them small, and 
 bruise them in a mortar. 1'arlxiil the liver 
 of a fowl ; brui.se it, and cut about a quarter 
 of a |xiiiiid of ham or bacon, and pound it. 
 Then mix them all together, with a good 
 quantity of chopped parsley, sweet herbs, 
 some mace, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When 
 these are are all well mixed togetlier,. put it 
 into your fowl, and roast it. The Ix'st way 
 of doing this is to tie the neck, and hang it 
 up I iv the legs to roast, witli a string, and 
 then baste it with butter. For sauce, take 
 the rest of the che.-tnnts, peel and skin them, 
 put them into some good gravy, with a little 
 white wine; and thicken it with a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. Then place your fowl 
 in the dish; pour in the sauce; garnish with 
 lemon, and serve. 
 
 FOWL WITH ITS OWN GRAVY. 
 
 Truss a fowl the same us for boiling, lard it 
 ijiiite through witli bacon, ham, and pars- 
 ley ; put it in a pan with a little butter, two 
 or three slices of peeled lemon, a bundle of 
 sweet herbs, three cloves, sliced onions, 
 carrot.-, pepper, salt, a little stock, and a 
 gla.-s of white wine; stew them gently till 
 they are done ; skim and strain the sauce, 
 and serve il with the fowl. 
 
 FOWL, WILD. Tle flavor of wild 
 fowl is preserved better bv not stuffing them ; 
 put into each, peppT, salt, and a bit of but- 
 ter. Wild fowl do not require so much 
 dressing as tame ; tliey should be done of a 
 line color, and nicely frothed. A rich brown 
 niavy sjionld ! served ill the dish, and when 
 the breast is cut into slices, bcfiuv it is taken 
 from the Ixine, it will lie much improved by 
 a -i | nee/i- of lemon, some salt and pepper. 
 ll'\ou wi.-h to take oil' the fishy smell which 
 tlie-e birds fiii|uently have, pm an onion, 
 sail, and hot water into the dripping pan, 
 and for the lii.-t ten minutes haste them with 
 tin.-; then remove (lie pan, and keep cou- 
 stantlv basting w ith U"ler. 
 
 FRAISE. See (Mf* ChiUerlingt. 
 
 FKAVMl'ANF.. Take a -aiu e| K in,and 
 put into il live spoonfuls of flour, five eggs, a 
 pint of milk, in ounce of Unier and a litil.- 
 .silt; set il . :<. li. ;'',e, stirring coa-tantly
 
 80 
 
 FR1 
 
 Until it lias l>ilcd ten minutes, taking great 
 care that il does nut burn; then |xjur it into 
 a basi.i. and let it cool. Take a few al- 
 monds, (to every six sweet put one bitter), 
 bruise them, and some macaroons, and when 
 reduced to powder, mix them with a little 
 cris|>ed orange-Hour (also in powder), and a 
 suiiieieiit quantity of pq wder-0ugar to BweeteH 
 il : add these to the above preparation, and 
 stir them in well with a wooden spoon. If 
 your frangipane be too thick, add anotlior 
 etrg or two, and then make whatever use of 
 il yon may desire. You may, if you think 
 proper, substitute pistachios for the sweet 
 almonds, in which case a little spinach es- 
 sence must IK- added to color it, tile maca- 
 roons and orange-flowers omitted, and three 
 bitter almonds only used. 
 
 FRE.\CH BEANS. Cut off the stalk 
 end first, and then turn to the point and 
 strip off the strings. If not quite fresh, have 
 a bowl of spring-water, with a little salt 
 dissolved in it, standing before yon, and as 
 the beans are cleaned and stringed, throw 
 them in. When all are done, put them on 
 the fire in boiling water, with some sail in 
 it; after they have boiled fifteen or twenty 
 minutes, take one out and taste it; as soon 
 as they are tender take them up; throw 
 them into a colander or sieve to drain. To 
 .Bend up the beans whole is much the l>e.-t 
 method when they are thus young, and their 
 delicate flavor and color are much tetter 
 preserved. When a little more grown, they 
 must Ix: cut across in two after stringing; 
 and for common tables they are split, and 
 divided across ; cut them all the same length ; 
 but those who are nice never have them at 
 such a growth as to require splitting. When 
 they are very large tliey look pretty cut into 
 kr/enges. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS, NASTURTIUMS, 
 
 &-.(. \Vhen yoii'i^, and most other small 
 trrei-ii vegetables, may be pickled the same 
 way as gherkins. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS FOR WINTER 
 
 CSK. (father them when young, and on a 
 di'v day, put a layer of salt into a jar, and 
 nf alxmt two inches thick oflx-ans; 
 do this till the jar be nearly full ; place a 
 small plate upon the top of them, and tie a 
 bladder closely over the jar; keep it in a 
 cool dry place. When to be used, snak 
 them a night in col&Hvater, and change it 
 on tin-in repeatedly in die course of the day 
 thev are to lx> dressed. Cut them, and put 
 them on in lx>iling water. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS TO DRESS 
 
 DR1KD. Boil lor more than two hours, in 
 two quarts of water, a pound of the seeds or 
 
 l>cans of scarlet runners ; fill a pint basin 
 with onions jx-clcd or sliced, brown them in, 
 a saucepan, with rather more than a quar- 
 ter of a pound of fresh butter ; stir them con- 
 stantly; strain the water from the bonus, 
 and mix them with the onions; add a tea- 
 s|x>oiiful of pep|xr, some salt, and a little 
 uravy. Let them stew for ten minutes, and 
 stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs, and a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar. Serve them hot. 
 
 FRENCH SUPPER DISH. Pare off 
 
 the crust, and cut one or two slices of bread 
 into bits of two or three inches square ; fry 
 them in butter; put them upon a hot dish, 
 and lay upon each bit some warmed preserve, 
 or stew for a few minutes, in sweet wine 
 and a little sugar, some stoned bloom raisins, 
 and put them upon and round the toast. 
 The preserves may lx> heated by placing the 
 jars in hot water by the side of the fire. 
 
 FRIARS' CHICKEN. Put four pounds 
 of a knuckle of veal into four quarts of wa- 
 ter; boil it gently tor two hours; strain it 
 oft"; cut three chickens, or two younsf fowls 
 into joints ; skin them, and when the broth 
 boils put them in ; season with white pepper 
 and salt; let them boil a short time, and 
 add a handful of parsley chop|x-d small ; 
 when the chickens are boiled tender, have 
 ready six or seven well-leaten e 
 them quickly into the broth one way, imme- 
 diately before taking it olV the fire. This 
 broth may be made entirely of veal instead 
 of chickens. 
 
 FRICAN DEI, LANS. Mince about two 
 pounds of tender lean beef, and tlmf-quar- 
 tci'sofa pound of fresh suet, then pound it 
 till it be as smooth as a paste, and earefiilly 
 pi'-k out all the threads and sinews ; add four 
 woll-liealen cij'js, hall' a pint of rich croam, 
 and as much grated and sifter! bread as will 
 make it sufficiently consistent to Ibrm into 
 rolls resembling corks, and season it with 
 salt, and |x,-ppcr. Hoi I the corks in some 
 good st.ick, or in boiling water. 
 
 FRICASSEE i',R<)\\\. Take two o* 
 
 three young rabbits, cut them in pieces, and 
 stew them iu uravy made of l>eet', some whole 
 pepper, two shallots, one or two anchovies, 
 a bit of horse-radish, and a little sweet mar- 
 joram jx)wdereri small. Stew the rabbits 
 about a quarter of an hour, then take them 
 out of the gravy, strain the liquor, fry your 
 rabbits in lard or butter; add a glass of 
 claret; you may fry some forcemeat balls, 
 made with the livers of the rabbits parlxiilr-d, 
 and a little parsley shred small, some nutmeg 
 trratcd, pepj.er, salt, a few bread crumbs, 
 and I wo Ixiltercd i'i;;;s; mix these all to- 
 gether, make them up into balls, dip them
 
 FRI 
 
 81 
 
 FRI 
 
 in the yolk of egg, roll them in flour, 
 then fry them, and garnish your dish with 
 them, with fried parsley, and sliced lemon. 
 
 FRICASSEE WHITE. Cut a couple 
 of rabbits into pieces, and let them soak in 
 warm water to cleanse them from the blood ; 
 then lay them in a cloth to dry; put them 
 intn a .-tr\\ |>aii with milk and water, and let 
 them stew till they are tender, and then take 
 a clean pan, and put into it half a pint of 
 cream. ;enl a quarter of a pound of butter; 
 stir them well together till the butler is melt- 
 ed ; Ix- careful to keep it constantly stirring, 
 or it will !* greasy; put in the rabbits, take 
 a little dried mace, a little jxunuied nutmeg, 
 and a few mhraooBj shake them together 
 for a few minutes, and then put it to the 
 rabbit.-. You may add white wine if you 
 
 l-hoo-.-. 
 
 FRIED TOASTS. Cut the crumb of 
 
 a tw[KMiny loaf into round or oblong pieces, 
 nearly an inch tliick, and soak them for four 
 or live hours in a pint of cream, mixed with 
 three ueil-U-aien e^ifs, half a pint of white 
 wine, a little iati .1 nutmeg, and sweetened 
 with pounded l,.:tl -u^.ir. Fry them in but- 
 ter, till of a hi;ht brown color, and serve 
 with wine and sugar sauce. 
 
 FRITTERS. (1) Make them ofany of 
 the batten directed li>r pancakes, by dropping 
 a small quantity into the pan, or make die 
 plainer .-cirt, and pit |>ared apples sliced and 
 cored in the baiter, and fry some of it with 
 each sli'e. Currants or sliced lemon, as 
 thin as |x --il.|.\ uro yery nice. 
 
 FR1TTF.RS. (2) Fritters should be sent 
 to table sej\ed u|x)ii a folded napkin in tlie 
 di.-h. Aiu -MI i. f -\M eimeat, or ripe fruit, 
 ma\ l>e made into fritters. 
 
 I I! I I I E R S , E.NGLISH-AND- 
 
 FKF.N* 'II. Take i marrow pudding, and 
 
 when nearly cold, cut it into thin slices, and 
 
 then cut them :i<.;aln into pieces two inches 
 
 iinee-quarters of an inch wide, dip 
 
 hatter, and fry them in the usual 
 
 manner: when drained, glaze them with tine 
 
 tin-in \ery hot. The batter 
 
 lor the ab.i\r Minns i.- made as follows: 
 
 i-it and a half of water, a grain of 
 
 salt, and two ounces of fresh butter into a 
 
 : when it U.i Is stir in a sufficient 
 
 quantity of tlour to make it a rather linn 
 
 I mtter. keep ii stirring three minutes, then 
 
 pour it into another vessel. 
 
 FWITERS A LA DAUI'IIIM:. 
 Take a [xmnd of brioche paste, and roll it 
 out as thin a* possible, to the form of a lonif 
 quart-; on part of this lay small quantities 
 
 of apricot marmalade at intervals, slightly 
 wet the paste round each piece of preserve, 
 and lay over the plain |>art of tlie paste so as 
 to cover the other completely, press it down 
 lightly that the marmalade may not eseajx- 
 in tlie cooking, and cut out your fritters 
 with a circular paste-cutter of two inches in 
 diameter; flour them a little, and then lay 
 them in ratlier a hot friture, when the paste 
 will swell them into little balls ; as soon as 
 they are of a proper color take them out, 
 drain them on a napkin, sprinkle them with 
 fine sugar, and serve them. 
 
 FRITTERS A LA COTE. Soak in 
 brandy some leaves and the young and ten- 
 der shoots of the vine, dip them in a batter 
 made of milk, yolks of eggs, and flour, fry 
 them in boiling oil, sprinkle them with su- 
 gar. Elder flowers are made into fritters in 
 the same manner. 
 
 FRITTERS AU BLANC. Mix to- 
 gether a handful of rice-flour and some milk, 
 set them on the fire, stirring constantly, add 
 a little cream, sugar, lemon-peel, and orange- 
 flowers; when it has become of a proper 
 consistence, take it from the fire; as soon 
 as it is cold, roll it into balls about tlie size 
 of a nut, dip them in baiter and fry them. 
 
 FRITTERS BLONDIX. Put some 
 butter into a saucepan, and when it is melt- 
 ed add to it a glass of milk, and a pinch of 
 salt, keep it on tlie fire till it boil:- ; then 
 mix in a sufficient quantity of flour to make 
 it into a consistent paste, which will not 
 stick to the fingers; spread it on a table, 
 roll it out to the thickness you may require, 
 cut it in round, oval, or any other formed 
 pieces you may think proper, and fry them of 
 a nice color, in the best oil ; sprinkle sugar 
 over, and serve them. 
 
 FRITTERS, FRENCH, OF BRAN- 
 DY FRUITS. Take a dozen apricots 
 (or oilier fruits) preserved in brandy, drain, 
 and cut them in half: then wrap them in w a- 
 I fera cut round and previously moisi, ned, dip 
 them in the same kind of batter as that used 
 for fritters Engliah-and- French, ami fry 
 them ; sprinkle them with sugar, and serve. 
 
 FRITTERS EN SURPRISE. Take 
 eight middling-sized apples, pare, and leave 
 on the stalks ; cut off about a fourth part of 
 the stalk end of each apple, and scoop out 
 the inside of each piece, so as to form a sort of 
 cup with a lid ; put them to soak for two hours 
 in a glass of brandy with a little lemon-peel 
 and cinnamon ; at the end of that time take 
 them out, draiq and fill each apple uitll 
 apricot marmalade, or fr.mgi|i!iiie ; mix up 
 a little fl.Mir and white of egg to cement tho
 
 FRO 
 
 82 
 
 FRU 
 
 tops of the apples to the other parts; dip 
 them in batter and fry them. When they 
 are of a proper color, glaze and serve them. 
 
 FRITTERS MIGNON. Put two good 
 spoonfuls of flour into a stewpan, and mix 
 it with the whites and yolks of two eggs, a 
 liith- salt, two ounces of sugar, some lemon- 
 peel grated, half a tea-spoonful of milk, and 
 half a tea-epoonful of cream ; stir it over a 
 slow fire, and, when done and well thicken- 
 ed, spread the cream upon a floured dish, 
 shake Hour over it, and, when cold, cut it 
 into bits with a paste-cutter, dip each bit 
 into a paste made with two spoonfuls of 
 flour, a spoonful of brandy, and a little salt, 
 mixed with two eggs; fry live fritters, and 
 serve, glazed with sugar and a salamander. 
 
 FRITTERS, ROYAL. Put a quart of 
 ne\v milk into a saucepan, and as soon as it 
 begins to boil, pour in a pint of white wine ; 
 then take it off, and let it stand five or six 
 minutes, skim off the curd, and put it into a 
 basin ; l>eat it up well with six < 
 season it with nutmeg; then beat it with a 
 whisk, and add tlour sufficient to give it the 
 pro|x.-r consistence of batter. Put in some 
 sugar and fry them quick. 
 
 FRITTERS, SOUFFLES. Make 
 some flour and beer into a batter tliat will 
 flow a little; take a little of it out with a 
 spoon, throw it into a frying-pan with boil- 
 ing oil ; the moment it rises, take it out, 
 and proceed in the same way till all the bat- 
 ter is used; then sprinkle them with sjalt, 
 and serve. 
 
 FROMAGE CUIT. Cut half a pound 
 of < 'heshire cheese into thin bits, and pound 
 it in a mortar; add by degrees die well- 
 beaten yolks of two, and the white of one 
 egg, and half a pint of cream ; mix it well 
 together and bake it for ten or fifteen min- 
 utes. 
 
 FROST OR ICING FOR CAKES. 
 
 Iteat till very light the whites of four eggs, 
 and add gradually three-quarters of a pound 
 <if double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted 
 through a lawn sieve; mix jn the juice of 
 half a lemon; beat it till very light and 
 white; place the cake before the fire, pour 
 over it the icing, and smooth over the top 
 and sides with the back of a spoon. 
 
 FROTH TO PUT ON CREAM, CUS- 
 TARD, OR TRIFLE. Sweeten half a pound 
 of the pulp of damsons, or any other sort of 
 scalded fruit; put to it the whites of four 
 eggs beaten, and Ixsit the pulp with them 
 till it will stand as high asS'ou wish, and 
 being put on the cream, &c, with a spoon, 
 
 it will take any form ; it should be rough, 
 to imitate a rock. 
 
 FRUIT, CANDIED. (1) It must first be 
 preserved, then dipped in warm water, dried 
 with a cloth, and strewed all over with sift- 
 ed sugar, and dried in a stove or oven, turn- 
 ing as occasion requires. 
 
 FRUIT, CANDIED. (2) When the 
 fmit is preserved, dry it in a stove till the 
 sirup is quite out, dip it into sirup boiled to 
 randy height, and dry it again. All dried 
 and candied fruit must lie kept in a very 
 dry place. 
 
 FRUIT IN JELLY. Have in read mess 
 a plain mould, either long or round, about 
 three inches deep; then have ready some 
 mould jelly, and spread it at the Ixjltom 
 of the mould, about a quarter of an inch 
 thick ; let it be cold ; then put in ripe peach- 
 es, grapes, or any sort of ripe fruit you 
 please, preserved fruit, or China oranges 
 cut into quarters, or whatever sha|>e. you 
 choose; put in a little warm jelly, and let it 
 stand till it is, cold, to fasten the fruit in its 
 place, otherwise it will rise up; then fill the 
 mould up with warm jelly, let it stand till it 
 is quite cold, then turn it into a dish, and 
 garnish it according to your own taste. 
 
 FRUIT, PRESERVED, REMARKS 
 ON USING. Preserved fruits should not be 
 baked long; those that have l>een preserved 
 with their full proportion of sugar, require 
 no baking; the crust should be baked in a 
 tin shape, and the fruit be ^afterward.- added; 
 or it may be put into a small dish or tart- 
 pans, and the covers be baked on a tin cut 
 out according to your taste. 
 
 FRUIT, TO PREPARE FOR BRANDY. 
 
 Take the proposed quantity of fruit, gather- 
 ed before they are perfectly ripe ; dry them 
 carefullv, prick and put them into cold water ; 
 when all in, set the vessel over a moderate 
 fire, keeping the water, however, constantly 
 nearly boiling, until die fruit will give to the 
 touch; then throw them, with great care, 
 into cold water again; drain away this wa- 
 ter, and add fresh; change the water t uice 
 more within a quarter of an hour, after 
 which, drain them for the last time, and |iut 
 them in bottles; if any of the fruit is the 
 least broken or bruised, it must be put aside, 
 as it would spoil the rest. In the mean- 
 while, take a proper quantity of sugar (as a 
 pound and a half for twenty-live peache*)j 
 clarify and boil it to la nappe; measure, 
 and put double its quantity of good brandy; 
 mix and jiour them into a glazed pan; let 
 them stand awhile, and then pour the mix- 
 ture on the fruit.
 
 <; \ M 
 
 83 
 
 GAM 
 
 FRUIT TO PREPARE FOR CHIL- 
 DREN. Put apples sliced, or plums, cur- 
 rum-, iroonclierries, t v,.. ;,,, : , stone j;ir, and 
 sprinkle ;i.- Hindi l.islxin sugar as necessary 
 among them ; place the jar on a hot hearth, 
 or in :i s:iuce|>an of water, and let it remain 
 till the fruit is perfectly done. Slices of 
 bread or riee may Ix^ stewed witli tlie fruit, 
 or the fruit may be eaten with slices of dry 
 bread, or with rice, plain boiled. 
 
 G. 
 
 < i \ M T. In choosing venison, the fat of 
 that which is good is thick , clear, and bright ; 
 the clift part smooth and close. When the 
 veni- ia is |x'ifecily fresh, it is hung in a cool 
 place, ami carefully wiped dry every day. 
 When extreme tenderness is required from 
 long keeping. Ixit without its having a high 
 flavor, it is well rubbed over with powdered 
 charcoal. 
 
 Tlie haunch is the prime joint, and when 
 
 .aired to be roasted, it is lirst well 
 washed in lukewarm milk-and-water, and 
 then made i|iiile dry l>ef >re it is spitted. It 
 is then co\ered with a slieet of well-buttered 
 white pajxT, over which is laiii 
 paste of tloiir-and- water, about a quarter of 
 an inch thick; thin is again covered with 
 buttered white |xi|x-r, and tied on with pack- 
 thread. A substantial fire being made, the 
 haunch is put d.iwn, and constantly basted 
 with freijh beef dripping, till nearly done, 
 when the IM.-IC is taken oil", the meat well 
 basted with butter, ami lightly dredged with 
 flour, till it froths anil becomes of a line lijiht 
 brown color. It i> signed with its own gra- 
 vy in the dish, if there be enough of it; also 
 a sauce tureen of good brown gravy, and 
 one of currant jelly sauce beat up, and melt- 
 ed with a little I'ort wine and sugar. 
 
 \ : haunch takes about four hours to 
 roast. 
 
 A neck and shoulder, when roasted, is 
 managed in the tame wav as the haunch, 
 omitting the (Kiste; but it is more frequently 
 used tin soups, pasties, and colloji-. 
 
 -When fresh, the body is stiff; 
 ami if \"iin_', the claws are smooth and 
 sharp, the ears tender and easily torn. 
 Hares arc kept from a week to a fortnight 
 for roasting; but for soup, they cannot have 
 been too recently killed. 
 
 Rabbits are chosen by the same rules as 
 
 Wild fowl, in general, is chosen 1>\ tlie 
 same rules as tame poultry. Tlie binls 
 should In- plump and fat, and hard in tlie 
 vent. If the skin comes o(V wlien ruldied 
 hard with the linger, they are stale. Old 
 birds improve by keeping for sometime; 
 
 young birds are best if dressed soon; and 
 small birds, of all descriptions, should be 
 immediately dressed. In warm -weather, a 
 stop|x-r of charcoal should be put into the 
 vent of all game, and a string tied tightly 
 round the neck. 
 
 To roast pheasants and partridge.-, they 
 are picked, cleaned, and nicely singed; a 
 slit is made in the back part of tlie neck, and 
 the craw taken out, leaving on the head, tlie 
 feet twisted closely to the body, the claws 
 cut off, and tlie head turned under the wing. 
 Both sorts are roasted by the directions for 
 roasting a turkey or a fowl. A pheasant is 
 served with gravy in the dih ; partridges 
 with a gravy, or laid upon buttered toast, 
 and melted Uitter poured round them. Bread 
 sauce is served with both. A pheasant will 
 require nearly an hour to roast ; partridges 
 half an hour. Guinea and pea-tow I arc 
 roasted in the same way as pheasants. 
 
 To roast black-cock, follow the directions 
 for roast ing pheasants and partri 
 will require an hour, and is served with gra- 
 vy in the dish, and bread sauce in a sauce 
 tureen. 
 
 Moorfowl are roasted in the same manner, 
 and require three-quarters of an hour. They 
 may be served upon buttered toast, or with 
 ura\y in the dish, and bread sauce in a sauce 
 tureen. 
 
 To restore tainted game or poultry, pick 
 it carefully, clean, and wash it, then put into 
 each bird a little newly-made pounded char- 
 coal, tied in a bit of muslin. Before sen ing, 
 take out the bag, which will have a most 
 olVen.-.ive smell, while tlie bird will be left 
 (HTtectly sweet. 
 
 To roast u ild duck. It should he roasted 
 by a ((nick lire, well basted with butter, and 
 browned. It will require miirly three-quar- 
 ters of an hour, and when to be served, some 
 beef gravy is poured through the duck into 
 the dish, and in a sauce tureen some hot 
 Port wine is served. The carver makes 
 four cuts along the breast, it is then sprin- 
 kled with salt and a little Cayenne, tlie juice 
 of half a lemon is squeezed over it, and the 
 Port wine is then poured all over. 
 
 To roast a- wild goose, the same directions 
 are followed as for wild duck, allowing 
 more time to roast it, according to tlie size 
 of the bird. 
 
 Widgeons and teal are dressed in the 
 same manner as the wild duck, and are 
 roasted in ten minutes, and may be serrod 
 upon fried bread crumbs. 
 
 Woodcocks and snipes are roasted with* 
 out bein<f drawn ; a piece of toasted bread 
 buttered is put under each bird, to catch the 
 trail; they are well booted with butter, and 
 served upon the hot toast over which they 
 were roasted ; a rich brown- gravy, or melt- 
 ed butter, is poured round them. Wood-
 
 G A M 
 
 84 
 
 GAT 
 
 cocks will require half an hour, snipes and 
 quails fifteen or twenty minutes to roast. 
 
 Ortolans and green plovers are not drawn, 
 and are roasted and served in the same 
 manner as woodcocks. f 
 
 To roast larks, wheatears, and other 
 small birds, tliey are nicely picked, gutted, 
 cleaned, and trussed; brushed over with 
 melted butter, and rolled in grated bread, 
 then spitted on a bird spit, which is fastened 
 upon a. larger one. They are basted with 
 butter, and sprinkled with some bread 
 crumbs. They will require nearly fifteen 
 minutes to roast, and are served upon fried 
 bread crumbs, and brown gravy in a sauce 
 tureen. 
 
 Wild pigeons may be roasted, or made 
 into a pie. 
 
 Plovers' eggs are boiled hard, and served 
 in a napkin, or with green moss put round 
 each in the dish. 
 
 GAME, ESSENCE OF. Take four 
 rabbits, four partridges, two pounds of veal, 
 two pounds of steaks; put them into a 
 stewpan, with a bottle of white wine; boil 
 them until the whole is entirely reduced to 
 a jelly ; then add to it broth, and consomme, 
 (equal quantities of each), eight carrots, ten 
 onions, three cloves, a little thyme and ba- 
 sil; let the whole boil very gently, until the 
 meat is quite done ; then strain it through a 
 napkin. No salt need be put into it, as the 
 broth and consomme are sufficiently season- 
 ed to flavor the essence of game. 
 
 GAME FRITTERS. Take any of 
 those parts of cold roasted game, which can 
 be cut into thin slices, dip them into good 
 batter, and fry them in olive oil, or lard. 
 Sprinkle the fritters when done, with salt 
 and spices, pounded very fine. 
 
 GAME HASHED. See Fowl. 
 
 GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE. Pound 
 half a dozen cloves of garlic; rub them 
 through a silk sieve, with a wooden spoon ; 
 put this into a mortar with some butter, and 
 beat it until thoroughly incorporated; then 
 put this butter into any sauce you please. 
 
 GARLIC, ESSENCE OF. Take an 
 
 earthen skillet, place it on the fire, and put 
 into it a bottle of white wine, half a glass of 
 vinegar, the juice of two lemons, six cloves 
 of garlic, the same number of cloves, the 
 quarter of a nutmeg, and two bay-leaves: 
 when near boiling, reduce the fire, and let it 
 stand on hot ashes for seven or eight hours ; 
 strain it through a coarse sieve, and then 
 filter it. Keep it in very closely corked 
 bottles. A very small quantity ot this es- 
 sence is requisite to impart its flavor to a dish. 
 
 GARLIC GRAVY. Slice a pound and 
 a h.ilf nf veal, or U (('; season it with j)op- 
 |>er and salt; put it into a stewpan, with 
 two carrots split, and four dines of Bailie 
 sliced, a quarter of a pound of sliced ham, 
 and a large spoonful of water; put the stew- 
 pan over a gentle fire, ant) watch when the 
 meat begins to stick to the pan; when it 
 does, turn it, and let it U' very well browned, 
 (but take care that it is not in the least 
 burnt) ; then dredge it with flour, and pour 
 in a quart of broth, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 a couple of cloves bnii>ed, and slice in a 
 lemon; set it on the fire again, then let it 
 simmer gently for an hour and a half longer; 
 then skim oft' the fat, and strain off the gra- 
 vy, by pouring it through a napkin, strain- 
 ing and pressing it very hard. 
 
 GATEAU DE COMPIEGXE. Take 
 
 three pounds of flour, two pounds of butter, 
 an ounce and four drachms of yeast, an 
 ounce of silt, a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 a glass of cream, twelve yolks and twelve 
 whole eggs, and five or six spoonfuls of 
 whipped cream. 
 
 With these ingredients proceed as follows: 
 sift the flour, of which put a fourth part on 
 the slab, make a hole in the middle, put into 
 it a glass of warm water and the \east ; mix 
 them together as lightly, and with as much 
 despatch as possible, adding more warm 
 water if necessary ; when well worked up 
 for some minutes, gather it together, (it 
 ought to leave the slab and the hand lively) , 
 put it into a saucepan ; cover it, and place 
 it in a tolerably warm situation to rise. 
 Take the rest of the flour, lay it on the slab 
 make a hole in the middle of it, in which 
 put the salt, sugar, and cream ; stir these 
 together well, and then put in the eggs, one 
 at a time, (break them into a basin, incase 
 all should not be good) ; the eg^s lx?ing put 
 in, add by decrees the butter, stirring them 
 well; then mix the flour, a little at a time, 
 with the alxivc, until the wholo is formed 
 into a smooth paste; more ei^s must be 
 added if it be too stiff; work it up a little, 
 and then add the leaven ; work that in; and 
 lastly, put in the whipped cream. The 
 whole operation being thus [x-rfonned, have 
 ready a cylindrical fluted mould, (about 
 eight inches in diameter, and nine in height) ; 
 butter it by means of a gponge, being care- 
 fill that it is done in all parts, otherwise the 
 gateau will adhere to it ; place the mould 
 in a moderately warm place, but wtere 
 there is a free current of air. When the ga- 
 teau has risen so as to fill the mould, and 
 the surface is a little inflated, it should be 
 put into the oven instantly, if not, it falls and 
 becomes heavy. The oven must be of a 
 moderate heat, and kept closed while the 
 gateau is baking ; take it out in about an
 
 GHE 
 
 85 
 
 hour, and if it be flexible and light colored, 
 replace it for thirty or forty minutes; but 
 if, on die contrary, it is red, and firm to the 
 touch, place a tin plate on the top, and put 
 it in the oven till dune; reiimxe the mould 
 with care, and the gateau is lini-'ued. If 
 die mould does not come away quite so well 
 as it ought, strike it gently with a spatula. 
 When taken out, put it in the oven for a few 
 minutes tu dry. 
 
 This gateau is sometimes varied by the 
 addition of six omi'-es of sugared anise, and 
 the same quantity of dry currants. 
 
 GATEAU DE POMMES. Boil in a 
 pint of water one pound and a half of loaf 
 sugar till it become a rich sirup ; weigh 
 two pounds of apples after they have lieen 
 peeled, cored, and cut small ; boil tliem in 
 the sirup widi the grated peel and juice of a 
 large lemon till they are reduced to a pulp; 
 put it into a mould. The fiilloxving day 
 serve it, turned out in a glass dish, widi a 
 rich custard. 
 
 GERMAN PUFFS. (1) Mixvm- well 
 with txxo large table-spoonfuls of flour, a quar- 
 ter of a pint of cream, txxo well-lx-aten eggs, 
 and a tea-spoonful of grated nut meg. a xery 
 litde salt, and one ounce of butter beaten to 
 a cream ; bake it in buttered cups for twen- 
 ty or thirty minutes; turn them out upon a 
 Jisli, and serve them instantly; pour a sweet 
 sauce round tliem. 
 
 GERMAN PUFFS. (2) Beat to a 
 
 cream a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 blanch and pound one ounce of sweet almonds 
 xxith a little rose water, beat lixe yolks ami 
 three xxhites of eggs; mix all together xxith 
 I ahl> -*[>> ton fills of tlour, and sxxeelen 
 
 it with jxiunded loaf sugar; bake it in but- 
 tered cups, and serve them widi a sweet 
 
 GHERKINS OR CUCUMBERS PICK- 
 LEU. Choose gherkins very green and 
 straight, brush, and place a layer in a pan, 
 sprinkle diem widi fine salt, then another lay- 
 er of gherkins, xxhich sprinkle xx ilh salt also, 
 and continue this operation until you IIHXC 
 used nearly a bushel of glierkins, leave diem 
 in the salt for txveuty-fi uir hours, xxhich will 
 draxx all the xxater from diem; at the end 
 of that lime drain and place diem in ajar, 
 xxith a handful of allspice, the same of tarra- 
 gon, a little lialm, ten shallots, six cloves of 
 garlic, two or diree long peppers, twenty 
 cloxis, H lemon cut in quarters, and two 
 small handful* of salt. Boil txxo gallons of 
 die I >est xincgar, pour it oxer die gherkins, 
 and let them stand till tin- next da\ . \xhen 
 boil the vinegar a second lime, and [xxir it 
 on again; die following claxU.il the xine- 
 t 8 
 
 gar for the third 
 the gherkins, - J 
 jar with a w 
 
 last time, pour it over 
 :n quite cold, cover the 
 
 uncut. 
 
 GIBLET PIE. See Pies. 
 
 GIBLETS STEWED, (.lean tx'vo sets 
 of giblets, put them into a saucepan, just 
 cover tliem widi cold xxater, and set them on 
 tlie tire; when they boil, take off the scum, 
 and put in an onion, three cloves, or two blades 
 of mace, a fexv berries of black pepper, the 
 same of allspice, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt; cover die stewjian close, and let it simmer 
 very gently till the giblets are quite tender: 
 this xx ill take from one hour and a half to 
 two and a half, according to the age of the 
 giblets; the pinions will be done first, and 
 must then In- taken out, and put in again to 
 xx arm xxhen the gizzards are done: watch 
 them that they do not get too much done: 
 take them out and thicken the sauce with 
 tlour and butter; let it boil half an hour, or 
 till there is just enough to eat xxith die gib- 
 lets, and then strain it through a tamis into 
 a clean stewpan ; cut the giblets into moudi- 
 liils ; put them into die sauce widi die juice 
 of luilf a lemon, a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup; pour die whole into a soup- 
 disli, with sippets of bread at die bottom. 
 Ox-tails prepared in die same way are ex- 
 cellent eating. 
 
 (JINGERBREAD. Rub one pound of 
 Ixittcr well into diree pounds of flour; dicn 
 add one pound of powder-sugar, one pound 
 ot treacle, and txx o ounces of ginger pounded 
 and sifted very tine ; one nutmeg grated very 
 fine; then wanna quarter of a pint of cream, 
 and mix all together; you may add carra- 
 xx ax s and sweetmeats if you choose; make 
 it into a stiff paste, and bake it in a slow 
 oxen. It cake or biscuits are kept in paper 
 or a drawer, tliey will acquire a disagreeable 
 taste. A pan and cover, or tureen, will 
 preserve diem long and moist; or if to be 
 crisp, laying diem before die fire will make 
 
 thi -m SO. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, AMERICAN. See 
 American. 
 
 GINGERBREAD WITHOUT BUT- 
 TER. Mix two pounds of treacle ; of or- 
 ange, lemon, citron, and candied ginger, 
 each four ounces, all thinly sliced ; one ounce 
 of coriander-seeds, one ounce of canlways, 
 and one ounce of beaten ginger, in as much 
 paste as will make a soft paste; lay it in 
 cakes or tin plates, and bake it in a quick 
 ox in. Keep it dry in a covered earthen 
 vessel, and it will be good for some months. 
 
 . <.IN<;ERBREAD INDIAN. Tak
 
 GIN 
 
 86 
 
 GIN 
 
 twelve ounces of pounded loaf sugar, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of fresh batter, one pound of 
 dried flour, two ounces of pounded ginger, 
 and of cloves and cinnamon a quarter of an 
 ounce each. Mix the ginger and the spice 
 with the .flour; put the sugar and a small 
 tea-cupful of water into a saucepan ; when 
 it is dissolved, add the butter, and as soon 
 as it is melted, mix it with the flour and 
 other things; work it up, and form the 
 paste into cakes or nuts, and bake them 
 upon tins. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, LAFAYETTE. 
 
 Five eggs ; half a pound of brown sugar ; half 
 a pound of fresh butter ; a pint of sugar-house 
 molasses ; a pound and a half of flour ; four 
 table-spoonfuls of ginger; two large sticks of 
 cinnamon; three dozen grains of allspice; 
 three dozen of cloves ; the juice and grated 
 peel of two lemons. Stir the butter and su- 
 gar to a cream ; beat the eggs very well ; 
 pour the molasses at once, into the butter 
 and sugar. Add the ginger and other spice, 
 and stir all well together. Put in the egg 
 and Hour alternately, stirring all the time. 
 Stir the whole very hard, and put in the 
 lemon at the last. When the whole is mix- 
 ed, stir it till very light. Butter an earthen 
 pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the 
 gingerbread in it. Bake it in a moderate 
 oven, an hour or more, according to its 
 thickness. Take care that it do not burn. 
 Or you may bake it in small cakes, or lit- 
 tle tins. Its lightness will be much improv- 
 ed by a small tea-spoonful of pear lash dis- 
 solved in a lea-spoonful of vinegar, and stir- 
 red lightly in at the last. Too much pearl- 
 ash will give it an unpleasant taste. If you 
 use pearlash, you must omit the lemon, as 
 its taste will Ix; entirely destroyed by the 
 pearlash. You may substitute for the lem- 
 on some raisins and currants, well floured 
 to prevent their sinking. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. (1) Take four 
 
 pounds of flour, half a pound of sifted sugar, 
 an iiunct! of caraway-seeds, half an ounce 
 of ginger pounded and sifted, six ounces of 
 fresh butter, and two ounces of candied or- 
 ange-peel cut into small slices ; then take a 
 pound of treacle or honey, and a gill of 
 cream, make them warm together; mix it, 
 with all the ingredients, into a paste, and j 
 let it lay six hours; then roll it out, make it 
 into nuts, and kike them in a moderate oven. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. (2) Take 
 one pound of dried and sifted flour, one 
 pound of treacle, three ounces of brown su- 
 gar, four ounces of fresh butter, one ounce 
 and a half of pounded and sifted giner, <>f 
 candied orange-peel and citron, cut small, 
 three-quarters of an ounce each ; melt the 
 
 butter with the treacle, and when it is about 
 milk-wann, add it to the flour and other 
 ingredients, and then mix all well together; 
 with a spoon drop the nuts upon buttered 
 tins, and bake them. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. (3) Dis- 
 solve a quarter of a pound of butter in three- 
 quarters of a pound of treacle, put it into a 
 pan large enough to contain the rest of the 
 ingredients, and when almost cold, stir in 
 one pound of dried and sifted flour, half a 
 pound of coarse brown sugar, half an ounce 
 of caraway seeds, three-quarters of an ounce 
 of pounded ginger, and the grated peel of a 
 lemon ; mix all these well together, and let 
 it stand till it be stiff, or till the following 
 day, then make it into nuts, by pinching it 
 into pieces with the finger and thumb. 
 Bake them upon buttered tins in a quick 
 oven. Half an ounce of coriander seeds 
 may be added. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. (4) Rub 
 half a pound of butter into two pounds of 
 flour; add one pound of coarse sugar, and 
 one ounce of pounded ginger; mix all well 
 together with one pound and two ounces of 
 treacle; form it into nuts, or roll it out, and 
 cut it into round cakes; bake them upon 
 tins. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, OATMEAL. Sift 
 four pounds of oatmeal, and mix with it four 
 pounds of treacle, half a pound of brown su- 
 gar, tlie same quantity of melted butter, and 
 three-quarters of an ounce of powdered gin- 
 ger. Work it all well together, let it re- 
 main for twenty-four hours, and then make 
 it into cakes. 
 
 GINGER BEER. See Beer. 
 
 GINGER CAKES. Put four pounds of 
 flour upon the dresser; then take a copper 
 saucepan, and break into it six eggs, and 
 mix them well with a spoon; add one pint 
 of cream to them, and beat them well; put 
 the saucepan over the fire, stir till your mix- 
 ture is warm ; put two pounds of butter into 
 the cream and eggs, and one pound of sugar, 
 and keep stirring it over a very slow fire, 
 just to melt all the butler; put in four ounces 
 of pounded ginger, and as soon as all the 
 butter is melted, pour it all into the middle 
 of the flour; mix it as well as you possibly 
 can, till it becomes a fine paste; then roll it 
 out with flour under it on your dresser; cut 
 them to the size of the top of a tea-cup, a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness; and before 
 you put them into die oven (which should be 
 very hot), place three papers under them. 
 
 GINGER IMITATION. Peel off the
 
 GL A 
 
 87 
 
 GOO 
 
 outer coat of the tender stems of lettuce that is 
 short, cut it into bits one or (wo i <-hy long, 
 and llmnv it into cold water; to -ach jxmml 
 put in a tea-spoonfiil of Caycin c, and a 
 little salt ; let it stand one or two days; al- 
 low an equal pro|xntion of line loaf sugar, 
 which clarify. Soak some good ginger in 
 hot water, slice it, and add il to tlw siiijar, 
 allow ing one ounce and a half to the pound, 
 and IK >il it lor fifteen minutes; strain off the 
 water from tlie lettuce, and pour over it 
 the sirup, keeping back the ginger, with 
 which the sirup must be boiled three times, 
 and poured over the lettuce, two or three 
 days intervening between each boiling ; and 
 at la.-t add the strained juice of one or two 
 lemons. 
 
 GLACE, ROYAL. Put the white of a 
 new-laid egg into a pan, and mix with it a 
 sufficient quantity of white powder-sugar to 
 make a glace or icing, neither too dry nor 
 too liquid; beat it well, and add a little 
 lemon-juice to whiten it. By mixing with 
 tin- glace, carmine, saffron, indigo, spi- 
 nach-juice, &c. ; it will be either rose-col- 
 ored, yellow, blue, green, &c. according to 
 your tnsto 
 
 GLAZE. (1) Take the remains of 
 any liquor in which meat has been cooked, 
 and .-train it through a silk sieve until quite 
 clear; then put it into a saucepan and re- 
 duce it over a brisk fire: as soon as it is 
 sufficiently done, that is, when it sticks to 
 the spoon, put it into a smaller saucepan, 
 and set it in the bain-marie; when wanted, 
 add a small piece of fresh butter to it, to 
 correct iln saJtness. 
 
 GLAZE. (2) Make a consomme with 
 whatever remnants of fowls or meat that may 
 be in the home; strain it, and then put it on 
 the lire with two or three whites of eggs 
 beaten to a snow; stir till it boils, and then 
 set on tin- side of the stove, and place fire 
 on the saucepan lid ; as soon as the eggs are 
 set, (KISS the glaze through a wet cloth ; re- 
 duce this OUT a lari, r i' lire, stirring it con- 
 stantly with a wooden sjxion to prevent its 
 ticking; then |xmr it into a pot for use. 
 When wanted, put a small quantity of it in- 
 to a sanri-|>an, and make it hot over a slow 
 fire; and, in this state, lay it gently over 
 such articles as may require glazing, In' 
 means of a feather. 
 
 (il.A/K. (3) Desire the butcher to break 
 the Ixines of a leg or a shin of Iwef, of ten 
 pounds weight (tin; fresher killed the better) ; 
 put it into a s<Hip-|x>t (a digester is the best 
 nten-il lor (his |>irjx.se) that will well hold 
 it; just cover it with cold water, and set it 
 on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly 
 
 boils (this should U- at least an hour); skim 
 it attentnely while any scum rises; |xmr in 
 a little cold water, to throw up the scum 
 that may remain ; let it come to a boil again, 
 and again skim it carefully: when no more 
 scum rises, and the broth appears clear (put 
 ill neither roots, nor ln-rlis, nor salt), let it 
 boil {or eight or ten hours, and then strain 
 it through a hair sieve into a l>ro\\n stone 
 pan ; set tlie broth where it will cool quicklv ; 
 put the meat into a sieve, let it drain, make 
 potted beef, or it will be very acceptable to 
 many poor families. Next day remove 
 every particle of fat from the top of it, and 
 pour it through a tamis, or fine sieve, as 
 quietly as possible, into a stewpan, taking 
 care not to let any of the settlings at the 
 bottom of the stone pan go into the stewpan, 
 which should be of thick copper, perfectly 
 well tinned ; add a quarter of an ounce of 
 whole black |x-p|r to it; let it boil briskly, 
 with the stewpan uncovered, on a quick 
 fire ; if any scum rises, take it off with a 
 skimmer : when it begins to thicken, and is 
 reduced to about a quart, put it into a smal- 
 ler stewpan ; set it over a gentler fire, till k 
 is reduced. 
 
 GODIVEAU. Take fillet of veal or 
 breasts of fowl or game, fresh pork or 
 sausage meat, beef-marrow or suet, equal 
 quantities of each, veal sweetbreads, truf- 
 fles, and mushrooms; season these articles 
 with pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, all in 
 powder; pound them all together, and 
 put in (one at a time) the yolks of eggs; 
 pour in also a little water, pounding con- 
 tinually, until it is reduced to a sort of paste. 
 Make a small ball of it, which Ixiil in a 
 little water to ascertain wliethcr it lie suf- 
 ficiently salt; sweet lierbs may be added 
 when you are about to use it. Tlie gottiveau 
 is used as a farce for lourles and hot pie*. 
 
 GOOSE, TO CHOOSE. Be careful 
 in choosing a goose, that tlie bill and feet 
 are yellow, as it will be young: when old 
 the feet and bill are red. When they are 
 fresh the feet are pliable; if stale they are 
 dry and stiff. Green geese are in < 
 from May or June, till they are three montltt 
 old; they should Ix' scalded. A stubble 
 gootte is good till it is five or six months 
 old, and should be picked dry. 
 
 GOOSE ROASTED. A stubble goose 
 
 should lie smiled with sage and onions, 
 chopped small, and mixed with |icp|>er and 
 salt ; boil the sage and onion in a little w- 
 ter before they are chopped, or mix a few 
 bread cmmlis with them wlien cho|>ped ; 
 either will render them less strong. 1'ut it 
 fir.-t at a distaee iVom tlie fire, and by de- 
 grees draw it nearer. A slip of paper
 
 GOO 
 
 88 
 
 GR A 
 
 should be skewered on the breast bone. 
 Baste it very well. When the breast is 
 rising, take off the paper, and be careful to 
 serve it before die breast falls, it will be 
 spoiled by coming to table flattened. Serve 
 it with good gravy and apple sauce, in 
 boats. It will take about an hour and a 
 half to roast. 
 
 GOOSE TO TRUSS. The goose must 
 be first well picked and stubbed, then cut 
 off the pinions at the first joint, and the 
 feet also. Make a slit in the liack of the 
 neck, and take out the throat, cut off die 
 neck close to the l>aek and the skin, but 
 leave enough to turn over the back ; make a 
 slit between the vent and the rump, through 
 which draw out the entrails, then wipe it 
 clean. Draw the legs up, keeping them 
 close to the side, then put a skewer into 
 die wing, through the middle of the leg, 
 body, and die leg and wing on die odier 
 side ; put another skewer dirough the small 
 of the leg, which keep close to die sidesmen ; 
 nm it dirough, and do the same on die oth- 
 er side. Cut through die end of die vent, 
 dirough which put die rump, to prevent the 
 stuffing from falling out. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CREAM. Boil one 
 quart of gooseberries very quick, in as much 
 water as will covet diem: stir in about half 
 an ounce of good butter; when they are 
 soft, pulp them dirough a sieve; sweeten 
 die pulp while it is hot, with sugar, dien 
 beat it up widi die yolks of four eggs ; serve 
 in a dish, cups, or glasses. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY FOOL. Put goose- 
 berries into a stone jar, with some fine su- 
 gar; put the jar either in a stove, or in a 
 saucepan of water, over the fire; if in a 
 stove, a large spoonful of water should be 
 added to the fruit. When it is done to pulp, 
 press it through a colander ; have ready a 
 sufficient quantity of new milk, and a tea- 
 cupful of raw cream', boiled togedier, or 
 you may use an egg instead of the cream ; 
 leave it to get cold, then sweeten well with 
 fine sugar, and mix die pulp by degrees 
 with it. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY MARMALADE. Boil 
 diem a moment, or only scald them in boil- 
 ing water, sift diem dirough a sieve ; reduce 
 them ova- die fire to half, then mix diem 
 with sugar prepared to the nindi degree (a 
 la grande plume), half a pound of sugar to 
 a pound of fruit. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JAM. See Jam. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY PASTE. Gather, 
 when quite ripe, die rough red gooseberries ; 
 
 top and tail them ; put them into a jar, tie 
 it over with bladder, and boil it in a pot 
 of water till the fruit lie perfectly soft; pour 
 off the thin juice, and with a wooden s|K>on 
 nib the Kooeeberriea through a fine hair 
 sis \e ; allow rather more than half the 
 weight of the pulp of pounded loaf sugar, 
 mix it together, and boil it till it will jelly, 
 which will take almost two hours; stir, and 
 skim it, then put it into a dish, and serve 
 when cold, to be eaten with cream. The 
 thin juice may be Ixjiled with its weight x of 
 good brown sugar, and used as gooseberry 
 jelly. 
 
 GOURDS FRIED. (1) Cut five or six 
 gourds in quarters; take off die skin and 
 pulp; stew them in the same manner as for 
 table: when done, drain them quite dry; 
 beat up an egg, and dip the gourds in it, 
 and cover diem well over with bread-numbs ; 
 make some hog's-lard hot, and fry them a 
 nice light color; dirow a little salt and 
 pepper over them, and serve up quite dry. 
 
 GOURDS FRIED. (2) Take six or 
 
 eight small gourds, as near of a size as pos- 
 sible ; slice them widi a cucumber-ehce; 
 dry them in a cloth, and then fry them in 
 very hot lard; throw over a little pepper and 
 salt, and serve up on a napkin. Great at- 
 tention is requisite to do diese well ; if the 
 fat is quite hot diey are done in a minute, 
 and will soon spoil ; if not hot enough, diey 
 will eat greasy and tough. 
 
 GOURDS STEWED. Take off all 
 
 the skin of six or eight gourds, put them in- 
 to a stewpan, widi water, saU, lemon-juice, 
 and a bit of butter, or fat bacon, and let 
 them stew gently till quite tender, and serve 
 up with a rich Dutch sauce, or any odier 
 sauce you please dial is piquante. 
 
 GRAPES, COMPOTE. Boil a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar with half a <;lass of wa- 
 ter, till it is reduced to a strong simp ; skim, 
 and dien put into it a pound of ^r.i| is, pick- 
 ed from the stalks, and the seeds taken out; 
 give diem a boil two or three tin. 
 then place them in a dessert diMi: if there is- 
 any scum IIJKJII them, carefully wi|>e it off 
 with white paper. 
 
 GRAPES, PICKLED. The ra|x* 
 must be at dieir full growth, but not ripe, 
 cut diem in small bunches ; put them in a 
 stone jar, with vine leave.- Ix-tween each 
 layer of grapes, till the jar is full; then take 
 as much spring-water as will cover the 
 grapes and die leaves ; as it heats put in ;is 
 much salt ag will make a brine sufficiently 
 strong to l>ear an egg ; you must use half 
 bay salt and half common salt; when it
 
 GR A 
 
 89 
 
 GRA 
 
 boils, skim it; strain it through a flannel 
 bai:, and let it stand to settle; by the limt: it 
 IB cold it will be quite settled ; strain it a 
 second time through a Manuel bag; then pour 
 it into UK- jar, ii|>oii llu- grapi'S, which must 
 be well covered ; till tin- jar itli \ ine leaves; 
 then tie it OUT with a double cloth, and set 
 a plate upon it; let it stand for two days, 
 then take off tin- cloth, pour away the brine, 
 and take out the leave? nnd the grapes, and 
 lay them Ijetween two cloths to dry; then 
 take two quarts of vinegar, one quart of 
 spring-water, and one |x>iind of coarse sugar, 
 lx)il it tor a short time, and skim it very 
 clean as it Ixiils ; let it stand till it is quite 
 cold; wipe the jar very clean and dry, lay 
 some fresh vine leaves at tlie bottom, Ix-tween 
 every bunch of grapes, and on the top; then 
 pour and strain the pickle on the grapes; 
 (ill tin- jar ; let the pickle lie alxive the <,'ra|x-s ; 
 tie up a thin piece of board in a Manuel, lay 
 it on the <riapui to keep them under the 
 pickle; tie them down with a bladder, and 
 over lh.it a leather. Always keep the grapes 
 under the pickle. 
 
 ( 1 1! VTI.N. Cut half a pound of fillet of 
 real into dice, and put it into a stewpan 
 with a piece of butter, a few mushrooms, 
 jyir.-ley. shallots chopped small, salt, pepper, 
 and spices; stir them up with a wooden 
 spt>n ; and when the meat has been on the 
 fire about a quarter of an hour, take the 
 drain off the butter, mince it very- small, and 
 put it into a mortar, with fifteen fowl or 
 game livers, well washed, dried, and par- 
 boiled, all the bitter parts taken out, ]xmnd 
 them, adding at times as much panada as 
 you have meal ; Ixiil .some call's udder, trim, 
 and remove all lite skin when cold, and put 
 atxMit ;t third of the quantity of meat, and 
 pound them together, adding, one at a time, 
 three volks, and three whole eggs; season 
 with -all, pepper, and spices; when well 
 pounded, set it by in an earthen pan for 
 use. 
 
 GRAVY. 
 
 Sauces. 
 
 See alto Cullin and 
 
 GRAVIES, DIRECTIONS RESPECT- 
 ING. The skirts of beef and the kidney, 
 will make quite as good gravy as any other 
 meat . it' prepared in the same manner. 
 
 The kidney <>f an ox, or the milt, makes 
 
 excellent gravy, cut all to pieces, and pre- 
 
 ther meat; and so will the shank 
 
 end of mutton that has been dressed, if much 
 
 gravy is not required. 
 
 Tiie shank-bones of mutton add greatly to 
 the richness of gravy; hut they should be 
 first w.-ll soaked, and scoured clean. 
 
 To ohtain the flavor of French cookery, 
 and to improve tlie taste of the gravies, tar- 
 s' 
 
 ragoo should be used; but it must not be 
 added till a short time before serving. 
 
 GRAVY. (1) Take three pounds of beef 
 steaks, two rabbits, (excepting the head* 
 and breasts), a knuckle of veal, five carrots, 
 >i\ onions, two cloves, two bay leaves, a 
 hunch of par.- ley and scallious ; put all these 
 into a stewpan, with two ladlesful of broth, 
 and set tliem over a good fire to reduce; 
 then cover the stove, and let the stewpan 
 stand over it, until the meat begins to give 
 out tlie gravy, and adheres slightly ; the jel- 
 ly at the liotiom of the stewpan ought to be 
 nearly black, and when that is the case, 
 take it from the stove, and let it stand for 
 ten minutes; then fill up the stewpan with 
 good broth, or water, (if the latter, not so 
 large a quantity) ; let this simmer for thre* 
 hours; skim and season it well. If water 
 is used instead of broth, the gravy must lie 
 strained before it is used. Gravy may also 
 be made of any pieces of ready dressed 
 meat, in die following manner: cut some 
 onions into slices, lay them at the bottom of 
 the stewpan, and the meat on them, with 
 the game ingredients as above, and two or 
 three glasses of water; then proceed in the 
 same manner as the other, until the bottom 
 of the stewpan is nearly black, when add 
 water according to die quantity of meat; 
 (Hit salt if necessary, and simmer the whole 
 for two hours; then strain it through a 
 sieve. 
 
 GRAVY. (2) Cut down into slices four 
 pounds of lean beef, rub the bottom of the 
 pot with Initter, and put in the- meat ; turn it 
 frequently till it Ix' well browned, and do it 
 slowly, tiieu add four quirts of cold water; 
 when it lias boiled two hours, put in two 
 dessert-spoonfuls of whole pepper, one car- 
 rot, and three onions; let it stew gently for 
 four hours longer, strain it, and when it in 
 required tor use, take off the fat. This gra- 
 vy answer* for all made dishes when brown 
 gravy sauce is used. 
 
 GRAVY AND STUFFING FOR 
 DUCKS. Boil all the giblets excepting tht 
 liver for an hour in a pint of water with a 
 chopped on ion, some salt and pepper; strain, 
 and add a very little browning, with a tea- 
 spoonful of coratch, and one of mushroom 
 ketchup; for the stuffing, mince the raw 
 liver with two sage leaves, a small onion, 
 some pepper and salt, a bit of butter, and 
 grated bread crumbs. 
 
 Send your sauces to table as hot as po- 
 sible. 
 
 Nothing can be more unsightly than the 
 surface of a sauce in a frozen state, or gar- 
 nished with grease on the top. Tlie best 
 way to get rid of this, Is to pass it through
 
 GRA 
 
 90 
 
 GRA 
 
 4 tatnis or napkin previous!}' soaked in cold 
 water; the coldness of the napkin will coag- 
 ulate the fat, and only suffer the pure gravy 
 to pass through: if any particles of fat re- 
 main, take them off by applying filtering pa- 
 per, as blotting paper is applied to writing. 
 Let your sauces boil up after you put in 
 wine, anchovy, or thickening, that their fla- 
 vors may be well blended with the other in- 
 gredients; and keep in mind that the 
 top- knot of COOKERY is, to entertain the 
 mouth without offending the stomach. 
 
 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. It is of 
 as much importance that the cook should 
 know how to make a boat of good gravy for 
 poultry, &c. as that it should be sent up of 
 proper complexion, and nicely frothed. 
 
 We shall endeavor to introduce to her all 
 the materials which give flavor in sauce 
 which is the essence of soup, and intended j 
 to contain more relish in a tea-spoonful 
 than the former does in a table-spoonful. 
 
 We hope to deserve as much praise from I 
 the economist as we do from the ban vivant; 
 as we have taken great pains to'introduce to 
 him the methods of making substitutes for 
 those ingredients, which are always expen- 
 sive, and often not to be had at all. Many 
 of these cheap articles are as savory and 
 as salutary as the dearer ones, and those who 
 have large families and limited incomes, will, 
 no doubtj be glad to avail themselves of 
 them. 
 
 The reader may rest assured, that wheth- 
 er he consults this book to diminish the ex- 
 pense or increase the pleasures of hospitality, 
 he will find all the information that was to 
 be obtained up to 1832, communicated in 
 the most unreserved and intelligible manner. 
 
 A great deal of the elegance of cookery 
 depends upon the accompaniments to each 
 dish being appropriate and well adapted 
 to it. 
 
 We can assure our readers, no attention 
 has been wanting on our part to render this 
 department of the work worthy of their pe- 
 rusal ; each receipt is the faithful narrative 
 of actual and repeated experiments, and has 
 received die most deliberate consideration 
 before it was here presented to them. It is 
 given in the most circumstantial manner, 
 and not in the technical and mysterious lan- 
 guage former writers on these subjects seem 
 to have preferred ; by which their directions 
 are useless and unintelligible to all who have 
 not regularly served an apprenticeship at the 
 stove. 
 
 It will be to very little purpose that I 
 have taken so much pains to teach how to 
 manage roasts and boils, if a cook cannot or 
 will not make the several sauces that are 
 usually sent up with them. 
 
 We have, therefore, endeavored to give 
 
 tlie plainest directions how to produce, with 
 the least trouble and ex|iense possible, all 
 the unions compositions the English kitchen 
 atlords; and lii>|K- to present such a whole- 
 some and palatable variety as will suit all 
 tastes and all |x>ckets, so that a cook may 
 give satisfaction in all families. The more 
 combinations of this sort she is acquainted 
 with, the better she will comprehend tin; 
 management of every one of them. 
 
 Let your sauces each display a decided 
 character; send up your plain sauces (oys- 
 ter, lobster, &c.) as pure as |x>ssible: they 
 should only taste of the materials from which 
 they take their name. 
 
 The imagination of most cooks is so in- 
 cessantly on the hunt for a relish, that they 
 seem to think they cannot make sauce snf'li- 
 cii-ntlv .-avory without putting into it every- 
 thing that ever was eaten; and supposing 
 every addition must bean improvement, they 
 frequently overpower the natural flavor of 
 their PLAIN SAUCES, by overloading them 
 with salt and spices, &c.: but, remember, 
 these will be deteriorated by any addition, 
 save only just salt enough to awaken the 
 palate. 
 
 On the contrary, of COMPOUND SAUCES ; 
 the ingredients should be so nicely propor- 
 tioned, that no one be predominant; so that 
 from the equal union of the combined fla- 
 vors such a fine mellow mixture is produced, 
 whose very novelty cannot fail of being ac- 
 ceptable to the persevering gourmand, if it 
 lias not pretensions to a permanent place at 
 his table. 
 
 An ingenious cook will form as endless a 
 variety of these compositions as a musician 
 with his seven notes, or a painter with his 
 colors; no part of her business oilers so fair 
 and frequent an opportunity to display her 
 abilities: SPICKS, HERBS, &c. are c.flen 
 very absurdly and injudiciously jumbled to- 
 gether. 
 
 Why have clove and allspice, or mace and 
 nutmeg, in the same sauce ; or marjoram, 
 thyme, and savory; or onions, leeks, es- 
 chalots, and garlic'! one will very well sup- 
 ply the place of the other, and the frugal 
 cook may save something considerable l>? 
 attending to this, to the advantage of her 
 employers, and her own time and trouble. 
 
 JCJ^ See SAUCES and CULLIS for 
 other important particulars. 
 
 GRAVIES, ESSENCE OF HAM 
 FOR. Pick off all the bits of meat from a 
 ham-bone, pound them, break the bone, and 
 put all into a saucepan, together with nearly 
 half a pint of water, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs; simmer gently for sometime, stirring 
 it occasionally ; then add a pint of gocd beef 
 gravy, and some pepper, and continue to 
 simmer it till it be well flavored with the
 
 GRA 
 
 91 
 
 GRA 
 
 herbs; strain, and keep it for improving rich 
 gravies and sauces of all descriptions. 
 
 GRAVV FOR BOILED MEAT, .May 
 
 be made with (tarings and Irimmin 1 .;*; nr 
 pour fnini :i quarter to half a jiint of the li- 
 quor in which the meat was Ixiiled, into tlie 
 tii.-h willi it, and pierce the inferior jxirt of 
 Uie joint with a sharp skewer. 
 
 GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. (1) 
 
 Most joint* will afford sufficient trimmings, 
 &.<. to make half a pint of plain jjravy, which 
 you may color with a few drops of In-owning: 
 for those that do not, about half an hour be- 
 fore you think the meat will Itc done, mix a 
 salt->|xioiifnl of <alt, with a lull quarter-put 
 
 of Ixiiliug water; drop this by degrees on 
 the brown parts of the joint; set a dish un- 
 der to catch it (the meat will soon brown 
 a<;aiii); srt it li\ ; as it cools, the fat will 
 float on thr sin lace; when tlie meat is ready, 
 carefully remove the fat, and warm up the 
 gravy, a.i.l |x>nr it into the dish. 
 
 The common method is, when the meal 
 is in the ii:>!i yon intend to .-mi! it up in, 
 to mix half a tca-s|x>onful of salt Ji a quarter 
 pint of boiling walur, and to drop some of 
 this ovi-i tin- corners and underside of tlie 
 meat, and to pour i he rest through the hole 
 \he spit came out of: some pierce the infe- 
 rior parts of the joints with a sharp skewer. 
 
 The following receipt was given us by a 
 very ood COOK: You may make good 
 brnwnia:: lor roast meat and poultry-, by 
 saving the brown bits of roast meat or broil- 
 ed ; cm them small, put tliem into a basin, 
 cover them with boiling water, and put them 
 away till next day ; tlwn put il into a sauoe- 
 jian. let it boil two or three inimili--. -tiain 
 it tliroiiu'h a sieve into a basin, and put it 
 use. When you want gravy for 
 roast meat, put two tahle-|K>onfnls into half 
 a pint of Ixn'ling water with a little sail: if 
 for rousted veal, put three tahlc-Kpooniul* 
 into half a pint of thin melted butter. 
 
 The gravy which comes down in the dish, 
 tlie cook (if she is a good hoii>ewife) will 
 prir-eive to enrich hashes or little made 
 dislie- , xi . 
 
 (iUAVV FOR ROAST MEAT. (2) 
 
 About a ijnartrr of :ui hour before llie meat 
 i* taken from the fire, put a common dish 
 with a tea-sjxxmnil of salt in it under the 
 meal; when it lias all run into the di.-li, re- 
 move il, baste and froth the meat, and pour 
 the gravy into the dish on which tlie roast is 
 rwA 
 
 <;K\VY M\DE FROM BONES. 
 
 Break int < small pieces a pound of beef, 
 mutton, or \eal bones, if mixed together o 
 much the better ; boil them in two quarts of 
 
 water, and after it boils, let it simmer for 
 nearly tluree hours : boil with it a couple of 
 onions, a Inim-h of sweet herbs, some salt 
 and pepper; strain, and keep it for making 
 gravy or sauces. Tile bones of broiled and 
 roasted meat being scraped, washed clean, 
 and Ixiiled in lees water, answer equally well 
 tor this (Hirjwse. 
 
 GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT. 
 
 (1) Slice three onions, and fry them brown 
 in a little butter; add them to half a pint 
 of water, and tlie same of .beer, put in some 
 peppercorns, salt, a little lemon peel, three 
 cloves, a little mace or pepper, a spoonful 
 of wall ml pickle, and one of mushroom 
 ketchup, of soy and essence of anchovy a 
 dessert-spoonful each, a small bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a quarter of a slice of bread 
 toasted brown on bodi sides; simmer all to- 
 gether in a closely covered saucepan for 
 twenty minutes, then strain it for use, and 
 when cold take off the fat. It w ill taste 
 exactly like a gravy made with meat. 
 
 GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT. 
 
 (2) Knead a good deal of flour into a piece 
 of butter the size of an egg, fry it in a fry- 
 ing-pan over a clear fire, stir it constantly 
 with a wooden spoon till it become a nice 
 brown color, taking particular care that it 
 lie made perfectly smooth; pour in some 
 boiling water, add a little finely-minced on- 
 ion, some whole pepper and a little salt, put 
 it into a small saucepan, cover it closely, 
 and simmer it for a short time ; strain, and 
 mix with it a little mushroom ketchup, and 
 IWt wine. 
 
 GRAVY OR Rial CULLIS. Cut 
 
 into slices gome lean beef, veal, and mutton, 
 cover the ItoHoiu of die saucepan with the 
 veal, then put in a few slices of salt pork, 
 next a lav er of l>eef, add a few onions sliced, 
 and the red |>art of one or two carrots, u 
 little mace, two or three cloves, some whole 
 pepper, and two or three bay-leaves, above 
 that the mutton; cover tlie pan closely, MJ| it 
 on a slow (ire, and when the meat is a fin* 
 brown, mix quite smooth a small quantity 
 of Hour in water, stir it in, and then add an 
 much Ixiiling water as will cover the inc::t 
 well, and a little salt ; cover tlie pan closely, 
 and let it stew an hour and a half; strain, 
 and keep it for use; it will continue good for 
 eight or ten days. 
 
 GRAVY DRAWN. Put a few pound, 
 of gravy-beef sliced, and a liltle whole- 
 pepper, into ajar with a cover to til closely; 
 set the jar into a pot of cold water, and wheu 
 it Ixiils, add ;ir il wastes more hot wa!.-i, 
 and keep it boiling gently for six 
 hours, when the richest gravy in.
 
 OR A 
 
 HAM 
 
 will be obtained. It may be used in that 
 state, or reduced with water. 
 
 GRAVY, TO MAKE A PINT OF 
 RICH. Brown a quarter of a |x>n>iil of 
 butter, dredging in two lable-spoonfuls of 
 flour, and stirring it constantly; add a pound 
 of yr.ivy-beef cut into small bits, and two or 
 three onions chopped. When it becomes 
 brown, add some whole pepper, one carrot, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, and three pints of 
 water ; let it boil gently till reduced to one, 
 then strain it. This gravy may be served 
 with roasted turkey or fowl. 
 
 GRAVY, TO CLARIFY. Clarify gra- 
 vy, drawn from beef or veal, with the beaten 
 whites of eggs, allowing one white to a 
 quart. Gravies and soups which are to be 
 clarified should be made very strong, and be 
 highly seasoned. 
 
 GRAVY AND SAUCE INGREDI- 
 ENTS. Browning for made dishes. Put into 
 a saucepan one pound of good brown sugar, 
 stir it constantly over a slow fire, boil it 
 till it is as thick as treacle, and resembles 
 it in color; take the pan off the fire, stir it 
 for a minute or two, and pour in very slowlv 
 a quart of boiling water, stirring constantly ; 
 put it again on the fire, and boil it for a 
 little; pour it into a bowl, and when cold, 
 bottle it. This browning will keep good 
 for a year, and very little of it serves for 
 coloring soups, gravies, or sauces. 
 
 To clarify butter. Put the butter cut into 
 slices into a nicely-cleaned brass pan, stir it 
 gently till dissolved: when it boils, draw the 
 pan to the side of the fire, skim it, and let 
 it boil gently a second time, and if any scum 
 again rises, take it off; let it settle for two 
 or three minutes, and strain it gently through 
 a sieve which has a piece of muslin laid 
 into it. 
 
 Fresh beef suet, picked free from skin 
 and sinews, is dissolved in the same way; 
 it is then strained through muslin into small 
 jars, and when cold, covered with bladder, 
 or it may be strained into cold water ; and 
 tin; cake when cold, wiped dry, folded in 
 white paper, and kept in a linen bag. 
 
 Beef suet will keep fresh for sometime 
 if finely chopped and dredged with flour, 
 and kept in white paper bags in a cool place. 
 
 Beef and mutton drippings are clarified 
 exactly in the manner butter is done, and 
 each kept in a separate jar. 
 
 To melt hog's-lard, put it into a jar plac- 
 ed in a pot of water or water bath, strain it 
 into clean bladders or small jars, and cover 
 them wilh paper. Thus prepared, it will 
 keep good a length of time, and is the best 
 tiling for fiying fish in. 
 
 To fry parsley, wash it, pick it clean, 
 
 and put it into fresh cold water; take it out 
 and then throw it into boiling lard or drip- 
 ping, when it will instantly become crisp; 
 it is then taken out with a slice. 
 
 GRUEL. DR. KITCHENER'S. Ask 
 
 those who are to eat it, if they like it 
 thick or thin; if the latter, mix well togeth- 
 er by degrees, in a pint basin, one table- 
 spoonful of oatmeal, with three of cold wa- 
 ter; if the former, use two spoonfuls. 
 
 Have ready in a steupan, a pint of boil- 
 ing water or milk ; pour this by degrees to i 
 the oatmeal you have mixed ; return it into 
 the stewpan ; set it on the fire, and let it 
 boil for five minutes; stirring it all the time 
 to prevent the oatmeal from burning at tlie 
 Ixrtioin of the stewpan ; skim and strain it 
 through a hair sieve. 
 
 2d. To convert this into caudle, add a 
 little ale, wine, or brandy, with sugar; and 
 if the bowels are disordered, a little nutmeg 
 or ginger, grated. 
 
 4Jbs. Gruel may be made with broth in- 
 stead cf water; and may be flavored with 
 sweet hoilis, soup roots, and savory spices, 
 by boiling them for a few minutes in the 
 water you are going to make the gruel with. 
 
 H. 
 
 HAM. If it is a very dry Westphalia 
 ham, it must be soaked, according to its age 
 and thickness, from twelve to twenty-four 
 hours ; for a green ham, from four to eight 
 hours will Insufficient. Lukewarm water will 
 soften it much sooner than cold, when suffi- 
 ciently soaked, trim it nicely on the under- 
 side, and pare off all the rusty ami smoked 
 parts till it looks delicately clean. 
 
 Give it plenty of water-room, and put it 
 in while the water is cold; let it heat very 
 gradually, and let it l)e on the fire an hour 
 and a half before it comes to a boil; let it 
 be well skimmed, and keep it simmering 
 very gently: a middling-sized ham of fifteen 
 pounds will be done enough in about four or 
 five hours, according to its thickness. 
 
 If not to be cut till cold, it will cut the 
 shorter and tenderer for being boiled ubout 
 half an hour longer. In a very small family, 
 where a ham will last a week or ten days, 
 it is best economy not to cut it till it is cold, 
 it will be infinitely more juicy. 
 
 Pull off the skin carefully, and preserve it 
 as whole as possible; it will fonn an excel- 
 lent covering to keep the ham moist; lien 
 you have removed the skin, nib some bread 
 raspings through a hair sieve, or grate a 
 crust of bread; put it into the perforated 
 cover of tlie dredging-lwx, and shake it over
 
 HAM 
 
 93 
 
 U \ M 
 
 it, or glaze it; trim the knuckle with a 
 
 fringe of cut writing-paper. You mav i; .u - 
 ni-li with spiuage or turnips, Sec. 
 
 To pol liain is a much more useful and 
 economical way of disj>osing of the remains 
 of the joint, tlian making essence of it. 
 
 II \M AND EGGS. Cut some ham 
 into thin slices, and broil tliem on a gridiron. 
 
 Fry .-'inn- L;^- in butter. Serve it, laving 
 an egg on each slice of ham. 
 
 HAM. i:K.\CK OF. Take three or 
 four |>ouiids of lean ham, cut it into pieces 
 about an inch thick, and lay them in a stew- 
 pan, with slices of carrots, |>arsni|>s, and 
 tln-ee or four onions; let them stew till they 
 stick to tin- pan, hut take care they do not 
 burn; lh--u bv decrees pour in some good 
 veal ui-ivv. ;i tew fresh mushrooms cut in 
 pieces, (or ninshrooiii-|)owder), truffles, mor- 
 els, cloves, parsley, leek, basil, and a crust 
 of bivad ; cover it clow, and simmer till 
 prettv thick, then strain it off for use. 
 
 HAM (JRAVY. Take a deep sauce- 
 pan, put ini it a piece of fresh butter, seve- 
 ral slices of ham, about six pieces of veal 
 the r-i/e of a walnut, and two or thre. 
 rvts cut in small pieces; set these over a 
 slow tire. :md let them stand till they give 
 out their 'juices, and the ham and veal be- 
 uiil stick; then put in a little 
 .-t'>ck, and let it boil; iii an hour's time add 
 a gLiss of white wine, leave it a quarter of 
 a:i h Mir, wh"n it will be sufficiently done; 
 lake off every particle of fat; strain it into 
 id set it l>y for use. 
 
 1 1 V M I .< ) A F. Soak a fine ham in cold 
 
 water for one or two days, acem-dini; to its 
 age; tln-n put it into a saucepan just bi^' 
 
 !i to linlil it, with no ur>re water than 
 
 will cover it. and a pint of white wine; let 
 
 it b iii, skimming it carefully, till done. 
 
 take out the h-H-k and under 
 
 . and ill;- skin; jwre away some of the 
 . i.l t. i.n it ti an n\al torm as much as 
 
 I . M ike a farce with the |>aringn of 
 the f.it, HMie \eal or game, and sweet herbs 
 minced and pounded. Take a pan the size 
 v>ii wish t i have vour loaf, lay all over the 
 inside a pretty firm paste, and then (liav- 
 in_' cut \ i'ir ham into thin slices) place al- 
 ternate' livers of it and the tarce in the pan, 
 until it I*- quite full. Put a crust over the 
 top, which iim.t unite with that in which 
 the ham is; turn it over on a baking plate, 
 flour it, and put it into a very hot oven for 
 an hour and a half or two hours, according 
 to its size. Serve it cold. 
 
 II AM. MINCED, WITH FRIED EGOS. 
 
 See Eggs. 
 
 HAM OMELET. Take a slice oflwiled 
 
 ham, mince it as small as [xissible, and mix 
 it with a dozen eggs lieaten with a little veal 
 gravy; fry it (keeping it of an equal thick- 
 ness) in the usual manner. 
 
 HAM, OR TONGUE POTTED. Cut 
 
 a pound of the lean of cold boiled ham or 
 tongue, and pound it in a mortar with a 
 quarter of a pound of the fat, or with fresh 
 butter (in the proportion of about two ounces 
 to a. |xmnd). till it is a line paste (some sea- 
 sou it by degrees with a little pounded mace 
 or allspice) : put it close down in pots for 
 that purpose, and cover it with clarified 
 butter, a quarter of an inch thick; let it 
 stand one night in a cool place. Send it 
 up in the pot, or cut out in thin slices. 
 
 HAM ROASTED WITH MADEIRA.* 
 Take a fine Westphalia or Hayonne ham, 
 pare and trim it of as round a form its possi- 
 ble, take off the end bone, and remove 
 the rind from the knuckle; then lay the ham 
 on a gridiron over the lire, till you can take 
 it up with ease; soak it, if neccs,:u v, and 
 put it in a pan, with slices of carrots and 
 onions, tin me, bay-leaf, and coriander; pour 
 a bottle of Madeira ti|>on it, cover it with a 
 clean cloth, and close the pan as tight as 
 possible, and let it remain twenty-four hours; 
 then wrap the liam in very thick (viper, fas- 
 ten it with paste, so that it may be com- 
 pletely enclosed, tie it on a spit, and put 
 it to roast for three hours; tlien make a 
 small hole in the paper, and pour in, by 
 means of a funnel, {lie .Madeira wine, paste 
 paper over the hole, and let it roast anotlier 
 hour. When done, take off the paper care- 
 : it none of the gravy may escape, 
 mix it with some reduced espagnole, glaze 
 the ham, and serve it. 
 
 HAM TOAST. Cut some crumb of 
 bread into thin slices; then take- an equal 
 number of thin slices of ham, lx-at them well 
 with a rolling pin, and then soak them in 
 warm water for alxmt two hours; lake them 
 out, dry them well, and put tliejn into a 
 saucc|ian with a little Ixicon, a slice of veal, 
 ami half a glass of stock; let them lx.il for 
 half an hour, and then add half a glass of 
 veal blond. Fry your bread to a nice col- 
 or in some lard ; lay it on a dish, and on each 
 .1 slice of die hiiin; pour the sauce 
 over them. Take particular care to cot 
 die ham as nearly as possible die size and 
 shape of die bread. 
 
 HAM TO STEW. Soak die ham in 
 
 lukewarm water tor twelve hours, drain it, 
 Aid scrape die rind ; put it into a stewpan 
 with some slices of fat bacon round the sides, 
 four quarts of weak stock, a good deal of
 
 94 
 
 H AR 
 
 parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, six large 
 onions, four carrots, a little allspice :uul 
 pep|)er, a pint of Madeira, and one of Port 
 wine. Cover the ham with slices of fat ba- 
 con, and put over it a sheet of white paper; 
 stew it eight hours, or ten if it IK: a very 
 large ham. Before serving, take off the 
 rind, strain the sauce, skim it well, and 
 boil it till reduced to a glaze, and pour it 
 round the ham, or serve it with any other 
 sauce tliat may be preferred. 
 
 HAM WITH MADEIRA. Soak in 
 water for two hours a Bayonne, or any other 
 fine ham, boil it for two hours, trim it quick- 
 ly, and then put it into a stewpan, with thin 
 slices of veal at die bottom ; add some car- 
 rots and parsley, and season with spices. 
 Pour over the ham a pint of rich stock and 
 a bottle of Madeira ; let it boil for two hours, 
 strain and skim the fat off the sauce, 
 which, with the ham, must be served quite 
 hot. 
 
 HARE. As soon as the cook receives a 
 hare, she should take out the liver, &c., wipe 
 it well, put in a little pepper, and hang it 
 up. When wanted for dressing, cut off 
 the four legs at the first joint, raise the 
 skin of the back, and draw it over the 
 hind legs ; leave the tail whole, then draw 
 the skin over the back, and slip out the four 
 legs; cut it from the neck and head; skin 
 the ears, and leave them on. Clean the 
 vent. Cut the sinews under the hind legs ; 
 bring them forward ; run a skewer through 
 one hind leg, the body, and another hind 
 leg; do the same with die fore legs; lay the 
 head rather back ; put a skewer in at the 
 mouth, through the back of the -head and 
 between the shoulders ; put in the stuffing, 
 and tie it round with a string, passing it 
 over the legs to keep them in their places: 
 the hare is then ready for roasting. See 
 Hare Roasted. 
 
 HARE, JUGGED. Having skinned a 
 hare, cut off the shoulders and legs, and di- 
 vide the back into three pieces; nib them 
 well with fat bacon, and put them into a 
 stewpan with the trimmings, allspice, mace, 
 whole pepper, a small clove of garlic, two 
 bay-leaves, three onions, parsley, thyme, 
 sweet marjoram, a quart of veal stock, and 
 three gills of Port wine; simmer die whole 
 till three parts done ; then take out the shoul- 
 ders, legs, and back ; put them into another 
 stewpan, strain (lie liquor to them, add a 
 little flour and butter, stew them till quite 
 done; take off the fat, season widi cayenne, 
 valt, and lemon-juice, and serve die whole 
 in a deep dish. 
 
 HARE ROASTED. Cut die skin from 
 
 a hare that has been well soaked ; put it on 
 the spit and rub it well with Madeira, prick- 
 ing it in various places that it may iinlulie 
 plenty of wine; cover it entirely with a 
 ]iaste, and roast it. When done, take away 
 the paste, rub it quickly over with egg, 
 sprinkle bread-cminbs, and baste it gently 
 with butter (still keeping it turning before 
 the fire) until a mist is formed o\cr it and 
 it is of a nice brown color; dish it over 
 some espagitole with Madeira wine boiled 
 in it ; two or three cloves may be stuck into 
 the knuckles if you think proper. 
 
 HASHED HARE. Cut up the hare 
 into pieces fit to help at table, and divide 
 die joints of die legs and shoulders, and set 
 them by ready. Put the trimmings and 
 gravy you have left, with half a pint of wa- 
 ter (there should be a pint of liquor), and a 
 table-spoon fill of currant jelly, into a clean 
 stewpan, and let it boil gently for a quarter 
 of an hour: dien strain it through a sieve 
 into a basin, and pour it back into the stew- 
 pan; now flour the hare, put it into die 
 gravy, and let it simmer very gently till die 
 hare is warm (about twenty minutes) ; cut 
 the stuffing into slices, and put it into die 
 hash to get warm, about five minutes before 
 you serve it; divide the head, and lay one 
 half on each side the dish. 
 
 HARICOT BY WAY OF SOUP. 
 
 Cut a large neck of mutton into two pieces, 
 put die scrag into a Mew pan with a quart 
 of water, four large carrots, and turnips; 
 boil it gently over a slow fire till nil the 
 goodness be out of die meat; then bruise 
 die vegetables into die soup to diicken it. 
 Fry six onions (sliced) in butler, and put 
 die other part of die meat to the soup, and 
 stew till the latter is tender; season with 
 pepper and salt, and serve it very hot in a 
 tureen. 
 
 HARICOT MUTTON. Cut die best 
 end of a neck or loin of mutton, that 
 has been kept till tender, into chops of 
 equal thickness, one rib to each ; trim off 
 some of the fat, and die lower end of the 
 chine bone, and scrape it clean, and lay 
 them in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter; 
 set it o\er a smart fire; if your fire is not 
 sharp, the chops will be done before they 
 are colored; die intention of frying them 19 
 merely to give them a very light browning. 
 
 While die chops are browning, jx.t-1 and 
 boil a couple of dozen of young button onions 
 in about diree pints of water for about fifteen 
 or twenty minutes, set them by, and pour off 
 the liquor they were boiled in into the stew- 
 pan with die chops: if that is not sufficient 
 to cover diem, add as much boiling water a* 
 will remove die .-cum as it rises, and be
 
 HAT 
 
 95 
 
 HER 
 
 careful they are not stewed too fast or too 
 much; so take out one of them with a fish- 
 slice, and try it: \vln-n they arc tender, 
 which will l- in about an hour and a half, 
 then pass tlie i;i-i\j through a sieve into a 
 basin, set it in the ojx-n air thai it may get 
 cold, xoii may then easily and completely 
 skim off the fat; in the meantimr set the 
 meat and vegetables by the fire to keep hot, 
 and |x>ur some boiling water over the Union 
 onions to warm them. Have aU>nt six 
 ounces of carrots, and eight ounces of tur- 
 nips, peeled and cut into slices, or shaped 
 into balls alxmt :is big as a nutmeg; boil 
 the carrots about half an hour, the turnips 
 about a quarter of an hour, and put them on 
 a sie\e to drain, and then put tliem round 
 the dish, llie last thing. 
 
 Thicken the <;iuv\ by [Hitting an ounce of 
 butter into a siew|m; when it is melted, 
 stir in as much Hour as will stiffen it; pour 
 the uraiy to it by degrees, stir together till 
 it l>oils; strain it through a fine sieve or 
 tainis into a stewpan, put in the carrots and 
 turnips to get warm, and let it simmer 
 gently while yon dish up the meat; lay the 
 chops round a dish, put the vegetables in the 
 middle, and |X)i:r (he thickened gra\y over. 
 S<. IN,- put in capers, &c. minced glierkins, 
 fie. 
 
 Kninp-steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails, 
 make excellent dishes dressed in the like 
 manner. 
 
 ll\S|f, COLD. Mince a nice white 
 piece of veal, wash and core some anchovies ; 
 take some pickled oysters, pickled cucum- 
 !!-. anil a lemon; shred and mix them 
 with tin- \eal, and place it in a dish; lay 
 round il slides of vl, fillets of anchovies, 
 pickled cucumbers sliced, whole pickled 
 oysters, muslirooms and capers; lettuces 
 sin. ; -mall; |>m in oil and vinegar, salt 
 and |x-p|*-r, and serve. 
 
 II VSIII'.s, MADE DISHES, STEWS, 
 
 UA<iol rs.soi "PS, TO WARM. Put 
 what MIII ha\e lefi into a deep ha.-h-di-h or 
 . it n son want it, set this in a stew- 
 pan of U.ilini; water: let it stand till the 
 i-iiiiti-ni.- are (juile wiu'in. 
 
 n \TTI;I;I:D KIT. (i) Make two 
 
 (|uarts of new milk scalding hot, and pour 
 it ijuickly U|xm li>ur i|iiarts of fresh-made 
 bntii-r milk, after which it must not be stir- 
 ret 1 ; lit it remain (ill cold and firm, then 
 take of)' the top part, drain it in a hair sieve, 
 and put it into a shape for half an hour. It 
 . served in a separate 
 
 dish. 
 
 HATTF.KKI) KIT. (2) Put into the 
 di-h it is to U- served in, one-third of cream 
 
 with two-thirds of Unier-milk, add a little 
 potmded loaf sn^ar, and l>eat it well togeth- 
 er. Strew over it ;i little pounded cin- 
 namon, and let it stand for three or four 
 hours. 
 
 1 1 \ \\ THORN LIQUOR. The fall 
 
 blossoms of llie white thorn are to lx> picked 
 dry and clean from tle leaves and stalks, 
 and as much put into n large bottle as it will 
 hold lightly without pressing down; it is 
 then to be filled up with French brandy, 
 and allowed to stand two or three months, 
 when it must be decanted off, and sweetened 
 with clarified sugar, or with capillaire. 
 Without the sweetening, it is an excellent 
 seasoning for puddings and custards. 
 
 HEDGEHOG TO MAKE. Blanch 
 
 two pounds of sweet almonds, beat them to 
 a piste iii a mortar, moistening occasionally 
 w ith ( 'unary and orange-flower water ; beat 
 the yolks of twelve, and the whites of seven 
 eggs with a pint of cream and some |jowder 
 sugar; put this with the almond paste and 
 half a pound of fresh butter into a saucepan, 
 set it over a Btove and keep it constantly 
 stirring till sufficiently firm to Ix- moulded 
 into the shape of a hedgehog: stick it full 
 of blanched almonds, cut lengthwise, into 
 slips, and place it in a dish ; beat up the 
 yolks of four eggs, put them to a pint of 
 cream (sweetened to the taste) ; stir them 
 over a slow fire till hot, then pour it round 
 the hedgehog and let it stand; when cold, 
 serve it. A good calf's-foot jelly may be 
 poured round, instead of the cream, if pre- 
 ferred. 
 
 HERBS, A BUNCH OF SWEET, Is 
 
 made up of parsley, sweet marjoram, winter 
 savory, orange and lemon thyme ; the great- 
 est proportion of parsley. 
 
 HERBS, SWEET. These in cookery 
 are parsley, chil>hol, rocambole, winter sa- 
 vory, thyme, Ixu-leal", liasil, mint, borage, 
 rosemary, cress, marigold, marjoram, &c. 
 The relishing licrlis or Ravigotte are tar- 
 ragon, garden-cress, cliervil, buniet, civet, 
 and green mustard. 
 
 HERBS TO DRY, SWEET AND 
 SAVORY. It u very important to those 
 who are not in tin- constant habit of attend- 
 ing the markets to know w lu-n the various 
 season* commence fur purchasing sweet 
 herbs. 
 
 All vegetables are in the highest state 
 of |x-rfei-iion, and fullest of juice and flavor, 
 just U- lore tliey begin to flower: the first 
 and List crop ha\.- neither the fine flavor, 
 nor the pel fume of iho.e which are gathered 
 in the height of the season ; that i, when
 
 HER 
 
 96 
 
 HOG 
 
 the greater part of die crop of each species 
 is ripe. 
 
 Take care they are gathered on a dry 
 day, by which means they will have a bet- 
 ter color when dried. Cleanse your herbs 
 well from dirt and dust ; cut off the roots ; 
 separate the hunches into smaller ones, and 
 dry them by the heat of a stove, or in a 
 Dutch oven before a common fire, in such 
 quantities at a time, tlrat the process may be 
 speedily finished ; i. e. ' Kill 'em quick,' 
 says a great botanist; by this means their 
 flavor will behest preserved: there can be 
 no doubt of the propriety of drying herbs, 
 &c. hastily by the aid of artificial heat, 
 rather than by the heat of the sun. In the 
 application of artificial heat, the only cau- 
 tion requisite is t<> avoid burning ; and of 
 this a sufficient test is afforded by the pres- 
 ervation of the color. The common cus- 
 tom is, when they are perfectly dried to put 
 them in bags, and lay them in a dry place; 
 but the best way to preserve the flavor of 
 aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as 
 soon as they are dried, and to pound them, 
 and put them through a hair sieve, and keep 
 them in Irell-atopped lx>!tles. The common 
 custom is to put them into paper bags, and 
 lay them on a shelf in the kitchen, exposed 
 to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, &c.: 
 thus they soon lose their flavor. 
 
 N. B. Herbs nicely dried are a very ac- 
 ceptable substitute when fresh ones cannot 
 be got; but, however carefully dried, the 
 flavor and fragrance of the fresh herbs are 
 incomparably finer. 
 
 HERRINGS. There are three sorts of 
 herrings, fresh, salted, and dried or red her- 
 rings. They are emptied and cleaned like 
 any other li/li ; when fresh, they are broiled, 
 and served with melted butler, white sauce, 
 &c. 
 
 The salted herring should lie soaked in 
 cold water before it is cooked ; this is also 
 broiled ; sometimes, however, it is cut in 
 pieces, and eaten raw. 
 
 The red hen-ing is split down the back, 
 the head and tail are cut off, and the fish 
 broiled like the others. 
 
 They may also be dressed as follows: 
 when they have lain in cold water a suffi- 
 cient time, soak them for two hours in milk, 
 then split them down the back ; then have 
 ready some melted batter, in which has been 
 mixed basil and bay-leaf, minced small, the 
 yolks of two eggs, pepper and nutmeg ; nib 
 the herrings well with this, bread them; 
 broil them over a gentle fire, and serve with 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 The best red herrings are full of roe, 
 are firm and large, and have a yellow- 
 cast. 
 
 Of the fresh herring the scales are bright 
 
 if good, the eyes are full, and the gills red, 
 the fish also should I* stiff. 
 
 HERRINGS, FOILED. Scale, and 
 otherwise prepare the hen-ings in the usual 
 way ; dry them well, and rub them over with 
 a little salt and vinegar; skewer their tails 
 in their mouths, lay them on a fL-h-plate, and 
 put them into boiling water; in ten or 
 twelve minutes take them out, drain them, 
 lay them on the dish, the heads towards the 
 middle; serve them with melted butter and 
 parsley, and garnish with bonetaduh. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED. Plain broil them, 
 or pour over some Ix-er made hot, and when 
 it is cold drain and wipe them dry ; heat 
 them thoroughly, and rub over a little butter, 
 and sprinkle them with pepper. 
 
 HERRINGS TO BAKE. They must 
 be perfectly fresh, and well cleaned, but not 
 washed ; the heads and fins cut off, and the 
 bones cut out; strew over them pepper, salt, 
 and a slice of onion minced \eiy finely, to 
 each; roll them up tight; pack them into a 
 jar, and pour over in the proportion of a 
 pint of vinegar to two of water, with half 
 an ounce of whole black pepper; tic over 
 the jar a piece of bladder or paper, and 
 bake them in an oven for an hour. Takti 
 off the cover when they are cold, and pom 
 over a little cold vinegar, and tie them up. 
 
 HERRINGS TO FRY. Scrape off 
 the scales; cut off the lias; draw out the 
 gut, keeping in the roes and melts; wipe 
 them in a clean cloth; dredge them with 
 flour, and fry them in boiling dripping; put 
 them before the fire to drain and keep hot. 
 Sauces; melted butter, and parsley and 
 butter. When herrings are to be broiled, 
 they are prepared in the same manner, and 
 done upon the gridiron. They must not be 
 washed. 
 
 HIPPOCRAS. Take one ounce of 
 cinnamon, two drachms of ginger, two pen- 
 ny-weights of cloves, nutmeg, and galangal 
 a penny-weight of each. Pound these to- 
 gether well, and infuse them in a pint of red 
 or white wine, and a pint of malmsey; to 
 this, add a pound of, the best loaf sugar. 
 These proportions will make a quart of 
 the liquor. 
 
 HOG'S HEAD. Put a head into some 
 pickle, and when it has lain sufficiently long, 
 take it out and boil it till the bones will 
 come out with ease; then skin, bone, and 
 chop the meat, whilst hot; season it with 
 pepper (black and while), nutmeg, and salt, 
 if necessary ; lay part of the skin at the 
 bottom of a potting pan, press in the meat,
 
 HUN 
 
 97 
 
 ICE 
 
 cover it with the remainder of the skin, put > 
 on a weight, and let it stand till <|uile cold. 
 Then tuni it out. I'.oil the li(|iior it was 
 dressed in with some vinegar, skim it well, 
 and when oil, I put the head into it. 
 
 1I()\EY TO CLARIFY. M. Fou- 
 <lUE's METHOD. Take six |x>unds of 
 honex , :i pi mud and three-quarters of wafer, 
 two onuc. s and a quarter of [xiunded chalk, 
 five oniH-es ufroal, (pulverised, washed, and 
 well dried), the whites of three eggs beaten 
 in three ounces of water, for eacli pound of 
 honey. 
 
 Put die honey, water, chalk, and eggs, 
 into a cop|x-r vessel, capable of holding 
 about one-third more than the above quanti- 
 ties ; let them lx>il for two minutes, throw 
 in the coal, mixing it with a spoon, and 
 continue the boiling two minutes longer; 
 then take the saucepan from the fire, and 
 let it stand nearly a (purler of an hour, that 
 the liquor mav cool ; then take a neu sieve 
 (which must ix- well u ashed, or it will im- 
 part a disa'jree-iMe taste), pass the honey 
 through it, taking ft ire to filter the first 
 drops twice, ;ts they generally cany with 
 them some portion of the i 
 
 ii|> which still adheres to the coal, 
 and other materials, may be separated as 
 follows: pour boiling water on them until 
 they no longer retain any sweetness; then 
 
 put these dilVereiit waters together, set them 
 over a large lire to eva|>orate, till the sirup 
 only remains. This sirup contracts the fla- 
 vor of Inn ley sugar, and must not be added 
 to the clarified honey. 
 
 IIOKsr.KADISH POWDER. The 
 
 time to make this is during \ovemtxT and 
 December; .-lice it the thickness of a shil- 
 ling, and lay it to dn very gradually in a 
 Dnii li o\en (a strong heat soon eva[xirates 
 its tla\or); when dry enough, pound it and 
 bottle it. 
 
 HOI' PICKLE. Boil, in two quarts of 
 vinegar, a quarter of a |>oimd of salt, two 
 ounces of shallots or garlic, and two of gin- 
 ger, one ounce of pepper, one of yellow mus- 
 i, and a (|itarter of an ounce of 
 |Xit into a jar that will hold tour 
 two ounces of allspice, and pour on 
 it the hot pickle. Whrn cold, put in am 
 ildes or fruit, such as 
 '-, cauliflower, French beans, radish 
 pod.-, unripe apples, gooseberries, currants, 
 which may !* added a- tli.' opportunity of- 
 fers, and, .1- the pickle wastes, it should be 
 I with the aome mixture. 
 
 Il-BON I ! OF BEEF. See Beef. 
 
 HI NG BEEF. See Beef. 
 9 
 
 HUNTING BEEF. See Beef. 
 HUNTER'S PIE. See Irish Stew. 
 
 I. 
 
 ICE. Sorbetieres or moulds for cream 
 or fniit-ices, are made of two sorts of ma- 
 terials, Mock-tin and |>ewter; of these, the 
 latter is the l>est, the substance to be iced 
 congealing more gradually in it than in the 
 former; an object much to be desired, as 
 when the ice is formed too quickly, it is very 
 apt to be rough, and full of lumps like hail, 
 especially if it be not well worked with the 
 spatula ; the other utensils necessary for this 
 operation, are, a deep pail, with a cork at 
 the bottom, and a wooden spatula about 
 nine inches long; being so far provided, fill 
 the pail with pounded ice, over which spread 
 four handfuls of salt; then having filled the 
 sorbetiere, or mould, with cream, &c. ; put 
 on the cover, and immerse it in the centre 
 of the ice-pail; taking care the ice touches 
 the mould in all parts; throw in two more 
 handfuls of salt, and leave it a quarter of an 
 hour; then take the cover from the mould, 
 and with the spatula stir the contents up to- 
 gether, so that those parts which touch the 
 sides of the mould, and consequently congeal 
 first, may be mixed w ith the liquid in the 
 middle; work this alxnit for seven or eigh'. 
 minutes; cover the mould, take the pail by 
 tire ears, and shake it round and round for 
 a quarter of an hour; o|>eii the mould a sec- 
 ond time, and stir as Ix-lore; continue these 
 operations alternately, until the en-am, or 
 whatever it may l>e, is entirely congealed, 
 and |x-rfe<-lly smooth, and free from lumps. 
 Take care to let out the water, which will 
 collect at the bottom of the pail, by means 
 of the cork, and press the ice close to the 
 sorlx'ticre with the spatula. 
 
 When the cream is iced, take it from the 
 |>ail, dip the mould in warm water, but not 
 to let it remain an instant; dry it quickly, 
 turn it out, and serve it as soon as possible. 
 
 All sorts of ices are finished in this man- 
 ner ; the preparation of the articles of which 
 they are composed, constitutes the only dif- 
 ference between them. 
 
 ICE, A VERY LARGE CAKE. I., :,t 
 
 tlin whites of twenty fresh egg-; then, by 
 degrees, beat a pound of double-refined su- 
 gar, sifted through a lawn sieve; mix these 
 well in a deep earthen pan ; add orange- 
 flower water, and a piece of froh lemon- 
 peel; do not use more of the orange-flower 
 water than is just sufficient to flavor it. 
 Whisk it fir three hours till the mixture is 
 thick and white; tlicn, with a thin broad
 
 ICI 
 
 98 
 
 IRI 
 
 bit of board, spread it all over the top and 
 sides, and set it in a cool oven, and an hour 
 wiU harden it. 
 
 ICE FOR ICING (HOW TO PRE- 
 PARE). Take a few pounds of ice, break 
 it almost to powder, and tlirow in among it 
 a large handful and a half of salt ; you must 
 prepare in the coolest part of the house, that 
 as little of the warm air as possible may 
 come. The ice and salt lacing in a bucket, 
 put your cream into an ice-pot, and cover it ; 
 immerse it in the ice, and draw that round 
 the |x>t, so that it may touch every part. In 
 a few minutes put a spatula or spoon in, and 
 stir it well, removing the parts that ice round 
 the edges to the centre. If the ice-cream or 
 water, be in a form, shut the bottom close, 
 and move the whole in the ice, as you can- 
 not use a spoon to that without danger of 
 waste. There should be holes in the buck- 
 et, to let the ice off as it thaws. 
 
 ICING FOR CAKES. For a large 
 cake, teat and sift eight ounces of fine sugar, 
 put it into a mortar, with four spoonfuls of 
 rose water, and the whites of two eggs, 
 beaten and strained, whisk it well, and 
 when the cake is almost cold, dip a feather 
 in the icing, and cover the cake well; set it 
 in the oven to harden, but do not let it re- 
 main long enough to discolor. Keep the 
 cake in a drv place. 
 
 ICING FOR TARTS. Beat the yolk 
 of an egg and some melted butter well toge- 
 ther; wash the tarts with a feather, and 
 sift sugar over as you put them into the 
 oven ; or beat white of egg, wash the paste, 
 and sift white sugar. 
 
 ICING, FOR TWELFTH OR BRIDE 
 
 CAKE. Take one pound of double-refined 
 sugar, pounded and sifted through a lawn 
 sieve; put into a pan quite free from grease; 
 break in the whites of six eggs, and as much 
 powder bine as will lie on a sixpence; beat 
 it well with a spattle for ten minutes? thru 
 squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and beat it 
 till it becomes thick and trans|>areut. Set 
 the cake you intend to ice in an oven or 
 warm place five minutes ; then spread over 
 the top and sides with the mixture as smooth 
 as possible. If for a wedding cake only, 
 plain ice it ; if for a twelfth cake, ornament 
 it with gum paste, or fancy articles of any 
 description. A good twelfth cake, not bak- 
 ed two much, and kept in a cool dry place, 
 will retain its moisture and eat well, if 
 twelve montlis old. 
 
 ICING FOR FRUIT TARTS, PDFFS, 
 OR PASTRY. Beat up in a half-pint mug 
 the white of two eggs to a solid froth; lay 
 
 some on the middle of the pie with a paste- 
 brush ; sift over plenty of pounded sugar, and 
 press ii down with the hand, wash out the 
 brush, and splash by degrees with water till 
 the sugar is dissolved, and put it in the oven 
 for ten minutes, and serve it up cold. 
 
 IMPERIAL. Put two ounces of cream 
 of tartar, and the juice and peel of two lem- 
 ons, into a stone jar, pour on them seven 
 quarts of boiling water, stir, and cover close. 
 When cold, sweeten it with loaf sugar, strain 
 it, bottle and cork it tight. Add in buttling, 
 half u pint to the whole quantity. 
 
 INDIA PICKLE. (1) Take one pound of 
 ginger, put it into a pan with salt and wa- 
 ter, and let it lay all night, then scrape it, 
 and cut it into thin slices; put it into a jjan 
 with half a pound of bay salt, and let it lay 
 till all the following ingredients are prepar- 
 ed; a pound of garlic peeled, and laid in 
 salt for three days, then take it out, wash it, 
 then let it lay in salt for another three days, 
 then take it out and let it lay in the sun for 
 another, till half dry; an ounce of long pep- 
 per, an ounce of capsicum, salted and laid 
 in the sun for three days, a pint of black 
 mustard-seed bruised, half an ounce of tur- 
 meric, beat very small ; put all these ingre- 
 dients together in a jar, then put in as much 
 vinegar, as, when tin: cabbage, or whatever 
 yon intend to pickle, is put into it, the vine- 
 gar will rise to the top of the jar. Then 
 t;ike cablwgf, cauliflower, or whatever you 
 choose to pickle, and cut them into small 
 pieces, throw a good handful of salt over 
 them, and set them in the sun (when it is 
 very hot) for three days, drain the water 
 from them every day, and fresh salt them 
 again, turning the leaves till they are dry, 
 then put them into the pickle, Ix'ing partic- 
 ular that they are completely covered with 
 the vinegar; tie it up close, let it stand a 
 fortnight, lill it airain with more vinegar, 
 carefully watch it from time to time, to fill 
 it up with vinegar, ;is it will waste very fast. 
 
 INDIA PICKLE. (2) One gallon of vin- 
 egar, one pound of garlic, a quarter of a 
 pound of long pepper split, half a pound of 
 flour of mustard, one pound of ginger scrap- 
 ed, and split, and two ounces of turmeric. 
 When you have prepared the spice, and put 
 it into the jar, pour the vinegar boiling hot 
 over it, and stir it every day for a week. 
 Then put in your cabbage, cauliflower, or 
 whatever you intend to pickle. 
 
 INDIAN CURRY. See Curry. 
 
 IRISH PUFFS. Add to five well- 
 beaten yolks and two whites of eggs, a large 
 table-spoonful of flour, not quite an ounce of
 
 ISI 
 
 99 
 
 JAM 
 
 melted butter, and half a tea-spoonful of salt ; 
 beat it all well for ten minutes, and add half 
 a pint of cream; bake it in buttered tea- 
 cups; turn them out, and serve them with a 
 sweet sauce. 
 
 IRISH ROCK. Blanch a pound of 
 sweet iuid an ounce of bitter almonds, pick 
 out a few of the sweet almonds, ami cut 
 them like straws, and blanch them in rose 
 water ; |x >uinl the rest in a mortur with a 
 table-spoonful of brandy, four ounces of 
 pounded .iiitl silted loaf sugar, and half a 
 ]x>nnd of salt butter well washed; pound 
 them till the mass looks very white, and set 
 it in a cool place to stiffen; then dip two 
 table-spoons into cold water, and with them 
 furm i in- paste, as much like an egg as pos- 
 sible ; plan- in tlie bottom of a glass dish, a 
 small plate or saucer turned, and lay the 
 rock hi-ii up; stick over it the cut almonds, 
 with urcen .-wceimeats, and ornament with 
 of myrtle. 
 
 IU1S1I STEW, OR HUNTER'S PIE. 
 t of a neck of mutton, cut it into 
 
 it well, put it into a stew pan, 
 let it l>ia.-e for half. in hour, take two dozen 
 -, boil them, mash them, and sea- 
 son them, Ixittcr your mould, and line it with 
 the potatoes, put in the mutton, bake it for 
 half an hour, tlien it will be done, cut a hole 
 in the top, and add some good gravy to it. 
 
 llilSH STEW. Take five thick mut- 
 ton <:ho|is, or two pounds off the neck or 
 loins; two |xniii(l.s of potatoes; peel them, 
 and cut them in halves; six onions, or half 
 a poii M. I of onions; peel and slice them also: 
 first put a layer of (xjtatoc* at the bottom of 
 your .-ti-wpun, then a couple of chops and 
 he onions ; then a,' lin potatoes, and 
 BO on, till the pan is quite full; a M:U|| 
 spoonful of white pepper, and alxmt one 
 and a kill' of salt, anil three uill- of In-nth or 
 
 O, anil two tca-.-poonfuls of mu.-lirooin 
 up; co\er ail very close i,i, - 
 prevent the .-learn from Llciliii',' out, and let 
 them stew for an hour and a half on a very- 
 slow lire. A small .-lice of ham is a great 
 addition to this dish. The conk will U- the 
 btrt judge w lien it is done, as a great .!-.:! 
 ..u the liie \.i.ilia\e. (ireat care 
 nin.-i ! lakrn not to let it burn, and that it 
 does not do in. 
 
 IS I M, LASS, TO CLARIFY. Take 
 
 an ouiH-e and quarter of tlie best isinglass, 
 cut it into small pieces, and wash them sev- 
 eral times in warm water. Put the isinglass 
 into a preserving pan, with five glasses of 
 filtered water, .-.-I it on tin- lire, and, as goon 
 as it boils, place it at the side of the stove, 
 
 so as to keep up the boiling ; take off the 
 
 scum directly it rises ; and when the whole 
 is reduced to three-quarters, strain it through 
 a cloth into a basin for use. Some add, in 
 clarifying BWglsjBjj, lemon-peel, to remove 
 its disagreeable taste; but as good isinglass 
 ought to have no flavor, and as the luinon- 
 peel is certain to give a yellow tinge to that, 
 it is much better left out. 
 
 ITALIAN CHEESE. Mix with near- 
 ly half a pound of pounded loaf su^ar, the 
 juice of three lemons, two table-spoonfuls 
 of white wine, and a quart of cream ; U-at 
 it with a whisk till quite thick, which may 
 be in half an hour ; put a bit of muslin into 
 a hair sieve, and jxnir in tlie cream. In 
 twelve hours turn it out, and garnish it with 
 flowers. It may be put into a tin shape, 
 with holes in it. 
 
 ITALIAN *IACAROONS. Tai 
 
 pound of \ alentia or Jordan almonds, I > 
 ed, pound them quite line with the whites 
 of four eggs; add two (xjunds and a half of 
 sifted loaf sugar, and rub them well togeth- 
 er with the pestle ; put in by degrees about 
 ten or eleven more whites, working them 
 well as you put them in ; but the best, crite- 
 rion to go by in trying their lightness is to 
 bake one or two, and if you find them heavy, 
 put one or two more whites ; put the mix- 
 ture into a biscuit-funnel, and lay them out 
 on wafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a 
 small walnut, having ready about two ounces 
 of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips, 
 put tliree or four pieces on each, and hake 
 them on wires, or a baking-plate, in a slow 
 oven. Obs. Almonds should IK- blanched 
 and dried gradually two or Uiree flays be- 
 fore they are used, by which mea'is they 
 will work much U-n-r, and win large 
 quantities are used, it is advised to grind 
 them in a mill provided for that purpose. 
 
 .1. 
 
 JAM, APRICOT. (1) Weigh equal 
 quantities of pounded loaf suif.'ir and of ap- 
 ricots ; pare and cut them quite small ; as 
 they are done, stn w over half of the sugar. 
 The following day Ixiil llw; remainder, and 
 add the apricots ;" stir it till it boils, take 
 off the scum, and when pcrtivtly clear, add 
 
 part of the kernels blanched, and boil it 
 two or three minutes. 
 
 JAM, APRICOT. (2) Allow equal 
 proportions of pounded loaf sugar and of 
 apricots ; pare, and cut them small ; as they 
 are done, strew part of Ihe sugar over them, 
 and put tlie parings into cold water. Break 
 the stones, blanch and pound the kernel*
 
 JAM 
 
 100 
 
 JEL 
 
 which, with the shells and parings, boil till 
 halt' tin- quantity of water is reduced, and 
 there is a sufficiency of the liquor, when 
 strained, to allow three or four table-spoon- 
 fuls to a pound of apricots; put it, with the 
 sugar and fruit, into a preserving pan ; mash, 
 and take off the scum ; boil it quickly, till 
 transparent. 
 
 JAM, APRICOT, OR ANY PLUM. 
 
 After taking away the stones from the apri- 
 cots, and cutting out any blemishes they 
 may have ; put them over a slow fire, in a 
 clean stewpan, with half a pint of water; 
 when scalded, rub them through a hair 
 sieve: to every pound of pulp put one pound 
 of sifted loaf sugar; put it into a preserving- 
 pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils 
 skim it well, and throw in the kernels of 
 the apricots, and half an ounce of bitter al- 
 monds, blanched; boil it a -quarter of an 
 hour fast, and stirring it all the time; re- 
 move it from (he (ire, and fill it into pots, 
 and cover them as directed in Raspbeny 
 Jam. N. B. Green gages or plums may 
 be done in the same way, omitting the ker- 
 nels or almonds. 
 
 JAM, BLACK CURRANT. Gather 
 your currants on a dry day, when they are 
 lull ripe, pick them from the stalks, wash 
 them well in a basin, and to every pound 
 of currants, put a pound of double refined 
 sugar, beaten and sifted; put them into a 
 preserving pan, boil them half an hour, skim, 
 and keep them stirring all the time: then 
 jHit them into pots: when cold, put brandy 
 paper over, and tie white paper over all. 
 
 JAM, CHERRY. Having stoned and 
 boiled three pounds of fine cherries, bruise 
 them, and let the juice run from them ; then 
 boil together half a pound of red currant 
 juice, and half a pound of loaf sugar, put 
 the cherries into these whilst they are boil- 
 ing, and strew on them three-quarters of a 
 pound of sifted sugar. Boil all together very 
 fast for half an hour, and then put it into 
 pots. When cold put on brandy papers. 
 
 JAM, GOOSEBERRY. Take what 
 quantity you please of red, rough, ripe goose- 
 berries; take half their quantity of lump su- 
 gar; break them well, and boil them to- 
 gether for half an hour, of more if necessa- 
 ry. Put it into pots, and cover with paper. 
 
 JAM, GOOSKBERRY, FOR PUDDINGS. 
 
 Allow equal weight of tile, red rough goose- 
 berries, and of good brown sugar; gather 
 the fruit ii|x>n a dry day; top and tail them, 
 and put a layer alternately of gooseberries 
 and of sugar into a preserving pan; shake 
 it frequently, skim it well, and boil it till 
 
 the sirup jellies, which may be ascertained 
 by cooling a little in a saucer. Black and 
 red currants may I* done in this way for 
 common use. 
 
 JAM, PEACH. Gatlier the peaches 
 when quite ripe, peel and stone them, put 
 them into a preserving-pan, and mash them 
 over the fire till hot ; nib them through a 
 siexc, and add to a pound of pulp the same 
 weight of pounded loaf sugar, and half an 
 ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and pound- 
 ed ; let it boil ten or twelve minutes, stir 
 and skim it well. 
 
 JAM, RASPBERRY. Weigh equal 
 proportions of pounded loaf sugar and of 
 raspberries ; put the fruit into a preserving- 
 pan, and with a silver spoon bruise and 
 mash it well; let boil six minutes; add the 
 sugar, and stir it well with the fruit; when 
 it boils, skim it, and boil it for fifteen min- 
 utes. 
 
 JAM, STRAWBERRY. Gather the 
 scarlet strawberries when perfectly ripe, 
 bruise them well, and add the juice of other 
 strawberries ; take an equal weight of lump 
 sugar, pound and sift it, stir it thoroughly 
 into the fmit, and set it on a slow fire; boil 
 it twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it 
 rises; pour it into glasses, or jars, ;uid when 
 cold, tie them down. 
 
 JAM, WHITE OR RED CURRANT. 
 Pick the fruit very nicely, and allow an 
 equal quantity of fine\y-ponnded loaf sugar; 
 put a layer of each alternately into a preserv- 
 ing pan, and boil for ten minutes ; or they 
 may be boiled the same length of time in 
 sugar previously clarified and boiled candy 
 high. 
 
 JAUNE MANGE. Boil an ounce of 
 isinglass in three-quarters of a pint of w'ater 
 
 till melted; strain it, then add the juice of 
 two Seville oranges, a quarter of a pint of 
 white wine, the yolks of four erjgs, lieaten 
 and strained; sugar according to i; 
 it over a gentle fire till it just boils up: when 
 cold, put it into a mould, taking care, if 
 there should happen to be any sediment, not 
 to pour it in. 
 
 JELLY. To a quart of the stock jelly 
 put half a pound of loaf surar pounded, a 
 stick or two of cinnamon broken into small 
 bits, the peel of a lemon, a pint of currant 
 wine, and one of Sherry or Teneriffe, and the 
 beaten whites of live eir^s ; put it all into a 
 nicely-cleaned saucepan, stir it gently till it. 
 Ixiils, and boil it for three or four minules. 
 Pour it into a jelly-bag, with a basin or mug ; 
 placed, underneath; run it immediately
 
 JEL 
 
 101 
 
 JEL 
 
 through the bag again into another basin, 
 and repeat this till it begins to drop. It 
 will then be :is transparent an possible, and 
 may be put into moulds or glasses. When 
 all has :ip|Mrently dripped, pnur about a 
 pint of boiling water into the Im^, whHi 
 will product* a little thin jelly til to drink; 
 the stand with the jelly-bag should lx- plac- 
 ed near to tin- lire; Sherry alone, or Tene- 
 rifTe, may Ix- used. The jelly may l>e (Hit 
 into quart IxHtles corked tightly, which will 
 nuike it keep good for some weeks; place 
 the bottle in warm water when it is requir- 
 ed for use. 
 
 JELLY, ALE OR PORTER. For a 
 large sha|x-, put to the prepared stock or 
 jelly, more than lialf a Imttle of -iron _' al,- 
 or porter, a |x>und of loaf ,-iuar, the [xvl of 
 one, and die juice of four large lemons, a 
 slick ot'ciiuiamoii, and tlie Ix-alen whiii - . !" 
 eight e__ - ; put it ail into a saucepan, stir 
 it gently; let it boil for fifteen minutes, and 
 pour it into a jelly-bag till it nuia perfectly 
 clear. 
 
 JKJ.LV, APPLE. (1) Pare, core, and 
 cut thirteen good apples into small bits; as 
 they are cut, throw them into two quarts 
 of cold water; l>il tlicm in this, with the 
 peel of a lemon, till die substance i.- ex- 
 tracted, and nearly half the liquor wasted; 
 drain them through a hair sie\e, and to a 
 pint of tlie liquid add one pound of loaf su- 
 gar poiuuled, the juice of one lemon, and the 
 Beaten whites of one or two eggs; put it into 
 a saucc|>aii, stir it till it luils, take olf the 
 eciun, and let it boil till clear, and then pour 
 it into a mould. 
 
 JELLY, APPLE. (2) Pare and mince 
 three dozen of juicy acid applo, put them 
 into a |i.-in. cover them with water, and boil 
 them till \cry soli; -train tlieia tlirotrgh a 
 tliin cl.ilh or llaimcl \KI; allow a poinul of 
 loaf sunar to a pint of juice; clarity and 
 boil it; add the apple juice, with the grated 
 peel ami juice of six lemons; I mil it for 
 twenty minutes; lake oil' tlie scum as it rises. 
 
 JKLLY, AIM'LK. (3) Pare and cut 
 into slut- eighteen large acid apples; boil 
 them in ;L- much water as will <MU i ihi-m ; 
 when (|nite .-oft, dip a coal si- cloth into hot 
 water, wring it dry, and strain OK; apples 
 through it; to each pint of juice allow tour- 
 teen ounces of line loaf MI.: o , clarity it, and 
 add, with the apple juice, the \ni-\ of a large 
 lemon ; Ixiil it till it jellies, \iliii-h may be in 
 twenty minutes; pick out the lemon peel, 
 and immediately put it into jars. 
 
 JKLLY, AfRICOT. Take eighteen fine 
 apricots, let them be of a nice red color, 
 9* 
 
 stone them, and cut them in pieces into some 
 sirup, (usually made with twelve ounces of 
 sugar, but lor apricot jelly it should be 
 rallwr more liquid than for oilier jellies.) 
 When the fruit is done put it into a napkin, 
 to cxpie-.- out all the juice you possibly can ; 
 which you must add to the sirup in which 
 tlie apricots have been done, and which has 
 Ixvn previously strained through a silk sieve, 
 and after having mixed with it a proper 
 quantity of isinglass to thicken it, finish the 
 same as all other jellies. 
 
 JELLY, ARROW-ROOT. Steep for 
 some hours, in two table-spoonfuls of water, 
 tlie peel of a lemon, and three or four bitter 
 almond- |xmnded ; strain, and mix it with 
 three tablc-s;x>onfuU of arrow-root, the same 
 quantity of lemon-juice, and one of lirandv; 
 sweeten, and stir it over the fire till quite 
 thick, and when quite cold, put it into jelly 
 
 JELLY, BARBERRY. (1) Pick a 
 
 pint ofbarlicrries, and put them into a stew- 
 pan with boiling water, cover it i 
 let it stand till nearly Cold. Set on the lire 
 some clarified siiirar with a little water, 
 (making a quart togetlier ;) when it begins 
 to Ixiil, .-kini ii well, pui in die bail-rnes, 
 let them Ixiil an hour; squeeze, the juice of 
 three lemons through a sieve into a basin, to 
 tliis, (KISS tin- liquor from the barberries, and 
 then tlie isinglass. 
 
 JELLY, BARBERRY. (2) Take some 
 very ripe UuU'iiitu (what quantity you 
 please) and Ix-lore you seed them lake two 
 thirds of their weight in sn-;.ir. Boil your 
 sugar, then put your darUnies into it, and 
 give tlie whole a few Ixiilinijs, then pass it 
 through a silk Me\.- into a pan. pre. iny the 
 barberries with a spoon to extract as much 
 juice as possible from them; this done, put it 
 again our the lire, and when yon perceive 
 it begins to Mini the scum, take it off and 
 pour it into . 
 
 JELLY, BKKAI) FOR AN INVALID. 
 
 Cut the crnm of a |>eiiny roll into thin slices, 
 
 and to.i.-l liieni equally of a pale brown: boil 
 
 > in a quart of water till it will 
 
 a, which may be known by putting a 
 in a .-|KJII to cool; strain it upon a 
 bit of lcmon-|xfl, and sweeten it with sugar. 
 A little wine may be added. 
 
 , JELLY BROTH. See Broth. 
 
 JELLY. r\| IS FEET. (1) Take 
 four feet, slit tliem in two, take away 
 die fat from Ix-twcen tlie claws, w.i.-h lliem 
 well in l.ikeu.un, water; then put tin-in in 
 a large slew pan, and cover them w ith water:
 
 JEL 
 
 102 
 
 JEL 
 
 when the liquor boils, skim it well, and let 
 it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may 
 be reduced to about two quarts; then strain 
 it through a sieve, and skim off all the oily 
 substance which is on the surface of the 
 liquor. 
 
 If you are not in a hurry, it is better to 
 boil the calf's feet the day before you make 
 the jelly; as when the liquor is cold, the 
 oily part being at the top, and the other be- 
 ing firm, with pieces of kitchen pa[>er appli- 
 ed to it, you may remove every particle of 
 the oily substance, without wasting any of 
 the liquor. 
 
 Put the liquor in a stewpan to melt, with 
 a pound of lump sugar, the peel of two lem- 
 ons, the juice of six, six whites and shells of 
 eggs beat together, and a bottle of Sherry or 
 Madeira; whisk the whole together until it is 
 on the boil; then put it by the side of the 
 stove, and let it simmer a quarter of an 
 hour; strain it through a jelly-bag: what is 
 strained first must be poured into the bag 
 again, until it is as bright and as clear as 
 rock-water; then put the jelly in moulds, to 
 be cold and firm : if the weather is too warm, 
 it requires some ice. 
 
 When it is wished to be very stiff, half an 
 ounce of isinglass, may be added when die 
 wine is put in. 
 
 It may be flavored by the juice of various 
 fruits, spices, &c. and colored widi saf- 
 fron, cochineal, red beet juice, spinage juice, 
 claret, &c. ; and it is sometimes made with 
 cherry brandy, or noyeau rouge, or Curacoa, 
 or essence of punch, instead of wine. 
 
 JELLY, CALF'S FEET. (2) Take 
 
 the fiit and bones from eight feet, and soak 
 them in water for tliree or four hours; 
 then boil them in six quarts of water, skim- 
 ming often ; when reduced to a third, strain 
 and set it by to cool ; when cold, take every 
 particle of fat from the top, and remove 
 whatever may have settled at the bottom. 
 Dissolve it in an earthen pan, adding to it 
 two quarts of white wine, mace, cinnamon, 
 and ginger, or not, as you please. Beat up 
 the whites of twelve eggs with three pounds 
 of fine sugar, mix these with the jelly, boil it 
 gently, adding the juice of two lemons, and 
 thru strain it for use. 
 
 JELLY, CHERRY. Take the stones 
 and stalks from two pounds of fine clear 
 ripe cherries ; mix them with a quarter of 
 a pound of red currants, from which the 
 seeds have been extracted; express the 
 juice from these fruits, filter and mix it with 
 three-quarters of a pound of" clarified sugar, 
 and one ounce of isinglass. Finish the .sum- 
 as Barberry jelly. 
 
 JELLY OF CURRANTS, GRAPE, 
 
 RASPBERRY, Are all made precisely 
 in the same manner. When the fruit is full 
 ripe, gather it on a dry day: as soon as it 
 is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and covw 
 it down very close. 
 
 Set tlie jar in a saucepan alxnit tliree 
 parts filled with cold water; put it on a gen- 
 tle fire, and let it simmer for about half an 
 hour. Take the pan from the fire, and (xnir 
 the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag: pass 
 the juice through a second time; do not 
 squeeze the bag. 
 
 To each pint of juice add a pound and a 
 half of very {food lump sugar pounded ; when 
 it is dissolved, put it. into a preserving-pan; 
 set it on the fire, and boil gently; stirring 
 and skimming it the whole time (about thir- 
 ty or forty minutes), i. e. till no more scum 
 rises, and it is perfectly clear anil line: 
 pour it while warm into pots; and when 
 cold, cover them with paper welted in 
 brandy. 
 
 Half a pint of this jelly, dissolved in a 
 pint of brandy or vinegar, will give you ex- 
 cellent currant or raspberry brandy or vine- 
 gar. 
 
 Obs. Jellies from other fruits are made 
 in the same way, and cannot 1*5 preserved 
 in perfection without plentv of good sujjav. 
 
 Those who wish jelly to turn out MTV stiff, 
 dissolve isinglass in a little water, strain 
 through a sieve, and add it in the proportion 
 of half :iii ounce to a pint of juice. ajid jnit 
 it in widi the sugar. 
 
 The l>est way is the clM-apest. Jellies 
 made with two small a proportion of susrar. 
 require boiling so long; there is much more 
 waste of juice and flavor by e\a|x>ration thau 
 the due quantity of sugar costs; and they 
 neither look nor taste half so well. 
 
 JELLY, DAMSON. To eight (winds 
 of damsons, put eight pounds of fine sugar, 
 and half a pint of water; boil them for half 
 an hour over a gentle fire, till the skins 
 break ; then take them off, and set them by 
 for an hour; set diem on the fire again, for 
 half an hour more; set them by airain for 
 the same time; do so the third time; while 
 they stand nt}' the fire, put a weight upon 
 them to keep them under the sirup. The 
 last time, \on must Ixiil them till you per- 
 ceiu 1 the\ are of a very high color in the 
 part where the skin is broken; then take 
 tliem off, set them by to cool, and when they 
 arc coli!, drain off the simp, and make the 
 jelly in the following manner: Boil a quan- 
 tity of green apples, green goost-U-rries, and 
 quince cores, lo a nia.-h ; then strain them 
 through a hair sieve. Take an equal quan- 
 tity of this jelly and the former sirup, and 
 boil them over a gentle fire together till they 
 |t ll\ : skim it well, and while it is hot, put 
 it into glasses or pots.
 
 JEL 
 
 103 
 
 JEL 
 
 JELLY FOR ENTREMETS. Harts- 
 horn, calf's feet, and isiiiglas*, are the usual 
 materials used to coagulate sweet jellies; of 
 tliese three, tlie latter is the best, as. when 
 properly clarified, (for which see isinglass), 
 it is the clearest, and Ir.w no unpleasant 
 flavor. 
 
 JELLY FKflT. Clarify half a pound 
 of sugar, but the instant before it is quite 
 clear, put in a small quantity of cochineal; 
 then strain, and mix with it an ounce of 
 clarified isinglass, and the juice of two lem- 
 oiis; add to this the fruit of which your jel- 
 ly is to be roni|x>sed; stir them together 
 lightly, |x>nr the jelly into a mould quickly, 
 and |>iit the mould on ice. Observe I hat the 
 sugar and isinglass should tx 1 no more than 
 lukewarm when mixed together. These 
 jellies may lie made of any kind of fruit, or 
 the grated rinds of lemon, orange, or ce- 
 drats. 
 
 JELLY, GLOUCESTER. Take an 
 'f i i i\ the same of sago, pearl-bark-\ , 
 hartshoi n-> h;i\ ings, and eringo root; sim- 
 mer with ihree pints of water, till reduced 
 to oiid |, int. .-train it. When cold it will be 
 a jelly ; win n you use it, serve dissolved in 
 wine, milk, or broth. 
 
 JELLY. <;ilAPE. Take out the stone?, 
 tlwn mash the gra|x-s with your hands, (tliey 
 must IK- i i|x-) ^le.n squeeze tliem through a 
 cloth to extract all the juice from them, and 
 Ixiil and linish the same 98 currant jelK. 
 I'se half a pound of sugar to each pound of 
 fruit. 
 
 JELL'S . II \KTSHOK.N. lioil half a 
 pound of hart-horn .-haunts lor three hours 
 and a half in four pints and a half of water; 
 strain it through a hit of muslin, and stir in- 
 to it three ounces of dissolved isingla-s ; if 
 large, (hi- |x-el of one, if small, of two lem- 
 ons, arrl their juice, half the |-el of an or- 
 ange, iliree pat H of a tea-cupful of bnindy, 
 and one of while w iue; swee'.iMi with pound- 
 ed loaf sugar, and when lukewarm [Hit it 
 into a snuce|ian with the Ixaiten white- c.f 
 six eggs : stir it, and let it boil tor two min- 
 utes ; strain it through a jelly-bag two or 
 three limes till |ieifectly clear. 
 
 JELLY, ORANGE. (OSqueezethc juice 
 
 of eight orange- .mil ,-ix lemons, grate the 
 
 peel of half the fruit, and steep it in a pint 
 
 of cold water; mix it with the juice, three- 
 qiiarteis of a |xmnd of loaf sugar, one ounee 
 and a quarter of isinglass, and the beaten 
 whites of 4-\eu e^s; (Hit it into a fuuioe- 
 pan, and stir it till it lx>il- ; let it boil a fe 
 minutes, and strain it through a jelly-Uiv till 
 clear; put it into a mould or I;|;L-S.--. 
 
 JELLY, ORANGE. (2) Boil in a 
 
 pint of water one ounce and a quarter of 
 picked isinglass, the rind of an orange cut 
 thin, a stick of cinnamon, a lew coriaiiders, 
 and three ounces of loaf su;;ar, till the isin- 
 glass is dissolved; then sque<-y.e two Seville 
 oranges or lemons, and enough oranges to 
 make a pint of juice: mix all together, and 
 strain it through a (amis or lawn sieve into 
 a basin ; H it in a cold place for half an 
 hour ; pour it into another basin free from 
 .-edimcut ; and \vlieu it begins to congeal, 
 till your mould : when wanted, dip the 
 mould into lukewarm water ; turn it out on 
 a dish, and garnish with orange or lemon 
 cut in slices, and placed round. N. B. A 
 few grains of saftron put in the water will 
 add much to Its appearance. 
 
 JEIXY, OX-HEEL. Slit them in two. 
 and take away the fat between the claws. 
 The proportion of water to each heel is 
 aljout a quart : let it simmer gently for eight 
 hours (keeping it clean skimmed); it will 
 make a pint and a half of strong jelly, which 
 is fre |iieiitly used to make calf's feet jelly, 
 or to add to mock turtle and otlier soups. 
 
 JELLY, PEACH. Cut ten or twelve 
 peaches in halves, take out the stones and 
 peel them ; set a pint of smooth clarified su- 
 gar, diluted with water, on the fire; when 
 it has boiled and been skimmed, put in the 
 peaches, the kernels should be broken and 
 put in with them; let them boil, very gently 
 for ten minutes, then take out four or five 
 i if i lie halves, and lay them on a plate to be 
 in readiness for garnishing the jelly; let 
 the remainder of the peaches boil for ten 
 minutes longer; while they are Ixiiling take 
 three lemons, cut off the rind, squeeze the 
 juice through a silk sieve in a basin, pas 
 i he liquor of the |x-arlivs into it, and then 
 the isinglass, running it through the sieve 
 two or three times, in order to mix it well; 
 fill the mould half full of jelly, and v. lieu set. 
 put in llie peaches and a little more jelly, 
 and when tli.it is set, (ill up the mould. 
 The reason why the lemons are |xvlni lx>- 
 lore the\ are sqnee/.ed li>r this jelly is, that 
 the oil in the rind would rather sfxiil tile fla- 
 vor of the jelly, than be any addition. 
 
 JELLY, QUINCE. Quinces for jelly 
 ought not to be quid* ripe, they should, how- 
 ever, be of a fine yellow color; take off the 
 down which covers them, quarter, core, put 
 
 them into a saucepan, with water e i.di to 
 
 cover them; set llw-iu on the fire, and when 
 soft, lay the pieces on a sieve to drain, 
 pre ing them \er\ slightly; strain the li- 
 quor, .oid measure it; clarify, and Imil to 
 ensue an <i|iial quantity of sugar; then take 
 it i .If. add the liqni r to it, stirring it well;
 
 JU I 
 
 104 
 
 KAV 
 
 when mixed, put it on the fire, still stirring; 
 a^ si inn as the jelly spreads over the spoon, 
 and tails from it like treacle ; take it from 
 the fire, and when cold, pour it into pots. 
 
 JELLY, RASPBERRY. Take two 
 thirds of nisberries, and one third red cur- 
 rants; pick them, press the juioe through a 
 sieve into a pan, cover, and place it in a 
 cellar, or any other cool place for three days ; 
 at the end of that time r.iise the thick skin 
 formed at the top, and pour the juice into 
 another vessel: weigh it, and put it, with 
 half the quantity of sugar, into a preserving 
 pan, set it oil the fire; a great deal of scum 
 will rise at first, which must all be taken oft ; 
 leave it on the fire for an hour ; then pour a 
 few drops on a cold plate, if it cools of the 
 proper consistence for jellies, take it from 
 the fire and whilst hot pour it into pots ; 
 Let the jelly be quite cold before the pots are 
 covered. 
 
 JELLY, RUM. Clarify, and boil to a 
 sirup, a pound of loaf sugar ; dissolve one 
 ounce of isinglass in half a pint of water, 
 strain it through a sieve into the sirup when 
 it is half warm, and when nearly cold, stir 
 in a quart of white wine; mix it well, and 
 add one or two table-spoonfujs of old Ja- 
 maica rum, stir it for a few minutes, and 
 pour it into a mould, or into glasses. 
 
 JELLY, STRAWBERRY. Put some 
 fresh-gathered straw lierries into an earthen 
 pan, bruise them with a wooden spoon, add 
 a little cold water, and some finely-pounded 
 loaf sugar. In an hour or two, strain it 
 through a jelly-bag, and to a quart of the 
 juice a-ld one ounce of isinglass, which has 
 been dissolved in half a pint of water, weil- 
 skiimned, strained, and allowed to cool; mix 
 all well, and pour it into an earthen mould. 
 
 Rasplx'irv jelly, red currant jelly, and red 
 currants mixed with raspberries, may be 
 ii-tly in the same manner; and the 
 bi i^ht red color may lx; improved by mixing 
 in a litile carmine or lake. When this kind 
 of jelly is to l)e made with cherries, the fruit 
 should l>e boiled a few minutes in clarified 
 sn'_;>ir, and when cold, tile juice of one or two 
 lemons may be added with the isinglass. 
 
 A little lemon juice may be added to any 
 of the other jellies, in proportion to the acid- 
 ity of the fruit. 
 
 Tliey may be iced by covering and sur- 
 rounding tlie mould with ice, without any salt. 
 
 JUICE. The proportion of oranges 
 should be double that of lemons; the fruit 
 beini: selected free from decay, and wiped 
 dry, they are to be squeezed, and the juice 
 strained through a sie\e into an earthen pan ; 
 to each pint, according to the acidity of the 
 
 fruit, a pound and a half, or a pound and 
 three-quarters, of double-refined sugar, bro- 
 ken small, is to l>e added. It must Ix- stirred 
 and skimmed daily, till the sugar is well in- 
 corporated, or as long as the scum rises; 
 and when it has been a month in the pan, it 
 may be boiled. 
 
 JUICE OF FRESH FRUIT ICED. 
 
 Press through a sieve the juice of a pint of 
 pickled currants or raspberries, add to it 
 four or five ounces of pounded loaf sugar, a 
 little lemon juice, and a pint of cream. It 
 may be whisked previous to freezing, and a 
 mixture of the juice may be used. 
 
 JULIENNE. This soup is composed 
 of carrots, turnips, leeks, onions, celery, let- 
 tuce, sorrel and chervil ; the roots are cut in 
 thin slips, about an inch long, the onions are 
 halved and then sliced ; the lettuce and sor- 
 rel chopped small; toss lip the roots in a 
 little butter, when they are done, add the 
 lettuces, &c. moisten them with broth, and 
 boil the whole over a slow fire for an hour or 
 more, if necessary; prepare some bread in 
 the usual way, and pour the julienne over it. 
 
 JUMBLES. Mix one pound of fine 
 flour with one pound of fine powder sugar, 
 make them into a light paste with whites of 
 eggs well beaten ; add half a pint of cream, 
 half a pound of fresh butter, melted, and a 
 pound of blanched almonds, pounded ; knead 
 them all together, thoroughly, with a little 
 rose water, and cut out the jumbles into 
 whatever forma you think proper; and eith- 
 er bake them in a gentle oven, or fry tliein 
 in fresh butter; serve them in a dish, melt 
 fresh butter with a spoonful of mountain, and 
 Miew line sugar over the dish. 
 
 JUSTICE'S ORAJVGE SIRUP FOR 
 PUNCH OR PUDDINGS. Squeeze the or- 
 anges, and strain the juice from the pulp 
 into a large pot; boil it up with a pound and 
 a half of fine sugar to each pint of juice; 
 skim it well; let it stand till cold; then 
 bottle it, and cork it well. Obs. This 
 makes a fine, soft, mellow-flavored punch; 
 and, added to melted butter, is a good lelish 
 to puddings. 
 
 K. 
 
 KAVIA. Take the hard roes of several 
 sturgeon, and lay them in a tub of water; 
 take away all the fibres as you would from 
 a calf's brains, then, with a whisk, beat the 
 rocs in the water, shaking off from the whisk 
 whatever fibres may be adhering to it; then 
 lay the roes on sieves for a short time ; after
 
 KID 
 
 105 
 
 KIS 
 
 which put tin-in into fresh water again ; and 
 continue to whip tlietn, ami change tin- wa- 
 ter, until the roes are perfectly cleansed anil 
 free from lilnv; lay them on sieves tn drain, 
 season them \\i-ll with salt and |x-pper; 
 wrap them in a coarse cloth, tun;; them up 
 like a ball, and let them drain thus till tin- 
 next day, when serve tliem with fried bread, 
 and shallots chopped small. If they are to 
 be kt-pt in- sometime, put more silt to tlirin. 
 
 K KNOBBED VEAL. See Veal. 
 KELLY'S SAUCE. See Sauce. 
 
 KERRY BUTTER MILK. Put six 
 quart* of butter-milk into a cheese cloth, 
 hang it in a cool place, and let the wliey 
 drip from it lor two or three days; when it 
 is rather thick, put it into a brain, sweeten 
 it with pounded loaf sugar, and add a glass 
 of brandy, or of sweet wine, and as much 
 rosplxjrry j mi, or sirup, as will color and 
 give it an agreeable flavor. Whisk it well 
 togeth it in a glass dish. 
 
 KI.K 1111', ENGLISH. Peel ten 
 clo\<-< of garlic, bruise them, and put them in- 
 to a quart of white wine vinegar; takeai|iiart 
 of white I'oii, put it ou the lire, and wlien it 
 boils, put in twelve or fourteen anchovies, 
 washed and cut in pieces; let them simmer 
 in the wine till they are dissolved; when 
 cold, put i in-ill to the vinegar; then take 
 half a pint of white wine, and put into it 
 some : ginger sliced, a i,-\\ 
 
 a spoonful of whole pepper bruised ; let them 
 boil a little; when almost cold, slice ill a 
 whole nutmeg, and some lemon-peel, with 
 two or tliri-<- spoonfuls of horse-radish ; add 
 it to it close, and stir it once 
 
 or tv. Keep it close stopped up. 
 
 See Mushroom Ketchup. 
 
 Ki:\V MIXC'E. Cut a pound of meat 
 from i ..asted mutton, and mince 
 
 it v i her with six oun 
 
 suet,' mix wilii ii three or four iablc->|x>n- 
 fuls of cnimlis of bread, the Ix-aU-n yolks of 
 lour i-^<, one anchovy chopped, some pep- 
 per and -,iii, and half a pint of 1'ort wine; 
 put it into a c.iul of veal, and bake it in a 
 quick oven ; turn it out into a dish, and |>' .in- 
 some brown ra\y our it; serve with it 
 'e. Wlien a \i-al caul is not to 
 be had, the mince, may be done in a sauce- 
 pan. 
 
 KID. Kid is good eating uhen it is but 
 tin..' or lour months old, its flesh \ then 
 delicate ami tender, but is not used after it 
 
 To be good, it in- 
 
 i and -AIM--. It is dressed in the sunic 
 manner as lamb or fawn. 
 
 KIDNEYS. Cut them through the long 
 way, score them, and sprinkle them over 
 with a little jtcpjxT and salt; in order to 
 broil all over alike, and to keep them from 
 curling on the gridiron, run a wire skewer 
 riijht through them. They must lie broiled 
 OM-I- a clear fire, being careful to turn them 
 frequently till they are done; they will take 
 alxnit ten or twelve minutes broiling, provi- 
 ded they are done over a brisk fire ; or, if 
 MJII choose, you may fry them in butter, and 
 make gravy for them in the [Kin (after the 
 kidm-vsare taken out), by putting in a tea- 
 spoonful of flour; as soon as it looks brown, 
 put in a sufficient quantity of water as will 
 make gravy ; they will take five minutes 
 longer frying than broiling. Garnish with 
 fried parsley: you may improve them if you 
 think pr<>|X'r, by chopping a few jxirsley 
 leaves very fine, mix them with a bit of fresh 
 butter, and a little pepper and Kilt, and then 
 put some of this mixture over each kidney. 
 
 KISSES. (1) Put the whites of ei-ht 
 eggs, and two spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water, into a China basin, and whisk till 
 they become a firm froth, then add half a 
 IHiiiiid of sifted sugar, stir it in with 
 care by means of a spatula: that done, lay 
 small pieces of this mixture on white |>aper; 
 make each drop about the size of a ratafia, 
 rather conical than flat; place the paper 
 which contains them on a piece of wood 
 about an inch thick, and put them in a very 
 hot oven: watch them, and as soon as you 
 \e they begin to look yellowish, take 
 tliem out, and detach them MB tin; |>aper 
 with a knife as cautiously as possible, fo 
 lliey are very tender. Take a small s[x>on, 
 and with die end of it remove tlie moist part, 
 which is at the bottom, so as to make tliem 
 a little hollow, and as you do tic 
 on the paper, the hollow side upwards; put 
 them on tin; wood into the ou-n again for a 
 few minutes to dry; when done, I. iy tliem 
 in boxes, and keep them in a dry and warm 
 place. If they are for table, fill the hollow 
 nil a little, whip) nil cream or rasp- 
 IK-ITV jam; put them together by couples, 
 the cream or jam inside; place them in a 
 di-h, and serve them as soon as po- 
 
 KISSKS. (2) One pound of the best loaf 
 sujjar, powdervd and sifted. Tin- whites of 
 four Ogge. Twelve dr|*i of essence of |i-ui- 
 on. A tea-cup of em-ram ji -IK. IVal the 
 whites of four eggs till th-\ -t:unl alone. 
 Then beat in, gradually, UK: sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful at a time. Add tlie essence of lem- 
 on, and U-at tlie whole very hard. Lay a 
 wet shcvt of |Ki|xTon tin- 1*. itoin ofa square 
 tin pan. Drop on it, at equal distances, a 
 sin. ill tea-epoonful of stifi' currant jelly. 
 With a large spoou, pile some of the beaten
 
 LAM 
 
 106 
 
 LAM 
 
 white of egg and sugar, on each lump of 
 jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on 
 the mixture as evenly as possible, so ;LS to 
 make tin: kisses of a round smooth shape. 
 Set thciii in a cool oven, and as soon as 
 they are colored, they are done. Then take 
 them out and place them two bottoms to- 
 gether. Lay them lightly on a sieve, and 
 dry them in a cool oven, till the two bot- 
 toms stick fast together, so as to form one 
 ball or oval. 
 
 KNUCKLES. See the several meats 
 to which they belong. 
 
 LAMB. The fore quarter of lamb con- 
 sists of the shoulder, the neck, and the 
 breast together; the hind quarter is the leg 
 and loin. There are also the head and 
 pluck, the fry or sweetbreads, skirts, lamb- 
 stones, and liver. In choosing the fore 
 quarter, the vein in the neck should be rud- 
 dy, or of a bluish color. In the hind quar- 
 ter, the knuckle should feel stiff, the kidney 
 small, and perfectly fresh. To keep it, the 
 joints should be carefully wiped every day, 
 and in warm weather, sprinkled with a lit- 
 tle pepper. The fore quarter is the prime 
 joint, and should be roasted and basted 
 with butter ; the gravy is made as for beef 
 or mutton. Mint sauce is served in a sauce 
 tureen, and half a lemon is sent to table 
 with it, the juice of which is squeezed upon 
 the ribs after die shoulder is cut off, and 
 thoj have been sprinkled with salt. If the 
 jeunt weighs five pounds, it will require to 
 be rVoasted one hour; if ten pounds, one hour 
 and three-quarters. The hind quarter may 
 be roasted, or the leg of it boiled. The 
 loin is then cut into steaks, fried, and serv- 
 ed round it ; the outside bones being cover- 
 ed with a fringe of fried parsley. A dish 
 of spinach is generally served with the 
 lamb. 
 
 LAMB, Is a delicate, and commonly 
 considered tender meat ; but those who talk 
 of tender lamb, while they are thinking of 
 the age of the animal, forget that even a 
 chicken must be kept a proper time after it 
 has been killed, or it will be tough picking. 
 To the usual accompaniments of roasted 
 meat, green mint sauce, and a salad, is com- 
 monly added; and some cooks, about five 
 minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a 
 little fresh gathered and finely minced pars- 
 ley. - Lamb, and all young meats, ought to be 
 thoroughly done; therefore do not take either 
 lamb or veal off the spit till you see it drop 
 white gravy. When green mint cannot be 
 
 got, mint vinegar is an acceptable substitute 
 for it ; and crisp parsley on a side plate, is 
 an admirable accompaniment. 
 
 Hind-Quarter, Of eight pounds, will 
 take from an hour and three-quarters to two 
 hours: baste and froth it. The li-<r and 
 the loin of lamb, when little, should be 
 roasted together ; the former being lean, the 
 latter fat, and the gravy is better prr.-ir\Ml. 
 
 Fare-Quarter, Often pounds, about two 
 hours. It is a pretty general custom, when 
 you take off the shoulder from the ribs, to 
 squeeze a Seville orange over them, and 
 sprinkle them with a little pepper and salt. 
 This may as well be done by the cook be- 
 fore it comes to table; some people are not 
 remarkably ex|>ert at dividing these joints 
 nicely. 
 
 Leg, Of five pounds, from an hour to an 
 hour and a half. 
 
 Shoulder, With a quick fire, an hour. 
 
 Ribs, About an hour to an hour and a 
 quarter: joint it nicely, crack the ribs across, 
 and divide them from the briskut after it ia 
 roasted. 
 
 Loin, An hour and a quarter. 
 
 Neck, An hour. QQ 
 
 Breast, Three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 LAMB BREAST. Cut it into pieces, 
 and stew it in a weak stock, with a ^lass 
 of Port wine; add pepper and salt. \\ hen 
 it is perfectly tender, thicken the sauce 
 with butter and flour. Have ready cucum- 
 bers stewed in gravy, put them over the 
 lamb before serving. A bre:ist of mutton 
 may be served in the same way. 
 
 LAMB CHOPS BROILED. Cut a 
 
 loin or best end of the neck into chops, flat- 
 ten them, and cut off the fat and skin; rub 
 the gridiron with a little fat, and broil them 
 on a clear fire. Turn them with steak tongs, 
 till quite done. Serve them hot. 
 
 LAMB CHOPS. Cut a neck or loin of 
 lamb into chops; rub them over with the 
 beaten yolk of an egg; dip them into Crated 
 bread, mixed with plenty of chopped pars- 
 ley, and season with lemon-peel, pepper, 
 and salt; fry them alight brown in good 
 dripping; make a sauce with the trimming*, 
 and thicken the sauce with butter rolled in 
 flour; add a little lemon pickle and mush- 
 room ketchup. Garnish with fried parsley. 
 They may be served with or without the 
 gravy. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS. Cut the cutlets off 
 the loin, into round bits ; trim off the fat and 
 skin ; dip them into the beaten yolk of an 
 egg, and then into bread crumbs, mixed 
 with minced parsley, grated nutmeg, and 
 lemon-peel, pepper, and salt. Fry them a
 
 LAM 
 
 107 
 
 LAR 
 
 light brown in clarified beef suet; drain 
 them on the bark of a sieve before the fire. 
 Serve llx-m with melted butter with a little 
 lemon pickle in it, or a brown sauce thick- 
 ened. Garnish with cut lemon. 
 
 LAMB DRESSED WITH RICE. 
 
 Half roast a small lore quarter of lamb; cut 
 it into steaks, season thorn with a little salt 
 and pepper; lay them into a dish, and pour 
 in a little- water. Boil a pound of rice 
 with a blade or two of mace; strain it, and 
 stir in a good piece of fresh butter, and a 
 little salt, add also the greater part of the 
 yolk* i if four eggs beaten; cover the lamb 
 with the rice, and with a feather put over 
 it the remainder of the beaten egifs. Bake 
 it in an men till it has acquired a light 
 brown color. 
 
 LAMB FEET. Clean, well wash, and 
 blanch six lamb's feet; stew them, till they 
 'iider, in some white stock, with a 
 Klice dt lean ham, one onion, some parsley, 
 1 ! \vo blades of mace, a little whole 
 
 pepper, and a few mushrooms. Before 
 serving, strain die sauce ; thicken it with 
 flour a|d butter, and half a pint of crram; 
 boil it a quarter of an hour, add the feet 
 and the juice of half a small lemon. Gar- 
 nish with sip|N-U< of thin toasted bread, cut 
 into a three-cornered shape. 
 
 LAMB FRY. Fry it plain, or dip it 
 : well beaten on a plate, and strew 
 some line -t:i!e bread-crumbs over it; gar- 
 nish with crisp parsley. 
 
 LAMB, LEG OF, BOILED. It should 
 
 in a cluth, that it may look as 
 l>ossible. Cut the loin in steaks, 
 dip them in egg, strew them over with 
 bread-numbs, and fry them a nice brown, 
 serve theai round the di.-h, and garnish with 
 dried or fried parsley ; serve with spinach 
 to eat with it. 
 
 LAMB PIE, THE GERMAN' WAY. 
 Cut a quarter of lamb into pieces, and lard 
 MB With small lardons of IKICO;.. 
 ed with salt, pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and a 
 Ixiy-li-af; add fat bacon pounded, small on- 
 ious, iiutiiie^. and sweet herbs; put these 
 into the pie, and let it bake for three hours ; 
 when l>aki-d, cut it open, skim oft' all tin- 
 fat, |x)iir in a ragout of oysters, and serve 
 hot. 
 
 LA M B PIE, A SAVORY ONE. Cut 
 
 the meat into pieces, and season it with 
 
 pep|-r. salt, mace, cloves, and nutmeg, 
 
 ' . M ike a good puff paste 
 
 ..it., it, with a few 
 
 .no and sweetbreads, seasoned 
 
 the same as the meat. Then put in gome 
 oysters and forcemeat balls, the yolks of 
 hard e^<;s, and the tops of asparagus, about 
 two inches long, first boiled green. Put 
 Ixittor all over the pie, put on the lid, and 
 let it bake tor an hour and a half in a quick 
 oven. In the meantime, take a pint of gra- 
 vy, the oyster liquor, a gill of red wine, and 
 a little grated nutmeg. Mix all together 
 with the yolks of two or three eggs, finely 
 beaten, and keep stirring it tlie same way 
 all the time. When it boils, pour it into 
 the pie, put on die lid again, and serve it to 
 table. 
 
 LAMB, TO ROAST OR BOIL. A 
 
 quarter of an hour is generally allowed to 
 each pound of meat ; a leg of lamb of five 
 pounds will therefore take an hour and a 
 quarter to roast or boil, the other joints in 
 the same proportion ; serve either with sa- 
 lad, pickles, brocoli, cauliflowers, string 
 beans, pease, potatoes, or cucumbers, raw 
 or stewed. 
 
 LAMB SHOULDER, GRILLED. Boil 
 it ; score it in chequers about in inch square, 
 nib it over with die yolk of an egg, pepper 
 and salt it, strew it with bread-cnimbs and 
 dried par.-ley, or sweet lierlw, and carbo- 
 nado, i. e. grill, i. e. broil it over a clear 
 fire, or put it in a Dutch oven till it is a 
 nice light brown ; send up some graw with 
 it, or make a sauce for it of flour and water 
 well mixed together with an ounce of fresh 
 butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom or 
 walnut ketchup, and die juice of half a lem- 
 on. See Grill sauce. Breasts of lamb 
 are often done in the same way, and with 
 mushroom or mutton sauce. 
 
 LAMB STEAKS FRIED. Fry them 
 of the nicest brown; when served, throw 
 over them a good quantity of crumbs of 
 bread fried, and crisped parsley. Or you 
 
 may season them and broil tlu'in in buttered 
 papers, either with crumbs and herbs, or 
 without, according to ta.-te. 
 
 LARD, HOG'S. The lard should be 
 carefully niched in a jar, put into a kettle 
 qfMter, and boiled; nm it into bladders 
 IM: brt-u particularly well cleaned. 
 Ivv best to have tlie bladders small, as toe 
 lard will keep better, for, after the air 
 reaches it, it becomes rank. Whilst it is 
 melting, put in a sprig of rosemary. This 
 being a very useful article in frying fish, it 
 should lie prepared with great care. Mix- 
 ed with baiter, it makes a fine crust. 
 
 LARKS. These delicate little birds are 
 in high season in November. Wtan they 
 arc thoroughly picked, gutted, and cleansed,
 
 LEI 
 
 108 
 
 LEM 
 
 truss them; do diem over with the yolk of 
 egg, and then roll them in bread-crumbs ; 
 8j>it them on a lark spit, and fasten that on 
 to a larger spit, ten or fifteen minutes will 
 lx> sufficient time to roast them in before a 
 quick lire; whilst they are roasting, baste 
 them with fresh butter, and sprinkle them 
 with bread-crumbs till they are well cover- 
 ed with them. Fry some grated bread in 
 butter, set it to drain before the fire, that it 
 may harden. Serve the crumbs in the dish 
 under the larks, and garnish with slices of 
 lemon. 
 
 LAVENDER DROPS. Fill a quart 
 bottle with the blossoms of lavender, and 
 pour on it as much brandy as it will contain ; 
 let it stand ten days, then strain it, and add 
 of nutmeg bruised, cloves, mace, and cochi- 
 neal, a quarter of an ounce each, and bot- 
 tle it for use. In nervous cases, a little may- 
 be taken dropped on a bit of sugar; and in 
 the beginning of a bowel complaint, a tea- 
 spoonful, taken in half a glass of pepper- 
 mint water, will often prove efficacious. 
 
 LAVENDER WATER. Put into a 
 large bottle, eight ounces of the best recti- 
 fied spirits of wine, three drachms of oil of 
 lavender, one drachm of essence of ainlier- 
 gris, and threepence-worth of musk ; cork 
 it tightly, and shake it well every day, for 
 a fortnight or three weeks. 
 
 LEAVES, TO GREEN, FOR ORNA- 
 MENTING FRUIT. Take small leaves 
 of a pear-tree, keep them close stopped in 
 a pan of verjuice and water, give them a 
 boil in some sirup of apricots; put them l>e- 
 tween two pieces of glass to dry; smooth 
 and cut them into the shape of apricot- 
 leaves (the leaves should be procured with 
 stalks) ; stick them alwut the apricots or 
 any other preserved fruit; but the leaves 
 must be cut in the shape of the leaf which 
 belongs to the fruit you ornament. 
 
 LEEKS. Leeks are most generally used 
 for soups, ragouts, and other made dishes, 
 they are very rarely brought to table ; in 
 which case dress them as follows: Put 
 tin-in into the stock-pot till about three parts 
 done; then take them out, drain, and soak 
 them in vinegar seasoned with pepper, salt, 
 and cloves; drain them again, stuff the 
 hearts with afarce, dip them in batter, and 
 fry them. 
 
 LEIPZEGER PANCAKES. Beat well 
 the whites of four, and the yolks of eight 
 fresh eggs, and add, by degrees, half a 
 pound of pounded loaf sugar, a pint and a 
 half of sweet cream just warmed, half a 
 pound of clarified fresh butter, two table- 
 
 spoonfhls of fresh yeast, and a wine-glass fall 
 nt spirits i >f wine ; then mix in as much sifted 
 (lour as- will make it into a thick butter; 
 let it rise for half an hour ; roll it out thin ; 
 cut it into rounds or oblong pieces, and lay 
 on them jam or marmalade; double them, 
 and let them stand again to rise, and fry 
 them in boiling fresh lard or butter. 
 
 LEMONADE. To a gallon of spring 
 water add some cinnamon and cloves, plen- 
 ty of orange and plenty of lemon-juice, and 
 a bit of the peel of each ; sweeten well with 
 loaf sugar, and whisk it with the whites of 
 six eggs, and the yolk of one; give it a boil, 
 and then let it simmer for ten minutes ; then 
 run it through a jelly-bag, and let it stand 
 till cold, before it is drank. 
 
 LEMONADE TRANSPARENT. The 
 
 peel of fourteen lemons having been soaked 
 in two quarts of water for two hours, their 
 juice, one pound and a half of sugar, and a 
 quart of white wine, are to be added ; a 
 quart of new milk, made boiling hot, is then 
 to be mixed with it, and when it has stood 
 an hour, it is to be strained through a jelly- 
 bag till it rung clear. 
 
 LEMON BONBONS. Take two pounds 
 of the best lump sugar, clarify and boil it to 
 caramel; but just Ix'fore it reaches that 
 point, grate the rind of a lemon and put in 
 it; in the meanwhile molt a little butter; 
 skim, and pour it off clear; take a spoonful 
 of this butter, and nib it with your hand over 
 a copperplate or marble slab, on which pour 
 the caramel sugar: then have a sword blade, 
 take an end in each hand, and impress lines 
 in the sugar about an inch apart ; then im- 
 press similar lines across tile first, so as to 
 form small cakes ; this operation should be 
 performed as quicklv as possible, lest the 
 sugar should cool before the whole is mark- 
 ed ; when however all is done, pass the 
 blade carefully between the sugar and the 
 slab, lay it on sheets of white paper, and 
 when perfectly cold, separate the bonbons, 
 and wrap each in paper; keep them in a 
 dry place. 
 
 LEMON BRANDY. Three quarts of 
 brandy being put into an earthen jar that is 
 fitted with a cover, a pound and three-quar- 
 ters of fine loaf sugar, the thin parings of 
 six lemons, and the juice of twelve, are to 
 be added ; one quart of boiling milk is to be 
 poured over the mixture, which must be 
 stirred daily for eight days; it is then to be 
 run through a jelly-bag and bottled. 
 
 LEMON CHEESECAKES. Boil the 
 peel of two large lemons till they are quite 
 tender, and then pound it well in a mortar,
 
 LEM 
 
 109 
 
 I. KM 
 
 with four or five ounces of loaf sugar, tin: 
 yolks of six eg<{s, Imlf a |H>iiud of fre>h but- 
 ter, anil :i little curd lieaten line: pound and 
 mix altogether, lay a rich aaff paste in some 
 pum-pans, till tlicin h.ilf full, and bake them 
 carefully. 
 
 LK.MON < 'I I KKSKCAKES. Mix four 
 ounces of sifted luiup sugar, and tour ounces 
 of Imtier together, and gently melt it; then 
 add the yolks of two, and the white of one 
 egg. the rind of three lemons shred tine, and 
 the juice of one lemon and a half, one sa- 
 vory biscuit, some lilanrlu'd almonds, pound- 
 ed, three spoonfuls of hrandv ; mix the 
 whole well together, and [Kit it to paste 
 made with the following ingredients: eight 
 ounces of (lour, .-ix ounces of butter, two- 
 thirds of which mast be mixed with the 
 flour lirst; then wet it with six spoonfuls of 
 water, and roll in the remainder of the but- 
 ter. 
 
 LF.Mc>\ ( 'HIPS. Take large sroooth- 
 rindi d Mala-. i lemons; race or cut off their 
 peel into clii|is with a small knife (this will 
 require .-..in,- pnriiii; to do it properly) ; 
 throw them into >alt and water till next 
 day; ha\e rcadv a pan of Imiling water, 
 throw ihejii in and Uiil them tender. Drain 
 them well: after having lain sometime in 
 water to cool, put them in an earthen pan, 
 pour over enough U>iling clarified sugar to 
 cover them, and then let them lie two days ; 
 ih. .1 -train the sirup, put more sugar, and 
 reduce it by lulling till tlie sirup is <| r .iite 
 thick; put in the chips, and simmei- them a 
 few minutes, and net tliem by lor two days: 
 repeat it owe more ; let them be two days 
 longer, and they will ix- lit to candy, which 
 MIII.-I ! done as 1'ollows: lake four pints of 
 cLirilied sugar, which will \*> sufficient for 
 six poiin<b< of chips, boil it to the degree of 
 blown (which may lie known by dipping tin; 
 skimmer into ihe. sugar, and blow inn Mroug- 
 ly through the holes of it; if little bladders 
 appear, it |I;LS attained that degree); and 
 when the chips are thoroughly drained ami 
 wi|M-.| on a clean cloth, put them into UK; 
 sirup, siiirin',' them almut with the skimmer 
 tiil you see die sugar liecoine white; then 
 take them out with two forks; shake them 
 light!} into a wire sieve, and set them into 
 .r in a w ai in plai-e to dry. Orange 
 done in tiw; same way. 
 
 1 . 1! M ) \ r.SS I : \ CE. Rasp your lem- 
 onu all round, v<-ry thin, anil for every Cur- 
 ler of a pniiiid of rind, allow one poOOO of 
 sugar; mix it well with a large spadille till 
 you find it i.- all of the same color, and that 
 tile rind is well mixed ; put it into a stone 
 jar, and pr< -.-.- i: .|..wn as hard as you can; 
 put a bladder over the pa|*-r you cover with, 
 10 
 
 and tie it over quite tight; put it by, and in 
 a month's time it will be fit for use'. 
 
 LEMO.N JUICE TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Squeeze, and strain a pint of lemon-juice; 
 put into a China ba.-in one pound of duiihle- 
 relincd sugar finely |x>unded and sifted, add 
 the lemon-juice, and stir it with a silver 
 spoon till the sugar be perfectly dissolved. 
 Bottle it, and cork it tightly ; seal the cork, 
 or tie bladder over it, and keep it in a dry 
 cool place. 
 
 LEMON MARMALADE. Allow to a 
 pound of lemons eighteen ounces of tine 
 iosif sugar; grate the rind of a few; cut 
 them into half; squeeze and strain the juice ; 
 boil the skins in the same way as those 
 of the orange skins are done; scoop out the 
 pulp and white part; cut half into thin chips 
 or parings, and pound the other half in a 
 mortar ; pound the sugar, and pour over it 
 the juice; stir, and let it boil for five min- 
 utes; skim it; take it ofTthe fire; put in the 
 parings and the pounded skins; boil it for 
 five minutes, i hen add the grated peel, and let 
 it lil for five minutes more ; take it off, and 
 stir it till half cold, before putting it into jars. 
 
 I. KMON MINCE PIES. Squeeze out 
 the juice from a large lemon ; boil the out- 
 side till sufficiently tender to beat to a mash, 
 add to it three large apples chopped, and 
 four ounces of suet, half a pound of currants, 
 four ounces of sugar; put the juice of the 
 lemon, and add candied fruit, the same as 
 ("i- other pies. Make a short crust, and fill 
 lite patty-pans in the usual manner. 
 
 LEMON-PEEL ESSENCE. Wash 
 
 and brush clean the lemons ; let them get 
 l-i fee tly dry: take a lump of loaf sugar, and 
 ruli iii. -m till all the yellow rind is taken up 
 by the Migar: scrape off tlie surface of the 
 sugar into a preserving pot, and press it 
 hard down ; cover it very close, and it will 
 keep r.r sometime. 
 
 I.KMON-PEEL QUINTESSENCE. 
 Best oil of lemon, one drachm, strongest 
 rectified spirit, two ounces, introduced by 
 deOM till tha spirit kills, and completely 
 
 h tl il. This elegant prepara- 
 
 tion possesses all the delightful fragrance and 
 flavor of the freshest lemon-peel. Obs. A 
 few drops on tlie sugar you make punch with 
 will instantly impregnate it with as much 
 ll.ivor a- the troublesome and tedious meth- 
 od of grating the rind, or rubbing the sugar 
 on il. It will lie found a superlative sub- 
 stitute for fresh lemon-peel lor every purpose 
 tiiat it is used for: blancmange, jellies, cus- 
 tards, ice, negus, lemonade, and pies and pud- 
 dings', stuffings, soups, sauces, ragouts, &c.
 
 LEM 
 
 110 
 
 LEM 
 
 LEMON-PEEL TINCTURE. A very 
 easy and economical way of obtaining, and 
 preserving the flavor of lemon-peel, h to fill 
 a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of bran- 
 dy, or proof spirit ; and when you use a 
 lemon, pare the rind off very thin, and put 
 it into the brandy, &c.: in a fortnight it 
 will impregnate tlie spirit with the flavor 
 very strongly. 
 
 LEMON PICKLE. (1) Grate off a 
 little of the outer rind of two dozen of lem- 
 ons; divide them into four rather more than 
 half way down, leaving the bottom part 
 whole; rub on them equally half a ]xnnid 
 of finely-beaten salt, spread them upon a 
 large dish, and put them into a cool oven. 
 When the juice has dried up, put them into 
 a stone jar, with an ounce of cloves and one 
 of mace finely Ijeaten, one ounce of nutmeg 
 cut into thin slices, a quarter of an ounce of 
 cayenne, and four ounces of garlic peeled, 
 also half a pint of white mustard-seed bruis- 
 ed and tied in a bit of muslin. Pour over 
 the whole two quarts of boiling vinegar, 
 stop the jar closely, and let it stand for three 
 months; then strain it through a hair sieve, 
 pressing it well through ; let it stand till die 
 next day, pour off the clear, and put it into 
 small Iwttles. Ix>t the dregs stand covered 
 somC days, when it will become tine. It 
 will keep good for years. When the lem- 
 ons are to be used as pickle, no straining is 
 necessary. 
 
 LEMON PICKLE. (2) Cut into quar- 
 ters, and pick out all the seeds of six mid- 
 dling sized lemons; put them into a jar, 
 strew over them two ounces of well beaten 
 salt; cover the jar with a cloth and plate, 
 and let it stand three days ; then put to them 
 cloves and a quarter of an ounce of mace 
 beaten fine, one ounce of garlic or shallot, 
 two of mustard-seed bruised, and one nut- 
 meg sliced. JIake a quart of vinegar tail- 
 ing hot, and pour it over the ingredients; 
 cover the jar, and in three or four days close 
 it with a bung, and tie leather over it. It 
 will be fit for use in a week, and is an im- 
 provement to most sauces, ;md particularly 
 to fish sauce. 
 
 LEMON POSSET. Squeeze the jnice 
 of two lemons into a China bowl, or small 
 deep dish, that will hold a quart; sweeten 
 it like sirup, add a little brandy ; boil one 
 pint of cream with a bit of orange-peel ; 
 take out the peel ; when cold, put the cream 
 into a teapot, pour it to the sirup, holding 
 it high. Make it the day before it is want- 
 ed. 
 
 LEMON PUDDING. See Pudding. 
 
 LEMON RINDS MARMALADE. 
 
 Having squeezed tlie juice from your lemons, 
 cut out all tlie white part, and put the rinds 
 into boiling water: as soon as they begin to 
 soften, take them from the fire, and throw 
 them into cold water ; then lay them on a 
 sieve to drain, and make diem into marma- 
 lade, in the same manner as apricots. Or- 
 ange rinds are done this way. 
 
 LEMON SPONGE. Boil half an ounce 
 of isinglass in a pint of water till dissolved; 
 strain it, and the following day add the 
 juice of two lemons, and the grated peel of 
 one; rub through a hair sieve, into the isin- 
 glass a uood quantity of rasplxrry jam, that 
 has stood Ix'fore the fire some time, and 
 whisk it all together till like a sponge; put 
 it into an earthen mould, set it in a cold 
 I lace lor some hours, and turn it out. Any 
 other sort of preserve may be used, and if 
 made with only orange or lemon-juice, 
 sweeten it with sugar, or make it with 
 orange jelly which may have been left the 
 day before. 
 
 LEMON SYLLABUBS. Take a pint 
 
 of cream, a pint of white wine, the peel of 
 two lemons grated, and the juice; sugar ac- 
 cording to taste ; let it stand some time ; 
 mill or whip it, lay the froth on a sieve; put 
 the remainder into glasses, and lay on the 
 froth. They should IK; made the day before 
 they are wanted. If you should wish them 
 to taste ver\ stront; of the lemon, you must 
 make use of the juice of six lemons, and 
 nearly a pound of sugar; they will keep 
 four or five days. 
 
 LKMONS, SIRUP OF. Put a pint of 
 fresh lemon-juice to a pound and three- 
 quarters of lump sugar; dissolve it by a 
 gentle heat ; skim it till the surface is quite 
 clear; add an ounce of thin-rut lemon-]>eel; 
 let them simmer (very gently) together for a 
 feu minutes, and run it through a flannel. 
 When cold, Ixitilc and cork it closely, and 
 keep it in a cool place. Or, Dissolve a 
 quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, 
 i. e. crystallized lemon acid, in a pint of 
 clarified sirup; flavor it with tlie peel, or 
 dissolve the acid in equal parts of simple 
 sirup, and sirup of lemon-peel. 
 
 LEMON WATER. Put two slices of 
 thinly pared lemon into a teapot, a little bit 
 of the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large 
 spoonful of capillaire ; pour in a pint of boil- 
 ing water, and stop it close for two hours. 
 
 LEMON CONSERVE, WHITE. Boil 
 a pound of tlie finest sugar, take it off the 
 fire, and squeeze into it the juice of one 
 lemon at different times, stirring continually;
 
 LOB 
 
 111 
 
 LOB 
 
 it will make the sugar as white ad milk if 
 properly done; take care not to drop any 
 of the seeds into it ; work it well together, 
 and when it is of an equal substance (which 
 prove in the same manner as any other jelly), 
 pour it into a mould. Lemon conserve Is 
 made in the same manner, only that the .su- 
 gar must he boiled to a greater height than 
 lor white lemon conserve. 
 
 LOBSTER. Buy these alive; the lob- 
 ster merchant* sometimes keep them till 
 they are starved, before they lil them; 
 they are then watery, have not half their 
 flavor, and like otlier persons that die of a 
 consumption, have lost the calf of their legs. 
 Choose those that (;is an old co.,k says, are 
 "heavy and lively," and) aie full of mo- 
 tion, which is the index of their Ireslmr-s. 
 
 Those ofihe middle size are the best. .\c\- 
 
 er take thrrn when the shell is inciiisted, 
 
 which is a -i^n they .ire old. The male 
 
 lerred to eat, and the female 
 
 count of the eggs) to make sauce of. 
 
 distinguished In havinga 
 
 i lull than the male, and less claws. 
 
 i a |K)t, uiih water salted in projxir- 
 tion of a lable-|)ixinfiil of salt to a quart of 
 water; \ifcen tlie water U.il-. |>nt it in, and 
 keep it boiling bri.-kly fr<nn half an hour to 
 an hour, according to its .-i/.e; wijx- all die 
 scum oil" it, and nib tin- shell with a very 
 little Uittcr or sweet oil; break off die 
 great claws, crack them carefully in each 
 joint, so that they may not l>e shattered, 
 and yet come to pieces easily ; cut tlie till 
 doun die middle, and .-end up the body 
 whole. 
 
 I.OP.STKIIS, to chootf. Tlie heaviest 
 are considered the best. \Vhcn alive, if they 
 an- quite fresh, the claws will have a strung 
 motion when yon put \onr linger on ti, 
 and press them. Wln-n yon buy them 
 Ixiilni, hv whether their l.iil- are -ii:i anil 
 pull up with a spring, otherwise that part 
 will IK- flabby. The cock-lobster may lie 
 .ii-ii,i-.i|.!i,-o from tin- In ii In the nairow 
 ,.. ni of tlie tul, and the r.io up|ici niosl 
 fins wiiliin it :,M- -lill'anil hard; lint th..-r 
 of tin ft, and the tail broader. 
 
 Tile male, though gcncralb lh<- smallest, has 
 tlie highest (la\ ir, the tl.-sli is firmer, ami 
 lor uiien b-iilcd is a dcejier r.-d. They 
 come m aljuiii A|)i il, and i.iin in season 
 till tin- oyster* return. M.-n 
 preferred for sauces, on account of their 
 coral. 
 
 |rC? & I'Obstfri are told in Button, al- 
 ready boiled, and are always freth and 
 good. 
 
 I.OIISTKK A I.A r.KAISK. I'onnd 
 tin- meal of n laige lolistcr very line with 
 
 two ounces of butter, and season it with 
 grated nutmeg, salt, and white pepper; add 
 a little grated bread, lieat up two eggs, re- 
 serve |>art to put over tlie meat, and with 
 the rest make it up into the form of a lob- 
 ster. Pound the sjiawn and red part, and 
 spread it over it; bake it a quarter of an 
 hour, and just before serving, lay over it die 
 tail and Ixxly shell, with the small claws put 
 underneath to resemble a lobster. 
 
 LOBSTERS OR CRABS, BUTTKRKU. 
 Pick all the meat from tlie bodies of either, 
 mince it small, put it into a saucepan with 
 two or three table-spoonfuls of white wine, 
 one of lemon-pickle, and three or four of 
 rich gravy, a bit of butter, some silt, pep- 
 per, and grated nutmeg; thicken it with 
 tlie yolks of two ei^s leal up, and when 
 quite hot, put it into the lar^e shells,; gar- 
 nish them with an edging of bread toasted. 
 
 LOBSTER FRICASSEE. Break tlie 
 stalls, and take out die meat carefully, cut 
 it and the red part, or coral, into pieces, 
 adding the spawn; thicken with flour and 
 butter some white .-lock, with which the 
 shells have been boiled; season it with 
 white pepper, mace, and salt, put in the 
 lob.-tcr and heat it tip; just Ix-fore serving, 
 add a little lemon-juice, or lemon pickle. 
 Tlie stock may be made with the shells, only 
 boiled in a pint of water, with some white 
 pepper, .-all. and a little mace, thickened 
 with cream, flour, and butter. 
 
 LOBSTER KETCHUP. Choose a 
 
 ii is lull of sfKiwn, and weighing 
 as in .11 U as |*i.-sililc three pounds; pick out 
 all (lie meat, and pound the red |>art or co- 
 ral in a marble mortar; when completely 
 brin.-i il, .i>!<! ihe meal ; |Hiiind. and moisten 
 it with a little slierry wine, mix with it a 
 tea-s|XHiiifnl of cayenne, add the rest of the 
 Uitlle of sherry, and mix it thoroughly; put 
 il into two uide-in .iiiiu ,! littles, ami on 
 (he top put a -mall talile--|Hiulid of' whole 
 |-p|>er, cork the Ixdtlcs tightly, and tie 
 them over with leather. It will kc.rp good 
 a Iwelxu-month, and exactly resembles fresh 
 
 ;. Four table-tpoonfbli heated 
 in melted butter arc nulliciunt for a large 
 
 -.ince-tn:cen. 
 
 LOBSTKIl I'ATTir.S. (1) Pick the 
 meat and nil U-rries i,m of a li.U-ter, mince 
 them finely, add grated bread, < hop|xjd pars- 
 ley, and butter; reason with grated nutmeg, 
 white |K-p|-r, and salt; add a little white 
 stock, cream, and a lal>le-s|MH>iifnl of white 
 wine, with a lew chop|-d oy.-lers; heat it 
 all together. Line the patt\-p.uis with |HlfT 
 paste; put into each a bit of crumb of bread, 
 about an inch stjuare, wet tlie edge of the
 
 LOB 
 
 112 
 
 MAC 
 
 paste, and cover it with another bit; with 
 the paste-cutter mark it all round the rim, 
 and pare off the paste round the edge of the 
 patty-pan. When baked, take off the top, 
 and with a knife take out the bread and a 
 little of the inside paste, put in the prcjKir- 
 ed lobster, lay on the top paste, and serve 
 them in a napkin. Another way to pre- 
 pare the paste. Roll it out nearly half an 
 inch thick, and cut it into rounds with a 
 tin cutter, and, with one or two sizes less, 
 mark it in the middle about half through. 
 When they are baked, carefully cut out die 
 inner top of the paste, and scoop out the in- 
 side, so as to make room for the mince, which 
 put in, and place on the top. 
 
 LOBSTER PATTIES. (2) Prepare the 
 patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen 
 lobster already boiled ; pick the meat from 
 the tail and claws, and chop it fine ; put it 
 into a stewpan, with a little of the inside 
 spawn pounded in a mortar till quite smooth, 
 an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, 
 and half a gill of veal consomme, cayenne 
 pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonful of essence 
 faBcfeovy, the same of lemon-juice, and a 
 table-spoonful of flour and water: stew it 
 five minutes. 
 
 LOBSTER PIE. (1) Boil the lobsters, 
 and cut the meat of the tail into four bits ; take 
 out the meat from the claws and bodies, 
 pound it in a mortar, add the soft part of 
 one lobster, and season with pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg, add three table-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar; melt half a pound of butter, and 
 mix it with the pounded meat and the crumb 
 of a slice of grated bread. Put puff paste 
 round the edge and side of the dish ; put in 
 the tail of the lobster, then a layer of oys- 
 ters with their liquor, and next the pounded 
 meat ; cover it with a puff paste, and bake 
 it till the paste be done. Before serving, 
 pour in some rich gravy, made of a little 
 weak stock in which the lobster shells have 
 been boiled, with an onion, |>epper, and 
 salt, and which has been strained and thick- 
 ened with a bit of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 LOBSTER PIE. (2) Take out, as 
 whole as possible, the meat from the tail 
 and claws of two or three boiled lobsters ; 
 cut them into slices, and season them with 
 nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Make a force- 
 meat of the soft part of the bodies, together 
 with grated bread, some parsley, ..and one 
 anchovy minced, grated lemon-peel, mace, 
 salt, and pep|>er, tle yolks of two hard- 
 boiled eggs bruised, Bad a bit of butter; mix 
 it all together with the well-l>eaten yolk of 
 an egg, and make it up into Miiall balls. 
 Put the lobster into the pie-dish, and cover 
 it with the forcemeat ball.", ami hard-boiled 
 
 yolks of eggs; add more than lialf a pint of 
 rich white stock, a glass of white wine, and 
 a table-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar. 
 Cover it with puff paste, and bake it only 
 till the paste be done. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE. Choose a fine 
 spawny hen lol>ster ; 1* sure it ig fresh, pick 
 out the spawn and the red coral into a mor- 
 tar, add to it half an ounce of butter, pound 
 it quite smooth, and rub it through a hair- 
 sieve with the bark of a wooden spoon; cut 
 the meat of the lobster into small squares, or 
 'pull it to pieces with a fork ; put the pound- 
 ed spawn into as much melted buttec as you 
 think will do, and stir it together till it is 
 thoroughly mixed ; now put to it the meat 
 of the lobster, and warm it on the fire; take 
 care it does not boil, which will spoil its 
 complexion, and its brilliant red color will 
 immediately fade. The above is a very easy 
 and excellent manner of making this sauce. 
 Some use strong beef or veal gravy instead 
 of melted butter, adding anchovy, cayenne, 
 ketchup, cavice, lemon-juice, or pickle, or 
 wine, &c. 
 
 LUNCHEON FOR AN INVALID. 
 
 Put bread crumbs and red currant, or any other 
 jelly, alternately into a tumbler, and when 
 nearly half full, till it up with milk. 
 
 H. 
 
 MACARONI, TO MAKE. Beat four 
 eggs for eight or ten minutes, strain them, 
 and stir in flour till stiff enough to work into 
 a paste upon a marble, or stone slab ; add 
 flour till it be a stiff paste, and work it well ; 
 cut off a small bit at a time, roll it out as 
 thin as paper, and cut it with a paste-cut- 
 ter or knife into very narrow strips ; twist, 
 and lay them upon a clean cloth, in a dry, 
 warm place; in a few hours it will be per- 
 fectly hard; put it into a box, with white 
 paper under and over it. It may be cut in- 
 to small stars, or circles, to be used for soup, 
 and does not require so much tailing as the 
 Italian Macaroni. 
 
 MACARONI. The usual mode of dress- 
 ing it in England is by adding a white 
 sauce, and Parmesan or Cheshire cheeso, 
 and burning it ; but this makes a dish which 
 is proverbially unwholesome: 'tis bad quali- 
 ties arise from t'ie oiled and burnt did M-. 
 and the half-dressed flour and butter put into 
 the white sauce. Macaroni plain boiled, 
 and some rich stock or poitable soup added 
 to it quite hot, will be found a delicious dish 
 and \ery wholesome. Or, boil macaroni aa 
 ' directed in the receipt for the pudding, and
 
 MAC 
 
 113 
 
 MAC 
 
 serve it quite hot in a deep tureen, and let 
 each guest add grated Parmesan and cold 
 butter, or oiled butter served hot, and it is 
 excellent ; this ia the most common Italian 
 mode of dressing it. Macaroni with cream, 
 sugar, and cinnamon, or a little varicelli 
 added to the cream, makes a very nice sweet 
 dish. See Macaroni Pudding for the 
 Boiling of it. 
 
 MACARONI DRESSED SWEET. 
 
 Boil two ounces of macaroni in a pint of 
 milk, \vitJi a bit of lemon-peel, and a good 
 bit of cinnamon, till the pipes are swelled to 
 their utmost size without breaking. Lay 
 them on a custard-dish, and pour a custard 
 over them hot. Serve cold. 
 
 MACARONI GRATIN. Lay fried 
 bread pretty closely round a dish, boil your 
 macaroni in tin- usual way, and pour it into 
 the dish ; smooth it all over, and strew bread- 
 crumbs on it, tlten a pretty thick layer of 
 grated Parmesan cheese; drop a little melt- 
 ed butter on it, and color it with a saJaman- 
 
 MACAROM NAPOLITAINE. Boil 
 
 two pounds of macaroni for half an hour, in 
 suit anil water; thru put it into a cullender 
 to drain. Take three-quarters of a pound 
 of cheese grated; put a layer of macaroni, 
 in a deep dish or tureen, and on it a layer 
 of macaroni, the cheese, and so on, alter- 
 nately, till both are used up, making the 
 cheese the top; pour over it some gravy, 
 melt lull' a pound of fresh butter, and put on 
 the whole. Serve it very hot. 
 
 MACARONI TO SERVE. (1) Sim- 
 mer it in a little stock, \\iili pounded mace 
 and salt. When qai i- M-.ider, take it out 
 of the liquor, lay it in a ili.-li, grate over it a 
 good deal of cheese, then over that put bread 
 grated very (inc. Warm some butter with- 
 out oiling, and pour it from a boat through 
 a little earthen cullender all o\er tlie crums, 
 then put the ilisli in a Dutch oven to roast 
 he cheese, and brown tin- hivad of a fine 
 color. The bread should be in separate 
 crums, and look light. 
 
 M V i ' \ K< ).\ I TO SERVE. (2) Wash 
 
 it well, and simmer it in half milk, and 
 half of veal or mutton stock, till tile 
 macaroni is tender; then take a spoonful 
 of tin' liquor, put ID it the volk oi 
 beaten in a >-|HM>nful of cream; just maki- it 
 hot to thicken, Iwt do rtot let it Ixiil; pour 
 it over tlir macaroni, and then grate fine old 
 I over it and add bits of butter; 
 brown it nicelv with the salamander. 
 
 M \r.YKO.\l STEWED. H.ilaquar- 
 10* 
 
 ter of a pound of macaroni in beef stock, till 
 nearly done; then strain it, and add a gill 
 of cream, two ounces of butter, a table spoon- 
 ful of the essence of ham, three ounces of 
 grated Parmesan cheese, and a little cayenne 
 pepper and salt ; mix them over a fire for 
 five minutes, then put it on a dish, strew 
 grated Pai mesan cheese over it, smooth it 
 over widi a knife, and color it with a very 
 hot salamander. 
 
 , MACARONI TIMBALE. Take some 
 puff paste, roll it thin, and cut it into narrow 
 bands; twist each into a kind of cord, 
 which place round the ins ides of buttered 
 moulds, snail fashion; fill each mould with 
 macaroni, cover the tops with grated bread, 
 and Parmesan cheese (equal quantities of 
 each) ; put the Timbales into a warm oven, 
 and bake diem three-quarters of an hour ; 
 then turn them 91 a dish, and serve. 
 
 MACAROONS. Take a pound of sweet 
 almonds blanched, and nicely pounded, add a 
 little rose-water to pi-event their oiling ; add 
 a pound of sifted sugar, then whisk the whites 
 of ten eggs to a solid froth, and add to 
 the above; beat all togedier for some time. 
 Have ready wafer paper on tin plates, drop 
 the mixture over it separately, the size of a 
 shilling, or smaller; sift over them a little 
 sugar, and bake them. 
 
 MACAROONS, SWEET. Blanch a 
 pound of sweet almonds, throw them into 
 cold water for a few minutes, lay them in a 
 napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty- 
 four hours ; at t lie end of that time, pound 
 them, a handful at a time, adding occasion- 
 ally some white of egg, till the whole is re- 
 duced to a fine paste; then take two pounds 
 of tlie best lump sugar, pound and sift it, 
 then put it to the almonds, with the grated 
 rinds of two lemons; beat these ingredients 
 together in tlie mortar, adding one at a time, 
 as many eggs as you find necessary to moist- 
 en the paste, which should lie thin, Ixit not 
 too much so, as in that case it would run; 
 your |>aste licing ready, take out a little in a 
 s|NX)ii,and l.u the macaroons on sheets of 
 white pa|r eilltcr round or oval, as you 
 please ; lay them at least an inch apart, be- 
 cause t In A .-pread in baking, and if (Hit near- 
 er would touch. Tlie whole of your paste 
 being used, place tlie sheets of paper on 
 tins in a moderate oven for three-quarters of 
 an hour. ., 
 
 This kind of cake requires great care and 
 attention; it will be well therefore to take 
 notice of the following rules: 1. To mind 
 that the almonds are |>ciTectly dry Ulbre 
 you begin to pound them. 2. Take great 
 care ill, it not a particle of the yolk is mixed 
 with the while of egg, which would entirely
 
 MAC 
 
 114 
 
 MAI 
 
 spoil the color of die macaroons, and prevent 
 their rising in the oven ; to avoid this, open 
 each separately, and if perfectly fresh, divide 
 the yolk and white with great care. 3. The 
 oven must be no more than moderately heat- 
 ed, nothing being more liable to burn than 
 almonds and sugar; by the least negligence 
 in tliis res|x>ct, the surface would be burned, 
 whilst the inside would remain unl>aked. 
 The best method to obviate any mischief of 
 this sort: put two or three macaroons into 
 the even to try it ; leave them in tlie usual 
 time; and if, when you take them out, they 
 are of a clear yellow, the oven is properly 
 heated, and the whole of the macaroons may 
 then be put in. 
 
 MACKEREL, TO CHOOSE. Their 
 gills should be of a fine red, their eyes full, 
 and the whole fish stiff and bright; if the 
 gills are of a faint color, the fish limber and 
 wrinkled, they are not fresh. 
 
 MACKEREL BAKED. Cut off their 
 heads, open them, and take out the roes and 
 clean them thoroughly ; rub them on the in- 
 side with a little pepper and salt, put the 
 roes in again, season them (with a mixture 
 of powdered allspice, black pepper, and 
 salt, well nibbed together), and lay them 
 close in a baking-pan, cover them with equal 
 quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie 
 diem down with strong white paper doubled, 
 and hake them for an hour in a slow oven. 
 They will keep for a fortnight. 
 
 MACKEREL BOILED. This fish 
 loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea, and 
 the fresher it is the better. Wash and clean 
 them thoroughly (tlie fishmongers seldom do 
 this sufficiently), put them into cold water 
 with a handful of salt in it; let them rather 
 simmer than boil; a small mackerel will be 
 done enough in about a quarter of an hour; 
 when the eye starts and the tail splits, they 
 are done; do not let them stand in the wa- 
 ter a moment after; they are so delicate 
 that the heat of tlie water will break them. 
 
 MACKEREL BROILED. Clean a fine 
 large mackerel, wipe it on a dry cloth, and 
 cut a long slit down tlie back ; lay it on a 
 clean gridiron, over a very clear, slow fire; 
 when it is done on one side, turn it; be 
 careful that it does not burn; send it up 
 with fennel sauce; mix well together a 
 little finely minced fennel and parsley, sea- 
 soned with a little |x-pper and salt, a bit of 
 froh 1 Hitter, and when the mackerel are 
 reads l">r the table, put some of this into 
 each fi.-li. 
 
 MACKEREL, THE GERMAN WAY. 
 
 Split tin-in down tlie back, and season them 
 
 with pepper and salt ; broil them, and serve 
 with tlie following sauce; pick and wash 
 some fennel, | sirs ley, mint, thyme, and green 
 onions ; but use only a small quantity of each. 
 Boil them tender in a little veal stock ; then 
 chop them up, and add to them some fresh 
 butter, the liquor they were boiled in, some 
 grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, a 
 little cayenne |>cp|>er, and salt. Ix?t it boil, 
 thicken it with Hour, and serve in a sauce 
 boat. 
 
 MADE DISHES. Be careful to trim 
 off all the skin, gristle, &c. that will not be 
 eaten ; and sh;i])e handsomely, and of even 
 thickness, the, various articles which compose 
 your made dishes: this is sadly neglected by 
 common cooks. Only stew them till they 
 are just tender, and do not stew them to 
 rags; therefore, what you prepare tlie day 
 before it is to be eaten, do not dress quite 
 enough the first day. We have given re- 
 ceipts for the most easy and simple way to 
 make HASHES, &c. Those who are well 
 skilled in culinary aits can dress up things 
 in this way, so as to be as agreeable as they 
 were the first time they were cooked. 
 
 MADELAINES. Take nine ounces of 
 powder-sugar, eight of flour, the yolks of 
 four and six whole eggs, two spoonfuls of 
 brandy, and a grain of salt ; put these into 
 a saucepan, stirring continually, until the 
 paste thickens; after which, stir only one 
 minute; clarify ten ounces of good fresh but- 
 ter, with which, butter about two and thirty 
 madelaine moulds, pour the remainder of tlie 
 butter into your preparation; set it on a 
 gentle stove, stir till it begins to become li- 
 quid, take it off before it has time to get too 
 hot, put a little of this into each mould, and 
 bake them in a moderate oven. 
 
 M A D E L A I N E S IN SURPRISE. 
 
 Make them in the usual way; when cold, 
 cut a thin slice from the bottom, take out 
 nearly all the inside; pound four ounces 
 of blanched lillxTts, mix them with eight 
 spoonfuls of apricot marmalade, which 
 mixture put into the madclaincs, and place 
 the slice taken from the bottom, and serve 
 diem. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL, COLD. Put a 
 
 quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan, 
 with some parsley and shallots, minced small, 
 salt, whole pepper, and lemon-juice; mix 
 the whole together with a wooden spoon. 
 Pour the Maitrt d' 'Hotel either over, un- 
 der, or into whatever meat or fish you in- 
 tend to serve. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL MAIGRE. Put 
 
 into some nicely melted butter a little chop-
 
 MAT 
 
 115 
 
 MIL 
 
 ped parsley, salt, and lemon-juice; one or 
 two minced shallots may be added, and heat 
 it all together. 
 
 MARCHPANE ROYAL. Take a 
 pound of sweet almonds, blanch and throw 
 them into cold water, drain and pound them, 
 moistening with orange-flower and plain 
 water, but take care not to put too much at 
 once. Hie almonds being reduced to a 
 
 'i them into a preserving pan with 
 lialf a |v>nnd of powder sugar, set the pan 
 on u moderate fire to dry the paste, which 
 will be Mitiiciently so if, when you touch it, 
 it no longer sticks to your finger, then take 
 it out and place it on a plate or wafer paper, 
 previously sprinkled with sugar: as soon as 
 it i.- cold cut it in pieces, which roll in vour 
 hand to tin- ,-iw of your little finger; form 
 them into rin^s, and lay them on iron grat- 
 
 < and put them into a brisk oven 
 t<i color. The above paste may also be em- 
 ployed a-s follows: roll it out and cut it in 
 half, spread over one piece apricot marma- 
 lade, or any other preserve you please, cover 
 it with tlie other piece, cut it into lozenges, 
 . according to your fancy, lay 
 them mi tin- sjr.itirii; as above, glaze and co- 
 lor them i:i a quick oven. 
 
 MMMORVM, SWEET, TO PRE- 
 SERVE. Beat up very well the white of 
 an egg, then lieat very fine and sift some 
 doiiljlorefined sugar; take some marjoram 
 and rub it on a glass that is quite clean, and 
 lay it in tin- form of the glass; so do it with 
 the egg, thru sear it with the sugar on it, and 
 lav it on paper to dry. 
 
 MARM \L\DE. Marmalade may be 
 com|n>seii i if almost any fruit*; the best, 
 however, tor thispurpoee are, apricots, peach- 
 es, oraiiL''--. quince.-, e^-plning, apple*, &c. 
 They are usually madi- l>y lioiling tile fruit 
 and sugar together to :i kind of pulp, stir- 
 ring them constantly whilst on the lire; it is 
 kept in jxits, which inns! not be covered till 
 d.ide is quite cold. The propor- 
 half a pound to each |x.imd 
 of fruit. 
 
 |CP f'te Names of Article*, of which 
 it is made. 
 
 <>\V |{)).\ES. Chop the bones 
 
 i- to stand steady, then wash 
 
 tin-in ( li-an, saw tliem in halves, cover the 
 
 toji with a diHired cloth: Ixiil tliem, and serve 
 
 with dry toa-t. 
 
 M \Ti:i.OTE MEAT. Take beef, veal, 
 mutton. :ind |n>rk, a large lice of each, and 
 
 a small mu- of lei; of lamb; cut them in small 
 piece*, which put into a saucepan with equal 
 quantities of stock and champaign, salt and 
 
 spices, cover them very close, and set them 
 on hot ashes for six hours, then serve it. 
 
 MEAD. (1) To every gallon of water 
 put four pounds of honey, boil it an hour. 
 Then put it into a tub with some \ea.-t on a 
 toast ; cover it over. If it ferments well af- 
 ter three or four days, draw it off" clear, and 
 put it into a cask, with one lemon sliced to 
 every gallon ; add a bottle of brandy to eve- 
 ry ten gallons. The rind of Seville oranges, 
 cut very thin, suspended in the barrel, is a 
 great improvement to the flavor. It is best 
 to wash the cask round with part of the 
 brandy, before the liquor is put in. 
 
 MEAD. (2) One part of honey is dissolv- 
 ed in three parts of water, and boiled over a 
 moderate fire till it is reduced to two-thirds 
 of the quantity. It is then skimmed, and 
 pit into a barrel, which must be quite full; 
 it is allowed to subside for three or four 
 days, and then drawn off" for use. To make 
 it from the combs from which honey has been 
 drained, they are to be beaten in warm wa- 
 ter, and after the liquor lias sulisided, it is 
 to be strained. The cottagers in Scotland 
 make an excellent beer by adding a little 
 yeast to the strained liquor, and allowing it 
 to ferment, for a few days, in a cask, and 
 then bottling it. 
 
 MEAT CAKES. Take whatever meat, 
 game, or (xniltry, you may chance to have, 
 (it !s the better for being under-done) ; mince 
 it fine, adding a little fat bacon or ham, or 
 anchovy; season with a little pepper and 
 salt ; mix the whole well together, and make 
 it into small cakes, about three inches in 
 length, an inch and a half in width, and half 
 an inch thick ; fry them of a light brown, 
 and serve thr-m with good gravy; or put it 
 into a mould, ami boil or Like it. 
 
 MEAT, TO KEEP HOT. If your 
 !.'.- u i- o M beftn ;."ii are ready to serve, 
 take it iij), sol tlic di.-h over a pan of boiling 
 water, put a dei^i cover over it, so as not to 
 touch the meat, and then put a cloth over 
 that. Thi.-i way will nut dry up the gravy. 
 
 MILK COFFEE FOR BREAKFAST. 
 See Coffee. 
 
 MII.K PUNCH. (1) Bear up two 
 
 e^'gs well, mix them in a quart of milk, su- 
 gar, nutmeg, and lemon-;**- 1 to your taste; 
 l>il it -.'entry, stirring it all tin: time till 
 nek i _'h ; lake it off tlie tin; a n 
 minutes, ihen add to it a full quarter of a 
 pint of nun. It must lie stirred all the time 
 tlie rum is pouring in, or it will not be good. 
 
 .MILK 1T.NCH. (2) Eight pounds of re-
 
 MIN 
 
 116 
 
 MOO 
 
 fined sugar are to be dissolved in the strain- 
 ed juice of three dozen lemons, and, when 
 quite settled, two gallons of brandy, and two 
 gallons and a half of cold water, are to be 
 added, and also the lemon-peel ; one gallon 
 of boiling milk being then poured over the 
 ingredients, they are to stand closely covered 
 for twenty-four hours ; when, being skimmed 
 and run through a very thick jelly-bag, it 
 may be quickly bottled, and will be fit for 
 immediate use ; but it improves by keeping. 
 
 MINCED COLLOPS. This is a fe- 
 vorite Scotch dish; few families are with- 
 out it: it keeps well, and is always ready to 
 make an extra dish. Take beef, and chop 
 and mince it very small; to which add some 
 salt and pepper. Put this, in its raw state, 
 into small jars, and pour on the top some clar- 
 ified butter. When intended for use, put the 
 clarified butter into a frying-pan, and slice 
 some onions into the pan, and fry them. Add 
 a little water to it, and then put in the minced 
 meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes 
 it will be fit to serve up. See Collops. 
 
 MINCE MEAT. Two pounds of beef 
 suet, picked and chopped fine; two pounds 
 of apple, pared, cored, and minced ; three 
 pounds of currants, washed and picked ; one 
 pound of raisins, stoned and chopped fine; 
 one pound of good moist sugar; half a pound 
 of citron, and one pound of candied lemon 
 and orange-peel, cut into thin slices; two 
 pounds of ready-dressed roast beef, free from 
 skin and gristle, and chopped fine ; two nut- 
 megs, graled; one ounce of salt, one of 
 ground ginger, lialf an ounce of coriander 
 seeds, half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce 
 of cloves, all ground fine ; the juice of six 
 lemons, and their rinds grated; half a pint 
 of brandy, and a pint of sweet wine. Mix 
 the suet, apples, currants, meat-plums, and 
 sweetmeats, well together in a large pan, 
 and strew in the spice by degrees; mix the 
 sugar, lemon-juice, wine, and brandy, and 
 ];our it to the other ingredients, and stir it 
 well together ; set it by in close-covered pans 
 in a cold place: when wanted, stir it up from 
 the bottom, and'add half a glass of brandy 
 to the quantity you require. N. B. The same 
 weight of tripe is frequently substituted for 
 the meat, and sometimes the yolks of eggs 
 boiled hard. Obs. The lean side of a but- 
 tock, thoroughly roasted, is genera Uy chosen 
 for mince meat. 
 
 MI.NUTEN FLEISH. Cut from off a 
 leg of veal some slices as thin as the blade 
 pf a knife, and about four inches long; sea- 
 son them with pepper and salt, lay them in- 
 to a deep dish, pour over them nearly half 
 a pint of while wine, let it stand for three 
 hours. Cover the liottom of u stcwpan with 
 
 butter, dredge each slice of the veaJ on both 
 sides with flour; add a little more wine, 
 and as much good white stock as will cover 
 it, and the juice of a lemon. Cover tlie pan 
 closely, and let it simmer five minutes, and 
 serve it instantly, otlierwise it will become 
 hard. 
 
 MOCK ARRACK. Dissolve two scru- 
 ples of flowers of benjamin in a quart of 
 good rum, and it will immediately impart 
 to it the inviting fragrance of "Vauxhall 
 nectar." 
 
 MOCK BRAWN. See Brawn. 
 
 MOCK CAPER SAUCE. 
 Caper. 
 
 See Sauce 
 
 MOCK GOOSE, OR LEG OF PORK 
 
 ROASTED WITHOUT THE SKIN. Parboil 
 
 it ; take oft" the skin, and then put it down 
 to roast; baste it with butter, and make a 
 savory powder of finely minced, or dried 
 and powdered sage, ground black pepper, 
 salt, and some bread-crumbs, rubbed togeth- 
 er through a colander ; you may add to this 
 a little very finely minced onion: sprinkle it 
 with this when it is almost roasted. Put 
 half a pint of made gravy into the dish, and 
 goose* stuffing under the knuckle skin; or 
 garnish the dish with balls of it fried or 
 boiled. 
 
 MOCK ICE. Of preserved strawber- 
 ries, raspberries, and red currant jelly, a 
 table-spoonful each ; rub it through a sieve, 
 with as much cream as will fill a shape; 
 dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of isin- 
 glass in half a pint of water; when almost 
 cold, mix it well with the cream, put it into 
 a shape, set it in a cool place, and turn it 
 out the following day. 
 
 MOCK, TURTLE. 
 Head. 
 
 See Soup Calf' 
 
 MOORFOWL, TO STEW. Truss 
 them, keeping on their heads, but draw the 
 legs within the body; mix well wmir -.alt 
 and pepper with flour and a piece c.t" liuiter, 
 and put a small bit into each bird; try llieni 
 all over of a nice brown in butter. J'.rowu 
 some butter and flour, and add to it some good 
 gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, and 
 two cloves poundpd; boil up the sauce, put 
 in the moorfowl, and let tin-in stew very 
 slowly till tender. A little before taking 
 them off the fire, add a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup. If the birds are old, 
 stew them for two hours; if young ones, 
 half that time. Cold roasted moorlm\l are 
 dressed exactly in the same way only cut 
 into joints, and stewed very gently nearly as
 
 MUS 
 
 117 
 
 M U S 
 
 long. Half an hour lx>fore son ing, a small 
 tea-cupful of Port wine should be added. 
 
 Ml TFINS. (1) Take one pint of milk 
 quite w:mn., and a quarter of a pint of thick 
 small-tx-cr yast ; siniin them into a pan, and 
 adil sntiicicnt flour to make it like a batter; 
 cover it over, and let it stand in a warm 
 place until it ha* risen ; then add a quarter 
 of a pint nf warm milk, and one ounce of 
 butter ruliljerl in some flour quite fine; mix 
 them well together : then add sufficient flour 
 to make it into dcin^li, cover it over, and 
 let it stand half an hour ; then work it up 
 again, and break it into small pieces: roll 
 them up quite round, and cover them over 
 for a quarter of an hour; then bake them. 
 
 MUFFINS. (2) Mix two pounds of 
 
 lour with a couple of e^'s, two ounces of 
 butter melted in a pint of milk, and four or 
 : .til!.- of year-l ; l>eat it thoroughly, 
 
 and set it to rise two or three hours. Bake 
 it on a hot hearth in li;it cakes, and turn 
 \lieii done, on one side. 
 
 M 1 i ! 1 \ > . (3) Take two quarts of 
 warm water, two skinfuls of yeast, three 
 pounds of ilonr ; Ix-at it well for half an 
 hour, and let it stand an hour or two; bake 
 them on an iron Iraking-stove (nib it well 
 over with mutton-suet as often as they are 
 laid on) ; as soon as they begin to color, 
 turn tlie m ; they will be sufficiently baked 
 when colored on both sides. 
 
 MI'I.1.\<: VTAWNY. Boil slowly in 
 two quaris of water one pound of split peas, 
 half an ounce of hotter, two onions sliced, a 
 little salt, cayime, and two bla.les of mace. 
 When t!< -nder, put in a large- 
 
 fowl, cul in joints and skinned, two quarts 
 of txiilin -lock, if the soup lx> re- 
 
 quireil \e:v rich ; twenty minutes before 
 sen in:.'. a<!d a large table spoonful of curry- 
 powder, and tlie same of ground rice. 
 
 or Mullagatawny Soup, see 
 
 Soups. 
 
 MM. !.;:!> WINE. Put into a pint of 
 Port wine two or three cloves and a bit of 
 
 .iniiamon: Irtiil it for a few moment*; take 
 out tin' spi'-e, -W..NH it with loaf sugar, 
 and grate in a little nutmeg. Serve with a 
 slice i :.:ui. the eru.it pared oil", 
 
 and cut into ohloim pieces. Tlie Port wine 
 u sometimes boiled with a third of its quan- 
 tity of water. 
 
 Ml SIIUOOMS, TO CHOOSE. The 
 
 mushrooms projxT to Ix? used in cookery 
 grow in the o|>cii justure land, for tlioee that 
 
 grow near or under trees, are poisonous. 
 The eatable mushrooms first appear very 
 small, and of a round form, on a little stalk. 
 They UTOW very rapidly, and the up|r part 
 and slalk are white. As they increase in 
 size, the under part gradually opens, and 
 shows a fringed fur of a very fine salmon co- 
 lor, which continues more or less till the 
 mushroom has gained some size, and then 
 turns to a dark brown. The.-c marks should 
 be attended to, and likewise whether the 
 skin can be easily parted from tlie edge 
 and middle, and whether they have a pleas- 
 ant smell. Those which are poisonous have 
 a yellow skin, and tlie under part has not the 
 clear flesh color of the real mushroom ; be- 
 sides which, they smell rank and disagreea- 
 ble, and the for is white or yellow. 
 
 MUSHROOM KETCHUP. If you 
 
 love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it 
 yourself, after the following directions, and 
 you will have a delicious relish for made- 
 dishes, ragouts, soups, sauces, or hashes. 
 
 Mushroom gravy approaches tlie nature 
 and flavor of meat gravy, more than any 
 table juice, and is the" superlative siilwtitute 
 for it: in meagre soups and extempore gra- 
 vies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet 
 contrived to agreeably awaken the palate, 
 and encourage the appetite. 
 
 A couple of quarts of double ketchup, 
 made according to the following receipt, 
 will save you some score pounds of meat, 
 lie-ides a vast deal of time and trouble; as it 
 will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce 
 as can be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. 
 
 I believe the following is the best way of 
 
 ting and preparing the essence of 
 
 mn-hroom-, so as to procure and present 
 
 their flavor liir a considerable length of lime. 
 
 Look out tin- mushrooms from tlie lieu'in- 
 nini; of Septcnilier. 
 
 Take care they are the right sort, and 
 fre-li gathered. Full-grown tla|)s are tone 
 preferred: put a layer of these at the bottom 
 of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle them 
 with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, 
 and some more salt on them ; and so on al- 
 ternately, s;(lt and mushrooms: let tin-in re- 
 main two or three hours, by which time tlie 
 salt will have penetrated the muslin 
 rendered them easy to break ; then |xiund 
 them in a mortar, or mash them well with 
 your hands, and let tlicm remain f!>r a coiipl,: 
 of dajs, not longer, stirring them rp, and 
 mashing them well each day ; then |x>nr them 
 .ne jar. and to each quart add an 
 ounce and a half of whole black |-pper, and 
 half an ounce of allspice; stop tin- jar very 
 close, and s< t it in a stewpan of Uiilins wa- 
 ter and keep it lx)ilin^' for two hours at least. 
 Take out tlie jar, and pour tlie juice clear
 
 MUS 
 
 118 
 
 MUT 
 
 from the settlings through a hair sieve (without 
 squeezing the mushrooms) into a clean stew- 
 pan; let it boil very gently for half an hour: 
 those who are for superlative ketchup, will 
 continue the boiling till the mushroom-juice 
 is reduced to half the quantity ; it may then 
 be called double cat-sup or dog-sup. 
 
 There are several advantages attending 
 tills concentration; it will keep much better, 
 and only half the quantity lie required; so 
 you can flavor sauce, &c. without thinning 
 it: neither is this an extravagant way of 
 making it, for merely the aqueous part is 
 evaporated ; skim it well, and pour it into a 
 clean dry jar, or jug; cover it close, and let 
 it stand in a cool place till next da\ ; then 
 pour it off as gently as |x>ssible (so as not to 
 disturb the settlings at the bottom of the 
 jug,) through a tamis, or thick flannel bag, 
 till it is perfectly clear; add a table-spoon- 
 fill of good brandy to each pint of ketchup, 
 and let it stand as before; a fresh sediment 
 will be deposited, from which the ketchup is 
 to be quietly poured off, and bottled in pints 
 or half pints (which have been washed with 
 brandy or spirit): it is best to keep it in 
 such quantities as are soon used. 
 
 Take especial care that it is closely cork- 
 ed, and sealed down, or dipped in bottle ce- 
 ment. 
 
 If kept in a cool, dry place, it may be 
 preserved for a long time ; but if it be badly 
 corked, and kept in a damp place, it will 
 soon spoil. 
 
 Examine it from time to time, by plac- ! 
 ing a strong light behind the neck of tin- 
 bottle, and if any pellicle appears alx>ut it, I 
 boil it up again with a few peppercorns. 
 
 MUSHROOMS TO PICKLE. Cut 
 
 off the stalks, and wash clean, in cold wa- 
 ter, some small button mushrooms ; nib them 
 with a bit of flannel, then throw them into 
 fresh water, and when perfectly clean, put 
 them into a saucepan with fresh cold water, 
 and let them boil eight or ten minutes; strain 
 off the water, lay them into the folds of a 
 cloth. Boil, in a quart of vinegar, a quarter 
 of an ounce of pepper, the same of allspice, 
 and two or three blades of mace, and a tea- 
 spoonful of salt ; put the mushrooms into a 
 jar, and when the vinegar is cold, pour it, 
 with the spices, over them. 
 
 MUSHROOMS TO STEW. Fora 
 good-sized dish, take a pint of white stock, 
 season it with salt, pepper, and a little lemon 
 pickle, thicken it with a bit of butter rolled 
 in flour; cleanse and peel the mushrooms, 
 sprinkle them with a very little salt, boil 
 them for three or four minutes, put them into 
 the gravy when it is hot, and stew them for 
 fifteen minutes. 
 
 MUSTARD. Mix (by degrees, by rub- 
 bing together in a mortar) the best floor of 
 mustard, with vinegar, white wine, or cold 
 water, in which scraped horseradish has 
 been boiled ; rub it well together for at least 
 ten minutes, till it is perfectly smooth; it 
 will keep in a stone jar closely stopped, fora 
 fortnight : onlv put as much into the mustard- 
 pot as will be used in a day or two. Obs. 
 Mustard is the best of all the stimulants that 
 are employed to give energy to the digestive 
 organs. Some opulent epicures mix it with 
 Sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled or fla- 
 vored vinegar, instead of horseradish water. 
 The French flavor their mustard with Cham- 
 ]>aigne and other wines, or with vinegar fla- 
 vored with capers, anchovies, tarragon, elder, 
 basil, burnet, garlic, eschalot, or celery, 
 wanning it with cayenne, or the various 
 spices; sweet, savory, fine herbs, truffles, 
 ketchup, &c. &c., and seem to consider 
 mustard merely as a vehicle of flavors. 
 
 MUSTARD IN A MIM'Tll. Mix 
 very gradually, and nib together in a mortar, 
 an ounce of flour of mustard, with three ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of milk (cream is better), half 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, and the same of sugar; 
 nib them well together till quite smooth. 
 Obs. Mustard made in this manner is riot 
 at all bitter, and is therefore instantly ready 
 for the table. 
 
 MUTTON. (1) The pipe that runs along 
 the bone of die inside of a chine of mutton 
 ought to be taken away ; and if it is to be 
 kept any length of time, the part close round 
 tlie tail should be rubbed with salt, previously 
 cutting out the kernel. 
 
 It is IK-SI for the butcher to take out the 
 kernel in the fat on the thick part of tlie leg, 
 as that is the part most likely to become 
 tainted. The chine and rib-bones should be 
 wiped every day ; and the bloody part of tlie 
 neck be cut off, in order to preserve it. The 
 brisket changes tirst in the breast; therefore, 
 if it is to IK- kepi, it is Ix-st, should the 
 weather be hot, to nib it with a little salt. 
 
 When intended tor roasting, it should hang 
 as Ion*,' as it will keep, tlie hind quarter 
 particularly ; but not so long as to become 
 tainted. 
 
 Mutton for boiling ought not to hang 
 long, as it will prevent its looking of a good 
 color. 
 
 The greatest care should be taken to pre- 
 serve, by paper, the fat of what is roasted. 
 
 MUTTON. (2) As beef requires a large, 
 sound fire, mutton must have a brisk and 
 sharp one. If you wish to have mutton 
 tender, it should be hung almost as long as 
 it will keep; and then good eight-tooth, t. e.
 
 MU T 
 
 119 
 
 MUT 
 
 fcur yean old mutton, is aa good eating as 
 
 venison. 
 
 The teg, haunch, and saddle will ! the 
 better tor being hung up in a cool airy place 
 for four or five days at least; in temperate 
 weather, a week ; in cold weather, ten days. 
 
 A Leg, of eight [XMinds, will take alx>ut 
 two hours: let it U; MB boated, and frothed. 
 
 A Chine or Saddle, ('. e. the two loins) 
 of ten or eleven pounds, two hours and a 
 half: it is the business of the butcher to lake 
 olf the .-kin and skoxvcr it on again, to defend 
 tin.- incut from extreme heat, and preserve its 
 succulence; if this is Baghdad, tie a sheet 
 of pajx-r oxer it (baste tlie strings you tie it 
 on with directly, or they will burn): about a 
 quarter of an hour before you think it will 
 lie done, take oft' tile skin or paper, that it 
 ,i pale brown color, then l>aste it and 
 flour it lightly to froth it. N. B. Desire 
 the butcher to cut oft' the fla|>s and the tail 
 and chump end, and trim away ever)' jwrt 
 that lias not indisputable pretensions to ! 
 eaten. This \\ ill reduce a saddle of eleven 
 pounds weight to alxnit six or seven |x>unds. 
 
 A SAotuoer, of seven pounds, an hour and 
 a half. 1'nt the spit in close t<j the shank- 
 bone, and mi 1 it along die blade-lx>ne. 
 N. B. The blade-lxnic is a favorite luncheon 
 or supper relish, scored, pep|x-red and salt- 
 ed, and broiled, or done in a Dutch oven. 
 
 A Loin, of mutton, from an hour and a 
 half to an hour and three-quarters. The 
 most elegant way of carving this, is to cut it 
 lengthwise, as yon do a saddle. N. B. Spit 
 il on a skewer or lark spit, and tie that on 
 the common spit, and do not spoil the meat 
 by running the spit through the prime part 
 of it. 
 
 A Neck, alxMit the sairx- time as a loin. 
 It inn-it ! carefully jointed, or it is xeix 
 difficult to cane. The m-ck and breast are, 
 i , -mall families, commonly roasted togvther ; 
 the cook will llini crack the Ixmrs across tin- 
 middle before the\ are (Hit down to roast : if 
 this is not donf carefully, they are very 
 troublesome to carve. Tell tin- cook, when 
 she take- il from the spit, to sc|>ar:ite them 
 More .-In- sends ih.-ni to talde. .\. B. The 
 lx>t way to spit this is to nm iron skewers 
 across it, and put the spit Itetwcen them. 
 
 A Breast, an hour and a quarter. 
 
 Ml TTO.N. I'.AKKD WITH POTA- 
 TOES. See Beef. 
 
 MI'TTO.X I'.ur.AST COLLARED. 
 Bone it and take out all the grilles, 
 make n . idi crumlw of bread, 
 
 chopped )Kir-!ry, ;\ little lemon thyme, au<l 
 ORB anchovy minced; season \\ith salt and 
 while | 1 1; i. . , rub llie mutton oxer xxith an 
 
 it witli tin- : 
 ri/ll it (irmly; tie it with tape, and put il on 
 
 in boiling water. Make a good gravy of 
 the bones, two onions, a bunch of parsley 
 and lemon thyme, pepper and salt; strain 
 and thicken it xvith a piece of Ixuter mixed 
 with flour. A little before serving, add a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar and txvo of mush- 
 room ketchup. Garnish with cut lemon or 
 pickles. 
 
 MUTTON, BREAST, ROASTED 
 WITH WINE. Skin and bone a breast of 
 mutton, then roll it up in a collar like a 
 hreu.-t of xeal. Roast it, and baste it with 
 half a pint of red \vine; when you have used 
 up all the wine, finish basting with butter. 
 Have a liltle good gravy in readiness, and 
 when the mutton is done, set it upright in a 
 dish, pour in the gravy, prepare sxxeet sauce 
 the same as for venison, and send it up to 
 table xx it lion t any garnish. 
 
 MUTTON BROTH. Cut a neck of 
 
 mutton into pieces, preserving a hands >nx.' 
 piece to be served up in the tureen; put all 
 into a stexxjian xx ith three quarts of cold beef 
 stock, or water, xvith a little oatmeal mixed 
 in it; some turnips, onions, leeks, celery cut 
 in pieces, and a small bunch of thyme and 
 parsley. When it boils, skim it clean, and 
 xx lien nearly done, takeout the piece you in- 
 tend to serve in the tureen, and let the other 
 pieces stexv till tender; then have ready tur- 
 nips cut into dice, some leeks, celery, half a 
 cabljage, somr parsley, all cut small, and 
 some marigolds; wash them, strain the li- 
 quor off the meat, skim it free, from the fat, 
 add it to the ingredients xvith tlie piece of 
 mutton intended for the tureen, adding a lit- 
 tle pearl barley. Season xvith salt, simmer 
 all together till done, and serxe xxith toasted 
 bread on a plate. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS. Cut the chop 
 off a loin or tlie best end of a neck of mutton, 
 pare off tlie tat, dip them into a beaten egg, 
 ami strexx oxer them grated bread, seasoned 
 xvith |X-|>|XT, salt, and some finely minced 
 (Kir-Icy ; fry them in a liltle butter, and lay 
 them u|xm the back of a sieve to drain be- 
 fore th;- lire. Thicken about half a pint of 
 gravy, add a lab|c-s|>oonfiil of ketchup, and 
 one of Port wine; put the graxy into the dish, 
 ami lay in tlio chops; garnish xvith fried 
 parsley or cut lemon. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS, BAKED. Cut a 
 
 nock of mutton into neat chops, so;ison them 
 xvith salt and |x-p|xr, Ixttler a dish, lay in 
 the cho| s and |x.ur oxer them a batter made 
 of a quart of milk, four eggs beaten up, four 
 iabli--.-|XHinfiils nf dour, and a liltle salt. An 
 hour xx ill bake them. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS MAI.NTENON.
 
 MUT 
 
 120 
 
 MUT 
 
 Cut a neck of mutton into chops ; beat them 
 flat with a rolling-pin. Bruise the yolk of 
 a hard-boiled egg, and mix with it chopped 
 sweet herbs, grated bread, nutmeg, salt, and 
 pepper. Cover the steaks witli It, and put 
 each into a piece of well-buttered paper; 
 broil them over a clear fire, turning them of- 
 ten. Serve them in die paper, 6r with a 
 browned gravy. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS. Cut into cut- 
 lets a pound and a half of the thick part of 
 a leg of mutton, and beat them; mix with 
 grated bread crumbs, some pepper, salt, and 
 finely chopped parsley, lemon thyme, and 
 sweet marjoram. Rub die cutlets with nielt- 
 cd butter, and cover them thickly with the 
 prepared bread; fry them for ten minutes in 
 butter, then put them into a saucepan with 
 some good gravy diickened with flour and 
 butter, and simmer diem for ten or fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 MUTTON FILLET, STEWED. Put 
 
 a fillet of mutton or a piece of beef, weigh- 
 ing about seven pounds, into a stewpan, with 
 a carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with two 
 or du-ee cloves, and a pint of water. Put 
 round the edge of the stewpan, a rim of 
 coarse paste, that the cover may be kept 
 very close, and let it stew gently, three hours 
 and a half; take out the meat, skim oft" the 
 fat, strain and thicken the gravy, have ready 
 some boiled carrots and turnips cut to fancy, 
 add them to the gravy, make all hot, and 
 serve with a garnish of sliced gherkins. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS BREADED AND 
 BROILED. Trim and season your cutlets 
 with pepper and salt, put them into some 
 melted butter, and when diey have imbibed 
 a sufficient quantity of it, take them out, and 
 cover them completely with bread crumbs; 
 give die cutlets a good shape, and broil them 
 over a clear fire ; take care not to do die cut- 
 lets too much, to burn the bread. 
 
 MUTTON GRAVY FOR VENISON 
 OR HARE. The best gravy for venison is 
 that made with the trimmings of the, joint: 
 if dlis is all used, and you have no undressed 
 venison, cut a scrag of mutton in pieces; 
 broil it a little brown; dien put it into a 
 clean stewpan, with a quart of boiling wa- 
 ter ; cover il close, and let it simmer gently 
 for an hour: now uncover die stewpan, and 
 let it reduce to diree-quarters of a pint ; pour 
 it through a hair-sieve ; take the fat off, and 
 send it up in a boat. It is only to be sea- 
 soned widi a little salt, that it may not over- 
 power die natural flavor of die meat. 
 
 MUTTON, TO HASH. Cut the meat 
 into thin slices, trim off all die sinews, skin, 
 
 gristle, &c. ; put in nothing l*it what is to 
 lie eaten, lay them on a plate, ready; pre- 
 pare your sauce to warm it in, put in die 
 meat, and let it simmer gently till it is thor- 
 oughly warm: do not let it boil, us that will 
 make die meat tough and hard, and it will 
 be a harsh, instead of a hash. Select for 
 your hash those parts of die joint diat are 
 least done. Hashing is a mode of cookery 
 by no means suited to delicate stomachs: 
 unless the meat, be considerably under-done 
 die first time, a second dressinu must spoil 
 it, tor what is done enough the first time, 
 must be done too much die second. 
 
 MUTTON HAM, TO CURE. Cut a 
 
 hind quarter of IM >d mutton into the sliaj>e of 
 a ham, pound one ounce of salt]>etre, with 
 one pound of coarse salt and a quarter of a 
 pound of brown sugar, rub die ham \\ ell with 
 this mixture, taking care to stutV the hole of 
 the shank well with salt and sugar, and let 
 it lie a fortnight, nibbing it well \\ ith the 
 pickle every two or three days ; then take 
 it out and press it with a weight for one 
 day; smoke it with saw-dust for ten or fif- 
 teen days, or hang it to dry in the kitchen. 
 If die ham is to be boiled soon after it has 
 lieen smoked, soak it one hour, and if it has 
 been smoked any length of time il will re- 
 quire to be soaked several hours. Put it on 
 in cold water, and boil it gently two hours. 
 It is eaten cold at breakfast, luncheon, or 
 supper. A mutton ham is sometimes cured 
 with the above quantity of salt and sugar, 
 with the addition of half an ounce of pepper, 
 a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and one nut- 
 meg. 
 
 MUTTON HAUNCH, LIKE VENI- 
 SON. Take a fat haunch of large fine 
 mutton, let it hang a week, then pound 
 one ounce of black, and one ounce of Jamai- 
 ca pepper, and rub them over the mutton, 
 pour a bottle of Port wine over it, and let it 
 remain in this five days, basting it frequent- 
 ly every day with the liquor, take it out and 
 hang it up four or five days more, or as long 
 as die weather favors its keeping; wipe it 
 three or four times a day with a clean cloth. 
 While it is roasting haste it with the liquor 
 it was steeped in, adding a little more Port 
 wine ; a quarter of an hour before taking it 
 from die fire, baste it well with butter, and 
 dredge flour over it to froth it up. Serve it 
 widi sauces as for venison. 
 
 MUTTON HAUNCH. It should 
 be kept as long as you can possibly keep it 
 sweet by the different modes ; and if neces- 
 sary, wash it with warm milk and water, 
 or vinegar, and when going to be dressed, be 
 careftil to wash it well, to prevent die out- 
 side from having a bad flavor from keeping ;
 
 MUT 
 
 121 
 
 MUT 
 
 before you put the haunch to the fire, fold it 
 in a paste of coarse flour, or strong pa|>er; 
 then set it a good distance from the tire, and 
 allow proportionable time for the paste; do 
 not take it off, till about thirty-five or forty 
 minutes before serving the inntton, and then 
 baste continually; bring the liauneh nearer 
 before taking oil' the paste, and tVntli it up 
 in the same manner as venison. For gravy, 
 take a pound and a half of loin of mutton, 
 and simmer it in a pint of water till reduced 
 to half, use no seasoning l>m salt: lirown it 
 with a little Ixirnt sii!*ar, and serve it up in 
 the dish; Inn there should lie a good deal of 
 gravy in tile meat, for thu<;h long at the fire, 
 the covering and distance \\ill pi-event its 
 roasting out. .Serve with currant-jelly sauce. 
 
 MUTTON LEG. (1) If your leg 
 of mutton is roasted, serve with onion or 
 currant-jelly sauce ; if it is boiled, serve with 
 ca|>er-saiice and vegetables, In roasting or 
 boiling, a quarter of an hour is usually alloxv- 
 ich |xiimd of me.il. 
 
 MI T TON LEG. (2) Cut off (he shank 
 !*>ne, and trim die knuckle, put it into luke- 
 warm water for ten minutes, wash it clean, 
 cover it xvith cold water, and let it simmer 
 very gently, and skim it carefully. A leg 
 of nine pounds \xill take two and a half or 
 three hours, if yon like it thoroughly done, 
 es|'ciall\ in very cold weather. 
 
 The tit-bits with an epicure are the 
 " knuckle," ti>e kernel, railed the "pope's 
 eye," and the " gentleman's" or " cramp 
 bone." 
 
 When mutton is very large, you may di- 
 vide it, and roast thf fillet, i. e. the laiire 
 end, and boil the knuckle end; von may 
 also cut some fine cutlets oft" the thick end 
 of the. !!{, and so have two or three good 
 hot dinners. 
 
 The liquor the mutton it boiled in, you 
 may convert into uo i soup in five minutes. 
 ' -arley bn .th. Thug managed, a 
 leg of mutton is a most economical joint. 
 
 MITTON LEG STUFFED. Make 
 
 a stuffing xvith a little Uvf-s.net chopped, 
 some parsley, thyme, marjoram, a little 
 grated lemon, miimc<r grated, pepper, salt, 
 
 and a few bread cnnnl*, mix all together 
 with the yolk of an e_ r i:. put this under the 
 skin in the thickol |>aii of a leu of million 
 under the Hap; then roast it, and serve it to 
 table- xvith some good ^raxy in the di.-lr 
 
 N I.K ; STI TrT.D xx MM 
 OTSTI.- ...it of beefaiet, 
 
 iled eggs, 
 
 with ihi< > an ,. tin me, 
 
 savory,. i fourteen, 
 
 all cut fine, some salt, pepper, grated nut- 
 meg, and crumbs of bread, mixed up with 
 raw eggs; put this forcemeat under the skin 
 in the thickest part of the leg of mutton, un- 
 der the flap, and at the knuckle. For sauoe, 
 s e oyster-liquor, a little red wine, an an- 
 chovy, and some more oysters stewed, and 
 served under the mutton. 
 
 MUTTON LOIN. Roast it; some 
 people think it cats much better if cut length- 
 ways like a saddle. It may also be used 
 for steaks, pies, or broth, only taking care 
 to cut off as much fat as possible. 
 
 MUTTON LOIN, STEWED. Bone 
 and skin the loin; stew it in a pint of 
 water, turning it frequently; when tlie li- 
 quor is half wasted, take out the loin and 
 strain it, and when cold take off the fat; 
 make a rich highly-seasoned gravy of the 
 bones; strain and mix it with the liquor the 
 loin was stewed in; add a tea-cupful of 
 Port wine, and some small mushrooms; 
 thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour; 
 put in the mutton, and heat it thoroughly; 
 garnish with pickles. 
 
 MUTTON NECK. (1) This joint is 
 [Kirticularly useful, as so many dislies may 
 Ix: made of it. The bone ought to be cut 
 short. 
 
 The best end of the neck may be boiled, 
 
 and served with turnips; or if" you think 
 
 proper, it may be roasted, or dressed in 
 
 steaks, or made into pies, or used for harrico. 
 
 ) You may stew the scrags in broth ; or in 
 
 a little wafer, with small onions, some pep- 
 
 [MTcorns, and a small quantity of rice, all 
 
 ; served together. 
 
 When you wish that a neck which is to 
 
 U- Uiiled should look particularly xvell, saw 
 
 doxxn the chine bone, strip the ribs half 
 
 I way down, and chop off the ends of the 
 
 | bones, about four inches. 
 
 To make the fat look particularly white, 
 i the skin should not be taken off till it is 
 i boiled. 
 
 The fat belonging to the neck or loin of 
 mutton, if chopped very fine, makes a most 
 excellent suet-pudding, or crust for a meat 
 pie. 
 
 MUTTON NECK. (2) Put four or 
 fixe pounds of the best end of a neck (that 
 has been kept a few days) into as much cold 
 j soft water as will cover it, and about two 
 inches over; let it simmer very slowly for 
 two hours: it will look most delicate if you 
 do not take off the skin till it has been boil- 
 ed. 
 
 MUTTON PASTY, TO IAT AS iiicz
 
 MUT 
 
 122 
 
 MUT 
 
 AS VENISON. Take a fat loin of mutton, 
 and let it hang for several days, then bone it. 
 Beat it well with a rolling pin; then rub 
 ten pounds of meat with a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar, and pour over it one glass of Port, 
 and one glass of vinegar. Let it lie for five 
 days and five nights ; after which, wash and 
 wipe the meat very dry, and season it highly 
 with Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and salt. 
 Lay it in your dish, and to ten pounds put 
 one pound of butter, spreading it over the 
 meat. Put a crust round the edge of the 
 dish, and cover with a thick crust, otherwise 
 it will be over-done before the meat is soak- 
 ed; it must be b:iked in a slow oven. 
 
 Put the bones in a pan in the oven, with 
 just sufficient water to cover them, and one 
 glass of Port, a small quantity of pepper and 
 salt; by this means you will have a little rich 
 gravy to add to the pasty when drawn. 
 
 Sugar gives a greater shortness to meat, 
 and a tetter flavor than salt, too great a 
 quantity of which hardens the meat. Sugar 
 is quite as great a preservative. 
 
 MUTTON POLPETTES. Take the 
 lean of any joint of cold roasted mutton, pare 
 off fhe skin, and mince the meat with a little 
 grated bacon and calf's udder ; season with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, a few mushrooms and 
 parsley, shred small; unite them together 
 with the yolks of tliree eggs, and make twelve 
 or fifteen balls of it, dip them in beaten egg, 
 and bread them twice. Flatten these balls 
 a little, and fry them in clarified butter; 
 when done, drain and place them on the 
 dish. Serve them with tomato sauce or 
 glaze. 
 
 MUTTON, ROLLED. Bone a shoulder 
 of mutton carefully, so as not to injure the 
 skin, cut all the meat from the skin, mince 
 it small, and season it highly with pepper, 
 nutmeg, and a clove, some parsley, lemon 
 thyme, sweet marjoram chopped, and a 
 pounded onion, all well mixed, together with 
 a well-beaten yolk of an egg; roll it up very 
 tightly in the skin, tie it round, and bake it 
 in an oven two or three hours, according to 
 the size of the mutton. Make a gravy of tle 
 bones and parings, season with an onion, 
 popper and salt, strain and thicken it with 
 flour and butter; add vinegar, mushroom 
 ketchup, soy, and lemon pickle, a table- 
 spoonful of each, and a tea-cupful of Port 
 wine; garnish with forcemeat balls, made 
 of grated bread, and part of the mince. 
 
 MUTTON, COLD SHOULDER BROIL- 
 ED. A cold shoulder of roast mutton having 
 only a little meat upon the blade bone, may 
 be scored, sprinkled with pepper and salt, 
 then broiled and served with caper sauce 
 
 poured over it, or melted butter, in -which 
 should be mixed of mushroom ketchup, lemon 
 pickle, and Harvey sauce, a table-spoonful 
 each. 
 
 MUTTON SHOULDER, BAKED. 
 
 Lard a shoulder of mutton with streaked 
 bacon, put it into an earthen stewpan pro- 
 portioned to the size of the joint of meat, 
 with two or tliree sliced onions, a parsnip 
 and carrot sliced, one clove of garlic, two 
 cloves, half a bay-leaf and some basil ; add 
 about a quarter of a pint of water or stock 
 (stock is the best), some salt and pepper; 
 put the meat into the sauce, and set it in an 
 oven. When the meat is done, strain the 
 sauce through a sieve, and skim it, squeezing 
 the vegetables so as to make a thickening for 
 your sauce: serve the sauce with the meat. 
 
 MUTTON SHOULDER, STEWED. 
 (1) Bone a shoulder of mutton with a 
 sharp knife, and fill the space with the fol- 
 lowing stuffing: grated bread, minced suet, 
 parsley, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bind 
 with the yolks of two eggs well beaten. 
 Sew or fasten it with small skewers; brown 
 it in a frying-pan with a bit of butter. Break 
 the bone, put it into a saucepan, with some 
 water, an onion, pepper, salt, and a bunch 
 of parsley; let it stew till the strength be 
 extracted ; strain, and thicken it with butter 
 rolled in flour; put it, with the mutton, and 
 a glass of Port wine, into the saucepan ; cover 
 it closely, and let it stew gently for two 
 I lours. Before serving, add two table-spoon- 
 fuls of mushroom ketchup. Garnish with 
 pickles. 
 
 MUTTON SHOULDER, STEW- 
 ED. (2) Bone and flatten a shoulder 
 of mutton, sprinkle over it pepper and 
 salt, roll it up tightly, bind it with tape, and 
 put it into a stewpan that will just hold it, 
 pour over it a well-seasoned gravy made with 
 the bones, cover the pan closely, and let it 
 stew till tender; before serving, take oft" lie 
 tape, thicken the gravy, and garnish with 
 cut pickles. 
 
 MUITON STEAKS, BROILED. Cut 
 
 some mutton steaks from the loin, about 
 half an inch thick, take off the skin, and part 
 of the fat. As soon as the gridiron is hot, 
 rub it with a little suet, lay on the steaks 
 (place the gridiron over the fire aslant), turn 
 the steaks frequently ; when they are done, 
 put them into a hot dish, rub them with 
 a little butter; slice a shallot very thin into 
 a s|joonful of water, and pour it on them ; 
 add a little ketchup ; garnish with scraped 
 horse-radish, and pickles, and send them up 
 hot to table.
 
 NOU 
 
 123 
 
 OAT 
 
 N. 
 
 NAPLES CURD. Put into a quart of 
 new milk a stick of cinnamon, boil it a few 
 mini:'' -, take out the cinnamon, and stir in 
 eight well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful 
 of white wine ; when it boils again, strain 
 it through a sieve ; beat the curd in a basin, 
 together with about half an ounce of butter, 
 two table-spoonfuls of orange-flower water, 
 and pounded sugar sufficient to sweeten it. 
 Put it into a mould fur two hours before it 
 is sent to table. White wine, sugar, and 
 cream, may be mixed together, and poured 
 round the curd ; or it may be served in a 
 sauce tureen. 
 
 NASTURTIUMS PICKLED. As soon 
 as the blossoms are off, gather the little 
 knobs; put them into cold water with some 
 salt; shift them once a day for three suc- 
 cessive days ; make a cold pickle of white 
 wine vinegar, a little white wine, shallot, 
 pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, cut in quar- 
 horse-radish ; and put your nastur- 
 tium buik into this pickle. 
 
 NEAT'S TONGUE FRESH, IK A 
 PLAIN WAY. Lard a tongue with tolera- 
 ble-sized lardons, and boil it in broth, or in 
 water, with a few onions and roots; when 
 it is done, peel it, and serve it with broth, 
 sprinkling it over with a little pepper and 
 salt; it is also used without larding, and 
 being boiled fresh in this manner, is consid- 
 ered very good for mince-pie meat. 
 
 NEAT'S TONGUE, ROASTED, A LA 
 FRASCAISE. Boil a neat's tongue, and 
 Lhnrh it ; set it by til! it is cold, then cut a 
 hole in ill-- under part, and take out the 
 meat, mince it with two or three hard eggs, 
 an apple, beef-suet, and bacon; season with 
 salt, Ix-aten ginger, and sweet herbs, shred 
 \cry fine; stuff the tongue with this force- 
 meat ; then cover the end with a veal caul, 
 lard it with bacon, and roast it ; serve with 
 a sauce made of gravy, butter, and the juice 
 of oranges, garnish the dish with sliced Jem- 
 on-peel and barberries. 
 
 NOUGAT. Blanch and wash a pound 
 of sweet almond.*, and ha\ ing drained them 
 well, cut each into five slips, which place in 
 a gentle oven to dry ; let them be all equally 
 colored of a clear yellow ; in the meantime, 
 put three-quarters of a pound of fine sugar 
 into a preserving pan, set it on a stove, stir- 
 ring with a wooden spoon until completely 
 dissolved ; then take the almonds out of the 
 oven, and whil.it hot throw them into the li- 
 quid sugar; mix them together well. I In, 
 lady a mould well oiled, of any hhape you 
 
 think proper, in the interior of which place 
 the slips of almonds, by means of lemon-juice, 
 when the whole is covered, remove the mould 
 carefully, and serve the Nougat. 
 
 NOYAU. (1) Peaches and nectarines, 
 in equal quantities, are to be bruised, die 
 stones broken, and the kernels blanched and 
 bruised ; they are then to be put into a jar 
 in layers, one of fruit, one of kernels, and 
 one of pounded loaf sugar, and so on until 
 the jar is full; as much white brandy is 
 then to be added as the jar will hold; and 
 when it has stood for five or six montlis, it 
 is to be filtered and bottled for use. 
 
 NOYAU. (2) One pound of bitter al- 
 monds, blanched, is to be steeped three 
 months in four quarts of large-still proof 
 whisky, or pale brandy, four pounds of loaf 
 sugar are then to be clarified and added to 
 the strained or filtered spirits, together with 
 half a pint of pure honey. It is sometimes 
 colored with a little cochineal; and may 
 also be made, allowing three parts of sweet, 
 and one of bitter almond*. 
 
 NOYAU. (3) The rinds of three large 
 lemons, half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 |x>undfid, are to be mixed into a quart of the 
 best Hollands gin, three table-spoonfuls of 
 tailing milk being added. It is to be put 
 into a bottle or jar, and shaken every day 
 for three weeks, and then filtered through 
 chamois leather or blotting paper, when it 
 will be fit for use. 
 
 O. 
 
 OAT CAKES are made in the same 
 manner as muffins, using sifted oatmeal in- 
 stead of flour, and three gallons of water in- 
 stead of two: pull the dough into pieces, 
 roll and finish the cakes as directed for muf- 
 fins. When wanted, pull the edges apart, 
 toast them nicely on both sides, and dien 
 open them completely; lay in small piece* 
 of butter, until you have as much as}ou may 
 want; close them again, set them before 
 die fire, and cut each in halves or quarters. 
 
 OATMEAL PORRIDGE. Boil some 
 \\.id r iii' a saucepan with a little salt, and 
 stir oatmeal into it with a thevil; when of 
 a proper thickness, let it boil for four or 
 five minutes, stirring it all the time; then 
 pour it into a dish, and serve widi it cream 
 or milk. It is sometimes eaten with porter 
 and sugar, or ale and sugar. If made with 
 milk instead of water, less meal is requisite, 
 and it is then eaten with cold milk.
 
 OME 
 
 124 
 
 OME 
 
 OLIVE ROYALS. Boil one pound of 
 potatoes, and when nearly cold rub them 
 perfectly smooth with four ounces of flour 
 and one ounce of butter, and knead it to- 
 gether till it become a paste; roll it out 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into 
 rounds, and lay upon one side any sort of 
 cold roasted meat cut into thin small bits, 
 and reasoned with pepper and salt ; put a 
 very small bit of butter over it, wet the 
 edges, and close the paste in the form of a 
 half circle. Fry them in boiling fresh drip- 
 ping of a light brown color ; lay them be- 
 fore the fire, on the back of a sieve, to drain. 
 Serve them with or without gravy in the 
 dish. For a change, mince the meat, and 
 season it as before directed. The potatoes 
 should be very mealy. 
 
 OLIVES. There are three sorts, the 
 Italian, Spanish, and French; they may 
 be had of various sizes and flavors, some 
 prefer one sort, and some another. 
 
 The fine salad oil is made from this fruit, 
 for which pui-|x>se they are gathered ripe; 
 for pickling they are gathered when only 
 half ripe, at the latter end of June ; they are 
 put into fresh water to soak for a couple of 
 days ; after this they are thrown into lime- 
 water, in which some pearl-ashes have been 
 dissolved ; in this liquor they lie for six and 
 thirty hours ; they are then put into water 
 which has had bay-salt dissolved in it; this 
 is die last preparation, and they are sent 
 over to us in this liquor; they are naturally, 
 as they grow on the tree, extremely bitter, 
 and therefore all these preparations are nec- 
 essary to bring them to their fine flavor. To 
 some olives they add a small quantity of es- 
 sence of spices, which is an oil drawn from 
 cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, coriander, and 
 sweet fennel-seed distilled together for that 
 purpose ; twelve drops are sufficient for a 
 bushel of olives ; some prefer them flavored 
 with this essence. 
 
 OMELETS AND VARIOUS WATS 
 
 OF DRESSING EGGS. There is no dish 
 which may be considered as coming under 
 the denomination of a made dish of die sec- 
 ond order, which is so generally eaten, if 
 good, as an omelet; and no one is so often 
 badly dressed : it is a very faithful assistant 
 in the construction of a dinner. 
 
 When you are taken by surprise^nd wish 
 to make an appearance beyond what is pro- 
 vided for the every-day dinner, a little port- 
 able soup melted down, and some zest and a 
 few vegetables, will make a good broth ; a 
 pot of stewed veal warmed up ; an omelet ; 
 and some apple or lemon fritters, can all be 
 got ready at ten minutes notice, ami with 
 the original foundation of a leg of mutton, or 
 a piece of beef, will make up a very good 
 
 dinner when company unexpectedly arrives, 
 in the country. 
 
 The great merit of an omelet is, that it 
 should not be- greasy, burnt, nor too much 
 done: if too much of the white of the eggs is 
 left in, no ait can prevent its l>eing hard, if 
 it is done: to dress the omelet, the fire 
 should not be too hot, as it is an object to 
 have the whole substance heated, without 
 much browning the outside. 
 
 One of the great errors in cooking an om- 
 elet is, that it is too thin; consequently, in- 
 stead of feeling full and moist in the mouth, 
 the substance presented is little better than 
 a piece of fried leather: to get the omelet 
 thick is one of the great objects. With re- 
 spect to the flavors to be introduced, these 
 are infinite; that which is most common, 
 however, is the best, viz. finely chopped 
 parsley, and chives or onions, or eschalots: 
 however, one made of a mixture of tarragon, 
 chervil, and parsley, is a very delicate va- 
 riety, omitting or adding the onion or chives. 
 Of the meat flavors, the veal kidney is the 
 most delicate, and is the most admired by 
 the French: this should be cut in dice, and 
 should be dressed (boiled) before it is added; 
 in the same manner, ham and anchovies, 
 shred small, or tongue, will make a *ery 
 delicately flavored dish. 
 
 The objection to an omelet is, that it is 
 too rich, which makes it advisable to eat 
 but a small quantity. An addition of some 
 finely mashed potatoes, about two table- 
 spoonfuls, to an omelet of six eggs, will 
 much lighten it. 
 
 Omelets are often served with rich gra- 
 vy ; but, as a general principle, no substance 
 which has been fried should be served in gra- 
 w, but accompanied by it, or what ou^ht to 
 eat dry and crisp, becomes soddened and 
 flat. 
 
 In the compounding die gravy, great care 
 should be taken dial the flavor does not over- 
 come that of the omelet, a thing too little 
 attended to: a fine gravy, with a honoring 
 of sweet herbs and onions, we think the l>est ; 
 some add a few drops of tarragon vinegar; 
 but this is to be done only with great care: 
 gravies to omelets are in general thicken- 
 ed: diis should never be done with (lour; 
 potato starch, or arrow-root, is the best. 
 
 Omelets should be fried in a small fry- 
 ing-pan made for dial purpose, with a small 
 quantity of butter. The omelet' 
 merit is to be diick, so as not to taste of the 
 outside; therefore use only half die number 
 of whites that you do yolks of eggs : every 
 care must be taken in frying, even at the 
 risk of not having it ([iiite set in die middle: 
 an omelet, which has so much vogue 
 abroad, is here, in general, a dlin doubled- 
 up piece of leadier, and harder dian soft 
 leadier sometimes. The fact is, diat as much
 
 OME 
 
 125 
 
 ONI 
 
 care murt be bestowed on the frying, as 
 should be taken in poaching an egg. A 
 salamander is necessary to those who will 
 have the lop brown ; lx.it the- kitchen shovel 
 
 may be MI!M itnted for it. 
 
 The followim: receipt is tlie basis of all 
 omelets, of which you may make an end- 
 less variety, by taking, instead of the pars- 
 ley and eschalot, a portion of sweet herbs, 
 or any of the articles used for making force- 
 meats, or any of the forcemeats. 
 
 - are callml by the name of what 
 is added to flavor them: a ham or tongue 
 onii-let ; an anchovy, or veal kidney ome- 
 let, Sic.: the* 1 are prepared exactly in the 
 sunn- way a. in the first receipt, leaving out 
 the pai>le\ ami eschalot, and mincing the 
 ham in- kidnev very tine, See., and adding 
 that in the place of them, and then pour over 
 them all sorts of thickened gravies, sauces, 
 &c. 
 
 OMKLET. (1) Five or six eggs will 
 make a good-sized omelet; break them 
 into a li.i-ni. and Beat them well with a fork ; 
 and add a salt-s|xMinful of salt; have ready 
 two drachms of onion, or three 
 drachms of parsley, a good clove of e-chalot 
 miiired very line; beat it well up with the 
 eg>; then take four ounces of fresh butter, 
 and lireak half of it into large bits, and put 
 it into tin- omelet, and the other half into 
 a very clean fi s ing-pan ; when it is melted, 
 pour in die omelet, and stir it with a spoon 
 till it begins to set, then turn it up all round 
 the edges, and when it is of a nice brown it 
 is done: the safest way to take it out is to 
 put a plait: on tin- omelet, and turn the pan 
 ii|i:-ide-d'iwii: serve it on a hot dish; it 
 should never t>e dune till just wanted. If 
 maigre, grated cheese, shrimps, m 
 If oy-lers, lx.il them tour minutes, and take 
 awav tin- lieard ami nri.-ily part; tliey may 
 cither be put in whole, or cut in bits. 
 
 OMKLET. (2) Beard and parboil twelve 
 or sixteen oysters, seasoning them with a few 
 
 |n-p|H i corns, .-.train and chop them; beat 
 well >ix eggs; (Kirlxjil and mince a little 
 par.- lex ; mix all together, and season with a 
 little nutmeg, salt, and a (able-spoonful of 
 iiiu>hi-iHim ketchup; fry il lightly in three 
 i I Miller, and hold it for a minute or 
 two U't'ore the fire. 
 
 OMKLET. (S) Beat well and nti.im-i\ 
 
 "Id them to three ounces of butter 
 
 made hot ; mix in s iim- sjrale.l ham, pepper, 
 
 sail, and nutmeg, some chopped chives and 
 
 ]vir>le\. l-'iy it of a light brown color. 
 
 some salt and chopped parsley; then beat 
 them well, and season them according to 
 taste, then have ready some onion chopped 
 small ; put some butter into a fry inn-pan, and 
 when it is hot (but not to burn) put in your 
 chopped onion, giving them two or three 
 turns ; then add your eggs to it, and fry the 
 whole of a nice brown, you must only fry 
 one side. When done, turn it into a dish, 
 the fried side uppermost, and serve. 
 
 OMELET FRITTERS. Make two or 
 three thin omelets, adding a little sweet ba- 
 sil to the usual ingredients; cut them into 
 small pieces and roll them into the form of 
 olives; when cold, dip them into batter, or 
 enclose them in puff paste; fry, and serve 
 them with fried parsley. 
 
 OMELET WITH KIDNEY OF 
 VEAL. To eight well-beaten eggs, add a 
 litile salt, and part of a cold roasted kidney 
 of veal, finely minced; season with pepper, 
 and a little more salt ; melt in a fryinu-pan 
 one ounce and a half of butter, and pour in 
 the omelet ; fry it gently, and keep the mid- 
 dle |>art moist ; when done, roll it equally 
 u|Kiii a knife, and serve it very hot. 
 
 OMELET AU NATUREL. Break 
 eight or ten eggs into a pan, add pepper, 
 salt, and a spoonful of cold water, beat them 
 up with a whisk; in the meantime put some 
 fresh butter into a frying-pan, when it is quite 
 melted and nearly boiling, put in the eggs, 
 &c. with a skimmer; as. it is frying, take 
 up the edges, that they may be properly 
 done; when cooked, double it; serve \.rv 
 hot. 
 
 ONIONS. The small round silver button 
 onions, about as big as a nutme<;. make a 
 very nice pickle. Take off their topcoats, 
 have n adv a stew pan, three pails tilled w ith 
 boiling water, into which put as many on- 
 ions as will cover the (op: as soon as they 
 look clear, immc-diately take them up with 
 | a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth 
 i three times folded, and cover them with 
 another till \oii have ready as many as, you 
 wish: when they are quite dry, put them into 
 I jars, and cover them with hot pickle, made 
 i by infixing an ounce of horseradish, same of 
 allspire, and same of lilack [x-pppr, and same 
 of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar, 
 in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of tlic 
 I fire for three days, keeping it well closed ; 
 when cold, bun;; them down tight, and cover 
 them with bladder wetted with the pickle 
 and lea I her. 
 
 OMKLKT. (4) Take as many eggs as OMONS STKXVKI). The large Por- 
 you think prnjier (according to the size of tuiral onions are the U-st: take oft the top- 
 vour omrlet) break them into a basin with ' coats of half a dozen of these (taking care
 
 ONI 
 
 126 
 
 OR A 
 
 not to cut off the tops or tails too near, or 
 the onions will go to pieces), and put them 
 into a ste\v|n broad enough to hold them 
 without laying them atop of one another, 
 and just cover diem with good broth. Put 
 them over a slow fire, and let them simmer 
 about two hours; when yon dish them, turn 
 them upside down, and pour the sauce over. 
 
 ONIONS TO PICKLE. Peel the onions 
 till they look white; boil some strong salt 
 and water, and pour it over them ; let them 
 stand in this twenty-four hours, keep die 
 vessel closely covered to retain die steam: 
 after that time wipe die onions quite dry, 
 
 and when they are cold, pour boiling vinegar, 
 
 . . . * . i. 
 with singer and white pepper over them. 
 
 Take care the vinegar always covers the 
 onions. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, YOUNG. Peel a 
 
 pint of button onions, and put diem in water 
 till you want to put diem on to boil; put 
 them into a stewpan, with a quart of cold 
 water; let them boil till tender; diey will 
 take (according to their size and age) from 
 half an hour to an hour. 
 
 ONION SAUCE. Those who like the 
 full flavor of onions only cut off die strings 
 and tops (without peeling off any of the 
 skins), put diem into salt and water, and let 
 diem lie an hour; then wash them, put them 
 into a kettle with plenty of water, and boil 
 them till diey are tender: now skin them, 
 
 !>ass them through a colander, and mix a 
 ittle melted butter widi diem. N. B. Some 
 mix the pulp of apples, or turnips, widi die 
 onions, others add mustard to diem. 
 
 ONIONS, TO PREPARE FOR SEA- 
 SONING. Peel and mince three or four 
 onions, put them into a saucepan with a lit- 
 tle cold water. Let diem lil till (|iiite 
 tender, and then pulp diem with the liquor 
 through a hair sieve, when it may be mixed 
 widi any made dishes or sauces. 
 
 ONIONS YOUNG, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Choose some of the small silver onions, put 
 them on in cold water, and when it is scald- 
 ing hot, take them out with an egg slice; 
 peel off die skins till they look white and 
 clear; lay them into the folds of a cloth. 
 Boil, in a quart of vinegar, half an ounce of 
 pepper, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, die 
 same of garlic, and one sliced nutmeg; put 
 tin- onions into a jar, and pour over them 
 the boiling vinegar and spices. When cold, 
 tie leather over die jar. 
 
 ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED. Peel 
 them, and let them lie an hour in fold water, 
 put them on in bo i I'm!; milk and water; 
 
 boil diem till tender, and cerve diem with 
 melted butter poured over them. 
 
 ONIONS, ROAST. Roast them with 
 the skins on in a Dutch oven, that they may- 
 brown equally. They are eaten with cold 
 fresh butter, pep|>er, and salt. 
 
 ONIONS STEWED. (1) Take a dozen 
 
 of good-sized onions, |>eel and put them on 
 in the following sauce : A pint of veal si< n-k , 
 a bit of butler rolled in flour, a little pep|ier, 
 and salt. Stew them gently for an hour, 
 and, just before serving, mix in three table- 
 spoonfnls of cream. To stew them in a 
 brown sauce, take die same quantity of good 
 gravy. In a stewpan brown, of a li . 
 lor, a little butter and flour, add tin- ui,i\y 
 and onions, with a little pepper and salt, anil 
 stew diem gendy one hour. 
 
 ONIONS STEWED. (2) Peel five or 
 six large onions, put them into a Dutch oven 
 or cheese-toaster to roast, turn them frequent- 
 ly, and when they are well browned, put 
 them into a saucepan, with a lx>ne of 
 or undressed meat, a slice of bacon, a little 
 water, and some pepper. Co\er tlie pan 
 closely, and stew them till tender. Take 
 out die bone and die bacon; thicken die 
 sauce with a bit of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 ORANGE BISCUITS. Take the grat- 
 ed rind of an orange, six frcr-h 
 quarter of a pound of flour, and diree-qnar- 
 ters of a pound of powder sugar ; put these 
 into a mortar, beat them to a paste, which 
 put into cases, and bake like other bis- 
 cuits. 
 
 ORANGE CHEESECAKES. To IK 
 made in the same way, as lemon cheese- 
 cakes. 
 
 ORANGE CREAM, FROTH F.D. Make 
 a pint of cream tery sweet, put it over the 
 fire, let it just boil, put die juice of a larye 
 orange into a small deep glass, hating pre- 
 vioiisK stvj>vd a bit of orange-peel |i>r ; 
 short time in the juice, when the cream is 
 almost cold, pour it out of a tea-pot iijxm 
 die juice, holding it as high as possible. 
 
 ORANGE CUSTARD. Having toiled 
 the rind of a Seville orange very tender, beat 
 it in a mortar to a fine paste ; put to it die 
 juice of a Seville orange, a spoonfid of die 
 best brandy, four ounces of loaf-sugar, and 
 die yolks of four eggs ; beat them all well 
 toge'dier ten minutes, then pour in by degrees 
 a pint of boiling cream; keep beating it till 
 cold ; put it into custard glasses. Set them 
 in an eartlicn dish of hot water; let them 
 stand till they are set, dien stick preserved
 
 ORA 
 
 127 
 
 OVE 
 
 orani."'. or orange chips, on the top. 
 be >er\ed hot or cold. 
 
 It may 
 
 ORANGE FOOL. Take the juice of 
 six oranges, six eggs well beaten, a pint of 
 cream, a quarter of ,i pound of siupir, a littk- 
 cinnamon and nutmeg. Mix all well togeth- 
 er; .-tii it OUT a slow fire till thick, then put 
 in a Mnall piece of butter, and keep stirring 
 it till cold. 
 
 ORANGE GINGERBREAD. Sift two 
 pounds and a quarter of fine tlour, and add 
 to it a pound and three-quarters of treacle, 
 six ounces of candied orangc-|>ecl cut small, 
 three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one 
 ounce of Around ^inu'er, and one ounce of 
 allspice : melt to an oil three-quarters of a 
 pound of butter; mix the whole u 
 er, and lay it by for twelve hours; roll it 
 out with as little flour as possible, about 
 half an inch thick; cut it into pieces three 
 inches I. .nt; and two wide; mark them in 
 the torn! of checkers with the back of a 
 knife; put them on a l>aking-platc about a 
 quarter of an inch apart; rub them over with 
 a linish di|>|x.-d in the yolk of an egi: l>e,u uj> 
 will) a !;- uplhl of milk; bake it in a cool 
 oven alxjiit a quarter of an hour: when done, 
 wash them slightly over again, divide the 
 pieces with a knife (as in baking they will 
 tun together). 
 
 O ! ! \ M . i ". LIQUOR. To each orange, 
 one quart of strong spirit*, and one pound 
 and a quarter ot'loat'.-mgar are allowed; six 
 or eight rlo\es are to lie stuck into each or- 
 an^e, which, with tlie spirits and sugar, is 
 to IM- |xit into a jar. It must ! < i 
 cred, and stirred occasionally in tin' i ur-. 
 of two months; it is then to be tillered through 
 hlotlini: paper, and Ixitflcd t 
 
 Ix-moii liquor ig made in the same way, 
 substituting lemons (iir orange*. Instead of 
 mixing the sugar with the oilier materials in 
 '.lie jar, it may Ix' mad:- into a simp, and 
 added to the trained or filtered spirits. 
 This, tlioiiuli more troublesome, will be found 
 a Ixjtler method. 
 
 OR\N<;K OR LEMON-I'EEL. T- 
 
 MI\ WIIH MI KKIM;. IVel a S.-ville or- 
 lemon, very thin, taking off only the 
 v rind (without any ..f the white): 
 pound it in a mortar with a hit of lump su- 
 gar; nib it well with the peel; l>y degrees 
 add a little of the forcemeat it is ID be miv I 
 with: when it \g well ground and blended 
 with this, mix it with tlie whole: there is 
 no otln i way of incorporating it so well. 
 Forcenr-ai-. Xc. are frequently spoiled by 
 tlie instiilicient mixing of the ingredients. 
 
 ORANGE SIRUP, FOR PUNCH OR 
 PUDDING. See Juttict. 
 
 ORANGEADE. (1) Squeeze the juice; 
 pour some lx>iling water on the peel, and 
 cover it closely ; Ixiil water and sugar to a 
 thin simp, and skim it ; when all are cold, 
 mix the juice, tin: infusion, and tlie sirup, 
 with as much water as will make a rich 
 sherlx-t ; strain it through a jelly-bag. 
 
 ORANGEADE. (2) This refreshing 
 beverage is made precisely in the same man- 
 ner as lemonade, only substituting oranges 
 for lemons. 
 
 ORANGE PEEL RATAFIA. Put 
 
 the peels of a dozen thick-skinned oranges 
 into a gallon of brandy ; dissolve two pounds 
 of sugar in the juice of the oranges, add to it 
 the brandy, and having stirred them togeth- 
 er well, close the vessel tightly, and leave it 
 for a month ; then strain it off, and bottle it. 
 
 ORGEAT. (1) Pound very fine one 
 pound of Jordan, and one ounce of bitter, 
 almonds, in a marble mortar, with halt" a gill 
 of oranu'e-tlower water to keep them from 
 oiling; then mix with ihein one pint of 
 rose and one pint of spring-water ; rub it 
 through a tamis cloth or lawn sieve, till the 
 almonds are quite dry, which will reduce the 
 quantity to about a quart : have ready three 
 pints of clarified sugar or water, and boil it 
 to a iT.ick (which' may be known by dipping 
 your fingers into tlie sugar, and then into 
 cold water ; and if you find the sugar to crack 
 in moving your finger, it has boiled enough) ; 
 put in the almonds; boil it one minute, and 
 when cold put it into small bottles close 
 corked; a table-spoonful of which will be 
 sufficient for a tumbler of water: shake the 
 Ix.ttk- Ix-lore using. If the orgeat is for 
 present use, the almonds may l)e [xiunded as 
 I o\e, and mixed with one quart of water, 
 one quart of milk, a pint of eapillaire or 
 clarified sugar, nibbed through a tamis or 
 line ,-ii-ve, au'i put into decanters for use. 
 
 ORGEAT. (2) A quarter of a" pound 
 . and one ounce and a half of bitter 
 almond*, are tolx< blanched, and thrown into 
 cold water, then IXM-CII in a marble mortar, 
 and moistened ix-ca.-ioually with a S|u>ouful 
 of milk, to prevent tlicir oiling; three pints 
 of milk are then to bo mixed uradnaliy with 
 them, and after being sweetened, boiled, 
 stirred till cold, ami strain* >!, a glass of wine 
 or brandy is to Ix- added. 
 
 OVEN, Di:,T.TloNS FOR THE. 
 IV \cr\ careful to keep your oven clean, and 
 that then- are no remains of sninr or fat that 
 may have rim OTOT from any tiling that lias 
 I ecu baking. Pull-pastes require a mode- 
 rately hot men. but not too hot, or it will 
 ,-poil the sha|X- and turn it over; tart-|Kite,
 
 oxc 
 
 128 
 
 OYS 
 
 or short crust, requires a slower oven; pe- 
 tits-bhoux, one still slower; hut for raised 
 pies, let it be as hot as for puff-paste at first, 
 and well closed, so that the pies may not fall. 
 Therefore, when you give a dinner where 
 pnste is necessary, endeavor to make it in 
 the morning; heat your oven first for the 
 puff-paste, which must be baked the first; 
 then let the oven go gradually down, and 
 bake your pastes in rotation, as the heat 
 falls. Savoy biscuits require a cool oven, 
 and, by degrees, raise the heal as die biscuits 
 are baking. For souffles or light puddings, 
 have a gentle oven, and contrive BO as to have 
 them ready by the time they are wanted, or 
 they will fall. The greatest attention should 
 also be paid in heating the oven for baking 
 
 cakes, particularly for those that are large. 
 If not pretty quick, die batter will not rise. 
 Should you fear its catching by being too 
 quick, put paper over the cake to prevent its 
 being burnt. If not long enough lighted to 
 have a body of heat, or if it has become 
 slack, the cake will be heavy. To know 
 when it is soaked, take a broad bladed 
 knife that is very bright, and plunge it into 
 the centre ; draw it instantly out, and if the 
 least stickiness adheres, put the cake imme- 
 diately in, and shut up the oven. Il'ihe heat 
 was sufficient to raise, but not to soak, fresh 
 fuel must be quickly put in, and the cakes 
 kept hot until die oven is fit to finish the 
 soaking, but this must only be done in a ease 
 of great emergency; for those who are em- 
 ployed ought to be particularly careful dial 
 no mistake occur from negligence. 
 
 OX-CHEEK STEWED. Prepare this 
 the day before it is to be eaten ; clean it, and 
 put it into soft water just warm; let it lie 
 dirce or four haul's, then put it into cold wa- 
 ter, and let it soak all night; next day wipe 
 it clean, put it into a stewpan, and just cover 
 it with water; skim it well when it is com- 
 ing to a boil, then put two whole onions, 
 stick two or diree cloves into each, three 
 turnips quartered, a couple of carrots sliced, 
 two bay-leaves, and twenty-four corns of all- 
 spice, a head of celery, and a bundle of 
 sweet-herbs, pepper, and salt ; to these, 
 those who are for a " haut gout " may add 
 cayenne and garlic, in such proportion as 
 tiii palate that requires them may desire. 
 Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, t. e. 
 about three hom-s; then take out die cheek, 
 divide it into handsome pieces, fit to Help at 
 table; skim, and strain the gravy; melt an 
 ounce and a half of butter in a slew pan ; M ir 
 into it as much flour as it will take up; mix 
 with it by degrees a pint and a half of the 
 gravy ; add to it a table-spoonful of basil, 
 tarragon, or elder vinegar, or die like quan- 
 tity of mushroom or walnut ketchup, or cav- 
 ice, or Port wine, and give it a boil. 
 
 OX CHEEK, TO BOIL. Wash very 
 clean, half a head; let it lie in cold water 
 all night; break the bone in two, taking care 
 not to break the flesh. Put it on in a pot 
 of boiling water, and let it l>oil from two to 
 three hours; take out the bone. Serve it 
 widi boiled carrots and turnips, or savoys. 
 The liquor the head has been boiled in may 
 be strained and made into Scots barley broth, 
 or Scots kale. 
 
 OX FEET JELLY. Put a little hot 
 water over the top of the stock, pour it off, 
 and wi|>e it dry with a clean cloth ; put a 
 quart of it into a saucepan with the beaten 
 whites of five or six eggs, the juice of five 
 lemons made very sweet with good brown 
 sugar, a clove or two, and a little cinna- 
 mon pounded; let it boil twenty minutes, 
 stirring it all the time ; take it off the fire, 
 and add a pint, or half a pint of white 
 \vine, and run it through a jelly-bag till 
 clear. 
 
 OX-TAILS STEWED. Divide them 
 into joints; wash them; parboil them; set 
 them on to stew in just water enough to 
 cover them, and dress them in the same 
 manner as we have directed in Stewed Gib- 
 lets, for which diey are an excellent substi- 
 tute. 
 
 OYSTERS. Some piscivorous gour- 
 mands diink that oysters are not best when 
 quite fresh from their l>eds, and that their 
 flavor is too brack isli and harsh, and is much 
 ameliorated by giving diem a feed. 
 
 To FEED oysters. diver them with 
 clean water, with a pint of salt to alxnit two 
 gallons (nothing else, no oatmeal, flour, nor 
 any other trumpery); this will cleanse them 
 from the mud and sand, &c. of the bed ; af- 
 ter they have lain in it twelve hours, change 
 it for fresh salt and water, and in twelve 
 hours more they will be in prime order for 
 the mouth, and remain so two or three days: 
 at the time of hi<jh water you may see them 
 open their shells, in expectation of receiving 
 their usual food. This process of li cding 
 oysters is only employed when a gn-a! many 
 come up together. 
 
 Common |>eople are indifferent about the 
 manner of opening oysters, and the time of 
 eating them after they are opened ; nothing, 
 however, is more important in the enlight- 
 ened eyes of die experienced oyster-eater. 
 
 Those who wish to enjoy this delicious 
 restorative in its utmost perfection, must 
 eat it the moment it is opened, with its own 
 gravy in the under shell ; if not eaten while 
 absolutely alive, its flavor and spirit are lost. 
 
 Shell-iish have' long held a high rank in 
 the catalogue of easily digestible and sjieedi- 
 ly restorative foods; of these the oy=ter cer-
 
 O YS 
 
 129 
 
 OYS 
 
 tainly deserves the best character, but we 
 think it has acquired not a little more repu- 
 tation for th<M- qualities than it de^ 
 well-die-* '1 chop or sneak, will imigorate 
 the heart in a much higher ratio; to recruit 
 the animal spirits, and sup|>ort 
 there is nothing equal to animal tood; when 
 kept till pnnx'iK tender, none will give so 
 little trouble to flic- digestive organs, .mil s.i 
 much ;iibs.tantial excitement to the constitu- 
 tion. 
 
 < IYSTKU ATTELETS. Cut into small 
 pieces a sweetbread and a slice or two of 
 bacon, U-ard some large oysters, and season 
 all liighlv with chopped parsley, shallot, a 
 little tin me, [vp[-r and salt. Then fasten 
 them alternately upon wire skewers; put 
 sifted bread crumbs over them, and broil or 
 fry them of a light brown color. Take them 
 oft' tint skewers, and serve them with some 
 rich gravy, to which add a little ketchup and 
 lemon pickle. 
 
 OYSTERS, BAKED. Grate a small 
 
 loaf of ,-tal'- In. -ad. Butteradeep dish well, 
 and i "\' r the sides and bottom with bread 
 crumbs. 1'ut in half the oysters with a lit- 
 and pepper. Cover tliem with 
 nl small bits of butter strewed over 
 tJicm. Then put in the remainder of the 
 oysters. Season them. Cover them as 
 U-f ire with crumbs and butter. If the oys- 
 ters are fresh pour in tlie liquor. If they 
 are salt, substitute a little water. Bake it a 
 ver\ short time. 
 
 OYSTERS, FRIED. (1) Make a batter 
 
 as fur pancakes, seasoned with grit. ! nut- 
 meg, white pepper, and salt, and add sonic 
 finely grati-d bread crnmlis; dip in the oys- 
 ters, and fry them of a light brown in beef 
 jrippi 
 
 Another way is, to dip them into the white 
 of an egg beat up, and roll diem in finely 
 grated bread crumbs, seasoned with grated 
 nutmeg, [>epix.-r ami salt, and fry them as 
 directed. 
 
 <nsTERS, FRIED. (2) The largest 
 and Hnest oysters are to be chosen for this 
 : -imnier them ill their own liquor 
 l : i a couple of minutes, take them out and 
 lay them on a cloth to drain, beard them and 
 dien flour them, egg and bread-crumb them, 
 put them into boiling fat, and fry them a 
 delicate brown. Ob*. An elegant garnish 
 for made dishes, stewed rump-steaks, boiled 
 or fried li.-h, Sic.; but they are too hard and 
 dry to be eaten. 
 
 OY-TI'KS, FRIED. (3) For frying, 
 choose the largest and finest oysters. Beat 
 ome yolki of eggs, and mix. with them grat- 
 
 ed bread, and a small quantity of beaten 
 nnt:n.-_' and mace, and a little salt. Hav- 
 ing t-tirred this batter well, dip your oys- 
 ters into it, and fry them in lard, till they 
 are of a light brown color. Take- 
 to do them too much. Serve them up hot. 
 For grated bread, some substitute ei ackers 
 |xnim!ed to a powder, and mixed with yolk 
 of egg and spice. 
 
 OYSTERS, TO KEEP AND FAT- 
 TEN. Put them into water, and wa-h and 
 clean them with a birch broom ; lav ing diem 
 with the deep shell downwards into a tub or 
 broad platter, and then .-prink le them o\ei w ith 
 salt. The follow-in;; day pour over them and 
 fill the vessel widi clean cold water, in which 
 they must remain an hour, then pour it off 
 again; sprinkle them with salt, and let this 
 be repeated every day. This method will 
 keep them good for a fortnight. 
 
 OYSTER KETCHUP. (1) Take 
 
 line frc.-h o\strrs; wash them in -their own 
 liquor; skim it; pound them in a marble 
 mortar; to a pint of o\sters add a pint of 
 Sherry; boil them up, ami add an ounce of 
 silt, two drachms of ponded mace, and one 
 of cayenne; k-t it just boil up again; skim 
 it, and nib it through a sieve, and when cold, 
 bottle it, cork it well, and seal it down. 
 
 .\. 15. It is the l>esi way to pound the salt 
 and spices, Jkc. with the oysters. 
 
 Obs. This composition very agreeably 
 heightens the flavor of white sauces, and 
 white made-dishes; and if you add a glass 
 of brandy to it, it will keep good for a consi- 
 derable time longer than oysters are out of 
 season. 
 
 OYSTER KETCHUP. (2) Boil one 
 hundred oysters with tlieir liquor, till the 
 strength be extracted from them; strain them 
 well, and add to the liquor an equal quanti- 
 ty of wine, one half Port and the other 
 Sherry, also a quarter of an ounce of mace, 
 die same of white pepper and of allspice, a 
 dr.icliiu or lea-spoonful of ginger, and six 
 - ; boil all together about fifteen 
 minute-*. Put into ajar twelve shallots, tlie 
 l-i I oi'a lemon, and a piece of horse-radish 
 cut small; pour upon diem the boiling li- 
 quor, and when cold, bottle it, together with 
 die spices. 
 
 OYSTER LOAVES. Cut off the top 
 of some small French rolls, take out the 
 crumb, and fry them brown and crisp with 
 clarified Imlter, tln-n fry some bread crumbs; 
 stew tin; requisite quantity of oysters, beard- 
 ed and cut in two, in their fiquor, with a 
 littli- white wine, some gravy, and seasoned 
 with grated lemon-peel, pounded mace, pep- 
 per, and salt ; add a bit of butter ; fill the
 
 O YS 
 
 130 
 
 OYS 
 
 rolls with the oysters, and serve them with 
 the fried bread crumbs in the dish. 
 
 OYSTER PATTIES. (1) Roll out puff 
 paste a quarter of an incli thick, cut it into 
 squares with a knife, sheet eight or ten patty 
 pans, put upon each a bit of bread die size 
 of half a walnut ; roll out another layer of 
 paste of the same thickness, cut it as above, 
 wet die edge of die bottom paste, and put 
 on die top, pare diem round to die pan, and 
 notch them about a dozen times with die 
 back of the knife, rub them lightly with yolk 
 of egg, bake them in a hot oven about a 
 quarter of an hour: when done, take a thin 
 slice off the top, dien, with a small knife or 
 spoon, take out die bread and the inside 
 paste, leaving die outside quite entire ; then 
 parboil two dozen of large oysters, strain 
 them from their liquor, wash, beard, and cut 
 them into four, put them into a stewpan 
 with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, half 
 a gill of good cream, a little grated lemon- 
 peel, die oyster liquor, free from sediment, 
 reduced by boiling to one half, some cayenne 
 pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonfiil of lemon- 
 juice ; stir it over a fire five .minutes, and 
 fill die patties. 
 
 OYSTER PATTIES. (2) Make some 
 rich puff paste, and bake it in very small tin 
 patty-pans. When cool, turn diem out upon 
 a large i^ish. Stew some large fresh oysters 
 widi a few cloves, a little mace and nutmeg, 
 some yolk of egg boiled hard and grated, a 
 little butter, and as much of the oyster liquor 
 as will cover them. When they have stew- 
 ed a little while, take diem out of die pan, 
 arid set diem away to cool. When quite 
 cold, lay two or three oysters in each shell 
 of puff-paste. 
 
 OYSTER PIE. Beard a quart of fine 
 oysters, strain die liquor, and add diem to 
 it. Cut into thin slices the kidney fat of a 
 loin of veal; season diem with while pep- 
 per, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel ; lay 
 diem on the bottom of a pie dish, put in die 
 oysters and liquor, with a little more season- 
 ing ; put over diem die marrow of two bones. 
 Lay a border of puff paste round die edge of 
 die dish ; cover it with paste, and bake it 
 pearly three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 OYSTERS, PRESERVED. Open 
 
 the oysters carefully, so as not to cut diem 
 except in dividing the gristle which attaches 
 the shells; put diem into a mortar, anc 
 when you have got as many as you can con- 
 veniently pound at once, add about two 
 drachms of salt to a dozen oysters ; pounc 
 diem, and jrub diem through die back of a 
 hair sieve, and put diem into a mortar again 
 with as much flour (which has been pre- 
 
 viously thoroughly dried) as will make diem 
 into a paste ; roll it out several times, and, 
 lastly, flour it, and roll it out die thickness 
 of a half-crown, and divide it into pieces 
 about an inch square; lay them in a Dutch 
 oven, where diey will dry so gently as not to 
 get burnt: turn them every half hour, and 
 when they begin to dry, crumble diem ; diey 
 will take about four hours to dry; dien 
 pound them fine, sift them, and put diem 
 into bottles and seal diera over. 
 
 N. B. Three dozen required seven and a 
 half ounces of dried flour to make them into 
 a paste which then weighed eleven ounces; 
 when dried and powdered, six and a quar- 
 ter ounces. 
 
 To make half a pint of sauce, put one 
 ounce of butter into a stewpan with three 
 drachms of oyster powder, and six table- 
 spoonfuls of milk ; set it on a slow fire; stir 
 it till it boils, and season it with salt. 
 
 This powder, if made with plump, juicy 
 oysters, will abound with the flavor of die 
 fish; and if closely corked, and kept in a 
 dry place, will remain good for sometime. 
 
 This extract is a welcome succedaneum 
 while oysters are out of season, and in such 
 inland paits as seldom have anv, is a valua- 
 ble addition to die list of fish sauces: it is 
 equally good widi boiled fowl, or rump steak, 
 and sprinkled on bread and butter makes a 
 very good sandwich, and is especially wor- 
 thy the notice of country housekeepers, and 
 as a store sauce for die army and navy. 
 
 OYSTERS, TO PICKLE. Open diem 
 carefully, preserving all their liquor; put 
 them into a saucepan over die fire, stirring 
 them now and then, and when die liquor 
 boils take diem off, skim die surface, and 
 put die oysters into a bowl ; let die liquor 
 settle, pour off die clear part, and put it on 
 to boil, widi, to three hundred oysters, half 
 an ounce of whole black pepper, a litde 
 mace and allspice ; boil it ten minutes, dien 
 add die oysters, and let diem boil two min- 
 utes ; put diem into a jar, and when diey 
 are cold, tie a paper over it. 
 
 ' OYSTER SAUCE. When your oys- 
 ters are opened, take care of all the liquor 
 and give diem one boil in it. Then take 
 die oysters out, and put to die liquor diree 
 or four blades of mace. Add to it some 
 melted butter, and some thick cream or 
 rich milk. Put in your oysters and give 
 diem a boil. 
 
 OYSTERSOUP. (1) Threepintsoflarge 
 fresh oysters. Two table-spoonfuls of but- 
 ter, rolled in flour. A bunch of sweet herbs. 
 A quart of rich milk. Pepper to your taste. 
 Take the liquor of diree pints of oysters. 
 Strain it, and set it on die fire. Put into it,
 
 OYS 
 
 131 
 
 OYS 
 
 pepper to your taste, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter rolled in flour, and a bunch of sweet 
 marjoram and other pot-herbs. Wbeo ii 
 boili add a quart of rich milk and as soon 
 as it boils again take out the herl*-, and 
 put in die oysters just before you send it to 
 table. 
 
 OYSTER SOUP. (2) Boil in water the 
 crumb of two twopenny roll-*, with a few blades 
 of mure, a tea-spoonful of whole while pop- 
 per, and lour onions cut small. Pick out 
 the spice, and nib the bread and unions 
 through a hair sieve, then add it to three 
 ijiian.s <>f \\i 11-x , isotied strong veal stock. 
 Kul> down three ounces of butter, with a 
 tal>le->|xioutul of Hour, and. mix it gradually 
 with half a pint of the soup, and then stir all 
 well together. When it has boiled a short 
 time, add with the liquor half a hundred or 
 more of fine oysters, and let the whole sim- 
 mer for ten or fifteen minutes. If the soup 
 is not quite salt enough with the liquor of 
 the "\-iii-, a little salt may be added. 
 
 OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (1) Put 
 them, with their liquor strained, two or three 
 blades of m i< e. a lew peppercorns, a little 
 cayenne, and a piece of butter the size of a 
 walnut, kneaded with Hour, into a stewpan. 
 Simmer them very gently for half an hour, 
 In mi means lettini; them boil; pick out tile 
 marc ;UK| |>e|>|>er; have ready, finely grated 
 bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and 
 salt ; put into the scallop-shells, or into a 
 dish, alternately a lajer of bread-crumbs, 
 then one of oysters and part of their liquor; 
 and s-tirk over the l:i.-t layer of bread-crumbs 
 a few bits of butter, and brown them in a 
 Dutch o\eii for fifteen or twenty minute:!. 
 
 OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (2) Take 
 off the beards, stew tliem in their liquor 
 strained, with a little mace, while pepper, 
 and .-.ill. Fry in a stewpan, with a bit of 
 butter, some grated bread-cnimlis, till of a 
 nice brown; |>ut them alternately with the 
 oysters into a dish. 
 
 OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (3) A 
 
 good way to warm up any cold fish. Stew 
 
 is slowK iii their own liquor for two 
 or three minutes, take them out with a spoon, 
 lieard them, ami -kim the liquor, put. a bit 
 of butter into a slew|>an; when it is melted, 
 add as much fine bread-crumbs as will dry 
 it up, then put to it the oyster liquor, and 
 
 E'w il a lx>il up, p,,t the Oysters into scal- 
 Hs!iell> that you have Ixittered, and strew- 
 wilh breaif-crumUi, then a layer ..f oys- 
 ters, then of bread-crombe, and i 
 more oysters; moisten it with die oyster li- 
 
 quor, cover them with bread-crumbs, put 
 about half a dozen little bits of butter on the 
 top of each, and brown them in a Dutch ov- 
 en. Essence of anchovy, ketchup, cayenne, 
 grated lemon-peel, mace, and other spices, 
 &c. are added by those who prefer piquance 
 to the genuine flavor of the oyster. 
 
 Cold fish may be re-dressed the same way 
 N. B. Small scallop-shells, or saucers that 
 hold about half a dozen oysters, are the most 
 convenient. 
 
 OYSTERS STEWED. (1) Stew with 
 a quart of oysters, and their liquor strained, 
 a glass of white wine, one anchovy bruised, 
 seasoned with white pepper, salt, a little 
 mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; let all 
 Blew gently a quarter of an hour. Pick out 
 the bunch of herbs, and add a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter kneaded in a large ta- 
 ble-spoonful of flour, and stew them ten or 
 twelve minutes. Serve them garnished with 
 bread-sippets and cut lemon. They may be 
 stewed simply in their own liquor, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and 
 thickened with cream, flour, and butter. 
 
 OYSTERS STEWED. (2) Open the 
 oysters and strain the liquor. Put to them 
 some grated stale bread, and a little pepper 
 and nutmeg. Throw them into the liquor, 
 and add a glass of white wine. Let them 
 stew but a very short time, or thev will I*- 
 hard. Have ready some slices of buttered 
 toast with tlie crust off. When the oysters 
 are done, dip the toast in die liquor, and 
 lay the pieces round the sides and in the 
 bottom of a deep dish. Pour the oysters and 
 liquor upon the toast and send them to ta- 
 ble hot. 
 
 OYSTERS STEWED. (3) Large oys- 
 ters will do for stewing, and by some are pre- 
 ferred. Stew a couple of dozen of these in 
 their own liquor; when they are coming to a 
 I xiil,.. kim well, take them up and beard them; 
 strain the liquor through a tamis-sieve, and 
 lay the oysters on a dish. Put an ounce of 
 butter into a stewpan ; when it is melted, 
 pit to it as, much Hour as will dry it up, the 
 liquor of the oysters, and three table-spoon- 
 fuls of milk or cream, and a little white pep- 
 per and salt ; to this some cooks add a little 
 ketchup, or finely-chopped parsley, grated 
 lemon-peel, and juice; let it boil up for a 
 couple of minutes, till it is smooth, tlien take 
 it off tlie fire, put in the oysters, and let them 
 get warm (iliey must not tliemselves be boil- 
 ed, or they will become hard) ; line the bot- 
 tom and sides of a lia.-h-di-h with bread- 
 sippets, and |xmr your oysters and sauce 
 into it.
 
 PAN 132 
 
 PAN 
 
 P. 
 
 PALATES AND SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Boil the palates till the black skin can be 
 easily peeled off; parboil the sweetbreads 
 with tlirin ; skin and cut the palates into 
 pieces, and if the sweetbreads are large, cut 
 them in two the long way ; dust them with 
 flour, and fry them of a light brown, in but- 
 ter; then stew them in rather more than a 
 pint of the liquor in which they were boiled. 
 Brown a piece of butter with flour; add 
 it, with a little cayenne, salt, pep|>er, grated 
 lemon-peel, and nutmeg, and a glass of white 
 wine. A little before serving, stir in a 
 spoonful of vinegar, or die squeeze of a lem- 
 
 PANADA. (1) Boil some pieces of stale | 
 bread in a sufficient quantity of cold water 
 to cover them, with a little cinnamon, lemon- 
 peel, and caraways; when the bread is quite 
 soft, press out all the water, and beat up die 
 bread widi a small piece of butter, a little 
 milk, and sugar to die taste; a little spice 
 may be added. 
 
 PANADA. (2) Set a little water on 
 the fire wid) a glass of white wine, some su- 
 gar, a very little nutmeg, and lemon-peel ; 
 meanwhile grate seme crumbs of bread: die 
 moment die water boils up, put in the bread- 
 crumbs (without taking it off die fire), and 
 let it boil as fast as it can. When of a 
 proper consistence, that is, when just of a 
 sufficient thickness to drink, take it off die 
 fire. 
 
 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. Break 
 three eggs in a basin ; beat diem up widi a 
 little nutmeg and salt ; then put to them four 
 ounces and a half of flour, and a little milk ; 
 beat it of a smooth batter ; dien add by de- 
 grees as much milk as will make it of die 
 thickness of good cream: the frying-pan muse 
 be about die size of a pudding plate, and 
 very clean, or diey will stick ; make it hot, 
 and to each pancake put in a bit of butter 
 about as big as a walnut: when it is melted, 
 pour in the batter to cover the bottom of die 
 pan; make diem die diickness, of half a 
 crown; fry diem of a light brown on both 
 sides. The above will do for apple fritteis, 
 by adding one spoonful more of flour; peel 
 your apples, and cut diem in thick slices ; 
 take out die core, dip diem in die batter, 
 and fry diem in hot lard; put diem on a 
 sieve to drain ; dish them neatly, and grate 
 some loaf-sugar over diem. 
 
 PANCAKES IN APPLES. Cut some 
 apples very small, stew them with a litde 
 white wine, grated lemon-peel, pounded cin- 
 namon, and brown eugar ; mash them, and 
 spread it over pancakes ; roll them up, and 
 serve with sifted loaf-sugar over them. 
 
 PANCAKES COMMON. Widi near- 
 ly half a pound of flour, mix five* well-beaten 
 eggs, and dien add, by degrees, a quart of 
 good milk; fry them in I'rcsh lard, and 
 serve them with pounded loaf-sugar strewed 
 between each. 
 
 PANCAKES FINE. To three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs, 
 diree table-spoonfuls of white wine, four 
 ounces of melted butter nearly cold, the same 
 quantity of pounded loaf-sugar, half a grated 
 nutmeg, and a pint of cream; mix it well, 
 beating die batter for sometime, and poor 
 it dun over the pan. 
 
 PANCAKE, RICE. Add to three well- 
 beaten eggs a pint of new milk, three table- 
 spoonfuls of boiled rice, some sugar, and a 
 little pounded cinnamon; mix it all well to- 
 gether, and fry it in butter; brown the up- 
 per side for a minute before die fin 
 it, cut into four, with pounded sugar strewed 
 over it. 
 
 PANCAKE RISSOLES. Mince fine- 
 ly some cold veal, season it with grated lem- 
 on-peel, nutmeg, jjepper, salt, and a little 
 lemon pickle; warm it up with some good 
 gravy, and a small bit of butter rolled in 
 flour. Have i-eady a batter as for pancakes, 
 seasoned widi a little salt and grated nutmeg. 
 Fry a thin pancake, turn it, and put into 
 the middle two table-spoonfuls of die minced 
 veal ; fold it in at each side and at the ends 
 in an oblong form, and fry them of a light 
 brown color ; lay tliem upon the back of a 
 sieve to drain before die fire. Four or six 
 will make a dish. They are served as a 
 corner or top dish. 
 
 PANCAKES, SCOTCH. Mix with 
 six table-spoonfuls of flour a little cream, add 
 die beaten yolks of six cu'irs, and then mix in 
 a pint of cream, die grated peel of a small 
 lemon, a table-spoonful of pounded sugar, 
 and a litde ratafia; wlien the baiter is very 
 well beaten, and just licforc using, mix in 
 the whites of die eggs Ix'atcn with a knife, 
 to a stiff frodi. Put a little butter or lard 
 into die frying-pan, make it hot, pour it out, 
 and wipe die pan with a clean clodi; put in 
 some butter or lard, and when hot, pour in a 
 tea-cupful of die batter: shake it, and when 
 firm, prick it a little with a fork, but do not 
 turn it; hold it before the fire a minute to
 
 PAR 
 
 133 
 
 PAR 
 
 brown. Serve them with pounded loaf-su- 
 gar strewed over them. 
 
 PANCAKE, THICK. Beat separate- 
 Jy the yolks and whiles of two 
 with the \olks :i t:ib:e-s|xxmful ;im) a hull" of 
 flour, a link' suipir ;iiid white wine, half a 
 pint of cream in- :;o'jd milk; add ihe whites, 
 and fry it in a broad saucepan, w ith Inittcr 
 or clarified met ; brown the upper side be- 
 fore the fire; warm any sort of preserve, 
 spread it ti|><iii one half, and turn tlie oilier 
 over it, and strew upon it |x>undcd loaf su- 
 gar. 
 
 I 'A \ \ 1 .< l PETS. Put into a pan, two 
 ounces of sifted flour, four of powder-sugar, 
 
 of hitter macaroons, and a spoon- 
 ful of dried oranuc-tlowers ; break up all 
 these articles, and mix with them the yolks 
 often e^'i;s,P(ur large glasses of double cream, 
 and a pinch of salt. \Va.-h the bottom of a 
 ftying-pan lightly with some warm clarified 
 butter, then put in it a s|x>onful of the above 
 prepanition, spread it over tlie pan, to make 
 
 as thin as [x.ssible; when the pan- 
 nequet liecoines lightly colored, turn it over 
 carefully, and dc tlie other side ; then put it 
 on a tin plate, spread a little apricot marma- 
 lade over, and ha\ ing stre\ved crushed maca- 
 roons on that, roll up the pannequel till about 
 an inch in diameter; in the meantime put a 
 second s|XM>nful of your preparation into the 
 pan, and proceed in the alxive manner, gar- 
 nishing one pannequet whilst another it 
 cooking; taking rare, howe\er, to set tlie 
 l>aii over a gentle lire. When all are done, 
 cut the punnrtpiets three inches in length, 
 glaze, and di^h them. 
 
 P \IISl.r.Y. To preserve parsley through 
 the winter: in May, June, or July, take, 
 line fresh-gathered sprigs: pick, and wash 
 them clean ; set on a stew pan half full of wa- 
 ter; put a little salt in it; Ixiil, and skim it 
 1. 1 then |>ut in the panley, and let it 
 Ixjil lor a couple of minute-; lake it out, and 
 lay it on a sieve before the fire, that it may 
 \x- dried as i|iiick as |x>ssjlilc; put it by in a 
 tin box, and keep it in a dry place: when 
 you want it, lay it in a basin, and cover it 
 with warm w aier a few myiutes before you 
 use it. 
 
 1' \USI.l.y BUTTER. Wash gome 
 
 'an, and pick it carefully leaf 
 
 by leaf; put a tea-spoonful of salt into half 
 
 a pint of boiling water: Ixiil th. 
 
 alxjut ten minutes; drain it on a sieve; 
 
 mince it ipiile tine, and then bruise it to a 
 
 pulp. Tin- deli.-ary and ex> -ellence of this 
 
 jx-mis n|X)i) the 
 
 it into a 
 
 mis with it, by degrees, 
 12 
 
 about half a pint of good melted butter, only 
 do not put so much Hour to it, as die pars- 
 ley will add to its thickness: never |>onr 
 p-trsley and butter over boiled tilings, but 
 .send it up in u boat. 
 
 PARSLEY, CRISP. Pick and wash 
 young parsley, shake it in a dry cloth to 
 drain the water from it ; spread it oir a sheet 
 nf clean pa|xT in a I Hitch oven !> 
 fire, and turn it frequently until it is quite 
 crisp. This is a much more easy way of 
 prepariiiii it than frying it, which is not sel- 
 dom ill done. 
 
 PARSNIPS, TO BOIL. Scrape and 
 
 wash them nicely ; when large, divide them ; 
 boil them in milk and water till quite tender; 
 tliey will take nearly as long to boil as car- 
 rots. They may also be mashed like tur- 
 nips. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, TO CHOOSE. When 
 they are young the bill is of a dark color, 
 and their legs are of a yellowish color; and 
 when fresh, the vent is firm, but this part 
 will look greenish when stale. The plumage 
 on tlie breast of the hen la light, that on the 
 cock is tinged with red. 
 
 PARTRIDGES BROILED. Take 
 five partridges, cut them in halves, trim and 
 dip them in melted butter, and bread them 
 twice ; a quarter of an hour before dinner 
 broil them. 
 
 PARTRIDGES MINCED. Take the 
 
 fillets from eight roasted partridges, minre, 
 and put them into a sattcepan ; make a light 
 roux, in which put the livers and lights of 
 the birds, a bay-leaf, a clove, three shallots, 
 and a little sage, give them a few turns, anil 
 tlien add two large glasses of stock, reduce 
 the saire t.i half, strain and put it to the 
 mince, stirring till it is thick and smooth; 
 make it hot, but not boiling; serve it over 
 fried bread, and garnish your dish, with 
 either poached or hard eggs. 
 
 PARTRIDGE IN BREAD. Take a 
 
 nice shaped loaf, of about a pound weight ; 
 make a hole at one end, through which lake 
 out all ilie crumbs, rub the crust over with a 
 little butter or lard, and set it in th 
 a lew minutes to dry: till this with minced 
 partridge (see that article), and put the loaf, 
 bottom upwards, into a slew pan; add two 
 spoonfuls of veal blond, with any oilier gar- 
 nish you plea.se; let it remain on the fire till 
 the bread is soft enough to allow a straw to 
 it, liien take it out and dish it with 
 the sauce round. 
 
 PARTRIDGE PIE IN A DISH. T;ike
 
 PAR 
 
 134 
 
 PAS 
 
 four partridges, pick and singe them; cut 
 off their legs at the knee; season with pep- 
 per, salt, chopped pander, tbvme, and muso* 
 rooms. Put a veal steak and a slice of haul 
 at the bottom of the dish; put in tin- par- 
 tridges with half a pint of good consomme. 
 Line ilic edges of the dish with pull' paste, 
 and rover with the same; do it over with 
 egg, and let it bake tor an hour. 
 
 PARTRIDGE TO ROAST. Take 
 out the entrails, and singe the partridge over 
 die s-tove, then roll a hit of butter in pepper 
 anil salt, and put it into the inside of tin- 
 bird; truss it neatly with the head turned on 
 one side, keeping the breast as full as possi- 
 ble; over which should lx? laid slices of fat 
 bacon tied on with pack-thread; before it is 
 put on the spit, break the back-bode, that it 
 may lay the Ix-lter on the dish. A good 
 si/.eii partridge will take half an hour; when 
 nearly done, lake away the bacon, brown 
 die partridge well ; sprinkle it with flour and 
 salt, and froth it with butter; serve it with 
 water-cresses, a good gravy under it, and 
 bread sauce in a boat. 
 
 PARTRIDGE: TO TRUSS. Let it be 
 
 well picked and singed, then cut a slit in 
 the back of the nek, and carefully take the 
 crop out without breaking it; then cut off 
 the vent, and draw out th-.- inside; after this, 
 well wi|w the inside, and then put in a little 
 pepper and salt, mixed with a bit of butter. 
 Having cleansed it, proceed to truss the 
 bird, by first cutting off the pinion at the first 
 joint, so that the feathers netvl not be picked 
 off that part ; break the back-bone, and truss 
 it in the same manner as a fowl, bv pressing 
 die legs close to the apron, then turn the bird 
 on the breast, and run a skewer through the 
 end of the pinion, the leg, the body, and the 
 leg and pinion on the other side, with the 
 head fixed on the end of the skewer, and 
 over the breast lay a sliee of fat bacon, and 
 tie it on with pack-thread. If for boiling or 
 stewing, truss them the same as a fowl for 
 boiling. 
 
 PARTRIDGES TO -STEW. Truss 
 the partridges as fowls are done for boiling; 
 pound the livers with double the quantity of 
 fat bacon and bread-crumbs boiled in milk; 
 and some chopped parsley, thyme, shallots, 
 and mushrooms; season with |x-p|XT, salt, 
 grated leinou-|>cel, and mace. Stitlf the in- 
 side of the bird*, tie them at lx>th ends, and 
 put them into a stewpan lined with slices of 
 bacon ; add a quart of good stock, half a pint 
 of white wine, two onions, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a few blades of mace; let them 
 stew gently till tender; take them out, strain 
 and thicken the sauce with tlour and butter, 
 make it hot, and pour it over the partridges. 
 
 PASTE. Be very particular that your 
 slab or paste table, rolling-pin and cutters 
 are clean, and free from all old paste, and be 
 very careful that both the flour and butter 
 are extremely ;n>od. Have a dry sieve al- 
 ways in readiness, in or by the tlour tub, 
 so as to use none without sifting it; for, 
 though it may appear pure and fine, bran, or 
 small particles of old paste may ha\e fallen 
 into it ; sifting is, therefore, always neces- 
 sarv. Weigh one |xmnd of flour, lay it in a 
 circle on the slab: break one egg in the cen- 
 tre, put a small quantity of salt, and a little 
 bit of butter; mix all these together lightly, 
 adil a little water, mix them again, then add 
 more water, and so proceed until it binds 
 into paste; but take rare that yon do not 
 make it too still', nor si|ucc/e it much to- 
 gether, till yon find there is sufficient water; 
 then work it well together, and roll it out on 
 the slab, but do not roll it too thin; work -a 
 jxxind of butter on the slab, spread it out to 
 i the paste, with a knife cut it off 
 altogether, and lay it on the paste; then 
 double the ends of the paste together, to in- 
 close the butter; then give it one turn, dins: 
 roll it out till von just perceive the butter 
 through the paste; turn the end which is 
 next to you half way over, and the oilier end 
 over that, roll it once or twice with the roll- 
 ing-pin; then let it rfand, this is called one 
 turn; then, in three minutes time, turn it 
 again, and so proceed until you have given 
 it six turns; then roll it out, and cut it for 
 patties or any shape you please ; but observe 
 not to put over them too much egg, as that 
 will prevent their rising; as soon as diey 
 are baked, take them oil' the sheet, lay them 
 on paper, and when cold, scra|x' the bottoms, 
 nealK cut out the insides ready for what- 
 ever you mean to put into them. For bak- 
 ing, see directions for the oven. 
 
 PASTE, BEEF DRIPPING. Rub 
 
 into one pound of tlour half a pound of 
 clarified beef dripping, till it all looks like 
 tlour; work it to a stitf paste with cold wa- 
 ter, and roll it out two or three times. This 
 paste answers Aery well for common pies, but 
 must Iw u'd when hot and fresh baked. 
 
 PASTE FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 Pick and chop very fine half a |x>und of beef 
 suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of 
 flour, and a little salt: mix it with half a 
 pint of milk or water, and l>eat it well with 
 the rolling-pin, to incorporate the suet with 
 the tlour. 
 
 PASTE FOR CHEESECAKES. Rub 
 equal quantities of flour and butter, together 
 with a little pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 make it into a paste, with warm milk, roll 
 it out, and line die pans widi it.
 
 PAS 
 
 135 
 
 PAS 
 
 PASTE, CRISP. Rub a quarter of a 
 pound of flour, add two table-spoonful- of 
 pounded loaf-sugar, and the well-beaten volks 
 of two or three eggs, work it well with a 
 horn-sjxKin, and roll it out very thin, touch- 
 ing it as little us possible with the hands; 
 the moment Ix-fore putting into a quick oven 
 rub k over with the well-beaten white of an 
 egg, ami sift all over the tart fiiicly-|x>unded 
 sugar. This crust may be used for any fruit 
 tarts. 
 
 PASTE FOR CROQUANTS OR 
 
 fi r PASTRY. To half a pound of fine 
 flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf- 
 sugar; mix it well together with yolks of 
 eggs till of a good stiffness. 
 
 r\<TE FOR A COMMON DUM- 
 
 l'LI\<i'. Rub into a pound of flour six 
 ' butter, then work it into a paste 
 with two well-beaten eggs and a little water. 
 This pa-ie ma v be baked, a large table-spoon- 
 ful of pounded loaf-sugar being added to it. 
 
 I'\STE FOR FAMILY PIES. Rub 
 into one |xund and a half of flour half a 
 |x>und of butter, wet it with cold water suffi- 
 cient to make it into a stiff paste; work it 
 well, ami roll it out two or three times. 
 
 PASTE, POTATO. Mash sixteen oun- 
 ces of boiled potatoes, while they are warm, 
 then rub them lietween the hands, together 
 with twelve ounces of flour; when it is well 
 mixed, and nil Uiks like Hour, add half a 
 <i of .-alt. and, with a little cold 
 water, make il into a stiff |ti-te; beat and 
 roll it out three or four times, making it very 
 thin the I.L-1 time. Lay il over bl.irk cm - 
 nml jam. . .,r any sort of preserve, 
 
 rub the edije- with water, roll it up like a 
 l>ol.-!er pudding, and Ixiil it in a buttered 
 and floured cl.-ih lor three or four hours. 
 Serve- it with a sweet sauce. 
 
 I : . I ' I ; FF. Weigh an equal quan- 
 nr and butter, rub rather more tlrm 
 ihe half of the flour into one third of the 
 butter, then add as much cold water a- will 
 make it into a still' paste ; work it until the 
 butter IN: completely mixi el with the- flour, 
 in. ike il round, U-at it willi 
 
 1C rolling-pin, with : 
 roll it uut towarel.- the e.p| 
 i-lab, or |. making il e.f an equal 
 
 i with the p .ml of a knife- pnl 
 
 lillle- bits of Uim-r all over it, dn-t fl -over 
 
 anel unite r it, fold in the -ides and roll it up, 
 du-t il ai;:im with flemr, beat il a lillle, and 
 reill il out, always rubbing the rolling-pin 
 willi flour, and lliiow hi',' some uneleriieath the 
 
 Jl 'he buu.'i is ; all ca.-ily put in at the 
 
 second time of rolling out the paste, the 
 remainder may be put in at the third ; it 
 .-In n ild be touched as little as possible with 
 the liands. 
 
 PASTE, PYRAMID. Mak 
 puff paste, roll it out a quarter of an inch 
 thick, and cut it into five or seven pieces 
 with scalloped tin paste cutters, which go 
 one within another; leave the bottom and 
 top piece entire, and cut a bit out of the 
 centre of the others ; bake them of a light 
 In-own ii|m buttered pajier placed n|*m ting. 
 When served, Ixiild them into a pyramid, 
 laving a different preserved fruit upon each 
 piece of juste, and oil the top a whole apri- 
 cot, with a sprig of myrtle stuck into it, or 
 green-gnges, ornamented with a bunch of 
 barberries. 
 
 PASTE FOR MEAT OR SAVORY 
 PIES. Sift two pounds of fine flour to one 
 and a half of good salt butter, break il into 
 small pieces, and wash it well in cold wa- 
 ter ; rub gently together the butter and flour, 
 ami mix it up with tlie yolk of three eggs, 
 beat together with a sjxxjn; and nearly a 
 pint of spring-water; roll it out, and double 
 it in folds three times, and it is rcadv. 
 
 PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. Take 
 
 four pounds of flour, one pound of butter, 
 and a little silt, mix tlie.se together, adding 
 water, a little at a time, taking care not to 
 put too much, as this paste must Ijo made as 
 stiff as |x*sible; when thoroughly mixed, 
 give it two or three turn.", roll it and cut it 
 out to die slui|>e you want for your pie. 
 Sometimes the butter is melted in warm wa- 
 ter, and so mixed with the flour; tin u 
 will not require so much wah-r, and the 
 paste will stand better; but as yo > work 
 your )>usle, when yon lind it get too cold, 
 warm it a little; the lii-st method of doing 
 it is the best, if intended to be eaten. 
 
 PASTE, RICE. (1) Mix together half 
 a |xjimd of filled ground rice and a quarter 
 of a pound of lic.-h butter, work it into a 
 paste with cold water, diedge flour over the 
 -:.'>ard and rolling-pin, roll out the 
 . and put over it, ia little bits, another 
 qnai ler of a pound of butter; fold and roll it 
 out thin tin. :<-h time a little 
 
 (lour ox-r and irider it, as also over the 
 lolliiig-pin. (.'over the tart, and glaze it be- 
 fore being Ixikod. This paste must be eaten 
 tin- day it is linked. 
 
 1' \STI1. UK r. (2) Hoil, in a pint of 
 
 half a pound r.fgdiMi rice; drain off the 
 
 . ami [Hiund tlk! rice in a mortar, with 
 
 bit of Ixitter, and an i-^ beaten; 
 
 I it out to cover anv fruit tart.
 
 PEA 
 
 136 
 
 PEA 
 
 PASTE, RICH SHORT. Weigh 
 equal quantities of flour, of butter, and of 
 pounded and sifted loaf-sugar ; rub the but- 
 ter with the flour, then mix in the sugar, 
 and rub it together till it will roll out; put 
 it about half an inch thick over the tart, 
 which may be of cherries, raspberries, or 
 currants. 
 
 PASTE, SHORT, FOR TARTS. 
 Take one pound of flour, lay it on the slab, 
 and in the centre put half a pound of butter,, 
 two eggs, a very little salt, and a little wa- 
 ter, mix tliem lightly together, and continue 
 adding more water, till you find it bind ; mix 
 it on the slab a little, and give it two turns, 
 it is then ready for use. 
 
 PASTE, SUET. Rub well with half a 
 |x>und of fresh beef suet, chopped as finely as 
 possible, three-quarters of a pound of flour, 
 and half a tea-spoonful of salt ; make it into 
 a stiff" paste with cold water, work it well, 
 beat it with the rolling-pin, and roll it out 
 two or three times. This paste answers for 
 any kind of boiled fruit pudding. 
 
 PASTE, SWEET. Rub into half a 
 pound of flour three ounces of butter and tile 
 same of pounded loaf-sugar, add one beaten 
 egg, and as much warm water as will make 
 it into a paste ; roll it thin for any kind of 
 fruit tart, nib it over with tl>e beaten white 
 of an egg, and sift sugar over h. 
 
 PASTE FOR STRINGING TART- 
 LETS. Mix with your hands a quarter 
 of a pound of flour, an ounce of fresh butler, 
 and a little cold water; nib it well between 
 die board and your hand till it begins to 
 string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, 
 and draw it into fine strings, lay them across 
 your tartlets in any device you please, and 
 bake them immediately. 
 
 PATTIES FOR FRIED BREAD. Cut 
 
 the crumb of a loaf of bread into square or 
 round pieces nearly three inches high, and 
 cut bits the same width for tops ; mark tlwin 
 neatly with a knife ; fry tlie bread of a light 
 brown color in clarified beef-dripping or fine 
 lard. Scoop out the inside crumb, take 
 care not to go too near to the bottom ; fill 
 them wilh mince meat, prepared as for pat- 
 ties, with stewed oysters, or with sausage 
 meat ; put on the tops, and serve them upon 
 a napkin. 
 
 PATTIES, LOBSTER. See Lobsters. 
 
 PEACHES, CHARLOTTE OF. Take 
 twenty tolerably ripe peaches, cut tluan in 
 halves, and scafd them in a light simp ; then 
 drain and cut each half into three pieces 
 
 (lengthwise) of equal thickness ; pot these 
 into a pan with a quarter of a pound of pow- 
 der-sugar, and half the quantity of warm 
 butter; fry them lightly, and having prepar- 
 ed your Charlotte in the usual way, pour in 
 the peaches and finish it (see Charlotte). 
 When in the dish for table, cover it com- 
 pletely with the sirup, and serve immedi- 
 ately. 
 
 PEARS BAKED. (1) Take twelve large 
 
 baking pears ; pare and cut them into halves, 
 leaving the stem about half an inch long; 
 take out the core with the point of a knife, 
 and place them close together in a block-tin 
 saucepan, the inside of which is quite bright, 
 with the cover to lit quite close; put to them 
 the rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its 
 juice, a small stick of cinnamon, and twenty 
 grains of allspice; cover them with spring- 
 water, and allow one pound of loaf-suyar to 
 a pint and a half of water: cover them up 
 close, and bake them for six hours in a very 
 slow oven : they will be quite tender, and of a 
 bright color. Obs. Prepared cochineal is 
 generally used for coloring the pears; but 
 if the above is strictly attended to, it will be 
 found to answer best. 
 
 PEARS BAKED. (2) Take half a 
 dozen fine pears, peel, cut them in halves, 
 and take out the cores; put them into a pan 
 with a little red wine, a few cloves, half a 
 pound of sugar, and some water. Set them 
 in a moderate oven till tender, then put them 
 on a slow fire to stew gentlv ; add grated 
 lemon-peel, and more sugar if in 
 They will be sufficiently red. 
 
 PEARS COMPOTE. Choose your 
 fruit carefully, take oft" the tops, .and trim 
 the tails, wash and drain them well ; then 
 put them into a skillet with sugar, cinna- 
 mon, two or three cloves, a little red wine, 
 and some water. Set them on a slow fire, 
 taking care to skin them. When sufficiently 
 done, they will look wrinkled. Peel your 
 fruit, and put it into a well glazed pipkin, 
 with a glass of wine, a little cinnamon, 
 sugar to the taste, and a little water ; put in 
 also a pewter spoon; cover the pipkin close, 
 and set it on hot ashes. When done, the 
 pears will be of a fine red color. 
 
 PEARS TO COMPOUND. Take a 
 dozen large pears, coddle them ; when ten- 
 der, take them out and l.w them in cold wa- 
 ter, pare and cut them in halves; take out 
 the cores, put them in sirup made thus: 
 Two pounds and a half of sugar to fhree 
 pints of water, a little lemon-peel pared very 
 thin, boiled in them, and a little cochineal 
 bruised and put into a muslin log: cover 
 them, boil them quick till they are tender
 
 PEA 
 
 137 
 
 PEP 
 
 and of a good color ; when cold, squeeze in 
 the juice of two or three lemons. 
 
 PEARS PRESERVED. Take care 
 in making this preserve that the fruit be not 
 too ripe ; tiny are in a fit state as soon as 
 the pips are Llack. Set (lie pears on the 
 fire in a sufficient quantity of water to cover 
 them; take them off when quite soft, and 
 throw them into cold w:iti:r; pare them 
 lightly, rut oil the stalks, prick each with a 
 pin sufficiently long to reach the cere, and 
 put tliein again into cold water, with a 
 handful of alum; sei them on the fire to boil 
 until tlie pears are tender, then take them out, 
 and |xit thyin into cold water for the third 
 time. Clarifv and Ixiil some su^ar. [iiit .-.>me 
 water to it, and when it boils, add (lie |x-ais, 
 cover the |ian, and give the whole a boil; j 
 fkim and |xmr it into an earthen pan and 
 leave it. The next day, drain the sirup 
 from tin- pears, add a little more clarified | 
 sugar to it, and Ixiil it again; |x>ur it over 
 the fruit, and leave it .is before; the next 
 and two succf.-.-ive day.-, proceed in the same 
 way, each time incieaMng the degree of ' 
 boiling, then add tin- p<-ai.-, give the pre- 
 serve a boil (covered), .-kirn and pour it into 
 a pan, and place it in a stove for two days, 
 then drain die fruit, and put it by for use. 
 
 PEARS STEWED. (1) Wash and prick 
 
 some large stewing |x-ars. and set them on 
 the fire in a large stewing-pan of water to 
 scald ; when scalded, take them out, and 
 put them on the lire in a pan w illi a .-miicicnt 
 quantity of thin clarified .-ngar to cover them, 
 a -ink of cinnamon, a little mace, and two 
 or three cloves; let them stew gently till 
 they begin to soften and look rather red, 
 then pin in a little of 1'ort wine, and let 
 them continue .-ten ing until |-it.-|ly done, 
 and lo<>k very rich and red; then put them 
 in a basin or jar, with the liuuor over them; 
 they will be all the better for keeping four or 
 five days. 
 
 PEARS STEWED. (2) Pare, cut into 
 
 quarters, and take out the core of six good 
 baking [tears; throw them aa they are done 
 into water. To a pound of fruit allow a 
 quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and three 
 I ml them into a saucepan, cover 
 them with cold water, keep the pan closely 
 covered, and stew them gentry, till red and 
 tender ; add, just before serving, a glass of 
 Port wine. They may be eaten hot or cold, 
 with cream, after dinner or at supper. 
 
 IT. \<. i.KKFA. Young green peas, 
 
 well dressed, are among the most delicious 
 
 delicacie- i.f th. vegetable kingdom. They 
 
 must be young; it is equallv indispensable 
 
 12* 
 
 that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as 
 soon as they are stalled (or tley soon lose 
 both their color and sweetness. After U-ing 
 shelled, wash them, drain them in a cullen- 
 der, put them on in plenty of boiling water, 
 w itli a tea-spoonful of salt, and one of |xnmd- 
 ed loaf sugar; boil them till they become 
 tender, which, if young, will be in less AM 
 halt' an hour; if old, they will require more 
 than an hour; drain diem in a cullender, 
 and put them immediately into a dish with 
 a slice of fresh butter in it; some people 
 think it an improvement to boil a small liuiich 
 of mint with die. peas; it is then minced 
 finely, and laid in small heaps at the end or 
 >idcs of [he dish. If peas are allowed to 
 stand in the water after being boiled they 
 lose their color. 
 
 PEAS FOR A SECOND COl'USE. 
 Put a quart of tine green peas, 'ogether with 
 a bit of butter the size of a walnut, into as 
 much warm water as will cover them, in 
 which let tliem stand for eight or ten min- 
 utes. Strain off the water, put them into a 
 saucepan, cover it, stir them frequently, and 
 wlicn a little tender, add a bunch of parsley, 
 and a young onion, nearly a dessert-spoonful 
 of loaf-sugar, and an ounce of butter mixed 
 with a tea-spoonful of flour; keep stirring 
 tlii-iii now and then till the peas be tender, 
 and add, if tliey become too thick, a table- 
 spoonful of hot water. Before serving, take 
 out the onion and parsley. 
 
 PEAS PUDDING. Take a pint of 
 
 good split peas, and having waslied, soak 
 tliem well in warm water; then lie them in 
 a cloth, put the (Kidding into a >auccpan of 
 hot water, and l>oil it until quite soft. When 
 done, beat it up with a little butter and salt; 
 serve it with boiled pork or beef. 
 
 PEAS POWDER. Pound together 
 in a marble mortar half an ounce each of 
 dried mint and sage, a drachm of celery- 
 seed, and a quarter of a drachm of cayenne 
 pepper ; rub them through a fine sieve. Thia 
 gives a very savory relish to peas soup, and 
 to water gruel, which, by its help, if the 
 eater of it has not die most lively imagina- 
 tion, lie may fancy he is sipping good peas 
 soup. Obs. A drachm of allspice, or black 
 pfp|M-i , may be (xmnded with die alxivc as 
 an addition, or instead of the cayenne. 
 
 PEPPER POT. Take as much spinach 
 as will fill a good sized dish, put it in a 
 saucepan without any water, set it on the 
 fire, and let it boil ; then drain off all the li- 
 quor, chop the spinach very fine, and return 
 it to the saucepan, with die water ju>t drain- 
 ed from it, more water, onions, three or four
 
 PER 
 
 138 
 
 PIC 
 
 potatoes, a lettuce or head of endive cut 
 small, the bones of any cold roast meat, if 
 you have them, and half a pound of bacon ; 
 put the whole on the fire, and when it has 
 boiled for about an hour, put in a few suet 
 dumplings; leave it twenty or thirty min- 
 utes longer ; season it well with cayenne, and 
 serve. 
 
 PEPPER POT IN A TUREEN. Stew 
 gently in four quarts of water, till reduced to 
 three, three pounds of beef, half a pound of 
 lean ham, a bunch of dried thyme, two on- 
 ions, two large potatoes pared and sliced; 
 then strain it through a cullender, and add 
 a large fowl, cut into joints and skinned, 
 half a pound of pickled pork sliced, the 
 meat of one lobster minced, and some small 
 suet dumplings, the size of a walnut. When 
 the fowl is well boiled, add half a peck of 
 
 r'nach, that has been boiled and rubbed 
 ough a cullender; season with salt and 
 cayenne. It is very good without the lean 
 ham and fowl. 
 
 PERCH BOILED. Put them into cold 
 water, and let them boil carefully ; serve with 
 melted butter and soy. 
 
 PERCH BROILED. Scrape, gut, and 
 wash them ; dry them in a cloth, dust them 
 with flour, and broil them. Sauce ; melted 
 butter. Or they may be broiled without 
 gutting them. They may also be stewed as 
 carp are done. 
 
 PERCH WITH WINE. Having scal- 
 ed and taken out the gills, put the perch into 
 a stewpan, with equal quantities of stock 
 and white wine, a bay-leaf, a clove of gar- 
 lic, a bunch of parsley and scallions, two 
 cloves, and some salt. When done, take 
 out the fish, strain off the liquor, the dregs 
 of which mix with some butter and a little 
 flour; teat these up, set them on the fire, 
 stirring till quite done, adding pepper, grated 
 nutmeg, and a ball of anchovy butter. Drain 
 the perch well, and dish them with the above 
 sauce. 
 
 PERLINGO. Take a pound and a half 
 of sifted flour, and having placed it on your 
 slab, make a hole in the middle of it, into 
 which put three-quarters of a pound of brown 
 sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, the rind 
 of two lemons grated, and ten eggs ; knead 
 all these ingredients together well, until you 
 have a pretty firm paste ; if it should l too 
 thin, add a handful more flour. Then rut 
 the paste into small pieces, each of which 
 roll in the palms of your hands, till they are 
 the length and thickness of your finger ; take 
 a round stick (about half the diameter of your 
 
 paste), press this down on each of the 
 pieces, so that they may be their original 
 thickness on one side, and thin on the other ; 
 when all are thus pressed, form them into 
 little crowns (the flat side inwards, and the 
 thin end uppermost), lay them on white pa- 
 per, and bake them in a moderate oven ; in 
 the meanwhile, make some white sugar var- 
 nish or icing, and when the perlingos are 
 sufficiently done, dip them carefully in the 
 varnish, one by one; then replace them hi 
 the oven, a minute or two, to dry. 
 
 PERRY. Perry is a pleasant and whole- 
 some liquor, made from the juice of peal's, 
 by means of fermentation, somewhat in the 
 same manner as cider is made from apples. 
 
 PETTITOES. Boil the feet, the liver, 
 and the heart, of a sucking pig, in a little 
 water, very gently, then split the feet, and 
 cut the meat very small, and simmer it with 
 a little of the water till the feet are perfectly 
 tender; thicken with a bit of butter, a little 
 flour, a spoonful of cream, and a little pepper 
 and salt ; give it a boil up, pour it over a few 
 sippets of bread, put the feet on die mince. 
 
 PICKLE FOR 3IEAT. Six pounds 
 of salt, one pound of sugar, and four ounces 
 of saltpetre, boiled with four gallons of water, 
 skimmed, and allowed to cool, forms a very 
 strong pickle, which will preserve any meat 
 completely immersed in it. To effect this, 
 which is essential, either a heavy board or a 
 flat stone must be laid upon the meat. The 
 same pickle may be used repeatedly, provided 
 it be boiled up occasionally with additional 
 salt to restore its strength, diminished by the 
 combination of part of the salt with the 
 meat, and by the dilution of the pickle by 
 the juices of the meat extracted. By bulling, 
 the albumen, which would cause the pickle 
 to spoil, is coagulated, and rises in the form 
 of scum, which must be carefully removed. 
 
 An H-bone, of ten or twelve pounds, 
 weight will require about tlirce-quarters of a 
 pound of salt, and an ounce of moist sugar, 
 to be well rubbed into it. It will be ready 
 in four or five days, if turned and rubbed 
 every dav. 
 
 The lime meat require? .-:illiiiL r depends 
 upon the weight of it, and how much salt is 
 used: and if it be rubbed in with a heavy 
 hand, it will be ready much sooner than if 
 only lightly rubbed. 
 
 N. B. Dry the salt, and rub it with the 
 sugar in a mortar. 
 
 PORK requires a longer time to cure (in 
 
 proportion to its weight) than beef. A leg 
 
 of pork should be in salt eight or ten days; 
 
 turn it and rub it every day. 
 
 ! Salt meat should be well washed before it
 
 PIE 
 
 139 
 
 PIE 
 
 ra )x)iled, especially if it has been in salt ; 
 long, that the liquor in which the meat is 
 boiled, may not be too salt to make soup of. 
 If it h;is IH-CII in salt a long time, and yon 
 fear that it will lie too salt, wash it well in 
 cold water, and *>ak it in luke-warm water 
 for a couple of hours. If it is very tall, 
 by it in water the night before you intend to 
 dress it. 
 
 PICKLE FOR TONGUES. To four 
 gallon* of water, add two [xnmds and a 
 naif of treacle, eight pounds of silt, two 
 ounces of *all|x'tre; boil it, and skim it un- 
 til cli-.ir, sprinkle salt over the tongue, and 
 let it stand two davs, wipe it clean before 
 Jim put it into tlie pickle, which must l>e quite 
 cold; boil the pickle, every two or mm 
 months, adding two or three handfuLs of salt, 
 skimming it well. Half the (Hiantity is suf- 
 ficient for two tongues. 
 
 PICKLE FOR BEEF. Allow to four 
 gallons of wati-r two pounds of brown sn^ar 
 and six (xmnds of salt, boil it alxjnt twenty 
 minutes, taking off the scum as it rises; the 
 following dav |xuir it over the meat which 
 has l;eeii | icked into tin 1 pick I ing-tub. Boil 
 it every two months, adding three ounces of 
 brown suirar and half a pound of common 
 salt. P>\ this means it will keep good a 
 y-;ir. The meat must be sprinkled with 
 salt, and the next day wiped dry, before 
 pouring the pickle over it, with which it 
 should always U- coaipletely covered. With 
 the addition of two ounces of saltpetre and 
 one pound of salt, this pickle answer* t-'i 
 pickled pork, ham*, and tongues. The 
 tongue* *h'in!d ! nibbed with common - ih. 
 to cleaa-e ihein. and afterwards willi a little 
 saltpetre, and allowed in li" tour or li<- 
 before tln-y are put into the pickle. The 
 nie:ii will lie ready fir u.-e in ei^ht or ten 
 days, and will keep fur three mouths. 
 
 PICKI.KS. Pickles ought to lie stored 
 
 in a dry place an.l the vessels nuwt appiov- 
 ed of for keeping them in, are wiile-mouth- 
 'iles, or i. Iron:; .-toiie-\\:ne jars, 
 having; cmU* or l"i:i,'*, which mn.-t lie titled 
 iu with linen, and coM-ied with bladder or 
 leather; and l'< L l;iki,i'_; the pickles out and 
 returning thi-m to the jar, a small WMidi-u 
 s|xM>n in kept. Tlie strongest vinegar is 
 Used for pickling ; that of rider more part ic- 
 ularly recommended, Imt MI,' ir vine^rir will 
 generally le fixim! sufficiently stniu^. li is 
 enentiai to the excellence and beauty of 
 pickle-, that they be alw.t\- completely cov- 
 ered with \in'ar. 
 
 See Hot l*icklt, India I'ickles, Onions, 
 Cucumbers, fyc. 4*c. 
 
 PIE, A.NGLO-FRANCAIS. Take a 
 
 deep dish, line the edge with puff paste like 
 a common pie ; stew a quarter of a pound 
 of rice with some sugar until quite soft and 
 sweet ; take a pound of ripe juicy cherries, 
 which pick and roll in a quarter of .a pound 
 of powder-sugar, and lay about a quarter of 
 them at the Ixrttom of the dish ; cover these 
 with a fourth part of the rice, tiien the cher- 
 ries again, and so on till your materials are 
 need, taking care to keep the pie high in the 
 middle; cover it with a layer of puff paste, 
 which wash over lightly with some white of 
 egg, and strew a little powder-sugar over; 
 put it in a moderate oven for an hour and a 
 quarter; then take it out, mask the crust 
 with apricot marmalade, and a few maca- 
 roons crushed. Serve it either hot or cold. 
 
 PIE, APPLE. (1) Take eight russe- 
 tines, or lemon pippin apples; pare, core, 
 ana cut not smaller than quarters; place 
 them as close as possible together into a pie- 
 di.-h, with four clove*; rub together in a 
 mortar some lenion-|x-cl, wilh lour ounces 
 of good moist sugar, and, if agreeable, add 
 some quince jam ; cover it with puff paste; 
 bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generally 
 eaten warm). 
 
 PIE, APPLE. (2) Pare, quarter, and 
 
 core the apples; cut ihein into thin bits. 
 1'ut into the Ixjttom of a pie-dish a table- 
 s|xM,nl'ul of brown sugar, with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of grated ginger and lemon-] >ecl, then 
 a layer of apples, and so on alternately, 
 till the dish is piled as full as it will hold. 
 The next day wet the rim of tlie dish, line 
 it with puff or tart paste, brush it with wa- 
 ter, and rover it with paste; press the edge 
 all round, notch it with a |>astc-cuticr, and 
 make a small hole with the point of a knife 
 in the middle. It may be se;isoned with 
 two tablc-s|>oonfuls of lemon or orange mar- 
 malade, pounded cinnamon, mace, and 
 cloven, in addition to tlie ginger and lemon- 
 peel. 
 
 I'll'.. \PPLE WITH Mrsr\l>KL 
 KAISIN'S. 1'eel twenty reniieting apples, 
 cut them in quarters, and then cut each quar- 
 ter into five or six pieces; toss them in a 
 pan with four ounce* of sn^ir in |x>wder, 
 (oxer which should Ix; grated the \->-\ of a 
 lemon), four ounce* of Imltcr lukewarm, 
 and four ounces of fine miiM-adel plum*. 
 Line the edge of a deep dish with a good 
 puff jxi-ie, ilu'ii put in your fruit, and 
 your di>h with a gixxl puff paste a quarter 
 of an inch iu thickness, y\n-u- wilh the white 
 of an egg, and strew >n^ar "\ei it. Let it 
 kike an h..iir in a m -derate ou-n, ami serve 
 it hot. 
 
 PIE, APKIfoT. Line a dish with puff
 
 PIE 
 
 140 
 
 PIE 
 
 |x\ste, and then put in eighteen fine apricots, 
 (cut in halves and the stones taken out,) 
 with liiur ounces of sugar in powder, and 
 four ounces of butter lukewarm. Then lay 
 on the upper crust, glaze with the white of 
 egg, and strew sifted sugar all over. Let it 
 bake in a moderate oven to a nice light col- 
 or. Serve it hot. When you wish to serve 
 it cold, you must leave out die butter. 
 
 PIE, BEEF KIDNEY. Cut some kid- 
 neys into thin slices, and place them in 
 the bottom of your pie-dish, then sweet 
 herbs chopped, such as parsley, thyme, shal- 
 lots, mushrooms, pepper, and salt; con- 
 tinue this till the dish is full, then cover the 
 whole with slices of bacon, then finish your 
 pie; bake it in the oven; when done, take 
 out the bacon, and skim off the fat ; make a 
 sauce with a glass of while wine, a tolerable 
 quantity of cullis, and reduce it to the con- 
 sistence of a good sauce, then squeeze an 
 orange in it. Serve your pie hot. 
 
 PIE, BEEF-STEAK. Cut the steaks off 
 a rump, or any nice piece of beef, fat and 
 lean together, about half an inch thick ; beat 
 them a little with a rolling-pin, put over 
 them some pepper, salt, and parboiled onion 
 minced; roll them up, and pack them neatly 
 into the dish, or lay the beef in slices; add 
 some spoonfuls of gravy, and a tea-spoonful 
 of vinegar. Cover tlie pie with a puff paste, 
 and bake it for an hour. It is a common 
 but mistaken opinion, that it is necessary 
 to put stock or water into meat pies. Beef, 
 mutton, veal, and pork, if not previously 
 dressed, will be found to yield a sufficiency 
 of gravy, and the pie will be better without 
 any additional liquid. N. B. Large oys- 
 ters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately 
 with the steaks, their liquor reduced and 
 substituted instead of the ketchup and wine, 
 will be a variety. 
 
 PIE, CHICKEN. Parboil, and then 
 cut up neatly two young chickens ; dry them ; 
 set them over a slow fire for a few minutes; 
 have ready some veal stuffing or forcemeat, 
 lay it at the 'bottom of the dish, and place in 
 die chickens upon it, and with it some pie- 
 ces of dressed ham ; cover it with |>aste. 
 Bake it from an hour and a half to two 
 hours ; when sent to table, add some good 
 gravy, well seasoned, and not too thick. 
 Duck pie is made in like manner, only sub- 
 stituting die duck stuffing instead of the veal. 
 N. B. The above may be put into a raised 
 French crust and baked ; when done, take 
 off the top, and put a ragout of sweetbread 
 to tlie chicken. 
 
 PIE, COD. Lay a fine piece of fresh 
 cod in salt for several hours, dicn wash it 
 
 well, season it with pepper, salt, nut meg and 
 mace; place it in a dish, with a little but- 
 ter and some good stock. Lay a crust over, 
 and Ijake it; when done, pour in a <;mce, 
 made as follows: a spoonful of stock, a 
 quarter of a pint of cream, flour fcnd butter, 
 grate in a little nutmeg and lemon-peel, and 
 a few oysters, boil die whole once. 
 
 PIE, COLD BEEF, VEAL, OR MUT- 
 TON. Pound in a mortar some boiled po- 
 tatoes; boil a cupful of milk, and while hot, 
 mix it with die potatoes, and beat them till 
 they become like a light paste ; roll it out, 
 cut it with a flat dish, the size of a pie dish, 
 so as it may be laid from off it upon the 
 pie; cut die meat into slices, season it widi 
 pepper and salt, put half a pint of gravy, wet 
 die edges of die dish, and put over it die 
 paste, and bake it till the paste be sufficiendy 
 done. 
 
 PIE, DEVIZES. Cut into very thin 
 slices, after being dressed, cold calPs head, 
 with some of the brains, pickled tongue, 
 sweetbreads, lamb, veal, a few slices of ba- 
 con, and hard-boiled eggs; put them in lay- 
 ers into a pie-dish, with plenty of seasoning 
 U'lween each, of cayenne, white pepper, 
 allspice, and salt; till up the dish with rich 
 gravy ; cover it \\ illi a llour and water paste ; 
 bake it in a glow oven, and when perfectly 
 cold, take off die crust, and turn die pie out 
 upon a dish; garnish it with parsley and 
 pickled eggs cut into slices. 
 
 PIE, DUCK. Scald a couple of ducks, 
 and make them very clean ; cut off the feet, 
 pinions, necks, and heads. Take out die 
 gizzards, livers, and hearts; pick all clean, 
 and scald them. Pick out the fat of the in- 
 side, lay a good puff-paste crust all o\ er the 
 dish, season die ducks both inside and out, 
 with pepper and salt, and lay them in die 
 dish, with die giblets at each end, projierlv 
 seasoned. Put in as much water as will 
 nearly fill tlie pie, lay on die crust, and let it 
 be well baked. 
 
 PIES, EGG MINCE. Boil six ej-s 
 until they are hard, shred diem small ; slued 
 double the quantity of suet; then add one 
 pound of currants picked and washed, (if 
 the eggs were large you must use more cur- 
 rants) the peel of one lemon shred very fine, 
 and die juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, 
 mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very small quantity 
 of salt, orange, lemon, and citron candied. 
 Make a light paste for diem. 
 
 PIE, FRENCH. Mince some cold roast 
 veal together with a little ham, season it 
 highly with pepper, salt, mace, and lemon- 
 jx;t.'l ; add a large table-spoonful of mush-
 
 PIE 
 
 141 
 
 PIE 
 
 room ketchup, and a quarter of a hundred 
 of oysters, with their liquor, and three or 
 four table-s|x>.iiifiils of rich gravy. Line a 
 dish with puff paste, put in the ingredients, 
 cover tlie pic, :ind let it remain in the oven 
 long enough to bake die paste. 
 
 PIE, GIBLET. Stew the gihlets in a 
 little water, with an onion stuck with two or 
 three cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, some 
 salt, and whole, pepper; cut a fowl into 
 
 joint.-, .-kn, .iini u i-li it, season it with pep- 
 per, salt, and half an onion finely minced. 
 Take out tin- union, herbs, and whole pep- 
 per; put the fowl, giblets, and gravy into a 
 dish, add a i;h-s of \\hitc wine, and two ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup; cover 
 the dish with pull' paste, and bake it for an 
 hour. 
 
 PIE, GOOSE. Prepare a very strong 
 raised cin.-t, and make the sides thick and 
 stiff. Take the bones out of a goose, tur- 
 key, and foul, cutting each down the back; 
 season them highly with pepper, salt, mace, 
 cloves, and nutmeg, all finely pounded and 
 well mixed. Lay the goose upon a dish, 
 with the breast skin next the dish; lay in 
 the turkey, put some slices of boiled ham 
 and ton.Mie, and then the fowl; cover it with 
 little bits of ham or haeon. Put it all into 
 tlie pic, made of an oval form, and the sides 
 to .-i ui'l an indi and a lialf above the meat; 
 put on the top, and make a hole in the cen- 
 tre of it. l>m-h thu outside of the pie all 
 over with the Ix-aten whites of eggs, and 
 bind it round with three folds of buttered 
 paper; paste tin- top over in the same way, 
 ami when ii comes out of the oven, take off 
 the pa|)cr, and pour in at tlie top, through a 
 funnel, u |x>nnd and a half of melted butter. 
 
 1'IK.S, LOBSTER. See Lobster. 
 
 PIE, ITALIAN. Mix together some 
 
 i-hoppcd iliMne. ; :. u -icy, and one or two sage 
 leaves, some silt, white and cayenne pep- 
 per; lay into the bottom of a dish some thin 
 slices of It MII \.-al, -pi inkle them with the 
 seasoning, ami add .-I ices of ham, and a few 
 ll ball.-; put a layer of seasoned 
 veal, .uid of ham and forcemeat balls, till the 
 di-h is full, and then add the yolks of five 
 liard-boilcd e^ys, and some good while stock ; 
 cover tlio di>h with a puff paste, and bake 
 ii tin- an hour. Uclore serving, pour in, 
 through a funnel at the centre of tlie critt, 
 a tea-cupful of rich cream. 
 
 1'll.S. MVKJUKFISH. Salt-fish pie. 
 The thick, -t part must be cliosen, ami put 
 in cold water to soak tile night U-lore want- 
 ed; then lx.il it well, take it up, lake away 
 the bones and skin, ami if it is good fish it 
 
 will be in fine Livers ; set it on a fish-drain- 
 er to get cold: In tlie meantime, boil four 
 eggs hard, pwl and slice them very thin, 
 the same quantity of onion sliced thin ; line 
 the bottom of a pie-dish with fish forcemeat,, 
 or a layer of potatoes sliced thin, then a 
 layer of onions, then of fish, and of eggs, and 
 so on till the dish is full ; season each layer 
 with a little pepper, then mix a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard, the same of essence of an- 
 chovy, a little mushroom ketchup, in a gill 
 of water, put it in the dish, then put on the 
 top an ounce of fresh butter broke in bits ; 
 cover it widi puff paste, and bake it one 
 hour. Fresh cod may be done in die same 
 way, b\ adding a little salt. All li.-h lor 
 making pies, whether soles, floun.i 
 rings, salmon, lobster, eels, trout, tench, &c. 
 should be dressed first; this is the most 
 economical way for Catholic families. 
 
 / PIES, MINCE. (1) Carefully stone and 
 cut, but not too small, one pound and a half 
 of bloom raisins; cut .-mall half a pound of 
 orange-peel, mince finely half a dozen of 
 middling-sized good apples, a quarter of a 
 pound ot'sueei almonds, pounded to a paste 
 with a little white wine, half a nutmeg grat- 
 ed, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, one 
 head of clove, and a little cinnamon pound- 
 ed ; one pound and a half of fresh beef suet, 
 finely minced, one pound of good brown su- 
 gar; mix all these ingredients extremely 
 well, and add half a pint of white wine, and 
 one glass of brandy. Pack it closely into 
 small stone jars, and tie them over with pa- 
 per. When it is to be used, add a little more 
 wine. 
 
 PIES, MINCE. (2) Cut the root off a 
 
 neat's tongue, rub the tongue well with salt, 
 let it lie four days, wash it perfectly clean, 
 and boil it till it becomes tender ; skin, and 
 when cold, chop it very finely. Mince as 
 small as possible two pounds of fresh beef 
 suet from the sirloin, stone and cut small two 
 pounds of bloom raisins, clean nicely two 
 pounds of currants, pound and sift half an 
 ounce of mace and a quarter of an ounce of 
 cloves, grate a large, nutmeg ; mix all these 
 ingredients thoroughly, together with one 
 pound and a half of good brown sugar. 
 Pack it in jars. When it is to be used, al- 
 low , for die quantity sufficient to make 
 twelve small mince pies, five finely -mi need 
 apples, tlie grated rind and juice of a large 
 lemon, and a wine-glass and a half of brandy ; 
 put into each a lew bits of citron and pre- 
 served orange-peel. Three or four whole 
 green lemons, preserved in good brown su- 
 gar, and cut into thin slices, may bo added 
 to the mince meat. 
 
 PIES, BRANDY, MINCE. Clean a
 
 P IE 
 
 142 
 
 PIE 
 
 pound of currants, mince a pound of non- 
 pareil apples, and one of fresh lieef curt ; 
 pound a pound of loaf sujrar ; \\cisrli each 
 article after being prewired; the po-1 of two 
 lemons grated, and llie juice of one ; a quar- 
 ter of a pound of citron, t he same of orange- 
 peel rninced. Mix all these ingredients 
 well with a quart of brandy. 
 
 PIES, LEMON MINCE. Weigh one 
 pound of fine large lemon*, cut them in half, 
 squeeze out the juice, and pick the pulp from 
 the skins ; boil them in water till tender, 
 and pound them in a mortar; add half a 
 pound of pounded loaf sugar, the same of 
 nicely cleaned currants, and of fresh beef 
 suet minced, a little grated nutmeg, and 
 citron cut small. Mix all tliese ingredients 
 well, and fill the patts-pans with rather more 
 of the mince than is usually put. 
 
 PIE, MUTTON OR VEAL. Cut into 
 
 chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the 
 greatest part of the fat of a loin, or best end 
 of a neck of mutton (the former the Ix-st), 
 season them, and lay them an a pie-dish, 
 with a little water and half a gill of mush- 
 room ketchup (chopped onion and poi 
 if approved) ; cover it with paste, take it 
 two hours; when done, lift up the crust from 
 die disli with a knife, pour out all the gravy, 
 let it stand, and skim it clean; add, if 
 wanted, some more seasoning ; make it boil, 
 and pour it into the pie. Veal pie may be 
 made of the brisket part of the breast ; but 
 must be parboiled first. 
 
 PIE, PIGEON OR LARK. Truss 
 half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stew- 
 ing, season them with pepper and salt ; lay 
 at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak Oi 
 about a pound weight, cut into pieces and 
 trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out with 
 a chopper: on it lay the pigeons, the \olks 
 of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of broth 
 or water, and over these a layer of steaks; 
 wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over 
 with puflT paste, or the paste as directed for 
 seasoned pies; wash it over with yolk of 
 egg, and ornament it with leaves of paste and 
 tlie feet of the pigeons; bake it an hour and 
 a half in a moderate-heated oven: before it 
 is sent to table make an aperture in the lop, 
 and pour in some good gravy quite hot. 
 
 PIE, RAISED PORK. Make a rais- 
 ed crust, of a good size, about four inches 
 high ; take die rind and chine bone from -i 
 loin of pork, cut it into chops, beat them 
 widi a chopper, season diem with |x-p|>er 
 and salt, ami till your pie; put on the top 
 and close 'it, and pinch it round theedije; 
 rub it over widi yolk of egg, and bake it t \vo 
 hours \vidi a paper over it, to prevent the 
 
 ciust from burning. When done, pour in 
 some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed 
 mustard (if approved). N. B. As the 
 alioxc is generally eaten cold, it is an excd- 
 lent repast for a journey, and will keep for 
 several days. 
 
 PIE, POTATO. Peel and slice your 
 potatoes very thin into a pie-dish; between 
 each layer of potatoes put a little chopped 
 onion (three-quarters of an ounce of onion is 
 
 sufficient f> >r a pound of potatws) ; Ijetween 
 each layer sprinkle a little pepper and salt; 
 put in a little water, and cut about two 
 ounces of fresh butter into litlle bits, and lay 
 them on the top: cover it close with puff 
 paste. It will take about an hour and a half 
 to bake it. N. 15. The yolks of tour eggs 
 (boiled hard) may lie added; and when 
 baked, a table-spoonful of good mushroom 
 ketchup |)Oiired in throuuh a funnel. Obs. 
 Cauliflowers divided into inouthfuls, and 
 button onions, seasoned with curry-powder, 
 &c. make a favorite vegetable pie. 
 
 PIES, RAISED, MUTTON OR 
 PORK. Put two pounds and a half of (lour 
 on tlie paste-board; and put on the lire, in a 
 .-aacepan, diree-quarten of a pint of water, 
 and half a pound of good lard; when the 
 water boils, make a hole in the middle of 
 the flour, pour in the water and lard by de- 
 grees, gently mixing the (lour with it with 
 a spoon; and when it is well mixed, then 
 knead it with your hands till it become-; stiff: 
 dredi-'e a little tlour to prevent its slicking to 
 die Uiiiid, or you cannot make it look smooth: 
 do not roll it with the rolliug-pin, but roll it 
 with your hands, about the thickness of a 
 quart |>ot; cut it into six piece.-, leaung a 
 little for the co\ers; put one hand in die 
 middle, and keep the other close on the out- 
 side lill \oii ha\e worked it either in an oval 
 or a round shape: have your meat ready cut, 
 
 Bed with pepper and oah : if pork, 
 cut in .small slices; the ^riskin i:- 
 for pasties: if \ou use mutton, cut it in very 
 neat cutlets, and put them in the pi 
 make, them; roll out the covers with the 
 rolling-pin just the si/e of the pie. wet it 
 round the ed^o, put it on the pie, and press 
 
 r w ilh your thumb and linger, and 
 then cut it all round with a pair ol 
 quite even, and pinch them inside and out, 
 and bake them an hour and a half. 
 
 PIE, RAISED FRENCH. Make 
 alxjui two pounds of flour in to a paste; knead 
 it well, and into die shajx; of a ball ; press 
 your thumb into die centre, ami work it by 
 degrees into any sha|>e (oval or round is the 
 most general), till about five inches high; 
 put it on a sheet of paper, and till it w ith 
 coarse flour or bran; roll out a covering for
 
 PIE 
 
 143 
 
 PIG 
 
 it alxiut the same thickness as the sides; ce- 
 ment its sides with the yolk of egg; cut the 
 edges quite even, and pinch it round with the 
 finger and thumb, nib yolk of egSniver it with 
 a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way 
 
 fancy may diivi-t, with the sa kind of 
 
 paste. Bake it of ;i fine brown color, in a 
 slow oven; and vvh< n dune, cut out the top, 
 'remove the tlonr or bran, brush it quite 
 clean, and till it up with a fricassee of chick- 
 in, rabbit, or any other entree, most conve- 
 nient. Send it to table with a napkin under. 
 
 IMF.. 11 \M KMSKI). Soak a small 
 ham tour or live hour.-; \\a.-h:tnd MTa|ie it 
 well ; rut off the kniK-kle. and boil it for 
 hall" an hour; then take it up and (rim it very 
 neatly; tr.ke off the rind and put it into an 
 oval .-ie pan, uiih a pint of .Madeira or 
 Sheri-y, and enough veal stock to cover it. 
 I>et it stew for two hours, or till three pails 
 done; take it out anil set it in a cold 
 place; then rai<e a ern-t :is in the foregoing 
 _:li to receive it; put in 
 the ham, and round it th" veal tcirceiueat ; 
 rover and ornament ; it will take about an 
 hour and a half to buke in a slow oven: 
 when done, take off the cover, glaze the top, 
 and )><iur round the following sauce, viz. take 
 the liquor the ham wa- stewed in; skim it 
 "in tin ; thicken with a little flour and 
 butter mixed t'^r, (her; a few drops of brown- 
 ing, and some cayenne pep|>er. 
 
 I'll'.. ST. \. Skin and cut into joints a 
 large fowl; wash and lay it into cold water 
 for an hour; cut some -all bi-ef into thin 
 . and if it is very .-alt, soak it a short 
 time m water; make a pa-<te of (lour and 
 butter in the proportion of half a pound of 
 
 butler t e of tloitr, cut it into round pieced 
 
 iinu' to the f\tf of the Ixtltom of the 
 
 pot in which the pie is to be stewed; rub 
 
 with butter tlie Ixittom of a round iron pot, 
 
 and lay in a layer of the beef, seasoned with 
 
 pepper, and finely-minced onion; then put a 
 
 layer of tin- paste, and then the (owl, highly 
 
 rh pe|>|(er, onion, and a little 
 
 salt; add another liver of paste, and |ur 
 
 in three piuis (,f e,,|d water; cover the |>ol 
 
 . ','cnily lor nearly four 
 
 king care it does not burn, which, 
 
 to do. It is served in 
 
 a pudding dish, and answers well tor a family 
 dinner. 
 
 I'M". >K DEVONSIIIUK. 
 
 Take a i inn-apples, pare, core, 
 
 them; chop -nine onion-; very 
 small; li.ic a deep dish with paste, put in a 
 \\ a little ni'^ar, and 
 some ,,t the i M ip|ied onions over them; sea- 
 son them, and lay lean mutton chops, also 
 seasoned, more onions, then the apples, &c. 
 
 as before, and so on till the dish is quite 
 full ; cover, and bake the pie. 
 
 PIE, SUUASH. One pint of squash, 
 stewed and strained ; one pint of milk, and 
 \ one of cream ; ten eggs ; half teacup of rose- 
 water; quarter pound of sugar, and one 
 grated nutmeg. Bake in plates lined with 
 putt" paste. 
 
 PIE, SWEETBREAD. Parboil fire 
 or -i\ .-weetbreads ; cut them into two or 
 three pieces, stew them ten or fifteen minutes 
 in a little white stock, with some chopped 
 shallot, a bit of butter rolled in flour, some 
 salt, and white pepper, and a good many 
 mushrooms. Put them into a pie-dish, with 
 some asparagus to|>s, forcemeat balls, and 
 hard-lxiiled yolks of eggs, and slices of fat 
 bacon on tlie top; cover it, and bake it till 
 the |>aste be done enough ; or it may be put 
 into a vol-aii-vent, and served upon a nap- 
 kin ; or baked in a plate. 
 
 PIE, VEGETABLE. Of a variety of 
 
 vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, pota- 
 j toes, artichoke bottoms, cauliflower, French 
 IM-HIIS, peas, and small button onions, equal 
 quantities of each; half boil them in good 
 broth for a short time, put them into a pie 
 dish, cover it with puff paste, and bake it in 
 a slow oven ; make a gravy of a bit of veal, 
 a slice of ham , pepper, salt, a bay leaf, mush- 
 looms, shallots, |i;ir.-lev,and an onion; when 
 it has boiled thick, strain the liquor, and mix 
 in three or four table-spoonfuls of cream, and 
 pour it into the pie Ixjfore being served. The 
 cream may be omitted. 
 
 PIG, Is in prime order for the spit when 
 alxnit three weeks old. 
 
 It loses |>art of it* goodness every hour af- 
 ter it is killed ; if not quite fresh, no art can 
 make the crackling crisp. 
 
 To be in perfection, it should be killed in 
 the morning to be eaten at dinner: it requires 
 very careful toasting. A sucking-pig, like 
 a young child, must not be left for an in- 
 stant. 
 
 The ends must have much more fire than 
 the middle: for this pur|>osc is contrived an 
 iron to hang before the middle pait, called a 
 pig-iron. If you have not this, use a com- 
 mon flat iron, or keep the fire fiercest at the 
 two ends. 
 
 For tlie stuffing, take of the crumb of a 
 stale loaf about five ounces; rub it through a 
 colander; mince fine a handful of sage (t. e. 
 about two ounces), and a large onion (about 
 an ounce and a half). Mix these together 
 with an egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit 
 of butter as big as an egg. Fill the belly of 
 tlie pig with this, and sew it up: lay it to 
 the tire, and Uiste it with salad oil till it is
 
 PIG 
 
 144 
 
 PIG 
 
 quite done. Do not leave it a moment: it 
 requires the mos* vigilant attendance. 
 
 Roast it at a clear, brisk fire at some dis- 
 tance. To gain the praise of epicurean pig- 
 eaters, the crackling must be nicely crisped 
 and delicately lightly browned, without be- 
 ing either blistered or burnt. 
 
 A small, three weeks old pig will be done 
 enough in about an hour and a half. 
 
 Before you take it from the fire, cut off the 
 head, and part that and the body down the 
 middle: chop the brains \fcry fine, with some 
 boiled sage leaves, and mix them with good 
 veal gravy, or beef gravy, or what runs from 
 the pig when ^-ou cut its head off. Send up 
 a tureenful of gravy besides. Currant sauce 
 is still a favorite with some of the old school. 
 
 Lay your pig Ijack to l>ack in the dish, 
 with one half of the head on each side, and 
 die ears one at each end, which you must 
 take care to make nice and crisp; or you 
 will get scolded, and deservedly, as the silly 
 fellow was who Ixnight his wife a pig with 
 only one ear. 
 
 When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the 
 skin long round the ends of the legs. When 
 you first lay the pig before the fire, rub it all 
 over with fresh butter or salad oil: ten 
 minutes after, and the skin looks dry; 
 dredge it well with flour all over, let it re- 
 main on an hour, then rub it off with a soft 
 cloth. 
 
 N. B. A pig is a very troublesome subject 
 to roast; most persons have them baked. 
 Send a quarter of a pound of butter, and beg 
 the baker to baste it well. 
 
 PIG, BAKED. Lay your pig in a dish, 
 flour it well all over, then rub it over with 
 butter; butter the dish you lay it in, and put 
 it into die oven. When done enough, take 
 it out, and rub it over with a butter cloth ; 
 dien put it again into the oven till it is dry, 
 then take it out and lay it in a dish; cut it 
 up, take a little veal gravv, and take off die 
 fat in the dish it was baked in, and there 
 will lie some good gravy at the bottom; put 
 that to the veal gravy, with a little bit of but- 
 ter, rolled in flour; lx>il it up, and put it in 
 a dish in which the pig has been laid, and 
 put the brains with some sage into the belly. 
 Some persons like a pig to be brought to 
 table whole, in which case you are only to 
 put what sauce you like into the dish. 
 
 PIG, BARBICUED. Scald, &c., a pig, 
 of about nine or ten weeks old, the same as 
 for roasting; make a stuffing widi a few 
 eage-leaves, the liver of the pig, and two an- 
 chovies boned, washed, and cut extremely 
 small ; put them into a mortar, with some 
 bread-Crumby a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 a very little cayenne pepper, and half a pint 
 of Madeira wine; beat diem to a paste, and 
 
 sew it up in the pig ; lay it at a good distance 
 before a large brisk fin;; sin^c it well; put 
 two bottles of Madeira wine into die drip- 
 ping-pan, and keep testing it all the time it 
 is roasting; when half done, put two French 
 rolls into die drippingpan ; and if there is not 
 wine enough in the drippugpon, add more: 
 when the pig is nearly done, take the rolls 
 and sauce, and put them into a saucepan, 
 with an anchovy cut small, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and die juice of a lemon ; take up die 
 pig, send it to table with an apple in its 
 mouth, and a roll on each side ; then strain 
 the sauce over it. 
 
 Some barbicue a pig of six or seven weeks 
 old, and stick it all over with blanched al- 
 monds, and baste it in the same manner widi 
 Madeira wine. 
 
 PIG, TO COLLAR. Cut off the feet, 
 head, and tail; bone and wash it well, and 
 dry it in a cloth. Season it highly with a 
 quantity of pepper and sail ; roll it up firmly, 
 and bind it with a piece of linen; sew it 
 tightly. Put it on in boiling water, with the 
 bones, let it boil for an hour, dien put it un- 
 der a weight to press till it be cold, and take 
 off the cloth. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, TO COLLAR. Strew 
 
 over a pig's face, and a neat's or pii's tongue, 
 a little salt and saltpetre; let it stand eight 
 or nine days, then Iwil them with two cow- 
 heels, till all be sufficiently tender to admit 
 of the bones being taken out ; lay upon a 
 dish a piece of strong cloth, put the cheek 
 upon it with die rind downwards ; season it 
 highly with pepper, cloves, and a little salt; 
 add the tongue and cow-heels, with more 
 seasoning; roll and sew it up firmly, (Hit it 
 into a jar and boil it for two hours, then 
 press it widi a homy weight, and when cold 
 take off the cloth. The cow-had may be 
 omitted, and bodi cheeks used. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, TO CURE. Strew 
 
 salt over it, and let it lie two or three days, 
 then pour over it die following mixture when 
 it is cold; half a pound of ba\ salt, half an 
 ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of a \tound of 
 coarse brown sugar, one handful of common 
 salt, and a penny-worth of cochineal, boiled 
 in a pint of strong beer or porter; let it lie 
 in die pickle a fortnight, turning it daily, 
 dien hang it to smoke for a week. Wlien 
 to be dressed, put it into lukewarm water to 
 soak for a night, and in dressing it, follow 
 the directions given for boiling hams. 
 
 PIG'S FEET AND EARS PICKLED. 
 Wash the feet and ears \ery clean, and be- 
 tween every foot put a bay-leaf; when diey 
 arc well soaked, add some cloves, mace, co- 
 riander-seed, and ginger; put a botde of
 
 PIG 
 
 145 
 
 PIG 
 
 white wine to three pair of feet and ears, 
 some hay-leaves, a biinch of sweet herbs; 
 let them boil gentry lilt tin 'van; tender, llicn 
 take them out of the liquor, lay them in an 
 earthen pan ; when cold, lake oil' the fat, 
 and strain the liquor over them. Ti 
 well cold, or wanned in the jelly, thickened 
 with butter rolled in llonr; or take the feet and 
 
 ;it of the jellv,dip them in \"lk 
 and then in er mule of tread, and broil tliein, 
 or fry tlii-ni in butter; lay the ears in the 
 middle, and the feet round: or ragout them. 
 
 I'Hi'S IT.KT AND KAKS SOUSED. 
 
 Clean tli, in, and l*iil them till they are ten- 
 der; then split the feet, and put them and 
 the ears in salt and water. When you use 
 them, dry them well in a cloth, dip them in 
 batter, fry them, and ^end them to table with 
 melted butler in a Imat. They may Ix- eaten 
 cold, and will keep a considerable lime. 
 
 PI< J 'S FEET, TO STEW, ("lean them 
 well, and Ixiil them (ill they are tender. 
 Brown some butter with tlonr, and add it to 
 a quaitMH of _;ra\y or water Millicir.it to 
 die feet in. Season with a minced 
 onion, thret -.dt, anil black |x-p- 
 
 per. Cut the li-et iii twi, add them, and 
 cover the pan close I \ ; let them stew half an 
 lionr. A little liflon- ser\ in^, mix in half 
 a tabie-*pOOnfill of lemon pickle or vinegar, 
 and pick out the sage leaves. 
 
 Plf/SII \KSI.KT. (1) I'arlx.il the liver 
 and lights, slice and fry them along with thin 
 bits of ba'-,,n. (iarnish with fried par-ley. 
 
 riC'S II \KSI.ET. (2) Wash and dry 
 
 pome h ids, and some tat and 
 
 ik, Ix-atin^ lie- latter with 
 
 a rolling-pin to make them lend, i 
 
 with |x-pper. <.i\t, and sa,'e, and a little onion 
 
 fine; wln-n mixed, put all into a 
 
 e-awl, and laslen it tight with a needle and 
 
 id rua-t il by a jack, or by a !-lrin^. 
 
 lice*, x\ idi par-ley, fora fry. 
 
 : :h a sauce of 1'ort wine and water, 
 
 and ni'i.-tard, jnst boiled up, and jwit it into 
 
 a dish. 
 
 I'l'.S 11K\I) COLLARED. Very 
 
 ur the head and ears; take off tin- 
 
 hair and snmit. and take out the eyes and 
 
 brain; let it la\ for OIK- niifht in water ; then 
 
 drain it; -alt it i xlremcly well, with com- 
 
 dlpetre, ami let it I 
 
 day-. ('.nil it suhVienlly in take out the 
 Ixjiifv. ; then lay it on a dresser, turning the 
 thick end ..I'OIIP side of the head toward- ilu- 
 thick end "filii- other, to make the roll of an 
 eqinl gizi : M inkle it well with 
 I it with ihe 
 if you think proper, put the iii^'s feel round 
 
 tlie outside, when boned, or the thin parts 
 of a couple of cow-heels. Put it into a cloth, 
 bind with a broad ta|>e, a 1 I Ixiil it till quite 
 tender; then put it under a weight, and do 
 not take off the covering uufd it is quite cold. 
 If you wi-h it to be more like brawn, salt it 
 . and let the proportion of saltpetre be 
 r, and put in also some pieces of lean 
 |xirk, and then cover it with cow-heel, to 
 Icxik likethi-hc.nl. This may lx- kept either 
 in or out of pickle of salt and water, boiled 
 with vinegar. If likely to s|xiil, slice and fry 
 it, either with or without tetter. 
 
 I'Ki'S HEAD, TO POT. Split tlie 
 
 head of a small pig, take out the brains, cut 
 off the ear?, ami let it lie in cold water for 
 one day, then boil it till all tlie bones come 
 out; take off the skin, keeping it as whole 
 as pns-ible. Chop the tongue and all the 
 meat while it is hot ; season it highly with 
 pep|x-r. salt, and nutmeg; place |>art of the 
 skin at the bottom of a potting-pan or bowl, 
 lay in the chopped meat, and put the rest i.f 
 the skill over the top; press it down hard, 
 place a small plate upon it, put on that a 
 hea\y weight, which must not be taken off 
 (ill it Ix- (x-rfectly cold. Boil up part of tlie 
 liquor with some vinegar and salt, and keep 
 the head in this pickle. It may be served 
 tor breakfast or luncheon, and is eaten with 
 \ ine^ar and mustard. 
 
 PUTS I1K\I) \\DFEET, SOUSED. 
 Clean them extremelv well and boil them; 
 take tin- sauce part of the liquor, and add 
 \ inegar, lime or lemon juice, salt, cayenne, 
 and |M-p|M-r; put in, either cut down or 
 whole, the head and |i-et ; Ixjil all together 
 f >r an hour, and pour it into a deep dish. 
 It ia eaten cold with mn.-tard and vinegar. 
 
 I'KJ'S KIDNEYS, AND SKIRTS. 
 
 Clean and wash them very nicely, cut the 
 kidneys across, and the skirts into small 
 square bits; fry them a light brown in beef 
 dripping, brown a bit of bulter the size of a 
 walnut, with a little tlour, and add as much 
 Ixiiling water as may Ix- required of gravy, 
 and .in onion minced small. Add the meat, 
 a little |x-p|x-r, sail, and mushroom ketchup, 
 and let it stew till tender. 
 
 l'ir;EO.\S. Pigeons should !>e extreme- 
 ly fresh; when so, and in good order, they 
 are plump anil fat at the vent, and their feet 
 pliable; but when they are stale, the vent in 
 "!-n. ^rei-n, and withered. Tame pigeons 
 are considered preferable to tlie wild. 
 
 PIGEONS WHOLE, TO BROIL. 
 
 hem wi-ll. cutoff the wingsand neck, 
 leaving skin enough at the neck to tie; make 
 a forcemeat with bread crumbs, three or iota
 
 PIG 
 
 146 
 
 PIK 
 
 of the livers, one anchovy, some parsley 
 minced, and a quarter of a pound of butler; 
 season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, 
 bind it with the yolk of an eg:> beaten up, and 
 put into each pigeon a piece tlie size of a large 
 walnut; tie the neck and rump, rub them 
 with butler, and dust them with pep|>er, salt, 
 and nutmeg mixed ; broil them over a slow 
 fire ; to baste them, put them upon a plate, 
 and with a feather brash them over with but- 
 ter; broil them of a nice brown color; serve 
 them with melted butter and parsley, or a 
 thickened brown gravy. 
 
 PIGEON PIE. Chop some parsley and 
 lemon thyme, with a few mushrooms; stew 
 these in a little butler, into which put half a 
 dozen young pigeons, with pepper and salt 
 in their insides, and their legs turned in; 
 stew them for a few minutes and turn them; 
 when they begin to fry, put in sufficient con- 
 somme to cover them, in which let them stew 
 till they are well done; take them from the 
 fire to cool ; in the meantime make a good 
 puff paste, part of which roll out, and place 
 round the edge of a dish; lay the pigeons in 
 with the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, and 
 pour over them half of llie liquor lliev were 
 stewed in; add a little pepper and salt, then 
 lay on the top paste, trimming it neatly 
 round, the same as you would any other pie ; 
 on the top form a star of leaves, with a hole 
 in the centre ; eg, r it lightly over, and put it 
 to bake in a moderate oven, taking care that 
 it has not too much color ; when done, add 
 to the liquor that remained from the pigeons, 
 a little butter sauce, make it very hot, and 
 [xwr it on the pie. Serve it hot, either for 
 a remove or side dish. 
 
 PIGEONS WITH RICE AND PAR- 
 
 M F.SAN CHEESE. Pick and wash clean 
 half a dozen nice pigeons, cut them into quar- 
 ters; brown some butter with flour, add to 
 it a pint of good stock, with three grated 
 onions, some pepper and salt, stew the pig- 
 eons in this till tender, take them out and 
 mix in the juice of one lemon, Ixiii and strain 
 the sauce over the pigeons. Boil about three- 
 quarters of a pound of whole rice in a pint 
 and a half of stock, with half a pound of fresh 
 butler, some graled nutmeg anil salt; when 
 it is lender, add two liandfuls of grated 1'ar- 
 incsan cheese. Put more than Irilf of the 
 vice equally round the dish in \\ hich the pig- 
 eons are placed, and cover them with what 
 remains, brush it over with a well-beaten 
 egg, and then strew it thickly with more 
 I'anuesan ; <o\er a flat baking-tin with salt, 
 place the dish upon this, and bake it for nearly 
 three-quarters of an hour in a slow oven ; ii 
 should be of a fine gold color. 
 
 PIGEONS, TO ROAST. Pick, clean, 
 
 singe, and wash them well ; truss them with 
 three feet on, and put into them some pepper 
 and salt. While roasting, baste them with 
 butter. A litlle before serving, dust them 
 with flour, and froth them with butter. 
 Roast them for half an hour. Serve them 
 with parsley and butter in the dish, or make 
 a gravy of die giblets, some minced parsley, 
 seasoned with |>ep|>cr and salt. Thicken 
 with a little flou;- and butter; pour it with 
 the giblets into the dish, and then put in the 
 pigeons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEW. (1) Clean them nice- 
 ly, truss them as for lulling, put into their in- 
 side some pepper and salt ; brown in a sauce- 
 pan three ounces of butter with u table-spoon- 
 ful of (lour, add as much gravy or water as will 
 nearly cover the pigeons, put them in with 
 the livers, gizzards, and pinions, salt, and 
 some minced par.-lev, spinach may also be 
 added; let them stew for three-quarter* of 
 an hour; add, a few minutes before serving, 
 the yolks of Jour or six hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEW. (2) Wash and clean 
 six pigeons, cut them into quarters, and put 
 all their giblets with tliem into a stewpan, a 
 piece of butter, a litlle water, a bit of lemon- 
 |K j el, two blades of mace, some chopped pars- 
 ley, salt, and pepper; cover tlie pan closely, 
 and stew them till they lie tender; thicken 
 the sauce with the yolk of an egg beaten up 
 with three table-spoonfuls of cream and a bit 
 of butter dusted with (lour; let them slew 
 ten minutes lunger before serving. 
 
 PIKE, BAKED. Scrape the scales off 
 a large pike, take out the gills, and clean it, 
 without breaking die skin; stuff llie tish 
 with a forcemeat made of two liandfuls of 
 grated bread, one of finely-minced suet, some 
 chop|>ed parslev, and a little fresh Initter, 
 sc-asoued uitli j.epper, sail, mace, grated 
 lemon-peel and a nutmeg, pounded all togeth- 
 er m a mortar, with two whole r jgg. Fasten 
 llie tail of tlie |>ikc into its month with a 
 skewer, then dip it, first into a well-beaten 
 egg, and then into grated Ixvad, which repeat 
 twice; baste it over with butter, and bake 
 it in an o\eu. 
 
 If two <>f them are to l>e served, make one 
 of them of a green color, by mixing a quan- 
 tity of finely-minced parsley with the grated 
 bread. When the fish is of a fine brown 
 color, cover it with paper until it is done. 
 Serve with a Dutch sauce in a sauce-tureeu. 
 
 PIKE, BOILED. Wash clean, and 
 takeout the gills; stuff them with the follow- 
 ing forcemeat : equal parts of chopped oys- 
 ters, grated bread crumbs, Ijeefsuet, or butter, 
 two anchovies, a little onion, pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg, minced parsley, sweet marjoram,
 
 POI 
 
 147 
 
 FOR 
 
 thyme, and savory ; an egg to bind it. Stuff 
 the ins ides, and sew them up; put them on 
 in boiling salt-and-water, with a gl < 
 egar, and let them !x>il half an hour. Sauces ; 
 oyster, and meluM butter. Tliey may 
 also be broiled. 
 
 P1LI.AU, TO MAKE. \Vash very 
 clean two pounds of rioe, stew it till per- 
 fectly tender with a little water, half a 
 pound of butter, some salt, whole pepper, 
 cloves and mace, and keep the ste\\|>an 
 closely covered; boil two fowls and one 
 poood and a lialf of bacon, put the bacon in 
 the middle, and the fowls on eacli side, cov- 
 er them all over with the rice, and garnish 
 with hard-boiled eggs and fried whole 
 onions. 
 
 PLOVERS, TO CHOOSE. Choose 
 
 them by the hardness of the vent, which 
 
 show* .that they are fat; and when new, 
 
 limber-footed. In other respects, 
 
 choose them by the same marks as other 
 
 There are three sorts; the gray, 
 
 green, and bastard plover or lapwing. 
 
 PLOVERS, TO DRESS. Green plov- 
 ers should ta dressed the same as wood- 
 corks, without drawing, and served on a 
 toast Gray plovers should be stewed. 
 Make a f'irceiiieat with the yolks of two 
 - bruised, some marrow cut fine, 
 artichoke bottOM cut small, and sweet 
 1 with |x-p|xT, salt, and nut- 
 <tf the birds, and put them into a 
 saucepan, \\ilh ju-t a sufficient <|iiaii(ily of 
 good gravy to cover them, OIK; glass of 
 white wine, and a blade of mace; Cover 
 them clo-e, and let them MC\V \> 
 
 fa up the plov- 
 
 ihein ill a dish, keep tllem hot; put 
 
 f butter rolled in Hour, to thicken 
 
 -. let it boil till smooth; squeeze 
 
 into it a little- lemon; skim it, and pom- it 
 
 o\er the plo\ 
 
 POINT DE JOUR FRITTERS. Mix ( 
 
 with two handfhls of Hour a u'lasa of sweet | 
 wine, a tal.le |:,,,.nfnl of brandy, and warm 
 milk, sufficient to make il into a |iu.-tc; add 
 I'M- well-lieateii whiles of four e<,'!fn, a little 
 minced citron, candied orange-peel or cur- 
 it well together, and drop it 
 through a wide tin funnel, into lxiiliii<r lard. 
 Serve willi pounded loaf sn.'ar ,-trewcd ou-r 
 them. 
 
 I'<>|\ KU>K. i' llt int.. a newpan a 
 large bunch of parsle\-li-;i\.-. -.,1,1.. scallion-, 
 iv-leave-, a little thyme, a dessert- 
 spoonful of tine white |x-;>|'i, a i 
 vinegar, and a small quantity of hntier; pet 
 the pan on tli- lire, and n-diice thy whole 
 
 I ill nearly all gone, when add two ladlcfuls 
 of etpagnole, and one of stock; reduce 
 im to the proper consistence, and 
 strain it lor use. 
 
 PORK. DAIRY-FED pork is the !x-<: ; 
 the flesh should look white and smooth, and 
 the fat IK- while and line. In preparing a 
 hog for bacon, the rilis are cut, with a very 
 little flesh on them, from die side, which 
 has the fore and hind leg attached to it; 
 the bind leg is tlx-n called a gammon of ba- 
 con, but il is generally reserved for a ham. 
 On each side there is a la rife spare rib, 
 which is usually divided into two, one call- 
 ed the sweet bone, the oilier the blade Ume. 
 There are also grukins, chine, or back 
 bone. 
 
 Hog's lard is the inner fat of the bacon 
 hog. 
 
 Porkers are not s-) old a? hogs; they 
 make excellent pickled pork, but are cho- 
 sen more particularly lor roasting. 
 
 To roa-it a le^r, a saiall onion is minced 
 together with three sage leaves, - 
 with |X'p|K!r and salt, and put under the 
 skin at the knuckle Ixmc; the skin is cut 
 into stri| nearly half an inch apart, and 
 rubbed over with a bit of butter. If weigh- 
 ing seven or eight pounds, it will require 
 nearly three hours to roast. 
 
 A spare rib should be roasted, is basted 
 with butter, and baa sage leaves dried, nib- 
 bed to a powder, and mixed with salt and 
 pepper, sprinkled over it. 
 
 Both a loin and neck are jointed, the 
 skin scored in narrow strips, and inhbed 
 with butter. If wei^him; HX - 
 fxmnds, it will require rather more than two 
 hours to ron.->t. 
 
 A griskin may be either broiled 
 ed. 
 
 A chine is smiled here and there ni;h 
 bread crumbs, mixed UH|I a liltlc butter, 
 and Masoned with some linely shred ML'C, 
 jKir.-ley, and lh\me, >..me j-epper and salt. 
 The skin is cut into strips and nibbed with 
 butter; it is then roasted, and served with 
 apple sauce, as are also the preceding 
 roaaU. 
 
 A porker's head H ctitfled like a sticking 
 pig, sewed (irmly, and huntf on a string to 
 
 Tte shoulder may be roasted, but, being 
 
 very lal, it is generally preferred pickled. 
 
 The breast may 1; made into a pi", or 
 broiled. 
 
 To l>oil hams, they should be put on in 
 water, the chill taken off, and simmered for 
 four or live hours, taking care not to allow 
 them lo boil. 
 
 The prime season for pork is from No- 
 vemU r to .March. 
 
 Take particular care it be done enough:
 
 P OR 
 
 148 
 
 FOR 
 
 other meats under-done are unpleasant, but 
 pork is absolutely uneatable; the sight of it 
 is enough to appal the sharpest appetite, if 
 its gravy has the least tint of redness. 
 
 Be careful of the crackling; if this be 
 not crisp, or if it l>e burned, you will Ite 
 scolded. Pickled Pork, takes Ynore time 
 than any other meat. If you buy your pork 
 ready salted, ask how many days it lias 
 been in salt; if m:Mi\, it will require to be 
 soaked in water for six hours before you 
 dress it. When you cook it, wash ami 
 scrape it as clean as possible; when deli- 
 cately dressed, it is a favorite dish with al- 
 most everylx>dy. Take care it does not 
 boil fast ; "if it does, the knuckle will break 
 to pieces, before the thick part of the meat 
 is warm through; a \t~ of seven pounds 
 lakes three hours and a half Aery slow sim- 
 mering. Skim your pot very carefully, and 
 when you take the meat out of the boiler, 
 scrape it clean. 
 
 \ leg of nice jxirk, nicely salted, and 
 nicely boiled, is as fine a cold relish as cold 
 ham; esjiecially if, instead of cutting into 
 the middle when hot, and so letting out 
 it* juices, you cut it at the knuckle: slices 
 broiled are a good luncheon, or supper. 
 
 Mem. Some |x?rsoMs who sell pork ready 
 sailed have a sillv trick of cutting the knuc- 
 kle in two; we sup|xise that this is done to 
 s.i.'e their salt; brt it lets all the gravy out 
 of the leg; and unless you boil your pork 
 iMorely for the sake of the pot-liquor, which 
 in this case receives all the goodness and 
 strength of the meat, friendly reader, your 
 oracle cautions you to buy no leg of pork 
 v.-hich is slit at the knuckle. 
 
 1 1" pork is not done enough, nothing is more 
 disagreeable; if too much, it not only loses 
 'us color and flavor, but its substance be- 
 comes soft like a jelly. 
 
 It must never apjx-arat table without pars- 
 nips; they are an excellent vegetable, and 
 deserve to be much more popular; or carrots, 
 turnips, and greens, or mashed potatoes, &c. 
 
 Obs. Remember not to forget the mus- 
 t,ird-|x>t. 
 
 PORK, LEG, Of eight pounds, will re- 
 quire about three hours : score tlie sk ins across 
 in narrow stri|>cs (some score it in dia- 
 monds), about a quarter of an inch apart; 
 stuff the knuckle with sage and onion, minced 
 fine, and a little grated bread, seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and the yolk of an egg. 
 
 Do not put it too near the fire : rub a little 
 sweet oil on the skin with a paste-brush, or 
 a goose-feather: this makes the crackling 
 crisper and browner than basting it with 
 dripping; and it will be a better color than 
 all the art of cookery can make it in any 
 other way ; mid this is die best way of pre- i 
 
 venting the skin from blistering, which is 
 principally occasioned by its being put too 
 near the fire. 
 
 PORK Spare Rib, Usually weighs about 
 eight or nine pounds, and will take from two 
 to three hours to roast it thoroughly ; not ex- 
 actly according to its weight, but the thick- 
 ness of the meat upon it which varies very 
 much. Lay the thick end nearest to the 
 fire. 
 
 A. proper bald spare rib of eight pounds 
 weight (so called because almost all the meat 
 is pared off), with a steady fire, will be done 
 in an hour and a quarter. There is so little 
 meat on a bald spare rib, that if yon have a 
 large, fierce fire, it will be burned Itelorc it 
 is warm through. Joint it nicely, and crack 
 the ribs across as you do ribs of lamb. 
 
 When you put it down to roast, dust on 
 some flour, and baste it with a little butter ; 
 dry a dozen sage leaves, and rub them thr< >u;;li 
 a hair-sieve, and put them into the t<>|> of a 
 dredging-box ; and about a quarter of an hour 
 before die meat is done, baste it with butter ; 
 dust with the pulverized sage. 
 
 Obs. Make it a general rule never to 
 pour gravy over any thing that is roasted; 
 1;>y so doing, the dredging, &c. is wasljcd off, 
 and it eats insipid. 
 
 Some jx-ople cane a spare rib by cutting 
 out in slices the thick part at the bottom of 
 the bones. When this meat is cut away, 
 tlie bones may be easily separated, and are 
 esteemed verv sweet picking. 
 
 Apple sauce, mashed potatoes, and good 
 mustard are indispensable. 
 
 PORK CHEESE. Choose tlie head of 
 a small pig which may weiijli about twelv 
 pounds the quarter. Sprinkle over it and 
 the tongues of four pigs, a little common salt 
 and a very little saltpetre. Let them lie 
 linn- days, wash them, and tie them in a clean 
 cloth; boil them until the bones will come 
 easily out of the head, take off the .-kin as 
 \\liole as possible, place a bowl in hot water 
 and put in the licad, cutting it into small 
 pieces. In the bottom of a round tin, shaped 
 like a small cheese, lay two strips of cloth 
 across each other, they must be loiiif eiiouuli 
 to fold over the top when tlie shape is full, 
 place the skin round the tin, and nearly half 
 fill it with the meat, which has Ixt-n highly 
 seasoned with pepper, cayenne and salt ; put 
 in some tongue cut into slices, then the rest of 
 the meat and the remainder of the tongue, 
 draw the cloth tightly across the top; put on 
 it a board or a plate that will lit into the sha|x>, 
 and place on it a heavy weight, which must 
 not be taken off till it be quite cold. It is 
 eaten with vinegar and mustard, and served 
 for luncheon or supper.
 
 POT 
 
 149 
 
 POT 
 
 POTATOES. The vegetable kingdom 
 affords no food more wholesome, more easily 
 procured, easily prepared, or less ex|xMisive, 
 than the potato : yet. although this most useful 
 vegetable is dressed almost every day, in 
 almost . \crv family, for one plate of |>otat<x-s 
 that c< Hues' to table as it should come, ten are 
 spoiled. 
 
 Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, 
 
 unles.- they are very large. Fill a saucepan 
 
 half full of potatoes of equal size (or make 
 
 them so bv dividin? the laix'er ones), put to 
 
 them as much colil water as will cover them 
 
 abonl an inch: they are sooner lioiled, ami 
 
 cy, than when drowned in water. 
 
 I spoiled bv hav MIL; too 
 
 little water, but [Matoes are often s| toiled by 
 too iiincli : they inn-it merely bft Covered, and 
 a Mill'- alloweil t : -r waste in Ixiilinu, so thai 
 they may be jn<t c,,\ered at the finish. 
 
 Set them on a mrlenite lire till they Ixiil ; 
 then take them off, and |Mit them by the side 
 of the lire to simmer sl.iwly till they are soft 
 enough to admit a fork (place no de|>endence 
 Oil tin- usual test of their skins' clacking, 
 which, if they are liled fast, will happen to 
 some (totatoes when they are if it half done, and 
 the insides quite hard). Then jxmr tlt<' wa- 
 ter off (if you let the potatoes remain in the 
 water a moment after they are done eimiiuli, 
 they will become waxy ami watery), uncover 
 the saucepan, and set it at such a distance 
 from the fire as will secure it from taming; 
 tlioir su|x'rt]uous moisture will evaporate, and 
 the potatoes will be perfectly dry and mealy. 
 
 You may afterward place a napkin, folded 
 op to the size of the saucepan's diameter, 
 over the imtators, to keep them hot and 
 mealy till wanted. 
 
 This method of managing potatoes is in 
 every respect equal to steaming them ; and 
 dressed in half the time. 
 
 There is such an inlinite variety of sorts 
 and -i/es ofpOtlkMj thai it is ini[is.-il>le to 
 nay how Ions; tliey will take duini;: the best 
 way i- t try them with a link. Moderate- 
 Fixed (xttaUtes will generally ' done enough 
 in liftecn or twenty minutes. 
 
 POTATOES, NEW. The best way to 
 clean new potatoes is to nib them with a 
 i'lth or tlaimel, or scruhhin<;-hru.li. 
 
 .\> w |x>tatocs are poor, watery, and insip- 
 id, till they are full two inches in diameter: 
 they are not worth tlx* trouble of boiling be- 
 fore midsummer day. 
 
 Ob*. Some cooks prepare sauces to pour 
 
 over |>tatocs, made with l)ittter, sail, and 
 ppp|n-r, or uravy, or melted tatter and ketch- 
 Op; or stew the potatoes in ale, or water 
 Reasoned with pepper and -all ; i liake them 
 with hen inu- <>i sprat*, mixed with layers 
 Of potatoes, sea-oned with pcp|>ei , salt, sweet 
 n cut mutton or 
 
 18* 
 
 beef into slices, and lay them in a stewpan, 
 and on them potatoes and spices, then anoth- 
 er layer of the meat alternately, pouring in 
 a little water, covering it up very close, and 
 boiling it slowly. 
 
 POTATO BALLS. Mix mashed pota- 
 toes with the yolk of an egg ; roll them into 
 balls; dour them, or egg and bread-crumb 
 them ; and fry them in clean drippings, or 
 brown them in a Dutch oven. 
 
 POTATO BALLS RAGOUT, Are 
 made by adding to a pound of potatoes a 
 i|itarter of a |x>und of grated ham, or some 
 sweet herbs, or chopped pareley, an onion or 
 eschalot, sail, pep|x-r, and a little grated 
 nutmeg, or other spice, with the yolk of a 
 couple of cijus : they are then to be dressed 
 as Potato Halls. 
 
 Obs. An agreeable vegetable relish, and 
 a good .upper-dish. 
 
 POTATOES BOILED, TO BROIL. 
 
 After tailing potatoes not quite sufficiently to 
 send to table, put them on a gridiron over a 
 clear lire, and turn them frequently till they are 
 of a nice brown color all over; serve them 
 hot ; take care they do not become too hard, 
 as that spoils the flavor. 
 
 POTATOES, CASSEROLE. Boil and 
 peel some good mealy potatoes, pound them, 
 and mix with them some butler, cream, and 
 a little salt, put them atant an inch and a 
 half high upon a flat dish, and leave an open- 
 ing in the centre ; bake them of a light brown 
 color, and take out as much from the ceiitrt; 
 as will admit of a ragout, fricassee, or mac- 
 aroni, being put into it. 
 
 POTATOES, COLCANNON. Boil 
 potatoes and greens, or spinage, separately ; 
 mash the potatoes ; squeeze the greens dry ; 
 chop them quite line atxl mix them wilh the 
 potatoes, with a little butter, pepper, and 
 salt; put it into a mould, buttering it well 
 first ; let it stand in a hot oven for ten min- 
 utes. 
 
 POTATO CROQUETTES. When 
 
 boiled and peeled, allow four large mealy 
 potato's, half tlieir weight of butter and of 
 (XHinded loaf sugai', two eggs beaten, half 
 the grated peel of a lemon, and a little salt; 
 pound tlie potatoes in a mortar with die 
 other ingredients; beat the yolks of four 
 eggs ; roll up the croquettes ; dip them into 
 the U-aieii eggs, and roll them in sifted bread 
 cmnib-i; in an hour, roll them again as be- 
 iry them in Uilter; put tU'in upon 
 the hack of a sieve before the fire to drain. 
 
 POTATO EGGS. Mash perfectly
 
 POT 
 
 150 
 
 POT 
 
 smooth six or seven boiled potato??, add a 
 piece of butter the size of a walnut, the bea- 
 ten yolk of an egg, half an onion pounded, 
 a little boiled minced parsley, some |>epper 
 and salt; make it into the form of small 
 eggs or pears, roll them into a well-beaten 
 egg, and then into grated bread crammed, 
 with pepper and salt ; fry them in plenty of 
 lard or dripping till they are of a fine brown 
 color, lay them before the fire to drain ; 
 serve them with a fringe of fried parsley. 
 
 POTATOES FRIED* IN SLICES 
 OR RIBBONS. Peel large potatoes; slice 
 them about a quarter of an inch thick, or 
 cut them in shavings round and round, as 
 you would peel a lemon ; dry them well in a 
 clean cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping. 
 Take care that your fat and frying-pan are 
 quite clean; put it on a quick fire, watch it, 
 and as soon as the lard boils, and is still, 
 put in the slices of potato, and keep moving 
 them till they are crisp. Take them up, 
 and lay them to drain on a sieve : send them 
 up with a very little salt sprinkled over them. 
 
 POTATOES FRIED WHOLE. When 
 nearly boiled enough, put them into a stew- 
 pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean 
 beef-drippings; shake them about often (for 
 fear of burning them), till they are brown 
 and crisp; drain them from the fat. Obs. 
 It will be an elegant improvement previous 
 to frying or broiling the potatoes, to flour 
 them and dip them in the yolk of an eg*;, 
 and then roll them in fine-sifted bread- 
 crumbs; they will then deserve to be called 
 
 POTATOES FOLL DRESSED. 
 
 POTATOES RAW OR COLD, TO 
 FRY. Wash, peel, and put them into cold 
 water for one or two hours, cut them into 
 slices about half an inch thick, and fry them 
 a light brown in boiling clarified beef suet. 
 Cold boiled potatoes, cut in slices, may be 
 done in the same manner. 
 
 POTATO FRITTERS. Peel, and 
 pound in a mortar, six mealy potatoes, with 
 a little salt, a glass of white wine, some 
 pounded sugar, cinnamon, and an ounce of 
 butter ; roll it out with a little flour, cut 
 them the size of a wine glass, and fry tliem 
 in Ixiiling clarified dripping. Serve them 
 with sifted loaf sugar over them. 
 
 POTATOES, MASHED. (1) When, 
 your potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain 
 them quite dry, pick out every s|x-ck, &c. and 
 while hot, rub them through a colander into 
 a clean stewpan. To a |xmnd of potatoes 
 put alxuit half an ounce of butter, and a t.i- 
 ble-spoontiil of milk : do not spake them too 
 moist; mix them w<ll together. Obs. 
 
 When the potatoes are getting old and 
 specky, and in frosty weather, this is the 
 !> t way of dressing them. You may put 
 them into shapes or small tea-cups; egg 
 them with yolk of egg, and brown them very 
 slightly before a slow fire. 
 
 POTATOES, MASHED. (2) Boil the 
 potatoes, peel and mash them very smoothly ; 
 put for a large dish four ounces of butter, 
 two eggs beat up in half a pint of good milk, 
 and some salt ; mix them well together, 
 heap it upon a dish with a table-spoon to 
 give it a rough and rocky appearance, or 
 put it on a dish and score it with a knife, 
 dip a brush or feather into melted butter, 
 and brush over the lop lightly ; put it into 
 a Dutch oven, and let it brown gradually 
 for an hour or more. To mash potatoes in 
 a plain way, mix with them two ounces of 
 butter, half a pint of milk, and a little salt. 
 When mashed potatoes are not browned, it 
 is a great improvement to add pepper, salt, 
 and one onion minced as finely as possible; 
 heat the potatoes in a saucepan, and serve 
 them hot. 
 
 POTATOES, ROASTED. Wash and 
 dry your potatoes, (all of a size), and put 
 them in a tin Dutch oven, or cheese-toaster: 
 take care not to put tliem too near the fire, 
 or they will get burned on the outside before 
 they are warmed through. Large potatoes 
 will require two hours to roast them. 
 N. B. To save time and trouble, some 
 cooks half boil them first. This is one of 
 the l>est opportunities the BAKER has to 
 rival the cook. 
 
 POTATOES ROASTED UNDER 
 MEAT. Half Ixiil larsfe potatoes, drain the. 
 water from them, and put them into an earth- 
 en dish, or small tin (KIM, under meat that is 
 roasting, and baste them with some of the 
 dripping: when they are browned on one 
 side, turn them and brown th:- other; si-mi 
 tliem up round the meat, or in a small dish. 
 
 POTATOES SCALLOPED. Mash ,*,. 
 tatoes as directed, then butter some nice 
 clean scollop-shells, patty-|Kins, or te,i-cii|,s 
 or saucers; put in your |x>tatocs; make 
 tlwm smooth at the top; cross a knife over 
 i them; strew a lew tine bread-crumbs on 
 them: sprinkle them with a paste-brush 
 with a few drops of melted butter, and then 
 set them in a Dutch o\en; when they are 
 browned on tlie top, take them carefully out 
 of the shells, and brown the other side. 
 
 POTATO SNOW. The potatoes must 
 
 I):' lire from sjwiN. and tile whitest you can 
 pick out ; put them on in cold water; when 
 they Ix'gin to crack, strain the water from
 
 POT 
 
 151 
 
 POU 
 
 them, and put them into a clean stcwpan by 
 of the fire till they are quite dry, 
 and fall to pieces ; rub them through a wire 
 sieve on the dish they are to lie sent up in, 
 and do not disturb them afterward. 
 
 POT POURRI. Gather, when perfect- 
 ly dry, a peck of roses; pick off the leaves, 
 and strew over them three-qtiarters of a 
 pound of << numon salt; let them remain 
 two or three days, and if any fresh flowers 
 are added, some more salt should be sprin- 
 tliem. Mix with the roses half a 
 pound of tinely-pounded bay silt, the same 
 quantity of allspice, of cloves, and of brown 
 i|iiarter of a pound of zuin-henju- 
 miu, and two ounces of orris-root ; add a 
 glare of brandy, and any sort of fragrant 
 flown. Mich as orange and lemon (lowers 
 rosemary, and a threat quantity of lavender 
 flowers also white lilies: a green orange 
 stuck with cloves may be added. All the 
 flowers must be gathered perfectly dry. 
 
 l'i I I I Mi BEEF, VEAL, GAME, or 
 POULTRY. Take three pound* of lean 
 gravy beef, nil) it well with an ounce of 
 salt|-tre. and tncn a hanilful of common 
 salt ; let it lie in salt for a couple of days, 
 rubbing it well each day; then put it into 
 11 |>an or stone jar that will just 
 hold it; rover it will) the skin and fat that 
 you rut oir, and pour in half a pint of wa- 
 ter; cover it close with paste, and set it in 
 a \er\ >'ow oven (or about four hours. 
 
 \Viieu it comes from the oven, drain the 
 gra\v tVoni it into a basin ; pick out the gris- 
 tle* and the skins; mince it fine; moisten it 
 with a little of the gravy you poured from 
 the meat, which is a very strou<; consomme 
 (lint rather silt), and it will make excellent 
 pease soup, or browning; pound the incut 
 patiently and thoroughly in .1 mortar with 
 (.-line fn li butter, till it is a line 
 
 < I meat smooth there is nothing 
 eijital to plenty of elbow-grease) ; seasoning 
 it l>y decrees, as vou are leafing it, with 
 a little black jit-ppcr and allspice, or cloves 
 p'iunde.1. in- mace, or graleii mi- 
 
 Put it in |vts, pi-ess it down as close as 
 
 I cover it a f|'iartiT of an inch 
 
 thick with clarified l>ntter; and if \ou wish 
 
 ' ii.it tie a 
 
 Ke 'p it in a dry place. 
 iv mince a liitle h.iai or bacon, or 
 an and; > herlw, or an 
 
 eschalot, and a little larni^.-n. chenil. or 
 bnniet. >vcc., and (XMind them with tin- incut, 
 with a Lrlass of wine, or some mustard, or 
 
 It is a MTV agreeable and cc.-momical 
 way of using tlie n in or poul- 
 
 try, or a l.nx'c joint of eillier roasted or 
 boiled beef, >eal, ham, or ti.ngnc, &c. to I 
 
 mince it with some of the fat, or moisten 
 it with a little butter, and beat it in a mor- 
 tar with the seasoning, &c. 
 
 Meat that has been boiled down for 
 gravies, &c. (which ha. heretofore been 
 considered the perquisite of the cat) and ia 
 completely drained of all its succulence, beat 
 in a mortar with salt and a little ground 
 black [x'pper and allspice, as directed in 
 the fore-joing receipt, and it will make as 
 good potted beef as meat that hag been 
 baked till its moisture is entirely extracted, 
 which it must be, or it will not keep two 
 days. 
 
 M K M. Meat that has not been previous- 
 ly salted, will not keep go long as that 
 which has. 
 
 POULTRY. In choosing a turkey, the 
 youn<r cock bird is to be preferred ; tlie best 
 have black legs, and if young, the toes and 
 bill are pliable and feel soft. A hen turkey 
 is chi-sen by the same rules. 
 
 l-'owls with black legs are the l>est; if 
 fresh, the vent is close and dark ; if young, 
 the coml)s are bright in the color, and die 
 legs smooth tlie spurs of a young cock are 
 short. 
 
 A goose, if young and fine, is plump in 
 the breast, the fat white and soft, the feet 
 yellow, and but few hairs upon them. 
 
 Ducks may be chosen by the same rules, 
 and are hard and thick on the breast and 
 belly. 
 
 - should be quite fresh, the breast 
 plump and fat, the feet elastic, and neither 
 flabby nor discolored at tlie vent. 
 
 To prepare a turkey for dressing, every 
 |)|HL' is carefully picked out; and in drawing 
 tnrkevs and fowls, care must be taken not 
 to break llie gall bair, nor the -,'iit which 
 joins tlie gizzard, as it is impossible to re- 
 move the bitterness of tin- one, or the gritti- 
 ii' of the other. Tlie hairs are si 
 with white paper; tlie leg-bone is broken 
 close to tlie foot, an<i the sinews drawn on: 
 a cloth is then p-.it over the bi> 
 tin- Ix.ne flattened with a rolling-pin, the 
 liver and gizzard, made delicately < 
 f.i-!cned into each pinion. A stnin 
 .i'ii sausage meat, adding some grated 
 bread, and mixing it with the l>ea;ea yolks 
 _'*, or a shilling as for a fillet of 
 \i-al. i- tlicn put into the btvast, and the 
 turkey, well nibbed over with lloiir, is put 
 down to roast. It is basted constantly with 
 lMter, and when the steam draws towards 
 tile lire, it is nearly done; it is tlicn dredg- 
 ed with Hour, and basted -.lith more Uitter, 
 served with j;ra\y in the dish, and mi niched 
 with sausages, or with f-rcenieat balls if 
 veal -tiiMini.' is used, and bread .-auce in a 
 sauce tiirtvn. 
 
 To boil a turkey. After being nicely
 
 POIT 
 
 152 
 
 PRESERVES 
 
 cleaned, it is trussed with the legs drawn in 
 under the skin, stuffed with a forcemeat, as 
 (or veal, adding a few chopped oysters; 
 then boiled in a well-floured cloth, and serv- 
 ed with oyster, white or celery sauce, poured 
 over it, and alto some in a sauce tureen. 
 Boiled ham, tongue, or pickled pork, is eat- 
 en with it. A large-sized turkey will require 
 more than two hours to boil. Turkey, with 
 celery sauce, is stuffed and trussed neatly, 
 laid all over with slices of bacon, tied in a 
 cloth, and boiled in water, with a little salt, 
 butter, and lemon-juice added. It is served 
 thickly covered with celery sauce. 
 
 Turkey poults are stuffed and roasted in 
 the same manner as a full-grown turkey. 
 They will require rather more than an hour 
 to roast. They are dressed with the heads 
 t\\ -istcd under the wing, as are also turkeys 
 sometimes, but it seems an injudicious cus- 
 tom, as the side on which the head is cannot 
 Ix? nicely browned, and in carving, the blood 
 from the neck is apt to mingle with the 
 gravy. 
 
 To roost a fowl. It is picked, nicely 
 cleaned, and singed; the neck is cut off 
 close by the hick ; the fowl is then washed, 
 and if a large one, stuffed with forcemeat. 
 It is trussed and dredged with flour; and 
 when put down to roast, basted well with 
 butter, and frothed up. When the steam is 
 observed to draw towards the fire, it is 
 sufficiently done ; served with gravy in the 
 dish, and bread sauce in a butter tureen. 
 A good-sized fowl will require above an hour 
 to roast. 
 
 Chickens are roasted as the above, and 
 served with gravy in the dish, which is 
 garnished with fried eggs, and bread sauce 
 in a sauce tureen ; they will require from 
 half an hour to three-quarters to roast. 
 
 To boil a fowl. When nicely singed, 
 washed, and trussed, it is well dredged with 
 flour, and put nit in boiling water, and if a 
 large one, boiled nearly an hour. It is 
 served with parsley and butter, white, or 
 Jiver sauce. 
 
 Two boiled fowls, served with a tongue 
 between them, make a handsome top dish. 
 
 Boiled chickens are improved by being 
 stuffed, and will require nearly half an hour 
 to boil. 
 
 To roast a goose. After being well 
 cleaned, picked, and singed, it is washed, 
 made jjcrfectly dry, and stuffed with about 
 four table-spoonfuls of grated bread, an on- 
 ion finely minced, together with three sage- 
 loaves, seasoned with salt and |X'p|>er, and 
 mixed with a well-beaten egg; or, the j 
 stuffing is made of boiled mashed potatoes, 
 seasoned in the same way as the other-, and 
 mixed with a Ix-aten rj<j. If roasted on a 
 spit, each end is tied on tightly; it is basted 
 at first with a little bit of butter, after which 
 
 the fat that drops from it is used. It is 
 served with tjravy in the dish, and apple 
 sauce in a sauce tureen. A large goose will 
 require an hour and a half to roast. At ta- 
 ble, an opening is cut in the apron, and a 
 glass of Port wine, with which is mixed a 
 large tea-spoonful of made mustard, is pour- 
 ed into the body of the goose. This is also 
 an improvement to ducks. 
 
 A green goose, atjout two or three months 
 old, is seasoned with pepper and salt only, 
 and requires to be basted with butter. It 
 requires about an hour to roast. 
 
 To roast ducks. They are nicely 'picked, 
 cleaned, singed, and washed, seasoned with 
 pepper and salt; or stufled, and served with 
 gravy, as directed in pp. 66, 67. A duck 
 may be boiled for nearly an hour, and served 
 with onion sauce poured over it. 
 
 PRESERVES, SWEETMEATS. &c. 
 
 All sweetmeats should be preserved in a 
 brass pan, which must 1x3 well scoured with 
 sand and vinegar, washed with hot water, 
 and wiped perfectly dry before it is used. 
 
 An iron plate or stove is preferable to a 
 fire for preserving on; and by Ixiiling the 
 fruit quickly, the form, color, and flavor, 
 will be belter preserved, and there will be 
 less waste than* in slow boiling. A round 
 wooiien stick, smaller at one end than at 
 the other, in Scotland called a thevil, is 
 lietter adapted for stirring sugar or preserves 
 with than a silver spoon, which last is only 
 used for skimming. That there may lie no 
 waste in taking off the scum, it is put through 
 a line silk sieve, or through a hair sieve, 
 with a l)it of muslin laid into it; the clear 
 part will run into the vessel placed lx j low, 
 and may be returned to the preserving- 
 pan. 
 
 A silver soup ladle is used for putting pre- 
 serves into the jars, which should l)e of 
 brown stone, or of white wedtjewood ware. 
 After the jellies or preserves are put in, they 
 must not be moved till quite cold, when they 
 are covered with a piece of white paper, cut 
 so as to fit into the jar, and dipped into brandy 
 or rum. They are then stored in a cool dry 
 place, and should be looked at occaMon.dlv. 
 If in a few weeks they be observed to fer- 
 ment, the sirup should be first strained from 
 the fruit, then boiled till it is thick, and 
 again poured over the fruit, previously put 
 into clean jars. 
 
 Sugar, low in price, and consequently 
 coarse in quality, is far from lx?ing rlieapest 
 in the end ; while that which is most refin- 
 ed is always the best. White sugars should 
 Ix; chosen as shining and as close in texture 
 as possible. 
 
 The best sort of brown sugar has a bright 
 and gravelly appearance. 
 
 A jellv-bag is made of half a square of
 
 PRESERVES 
 
 153 
 
 PRESERVES 
 
 flannel folded by PIP corner?, and one side 
 sewed up; the \<-\> bound with tape, and 
 four loops also of t;i|x j sewed on. 
 liang upon a stand made of four Kirs of 
 wood, each thirty -six incites in height, fast- 
 ened w i : > i the top, each meas- 
 uring ten inches uith hooks upon the cor- 
 ners. Twelve in -hes from die bottom four 
 more bars arc placed. A pan or basin is 
 put underneath to receive tlie juice or jelly 
 as it drops dirough the bag. 
 
 To save Sugar in Preserving Cher- 
 ries, Green Gages, Damsons, Currants, 
 and Raspberrii .-.. Gather the fruit perfectly 
 dry, and to a ixniiul allow five ounces of finely- 
 pounded lo;:f.-u^'ir; put a layer of fruit into a 
 wide-mouthed bottle or jar, and then one of 
 sugar, till the \essel is full ; tie over it tightly 
 two fold* of--' HIM 1 bladder, and put them into 
 acop|>cror pan, witli straw in the bottom, 
 and water :i- in Ji a.- the necks, and let them 
 simmer for three hours. When the water 
 ':.< out the bottles, and keep them 
 in a cool dry . 
 
 FRUIT, WITHOUT 
 
 SHJAi; misons when not too 
 
 k off the stalks, and put them into 
 wide-mouihed uU,-s Wtles, taking care not 
 to put iii any but what are whole, and with- 
 out blemi.-h; shake them well down (other- 
 I will not l half full when 
 done); .-top the Wiles with new soft corks, 
 not too ti^'ht; set them into a very slow oxen 
 (nearly e,>li!) four or li\e hours; the slower 
 ; :n- better; wlx-n they begin 
 to ~\\\ ink in the Wll.-s, it H a sure siijii that 
 Uie fruit i- thoroughly warm: Like them 
 out, an.! ue cold, drive in the 
 
 corks quite 1'uh:; -t them in a hit tie-rack or 
 bask, t, uiih ill.- month downwards, and they 
 will n- 
 
 . morello cherries, cur- 
 rants, green gages, or bullace, may be done 
 
 Obs. lit!,, r.iik- are good, and fit well, 
 
 II IK- no occasion for cemenlini; 
 tin in; I.IK -: -ild bungs be used, it will be 
 necessary . 
 
 AITI.KS. (1) Pare, core, 
 
 and quarter six (xninds of good hard bak- 
 ing apples; finely poinul lour |x>unds of loaf 
 
 i-.er of each alternately, with 
 h.ilf n pound of the beat white ginger, into a 
 jar; let i: md-foity hour*; iiifn-.-, 
 
 for half (hat time, in a little Ixiili 
 half a quarter of a pound of bruised white 
 strain and lx>il the liquor with tin- 
 apples till thev look clear, ami tin- sirup rich 
 and thick, whii h may be in about an hour. 
 Take (.tt 'tl -.1 -i-niii as it rises. XV hen to be 
 eaten, pick out the whole ginger. 
 
 PRESERVED APPLES. (2 
 equal quantities of good brown sugar and of 
 apples; peel, cote, and mince them small. Boil 
 the su^ar, allowing to every three pounds a 
 pint of water; skim it well, and boil it pretty 
 thick; then add die apples, the grati-d ]jeel 
 of one or two lemons, and two or three 
 pieces of white ginger; boil till the apples 
 fall, and look clear and yellow. This pre- 
 serve will keep for years. 
 
 APPLES, GREEN COD- 
 LINGS. Gather the codlings when not 
 
 bilker than French walnuts with the stalks 
 and a leaf or two on each. Put a handful of 
 \ ine lea\es into a piv-n \ ing-pan, then a layer 
 of codlings, then vine leaves, and then cod- 
 lings and vine leaves alternately, until it is 
 full, with vine leaves pretty thickly strewed 
 on the top, and fill the pan with spi 
 ter; cover it close to keep in the steam, and 
 set it on a slow fire till die apples U-eome 
 soft. Take them out, and pare off the 
 rinds widi a penknife, and then put them 
 into the same water again with the vine 
 leaves, but taking care that die water is 
 become quite cold, or it will cause them 
 to crack; put in a little alum and set 
 them over a slow fire till they are green, 
 when, take them out and lay them on a 
 sieve to drain. Make a good simp and 
 give diem a gentle boil three succe-.-ive 
 days; then put diem in small jars with 
 brandy paper over diem, and tie diem 
 down tight. 
 
 APPLES, GOLDEN PIPPINS. 
 
 Take die rind of an orange and boil it \i-ry 
 tender; lay it in cold water lor three . 
 take two dozen golden pippins, pare, core, 
 and quarter them, and boil them to a strong 
 jelly, and nin it dirough a jelly-bag till it is 
 clear; take the same quantity of pippins, 
 pare and core diem, and put three jxiunds 
 of loaf sugar in a preserving-pan w ith a 
 pint and a half of spring water; let it Ixiil ; 
 skim it well and put in your pippins, w ith 
 the orange rind cut into long diin sli|>s; 
 then let diem boil fast till die sugar becomes 
 thick and will almost candy; then put in a 
 pint and half of pi|>pin jelly, and boil f;ist 
 till the jelly is c I ,.;ir; tln-n squec/e in die 
 juice of a fine lemon ; gi\c file who lean- 
 other !iil, and put the pippins in pots or 
 
 with the oraii!{c-|xvl. 
 I>-mon-|x-cl may be; ti.-ed in-tead of or- 
 ange, but dien it fiuist only be boiled, mid 
 notioaked. 
 
 . Ai'KiroTS. 1'arp your ap- 
 
 ricnt.-, and SI..IH- what you can whole, tlicn 
 yive tin-in a li^'lit Wliug in water propor- 
 tioned to the quantity of fruit, only just 
 enough; dtcn take (!M- weight of die apricoU
 
 PRESERVES 
 
 154 
 
 PRESERVES 
 
 in sugar, and take the liquor in which they 
 have boiled, and the sugar, and boil it till 
 it conies to a sirup, and give them a light 
 boiling, taking off the scum as it rises. 
 When the sirup jellies it is enough ; then 
 take tip the apricots anil cover them with 
 the jelly; put cut paper over them, and lay 
 them down when cold. 
 
 BLACK CURRANTS. Gather 
 
 the currants upon a dry day; to every 
 pound allow half a pint of red currant 
 juice, and a pound and a half of finely- 
 pounded loaf sugar. With scissors clip off 
 the heads and stalks ; put the juice, sugar, 
 and currants into a preserving pan; shake 
 it frequently till it boils; carefully remove 
 the fruit from the sides of the pan, and take 
 off the scum as it ri^es ; let it boil for ten or 
 fifteen minutes. This preserve may be eat- 
 en with cream, and made into tarts. 
 
 CHERRIES. To a pound of 
 
 cherries allow three-quarters of a pound 
 of pounded loaf sugar; carefully stone them, 
 and as they are done, strew part of the su- 
 gar over them; boil them fast, with the re- 
 mainder of the sugar, till the fruit is clear 
 and the sirup thick ; take off the scum as it 
 rises. Or they may be boiled ten minutes 
 in an equal quantity of sugar, which has 
 been previously clarified and boiled candy 
 high. Part of the kernels may be added. 
 
 CUCUMBERS. Take large 
 
 and fresh-gathered cucumbers; 'split them 
 down and take out all the seeds ; lay them 
 in salt and water that will bear an egg, 
 three days; set them on a fire with cold 
 water, and a small lump of alum, and boil 
 them a few minutes, or till tender; drain 
 them, and pour on them a thin sirup; let 
 them lie two days; boil the simp again, and 
 put it over the cucumbers; repeat it twice 
 more; then have ready some fresh clarified 
 sugar, boiled to a blow ; put in the cucumbers, 
 simmer it five minutes; set it by till next 
 day; boil the simp and cucumbers again, 
 and set them in glasses for use. 
 
 < CUCUMBERS, SMALL. 
 
 Weigh equal proportions of small green cu- 
 cumbers and of fine loaf sugar, clarify it; 
 rub the cucumbers with a cloth, scald them 
 in hot water, and, when cold, put them into 
 the sirup, witl\ some white ginger and the 
 peel of a, lemon ; boil them gently for ten 
 minutes. The following day just let them 
 boil, and rejxjat this three times, and the 
 last, boil them till tender and clear. 
 
 nately a layer of damsons, and one of sugar ; 
 tie them over with bladder or strong paper, 
 and put them into an oven after the bread is 
 withdrawn, and let them remain till the oven 
 is cold. The following day strain off the 
 sirup, and boil it till thick. When cold, 
 put the damsons one by one into small jars, 
 and pour over them the sirup, which must 
 cover them. Tie them over with wet 
 bladder. 
 
 DAMSONS. (2) Prick them 
 
 with a needle, and boil them with sugar 
 the same proportion as in the receipt to 
 preserve damsons, till the sirup will jelly. 
 Carefully take off all the scum. 
 
 DAMSONS. (1) To even, pound 
 
 of damsons allow three-quarters of a pourtd 
 of pounded loaf sugar; put into jars alter- 
 
 GREEN GAGES. Put die 
 
 plums into boiling water, pare off the skin, 
 and divide them ; take an equal quantity of 
 pounded loaf sugar, strew half of it over the 
 fruit; let it remain some hours, and, with 
 (he remainder of the sugar, put it into a 
 preserving pan ; boil till the plums look 
 quite clear, take off the scum as it rises, 
 and a few minutes before taking them off 
 the fire, add the kernels. 
 
 LARGE SWEET GREEN 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES. (1) Weigh equal pro- 
 portions of sugar and of fruit; with a pen- 
 knife slit the gooseberries on one side, and 
 take out all the seeds; put. them into a pre- 
 serving pan with cold water, scald them; 
 pour off the water when cold ; put over and 
 under therifvine leaves, with more cold water j 
 set them over the fire to green. Clarify the su- 
 gar ; put die gooseljerries into a deep jar, and 
 pour the boiling sirup over them; in two 
 days pour it off, boil, and put it over the 
 fruit ; repeat this till die sirup becomes thick, 
 then put them into small jars. 
 
 LARGE SWEET GREEN 
 
 GOOSJEBERRIKS. (2) Gather the largest- 
 si/ed <iou.--eben ies, and allow an equal quan- 
 tity of pounded loaf sugar; cut then- 
 ries in half, and take out the seeds; wet the 
 siiipir wiih a little water, and put idl together 
 into a preserving pan; carefully stir and 
 scum them, and boil them till the sirup is 
 clear and the fruit soft. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES. The tops 
 
 and tails being removed from the gooseber- 
 ries, allow an e<|iial quantity of finely-pounded 
 loaf sugar, and put a layer of each alternate- 
 ly into a large deep jar ; pour into it as much 
 dripped currant juice, either red or white, as 
 will dissolve the sugar, adding its weight in 
 sugar; the following day put all into a pre- 
 serving pan and boil it. 
 
 GREEN PEAS. Put into a
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 155 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 saucepan of boiling water fresh gathered 
 and fresh-shelled peas, but not very \oung; 
 as soon as they Ixjil up, |x>r off the water, 
 and put them upon a large dry cloth folded, 
 and then ujxni atiotlier, that they may be 
 perfectly dry w itliout being bruised ; let 
 them lie some time, before the fire, and then 
 put them into small paper bags, each c"ii- 
 taining about a pint, and hang them up in 
 the kitchen. Before if ing, soak them for 
 two or three hours in water, and then boil 
 them as directed for green peas, adding a 
 little bit of butter, when they are put on to 
 boil. 
 
 I'RKSERVKn JARGONELLE PEARS. 
 
 Gather pears with stalk* lx>fore they are 
 quite ri|>e; allow equal quantities of fine 
 
 .r and of fruit. Pare the pear? as 
 thinly ;is |xi?.ible, keeping on the stalks; 
 can-fully cut out the black top; as they are 
 peeled put them into cold water. 1'ut cab- 
 BMgl leaves into the bottom of a prexr\ in^- 
 pan ; lay in the pears, cover them with 
 Cold water and one or two cabbage leaves 
 upon (he top; Ixiil them thirty minutes, and 
 lay them upon a dish. To six pounds of 
 
 1 1 low a pound of water, boil and 
 skim it; then add one ounce of while gin- 
 ger, previously soaked in hot water, and 
 scraped clean, add the juice and thinly par- 
 ed rinds of two lemon*. Hod the sirup ten 
 minutes, |xit in the pears, and let them boil 
 twenty minutes; take them out, put them 
 into a Ixnvl or deep dish, Ixiil the sirup 
 cL'ht minutes, and when cold |ur it o\i-r 
 the |-ars; coxi-r them with pajx-r; iu four \ 
 days JxMirotf the simp, lx>il it eight in 
 and |xmr it mer the jx-.irs when cold. In 
 four d.us irjK-at this pi-ocrns, and do it a 
 third lime; tlien stick a clove in each pear, 
 when- the black lop wa-i cut out. I'nt them 
 md le:no!i-|x-el, 
 and |x>ur on the simp when cold. 
 
 KKI) PKAKS. Parlx.il a doz- 
 
 en of |i ..i . I pears in water; [x-el them. 
 ChriU the .-nine weight of fine I 
 that then :i of Port 
 
 wine, the juii and rind of one |e-, 
 a little i ..iln .1. a lew c|,,\ 
 of ciiiiia;non; Ixiil tile |>ears in this till they 
 iear ami red; take them out, ln.il 
 up tile simp, strain, and put it o\er the 
 
 pri)DlN.;s. PIKS. AM) T\ ; i - 
 Great n i pn-par- 
 
 tial used for lx>ilcd or baked 
 pnodin 
 
 i 1>T well If 
 
 to be done, a 
 whi-k i- used . if t--w, a lii. 
 The tin 
 
 are carefully ( .-leaned, by putting them into 
 a cullender, and pouring warm water over 
 them; if very dirty, this is to be repeated 
 two or three times, and after being dried in 
 a dish IK -to re the fire, tliey are nibbed in a 
 clean coarse cloth, all tin- stalks and stones 
 picked (ut, and then a little flour dredged 
 over them. The raisins are stoned with a 
 small sharp-jxiinted knife ; it is cleansed in 
 a basin of water, which also receives the 
 seed. Tlie pudding cloth must be kept es- 
 pecially clean, or it will impart an unpleas- 
 io anything that is boiled in it; 
 and when taken off" a pudding, it ouiiht im- 
 mediately to 1x3 laid in cold water, and af- 
 terwaids well washed with soda or pearl- 
 ashes in hot water. Just before lieing used 
 for a rice, bread, or batter pudding, it 
 should be dipped into hot water, wrung, 
 shaken, and well dredged with flour ; and 
 for a plum, suet pudding, or any sort of 
 fruit pudding in paste, it must be buttered 
 Ix-tore being floured. 
 
 The water should Ixiil quick when the 
 pudding is [Hit in; and it should lx- moved 
 about lor a minute, lor fear the ingredients 
 should not mix. 
 
 When the |Mi<ldiiu i* done, a pan of cold 
 water should lie ready, and the podding 
 dip|x-d into it as soon as it comes out of the 
 pot, which will prevent its adhering to the 
 cloth. 
 
 A bread pudding should be tied loose; 
 if batter, it must be tied tight over, and a 
 liatter pudding should be strained through a 
 vc when all is mixed. In others, 
 the eggs only. If you Ixiil the pudding in 
 a basin or |,'in, take care that it is always 
 well buttered. 
 
 When you make your puddings without 
 e^'s, they nrist have ar- little milk as will 
 mix, and must Ixiil lor three or four hour?. 
 A few s|XHinlnls of small Ix-er, or one of 
 vea-l, ii the ln->t Mil.'stitute for e^s. Your 
 puddings will always be much lighter it'\ou 
 Ix-at the yolks' and whites of the i 
 and separately. You may, if you please, 
 instead of ei^s, cither in pudding* 
 or pancake?. Two lame s|xi<nifuU w ill siip- 
 | ly th:- |:!ace of one c^ ; the snow may lie 
 taken up from an\ clean >|x>t lx-|ore it R 
 wanted, and will not lose its virtue, though 
 . i he lx-tier. 
 
 All puddings in pa.-te are tied tightly, but 
 
 oilier puddings linwly, in the cloth. When 
 
 a pudding is to IK- Iniili d in a sha|<-. a pi-ce 
 
 of buttered while [W|>er is put upon tile top 
 
 of it, In-fore (he liomvd cloth is tied on. 
 
 . dish, or shape, in which the pod- 
 
 i Iw either boiled or iKiked, must 
 
 . buttered Ix-tore it is filled. It is 
 
 an improvement to jNiildiugs in general to 
 
 let tlM-ni stand >ome time alt. i U-iui; prepared 
 
 Ixjiling or baking. When a pud-
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 156 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 ding is to be boiled, it must be put on in a 
 covered pot, in plenty of boiling water, and 
 never for a moment be allowed to be off the 
 boil until ready to be served. As the water 
 wastes, more, and always boiling, must be 
 added. A plum pudding is the better for 
 bein;; mixed the day before it is to 1 boiled. 
 It may be useful to observe that this pudding 
 will keep for months after it is dressed, if 
 the cloth be allowed to remain upon it, and 
 if, when cold, it be covered with a sheet of 
 foolscap paper, and then hung up in a cool 
 place. When about to be used, it must l>e 
 put into a clean cloth, and again boiled for 
 an hour; or it may be cut into pliers, and 
 broiled as wanted. If in breaking eggs a 
 bad one should accidentally drop into the 
 basin amongst the rest, the whole will be 
 spoiled ; and therefore they should be broken 
 one by one into a tea-cup. When the 
 whites only of eggs are required for a jelly, 
 or other things, the yolks, if not broken, will 
 keep good for three days, if the basin they 
 are in be covered. 
 
 A slab of marble, stone, or slate, is pref- 
 erable to wood for rolling out paste on. 
 The rolling-pin, cutters, and every other im- 
 plement used in these processes, must he 
 kept particularly clean; thev should alvvavs 
 l>e washed immediately alter Iteing used, 
 and then well dried. Before using butter 
 for (Kiste, it is laid for some time into cold 
 water, which is changed once or twiec. 
 When salt butter is used, it is well worked 
 in two or three waters. If it should not be 
 convenient to make the paste immediately 
 liefore it. is baked, it will not suffer from 
 standing, if made eaily in the morning, and 
 the air excluded from it, by putting first a 
 tin cover over the pie or tartlets, and 
 above that a folded table-cloth. To ascer- 
 tain if the oven be of a proper heat, a little 
 bit of paste may be baked in it, before any 
 tiling else be put in. Puff paste requires 
 rather a brisk oven. If too hot it binds the 
 surface and prevents the steam from rising, 
 and if too slow it becomes sodden and flat. 
 Raised crusts require a quick oven; puffs 
 and tartlets, which are filled with preserved 
 fruit, are sufficiently done when the paste is 
 liaked. When large pies have been in the 
 oven for a few minutes, a paper is put over 
 them to prevent their being burned. 
 
 PUDDING. Sweeten a pint and a half 
 of cream, and boil it with the peel of a small 
 lemon; cut the crumb of a twopenny roll, 
 and put it into the cream, and boil it for 
 eight minutes, stirring constantly ; when 
 thick add a quarter of a pound of fresh but- 
 ter beaten to a cream, a tea-spoonful of gra- 
 ted nutmeg, and four well-lieaten eggs; beat 
 it all well together for some minutes. It 
 may be baked or boiled. 
 
 APRICOT. Take six-and- 
 
 tliirty nice fine red apricots, cut them in 
 halves, and take out the stones, and roll 
 them in a pan with four 'nine's of powdered 
 sugar. Prepare your crust, line votu- mould 
 with it, put in your apricots, and finish the 
 same as in the receipt for Apple Pudding a 
 la Francaise. 
 
 ALMOND, BAKED. Steep 
 
 four ounces of crumbs of bread sliced 
 in a pint and half of cream, or grate the 
 bread; then beat half a pound of blanched 
 almonds very fine, till they Ijecome a paste, 
 with two tea-sp<xmfnls of orange-flower wa- 
 ter; beat up the yolks of eight eirgs, and the 
 whites of four; mix all well together; put in 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir 
 in three or four ounces of melted butter; 
 put it over the fire, and keep stirring until 
 it is thick ; lay a sheet of paper at the bottom 
 of a dish, and" pour in the ingredients. To 
 bake half an hour. 
 
 ALMOND. Blanch and beat 
 
 a pound of sweet almonds with a litite 
 rose-water, mix a |xjuml of bread grated, 
 a nutmeg, half a pound of butter, and the 
 yolks of six eggs, boil a pint of eream, co- 
 lored with a very litl!<- saffron, add it to tile 
 eggs and a little flour, knead it well, and 
 then put in the almonds, Ix-alini: it up till 
 all is mixed together. Boil it for half an 
 hour in a buttered cloth. 
 
 AMBER. Put a pound of 
 
 butter into a saucepan, with three-quarters 
 of a pound of powder-sugar ; when melted 
 and well mixed together, add the yolks of 
 fifteen eggs beaten, ami as much candied or- 
 ange beaten to a paste as will give color and 
 flavor to it. Line the dish with paste for 
 turning out, and when lilled \\ith the above, 
 lay a crust over, as u>u would a pie, and 
 bake in a slow oven. It may be eaten hot 
 or cold. 
 
 APPLE. (1) Weigh one 
 
 pound and three-quarters of apples, pan . 
 core, and cut them into thin bits; weigh 
 also ten ounces of brown sugar; make a 
 suet paste, rolled thinner towards the edges 
 than in the middle, and Mjtiieiently large to 
 lay into a two-quart Ijasin, previously but- 
 tered; put in die apple and sugar alternate- 
 ly, wet die edges of the pai-te, and lold it 
 closely over; dredge it with llour, and tie a 
 pudding cloth over the top of a basin; boil 
 it for three hours. A li^hl paste may be 
 made with flour, half ii.- quantity in bulk of 
 grated bread and suei. mixing it with milk 
 or water, and, instead of apples, currants, 
 damsons, or any otli.-i Ii nil, may be enclos- 
 ed in it.
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 157 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 APPLE. (2) Peel and core 
 
 ix very large apples, stew tliem in six ta- 
 We-spoonfuls nl" water, with the riml of it 
 lemon; wlien sift, Ix-at them to ;i pulp, add 
 six ounces <(' melted iVoli butter, the same 
 Of good brown j-u^.ir, six well-beaten eggs, 
 half :i \\HK-jli-- of l>ntinly, anil a tea- 
 gpoonful of lemon-juice; line a dish with a 
 puff paste, and H lieu baked, stick all over 
 the top thin chips of candied citron and 
 lemon-peel. 
 
 APPLE. (3) Make a batter with 
 
 two egg?, a pint of milk, and three or four 
 spoonful.* of (lour; pour it into a deep dish, 
 and having |>ared six or eight small apples, 
 place them whole in die baiter and bake it. 
 
 APPLE, BOILED. Gimp four 
 
 ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces 
 of butter, lard, or dripping ; but the suet 
 makes the best and lightest crust ; put it 
 on the paste-board, with ei^ht ounces of 
 flour, and a salt-s|>o<>uful of Kilt, mix it well 
 together with your hands, and then put it all 
 of a heap, ami make a hole in the middle; 
 break one egg in it, stir it well together 
 with your finger, and by degrees infuse as 
 much water as will make it of a still paste: 
 roll it out two or three time*, with the roll- 
 ing-pin, and tlien roll it large enough to re- 
 ceive thirteen ounces of apples. It will look 
 neater if boiled in a basin, well buttered, 
 than wlx'n Ixiiled in a pudding-cloth, well 
 floured; boil it an hour and three-quarters: 
 but tile surest way is to stew tl)e apples first 
 in a .-tew pan, with a wine-glassful of water, 
 and then one hour ill Uiil it. Some people 
 like it flavored with cloves and lemon-peel, 
 and sweeten il with two ounces of sugar. 
 ( ii xiscl terries, currants, raspberries, and cher- 
 ries, damsons, anil various plums and fruits, 
 :ire made into pudding- with the same crust 
 directed fur apple puddings. 
 
 APPLE, A LA FRAN- 
 
 C USK. 'J'o make the entremets proper- 
 Iv, it is necessary to have a mould in the 
 form of a dome lour inches deep and six in 
 diameter; this mould and its lid should tx> 
 pierced all over, the same 80 a skimmer. 
 Tliere should be a rim round the lid of the 
 dome tlmt it may cover it so closely that all 
 air may lie excluded. 
 
 id thirty small red apples 
 and cut them into quarters; toss them in a 
 steupan with four ounces of fine sugar 
 (over which must be grated the rind of an 
 orange), and four ounce* of butter luke- 
 warm; then place the stewpan oxer the 
 rtove, with lire on die cover. \\- 
 
 re done, pour them into a dish. 
 WUhtthej are cooling inix up three-quar- 
 ters of a pound of stiff paste ; then roll out 
 14 
 
 half of it to the thickness of die eighth of an 
 inch. With Uiis crust line die inside of 
 your mould, which must be previously well 
 battered. Be careful that tlie paste lays 
 i|iiite flat, leaving a piece all round de edge 
 of tlie mould, then put in die best quarters 
 of die apples, and fill up die mould with the 
 rest of the apples and their liquor, then roll 
 out die rest of tlie paste very thin, into two 
 parts, cut in rounds. Slightly moisten the 
 paste which you have left round tlie edge of 
 die mould, and place upon it one of the 
 rounds of paste, pinching die edges carefully 
 together, then slighdy moisten, and place 
 upon it your other round piece of paste, 
 pinching the edge of this widi the others to 
 make it quite close, then cover diem widi 
 die lid of die mould well buttered. 
 
 Now, turn your mould over into die mid- 
 dle of a napkin, and tie up the corners of it 
 close over die top of the dome, and put it 
 into a saucepan (nine inches deep and nine 
 wide) full of boiling water; and let il be 
 kept constantly Ixiiling for an hour and a 
 half; when it has lx>iled for this time, take 
 it out of the sauce[>an, untie the napkin, 
 take out die mould, remove die lid, place 
 the mould on a dish, and thru carefully take 
 it off from die pudding; strew fine sugar aH 
 over your pudding, and serve it quite hot. 
 
 ARROW-ROOT. From a quart 
 
 of new milk take a small tea-cupful, and 
 mix it with two large spoonfuls of arrow- 
 root. Boil the remainder of die milk, and 
 stir it amongst die arrow-root; add, when 
 nearly cold, four well-beaten yolks of eggs, 
 w ith two ounces of pounded loaf sugar, 
 and the same of fresh butter broken into' 
 (mall bits; season widi grated nutmeg. Mix 
 it well togedier, and bake it in a buttered 
 dish fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 AUi\T MARY'S. Of bloom 
 
 raisins stoned, currants nicely cleaned, suet 
 finely minced, bread grated, apples minced, 
 and brown sugar, a quarter of a pound of 
 each ; four well-beaten eggs, a tea-spoonful 
 of pounded ginger, half a one of salt, half a 
 nutmeg grated, and one glass of brandy; 
 mix all the ingredients well, and boil it in a 
 doth for two hours. Serve widi a sauce of 
 melted butter, a glass of wine, and some 
 sugar. 
 
 BARLEY. Take a pound of 
 
 pearl barley well washed, three quarts of 
 new milk, one quart of cream, and half a 
 pound of double refined sugar, a grated nut- 
 meg, and some salt ; mix diem well togedier, 
 then put them into a deep pan, and bake it ; 
 then take it out of the oven, and nut into it 
 six eggs well beaten, six ounces of beef mar- 
 row, and a quarter of a pound of grated
 
 ' PUDDINGS ; 
 
 158 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 bread ; mix all well together, then put it in- 
 to another pan, bake it again, and it will be 
 excellent. 
 
 BATTER, BAKED OR BOIL- 
 ED. Break three eggs in a basin with 
 as much salt as will lie on a sixpence; 
 leat thorn well together, and then add four 
 ounces of flour; beat it into a smooth bat- 
 ter, and by degrees add half a pint of milk: 
 have your saucepan ready boiling, and but- 
 ter an earthen mould well, put the pudding 
 in, and tie it tight over with a pudding- 
 cloth, and boil it one hour and a quarter. 
 Or, put it in a dish that you have well but- 
 tered and bake it three-quarters of an hour. 
 Currants washed and nicked clean, or rai- 
 sins stoned, are good in this pudding, and 
 it is then called a black cap: or, add loaf 
 sugar, and a little nutmeg and ginger with- 
 out the fruit, it is very good dial way; 
 serve it with wine satire. 
 
 BATTER. Take six ounces 
 
 of fine flour, a little salt, and three eggs; 
 beat it- well with a little milk, added 
 by degrees till the batter become smooth; 
 make it the thickness of cream; put into 
 a buttered pie-dish, and bake three-quarters 
 of an hour : or into a buttered and floured 
 basin, tied over tight with a cloth: boil one 
 and a half hour, or two hours. 
 
 take it up, remove the cloth, turn it down- 
 wards in a deep dish, and when wanted take 
 away the basin or mould. 
 
 BEEF.STEAK,BAKED. 
 
 Make a batter of milk, two eggs, and flour, 
 or, which is much lietter, potatoes boiled and 
 mashed through a cullender ; lav a little of 
 it at the bottom of die dish ; then put in the 
 steaks, prepared as above, and very well 
 seasoned; pour the remainder of the batter 
 over diem, and bake it. 
 
 BISCUIT. Pour a pint 
 
 of boiling milk over three Naples biscuits 
 grated; cover it close; when cold add die 
 yolks of four eggs, two whiles, nutmeg, a 
 little brandy, half a spoonful of Hour, and 
 some sugar. Boil it an hour in a basin. 
 
 BATTER, WITHOUT 
 
 EGGS. Mix six spoonfuls of flour with a 
 small portion of a quart of milk ; and when 
 smooth add the remainder of die milk, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, two tea-spoonfuls of grated 
 ginger, and two of tincture of saffron ; stir 
 all together well, and boil it an hour. Fruit 
 may be added or not. 
 
 BEEF-STEAK. Get mmp- 
 
 steaks, not too thick, beat diem with a chop- 
 per, cut them into pieces about half the size 
 of your hand, and trim off all the skin, sin- 
 ews, &c. ; have ready an onion |x?eled and 
 chopped fine, likewise some potatoes peeled 
 and cut into slices a quarter of an inch 
 diick; rub die inside of a basin or an oval 
 plain mould with butter, sheet it with paste 
 as directed for boiled puddings, season die 
 steaks widi pepper, salt, and a little grated 
 nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then anodier 
 of potatoes, atid so on till it is full, occasion- 
 ally throwing in part of the chopped onion ; 
 add to it half a gill of mushroom ketchup, a 
 table-spoonful of lemon -pickle, and half a 
 gill of water or veal broth ; roll out a top, 
 and close it well to prevent the water getting 
 in; rinse a clean cloth in hut water, sprinkle 
 a little flour over it, and tie up the pudding; 
 have ready a large pot of water boiling, 
 put it in, and boil it two hours and a half; 
 
 BOSTON APPLE. Peel one 
 
 dozen and a half of good apples ; take out 
 die cores, cut them small, put into a stewpan 
 that will just hold diem, with a little water, 
 a little cinnamon, two cloves, and the peel 
 of a lemon ; stew over a slow fire till quite 
 soft, dien sweeten widi moist sugar, and 
 pass it through a hair sieve; add to it die 
 | yolks of four eggs and one white, a quarter 
 I of a pound of good butter, half a nutmeg, 
 die peel of a lemon grated, and die juice of 
 one lemon: beat all well together; line die 
 inside of a pie-dish with gnod puff paste; 
 put in the pudding, and bake half an hour. 
 
 BRANDY. Line a mould widi 
 
 jar-raisins .stoned, or dried cherries, dien 
 hy thin slices of French roll ; next put a lay- 
 er of ratafias or macaroons, then the fruit, 
 rolls, and cakes, in succession, until die 
 mould be full, pouring in at times, two 
 glasses of brandy. Beat foureggs, jroici and 
 whites separately, put to them a pint of milk 
 or cream, lightly sweetened, half a nutmeg, 
 and the rind of half a lemon grated. Pour 
 it into die mould, and when the solid has 
 imbibed it all, flour a cloth, tie it tight over, 
 and Ixiil an hour; keep the mould the right 
 side upwards. 
 
 BREAD AND BUTTER. 
 
 Cut thin slices of bread and butter, without 
 the crust, lay some in the bottom of a dish, 
 then put a layer of well-cleaned currants, or 
 any preserved fruit; dien more bread and 
 butter, and so on till the dish is nearly filled; 
 mix with a quart of milk four weli-l)eaten 
 eggs, three table-spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 or rose water; sweeten it well widi brown 
 sugar, and pour it over die bread and butter, 
 and let it soak for two or three hours before 
 Iteing baked. It will take nearly an hour. 
 Serve with a sauce, in a sauce-tureen, made 
 widi a tea-cupful of currant wine, a table-
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 159 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 spoonful of brown sugar, three of water, and 
 a bit of butter the size of a walnut, stirred till 
 boiling hot. 
 
 BREAD. (1) Cut two or three 
 
 slices of bread rather thin, and without the 
 crust, put them in a dish, and pour over 
 them half a pint of boiling milk ; let it stand 
 till cold, and then mash the bread; lay into 
 the bottom of a pudding dish a layer of pre- 
 served gooseberries, then add the bread ; 
 sweeten well a pint of good milk, and mix 
 with it three well-beaten eggs with two ta- 
 ble-epoonftild of rose water; pour it over the 
 bread, and bake it for an hour. Before 
 serving, nutmeg may be grated over the top. 
 
 BREAD. (2) Make a pint of 
 
 bread-cruinbe ; put them in a stewpan with 
 aa much milk as will cover them, the peel 
 of a lemon, a little nutmeg grated, and a 
 small piece of cinnamon; boil about ten 
 minutes ; sweeten with powdered loaf sugar ; 
 take out the cinnamon, and put in four eggs ; 
 beat all well together, and bake half an hour, 
 or boil rather more than an hour. 
 
 PLAIN BREAD. Make five 
 
 Ounces of bread-crumbs ; put them in a ba- 
 sin; jxmr three-quarters of a pint of boiling 
 milk over them; put a plate over the top to 
 keep in die steam ; let it stand twenty min- 
 utes, then beat it up quite smooth with two 
 Ounces of sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg. 
 Break I'. in eggs on a plate, leaving out one 
 white; beat them well, ami add tliem to the 
 pudding. Stir it all well together, and put it 
 in a mould that has been well buttered and 
 floured ; tie a cloth over it, and boil it one 
 hour. 
 
 BUTTER-MILK. Turn two 
 
 qnaris of new milk with one of butter-milk; 
 drain oil' the \\liey, and mix with the curd 
 the grated crumb of a lwo|K-miy roll, the 
 grated peel of a lemon, nearly a whole nut- 
 meg grated, half a pint of rich cream, six 
 ounces of clarified butter, and the beaten 
 yolk< (if nine, and the whites of f 
 
 i! witll, and bake it with or without 
 a puff paste, tor three-quarters of an hour. 
 It may be boiled. 
 
 CAMP. Put into a saucepan 
 
 half a pint of water, a quarter nf a pomnof 
 butter, a tal>le-s|HMinfnl of 'mown m 
 
 the peel of half a lemon or orange. Let it 
 just come to a txiil. take it off, and stir in u 
 quarter of a pound of sifted lloiir ; mix it 
 perfect U smooth, and vvhcn eold, beat in 
 four well-lx ateii eggs. Half till twelve yel- 
 low tea -en | t, and bake them in a quick 
 cuen. Sine them witli a sauce of wine, 
 sugar, and butter, in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 CARROT. Pound in a mortar 
 
 the red part of two large boiled carrots ; add 
 a slice of grated bread, or pounded biscuit, 
 two ounces of melted butter, the same quan- 
 tity of sugar, a table-spoonful of marma- 
 lade, or a bit of orange-peel minced ; half a 
 tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and four well- 
 beaten eggs; mix all well together; bake it 
 in a dish lined with puff paste. 
 
 CALF'S FEET. Pick all 
 
 the meat off three well-boiled calf's feet; 
 chop it finely, as also half a pound of fresh 
 beef suet ; grate the cnimb of a penny loaf; 
 cut like straws an ounce of orange-peel, and 
 the same of citron ; beat well six eggs, and 
 grate a small nutmeg ; mix all diese ingre- 
 dients well together, with a glass of brandy 
 or rum, and boil it in a cloth nearly three 
 hours. Serve with a sweet sauce. 
 
 CHERRY, ANGLO FRAN- 
 
 CAIS. Pick two pounds of fine ripe 
 cherries, and mix them with a quarter of a 
 pound of picked red currants, (having ex- 
 tracted the seeds), and six ounces of powder 
 sugar. Make your pudding as directed in 
 the receipt for apple pudding, with Musca- 
 del raisins. You may make use of rasp- 
 berries instead of currants ; or mix red or 
 white currants and raspberries. 
 
 CHEESE. (1) Grate one 
 
 pound of mild cheese; beat well four eggs, 
 oil one ounce of butter ; mix these ingredi- 
 ents together with one gill of cream, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of grated and sifted 
 bread, and Lake it in a dish or tin lined 
 widi puff paste. 
 
 CHEESE. (2) Grate a quarter 
 
 of a pound of good cheese, |Mit it into a sauce- 
 pan with half a pint of ^md milk, and nearly 
 two ounces of grated bread, and one beaten 
 
 -tir it till the clu e.-c be dissolved; [Kit 
 it into a biitten-d di-l>. and brown it in a 
 Dutch oven. .Serve it quite hot. 
 
 CITRON. (1) Mix together a 
 
 pint of cream and the \olUs of MX i-^*; add 
 to this four ounces of iji-.e me of 
 
 citron, shred line, two s|XH>nfiilsnf flour, and 
 a little nutmeg; place this mixture in a deep 
 dish, bake it in a hot men, and turn it out. 
 
 CITRON. (2) The yolks of three 
 
 eggs beaten, half a pint i.i -|>oon- 
 
 lul of (lour, two ounces of citron cut thin; 
 , M; ilu- iii'o large cups 
 buttered; l;:ike them in a t .leralily quick 
 oven ; when done, turn them out of the cups, 
 and serve. 
 
 COCOA-MT. Quarter pound
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 160 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 Cocoa-nut grated : same of powdered sugar ; 
 three and half ounces butter ; whites of six 
 eggs ; half tea-spoon of rose-water, and half 
 glass of wine and brandy mixed. Take the 
 thin brown skin from off the meat, and wash 
 the pieces in cold water, and wipe dry. 
 Grate a quarter pound fine. Stir the butter 
 and sugar to a cream, and add the liquor 
 and rose-water to them. Beat the whites 
 of the eggs till they stand alone, and then 
 stir them into the butter and sugar ; after- 
 wards sprinkle in the grated nut, and stir 
 hard all the time. Put puff paste into the 
 bottom and sides of the dish, pour in the 
 mixture, and bake in a moderate oven 
 about half an hour. Grate loaf sugar over 
 it, when cold. 
 
 COTTAGE POTATO OR 
 
 CAKE. Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of 
 pounds of potatoes: beat them up into a 
 .smooth batter, with about three-quarters of 
 a pint of milk, two ounces of moist sugar, 
 and two or three beaten eggs. Bake it 
 about three-quarters of an hour. Three 
 ounces of currants or raisins may be added. 
 Leave out the milk, and add three ounces of 
 butter, it will make a very nice cake. 
 
 COTTAGE. Six ounces of 
 
 currants, half a pound of minced suet, and 
 the same quantity of grated bread, half a 
 grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of white 
 wine, or rose water ; mix all well together, 
 with the beaten yolks of five eggs, to a stiff 
 paste, and with floured hands roll it into 
 twelve or thirteen small puddings in the form 
 of sausages ; fry them gently in butter till of 
 a nice brown ; roll them well in die frying- 
 pan. Serve with pounded loaf sugar strewed 
 over diem, and widi a sweet sauce. They 
 may be boiled. 
 
 CRANBERRY. Stir into a 
 
 quart of batter, made stiffer than for batter 
 pudding, about a pint of cranberries, and 
 boil as usual. Or, make a paste as for apple 
 pudding, and put in die cranberries, with 
 molasses sufficient to sweeten dieir acidity. 
 Eaten with sweet sauce. 
 
 CURD, BOILED. Rub the 
 
 curd of two gallons of milk, well drained, 
 through a sieve ; then mix with it six eggs, 
 a little cream, two spoonfuls of orange- 
 flower water, half a nutmeg grated, three 
 spoonfuls of flour, and thive spoonfuls of 
 bread-crumbs, half a pound of currants, and 
 half a pound of raisins stoned. Let it boil 
 for one hour, in a thick cloth well floured. 
 
 CURRANT. A pound of cur- 
 rants, a pound of suet, five eggs, four spoon- 
 
 fuls of flour, half a nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of 
 ginger, a little powder sugar and a little 
 salt; boil diis for three horn's. 
 
 CURRANT DRY. Chop a 
 
 pound of suet, and mix it with a pound of 
 Hour, half a pound of currants, (well wash- 
 ed), a tra-spooi it'ui of |xninded ginger, half a 
 spoonful of tincture of saffron, and a little 
 salt ; stir in a sufficient quantity of water, 
 to make it a proper consistence; tie it in a 
 buttered cloth, and boil it for an hour ; serve 
 it with melted tatter, white wine, and sugar. 
 
 CUSTARD. Boil a pint of 
 
 milk, and a quarter of a pint of good cream ; 
 thicken with flour and water made perfectly 
 smooth, till it is stiff enough to bear an egg 
 on it ; break in the yolks of five eggs ; sweet- 
 en with powdered loaf sugar; grate in a 
 little nutmeg and the peel of a lemon: add 
 half a glass of good brandy; then whip the 
 whites of the five eggs till quite stiff, and 
 mix gently all togedier: line a pie-dish with 
 good puff paste, and bake half an hour. 
 N. B. Ground rice, potato flour, panada, 
 and all puddings made from powders, are, 
 or may be, prepared in die same way. 
 
 DAMSON. Make a batter 
 
 with three well-beaten eggs, a pint of milk, 
 and of flour and brown sugar four table- 
 spoonfiils each; stone a pint of damsons, 
 and mix them with the batter; boil it in a 
 buttered basin for an hour and a half. 
 
 EGG. Melt a quarter of a 
 
 pound of tatter, and when nearly cold, mix 
 well widi it die following ingredients: ten 
 well-beaten yolks and two whites of eggs, 
 half a pint of rich cream, half a pound of 
 good brown sugar, two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, a grated nutmeg, and a glass of bran- 
 dy; bake it widi or without a lining of puff 
 paste. 
 
 FRUIT SUET. Of finely 
 
 minced suet, flour, grated bread, and clean- 
 ed currants, a quarter of a pound each ; a 
 tea-spoonful of pounded ginger, one of salt, 
 two ounces of brown sugar, and a tea-cup- 
 ful of milk; mix all the ingredients well to- 
 gether, and boil it in a cloth for two hours. 
 Serve with a sweet sauce. 
 
 FAMILY. Mix with a pound 
 
 of flour half a pound of raisins stoned and 
 chopped, die same quantity of minced suet, 
 a little salt, and milk or water sufficient to 
 make it into a stiff batter; tail it for five 
 hours. Serve with milted tatter poured 
 over it. Two well-beaten eggs may be 
 added.
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 161 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 G9OSEBERRY, BOILED. 
 
 This pudding is made in the same manner 
 as Apple pudding. 
 
 1M>I\\. (1) It i? a good plan 
 
 to make this pudding the night before. It 
 requires a great deal of boiling, say four 
 or five hours. Sifted meal and warm milk 
 stirred together pretty stiff; salt and suffi- 
 cient molasses added. Boil in a stout bag, 
 or tiu'litly covered pan; let not the water 
 get in, and be careful in tyinu' to leave room 
 for the meal to swell. Ix;t the milk you use 
 be warm, not scalding. \ou may add 
 chop|x,'d suet, which is. very much liked by 
 some, and likewise ginger, if preferred. If 
 you have not milk, water will answer. 
 
 INDIAN. (2) Boil in a quart of 
 
 good milk a tea-cupfiil of Indian meal, stir 
 it constantly till thick, sweeten it with trea- 
 cle or brown Miuar, and stir in two well- 
 beaten eirus, and an ounce of butter; bake 
 it in a Dutch oven for half an hour. Haifa 
 grated nutmeg may be added, and it may be 
 {8. A boiled Indian meal 
 puddinir is made in the same way, and after 
 Deng mixed wi;h or without eggs in it, it is 
 tied in a buttered and floured cloth, and boil- 
 ed for two hours. It is eaten with cold or 
 melted butter. 
 
 JELLY. Beat to a light cream 
 
 ten ounces of fresh butter, then add by de- 
 grees six well-beaten yolks of eggs, and half 
 a pound of loaf sugar pounded ; stir in two 
 or three table-spoonfuls of rose water; beat 
 to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, mix 
 them in lightly ; bake it five-and-twenty min- 
 utes in a dish lined with puff paste. 
 
 JENETON. Butter a mould, 
 
 and ornament it with raisins in festoons, or 
 in any other form; line it with sponge bis- 
 cuit, and fill it up with a mixture of ratafia 
 and sponge biscuit, then pour a rich custard 
 over the whole, and let it stand tor two 
 hours, adding more custard as it soaks into 
 the biscuit. The mould being quite full, tie 
 a cloth over it, and boil it for about an hour. 
 
 LEMON. (1) Peel four lemons 
 
 thin; boil them till they are tender; rub 
 them through a hair sieve, and preserve the 
 fine pulp. Take a pound of \aples biscuits, 
 a little grated nutmeg, and two ounces of 
 fresh I Hitler, and pour over them some boil- 
 in.: milk or cream in whir-h a stick of cin- 
 naiii'xi In- lieen Ixiiled. Whi-n cold, mix 
 with tin-in lh- |Milp of the Ic-in ms, and eight 
 eggs well Ix-ateu; sweeten an-..rding to 
 
 ami it" you choose, add brandy. Edge 
 a dish with yood puff paste, put in the mix- 
 tine; garnish the top with MI in;:- f paste, 
 14* 
 
 as for tartlets, and bake it ia a moderately 
 heated oven. 
 
 LEMON. (2) Put half a pound 
 
 of fresh Imtter with half a pound of loaf su- 
 gar, into a saucepan, and keep it stirring 
 over the fire till it boils; put it into an 
 earthen pan, and grate the rind of a large 
 lemon into it, and let it stand till cold ; beat 
 eight eggs, and squeeze the juice of the lemon 
 on them; mix the sugar and butter with 
 them ; put some rich puff paste at the bottom 
 of a dish, then put in the preparation, and 
 add bits of candied lemon-peel when you 
 have put in the preparation. Bake with 
 great care. 
 
 LEMON. (3) Boil in water, 
 
 in a closely covered saucepan, two large 
 lemons till quite tender; take out the seeds, 
 and pound the lemons to a paste ; add a 
 quarter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 the same of fresh butter ! ream, 
 
 and the yolks of three well-l)eateii e^'.s; mix 
 all together, and kike it in a tin lined with 
 puff paste; take it out, strew over the top 
 grated loaf sugar, and serve it upon a napkin. 
 
 MACARONI. (1) Simmer half a 
 
 pound of macaroni in plenty of water, and a 
 table-spoonful of salt, till it is tender; but 
 take care not to have it too soft ; though ten- 
 der, it should be firm, and the form entirely 
 preserved, and no part beginning to melt (this 
 caution will serve for tlie preparation of all 
 macaroni). Strain the water from it; beat 
 up five yolks and the whites of two eg!*s ; take 
 half a pint of the best cream, and the < 
 of a iowl, and some thin slice- of ham. 
 Mince the breast of the fowl with the ham; 
 add them with from two to three table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-grated cheese, and sea- 
 son with pep|>er and salt. Mix all these 
 with tlie macaroni, anil put into a pudding- 
 mould well buttered, and then let it steam in 
 a stewpan of boiling water for about an 
 hour, and serve quite hot, with rich gravy 
 (as in Omelet). 
 
 MACARONI. (2) Take an ounce 
 
 or two of the pipe sort of macaroni, and 
 simmer it in a pint of milk, and a bit of 
 lemon-peel and cinnamon, till tender; put it 
 into a dish, with milk, three eggs, but only 
 one white, some sugar, nutmeg, a spoonful 
 of almond-water, and half a glass of raisin 
 wine; lay a nice paste round the edge of the 
 dish, and jxit it in the oven to bake. If 
 you choose you may put in a layer of orange- 
 marmaLtde", or raspberry-jam : in this case 
 you must not |xit in the almond-water or 
 ratafia. 
 
 MARROW. Put into a 
 
 mug
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 162 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 the crumb of a pound loaf, and pour over it 
 a pint and a half of boiling milk ; cover it 
 closely for an hour ; cut into small bits half 
 a pound of marrow, stone and cut a quarter 
 of a pound of raisins, take the same quantity 
 of nicely-cleaned currants, beat well six eggs, 
 a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, and the 
 same of nutmeg/; mix all thoroughly with the 
 bread and milk, sweeten it well with brown 
 sugar, and bake it, with or without a bor- 
 der of puff paste round the dish, three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. It may be baked in a 
 Dutch oven, and after baking it for three- 
 quarters of an hour, put a tin cover over 
 the top, and place the dish upon a gridiron, 
 over a slow fire, and let it remain for fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 . MILLET. Wash four table- 
 spoonfuls of the eed, tisil it in a quart of 
 milk with grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, 
 and stir in, when a little cooled, an ounce of 
 fresh butter; sweeten with brown sugar, 
 and add the well-beaten yolks of four, and 
 the whites of two eggs, and a glass of wine 
 or spirits. Bake it in a buttered dish. 
 
 MY. Beat up the yolks and 
 
 whites of three eggs ; strain them through a 
 sieve (to keep out the treddles), and gradu- 
 ally add to them about a quarter pint of milk ; 
 stir these well together. Rub together in a 
 mortar two ounces of moist sugar and as 
 much grated nutmeg as will lie on a shilling; 
 stir them into die eggs and milk ; then put 
 in four ounces of flour, and beat it into a 
 smooth batter ; by degrees stir into it seven 
 ounces of suet (minced as fine as possible) 
 and three ounces of bread crumbs. Mix all 
 thoroughly together at least half an hour be- 
 fore you put the pudding into the pot. Put it 
 into an earthen pudding mould, that is well 
 buttered. Tie a cloth over it very tight; 
 put it into boiling water, and boil it three 
 hours. Half a pound of raisins cut in half 
 added to the above, will make a most admi- 
 rable plum pudding. Grated lemon-peel is 
 also fine. 
 
 Don't let the water cease to boil : it will 
 spoil the pudding. And it is always best 
 that puddings be mixed an hour or two be- 
 fore put into the pot, the ingredients get 
 amalgamated, and the whole becomes richer 
 and fuller of flavor. 
 
 The above pudding may be baked in an 
 oven, or under meat, as \orkshire pudding, 
 only add half pint more milk. Should it be 
 above an inch and quarter in thickness, it 
 will take full two hours; and requires care- 
 ful watching; for if die top gets burned, a 
 bad flavor will pervade the whole pudding. 
 Or, butter some tin patty-pans or saucers, 
 fill diem with pudding, and bake alxuit an 
 hour in a Dutch oven. 
 
 NASSAU. Put into a sauce- 
 pan die whole yolks of eight, and the whites 
 of four eggs, half a pound of pounded loaf 
 sugar, and one pound of fresh butter; stir it 
 over a slow fire for nearly half an hour; line 
 a dish with thin puff paste and lay over die 
 bottom a diick layer of orange marmalade, 
 and then put in the pudding. Bake it for 
 fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 NEW COLLEGE. Haifa pound 
 
 of fresh beef suet, finely minced, the same of 
 currants, a quarter of a pound of grated 
 bread, and of pounded sweet biscuit, half a 
 teal-spoonful of salt, a small nutmeg grated, 
 an ounce of candied orange-peel minced; 
 mix fill together with two or three well- 
 beaten eggs, and fry them in butter till of a 
 light brown; shake the pan, and turn them 
 frequently till done enough. Serve widl 
 pounded loaf sugar strewed thickly over 
 diem. 
 
 NEWMARKET. Put on to 
 
 boil a pint of good milk, with half a lemon- 
 peel, a little cinnamon, and a bay leaf; boil 
 gently for five or ten minutes; sweeten widl 
 loaf sugar ; break the yolks of five, and die 
 whites of three eggs, into a basin ; beat diem 
 well, and add the milk: beat all well togeth- 
 er, and strain through a fine hair sieve, or 
 tamis : have some bread and butter cut very 
 thin; lay a layer of it in a pie-dish, and then 
 a layer of currants, and so on till the dish is 
 nearly full; then pour the custard over it, 
 and bake half an hour. 
 
 NEWCASTLE, OR CABI- 
 NET. Butter a half melon mould, or quart 
 basin, and stick all round with dried cher- 
 ries, or fine raisins, and fill up with bread 
 and butter, &c. as in the above ; and steam 
 it an hour and a half. 
 
 NOTTINGHAM. Peel six 
 
 good apples; take out the core with the 
 point of a small knife, or an apple corer, 
 if you have one ; but be sure to leave die 
 apples whole; fill up where you took the 
 core from with sugar; place them in a pie- 
 dish, and pour over them a nice light batter, 
 prepared as for batter pudding, and bake 
 an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 OATMEAL. Sift a pound 
 
 of oatmeal, chop three-quarters of a pound 
 of suet, mince some onions, and mince all 
 together; season well with pcp|>er and salt; 
 half fill the skins, and boil and dress diem 
 as directed in die receipt for ox-blood pud- 
 dings. Some people think a little sugar an 
 improvement. 
 
 . ORANGE.(l)The yolks of six
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 163 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 and the whites of three eggs, well beaten; 
 three table-spoonfuls of orange marmalade, 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar pounded, 
 the game of melted butter ; three table-spoon- 
 fiils of grated broad, and a quarter of a pint 
 of cream; mix all well together, and liake 
 them in a dish lined with puff paste. 
 
 ORANGE. (2) Cut in half 
 
 time !;tr_'r Seville oranges, squeeze and 
 strain the juice; boil the skin* till quite 
 fiofl in a good deal of water, pound them in 
 a mortar, and mix them with nine lx*aten 
 yolk.-' and lour whites of eggs, nearly a 
 pound of pounded loaf sugar, the juice of 
 the or,in^'i, and half ;i pound of molted 
 butter, liake it in a dish lined wi 
 
 paste for half an hour. 
 
 PEAS. Put a quart of split 
 
 pens to soak for two hours into warm wa- 
 ter; boil them in soft water, with a bit of 
 butter, till sufficiently tender to praMtbrovA 
 a sieve; pulp tltein, and add the lx-aten \olk 
 of one ciji:. a little |x-pper and salt, ami an 
 Oi line of bnH< T. Tie it into a buttered and 
 flotirari cloth, and put it on in boiling wa- 
 ter; Imil il nearlv an hour. 
 
 PLUM. (1) One pound of fresh 
 
 beef suet, finely iiiineeil. one pound of raisins 
 atoned. lite table-spoonfuls of flour, five of 
 brown sar, live well-beaten yolks, and 
 three white- of eirgs, a tca-epoonful of salt; 
 mix all the ingredients thoroughly, and boil 
 it in a rloih tiir lour or live hours. Serve 
 with Dialed loaf sugar, and melted butter 
 poured over it. 
 
 PLUM. (2) One pound of rai- 
 sins, stoned and cut in li.ilf: one pound of cur- 
 rant.-, picked, washed, and dried: one |H.und 
 beef suet i ho|>|x-d tine: a |xnind of 
 bread, or half pound cadi of Crated bread 
 and lloin : ei^lu o^* : quarter |x>nod of su- 
 gar: nalt-s|xio:i of suit: lablr-s|x>ou of ciuna- 
 
 ind mace mixed: two grated nutmeg: 
 each of wine and brandy: quarter 
 jxrtiml of -nu'-'i', ami a pint of milk. Pie- 
 pare all the day Ix-fore, except the e^s, that 
 yon ma\ mix llie-u the next iimniing: ii re- 
 quires MX hours Ixiilini;. J5<-at llm eggs 
 lightly, tlieu put to them half (he milk and 
 Ix-at (ou'i'iher. Stir in the llour and bread; 
 tJien (lie "ii^ar by dc^r, . - ; then the suet and 
 
 fruit; tin- fruit to Ix- uell 11 ed to keep it 
 
 from finking. Stir hard. .Now add the 
 spice and liquor, and th" remainder of the 
 milk. It' it is not thick enough, add more 
 bread or llour; but if there ! too much 
 liread or llour tlie pnddiui; will ! hi-avy. 
 Wet the doth in !> lilinn u.iti i . shake it out, 
 and sprinkle it with llour. l.i\ it in a di-li 
 ami |xmr into it the pudding Tie it tiuht, 
 
 allowing room to swell. Boil six hours. 
 When you turn it out, stick over the out- 
 side blanched almonds in slips or slips of cit- 
 ron, or both. If you add grated lemon-peel 
 to the other ingredients it will much improre 
 the pudding. 
 
 PLUM. (3) One pound of the 
 
 best raisins stoned, half a pound of currants 
 well cleaned, one pound of fresh beef suet 
 finely minced, five table-spoonfuls of grated 
 bread, three of flour, two of brown sugar, 
 one tea-spoonful of pounded ginger, one of 
 cinnamon, and one of salt, six well-beaten 
 eggs, and three wine-glasses of rum, all to 
 lx> mixed thoroughly together the day before 
 it is to be boiled. Boil it in a cloth or 
 mould for four or five hours. Serve with 
 moli.-d butter, or the following sauce: 
 Heat two or three table-spoonfuls of sweet 
 cream, and mix it gradually with two well- 
 Ix-atcu yolks of eggs; add three table-spoon- 
 fuls of white wine, brandy, or rum, and a 
 table-s|xjonful of i-njjar; season with grated 
 nutmeu'. and stir it over the fire till quite 
 hoi; but do not allow it to Ixjil. 
 
 PLUM. (4) Four ounces of 
 
 apples finely minced, the same quantity of 
 currants cleaned and dried, and of grated 
 bread, two ounces of raisins, stoned and 
 minced, two of pounded loaf sugar, half a 
 nutmeg grated, a little candied orange or 
 lemon peel, four well-beaten eggs, one ounce 
 and a half of melted butter just warm; mix 
 all the ingredients well together, and boil it 
 in a buttered sha|>e lor four hours. If the 
 pudding docs not fill the ?hape, add a slice 
 of the crumb of bread at the bottom. Serve 
 with a sweet sauce. 
 
 PLUM, WITHOUT EGGS. 
 
 Haifa |xniud of grated bread, a quarter of a 
 (Niund of !incly-niiucod snot, a table-spoonful 
 of Hour, half a |x>und of currants cleaned, 
 rather more than luo ounces of brown sugar, 
 a L;!:I-- of brandy; mix all lordlier with a 
 .-iilticieiit i|iianlil\ of milk to make it into a 
 stiff Icitter; Ixiif it in a cloth for lixir hours. 
 It mav lie baked, adding half a |mund of 
 stoned raisins, and a little candied orange 
 and lemoii-|Xfl. 
 
 POTATO. (1) Boil three 
 
 lar^'e mealy |>ot:itoos mash them very smooth- 
 ly, with one oonee of Uilter, and two or 
 three table-s|>oontuls of thick cream; add 
 three uoll-lx-aioM .:,'s, a little tail, grated 
 niitnie^. and a table-s|HMinfiil of brown sugar. 
 Beat all well to^dicr, an. I bake it in a Ult- 
 torod dish, fir I. all' an hur in an o\en, and 
 liter* of an hour in a Dutch oven 
 A few ciinant> in i\ l.e addid to tlie pud- 
 ding.
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 164 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 POTATO. (2) Boil half a 
 
 pint of milk, and the same quantity of cream, 
 with a stick of cinnamon, and the peel of 
 a lemon; strain it, and stir in gradually 
 three table-spoonfuls of potato flour, mix it 
 very smoothly, and add six well-beaten eggs ; 
 sweeten with pounded loaf sugar ; stick aU 
 round a buttered tin mould, dried cherries, 
 or stoned raisins, put in the pudding, and put 
 a bit of buttered linen over the top, and then 
 die cover of the mouki ; place it in a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water, boil it for an hour and 
 a half; take care die water does not boil 
 over die mould. Serve with a sweet sauce. 
 
 POTATO-FLOUR. Boil some 
 
 cinnamon, lemon-peel, and sugar, in a quart 
 of milk; strain, and stir it with three table- 
 spoonfuls of potato flour previously mixed 
 smooth with a little cold milk; stir it till it 
 be nearly cold; add four well-beaten eggs, 
 a glass of sweet wine, or two table-spoonfuls 
 of spirits, and a little marmalade. Bake it 
 in a Dutch oven. 
 
 PRUNE. Stew a pound' of 
 
 prunes with half a pint of Port wine, a quarter 
 of a pint of water, and a large table-spoon- 
 fyl of brown sugar; break the stones, and 
 put the kernels with the fruit; spread it 
 OVIT a sheet of put! paste, wet the edges, and 
 roll it into .the ibrmofa bolster; tie it firm- 
 ly in a buttered and floured cloth, and boil 
 it between two and three hours. Serve 
 with sweet wine sauce. 
 
 QUINCE. Take a sufficient 
 
 number of ripe quinces to yield a pound of 
 pulp, to which put half a pound of powder- 
 sugar, cinnamon, and ginger, of each two 
 drachms, pounded ; mix them well. Beat 
 up the yolks of eight eggs in a pint of cream, 
 add die quince, 8cc. stir the whole together, 
 flour a cloth, tie the pudding in, and boil it. 
 
 RATAFIA. Pound, with a lit- 
 tle rose-water, two ounces of blanched sweet 
 almonds, and half a quarter of a pound of 
 ratafia cakes, add the well-beaten yolks of 
 six, and the whites of two eggs, a pint of 
 thick cream, two glasses of white wine, and 
 one ounce of pounded loaf sugar. Bake it 
 in a dish, lined with [tuff paste, for three- 
 quarters of an hour. 
 
 REGENT'S. Rub an earthen- 
 ware mould with butter, and cover the lx>t- 
 tom with bloom niis'ms stoned; cut thin 
 slices of the crumb of bread, butter, and lav- 
 one or two over the raisi'!. ; ; upon that put 
 a layer of ratafia cakes, then one of bread 
 and butter, and raisins; do this till the mould 
 is nearly full, and pour over it (lie following 
 mixtures: a pint of cream \\ell sweetened 
 
 with pounded loaf sugar, and mixed widi 
 four well-beaten yolks of eggs, a glass of 
 brandy, and two table-spoonfuls of ruse-wa- 
 ter ; let it soak one or two hours ; put over 
 die top a piece of writing-paper buttered, 
 and tie over it a clodi. Boil it for one hour 
 and a half, and serve it with wine sauce. 
 
 GROUND RICE, RICH. (1) 
 
 Stir into a quarter of a pound of ground 
 rice, a pint and a half of new milk ; put it 
 into a saucepan, and keep stirring it till it 
 boils; then add diree ounces of melted but- 
 ter, die same quantity of sugar, half a grated 
 nutmeg, and a lea-spoonful of grated lemon- 
 peel; mix it very well, and when cold, add 
 the well-beaten yolks of four, and the white 
 of one egg, with a glass of ratafia, and half 
 a one of orange-flower or rose/ water; bake 
 it in a dish lined widi puff paste for diree- 
 quarters of an hour. Before serving, strew 
 over die top grated loaf sugar. 
 
 GROUND RICE. (2) Mix 
 
 till quite smooth, with a small tea-cupful of 
 ground rice, a quart of good milk, stir it 
 over die fire till it boils, and let it lx>il for 
 three minutes ; put it into a basin, and when 
 nearly cold, add die well-beaten yolks of 
 six, and die whites of two eggs, with a tea- 
 cupful of sweet wine, or a glass of spirits ; 
 put it into a buttered dish, and bake it for 
 diree-quarters of an hour, or for one hour in 
 a Dutch oven, in die same way as the mar- 
 row pudding is done. Any sort of preserve 
 may be put into die bottom of die dish, and 
 a sweet sauce may be served widi it. 
 
 GROUND RICE. (3) Boil 
 
 in a pint of milk a quarter of a pound of 
 flour of rice, with two table-spoonfuls of 
 rose water, and half die peel of a lemon, stir 
 it till diick, take it oft', and mix in a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter, half a grated nut- 
 meg, the well-beaten yolks of four, and the 
 whites of three >gs;s; sweeten it with brown 
 sugar, pick out die lemon-peel, and boil it 
 in a butlei-ed basin, which must be complete- 
 ly filled. Serve with a sauce made with a 
 glass of white wine, 'boiled in melted butter, 
 and sweetened with brown sugar. 
 
 RICE, BAKED OR BOIL- 
 ED. Wash in cold water and piek very 
 clean six ounces of rice, put it in a quart 
 stewpan three parts filled widi cold water, 
 set it on the fire, and let it boil five minutes; 
 pour away die water, and put in one quart 
 of milk, a roll of lemon-peel, and a bit of 
 cinnamon; let it boil gently till die rice is 
 quite tender; it will take at least one hour 
 and a quarter; l>e carefiil to stir it every 
 five minutes'; take it off the fire, and stir in 
 an ounce and a hall" of fresh butter, and beat
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 165 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 op three eggs on a plate, a salt-epoonful of 
 I' sugar; put it into the 
 pudding, and stir it till it is quite smooth; 
 line a pie-dish big enough to hold it \\illi 
 puff paste, notch it round the edge, put in 
 your padding, and l<ake it three-quarters of ' 
 an hour: this will Ix? a nice linn pudding. 
 
 If you like it to eat more like custard, 
 add oin- nioiv e,'g, and half a pint more ; 
 milk; it will l*j letter a little thinner when : 
 boiled; one hour will boil it. if you like 
 it in little puddings, butter small tea-cups, 
 and either bake or boil them, half an hour 
 will do either: V'iu may vary the pudding 
 by putt ing nil raudied lemon or orange peel, 
 minced \ery line. <,r dried cherries, or three 
 ounces of currants, or raisins, or apples 
 minced fine. If the puddings are baked or 
 boiled, ser%e them with white wine sauce, or 
 butter and sugar. 
 
 RICE. Boil a quarter of a 
 
 pound of rice in water till it is soft, then 
 drain it in a .sieve, and pound it in a mor- 
 tar; add five wcll-licaleii \olks of eggs, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, the same pro- 
 portion of sugar, a small nutmeg, ami half 
 die rind of a lemon grated; work them well 
 together flu- uunty minutes, and add a 
 jMiind of cleaned currants; mix it all well 
 and buil it in a pudding clod) for an hour 
 and a half. Serve, with wine sauce. 
 
 RICE, WITHOUT EGGS. 
 
 Weii;h six ounces of rice, .-ix of brown su- 
 gar, and three and a half of fresh butter; 
 break the Uitter into small bits; wa.-h (lie 
 rice in scveial aters : put all into a pudding- 
 di?h, and fill it up \\i:h I^MM! milk ; let it 
 soak some lie. m-. Hake n In a moderate 
 oven for neailv two hours, and as the milk 
 ,11 up the dish with wore, till die 
 rici- U- ,-wciJ <\ and s-oft; then let it brown. 
 
 of sago in several waters (warm) ; then pnt 
 it into a saucepan with a pint of good milk, 
 and a little cinnamon; let it boil till thick, 
 stirring frequently ; pour it into a pan, and 
 lieat up with it half a jx>nnd of fresh butter; 
 add to it the \nlks of eight, and whites of 
 four eggs, beaten separately, half a glass of 
 white v\ iue, sugar according to taste, and a 
 little flour ; mix all together well, and boil 
 it. Serve with sweet sauce. 
 
 SALT. Take a pint of milk, 
 
 four dessert-spoonfuls of flour, a little suet, 
 shred fine, four eggs, salt, and pounded gin- 
 ger; mix first the eggs and milk, then add 
 the flour, &c. ; put more flour, if necessary, 
 to give it consistence ; tie your pudding in 
 a buttered cloth, and boil it two hours. 
 
 SCOTCH. Eight well-beaten 
 
 yolks and diree whites of eggs, half a (xmnd 
 of pounded loaf sugar, a quartet' of a jwund 
 of melted butter, die grated peel and juice 
 of one lemon ; mix all together, ami Uike it 
 in a dish lined with puff paste; turn it out 
 to serve, and strew over die top grated loaf 
 sugar. 
 
 SIPPET. Cut a small loaf into 
 
 extremely diin slices, and put a layer of them 
 at die bottom of a dish, dien a layer of mar- 
 row, or beef suet, a layer of currants, and 
 then a la\er of bread "again, kc., and so 
 continue until die dish is filled; mix four 
 eggs, well beaten, widi a quart of cream, a 
 nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and 
 pour over; set it in (he oven, it will take 
 half an hour baking. 
 
 RICH. Put into a saucepan 
 
 lour ounces of fresh butter, fix ounces of 
 pound . six of marmalade, and 
 
 siv on . well U-aten; stir all one 
 
 way till it l>e t!i 'loiighK warmed; it mn.-t 
 not U- alloui.l I i l:.,il. Hake it in a dish 
 
 SAGO. (1) Boil five table-spoon- ! 
 
 ful.- of Kigo, well picked and washed, in a 
 quart . half I he |xt.'l of a lemon, ; 
 
 ami a Mick of cinnamon; \\Iieii it is i at her 
 thick, add half a pint of \\intc wine, and 
 sweeten it with good brown sugar; beat six 
 yolks and three whites, of eggs, pick out die 
 MHO-ped ami cinnamon, mix all well to- 
 gedk-r, and liake it in a dish witli or with- 
 out 
 
 SHROPSHIRE. Of fresh beef 
 
 suet finely minced, of brown bread grated, 
 and of brown sugar, out; |H)iind each, one 
 nutmeg grated, a tea-cupful of brandy, eiirht 
 well-lx'ateii yolks, and lour whites of eggs; 
 mix all well" together, and boi) it in a cloth 
 or mould for four hours. Serve it with a 
 sauce of melted butter, sugar, and twotable- 
 s|xx>nfult; of brandy. 
 
 SPRING FRUIT. Peel and 
 
 well wash four do/.en sticks of rhubarb: put 
 into a stcHpan with the pudding a lemon, a 
 little cinnamon, and as much moist sugar as 
 will make it quite sweet; set it over a fire, 
 and reduce it to a marmalade ; pass through 
 a hair sieve, and proceed as directed for the 
 Boston pudding, leaving out the lemon-juice, 
 as die rhulKirb will be found sufficiently acid 
 of itself. 
 
 SPEAKER'S. Stone and 
 
 weigh ilnee-qnartere of a pound of raisins. 
 Rub with butter a plain o\al mould, and 
 SAGO. (2) Wash half a pound ' stick upon it some of die raisins, in stripe*
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 166 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 or circles. Cut some thin slices of bread 
 without the crust, dry them awhile before 
 the fire, butter, and cut them into strips 
 about an inch and a quarter wide ; line the 
 mould with part of the bread, then put a 
 layer of raisins, and strew over a table- 
 spoonful of pounded loaf sugar; add a layer 
 of the bread and butter; fill the shape nearly 
 full, putting bread and butter on the top. 
 Mix with a pint of good milk, the well-bea- 
 ten yolks of four eggs, a table-spoouful of 
 sugar, one and a half of rose-water, and a 
 glass of brandy ; pour this over the pudding, 
 and let it soak one or two hours. Bake it 
 three-quarters of an hour. It may be boiled 
 by steam for an hour and a half. 
 
 SQUASH. One good squash 
 
 stewed and well bruised; six large apples 
 stewed tender; mix them well together; 
 add seven spoonfuls of bread crumbs; half 
 pint of milk ; two spoonfuls of rose-water, 
 two of wine ; six eggs ; one grated nutmeg ; 
 salt and sugar to taste. Beat all together till 
 smooth, and put in^a dish lined with puff 
 paste. Bake three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 SUET, WIGGY'S WAY. 
 
 Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three table- 
 spoonfuls; eggs, two; and a little grated 
 ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet 
 as fine as possible, roll it with the rolling- 
 pin so as to mix it well with the flour; beat 
 up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and 
 then mix all together; wet your cloth well 
 in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, put it 
 into boiling water, and boil it an hour and a 
 quarter. Mrs. Glasse has it, " when you 
 have made your water boil, then put your 
 pudding into your pot." 
 
 SUET. Mix six table-spoonfuls of 
 
 grated bread with a pound of finely-minced 
 fresh beef suet, or that of a loin of mutton, 
 one pound of flour, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, 
 six well-beaten eggs, and nearly a pint of 
 milk. Boil it in a cloth four or five hours. 
 Serve it plain, or with a sweet sauce. 
 
 APPLE SUET. Of finely minc- 
 ed fresh mutton suet, grated apples, flour, and 
 brown sugar, six ounces each, half a grated 
 nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of salt, and four well- 
 beaten eggs, all well mixed together; boil- 
 ed for two hours, and served with a sweet 
 sauce. 
 
 SUET, OR DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Chop six ounces of suet very fine; put it in 
 a basin with six ounces of flour, two ounces 
 of bread crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of salt; 
 stir it all well together: beat two eggs on a 
 plate, add to them six table-spoonfuls of 
 milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and 
 
 stir it all well together ; divide it into six 
 dumplings, and tie them separate, previously 
 dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Boil 
 them one hour. This is very good the next 
 day fried in a little butter. The above will 
 make a good pudding, boiled in an earthen 
 ware mould, with die addition of one more 
 egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of 
 suet. Boil it two hours. 
 
 N. B. The most economical way of mak- 
 ing suet dumplings, is to boil them without a 
 cloth in a pot with beef or mutton ; no eggs 
 are then wanted, and the dumplings -are quite 
 as light without: roll I hem in (lour Ixioreyou 
 put them into the pot ; add six ounces of 
 currants washed and picked, and you have 
 currant pudding: or divided into six parts, 
 currant dumplings; a little sugar will im- 
 prove them. 
 
 SWEETMEAT. Slice thin, 
 
 of orange, lemon-peel, and citron, an ounce 
 each ; lay them at the bottom of a dish, lin- 
 ed with a light puff paste; mix with half a 
 pound of butter melted, the yolks of seven 
 eggs and the whites of two, and five ounces 
 of sugar ; pour this over the sweetmeats, and 
 set it in the oven ; it will take rather more 
 than half an hour baking. 
 
 TANSY. Pour over a thick 
 
 slice of the crumb of bread a quart of boiling 
 milk; cover it till cold. Beat the yolks oi 
 four and the whites of two eggs. Pound 
 some tansy with two or three leaves of 
 spinach; squeeze the juice, and put as 
 much of it as will make the pudding a good 
 green color, a glass of brandy, half a grat- 
 ed nutmeg, and four ounces of fresh butter; 
 mix all the ingredients, sweete:i, and put it 
 into a saucepan, and stir it over the fire till 
 it l>e hot. Bake it iu a buttered dish for 
 half an hour. Before serving, strew grated 
 loaf sugar over the top. 
 
 TRA.NSl'AUENT. Put eight 
 
 eggs wfll-beaten i;ito a stcwpan with half 
 a (xjund of sugar, pounded fine, half a pound 
 of butler, and some nutmeg grated. Set it 
 on the fire, ami keep constantly stirring till 
 it thickens. Ti;e:i set it into a basin to 
 cool; put a rich puff paste round the edge 
 of the dish; pour in die pudding, and bake 
 it in a moderate oven. It will cut light 
 and clear. Candied orange and citron may 
 be added, if you think proper. 
 
 TAPIOCA. Put four table- 
 spoonfuls of tapioca into a quart of milk, 
 and let it remain all night, then put a spoon- 
 ful of brandy, some lemon-peel, and a little 
 spice; let mom boil gently, add four eggs, 
 and the whites well beaten, and a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar. Bake it.
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 167 
 
 QUA 
 
 TREACLE. Mix together a 
 
 pound of stoned raisins, three-quarters of a 
 
 pound of shred suet, a |x>und of flour, a pint of 
 milk, a tabfe-opoonful of treacle, grated gin- 
 ger, and pmiiidi-d spice; when well stirred up, 
 tie it in a (loured cloth, and boil it four hours. 
 
 WEST COUNTRY. Mix, with 
 
 four well-beaten eggs, half a pound of apples 
 finely minced, tin- same quantity of grated 
 bread, and of well-cleaned currants, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of In-own sugar, and half a 
 tea-spoon l"n I of grated nutmeg. This pudding 
 may be either lx>iled or baked, and instead 
 of grated bread, lour ounces of whole rice 
 may be used, which iiiu-t lie boiled in milk, 
 strained, and allowed to l>e cold before being 
 mixed uitli the other ingredients. This 
 puddding is Ix/iled one hour and a half, and 
 served with a sweet sauce. 
 
 WHITE. Boil in a quart of 
 
 milk two tal>le-s|XMinfuls of rose-water ; add 
 to two well-beaten eggs, three tabfe-tpooafe]* 
 
 of flour, and a little salt ; stir it into the 
 milk, and if not thick, dredge in a little 
 moie lloiir; just Ix-fore it is taken oil" tlie 
 fire, put in a l>it of fresh butter the si/.e of ;i 
 walnut. Serve it with red currant jelly up- 
 on the top of it. 
 
 WHORTLEBERRY. This 
 
 pudding may ! made Ixjth of flour and in- 
 dian meal. Use a pint of milk, some mo- 
 lasses, and a little salt, stirred quite stiff 
 with meal, and a quart of tarries mixed in 
 with a g|XN>n. Tie the lug loose, and lei it 
 boil lhre' hours. W|K>U made of flour, pre- 
 pare it likr lialler puddings, r.itller still' lo 
 keep tlie Ix-rries from x-ttling. Jkiil two 
 hours. Tie tlie bag loose. 
 
 WILTSHIRE. Mix, with three 
 
 well-beaten e^_'- anil a pint of milk, as much 
 flour as will make it a thick batter, and a 
 little salt; l>eal it for some minutes, slir in 
 gently a large tea-cupful of picke<! red eur- 
 ' rants; boil il in a cloth lor two hours, turn 
 it out upon the dish il is to ! x-rved in, rut 
 it into slices about thrce-qti irlers of an inch 
 thick, Ixit do not separate tllem; put I ( \\eeii 
 each a thin slice of butter, and some brown 
 sugar, and serve it hot. 
 
 - YORKSHIRE, CHDER ROAST 
 MEAT. This pudding i^ an es|x-cially c\- 
 cv llent arrompanimenl to a sirloin of'lx-ef, 
 loin of veal, or any tat and jnicv joint. 
 Six table-spoonfuls of" tloiir, three em, a 
 tea-s|XKMilul of salt, and a pint of milk, so 
 as 1. 1 make a middling .-litf baiter, a little 
 stiller than \..n would for |vincake-: l-at 
 it up well, and take care it is not liunpv ; 
 put a di.-.h under tlie meat, and let the drip- 
 
 pings drop into it till it is quite hot and 
 well greased; then pour in Uie batter; 
 when tlie upper surface is brown and set, 
 turn it, that both sides may be brown alike: 
 if you wish it to cut firm, and tlie pudding 
 an inch thick, it will tuke two hours at a 
 good fire. 
 
 N. B. Tlie true Yorkshire pudding is 
 about half an inch thick when done ; but it 
 is the fashion in London to make them full 
 twice that thickness. 
 
 PUFFS. (1) Roll out puff paste nearly 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and, with a small 
 saucer, or tin cutter of that size, cut it into 
 round pieces: place upon one side raspberry 
 or strawberry jam, or any sort of preserved 
 fruit, or stewed apples; wet the exlges, fold 
 over the other side, and press it round with 
 the linger and thumb. Or cut the paste into 
 tlie form of a diamond, lay on the fruit, and 
 fold over the paste, so as to give it a trian- 
 gular shape. See Paste. 
 
 PUFFS. (2) Put into a saucepan a pint 
 of milk, Ixiil slowly, and'stir in Hour till it 
 IK- very thick, like paste; when cold, mix 
 with it six well-lx'iiien eggs, a table-spoon- 
 ful of sugar, half a nutmeg, and the peel of 
 a small lemon grated, and a table-spoonful 
 of brandy; beat it well together for fifteen 
 minutes, and when quite light, drop it from 
 a de.-.-ert-spoon into a pan of ixiiling clarified 
 suet or lard. Serve with pounded loaf sugar 
 slreucd over them. 
 
 PUFFS OF PRESERVED FRUIT. 
 
 Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good 
 pull" [Kiste, and cut it into pieces four inches 
 square; lay a small qiumtilx ofiiny kind of 
 jam on each, double them oxer, and cut them 
 into square, triangle, or, \\ith a tin cutter, 
 hull' moons; lay them x\ ith pa|xT on a Itiking- 
 platc; ice them, liake them alxmt twenty 
 minute:-, taking care not to color tlie icing. 
 
 PUNCH. See Justice's Sirup. 
 
 Q. 
 
 QUAILS, HUNTERS. Put tlie quails 
 in a saucepan, with a little butter, a bay- 
 leaf, sweet herbs, salt and |x-p|x-r; set them 
 on a fierce fire, and keep -hal.eig them until 
 tliey are tender, when add a dessert-spoonful 
 of llour, half a glass of white wine, and a 
 little stock, when this is thick, and quite 
 hot (xvithont boiling) ; take it from die fire 
 and serve. 
 
 QUAILS, SPANISH. Mix the juice
 
 QUE 
 
 168 
 
 QUI 
 
 of a lemon with some butter, salt, and pep- 
 per; pick, and prepare eight quails, stuff 
 them well with the above mixture; then 
 fasten the legs to the body, leaving the claws 
 free ; truss them a good shape, and put them 
 into a saucepan on slices of bacon, cover 
 them also with slices, add a gravy, moisten- 
 ed with equal portions of white wine and 
 stock; set them on the fire for half an hour; 
 then take them out, drain and untie the 
 birds, place each on a piece of fried bread 
 the size of the quail, and serve with a clear 
 Spanish sauce, with the addition of a little 
 glaze. 
 
 QUAILS, HOT PIE. Make a raised 
 crust in the usual way, spread over the bottom 
 of it some farce cuite mixed widi the livers 
 of the quails, pounded, and some sweet 
 herbs ; take eight quails, take out the thigh 
 bones, and half dress them in a little butter 
 and sweet herbs ; when cold, stuff each with 
 some of the above-mentioned farce, arrange 
 them in the pie, fill up the intestines and the 
 centre with the remainder tf the farce, season 
 it well, lay slices of bacon over the quails ; 
 wet die edges of the paste with water, cover 
 the pie with a very thin crust; do it over 
 with egg, and decorate it according to fancy. 
 Put it into the oven to bake, an hour and a 
 quarter will suffice. When done, raise the 
 top carefully, remove the bacon, take off all 
 the fat, pour in some good gravy, and serve. 
 
 QUAILS, ROASTED. Truss the birds, 
 and stuff them with beef-suet and sweet 
 herbs, both shred very small, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, and nutmeg; fasten them to a 
 spit, and put them to the fire; haste with 
 salt and water when they fn-st begin to get 
 warm; then dredge them with flour, and 
 baste with butter. Put an anchovy, two or 
 three shallots, and the juice of a Seville or- 
 ange into a little rich gravy ; set it on the 
 fire, shake it about, and when the anchovy 
 is dissolved, serve it with the quails. Gar- 
 nish the dish with fried bread crumbs. These 
 birds are sometimes roasted, wrapped first in 
 a slice of bacon, and then in a vine-leaf. 
 They should be kept at a moderate distance 
 from the fire. 
 
 QUAILS, STEWED. Put a little 
 butter worked up with flour, and a few green 
 onions into a slew|xui ; when brown, put 
 in some quails, a glass of wine, the same of 
 stock, parsley, some more small onions, a 
 bay-leaf, and two orthree cloves ; stew diese 
 till the quails are sufficiently done. Garnish 
 your dish with cock's-combs, artichoke bot- 
 toms, fried bread, &c. 
 
 QUEEN'S POTAGE. Draw, wash, 
 and clean three chickens, or young fowls, put 
 
 them into a stewpan, with a bunch of parsley 
 and some well-seasoned boiling veal stock; 
 let it stew for an hour ; take out the fowVs, 
 and pound all the meat to a fine paste in a 
 marble mortar, with the crumb of two penny 
 loaves, previously soaked in the soup, and 
 the yolks of three or four hard boiled eggs; 
 rub all through a sieve, and add it to the 
 soup stirring it well. Put a quart of rich 
 cream on the fire, and stir it till it boils, and 
 then mix it with the soup and serve it quile 
 hot. 
 
 QUEEN OR HEART CAKES. One 
 
 pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter, 
 eight eggs, one pound and a quarter of flour, 
 two ounces of currants, and half a nutmeg 
 grated. Cream the butter, and mix it well 
 with the sugar and spice, then put in half 
 die eggs, and teat it ten minutes add the 
 remainder of the cuns, and work it ten min- 
 utes longer stir in the flour lighllv, and the 
 currants afterwards, thon take small tin 
 pans of any shape (hearts the most usual), 
 rub die inside of each with butter, fill and 
 bake them a few minutes in a hot oven, on 
 a sheet of matted wire, or on a baking plate 
 when done, remove them as early as pos- 
 sible from the pans. 
 
 QUEEN'S DROPS. Leave out four 
 ounces of flour from tle last receipt, and 
 add two ounces more of currant:-, and two 
 ounces of candied peel, cut small work it 
 the same as in the last receipt, and when 
 ready put the mixture into a biscuit funnel, 
 and lay them out in dro|H about the size of 
 half a crown, on white |)aper, bake them 
 in a Iwt oven, and when nearly cold, take 
 them from the paper. 
 
 QUINCE COMPOTE. Take six 
 
 quinces, cut them in halves, and core them; 
 scald and pare them neatly. Put some clear 
 sirup into a preserving-pan, with the juice 
 of a lemon; when hot, add the quinces, and 
 give them a boil together; drain the fruit, 
 arrange it in the compotier; leave the sirup 
 to thicken a little, and pour it over the 
 quinces. 
 
 QUINCE CREAM. Take four or firo 
 ripe quinces, and roast them, but not to sof- 
 ten them; pare, core, slice them thin, and 
 then boil diem slowly in a pint of good 
 cream, with a little ginger ; when tolerably 
 thick, strain it, add sugar to your taste, and 
 flavor it widi rose-water. 
 
 QUINCE JELLY. Quinces for jelly 
 ought not to be quite ripe, they should, how- 
 ever, be of a fine yellow color ; take off die 
 down which covers them, quarter, core, put 
 them into a saucepan, with water enough
 
 QUI 
 
 169 
 
 QUI 
 
 to cover them; set them on the fire, and 
 when soft, lay the pieces on a sieve to drain, 
 
 pressing them very slightly; strain the liquor, 
 and measure it; clarify, and !>il to cae 
 an equal quantity ut "sujptr; then take, it of)', 
 add the liquor to it, stirrim; it well; when 
 mixed, put it on the lire, still stirring; as 
 Boon as the jelly spreads OUT the >pooii, and 
 falls from it like molasses; take it from 
 the fire, and when cold, pour it into pots. 
 
 QUINCES TO KEEP. Gather the 
 
 fruit quite ripe, lmt |>crfcctly sound; rub 
 each carefully with a clean cloth, to remove 
 the down; then quarter, ami put them into 
 bottles, corked ti^ht. (iive them lulf an 
 bom's (toil in tin; bain-marie. 
 
 QUINCE .M UIMA1.ADE. Gather 
 the fruit when fully ripe, and <! a fine yel- 
 low ; p'arc, quarter, and cure it. 1'nt the 
 quince- into a saucepan, with a little water, 
 set them on tin- lire until tli< \ are quite soli ; 
 then lake them out. and la\ them on a sieve 
 to drain; nil) them through, wei^h the 
 pulp; IKM! an eqn.il ipi.t. 
 petit casse, then add the pulp, stir them 
 together ou-r the lire, until it will fall from 
 the spoon like a jells ; the marmalade is 
 then lit to U- pat into |>ts, and svhen cold, 
 
 Co\er them clo-c. 
 
 QUMT.S TO PICKLE. Pare and 
 cut half a d'./.cn quinces into .-m.t : l piece*, 
 and put them, with a gallon of water, and 
 two |X)in;ds of honey, into a lar^e sauce- 
 pan; mix llieiu : , and .-et (hem 
 on a -l..w lire f.r liali" an hour: Miain the 
 liquor into ajar; when quite cold, w i|w the 
 quinces |M-rfectls dry, and put them into it; 
 coser them MT\ close. 
 
 (l!'IMT.S PI: I s t t;vi;i> is MIIITK 
 JMI^. Tike .1- many quinces as you 
 ; nre, ch.io-e ihem sound; jiare. 
 qii.iiiei, and core them, strewing powder- 
 sii^ar over as \oii do them, tilling up all the 
 ilno\s in a -mall quan- 
 tity of \\ .iter, and sshen all an- cut, add more 
 Mater, and *( them on a fierce, lire to boil 
 quicklv. A- soon a? the quince.-, are tender, 
 and the simp cle.ir, add some apple-jellv, 
 uholc ..ne U.il, and then pour it 
 into glasses; when cold, drain oil the .-imp 
 -Mid jelly, put them into a saucepan, and 
 let them boil as quick as \ou can; ju-t be- 
 f ML- the jelly is taken oii, put in a small 
 quantity of musk, or any other ingredient 
 you mas wish to flavor the preserve with, 
 and then pour it in the glasses again, over 
 the quinces.-, and when cold cover them. 
 This may also he colored red by adding a 
 small quantity of prepared cochineal; in 
 this care, the jelly should be red too. 
 15 
 
 QUINCES THE SPANISH WAY. 
 Pare and core ten pounds of quinces, put 
 them into a stewpan with a pint and a half 
 of water and two pounds of fine sugar, set 
 them on a slow fire, and when they begin 
 to dry. moisten them with rose-water and 
 sack, or white wine; then press the paste 
 through a coarse sieve, add two pounds of 
 sugar, a little orange-flower and rose water. 
 When sufficiently done, it will come off 
 clean, if dropped on a plate; then set it 
 aside to cool. Put it into .-hall.iw pots, 
 strew perfiuned comfits over, and cover 
 them close. 
 
 QUINCES, SIRUP OF. Pare and 
 scrape mme very ripe quinces into a linen 
 cloth, press out the juice, which put in a 
 very iiarm place, or wliere it is exposed to 
 the sun, until all the fecnla lalls to the bot- 
 tom ; then strain it well, and for every 
 quarter of a pound of juice, take one pound 
 of sugar; mix them togedier, and lH.il the 
 whole to perle; take it off, and sshen the 
 .-imp is nearly cold, it may he bottled. 
 Take care to keep the bottles well corked. 
 
 QIIXCE TART. Take some preser- 
 ved quinces, make a sirnp \\ith > < . 
 and water, of which, and the preserve, take 
 
 an equal weight^ aod put it iatoapreMnriog- 
 
 IKIII; lx.il, skim, and then put in the fruit; 
 when tolerably clear, lay the quinces in a 
 tart-dir.h with (Hill paste as usual ; cover and 
 Uikc it; as soon as il is done raise the top 
 gently, pour '" 'I"' sirup, ice it, and serve. 
 
 Q I I \ S SAUCE. See Sauce. 
 
 (il T.\Ti:ssKM'E OF ANCHOVY. 
 The goodne.-s of this preparation depends 
 aim. .-t entirely on having line mellow fieh, 
 that liase IM-CII in pickle loiiii enough (t. t. 
 alxint twelve, months) to dissolve easily, yet 
 lire not at ;i" rn.-ty. 
 
 Choose those that are in die state they 
 
 c e oser iii, not such as have Ix-cn pul into 
 
 fn-h pickle, mixed with red paint, which 
 some add to improve the complexion of the 
 li-h; it has been said, that others have a 
 trick of putting anchovy liquor on pickled 
 sprats ; you will easily discover this by wash- 
 ing one of tin-in, and" tasting the llesh of il, 
 which in the tine anchovy is mellow, red, 
 and liiuli-tl.iMiivd, and the bone in 
 oily. Make only as much as will soon be 
 used, the ire- her it is the better. 
 
 Put ten or twelve anchovies into a mortar, 
 and pound them to a pulp; put this into a 
 very clean iron, or silver, or very well 
 tinned saucepan; then put a large table- 
 spoonful of cold spring-water (we prefer 
 good vinegar) into the mortar; shake it 
 round, and pour it to die pounded andioviec,
 
 RABBIT 
 
 170 
 
 RABBIT 
 
 set them by the side of a slow fire, very fre- 
 quently stirring them together till they are 
 melted, which they will be in the course of 
 five minutes. Now stir in a quarter of a 
 drachm of good cayenne pepper, and let it 
 remain by the side of the fire for a few min- 
 utes longer; then, while it is warm, rub it 
 through a hair sieve, with the back of a 
 wooden spoon. 
 
 , The essence of anchovy, is made with 
 double the al>ove quantity of water, as they 
 are of opinion that it ought to be so thin as 
 not to hang about the sides of the bottle; 
 when it does, the large surface of it is soon 
 acted upon by the air, and becomes rancid 
 and spoils all the rest of it. 
 
 A roll of thin-cut lemon-peel infused with 
 the anchovy, imparts a fine, fresh, delicate, 
 aromatic flavor, which is very grateful ; this 
 is only recommended when you make sauce 
 for immediate use; it will keep much better 
 without: if you wish to acidulute it, instead 
 of water make it with artificial lemon-juice. 
 
 K. 
 
 RABBITS. (1) Truss your rabbits short, 
 lay them in a basin of warm water for ten 
 minutes, then put them into plenty of water, 
 and boil them about half an hour; if large 
 ones, throe-quartan; if very old, an hour: 
 smother them with plenty of white onion 
 sauce, mince the liver, and lay it round the 
 dish, 01 
 a boat. 
 
 dish, or make liver sauce, and send it up in 
 
 id lay 
 , and 
 
 Obs. Ask those you are going to make 
 liver sauce for, if they like plain liver sauce, 
 or liver and parsley, or liver and lemon sauce. 
 
 N. B. It will save much trouble to the 
 carver, if the rabbits be cut up in the kitchen 
 into pieces fit to help at table, and the head 
 divided, one-half laid at each end, and slices 
 of lemon and the liver, choppa-1 very finely, 
 laid on the sides of the dish. 
 
 At all events, cut off the head before you 
 send it to table, we hardly remember that 
 the thing ever lived if we don't see the head, 
 while it may excite ugly idens to see it cut 
 up in an attitude imitative of life; ta.-ides, 
 for the preservation of the head, the poor an- 
 imal sometimes suffers a slower death. 
 
 RABBITS. (2) If your fire is clear 
 and sharp, thirty minutes will roast a young, 
 and forty a full grown rabbit. When you 
 lay it down, baste it with butter, and dredge 
 it lightly and carefully with (lour, that yon 
 may have it frothy, and of a fine light brown. 
 While the rabbit is roasting, boil its liver 
 with some pai sley ; when tender, chop them 
 together, and put half the mixture into some 
 melted butter, reserving the other half for 
 
 garnish, divided into little hillocks. Cat 
 off the bead, and lay half on each side of 
 the dish. 
 
 Obs. A fine, well-grown (but young) 
 warren rabbit, kept sometime after it has 
 Ijeen killed, and roasted with a stuffing in 
 its tally, eats very like a hare, to the nature 
 of which it approaches. It is nice, nourishing 
 food when young, but hard and unwholesome 
 when old. 
 
 RABBIT, BROILED. Take a couple of 
 young rabbits, cut them up, and put them to 
 steep for a few hours in a little oil, mixed 
 with parsley, leeks, a few mushrooms, and a 
 clove of garlic, all shred line, salt and pepper; 
 roll eaeli piece of rabbit in a rasher Of bacon, 
 and put them, with a part of the seasoning, 
 into pieces of white paper; butter the papers 
 inside; broil upon a gridiron over a very 
 slow fire, and serve hot in the papers. 
 
 RABBITS, IN A FRICASSEE. Take 
 
 two fine white rabbitr, and cut them in 
 pieces, by cutting off the legs, shoulders, and 
 back; blanch them in boiling water, and 
 skim them for one minute; stir a few trim- 
 mings of mushrooms in a stewpan over the 
 fire, with a bit of butter, till it begins to fry, 
 then stir in a spoonful of flour; mix into the 
 flour, a little at a time, nearly a quart of 
 good consomme, which set on the fire, and 
 when it boils, put the rabbits in, and let them 
 boil gently till done, then put them into 
 another stewpan, and reduce the sauce till 
 nearly as thick as paste; mix in about half 
 a pint of good boiling cream, and when it 
 becomes the thickness of bechamelle sauce 
 in general, squeeze it through I ho tammy 
 to the rabbits; make it very hot, shake in a 
 few mushrooms, the yolk of an egg, and a 
 little cream, then serve it to table. Rabbits 
 ]>IH\ also be preserved, white or brown, in 
 the same manner as chickens. 
 
 RABBIT, MINCED. Take the re- 
 mains of a roasted rabbit, cut off all the 
 meat, and mince it with a little roast mutton. 
 Then break the Ixjucs of the rabbit into 
 small pieces, and put them into a stewpan, 
 with a slice of butter, some shallots, half a 
 clove of garlic, thyme, a bay-leaf, and basil; 
 give these a few turns over the fire, then shake 
 in a little Hour; moisten with a glass of red 
 wine, and the same quantity of stock, and 
 let it boil over a slow fire for half an hour; 
 strain it off, and put in the minced meat, 
 adding salt and coarse pepper; heat the 
 whole, without boiling, and serve hot: gar- 
 nish with fried bread. 
 
 RABBITS IN A MINUTE. Cut your 
 rabbits into pieces, wipe them- perfectly dry; 
 put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
 
 RABBIT 
 
 171 
 
 RABBIT 
 
 stewpan, set it on the fire, and when warm, 
 put in the rabbit with a little pounded .-pice, 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; let the fire 
 ! brisk, and as goon as toe pieces are 
 browned, ;idd a little shred parsley und shal- 
 lots, leave it three or four minutes lunger on 
 the fire, and then serve. Ten or fifteen min- 
 utes are sufficient to cook this dish. 
 
 RABBIT PIE. Git a couple of young 
 rabbits into quarters, and bruise a quarter 
 of a pound of bacon in a mortal', with the 
 livers, some pepper, salt, a little mace, pars- 
 ley, cut small, and a few leaves of sweet ba- 
 sil ; when these are all beaten fine, line your 
 pie-dish with a nice crust, then put a layer 
 of the seasoning at die bottom of the dish, 
 and put in the rabbits; pound some more 
 bacon in a inortur, mix with it some fresh 
 butter, -and cover the rabbits with it, and 
 over that lay thin si ices of bacon ; put mi the 
 cover, and place it in the oven; it will l>e 
 done in about two hours ; when baked, take 
 off the cover, take out the bacon and skim 
 off the fat, and if there is not a sufficient 
 quantity of gravy, add some rich mutton or 
 veal gravy. 
 
 KAl'.RIT PIE, RAISED. Cut your 
 rabbits in pieces, and put them into a stew- 
 pan, with a bit of fresh butter, lemon-juice, 
 
 pep|T, salt, [Kirsley, thyme, shallots, chopped 
 very line, and a little pounded mace. When 
 the pieces of rabbit are alxjut half done, lay 
 them on a dish, and when cold, raise the 
 cm-!-, put li^ht forcemeat at the bottom; 
 the rabbit u|>ii it, and more forcemeat ii|xm 
 Cover it, and put it in a moderate 
 oven to l/ake gently; when done, take oil' 
 die cover, and add a ragout of sweetbreads 
 cock's combs, &c., and serve. 
 
 RABBITS, PORTUGUESE. Cutoff 
 the heads of a couple of rabbits, turn the 
 
 I tack* upward.", tlie two legs stri|>|xil lit tlie 
 end, anil tiu.-.-cd with a couple of skewer.* 
 in the same manner as chickens, the u 'up- 
 turned like the pinions of a chicken; lard 
 and n>a.-t them with good gravy ; if they are 
 intended for boiling, they should not !* lard- 
 ed, but be served with bacon, and greens, 
 or celery sauce. 
 
 RABBITS, POTTED. Take two or 
 
 'ing, but full-grown rabbits, cut them 
 up, and take off die leg bones at the thigh, 
 season them well with pepprr, mace, cav- 
 enne, Kilt, and allspice, all in \er\ lih<-p..w- 
 
 : [Kit them into a .-mall pin, placing 
 tin-in as closely together us possible. Make 
 the top as smooth a you can. Keep out the 
 heads and carcawe*, but take off the meat 
 abmit the neck. Put plenty of butler, and 
 let tlie whole lake gently. 1-et it n-m.iin in 
 
 the pan for two days, then put it into small 
 pots, adding butter. The livers should also 
 be put in. 
 
 RABBIT PRESERVED. Having 
 boned a rabbit, lard it with bacon and ham; 
 season it well inside and out, roll it up, be- 
 ginning with tlie legs, make it tight, and 
 tie it. Put it into a stew-pan, with some 
 oil, thyme, bay-leaf, and basil; set these 
 on die fire till done enough (but without 
 boiling). When sufficiently cooked, take 
 out the rabbit, drain, let it cool, and then 
 cut it into small pieces, which put into bot- 
 ties; fill them with oil and cover with wet 
 bladders. When required for table, take 
 them out, cut them into fillets, and place 
 on a dish with shred parsley and oil. 
 
 RABBITS PULLED. Half boil your 
 rabbits, with an onion, a little whole |XJD- 
 per, a bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of 
 lernon-peel; pull the flesh into flakes; put 
 to it a little of the liquor, a bit of butter roll- 
 ed in Hour, pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped 
 parsley, and the liver boiled and bruised; 
 lx>il this up, shaking it round, and serve. 
 
 RABBITS, ROASTED. Truss them 
 
 lor roasting, and stull them with the liver 
 minced raw, grated bread, and ham, butter 
 or suet, and chopped parsley, seasoned with 
 a little lemon thyme, grated nutmeg, salt, and 
 pep|KT,and bound with aliens l alen. Sew 
 them up, and roast them Ix-lore a quick fire, 
 and baste them with butter. Serve them 
 with gravy, or melted butter with lemon 
 pickle in "it. Two will take an hour to 
 i hey may also be fricasseed 01 fried, 
 cut into joint*, with plenty of fried parsley, 
 and served with a sauce made of die liver 
 and some parsley chop|x-d, and mixed in 
 melted butter, with a little |>ep|xT and salt, 
 or made into a pie tlie same as chickens. 
 
 RABBIT SOUP. Cut an old rabbit 
 
 s, put thnii into a quart of water; 
 boil it well, take out all the bones, and beat 
 die meat in a marble mortar, as for potting; 
 add a little salt, mace, and white pepper, to 
 your ta.-ie; stir it into the liquor tlie rabbit 
 was boiled in, \\ ith die addition of a very 
 little cream. 
 
 .\. B. The meat of die whole rabbit is 
 too much for one quart; query, would it 
 not be enough for two! 
 
 RABBITS STEWED, WITH A 
 
 BROWN SAUCE, OR WITH A WHITE 
 SAUCE. Wash and clean tlie rabbits well, 
 let them lie for two or three liours in cold 
 water, cut them into joints, wash and dry 
 tliem in a cloth, dust them with flour, and 
 fry them of a light brown w ith butter, and
 
 RAG 
 
 172 
 
 R AS 
 
 stew them in the following sance : Brown 
 three ounces of butter in a stewpan, with a 
 table-spoonful of flour, a minced onion, some 
 pepper and salt ; add a pint of gravy and 
 the rabbits, stew them till they are tender, 
 and a little before serving, stir in a table- 
 spoonfiil of ketchup. When it is wished to 
 dress with a white sauce, the rabbits are not 
 fried, but stewed in while stock, which is 
 seasoned with white pepper, and salt, and 
 thickened with a piece of butter mixed with 
 flour. A few minutes before serving, a little 
 cream is added, and a table-spoonlul of lemon 
 pickle. 
 
 RADISHES IN BROTH. Take some 
 young radishes, pick and scald them, cut 
 them into halves or quarters according to 
 their size, and boil them with a slice of ba- 
 con in some stock. In a little time take 
 them out, drain, and put them into another 
 stew-pan, with consomme, or veal gravy, 
 and a bit of butter rolled in flour. Let them 
 stew gently in this till they are flavored, of 
 a good color, and the sauce pretty thick ; 
 then serve them. 
 
 RAGOUT POWDER. Two ounces 
 of truffles, two of dried mushrooms, the 
 peel of a lemon, and the same of a Seville 
 orange grated, half a grated nutmeg, half an 
 ounce of mace, the same of pepper, and one 
 drachm of cayenne, dry them all well before 
 the fire, pound tliem to a fine [\vder, add 
 one ounce of salt, sift the powder through a 
 sieve, and keep it it in a bottle for use. 
 
 RAGOUT OF SNIPES. Pick six or 
 eight snipes very nicely, but do not wash 
 them ; take out the inside. Roast the birds, 
 and cut off all the meat from the breasts, in 
 thin slices; pound the bones, legs, and 
 backs, in a mortar, and put them into a 
 stew-pan, with the juice of a lemon, a little 
 flour, and some well-seasoned gravy; boil it 
 till it be thick, and well flavored with the 
 game, then strain it. Cut half a pound of 
 ham into thin long slices, and heat it in a 
 little butter, with two minced shallots; put 
 it, with the breasts of the snipes, into the 
 strained sauce, and let it boil. Pound the 
 inside, or trail, with a little salt, spread it 
 over thin bite of toasted bread, and hold 
 over it a hot salamander. Put the ragout 
 upon this, and place the ham round it. 
 
 RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL. Either 
 a neck, loin, or fillet of veal, will furnish 
 thisexcellent ragout with a very little expense 
 or trouble. Cut the veal into handsome cut- 
 lets ; put a piece of butter or clean dripping 
 into a frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, flour 
 and fry the veal of a light brown : take it 
 out, and if you have no gravy ready, make 
 
 some as follows: put a pint of boiling water 
 into the frying-pan, give it a boil up for a 
 minute, and strain it into a basin while yon 
 make some thickening in the following man- 
 ner: put about an ounce of butter into a 
 stewpan ; as soon as it melts, mix with it aa 
 much flour as will dry it up; stir it over the 
 fire for a few minute? and gradually add to it 
 the gravy you made in the frying-pan; let 
 them simmer together for ten minutes (till 
 thoroughly incorporated) ; season it with pep- 
 per, salt, a little mace, and a wine-glassful of 
 mushroom ketchup or wine; strain it through 
 a tamis to the meat, and stew very gently 
 till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you 
 have any ready boiled bacon, cut it in slices, 
 and put it in to warm with the meat. 
 
 RAMEQUINS. Take a quarter of a 
 pound of Cheshire cheese, scraped, tlie same 
 quantity of Gloucester cheese, and beat them 
 in a mortar, with a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, the yolks of four eggs, and the 
 inside of a French roll, boiled in cream till 
 soft; when all i.s lx>aten to a paste, mix it 
 with the whites of the eggs, previously beat- 
 en, and put tlie paste into small paper cases, 
 made rather long than square, and put them 
 to bake in a Dutch oven, till of a fine brown, 
 They should IK: served quite hot. You mav, 
 if you think projjer, add a glass of white wine. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM. See Cream. 
 
 RASPBERRY DUMPLINGS. Take 
 
 some good puff paste, roll it out, and spread 
 raspberry jam over it ; roll it up, and boil it 
 rattier more than an hour; cut it into five 
 slices ; pour melted butter into tlie dish, grate 
 sugar round, and serve. 
 
 RASPBERRY FRITTERS. Grate 
 
 two \aplcs, biscuits, or the crumb of a French 
 roll ; put to either a pint of boiling cream. 
 When this is cold, add to it the yolks of four 
 eggs, well beaten; beat all well together 
 with some raspl>erry juice; drop this in very 
 small quantities, into a pan of boiling lard; 
 stick them with blanched almonds, sliced. 
 
 RASPBERRY FLUMMERY. Mix 
 with half a pint of white wine vinegar one 
 pound of raspberries, or one pound of pre- 
 served i-asplxTries, let it boil for three or 
 four minutes, stirring it ronstanly; s-train 
 it through a hair sieve; dissolve one ounce 
 of isinglass in half a pint of water; mix 
 with it three-quarters of a pound of pounded 
 sugar, add it to the strained raspberries 
 stir it all well together; boil, and strain it 
 through a bit of muslin, and put it into a 
 shape. Turn it out when cold. 
 
 RASPBERRY JELLY. See Jelhf.
 
 REL 
 
 173 
 
 RICE 
 
 RASPBERRY ICE. Press the juice 
 from as many raspberrries as will yield a 
 pound and a half; put it into a glazed pan, 
 and leave it for four days. Then carefully 
 raise the skin that has formed on the top of 
 it, pour off the juice into another vessel; 
 clarify a |xun<! and a half of sugar, with a 
 pint and a half of water, add the juice, and 
 give them half a dozen boils; if not suffi- 
 ciently red, put in a root of orkanet, which 
 leave in till of the proper color; strain the 
 preparation through a sieve ; when cold, put 
 it into the sabotiere, and freeze it. See Ice. 
 
 I: \SPBERRY SPONGE. Dissolve 
 in a little water three-quarters of an ounce 
 of isinglass, add to it three-quarters of a 
 pint of cream, and the same proportion of 
 new milk, nearly half a pint of raspl>erry 
 jelly, and the juice of a lemon. Whisk it 
 well one wav till ii becomes thick, and looks 
 like sponge, then put it into an earthenware 
 mould, and turn it out the next day. 
 
 RASPBERRY TART. Line your 
 dish with a nice puff paste, lay 
 and fruit, put bars across, and bake. 
 
 RASPBERRY TART WITH CREAM. 
 Line a patty-pan with thin puff paste, lay 
 in some raspberries, and strew sonic very 
 finely sifted sugar over them; cover them 
 with puff paste, and bake it; when done, 
 cut it open, and put in half a pint of cream, 
 in which has been previously beaten the \ulks 
 of two or three eggs, and sweetened with a 
 little wgar; when this is added to the tart, 
 return it to the oven five or six minutes. 
 
 RED CABBAGE. Get a fine purple 
 cabbage, lake off the outside leaves, quarter 
 it, take out the stalk, shred the leaves into 
 a colander, s|>rinkle them ith salt, let them 
 remain till the morrow, drain them dry, put 
 them into a jar, and cover them with the 
 pickle for beet roots. 
 
 RED MULLET. Scrape and wash 
 them, fold them in buttered paper, lay them 
 into a dish, and bake them gently. The 
 liquor that comes from them, boil with a 
 piece of butter, dusted with flour, a tea- 
 spoonful of s<>y, two of essence of anchovy, 
 and a little white wine. Serve the sauce in 
 :i butler-tureen. This M\ is called the sea 
 woodcock, from being dressed with the 
 
 RELISH FOR CHOPS, &c. Pound 
 fine an ounce of black |>epper, and half an 
 ounce of ;dl.-|>iee, with an ounce of salt, and 
 half an ounre of scraped horseradish, and 
 the same of eschalots., peeled and quartered; 
 put these ingredients into a pint of inusliroom 
 15* 
 
 ketchup, or walnut pickle, and let them steep 
 for a fortnight, and then strain it. 
 
 Obs. A tea-spoonful or two of this is 
 generally an acceptable addition, mixed 
 with the gravy usually sent up for chops and 
 steaks, or added to thick melted butter. 
 
 REMOULADE, INDIAN. Pound the 
 yolks often hard eggs to a paste, dilute it 
 with eight spoonfuls of oil, put in one at a 
 time, and continue pounding all the time; 
 then add about a dozen allspice, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of saffron, four or five spoonfuls of vine- 
 gar, salt, and pepper; amalgamate the whole 
 perfectly, strain it through a bolting-cloth, 
 and sei;\ e it in a sauce tureen. This sauce 
 should be rather thick. 
 
 RENNET. (1) As soon as the catf 
 is killed, take out the stomach, and scour it 
 inside and out with salt, after it is cleared 
 of the curd always found in it. Let it drain 
 for a few hours, after which sew it up with 
 two large handfuls of salt in it, or stretch it 
 on a stick well salted; or keep it in the 
 salt, wet, and soak a bit, which will do over 
 and over by fresh water. 
 
 RENNET. (2) Prepare the maw the 
 same as in the above receipt: on the follow- 
 ing day, put a handful of hawthorn-tops, a 
 handful of sweet briar, a handful of rose- 
 leaves, a stick of cinnamon, forty cloves, 
 four blades of mace, a sprig of knotted mar- 
 joram, and two large spoonfuls of -alt, into 
 two quarts of fresh spring water; let them 
 tx.il uiTitly till the water is reduced to three 
 pints, then strain it off, and when only milk 
 warm, |H>ur it on the maw. Slice a lemon, 
 and add to it; in two days, strain it again, 
 and put into bottles. Aromatic herbs may 
 be put in also; take care that it is sufficient- 
 ly salt. If the maw be again salted for a 
 few days, and dried as above, it will be 
 quite as fit for use as before; it should be 
 kept in a cool, dry place. A small quantity 
 of the liquid is sufficient for turning. 
 
 RHUBARB TART. Let the stalks be 
 of a good size, take off the thin skin, and 
 cut them into lengths of four or five inches; 
 lay them in a dish, and put over a thin 
 sirup of sugar and water; cover with another 
 dish, and let it simmer slowly for an boor 
 upon a hot hearth, or do them in a block- 
 tin saucepan. As soon as cold, make it 
 into a tart; wlien tender, the baking the 
 crust will l<e sufficient; or you may cut the 
 stalks into little hits, the size of gooseberries, 
 and make your tart the same as gooseberry 
 tart. 
 
 RICE BLANCMANGE. Put a tea- 
 cupful of whole rice into the leant water
 
 RICE 
 
 174 
 
 RICE 
 
 possible, till it almost bursts ; tlien add half 
 a pint of good milk or thin cream, and boil 
 it till it is quite a mash, stirring it the whole 
 time it is on the fire, that it may not burn ; 
 dip a shape in cold water, and do not dry 
 it; put in the rice, and let it stand until 
 quite cold, when it will come easily out of 
 die shape. This dish is much approved of; 
 it is eaten with cream or custard, and pre- 
 served fruits ; raspberries are best. It should 
 be made the day before it is wanted, that it 
 may get firm. This blancmange will eat 
 much nicer, flavored with spices, lemon-peel, 
 &c., and sweetened with a little loaf sugar, 
 add it with the milk, and take outthelemon- 
 -peel before you put in the mould. 
 
 RICE, TO BOIL. Wash the rice per- 
 fectly clean, and put on one pound in two 
 quarts of cold water ; let it boil twenty min- 
 utes, strain it through a sieve, and put it be- 
 fore the fire; shake it up with a fork every 
 now and then, to separate the grains, and 
 make it quite dry. Serve it hot. 
 
 RICE CASSEROLE. Take a pound 
 and a half of rice, wash it thoroughly in 
 several waters (warm), and then put it 
 into a saucepan, at least eight inches in 
 diameter; moisten it with stock, in this pro- 
 portion ; if tlie rice lies an inch thick, let 
 the stock come two inches above it, and 
 four ladlefuls of fowl skimmings; place the 
 eaucepan on a hot stove; when the rice 
 boils, set it on the side, and skim it; then 
 put it on hot ashes, cover, and let it boil 
 slowly lor fifteen to twenty minutes; stir it, 
 let it boil as before; in twenty or twenty- 
 five minutes, stir it again ; if by this time 
 the rice is perfectly soft, take it off, but if 
 not, add a little more liquid, and continue 
 boiling until it ia so; place the saucepan 
 aslant on the side of the stove that the tilt 
 may drain awav and be taken off easily. 
 As soon as the rice is lukewarm, work it 
 into a firm, smooth, paste, with a spatula; 
 it can hardly be worked up too much, as 
 every grain of rice ought to pass under pres- 
 sure (if necessary, add more stuck, a very 
 little at a time). When the paste is thus 
 thoroughly worked up, form your casserole 
 of it, first laving it in a heap, four or five 
 inches high, and seven in diameter; do it 
 with the hand as you would a raised crust; 
 make the ornaments of the outer surface with 
 the point of "a knife, or by carrots cut for 
 the purpose, taking care that the decorations 
 Iv detached from the mass of rice, at least 
 nn inch; attention to this particular \\ill 
 uot only add to the beauty of the form, Ixit 
 t ilie color also, as the raised parts ill be 
 lightly colored, while the ground ^ill be 
 quite white. When properly formed, mask 
 the whole surface with clarified butter, and 
 
 place it in a hot oven for an hour and a half, 
 by which time it will Iw of a fine clear yel- 
 low. Take oil the top of your casserole, 
 clear away all the rice from the inside that 
 dues not adhere to the crust (which ought to 
 be very thin), ami mix it with bechameHe, 
 espagnole, or whatever other sauce may be 
 proper, put it in again, and then fill your 
 casserole, with such ragouts as your fancy 
 may dictate; glaze the surface of the outer 
 ornaments, and serve it. Water, with but- 
 ter and salt, is frequently thought preferable 
 to the stock, Sic., as the rice is thereby 
 rendered much whiter. 
 
 RICE CASSOLETTES. The rice 
 prepared as above may Iv put into smaller 
 moulds, those called dariole moulds, and 
 it should be quite cold before it is turned out, 
 the mince or whatever is put inside being 
 also cold ; it must be put in carefully, that 
 none of it may mix with the rice, otherwise 
 the cassolettes >vould break in the process 
 of frying; for the same reason, the dripping 
 must l)e very hot. Frying is the best and 
 quickest method of doing them, but they may 
 also lie browned in the oven as the casserole 
 of rice. 
 
 RICE CHEESE. Boil an ounce of 
 rice, thick as hasty pudding, in rather less 
 than half a pint of milk (new); pour it hot 
 on an ounce and a half of butter, the same 
 weight of sugar, mixing it well together; let 
 it stand till cold; then add one egg, and the 
 yolk of another, and a little white wine. 
 
 RICE CREAM. Mix some rice flour 
 
 with half a glass of cold milk; then by de- 
 grees, add a pint more, also cold, and put 
 it with a bay-leaf into a saucepan, set it on 
 a slow fire for an hour and a half, then strain 
 and flavor it with orange-flower water, 
 sweeten to your taste, and serve it hot. It 
 should he stirred frequently whilst boiling; 
 eggs may be added if you think proper. 
 
 RICE CROQUETTES. Wash and 
 scald a quarter of a pound of rice, put it 
 into a saucepan, with the rind of a lemon, 
 shred small, a quarter of a pound of powder- 
 sugar, a pinch of salt, a little cris|x-d orange- 
 llowei-s, an ounce of butter, and half a pint 
 of milk; set these on the fire, and when the 
 rice is quite soft, add the yolks of four eggs, 
 stir them in over the fire, but do not let them 
 Ixiil; pour the preparation on a large tin or 
 slab, spread it equally; let it cool, and then 
 divide it into small equal parts; roll these 
 into balls, dip them into an omelet, roll 
 them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in a 
 very hot pan. As soon as the croquettes 
 are of a nice color, drain, sprinkle them 
 with powder-sugar, and serve them.
 
 RICE 
 
 175 
 
 RICE 
 
 RICE CUPS. Sweeten a pint of milk 
 with pounded loaf sugar, and boil it with a 
 Stick of cinnamon; stir in sifted ground 
 rice till thick ; take it off the fire, and add 
 
 the welUlxMtfii whites of three i-j--; stir il 
 again over ihe (in- (iir two or three minutes, 
 then put it into tea-cups previously dipped in 
 cold water; turn tliein out when cold, and 
 pour rouiul them a custard cream made with 
 the yolks of the eggs; place upon the rice a 
 little rvil currant jelly or r.isplierry jam. 
 This dish may l>e served warm or cold; if 
 cold, raspljerry cream or custard may lx> 
 poured round it. 
 
 RICE CUSTARDS AVITHOUT 
 
 CKi:\M. One tea-s|x>onful of ri<v-tl-.ur, 
 a pint of new milk, the yolks of ih. 
 a ta!>le-s|XK>iifu! of ratafia (or tun or three 
 laurel leaves lx>iled in), sugar to your taste; 
 mix the rice very smooth, and stir it with 
 the eggs into the boiling milk, until thick. 
 Arrow-root is better than rice. 
 
 RICK FLUMMERY. (1) Boil a pint of 
 new milk, with a bit of lemon-|xvl and cin- 
 namon: then mix just sufficient rice-flour, 
 with a littk> cold milk as will make the 
 whole of :i u<>od consistence, sweeten ac- 
 cording in taste, flavor with a little pound- 
 ed bitter almond; ln.il it, taking care not to 
 let it burn ; pour it into a shape or pint ba- 
 sin, taking out the spice. When the flum- 
 nierx is cold, turn it into a dish, and serve 
 with cream, milk, or custard, all round, or 
 tern with sweet sauce in a boat. 
 
 RICK II. I MMKKV. (2) Boil in a quart 
 
 of milk five ounces of sifted ground rice, half 
 an ounce of bitter almoiiits, blanched and 
 pounded with two labie-sixvoMluls. of rose- 
 water; sweeten, and stir it till very thick, 
 ft that the bottom of the saucepan is seen, 
 and then put it into a mould; when (jiiile 
 cold turn it out, stick over it sweet almonds, 
 nit into straws, and |x.ur round it some thick 
 cream, and a little white wine and sugar 
 mixed with it. 
 
 HICK riMTTKKS. 15-.il tlte rice in 
 
 milk with so (Mixvdfr-sugar, oranije-lloxxcr 
 
 water, a pinch oi cniiiamon jxiwiler, ami a 
 little Ixitler; when -|iiiie soft put to it a 
 Unison of volks of cu^s. |x>nr it into a |KIII 
 ti> cool. Make your pieparati-.n into lulls, 
 alMHit the f'vu: -if an e'_".', dip them in egg, 
 fix them, sprinkle them with su_ 
 erve. 
 
 tlien put in the grated rind of a lemon, let 
 it cool. Wlien quite cold, stir in four yolka 
 and four whole eggs, more if the rice he 
 very thick; Ixitter a mould tightly, put the 
 rice into it, place the mould in hot a.-hes, so 
 tliat it may l>e completely envelojxxl in and 
 covered with them; in half an hour the go- 
 teau will I*' done enough; then turn it out, 
 and serve. If you wish, you can make a 
 souffle, by whipping the whites of six eggs; 
 like other souffles, in this case it should he 
 served in a silver dish. In putting the 
 preparation into the mould, be careful not 
 to fill it, as the rice would swell and run 
 over the edge. 
 
 RICE MILK. Allow an ounce of rice 
 for each person, wash it thoroughly in warm 
 water; set some milk on the fire, and when 
 it boils, put in die rice ; continue to toil it 
 over a slow fire, stirring often for two or 
 three hours; add salt or sugar according 
 to taste, and cinnamon. 
 
 RICE AND MILK. To every quart 
 of good milk all-.xv two ounces of rice; 
 wash it well in several waters; put it with 
 the milk into a closely-covered saucepan, 
 and set it over a slow fire; when it boils 
 take it off; let it stand till it be cold, and 
 simmer it about an hour and a quarter be- 
 fore sending it to table; and serve it in 
 a tureen. 
 
 RICE PANCAKES. Boil half a pound 
 of rice in a small quantity of water, until 
 quite a jelly; as soon as it is cold, mix it 
 with a pint of cream, eight eggs, a little 
 salt and nutmeg; make eight ounces of 
 butter just warm, and stir in xvith the rest, 
 adding to the xvhole as much butter as will 
 make the batter thick enough. They must 
 lx> fried in as small a quantity of lard as 
 possible. 
 
 RICE PASTE. Rub tln-ee ounces of 
 
 lintter well, into half a pound of ground 
 
 rice, moisten it with xvater, and roll it out 
 w ith a little Hour. 
 
 RICE, PYRAMIDS OF. Boil some 
 
 whole rice, make it up into the form of pyr- 
 amids about three inches hi^h. or prew it 
 into small tin frames -if that shajx-; take 
 out part of the rice at the bottom, and fill the 
 space with sausage, or rich forcemeat ; place 
 them in a dish, take off the frame . and pour 
 round tliein some rich brown gravy. 
 
 ISKT.. <; \TF.AU OF. Hoil a quart RICE SAVOURY. Carefullx wash 
 
 of cream, add to it half a pound of powdar- and pick some rice; set it to slew very 
 
 Wlgar, and three-quarters of a (x.und of gently in a little veal or rich mutton broth, 
 
 rice; when the latter is quite soft, di.-x.lxe add an onion, a blade of mace, (M'pper, and 
 
 ill it a quarter of a pound of butter, and .-alt. When it is sxvelle-l it bhould not be
 
 RIS 
 
 176 
 
 ROLLS 
 
 boiled to mash; put it to dry on the shallow 
 end of a sieve before the fire. You may 
 serve il dry, or put it in the middle of a 
 dish, and pour the gravy round, having first 
 heated it. 
 
 RICE SNOW BALLS. Wash and 
 pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it 
 on in a saucepan with plenty of water ; when 
 it boils let it boil ten 'minutes, drain it on 
 a sieve till it is quite dry, and then pare six 
 apples, weighing two ounces and a half each. 
 Divide the rice into six parcels, in separate 
 chillis, put one apple in each, tie it loose, 
 and boil it one hour; serve it with sugar 
 and butter, or wine sauce. 
 
 RICE SOUP. (1) Carefully blanch 
 some well picked rice, then drain it on a 
 sieve ; put about a tea-cupful in the soup-pot, 
 with one head of celery, and a quart of 
 consomme, and let it simmer by the side 
 of the stove for three hours. If it thickens 
 too much add more consomme, season with 
 a little salt ; take out the celery, and send 
 the soup to table. 
 
 RICE SOUP. (2) Wash your rice 
 well in warm water, changing it frequently ; 
 then put the rice into a saucepan, with 
 some good stock ; set it on the fire, and 
 leave it to swell for half an hour, but do 
 not let it boil; when the rice has imbibed 
 all the stock, add a sufficient quantity to 
 cover the rice, cover, and boil it slowly for 
 two hours; in the meantime broil two or 
 three slices of beef, and pepper and salt them 
 well; when of a nice dark color, throw 
 them into the rice soup, to which they will 
 impart a rich flavor and a fine color. 
 
 RICE, WHOLE IN A SHAPE. 
 
 Wash a large tea-cupful of rice in .several 
 waters, put it into a saucepan with cold 
 water to cover it, and when it boils, add 
 two cupfuls of rich milk, and boil it till it 
 becomes dry; put it into a shape, and press 
 it in well. When cold, turn it out, and 
 serve with preserved black currants, rasp- 
 berries, or any sort of fruit round it. 
 
 RISSOLES. (1) Cut puff paste with a 
 round tin cutter, about three inches wide; 
 have ready some cold fowl or veal, very 
 finely minced, and seasoned with a little 
 pounded garlic, grated lemon-peel, pepper, 
 salt, and mace, the juice of half a lemon, 
 and moistened with a little good gravy- 
 Put some of the mince upon a bit of the 
 paste, wet the edges, and lay over it anoth- 
 er bit; press il gently round the rim; brush 
 them all over with a well-beaten egg, and 
 strew over them silted bread crumbs; tV\ 
 them a light brown in boiling clarified Ixjcf 
 
 dripping, and lay them upon the back of a 
 sieve before the fne to drain. Serve them 
 in a napkin. The paste may be cut of the 
 size of a large breakfast plate, then the 
 mince put into the middle of it, the edges 
 wet all round, and gathered up into the 
 form of a pear, brushed over with < 
 strewed over witli bread crumbs. Served 
 in a dish garnished with fried parsley. 
 
 RISSOLES. (2) Mi nee very finely some 
 cold roasted veal, and a small bit of bacon; 
 season it with grated nutmeg and salt; 
 moisten it with cream, and make it up into 
 good-sized balls; dip them into the yolks 
 of eggs beaten up, and then into finely -grat- 
 ed bread. Bake them in an oven, or fry 
 them of a light brown color in fresh drip- 
 ping. Before serving, drain them before 
 the fire on the back of a sieve. Garnish 
 with fried parsley. 
 
 ROLLS. (1) Dissolve two ounces of but- 
 ter in one pint of new milk, and stir it into 
 four pounds of flour, as also three table-spoon- 
 fuls of yeast, a tea-spoonful of salt, and the 
 well-beaten whites of two eggs; cover the 
 pan with a wanned towel, and set it before 
 the fire to rise for half an hour, then work it 
 one way for fifteen minutes; form it into 
 rolls, place them upon tins, and let them 
 rise for ten minutes before putting them into 
 the oven. 
 
 ROLLS. (2) Warm an ounce of bolter in 
 half a pint of milk, then add a spoonful arid 
 a half of yeast of small Ijeer, and a little salt. 
 Put two pounds of flour into a pan, and put 
 in the. above. Set it to rise for an hour; 
 knead it well ; make it into seven rolls, and 
 hake, them in a quick oven. 
 
 ROLLS, FRENCH. (1) Mix rather more 
 
 than an ounce of coarse salt with eight 
 pounds of sifted flour; make a hole in the 
 middle, and pour in alxjut half a pint of 
 good yeast, the well-beaten whites of four 
 ci^s, a:ul as much new milk warmed as 
 will mix it to a middling stiffness; clap 
 and work it down one way for hall" an hour, 
 but do not knead it; cover it with a wann- 
 ed towel, and let it rise before the fire for 
 half an hour ; take off the surface, which 
 soon becomes hard, and put it aside to be 
 made into a roll; work and clap the dough, 
 form it into rolls, place them upon tins, and 
 let them rise for ten minutes ; bake them 
 in a quick oven. 
 
 ROLLS, FRENCH. (2) Rub one ounce 
 of butter into a pound of llour; then add to it 
 one egg beaten, a little \east that is not bit- 
 ter, and a sufficient quantity of milk, to make 
 a dough of moderate stiffness. Beat it well,
 
 RO S 
 
 177 
 
 SAO 
 
 but do not knead it ; let it rise, and bake on 
 tins. 
 
 ROLLS, FRENCH. (3) Warm three 
 spoonfuls of milk, and the same quantity of 
 water, with a bit of butter the size of a wal- 
 nut, put it to two s|KK>nfuk of thick yeast; 
 put this into tlie middle of rather more than 
 a quart of flour, mix the whole together to 
 the consistence of a batter-|Midding, adding 
 more tlour if necessary, to make it the proper 
 thickness; strew a little flour over it from 
 the side.--, and if the weather is cold, set it at 
 a little di-t:tnre from (he fire; do this three 
 hours Ix-lore it i- put into the oven ; when it 
 breaks a good deal through tl)e tlour and ris- I 
 es, work it into a light |>as(e with more warm 
 milk ami water: let it. lie till within a quar- 
 ter of an hour nf setting into the oven, then 
 work them lightly into rolls; flour a tin, and 
 drop tin >n nn, handle them as little as possi- 
 ble; act them before the fire. Abouttwenty 
 minutes will In- sufficient time to bake them ; 
 put a little salt into the tlour. Rasp the 
 rolls. 
 
 HOI.I.S. SHORT, HOT. Dry -before 
 
 the. lire a siilhcieul quantity of (lour to nuke 
 
 iny-rolls, or larger if you like; add 
 
 to it an cji; well k-alen, a little silt. tv\n 
 
 spoonfuls i.f vea.-t. ami a little warm milk; 
 
 make it into a light dough, let it -land In 
 
 ill night. Bake die rolls in a quick 
 
 -\V V.TER, DOUBLE-DISTILLED. 
 
 The rose generally I-IH.M-H for this purpose, 
 
 is the e.imni'.n r dutihle) ro.-e. 
 
 but the while ruse i" IICM of all. Gather the 
 
 . lwi> hours after siin- 
 
 M- out llie ctlix, and depurate tlte 
 
 I them in a in:irlile mortar to a 
 
 paste, and leave them live or six hours in the 
 
 : it tliem into a large close 
 
 eloth, and let f 'ing it with all 
 
 I Living I iv this operation ob- 
 
 . infuse in it an 
 
 equal weight nf fresh rose-leaves for tvvcntv- 
 fourhi.ni.-; :il tin- end of that lime put the 
 whole into tin- alembic, which place in a 
 pand-hath. ain! di>til it according to rule. 
 (Sec Disti/'iiiK)- When you have collect- 
 ed aU.ut an ounce "f the wftler, uiiluti: the 
 . and if that which i.-sues from the 
 till is as odoriferous as that which proceeded 
 lh>t, e.iiitinii.- tlm Ufa-ration; Uit if not, col- 
 lect it int anotlier vessel, as this second 
 and must lie kept sepa- 
 rate from the first, which is the Essential 
 Water. Should the second water have an 
 unplca.-.inl sini II (canx-d In the application 
 of tiMi much heal), expose it to the sun for 
 a few days. COM u-d milv by a itneet of paper. 
 The niuiust care is necessary in distilling this 
 
 and all other odoriferous substances. A still 
 more powerful essence than the above may be 
 procured by tlte following method: Gather 
 as many n >M- as will afford thirty pounds of 
 leaves, pound these with four pounds of salt; 
 when pounded, place the paste in a vessel in 
 layers with salt U-tween each, press them 
 closely, cork them tight, leave the vessel 
 twelve days, and then di-til as usual. 
 
 ROSE-WATER, SINGLE. Put four 
 pounds of rose-leaves into a pan, with three 
 quarts of river water, and leave it tour-and- 
 tvventy lionrs ; then (Mil it into a metal alem- 
 bic, and distil from it as much odoriferous 
 water as you can, being sure to stop the mo- 
 ment you observe the phlegm. Take off 
 tlie alembic, throw away its contents, and 
 rinse it out well; after this, fill it to two- 
 thirds with fresh-gatliered rose-leaves, on 
 which |HHir the MOW drawn rose-water; 
 distil this, and wlien you have procured as 
 much good rose-water as it will vield, let the 
 fire go out gradually. 
 
 ROUX. Put a pound of butter into a 
 
 . -hake it about till dissolved, when 
 add a stilncient quantity of situ d tlour. to 
 make it the coii.-isience of thick bouilli; 
 ilieu set it over a fierce stove, and slir it un- 
 til it Ix-uins to take color, wlien make a good 
 lire i.f cinders, place the roux on it, tad let 
 it stand to increase in color; it ought to be 
 of a d.-ar li_'lit brown. Set it by, and use it 
 -ion may require. 
 
 , WHITE. Prepare v our butter 
 
 and lloiir as alve, place it on a moderately 
 Ivated stove, stirring it coitantl\ till very- 
 hot; be careful th.it it does not takecolorat 
 all, (br the whiter it is the more desirable. 
 
 RUSKS. To three, ponnds and a half 
 of flour allow lialf a pound of butter, the 
 same quantity of |H.uiided loaf surar, and 
 five s|>ooiifuLs of v-a.-l ; mix lln> flour and 
 tlier: melt the butter in two pints 
 and a h dfof milk, and mix it with the lloiir, 
 then add the \.-.i-t and one beaten egg; 
 work it well together; cover it, and let it 
 Mand lor five or six hours; take it out of 
 the pin, and f.rm it into little rolls; place 
 Ihi-iii ti|(on tins, and let tin-in rise P>r aU.ut 
 an hour; bake them in a quick oven, and 
 when they Ixx-onie brown, cut them through 
 the middle or into three ,-liees; jxit them 
 again into the oven to brown and crisp. 
 
 SAGE GARGLE. Boil quickly in a 
 pint of water, a large handful of sage leave* ;
 
 SAL 
 
 178 
 
 SAL 
 
 cover the pan closely, and when reduced to 
 one-half, strain it; when cold, mix it with 
 the same quantity of Port wine and of vine- 
 gar ; sweeten it with honey, or with brown 
 sugar. The decoction of sage may be used 
 alone as a gargle, or with vinegar and hon- 
 ey, without the Port wine; or gargle with 
 vinegar and water. 
 
 SAGO. Let it soak for an hour in cold 
 water, to take off the earthy taste; pour 
 that off, and wash it well ; then add more 
 water, and simmer gently until the berries 
 are clear, with lemon-peel and spice. Add 
 wine and sugar according to taste, and boil 
 all up together. 
 
 SAGO MILK. When well cleansed, 
 boil it slowly with new milk. A small 
 quantity will be sufficient for a quart of milk, 
 it swells so much, and when done, it should 
 Be reduced to about a pint. It requires 
 neither sugar nor flavoring. 
 
 SALAD MIXTURE. Endeavor to have 
 your salad herbs as fresh as |xissiblc; if you 
 suspect they are not "morning gathered," 
 they will be much refreshed by lying an hour 
 or two in spring water; then fan-fully wash 
 and pick them, and trim off all the worm- 
 eaten, slimy, cankered, dry leaves; and, 
 after washing, let them remain awhile in 
 the colander to drain : lastly, swing them 
 gently in a clean napkin: when properly 
 picked and cut, arrange them in the salad 
 dish, mix the sauce in a soup-plate, and put 
 it into an ingredient bottle, or pour it down 
 the side of the salad dish, and don't stir it 
 up till the mouths are ready for it. 
 
 If the herbs be young, fresh gathered, trim- 
 med neatly, and drained dry, and the sauce- 
 maker ponders patiently over the follow ing 
 directions, he cannot fail obtaining the fame 
 of being a very accomplished salad-dresser. 
 
 Boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes, 
 and put them in a basin of cold water for a 
 few minutes; the yolks must be quite cold 
 and hard, or they will not incorporate with 
 the ingredients. Rub them through a sieve 
 with a wooden sjnion, and mix them with a 
 table-spoonful of water, or line double cream ; 
 llie.ii adil two table-spoonfuls, of oil or melted 
 butter; when these are well mixed, add, .by 
 degrees, a tea-spoonful of salt, or powdered 
 lump sugar, and die same of made mustard : 
 when these are smoothly united, add very 
 gradually three table-spoonfuls of vinegar; 
 rub it with the other ingredients till thor- 
 oughly incorporated with them; cut up the 
 white of the egg, and garnish the top of the 
 naiad with it. Let the sauce remain at the 
 bottom of the bowl, and do not stir up ihc 
 salad till it is to be eaten: we recommend 
 the eaters to be mindful of the duty of masti- 
 
 cation, without the due performance of 
 which, all undressed vegetables are trouble- 
 some company for the principal viscera, and 
 some are even dangerously indigestible. 
 
 SALAD, WINTER. Wash very clean 
 one or two heads of endive, some heads of 
 celery, gome mustard and cresses; cut them 
 all small, add a little shredded red cabbage, 
 some slices of boiled Iwet-root, an onion, if 
 the flavor is not disliked ; mix them together 
 with salad sauce. In spring, add radishes, 
 and also garnish die disli with them. 
 
 SALINE DRAUGHT. Salt of worm- 
 wood, twenty grains; lemon-juice, a table- 
 spoonful; water, two table-spoonfuls; mag- 
 nesia, twenty grains ; mix it in a tumbler, 
 together with a little pounded sugar, and take 
 two or three of these in the day. 
 
 SALLY LUNNS. Take three quarts 
 of dried flour, half a cupful of yeast, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter, melted in a sufficient 
 quantity of milk to dissolve it, the yolks of 
 three eggs, and a little salt: make these in- 
 gredients into a light dough, let it stand be- 
 fore the fire (covered), for an hour to rise, 
 and bake in a quick oven. The above may 
 be made into small cakes. 
 
 SALMON. When salmon is fresh and 
 good, the gills and flesh are of a bright red, 
 tl>< .-rales clear, and the whole fish is stiff. 
 Wlien just killed, there is a whiteness be- 
 tween the flakes, which gives great firmness; 
 by keeping, this melts down, and the fish 
 becomes richer. 
 
 SALMON, BAKED. Qean and cut 
 the fish into slices, put it in a dish, and make 
 the following sauce: Melt an ounce of but- 
 ter, kneaded in (lour, in a pint and a half 
 of <jra\y, with tun glasses 01 Port wine, two 
 table-s|>oonfuls of ketchup, two anchovies, 
 and a little cavenne. When the anchovies 
 are dissolved, strain and pour the sauce over 
 the fish, tie a sheet of buttered paper over 
 the dish, and send it to the oven. 
 
 SM.MON, BOILED. Put on a fish- 
 kettle, with spring water enough to well 
 <-over i he salmon you are going to dress, or 
 the salmon will neither look nor taste well: 
 (Ixiil the liver in a separate saucepan). 
 When the water boils, put in a handful of 
 salt; take off the scum as soon as it rises; 
 have the fish well washed ; put it in, and if 
 it is thick, let it boil very gently. Salmon 
 requires almost as much boiling as meat; 
 about a quarter of an hour to a pound of 
 fish : but practice only can perfect the cpok 
 in dressing salmon. A quarter of a salmon 
 will take almost as long boiling as half a
 
 SAL 
 
 179 
 
 SAL 
 
 one: you must consider the thickness, not the 
 weight: ten pounds of line full-grown salmon 
 will ! dune in an hour and a quarter. Lob- 
 ster Sauce. 
 
 Obs. The thinnest part of the fish is 
 the fattest ; and if sou have a " grand gour- 
 mand" at table, ask him if he is for thick 
 or thin. 
 
 N. B. If you have any left, put it into 
 a pie-dish, and cover it with an equal por- 
 tion of vinegar and pump. water, and a little 
 salt: it will be ready in three days. 
 
 SALMON, BOILED I.\ WINE. Sea- 
 son with pepper and salt, some slices of ba- 
 con, fat and lean together, a pound of veal 
 cut thin, and a |xiund and a half of beef; put 
 these into a deep stewpan, then a fine piece 
 of fresh salmon cut out of the middle, then 
 pour in just as much water as will cover it, 
 and let it simmer over a gentle fire till the 
 salmon is almost done, then |xmr the water 
 away, and put in two quarts of white wine, 
 
 with an onion cut in slices, some thy , and 
 
 sweet maijoram, picked from the stalks; let 
 them stew sjeiuly, and while they are doing, 
 cut a sweetbread into thin slices, then cut the 
 slices across, and slew them in a - 
 with some rich gravy; when they are done 
 enough, add a quarter of a pint of essence 
 of ham; take up the salmon, lay it on a dish, 
 and - i \e witli the sweetbread, and its' sauce 
 poured over. 
 
 S \LMON, BOILED, BERWICK RE- 
 
 CF.IPT. The tail of the salmon is tirst cut 
 off near and below the last I'm, the tisli is 
 then cm up the back, keeping the Ixmo cm 
 
 . and then cut lip into pieces of half 
 a jMUiid each, the blood \\ell washed out of 
 the tish in culil wavr, but the wales not tol- 
 removed; a pickle to In- maile of .-all and 
 water, siroiii; enough to Ix-ar an egg, and, 
 when boiling, the fish to ! put in, ami Imil- 
 ed very quickly for lil'teen minutes. During 
 the boiling, the scum to U- taken ofl' carefully 
 
 i- it i i.--<. SaUCei; lobster, nick- 
 ed Ixitlcr. and anchovy san-e. 
 
 - i':i haide-t water is preferable 
 
 for boiiin.; salmon. 
 
 S \l.\10\, I'.OILKI), lu.f K.IPT BY AX 
 ARKRUKKS KI-HKKM VN. When the wa- 
 ter is hot, put salt into it, and stir it well; 
 
 when >iron U ' enough to (in 
 cast it from your mouth, it will do; when 
 the water boils put in the li.-h; when it U.ils 
 tn twenty minute- lor a salmon, am! 
 '-tie. NYheii salmon i.- cni 
 !i thick, let tiiem b-.iil ten 
 ininiites. S.-rve with it a -anc.- 
 the liquor the li.-h was boiled in. 
 
 SAL.MO.N SIT.AKS 15KOILED. "Cut 
 
 the steaks from the thickest parts of the fish 
 nearly an inch thick ; butter pieces of white 
 paper; fold the steaks in them, and broil 
 tin-in o\er a slow fire for ten or twelve minutes. 
 Take off the |>uper; serve and garnish with 
 plenty of fried parsley. Dressed in this 
 way, tliey may be put round salmon boiled, 
 in slices. Sauces; melted butter, lobster, 
 or shrimp sauce. 
 
 SALMON, FRESH BROILED. Clean 
 
 the salmon well, and cut it into -lice- aU>nl 
 an inch and a half thick; dry it thoroughly 
 in a clean cloth ; rub it over with sweet oil, 
 or thick melted butter, and spi inkie a little 
 salt over it: put your gridiron over a clear 
 fire, at some distance; when it is hot, wipe 
 it clean; rub it with sweet oil or lard; lay 
 the salmon on, and when it is done on one 
 side, turn it gently and broil the other. An- 
 chovy sauce, &c. 
 
 Olt. An oven does them best. 
 
 SALMON CAVEACH. Boil in two 
 quarts of vinegar three heads of shallots, half 
 an ounce of whole black |x-p|>er, three cloves, 
 two blades of mace, and a little salt. Fry 
 the fish, cut in slices, of a liiiht brown color 
 in fine oil, or clarified dripping; put them, 
 when cold, into a pan, pour over the \ ine^ar 
 and spices, and put on the top eight or ten 
 spoonfuls of oil. Soles may be done in this 
 way, only lay over them sliced onions instead 
 of shallots. 
 
 SALMON, DRIED KIPPER. Cutthe 
 
 fish up the hack, and takeout the bone; wipe 
 it veiy dean with a cloth; score it, and put a 
 handful, of salt on each side, and let it lie 
 tor thru' days; then hang it up to dry, and 
 it will be fit lor use in two days, and eats 
 well with a little pepper put over it, and 
 broiled. 
 
 SALMON, DRIED, TO DRESS. Lajr 
 
 . |iii t\\.i ( ,r three hours, tlien broil 
 it, .-liaking a little pepper over it. Dried 
 salmon is eaten broiled in pa|XT, and only 
 just warmed through; e'_ r ^' s-iticc and mashed 
 potatoes iitc usually served with it; or it 
 may be boiled, especially the bit next the 
 liead. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED. (1) Cut a 
 
 .-almoii into two or three pieces, put it in 
 a li-li-kettle, and set it on the fire with a 
 Mifticient quantity of water to cover it, am: 
 plenty of salt; as soon as it begins to boil, 
 set it aside to simmer very gently until done; 
 then take it oil' the fire, 'and let it stand in 
 the liquor until cold, take it out, lay the 
 pieces close together in a tub to pickle, and 
 M-.IT them live anchovies, a small quantity 
 of pounded saltpetre, and a quarter of a
 
 SAL 
 
 180 
 
 SAL 
 
 pint of sweet oil; being thus prepared, put 
 the (op of tlie salmon liquor into a stewpan, 
 to which add the same quantity of white 
 wine vinegar; put it on the fire to skim, 
 and boil ii for two or three minutes ; take it 
 off, and let it cool. When cold, pour it 
 over the salmon and 'tie it down ; in three 
 days turn it, and in a week's time it will 
 be fit for use ; this is merely in a small way ; 
 a great quantity being done at once, requires 
 neither oil nor anchovies. Serve garnished 
 with fennel. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED. (2) Cut the sal- 
 mon into pieces ; boil it as for eating, and lay 
 it on a dry cloth till the following day; boil 
 two quarts of good vinegar with one of the li- 
 quor the fish was boiled in, one ounce of whole 
 black pepper, half an ounce of allspice, and 
 four blades of mace. Put the salmon into 
 something deep, and pour over it the prepar- 
 ed vinegar when cold. A little sweet oil 
 put upon tlie top will make it keep a . twelve- 
 month. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED. (3) To a quart 
 of liquor the fish has been boiled in, put rath- 
 er more than half a pint of good vinegar, and 
 half an ounce of whole black pepper; boil 
 it, and when it is cold pour it over the fish, 
 previously laid in a deep dish. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED, TO DRESS. 
 Soak a piece of pickled salmon all night 
 in pump-water; then lay it on a fish-plate, 
 and put it in a stewpan, with three spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar, a little mace, some whole 
 pejjpcr in a bit of muslin, an onion, a nut- 
 meg bruised, a pint of white wine, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, some parsley, lemon-peel, 
 and a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
 flour; cover the stewpan very close, and let 
 it simmer over a gentle fire for a quarter of 
 an hour; then lake up the salmon, lay it in 
 a dish, keep it hot liefore the fire; let the 
 sauce boil till it is of a proper consistence; 
 take out tlie spice, onion, and sweet herbs, 
 and serve tlie sauce over die fish. 
 
 SALMON, POTTED. Take off the 
 head; cut the salmon in thick slices; wipe it 
 dry, but do not wash it; pound half an ounce of 
 nutmeg, mace, and cloves, the least part of 
 cloves, half an ounce of white pepper, and 
 some salt; chop fine one onion, six bay- 
 leaves, and six anchovies ; season each slice ; 
 put it into a pan, with very thin slices of 
 butter between each layer; bake it, when 
 well done ; drain off the butter, and, when 
 cold, pour over some clarified butler. 
 
 SALMON, TO SALT. Cut the fish up 
 the back, and cut out llie bone ; wipe il 
 clean, and sprinkle il with salt; let it lay a 
 
 night to drain off the liquor ; wipe it dry ; 
 rub on it two or three ounces of pounded 
 saltpetre; cut it into pieces; pack it close in 
 a pot with a thick layer of salt between each 
 layer of fish. If the brine does not rise in 
 a few days, boil a strong one, and pour it, 
 when cold, upon the salmon, which must 
 always be covered with it. 
 
 SALMON, STEW. Clean and scrape 
 the fish; cut it into slices, and stew it in a 
 rich white gravy. A little before serving, 
 add two table-spoonfuls of soy, one of es- 
 sence of anchovy, and a little salt, some 
 chopped parsley and chives. 
 
 SALMON, SPICED. Mix together, in 
 the proportion of one third of salt-and-water to 
 one pint of vinegar, one ounce of whole black 
 pepper, and one ounce of cinnamon. Cut 
 the salmon into slices, and Ixiil it in this; 
 when cold, pack it close in a pan, and pour 
 over it the liquor it was boiled in, with the 
 spices, so as to cover il completely; cover 
 tlie pan closely, to exclude tlie air. 
 
 SALMON, MACKEREL, SPRATS, 
 HERRINGS, &c. PICKI.KD. Cut tlie fish 
 into proper pieces; do not take oil the scales 
 make a brine strong enough to lirar an egg, 
 in which boil the fish ; it must lie boiled in 
 only just liquor enough to cmer it; do not 
 overboil it. When the fish is boiled, lay it 
 slant iuj;ly to drain off all the liquor; when 
 cold, [Kick it eluse in the kits, and till them 
 up with equal parts of the liquor the salmon 
 was boiled in (having first well skimmed it), 
 and best vinegar ; let them rest for a day; 
 fill up again, striking the sides <>f the kit with 
 a cooper's adz, until the kit will receive no 
 more ; then head them down as close as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 Obs. This is in the finest condition 
 \\lien fresh. Some sprigs of fresh-gathered 
 young fennel are the accompaniment*. 
 
 N. 13. The three indispensable marks 
 of tlie goodness of pickled s:ilmon are, 1st, 
 The brightness of the scales, and their stick- 
 ing fast to the skin ; 2dly, The firmness of 
 tlie flesh ; and, 3dly, Its fine, pale-red rose 
 color. Without these it is not fit to eat, 
 and was either stale before ii was pickled, 
 or has been kept too long after. 
 
 Tlie above was given us as the actual 
 practice of those who pickle it for the Lon- 
 don market. 
 
 N. B. Pickled salmon warmed by steam, 
 or in its pickle liquor, is a favorite dish at 
 Newcastle. 
 
 SALOOP. Boil a little water, wine, 
 lemon-peel, and sugar, together; then mix 
 with a small quantity of ihe powder, pre- 
 viously rubbed smooth, in a little cold water;
 
 SAL 
 
 181 
 
 SAN 
 
 stir the wlmle well together, and boil for a 
 few minutes. 
 
 SALPICON. This is a mixture compo- 
 sed of various article.-', such as sweetbreads, 
 fet livers, tongue, ham, champignons, truf- 
 fles, &c., pivxiously dressed, cut into dice, 
 and cooked in some rich since, and 
 widi pepjier, siilt, nutmeg, rlou-s, shallots, 
 sweet herbs, and a little butter; take care 
 that all the artic !>.- are sufficiently boiled l- 
 tore they are cm up. .Many things, such a.s 
 beetpuate, fowl, cock.-"-comlis, ii 
 most an_s article you please, may be added to 
 the alxiM'. 
 
 S \ I .T, Is as Plutarch calls it, sauce 
 
 "ice. 
 
 Common salt is more relishing than IKIS- 
 ket >:ilt ; it should l>e pre|jared tor the table 
 by drying it in a Dutch oven l*-fore the lire; 
 then put it mi a clean |>a|>cr, and roll it with 
 a rolling pin; if you pound it in a inntar 
 till it i> ijuite line, it will look as well as 
 basket s;ih. 
 
 %* Select for table-use die lumps of 
 salt. 
 
 Obs. Your Kilt-box mn-t have a close 
 co\cr. ,ind U- kept in a dry place. 
 
 SALT. SI'ICKD. Take four drachms 
 of grated nutmeg, the same of cloves, two 
 
 of whin- |>rppiT, two of allspice, two of 
 mace, two of bay-leaf, two of basil, and 
 two of tin me (ilii-st- three latlcr articles 
 should U- dried in an oven). I'ut them- all 
 into a mortar, and |>iind them to an impal- 
 pable |>owdi-r, and sift it. Take a pound 
 of line white ?ah, dry it thoroughly in an 
 oven, or stove, pound it a- line as |x^-il.l.-; 
 sift, and mix with it an ounce of tlie above 
 mentioned .-piii-: amalgamate them thor- 
 oughly, keep llle sj)ii-ed salt ill a tin IKIX, 
 
 which will shut |NT|iftl\ close. Use it in 
 the following prn|M>rtion: lour drachms to a 
 jmuilii of Ixmed \i-al. 
 
 SAI.TIM; Mi:vr. In the summer 
 season, e>|x-cially. mi at is In ,|uvuily sjxiiled 
 by the ' ook foi^eilini; to take nut tlie ker- 
 in llie ndiler of a round of beef, in 
 tlie fat in the middle of the round, those 
 a 1 mut the thick cud of ilw- Hank, &c.: if 
 tlieK are not taken out, all the salt in the 
 world will not keep the meat. 
 
 Tlie art of salting meat is to rub in tlie 
 salt thoroughly and e\enlv into every part, 
 and to till all ibe holes full of salt whi-n- llie 
 kernel- were taken out, and wliere tlie butch- 
 
 ucrs were. 
 
 A round nf la-el" of 25 |x>unds will take a 
 
 pound and a half of salt to be rubtx-d in all 
 
 In- turned and nibbed 
 
 every day witli die brine; it will be ready 
 16 
 
 for dressing in four or five days, if you do 
 not wish it very salt. 
 
 In summer, the sooner meat is salted after 
 it is killed, the better; and care must be 
 taken to defend it from the flies. 
 
 In winter, it will eat the shorter and 
 tenderer, if kept a few days (according to 
 the temperature of the weather) until its 
 fibre lias become short and tender, as these 
 changes do not take place after it has been 
 acted upon by the salt. 
 
 In frosty weather, take care the meat is 
 not frozen, and warm tlie salt in a frying- 
 pan. The extremes of lieat and cold are 
 equally unfavorable for the process of salting. 
 In tlie former, tlie meat changes before the 
 salt can ailed it: in the latter, it. is so har- 
 dened, and its juices are so congealed, that 
 the salt cannot penetrate it. 
 
 If you wish it red, rub it first with salt- 
 petre, in tlie proportion of half an ounce, and 
 tlie like quantity of moist sugar, to a pound 
 of common salt. 
 
 Von may impregnate meat with a very 
 agreeable vegetable flavor, by pounding some 
 sweet herbs, and an onion with the salt. 
 You mav make it still more relishing by ad- 
 ding a little ZEST or savory spice. 
 
 SALT PORK, BOILED. See Bacon. 
 
 SAMPHIRE, TO DRY, OR PRE- 
 SERVE. Take it in bunches :is it grows ; 
 set a large deep stewpan full of water on the 
 fire; as soon as it boils, throw in a little 
 .-alt, and put in the samphire; when it looks 
 of a fine green, remove tlie pan directly from 
 die fne, and take out llie samphire with a 
 lork; lay it on sieves to drain ; w lien cold, 
 lay it on earthen plates, strew sugar well 
 over it, next day turn them on a sieve, and 
 strew it ajain with su^ar, keep turning dai- 
 ly until it is dry; take care tlie stove is not 
 too hot. 
 
 SAMPHIRE, TO PICKLE. Lay some 
 samphire that is green in a pan, sprinkle 
 over it two or three handfuls of salt, and 
 cover it with spring water, and let it lay for 
 twenty-four hours; then put it into a large 
 brass saucepan ; throw in a handful of salt ; 
 cover the pan close, and set it over a Tery 
 slow fire; let it stand till it is quite green, 
 and crisp ; then take it off, for if it becomes 
 soft it is spoiled; put it into a jar, cover it 
 close, and when it U cold, tie it down. 
 
 S\M)\\ ICIIES FOR TRAVEL- 
 LERS. Spread butter, very thinly, upon 
 die upper part of a stale loaf of liread cut 
 
 very smooth, and then cut oil die slice; now 
 cut oflTanoihrr thin slice, but spread it with 
 butter on die under side, without which pre- 
 caution tlie two slices of bread will not fit
 
 SAUCES 
 
 182 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 one another. Next take some cold beet, or 
 ham, and cut it into very minute particles. 
 Sprinkle these thickly over the butter, and, 
 having added a little mustard, put the slices 
 face to face, and press them together. Last- 
 ly, cot the whole into four equal portions, 
 each of which is to lie wrap|)ed'in a separate 
 piece of paper. 
 
 SANDWICHES. (1) Cat some bread 
 into thin slices, pare off the crust, and spread 
 a little butter on them ; cut them nicely into 
 oblong pieces, put between each gome bits 
 of fowl, and then thin bits of ham, both nice- 
 ly trimmed; add a little mustard and .-alt. 
 Any cold roasted or potted meat may be used. 
 Serve them for luncheon, garnished with 
 curled parsley. 
 
 SANDWICHES, (2) Properly prepar- 
 ed, are an elegant and convenient luncheon 
 or supper, but have got out of fashion, from 
 the bad manner in which they are common- 
 ly made : to cut die bread neatly with a 
 sharp knife seems to be considered the only 
 essential, and the lining is composed of any 
 offal odds and ends, that cannot be sent to 
 table in any other form. Whatever is used 
 must be carefully trimmed from every bit of 
 skin, gristle, &e. and nothing introduced 
 but what you are alisolntely certain will be 
 acceptable to the mouth. 
 
 SANDWICHES, CAKE. Cut a sponge 
 cake, a few days old, as for bread sand- 
 w iches, and spread strawberry jam or cur- 
 rant jelly over them. 
 
 SAUCE. (1) Few things require more 
 care than making sauce?, as most of tlieui 
 should be stirred constantly, the whole atten- 
 tion should be directed to them ; the better 
 way therefore, is to prepare the sauces before 
 cooking those articles which demand equal 
 care; they may be kept hot in the bain- 
 marie. 
 
 Butler, and those sauces containing eggs, 
 ought never to boil. 
 
 The thickest stewpans should be used for 
 making sauces, and wooden-spoons used 
 for stirring them. 
 
 SAUCE. (2) Mix together a pint of 
 vinegar, two shallots or heads of garlic, a 
 teu-spoouful of cayenne, three large table- 
 spoonfuls of Indian soy or mushroom ketch- 
 up, and two of walnut pickle. Let it stand 
 a week, shaking it daily; strain, and bottle 
 it for use. 
 
 FOR ANY SORT OF MEAT. 
 
 Boil and strain three table-spoonfuls of gra- 
 vy, two of vinegar, a blade of mace, a little 
 pepper, salt, and a large sliced onion. 
 
 ANCHOVY. Pound three an- 
 chovies in a mortar with a little bit of but- 
 ter; nib it through a double hair sieve with 
 the back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into 
 almost half a pint of melted butter ; or stir 
 in a table-spoonful of essence of anchovy. 
 To the above, many cooks add lemon-juice 
 and cayenne. 
 
 APPLE. (1) Pare, core, and 
 
 slice some apples; boil them in water, with 
 a bit of lemon-peel; when tender, mash them; 
 add to them a bit of butter die size of a 
 walnut, and some brown sugar. Heat, and 
 serve in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 APPLE. (2) Pare and core 
 
 three good->iwd baking apples; put them 
 into a well-tinned pint saucepan, with two 
 table-spoonfuls of cold water; cover the 
 saucepan close, and set it on a trivet over a 
 slow fire a couple of hours before dinner 
 (some apples will take a long time slewing, 
 others will be ready in a quarter of an hour): 
 when the apples are done enough, pour off 
 the water, let them stand a few minutes to 
 get dry ; then beat them up \\ ith a fork, 
 with a bit of butter about as biff ns a nut- 
 meg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. 
 N. B. Some add lemon-peel, grated, or 
 minced fine, or Ixiil a bit with the apples. 
 
 ATTELETS. Take of finely- 
 minced jwrsley, mushrooms, and shallots, a 
 table-spoonful each ; fry them with a little but- 
 ter, and then dredge in a little flour; moisten 
 the mixture with some good stock, season 
 it with |X'|>per and salt, and boil it till it 
 begins to thicken ; then take it off the tire, 
 and add the welUjeaten yolks of two or 
 
 . Stir it well all the time it is 
 making. 
 
 BEEF-GRAVY, or Brotcn 
 
 Sauce for Ragout, Game, Poultry, 
 Fish, 4'C. If you want gravy immediately, 
 see Potato Soup, or (ilaze. If yon have 
 time enough, furnish a thick and well-tinned 
 stewpan with a thin slice of sail |x>rk, or an 
 ounce of butter, and a middling-sized onion; 
 on this lay a pound uf nice, juicy gravy 
 beef, (as the object in making gravy is to 
 extract the nutritious succulence of the meat, 
 it must lx: beaten to comminute the contain- 
 ing vessels, and scored to augment the sur- 
 face to the action of the water) ; cover the 
 stewpan, and set it on a slow fire; when 
 the meat begins to brown, turn it about, 
 and let it get slightly browned (but take 
 care it is not at all burned): then pour in a 
 pint and a half of lioiliiig water; set the 
 pan on the fire; whin it boils, carefully 
 catch tlie scum, and then put in a crust of 
 bread toasted brown (don't burn it) a
 
 SAUCES 
 
 183 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 prig of winter savory, or lemon thvme and 
 parsley a roll of thin cut lemon-|>eel, a doz- 
 en berries of allspice. :nnl a dozen of black 
 pepper. Cover tin- stew|n close, and let 
 it stew very gently tor about tun hours, 
 then strain it through a sieve into a basin. 
 Now, if you wish to thicken it, set a clean 
 stewpan mer a .-low lire, with about an 
 ounce of Ixitter in it; when it is melted, 
 dredge to it, by degrees, as inucli flour as 
 will dry it up, stirring them well together; 
 when thoroughly mixed, pour in a little 
 gravy stir il well together, and add the re- 
 mainder by degrees; set it over the fire, let 
 it simmer gently fur fifteen minutes longer, 
 skim off the fat, kc. as it rises; when it i.s 
 about as tliick us cream, squeeze it through 
 a tamis. or line .-ieve and you will have a 
 fine rich Brown Sauce, nt:i very moderate 
 expense, and without much trouble. 
 
 FOR ROILED BEEF. Mince 
 
 a large onion, parboil it, and drain off the 
 
 '.it the onion into a saucepan, with 
 
 a table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 
 
 .v, and one ounce of Initter 
 
 with it little lloiir. Let it boil 
 
 a minutes, and add a s|XH>nful of 
 
 cut rajicrs, which must Iw thoroughly heat- 
 
 ed before the sauce is served. 
 
 BROW.V. Take a pound or 
 
 two of ste.iks, two or three pounds of veal, 
 some pickings of fowl, carrots, and onions, 
 put all then- into a saucepan with a glass 
 n|" water, and set it on a brisk lire; when 
 ..iic:-, put it on a 
 
 slow lire, that the ji-IK may lake color with- 
 out burning; and :is soon as it is brown, 
 moi.-tcii it with stock (i-r water), add a 
 bunch of pi. 
 
 salt it well, and set it (in tile fire I": 
 hours, then .-iiai'i; dilute a little roux with 
 your liquor, ami I, nil it an hour mer a gentle 
 lire, take oil' all the fat, and run il through 
 a bolting. 
 
 BO\.\E DOUCHE, FOR 
 
 GOOSE, DUCK, OR RA-I P..KK. .Mix 
 
 -j* lul of mad -[XMin- 
 
 ful of salt, and a l'<-u v.mis of caymie, in a 
 large wine-glas.-liil of d nvi ,,r Port wine; 
 jKiur it into the goose by a slit in the apron 
 ju.-t More serving up ; or, as ail the com- 
 pany ma\ not like it, stir it into a quarter 
 of a pint of thick melted butter, or thicken- 
 ed gravy, and send it up in a Ix>at. A fh- 
 vnrite reli.-h lor roast |xnk or u'eese, N 
 two uunci - "I l> av. ounce 
 
 "I |Vi>!, I,. ui. ii-|-el pared thin, -ami' of sill, 
 minced eschalot, and lialf a drachm of 
 
 me l'|i|-r, ditto of cilric ac-id, steeped 
 for a iWlniJht in a pin! >ke it 
 
 up well every day ; let it stand a day to set- 
 tle, and decant the clear liquor; bottle it, 
 and cork it close ; a table-spoonful or more 
 in a quarter pint of gravy, or melted butter. 
 
 BREAD. (1) Boil, in a pint of 
 
 water, the crumb of a French roll or of a 
 slice of bread, a minced onion, a 
 whole pepper. When the onion is tender, 
 drain off the water, pick out the jiepper- 
 corns, and nib the bread through a sieve; 
 then put it into a .saucepan, with a gill of 
 cream, a bit of butter, and a little salt. 
 Stir it till it boil, and serve it in a sauce- 
 tureen. 
 
 BREAD. (2) Mix, in rather 
 
 more than half a pint of milk or water, a 
 slice of grated bread, a dessert-spoonful of 
 potato Hour, a small onion pounded, a bit of 
 butter the size of a. walnut, a few whole 
 pepper corns, a little m:u-e, and salt. Boil 
 it well, pick out the spices, and mix it 
 smooth. Serve <|iiite hot. 
 
 BREAD. (3) Put a small 
 
 tea-cupful of bread crumbs into a Mrwpan, 
 pour on it as much milk as it will soak up, 
 and a little more; or instead of the milk, 
 take the giblets, head, neck, and legs, &c. 
 of the jxmltry, &c. and stew them, and 
 moisten the bread with this liquor; put it on 
 the lire with a middling-sized onion, and a 
 down Ijerrit s of jx-pper or allspice, or a fit- 
 tie mace; let it Ixiil, then stir it well, and 
 let it simmer till it is quite stiff, and then 
 put to it aUuit two tiible-s|xKinfuls of cream 
 ur melted butter, or a little .K.d brolh; 
 take out (he onion and |>epper, and it is 
 ready. 
 
 Obi. This is an excellent accompani- 
 ment to game and ]>oultry. 
 
 FOR BOILED MEAT, GAME, 
 
 AND POULTHV. Bruise ihr: yolks of two 
 hard-boiled eggs with a little water and salt ; 
 bone one anchovy, and mince it, a small on- 
 ion, I wo shallots, a little parsley and tarra- 
 oid a few capers; mix them with the 
 egg, add a table-s|x>onful of fine oil, a little 
 mustard, two table-spoonfuls of lemon, and 
 one ol tarragon \inrgar; mix all exceed- 
 ingly well together, (Hit it into a -auce-tu- 
 reen, and serve it uiih the broil; or it may 
 be served with cold u-al. 
 
 CAPER. To make a quarter 
 
 of a pint, take a table-spoonful of capers, 
 and two tea-s|xionfnls of vinegar. 
 
 The present liishion of cutting capers is 
 to mince, one-third of in. m very line, and 
 divide the others in half; put them into a 
 i|iiarler of a pint of mrlled butler, or good 
 Ihii-kened ^.a\\; >iir them die same way
 
 SAUCES 
 
 184 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 as you did the melted butter, or it will oil. 
 Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of 
 parsley, or chervil, or tarragon, and add 
 these to the sauce ; others tlie juice of half 
 a Seville orange, or lemon. 
 
 Keep the caper bottle \c\y closely corked, 
 and do not use any of the caper liquor: if 
 tjie capers are not well covered with it, they 
 will immediately spoil; and it is an excel- 
 lent ingredient in hashes, &c. The Dutch 
 use it as a fish sauce, mixing it with melted 
 butter. 
 
 CARRIER. Scrape a small 
 
 stick of horse-radish, cut an onion or two 
 in thin slices, put these into a sauce-tureen 
 with a little vinegar and whole pepper; set 
 the tureen in die dripping-pan under a 
 shoulder of mutton whilst roasting ; serve 
 this sauce quite hot with die meat. 
 
 CELERY, WHITE. Pick and 
 
 wash two heads of nice white celery; cut it 
 iuto pieces about an inch long; stew it in a 
 pint of water, and a tea-spoonful of salt, till 
 the celery is tender ; roll an ounce of butter 
 with a table-spoonful of flour; add this to 
 half a pint of cream, and give it a boil up. 
 
 CELERY PUREE, for boiled 
 
 Turkey, Veal, Fowls, fyc. Cut small 
 half a dozen heads of nice white celery dial 
 is quite clean, and two onions sliced; put 
 in a two-quart stewpan, with a small lump 
 of butter : sweat them over a slow fire till 
 quite tender, then put in two spoonfuls of 
 nour, half a pint of water (or beef or veal 
 broth), salt and pepper, and a little cream or 
 milk ; boil it a quarter of an hour, and pass 
 through a fine hair sieve with the back of a 
 spoon. If you wish for celery sauce when 
 celery is not in season, a quarter of a drachm 
 of celery seed, or a little essence of celery, 
 will impregnate half a pint of sauce with a 
 sufficient portion of die flavor of the vege- 
 table. 
 
 CHESTNUT, FOR ROAST 
 
 TURKEY. Scald a pound of good chest- 
 nuts in hot water for five minutes, skin diem, 
 and stew them slowly for two hours in white 
 stock, seasoned and diickened with butter 
 and flour. Cut a pound of pork sausages 
 into bits alxmt an inch long, dust them with 
 flour, and fry them a light brown ; lay diem 
 into the dish on which die turkey is to be 
 served, and pour the chestnuts and sauce 
 over them. Some people prefer die fried 
 sausages stewed a little with the chestnuts ; 
 but diis mediod makes die sauce of a darker 
 color. 
 
 CURRANT, FOR VENISON. 
 
 Boil in water for a few minutes an ounce of 
 
 nicely-cleaned currants, add direc table* 
 s|xx>nfuls of grated bread, a piece of butter 
 the size of a walnut, four cloves, and a glass 
 of Port wine; stir it till it boil, and serve it 
 hot. 
 
 CURRY, Is made by stirring a 
 
 sufficient quantity of curry powder, into gra- 
 vy or melted butter, or onion sauce, or onion 
 gravy. The compositions of curry powder, 
 and the palates of those who eat it, vary so 
 much, that we cannot recommend any spe- 
 cific quantity. The cook must add it by 
 degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take 
 care not to put in too much. 
 
 DUTCH. (1) Beat up the yolks 
 
 cf six rii3, mix in a little flour, cream, salt, 
 and lemon vinegar. Strain it through a 
 sieve, add a small piece of fresh Ixitter, two 
 blades of pounded mace, and a little pepper. 
 Put it into a saucepan, and stir it till it 
 is almost boiling. 
 
 DUTCH. (2) Put into a stewpan 
 
 a tea-spoonful of flour, four table-spoonfuls of 
 elder vinegar, a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter, the yolks of five eggs, and a little 
 salt ; keep stirring it over die fire, and work 
 it well till thick. If it be not curdled, it 
 will not require to be strained. Season 
 with pepper. 
 
 DUTCH, FOR FISH OR BOIL- 
 ED FOWLS. Mix, with two ounces of 
 fresh butter, one tea-spoonful of flour, two 
 table-spoonfuls of cold water, tlio same 
 quantity of vinegar, and one well-beaten 
 egg; put it into a saucepan, and stir it over 
 the fire till it be quite hot, but do not allow 
 it to boil. 
 
 EGG. (1) This agreeable accom- 
 paniment to roasted poultry, or salted fish, 
 is made by putting three eggs into boiling 
 water, and boiling diem for alx>ut twelve 
 minutes, when they will be hard; put them 
 into cold water till you want them. This 
 will make the yolks firmer, and prevent 
 their surface turning black, and yon can rut 
 diem much neater: use only two of the 
 whites, cut the whiles into small dice, tlie 
 yolk? into bits aliout a quarter of an inch 
 square; put them into a sauce-boat ; pour 
 to them half a pint of melted butter, and 
 stir them together. 
 
 If you are for superlative egg sauce, 
 pound the yolks of a couple of eggs, and rub 
 them with the melted butter to thicken it. 
 
 N. B. Some cooks garnish salt fish with 
 hard-boiled eggs cut in half. 
 
 EGG. (2) Boil three or four 
 
 eggs about a quarter of an hour, put them
 
 SAUCES 
 
 185 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 into cold water, take off the shells, cut three 
 of tin- whites and four yolks into small 
 pieces, mix them with melted butler, and 
 heat it well. 
 
 ESCHALOT. Take fmr es- 
 chalots. ;uiil make it in the same manner as 
 garlir since. Or, you may make this sauce 
 more e\lem|x>raiieoiisly by putting: two table- 
 spoonl'uls of eschalot wine, ami a sprinkling 
 of |x-p|x-r ami nail, into (almost) half a pint 
 of thick melted butter. This is .m excellent 
 sauce for chops or steaks; many are very 
 fond of it with roasted or boiled meat, 
 poultry, &c. 
 
 ESCHALOT, FOR BOIL- 
 ED Ml TT<>\. This is a very frequent 
 and satisfactory .-nlistitute for raper sauce. 
 Miner (''in e-.-lialots \cry line, and put them 
 into a small sauce|>an, with almost half a pint 
 of the liquor the mutton was I mi led in: let 
 them hod iij> tor live minutes; then put in a 
 tablc-s|XM>nfiil of vinegar, a quarter tea-spoon- 
 ful of jx-pper, a little sail, and a bit of butter 
 (as big as a walnut) rolled in tlonr; shake 
 togetlier till it boils. 
 
 ESCAVEKE SAUCE, FOR 
 
 COLD GAME, FOWL, OR MEAT. Beat, 
 
 ina marble mortar, tin- following ingredients: 
 five (loves of garlic, six cloves of shal- 
 lot, a? much pounded ginger as will lie upon 
 a .-i\|-iic t -, and the same of cayenne, a ta- 
 ii'ul of coriander seed, and a little 
 salt. 1'oiir upon ilu-m, lx>iling hot, a pint 
 of tlie liest white wine \ literal ; add the peel 
 of a lemon, cut very thin. When cold, put 
 the whole into a bottle, cork it tightly, and 
 shake it well before using. 
 
 FOR FISH. (1) The melted 
 
 r lish. should l- thick enough to ad- 
 bere to llie fish, and, therefore, must be of the 
 thickness of light batter, at it is to be dilut- 
 ed with essence of ancho\y, soy, mushroom 
 ketchup, cayenne, or Chili vinegar, lemons 
 or lemon-juice, or artificial lemon-juice, &c. j 
 which are e\|>ected al all well-served tables, j 
 Cooks, who are jealous of the reputation of : 
 their i.i-ie, and housekeepers who value their 
 healih, will prepare these articles at home: 
 there are qnin- as many reasons why they 
 nhould, as UH-I-C are for the preference usually 
 l_'H'"i in home-baked bread. and home-brew- 
 fd lx-T. The liver of tin- lish pounded and 
 mixed with parsley and butter, with a little 
 lemon-juice, ike. is an elegant and inoffensive 
 relish to lish. 
 
 !'< )R FISH. (2) Two wine-gbss- 
 
 i, and two of walnut pickle, four of 
 mushroom ketchup, half a dozen anchovies, 
 |v>uiidcd, the like number of eschalots sliced 
 
 and pounded, a table-spoonful of *oy, and 
 half a drachm of cayenne pepper ; let them 
 simmer gently for ten minutes ; strain it, and 
 when cold, put it into bottles, well corked, 
 and sealed over, it will keep for a considera- 
 ble time. 
 
 Obs. This is commonly called Quin's 
 sauce. 
 
 FOR FISH. (3) A table- 
 spoonful of anchovy juice, one of soy, and 
 two of mushroom ketchup, mixed in a quar- 
 ter of a pound of melted butter. 
 
 FOR FISH. (4) Three ancho- 
 vies and an onion chopped, and a small hit 
 of horseradish boiled in some stock, then 
 strained, and thickened with a piece of but- 
 ler rolled in flour. 
 
 FOR FISH. (5) Boil in half a 
 
 pint of water one or two anchovies, two 
 cloves, a blade of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, 
 a few peppercorns, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of Port wine; strain and thicken it with a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 FOR FISH. (6) Mix well with 
 
 two ounces of melted butter, of mushroom 
 ketchup, essence of anchovies, and lemon 
 pickle, a table-spoonful each, a tea-spoonful 
 of soy, and a little cayenne. Boil it before 
 serving. 
 
 FOR FISH. (7) Chop two dozen 
 
 of whole ancho\ie>, mix with them half a 
 pint of anchovy liquor, two shallots cut small, 
 and three pints of Tort wine, one of vinegar, 
 one lemon sliced, one handful of scraped 
 horseradish, and ten blades of mace, one 
 nutmeg, twelve peppercorns, six cloves, all 
 bruised, and one table-spoonful of floor of 
 mustard. Boil these togetlier about fifteen 
 or twenty minutes; when cold, strain and 
 bottle it, waxing the corks. It will keep 
 good a year. A table-spoonful improves 
 oyster sauce, and that quantity is sufficient 
 for a sauce-tureen of melted butter. 
 
 FOR FISH. (8) A quart of Port 
 
 wine, half a pint of best vinegar, one pound 
 of bruised anch\ie-, one ounce of mace and 
 one of cloves, half an ounce of pepper, one 
 large onion, and the peel of one lemon; boil 
 all these ingredients together, over a slow 
 fire, till a pint is wasted; then strain, and 
 bottle it, and keep it closely stopped. 
 
 FISH < )i; Mi: \T SAUCE, TO MAKE 
 A QUART BOTTLE OF. To half a 
 bottle of vinegar put one ounce of cayenne, 
 two cloven of garlic, one table-spoonful of 
 soy, two of walnut, and two of mushroom 
 ketchup. Let it stand six days, shaking it
 
 SAUCES 
 
 186 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 frequently, then add the remaining half of 
 the bottle of vinegar; let it stand another 
 week, strain, and put it into small bottles. 
 
 WHITE, FOR FISH. Four 
 
 anchovies chopped, two glasses of white 
 wine, a large one of vinegar, an onion stuck 
 with three cloves, and cut into quarters ; let 
 all these simmer till the anchovies dissolve; 
 strain it, and add a quarter of a pound of 
 butter kneaded in a table-spoonful of flour. 
 When it has melted, stir in gradually, one 
 way, half a pint of cream, taking care that 
 it do not boil. When thoroughly heated, 
 serve in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 LIVER, FOR FISH. Boil the 
 
 liver of the fish, and pound it in a mortar 
 with a little flour ; stir it into some broth, 
 or some of the liquor the fish was boiled in, 
 or melted butter, parsley, and a few grains 
 of cayenne, a little essence of anchovy, or 
 soy, or ketchup; give it a boil up, and rub 
 it through a sieve: you may add a little lem- 
 on-juice, or lemon cut in dice. 
 
 PINK, FOR FISH. Put into a 
 
 pan, or wide-mouthed jar, one quart of good 
 vinegar, half a pint of Port wine, half an 
 ounce of cayenne, one large table-spoonful 
 of walnut ketchup, two ditto of anchovy 
 liquor, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, 
 and six cloves of garlic. Let it remain forty 
 hours, stirring it two or three times a-day; 
 run it through a flannel bag, and put it into 
 half-pint bottles. 
 
 FOR PIKE. Mix with a pint 
 
 of cream a table-spoonful of anchovy sauce, 
 the same of soy, and two of ketchup, a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour; put it into a 
 saucepan, and stir it one way till nearly 
 boiling. 
 
 WHITE, FOR PIKE. Simmer 
 
 till half wasted, two table-spoonfuls of white 
 wine, one of vinegar, half a small onion, and 
 some grated nutmeg ; add a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour, then a small tea-cupful of 
 cream; heat it thoroughly, stirring it all the 
 time, and taking care that it do not boil. 
 
 GREEN GOOSEBERRY. Boil 
 
 gome green gooscl>erries in water till soft, 
 and sweeten them with brown sugar. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY. Top and tail 
 
 them close with a pair of scissors, and scald 
 half a pint of green gooseberries; drain them 
 on a hair sieve, and put them into half a 
 pint of melted butter. Some add grated 
 ginger and lemon-peel, and the French, min- 
 ced fennel; others send up the gooteberriea 
 whole or mashed, without any butler, &c. 
 
 GOOSE STUFFING. Chop 
 
 very fine an ounce of onion and half an ounce 
 of^green sage leaves ; put them into a stew- 
 pan with four s|x>onftils of water; simmer 
 gently for ten minutes; then put in a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper and salt, and one ounce 
 of fine bread crumbs; mix well together; 
 then pour to it a quarter of a pint of broth, 
 or gravy, or melted butter, stir well togeth- 
 er, and simmer it a few minutes longer. 
 
 GRANDE. Take three or fonr 
 
 slices iVurn the under part of a knuckle of 
 veal, and put them into a larire. stewpan 
 with two ladleful.s of consomme, set it on a 
 fierce (ire, taking care to skim it as much as 
 possible, and with a cloth wipe away all 
 that adheres to the inside of the stewpan ; 
 when the consomme is reduced, prick the 
 slices with a knife to let out the gravy ; then 
 set the stewpan on a slow fire, that the meat 
 and glaze may adhere together, and as soon 
 as the latter is of a clear light color, take it 
 off, leave it covered for ten minutes, then fill 
 it up \\iih rich stock, in which is four or 
 five large carrots, and three onions; let il 
 boil slowly for two hours. In the meantime 
 put the knuckle into a saucepan with four or 
 five carrots, as many onions (one stuck with 
 cloves), and two ladlefuls of consomme; 
 set it on a brisk fire that the liquor may re- 
 duce to a jelly; as soon as this jelly begins 
 to take color, pour on it the liquor from the 
 oilier saucepan to dissolve the jelly gradual- 
 ly; then make it boil. Dilute some rorux 
 with the above liquor, and add it to the meat 
 with some champignons, a bunch of parsley, 
 scallions, and two bay-leaves, skim it when 
 it begins to boil, and again when the roux 
 is added, put in more consomme or roux, 
 according as it is too thick or too thin. 
 
 When it has boiled an hour and a half, 
 take off all the fat ; and when the meat is 
 quite done, strain the sauce through a bol- 
 ting-cloth. 
 
 GRILL. To half a pint of gravy, 
 
 add an ounce of fresh butter, and a table- 
 spoonful of flour, previously well rublx?d to- 
 gether, the same of mushroom or walnut 
 ketchup, two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, 
 one of made mustard, one of minced capers, 
 half a one of black pep|>er, a quarter of a 
 rind of a lemon grated very thin, a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of anchovies, and a little 
 eschalot wine, or a very small piece of min- 
 ced eschalot, and a little Chili vinegar, or a 
 few grains of cayenne ; simmer together for 
 a few minutes; pour a little of it over the 
 grill ; and send up tlie rest in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 HARVEY. Chop twelve ancho- 
 vies, bones and all, very small, with one 
 ounce of cayenne pepper, six spoonfuls of
 
 SAUCES 
 
 187 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 8<ly, six ditto of good walnut pickle, three 
 heads of garlic, chopped not very small, a 
 Quarter of an ounce of cochineal, two heads 
 of shallots, chopped not very small, one gal- 
 Ion of vinegar; let it stand fourteen days, 
 stir it well, twice or thrice every day; then 
 pass it through a jelly-bag, and repeat this 
 till it is perfectly clearj_ then bottle it, and 
 tie a bladder over the cork. 
 
 HORSERADISH, TO EAT 
 
 WITH HOT OR COLD MEAT. Mix a tea- 
 epoonful of mustard, a table-spoonful of vin- 
 egar, and three of cream ; add a little salt, 
 and as much finely-grated horseradish as 
 will make the sauce the consistence of 
 onion sauce. 
 
 FOR HASHES AND MADE 
 
 DISHES. A pint of Port wine, twelve 
 anchovies chopped, a quarter of a pint of 
 vinegar, as much beaten pepper as will lie 
 on half a crown, two or three cloves, a 
 blade or two of mace, a nutmeg bruised, 
 One small onion minced, two bay-, 
 little lemon thyme, marjoram, and parsley, 
 and a piece of horseradish about the length 
 of a linger split into quarters; put all into a 
 saucepan, and let it simmer till the ancho- 
 vies are dissolved ; then strain it, and, when 
 old, bottle it for use. 
 
 FOR HASHED OR MINCED 
 
 VK.VI.. Take the bones of cold roast or 
 boiled veal, dredge them well with flour, 
 and put them into a stewpan with a pint 
 and a hall" of broth or water, a small onion, 
 a little grated or I'mely-minced lemon-peel, 
 or the peel of a quarter of a sin. ill lemon, 
 pared as thin as possible, half a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, and a blade of pmimled mace; to 
 thicken it, rub a table-spoonful of Hour into 
 half an ounce of butler ; stir it into the 
 broth, and set it on the fire, and let it boil 
 Ten gently fur alxiut half an hour; strain 
 through a i.uiiis or sieve, and it is ready to 
 put to the \eal to warm up ; uliii-li in to be 
 done by placing the stewpan by the side of 
 the lire. Squeeze in hall" a lemon, ami cov- 
 er the bottom of the di-h with ti.asted bread 
 ippeU cut into triangle*, and garnish the 
 diah with slices of ham or bacon. 
 
 FOR IIASHF.S OF MUTTON 
 
 OR BEEF. Unless yon ,ue i|iiite sure you 
 perfectly understand the palate ,,f those you 
 are working for, show those who are" to 
 eat the ha-h tins rn-ript. and !<,' of tln-m to 
 direct you how they wish it seasoned. 
 
 Half the number of the ingredient! enu- 
 merated will lie more than eiioii-_'h: !><it a it 
 U a receipt so often wanted we In 
 variety . 
 
 Chop the bones and fragments of the joint, 
 
 &c., and put them into a stewpan; cover 
 them with boiling water, six berries of 
 black pepper, the same of allspice, a small 
 bundle of parsley, half a bead of celery cut 
 in pieces, and a small sprig of savory, or 
 lemon thyme, or sweet marjoram ; cover up, 
 and let it simmer gently for half an hour. 
 
 Slice half an ounce of onion, and put it 
 into a stewpan with an ounce of butter ; fry 
 it over a sharp fire for about a couple of 
 minutes, till it take* a little color; then stir 
 in as much flour as will make it a stiff 
 paste, and by degrees mix with it tlie gravy 
 you hare made from the bones, &c. ; let it 
 boil very gently for about a quarter of an 
 hour, till it is the consistence of cream; 
 strain it through a tamis or sieve into a ba- 
 sin ; put it back into the stewpan : to season 
 it, cut in a few pickled onions, or walnuts, 
 or a couple of gherkins, and a table-spoonful 
 of mushroom ketchup, or walnut or other 
 pickle liquor; or some capers, and caper 
 li'liior; or a table-spoonful of ale; or a little 
 eschalot, or tarragon vinegar; cover the bot- 
 tom of the dish with sippets of bread (that 
 they may become savory reservoirs of gra- 
 vy), which some toast and cut into triangles. 
 Vmi may garnish it with fried bread sippets. 
 
 N. B. To hash meat in perfection, it 
 should be laid in this gravy only just long 
 enough to get properly warm through. 
 
 O6t. If any of the gravy that was sent 
 up with, or ran from the joint when it was 
 roa.-ied, l>e left, it will be a great improve- 
 ment to the hash. 
 
 If you wish to make mock venison, instead 
 of the onion, put in two or three cloves, a 
 table-spoonful of currant jelly, and the same 
 quantity of claret or Port wine, instead of 
 
 the ketchup. 
 
 You may make a curry hash by adding 
 some curry jam. 
 
 .V B. A pint of Beef-gravy Sauce is an 
 excellent gravy to warm up either meat or 
 poultry. 
 
 KELLY'S, FOR BOILED 
 
 TRIPE, CALF-HEAD, OR COW-HKKI.. 
 
 ( iarlic \ ineuar, a table-spoonful ; of mustard, 
 brown sugar, and black pepper, a tea-spoon- 
 ful each; stirred into half a pint of oiled 
 melted butter. 
 
 KELLY'S PIQUANTE. Pound 
 
 a table-spoonful of capers, and one of minced 
 parsley, as fine as possible; then add the 
 \olk-i of three hard eggs, rub them well to- 
 U'etlier 5 ' with a lable-opoonfiil of mustard; 
 bone <i\ a'lrlmv ies, and |>o:iiid tlh-in, rub 
 them thioiii:h a hair >ie\e, and mix with two 
 table. sjnonl'nU of oil, one of vinegar, one of 
 eseiial >! ditto, and a few grains f cayenne 
 |>c|>|>ei ; rub all !li'-*e well (>:," :her in a 
 d; then
 
 SAUCES 
 
 189 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 stir them into half a pint of good gravy, or 
 melted butter, and put the whole through a 
 sieve. 
 
 LEMON. Pare a lemon, and 
 
 cut it into slices twice as thick as a half- 
 crown piece; divide these into dice, and put 
 them into a quarter of a pint of melted but- 
 ter. Some cooks mince a bit of the lemon- 
 peel (pared very thin) very fine, and add it 
 to the above. 
 
 LEMON AND LIVER. Pare 
 
 off the rind of a lemon, or of a Seville orange, 
 as thin as possible, so as not to cut off any 
 of the white with it; now cut off all the 
 white, and cut the lemon into slices about 
 as thick as a couple of half-crowns ; pick out 
 the pips, and divide the slices into small 
 squares: add these, and a little of the peel 
 minced very tine to tlie liver, prepared as 
 directed above, and put them into the melted 
 butter, and warm them together; but do not 
 let them boil. 
 
 N. B. The poulterers can always let you 
 have fresh livers, if that of the fowl or rabbit 
 is not good, or not large enough to make as 
 much sauce as you wish. 
 
 Obs. Some cook., instead of pounding, 
 mince the liver very fine (with half as much 
 bacon), and leave out the parsley; others 
 ndd the juice of half a lemon, and" some of 
 the peel grated, or a tea-spoonful of tarragon 
 or Chili vinegar, a table-spoonful of white 
 wine, or a little beaten mace, or nutmeg, 
 or allspice: if you wish it a little more lively 
 on the palate, pound an eschalot, or a few 
 leaves of tarragon or basil, with anchovy, or 
 ketchup* or cayenne. 
 
 LIVER AND PARSLEY, OR 
 
 LIVER AND LEMON. Wash the liver 
 (it must be |>erfectly fresh) of a fowl or rab- 
 bit, and boil it five minutes in five table- 
 spoonfuls of water; chop it fine, or pound 
 or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor 
 it was boiled in, and nib it through a sieve: 
 wash about One-third the bulk of parsley 
 leaves, put them on to boil in a little boiling 
 water, with a tea-spoonful of salt in it; lay 
 it on a hair sieve to drain, and mince it very 
 fine; mix it with the liver, and put it into a 
 quarter pint of melted butter, and warm it 
 up ; do not let it boil. 
 
 LOBSTER. (1) Bruise the body, 
 
 add it to some thick melted butter; pull the 
 flesh into small bits, and mix all together 
 with some rich beef gravy ; boil it up, and 
 before serving add a little salt, and squeeze 
 in a little lemon-juice. 
 
 LOBSTER. (2) Pound very 
 
 finely the spawn of a lobster, rub it through 
 
 a sieve, mix it with a quarter of a pound 
 of melted butter, then add the meat of the 
 lobster cut into small bits. Make it quite 
 hot, but do not allow it to boil. 
 
 LOBSTER. See Lobster. 
 
 FOR LOBSTER. Bruise the 
 
 yolks of two hard-boiled eggs with the back 
 of a wooden spoon, or rather pound them in 
 a mortal, with a tea-spoonful of water, and 
 the soft inside and the spawn of the lobster ; 
 rub them quite smooth, with a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard, two table-spoonfuls of 
 salad oil, and five of vinegar; season it with 
 a very little cayenne pepper, and some salt. 
 
 LOVE-APPLE, ACCORDING 
 
 TO UDE. Melt in a stewpan a dozen or 
 two of love-apples (which, before putting in 
 the stewpan, cut in two, and squeeze the 
 juice and the seeds out); then put two es- 
 chalots, one onion, with a few bits of ham, 
 a clove, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a few 
 leaves of mace, and when melted, rub them 
 through a tamis. Mix a few spoonfuls of 
 good Espagnole or Spanish sauce, and a 
 little salt and pepper, with this puree. Boil 
 it for twenty minutes, and serve up. 
 
 MINT. (1) Pick and wash 
 
 some green mint ; add, when minced, a 
 table-spoonful of the young leaves, to four 
 of vinegar, and put it into a sauce-tureen, 
 with a tea-spoonful of brown sugar. 
 
 MINT. (2) Wash half a hand- 
 ful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint 
 (to this some add one-third tlie quantity of 
 parsley); pick the leaves from the stalks, 
 mince them very fine, and put them into a 
 sauce-boat, with a lea-spoonful of moist su- 
 gar, and four table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 
 
 MOCK CAPER. Cut some 
 
 pickled green pease, French beans, gherkins, 
 or nasturtiums, into bits the size of capers; 
 put them into half a pint of melted butter, 
 with two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, or 
 nice vinegar. 
 
 MOCK OYSTER. Put into a 
 
 saucepan two or three chopped and 
 quarter of a pint of water, a little mace, and 
 one or two cloves; let them simmer till the 
 anchovies be quite dissolved. Strain it, and 
 when cool, add a tea-cupful of cream ; thick- 
 en it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 and heat it up. It may be poured over 
 boiled fowls or veal. 
 
 MOCK TOM ATA. Tlie only 
 
 difference between this and genuine love- 
 apple sauce, a the substituting the pulp of
 
 SAUCES 
 
 189 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 apple for that of tomata, coloring it with 
 tumeric, and communicating an acid flavor 
 to it by vinegar. 
 
 MUSHROOM. Pirk and peel 
 
 half a pint of mushrooms (the smaller the 
 better) ; wash them very clean, and put them 
 into a saucepan, with half a pirn of veal 
 gravy or milk, i little pepper and suit, and 
 an ounce of butter rul>l>ed with a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour; stir tlxin together, and set tin-in 
 over a gentle fire, to stew slowly till tender; 
 skim and strain it. 
 
 O6. It will be a great improvement to 
 t!ii-, and the two following sauces, to add to 
 them the juice of half a dozen mushrooms, 
 prepared the day Ivtore, by sprinkling them 
 with salt, the ,-ame a- uh. n you make ketch- 
 up; or add a large spoonful of good double 
 mushroom ketchup. 
 
 See Quintessence of Mushrooms. 
 
 MUSHROOM, FOR BOILED 
 
 TIRKKY OR FOWL. Pick clean and 
 wash a pint of small mushrooms, rub them 
 with tlaimel, put them into a saucepan with a 
 blade of mace, a little salt, grated nutmeg, 
 a PI. of butter rolled in flour, and a pint 
 of en-am, keep Stirling tliem till they boil, 
 then pour them round the turkey, fowl, or 
 chicken. 
 
 W I HTE OMON. The follow- 
 ing in a more mild and delicate preparation: 
 
 take hall" a down "I" tlie largest and whitest 
 onionsi (the Swinish are the mildest, but 
 i only IK- had from August to De- 
 Oember) ; [x-el them and cut them in half, 
 ml lay them in a pan of .spring water for a 
 quarter of an hour, and then Imil for a quar- 
 ter of an hour ; and then, if you wish them 
 to taste very mild, pour off that water, and 
 cover them \\ith froh lulling water, and let 
 Uiem lioil i ill ilie\ are tender, which will 
 sometimes take three-quarters of an hour 
 longer. 
 
 O.MON. Boil twelve or more 
 
 union* in water; when it boils, pour it off, 
 add more liot water, and when die onions 
 T, strain anil mash them in a bowl, 
 add a piece of butter, a little salt, and one 
 or two spoonfuls of cream. Heat it before 
 s-erviiiif. An apple may lie boiled with the 
 unions. 
 
 ONION, OR ONION GRAVY. 
 
 Peel and slice the onions .(some put in an 
 e<|iial quantity of curmnlx-r or celery) into a 
 quart .-tew pan, with an ounce of butler; -ei 
 it on a i-|.. u tiie, anil turn the onion alxmt 
 till it is very lightly browned; ix>\\ s;racliially 
 stir in half an ounee of tlonr ; add a little 
 broth, and a little |X-|)|KT and sail; boil up 
 
 for a few minutes; add a table-spoonful of 
 claret, or Port wine, and same of mush- 
 room ketchup, (you may sharpen it wkh a 
 little lemon-juice or vinegar), and rub it 
 through a tamis or fine sieve. Curry powder 
 will convert this into excellent curry sauce. 
 
 N. B. If this sauce is for steaks, shred 
 an ounce of onions, fry them a nice brown, 
 and put them to the sauce you have rubbed 
 through a tamis; or some very small, round, 
 young silver button onions, peeled and boil- 
 ed tender, and put in whole when your sauce 
 is done, will be an acceptable addition. 
 
 Obs. If you have no broth, put in half a 
 pint of water, and just before you give it the 
 last boil up, add to it another table-spoonful 
 of mushroom ketchup, or the same quantity 
 of Port wine or good ale. The flavor of 
 this sauce may be varied by adding tarragon 
 or burnet vinegar. 
 
 OMON. See Onion. 
 
 ORANGE GRAVY, FOR WILD 
 
 DOCKS, WOODCOCKS, SNIPES, WIDG- 
 EON, TEAL, &c. Set on a saucepan with 
 half a pint of veal gravy ; add to it half a 
 dozen leaves of basil, a small onion, and a 
 roll of orange or lemon peel, and let it boil 
 up for a few minutes, and strain it off. Put 
 to the clear gravy the juice of a Seville or- 
 ange, or lemon, half a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 the same of pepper, and a glass of red wine ; 
 send it up hot. Eschalot and cayenne may 
 be added. This is an excellent sauce for 
 all kinds of wild water-fowl, 
 
 (iiavies should always be sent up in a 
 covered boat: they keep hot longer; and it 
 leaves it to the choice of the company to 
 partake of them or not. 
 
 OYSTER. See Oyster*. 
 
 PIQUANT. Put a little chop- 
 ped shallot and a few spoonfuls of gravy in- 
 to a saucepan ; let it boil till the gravy be 
 nearly I mi led away, but not burned to the 
 bottom of tin- saucepan ; add as much 
 brai.-e as may be required for the sauce, 
 season with pepper and salt, boil it a few 
 minutes, then add a little lemon-juice, sugar, 
 and a tea-spoonful of garlic vinegar. 
 
 N. B. Braise is an onion stuck wi'h 
 cloves, and boiled till tender in gravy and 
 white wine. 
 
 PIQUANT, for cold Meat, 
 
 Game, Poultry, Fish, fye. or Salad*. 
 Pound in a mortar the yolks of two eggs 
 that have been boiled hard with a mu.-lard- 
 spoonful of made mustard, and a little pep- 
 per and salt : add two table-spoonfuls of sal- 
 ad oil ; mix uell, and then add three lable- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar ; rub it up well till it i*
 
 SAUCES 
 
 190 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 quite smooth, and pass it through a tamis or 
 sieve. 
 
 Obs. To the above, some add an an- 
 chovy, or a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, or walnut pickle, some finely-chop- 
 ped parsley, grated horseradish, or young 
 onions minced, or burnet, horseradish or 
 tarragon, or elder vinegar, &c., and cay- 
 enne or minced pickles, capers, &c. This 
 is a piquante relish for lobsters, crabs, cold 
 lush, &c. 
 
 SALAD OR PIQUANT, FOR 
 
 COLD MEAT, FISH, &c. Pound together 
 an ounce of scraped horseradish, half an 
 ounce of salt, a table-spoonful of made mus- 
 tard, four drachms of minced eschalots, 
 half a draclun of celery seed, and half ditto 
 of cayenne, adding gradually a pint of bur- 
 net, or tarragon vinegar, and let it stand in 
 a jar a week, and then pass it through a 
 sieve. 
 
 POIVRADE, FOR COLD 
 
 MEAT. (1) Chop finely six shallots and a 
 handful of picked and washed parsley ; mix 
 with it a little vinegar, mustard, cayenne 
 some cold gravy, and salt. 
 
 POIVRADE, FOR COLD 
 
 MEAT. (2) Bruise the yolk of a hard- 
 boiled egg with a little salt and mustard, 
 oil, soy, chopped parsley, and chives, and 
 pour it over slices of any cold meat. 
 
 PUDDING. Mix with half a 
 
 pint of melted butter two wine-glasses of 
 sherry, and a table-spoonful of pounded 
 loaf sugar; make it quite hot, and serve in 
 a sauce-tureen, with grated nutmeg on the 
 top. 
 
 QUIN'S. (1) Half a pint of 
 
 mushroom pickle, the same of walnut pickle, 
 three whole and three pounded cloves of 
 garlic, six anchovies bruised, and a tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne. Mix all together in a 
 large bottle, shake it daily lor three weeks, 
 then strain, and bottle it for use. 
 
 QUIN'S. (2) One pint of 
 
 Port wine, one of mushroom ketchup, one 
 of walnut liquor, one of essence of ancho- 
 vies, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne; mix 
 all together, and boil it for a quarter of an 
 hour. If essence of anchovies, i.s not to be 
 had, boil half a pound of anchovies in a 
 quart of water till reduced to a pint. Strain, 
 and use it. 
 
 REVEREND. Chop up some 
 
 lemon-peel, and two or three piokled cu- 
 cumbers; put them into a stewpan with 
 two spoonfuls of cullis, a little butter rolled 
 
 in flour, season with salt and pepper, put 
 it on the fire, and make it quite hot without 
 boiling, stirring all the time, make a liaison 
 with yolks of eggs, and serve. 
 
 RICE. Steep a quarter of a 
 
 pound of rice in a pint of milk, with uiion, 
 pepper, &c. as in the last receipt; when 
 the rice is quite tender (take out the spice), 
 rub it through a sieve into a clean stcwpan: 
 if too thick, put a little milk or cream to it. 
 
 Obs. This is a very delicate white 
 sauce; and at elegant tables is frequently 
 served instead of bread sauce. 
 
 FOR ROAST BEEF. (1) Mix 
 
 well together a large table-spoonful of 
 finely-grated horseradish, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of made mustard, and half a one of 
 brown sugar, then add vinegar till it I e as 
 dn'ck as made mustard. Serve in a sauce- 
 tureen. 
 
 FOR ROAST BEEF. (2) Put 
 
 into a stone jar one gill of soy, two of vine- 
 gar, two of water, a good-sized stick of 
 horseradish, and two sliced onions. Cover 
 the jar closely, and set it into a pan of cold 
 water ; when it boils, let it simmer for two 
 or three hours. 
 
 ROBART, FOR BEEF STEAKS 
 
 OR MUTTON CHOPS. Put into a saucepan 
 a little gravy, two ounces of butter dredged 
 with flour, a small slice of raw ham, and 
 two or three minced onions ; when the on- 
 ions are browned, dust in a little more 
 flour, and add nearly a pint of gravy, a lit- 
 tle salt and pepper, a tea-spoonful of mus- 
 tard, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Boil 
 it for gome minutes, strain and serve it. 
 
 SALAD. (1) B'liise the yolk 
 
 of a hard-boiled egg with a small tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, then add a dessert-spoonful of 
 mustard, and stir in gradually a large table- 
 spoonful of olive oil, oiled butter, or cream, 
 then by degrees mix in two or three table- 
 tpoonUiU of vinegar; serve it in a sauce- 
 tureen, or mix it with the salad. Instead 
 of the hard eijij, sonic persons prefer the 
 fuuce made with the yolk raw. 
 ; 
 
 SALAD. (2) Rub smooth a 
 
 hard-boiled egg, beat well a ra\* egg, and 
 mix them together with a little water, a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, one of cayenne, one of 
 (jepper, and one of mustard, a table-spoon- 
 ful of vinegar, one of essence of anchovies, 
 and five of rich cream. 
 
 The artist, as he styled himself, who in- 
 vented this salad sauce drove in his carriage 
 to his employers, and charged them ten shiU 
 lings and sixpence for each visit !
 
 SAUCES 
 
 191 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 SAUCES. See alto Gravy, page 89. 
 
 SHALLOT. (1) Boil a few mine- 
 
 ed shallots in a little clear gravy .mil nearly 
 as much vinegar, add :i few pcp|* i 
 a little salt. Strain, and sent- it in a sauce- 
 tureen. 
 
 SHALLOT. (2) Take two spoon- 
 fills of the liquor tlie meat was U.iled in, tun 
 spoonfuls of \ inegar, two or three shallots rut 
 fine, and a liule.-alt; put these ingredients 
 into :i saucepan, with a hit of butter rolled 
 in flour; let it stow a little;, and serve it up 
 with your mutton or beef. 
 
 Sll\i;p, FOR VENISON. 
 
 Put into a silver, or \ery clean and vvell- 
 tinned saucepan, half a pint of the Ixjst 
 white wiiii- \ iurijar, and a quarter of a 
 pound of Inaf-sunar |uinded: sel it over the 
 
 lire, and let it >in r genllv ; skim it care- 
 
 fiillv; |K>ur it through a tamis or fine sieve, 
 
 : it up in a Uisin. 
 
 Obs. Some people like this better than 
 the swi^t wine sauces. 
 
 S I IK I M I'. ( I ) Pick some shrimps 
 
 nicely from the shell, put them into melted 
 butter, add a taUe-s|>oonful of lemon pickle 
 and vim-gar; heat it. 
 
 SlIKIMP. (2) Shell a pint of 
 
 shrimps; pick them clean, wash them, and 
 put them into half a pint of good melted 
 Inittei-. A pint of imshelled shrimps is about 
 enough fir four IXMS..M-. 
 
 Obs. Some MI-VV the heads and shells 
 of tlv shrimp, (with or without a Made 
 of bruise-i m;;ee), for a quarter of an hour, 
 :.i oil' the liquor to melt the butter 
 with, and add a little lemon-juice, cayenne, 
 and essence of anchovy, or soy, cavire, 
 &c. ; but the flavor of the shrimp is so deli- 
 cate, that it will Ixj overcome by any such 
 additions. 
 
 If vour shrimps are not quite 
 fresh, they will eat tough and tliready, as 
 other stale lL-h do. 
 
 sorrel, well drain it from water, and then put 
 it into a stew pan, well covered with a bit of 
 butler, and let it stew very gently over a slow 
 tire; \\lien done, put it to drain on a sieve lor 
 tlirev minutes, then, with a wooden spoon, 
 rub it through a tammy into a dish; put it 
 into a stcwpan, with a bit of butter, stir- 
 ring it over the fire till thoroughly mixed; 
 yon may add, if you choose, three spoon- 
 fuls of good consomme, and uhen it has 
 lulled lor a lew minutes, add to it half as 
 much cream sauce as there is sorrel, and if 
 I necessary .-easnn with a little salt ; this is 
 pro|x>r (or a fricandeau of veal or entrees 
 offish. 
 
 SOKUKI,. (1) Pick and w.i>h 
 
 (Some sorrel, put it into a stewpau with a lit- 
 
 . Mir it, to prevent i 
 
 when it is tender, drain and miucc it finely; 
 lialf an hour in a M-'Hpan with a 
 hide h'lttir, then (Iri-d.'e in a lah!> 
 of llonr, inoistem it with Imiling ci . 
 
 Bre l > an hour; .nil a 
 little .-all. and if too acid, a little sugar. 
 
 . thirkeu with the U a 
 of four eggs. 
 
 SDKKF.I.. (2) Pick and thor- 
 oughly wash two double liandlnls of young 
 
 SUPERLATIVE. Claret, or 
 
 Port u ine, and mushroom ketchup, a pint of 
 each. Half a pint of walnut or other pickle 
 liquor. Pounded anchovies, four ounces. 
 Fresh lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce. 
 Peeled and sliced eschalots, the same. 
 Scraped horseradish, ditto. Allspice, and ' 
 black |iepper powdered, half an ounce each. 
 Cayenne, one drachm, or curry-powder, 
 three drachms. Celery-seed bruised, one 
 drachm. All avoirdupois weight. Put 
 these into a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it 
 clo-e, shake it up every day for a fortnight, 
 and strain it (when some think it improved 
 by the addition of a quarter of a pint of sov, 
 or thick browning), and you will have a 
 "delicious double relish." Dr. Kitchinrr 
 says, this coni|Hisition is one of the " chels 
 d'n-uvrc " of iiianv experiment! he has made, 
 lor tic- purpose of enabling the good house- 
 wives of Great Britain to prepare their own 
 :i is equally agreeable with fish, 
 iramr-, poultry, or ragouts, &c., and as a 
 lair lady may make it herself, its relish will 
 Ix; not a little augmented, by the certainty 
 that all the ingredients are good and whole- 
 
 Obs. Under an infinity of circumstances, 
 a cook may Ix- in want of" the substances ne- 
 cessary to make sauce: the above composi- 
 tion of tlie several articles from which tiic 
 jiavies derive their flavor, will br 
 found a vei-y admirable extemporaneous sub- 
 stitute. By mixing a large table-spoonful 
 with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted 
 . broth, five minutes will finish a 
 luat of very relishing .-ance, nearly equal to 
 drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lin- 
 gual nerves into good humor as any thing 1 
 know. 
 
 To make a boat of sauce for poultry, &c. 
 put a piece of butter about as big as an egg 
 into a stewpan, set It on the fire; when it 
 is in. -lied, jit to it a table-sixionful of flour; 
 stir it thoroughly together, and add to it 
 two table-spoonfufs of sauce, and by degrees 
 almut half a pint of broth, or boiling water, 
 let it simmer gently over a slow fire for a
 
 SAUCES 
 
 192 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 few minutes, skim it and strain it through a 
 sieve, and it is ready. 
 
 FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, OR 
 
 CUTLETS. Take your chops out of the 
 frying-pan; for a pound of meat keep a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of the fat in the pan, or put in 
 about an ounce of butter; put to it as much 
 limn as will make it a paste; rub it well 
 together over the fire till they are a little 
 brown ; then add as much boiling water as 
 will reduce it to the thickness of good cream, 
 and a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut 
 ketchup, or pickle, or browning; let it boil 
 together a few minutes, and pour it through 
 a sieve to the steaks, &c. 
 
 Obs. To the above is sometimes added 
 a sliced onion, or a minced eschalot, with 
 a table-s|x>onful of Port wine, or a little 
 eschalot wine. Garnish with finely-scraped 
 horseradish, or pickled walnuts, gherkins, 
 &c. Some beef-eaters like chopped escha- 
 lots in one saucer, and horseradish grated 
 in vinegar, in another. Broiled mushrooms 
 are favorite relishes to beef steaks. 
 
 SWEET, FOR VENISON OR 
 
 HARE. Put some currant jelly into a 
 stewpan ; when it is melted, pour it into a 
 sauce-boat. 
 
 N. B. Many send it to table without 
 melting. 
 
 Tliis is a more salubrious relish than 
 either spice or salt, when the palate pro- 
 tests against animal food unless its flavor be 
 masked. Currant jelly is a good accom- 
 paniment to roasted or hashed meats. 
 
 SWEET. Put some cinnamon 
 
 into a saucepan, with as much water as 
 will cover it ; set it on the fire, and when it 
 has boiled up once or twice, add two 
 spoonfuls of powder sugar, a quarter of a pint 
 of white wine, and two bay -leaves; give 
 the whole one boil, and then strain it for 
 table. 
 
 TART ARE. Pound in a mor- 
 tar three hard yolks of eggs ; put them into 
 a basin, and add half a table-spoonful of 
 made mustard, and a little pepper and salt; 
 pour to it by degrees, stirring it fast all the 
 while, about two wine-glassfuls of salad oil; 
 stir it together till it comes to a good thick- 
 ness. 
 
 N. B. A little tarragon or chervil minc- 
 ed very fine, and a little vinegar, may be 
 added. 
 
 TOMATA. See Tomata. 
 
 TOURNEE. To a little white 
 
 thickening add some stock drawn from the 
 trimmings of veal, poultry, and ham; do 
 
 not make it too thick. Boil it slowly with 
 a few mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and 
 some green onions; strain and skim it well, 
 and use it as required. German sauce is 
 made as the saure tournee, adding the beat-- 
 en yolks of two or mure eggs, and is used 
 fi>r ragouts, fricassees, and any made dish 
 which may require a rich white sauce. 
 
 WHITE. Thicken half a pint 
 
 of cream with a little Hour and butter, four 
 shallots minced, a little mace and lemon- 
 peel; let it boil, and a little before serving, 
 add a spoonful of white wine, the well-beaten 
 yolk of an egg, the squeeze of a lemon, and 
 a tea-spoonful of anchovy liquor. This sauce 
 will answer for boiled fowls, or for a fricas- 
 see. 
 
 WHITE, FOR FOWLS OR 
 
 TURKEY. Put on, in a quart of water, 
 the necks of fowls, a piece of the scrag-end 
 of a neck of mutton, two blades of mace, 
 twelve peppercorns, one anchovy, a small 
 head of celery, a slice from oft" the end of a 
 lemon, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; cover it 
 closely, and let it boil till reduced to nearly 
 half a pint; strain, and put to it a quarter 
 of a pound of butter divided with flour; let 
 it boil for five minutes, and then add two 
 spoonfuls of pickled mushrooms. Mix with 
 a tea-cupful of cream, the well-beaten yolks 
 of two eggs, and some grated nutmeg; stir 
 this in gradually, ami shake the pan over 
 the fire till it is all quite hot, but do not al- 
 low it to boil. 
 
 WHITE ITALIAN. Peel 
 
 some mushrooms, and throw them into a 
 little water and lemon-juice, to keep them 
 white. Put into a stewjian two-thirds of 
 sauce tournee, ami one-third of good veal 
 stock, two lable-spoonfula of finely-chopped 
 mushrooms, and half a table-spoonful of 
 washed and chopped shallots; let it boil till 
 well flavored, ami then serve it. The 
 mushrooms should be as white as possible. 
 
 WHITE SHARP. Boil with 
 
 a little tarragon, or tarragon vinegar, if the 
 tarragon is not to be had, four table-spoon- 
 fuls of white wine vinegar, and about twen- 
 ty peppercorns ; reduce this to one-fourth, 
 and add it to six table-spoonfuls of sauce- 
 tournee, and two of good stock; boil and 
 strain it; put it again on the fire, and thick- 
 en it with the beaten yolks of two eggs, a 
 small bit of butter, a little salt and cayenne. 
 Just before serving, stir in a spoonful of 
 cream. 
 
 WHITE, FOR BOILED FOWLS. 
 
 Melt in a tea-cupful of milk a large table- 
 spoonful of butter kneaded in flour, beat up
 
 SAU 
 
 193 
 
 SAU 
 
 the yolk of an egg with a tea-spoonful of 
 Cream, stir il inlo the Uiltrr, and heat it 
 over the fire, stirring it roustautU : chop- 
 -ley improves this sauce. It also 
 may be made by melting tlie butler with 
 water, anil mixing milk with tin 
 
 S.U Ci:. \VIM-'.. roRVKMS<>\ OK 
 HARK. A quarter of a pint 1,1' claret or 
 Port wine, tin- same i|ii.iniity <if plain, un- 
 favored mint. -II mavy, and a table-*poonful 
 of cnrr.int jelly: let it just Ixiil up, anil .-end 
 it to table in a sauce-In .at. 
 
 ,-\l cT., \VO\V \V(>\\ . FOR STKW KT> 
 
 OR BoUll.l.I 1)KI.K. ( .'llnp some parsley- 
 
 leaves very liiK': quMMr two on thrae pickled 
 
 curuiiiliers, or walnuts, and divide tlicm into 
 small .-J|iiares, and set them liv rraiy: put 
 into .1 saucepan a lilt of butter as ln\' as an 
 egij; when it is melted, stir in it a table- 
 spooiifnl of line llmir, and alunt halt" a pint 
 of the broth in which the 1 - 
 add .1 fable-spoonful nf vinegar, the like 
 ({uaiility of mushroom ketchup, or l'"i I wine, 
 or both, and a MMfWMfol of made mustard ; 
 let it simmer together (ill it is as thick as 
 you wish it; put in the parsley and pickles 
 to get warm, ami |*mr it ovr the Ix-ef; or 
 rather -end it up in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 O6. If you think the alio\e not sufii'-ient- 
 ly pit/uiiiitf, add to il some capers, or a 
 minced i-schalot, or one or two tea-?|xx>nl'nls 
 of eschalot wine, or e-sence of anchovy, or 
 basil, elder, or tarragon, or btnaradtsh, or 
 Ixirnet vinegar ; or.-tiew o\er tin- : 
 
 iirnips cut inlo dice, minced ra|>ers, 
 walnut.-. . pickled curuinbers, or 
 
 French IHMII- 
 
 SAI SM.r.S. fl) Art ,..:.,:,-. 
 rions kinds of ni"at, eh'.; 
 small, with ponndeil spices, and atom.iiic 
 herlis, shred line; then- ingredients are put 
 into skins, or guts (thoroughly washed), and 
 tied into lengtlis of from two to live infix*. 
 S line | i-..ns add to the inixtni 
 of Rhenish, Cliampjigix;, Madeini, or oiiier 
 wine. 
 
 S\rs.\(iKS, (2) Are Ix-st when fiiiito 
 
 ie. 1'ut a bit of butter, or dripping 
 
 into a clean Irvine-pan; as soon as it is 
 
 melti-il (licfure i; geu hot) put in the 8aU8a- 
 
 _-. and shake liie pan |..r a mi.. 
 
 keep turning them (! c.n. liil not to break 
 
 or prick tliein in so doiny) ; fry them OUT a 
 
 A lire till thes are nicely browned 
 
 s; when they are done, lay them 
 
 i sieve, placed before the tin- i i a 
 
 couple "I min Het to drain the fat from them. 
 
 Tlic ><( -ret of li \ in^' sausages is, to let them 
 
 get hot \ery gradually; they tlien will not 
 
 liur.-t. if tin \ aie n..t .-tale." The connnoii 
 
 17 
 
 practice to prevent their bursting, is to prick 
 them with a fork; Imt this !<(. the gravy 
 out. Yon may froth them by nilibing them 
 with cold fre.-h butter, and lightly 1 1 red go 
 them with Iliiiir, and jxit llirni in a cheese- 
 toa-ter or l>iiti'n m.-n |or a minute. Some 
 
 nuical rotiks insist that no butter 
 or lard, kc. i.- pe(|iiire<l, their own fat 
 
 icient to I'ry them: we have tried 
 it; the sausage* were partially scorched, 
 and had that piebald ap|K-aramv that all 
 fried things ha\e when sufficient fat is not 
 
 . 
 
 Obx. I'oac-hed eggs, pease pudding, and 
 mashed |>otatoes, are agreeable acroni|)ani- 
 nients t" "nl sausages areas wel- 
 
 come I toiled with roasted pinny or veal, or 
 boiled tripe; so are ready-dressed German 
 sausages; and a convenient, easily digestible, 
 and invigorating food for the aged, and those 
 who.-e leelh are defective. 
 
 N. II. Sausages, when finely chopped, 
 are :t delicate " bonne bouche;" and require 
 vei-y little ii-i-tanr,. fin m the teeth to render 
 them (|iiile n-ady for the stomach. 
 
 SM -\(JKS. (3) Take a pound of 
 
 the Kiuard fat of the piu, and half a pound 
 of lean [Kirk ; pick them Itoth from skin and 
 sinews, mi:iee them very tiuely, -jmtea large 
 nutmeg, take its weight of pounded mace 
 and cliAes, ih-- largest pro|x>rtion mace, tlie 
 weight of aU of pepper, MM twice the weight 
 of tlie spici s of >:ilt ; chop finely a ! 
 
 ! a little lemon thyme; mix all well 
 together with two lar^e talil.'-stxmiiflils of 
 ^r.iii-d bread and the yolk of an egg beaten. 
 It may I x: put into skin.-, or packed into a 
 jar and lied closely with bladder. When 
 lo !>e used, moisten it with the yolk of an 
 i"Z beaten, make it up in tile form of sauea- 
 i them, and fry tliem in butter. 
 
 S \l s \<iKS, BEEF AND OYSTER. 
 See Beef. 
 
 S \ i SAGES, TO MAKE. Chop to- 
 gether two pounds of lean pork, and one 
 and a half of the inward fat of the pig, the 
 crumb of a penny loaf cut into sli( " and 
 soaked in cold water; season wilh pepper, 
 salt, grated nutmeg, lemon thyme, and a 
 little sage. Mix all tlie iiignslieni- well, 
 and half fill tlie skins; boil them half an 
 hour. 
 
 SAUSAGES, BOLOGNA. Take the 
 legs and shoulders of a pig, from which cut 
 all the lean, wrape it well, remove all thp 
 id nib the meat well with a sea- 
 soning made' of salt, pep|ter. coriander, 
 cloTes, cinnamon, nutmeg, and bay-leaf. 
 When properly flavored, tal- 
 Lird, and leaf, and cut the whole into dire;
 
 S A V 
 
 194 
 
 SCO 
 
 mix the fat and lean together, and put it in- 
 to ox-guts, tie up the ends, and lay the 
 sausages in a pan of water, with salt, and 
 saltpetre ; cover the pan close, and leave it. 
 In a week's time take out the sausages 
 and drain them. Tie them between two 
 pieces of wood, hang them up to dry, and 
 smoke. When dry, untie them, and rub 
 each over with oil, and the ashes of vine- 
 twigs, mixed together. Keep them in a 
 dry place. 
 
 SAUSAGES, ROYAL. Mince small 
 the meat of a partridge, a capon, or pullet, 
 a piece of gammon, and other bacon, and 
 a bit of leg of veal ; shred also some parsley, 
 chives, truffles, and mushrooms; mix these 
 all together, and season with pepper, salt, 
 beaten spice, and garlic; bind the whole 
 with the yolks of six, the whites of two eggs, 
 and a little cream ; when thoroughly mixed, j 
 roll the preparation into thick pieces, which 
 wrap in very thin slices of fillet of veal, well 
 beaten with a rolling-pin; each sausage 
 should be about the thickness of a man's 
 wrist, and of proportionate length. Line an 
 oval stewpan with slices of bacon and thin 
 beef steaks, put in the sausages, cover them 
 with beefsteaks and bacon, shut the stew- 
 pan very close, and set it on a moderate 
 fire, put hot embers on the lid, and let it 
 stand ten or twelve hours ; then take it off, 
 and when cold, take out tlie sausages care- 
 fully, remove the veal, and all the fat, with 
 a sharp knife cut them into slices, and serve 
 cold. 
 
 SAUSAGES, SPREADBURY'S. Cut 
 from the leg or griskin one pound of nice 
 lean pork, free from sinews and skin, mince 
 it very finely : mince one pound of the best 
 beef suet, mix it with the pork, and pound 
 it as finely as possible in a marble mortar; 
 add two large table-spoonfuls of stale bread 
 rnbted through a sieve, also a good deal of 
 pepper, salt, and a little finely-chopped sage, 
 mix all together with the yolks of two eg^s 
 beaten up. It will keep for sometime, if 
 put into an earthen jar and pressed closely 
 down. When it is to be used, make it into 
 rolls, and as thick as common sausages, and 
 three or four inches long: dust them with a 
 little flour; have ready a frying-pan made 
 very hot, and fry them without any thing 
 but their own fat, till they are done quite 
 through, taking care not to make them too 
 dry. By breaking one of them, the cook 
 will know whether they are sufiiciently 
 done. They may be fried in lard or fresh 
 Iwef dripping. 
 
 SAVORY. CABBAGE. See Cabbage. 
 SAVOY BISCUITS, To be made as 
 
 drop biscuits, omitting the caraways, and 
 quarter of a pound of flour : put it into the 
 biscuit-funnel, and lay it out about the length 
 and size of your finger, on common shop 
 paper; strew sugar over, and bake them in 
 a hot oven; when cold, wet the backs of the 
 paper with a paste-brush and water: when 
 they have lain sometime, take them carefully 
 oflf, and place them kick to back. 
 
 SAVOYS, Are boiled in the same man- 
 ner as cabbages; quarter them when you 
 send them to table. 
 
 SCOTCH BARLEY BROTH ; -a good 
 and substantial dinner for sixpence per 
 head. W;isli three-quarters of a pound of 
 Scotch barley in a little cold water; put it 
 in a soup-pot with a shin or teg of beef, of 
 about ten pounds weight, sawed into four 
 pieces (tell the butcher to do this (or you) ; 
 cover it well with cold water; set it on the 
 fire: when it boils skim it very clean, and 
 put in two onions of about three ounces 
 weight each ; set it by the side of the fire to 
 simmer very gently about two hours ; then 
 skim all the fat clean ofl", and put in two lieads 
 of celery, and a large turnip cut into small 
 squares; season it with salt, and let it boil 
 an hour and a half longer, and it is ready: 
 take out the meat (carefully with a slice, 
 and cover it up, and set it by the fire to keep 
 warm), and skim the broth well before you 
 put it in the tureen. 
 
 SCOTCH BROSE. This favorite Scotch 
 dish is generally made with the liquor meat 
 has been boiled in. Put half a pint of oat- 
 meal into a porringer with a little salt, if 
 there be not enough in the broth, of which 
 add as much as will mix it to the consistence 
 of hasty pudding, or a little thicker; lastly, 
 take a little of the fat that swims on tlie 
 broth, and put it on the crowdie, and eat it 
 in the same way as hasty-pudding. 
 
 Obs. This Scotsman's dish is easilv pre- 
 pared at very little expense, and is pleasant- 
 tasted and nutritious. 
 
 N. B. For various methods of making 
 and flavoring oatmeal gruel, see Gruel. 
 
 SCOTCH BURGOO. This humble dish 
 forms no contemptible article of food. It 
 - the grand qualities of salubrity, 
 pleasantness, and cheapness. It is, in fact, 
 a sort of oatmeal hasty pudding without 
 milk ; much used by those patterns of com- 
 bined industry, frugality, and temperance, 
 the Scottish peasantry; and diis, among 
 other examples of the economical Scotch, is 
 well worthy of being occasionally adopted 
 1>\ all who have large families and small in- 
 comes. It is made in the following easy and 
 expeditious manner : To a quart of oatmeal
 
 SCO 
 
 195 
 
 SHE 
 
 add gradually two quarts of water, so that 
 the whole may smoothly mix : then stirring 
 it continually over the fire, boil it together for 
 n quarter of an hour ; alter which, tike it up, 
 and stir in a little salt and butter, with or 
 without pep|X.-r. This quantity will serve a 
 family of five or six persons for a moderate 
 meal. 
 
 SCOTS COLLOPS. Cut some very 
 thin slices of beef; rub with butter die bot- 
 tom of an iron stewpan that h,i- a cover to 
 fit quite closely; put in tlie meat, some pep- 
 per, and a little silt, a large onion, and an 
 apple minced very small. Cover the stew- 
 )an, and let it .-immer till the meat is very 
 tender. Serve it hot. 
 
 SCOTCH DIMPLING. Make a paste 
 
 with some iiatmcal and butter, form it into 
 a dimpling, anil place a haddock's liver 
 in tlie middle, well seasoned with pepper 
 and salt; it should be boiled in a cloth. 
 
 SCOTCH HAGGIS. Make the ha-is- 
 
 bag peilectly clean; parlx>il the diaii^tit; 
 boil the liter very well, so as it will :.'i,iie; 
 dry the meal before tlie fire; mince the 
 draught and a pretty large piece of beef very 
 small; grate about half of tin- liver; mince 
 
 plenty of tin- MH-t and soim IOILS small; 
 
 mix all tile*; materials very well together, 
 with a handful or two of the dried meal; 
 spread them on die table, and season them 
 pro|x-ily with salt and mixed spi< 
 any of llie -rr.ip- wf !< f that are left from 
 mincing i the water that Ixiiled 
 
 jit, and make alxiut a choppin (i.e. 
 a quart) of gtid stock of it ; then put all the 
 ; it into the li;iii, and that liroth in 
 it ; then sew up the Ui^' ; ''' 
 outall the uin<: A it quite close. 
 
 If you think the Ixig is thin, yon may put 
 it in a clolh. If it is a lari;e lia^'is, it will 
 tak<- at lea-it two hu 
 
 .V I'.. Tli. '[lied verbatim 
 
 , a celebrated C.ilrd.,- 
 
 111:111 pi'ilr-.-or of the; culinary art, who 
 taujlit, and published a Ixjok of cookery, at 
 Ediubui-h, A. 1). i: 
 
 - KALE. Put Inrley on in cold 
 
 water, anil when it l*>iU take oil' the .-mm, 
 ptit in aii) piece' of fn.-li IHI f, and a little 
 salt; let it boil three hom-. h.i\e ready a 
 cullender full of kale, cut .-mall and boil them 
 till tender. Two or tlnee leeks may be ad- 
 ded with die greens, if the tiavi.r i- appro\. d 
 of. Thi.- I/roth i.- al.-. in. id.- with salted 
 beef, which must be put in water over night 
 to soak. 
 
 SCOTCH SHORT BREAD. Take; 
 two pounds of Hour, dry, and sift it well; 
 
 then mix with it a pound of powder-sugar, 
 three ounces of candied citron and orange- 
 peel cut into dice, and half a pound of cara- 
 way comfits ; put half a |K>und of butter into a 
 saucepan, set it on the fire, and when quite 
 melted, mix it with the (lour, &c. ; i 
 Ix'iug nicely made, roll it out to the thickness 
 of half an inch, cut it into cakes, lay them 
 on white paper, prick and bake them ; they 
 should be of a pale color. 
 
 SEA CALE, BOILED. Let it liesome- 
 time in cold water, dien clean and trim it 
 nicely, cutting off any part that may be at 
 all green, and parting it as little as possi- 
 ble. Put it on in boiling water, with a lit- 
 ii.- -.di. Let it boil half an hour ; drain off 
 tlie water. Pare die crust off a slice of 
 t. >asted bread, lay it in tlie dish, pour over 
 it a little melted butter, and serve the cule 
 upon it. 
 
 SEED CAKE. Sift two and a half 
 pounds of Hour, with half a pound of good 
 white or loaf sugar, pounded into a pan or 
 
 Ixiwl ; make a ca\ ity in the centre, and [xiur 
 in half a pint of lukewarm milk, and a ta- 
 ble-poonful of thick yeast; mix, tlie milk 
 with enough (lour to make it as 
 thick as cream (this is called setting a 
 swinge); set it by in a warm place for one 
 hour; in the meantime, melt to an oil half a 
 pound of fresh butter, and add it to die other 
 ingredients, with one ounce of caraway- 
 seeds, and enough of milk to make it of a 
 middling stillness ; line a hoop with paper, 
 well rubbed over with butter; put in the 
 
 -et it sometime to prove i.> 
 r liefore the lire, and kike it on a plate 
 alxnit an hour, in rather a hot oven; when 
 done, rub the top over with a pane-brush 
 dip|x-d in milk. 
 
 SHKKI-S KIDNDYS, BROILED. 
 
 \Va-h anil dry some uii-e kidneys, cut them 
 in half and with a small skewer kc-ep them 
 o|NMi in imitation of two shells, season diem 
 wiih salt and |>e|>|x-r, and dip (hem into a 
 little fresh melted butter. Broil tirst tlie aide 
 that is cut, and be careful not to let the gravy 
 drop in taking them off tlie gridiron. Serve 
 ihem in a hot di-h, with Inn K-chopped pars- 
 I' > mixed with melted butter, the juice of a 
 lemon, |x>pper and salt, puttini; a little upon 
 each kidney. This is an excellent break- 
 fast for a sportsman. 
 
 SHEEP'S LIVER. Cut it into slices; 
 wash it well, and dry it in a cloth; floor 
 and season it w ith ix-pper and salt, and fry 
 
 it in butler, with a good deal of minced 
 I u-l.-\ and an onion; adda sufficient quan- 
 tity of gravy or hot wulcr to make a sauce, 
 and let it *tew a few minutes. It may bo
 
 SHE 
 
 196 
 
 SHR 
 
 fried quite plain, and when cut into slices, 
 should be washed in milk and water. 
 
 SHEEP'S MINCE. Wash the heart 
 and lights very clean ; tail them alxiiit half 
 an hour; mince them finely ; mix a piece of 
 butter with Hour, brown it in a stewpan, and 
 add some of the liquor the heart and limits 
 were boiled in. Put in the mince with some 
 chopped onion ; season with salt and pepper, 
 cover it closely, and let it stew half an boor. 
 Before serving, add a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, BROILED. 
 
 Having parboiled the tongues in a little 
 stock, split each, give them a few turns in 
 some melted bacon, strewing over them salt, 
 pepper, shred parsley, and bread crumbs; 
 when well covered with the latter, lay diem 
 oil a gridiron, and broil Uiein slowly. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES PIE. Line a 
 dish with some good puff paste, and lay at 
 tile bottom of the dish some good forcemeat, 
 made of rousted poultry, suet, parsley chop- 
 |K-d, mushroom?, |>epper and salt, and a few 
 line spices; upon this place the tongues cut 
 in two, and upon them a good slice of ham, 
 a little butter, and a few slices of bacon; 
 put on the cover and bake it; when done, 
 take out the bacon and ham, skim off all the 
 fat, and pour on it what sauce you please. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES ROASTED. 
 Take half a dozen sheep's tongues, and hav- 
 ing properly prepared them, lard them with 
 small lardons, tie them to a skewer, wrap 
 a buttered paper round, and fasten them on 
 a spit, and roast them before a moderate 
 fire; a little before they are done, take off 
 die paper, baste the tongues with butter, 
 and make them of a nice color. Serve with 
 whatever sauce you may prefer. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS STUFFED. 
 Boil the feet in good stock till die bones 
 will come out with ease ; fill tlie space left 
 by them with a good fowl or chicken farce; 
 dip them in lard, bread them well, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. The space left by die 
 bones is sometimes filled up with a bit of 
 fried bread ; in this case die feet are only 
 previously boiled, and then served with 
 cream sauce. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS FRIED. Clean 
 some sheep's trotters nicely, scald and wash 
 them in hot water; stew them in that sauce 
 in which CALF'S HEAD PLAI.N is boiled, 
 and bone them. Fry, but not till brown, 
 iu a little butter, some carrots, onions, a 
 Hide parsley roots, all cut small, thyme, a 
 shallot, a small bay leaf, and a clove. When 
 
 they begin to color, moisten them with wa- 
 ter ;md viwgar mixed in equal parts, and let 
 it all stew till the vegetables are quite ten- 
 -"ii with pepper and salt, and strain 
 it through a silk sieve over the sheep's trot- 
 t MS, then fry the- trotters in this batter; put 
 nearly four table-spoonful:; of flour into aft 
 earthen pan, with a little salt, a little olive 
 oil, and as much good brer or water as will 
 moisten the paste ; when well mixed, add 
 (he beaten whites of two eggs, dip the trot- 
 ters into this, and fry them instantly. The 
 marinade cuite, or pickle, into which the 
 trotters are laid, and the paste in which they 
 are fried, may be used for beef, and other 
 meats. The same receipt may be followed 
 exactly for calf's feet. 
 
 SHERBET. Tliis is a delicious bever- 
 age, composed of cream, mixed with various 
 articles, such as almonds, tea, pistachios, 
 coffee, chocolate, &c., and snsrar, and then 
 iced. Sherbet may also be made with the 
 juice of various fruits, sweetened to the 
 taste. When the liquid is sufficiently lim- 
 pid and cold, pour it into a silver, or tin 
 sorbetiere, and ice it as usual. 
 
 SHERBET, TURKISH. Wash a small 
 fore quarter of veal, put it on the fire with 
 nine pints of water; skim it well, and let it 
 boil till reduced to two pints ; nin it through 
 UK! when cold, add to it a pint and 
 a half of clear lemon-juice, and two pounds 
 <'f loaf MI gar which has been made into a 
 sirup widi a pint and a half of water, and 
 cleared with the white of an egg. It is 
 served in glass mugs for a dessert table, or 
 offered at any oUier time as a refreshment. 
 
 SHRUB. (1) One measure of lemon- 
 : juice is allowed to five of mm, and to every 
 gallon of the mixture, six pounds of loaf su- 
 gar, which is to l>e melted in water, and the 
 whole strained through flannel. 
 
 SHRUB. (2) To one part of lemon- 
 juice, three of good orange are allowed, 
 and, to every pint of juice, a pound and a 
 half of very finely-pounded loaf sugar ; these 
 being well mixed, it is put into a cask, and 
 one quart of the best rum added to each pint 
 of the juice; the whole to be shaken three 
 times a-day for a fortnight, or longer, if the 
 cask IK: large. It is then allowed to stand 
 
 1 to fine for a month, or till it be sufficiently 
 clear to Ixittle. The dregs may be made 
 into excellent milk punch, by pouring warm, 
 but not boiling, milk on them, allowing diree 
 
 ', parts of milk to one of dregs; after being 
 well mixed, it is fit for use. 
 
 SHRI'B. (3) Put a quart of Seville 
 orange-juice to a gallon of rum, with three
 
 SIR 
 
 197 
 
 SKA 
 
 pounds of lump sugar, and a handful of the 
 peel pored extremely thin ; let it stand in the 
 cask for three months, then filter it through 
 a cloth, and bottle it. 
 
 SHRUB. (4) Take a quart of orange- 
 juice, strain it, put to it two pounds of lump 
 sugar, four quarts and one pint of nun ; put 
 half the peels of the oranges into the rum, 
 ami let it stand one night, then mix the rum 
 with the orange-juice and sugar, put it into 
 a vessel which ha- a spirit, shake it four or 
 live times daily till the sugar be all dissolved ; 
 when it is clear, whirl) may lie in about a 
 fortnight, Ijottle it off for use. If the or- 
 anges are very ripe, a pound and a half of 
 sugar is snlliciont. 
 
 SHRUB, LEMON OR ORANGE. The 
 
 rind of tlie lemons or oranges being grated 
 off, ilicy are to be squeezed, and two |x<unds 
 of finefy-pouoded loaf sugar is to be added 
 to every pint of the strained juice; when the 
 sugar is quite dissolved, two pints of rum 
 ;ne allowed to every pint of sirup; tlie whole 
 is to be well mixed in a cask, and allowed 
 to stand five or six weeks, and then drawn 
 off. 
 
 SHRUB, WHITE CURRANT. The 
 
 currants are to be bruised and put into a 
 Lag to drip; three-quarters of a pound of 
 loaf sugar is to be dissolved in two quarts 
 of juice, and a quart of rum being added, it 
 is to be bottled for use. 
 
 SUM IMIK CURRANTS, RASPBER- 
 R1K.S, OR MULBERRIES. Pick the fruit 
 from the stalks; squeeze the juice, and let it 
 Main! ten days or a fortnight, or till the fer- 
 inentali.il) ceax-s, which may lx- known liy 
 tile scum cracking; ran fully take off the 
 scum, and (Hiiir the juice gently into a fresh 
 vessel; let it stand twenty-four hours, and 
 again pour it off, to one pound of pounded 
 loaf sugar allow thirteen ounces of the juice, 
 (nit it into a preserving-pan, and when it lie- 
 gins to lx>il, strain it through a jelly-ling, 
 and Ixittlc it when cold. Burie pears boiled, 
 in a little of the sirup, are beautiful. 
 
 SIRUP OF ORANGE OR LEMON 
 
 IT.r.l.. Offresh outer rind of Seville orange 
 or lemon |>eel, three ounces, apothecaries' 
 weight; boiling water a pint and a half ; in- 
 fuse them for a night in a close vessel; then 
 strain the liquor: let it stand to settle; and 
 having [xmrcd it off clear from the sediment, 
 dissolve in it two pounds uf donhle-refined 
 k>af siii;:o , and make it into a sirup with a 
 gentle he.it. 
 
 Obs. In making this sirup, if the sugar 
 be dissolved in the infusion with as gentle a 
 heat as possible, to prevent tin; exhalation 
 17* 
 
 of the volatile parts of the peel, this sirup 
 will possess a great share of the fine flavor 
 of the orange or lemon peel. 
 
 SIRUP, CLARIFIED. Break into bits 
 two pounds (avoirdupois) of double-refined 
 lump sugar, and put it into a clean stcwpan 
 (that is well tinned), with a pint of cold 
 spring water; when the sugar is dissolved, 
 set it over a moderate fire: beat aljout half 
 the white of an egg, put it to the sugar be- 
 fore it gets warm, and stir it well together. 
 Watch it ; and when it boils take off the 
 scum ; keep it boiling till no scum rises, and 
 it is perfectly clear; then run it through a 
 clean napkin: put it into a close-stopped 
 bottle; it will keep for months, and is an 
 elegant article on the sideboard for sweet- 
 ening. 
 
 Oo*. Tle proportion of sugar ordered in 
 the alxive sirup is a quarter pound more than 
 that directed in the Pharmacopeia of the 
 London College of Physicians. The quanti- 
 ty of sugar must be as much as the liquor is 
 capable of keeping dissolved when cold, or 
 it will ferment, and quickly spoil: if kept in 
 a teni|xTaie degree of heat, the above pro- 
 portion of sugar may be considered the basis 
 of all sirups. 
 
 SKATE, FRIED. After you have 
 cleaned the fish, divide it into fillets; dry 
 them on a clean cloth ; Ix-at the yolk and 
 white of an egg thoroughly together, dip the 
 fish in this, and then in line bread-crumbs; 
 fry it in hot lard or drippings till it is of a 
 delicate brown color ; lay it on a hair sieve 
 to drain; garnish with crisp parsley, and 
 some like caper sauce, with an anchovy 
 in it. 
 
 SKATE, TO CRIMP. Skin the skate 
 on both sides, cut it an inch and a half 
 broad, and as long as tin- skate, roll up each 
 piece and tie it with a thread ; lay them for 
 three hours in salt and water, and a little 
 vinegar; boil them fifteen minutes in boiling 
 salt and water; Ix't'oie serving, cut off the 
 threads. Sauces: shrimp, butter and an- 
 chovy. When tlie skate are very small, they 
 are preferable broiled. 
 
 SKATE, LARGE, DRESSED LIKE 
 VEAL CPTLETS. Crimp, or cut the skate 
 in square pieces, roll them in beaten eggs, 
 and then in grated bread mixed with chop- 
 ped | tii .-lev . pepper, and salt ; fry tlmn of a 
 nice brown color, and serve with a rich 
 brown grav\ . 
 
 SKATE, STEWED. Skin tlie skate, 
 art it into square pit-res, ami l>rown it with 
 l.iitter in a living-pan; make a rich sauce 
 with tlie skin and parings, to be boiled in.
 
 SNI 
 
 198 
 
 SOL 
 
 three pints of water, with an oninn, some 
 pepper and salt; strain and thicken it with 
 a little butter mixed with flour, add some 
 very finely chopped parsley, and chives ; of 
 hot vinegar, mushroom ketchup, and Harvey 
 sauce, a table-spoonful each, and a little 
 cayenne ; boil it up and put it in the skate 
 five minutes before serving it. 
 
 SKATE, Is very good when in good 
 eeason, but no fish so bad when it is other- 
 wise: those persons that like it firm and dry, 
 should have it crimped ; but those that like 
 it tender, should have it plain, and eat it 
 not earlier than the second day, and if cold 
 weather, three or four days old it is better: 
 it cannot be kept too long, if perfectly sweet. 
 Young skate eats very tine crimped and 
 fried. 
 
 SKATE, SMALL, TO FRY. Clean, 
 wash, and lay them one or two hours in vin- 
 egar, or vinegar and water, with a sliced 
 onion, some chopped parsley, pepper, and 
 salt; drain and dry them well, dip them into 
 beaten eggs, dredge them with flour, and fry 
 them of a fine brown color; garnish them 
 with fried parsley. Sauces ; melted butter, 
 and shrimp sauce. 
 
 SKIRRETS. Wash and scrape them, 
 put them on in boiling water, and boil them 
 for ten minutes; dry them in a cullender, 
 and fry them brown in a little butter. They 
 are sometimes plain boiled, and a little mel- 
 ted butter poured over them. 
 
 SMELTS, TO FRY. This delicate lit- 
 tle fish, when perfectly fresh, must not be 
 washed, but wiped with a clean cloth, and 
 dredged with flour, or brushed over with a 
 feather, dipped into the yolk of an egg beat- 
 en, and rolled in a plate of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, and fried in boiling dripping, 
 or fresh lard. They vary in size, and some 
 will be done sooner than others. When of 
 a clear yellow brown, take them out careful- 
 ly, ;ind lay them before the fire upon the back 
 of a sieve to drain and keep hot. Dish 
 them, heads and tails alternately; garnish 
 with fried parsley. Sauce melted butter. 
 They may also te broiled. 
 
 SMELTS, ITALIAN. Boil your smelts 
 with a large glass of white wine, half a glass 
 of water, two spoonfuls of oil, two slices of 
 lemon, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of fennel. 
 When sufficiently done, make a liaison with 
 yolks of eggs, and shred chervil, and serve 
 your fish with its own sauce. 
 
 SNIPES. When the snipes have been 
 picked, they must be singed over a charcoal 
 fire; in tracing tliem press the legs close to 
 
 the side, and pierce the beak through them ; 
 tie a slice of baron over each bird, run a long 
 iron skewer through the sides, apd tie them 
 to the spit; in the meantime cut two or three 
 slices of bread, according to the number of 
 the birds, fry them of a tine brown color in 
 butter; put the birds to must, and put the 
 fried bread in a dish under them, to receive 
 the inside, which will drop after they have 
 hung a few minutes; just before they are 
 roasted sufficiently, cut off the bacon, that 
 they may take color. Serve them on the 
 dish with the bread under them, and plenty 
 of good gravy. Some prefer eating them 
 with butter only, considering that gravy 
 takes off from the fine flavor of the bird. 
 They should be carved [lie same as fowls or 
 pigeons, and the head should be opened, as 
 some are fond of the brains. Snipes are 
 generally dressed in the same manner as 
 woodcocks. 
 
 SNOW-BALLS, BOILED IN BUT- 
 TER. Mix with six well-beaten eggs one 
 pint and a half of sour cream, and add by 
 decrees as much (lour as will make the bat- 
 ter thick enough for the spoon to stand in 
 it; sweeten it with brown sugar, and put 
 in a few cardamons; stir into this mixture 
 half a pint of beer, beat it all well to- 
 gether, and drop it with a dessert-spoon 
 into some boiling lard, or butter. Drain 
 them upon a towel before the fire, and serve 
 them in a napkin, with sugar sifted over 
 them. 
 
 SNOW CHEESE. Sweeten, with poun- 
 ded loaf sugar, a quart of good cream ; add 
 the strained juice of three lemons, and one 
 ounce and a half of blanched sweet 
 pounded, and two table-spoonfuls of rose- 
 water, and one of ratafia. Beat it with a 
 whisk till thick, and put it into a shape or 
 sieve with a bit of muslin laid into it, ami 
 in twelve hours take it out. 
 
 SODA WATER. Tartaric acid half 
 an ounce, arated soda, half an ounce. Have 
 two tumblers about one-third full of water, 
 put a tea-spoonful of the soda into one glass, 
 and the same of the acid into the other; 
 when dissolved, mix them together, and 
 drink it immediately. The two sorts of salts 
 must be kept in separate bottles, and should 
 be bought ready powdered. 
 
 SOLES OR OTHER FISH, TO FRY. 
 
 An hour before you intend to dress them, 
 wash them thoroughly, and wrap them in a 
 clean cloth, to make them perfectly dry, or 
 the bread-crumbs will not stick to them. 
 
 Prepare some bread-crumbs, by rubbing 
 some stale bread through a colander; or, 
 if )ou wish the fish to appear very delicate
 
 SOL 
 
 199 
 
 SOL 
 
 and highly finished, through a hair sieve; or 
 ose biscuit (xiwder. 
 
 Heat the yolk and white of an egg well 
 . on a pliitf, with a fork; flour your 
 li.-li. to absorb :iny moisture that may remain, 
 and wipe it otV with a clean cloth ; dip them 
 in tiic CLTU' "ii both sides all over, or, what 
 is IM-UIT, c.'ir tin in with a |>aste-lirnsh ; put 
 die egg o;i in an even degree over the whole 
 fish, or tlie I ii i ad crumbs will not stick 
 to it even, and tl>e uneven part will burn 
 to the pan. Strew the bread crumbs all 
 over tin- ti-h. so that they cover every part, 
 take up the fish by the head, and shake off 
 the loose crumb-. The fish u now ready 
 for the fry ing-pun, into which put a quart 
 or more of fre>h sweet olive oil, or clar- 
 ified butter, dripping, lard, or clarified drip- 
 pings; I*- sine that they are quite sweet 
 and perfectly clean (the fat ought to cover 
 the fish): what we lien: order is for soles 
 about ten inches long; if larger, cut them 
 into pieces the proper size to help at table ; 
 this will save much time and trouble to the 
 carver: when yon send them to table, lay 
 them in It:.- - i:;ie firm they were lief.ire they 
 were cut, ami you may strew a little curled 
 : over them: they are much easier 
 
 managed in the I'.-ying-pan, and require less 
 fill: fiy the thick part a few minutes before 
 you put in the thin, you can by this means 
 only fry the thick part enough, without fry- 
 ing till thin too much. Very large soles 
 lilionld Ix; Ixiiled, or fried in fillets. Soles 
 cut in piece?, crossways, about the size of a 
 cinch, make a \eiy pretty garnish for stewed 
 fish ami Ixiiled fish. 
 
 Set the fryins-jxin over a sharp and clear 
 fire; wati-h it, skim it with an egg-slice, and 
 wlietl it Ijoils, t. e. when it lias done bub- 
 bling, and the smoke just liegins to rise from 
 "e, put in the li.-h: if (lie fat is not 
 extremely hot, it la impossible to fry finh 
 of a g'xld color, or to keep them firm and 
 crisp. 
 
 The liest way to ascertain the heat of tlie 
 fat, is to i ry it with a bit of bread as big as 
 a nut; it" it i- quite hot enough, the bread 
 will brown immediately. Put in tlie fish, 
 and it will lie crisp and brown on the side 
 next tin- (iie. in about four or live minutes; 
 to turn it, suck a two-pronged fork near the 
 head, and snp|>ort the tail with a fish-slice, 
 and fry the other side nearly the same length 
 of time. Fry one sole ;ft a time, except the 
 |xm is very large, a ,,,| \,,n have plenty of fat. 
 
 \\ hen the tish are (Vied, lay ilwin on a wilt 
 cloth (old table-cloths are best), near enough 
 .the fire to keep them warm; turn tliem 
 every two or three minutes, till tliey are 
 quite dry on Imth sides; this common cooks 
 commonly neglect. It u ill take ten or fifteen 
 minutes, if the fat you fried tliem in was not 
 hot enough; when it is, they want veiv little 
 
 drying. When soles are fried, they will 
 keep very good in a dry place for three or 
 four days; warm tliem by hanging tliem on 
 the hooks in a Dutch oven, letting them heat 
 very gradually, by putting it some distance 
 from the fire for about twenty minutes, or in 
 good gravy, as eels, Wiggy's way. 
 
 Obt. There are several general rules in 
 this receipt which apply to all fried fish : 
 we have been rery particular and minute in 
 our directions; for, although a fried sole is 
 io frequent and favorite a dish, it is very 
 seldom brought to table in perfection. 
 
 SOLES, TO BOIL. A fine, fresh, thick 
 sole is almost as good eating as a turhot. 
 Wash and clean it nicely; put it into a fish- 
 kettle with a handful of salt, and as much 
 cold water as will cover it ; set it on tlie side 
 of the fire, take off tlie scum as it rises, and 
 let it boil gently; about five minutes (accord- 
 ing to its size) will be long enough, unless 
 it be very large. Send it up on a fish-drain- 
 er, garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs 
 of curled parsley, or nicely-fried smelts, or 
 
 oyj-ters. 
 
 " Obs. Slices of lemon are a universally 
 acceptable garnish with either fried orbroif- 
 ed fish: a few sprigs of crisp parsley may IK: 
 added, if yon wish to make it look very 
 smart ; and parsley, or fennel and butter, are 
 excellent sauces, or chervil sauce, or anchovy. 
 
 SOLES, TO DRESS MAIGRE. Put 
 the fish into a stewpan, with a large onion, 
 four cloves, fifteen berries of allspice, and the 
 same of black pepper ; just cover tliem with 
 boiling water, set it where they will simmer 
 gently for ten or twenty minutes, according 
 to i he si/.c of the tish; strain off the liqnor 
 in another :-tew|>an, leaving the fish to keep 
 warm till the sauce is ready. Rub together 
 on a plate as much flour and butter as will 
 make the sauce as thick as a double cream. 
 Each pint of sauce season with a .glass of 
 wine, half as much mushroom ketchup, a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a few 
 grains of cavenne; let it boil a few minutes, 
 put the fish on a deep dish, strain the gravy 
 over it; garnish it with sippets of bread 
 toasted or fried. 
 
 SOLE, CARP, TROUT, PERCH. EEL, 
 OR FLOUNDER, TO STEW. When the fiah 
 lias been pro|x-rly washed, lay it in a stew- 
 |ian, with half a "pint of claret or Port wine, 
 and a quart of good gravy, a large onion, a 
 down lierries of black |x-p|X-r, the same of 
 allspice, ami a few cloves, or a bit of mace: 
 cover the fish-kettle clone, and let it stew 
 gently for ten or twenty minutes, according 
 to tlie thickness of the fish: take the ti.-h up, 
 lay it on a hot dish, cover it up, and thicken 
 the li<pior it was .-tewed in with a little
 
 sou 
 
 200 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 fltmr, and season it with pepper, salt, essence 
 of anchovy, mushroom ketchup, and a little 
 Chili vinegar; when it has boiled ten min- 
 utes, strain it through a tamis, and pour it 
 over the fish: if there is more sauce than 
 i In 1 dish will hold, send the rest up in a boat. 
 The river trout comes into season in April, 
 and continues till July; it is a delicious fish. 
 
 SORREL, TO STEW. Strip the leaves 
 from the stalks, wash them well, scald them 
 in boiling water in a silver saucepan, or in 
 an earthern pipkin ; strain and stew them in 
 a little gravy till tender. Serve with hard- 
 boiled eggs cut in quarters. 
 
 , IN GRAVY. Mince, and 
 put it into a saucepan, with butter, bacon, 
 parsley, and scallions; add a glass of con- 
 somme; set it over a moderate fire, and 
 when quite soft, put to it some fowl gravy, or 
 veal blond. Blake the sauce thick, and do 
 not let it boil, cover the sorrel when served. 
 
 SORREL OMELET. Pick, wash, and 
 blanch some sorrel, cut it in pieces, and 
 fry it lightly in a little butter, with shred 
 parsley and scullions; then put the sorrel 
 into a saucepan, with a little cream; season, 
 and let it boil slowly; in the meantime make 
 an omelet in the u.-ual way, lay it tin a dish, 
 thicken the sorrel with the yolks of two egp, 
 pour it on the omelet, and serve it very hot. 
 
 SOUFFLEJ, APPLE. Prepare apples 
 as for baking in a pudding, put them into a 
 deep dish, and lav upon the top, about an 
 inch and a half thick, rice boiled in new 
 milk with sugar; beat to, a stift" froth the 
 whiles gf two or three eggs, with a little 
 sifted loaf sugar, lay it upon the rice, and 
 bake it in an oven a light brown. Serve it 
 instantly when done. 
 
 SOUfFLET, RICH. Soak in white 
 wine and a little brandy, sweetened with su- 
 gar, some slices of sponge cake ; put them 
 into a deep dish, and pour over them a rich 
 custard ; beat to a stiff froth the whites of 
 three or four eggs, and with a table-spoon 
 lay it over the top in heaps to look rough ; 
 brown it in a Dutch oven, and serve quickly. 
 
 SOUFFLET, RICE. Soak in half a 
 pint of milk, for an hour, one ounce of rice, 
 and the peel of a lemon cut thin; put it into 
 a saucepan, with a little salt, and add by 
 degrees a pint of new milk, and a bit of but- 
 ter the size of a walnut; stir it till it boil, 
 and for five minutes after. When cool, add 
 the yolks of six eggs, beaten with two table- 
 spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar, and stir in 
 the well-l>eaten whites of the eggs, and dress 
 the soufflet in the dish like a pyramid. 
 
 Bake it in an oven. It may 1 made with 
 two table-spoonfuls of potato flour, which 
 mix with a little milk, and a little salt, and 
 then thicken it over the fire with more milk ; 
 put a little orange-flower water, or any other 
 perfume; whilst in the oven it may l>e glazed 
 with sifted loaf sugar. 
 
 SOUFFLET, ORANGE. Mix with a 
 table-spoonful of flour a pint of cream, put 
 it into a saucepan, with two spoonfuls of 
 rose-water, a little cinnamon and orange- 
 peel; stir it till it boil ; strain and sweeten 
 it, and when cold, mix in two table-spoon- 
 fuls of orange marmalade; teat well six 
 eggs with a glass of brandy; mix all togeth- 
 er; put it in a buttered shape; place it in 
 a saucepan of boiling water, over a stove; 
 let it boil one hour and a quarter without a 
 cloth or cover over it. 
 
 SOUPS. Everv utensil employed in a 
 
 kitchen must be kept scrupulously clean, 
 and a cook ought to take especial care that 
 all her saucepans be in good order. Brass 
 pans are preferable for preserving in, and 
 double biock tin are the best sort in use for 
 every other ; .nrpose; their covers, should be 
 made to lit elosi-ly, and the tinning always 
 renewed as soon as it is observed to be 
 wearing oil'. While new, they may be 
 easily kept clean liv washing them regularly 
 in hot water, and rubbing on them when 
 quite dry, a little whiting with leather or 
 liamu'l. After lon<: use, they will require 
 occasional scouring with fine sand ; and be- 
 fore they arc used, they ought always to be 
 rinsed out with hot water, and wiped with 
 a clean cloth. A landlady will find it good 
 economy, and for her advantage in other 
 respects, to provide plenty of stone ware and 
 earthen vessels, and also common dishes for 
 the kitchen, that the table set may not be 
 used to keep cold meat on. 
 
 In boiling soup, less water is used in a 
 digester than in a common pot, as in a di- 
 gester no steam can escape. 
 
 To extract the strength from meat, long 
 and slow boiling is necessary, but c::ro must 
 be taken that the ]x>t is never off" the boil. 
 All soups are better for being made the (lay- 
 before they are to be used, and they should 
 then be strained into earthen pans. When 
 soup has jellied in the pan, it should not be 
 removed into another, as breaking it will 
 | occasion its becoming sour sooner titan it 
 would otherwise do; when in danger of not 
 keeping, it should be boiled up. It never 
 keeps long with many vegetables in it. The 
 nwat used for soups or broths cannot be too 
 fresh. When any animal food is plain 
 bofled, the liquor, with the addition of the 
 trimmings of meat and poultry, make good 
 soups and gravies, as do also die bones of
 
 SOUPS 
 
 201 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 Foswted or broiled meat. The gravies left 
 in tlie ii for hashes, and (lie 
 
 liquor in which veal IIMS lioen l*>iled, may 
 1.' made i'l'o ! lino; it with a 
 
 ham bone till rednce.1 to a third or fourth 
 part, and seasoning it with tlv necessary 
 herbs and spices. 
 
 In boiliiii; weak soups, the pan should l)e 
 tin- watery pani< ]<:> may 
 escape. < 'o\v-lu:<:l jelly impr.i'. . 
 sort of rich -onp; and for thickening, truf- 
 U, ana dried mushrooms, may be 
 used with advantage. 
 
 Directions arc given with each of the 
 
 following soups fur thickening with tlmir 
 
 and butter, cream and eggs ; after the cream 
 
 ilded, tlie soup most not be 
 
 to Ixiil. 
 
 Should liriiwii srravy or mock turtle soup 
 
 be qx)iliii2. fresh-made charcnal, roughly 
 
 poimded, tied in a lit; ,iied with 
 
 either, \\ill alt-orb the bad flavor and leave 
 
 i I may be 
 
 made by .-imply putting a bit of wixxl into 
 the fire, and pounding the burnt part in a, 
 mortar. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. This i.-- made 
 
 with tlie |x>ints nf as|*iragn-. in (lie same 
 manner a- the i.'i'een pease soup is with 
 : \ half tlie asparagus be rubbed 
 
 through a sieve, and tlie other nil in pieces 
 about an inch long, and boiled till dune 
 
 uid sent up in tin; soup: to make 
 
 two ijnarls. there must be a pint of heads 
 
 to thicken it, and half a pint cut in; take 
 
 \e these gre<ii and a little 
 
 'hues made bv 
 
 adding tlie as|>anigns heads to common pease 
 soup. 
 
 I!i:i:i', THICK. In eight quarts 
 
 of water Imil <>cmly for MACII hours, skim- 
 ming it well, a >hin, or a leg of Ixt-f, and a 
 Ixinch nf -UM t heili-; -train it the next dav, 
 take oil the fit, and cut all tlx- gristly and 
 sinev. . por- from the bones, add them to 
 the soup \\ith some leeks, onions, cilery, 
 pepper, .-alt. and tell or twelve ounce*) of 
 Scotch bailey pirlxiiled; l<oil it jjcntlj for 
 two or three hours. This stock or jelly wilfr 
 keep good lor weeks in cold weatlter. 
 
 BEEF OR MUTTON. Boil 
 
 very gently in a closely covered saucepan, 
 four quarts of water, with two table-spoon- 
 fills of sifted bread rasping, three pounds 
 of beef cut in small pieces, or die same 
 quantity ( mutton chops taken from the 
 middle of ihe neck; season with |-pper 
 and salt, add two tunii|>, t\\o carrots, two 
 onion-, and one head of celery, all cut small; 
 let it .-tew iih tln-ae ingredients four hours, 
 when it will be ready to sent . 
 
 BEET ROOT. Boil till tender 
 
 two roots of beet, and rub off tlie skin with 
 towel, mince them finely, as also 
 two or three, onions; add this to live pints 
 of rich gravy >"ii|), so as to make it rather 
 i!iii-k, then stir in three or four table-spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar and one of brown sugar ; let it 
 Ixiil, and throw in some fricandellaiis made 
 up in the form of corks, and rolled in flour. 
 
 AND BOUILLI. The best 
 
 parts for this purpose, are the leg or shin, 
 or a piece of the middle of a brisket of 
 '>out seven or eight pounds' weight; 
 lay it on a lish drainer, or when yon take it 
 up, put a slice under it, which will enable 
 you to place it on the dish entire ; put it in- 
 to a souppot or deep stewpan, with cold 
 water enough to cover it, and a quart over, 
 set it on a quick (ire to get the scum up, 
 which remove as it rises ; then put in two 
 carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or two 
 large onions, two heads of celery, two or 
 three cloves, and a faggot of parsley and 
 sweet herbs; set the pot by the side of the 
 lire to simmer very gently, till the meat ia 
 just tender enough to eat; this will require 
 atut lour or live hours. 
 
 Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion, 
 and a bead or two of celery, into tlie soup 
 whole, take them out as soon as they are 
 done enough, lay them on a dish till they are 
 cold, then cut them into small squares: 
 when the BKKF is done, take it out careful, 
 ly, strain tlie SOUP through a hair sieve 
 into a clean stewpan, take off the fat, and 
 put the vegetables that are cut into tlie 
 soup, tin: tlaMir of which joil may heighten, 
 by adding a table-spoonful of nm.-hiooni 
 ketchup. 
 
 If a Thickened Soup is preferred, take 
 lour large table-spoonfuls of the clear fat 
 from the top of the pot, and four spoonfuls 
 of flour; mix it smooth together, then by 
 degrees stir it well into tlie soup, Vkhich 
 simmer for ten minutes longer at least, 
 skim it well and pass it through a tamis, 
 or 6ne sieve, and add the vegetables and 
 seasoning the game as directed in tlie clear 
 soup. 
 
 Keep tlie beef hot, and send it up (as a 
 remove to tlie soup) with finely chopped 
 parsley sprinkled on the top, and a sauce* 
 iwai of Wow Wow sauce. 
 
 BROWN, WITHOUT MK vr. 
 
 Put three quarts or more of water, with a 
 
 Miliicienl quantity of raspings to thicken it; 
 two or three onions cut across, some whole 
 pepper, and a little salt; cover it close, am] 
 let it boil an hour and a hall'; take it off*, 
 and strain it through a sieve; fry in butter 
 some celery, endive, lettuce, spinach, and 
 any other lieiiw rut small; then take a.
 
 SOUPS 
 
 202 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 stewpan (sufficiently largie to hold all the 
 ingredients,) and put in a good piece of but- 
 ter, stick in a little flour, and keep stirring 
 til) it is colored of a nice brown ; then put 
 in the hri bs and soup; boil it till the herbs 
 are tender, and the soup of a proper consist- 
 ence, then pour the soup into a tureen, and 
 send to table; serve \viili fried bread, either 
 in the soup or in a dish. 
 
 BROWN GRAVY. (1) Take 
 
 fifteen pounds of u leg or shin of beef, cut off 
 the meat in bits, rub the bottom of the pot 
 with butter, put in the meat, let it brown 
 for nearly an hour, turning it constantly, 
 break the bone and take out the marrow, 
 which may be kept for a pudding, but it is 
 considered better than butter to brown the 
 meat with; put to it fourteen quarts of cold 
 water, and the bones; when it boils, skim 
 it perfectly clean, and add six good-sized 
 red onions, one carrot cut in three, one 
 head of celery, a good handful of whole 
 black and Jamaica pepper mixed; let this 
 boil very gently ten or twelve hours closely 
 covered, if upon a fire, but if done upon a 
 hot plate, not to be covered ; strain it through 
 a cullender, and then through a hair sieve, 
 into a large pan, to be kept for use. Re- 
 turn the meat and bones into the pot with 
 three or four quarts of hot water ; let it boil 
 nearly two hours, and strain it off. This 
 make-* good stock for gravies, stews, or 
 any made dishes. 
 
 This gravy soup keeps perfectly good for 
 three or four weeks. When it is to l>e 
 boiled to send to table, first boil vermicelli, 
 or macaroni, in a little salt and water, till 
 tender; strain it, and add it to the soup 
 just before serving. This soup is quite 
 pure, and requires no clearing. It is a 
 most convenient thing to have in a house in 
 cold weather, as it is always ready for use; 
 and, served with dry toast to eat with it, 
 makes*]) acceptable luncheon. 
 
 The trimmings of meat, giblets, and bones, 
 may be boiled with the beef for this soup. 
 
 BROWN GRAVY. (2) Cut 
 
 down three pounds of gravy beef, and put it 
 on in a stewpan will) three onions cut small, 
 and two ounces of butter; let it brown well, 
 stirring it to prevent the onions from burn- 
 ing; then add four quarts of water, one 
 head of celery, of carrots and turnips two 
 each, with some whole black pep|>cr and 
 salt; boil it gently for four hours ; strain it ; 
 and the next day Hike off the fat. When 
 it is healed, add some vermicelli, previously 
 boiled in water, and serve it after boiling 
 ten minutes. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, OR MOCK 
 
 TURTLE. (1) Parboil a calf's head, take 
 
 off the skin and cut it in bits about an inch 
 and a half square, cut the fleshy parts in bits, 
 take out the black part of the eyes, and cut 
 the rest in rings, skin the tongue, and cut it 
 in slices, add it all to three quarts of good 
 stock, and season it with cayenne, two or' 
 three blades of mace, salt, the peel of half a 
 lemon, and half a pint of white wine, with 
 about a dozen of forcemeat balls ; stew all 
 this an hour and a half, rub down with a 
 little cold water, two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 mix well amongst it half a pint of the soup, 
 and then stir it into the pot ; put in the 
 juice of half a large lemon, and the hard- 
 boiled yolks of eight eggs; let it simmer for 
 ten minutes, and then put it all in the tureen. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD. (2) Scald 
 
 and clean thoroughly a calf's head with 
 the skin on, boil it an hour gently in three 
 (marts of water, and parboil with it some 
 sweetbreads. Cut off the meat, slice and 
 fry of a light brown in butter two pounds 
 of gravy beef, one of veal, and one of mut- 
 ton, with five onions cut small ; put all into 
 the liquor, adding the bones of the head 
 broken ; rinse the frying-pan with two 
 (marts of boiling water, and put it to the 
 meat, and other things, with two whole on- 
 ions, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and twice 
 their quantity of parsley ; the peel of one 
 lemon, limr cloves, a iittle allspice, salt, 
 and black pepjier, with a slice of the crumb 
 of bread dried before the fire; let all this 
 .stew slowly for live hours, strain it, and 
 when cold, take off all the fat. Cut the 
 meat of the calf's head, tongue, and sweet- 
 breads, in small square bits, add them to 
 the soup, and when it has boiled, mix very 
 gradually with a large table-spoonful of 
 flour a cupful of the soup, and stir it gently 
 into the pot; twenty minutes before serving, 
 add a small tea-spoonful of cayenne, the 
 yolks of eight or ten hard-boiled ef 
 
 the .-ame numlicr of forcemeat balls ; a pint 
 of white wine, Madeira is the best, and 
 just before serving, add the juice of a lemon. 
 Forcemeat balls fur this soup are made as 
 follows: Mix the brains with five table- 
 spuunfuls of grated bread, the same of finely 
 minced lieef suet, a tca-spoi infill of salt, one 
 of white pepper, the grated peel of a lemon, 
 some nutmeg, and boiled parsley chopped; 
 beat the yolks and whites of two eggs, roll 
 the balls the si/e of the yolk of an egg, and 
 fry them of a light brown in boiling drip- 
 ping. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD. (3) Take as 
 
 much as is required of not very strong veal, or 
 l>cef stock, in which six onions have been 
 boiled, brown a quarter of a pound of butter 
 and thicken it well with flour, then add the 
 stock by degrees ; when it boils, put in tba
 
 SOUPS 
 
 203 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 calf's head, cut in small pieces, and some fried 
 forcemeat balls; season it with salt and 
 pepper. The peel of half a lemon improves j 
 it. When it has killed twenty mi, 
 add two table-spoonfuls of ketchup, three of i 
 essence of anchovies, and as much lemon 
 pickle as will make it a pleasant acid. To 
 give the soup a good color, and to enrich the 
 flavor, may ! aij.lcd a larije talile-spoonful 
 of flour, mixed perfectly smooth in a tea- 
 cupful of cold water, nnd stirred i;radiially 
 into the soup, after which let it boil a few 
 minutes. 
 
 CARROT. Scrape and wash 
 
 half a do/en larjjf carrots; peel off die red j 
 outside (which is the only part used for this 
 soup); put it into a gallon stcwpan, with 
 one head of celi-ry, and an onion, cut into 
 thin pieces; take two quarts of beef, veal, 
 or mutton broth, or if you have any cold j 
 roast beef l>oiics (or liquor, in which mutton 
 or beef has l>een l>oiled), you may make very 
 good lirotli for this soup: when you have 
 put tlw broth to the roots, cover the stew pan 
 
 :i'ld .-et it on a slow Sto\e tor two 
 
 hours au<l a half, \\iien the canots will l>e 
 soft eiiniiu'h (sunn- cooks [Hit ill a tea-cupful 
 of bread-crumbs) ; boil for two or three 
 inimttes; rub it through a tamis, or hair 
 sie\.', with a wooden spoon, and add as much 
 brotli as will make it a proper thick 
 t. e. almost as thick as pease soup: put it . 
 into a clean stcwpan ; make it hot; a 
 it with a little sail, and send it up with 
 some toasted bread, cut into pieces half an 
 inch s<|iiare. Some put it into the soup; 
 but the Ix-.-t wav is to send it up on a plate, 
 as a side dish. 
 
 ' CELERY. Split half a dozen 
 
 heads of celery into slips aljout two inches 
 long; wasli them well; lay them on a hair 
 i. > drain, and put tliem into three quarts 
 of clear graty soup in a gallon soup-pot; set 
 it by tlie side of the fire to stew very sentry 
 till tin "ler (this will take about 
 
 an hour). If any scum rises, lake it off; i 
 season with a little salt. 
 
 O6. When celery cannot be procured, 
 half a diaclmi of the seed, pounded line, 
 which may ! considered as tl>e essence of 
 celen, , put in a quarter of an hour licton- the 
 coup is done, and a little ,-n^.ir, will give as ' 
 mm li flavor to half a gallon of soup as two 
 heads of celery weighing seven ounces, or 
 add a link; essence of celery. 
 
 COCKY-LEI:KY. Take a 
 
 an hour: then put in as many more feeks, 
 :iiid nive it three-<]oarten of an hour longer: 
 this is very good, made of good beef stock, 
 and leeks put in at twice. 
 
 - CRAW FISH. This soup is 
 sometimes made with l>eef, or veal broth, or 
 with fish, in the following manner: Take 
 flounders, eels, gudgeons, &c., and set them 
 on to boil in cold water ; when it is pretty 
 nigh boiling, skim it well; and to three 
 quarts put in a couple of onions, and as many 
 carrots cut to pieces, some parsley, a do/.en 
 berries of black and Jamaica pepper, and 
 alxiut half a hundred craw-fish ; take off the 
 small claws and shells of the tails; pound 
 them fine, and boil them with the brotli 
 alxnit an hour; strain off, and break in 
 some crusts of bread to thicken it, and, if 
 you can get it, the spawn of a lobster ; |xnind 
 it, and put it to the soup; let it simmer ver) 
 gently for a cou|le of minutes; put in your 
 craw-fish to get hot, and the soup is ready. 
 
 CUES3Y. (1) 
 
 clean, 
 
 and cut small, ei;lit carrots, eight turnips, 
 three heads of celery, and six onions; put 
 them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound 
 of butter and a slice of ham, st<-w them 
 gently for an hour, stirring tliem constantly: 
 when they bejiin to brown add as much 
 gravy soup as \\ill fill the tureen; let it boil 
 till the vegetables are sufficiently tender to 
 pulp with a s|M>on through a sieve, after 
 which put it on tlie fire and boil it half an 
 hour, skin, and season it with pepper and 
 salt. This soup should I* as thick as melt- 
 ed butter. Two pounds of beef boiled in 
 lour quarts of water till reduced to three, 
 will answer for the soup. 
 
 -- - CRESSY. (2) Slice twelve 
 lar^e onions, and fry them pretty brown in 
 a quarter of a pound of fresh butter ; scrape 
 and clean two dozen of good red carrots, 
 boil them in four quart.? of water till quite 
 soft; pound them in a marble mortar, mix 
 them willi the onions and add the liquor in 
 which the carrots were boiled, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, pepper, salt, a blade of mace, 
 anil t,vo or three cloves; let them all boil 
 aliout an hour. then rub them through a hair 
 sieve; put it on again to beil rather quickly, 
 till it be as thick as rich cream. Put a lit- 
 tle dry boiled rice in the tureen, and pour 
 the soup over it. If llie carrots are large, 
 one dozen will be found sufficient. 
 
 CUCUMBER. Make some 
 
 mutton, in- shank of veal, three broth w ith a neck of mutton, a thick slice 
 quarts of \\ati-r (or liquor in which meat has of lean Inco-i, an onion stuck with three 
 been lil.-<i), ami a good siwd fowl, with cloves, a c iirot, two turnips, some salt, and 
 two in- lin-ri- In-ks cut in pieci-s a'Kint an a bunch of sweet herbs; strain it; brown 
 inch long, |>ep|ier and salt; boil skmly abool with an ounce of butter the crumb of a
 
 SOUPS 
 
 204 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 French roll, to which put four large cucum- 
 bers, and two heads of lettuce cut small ; let 
 them stew a quarter of an hour, and add to 
 them a quart of the broth ; when it Iniils 
 put in a pint of green pease, and as il stews, 
 a3d two quarts more of the broth. 
 
 CURRY, OR MULLAGA- 
 
 TAAVNY. Cut four pounds of a breast of 
 veal into pieces, about two inches by one; 
 put the trimmings into a stewpan with two 
 quarts of water, with twelve corns of black 
 pepper, and the same of allspice; when it 
 boils, skim it clean, and let it boil an hour 
 and a half, then strain it off; while it is 
 boiling, fry of a nice brown in butter the 
 bits of veal and four onions ; when they are 
 done, put the broth to them ; put it on the 
 fire; when it boils, skim it clean; let it 
 simmer half an hour; then mix two spoon- 
 fuls of curry, and the same of flour, with a 
 little cold water and a tearspoonful of salt ; 
 add these to the soup, and simmer it gently 
 till the veal is quite tender, and it is ready; 
 or bone a couple of fowls or rabbits, and 
 stew them in the 'manner directed above for 
 the veal, and you may put in a bruised esr 
 chalot, and some mace and ginger, instead of 
 black pepper and allspice. 
 
 CURRY. Mince small three 
 
 or four onions, according to tlieir size, put 
 them into a saucepan with two ounces of 
 butter, dredge in some flour, and fry them 
 till of a light brown, taking care not to 
 burn them ; rub in by degrees a lai-ge table- 
 spoonful and a half of curry-powder, till it 
 be quite a paste; gradually stir in three 
 quarts of gravy soup, mixing it well togeth- 
 er; boil it gently till it be well flavored 
 with the CUITV -powder ; strain it into anoth- 
 er saucepan, and add a fowl skinned and 
 cut in small pieces, dividing each joint; 
 stew it slowly an hour. In half a pint of 
 the soup put a large table-spoonful of tama- 
 rinds, and stew them so as to separate the 
 stalks and stones; strain and stir it into the 
 soup with half a tea-spoonful of salt, and 
 boil it for fifteen minutes before serving. 
 
 EEL. To make a tureenful, take 
 
 a couple of middling-sized onions, cut them 
 in half, and cross your knife over them two 
 or three times; put two ounces of butter 
 into a stewpan, when it is melted put in the 
 onions, stir them about till they are lightly 
 browned; cut into pieces three pounds of 
 eels, put them into your stewpan, and shake 
 them over the fire for five minutes; then add 
 three quarts of boiling water, and wlien they 
 come to a boil, take the scum off very clean ; 
 then put in a quarter of an ounce of the 
 green leaves (not dried) of winter savory, 
 the same of lemon thyme, and twice the 
 
 quantity of parsley, two drachms of allspice, 
 the same of black pepper ; cover it close, 
 and let it boil gently for two hours; then 
 strain it off, and skim it very clean. To 
 thicken it, put three ounces of butter into a 
 clean stewpan ; when it is melted, stir in as 
 much flour as will make it of a stiff paste, 
 then add the liquor by degrees ; lei it simmer 
 for ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve; 
 then put your soup on in a clean stewpan, 
 and have ready some little square pieces of 
 fish fried of a nice light brown, either eels, 
 soles, plaice, or skate will do; the fried 
 fish should be added about ten minutes be- 
 fore the soup is served up. Forcemeat balls 
 are sometimes added. 
 
 GIBLET. Clean very nicely 
 
 two sets of giblets, parboil them. Take the 
 skin off the feet; cut the gizzards in quar- 
 ters, the necks in three bits, the feet, pin- 
 ions, and livers, in two, the head in two 
 also, first taking off the bill; boil them till 
 nearly done enough in a quart of weak gravy 
 soup with an onion. Have ready boiling 
 some rich highly -seasoned brown gravy soup; 
 add the giblets and the liquor they have been 
 boiled in, with some chopped parsley; take 
 out the onion, and thicken the soup with a 
 bit of butter kneaded in flour. If tlie giblets 
 are not perfectly sweet and fresh, do not add 
 the weak soup they were lioiled in. Half a 
 pint of wine may lie added a little before 
 serving, but it is very good without. 
 
 GOURD, Should be made of 
 
 full-grown gourds, but not those that have 
 hard skins; slice three or four, and put them 
 in a stewpan, with two or three onions, and 
 a good bit of butter; set them over a slow 
 fire till quite tender (be careful not to Jet 
 them burn) ; then add two ounces of crust of 
 bread, anil two quarts of good consomme; 
 season with salt and cayenne pepper: boil 
 ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour; skim 
 off all the fat, and pass it through a tamis ; 
 then make it quite hot, and serve up with 
 fried bread. 
 
 GRAVY, CLEAR. Cut half a 
 
 pound of ham into slices, and lay them at 
 the bottom of a large stewpan or stockpot, 
 with two or three pounds of lean l>ccf, and 
 as much veal ; break the bones, and lay them 
 on the meat; take off the outer skin of two 
 large onions and two turnips; wash, clean, 
 and cut into pieces a couple of large carrots, 
 and two heads of celery; and put in three 
 cloves and a large blade of mace. Cover 
 the stewpan close, and set it over a smart 
 fire. When tlte meat begins to stick to the 
 bottom of the stewpan, turn it; and when 
 there is a nice brown glaze at the bottom of 
 the stewpan, cover the meat with hot water:
 
 SOUPS 
 
 205 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 watch it, and when it is coming to boil put 
 in half a pint of cold water; take off the 
 scum; tlH-n put in half a pint more cold 
 water, ami skim it again, and continue to 
 do to till no more scum rises. \ow set it 
 on one side of the fire to Ix/il gently f n- :ilnt 
 four hours ; strain it through a clean tamis 
 or napkin (do not squee/e it, or 
 will Ix- thick) into a clean stone pan; let it 
 remain till it is cold, and then remove all the 
 fit. When you decant it, Ix- caivfnl not to 
 disturb the settlings at the bottom of the 
 pan. 
 
 The broth should be of a fine amber color, 
 and as clear as rock wat.-r. If it is not 
 quite o bright as you wisli it, put it into a 
 Mew pan; break two whites and shells of 
 eggs into a basin; beat them well together; 
 put them into the soup: set it on a quick 
 iire, and stir it with a whisk till it bills; 
 then set it on one side of ihe lire to settle 
 for ten minutes; run it through a fine napkin 
 into a Ictsin, and it is ready. 
 
 However, if your broth is carefully skim- 
 med, &c. according to the directions above 
 given, it will Ix- clear enough without clari- 
 fying; which process iiujKiirs UK! flavor of 
 it in a higher proportion than it improves 
 its appearance. This is the basis of almost 
 all gravy soups, which are called bv the 
 name of the \egelabli-7. that are put into them. 
 Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few 
 lea\e> nf chervil, make what is called spring 
 soup, or soup saute; to this a pint 
 
 i asparagus pease, 01 1'ieiich Ix-ans 
 cut into pieci-<, or a cabbage Ivtlii' 
 improvement. With rice or Scotch bale-,, 
 with macaroni or vermicelli, or celery cut 
 into lengths, it will be the soup usually call- 
 ed In iho.-e names. Or turnip- 
 round, or young onions, will gi\e you a clear 
 turnip or onion soup; an. I all tin - 
 bles mixed together, soup GRESSI. The 
 roots and vegetables yon n.-c must lie I HI! led 
 !ir-t, or they will impregnate the soup with 
 too strong a flavor. The seasoning for all 
 Uieee soups is the same, viz. salt and a very 
 little cayenne pepper. 
 
 GAME. In the game season, it 
 
 .r a ciiok to give a very good soup 
 at a very little expense, by taking all the 
 meat oil the breasts of any cold birds which 
 have been left (he preceding day, and pound- 
 i i_' it in a mortar, and lieating to pieces the 
 legs ami bones, and lulling them in some 
 broth for an hour. Boil six turnips; mash 
 tin-in, and -train them through a tamis cloth 
 with the meat that has lit-cn (minuled in a 
 mortar; strain your broth, and put a little 
 of it at a time into the Mini- to help you to 
 strain all of it through. Put your -onp-kel- 
 rle mar ilie die, Inil do not let it boil: when 
 ready to dish jour dinner, liave six yolks of 
 18 
 
 egg* mixed with half a pint of cream ; strain 
 
 through a sieve; put your soup on the fire, 
 and as it is coming to boil, put in the eggs, 
 and stir well with a woo<l^ jsnooii : do not 
 let it boil, or it will curdled* 
 
 HARE. Cut the hare in joints 
 
 as for a fricassee, and put it in a stewpan, 
 with a little allspice, three blades of mace, 
 some salt, UddM^pIe black pepper, a bunch 
 of par.-K-y, a spff^ uf lemon thyme, one of 
 winter savory, flur quarts of water, a slice 
 of ham, and lour pounds of lean beef, two 
 carrots, and four onions cut down ; let it 
 Ixiil till it \>e reduced to three quarts; sepa- 
 rate the hare, and strain die soup over it, 
 and add a pint of Port wine; boil it up be- 
 fore serving. 
 
 HERB. Wash and cut small 
 
 twelve cabbage lettuces, a handful of chervil, 
 one of purslane, one of parslev, eight large 
 green onions, and three haudfuls of sorrel; 
 when pease are in season omit half the quanti- 
 ty of sorrel, and put a quart of young green 
 |xa-e; put them all into a saucepan, with 
 half a pound of butter and three carrots cat 
 small, some salt and pepper; let them stew 
 cl -el\ covrred for half an hour, shaking 
 thi in occasionally to prevent their adhering 
 to the |n ; fry in butter six cucumbers cut 
 longways in four pieces; add them with four 
 quarts of hot water, half a French roll, and 
 a crust of brcj^i toasted U|>on both si.i. - ; 
 and let the whole 'boil till reduce;! to life*; 
 quarts, then Ktr.iin it through a sie\e; beat 
 up the yolks of four eggs with half a pint 
 f i reaia, and stir it gently into the soup just 
 ' before serving. 
 
 . HERB POWDER, OR VEG- 
 ETABLE RELISH. Dried parslev, win- 
 ' ter savory, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, 
 of each two ounces; lemon-peel, cut veiy 
 thin, and dried, and sweet basil, an ounce 
 of each. Some add to the above bay-leave* 
 and celery-seed, a drachm each. Dry them 
 in a warm, but not too hot Dutch oven: 
 when quite dried, pound them in a mortar, 
 and pa.-s them through a double hair sieve; 
 put them in a bottle closely stopped, they 
 will retain their fragrance and flavor for 
 several months. 
 
 Obt. This composition of tlie fine aro- 
 matic herbs is an invaluable acquisition t.i 
 the cook in those seasons or situations when 
 fresh heib- cannot be had ; and we pn-t> i it 
 to the ragout powder. It impregnates sauce, 
 soup, Stc. with .is much relish, anil render* 
 it agreeable to the palate, and refreshes the 
 nei-ves, without so much risk of 
 offending tiw stomach. 
 
 INVALID. Cut in small pieces
 
 SOUPS 
 
 206 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 one pound of beef or mutton, or part of both ; 
 boil it gently in two quarts of water; take 
 off the .-rum. and wlien reduce, I to a pint, 
 strain it. Season with a little salt, and take 
 a tea-cupful at a time. 
 
 LOBSTER. (1) Cut. small a 
 
 dozen of common-sized onions, put them into 
 a stewpan with a small hit of butler, a slice 
 or two of lean ham, and a .slice of lean l>eef ; 
 when the onions are (|uiie soft, mix gradu- 
 ally with them some rich stock; let it toil, 
 and strain it through a fine hair sieve, press- 
 ing the pulp of the onions with a wooden 
 spoon; then boil it well, skimming it all the 
 time. Beat the meat of a boiled cod, the 
 spawn and lx>dy of a large lobster, or of two 
 small ones, in a marble mortar; add grad- 
 ually to it rhe soup, stirring it till it is as 
 smooth as cream ; let it toil again anil scum 
 it. Cut the tail and the claws of the lobster 
 into pieces, and add them to the soup before 
 serving it, and also gome pepper, cayenne,- 
 white pep|>er, and a gfass of white wine. 
 Forcemeat balls may l>e added to oyster soup 
 and lobster soup, made as directed under the 
 article " Forcemeat for fish."" 
 
 LOBSTER. (2) You must 
 
 have three fine lively young hen lobsters, 
 split the tails; take out the fish, crack the 
 claws, and cut the meat into mouthfulsr 
 take out the coral, and soft part of the tody ; 
 bruise part of the coral in a mortar; pick 
 out the fish from the chines; beat part of it 
 with the coral, and with this make forcemeat 
 Ixills, finely-flavored with mace or nutmeg, 
 a little grated lemon-peel, anchovy and cay- 
 enne ; pound these with the yolk of an egg. 
 
 Have three quarts of veal broth; bruise 
 the small legs and the chine, and put them 
 into it, to toil for twenty minutes, then 
 train it; and then to thicken it, take the 
 live spawn and bruise it in a mortar wilh a 
 little butter and flour; nib it through a sieve, 
 and add it to the soup with the meat of the 
 lobsters, and the remaining coral; let it 
 simmer very gently for ten minutes; do not 
 let it toil, or its fine red color will imme- 
 diately fade ; turn it into a tureen ; add the 
 juice of a good lemon, and a little essence 
 of anchovy. 
 
 LORRA1N. Boil in four quarts 
 
 of water a knuckle of veal, one pound of 
 lean beef, and one pound of mutton, a car- 
 rot, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, and a little 
 lemon thyme, some salt and white pepper, 
 till reduced to three, then strain the liquor; 
 pound very finely in a marble mortar, all the 
 white meat of a large roasted fowl, with a 
 quarter of a pound of blanched almonds, and 
 lie volks of four hard-toiled eggs; tod in 
 .milk the crumb of a French roll, and pound 
 
 it with tlie other ingredients, and stir it all 
 well into the soup; let it toil gently for ten 
 minute.- before serving. 
 
 - MAIGRE, OR VEGETABLE 
 GRAVY. Put into a gallon stewpan three 
 ounces of totter ; set it over a slow fire ; 
 while it is melting, slice four ounces of 
 onion; cut in small pieces one turnip, one 
 carrot, and a head of celery ; put them in the 
 stewpan, cover it close, let it fry till they are 
 lightly browned; this will take atout twen- 
 ty-five minutes: have ready, in a saucepan, 
 a pint of pease, with four quarts of water; 
 when the roots in the stewpan are quite 
 brown, and the |x-ase come to a boil, put the 
 |>ease and water to them ; pat it on the fire j 
 when it toils, skim it clean, and put in a 
 crust of bread about as big as the top of a 
 twopenny loaf, twenty-four berries of all- 
 spice, the same of black pep|x>r, and two 
 blades of mace; cover it close, let it simmer 
 gently for one hour and a half; then set it 
 from the fire for ten minutes; then pour it 
 oftvery gently (so as not to disturb the sedi- 
 ment at the bottom of the stewpan) into a 
 large basin ; let it stand (about two hours) 
 till it is (mite cle.ir: while this is doing, 
 shred one large turnip, the red part of a 
 large carrot, three omices of onion minced, 
 ami one large head of celcty cut into small 
 bits; put the turnips and carrots on the fire 
 in cold water, let them toil five minutes, 
 then drain them on a sieve, then pour off the 
 soup clear Hito a stewpan, put in tlie roots, 
 put tlie soup on the fire, let it simmer gently 
 till the herbs we tender (from thirty to forty 
 minutes), season it with salt ami a little 
 cayenne, and it is ready. You may add a 
 table-spoonful of mmhroom ketchup. You 
 will have three quarts of soup, as well color- 
 ed, and almost as well flavored, as if made 
 wilh gravy meat. To make tins it requires 
 nearly five hours. To fry the hcilw requires 
 twenty-five minutes; to toil all together, one 
 hour and a hull ; to settle, at the least, two 
 hum's ; when clear, and put on the fire aguHi. 
 half an hour more. 
 
 MACARONI. (1) Boil for three 
 
 hours very quickly, in five quarts of water, 
 seven pounds of veal, a little salt, a dessert- 
 spoonful of white pepper, and three or four 
 blades of mac?; strain it off, put it into a 
 saucepan, and keep it hot upon a stove. 
 Mix five table-spoonfuls of flour with two 
 ounces of butter, put it into an iron-tinned 
 saucepan, and stir it over the fire till it be 
 melted ; add half a pint of the strained stock, 
 and then gradually mix the whole together, 
 and keep stirring constantly till it thickens, 
 and then add two ounces and a half of mac- 
 aroni, previously toiled in milk and water 
 for eight minutes; stir it again till it toil.
 
 SOUPS 
 
 207 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 Take the pan off the stove, and Mir in V>y 
 degrees about three-quarters of a pint of rich 
 sweet cream, and just let it boil before ser- 
 ving. 
 
 MACARONI. (2) Make a good 
 
 clock with a knuckle of veal, a little sweet 
 marjoram, parsley, some salt, white pepper, 
 three blades of mace, and two or three on- , 
 ions; strain and boil it. Break in small bits 
 a quarter of a pound of macaroni, and genlly 
 simmer it in milk and water till il be swell- 
 ed and is tender ; strain it, and add h to the ! 
 soup, \\liidi thicken with two table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, inixe- 1 in half a pint of cream, and 
 stirred gradually into the soup. Boil it a few 
 minutes before serving. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE. Endeavor 
 
 to have the head and the broth ready for the 
 
 soap, the day before it is to be eaten. It 
 
 will take eight hours to prepare it properly. 
 
 kaurt. 
 
 Cleaning and soaking the head 1 
 
 To parboil it to cut up 1 
 
 Cooling, nearly 1 
 
 Making the broth and finishing the soup 5 
 
 8 
 Get a calf's head with the skin on (the 
 
 fresher tlte heller) ; take out the brains, 
 \\a-h the head several times in cold water, 
 let it soak for about an hour in spring water, 
 then lay it in a stewpan, and cover it with 
 cold water, and half a gallon over; as it be- 
 comes warm, a great deal of scum will rise, 
 which must be immediately removed ; let it 
 boil gently lor one hour, take it up, and when 
 almost cold, cut the head into pieces about 
 an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter, 
 and the tongue into mouthful*, or rather 
 
 de-dish of the tongue and brains. 
 When the head is taken out, put in the 
 stock meat, aliout five pounds of knuckle of 
 veal, and as much Ijeef; add lo the stock all 
 the trimmings and bones of the head, skim 
 it well, and dien cover it close, and let it 
 boil fi\e hours (reserve a couple of quarts of 
 
 ike gravy sauces) ; then strain it off, ! 
 and let it stand till the next morning; then 
 take off the fat, set a large stewpan on the 
 fire with half a pound of good fresh butter, 
 twelve ounces of onions sliced, and four oun- 
 ces of green sage ; chop it a little; let these 
 fi\ <>ne hour; then rub in half a pound of 
 flour, and by degrees add your broth till it in 
 the thickness of cream ;' season it with a 
 quarter of an ounce of ground allspice and 
 half an ounce of black pepper ground very 
 fine, salt to your taste, and the rind of one 
 lemon peeled very thin; let it simmer very 
 gervly fir one hour and a half, then strain it 
 through a hair sieve ; do not nib your soup 
 to yi il through ihe sieve, or it will make it I 
 {,'ioutv ; if it docs not run through easily, ! 
 
 knock your wooden spoon against the aide 
 of your sieve; put it in a clean stewpan with 
 the head, and season it by adding to each 
 gallon of soup half a pint of wiiy this .should 
 be Madeira, or, if you wish to duiken the 
 color of your soup, claret, and two taUo- 
 spoonfuls of lemon-juice ; let it simmer gently 
 till the meal is tender; this may lake from 
 half an hour to an hour: take care it is not 
 over-done ; stir it frequently to prevent the 
 meat sticking to the bottom of the Mewpun, 
 and when the meat is quite tender the soup 
 is ready. 
 
 A head weighing twenty pounds, and ten 
 pounds of slock meat, will make ten quarts 
 of excellent soup, besides the two quarts of 
 stock you have put by for made dishes. 
 
 Obs. If thei e is more meat on the head 
 than you wish to put in tlie soup, prepare it 
 for a pie, and, with the addition of a calPs 
 foot boiled tender, it will make an excellent 
 ragout pie; season it with zest, and a little 
 minced onion, put in half a tea-cupful of 
 stock, cover it with puff paste, and bake it 
 one hour : when the soup comes from table, 
 if there is a deal of meat and no soup, put il 
 into a pie-dish, season it a little, and add 
 some little stock to it; then cover it with 
 paste, bake it one hour, and you have a 
 good mock turtle pie. 
 
 To season it, to each gallon of soup put 
 iwo table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, same of 
 mushroom ketchup, and one of essence of 
 anchovy, half a pint of wine (this should be 
 Madeira, or, if you wish to darken the color 
 of your soup, claret), a tea-spoonful of curry 
 powder, or a quarter of a drachm of cayenne, 
 and the peel of a lemon pared as thin a* 
 possible; lei it simmer five minutes more, 
 take out the lemon-peel, and the soup is ready 
 for the tureen. 
 
 While the soup is doing, prepare for each 
 tureen a dozen and a half of mock turtle 
 forcemeat balls, and put them into die tureen. 
 Brain balls, or cakes, are a very elegant ad- 
 dition, and are made by boiling the brain* 
 for ten minutes, llien pulling ihem in cold 
 water, and cutting them into pieces about a* 
 big as a large nutmeg ; take savory, or lemon 
 thyme dried and finely powdered, nutmeg 
 grated, and pepper and salt, and pound them 
 all together; beat up an egg, dip the brains 
 in it, and then roll them in this mixture, and 
 make as much of it as possible stick to diem ; 
 dip them in the egg again, and then in finely- 
 grated and sifted bread-crumbs ; fry them la 
 hot fat, and send them up as a side dish. 
 
 A veal sweetbread, not too much done of 
 il will break, cut into pieces the name size 
 as you cut the calf's head, and put in the 
 soup, just to get warm before it goes to table, 
 is a superb " bonne bouche;" and pickled 
 tongue, stewed till very tender, and rut into 
 mouthful*, is a favorite addition. We order
 
 SOUPS 
 
 208 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 (he me:U to be cut into mouthful*, that it 
 may be eaten with a spoon: die knife and 
 fork have no business in a soup-plate. 
 
 N. B. In helping this soup, the distri- ] 
 l>uler of it should serve out the meat, force- 
 meat, and gravy, in equal parts; however , 
 trifling or needless this remark may appear, , 
 the writer ha* often suffered from the want 
 of such a hiut l>eing given to the soup-serr- . 
 IT, who lias sometimes sent a plate of mere 
 gravy without meat, at others, of meat with- 
 out gravy, and sometimes scarcely any thing 
 1 ut forcemeat balls. 
 
 06s. This is a delicious soup, within 
 the reach of those who "eat to live;" but 
 if it had been composed expressly for those 
 who only " live to eat," I do not know how 
 it could have been made more agreeable: as 
 it is, the lover of good eating will " wish his 
 throata mile long, and every inch of it palate." 
 
 MOCK MOCK TURTLE. Line 
 
 the bottom of a stewpan that will hold five 
 pints, with an ounce of nice lean bacon or 
 ha:n, a pound and a half of lean gravy beef, 
 u cow-heel, the inner riiid of a carrot, a sprig 
 of lemon thyme, winter savory, three times 
 tlie quantity of parsley, a few green leaves 
 rf sweet basil, and two eschalots; put in a 
 large onion, with four cloves stuck in it, 
 eighteen corns of allspice, the same of black 
 [>epper ; pour on these a quarter of a pint 
 of cold water, cover the stewpan, and set it 
 on a slow fire, to boil gently for a quarter 
 of an hour; then, for fear the meat should 
 catch, take off the cover, and watch it ; and 
 when it lias got a good brown color, fill up 
 tlie stewpan with boiling water, and let it 
 simmer very gently for two hours: if you 
 wish to have the full benefit of the meat, 
 only stew it till it is just tender, cut it into 
 mouthfuls, and put it into the soup. To 
 thicken it, pour two or three table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, a ladleful of tlie gravy, and stir it 
 (jiiick till it is well mixed; pour it back in- 
 to tlie stewpan where tlie gravy is, and let 
 it simmer gently for half an hour longer; 
 skim it, and then strain it through a tamis 
 into tlie stewpan: cut tlie cow-heel into 
 pieces alxnit an inch square, squeeze through 
 ve the juice of a lemon, a table-spoon- 
 f.il of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of ground black 
 r , as much grated nutmeg as will lie 
 <;<i ;i six|>ence, and a glass of Madeira or 
 Sherry wine ; let it all simmer together for 
 five minutes longer. Forcemeat or egg balls 
 liii.y be added if you please. 
 
 A pound of vea'l cutlets, or the tally part 
 of pickled pork, or nice double tripe cut in- 
 to pieces about an inch square, and half an 
 inch thick, and rounded and trimmed ner.t- 
 ly from all skin, gristle, &c. and stewed till 
 tliey are tender, will be a great addition. 
 
 MOOR-FOV,'!.. It may Le 
 
 made with or without brown gravy soup; 
 when with the. former, six birds are suffi- 
 cient, when with moor-f .v, I <> \\ , boil five in 
 four quarts of water, pound the breasts in a 
 mortar and rub it through a sieve, put it 
 with the legs, backs, and three more moor- 
 fowl, cut down in joints, into tlie liquor, 
 season with a pint of Port wine, 
 and salt, and let it buil an \\.\v. 
 only six birds are used, pound the breast* 
 of three or four. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY. (1) Put 
 
 half a pound of fresh butter, with six large 
 onions sliced, three cloves of garlic, some 
 chopped parsley, and sweet marjoram, into 
 a stewpan, let it slew over a slow fire till 
 of a light brown color; cut in small pieces 
 five pounds of lean beef, and let that stew 
 till the gravy be extracted, and then put in 
 three quarts of boiling water, and half a 
 pound of Scotch barley, and let it simmer 
 four hours very slowly; mix four table- 
 spoonfuls of curry-powder with cold water, 
 and add it to the stock; take out the beef, 
 and rub the barley through a sieve, to thick- 
 en the sou]). Cut a fowl in joints, skin it, 
 and put it in a stewpan with a piece of but- 
 ter, and let it stew till quite tender; the 
 stewpan must be kept closely covered: this 
 to be added to the soup, the last tiling, with 
 a pint of lx>iling milk, and the juice of two 
 lemons. Boiled rice uuist always be :-c.\e.l 
 with this soup. 
 
 , MULLAGATAWNY. (2) 
 
 Make a strong stock of the bones of masted 
 beef, mutton, and fowl ; while it is pi rpar- 
 ing, put into a stewpan, with six ounces of 
 butter, three quarts of sliced turnip, two 
 quarts of carrots, and eight larg r - i.nioiis 
 also sliced; let them stew upon the stme till 
 tender ; then add three (marts of the pre- 
 pared stock, a large slice of the crumb of 
 bread, and two table-spoonfuls of curry- 
 powder; let them stew four or live hours; 
 strain it through a tammy cloth, with 
 two wooden spoons, taking care that no 
 bones be left amongst the vegetables; if too 
 thick to go through, add more stock. Then 
 cut a fowl in pieces, fry it in a frying-pan 
 with butter, and add it to the soup; after 
 it has Ixtiled a little, draw it to the side 
 of the stove, and let it simmer, that the 
 grouse may be taken "oft". A little good 
 I'XT!' .-tuckj in addition to that made of the 
 bones will be an improvement. Jt is some- 
 times thickened with whole or ground rice, 
 instead of bread, and ought to be made 
 upon a stove. 
 
 . ON1O.X. Toil in four quarts of 
 
 water six pounds of a knuckle of veal, with
 
 SOUPS 
 
 209 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 t-spoonful of whole white pepper, 
 and a few lihdes of niiire; when the meat 
 is si) much boiled as lo leave the !>, strain 
 off the slock. The foil iwlng day boil nine 
 or ten hirije Spanish onion.-! in milk and 
 water, till siimcieutlv tender to p>i!p through 
 a sieve; take the fat o(T from the top of the 
 nock, lx>il it up, and add the <>< 
 about a quarter of a pimnd of lVe.-li butter 
 wurke'l xx it!i txxo hcapc'l tali'.---coonfuls of 
 silted llmir of rice, ami a littl-- salt; boil it 
 gently for half an boor,ftirring it constantly, 
 and a little. U'fore serving, .--lir in half a pint 
 of rich cream. 
 
 - OX-HEAD, Should be pre- 
 pared the day In-line it is to In' calm, as you 
 cannot cut the ine.it oil' the itead into neat 
 tnoitthfiils unless it is rold: thcrefoie, tlie 
 day U'tore you want this soup, put half an 
 ox -check into a tub of eold water to soak 
 for a couple of hours; (hen break the IMMICS 
 that have not been broken at the butcher's, 
 and w,i-!i it very well in warm water; put 
 it into a p 'I, anil cover it \xilli cold water; 
 when it boils, skim it xery clean, and then 
 put in one head of celery, a couple of carrots, 
 a turnip, two large onions, two dozen tar- 
 ries of black pcp|>er, same of allspice, and 
 a bundle of sw-et herbs, .-:ich as marjoram, 
 lemon ihxme, saxorv, and a handful of ;>ars- 
 ley; cover the soiip-|>ot elo-e, and set it on a 
 ylow (ire; take off the scum, which will rise 
 when i' is coming to a Ixiil, and set it by the 
 fireside to stew very gently for about three 
 hours; take out tbe head, lay it on dish, 
 jxnir tlie soup through a fine sieve into a 
 stone- xx are pan, and set it and the head by 
 I place till tlie next day; then cut 
 (lie meat into neat moutlit'uls, skim and strain 
 off the broth, put two quarls of it and the 
 meat into a clean Mcwpan, let it simmer xery 
 gently fir half an hour longer, and it is 
 ready, ll you wish it thickened, put two 
 oiirire-j of Ixitte.r into a stewpan ; when it is 
 melted, throw in us much Hour as xx ill dry it 
 iii): xx hen tliey are all well mixed together, 
 and browned by decrees, pour to this your 
 soup, and stir it xvell togi ih.-r; let it simmer 
 for h.ilf an hour longer; strain it through a 
 Lair sieve into a clean stewpan, and put to 
 it tlie meat of the head ; let it slew half an 
 hour longer, and season it xx ith cayenne 
 pepj>er, gait, and a glass of good wine, or a 
 table-iinoonful of brandy. It yon serve it as 
 Koup for a dozen people, thicken one tureen, 
 and mud up the meal in that ; and send up 
 the oilier as a clear gravy soup, with wnne 
 of the carrots and turnips xhix-dded, or cm 
 into shapes. 
 
 - OX-HEEL, Must be made the 
 day In-fine it i- to U- eaten. Procure an 
 ox-heel nndre.-.sed, or only scalded, and two 
 
 that have been boiled :is tlcy usually are at 
 llie tri|>e shops. 
 
 Cut the nie.it off the boiled heels into neat 
 mouthfuls, and set it by on a plate; put the 
 triflHMan and Ujnes; in a stewpan, xx ith three 
 quart* of xxaler, and the unlioiled heel cut into 
 quarters; furnish a stexxpan with txvo onions, 
 and txxo ttiriiips pared and sliced; pare off 
 the red part of a couple of large cnnots, add 
 a couple of eschalots cut in half, a bunch of 
 savory or lemon thyme, and double the quan- 
 tity of parsley ; set this over, or by the side 
 of a slow, steady fire, and keep il closely 
 covered and simmering very gently (or ihc 
 soup liquor xx ill evaporate) for at !'. 
 hours: during which, take care to remove 
 the fat and scum that xvill rise to the surface 
 }>, which must be kept as clean as 
 
 |X)ssil)!e. 
 
 Noxv strain the liquor through a sieve, 
 and put txvo ounc *s of butter 'into a clean 
 stexvpan ; xvhen it is melted, stir into it as 
 much Hour as xxill make it a stiff paste; add. 
 to it by degrees the soup liquor; gixe it a 
 l*iil up; strain it through a siexe, and pot 
 in the peel of a lemon pared as thin as pop. 
 sible, and a couple of bay-leaves, and the 
 mi ii of ihe I Milled net-Is ; lei it go on s'nn- 
 IIH.-I ing for half an hour longer, i. e. till the 
 meat is tender. Put in tlie juice of a lemon, 
 a jrlass of xvine, and a table-spoonful of mush-! 
 room ketchup, and the soup is ready for the, 
 tureen. 
 
 Those xvho are disposed to make this a 
 more substantial dish, may introduce a 
 couple of sets of goose or duck giblets, or 
 s-taiK or a pound of voal cutlets, cut into 
 mouthfuls. 
 
 OX-TAIL. Three tails, costin- 
 
 alxiut 2il. each, xx ill make a tureen of soup 
 (desire the butcher to divide them at tlte 
 joints); lay them to soak in xvann xvater, 
 
 j while you get ready the vegetables. 
 
 I'm into a gallon stexxpan eight clove*, 
 txvo or three onions, half a drachm of alW 
 spice, and the same of black pep|ier, and 
 the tails: cover tin-in with cold water; skim 
 it carefully, xvhen and as long as you sne 
 any scum rise; then cover the pot as clow 
 as |isvil)|.-, and set it on the side of the 
 fire to keep gently simmering till the meat 
 Iwronies tender and will leave tlie bones 
 easily , l>ecaiisc it is to be eaten xvith a Fpoon, 
 xx ithotit i he assistance of a knife or f >rk ; thn 
 xvill require aliout two hours: mind it is not 
 done too much: xvben perfectly lender, take 
 out the meat and cut it off tlie bones, ! 
 neat mouthful* ; skim tlie broth, and strain 
 it through a siexe; if yo<i prefer a thicken- 
 
 I ed soup, put Hour and butter, as directed in 
 the prill-ding le-eipt; or put txxo lab)f>- 
 spoonfuki of tlie fit you have taken off the 
 
 broth int.) a !".ia /-tcxxptP,, with <IS milC^
 
 SOUPS 
 
 210 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 flour us will make it into a paste ; set this 
 over the fire, and stir them well together; 
 then ]x>ur in the broth by degrees, stirring 
 it, and mixing it with the thickening; let 
 it simmer for another half hour, and when 
 yon have well skimmed it, anil it is quite 
 smooth, then strain it through a (amis into 
 a clean stewpan, put in the meat, with a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass 
 of wine, and season it \\illi s;.!t. 
 
 Obs. If the meat is rut off the bones, 
 yon must have three tails lor a tureen, some 
 put an ox-cheek or tails in an earthen 
 pan, u ilh all the ingredients as above, and 
 send them to a slow oven for five or six 
 hours. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN. (1) A peck of 
 
 peas will make you a good tureen of soup. 
 In shelling them, put the old ones in one 
 basin, and the young ones in another, and 
 keep out a pint of them, and boil them 
 separately to put into your soup when it is 
 finished: put a large saucepan on the fire 
 half full of water; when it boils, put the 
 peas in, with a handful of salt; let them 
 boil till they are done enough, i. e. from 
 twenty to thirty minutes, according to their 
 age and size; then drain them in a colan- 
 der, and put them into a clean gallon stew- 
 pan, and three quarts of plain veal or mut- 
 ton broth (drawn from meat without any 
 spices or herbs, &c. which would overpow- 
 er the flavor of the soup) ; cover the stewpun 
 close, and set it over a slow fire to stew 
 gently for an hour ; add a tea-cupful of bread 
 crumbs, and then rub it through a tamis in- 
 to another stewpan ; stir it with a wooden 
 spoon, and if it is too thick, add a little 
 more broth: have ready boiled as for eating, 
 a pint of young peas, and put them into the 
 soup ; season with a little salt and sugar. 
 
 Some cooks, while this soup is going on, 
 slice a couple of cucumbers (as you would 
 for eating) ; takeout the seeds; lay them 
 on a cloth to drain, and then flour them, 
 and fry them a light brown in a little but- 
 ter ; put them into the soup the last thing 
 before it goes to table. 
 
 If the soup is not green enough, pound a 
 handful of pea-hulls or spinage, and squeeze 
 the juice through a cloth into the soup: some 
 leaves of mint may be added, if approved. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN. (2) Put a 
 
 pint of old green peas into three quarts of 
 water, a slice of the crumb of bread, two 
 onions, a sprig of mint, some salt and pep- 
 |x.-r; Imil them till the peas are perfectly 
 soft, then pulp them through a sieve; have 
 ready two lettuces stewed tender in butter, 
 ami a pint and a half of young green peas 
 U)iled; put them into the soup with a little 
 spinach juice, and a quarter of a pint of 
 
 the juice of the youngest pea pods, and boil 
 it all together lx fore serving. 
 
 1'F.AS, GREEN, WITHOUT 
 
 MEAT. Take a quart of green peas (keep 
 out half a pint of the ynui^e>l; l,oil them 
 separately, and pit them in the soup when 
 it is finished); put them on in hailing \\ater; 
 boil them tender, anil t!i"ii pour o:i' the wa- 
 ter, and set it by t,. make the .-oiip w itl> : put 
 the pens into a mortar, and pound them to 
 a ma?h; tlie.i put them into two cjii;ats ( f 
 the water you boiled the peas in; stir all 
 well together; let it Ixiil up (or about fiu> 
 minutes, and then rub it through a hair sieve 
 or tiimis. If the peas are good, it will be 
 as thick and fine a vegetable soup as need 
 he sent tu table 
 
 PEAS, OLD. (1) Put a pound 
 
 and a half of split peas on in four quarts of 
 water, with roast beef or mutton lx>nes, and 
 a ham bone, two heads of celery, and four 
 onions, let them boil till the peas be suffi- 
 ciently soft to pulp through a sieve, strain it, 
 put it into tiie pot with pepper and salt, and 
 boil it nearly an hour. Two or three hand- 
 fuls of spinach, well washed and cut a litde, 
 added when (lie soup is strained, is a great 
 improvement ; and in the summer young 
 green peas in place of the spinach. A tea- 
 spoonful of celerv seed, or essence of celery, 
 if celery is not to be had. 
 
 PEAS, OLD. (2) Boil in five 
 
 quarts of water one quart of split peas, an 
 ounce of butter, four pounds of beef, two 
 carrots, three turnips, four heads of celery, 
 three onions, some salt and black pepper; 
 boil them till the |jeas are dissolved and 
 will easily pnlp, put it all through a sieve, 
 then put the soup over the lire with Uiree 
 ounces of butter and a table-spoonful of flour, 
 and boil a small bit of lean ham in it, till it 
 is time to serve; take it out lie(or<; dishing, 
 and have ready some celery stewed in butter, 
 and fried bread cut in dice, and dried mint 
 rubbed very fine, to send to table with it. 
 
 PEAS, OLD. (3) Boil in four 
 
 quarts of water a shank of ham, or a piece 
 of bacon, and almut half a pound of mutton, 
 or salt beef, and a pint of split peas; boil 
 all together very gently till the peas are 
 quite soft, strain them through a hair sieve, 
 and bruise them with the back of a spoon till 
 all is pulped through, then Ixiil the soup gent- 
 ly for one hour belore serving. Thin slices 
 of* bread toasted and cut in dice to be served 
 with it, either upon a dish or in the soup; 
 if in the soup, it should l>e fried in butter, 
 and dried mint rublied line and sent to table 
 in a small dish. It may lx: also made with 
 fourpeiice worth of bones, boiled for some
 
 SOUPS 
 
 211 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 hours in four quaits of water, with a carrot, 
 a head of celery, three onion?, some pepper 
 and salt, strained, anil the next day the fat 
 taken of]', :nnl the |x-a.s boiled in (lie liquor 
 with a little hit of butter, till sufficiently ten- 
 der to pulp through a sieve. 
 
 PEAS, PLAIN. To a quart 
 
 of split peas, and two bead:! of celery (and 
 most ciiuks wmilil put a large onion), put 
 three quart- of broth or soft water; Irt them 
 simmer gently on a trivet over a slow fire 
 for three, hum's, stirring up every quarter of 
 an hour to prevent the peas burning at the 
 bottom of the soii|>-kettle (if the water boils 
 away, and the soup gets too thick, add some 
 lx)iling water to it) ; when they are well sof- 
 tened, work them through a coarse sieve, 
 and then through a fine sieve or a tamis; 
 wa.-h o'lt your slewpan, and then return the 
 Soup into it, and give it a U.il up; take <>']' 
 any s-iiin that comes up, and it is ready. 
 Piv|>are fri-d bread, and dried mint, as di- 
 rected in Old Peas (2) and send them up 
 with it on two side dishes. 
 
 Obs. This is an excellent family soup, 
 produced with very little tumble or ex|x'iise. 
 
 I'Kil'.ON. (1) Have a strong beef 
 stock, highly seasoned, and if for rich soup, 
 take six or ei^ht pigeons according to their 
 si/j', wa.-h tli'-iu clean, cut off the necks, pin- 
 ions, livers and gi/.y.ards, and put them into 
 the stock; quarter the pigeons and brown 
 them nieelv; after having strained the stock, 
 
 put in the pig is; let them Ixiil till nearly 
 
 readv, which will ! in about half an hour, 
 then thi< l.en it with a little flour, robbed 
 down in a tea-cupful of the soup, season it 
 with half a "rated nuline,r. a t.iblt -s|>oiil'iil 
 of lemo'i jmee or of vinegar, and one of 
 mushroom ketchup; let it Ixiil a lew minutes 
 after all these ingredients are put in, nnd 
 serve it with the pig-ons in the tureen; a 
 better thickening than Hour is to lioil quite 
 tender two of the pigeon-, take off all the. 
 meat and pound it in a mortar, rub it through 
 a sie\r, and |xit it, with the cm 
 into the -trained soup. To make partridge 
 soup, partridfM mav IK- substituted for pig- 
 eons, when only four birds will be n-<itiiie.| ; 
 pound tlte breast of one. 
 
 PIGEON. (2) Take eight pig. 
 
 eons, cut down two of the oldest, anil put 
 them, with the necks, pinions, li\ei.-, .ml 
 gizzards of tin- oilier.*, into four quar- of 
 water; let it boil till the sulistance 
 teil, and strain it; .season the pigeons with 
 mixed spices and salt, and truss them as for 
 tewing; |iick and w>ish clean a handful of 
 panley, dims or young onions, a 1 
 
 deal of spinach ; chop them; |HII in a fivmj;- 
 ;> r: a ijii. uler of a pound of butler, and when 
 
 it boils, mix in a handful of bread crumbs, 
 keep stirring them with a knife till of a fine 
 brown; boil the whole pigeons till they be- 
 come tender in the stock with the herbs, and 
 fried bread. If the soup be not sufficiently 
 high seasoned, add more mixed spices and 
 salt. 
 
 PORTABLE. Put on, in four 
 
 gallons of water, ten pounds of a shin of 
 beef, free from fat and skin, six pounds of a 
 knuckle of veal, and two fowls, break the 
 bones and cut the meat into small pieces, 
 seaoii with one ounce of whole black pep- 
 per, quarter of an ounce of Jamaica pepper, 
 and tlie same of mace, cover the pot very 
 closely, and let it simmer for twelve or four- 
 ted, hours, and then strain it. The follow- 
 ing day, take off the fat, and clear the jelly 
 from any sediment adhering to it; boil it 
 gently U|x>n a stove, without covering the 
 saucepan, and stir it frequently till it be- 
 <->!!,,> very thick and in lumps about the pan. 
 Put it into saucers alxmt half full, and when 
 cold lay the cakes ii|xin llannel to dr\ Ix-lore 
 the tire or in the sun ; keep them in a tin 
 lx>x, with white pajx.T between each cake. 
 About an ounce weight will make a pint of 
 rich soup; pour boiling water ii|X)ii it with 
 a little salt, and stir it till it dissolves. It 
 also answers well for gravies and all brown 
 sauces. 
 
 FOR THE POOR. Wash an 
 
 ox-head very clean ; break the bones, and 
 cut the meat in pieces; put it on in thirteen 
 gallons of water, and a peck and a half of 
 potatoes, half a peck of turnips, the same 
 quantity of on ions, and some carrots; peel and 
 cut them all down. A handful of pot herbe, 
 and two quarts of oatmeal ; season with 
 pepper ami salt. Cover the pot closely, and 
 let it stew till the next morning; add as 
 i. inch hot water as ma\ ha\e wasted inboil* 
 inn, and let it stew for some hours longer, 
 w hen it will be fit for use. This soup will 
 be found very good for a family dinner. 
 
 QUEEX. Pound in a marblft 
 
 mortar the white meat of three cold roasted 
 low N, and half a pound of sweet almonds 
 blanched ; add a little cream whilst pound- 
 ing. Boil this with tour quarts of well-sea* 
 -oni-il beef stock, then strain it, and just 
 before serving stir in a pint of cream. 
 
 SANTE. (1) Peel four larga 
 
 onions, cut them -mall, with lour white let- 
 tuces, a handful of spinach, and a slice of 
 grated bread. Stew all these ingredient* 
 lor an hour in .1 quart of broth ami a quarter 
 
 1 of a pound of butler, then add three pints 
 I more of broth, nkirn off all the fat, and boil 
 I it a quarter of an hour, season ilh pepper
 
 SOUPS 
 
 212 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 and salt. Before serving, add half a pint 
 of good cream. A pint of green |>eas, ad- 
 ded will) the other vegetables, is a great im- 
 provement. 
 
 SANTE. (2) Lay six or eight 
 
 slices of lean ham, with some beef over them, 
 at the bottom of a stewpan, then some veal, 
 with some partridge-legs, or moor game, or 
 chicken, salt, peppercorns, Jamaica pepper, 
 three or four cloves, a bay-leaf, and one 
 clove of garlic: let the whole stew together 
 till it takes a fine brown color, then fill it up 
 with half water, and half good beef stock; 
 add three heads of celery, two good turnips, 
 parsley, lemon thyme, two carrots, three 
 large onions, and a small bunch of winter 
 savory; whoa the whole is thoroughly well 
 done, pass it through a lawn sieve into a ba- 
 sin. Cut two good-sized turnips and three j 
 large leeks, into pieces, about the thickness 
 of a cjuill, and an inch and a half long; fry 
 these together of a nice brown color: next, 
 shred two cabbage-lettuces, celery, endive, 
 sorrel, and chervil ; and stew them down on 
 a very slow fire with a small bit of butter. 
 When done, put them in a sieve with the 
 turnips; then put them into a soup-pot, and 
 pour the son)) from the basin over them; set j 
 it on a stove, skim it, and as soon as it boils, 
 set it on one side, and let it simmer for two 
 hours very gently; take the cmmb of a 
 couple of French rolls, and cut it into round 
 pieces, which brown in the oven, and put 
 them into the tureen, and pour the soup upon 
 them. If you think proper, it may be clari- 
 fied, the same as other clear soups; but the 
 ixr.il Soup de Sanfcoi'ght not to be clarified. 
 
 SIMPLE. Cut small one pound 
 
 of carrots, one pound of turnips, half a 
 pound of onions, one lettuce, a little celery, 
 and a handful of parsley; stew them for 
 twenty minutes with a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, some salt ami pepper; then put 
 them into three quarts of stock, made with 
 two pounds of veal, and add one quart of 
 green peas, and let it stew for three hours. 
 Press it through a sieve, and boil it up before 
 sending it to table. 
 
 SPRING. Put on in four quarts 
 
 of water a knuckle of veal cut down, and a 
 quarter of a pound of lean ham, or a gam- 
 mon of bacon; a quart of green split peas; 
 cut small three or four onions, three turnips, 
 a little parsley, thyme, celery, and one leek ; 
 stew them all together till the jieas are very 
 soft ; Like out the meat and press the re- 
 mainder through a fine sieve; season the 
 soup with pepper and salt. Cut small like 
 peas a bunch of the tops of asparagus, the 
 licarts of two or three cabbage*, cutting off 
 the top part and the outside leaves, and a 
 
 little green mint, stew them till tender, 
 keeping them of a good green, and add them 
 to the soup a quarter of an hour before serv- 
 ing. If it should not be green enough, 
 pound some spinach, squeeze the juice 
 through a cloth, put about a quarter of a 
 pint into the tureen, and pour in the soup. 
 This is the best method to make green peas 
 soup of a good color. 
 
 STOVE OR SPINACH. Boil 
 
 in two quarts of water three sliced onions. 
 Pick and clean as much spinach as will 
 make two large dishes, parboil and put it in 
 a cullender, to let the bitter water drip from 
 it ; let cold water run upon it for a minute 
 or two, and then press out the water. Knead 
 two ounces of fresh butter, wilh a table- 
 spoonful and a half of flour, mix it with the 
 spinach, which boil for fifteen minutes in the 
 water and onions, then put in half a pint of 
 cream or good milk, some salt and pepper, 
 boil it for fifteen minutes more. In the 
 season of green pens, a quart added with 
 the spinach is a great improvement. It is 
 common to boil a lamb's head and pluck 
 with tin; *'x'\i, and send them to table in the 
 tureen. The soup is then called Lamb's 
 .Stove; but wilh the peas it is quite as good 
 without. 
 
 VEGETABLE. Pare and cut 
 
 small one dozen of common-sized onions, 
 five large yellow turnips, two heads of celery, 
 and the red part of three large carrots ; wash 
 and put them in a stewpan with two ounces 
 of butler, cover it closely; and when the 
 vegetables are a little soft, add to them four 
 quarts of well-seasoned gravy soup ma.-ie of 
 roast beef bones, and let it slew four or five 
 hours; rub it through a tammy, put it on the 
 fire, boil and skim it before serving. 
 
 WINTER VEGETABLE. (1) 
 
 Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes, 
 and four turnips ; fry them in half a pound of 
 butter or very fresh dripping; toast a crust 
 of bread brown and hard, put it, with two or 
 three heads of celery cut small, some herbs, 
 pepper, and salt, with the frhd vc<;ei:ible>-, 
 into five pints of water, to stew jiivitiy fa- 
 four hours, then strain it through a sieve, 
 add a little carrot and celery cut small, and 
 some chopped jwrsley, one anchovy or a red 
 hen-ing, and a little cayenne; boil it till the 
 vegetables are tender. 
 
 WINTER VEGETABLE. (2) 
 
 To every gallon of water allow, when cut 
 down small, a quart of the following vegeta- 
 bles ; equal quantities of turnips, carrots, and 
 potatoes, three onions, two heads of celery, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs; fry them br>>wn 
 in a quarter of a pound of butter, add the
 
 SOUPS 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 cut up in pieces, may be used instead of the 
 chickens. 
 
 water with suit and pepper, and boil it till A cow-heel that has been previously boiled, 
 reduced to three qnarte, and serve it with 
 fried toasted bread. 
 
 VENISON. Boil down in five 
 
 quarts of water two pounds of a shank of 
 veal, or fowl, and live pounds of the breast 
 of \riii.-on cut small; two or three onions 
 chop|x'J, some uh,>!e white |>cp|>er and salt, 
 with a quarter of a pound of lean hum. 
 Let it stew til! it br completely lulled down, 
 when all the Mrcngth will IK: extracted; rub 
 it through a -ieve, thicken it with a little 
 butter, kneaded in tluur, and add a pint of 
 Madeira, and boil it for a quarter of an 
 hour or twenty minutes. 
 
 BROWN VENISON. Cut in 
 
 small pieces sik or seven pounds of the 
 
 breast of venison, put it in a stewpan with 
 two or three unices of butter; cover it 
 closely, stir it once or twice, and let it stew 
 an hour. .Mix four quarts of cold water 
 with a pint and a half of tin: blood, put it 
 on the lire in another .-lew pun, and stir it 
 constantly till it Ixjil; tlu-n add the stew to 
 it with an union minced small, and a whole 
 carrot, some salt, black and Jamaica pep- 
 per. If the meat l>e \onng, let it boil gent- 
 ly for two hums; if old, two and a half will 
 be necessary. A little before sen ing, take 
 out die carrot and ull the bones, leaving a 
 little of tin- meat; mix in half a pint of 
 Port wine, and let it boil a short time. It 
 may be thickened with a little flour and 
 batter. 
 
 VERMICELLI. The day lie- 
 tore it is require I make tour (marts of good 
 Mock, and lnii in it one carrot, one turnip, 
 four onion.-, one or two jiarsley roots, three 
 blades ol :>d some w hite pepper j 
 strain it, and, U-i'.ie u.-in^, take oil' all the 
 fat; Ixiil in somt: of tilt liquor the cnimli of 
 three French rolls till soft enough to ma.-h 
 gmooth; boil the - "'|> and stir well in the 
 mashed rolls; lioil it fur a quarter of an 
 hour, an _:. add the yolks of 
 two eggs beaten with three i.ilile-spoonfuls 
 : Uiil in water two or three ounces 
 of \ermii .Hi lor lilut-n or twenty minutes, 
 .-train and [Hit it into the tureen, and pour 
 the soup upon it. 
 
 WHITE. (1) Boil together a 
 
 knuckle of ve.il, a fowl, or two chickens 
 skinned, a carrot, a turnip, , in onion, some 
 salt, and a little whole white pepper; tike 
 out I he (h:ckeiis ulicn tender, cut (hern ill 
 joint-, and add llvm to the soup when 
 Ktraini <:. 1 ,: up the \olks of nine eggs, mix 
 diem w ilii a pint ol'cieam .nut a table-spoon- 
 ful of wi il-i-.ii--.! il'c; siir it giudnally into 
 the soup, and lieat it gently before serving. 
 
 WHITE. (2) Take a good 
 
 knuckle of veal, or two or three short skmks, 
 I* >il it alxnit four hours, with some whole 
 white pepper, a little mace, salt, two onions, 
 and a small bit of lean ham; strain it, and 
 when cold take off all the fat and sediment ; 
 beat up six yolks of eggs and mix them with 
 a pint of good cream, then pour the boiling 
 soup upon it by degrees, stirring it well, 
 and if it is liked, add the best part of the 
 gristles. 
 
 WHITE. (3) Put on in four 
 
 quarts of water, a knuckle of veal, six pounds 
 weight, a quarter of a pound of lean ham or 
 bacon, two slices of the crumb of bread, one 
 ounce of blanched sweet almonds, put in 
 whole; six middling-sized onions, two heads 
 of celery, some whole white pepper, three 
 blades of mace, a bunch of (xnsley, and a 
 sprig of thyme; stew all these gently for 
 ei-ln hours, strain it, and when cold take 
 off all the fat ; boil it, and just before serv- 
 ing, take it off die fire, and stir in very 
 gradually a pint of thick cream. 
 
 WHITE. (4) Boil in four 
 
 quarts of water four |>oimds of veal, and a 
 fowl, with some whole white pepper, a little 
 mace, and three middliug--i/.ed onions whole, 
 and a bunch of parsley; let it I 'oil three 
 hours, strain it, and put it on again to get 
 quite hot, and just liefore serving, stir in 
 gradually half a pint of cream with the yolks 
 c.f three eggs well beaten. Do not kt it boilj 
 as that makes the eggs curdle. 
 
 WHITE. (5) Stew in three quarts 
 
 of Ixjiling water, till quite tender, a knuckle 
 of \eal, with a quarter of a jKiund of whole 
 rice, three whole onions, a bunch of parsley, 
 a little sweet marjoram, and two or three 
 blades of mace, and some salt ; a little before 
 ili" soup is -li a hied, add two anchovies; 
 strain through a hair sieve and Uien through 
 a silk one, or tammy, put it again upon the 
 fire, and stir in lialf a pint of rich cream, or 
 a pint of milk with the yolks of two eggs 
 beat up in it; let it be hot but not boiling. 
 If it is required to be richer, boil a fowl in 
 the stock , w i i h t wo ounces of pounded blanch- 
 ed sweet almonds. 
 
 WHITE. (6) Put on in five 
 
 quarts of water, four pounds of a shank of 
 >eal, break the DOM well, let it simmer till 
 it be reduced nearly half; boil a tea-cupful 
 
 of whole i ice till very lender, pulp it through 
 a cullender, strain the liquor, ami add tho 
 rice, season w ith salt and white pepper, let
 
 SPA 
 
 214 
 
 it nirnmer for nearly an hour, and add, a 
 little before serving, six yolks of eggs beaten 
 extremely well. 
 
 SOUR KROUT. The best cabbage for 
 this purpose is the drum, or while Stras- 
 burgli, and it should not be used till it has 
 endured some severe frost ; the stocks are 
 then cut into halves, and shred down as fine 
 as possible with a knife, or more properly 
 with a plane maiie in the fi inn of a cucumber 
 slice. Hum :i little juniper in a cask or tub 
 which is perfectly sound and clean, and put 
 a little leaven into the seam round the bot- 
 tom, flour and vinegar may lie substituted 
 for ftie leaven; then put in three or four 
 bandittis of cabbage, a good sprinkling of 
 salt, and a tea -spoonful of caraway seed, and 
 press (his hard with a wooden mallet; next 
 add another layer of cabbage, with salt and 
 caraway seed, as at first; and soon in the 
 same manner until the cask be full, pressing 
 down each layer (irmly as, you advance. A 
 good deal of water will come to the top, of 
 which a part may be taken off. The cask 
 being full, put on the head so as to press 
 ujion the cabbage, and place it in a warm 
 cellar to ferment; when it has worked well 
 for three weeks, take off' the scum which 
 will have gathered on the top, and lay a 
 clean cloth on the krout ; replace the head, 
 and put Iwo or three heavy stones upon it. 
 The juice should always Maud upon the top. 
 Thus in a good cellar it will keep for years. 
 When to l>e dressed, it is boiled for five or 
 six hours in water, or stewed with a little 
 gravy, and may lx also substituted for a 
 crust over a l>eef-steak pie, when cheese is 
 grated over it. 
 
 SOUR KROUT WITH PIKE. When 
 the krout is boiled, clean a large pike, 
 scrape and cut it into neat pieces, dip them 
 into the beaten yolk of an egg, then into 
 bread crumbs, and fry them of a nice brown ; 
 rub some butter upon a dish, and put into 
 it a layer of krout, and some grated cheese, 
 then a layer of pike, and a little sour cream ; 
 then krout, and so on till the dish be full. 
 On the top put some bits of butter, and 
 some good broth or gravy; strew crumbs 
 of bread thickly over it, and bake it half 
 an hour. 
 
 SPANISH PUFFS. Put into a sauce- 
 pan, half a pint of water and a quarter of 
 a pound of butter; stir it till it boils, and 
 mix in four table-spoonfuls of Hour; stir it 
 well together, and add six yolks and four 
 whiles of eggs, two at a time; let it cool, 
 and, with a dessert-spoon, drop it into (wil- 
 ing clarified dripping or lard. 
 
 To make ginger puffs, a tea-spoonful of 
 pounded ginger may be added. 
 
 SPARE RIB ROASTED. Set Pork. 
 
 SPICE FOR WHITE SAUCE. Pound 
 
 two ounces of pepper, a quarter of an ounce 
 of mace, grate one nutmeg, and the peel of 
 one lemon; mix all together in a bottle. 
 
 SPICE FOR GENERAL USE. One 
 
 ounce and a half of pepper, cinnamon, nut- 
 meg, and ginger, half an ounce each, and 
 eight cloves; pound and mix all together in 
 a bottle. A little of each kind of spice 
 should be well dried, pounded, and kept 
 separately in small bottles, which should be 
 labelled. 
 
 SPINACH, TO DRESS. Pick the 
 spinach with great care; strip the leaves 
 from the stalks, and wash it in several wa- 
 ters, till perfectly clean ; boil the spinach in 
 salt and water; drain it well; pound it in 
 a mortar, and put it into a slewpan with a 
 little butter and broth, and let it stew over 
 a slow fire for three-quarters of an hour, till 
 it be very dry ; then add a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter, with salt and grated 
 nutmeg; work the spinach well, till it is 
 thick, but take care the butler does not 
 turn to oil. Garnish with fried toasU of 
 bread, which may lie cut like cock's combs, 
 or in any other form. 
 
 SPINACH, TO BOIL. (1) Pick it very 
 carefully, and wash it thoroughly two or 
 three times in plenty of cold water, then put 
 it on in boiling water with a little salt; let 
 it boil nearly twenty minutes, put it into a 
 cullender, hold it under the water cock, and 
 let the water run on it for a minute ; put it 
 into a saucepan, beat it perfectly smooth 
 with a beater or with a wooden spoon, add 
 a bit of butter, and three table-spoonfuls of 
 cream; mix it well together, and make it 
 hot liefore sen-ing. When dished, it is 
 scored in squares with the back of a knife. 
 
 SPINACH, TO BOIL. (2) After 
 being nicely picked and well washed, put it 
 into a saucepan, with no more water than 
 adheres to it; add a little salt; cover the 
 pan closely, and boil it till tender, frequent- 
 ly shaking it; beat it quite smooth, adding 
 butter and cream, and make it quite hot. 
 Spinach may be served with poaclied eggs, 
 or fried sausages laid on it. 
 
 When the spinach is bitter, it is prefera- 
 ble to boil it in water. 
 
 SPINACH TOASTS. Boil some spi- 
 nach for a quarter of an hour ; then squeeze 
 out all the water, chop it small, and put it 
 into a mortar, with three or four spoonfuls 
 of apple marmalade, the yolks of four hard- 
 boiled, and three raw eggs, two biscuits
 
 SP R 
 
 215 
 
 STO 
 
 oaked in cream, sugar, and a pinch of salt; 
 pound all these together to a paste, put it 
 into a dish, an I mix with it a few dry cur- 
 rant;", and three or four spoonfuls of melted 
 butter. Cut some slices of bread half an 
 inch thirk, four indies long, and two broad; 
 toast them nicely, and spread the spinach, 
 &c. over them, to the tliickiifss of half an 
 inch, wash each over with white of egg; 
 place the toasts on a baking-tin (well butter- 
 ed) and bake them for half an hour. \Vhun 
 done, grate nutmeg, and squeeze orange-juice 
 over theni, and serve. 
 
 SPRATS, TO BAKE. Clean them; 
 take off the heads; put them into a deep 
 dish, and oner them with vine-jar and wa- 
 ter, equal quantities of each. To a quart of 
 liquid, pit half an ounce of whole black pep- 
 per, a litileallspire, two or three bay-leaves, 
 Borne salt, and an onion. Tie paper over 
 the dish, and bake them in a cool oven, or 
 do them over a slow lire in a water bath. 
 Hermits may IK; done in this way. Both 
 will keep good some weeks. 
 
 SPRATS, STEWED. Wash and dry 
 your sprats, and lay them as level as you 
 can in a Mcwpan, and ln-twcen every layer 
 of sprats put three peppercorns, and as many 
 allspice, with a few grains of salt; barely 
 cover them with vinegar, and stew them one 
 hour over a slow fire; they must not boil: 
 a bay-leaf is sometimes added. Herrings or 
 mackerel may be stewed the same way. 
 
 SPRATS, BROILED. If you have not 
 a sprat gridiron, gel a pi<.-ce of pointed iron 
 wire as thick as packthread, and as long as 
 your gridiron is broad; run this through the 
 heads of your sprats, sprinkle a little flour 
 and silt over them, put your gridiron over a 
 clear, quick lire, turn them in about a couple 
 of minutes; when the other side is brown, 
 draw out tlie wire, nnd send up the fi.-h v\ ith 
 melted butter in a cup. 
 
 Obs. That sprats are young herrings, is 
 evident by tlwir anatomy, in which there is 
 no perceptible difference. They ap[jear very 
 soon after the lien ins are gone, and seem 
 to be the spawn jn>t vivified. 
 
 SI'KIMJ FRUIT A Mock Goose- 
 berry Sauce for Mackerel, fyc. Make a 
 
 maim.ilade of llm-e do/j-n Micks ,,f rhllUul), 
 weetened with inoi.-t .-u_;ar ; (KISS it through 
 a hair -!.',. and serve up in a sauce-boat. 
 
 SI'KINC, FRUIT TART. Prepare 
 
 rhubaib as above: cut it into small pieces 
 into a iaii-'ii>h; swi-rten uiili lo.if-sugar 
 pounded; cover it with a good -hoi t crust 
 paste; sift a litilu .-.ugar over UK top, and 
 
 bake half an hour in a rather hot oven ; serve 
 up cold. 
 
 SPRING CREAM, or Mock Goose- 
 berry Fool. Prepare a marmalade aa di- 
 rected for the pudding: to which add a pint 
 of good thick cream; serve up in glasses, or 
 in a deep dish. If wanted in a ,-liape, dis- 
 MiUe two ounces of isinglass in a little water; 
 strain it through a tamis, and when nearly 
 cold put it to tlie cream ; pour it into a jelly 
 mould, and when set, turn out into a dish, 
 and serve up plain. 
 
 SPRING FRUIT SHERBET. Boil 
 
 six or eight sticks of rhubarb (quite clean) 
 ten minutes in a quart of water; strain the 
 liquor through a tamis into a jug,, with the 
 peel of a lemon cut very thin, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of clarified sugar; let it stand five 
 or six hours, and it is fit to drink. 
 
 SPRUCE BEER. See Beer. 
 
 SPROUTS AND YOUNG GREENS. 
 
 The receipt for cabbages will answer as well 
 for sprouts, only they will be boiled enough 
 in fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 STEAKS OR CHOPS. See Chopt. 
 
 STOCK, FOR BROWN OR WHITE 
 SOUPS. Take a pound of scale, five floun- 
 ders, and two pounds of eels ; cul them in 
 pieces, pul them into a stewpan, with aa 
 much water as will cover them, a little mace, 
 an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, 
 two parsley roots sliced, some pepper and 
 salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cover 
 close ; strain it off for use ; if it is for brown 
 soup, fry the fish brown iu butter, and then 
 put it to stew. 
 
 STOCK, FOR GRAVY SOUP OR 
 GRAVY. Cut a knuckle of veal into sli- 
 ces, slice also a pound of lean beef, and a 
 pound of the lean of gammon of bacon ; pt 
 these into a stewpan, with three scraped 
 carrots, a couple of onions, a couple of tur- 
 nips, two licads of celery, and two quart* 
 of water. Let the meat stew till quite ten- 
 der, but it must not lie brown. When thus 
 prepared it will serve eillicr for soup, or 
 brown or white gravy ; if for brown gravy, 
 it must be first colored in the usual manner. 
 
 STOMACHIC TINCTURE. Peruvian 
 bark, bruised, one ounce and a half, orange- 
 peel, do. one ounce, brandy, or proof spirit, 
 one pint. Let tliese ingredients steep for 
 ten days, shaking the bottle every day; let 
 i in qnict two days, and then decant 
 ibc clear liquor. Dotte a tea-spoonful in
 
 STR 
 
 216 
 
 STU 
 
 a wine-glass of water, twice a day, when 
 you feel languid, i. e. when the stomach is 
 empty, about an hour before dinner, and in 
 the evening. This agreeable aromatic tonic 
 is an effective help to concoction ; and we 
 are under personal obligations to it, for fre- 
 quently restoring our stomach to good tern- j 
 per, and procuring us good appetite and good j 
 digestion. In low nervous affections arising 
 from a languid circulation, and when the j 
 stomach is in a state of debility from age, j 
 intemperance, or other causes, this is a most 
 acceptable restorative. 
 
 N. B. Tea made with dried and braised 
 orange-peel, in the same way as common 
 tea, and drank with milk and sugar, has 
 been taken by nervous and dyspeptic per- 
 sons with great benefit. Sucking a bit of 
 dried orange-peel about an hour l>efore din- 
 ner, when the stomach is empty, is very 
 grateful and strengthening to it. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CREAM. Put six 
 ounces of straw tarry jam to a pint of cream, 
 pulp it through a sieve; add to it the juice 
 of a lemon, whisk it fast at the edge of a 
 dish, lay the froth on a sieve, add a little 
 more juice of lemon, and when no more froth 
 will rise, put the cream into a dish, or into 
 glasses; and place the froth upon it, well 
 drained. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES AND RASPBER- 
 RIES. From either of these fruits agree- 
 able wine may be obtained, by following the 
 rules given for making currant wine; but it 
 will be found a cheaper and a better meth- 
 od, to add a little sirup or juice of the fruit 
 to any flavorless currant wine; when the 
 fermentation begins to decline, currant wine 
 may also be flavored with odoriferous flow- 
 ers, such aa cowslip, elder, or mignionette. 
 The quality of roughness is communicated 
 by catechu and keno, chips of oak and of 
 beech, and also the sloe; a small quantity 
 of these, or of the flowers, is put into the 
 cask when the first fermentation is over, and 
 as soon a? the wine has acquired the desired 
 flavor, it is racked and fined. The flavor- 
 ing articles, such as orris-root, cloves, gin- 
 ger, sweet and bitter almonds, are put into 
 a muslin l>ag, and hung in the cask for a 
 few days, during the stage of insensible fer- 
 mentation, that is, after the first fermentation 
 has ceased; care being taken to tuste the 
 liquor frequently, so that the flavoring mat- 
 ter may be withdrawn as soon as it has pro- 
 duced the desired effect. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES, POUNDED, FOR 
 STRAWBERRY CREAM. Take equal 
 weight of sugar and of strawberries ; pound 
 and sift the sugar, add it to the stra \vU-rries, 
 and pound them in a marble mortar till per- 
 
 fectly smooth. Put it into jars, and tie 
 them over closely with paper. It will keep 
 good for several months. 
 
 STRAWBERRY SOUFFLE. Take 
 
 a basket of very fine strawl>erries, pick, and 
 crush them, and then rub them through a 
 sieve. Whisk the whites of eighteen eggs 
 to a firm froth, to which add a pound and a 
 half of powder sugar, stir them together as 
 lightly as possible ; then mix them with the 
 strawberries. I'our the whole into a crotu- 
 tade, and bake it for an hour in a moderate 
 oven ; when done, glaze it, and serve. 
 
 STRAWBERRY TART. Pick, and 
 put into a basin two quarts of the best scar- 
 let strawberries, then add to them half a 
 pint of cold thick clarified sugar, and half 
 a pint of Madeira, with the juice of two or 
 three lemons; mix these \\i-ll together, with- 
 out breaking the strawberries, and put them 
 into a puff paste, previously baked; lie care- 
 ful to keep them very cool. 
 
 STRING BEANS. See French Beans. 
 
 STUFFING WITHOUT MEAT. Sea- 
 son a quarter of a pound of finely-minced 
 beef suet, and an equal quantity of grated 
 bread, with grated nutmeg, lemon-peer, lem- 
 on thyme, and parsley, salt, and pepper; 
 mix it well together, and bind it with a 
 weft-beaten yolk of an e%, when it may be 
 used for stuffing veal and fowl. 
 
 STUFFING FOR TURKEY OR 
 FOWL. Wash a quart of oysters in their 
 own liquor, strain it, and put into it the 
 oysters, with a little mace, whole pepper, 
 and lemon-peel; when parboiled, chop small 
 a dozen and a half, add an equal weight of 
 grated bread, twice the quantity of finelv- 
 minced beef suet, the yolks of three hard- 
 boiled eggs, one anchovy, a little salt, ]>e|>- 
 |>er, nutmeg, lemon-peel, and some minced 
 parsley; bind it will) the beaten yolks of 
 two eggs. For tire sauce, lxil with the 
 liquor of the oysters, a pint of white stock, 
 half a pint of white wine, one am-hovy, 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg; strain it, and 
 add a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
 flour, beat it up with the remainder of the 
 oysters. 
 
 STUFFING FOR A HARE. Parboil 
 the liver, and mince it; add an equal quan- 
 tity of grated bread, double the quantity of 
 fat bacon chopped, a bit of butter the size 
 of a walnut. Season with pepper, salt, nut- 
 meg, chopped lemon thyme, and parsley; 
 bind with an egg beaten. 
 
 STUFFING FOR VEAL, ROAST
 
 STU 
 
 217 
 
 SUG 
 
 TURKEY, FOWL, &c. Mim-e a quarter 
 of a pound of beef .suet (beef inaiTinv is U-t- 
 ter), the same weight of bread cruml>s, two 
 drachms of parsley leaves, a dia. -Inn ami a 
 half of sweet marjoram or lemon thyme, and 
 the same of grated leinon-|M-el and onion 
 chopped as fine as possible, u little |*-p|>er 
 and salt; pound thoroughly togi-tln-r with tin- 
 yolk and white of two e^, an '. 
 In tin- ve.il with ,i skewer, or sew it in with 
 a bit of thread. Make some of it into Iwlls 
 JBB; tlur them, and boil, or fry 
 them, and send them ii|) as a varnish, or in 
 a side dish, with roast poultry, veal, or cut- 
 lets, cc. 
 
 .V I!. This is about (lie quantity for a 
 turkey poult: u vei-y large turkey will take 
 nearly twice as much. To I IIP above may 
 be add'-d an ounce of dressed h.tin ; or use 
 equal |>ai ts of the alx>\e slutting and pork 
 sausage meat pounded well together. 
 
 Obs. flood .tnlfing has always liei-n con- 
 sidered a chii-f thing in cookery: it has given 
 immortality to 
 
 "Pnor K>:rr fiitalt r,who '(I ;i ei-nemns niiiid, 
 Ni>r vMiu'cl siiti-nit to have Ins hand i entiii'd, 
 But a line 1 at nil, vet never could excel 
 In any tiring hut fluffing o( Ins veal." 
 
 STI FFI.M; FOUHAUE. TWO oun- 
 ces of Ijeef suet fhop|N-d line; three ounces 
 of 6ue .bread crumbs ; parsley, a drachm; 
 eschalot, half a drachiii; a drachm of mar- 
 joram, lemon thyme, or winter savory; a 
 drachm of |TMH lemon-peel, and the .-,ime 
 of pepper an<l salt: mix MH with the white 
 and yolk of an e_'i; ; do not make it thin 
 it mu.-l IN- nf enhe>i\e i-oiiMslence : if your 
 smiting is not .-tilt enoii^li. it will fie good 
 for no'hing: put it in the hare, and sew it 
 up. If the liur is <|nite - u i.l. you may 
 p:iil'il it, and mine- it very fine, and add 
 It to the all. in-. 
 
 STI.'KGEON, BAKED. Clean, and 
 
 take tin- >kin from a small sturgeon; split it 
 along the Ix-lly, without M-paraling it. Lay- 
 it in a Luge hakini; dish, season it With 
 all, pepper, pounded sweet herli>; moisten 
 will) oil, lemon-juice, and a U.ltle of while 
 wine. I'm it in tlK- OM-II, haste ii frequent- 
 ly; nuike it a nice color, and serve it with 
 its own gravy. 
 
 STI IKiKO.N, Fltl.SII. TO UUOII.. 
 Cut it into cutlets; rub them with the yolk 
 of Ml esfu lieal up; siren tliem over ivi'li 
 one parsley, iMpeed very tine, ami mixed 
 i-d bread crumlis, p.epper. 
 into piece* of white p.i[-r Ixitteied, 
 i geiuU. Sauces; oyster, 
 melted butlei , and .n 
 
 STURUE(J.N , KIIESH. Tlie best mode 
 19 
 
 of dressing this, is to have it cut in thin 
 
 slices like veal cutlets, and broiled, and rob- 
 bed over with a bit of iMitter ami a little 
 |X'p|jer, and served very hot, and eaten with 
 a squeeze of lemon-juice, (ii cat care, how- 
 ever, must be taken to cut off the skin be- 
 fore it is broiled, as the oil in the skin, if 
 burned, imparts a disgusting flavor to the 
 fish. The tlesh is very fine, and comets 
 nearer to veal, perhaps, than even turtle. 
 Siurgeon is frequently plentiful and reason- 
 j able in the London shops. We prefer this 
 mode of dressing it to llie more savory one 
 of .-teiviujf it in rich gravy, like caip, he. 
 which overpowers the peculiar flavor of the 
 fish. 
 
 STURGEON, ROASTED. Take a 
 
 large piece of sturgeon, or a whole small 
 one. clean and skin it projierly; lard it with 
 eel and anchovies, and marinade, it in a 
 white wine marinade. Fasten it to the 
 spit, ami roast it, basting frequently with 
 the marinade strained. 1/et the fish be a 
 nice color, and serve with a jiepper sauce. 
 
 BUI T TO KEEP FOR A TWELVE- 
 
 .MO.Yl'H. Choose tlie firmest part, and 
 pick it free from skin and veins. Put it 
 epaii, and set it at some distance 
 from the lire, in order that the suet may 
 melt without (Vying, or it will taste disagree- 
 able. Win- i it is .'iieh. -d. pour it into u pan 
 of cold watei. Whin il has caked quite 
 hard, wij* it verv dry, f.-ld it in fine paper, 
 and then in a linen bag, and keep it in a 
 dry, but not in a ho! pla.-e. Win n you wish 
 to i-.- ii. -.-tape it fine, and it will make a 
 -'. either with or without butter. 
 
 SIT.T MILK. Cut into very ctnai 
 shav ings one ounce of fn-.-li I eef suet ; die- 
 s.'ive il slowly over the lire in one pint of 
 milk, together with a bit of k-mon-peel and 
 cinnamon; sweeten with pounded loaf sugar. 
 
 SfF.T 1)1 Ml'I.INCS. This batter 
 should U- made the same as for suet ptid- 
 ding, (H-.-ond receipt), but much thicker, let 
 your cloth be wetted, shake it ;>ll over with 
 ! Hour, and tie up in several parts of the cloth, 
 as much as it will hold, two or three spoon- 
 fuls uf batter. Or you may make (lie batter 
 as usual, and [Hit it in tea-cups, well butter- 
 ed; tie them in clodis, and lioil an hour. 
 
 STCAR, TO CLARIFY. T,. 
 
 thn-- |mnds of loaf sugar, all iw tlie beaten 
 
 : a pint and a half of 
 
 water; break the sugar small, put it into a 
 
 .nod braes pan, and pour the water 
 over it; let it stand sometime In-fore it be 
 put upon the tire ; then add the Ix-aten white* 
 
 ^s; f tir it till the sugar be entirely
 
 SWE 
 
 218 
 
 SWE 
 
 dissolved, and when it boiU up, pour in a 
 quarter of a pint of cold water; let it boil 
 ip a second time; take it offtlie fire and let 
 it settle for fifteen minutes; carefully take 
 off all the scum ; put it on the fire, and boil 
 it till sufficiently thick, or if required, till 
 candy high; in order to ascertain which, 
 drop a little from a spoon into a small jar 
 of cold water, and if it become quite hard, 
 it is then sufficiently done; or dip (he thevil 
 into the sugar, plunge it into cold water, 
 draw off the sugar which adheres to the 
 stick, and if it be hard and snaps, the fruit 
 to be preserved must be instantly put in and 
 boiled. 
 
 SUGAR ORNAMENTS. 
 
 am.fl. 
 
 See Car- 
 
 SUGAR RUFFS. A pound of pounded 
 and sifted loaf sugar beaten well with the 
 whites of three eggs, and flavored with oil 
 of cinnamon, lemons, or orange-flower wa- 
 ter, and baked in the same way as the 
 meringues, served in a napkin, or used to 
 garnish dishes of preserves. 
 
 SUGAR, TO BOIL. To even pound 
 of sugar allow half a pint of water; stir it 
 over the fire till the sugar be entirely dissolv- 
 ed; when it first boils up, pour in a little 
 cold water, and when it boils a second lime, 
 take it off the fire; let it settle ten minutes, 
 carefully scum it, and boil it for half an hour 
 or a little longer, and then put in the fruit. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, ITALIAN ATTE- 
 LETS. Blanch some nice sweetbreads, and 
 stew them in a well-seasoned gravy, made 
 of meat, and vegetables; when cold, cut 
 them into pieces of nearly an inch square, 
 put them into a sauce d'atteleU, and let 
 them cool. With silver skewers, skewer 
 the sweetbreads, and a bit of ready-dressed 
 calf's udder alternately ; make them all as 
 much as possible of an equal size, and of a 
 square form. Moisten them with the sauce, 
 and cover them with grated bread, then 
 dip them into four well beaten eggs, strew 
 over them some more grated bread, and 
 level it with a knife; fry them of a fine 
 brown, and serve with an Italian sauce, 
 white or brown. 
 
 If the attelets are ready before they are 
 required to be fried, strew grated bread 
 over the cover of a stewpan, and lay them 
 upon it. 
 
 SWEETBREAD, TO BOIL. Parboil 
 it, rub it with butter, and broil it over a 
 slow fire, turn it frequently, and baste it 
 now and then, by putting it upon a plate 
 kept warm by the fire with butter in it. 
 
 SWEETBREADS A LA DACPHISK. 
 
 If for a round dish, take four large and fine 
 sweetbreads. If for a long dish, three will 
 suffice. Pure off the fat and sinews, and 
 blanch them in warm water, parboil them, 
 and when cold, lard them. Rub a stew- 
 I'an with fresh butter, and put into it a few 
 sliced carrots and onions, then a layer of 
 slices of fat bacon, place the sweetbreads 
 upon the bacon, sprinkle a little salt over 
 them, and stew them u ill) a great deal of 
 fire on the top, and a very slow one be- 
 neath ; when thev are nicely browned, cover 
 them with a piece of buttered paper, cut 
 round, and lessen the fire upon the top. 
 They will require to stew for three-quarters 
 of an hour, then drain and put them into a 
 pan with some glaze, and the bacon under- 
 neath. Leave them in the glaze till dinner 
 time. 
 
 SWEETBREADS FULL DRESSED. 
 
 Parboil them, and let them get cold; then 
 cut them in pieces, about three-quarters of an 
 inch thic-k ; dip them in the yolk of an egg, 
 then in fine bread crumbs (some add spice, 
 lemon-peel, and sweet herbs) ; put some 
 clean dripping into a fi vintj-pan: when it 
 boils, put in the sweetbreads, and fry them 
 a fine brown. For garnish, crisp parsley 
 and for sauce, mushroom ketchup and melted 
 butter, or anchovy sauce, or bacon or ham. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, SMALL CASES 
 
 OF SCOLLOPS OF. Blanch and parboil 
 Mime sweetbreads, cut them into small scol-' 
 ! -. Then chop separately, and finely, half 
 a pint of mushrooms, a little parsley, and 
 four or five shallots, add a little fat bacon 
 rasped, and a piece of fresh butter; season 
 the scollops with pepper, salt, and a little 
 marc, strw it all together over a slow fire; 
 when done, drain off the fat, place the scol- 
 lops in small paper cases, which have been 
 fried in olive oil, cover them with plenty of 
 finely-chopped herbs, and strew over them 
 fried bread crumbs; lay the paper cases for 
 a moment into the oven, and before serving, 
 pour into each a little rich gravy, and a little 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 SWEET HERBS. See Herbs. 
 
 SWEETMEAT FRITTERS. Cut 
 
 small any sort of candied fruit, and heat it 
 with a bit of fresh butter, some good milk, 
 and a little grated lemon-peel ; when quite 
 hot, stir in enough of flour to make it into a 
 stiff paste, take it off the fire, and work in 
 eight, or ten eggs, two at a time; when 
 cold, form the fritters, and fry, and serve 
 them with pounded loaf sugar strewed over 
 them.
 
 S YL 
 
 219 
 
 TAR 
 
 SYLLABUBS. Take the juice of a 
 large lemon, the peel (pared very tliin), a 
 glass of brandy, two of white wine, and a 
 quarter of a pound of pdwdtr-eugar; put 
 these ingredients into a pan, and lease them ; 
 the next day, add a pint of thick cream, and 
 the whites of two eggs; whip the whole 
 well, and pour the syllabub into glasses. 
 They arc the better for keeping a day or 
 two. If the syllabubs are not wanted quite 
 so good as the above, raisin or mountain 
 wine will do as well as brandy. 
 
 SYLLABUB, SOMERSETSHIRE. Put 
 a pint of Port, and a pint of Sherry, or 
 any other white wine, into a large bowl, 
 sweeten it according to taste ; milk die bowl 
 full; in about twenty minutes' time, cover 
 it tolerably high with clouted cream; grate 
 nutmeg over it ; add pounded cinnamon, and 
 nonpareils. 
 
 SYLLABUB, STAFFORDSHIRE. Put 
 a pint of cider, a glass of brandy, sugar, and 
 nutmeg, into a bowl, and milk into it; or 
 |i"iu warm milk from a large tea-pot some 
 height into it. 
 
 SYLLABUB. (1) One pound of ratafia 
 cakes pounded anil steeped in two bottles 
 of Port wine, one of claret, and one of 
 brandy, the grated peel and juice of two 
 lemons, one large nutmeg grated, and two 
 ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and 
 pounded will) a little rose-water, and pound- 
 ed sugar sufficient to make it sneet 1'ut 
 all the:*' ingredients, well mixed, into a 
 large China Bow^orhowbof an n]iia! sixe. 
 and let the milk of a good cow Ixj milked 
 U|H>n tlicm ; add a little rich CUMIN :nul .-i ti- 
 ed loaf sugar, and cover it to keep it warm. 
 It may be: -ened out into glasses with a silver 
 ladle. 
 
 SYLLABUB. (2) A large glass of Madei- 
 ra, one of rich sweet w ine, and half a one of 
 ratafia, half a pound of |x>uiidcd loaf sugar, 
 the grated peel of a large lemon, the juice 
 of two, and a little |xmndrd cinnamon; stir 
 it all together till the sugar l>e dissolved, and 
 add a quart of /ich en-am; whisk it well; 
 lay some macaroons into the Ixittom of :i 
 dish, and pile tlte frothed syllabub high upon 
 it. It may l>c kept nine or ten da 
 better the third and fourth than when first 
 made. 
 
 SYLLABUB, SOLID. A quarter of a 
 
 pint of m iniiiain, the Mine of white wine, 
 the grated peel of two, and juice of one 
 lemon ; sweeten, and add it to a <|iiart of 
 rich cream; whi*k it for an hour, and put it 
 into glasses. It will keep a week in cold 
 weatW. 
 
 SYLLABUB, COMMON. Half a pint 
 of currant, the same of Port or white wine, 
 half a gratt-d nutmeg, and the peel of a 
 lemon; sweeten well with pounded loaf or 
 givxl brown sugar, and mix it together in a 
 China bowl, and when the sugar dissolves, 
 milk upon it three or four pints of milk. 
 Serve it when cold. 
 
 SYLLABUB, WHIPT. (1) Mix to- 
 gether half a glass of brandy, a little lemon- 
 juice, and grated peel, with sugar enough to 
 sweeten the whole; stir it into a pint of 
 thick cream, and add the well-beaten whites 
 of six cg:is; whisk it for an hour, and put 
 the froth, as it rises, upon a sieve to dram; 
 put a little Port and sweet wine into glasses, 
 and fill them up with the froth. 
 
 SYLLABUB, WHIPT. (2) Mix with 
 a pint of cream, half a pint of sweet wine, 
 a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grat- 
 ed nutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar: 
 nearly fill the custard-glasses with tire mix- 
 ture, and lay on with a spoon some of the 
 whip. 
 
 T. 
 
 TAMIS, a coarse kind of cloth for strain- 
 ing soups and gravies. 
 
 TARTE, ROYAL BERLIN. Take 
 
 half a pound of sweet almonds, and having 
 blanched, |x>ni\d them with six eggs, in a 
 marble mortar to a very line paste, add to it 
 a pound of broken sugar, a pound of fresh 
 bnllei , and the _;:at.d rind of two lemons, 
 Ix at it well as each ingredient is put in; 
 lay about sixteen or eighteen ounces of r.\(i- 
 ed flour on the slab, place the almond paste 
 on it, ami kne.id them well together. Di- 
 vide this into several pieces, which roll to 
 the eighth of an inch in thickness; from 
 these cut from twelve to sixteen circular 
 layers, tlie largest about seven inches in 
 . the rest, each somewhat smaller 
 than the other ; wlien all are cut, place them 
 on white pa[>er on tins, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven to a clear brown, then take 
 them out, and let them cool. As soon a* 
 cold, place the largest piece on a China 
 di.-h, ol'a sufficient size to let it lay tlat, and 
 spread over it equally some preserved fruit; 
 cover this with the second sized layer, on 
 which also spread preserved fruit; then a 
 third layer, and .-> on until all the paste is 
 uned, taking care to put each layer in its 
 proper order, so that the whole may form a 
 
 c , ami th.it U-twi-rn every one must be 
 
 a dilieient kind of preserve; wlien done, 
 glaze, and ornament it as follows: cut some
 
 TARTS 
 
 220 
 
 TARTS 
 
 candied lemon, ;md orange-peel into the 
 form of leaves, which arrange in garlands 
 round the tart, putting here and there a 
 small preserved fruit; when done, replace it 
 in the oven for two or three minutes lo dr,, 
 and then serve. 
 
 TARTLETS. (1) Butter some small 
 tartlet pans; line them with a nice thin 
 puff pas'.i', mark it neatly round the edges, 
 bake them ; when they are cold, fill them 
 with custard, preserve, or a:iy sweetmeat 
 you think proper, and if you choose, pour 
 custard over. 
 
 TARTLETS. (2) Roll out the paste 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, and lay 
 upon it the top part of the patty-pan ; cut it 
 round witli the paste cutter. Rub die patty- 
 pans with a little butter, and line them with 
 the paste, and place in the middle a little bit of 
 bread, which take out when they arc baked. 
 They may be filled with any preserved fruit, 
 and a star or leaf of paste placed on the top. 
 To make ornaments of paste, roll it quite 
 thin, and as even as possible; cut it with 
 tin atars, leaves, or any other form, and 
 bake them a light brown color, upon flat 
 tins dusted with flour. 
 
 TART, APPLE, CREAMED. Use 
 
 green codlings, in preference to any other 
 apple, and proceed as in the last receipt. 
 When the pie is done, cut out the whole of 
 the centre, leaving the edges; when cold, 
 pour on the apple some rich boiled custard, 
 and place round it some small leaves of puff 
 paste of a light color. 
 
 TART, CHERRY. The cherries may 
 be stoned, and a few red currants added; 
 sweeten with loaf or brow-n sugar, and put 
 into the bottom of the dish a small tea-cup; 
 cover it with paste. 
 
 TART, CRANBERRY. Take cran- 
 berries, pick and wash them in several wa- 
 ters, put them into a dish, with the juice of 
 half a lemon, a quarter of a pound of moist 
 or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of cran- 
 berries. Cover it with puff or tart paste 
 and bake it three-quarters of an hour ; if 
 tart paste is used, draw it from the oven 
 five minutes before it is done, and ice it, re- 
 turn it to the oven, and send it to table 
 cold. 
 
 TART, CURRANT. To a quart of 
 red currants add one pint of red raspber- 
 ries, strawberries, or cherries ; sweeten them 
 well with brown sugar; l>efure putting in 
 the fruit, line the side of the dish with tart 
 paste, place in it a small tea-nip, put in (he 
 fruit, and cover it with paste. 
 
 Four ounces of brown sugar are general- 
 ly allowed to a quart of fruit. 
 
 TART OF PRESERVED FRUIT. 
 
 Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart 
 paste, about an eighth of an inch thick; roll 
 out puff paste, half an inch thick, and cut it 
 out in strips an inch wide; wet the tart 
 paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by 
 way of a rim ; fill the centre with jam or 
 marmalade of any kind, ornament it with 
 small leaves of puff paste, bake it half an 
 hour, and send it to table cold. 
 
 The al>ove may be filled before the puff 
 paste is laid on, neatly strung with paste, 
 and the liui (nit over after. 
 
 Tlie most general way of sending tourtes 
 to table, is with a croquante of paste, or a 
 caramel of spun sugar put over after it is 
 baked. 
 
 TARTS, PRESERVED FRUIT. Rub 
 
 over with a little butter an oval dish, or tin 
 shape, line it with (Kiste, and fill it w ith any 
 sort of preserved fruit. Roll out a bit of 
 paste thin, and, with a paste cutter, cut it 
 into narrow strips; brush with water the 
 rim of the shape, and lay the bars of paste 
 across and across, and then put round a 
 border of paste, and mark it with the paste 
 cutter. 
 
 TARTS, RIPE FRUIT. Gooseberries, 
 
 damsons, morello cherries, currants mixed 
 with raspberries, plums, green gages, white 
 plums, &c. should be quite fresh picked, and 
 washed: lay them in the dish with the centre 
 highest, and about a quarter of a pound of 
 moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of 
 fruit (but if quite ri|>e they will not require 
 sn much); add a little water; rub the edges 
 of the dish with yolk of egsj; cover it with 
 tart paste, about half an inch thick ; press 
 \otir thumb round the rim, and close it well; 
 pare it round with a knife; make a hole in 
 the sides below the rim; bake it in a mode- 
 raie-heated oven ; and ten minutes before it 
 is done, take it out and ice it, and return it 
 to tiie oven to dry. 
 
 TART, RHUBARB. Strip off the peel, 
 and if the rhubarb is large, cut it into two 
 or three strips, and then into bits about an 
 inch long; sweeten well with broun sugar, 
 and cover the dish with paste. 
 
 TART PASTE, FOR FAMILY PIES. 
 
 Rub in with the hand half a pound of batter 
 into one p.>und and a quarter of Hour, mix it 
 with hall' a pint of water, and knead it well. 
 
 TART PASTE, SWEET, OR SHORT 
 AND CRISPKU. To one |xmitd and a quar- 
 ter of fine flour add ten minces ot' fresh butter,
 
 TEW 
 
 221 
 
 TIM 
 
 the yolks of two eggs beaten, and three oun- 
 
 silu-d loaf sugar; mix up together with 
 half a pint i if new milk, and knead it well. 
 .\. B. This crust i.- frtx|tiently iced. 
 
 TK \ CREAM. Infuse an ounce of the 
 best green tea in lialfa pint of boiling milk, 
 simmer it fi\e minutes, then strain it through 
 a tammy, pie-sin,- the leaves w-ll. I' 
 pint of rich it the \olks of f,ur 
 
 . well lie.i'eu, and a sufi'iciem quantity 
 i i:i' d .-n^ai ; pour this whilst hot to the 
 milk, stir ili !!; put in a* much 
 
 rlanlied i-in,'l;Lss as will set it, and |iur the 
 cream into the mould, or gla>.-es ; place them 
 on ice; when perfectly cold, turn it out of 
 the mould, or serve in the glasses. 
 
 TK \l._ KOASTEI). Shred a little 
 lemon-peel, and mix it with a bit of butler, 
 
 p'llt, pepper, ;. id lemon-juice ; stu'Y your 
 birds with (his, ei,\er them lir>t wit!) slices 
 , then IMP. .11, and lastly, buttered 
 ! inkle 1 with salt; tit- them up se- 
 curely, f.i-ten i|i--m to the -;:ii. ami roast 
 them. \Vhen don, let the butter run out, 
 remove the wrappers, and dish them. Serve 
 them w ith a .-.i i .llnws: p"t into 
 
 n^nole, a 
 
 spoonful of consomme, a bit of gla/.e, die 
 rind of a quarter of a lemon, and a little |>ep- 
 per; give them a Ixiil tip tojji-ther, and strain 
 
 it 0\er the te.ll. 
 
 TEVH. They arc a fine-flavored fresh 
 
 wati-r ti.-h ; wlieti < .d. the eves are bright, 
 the Ixidy stitT, and the outside flee from >lime. ; 
 tench should I- -n :t~ can_'hl. 
 
 TENTH, FKIK!>. Take a couple- of 
 large teiH-ll, scale and rlean-e them a- for 
 broiling. < 'ill c.lV the tins, split them down 
 the back, take mil the Ix.nes; sprinkle them 
 with Hour and sail; -q'iee/e a liltle lemon- 
 jui.-e over, and fry them in Uitter, and serve 
 them dry. 
 
 IT.M II. !{t)\<TK|). Take off scales, 
 h.-ads, and tins, of the lench, cleans*- and dry 
 them wll, then put into e.ich a little biiller, 
 mixed with sweet li.'ibs; lay lliem for a In nit 
 live minutes in melted butter, with salt, |*-p- 
 |>er, and sweet herbs; wrap each li.-h in |>;i- 
 per, fasten them to a spit, and roast them. 
 
 TF.NVAIIDIDltl.i;. A pint of table 
 beer (or ale, if you intend it for a supplement 
 to your ' nijfht cap"), a tab!e-s|xionlnl of 
 brandy , and a tea-s|H.onfm of blown sugar, 
 or rlaritied Minp; a little uraie.l mitiiHg or 
 (linger may l-adde<l,and a p. II of ver\ tliin- 
 
 CUt leill'.ll.; 
 
 Ob*. HelSre our r-aders make a'iv re- 
 maiks on this c..mi-iti..ii, we beg ut them 
 19* 
 
 to taste it: if the materials are good, aud 
 their palate \il,i.ue> in unison with our own, 
 they will liud It "lie i.| tile ple.i^a.iiest bever- 
 ages lhf\ e\er put to theii lips; and, as Lord 
 Kntlnen s\s, " this is. a right gossip's cup 
 that far exceeds all the ale that ever Mother 
 liiinch made in her lite-time." 
 
 TMK 'HI-AINU. Clarified butter is beat 
 lor this purpose; but if you have none ready, 
 put s.mie fresh butter into a ftewpan over a 
 .-low, clear lire; when it is melted, add fine 
 llotir sullicient to make it tlk- thickness of 
 ir it well together with a wooden 
 spoon t'.i tifteen or twenty minutes, till it ie 
 (|ni'e Mii'.oth, and the color of a guinea: this 
 inn-t be done very iri.idnaHy and piitiently; 
 if you put it over too fierce a (ire to hurry it, 
 it will In-come bitter and empyreumatic: pour 
 it into an earthen pan, and keep it lor use. 
 It will keep good a fortnight in summer, and 
 longer ill winter. 
 
 A large sp<x>nfnl will generally be enough 
 to ihicken a <|u:ut of 
 
 Obs. This, in the French kitchen, it 
 railed roux. Be particularly attentive in 
 making it; if it yets any burnt smell or 
 taste, it H ill spoil every thing it is (nit into. 
 When cold, it should be thick enough to cut 
 out with a knife, like a solid paste. 
 
 It is a very essential article in the kitchen, 
 and is the Uisis of consistency in most made- 
 ('i-li'-, soii|Ki, sauces, and ragouts; if the 
 ^r, nil's, kc. are too thin, add this thicken- 
 ing, more or less, according to the consistence 
 yon would wish them to have. 
 
 -In making thickening, the lew 
 Inner, and the more Hour you use, the bet- 
 ter ; they must IK.- thoroughly worked to- 
 gether, and the broth, or soup, cc. you put 
 them t ,, addeil by degrees: take especial 
 care to incorporate tln;m well together, or 
 . will taste floury, and have 
 a disgusting, jiivasy appearance: therefore, 
 after sou have thickened \onr sauce, add to 
 it some broth, or warm waits-, in ihe pro- 
 poilioa of two lahle-ipoonfiils to a pint, and 
 set it by the side of ihe tin-, to raise any fat, 
 Sic. that i.- noi thoroughly incorporated with 
 the gravy, which you mu-t carefully reiiKive 
 as it come* to the top. This u called 
 cleansing, or finishing the sauce. 
 
 1 lalf an ounce of butler, and a table-spoon- 
 ful of (lour, are about the proportion for a 
 pint oi r-.mee to make it as think as cream. 
 
 ,\. IS. The fat skimmings off the top 
 o 1 the broth-pot are sometimes substituted 
 for butler; some cooks merely thicken their 
 sotips and sauces with Hour. 
 
 TIMi'.XLF. I'm a pound of flour on 
 the slab, make a hole in tin; middle of it, 
 into which jx.ur a little water, three or four 
 ' oil, a quarter of a (Kjund of but-
 
 TO A 
 
 222 
 
 TOM 
 
 ter, the yolks of two eggs, and a pinch of 
 gait ; knead these ingredients thoroughly into 
 the flour, until it becomes a tolerably firm 
 paste; roll it out to nearly half an inch in 
 thickness, line one large, or several small 
 plain round moulds, with this paste; let the 
 moulds lie well buttered, and the paste come 
 about half an inch above the top of the mould ; 
 fill your timbale with any farce, or ragout, 
 you think proper, cover it with a layer of 
 paste, pressing the edges together; bake it, 
 and when done, turn 'he timbale on a dish, 
 make a hole, pour in some rich sauce or 
 gravy, and serve. 
 
 TINCTURE OF ALLSPICE. Of 
 allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries' 
 weight ; brandy, a quart. Let it steep a 
 fortnight, occasionally shaking it up; then 
 pour oil the clear liquor: it is a most grateful 
 addition in all cases where allspice is used, 
 for making a bishop, or to mulled wine ex- 
 tem|K>re, or in gravies, &c. or to flavor and 
 preserve potted meats. 
 
 TIPSY CAKE. Pour over a sponge 
 cake, made in the form of a porcupine, as 
 much white wine as it will absorb, and stick 
 it all over with blanched sweet almonds, cut 
 like straws; or pour wine in the same man- 
 ner over a thick slice of sponge cake, cover 
 the top of it with preserved strawlterries or 
 raspberries, and stick cut almonds all round it. 
 
 TOAST AND CHEESE. See Cheese. 
 
 TOAST, WITH BUTTER. Spread 
 butter over some slices of fried bread ; lay- 
 on them sweet herbs, tossed up in melted 
 butter, and serve. 
 
 TOASTS, GENOA. Lard a French 
 roll with partly anchovies, and partly liam; 
 cut the roll into slices, lay on each a thin 
 slice of l>acon, dip them into batter, and fry 
 them ; drain, and serve with ravigote. 
 
 TOASTS, GRENADA. Cut some fat 
 and lean bacon into dice, give them a few 
 turns over the fire with parsley, scallions, 
 shallots, pepper, salt, and the yolks of three 
 eggs; stir it frequently, till it forms a kind 
 of forcemeat, spread it over slices of bread, 
 cut of an equal thickness, and fry them. 
 
 TOASTS, ITALIAN. Cut s me slices 
 
 of bread, about half an inch in thickness, 
 frv them in sweet oil, let it be dry, and 
 crisp, lay them on a dish, and spread over 
 them any light good farce you may think 
 proper; pour over them an appropriate 
 sauce and serve them. 
 
 TOAST AND WATER. Pare the 
 
 crust off a thin slice of stale bread, toast 
 it brown upon both sides, doing it equally 
 and slowly, thai it may harden without being 
 burnt; put it into a jug, and pour upon it 
 boiling water; cover the jug with a saucer, 
 and set it in a cool place. 
 
 TOASTS, SPANISH. Roll out some 
 almond paste, nearly an inch thick, cut it 
 into pieces", alwut two inches square, press 
 them down with a square piece of wood, a 
 little smaller than the paste, which will leave 
 the edges higher than the rest; bake then, 
 and when cold, pour in any prepared cream 
 you please, as high as the borders; ice, and 
 color them with a salamander. 
 
 TOMATA SAUCE. Bake six tomatas 
 in an oven till quite soft; with a tea-spoon 
 take out the pulp, add salt, cayenne, and 
 vinegar, till of the consistence of thick cream. 
 
 TOMATA SOUP. Wash, scrape, and 
 cut small the red part of three large carroU, 
 three heads of celeiy, four large onions, and 
 two large turnips, put them into a saucepan, 
 with a table-spoonful of butter, and half a 
 pound of lean new ham ; let them stew very 
 gently for an hour, then add three quarts of 
 brown gravy soup, and some whole black 
 pepper, with eight or ten ripe tomatas ; let 
 it boil an hour and a half, and pulp it through 
 a sieve ; serve it with (Vied bread cut in dice. 
 
 TOMATA SAUCE, FRENCH. Cut 
 ten or a dozen tuinalas into quarters, and 
 put them into a saucepan, with four on- 
 ions sliced, a little parsley, thy mo, one clove, 
 and a quarter of a pound of butler; set the 
 saucepan on the fire, stirring occasionally for 
 three-quarters of an hour; strain the sauce 
 through a horse-hair sie\e, and serve with 
 the directed articles. 
 
 TOMATA SAUCE, ITALIAN. Take 
 five or six onions, slice, anil put tliem into 
 a saucepan, with a little thune, bay-leaf, 
 twelve or fifteen lomatas, a bit of butter, 
 salt, half a do/en alUpice, a little India saf- 
 fron, and a glass of stock ; set tliem on the 
 fire, taking care to stir it freqnen ly. as it is 
 apt to stick ; when you perceive the sauce is 
 tolerably thick, strain it like a p'.irte. 
 
 TO ATA KETCHUP. (1) Take t, m -.- 
 tas when fully ripe, bake them in a jar till 
 tender strain them, and rub them through a 
 sieve. To evei v |xnmd of juice, add a pint 
 of Chili vinegar, an ounce of shallots, half an 
 oun.e i. f gailic, both sliced, a quarter of an 
 ounce of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of 
 white pepper, fin"!y powdered; l'il the 
 whole till eveiy i;'.:,edii-nl is soft, rub it 
 again through the >ieve. To every pound
 
 TOM 
 
 223 
 
 TON 
 
 add the juice of three lemons; boil it again 
 to tin. 1 consistence of cream; when cold, bot- 
 tle it, put a small quantity of sweet oil on 
 each, tie bladders over, and keep it in a dry 
 place. 
 
 TOMATA KETCHUP. (2) Gather a 
 peck of (oinatas, pick out the stems, and 
 wash them ; put tliem on the fire without 
 uutcr; sprinkle on a few spoonfuls of salt ; 
 let them txiil .-le.idily an hour, stirring them 
 frequently ; .-train them through a colander 
 und then throu<r|i a sieve ; put the liquid on 
 the fire with half a pint of rhop|>cd onions, 
 eighth of an ounce of mure bloke into small 
 pieces, and if not sufficiently salt, add a little 
 more; one table-spoonful of whole black 
 pepper; boil all together until just enough 
 to fill two bottles; cork it tight. 
 
 [Tin- seasoning may he varied to suit the 
 taste. Allspice iu.-t. ad of mact common 
 red |x-pper in.-tead of black pepper, and less 
 chopped onion.] 
 
 TOMATO KETCHUP. (3) On, Dil- 
 lon skinned tomatas, four table-sp 
 Kilt, tour do. black pepper, tuo do. allspice, 
 eight pods red pep|x j r, ei^lit table-s|>oons of 
 mustard wed. These articles, to be bruised 
 tine and simmered r-low ly in a pint of vinegar 
 three hours; then strained through a hair 
 sieve. To Ix- stewed down to half a gallon 
 of ketchup. 
 
 TOMAT\S. MKTHOD OF PRE- 
 SERVING. (1) A sufficient quantity of salt 
 U dissolved in spring or river water to make- 
 it slroii'.; enough to U-ar an eg;; ; select per- 
 feclly ripe tomatas, anil place them well and 
 without pres.-hr,' them, in a slo 
 eartlien |>ot, uitli a ilee;i |.!.ite in such a 
 manner that it presses U|x>n the fruit, and by 
 ihi- - loin. it. is ni'i\ lie pr. 
 
 more than a year without attention. Before- 
 Cooking them they should lie soaked in fresh 
 water for >e\rral hours. 
 
 TOMVTAS. .MKTHOD OF PRE- 
 SERVING. (2) Gather them carefully 
 without bruising; |)ni tliem ia a stone jar, 
 and |>our ia sirou^ brine, to the tup putting 
 on a light weight to keep iheni gently pressed 
 down Ix-low the s'nfaee of the bi ine. Soak 
 them in fresh water and cook them in the 
 usual way, wagoning to suit tlie taste, as 
 wlien fresh from die vine. 
 
 TOMATA MAKM M.ADE. Gather 
 full-grown lomatas while quite green; take. 
 out the stems anil stew them till soft; rub 
 them lln.'inli a sieve; put I h- pulp on the 
 fire, teaaoitcd highly with pepper, .-alt and 
 powdered . : lie, and slew 
 
 all together till thick. It keeps well, and i> 
 
 excellent for seasoning gravies. Besides the 
 numerous modes of preparing this delicious 
 vegetable for the table, it may be stewed, 
 after being peeled, wilh sugar, like cranljer- 
 ries and gooseberries, producing a tart equal 
 to either of those fruits. Tomatas make 
 good pickles, pickled green; to peel them, 
 pour boiling water on them, when the skin 
 will come off easily. 
 
 TONGUE. (1) " A tongue which has 
 not been dried will require very little soak- 
 ing, but if dried, it should lie soaked in 
 water for three or four hours; then put it 
 into cold water, and let it boil gently till 
 tender. 
 
 TONGUE. (2) A tongue is so hard, 
 whether prewired by drying or pickliii',', that 
 it requires much more cooking than a ham; 
 nothing of its weight takes so long to dress 
 it properly. 
 
 A tongue that has lxn salted and dric-d 
 should IK; put to soak (if it is old :md very 
 hard, 24 hours More it is wanted) in plen- 
 ty of water; a urien one fresh from the pic- 
 kle reqniies M liking only a few hours: put 
 your tongue into plenty of cold water; let 
 it be an hour gradually warming; and give 
 it from three und -a half to four hours' very 
 slow simmering, according to the size, &c. 
 
 Obs. When you choose a tongue, en- 
 deavor to learn how long it has been dried 
 or pickled, pick out the plumpest, and that 
 which has the smoothest skin, which de- 
 notes its Ix'ing young and tender. 
 
 The roots, &c. make an excellent relish 
 potted, or peas soup. 
 
 TONGUE, TO STEW. Wash it very 
 clean, and rub it well with common salt and 
 a little salt|X'fre; let it lie tuo or three days, 
 and then boil it till the skin will pull off. 
 Put it into a saucepan, with part of the li- 
 qnor it has l-en Boiled in, and a pint of 
 good stock. Season with black and Ja- 
 maica pep|>er, and two or three pounded 
 i Id a glass of white wine ami a 
 (abl.'-s|>oonfnl of mushroom ketchup, and 
 one of lemon pickle; thicken the sauce with 
 butter rolled in Hour, and pour it over the 
 tongue. 
 
 TONGUE, PICKLED, GLAXI'P. 
 
 Boil a large tongue till it be ten.: 
 and gla/e it. an. I serve, it with mashed tur- 
 nips on one side, and mashed carrots, or 
 carrots and spinach on the other. 
 
 TONGUE, POTTED. See Ham. 
 
 TUMilT.S. TO SALT. Salt two 
 and turn them every day f>r four or 
 ; then rub them with two ounces
 
 TR I 
 
 224 
 
 TRI 
 
 of common salt, one of brown sugar, and half 
 an ounce of saltpetre; turn them daily, and 
 in a fortnight they may IK; used. 
 
 The. IK-SI sort of vessel for salting them 
 in is an earthen- ware pan, as wide at top 
 as bottom, so that the tongues may lie in it 
 long-ways. 
 
 TRIFLE. (1) Add to a pint of rich 
 cream a tea-cupful of white wine, sweeten it 
 with pounded loaf sugar, whisk it well, and 
 as the froth rises lay it n|x>n a sieve placed 
 over a deep dish ; as it drains, pour the 
 cream into the pan in which it is whisked 
 till all is done ; dip some sponge biscuit, rata- 
 fia cakes, or Savoy biscuit, into sweet wine 
 and a little brandy; pour over them a lich 
 boiled custard, and when quite cold, lay on 
 the whipt cream, piled as high as possible. 
 Colored comfits may be strewed over the 
 top. 
 
 TRIFLE. (2) Mix three table-spoon- 
 fuls of white wine, and one of sugar, with a 
 pint and a half of thick cream; whisk it, 
 and take oft" as much froth as will heap upon 
 the dish, into which lay some pieces of 
 sponge cake, or some sponge biscuit, soaked 
 with sweet wine, and covered with preserv- 
 ed strawberries, or any other fruit; pile the 
 froth upon this, and pour the remainder of 
 the cream into the bottom of the dish; gar- 
 nish with flowers. 
 
 TRIFLE. (3) Cover the bottom of 
 the dish with Naples biscuits, and maca- 
 roons, broke in halves, wet with brandy and 
 white wine, poured over them ; cover them 
 with patches of raspberry jam; till the dish 
 with a good custard, then wiiip up a sylla- 
 bub, drain the froth on a sieve; put it on 
 the custard, and strew comfits over all. 
 
 TRIPE. Take care to have fresh tripo; 
 cleanse it well from the fat, and cut ii into 
 l>ieces about two inches broad and four long,; 
 put it into a stewpan, and cover it with 
 milk and water, and let it boil gently till it 
 is tender. 
 
 If the tripe has been prepared a it usual- 
 ly is at the tripe shops, it will be enough in 
 about an hour, (this depends upon how long 
 it has been previously l>oiled at the tripe 
 shop); if entirely undressed, it will require 
 two or three hours, according to the age 
 and quality of it. 
 
 Make some onion sauce in the same man- 
 ner as you do for rabbits, or boil (slowly by 
 themselves) some Spanish or the whitest 
 common onions you can get ; peel tl>em be- 
 fore you boil them; when they are tender, 
 which a middling-sized onion will be in 
 about three-quarters of an hour, drain them 
 in a hair oieve, take off the top skins till 
 
 they look nice and white, and put them 
 with the tripe into a tureen or soup-dish, 
 and take off the fat if any floats on the 
 sill lace. 
 
 Obs. Rashers of bacon, or fried sau- 
 sages are a very good accompaniment to 
 boiled tripe, cow-heels or calf's feet, see 
 Kelly's sauce or paisley and butter, or ea- 
 per sauce, with a little \inegar and mus- 
 tard added to them, or salad mixture. 
 
 Tripe holds the same rank among solids, 
 that water gruel does among soups, and the 
 former is desirable at dinner, when the lat- 
 ter is welcome at supper. 
 
 TRIPE, TO FRY. Cut it into bit* 
 three or four inches square; make a batter 
 thicker than fir pancakes, of three eggs 
 lieaten up with tlour and milk, a little salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg; dip in the tripe, and 
 fry it in butter, or fresh dripping, of a light 
 brown color. Swerve it garnished with pars- 
 Icy. Sauce; melted butter with lemon 
 pickle in it. 
 
 TRIPE PIE. Lay into the bottom of 
 a di.-h some thinly-sliced cold or raw ham, 
 then put in a layer of tripe with the jelly 
 adhering to it, season with [K'pper and salt, 
 and add a bit of butler; fill the dish in this 
 manner, and put in a few table-spoonfuls 
 of brown stork; cover the dish with puff 
 paste. A beefsteak may be substituted for 
 the ham, laid into the bottom, and the dish 
 filled up with tripe. 
 
 TRIPE, TO BOIL. Clean it extreme- 
 ly well, and take off the fat; let it lie a 
 night in salt-and-water, again wash it well, 
 and let it lie in milk-and-water for the same 
 length of time; then cut it into small pieces, 
 roll and tie them with thread ; put them, 
 with a clean-washed marrow-tone, into a 
 linen Ixtg; tie it closely, and put it into a 
 stewpan lhat has a cover to tit quite close- 
 ly, fill it up with water, and let it boil 
 "etitly for six hours. Take the tripe out 
 if the bag, put it into a jar, and pour over 
 it the liquor in which it was boiled. When 
 In I*' diesseii. boil some whole small onions 
 in a part of the liquor, add a little salt, tlu-n 
 put in tin- lri|M' and beat it thoromiliK. 
 
 Or it may be fried in butter fricasseed, or 
 stewed in a brown sauce. 
 
 Instead of being boiled in a ba;j, the tripe 
 may be put, with some salt and whole pep- 
 per, into a stone-ware jar, which must have 
 a piece of linen tied over it, and a plate laid 
 upon the top. The pot should always be 
 kept full of boiling water, taking care that 
 it do not boil into the jar. 
 
 TRIPE, TO ROAST. Cut the tripe 
 into two oblong pieces, make a forcemeat
 
 TRO 
 
 225 
 
 TUN 
 
 of bread cruml* ami chopped paisley, sea- 
 soned with [lepper ami will; hind it with 
 tin- yolks of t\\o i>a^>; spread it ii|x>u the 
 fat side of the tripe, and lay on tin- other 
 fill fide; then roll it very tightly, and lie it 
 with packthread. Roast, and !>astc it with 
 iMitter: il will take one hour, or one hour 
 and a hall". Serve it with melted butter, 
 into which put a table-spoonful of ketchup 
 and one of lemon pickle. 
 
 TRIPE, HREADED. Cut your tripe 
 into small square pieces, and give them a 
 few turns in some butter, with parsley^ wit, 
 and pepper; roll each l)it in grated bread, 
 and broil them slowly. When done, serve 
 them with slices of lemon. 
 
 TROUT. This fish is held in great 
 estimation, it is a fiesli water fish, and 
 when food, of a tlesh color, and the spots 
 upon it are very bright ; (lie female is con- 
 sidered the best, and is known by the head 
 lieing smaller, and the body being deeper 
 than that of the male. 
 
 TROUT, POTTED. Mix together 
 
 the following quantity of finely-powdered 
 
 spices: On< nee of cloves, half an ounce 
 
 of Jamaica |x>pper, quarter of an ounce of 
 black pep[>er, quarter of an ounce of cay- 
 enne, two nutmegs, a litlle mare, and two 
 tea-npoonfnls of ijinu'er; add the weight of 
 the spices, and half as much again of salt, 
 and mix all thoroughly. <'le:m the tish,and 
 cut off the lie;d-, tin-:, and tails; put a t< a- 
 f|iouful of the mixed spices into each fish, 
 and lay them into a deep earthen jar, with 
 the backs d'.wu wards; co\er them with 
 elaritied Initter, tie a paper over the mouth 
 of tin; jr, and bake them .-lowly for eiylit 
 hnis. When the back bone is tender, the 
 lish arc done enou-jh. Take them out of 
 the jar, and (Hit them into a milkpan with 
 the backs upwards; cover them with a 
 Ix.ard, and place upon it a heavy weight. 
 When |XTl'eclK cold, remove the fish into 
 frcr-h jars, smooth them with a knife, and 
 cover them with clarified butter. 
 
 TKOI I. TO COLLAR. Wash them 
 
 . split them down the back bone, and 
 
 dry them well in a cloth; season them well 
 
 with finely-|)oiini!ed black pepper, salt, and 
 
 in. ire; roll them tight, and lay them 
 
 into a dish; |>our over an equal quantity of 
 
 ir and I HIT, with two or three liay- 
 
 leaves, and some whole lilaek pepju-r ; tie 
 
 over ill'- lish i -In -ei of buttered paper, and 
 
 Lake them an hour. 
 
 TROUT, TO P.ROIL. Cut off the tins, 
 and CHI the fish down the baek, < I >sc to (In- 
 bone, ami split the head in tvv>. Another 
 
 way is, after they have been rut open, to 
 rub a little salt over them; let them lie three 
 or four hours, and then hang them up in the 
 kitchen. They will be ready to broil the 
 
 next morning for breakfast. 
 
 TROUT, TO BOIL. Clean and giit 
 them ; make the water as salt as for lx>il- 
 ing salmon in, and when it boils put in the 
 trout, and let them boil fast from fifteen 
 to twenty minutes, according to their size. 
 Sauce; melted Itutter. 
 
 TROUT, TO FRY. Cut off the fins, 
 clean and gut them; dust them wilh flour, 
 and dip diem into the yolk of an egg beaten ; 
 strew grated bread crumbs over, and fry them 
 in fresh dripping; lay them upon the back 
 of a sieve before the fire to drain. Sauce; 
 melted butter, with a table-spoonful of 
 ketchup, and one of lemon pickle in it. 
 When they are email, roll them in oatmeal 
 Ix'fore they are fried. 
 
 TRUFFLFS. The truffle, like the mush- 
 room, is a species of fungus common in 
 France and Italy; it generally grows about 
 eight or ten inches lielovv the surface of the 
 ground ; as it imparts a most delicious flavor, 
 it is much used in cookery. lieing dug out 
 of the earth, it requires a great deal of wash- 
 ing and brushing, before it can be applied to 
 culinary purposes; when washed, the water 
 should l>e warm, and changed frequency. Tt 
 lo.-es much of its flavor when dried. 
 
 TRUFFLE SAUCE. Mince two or 
 three truffles very small, and toss them up 
 ! ; ,-|illy, in either oil or butter, according to 
 %onr taste; then put to them four or five la- 
 dlefuls of veloute and a s|xmufiil of con- 
 sommt; let it boil for alxiut a quarter 
 of an hour over a gentle fire, skim off all 
 the fat; keep ymr sauce hot in the bain- 
 marie. 
 
 TRUFFLES TOURTE. Take two 
 [xiunds of fine truffles, wash and pick them; 
 put them into a .-tew pan, with six thin slice* 
 of ham, a very little carrot, a sliced onion, 
 i Lav, -leaf, sweet herbs in powder, salt, am( 
 Champagne; lay rashers of bacon over the 
 whole, and stew them to nearly a jelly. 
 When cold, put the truffles into a crust wilh 
 all ihe sea-oiiing; bake the towtt ,and serve 
 as usual. 
 
 TUNRRinC.E CAKES. Rub two. 
 
 ounces of butler into half a |x>uud of dried 
 flour; add a few caraway seeds, and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of pminded loaf sugar; mix 
 it to a -ii!) paste with a little water, toll it 
 out v,i\ thin, cut it into mm id cakes with 
 a ,!. is- Li the top of a diedging box, prick
 
 TU R 
 
 226 
 
 TUR 
 
 them witli a fork, and bake them upon 
 floured ling. 
 
 TUNBRIDGE PUFFS. Put into a 
 nicely-tinned saucepan a pint of milk, and 
 when it b,>ils, stir in as much flour us will 
 make it a thick batter; add lliree well- 
 beaten eggs, and two or three drops of oil 
 of cinnamon, or any other seasoning; dust 
 a large tlat plate with (lour, with a spoon 
 throw on it the batter, in the form of balls 
 or fritters, and drop them into boiling cla- 
 rified dripping or lard. Serve them with 
 pounded loaf sugar strewed over. 
 
 The batter may be made into a pudding, 
 adding with the eggs an ounce of sail but- 
 ter. Boil and serve it with a sweet sauce. 
 
 TURBOT. Turbot, when good, should 
 be thick and full,' and the belly of a yellow- 
 ish while or cream color. 
 
 TURBOT, BAKED. Wash your fish 
 in several waters, dry it well, and soak it 
 in melted butter, with sweet herbs, parsley, 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg; in half an hour 
 put the whole into a baking dish, envelope 
 it completely in bread crumbs, and bake it. 
 
 TURBOT, BREADED. Prepare a 
 small turbot as usual, slit it across the back, 
 and soak it for an hour in melted butter, 
 or lemon-juice, with parsley, sweet herbs, 
 salt, and pepper. Cover the fish with 
 bread crumbs, and broil it; when done, 
 squeeze lemon, or Seville orange-juice over 
 it, and serve. 
 
 TURBOT, STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 Your turbot being properly cleansed, turn 
 over the skin of the under side, without cut- 
 ting it off; make a farce, with some butter, 
 parsley, scallions, morels, sweet herbs, all 
 shred, and united together, with yolks of 
 eggs, and seasoned with pepper and salt; 
 spread this all over the under part of the 
 fish, cover it with the skin, and sew it up. 
 Dissolve some butter in a saucepan; add to 
 it when melted, the yolk of an egg, sweet 
 herbs shred, salt, and pepper; rub the fish 
 all over with this, then bread, and bake it.' 
 
 TURBOT, TO BOIL. (1) This excellent 
 fish is in season the greatest part of the sum- 
 mer; when good, it is at once firm and ten- 
 der, and abounds with rich gelatinous nu- 
 trimenl. 
 
 Being drawn, and washed clean, if it be 
 quite fresh, by rubbing it lightly with salt, 
 and keeping it in a cold place, you may in 
 moderate weather preserve it for a couple 
 of days. 
 
 An hour or two before you dress it, soak 
 it in spring water with some salt in it, then 
 
 score the skin across the thickest part of 
 the back, to prevent its breaking on the 
 breast, which will happen from the fish 
 swelling, and cracking the skin, if thin pre- 
 caution l>e not used. Put a large handful 
 of salt into a fish-kettle with cold water, 
 lay your fish on a fish-strainer, put it in, 
 and when it is coming to a boil, skim it 
 well ; then set the kettle on the side of the 
 fire, to boil as gently as possible for about 
 fifteen or twenty minutes (if it boils fast, 
 the fish will break to pieces); supposing it 
 a middling-sized turbot, and to weigh eight 
 or nine pounds. 
 
 Rub a little of the inside red coral spawn 
 of the lobster through a hair sieve, with- 
 out butter; and when the turbot is dished, 
 sprinkle the spawn over it. Garnish the 
 dish with sprigs of curled parsley, sliced 
 lemon, and finely-scraped horseradish. 
 
 If you like to send it to table in full dress, 
 surround it with nicely-fried smelts, gudg- 
 eons are often used for this purpose, and may 
 l>e bought very cheap when smelts are very 
 dear; lay the largest opposite the broadest 
 part of the turbot, so that they may form a 
 well-proportioned fringe for it; or oysters; 
 or cut a sole in strips, crossways, about the 
 size of a smelt ; fry them and lay them 
 round. Send up lobster sauce, two boats 
 of it, if it is for a large party. 
 
 Obs. The thickest part is the favorite; 
 and the carver of this fish must remember 
 to ask his friends if they are fin-fanciers. 
 It will save a troublesome job to the carver 
 if the cook, when the fish is boiled, cuts the 
 spine bone across the middle. 
 
 TURBOT, TO BOIL. (2) Put into 
 the turbot kettle, with the water, two large 
 handfuls of salt, and a tea-cupful of vinegar; 
 when it boils very fast, take off the scum; 
 put in the turbot, and when it boils again 
 keep it boiling fast till the turbot rises from 
 the drainer; when it is sufficiently done, 
 dish and garnish it with a fringe of curled 
 parsley and cut lemon. Sauces; lobster 
 and melted butter. 
 
 Cold boiled turbct eats well with salad 
 sauce. 
 
 Turbot is generally considered best per- 
 fectly fresh ; but some people prefer it kept 
 for a few days, hung up by the toil in a 
 cool place. 
 
 TURBOT, GRILLED. Split the fish 
 down the back, and soak it for sometime, 
 with melted butter, parsley, sweet herbs, 
 salt, and pepper. Bread the turbot well, 
 broil, and serve it with lemon, or Seville 
 orange-juice. 
 
 TURBOT, WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Put a sliced onion, some thyme, basil, and
 
 TUR 
 
 227 
 
 TUR 
 
 sweet herbs into a stew-pan, place a small 
 turbot on these, strew similar heibs, salt, 
 pepper, and a leek, cut in purrs mer it ; 
 cover the li.-h wild c<iual quantities of vine- 
 gar, and wliilc wine; let it lx>il over a, 
 moderate tiie until sufficiently done; in the 
 meantime, melt a pound of butter, a. Id ID it 
 a couple of boned anchovies, two s|>ooiifuls 
 of capers, >liie 1 small, two or three leeks, 
 Bait, pepper, nutmeg, a little vinegar, water, 
 and a spi inUlinj of tlotir; in. ike all these 
 nha hot, Stirring Cmtantl) till clone; then 
 dish the lurbot, |>onr tlie sauce over it, and 
 serve. 
 
 TURKEY, BOILED. Make a stuffing 
 
 of bread, herli.. -alt, pepper, nutmeg, lem- 
 on-peel, a few oysters, or an anchovy, a bit 
 of butter, some suet, and an e^; put this 
 into the crop, fasten up the skin, and boil 
 the turkey in a floured cloth to make it very- 
 while. lla\e ready some oyster sauce 
 made rich with butler, a little cream, and a 
 spoonful of soy, and serve oxer the turkey, 
 or you may serve over it a liver and lemon 
 sauce. 
 
 TURKKV, Tl RKEY POULTS, AND 
 OTHF.K I'ori.iRY. A fowl and a turkey- 
 require the same management at the fire, 
 only the latter will take longer time. 
 
 Many a Christina.* dinner has Ixjen spoil- 
 ed by the turkey having been hung up in a 
 cold larder, and Ixicomini; thoroughly fro- 
 zen; Jack Front has ruined tlie reputation 
 of many a tin key i" 
 
 Ix't them U- carefully picked, &c. and 
 break tin- bie.i.-t lione (to make them look 
 plump), twist up a sherl of clean writing 
 paper, light it, and thoroughly .-in.;, the 
 turkey all over, turning it about over tlie 
 flame. 
 
 Turkeys, fowls, and capons have a much 
 better apix-arancc, if, instead of trussing 
 them with the legs close together, and the 
 feet cut off, the legs are extended on each 
 Side of the bird, and tint toes only cut olT, 
 with a -I.ewer thrutigli each foot, to keep 
 
 I pro|XT di- 
 
 Be r.i.i -fill, when yon draw ii, to preserve 
 the liie. . an 1 -i < 'H'-.iU ill.- _;;ill-l>ag, as 
 no wa-hing will takeoff ihi: bitdr ta.-le it 
 gives, where it once tone i 
 
 l'iep..i ii . In i~k lire for it. 
 
 M.ik" stult'ing; istufT it under the breast, 
 where I tken out, anrl m..ke 
 
 some ini Uiil or fry them, ,md 
 
 lay them innl the m-.i: tln-\ .<,- hands to 
 help, and ion can ih. of the 
 
 inside uitli the cold turkey, 
 
 'ii lo enrii h a hash. 
 
 TURKIC I.N IHIT.r.. TAean old 
 turkey, trues it in lite usual way ; roll tome 
 
 large lardons in a mixture of salt, pepper, 
 four spires, and sweet iK-ibs, and then lard 
 tlie turkey with them; lay slices of bacon 
 in a hraising-pan, put tlie turkey on them, 
 with two small knuckles of veal, tlie feet of 
 the bird, four carrots, six onions, three 
 cloies, tuo liiy-le.ives, thyme, a bunch of 
 :'id young onions; cover the whole 
 with bacon and a piece of buttered paper; 
 dilute it with four ladleful.s of stock (or 
 more if the turkey be very large), put in a 
 little salt, and set the pan on the lire to boil 
 slowly for three hours and a half; then take 
 it off, but do not take the bird out for at 
 least half an hour. Strain off the liquor, 
 and then reduce it to a fourth, or more if 
 cry thin; break an egg into another sauce- 
 pan, Ix-at it up well, and then |Mir the li- 
 quor on it, whisk them well together, and 
 if it wants flavor, add a few sweet herbs, 
 parsley leaves, and a young onion or two; 
 put it on the I'm-, stirring it violentlv until 
 ready to boil; as soon as it has Killed up 
 or twice; set it by Uie side of a stove, 
 (Hit (ire on the top of the saucepan, and let 
 it simmer half an hour; then strain it care- 
 fully through a fine cloth, and let it cool to 
 serve it with the turkey. 
 
 TURKEY, HASHED. (1) Cut up the 
 
 remains of a roasted turkey, put it into a 
 siewpan, with a glass of white wine, chop- 
 |H'd parsley, shallots, mushrooms, truffles, 
 salt and pepper, two spoonfuls of cullis, and 
 a little stock ; lx>il half an hour, and reduce 
 I to a thick sauce; when ready, add a pound 
 of anchovi, and a squeeze of lemon ; skim 
 off all the fat from the sauce, and serve all 
 togetlier. 
 
 TURKEY, HASHED. (2) Stir a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour into some 
 cream, and a little veal gravy, till it boils 
 up ; mince some cold roasted or boiled 
 turkey, but not tew small; put it into the 
 sauce, add grated lemon-peel, while pepper, 
 pounded mace, a little mushroom ketchup or 
 mushroom powder ; simmer it up, and serve. 
 Oysters m^v Ixj added. 
 
 TURKEY, ROASTED. It may be 
 
 either stuffed with sausage meat, or stuffing 
 the Rime as for fillet of veal. As this makes 
 a large addition to the si/.e of the bird, lake 
 care that the heat of the fire is constantly to 
 that pait, as it frequently hapfx-ns that the 
 breast is not sufficiently done. A strip of 
 paper should ! put on the bone t 
 Ha scorching, while the other parts are 
 roaming, llaste well, and froth it up 
 with i;i .111 in the dis'i, and bread sauce in a 
 -.in e mi. en. A few bread crimilM, and a 
 IxMteti - . ; -.1 '.ild be added to tlie stuffing 
 of Kiiifiage meat.
 
 TDK 
 
 228 
 
 TUR 
 
 TURKEY, STUFFED WITH SAU- 
 SAGES AND CHESTNUTS. Roast 
 what quantity f chestnuts you think neces- 
 sary, (jeel thorn, and pound a part of them 
 to make a farce, with the liver, chopped 
 parsley, shallots, a little salt and pe| |,er, a 
 bit of (miter, and the yolks of three raw 
 eggs, put this farce into the crop, and stmT 
 the body with the whole chestnuts, and small 
 nausages, first fried in butter till about half 
 done ; cover the turkey wild slices ot bacon, 
 and put paper over that, then roast it, and 
 serve with a chestnut cnllis. 
 
 TURNIPS, TO DRESS YOUNG 
 WHITE. Wash, peel, and boil them till 
 tender in water with a little salt; serve them 
 with melted butter poured over them. Or, 
 They may be stewed in a pint of milk thick- 
 ened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, and served 
 with the sauce. 
 
 TURNIPS. Peel off half an inch of the 
 stringy outside. FuH-growo turnips will 
 take about an hour and a half gentle boiling; 
 if you slice them, which m >sl people do, they 
 will be done sooner; try them with a fork; 
 when tender, lake them up, and lay them on 
 a sieve till the waler is thoroughly drained 
 from them. Send them up whole; do not 
 (lice them. 
 
 TURNIPS, TO BOIL YEM.OW OR 
 LARGE WHITK. Wash, pare, and throw 
 them into cold water; put them on in boiling 
 water with a little sill, and boil them from 
 two hours to Iwo and a half, drain them in 
 a cullender, pul them into a saucepan, and 
 mixing in a bit of butter, with a beater mash 
 them very smoothly, add half a pint of milk, 
 mix it well with the turnips, and make them 
 quite hot before serving. If they are to Ixj 
 served plain, dish them us .soon as the water 
 is drained off. 
 
 TURN 7 1 P TOPS, Are the shoots which 
 grow out (in the spring) of the old turnip 
 roots. Put them into cold w^.er an hour 
 before they are to be dressed; the more wa- 
 ter they are boiled in, the l>ctter they will 
 look; if boiled in a small quantity of water 
 they will taste bitter: when the water boils, 
 put in a small handful of salt, and then your 
 vegetables; if fresh and young, they will Ix- 
 done in about twenty minutes; drain them 
 on the back of a sieve. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP. (1) To dress a 
 Turtle weighing one hundred and twenty 
 pounds. Having cut off the head close to 
 the shell, hang up the turtle till the next 
 day, then open it, bearing the knife heavi- 
 ly on the back of the animal in cutting it 
 
 off all round ; turn it on its end, that all 
 the blood anil water may run out, then cut 
 the llesh off air, n^ the spine, sloping the knife 
 towards the bones so as to avoid touching 
 the gall, and having also cut the flesh from 
 the leys and other meinljcrs, wash the whole 
 well and drain it. A large \e.-sel of boil- 
 ing water Ix-ing ready on the fire, put in 
 the breast shell, and when the flutes will 
 separate easily take ihem out of the waler; 
 Iwil the back and bellv in water till the softer 
 parts can \>e taken off easily ; (nit before they 
 are sufficiently done, as they are to be again 
 boiled in the sauce, lay them to cool singly 
 in earthen vessels that they may not stick 
 together, let the bones continue to stew for 
 some time, as the lii|uor must be used for 
 moistening the since*. 
 
 All the (If-sh cut from the body, the four 
 legs and head must be stewed in the following 
 manner. Lay a few slices of ham on the 
 lx>ttom of a large stewpan, and over the ham 
 two or three knuckles of veal, then above the 
 veal, the inside flesh of the turtle, and that 
 of the members over the whole, adding a 
 large bunch of sweet herbs, such as 'Sweet 
 basil, sweet marjoram, lemon tin me, a hand- 
 ful of parsley, and green onions, and a large 
 onion stuck with six cloves, '('hen partly 
 moisten it with the water in which the sliell 
 is boiling, and when it has stewed some 
 time, moisten it again with the liquor in 
 which the back and belly have been lx>iled. 
 When ihe legs are tender, take them out, 
 drain, and put them aside to Ix' afterwards 
 added tn the sauce; and when the flesh is 
 completely done, drain it through a silk sieve, 
 and mix with the . ancc Nimi- very thin white 
 roux; then cut all the softer parts, now 
 sufficiently cold, into pieces about an inch 
 square, add them to the sauce, and let them 
 simmer gently till they can beca.-ily pierced; 
 skim it well. 
 
 Next chop a small quantity of herbs, and 
 boil them with a little sugar in lour Ixmle.-i 
 of Madeira till reduced to two, then rub it 
 through a tammy, mix it with the turtle 
 sauce, and let it boil for a short lime. .Make 
 some forcemeat balls as follows: Cut off 
 ulxmt a pound of meat from the fleshy part 
 of a leg of veal free from sinews or flu, soak 
 in milk about the same quantity of crumbs 
 of bread; when quite soft, squeeze and put 
 it into a mortar, together with the veal, a 
 small quantity of calf's udder, a little butter, 
 the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, a little 
 cayenne, salt and spices; pound the whole 
 very finely, then thicken the mixture with 
 two whole eggs and the yolk of a third, ihrutw 
 a bit into boiling water, and if not sufficiently 
 firm, add the yolk of another egg, and for 
 variety some chopped parsley may Ix: mixed 
 with half of the forcemeat. Let the whole 
 cool so that it may be formed into bulls about
 
 TU R 
 
 229 
 
 VEAL 
 
 the size of the yolk of an egg, poach them in 
 
 boiling water, and add them to the turtle. 
 Before serving, mix a little cayenne with 
 the juice of two or three lemons, .mil ailil it 
 to the soup. It i> nencrtlly preh-rahle to 
 prepare the soup (he day before it is required 
 for use, and it will be Ijesl henle I in a water 
 bath, or Hat vessel containing water, which 
 is always kept very hot, l.nt not allowed to 
 boil. By the same method, sauces, stews, 
 and olher made dishes may ta kept fat. 
 
 When the fins cf the turtle are to IK- served 
 as it side dish, they mast lx> lirst parboiled, 
 then skinned, and stewed in a little turtle 
 sauce, with some Port wine, and 
 with cayenne, salt, and a little lemon-juice, 
 and thickened with butter and Hour. 
 
 Frirandeaux and BlanqueUM may also be 
 made of the flesh of (he turtle, in the same 
 way as those of veal. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP. (2) The day before 
 
 yon dress a turtle, chop the herb--, au;l make 
 the forcemeat ; then, on the preceding eve- 
 ning, siis|eiid the turtle by the (wo hind fins 
 will) a eord ; anil put one round the neck, 
 with a heavy weight attached to it to draw 
 out the neck, that the liead may IK- cut oft' 
 with more ease; lei the turtle hang all ni^ht, 
 in whirl) time the blood u ill !H> well drained 
 from the liody. Then, early ill (he morning, 
 hauni: vnnr M.IM-, and plenty of hot water 
 in readiness, take the turtle, lay it on the 
 table on its back, and with a strong |x>iuicd 
 knife cut all round the under shell, (which is 
 the callipee) ; there are joints at earl) end, 
 which must lie carefully found, gently scpi- 
 mting it from the ralli|>ash (which is the 
 upper shell); IN? careful (hat in culling out 
 the gut yon do not break (he gall. When 
 the calli|XT. and I he callipa.-h are |x-if'-rtly 
 separated, lake out (hat part of the ;nit that 
 leads In. m tin- throat; that, with the three 
 hearts, put into a liasiu of water by them- 
 selves; die olher interior |urt put away. 
 1'ake (he callipee, and cut off the meat 
 which adlieres to it in tour <|iiarters, laying 
 it on a clean dish. Take twenty pmnufs of 
 veal, chop it up, and set it in a large pot, as 
 directed for ttpagnole, (Hitting in tlie flesh 
 of (lie tin lie al ihe same lime, with all kinds 
 of turtle licrljs, carrots, onions, one pound and 
 a half of lean ham, pepper corns, gait, a little 
 spire, and two Iwy leaven, leaving it to stew 
 till it l.tkes the color of etpagnolt; put tlie 
 fins (the skin being scalded off) and IK -at is m. 
 half an hour l-|im- yon (ill it, with half wa- 
 ter, and Ir.ilf href t.toek ; then carefully skim 
 it; put in a bunch of (Ktrsley, and let it boil 
 gently, like consomme. While die lurlk- is 
 slewmi;, raiethllv x-al I (he li'-ad, (he calli- 
 (t of (he callipaxh, at- 
 
 tcnlm-ly obsen ini; to take oil llie -ni.dlr.-t 
 particle of skin I hat may remain ; put l!iem 
 20 
 
 with the gut into a large pot of water to boil 
 till tender; when so, take them out, and nut 
 tiiem in .squares, putting them in a basin by 
 (hi-iiisi-Ues nil wanted for the soup. The 
 next thing is the thickening of the soup, 
 which must IK- prepared in the same manner 
 as sauce lournee. The turtle being well 
 done, takeout the fins and hearts, and lay then) 
 on a dish ; tin- whole of the li(|iior must pasH 
 through a sie\e into a large pan; then, with 
 a ladle, take off all the fat, put it into a ba- 
 sin, then mix in the turtle liquor (a small 
 i|uan(i(y al a lime) with the thickening made 
 the same as sauce tournee; but it does not 
 require to, neither must it be, one twentieth 
 part BO thick ; set it over a brisk fire, and 
 continue stirring till it boils; when it ha* 
 boiled two hours, being skimmed all the 
 while, squeeze it through the tammy into 
 another large stewpan. put it on the fire, and 
 stir it as before, till it boils; when it haff 
 boiled gently for one hour, put in tlie calli- 
 pee and callipash, with the gut, hearts, and 
 some of the best of the meal and head, all 
 cut in squares, with (he forcemeat balls and 
 herbs, which you should have ready chopped 
 and stewed in espagnole; (the h 
 pai>|.-y, lemon ihyme, marjoram, basil, aa- 
 vory, ami a few chopped mushrooms). It 
 innM U- can-fully attended to and .skimmed, 
 and OIK- hour and a half Ix-fore dinner, put in 
 a ixillle of .Ma leira wine, and nearly lialf a 
 bottle of brandy, keeping it continually boil- 
 ing ircutlv, anil skiimnin" it; then take a 
 i i i 
 
 basin, pul a little cayenne pepper into it, 
 
 w illi the juice of six lemons squeezed through 
 a sieve. \Vlieu the dinner is wanted, skim 
 the turtle, stir it well up, and put in a little 
 .-nit, if necessary; tlien stir in the cayenne 
 .rid lemon-jiiii-e, and ladle ii into the tureen. 
 This receipt will answer (or a turtle between 
 lil'ly anil sixty [minds. 
 
 IC-?* For Mock Turtle and ottor 
 Soup, See Soups. 
 
 TWELFTH CAKE ICING. 8<t 
 Icing. 
 
 V. 
 
 VEAL. The names of the joints are m 
 follows: Ixiin, Ix-st end Loin, chump end 
 Fillet Hind Kmickfe Fore knuckle 
 Neck, best end Neck, scrag end Blade 
 bone Breast, best end Brisket end. 
 
 Veal should be fine in the grain, firm, 
 white, and fat, and the leg bone small. The 
 finest calves have the smallest kidney, aiH it* 
 being well covered with thick white fat, in- 
 dicates good veal. The fillet of a cow calf 
 is to be preferred, on account of the udder. 
 Tlie prime joints arc tlie fillet, tlie loin, the
 
 VEAL 
 
 230 
 
 VEAL 
 
 chomp end of the loin, and the best end of 
 the neck. To keep it, the same directions 
 may be followed, which are given for keeping 
 beef. 
 
 When tlie fillet is to be roasted, it should 
 be WB*bed, well dried, and the bone taken 
 oat, and the space tilled with a fine stuffing, 
 part of which should he put under the flap, 
 then formed into a round and firmly skew- 
 ered. That the fire may he dt-aii and strong, 
 it should be made up sometime before putting 
 down the roast, which should at first be 
 placed at some distance from it, and be fre- 
 quently and well basted with butler. When 
 about half roasted, a piece of white paper is 
 tied over the fat; a little before serving, it 
 is remove I, the meat is then sprinkled with 
 salt, dredged with flour, and well Uisled to 
 froth it. When dished, finely melted butter 
 is poured over it, with which mayor may 
 not l mixed some lemon pickle or brown 
 gravy. It is garnished with cut lemon. 
 
 Veal is expected to come to table looking 
 delicately clean; and it is so easily' discol- 
 ored, that you must be careful to have clean 
 water, a clean vessel, and constantly catch 
 the scum as soon and as long as it rises. 
 Send up bacon, fried sausages, or pickled 
 pork, greens, and ]rsley and butter, and 
 onion sauce. 
 
 Veal requires particular care to roast it a 
 nice brown. Let the fire IMJ the same as for 
 beef; a sound large fire for a large joint, and 
 a brisker for a smaller; put it at some dis- 
 tance from the fire to soak thoroughly, and 
 then draw it near to finish it brown. 
 
 When first laid down, it is to be basted; 
 baste it again occasionally. When the veal 
 ig on tiie dish, pour over it half a pint of 
 melted butter: if you have a little brown 
 gravy by you, add that to the butter. With 
 those joints which are not stuffed, send up 
 forcemeat in balls, or rolled into sausages, as 
 garnish to the dish, or fried pork sausages; 
 bacon and greens, are also always expected 
 with boiled veal. 
 
 Fillet of Veal, Of from twelve to sixteen 
 pounds, will require from four to five hours 
 at a good fire; make some stuffing or force- 
 meat, and put it in under the Hap, that there 
 may be some left to eat cold, or to season a 
 hash ; brown it, and pour good melted butter 
 over it. 
 
 (iarnii-h with thin slices of lemon and 
 cakes or balls of stuffing, or duck stuffing, or 
 fried pork sausages, curry sauce, bacon and 
 greens, &c. 
 
 A bit of the brown outside is a favorite 
 with the epicure in roasts. The kidney, cut 
 out, sliced, and broiled, is a high relish, 
 whicji some bans vivants are fond of. 
 
 A Loin, Is the best part of the calf, and 
 will take about three hours roasting. I'a- 
 per the kidney fat, and the back: some 
 
 cooks send it up on a toast, which is eaten 
 with the kidney and ihe fat of this part, 
 which is as delicate as any marrow. If 
 there is more of it than you think will be 
 eaten with the veal, before you roasl it cut 
 it out ; it will make an excellent suet pud- 
 ding; take care lo have your fire long 
 enough to brown the ends; same accom- 
 paniments as above. 
 
 A Shoulder, From three hours to three 
 hours nd a half; stuff it with the force- 
 meat ordered for the fillet of veal, in the 
 under side. 
 
 Neck, best end, Will take two hours; 
 same accompaniments as fillet. The scrag 
 parl is Ix-st made into a pie, or broth. 
 
 Breast, From an hour and a half to two 
 hours. Let the caul remain till it is almost 
 done, then take it off to brown it; baste, 
 flour, and froth it. 
 
 This makes a savory relish for a luncheon 
 or supper: or, instead of roasting, lx>il it 
 enough; put it in a cloth between two pew- 
 ter dishes, uilh a weight on the upper one, 
 and let it remain so till cold; then pare 
 and trim, eg-,', and crumb it, and broil, or 
 warm it in a Dutch oven; serve with it 
 ca|xrs, or wow wow sauce. Breast of 
 mutton may I* dressed the same way. 
 
 VEAL ALAMODE. See Seef Ala- 
 mode. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, STEWED WITH 
 
 GREEN I'KAS. Make a quart of gravy 
 with the scrag end ; strain it; cut the rest 
 of the veal into small pieces of nearly an 
 equal size; put it into a stewpan with the 
 giavy, some pepper, salt, mace, half an 
 ounce of butter, and a quart of green peas. 
 Cover the pan closely, and let it slew nearly 
 two hours; then put in a lettuce cut small, 
 and let it stew half an hour longer. A lit- 
 tle Ix-fore serving, add half an ounce of 
 browned butter, mixed with a little flour. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, BROILED. Half 
 roast and then score it; season it with pars- 
 ley, a few finelv-minced sweet herbs, a lit- 
 tle |>epper and salt, and broil it. Make a 
 sauce with some gravy seasoned with onion, 
 grated nutmeg, mace, salt, and an anchovy; 
 boil and strain it; thicken it with llour and 
 butter. Add some minced capers and small 
 mushrooms ; pour it quite hot over the veal. 
 Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, COLLARED. Bone 
 it, and lay over it a thick layer of force- 
 meat, made with bread cruml>s, chopped 
 oysters, parsley, and grated ham, MMoned 
 with lemon-peel, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 
 mixed with an egg Ijeaten up. Roll and 
 bind it with tape; boil it in a cloth, and put
 
 VEAL 
 
 231 
 
 VEAL 
 
 k on in boiling water ; let it boil gently for 
 three hours. Boil the bones with an onion, 
 at bunch of sweet herbs, salt, and pepper ; 
 strain and thicken it with three table-spoon- 
 fuU of cream, the volks of two egspi beaten 
 up, and a bit of butter mixed with flour. 
 Parboil and slice the sweetbread, dip it 
 into an egg, and strew over it grated bread; 
 fry it with forcemeat balls. Serve the 
 veal with the sauce poured over it. Gar- 
 nish with the sweetbread and forcemeat 
 balls. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, STEWED. (1) Half 
 roast tin- veal till of a light brown, then 
 stew it over a stove for two hours, in a 
 rich gravy, with a shallot, thi-ee cloves, a 
 blade of mace, a little walnut pickle, some 
 oyster liquor, and a few small mushrooms. 
 Half an hour before serving, add a little 
 anchovy liquor. Garnish with cut lemon 
 and curled parsley. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, STEWED. (2) Cm 
 
 out tlie blade bone, and stuff the whole with 
 a nice forcemeat; sew it up, half roast it, 
 and make a quart of gravy of the bones and 
 trimmings; season it with whole pepper, 
 two blades of roace, a bit of lemon-peel, a 
 large onion, some salt, and a bunch of pars- 
 ley. Strain and thicken it with butter roll- 
 ed in flour; put in the veal, and a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar; let it stew nearly two 
 hours. A little before serving, add a table- 
 spoonful of lemon pickle, and a glass of 
 white wine. Forcemeat balls may be serv- 
 ed with it. 
 
 VEAI. HKEAST, STEWKU. (3; On 
 off the short bones or gristles op a breast 
 of veal ; stew them in a little white stock, 
 with a slice of ham, an onion stuck with 
 one or two cloves, some whole pepper, a 
 bunch of parsley, and a little salt. When 
 tender, take out the meat, strain the stock, 
 and put it on with a pint and a half of 
 green peas; boil them, and add the veal, 
 and let them stew for twenty minutes. 
 Serve the gristles in the middle, and the 
 peas round them. 
 
 VEAL BROTH. See Broth. 
 
 VEAL, BROWN ROLLKLOPS. Cut 
 off some thin slices from a fillet of veal, and 
 beat them. Take part of the fat from the 
 loin and kidney : mince it finely with a 
 email bit of veal, and six anchovies; season 
 with salt, pounded ginger, and marc ; put 
 it over tlie slices of veal, and roll them up. 
 Dip them into the beaten yolk of an egg, 
 and then into (grated breacf; repeat this a 
 ecorfd time, and fry them of a nice brown 
 color in clarified beef dripping, then stew 
 
 them in some good gravy, adding a little 
 walnut pickle and half a pint of white wine. 
 
 VEAL CAKE. Take some nice thin 
 slices of veal, and season them with salt, 
 |>epper, and nutmeg, grated; have ready 
 some hant-lxiiled egg?, sliced, and put a 
 layer of these at the bottom of a basin 
 or pan, then a layer of veal, then some slices 
 of ham, over this strew marjoram, thyme, 
 parsley, shred fine, bread crumbs and lemon- 
 peel, chopped small ; then a layer of eggs, 
 veal, ham, &c. and so continue till the pan 
 is filled; pour some good gravy over the 
 whole, cover the pan with coarse brown 
 paper, tie it closely over, and set it to bake 
 in a slow oven; an hour will be sufficient 
 to bake it; when cold, turn it out upon a 
 dish, and serve; garnish with parsley. 
 
 VEAL CAKE, to be eaten cold. Pound 
 in a mortar as much cold roasted lean veal 
 as will fill a small mould, together with a 
 slice of ham, or bacon, a piece of the crumb 
 of bread soaked in cold milk, two beaten 
 eggs, a small bit of butter, die same of shal- 
 lot, or onion ; season with pepper and salt, 
 and mix all well together; butter the mould, 
 fill it, and bake it in ay oven for abmit an 
 hour; turn it out when cold, and cut it into 
 
 lices. 
 ley. 
 
 Garnish with pickled eggs and pars- 
 
 VEAL COLD. Cut some cold veal into 
 thin slices, the size and thickness of a half 
 crown, dip them into the yolk of an egg 
 well beaten, cover them with bread crumbs, 
 sweet herbs, lemon-peel shred fine, and 
 grated nutmeg. Put a little fresh butter in- 
 to a pan, make it quite hot, fry the veal in 
 it, and when done, lay it on a dish by the 
 side of the fire; make a little gravy "of a 
 bone of veal, shake a little flour into the 
 pan, stir it round, add the gravy and a little 
 lemon-juice, pour it over the veal, and gar- 
 nish with lemon. 
 
 VEAL CHOPS, BREADED. Take 
 
 six or seven handsomely cut chops, season 
 them well with salt and pepper, and put them 
 into melted butter; when sufficiently soaked, 
 put them into beaten eggs, take them out, 
 and roll each separately in bread crumbs; 
 make the chops as round as you can with 
 your hand, and lay them on a dish ; w hen 
 all are breaded, broil them slowly over a 
 moderate fire, that the bread may not be too 
 highly colored. Serve with clear gravy. 
 
 VEAL, TO COLLAR. Bone a breast 
 of veal, and beat it flat; cover the inside 
 with a nire stuffing moistened with eggs; 
 roll it very tightly, bind it, and bake it in an 
 oven with some weak stock in the dish.
 
 VEAL 
 
 233 
 
 VEAL 
 
 Make a rich gravy; strain and thicken it, 
 and pour it over the veal. Serve witli or 
 without forcemeat balls, and garnish with 
 cut lemon. It will keep for a long time in 
 a pickle made \viih bran ami water, a little 
 salt, and vinegar, poured cold over it. 
 
 VEAL CONES. Mince small one pound 
 and a half of cold veal, two ounces of butter, 
 and a .slice of lean ham; pound them in a 
 mortar, and mix, in five (able-spoonfuls of 
 cream, two tea -spoonfuls of pepper, one of 
 salt, and some grated lemon-peel. Make it 
 up into cones about three inches high; rub 
 them over with an egg beaten up, sift grated 
 bread over them, and fry them of a light 
 brown color; put fried bread crumbs into 
 the dish, an:l place t!ie cones upon them, or 
 serve ihem with a brown gravy instead of 
 crumbs. Cold fowl, turkey, or rabbit make 
 good cones. Half the ingredients will be 
 sufficient for a corner dish. 
 
 VEAL, COLD DRESSED. Mince 
 finely the fat and lean of cold roast veal, 
 season it with grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, 
 pepper, and salt; moisten it with a little 
 rich white stock, and a Ijeaten egg; butter 
 a pudding, shape, put in the mince, and 
 press it firmly, cover it closely, and set it 
 into a pan of boiling water; let it boil an 
 hour or two. Serve it with a white gravy 
 thickened, or when turned out of the shape, 
 rub it over the top with the beaten yolk of 
 an egg; sift bread crumbs thickly oxer, and 
 brown it in a Dutch oven; baste it with a 
 little melted butter. Garnish with fried 
 parsley or cut lemon. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. (I) Let your cutlets 
 be about half an inch thick; trim them, and 
 flatten them with a cleaver; you may fry 
 them in fresh butler, or good drippings ; when 
 brown on one side, turn them and do the 
 other ; if the fire is very fierce, they must 
 change sides oftener. The time (hey will 
 take depends on the thickness of the cutlet 
 and the heat of the fire; half an inch thick 
 will take about fifteen minutes. Make some 
 gravy, by (Hitting tlie trimmings into a stew- 
 pan with a little soft water, an onion, a roll 
 of leinon-|)eel, a Made of mace, a sprig of 
 thyme and parsley, and a bay leaf; stew 
 over a flow fire an hour, then strain it; put 
 an ounce of butter into a slewpan ; as soon 
 as it is melted, mix with it as much flour as 
 will dry it up, stir it over the fire for a few 
 minutes, then add the gravy by degrees till 
 it is all mixed, lx>il it lor five minutes, 
 and strain it through a tamis sieve, and put 
 it to the cutlets; you may add ,some brown- 
 ing, mushroom, or walnut ketchup, or lemon 
 pickle, &c.: Or, Cut the veal into pieces 
 about as big as a crown-piece, beat them 
 
 with a cleaver, dip them in eggs beat up 
 will) a little silt, and then in fine bread 
 crumbs; fry them a light brown in boiling 
 lard; serve under them some good gravy or 
 mushroom sauce, which may be made in five 
 minutes. Garnish with slices of ham or 
 rashers of bacon, or pork sau- 
 
 Veal forcemeat or stuffing, pork sausages, 
 rashers of bacon, are very relishing accom- 
 paniments, fried and sent up in the form of 
 balls or cakes, and laid round as a garnish. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. (2) Cut a neck of 
 veal into cutlets, or take them off a leg. 
 Season two well-beaten eggs with pounded 
 mace, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and finely-chop- 
 ped sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, and pars- 
 ley; dip the cutlets into it, sift over them 
 grated bread, and fi-y them in clarified butter. 
 Serve with a white sauce, forcemeat lialls, 
 and small mushrooms. Garnish w id) fried 
 purs-ley. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. (3) Cut a neck 
 of veal into thin cutlets, and beat them; 
 brown some butter with an onion and some 
 parsley chopped small. Dip the cutlets into 
 the butler, and then into finely grated bread, 
 seasoned with pepper and salt; broil them 
 of a brown color ; mince the |>eel of half an 
 orange pared very thin ; add it and a grate 
 of ginger to some good thickened gravy, and 
 pour it hot upon the cutlets. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. (4) Cut them off 
 a leg, or from the thick part of a loin of 
 veal; beat them a little with a rolling-pin, 
 and fry them in butter of a light In-own. 
 Take them out of the pan. pour off the tat- 
 ter, and strew over them grated bread, sea- 
 soned with minced parsley and lemon thyme, 
 grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, pep|x>r, and 
 salt. Put them into a stewpan, with a piece 
 of fresh butter, and let them fry slowly (ill of 
 a good brown. Add a quarter of a pint of 
 good gravy, and a small tea-cupful of thick 
 cream; let it be made very hot, frequently 
 shaking the pan. Serve it garnished with 
 cut lemon or forcemeat balls, mushrooms, 
 and false eggs. False eggs are made of the 
 yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, which are 
 rubbed smooth, and then made up with fresh 
 butter into the form of small eggs. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, VENITIAN. Cnt 
 
 into neat cutlets the best part of a neck of 
 veal; trim and flatten them. Chop sepa- 
 rately half a pint of mushrooms, a few shal- 
 lots, and a little |>arsley ; stew tliese aver a 
 slow fire, with a small bit or' butter and a 
 little rasped tiit baron. When done, put in 
 the cutlets, and season them well with pepper 
 and salt, and let them stew over a slow fire 
 till quite tender; skim off the fat, and add
 
 VEAL 
 
 233 
 
 VEAL 
 
 a spoonful of sauce tournee, and the yolks 
 of three eggs beaten with a little cream, llien 
 mix in die juice of a lemon, and a little cay- 
 enne. 
 
 VEAL, FILLET, STEWED. Bone, 
 
 lard, mid stuff a fillet of veal ; hull" roast, and 
 then stew it with two quarts of white stork, 
 a te:i-s|XHinful of lemon pickle and one of 
 mushroom ketchup. Before serving, strain 
 the gravy, thicken it will) Initler rolled in 
 . i a little cayenne, salt, and some 
 pickled mii.-hrooins; heal it, and pour it over 
 I he \e;d. Have ready two or three dozen of 
 forcemeat hall:- to put round it and upon the 
 top. (i.unish with cut lemon. 
 
 VEAL, FLORENTINE. Take two 
 
 veal kidneys, and mince them with their 
 fat, very small, and mix it with a few cur- 
 rants, i ho yolks of four or five eggs, boiled 
 hard, and chopped small, a pippin cut fine, 
 some luead crumb.-, candied lemon-peel, cut 
 small, and season with nutmeg, cl 
 
 little ir.'itintain wine, and some 
 orange-Mower water; line the Ixittom of a 
 dish with a nice pulV|xiMe, put in the above, 
 COMT it wilh pull [Kiste, and set it to bake | 
 in a j-liw oven. 
 
 VEAL FORCEMEAT. Of undressed 
 lean veal (after you have scraped it quite 
 fine, and free from skin and sinews), two 
 :iie same quantity of beef or veal 
 suet, and the same of bread cnimlhi; chop 
 fine two drachms of parsley, one of lemon- 
 peel, one of sweet herbs, one of onion, and 
 half a drachm of mace, or all.-pice, beaten to 
 fine powder; |x>und all together in a mortar; 
 break into it the yolk and white of an egg; 
 rub it all up well lordlier, and mason it with 
 a little |jop|n-r and .-alt. Tin- may U- made 
 more savory by the addition of cold tailed 
 pickled tongue, anchovy, eschalot, cayenne 
 t>r curry powder, &c. 
 
 VEAL.FRICANDEAU. (1) Cut a piece 
 
 of veal from llie leg, the same in width and 
 depth, and about eight inches in length. 
 Make a hole in the under part, and fill it 
 with forcemeat; sew it up, lard the lop and 
 sides, cover it with slices of fat bacon, and 
 then with white paper. Put into a sauce- 
 pan some slices of undressed mutton, three 
 onions and one carrot sliced, a bunch of 
 sweet heilw, an 1 a ijiiart of good stock ; put 
 in the veal, cover the pan closely, and let it 
 stew for three hours. Take out tl)e veal, 
 train the ijr.ivv, and take off all the fat; 
 add a lal.le-spooriful of lemon pickle, and 
 three of white wine; Ixiil it quirk toa glase; 
 keep the li : an : m "ver hot water and cov- 
 ered, then claw it, and serve with the rest 
 20* 
 
 of the glaze poured round it, and sorrel sauce, 
 in a sauce tureen. 
 
 VEAL, FRICANDEAU. (2) Cut some 
 slices of veal, lard them all through, and put 
 them into a saucepan with some wh 
 and a bit of ham, one onion, a little mace 
 and pep|XT. {Stew them gently an hour and 
 a half; take lliem out, strain the :;tav\, and 
 take off all the fat; boil it up quickly, lay in 
 the frit-andean, and stew them till the liquor 
 Incomes like a brown jelly; lake care they 
 do not bum. Scald in Imiling water three 
 handfub of sorrel, chop it, take out the meat, 
 and make the sorrel hot in the sauce, and 
 serve the fi icandeau upon it. 
 
 \T.\I.. riMCANDEAU. (3) Chop very 
 finelv one pound of the lean of a loin of veal, 
 and half a pound of the kidney fat; season 
 it with pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, the 
 juice of one lemon, and a finely-shred an- 
 chovy. Soak, in boiling milk, two rusks, 
 or biscuits, and mix it all well together; 
 make it into balls, with a little flour. Fry 
 iliem of a light brown, in butter, then stew 
 them in some highly-ieasoned gravy, dish 
 them carefully, and strain the gravy over 
 tin-in, (iarnish with cut lemon. 
 
 VEAL, FRICANDEAU. (4) Take the 
 round or part of tlie round of a fillet^ fry it 
 in butter, of a nice brown, with onions cut 
 in dices, and a little garlic, then set il to 
 stew in some very rich gravy or cullis: when 
 lender, t.ike it out, thicken the gravv with 
 flour, add a little lemon-juice, and* serve 
 this sauce over the veal. 
 
 VEAL FRITTERS. Cut the remain 
 of a tender piece of veal into small, thin, 
 round piece*; dip these into a good batter, 
 and fry them in the usual way, in oil. When 
 done, drain, sprinkle salt over, and serve 
 them. 
 
 VEAL, HASHED OR MINCED. To 
 make a hash cut the meat into slices; to 
 .,in. -i. I \cal, mince it as fine as 
 pos.-ihlo (do not chop it); put il into a stew- 
 pan with a few sp lonfuls of veal or mutton 
 broth, or make some with the bones and 
 trimmings, as ordered for veal outlets, a little 
 boon-pad minced fine, a spoonful of milk or 
 cream; thicken with luitter and flour, and 
 season it with salt, a labk--s|x M infill of lemon 
 pickle, or Kne\\ wine, or a pinch of curry 
 powder. 
 
 If you have no cream, beat up the yolks 
 of a couple of e;",-s with a little milk: line 
 the dish with sip|<otsof lightly toasted bread. 
 
 Mi'.iced veal makes a very pretty dish put 
 into scollop shells, and bread crumbed over,
 
 VEAL 
 
 234 
 
 VEAL 
 
 and sprinkled with a little Imtter, and brown- 
 ed in a Duicli ovgn, or a cheese-toaster. 
 
 VEAL, KEBOBBED. Cut into thin 
 bits the size of a crown-piece some lean veal ; 
 season them with tnmeric, |>epper, and sail. 
 Slice onions very thinly, and some garlic: 
 put the slices of veal and onion upon a skewer, 
 together with thin bits of pickled pork. Fry 
 them brown with butler, and garnish with 
 plenty of fi ied parsley. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE, RAGOUT. Cut 
 
 a knuckle of veal into slices about half an 
 inch thick; pep|>er, .salt, and flour them; 
 fry them a light brown ; put the trimmings 
 into a stewpan, with the done broke in sev- 
 eral places; an onion sliced, a head of cele- 
 ry, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two blades 
 of bruised mace: pour in warm water enough 
 to cover them about an inch; cover the pot 
 close, and let it stew very gently for a couple 
 of hours; drain it, and then thicken it with 
 flour and butter ; put in a spoonful of ketch- 
 up, a glass of ( wine, and juice of half a lemon ; 
 give it a boil up, and strain into a clean 
 stewpan ; put in the meat, make it hot, 
 and serve up. 
 
 Obs. If celery is not to be had, use a 
 carrot instead or flavor it with celery seed. 
 
 VEAL KNUCKLE, STEWED WITH 
 RICE. As boiled knuckle of veal cold is 
 not a very favorite relish with the generality, 
 cut off some steaks from it, which you may 
 dress as in the foregoing receipt, and leave 
 the knuckle no larger than will be eaten the 
 day it is dressed. Break the shank bone, 
 wash it clean, and put it in a large stewpan 
 with two quarts of water, an onion, two 
 blades of mace, and a tea-s|>oonful of sail : 
 set it on a quick fire ; when it boils, take 
 off all the scum. Wash and pick a quarter 
 of a pound of rice; put it into the slewpan 
 with the meat, and let it stew very gently 
 for about two hours: put the meat, &c. in a 
 deep dish, and the rice round it. Send up 
 lcon with it, parsnips, or greens, and finely 
 minced parsley and butter. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE, SOUP. A knuckle 
 of veal of six pounds, weight, will make a 
 large tureen of excellent soup, and is thus 
 easily prepared: cut half a pound of bacon 
 into slices about half an inch thick, lay it at 
 the bottom of a soup-kettle, or deep siewpan, 
 and on this place the knuckle of veal, having 
 first chopped the bone in two or three places 
 furnish it with two carrots, two turnips, a 
 head of celery, two large onions, with two 
 or three cloves stuck in one of tho.:n, :i doy.cn 
 corns of black, and the same of Jamaica 
 pepper, and a good bundle of lemon thyme, 
 winter savory, and parsley. Just cover the 
 
 meat with cold water, and set it over a quick 
 fire till it boils; having skimmed it well, 
 remove your soup-kettle to the side of tl>e 
 fire ; let il stew very gently till it is quite 
 tender, i. e. alxnit four hours ; then take out 
 the bacon and veal, strain the soup, and set 
 it by in a cool place till yon want it. when 
 yon must take off the fat from the surface of 
 your liquor, and decant it (keeping back the 
 settlings at the bottom) into a clean pan. 
 
 If you like a thickened .soup, put three ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of the fat von have laken off the 
 soup into a small steu ( >.tn, and mix it with 
 four table-spoonfuls of tlour, pour a ladleful 
 of soup to it, and mix it with the rest by de- 
 grees, and boil it up till it is smooth. 
 
 Cut the meat and gristle of the knuckle 
 and the bacon into mouthftils, and put them 
 into the soup, and let them get warm. 
 
 You may make this more savory by ad- 
 ding ketchup, &c. Shin of beef may be 
 dressed in the same way; see Knuckle of 
 Veal stewed with Rice. 
 
 VEAL LEG IN SURPRISE. Lard 
 the veal with slips of bacon, and a little 
 lemon-peel cut very thin ; make stuffing the 
 same as for a fillet of veal, only mix with it 
 half a pint of oysters chopped small, and 
 .stuff your veal with this, and put it to stew 
 with just sufficient water to cover it; let it 
 stew very gently till quite tender; then take 
 it up; skim off the fat from the liquor, 
 and add some lemon-juice, some mushroom 
 ketchup, the crumb of a roll grated fine, half 
 a pint of oysters, a pint of cream, and a bit 
 of butler rolled in Hour; let this sauce thick 
 en over the fire, and serve it over the veal ; 
 garnish the dish with oysters, dipped in 
 butter, and fried, and thin slices of toasted 
 bacon. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED. Cut thin slices of 
 lean cold veal; mince them verv finely with 
 a knife, and season with pepper, salt, grated 
 lemon-peel and nutmeg; put it into a sauce- 
 pan, with a little while stock or water, a 
 table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a little 
 mushroom powder. Simmer, but do not let 
 it boil; add a bit of butter rolled in flour, 
 and a little milk or cream; put all round 
 the dish thin sippets of bread cut into a 
 three-cornered shape; or cover the mince 
 thickly with grated bread, seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and a little butter, and brown 
 it with a salamander; or serve with poached 
 eggs laid upon the top. 
 
 VEAL OLIVES. Cut thin slices off a 
 fillet, and flatten them with a roller; season 
 them highly will) pepper, mace, salt, and 
 grated lemon-peel; put a bit of fat into each 
 roll, and tie them with a thread. Fry them 
 of a light brown, and stew them in some
 
 VEAL 
 
 235 
 
 VEAL 
 
 white stock with two dozen of fried oysters, 
 a glass of white wine, a table-spoonful of 
 lemon pickle and some small mushroom*. 
 Stew ilicin nearly an hour; take off the 
 threads befiire serving. 
 
 Beef olives may be dressed in the same 
 way. 
 
 VEAL PATTIES. Mince some under- 
 ilone veal with a little parsley, one or two 
 
 sai.'f leave-, ;i MTV little onion ; season with 
 grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pep|>cr, and salt ; 
 add some Dialed lean ham or tongue, moisten 
 it with some good gravy, heat it up, and put 
 it into the patties. 
 
 VEAL AND HAM PATTIES. Chop 
 alxiiit six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal, 
 and three ounces of ham very small; put it 
 into a stew pan with an ounce of butter roll- 
 ed into riiinr, half a ^'ill of cream; half a 
 (ill of veal -t..ek ; a little grated mi' 
 HDOO-fWel, SOUK' e 'venne pepper and salt, a 
 .|Xhiiitiil of essence of ham and lemon-juice, 
 and stir it over the fire sometime, taking 
 care it does not burn. 
 
 VKU, AM) HAM PIE. Take two 
 pounds of veal ciulels, cut them in middling- 
 sized pi. . iih [M'pper and a very 
 
 f law or dressed 
 
 ham cut in slii -, l.iv ii alternately in the 
 dish, ami put some forced or sausage meat 
 ,i, with some stewed button mu-h- 
 rooins, and tin- \olks of three eggs boiled 
 liard, ami a u'lll of water; then proceed as 
 with rump-sleak pir. 
 
 N. 1!. The I >est end of a neck i* the fine 
 part lor a pie, cut into clio|xs, and the chine 
 bone taken aw.ij . 
 
 Vi: \L PIE. (1) Cut a neck of veal into 
 neat steaks, season them well with white 
 pepper, salt, mace, and grated n'ltmcg mix- 
 ed ; park them closely into a dish, and put 
 in hall' a pint of white stock; live haid-l>oi!- 
 6(1 yolks of ejjgs may In- added; put [Miff 
 paste mi the edge of the ili.-h, and cover with 
 the same. Laml>s' Mi's may be made into a 
 pie, w iiii lamb chops seasoned in the same 
 
 VI. \I, PIE. (2) Cut into steaks a 
 loin or hrea-t of v. -,d. season them highly 
 with pep|N-r, sail, grated nutmeg, m 
 a little lemon-p-el mix"d; lay them into 
 the Ixittom of a di-ii, and then n few slices 
 of sweetbread* seasoned with tin- spiei; 
 add Sume oyster.-, forcemeat lull-, and hard- 
 boiled yolks of eggs half a pint of while 
 Mock, a glass of while wine, and a table- 
 spoon fu I <f lemon | irklc; put pntF paste on 
 the edge of the dish, ami rover with l]>e 
 same; buke it for one h m . 
 
 VEAL PIE. (3) Chop, but not very 
 small, the meat of a cold loin of veal, season 
 it with minced parsley, pepper, salt, grated 
 lemon-|>ecl, and nutmeg; add rather more 
 than half a pint of stock made with the 
 bones, thickened with a bit of butter rolled 
 ' in flour, and seasoned with a tea-spoonful 
 of lemon pickle, and a table-spoonful of 
 while wine; make a paste of the fat of the 
 loin, and an e<]iial quantity of tlour, rub it 
 together, and mix with it a little cold writer, 
 roll it out two or three times, line the sides 
 of the dish, put in the meat, and cover it. 
 
 VEAL PIE, SOLID. Stew in veal 
 stock, till it be perfectly tender and like a 
 jelly, a piece of a knuckle of veal, with the 
 gristles adhering to it; let it cool, and then 
 pull the meat and gristles into small bita; 
 Imttcr a pie dish or shape, and lay at regular 
 distances some hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 
 and some of the white part cut into rin^s 
 or strips; then put over some bits of tin; 
 meat and gristle, and strew over it some 
 pep|>er, salt, and grated nutmeg mixed, and 
 a little of the gravy, and then more < 
 with small bits of beet root, green pkl 
 and tl>e red part of a carrot cut to fancy; 
 add more meal seasoning, and all tlie gravy; 
 when tlie shape is full, put it into an oven 
 for twenty minutes, and when quite cold 
 turn it out. If rightly done, it will have a 
 glazed appearance, and the variety of col- 
 ors look well by candle light. 
 
 VEAL, POTTED. Cut slices off a teg 
 of veal, and season them with pcp|>er, pound- 
 ed mace, cloves, and salt. Lay thin slices 
 of fiesh butter l>etween each layer of meat 
 into a potting pan or jar; cover it closely, 
 and liake it with bread. When it is cold, 
 |H>nnd the meat in a marble mortar, (Kick it 
 into a jar, and pour clarified butter 
 over it. 
 
 VEAL, COLD, A\ EXCELLENT 
 
 U \< ;< M'T. Either a neck, loin, or fillet of 
 veal, will furnish this excellent ragout with 
 a very little expense or trouble. 
 
 Cut the veal into handsome cutlets ; put 
 a piece of tauter or clean dripping into a 
 i! \ I'M-pan ; as soon as it is hot, Hour and 
 Ii v the veal of a light brown: take it out, 
 and if you have no i;ia\\ n-ady, make some 
 as directed under sauces, or put a pint of 
 boiling water into the frying-pan, give it a 
 boil up tor a minute, and strain it into a 
 basin while yon make some thickening in 
 the follow ing manner: put about an ounce 
 of butter into a stew pan; as soon as it nielis, 
 mix with it .1- nmrli (lour as will dry it up; 
 stir it over the fiie for a few minutes, and 
 gradually add to it the gravy yon made in 
 tlie living-pan; let them simmer together
 
 VEAL 
 
 236 
 
 VEG 
 
 for ten minutes (till thoroughly incorjxirat- 
 ed) ; season it with pep|>er, salt, a little 
 mace, and a wine-glassful of mushroom 
 ketchup or wine; strain it through a tarnis 
 to the meat, and stew very gently till the 
 meat is thoroughly wanned. If you have 
 any ready-boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and 
 put it in to warm with the meat. 
 
 VEAL ROLL. Bone a small breast of 
 veal, and spread over it a rich and highly- 
 seasoned forcemeat. Cut four hard-boiled 
 eggs the long way into four pieces, and lay 
 them in rows, with green pickles between 
 each row. Roll up the veal tightly, and 
 sew it; then put it into a cloth, and bind it 
 with tape. Lay a slice of ham over it, and 
 put it into a saucepan, together with some 
 strong stock, and a little whole pepper, and 
 etew it for three hours. Make a rich gru- 
 vy, and boil it up with a little white wine 
 and lemon-juice or lemon-pickle; po ir it 
 over the veal ; add some egg and forcemeat 
 balls, and garnish with cut green pickles. 
 Thi- dish is very good when cold. 
 
 VEAL SAUSAGES. Take equal quan- 
 tities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful 
 of sage, and a few anchovies. Beat all in 
 a mortar, and season well with pepper and 
 salt ; when wanted for use, roll and fry it, 
 and serve either with fried sippets, or on 
 stewed vegetables, or white collops. 
 
 VEAL SEMELLES. Cut part of a 
 fillet of veal into slices an inch thick, season 
 them with salt and pepper, and give them a 
 few turns in a little butter, with a bay leaf. 
 Lay at the bottom of a deep saucepan a very 
 thin slice of bacon, and on it one of the 
 slices of veal, and continue to lay them in 
 alternately, until the whole are used, then 
 add a glass of water and some bay leaves ; 
 close the saucejian very tight, first putting 
 a sheet of pajier over the meat ; stew it on 
 hot ashes for four or five hours; take care 
 to keep the fire up to the same point all the 
 time. 
 
 VEAL STOCK. Cut a leg of veal and 
 some lean ham into pieces, put them into 
 a saucepan, with a quart of water, some 
 carrots, turnips, onions, Iccks, and celery; 
 stew them down till nearly done, but do not 
 let it color; then add a sufficient quantity 
 of beef stock to cover the ingredients, and 
 let it boil for an hour; skim olT all the fat, 
 and strain it ; a little game slewed down 
 with the above will greatly improve the fla- 
 vor; be particularly careful that it does not 
 burn. 
 
 VEAL SWEETBREADS ROASTED. 
 Trim off the tough part, and blanch for three 
 
 minules in a stevvpan of water, with a little 
 salt, three Iwart sweetbreads, then tiikethem 
 out, and put them into a basin of cold water 
 till cool ; have an egg beat up in a di.-h, some 
 bread cruml>s, and clarified butter, run a 
 skewer through the sweetbread*, and fasten 
 them on the spit; egg them all over, shake 
 some bread crumbs over, then sprinkle clari- 
 fied butter over, and then bread crumbs 
 again; put them down to roast again for a 
 quarter of an hour, then take them off the 
 skewer, and serve them on a dish over a little 
 butter sauce, mixed with a spoonful c.f yravy, 
 a small bit of glaze, and a squeeze of lernon- 
 juice; let it be hot, but not lx>iling, and 
 thin oughly well mixed before it is served 
 under the sweetbreads. 
 
 VEGETABLES. There is nothing in 
 which the difference between an elegant and 
 an ordinary table is more wen than in the 
 dressing of vegetables, more especially greens. 
 They may be equally as fine at first, at one 
 place as at another; but their look and 
 taste are afterward very different, entirely 
 from the careless way in which they have 
 been cooked. 
 
 They are in greatest perfection when in 
 greatest plenty, i. e. when in (iill soa.-oti. 
 
 By season, I do not mean those early days, 
 that luxury in the buyers, and aval ice in tho 
 sellers, force . the vegetables; but that time 
 of the year in which by nature and common 
 culture, and the mere operation of the sun 
 and climate, they are in most plenty and 
 perfection. 
 
 As to the quality of vegetables, the middle 
 size are preferred to the largest or the small- 
 est; they are more tender, juicy, and full 
 of flavor, just before thev are quite full-grown. 
 Freshness is their chief value and excellence, 
 and I should as stwn think of roasting an 
 animal alive, as of boiling a vegetable after 
 it is dead. 
 
 The eye easily discovers if they have been 
 kept too long ; they soon lose their beauty in 
 all respects. 
 
 Roots, greens, salads, &c. and the various 
 productions of the garden, when first gather- 
 ed, are plump and firm, and have a fragrant 
 freshness no art can give them again, \\ eu 
 thev have lost it by long keeping; ii 
 will refresh them a little to put them into 
 cold spring water for sometime before they 
 are dressed. 
 
 To boil them in soft water will preserve 
 the color best of such as are green; if you 
 have only hard water, put to it a tea-spoon- 
 fnl of carbonate of potash. ' 
 
 Take care to wash and cleanse them 
 thoroughly from dust, dirt, and insects: this 
 requires great attention. Pick off all the 
 outside leaves, trim them nicely, and, if not 
 quite fresh gathered and have become flaccid,
 
 VE G 
 
 237 
 
 VEG 
 
 it is absolutely necessary to restore their 
 - before cooking tlietn, or they will 
 be ton^h and unpleasant: l;iy them in a pan 
 of clean water. x\illi a handful of salt in it, 
 for an hour before \mi dress tlx-ni. 
 
 They should always l*> Ixiiled in a sauce- 
 jn by themselves, and have plents <!' water; 
 if moat is boiled with them in I hi/ same pot, 
 they will spoil ihr look and teate of each other. 
 
 It' you wish to have vegetables delicately 
 cli an, put on \our |)ot, make it Ixiil, put a 
 little salt in il, anil skim it |x-ileetU clean 
 Ijefore you put in the green<, ^r.; which 
 should not lie put in till the water Ixiils brisk- 
 ly: the quicker they lioil, the livelier they 
 will l>c. When thevcgetable< sink, tJley are 
 generally done enough, if tin- water lias been 
 kept constantly Ixiiliiiij. Take them up im- 
 mediately, or liny will lose their color and 
 goodness. Drain the water from them 
 thoroughly before you send them to table. 
 
 This branch of cookery requires the most 
 vigilant alien! ion. 
 
 If vegetables are a minute or two too long 
 over the (ire, they lose all their beauty and 
 flavor. 
 
 If not thoroughly boiled tender, they are 
 tremendously indigestible, and much more 
 troublesome diirii.ir their residence in the 
 Btomach, than under-done meats. 
 
 Once for all, take care your vegetables 
 are fre-h: lor as the fishmonger often suffers 
 for the gins of tlie rook, so (he cook often 
 gets undeservedly blamed instead of the 
 green -grocer. 
 
 Stroii.- _ . tables should be kept 
 
 apart; leeks, or celery, laid among cauli- 
 flowers, kc. will quickly s|x>il them. 
 
 Succulent vegetables are best preserved in 
 a cool, shady, and damp plape. 
 
 Potatoes, turnijw, carrots, ami similar 
 root-;, intended to U: stored up, should never 
 l)e cleaned from the earth adhering to them, 
 till they are to be dressed. 
 
 They must be protected from the action 
 of the air ami frost, by laving them in heaps, 
 l)ur\ini; them in -and or earth, &c., or cov- 
 ering them with str.iw or mats. 
 
 When vegetable* are quite fresh gathered, 
 they will ii"i require so much boiling, by at 
 least a third of the time, aa wlien they have 
 been gathered the usual time of those that 
 arc brought to public markets. 
 
 Vegetables are always best wlien newly 
 gathered, and should be brought in from the 
 garden early in the morning; they will then 
 have a fragrant freshnov, which they lose by 
 
 keeping. 
 
 Tin \ must be cleaned with tlie greatest 
 care, tiie outside leaves of ever)- description 
 of greens removed, and they, and all* other 
 vegetables, more nrtieularK when not re- 
 cently gathered, should lie laid for several 
 Uotirs in cold water, and well shaken to 
 
 throw out the insects. A ten-spoonful of 
 salt should always ! put into the water in 
 which they are to be boiled, and if it is hard, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt of tartar, or (mtash, 
 may be added to preserve tlie green color of 
 the vegetables. 
 
 All vegetables should be boiled quickly, 
 and, with the exception of spinach, in an 
 open vessel, skimming them carefully. 
 
 Kitchen u'nrns should be kept in a cool 
 and shady place. Potatoes, carrot?, turnips, 
 and beet root should be stored up, without 
 being cleaned from the earth adhering to 
 them, in layers of sand, or laid in heaps, and 
 covered with earth and straw. Parsnips and 
 skirrets not being injured by frost, are gen- 
 erally left in tlie ground, and taken up aa 
 wanted. Onions are stored in a warm, dry 
 place, never in a cellar; they are sometimes 
 strung in bunches, and suspended from the 
 roof, and, more effectually to prevent tlieir 
 growing, some people select the finest bulbs, 
 and singe tlie roots with a hot iron. 
 
 Herbs of all sorts should be gatliered when 
 in flower, ami on a dry day, and being well 
 cleaned from dust and dirt, tliey are tied up 
 in small bunches, and dried before tlie fire in 
 a Dutch oven. They may then be kept in 
 paper bags labelled ; or rubbed to a powder, 
 sifted, and put into bottles. 
 
 VEGETABLE ESSENCES. The fla- 
 vor of tho various sweet and savory herbs 
 may be obtained by combining their essen- 
 tial oils with rectified spirit of wine, in the 
 proportion of one drachm of the former to 
 two ounces of the latter, or by picking the 
 leaves, and laying them for a couple of 
 hoars in a warm place to dry, and then fill-, 
 ing a large-mouthed bottle with them, and! 
 pouring on them wine, brandy, proof spirit, 
 or vinegar, and letting them steep for four- 
 teen da\s. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW, IB fit for 
 
 use when about the size of a turkey's egg. 
 After being washed clean, it is put on in 
 boiling water, with a little salt, and when 
 tender, it is drained from the water, rut into 
 half, and served on toasted bread, over 
 which some melted butter has been poured. 
 Or, after being boiled in milk and water, 
 they may be fricasseed as Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, or stewed like cucumbers. 
 
 VEGETABLES STEW. Pick and 
 wash very clean as much spinach as wifl 
 make a tlish ; mince finely three small on- 
 ions, pick and el nip two handful* of parsley; 
 put all into a saucepan, with rather more 
 than half a pint of gravy, a bit of butter 
 dusted with lloiir, a little salt and pepper. 
 < 'i.\rr the pan closely, stir it now and then, 
 and when the spinach ' tender, mash it
 
 VEN 
 
 238 
 
 VEN 
 
 smooth, serve it with slices of broiled ham, 
 or with sausages. 
 
 VELOUTE. Take the cuttings and re- 
 mains of any joints of veal and fowl you 
 maj have in the house, of which take four 
 pounds, and put into a large stewpan, with 
 some carrots, onions, parsley, scallions, 
 three I>ay-leave8, three cloves, and a ladle- 
 fol of stock; put your stewpan on a fierce 
 fire, skim it well, and take care that the 
 meat docs not stick; when sufficiently re- 
 duced, add as much stock as will nearly fill 
 the stewpan, salt it well; give it a noil, 
 skim it, and then put it on the side of the 
 fire to simmer for two hours; after which 
 strain it through a tammy. Make a white 
 rottx, stir into it for ten minutes a few 
 champignons, then pour on it, a little at a 
 time, the ubove liquor; let it boil up once, 
 skim it, and set it again by the side of the 
 fire lor an hour and a half: take off all the 
 fat, str.iin it again, and then out it by for 
 use. Take care that the veloute is not in 
 the least colored, as, the whiter it is the 
 better. 
 
 VENISON. The choice of venison 
 should be regulated by the appearance of 
 the fat, which, when the venison is young, 
 looks thick, clear, and close; as it begins 
 to change first towards the haunches, run a 
 knife into that part; if tainto! \on will 
 perceive a rank smell, and it will have a 
 green or blackish appearance. 
 
 If you wish to preserve it, you may by 
 careful management and watching, keep it 
 fora fortnight by the following method: wash 
 it well with milk and water very clean, and 
 dry it pei fectly with cloths until there is not 
 the Ic'a.-t damp remaining, then dust pound- 
 ed ginger over every part ; this is a good 
 preventive against the fly. When to be 
 dressed, wash it with a little lukewarm 
 water, and dry it. Pepper should also be 
 added to keep it. 
 
 VENISON COLLOPS. These are 
 
 dressed in the same manner as mince col- 
 lops of beef, only that, in place of the sea- 
 soning of tlie collops of beef, they have a 
 little pepper, salt, and some Port wine. 
 
 VENISON, HASHED. (1) If yon have 
 enough of its own gravy left, it is preferable 
 to any to warm it up in : if not, take some 
 of the mutton gravy, or the lx>nes and trim- 
 mings of the joint (after you have cut off all 
 the handsome slices you can to make the 
 hash) ; put these into some water, and stew 
 them gently for an hour; then put some but- 
 ter into a stewpan; when melted, put to it 
 us much flour as will dry up the butter, and 
 Btjr it well together; add to it by degrees 
 
 tlie gravy yon have been making of the trim- 
 mings, and some red currant jelly ; give k a 
 lioil up; skim it; strain it through a sieve, 
 and it is ready to receive the venison: put it 
 in, and let it just get warm: if you let it 
 boil, it will make the meat hard. 
 
 VENISON, HASHED. (2) Warm it 
 in its own gravy; if there is no fat left, take 
 some slices of mutton fat, set it on the fire 
 with a little Port wine and sugar, and let it 
 simmer till dry; then add it to the hash. 
 
 VENISON, HASHED. (3) Takesome 
 
 anchovies, boil them till they are dissolved, 
 then add some oysters with their liquor, a 
 little milk, some red wine, and a little ketch- 
 up; put in your venison, let it warm in this, 
 but do not let it boil, and serve it with fried 
 sippets, and the sauce &c. over it. 
 
 VENISON, MOCK. Hang up, for 
 several days, a large fat loin of mutton ; then 
 bone it, and take off all the kidney fat, and 
 the skin from the upper fat; mix together 
 two ounces of brown sugar, and one ounce 
 of ground black pepper. Rub it well into 
 the mutton ; pour over it two or three wine- 
 glasses of Port wine; keep it covered with 
 the skin; rub and turn it daily for five days. 
 When to be roasted, cover it with the skin, 
 and paper it the same way as venison is 
 dono Aorvo it u-ith made gravy, and the 
 same sauces as for venison. 
 
 VENISON PASTY. (1) Cut a neck or 
 breast into small steaks, nib them over with 
 a seasoning of sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt; fry them slightly in butter; 
 line the sides and edges of a dish with puff 
 paste, lay in the steaks, and add half a pint 
 of rich gravy made with the trimmings of 
 the venison ; add a glass of Port wine, and 
 the juice of half a lemon, or tea-spoonful of 
 vinegar; cover the dish with puff paste, and 
 bake it nearly two hours; some more gravy 
 may be poured into the pie before serving it. 
 
 VENISON PASTY. (2) Trfke a neck, 
 shoulder, or breast of venison, that has not 
 hung too long; bone them, trim off all the 
 skin, and cut it into pieces two inches square, 
 and put them into a stewpan, with three 
 gilla of Port wine, two onions, or a few 
 eschalots sliced; some pepper, salt, three 
 blades of in, ice, about a dozen allspice, and 
 enough veal broth to cover it; put it over a 
 glow fire, and let it stew till three parts done; 
 put the trimmings into another saucepan, 
 cover it will) water, and set it on a fire. 
 Take ait the pieces yon intend for the pasty, 
 ami put them into a deep dish with a little 
 of their liquor, and set it by to cool ; then 
 add the remainder of the liquor to the bones
 
 VER 
 
 239 
 
 VIN 
 
 and trimmings, and Ixiil it till the party is 
 ready; then cover (Ire pasty with paste, orna- 
 mpnt the top, anil bake it lor two houis in a 
 slow oven; and before it is sent to table, 
 pour in a ,-ance inadi; with tl>e giavy tlie^ 
 venison was slewed in, strained and skimmed 
 free from fat; some pepper, salt, half a gill 
 of Port, (In- juice oflialf a lemon, and a little 
 flour and butler to tliirken it. 
 
 \IMS()\ FIE OR PASTY. All 
 
 kinds of UK MI intended t' pies and pasties 
 must lie highly spiced when served hot, and 
 still more highly spiced when served cold; | 
 but the seasoning must be regulated by judg- 
 ment and taste. Take one or two breasts 
 of venison, (.iccording to the size you wish 
 to make your pie or pa-ty ), bone it thorough- 
 ly, l>cai it v- i\ lint, aiul lard it through and 
 through with lardona, well seasoned witli all 
 sorts of spires, anI svv eet hell is finely chop- 
 ped; roll it up as tight as possible, and tie 
 it up w ilh strong twine. Put into a stewpan 
 the bones and trimmings of the venison, w ith 
 can of.-. .-|,,ve of gai li.-, 
 
 thyme, bay -leaf, |jep|'i -corns, and allspice, 
 and let all >tcvi till nearl\ dry ; fill it up with 
 equal qua nl! lie- ol ' I !' . >i mutton biaise, and 
 water, which !e' l...il very gently till done, 
 then put in the roll i>f vm-i>n ; put paper on 
 tlie top, cover veiy clo.-c, and let it Mew 
 gently with (ire over and under. When 
 sufficiently done, take it off the lire, and lei 
 it stand in tlie liquor until neailv cold; then 
 pre|>are a plain paste of lour pounds of lloni to 
 one pound of butter, the same as for i 
 pie, but instead of making it stiff, mix it as 
 soft as possible; lay part of this paste as 
 thick as yon well can round the edge of the 
 dish; cut off the. twine from tlie venison, 
 ckin, and lay it in tlie dish, and pour - 
 of the gravy it h;ui stewed in; put on the 
 cover, trim it very neatly, make a hole in 
 the top, do it over with egg, and bake it in 
 a moderate oven fir three or four honis; 
 reduce tlie remainder of the liquor it waa 
 slewed in, and when the pie is baked, |>onr 
 it in; serve it cold. The pasty can scarcely 
 be made too thick. 
 
 VERMICELLI, QUEEN'S Blanch 
 bout a quarter of a pound of vermicelli in 
 boiling water, drain it, and throw it into 
 Rome rich well-eeaaoncd stock ; when lender, 
 take it out of the soup, ami put it into the 
 tureen; thicken the sonp with eight well- 
 beaten e-;<, mixed with half a pint of cream. 
 ami pour it, wlwa ij'iite hot, upon the \- 
 
 V HUM l< T.I.LI IN MILK. Boil the 
 quantity ol milk yon may require, and put 
 into it half a pound of vermicelli peeled, and 
 sufficient quantity of sugar ; stir it frequent- 
 
 ly that the vermicelli may not form a paste: 
 half an hour will be long enough to boil it. 
 A little almond milk may be added when 
 ready for table. 
 
 VERMICELLI PUDDING. (1) Boil 
 
 a quarter of a pound of vermicelli with a 
 little cinnamon, in a quart of milk; in the 
 meantime mix a quarter of a pound of melt- 
 ed butter w ith a pint of cream, and the yolks 
 of four eggs; pour in the vermicelli when 
 quite soft ; add a little flour and lieef mar- 
 row, and powder sugar to the taste ; beat alt 
 up for half an hour, tie it in a Homed cloth, 
 and boil it. 
 
 /VERMICELLI PUDDING. (2) Boil 
 
 four ounces of vermicelli in a pint of new 
 milk, until quite tender, with a stick or two 
 of cinnamon. Then add half a pint of thick 
 cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
 quarter ol a pound of sugar, and the yolks 
 of four eggs, thoroughly beaten; lay the 
 above in a dish and bake. 
 
 VERMICELLI SOUP. Take as much 
 good stock as yon require for your tureen, 
 strain, and set it on the fire, and when it 
 boils, put in the vermicelli, and let it simmer 
 for half an hour by a .-low tire, that tlie ver- 
 micelli may not IIIIIM; the soup ought not to 
 l>e \e. \ iliirk. Half a pound is sufficient 
 for eight or ten persons. 
 
 VINEGAR. Thisisan acid liquor.pre- 
 pared by a second fermentation from various 
 liquois. such as wine, cider, perry, beer, 
 mead, skimmed milk, &c. But tin; most 
 common method of making it, in England, 
 is from malt, and the process is as follows: 
 infuse a quantity of malt in hot water for an 
 hour and a half, then pour it into a cooler. 
 Aa Koon as the infusion is sufficiently cold, 
 put it into deep tuns, add yeast to it, and 
 leave it to ferment for lour or five days ; after 
 which put the liquor into barrels, in a room 
 healed w ith stoves, so that a moderate warmth 
 may be kept up for six weeks, and the fer- 
 mentation continue regularly. By tlie end 
 of that time the whole will be completely 
 ."onred. am! must now be changed into other 
 barrels; lay a tile on tlie bung-holes to keep 
 out tlie wet, but not so do-e as to prevent a 
 free circulation of air, and then place them 
 in (he open air for four or five months, ac- 
 cording as the weatlieris warmorotlierwise; 
 during the whole of this period, the fermenta- 
 tion proceeds, and at tlie end, the vinegar is 
 nearlv done. The next operation is this: the 
 vinegar is poured into large vessels, called 
 rapetuns, to which tliere are false bottoms cov- 
 ered with rape, that is, the refuse of raisins, 
 or oilier fruit, from which wine has been 
 made; fill one of these tuns entirely with
 
 VIN 
 
 240 
 
 VIN 
 
 the vinegar, and another about tliree-fourtlis 
 full, and every day take a portion of the 
 liquor out of the fullest barrel, and put it into 
 the other, until the vineg:ir is in a lit stale to 
 be drawn off; when it must be closely bar- 
 relled. 
 
 Vinegar may also he made in much smaller 
 quantities for domestic purposes; (lie mate- 
 rials of various kinds, with the addition of 
 sugar; raisins, currants, and ripe goose- 
 berries, however, are the principal ; some- 
 times it is made from brown sugar, and wa- 
 ter alone. The proportions are the same as 
 those necessary for strong wine; make the 
 barrel about three-fourths full, add a toast 
 covered with yeast, put in the bung very 
 loosely, and place the barrel where it will 
 be exposed to the sun, or, if it be winter, 
 near the fire. The fermentation should be 
 moderate and constant till the vinegar is 
 complete ; then draw it off clear, give it a 
 boil, and when quite cold, strain and bottle 
 it. 
 
 Vinegar is obtained from wine, by mixing 
 with the latter its own dowers, or ferment, 
 and its tartar reduced to powder, and put 
 into a vinegar or any other cask ; if the 
 latter, it must be placed in a warm situation, 
 full (if the steam from vinegar; in either case 
 the liquor should lie stirred frequently ; the 
 second fermentation will s|>eedily commence; 
 it will become heated, and turn acid by de- 
 grees, and in a short time the vinegar will 
 be produced. 
 
 It is commonly supposed that wine which 
 has become acid, will produce excellent vin- 
 egar ; this, however, is a mistaken idea, for 
 die stronger and better the quality of the 
 wine, the stronger and better will be the 
 vinegar. 
 
 The French have several methods of mak- 
 ing vinegar, which are subjoined. 
 
 Tlie vinegar makers of Orleans pour the 
 wine, of which they intend to make their 
 vinegar, into casks, at the bottoms of which 
 are close gratings of lime twigs; these serve 
 to clarify the wine, as the lees adhering to 
 the twigs, leave the liquor perfectly clear. 
 They then procure a number of casks, each 
 containing a hundred gallons, either new or 
 which have previously contained vinegar; 
 these are set upright, and in the top of every 
 one is bored a hole, two inches in diameter, 
 these are kept constantly open : tlie last men- 
 tioned casks are called Mothers; pour into 
 all of them twenty-live gallons of boiling 
 vinegar; to this, in a week's time, add 
 three gallons of wine, drawn from tlte first 
 mentioned casks; continue to add tlsc -.vine, 
 at intervals of a week, until the Mothers 
 are quite full ; then leave them for a fortnight, 
 and at the end of which period they generally 
 draw off the vinegar, taking care always to 
 leave the Mothers half full, at least, and 
 
 then to fill them with wine as before. The 
 method of proving when the vinegar is fit for 
 use, is, by plunging a stave into it; if on 
 taking it out, a white line is (XTceptible on 
 the end of it, the vinegar is quite ready. 
 The place where the casks are kept should 
 be very airy, and in the winter lime, by 
 means of stoves tlie temperature should be 
 raised to eighteen degrees of Reaumur. 
 
 Paris vinegar varies from the above, and 
 the process is veiy simple. A large quantity 
 of wine lees is put into coarse sacks, and 
 laid in tubs, which are placed one upon an- 
 other to form a kind of press; by means of 
 a screw, every drop of wine is gradually 
 squeezed from the lees ; thisoperat ion cannot 
 U- |XTlormc<l in less time than a \\cck. The 
 wine thus extracted is put into casks; in 
 the headings a hole is made, as above, which 
 holes are left constantly open; in summer 
 time the casks so filled are placed in the sun, 
 and, generally speaking, the vinegar is fit 
 for use in a fortniglrt. In the winter, tlie 
 fermentation will last double the time, and 
 must be assisted by artificial warmth. It 
 sometimes happens that the liquor heats to 
 so great a degree that tlie hand cannot be 
 borne in it ; in this case, the progress of 
 the fermentation must be checked by adding 
 more wine, until it proceeds more regularly. 
 When the vinegar is made, put it into casks, 
 which have the beech twigs at the bottom, 
 as above mentioned; let it remain a fort- 
 night, by which time it will lie sufficiently 
 fermented to draw off into the casks for 
 keeping it. 
 
 Another very simple method is also prac- 
 tLed in France; a few quarts are drawn 
 from a barrel of excellent vinegar, and an 
 equal quantity of very clear white wine is 
 put into the barrel, close the bung lightly, 
 and keep it in a place where the heat is 
 moderate and regular. In a month's time 
 draw off the same quantity as alxjve, and 
 pour in an equal portion of white wine. A 
 barrel of good vinegar will thus afford a 
 constant supply for a length of time without 
 leaving the slightest deposit. 
 
 A cask which has not contained vinegar 
 before, should have a quart of boiling hot 
 vinegar poured into it, shaken till cold, and 
 allowed to stand for some hours. 
 
 VINEGAR, BASIL. Sweet basil is in 
 full perfection about the middle of August. 
 Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh 
 green leaves of basil (these give much finer 
 and more flavor than tlie dried,) and cover 
 :!i. .M with vinegar, or wine, and let them 
 steep for ten days: if yon wish a very strong 
 essence, strain the liquor, put it on some 
 fresh leaves, and let them steep fourteen days 
 more. 
 
 Obs. This U a very agreeable addition
 
 VIN 
 
 241 
 
 VIN 
 
 to sauces, soups, and to die mixture usually 
 made fur salads. 
 
 It is a secret the makers of inock turtle 
 
 may tliank us for telling; a table-spoonful 
 put" in when the soup is finished will impreg- 
 nate a tureen of soup with the basil aod acid 
 flavors, at very -mall cost, when fresh basil 
 and lemons art: extravagantly dear. 
 
 The flavor of the other sweet and savory 
 herbs, celery, &<:. uiay be procured, and pre- 
 served in the -a.ne. manner by infusing them 
 in wine or \ ine^ar. 
 
 VINEGAR, AMERICAN. Boil six 
 gallons of water, and add, while it is hot, 
 four quarts of molasses ; put it into a tub to 
 cool; when milk warm, stir in a pint of 
 i-t ; put it into the cask, and set it 
 by the lire lor twenty-fair hours; then put 
 it in ilx' sun, uiih a bottle in the bong-hole. 
 Botlle it three months afterwards. 
 
 VINEGAR, m'RNET OR CUCUM- 
 BER. This is made in precisely lli .-ame 
 manner as dint-ted alxive. The flavor of 
 buriK-l resembles cucumber so exactly, that 
 when infused in vinegar, the nicest palate 
 
 would prom << it to Ix- cucimiljcr. This 
 
 is a \eiy favorite relish with cold meat, sal- 
 ads, &c, 
 
 VINE:;\i;. C\MP. Cayenne pepper, 
 
 one (irachin, avohdnjxiis weight. Soy, two 
 tahle-^ponnfuls. Walnut krti-hnp, four ditto. 
 Six anchovies ehop|x-d. A small <-|o\c of 
 garlic, minrrd line. Steep all for a month 
 in a pint of lln- IK-SI vinegar, frequently shak- 
 ing tin- linllli-: strain through it tamis, and 
 keep ii in small bottles, corked as tightly as 
 ptMBibie. 
 
 \ [NEC \i:. CHILI. This 'a commonly 
 
 made uiih tlii- foreign bird pepper; but you 
 will obtain ,i mrirh liner flavor from inlhsing 
 n-d English Chilies (cut in half, or 
 pounded) in a pint of the Ix-sl vin. 
 
 . or ;i (jiiai tel of an ounce of avenue 
 |H-ppcr. Many people caniiot eat (i>ll with- 
 out the addition of an acid unit cayenne 
 pep|x-r: to -:i.-li palates this will be an 
 agreeable' relish 
 
 . \II, CRESS. Dry and pound 
 hall an ounce of cress-M-cd (such as is sown 
 
 VM with mn-lard,) |XMir ii|> .a il a 
 )ii:ut of i IK- I . 
 
 tiavs. >li.<Uin;r it up evei y il.iy. 'I'. 
 strongly ll.ivon.tl with cn-.-s; and I 
 
 meals, &c. it is u great favorite 
 v\ith many . 
 
 Celery vinegar is made in the same 
 
 Vl\Ei;\|{, ELDER FLOWER AND 
 21 
 
 TARRAGON. Fill a quart bottle with 
 llie flowers of elder, or the leaves of tarragon, 
 when it is in flower; pour vinegar upon 
 t'eni, and let them infuse for a fortnight; 
 then strain it through a flannel bag, and put 
 it into small bottles. By the same meaiiv, 
 vinegar may be flavored with the fresh gath- 
 ered leaves of any sweet herb. 
 
 VINEGAR, GARLIC. Cut small one 
 
 ounce and a half of garlic, bruise one nutmeg 
 and diree cloves, steep them in a quart of 
 vinegar for a week, shaking it daily ; then 
 strain and bottle it. Shallot vinegar is made 
 in the same manner. 
 
 VINEGAR, GOOSEBERRY. Gather 
 yellow gooseberries when quite ripe, crush 
 and mash them well in a tub with a large 
 wooden pestle; to every two gallons of 
 gooseberries, after being mashed, put two of 
 water; mix them well together; let it work 
 for three weeks, stirring the ma.-s two or 
 three times each day; then strain the liquor 
 through a hair sieve, and put to every gallon 
 one pound of brown sugar, one pound of 
 treacle, and a table-spoonful of fresh yeast; 
 let it work lor three or four days in the same 
 tub, which has l>een well wasln*! ; then run 
 it into iron-hooped casks. Let it stand 
 twelve months, and bottle it for use. This 
 is a very strong vinegar. 
 
 VINEGAR, HONEY. Half a pound 
 of honey must be put to a pint of wa- 
 ter, and the honey well dissolved. This 
 mixture is then exposed to tlie greatest heat 
 of (he Min, without closing wholly tlie bung- 
 hole of the c;isk, which must be merely cover- 
 ed with coarse linen, to prevent the admission 
 of insects. In alxmt six weeks, the liquor 
 becomes acid, and changes to a very strong 
 vinegar, and of excellent quality. 
 
 VINEGAR, HORSERADISH. Horw- 
 
 radish is in highest perfection about Novem- 
 ber. Four a quart of best vinegar on threw 
 ounces of sciajx-d horseradish, an ounce of 
 rninced eschalot, and one drachm of cay- 
 enne; let il stand a week, and vou ill have 
 an excellent relish fur cold beef, salads, &c. 
 costing scarcely any thing. A portion of 
 black pepper and miistaid. celery or crett- 
 seed, may be added to the above. 
 
 VINEGAR, RASPBERRY. The best 
 way to make this, is to pour three pints of 
 the best white wine vinegar on a pint and a 
 half uf fresh-gatliered ted rasplierries in a 
 stone jar, or china bowl (neither glazed 
 earthfimat'e, nor any metallic vessel, must 
 lie used ; ) the next day strain the liquor over 
 a like q-iantity of fresh raspberries ; and the 
 day following do the same. Then drain off
 
 VOL 
 
 242 
 
 WAF 
 
 the liquor without pressing, and pass it 
 through a jelly-bag (previously wetted with 
 plain vinegar) into a stone jar, with a pound 
 of pounded lump sugar to e.ieh pint. When 
 the sugar is dissolved, stir il up, cover down 
 the jar, and set it in a saucepan 1 of water, 
 and keep boiling for an hour, taking off the 
 scum; add to each pint a glass of brandy, 
 and IxUlle it: mixed in about eight parts of 
 water, it is a very refreshing and delightful 
 summer drink. An excellent cooling bever- 
 age to assuage thirst in ardent fevers, colds, 
 and inflammatory complaints, &c. and is 
 agreeable to most palates. 
 
 VINEGAR FOR SALADS. Take of 
 
 tarragon, savory, chives, eschalots, three 
 ounces each; a handt'il of the tops of mint 
 and balm, all dry and pounded; put into a 
 wide-mouthed liottle, widi a gallon of best 
 vinegar; cork it close, set it in the sun, and 
 in a fortnight strain off, and squeeze the 
 herbs ; let it stand a day to settle, and then 
 strain it through a filtering bag. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT. (1) Cut some cold 
 tin-key or veal into small thin slices, season 
 it with dried lemon-peel grated, pepper, 
 pounded mace, and salt ; add one anchovy, 
 some garlic and onion pounded, also a little 
 good gravy, a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, 
 one of white wine, and an ounce of butter 
 rolled in flour; then make it <)uite hot, but 
 do not allow it to boil, and serve it in the 
 prepared vol-au-vent. The gravy may l>e 
 made with the bones, or a little cream, and 
 the beaten yolk of an egg may be substituted 
 for the cream. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT. (2) In opening the 
 oysters, separate them from the liquor, which 
 must be strained ; take off the beards, and 
 add to them the liquor, together with some 
 white stock, a bit of butter rolled in flour, 
 two or three blades of mace, a bit of lemon- 
 peel, pepper, and salt ; simmer them for fifteen 
 or twenty minutes, and a little before putting 
 them into tlie vol-au-vent, pick out the lemon- 
 |>eel, add a table-spoonful of white wine, and 
 three of good cream, and make it quite hot. 
 To make oyster patties, when they are to be 
 bearded, cut them into three or four bits, 
 and prepare them in the same manner. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT. (3) Roll off tart paste, 
 till about the eighth of an inch thick: then, 
 with a tin cutler made for that purpose 
 (about the size of the bottom of the did) you 
 intend sending to table,) cut out the shape, 
 and lay it on a baking-plate with paper; 
 rub it over with yolk of egg ; roll out good 
 puff paste an inch thick, stamp it with the 
 same cutter, and lay il on the tart paste; 
 then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and 
 
 press it in the centre nearly through the puff" 
 paste; rub the top with yolk ot egg, and 
 bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, 
 of a light brown color: when done, take out 
 the paste inside the centre mark, preserving 
 the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, 
 and when wanted, fill it with a white frica- 
 see of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread, 
 or any other entree you wish. 
 
 VOLDRON . Melt eleven ounces of fresh 
 butter in a brass pan, and when quite hot, 
 add tlie same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, 
 and eight well-beaten eggs; stir constantly 
 for six or eight minutes, and [Hit it into a 
 dish; the following day, mix with it a nine 
 glass of orange- flower water; of citron, 
 orange, and lemon-peel, cut fine, half a 
 pound; butter a pudding dish, and lay into 
 the bottom a sheet of white pa|>er buttered, 
 then put in the voldron, and bake it for 
 twenty minutes; turn it out, ornament it 
 with cut citron and orange-peel, and serve 
 it in a silver or glass dish. 
 
 W. 
 
 WAFERS. Take a pint of good cream, 
 half a pound of sifted flour, half a pound of 
 powder sugar, and two drachms of orange- 
 flower water. Beat the cream with the 
 flour, a little at a time, until both are mixed 
 perfectly smooth and free from lumps, tlien 
 add the other articles; and as much more 
 creain as will make the paste nearly us thin 
 as milk ; make the iron hot, dip a leather in 
 si line melted butter, and rub the iron over 
 with it; put on die iron about a spoonful 
 and a half of the paste, press them a little 
 gently, and place the iron on a stove; open 
 the iron a little frequently, to see if it be 
 done; when one side is baked, turn the iron, 
 and do the other. The wafers should only 
 be lightly colored. Take them from the 
 mould carefully with a knife. 
 
 * 
 
 WAFERS, GERMAN. Take seven- 
 teen ounces of sifted flour, and half a pint of 
 good yeast, which make into a paste, with 
 as much warm milk as will malic it run from 
 the spoon freely, without being too clear; 
 then put it into a warm place. When it has 
 risen well, add to it the yolks of fourteen 
 eggs well beaten, the whites whipped to a 
 snow, and the grated rind of two lemons. 
 The whole being well mixed, pour over it 
 seventeen ounces of fresh butter melted, but 
 not too hot; stir it gently with a wooden 
 spoon, and put tlie preparation again into a 
 warm place to rise a second time; when it 
 lias risen sufficiently, and your pan quite hot, 
 rub tlie latter with butter, fill it with the
 
 WAL 
 
 243 
 
 WAL 
 
 paste, set it over a brisk fire, and fry your 
 wafers; make Ixnh sides equally brown; 
 when dune, sprinkle them with powder >HL; u 
 (and cinnamon, if you like), and serve them 
 hot. Be c.irefnl in tuking out the paste to 
 fill the |wn, not to disturb, nor to plunge the 
 spoon into tlie preparation, when not nsiii^ 
 it; the upper jiart nf the pasie should be 
 taken off very gently, and the spoon laiil 
 across the top of the vessel ; if these precau- 
 tions be not attended to, the good appear- 
 ance of the wafers will be destroyed. 
 
 \\-\\ T.KS, ITALIAN. Take eight 
 eggs, toiirteen ounces of powder sugar, a 
 pound of Hour, six ounces of cream, th<- 
 of milk, an ounce of oramj- (lowers, and the 
 rind of a lemon Dialed. Heat tlie eggs with 
 the sugar and (lour first ; then add the cream, 
 milk, and oilier materials, by degrees; mix 
 them well, and take eare there are not the 
 slightest liiui|)s. Make the wafers ;ui di- 
 rected. 
 
 WAI.MTS. Make a brine of salt and 
 . in ilie |)ro|N)rii,in of a quarter of a 
 pound of salt to a quart of waler; put tlie 
 walmits into this to soak for a week; or if 
 you wish to soften them so that they may 
 be soon ready for rating, run a larding 
 pin through tiiem in half a il.ixen [/laces 
 this will allow the pickle to [jcnetnile, and 
 they will be mn:-h softer, and of better (la 
 vor, and ready much sooner than if not per- 
 !: |)iit them iu|.> a stewpan with such 
 brine, and '.'hi- r -imrncr ; put 
 
 them 0:1 i -'n.\e to drain; then lav them <"i 
 a !i-li plate. and lei them stand ill the ail till 
 they turn Mack this nriy take a couple of 
 days; put them into sjla.-s, or nn^la/.' 
 jais; (ill tlicse alxnit three |>arts with die 
 walnuts, and (ill them up with the following 
 pickle. 
 
 a quart of tlie strongest vinegnr put 
 two ounces of black (wpper, one of ginger, 
 Kime of eschalots, same of salt, half a i 
 of allspice, and half a draehm of c a 
 J'ut these into a stone jar; cover it with a 
 bladder, welted with iiickle, tie o\cr that 
 some Icatlter, and set (lie jar on a trivet I A 
 the sirle of | he fire lor three days, shaking it 
 up three limes a day, and then pour it while 
 hot to tlie walnuts, and co\er them down with 
 bladder welted with the pickle, leather, &c. 
 
 \V\I.\UTS A\I) BUTTERMTS. 
 Gather them fcr pickling when tlie head of 
 a pin will pierce them easily; run a lat ,.- 
 needle through them here and there, or score 
 
 tin-in on one side with a knife; lay them 
 into a brine of salt-and-water lor " i 
 days, changing the brine twice in that time; 
 strain, and put lliem into a jar, and sprinkle 
 a little silt over them. Boil four qua 
 
 vinegar for a hundred walnuts, allowing to 
 each quart one ounce of whole pepper, and 
 one of ginger, half an ounce each of sliced 
 nutmeg and whole allspice, a table-spoonful 
 of mustard seed, and one of scraped horse- 
 radish, one head of garlic, or a small onion; 
 |ur it boiling hot over the nuts, and put a 
 plate on die jar; when cold, tie it closely 
 down. After the nuts are used, the liquor 
 may be boiled, strained, and bottled, to use 
 as a pickle. 
 
 WALNUT KETCHUP. (1) Thorough- 
 ly well bruise one hundred and twenty young 
 walnuts; put to them three quarters of a 
 pound of salt, and a quart of good wine vin- 
 egar; stir them every day for a fortnight; 
 then strain and squeeze the liquor from them 
 throtiji a cloth, and set it aside; put to the 
 husks half a pint of vinegar, and let it stand 
 : then strain and squeeze them as 
 .din;,' the liq.ior which is obtained 
 from them to what was put aside the preced- 
 ing day, and add lo it one ounce and a 
 I" whole black pepper, forty cloves, 
 half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, or sliced, 
 hail" an ounce of ginger, and five di -acinus of 
 mace, and Ixiil it tor half an hour; tlien 
 slrain it off from the spices, and boltle it for 
 use. 
 
 W \LNUT KETCHUP. (2) Take six 
 
 - of green walnut-shells, put them 
 into a tub, mix them up well with common 
 salt, (from two to three pounds.) let them 
 stand lor six day-. fie|iiently biding and 
 mashing them; by this time the shells be- 
 1 pulpy; then by banking it up 
 on laie side of the tub, anil at the same liiiiv 
 by raising the tub on that side, the liquor 
 
 ] will drain clear off to tin- other; then take 
 that liquor out: the 'mashing and bunking- 
 up may be repeated as often as liquor is 
 found. The quantity will be about six 
 quarts. When done, let it be simmered in 
 an iron boiler as long as any scum arises; 
 then Imiise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a 
 quarter of a [xnmd of allspice, two ounces of 
 long [Helper, two ounces of cloves, with ihe 
 
 ; above ingredients; let ii si .wlv boil lor half 
 an hour; when bottled, let an equal quantity 
 
 ' of tlie spice go into each boltle ; when cork- 
 ed, let the bottles I* filk.il quite up: cork 
 [ii'-iii tight, seal them over, and put tliem 
 into a cool and dry place for one year before 
 
 | they are used. 
 
 WALNUT KETCHUP, FOR FISH 
 
 SAUCE. Take a quart of walnut pickle, 
 add to it a quarter of a pound of anchovies 
 and ihree-qnaiters of a pint of red Port, and 
 let it boil till reduced to one-third; then 
 strain it, and when cold, put it into small 
 Untie.-, and keep them closely corked.
 
 WEL 
 
 244 
 
 WHI 
 
 WALN UT PICKLE. Put any quanti- 
 ty of the outside shells or green rinds of 
 ripe walnuts into a tub in which there is a 
 tap-hole; sprinkle them with water, raise 
 the tub on one side, that it may stand in a 
 sloping direction, place another vessel under 
 it to receive the juice as it drops from the 
 tap-hole; this it will soon begin to do; and, 
 when a sufficient quantity has been obtained, 
 to one gallon of this black liquor add two 
 large table-spoonfuls of salt, one large onion, 
 a stick of horseradish, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, two bay leaves, a quarter of an ounce 
 of black pepper, the same of allspice and of 
 bruised ginger. Boil it slowly for twenty 
 minutes; strain it, and, when cold, slir it 
 and bottle it for use, putting the spice into 
 the bottles. 
 
 WALNUTS, TO PICKLE. Gather 
 the nuts before the inside shell is hard, which 
 may be known by trying them with a pin; 
 Jay them into salt and water nine days, 
 changing the liquor every three days; then 
 take them out, and dry them in the air on a 
 sieve or mat; they should not touch each 
 other, and they should be turned, that every 
 side may become black alike; then put 
 (hem into a jar. When half the nuts are 
 in, put in an onion, with about thirty cloves 
 stuck into it. and add the rest of the nuts. 
 To one hundred walnuts allow half a pint 
 of mustard seed, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mace, half an ounce of peppercorns, and 
 sixty bay leaves; boil all the spice in some 
 good common vinegar, and pour it boiling 
 upon the nuts, observing that they are en- 
 tirely covered ; stop the mouth of the jar 
 with a cloth, and when cold, cover it with 
 bladder or leather. In about six weeks 
 they will be fit for use, when they should lie 
 examined, and if they have absorbed the 
 vinegar so much as to leave any of the nuts 
 dry, more should be added, but it need not 
 be boiled. 
 
 WATER SOUCHY. Make a stock 
 with three or four flounders, boiled in three 
 quarts of water, two onions, and a bunch of 
 parsley, till they are soft enough to pulp 
 through a sieve with tlie liquor they were 
 boiled in; then season it with pepper, salt, 
 and some parsley chopped, and boil in it a 
 few flounders, with the brown skin taken 
 off, some nicely cleaned perch or tench. 
 Serve in a tureen, and with slices of bread 
 and butter to eat with it. 
 
 \VELSH RABBIT. Pare the crust off 
 a slice of bread, toast it nicely, divide it in 
 two, butter it, and lay upon each half a thin 
 slice of cheese which has been toasted in a 
 Dutch oven ; if, when put upon the toast, it 
 is not sufficiently browned, hold a salaman- 
 
 der, or hot shovel, over the top. Serve it 
 very hot. 
 
 WHEY. (1) Make a pint of milk boil; 
 put to it a glass or two of white wine ; put it 
 on the fire till it just boils again ; then set it on 
 one side till the curd has settled ; pour off 
 the clear whey, and sweeten it as you like. 
 
 Cider is often substituted for wine, or 
 half the quantity of vinegar that we have 
 ordered wine. When there is no fire in 
 the sick room, this may be put hot into a 
 bottle, and laid between the bed and mat- 
 tress; it will keep \varm several hours. 
 
 WHEY. (2) Put a very small portion 
 of rennet into a quart of milk, and let it 
 stand by the side of the fire until turned; 
 then serve it in a dish, with sugar and a 
 little nutmeg, grated, and strewed over, or 
 strain the liquor carefully from the curd, 
 and serve quite clear. 
 
 WHEY, WHITE WINE. Boil a 
 pint of milk, and when it rises in the pan, 
 pour in one glass of sherry and one of cur- 
 rant wine; let it again boil up, take it off 
 the fire, and, when it has stood a few min- 
 utes, remove the curd, pour off the clear 
 whey, and sweeten it. 
 
 WHIM WHAM. Sweeten a quart of 
 cream, and mix with it a tea-cujjful of white 
 wine, and the grated peel of a lemon ; whisk 
 it to a froth, which drain upon the back of a 
 sieve, and put part into a deep glass dish; 
 cut some Naples biscuit as thin as |x>?sible, 
 and put a layer lightly over the froth, and 
 one of red currant jelly, then a layer of the 
 froth, and one of the biscuit and jelly; finish 
 with the froth, and pour the remainder of the 
 cream into the dish, and garnish with citron 
 and candied orange-peel cut into straws. 
 
 WHITE BEET, LEAVES. Pick and 
 wash ilii'rn clean, put them on in lx>iling 
 water with a little salt, cover the saucepan, 
 and boil them longer than spinach; drain off 
 the water, and beat them as spinach, with a 
 bit of butter and a little salt. 
 
 WHITINGS. In choosing whitings, be 
 careful that the skin has a silvery appear- 
 ance, that tlie body is firm, and the fins 
 stiff; these are sure proofs of its fresh- 
 
 WHITINGS, ENGLISH WAY. Put 
 into a saucepan two spoonfuls of oil, half a 
 lemon sliced (tlie pips and rind taken off), 
 salt, and pepper, two glasses of white wine, 
 the same of water, and let them boil nearly 
 a quarter of an hour; then put the whitings, 
 properly cleaned, cook them in the above,
 
 WH I 
 
 245 
 
 WOO 
 
 blanch a clove of garlic, and lx>nt it with 
 the back of a knife, put it with parsley, 
 shallots, and two glatvnof cbampagsjB, into 
 avtrvqian ; let it Iwiil live mi'r.ites, tlii'ii add 
 some butter, rolled i'l flour, salt, and |>e|i|>er; 
 stir it over tin- fire till smo.-ili, then serve. 
 
 WIMTI\(;S, FRIED. (1) Take a? many 
 
 whitings as vim may require; clea 
 and wipe i hem dry; then run them through 
 u itli a .-kewer, soak them well in 
 milk; flour, and fry them of a nice color. 
 .(MI on a napkin. 
 
 \VHITI\CS, FRIED. (2) Skin them, 
 the liver, and fasten their tail* to 
 their months; dip lliem in t-S'4, then in 
 bread-cnmibs, and fry them in hot lard, or 
 split them, anil fry them like lilL-ts of soles. 
 A three-quart .-Tevvpan, half full offal, is t lie 
 best utensil to fry whitings. They will lie 
 done eii-iugh in alxmt five minutes; but it 
 will sometime-- ret|iiire a quarter of an hour, 
 to drain the fit from them and dry them (if 
 the Lit yon put (hem into was not Ikd enough), 
 turning them now and then with a tish- 
 
 WIIITE FISH AND SAUCE. Make 
 
 a rich gravy wi'h a bit ..(' veal, the heads and 
 fins of four or five haddocks, three or four 
 unions, -oiii-- pai-K, a little c.iyiine, black 
 |>ep|>er,ai)d salt, the juice of a lemon, half 
 . a tal)le-s|XH)iilnl of ketchup, half a 
 pint of white wine, and two quarts of water; 
 nimmer them for an lumr, strain, and put to 
 it the meat of a lolister or crab minced, and 
 forcemeat balls; thicken it with half a pint 
 of cream, llie yolks of three egg* beaten, and 
 a pint of butter kneaded in flour. Have 
 ready Uided three haddocks skinned and 
 without their heads, pour the sauce over 
 them in a deep dish. Make tile forcemeat 
 balls of a small boiled haddock finely minc- 
 ed, grated bread crumbs, butter, pepper, 
 alt, grated nutmeg, and parsley ; bind (hem 
 with the whites of two e^s beaten, and fry 
 them in fresh lard of a light brown. 
 
 _ WHITE POT. Beat up the yolks of 
 eight, and the whites of four eggx, with two 
 quarts uf new milk, a little rose water, a 
 nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar; cut a small roll into veiy tlim 
 . them in a di.-h, anil pour the 
 milk, &c. uver them; put : bit of butter on 
 the top, ami set it in tin: oven; it will take 
 half an hour baking. 
 
 W I IITE ROUX, or W kite Thickening 
 for Sauces and Made Dishes. Melt 
 Mutually, ovef a slow tin-, a <joo.i piere of 
 butter, and diedje in , ,.(' Hour to 
 
 make it like- a thin pa>ie ; k-*,-|i stirring it 
 21* 
 
 for a quarter of an hour, and tlien put k into 
 a small jar to be kept for use. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE. See Bechamel. 
 
 WIDGEONS AND TEAL, Addressed 
 
 exactlx as llie wild duck ; only that less time 
 is requisite for a widgeon, and still less for 
 a teal. 
 
 WILD DUCKS. For roasting a wild 
 duck, yon must have a clear, l>ri.-k fire, and 
 a hot spit ; it must !* browned upon the out- 
 side, without being sodden within. To have 
 it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety. 
 Prepare the fire by stirring and raking it 
 just U'lore the bird is laid down, and fifteen 
 or twenty minutes will do it in the fashion- 
 able wi\ ; Uit if you like it a little more 
 done, allow it a few minutes longer; if it is 
 too much, it will lose its, flavor. t 
 
 WINE (MADEIRA)SAUCE. Take a 
 
 tea-spoonful of flour, and a |>reserved green 
 lemon, cut into (lice, mix them will) a glass 
 of Madeira wine, and a little connomme, 
 add an ounce of butter, some sail and nut- 
 meg; set these on a very hot stove to boil 
 for a quarter of an hour ; then take it off, 
 put in a quarter of a (xnmd of butter, set it 
 again on the lire, stirring constantly till the 
 butter is melted. 
 
 WINTER HOTCH-POTCH. Take 
 the best end of a neck or loin of mutton; 
 cut it into neat chops; cut four carrots, and 
 as many turnips into slices; put on four 
 quarts of water, with half the carrots and 
 luriii|>s, and a whole one of each, with a 
 [MMiml of' di ted green peas, which must be 
 put to soak the night before; let it boil two 
 hours, then take out the whole carrot and 
 turnip; bruise and return them; put in the 
 meat, and the rest of the carrot and turnip, 
 some pep|>er and salt, and boil slowly three- 
 i|ii.u t(i.-. of HII hour; a short time before 
 serving, add an onion cut small and a bead 
 of celery. 
 
 WOODCOCKS. (1) The greeted 
 possible care .-ln.uM be taken, in picking of 
 these birds, to handle them as little an pos- 
 sible, on account of the skin being so par- 
 ticularly tender, that wlien broken it spoilt* 
 tin- beauty of the bird. When picked, cut 
 off the pinions tit the first joint, prrat the 
 legs clo.-e to llie side, through whic.h, aad 
 tlie body, pierce (he beak of the bird ; then 
 cross die. It-el, and lay a flice of bacon over 
 the bre:ist. Woodcocks and snipes tnajr be 
 die**.) according to the same rule*. 
 
 WOODCOCKS. (2) Take a pound 
 of lean beef, cut it into piece*, and put it
 
 woo 
 
 246 
 
 VEA 
 
 into a saucepan, with two quarts of water, 
 an onion stuck with clove.*, two blades of 
 mace, and some whole pepper, boil all these 
 together till reduced to half ; then strain it 
 off into another saucepan: draw the wood- 
 cocks, and lay the trail in a plate; put tlie 
 woodcocks into the gravy, and let them boil 
 in it for twelve minutes; while they are 
 boiling, mince the trail and liver very small ; 
 put them into a small saucepan, with a lit- 
 tle mace; add four or five spoonfuls of the 
 gravy tlie woodcocks are boiled in ; then 
 take the crumb of a stale roll, rub it fine 
 into a dish placed before the fire, and put to 
 tlie trail, in the small saucepan, half a pint 
 of red port, a bit of butter, rolled in finur, 
 set it on the fire, and shake it round till the 
 butler is melted ; tlien put in the bread- 
 crumbs, and shake the saucepan round; lay 
 the woodcocks in the dish, pour the sauce 
 over them, and serve. 
 
 WOODCOCKS. (3) Woodcocks should 
 not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers 
 of " haul gout" considered a " bonne 
 bouche;" truss their legs close to the body, 
 and run an iron skewer through each thigh, 
 close to the body, and tie them on a small 
 bird spit; put them to roast at a clear fire; 
 cut as many slices of bread as you have 
 birds, toast or fry them a delicate brown, 
 and lay them in the dripping-pan under the 
 birds to catch the trail ; baste them with 
 butter, and froth them with flour ; lay the 
 toast on a hot dish, and the birds on the 
 toa.st ; pour some good beef gravy into tlie 
 dish, and send some up in a boat, twenty or 
 thirty minutes will roast them. Garnish 
 with slices of lemon. Some epicures like 
 this bird very much under-done, and direct 
 that a woodcock should be just introduced 
 to the cook, for her to show it the fire, and 
 then send it up to table. 
 
 WOODCOCKS IN A MINUTE. Put 
 
 a brace of woodcocks into a fryingpan, 
 with some butler, shred shallots, grated 
 nutmeg, salt, and pepper; set the pan on a 
 fierce fire, and fry I he woodcocks lightly for 
 seven or eight minutes; then add the juice 
 of two lemons, half a glass of white wine, 
 and some raspings ; and leave them on the 
 fire till the sauce has boiled up once; then 
 serve altogether. 
 
 WOODCOCK SALMIS. Cut up the 
 woodcock on the table, and put tlie pieces 
 on a dish, which place on a stand, with a 
 lamp under it; add pepper, salt, shred shal- 
 lots, nearly a glass of white wine, the juice 
 t of three lemons, and a bit of butter; strew 
 Taspings over, and boil slowly for ten min- 
 frtes, stirring occasionally. Use spirits of 
 wine, for your lamp- 
 
 WOODCOCK SAUCE. Pound the 
 bones and livers of roasted woodcocks, and 
 put them into a stewpan, with two spoon- 
 fuls of cullis, and two spoonfuls of red port ; 
 reduce it to the consistence of a sauce, and 
 then strain it; when strained, add pepper, 
 salt, and tlie juice of two oranges. 
 
 Y. 
 
 YEAST. Beer yeast, which is the best 
 for bread, should be strained through a hair 
 sieve, and two or three quarts of cold spring 
 water poured over it; when it has stood for 
 twenty-four hours the water should lie poured 
 off, the yeast will then be found at the bottom 
 of the vessel, quite thick. To preserve that 
 which may be left over the baking, it should 
 l>e put into a bottle, corked tightly, and kept 
 in a cool place. In cold weather it will 
 continue good for a fortnight, but fresh yeast 
 is always preferable. When it does not ap- 
 pear sufficiently strong, honey or brown sugar 
 may l>c mixed with it, in the proportion of a 
 tea-spoonful to half a pint. 
 
 YEAST, BAKER'S. Boil two ounces 
 of hops in four quarts of water one hour, 
 adding more water as it decreases, carefully 
 stirring it all the time, and taking care that 
 it do not boil over; strain the liquor, and 
 mix well with it two pounds of malt; cover 
 it, and let it stand for eight hours, or until it 
 be milk warm, then stir in half a pint of 
 good yeast; when mixed well together, let 
 it work for ten hours, and then strain it 
 through a hair sieve. 
 
 YEAST, BRAN. Boil for ten minutes, 
 in two quarts of water, one pint of bran, and 
 a small handful of good hops; strain it 
 through a sieve, and when milk warm, add 
 three or four table-spoonfuls of beer yeast, 
 and two of brown sugar or treacle: put it 
 into a wooden stoupor jug; cover it, and 
 place it before the fire to ferment. It may 
 be bottled, tightly corked, and kept in a cool 
 place. 
 
 YEAST DUMPLINGS. Make a very 
 light dough with yeast, the same as for bread, 
 but with milk instead of water, add salt; 
 set it by the fire, covered up in a pan, for 
 half an hour, or an hour, to rise ; in tlie mean 
 lin.e, set on the fire a large saucepan of hot 
 water, and as soon as it boils, roll up die 
 dough into small balls, and put them into the 
 boiling water; keep them continually boiling 
 for ten minutes, tlien take them out, and serve 
 them immediately, with wine sauce over 
 them. To ascertain whether they are suffi-
 
 YEA 
 
 247 
 
 ZES 
 
 ciently boiled, stick a fork into one, and if it 
 cornea out clean, it is done enough. Some 
 think the l<est manner of eating them is by 
 dividing them from the top by two forks, as 
 they become heavy by their own steam, and 
 eat them immediately with meat, or sugar 
 and butter, or salt. 
 
 YELLOW GLAZE. Make a glaze, 
 with a quarter of a pound of fine sugar in 
 
 Cowder, the white of an egg, to which add 
 y degrees as much lemon-juice as may be 
 necessary; when sufficiently beaten up, (and 
 the longer it is beaten the whiter it will be), 
 add to it a small quantity of infusion of saf- 
 fron, strained, and the yellow rind of one or 
 two lemons grated on a piece of sugar, scrap- 
 ed off and pounded; take care, however, 
 not to put too much of the latter, lest the 
 glaze should be hitter. 
 
 YEAST, TO MAKE. Boil for half an 
 hour two quarts of water, thickened with 
 about three spoonfuls of fine flour, and 
 sweetened with nearly half a pound of brown 
 sugar; when almost cold, put it into a jug, 
 adding' four spoonfuls of fresh yeas I ; shake 
 it well together, let it stand uncovered near 
 the fire for a day, to ferment. There will be 
 
 a thin liquor on the top, pour this off; shake 
 the remainder, and cork it up for use. To 
 make a half peck loaf you should use a quar- 
 ter of a pint of the above. 
 
 YEAST, POTATO. Boil some good 
 mealy potatoes ; peel and weigh them ; while 
 hot, bruise them finely, and mix them quickly 
 with boiling water, allowing one quart to 
 each pound ; rub it through a hair sieve, 
 then add honey or brown sugar in the pro- 
 portion of one ounce to each quart of water ; 
 boil it to the consistency of batter, and when 
 nearly cold, add a large table-spoonful of 
 good yeast to every quart of water ; cover it 
 with a cloth to rise, and the following day it 
 will be ready for use ; keep a bottle of it, 
 which may be used instead of beer yeast for 
 the next making, first pouring off the thin 
 liquid that is on the top. It must be made 
 with fresh beer yeast every two or three 
 months. Double the quantity of this, as of 
 beer yeast, is required to make bread 
 light. ' 
 
 ZESTS. Zest (a term of art, used by 
 confectioners) is the peel of oranges, lemons, 
 or citrons, cut from top to bottom, in small 
 slips or zests, as thin as possible.
 
 RECEIPTS 
 
 FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF 
 
 CONFECTIONERY.
 
 CONFECTIONERY 
 
 ALM 
 
 ALMONDS, BLOWN. Scald a few al- 
 monds, and pound them to a! unit half as fine 
 as for biscuits, beat them with lemon-juice, 
 whites of egjjs anil powder-sugar; drop 
 them on paper, about tin- size of almond*, 
 and dry them in a stove or gentle oven. 
 
 ALMONDS BLOWN ROYAL. 
 
 Choose four ounce.-, of small thick almonds, 
 and put them into an oven until they are 
 .-lightly colored. Whilst I hey are cooling, 
 mix four (Miners df sii^ar with an egg; 
 U'ut them up fir ten minutes; add a little 
 carmine to make it a fine rose color; dip i 
 the almondii into this: take them out; dis- 
 njjajM' (hem from the ?%%, so that tliey may 
 he only just covered with it; lay them two I 
 and two on a sheet of strong paper three- 
 quarters of an inch between each pair; 
 they may also lie placed in threes to form 
 tlu> tre-foil, on w hich may be added a fourth. ; 
 Bake Uiein in a cool oven. 
 
 ALMOND BUTTER. To a quarter j 
 
 of a |xiund of blanched almonds, well beat, '; 
 put some new milk and rose water; take 
 a quart of thick cream, and the yolks of 
 twelve eggs beat well with a little of the 
 cream ; ilien add the rest of the cream; put 
 a quarter of a pint of new milk to the al- 
 monds, and .-tiain them into the cream till , 
 there is no strength left ; strain all togeth- 
 er into a skillet, set it over a charcoal fire, 
 and stir it till it cornea to a tender curd; 
 put it into a strainer, and hang it up till the 
 whey is drained out; then take six ounces 
 of fine cificd sugar and a little rose water, 
 and beat it all into butter with a spoon. 
 
 ALMOND BITTER CAKE. Pound 
 three ounce* (half bitter and half sweet) of 
 almonds, put them into an earthen pan with 
 six ounces of powder sugar; the same of 
 sifted (lour, two whole eggs, and six yolks, 
 a spoonful of brandy and a grain or two of 
 pall ; work these up together for five min- 
 ute* and then add six ounces of fresh but- 
 ler which is .-lightly wanned, work that in 
 for four minutes longer. Then, having 
 whipped the whiles of two eggs, mix them 
 into the paste. Butter a well-tinned copper 
 
 ALM 
 
 mould or paper case, ten inches long, five 
 wide, and two high; pour in your prepara- 
 tion, and bake it in a cool oven. While bak- 
 ipg, whip the whites of two eggs, and mix 
 two ounces of powder sugar with them, and 
 cut four ounces of sweet almonds into slips 
 (short wise;) mix them also with two ounce* 
 of powder sugar and a spoonful of white of 
 PJJ? whipped. In three-quarters of an hour 
 take out the cake, and if it be firm and well 
 colored, cover it with the whipped egg and 
 sugar, and on that strew the almonds equal- 
 ly, press ing them in, that all may be colored 
 alike. This operation must be performed as 
 quick as possible, and when done, turn the 
 cake out and cut it in four slips (length- 
 wise,) and then divide each into six parts 
 lozenge-shaped ; this will give you twenty- 
 four cakes, which must be arranged in stars 
 on your dish, six to every star. They 
 may also be cut in two lengths instead of 
 four, and these divided into fifteen small 
 pieces, and then, with a paste-cutter, form- 
 ed into crescents. The ingredients, and the 
 proper quantities for this cake are as follows: 
 six ounces of flour, the same of powder 
 sugar, three ounces of sweet and bitter al- 
 monds, six yolks, and two whole eggs, six 
 ounces of butter, two of sugar mixed with 
 the w hites of two eggs whipped, four ounces 
 of cut almonds added to the sugar and eggs, 
 a spoonful of brandy and a grain of salt. 
 
 ALMOND CANDY. Blanch a pound 
 of the best almonds, and cut them very 
 thin, lengthways, put them into a pound of 
 clarified sugar to crisp them, stir them over 
 the fire till boiled to souffle; then take 
 them off and keep stirring till the sugar is 
 dry like sand: then silt it, so that the al- 
 monds may be left, divide them into four 
 parts to color them differently, one part 
 red, the second yellow, the third green, and 
 the fourth left white as they come from the 
 -u.-ar. To color the first, soak a small 
 quantity of carmine in clarified sugar, and 
 lay your almonds in it; do the same with a 
 little tincture of saffron for the yellow, and 
 spinach juice for the green. Place the col- 
 ored almonds on a neve in a stove; when 
 dry, mix all together, adding the white
 
 ALM 
 
 252 
 
 ALM 
 
 ones. Boil nearly as much sugar as your 
 mould will require to souffle, put it in, and 
 when the almonds are quite dry, garnish the 
 surface of the sugar with them; do not, 
 however, lay them too thick, and just pi-ess 
 them down with a fork; put the mould in- 
 to a moderate oven for five hours, then drain 
 it well, and in another two hours it may be 
 taken from the mould. 
 
 ALMONDS CINNAMON SPANISH. 
 
 Blanch your almonds, then with a bit of 
 butter tied in a piece of ctolli, rub the pan 
 and brown them. Have ready some clari- 
 fied sugar, with powdered cinnamon stirred 
 in it, put in the almonds, and when well cov- 
 ered with llie sugar and cinnamon, lay them 
 separately on tins, and dry in a slow oven. 
 
 ALMONDS TO COLOR. ALMONDS 
 ROSE COLORED. Blanch and cut sweet 
 almonds in small pieces, put them on a bak- 
 ing plate, and pour on them a link- of any 
 vegetable liquid, of an infusion of cochineal, 
 or carmine; then rub them in your hands, 
 to mix them well with the color; when all 
 are so done, dry them in a stove or in die 
 oven. 
 
 ALMONDS VIOLET. Are done in the 
 same way, the coloring ingredients are 
 cochineal, and a little indigo dissolved in 
 water, put but a small quantity of die latter 
 at a time as it is very powerful. 
 
 ALMONDS GREEN. The same pro- 
 ceeding: die color is made with two hand- 
 fills of fresh spinach, well washed, drained, 
 and then pounded; when very fine, press it 
 through a napkin ; let the juice drop on a 
 dish, which place on a hot stove; as soon as 
 it begins to boil, take it off, stirring it con- 
 stantly, till the green curdles, then pour it 
 through a horsehair sieve, and when well 
 drained strain it through a silk sieve or tam- 
 my; the juice thus obtained, will give the 
 almonds (which must be put in a lew at a 
 time) a clear and even green color. 
 
 ALMONDS BLUE. Dissolve a little in- 
 digo in water, strain it through a cloth and 
 use it as above mentioned. 
 
 ALMONDS ORANGE 
 
 Mix a little liquid red, and a little infusion 
 of saffron togedier, and proceed with die al- 
 monds as usual. 
 
 ALMONDS LEMON COLORED. 
 
 Infuse a small quantity of saffron in nearly 
 boiling water for a few minutes; strain and 
 follow the above direction. 
 
 ALMONDS CHOCOLATE COLOR- 
 
 ED. Are dyed with chocolate dissolved in 
 water and strained. 
 
 The almonds may be cut in slips, dice, 
 &c. according to fancy. Observe that die 
 color of your almond's should be light and 
 delicate; when done, place them, eidier 
 separately or mixed together, iu papei 
 cases. 
 
 ALMOND COUPEAUX. Blanch and 
 pound half a pound of sweet almonds with 
 die whites of three eggs into a very fine 
 paste, add to it six ounces of powdered su- 
 gar and the rind of a lemon grated ; when 
 thoroughly mixed togedier, pour over it 
 about four spoonfuls of orange-flower water: 
 stir up the paste (which ought to be rather 
 thin,) once more, and then lay it with a 
 spoon on a plate of bright copper, in an 
 oval form, about three or four inches in 
 length. The plate being quite full, take it 
 up by Iwth hands, and strike it steadily upon 
 a table, so that the paste may be extended, 
 but not much ; then bake them until diey be- 
 come of a deep yellow. Take them from 
 the copper with a knife, and whilst hot put 
 them on a wooden roller, about the diick- 
 ness of an arm, and press them widi your 
 hand, that they may acquire the form of die 
 wood, and when cool place in a box, and 
 keep them dry. These coupeaux are very 
 brittle. 
 
 ALMONDS CRISPED. Rub a pound 
 of the best sweet almonds in a cloth to take 
 off all the dust, and then put them, with 
 a pound of sugar, half a glass of water and 
 a little carmine, into a preserving pan; put 
 them on the fire, and let them remain; when 
 the almonds crackle lake them off and work 
 them about until the sugar is detached from 
 the almonds, then take away part of the su- 
 gar, put the almonds on the fire again, and 
 stir them lightly with a spatula, (be careful 
 that the fire be not too quick;) and when 
 diey have taken the sugar, add that which 
 had been removed, and continue to burn 
 them till they have unbilled that also. Place 
 a sheet of paper on a sieve, throw your al- 
 monds on it, separate those which adhere 
 together, and let them cool. 
 
 ALMOND DRAGEES. Take of the 
 best and largest almonds what quantity you 
 please, and having washed them in cold wa- 
 ter, let them drain and dry on a sieve for 
 twenty-four hours. Tin; next day weigh 
 them, and for each pound of almonds lake 
 diree pounds of sugar; clarifv the latter and 
 boil it to the degree petit lissc; then let it 
 cool a little. Hau; \onr tossing pan ready; 
 on your right hand, a dialing dish to keep 
 your pan containing the sirup constantly 
 warm; and on your left hand, a table widi
 
 ALM 
 
 253 
 
 ALM 
 
 a mixture of powder and flour (of each half 
 a |xmnd to a pound of almonds). All being 
 ready, ptit the almonds into the |m, ami 
 punr ou-r tin-in OIK- or two large ipOOflMl 
 of tlie pimp, and shake them so that all tlie 
 almonds may I* wetted with sirup; then 
 take a handful or two of the (lour and pow- 
 der, and strew it OUT tin- u-t almonds; 
 shake them again, that the Hour may adliere 
 all round the almond*. After this, swing 
 the pan backwards and forwards, liy which 
 means the almonds roll aUmt in e\i-iy direc- 
 tion; continue tlii.s motion until they In-come 
 dry; then m<>i.-teii and powder them as Ix- 
 liuc; swing the pan a^.iin. and when dry, 
 rejK-at tlie proce a third, fourth, anil fifth 
 time, or more, until they are of a proper 
 si/.i-; then pour over them the sirup li*r the 
 last time, without tin.- powder, and, having 
 MV IMI,' and dried them, take them out and 
 place them on sieM-s in a warm place, tliat 
 they may dry perfectly before you put them 
 l>v f'.r n<e. 
 
 Observe, that after a few layers of the 
 sirup, the mpentbooduM parts nt lira and 
 the piiwder form a white cnisl at the Ixitloin 
 of the pan; a- -.>. .11 as it acquires any de- 
 gree of thickne.-s, the pan must le taken 
 from the lire, the almonds can-fully icmoved 
 \vith an iron .-palnla. anil the crust broken 
 off; when tin; pan h,,- I c.-n well washed and 
 dried, replace the almond* and pi i 
 your woik. This mi'-t ! sti icily attended 
 to, not only with this, Imi in making all 
 kinds of sweetmeats. The sugar tlms clear- 
 ed away may be made useful for many pur- 
 
 Common Almond Dragees are made in 
 the same manner; the onlv dilVen-iici; con- 
 
 .-i.-t.-- in having ingredient! of an inferior 
 quality. 
 
 ALMONDS (MILK or) FANCHON- 
 
 M.ITKS. r.lanch and pound eight ounce* 
 of sweet and one of bitter almonds, and 
 when the paste is very line, add to it three 
 glasses of nearly tailing milk, then press 
 this mixture ihroiigli a napkin to draw out 
 tlie. milk. Put into a slewpan four yolks 
 tin II- ounces of powder- 
 t'our, and a grain of salt, mix them 
 well tojciher, and add by degrees tlie al- 
 iiii.n i milk, put thin on a moderate fire, stir- 
 ring it constantly. Line about thirty tartlet 
 moulds with thin puff ,i:i-te, and put on them 
 a little of tin: aU.xe | ! ; iiation, and bak? 
 tlicm in a moderate oven. When properK 
 done, t.ike them out and let them cool. Mix 
 with the " hites of three hard 
 
 n , siir it well to soften 
 v\ 01 k easily ; put some 
 
 of the remainder of your pri para t ion on 
 each of tlie fancltonneitcx, and C..UT tliem 
 lightly wiili tliu e.;.,' ; .lie of igg 
 
 on tlie blade of a ktrge knife, and with a 
 small one ag quirk as possible take off sev- 
 en meringues about tlie si/.e of a tilbert, 
 and arrange them in the form of a crown on 
 each fanchonnette; when you have done 
 live or six, cover them with powder-sugar 
 very equally, and llicn bake tin i:> in a cool 
 oven. When of a reddish brown they are 
 done and may be served. 
 
 ALMOND CHEESE, BITTER. Peel, 
 wash, and drain, three ounce* of sweet, and 
 one ounce of bitter almonds, pound them to 
 a paste, moistening with two spoonful of 
 water. Put them into an earthen pan, with 
 two glasses of nearly Ixjilin;; milk, in which 
 eight ounces of sii^'ar have been dissolved ; 
 let (his stand an hour, then stiaiu it through 
 a fine 8Je\e, and put to it six drachms of 
 isinglass lukewarm; place the whole in ice 
 and when il U'gins to set, add some whipped 
 cream; pour it into a mould which hag been 
 kept in ii:e, put it in ice ayaiu for half an 
 hour, and then take the fromuge from tlie 
 mould. 
 
 ALMOND FLUMMERY. Boil three 
 
 ounces of hai t.-hoin in two quarts of spring 
 u.iier; let it Dimmer six or seven hours till 
 half the wati-r is consumed ; strain il through 
 a >ie\e; lieat half a pound of almonds very 
 line, with a quantity of orange-flower water; 
 mix a little of the jelly and some fine sugar 
 ith it ; strain it with the rest of the jelly, 
 stirring it till it is a little more than blood 
 warm ; jxmr it inlo liasius or cups, and stick 
 in almonds cut small. 
 
 ALMOND GARLANDS. Take half 
 a pound of march-pane paste, the whiten i.f 
 two nr three i-^.;s, some [lowiiered cinnamon 
 and a little Hour, knead them into a pafte, 
 and roll them into the form of sausages with 
 your hand on tlie table, first strewing the 
 table with almonds minced, but not very fine ; 
 so that they may adhere to the sauKip -, 
 which ought to lie about the size of jxmr 
 finger ; then lonn them into rings or gar- 
 ni" what size you please, fixing the ends 
 toLjeilK-r with water: place them on paper, 
 and bake them in a quick oven until they are 
 of a clear brown color. 
 
 ALMOND LITTLE CAKE, BITTER. 
 
 Pound six drachms of bitter almond)', strain 
 them through a sie\e, and mix them in an 
 earthen \csscl, with nearly the. white of an 
 egg, and nix ounces of sugar, stir these with 
 a silver ?|Kion for a few minutes. Take 
 three-qnai ten: of a pound of puff paste, roll 
 it to the thickness of a qnaitcr of an inch, 
 and rut out of it thirty oral cake* i\m inciw-w 
 and a l.a'f long by two .oui a quarter wi<te 
 pointed ai tlie ends ; put on each a quarter
 
 ALM 
 
 254 
 
 ALM 
 
 of a spoonful of the almond glaze, and with 
 die blade of a knife spread it equally over 
 the surface for about the eighth of an inch, 
 and then let them stand for hall' an hour 
 before von put them into the oven, which 
 must !* moderate. If you bake them imme- 
 diately after putting on the glaze, it wrinkles 
 and shrivels up, which spoils their appear- 
 ance, as they ought to be quite smooth and 
 even ; the cakes also require considerable 
 care in the baking ; they should be slightly 
 colored on the top and the lower part red- 
 dish. 
 
 ALMOND GENOESE, BITTER. 
 
 Blanch two ounces four drachms of swrd, 
 and two ounces and a half of billet' almonds, 
 pound them to a paste and then put them 
 into the following preparation : blanch and 
 pound four ounces of sweet almonds, and 
 when perfectly smooth, mix them in an earth- 
 en pan will) six ounces of flour, the same of 
 powder-sugar, six yolks and two whole eggs, 
 a spoonful of brandy and a grain of salt. 
 Stir the whole for six minutes, then add six 
 ounces of butter slightly warmed but not 
 melted ; work ihe butter well into the paste 
 for four or five minutes. Butler two moulds, 
 or paper cases, about nine or ten inches 
 square, pour in your preparation, smooth it 
 with the blade of a knife and then put them 
 to bake in a moderale oven, firsl strewing 
 on them four ounces of sweel almonds minced 
 and mixed with two ounces of powder-sugar, 
 and a little white of egg. When done, cul 
 them inlo all possible forms, then replace 
 them in the oven to dry ; when britlle, lake 
 them out, let them cool, and decorate them 
 to your fancy. 
 
 ALMOND, GRILLAGE. Blanch 
 half a pound of almonds, cut them into four 
 or five slips, lengthways, pralinez them 
 with three-eighths of a pound of sugar, sand 
 them when they begin to crackle ; then put 
 them on the fire again till they are well mixed 
 together >and form a mass, which put on 
 wafer-paper lightly oiled, lay it flat, strew 
 over it cinnamon, sugar, plain or white 
 nonpareils, and then cut it in pieces. 
 
 ALMOND KNOTS. Take two pounds 
 of almonds, and blanch them in hot water ; 
 beal ihem in a mortar, to a very fine paste, 
 will) rose waier, be careful to keep them from 
 oiling. Take a pound of double-refined su- 
 gar, sifted through ft lawn sieve, leave out 
 some to make up the knots, put the rest in 
 a pun upon the fire, till it is scalding hot, at 
 the same time have the almonds scalding 
 hot in another pan ; then mix them together 
 with the whites of three eggs beaten to froth, 
 and let it stand until it is cold ; then roll it 
 with some of the stijjar left out for lliat 
 
 purpose, and lay ihem in philters of paper. 
 They will not roll into shape, tlierefore lay 
 them as well as may be, and bake tlicm in 
 a slow oven. 
 
 ALMOND MILK. Take six onnces of 
 sweet almonds, and a pinl of milk, four 
 drachms of orange-flower water, and five 
 ounces of sugar. Blanch and pound the 
 almonds to a very smooth pasle, moistening 
 them occasionally with a few drops of milk ; 
 when your paste crumbles, pul il in llie milk 
 and mix them well, and boil it till reduced 
 to half, then let it boil up once more ; let 
 it cool and serve. 
 
 ALMOND MIRLITONS. Blanch an 
 ounce of sweel, and the same of biller al- 
 monds, and dry ihem in an oven ; when cold. 
 pound them with a little white of egg to 
 prevent their oiling ; then put them into an 
 earthen pan with Iwo ounces of bitter maca- 
 roons, five ounces of powder-sugar, four whole 
 eggs, and a grain of salt ; when these are 
 well mixed together, add two ounces of butter, 
 lukewarm. Make a proper quantity of puff 
 pasle, roll it out thin, and cut it into thirty 
 round pieces alxjut Iwo inches and three- 
 quarters in diameter, and put each ot these 
 into a tartlet mould buttered ; put ihe mirli- 
 tons on lliis, and when all are equally full, 
 cover them with powder sugar sifted over 
 them through a laininy ; as soon :is lliat is 
 dissolved strew more (but not such fine) pow- 
 der sugar over, and bake diem in a moderate 
 oven. Serve either hot or cold. 
 
 ALMOND MONCEAUX. Take half 
 a pound of sweet almonds, cul them into thin 
 slips (lengthways) and roast ihem on an iron 
 until they are of a deep yellow color, inclin- 
 ing to brown ; beat up the whiles of six or 
 eight eggs with a spoon in an earthen pan. 
 Pour over ihe almonds a pound of sugar finely 
 powdered, (bar ounces of candied orange peel, 
 ihe same of candied lemon-peel, also cul into 
 thin slips, half a spoonful of |wwdered cinna- 
 mon, and six or eight cloves pounded ; mix 
 these ingredients well in tlie pan, and place 
 it on paper in little heaps of a pyramidal 
 form, and bake them in a well-healed oven. 
 
 ALMOND PASTE. Blanch two pounds 
 of sweet almonds, and soak them in cold 
 water for twelve hours, then dry them in a 
 napkin, and pound a quarter of them to a 
 very fine paste with a litlle water and lemon- 
 juice, pass them through a sieve, and then 
 pound the remainder (half a (xiiind al a lime.) 
 When all are done, mix them with a pound 
 of sifted sugar ; place them over a gentle fire, 
 stirring it continually, until the paste will 
 (low from the spoon ; then pour it into a 
 mortar, and when it becomes lukewarm,
 
 ALM 
 
 255 
 
 ALM 
 
 pound it again with an ounce of gum-dragon 
 previously dissolved in a glass of water and 
 strained, the juice of two lemons, and a 
 pound of sifted sugar. As soon as \"iir | -aste 
 is of the pro|>er consistence, take it out and 
 lay it on the slab, sprinkled first with sn_rar ; 
 divide your |>a$te into three (Kills, and color 
 each part according to your fancy. The 
 coloring or dyes are made of the same 
 materials as are used for almonds. 
 
 ALMOND PASTE to keep tix, or 
 even twelve months. Ulancli and pound 
 a pound of sweet almonds, moistened occa- 
 sionally with water, to prevent their oiling; 
 when well beaten, add half a pound of fine 
 [x>wdered sugar, and mix the whole into a 
 pa-te to use when you have occasion. When 
 wanted, mix a piece about tlie size of an egg 
 with three gills of water, and strain it through 
 a napkin. 
 
 ALMOND PRALINFS, (dried, pre- 
 served or burnt.) A |>nund of the best 
 almonds must be washe'i in cold water ; 
 when thoroughly dry, put them into a pre- 
 -i i \ ing |>an w ilh a |x>und of .-uu.ir and a pint 
 ami a half of water, keep them on the tire, 
 stirring (hem continually, until they crackle 
 and fly about, and the sugar Ix-gins to color, 
 stir them alxuit gently to gather the 
 and leave them in the pan to dry about two 
 hours, in a stove or any moderate heat. 
 
 ALMONDS, RED CRISPED. Pre- 
 pare tliem as alxive until they have taken 
 the sugar and are ready to be taken off' the 
 fire, put tlie almonds ujwn a sieve with a 
 dish under, take the sugar that drops, and 
 put it into the same pan, adding a little 
 fresh ; refine it till it comes to the twelfth 
 degree au caste, then take cochineal, color 
 sufficient to tin,-.- the almonds, and put them 
 therein ; give them a few turns over the (ire 
 jar, ar.it finish as at lir.-t. 
 
 ALMOND SWEETMEATS (YEL- 
 LOW.) Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, 
 wash them in cold water, and wlien quite dry, 
 pound them with a vtithVient quantity of yolks 
 of eggs, into a line but rather still' i 
 add to them a pound of |x>wdcrrd sugar and 
 tl>e rinds of two lemons Crated ; knead tlie 
 patte well with your hands, first sprinkling 
 tlio table with sugar. Form tlie paste into 
 what figures you plea-.-, nidi as fleur-de-lis, 
 trefoil, &c. each Iwing about thenize and 
 weight of a macaroon. PI. ice tl)em on white 
 pajx-r and on an iron plate, fry them in a mo- 
 deraleU hot sto\e. If tley are of a deep 
 yellow, they are sufficiently done. T|ICM- 
 i IMI-; ii- 111. iv Ix; still further ornamented 
 in tlie follow i ni; manner: I'.oil -oni.- 
 in orange-flower water to the degree c-.illud 
 
 grande plume, and as soon as the sweet- 
 meat.- are taken from the stove or oven, wash 
 them over w ith a light brush dipped in the 
 sirup; this will give them a delicious per- 
 fume, and they may then be called it la 
 glace. When cohi, take tliem from tlie 
 (Kiper and put them into glasses for the table. 
 
 ALMONDS, ROCK OF ALICAN- 
 TE, SPANISH. Clarify honey, and 
 stir into it as many blanched almonds as 
 you can entangle. Leave it to cool. This 
 makes a pretty crystaline ornament t'lr the 
 dessert ; it is also called Rock of Gibraltar. 
 
 ALMOND WAFERS. Take a pound 
 of sweet almonds, blanch and pound them, 
 add a pound of powder-sugar, a pinch of 
 orange-flowers pralinee, put them into a 
 la-in. and moisten them with a sufficient 
 quantity of whites of c^gs to enable you to 
 spread the paste on wafer pa|x-r with the 
 blade of a Knife (tlie wafer paper must be 
 rubbed with virgin wax and sweet oil) ; lay 
 tlie pi eviration on as thin as possible ; chop 
 some sweet almonds very small, mix them 
 with sugar, and strew them over the wafers 
 and [Hit them into a hot oven ; when about 
 half baked, take them out and cut them in 
 squares ; replace them a minute in the oven, 
 take them out again, and- press Ihem on a 
 stick to give them tlie proper form 1 ; as soon 
 a- they are cold, put them on a sievo. Just 
 liefore they are served they should be Slightly 
 wanned. 
 
 ALMOND COMPOTE, GRF'.V.N. 
 
 Take the peel very carefully from you r al- 
 monds, and put them with water on tlie >'irc. 
 till they are tender ; then take them o(Ta*nd 
 add a little more water ; when nearly co Id 
 put tliem on tlie fire again, but do not lei* 
 them boil ; as soon as you find the head of 
 a pin will penetrate easily, they are then 
 sufficiently done, and may be thrown into 
 cold water; and when tlie fruit is quite cold, 
 drain them. In the meantime put some 
 clarified sugar on the fire, and when it boils 
 put in tlie almonds ; boil them in the sugar 
 about twenty times, then remove them, and 
 let the almonds stand to take the sugar : in 
 about two hours' lime put them on tlie fire 
 again, and Ixjil tliem up a dozen times ; after 
 which, take them oft, skim, and let. them 
 cool. When quite cool drain and put the 
 fruit in a compotier. If tlie sugar should 
 not he sufficiently done, boil as much more 
 a- \oii may think necessary ; squeeze in tlie 
 juice of an orange, Ixiil it once again, and 
 when nearly cold strain it through a cloth 
 into the compotier over tlie almond*. 
 
 ALMOND NONPAREILS, GREEN. 
 
 Drain some green almonds that have been
 
 ANG 
 
 256 
 
 ANG 
 
 preserved in brandy ; dip them one by one 
 in sugar prepared an casse, and roll them 
 in white, or any other colored nonpareils, 
 and dry them in a stove, or gentle oven. 
 
 ALMOND (GREEN) PRESERVED. 
 Put some water into a saurepan, with two 
 liandfuls of bran, and when it has lx>!led up 
 twice, throw in some green almonds ; let 
 1 them boil up once, then !;ike them out with 
 a skimmer, an 1 rub them well in your han.ls 
 to take off the down ; as you do this, throw 
 them into cold water ; then boil them in 
 water till, on pricking them, a pin easily 
 enters and they shrink : then clarify some 
 svigar, a pound to a pound of fruit ; boil up 
 the sirup fjur or five successive days, morn- 
 ing and evening, without the fruit, which 
 you leave to drain upon a sieve ; lastly, put 
 the fruit into a pan, and when rather more 
 than lukewarm, pour the sirup over it ; when 
 they look very green they are sufficiently 
 done. 
 
 ANDAYE BRANDY. An ounce of 
 bruised aniseed, an ounce of bruised corian- 
 der seed, two ounces of powdered Florence 
 iris, the j'.estes of two oranges ; put them 
 with thref quarts of dislillc I brandy into the 
 alembic bain-marie ; dissolve two poun Is 
 and a lialf of sn^ar in two pints and a half 
 of clear river water, ad I them to the distilled 
 liquejur, pass the whole through a strainer, 
 and put into buttles. 
 
 VGELTCA CAKES. Take four oun- 
 octs of angelica powder, and two pounds of 
 fi/ne sugar. Beat up the white of an egg 
 MI i th a little sifted sugar, until it is of the con- 
 /sistence of cream cheese ; dissolve the sujjar 
 / in a skillet and skim it ; when it has boiled 
 a little, throw in the angelica, and boil the 
 sugar to petit cassf, then take it from the 
 fire, put in half a spoonful of the twaten e:jg, 
 and stir it quickly until the sugar i ises, then 
 stop, and when it has fallen again, stir till 
 it rises a seron,) time ; it may now be pour- 
 ed into moulds or papet cases, well oiled and 
 sprinkled with sifted sugar. 
 
 ANGELICA (ESSENCE OF) JELLY. 
 Having washed and well dried two ounces of 
 angelica-roots ; cut them in pieces and throw 
 them into boiling sirup, (three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar,) with an ounce of bruised 
 angelica seeds ; cover the mixture close, and 
 when cold, add to it half a glass of kirsch- 
 laasser, and pass it through a tammy; then 
 filter, and afterwards put to it an ounce of 
 isinglass : stir it lightly with a silver spoon; 
 pound ten pounds of ice, and put it into a 
 large sieve or pan, place your mould in the 
 middle of the ice, taking care that it touches 
 the ice in every part ; pour the jelly into the 
 
 mould, cover it with a saucepan lid, put ice 
 on that, and let it stand for three hours ; after 
 that time have ready a saucepan large enough 
 to take in the moult easily ; fill it with water 
 so warm that you can scarcely bear your hand 
 in it ; plunge the mould in so as to allow the 
 water to pass over the whole, but as quickly 
 as possible, anil then turn the jelly into your 
 dish for table. This last operation should 
 be performed with great agility. Observe, 
 in making these kind of jellies, that no tinned 
 or pewter vessels or spoons should be used, 
 as they impart a violet tinge to your jellies, 
 which ought to be of the color of the ingre- 
 dients employed, as for instance the, above 
 should be a clear light green color. 
 
 ANGELICA LIQUEUR. Wash, 
 scrape, and cut in small pieces, twelve ounces 
 of fresh, or half the quantity of Bohemian 
 angelica roots, and infuse them for a week 
 in six pints of brand v and one of water, with 
 a drachm of mace, two drachms of cinnamon, 
 and twelve cloves ; at the end of that time 
 distil it, then dissohe three pounds of sugar 
 in three pints of water ; mix it with the 
 liqueur, strain it through a jelly-bag, or fil- 
 ter it through paper. Observe, that the best 
 brandy lor liriuiurs is that which is made 
 at Montpelier, EU it yields more in distilla- 
 tion than the Cogniac. Take notice also 
 that the first drops which Till from the alem- 
 bic after it is placed on the stove, must not 
 be mixed with the liqueur. A glass should, 
 therefore, lie placed under the mouth of the 
 alembic to receive them, and when about a 
 quarter of it is filled you may remove it, and 
 place your bottles or matrass. The phlegm, 
 as these droppings are culled, are good for 
 nothing. 
 
 ANGELICA PASTE. Take young and 
 pithy angelica stalks, boil them till tender, 
 drain and press all the water out ; beat them 
 in a mortar to a paste, and rub it through a 
 sieve. Next day dry it over the lire, and to 
 every pound of paste put a pound of powder- 
 sugar. When the |>aste is hot add the sugar, 
 stirring it till thoroughly mixed, over a gentle 
 fire. Drop it on plates, ilnst a little sugar 
 over them, and dry them in a stove. 
 
 ANGELICA PRESERVED. Take the 
 stalks of angelica when of a good size, but 
 before they have run to seed ; clear off the 
 leaves, and as you cut (he stalks into proper 
 lengths throw them into water, and boil them 
 till the stalks are soft; take them from the 
 fire, and put them into cold water ; take off" 
 the skin, and again put them into 'cold water; 
 then drain and put them into an earthen pan, 
 and pour over a sufficient quantity of clarified 
 sugar to float the angelica. In twenty-four 
 hours boil the sugar ten or a dozen times,
 
 ANI 
 
 257 
 
 ANI 
 
 and when lukewarm pour it over tlie stalks. 
 Proceed in the same way for four succeeding 
 dajs ; alter wliidi, drain tlif stalks, and in 
 tlie meanwhile boil the sugar (adding more, 
 if necessary ) to the degree grande perlt ; 
 put tlie angelica to this, cover it close, and 
 let it boil five or six times. Take it from 
 tile lire, scum, and put it by in pots. 
 
 ANGELICA PRESERVED DRY. 
 
 Proceed as for the liquid, until you have 
 jxjnred (lie sujjar aw grand perlt, over the 
 angelica ; leave it for a day in tlie sugar, 
 then drain and dry it on slates, or iron plalcs, 
 in a stove. - 
 
 .\\cr.I.lCA RATAFIA. Take six 
 pints of brandy, a pint of river water, three 
 pound- of sn^ar, two ounces of fresh slithered 
 Bageltca-rooU, the sune (jiianlity of angelica 
 see.l ; mace and clo\e, a drachm of each. 
 \\';t.h and dry the roots well, cut them in 
 slices, ami put them, with tlie seeds and 
 spices bruised, into the brandy, to infuse for 
 twenty d:i\s ; tlien strain it, and lumng ad- 
 ded to it the sugar dissolw-d in river water, 
 filler anil Untie your ratafia. 
 
 A N< ;ELJCA RATAFIA, strip tiw an- 
 
 geliea stalks nf their leaves, and cut them 
 into .-in. ill pieces, which put into the best 
 brandy and water, in the proportion of four 
 litiex of U-.tndy and two of water to one 
 pound of angelica, and four pounds of sugar 
 to the name quantity ; add cloves and cinna- 
 mon ; lei it stand six weeks, then filter und 
 bottle it. 
 
 ANGELICA WATER. Wash . i.-ht 
 handfuls of angelica leaves, cut, and lay tlx-in 
 on a table to dry. \Vheii (juite dry, put 
 them in an earthen |xit with a gallon of strong 
 wine lees. Ijct it stand twenty-four hours, 
 stir it twice in dial time, iln-n put it into a 
 warm still or alembic ; draw off into bottles, 
 < '.\en .1 with p.i | x-r pricked in holes, anil let 
 them stand thus two or three days. Sweeten 
 it, and when it is settled, bottle, and .-top it 
 close. 
 
 ANISEED, OIL OF. Is made like ani- 
 
 wed water, the only dilleience is, that an 
 additional pound of sugar is necessary to 
 mrikc the simp. 
 
 AMSE PETIT PAINS. Put two 
 glasses of water and two ounce? of fresh but- 
 ter in'-. i .-(ew|iaii.aiid when the liquid boils 
 . take it from the tire, and mix with it six 
 Winces of sifted flour; amalgamate it thor- 
 oughly, s.i that it may lie quite free from 
 lumps ; then t\\y it over the tire. Take i 
 out of tlie saucepan, and add to it two eggs 
 and two ounces of powder-funr; mix then 
 22* 
 
 well in, and then put in two more eggs and 
 the ztste of a lemon minced fine : when 
 ihese are also well incorporated, add another 
 egg or two, if tlie puste (which should lie ra- 
 her firm,) will bear them. Sprinkle your 
 r.iste slab with flour, cut the paste into 
 lieees, each the size of a walnut; roll these 
 with as little flour as possible, to about three 
 incites long, and as you roll them plnce them 
 on a baking-tin, two inches apart; dorez 
 and bake them in a tolerably warm oven till 
 they are firm. Then cut some anise into 
 fillets, boil a quarter of a pound of sugar to 
 casse, and the moment it re-aches (hat de- 
 gree set it by the side of the fire that the 
 sugar may not lose its whiteness; dip the 
 top and one side of each petit pain in the 
 Mi*ar .is quick as possible, and as you take 
 them out, strew the anise over them lightly. 
 Red anise is also used for these petit 
 pains. 
 
 ANISEED RATAFIA. To make a 
 
 quart of this liqueur, Ixiil a |xiiind of sugar 
 with a demisetier of water, until the sugar 
 is quite clear; then lieat another demisetier 
 of water, and put in it three ounces of anise; 
 take it from the lire before it boils; let it 
 stand a quarter of an hour, and then pour it 
 with three pints of brandy into llie sugar; 
 mix all well together, and then pour into a 
 \e.--el, which must be closed tight, and 
 placed in the sun. Let il stand three weeks, 
 and then bottle it. 
 
 ANISEED WATER. Choose eight 
 minces of new green anise, sift it well to 
 free it from the dust, and then infuse in six 
 pints of brandy, with the scestes of three 
 lemons, and half an ounce of cinnamon; in 
 a week's time distil it over a moderate fire, 
 put a pint of water into the alembic; take 
 care to collect the phlegm Ix-l'.re you draw 
 oft'lhe aniseed water. Dissolve three pounds 
 of sugar in three pints of water. As the 
 anise contains an acid salt, which render* 
 this liqueur milky, the following proceeding 
 is necessary: Reserve a pint of the water 
 from that in which you dissolved the sugar, 
 and mix with the white of three or four 
 eggs, well whippet], and while the sirup's 
 hot put to it this egg-water and the aniseed 
 water; stir it over the fire until the whole 
 is hot without boiling; then put it into a 
 glass jar, cork it well, and let it stand; the 
 next day bottle and filler il. 
 
 ANISETTE DE BORDEAUX. Take 
 two ounces of green aniseed, half a pound 
 of aniseed, two ounces of coriander, and the 
 same of fennel seeds. Bruise, and put them, 
 with sixteen pints of brandy, into an alem- 
 bic bain-marie. " Then d'issolvo thirteen 
 pounds of sugar in two quart* of river water.
 
 APP 
 
 258 
 
 APR 
 
 which must be put to your liqueur when dis- 
 tilled. Filter and bottle it. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. Turn twelve 
 email apples, cut them into halve*, and boil 
 them in simp, then leave them to cool. 
 When they are cold, make an extremely 
 thin crust with brioche paste. Make a 
 fritter for each half apple, then fry them and 
 finish the same as Fritters d la Dauphine. 
 
 Pears cut into quarters are made in the 
 same manner as the above. 
 
 APPLES AND ALMONDS LITTLE 
 CAKES. Proceed the same as above till 
 the marmalade is spread over the under- 
 crust, then cover it with almonds cut in fil- 
 lets, press them in lightly; mask them villi 
 powder-sugar and bake in a moderate oven. 
 As soon as cold, cut your gateaux accord- 
 ing to your fancy, either round, oblong, lo- 
 zenge, or crescent-shaped. 
 
 APPLE MARMALADE, LITTLE 
 CAKES. Make a marmalade of twenty-four 
 
 apples in the usual way, with a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pot of 
 apricots, and the zeste of a lemon, shred 
 fine. Make your paste, and proceed as di- 
 recte ! lor IVtits (iateaux glares of apricots. 
 Sprinkle them (uhen marked) with powder- 
 sugar. Bake them in a moderate oven and 
 finish them. 
 
 APPLE PETIT GATEAUX WITH 
 
 PISTACHIOS. Make an under-crust of the 
 same size and thickness as directed for petits 
 g&teanx glacts of apricots, and cover it 
 with apple marmalade; when baked, mash 
 the apples with a little apricot marmalade, 
 and strew over a quarter of a pound of pis- 
 tachio nuts cut in small pieces, and then put 
 it in the oven again for a few minutes to dry 
 the apricots. When cold cut them into the 
 usual forms. 
 
 APPLES AND PISTACHIOS. Pre- 
 pare and toss up a dozen apples for this 
 gateau with apples and raisins, with the ad- 
 dition of two ounces of sugar, and instead 
 of the zeste of an orange, grate that of a 
 lemon, and put three ounces of pistachio nuts 
 blanched, in the place of the raisins. Pro- 
 ceed in the same manner as directed in that 
 recipe, strewing on the dome of the gateau 
 pistachio and sugar, each nut cut into six 
 pieces; and when the crown is put round 
 the band, place a pistachio nut in the mid- 
 dle of each meringue, bake it of a light 
 color in a slow oven, and serve it hot. 
 
 APPLE MERINGUEES. Put some 
 apple marmalade on a dish, in a pyramid: 
 
 whip the whites of two eggs to a froth, mix 
 with them two spoonfuls of powder-sugar 
 and a little lemon-peel chopped extremely 
 small; decorate your apples with this prep- 
 aration, glaze them with sugar, and color 
 them in the oven. 
 
 APPLE MERINGUE. Layamta/e 
 paste in a tart pan, e<jg and prick it all over, 
 and bake it; lay in it a puree of apples, and 
 finish with white of egg, as for a la Turque; 
 serve it hot. 
 
 APPLES PUREE. Peel and core a 
 dozen or more good baking apples ; set them 
 over the fire to stew with some clarified 
 sugar and a small bit of letnou-peel; when 
 soft, stir them well with a wooden spoon, 
 and put in a spoonful of apricot jam; stir it 
 at times till the jam is mixed and the apples 
 thicken, then rub the whole through a 
 tammy. 
 
 APPLES, SOUFFLE PARISIEN. 
 
 Make a marmalade of three dozen apples, 
 half a poun.l of powder-wigar, the peel of a 
 lemon, and a glass of water; dry it as much 
 as you possibly can, for on that the good ap- 
 pearance of the souffle parisien chiefly 
 de|H'iids; (lien put it into a large stewpan. 
 Whip the whiter! of fifteen eggs to a strong 
 froth, with a |x>und of powder-sugar. Mix 
 a quarter of this at first, with the apple mar- 
 malade, then stir the whole together, and 
 pour it into a croustade prepared as usual. 
 (See SOUFFLE.) Bake it for an hour in a 
 moderate oven. Serve it as soon as possi- 
 ble after taking it from the oven. Glaze it 
 with powder-sugar. 
 
 APPLE SIRUP. Take six apples, 
 pare and cut tlicin into small pieces; put 
 them into a matrass with three-quarters of 
 a pound of sugar and two glasses of water; 
 stop it close and place it in a bain marie, 
 and leave it about i\vo hours, letting the 
 water be boiling; move the matrass fre- 
 quently without taking it out of the water; 
 this must be done carefully lest it should 
 break on being exposed to the cold air; 
 when done put out the fire, and let the mat- 
 rass cool before you take it out. When the 
 sirup is nearly cold, flavor it with lemon- 
 juice, and add a spoonful of spirits of lemon 
 or cinnamon, orange-flower water, or what- 
 ever else you may choose. If any drega 
 should arise, let it stand for some hours 
 longer, and then gently pour the sirup into 
 bottles. Great care must be taken to pre- 
 vent its being muddy. 
 
 APRICOTS BOTTLED. Press die 
 quantity of ripe apricots you may require
 
 APR 
 
 259 
 
 APR 
 
 through a horse-hair sieve; put the pulp into j 
 Kittles, cork them very close, anil tie them 
 over; place these iMlles upright in a lame 
 Kaucepan, with hay between to prevent their 
 touching ; put the saucepan on the lire, and 
 fill it with water. When the water is near 
 boiling, take it off and let it stand till the 
 bottles are cold; then put them in a cellar, 
 without touching each other, until wanted, j 
 when they will be found as good to use as 
 frc.-li fruit. The apricots may also be pre- j 
 served whole by tin- game means. 
 
 APRICOTS IN BRANDY. Choose 
 your apricots wlion quite ri|je, let them l>e 
 free from spots, rnli them carefully with a 
 linen cloth, to take off the down. Wei^h 
 your fruit, and to each pound put a quarter 
 of a pound ofsninr. Clarify it, and boil it 
 to the decree grand ptrle, tlien put in the 
 Hprin>t>: Imil them three or four times, tak- 
 ini; c.ue tu turn them fni|iii>ntly, that they 
 may lake the suijar in all parts. Take theiii 
 off the lire, and put them one by one into 
 L r l i-- lili'e<; the sirup In-in^ by this lime i 
 nearly col I. jvmr llie brandy (three dfrni't- ' 
 tiert to each pound) into it by degrees, stir- 
 ring coii-lan!l\ lo mix it well with the .-imp. 
 When thoroughly incorporated, pour it into 
 the bottles, t!ir fruit at lirst will float; but 
 when the brandy and mi-Tar have soaked in 
 thcv will sink to the tiottoin; tliey are then 
 fit to eat. 
 
 APRICOT COMPOTE, GREEN. 
 
 (ireen apricots are done exactly the same as 
 green almonds. See ALMONDS. 
 
 APRICOT COMPOTE. Peel, cut, 
 
 nnd take the stones from your fruit, anil |xit 
 them on the fire in a little water, and when 
 they rixe tliey are muTicieiiily done, and may 
 be taken out, cooled, and drained. Then 
 put them into a little clarified sugar and give 
 them three or f.mr Imilings; skim them well, 
 and then put your li nit aside; boil the sugar 
 alone fiur or live tim-< more, and pour it 
 over (lie apricots. When cold place them 
 in the rompn 
 
 Al'RICOT CONSERVE. Take half- 
 ripe apn ols, |*-el and cut them into thin 
 s till-in iner a gentle fire; to four 
 : fruit put one pound of sugar, boil- 
 ed to tl? degree la plume forte; when the 
 iii: ir IT- nearly col.l put in llic fniit, taking 
 tore to K ' it well with a spoon, lh.it they 
 may be wj|l incorporated. 
 
 APRICOTS PARISIEN. Take five 
 dozen vei\ line apricot.-, "'lit them in h.-ilf, 
 and put ill. .n, a few at .1 time, over the fire, 
 with half a p. inn 1 of sugar an. I fmr glxsees 
 of water; a* soon as you find the peel will 
 
 come off easily, take them out and drain 
 them, and put fresh apricots into the sirup, 
 and proceed the same until all are pealed, 
 then reduce the sirup to the usual consis- 
 tence. Put a pound of rice, half a pound 
 of butter, the .- HIM- of sugar, on which grate 
 t heresies of four lemons, a little i-alt, eight 
 or nine glasses of milk, and three-quarters 
 of a pound of raisins, into a saucepan, and 
 when it Ixjils take it from the fire and put it 
 on hot cinders, stirring it occasionally for 
 an hour, when, if the rice be quite soft, mix 
 the yolks often eggs with it. 
 
 APRICOTS IN JELLY. Pare and 
 stone your apricots, scald them a little, lay 
 them in a pan, and cover them with clari- 
 fied .sugar; next day drain the sinip, and 
 boil it smooth, then add the apricots and 
 Uiil together; the following day make a 
 jelly with codlings, boiling some apricots 
 amon-; them, to give a better flavor. When 
 the jellv is done put in the other fruit with 
 the simp, and boil altogether, skiui it well 
 and put it in glasses. 
 
 APRICOT MARMALADE. Peel the 
 apricots, and take out the stones; to each 
 pound of fruit put three-quarters of a pound 
 of clarified sugar, boil it to the degree grot 
 boulet, then put in the apricots, boil both to- 
 gether: when it flows readily it may be put 
 into pots. 
 
 APRICOT RATAFIA. Peel and cut 
 into pieces as many ripe apricots as you 
 may require, and boil them in while wine 
 (about a pint to four dozen;) strain and 
 mix it with an equal quantity of brandy; 
 put the whole into a jar, with the kernels 
 bruised, add a quarter of a pound of sugar 
 to each pint. Let it infuse for three weeks, 
 then lil;er and bottle it. 
 
 APRICOT SWEETMEAT, WHOLK 
 
 AND DRY. Choose fine firm apricots, make 
 a little opening at the top to take out the 
 stone, put them into cold water, then blanch 
 them over tlie fire; when tliey begin to boil, 
 take out those which are soft, throw them 
 into cold water, and drain them. In die 
 meantime, prc|Kirc some clarified sugar to 
 petit listf.. When it boils put in the apri- 
 cots, and Ixiil up a few times together. The 
 next day separate the sugar from the fruit, 
 boil & la nappe, and then pour it over the 
 _;.iin; the follow ing day boil tlie su- 
 gar petit perl, then add the fruit, and boil 
 together; tlie fourth day drain them; and, 
 having placed tlviii on iron plates, sprinkle 
 them with sugar U-Ioie you put tliem into 
 in dry; when dry, place in boxes 
 . placing a sheet of paper between 
 :\er.
 
 BAR 
 
 260 
 
 BAR 
 
 n. 
 
 BADIANE, INDIAN. Take a pound 
 of starred anise, pound and infuse it in six 
 quarts of good brandy for a week, when 
 add to it a pint and a half of water, and 
 distil it. Dissolve seven pounds and a 
 half of sugar in seven pints of water, and 
 add h to the distilled liqueur. Stir it well, 
 strain and bottle it. This is also called 
 Badiane Cream. Some persons color it 
 with a little cochineal, it is then called Oil 
 of Badiane. 
 
 BALM WINE. Boil twenty pounds of 
 lump sugar in four gallons and a half of 
 water gently for an hour, and put it in a 
 tub to cool. Bruise two pounds of the 
 tops of green balm, and put them into a 
 barrel with a little new yeast, and when 
 the Birup is nearly cold pour it on the 
 balm. Stir it well together, , and let it 
 stand twenty-four hours, stirring frequently ; 
 bring il up, and when, it has stood for six 
 weeks, bottle it. Put a lump of sugar into 
 each bottle ; cork it tight. The longer it 
 is kept the better it will be. 
 
 BALSAM, SIRUP OF. Put an ounce 
 of balsam of tolu into a quart of spring wa- 
 ter, and boil them two hours ; add a pound 
 of white pounded sugar-candy, and boil it 
 half an hour longer. Take out the bal- 
 sam, and strain die sirup twice; when cold, 
 bottle il. 
 
 BARBADOES CREAM. Take the 
 
 zests of three fine cedrats, two drachms of 
 cinnamon, and two of mace, and put them 
 into three quarts of brandy ; close the ves- 
 sel hermetically, and let it infuse for a 
 week, then distil it in un alembic. Dis- 
 solve over the fire three pounds of sugar in 
 a quart of pure river water, add to it half a 
 pound of orange-dower water, work the 
 mixture, and filter it through a straining 
 bag into bottles for use. 
 
 BARBADOES WATER. Take the 
 outer rind of eight large florcnline citrons, 
 half an ounce of bruised cinnamon, and a 
 gallon of rectifed spirit; distil in the bain 
 marie; dissolve two pounds of sugar in a 
 quart of water ; mix it with the distilled 
 liquor ; filter and bottle it for use. 
 
 BARBADOES WATER AMBER- 
 COLORED. Infuse the yellow rind of 
 six bergamots. half an ounce of cinnamon, 
 and two drachms of doves bruised, for six 
 
 days in a gallon of rectified spirit; then 
 add a drachm of saffron, and let the whole 
 stand six days longer. Dissolve two pounds 
 of sugar in a quart of water, add it to the 
 infusion, and filter for use. 
 
 BARBERRY BISCUITS. Press the 
 juice through a sieve from two pounds of 
 barberries, and mix with it five pounds of 
 sifted sugar; whisk the whites of four eggs 
 and add them to the fruit ; prepare some 
 square paper cases, fill them with the jam, 
 make them quite smooth, lay them on 
 sieves, and put them into a stove, and let 
 them remain six or eight days. When 
 perfectly dry, take away the papers : keep 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 BARBERRIES, TO CANDY. Take 
 
 the barberries out of the preserve, and 
 wash off the sirup in warm water ; then 
 sift over them some fine sugar, and set 
 them in an oven, oftn moving them, and 
 strewing sugar upon them until they are dry. 
 
 BARBERRY DROPS. Cut off the 
 
 black tops, and roast the fruit Ijefore the 
 
 fire till soft enough to pulp with a silver 
 
 i i i 
 
 spoon through a sieve into a china basin, 
 
 then set the basin in a saucepan of water 
 the size of the top of the basin, and stir 
 the barberries till they become thick. 
 When cold, put to every pint, a pound and 
 a half of the best sugar pounded as fine as 
 possible. Beat the fruit and sugar together 
 for two hours and a half (or more for a 
 large quantity), then drop it on sheets of 
 white thick paper. If, when you drop, it 
 runs, there is not sugar enough, and it will 
 look rough if you put too much. 
 
 BARBERRY ICE. Put some barber- 
 ries into a pan without water, set it over 
 a gentle fire, stirring them " constantly ; 
 when warm, pass them through a sieve, 
 into a pan, add to the liquor clarified sugar ; 
 if too thick, put a little water, but no lem- 
 on-juice, as the barberries/.'are sufficiently 
 acid without ; then put it into the sabotiert 
 to congeal. 
 
 BARBERRY ICE CREAM. Put a 
 large spoonful of barberry jam into a pint 
 of cream ; add the juice of a lemon and a 
 little cochineal ; stir it well, and finish as 
 directed, see ICE. 
 
 BARBERRY ICE WATER. Mix one 
 
 spoonful of barberry jam with die juice of 
 a lemon, a pint of water, and a little coch- 
 ineal; pass it through a sieve and freeze it; 
 take care that it is thick and smooth be- 
 fore you put in moulds.
 
 BAR 
 
 261 
 
 HER 
 
 HARRERRY MARCHPANE. Tnke 
 three pounds of sweet almonds, two pounds 
 and a half of s-ii^;ir, and u pound of bar- 
 berries ; pound the almonds to a paste, mix 
 them witli the su^;ir lx>iled to petit boule, 
 and then add tlic juice of the bat tarries 
 strained ; stir them together well, and place 
 them on hot ashes, stirriii^ them continual- 
 ly until the paste is formed; then put it on 
 a talile sprinkled with sugar and let it cool; 
 spread it out nlxwt tlie thickness of a crown 
 piece, cut it into various forms, place them 
 on sheets of pa|x>r, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven and glaze tliem. You may 
 use any other fruit you think proper. 
 
 BARBERRY PASTILE. Dissolve 
 half an ounce of gum-dragon in a glass of 
 water, strain it in a cloth pr bag, and put 
 it into a mortar, with a spoonful of bar- 
 berry marmalade ; mix it well, and add as 
 much pnu !c i--;i_;:ii as will make it into a 
 malleable pasie; you may also put in a lit- 
 tle cochineal dissolved ; form it into what 
 shapes you ]! 
 
 HAKHF.KUIKS PRESERVED IN 
 
 P.rsi in .s. Clim.se those liailx-rries which 
 have tin- '-, which may be ex- 
 
 tracted carefully will* the nib of a pen. 
 ' \ nir fruit, and mix- it will) an 
 
 equal weight of sugar boiled to petit boule; 
 boil them together two or three times, and 
 skim it. St t it a*i(U> in an earfi 
 until the next (lay, when it may be put in 
 pots and covered. 
 
 i:\UriERRY WAFERS. Press out 
 the juice In mi as many barberries as you 
 may require, and mix it with powder-eu- 
 gar, and the white of one egg, and stir it 
 up with a wooden or silver spoon, to a 
 
 y a sheet of wafer paper on 
 
 a baking pl.ite, an I >pread your paste over 
 
 it very tliin with a knife; cut it into twelve 
 
 nid put them round a stick (the 
 
 ; in a hot stove to curl ; when 
 half cuile.l, lake them oil" carefully, and set 
 them up i i) in ays in asie\e; let them stand 
 for a whole day in a hot stove. 
 
 P.AIMIERRY WATER. Put two large 
 
 spoonfuls of barberry jam, the juice of two 
 lemons and a gill of sirup in a ! i 
 dilute it with water; add a little cochineal, 
 and if not rich enough, more sirup; strain 
 it through a fine sieve. 
 
 It.\M.i:V srCAIJ. < -larifj -two pounds 
 of sugar, nut boil it to caramel height, in 
 a deep c ppi i \.-e| with a lip ; pour it in 
 Mraii;lit liaes aliout an inch thick, on a 
 maioie i-l.il) prc\inn-ly ruhtad with butter. 
 Whilst hut, take each end of the stripe of 
 
 sugar and twist it; when cold cut it into 
 proper lengths and put them by in glasses. 
 They must be kept in a dry place. 
 
 BARLEY SUGAR DROPS. Proceed 
 as for barley sugar. Have ready a large 
 sheet of white paper, covered with a smooth 
 layer of sifted sugar. Pour out the boiled 
 sugar in drops the size of a shilling; when 
 cold, fold them separately in paper, a few 
 drops of tlic essence of ginger or lemon will 
 improve the flavor. 
 
 BARLEY SIRUP. Make of a pound of 
 barley three quarts of barley water; strain 
 out the barley, and put to the water a hand- 
 ful of scabious, tonnentil, hyssop, agrimony, 
 horehound, maiden hair, panicle, betons, 
 burage, buglose, rosemary, marigoi 
 violets and cowslips, of each a pint, when 
 picked; a pound of raisins stoned, half 
 a pound of figs cut, a quarter of a pound of 
 dates stoned; half a (xiund of green liquor- 
 ice, caraway, fennel and aniseed, of each 
 one ounce, hartshorn, ivy, elecampane 
 root?, of each an ounce ; the roots of fen- 
 nel, asparagus, couchgrass, polipodium, 
 and oak parsley, of each a handful : clean, 
 bruise the seeds, slice the roots, and put all 
 into the barley water, cover close, and 
 boil gently for twelve hours ; then strain 
 and press out the juice, and let it stand 
 twenty-four hours ; when clear, add to it 
 rose water and hyssop, half a pint of each, 
 and a pint of clarified juice of coltsfoot, a 
 drachm of saffron, three pints of the best 
 honey, and as many pounds of sugar as 
 quarts of liquor, boil this an hour and a 
 half, keeping it clean scummed, then bot- 
 tle it, cork it well, and put by for use. 
 
 BARLEY WATER. Put a quarter 
 of a pound of pearl-lsu ley into two quarts 
 of water, let it boil, skim it very clean, 
 boil half away, and strain it off. Sweeten 
 according to taste, and put in two glasses 
 of white wine, or some lemon-juice. Drink 
 it warm. 
 
 BERGAMOT DROPS. Mix the iuice 
 of four or five lemons, and some sifted su- 
 gar, with a wooden spoon; add to this 
 twenty dro| of essence of bergamot ; mix 
 it well in, and having mined it over the 
 fire three or four minutes, drop it about 
 the size of a sixpence on writing paper, 
 and let them stand till cold. 
 
 BERGAMOT WAFERS. Squeeze 
 six lemons into a basin, and mix some 
 silied sugar, essence of bergamot, and the 
 white of an efg, with the juice ; beat 
 them together till very white; if it becomes 
 too thick, add the juice of another lemon;
 
 262 
 
 BIS 
 
 spread your paste, and dry 'diem as bar- 
 berry wafers. 
 
 BERGAMOT WATER. To the rinds 
 of three bergamots, put a gallon of proof 
 spirit, and two quarts of water ; draw off 
 one gallon by the tain marie, and sweeten 
 with sugar. 
 
 BERGAMOT WATER. Take three 
 gills of sirup, the juice of six lemons, and 
 -when diluted sufficiently with water, add 
 a tea-spoonful of essence of bergamot. 
 Strain it through a fine sieve for use. 
 
 BERGAMOT WATER ICE, Stir 
 together the juice of three lemons, two gills 
 of sirup, half a pint of water, and half a 
 tea-spoonful of essence of bergamot, strain 
 and freeze it. 
 
 BETONY, CONSERVE OF. Take 
 a pound of betony, three pounds of \mf su- 
 gar, beat them in a stone mortar; boil the 
 sugar with two quarts of betony water to 
 the thickness of a simp, then mix them to- 
 
 f ether by little and little, over a gentle 
 re, make it into a conserve, and keep it in 
 glasses. 
 
 BISCUITS. Lny the rind of a lemon 
 in boiling water, till it l>e tender; take half 
 -a pound of sweet almonds, and blanch them 
 in cold water, and two ounces of gum-drag- 
 on, which soak in fair water; tli*n jw::::,! 
 the almonds, putting in as you pound, the 
 whites of two eggs beaten hollow; pound 
 the lemon in a stone mortar by itself, and 
 put the gum and the lemon into the almonds, 
 and mix them well together; then beat a 
 pound of fine sugar in a mortar with the al- 
 monds, gum and lemon, and afterwards add 
 two pounds more of fine sugar, stirring it 
 with a spoon, then roll it up in little rolls, 
 and lay them upon white papers, and set 
 them in the oven. 
 
 BISCUITS IN CASES, Prepare 
 your mixture the same as for spoon biscuits, 
 -and fill some little round or square cases 
 with it. TlH-n with the rolling pin crush 
 some fine sugar, but not to a powder, and 
 trew it over your biscuits, which place on 
 a. cop|>er plate, and when the sugar begins 
 to dissolve put them in a gentle oven, at the 
 mouth of which put a shovel full of burning 
 coals to crystallize the sugar; and when that 
 assumes the appearance of little pearls, re- 
 move the coals and close the oven. These 
 biscuits will require from twenty to twenty- 
 live minutes baking. 
 
 BISCUITS ICED. Beat up the white 
 of eiglit, and the ^olks of six eggs, with a 
 
 pound of fine powdered sugar, for two hours. 
 Have ready fourteen ounces of well-dried 
 sifted flour ; when the oven is ready and 
 your plates buttered, mix the flour as" quick 
 as possible with the eggs, &c,, and lay tlie 
 biscuits on the plates ; you may add a little 
 musk and ambergris. Bake in a quick oven. 
 
 BISCUIT, ITALIAN. Bake a biscuit, 
 made like Iced biscuit, in a plain, round 
 mould ; cut it across, in slices an inch 
 thick ; pour on each slice a spoonful of true 
 maraschino, and when they have imbibed 
 this, place them in their proper form, and 
 mask the whole, either with white of egg and 
 sugar, as biscuit with sweetmeats, or with 
 apricot marmalade, on which strew pounded 
 macaroons. 
 
 BISCUITS OF ITALIAN WATER. 
 
 Whisk up sis eggs, and an equal weight of 
 powder-sugar, for half an hour. Take six 
 more eggs and their weight of flour, and mix 
 all together, and lay this mixture on paper, in 
 cakes the eighth of an inch thick, and about 
 two inches diameter ; lay them quite flat, 
 and do not let them touch. The oven should 
 be hot; five minutes will bake them. When 
 cold, wet the under side of the paper, and 
 they will then remove easily. 
 
 BISCUITS, JUDGES. Break six 
 eggs into a basin, and whisk them well 
 for five minutes, add half a pound of pow- 
 <!ci' -sugar, hud whisk again for ten minutes' 
 longer; put some caraway-seeds and half 
 a pound of dry sifted flour; mix them all 
 together with a wooden spoon. Drop them 
 on paper about the size of a crown-piece, 
 and thick in the middle ; sift sugar over, 
 and bake them in a brick oven. Take 
 them off the paper while hot. 
 
 BISCUITS, LIGHT. Take ten eggs, 
 put the yolks of five in a pan with a few 
 crisped orange- flowers, the peel of a green 
 lemon, both shred fine, and three-quarters 
 of a pound of fine sugar; beat the whole 
 together till the sugar is dissolved and well 
 mixed with the eggs. Beat tle ten whites 
 to a frotlt, aod add to the sugar, stir in 
 lightly, and by degrees, six ounces of flour, 
 put them into buttered moulds, powdering 
 them with fine sugar, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, MANQUES. Put into an 
 earthen pan half a pound of powder-sugar, 
 three-quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, the same of pounded 
 almonds, a little salt, and some orange- 
 flower water, six yolks, and two whole 
 eggs ; beat up these ingredients well ; whip 
 tlie .six whites, and mix them gradually
 
 BIS 
 
 263 
 
 BfS 
 
 with the aboTC preparation ; make a paper 
 case, butter and pour in it your biscuit 
 paste and bake it. Meanwhile cut some 
 almonds into either dice or slips, mix them 
 with some powder-sugar and white of^egg; 
 when the biscuit maiiques la alx>ut tliree 
 parts done, dorez and cover it with this 
 latter mixture ; then replace it in the oven 
 and tinir-li lxikin<;. As soon as it is done, 
 take it out and cut it into whatever forms 
 your fancy may dictate. 
 
 BISCUITS, MARRLED. Make twen- 
 ty-tour eggs, a pound of powder-sugar, and 
 three-quarters of a pound of dried and sifted 
 flour, into a biscuit paste, as directed for 
 Spoon Bitcuits; then beat four ounces 
 of dis.-ol\cd chocolate in an earthen pan, 
 and ad I to it a third of the paste; when it 
 is well mixed, divide it in half, and to one 
 half mix a quarter of the biscuit-paste, which 
 will tinge (hat portion a light chocolate col- 
 or. After this, mix togetl>er some vegeta- 
 ble red and infusion of saffron to color hull' 
 tin- remaining p.iMr orange; then divide 
 that again, and mix the la.-t quarter with 
 half the orange-color, thus your pa.-tc will 
 lx- colored with two shades of chocolate 
 anil two of oraiiye. 
 
 Make two pa|T rases, each eight incli- 
 w square and three high, pour into one of 
 these a large spoonful of the chocolate- 
 pastc. ami when it has spread over the bot- 
 tom of the case, pour in one of the orange- 
 colored, on hich another of the chocolate, 
 'i, alternately, until tin- case is half 
 full ; then sprinkle it with Hour, and put it 
 into a slow oven for three-quarters of an 
 hour. I'ut the remainder of your bi.-ruit- 
 poste (both colors) into a pan and stir them 
 together with a s|x>on till the whole is 
 veined, or clouded w ith tlie two colors ; pour 
 it into the other case, sprinkle it with Hour 
 and bake like the former; when quite cold, 
 cut them into slices about two incites thick, 
 half of which should Ix- broken, and the other 
 half cut in pieces of au equal size, lay them 
 on a Uikii'Lj-plate, and dry them in the oven. 
 These are generally used to make the rocks 
 in ornamental pastry, and may l>e colored 
 with tin; usual materials, according to your 
 fancy . 
 
 BI8C1 ITS, MARCHPANE. Beat a 
 pound of sweet almonds to a very fine 
 
 pa.-tr, moisten them with water, then put 
 them and a pund of powder-sugar into a 
 saucepan. o\i-r a clear but riot tierce char- 
 coal tire, stirring constantly, till the paste 
 it ii loyi-tlicr ; put it on a Homed 
 slab, and woik it well with \our hands for 
 some lime, then roll small piece* of it alxuit 
 tliree incho loir.' and half the thickness of' 
 your little tinker, join the ends of each and 
 
 make them into round rings, lay tliem on a 
 sieve in a dry warm place for two or three 
 days. When wanted, mix some powder- 
 sugar with the whites of eight eggs, and 
 U-at them with a wooden spoon in each 
 hand ; add a cup of orange-flower water. 
 Put your rings into this icing, and cover 
 them completely ; lay them n a sheet of 
 paper and bake in a slow oven until the 
 icing sets and they begin to change color. 
 Do not remove them from the paper till cold. 
 
 BISCUITS, MILLEFRUIT. Take 
 
 preserver] orange and lemon-peel, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of each, six ounces of angel- 
 ica, the same of sweet, and one ounce of 
 bilter almonds; cut all the above ingredients 
 into pieces half an inch long and a quarter 
 wide. Make an icing with white of eggs, 
 sugar and orange-flower water ; put the al- 
 monds, &c. into this, and having paper on 
 your baking-tin, lay the cakes on it, of 
 whatever size you please; then with a hair 
 pencil touch them here and tin-re with a 
 little cochineal. Bake them, but not in too 
 hot an oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, MONKEY. Take the 
 
 weight of six esjifs in powder-sugar, and 
 mix it with the yolks and a little pounded 
 cinnamon; whisk" the whites to a firm froth, 
 and stir them lightly into the yolks; add 
 four whole e<;gs, and their weight of dry- 
 sifted Hour, mix them well together; take 
 this mixture in a spoon, and lav it in about 
 the size of a half-crown piece on paper, 
 join two together with the spoon, and when 
 your paper is full, sprinkle powder-sugar 
 o\er anil bake, them; a lew minutes will do 
 them. Remove them from tlie pa|x>r while 
 hot and put tin,- two undersides together. 
 
 BISCUITS, PRINCESS AMELIA. 
 Put tlie whites of twelve eggs into an earth- 
 en pan, whisk them to a thick snow, and 
 add to them eight ounces of double refined 
 sugar, pounded and sifted; having mixed 
 them, put in three ounces of flour, and three 
 of powder-sugar sifted, tlie grated rind of 
 one or two lemons and half a coffee cup of 
 oiani;e-l|iiwer water, stir them well with a 
 wooden spoon, but take care not to spoil the 
 snow: drop them on paper of a larger size 
 than the sweet biscuits, and bake them to 
 a clear brown in a moderate oven. Take 
 them from the paper while hot. 
 
 BISCUITS, SAVOY. Whip twelve 
 whites of eggs to a snow; beat the yolks 
 w ith a pound and a quarter of powder-sugar, 
 mix them together, with three-quarters of a 
 pound of Hour and the grated rind of a lem- 
 on, into a paste, rub your mould with melted 
 , butter, and bake it.
 
 BIS 
 
 264 
 
 BI9 
 
 BISCUITS, LARGE SAVOY. Take 
 
 fifly-six eggs, four pounds of sugar, the zes- 
 tes of four oranges, a pound and three-quar- 
 ters of potatoe-flour sifted ; and make your 
 biscuit as follows: grate the zestes of the 
 oranges on a piece of sugar, and as soon as 
 it becomes colored, scrape it off, and grate 
 again until all the zeste is done, then dry 
 die sugar perfectly, crush and sift it. 
 
 Break your eggs one by one, (takin'* care 
 that all are perfectly fresh ;) put the yolks 
 and whites into separate vessels; mix half 
 your sugar with the former, stirring it in 
 with a spatula until perfectly smooth, then 
 add the remainder, and work it well for 
 twenty minutes. Whip the whites till quite 
 firm, pulling in a small quantity of pounded 
 alum; when sufficiently whipped, which 
 may be known by little points rising when 
 the whisk is taken out; mix a little wilh 
 the yolks; still, however, keeping the whites 
 stirring; then pour the yolks on them very 
 gently mixing them together as you pour, 
 with the whisk: sift over the whole a pound 
 of potatoe-flour, stirring the mixture all the 
 time; when ready to put into the mould, 
 your paste should be very smooth, and some- 
 what of the consistence of treacle. Butter 
 Ule mould, and put in a few spoonfuls of 
 your paste at first, to prevent any globules 
 of air appearing on the top when baked; 
 pour in the remainder carefully. Cover a 
 baking-plate with hot ashes, lay the mould 
 in the midst of them, and place it in a mod- 
 erate oven ; keep it open for an hour, that 
 the biscuit mav be watched, and if it takes 
 color too quickly, cover it with paper. In 
 diree hours time take il from the oven, and 
 if it be of a good color, uml linn, turn it on 
 a baking-tin, tie round it a band of double 
 paper, and replace it in the oven for a quar- 
 ter of an hour to dry. 
 
 IBID, WITH ALMONDS. The in- 
 gredients for this biscuit are the same as 
 above, with the addition of four eggs, and 
 half a pound of bitter almonds: blanch the 
 almonds, then wash, drain, and dry them in 
 a napkin; pound them with whites of eggs 
 in the usual way, to a fine paste, pass it 
 through a sieve, and then mix it with the 
 additional eggs; add this to die sugar and 
 yolks, and proceed as above. 
 
 BISCUITS, SPICE. Take three 
 pounds of flour, three pounds of almonds, cut 
 in half, three ounces of cinnamon anil mace 
 pounded, and one pound of powder-sugar ; 
 mix them all together on your slab; lx>il 
 three pounds of Lislion sugar with some wa- 
 ter; make the above ingredients into a paste 
 with this, and roll it to the size of a large 
 rolling-pin ; lay it on a sheet of paper, flat 
 it down a little wilh your hand, keeping it 
 
 higher in the middle than at the ends; put 
 it into a very hot oven ; when done, take it 
 out, and while hot, cut it across, in slices an 
 eighth of an inch thick, and dry them. 
 
 BISCUITS, FINE SPONGE. Break 
 
 twelve eggs, separate the yolks and whites; 
 to the former put three quarters of a pound 
 of powder-sugar, stir them well u itli a wood- 
 en spoon, till it rises in large bladders; 
 whisk the whites to a very firm froth, and 
 then mix them very lightly with the yolks 
 and sugar, and when incorporated, add ten 
 ounces of fine dried and sifted flour. Stir 
 them all together well, and pour the mix- 
 ture into well-buttered tin moulds, sift sugar 
 over, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 Take them from the tins while hot. 
 
 BISCUITS, SPOON. Break four eggs, 
 put the yolks and whites into separate 
 basins; add to the former a quarter of a 
 pound of powder-sugar; having grated on 
 it the zeste of a lemon, mix these together 
 well with a spatula for ten minutes; then 
 whip the whites to a froth, and put about 
 half of them to the yolks, and when that is 
 well mixed in, add the rest; stir it very 
 lightly, and lay them with a spoon on paper, 
 make them about three inches long, and the 
 breadth of a finger. Glaze them with pow- 
 der-sugar, and place them on baking tins, 
 add, as the sugar dissolves, and they .-hine, 
 put the biscuits into a moderate oven, which 
 must be kept open for seven or eight minutes 
 then close it until your biscuits are of a pro- 
 per color. When col), detach lliem from 
 the paper with a thin knife-blade, and lay 
 them by, in couples, the glazed sides out- 
 wards, till wanted 
 
 BISCUITS, SWEET. Take half a 
 pound of fine pounded sn^ar, and sift it 
 through a tammy. Put the whites of twelve 
 eggs into a preserving-pan, and the yolks 
 into an earthenware tureen ; whip the whites 
 In a snow, and then carefully pour on it the 
 yolks and sugar; stir them gently; place 
 your pan over a chafing-dish; continue 
 whipping the whole for a full half hour, and 
 then, if the drop which falls from the whisk 
 lays a little while without spreading, take it 
 from the fire, and whisk again till it is cold; 
 then add half a pound of tine sifted flour, stir 
 it in gently with a wooden sp ion. Drop 
 them on paper, sift sugar OM-I-, and bake 
 them in a warm oven until of a deep yellow; 
 take them from the papers while warm; 
 bake them as soon as possible after they are 
 dropt on paper. 
 
 BISCUITS, SWEETMEAT. Cut 
 
 softie Naples biscuits into pieces about an 
 inch thick, and an inch and a half square,
 
 BLA 
 
 265 
 
 BOU 
 
 and just crisp them in tlte oven. Make some 
 icing with whites of egg*, sugar, and orange- 
 flower water; dip one side of the biscuit 
 into it; cut some preserved lemon and 
 orange-|>eel and angelica into small pieces; 
 strew tlicm over the biscuits, and dry the 
 icing in the mm. 
 
 BISCUITS, TOAD - IN - A - HOLE. 
 
 iiinil of sweet, and an ounce and a 
 half ul' bitter almonds to a line smooth paste, 
 iiioi-ti .1 with water, and mix tin- pa.-te, 
 winch .-h.niM not I"' IIHI tliin, w iili a pound 
 and a ((nailer of while .-UL'.N . l>ay a .-hn-t 
 of wi iling-|w;>i.'i cm your baking-plate, and 
 
 wafer-paper, on thai; lay the bucuiu about 
 
 tin- si/.e ul" a hall-crow n piece; put a dried 
 cherry in the middle of each; silt sugarover 
 and liake (hem in a moderatu.oveii. When 
 done, cut (lie water-paper round, but do not 
 lake it away. 
 
 IU.ACKiir.ltKV WINE. Put full ripe 
 
 bl.icklx-irir.- inio a large ve.-.-el w itli a cock 
 in it, |. in nn as iin.i h liniiing water as 
 will cover tiiern, anil as so,,n as the heat 
 will permit, liim-e llleiii well with tin- hand 
 till all llit- Ix-uii-aie bicken; cover them, 
 and in almnl three or lour dav -, w liru tin- l,.-i - 
 in llie tup, di aw i., l' [he clear part 
 nidi another Vi --i-l: add tu ru-i v trn ijnai Is 
 of the liijimr one |KHIIII| of sugar, stir it well 
 in, anil lei it stand a wet-k or ten days to 
 wuiK. l)iaw il ollihniiigli ajclly-bag. Sleep 
 four oiiures of isinglass ill a pint of sweet 
 wine !>>i twelve li..nrs, then Ixiil it .-l.iwK 
 till dissolved, put it in a gallon of ihcUuck- 
 Ixny juice, Imil tliem li-^i-ilier and (hen 
 put a" gcdicr; let it stand a few dav>, and 
 bottle. 
 
 I ;i. \\r-M \M:E, DUTCH. Put a 
 
 pint of cleared calf's-loot jelly into a slew- 
 pau ; mix vvilh it the yolks of six i-j 
 it over a file, and whisk till it Ijegins to 
 bull; (hen set tile (Kill in cold w aid, and .-(il 
 tlie mixiiiie till nearly cold, to prevent it 
 fiom cumin-'.', and when it begins to thicken 
 fill (lie mould-. 
 
 r.I.AMVM \N<;K, rKF.NCH. Blanch 
 one pound 1. 1 Mvi-et, and a score of bitter 
 almond-: ihain I|M-III on a sieve, and aflei - 
 wards dry them, \,\ nibbing them in a nap- 
 kin: pound tin-in in a mortar, continually 
 moiMciiini; them w ilh half a tea-spoonful of 
 w.iti-r al a time, to pi event their oiling. 
 When they are |x.innied a.- Inn- a- |>o.-.-iUi-, 
 take tin in out of (he moilat . and put them 
 into a |Kin; then with a silver S|XK>II, beat 
 tip yiiir .d:ir mi!- graduallv, willi live glasses 
 of tillered wain: after lln>, >picad a napkin 
 over an oval iii-li. and put your almonds 
 ujx)ii it; then gallier up the coiners of your 
 23 
 
 napkin, and wring it very tight, to press out 
 all the milk from the almonds; then put 
 into this milk, twelve ounces of crystallized 
 sugar, broken into small pieces; when the 
 sugar is dissolved, pass the whole through a 
 napkin; and then add to it one ounce of 
 clarified isinglass*, rather warmer than luke- 
 warm; and when the whole is well incorpo- 
 rated together, pour il into your mould. 
 Vour mould .-honld be previously put into 
 ten |X)unds of pounded ice ; w hen your blanc- 
 mange is ready to serve, (which will be in 
 two hours after it has been put into the 
 mould,) you must take it out of the mould 
 according to the rule prescribed in Violet 
 Jelly. 
 
 BLANC-MAN(!E WITH FRUIT. 
 
 Boil an ounce and a half of isin^lar-s, and 
 when (|iiite dissolved, strain it. Let it cool 
 for half an hour, skim, and pour it lice from 
 sediment into another pan ; then whii-kvvith 
 it a table-spoonful of cedr.it, and half a 
 imiind of currant jelly, straw Ixrty, or rasp- 
 iienvjani; and when it begins to jelly, fill 
 (lie moulds. 
 
 I'-I. \\r-M VN(JE, WITHOUT EITHER 
 
 ISINGLASS OR ICING. Prepare your 
 
 almonds in the same manner as in ihc re- 
 ceipt for BlMO-tMflge d la Francaise, but 
 only using hall die quantity s;x'cilied in that 
 receipt, and I ike wist: leaving out (he isinglan. 
 Tin n i nt into a pan the whiles of four eggs, 
 , and whip them till (hey Lc^iu to whiten, 
 then add your Mane-mange, and place your 
 pan over hot ashes, and continue to whip 
 your preparation until the egg is thoroughly 
 iiiiM-.l with the almonds, and the whole be- 
 gins to nun to a thick cieam; and when it 
 is of a pr, >(,<; ci ,-i-ieiiee, pour into little 
 cups, and serve it either hot or cold. 
 
 \\heu yon wi>h to serve this entremet 
 in little cups, and of any flavor you pleaae, 
 you HUM only make use of two-thirds of the 
 (jiiaiiiity of almonds, named in tin- receipt 
 for Blanc-mange French. 
 
 BOUCHEES DE DAMES. Mix with 
 six eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 three ounces of potato-flour, a little rah, 
 and a pinch of dried orange-flowers : heat 
 them together well, and having buttered a 
 tin, lay your | a.-ie on it, and Lake it in a 
 gentle oven tin a quarter of an hour; when 
 done, cut it in pieces, about the -i/e of a 
 ciown pn-ue. and glaze ilieui, mask them 
 i ding to your pleasure, and dry them 
 in the oven. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, GLACEE8. 
 Roll some pnlf paste to about llie eighth of 
 an inch in lhickiie>s, and will) a plain round 
 |.-i.-ie-eiitiiT, of two inches diametei , cut out
 
 BOU 
 
 266 
 
 BUT 
 
 as many cakes as you mny retire ; then 
 with a smaller cutter, take out the middle 
 of half the number, so as to make rings of 
 them; moisten the edges of tlie former, and 
 lay the rings on them; wet them also as 
 you lay them down, cpi inkle them lightly 
 with po'.vdur sugar, ami liuke them in a 
 liriik <r.eii. These bouchees require great 
 attention in baking, as the sugar is apt to 
 dissolve and color too quickly ; when done, 
 they should be of a reddish tinge. Fill 
 them with swealmeats, | -reserves, or whip- 
 ped cream, according to fancy. 
 
 BOUCHEES DE MONSIEUR. Pound 
 a stick of vanilla with two ounces of pow- 
 der-sugar, and then sifl it; mix with it 
 seven additional ounces of dry powder-su- 
 gar, and half a pound of sifted (lour; add to 
 this the whites of four eggs, whip|>ed firm, 
 and work them together till the paste is 
 very smooth and soft. Heat two copper- 
 plates, rub them over with wax, and then 
 wipe them; when cold, lay the pr.ste with 
 a knife, in pieces about the siz.e of a fill>ert, 
 shaded tjuite round, leave three-quarters of 
 an inch spare between each ; \\ hen the 
 plates are full, put them on stool.-- in an oven, 
 so that they can receive no heat from below, 
 then put a stove with hot coals on the top 
 of the oven, and let them remain in this 
 state for twenty-lour hours; then put them 
 for fifteen or twenty minutes into a mode- 
 rate oven. Take them from the plates 
 whilst hut, and as soon as cold, finish them 
 in the same way as bouchees de dames; 
 glaze them with chocolate, a la rose, with 
 pistachios, orange, cedrat, he. &o. They 
 may also be masked with sugar, pistachios, 
 currants, &c. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, MERIN- 
 GUES AUX PISTACHES. Make them 
 the same as above, strew sugar over with- 
 out wetting the rings, and bake them to a 
 light color in a moderate oven. Then mix 
 a quarter of a pound of pnwder-flBgJur with 
 three whites of eggs, well whipped, an, I 
 mask the bouchees lightly with it, and 
 glaze them with sugar; having ready a 
 quarter of a pound of pistachio-nuts blanch- 
 ed, and each cut across sloping; place these 
 pieces round the edge of the bouchees like 
 a crown; and each piece of the pistachios 
 being placed on ilia cut side, they stand out 
 from the edge of the bouchee: this process 
 being finished, put them in tlie oven again a 
 few minutes, to color the egg; and in the 
 meantime stir up the white of egg which 
 remains, and make with it half as many 
 meringuees as you have bouchf.es, sprin- 
 kle them witlt sugar, and r..lor lx>:li sides 
 of them in a slow oven ; ami when the frou- 
 chees are ready for table, fill the-u with 
 
 whipped cream, with pistachios, and cover 
 each with half a meringue. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, PERLEES. 
 
 Your bouchees being made and baked as 
 above, whip the whites of two egu> to a 
 firm froth, and mix theai with four >pi>.m- 
 fuls of sifted sugar, and when very smooth, 
 mask your bouchees with it: then take 
 son'e white of egg, and with the point of a 
 knife, drop them in pearls about the si/- of 
 a grape-stone, round each bouchee, half an 
 inch apart, sprinkle them lightly with sugar, 
 and dry tlie egg in the oven, taking cate 
 they do not lose their whiteness. 
 
 When cold, place between each pearl a 
 smViler one of red-currant jelly. Fill your 
 bouchees with apricot marmalade, apple- 
 jelly, &c. ; if, however, the jelly, or what- 
 ever else yon may use, lie of a red color, 
 your intermediate pearls should I* composed 
 of light-colored preserve, such us apricot 
 marmalade, &c. The.*e sliMild be pcailed 
 a few at a time only. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, PI1AU- 
 NEES. Having prepared the bouchefsas 
 usual, dorez and bake them in a mo;Vrae 
 oven ; when they are of the proper color, 
 ma.-k them with whites of eggs mixed wi;j 
 sugar, and almonds minced very small; re- 
 pl;:ee them in the oven a minute or two, 
 and then strew red, or any other colored 
 sugar on them, but not #o thick as to cover 
 the a!:i::;n ,'s entirely. Fill the bouchees 
 as usual. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, A LA 
 
 RHINF.. The same as a''ove, only the 
 paste must U> cat thicker, and Ittfore you 
 
 : dorez, I-U them stand a few minutes. Bake 
 
 I in a brisk oven. 
 
 BUCKTHORN, SIRUP OF. (1) Gath- 
 er the berries in tlie heat of the day, and set 
 in an earthen vessel in the oven ; squeeze out 
 the juice, and for each peek of Ivrries put 
 two pounds of white sugar, and lx>il them 
 together a quarter of an hour ; let it cool, 
 and then bottle it. 
 
 BUCKTHORN, SIRUP OF. (2) Take 
 
 three quarts of the juice of clarified buck- 
 thorn berries, and four pounds of brown 
 sugar; make them into a sirup over 
 fire, and while warm, mix with it a diachm 
 of tlie distilled oil of cloves, dissolved on a 
 lump of sugar. The trite buckthorn may be 
 known by the number of its scds, having 
 f.iur, the "alder buckthorn lias only two, and 
 list; cherry hirklhorn one seed. The for- 
 mer is to bu used. 
 
 BUTTER, BLACK. Three pounds of
 
 CAN 
 
 267 
 
 CAP 
 
 fruit, currant?, gooseberries, raspberries, 
 and cherries, to a pound of coarse sugar, 
 txii!d till quite thick. It must waste to 
 half die quantity. 
 
 c. 
 
 CAKES MADE OF FLOWERS. R-il 
 double refined sugar to a candy height, anrt 
 strew in your flower.- and let ll-eiii 1.. il 
 : th"-i. wi'h your hand, lightly 
 strrxv in a little double refi r-d sirj.ir pifted, 
 and |it it directly into little pans 
 rani, and pricked full of holes at the hot- 
 torn; \oo iiiu*t set the pans on a cushion, 
 and \\hen they are cold, take, them out. 
 
 VCOMR. V.,n\ yonr 
 .1 ran Iv height; tlirn put in your 
 . liii-h iiiu.-t lie rut; haxe little pa- 
 h four corners ready; d:<" 
 ( y on l!:e |>apers, take them off 
 id if they ar>> rightly done, 
 they XV ill loi.k lull of"!. 
 
 CAKES, I I'-muiCE. T ; ,k- hy----o,, 
 and red ro-e u:it.-r, of each half a pi-it, half 
 a pound oi't-i.ii- 
 
 >vth a |<c--r!e; 
 put to il half a pound i.f an 
 it all night in the water; Ixiil it with a 
 penile I'm- till ill.- t.i.-te is well out of the 
 
 MI it, |)iit to if (h. 
 
 nf liquorice pov it on a tieu'le 
 
 tire till it i- rom- to the thi- ' 
 take it oft', and put to it Irilf a pound of 
 whit-- sti-ru- randy >c-ied very fi-ie ; U-:it 
 this well together for at lea-t lhre<- II-MI;---. 
 and 'lever yiif>i r it to stand s|i!> 
 Ix-at il, you inii-t strew in double-refined 
 
 re I, at lea-t three pounds ; 
 halt an hour Ik-fore it is finished, put in half 
 a tponnfid of gum di 1 in or- 
 
 i'er: when it is verv white 
 then i' i j r !l it tip with while 
 
 sujir; and if you want it perfumed, put in 
 a past i i or l\vo. 
 
 r\\!\ \\<,. I'rnit intended for can- 
 
 dying iuii>( Ix; fii.-t preM-xi-d, and dii<rd in 
 
 'lie tire, that none of the sii- 
 
 up in.iy temain in it. Sn^ar intended for 
 
 'I ' iMindy in'4 uiih-t Ix- thus prep-ire>l : 
 
 put into a togsing-pan a pound of sugar, 
 
 with half . i pint of wali-r, and -i-t it oxer a 
 
 verv rlear tire. Take oM the scum aa it 
 
 rises; *Miil it (ill it look- rl.-ar and line, and 
 
 take out a little in a silxer Hpoon. \\ hen 
 
 it is -o|,|, if it xxill iltaxv a threail from 
 
 xour s|H..n. it i- '^..ili-.l tMioii-.-li for any Km. I 
 
 i iH.il \.-.r .-iiuii, and 
 
 wlli-n il Ix-^in- to ranilx r ...... i tr 
 
 your pan, it is candy height. It is a great 
 mistake to put any kind of sweetmeat into 
 too thirk a simp, especially at the first, a* 
 it wi'hers the fruit, and both the beauty and 
 flavor are thereby destroyed. 
 
 CANDY FLOWERS. Take the 
 best treble-refined sugar, break it into 
 lunijic, and dip it piece by piece into water ; 
 put them into a vessel if silxer, and melt 
 them oxer the fire; when it just boilf, 
 strain k, and s-'t it on the fire again, and 
 IH it lr>il till il draws in hairs, which you 
 may perceive bv holding up your spoon; 
 then put in the I'.oxvers, and set them in cups 
 \Vk-n it is of a hard candy, 
 break it in lumps, and lay it as high as you 
 Dry it in a stove, or in the sun, 
 and it will look like sugar-candy. 
 
 CAMlY, ALL SORTS OF I 
 When !'.ni.-hed in the sirup, put a layer into 
 
 "re, aad dip it suddenly into hot 
 x\at-i, 'o take oflf the sirup that ha 'igs about 
 it ; pin it on a napkin lforc live fire to 
 drain, and then do some more on the sieve. 
 'n!v-!-ifted donble-n-fni' d ugn-, 
 xxhirh silt oxer the fruit on al! sides, till 
 <|iiite while. Set it on the shallow end of 
 
 - in a lightly-wano oven, and turn 
 ii txvo or tlm-o times. It must not be cold 
 till dry. Watch it carefully, and it xvill be 
 beautiful. 
 
 CANF.LI.O.NS. Make a FtifT paste, 
 with a little melted Ixilter, a spoonful or 
 
 txvo ,i f xxat.-, some rasped lemon-peel, an 
 eg, a quarter of a pound <-f flmir, and half 
 that quantity of siiyir ; roil it very thin; 
 make a little cane of raid-paper, butter it 
 well on the outside, and wrap it in some of 
 the paste; bake it a few minutes; take ont 
 t lie ran!, and fill the paste xvith currant jel- 
 ly, or any '.-'her jelly or sweetmeat you 
 
 <\\M. I. I.ONS MERINGUES. Whip 
 the whites of two ei{';<, and haxing mixed 
 diem xvith txvo s|>ooi!fiils of powrier-eugar, 
 then mask tlie cannellons; when baked, 
 cni-h a quarter of a jxtund of fine sugar, 
 and roll the canm-llons in it; repl.i- 
 a lexv mini'tr" in the oven, and then finish. 
 The masking of the.-*: rannelloiis may be 
 
 rwied according to t is'e, xxith pistariiion, 
 
 drie<l currants, &e. tlie fonner cut in pieces, 
 
 i the taller xxc II xxaslied, dried and mixed 
 
 xs ith an ("jii.il (j laiihtx of sugar. 
 
 CM'II.LAII.-F.. SIRUP OF. The 
 
 ; ra| ill in > <>l < a'laila, altlio'igh ih.il of .Moiit- 
 
 i peiirr is e<|i ally sfixl, is a verx oilorifij- 
 
 vgptalile, ligl't and agreeable, but co 
 
 I exireiueix volaiile, that the gveairst part of
 
 CAR 
 
 268 
 
 CAR 
 
 it is dissipated during the preparation of 
 the sirup. To preserve then the odour of 
 the capillaire, when your sirup is sufficient- 
 ly done, pour it, whilst boiling, upon some 
 fresh capillaire coarsely chopped up; then 
 cover your vessel, and let it stand until it 
 is quite cold, then pass it through a bolting- 
 cloth to separate it from the leaves of tlie 
 capillaire. 
 
 Take one ounce of the capillaire from 
 Canada; put it into a glazed pan, pour upon 
 it four pints of boiling water, leave it to in- 
 fuse for twelve hours over some warm ashes ; 
 strain it and let it run into a vessel, it will 
 give you a strong tincture of cupillaire; 
 melt in this tincture four pounds of sugar, 
 put the whole into a preserving-pan, and 
 put it on the fire, and clarify it with the 
 white of an egg, continue the cooking ; when 
 your sirup is perle, put some fresh capil- 
 laire, chopped, into a pan, and pour your 
 sirup, whilst boiling, upon it; cover your 
 pan carefully, and let it cool; when your 
 sirup is cold, you may flavor it if you please. 
 Put it into bottles, and cork them hermeti- 
 cally. 
 
 CAPILLAIRE, SIRUP OF. (2) Take 
 some good capillaire, chop it up, not very 
 small, put it upon a sieve; pour upon it 
 some boiling water, and then let it infuse 
 for ten hours in a vessel well covered ; strain 
 this infusion, and put into it some sugar 
 boiled tt casse; clarify this sirup with the 
 whites of eggs whipped; skim it till it is 
 very clear ; when it rises, take it off the 
 fire, and leave it to cool, then put it into 
 bottles. 
 
 Viard and Beauvilliers, whose receipts 
 are nearly the same, boil their capillaire for 
 a quarter of an hour in river- water; after 
 having passed this boiling through a sieve, 
 they put int6 it some powder-sugar, and 
 clarify their sirup with water, or a whole 
 egg beaten up; then skim it, and when it is 
 very clear and has boiled an lisse, they 
 take it off the fire, and put into it some 
 orange-flower water, and strain it through 
 a napkin or straining-bag, leaving it to 
 cool before putting it into bottles. 
 
 For three pints and a half of sirup, you 
 must use two good ounces of capillaire, four 
 pints of water, and four pounds of sugar, 
 powder-sugar is the best, as it prevents sir- 
 ups from candying. 
 
 CARAMEL. Break into a small copper 
 or brass pan one pound of refined sugar ; 
 put in a gill of spring-water ; set it on a 
 fire; when it boils skim it quite clean, and 
 let it boil quick, till it comes to the degree 
 called crack; which may be known by dip- 
 ping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar, 
 and letting it drop to the bottom of a pan 
 
 of cold water; and if it remains hard, it has 
 attained that degree : squeeze in the juice 
 of half a lemon, and let it remain one min- 
 ute longer on the fire; then set the pan into 
 another of cold water : have ready moulds 
 of any shape; rub them over with sweet 
 oil ; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and 
 throw it over the mould in fine threads, till 
 it is quite covered: make a small handle of 
 caramel, or stick on two or three small gum 
 paste rings, by way of ornament, and place 
 it over small pastry of any description. 
 
 CARAMEL CONSERVE. Clarify the 
 quantity of sugar you may require, and boil 
 f. to caramel; have ready some cases of 
 double paper; pour in your sugar to the 
 thickness of half an inch, and trace on its 
 surface the forms you wish it to have ; when 
 cold, break it according to those marks. 
 This conserve may be colored and flavored 
 according to the fancy. 
 
 CARAMEL COVER FOR SWEET- 
 MEATS. DissoUe eight ounces of double- 
 refined sugar in three or four spoonfuls of 
 water, and three or four drops of lemon- 
 juice; then put it into a copper untinned 
 skillet; when it boils to be thick, dip the 
 handle of a spoon in it, and put that into a 
 pint basin of water, squeeze the sugar from 
 the spoon into it, and so on till you have all 
 the sugar. Take a bit out of the water, 
 and if it snaps and is brittle when cold, it is 
 done enough ; but only let it be three parts 
 cold, then pour the water from the sugar, 
 and having a copper mould oiled well, run 
 the sugar on it, in the manner of a maze, 
 and when cold you may put it on the dish it 
 is to cover ; but if, on trial, the sugar is not 
 brittle, pour off the water, and return it in- 
 to the skillet, and boil it again. It should 
 look thick like treacle, but of a bright light 
 gold color. It makes a most elegant cover. 
 
 CARDAMUM COMFITS. Procure 
 your cardamums at the chemists, and they 
 will be in a shell; put them into the oven to 
 dry the skins, and they will break; pick all 
 the seeds from them, put the seeds into a 
 large' comfit-pan, and have a fire under the 
 same as for others; mix your gum, starch, 
 and sirup, and finish them the same as cara- 
 way comfits. 
 
 CARAWAY CAKE. Dry a quarter 
 of a peck of fine flour in an oven; rub a 
 pound and a half of fresh butter in it, till it 
 is crumbled so small that none of it is to be 
 seen ; then take six spoonfuls of rose water, 
 half a pint of canary, half a pint of cream, 
 and three-quarters of a pint of new ale yeast, 
 an I hi' whites of two, and yolks of four 
 eggs; mix all these well together, let it lie
 
 CAS 
 
 269 
 
 CHA 
 
 before the firp, and when vmi make it up 
 jHit in a pound ami a half of Naples hisruits, 
 and three-quarters of a pnuiui of rani way - 
 comfit.-. Hake it. 
 
 CARAWAY COMFITS. Take some 
 fine caraway w-ds, sift all the dust frnm 
 thf.'in, and have a large copper picseruu:;- 
 |uu. .dionf two feet wide, and with two 
 luri'ilcs a 'id two pieces c.l iron made as a 
 ring on cadi side; llien you must have a 
 
 {Millev fixed lo ill- beam, and a cord with a 
 U'<,k to e.e h end, so as to !i\ it :ii i-arli 
 side of the pan to let it slinij; then have 
 some line .-tairh as white as \oii can i;ii. 
 and jii.-t soften it, l>"il some MI up a (frailer 
 of an h.iur, and mix i; will ill'- March; 
 t.ike some gum arable, put it into some 
 wal'-r, then put that into another | an, and 
 make ii jn-l \\.i.m; have an iron-jxit with 
 charcoal (ire under the large pan, Imt not 
 too hot, only jn-t to keep the pan warm ; 
 have a large till) to put your pot of lire at 
 bottNDi and your laie pan nin.-t lie on the 
 top; put the rariwav seeds into your pan ; 
 add a lart;e ladleful of jjuin arable, nil) them 
 will) your hands until you lind they are all 
 dry, then put a ladlcful of starch ami .-imp. 
 Mild do the .-ame ovei your |MII of lire, until 
 yon find they are all diy; put lh<- uniii onlv 
 three or four limes to them at first, ilien the 
 March and sugar, lull lx.il your sirup more 
 its \oii tin I they come to coal with it, and 
 not so much starch ; u hen you hav dried 
 them .-e\en nr i-iyhl times, put ihem into 
 your sieve; (int them into the slo\e, do 
 them the next day , and M>, successively, for 
 six or seven days. 
 
 CARANN \Y DK\:KKS. Takenny 
 quantity ol c ,ia\\.i\ see I- \mi think pioper, 
 put them into a preset \ in^-p.m, and when 
 (mite w. u 111, put iii clarified sugar, a little 
 at a time, sin 11114 it occasionally, nil of the 
 M/e you wish; then piocivd as diierted for 
 Almond Dragee*. 
 
 CASSI \ CAMMED. Pound a little 
 imi.-k and ami* i :;i i.- with an iuuc.li of the 
 powder of . I--M a.- uill lie on two ghil- 
 Mg*. 11 n in 1 ,' jKiini-le i them well togpfher, 
 take a (jii.u lei .,f a |H und of fine suy.ir, ami 
 as inn. h \\ali-r as \\ill uet it, und Uiil it lo 
 a candy Iwiylit, then put in your powder 
 and mix \\cll t< Aether. Butter gome pew- 
 ter saucer", and when it is cold turn it out. 
 
 CASSIA RATAFIA OF. Take a 
 pound of cassia, half a pound uf bitter 
 rheiiics. a ((iiarter of u pound of caaaia 
 Icau.-, and half a drachm of cinnamon; 
 l>riii.-i- tin two flint, cut up tile leaves, and 
 pound the cinnamon, infuse these ingredi- 
 tnta in lime '(iiaits cf brandy fur iliree 
 23* 
 
 weeks. Dissolve two pounds of sugar in a 
 quart of water, and mix with the liqueur, 
 and let it stand some time longer, then 
 strain and bottle it. Cork it up close. 
 
 CEDRATS, BLANCMANGE OF. 
 
 (irate the rind of a eel nit upon some sugar 
 in the u.-ual way, until six ounces of sugar 
 have been used ; blanch and pound a pound 
 of sweet almonds, moistening them with 
 water; when (x-rf'-ctly smooth, dilute them 
 with five Classes, of water put in by degrees; 
 then pour them in a napkin, and j-qncc/.ing 
 it, express the milk of almonds from them; 
 divide this into two equal |irls, with one 
 of which mix the six ounces of sugar with 
 the eedrat, and with the other portion, mix 
 the same quantity of plain sugar; as soon 
 as Ixith are dissolved, strain I hem, and put 
 in each half an ounce of isinglass: your 
 mould being place, I in ice, pour into it the 
 white blancmange to three-quarters of an 
 inch in depth; as corn as that is set, pour 
 in an equal quantity of the other, which 
 ought to be of a clear yellow ; when thai 
 also is set, pour in some white, and so on 
 alternately, till the mould is full. Turnout 
 the blancmange ae directed in Blancmange 
 French. 
 
 CEDRAT, CONSERVE OF. Grate 
 
 the rind of a eedrat all round, until the juice 
 is ready to oo/e out; this must l>e done by 
 inlying it against a huge piece of sugar, 
 (alxHit a |xumd;) remove the suifare of 
 this sugar, to which the grated rind auheres, 
 with a knife, an. I sqiu e/.e to it half (lie juice 
 of the cedr.it. l)i.-.-.,l\e tin- remainder of 
 the sugar to the degree grande plume, 
 then take it from the (lie. and when it has 
 stood a little while, put in your cedial, stir- 
 ring it with a spoon, until a sort of ice 
 forms on the lop; you may (hen pour your 
 i II-IIM- into moulds. Be careful not to 
 put it in too hot. 
 
 CEDRAT ZESTES, JELLY OF. 
 Take iluee-quarters of a pound of lump su- 
 gar, grate on it the zettt* of two cedrats, 
 anil, as the sugar becomes colored, scrape 
 it off with a knife, and gi ale again, and so 
 on until all the zesle is gone; dissolve the 
 .-craped sugar in two glasses of water, and, 
 with the juice of four lemons, pass it through 
 a jelly bag. Clarify the remainder of the 
 sugar, and then put a fourth of it into a 
 small preserving pan; boil it lo caramel 
 height, to color the jelly; mix this, the 
 fruit, the sirup, and an ounce of isinglass 
 together, and finish in the usual way. 
 
 CHANTILLY BASKET. Dip 
 
 i aiafi.i cake* into clarified sugar boiled to 
 
 I caramel height; place ihein round the in-
 
 CHE 
 
 270 
 
 CHE 
 
 side of a dish ; then cut more ratafia cakes 
 into squares, dip them also into sugar, and 
 pile them corner-ways on the row, and so 
 on for two or three stories high. Line the 
 inside with wafer-paper, and fill it with 
 sponge biscuit, sweetmeats, blan lied al- 
 monds, or some made cream; put trifle 
 over that, and garnish the fn>th witli rose- 
 leaves, colored comfits, or caramel sugar 
 thrown lightly over the top. 
 
 CHERRIES IN BRANDY. Choose 
 the finest and ripest cherries, leave on half 
 the stalks, and put them into very cold wa- 
 ter. In about lull' a:i hour take them out. 
 and drain them on a sieve; weigh them, 
 and to every pound of fruit, allow :t qiianer 
 of a pound of sugar; wh-'ii yo<: have clarified 
 and liuile.:! it to grand pi-.r'c, pat in the 
 fruit, boil them i:p two 01 three tiaies, siir- 
 ring them genllv wiih a >ki'n:;iei ; then take 
 them from the fire caieMlv, and put thft 
 cherries, into billies or glass jars; when 
 filled, a Id to each twelve cl ->ves and half an 
 ounce of cinnamon tied in a linen bag. I'm 
 to the sugar, when nearly col I, brandy (in 
 the proportion of a pint anil a half to a 
 pound of fruit); mix them together well, 
 and pour them on the cherries. In two 
 months time taste them, an I if siitli.-iently 
 fiavore I, take out the doves and cinnamon. 
 Cover the jars or bottled close. 
 
 CHERRIES, TO CANDY. The fruit 
 must be gathered litfore it is ripe; prick 
 and stone them; boil clarified sugar, and 
 pour it over them. 
 
 CHERRY ICE. Take the stones and 
 stall. s from two pounds of ripe cherries, 
 Lrui.-e, and s:'( them on the fire with a litlle 
 wat : , and half a pound of sugar. When 
 they have boiler), pass tlicm through a hair 
 sieve into an earthen pan. Pound a handful 
 of the kernels, put them in a basin with the 
 juice '( uvo lemons. Add to the cherries a 
 pound of sugar au petit lisse, aad strain on 
 them the lemon-juice and kernels; mix the 
 whole together, and put it in a saboiiere, 
 with pounded ice. Work the cherries up 
 with it well, until it has set, then place it in 
 
 CHERRY ICE CREAM. Take half a 
 pound of preserved cherries, pound them, 
 stones and all; put them into a basin, with 
 one gill of sirup, the juice of a lemon, and a 
 pint of cream, pass it through a sieve, and 
 freeze it according to custom. 
 
 CHERRY MARMALADE. Choose 
 the ri|iest, largest, best red colored cherries, 
 you can meet with, and take of them double 
 the weight of the sugar you intend to use ; 
 
 stone and tail ; and then put them on a 
 gentle fire, and keep stirring them till re- 
 duced to half. Clarify and lx.il your sugar 
 to petit canst, then add the fruit to it, and 
 stir 'it until you casi see the bottom of the 
 pan ; the marmalade is then sufficiently done, 
 an I may be put into pots. 
 
 CHERRY MARCHPANE. Take three 
 pounds of sweet almonds, two and a h'alf 
 of sugar, and a pound of cherries ; pound 
 the almonds to a paste, and mix it with the 
 sugar, boiled to petit boule; then hating 
 stoned, well bruised, and squeezed out tlie 
 juice of the cherries, add it to the rest, stir 
 it well, place it on hot ashes, stirring con- 
 stantly until the paste is properly done; 
 then finish it in the usual way, (See 
 MARCHPANK.) StiawU-rries, raspber- 
 ries, currants, or any other fruit may be 
 useJ in the same way. 
 
 CHERRY RATAFIA. Crush ten 
 pounds of cherries, and put them into ajar 
 with a quart of brandy ; cover the jar close, 
 and infuse the cherries for five or six days; 
 at the end of that time put the fruit into a 
 cloth, and press the juice out through. Boil 
 five pounds office currants, with three pounds 
 of sugar, and press out the juice as you did 
 that of the cherries; mix the two juices, 
 measure them, an 1 Tir every pint allow a 
 pint ofbrandy. Add a (mini 1 of the kernels 
 of the cherry-stones, half a pound of corian- 
 der, a litlle mace, some cloxes and cinna- 
 iiinn, all well pounded, put them into a jar, 
 and pour the liquor over tliem ; cover it 
 close and let it infuse for six weeks, after 
 which, pass the whole through a jelly-bag, 
 and bottle it ; cork it carefully. 
 
 CHERRIES, SIRUP OF. The l>est 
 cherries f<r this purpose are the black sour 
 ones; take out the stones and express the 
 juice into an earthen pan, where it must 
 stand in a cool place for twenty-four hours 
 to clear: at the end of that time pour the 
 juice gently into a pan, and add to it, for 
 each pound of juice, two pounds of crushed 
 sugar, ami two drachms of cinnamon, pre- 
 viously infused in a glass of water, wrap the 
 cinnamon in a piece of linen, and put it with 
 the water into your pan; boil all together 
 for half an hour, skimming it carefully. 
 When sufficiently done take out the cinna- 
 mon; strain the sirup till quite clear, and 
 when cold bottle it. 
 
 CHESTNUTS IN CARAMEL. (1) 
 
 Roast chestnuts us for the table; take off 
 the skins ; dip each in the whiles of eggs 
 beaten, and then roll them in pMWfer-eu^arj 
 lay them separately on paper to dry, in a 
 moderate oven ; they may be cut into dif-
 
 CHE 
 
 271 
 
 CHO 
 
 ferent forms if you think proper, and glazed | boiled a little while, strain it, put it into 
 cither white or brow n. a dish, or glass fur table, and let it cool. 
 
 Clir.sTMTS IN CAR \MF.L. (2) 
 
 Cut some- o-ler rods or reeds into pieces 
 about two or three inches long, and on the 
 point of e.icli put a rousted and skinned 
 I'he-tnnt. Take a piece of cry fre.-h but- 
 UT, (nlxiut the si/.e of a nut), and nib it 
 with the palm of the hand, on an iion plate 
 or marble slab, taking fare to rub ciery 
 part well. Then haxiny ln.iled some clari- 
 ; to caramel height; take a piece 
 4>f the o.-ior, with a chestnut 0:1 the end. in 
 each hand, an 1 dip them in the sugar, txx isl- 
 
 rouud lepeatedly, that the sn,'ar 
 
 may adliere equally about the cher-lmil (ill 
 
 it ln-ij : n> to iMiil, then lay them on the but- 
 
 lb, an I dip in two more, procee:!- 
 
 ixe; w hen all are done and rold, 
 take oat the osier twigs, and wrap each 
 flu -mm in paper, with a d.-xiiv if xon 
 tilink proper. These diesluut> make a de- 
 licious sweetmeat, hut they sh-.ul J be eaten 
 die day <m which they are made. 
 
 cnr.-TMT COMl'OTE. (1) Take 
 llic <i'i: -r .-kin fioin alxmt a hundred 
 . and then put them into a sance- 
 pan xx illi xvalcr, a Inn m cut in pi 
 liirce ii in ll.il- of In an ; put them on the tire 
 and hla.ich tiiem: as .-1.011 as a pin will go 
 into them easily, they are sufficiently done; 
 nib off the second skin, and throw them 
 into col I water, with the juice of a leaion. 
 ClarilY and l>oil a |>ound an I a half of sugar 
 Li pi tit lisse, and haxing drained \oiir 
 rhcstnuis, put them into the sugar with die 
 juice 1. 1 a lemon, tin- qnai ter of a glass of 
 iwrr w.iler; put t!l'-se on die lire 
 f ir a .-Ii ii 1 lime, but nol to let theiii boil: 
 th'-n lake t!icai oil ;m I set them by. The 
 next day drain l!ie chc.-Miits, and boil up 
 tin- simp four limes ; then add more sug ir, 
 and having U>iled it to toufflr, put in the 
 chestnuts; lilanch them instantly aflei wards, 
 aii.l put t item into compolicrs. 
 
 CHESTNUT COMPOTE. (2) Roat 
 your < lir.-tn.ils us for the dessert, and 
 when th.-y are |-elnl and .-kimieil, put them 
 into a -.uii-ejMii, with a f|'i.irter of a pound 
 
 . and half a glass of water ; let 
 them Dimmer 1-n a i|ii.iiter t>{ an hour; 
 
 in a little lemon-juice, ;ind when 
 ready to serve, strew powder-sugar over 
 them. 
 
 ! \IT CREAM. (1) Pound 
 tweniy-liu- roasted chestnuts in a mortar, 
 with a bull- milk ; tln-n put the paste so made 
 
 i pan, with the y>lks of two egg*, 
 h.ilfa pint if milk, t wo ounces of butter, and 
 four ounces of jxmder-Biigar; wlien it has 
 
 CHESTNUT CREAM. (2) Roast, and 
 
 llicn pound a quarter of a hundred of chest- 
 nuts, with a small quantity of milk ; to this 
 add tlie yolks of two emjs, a pint of milk, 
 ii quarter of a pound of powder-mgar, and 
 .-ili.'iit an ounce of butter. Boil these to- 
 gether for some minutes, then strain it, and 
 set it by to cool. 
 
 CHESTNUT CUSTARD. Takethree 
 
 pi. mi Is of well roasted chestnuts, removing 
 KIK h parts as were colored by the fire, and 
 pound them with a pound of fresh butter; 
 when a smooth paste, add three-quarters of 
 a piiun.l of powder-sugar, the yolks of 
 twelve eggs, a pinch of salt, and a few 
 spoonful* of whipped cream, the whites 
 w hipped firm, ami finish the custard as di- 
 rected. 
 
 CHESTNUT PASTE. Make a mar- 
 malade by lioiling chestnuts in water, and 
 rubbing them through a sieve, then pound 
 them, and to three-quarters of a pound of 
 this, add a quarter of a pound of any other 
 fruit marmalade; mix them well up with an 
 equal weight of sugar boiled to grand 
 plume; put it into your moulds and bake it 
 as cherry, or any other paste. 
 
 CHINESE TEMPLE. Having boiled 
 an ounce of double-refined sugar, with half 
 an ounce of butter, and a little water, set it 
 by till cold, and then adil to it an egg well 
 l'i-:iii-ii. With thiii, make four ounces of 
 (lour into a very stilf paste ; roll it out aa 
 thin as possible, and lay it in a set of tins 
 the form of a temple, and bake them in a 
 K!OW oven. When cold, take the paste 
 from the tins, and join each piece together 
 according to the pro|x>r forms, with isin- 
 glass and water. The lower part, of 
 course, ought to be stronger than the top, 
 in order that it may sustain the weight of 
 the whole. Tlie pieces also must be cut 
 us exact as possible to the shape of the 
 tins. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ALMONDS. Take a 
 
 pi. mid of chocolate finely grated, and a 
 pound and a half of the ln-st augur, finely 
 lifted ; soak some gum-dragon in omnge- 
 llower water, and work them into what 
 form you please ; the paste must be stiff; 
 dry them in a Hove. Von may write de- 
 vices on paper, roli them up, and put them 
 in the middle. 
 
 CHOCOLATE BONBONS. Put a 
 
 quarter of a pound of chocolate over a fire, 
 to dissolve it; and having boiled two pound*
 
 CHO 
 
 272 
 
 CHO 
 
 of sugar to forte perle, put a spoonful or 
 two into the chocolate; stir it till it forms a 
 thin paste, and then pour it on the sugar, 
 and boil both together to caramel. In the 
 meantime melt a little butter, skim, and 
 pour it off clear into a basin ; take a spoon- 
 ful of it, and rub it with your hand over a 
 marble slab or table: on this pour the choco- 
 late and sugar ; then take two eivls of a 
 sword-blade, (one in each hand), and press 
 lines an inch apart all down it ; cross them 
 in like manner, so as to mark the sugar in 
 small squares all over ; doing it as quick as 
 possible, lest the sugar should cool before 
 you have done ; then pass the sword-blade 
 between the marble and the sugar ; lay un- 
 der the latter sheets of paper ; and when 
 cold, break it into pieces according to the 
 murks, and wrap each square in paper. 
 
 CHOCOLATE COMFITS. Take two 
 ounces of chocolate, beat it small with a* 
 little warm water over the fire; when it is 
 dissolved and reduced to a paste, pour it 
 upon a pound of masse pain or sweet 
 paste, to which add some cinnamon or va- 
 nilla at discretion ; mix the whole well to- 
 gether ; then spread it over some wafer 
 shapes, and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 If die paste does not apj>ear deep colored 
 enough, you may color it with bolus Ar- 
 menicum. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CONSERVE (1) Dis- 
 solve two ounces of good chocolate in a 
 little water, put it int . a skillet with half a 
 pound of sugar boiled to perle ; keep the 
 tiiigar stirring, and when it boils put the 
 conserve into moulds. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CONSERVE. (2) Dis- 
 solve a quarter of a pound of grated choco- 
 late in a small quantity of claritied sugar; 
 boil a pound of sugar to the premiere 
 plume, put your chocolate into it, stirring 
 
 \ ..'":. '. 
 
 it well to mix it; serve it whilst it is warm. 
 
 CHOCOLATE DROPS. Take one 
 pound ami a half of chocolate, put it on a 
 pewter sheet or plate, and put it in the 
 oven just to warm the chocolate ; then put 
 it into a copper stru pan, witli three- 
 quarters of a pound of powdered sugar ; 
 mix it well over the fire, take it off, and 
 roll it in pieces the size of s.uall m.irbles, 
 put them on white paper, an, I when they 
 are all on, take the slieet of paper by euch 
 corner, and lift it up and down so that the 
 paper may touch the table earh time, and 
 by that means you will see the drops come 
 quite fat, about the size of a sixpence ; put 
 some stig.tr nonpareils over them, and c.iv< r 
 all that are on the paper, lliL-n tli.ike them 
 off, and you will see all the chocolate droju 
 
 are covered with the sugar nonpareils; let 
 them stand till cold, and they will come off 
 well, and then put them in a box paj>ered. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. (IX 
 
 Take any quantity of chocolate, melt it over 
 the fire in a small pan; uheu melted pour 
 it into that in which you are to make your 
 cream; break your yolks of eggs into it, 
 (four eggs to every pint of cream) add some 
 pounded loaf sugar to it, keep stirring con- 
 tinually; then add your cream by little and 
 little, stirring and turning it till the whole 
 is mixed properly together; then set your 
 pan over the fire, and keep stirring with a 
 wooden spoon till you see your composition 
 is near boiling, then take it off immediate- 
 ly, for, from the moment you set your com- 
 position over the *ire 'ill that it offers to 
 boil, it has MiHicient time to incorporate 
 well and thicken sufficiently, without need 
 of boiling; and should you let it boil, you 
 would risk the turning your cream into 
 whey, on account of the yolks of eggs, which 
 would do too much. Take great care 
 likewise your cream is fresh and sweet, 
 for otherwise as soon as it is warm it will 
 turn to curds and whey; therefore, be care- 
 ful, stir it Continually, from the time you 
 set it on the fire till you take it off; then 
 put it in the sabotiere to make it congeal 
 after the usual manner. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. (2) 
 
 Dissolve the chocolate in a little water on 
 a slow fire; when properly done, mix it 
 with a pint of cream, three yolks of new 
 laid eggs, and about half a pound of sugar. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICE WATER. Take 
 three ounces of chocolate, warm it, and 
 mix with it half a gill of sirup, and half a 
 pint of water; mix it well, and freeze it 
 thick. 
 
 CHOCOLATE MACAROONS. Put 
 
 a quarter of a pound of chocolate on a tin- 
 plate over a coal fire, and when it is dis- 
 solved pour it on a plate; put to it a sjxx/n- 
 ful or two of sweet almond paste, m.ide as 
 for macaroons, stir it in well, and then pour 
 it upon the remainder of die alm.md paste, 
 in which you have mixed a tea-s|x>onful of 
 powdered cinnamon or v.mill.i, or both: 
 beat them together well in a mnrtar, lay 
 them on ptiper, and bake them for three- 
 quarters of an hour in a moderate men. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PARFAIT AMOUR. 
 For four bottles of brandy, take one pound 
 of the best chocolate, cut in small bits; a 
 little salt, two cloves, and a little cinna- 
 mon; you must infuse all in the brandy, with 
 two biitlles and half a pint of water, xvidi
 
 CIN 
 
 273 
 
 CIN 
 
 whites of eggs, and filler it through the pa- 
 per. You inn-i lie careful not to lake more 
 than two bottles from every four, except 
 from the cinnamon, from which \ou are to 
 take as much as \<>u can get. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PASTILS. Take a 
 little chocolate, which put in a pan over the 
 fire to melt it ; stir it with a spoon ; w hen 
 it is melted, take half a pound of loaf su- 
 gar, pounded in a mortar and silted, which 
 dissolve in a little clear water. When that 
 is done, put in \onr chocolate; if you find 
 the paste too thick, add a little water, 
 enough to bring it to that degree of liquidity 
 (ha! \ .ii may take it up on a knife; then 
 take half a sheet of pa|Mr, and cover it with 
 little round and flat drops, which we call 
 pastils, of the si/.e of a sixj>ence; let them 
 dry naturally in a cupljoard; and when dry, 
 take (hem oil' fiom the paper, and put them 
 in uo> 
 
 CHOCOLATE PASTIL PASTE. 
 Melt half an ounce of gum-dragon in a little 
 water till it is quite dissolved and thick ; 
 sift it through a linen cloth, jx.und it in a 
 mortar with a quarter-part of whites of 
 
 < hocolatc cake bruised, and half a 
 pound of fine jxiwder-siigar, mixed by de- 
 
 .1 adding either more or less sugar, 
 according a~ die paste is malleable; it must 
 be pretty firm; firm it into what flowers or 
 
 - .11 please, as shells, lozenges, any 
 kind of corn or hean., &c. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PETIT PAINS. These 
 
 are made ia the same way as 1'etits Pains 
 a la Duchtxse (see that article), but with- 
 out the dorure. When cold fill them with 
 a cream patissiere, mixed with two ounces 
 of vanilla chocolate, and sweetened with 
 sugar, flavored with vanilla; tlwn put three 
 ! sugar, the same of choco- 
 late, ami half tin- white of an egg into a 
 pan; stir these ingredients with a silver 
 spoon until you have a smooth transpaient 
 glaze, with which mask the top and sides 
 of the petit* pains, spreading it equally 
 with the blade, of a knife. 
 
 CHOCOLATE SWEETMEATS. 
 
 Take two ounces of chocolate, and break it 
 into a little warm water, put it on the fire, 
 mid when quite dissolved, mix it with a 
 |x inn. 1 of inarch|iane paste, to which may lie 
 added vanilla or cinnamon; stir it up well, 
 and then spread it on wafer-|Ki|irr in what 
 f.n:i- vou please, and bake them in a mod- 
 erate o\.-n. If (he :.we tmeats be not snlh- 
 ciently dark colored, add a little bnl-ammo- 
 niac. 
 
 CINNAMON CAKES. WbUk up 
 
 half a dozen eggs with three table-spoonfuls 
 of rose water; add to it a pound of sifted 
 sugar, a dessert-spoonful of powdered cinna- 
 mon, and a sufficient quantity of flour to 
 make it into a paste; roll it on* thin, and 
 cut it into whatever forms your fancy may 
 dictate, place (hem on paper, and bake 
 them. When done, remove them from the 
 pa|>er. Keep them dry. 
 
 CINNAMON' CANDIED. (1) Soak cin- 
 namon in water for four and twentv hours, 
 and then cut it into pieces alxmt an inch 
 long ; prepare some sugar to grand lissf, 
 und give the cinnamon a Ixiil in it; drain 
 and dry it in a stove to the pro|>er consis- 
 tence ; then put it in the moulds with sugar 
 Ixiiled to sovffli, and when half cold, dry 
 it. Before the candy is removed from the 
 moulds, they should In- laid on one side for 
 some time. Keep them in paper in a dry 
 
 CINNAMON CANDIED. (2) Cut 
 some cinnamon into small sticks of alxiut an 
 inch or an inch and a half long; then put 
 them into thin sugar, and boil ihem as it 
 were in a sirup. Then take ofT the pan, 
 and set it by for five or six hours to soak, 
 lake them out and lay them on a wire-grate, 
 dry them thoroughly in the stove; after- 
 wards |nit them in order in tin moulds 
 upon little grates made for the purpose, and 
 set into the moulds, so that there may be 
 three rows set one alxive another, se|>arated 
 by those grates. In the meantime, ln.il sii- 
 . .1 till it is blown, and pour it into your 
 mould, so that some of it may lie ii|xjn the 
 uppermost grate; then set them in the sine 
 with a covered fire, and let them stand all 
 night ; the next morning take notice whether 
 llie cinnamon IN; well coagulated; turn the 
 mould upside down, and set it in the stove 
 again, w iih a plate underneath; and when it 
 is thoroughly drained, take out your slicks 
 of cinnamon, loosening them, by little and 
 little, gently ; then lay them upon a sieve, 
 set in the stove, and dry them thoroughly. 
 
 CINNAMON, CONSERVE OF. 
 
 Bruise four drachms of cinnamon, dilute it 
 with a little clarified sugar, or sirup of mal- 
 lows; boil two pounds of sugar to pttit 
 castt, throw in the cinnamon, slir it well, 
 and tlien take it from the fire, and when the 
 sugar begins to whiten, pour tlie conserve 
 into cases or moulds, and dry it as usual. 
 
 'CINNAMON, DRAGEES OR SU- 
 GARED. Soak a quarter of a pound of 
 the best cinnamon in wicks, for twelve houra 
 in w atcr to soften it ; at the end of that lime, 
 cut it into slips, lay them on a sieve in a 
 warm place for some days. Wlien quite
 
 CIN 
 
 274 
 
 CIT 
 
 hard and dry, boil some fine sugar to the 
 degree grand perle; have ready a quantity 
 of fine powder, and proceed in the same 
 manner aa in doing Almond Dragees, 
 until the cinnamon sticks are of the proper 
 thickness; those which are to be twisted or 
 curled, shoul I not l>e so thick as the others. 
 Be equally particolar in removing the sugar, 
 that cakes on the bottom of the pan, as in 
 making Almond Dragees. 
 
 CINNAMON DRAGEES, COMMON. 
 Infuse a quarter of a pound of gum-dragon, 
 in a< i!i:ic:h water ;is will cover it; the next 
 day put the infusion into a mortar, and stir 
 it well with a pestle, and the longer it is 
 stirred the whiter it becomes; in rathor 
 more than a quarter of r.n hour, add to it 
 the caked si'gar which was remo\ed from 
 the preserving-pan, and which must be well 
 pounded and sifted, also a pound of powder- 
 sugar, :\ S[X>oHiil of cinnamon powder, and, 
 by degrees two or three pounds of flow; 
 OOKten the whole occasionally wild water; 
 when the paste is of a proper consistence, 
 place it on the slab or pasteboard, knead it 
 well for a short time, roll it out in sheets, 
 not thicker than the eighth of an inch, und 
 then cut it into slips of the same size as the 
 cinnamon (see above,) put them on paper 
 or a sieve in a warm place for some days. 
 Then buil some common sugar to perle, 
 nnd sugar the slips of paste as above direct- 
 ed; instead of the fine powder, flour is su!li- 
 cient, until the last two layers, when the 
 powder may be used to give them whiteness. 
 When of the requisite size, lay them on 
 sieves to dry. In a few days there may l>e 
 curled, and colored, which is done in the 
 same manner as coriander seeds. Observe, 
 fine sugared cinnamon i.j always white. 
 
 CINNAMON, ESSENCE OF. This 
 is mado by infusing oil of cinnamon in 
 highly rectified spirits of wine, in the pro- 
 portion of half a drachm of the former to an 
 ounce of the latter. 
 
 CINNAMON PASTILS. Dissolve 
 half an ounce of gum-dragon in a glass of 
 water, and strain it through a lawn sieve 
 into a mortar, and add to it a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered cinnamon, and a sufficient 
 quantity of sifted sugar to make the paste of 
 a proper consistence; form into such figures 
 as you may fancy, and dry them in a stove. 
 Keep them in a dry place. 
 
 CINNAMON SWEETMEATS. Take 
 a pound of marchpane (taste, and dilute 
 it with as many whites of eggs as will 
 make it spread easily with a knife; add to 
 this, a spoonful or two of prepared bolt-am- 
 moniac, which will give it a fine reJ tinge, 
 
 and half an ounce of cinnamon-powder. 
 When all these ingredients are well mixed, 
 cut some wafer-paper into such forms as you 
 may think proper, and lay on them the paste 
 alxntt the thickness of the eighth of an inch ; 
 place them on paper, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven. Wlien done, they may be 
 finished in the following manner: Boil 
 some sugar in orange-flower water, to la 
 plume, and as von take the sweetmeats from 
 the oven; dip a h.tir-penril into the sirup, 
 and brush thorn over; this dries almost im- 
 mediately, and considerably improves the 
 look of them. 
 
 CINNAMON WAFERS. Pound and 
 sift six ounces of sugar, and put it with an 
 equal quantity of melied fresh butter, the 
 same of flour, half an ounce of powdered 
 cinnamon, and a small egg; stirthc.-e up in 
 an eartheiman- v.-sel, with a sufficient 
 quantity of milk to make it into a thin, but 
 not too clear, jiaste. Make an iron plate 
 quite hot, rub it well with butter, then lay 
 on it a spoonful of il:o p.iste; fry it, and 
 when brown on both sides, roll it, still over 
 the hot iron, round a small stick; do this 
 until all the paste is ii.-ed. 
 
 CINNAMONUM. Take a quarter of 
 a pound of cinnamon, two drachms of mace, 
 and one ounce of stick-liquorice; bruise 
 heiii well, and then put them into three 
 quarts of t!ic he.-t I. randy; let the iut'ision 
 stand fur sume da\s l-et">re you distil it; 
 dissolve four poun Is i.f sugar III tluee pints 
 J'.nd a ha'.f of water; mix this sirup wilh the 
 liqueur, and then strain them. This is 
 sometimes called Oil of Cinnamon. 
 
 CITRON, CANDIED. Pare the citrons 
 very thin and narrow, and throw them into 
 water; these are called faggots; then cut 
 the citron imo slices of any thickness yon 
 think proper; takeout the inner part with 
 great care, so as to leave only the white 
 ring, an I put them with the faggots into 
 boiling water; when tender, drain them. 
 Boil a sufficient quantity uf clarified sugar 
 to souffle; then put in the rings, and boil 
 them ti;g(her. Take it from the fire, and 
 when a little cool, rub the sugar against the 
 side of the pre erving-pan with the back of 
 a spoon; as soon ;is it becomes while, take 
 out the rings with a fork very carefully, one 
 by one, and lay them on a wire-grate to 
 drain: boil and proceed with the faggots in 
 a similar way; when taken out, cut them 
 into proper lengths with a pair of scissors, 
 and lay them also on the wire to drain. 
 
 CITRON PASTE. Cut off the ends 
 of the citrons, take out the middle, with all 
 the seeds; boil them in some water; and
 
 CJT 
 
 275 
 
 COF 
 
 when quite fender, tal-:e thorn from the firr, 
 and ilirnw tlioin info mid water a moment; 
 then, having pressed them in a cloth to get 
 the water out, pound and sifl them. To 
 e\ery quarter itf a |xuind of this marmalade 
 put half a |K)iiiid of clarified sii^ir; simmer 
 them together, .-lining constantly imlil well 
 mixed ; ilHMi|)iit them inlo moulds, and place 
 them in a st .\u to dry. 
 
 CITRON WHITE PRESERVED. 
 
 Lay some white citrons, cut into pieces, in 
 salt and water for four or five hours; then, 
 having washed them in cold water, boil 
 Ui em ; when ten ier, drain, and lay ihern 
 into as much clarified siv;ar ,i< wilf cover 
 them. The next day drain off the simp, 
 and boil it; when <|>iire smooth and col:l, 
 pour it on the citrons: let them stand twen- 
 ty-four hours; then I nil the sirup again, 
 and pi:t in the citrons. The third day, 
 Kiil Iwth t. Aether, and put them into moulds 
 to candv . 
 
 CITRON J'RKSF.UVKJ) LIQUID. 
 Cut a slit in the sides of some small citrons, 
 so that the inside may lake the sugar as 
 well .1- the oiil.-ide, and put them over tin- 
 fire in some water; whenever lliey are near 
 boiling, put coli) v. ater to them. As soon 
 as tin- citrons rie to the top, take them oul, 
 and throw tliem into co'.l water. They 
 must then I* put on the hre again, in tlie 
 same water, and Ixtiled gently until tender; 
 tlien take them out. and pnt tliem in Cold 
 water. After this, l*>il them seven or eight 
 tinifs in clarilird >u;u; |xmr the whole 
 into an earthen pan, and let it stand. The 
 next day drain the fruit, and boil up the 
 sirup twenty or thirty times; add a little, 
 more sugar, and (xiiir it over the citrons; 
 do this fin' tin. days, increasing 
 
 tlie degree to which yon Ixiil the sugar daily, 
 so that at the last U.iling tlie degree may 
 he em perle. The fruit may then be put 
 into pots. 
 
 To pn-ene them dry, they must be done 
 exactly the same; only, instead of putting 
 tlie fruit into pot-", they should be dried on | 
 sieves in a stove. With the remaining su- | 
 gar the cilrmi- may be glazed. 
 
 CITRON RATAFIA. Pare seven or 
 eight citrons very thin; cut the peel into 
 small pieces, and put them into a jar, with 
 three pints of brandy, and let them inf.i.-e 
 for three weeks; thdi add to tins a pound 
 of sugar, Ixjiled in half a pint of water, and 
 well ?kimmrd; let it stand twelve or fifteen 
 days Linger, when it may !>e bottled. 
 
 (Tn:<>\. siurp OF. (i) Put into 
 
 a china bowl alternate layers of fine powder- 
 eugar, and citron, pare<{, and cut in very 
 
 thin slices, and let them sfand till the next 
 day; ilu-n strain off tlie sirup, and clarify it 
 over a gentle fire. 
 
 CITRON, SIRUP OF. (2) Put tlie 
 rinds of three citrons into an earthen ves- 
 sel, and strain on them the juice; to this 
 put a little water; pour the mixture into a 
 basin in which is four pounds of clarified 
 sugar, boiled to fort boulet. Place this 
 basin in a large saucepan, half filled with 
 water, over the lire; stir the contents of 
 the ha:-m freqaeotl] ; and when the sugar ig 
 entirely dissolved, and the sirup quite clear, 
 take tlie saucepan fiom the fire, and let it 
 cool. As soon as it is cold it may be boi- 
 tled. 
 
 CITRON NELLE RATAFIA. For 
 
 two quarts of the best brandy, take tlie 
 zestes or rinds of a dozen fine sound lem- 
 *ons, two drachms of bruised cinnamon, 'an 
 ounce of coriander, and two pounds of su- 
 gar, dissolved in a pint and a half of water; 
 infuse the whole for a month, then strain 
 and bottle it. 
 
 ri.OVF.S, OIL OF. This is made in 
 the same manner as cinnamonum ; the quanti- 
 ties are, an ounce of cloves to three quarts 
 of lirandv , and four pounds of sugar dis- 
 solved in fin pints cf water. 
 
 CLOVE PASTILS. Are made like 
 those of cinnamon. The proportions are 
 six cloves to half an ounce of gum-dragon. 
 
 CLOVES, SIRUP OF. Put a quarter 
 of a pound of cloves, and a quart of boiling 
 water into a slew-pan, cover it close, and 
 l'il them gently for half an hour; drain the 
 cloves, and to a pint of the liquor put two 
 pounds of sugar ; be-.it up two eggs in a little 
 cl I water, add them to the above, and sim- 
 mer the win Ic. till it becomes a strong sirup. 
 When cold, bottle it. 
 
 COFFEE BONBONS. Take about a 
 pint of coffee made wiih water; put in it a 
 pound of loaf-sugar ; set it on the fire and 
 boil it to a high degree; then add u full pint 
 of double cream, and let it lx>il again, keep- 
 ing continually stirring till it comes to cara- 
 mel height ; to know when it is cnme to 
 that point, you must have a basin of water 
 by you ; dip your finger in it, and put it 
 quickly in your sugar, then in tlie water 
 again, to remove the sugar, which will have 
 stuck to it ; tak,e a bit of it in your teeth; 
 if it is hard in its crackling, take it off, it 
 la sufficiently done; pour it ii|>on a tin plate, 
 which must be rubbed before with a little 
 butter, or it will stick to the plate; then 
 spread k with a tolling pin; (observe, the
 
 CON 
 
 276 
 
 CRE 
 
 rolling pin must likewise be rubbed with 
 butter, for fear it should stick;) when it is 
 warm, you may cut it into little squares, lo- 
 zenges, or any other shaped pastilles, and 
 draw a few strokes over them with a knife. 
 
 COFFEE CONSERVES. Clarify and 
 boil to the first degree a pound of sugar ; 
 take the sugar off the fire, and put into it 
 one cup of coffee ; stir it alxmt until it comes 
 to the sixth degree, that the conserve may 
 take the sugar and dry. 
 
 COFFEE EGGS. Make some good 
 strong coffee; let it rest to clear as usual, 
 and sweeten it with sugar according to dis- 
 cretion ; beat up six yolks of eggs, with 
 about four cups of coffee, and sift it; pour 
 this into little moulds in the form of eggs, or 
 of any other, (do not fill them quite,) and 
 bake in a mild oven, or a Dutch one, or 
 with a brazing-pan ; cover between twfi 
 fires. They are made after this manner, in 
 the shape of any fruits or birds, if you have 
 proper moulds, either of copper or china, 
 &c. 
 
 COLTSFOOT, SIRUP OF. Take of 
 coltsfoot six ounces, maidenhair two ounces, 
 hyssop one ounce, liquorice-root one ounce; 
 boil them in two quarts of spring water till 
 one fourth is consumed; then strain it, and 
 put to the liquor two pounds of fine powder- 
 sugar; clarify it with the whites of eggs, 
 and boil it till it is nearly as thick us 
 honey. 
 
 CONSERVES, DRIED. For all sorts 
 of conserves, the sugar should be prepared 
 to the ninth degree, according to the quan- 
 tity wanted ; they are all made much after 
 the same manner, the only difference being 
 in the quantity of fruits proposed. Con- 
 serves are made with all sorts of sweetmeat 
 marmalade, sifted in a sieve, and soaked 
 pretty dry over a slow fire ; use about half 
 a pound of the sugar thus prepared, to a 
 quarter of a pound of sweetmeat marmalade ; 
 take the sugar off the fire to work them 
 well together; warm the whole for a mo- 
 ment, and pour it into paper cases made for 
 the purpose; when it is cool it may be cut 
 into cakes of what size you please. 
 
 CONSERVE OF FOUR FRUITS. 
 
 Take strawberries, currants, cherries, and 
 raspberries, of each a quarter of a pound, 
 and three pounds of sugar. Bruise your 
 fruit, and having strained off the juice, put 
 it in a saucepan over a gentle fire, stirring 
 it till reduced to half. Dissolve the sugar, 
 skim, and boil it to cause; take it from the 
 fire while you put in the juice, then put it 
 on again, and give it one boil, take it off, 
 
 and keep stirring till the sugar bubbles, when 
 the conserve may be poured into moulds. 
 
 CONSERVES, HARD IN MOULDS. 
 These are made in the same manner aa 
 other conserves, except that they are com- 
 posed of sugar, and distilled aromatic wa- 
 ter; and may be colored like pastils. 
 
 CORIANDER DRAGEES. Take any 
 
 quantity of coriander seeds, put them in the 
 tossing-pan over the fire, and let them warm ; 
 when they are warm throw in about half a 
 glass of vinegar, stir them well till they are 
 dry ; have clarified sugar, which boil in an- 
 other pan ; then when the corianders are 
 dry, add a little gum to them, and do the 
 same again till they are dry, and continue 
 so doing till you see the corianders are cov- 
 ered to the size you want (o have them; 
 when that is done, take the corianders out 
 from the pan, wash them well, anil put them 
 in again, and stir them well till they are all 
 warm ; then take your clarified sugar, which 
 you have previously boiled to the first de- 
 gree ; when this is done, put it in an instru- 
 ment of copper, made on purpose for the 
 operation, and at the bottom of \\Miich there 
 is a little hole; hang it up by a packthread 
 string, that the sugar may fall from about a 
 yard height into the pan where the corian- 
 ders are ; while the sugar falls into your pan 
 keep stirring well your dragees till you see 
 they are well pearled over, or rough and 
 grainy ; when they are sufficiently so, take 
 them out, and place them in the stove to 
 finish drying. 
 
 CORIANDER SUGARED. These 
 seeds are sugared in the same manner as 
 sugared almonds. 
 
 CREAM, BAIN-MARIE. Mix up 
 
 whatever ingredient of which the cream 
 is to be made, with eggs and sugar ; for the 
 proportions, see the respective articles; 
 strain them through a fine sieve, and pour 
 the preparation into a mould lightly buttered 
 within side. Put this mould into a large 
 saucepan, with a sufficient quantity of boil- 
 ing water to reach within an inch of the 
 mould ; place the saucepan on hot ashes, 
 cover it, and place hot coals on the lid; 
 renew the fire underneath occasionally, so 
 as to keep the water at the same tempera- 
 ture, that is, nearly, but never quite, boil- 
 ing for an hour and a half; then, if the 
 cream is properly set, which may be known 
 by touching it with your finger, and observ- 
 ing whether it may be easily detached from 
 the mould, take it from the bain-marie and 
 let it stand ; when no more than lukewarm, 
 turn it out on your dish. 
 
 It sometimes happens, unavoidably, that
 
 CRE 
 
 277 
 
 CRO 
 
 bubbles arise on the surface of '.he cream ; 
 in such a case, boil a glass of cream, and 
 
 add to it, by degrees, three yolks of eggs; 
 stir it constantly with a wooden spoon; mix 
 three ounces of line Migar with it, and con- 
 tinue stirring it over the lire, till of a proper 
 consistence, and on the point of boiling, 
 then take it off arid strain it. When the 
 cream is ready for table, cover it complete- 
 ly with the last made cream, which will 
 hide its defects. 
 
 CREAM BISCUITS. Break six eggs, 
 separate the volks and whites, beat the 
 former with six ounces of powder-sugar, 
 and the same of flour; whisk the whites, 
 and then mix them together ; add to it 
 whip|>od cream, in proportion to the sugar 
 and tloiir, stir it carefully, pour this into 
 moulds or paper cases, and bake. 
 
 CREAM CARAMEL. Put a pint of 
 
 milk and half a pint of cream, with a bit 
 of cinnamon, some coriander-seeds, and 
 die peel of a yiuns; lemon, into a saucepan, 
 and li"il (hem for a quarter of an hour; 
 then take it off the lire; and l>il a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar with half a glass of wa- 
 ter, until it Ix'comes of a nice dark color; 
 take it off the Cue, am I mix with the cream; 
 then put it mi the tin- again, until the sugar 
 and cream are well mixed together; then 
 place a saucepan, with some hot water in 
 it, over hot a>hcs ; take a di.-h, in which 
 you intend serving, and |x>ur into it your 
 cream, then place it in the sauce|xin ; put 
 on the lid of the saucepan, with fire atiove, 
 and let it boil till the cream Is set. Serve 
 hot. 
 
 CREAM, SXOW. Put to a quart of 
 
 cream the whites of three eggs well lieaten, 
 
 four spoonfuls of swi-et wine, sugar to your 
 
 .d a bit of lemon-peel ; whip it to a 
 
 froth ; remove the peel, and serve in a dish. 
 
 CRKAM OF ANY PRESERVED 
 
 FRl'IT. Take half a pound of the pulp 
 of any preserved fruit, put it in a large pan, 
 put to it the w hites of two or three eggs, beat 
 together well for an hour; take it off widi 
 a spoon, and lav it heaped on a dish, or 
 pla-s s;ihei, with other creams, or put it 
 in the middle of a basin. Raspberries will 
 not do this way. 
 
 CREAM RHEMSH. Put over the 
 fire a pint of Khenish wine, a stick of cin- 
 namon, anil half A pound of sugar; while 
 this is Iniiling, take w\en \olks and whites 
 , lieat them well together with a 
 whisk, till your wine is half driven in them, 
 and your egjfa 10 a sirup; strike it very 5ut 
 with the whi.-k, till it comes to such thick- 
 24 
 
 ness that you may lift it on the point of a 
 knife, but be sure not to let it curdle; add 
 to it the juice of a lemon, and orange-flower 
 water; pour it into your dish; garnish it 
 with citron, sugar, or biscuit, and serve. 
 
 CREAM, ROYAL ICES. Take any 
 quantity of cream, add to it yolks of eggs in 
 proportion (that is, four yolks of eggs to 
 every pint of cream) put a little half pound- 
 ed coriander, cinnamon, orange or lemon- 
 peel; add some pounded lump sugar, and 
 set it on the fire till it nearly boils; then 
 pass it through a sieve, and put it to ice. 
 
 CREAM, WHITE SHERBET. Put 
 
 the yolks of six eggs, and a dessert spoon- 
 ful of orange-flower water or crisped orange 
 flowers in powder, into two quarts of cream, 
 and boil it up once in a covered saucepan; 
 then pass it through a sieve, add to it three- 
 quarters of a pound of powder-sugar, and 
 as soon as it is perfectly dissolved, pour the 
 whole into a sorbetiere, which place in an 
 ice pail, and proceed to cool it as directed. 
 See Sherbet. 
 
 CREAM SNOW. Mix a quart of 
 cream with the whites of six eggs, sweeten 
 it with sugar and rose water, and strain 
 them ; then I, cat up the cream with a bundle 
 of reeds tied together, or with a whisk; 
 and aa the snow rises take it up with a 
 spoon in the cullender, that the liquid part 
 may run out: when you have taken off as 
 much of the snow as you please, boil the 
 rest of the cream, w ith a stick of cinnamon, 
 some cloves, and a little bruised ginger; 
 boil it till it is thick; strain it, and when 
 it is cold, put it into a dish, and lay your 
 snow upon it. 
 
 CREAM, CARAMEL WHIPPED. 
 
 Boil six ounces of sugar to caramel, and 
 when it has acquired the proper reddish, 
 yellow tinge, dissolve it in half a glass 
 of boiling water, over hot a.-lirs; after 
 which, it must be reduced to a rather thick 
 sirup. When cold, mix it with the whip- 
 ped cream in the usual way. See Whip- 
 ped Cream. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF DESTREES. 
 
 Use the best puff paste ; roll it pretty thin, 
 and cut it into different shapes, as fancy 
 leads ; bake it, and dress each piece upon 
 a dish, in a handsome manner; rub them 
 with a little caramel, to make diem stick 
 as you place them ; then put some currant 
 jelly all over the top, and make what flow- 
 er or design you please, with nonpareils of 
 different colors, round it. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF PARIS. Tk
 
 CUR 
 
 278 
 
 CUR 
 
 A stick of vanilla, pound it with two 
 ounces of sugar, and silt both through a 
 silk sieve; mix it with seven ounces of 
 sugar, well dried and pounded, and half 
 a pound of fine sifted flour; then stir in the 
 whites of four eggs, whipped firm, and 
 work the whole together for some minutes. 
 
 Heat two large baking-plates of copper, 
 rub them over lightly with virgin wax; when 
 they are cold, take a spoonful of the prepa- 
 ration, and lay it on the plate the same as 
 the spoon-biscuit?, taking care to lay them 
 three-quarters of an inch apart ; when both 
 plates are full, place them on stools, in the 
 oven or stove ; close the top, and lay embers 
 oVer it, so that the croquettes may be as far 
 removed from the fire as possible ; let them 
 remain in this state all night; the next 
 morning put them into a moderate oven, and 
 bake them fifteen or twenty minutes; they 
 should then quit the plate easily, and be of 
 a clear reddish color; remove them from 
 the plates whilst hot. The croquettes 
 may be flavored according to your fancy. 
 
 CURACAO. This is a species of bitter 
 or wild orange, of which the rind is dried, 
 and may be had at the druggists. To make 
 the liqueur called by this name, wash a 
 pound of curacao several times in warm 
 water; then, having well drained, put them 
 into a vessel with four quarts of brandy, and 
 one of water; let it stand closely covered 
 for a fortnight, shaking it frequently; distil 
 it after that in the usual way, and drain the 
 curacao on a sieve. Sweeten it with five 
 pounds and a half of sugar, dissolved in 
 three pints of water, mix it with the spirit 
 and then filter it. 
 
 CURDS AND WHEY. Take a num- 
 ber of the rough coals that line the gizzards 
 of turkeys and fowls; clean (hem from the 
 pebbles "they contain, rub them well with 
 salt, and hang them to dry. This makes a 
 more tender and delicate curd than common 
 rennet. When to l)e used, break off some 
 bits of the skin, and put on it some boiling 
 water; in eight or nine hours use the liquor 
 ae you do other rennet. 
 
 CURRANT CAKES. Pick and wash 
 the currants, either white or red ; to two 
 quarts of currants, put one pint of water; 
 when boiled, run the juice through a jelly 
 bag, do not press the bag ; to one quart of 
 juice put three pounds of sugar; boil up the 
 juice, and strew in the sugar ; pour it into 
 glasses, dry it in a stove till it will turn out, 
 then dry the cakes on plates. 
 
 CURRANTS, CONSERVE OF. 
 Take tlie seeds from two pounds of red cur- 
 rants, and put them on the fire in a silver 
 
 pan, to dry them ; then press them through 
 a sieve, and put thorn again on the fire, stir- 
 ring constantly until you can see the bottom 
 of the pan; then, having dissolved and boil- 
 ed three pounds of sugar to casse, pour it on 
 the fruit, stirring continually ; in a short 
 time take it off, stirring it as before until it 
 bubbles ; then pour it into moulds. 
 
 CURRANT ICES. (1) Boil two pounds 
 of red currants a moment with a quarter of 
 a pound of raspberries ; rub them through a 
 sieve, adding a pint of water, and tlien the 
 
 sugar, which must be very well dissolved 
 u r 
 before icing. 
 
 CURRANT ICES. (2) Pick some cur- 
 rants from their stalks, and squeeze them 
 through a sieve; then take clarified sugar, 
 boil it to a very high degree, add it to your 
 currant juice, and, if you choose, squeeze in 
 the juice of four lemons, it will make it 
 more mellow; strain them through the sieve 
 a second time, put them in the icing pot, and 
 finish the same as all other ices. 
 
 CURRANT ICE CREAM. Take one 
 large spoonful and a half of currant jelly, 
 put it into a basin, with half a gill of sirup, 
 squeeze in one lemon and a half; add a pint 
 of cream and a little cochineal, then pass it 
 through a sieve, and freeze it according to 
 custom. 
 
 CURRANT WATER ICE. Take a 
 large spoonful and a half of currant jelly, put 
 it into a basin, and add to it the juice of 
 two lemons, half a gill of sirup, and a pint 
 of water: then freeze it rich. 
 
 CURRANT JELLY FRAMBOISEE. 
 Take seven pounds of fine ripe red currants, 
 three of white, and Iwo of white raspber- 
 ries, press them through a very cluse horse- 
 hair sieve; pour the juice on nine pounds 
 of double-refined sugar, broken in small 
 pieces, place the whole on a brisk fire, tak- 
 ing care to remove the scum as soon as it 
 appears. When the boilings follow each 
 other very quickly, take out the skimmer, 
 (which should be of copper) stir it, and let 
 the jelly tall from it ; on quitting the skim- 
 mer it ought to fall like treacle. If it does 
 so, it is sufficiently done. This jelly should 
 be rose-colored; by making it entirely of 
 red currants and red rasplwrries, the color 
 of the jelly will be red. 
 
 CURRANT PASTE. Pick and take 
 the seeds from ten pounds of fine red cur- 
 rants, crush them, and having pressed out 
 the juice, SUM in it through a silk sieve. 
 Clarify and boil to casse an equal quantity 
 of sugar, |H)ur the currant juice oil it, set the
 
 DRA 
 
 279 
 
 DRA 
 
 whole over a gentle fire, stirring constantly 
 until it becomes of a proper consistence, 
 which may lie known by observing when the 
 bottom of the pan cun be seen clearly; take 
 it off from the fire as soon as that is the 
 case, and pour the paste into tin moulds, 
 which must be placed on slates, or copper 
 plates: smooth the tops with the blade of a 
 knife, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and pluce 
 them in a stove, H here they must remain till 
 next day ; when tl>e paste should l>e turned 
 in the moulils; sprinkle sifted sugar over 
 them again, and set them in the stove a 
 second night; on the following day remove 
 them from the moulds, lay it in boxes, \vilh 
 white paper between each layer, and keep 
 thru, in a dry place. A sixth part of the 
 quantity of raspberries added to the currants, 
 would greatly improve the flavor of this 
 paste. 
 
 CURRANT PASTILS. Take half a 
 pound of |x>unded loaf sugar on a plate, then 
 a quantity of currants, which squeeze through 
 a MI-MS when that is done, add the juice to 
 the sugar, till it makes a paste as clear and 
 thick as you think proper. 
 
 CURRANT SIIRrn. To five pints of 
 Currant juice, either red or white, one pound 
 and a half of loaf sugar; when dissolved, 
 put to it one gallon of rum or brandy ; clear 
 it through a flannel bag. 
 
 CURRANT SIRUP. Put five or six 
 pounds of red, two of white currants, and 
 two Ixittles of raspberries, into a sieve; crush 
 tlieni, and press the juice through it into a 
 pan, and place it in a cellar to ferment; in a 
 week's time, pass the juice through a strain, 
 ing bag, and having clarified, and boiled to 
 fort souffle four pounds of sugar, put the 
 juice to it, and boil them together once; 
 skim, and take it from the lire. It is ne- 
 cessary that the currant juice should ferment, 
 to prevent its becoming a jelly in the bottles. 
 
 D. 
 
 DRAGEES, COMMON. The paste for 
 these dragees is made in lire same manner 
 as for the better sort, but the materials differ 
 a little: thus to a quarter of a pound of the 
 gum, take either equal quantities of sugar 
 nnd powder, or one-third of the former to 
 two-thirds of the latter. VVIicn these and 
 the gum art- well mixed, roll out the paste 
 until it is as thin as the back of a knife- 
 blade; then take a jiaMr-ciitter, shaped like 
 a sugar-loaf, with the tup taken off, with ibe 
 ml of which, rut as many piece* of 
 the paste us will about two-thirds till the 
 
 cutter ; press these through the smaller end 
 into paper cases; set them in a warm place 
 for several days. These kind of dragees 
 may, if liked, "be sugared in die same man- 
 ner as almonds. 
 
 DRAGEES EN PASTILLAGE. These 
 
 dragees are made of the same materials as 
 the superfine dragees; the only difference 
 consists in their forms, which resemble the 
 bonbons: to make them, it is necessary to 
 have a number of wooden moulds, (pear- 
 tree wood is the best), on which must be 
 stamped small squares, with various device* 
 engraved on them. Cut your paste into 
 small pieces; press each piece on a mould; 
 take off alj the super-abundant paste ; then 
 dip your finger in water, and with it remove 
 the paste from the mould; dry them in case* 
 like die other drageet. 
 
 DRAGEES, SUPERFINE. Put a 
 
 quarter of a pound of die best gum-dragon 
 into a pan, with a pint of cold water, cover, 
 and let it stand for twenty-four hours; then 
 take a strong close cloth, about two feet 
 long, and put a part of your gum into it; 
 fold it three times, so as to envelope the gum; 
 then wring the cloth, by which means the 
 purest gum will be forced through ; scrape 
 it off carefully with a knife, and then proceed 
 in die same way, until all the gum be train- 
 ed ; put it into a marble mortar, and stir it 
 about with a pestle for half an hour; then 
 add to it a pound of double-refined sifted 
 sugar; mix them together well, until it be- 
 comes a stiff paste; divide this into five 
 parts, four of which must be tinged as fol- 
 lows: red, blue, yellow, and green, (the fifth 
 left white), with the usual coloring materials. 
 Before, however, diey are colored, add to 
 each piece, a pound and a half of double- 
 refined sugar, sifted, dipping the paste in 
 water occasionally, to enable it to receive 
 the additional quantity of sugar. When you 
 mix in the coloring materials, add also a 
 corresponding perfume: as, to die red, rose- 
 water, and a few drops of essence of roses ; 
 to die blue, oil of violets ; to the yellow, es- 
 sence of cedar; to die green, essence of 
 bergamot ; and with die white, mix a little 
 orauge-tlower water, and some drops of es- 
 sence of Neroli. 
 
 Your paste being dius prepared, form it 
 of whatever little ornaments you please, such 
 as egg?, balls, turnips, (adding green leaves 
 to the*-), 8tc. of die white; of the yellow, 
 apricot.-!, pears, carrots, &c. ; plums, &c. 
 of the blue; and so on; rolling them in your 
 hands to smooth diem, and make them all 
 quite small; to those which imitate fruits, 
 add tails and tops, cut from cherry-stalks, 
 and muck on whilst the paste is damp; and 
 with u hair-pencil, dipped in powdered cio-
 
 EGG 
 
 280 
 
 FIL 
 
 nabar, tinge the pears, apples, and apricots, 
 slightly breathing on them to moisten the 
 mil-fare. When all are done, put them into 
 paper cases, and set them in a warm place 
 for several days, to dry. 
 
 E. 
 
 EGGS CARAMEL. Take the yolks 
 of a dozen hard eggs, bruise them in a sauce- 
 pan, with some powder-sugar, three almond 
 biscuits, and half a glass of cream; make 
 these into a paste, of which form little eggs, 
 dip them in caramel sugar, and brown them. 
 
 EGGS DUCHESSE. Boil a pint and 
 a half of cream with some sugar, orange- 
 flower, candied lemon-peel, marchpane, and 
 burn: almonds, all chopped small or bruised ; 
 whip up the whites of eight eggs well, and 
 then take two or three spoonfuls of them at 
 a time, and poach them in the cream ; drain, 
 and lay them on a dish, so as to resemble 
 eggs poached without the yolks. When all 
 the whites are thus used, put the cream on 
 the fire, and reduce it, and as the dish is 
 gent to table, add the yolks to the cream, 
 and pour die sauce gently over the eggs. 
 
 EGGS FILAGRAMME. Take a pint 
 of white wine, half a pound of fine powder- 
 sugar, 'and make it into a clear sirup with 
 the white of an egg; beat up well eight 
 eggs, and pour them through a colander 
 into the sirup; a very short time is sufficient 
 to cook them. Serve either hot or cold. 
 
 EGGS OF SNOW. Break ten eggs, 
 and having separated the yolks and whites, 
 whip the latter as for biscuits; then add 
 two spoonfuls of powder-sugar, and a little 
 dried orange-flower in powder. Pour a 
 quart of milk, six ounces of powder-sugar, 
 and a little orange-flower, into a saucepan, 
 and when it boils put into it, a dessert-s|x>on- 
 ful at a time, of the white of egg ; poach ihe 
 latter, ami then set them on a sieve to drain. 
 Then beat up the yolks, and mix them with 
 half the milk, put it on the fire, and stir it 
 with a wooden-spoon till it begins to thick- 
 en ; then take it off, lay the poached eggs in 
 a dish, and cover them with the yolks and 
 milk. 
 
 EGGS, WHITE OF. To make a dish 
 of these, take the whites of twelve eggs, 
 beat them up with four spoonfuls of rose-wa- 
 ter, some lemon-peel grated, and a little 
 nutmeg; sweeten them with sugar, mix 
 them well, and boil them in four bladders; 
 tie them in the shape of an egg, and boil 
 them hard; they will take half an hour; 
 
 lay them in a dish ; when cold, mix half a 
 pint of thick cream, a gill of mountain, and 
 the juice of half an orange all together; 
 sweeten it with line sugar, and serve it over 
 
 F. 
 
 FILBERT BISCUITS. Take some 
 Barcelona filbert nuts, and put them in a mor- 
 tar to break their shells ; pick all the shells 
 from them clean, pound them in a mortar 
 very fine, and mix whites of eggs with them ; 
 take care they do not oil ; mix three pounds 
 of powdered-sugar, with the nuts and whites 
 of eggs, to a proper thickness ; let your oven 
 be of a moderate heat, then with the spaddlc 
 and knife, drop small pieces, about half as 
 big as a nutmeg; put two or three sheets of 
 paper under them, let them bake of a fine 
 brown, and all alike; and let them be cold 
 before you take them off the paper. 
 
 FILBERT CANNELLONS. Burn 
 
 and pound six ounces of filberts, moist- 
 ening them with white of egg; when well 
 pounded, add a quarter of a pound of 
 fine pounded sugar, and half the white of an 
 egg; dry this paste a little, and then press 
 it through a syringe, cutting the cannelloni 
 about four inches in length ; make the fri- 
 ture quite hot, dip the cannellons in batter, 
 and fry them. Sprinkle them with sugar, 
 and glaze them with a salamander. Take 
 particular care to keep the cannellons per- 
 fectly straight. 
 
 FILBERT BURNT, ICE CREAM. 
 
 Roast some Barcelona nuts well in the oven, 
 and pound them a little with some cream; 
 put four eggs into a stewpan, with one pint 
 of cream and two gills of sirup; boil it till it 
 Incomes thick, pass it through a sieve, and 
 freeze it; then mix the filberts with it be- 
 fore you put it into your moulds. 
 
 FILBERT MACAROONS. Take a 
 pound of filberts, and put a quarter of them 
 into a preserving-pan (immediately after you 
 have taken them from the shells,) over a 
 moderate fire; stir them continually with a 
 silver spoon, until they are colored, and the 
 ins to peel off; then take them out; 
 
 skin 
 
 rub off the skin entirely, and when quite 
 cold, pound them with a little white of egg: 
 proceed in the same manner with the re- 
 maining three-quarters; and when all are 
 thus pounded separately, put the whole to- 
 gether into the mortar, with a pound of 
 sugar, and the whites of two eggs, and beat 
 them for ten minutes; after which, add two 
 pounds more of sifted sugar, previously beat'
 
 GOO 
 
 281 
 
 GRE 
 
 en up with six whites of eggs ; stir all these 
 together well for five or six minutes, when 
 the preparation should Insufficiently firm, tu 
 prevent its spreadm,- when laid; if, how- 
 ever, it ! too firm, add to it mure white of 
 egg. When you have proceeded so far, wet 
 the palms of your hands, and roll a spoonful 
 of the preparation to the si/.c and form of a 
 miluiei:; when all rlone, dip your hands in 
 water, and pass them gently o\er the maca- 
 roons, which will make their surface smooth 
 and shining; put them into a nearly cold 
 oven; close ii ti^ht, and let them remain in 
 it for three-quarters of an hour. I.ay the 
 macaroons at least an inch apart, and as 
 round as possible. 
 
 FLOWERS I.\ ST'GAR. Clarify sn- 
 gar to a caramel height, whi<-h may be 
 Known liy dipping in a (in k, and if it throws 
 the -uj n as line as threads, put ill (he flow- 
 ers. I Live re. iily some tea-cups, with the 
 insides rubbed with sweet oil; put into each 
 cnp four tablc-s|x>otmils of the sugar and 
 flower-, and when cold turn them out of tile 
 cii|>s, anil sent' them to table piled one upon 
 another. 
 
 FIM1T nisrriTS. To the pulp of 
 V.I fiuit. put an e<)iial qnautilv of 
 snu'ar sifted, Ix-at it two hours; then put it 
 into little while paper firms; dry them in a 
 roul oven, turn them the next day, and in 
 two or tint* days Ixix them. 
 
 FRITC, PUF.SF.KVED, BISCUITS 
 
 OF. Take dried preserved fruits, such as 
 apricots, verjuice, gt:i|x-s, plums, oranges, 
 and a little onin;;e-llower marmalade; 
 pound tliem together, and sift in a sieve; 
 then mix it w ilh yolks of ue\\ l.iid 
 fine powder-sugar, until it roines to a supple 
 paste, not too liquid ; then bike them on 
 paper in a moderate oven. 
 
 G. 
 
 GINGER, CANDIED. Put an ounce 
 of ginger, grated fine, and a pound of rifted 
 migar into a pre-sem-iu-pan with as much 
 water as will dissolve it. Stir them well 
 together <>\er a slow fire, till the sugar l>e- 
 gi'is to boil; then add another pound, stir- 
 ring constantly till it thickens. Take it 
 from ihe liie, drop it on eailhen i! 
 them in a warm place to dry, and tley will 
 be hard and laittle and look white. 
 
 GOOSEP.ERRY CAKES. Break the 
 
 Mfeberrien, pic-s out the juice, and strain 
 
 it through a muslin; to one pint of juice a 
 
 pound of nig .11 ; boil up Uie juice; strew in 
 
 24* 
 
 the sugar: stir it well; simmer it well till 
 the su_r;ir is unhid; pour it into glasses: 
 dry it in a stove till it w ill turn out, then 
 dry the cakes on plates. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES, GREEN, COM- 
 POTE OF. Give them a little cut on one 
 side to squeeze out the seeds, and put them 
 in hot water to scald, till they rise to the 
 top; then put cold water to them, adding a 
 little salt, to bring them to their natural 
 green; simmer them in clarified sugar, and 
 lei them remain in sometime to imbibe the 
 sweet; take them out, and put th. in in the 
 eompotier ; reduce the simp to a good con- 
 sistence, and pour it over the fruit. This 
 is for green gooselxrries ; but if you make 
 use of preserved ones, warm diem in their 
 own sirup and a little, water, and serve it 
 either hot or cold. These will not keep 
 long, particularly if they have been wanned 
 again: if exposed to the air any time, they 
 will lose their color. 
 
 GRAPE ICE. Take ripe grapes, pick 
 them from their stalks, pa.-s them through 
 a sieve; mix some sugar widi the juice of 
 four lemons squeezed upon it ; pass the 
 whole together a second time through a 
 sieve, then freeze it. 
 
 GRAPES RATAFIA. Take some 
 fine muscadine grapes, pick them from the 
 stalks; bruise and press (hem, so as to ex- 
 tract all their juice ; then dissolve some su- 
 gar in the grape juice, adding to it Iwandy 
 and cinnamon; let the whole infuse for a 
 fortnight ; then strain it through a filtering 
 b:n;, and Ixittle it off. The proper propor- 
 tions are one pint of brandy, and ten ounces 
 of sugar to one pint of grujie juice. 
 
 GREEN-GAGES TO CANDY. When 
 finished in the sirup, (see preen-gaget to 
 pretfrve,) put a layer into a new sieve, 
 and dip it slid lenly into hot water, to take 
 off the sirup that hangs about it ; then put 
 it on a napkin before the fire to drain, and 
 then do some more on the sieve. Have 
 ready some silled double-refined sugar, gift 
 this all over every part of the fruit, till it IB 
 perfectly while. Set it on the shallow end 
 of sieves in a lightly warm oven, and turn 
 it two or three times. It must not be cold 
 till dry. Watch it carefully. 
 
 GREEN GAGES TO PRESERVE. 
 
 You must choose the largest, when they b*- 
 ginto soften; split without paring them, ami 
 having previously weighed an equal quant i- 
 1 ir, strew a part of it over them; 
 blanch the kernels with a small sharp knife ; 
 next day, [.our the sirup from the fruit, and 
 boil it with the other sugar, very gently, for
 
 JUN 
 
 282 
 
 LEM 
 
 six or eight minutes; skim, and add the 
 plums and kernels. Simmer till clear, 
 taking off any scum that rises; put the fruit 
 single into small pots, and pour the sirup 
 and kernels upon it. 
 
 GUM PASTE. Put a pound of gum- 
 dragon in a basin, with warm water enough 
 to cover one inch above the gum ; set this in 
 a warm closet for four and twenty hours ; 
 have a new tammy ready laid over a dish; 
 spread it on it, and squeeze through as 
 much as you can at first ; then open the 
 tammy, spread the gum out again, and then 
 squeeze it; repeat this till the whole is 
 through ; then lay it on the slab, work it 
 well with your hand, put in nearly all the 
 juice of one lemon, and a pound of the best 
 double refined powder-sugar, by degrees, as 
 you work it; but before you have put in the 
 whole of the sugar, begin lo add some of 
 the best starch powder; blend them thor- 
 oughly together, till the paste lgins to 
 take an impression ; then roll it in a cloth, 
 and let it stand in a damp place for a week 
 or ten days, (it is the better for keeping), 
 work it will] powder, and it will cut and 
 mould to any shape you please, and when 
 you want it to harden, set it in a dry place; 
 if you wish to color it, to make it red, use 
 cochineal or carmine ; fur blue or violet 
 color, use indigo; for yellow, saffron; for 
 green, the juice of beet leaves, scalded over 
 the fire, the thick part mix with the paste. 
 When you put in colors, \x careful to blend 
 them well, and be particular that the color 
 is good. 
 
 H. 
 
 HARTSHORN CREAM. Boil a quar- 
 ter of a pound of hartshorn-shavings in three 
 pints of water; when reduced to half a pint, 
 strain it through a jelly-bag; put it to a 
 pint of cream and a quarter of a pound of 
 powder-sugar, and give them one boil to- 
 gether ; then put it into cii|>s or glasses, and 
 let them stand till cold, when turn them out 
 on a dish; stick some sliced blanched al- 
 monds on the top of each. White wine 
 and sugar is. usually eaten with them. 
 
 J. 
 
 JUNIPER BERRIES, ICES OF. In- 
 fuse some juniper berries in warm water, 
 or take about a handful of the berries, and 
 boil them a moment with a pint of water, 
 half a pound of sugar, and a bit of cinna- 
 mon, and sifc them through a sieve with ex- 
 pression, and finish the same as all others. 
 
 JUNIPER RATAFIA. Take three 
 ounces of juniper berries, anise, corian- 
 der, cinnamon, and cloves, of each eight- 
 een grains; bruise all these ingredients, and 
 infuse them, for a month, in three pints of 
 brandy ; then strain it, add three-QuarUm> 
 of a pound of sugar dissolved in half a pint 
 of water, stir them together, pass the whole 
 through a jelly-bag, and bottle it ; keep it 
 well corked. 
 
 L. 
 
 LEMON BRANDY. Put the peel of 
 two lemons into a bottle of brandy, let it 
 stand for four and twenty hours, then strain 
 it; Iwil two ounces of loaf sugar in a quar- 
 ter of a pint of water; then skim, and let it 
 stand till cold; when cold, mix it with the 
 brandy. 
 
 LEMON CAKES. Quarter as many 
 lemons as you think proper, they must have 
 good rinds, and boil them in two or three 
 waters, till they are tender, and have lost 
 their bitterness; then skin them, and put 
 them in a napkin to fry; with a knife take 
 all the skins and seeds out of the pulp, shred 
 the peels fine, put them to the pulp, uci^h 
 them, and put rather more than their weight 
 of fine sugar into a tossing-pan, with just 
 sufficient water to dissolve the sugar; boil 
 it till it becomes perfectly dissolved, and 
 then by degrees put in the peel and pulps; 
 stir them well before you set them on the 
 fire, boil it very gently till it looks clear and 
 thick, and then put it into flat-bottomed 
 glasses; set them in a stove, and keep them 
 in a continual and moderate heat, and turn 
 them out upon glasses, as soon as they arc 
 candied. 
 
 LEMON COMPOTE. Cut them in 
 small pieces, and boil them in water till 
 they are tender, tl>en change them into cold 
 water; then make a sirup with a glass of 
 water, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 and put in the fruit ; let it simmer gently 
 over a slow fire for half an hour, and serve 
 cold. 
 
 LEMON CONSERVE. Grate the rind 
 of a lemon on a piece of sugar (about a 
 pound,) scrape off the surface of the sugar 
 as the lemon adheres to it, until you have 
 rasped the whole of die rind ; squeeze half 
 the juice on the scraped sugar, and then 
 boil the rest to la grande plume; take it 
 from the fire when at this degree, and let it 
 stand a little; stir in the lemon gently, and 
 when it forms a sort of glace on the top of 
 the sugar, pour the conserve into moulds ;
 
 LEM 
 
 283 
 
 LEM 
 
 being careful, however, that it is not too 
 hot. 
 
 LEMON' DROPS. Grate three large 
 
 lemons. uiih a large piece of double refined 
 ttii<;;ir; thru scrape tlie itigiir into a plate, 
 add halt a tBMpowrfU of flour; mix well 
 together, and U-at it into a light paste, with 
 tlie while nt' an egg. Drop it upon white 
 Draper, put them on a tin-plate, and set them 
 in a model ale oven. 
 
 LEMON ICE CREAM. Take the juice 
 of three or t'mr lemons, and grate lle peel 
 t' niie I, iiimi ; adil two gills of .-imp. ami 
 
 r ii i 
 
 one pint o| cream ; mix it all togetlier, pa.<s 
 it thi'iiujli a sieve, and freeze it. 
 
 I.r.MONS TO KEEP FOR PUD- 
 DINGS. When you squeeze the fruit, 
 throw the outside in water, without the 
 pulp ; let tin-in remain in the sum- a I'.nt- 
 nignt, adding no more; Ixiil them in the 
 same til! ii -nder ; strain it from them, and 
 when the\ ai-e nearly dry, throw them into 
 nny jar of candv you may have remaining 
 from iilii sweetmeats; or, if you haxe none, 
 boil a small ijiianlily of sirup, of common 
 1" il".-i:_;:ir and uater, and (xuir over them ; 
 in a week or ten days, lioil them gently in 
 it till they look clear; and that they may 
 lx- c.ixeie.! xxilh it ill the jar, you may cut 
 each half <>f llii' fiuil in two, and they will 
 occupy a .-mailer s|>acc. 
 
 ..N 1'ASTII.S. Take half a pound 
 of |xiiinrVd loaf Mi^ar, sifted as fine as pos- 
 sible; put it in a plate, take three or fmir 
 lemons, anil squec/.e tlieir juice over tlie su- 
 gar; mix it well with a -pnun, till you make 
 It rather a ihickish pa.-le, -u tlr.it MUI can 
 take it np'iii a knife; then lake half a sheet 
 nf |>a|ier. and coxer it with lilile round and 
 flat drops, alxint the si/e of a sixpence, place 
 them in a -t,.\e u illl a slow tire till they are 
 quite dry, then take llk-m oil' from tlie paper; 
 you may u.-e, ifyini please, some of tile peel 
 grated, lint nut chipped; fi>r, as it is a melt- 
 ing pa.-iil, some of the hits would remain in 
 tlie mouth. 
 
 LKMOV I'EEI. CANDIED. Take 
 
 pome thick-rinded lemons, pare olT ihe yel- 
 low |-el, and throw it into boiling XVJHT till 
 soil, when It must lie put intu cold xx.iter. 
 Clarify some line sii^ar, and hnil it au petit 
 lisse, anil haxin^ drained (lie lem.in-|>eel, 
 |vuir mi i! the sirup (whilst hot); the next 
 day Ixiil the sirup a^aiu, and return it to the 
 peel; (he lliinl and linn llidaxs proceed in 
 tlie same manner, adding a small quantity of 
 clarified sn^'ar; the last time tlie sirup ig 
 boikil, M- M in as it ri.-es to perle, put in 
 the peel, coxer and boil the whole together 
 
 once, and when cold, drain and dry them in 
 
 LEMON PEEL, TO CANDY. Take 
 some lemon-peels, and clean them well from 
 i lie pulp, and let them lay txvo days in salt 
 and xvater; then scald and drain them dry, 
 then boil them in a thin sirup till they look 
 <|itile clear. After which, take them out, 
 and have ready a thick sirup made xxith fine 
 loaf sugar ; put them into it, and simmer 
 them till the sugar-candies about the pan and 
 peels. Then lay them separately on a hair 
 sieve to drain, strew sifted sugar over tliem, 
 and eet tliem to dry in a slow oven. 
 
 LEMOiV PEEL, CARAMEL. Take 
 
 some very dry preserved lemon-|>oel, and 
 cut it into several small square pieces ; piH 
 tltese pieces each on the point of little slick* 
 for this purpose, and dip them into caramel 
 sugar as directed. See chestnuts au car- 
 amel. 
 
 LEMON PEEL SIRUP OF. Take 
 
 five ounces of fresh lemon-peel, put it into a 
 ylass cuciirhite, which has been gradually 
 heated ; pour on them txvo pounds of nearly 
 Ixiilini; xvater; close the vessel very tight, 
 and place it on hot ashes for txvelvc hours; 
 after which, let the infusion run out gently 
 without pressing the peel ; add two pounds 
 of poxvder-sugar, and then boil the whole to 
 grand perle, when about half cold, put in 
 a few drops of spirit of lemon. 
 
 LEMON SWEETMEATS. Take a 
 pound of marchpane paste, and mix it with 
 as many yolks of eggs as will enable you to 
 spread the paste with a knife; add to it a 
 sufficient quantity of grated lemon-peel to 
 impart the flavor required. The whole 
 being well mixed, cut some sheets of wafer 
 (taper into such figures as your fancy may 
 dictate, and spread tile paste over tliem, 
 about a quarter of an inch in thickness; 
 place them on paper, and bake tliem in a 
 HUH lei ate ox-en. If you xx ish to laze your 
 sweetmeats, Ixiil some SUgiir xvilll oranije- 
 tlmver water to la plume, and when they 
 are taken out of the oven, wash them ox'er 
 with the .-irup, which dries almost immedi- 
 ately. 
 
 LEMONS, SIRUP OF. Squeeze aa 
 
 many lemons as will yield alxiul three-quar- 
 ters of a |xinml of juice, taking particular 
 care that tlie peel of every lemon is perfectly 
 found, and that they are none of them in the 
 least degree bitter. Set your juice in tlie 
 cellar tin four days, and then lilicr it through 
 blutiiii^-paper. Break u pound and u half 
 of double-refined -n^.ir inin pieces alwiut an 
 inch square ; put them into a gallon matraas,
 
 MAC 
 
 284 
 
 MAR 
 
 pour the lemon-juice over it, dose the mat- 
 rass with paper, and place it in a liain ma- 
 rie until the sugar is entirely dissolved ; then 
 extinguish your fire, and let the matrass cool 
 gradually ; when cold, add two spoonfuls of 
 spirit of lemons, then bottle it, keep it well 
 corked. 
 
 LEMON WAFERS. Squeeze the juice 
 of six lemons into a basin ; pound and sift 
 some double-refined sugar, and mix it with | 
 the lemon-juice ; put the white of one egg 
 with it, and mix the whole well together 
 with a wooden spoon, to make it of a good 
 consistence ; lake some sheets of wafer-pa- 
 per, and put one sheet of it on a pewter 
 sheet or tin plate; put on it a spoonful of | 
 the preparation, and spread it all over the 
 paper with a knife ; cut it into twelve pieces, I 
 and put them across a stick in a hot stove, 
 with that side the paste is on uppermost, 
 and you will find they will curl ; when they 
 are half curled, take them oft" very care-fully 
 and put them up, endways, in a sieve, that 
 they may stand up ; let them l>e in the hot 
 stove one day, and you will find they will be 
 all curled, and then they are done. 
 
 I 
 
 LIQUORICE PASTE. Scrape and j 
 bruise a quarter of a pound of liquorice-root, ! 
 and boil it in a little water till it is much 
 reduced ; let it stand to settle, and pour it I 
 clear off, and dissolve in it half an ounce 
 of gum-dragon : when thoroughly dissolved, 
 sift it in a linen bag, and mix sugar with it 
 till it is brought to the consistence of :i paste ; 
 then cut it into what flowers or designs you 
 think proper. 
 
 M. 
 
 MACAROONS, SPICED. Take a 
 pound of sweet almonds, and two pounds of 
 sifted sugar; make your paste as usual, to 
 which add a spoonful of powdered cinnamon, 
 six or eight cloves, also pounded, some pre- 
 served lemon and orange-peel (of each a 
 spoonful,) chopped small, and the grated 
 rind of two lemons; mix them all together 
 in the mortar, and then lay your macaroons 
 as usual, and bake them with equal care. 
 
 MACEDOINE OF FRUIT. The 
 
 macedoine is an ornamental dish, composed 
 of transparent jelly, with various fruits en- 
 closed in it; for this purpose it should l>e 
 done as follows: Have a dome-shaped mould 
 six inches and a half in diameter, and four 
 in height, the sides fluted ; the smaller mould 
 must be of a similar firm, but only four inrh- 
 cs and a half in diameter, and two auJ three- 
 quarters high ; to this latter have four bun- 
 dles, bent at the end, to hang it exactly in 
 
 the centre of the larger mould. Prepare a 
 strawlierry transparent jelly, place the larger 
 mould as straight as possible in pounded ice, 
 hang the small one in it, and pour the jelly 
 into the former; whilst it is congealing, 
 pick alxmt twenty fine white strawberries, 
 the same numter of very red ones, the same 
 of white raspberries, a dozen bunches of red, 
 and the same of white currants; wash all 
 these well, but touch them as little as possi- 
 ble, that they may not lose their freshness; 
 when the jelly is perfectly set, pour some 
 hot water into the small mould which will 
 enable you to remove it with ease; raise it 
 with great care, so that the space may be 
 found without the slightest flaw; then place 
 on the jelly (in thj centre of this spare) two 
 hunches of white currants, surround these 
 with a ring of white straw-terries, and the 
 latter with a crown or ring of white rasp- 
 terries; pour over very cart-fully two or 
 three spoonfuls of the jelly, and when that is 
 eonin-aled, proceed in the same way with 
 the red currants, straw terries, and raspber- 
 ries, then the jelly, and so on alternately, 
 until all the fruit is used ; fill the. mould w ith 
 jelly; as soon as ihe whole is congealed, dip 
 your mould into a large saucepan of hot 
 water, and then turn it into a dish instantly. 
 The macedoine may be garnished in this 
 manner \\itli any kind of fruit you think 
 proper. It may also be filled with two jel- 
 lies as follows: white lemon jelly in the 
 large mould, and finished with the same 
 jelly, tinned with eitlier rose-color or yellow ; 
 indeed the moulds may be varied in any way 
 your fancy may dictate. 
 
 MALLOWS, SIRUP OF. Take half 
 a pound of mallows root, and having scrap- 
 ed and washed it wc-ll, cut it into small 
 pieces, which set on the fire with three pints 
 of water; when sufficiently boiled, the wa- 
 ter will te glutinous, strain oft' the decoction, 
 and pour into it four pounds of sugar ; clari- 
 fy it in the same manner as capillaire; boil 
 it to lisse, run it through a jelly-bag, and 
 when cold, bottle it. 
 
 MARASCHINO. Take sixteen poun Is 
 of fine sharp cherries, stone and take off 
 the stalks; put them into five quarts of 
 brandy to infuse, covered close for three 
 days, then distil the infusion; distil also a 
 pound of cherry-leaves in six quarts of filter- 
 ed river water, from which you will obtain 
 about a gallon; dissolve in this four pounds 
 and a half of fine sugar; add it to the li- 
 queur, with two pints and a half of kirschen- 
 wasser, an ounce and four drachms of spirits 
 of rose, the same of orange-flowers, and 
 three drachms of spirits of jessamine; mix 
 them altogether, run it through a jelly-bag, 
 and bottle it; cork them well.
 
 MAR 
 
 285 
 
 MEL 
 
 MARASCHINO, CONSERVE OF. 
 
 Pound and sift some of the best lump sugar, 
 mix it in a china l>;isin with spirit of maras- 
 chino, until it is of the consistence of pastil 
 parte; then put it into a skillet over the fire, 
 and heat il gently, stirring it constantly (but 
 without letting it Ixiil,) till very liquid, when 
 it may lx- |X)iired into funnel-shaped tin 
 moulds ; put tltese moulds on iron plates, 
 and dry the conserve in a stove. 
 
 MARASCHINO ICE CREAM. Take 
 
 two t|iiarl.- nf cream, twelve eggs, a pound 
 of double-refined sugar, and three glasses 
 of true maraschino ; put the cream on to 
 boil, and in the meantime whisk the whites 
 of tl>e eggs to a firm snow, then pour in 
 eight yolks, and the sugar pounded and 
 sifted, stir them together lightlv, and then 
 add by degress the boiling cream, whipping 
 continually ; set it on the fire, and do not 
 cease whipping until it has boiled up three 
 or four times; pour it through a sieve into 
 a basin, .-.lining a little to enable it to run 
 more freely; when cold put it into the sor- 
 betiere with the maraschino; cover it in- 
 stantly, ami ice it ad usual. 
 
 MARCHPANE. Take four pounds of 
 sweet alnn'ii'!?-, throw them into boiling 
 water, let them lay till the skin loosens, 
 then put them into cold water, after a few 
 minutes Uanch anil throw them again into 
 cold water to wash them thoroughly. When 
 dry, pound them (a handful at a time) to a 
 very tine paste, moistening each handful 
 with two spoonfuls of water; the whole 
 quantity of almonds being pounded, put the 
 paste into a large preserving pan, with (our 
 pounds of the l>est lump sugar finely |xiuud- 
 ed and silled ; set the pan on a coal fire, 
 stir and work them up together with a 
 idcn spatula, rather sharp at the 
 bottom: Ix- very can-fill that none of the 
 paste adheres to the pan ; the consequence 
 of such neglect would Ix-, that the march- 
 pane woiiM lie spotted with yellow, and 
 would smell unpleasantly. Whilst winking 
 it up, ihc |;:i-tc, which when put in was 
 tolerably (inn, will become rather liquid, 
 and a great deal of vajior may be olwerved ; 
 the tii>i is caused by the sugar dissolved by 
 the heat and inoi-ttire, the second by tlie 
 eva|x>ration of the water. Continue to stir 
 mid work it up in this manner without 
 ceasing for two hours, and if at the end of 
 that time, \ou can toueh the paste without 
 it* adhering to your tiogi-rs, it is .-ufhcicntlv 
 dried; in which case lemovc it all to one 
 aide of the pan, clean the Ixittom and side 
 of the other, sprinkle it well wilh flour, then 
 put the pa.-ti- to that pait, clean and .-prin- 
 kle that .-!.< also; then lake the pan by 
 both cars and move it round and round, so 
 
 that the paste may all unite together; as 
 soon as it has done so, put it into a sheet of 
 paper, or, if you want to use it immediate- 
 ly, on a well (loured table. This paste, if 
 the almonds he well pounded and then thor- 
 oughly dried, will keep good for six months; 
 if these two precautions are. not properly 
 attended to, it will become sour in ten days. 
 
 MARIGOLDS, CONSERVE OF. Take 
 (bur ounces of marigold-flowers, conserve of 
 hyacinth and hermes, of each four drachms, 
 the powder of pearl two ounces, and as 
 much sirup of citron as will make them into 
 a conserve, mixing and bruising them to- 
 gether with refined sugar. 
 
 MARJORAM CONSERVE. Take 
 
 the tops and tenderest part of sweet marjo- 
 ram, bruise it well in a wooden mortar or 
 bowl; take double its weight of fine sugar, 
 boil it with marjoram-water till it is as 
 thick as sirup, then put in your beaten mar- 
 joram. 
 
 MARSEILLES, OR GINGER. Take 
 
 a pound and a half of double-refined sugar, 
 and boil it to fort souffle, add to it an 
 ounce of ginger in powder, remove the pan 
 from the fire, and with a round stick (like 
 a plain round rule) stir the sugar, inclining 
 the stick towards the sides of the pan, then 
 with a spoon take the sugar that sticks to 
 the edges and put it amongst the liquid, then 
 work it up again with the stick, remove the 
 solid sugar as l*fore, and repeat this opera- 
 tion tour times,, when it will have become tole- 
 rably thick and firm ; pour it into paper cases, 
 about half an inch thick, and with a fork 
 trace on its surface, whilst warm, lozenges 
 of what size you please; afterwards, with 
 the point of a knife, mark some of these 
 deeper than the others; when quite cold, 
 take them out of the papers, and separate 
 them, where the lines are deepest. The 
 Marseilles, if preserved in a warm or dry 
 place, will keep good for a long time. 
 
 MARSEILLES SPICED. Take a 
 |xuind and a half of fine sugar, boil it to 
 caste; take a quarter of preserved orange- 
 peel, the same of candied lcmon-|icel, (or, 
 if you like it better, two ounces of blanched 
 pistachio nuts), cut them into dice, and put 
 them with half an ounce of cloves, the same 
 of cinnamon (Ixilh pounded) into the sugar, 
 stir them in gently, continue to boil your 
 sirup to forte plume; then lx?at it up, pour 
 it into i a.-e.-, and finish as the Marseilles. 
 
 MI'.l.o.NS, TO PRESERVE LIKE 
 < I V 1 1 .U. Half a |xniinl of ginger to one 
 pound of melon; scrape the ginger, and 
 save the scraping*; pour a quart of boiling
 
 MIN 
 
 286 
 
 MYR 
 
 water on the ginger, let it stand two days: 
 scald the melon (with the scrapings of the 
 ginger in the water), t:iking care not to 
 make it too soft: cut it into small pieces 
 resembling ginger; then prepare a simp, 
 half a pound of sugar to a pint of water; 
 boil the ginger in it; when cold, put in the 
 melon, and set it over the fire for a short 
 time, but not to boil; let the sirup, with 
 the ginger, be boiled every day for a fort- 
 night, but not poured upon the melon till 
 nearly cold; then boil a rich sirup to keep 
 it in. 
 
 N. B. Carrot is equally good with melon. 
 
 MERINGUES. (1) Whisk the whites of 
 nine eggs to a solid froth; then add the rind 
 of six lemons, grated extremely fine, and a 
 spoonful of silted sugar; after which, lay a 
 sheet of wet paper on a tin, and with a 
 spoon drop the mixture in little lumps, 
 separately upon it, sift sugar over, and put 
 them to "take in a moderately heated oven, 
 taking care that they are done of a nice 
 color. Then put raspl>erry, apricot, or any 
 other kind of jam lietween two of these bot- 
 toms, add them together, and lay them in 
 a warm place, or before the fire to dry. 
 
 MERINGUES. (2) Take the whites 
 of twelve eggs, six ounces of the best lump 
 sugar, pounded and sifled, and half a pound 
 of pistachios; blanch and beat the latter in 
 a mortar, with a little while of egg, to a 
 very fine paste. Whl.sk the whites of eggs 
 to a snow, then add the sugar, and pista- 
 chio paste, mix them well, but very lightly, 
 and when they are thoroughly incorporated, 
 put some sheets of paper ifn tin plates, lay 
 your preparation on the pa|>er, with a spoon, 
 lay the meringues, at least an inch apart; 
 sprinkle sifted sugar over them, and put 
 them into a moderate oven or stove ; when 
 done, detach them gently from the paper 
 with a knife, and place them on a sieve in 
 a dry place. Just before they are sent to 
 table, fill each with a little whipped cream, 
 to which add a small quantity of either 
 orange-flower, rose, or vanilla water. 
 
 MILK PUNCH. Pare six oranges, and 
 six lemons, as thin as you possibly can, 
 grate them after with sugar to obtain the 
 flavor. Steep the peels in a bottle of rum 
 or brandy, stopped close for four and twenty 
 hours. Squeeze the fruit on two pounds of 
 migar, add four quarts of water to it, and 
 one quart of new milk, boiling hot; stir the 
 rum into the above, and run it through a 
 jelly-bag until it is quite clear: bottle and 
 cork it close immediately. 
 
 MINT, DISTILLED LIQUEUR OF. 
 Take two handfuls of fresh gathered garden 
 
 f mint, and infuse it for some days in a gallon 
 and a half of brandy, and a quart of water ; 
 then distil it as usual. Dissolve three 
 pounds and a half of sugar in seven pints of 
 water, mix the sirup with the liqueur, and 
 run the whole through a jelly bag. 
 
 MINT WATER. Take four pounds of 
 dried mint, two gallons and a half of proof 
 spirits, and three gallons of water; distil 
 them, and sweeten the water with a pound 
 and a half of sugar. 
 
 MIRLITONS. Put into a pan two 
 yolks, and two whole eggs, four ounces of 
 powder-sugar, three ounces of sweet maca- 
 roons crushed, half an ounce of crisped 
 orange-flowers in powder, and a grain of 
 salt; stir these together a minute, then add 
 two ounces of melted butter; whip the two 
 whites very firm, and put them also to the 
 preparation. Line thirty tartlet moulds with 
 puff-paste, into each of which pour an equal 
 quantity of the above; cover them with 
 sifted sugar, and when that is di.->i>lved, 
 strew over a little sugar, a la grele; and 
 put them into a moderate oven : serve eithet 
 hot or cold. 
 
 MULBERRIES, SIRUP OF. Take 
 
 as many mulberries as will yielil three pints 
 of juice, which put into a preserving pan 
 with three pints of water; boil until this 
 quantity is reduced to one pint; then lay the 
 fruit on a sieve to drain. Clarify throe 
 pounds of sugar, boil it to bouille; then add 
 the mulberry -juice; give them one boil, and 
 skim them. Pour the sirup into a pan, and 
 let it stand ; when col.l, bottle it. 
 
 MUSK, TO PREPARE FOR LI- 
 QUEURS. Take two grains of musk and 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar, pound them 
 in a mortar and mix them well; keep it in 
 a closely stopped bottle. The quantity re- 
 quired of this is one pinch to four or five 
 quarts of liqueur. Amliergris is prepared 
 in a similar manner, but being less powerful 
 than the musk, four grains is the proportion 
 to a quarter of a pound of sugar. 
 
 MYRTLE, OIL OF. Put two ounces 
 of peach leaves, and the half of a nutmeg, 
 bruised, into six quarts of brandy; distil 
 from this in a bain marie alembic your li- 
 queur, in which, infuse half a pound of myr- 
 tle flowers for four days. Dissolve five 
 pounds of sugar in three quarts of pure river 
 water; the moment it begins to boil, take it 
 from the fire, and let it cool; take the myr- 
 tle flowers from the liqueur, and put in the 
 sugar ; mix them well, color it with tincture 
 of saffron, strain and bottle it.
 
 NUT 
 
 237 
 
 ORA 
 
 N. 
 
 NONPAREIL. Poppy seeds sugared in 
 the manner directed under the articles Su- 
 gared Seeds, are called Nonpareils; 
 they ait- tiii^'fil of different colors, by the in- 
 troduction of the various coloring materials 
 into the sugar with which they are cov- 
 ered. 
 
 NOUGAT. Blanch and wash a pound 
 .ilinonds, and having drained them 
 well, rut each into tive slips, which place in 
 a gentle oven to dry ; let them be all equally 
 coloii-d of a clear y< How; in tile meantime, 
 put three-quarters of a pound of fine sugar 
 into a preserving pan, set it on a stove, 
 siimns; with a wooden spoon until com- 
 pletely dissol\ed ; then take tlie almonds out 
 of the oven, and whilst hot throw them into 
 the liquid suyai ; mix them together well. 
 :;.ould well oiled, of any shape 
 you think proper, in the interior of which 
 plaee the slips of almond?, hv means of lem- 
 on-juice, when the whole is covered, remove 
 tin; mould carefully, and serve the Nougat. 
 
 NOYAU, ENGLISH. Two gallons of 
 gin, two pounds of bitter almonds, one pound 
 of sweet almonds, both beaten to a fine paste ; 
 six IMHIII Is of lump sugar, pounded (gome of 
 it with the almonds.) Let these stand ten 
 days in the gin, (hen filler it through blotting 
 paper, and bottle it. 
 
 M T BONBONS. Boil a pound of 
 Spani.-h nuts; when they are well boiled, 
 rub off their skin with a napkin, if some 
 stick too hard, pare it off with a knife; 
 nr nuts very fine on a sheet of pa- 
 |.er ; then take a pound of powdered sugar 
 to a pound of nuts, put it in a pun over a 
 slow fire; when your sugar is all melted 
 ( yii must stir it constantly with a wooden 
 E|xx>n) put your nuts in, and work them well 
 till all is well mixed, and pour it upon a tin 
 plate; then spread it with a rolling pin, this 
 must be done very quickly, as it cools very 
 fast ; when it is cold, cut it into what form 
 you please ; you must take care the sugar is 
 not loo much melted, for it is very apt to 
 soften when die nuts are added to it. 
 
 N I TS PRALLNED. Take a pound 
 of Spanish nuts, take them out of their 
 shells, and put them into a pan, with a 
 pound of loaf sugar, and a little water; let 
 them boil till they begin to sparkle; then 
 take them off tlie fire, and stir them well 
 with a wooden spoon, till you perceive tlie 
 sugar turns gravelly; then set them again 
 
 over a slow fire, to dissolve tlie sugar; keep 
 stirring, that the sugar may stick to (he nuts, 
 and when you see them turn reddish, and 
 are well covered with sugar, take them off, 
 pour tin-in into a sieve, cover them with a 
 clean cloth, and put them into a stove; this 
 will preserve their gloss. 
 
 NUTMEGS TO CANDY. Take a 
 
 pound and a half of double refined sugar, 
 half a quarter of a pint of damask rose-wa- 
 ter, and a very little gum arabic; boil these 
 to a candy height ; let your nutmegs be first 
 soaked in water; then put them into an 
 earthen pan, pour your candy to them, keep 
 them \ery close covered, set tliem in a warm 
 place for about three weeks, and they will 
 be of a rock candy. 
 
 O. 
 
 OIL OF JUPITER. Take three quarts 
 of spirits of wine, flavored with essential oil 
 of lemon, the same quantity flavored with 
 spirit of cccli ;it ; make a sirup with seven 
 pounds of sugar, a gallon of water, and two 
 liottles of Scubac; mix the whole together, 
 and by stirring, it will become thick; to 
 clarify it, take the whites of two eggs in 
 about a pint of the liqueur, and afterwards 
 put it to the whole; stir it; then put it into 
 a still in the bain marie moderately heated ; 
 let it remain for twelve hours ; filter tlie pro- 
 duce of your distillation, and bottle it. 
 
 OIL OF VENUS. Reduce the follow- 
 ing articles to an impalpable, powder: an 
 ounce of skirrel seeds, an ounce of caraway 
 seeds, an ounce of anise seeds, a drachm 
 and a half of mace, and the rind of an or- 
 .nr..-e; infuse these for five days in a gallon 
 of brandy, then distil from it in a bain ma- 
 rie, two quarts of liqueur; dissolve over 
 tlie fire four pounds of sugar in two quarts 
 of pure water; when cold, mix it with the 
 distilled liquevr, and color it of a clear yel- 
 low, with a little tincture of saffron; filler 
 and bottle it ; seal (he corks. 
 
 ORANGES IN BRANDY. Choose 
 the oranges very round and smooth, pare, 
 prick tin-in in the middle, and put them into 
 cold water; then blanch them in boiling 
 water; when tliey are tender, throw them 
 anain into cold water; in a short time give 
 them ne\en or eight boils in sugar, a la pe- 
 tite nappe, skim, and let them stand till 
 next day, when the same process must be 
 gone through; skim them again, then put 
 (hem into hollies, pour over them equal 
 quantities of sirup and water; lake care to 
 cork them well.
 
 ORA 
 
 288 
 
 ORA 
 
 ORANGE, COMPOTE. Cut them 
 in small pieces, and boil them !n wa- 
 ter until they are tender, then change them 
 into cold water; next make a simp with 
 one glass of water and four ounces of sugar, 
 and put in the fruit; let it simmer gently 
 over a slow fire for half an hour ; serve cold. 
 
 ORANGE, CROQUE EN BOU- 
 CHES OF. Pare a dozen fine oranges, 
 and divide each into twelve pieces, all of 
 the same size ; scrape off every particle of 
 the white, without breaking the thin skin 
 which contains the juice ; when all are done, 
 dip each piece into some sugar boiled to 
 casse (and lightly colored,) and place them 
 in a plain mould of six inches diameter, and 
 five in height ; the first row inclined one way, 
 the second the reverse way, and so on ; lay 
 them at the bottom in a slar. As soon as 
 the mould is full, turn it out, and serve it 
 with all possible expedition, as the moisture 
 of the fruit dissolves the sugar so rapidly, 
 that the croque en bouche is liable to fall 
 to pieces. 
 
 ORANGE CAKES. Divide the or- 
 anges in half, take out the seeds, and put 
 the pulp and juice into a basin ; boil the 
 rinds in a saucepan of water, closely cover- 
 ed; when very tender take them out, and 
 dry them upon a cloth ; allow to a pound of 
 orange rinds, two of pounded loaf sugar; 
 pound the rinds in a mortar; add by degrees 
 the sugar, and then the juice and pulp; mix 
 it thoroughly till thick and yellow, drop it 
 upon tins in small cakes, and dry them un- 
 der garden glasses, or in a cool oven. If 
 it be too thick to drop, let it stand a night. 
 
 ORANGE SHERBET. Dissolve a 
 pound and half of sugar in a quart of very 
 pure water; take nine fine oranges and two 
 lemons; wipe them well with a napkin, and 
 having grated the most fragrant rinds, squeeze 
 on them the juice of these fruits; sweeten 
 this juice with the above sirup, run the whole 
 through a close hair sieve, and finish in 
 the usual way. (See Sherbet.) 
 
 ORANGE SHRUB. Put ten pounds 
 of crushed sugar to two gallons of water, 
 and boil it until the sugar be dissolved ; skim 
 it well, and put it into a tub; when quite 
 cold, pour it into a barrel ; add three quarts 
 of Jamaica rum, and six quarts of orange- 
 juice (take care there are no pips.) Beat 
 up the white of an egg, mix it with the 
 shrub, and let it stand for a week ; then 
 draw it off* and bottle it. 
 
 ORANGE SUGAR. Rasp on a piece 
 of sugar the rinds of the l>est oranges, but 
 so lightly that not a particle of tlie white is 
 
 mixed with it; scrape off the surface of tlie 
 sugar as it Incomes colored, and continue 
 this operation until you have as much sugar 
 as you require; then lay it in a stove, or at 
 tlie mouth of the oven to dry ; when it is 
 perfectly so, pass it through a very fine 
 sieve. Lemons and cedrats may be grated, 
 and the sugar dried in the same manner. 
 
 9RANGES, GREEN. Scrape out the 
 insides of the oranges quite clean, then let 
 them lie for three days in cold water, chang- 
 ing the water daily, then boil them very 
 slowly till the water is bitter; then put 
 them into other boiling water, set them by; 
 repeating this daily till all the bitterness is 
 extracted: make a rich sirup of the last 
 water they are boiled in, with Lisbon sugar; 
 when cold, put them in; the next day boil 
 them in the sirup; repeat this till they are 
 green and tender; cover with brandy-paper. 
 
 ORANGE, WATER ICE. Take off 
 the rind of two Seville oranges, very fine 
 and thin ; squeeze the juice into a basin 
 with one lemon ; add half a pint of sirup, 
 and half a pint of water; pass diem through 
 a sieve, and freeze them rich. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER CONSERVE. 
 
 Boil half a pound of clarified sugar to grande 
 plume, take it from the fire, and pour into 
 it a dessert spoonful of orange-Mower water; 
 stir them together well, set the mixture on 
 the fire, and when warm, pour it into shal- 
 low paper-cases; let it cool, and then cut it 
 into cakes of any form you please. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER PASTILS. Pul- 
 verise a good pinch of dried orange-flowers; 
 pound them with gum-dragon, previously 
 dissolved in one glass of plain, and the 
 same quantity of orange-flower water; add 
 a sufficient proportion of powder-sugar, to 
 make the paste of the requisite consistence, 
 which form according to your taste into 
 cones, lozenges, &c. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER PRALINES. 
 
 Take a pound of very fresh white orange- 
 flowers, pick, and throw them into cold 
 water; clarify, and boil two pounds of sugar 
 to touffle, then put in the flowers; stir 
 them with a spatula, until your sugar re- 
 gains the degree of souffle; take the pan 
 from the fire, and continue stirring till the 
 sugar is separated from the (lowers, and be- 
 comes a powder; set it in a stove to dry, 
 then set the whole on a sieve, that the sugar 
 may run through and leave the flowers, 
 which put into bottles. If preserved in a 
 dry place they will keep for twelve months. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWERS SIRUP. Clar-
 
 ORG 
 
 289 
 
 ORG 
 
 ify and boil four pounds of sugar to perle, 
 then add three-<|u;irters of a pound of frcsli 
 orange-flowers picked, and lx>il them once; 
 then take the pan from the fire, and let it 
 eland for two hour.-', after which, replace, it 
 on the fire ; when it has had aliout a dozen 
 boilings, pour it through a sieve into anoth- 
 er saucepan, boil the sirup to line, and 
 put it aside; when quite cold, bottle it. 
 The flowers may l>e used as follows: put 
 ihein into jxiwder-sugar, with which nib 
 them well with your hands, till quite dry, 
 then sift and put them in a stove. 
 
 <:I:AN<;F.-FLOWER WATER. Pm 
 
 in!.' a still ten pounds of fresh gathered or- 
 ange-flouers, and six quarts of pure river 
 water; lake particular care to close up all 
 the apertures of the still perfectly, and set it 
 on a moderate tire, that the ebullition may 
 not be too strong ; be particular in cooling 
 it fn-qtieiitly, or, at least, whenever the wa- 
 ter in the boiler becomes too warm, change 
 it, and put in fresh; much depends on the 
 attention paid to this part of the operation. 
 From the above quantity, three quarts of 
 Orange-Bower water may !* drawn. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER DOUBLE 
 WATER. Draw four quarts of orange- 
 flovver water from six quarts distilled as 
 above; put to this water the ?ame quantity 
 of fresh (lowers, distil it in the same manner, 
 and it will yield five pints. 
 
 ORANGE PEEL TO CANDY. Take 
 
 some orange peel, and let it soak in .-ive- 
 ral waters till it has lost its bitten 
 lioil it in a solution of double-refined su- 
 gar in water, till it becomes tender and 
 
 tiansjjarent. 
 
 ORANGE PEEL TO PRESEUVK. 
 
 Cut the oranges in halves, take out the pulp, 
 put the peel in strong salt and spring water, 
 to soak for three days, repeat this three 
 times, then put them on a sieve to dry; 
 take one pound of loaf sugar, add to it one 
 quart of spring water, lx>il it, skim it until 
 quite clear; let tlie peels simmer until they 
 are quite trans|Kiivni; dry them before the 
 fire; take loaf-sugar, with just sufficient 
 water to dissolve it; whilst the sugar is 
 boiling, put in the peels, stirring continually 
 until all the sugar is candied round them, 
 then put them to dry either before the fire 
 or in an oven, and when |>crfectly dried, 
 put them by for use. 
 
 ORGEAT. Blanch a pound of sweet, 
 and twenty-four bitter almonds ; pound them 
 to an exceedingly fine paste, adding water 
 25 
 
 occasionally to prevent their oiling ; mix a 
 gallon of water, two pounds of sugar and 
 orange-flower water, with this paste; beat 
 them together for some time ; then strain it 
 two or three times through a jully-bag, stir- 
 ring it with a spatula, and serve it in de- 
 canters. 
 
 ORGEAT PASTE. Pound the almonds 
 with a little orange-flower water to a fine 
 paste, and Uien work up with it an equal 
 weight of powder-sugar. This paste uill 
 keep a long while, and by dissolving a small 
 portion of it in water, and straining it, or- 
 geat may be prepared very quickly. An 
 ounce of the paste is sufficient for half a 
 pint of water. 
 
 ORGEAT SIRUP. Take a pound and 
 
 a half of sweet, and half a pound of bitter 
 almonds, throw them into boiling water, and 
 leave them till the skins ean be removed 
 with ease, then throw them into cold water 
 for a minute before you blanch them, after 
 which, they must again lie put into cold 
 water; then pound them, a few at a time, 
 in a marble mortar, adding occasionally 
 some water to prevent their oiling ; when 
 all are beaten to a very fine paste, dilute this 
 with the greater |iarl of a quart of water, 
 (of which reserve six ounces) ; put the 
 paste into a Strong cloth; squee/.e am! wring 
 out all the milk from the almonds, put the 
 latter into (he mortar, and pound them 
 again, adding by degrees the remainder of 
 the water, and then squeeze these also in a 
 cloth ; |xmr the whole of this milk into a 
 nougli to contain, at least, 
 one-third more liquid, add to it two pounds 
 of lump-sugar, and a pint of orange-flower 
 water; cork the matrass tight, and set it 
 on a bain marie; wlien die sugar is com- 
 pletely dissolved, (which should be accelera- 
 ted b\ .-hakins tht! matrass occasionally), les- 
 sen the fire by degrees, and as soon as the 
 r <]ite cold, put the sirup into bottles. 
 
 If yon should have no matrass, you may 
 make your sirup in the following manner: 
 boil the above mentioned quantity of sugar 
 to forte plume, then add the milk of al- 
 monds, and as soon as it has boiled up twice, 
 take it from the fire; when cold, flavor it 
 with a pint of orange-flower water. 
 
 Or this sirup may be made in a still more 
 simple way, 'as thus: put the milk of al- 
 moinis into some pounded sugar, without 
 lieing clarified or boiled previously; when 
 the simp !>egins to boil, add alxmt a coflfee- 
 cupful of orange-flower water, and after it 
 has boiled tip two or three times, take it 
 from the fire; let it get quite cold before 
 you bottle it. Keep it well corked.
 
 PAS 
 
 290 
 
 PEA 
 
 P. 
 
 PARFAIT AMOUR. Take four very 
 fine fresh cedrats, p;ire them very thin, and 
 infuse them with half an ounce of fine cinna- 
 mon, and four ounces of coriander, in three 
 gallons of strong brandy, and a quart of wa- 
 ter, for a week or ten days, when distil it 
 in the bain marie; this quantity of brandy, 
 if good, will yield two gallons and half a 
 pint of spirit. Dissolve three pounds and a 
 half of sugar in seven pints of river water, 
 color it with cochineal, then add it to the 
 spirit, filter, and bottle it. 
 
 PASTILLES. To make these articles, 
 it is necessary to have a small copper stew- 
 pan that will hold about a pint, rather deep 
 than wide, with a pointed lip on die right 
 side, and a tolerably long handle, also two 
 pieces of wood, one about eighteen inches 
 long, and four in diameter, called the bois 
 a tabeller, the other about half the length, 
 one inch in diameter, and the lower emi, 
 pointed so that it will exactly fit the lip of 
 the pan ; this is called the bois a egoutter; 
 six or eight tin plates about the size of a 
 sheet of letter-paper. 
 
 For the best pastilles, take a pound of 
 double-refined sugar reduced to an impalpa- 
 ble powder; sift it through a tammy on a 
 sheet of white paper, put four or five spoon- 
 fuls of this sugar into your pan, pour on it a 
 little orange-flower water, and beat it well 
 with the larger stick, until the preparation 
 is sufficiently thin to run from the stick 
 without being clear; if it be so, more sugar 
 must be added. Put the pan over a chafing- 
 dish filled with live coals, and let it stand 
 (stirring constantly) till it boils; then take 
 it off I he chafing-d'ish, add two more spoon- 
 fuls of sugar, work it up well, scrape away 
 whatever sugar adheres to the stick, set it 
 aside, and take the smaller stick in your 
 right hand, hold the pan in your left (slant- 
 ing) over one of the tin-plates; the sugar 
 will, by these means, flow to the lip, then 
 strike the point of the stick into the lip of 
 the pan, which action will separate the 
 liquid, so that each time the stick strikes 
 the lip a single drop of the preparation will 
 fall on the tin; a little practice will be ne- 
 cessarv before this operation can be perform- 
 ed neatly. As soon as all your sugar, &c. 
 is used," replenish the pan and proceed as 
 above directed, until you have as many 
 pastilles as you may require. When cold 
 and hard, remove them from the tins with 
 your hand, and keep them in boxes in a 
 dry place. You may, if you please, color 
 the pastilles, taking care to perfume them 
 with a corresponding odour. 
 
 PASTILLES, COMMON. These are 
 made in the same manner as the best sort, 
 the difference consists in the materials, 
 (which are a quarter of a pound of powder 
 to three-quarters of a pound of sugar) and 
 the perfumes are omitted . 
 
 PASTILLAGES. Put two ounces of 
 well-washed gum dragon into an earthen 
 pan, with as much clear hot water as will 
 cover it, lay a sheet of paper to keep out 
 the dust, and let it stand twenty-four hours ; 
 then squeeze it through a coarse cloth into 
 a marble mortar, and add to it as much 
 starch ;uid sugar (both in powder) as the 
 gum water will contain ; |xtmid these ingre- 
 dients well, and strain them through a tammy 
 into a pan which keep covered with a damp 
 cloth. This pastillage is used to form the 
 ornamental parts of pastry and confection- 
 ary, such as temples, baskets, &c., and may 
 be tinged of the requisite shades, by mix- 
 ing with it any of the coloring materials. 
 
 PEACHES IN A COMPOTE. Cut 
 
 your peaches in half, t.^ke out the stones, 
 peel them, then set them on the fire in a 
 sugar-pan, with a sufficient quantity of thick 
 clarified sugar to cover them, and let them 
 simmer in this gently till done; then take 
 them out in a basin, put in the kernels to 
 the sugnr, and let it boil until tolerably thick ; 
 put in the juice of two or three lemons, and 
 pour the sirup over the peaches; serve them 
 in a deep hot dish. 
 
 PEARS IN BRANDY. Take some 
 beurre pears, not too ripe, put them into a 
 saucejxtn with a smTicient quantity of water 
 to cover them, set them on the fire, and let 
 them .simmer, but not boil, until the pears 
 will yield to the pressure of your finger; 
 then change them into cold water; pare 
 them with the greatest care, so that not a 
 single spot may remain ; prick, and put them 
 again on the fire in fresh water and the juice 
 of a lemon; let them boil very fast. As 
 soon as tle pears are soft enough for the 
 head of a pin to penetrate them easily, take 
 them out carefully with a skimmer, and lay 
 them in cold water. In the meantime, hav- 
 ing boiled your sugar to lisse, pour the 
 boiling sirup on the pears, (previously 
 drained from the water,) and leave them. 
 The next day drain off the sirup, boil it to 
 la nappe, then put in the pears, give them 
 a boil also; proceed in die same manner on 
 the third day, after which, drain die fruk, 
 and put it into bottles. Boil up the sirup a 
 few more times, let it cool, and then ^>our 
 on it some brandy, (three-fourths of die 
 quantity of the sirup;) run die mixture 
 through a bag, put it to the pears, and cork 
 the bottles well.
 
 P IS 
 
 291 
 
 P LU 
 
 PEARS CANDIED. Are done like 
 apricots. 
 
 PEARS, COMPOTE OF. Take some 
 good sized pears, cut them in halves, ami 
 put ilimi into boiling water; when soft, 
 change them intci cold water, in which 
 squeeze a little lemon-juice. Boil some 
 clarified sugar, drain (lie fruit well from the 
 water, and then put them into the simp; i 
 boil together until the pears are su!jicj.<iifry 
 .iin, and place them in the compo- 
 tier. A little Burgundy wine and prewired 
 cochineal will give the compote a red color. 
 
 IT, \K .MARMALADE. Take sis 
 pounds of small |eais and lour pound- of 
 Minar ; put the jicars into a saucepan with 
 ii little, water, .-et it on the tire; when the 
 fruit is soft, take them out, pate, quarter, 
 and core th ..... ; as ym do tills, llnow each 
 piece into C"lci water, in another .-.incepan, 
 and when all are (lone, set them on the lire. 
 As soon a.- they are sufficiently soft, nil) 
 them tlnoiiuli having in the 
 
 meantime clarified and loiled tli. 
 petit lisse, pour the sirup to the pnlp,.-et it 
 on tlie tire, and ~t\r them together until the 
 marmalade is of the proper con-i-lence : 
 tlien take it otV, put it into pots, and when 
 Cold, tie them down. 
 
 I'i:i;>IC\. Cut about one hundred 
 peach leaves, put them into a wide-mouthed 
 bottle, |x>nr on them a quart of the l>cst 
 brandy, cork it close; in three week.- Mi am 
 it off, and put to it an equal quantity of ca- 
 pillaire. It is good in custards, puddings, 
 and ..- a liijumr. 
 
 I'lM! AITI.K CHIPS. Pare and 
 
 trim a pine-apple, divide, and slice each 
 half into pieces a quarter of an inch thick ; 
 take half the weight of the fruit ill powdcr- 
 su^ai : lay the .-lice- in a lia.-in, with suifar 
 iii-tween; let it stand till the .-ujj.ir 
 Ived, then .-,-t it on a model ale liie 
 to simmer till the chips be quite clear, when 
 set it In. The next day remove all flu- 
 sh-up from the slice?, place them on glasses, 
 and dry them in a gentle oven. 
 
 TIM: APPI.F. IN \ 
 Turn off the rind of a pine, cut it in .-lice-, 
 but not too thin; have some sugar on the 
 fire in a sugar-pan, into which put the slices 
 of pine, anil let them boil gently till the simp 
 is tolcraMy thick, then take out the pine, 
 and lay it on a dish; mix with the .-near, 
 the jnice of a couple of lemons, and pout it 
 over the pine. 
 
 PISTACHIO MAKCHPANE. Put a 
 pound and a half of pUlaclnoa into a mortar, 
 
 pound them, moistening with white of egg, 
 to a very fine paste; in the meantime clari- 
 fy the same quantity of sugar, Ixiil it to petit 
 boule; then take the |>an from the fire, put 
 in the pi.-lachios, Mir them together well, 
 replace the pan on hot ashes, continually 
 stirring, till the paste is of a proper consis- 
 tence, then pour it on a slab well sprinkled 
 with sugar; as soon as it is cold, cut it into 
 whatever firms your fancy may dictate. 
 
 PLF.MS. l\ I',KA\])V. Take twelve 
 pounds of fine magnum bonum plums, and 
 three pounds of sugar; the fruit should be 
 turned in color, but notri|M>; prick, and put 
 them into a saucepan witJi cold water, set 
 them on the lire; when the water boil- and 
 the plums rise, lake them out carefully with 
 a skimmer and put them into a pan of (old 
 water; clarifv and bod the sugar to petit 
 lisse, put the plums to it, and give them a 
 boil; the two succeeding (lavs, drain off 
 and boil the sirup, first alone, and aftcr- 
 wanis with the fruit; the third day drain 
 the plums, and put them into Uittles; then 
 boil the sirup lo la nappe, and when cold, 
 add to it three-loin ths of its quantity of the 
 Ix-st brandy, stir it well, strain and |xnir the 
 mixture over the plums. Cork the littles 
 tight. (lYeen-iiaije plums are done like 
 apricots. (See slpricots in Brandy.) 
 
 PLUMS CANDIED. Choose your 
 fruit of a nice shape and good si/e; cut 
 them in halves, lay them on a lame .-hallow 
 di>h, strew |)vvder-sii^ar over, and put 
 them into a moderate oven, tightly closed; 
 in half an hour's time, take llieni out. and 
 place the plums (.ne by one on glass plates 
 to dry. 
 
 PI.IMS, CI.r.AR CAKES OF. Fill 
 ajar with the white pear plums, yet it in a 
 . an of boiling water on the lire ; w hen 
 snlticiently done, let the clear juice run 
 from it, and to every pint of it, add an equal 
 quantity of siiijar, 1 mi led to candy heiyht ; 
 put the juice to the sirup, set it on the lire, 
 and keep stirring it till the whole is quite 
 hot, but not Ixiiling ; then (xuir it into glass- 
 es, and dry the cakes in a stove. 
 
 PI.IMS, M.\I;M U.AIU: OF. 
 
 -i\ pounds of plums, and four pounds of 
 sugar; stone, and put the fruit into a cul- 
 lender, U-at it through with a wooden pe.-tle 
 
 into a preMrving-pan, which set on the fire, 
 
 to dry the pulp, -tii riiu i' constantly. In 
 the meantime, clarify ;uid IMIJ! the -uyar to 
 petit caste, then mix it with the fruit (.-till 
 on die lire,) stir it till the whole is of the 
 consistence of jelly, then take it off, and 
 pour the marmalade into pots. 
 
 If the plums are not quite ripe, they must
 
 POM 
 
 292 
 
 POU 
 
 be boiled once or twice before they are 
 pressed through the cullender. Some of 
 the kernels may be added, if approved; 
 they should be pounded before putting in the 
 marmalade. 
 
 PLUMS PRESERVED, DRY. Gath- 
 er die plums when full grown and just turn- 
 ing color, pi ick and put them into a saucepan 
 of cold water, set them on the fire until the 
 water is on the point of boiling; then take 
 them out, drain and boil them well in some 
 clarified sugar, let them settle, and then boil 
 diem again ; if they shrink and will not take 
 the sugar, prick them as they lay in the pan, 
 and then give them another boil, Siiim and 
 set them by: the next day, add some more 
 sugar, boiled to souffle, to the fruit, and 
 sirup, then do them together; place them 
 in a stove till next day, when drain the 
 plums from the sirup, sprinkle a little pow- 
 der-sugar over, and dry them in a stove. 
 
 PLUMS, PRESERVED LIQUID. 
 
 Gather the plums green, firm, and when the 
 etone may be extracted with ease, cut the 
 Btalks close, and prick the fruit in several 
 places, especially round the stalk ; then 
 place them in a saucepan of water over the 
 fire, and as soon as the water is ready to 
 boil, take the saucepan from the fire ; in 
 four-and-twenty hours, replace the plums in 
 the same water on a gentle fire, with a small 
 quantity of verjuice to preserve their color. 
 Keep the water hot, without allowing it to 
 boil, for three hours, stirring it occasional- 
 ly ; when the fruit is perfectly green, increase 
 die heat till the plums rise to the surface, 
 when they must be taken out and thrown 
 into cold water, which change frequently till 
 die plums are perfectly cold, then drain 
 diem. Put the fruit in some sugar boiled to 
 la nappe, boil them up a few times, adding 
 a little water; skim, and dien pour the 
 whole into a pan ; the next two days, drain 
 off the sirup, and increase the degree of 
 boiling each day ; the third and fourth days, 
 boil die fruit with the sirup, keeping them 
 covered, and increasing the degree, until the 
 last time, it reaches to perle. Put the 
 preserve into pots, and place them for two 
 days in a stove. 
 
 The same fruit may be preserved dry 
 also. The operation is die same, but die 
 sirup is drained off, and die plums laid on 
 tin plates before they are put into die stove. 
 
 POMEGRANATE CLEAR CAKES. 
 
 Pare some good boiling apples, and put them 
 into a saucepan with as much water as will 
 cover them, set them on the fire, and when 
 perfectly soft, press the pulp through a sieve, 
 and then strain it. Boil diis jelly with the 
 
 juice of two or diree pomegranates, diat of 
 one orange, and one lemon, and the rind of 
 each grated; strain it again, and to every 
 pound of jelly add a pound and a quarter 
 of fine sugar, boiled till it cracks, color it 
 with cochineal; pour it into glasses (taking 
 off die scum before it becomes cold). Set 
 them in a stove, and when the top is dry, 
 turn them out, and put them to dry again; 
 then cut diem into whatever forms you 
 please, put them into the stove or oven to 
 harden, then lay them on sieves, and wlien 
 thoroughly dry, place diem in boxes widi 
 paper between. As they are apt to become 
 moist, diey should be looked at frequently. 
 
 POMEGRANATE JELLY, TRANS- 
 PARENT. Take the seeds from five 
 very fine pomegranates, from which extract 
 the juice by pressing it hard through a 
 horse-hair sieve ; filter this juice and mix it 
 with some sirup tinged of a rose color, will) 
 a little cochineal; add the isinglass to this, 
 and finish as usual. (See Jelly Fruit.) 
 
 POMEGRANATE SIRUP. Take 
 
 five very ripe large pomegranates, extract 
 the seeds (which must be very red) ; crush, 
 and put them into a skillet, with half a 
 pint of water; set diein on the fire till soft, 
 and then squeeze the juice through a new 
 coarse cloth ; clarify a pound and half of 
 sugar, and boil it to souffle, then add die 
 juice, boil them together to the usual con- 
 sistence of simps. It must not be bottled 
 until quite cold. This number of pome- 
 granates will yield a quart of sirup. 
 
 POUPELIN. Put into a saucepan (bur 
 glasses of water, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, die zette of a lemon, and a pinch 
 of fine salt; set it on the fire, and as soon 
 as it begins to boil, take it off, and put in 
 as much sifted flour as will make a paste 
 the consistence of choux, then replace it 
 on the fire, and keep stirring till it dries; 
 make a similar mixture, and when that 
 also is dry, put both into a mortar, with 
 half a pound of powder sugar, an ounce of 
 orange-flowers, and two eggs at a time, un- 
 til five and twenty or thirty are used, by 
 which time the paste will l>e of the proper 
 consistence, then pour it into a lightly but- 
 tered tin; put it into a moderate oven, and 
 leave it. In three hours' time, if die 
 poupelin is of a nice gold color, take it 
 out, cut off die top, and with a spoon re- 
 move all die inside, then set it in die 
 oven to dry. When cold, spread all over 
 the interior apricot marmalade, on which 
 strew sweet macaroons crushed, dien turn 
 it on a dish, and serve.
 
 RAS 
 
 293 
 
 ROS 
 
 Q 
 
 QTINCE CAKES. Pare nml core 
 half ;i dozen quinces, boil tlifin till quite 
 soft ; tlien nib the pulp through a sieve, and 
 strain it; mix this with half a pint of simp 
 of quinces, and the same of simp of barber- 
 ries, and a quarter of a |X)iin<l of line sugar; 
 boil the whole io caste, and then pour it 
 >ll shallow moulds, of any shajx' 
 you please ; Id tin-in cool a little, and then 
 dry them in :i 
 
 ( l\ I N < T. ( ' A K HS TRANSPARENT. 
 Take .1 quart of simp of quinces, and half a 
 pint of the sirup of barberries; set them on 
 il gentle fire, lioi and skim them well; then 
 add tuo p Mini- :ni I a half of I 1 
 keep .-tirring imt il it reaches candy height; 
 then t.ike il off, and when nearly cold, lay 
 il, in any form you please, on tin plates. 
 Drv them in a sto\e. 
 
 K. 
 
 KASl'HF.KKY CAKES. Cat her some 
 raspberries Ix-fore they are <;uite rijie, pick, 
 and lav them in a stove to dry; then Ijeat 
 them in a mortar. Take a pound and 
 quarter of line sugar, clarity and boil it to 
 Caste; then weigh half a pound of rasplx-r- 
 ries, dri* : throw them into tile 
 
 sirup, \\ ith half a s|K>onful of white of egg, 
 beaten in cream; stir it can fully, give it a 
 boil, and pour it in moulds or pap i 
 
 R AS I'l JERRIES OF M ARCH PANE. 
 
 Take a piiimd of marcli|Kinc, the juice of 
 four lemons, a quarter of a pound of rasp- 
 berry jellv, and a little cochineal; mix these 
 
 with a strong wooden spatula ; then 
 add two handfuls of lloiir, and sonn- powdet 
 Fugar: when well worked up, roll them into 
 
 Unit the size of a linger, cut these 
 into dice, roll each into a ball, pinch the 
 top into a |K)int, so a.s to resemble the firm 
 
 lierry: then put them one by one 
 into pa; liich pi ice in a dry 
 
 warm place, for eight or ten days. At the 
 end of that time, put a jxnti >n of .sirup of 
 rasplxTrics, a little cochineal, and a small 
 quantity of powder-sug:ir into a pan; mix 
 
 ether with a s|.-oou, and then throw 
 into it a couple of liandfnls of the raspber- 
 ries; take the pun in both hands, and shake 
 it abniii, so that the rasplx-rrics may Ix- 
 equally covered with tiie red simp; then 
 
 r a la grele on a large .-licet of 
 
 ..read it out a little, and while the 
 raspberries arc wet wiih the sirup, throw 
 25 
 
 them into the sugar; then take the four 
 corners of the paper, shake it about well, 
 by which means the sugar will adhere to 
 the raspberries in all parts, and give them 
 a (xrfect resemblance to the real fruit ; take 
 them out carefully one by one, lay them on 
 paper, and put them in a warm place for 
 some days. These artificial raspberries are 
 of a pleasant flavor, and will keep several 
 years. 
 
 RASPBERRY MARMALADE. Take 
 double tfte weight of raspberriee to that of 
 sugar. Rub the fruit through a sieve, and 
 put the pulp into a saucepan; set it on die 
 fire, and stir till it is reduced to half ; then 
 jKiur on the sugar, previously clarified and 
 boiled to petit boule, stir it well in, put it 
 on the fire, give it a few boils, and then 
 pour it into pots. 
 
 RASPP.ERRIES PRESERVED. Take 
 
 (i\e or six pounds of red, but not loo ripe 
 rasplierries, pick, and put them into a pre- 
 serving pan, with an equal weight of clari- 
 fied sugar, Ixiiled to petit boule; when 
 they have boiled up about a dozen times, 
 skim, and pour the whole into a pan till the 
 next day, then drain the fruit, and put it 
 int. i jars; put to the sirup about two glass- 
 es uf cherry juice, previously strained; boil 
 the sugar to la nappt, and then pour it 
 over the raspljerries ; add afterwards, about 
 a s|x>onful of currant jelly to each pot, and 
 when cold, lay on branJy papers, and tie 
 them down. 
 
 RATAFIA OF FOUR FRUITS. Tak5 
 
 ten pounds of very ripe cherries, two pounds 
 and a half of raspberries, five pounds and a 
 half of red and two pounds of black cur- 
 rant-; pick, and mix these fruits together, 
 press the juice from them, measure it, and 
 for every quart of juice, take half a pound 
 of sugar, and an equal quantity of brandy; 
 dissolve the sugar in the juice, then put in 
 the brandy, a drachm of mace, and two 
 drachms of cloves. Let the whole stand 
 some time, filter, and bottle it. Keep them 
 well corked. 
 
 K< )S ES, CANDIED. Crisp two hand- 
 fills of rose-lcau-s in some clarified sugar, 
 boil them tu fort toitffle, then lake the pan 
 from the fire, pour it on a sieve, let tlie sir- 
 up run from the leaves, nibbing the latter in 
 your hands, then dry them in a sto\e. 15oil 
 your sugar again to' souffle, adding a litUe 
 carmine to color it, have a pi<|ii mould 
 ready, ]M>ur the .-n^ar into it, and put the 
 (lowers on il, push them down lightly with 
 u fork, that they may Ije compleu 
 ed with the sugar; place the mould in a 
 moderate glove or oven for five days, then
 
 SEE 
 
 294 
 
 STR 
 
 drain off the sirup ; lay a sheet of paper on 
 the table, and turn the candy quickly out 
 of the mould. 
 
 ROSES, CONSERVE OF. Boil half 
 a pound of sugar to fort souffle, pour into 
 this sirup the best double-distilled rose 
 water; Iwil it again to fort perle, mix 
 with it a little prepared cochineal or car- 
 mine to color it, and pour your conserve 
 into moulds. 
 
 ROSE RED DROPS. Take a small 
 quantity of red bastard saffron, and a little 
 calcined alum, boil those in some water until 
 it is sufficiently tinged for your purpose ; 
 then filter or strain it through a very close 
 linen cloth; put five or six spoonfuls of sift- 
 ed sugar into the pan, dilute it with the 
 colored water, work it well with the bois a 
 tabeller, and set it over a chafing-dish ; when 
 it begins to boil, add two more spoonfuls 
 of sugar, and having worked it well, per- 
 fume it with some drops of essence of roses, 
 and finish as directed. (See Orange-flow- 
 er Drops.) 
 
 ROSSOLS. Take three-quarters of a 
 pound of picked orange-flowers, a pound 
 of musk roses, six drachms of cinnamon, 
 and two of cloves (lx>th bruised); put them 
 into a cucurbite with three gallons of pure 
 water; on distilling this, it will yield a gal- 
 lon and a half, in which dissolve twelve 
 pounds of fine sugar broken up; add to it 
 an equal quantity of spirit of jessamine, col- 
 or it crimson with cochineal, filter and bot- 
 tle it. 
 
 S. 
 
 SEEDS, SUGARED. These are done 
 in the same manner as sugared almonds. 
 The seeds most generally used for this pur- 
 pose are anise, cummin, and fennel. 
 
 The l>est method of proceeding is as fol- 
 lows: place a small preserving-pan over a 
 charcoal fire, on the side of which have a 
 chafing dish, on which keep a pan with a 
 quantity of sugar boiled to lisse; (this su- 
 gar should be kept quite hot, but not boil- 
 ing) ; on the other side have some fine pow- 
 der. When so far prepared, put your seeds 
 into the pan, and as soon as they begin to 
 heat, pour over them a large spoonful or 
 two of the sirup; stir them alxnit, that all 
 may be thoroughly saturated with it; then 
 sprinkle over it a handful or two of powder, 
 still shaking the pan to make the seeds 
 equally white. When dry, pour on some 
 more simp, then the powder, and continue 
 this alternately until your seeds are suf- 
 
 ficiently largo; thon lay them on a sieve, 
 keep them in a warm place for some days, 
 after which put them into glass bottles. 
 
 SOUFFLE FRANCAIS. Blake a 
 croustade eleven inches in diameter, and 
 three and three-quarters in height ; put 
 round it three sheets of buttered paper, and 
 bake it. 
 
 Take twelve glasses of boiling milk, in 
 which infuse whatever ingredients you may 
 think pro|x-r, such as vanilla, coffee, orange- 
 flowers, kc. (the proportions will be found 
 under the different articles). In the mean- 
 time, wash a pound of rice thoroughly in 
 warm water, then put it into a saucepan 
 of cold water, and when it has Ixiilod a few 
 minutes, strain the rice, and put it with 
 vout infusion into another saucepan, and 
 set it again on the fire; as soon as it boils, 
 place the saucepan on hot ashes, that the 
 rice may burst gradually ; in three-quarters 
 of an hour, add a pound of powder-sugar, 
 three-quartet's of a pound of fresh butter, 
 and a pinch of salt, stir them well in; put 
 fresh hot ashes under the saucepan, that the 
 rice mav be kept constantly simmering for 
 an hour, by which time it ought to be per- 
 fectly soft, and should lie nibbed through a 
 bolting-cloth quickly, like a puree; put this 
 into another saucepan over hot ashes, U> 
 keep it warm. Take sixteen fifgs, sepa- 
 rate the yolks and whites, lx?at the former 
 well, and whisk the latter till nearly firm; 
 then mix the yolks with the rice (taking 
 off the ashes,) ; the preparation ought to lie 
 of the same consistence as a cream palis- 
 siere; add, at first, a quarter, and after- 
 wards the whole of the whites; stir them in 
 as lightly as for biscuit paste; the whole be- 
 ing thoroughly amalgamated, pour it into 
 the croustade, and place it in a moderate 
 oven for two hours and a half; when done, 
 cover a baking tin with red cinders, on 
 which place the souffle the moment it is 
 taken out of the oven; this prevents its 
 falling^ whilst you mask it with powder- 
 sugar, and glaze with the salamander; car- 
 ry it into the* dining-room on a tin, have a 
 dish ready with a napkin folded on it; 
 place the souffle on the dish, and let it be 
 served immediately. Remember that a 
 souffle cannot be served too quickly. 
 
 STRAWBERRY, COMPOTE OF. 
 This is made in the same manner as Rasp- 
 berries, only that the stnuvlxrries do not 
 require being mixed with any other fruit. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CONSERVE. Take 
 some very ripe fresh strawberries, pick, and 
 crush them through a tammy. For every 
 dessert spoonful of juice, allow six ounces 
 of sugar ; boil this to fort perle, take it
 
 SUG 
 
 295 
 
 SUG 
 
 off die fire, and pour in the juire; stir lliem 
 together with a silver spoon, until the con- 
 serve begins to whiten and dry, then pat it 
 into moid U or paper case*. If tin- 
 be too white, add a little carmine to the 
 sirup. 
 
 STRAWBERRY >I \ KCI1I' \ M'.. 
 Take twn pounds of sweet almonds, two 
 (KMiiids and a half of sn;, r ar. anil a pound of 
 picked straw Ix-rries. Heat the almonds to 
 a fine |>aste, and mix them with tin; sun-ir 
 (Ixiiled to petit boule;) crush, ami strain 
 tlw juice i.f tin- tVnit, whicli aild to the al- 
 niiiiii) paste an I simp; stir lli<- mixture well, 
 set it on hot ashes, and continue still ing until 
 tin- pa-le is siilticiciitlv done; this inav 1- 
 prmed li\ laying a piece oo the back \ u.-nr 
 hand; it' it max ! remou-d without its 
 sticking, it is enough; when cold, spread it 
 in i-i- a >lal>, and cut it of any si/.c and shape 
 you think pro|>er. 
 
 \R. TO CI.AKII'V. T 
 
 ir, and biv.ik it into pieces; 
 put into a preserving-pan the whiv of ;m 
 
 .1 glass o( pure spring water; mix 
 them \vell with a whisk, add another i;l ass, 
 Still whipping, until two quarts of w:ler 
 ha\i- li'-eu put in: ulna the pan is lull of 
 froth, throw in the su^:-.r. .in I set it on the 
 fire, U'ing careful to skim it every time the 
 scum rises, which will l>c the case as the 
 
 d> up. After a few Ixiilinus, the 
 sni;.o- will iise so high as to run over the 
 
 the pan, to prevent whicli, throw- 
 on it a little cold water; this will lower it 
 instantly, and giu- time tor the skimming, 
 
 1:11 sh-nild in ver lie taken oil' whilst 
 
 i is bubbling; the cold water stills 
 
 it, and that is tlie moment to skim it. ](<- 
 
 peat this opci alii Hi carel'ullv thn i f.ur 
 
 jena whiti.-h lijlit M-II.II only will 
 
 'i take the pan oil', lay a napkin, 
 netted, o\er a ba.-in, and pour the 
 
 uon:;h it. 
 
 The scum thus taken off, put into a chimi 
 basin; ami when the sugar is clarified, wash 
 the pin and the skimmer with a 
 water, which put to the scum, and set it 
 aside lor more common purposes. 
 
 A U, Different Degree* of Pre- 
 paring. The various pur|xis<* to which 
 applied, require it t<i Ix- in dilTeix-nt 
 'hese are called degree*, and are 
 thirl' i-ii in luimlx-r, called as follow-: 
 
 Petit Lisse, or First Degree. Re- 
 place the clarified -u^ar iii the p:- 
 pan, to lx>il gently, take a drop of it on the 
 thuml), touch it with the tore linger; if, on 
 opening them, it dr.iw.- to a tine tin 
 in breaking, forms two drops on each liu_'i r, 
 it is at the right point. 
 
 Liise, Second Degree. A little more 
 boiling briii.'s it to this |x>int; when the 
 thread will draw further N-l'ore it breaks. 
 
 Petit Perle, Third Degree. At thia 
 point the thread may lie drawn as far aa the 
 spin will open, without hn-akin^. 
 
 Grand Perle, Fourth Degree. Oo 
 still increasing the Ixiiling, little raised balls 
 an- lormed on tlie surface of the.-! j 
 
 Petit Queue de Cockon, Fifth Degree. 
 Take up some of the suijar on a skimmer, 
 and drop it on the rest, when it should form 
 a slanting streak on the .-nrlace. Boil it a 
 little Liimer, and it will reach the 
 
 (trn.ide Queue de Cochon, or Sixth 
 Degree. The streak or tail is now larger. 
 
 Souffle, Seventh Degree. Take out a 
 skimmeifi'l of the siiiiar, blow through it, 
 and small spaiks of sn^-ir will fly from it. 
 
 J'ltit-J'lume, Eighth Degree. The 
 same proof as above; the sparks should be 
 larger and stronger. 
 
 iiraade Plume, Ninth Degree. Take 
 the sugar in the skimmer, as U-tore, give it 
 a shake, and if the sparks are large, and 
 adhere together on rising, it is at the right 
 point. 
 
 Ptlit Botilet, Tenth Degree. Dip 
 your lingers in cold water, and tlien into 
 instantly, and again into the wa- 
 ter, when the sugar will roll into a ball, 
 which will IN- supple when cold. 
 
 (Vros Boulet, Eleventh Degree. At 
 tin- point, the ball or bullet will be harder 
 when cold than at the last. 
 
 Caste, Twelfth Degree. Prove as 
 above; the bullet should crumble between 
 the fingers, and on biting, will stick to the 
 teeth ; at the next [xiint, 
 
 Caramel, Thirteenth Degree, It 
 should snap clean. This point is very diffi- 
 cult to attain, for in increasing the height, 
 the .-ugar is apt to burn; it is better there- 
 fore to try tlie proof \ery fiei|tiently. 
 
 Another caramel is frei|iientK used bv the 
 confectioner, and is of a deep color; it id 
 made by putting a little water to tlie sugar, 
 and Ixiiling it without skimai'm^. or other- 
 \\i-e touching the sugar, till of the lii;ht 
 color, then lake it off and use immediately. 
 
 If, on preparing the sugar, you happen to 
 miss the ri^hl point, add a little cold water, 
 and Ixiil once more. 
 
 Observations. The skimmer should 
 
 never be left in the pi i-scn ing-pan after the 
 
 i lai ilied, nor after tlie scum is re- 
 
 I'H MIV can fnl not to stir or disturb the 
 sugar, as that would cause its diminution. 
 
 lu boiling the sugar (parlii nlai l\ the two 
 linnally rising 
 
 and falling; and on falling, '. 
 the sides of the pan, which the heal i.f the 
 fire would soon burn, and theu-by spoil the
 
 TR1 
 
 296 
 
 VAN 
 
 whole of the sugar ; to avoid this, have by 
 the side of you. a pan of cold water, and a 
 sponge, with which wipe the sides of the 
 pan carefully, the instant after the sugar has 
 fallen. 
 
 SUGAR LIKE SNOW. Blanch a 
 quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, pound 
 them to a yery fine paste in a marble mor- 
 tar, with the whites of four egg?; when 
 perfectly smooth, add a pound of the best 
 lump sugar (in powder), and fiye or six 
 more whites of eggs; stir all together well, 
 until of such consistence that it may be 
 kneaded without adhering to the hands. 
 Divide this preparation into two parts, one 
 of which, tinge of a red color, either with 
 bolus armena, or cochineal, and perfume it 
 with essential oil of roses or bergamot ; 
 leave the other portion of paste white, but 
 flavor it as fullows: grate the rind of two 
 fine sound lemons on a small piece of sugar, 
 scrape off the surface, and when pounded in 
 a small mortar, work it into the uncolored 
 portion <it sugar-paste, then roll it out to about 
 naif an inch in thickness (having previously 
 sprinkled the slab with powder-sugar,) cut 
 it with a tin-paste cutter about two inches 
 diameter; arrange I hem on white paper, 
 which place on a baking tin, and put them 
 into a moderate oven for about three-quar- 
 ters of an hour; proceed in the same manner 
 with the colored paste. When cold, detach 
 them from the paper. 
 
 SUGAR PASTE. Take a pound of 
 flour, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter, a little salt, one 
 egg; mix all together with a little water. 
 This paste may be used for any second- 
 course dish. 
 
 T. 
 
 TABLET OF PATIENCE. Take 
 eight eggs, and whip the whites to a firm 
 snow ; in the meantime have the yolks 
 beaten up with six ounces of powder-sugar; 
 (both these operations should be performed 
 for at least half an hour) ; then mix the two 
 together, add six ounces of sifted flour, and 
 when well incorporated, pour in half a pint 
 of rose or orange-flower water; stir the 
 whole together for some time. Have ready 
 some tin plates, well rubbed with butter; 
 take a funnel that has three or four tubes, 
 fill it with the paste, and push out your 
 tablets; when ihe tin plates are full, put 
 them into a prctly warm oven. When done, 
 take them from the tins whilst hot. 
 
 TRIFLE. (1) Sweeten three pints of 
 
 cream ; add to it half a pint of mountain wine, 
 grate in the rind of a lemon, squee/e in the 
 juice, and grate in half a nutmeg ; whi.-k this 
 up, lay the froth on a large sieve, and the sieve 
 over a dish that has ratafia cakes, maca- 
 roons, sweet almonds, blanched and pound- 
 ed, citron, and can. lied orange-peel, cut into 
 small pieces, some currant jelly, and rasp- 
 berry jam in it, that the liquor may run 
 upon them ; when they are soaked, lay them 
 in the dish you intend to serve in, put on the 
 froth as high as possible, well drained; 
 strew over nonpareils, and stick on little 
 slices of citron, orange, or lemon-peel. 
 
 TRIFLE. (2) Lay some macaroons 
 and ratafia drops over the bottom of your 
 dish, and soak them well with raisin wine, 
 when soaked, pour on them a very rich cold 
 custard. It must stand two or three inches 
 thick ; on that put a layer of raspberry jam, 
 and cover the whole with a very high whip 
 made the preceding day, of rich cream, the 
 whites of two eggs, well lieaten, sugar, lem- 
 on-|>eel, and raisin wine, well l>eat with a 
 whisk. It is best to make it the day before 
 it is wanted, being more solid and better 
 tasted. 
 
 TRIFLE. (3) Put half a pound of maca- 
 roons into a dish, pour over them some white 
 wine, and a pint of custard over that, make 
 a whip, and put on it; garnish according to 
 your fancy. 
 
 V. 
 
 VANILLA CREAM. Take two 
 drachms of vanilla, a quart of milk, the 
 yolks of three eggs, five ounces of sugar, and 
 a pint of cream; teat up the eggs well with 
 the milk, and then add the other ingredients; 
 set the whole on a moderate fine, and stir it 
 constantly with a wooden spoon, till the 
 cream will adhere to it; then strain, and 
 serve it cold. 
 
 VANILLA CREAM, BOLTED. 
 
 Take as much cream as will fill the mould 
 you intend to use, and boil it up a few 
 times, with the proportionate quantities of 
 vanilla and sugar; then let it cool, and if 
 the mould will contain a quart, mix twelve 
 yolks and three whole eggs with the cream, 
 and run it five times through a bolting cloth. 
 Butter the mould, pour the cream into it, 
 and place it in the bain marie, but not too 
 hot ; when the cream is set, which you may 
 know by touching it gently with your finger, 
 turn it on a dish; take the remainder of 
 the cream, stir it over the fire like white
 
 VER 
 
 297 
 
 VIO 
 
 sautr, and as soon as it sticks to the spoon 
 (which must be of wood), take it off, stir it 
 an instant. and then |>our it over the other 
 cream, and serve cold. 
 
 VA.MLLA CREAM WHIPPED. Put 
 a pinch of gum-dragon into a pint of cream, 
 add a BBall qnanttty of orange-flower water, 
 
 powder-sugar to the tate, and a little milk, 
 in which sonic vanilla has lcn boiled, and 
 the milk strained; whip these in 
 with a whisk, until the whole is sufficiently 
 frothed ; then lay il carefully on a dish, in a 
 pyramidal form, and serve it. 
 
 VANILLA CREAM ICE. Whisk the 
 - to a firm froth in a 
 
 preserving pan, pour on tliem the yolks of 
 eight, and a |w>nnd of sifted sugar, whip the 
 whole well with a whisk, and pour in by de- 
 grees two quarts of boiling cream; continue 
 to whip it f.r sonic little time, anil then put 
 it on die lire, with half an ounce of vanilla 
 bruised; still whipping, when it has boiled 
 up three or four times, strain it, and freeze 
 as usual. (See Ice.) 
 
 VANILLA CREAM LIQUEUR. 
 
 Dissolve over the fire two |>oimds ten ounces 
 of broken sugar, in three pints of purified 
 river water; when it has l>iled up once, 
 pour it into a jar, on three drachms of va- 
 nilla, cut in pieces, and half a grain of amber. 
 When quite cold, add three pints of good 
 brandy, co\er the \esnel, and when it has 
 i it with a little pre- 
 pared cochineal ; filter, and bottle the li- 
 queur. Cork the bottles tight, and seal die 
 corks. 
 
 VANILLA STICKS. Take some 
 
 marchpane paste, a quarter of a pound of 
 chocolate, and the same of vanilla; mix 
 ;! into the paste, and then form it 
 into sticks, like the vanilla in its original 
 form; lay them on a sheet of paper, and 
 bake in a slow oven. 
 
 VF.I;|)K. Infuse the rind of three lem- 
 ons and four oranges in two quarts of rum 
 or braixK , fur fun -anil-twenty hours, close- 
 KfftOpped; then s<j'.iee/i: llie juice through 
 a strainer; if the fruit is good, there will U- 
 half a pint, and if there is not so much, make 
 it that; add to il a pound and a quarter of 
 sugar, pour to it three quarts of water, and 
 keep stirring till all the ^u^ar is dissolved; 
 when it is dissolved, stir in the peel and 
 spirits, and then one pint of en], I new milk; 
 pass it through a bag till clear; bottle it. 
 It will keep good for twelve mouths. 
 
 VERJl'ICE. (1) Verjuice is the young, 
 unripe, and sour grape; it is frequently 
 
 used in French cookery, but yery rarely put 
 into English dishes. 
 
 VERJUICE. (2) Take some crab 
 apples when the kernels turn black, lay them 
 in a heap to sweat; then pick them from 
 the stalks and rottenness, beat them to a 
 mash, and press the juice through a bag of 
 coarse hair cloth into a clean vessel; it will 
 be lit for use in a month's time. If inten- 
 ded for white pickles, distil it in a cold still. 
 It may be put into sauces when lemon is 
 wanting. 
 
 VESPETRO. Take half a [xmnd of 
 each of die following seeds: angelica, cori- 
 ander, fennel, and caraway, the rinds of 
 four lemons, and as many oranges, infuse all 
 these in two gallons and a half of the best 
 brandy, close the vessel hermetically. In 
 five days time, distil it in the bain marie 
 alembic, and draw from the alxive ciirautity 
 five quarts of liqueur. Dissolve seven 
 pounds of sugar in a gallon of pure river 
 water ; add this sirup to the liqueur, filter, 
 and bottle it. 
 
 VIOLETS CANDIED. Pick off die 
 
 green stalks from some double violets; boil 
 .-iime sugar to souffle; put in the violets-, 
 and Keep diem in till die sugar again boils 
 to souffle; then nib the sugar against the 
 sides of the pan until it is white; stir all 
 together till the sugar leaves the violets, and 
 (hen sift and dry them. 
 
 VIOLETS TO ROCK CANDY. 
 
 Pick the leaves off die violets; then boil 
 some of the Itest, and finest sugar to souffle, 
 pour it into a candying-pan made of tin, in 
 the firm ofadri|>ping-|>an,ahout three inches 
 deep; then strew die violet leaves as thick 
 as possible on the top, and put it into a hot 
 stove, in which let it remain for ten days; 
 when it is hard candied, break a hole in one 
 corner of it, and drain oil' all die sirup; 
 break it out, and place it in heaps upon a 
 tin to dry in a stove. 
 
 VIOLETS, CONSERVE OF. Take 
 
 a quarter of a |xuind of early violets, picked; 
 bruise them in a mortar; boil two pounds 
 of sugar to casse, take it off, put in the pulp, 
 and mix them togedier over die fire, and 
 when the sugar bubbles up, pour die conserve 
 into the moulds. 
 
 VIOLET DROPS. (1) Take a cer- 
 tain quantity of sirup of violets, which mix 
 with an equal portion of water; use this 
 mixture, and make your drops precisely as 
 directed. You may, if you please, |>erfume 
 it widi oil of violets, but that is not neces- 
 sary, as die sirup, imparts sufficient odour
 
 VIO 
 
 298 
 
 WOR 
 
 VIOLET DROPS. (2) Take the 
 juice of six lemons, mix with it some finely 
 sifted powdered sugar, and two spoonfuls 
 of essence of violets, and color it of a fine 
 blue color; mix the whole well together, 
 and dry it over the fire, the same as all oth- 
 ers, and drop them oft a knife on paper, the 
 usual si/.e of drops ; let them stand till cold, 
 be careful that your mixture is not too thin; 
 when (lie drops are cold, put them into pa- 
 pered boxes. 
 
 VIOLETS, MARMALADE OF. Take 
 three pounds of violets, and four pounds of 
 suifar, put the former into a mortar and 
 bniisc lliem to a pulp; in the meantime boil 
 the sugar to souffle, then add (he flowers; 
 stir them together, add two pounds of apple 
 marmalade, and when it has boiled up a 
 few times, put the marmalade into pots. 
 
 VIOLETS, SIRUP OF. Pound very 
 lightly in a marble mortar, and with a 
 pestle, one pound of picked violets; 
 warm gradually n glass, or earlhenware ves- 
 sel with a small opening, into which put the 
 pounded flowers, and pour over them two 
 pounds of boiling water; dose (he ve^el 
 hermetically, and place it on hot ashes, re- 
 newing them when necessary, to keep up an 
 
 equal temperature for twelve hours; after 
 that time pass the whole through a close 
 cloth, squeezing it well; let it stand for half 
 an hour; then pour it oflFvery carefully, that 
 all the sediment may remain at the bottom; 
 weigh it, and the above quantities will have 
 yielded seventeen ounces; put into a matrass 
 two pounds of cruched sugar with the infu- 
 sion, close the matrass tight, and set it in 
 the bain marie, over a moderate fire ; .-hake 
 it occasionally to accelerate the dissolution 
 of the sugar, and when perfectly dissolved, 
 let the (ire go out and the matrass cool grad- 
 ually. When cold, pour the sirup into 
 bottles. 
 
 W. 
 
 WORMWOOD CREME LIQUEUR. 
 
 Oislil in the hain-nttirie the zests of two 
 oranges, and half a pound of fresh gathered 
 wormwood tops, in a gallon of brandy, 
 which will produce nearly half the quantity 
 of liqueur. Dissolve four pounds of sugar 
 in as many pints of filtered river water; mix 
 tliis sirup with the liqueur; run it through 
 a jelly -bag, and bottle it. 
 
 receipts for Confectionery may be found in the first 
 part of this Book .